# Scheppach HS105



## transatlantic (15 Oct 2016)

Having just tried the Titan tablesaw from screwfix (£99.99) and returning 2 because the pressed steel tops just are not flat in the slightest, and in general is a pretty awful saw, I'm looking for something else. I came across the Scheppach HS105 on display in my local tool store, and for £240, looks to be pretty decent. The table seemed flat (cast Aluminum), the fence seemed rigid, and the sliding extension seemed sturdy. There was a little slop with the miter gauge which I think could be easily corrected. It also has a 'dial in' angle adjuster, which most of the saws don't have, so I was pleased about that.

Apparently (from reviews) it's very loud  the Titan was much quieter than my other saws, so I'm hoping this might be the same.

Anyone have one? what are your thoughts on it?

I cam across this thread which was useful review-of-the-scheppach-hs105-table-saw-t98262.html


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## dynax (15 Oct 2016)

Hi TA, regarding noise, i live in a groundfloor flat and my current workshop is the spare room, straight across the hall from the lounge, with both doors closed the tv can still be heard on our normal setting, a slight increase of the volume and the saw can't be heard, and that's with the extraction on too, hth,

btw toolstop have it for 219 with free delivery,
http://www.toolstop.co.uk/scheppach-hs1 ... 40v-p72415


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## transatlantic (15 Oct 2016)

Thanks dynax!

I saw that form toolstop, but thought about getting this deal http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php?s ... AIxfslV2Uk ... although there is no power take off on the extractor so may think about that a bit more.

Few questions :

1) If it turns out that the miter slots are not parallel to the blade, is there adjustments that can be made to correct it?
2) If it turns out that the fence is not parallel to the blade, is there adjustments that can be made to correct it?
3) What didn't you like about the angle adjuster? having tested it in store, I thought it worked really well, allowed quite fine control.
4) Was your table flat? (did you test it with a straight edge)
5) Whats it like for adding a DIY zero clearance throat plate?


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## dynax (15 Oct 2016)

1. the top can be adjusted but the screws are really awkward to get to, it is doable though,
2. the fence is easily adjusted,
3. it was that the handle had to be pushed in the engage the adjustment feature,only a personal niggle,
4. table was flat, but the pull out extension had to adjusted, yes i used a spirit level,
5. don't know i haven't bothered fitting/making one, i'm using a 40t freud blade and the results are fine for my needs at the moment, if i move onto finer cutting i would probably fit one,

i saw that deal too, but i already had an extraction unit from my other ts, good deal though,


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## transatlantic (16 Oct 2016)

dynax":3o77sdvl said:


> 1. the top can be adjusted but the screws are really awkward to get to, it is doable though,
> 2. the fence is easily adjusted,
> 3. it was that the handle had to be pushed in the engage the adjustment feature,only a personal niggle,
> 4. table was flat, but the pull out extension had to adjusted, yes i used a spirit level,
> ...



Thanks!

I hope to pick one of these up in the next few weeks


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## dynax (16 Oct 2016)

don't forget to get some new blades, the stock one is a 60t, mine never saw a single piece of timber swapped it out straight away for a 250mm 40t, i wasn't too bothered at losing the 5mm difference,


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## transatlantic (17 Oct 2016)

Does it have a soft start? The leaflet next to the saw in the store I visited said it did, but I cant see anything online for it.

You also said it has a brake? but this video seems to suggest otherwise? 

https://youtu.be/tvIKrl7Qwhg?t=213

Perhaps there are different batches.


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## nbwood (17 Oct 2016)

Hi guys,

I've got an used hs105, and I found the fence not parallel with the blade. How do you suggest to correct the position of the fence?
Sorry for the noob question, but I'm just starting playing with the table saw.

Regards

nb


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## dynax (18 Oct 2016)

transatlantic":3gw64z8g said:


> Does it have a soft start? The leaflet next to the saw in the store I visited said it did, but I cant see anything online for it.
> 
> You also said it has a brake? but this video seems to suggest otherwise?
> 
> ...




no soft start, the motor is a braked brush motor, so the blade stops in seconds when turned off,


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## dynax (18 Oct 2016)

nbwood":ivyzvfgx said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I've got an used hs105, and I found the fence not parallel with the blade. How do you suggest to correct the position of the fence?
> Sorry for the noob question, but I'm just starting playing with the table saw.
> ...




the fence should be parallel with the mitre slots, and the table adjusted to the blade, there is some adjustment in the fence but that mainly relates to the locking lever at the front which can be altered by a thumbscrew at the rear end,


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## JonnyW (18 Oct 2016)

I have a couple of Scheppach saws and am very happy with them. I bought them through D&M Tools, and I can tell you with all honesty, their service is second to none. If your saw is out of square in any of the ways you have described and can't be easily rectified (by yourself) or is a fault, then they'll replace it in a heart beat.

I speak from experience, as my bandsaw casing came with blistering under the paintwork caused by oxidisation. It didn't bother me when I first put the thing together as I thought it was a built up of paint, until the rust started blistering through the paint.

Replaced no problems at all.

The slop in the mitre gauge is easily fixed using a centre punch to create a couple of small dents either end of the bar. Tried and tested method of taking slop out of gauges apparently.

Jonny


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## nbwood (18 Oct 2016)

Hi,


I just took a look the fence is not aligned with the mitre slot. nearly the end of the slot the fence move of around mm 1.5. How would you try to re-align it?
If needed I can post some photos.
Another thing that I noticed is that the riving knife lock is not working well and tend to unlock with the vibration of the saw.


Apart from this I think it's a nice saw.


nb


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## Arvacon (5 Nov 2016)

Could someone please upload some pictures about this saw? I am thinking to buy one too, but I can't find too much info at the internet about this. It would be nice if you could take some pictures of the upside down of the table saw, to show us how it is inside too.

As I was searching about this, I saw that Bosch PTS10 has a big drop at price now, as I can find it at 275 euros plus 20 euros shipping from Germany at some of these stores.
http://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/Off ... bosch.html

My question is, has someone any experience of both Scheppach HS 105 and Bosch pts10, to tell us which one is better?
At the last years, bosch seems to has drop the quality alot at green series tools.
I have the suspicion that this Bosch is not better than this Scheppach model, because there are a lot of negative comments around the internet for the bosch, but there are also some really good ones, so this has confused me more.

The extended right side of the table at hs105 seems more practical than the one at Bosch, but the sliding table of Bosch seems also a nice addition. There are a lot of differences between these two models, but the real concern is, which one is the most accurate at all? 

Does it worth finally to spend a little more for the Bosch, or should I choose the hs105? 

Ps: Dear transatlantic, did you receive yours? Are you satisfied?


