# Dovetail Saws



## Alf (1 Feb 2004)

In a galaxy far, far away (well, the General Woodworking board anyway) the following was asked:


Pete W":30ke21js said:


> First question then: handsaws, or more specifically, dovetail saws. I'm hoping to master the art of handcut dovetails but I'm not sure how many I'd be cutting on a regular basis. So, is a dedicated dovetail saw worth the investment?
> 
> Assuming a yes to that one, how much to invest? I've seen a couple of reviews of the Adria saw and it looks lovely but not sure whether it's complete overkill for a novice wood-butcher like myself.



A good question, and not an easy one to answer as far as I can tell. On the one hand, if you've got a useless saw your dovetailing will be made all the more difficult, and you may be put off completely. On the other, when you're starting out you don't want to spend big dosh only to find you've either ruined it or it turns out not to be what you needed after all. One additional problem with these "big bucks" saws is sharpening. Really what you're paying for it that good sharpening job, but saws don't stay sharp forever. So what happens when it needs resharpening? Do you have a good Saw Doctor handy who _actually knows what he's doing_? If he doesn't, your £100 saw could wind up worse than one for a tenner. For instance I finally gave up on my local one when it became clear not only didn't he know there was a difference between rip tooth and X cut (It's just fewer teeth for rip innit?) but he couldn't even count the number of teeth despite me getting out a rule and showing him how (Nah, that's 13 tpi innit, not 17. No such fing as 17 tpi). Thank goodness I found out _before_ I entrusted a good saw to him. :shock: Unless you feel up to learning the art yourself? It's not easy on those fine teeth, so you'd need other, coarser toothed saws to practice on first, files, magnifying equipment, saw vice etc. Trust me, I know this 'cos it's what I ended up doing and I've ruined enough teeth in a year to know what I'm talking about.  It's bad enough on an 80yr old £5 saw, but the thought of sharpening one costing 20 times as much gives me the shakes. :shock: 

So, my opinion :wink: Yes, a dedicated dovetail saw will make a world of difference but it doesn't _have_ to be an expensive option. If you know of a Saw Doc capable of sharpening and setting an expensive saw, then he can do just as good a job on a cheaper one, or an old one. And if you don't, then I think it unwise to spend that £100 if you can't maintain it. I know there are others who disagree with that, and have splashed out regardless, and I daresay Simon will be along in a moment to say why :wink: The Adrias are very nice I must say, and that 1 year money back guarantee Eddie offers shows real faith in the product, but it's an awful lot of money. You'd be a pretty happy chappy though.

Okay, so not much help  but something to think about anyway.

Cheers, Alf


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## Adam (1 Feb 2004)

So as I haven't got time for all that sharpening stuff, can anyone recommend a good saw doctor, whom I could post stuff to for sharpening?

Adam


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## Pete W (1 Feb 2004)

Good point (pun not intended but gladly accepted). I hadn't really thought about the sharpening issue in the context of the Adria. I have bought a couple of bigger hardpoint saws (a 22-incher and a 10-inch tenon) after seeing them recommended in a couple of 'getting started' articles.

I have no idea about saw doctors locally (I'm in west London, a short drive from D&M Tools actually ).

I've seen the Shark Pullsaws recommended for detail work, which I believe are hardpoints and cheap enough (£15-ish) to be disposable I suppose.


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## Newbie_Neil (2 Feb 2004)

Hi Pete

My first port of call would be to D&M they must know of a good saw doctor locally. You could also ask the customers in D&M. :wink: 

Have you thought about Japanese saws? They are not very expensive and will give you an excellent cut. (OK Alf I know when I'm not wanted, I'm away to join Gill in the bunker). :wink: 

Cheers
Neil


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## Alf (2 Feb 2004)

Not a bad idea to ask D&M, but make sure you say it's for a hand saw, not machine blades. Even my moronic Saw Doc can sharpen planer blades adequately.

