# Latest KT Tools Prototype - Cutting Gauge



## jimi43 (6 Nov 2011)

I have long since admired the old cutting gauges....the ones with the brass wedge parallel to the cutter...simple brass face and hardwood back with a brass shaft.

With this in mind I decided to design one with a slightly more modern look but with all the best features of the tried and tested version.

So here are the prototypes...the first I always keep and the second, Douglas (condeesteso) has ordered and has offered to review shortly.

So here they are....







The hardwood is...yes you guessed it...lignum vitae. This is a wonderful choice for the back since it is extremely hard-wearing and self lubricating so it slides beautifully without binding whilst allowing close tolerance machining. This minimises slop in the movement now...and in the future.

The brass elements are CZ121 high quality stock, the face being epoxied to the back and also studs are also sunk deep into the wood for added strength and to further prevent parting of the two. The cutter is 01 tool steel, tip hardened and then ground and honed.

Douglas has ordered a slightly shorter shaft...radius ends to the shaft to prevent dents to the bench on micro adjustment tapping and a custom thumbscrew.

Short and long shaft:






The slight radius is clearer in this shot...






As you can see...the wedge is solid brass...and fits parallel to the cutter....






...which is hardened at the cutting edge...double bevelled on one side only and positioned with the flat on the face side to give a more accurate reference edge.






Internally is a captive nut...the brass thumbscrew cap is brazed to a steel threaded rod for strength and longevity and a soft brass insert is fitted between the end of the screw and the shaft mating surface to reduce damage to the latter.

I have also been playing around with Corian off-cuts and made a presentation case for the original....






I really like that stuff...it is so versatile and now that I have solved the monomer welding technique....it is strong too!

I think I have a few refinements to make and short production once I have worked out viability but for now...another prototype in the KT Tools range.

Cheers guys and gals

Jim


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## Paul Chapman (7 Nov 2011)

They look great, Jim. Beautifully made.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Richard T (7 Nov 2011)

Jim - loverly stuff. :mrgreen:


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## condeesteso (7 Nov 2011)

Brilliant Jim - maybe get my hands on it later today! I've gone for a bit shorter as the usual operating range for me is around 5 - 35mm, and mainly say 8 - 25mm. I found the longer one a little tail-heavy and I'm hoping the shorter will balance easier in the hand. The turned screw without knurling is based on one Jim made for an infill, but smaller. I didn't think the knurling would be necessary and the fit between shaft and head is so good, just a pinch should do.
I have tried the American ones (Titemark etc) but didn't get used to them, so a beauty like this which is more traditional English style will suit me very well. We may possibly need to reduce head dia a tads, but try it first. ('We', he says...). Must say the prototype was a dream to use though.


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## houtslager (7 Nov 2011)

looks great, am interested in a short tailed one, post me details of availability and costs Jim

k


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## Vann (7 Nov 2011)

Beautiful to look at. Beautiful pieces of engineering. But they look to be _very_ heavy :?: 

And I can't figure out what you've done with the wedge. It looks wrong to me - but you're not so daft as to have mis-assembled it - so what am I missing?

Cheers, Vann.


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## Jensmith (7 Nov 2011)

They are stunning. Beautiful.


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## markturner (7 Nov 2011)

PM sent


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## Harbo (7 Nov 2011)

Nice work Jim

If I am being critical, I would comment one the raw costs of the materials used - unless you have a cheap source of Lignum and brass, as you seem to be making it out of solid stuff - even the nut?
But then again you must be aiming for the top end of the market - if so I think you should be knurling the knob?  

Rod


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## Richard T (7 Nov 2011)

Re knurling, during my recent immersion in lathe studies, in one of my books I saw a technique described to cut straight grooves, slowly, by simply having the job stationary in the chuck while manually winding the saddle back and forth, very gently advancing the cross slide. 
Though how to keep the chuck locked in position and easily divide into equal portions will take some more sussing ...


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## bugbear (7 Nov 2011)

Harbo":1mjrlscc said:


> Nice work Jim
> 
> If I am being critical, I would comment one the raw costs of the materials used - unless you have a cheap source of Lignum and brass



Car boot dealing?

BugBear


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## pedder (7 Nov 2011)

Hi Jim, 

now that is wunderschön!