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## transatlantic (5 Nov 2016)

Arvacon":3toqz7bx said:


> Could someone please upload some pictures about this saw? I am thinking to buy one too, but I can't find too much info at the internet about this. It would be nice if you could take some pictures of the upside down of the table saw, to show us how it is inside too.
> 
> As I was searching about this, I saw that Bosch PTS10 has a big drop at price now, as I can find it at 275 euros plus 20 euros shipping from Germany at some of these stores.
> http://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/Off ... bosch.html
> ...



Yep, received mine, very happy with it. SOOOOOOO much better the screwfix Titan which I returned.

I've only done very basic accuracy tests so far, but it seems very good.

Good points :

- Table is very flat. (Did have to slightly adjust the front rail though as it was a little proud. Very easy to do though)
- Table is Aluminum cast, not pressed steel like others.
- Extension table is very useful! ... didn't think I'd need it, but have used it lots.
- Mitre tracks are robust and accurate (they've actually stuck in 19mm t-tracks which is great for 3rd party attachments)
- Mitre gauge is robust and has minor play (which I plan on correcting with the punch method)
- Dial in angle adjustment is useful. A little figity, but much better than having to push the mechanism by hand like other models
- Not as loud as I was expecting (possibly a little quieter than my circular saw)
- Riving knife can be lowered

Not so good points :

- There is a little play in the last ~5% of the height adjustment mechanism. Which seems to skew any angle you have set. Easy enough though, just stop at around 95% height, or set the angle after.
- Parallel fence gets stuck when sliding sometimes. You have to find the sweet spot. Perhaps it needs a little lubricant?
- Plastic base is a little weak/bendy, but I don't think it'll be a problem if you're like me and will always have it fixed to a surface.
- Manual isn't great. No mention of how to correct things (like the 90 degree setting). So you have to figure it out yourself
- Power button is a little flaky. Takes a few attempts sometimes

Untested :

- Safety Guard
- Dust collection
- Stand

Tips :

- Semi engage the angle clamp while dialing in, it's easier
- Don't use the last ~5% of the height adjustment
- Slide the parallel fence a few inches from the clamp

Overall though, would order again if I need to. Very pleased


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## transatlantic (5 Nov 2016)

nbwood":13zgm7vh said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> I just took a look the fence is not aligned with the mitre slot. nearly the end of the slot the fence move of around mm 1.5. How would you try to re-align it?
> ...



In regard to the riving knife, did you make sure the knife and base have the little dimples aligned?


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## Arvacon (5 Nov 2016)

Hi transatlantic, thank you very much for these info! 
I have a few more questions for you.  

1. How about the rip fence, can you set and go with closed eyes and trust that it will be parallel with the blade all the time, or do you need to adjusting it by measuring both sides everytime, as at the most cheap saws? 

2. Does the extension table feels solid? 3. Is it at the same level with the main table? If not, can you adjust this? 

4. Do you feel any vibrations? 
5. Does the blade run true? 
6. Can it cut 90 and 45 degrees without the need of checking always if it is true?


Could you please upload a video or some photos of the inside/outside, to have a view about how it is made?


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## Nygie (6 Nov 2016)

Hi guys n gals (if there are any here) 
I'm new here, great forum btw.

I recently purchased the HS105 too, not used it much, but plan too.

I have cut some ply and found the amount of dust coming from under the saw to be a massive amount. What have people done to remedy this. 
I am upping the extraction I have which may help a little but ultimately I was thinking of blocking the gaps (or removing the rubber feet and bolting it down) putting a hole in the base underneath the saw and adding extraction to that area.

Thanks


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## transatlantic (6 Nov 2016)

Arvacon":50yj56lv said:


> Hi transatlantic, thank you very much for these info!
> I have a few more questions for you.
> 
> 1. How about the rip fence, can you set and go with closed eyes and trust that it will be parallel with the blade all the time, or do you need to adjusting it by measuring both sides everytime, as at the most cheap saws?
> ...



1. Will measure when I get a chance, but it's most certainly parallel to the eye (looking down the fence at eye level), and the cuts come out parallel
2. It's solid enough I think. I can get it to move a bit with enough force. There is a cam clamp that looks like it can be adjusted though to fix that
3. Mine is slightly below the main table, I will look to see if it can be corrected.
4. Will check
5. Yep
6. There is a 90 lock, that is just a cam attached to a bolt. But I have set the cam to be at about 95 degrees, and I just align the blade manually each time with a square. It only takes 30 seconds and to do, and I would be more confident than relying on the cam which could come loose over time.

I'll try and get some photos for you


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## transatlantic (6 Nov 2016)

Nygie":1k8pw7z3 said:


> Hi guys n gals (if there are any here)
> I'm new here, great forum btw.
> 
> I recently purchased the HS105 too, not used it much, but plan too.
> ...



As you said, people generally attach the base to a sealed box, with a hole in the top to allow the dust to fall through. This box is then sealed with some kind of draw to allow you to empty it. Lots of stuff online.

When cutting your ply, are you making sure that the blade is only just above the height of the wood? I've found that really helps contain a lot of the dust. Doesn't really help with other stuff, but good for sheets.


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## Nygie (6 Nov 2016)

Thanks for your reply Transatlantic. 
I have seen the box idea online, will give it a go. Just thought I'd check if there were any 105 specific ideas.
Yes to the blade height.
Thanks again.


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## Arvacon (6 Nov 2016)

transatlantic":wqc7827j said:


> I'll try and get some photos for you



:mrgreen: :mrgreen: thanks!!


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## Nygie (9 Nov 2016)

Ok got the hole in the saw shelf and a boxy type (triangle shape) attached underneath and a hole for sticking the vac in.
The next thing I was thinking was should I cut an inch off the extractor port on the saw and cover the curved hole (to reduce dust exit) and rely on extraction fom the collector box. Or do people remove the shroud under the table? 
Still use the extracor port on the back of the saw?
AS you might guess this is my first table saw 
Cheers


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## transatlantic (10 Nov 2016)

Nygie":1jy7snyv said:


> Ok got the hole in the saw shelf and a boxy type (triangle shape) attached underneath and a hole for sticking the vac in.
> The next thing I was thinking was should I cut an inch off the extractor port on the saw and cover the curved hole (to reduce dust exit) and rely on extraction fom the collector box. Or do people remove the shroud under the table?
> Still use the extracor port on the back of the saw?
> AS you might guess this is my first table saw
> Cheers




I think you'll have to experiment. My thoughts would be to use the extraction port as it was designed (as there is a "sealed" container around the trunnion mechanism), and just let any other dust fall through the hole with gravity (empty it out when needed), and cover as many other gaps as you can. 

