# Curvy Oak Kitchen



## JonnyD (2 Jun 2009)

Hi all I have just got around to photographing an Oak kitchen I finished a few months ago. The frames and doors are all in solid european oak apart from the panels of the curved units which are oak veneer on 4 layers of 1.5mm birch ply. Carcasing is Winchester Oak MFC egger board.

Views of kitchen

















Close up details. The kitchen has beaded face frames and the doors hung on butt hinges. The handles are solid pewter.






Close up of curved unit. Drawers are on Blum tandem soft close runners.






Over the other side is a larder/booze storage unit











The kitchen took about 8 weeks to make including installation. 

Cheers

Jon


----------



## Doctor (2 Jun 2009)

Top notch, I'm impressed :lol:


----------



## Karl (2 Jun 2009)

Very nice Jon. 8 weeks looks like good going for that job.

I've used those handles before - did you find that they all had to be re-shaped slightly? On the ones I used, each handle had very slightly differing centres for the screws. Thankfully, Pewter is easily manipulated by hand, so it was just a case of tweaking each one.

Cheers

Karl


----------



## chris_d (2 Jun 2009)

Beautiful - you should be very proud!


----------



## wizer (2 Jun 2009)

mmmmmm I do love curves 

Very pro job there. Love it.


----------



## Paul Chapman (2 Jun 2009)

Lovely work, Jon =D> 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Russ (2 Jun 2009)

That is a very nice kitchen... The build and finish look excellent.


----------



## Sawdust (2 Jun 2009)

Very nice job. I really like it.

Mike


----------



## richburrow (2 Jun 2009)

Real Quality work.
Nice one
Rich


----------



## woodchip (2 Jun 2009)

Absolutely fan-bloody-tastic.

Unfortunately SWMBO thinks so too!

Lovely work.


----------



## JonnyD (2 Jun 2009)

Thanks for the comments guys much appreciated. 

Karl some of the handles were a little misshaped but as you say they are easy to give a tweak to pull them into line.

Jon


----------



## big soft moose (2 Jun 2009)

very nice work - i'll have to hide it from swimbo or get a lot better at woodwork than i am now


----------



## OPJ (2 Jun 2009)

Superb, Jonny!


----------



## BradNaylor (3 Jun 2009)

Excellent work Jonny.

The rate at which you're knocking this stuff out is awesome. I thought I was quick!

Do you work alone or have you got a team of elves there with you?

Very impressive.

Cheers
Brad


----------



## Ross K (3 Jun 2009)

Eight weeks is an amazing turnaround time for a kitchen like that. How many of you worked on it? I did a far lesser kitchen recently and shared the time with another cabinet maker and it took longer than eight weeks. If you say you did it on your own I won't believe you! :wink:


----------



## JonnyD (3 Jun 2009)

Hi Brad / Ross my Dad helps me out in the workshop when required which is pretty much full time :wink: 

Jon


----------



## CWatters (3 Jun 2009)

Very nice work. Particularly like the bead (wrong term?) around the door openings.


----------



## John C (3 Jun 2009)

Jonny D beautiful work can i ask did the internal curved doors cause any problems i cant work out how that door clears the frame. cheers john c


----------



## JonnyD (3 Jun 2009)

John C":3nhk8ofb said:


> Jonny D beautiful work can i ask did the internal curved doors cause any problems i cant work out how that door clears the frame. cheers john c



Hi John the internal doors are a bit of a pain to fit. The external ones arent too bad. To get the door to clear the frame you have to put a large sloping edge on the door as in this pic.






I generally get the top and bottom to fit and then keep planing the edge away until it clears the frame using the jointer and final finishing with a handplane.

Colin I usually call it a bead not sure whether this is technically correct or not.

Jon


----------



## Jake (3 Jun 2009)

Smart work Jonny. How did you do the curved bull-nose along the top - solid spindle-work?


----------



## JonnyD (3 Jun 2009)

Hi jake the top bullnose piece is made on the spindle. The curved parts are made using mdf jigs with a profile block guided by a bearing. You just have to make sure you have some lead in on the template.

The parts are then put together and joined with dominos and pocket screws as the curves are too hard to clamp.

