# wood suitable for garden furniture



## LarryS. (10 May 2008)

hi all,

planning to repair an existing garden bench (broken slats). My new planer / thicknesser and bandsaw turn up on monday so its an excuse just to use them.

Can you recommend which wood would be best to use and how (if at all) I should finish / treat it ?

In B&Q today I saw most of the furniture was made out of teak, so is this the best ? (I need to source it from yandles whatever it is)


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## OPJ (10 May 2008)

Hi Paul,

Don't think you're going to have much luck finding new Teak _anywhere_! Have you got any photo's of the existing furniture? Iroko is a popular choice for outdoor stuff. But the dust is something to watch out for... Then again, Teak would only go and destroy your new planer knives!  

Yandles would probably be a good place to look, yes, but don't forget good old Interesting Timbers! :wink:


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## LarryS. (10 May 2008)

the existing furniture is a simple garden bench (cast iron ends i think) with some wooden slats across between them. If teak is impossible to find and iroko is leathal what could I get hold of that won't kill me !


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## OPJ (10 May 2008)

Sapele is the other one that spings to my mind; a dark red-brown in colour, used as a common substitute for mahogany. Not too expensive and fairly easy to work. The grain can wonder of a bit on some lengths.

Another one that's commonly used by joiners idigbo, which I think you would find at Oscar Windebanks' - commonly referred to ask "poor man's Teak" though. Never worked with or come in to contact with that myself.

I'm guessing oak is too light for what you want...

As for finishing, people commonly use linseed oil (boiled, not raw) or good old Teak Oil (no Paul, it's not a stain!  ), which you can buy at B&Q or anywhere.


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## Jake (10 May 2008)

You do have to be sensitive to Iroko to have a problem with it - it's never bothered me in the slightest. It seems to be getting an exaggerated reputation around here of being a deadly poison to all and sundry.


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## LarryS. (10 May 2008)

thanks olly, i take it that oak wouldn't be strong enough ? (current slats are about 3/4 inch thick and 6 foot long, 2 1/2 inches wide)

sapele may be a winner, i've seen that in yandles and I also think I've seen the idigbo there too

failing all that I could try pine as a test run for the project and my p/t and bandsaw


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## OPJ (10 May 2008)

That's very true but I feel people should always be aware of the precautions. The fact is that you can use it once or twice, and you'll feel fine. But, some day, further down the line, that's when it will suddenly hit you! :? 

As with circular saws, you can never be too careful with Iroko! :wink:


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## LarryS. (10 May 2008)

Jake":3v575n67 said:


> You do have to be sensitive to Iroko to have a problem with it - it's never bothered me in the slightest. It seems to be getting an exaggerated reputation around here of being a deadly poison to all and sundry.



then perhaps i should give it a go (at least for this project)


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## PowerTool (10 May 2008)

Idigbo is quite light,and a bit "wooly" - quite commonly used for window frames,but not sure it would be suitable for outdoor furniture.

I refurbed a couple of benches about two years ago for my ex-wifes pub - used reclaimed timber from silicon ore containers from Brazil (so it was probably some sort of Brazilian hardwood,and it was free  ) and painted it with Ronseal woodstain,to match the rest of the beer garden furniture.

Before:-







After:-






Still look good,and get constant use - pity you don't live nearer,as I've got loads of timber left..  

Andrew


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## Jake (10 May 2008)

It's no different from all sorts of (especially) tropical hardwoods. I have no reaction to iroko and have used it, over the years, many many times and still nothing. 

I get a slight sniffle at whatever that rubbish is they make Brazilian WBP ply from. That's my worst ever allergenic experience.


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## OPJ (10 May 2008)

Another dark hardwood on the Yandles site is Padauk. It's quite reasonably priced although I don't know of its resistance properties against the elements.

I'm quite sure oak would be strong enough at those dimensions, but I thought you might have been after something darker, that's all?

It may even pay for you to clean up and take a damaged length down there with you, so you can get a good match for the grain as well.