I assume you made something like this ? I'd go with a box, as I'd guess it'll fill up pretty quickly.







The gap around the angle adjustment will be an issue. For that, most people cover it with tape, and then cut a line for the shaft to move along (the tape will bend).


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## Arvacon (10 Nov 2016)

Any news about that photos?


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## transatlantic (10 Nov 2016)

Arvacon":160ko46x said:


> Any news about that photos?




Sorry dude, haven't had a chance as when I leave for work, it's dark, and when I come back it's dark. So will have to wait until weekend. I'll try taking some tonight with my garage light to see how bad it is, but usually, my camera won't focus


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## Nygie (10 Nov 2016)

transatlantic":2lreql93 said:


> I think you'll have to experiment. My thoughts would be to use the extraction port as it was designed (as there is a "sealed" container around the trunnion mechanism), and just let any other dust fall through the hole with gravity (empty it out when needed), and cover as many other gaps as you can.
> 
> I assume you made something like this ? I'd go with a box, as I'd guess it'll fill up pretty quickly.
> 
> The gap around the angle adjustment will be an issue. For that, most people cover it with tape, and then cut a line for the shaft to move along (the tape will bend).



Thanks for that, my box looks similar but rougher.  
I think I'll try the tape method as described. Cheers.


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## transatlantic (10 Nov 2016)

Nygie":3j5ym4e3 said:


> transatlantic":3j5ym4e3 said:
> 
> 
> > I think you'll have to experiment. My thoughts would be to use the extraction port as it was designed (as there is a "sealed" container around the trunnion mechanism), and just let any other dust fall through the hole with gravity (empty it out when needed), and cover as many other gaps as you can.
> ...



Another idea is to have brisles along the gaps, like they do with the CNC dust shrouds :


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## Nygie (10 Nov 2016)

I had thought about bristles, i have some door brushes tha I may give a whirl.


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## transatlantic (11 Nov 2016)

transatlantic":3h1jbopu said:


> Arvacon":3h1jbopu said:
> 
> 
> > Any news about that photos?
> ...



Nope, no good. It woudn't focus.

In the meantime, this may help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvIKrl7Qwhg


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## transatlantic (12 Nov 2016)




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## transatlantic (12 Nov 2016)




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## Arvacon (27 Nov 2016)

Hi transatlantic, thanks for the photos.
I haven't check this thread since last time you told me about the pictures, so I just saw them. 
For some reason the forum platform doesn't send me email notifications about new posts.. I have checked the box of "Notify me when a reply is posted" choice.


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## transatlantic (27 Nov 2016)

Arvacon":w8d2yz7x said:


> Hi transatlantic, thanks for the photos.
> I haven't check this thread since last time you told me about the pictures, so I just saw them.
> For some reason the forum platform doesn't send me email notifications about new posts.. I have checked the box of "Notify me when a reply is posted" choice.



No problem man!

were they useful at all?


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## Arvacon (27 Nov 2016)

Yes they have enlighten the things a lot. 
Mine is on the road now.


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## transatlantic (27 Nov 2016)

Arvacon":35khgszp said:


> Yes they have enlighten the things a lot.
> Mine is on the road now.



cool!

Do post your feedback on it, it would be interesting to see


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## Arvacon (7 Dec 2016)

Hi transatlantic and everyone. 

I have received mine finally. First impression was ok, although I had a disappointment with the package, as the German eshop sent me a probably returned or expository item, as the box was already opened and the items were removed from the plastic bags too. Because I live in Greece, after I inspected the saw I decided to not argument with them and just keep it, as it would be difficult to send this back and take my money without having troubles, so I was feeling discouraged to do this and tired of waiting to do my work.

The box came almost open, with old unglued packing tape that it was passed several times up to the top. This guy didn't bother even to use some new packing tape at all, although he promised me that he would taking extra care of the parcel to be very carefully protected, but finally he did the opposite, so that was very frustrating. The box came without pallet, it had a strong hit at one side, but fortunately the styrofoam even it has broken from the impact, it saved the saw. Only the rip fence is a little bend at the back side (but I will fix this), because it was not at safe position, as they had just throw all the spare parts beside the saw randomly.

At least the machine seems it had never been working again. I checked for the blade and it runs true. The table seems flat with a small gap at the left and right end sides, but this is under 0.5mm I think. This divergence seems to be at the parts that they are at the out side of the mitre guides. The blade is not parallel with the guides, so it need some work to become aligned and ready for use. The lift mechanism seems to need some improvement too, as it needs a little force to turn the handle. I noticed also the little change of the disk's angle, in the last ~5% of the height adjustment mechanism, that you had mentioned before, but there is a way to fix this problem and use the 100% of high I think.

I decided to disassemble everything and start assemble all the parts from the beginning, to be sure that everything is aligned correctly. I am used to doing this when I buy new Chinese tools, as at the past I have found a lot of unscrewed screws and misalignments. Indeed in this saw I found some important screws unscrewed too.

Finally I have disassembled everything now and I am thinking about how to improve the lift mechanism for the moment. What I also found is, that the main frame metal body at mine, is not painted and as I was watching today your photos again, I think as I can see, that yours is painted black! Dear transatlantic, can you confirm this? Mine has oil everywhere at the metal part and probably it needs painting, as if the oil will dry with the wood dust, it will become rusty. Did they forget to paint mine? Go figure!

Anyway, overall the motor seems powerful, the table seems solid, the plastic base and the metal stand also seems robust and if this saw was coming correctly aligned from the factory, it would be a nice choice. It seems to be a copy of the American Bosch 4100 table saw, as it has almost identical design, so that is good thing IMHO. If you are fan of DIY, Chinese always leave some homework for you with these cheap saws, but you must wish that this homework is easy to repair and not a malfunction that you can't fix it at all, so first you need to inspect it carefully and if you see that the castings or other important things seems straight, then if you have appetite, keep it and make it better.

A last note only, you must keep in mind that there is not any perfect Chinese cheap table saw (or other machines too), this is almost a rule! So don't search for the perfect one, but for the "I want become perfect" one.  

PS: I will upload some pictures soon.


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## transatlantic (9 Dec 2016)

Arvacon":2x8xtjt3 said:


> Hi transatlantic and everyone.
> 
> I have received mine finally. First impression was ok, although I had a disappointment with the package, as the German eshop sent me a probably returned or expository item, as the box was already opened and the items were removed from the plastic bags too. Because I live in Greece, after I inspected the saw I decided to not argument with them and just keep it, as it would be difficult to send this back and take my money without having troubles, so I was feeling discouraged to do this and tired of waiting to do my work.
> 
> ...