As for Japanese saws, why not? If you can cope with that type of handle, and find one configured for rip cuts in hardwoods, you're laughing. Just don't expect a dozuki from Axminster to be anything but frustrating when it comes to doing a rip cut. DAMHIKT :evil: I don't have anything against Japanese saws for cross-cutting at all, I use one all the time - with a replacement wewstern style handle though :wink: 

Cheers, Alf


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## Philly (2 Feb 2004)

Pete,
I use the Japanese saws a lot, but they can be frustrating. If you want cut dovetails by hand you can't beat a "classic" western dovetail saw with a big brass back. I have a Pax one I picked up at a car boot sale. Just remove some of the excess set from the blade first with a slipstone.
( or you could spoil yourself rotten and get the Lie-Niesen independence saw and a Rob Cosman dovetail video-that's all you need to excel!)
regards,
Philly


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## Pete W (2 Feb 2004)

Philly wrote: "get the Lie-Niesen independence saw and a Rob Cosman dovetail video-that's all you need"

Interesting definition of "all" you have there . In an ideal world my workshop would be full of Lie-Neilsen and similar kit, but alas reality dictates otherwise.

The good thing about taking so long to get the garage workshop sorted is that I've managed to refrain from investing in expensive handtools and machinery. Didn't seem smart to let them sit in a damp garage for weeks/months.

But I think the budget would stretch to a Japanese-style saw for experimentation .


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## Alf (2 Feb 2004)

Philly":2q0ye9ie said:


> you can't beat a "classic" western dovetail saw with a big brass back.


Oh yes you can. You get one with a steel back and avoid paying the premium for a brass one. :wink: 



Philly":2q0ye9ie said:


> I have a Pax one I picked up at a car boot sale. Just remove some of the excess set from the blade first with a slipstone.


Taking it _very_ slowly, 'cos putting set back is a whole lot trickier than taking it away. :? 



Philly":2q0ye9ie said:


> that's all you need to excel!


<Insert hollow laughter here> :lol: 

Cheers, Alf


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## Midnight (2 Feb 2004)

I started "tooling up" to try hand cut DT's just before christmas. Not knowing which type/marque of saw would suit me best, I tried to cover my bets as best I could, without breaking the bank. I've ended up with a couple of Victor Gents saws, 8" and 10", along with the Victor dovetail saw. Admittedly I've yet to use them to try cutting dovetails, although the gents saws have proven their worth when cutting some real finnicky tennons. In use they felt well balanced, held the line well and cut effortlessly; I've found myself reaching for them more often as my confidence in their capabilities grows. Havent tried the dovetail saw yet though... next chance to practice will be a while away yet... deadlines to meet...

I'll keep you posted though :wink:


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## trevtheturner (3 Feb 2004)

No dovetails yet, Mike?

Never mind - you're obviously a gent! :wink:


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## Philly (3 Feb 2004)

Oh Dear,
When I said "or you could spoil yourself rotten and get the Lie-Nielsen independence saw and a Rob Cosman dovetail video-that's all you need to excel!" I wasn't being smart or snobbish. It was meant half humourously, half serious. I have both (Not A Gloat!) and can now cut dovetails by "hand" the way I want to-the video is spot on and introduces some interesting ideas and concepts. It also shows how to tune a dovetail saw for best performance. 
The L-N saw is a masterpiece and cuts perfectly straight-all you have to do is cut purpendicular (i'm not joking!) Most cheap/nasty/blunt tools do not perform anything like they should. Fine tools do most of the work-when you use the correct tool work goes smoothly. This is part of the problem for woodworkers who are on their own-they have no benchmarks to check their own tools against. An apprentice would see the Master woodworkers tools, how finely they were set up and sharpened and taught how to fettle his to a similar standard. (Most tools today are DIY standard, not fine woodworking standard) When you see tools used correctly it is obvious-not so when you are feeling your way along the road on your own. ( as an example, how many people on this forum have been inspired and taught by Norm Abrams show? Quite a few, i am sure!)
I appreciate everyone wants a shop full of the finest tools, but when starting out you can only afford one at a time, and money is always tight. But if you want to cut fine handcut dovetails you need the correct tools-the same as for any other task
I wish you the best in your exploits,
Philly


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## Alf (3 Feb 2004)

Philly":3iitea7m said:


> This is part of the problem for woodworkers who are on their own-they have no benchmarks to check their own tools against. An apprentice would see the Master woodworkers tools, how finely they were set up and sharpened and taught how to fettle his to a similar standard.


