# Chainsaw Sharpening



## 9fingers (26 May 2009)

I've just bought a small electric chainsaw to cut up railway sleepers.

It does a great job but already after 15-20 cuts, I'm noticing it is slower cutting so I guess the chain is starting to lose it edge.
I see there are a number of different sized files, 4mm, 4.8mm, 5.5mm. (or their respective imperial equivalent
These files are round and yet each tooth on my chain has two cutting edges notionally at right angles so I would have expected a square file being needed to do the job.

The chain is a link size 90, 52 links 0.375" pitch.

Can any chainsaw users help me through the fog of chain sharpening please?

TIA

Bob


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## joiner_sim (26 May 2009)

1. turn the chain saw on.
2. hold a sharpening stone in your free hand
3. gently angle the chainsaw at 25 degrees
4. sharpen away 

:lol:


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## Doug B (26 May 2009)

Bob.
Might be worth posting this on the woodturning forum, there are quite a few chainsaw users on there, that might not look on here.


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## Paul Chapman (26 May 2009)

Hi Bob,

It's not difficult - even I can do it  

You need to do it little and often. There's a fairly good video here http://www.expertvillage.com/video/2751 ... -chain.htm

And this one, which is probably a little better http://www.expertvillage.com/video/8069 ... manual.htm

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Night Train (27 May 2009)

Good videos there. I watched them before I ventured into sharpening my chainsaws and now have no hesitation in honing the edge regularly when cutting logs.

I bought a sharpening set that consisted of a round file, a flat file and a guide plate.

The round file cuts the curved part of the cutter and also the straight part at the same time. The round file needs to be at the correct angle to do this.

As the cutting edge is sharpened over time it retreats and becomes shorter. The none cutting part of the chain following limits the depth of cut and so may need filling down with the flat file to bring the depth of cut back again.


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## sometimewoodworker (27 May 2009)

9fingers":39i897my said:


> I've just bought a small electric chainsaw to cut up railway sleepers.
> 
> It does a great job but already after 15-20 cuts, I'm noticing it is slower cutting so I guess the chain is starting to lose it edge.
> I see there are a number of different sized files, 4mm, 4.8mm, 5.5mm. (or their respective imperial equivalent
> ...



First I would get yourself a guide plate together with the round and flat files that are needed. You will often find these as a set. Depending on your usage you may well need a few round files. Then the most important point when hand sharpening is to use the same number of file strokes on each tooth. If you don't the chain will start pulling to one side, you may be able to correct this on the next sharpening if you cant then assuming the teeth still have enough metal to sharpen it is time to get it professionally sharpened.

The second point is that if you sharpen when needed you will need only 1, 2 or 3 strokes of the round file. If you need more then you probably left it too long.

other posters have given good advice


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## big soft moose (27 May 2009)

9fingers":3rigb80m said:


> These files are round and yet each tooth on my chain has two cutting edges notionally at right angles



can you post a picture bob - i'm a proffesional chainsaw user and ive *never* encountered a chain with two cutting edges at right angles. the bit that does the cutting is the curved bit on the under face of the "chisel" bit of the chain , which is what you ought to be sharpening.

two other things to bear in mind

1) when you sharpen you need to also reduce the height of the "depth guage" (the little sticky up bit in front of the chisel on each tooth) - one stroke with a flat file ought to be sufficient.

and

2) if your railway sleepers are reclaimed stock it is normal to need to sharpen regularly , as ex railway timber always has lots of ingrained gravel and grit in the surface which will dull your chain very quickly. t is also common to find bits of embeded metal which can royaly screw up your chain. (this is also true of power planer blades)

I normally jet wash the surface then sand it down with a 40 grit pad in a ROS to remove the worst of the rubbish before i start cutting.


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## misterfish (27 May 2009)

Bob

The whole system of chainsaw chains I find confusung - every manufacturer has their own identification system. 

For your chains you need something like http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk/saw-c ... 2045-p.asp which gives all the basic bits you need in a storage folder.

