# Chest of drawers?



## Dibs-h (11 Jan 2012)

Now that I have a workshop, Wifey wants a chest of drawers for Son#1. 

Was thinking MDF and painted. No show piece - just plain and functional. Have domino!

Any ideas on the construction - haven't got round to digging my books out, but admittedly they all mention traditional construction techniques. :shock: 

Any ideas\thoughts? Initial thoughts are 2 large at the bottom and 2 smaller at the top, 3 rows tall.

Cheers

Dibs


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## mailee (12 Jan 2012)

Yep, as Bob instructed me, just build a box with your domino and screw commercial runners to the sides, easy. I used to make them the traditional way with drawer frames but this was too time consuming for MDF. I still make dovetailed drawer boxes in pine though.


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## sometimewoodworker (12 Jan 2012)

Dibs-h":eo4n3ssz said:


> Now that I have a workshop, Wifey wants a chest of drawers for Son#1.
> 
> Was thinking MDF and painted. No show piece - just plain and functional. Have domino!
> 
> ...


To look good you want the draw hight all to be different. With your 3 rows think goldilocks bears  Bottom big, medium and small at the top. Something like 4, 3, 2 would probably work. 

The easiest fastest would be 3 draws then all you need is a frameless carcass, 3 draw boxes and draw slides then sit that on a plinth. Think kitchen cabinets. You can make the top draw look like a double with the draw fronts. You could even put in a divider so it acts like 2 draws. 

In fact you have just inspired me to do something similar as it is easy and fast to make.


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## Dibs-h (12 Jan 2012)

Thanks for the replies chaps. What about face frame ones? Appreciate the face frame will be timber.

Whilst it isn't intended to be a showpiece - I'm loath to make something that resembles some cheap tat.

Also - what about dividers?

Cheers

Dibs


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## johnf (12 Jan 2012)

I turned some reclaimed pine flooring into this


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## sometimewoodworker (12 Jan 2012)

Dibs-h":2cjkyc9n said:


> Thanks for the replies chaps. What about face frame ones? Appreciate the face frame will be timber.
> 
> Whilst it isn't intended to be a showpiece - I'm loath to make something that resembles some cheap tat.
> 
> ...


The same as above except with a face frame. 

If you want to go with 2 top draws the face frame makes that easy as you can attach the draw slides to the face frame. 

As for resembling cheap tat, that really comes down to workmanship and the fittings you use. You make it look good with the detail on the edges and draw fronts.


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## Dibs-h (13 Jan 2012)

Jerome 

Cheers for that. By cheap tat - I meant 1 big open carcass. :lol:

With a face frame, am I right in thinking that the drawer fronts would not overhang the actual drawer boxes? So do\can they?

Assuming the front didn't - I assume one would need to use undermount slides?

Cheers

Dibs


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## sometimewoodworker (13 Jan 2012)

Dibs-h":hybkv75t said:


> Jerome
> 
> Cheers for that. By cheap tat - I meant 1 big open carcass. :lol:
> 
> With a face frame, am I right in thinking that the drawer fronts would not overhang the actual drawer boxes? So do\can they?


It's personal choice both overhang and inset work. Paul-Marcel has a nice set of Youtube videos of a Sculpted Mahogany Vanity with his he has a face frame and overhanging draw fronts This is part 8 fitting the drawshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uThtpHFyxvo he isn't using draw slides so his will have taken longer.

With inset you probably want to have some moulding on the face frame or on the draw front.


> Assuming the front didn't - I assume one would need to use undermount slides?
> Dibs


With inset draws undermount slides are easier and look beter


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## Dibs-h (13 Jan 2012)

Cheers Jerome for that. Will be having a bit of a mull over, methinks.

And a Google round as to who does good undermount slides.

Cheers

Dibs

p.s. when you say



> With inset you probably want to have some moulding on the face frame or on the draw front.


Do you mean around the drawer opening? Not the whole piece in general? I was actually thinking of it all being plain.


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## Dibs-h (13 Jan 2012)

Any suggestions for what\who\where\how much for undermount slides?

Cheers

Dibs

edit: I've received catalogues in the past from Sagastuna or something similar - Japanese sounding. Anyone know who I mean?
2nd edit - got it - *sugatsune*


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## sometimewoodworker (13 Jan 2012)

Dibs-h":1752fdv7 said:


> Cheers Jerome for that. Will be having a bit of a mull over, methinks.
> 
> And a Google round as to who does good undermount slides.
> 
> ...



Yes round the drawer opening or on the draw. This means you don't have to be so exact. the detail takes the eye away from the exact spacing of the draws. With an overlay draw the shadow of the overlay will hide very slight misfitting.

