# Finish for scrolled items



## whatknot (30 Oct 2017)

A random question 

I usually finish scroll sawed items with varnish if possible, or spray lacquer 

But either can be a pain to get into all the nooks and crannys

Anyone found anything better? 

Anything that could be dipped? it would of course need to be suitably thin so as not to leave runs and globs


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## NazNomad (30 Oct 2017)

Danish oil.

Teak oil.

BLO.

Nothing.

All of the above work well.


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## whatknot (30 Oct 2017)

Indeed and have used them all and still do when the situation allows it 

But you can't on fine scroll sawed work with small cuts, you can't easily get in them 

I thought it would be a question without an answer but thought I would try anyway 



NazNomad":3k4vz6uu said:


> Danish oil.
> 
> Teak oil.
> 
> ...


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## CHJ (30 Oct 2017)

Is your main aim to get maximum gloss finish or just to seal against handling marks?

If the latter then dipping in Cellulose sanding sealer or Acrylic sealer, which will take a little longer to dry but ultimately tougher. (Both thinned about 10% with appropriate thinner)
If not too fragile then both could be buffed with a bristle brush and waxed within a few minutes of drying.

Alternate suggestion would be to do the same dipping and then use your preferred spray Lacquer to finish, its penetration into the nooks and crannies would not be so critical as they would already be sealed and taken on colour cast.

If you go for Oils, trying a Hard Wax oil may be beneficial as its drying time is considerably reduced in comparison with many finishing oils.


(above are Methods I use on Bark and Burr items I turn)


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## whatknot (30 Oct 2017)

Thanks for that, I confess sanding sealer is not something I have used before 

I will have a look out for some and give it a try 

Main aim is to seal but I can see using sanding sealer and then such as lacquer will probably do what I want, the lacquer will show on the main surfaces 




CHJ":1nf7kaz4 said:


> Is your main aim to get maximum gloss finish or just to seal against handling marks?
> 
> If the latter then dipping in Cellulose sanding sealer or Acrylic sealer, which will take a little longer to dry but ultimately tougher. (Both thinned about 10% with appropriate thinner)
> If not too fragile then both could be buffed with a bristle brush and waxed within a few minutes of drying.
> ...


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## NazNomad (30 Oct 2017)

whatknot":3k06uczv said:


> But you can't on fine scroll sawed work with small cuts, you can't easily get in them



Chippygeoff did some pretty intricate lettering and he used a Danish oil bath to soak his work in.


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## CHJ (30 Oct 2017)

whatknot":16sxe9ea said:


> Thanks for that, I confess sanding sealer is not something I have used before



Then that would make finishing with a Lacquer much more problematical as you are going to get varying levels of surface absorption in the wood, especially end grain and may require more than one coat to get an even finish.


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## whatknot (30 Oct 2017)

My main problem with danish oil is that it colours, its okay for some things but not all

Sometimes I just want the same natural colour to remain but be sealed, gloss or not as the case may be

Plus the drying time with oil is way to long, even when wiped on but dunking takes an age to dry 



NazNomad":4focwppd said:


> whatknot":4focwppd said:
> 
> 
> > But you can't on fine scroll sawed work with small cuts, you can't easily get in them
> ...


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## whatknot (30 Oct 2017)

That is no doubt part of my problem

The sanding sealer may help in that regard 

Are all sanding sealers equal ? or is one better than another ?



CHJ":9xh2trzd said:


> whatknot":9xh2trzd said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for that, I confess sanding sealer is not something I have used before
> ...


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## CHJ (30 Oct 2017)

whatknot":2272wctk said:


> Plus the drying time with oil is way to long, even when wiped on but dunking takes an age to dry


Hard Wax Oil, at least the brand I use anyway dries in 4 hours or less, repeated coats can increase the gloss level.


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## Claymore (30 Oct 2017)

.......


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## CHJ (31 Oct 2017)

I use the same as claymore links to. Usually diluted 10 % with cellulose thinner for easier application with a brush.


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## whatknot (31 Oct 2017)

Thank you both 

Looks like I will be trying some out


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## whatknot (31 Oct 2017)

Sorry one question I forgot to ask 

Is sanding sealer clear ? or coloured ?