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## motownmartin (10 May 2008)

Jake":yceku0q6 said:


> You do have to be sensitive to Iroko to have a problem with it - it's never bothered me in the slightest. It seems to be getting an exaggerated reputation around here of being a deadly poison to all and sundry.


Maybe some may have exaggerated and it nhasn't affected me but it has affected a friend of mine, he is at the moment feeling quite sore and trying to grow some new skin :lol: seriously though as Jake says it doesn't affect everybody.


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## LarryS. (10 May 2008)

thats exactly the type of bench I have to refurb, wood looks great, i just need to find something similar that i can source locally. sounds like iroko is the winner so far. My choices are probably limited to what yandles can supply :

http://www.yandles.co.uk/planks.html


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## LarryS. (10 May 2008)

OPJ":1f55e0xi said:


> Another dark hardwood on the Yandles site is Padauk. It's quite reasonably priced although I don't know of its resistance properties against the elements.
> 
> I'm quite sure oak would be strong enough at those dimensions, but I thought you might have been after something darker, that's all?
> 
> It may even pay for you to clean up and take a damaged length down there with you, so you can get a good match for the grain as well.



looks like i need to find a book that describes what wood is suitable for what. yet another area of woodworking that is more complicated when I get into the detail  

Oak may be ok but take your point on the colour, could be tempted to make new sides out of oak also (means I get to test the bandsaw) !


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## TheTiddles (10 May 2008)

The stuff in B&Q is very unlikely to be teak, there are a lot of woods that are dark, slightly oily and totally suitable for garden furniture, teak is just one of them, probably the nicest but it's extremely expensive. You can get it easily enough, try Bamptons in Southampton, they supply to yacht builders so it's stock for them. Very few makers are still using teak for garden furniture, you can normally tell from the cost of it, a chair should be setting you back about £400. I used to deliver the stuff and people would order a set of chairs and a table for £3000, nicer than injection-moulded PVC admittedly.

Iroko does not kill on contact, you may be allergic to it, and rosewood, furniture wax, adhesives, the plastic in your powertool grips, the list is long and tedious. Take precautions like you would with any dust, if you get a reaction, don't use it.

Matching one wood to another is never easy, even if it's the same type, some iroko is dark brown, almost black, very green, yellow etc... Are you sure decent quality pine wouldn't do?

Aidan


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## Rich (10 May 2008)

Norm uses cypress on occasions.

Rich.


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## motownmartin (10 May 2008)

Rich":2yv621ac said:


> Norm uses cypress on occasions.
> 
> Rich.


I think this is what park benches are made from, can't be sure though


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## LarryS. (10 May 2008)

TheTiddles":3m1pxetz said:


> The stuff in B&Q is very unlikely to be teak, there are a lot of woods that are dark, slightly oily and totally suitable for garden furniture, teak is just one of them, probably the nicest but it's extremely expensive. You can get it easily enough, try Bamptons in Southampton, they supply to yacht builders so it's stock for them. Very few makers are still using teak for garden furniture, you can normally tell from the cost of it, a chair should be setting you back about £400. I used to deliver the stuff and people would order a set of chairs and a table for £3000, nicer than injection-moulded PVC admittedly.
> 
> Iroko does not kill on contact, you may be allergic to it, and rosewood, furniture wax, adhesives, the plastic in your powertool grips, the list is long and tedious. Take precautions like you would with any dust, if you get a reaction, don't use it.
> 
> ...


this will be my first outdoor furniture project so am happy to use anything that will look good plus ensure I get to use my PT and bandsaw ! (yes I am that shallow)
if pine is fine then happy to use that, just wanted to use a hardwood to get a bit of experience of working with it


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## Benchwayze (11 May 2008)

I have a bench almost identical to the one Power Tool showed.
It is planked with Iroko. Every year I sanded it down and coated with Cuprinol.

Until other pressing matters took my eye of the ball. Inside 18 months it had started to split and now all the stales need replacing. Wish I lived near Darlington then! 

