# No sanding, no priming - Annie Sloan paint



## King-Panther (12 May 2015)

Apparently, annie sloan paint can be applied without sanding an object down, or using a primer - is that true? 

If so, what other paint manufacturers do the same?


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## Phil Pascoe (12 May 2015)

They all make paint that can be applied without sanding or primer.


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## King-Panther (12 May 2015)

phil.p":2yt1hycd said:


> They all make paint that can be applied without sanding or primer.



Ok, let me rephrase that - paint that will be great when applied without sanding or usung primer - like annie Sloan is suppose to be?


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## King-Panther (13 May 2015)

Can someone please help me?


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## nev (13 May 2015)

Reading the blurb on the web page page, I read it as it will stick to and cover a surface without sanding or priming, it is a Matt chalk like finish and used for arty olde worlde lime wash type finish for decorative finishing rather than general paintwork.
From experience there is no such thing as a paint you can apply over a rough or poorly finished piece of wood and achieve a wonderful finish. A fine finish is all about the preparation.


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## Andrewf (13 May 2015)

Have used this paint. It does what it says on the tin. However it doesn't give a perfect flat finish that you would get with normal primer gloss etc. But from what i can gather that isn't the sort of finish that it is designed for. My wife has painted several pieces of furniture with it giving it a sort of worn distressed finish. Which it is ideal for. Infact it works better if you are not trying to get a perfect finish. It can also be a bit soft when dried. It is normally finished with a soft wax paste finish, which changes the colours, and the paint work is protected and gets a slight gloss.


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## King-Panther (13 May 2015)

Andrewf":7b5ifdyq said:


> Have used this paint. It does what it says on the tin. However it doesn't give a perfect flat finish that you would get with normal primer gloss etc. But from what i can gather that isn't the sort of finish that it is designed for. My wife has painted several pieces of furniture with it giving it a sort of worn distressed finish. Which it is ideal for. Infact it works better if you are not trying to get a perfect finish. It can also be a bit soft when dried. It is normally finished with a soft wax paste finish, which changes the colours, and the paint work is protected and gets a slight gloss.



No I haven't. Thank you. 

Well, in some pieces I want a perfect finish, in others I want a less perfect finish - like your wife achieved. 

Do you have any recommendations of paints that will give me a perfect finish, without priming and sanding? Or is there no escaping the hard labour?


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## King-Panther (13 May 2015)

nev":r9zyfcle said:


> Reading the blurb on the web page page, I read it as it will stick to and cover a surface without sanding or priming, it is a Matt chalk like finish and used for arty olde worlde lime wash type finish for decorative finishing rather than general paintwork.
> From experience there is no such thing as a paint you can apply over a rough or poorly finished piece of wood and achieve a wonderful finish. *A fine finish is all about the preparation*.



Ive heard that many times, thank you. 

Am I able to paint over a varnished piece of furniture with another type of paint, and get a great finish, or will I have to sand and prime it?


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## nev (13 May 2015)

Down to the individual paints I would say. Most would require at least a light sanding some will require a primer too. The only way to tell would be to read the tin. If the varnish is not flaked or peeling a light sand with some fine paper just to key it would probably suffice, but if it is flaky in places you will need to remove it completely or you'll have a visible step on the new finish.
Have a look at Lonsdale for a chalky alternative to the annie sloan stuff...
http://www.ronseal.co.uk/home/interior- ... alk-paint/


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## Phil Pascoe (13 May 2015)

Do you have any recommendations of paints that will give me a perfect finish, without priming and sanding? Or is there no escaping the hard labour?[/quote]
If it were possible, why would anyone make primers and undercoats let alone anyone use them?


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## King-Panther (13 May 2015)

nev":rsbik3er said:


> Down to the individual paints I would say. Most would require at least a light sanding some will require a primer too. The only way to tell would be to read the tin. If the varnish is not flaked or peeling a light sand with some fine paper just to key it would probably suffice, but if it is flaky in places you will need to remove it completely or you'll have a visible step on the new finish.
> Have a look at Lonsdale for a chalky alternative to the annie sloan stuff...
> http://www.ronseal.co.uk/home/interior- ... alk-paint/



Another great reply - thanks a lot!


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## King-Panther (13 May 2015)

phil.p":2kzsy5s9 said:


> If it were possible, why would anyone make primers and undercoats let alone anyone use them?



According to nev, sanding a priming are required for a slightly damaged, right through to dilapidated pieces of furniture. 

Do you agree?


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## Phil Pascoe (13 May 2015)

Probably, if you don't want it to peel. I've taken gloss off windows that were bare in places (under the gloss) and it goes from one extreme to the other - in one place it'll lift when you look at it, another it sticks like excrement to a blanket.


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## King-Panther (13 May 2015)

phil.p":17rxu2j8 said:


> Probably, if you don't want it to peel. I've taken gloss off windows that were bare in places (under the gloss) and it goes from one extreme to the other - in one place it'll lift when you look at it, another it sticks like excrement to a blanket.



So tell me, when do you think it's ok to not sand and prime, and get a good finish, and when it's unavoidable?


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## Phil Pascoe (13 May 2015)

You're obviously waiting for someone to say there's a way of getting a perfect finish with absolutely no work. Unfortunately life ain't like that - to guarantee a good finish you have to put the work in. If you are after a particular effect, you'll have to experiment - no one else knows all the variables, anyway. If you experiment, make sure you write down exactly what you've done otherwise if you do get it right you'll probably have forgotten what you did, anyway.


