# Inca bandsaw



## JohnBrown

I just got hold of an Inca 342.186(Euro 260) bandsaw from eBay, for the princely sum of £50.00. It's generally in pretty good condition, the tyres seem fine, but I need to get some new blades, as the one it came with is rusty and bent, but, having never owned a bandsaw before, I could use some tips as to what to check for and setting up.
Anyone own/used to own one of these?
I've found the Inca user group on Yahoo, but the information there is very sparse.
Any advice gratefully received.

John


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## 9fingers

Bent or not if the machine will run with that blade and track OK then that is not too much fundamentally wrong.

Check the wheel bearings for rumbles and shake - on most machines these are changeable with a few basic mechanics tools. There has bee a thread here recently about changing bearings.

Check the guides for wear - some use ball bearings other solid blocks either way these should be adjusted to support the blade with a fag paper clearance and not to touch the teeth.

Set these up once you have bought a new blade from Ian John email [email protected] or via his ebay shop. Ian sells great blades and give lots of free advice too - a great favourite on this forum and others.

hth

Bob


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## jimi43

Good score!

Can you post a link to the auction so I can see which one?

I simply love INCA stuff...you got a real bargain!

Jim


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## JohnBrown

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250646118893&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT


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## JohnBrown

BTW, there's another one ending very soon - French one rather than original Swiss though... I've only had this one 22 hours, and already I'm becoming a snob!


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## jimi43

Great bargain JB! These things are really rated now...I love my old INCA table saw...tilt table and all...







I stuck a new Freud blade on mine and it transformed it!

Get some blades from Ian at Tuffsaws - you will be amazed at how great they are.

You have a little gem there John...I am green (Startrite green!) with envy!

Let us know how it performs once you set it with new teeth!

Jim


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## woodbloke

I've had a French made Euro 260 for around 10 years now and it's never let me down. Provided the blade material is very thin (I use 14thou stock from Axminster) it will just about tension a 5/8" blade and rip 150mm...it's happier at around 100mm though for ripping.
This is the same saw as the late Jim Krenov used in his personal 'shop - Rob


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## Steve Maskery

My next-door-neighbour has a little Inca and it is a very nice - if rather tiny - machine. You should be able to get it to sing.

+1 for TuffSaws.

S


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## JohnBrown

@Jim:
I just found the thread detailing the purchase and restoration of your Inca table saw. Good job!
Would I be right in thinking that new bandsaws have electronic braking?


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## woodbloke

Steve Maskery":3l126e9g said:


> +1 for TuffSaws.
> 
> S


I think I'll give the TuffSaw blades a little try next time I order any - Rob


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## 9fingers

woodbloke":2pignqtj said:


> Steve Maskery":2pignqtj said:
> 
> 
> 
> +1 for TuffSaws.
> 
> S
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'll give the TuffSaw blades a little try next time I order any - Rob
Click to expand...


Rob, You are welcome to try Ian's blades on my bandsaw if you are passing my way. They are the best thing since sliced bread - also good on wood too!!

Bob


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## disco_monkey79

My Dad bought an Inca bandsaw new about 25years ago. Having been looked after, it's still going strong.


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## woodbloke

They're great machines if you can get hold of one...the frame on mine is completely cast aluminium, no fabricated steel anywhere. A bit like the original B&D Workmate - Rob


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## JohnBrown

Thanks to all for advice.
I see that Ian John at TuffSaws is away at the moment, but I will order a blade or two later.
The saw runs and tracks fine. It came with the mitre guide, rip fence(with micro-adjuster) and a depth stop(very rusty). Also a circle cutting jig!
The rail for the rip fence is not the original(at least I don't think so) so I've ordered some ali unequal angle to make a replacement. Bit tricky though, as I can't find any good pictures or diagrams of the rip fence rail! Most of the diagrams I have found are for the later French model.


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## daveswim

Wood Slicer blades are by far the best you can buy. Available at highland woodworking.


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## woodbloke

daveswim":69orr02q said:


> Wood Slicer blades are by far the best you can buy. Available at highland woodworking.


Long way for the OP to get a blade for the Inca...Tuff saws is a bit closer - Rob


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## Harbo

And a very old thread?

