# My first router table



## Rorschach (3 Nov 2017)

Built my first little router table, just something basic to make using my new Katsu router a bit safer and more convenient with dust extraction. Made entirely from scraps I just wanted something small and easy to store that could be setup in a workmate. MFC for the table top and some framing lumber for the fence which I trued up with a jack plane so it is straight and square to the table. Could do with putting some melamine or something on the face so it slides a bit easier, I may re-visit the fence in the future. Happy with the table top though. And happy with the single pivot principle of the fence.
Works a treat, nice and stable and feels very safe. Dust extraction is superb, nothing seemed to escape once the cutter was in the workpiece, the auto socket on my parkside vac makes it super simple to use and I don't have to reach under to switch the router on and off.


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## Eric The Viking (3 Nov 2017)

Neat, elegant and very useful.

My guess is you'll be really pleased with that over time. 

E.

Small PS: I'd add a removable block nearer the router, as a "lead-on pin" for bearing-guided shape routing "freehand". But it's a very simple thing and will only take a few secs to do whenever you first need it.


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## Rorschach (3 Nov 2017)

Ahh yes I have seen those on some other builds when I was doing research. I don't have any bearing guide bits at the moment but it will be something I add in the future. Need to place it carefully so I don't go into the recessed areas underneath.


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## sunnybob (3 Nov 2017)

The bearing pin isnt necessary. You can just lean one end of the wood against the locked in place fence, and then once youre cutting, just move away from it.

I started with a pin, but never use it now. Warning. DO NOT try to use a bearing cutter without some form of rest. it will take the wood away from you and throw it out the door (assuming youre not standing in the way).


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## ED65 (4 Nov 2017)

Looks good Rorschach. Great example of just how simple a router table can be, hope it works out well for you. 

To improve sliding along the fence in short order a good coat of paste wax will do a lot. The wax can go directly on the wood if need be but is best applied after partially sealing the wood with sanding sealer, a thin coat of shellac or dilute varnish, with the additional benefit that any of these will toughen up the surface slightly.


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## Eric The Viking (4 Nov 2017)

Bob is right: you can use anything as a lead-on pin, including the end of the fence. Before I had a posh table I've clamped a block of wood so that the end comes close to the router spindle (2-4" away). But my current one has a mitre track, so I can still do the same thing, but clamping it on the track rather than clamps - probably more secure.

The reason for having it close to the cutter is really so that you get maximum control. There's a good argument for contriving one as/when you need to, so you can get the pivot point in the most comfortable place (as long as it can't slip - not life threatening, but usually a nasty surprise!). I'm not advocating a close-by pin because everyone else says so - but because it really is easier that way. The corner of a bit of scrap will serve, but the two points of contact - the bearing itself and the pivot - do make it much easier to keep good control. 

The other thing, of course, is depth of cut: If you're using a moulding cutter with the fence, it's easy to arrange shallower passes so the final one to depth takes a minute amount of wood. The cutter is barely cutting and the result is clean (don't tell anyone, but you might even climb-cut the very last, really thin pass for smoothness). 

With "freehand" moulding this is a lot harder to set up consistently, and the natural inclination of the cutter is to snatch the stock in, to full depth. There are various remedies I've seen for this, including 2-point fences (which don't use the bearing much until final depth, but need waste stock at each end of the wanted bit and a constant-radius curve), and even sticking tape round the bearing to increase its diameter (dead dodgy, IMHO). I have a really nice Wealden rebate cutter, with a selection of bearings to give different depths of rebate: a good, safe approach is to use bigger bearings to start off with and work down to the right rebate in steps. 

But controlling depth of cut is a weakness of "freehand" routing, especially in natural wood rather than man-made materials. You'll probably agree the first time you suddenly hit a bit of gnarly grain in hardwood... 

I've yet to need to make a sled for pattern routing, but it seems to be the most controllable approach, as you can get a good grip with both hands, well away from the sharp spinning bits.

