# Advice please - Adjusting Elektra Beckum planer/thicknesser



## Sawdust (23 Jan 2006)

Can anyone help,

I have an Elektra Beckum HC260 planer thicknesser which has had fairly light use. Generally it works really well but occasionally the drive slips when thicknessing so the wood just stops. I can pull it through and usually the rollers then grip again and all is well. I've checked the belts etc and I know the rollers are still turning but they are slipping on the wood.

What I'm trying to find out is if the rollers are adjustable and if so how to do it.

There are four adjustment bolts under the thicknessing bed but as far as I can tell, all these do is adjust the tension of the springs which pull the rollers down. It doesn't seem to be possible to adjust the roller position relative to the cutters.

The thicknessing table is clean and smooth so I don't think the wood is sticking on the table.

I suppose it's possible that the outfeed (rubber) roller needs cleaning. Can anyone advise what to clean it with?

Thanks in advance for any help

Mike


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## tim (23 Jan 2006)

Mike,

I have one of these and had a similar problem recently. I did clean the rollers but I also took the cover off on the 'back' side and cleaned in there with an airhose. I also tightened up a couple of things and lubricated something - what, I can't remember, but it was in the manual.

I didn't actually find that much dust or tighten/ lubricate much but it did the trick.

Sorry to be so vague but I don't have the manual in front of me and I'm not that mechanically minded.

Cheers

Tim


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## Offcut (23 Jan 2006)

Mike,
I have the same thicknesser and when I get a bit of slip I just wax the thicknesser bed - usually works a treat.

Andy


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## CYC (23 Jan 2006)

I have the Thicknesser EB DH330 and this happened to me for the first time at christmas. I realised that, like Offcut, lubricating the bed has sorted the problem. Pheww :roll:


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## Sawdust (23 Jan 2006)

Thanks for the advice.

I think I'll give it a good clean out and put some wax on the bed.

One other thing, the handle that adjusts the height of the table squeaks like hell, what's the best lubricant for the threads?

Thanks again
Mike


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## Chris Knight (23 Jan 2006)

The safest lube for worshop stuff with exposed threads is PTFE spray. Regular oils and greases attract sawdust like a magnet and will soon be worse than when you started. Silcone containing lubes can contaminate wood surfaces and mess up the application of finishes.


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## les chicken (23 Jan 2006)

Mike

I have the same machine and a regular dose of polish/wax on the bed keeps it running free. The stuff I use is sold by EB and is compatible to the aluminium bed, not in the workshop and cannot remember the name but it is good stuff and does not interfere with finishes. As Chris stated PTFE spray is the best for the adjusting screws.

Les


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## Der_Goalie (24 Jan 2006)

les chicken":61iuysq8 said:


> Mike
> 
> I have the same machine and a regular dose of polish/wax on the bed keeps it running free. The stuff I use is sold by EB and is compatible to the aluminium bed, not in the workshop and cannot remember the name but it is good stuff and does not interfere with finishes. As Chris stated PTFE spray is the best for the adjusting screws.
> 
> Les




The EB wax is called Waxilit and I think it's available in 75g or 1kg tins.


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## neilc (24 Jan 2006)

I had the same problem but it was the belt in my case. You could carefully run a test piece with the guard off the belt section to see is the belt slipping. The belts do give problems as can be seen here. Hope this helps.
neilc

PS yours is the same as the above thread with a different badge.


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## Anonymous (24 Jan 2006)

I have the Fox P/T that turns out to be the same machine ,just rebadged, and had the same prob just before Xmas. Tried waxing which usually works but not this time. Took the back cover off and found that one of the cog shafts had sheared. Got onto Hamilton`s who told me it was a known problem and was caused by the cog coming loose. Advise that you check that everything that should be tight is. Parts were replaced FREE but `DOWN-TIME` very costly.


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## Der_Goalie (25 Jan 2006)

koolwabbit":1bxd0o1l said:


> I have the Fox P/T that turns out to be the same machine ,just rebadged,




Sorry kw but they're not the same machine.


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## Sawdust (25 Jan 2006)

> Sorry kw but they're not the same machine.



I was under the impression that the EB and perform machines are similar but that the EB is a better built and rated machine. The Perform is sold with a hobby rating whereas the EB is trade rated.

Does anyone know what the differences are?

If they are the same then maybe Rutlands will refund the difference !!