Jon


----------



## motownmartin (3 Jun 2009)

Nice Kitchen Jon, Ilike the way the grain is on all the curved rails, they must have been cut from the same block of wood, I don't suppose you have any WIP pics to show how you acheived all this mavelous work.

If I have any criticisms, I don't like the wardrobe type cupboard, thats just personal taste.


----------



## Fergus (3 Jun 2009)

CWatters":3hqdsajw said:


> Very nice work. Particularly like the bead (wrong term?) around the door openings.



Have to agree -I think the beading really sets it off nicely -lovely work


----------



## jhwbigley (3 Jun 2009)

nice work Jon,

you must have worked all 7 days of each week to turn that out!

got my timber quote yet? 

John-Henry


----------



## John C (3 Jun 2009)

Thanks for the sketch similar to a bar flap then. cheers john c


----------



## Mike Saville (4 Jun 2009)

Really, really nice - love the cabinets.

Tiles and floor not my taste, but I love the standard of the cabinets. 

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Out int shed (4 Jun 2009)

amazing, simply stunning. how did you make the curved oak frame sections? are they cut on a band saw from thick sections or are they steam bent?


----------



## Karl (5 Jun 2009)

JimJam":3dnxr4d8 said:


> Tiles and floor not my taste, but I love the standard of the cabinets.



I think the mundane tiling really detracts from the kitchens appeal. We can see what great work has gone into the kitchen, but I wonder how many potential purchasers wouldn't look twice at it because of the tiling?

Cheers

Karl


----------



## Geno (5 Jun 2009)

Lovely work! The frame beading gives it the extra touch!

What sort of finish have you put on it?


----------



## big soft moose (5 Jun 2009)

Karl":1f7otzb5 said:


> JimJam":1f7otzb5 said:
> 
> 
> > Tiles and floor not my taste, but I love the standard of the cabinets.
> ...



indeed and what were they thinking when they chose that sink ???? none of which detracts from jonnys execlent cabinets - i presume the tiles, sink etc were a client decision


----------



## JonnyD (5 Jun 2009)

The tiles and sink were the clients decision. They are not to my taste but in real life it looks better than the photos.

A few answers for you

John - should have the quote early next week

Geno - the finish is an Acid Catylsed Laquer with a 10% sheen level

Martin - Sorry I havent got any WIP pics of this project

Out in Shed - The curved sections are cut from solid timber. The framing from 52mm stock and the door rails from 80mm stock (expensive stuff). The wood is planed to near final thickness and then the parts are bandsawn out. The pieces are machined on the spindle moulder using a big bearing and straight cutting block.

Bearing and block a bit like a large bearing guided router cutter when assembled







You need jigs for each different radius and for both inside and outside curves. The inside curve is machined first followed by the outside.

One of the jigs






The jig is doublesided so that you can machine the wood from both sides so by flipping the jig over you can always be machining with the grain and you get an excellent finish with no tearout. I have made up an MDF guard for the spindle so there is no chance of losing any fingers.

Jon


----------



## Out int shed (5 Jun 2009)

Amazing.

I have a lot to learn!

Thank you Jonny for the detail.


----------



## rileytoolworks (5 Jun 2009)

Excellent work.
I'd be interested to hear why you make the curved rails out of solid stock?
I laminate them from 2.6mm 'constructional veneers', using a male/female former setup (soon to be replaced with a male only vacuum bagged setup.)
Very impressed with the quality of the joints, particularly the curved doors. Also, I'm VERY impressed that you've got concave doors in a beaded frame. Did a job recently with the same setup and it turned out to be a fookin nightmare to get that one door looking good.
Nice attention to detail, and you got the grain matches spot on, from what I can see. How long have you been at this kind of work?
You must be very proud. And all in 8 weeks!

Adam.


----------



## BradNaylor (5 Jun 2009)

RILEY":z3ue74pm said:


> I'd be interested to hear why you make the curved rails out of solid stock?


 
I too would normally laminate them. My concerns about making them from a lump of solid wood have always been threefold; 

1. Cost of the timber. 

2. Weak spots where the grain runs across the rail. 

3. Unnatural looking figure due to the curved cut not matching the adjacent flat doors. 

You seem to have overcome these concerns and I will have to reappraise my thinking.