Rod


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## woodbloke

Harbo":oem1t641 said:


> And a very old thread?
> 
> Rod


Indeed Rod...can anyone explain why members keep on resurrecting these old threads? - Rob


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## 9fingers

Whilst we are talking bandsaw blades, I was watching some wood porn on youtube yesterday and saw a blade tooth type I had not seen before.
Around 3.12 in to this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpSFK_N1 ... ploademail there is a clear shot of the blade.

Anyone recognise it please?

Bob


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## condeesteso

Any chance of some pics of your Inca bandsaw - the ebay page has been removed. I've seen Jim's Inca table saw - it's very neat indeed. I quite fancy a smaller 2nd bandsaw for dedicated precision work (meat & fish blade of course).
Re wood slicer, I'm sure they are good but they are 2000 miles away from us UK lot! Most here rave about the Tuffsaw blades anyway.


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## woodbloke

condeesteso":2mx7rdhv said:


> Any chance of some pics of your Inca bandsaw - the ebay page has been removed.


Probably looks very much:







...like my one - Rob


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## jimi43

Gorgeous Rob...simply gorgeous!  

I quite like the three wheel ones too...apparently they have a tendency to break blades quicker because of the sharp angles but nevertheless...nice machines.

Thanks for that tool porn Rob...made my day!

Jim


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## 9fingers

Unless I am going a little mad.......

Surely a three wheeler has less sharp angles.

Blade stress is more associated with the diameter of the wheels than the number of them.

Bob


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## iajon69

9fingers":1jvl76el said:


> Whilst we are talking bandsaw blades, I was watching some wood porn on youtube yesterday and saw a blade tooth type I had not seen before.
> Around 3.12 in to this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpSFK_N1 ... ploademail there is a clear shot of the blade.
> 
> Anyone recognise it please?
> 
> Bob




Hi Bob 

It's a carbide tipped blade - they usually have a triple tipped tooth design and are great blades that give a great blade life. 
They need a lot of tension though - even more than M42 blades, so will only run on fairly big machines.....oh and they cost around £180 each......want me to get you a couple?  

Ian


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## Steve Maskery

No Bob
In practice, three wheelers had smaller wheels (typically 6") and therefore tighter turns. The third wheel was a way of increasing the throat of a small saw.
There is a very good reason why they disappeared from the market... !

S


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## woodbloke

jimi43":1ekyrcwo said:


> Gorgeous Rob...simply gorgeous!
> 
> I quite like the three wheel ones too...apparently they have a tendency to break blades quicker because of the sharp angles but nevertheless...nice machines.
> 
> Thanks for that tool porn Rob...made my day!
> 
> Jim


The back on the saw which you can see in the pic is one piece of cast aluminium...no fabricated steel anywhere. I've had that one for well over ten years now and it's never let me down or ever been inacurate. Great little saw, and the same one (well, not the same one, but an identical one) that the late JK had in his personal 'shop in California. Robert Ingham has one too, but I think his is the slightly bigger one - Rob


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## 9fingers

Steve Maskery":11cxxrq5 said:


> No Bob
> In practice, three wheelers had smaller wheels (typically 6") and therefore tighter turns. The third wheel was a way of increasing the throat of a small saw.
> There is a very good reason why they disappeared from the market... !
> 
> S



So you agree with me then Steve?
For a given wheel size, three wheelers are kinder to blades than two wheelers
However if a manufacturer, chooses the reduce wheels size, be it two or three wheels, the blades become more stressed.

My 3 x 12" startrite seems to be very kind to blades and gives an 18" throat with 12" wheels.

Bob


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## 9fingers

iajon69":3bqpyc86 said:


> 9fingers":3bqpyc86 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Whilst we are talking bandsaw blades, I was watching some wood porn on youtube yesterday and saw a blade tooth type I had not seen before.
> Around 3.12 in to this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpSFK_N1 ... ploademail there is a clear shot of the blade.
> 
> Anyone recognise it please?
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Bob
> 
> It's a carbide tipped blade - they usually have a triple tipped tooth design and are great blades that give a great blade life.
> They need a lot of tension though - even more than M42 blades, so will only run on fairly big machines.....oh and they cost around £180 each......want me to get you a couple?
> 
> Ian
Click to expand...



