# Trying linseed paint - £141.68 for 1 litre



## ColeyS1 (22 Aug 2017)

So the titles a little misleading. Everything I think I'd need to try using it, amounts to £141.68





After hearing Jacob and others sing it's praises, I have to try it. But the initial cost is eyewateringly expensive !

Is it worth it ? Does a little go a long way ?

Coley


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## OscarG (22 Aug 2017)

Wonder if Jacob recommends applying it with a pushstick?




sorry!


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## profchris (22 Aug 2017)

Last time I bought boiled linseed oil it was a couple of pounds for a bottle (half litre?). Do you need to pay the extra for Duchy Original organic?


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## Phil Pascoe (22 Aug 2017)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BOILED-LINSEED ... eed+oil+1l

Everbuild is not difficult to get hold of, and I've not had any problem with Everbuild stuff.


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## ColeyS1 (22 Aug 2017)

Thanks guys, I thought it worth a phone call to them. Apparently the linseed oil is only to use on prepainted stuff. New wood can get painted straight on. First coat mixed with 20%zinc. 
All I needed was the paint and 200ml of the zinc. £76 quid which seems much better ! Should be with me tomorrow.

Coley

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## paulrockliffe (22 Aug 2017)

I primed using linseed oil, raw not boiled, heated to 70 degrees. Then a tin of paint is £30-40 for a litre, which was enough to do 4 huge planters and a bench, with some left over. I wouldn't bother with the zinc or any fancy brushes.


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## Friedrich (22 Aug 2017)

What is that website?
I usually don't care about where people spend their money as it's not really my business.
however you deserve to get shafted if you even consider purchasing that stuff at those prices.
Search around, you can get that stuff for 3-10x cheaper, it may not be under those fancy made up names however... Not kidding.
also 19pounds for a brush????


If you are not good with DIY Just get a small tin from Fiddes or Osmo stuff they have similar products but at more reasonable prices, already in your desired shades, good for outdoor stuff straight out of the tin and covers sooo much..
If you want zinc oxide..just buy that stuff, it costs almost nothing from ebay and mix it up yourself..

I would NOT support that business or the people who recommend such stuff at such prices..
If you have already bought, I would suggest to ask for refund/cancel order as that's straight up SCAM.


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## Phil Pascoe (22 Aug 2017)

> Just get a small tin from Fiddes or Osmo stuff they have similar products ...




No, they're not - they are totally different.


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## ColeyS1 (22 Aug 2017)

Friedrich":2k6dg1i8 said:


> What is that website?
> I usually don't care about where people spend their money as it's not really my business.
> however you deserve to get shafted if you even consider purchasing that stuff at those prices.
> Search around, you can get that stuff for 3-10x cheaper, it may not be under those fancy made up names however... Not kidding.
> ...



I wasn't aware osmo sell linseed paint ? Could you provide a link please ?

As it's my first experiment with it, I thought it best to try ready made. Perhaps I'll get my lab coat and test tubes out later if it proves successful.
Thanks for caring for me X 
Coley


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## ColeyS1 (22 Aug 2017)

paulrockliffe":1vyy8p21 said:


> I primed using linseed oil, raw not boiled, heated to 70 degrees. Then a tin of paint is £30-40 for a litre, which was enough to do 4 huge planters and a bench, with some left over. I wouldn't bother with the zinc or any fancy brushes.


Isn't it the zinc additive that prevents the mildew and mould though ?- I don't like either :lol: 

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## Jacob (22 Aug 2017)

I've primed on new/old wood and existing paint with raw linseed oil. Seems to work very well.
Yes the stuff is pricey but it really does go a long way and lasts a long time.
The main thing is your wood won't rot - which is the biggest draw back with modern paints and costs a bomb to rectify - or needs pressure treating with preservative, which even then will still need repainting.


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## ColeyS1 (22 Aug 2017)

Jacob":1j3nzxgz said:


> I've primed on new/old wood and existing paint with raw linseed oil. Seems to work very well.
> Yes the stuff is pricey but it really does go a long way and lasts a long time.
> The main thing is your wood won't rot - which is the biggest draw back with modern paints and costs a bomb to rectify - or needs pressure treating with preservative, which even then will still need repainting.


Thanks for the recommendation Jacob. The guy on the phone was super helpful. He spoke to the allback guy in person who suggested priming new wood with the oil was unecessary. I could try my samples with and without the oil/primer if you think it's worthwhile? 


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## ColeyS1 (4 Nov 2017)

Finally got round to putting it on a window this morning. I took off the lid and thought what on earth have I took on here.




It looked a bit like dried up old putty, smell like it aswell ! I plunged the stirring stick in expecting it to be hard work only to discover it was a thin skin and the underneath was nice and runny. I mixed in the additive with some of the paint in a small measuring cup. I took a guess that 150ml would be sufficient for the small window. In the end I had 110ml spare !




As Jacob said, a little goes a long way !! Coverage seemed remarkably good considering I was painting sapele. I'll check every day or so to see how long it takes to dry. Leaving it 3 days between coats wouldn't be that bad. I've known farrow and ball to still be wet after 2 weeks !

Impressed so far, need a crappy softwood project to try it on. 
Cheers
Coley

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## Jacob (4 Nov 2017)

Traditionally you don't paint the backs of frames. Out of sight - a waste of paint.
Install first as bare wood (or primed with linseed oil - external faces only) and only then paint what you can see. This allows the wood to breathe - water may get in but can also get out seasonally.


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## Beau (4 Nov 2017)

Following this with interest as might try it some time. A quick google brings up much cheaper alternatives like this so what have I missed?
https://www.promain.co.uk/the-tradition ... 6MEALw_wcB


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## ColeyS1 (4 Nov 2017)

Jacob":221qcgcs said:


> Traditionally you don't paint the backs of frames. Out of sight - a waste of paint.
> Install first as bare wood (or primed with linseed oil - external faces only) and only then paint what you can see. This allows the wood to breathe - water may get in but can also get out seasonally.


It's a force of habit painting everything Jacob. This is gonna be a sample window that will sit on a shelf in the shop so I'd prefer it to look pretty all around.
One thing the allback guy did say which is slightly different to what you recommend is priming with linseed oil isn't necessary on new unfinished wood. He did say it was beneficial for previously painted surfaces though. If it would give it even better protection I'd have no issue with brushing on a coat. I might give him another ring on Monday just to double check. 



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## John Brown (4 Nov 2017)

Beau":ga39vzgz said:


> Following this with interest as might try it some time. A quick google brings up much cheaper alternatives like this so what have I missed?
> https://www.promain.co.uk/the-tradition ... 6MEALw_wcB



I see they do two types, the one you linked to is an emulsion of linseed oil and water. They have a more expensive version that appears to be linseed oil only.

Interested to hear Jacob's take on this, as he seems to be the forum expert.


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## Jacob (4 Nov 2017)

> an emulsion of linseed oil and water.


Dunno, no idea. Sounds contradictory though - you are probably paying more for the oil and the water is free!

I imagine that priming with oil only, is going to be cheaper.
It certainly works brilliantly as a primer over existing paint (in my limited experience, may not work with all paints). It sticks well but also seems to stabilise the old paint. I guess it penetrates well and finds its way into cracks and crevices


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## ColeyS1 (4 Nov 2017)

Just had a quick look at it. Looks like it's soaked into the end grain really well instead of just sitting on the surface. 
Be interesting to see how the next coat (without additive) affects the finish. I guess it won't soak in as much.

Back in the day with exterior joinery i use to allow a 1.5mm gap. A few years ago I upped it to 2mm and have never had to go back to ease any joints. This stuff covers well but seems thin. Perhaps I could revert back to 1.5mm if it becomes a regular thing. 

I'm wondering if 2 coats would do, or perhaps 3 would be better. I'll know after the second coat.

"Is it dry yet, is it dry yet is It is it?" 

So exciting lol

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## Jacob (4 Nov 2017)

Yep it is thin. If you put it on too thick it won't go off - it skins over and you have to sand off the soft bits. Quite easy to do though so it's nothing to worry about, but save the bother (and the paint) by brushing it out as thin as possible.
Thin coats means you can just keep topping up every few years indefinitely. No burning back or scraping. I've taken old joinery out which still has all it's paint still intact -20 layers or more from new 100 years ago or more.
The worst thing you can do to a bit of old joinery is to burn off the old paint and replace with new (edited - modern paint). You would instantly shorten its life to 5 to 10 years.


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## ColeyS1 (4 Nov 2017)

Jacob":k7aqzfii said:


> Yep it is thin. If you put it on too thick it won't go off - it skins over and you have to sand off the soft bits. Quite easy to do though so it's nothing to worry about, but save the bother (and the paint) by brushing it out as thin as possible.
> Thin coats means you can just keep topping up every few years indefinitely. No burning back or scraping. I've taken old joinery out which still has all it's paint still intact -20 layers or more from new 100 years ago or more.
> The worst thing you can do to a bit of old joinery is to burn off the old paint and replace with new. You would instantly shorten its life to 5 to 10 years.


I'm confused now. So using this paint it'll only last 5-10 years ? I thought it was good for a decade or so before just needing a coat of linseed oil ?

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## Jacob (4 Nov 2017)

ColeyS1":2h3lcsdt said:


> Jacob":2h3lcsdt said:
> 
> 
> > Yep it is thin. If you put it on too thick it won't go off - it skins over and you have to sand off the soft bits. Quite easy to do though so it's nothing to worry about, but save the bother (and the paint) by brushing it out as thin as possible.
> ...