I have never attempted curved beaded frames. I'm still trying to work out how you do it!

One of the best projects we've seen here, Jonny.

:lol: 

Brad


----------



## JonnyD (6 Jun 2009)

Hi Brad / Riley I had the same concens about using solid stock rather than laminating. I experimented with laminating the frame components and found that the springback was hard to calculate and the components were moving all the time. I used titebond, Cascamite and epoxy and they all moved to some extent although the epoxy wasnt as bad as the other glues. I was getting Pi***d of with it so I decided to try solid timber and found it a lot more stable and havent had any problems with it and one of the kitchens I have done had 11 curved doors in it.

Riley I would be intersted if you have had any of these problems with laminating. i was using 1.5mm beech in my trials. 

In answers to your question I have been wooodworking for about 15 years. I graduated from a furniture design degree in 97 worked for a few people and started on my own in 2001. I agree the internal curved doors are a bit of a pig to get right.

Brad the curved beaded frames arent that complicated. I mould the stock on the spindle using separate jigs for internal and external curves. The curved component is sized on the table saw with a jig to hold it at the right angle. The 45 degree ends are cut with chamfer cutter in a handheld router and then the bead is put on with a bearing guided router cutter in the router table. The frame is then domino jointed and then assembled with screws to pull the joints tight. Simple  

Jon


----------



## Mailman14 (6 Jun 2009)

I'm so impressed I'm almost in tears!

Well done that man (and helper), and a virtual drink for the effort!
Seriously, if my wife found this site, and this thread, I'd be divorced...

Hmmm, maybe I _should_ show her your work?


----------



## rileytoolworks (6 Jun 2009)

Johnny, in my experience, the frame rails do spring back a little, but once they're jointed and the frame is glued to the carcase, they're going nowhere! 
Brad, this is my process for a curved beaded frame....
Laminate the stock for the frames.
Cut the frame components to length, starting with the verticals. Mark out and cut the joints as usual (using mortar groove cutter and jig - I believe you do the same, unless you've changed to router table mode).
Clamp (I use a Kreg face frame clamp) the rails to the carcase and mark off (using a spacer the same depth as the 'mortise' in your joint - in my case 7.5mm) from the internal carcase side. This will give you your angle for the first cut.
Make this cut however you feel comfortable.
Cut the 45 degree joint (I use a modified donkeys ear shooting board and block plane)
Fit the joint and mark the other side.
Repeat for the other rail.
Up until this point, all the frame members are un-moulded.
Dry fit them to the carcase and blend the frame in (you'll probably have to take the edge off the verticals.
Now disassemble the frame, bead on the router table, reassamble and glue to the carcase.
I can probably joint and fit one frame in the time it took to explain this.
I hope that makes sense.
It probably doesn't though....... :wink:

EDITED FOR SPELLING


----------



## adzeman (10 Jun 2009)

You do not say if this is your kitchen or for a client? This is seriously professional work,
well done.

Regards


----------



## JonnyD (10 Jun 2009)

Hi the kitchen is for a client. I have been planning my own kitchen for about 5 years but havent got round to it yet.

I would like to thank everbody for there interest in this its much appreciated.

Jon


----------



## newt (12 Jun 2009)

Stunning


----------



## Anonymous (12 Jun 2009)

Awesome work!!!!


----------



## ginsters (12 Jun 2009)

very nice,refreshing not to see one done in old white.....


8)


----------



## Dal123 (28 Jan 2010)

Amazing, amazing, amazing. Sorry for the novice question; but I don't understand how the curved cabinets were made. I think that it was said they were machined from a solid piece of wood? That would mean cutting half a tree for just a little cabinet? It's so cool, would love to build something like that. 
What tools would you use to create the curve, as you can tell I know nothing  .


----------



## Sportique (28 Jan 2010)

Jon,

Truly a professional at the top of the tree - lovely clean lines/beads/curves and all fitted so well.

Agree with others that some of the client choices detract from your work - but then they picked up the bill!

Please post more WIPs and jig details in the future.

Good luck for the future

Dave


----------



## superunknown (29 Jan 2010)

Just stunning and an inspiration.