Kind offer Ian - I'll possibly decline for now though!

Bob


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## Steve Maskery

Yes, Bob, I do. But a 3 wheeler with 12" wheels is huge by other 3-wheelers standard. Most were considerably smaller hobby machines. And you have to admit that your wheels are smaller than a 2-wheeler with the same capacity.
Sounds like you have the best of both worlds.
S


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## condeesteso

That Inca looks ideal as a second small saw for me. Good size, but easily moveable on a wheely base (old office filing cabs are perfect!) Not a fan of 3 wheelers (except for the old Morgan, with the V-twin up-front).
On the lookout then. If anyone has one for sale please get in touch.


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## Krysstel

Excuse me for borrowing this thread.
I've just bought this Inca bandsaw on our (Norwegian) equivalent of Ebay.
It's maked 342.188.34, year 1988. Does anyone know if there is any difference between this saw and the Euro 260 ?
The guides are solid blocks rather than rollers and these seem to have almost no wear - maybe because they were all adjusted about 5mm from the blade :shock: 
As far as I can see the other bearings have no play at all and the tyres appear fine. Generally the saw seems to be in excellent condition despite being over 20 years old.
I've found what seems to be a parts supplier here http://www.doebeli.ch/v1.x/index.php
and a copy of the manual http://www.toshen.com/images/inca340manual.pdf 
Anything else I should check or be warey of ? Any advise greatly appreciated.

Mark


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## Steve Maskery

They are very nice little machines. Small capacity, of course, but very well made (if a little back-to-front compared to most).
Can't help you on your detailed questions, though, sorry.
S


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## jimi43

Wonderful machine and beautiful condition Mark...you are very lucky to have found this!

More pictures of the inside and all over generally would be much appreciated.

There are few pictures of these lovely machines and most are quite old...the more the Net has the better!

Also...get a Tuffsaw blade...the postage to Norway shouldn't be a lot and they are worth it...trust me on that one!

Jim


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## woodbloke

Looks to be identical in every respect to my Euro 260. One thing to note if it is the same machine but re-badged. The lower wheel is held onto the motor shaft with a spline, secured by a small grub screw. After a bit of heavy use (say in sawing 150mm veneers, which the saw will achieve, though with a bit of effort) the wheel will tend to shift backwards (as the grub screw becomes slightly looser) and it will foul on the aluminium casing. The only way to bring the wheel forwards again is to use a large crow bar :shock: (I kid you not) to gently lever the wheel along the shaft to bring it away from the casing, then tighten up the grub screw again - Rob


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## Krysstel

More pictures, as requested.
I'll be ordering a couple of Tuffsaw blades on Monday. 
I want to try and see if it's possible to resaw at least up to about 120-130mm. Anyone have any idea what maximim blade width the saw can cope with ?

The guy I bought the saw from had a complete compliment of Incas. As well as the bandsaw he also hade a beautiful little cast iron planen/thicknesser as well as the little table saw with adjustable table. I drooled over the PT but he wasn't interested in selling :x 

Mark





Why is the switch on the rear, away from the operator ? Is that normal ?










Tyre on the top wheel has no visible wear.





Brush on the bottom wheel looks like new.





Top bearing blocks need a clean up and adjustment.





Same story with the bottom bearings.


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## jimi43

Glorious pictures Mark!

There will be some INCA enthusiasts in the USA (and here!) drooling over those I'm sure.

It really is in superb condition...the tyres look almost new! He has looked after that beauty that's for sure!

Once you get the Tuffsaw blades watch it sing!

And you would do well to get the Bandsaw DVDs from Steve also...they are worth their weight in gold mate...

Thanks again for posting those pictures...I need to get one of these things!

Jim


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## dickm

jimi43":2kgswypi said:


> Glorious pictures Mark!
> 
> There will be some INCA enthusiasts in the USA (and here!) drooling over those I'm sure.


Minor bits of information - at one stage, the Inca tilt-table sawbench and planer-thicknesser were marketed as a single unit, badged Startrite-Inca. 
The Inca machines were beautifully made; Bruce Pollard in Bletchley/Milton Keynes was their UK agent in the (?)early 80s, but the market scuppered him and he went under. There was a clearance sale, but it was only bulk lots of spares. Wonder who bought them? Have never seen anyone advertising Inca spares subsequently.