No I meant modern paint only lasting 5 to 10 years on burned off wood. Even shorter if you use water based primers. 
This was my first experience of window work when I was a youth; my sister said she pay me to paint her house, 50 ish year old joinery. I followed all the best instructions I could lay my hands on - including "The Readers Digest book of Painting and Decorating" :roll: 
Three years later it was all peeling off. 5 years later they replaced them with plastic!

If you use linseed on old paint just wash down, scrape/brush off loose stuff, fill/repair, lightly sand, but otherwise leave undisturbed!


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## ColeyS1 (4 Nov 2017)

Phew, that's a relief.
It's still not dry [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH]

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## wills-mill (5 Nov 2017)

phil.p":1yjmttav said:


> Just get a small tin from Fiddes or Osmo stuff they have similar products ...
> 
> No, they're not - they are totally different.




I'd agree about the Polyx type finishes that people mainly think of, but-

I'd be genuinely interested to hear comments about Osmo Country Colours alongside the linseed paints being tested in this thread.

It's veg oil based and coverage and pigment seems absolutely great on the few bits I've used it on.


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## garethharvey (5 Nov 2017)

I am a huge fan of linseed oil paints, have been using it quite a bit lately. I built a glasshouse 7 years ago, painted it with modern paints, primer, undercoat and then 3 top coats. Within 3 years, most of the paint had failed. I complained to the paint company, they claimed I had not prepared the surface correctly. Modern paints are useless in my opinion.

The linseed oil paint is expensive, I have literally just finished the rebuild of my glasshouse and it has taken 3 litres of linseed oil paint, this actually works out cheaper than buying modern paints as I have no primer or undercoat. Also, I will not be re-painting in 3 years time.


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## garethharvey (5 Nov 2017)

ColeyS1":ajlhivts said:


> Phew, that's a relief.
> It's still not dry [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH]
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk



You need to use the paint in a heated workshop, it needs to be at least 15 degrees. Painting outside this time of year or in cold temperature just wont work.


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## ColeyS1 (5 Nov 2017)

I was kinda joking Gareth, it had only been a few hours. It's been 30 hours and it's kind of dryish. I can touch it with my finger and not much comes off. Wiping my finger against it cause it to transfer. Quite good really.- I can wipe off all the rubbish I picked up when my paint brush fell on the floor lol.

Here's a picture of it soaked into the end grain.







The dark area is fairly dry. 




The light patchy bit is as wet as when first applied.

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## Jacob (5 Nov 2017)

garethharvey":3mmoj4fy said:


> ColeyS1":3mmoj4fy said:
> 
> 
> > Phew, that's a relief.
> ...


Actually linseed will cure in lowish temperatures but just take a little longer. It doesn't "dry" it oxidises in fresh air. Hence long shelf life - it may skin over in the tin but that's it it won't get any worse for a very long time. There are no VOCs. I've painted outside at this time of year. It goes off faster in sunlight but it all goes off in the end


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## ColeyS1 (6 Nov 2017)

It's dry now. 50 hours so not that bad at all ! It's was pretty much there yesterday. I'll leave it a couple more days for good measure but it's good to know that for a rush job it might take 50hrs before applying the next coat. 

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## ColeyS1 (9 Nov 2017)

Rubbed it down yesterday




No different to rubbing down oil based paint. Put the second coat on at about 3pm yesterday.
Had a look this morning and it looks wet








It's the patches that concern me but guess it could be the paint drying quicker in certain spots.
The long drying time has its benefits. You can keep going back over with lighter brush strokes even after 40 minutes and it doesn't affect the surrounding paint. 
So far I'm pleased. The end grain sucked up a lot less this time. I need to check to see how many coats are recommended.

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## bugbear (9 Nov 2017)

Interesting painting project - keep us posted.

BugBear


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## Rorschach (9 Nov 2017)

This is an interesting thread. I almost never have cause to paint outdoor woodwork, but it's always good to have that knowledge should I need it.


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## ColeyS1 (10 Nov 2017)

40 hours and the second coat is completely dry. More worryingly the blotchy patches are still there.




The drying time isn't an issue but I wouldn't be happy having a blotchy finish. Hopefully they dissappear over the next few days or with a final coat........


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## ColeyS1 (12 Nov 2017)

3rd coat on




I've got a hunch that Jacobs recommended first coat of just linseed oil may have helped stop the blotchyness. By letting the wood absorb the oil first I think coats of paint would be absorbed less, giving a more even colour. I'm waiting to hear back from the allback guy but in my head that theory works. It's had 3 coats now and I can still see wood pores....

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## Jacob (12 Nov 2017)

My first attempts weren't too good and I had shiny patches which just wouldn't go off. Seems they were where the paint was too thick and skinning over. Had to sand it off - which worked fine even thought the paint was sticky. Since then I've really got into brushing it out thin. Stiff fitch brushes - no skill required just brush it out.
It's very different from normal paint and you won't get a high gloss finish. It won't look as good but it'll last a lot longer.


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## bugbear (12 Nov 2017)

Jacob":3j9q6k4p said:


> It's very different from normal paint and you won't get a high gloss finish. It won't look as good but it'll last a lot longer.


How long ago did you first use it?

BugBear


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## Jacob (12 Nov 2017)

bugbear":3avug5rr said:


> Jacob":3avug5rr said:
> 
> 
> > It's very different from normal paint and you won't get a high gloss finish. It won't look as good but it'll last a lot longer.
> ...


Must be getting on for 10 years? I posted it up somewhere but can't find it, it's on here or woodworkuk somewhere. 
The point is - not a flake of it has dropped off in that time and there is zero sign of water ingress. As compared to many previous efforts with modern paint much shorter lived and rot setting in.
It's weathered and some of it looks scruffy and could do with a second or third coat but it goes on very easily with very little preparation - a wash down and light sanding.
Or to put it another way - I'm fairly confident that the woodwork I've applied it to will see me out even if no-one does proper maintenance. 
Whereas I've had some embarrassing disasters with modern paints!
My mate Brian ('modernist' ex of this parish) tells me that his high tech high spec Sikkens dogs borllox is failing all over his 5 to 10 year old hardwood external joinery. They've stopped making this particular variety - presumably because they've realised it's cr&p, too. I'm fairly sure linseed oil would have been better, cheaper and easier to apply.
Seems to be an oft repeated story

PS erewego - 10years almost to the day! http://www.woodworkuk.co.uk/forum/viewt ... seed+paint


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## ColeyS1 (12 Nov 2017)

Did you ever have any issues of it looking blotchy Jacob? After 3 coats I wasn't expecting to be able to still see the pores. Is still seeing the wood pores normal or does it suggest it still needs more coats ? Don't suppose you've got any pictures of how it could look ? 

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## ColeyS1 (12 Nov 2017)

Just read your thread on woodworkuk. Seems like you had your fair share of issues. I'm not sure if this is gonna be suitable for paying customers though. Drying time and price is completely fine. It's the not knowing how it'll look on the finished item that concerns me- a lot. 
I'll try and do few samples of linseed vs modern aluminium primer followed by a few different top coats and see how they fair outside. 
Perhaps when i have a look tomorrow it'll all be a consistent colour.

Edit. Just remembered I made a new front door many years ago and supplied it with just a couple coats of aluminium primer. Kept looking back to see if it ever had the next coats but it never did- not until they wanted to sell the house some 4-5 years later. The only thing that changed in that time was it lost its proper aluminium colour and went grey. I wonder if your bad experience with modern paints is due to acrylic primer being at fault ? For outside joinery it's always been ally primer since I was an apprentice. Its only recently I've been trying different things like bedecs waterbased finishes, which I'm so far very impressed with. 
I need to do some samples and find somewhere to put them outside.


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## Jacob (13 Nov 2017)

Me ditto with ali primer - externally always used it (after early disasters with acrylic) and left painting for the painter - then he gets the blame!
On my own stuff I've painted linseed on top of ali primer on panel door and it works beautifully. But ali plus modern paint failed on an old ledge/brace /batten door - paint lifting off from around the board joints after 3 years. Remedied by washing, rubbing down with wire brush and sanding, followed with linseed oil as primer and linseed paint on top. Problem solved. Paint has stuck for 10 years including the old paint underneath. Has had one extra coat in the meantime but very easy to apply on washed down paintwork. I've also tried oil alone as reviver on faded paint (south facing door) and that works well.


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## Beau (13 Nov 2017)

Used to be an International paint called Ranch Paint. It was breathable and did my workshop doors for 15 years. Came to recoat them with the supposed replacement and it has trapped water in and caused the doors to rot. 

Can see the value in finding a quality breathable paint.


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## ColeyS1 (13 Nov 2017)

Beau":11a37bad said:


> Used to be an International paint called Ranch Paint. It was breathable and did my workshop doors for 15 years. Came to recoat them with the supposed replacement and it has trapped water in and caused the doors to rot.
> 
> Can see the value in finding a quality breathable paint.


So would still seeing the wood pores be a good thing then ? The sparky I made the door for should be coming out in the next few days. If I can find out the exact year he sold his house, I should be able to look up the invoice to see exactly how long it was outside in just primer. The majority of the time I don't get to see how joinery items I've made are holding up. Perhaps they've all rotted out and they've gone and found another joiner. Lol 

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## Beau (13 Nov 2017)

"So would still seeing the wood pores be a good thing then ? "

Wouldn't like to say. I couldn't see the pores with the Ranch Paint but no idea if that meant it couldn't really breath just it was the best external paint I have used to date. Last window I did was with a 3 pack Dulux paint. Did it around 6-7 years ago and will have a look see how it's fairing today.


