# SIP TS mods



## Digit (5 Feb 2010)

These are the modifications that I have done to my SIP 10 inch table saw. 







Two new inserts, one zero clearance the other to replace the dreadful original. 






Insert in place and sub fence attached. 






Stop for use on limited length cuts. 






Various tools in easy reach using magnets. 






The casters are simply bolted to the frame. 






Router fence attached to saw fence. 






Stops attached to router fence. 






Router fixed to underside of table saw. 






NVR switch and speed control for router. 






Overhead router in place on saw table. 

Roy.


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## wizer (5 Feb 2010)

Some excellent mods there Roy. Very interesting. Did you fabricate the overhead router yourself?


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## Digit (5 Feb 2010)

Yes Tom, in part. The column was a photographic copier stand that I converted.
Various jig pics to follow.
The saw is basically good, but as they are, I assume, mainly for hobbyists I can't understand why the manufacturers don't bring out additional bolt ons.

Roy.


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## Chems (5 Feb 2010)

What about dust collection on yours, I find the over head guard to be awful and a lot of dust seems to escape into the cabinet not into the below the blade guard?


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## Digit (5 Feb 2010)

Dust collection? What dust collection? :lol: 
I've cut the stub off of the four inch outlet and use an extractor on there and a vacuum cleaner on the crown guard. Also the side panel has been removed so that I can clean underneath easily from the side. 

Roy.


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## Chems (5 Feb 2010)

Yeah I've taken off the stub as well, tapped it up. Got 100mm going into that and RSDE into the crown guard but still getting a lot of dust escaping.


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## Digit (5 Feb 2010)

To be honest Chems I've given up on that, I now have a side panel permanently removed and simply vacuum regularly.

Roy.


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## brianhabby (27 Nov 2010)

Hi Roy,

Some interesting mods there. Can I ask, what is the benefit of the overhead router rather than a regular router table setup?

regards

Brian


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## WhyDi (27 Nov 2010)

Good morning,
Related to the other available machine tools in a shop, the overhead router is probably not the main no more the easiest or fastest way of machining wood but may turn out helpful with small workpieces as shown in the below photo. Such arrangement does not require the little stock to be raised then clamped on a worktop so that the router bit could go through the whole depth. Compared with a regular router table, the bit goes through the workpiece and not conversely which leads to dodge a dropping-on operation. Click the picture to get more details on that overhead router.





Besides using such technique is often related to machining habits and someone used to mould on a spindle moulder, as instance, would be more likely inclined to move the workpiece rather than the tool. On the other hand small diameter bits do not properly work locked into a collet chuck. So the overhead router is an option but no more in my view.

As for the Digit's work, converting the stand of a photographic copier is really a smart idea :idea: . How did you lock the router on the stand base ?

Best Regards


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## Digit (27 Nov 2010)

Blimey Brian you have been scouring the archives haven't you? 
The two main advantages are being able to see what you are doing and the fact that you are not sawing the branch that you are sitting on! 
Take a stopped rebate or a mortice for example, on a conventional table you have to make marks or use pieces of tape to know where to stop the cut. 
Overarm you simply work to your setting out marks. 
With mouldings, for example, Norm makes the moulding on a wide piece of stock then saws the moulding free. Fine if you are happy with a sawn face, also if you need to make several the same it can be difficult to ensure that the cut off mouldings are all sawn to the same dimension. Planing after cutting with small or thin mouldings is near impossible. 
Overarm you can prepare your stock to the finished size then rout the moulding, this cannot be done on a table as you are cutting away the face that sits on the table, like sawing the branch that you are sitting on! 
As WhyDi says, the set up is especially helpful with small mouldings. 
Somewhere in the archives are some pics of a small clock that I made. The box part is about 150 mm square and some 50 or so mouldings were required, and I've made three of the clocks for the family! 
You could in some cases make long mouldings then, as with my clocks, mitre the ends. With the overarm you can mould after mitreing, thus there is no chimbling of the mouldings from cutting the mitres. 
I entered the last competition with a writing slope, again pics may be in the archives, I failed to complete it within the deadline unfortunately, but here is one of the overarm's greatest assets. 
A box for example. Normal method is to make the carcass, fit top and base then saw them apart, this guarantees that the top and base are the same size. 
Then comes the fun part of cleaning up the mating faces dead square! 
With the overarm it is a doddle! Just pass the sawn faces under a router cutter. 
The router, WhyDi, is simply attached to the 'Vee' slides and that is screwed to a mounting plate that would have originally held the camera.

Roy.


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## brianhabby (27 Nov 2010)

Hi Roy,

Yes indeed I was scouring the archives, not looking for anything in particular just browsing. If you check out the time of my post you will see it was one of those 'can't seem to get to sleep moments'

Thanks for the thorough explanation, I can see it makes perfect sense. I especially like the idea of using it to clean up the edges of a sawn box.

regards

Brian


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## Digit (28 Nov 2010)

Brian, these pics may give you some idea of why I use an over arm router.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/cloc ... ght=clocks

Roy.


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## brianhabby (28 Nov 2010)

Thanks Roy,

I remember the clock thread from when you posted it but hadn't picked up on the overhead router.

I'll have to look into fixing something up when I get time - just so much to do..

regards

Brian


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