This site is actually good value for replacement chains and they deliver quickly (in your case http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk/38-lp ... 2079-p.asp )

Jeff


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## kityuser (27 May 2009)

9fingers":3l78hvxh said:


> I've just bought a small electric chainsaw to cut up railway sleepers.
> 
> It does a great job but already after 15-20 cuts, I'm noticing it is slower cutting so I guess the chain is starting to lose it edge.
> I see there are a number of different sized files, 4mm, 4.8mm, 5.5mm. (or their respective imperial equivalent
> ...



bloody hell a chain saw? do you mean the "softwood one" you can buy at garden centres?
if they are "true" sleepers I would'nt go near them with a chainsaw, they are full of 
1) metal
2) stone
3) tar/pitch
4) dust, dirt, 

anyone whoes used a chainsaw cutting near the ground knows that AS SOON as you cop a stone or some dirt, thats your lot...... the tree surgen I used to work with had an old "ground work" saw especially for cutting trunks close to the ground for this exact reason

I`ve done several sleeper jobs in my time, including ALOT of raised beds for a local old age pensioners home (so they could "potter in the grounds whilst in wheel chairs), a few hundred used there..... 

and






around 50 used here (not all shown) all from south africa, all oak and a REALLY dense purple wood. They were FULL of metal/stone and grit. Theres sleepers on end concreted in which the facing ones are bolted to. To drill them we ended up using an SDS drill with masonary bits.....

I tend to use a reciprocating/sabre saw bought from axminster, not in the catalogue anymore however I use these blades:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... 1&jump=144
they are advertised as "wood with metal in".
Lots of cuts involved in the picture above, the blades lasted roughly 2 cuts per blade.

I wouldn't have tried to use a chainsaw..... not worth the agro

Steve


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## Yetty (27 May 2009)

Bob,

I understand the chainsaw fog, been there and it can look a bit confusing.

Have a close look at the “*Oregon Electric Sure Sharp*” cost about £31.00. 
e.g. http://www.willisandgrabham.co.uk/garde ... afety=1271

I’ve used one for years with numerous chains and a few saws. 

I can really recommend. It’s magic. Easy, quick and machine sharp chains.

Runs from 12volts. Comes with 3 stone sizes. Pick the size to suit your chain. 
Recommend buying some spare stones just in case you break the stone fitted. 
I buy Dremel stones, 3 in a pack, all same size, about £6. 
I generally fit a new stone when fitting a new chain, so plenty of sharpenings to be had. 

Only takes a couple of minutes to sharpen the chain. 
Sharp chain = safer cutting, also sharp chain = reduced wear on chain links and saw drive sprocket. 
I normally sharpen with each refill of petrol – forces me to take a longer breather, making me safer when cutting again.

Hope that helps and safe cutting!


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## 9fingers (27 May 2009)

big soft moose":9zhqqg80 said:


> 9fingers":9zhqqg80 said:
> 
> 
> > These files are round and yet each tooth on my chain has two cutting edges notionally at right angles
> ...



Here goes with some photos.
Firstly the part number of the chain. The upper number is almost certainly the Bosch part no (it is a Bosch AKE35s Saw) and the lower one the Oregon part no.

Making a huge assumption maybe 90SG means the tooth has a square gullet??






Side view of one tooth and depth limiter plus shark fin






Rear view of the tooth showing the right angled section rather than round. Apologies for the rather poor focus on this. In combination with the previous picture the the right angle seems quite clear though





If I were to file this with a round file it would only touch at two points on the cutting edges.

Top view of the tooth - chain travels in the upwards direction.






I assume the long black links either side of the cutting teeth are designed to limit the depth of cut and need also to be filed down but should I also be filing the small 'shark fin' shaped tooth immediately preceding each cutting tooth?


As regards your comments Kity User, I am lucky to have the opportunity to get Bosch tools very very cheaply when 'graded' stock comes up and they had chainsaws in stock at the right time. It was less than 20% of the price of the sleepers and might just come in handy for other garden butchery in the future. The sleeper job is done now and I just wanted to put the saw away, cleaned and sharp ready either for the next job or to sell on as "used, nearly new" 

To be honest, the very low prices of the chains Misterfish has pointed too, I might just as well buy a new chain for less than the cost of a sharpening jig but that goes against the grain of wanting to understand and be able to sharpen tools.