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## ColeyS1 (13 Nov 2017)

Just heard from the allback guy. He's 95% sure he knows the reason for the blotchyness. I dusted off and wiped down with meths to degrease the surface. Any type of solvent is apparently a BIG no no using linseed paint. Even though the meths had evaporated there's still small contaminants of it left causing the blotchyness. To salvage the sample window he recommends a good rubbing back,followed by a washing down with Linseed soap or mild soapy solution. He said it hammered into them on the allback course about white spirit, meths etc causing issues with the finish. Sounds like a dedicated brush for linseed only is also advisable. 
I'll leave this to dry for a few days now and in the mean time get a few different wood samples ready so I can paint them when I redo the window. 
First time I've known degreasing the surface of timber before painting to have a negative effect. 
One thing he did say is being able to see the wood pores is only an aesthetic problem. More coats will finally cover them but it's not necessary from a durability point of view. 
Cheers 
Coley 

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## ColeyS1 (13 Nov 2017)

Just spoke to the sparky and the door was primed and fitted early 2003 and the house was sold 2009 "there was nothing wrong with it,must be good primer" he chuckled. Think he was trying to justify why it took so long to paint it [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH]


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## Jacob (13 Nov 2017)

ColeyS1":gfn6b5ns said:


> Just heard from the allback guy. He's 95% sure he knows the reason for the blotchyness. I dusted off and wiped down with meths to degrease the surface. Any type of solvent is apparently a BIG no no using linseed paint. Even though the meths had evaporated there's still small contaminants of it left causing the blotchyness. To salvage the sample window he recommends a good rubbing back,followed by a washing down with Linseed soap or mild soapy solution. He said it hammered into them on the allback course about white spirit, meths etc causing issues with the finish. Sounds like a dedicated brush for linseed only is also advisable.
> I'll leave this to dry for a few days now and in the mean time get a few different wood samples ready so I can paint them when I redo the window.
> First time I've known degreasing the surface of timber before painting to have a negative effect.
> One thing he did say is being able to see the wood pores is only an aesthetic problem. More coats will finally cover them but it's not necessary from a durability point of view.
> ...


Interesting. I hadn't encountered the meths/white spirit prob - more by luck than judgement! 
I have washed down with sugar soap however and that causes no problems at all. If anything it makes the paint or oil take better to the surface
Where are you buying from Coley?


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## ColeyS1 (13 Nov 2017)

Oldhousestore.co.uk

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## Jacob (13 Nov 2017)

Beau":2nvu75d1 said:


> Used to be an International paint called Ranch Paint. It was breathable and did my workshop doors for 15 years. Came to recoat them with the supposed replacement and it has trapped water in and caused the doors to rot.
> 
> Can see the value in finding a quality breathable paint.


I'm told that all paint is 'breathable' and 'microporous', unless you go to extremes with bitumen, gold leaf etc. The words are bandied about by sales people and have as much/little meaning as 'new, improved'


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## Rorschach (13 Nov 2017)

Maybe try isopropyl alcohol as a cleaner instead, white spirit can leave a greasy residue and meths could be the same from the colour that they add. No residue at all with IPA.


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## ColeyS1 (13 Nov 2017)

He just sent me the handbook for the paint https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K6xSvj ... p=drivesdk
I'll have a read through later. I've uploaded it to mydrive and will leave it there for a few days incase anyone else wants a look.

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## ColeyS1 (13 Nov 2017)

Rorschach":15qk61ja said:


> Maybe try isopropyl alcohol as a cleaner instead, white spirit can leave a greasy residue and meths could be the same from the colour that they add. No residue at all with IPA.


I'll try the sample with nothing and if i still have issues I'll give your suggestion ago. Thanks. It's like having to relearn how to paint again !

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## Phil Pascoe (13 Nov 2017)

Anyone after IPA? This is as good as I found (and got) - https://www.amazon.co.uk/LITRE-Pharmace ... dpSrc=srch
There's a better deal again on 10ltrs. It's a very useful cleaner and softens hot melt glues.


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## Jacob (13 Nov 2017)

ColeyS1":2t39t5bq said:


> He just sent me the handbook for the paint https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K6xSvj ... p=drivesdk
> I'll have a read through later. I've uploaded it to mydrive and will leave it there for a few days incase anyone else wants a look.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


Thanks for that. They are getting more products and info together compared to 10 years ago.
One detail I wouldn't agree - they recommend glazing sprigs
In my experience as a restorer, sprigs were never used in old joinery. Where you do find them they are often the cause of the glass failing - with a crack starting against the pin.
They are useful but only as a temporary holding, to be removed as soon as putty hard enough, then the pin holes made good.
With small panes even this is not needed. with exceptions such as exposed places with high winds, or in hot weather when the putty might droop;
I had a prob on a main road steep hill with new glazing near the road. Noise of HGVs going up vibrated the glass and on a hot day new putty would go thixotropic and panes drop out. But otherwise pins rarely needed


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## Beau (13 Nov 2017)

Beau":2lccp08z said:


> " Last window I did was with a 3 pack Dulux paint. Did it around 6-7 years ago and will have a look see how it's fairing today.



So this is the window and all still perfect but it darn well should be. Think it was a pack of three products. One being a preserver and presumably primer and gloss. 

Sorry the pictures are terrible and the marks are just dirt.


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## Jacob (13 Nov 2017)

Beau":3cdeu0ct said:


> Beau":3cdeu0ct said:
> 
> 
> > " Last window I did was with a 3 pack Dulux paint. Did it around 6-7 years ago and will have a look see how it's fairing today.
> ...


Needs preservative because it won't be water tight. 
Most modern finishes require pressurised preservative timber treatment. This is because they are not very good at keeping water out.


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## Beau (13 Nov 2017)

Jacob":nxpeukkb said:


> Beau":nxpeukkb said:
> 
> 
> > Beau":nxpeukkb said:
> ...



I treat all my external woodwork with a preserver anyway. Why wouldn't you? It's easy and it's cheap.


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## thick_mike (13 Nov 2017)

Jacob":2e0nqma7 said:


> Beau":2e0nqma7 said:
> 
> 
> > Used to be an International paint called Ranch Paint. It was breathable and did my workshop doors for 15 years. Came to recoat them with the supposed replacement and it has trapped water in and caused the doors to rot.
> ...



You are correct, any finish you use will allow water through to some extent. I used to formulate car paint for OEM and refinish and we had to test water soak and humidity exposure. Despite them being very sophisticated 2 pack coatings baked at up to 130C they still absorbed moisture. Any coating on wood will allow some water to pass through.


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## Beau (13 Nov 2017)

thick_mike":3ob95jh9 said:


> Jacob":3ob95jh9 said:
> 
> 
> > Beau":3ob95jh9 said:
> ...




Yes seems to be case just some are more microporous than others. Thought this was interesting, it's from ICI so bias but still worth a read

The term "microporous" is often applied to specialist paints and stains and describes a coating that acts as a barrier to liquid water, but allows water vapour to pass through. The implication being that there is something special about the coating that keeps rainwater out of the substrate, but lets moisture that has found its way into the substrate escape as a vapour. Although almost all coatings will act as a barrier to liquid water, it is not correct to imply that coatings can be made so that moisture vapour can only travel through them in one direction. Moisture vapour will be able to pass through a coating equally well in either direction: from places where there is more moisture, to places where there is less moisture. The rate at which moisture passes through a coating is controlled by the permeability of the coating, the moisture content gradient, the film thickness, and the temperature.

ICI Paints has avoided using the term "microporous" to describe its products, regarding it as a somewhat misleading sales gimmick, because nearly all paints and stains offer some protection against rainwater, and all paints and stains will to a greater or lesser extent allow moisture vapour to pass through them in either direction. Instead scientists at ICI prefer to speak in terms of appropriate levels of "moisture vapour permeability": for example on a timber substrate, too little can result in paint blistering or worse still wood rot can begin to occur, too much allows moisture to pass into and out of the timber too easily, leading to splitting and cracking of the wood. So it is not just a question of the more the better. Moisture vapour permeability is one of a number of important attributes that must be considered when formulating an exterior coating - others include: adhesion, cohesion, flexibility, mould resistance and photostability.

Microporosity is therefore not some miracle technology, it is an invented word that has been used to describe paints and stains that are usually quite high in moisture vapour permeability - sometimes excessively so. Often such wonder products are single paints said to do the whole job in one go. We believe that this approach is grossly over simplistic, and prefer to take a much more systematic approach to achieving lasting durability with coatings for exterior wood, particularly where redecoration is concerned. For example, each part of the Weathershield Exterior Gloss System is formulated to do a specific job, and has a carefully balanced set of properties, including a suitable level of moisture vapour permeability, working together they help to keep the moisture content of the wood below levels at which timber decay can become a problem.

The Basics

Water Vapour Permeability

"Microporous" - "Breathing" - "Permeable"

All paints can claim to be microporous.

What is more important than microporosity is the following properties:

Mechanical Properties - flexibility
Adhesion
Biological resistance
Chemical resistance
Resistance to degradation by sunlight.
Early shower/water resistance
Resistance to soiling/dirt pick-up.
Compatability with previous coatings and where appropriate glazing seals.


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## Bm101 (13 Nov 2017)

Could I ask a daft question or two please? I know the pros are in on this one and I'm just a diy/hobby/shed boy so I would really appreciate any advice.