Hey man, very sorry to hear how yours arrived, that is not acceptable at all! ... When I opened mine I could tell it was a return too, as everything was unwrapped and the bags scrunched up in the corner of the box. Although I don't think it had been used as there was no dust ..and I doubt they would clean off dust but not pack things?. I contacted the place that sold it to me (DM tools) and they were very helpful, and agreed to send me out a free dust extractor (HA1000) as compensation, which I thought was very fair.

Very interesting to hear you decided to dismantle the whole thing? I'm not so confident I'd get it back togeather again! But please do post any corrections you think would help. All I have done so far is loosen a few of the bolts to align things, like the extension wing.

As for the mitre slot alignment, mine was ok. But suspect you can loosen the trunion from the table top and hopefully there is enough play to align things.

I haven't checked my blade, but it seemed ok to me, although I'll be changing for a better quality finer tooth one anyway.

Parts of mine are indeed painted black underneath, but you'd have to point out the exact bit you mean to be sure.

I hope you'll get back into contact with the dealer and get compensation for the condition it arrived in. Either a partial refund or at least a new blade!! It's a lot of money!


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## Arvacon (9 Dec 2016)

Yep that's right, it's a lot of money and I was expect at least something properly sealed.
Sometimes when I disappointed, I don't feel the appetite to argument with these kind of sellers. I sent them an email to take extra care about shipping and handling of this device and they answered me that everything will be as I requested and they will extra care about this. Bulls*#t!

I have seen a lot of times unscrewed screws at important parts in other machines, straight out of the box, so that's why I decided to dismantle it, as I trust more myself than the Chinese workers. It was not that hard, the only difficult was to remove the plastic base without unscrew the trunions, but if you remove it diagonally, it comes off finally. 
You are lucky that they treated you with this way. Maybe I should try to contact with them now that I have calm down, but it's been more than 10 days that I have received it and maybe it is a little late to complain now.

I will make some improvements at high adjustment axis and I will try maybe to seal the gear parts from the dust, but we will see. The trunions have plenty of play, so you can adjust the blade's base. I will probably make a new topic about these improvements and I will upload photos when I will have make a progress. 

Sorry for the full sized pictures that they made this post too long, but I tried to upload them at forum's server and it has not enough space. At the last photos you will see the metal base part that I was talking about, as it is bare metal without paint and with visible grinding marks from the factory.


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## MikeJhn (13 Dec 2016)

The beauty of buying with a credit card, get the CC company to contact the seller as being unacceptable/damaged on receipt and just let the ball roll.

Mike


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## Bodgers (13 Dec 2016)

Arvacon":16j5drve said:


> Yep that's right, it's a lot of money and I was expect at least something properly sealed.
> Sometimes when I disappointed, I don't feel the appetite to argument with these kind of sellers. I sent them an email to take extra care about shipping and handling of this device and they answered me that everything will be as I requested and they will extra care about this. Bulls*#t!
> 
> I have seen a lot of times unscrewed screws at important parts in other machines, straight out of the box, so that's why I decided to dismantle it, as I trust more myself than the Chinese workers. It was not that hard, the only difficult was to remove the plastic base without unscrew the trunions, but if you remove it diagonally, it comes off finally.
> ...


It might be a lot of money, but it isn't a lot of money for a Tablesaw unfortunately. 

It sounds like an awful lot of work ahead.

Jumping up to something like a TS200, whilst not perfect itself, would give you something really worth a few tweaks, in terms of noise and accuracy etc.

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk


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## samball (22 Jan 2017)

I've been reading this thread before buying my HS105 and it helped me a lot so I want to contribute to it.

As noted in the thread, the blade was not parallel with the mitre slots so I contacted Scheppach support and they send me the schematics of the HS105 (which is partially attached to this post).

Now bracket no. 59 holds the blade to the table so if you loosen bold no. 62 (3 bolts on each side of the blade) you can turn the blade so that it will be parallel to the table, after that fasten the bolds again.

Another problem I had was that when the angle of my blade was set to 90o it wasn't set square to my table but I could not move it any further to make it 90o. so to solve this problem, I took out screw no. 19 which was holding a round metal stop for the maximum rotation angle of the blade to the table. now I haven't moved it back yet but I will after I make it a little smaller so that I can turn it to 90o without needing to measure if it's square every time I change the angle.

I hope this will help others with their HS105. It's a really nice little saw that can handle a lot!


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## Arvacon (22 Jan 2017)

You don't need to make the 19 part smaller. The part 18 has cam hole, so if you loose the 19 screw and turn around the 18, then you can adjust the mechanism to 90 degrees or more.


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## transatlantic (22 Jan 2017)

I find it's much easier to disable the cam and use a square each time. Annoying, but I trust that approach a lot more.


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## georgemharris (11 Feb 2017)

Hi guys,

I got my saw this week and am pretty darn happy with it so far. It's much better (flatter, quieter, smoother, robust fence) than the aldi saw its replaced

One thing that confuses me is the measuring tape stuck to the sliding extension front. It measures reasonably accurately when the extension is retracted, but doesn't seem to relate to anything when the extention is out. There's a second line of tape closer to the table than the first two, but this, to me, doesn't seem to measure anything useful that I can see. Has anyone got any clues?

Thanks in advance, this discussion went a long way to convincing me that this was a good saw to buy at the price! 

George.


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## Trebor2585 (3 May 2017)

Just wanted to thank everyone for their great tips and advice on this thread. I'd already bought the saw but hadn't a clue on how to properly set it up..

Has anybody else had any problems with the riving knife. Finding it difficult to get it in line with the blade, so the cut tightens up when when coming out the other side. It had one washer under one side where the knife is attached to the housing, under one of the grub screws so it was higher on one side (not sure why though), removing it made no difference. Any ideas?, or is this normal?

Thanks in advance!


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## MikeJhn (4 May 2017)

georgemharris":3qo5ooux said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I got my saw this week and am pretty darn happy with it so far. It's much better (flatter, quieter, smoother, robust fence) than the aldi saw its replaced
> 
> ...



The tapes on all of these saws will in most case's only work when the fence is in one configuration, left or right of the blade, if your fence has a thin stock position it may be the second line of tape relates to the fence in that position.

Mike


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## MikeJhn (4 May 2017)

Trebor2585":3h6cp6wt said:


> Has anybody else had any problems with the riving knife. Finding it difficult to get it in line with the blade, so the cut tightens up when when coming out the other side. It had one washer under one side where the knife is attached to the housing, under one of the grub screws so it was higher on one side (not sure why though), removing it made no difference. Any ideas?, or is this normal?
> 
> Thanks in advance!



No the riving knife should be in line with the blade, first take the riving knife out of the saw and lay it on a flat surface to check it is straight, there should be washers or an elongated fixing to allow positioning of the knife directly behind the blade.