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## Shrubby

Axminster were the last people I remember selling them. Inca-injecta are die casters so the brand can appear on all sorts of things(my 20yr old snowboard bindings had the inca logo cast into them)
Matt


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## condeesteso

Looks brilliant, I'm sure they were very well designed and engineered, and a smallish bandsaw is a very handy thing. No idea at all why the switch would be as far from the operator as they could get it... ?? Couple of ideas (if it was mine.... ooooh!):
- I would try lignum guides, make your own, and have them in contact as sacrificial zero clearance guides. Being self-lubricating they last well apparently. Worked on the blocks for the running rigging on Nelson's ships... they'll do for me.
- I would definitely get a 'meat & fish' blade - thin kerf and very precise. That would be my perfect smaller bandsaw, for the finer work like tenon shoulders, veneer cutting lesser depths etc.
Very nice saw indeed, jealous! (oh yes, and I'd probably move the on-off switch).


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## Krysstel

condeesteso":u4xnrzvf said:


> - I would try lignum guides, make your own, and have them in contact as sacrificial zero clearance guides. Being self-lubricating they last well apparently.


Lignum guides ? Where can I get old of them from ?

Mark


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## Harbo

Old bowling balls are a good source for Lignum - but watch out for the more modern plastic ones?

Rod


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## Krysstel

Our friend Google led me to a Yahoo group for Inca machines and an old post there has led me to this place in the US http://www.spaceageceramicguideblocks.com/. Apparantly they can (at least they could a year ago) supply ceramic guide blocks and thrust bearings as direct replacements for the original Inca blocks. They're supposed to last forever without wear :shock: I've fired off an e-mail inquiry and we'll see what happens.
Here's a couple of pictures that prove such blocks and guides exist :wink: 

Mark


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## sometimewoodworker

Krysstel":3rjpbzzq said:


> More pictures, as requested.
> I'll be ordering a couple of Tuffsaw blades on Monday.
> I want to try and see if it's possible to resaw at least up to about 120-130mm. Anyone have any idea what maximim blade width the saw can cope with ?


 1"


Krysstel":3rjpbzzq said:


> Why is the switch on the rear, away from the operator ? Is that normal ?


Yes It's standard as you can see here.





Mine is an earlier model to yours 342.186.01 and it has an aluminium table a different blade guard and no dust port


Krysstel":3rjpbzzq said:


> Top bearing blocks need a clean up and adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same story with the bottom bearings.


It looks as if the adjustment screws have been changed from the original grub screws.


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## sometimewoodworker

Krysstel":3uf76ox9 said:


> Our friend Google led me to a Yahoo group for Inca machines and an old post there has led me to this place in the US http://www.spaceageceramicguideblocks.com/. Apparantly they can (at least they could a year ago) supply ceramic guide blocks and thrust bearings as direct replacements for the original Inca blocks. They're supposed to last forever without wear :shock: I've fired off an e-mail inquiry and we'll see what happens.
> Here's a couple of pictures that prove such blocks and guides exist :wink:
> 
> Mark


Please let me know if you get a positive answer I can use a set of thrust bearings.


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## woodbloke

My Euro 260 which is a later reincarnation of the same machine will take a 5/8" blade...I'd advise to get the thinnest that you can, a 'meat and fish' would be ideal but Axminster do a 'special' (by tel order only) with a 14thou stock blade. Tuffsaws also now do very thin blades as well but I haven't used them yet. With a thin, *new* 3tpi blade the machine will go through 150mm oak without too much bother - Rob


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## condeesteso

Very good to get to see inside this machine, very impressive. I saw Jim's table saw with tilting table and that is very neat. The engineering inside this looks really good. I'd like to find one and I suspect hotting the guides up could be reasonably straightforward. As a trial do get some lignum guides off Jim, then we can all see how they perform - I know david Charlesworth uses them on a big Wadkin and reckons they are excellent.


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## Krysstel

Jerome - 
Really ? 1" blade ? I thought I'd be pushing it if I tried a 3/4" :shock: 
I'll post back if I hear anything from them regarding ceramic blocks & guides.