I replaced most of the front bay three years ago. Hardwood (Keruing I was told but I'm not sure), I primed undercoated and glossed, at least a couple of coats of all wood faces before fitting for better or worse but intentions were good). The window gets full sunlight after about 2pm in good weather so is fairly exposed but not constantly. Was painted in a trade quality paint. Most likely dulux. I have enough experience that I can lay on paint well. Most of it is fine but the paint on the beading, the (existing) putty is cracking already. 
I've read Jacob's advice previously and thought I'm too late to the party. I didn't realise I could paint over modern paint before reading this thread (so thanks Coley) . I also painted most of the other windows on the house at the same time though they were in far better condition. Bearing this in mind would people wait till a new revamp externally is due in maybe 3 or 4 years or would it be worth me getting prepared for a good period of weather next summer and trying to forestall any problems? I did a lot of work sanding back etc at the time and wish I'd known then but bearing in mind all that .... what would people suggest? 
Wasn't a member of UKW at the time and hadn't really heard more than in passing of using traditional paints. Wish I'd known.  
Link to the front window renovation pics to give an idea of how bad they were rather than anything else. Started off trying to replace the cills, in the end the entire externals got a bit of a makeover. Dont want to disrupt Coley's thread so have posted threads as an external link. Hope that's ok.
https://imgur.com/a/zfbV7


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## Jacob (14 Nov 2017)

I'd just accept the inevitable - routine maintenance a little and often. Paint over defects - have a go with linseed by all means.
Any external paint job, whatever paint, needs a good going over within the first few years, to remedy any faults. If done often and soon enough, it could settle down and need less attention later.


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## ColeyS1 (14 Nov 2017)

Beau":5htp2hv9 said:


> Beau":5htp2hv9 said:
> 
> 
> > " Last window I did was with a 3 pack Dulux paint. Did it around 6-7 years ago and will have a look see how it's fairing today.
> ...


Looks like the paints doing its job well. 

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## ColeyS1 (14 Nov 2017)

Just had a read through the handbook.





The moisture content of the sapele was 11% so I think this probably fits the wood being dry category which would also support Jacobs recommendation to prime with linseed first. I can't think of any reason this might have a negative effect. The bit on the right hand side is also interesting. A finishing coat of linseed oil can also help even out the colour.
I'm quietly confident the next thing I paint (from start to finish)should have less issues, providing I use linseed soap instead of meths/white spirit and give it an initial lick of oil. 

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## Chip shop (14 Nov 2017)

Sorry for the hijack, but has anyone bought any black linseed paint recently? I think the last lot I bought was from some outfit called Precious Earth who don't seem to do it anymore.

www.oldhousestore.co.uk/ carry the Allback stuff, but don't seem to do it in black. I've emailed them, so I'll see what they come up with. Does anyone know of anymore UK suppliers?


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## Phil Pascoe (14 Nov 2017)

A quick google will show two or three other linseed paint manufacturers that make black.


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## ColeyS1 (14 Nov 2017)

One thing I'm finding surprising with this thread is the amount of people that also use linseed paint. For a very long time I thought it was just Jacob who rated it.

To avoid a chance of ballsing up the next sample I've ordered a litre of raw linseed oil and also some linseed soap to wash down and prime before the paint. If the sample still has issues after that, then linseed paint isn't for me ! 




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## Jacob (14 Nov 2017)

ColeyS1":3occp6ov said:


> ..... If the sample still has issues after that, then linseed paint isn't for me ! ...


If the sample still has issues you dunnit wrong! Don't blame the paint!


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## ColeyS1 (14 Nov 2017)

Just being practical Jacob. If the next sample is done precisely as you and the handbook say using the recommended products and it's still patchy, then it's not going to fill me with joy. If the sample fails miserably compared with your much hated 'modern paints' then again, it's not gonna be my go to paint. On your woodworkuk thread you seemed to have your fair share of problems. There's also the other issue of it potentially looked faded and garbage after a few years. Not many people are gonna want their brand new external joinery looking worn and knackered after 3 years. If all it takes is a lick of oil to refresh it, the same could be said for the modern paint. A lick of paint after 3 years would also increase the modern paints durability.
I've got this awful feeling I keep trying to put to the back of my mind, that your constant dislike for modern paints is down to 1 or 2 jobs where you used acrylic primer. Until I've done a series of samples to weather outside its only one persons word against another . 
The door I spoke of that was outside in the elements with just aluminum primer for six years completely contradicts your modern paints are rubbish view. 

I'm keeping an open mind with it but there needs to be a point where I stop. If after ticking all the boxes, perhaps after a final coat of oil to even out the colour it's still looking gash, I'm not gonna keep on trying different colours and brands hoping to find one that works. 
If you've got some paint, help a fella out and splash a bit on some wood to see how it differs. Raid your paint store and get some samples done. If a few people do samples and the results are all the same then it's obviously good. 



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## Chip shop (14 Nov 2017)

In my limited experience (other than the white) it's been brilliant. I have to agree with Jacob. It's easy to paint on and get a decent finish. I've been looking at a load of doors, a window and a porch repair that I did on a place about 6 years ago (all in black) today, and they still look great.

One observation I will make, however, is they were all in unsorted. No hardwood, so maybe that is an issue?



> A quick google will show two or three other linseed paint manufacturers that make black.



Hi Phil, 

I don't mean to sound sarcastic, but Google did occur to me. A couple of links would be cool, as I'm struggling to find anyone who will actually sell me some.

All the best,

Ed.


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## ColeyS1 (14 Nov 2017)

Thanks Ed, that's good to hear. Do you bother wiping down with linseed soap and priming with oil, or is it a belt and braces approach ? I don't think I can be any fairer than trying it. I'd sooner iron out these little issues on my own stuff to start with before thinking of doing it on somebody elses. 


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## Chip shop (14 Nov 2017)

ColeyS1":6opzf5rm said:


> Thanks Ed, that's good to hear. Do you bother wiping down with linseed soap and priming with oil, or is it a belt and braces approach ? I don't think I can be any fairer than trying it. I'd sooner iron out these little issues on my own stuff to start with before thinking of doing it on somebody elses.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk



I've never bothered with the linseed soap (never heard of it if I'm honest), but always prime with patent knotting (all over) then a coat of linseed oil. Wait a bit for it to try then on with the paint. The knotting raises the grain and the oil primer seems to key better. Please note; this knotting priming business is something that I cooked up myself. There is no tech data that supports this and it was done on a whim, but does seem to work.


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## Jacob (14 Nov 2017)

Chip shop":1qv42gta said:


> .....
> One observation I will make, however, is they were all in unsorted. No hardwood, so maybe that is an issue?.....



Me too. I don't see the point of using hardwood under paint. It costs a lot more with no obvious advantage.


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## ColeyS1 (14 Nov 2017)

Chip shop":2zsmlewa said:


> ColeyS1":2zsmlewa said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks Ed, that's good to hear. Do you bother wiping down with linseed soap and priming with oil, or is it a belt and braces approach ? I don't think I can be any fairer than trying it. I'd sooner iron out these little issues on my own stuff to start with before thinking of doing it on somebody elses.
> ...


First hand experience. Appreciate the honesty Ed. Did you choose linseed paint or was it specified for the job ? 

Slightly off topic- I tried bedec barn paint a few years ago on my own projects. Everything about it rang alarm bells- waterbased, quick drying etc but it's been absolutely brilliant so far. I like trying new things especially if something useful comes from it. This is a learning curve and I'll give it a fair chance. That said I have to trial it properly before deciding to use it as my go to paint.
Years ago there was a new wood finish that was everywhere. Everyone recommended it despite it only being around for a relatively short amount of time. It was my go to finish for natural finish external woodwork,but without warning it vanished from the shelves. Supposedly a temporary thing whilst they ironed out a few issues. Apparently they had numerous complaints of the finish going mouldy so had no choice but to pull it from sale. The temporary pulling lasted 10+ years!!! It was only the other day I decided to Google them to see if anything had changed. It was back on the shelves but completely different formula (no longer waterbased) A few exchanged emails and they openly admitted the first products faults and then explained how the new product is completely different. - sent out a few samples to try as well !

So maybe that's why I'm a little cautious now. I recall a lot of annoyed faces when it came to recoating time, only for me to tell them it was no longer available and they'd be best to find something different.


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## Phil Pascoe (14 Nov 2017)

Chip shop":18fdo2zc said:


> In my limited experience (other than the white) it's been brilliant. I have to agree with Jacob. It's easy to paint on and get a decent finish. I've been looking at a load of doors, a window and a porch repair that I did on a place about 6 years ago (all in black) today, and they still look great.
> 
> One observation I will make, however, is they were all in unsorted. No hardwood, so maybe that is an issue?
> 
> ...


http://www.linseedpaintcompany.co.uk/ourproducts.html
http://www.traditionalpaint.co.uk/pure- ... paint.html

Both appear to.


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## Chip shop (14 Nov 2017)

ColeyS1":2kmal1er said:


> Chip shop":2kmal1er said:
> 
> 
> > ColeyS1":2kmal1er said:
> ...



To be honest that is what is starting to bother me. It's gone from Holkham to Allback with different colour descriptions over the last couple of years. If I can't get black now I'm going to have to explain to the client that all the boll'x that I sold them about the fancy paint is just that...boll'x.


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## Phil Pascoe (14 Nov 2017)

ColeyS1":2izr4eul said:


> Beau":2izr4eul said:
> 
> 
> > Beau":2izr4eul said:
> ...


I did my fascias with cuprinol, ali primer, two undercoats and one gloss, both Dulux Weathershield and didn't get back to them for fourteen years - I washed them and repainted, no signs of any deterioration.


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## Jacob (15 Nov 2017)

Chip shop":18yb9h03 said:


> ColeyS1":18yb9h03 said:
> 
> 
> > Chip shop":18yb9h03 said:
> ...


I got a tin of Allback black from Oldhousestore I think. Painted our old iron gate. Looks black still!
Holkham was marketing Allback under its own name - its the same stuff.


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## Jacob (15 Nov 2017)

Chip shop":az0m9t4y said:


> .........
> 
> I've never bothered with the linseed soap (never heard of it if I'm honest), but always prime with patent knotting (all over) then a coat of linseed oil. Wait a bit for it to try then on with the paint. The knotting raises the grain and the oil primer seems to key better. Please note; this knotting priming business is something that I cooked up myself. There is no tech data that supports this and it was done on a whim, but does seem to work.