However with all the skills you have been perfecting in your workshop you will have a perfect fit.


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## mailee (13 Jan 2012)

I use these for my full extension soft close runners Dibbs: 
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/adfix-ironmong ... 4340.l2563


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## Dibs-h (13 Jan 2012)

mailee":2oswift8 said:


> I use these for my full extension soft close runners Dibbs:
> http://stores.ebay.co.uk/adfix-ironmong ... 4340.l2563



Cheers for that Alan.

I also found these earlier on whilst Googling - http://www.salicedirect.com/acatalog/in ... lides.html

I've sort of got my head round the construction of the boxes (drawers),including the slides (which thankfully aren't eye watering), just having a bit of a think about the construction of the bigger box. I'm inclined to go face frame with the drawers fronts flush with the face front.

Now just a question\s of 

1. Drawer fronts oversized or not (but still flush), if that makes sense.

2. Do I need or should I fit the (can't remember the name) the elements that go horizontally between one drawer and another that effectively stop stuff falling out of the back of one drawer and into another, but also add rigidity. As the thing is free standing - inclined to fit them. But then again the face frame & back should both give it noticeable rigidity.

3. The exact specifics of the slides - but I dare say getting a pair and experimenting should resolve that one.

Dibs


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## sometimewoodworker (13 Jan 2012)

If you need anything between the top two draws behind the face frame depends on how tall your draw boxes are. Many chests of draws don't have anything. 

Draw slides: buy them *Before* you make the draws. 

Before you start on boxes buy your draw slides. 

And did I mention that you make your boxes to fit your slides?


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## mailee (14 Jan 2012)

I have used those Futura slides in the past Dibbs. They are very good slides and comparable with the ones I posted but they are only single extension and not soft close. HTH. :wink:


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## Dibs-h (15 Jan 2012)

mailee":1gh8zlfo said:


> I have used those Futura slides in the past Dibbs. They are very good slides and comparable with the ones I posted but they are only single extension and not soft close. HTH. :wink:



Cheers Alan

Hadn't spotted that not so little difference.  

Dibs


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## Benchwayze (17 Jan 2012)

You say you have a Domino Dibs.

So it wouldn't be much more work to make up some pine frames, to be dominoed into the MDF sides. (Or maybe even slip-dovetailed in.) Spaced as suggested with the deepest drawer at the bottom, make the drawers accordingly. The frames would separate the drawers and act as runners. You could also rebate some 3mm mdf into the frames to act as dust barriers. That wouldn't look 'tacky' as you put it. 
HTH
John


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## Dibs-h (17 Jan 2012)

Benchwayze":1xb0tygw said:


> You say you have a Domino Dibs.
> 
> So it wouldn't be much more work to make up some pine frames, to be dominoed into the MDF sides. (Or maybe even slip-dovetailed in.) Spaced as suggested with the deepest drawer at the bottom, make the drawers accordingly. The frames would separate the drawers and act as runners. You could also rebate some 3mm mdf into the frames to act as dust barriers. That wouldn't look 'tacky' as you put it.
> HTH
> John



Cheers John

I was thinking of metal concealed runners rather than timber\etc., will use the idea of pine\mdf frames as dust frames.

Just mulling over the overall dimensions, etc. and working out how many sheets of mdf are required. Probably be 600 (or tad less) deep and maybe 1200 high or 900. Was thinking 18mm mdf for the actual frame, but wondering what the thickness should be of the drawers sides\back\front. The drawer bottoms - was think ply as it will weigh less.

Hhmm - have loads of MDF lying about somewhere in the workshop, will have to check the dimensions as that might dictate a few thing.  

Cheers

Dibs


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## Benchwayze (17 Jan 2012)

You're welcome Dibs. If I'm not going the traditional drawer-chest route, I like churning it over, to find inexpensive, but reasonable ways of doing things. 

A further thought. You could also use a frame at the top to connect the sides there, and fix an overhanging top onto that; with a bit of moulding beneath, for appearance, if you don't want to rout the MDF edges. 

For drawer stuff, I'd go 12mm ply (The exterior grade, if you don't want to go to the expense of Birch-ply.) The last time I used ply for drawers I used finger joints, with a dowel drilled not quite all through, from the bottom, for added strength. I did those joints on the router, so I would imagine with a dovetail jig, you could dovetail the ply too. 

Best of luck.

John


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## Dibs-h (17 Jan 2012)

Cheers John.

Been over looking at the other side (WWUK) and it seems quite common to make paneled drawer\door fronts out of MDF. What would appear to be 18mm sides and perhaps 6mm panel run in a groove - quite liking that. Suspect in those cases where the drawer sides\back are also MDF, these looks to be also 18mm MDF, jointed in numerous ways (doms, biscuits, PH screws).