Woodbloke -
I'm waiting to hear from Tuffsaw regarding replacement blades. 
I got 4-5 blades with the saw but all look pretty old and I don't plan even trying them ! I'm looking at getting 3 new blades including a 3 tpi for resawing. We'll see what Ian at Tuffsaw recommends.
Thanks for confirming that the Euro260 is just a newer version of the 340. I beleive the 340 was Swiss made. Was the Euro260 perhaps French made ? Some relation to Kity perhaps ? - just my speculation. 

Douglas -
Sorry, bit of an uknown here. Who's Jim ?  Jim "Woodbloke" ? 

Mark


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## condeesteso

Hi Mark - sorry, just contact Jim (a.k.a. jimi43 here) and tell him I sent you :lol: for a pair of upper guides in Lignum... then he'll do you a pair for free to try out. Note the upper guides are the important ones as the lower wheel is the pulling one, so below the cut tends to be fine. Leading the blade into the cut is critical I find. Very nice saw, if only I could find one.


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## woodbloke

Krysstel":2lcxabek said:


> Was the Euro260 perhaps French made ? Some relation to Kity perhaps ? - just my speculation.
> 
> Mark


Mine does say 'Inca' on it but the full name of the machine is the Euro 260 and it was made in France...no relation to Kity though as far as I'm aware - Rob


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## sometimewoodworker

Krysstel":syjhyrdr said:


> Jerome -
> Really ? 1" blade ? I thought I'd be pushing it if I tried a 3/4" :shock:
> I'll post back if I hear anything from them regarding ceramic blocks & guides.
> Mark



That was what I was told when I bought the saw & I think it's in the instruction book too,but the book is in Thailand if I still have it. However the biggest blade I usually use is a 3/4" and most of the time 1/2". Getting enough tension for a normal 1" blade seems to put the tensioner at its limit so I don't use it often. 

For me the original guides work well enough so I've never bothered to change them. The only problem I've had is the top thrust bearing has lost its dust cover last year  ,not bad for a 35 year old tool, so I either need a ceramic set or have to find a new bearing. 

I do have a very fine blade set and the sanding accessory. Though I don't remember using either :roll: I guess I should see if they still work. 

I'm sure you will have fun. If you have any other questions let me know


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## John Brown

I bought a pack of 4 or 8(can't remember right now) bearings from Clas Ohlsen for under a tenner. They are sold for in-line skates. I drilled a hole in the end of a 4 by 4 fence post offcut and drifted out the pins from the bearings, then pressed the replacements on with the vise. Inca, in France, wanted an arm and a leg for replacement bearings, as I recall, and I am a big cheap skate. (See what I did there?).

John


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## Krysstel

Jerome :
I got hold of a copy of the manual here http://www.toshen.com/images/inca340manual.pdf 
(bit closer than Thailand perhaps :wink: ) and it says min 3mm - max 18mm blade width.
Have been in touch with Ian at Tuffsaw and in his very comprehensive email reply (excellent service by the way) he recommends for resawing a 5/8" blade for green wood and/or a 1/2" 3tpi for seasoned. For general purpose use he recommends a 1/2" 6tpi.
The only accessory I got with the saw was the rip fence so I don't even have a mitre gauge, let alone the sanding accessory ! Am looking into the mitre gauge options although I'm not convinced I really need one.
My thust bearings look, to my totally untrained eye, OK, but if I end up getting the cermic blocks from the US I'll almost certainly order the thrust bearings as well just so I've secured them. As of today I've heard nothing back from Spaceageceramics and I'm not holding my breath.

John :
Yes, I read somewhere else (can't remember where) that you used Clas Ohlson bearings. CO is all over Norway so could be a very interesting option for me. Could you post a link to where in their catalogue you found them ? (the catalogue on their Norwegian site is identical to the UK one). http://www.clasohlson.co.uk/Product/StartPageProducts.aspx

Before I start using the saw I'm planning to strip it down to nothing, give it a thorough cleanup and rebuild it with new blade(s) and, hopefully, bearings etc. I also need to build some kind of wheeled cabinet to stand it on. A lot to do and with Christmas round the corner I doubt I'll get any further with it until after the new year.