Ain't that the truth. I was reading a pre-war Woodworker annual, and it was sagely advising the apprentice to go with a skilled worker from his workshop just in order to _choose_ his bench planes, never mind tuning them. A modern alternative sometimes recommended to beginners is to buy a Clifton or L-N as their first plane, simply so they'll know what level of tuning they need to aim for in subsequent planes.

On which basis, Pete, you'd better go and get that Adria then eh? :wink: 

Mike, I'm surprised at a L-N fan going for another's DT saw :shock: I'll be interested to hear your opinion of it, once you get to use it. I've tried the Victors out a couple of times at the show now, but I won't say what I thought so as not to influence you :wink: 

Cheers, Alf


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## Midnight (3 Feb 2004)

> No dovetails yet, Mike?
> 
> Never mind - you're obviously a gent!



Patience Trev... patience... I still need to find a half decent set of paring chisels first... and I can't begin to think about that till I've finished planing the 100 board feet of oak and elm I need for the project in progress...
All in good time..
As for being a gent..... sheesh..... I've worked too damn hard maintaining a reputation as a rogue to slip up now..... :wink: 


Alf...
I'll admit... I was seriously tempted to go for the L-N... but you know how it is around christmas... the visa card was looking pretty bruised as it was.. I'll give the Victor a try... if it works, all fair and well... if not, it's not too much to write off to experience.... damn site cheaper than that Stanley #7 I tell ya...


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## Pete W (3 Feb 2004)

Philly":3bsq56ma said:


> Oh Dear,
> When I said "or you could spoil yourself rotten and get the Lie-Nielsen independence saw and a Rob Cosman dovetail video-that's all you need to excel!" I wasn't being smart or snobbish. It was meant half humourously, half serious.



Don't worry - those are precisely the proportions in which I took it .

And I take your other comments to heart, too. The trouble is, as a complete beginner you (I, one) needs not a tool but a basic toolkit - saws, chisels, planes, measuring and marking gear, clamps (never thought about clamps before I started reading in earnest).

My plan - in the first stages of execution - is to buy that basic toolkit, make my mistakes, learn as I go, and replace the low-cost stuff a piece at a time as I go forward. I understand the wisdom of buying quality, and fully intend to. When my bank manager allows .


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## Philly (4 Feb 2004)

Pete,
Good idea mate- Get a nice basic tool kit and then build from there. Only advice I would offer is this-cheap, rubbish tools are not a bargain. It's worth paying a couple of quid more for better tools and getting a load of cheap ones. Build it up one at a time and learn to appreciate the finer points of each tool. ( i recommend David Charlesworth's books for tuning up hand tools)
regards,
Philly


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## Adam (4 Feb 2004)

Better still, buy ones cheap at a car-boot-sale, and you'll have great quality items, without the cost!

I got 4 really nice boxwood handled chisels last week for £4/each.

Sharpened them last night and they are really superb.


Adam


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## dedee (4 Feb 2004)

Quote taken from Asleitch in an earlier thread on Dovetail Saws.

_So as I haven't got time for all that sharpening stuff, can anyone recommend a good saw doctor, whom I could post stuff to for sharpening? _

I tried to find a local saw doctor in my area (SE London, NW Kent) and failed. This was the summer of 2002 I spoke to 

1) local tool shops who could only recommend big machine shops who sharpen machine tool blades.

2) Local furniture makers who do no not send out but sharpen their own.

3) I wrote to Furniture & Cabinet Making ( and got my letter published as their "star" letter) but they could only recommend books by their own publishers and a chap down in Sussex who when I rang no longer sharpened saws.

So I gave up. I have a fine tooth Disston circa 1920 (grandfather's) that I was not about to sharpen myself and I ceratinly was not going to have shapened by machine. It is still unsharpened as a result.

Instead I used the Brimarc vouchers from the Star letter in F&C to buy a Veritas dovetail saw guide and I bought a Ryoba from APTC. The combination has produced some excellent DTs. The ryoba is probably too flexible for use without the saw guide so I have Dozuki on my wish list for use when I attempt my next lot of DTs free hand.

I am no expert but these saws are sharp, easy to use (once you are used to the pull stroke action and probably cheaper than having a specialst DT saw shapened.