I hope Custard is reading this, as it's the sort of thing he needs to do often (I'd guess), so he probably has a safe and good approach!).


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## Rorschach (4 Nov 2017)

Some really useful info there.

I think I will probably try some of kind of clamp on type deal when I do need to use a bearing guided bit rather than drill into the table more than necessary. I can also bore out of the fence to provide clearance to do a progressive cut too. Being such a small router I doubt it could handle taking most cutters at full depth anyway.

I should explain the reason I made the fence from simple lumber and cut the slot in the table should anyone think of doing similar, it is so that I can easily replace the fence if needed. It just needs 2x6mm holes drilled the correct distance apart, so I can always make a new zero clearance type fence if needed in just a few minutes. Following the advice above I will give it a couple of coats of thin shellac and then wax it this week. 

Something else I forgot to mention, I made sure my edges on the table were nice and straight so I can either cut a mitre slot into the table topor more likely just run my mitre gauge along the edge if I need to do the ends of a long workpiece. I'll test it just using the edge before going to the effort of cutting a mitre slot.


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## Eric The Viking (4 Nov 2017)

You're spot on. For ages, I got by with a bit of 2x4 and two clamps as a fence.

The real beauty of a simple router table is that there's such a lot you can do productively with it. Of course a complex one is better, but your design gives huge value for money.

E.


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## Rorschach (4 Nov 2017)

A fancy router table would be lovely, however I have neither the space to store it nor the need for one, same goes for a mitre saw station. I try whenever possible to mount my tools on bases that can be clamped into a workmate or my bench vice. The only tools that are on a dedicated stand are those that are used very frequently so that's (wood) bandsaw, lathes, drill press, buffers etc.


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## sunnybob (4 Nov 2017)

If you want to see the simplest and most efficient router fence the world has ever seen....
The whole video is fantastic, but 5 minutes in is the fence.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbXLtHw ... vidhenry32


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## Rorschach (4 Nov 2017)

sunnybob":1ifod8jo said:


> If you want to see the simplest and most efficient router fence the world has ever seen....
> The whole video is fantastic, but 5 minutes in is the fence.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbXLtHw ... vidhenry32



I did think about just a clamp on fence, but using clamps on the workmate top was going to be awkward, the extra effort cutting the slot was worth it I think.


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## custard (4 Nov 2017)

That's all the router table you ever need for the vast majority of woodwork. Most craftsmen in shared workshops have something even more rudimentary for when the spindle moulder and main router table are occupied, just a simple board that cantilevers off the edge of the bench, that's sufficient for loads and loads of routing jobs. 

Fretting about the "ultimate" router table is yet another woodworking rabbit hole that prevents many woodworkers from ever actually making anything!


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## Rorschach (7 Nov 2017)

2 coats of WB Poly on the fence and then both fence and table had a nice coat of Ren wax and now they are super slick and the fence feels much tougher.


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## diyphil (11 Dec 2017)

Hi. I agree with the forum members suggesting wax instead of going to the trouble of using melamine. Glad to see it worked OK. I made a crosscut sled for my table saw and waxed it. It now glides like it's on ice. Very pleased.
Phil


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## Stevedimebag (13 Dec 2017)

Great post - this has given me the inspiration to get started on my own. So simple but so effective.


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## Alder (15 Dec 2017)

If using a sheet of ply for a router table am I correct in thinking that a collet extension is required or you will only a minimal depth of cut?
Russell


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## Stevedimebag (15 Dec 2017)

Alder":1ufq8rss said:


> If using a sheet of ply for a router table am I correct in thinking that a collet extension is required or you will only a minimal depth of cut?
> Russell



I will be routing out a recess for the router base to sit in below the surface of the table. Might take 5-6mm off my cut depth but I am ok with that.


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## Rorschach (15 Dec 2017)

If you remove the plastic base from the router you will gain about 5mm extra depth of cut, that's what I did and I removed enough material from the back side so that it equalled the thickness of the plastic plate, therefore I haven't lost any depth of cut at all with my table.