Mike


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## transatlantic (4 May 2017)

I remember having to remove a washer to make mine straight. It was a very very thin washer though, pretty much a shim as I recall.

It's helpful to clamp a straight edge against the blade body (between cutting teeth) so you can dial the adjustment for the knife in accurately.

And as Mike said, check the knife is actually flat in the first place.


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## Trebor2585 (5 May 2017)

Thanks @transatlantic and @Mike. I don't know how it didn't occur to me to check the knife was actually straight......seems obvious in hindsight...

Anyway, will let you lads know how it goes. Thanks again!


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## melita (5 May 2017)

Hi all, recently I bought a scheppach table saw the hs 105 but after a month the rotor blows up as it start to make lot of spark near the brushes. Does anyone knows where I can purchase parts online as I cant find Thanks


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## samball (6 May 2017)

Doesn't this fall under the warranty?
If not, try contacting Scheppach and see if you can order the spare parts from them.


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## Trebor2585 (8 May 2017)

So, making good progress. Blade is now square (99 degress) to the table, and running parallel to the mitre slots! Yay!
Thank you arvacon and samball for the pictures and description of how to do this, very helpful

Took the riving knife out when sorting above two issues, looks straight and flat, but have not put it back in yet, as all I've been doing so far is ripping the rounded edges off of cheap 2x4's! I think it will be fine now though.

Next job is dust collection! Haven't been woodworking very long and up until now I've worked only really with hand tools, so dust was never really an issue for me, but it sure is now! Got a titan shopvac from scewfix for 50euro, not expecting much for that price, but it's gotta be better than nothing. I think I need to make cyclone type thing to go between vac and saw so the blower on vac is blowing all the dust back out as it is now, or else put the bag in the vac so dust doesn't fly back out....... fun times!

You all have been been a great help, thank you very much.


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## transatlantic (9 May 2017)

Trebor2585":3e82f31n said:


> So, making good progress. Blade is now square (99 degress) to the table, and running parallel to the mitre slots! Yay!
> Thank you arvacon and samball for the pictures and description of how to do this, very helpful
> 
> Took the riving knife out when sorting above two issues, looks straight and flat, but have not put it back in yet, as all I've been doing so far is ripping the rounded edges off of cheap 2x4's! I think it will be fine now though.
> ...



For what its worth, you should absolutely get that riving knife back in as soon as possible, especially when cutting stuff like CLS which is going to have a high moisture content and probably unstable stresses which will release when cutting. It's not worth it dude!

Also - if you shop vac is blowing dust back out, that is usually because you don't have the filter on properly.


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## Trebor2585 (11 May 2017)

transatlantic":3tuajgmm said:


> For what its worth, you should absolutely get that riving knife back in as soon as possible, especially when cutting stuff like CLS which is going to have a high moisture content and probably unstable stresses which will release when cutting. It's not worth it dude!
> 
> Also - if you shop vac is blowing dust back out, that is usually because you don't have the filter on properly.



Absolutley, will get it back on. 

The filter that cane with the vac is one of those crappy foam ones, but it came with a bag too, which helped a lot. Pain in the buttocks to empty though. Will have to make something, a cyclone and cart I think, to improve matters.

Cheers man!


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## dynax (12 May 2017)

for all the HS105 owners, i cut up some 3 x 8 timber for an upcoming project, and it handled the 3" thickness no problem using a Freud 24T 250mm rip blade, the actual timber size is 73mm x 195 and the blade was 2-3 mm higher, still have some more to cut when i know what sizes i need,cheers,


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## smiley65 (14 Sep 2017)

hi everyone i have just bought a pingtek 255mm table saw which is a rebrand of the scheppach hs105 my question is when i pull out the sliding table part it dips down a couple of mm is there a way to adjust it?and any other tips would be great,all so when you remove the cutting plate there are 4 screw holes are they for being able to make this plate sit level if so does anyone know where i can get them from and what size ect


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## Jseymour (16 Jan 2018)

Just bought one of these. Is there an adjustment to align the fence to the mitre slots? 
I've seen the photos of the bolts to align the table to the blade.
Thanks in advance


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## transatlantic (17 Jan 2018)

Jseymour":3jzit1bi said:


> Just bought one of these. Is there an adjustment to align the fence to the mitre slots?
> I've seen the photos of the bolts to align the table to the blade.
> Thanks in advance



I seem to remember doing this. I think it was two bolts where the fence attaches to the locking mechanism.

Also - you might be interested in for-those-of-you-with-a-sloppy-mitre-gauge-t110113.html


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## MikeJhn (17 Jan 2018)

Just a clarification, you need to align the saw blade to the mitre slot first and then align the fence to both, sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs, but I did notice it was your first post.

Welcome to the Forum by the way.

Mike


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## chiokli (3 Jun 2018)

So I bought one of these last week from FFX, and initially I was happy with it after being able to set it up and get it nice and level and square (after also discovering that the leg assembly did not have any fixings included).

On using it today, I've discovered that the top is not flat specifically on the right side between the blade and the mitre slot. It is flat front and back, but across the centre of the table (parallel to the axle), it has a bit of a "bulge". This has made checking the blade for 90° to the table problematic, especially as the insert plate isn't perfectly flush with the table either. The top is cast aluminium, and I'm not sure how to solve this, if at all. 

I realise paying £229 for a table saw is expecting some fettling, but I don't how if I can fettle this issue.


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## transatlantic (4 Jun 2018)

chiokli":2iqza1lr said:


> So I bought one of these last week from FFX, and initially I was happy with it after being able to set it up and get it nice and level and square (after also discovering that the leg assembly did not have any fixings included).
> 
> On using it today, I've discovered that the top is not flat specifically on the right side between the blade and the mitre slot. It is flat front and back, but across the centre of the table (parallel to the axle), it has a bit of a "bulge". This has made checking the blade for 90° to the table problematic, especially as the insert plate isn't perfectly flush with the table either. The top is cast aluminium, and I'm not sure how to solve this, if at all.
> 
> I realise paying £229 for a table saw is expecting some fettling, but I don't how if I can fettle this issue.



How big of a bulge are we talking? how 'high' above the rest and over what size of area?

I have had good success in improving the flatness of my cheap surface planer by attaching Wet/Dry to some float glass (that I already had) and using circular motions to average things out. Obviously it won't be perfect, but it is much better than it was. This was easier in my case as I wast able to take the infeed table to the float glass (it's a very small planer).

The table has some thickness, you might be able to try it. Assuming we're only talking about fractions of a mm .. In your case, you might get better results by using some thick MDF and a roll of 180 grit paper. Maybe also with some steel tubing attaching to the MDF to keep it flat. But I suspect you won't want to do this due to voinding the warranty.