I have some Western Red Cedar that I will try. Might have to make the stales a little thicker, but it should do the job and it needs only linseed oil, now and again, if at all.

I could consider idigbo though, as I have been asked to make a table and benches for a friend's garden. Research needed then!  

Regards
John


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## wizer (11 May 2008)

It seems it's that time of year. I have just been thinking about suitable outdoor woods. I'm making my Adirondack chairs out of left over Yellow Balau decking. I'm not sure how it works out it terms of cost as I bought it nearly 4yrs ago. It's tough on tools but generally looks very nice when machined. 

Softwood shouldn't be totally discounted for outdoor use. I re-visited my old primary school today and there are some softwood planters that my Dad made for them over 18yrs ago. They are in fantastic condition, I was shocked they where still there. For your bench, you could use softwood. If you have to replace it in 8-10yrs, will you be bothered?


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## Benchwayze (11 May 2008)

Hi Wizer, 

Not me personally, but it's for someone else. I always try to explain the benefits of better timber at the time, but customers never really listen do they? All they hear is the price you ask. Even softwood isn't dirt cheap and I don't give my labour away! So sometimes the customer expects more.

If it was for me, then a decent softwood is acceptable. In fact, if in ten years time, I can still get outside to sit in the sun then I will be happy! 

 :lol: 

Regards
John


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## Digit (11 May 2008)

Spring! And old man's fancy turns lightly to thoughts of ---- garden furniture. 
Which brings me to my point, I've just acquired a pair of very nice cast bench ends myself. I want a single seat outside the workshop and I've a stack of suitably sized ash. 
Anyone any opinions on Ash? 

Roy.


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## Rich (11 May 2008)

Nice and springy and good enough for hammer shafts, go for it. A couple of coats of exterior varnish and I should think it will last for years, a good choice.

Rich.


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## Jake (11 May 2008)

It's non-durable, and if you've ever had any on a wood-pile, you'll know why! Depends how long you want it to last, how exposed it will be, and how much maintenance you can be bothered to do.


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## Digit (11 May 2008)

Strange that. As Jake says it's listed as non-durable, but my view was the same as Rich's (again) as the darn stuff is used to make canoes!

Roy.


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## Jake (11 May 2008)

I don't know what it's listed as. I do know it is kind of notorious for being one of the (much) less durable UK woods, and that it can rot almost completely in a year or two on a (non-covered) woodpile. As for canoes - do you mean those yank open things? If so, maybe their species are more durable?


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## Digit (11 May 2008)

I use the Wood Explorer Data base Jake and there they list under European Ash that that is one of its uses. Same in one of my books, but at the same time they say the same as you that it's far from durable.
Seems daft that people would build canoes out of a something that's supposed to be non-durable.
I think I'll have to take another look at my wood store.

Roy.


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## Rich (11 May 2008)

you could always make a coracle, :lol: 

Alright, I was leaving anyway, :roll: 

Rich.


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## Benchwayze (11 May 2008)

In which direction Rich? 

 

John


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## Shultzy (11 May 2008)

My house was built in '68 and they used ash pads in the walls for the windows to be secured to. There seems to be no deterioration of the pads, but I suppose they are not subjected to the full force of the weather.


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## dickm (12 May 2008)

Years ago, I had a Morris Traveller, which you may remember had an ash rear frame. It certainly began to rot after about 8 years, but I've seen well maintained ones with no rot at all after longer periods. And classic Morgans have their entire body mounted on ash frames. So properly treated, it might be OK for the bench?


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## jasonB (12 May 2008)

You could try sweet chestnut for a native hardwood, often used for fenching and weather boarding.

If you go the softwood route then Larch is good outside but will need a bit of sorting to avoid knotts in the slats which could weaken them

Jason


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## Pete Robinson (13 May 2008)

Anyone who mentioned Sapele as a wood for outdoor use, well sorry, but it is in fact not a durable wood and I would not personally use it out doors but here are some of the more common woods that are really good for out door use and extremely resilient to the elements that will last longer than most of us!!