----------



## JonnyD (29 Jan 2010)

Dal123":33cza1yj said:


> Amazing, amazing, amazing. Sorry for the novice question; but I don't understand how the curved cabinets were made. I think that it was said they were machined from a solid piece of wood? That would mean cutting half a tree for just a little cabinet? It's so cool, would love to build something like that.
> What tools would you use to create the curve, as you can tell I know nothing  .



Its not quite a tree cut in half. The bottom and top rails of the curved doors are machined from a solid piece of oak but this is a plank 80mm thick and the curve cut out with a bandsaw. The curve is then machined with a spindle moulder using a template. The inner panel of the curved door is made up from 4 pieces of 1.5mm birch plywood with oak veneers front and back This is made by placing the plywood and veneers over a former. The veneer and ply are then glued and pressed into shape using a vacuum press which is a vinyl bag which the air is sucked out of to press the pieces into shape.

When I next do something similar i will take some pics as its easier to explain with a few pics.

cheers

jon


----------



## billybuntus (29 Jan 2010)

I would like to build a kitchen out of solid oak (bottom cabinets oak, top cabinets in mdf painted (swmbo's idea))

Where do you buy oak from? i.e. can it be supplied in say 4x2 12mm sheets and at what cost?

thanks

ps, very impressive work 8)


----------



## Dal123 (1 Feb 2010)

Wow I had no idea a vacuum press could be powerful enough to bend wood. I remember using a plastic press at school where the heated plastic would be sucked to mould around the mould.
You must have a turbo powered beast and must be very expensive :shock: . Thanks for your knowledge  .


----------



## big soft moose (1 Feb 2010)

billybuntus":h9lx2kdn said:


> Where do you buy oak from? i.e. can it be supplied in say 4x2 12mm sheets and at what cost?



almost certainly not as oak in those dimensions wouldnt be stable - particularly in a humid atmosphere like a kitchen. - you could edgejoint some narrower boards with a biscuit jointer or dom, but imo you might be better off looking at oak veneered mdf for the panels.

i buy my oak from vasterns at wooton basset or ukoak at corby - however these are both a way from you - check out john boddy's.


----------



## Doug B (1 Feb 2010)

billybuntus":264wbti0 said:


> Where do you buy oak from? i.e. can it be supplied in say 4x2 12mm sheets and at what cost?




Oak panels of the size you describe & larger are available,

http://www.smi-hardwoods.com/panels/fj/ ... ointed.htm

As to cost, that as always depends on quantity, your local supplier of sheet material would be the best place to try.


----------



## Dal123 (2 Feb 2010)

Oak panels of the size you describe & larger are available,
http://www.smi-hardwoods.com/panels/fj/ ... ointed.htm
[/quote]
They're not solid oak panels though they are jointed. What is the maximum size of solid lumber of oak you can buy?


----------



## Doug B (2 Feb 2010)

Dal123":d2aaug34 said:


> They're not solid oak panels though they are jointed. What is the maximum size of solid lumber of oak you can buy?



They aren`t one piece Oak panels but they are solid oak. I doubt very much you would get a 2` wide piece of Oak to make a one piece panel from. 
The widest i`ve ever bought is about 13"


----------



## big soft moose (2 Feb 2010)

Doug B":2f1xg4qq said:


> Dal123":2f1xg4qq said:
> 
> 
> > They're not solid oak panels though they are jointed. What is the maximum size of solid lumber of oak you can buy?
> ...



ive got a two foot wide, 3 inch thick oak board which i intend to cut up for turning blanks - with a sufficiently large resaw this could be ripped down into two 1.5 in thick boards wide enough to be single panels - but it wouldnt be a good idea because it would cup like twittery as soon as the differential temp change of the inside/ outside of the cupboard hit it


----------



## billybuntus (3 Feb 2010)

so the side panels and doors are jointed on this kitchen? :shock: how on earth does it not show?


----------



## BigMac (3 Feb 2010)

billybuntus":vp8i4axx said:


> so the side panels and doors are jointed on this kitchen? :shock: how on earth does it not show?



Good craftsmanship (although if you looked closely enough you probably could see).


----------



## Doug B (3 Feb 2010)

big soft moose":6q1b9c4c said:


> but it wouldnt be a good idea because it would cup like twittery




Which is why the panels in the link are made up of smaller sections, more stable, but still a solid panel.


----------

