# Beginners heavyduty(ish) workbench design on a budget.



## Vikash (25 May 2008)

Here's a design for a workbench for the garage. This is the first time I'll be attempting something like this so I would appreciate any advice that might prevent me from making major mistakes.












I'm about to buy a decent router to do my first M&T joints for this project. The timber sizes have been calculated based on the PAR Redwood sizes available in B&Q. I don't have a P/T so this is the only real option I think.

Budget is a large consideration: I'll adjust the depth of the bench to about 600mm and width to 2440mm which means I can make effecient use of a single sheet for the worktop (2x18mm). By my reckoning I can build the table using:
Legs - 2pcs Redwood (75mm x 75mm x 4.8m) @ £8.27 = £16.54
Sides - 6pcs Redwood (20.5mm x 94mm x 3.6m) @ £5.05 = £30.30
Worktop - 1pc MDF (2440mm x 1220mm x 18mm) @ 15.97
Total: £62.81

Not shown on the images, but I'll add a shelf at the bottom from some 12mm ply/mdf or the like.

I want to put a milling machine at one end of the table (which weighs in excess of 135kg) so my first concern is whether the structure looks sound enough? Other than it will be just be a general workbench for the occasional woodworking project.

I'd appreciate any constructive criticism/pointers...


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## Chems (25 May 2008)

What are you planning on using for your desktop Im guessing some sort of ply or something? I made the mistake of using a ply for my first worktop and although its durable enough I wouldnt use anything but a real wood next time around.


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## TheDudester (25 May 2008)

For the top I would use several layers of MDF with a replaceable hard board surface.

Regards

D


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## gatesmr2 (25 May 2008)

Ok i'm a newbie as well and built somthing along the same lines.

The only thing i would say after being moaned at by my ever loving (telling me how it should be done lol) father is i have a shelf under the top to store tools IE router, drills, sanders etc etc.
He decided as people are always looking for somthing to steal i should put a cover (flap) on the front to cover them from prying eyes. :evil: 

Ok for an easy life i did but it turned out to be an amazing idea but for different reasons.
It keeps everything free from dust etc and helps keep leads out of the way.

Sorry if this is obvious advice but as i said i'm a newbie as well, one thing you will find on this forum is a great wealth of info from people who want to help, they have made my life a lot easier. the only problem is the further i get into woodwork the more i enjoy it, maybe it's me but it can be very adictive as well as expensive :shock: 

One more silly thing i spent over an hour making sure it was 100% level time very well spent.

Hope this helps 

Martin


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## Vikash (25 May 2008)

The images in the first post have been updated with new dimensions. The top is now 3x18mm MDF sheets and three shelves added.

Anyone like to hazard a guess as to whether it will comfortably take a constant 200kg? I think it will easily, but I'd like some opinions before ruining some expensive machinery.

Also any advice or alternatives on building it from B&Q's Redwood and MDF?

Thanks for the ideas Martin.


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## NeilO (25 May 2008)

Vikash, thats pretty much how I built mine, with the exception of the centre....As I was given a old pine dresser ( with the top section missing) and was using it to store several bits and bobs in the shop.
And following several threads on workbenches here ( check out Wizer`s for one) used boring old pine again and good old MDF (stable and flat) and knocked one up with that..

had a 18 mm sheet cut into three equal pieces lenghtwise glued them together and then a 12mm MDF sacrificial top to finish that, and used the pine to make the legs..


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## Shultzy (25 May 2008)

Vikash, a couple of comments on your design - make sure you get the height right, 754mm (29.7") seems a bit low for the bench height. It needs to be a comfortable height to stop getting backache - make provision for a vice, the top rail might get in the way.


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## big soft moose (25 May 2008)

i'm building mine tommorow (pretty much to the same design except that i have much wood coming gratis and am adapting design to fit , e.g uprights will be softwood 4x3" )

one thing about your design is that i notice you dont have any diagonal bracing - i'd be inclined to add some across the back to stop your squares from going wibbly and becoming parallelograms under the weight.


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## Grinding One (26 May 2008)

I would use plywood,if your garage is around damp condition the MDF will swell and warp.I also would enclose at least three sides with a piece of plywood.....it keeps stuff you fit under the top from rolling off,heck this things going to be heavy and your not going to be able to move it around much by yourself.A backsplash would help too,I also encorparated a hollow area on my top so I have a place to hold things that roll easily .It keeps them on the table and not on the floor.Finally the plywood wood address the bracing problem nicely.