Shellac knotting as primer is well known as extremely effective. I've removed old joinery where the only bits still in good condition were the dabs of knotting and the wood underneath. It was used a lot in glazing rebates which keeps them in very good nick and also easy to restore/reglaze etc.


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## ColeyS1 (15 Nov 2017)

phil.p":18eudr0n said:


> ColeyS1":18eudr0n said:
> 
> 
> > Beau":18eudr0n said:
> ...


Whaaaaat!! $£€*#$%!! Wowsers. I'd say it lasted pretty well then. Thanks Phil

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## Chip shop (15 Nov 2017)

> I got a tin of Allback black from Oldhousestore I think. Painted our old iron gate. Looks black still!
> Holkham was marketing Allback under its own name - its the same stuff.



Fair enough, but where do I get a tin of black from now? I've tried ringing and emailing them with no joy.

I think the point is, although I really like the paint, from a trade perspective, the distribution seems a little unreliable. The last lot I ordered took about a month to arrive (from Precious Earth not Oldhousestore).


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## ColeyS1 (15 Nov 2017)

I couldn't get the number to work on oldhousestores website. The number on the tin worked o.k though. 01189469146

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## Beau (15 Nov 2017)

Might be of interest https://www.mikewye.co.uk/product/stand ... reidezeit/


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## Chip shop (15 Nov 2017)

ColeyS1":1u8pj7b1 said:


> I couldn't get the number to work on oldhousestores website. The number on the tin worked o.k though. 01189469146
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk




Just had an email back from Oldhouse saying they've lost the franchise for Alback.


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## Jacob (15 Nov 2017)

Interesting. 
Allback have their own site http://linoljeprodukter.se/international and list a sole agent https://swedishlinseedpaint.co.uk/ (website under construction)
They seem to be an 'art' gallery https://atelierthink.co.uk/ (wall decorations of the Vettriano school  )
Perhaps it's catching on in a big way and people with money are jockeying for position!


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## ColeyS1 (15 Nov 2017)

Chip shop":3ch27bvj said:


> ColeyS1":3ch27bvj said:
> 
> 
> > I couldn't get the number to work on oldhousestores website. The number on the tin worked o.k though. 01189469146
> ...


Ah, that's interesting. When I initially looked at buying all the bits I noticed they sold allbacks own version of linseed oil. When I went to look again all I could find was liberon. That probably explains why it had vanished from the online shop. 

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## Phil Pascoe (15 Nov 2017)

Beau":2y70smtp said:


> Might be of interest https://www.mikewye.co.uk/product/stand ... reidezeit/




Good to see it's saliva resistant - when you're unhappy with the finish you're OK to spit at it. :lol:


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## ColeyS1 (15 Nov 2017)

Jacob":15783khf said:


> Interesting.
> Allback have their own site http://linoljeprodukter.se/international and list a sole agent https://swedishlinseedpaint.co.uk/ (website under construction)
> They seem to be an 'art' gallery https://atelierthink.co.uk/ (more wall decorations than art IMHO)
> Perhaps it's catching on in a big way and people are jockeying for position!


I wonder why they lost the franchise. I'd rate the oldhouse guy very knowledgeable and enthusiastic about the paint, perhaps they just weren't selling enough.

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## ColeyS1 (15 Nov 2017)

phil.p":6rzytvvk said:


> Beau":6rzytvvk said:
> 
> 
> > Might be of interest https://www.mikewye.co.uk/product/stand ... reidezeit/
> ...


Ha ha ha, that made me chuckle. 

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## ColeyS1 (15 Nov 2017)

One thing that's obvious is the drying isn't an issue at all. It takes two days for every coat. That's easy to manage.

I'm waiting for the linseed soap to arrive before I rub back and hopefully give it a final coat








Camera seems to focus better on my finger than the paint for some reason. Ignore the specs of dust in on the paint. I accidentally kicked it over when it was still wet. Fingers crossed linseed soap prevents the blotchyness happening again.

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## thick_mike (15 Nov 2017)

Has anyone tried making their own linseed oil paint? Pretty easy to do I'd imagine.


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## bugbear (15 Nov 2017)

thick_mike":7e21j99x said:


> Has anyone tried making their own linseed oil paint? Pretty easy to do I'd imagine.


It appears you need special linseed oil, which is very expensive.

BugBear


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## Chip shop (15 Nov 2017)

Jacob":32vrk7kb said:


> Interesting.
> Allback have their own site http://linoljeprodukter.se/international and list a sole agent https://swedishlinseedpaint.co.uk/ (website under construction)
> They seem to be an 'art' gallery https://atelierthink.co.uk/ (wall decorations of the Vettriano school  )
> Perhaps it's catching on in a big way and people with money are jockeying for position!



Thanks Jacob. Just ordered some from their website.


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## ColeyS1 (16 Nov 2017)

Linseed oil has arrived








Only says interior on the tin though. Ffs ! Do I need a special exterior version ?

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## bugbear (16 Nov 2017)

Allback sell their own linseed oil.

_Our raw Linseed Oil comes from Gunnarshögs farm in Skane, Sweden and is processed at our factory in Ystad. Here we extract the protein and clean the oil following a historic eighteenth-century recipe.

The raw linseed oil is ideal for impregnating old and dry timber as well as making putty and soap.

The boiled, i.e. oxidised, linseed oil is processed to create Linseed Oil Paint, Linseed Oil Wax and Linus Wallpaint. It can also be used to thin Linseed Oil Paint.
_

£11.00 per litre.

BugBear


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## ColeyS1 (16 Nov 2017)

bugbear":min1i7ow said:


> Allback sell their own linseed oil.
> 
> _Our raw Linseed Oil comes from Gunnarshögs farm in Skane, Sweden and is processed at our factory in Ystad. Here we extract the protein and clean the oil following a historic eighteenth-century recipe.
> 
> ...


Was that on the oldhouse website ? I couldn't see it when I looked the second time.

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## Chip shop (16 Nov 2017)

Nah, I think it's from here:

https://swedishlinseedpaint.co.uk/epage ... %20Shop%22

I've always just used Bartoline from Amazon. It's about 18 quid for 5 litres.


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## ColeyS1 (16 Nov 2017)

I'm slowly losing the will to live ! Lol
9 quid for delivery.

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## Jacob (16 Nov 2017)

ColeyS1":1eztcav8 said:


> I'm slowly losing the will to live ! Lol
> 9 quid for delivery.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


That's appalling.

Ebay?


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## ColeyS1 (16 Nov 2017)

Would it make a difference if it wasn't squeezed from the balls of an allback linseed goat ? Is there likely to be any difference from their version and a generic exterior raw oil ? Is it worth me risking it or should I just get an El cheapo version ? Decisions decisions decisions....

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## Chip shop (16 Nov 2017)

ColeyS1":3t92akky said:


> Would it make a difference if it wasn't squeezed from the balls of an allback linseed goat ? Is there likely to be any difference from their version and a generic exterior raw oil ? Is it worth me risking it or should I just get an El cheapo version ? Decisions decisions decisions....
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk



El cheapo for me, and I've not had any paint fall off yet.


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## Halo Jones (28 Nov 2017)

After an awful result with Dulux on our windows (lasted less than 2 years before needing completely redone) we have decided to go down the linseed paint route - mainly due to comments on this site. After lots of searching we are using a company called Oricalcum https://www.linseedpaint.com/

Not placed a full order yet but have ordered their sample card and a few test pots. Their black really is an impressive black!

H.


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## Phil Pascoe (28 Nov 2017)

I don't know what you or someone else did - my fascias were done with Dulux and were perfect after being untouched for fourteen years. My gate was touched up twice in twenty.


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## Jacob (28 Nov 2017)

phil.p":i3gg1nbm said:


> I don't know what you or someone else did - my fascias were done with Dulux and were perfect after being untouched for fourteen years. My gate was touched up twice in twenty.


Fascias and gate have one thing in common - they both hang free off the ground with bottom edges in the open air. If they get wet they will probably dry out well.
Rot sets in and/or paint lifts off where the water settles and stays longest - cills, bottom of frames, etc.
Worst of all where a cill is set on mortar, or heavily primed underneath - they can get waterlogged - saw through them and you get water dripping out and a wet saw


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## Farmer Giles (28 Nov 2017)

Slightly off topic but related, we are just having all the wooden windows in the house replaced with galvanised powder coated steel double glazed windows. The old windows needed regular treating and there's no way I'm doing that in my dotage. The other major benefit is light, the frames are a fraction the size of the old ones and having lots of small mullion windows suddenly we have loads more visible area and light, before they were like arrow slits.

The guys are fitting the last window and finishing sealing up tomorrow, my neighbour had theirs done 12 years ago and they look as good now as they did when they had them fitted so I've gone with the same manufacturer. The windows have thermal breaks in the frames so nearly as good as the wooden ones insulation wise.

Cost me an arm and a leg but should be the last big spend on the house until I'm inspecting the inside of a composite wicker compostable box - I hope.

Cheers
Andy


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## ColeyS1 (28 Nov 2017)

I bit the bullet and bought the all back oil





When it comes to doing the next sample I couldn't risk not using the stuff they recommend. While I was paying the expensive postage I thought I may as well get a different colour to try.
I need to rub down then wash down the sample window when I get time....enthusiasm. 

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## Halo Jones (29 Nov 2017)

> I don't know what you or someone else did - my fascias were done with Dulux and were perfect after being untouched for fourteen years. My gate was touched up twice in twenty.