And you are very clever to make one for you in the first batch. People won't let you keep one of the next batches.

Cheers 
Pedder


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## woodpig (7 Nov 2011)

They look nicely made but maybe I'd have locked the cutter in place with another thumbscrew on the end instead of the wedge?


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## Harbo (7 Nov 2011)

Richard T said


> Though how to keep the chuck locked in position and easily divide into equal portions will take some more sussing ...



Use a Dividing Head and a locking pin see photo - the DH is the wheel on the left drilled with holes:






Or use a knurling tool - quite cheap from the likes of Chronos or RDG Tools

Rod


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (7 Nov 2011)

Jim

Those are STUNNING!

I am at a loss for words ... almost  
How easy are they to hold in one hand? - the round face/base looks quite a handful (pun intended).

Regards from Perth

Derek

ps why did you not use Jarrah?! :lol:


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## monkeybiter (7 Nov 2011)

I have used repeated saddle traverses to cut square holes and it's not only a PITA but it puts abnormal stresses on the lead screw and half nuts. The knurls on Chronos's site are very cheap, you should go for a clamp type, again because they keep the stresses in the right place.


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## Pvt_Ryan (7 Nov 2011)

... Speechless. Just wow. 

I think the final touch (at least for me) would have been if you 'd polished the faceplate to a mirror. Unless that would have showed up your plugs, though perhaps a contrasting set would have looked well.


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## bugbear (7 Nov 2011)

Pvt_Ryan":21ybf4o6 said:


> ... Speechless. Just wow.
> 
> I think the final touch (at least for me) would have been if you 'd polished the faceplate to a mirror. Unless that would have showed up your plugs, though perhaps a contrasting set would have looked well.



Since that face is a sliding surface on the workpiece, I don't think it's a good idea, unless you're aiming for a fettled and unused tool beyond even my fevered notions.

BugBear


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## SurreyHills (7 Nov 2011)

They look fantastic. Almost afraid to ask how much.


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## Pvt_Ryan (7 Nov 2011)

bugbear":20fllscy said:


> Pvt_Ryan":20fllscy said:
> 
> 
> > ... Speechless. Just wow.
> ...



Oh it's a tool??? I thought it was a work of art for the mantle piece..  


I didn't actually expect it to stay with a mirror finish, I was just thinking it would be a nice touch..


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## condeesteso (7 Nov 2011)

I have to say I am excited to see the feedback on this piece, having got my hands on No2 only this afternoon. No point me posting pics as Jim's are better than mine anyway. Couple of things... and I didn't really know 'til I tried it, it was a guess. It is quite 'massy' but not awkwardly heavy. I do not feel the lock screw needs any knurling at all, it clamps up tight enough with the plain knob (noting the clearance between shaft and head is more or less nil, i.e. just enough to move smoothly). The wedge is correct I think (certainly when looking at older versions) - it seems illogical but the hole is tapered, and the sneck needs to be visible to a tool to remove it - not so if it was turned 90 degrees. Re balance, really good to hold and work. I do not think a longer stem helps (personally) and offers capacity most will never use. Re knurling I would visually like the axial (RichardT) approach, but it isn't actually needed. Anyway, Jim will probably do variants... I just went for what I liked.
Small user point - the cylindrical shaft makes it really easy to tilt, start the mark, see the tip into and out of stock etc. Not so with the standard square-ish versions.
Main thing is it certainly works, and very well indeed. Looks OK too. 
And for the doubters I am paying proper money for this. I offered £80 (proper money down my way) and that is probably discounted as I sort of helped tweaking it. I am sure it is worth a Glenn Drake plus a handmade premium... but that is for the maker to decide.
May try some pics in use (will need a helper) soon... but keep an eye on this. I think it's right at the front of the new 'shed-maker' excellence emerging in the UK (thank goodness).


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## jimi43 (7 Nov 2011)

Thanks for the kind feedback guys and gals...I am humbled...  

Douglas has received his one this afternoon and will be doing a mini review so I will leave pricing and bespoke production until after this testing. I have quite a few price requests and reservation requests today so will let you all know when these trials have been done.

Now to hopefully answer some of your questions...

Regarding the wedge...I just like the design...it is one of the quirkier historical designs.....here is a chunkier one.....