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## ike (26 May 2008)

Looks well-proportioned. What you want to aim for when its complete is mass - the heavier the better . I went a bit heavier on the sections for mine - 4"x4" legs, 4"x2" bottom rails, 6"x2" top rails (helped to mount large vice) Top is 8"x1-1/2" planks topped with 3/4" ply.

Mortice and tenoning the 4 A frames, and half-lapping the rails to the legs will keep the whole thing nice and stiff. 

cheers,

ike


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## cerdeira (26 May 2008)

Hi,

Just a few comments. Depending on what you're planning to do with the bench, the top stretchers in the base may interfere with clamping. Traditional workbenches usually don't have those. 
I'd also go with a solid wood top: you can laminate several 75x75 pieces to get a sturdy one. It would make easier to install a front vice, which is something you'll definitely want to have.
Someone commented on the height being to low and I agree, I'm 1.80m and my bench is 930mm high. If you're planning to do detail work, for instance carving, you can even make it higher.


J. Cerdeira


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## Benchwayze (26 May 2008)

If you are trying to economise, then for the time being, fit an MDF benchtop, with a sacrificial hardboard work surface, as already suggested. 

Provided you make the underframe strong enough, you can always build a 'proper' benchtop later to fit to the existing base. it should last you forever, or until your methods of working change. 

Get hold of a copy of Chris Schwarz's book, 'Workbenches'. (Reviewed by Woodwhisperer.com.)

The book made me stop and reconsider whether I actually needed the expense of a solid hardwood bench. Schwarz goes fully into the reasons for considering what might seem 'unsuitable species' for a bench; and his reasoning is as sound as his methoids of construction.

Good luck
Regards
John


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## OPJ (26 May 2008)

Grinding One":13mv41gz said:


> I would use plywood,if your garage is around damp condition the MDF will swell and warp.



What about Moisture Resistant MDF? Do you think it is possible this may be better still?


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## gatesmr2 (26 May 2008)

Ok just a thought !!

Your bench has a lip coming down the front and sides etc on the top, i have seen tops like this on the tv (norm etc)

When i made mine i just left it as mdf over size on the front and sides by 25mm, i have braced the top all round with 4x2 mitered on the corners. But for clamping it's perfect only a few mm thick so most normal hand clamps fit. 
I may be being stupid ( not the first time won't be the last :? ) or just tight  smaller hand clamps are a lot cheaper.
Why have such a deep lip, ok it looks a lot better but is there a reason.

I know i should be trying to help but wondered is there a reason for this ?

Martin


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## TheDudester (26 May 2008)

gatesmr2":1mpd534t said:


> Ok just a thought !!
> 
> Your bench has a lip coming down the front and sides etc on the top, i have seen tops like this on the tv (norm etc)
> 
> ...



I was thinking of doing something similar with a bench I am building. In my case I was thinking of just notching a small amount off to allow me to use two small vices I have.

Regards

D


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## jim_hanna (27 May 2008)

I made myself a solid wood workbench with some 70 x 44 mm B&Q pine which they had on offer recently.
Some details and pics are at:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au ... post566610

Good luck with your bench.


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## Vikash (14 May 2009)

Wow, a year on and I still haven't got this project going. The milling machine is still sitting there on the pallet it was delivered on.

But I do have a mitre saw now, and a whole bunch of 2x4s (or 100 x 47mm to be precise).

I don't fancy doing all those M&T's and wanted something that was simpler to make but would still look tidy. This is what I've come up with and plan to start cutting this w/e.

As previously suggested, I'll cover the whole back with sheet ply or similar, and each A-frame will be diagonally braced with a 2x4.

Any advice/opinions would be appreciated.

Edit: What the pic doesn't show is that there will still be 4 A-frames.






Vikash


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## Benchwayze (14 May 2009)

If you don't fancy making mortices and tenons, construct the legs from three pieces of 4 x 1 (100mm x 25mm) laminated to 100 x 75 mm, leaving gaps in the 'lamination' to form mortices where the rails pass through. 