Bob


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## 9fingers (27 May 2009)

Thanks for the link Yetty. Certainly looks interesting if I was going to be a regular user. As it happens it costs more than the saw cost me but that is not a fair comparison for most users.

If I get into green wood turning one day then I might re-visit chainsaw use but for now I just want to pack it away, clean & sharp for the next time I might need it.

Bob


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## big soft moose (27 May 2009)

bob

you sharpen the vertical bit of the tooth with the round file so that it has an edge - yours looks exceptionally blunt 





with the chain vertical (on the saw normally) you use the round file horizonal but at an angle the same as the edge of the tooth.





then you use the flat file to reduce the height of the depth limiter (what you refer to as a sharks fin) so that it is 1-2mm less than that of the tooth so that the blade can cut - if its not reduced enough the saw will make dust not chip , while if you reduce it too much the saw will go blunt very quickly.

the links either side of the tooth are lower than the cut and have nothing to do with limiting the depth of cut - they are there to hold the chain together - so dont for gods sake file them.

( btw as you arent that far away if you get up this way - drop me a pm first , and we'll arrange for you to drop in for a sharpening lesson - its a lot easier to do show and tell.)


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## wizer (27 May 2009)

9fingers":2yz8obkz said:


> or to sell on as "used, nearly new"



Interested.


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## DaveL (27 May 2009)

wizer":3hj8ev58 said:


> 9fingers":3hj8ev58 said:
> 
> 
> > or to sell on as "used, nearly new"
> ...



Tom,

With your tag line is this a good idea? :roll: :wink:


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## 9fingers (27 May 2009)

big soft moose":14w5cwwf said:


> bob
> 
> you sharpen the vertical bit of the tooth with the round file so that it has an edge - yours looks exceptionally blunt
> 
> ...




Thanks very much. I get a the correct size file and have a go. I have now downloaded an Oregon manual and with your help the fog is clearing! Cheers

Bob

Bob


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## big soft moose (27 May 2009)

note that its the round file you use on the tooth not the flat - I had a brain fart moment while typing that - ive edited it now. 

also you sharpen the chain while its still on the saw - I put the saw on the ground and kneel astride it , but others prefer to put the bar in a metal workers vice, then make sure the chain break is off and use the file to push the chain round as you sharpen each tooth ( I use a crayon to mark the first tooth i sharpen so that i can tell when they are all done.)

also note that most chains have teeth facing both left and right - i'd do all the right ones first then swap hands and go back to do the left one - and sharpen all the teeth before you go round again and do the depth guages

finally make sure you wear a glove on the hand holding the file as if you slip is possible to give yourself a nasty cut on the sharp blade (only done that once or twice  )


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## thejhw (27 May 2009)

Perhaps one thing to note: give each and every tooth exactly the same number of strokes as all the others. I find the best way is simply two strokes to each tooth, right first then left, then check them all for a nice hook. If any of them need more sharpening, go right around the whole chain again.
You can tell when a chain needs sharpening; the waste you get is quite large chips when the blade is sharp, going finer and getting slower as the blade dulls. When you have sawdust, it's time to sharpen.

Jim


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## dickm (27 May 2009)

Another vote for the Oregon electric sharpener - I only paid 20p for mine from a carboot sale, but it's well worth the £31 mentioned if you use a chainsaw more than very occasionally. And especially if you're cutting reclaimed timber


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## lurker (28 May 2009)

I buy Dremmel chain saw stones from Axminster - 2 for 3 quid I think

This I fit in my cheapo Woolies Dremmel lookalike

Takes a few light touches per tooth 
On the bar as BSM says

Like everything else sharpen before it gets bad

The angle is fairly obvious when you look closely- I tend to do every other one & then turn the bar around for the others (have a look at the chains & you will see what I mean)


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