I'd happily post my Disston to a recomended saw doctor anywhere in the UK. Anyone know of one?

AndyP


[/i]


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## Adam (4 Feb 2004)

This is where I would have _expected _ALF to say......"yes, I recommend XXXXXXX". "This is the recommendation on the Galoots mail list that circulates all the time....."

As our newest moderator, and #1 galoot, I'm sure she ought to be able to track that information down eh? ALF?

The challenge is set...... :lol: :shock:  :wink: 

Adam


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## Adam (4 Feb 2004)

ALF, 

Actually it occurs to me, can you ask this question on our behalf on the Galoots message board - and also didn't you point me in the direction of a hand-tools forum once upon a time?

Adam


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## Adam (4 Feb 2004)

And I'll ask my local shops, to do my bit.

Adam


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## Alf (4 Feb 2004)

Hang on, what am I supposed to know? A saw doc? Now would I have taken on the task of learning this arcane art myself if I knew of one? :shock: Would I? Of course not.  Andy P was my one best hope! The one the galoots recommend is Tom Law, but he's in the States of course. Plus, as someone pointed out, he won't be around forever, so you're better off learning how to do it yourself. For a start it'll keep the art alive :wink: I've managed to sharpen up to 15ppi sucessfully, as long as the teeth are in reasonable condition and don't need re-shaping. On my Tuit list is re-cutting the teeth of a saw I managed to foul up 'cos it needed re-shaping _and_ was a mere 17ppi :shock: , but I'm still waiting on the appropriate hacksaw blade to use as a file guide. 

If anyone fancies taking the risk (well I'm willing to sharpen my own saws, some of which are probably near 100yrs old, so if *I'm* willing to risk it... :wink: ), I don't mind having a crack at it for small renummeration (to cover file expense mainly; they're blooming pricy  ). I do also have a couple of saws likely to be going spare, once I can decide which of 4 is going to be my "go to" dovetail saw. Maybe which 2 of 4 then...  If anyone's interested, ping me a PM by all means, fwiw.

Er, hand tools fora. There's one on Wood Central, Sawmill Creek and the Traditional Tools forum. The Porch of course, and here.  There's a couple of others too, but they're so quiet as to be null and void.

Cheers, Alf

P.S. I have a strong feeling that David Charlesworth recently (?) said he'd managed to track down someone. If I can remember to, I'll email him and ask.


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## Adam (4 Feb 2004)

Alf said:


> Hang on, what am I supposed to know? A saw doc?
> 
> >well, I'd expect any self-confessed Galoot to know at least _one_?
> 
> ...


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## dedee (4 Feb 2004)

I sent an email to DC during my quest. It was he that recommended sending a letter to F&C.

It does seem to me that there is a market there somewhere.

AndyP


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## Alf (4 Feb 2004)

Andy,

Yep, I remember that. But I have this feeling he reported sucess after that. I might have a wizz through the back issues of F&C and see if I can find it.

Cheers, Alf

Who did seriously consider tapping said market for a brief moment, but is still waiting on a saw tooth re-cutter to turn up at the boot sale... :wink:


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## Pete W (4 Feb 2004)

For those that don't have it

http://www.vintagesaws.com/

is an excellent site with everything you might want to know about saws (except where to find a UK sawdoctor!). Click on the 'Library' link and there are several good introductory articles on what to look for in a saw, how to clean up an old saw, and sharpening for beginners. I've never seen anything else this useful in more than six months' worth of magazine and book reading.

Unfortunately, I don't have an old saw to try this on. I'm only aware of one local carboot sale; it's only on once a month and so far have managed to miss every one since I first received the advise about buying old tools. But I reckon I'll give it a go when I have something suitably unsharp .


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## Adam (4 Feb 2004)

Alf":4f4ruf41 said:



> Who did seriously consider tapping said market for a brief moment, but is still waiting on a saw tooth re-cutter to turn up at the boot sale... :wink:



WHooa, whats one of those? Photo please? So I can be on the lookout


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## Alf (5 Feb 2004)

Sorry Adam, can't find a pic anywhere  There's an outfit in the US of A that makes p*w*r*d ones still, and the principle's the same. See threads here and here for a vague-ish idea. I don't really ever expect to find one, at least not with all the parts required to make it work.

