# Hard wax oil over briwax



## Cappie49 (24 Oct 2020)

Hi
Brand new here and have a question I’m unable to find a definitive answer for, I’ve recently purchased a hardwood breakfast bar that has been finished with briwax dark oak. As it’s going to be for heavy use in a busy kitchen area, and I have two young kids, I’ve been looking at ways to waterproof it or extra protection. Don’t really want to strip it back so looking at hard wax oil, liberon state it can be applied over previous oil but can’t find if can be applied over briwax. Any help greatly appreciated also if hard wax oil can’t be used all suggestions welcome.
Thanks


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## Blackswanwood (24 Oct 2020)

I don’t think this would be a good idea. Hard wax oil is best applied to an open grain and is absorbed by the wood. If it is already waxed this isn’t going to happen.


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## Cappie49 (24 Oct 2020)

Thanks for reply any suggestions that don’t involve stripping the bar back? Would reapplying briwax every month do it?


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## Blackswanwood (24 Oct 2020)

Soemone may come along who is more knowledgable than me on the topic but I don't think there is a magic solution that you can apply over wax. Certainly regularly buffing it up with wax will keep it protected.

It may be with dropping Restexpress and Allfinishes an e-mail and asking them what they would recommend.


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## Cappie49 (24 Oct 2020)

Thanks I will


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## triker64 (24 Oct 2020)

Just looked on librons site and they state 
* TO USE

Preparation*

Ensure the surface is bare. Remove any wax finishes with Wax and Polish Remover and any varnish finishes with Fine Wood Stripper. Clean, dry and ensure the surface is dust-free. If required stain the wood with Palette Wood Dye before oiling.


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## Cappie49 (24 Oct 2020)

Yeah I’ve found that since I posted as well, I’ve emailed above companies to see if they can suggest an alternative. Thanks for taking time to read post and message everybody


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## Peri (24 Oct 2020)

Chestnut Products provide a handy chart showing which of their finishes can be used together - I think it'll give you an idea of what you can use.

Possibly their 'Woodwax22' would be an equivalent to Bri-Wax ?


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## Cappie49 (24 Oct 2020)

Wow thanks for that, I’ll look into the products that it’s compatible with. Thanks again. I really hope I can find something to go over. It’s got a great finish and I’d hate to strip it back


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## Nelly111s (25 Oct 2020)

I’d also suggest getting in touch with Osmo UK. Their products are good and Tech Support is helpful and quick, in my experience.


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## Cappie49 (25 Oct 2020)

Will do thanks


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## custard (25 Oct 2020)

A basic principle of finishing is never use a harder finish over a softer finish. Wax is pretty much the softest finish there is.


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## Cappie49 (25 Oct 2020)

custard said:


> A basic principle of finishing is never use a harder finish over a softer finish. Wax is pretty much the softest finish there is.


Take it I’m either gonna have to strip it or stick with the wax and reapply monthly then?


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## mrpercysnodgrass (26 Oct 2020)

Cappie, you will have to remove the wax if you want to put an oil finish on. 
Removing wax is quick and easy. You can scrub it off with white spirit and either number 1 wire wool or a scotch bright pad. Wet the surface with plenty of white spirit and let it sit foe five minutes, scrub the wax off in the direction of the grain and clean up with kitchen roll. You might have to repeat this two or even three times but it is no more than ten minutes work each time. When the breakfast bar is dry, sand lightly in the direction of the grain with 240 grit paper, dust off then you are ready to put your hardware on. Wax as a finish on something like a breakfast bar is completely wrong and should not even be considered.


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## Cappie49 (26 Oct 2020)

mrpercysnodgrass said:


> Cappie, you will have to remove the wax if you want to put an oil finish on.
> Removing wax is quick and easy. You can scrub it off with white spirit and either number 1 wire wool or a scotch bright pad. Wet the surface with plenty of white spirit and let it sit foe five minutes, scrub the wax off in the direction of the grain and clean up with kitchen roll. You might have to repeat this two or even three times but it is no more than ten minutes work each time. When the breakfast bar is dry, sand lightly in the direction of the grain with 240 grit paper, dust off then you are ready to put your hardware on. Wax as a finish on something like a breakfast bar is completely wrong and should not even be considered.


Thanks for that I thought it would need doing professionally. What finish would you recommend?


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## Bengoakes (26 Oct 2020)

Wax comes off very easily as said above, you can use solvents or elbow grease or mixture of both. Personally I like to sand the top using 60 grit, then 120 grit then finish off with 240. Vaccum dust off and wipe down with a damp cloth with meths. Osmo finishes are good, polyx oil works well, can take time to dry though. My preferred Option would be Sadolin PV 67. It's a 2 pack varnish, available satin, gloss or matt. You can put 3 coats on in a day and it's off rock hard within 24 hours. Similar money and lasts much better in a kitchen.


