# Staining Softwood - Advice Needed Please



## OPJ (21 Jan 2009)

Hi guys,

I'm about to begin making a Blanket Chest in pine (Scandinavian Redwood) and it will need to be stained so that it (closely) matches an IKEA Leksvik bed, just like this one:







Pete tells me that a "light oak" stain has been used.

Obviously, there are several different products on the market and, I'm willing to try a few of them... But, I don't much about staining full stop!

Are there particular types of stain (eg. oil-based) which don't work well on softwoods? I presume water and oil-based stains will raise the grain, where a spirt-based stain would not... I'm looking at the Chestnut and Rustins ranges at Axminster.

I'd really appreciate some advice on this.

Olly.


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## Paul Chapman (21 Jan 2009)

Staining softwood is always a bit problematic  I like to use water-based stains because I think they are more flexible in that you can go over them with a damp cloth, after application, and lighten them. They can raise the grain. Go over the piece with a damp cloth first, allow to dry then sand with a very fine abrasive paper. If the grain still rises after applying the stain, simply sand again with very fine abrasive and apply again - often the overall result will be better when you do it this way.

I favour Liberon Pallete wood dye.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul

PS Always test on a scrap piece first :wink:


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## mailee (21 Jan 2009)

I have found that the best way to even out spirit stains on softwood is to apply a 50/50 solution of thinned sanding sealer by cloth before staining. HTH. :wink:


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## Woodfinish Man (22 Jan 2009)

Couldn't agree with mailee anymore - that process works really well.

If you're keen to work with water stain and want to avoid the typical strong absorbtion of softwood (especially on the knots) you could always mix in a 15% clear waterbased coating to the stain. We find that works well to.

Ian


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## OPJ (22 Jan 2009)

Many thanks to all for your thoughts.  

I already have a couple of water-based stains (Chestnut) to try. I'll get hold of some spirt-based ones as well and see what I like. :wink: 

Is the finish from the staining generally good enough to go on? Or, should I be looking to apply a coat or two of wax afterwards?


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## mailee (22 Jan 2009)

Pe.rsonally Olly I would put a coat or two of wax over it, it will be quite flat without. IMHO


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## Paul Chapman (23 Jan 2009)

OPJ":2bpke3v4 said:


> Is the finish from the staining generally good enough to go on? Or, should I be looking to apply a coat or two of wax afterwards?



I would always apply a finish, such as wax, after staining.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (23 Jan 2009)

I think on a job like this which is softwood, I'd stay clear of applied stain. As Paul says, it's awkward to use on softwood (not that I use much anyway) so I think the way I'd go about finishing this is to use a coloured acrylic varnish where the stain is already in the finish, cut back after each coat with some 320g and finish with wax. You'd probably get a much more even application this way - Rob


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## OPJ (23 Jan 2009)

Thanks, Rob. I haven't had much luck with varnishes before but, it is something else to consider. I think the trick is to thin-down the first coat... :wink:


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