# A tip off a USA forum



## Bryan Bennett (30 Jan 2013)

I do a lot of pierced projects and use double sided tape,but when you have cut it out it takes quite a time to take of the bits of pattern left on the wood.On a forum in the states it suggested putting masking tape on first then put the doubled sided tape on top of the masking tape.IT WORKS this morning I finished cutting a door number plaque for my daughter and put masking tape on first and all the tape came off easy.

Bryan


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## Waka (30 Jan 2013)

I did start to, use clear tape on my projects, but found it was a pain to remove the pattern on completion, hence I stopped using tape.
I'm not really clear what the advantages of using tape are, perhaps you could enlighten me?


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## Bryan Bennett (30 Jan 2013)

Hi Waka when I start a project now,I will sand the wood down then put masking tape on the wood covering it,then put double sided tape over then put the pattern on top of the double sided tape.Then I will wrap clear adhesive all round the lot like a parcel .Waka you say why use clear tape 1 you can see through it,2 keeps the wood clean,3 important of all creates less friction with the scroll saw table.I hope that this will make it more clear.

Bryan


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## Waka (30 Jan 2013)

Bryan

Thanks for the explanation, I did understand the reason for using clear tape, I guess I wasn't sure why using tape at all helped, but the explanation of reduced friction is clear.
In the past I've used spray glue to attach the pattern to the wood, now I'll give your suggestion a go and see how I get on.


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## Geoffrey (30 Jan 2013)

Hi Reduced Friction sounds good don't even think Lubrication :evil:

Geoff. :lol:


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## NewWood80 (30 Jan 2013)

Hey folks, I found that using spray mount used to leave some residue on the wood which I couldn't get rid of, I found on an American scrollers blog about using stickers/address labels, so I thought I'd give it a go. I went on eBay, purchased some A4 blank address labels, printed my pattern onto a sheet, Stuck it down on the wood, covered it in clear tape, which helps lubricate the blade also and did my cutting. Once complete using a hair drier to warn the surface I pealed back the pattern/label and it was great. It came away easily and didn't leave any stains/residue whatsoever. Was the best thing ever. 

It's deffinatly worth a try.

James


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## Gary Morris (30 Jan 2013)

Neat, will use that when I start my intarsia

Gary


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## Wilder (30 Jan 2013)

I'm with Bryan! I used to just use spray mount but found that it could be difficult to get the patterns off, and it often left a residue, especially on MDF. I now cover the surface in masking tape before using the spray mount and patterns come off clean as a whistle.

Like the address label idea, though! Even though the labels are likely to be quite expensive over here so is spray glue, so I might give it a go. It should save time, too.


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## boysie39 (31 Jan 2013)

Great tips folks just what a newbie needs .Hadn't heard of the double sided tape before so more info. to try out . Thank you all .


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## Geoffrey (31 Jan 2013)

Hi i used to use spray mount and its fine if spray mount & cut if you leave it becomes permanent.and hard to remove.
i now use A4 size Multi-purpose labels made by Q-connect 100 in a box and will fit inkjet & copiers if want a small pattern i just fill it up with 
small patterns for stock so as not to waste the all the sheet .

Geoff.


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## Gary Morris (31 Jan 2013)

It would be pretty neat if we could print the outline pattern directly onto the sticky label, or do you guys already do this - bit beffuddled this morning 

Gary


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## Gill (31 Jan 2013)

This is an interesting development in scroll saw techniques and I'm not sure it is an improvement on conventional methods. For years I have applied low-tack masking tape to the surface of the workpiece and applied the pattern on top of that using a spray mount adhesive. So long as the masking tape isn't left in place for several days I have always found it easy to peel away. Sometimes I don't bother with the masking tape (I normally tend to use it for compound cuts and thicker or stacked workpieces) and simply use _removable_ spray mount adhesive to apply the pattern directly to the workpiece.

In the rare event that any traces of adhesive are left behind, a dab of white spirit removes them quickly and completely. If a pattern should become stuck directly to the workpiece, white spirit will penetrate it and the pattern can be rubbed off.


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## Geoffrey (2 Feb 2013)

Hi Gill just a Lazy quick way of doing it i still use Masking tape and spray mount on some things mosts times not.
I think the new generation of scroll blades are Better clean faster cutting like pmt eeeeerrr :shock: ultra pg fd ultra fix lots of new ones.
Cant beat yellow label in my opinion :roll:

Geoff.


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## Geoffrey (2 Feb 2013)

Gary Morris":2eg98tr3 said:


> It would be pretty neat if we could print the outline pattern directly onto the sticky label, or do you guys already do this - bit beffuddled this morning
> 
> Gary


Hi Gary you can print directly to printer peel & stick easy i like easy 8)
Geoff


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## trsleigh (7 Feb 2013)

I've been experimenting lately with ironing on the pattern from a laser print. Works quite well for smaller items but you need to remember that you gat a mirror image so if the item is handed you need to print the pattern as a mirror image in the first place.
I get best results from setting the printer to print transparencies, probably because afaik the fuser temperature is lower so the toner is less well fused into the paper.


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## StevieB (7 Feb 2013)

Somewhat related, but when cutting jigsaw, and in particular figurals within them, it would be handy to print these onto a paper that has a minimal tackiness to it - think of post-it-note level of stick but across either an entire sheet or that level of tackiness to a sheet of labels. These could then be stuck to the jigsaw, cut round and then peeled off without damaging the image. Is anyone aware of any sheets with this low level of stickiness?

As for packing tape giving increased lubrication - never found this to be necessary personally, although I do cut at a lower speed than most people seem to. I also tend to use fine blades so it may be that there is more of a requirement for the thicker blades.

Steve


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