# Decking Project - finished



## Tierney (21 Jul 2009)

I had a bit of a nightmare with a local timber merchant, he said he would deliver monday morning eventually got here at 2pm today after several phone calls.

I asked for 3*2 treated timber for the joists; but, got 6*2 that was ripped down the middle, leaving one edge exposed. Doesn't this make it a bit pointless having the other sides treated? I know 3*2 may not be a standard size; but, still feel let down.

I might use end grain treatment on the ripped edge.

DT


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## Karl (21 Jul 2009)

DT - just apply treatment to the exposed edge. But 3 x 2 sounds too weedy for use as joists to me - I tend to use 6x2's.

Cheers

Karl


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## Tierney (21 Jul 2009)

Karl, Thanks for the advice. I used 3*2 to avoid excavating too much; but, I'm going to put a small slab on concrete approx. every 500mm which I'm hoping will give enough rigidity and keep the timber off the ground.


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## oddsocks (21 Jul 2009)

Tierney - when I did my decking frame a few years ago I needed to support the frame as the land sloped. The cheapest way I found was to use 4" drainpipe on firm soil and/or old slab and this pipe was cut to fit under the selected parts of the frame and then filled these with postcrete. This was fast and reasonably economical and is still good now (I had to replace some decking planks last week and could see the underframe and posts were still fine)

Dave


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## Oldman (21 Jul 2009)

Tierney, may I suggest no more than 400mm 16" joist centers, I used 32mm thick decking boards and any further than that and they got springy. Also with 3x2" put plenty of ground supports or that will also be bouncy.

Just finished mine recently and fell into both those traps when using 3x2 low to the ground.


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## oddsocks (22 Jul 2009)

Oldman":2bisjomf said:


> Tierney, may I suggest no more than 400mm 16" joist centers, I used 32mm thick decking boards and any further than that and they got springy. Also with 3x2" put plenty of ground supports or that will also be bouncy.
> 
> Just finished mine recently and fell into both those traps when using 3x2 low to the ground.



I've just checked mine and the screws are 450mm spaced on a frame of 100x50 - so the air gap between joists is 400mm. This gives a firm fixing for 25mm decking. I had walked on decking with 600mm spacing and it was bouncy


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## Tierney (23 Jul 2009)

Thanks, I'll space the joists 385mm between each one and make sure I support the joists on old slabs in concrete at each joint or 500m gap. I've gone for 19 * 140 Ipe decking; which hopefully won't be too springy. The Ipe cost £5.50 per metre ex. VAT.

Photos to follow - hopefully Sunday evening, but, I am always over optimistic of what I can achieve!

DT


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## Tierney (28 Jul 2009)

Made some progress at the weekend and got the frame built - finished at 10pm and picked up some insect bites in the process - I'll post WIP photos soon; but, have a few questions:

1) I was told that I should use stainless steel screws to attach the Ipe decking to avoid staining the wood; I've got some normal galvanised screws and green coated 'organic' screws - do I need to go and buy stainless steel?
2) Anyone heard of or used a product called Seasonite
3) I was thinking of using 10mm spacing between each 140mm board - any thoughts?


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## Karl (28 Jul 2009)

Hi

Don't bother with SS screws - I use the green coated ones and haven't had any problems with staining. 

Seasonite - never used it - is it a decking treatment?

10mm spacing between boards is too much. I'd go for about half that.

Cheers

Karl


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## Oldman (29 Jul 2009)

I'm with Karl on the spacing, 10mm is much too much and you will spend your time on the deck hating the view through it. I made mine 5mm, it was recommended to me that pro's use 6" nails as spacers when placing the boards.
I also found that pre drilling the board then screwing down gave a more satisfying finish rather than just ramming a screw through. Of course I had the luxury of it being my own time as it took over twice as long to fix down doing it that way.

As to treatment, Seasonite looks to be expensive at £14/ltr.

I used Cuprinol clear decking protector on all cut ends and would have treated the whole finished deck with it too but I wanted a stain colour that wasnt available in protector so used Cuprinol shed and fence preserver for the initial treatment and once the deck has weathered for a few weeks in the sun I shall finish it off with Cuprinol clear decking protector as a second coat as it has anti slip components not in the shed preserver.

Oh and screws...I found the Screwfix 1300 green deck screws for £19 in a tub to be really good quality and value for money.

Good luck with your project.


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## Tierney (11 Oct 2009)

finished a while ago; but, haven't had time to upload the photos.

Karl, oldman and oddsocks; thanks for the advice - I went with a 6mm gap in the end; which still looks a bit big.

wip showing the frame supported on small slabs and how it hides wiring for lighting & pond pump









finished product; the decking is Ipe fastened with stainless steel screws (which cost a fortune; but, the boss liked them) and finished with seasonite; which I'm very happy with.









Thanks for looking

DT


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## Karl (11 Oct 2009)

Nice work DT. I see why you wanted to use 3x2's now. 

Cheers

Karl


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## Mr Ed (11 Oct 2009)

Looks good.

I'd be interested to see how the Ipe decking weathers - I've always used softwood due to cost / availability but I'm sure hardwood is a better proposition.

Ed


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## Oldman (11 Oct 2009)

Looks good, yes 6mm would look big, I can see through my 5mm gap and sometimes think its too much.
Any weed control under there? Matting or shingle? If not I think you may be weedkilling there next spring :wink:


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## Mr Ed (11 Oct 2009)

I went for 4mm and it looks about right to me

Ed


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## Tierney (11 Oct 2009)

I didn't put down anything to stop the weeds; but, am now beginning to regret it; particularly after seeing Ed's work (which looks great). I guess I'll see in spring time

The place I bought the Ipe from said it will weather naturally to a pleasant driftwood/silver grey if left untreated; which, I understand is similar to Iroko. The reason I chose this over softwood was more to do with the look rather than durability, it is a nice dark brown colour, non-grooved surface with a rounded edge. SWMBO wanted a 'Miami' style garden.

DT


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