# Cutting/chopping board



## Robbo60 (12 Jan 2021)

I would like to make a chopping board but every video I have watched uses a planer/thicknesser to level things up. How can I achieve a good finish without one of these?
I don't think my planing skills could manage it? I would imagine a ROS would take forever on hard wood? Can you hire them?
TIA


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## julianf (12 Jan 2021)

I've made a couple, neither of which would fit in my thickenesser.

I used a router to level them off. Admittedly the unit was held by a CNC machine, but that's really not required at all if you can be bothered to make even a simple router sled.


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## Robbo60 (12 Jan 2021)

Thanks. I'll have to search for router sled? I only have a palm router but suppose it will just take a bit longer. Type of bit? Have to look at my current selection. What bit did you use? (I am a router novice)


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## julianf (12 Jan 2021)

The spindle on my CNC is only a 1050w unit, so not that powerful. I used a 25mm (or 1 inch, I can't remember) bit with a 1/4 shank.

You don't need to buy a sled - I'm sure someone will take your money, but even a couple of lengths of right angle steel (I've used spare dexian racking lengths before) on a couple of evenly sized blocks will do.


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## Peri (12 Jan 2021)

Belt sander is my tool of choice.


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## Robbo60 (12 Jan 2021)

julianf said:


> The spindle on my CNC is only a 1050w unit, so not that powerful. I used a 25mm (or 1 inch, I can't remember) bit with a 1/4 shank.
> 
> You don't need to buy a sled - I'm sure someone will take your money, but even a couple of lengths of right angle steel (I've used spare dexian racking lengths before) on a couple of evenly sized blocks will do.


Thanks Julian. Watched a video using angle iron. Might use Aliminium as easier to work with. Screw rails to either side of work bench should work. Then remove for storage. Sounds like a plan


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## NOTTNICK (12 Jan 2021)

I made this a few weeks ago and used a belt sander. I am really happy with it.


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## Robbo60 (12 Jan 2021)

NOTTNICK said:


> I made this a few weeks ago and used a belt sander. I am really happy with it.


Thanks Nick. Don't have a belt sander. I'm not far from you, other side of Nottingham, Ravenshead. I'm going to try a board with "end strips first before attempting something like that. Looks great


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## Rorton (12 Jan 2021)

I did a post on cutting boards and also used a router in a sled to flatten:









Walnut and Cherry End Grain Cutting Board - Finished with food safe mineral oil and beeswax


Posted a quick thread in the 'post your last thing made' and had questions about certain things, so thought I'd post all my pics as im a bit over the top taking pictures :) Lumber cut to rough size First 'blank' ready to glue up - this is for the centre section of the board - I'll make...




www.ukworkshop.co.uk





You may need something more than a palm router though


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## NOTTNICK (12 Jan 2021)

Robbo60 said:


> Thanks Nick. Don't have a belt sander. I'm not far from you, other side of Nottingham, Ravenshead. I'm going to try a board with "end strips first before attempting something like that. Looks great


Happy to lend you the sander (or even a router) when you get to that stage.


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## ObiWayneKenobi (13 Jan 2021)

Don't doubt your planing skills. As long as you're not working with end grain, a regular smoothing planer will be more effective than you might think. Just take a little off at a time and keep checking high and low spots with a straight edge.


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## Jameshow (13 Jan 2021)

I'd second a sharp plane over a belt sander as the belt sander will cover your workshop with dust even with a dust extractor. Including your lungs. 

Where as the plane will leave you easy to clean up shavings. 

Also the plane will produce a finer finish with less overall effort than going through the grades on a belt sander. 

Cheers James


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## Robbo60 (13 Jan 2021)

NOTTNICK said:


> Happy to lend you the sander (or even a router) when you get to that stage.


Thanks Nick. I'm going to make a router sled and try with the palm router first. Just taking small cuts should work. Not in a hurry nowadays. First thing I have to do is find some hard wood strips to use. I once got some hardwood from a merchant near Clifton (I think). Any ideas?


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## Cabinetman (13 Jan 2021)

There is something very satisfying in planing a large area of end grain, very sharp plane, bit of candle wax and finely set, no grain direction to worry about and the finish is as clean as a whistle, whereas with abrasive papers you are just putting finer and finer scratches onto the surface. I suppose eventually you wouldn’t be able to see them but it would take a lot longer than it would with a plane. Ian


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## ndbrown (13 Jan 2021)

Yes, another on with a belt sander on a large board/top


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## Robbo60 (13 Jan 2021)

ndbrown said:


> Yes, another on with a belt sander on a large board/top
> View attachment 100811


Looks amazing! Great job


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## Peri (13 Jan 2021)

Another belt sander job - took about 15mins to get to the point of using an orbital. 
I think you'll be surprised how quick a belt sander with coarse grit removes material.


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## NOTTNICK (13 Jan 2021)

Jameshow said:


> I'd second a sharp plane over a belt sander as the belt sander will cover your workshop with dust even with a dust extractor. Including your lungs.
> 
> Where as the plane will leave you easy to clean up shavings.
> 
> ...


I agree about the ultra fine dust. Mega extraction needed. However I have saved a jar full as it makes such a perfect filler for my woodturning when brushed into cracks and fixed with CA.


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## ndbrown (13 Jan 2021)

In my case I always wear a dust mask and the belt sander was connected to a Festool CTL26. After the larger steps are removed I moved to a Rotex 150 then an ETS EC150 DA sander. I am sure other sanders would be equally as good as would hand planes if you choose that route. As my block is 60cm square I needed to assemble mine in 3 sections and had some small steps that needed levelled off. You definitely get a nicer finish using a hand plane. I have used a scraper plane as a final finish. This photo was taken later with the scraper plane used on the top only and the sides planed.


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## Peri (13 Jan 2021)

I do mine outside


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## Robbo60 (14 Jan 2021)

With my router/trimmer 1/4 collet, what would be the largest bit i should use? 25 or 50mm?


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## Doug B (14 Jan 2021)

Robbo60 said:


> . First thing I have to do is find some hard wood strips to use. I once got some hardwood from a merchant near Clifton (I think). Any ideas?


What timber were you thinking of using?


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## Robbo60 (14 Jan 2021)

Doug B said:


> What timber were you thinking of using?


not sure but cherry, maple, walnut seem popular. Would it be worth making one with some scraps of soft wood to practice techniques - gluing, clamping etc? Don't want to waste expensive stuff


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## Doug B (14 Jan 2021)

Sent you a PM @Robbo60


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## julianf (16 Jan 2021)

Robbo60 said:


> With my router/trimmer 1/4 collet, what would be the largest bit i should use? 25 or 50mm?



I'd be surprised if there are many 1/4 shank / 2" cutters about?

1/4 collet machines are normally less powerful. The shank is weaker and the friction in the collet is less than a 1/2"

I would stick with 1" even if 2" were availible.

Additionally, if you're doing this by hand, then a 1" bit will show less issues if evreything isn't perfectly level.


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## Robbo60 (16 Jan 2021)

julianf said:


> I'd be surprised if there are many 1/4 shank / 2" cutters about?
> 
> 1/4 collet machines are normally less powerful. The shank is weaker and the friction in the collet is less than a 1/2"
> 
> ...


Thanks Julian. Just measured router and aperture in bottom is only 30mm any way, so 25mm it is,


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