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## whatknot (15 Dec 2017)

Can you expand on the part about a lead on pin please 

And do you mean for use with the type of bit as per attached?

If its that type of bit, whats the need for a lead pin?

Just trying to understand if I need one and why 


E.

Small PS: I'd add a removable block nearer the router, as a "lead-on pin" for bearing-guided shape routing "freehand". But it's a very simple thing and will only take a few secs to do whenever you first need it.[/quote]


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## Stevedimebag (15 Dec 2017)

Rorschach":sa1g44ny said:


> If you remove the plastic base from the router you will gain about 5mm extra depth of cut, that's what I did and I removed enough material from the back side so that it equalled the thickness of the plastic plate, therefore I haven't lost any depth of cut at all with my table.


yep - was thinking of this too - just have to check my router base and see how to get it off.


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## Rorschach (15 Dec 2017)

On mine (Katsu) it was just 4 screws and I used these same 4 screws to attach the base to the table.


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## LarryS. (15 Dec 2017)

Sorry to hijack the thread (slightly) , what sort of wax do you use to make plywood slick ?

Thanks 


Paul

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk


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## MattRoberts (15 Dec 2017)

Pretty much any wax will do the job, even a candle. I use clear briwax


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## sunnybob (15 Dec 2017)

The starter pin is vital when you are first starting out.
If you don't use one, when you first put the wood to the cutter it will grab and throw the piece clear across the room.

You should place the wood firmly against the starter pin, make sure your fingers will not get anywhere near the bit, and slowly rotate the wood into the bit. Once the cutter is fully into the wood and the top (bottom) bearing is engaged with the wood, you can then start to move the wood around the cutter.

Later on, with much experience, it is possible to do without the pin. I now just use the fence as a resting point, but still don't just go in freehand


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## LarryS. (18 Dec 2017)

MattRoberts":6s8ga1p8 said:


> Pretty much any wax will do the job, even a candle. I use clear briwax


Thanks Matt

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk


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## Chris152 (29 Sep 2018)

I'm thinking of doing a table for a Katsu following this plan. Rather than cutting a recess to depth for the router to attach to, could I cut a hole right through, then laminate a sheet of 6mm ply over the table top, attach the router to the ply (and drill a smaller hole in the ply for the cutter/ collet)? I think I'd find that easier but would it work?


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## sunnybob (29 Sep 2018)

A revived thread! =D> 
Chris, an unusual approach, but nothing to stop you. As long as you have access to adjust the height and replace the bit on that router.

If access is restricted, it would be simpler to make a smaller ply insert so you could lift the router and insert out for bit changing.

Think it all through before you start, changing bits needs to be simple and easy, or youll soon have to make yet another table.

8 months on, and I have to admit i no longer use the starter pin. i just go straight in with the piece firmly and safely held.


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## Rorschach (29 Sep 2018)

Yes I think that would work fine, play is not a super smooth surface though so you might want to consider that, it's why I used MFC.

I am considering an upgrade on this table, it works nicely but I fancy something a little bit smarter. Either i am going to use some aluminium sign board for the top and a similar fence/base system, or I am also considering making a fitting for my table saw so I can make use of the table saw fence and mitre gauge. Not decided yet, no panic for it.


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## Chris152 (29 Sep 2018)

Ok, just ordered one, arriving tomorrow. i think you're right Bob, I need to look carefully at it and figure what'll work - at the moment it's totally abstract, I've not even used a router before. And for the moment Rorschach, your design'll be just fine I think - when I get the hang of it I can think about improvements. We'll see...

I was thinking to get a couple of straight router bits from axminster - I don't want to do complex profiles, just shallow grooves for inserting other strips of wood.


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## Bm101 (29 Sep 2018)

Might want to have a look at wealden bits Chris. I don't have _anywhere_ near the experience to recommend bits but each time the question of router brand bits gets mentioned they get overwhelming commendations. Nothing against the axis ones btw. 
Excellent service and bits for the few times I've bought from them. 
Might help. Just a heads up.