Vann my friend...the socket for the cutter and wedge is tapered on three sides which forces the cutter against the inner edge which is cut straight. It is quite a clever design but I am sure someone here has more details...I'm willing to bet ALF is an expert on this subject! 

Alternative methods of holding the cutter...

I find that screws on the end get in the way of my holding the tool...I tend to hold both ends when sliding but that's just me. Putting in a recessed screw as in later designs is ok but I don't find it as positive as a wedge and after all...how often to you adjust this aspect of the tool once set?

Raw material costs Rod....

The cost of high quality material is a small proportion of the overall production cost.....labour is very much the majority of the cost. I use high quality brass...I might use gunmetal too...but cheap brass is horrible so I don't intend lowering quality that way. Yes...I guess this is more of a top end tool...but all my designs will be...I think there is a market. As far as weight...I will leave Douglas to comment....

Regarding knurling...I will be able to do cross hatch, axial or none at all. I have tried the lathe method Richard...it works well but I think I will prefer to do pressure knurling. Douglas thinks the plain look works...and it is fine to lock the shaft/face.

Derek...the physical size can be dimensioned to various hand sizes, tastes....again Douglas liked the larger head....I prefer the slightly smaller one... For production...we will probably settle on a happy medium or make two types....and yes...Jarrah is very much on the cards!

Pvt-Ryan....regarding the polishing or not decision...I tend to make brushed surfaces for those which will rub and polished for those that won't. I like contrast in brass...hence the polished surfaces of the rim and inner bevels of the knob. I think this is very attractive. BB is spot on here with his explanation.

As I said at the start...this is very much WIP...and a prototype...another trial for possible inclusion in the range that I will settle on when I finally get into production.....

Bespoke tools will always be available and I have discussed prices with a few others so that will be decided soon.

Thanks again folks for all the feedback...and I've just noticed that Douglas has posted some more comments on initial impressions...so I will await the full review before moving further...but I somehow think this one is definitely up there as a prime candidate for production.

Cheers!

Jim


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## No skills (7 Nov 2011)

Jim, they are superb!

The serious wood worker can certainly build up an amazing tool kit with some of the low volume/high quality hand made tools I have seen on here of late.

Have you considered doing a gauge with a roller? or are you set on the pin/blade type?


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## Beardo16 (7 Nov 2011)

All im going to say is nice job, maybe once production has started i would love to know a final cost.

Again very nice indeed

Adam


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## MickCheese (7 Nov 2011)

Jim

Fantastic job and definitely a 'work of art', funny you should post this today as I was only this morning using the mallet you made me and thinking how absolutely lovely it was, so perfectly balanced. This gauge really is a high end tool. 

Bridge City Tools move over!  

Mick


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## rileytoolworks (7 Nov 2011)

Lovely work Jimi. I've been working on a prototype marking gauge myself these last few weeks. (using stainless and blackwood)
I love the timber choice of yours though.
Can I ask what size the stock is? What lathe have you got, by the way? 
Good luck mate.
Adam.


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## jimi43 (7 Nov 2011)

Thanks for the feedback Douglas...most kind of you! I felt in a shadow today with the bench and Pedder's gent's saw though! We did have quite a bit to try out that's for sure!

I look forward to seeing the results of your further testing....I should have made it *before* you made your beautiful bench...then it would have seen some workout!!!

No Skills....funny you should mention the roller cutter design...Douglas gave me one today to take away and study...I have some ideas for this design for those that like them...blended with a beautiful antique design I have been studying lately....watch this space!

Mick....that is most coincidental and so glad you are pleased with your mallet. Douglas was showing me the paces he put his mallet through today...boy..he wasn't joking when he said he put it through some gruesome workout! Don't worry about having to be gentle...the lignum vitae really takes some punishment...trust me on that one! Not that you use it for mortices but it's nice to know it will stand up to it when you do...! :wink: 

Adam...how are you my friend? Please post some pictures of your gauge...that sounds gorgeous! Strangely...when I was finishing off Douglas' one...I was pondering about variants....stainless and ebony was one thought that whizzed through my mind...I would love to see how that looks if you can spare a moment to share.

Again...thanks for the feedback my friends! 