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## King-Panther (14 May 2015)

phil.p":pxiodowv said:


> You're obviously waiting for someone to say there's a way of getting a perfect finish with absolutely no work. Unfortunately life ain't like that - to guarantee a good finish you have to put the work in. If you are after a particular effect, you'll have to experiment - no one else knows all the variables, anyway. If you experiment, make sure you write down exactly what you've done otherwise if you do get it right you'll probably have forgotten what you did, anyway.



Ok, thank you. No, I did think I'd have to put some serious work in, until i heard that about annie Sloan - if I can avoid it, why not? 

If I painted an object that has no chips or dents, but is already painted and lacquered/varnished. Can I psibt over it, and get perfect results?

Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to take notes.


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## Sgian Dubh (14 May 2015)

King-Panther":352n8qde said:


> If I painted an object that has no chips or dents, but is already painted and lacquered/varnished. Can I psibt over it, and get perfect results?


That depends on the paint you apply to the existing finish. There may be compatibility issues. For example, applying an emulsion paint over lacquer or oil based gloss paint without any preparation is likely to result in a poor bond leading to the emulsion flaking off: you would need, at minimum, to sand the surface with 80 or 100 grit abrasive to create a key, but even after that, emulsion paint isn't designed to go over this type of finish, and less than optimal bonding is a likely result. Then there may be wax, dirt, grime, silicone or other contaminants on an existing finish to impede a good bond. De-greasing would be a necessity with, for example, white spirits, sugar soap, etc.

In reality, as others have said, the quality of the finish largely depends on the quality of the preparation, although, naturally, the skill expended on finish application has a significant role. Slainte.


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## Phil Pascoe (14 May 2015)

Yes, just take some of the shine off with a fine abrasive - the glossier the surface, the more likely the paint or varnish is to peel. A wash with sugar soap is good, too.


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## King-Panther (14 May 2015)

Sgian Dubh":1nsguir5 said:


> King-Panther":1nsguir5 said:
> 
> 
> > If I painted an object that has no chips or dents, but is already painted and lacquered/varnished. Can I psibt over it, and get perfect results?
> ...



Great, thank you. Yes, I indent to clean them thoroughly, and you recommend White spirit for the task? 

Which paint would sit on top of the laquared/oil based gloss paint/varnished surface?


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## King-Panther (14 May 2015)

phil.p":3sb4acb2 said:


> Yes, just take some of the shine off with a fine abrasive - the glossier the surface, the more likely the paint or varnish is to peel. A wash with sugar soap is good, too.



Ok, are there no paints that will sit on top of the shine? 

Thanks.


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## Phil Pascoe (14 May 2015)

One of the reasons for the shine in the first place is to repel everything.


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## King-Panther (14 May 2015)

phil.p":2vvv7qnu said:


> One of the reasons for the shine in the first place is to repel everything.



That's a good point. 

What about using TSP on top?


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## Phil Pascoe (14 May 2015)

I have no knowledge of that one.


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## King-Panther (14 May 2015)

phil.p":m6qg1dbh said:


> I have no knowledge of that one.



Are you familiar with something similar?


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## Rhossydd (14 May 2015)

phil.p":56chafi9 said:


> I have no knowledge of that one.


 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trisodium_phosphate The active ingredient of sugar soap from what I can see.


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## John Brown (14 May 2015)

My wife painted a pine dresser with Annie Sloan chalk paint. Main reason being that it had been previously waxed, probably BriWax. Anyway, it looks like a pigs ear, but still better than it did, as it's an appalling bit of woodwork made up out of scraps of old pine. She loves it, though, and I her, so I put up with it.


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## Flynnwood (14 May 2015)

King-Panther":3ucb3exn said:


> phil.p":3ucb3exn said:
> 
> 
> > You're obviously waiting for someone to say there's a way of getting a perfect finish with absolutely no work. Unfortunately life ain't like that - to guarantee a good finish you have to put the work in. If you are after a particular effect, you'll have to experiment - no one else knows all the variables, anyway. If you experiment, make sure you write down exactly what you've done otherwise if you do get it right you'll probably have forgotten what you did, anyway.
> ...



Clean/Degrease with sugar soap/meths, and prime as others have said.

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/z/ZINBINA/

Technical data sheet:
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/techdata/z/ZINBINA

Done.


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## King-Panther (14 May 2015)

Flynnwood":2ur4bslj said:


> King-Panther":2ur4bslj said:
> 
> 
> > phil.p":2ur4bslj said:
> ...



Thanks


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## mind_the_goat (15 May 2015)

I think you should maybe you should look at this from a different angle, instead of focussing on paint that requires no preparation, decide what sort of finish you require, then find a paint that give you that, and follow the instructions. 
Chalk paint is generally used where an aged or distressed appearance is required, It's a matt finish but it is generally quite thick (AS is thicker than some other brands) so could cover some imperfections in the underlying surface, it is however very likely to show brush marks, unless you sand them out, but that clearly requires more effort. 
I'm no expert but expecting any surface covering to stick successfully to absolutely anything is more than wishful thinking. Even with Chalk paint I'd make some efforts to de-grease and lightly sand any overly shiny surface.


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