Same with the rails, leaving 'false tenons' projecting. This might even be stronger than tenons, because there's no 'tenon-root' to break. 

Regards
John


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## Anonymous (14 May 2009)

Hi, All
When I did my benches I just used the Paslode. The bench gets knocked , cut and covered in glue and whatever. It is a utility not a piece of furniture. I leave the M/T joints for better things. 
Just my opinion.

Koolwabbit

PS Got given a bench from an old factory. The date, 1935, is engraved underneath and it is still as sturdy as ever. It is assembled with coach bolts. the top is 8x4 and I just replace the top as and when.


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## big soft moose (14 May 2009)

Well since this was first posted ive built mine - then had to take it to bits again on account of getting married and moving house - then i reasembled it , and have now taken it to bits again!! due to getting a new lathe and the subsequent workshop sort out.

this time I'm going to do a propper job (with vices and dogs , and stuff) - though probably not up to olly or lord nibbo standards .


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## Vikash (18 May 2009)

Here's the final design. I've adjusted it since to make it shallower (60cm) and it doesn't show the bracing.







The legs:






An almost complete A frame





V


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## Anonymous (18 May 2009)

Excellent design Vikash. Can I pinch it as I need another bench for my new Forman ?

Koolwabbit


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## Vikash (18 May 2009)

Sure. Let me know how it goes


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## FogggyTown (18 May 2009)

Personally, I'm not too fussed about the type of top on my bench. I used some pressure-treated decking I found on sale for the top base. Then I laid two sheets of 25mm MDF. All I need is level and smooth. I flip the MDF over whenever the top layer gets a bit ropey.


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## OPJ (18 May 2009)

Looks like a sturdy little bench; you should have it finished in no time!  The construction reminds me of my old (current) bench, which I'm looking to get rid of and replace... With all those legs, it's unlike to start rocking or shaking about, I can tell you that much! :wink:


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## Vikash (19 May 2009)

Do they remind anyone else of space invaders?

There's a significant cost difference between MDF and plywood for the top and shelf considering I'll need 2 8x4 sheets (~£50) - so I'm still keen on going the MDF route. Would sealing everything with PVA or varnish not be sufficient?

V


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## Paul Chapman (19 May 2009)

Vikash":klp3mhea said:


> There's a significant cost difference between MDF and plywood for the top and shelf considering I'll need 2 8x4 sheets (~£50) - so I'm still keen on going the MDF route. Would sealing everything with PVA or varnish not be sufficient?



I've posted this picture before but, in case you haven't seen it, here's my bench with an MDF top






I used three layers of 18mm MDF, individually lipped with softwood, then glued together. I just wax it now and then. It's lasted over 10 years and still looks as good as new - and it's remained dead flat.

Not sure what you want to use your bench for but for woodworking I think MDF is a good choice and better than plywood.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Vikash (21 May 2009)

Thanks Paul, that pic was helpful. It's got me thinking about vices and dog holes now. 

Any particular reason for lipping the MDF?


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## Paul Chapman (21 May 2009)

Vikash":3l0eyoz8 said:


> Any particular reason for lipping the MDF?



Two reasons. First, it stops the edges getting damaged in use. Second, when making the top, if you lip the three pieces individually, it helps to keep them straight and flat when you come to glue it all together.

Just thought of the third reason for doing it the way I did. Three layers of MDF are very heavy. By lipping the three pieces individually before glueing the sheets together, it's easier to manhandle (or should that be personhandle these days  ).

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Vikash (22 May 2009)

Thanks for the input ike.
I've specced 2x6's for the 4 cross members - you can see how they join flush to the legs in the design above. Only problem at the moment is finding a local source that stock 2x6 in 2.4m lengths so I can get them in the car easily. Jewsons are the only ones that have them :?

I was considering affixing them with coach bolts instead of just gluing and screwing for the purpose of taking apart. But I figure that if I ever move I'll just have to get several mates round to lift it into the loading van.


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## Vikash (10 Jun 2009)

Just a progress pic:






Ready to start on the worktop now...

V


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## OPJ (10 Jun 2009)

Looks like it's coming together well.  Look forward to seeing what you do with the top.


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## Vikash (16 Jun 2009)

The shelf and worktop added.


