# Finish on green oak



## Loz_grain (6 Aug 2007)

I ave been asked to build a green oak Pergola, with a darker finish on it. I have very little knowledge on putting a finish on and would like some advice please. I will not be sanding or sandblasting the oak.

Thanks in advance

Loz


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## inventor (6 Aug 2007)

The green oak garden work I've done has had no finish. It turns out light grey. Personally, I'd apply no finish, and tell the customer that they should come back in a year or two, and we'll finish it how they want. I'd expect they'd be quite happy with the grey finish by then!

I have done some oak garden stuff with a danish oil finish, but that was seasoned wood, not green. It looks good.


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## Loz_grain (6 Aug 2007)

inventor":qwtz421s said:


> The green oak garden work I've done has had no finish. It turns out light grey. Personally, I'd apply no finish, and tell the customer that they should come back in a year or two, and we'll finish it how they want. I'd expect they'd be quite happy with the grey finish by then!
> 
> I have done some oak garden stuff with a danish oil finish, but that was seasoned wood, not green. It looks good.



Sure thing about the natural finish, I have never been aske3d to stain it before!!! but they are adamant, I have shown them pictures of the green oak work I have done, and how it seasons, but they want it darker. does danish oil work on wood that is not sanded or planed?


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## inventor (7 Aug 2007)

Loz_grain":3ccqboub said:


> ... I have shown them pictures of the green oak work I have done, and how it seasons, but they want it darker. does danish oil work on wood that is not sanded or planed?



I guess it will darken the wood slightly, but I also guess it wouldn't last reliably. Maybe they just want a woodstain. On oak!


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## Sgian Dubh (7 Aug 2007)

Have a look at bitumen or roofing tar. Thinning it with white spirits and slopping it on with a brush might be the answer. I don't imagine there would be much long term protection, but that's the case with all exterior finishing unless there's a regular maintenance regime.

I've never had to do this myself but I've heard of similar techniques being used.

A local Wickes or B&Q might be a source for the raw material to experiment with. Slainte.


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## Mark Hancock (7 Aug 2007)

Loz_grain":2q47ezgw said:


> inventor":2q47ezgw said:
> 
> 
> > The green oak garden work I've done has had no finish. It turns out light grey. Personally, I'd apply no finish, and tell the customer that they should come back in a year or two, and we'll finish it how they want. I'd expect they'd be quite happy with the grey finish by then!
> ...



I've never done it myself but a friend who works a lot in green oak adds spirit dye to the danish oil to create a darker finish.


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## ike (7 Aug 2007)

Why oh why!. I think staining green oak is plain daft. When it naturally splits and cracks the stained surface will just look all the more unnatural. The numpties will then want the cracks filled and stained to match no doubt.

cheers,

ike


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## White House Workshop (8 Aug 2007)

When the numpties pay the bill they call the shots?


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## archersam (17 Apr 2009)

Thought would resurrect an old thread I found in a search rather than starting a new one.....

I am (hopefully) just about to start on a dining table made from new 6cm untreated oak sleeper boards that will have been freshly cut from sleepers. It will be 6 feet long and 125 cm wide. Yes it will be heavy but not as heavy as the 4" thick, 7 foot long and 5 feet wide one he initially wanted. :shock: 

I have not worked with green oak before and wondered the following:
- any tips to make my life a little easier? 
- I would normally use a water based lacquer to finish but I am guessing that this will not be practical for a varierty of reasons including the fact that the surface will naturally crack - any thoughts?

Your wisdom, expertise and guidance muchos appreciated.

Sam
p.s yes I will take lots of pics and create a WIP thread when I get the commission confirmed.


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## MikeG. (17 Apr 2009)

Sam,

if this is for a client, please make him/her very aware of what they will be letting themselves in for by asking for green, rather than seasoned oak.

Green oak is a pure delight to work with, but it will shrink generally about 6% of its width.........up to 10% is possible. It will twist. It will crack massively. Knots will dry up and stand proud. It really isn't suitable at all for furniture.......unless they are after something really wonky and hobbit-hole-ish.

You will not be able to apply a finish at all for many weeks or months, and even then it will only be an oil or possibly wax. Tool marks may turn black. Glue will not properly adhere to green oak.........so how you will edge-joint boards in a table is beyond me!. Incidentally, all your tools will discolour after contact with the tannin.

A final tip..........don't get the dust in your eyes! It is highly acidic and stings like crazy.

Despite that list, I love the stuff! I think it is the most enjoyable form of woodworking possible.......so have fun.............but be very cautious, as this won't be fine furniture!!

Mike


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## archersam (17 Apr 2009)

Mike, 
Thanks for the warnings, this is just what I was after. He wants it to twist and crack and all that, but to be honest I do not think that he really understands what I mean. However I have explained on numerous occassions, he is also a good friend and I know that so long as I keep stressing that this baby is "living" then he will not be upset.

I will leave it unfinished and let him know that it will need time to stabilise. 

Edge jointing. Ah ha. As the table top alone will weigh about 200kgs I am not planning on edge jointing as a) I have no way to manoeuver this weight as I work alone and b) it won't fit into the house due to a tight corner therefore I intend to use threaded rod through all but the end pieces and to tighten them up to clamp together. I will of course sleeve the rod in plastic conduit or hosepipe as I hear that it will discolour the wood overtime. 

The legs will attach to an oversize metal plate that will be rebated into the underneath and then fixed to the table underside. 

In my mind it looks great. LOL. 

p.s thanks for the eyes tip the most, I will make sure I take extra special care when working on it.


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## jasonB (17 Apr 2009)

Why not resaw it from reclaimed old oak posts & beams, these will have the character he wants with far less hastle. I've done it a few times and the clients have been pleased with the results.

The problem with sawing from imported oak sleepers is that they will have been sitting around for a while so the outside will have started to dry out. As soon as you resaw them one side will be a lot moister than the other so they will instantly cup and bow. Better to get them all sawn from fresh oak if you must go the green route. Its not worth trying to save a bit by buying cheaper oak sleeper, they will need more work in the end.

You will also be neared 130kg for soaking wet oak not 200. Use stainless steel studding, washers and nuts.

Jason


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## archersam (17 Apr 2009)

Thanks for the ideas Jason. Daft thing is for about a 3rd more materials cost I can get seasoned 3" oak PAR all I need to do is join it, but it is not what he wants! 

I might take a trip back to the wood yard where I get my good stuff from, explain what I have to do and see if they have any suggestions. 

As it is already have a sleeper that has been split sticked in the workshop and I won't be getting near it for at least a week so will be interesting to see how it moves and all that. 
Sam


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