Pete, that's the very site I learnt my sharpening from. Mainly anyway. 

Cheers, Alf


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## Adam (5 Feb 2004)

http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/foleyfiler.html

Adam


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## Alf (5 Feb 2004)

Ah, but that's a *filer*, not a *recutter*. Different, allbeit related, animal. Viz, from that very page:

"The success of automatic filing depends entirely on the perfect regulation of saw teeth. In other words, the teeth must be evenly spaced because the filer doesn't control the spacing of the teeth. The opposite is true: The filer is controlled by the spacing of the teeth that are already on the saw. Unevenly spaced teeth make the file skip to the wrong tooth or land on top of a tooth, resulting in a messed-up saw. 

Poorly regulated saw teeth are jointed down and new teeth are stamped out with a separate machine called a saw toother. They turn up on ebay and in other auctions all the time, but usually don't have the guides that control the number of teeth or points per inch. A toother is pretty much useless without them, and they sell cheap because of it." 

Keep up at the back there, Adam... :wink: 

Cheers, Alf


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## Adam (5 Feb 2004)

Isn't a filer what we all need? How many people recut frmo scratch? Or am I missing the point still? It's hard to see when you're so far from the leaders :? 

Adam


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## Alf (5 Feb 2004)

Hmm, can we go back to talking about shiny tools now? :? Oh all right then...  

If everybody had their saws sharpened exactly when they needed to be and didn't wait until half the teeth were practically invisible, you wouldn't need to re-cut (I dunno how people manage that, but my brother's one of them  ). If no-one ever hand-filed their saws, with the inevitable bias to one side or another that will certainly ensue, you wouldn't need to re-cut (although I agree with the argument that the irregularity of a hand-filed saw gives a smoother sawing experience, just like with a hand-cut rasp, so I don't believe it's an option to do that). If nobody ever dropped their saw or otherwise broke off one or more teeth, you wouldn't need to re-cut (hands up who _hasn't_ found a nail or screw in a piece of wood with that well known detection device, "a saw" :lol: ). If everyone had exactly the tooth configuration they wanted and never decided "I really like this Spear and Jackon back saw, but I want 12 ppi not 10", you wouldn't need to re-cut. If mis-guided sellers didn't file down all the teeth on a saw because "it was dangerous", you wouldn't need to re-cut (true story :shock: ).

So yes, you could argue it's totally unrequired and a waste of space. :wink: But, you can bet your bottom dollar that if you set yourself up as a Saw Doctor hand-filing hand saws, 75% of them would probably require major tooth restoration and doing that by hand in large numbers is a situation of nightmare proportions. 

Any clearer, or have I merely muddied the waters? :?  

Cheers, Alf


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## dedee (5 Feb 2004)

Alf

_If everybody had their saws sharpened exactly when they needed to be and didn't wait until half the teeth were practically invisible, you wouldn't need to re-cut (I dunno how people manage that, but my brother's one of them )."

Ah ha. This implies your brother has his saws sharpened. Where oh where? javascript:emoticon(':lol:')

How do you get those neat little white boxes with a previuos posters comments to come in your replies.

AndyP_


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## Adam (5 Feb 2004)

I can nearly see through all the gloop. Blimey, perhaps my saws are in tip-top condition after all. I don't think I'll be needing that saw doctor! All my saws seem to have all the teeth, I haven't ever considered having a different number of TPI than what they come with, etc etc.

Adam


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## Adam (5 Feb 2004)

dedee":1upvavnf said:


> Alf
> 
> _If everybody had their saws sharpened exactly when they needed to be and didn't wait until half the teeth were practically invisible, you wouldn't need to re-cut (I dunno how people manage that, but my brother's one of them )."
> 
> ...



Every message has a "quote" button on the top right, when you press it, it bring you up into a reply with the entire message, if you want multiple boxes, you have to surround each bit of message with new quote and /quote



asleitch":1upvavnf said:


> Like this.....






ALF":1upvavnf said:


> or this.....


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## Alf (5 Feb 2004)

asleitch":3q2rtz37 said:


> ALF":3q2rtz37 said:
> 
> 
> > or this.....



