# Old tenon/dovetail saw handle screw removal



## Nordkapp (14 Mar 2013)

I have two old Sheffield made backsaws (?1940s). 
The handles are attached with flat fronted brass screws into a split nut, which is very worn. How do you remove these other than drilling out please?
Thanks for anyone's suggestions


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## Jacob (14 Mar 2013)

Nordkapp":3h763lvd said:


> I have two old Sheffield made backsaws (?1940s).
> The handles are attached with flat fronted brass screws into a split nut, which is very worn. How do you remove these other than drilling out please?
> Thanks for anyone's suggestions


File a little notch into a large screwdriver so it'll engage with the slots in the nut but go over the end of the bolt


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## Cheshirechappie (14 Mar 2013)

Unless you absolutely have to remove them, don't! Most saw repairs (apart from blade straightening) can be done without disturbing this joint, so unless it's loose and needs tightening, leave well alone.

If you have a brace, try looking on Ebay for screwdriver bits - they come up quite frequently, and often with a 'double prong' bit specially for this job. You may have to slightly reshape it to fit your particular saw-nuts as they all seem to different, but make sure you get a good full-width fit or you'll chew up the nut even more than it already is. The brace bits respond well to a fine file, but use a fair bit of pressure and file slowly.

Alternatively, you could find an old, wide-bladed screwdriver and modify it as Jacob suggested. Again, make sure it's full-width.

If the sawnut slots are really badly chewed, find a small piece of hard steel (old screwdriver, perhaps?) and make a tiny chisel about the width of the existing slot with which to trim it up and maybe deepen it a bit. Clamp the handle down to the bench, go gently with the chisel and a small hammer, and the brass will cut easily - it's quite soft.

Just a thought about the age of the saws - split nuts rather went out of fashion around WW1 in favour of tubular nuts with full cross-slots - easier for a standard screwdriver to deal with - so they may be a bit older than 1940s.


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## AndyT (14 Mar 2013)

I agree with the good advice given but if you are set on removing them and need to make a broad, slim screwdriver with a notch - you can use a flatbit as a cheap and easily found source of suitable steel. Choose one of suitable width and grind away slowly. Some even have a central hole which helps make the notch. Glue the stem into a wooden handle.


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## pedder (14 Mar 2013)

Glue a hexal nut on it with loctite 270. Loctite can be removed with the heatgun.

Cheers
Pedder


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## TobyC (14 Mar 2013)

What Pedder said, but with pictures.

http://users.accesscomm.ca/galoot/splitnut/

Toby


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## bugbear (15 Mar 2013)

Nordkapp":18m4808q said:


> I have two old Sheffield made backsaws (?1940s).
> The handles are attached with flat fronted brass screws into a split nut, which is very worn. How do you remove these other than drilling out please?
> Thanks for anyone's suggestions



If you can post a picture of your whole saw, it would help. Split nuts were tending out of use by the 1920's, so your saws may be older than you think.

I'll second the comments on
a) leave them alone
b) use a split screwdriver if you insist on removing the handle.

(here's a picture. Why anyone would BUY such a thing escapes me!)

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodw ... nut-driver

c) you might also need/want to glue a nut on the entirely flat face opposite. These actually have square shanks beelow the head (like a coach bolt) but these can often spin in the hole.

Further, when tightnening nuts in old saws, I would strongly recommend clamping the saw tight, and just running the nuts up, rather than try to draw the saws tight WITH the nut. The nuts are made of soft brass, with (often) poorly made, shallow threads.

Here's Stephen Shepherd's info

http://www.fullchisel.com/blog/?p=74

BugBear


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## Nordkapp (15 Mar 2013)

Thanks to all. I was planning to remove the handle to clean the saw up, but following your advice I think I'll leave it alone!
Thanks also for the advice about the age of the saw. I'll post a picture later.


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## Mr_P (7 Oct 2014)

Great old thread and it's just solved my problem.

Was going to modify a screwdriver and then I found this thread so I've ordered some Loctite.







However I am curious as to what the proper pronged tool looks like.

Can anyone post a picture ?

Thanks,
Carl


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## Biliphuster (7 Oct 2014)

Filing a screw driver to shape is quite simple. If you want to buy one google "split nut driver". Having said that those slots look awfully chewed up, the nut and loctite may be a better option.


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## bugbear (7 Oct 2014)

Nordkapp":1h3d1ilv said:


> Thanks to all. I was planning to remove the handle to clean the saw up, but following your advice I think I'll leave it alone!
> Thanks also for the advice about the age of the saw. I'll post a picture later.



Those bolts look burred, almost riveted; the nuts won't come off past that, I don't think.

BugBear


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## Harbo (7 Oct 2014)

I think you are right BB - looks like they have been hammered on purpose?
So it's leave alone or drill out?

BB I did buy one of those when I visited Tools for Working Wood in Brooklyn a few years ago - as well as the saw handle makers rasp:






I have since misplaced it but made one from an old screwdriver as shown.

Rod


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## Benchwayze (7 Oct 2014)

Toby.....

Your Avatar is blinkin' 'orrible... :lol: :lol: :lol:


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