I have no idea what went wrong - it was the weathershield system and I followed the instructions to the letter. It took me nearly a full summer to get all our windows done. I think when I complained about it at the time someone mentioned that they had moved from an oil to a water based formulation so that might have something to do with it. It is funny the exposed windows look terrible but all the north facing windows look practically brand new.

Anyway this is a project for next summer now!


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## Jacob (29 Nov 2017)

Halo Jones":2yoq6r9k said:


> ...... It is funny the exposed windows look terrible but all the north facing windows look practically brand new.
> 
> ....


Thats always how it is - the sunny side gets more much temperature variation and stress. Out of the sun the max temperature is going to be max air temperature and no higher. In the sun things can get very hot.


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## rhrwilliams (29 Nov 2017)

I use nothing but Linseed oil paint and its been a revelation for me over the last few years. I use Oricalcum https://www.linseedpaint.com 

I have just completed 2 large projects in London (one with 50 sash windows and one with about 16) and have another job which is being done now. 

The paint dries quickly if you use an infrared heat lamp so can be done when its cold and reasonably quickly. 

On a large job I think it may actually be cheaper due to the fact you get so much better coverage. The supply costs are not that different to Dulux weather shield... and it won't fall off in 3 years.


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## rhrwilliams (29 Nov 2017)

You also only need linseed oil and the paint ...thats it. The linseed soap is good but white spirit is just as good too.


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## Selwyn (29 Nov 2017)

I'd like to see about £15 cheaper as I think its overpriced but I have used to good effect


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## ColeyS1 (29 Nov 2017)

rhrwilliams":1gdy44y9 said:


> You also only need linseed oil and the paint ...thats it. The linseed soap is good but white spirit is just as good too.


Have you ever had any issues with blotchy colour like some of my pics ? I used meths to degrease, so perhaps white spirit behaves differently ? I'm glad you posted cause it's nice to hear you have enough confidence in it to do a large batch of windows. Out of curiosity do you prime with raw oil and how many coats do you end up giving it so it's finished ?

Your post has made me feel excited about it again !
Cheers 
Coley

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## ColeyS1 (29 Nov 2017)

Jacob":1vvkwlsg said:


> Halo Jones":1vvkwlsg said:
> 
> 
> > ...... It is funny the exposed windows look terrible but all the north facing windows look practically brand new.
> ...


That might explain what happened earlier this week. I've got an outdoor electronic thermometer and I needed to move it so it was with in range of the indoor one. I was having a fiddle and found the minimum and maximum temperature for the last few weeks. The sensor was tucked away a little bit but even so the highest reading was 54 degrees. I know it gets warm out there but didn't expect that kind of temperature this time of year- that's nearly as hot as my radiator ! When you look at it like that, it's no wonder some finishs have difficulty adhering to the wood.

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## rhrwilliams (29 Nov 2017)

Yes I have had had issues with blotchy colour , but only with colours (e.g not white) and only going over half burnt off / stripped joinery . However the blotchiness went after giving another coat of paint....

First coat with about 50/50 linseed oil for softwood and then 2 subsequent coats in just the paint. 3 coats in total. 
For hardwood you are supposed to mix some balsam turpentine in also to dilute to let it set in. 

A friend of mine who has restored a victorian sailing yacht has painted the whole thing in linseed and swears by diluting down a bit with balsam turpentine and says the best finish is obtained by putting it on with a rag, although I've not tried this. 

I have on my own house (not on a work job) because I am lazy, done just 2 coats on some things and 5 years on they are still fine. 

I was very very nervous the first job I did with Linseed paint as the contractor had never used it and I was petrified it wouldn't dry as it does take its time.


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## ColeyS1 (29 Nov 2017)

I'm a little petrified now of using it on a paid for job. I've not heard of the turpentine thing before. I'm trying to follow the instructions by the letter this time, just to see if it overcomes the blotchy issue which the allback guy seemed was 95% likely to using meths for degreasing. It's interesting you say the blotchyness went after the 2nd coat. This has had 3 now and it's as visible as ever.

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## ColeyS1 (29 Nov 2017)

It must be a brand specific recommendation cause the allback has no mention of using it. Thanks for posting the link to the stuff you use. I'll have a proper look around on their website to see what I can learn.
Edit










The allback guy said priming wasn't necessary, but your goes into detail of the ratio it should be mixed to. I reckon your paints probably better than the stuff I'm trying. The 30ml tester pots they offer would have also came in handy !


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## rhrwilliams (29 Nov 2017)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKj_qxSc0v4 

Watch this.


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## ColeyS1 (29 Nov 2017)

So that's another different brand recommending the balsam turpentine. Just had a look in the workshop and the only thing I could find is this




Not quite the same. I'll have a look about and see if I can find some. 
So far my next samples of linseed paint will be-

Wash down with linseed soap. Prime with raw oil followed by paint

Wash down with meths, then paint straight on

Wash down with linseed soap then paint straight on 

Lastly do the turpentine mixture followed by 2 coats you recommended

That should give me a bit more idea about what's going on. I'll try and do it from the same piece of wood so the results have more meaning.




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## bugbear (29 Nov 2017)

It's all sounding like a bit of a rabbit hole TBH. I think I'll stick (no pun intended) with normal paint.

Good thread - lots of viewpoints and info.

BugBear


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## ColeyS1 (30 Nov 2017)

bugbear":388d2zni said:


> It's all sounding like a bit of a rabbit hole TBH. I think I'll stick (no pun intended) with normal paint.
> 
> Good thread - lots of viewpoints and info.
> 
> BugBear


I'm starting to like the sound of this other brand of linseed paint though....





The postage seems reasonable compared with the 9+ quid I paid earlier. 
Just found this on there website aswell




Seems like they already put the zinc in the paint, so no extra tins/cost required. 
They also sell 30ml samples !!! The entire window only took 40ml so that'd be awesome. 
The thing I really like, is this brand of linseed paint being trialed on a massive job with very very good feedback. I also like the attention to detail on how to use it on hardwood. 

I'm seriously starting to consider trialing this sort. The allback doesn't recommend turpentine where as this brand does. I could follow allback's instructions to the letter and if it has issues, it has to be the paint. Same goes for this brand. Go through the motions using the recommended turpentine mixture first, followed by paint. If I get a sample of a similar colour I should find out if certain colours are more prone to blotchyness than others. For the sake of fifty quid, it'd then give two linseed paint manufacturers a good chance of success.
Did I mention this new brand has the zinc already added- wow !! lol 

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## rhrwilliams (30 Nov 2017)

Bug Bear et all - I have this circular argument on almost every job I spec Linseed paint on, then have the circular argument once more with the decorating contractor.....

The problem is "normal" paint is rubbish so its just not worth using. Not if you want a long lasting quality job in any event. 
Most stuff painted with modern paints (especially in high exposure areas and on things with moving parts like windows) starts to fail after 3-5 years and you have to repeat the process. Expensive and a waste of time and puts historic joinery at risk of decay. 

That is because very broadly paints yeas ago contained heavy crude solvents or lead - which although was not good for your health actually made some good quality paints that flexed with the wood and lasted. You cannot use these paints anymore (except lead paint if is a listed building or for boat building but I never use this) so you are left with the rubbish available now. 

Georgian and Victorian paints were usually Lead based but with Linseed oil in them also. The modern Linseed paints obviously do not have lead in but are very similar in performance. 

Modern paints such as Delux Weathershield for example basically have solvents in them that are EU compliant and in short makes the finish go rock solid - ;like a sheet of plastic over the wood which presents 3 problems; (see data sheet)
http://media.builderdepot.co.uk/media/c ... 470806.pdf 
1) It does not move so when the wood expands and cracks the paint does too. 
2) Once cracked - which it will crack - it lets water in, but it cant get out so it rots the wood. 
3) Once cracked it splits and breaks off - e.g it does not soak into the grain. 

Microporous paint is a joke really and does not provide the breathability required for timber. Especially softwood which moves more than hardwood. 

Also, why are we using these chemicals on windows - here is a list of the solvent make up of Dulux Weathershield ; 
Contains; 3-IODO-2-PROPYNYL-N-BUTYL CARBAMATE, ETHYL METHYL KETOXIME 
Its bad for the environment and just unnecessary as the product does not perform well either. 

Linseed paint soaks into the grain and is very flexible and breathable, meaning that it sticks to the wood and stays there. Its more like a stain in performance than a paint. So, 10 years down the line the window may look dirty and need re-painting but the wood will be basically still covered and protected. 

Also we need to think about why wood rots ? You need a sustained moisture level over a long period of time, so in theory if windows left unpainted - if they can dry out they will not rot. So we can see why Dulux and the like rots the windows as it holds the moisture in, thus meaning sustained elevated moisture levels + Rot. 

As for application, Linseed paint is just paint, its just slower to dry than modern paints with massive amounts of chemicals to accelerate drying. Its no slower to dry than lead paint. You can put it on with 3 coats with little else other than a paint brush. Its really really simple. 

Coley is clearly a craftsman, demonstrated by his fantastic work posted on here and is looking to obtain a absolutely first class finish ,so is going to great lengths to obtain the best finish possible and experiment with Linseed paint - hats off to him he's a craftsman. However, you don't need to do this to get a decent window and the reality is, there is no actual difference in application to "normal" paint - example 
Dulux Weathershield has 3 parts to their "system" - a liquid you brush on the wood, an undercoat and 2 to coat - so 3 tins of paint. 
Linseed paint - 1 tin of paint and some linseed oil to thin down the first coat if you want. 
Both systems use a thinner - white spirit / balsam turpentine - basically the same thing. 
Both systems use a paint brush 

Rant over. 