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## PeterBassett (17 Jun 2009)

Crikey, that looks fairly sturdy!

Would you mind me asking how much all the materials cost?

Nice work fella!


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## Vikash (17 Jun 2009)

Hmmm, let's see now

- 8pc x 2x4's x 2.4m @ 3.47 each (Wickes)
- 4pc x 6x2's x 3.6m @ 10.15 each (Wickes)
- 2 sheets of 18mm MDF @ 14.98 each (B&Q)

So that's around £100. But then I only needed 2.4m length of 6x2's really, and you could do a fair bit cheaper at other timber/builders merchants. My local ones are just extremely unhelpful with attitude issues and/or have items in lengths too long for me to transport.

If you add the mitre saw, router and shop vac bought to facilitate this, not to mention the garage to workshop makeover, then add another 0.8 - 1k. :shock:


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## Vikash (22 Jun 2009)

Routed a space for bits so they don't roll off, and then varnished with 4 coats of Yacht varnish.

Finished pics:











V


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## mattyd (22 Jun 2009)

looks brilliant! 

how long has it taken so far.....(super newby question) what technique did you use to cut the wood, ie...what saw or what machinery?


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## Fergus (22 Jun 2009)

That looks really good 8) 

I am thinking of building a workbench as mine is currently an 8 x 4 sheet of MDF across a couple of saw horses LOL.with a constinually changing bow or hump ! .So workbench is on the list of jobs to do !


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## OPJ (23 Jun 2009)

Looks like it'll last a while. 

One question though...

Where is your vice?!?


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## Vikash (23 Jun 2009)

Haha yes, good point. I'm on the look out for a cheap second hand vice and still sussing out how and where to mount it.

Matt, it's done mostly on the mitre saw. And the router to sort out the aesthetics a bit.


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## Richiet (22 Jan 2015)

Paul Chapman":4ah5bm52 said:


> Vikash":4ah5bm52 said:
> 
> 
> > There's a significant cost difference between MDF and plywood for the top and shelf considering I'll need 2 8x4 sheets (~£50) - so I'm still keen on going the MDF route. Would sealing everything with PVA or varnish not be sufficient?
> ...



Hi Paul,
I've just sent you an email regarding your bench top before I realised I could quote your post on the site,so,without repeating the email too much, I just wanted to know what your initial treatment of the top layer of mdf was and also is there any truth in needing to treat the underneath of the first layer of mdf to avoid bowing? This is my first workbench build and whilst researching the project I kept coming across your build and your top still looks brand new,I'm hoping to achieve the same.appreciate any help.richard.


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## blackrodd (22 Jan 2015)

Richiet":1o4x78bn said:


> Paul Chapman":1o4x78bn said:
> 
> 
> > Vikash":1o4x78bn said:
> ...




Hello richiet, this post is more than 5 years old, you may not get an answer.
Regards Rodders


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## Richiet (23 Jan 2015)

Cheers rodders, that was my worry but Paul was very quick off the mark with a reply via email. Richard.


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## ajmacleod (23 Jan 2015)

I'd never seen this thread before (I've only been visiting this site sporadically for a few years, much more so recently) but one thing puzzles me - the "issue" of not being able to buy wood in short lengths from the builder's merchant. Why not just take a handsaw along? It's not exactly back breaking work to convert a few 4.8m lengths to 2.4m ones in the car park... They don't look at me strangely for doing so and even offer the use of a saw if necessary (aside from a few months recently where head office had told them to stop in case someone cut their own finger off and sued them!)


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## Vikash (23 Jan 2015)

Nice thread resurrection.

It's been an excellent bench, glad I built it.

Some pics and mods here:
http://garage-makeover.blogspot.co.uk/2 ... bench.html
http://garage-makeover.blogspot.co.uk/2 ... rades.html






V


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## Richiet (23 Jan 2015)

Hi vikash, I should probably apologise for hijacking your thread even though it's been 5 years  ,I'm pleased I got a reply off Paul..................your bench is also a belter but is that a very small buggy or a huge bench?


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## blackrodd (23 Jan 2015)

Richiet":3n3jo288 said:


> Cheers rodders, that was my worry but Paul was very quick off the mark with a reply via email. Richard.




Very pleased to hear you made contact. 
Very helpful bunch on here, Regards Rodders


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