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## Rorschach (29 Sep 2018)

I've got a basic Trend set that are superb value for money, I also have a few Chinese cutters bought for pennies from Alieexpress, they are incredibly good for the price but the quality of cut is not as clean. I have them on hand for cutting things like chipboard.


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## Chris152 (1 Oct 2018)

Advice noted - I'm going to just get one Axi bit (they're just down the road from here) so I can get going and take it from there. 
But before I do - I've been looking online for a good palm router tutorial (handheld, fixed base) so I can confidently/ safely try it out, but have found nothing that's not shouting at me or confusing. Any recommendations - something really basic? Once I've had a go I can get on with the table, but don't want to rush into anything.


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## sunnybob (1 Oct 2018)

My experience with routers started only 4 years ago, and I am completely self taught, but I can tell you that a table mounted router is considerably easier and safer to use as a first timer.
With a table router, the blade is there, plain view, doesnt move. You can calculate how close you need to be.
With a fixed base, the bit is out there, spinning like a loon. You move it around the wood, and a finger can easily find its way underneath. I had a very near miss the first time i used a hand held. Its not easier, and its not safer.
A plunge router is reasonably safe to learn with though, because you need both hands on the sides to operate it


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## Chris152 (1 Oct 2018)

Ok, I'm convinced! I'll keep my itchy fingers safe and get on with building the table. 

In case anyone's interested, I bought an 8mm bit for under £10, though it was marked up at over £12 on the shelf. They're in the process of changing the prices throughout the stores to match those in the new catalogue - they had a pile of sheets (each with lots of the small price tags) the size of an old telephone book, so I guess an awful lot of items are being marked down - apparently, none are being marked up. The prices online are already adjusted. 

Anyway, table building...


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## sunnybob (1 Oct 2018)

See if you can search this site for Framer Giles router table build.
Its a doozy, loads of comments and advice from almost everyone.


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## Chris152 (2 Oct 2018)

I searched "Farmer Giles' but in the 10 pages of results it didn't come up. If anyone finds it let me know? Ta.

Anyway - it works!






One thing - the bit is a straight 8mm x 20mm with two cutting edges from Axminster, but I can't find the recommended speed on their site. I set it to 5 for the test cut which apparently is 31000 rpm - does that sound right for the bit?


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## sunnybob (2 Oct 2018)

most straight bits are made for "maximum" speed. many routers dont even have speed control. Once you get into 1" and wider specialty bits the speed needs to be reduced because of the amount of centrifugal force a large cutter has.


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## Jon.1976 (2 Oct 2018)

As bm101 said, wealden are excellent. Delivery is free and really quick, bits are good too.


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## Chris152 (2 Oct 2018)

Jon.1976":364s80hl said:


> As bm101 said, wealden are excellent. Delivery is free and really quick, bits are good too.


Just had a look at their prices - they're about the same so will definitely order a couple more sizes to try out.

Have to say, I'm delighted with the setup - it seems so useful and safe, and incredibly easy to use. Thanks for the original post Rorschach and everyone for advice.


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## Raymond UK (2 Oct 2018)

Looking good. Nice and simple and does the job. In fact, it probably do most jobs you'll ever need a router table for. I like the fence construction with one fixed end.

My first router table was a piece of kitchen top with a diy fence. Even the feather boards I cut out of wood running in a routed T-slot with coach bolts....

I have made a new router table about 4-5 years ago to suit my needs better but I guess I'll be ready to build another one in a year or two from now with a better insert plate and clear stock guides.


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## Rorschach (2 Oct 2018)

I am glad it is working out for you. I can't take total credit, like most things I adapted this design from other designs I had seen, but simplified a few things. 

I have had a good bit of use from mine and I will need to make a new fence soon as I have chewed up the clearance area a bit :lol: 
Probably going to make another slightly different design, or fit the router to the table saw, can't decide which yet.


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