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## Cappie49 (26 Oct 2020)

Thanks for reply’s everyone and I’ll look into the finishes. Rock hard sounds good as it’ll get some use


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## Cappie49 (26 Oct 2020)

Which are the best solvents to remove the wax?


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## Peri (26 Oct 2020)

mrpercysnodgrass said:


> Removing wax is quick and easy. You can scrub it off with white spirit


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## emlclcy (27 Oct 2020)

briwax is not waterproof, it stains very easily. danish oil is what i use on wooden draining boards and worktops


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## Cappie49 (30 Oct 2020)

Ok lads decided to strip the bar back with white spirt and wire wool, I have everything I need and am gonna finish it in sadolin pv 67 satin, a stockist is close by, another question I’d like to stain it a walnut colour is there any particular product I need or will any walnut stain be ok?


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## CHJ (30 Oct 2020)

Cappie49 said:


> ... I’d like to stain it a walnut colour i...


Suggest a test area whatever stain you choose, ANY vestige of residual wax will result in uneven stain absorption. 
Tinting any product you use to finish may be a better option.


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## Cappie49 (30 Oct 2020)

How do i tint sadolin pv 67?


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## mrpercysnodgrass (31 Oct 2020)

There are products you can get to tint the PV67 but I would not go down that route, you are better off staining first. These Liberon pallet wood dyes are very good and easy to apply with a sponge they are a water based dye so should not be affected by the PV67.








Palette Wood Dye: Furniture and Interior Woodwork Dyes | Liberon wood cares


Really easy to apply : the Palette Wood Dye by Liberon. Discover all our paints and wood products. Find tips and advice for all your renovation works (flooring, decoration, protection...). Please contact us for more informations about our Palette Wood Dye...




www.liberon.co.uk




You said at the beginning your bar top is a hardwood but you did not say which. I mention it because if you want a walnut colour you will not necessarily get a walnut colour by using a walnut stain!! The stain you use will be influenced by the natural colour of the timber you are applying it to. That said you should be in the right ballpark by using the liberon dye but it would be worth staining the edge first to make sure you are happy with the colour.


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## Cappie49 (31 Oct 2020)

Thank you for all the help, I’m new to all this and the information people have shard has been great, thanks again everybody. I’ll post pics when it gets finished. I’m unsure what type of wood it is, I can email the maker and ask if needed, would pics of the bar help? It’s as I bought it still finished in the briwax


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## Cappie49 (31 Oct 2020)

With and without flash


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## Richard_C (31 Oct 2020)

Ah, just realised there were more posts than I thought when I wrote this so it's irrelevant. Can't seem to delete it though, but have managed to edit by putting this para in. Oh well. 

I use briwax to get a pleasing lustre on turned items that are not going to be handled much but its very soft. I have used microcrystalline wax applied over briwax for things that get a bit more handling but wouldn't recommend it for a kitchen worktop. 

My beech worktops were oiled when I put them in, then again after a week, then a month then left for a few years before sanding back and repeating. They don't like standing water, I get odd stains where wet things have stood for a while, like a damp bottomed bowl overnight. I've used acrylic varnishes on other things like coffee tables with good results. 

It's a trade off. Oil is less durable but dead easy to apply and to fix, but were I to do the kitchen now I would probably go with one of the modern satin finishes mentioned above.

We stayed in a holiday cottage a year ago which had really high gloss finish on wooden worktops. Might have been epoxy. It's a matter of personal taste but after the initial "wow" it was just too much shine and reflection for me.


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## mrpercysnodgrass (1 Nov 2020)

Cappie49 said:


> With and without flash


Your breakfast bar is made from pine of some sort. It was originally one piece that has been cut in half and opened up then joined. If you look at the semi circular marks on either side you will see they match and if you look at the smaller saw marks in the middle where the join is you will see they also match, these are where the board was turned over and put through the saw a second time because the blade was not large enough to make the cut in one pass.
If you use the liberon stain and the PV67 you will still get the finish you want but because of the heavy saw marks you will always have a 'rustic' look to it which if fine but if you wanted a smarter cleaner finish you will have a great deal of sanding to do to get those saw marks out.


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## Cappie49 (1 Nov 2020)

Was told it was hardwood but pine is fine I guess and yeah rustic look is fine, thanks again for all the help


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## mr.alan. (29 Nov 2020)

Personally - as you have stated it is going to be for heavy use in a busy kitchen area - I would forget about wax altogether. I would take it to local finishes and get them to put a two-pack lacquer on- failing that - Strip all the wax off yourself, and apply coats of polyurethane varnish.


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