Have you also checked it's not something underneath pushing up too much that might be causing the buldge?


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## chiokli (4 Jun 2018)

So, across the axle, there is about a 1mm gap to the table on either side of the insert plate at the extent of the table left and right (not including the slide out extension). So if I lay the straight edge tight on the right side, there is a 2mm gap on the left edge of the table, and vice versa. Looking again, it is around where the insert plate goes. The very front edge and the very back edge of the main casting is good and flat, just where that cut out for the insert plate is where things go wonky. I did have a look underneath and can't see any obstructions that might be deforming the top, the entire structure is pretty much suspended from the top. 

My main issue is the hassle of packaging it back up, paying £16 for a courier to return it to FFX and potentially getting another duff one, whilst all this time the good summer days are disappearing and my willingness to work out in the shed dwindles. I would not be above flattening the top, I've scraped steel flat before albeit in much smaller sizes. Just wondering if those are my options.


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## custard (4 Jun 2018)

chiokli":2gyuns1a said:


> My main issue is the hassle of packaging it back up, paying £16 for a courier to return it to FFX and potentially getting another duff one



Manufacturers and retailers seem to count on exactly this reaction. If only a small percentage of buyers are prepared to deal with the hassle of returns then they'll just keep making and selling crepe machinery.

Why not contact FFX and insist that they send the delivery courier back to drop off a replacement and collect the faulty one at the same time? I _know_ FFX will do this, because they did it for me! And if the replacement is just as bad then it's simple, you're entitled to a full refund.

Incidentally, problems like you're experiencing are red warning flags of further problems lurking in wait. I'll give you just one example. 

One of the basic tests you should conduct on any new saw is to raise the blade to the full extent, tilt it over to 45 degrees, then either rip or crosscut a thick piece of scrap (as thick as possible with the blade fitted). Check to see if there's any burning or scorch marks on one side of the cut. If there are then the trunnions are misaligned. On a lower priced saw it's very common that the trunnion alignment will be okay when the saw is in a vertical position, but thick stock on an angled cut often shows up the weaknesses in the engineering. Shimming out the problem, while still retaining accurate non-angled cuts, can be done, but it's a lengthy and quite technical procedure.


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## Bill1950 (22 Jul 2018)

Hi guys ... New to the forum and seriously thinking of buying the Scheppach HS105 ( from Screwfix, primarily because of their unbeatable 30 day return policy with no questions asked).
Having read through this excellent thread, I am confident that this is a decent budget saw that can give precision with a little fettling.
Just a couple of questions if I may ...

Is it worth setting the saw up with the supplied blade or should I use a decent Freud blade from the off?

Can the riving knife be easily removed for rebate cutting? 
I have read that the riving knife does not need to be removed and can be lowered beneath the blade ... If so, how far below the blade? In other words, how deep a rebate cam be cut with the riving knife lowered?

Thanks in advance for any answers.


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## transatlantic (22 Jul 2018)

Bill1950":1rg3td7u said:


> Hi guys ... New to the forum and seriously thinking of buying the Scheppach HS105 ( from Screwfix, primarily because of their unbeatable 30 day return policy with no questions asked).
> Having read through this excellent thread, I am confident that this is a decent budget saw that can give precision with a little fettling.
> Just a couple of questions if I may ...
> 
> ...



The riving knife can be lowered just below the blade, so you can make rebate cuts. I'm not sure I understand why you need it any lower?

I used the blade that came with it for a good few months. It does the job. I then upgraded to a Feud blade and the cut is SO much cleaner.

Having said that, I probably wouldn't cut rebates or grooves on a table saw, as the tooth pattern means you need to clean it up before gluing. Unless you invest in a flat tooth blade. I think the router table is the better tool for this kind of job.

Or did you mean doing the rebate in two cuts? it'll be fine for that.


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## Bill1950 (22 Jul 2018)

Thanks for your reply. I need to trim a square section piece from one corner length ways.ie: a rebate cut and then flip the timber and a second rebate cut at 90 degrees to the first cut which will thus remove the scrap piece from the corner.
As for the riving knife question, I think I am slightly confused ( wouldn't be the first time lol) ... So with the knife in its lowered position just below the blade teeth, does it still rise and fall with the blade or is it locked down and thus you cut without a knife?


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## transatlantic (23 Jul 2018)

Bill1950":3jor0c89 said:


> Thanks for your reply. I need to trim a square section piece from one corner length ways.ie: a rebate cut and then flip the timber and a second rebate cut at 90 degrees to the first cut which will thus remove the scrap piece from the corner.
> As for the riving knife question, I think I am slightly confused ( wouldn't be the first time lol) ... So with the knife in its lowered position just below the blade teeth, does it still rise and fall with the blade or is it locked down and thus you cut without a knife?



The riving knife is attached to the same mechanism as the blade. So as the blade lowers/bevels so does the riving knife. So as long as it is configured slightly lower than the blade (a one off operation), then you're all set.


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## PabloBigasso (17 Sep 2018)

Hi folks, first post. 

I've owned this saw for a few months now and found this thread really useful when making my buying decision and setting it up. I thought I'd share a few experiences of my own in case they are of further help.

Mine came with the blade almost bang on to the mitre slots and I've not needed really tight accuracy so far so I've not adjusted that yet but it's on my list.

The fence has some issues. I've not managed to tune it to be reliably parallel yet, need to fiddle some more to see if that's possible. If it's used to the right of the blade the mechanism where the locking lever closes is slightly proud of the rest of the fence on the left causing longer pieces to feed in at a slight angle. Haven't figured if there's a way to adjust this out so I either use the fence on the other side or set an additional MRC jig over the fence to bulk it out.

The riving knife was way out. I had to raise the blade all the way up, unmount the whole mechanism using the two Allen bolts then flatten down the alloy mounting bracket (the bit still in the table not on the knife mechanism) with a file and shim with a sliver of plastic sandwiched between the mechanism and the bracket lip closest to it. I also had to shim between the L-plate and the knife itself. You can then clamp straight battens around the blade and riving knife to finish setting it up.

The insert plate isn't very deep so making zero clearance inserts may be an issue. A few ways around this though.

The silver paint on the table wears quickly, there's quite a nice machined aluminium surface underneath but I guess the machining may cause some drag, we will see. I sanded out the paint in the mitre slots before making my own runners for MRC cross cut and mitre sleds because the supplied mitre gauge has too much slop for most work.

The supplied blade is OK, I've sharpened it up once when it started to slow down, will get a Freud blade before long.

Over all I've been fairly happy with it and managed to overcome most of its limitations and issues with some fiddling around. 