Haven't decided whether the top will overhang, but suppose that can be decided later on. Might have to do a search to see if I can find posts of folk who've done something similar.

Cheers

Dibs


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## Benchwayze (17 Jan 2012)

Dibs, 

I have seen plenty of solid MDF doors and drawer fronts, moulded with a router, using a template. Looks okay for this kind of quick job. 

I have a mish-mash of B&Q style doors in my workshop. I thought of standardising them with moulded MDF like this. Just looking for a router moulding cutter that 'tickles my muse'! 

Summat like this:

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... ed_96.html

John


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## Dibs-h (17 Jan 2012)

Looking at how folk have made MDF drawers - appears it might have to be false fronts, even if they too are MDF. This would allow the front of the drawer carcass to be enclosed by the sides, making for stronger construction than if otherwise.

Lots of reading\research - suppose it will all be useful, as you know what will happen, once Wifey sees one item being produced and is happy? She'll want other things making!  

Dibs


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## Benchwayze (17 Jan 2012)

Dibs-h":16s8hik3 said:


> Looking at how folk have made MDF drawers - appears it might have to be false fronts, even if they too are MDF. This would allow the front of the drawer carcass to be enclosed by the sides, making for stronger construction than if otherwise.
> 
> Lots of reading\research - suppose it will all be useful, as you know what will happen, once Wifey sees one item being produced and is happy? She'll want other things making!
> 
> Dibs



Well, stick to basics... :lol: 
My stuff always looks nicer in the garage than in the dining room! :roll: Don't get so many orders that way! 

John


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## Dibs-h (17 Jan 2012)

Benchwayze":y9zxbzce said:


> Well, stick to basics... :lol:
> My stuff always looks nicer in the garage than in the dining room! :roll: Don't get so many orders that way!
> 
> John



You mean deliberately make shabby stuff, so one doesn't get further orders? :shock: 

Only downside of that is the purchase of high end tools\machinery would soon come to an end. I'd be left a few crappy power tools and some glue.  

Dibs


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## Benchwayze (17 Jan 2012)

In a jocular kind of way Dibs yes! 

A box made of pure gold, is no better than the same design in brass. Just worth more! (The brass box would probably wear better, but needs cleaning!)

I think you know I wouldn't deliberately make shoddy stuff, unless it was just for SWIMBO! :mrgreen: 
Seriously, I hope the chest comes off well, as I am sure it will. 

Have to take a trip to ASDA now, as it happens! 

Cheers.

John


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## mailee (19 Jan 2012)

I don't know if it of any help but when I build MDF drawer units I make the drawers out of 1/2" thick pine (as it's cheap) I also use Bob's system of making doors for making drawer fronts. It is a router cutter in the table with two 6mm slot cutters with a 6mm gap. It makes shaker doors but also works well for shaker drawer fronts too. Quick and easy process and I just use it as a lay on front. HTH. :wink:


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## Dibs-h (19 Jan 2012)

Cheers Alan. Just trying to get the design firmed in my mind. :mrgreen: 

Dibs


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## Dibs-h (23 Jan 2012)

Wondering round the internet, looking at products others are selling (stores and the like): 35" wide seems seems to be a common theme regarding the width of chests of drawers. 

Are there proportions to consider? Or as wide as you like. There's a limit - might get a hernia getting it out of the shop, into the house and upstairs - so I'm not inclined to go with the "large as you like" approach. :? 

Already come across a post on Hambridge Proportioning and Google quickly found

http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/drawsizer_hambridge.htm

which I found interesting and related to, i.e. of the ones I found I liked the look of - the drawers were not all the same size.

Any thoughts on common widths? 

Many thanks

Dibs


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## liam8223 (23 Jan 2012)

Dibs.

If I were you I would be out there having a go!
You have done the right thing by having a look on t'internet to gain some inspiration, 
but I really recommend starting to make the carcass and figuring the rest out as you go.
I find that I get bogged down when putting too much into design/planning and it all falls into place
when I have the wood on the bench.

I know we're not all the same, but looking at your workshop thread you are most definately a 'do er'.

My advice is to do just that!


Liam.


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## Dibs-h (23 Jan 2012)

liam8223":2m9mkjfj said:


> I know we're not all the same, but looking at your workshop thread you are most definately a 'do er'.
> 
> My advice is to do just that!
> 
> ...



Liam

You have no idea the planning that went into that build. The trusses took ages to research and design, even down to scale drawings in Autocad to confirm the angles, etc. :shock: Never mind the casement windows and door.

