# Surface Planing Jig For Thicknessers



## ByronBlack (30 Oct 2008)

I'm after some idea's for a jig to take out cup/bow/wind from boards using my thicknesser. 

I'm going to use a flat-bed made from MDF as the main base, and was thinking of using some threaded bolt to adjust the height to present a non-rocking board to the thicknesser blades, but I'm wondering is that enough? Should the board be held down with screws from the underside or some other form of clamping? Will the thicknesser disrupt the board that much if it just supported underneath with theaded bolts?

TIA


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## OPJ (30 Oct 2008)

Apologies for linking to another site but, I think Ben Plewes made a good effort here.

Always make the sure the timber is supported beneath (inside) the cup or bow, otherwise the rollers will just squash if flat an it'll only spring back again! :roll:


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## gidon (31 Oct 2008)

BB - FWW had an article on this a while back:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ ... x?id=24118
(if you don't have subscription PM me)
and here is a accompanying video (no sub necessary):
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ ... px?id=5245
I've done it before (well actually for tapering a board) just with some wedges hot melt glued in appropriate places.
Cheers
Gidon


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## ByronBlack (31 Oct 2008)

Chaps, thats great, thanks!

I like the FWW's one with the use of wedges, thats an elegant solution, I'll see what I knock up over the weekend


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## woodbloke (31 Oct 2008)

ByronBlack":oifzjmaf said:


> I'm after some idea's for a jig to take out cup/bow/wind from boards using my thicknesser.
> 
> I'm going to use a flat-bed made from MDF as the main base, and was thinking of using some threaded bolt to adjust the height to present a non-rocking board to the thicknesser blades, but I'm wondering is that enough? Should the board be held down with screws from the underside or some other form of clamping? Will the thicknesser disrupt the board that much if it just supported underneath with theaded bolts?
> 
> TIA



BB - without looking at the links or jigs that others have done, this is generally regarded as 'bad practice' It's far easier to take out wind/twist/bendy wood defects on the surface planer (ie over the top) rather than to construct some sort of jig to do it underneath - Rob


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## ByronBlack (31 Oct 2008)

Hi Rob,

I agree with your sentiments, and this is how I would do it if i had a jointer, which at present I don't. And the boards I wish to flatten are too big to realistically correct with hand-planes given the lack of time I get in the workshop and given their size, also, the boards would be too large for a surface jointer in this instance, so I'm having to find a work around. But I wouldn't use this as a complete replacement for a jointer in the longterm.


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## woodbloke (31 Oct 2008)

ByronBlack":en9jci9h said:


> Hi Rob,
> 
> I agree with your sentiments, and this is how I would do it if i had a jointer, which at present I don't. And the boards I wish to flatten are too big to realistically correct with hand-planes given the lack of time I get in the workshop and given their size, also, the boards would be too large for a surface jointer in this instance, so I'm having to find a work around. But I wouldn't use this as a complete replacement for a jointer in the longterm.



BB - apologies... I still thought you had 'el rusto' but I now recollect that it's no more, it's shuffled, deceased etc :lol: (you know the rest from Python) in which case you'll need to adopt other strategies if the boards are large and all you've got is a thicknesser - Rob


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## ByronBlack (31 Oct 2008)

Aye, unfortunately, el-rusto has gone the way of the dodo, but hopefully there should be a nice shiny replacement in the near future.


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## wizer (31 Oct 2008)

Also without looking at the links, I am sure I have seen one that uses bolts instead of wedges. You just adjust the height of the bolts all over the jig to get it perfectly level. I did extensive research on it when had my DW733 but then decided to buy the Jet.


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