# Glue for Castings



## Rhyolith (1 May 2017)

I broke a small casting, I think iron. As its not that big and the brake is very clean I was thinking I could glue it back together. Whats the best sort of glue for this? Ideally something cheap thats widely available.


----------



## Jacob (1 May 2017)

Somebody mended a snapped in half spokeshave for me by brazing. Seemed to work very well I've still got it 20 years on. I think glue would only be temporary.


----------



## Rhyolith (1 May 2017)

I don't know anyone who could do that for me.


----------



## DTR (1 May 2017)

You could try silver-soldering, which is similar to brazing and is very strong. It can be done at home using a common plumber's blowtorch if it's only a small repair.


----------



## marcros (1 May 2017)

i snapped a casing on a motor mount for my lathe. I used jb weld, and it did exactly what i wanted it to. I got it from ebay, but i think that motor factors may keep it or similar.


----------



## AndyT (1 May 2017)

Assuming it's not under stress, isn't this the sort of thing where cyanoacrylate (superglue) works ok? Or else epoxy, if you can clamp it hard enough to get a thin glue line.


----------



## Rhyolith (1 May 2017)

I don't have any blow torches or welding equipment, the latter is on my long term to get list.

I was thinking maybe some epoxy, but was not sure how well it works on metal. Getting a fine glue line will not be difficult.


----------



## ColeyS1 (1 May 2017)

Following with interest.





J.b weld looks the easiest option so far.
Coley


----------



## adidat (1 May 2017)

coley that looks like its doomed! i doubt a repair would be strong enough for that, I may be able to knock one up on my milling machine.

adidat


----------



## ColeyS1 (1 May 2017)

adidat":2nz7tgdp said:


> coley that looks like its doomed! i doubt a repair would be strong enough for that, I may be able to knock one up on my milling machine.
> 
> adidat


Yeah most likely- I'd only just reground and sharpened it, put it down on my bench to do something and heard a click. I'll try jb weld and if that fails just attack a piece of metal with a file.
I use the plane once in a blue moon, handy to have though...
Cheers 
Coley 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## sunnybob (1 May 2017)

Ryolith.
you have to be sure what it is to make a good repair. If its iron a magnet will stick to it.
If the magnet falls off its most likely alloy. Could even be zinc or just potmetal. Show us a picture.

Epoxy 2 part glue will fix either, but it helps to buy the glue thats specific for the metal.

Check on the instructions what the working time is. Most are 5 to 10 minutes, but some are almost instant stick.

Mix up a lot, spread it well into the crack. Squeeze it tight and leave it alone for at least 24 hours. you can clean off excess afterwards (unless its a complicated piece with fine indents, in which case clean of as much as you can before making the final alignment)


----------



## garethharvey (1 May 2017)

Have literally just finished gluing the posts on my balustrade. This is the stuff I used, it's awesome and incredibly strong. Don't see why it wouldn't work for you: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Loctite-6...al-Adhesive-Retainer-Glue-50-ml-/400322473025

Have used this to glue the top fittings in to the upright posts.


----------



## Lons (1 May 2017)

I used JB Weld to stick tungston carbide tips to 10mm rod for use as the rear ghuides on my Startrite 352 bandsaw, works perfectly.


----------



## Rhyolith (2 May 2017)

sunny bob":1fspacj9 said:


> ...Show us a picture.





Untitled by Rhyolith, on Flickr

Don't ask how that happened... save it to say it was stupid #-o 



garethharvey":1fspacj9 said:


> Have literally just finished gluing the posts on my balustrade. This is the stuff I used, it's awesome and incredibly strong. Don't see why it wouldn't work for you: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Loctite-6...al-Adhesive-Retainer-Glue-50-ml-/400322473025
> 
> Have used this to glue the top fittings in to the upright posts.



This looks like the kind of thing I am after, though it does say its meant for cylinders. Would this matter?


----------



## katellwood (2 May 2017)

Rhyolith":pbdih4v7 said:


> sunny bob":pbdih4v7 said:
> 
> 
> > ...Show us a picture.
> ...




Have you considered a couple of steel dowels to bridge the break prior to gluing/brazing


----------



## Rhyolith (2 May 2017)

I am hoping to get away with just some glue.