However, in retrospect I suspect the Charnwood W616 may have been worth the little bit extra. Had I been aware of that model at the time I made my purchase I may still have avoided it due to the fence not clamping front and back but knowing what I do now it looks a fair bit better on most fronts 

Hope this is useful.


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## achmav (17 Sep 2018)

Hi, first message for me too.
Also i am a happy owner of this table saw. It needs not a few initial adjustments, but now, with the addition of the Makita MLT100 soft start, i can say that it easily holds the comparison with more famous and expensive models.


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## leigh120585 (27 Jan 2019)

Hi everyone,

I've had this saw for a while and to be fare for an ameture it has been great. I have replaced the blade to a friend 60t blade which has made a massive difference to the quality of the cut. 
My only gripe in alignment, I can't seem to get square cuts. A always check the blade is 90 degree to the table. I think the blade is out of alignment with the slots. 

Would anyone recommend a tool to help me align the blade to the slots?

Also any tips with the fence as when I set the thickness of cut I seem to have the fence tighter at the end and it feels that the material is pinching.

Thanks Leigh


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## transatlantic (28 Jan 2019)

leigh120585":3b8tzs83 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I've had this saw for a while and to be fare for an ameture it has been great. I have replaced the blade to a friend 60t blade which has made a massive difference to the quality of the cut.
> My only gripe in alignment, I can't seem to get square cuts. A always check the blade is 90 degree to the table. I think the blade is out of alignment with the slots.
> ...



Few points 

- When checking the blade is 90 to the table, make sure you're referencing off the aluminium table, not the steel table insert.
- I haven't actually tried aligning the blade to the slots as mine seemed ok, but you build a jig like this (many variants) 





- As for the cut feeling tighter at the end, that could be a few things. First, is the fence aligned to the blade? (align it to the mitre slot, and then align the blade to the mitre slot), secondly, is the riving knife aligned to the blade? it could be tilting to one side.


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## Thornlv (18 Mar 2019)

achmav":1vgn0nd8 said:


> Hi, first message for me too.
> Also i am a happy owner of this table saw. It needs not a few initial adjustments, but now, with the addition of the Makita MLT100 soft start, i can say that it easily holds the comparison with more famous and expensive models.


Was this an easy upgrade to perform and where did you get it from.?


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## FatmanG (3 Jan 2020)

Evening all,
I have just bought a 2nd hand hs105 off ebay and i do not have any power at all. I think the motor has gone. I looked to see if the rap clarke saw i bought 1st had the same powered motor but the hs105 is 2000w and the clarke is 600w. I have contacted scheppach to see how much a replacement motor would be but as yet i have not heard anything. I was wondering if any of the genius' that use this forum could offer me some advice on what to do. Can the motor be repaired could i do it? any advice on where to get a new motor. A user of this forum once told me when i bought something off him that buying cheap tools is a false economy. Never a truer word spoken. I now have 2 table saws one doesn't work andf the other doesn't have a fence and i should never f bought in the 1st place but i was so keen to get woodworking I bought a shed load of complete pony. I really hope i can get this saw working but honestly guys i haven't the foggiest where to blinking start.
Glenn


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## Trevanion (3 Jan 2020)

Well Mr.Fatman, it's rare that a motor completely dies but there could be a few things wrong...

The first obvious one, is it plugged in? Now I kind of mean that as a joke but are you certain there is power getting to the unit? It wouldn't be the first time a cable has broken internally not causing power to get to where it needs to go. Secondly, if the cable from the socket to the machine is fine, could it be the start switch? I think on some Scheppach machines the failure of the start switch is actually a common fault. Thirdly, if the switch is fine, with the belts off the saw arbour and motor try turning the machine on, does the motor hum but not move/moves very slowly? If that's the case the motor capacitor has gone and it's a simple and cheap fix to replace.


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## FatmanG (3 Jan 2020)

Mr Trevanion, I thank you for your reply. I am very worse for ware ATM but I shall try all your suggestions in the morning. Funny but my wife also asked me if I checked the fuse lol it must be my rotund stature that makes her think I'm a bit daft lol. Seriously I shall check and report back. Once again muchus gratias senor.


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## transatlantic (3 Jan 2020)

I would try tbe suggestions above, but don't bother spending more money replacing the motor, its not worth it.

How much did you buy it for? And have you not complained to the seller?

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk


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## FatmanG (3 Jan 2020)

I got it cheap to be fair. No can't complain sold as untested. Is it not worth repairing? The table and fence seems decent quality, it won't get a lot of use so I don't need an expensive saw just one that cuts square. I am a hand tool person really but being disabled I get tired and sometimes I don't have the umph to use the handsaw hence why it won't get lots of use. My preference would be to repair it unless there's a strong argument not to
Fatman


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## Trevanion (4 Jan 2020)

Actually, now that you mention fuse that might actually be the problem. You say the motor is 2000w/2Kw which is _just_ about the maximum that can be run on a 13 amp supply in ideal conditions without blowing the fuse, if that is indeed the case you'll need to put it on a 16amp blue plug and socket to allow it to pull more amps on startup.

I've had to run a 1.5KW motor on a 16amp plug simply because it kept blowing fuses, but then I also have a machine that runs at 2.2KW on a 13 amp plug just fine! :?


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## transatlantic (4 Jan 2020)

Trevanion":1j370pt8 said:


> Actually, now that you mention fuse that might actually be the problem. You say the motor is 2000w/2Kw which is _just_ about the maximum that can be run on a 13 amp supply in ideal conditions without blowing the fuse, if that is indeed the case you'll need to put it on a 16amp blue plug and socket to allow it to pull more amps on startup.
> 
> I've had to run a 1.5KW motor on a 16amp plug simply because it kept blowing fuses, but then I also have a machine that runs at 2.2KW on a 13 amp plug just fine! :?


I think you're jumping the gun a bit here. I and many members have this saw without it blowing fuses. You should not need to change the plug to another higher rated than what it came with, ... if its pulling too much current that would suggest something else is wrong.

Your problem with the 1500w motor was probably because that motor has a very high startup current draw, and then drops down. Does it specify its startup current?



Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk


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## transatlantic (4 Jan 2020)

FatmanG":1xxnfyat said:


> I got it cheap to be fair. No can't complain sold as untested. Is it not worth repairing? The table and fence seems decent quality, it won't get a lot of use so I don't need an expensive saw just one that cuts square. I am a hand tool person really but being disabled I get tired and sometimes I don't have the umph to use the handsaw hence why it won't get lots of use. My preference would be to repair it unless there's a strong argument not to
> Fatman


Its an OK saw. I don't think its worth repairing unless its only going to be cheap components.