European Boxwood, Sweet Chestnut, Idigbo, Iroko, Mahogany (American), American White Oak, European Oak, Rosewood, Teak, Utile, Black Walnut, Ceder, Cypress, Yew.

Plenty of choice here and most are stocked by my local timber yard.

Hope this helps


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## LarryS. (13 May 2008)

Pete Robinson":3sj1gh6g said:


> Anyone who mentioned Sapele as a wood for outdoor use, well sorry, but it is in fact not a durable wood and I would not personally use it out doors but here are some of the more common woods that are really good for out door use and extremely resilient to the elements that will last longer than most of us!!
> 
> European Boxwood, Sweet Chestnut, Idigbo, Iroko, Mahogany (American), American White Oak, European Oak, Rosewood, Teak, Utile, Black Walnut, Ceder, Cypress, Yew.
> 
> ...



thanksfor the list thats excellent, will print it off and take it with me to my local timber yard


paul


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## Benchwayze (13 May 2008)

LarryS":696564v0 said:


> Pete Robinson":696564v0 said:
> 
> 
> > Anyone who mentioned Sapele as a wood for outdoor use, well sorry, but it is in fact not a durable wood and I would not personally use it out doors but here are some of the more common woods that are really good for out door use and extremely resilient to the elements that will last longer than most of us!!
> ...



I find it strange that Sapele isn't classed as durable. I used some to make a wooden Scooter for my daughter years ago. That was left out in the yard, through all weathers. The only time it got broken was when an irate neighbour threw it down the grove, because it had been left with the handlebars lying on his lawn! (Gawd, he had a beautiful lawn; but he dug it up recently, as he can't mow it these days. ccasion5: He's still a grumpy old person!) To be honest, I probably would've complained too. 

Anyhow, Cascamite fixed the damage and the scooter lasted a few more years. 

I finished it with polyurethane varnish, but never re-painted it. Maybe the varnish helped, but my sources say Sapele is a durable timber even if it is more often seen as furniture or interior doors. So the jury will be out on that one then. :lol: 

John


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## jasonB (13 May 2008)

My books have sapele as moderatly durable which means it will last 10-15yrs in a "grave yard" test.

Jason


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## OPJ (13 May 2008)

One of the reasons I suggested sapele was because I previously worked for a company that made five-bar gates from this timber. They previously used iroko (before I started) but they may have changed over due to H&S...? Some people said it was because of the cost, but I'm pretty sure that 3" sapele is cheaper than iroko? (It is on the Yandles site, anyway.)

So, Paul, have you been down to give David Simmonds an ear-ache yet? :wink:


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## TheDudester (13 May 2008)

With regards to teak I have these bits from a teak gateleg garden table. The table was badly damaged, especially the outer pieces of the top. There are only six instead of 8 and some of them are damaged too.

I would like to make a table top for a frame that already exists and wondered if I could use the other pieces glued together to make the missing segments or whether I should try and find some teak to make them even if it is hard to find or expensive.







D


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## Pete Robinson (13 May 2008)

Ok, so just what is a durable wood??? well here goes...........
Any wood can be treated to ensure longlivity but some woods are naturally more resistive to the elements than others and so are classed as durable. ((graveyard test) An untreated sample of heartwood is placed into the ground for a number of years and monitored to see how long it lasts))
As I understand from these tests, but please don't quote me on this:

PINE: 2 YEARS
OAK: 20-25 YEARS
IROKO: 40-65 YEARS


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## NaomiA (18 Nov 2008)

I have had a teak garden furniture set for almost 6 years and it is still good. It has gone a silvery grey colour and we just wash it down with soap and water every spring. I have read up about teak on this and it is a really good wood for outdoor use as it has high oil content.


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## The_Stig (18 Nov 2008)

In the past I've supplied:

* Iroko
* Sapele
* Oak
* Purpleheart
* Balau

Planed Purpleheart looks really nice: Click Me!


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