Jim


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## bugbear (8 Nov 2011)

jimi43":1wksr0hw said:


> Alternative methods of holding the cutter...
> 
> I find that screws on the end get in the way of my holding the tool...I tend to hold both ends when sliding but that's just me. Putting in a recessed screw as in later designs is ok but I don't find it as positive as a wedge and after all...how often to you adjust this aspect of the tool once set?








That's a countersunk woodscrew, with a thread tapped onto the shank, which engages a female thread in the brass slug, visible above the cutter. I used a BSW thread, since it's easy to source. The blade has never moved in use, but if you wanted a more "positive" hold, you could hunt down a BSF, BSC or BA bolt.

Of course, the metal-lathe advantaged could more easily create a purpose made bolt.

BugBear


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## rileytoolworks (8 Nov 2011)

Hi Jimi. You asked for photos, well these are the early prototype prototype!
Obviously this has not got it's cutter or adjusting screw, but you get the idea.
These will have a hardened silver steel wheel type cutter (made by me), and stainless shaft. The shaft is a sliding fit on the stock.
This one is in stainless, bronze and wenge. This was a practice piece for the real thing, which will not feature the bronze detail.
Forgive the picture quality, and the fact it looks 'unfinished' (which, of course, it is!)














I hope to be finished prototyping in the next week or so, but I've got the machines set up for another paying job at the moment.  
(Sorry for hijacking the thread Jimi)
Thanks.
Adam.


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## jimi43 (8 Nov 2011)

No hijack at all Adam...a request!!

Wonderful mate...I really like that design.

Funnily enough...we are working in the same direction on the same design...for the wheel type but I think that mine will be more vintage looking...there is something with the smaller wheel gauges...Douglas and I discussed them...but I want to make them work slightly differently...

Will show and tell later but meanwhile keep the pictures coming mate...this is a really interesting tool.

Jim


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## jimi43 (8 Nov 2011)

BB...that's the design I was mulling over....believe me, I thought long and hard about this option...but I love the wedge and I think that was why I incorporated it more than functionality...just the look. I have a soft spot for wedged infills too...I guess that it's a visual thing.

Thanks for showing your example.....nicely made mate!

Jimi


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## Harbo (8 Nov 2011)

I think MrEd made some of those designs a few years ago?
Based on the Tite-Mark, Veritas types.

Rod


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## bugbear (9 Nov 2011)

jimi43":157cqh6y said:


> BB...that's the design I was mulling over....believe me, I thought long and hard about this option...but I love the wedge and I think that was why I incorporated it more than functionality...just the look. I have a soft spot for wedged infills too...I guess that it's a visual thing.
> 
> Thanks for showing your example.....nicely made mate!
> 
> Jimi



You also said that screws get in the way, and that a wedge is more secure. I addressed both those points specifically.

If your preference is aesthetic or historic, that's a different matter, but that's not what you said.

BugBear


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## jimi43 (9 Nov 2011)

bugbear":g1dw0fy7 said:


> jimi43":g1dw0fy7 said:
> 
> 
> > BB...that's the design I was mulling over....believe me, I thought long and hard about this option...but I love the wedge and I think that was why I incorporated it more than functionality...just the look. I have a soft spot for wedged infills too...I guess that it's a visual thing.
> ...



Yes sorry BB....the screw is easier to remove the cutter...and it is my opinion that the wedge is _*no less*_ positive and the over-riding decision to go with it was aesthetics and historical preference. I believe there are many design elements that have passed into obscurity or disuse and shouldn't have....I want to make my tools with this consideration for the past.

In trials, Douglas found some interesting benefits to the wedge which had nothing to do with its main purpose....but I'll leave him to explain those...I'm sure he'll be along later to comment.

Cheers mate

Jim


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## jimi43 (9 Nov 2011)

Oh...and Adam...the wood lathe I use is a turn of last century Taylor of Hulme metal lathe which has lost accuracy for metal work but has more than enough mass for woodworking...no speed control..converted from belt to pulley and my little baby...






The metal lathe is just as bonkers...and old original ML1 with a few tweaks  ....






I suppose one day I will grow up and get proper equipment but for now...these little ladies will have to do! :mrgreen: 

Stock shaft is 5/8" bar stock from my favourite FleaBay metal supplier, O1 stock is from a lovely lady in Maidstone.