----------



## Inspector (2 May 2017)

Rhyolith":2x6av5am said:


> This looks like the kind of thing I am after, though it does say its meant for cylinders. Would this matter?



The Loctite is meant to hold bushings or pins in a hole. It isn't going to work on your broken crank. I doubt structural epoxy like the JB Weld, Devcon, Araldite and Scotch Weld will hold up to use either. Adding pins to the epoxy may work for a little while but there isn't much material to work with to align and drill. If you can remove the wooden handle Silver Braze/Solder will hold as will Tig welding by someone very experienced with cast iron welding. 

Pete


----------



## Rhyolith (2 May 2017)

Inspector":hirmib3h said:


> Rhyolith":hirmib3h said:
> 
> 
> > This looks like the kind of thing I am after, though it does say its meant for cylinders. Would this matter?
> ...


Well i would need someone to do this for me, i don't know anyone who could or would.


----------



## worn thumbs (2 May 2017)

It looks unlikely to succeed to my eyes even if you can get a better epoxy than the stuff sold to the public.Brazing _might _work,if you can find somebody willing to do it.Welding definitely wont work.


----------



## -Matt- (2 May 2017)

worn thumbs":1fwxx6cl said:


> Welding definitely wont work.



I beg to differ and if the OP were closer I would offer to do it for him.


----------



## Keith 66 (3 May 2017)

Araldite will work providing the joint is grease free. Use the original stuff that takes 24 hours to cure not the 5 minute version.
30 years ago i dropped a cast iron Record rebate plane of the deck of a boat i was working on. It landed on its handle & shattered it. I stuck it back together with Araldite, looks dreadful but its still going strong!


----------



## AES (4 May 2017)

+1 for the old, original, Araldite (the 24 hour stuff). BUT, the keys to success are:

1. ABSOLUTE cleanliness to de-grease (e.g. acetone);

2. Make up a "jig" (wooden? ply? sheet metal? - NOT just bound around with gaffer tape or something!) to be sure that the 2 parts are held in complete contact over the full break area, and are fully aligned to allow the full 24 hours setting period, if not a bit longer (for luck). Or, you can also leave it in the oven (if domestic authorities allow) on a low "background" heat (60-80 deg C max) for about 12 hours, NO less. BUT take good care that you have greaseproof paper or similar underneath to catch any run off drips otherwise said domestic authorities will never allow you near the oven again (and ovens are useful bits of kit for repairers and bodgers like me)!

But above all, make sure those crystalline areas on both break surfaces, and the near surrounds, are all absolutely clean before you start and I'd bet beer tokens (a couple anyway) that it WILL work.

Also I repeat, NOT the "modern" 5 min epoxies of any brand - it MUST be the original 24 hour Araldite.

AES


----------



## Rhyolith (7 May 2017)

Thanks for the input.

I decided to try something I think is similar to the Araldite stuff (closest thing my local store had), went for the slow setting version as suggested (its easier to get the positioning right as well as anything!). 

Glued it up a few days ago. I had kept the brake clean (intentionally) so went straight on and found a way to squish it nicely in a big vice that lined it up as it should be, did it up nice an tight and left for 24 hours in the vice. The result seems good so far, though its yet to subject to a drilling test:



Millers Falls No.4D by Rhyolith, on Flickr


----------



## AES (7 May 2017)

Looks good Rhyolith, hope it withstands the working test.

I'm somewhat disturbed that you did NOT de-grease (breaks are NEVER as clean as one thinks, no matter how careful one is), but fingers crossed anyway.

The only reason I specified actual Araldite 24 hour is because it's the only "slow set" epoxy I've ever used. But as said, looks good. BTW, if there's any squeeze out (can't see any) you can gently file it smooth with smooth file, and even re-paint afterwards if desired.

AES


----------



## AndyT (7 May 2017)

If it's not strong enough to actually use, I guess you're going to have to buy another drill as well!


----------



## wallace (9 May 2017)

I bought a very rare wadkin planer setting tool a few years ago and it came to me broken because of crappy packaging. I used a two part metal apoxy. Because it was cast iron the break was clean with no distortion. Still solid after 3 years, it doesn't receive any stress or force which would be my concern with yours.


----------