I certainly wouldn't replace the motor and I very much doubt they'll even sell you one as a spare part.

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk


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## Trevanion (4 Jan 2020)

transatlantic":2o1qa38c said:


> I think you're jumping the gun a bit here. I and many members have this saw without it blowing fuses. You should not need to change the plug to another higher rated than what it came with, ... if its pulling too much current that would suggest something else is wrong.
> 
> Your problem with the 1500w motor was probably because that motor has a very high startup current draw, and then drops down. Does it specify its startup current?



The only reason I mentioned it is that it's quite often people take plugs off 16a gear and put a 13a on because it will run OK on their supply, Scheppach PTs are a good example as they all came with a 16a plug but you always see them online with a 13a on.

You’re probably right about that 1.5Kw motor I was on about, I don’t remember what the startup current is off the top of my head but it may be greater than the 2.2Kw one.


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## transatlantic (4 Jan 2020)

Trevanion":2qp362no said:


> transatlantic":2qp362no said:
> 
> 
> > I think you're jumping the gun a bit here. I and many members have this saw without it blowing fuses. You should not need to change the plug to another higher rated than what it came with, ... if its pulling too much current that would suggest something else is wrong.
> ...



Ah - fair point about people changing to a normal 13A plug _from _a 16A one, but in this case, this saw is sold with a normal 13A plug


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## FatmanG (4 Jan 2020)

Well Mr Trevanion I changed the fuse checked the leads and it didn't work but I did hear a buzz noise faint so I knew it was getting power. I then went to the switch opened the case made sure everything looked ok it did except the whole underside was covered at least 3mm thick of dust all the electrics included so I got cleaning and guess what happened next? Yep it worked lol I owe you a beer mate at last I got a good deal.  I celebrated by planing 48 sides of rough sawn timber for my bench top. 
Cracking day
Fatman 
Glenn


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## Trevanion (4 Jan 2020)

Good to hear it 

To be honest, I didn't even think about dust ingress but it can play havoc with electrics. It's always best to work from the output of the power to the motor and tick off every possible fault, that way you know it can't be X or Y so it must be Z.


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## transatlantic (4 Jan 2020)

Not sure how dust could affect electrics.

Are you saying you vacuumed out some dust from the switch and it magically started working? That seems unlikely.

I wonder if there was a lose connection that you unintentionally nudged into place.

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk


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## FatmanG (4 Jan 2020)

Mate I swear on my life that's exactly what happened after I checked each wire previously it may of been a loose connection


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## skelph (4 Jan 2020)

transatlantic":3ud2us8a said:


> Not sure how dust could affect electrics.
> 
> Are you saying you vacuumed out some dust from the switch and it magically started working? That seems unlikely.



20+ years back our family business had a Cooksley Universal machine (great machine by the way) which was used a great deal and every couple of months we had to either vacuum or blow out the dust from the circular saw starter switch when the switch stopped working - that solved the problem, so we assumed that the dust was getting between the contacts in the switch. We couldn't work out how fine dust was getting in there even after changing the grommets where the cables came into the starter box and changing the seal around the box lid. In the end we gave up trying to stop the dust and stuck to opening up the box every Friday afternoon and cleaning out the accumulated dust.


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## FatmanG (12 Feb 2020)

Trevanion":2q8x894r said:


> Actually, now that you mention fuse that might actually be the problem. You say the motor is 2000w/2Kw which is _just_ about the maximum that can be run on a 13 amp supply in ideal conditions without blowing the fuse, if that is indeed the case you'll need to put it on a 16amp blue plug and socket to allow it to pull more amps on startup.
> 
> I've had to run a 1.5KW motor on a 16amp plug simply because it kept blowing fuses, but then I also have a machine that runs at 2.2KW on a 13 amp plug just fine! :?


I have not used the saw once from when I bought it until I tried Monday as I had some ash to rip for some clamps I wanted to make anyway I plug it in to test to make sure it still worked and it powered up great I thought so I raised the blade went to start and got nish kebab, nothing not a squeak. To cut a long story short one of the carbon brushes was about 1/4" long and its worked fine since except the riving knife was bent the insert plate was concaved and I only noticed these issues when I made my first table saw cut ever and it seemed like I was fighting to get the last bit cut and through when all of a sudden the wood nearest the fence shot at me like a bullet from a gun and the other piece was black. I am now taking in as much info as I can before I use it again as I don't want to loose any limbs. I absolutely s**t myself


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## Trevanion (12 Feb 2020)

FatmanG":gesfgovv said:


> I have not used the saw once from when I bought it until I tried Monday as I had some ash to rip for some clamps I wanted to make anyway I plug it in to test to make sure it still worked and it powered up great I thought so I raised the blade went to start and got nish kebab, nothing not a squeak. To cut a long story short one of the carbon brushes was about 1/4" long and its worked fine since except the riving knife was bent the insert plate was concaved and I only noticed these issues when I made my first table saw cut ever and it seemed like I was fighting to get the last bit cut and through when all of a sudden the wood nearest the fence shot at me like a bullet from a gun and the other piece was black. I am now taking in as much info as I can before I use it again as I don't want to loose any limbs. I absolutely s**t myself



That sounds like the table saw fence wasn't quite parallel to the blade and was causing the wood to pinch on the backside of the blade while cutting. It's not a machine to be treated lightly, it needs great respect and care otherwise you'll get caught out. You could do ALOT worse than pick up our very own Steve Maskery's Workshop Essentials DVD set (I think he does download too on request) on the table saw, I've not seen them but the people who have bought them recommend them highly and judging by Steve's posts here it won't be any of that American no riving knife or guard nonsense, it will be concisely about how to use your table saw in the best and safest manner.

Gosforth Handyman also has an excellent video on the subject, not to detract from Steve's excellent DVDs mind.

[youtube]eUx8oTIALmg[/youtube]

I'm surprised a bit that it was a brushed motor but I guess with the compact size of the machine it wouldn't really be anything else. Had I known that I wouldn't have suggested that it may be a supply issue since they're easy to run off a 13A plug with no issues.


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## FatmanG (13 Feb 2020)

Thanks for the advice and the video that's very similar to what happened to me as gosforth handyman. I'm getting the riving knife out today as its bent. I've got a PDF parts diagram the same as the one shown in this thread for a replacement if I can't straighten it. I'm seriously considering getting Steve's DVD if I can't find any good free content. My first job is a new Freud blade and make a crosscut sled and push sticks.
Glenn


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## Beachy (24 May 2020)

Hi. i'm new on here. i have just bought used Scheppach HS105 when i start it up, it gets noisier every now and then. thought it might be the bearings but t all seems solid enough. Has anyone got any ideas what it could be.if it is the motor bearings , where can i get some please.


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