I don't think I said that did I...? :? :lol: 

Andy, my brother has _his_ saws sharpened by the simple task of bringing them to me and saying "can you sharpen this by Friday?". It worked the first time, but I've learnt my lesson now and _will not_ be sharpening that ghastly S&J "Black Prince" ever again :evil: However, the nice 12" brass-backed tenon saw I gave him for his birthday is another matter; I'll actively encourage him to give it to me to sharpen _before_ he starts eliminating the teeth!

Adam, they may have all their teeth, but are they sharp? :wink: 

Cheers, Alf


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## Adam (5 Feb 2004)

Seemed sharp enough last night as I cut slots in the oak tenons for the walnut wedges  

Adam

Whos making projects not sharpening saws. Ouch. :roll:... :twisted: 


> > asleitch wrote:
> >
> >
> > > ALF wrote:
> ...


 :wink: 
Adam


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## Alf (5 Feb 2004)

asleitch":29wbr7dz said:


> Whos making projects not sharpening saws. Ouch. :roll:... :twisted:


Lucky you. I'm not even sharpening saws at the moment  



> Adam":29wbr7dz said:
> 
> 
> > > > asleitch wrote:
> ...



Adrift in a sea of quotes, Alf :lol: 



> Shall we call it quits now?


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## Adam (5 Feb 2004)

Alf":yokr11wr said:


> Lucky you. I'm not even sharpening saws at the moment



Whats up? 

Adam


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## Alf (6 Feb 2004)

The sky, birds, clouds... Lots of clouds  Where's the sun got to these days anyway? On its hols? :evil: 

Just "real" life getting in the way, nothing serious. 8) 

Cheers, Alf

Putting up self portraits all over the workshop so the tools won't forget me...


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## Alf (7 Feb 2004)

Okay, I heard back from David Charlesworth, and he suggested the following (none from personal experience btw):

"The saw doctor problem is not easy. High Wycombe has good college and I believe that the big store there has access to a good saw doctor.
Can't remember the name of the store.......
Paul Richardson suggested CRM saw co Ltd, 17 arnside rd, waterlooville, hants 023 922 63202.
or a.a.smith, shoreham. 01273 461 707.
Another recommended by an ex student in somerset, perhaps the best?
Davenport western 01 935 425 311"

Whether the last one is the best due to ability or location I'm not sure. I think the store in High Wycombe could be Isaac Lord? Anyway, FWIW and don't say I didn't make an effort :wink: Actually I did wonder if anyone had ever asked Tilgear, Axminster or Mike Hancock at Classic Tools, bearing in mind they all sell these high-end saws they must surely be able to suggest someone? Adam? One for you now? :wink: 

Cheers, Alf


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## Adam (9 Feb 2004)

A. A. Smith Ltd 

SAW BLADES FOR DISCERNING USERS

A. A. Smith, established in 1952, supplies and services bandsaw blades, circular saw blades and cutters for woodworking, engineering, other industries, hobby and DIY use. 

We offer a postal or carrier service throughout the UK.

63 Brighton Road, Shoreham-by-Sea, West Sussex, BN43 6RE 

Tel: 01273 461707 - Fax 01273 441684

Internet: www.aasmith.co.uk
Email: [email protected] 

1952? Sounds promising.

Adam


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## Alf (9 Feb 2004)

Hmm, no mention of hand saws... Slightly less promising  It's all the hardpoint saws' fault, curse them :evil: 

Cheers, Alf

With a such a mindset as to think 1952 rather a newcomer on the sharpening scene...


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## Adam (9 Feb 2004)

I did a Kelly search which threw up the following - a few we seen already, AA Smith, Western Davenport, and the NLS people I added to the bandsaw thread are in there, but they mostly seem to be bandsaw/TCT re-grinders....

