# I need the help of the very clever people that post in here



## Dog (20 Dec 2003)

....How do I make a simple profile sanding block so that I can easily smooth an edge which has been routed using a Classical Cove Cutter (1" x 1/2") ?

Thank you and may you all win the lottery tonight


----------



## Signal (20 Dec 2003)

Joe,


1. take an ice cream tub
2. Line with cling film
3. Take a small section of your profile and wrap in clingfilm
4. Fill container with expanding foam
5. Push moulding into foam so its just below the surface
6. Cover with cling film but not to tight.
7. Leave to dry, can take a a couple of days  

Carefully extract your moulding and trim it up. 
Wrap sand paper round it pushing it into the contours Hey presto custom sanding pad in true blue peter style :lol: 

Signal


----------



## Dog (20 Dec 2003)

Great stuff, thank you Signal


----------



## Alf (21 Dec 2003)

'Course, you could scrape it instead... :wink: 

Cheers, Alf


----------



## Signal (21 Dec 2003)

Ello Alf,

care to enlighten on your scraping method? 

Im all confused, nothing new there eh :? 

Signal


----------



## Alf (21 Dec 2003)

Hey up, Sig,

Well, as always, it depends... :wink: Most of the time a suitable bit of old saw blade filed to a curve slightly faster than the curve I want to scrape is all I use. And an ordinary card scraper for the square bits of course. Occasionally, when time is tight, I have used the moulding cutter itself to scrape the moulding; even router cutters (this doesn't do the edge of your router cutters any favours though  ). I have a feeling because of angles of cut and so forth this doesn't give you quite the correct result, but I'm not absolutely sure of the details of that. Not that I'm suggesting I don't use abrasives, 'cos I do  but you can seem to get a much crisper finish from scraping than sanding, and it's not so messy. And anyway, while you wait for all that foamy stuff to dry you might as well scrape.  

Cheers, Alf


----------



## Dewy (2 Feb 2004)

You forgot the 'sticky back plastic' Signal.

When I was in school (many years ago) we were taught never to use sandpaper. 
The plane should finish the piece off or you werent planing right. 
I always made a beeline for the workbench that had a wooden smoothing plane. 
They had a better feel than the new fangled metal ones.


----------



## Signal (2 Feb 2004)

Dewy,

quite right, but have you ever tried planing a piece of coving or a dado rail :lol: 

Signal


----------



## Dewy (2 Feb 2004)

I don't get that involved. I keep well away from fancy shapes. Not that I dont use my random orbit sander on most pieces but table tops are too big for a plane iron


----------



## Drew (2 Feb 2004)

It depends on how much you have to scrape. As a glass user I have great success using small pieces of glass cut to shape. Its good for acute angles as well, a ready made scraping edge that can be renewed in seconds.

Drew


----------



## Dewy (2 Feb 2004)

You mean that glass is used for something other than holding beer? 
The wonders of modern science. :lol:


----------



## trevtheturner (3 Feb 2004)

Of course it is, Dewy - it works exceptionally well at holding the occasional single malt :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------