I have some 1/2" round bar too...I think that will be used next to make different versions of another head design I am tinkering with...more on that later! :wink: 

Jimi


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## bugbear (9 Nov 2011)

jimi43":vngtqa1w said:


> The metal lathe is just as bonkers...and old original ML1 with a few tweaks  ....



I think metal workers always modify their lathes - because they can!

BugBear


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## jimi43 (9 Nov 2011)

Indeed BB! :mrgreen: 

I needed to modify this one though...it came from FleaBay for £100 and there were a number of bits missing...like the countershaft...the motor....parts of the cross-slide and the toolpost.

So needs must in this case...one day I will get around to putting guards on them!  

Jim


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## bugbear (9 Nov 2011)

jimi43":2w9by7qs said:


> Indeed BB! :mrgreen:
> 
> I needed to modify this one though...it came from FleaBay for £100 and there were a number of bits missing...like the countershaft...the motor....parts of the cross-slide and the toolpost.
> 
> ...



I'd call that replacement, not modification. Sounds like fun!

I read in an old model engineer of a guy adding screw cutting facilities to a Super Adept...

BugBear


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## condeesteso (9 Nov 2011)

turned into a bloody lathe thread now... I'm off :lol: 
(yes, a pun, I know).


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## jumps (9 Nov 2011)

condeesteso":1r2eb7k6 said:


> turned into a bloody lathe thread now... I'm off :lol:
> (yes, a pun, I know).



ah - but it attracted others...........

Jimi - simply stunning (again), and I think you have nailed the combination of precision/built to last with a retro look. =D> 

One question; given the precision inherent in the design, why wouldn't you inscibe the stock in mm to make it even quicker to set, say, 38mm?

I'm guessing that it might relate to the time/cost equation for individually crafted tools like this, but thought I would ask


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## Mr Ed (9 Nov 2011)

Harbo":31mi844u said:


> I think MrEd made some of those designs a few years ago?
> Based on the Tite-Mark, Veritas types.
> 
> Rod



I did, here they are;












I actually favour a more simple traditional design for my own use. It makes use of a scalpel blade for the cutter, which is obviously disposable for convenience and you can also put a pencil in the same hole and adjust the clamp bolt to suit;






These were the subject of an article I did in F&C 135 back in 2007

Cheers, Ed


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## adidat (9 Nov 2011)

ed what did you do for the circular blades, so far i have found veritas ones at £3.60 a pop.

some nice gauges in this thread

adidat


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## Mr Ed (9 Nov 2011)

adidat":1ofocwvm said:


> ed what did you do for the circular blades, so far i have found veritas ones at £3.60 a pop.
> 
> some nice gauges in this thread
> 
> adidat



At the time I used Axminster, part number 600457, £2.30 each but it appears that doesn't exist any more. Veritas are prob your best bet. I did make some myself in A2, but the time it took wasn't worth it when you consider the cost to buy in.

Ed


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## jimi43 (9 Nov 2011)

AH.....and interesting *turn* of events this evening while I was at work!

I guess the lathes added a new dimension Douglas...sorry about that... :wink: 

Yes BB....needed to make the "modifications" to make it work and Annie still hasn't discovered that her exercise bike (Mk1) is a countershaft frame for the Myford....mmmm =P~ 

Jumps my friend....you need to pop over to Douglas or mine when we meet up...I'm sure we Kentish lads need another meet up soon. As far as marking in mm......go wash out your shop with WD40....how very dare you! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: 

Cheers for posting your beautiful gauges Mr Ed....I do believe your stem gauges were amongst the ones I found during my research and some elements obviously found their way into my mind! There are a lot of fine designs out there...and I guess we all have our favourites for differing reasons.

The cutters for the wheel gauges are something I was researching as well...something I will continue to look into as I develop the next project.... :wink: 

Jim


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## bugbear (10 Nov 2011)

I dug out a couple of wedge-held cutting gauges in my workshop, to check out the wedge shapes.

One of the wedges fell out into the shavings, and I still haven't found it.  

This is annoying, but may constitute anecdotal evidence against the security of wedges!

BugBear


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## jimi43 (10 Nov 2011)

bugbear":2eln50oj said:


> I dug out a couple of wedge-held cutting gauges in my workshop, to check out the wedge shapes.
> 
> One of the wedges fell out into the shavings, and I still haven't found it.
> 
> ...