Kellysearch for Saw Services, Sharpening or Maintenance or Repair - UK

C R M Saw Co. Ltd, Waterlooville, Hants, United Kingdom
Woodworking machine merchants

N L S Tools (North London Saw Works Ltd), Waltham Cross, Herts, United Kingdom

Rivers Machinery Ltd, Southampton, United Kingdom
Suppliers to the UK manufacturing industry of top quality machine tools & plant, including equipment for sawing & cutting off, storage, tube manufacture, tube bending & endforming, forging, milling & drilling, water-jet cutting & aluminium processing. Rivers Support Services provides after sales solutions to suit all customers

The Saw Centre Ltd, Glasgow, United Kingdom
Woodworking, metal working machinery, UPVC machinery sales, machinery servicing, saw sharpening & power tools online

A A Smith Ltd, Shoreham-by-Sea, W. Sussex, United Kingdom
Blade suppliers & saw doctors

David Adams & Sons Ltd, Cradley Heath, W. Midlands, United Kingdom
Saw sharpening services

Advanced Tool Technology Ltd, Bolton, United Kingdom
Metal cutting & sawing machines & saw blade sharpening

Apollo Holdings Ltd, London, United Kingdom
Industrial saws & cutting tools

Apollo Multiform Ltd, London, United Kingdom
Saw sharpening services

Atkins Saws, Solihull, W. Midlands, United Kingdom
Saw sharpening services

B A W O Services Ltd, Stourbridge, W. Midlands, United Kingdom
Circular & meatal saw manufacturing/ngineering/servicing (sharpening/m

Bandsaw Service Ltd, Windsor, Berkshire, United Kingdom
Saw distributors, services & sharpening

Ernest Bennett & Co. (Darlington) Ltd, Darlington, Co. Durham, United Kingdom
Industrial sawblade & cutting tool manufacturers 

C D J Saws Ltd, Cannock, Staffs, United Kingdom
Saw sharpening specialists

C & G Cutters & Grinding Ltd, Blackburn, United Kingdom
Machining & grinding services CNC

Canaan Carbides Ltd, Evesham, Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Tile cutter manufacturers. Paper cutting guillotining services & saw distributors & sharpening services

Cepstra (UK) Ltd, High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, United Kingdom
Condition monitoring systems distributors

Columbia Saw Works Ltd, London, United Kingdom
Saw services & blade manufacturers

E. Crowley & Son Ltd, Basildon, Essex, United Kingdom
Tungsten carbide tipped saw manufacturers

Cutter Grinding Services, Luton, United Kingdom
Cutter grinding specialists

Davenport Western Ltd, Yeovil, Somerset, United Kingdom
Saw services & manufacturers

East Midlands Saw Service, Sheffield, United Kingdom
Saw sharpening & bandsaw specialists

East Midlands Saw & Tool Co. Ltd, Nottingham, United Kingdom
Saw & tool suppliers

European Saw Services Ltd, Sheffield, United Kingdom
Saw blade supply & service

Fermid Ltd, Warley, W. Midlands, United Kingdom
Metal sawing & saw services

Five Star Saw Service Ltd, Birmingham, United Kingdom
Saw repair services

Fourway Bandsaw Servicing Ltd, Cannock, Staffordshire, United Kingdom
Bandsaw services

Gelmic Machine Tools Ltd, Luton, United Kingdom
Sawblade regrinding, new blades, lubricants & machines

H & G Engineers, Milton Keynes, United Kingdom
Saw sharpening services

Hamilton Edge Tools Ltd, Cwmbran, Gwent, United Kingdom
Saw & cutter sharpening

Haydens, Braintree, Essex, United Kingdom
Saw sharpening sales, services & repairs

Heath Saw & Cutter Repairs, Ware, Herts, United Kingdom
Machine suppliers & saw manufacturers

Hilbark Saw Services, Warley, W. Midlands, United Kingdom
Bend saw servicing & suppliers

Sue Hopton Saw Distributors, Gloucester, United Kingdom
Saw sharpening service & sales

Sue Hopton Saw Sharpening Services, Gloucester, United Kingdom
Saw sharpening

Howarth Industrial Saws Ltd, Keighley, West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Engineering

Huddersfield Saw & Tool Co., Huddersfield, United Kingdom
Woodworking machines & chain saws suppliers

M.& E. James, Bilston, W. Midlands, United Kingdom
Gearbox reconditioners

Leicester Saw Blades Ltd, Leicester, United Kingdom
Saw repairers & manufacturers

North Shields Grinding, North Shields, Tyne & Wear, United Kingdom
Saw/blade sharpening & repairs

Northern Saw Services, North Shields, Tyne & Wear, United Kingdom
Saw sharpening services