Coley - I would suggest you phone up Michalus from Oriculcum who runs the firm as he is a very helpful chap and will talk to you about issues you are having. He has decorated some serious buildings and has many many case histories and examples of the paint being used to great success and lasting a long long time. 
I have always bought from them as they are the only people I am aware of who have been operating on a consistent basis (e.g not running out of paint etc), they are also the cheapest all things considered, and the chap who runs it is very helpful and will always discuss projects with you.


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## ColeyS1 (30 Nov 2017)

Thanks for your time explaining this and recommending it in the first place. I haven't been called a craftsman before so appreciate your kind words. I enjoy my work and if this'll help whatever I make last that bit longer, it has to be worth the effort.

Oriculcums website seems much better setup with what could help a first time user- small tester pots, free printed colour cards, hand painted colour cards (for a small fee) If you're after a specific colour, the painted cards would save you buying lots of tester pots. I think I read somewhere on their site they can make specific colours from a sample, thats also a bonus! I think allback paints can be mixed but its something you have to do yourself by buying different coloured tins. Zinc being already added is also a bonus !

Proper excited about this again now. Not sure where I'm gonna put all these samples though !!!

Cheers
Coley

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## Jacob (30 Nov 2017)

Interesting to see all these new suppliers catching on. At least I think they are new, maybe they've been around quietly for years?
It's a bit like the real ale revolution - not much chance of a swing the other way taking us back to Worthington E and 'modern' paint.


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## Phil Pascoe (30 Nov 2017)

Nothing wrong with Worthing E - draught, that is, not keg.


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## ColeyS1 (5 Dec 2017)

Rubbed down the paint and washed down with linseed soap as per allback guys suggestion.





Quietly confident that should sort the patchy issue. 
Washed out the brush with soap this time





What a mess !!! It was a lot of effort washing it out but the brush seems reasonably clean now. Hopefully that should prevent any risk of solvent contamination on future samples.

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## Jacob (5 Dec 2017)

Wrong brush for linseed oil paint. You need a fitch - not sure of the proper name but several different sizes of these below. And you don't wash them you leave them suspended in oil (jam jar, hole in top, clothes peg).


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## ColeyS1 (6 Dec 2017)

I was gonna buy one of those brushes but was advised early on they were uneccessary and an ordinary brush would do ? 

If I change paint colour will the brush not need washing out ? I'm slowly but surely making progress with this. Thanks for sticking with me Jacob.

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## Jacob (6 Dec 2017)

ColeyS1":2k0ak1uq said:


> I was gonna buy one of those brushes but was advised early on they were uneccessary and an ordinary brush would do ?
> 
> If I change paint colour will the brush not need washing out ? I'm slowly but surely making progress with this. ....


Stiffish brush makes it much easier to brush out thin. If you use a conventional brush you can convert it by giving it a shave to make it shorter and rounded - like a well worn brush. There was a geezer on Ebay doing just that and selling them as specialities; ordinary Harris brushes which had had a hair cut. 
They are really difficult to clean thoroughly - but not impossible. Simpler to have a brush for each colour and keep them suspended in oil permanently so they never need washing. The time saved alone makes it worth while.
When you get to re-use a brush you can use the oil its been suspended in as a primer so it doesn't get wasted; another economy on top of what you've already saved on solvents, cleaning materials, time and effort! Win , Win!!


ColeyS1":2k0ak1uq said:


> ..... Thanks for sticking with me Jacob.....


No problem. It's interesting to hear what others are doing - it's all experiment and learning process for me too.


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## ColeyS1 (6 Dec 2017)

Nice one Jacob. I like the brush shortening/shaving idea. 

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## ColeyS1 (9 Dec 2017)

So it took an extra day to dry this time after being washed down with linseed soap.











Still patchy. I think I need to abandon trying to get this sample window looking consistent. It'll be a reminder to be more careful. 
Several items from the other paint company are out of stock, so I'll wait until I can order all of it.


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## ColeyS1 (19 Dec 2017)

Done the oricalcum order on the 12th and it arrived yesterday. First thing I noticed was one of the paints was on back order. Looked through the rest of the box and they've missed off page two of the order !! Lol So I'm missing the balsam turpentine and linseed oil, as well as the paint that's on back order. Rang the number and spoke to a guy 'who's alone in the office' Sent an email with pictures of page one with big red ticks next to it and page two with nothing. Awaiting their response. Joy 

I guess another thing to add to linseed application info is allow plenty of time for delivery !


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## garethharvey (3 Jan 2018)

I had this patchy looking effects on my paint, I have never had the issue when painting in the summer months. Only in the winter does it go patchy. I have convinced myself this is the issue.


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## ColeyS1 (3 Jan 2018)

garethharvey":1d7rheic said:


> I had this patchy looking effects on my paint, I have never had the issue when painting in the summer months. Only in the winter does it go patchy. I have convinced myself this is the issue.


That's comforting to hear Gareth. Did the patchyness ever go away or did it stay like it forever ? I've got all the other bits and pieces from my last order now, just need to find some motivation to get into it again. 
Cheers
Coley

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## Jacob (3 Jan 2018)

garethharvey":27yqlcjt said:


> I had this patchy looking effects on my paint, I have never had the issue when painting in the summer months. Only in the winter does it go patchy. I have convinced myself this is the issue.


Possibly applied a little to thickly. I had a prob when I first used it and had to wire-wool the shiny bits away. Been OK since though.


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## garethharvey (3 Jan 2018)

ColeyS1":1jwon269 said:


> garethharvey":1jwon269 said:
> 
> 
> > I had this patchy looking effects on my paint, I have never had the issue when painting in the summer months. Only in the winter does it go patchy. I have convinced myself this is the issue.
> ...



No, they all stayed patchy, it’s on a glasshouse so not so important. I painted these at the end of November, applied the same as I always do. They are still patchy now


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## Chip shop (3 Jan 2018)

garethharvey":w7g8caib said:


> ColeyS1":w7g8caib said:
> 
> 
> > garethharvey":w7g8caib said:
> ...



I don't think I've ever seen anything like that, but I'm still convinced it's an oily hardwood issue. I think we might have some sapele in the workshop, I might give a scrap a coat tommoz and see what happens. What was the glass house made of Gareth?


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## memzey (4 Jan 2018)

A little while ago I was dead keen on trying linseed oil paint. This thread has put me right off that idea though!


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## bugbear (4 Jan 2018)

memzey":bdj81l13 said:


> A little while ago I was dead keen on trying linseed oil paint. This thread has put me right off that idea though!


It's not a paint - it's a whole alternative lifestyle!

BugBear


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## Jacob (4 Jan 2018)

bugbear":sfuw2krv said:


> memzey":sfuw2krv said:
> 
> 
> > A little while ago I was dead keen on trying linseed oil paint. This thread has put me right off that idea though!
> ...


No it's just paint. 
It's very different from modern paints and this takes a bit of getting used to - but the end product is painted joinery in muted colours with an "eggshell" finish. 
Not high gloss, not the bright colours, not so self cleaning , but much more durable and permanent.


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## memzey (4 Jan 2018)

That’s what I thought Jacob which was why I was so keen on trying it. This thread just makes it seem like an almighty faff and nigh on impossible to get right. 

All jokes aside I probably will give it a go sometime but this thread has made me weary. I dislike painting as it is and had hoped that this type of paint would be easy to get right and not flake off after a couple of years like most modern paints do. It may well prove to be more durable but I certainly appear to have got the easy to apply part all wrong! If, as with most things, there is just a knack to this then it’s not coming across clearly, to me at least, on this thread.


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## Jacob (4 Jan 2018)

memzey":3piskwkc said:


> That’s what I thought Jacob which was why I was so keen on trying it. This thread just makes it seem like an almighty faff and nigh on impossible to get right.....


It's very easy to get right - it just has to be brushed out very thin, much thinner than you would be used to with normal paint.
It's very easy to get wrong if you try to lay it on thick like normal paint.


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## Chip shop (14 Jan 2018)

This has been a really interesting thread, and made more so by not so many endorses/detractors.

I would sum my experience up as follows:

Pros:
Really nice to paint on
Brilliant finish, even on manky old joinery
Low odour
Cleaning brushes is a doddle

Cons:
Drying time is bonkers in white
Getting hold of the stuff from order to delivery takes two to four weeks (which is bog all use from a trade perspective) 

All in all; I'm still using it. I will never ever use it for white again, as that has been disastrous on a number of occasions. Black, light blue and brick red seem to work OK. I still get the sense that there's a a bunch hippies somewhere that water in a bowl and dance 'round a camp fire to produce it, but hey ho.

For restoration jobs and re-painting manky old windows and doors it's great. But for production work it's not so good.

Merry New Year,

Ed


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## Halo Jones (14 Feb 2018)

OK. So we just bit the bullet and ordered three litres of linseed paint, colour matched to "The Bosses" favourite colour. This is for all our exterior windows and doors which I will be stripping, repairing and finishing in the summer. However, we have a new door to paint asap so I was wondering what the best way to store the paint will be as it is coming in one bloody great 3 L tin and I have read that if stored incorrectly it can skin over on top.


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## Jacob (14 Feb 2018)

Shake tin upside down a few times to seal the lid joint.
Decant enough to use into a jam jar and keep the big tin shut. Always open very carefully so as to not bend the lid and spoil the seal.
If not tight shut it can skin over but it stops at that. Lift the skin off and its OK underneath. No VOCs so it won't dry out like solvent based paints. Very long shelf life even if it skins over.

I did quite a lot of old work but without stripping. It took really well to old paint cleaned down. Seems to stick to anything - did a wrought iron gate - brushed off loose paint and rust without going to a lot of trouble, and painted straight on top.
It's a mega labour saver!