Ah! The old "Stay-Set" problem strikes again! :wink: 

These cutters also have two bevels but you will be pleased to know...they are not on the same edge! :mrgreen: 

Jim


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## bugbear (11 Nov 2011)

Reading through some old catalogues, I found this, which people may find of interest.






BugBear


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## jimi43 (11 Nov 2011)

I probably have more books on vintage tools than there are vintage tool types but without doubt...the best source ever, is the old original catalogue and sales brochure.

This brief glimpse into the past BB....presents one with a perfect example of the wide variety of design options available at that time. 

Here within this short list of examples we see many standards and "improved" changes as these fascinating tools evolved. Indeed, there is no singular gauge which will ever be the "right" one...I doubt if there ever will be. What there will be while these examples exist though is a great source of debate unto their individual merits.

Look at the cutter holders within this single page...look at the recessing of screws, the change from round to oval to D shape profiles in face design. Changes in materials used, evolution of technology and material refinement all play their part in producing the latest vogue.

Just this tiny backwater of the tool world will open up an intriguing research subject to anyone who cares about tools and future design. I thank you for sharing this perfect snippet.

Jim


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## bugbear (11 Nov 2011)

To paraphrase George Santayana, those who know their tool history can choose to repeat it. :lol: 

BugBear


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## bugbear (20 Nov 2011)

Here my filed down and threaded wood screw:






I also recalled an old thread where I made a brass wedge to hold the blade:

http://swingleydev.com/archive/get.php? ... =1#message

Summary: 10 degrees slipped, 6 degrees didn't.

BugBear


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## condeesteso (13 Dec 2011)

Sorry for the delay, but the gauge has been in regular use. Jim did some tuning of the blade as I found the original too biting. More of that in a moment. It has been put alongside a Marples Trial One, and a vintage ebony/brass mortice gauge:





A few notes:
- I asked for a shorter stem (compared to the No1 version) - this is 150mm and balances nicely, with ample capacity for normal use. This is up to the individual but I use these in the range say 5mm to 35mm, hardly ever more. I would use this with confidence at say 80mm, but I hardly ever would.
- it is quite heavy compared to a wooden one. Total is 400g, with stem 220, head 180. But I actually like the weight.
- the head is 61mm dia, No1 was about 51mm. I am very happy with the size but suggest optimum my be around 55mm.
- I chose the lock-screw, based on an old Spiers I think and similar to one Jim made for an infill he has. Knurling is probably optional but I like how this looks and it has ample grip. The vintage by the way, is all screw adjustments - a nice tool but I could not live with it for that reason.
- under the screw is a sacrificial soft metal insert to prevent the brass stem marking. Jim gave me 3 spares but I am certain the one that's in will last forever.
- The wedge locks very securely, and is easy to tap out. Normally the blade would stay in a long time, but as I was messing with blade profiles it's been in and out a lot.
- The wedge serves as a rest for a left-hand finger to orientate the blade to the work - I often hold these with both hands, using left to draw the gauge fence into the stock.

The blade profile settled on is fairly standard I suspect - a rounded point, bevelled both sides. Tried a bevel one side only - failure on the tracking front. Too pointy causes it to bite.






One benefit of the rounded stem is the ease of seeing the blade at work (single left-handed due to a camera in right hand).:





In summary, I think it is a beautiful execution of a classic marking tool. It's very largely traditional, and essentially a simple tool. The difference is in the precision and the quality of materials, making it a delight to own and use.


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## thecoder (18 Dec 2011)

I would love to have one,are they available for sale ?


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## FestoolFishy (18 Dec 2011)

Jim 
That's a fine piece please let me know when to are taking orders 

Best regards for a Merry Christmas

Peter


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## jimi43 (18 Dec 2011)

Hi Guys...and all others who have contacted me to order when the testing has finished....

The testing is now all but complete and we have settled on the optimum cutter shape...although others will be available by request.

I have a few more tests to do and some pricing calculations which I hope to have ready in the New Year so you are all noted and I will be contacting the interested parties on here first and foremost. This is taking a little time to get perfect...but we are getting there so I appreciate your patience and indeed...overwhelming interest! :shock: 

Lastly but certainly not least...a huge thanks to Douglas for doing the reviewing and being...well...Douglas...honest, accurate...no BS review but most importantly..providing me with some very constructive improvement suggestions...THANKS mate! =D> 

Back soon!