Radical Saw Ltd, Lincoln, United Kingdom
Saw & tool manufacturers

Saw Specialists Ltd, Sheffield, United Kingdom
Saw services, sharpening, maintenance & repair

South East Saws Services Ltd, Rainham, Essex, United Kingdom
Sharpening & manufacturing of tools

South Eastern Saws (Industrial) Ltd, Maidstone, Kent, United Kingdom
Industrial tooling sales & service

South Midland Saw Co. Ltd, High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, United Kingdom
Circular saws

Southern Counties Saw Co. Ltd, High Wycombe, Bucks, United Kingdom
Saw repairers

Spear & Jackson International Ltd, Sheffield, United Kingdom
Saw blade maintenance/repair equipment manufacturers

Stevens Saw & Tool Services, Worcester, United Kingdom
Saw sharpening

Supersharp Saw Service, Mitcham, Surrey, United Kingdom
Tool grinders

Gillard Services Ltd, Wokingham, Berks, United Kingdom
Industrial grinding

H. Todd & Son Ltd, Burnley, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Woodwork

R. & D. Waller Saw Mills Ltd, Norwich, United Kingdom
Saw mill

Western Saw Services, Salford, United Kingdom
Saw sharpening services

W. Wilkinson (Sawmakers) Ltd, Newcastle upon Tyne, United Kingdom
Saw sharpening services & manufacturers

E. Witten & Sons, Shoreham-by-Sea, W. Sussex, United Kingdom
Saw & cutter sharpening services

Woods Group Ltd, Bolton, United Kingdom
Saw makers & repairers

Carbide Services, Liverpool, United Kingdom


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## dedee (9 Feb 2004)

I contacted Isaac Lord who do not offer a service but recomended Southern Counties. I am awaiting a reply from them.

I am not at all sure that I would be happy to part with my 100 year old Disston to a machine usually used to cut or regrind industrial saw blades as I suspect is the case with most on Adam's list.

My memory is not the best but I am pretty sure that AA Smith might have been the Susex outfit that F&C mentioned when I did my earlier serach, if so then they no longer do (or did) a hand saw sharpening service. I have just sent them a email. I'll let you know.

AndyP


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## Adam (9 Feb 2004)

I've contacted AA Smith by email also - so we shall see if they suggest anything.
Adam


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## Pete W (9 Feb 2004)

I picked up the llatest issue of Traditional Woodworking at the weekend, and it has an interesting article about saw sharpening. Hard for a novice like me to judge the level of skill involved but in theory (ho-ho) it all sounds relatively straightforward - if you can acquire the tools.

It also commits the crime of suggesting you hand over to a saw doctor for some tasks without even a mention of the scarcity of said experts!


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## Adam (4 Mar 2004)

At the recommendation of a local cabinet maker, I added a a tenon saw into his recent batch of stuff for resharpening (which reminds me I must owe him some money). Anyway, I sent my worst saw along which is in a complete state, (just in case) and they've done a marvellous job. Really pleased. It's quite a fine TPI, so I was pleased with the result.

I didn't speak to them in person, so have no "feeling" for their level of competence, I can only recommend on the basis of A) My local cabinet maker who says they are good and B) A successful resharpening of my tenon saw. 

Adam

The details are:

Sawrite Co.Ltd 
Unit 12, Thorgate Rd Wick 
Littlehampton West Sussex 
BN17 7LU 

Tel: 01903 738630


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## Anonymous (6 Mar 2004)

OK, so I'm obviously biased, but how about giving a Japanese disposable blade dozuki a try. I'm still kind of lusting after a beautiful western saw like a Pax, but not having the easy access I got a cheap dozuki and think it's pretty good, now that I've figured out some of it's idiosycrasies. Finding a grip on the stick (OK, call it a handle if you must) that works seems to be the main challenge, which for me is near the end with my index finger along the handle itself. The saw seems to appreciate having the blade pressed very gently to the left when the cut's started to run - gets rid of any wobble, and doesn't change the cut direction. Going to forget how to use a push saw at this rate. I even fitted a new blade in my fret saw the "wrong way round" without thinking!


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## chiba (6 Mar 2004)

Bah! Forgot to log in. Read "Chiba" for "Guest" above...


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