Mark


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## jimi43

From the INCA woodworking Yahoo group today:




> Here's an excerpt from the first issue of Fine Woodworking:
> 
> The Inca tools are made by Injecta, a 55 year old
> company with a thousand employees, specializing mostly in
> precision aluminum die castings. The woodworking tools
> represent about 25% of its business. They got into the
> business some 35 years ago when a customer ordered molds
> for a saw and then could not pay for them.



Jim


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## JohnBrown

I can't see the bearings in the current Clas Ohlsen catalogue, and I'm in America over Christmas. I'll have a look when I get home, and if I can find them I might drop a couple in a Jiffy bag for you. Alternatively, I'm sure that eBay will have some, if I can find the size/part number.

John


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## moerman

I have bought a Flott 260 two month ago. It is an Inca 260 with a Flott label. It works OK but for resawingit wanders to much. I have a tuff saws 5/8" 3 tpi m42 blade. Also when I put maximum tension on this blade it wanders towards the fence. I took the guidepost from the saw for inspection and noticed two problems:
- the assembly which holds the guide blocks can move slightly sideways. There is no way of adjusting to minimize this play.
- The guidepost is fastened by turning a big screw against it. But the tension of the screw twists the guide post sideways which causes the saw to wander. Reason is that the guide is pressed against a metal plate which is secured at one side only. The force of tightening the screw presses this plate out of alignement.

Are there any hints how to improve these problems? If needed I can post some pictures to clarify my description.

Wout Moerman


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## Krysstel

John - Thanks for the thought regarding the bearings but please bear in mind my location before dropping anything in a jiffy-bag. :wink: 

Wout - Pictures always tell a better story and since I have just ordered the same resawing blade as you I would be very interested in looking more closely at the problems you mention.

Mark


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## sometimewoodworker

moerman":gq6x9ske said:


> I have bought a Flott 260 two month ago. It is an Inca 260 with a Flott label. It works OK but for resawingit wanders to much. I have a tuff saws 5/8" 3 tpi m42 blade. Also when I put maximum tension on this blade it wanders towards the fence. I took the guidepost from the saw for inspection and noticed two problems:
> - the assembly which holds the guide blocks can move slightly sideways. There is no way of adjusting to minimize this play.
> - The guidepost is fastened by turning a big screw against it. But the tension of the screw twists the guide post sideways which causes the saw to wander. Reason is that the guide is pressed against a metal plate which is secured at one side only. The force of tightening the screw presses this plate out of alignement.
> 
> Are there any hints how to improve these problems? If needed I can post some pictures to clarify my description.
> 
> Wout Moerman


The pictures would help. Tracking is done while the blade is tensioned and running. The tracking adjustment is behind and below the tensioning adjustment screw. It has a locking knob you need to slack off first. With mine I can get the blade to track anywhere on the tire. The upper guide blocks do move with the upper guard but once tightened are steady. I have a set of pics I'll put up on my website so you can see how it should look when new(30years after :lol: ). I do look after my tools 

*Edit* here is the link
http://meekings.selfip.com/nui/Groups-of-photos/Wood_work_etc/Pages/Inca_Bandsaw.html 
it will probably come down (or at least have many fewer pics in a few weeks time as my server space is not infinite :roll:


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## moerman

Hi guys, all the best for 2012!

I still have to take the pictures but these days I am rather busy with social tasks. I don't think the problem can be tackled by adjusting the tracking. I've adjusted the tracking so the blade just occasionally touches the bearing. The teeth protrude the wheels slightly. But since the saw has flat tires I don't think this adjustment influences the tracking.

Wout


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## Krysstel

A short update.
Stripped everything down at the weekend and am now busy with rebuilding after cleaning 25 years og resin and crud from all the moving parts.
The steel guard closest in the picture was pretty chipped and rusty så I've sanded it down and given it a coat of green Hammerite. Not the original colour, but I had a tin in the cupboard :wink: 
One of the thrust bearings is badly scraped and partly ceased so I'm looking for replacements, maybe from the company in France who claim to stock parts. I'll report back if I get anywhere with them.
The original steel guide blocks have seen better days but will hopefully be soon replaced by jimi43 supplied lignum blocks. For the moment I've just cleaned the originals up and will run the saw with them so I have something to compare the new ones with.
I heard nothing back from http://www.spaceageceramicguideblocks.com/ so have given them up  
One minor problem I have is with the table adjustment. The whole mechanism is made from cast alumiunium and in places is corroded and pitted, probably (at a guess) because the table had never, or seldom been adjusted. I managed to polish out most of the pitting but it doesn't slide very smoothly. Is there anything I can use to lubricate aluminium against aluminium ?
Otherwise everything is in remarkably good condition.  
Hope to get the saw running by this weekend.