Chee


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## jimi43 (23 Dec 2011)

Over the last few weeks Douglas has been testing (and reviewing) the KT Tools marking gauge and I want to kick of with a huge "thank you" for his dedicated work in refining what, at first glance, may seem a small point...the cutter.

But those of you who know cutting and edge tools will realise that if this isn't absolutely perfect...it will degrade the final tool to the point where it isn't quite that joy to use one expects from a bespoke or high-end tool.

So...after testing various profiles and back bevels....the optimum has been achieved and will become standard on the gauge from now on. Bespoke requests can still be made but I am convinced that most users will find the standard cutter...the best in all ways.

We wanted to show how fine the line is in all circumstances so more close-up shots were taken...on some beech stock for clarity but this cutter works on all types of wild grain...






Douglas likes to use the wedge as a guide to move the edge into the wood...the gauge can be pushed or pulled although pulling has more control....

LONG GRAIN...the line is crisp and true....(click all pictures to zoom in)





CROSS GRAIN....again the gauge copes very well with cutting across the fibres....





....and finally CROSS GRAIN LONG REACH....produced a crisp line parallel to the end face...





I think we are happy now...I will leave Douglas to comment further but we are almost there...and time to fulfil some of the requests that I already have on PM....once the holiday season is over and the new year kicks in...of course!

Thanks Douglas! =D> 

Jim


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## AndyT (23 Dec 2011)

Hi Jim

Mr Picky of Bristol here. Those last two shots are cross-grain, not end grain.

(NB - I'm not just being picky - you now have an excuse to post even more pictures of your excellent handiwork!)


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## jimi43 (23 Dec 2011)

AndyT":3egqtuut said:


> Hi Jim
> 
> Mr Picky of Bristol here. Those last two shots are cross-grain, not end grain.
> 
> (NB - I'm not just being picky - you now have an excuse to post even more pictures of your excellent handiwork!)



D'ya know...I said to myself..."leave the post until a more respectable hour" and don't post after a long shift to 11pm, but I was keen to get the results up and look what happens....moron-mode clicks in after midnight! I feel like Cinders!!! :mrgreen: 

Thankfullly I have my fairy-godfather to sort me out! Cheers Andy! :ho2 

Jim

p.s. that's "fairy" in the more traditional sense of the term....before I lose my mate Andy as a friend...don'tcha know......

p.p.s that's "traditional" as in "tutu, lace, tights, fairy wand".... traditional you realise!

p.p.p.s (I'm not sure but I _*think*_ I got away with that one!) :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


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## condeesteso (23 Dec 2011)

I think this really is a great tool, not a revolution but really nice to use and have close by. My own suggestion is 150mm stem, rounded ends (I tap the end on the bench for very small adjustments), and I would fancy a 55mm head, being midway between the first prototype and my second one - but if you have big hands you may prefer slightly bigger and that also extends fence area in contact a little.
Fab work indeed Jim - get building!!


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## Metal_Gazza (10 Jan 2014)

Nice looking and practical... Did you mention a price? (forgive me if I missed it)


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## jimi43 (10 Jan 2014)

Metal_Gazza":3vguxinc said:


> Nice looking and practical... Did you mention a price? (forgive me if I missed it)



I have a number sitting part built...which I had started just before I commenced the great observatory build (yes...another hobby!). 

That will be completed soon and then I will let you know when I get back to finishing these....I also have a huge Richard T infill part built to finish amongst many other projects just waiting for the weather to brighten up a bit.

I'll let you know when I have some finished.

I thought I would have more time now I am semi-retired but I now seem to have less! :mrgreen: 

Jim


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## markturner (13 Jan 2014)

Hi Jimi, the problem is, time is like cupboards...the more you have the more you fill them........

if only you could buy time............

Cheers, Mark


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## AndyT (13 Jan 2014)

markturner":1bdfx4wd said:


> Hi Jimi, the problem is, time is like cupboards...the more you have the more you fill them........
> 
> if only you could buy time............
> 
> Cheers, Mark



Quite so. A wise friend was explaining to me recently that he used to be able to take a week off work and catch up with the things he needed to do. But since he retired, he can't do that, so he is perpetually behind with things!


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