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## CHJ (31 Oct 2017)

whatknot":1kwqtcw2 said:


> Sorry one question I forgot to ask
> 
> Is sanding sealer clear ? or coloured ?


Clear, it will like any 'wetting' agent like water, pop the natural colour of the wood.

It can be tinted if required with spirit stains, in fact I sometimes do this to provide a subtly cast to provide a better match of different specimens of wood where direct staining would be too harsh.


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## whatknot (31 Oct 2017)

Many thanks much appreciated 

Funny how these things lead one to another, I checked the Axminster version which is £11.56 plus £1 postage

But had a google, and found one listed on ebay and checking the supplier find its about 11 miles from me and I must have passed it many a time without knowing they are there (just up a side street) and theirs is £9.95  

So will be paying a visit soon


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## CHJ (31 Oct 2017)

If you are new to using sealers or need a bit more information on finishes it might be worth your while having a read of some of the product usage information on the various manufactures sites. This is the information regarding the Chestnut Cellulose sealer for instance.


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## whatknot (31 Oct 2017)

Thanks for that

I was ahead of you there, I have read several articles on it and it appears that it may be just what I needed 

Looking forward to trying some 




CHJ":51s033d3 said:


> If you are new to using sealers or need a bit more information on finishes it might be worth your while having a read of some of the product usage information on the various manufactures sites. This is the information regarding the Chestnut Cellulose sealer for instance.


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## whatknot (5 Nov 2017)

Well I picked up some Chestnut cellulose sealer yesterday

As I hadn't used it previously I only wanted the smallest quantity which was 500ml, but they had sold out, so picked up the litre instead 

I applied some neat to several items, its a tad claggy as was mentioned, so perhaps I will add 10% thinners next time

Its rather like painting with wallpaper paste, a bit of a pain getting in all the nook sand crannies but using a small paint brush got there in the end, found the brushes clag up as you go along, by the end of several items the brush was a bit thick but all in all it wasn't to bad 

It brings out the grain as we mentioned, but the real revelation came after a very light sand of each item today

A lovely smooth finish to the touch 

Although expensive I think it will be worth it for the finish you get, I haven't applied a final finish as yet but as we all know the better the foundation the better the end finish 

Very pleased with it so far


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## Claymore (5 Nov 2017)

.......


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## CHJ (5 Nov 2017)

whatknot":3tgr5ukb said:


> I applied some neat to several items, its a tad claggy as was mentioned, so perhaps I will add 10% thinners next time


Thin some down about 10% in a suitable jar and keep your brush in it, wipe bulk off brush on inside of jar before use.
If it needs 2 coats so be it.


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## Garno (5 Nov 2017)

I have a tin of that but not used it yet.
Would it be ok to wax the wood after using this?

I assume I would need to sand it down to a 600 grit and then wax would this be correct? also would I lightly sand over the wax whilst adding layers?


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## Claymore (5 Nov 2017)

......


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## CHJ (5 Nov 2017)

Coating in wax over top is fine, that's it's basic function, to firm up any loose fibres and provide none porous foundation for finishing coats be it a wax or lacquer.
Sanding before application, on most woods 240-320 is fine especially if sanding with grain. Light sanding with same grade abrasive or Nyweb to de-nib (or buff)


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## whatknot (5 Nov 2017)

I gave the items a quick once over with 150 grit and they were a smooth as a babys botty

Perfectly acceptable for a final coat or just leave as they were 




Claymore":3bpzeqlc said:


> Its lovely stuff and like glass after a fine sand (I use 600 grit wet and dry paper) when waxed it feels silky smooth  also the fumes will clear ya head lol
> 
> Brian


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## whatknot (5 Nov 2017)

Thats what I shall try next time round 




CHJ":1vgyjtfk said:


> whatknot":1vgyjtfk said:
> 
> 
> > I applied some neat to several items, its a tad claggy as was mentioned, so perhaps I will add 10% thinners next time
> ...


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## Garno (6 Nov 2017)

Claymore":2jh5xkoo said:


> Garno":2jh5xkoo said:
> 
> 
> > I have a tin of that but not used it yet.
> ...



Very nice guide Brian thank you very much for taking the time to write it out.

Gary


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