Dibs


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## liam8223 (23 Jan 2012)

Ok so you like to mull things over!

Try my way, more fun! (hammer)


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## sometimewoodworker (23 Jan 2012)

Dibs-h":1t5ldnig said:


> Wondering round the internet, looking at products others are selling (stores and the like): 35" wide seems seems to be a common theme regarding the width of chests of drawers.
> 
> Are there proportions to consider? Or as wide as you like. There's a limit - might get a hernia getting it out of the shop, into the house and upstairs - so I'm not inclined to go with the "large as you like" approach. :?
> 
> ...


 my thoughts on common widths are that. 
Most furniture isn't custom made. 
It is produced in quantity (2 and up). 
It is made for a market that is different in different countries. 
It has to take into account the access to get the stuff into and out of the rooms. 
It should have nice visual proportions etc. 

Yours needs only to take the last 2 into account. That is the benefit of making stuff for yourself. Of course The proportions need to be sensible. If you try entering crazy data into the site you posted you will find that it will change the hight to match the width and number of draws. I couldn't get a 50cm x 600cm unit with 6 draws 600 changed to 74cm

So what this comes down to is, design the room layout then see how wide and high you want it. Don't bother with standard sizes as most of the reasons for them don't apply to you.

I did mention earlier that the draws should have different hights.


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## Dibs-h (24 Jan 2012)

Jerome

Cheers for that. You're right - the last 2 are only really of interest to me. I've got some dimensions in mind - might draw them on the wall and see how it looks. :idea: 

One of the few benefits of a house that's a WIP in itself. :lol: 

The site I posted, I ignored the other bits and was just using it for the drawer heights. :wink: 

Cheers

Dibs


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## Charlie Woody (24 Jan 2012)

Dibs

Joyce's Technique of Furniture Making give a formula for graduating drawers which I put into an excel sheet to allow me play around with different sizes so that I could end up with drawers that were not too wide for planer/thicknesser or too shallow for my daughter's needs.

For some reason I cannot attach it so if you pm me an email address I will sent it to you.


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## Dibs-h (24 Jan 2012)

Charlie Woody":13z7kf1n said:


> Dibs
> 
> Joyce's Technique of Furniture Making give a formula for graduating drawers which I put into an excel sheet to allow me play around with different sizes so that I could end up with drawers that were not too wide for planer/thicknesser or too shallow for my daughter's needs.
> 
> For some reason I cannot attach it so if you pm me an email address I will sent it to you.



Hi Charlie 

There's a few different ones - the link I posted was to an online version of Hambridge Principle (or thereabouts). That looks good.

Is it the bit on P251,

"To lay out graded drawers:1 Measure the total height of the drawerspace.2 Decide on the number of drawers required.3 Decide on the scale of graduation.4 Calculate as in example below.Drawer space 36 in (92 cm)Number of drawers 4Scale of graduation 4, 5, 6, 7Add together the numbers in the scale of graduation = 22Drawer heights will be:1st drawer 36/22 X 4 = approx. 61/2in (165 mm)2nd drawer 36/22 = approx. 81/4 in (210 mm)3rd drawer 36/22x6 = approx. 93/4 in (248 mm)4th drawer 36 x 7 = approx. 111/2 in (292 mm)This makes no allowance for the thickness of thedrawer rails"

Cheers

Dibs

p.s. Just found an online version - so will be having a read.


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## Charlie Woody (24 Jan 2012)

That's the one Dibs. Once I set it up on excel it's so quick to play around until you find something that suits your needs.


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## Dibs-h (24 Jan 2012)

Cheers for the confirm Charlie. This caught my eye as I'm a bit partial to Shaker stuff







it bizarrely very closely resembles an existing piece we have in the house. The original plan was to make it in MDF\Tulipwood, but can sense the possibility of scope creep setting in here and it escalating. :shock: 

Dibs


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## Charlie Woody (24 Jan 2012)

Dibs
That's very nice! Do you know what timber it is?

Wonder if this was made in ply or mdf and painted how it would look? In case you want to keep the costs down.


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## Dibs-h (24 Jan 2012)

It's from the US and is Cherry. Can't say whether it's ply or solid construction. Being mass produced and US in origin, I suspect the sides are Cherry veneered ply.

For the 1st attempt at furniture - I'm going to go for painted MDF :wink: . Other pieces will no doubt be veneered MDF and solid timber. Or solid timber. Just for this one, I don't have time for dovetailed drawers, etc. Best practice with the Leigh jig 1st and time is short. :lol: 

Cheers

Dibs


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## Charlie Woody (24 Jan 2012)

Good luck with it ..... don't forget the pics!!!


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