# How To Sharpen A Bill Hook?



## custard (3 Aug 2010)

Anyone any suggestions how to go about sharpening a curved bill hook?


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## CHJ (3 Aug 2010)

I've always used a 'Stone' (available from most agricultural suppliers.












Swing it side to side as I'm doing here on a Brushing Hook, like you would use a Knife sharpening Steel.

(My bill hook was buried deeper in the shed.)


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## matthewwh (3 Aug 2010)

Hold the blade still and use a cylindrical sharpener - cigar stone, diamond file, steel etc.


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## paulm (4 Aug 2010)

matthewwh":mp3nqfvx said:


> Hold the blade still and use a cylindrical sharpener - cigar stone, diamond file, steel etc.



You can also use some abrasive paper wrapped around a section of broom handle or similar dowel, and go down a few grades if you want to refine the edge, but a stone or coarse abrasive should be fine really for a working edge on the tool.

Cheers, Paul


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## bugbear (4 Aug 2010)

custard":1jpjiz5l said:


> Anyone any suggestions how to go about sharpening a curved bill hook?



If it's very blunt, a bench grinder might be useful, although you need an awful lot of clearance to get the blade presented at the right angle, especially if the handle is long.

I find (when restoring horticultural tools) that a 4 1/2" (AKA "small") angle grinder is helpful, but delicacy of touch, and copious efforts with cooling water are essential.

Final sharpening is with a stone (or "rub"). Don't over do the sharpening, and don't make the bevel too low. Since these tools are used for fairly rough work, the metal is deliberately tempered soft (by cabinet making standards) to avoid edge chipping.

BugBear


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## custard (4 Aug 2010)

Thanks for those suggestions, much appreciated


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (4 Aug 2010)

bugbear":1pank45s said:


> custard":1pank45s said:
> 
> 
> > Anyone any suggestions how to go about sharpening a curved bill hook?
> ...



I think grinding on the round end of a belt sander would be easier.

Regards from Perth

Derek


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## Jacob (4 Aug 2010)

Scythe stone (cigar shaped stone as in earlier posts).
I wouldn't bother with powered grinders at all as they will grind it out of shape and make it harder to use the scythe stone.


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## bugbear (4 Aug 2010)

Derek Cohen (Perth said:


> bugbear":43ctx1nl said:
> 
> 
> > custard":43ctx1nl said:
> ...



If you have one, yes, by all means.

BugBear


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## shipbadger (4 Aug 2010)

Many years ago when I worked in horticulture the Spaniards who made up around a third of our workforce told me that back in Spain they didn't sharpen scythes, billhooks etc. with a stone but instead hammered an edge, literally, with a hammer they carried for the purpose and using any convenient rock in the field as an anvil. I suspect that it took some practice to achieve consistent results.

Tony Comber


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## Jacob (4 Aug 2010)

You are supposed to do the same with a scythe - hammer out the edge on an anvil something like a hammer head in a block of wood. It's called "peening". Then follow with a stone. Maybe the hammering alone is enough?
Scythes cut along the ground so the bevel is on top, so it's three strokes with the stone on top and then one underneath.
Billhooks symmetrical so you wouldn't do this.


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## bugbear (5 Aug 2010)

shipbadger":bxt3mvre said:


> Many years ago when I worked in horticulture the Spaniards who made up around a third of our workforce told me that back in Spain they didn't sharpen scythes, billhooks etc. with a stone but instead hammered an edge, literally, with a hammer they carried for the purpose and using any convenient rock in the field as an anvil. I suspect that it took some practice to achieve consistent results.
> 
> Tony Comber



This technique works in conjunction with slightly softer blades. Hammering both thins the edge, and work hardens it. 

Final sharpening (if you want a better edge) is done after the hammering with a stone in the normal way.

Trying this on a harder blade would not be wise, and I think British blades were always made too hard for this technique.

BugBear


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## Sean Hellman (6 Aug 2010)

The most important question has been missed, what is the bill hook going to be used for. This will determine how it is to be sharpened.
Bill hooks are traditional cutting tools for hedge layers, hurdle makers and coppice workers, they are not general slashers and splitters.
The idea of using a round cigar stone to sharpen a hook is like sharpening you phily plane blades on a bench grinder only.
Use a canoe stone or as I do a cheap double sides combination oil stone, the corners get rounded off the stone, but it is a dedicated hook stone. Most coppice workers I know spend some time grinding the shoulders off the hook, some use a bench grinder taking there time, some use an angle grinder with a sanding disc, obviously do not over heat the metal.
If cutting hazel and smaller branches the primary bevel need to be 17 to 20 degrees any more and the hook will get stuck in the cut. I would then put a small secondary bevel on, and have both bevels slightly convex.
If you are using this tool as a general purpose tool for splitting and slashing then the primary and secondary bevels need to be more obtuse.
If a hook is used for cutting hazel sticks and small branches then the edge needs to razor sharp, just as for an axe, knife or plane blade.
We sharpen tools in this country with abrasives, in Austria and other parts of Europe some tools are peened especially scythes, I have not heard of this being done with hooks and would be interested in finding out more. The hammering of the edge will case harden the metal, do it too much and the metal will become too brittle


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