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## ColeyS1 (14 Feb 2018)

This reminds me I need to do the samples ! I ordered a sheet of exterior mdf (not tricoya) so that's one more thing to try it on when the time comes.

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## ColeyS1 (14 Feb 2018)

Halo Jones":zzho92be said:


> OK. So we just bit the bullet and ordered three litres of linseed paint, colour matched to "The Bosses" favourite colour. This is for all our exterior windows and doors which I will be stripping, repairing and finishing in the summer. However, we have a new door to paint asap so I was wondering what the best way to store the paint will be as it is coming in one bloody great 3 L tin and I have read that if stored incorrectly it can skin over on top.


What brand linseed paint did you get ?

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## Halo Jones (14 Feb 2018)

We ended up going with Oricalcum who seem to be UK suppliers for Ottosson Fargmakeri in Sweden.


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## ColeyS1 (14 Feb 2018)

Halo Jones":tcdm4f1i said:


> We ended up going with Oricalcum who seem to be UK suppliers for Ottosson Fargmakeri in Sweden.


I'm yet to try my oricalcum paint but have a good feeling that it might be better than the first lot of paint I tried. Keep us posted. 

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## heimlaga (10 Mar 2018)

One of my friends mixes his own linseed oil paint from boiled linseed oil and pigment. That's cheap.


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## Selwyn (8 Jun 2018)

Been doing a bit of linseed oil paint on doors and windows this week. By and large its been on top of old paint that was not flaking but had to clean out the rot in some areas and fill before painting. 

Its damn good stuff. Even if its not so good as a top coat on old paint as it would be if used on bare wood I think it still pretty bloody good. I now have about 30 windows and doors all the same shade of Allback Sage green and didn't even use a litre of paint and only one coat. And if I just check them once a year for rot or a bit of peeling I'm pretty sure thats going to be a lot easier than repairing flaking external paints. Also in the summer sun it dries in 24 hours

I went back on the gloss to touch up a few internals and I hated it - heavy, gloopy, spreads poorly. Yes the finish is a bit more mirrored but that is its only potential positive. Linseed is a joy to use in comparison - much lighter on the brush.

I'm now going to order some "old white" to do the internals of the rest of the windows on top of the old eggshell thats peeling again. It will only flake off when the underlying paint does but even then touch up will be easier as the linseed paint will last in the pot.

So I'm a mega convert. It is slightly dull shade wise but I actually think its cheaper in terms of labour and coverage.


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## ColeyS1 (8 Jun 2018)

Selwyn":2g8ohixs said:


> Been doing a bit of linseed oil paint on doors and windows this week. By and large its been on top of old paint that was not flaking but had to clean out the rot in some areas and fill before painting.
> 
> Its damn good stuff. Even if its not so good as a top coat on old paint as it would be if used on bare wood I think it still pretty bloody good. I now have about 30 windows and doors all the same shade of Allback Sage green and didn't even use a litre of paint and only one coat. And if I just check them once a year for rot or a bit of peeling I'm pretty sure thats going to be a lot easier than repairing flaking external paints. Also in the summer sun it dries in 24 hours
> 
> ...


Sounds like a good experience !!! Don't suppose you've got any pictures of the freshly painted windows ? 
My blotchy sample window has been sat on a shelf on display in the workshop. You have to get real close to notice the patchyness. Unless you were looking you'd just notice the main colour - far more likely to notice the window rotting away lol !

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## Selwyn (8 Jun 2018)

I'll get some but I know what you mean by patchiness I don't see it as a problem but that can be areas where the reflection is a bit duller than other patches. I also painted a pvc window to good effect. Probably needs 3 coats for pvc.


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## ColeyS1 (13 Jun 2018)

Has any of the patchyness evened out now it's had a few days to dry ? I'd have never thought of using it on upvc ! 

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## Selwyn (13 Jun 2018)

Yeah its not patchy its just a bit "dull" but I like it. Admittedly its sage green not white and may work better with darker colours. 

Need to a 3rd coat for pvc but to be honest 2 is fine. I'm going to get some grey and black next and use it on some cast iron downpipes and some metal windows next


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## ColeyS1 (13 Jun 2018)

Sounds good ! A bit dull is much better than rotten isn't it. If you get chance to take a few pictures I'd love to see them.


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## ColeyS1 (13 Jul 2018)

Needed to replace a rotten porch post so decided to softwood with linseed paint. No solvents this time so I was quietly confident.
This is how it's looking after the second coat.





That's really not good enough !! Paint brush hung in linseed oil between coats.




Perhaps it's just this colour. ........?

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## Bm101 (13 Jul 2018)

Thanks for the updates Coley. Will never need to use as much as you pros but great to see your findings.


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## Selwyn (13 Jul 2018)

What brand are you using?

I've used Oricalcum and Allback and I preferred Allback. 

I can live with a bit of blotchy if knowing its better for the wood personally


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## Jacob (13 Jul 2018)

ColeyS1":2lydzowu said:


> Needed to replace a rotten porch post so decided to softwood with linseed paint. No solvents this time so I was quietly confident.
> This is how it's looking after the second coat.
> 
> 
> ...


I drill a hole through the brush and hang it through a hole in the top of a jam jar or milk bottle with a nail or pin through the hole. You can leave them like this for months and then use the oil itself as a primer. Zero waste!
Normal brushes like the above are better when worn out but you can fake this by giving them a shave with a beard trimmer, into a rounded shape.


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## ColeyS1 (14 Jul 2018)

Bm101":2w7h6923 said:


> Thanks for the updates Coley. Will never need to use as much as you pros but great to see your findings.


No worries. I really thought it would have been better this time. I will persevere lol

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## ColeyS1 (14 Jul 2018)

Selwyn":1h3mrboj said:


> What brand are you using?
> 
> I've used Oricalcum and Allback and I preferred Allback.
> 
> I can live with a bit of blotchy if knowing its better for the wood personally


This is all back. The only thing left to try is to skip the first coat with the added zinc, perhaps that's causing the issue. The softwood was peppered with knots so I treated them with knotting solution, I don't think that could be the problem as they mention using it for glass rebates......? I could live with a little blotchyness but I'd say this is past that and it's almost two different colours !! Perhaps the final 3rd coat will even it out. It does cover well but I think it would be a limited number of people that would accept the colour differences. Final test with this tin on softwood is zero knotting and zero zinc. 

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## ColeyS1 (14 Jul 2018)

Jacob":152zul6m said:


> ColeyS1":152zul6m said:
> 
> 
> > Needed to replace a rotten porch post so decided to softwood with linseed paint. No solvents this time so I was quietly confident.
> ...


Thanks Jacob. I need to see that I'm making a tiny bit of progress with the paint colour before drilling a hole in a brush ! Ha. I will not be beaten, I will not give up. I've still got the different brand to try, still got various colours. I need some samples of timber to try various ways of applying it to see if that makes a difference- with zinc, primed with oil, no knotting etc etc.

Roger over on the a different place has had some success using white linseed paint on sapele. Don't think he had any colour issues, but did get a bit caught out handling it a little too soon after painting. 

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## ColeyS1 (14 Jul 2018)

Final coat just applied.









All the same consistent colour. It really is a lovely paint to apply ! Fingers crossed it'll dry the same.

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## memzey (14 Jul 2018)

Fingers crossed indeed! This thread has put me off trying linseed paint even more than the price - which is a shame as on the face of it there are some serious positives if it can be made to work consistently.


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## ColeyS1 (14 Jul 2018)

memzey":jxhenomh said:


> Fingers crossed indeed! This thread has put me off trying linseed paint even more than the price - which is a shame as on the face of it there are some serious positives if it can be made to work consistently.


I wouldn't hold your breath [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH AND TIGHTLY-CLOSED EYES]




Within hours darker spots are beginning to show. 

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## Jacob (15 Jul 2018)

I'd guess that it's gone on too thick - it skins over in parts take ages to dry, if ever. 
It's quite different from modern paint and you have to brush it out thin. You don't get a gloss finish. "Eggshell" is the best you can expect and that will weather and become chalky. But it goes a long way, sticks like sh*t to a blanket, lasts a long time and can be touched up with oil alone. I'm still all for it, 10 years in. 
I haven't costed it but I'm pretty certain it has gone a very long way - and it has very long shelf life in the tin


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## ColeyS1 (15 Jul 2018)

I really spread it out thin Jacob and the 3rd coat was dry within 24 hours. I'm also pleased to say the 3rd coat looks much much much much much much much much much much much better than the second coat. I'll take a few pictures tomorrow but there's only a few spots that look a slightly different shade. I shall be drilling a hole in the brush handle tomorrow ready for the next lot !!!!

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## ColeyS1 (15 Jul 2018)

Jacob":11x3bua8 said:


> and it has very long shelf life in the tin


That's one thing I did notice with the paint. With the first coat ages ago I mixed up what I thought was enough (with the added zinc) but still had heaps left over. I poured the left over in a jam jar. When I fetched it from the paint room I noticed it had separated and expected it to have gone off. I gave it a really good stir and it was like new. That would have never been usuable if it were oil based ! 
Progress has been made, not quite sure how, but it really looked quite impressive earlier. Thanks Jacob ;@)


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## RogerS (7 Jul 2020)

ColeyS1":i0g08949 said:
 

> memzey":i0g08949 said:
> 
> 
> > Fingers crossed indeed! This thread has put me off trying linseed paint even more than the price - which is a shame as on the face of it there are some serious positives if it can be made to work consistently.
> ...



OK...I know it's an old thread but it got referenced in a newer one and so thought I'd revisit. Especially as I've been using LOP a lot recently. 

Coley..looking at that photo, I'd still say that you're either still putting too much on or not laying off sufficiently.

That price is also a tad expensive !


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