Cheers
Mike


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## tim (25 Jan 2006)

There will always be a long running debate about 'badging' and inferiority etc. 

You are unlikely to get anyone to say what the differences are and it is possible that these products are made in the same factories - but it is most likely that while the designs maybe similar or even identical, it is highly probable that some components are made to different specs and standards. 

The chinese are damned good at copying stuff but they don't necessarily replace like for like. To you or me, it may look the same but the key factor is in its performance.

If these two items are identical then I am surprised that Fox don't say this on their blurb. I would if I was them. 

When I worked in the drinks business we used to make a lot of the 'own label' brands for supermarkets that would necessarily appear to compete with our own premium branded products - often in similar packaging, label styles and similar taste profiles. However, they weren't the same, or priced the same but it added profit to both businesses because some consumers would buy these when they wouldn't pay for or couldn't afford the branded, premium product. I'm fairly confident that this market is the same.

Cheers

Tim


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## Der_Goalie (25 Jan 2006)

Sawdust":3ueitkwb said:


> > Sorry kw but they're not the same machine.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Granted they do appear very similar, however the main differences are basiclly EB source a higher spec switch & motor. Some of the parts are also used in other machines in the EB range - as an example the sliding carriage for on of their spindle moulders uses on of the tables from the planer thicknesser.


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## Jake (25 Jan 2006)

Are they made in the same factory at all? I was always under the impression that the clones were knock-offs, rather than rebadged as such. The EB planer has been around a lot longer than the clones, and if I were EB/Metabo, I wouldn't be at all happy if my supplier was knocking off the design.


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## Der_Goalie (25 Jan 2006)

Jake":rd1od3kd said:


> Are they made in the same factory at all? I was always under the impression that the clones were knock-offs, rather than rebadged as such. The EB planer has been around a lot longer than the clones, and if I were EB/Metabo, I wouldn't be at all happy if my supplier was knocking off the design.



The parts are German although not all made by EB (the switch & motor are sourced from another german supplier). The previous model was assembled in Germany, however due to labour cost this assembly process was later switched to EB's own factory in china. They don't use a supplier in China as they have their own factory, however this makes it easier for other companies to produce copies without really being held accountable.


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## Rogerthedodger (1 Feb 2006)

I have contributed albeit tagged onto this thread rather than start a new one. Hopefully, there is sufficient recent interest in this machine model lately to give me a quick answer. I have wasted a precious day xxxxing about with my EB HC260 P/T so I hope for some clues so I don't waste tomorrow.

I have had this P/T for some months and I am now squaring loads of rough planed stock to pretty exacting requiremenst. I understand how to set the planer knives but feel that the EB manuals could be more detailed in their instructions. The nub of the problem is that today (having fitted new blades) I have noticed that in planer mode the finished work (whilst beautifully planed) is bevelled in that the "straight" edge is concave - both the leading and trailing sections of the length have more taken off.

Having messed about with the knife settings for ages, I noticed that there are two grub screws fitted to the mountings of the outfeed table that affect the alignment of this table in relation to the infeed and cutter block. Having played about with this, I notice that adjusting the alignment of the O/F table affects the setting of the knives (measured as a max figure over the height of the O/F). Mercifully, it then got too dark (besides being perishing freezing today - yes I do not have the luxury of an ondoor w/s - mine is the back garden  ). 

Clearly, something has changed as this problem has not always been the case. Previous planing has been dead straight althougth I have experienced occasional rear end planing snipe. Also, it is highly likely that the problem is due to the table alignment as this snipe disappeared completely today.

I feel that the main problem is that the EB manuals do not give anywhere near enough information about their machines for the bits that the user can easily change. I have a EB bandsaw and have come across this problem with that machine.

The nitty gritty. 

Is there a standard rule that applies to the alignment of the O/F table in comparison to the infeed ie should it slope up/down or be dead level?? 

Or - Is there an owner of this model that has come across this problem?

Second, In the manual the detail of the planer alignment setting is about as detailed (to quote Basil Fawlty) as the Italian book of war heroes (or for our italian wood workers he said back peddling - the english book of great lovers.)

I use a heavy straight edge and two feeler gauges .002 and .004 (the smaller one goes under the straight edge but the bigger one will not - knife set!. The problem is that this is a waste of time if the table alignment is not set first as this, understandably, changes the knife setting. 

Clearly, a patient time honoured approach is called for but the adjusting hammer is within easy reach!! :shock: .Your advice and comments all welcome.


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