Mark


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## Steve Maskery

Nice!
I'm no engineer, but I do know that ali against ali is notoriously "sticky". Steel on ali would be better, I believe, but am happy to demur to, well, just about anybody!
S


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## 9fingers

Very few machines use custom bearings and so just working from the basic dimensions of bore, OD and width you should be able to get them almost anywhere. If you have trouble converting the dimensions to standard bearing numbers, just post me the sizes and I'll convert them for you.

Bob


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## Krysstel

The bearings are mounted offset on spindles. I'm no bandsaw expert, but this is maybe normal. How do I go about removing the bearing from the spindle ?

Mark


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## 9fingers

Quite normal to be offset. Press of with suitable tube or bearing puller. Being offset should not make a difference

Bob


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## sometimewoodworker

9fingers":9ao1rm06 said:


> Quite normal to be offset. Press of with suitable tube or bearing puller. Being offset should not make a difference
> 
> Bob


You will probably damage the bearing, as you have to press on the outer race. I'm a few thousand miles from mine so I can't take photos. But I'm fairly sure that you can't get at all the inner race from the back due to the offset. You should almost certainly replace th circlips as well.


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## sometimewoodworker

moerman":3uvwfem8 said:


> Hi guys, all the best for 2012!
> 
> I still have to take the pictures but these days I am rather busy with social tasks. I don't think the problem can be tackled by adjusting the tracking. I've adjusted the tracking so the blade just occasionally touches the bearing. The teeth protrude the wheels slightly. But since the saw has flat tires I don't think this adjustment influences the tracking.
> 
> Wout


With a good blade you can get it to track anywhere on the wheel. If the blade hasn't been welded perfectly or has been bent. Then it won't reliably track anywhere. DAMHIKT :roll:


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Krysstel":2nf7t4yg said:


> The steel guard closest in the picture was pretty chipped and rusty så I've sanded it down and given it a coat of green Hammerite. Not the original colour, but I had a tin in the cupboard :wink:
> One of the thrust bearings is badly scraped and partly ceased so I'm looking for replacements, maybe from the company in France who claim to stock parts. I'll report back if I get anywhere with them.
> The original steel guide blocks have seen better days but will hopefully be soon replaced by jimi43 supplied lignum blocks. For the moment I've just cleaned the originals up and will run the saw with them so I have something to compare the new ones with.
> I heard nothing back from http://www.spaceageceramicguideblocks.com/ so have given them up
> One minor problem I have is with the table adjustment. The whole mechanism is made from cast alumiunium and in places is corroded and pitted, probably (at a guess) because the table had never, or seldom been adjusted. I managed to polish out most of the pitting but it doesn't slide very smoothly. Is there anything I can use to lubricate aluminium against aluminium ?
> Otherwise everything is in remarkably good condition.
> Hope to get the saw running by this weekend.
> 
> Mark


Green Hammerite was the original colour of mine so you may have just reverted back.  The guide block faces can be smoothed in the same way that you would sharpen a plane, all you need to do is make sure you maintain the original angle, if the sides have been mangled by the holding screws just flatten them in the same way. The guide blocks should be long enough to regrind the faces many times *(lower guides)* and they are reversable. 

The table never slid smoothly. Paste wax almost every where will help. I can probably count the number of times I have tilted my table on the fingers of one hand.  I should probably check mine and disassemble my table (I never have). 

The thrust bearing that is badly scraped and partly ceased will be the top and if you cant get it off then just swap it with the bottom. That one will be in near mint condition. BTW if you do get it off and get a replacement could you give me the detail of the bearing? I should do mine too.

It isn't clear from your photo the condition of the upper guide bar plate, the one you tighten it against. This should be about 1/4" steel and flat. You can see it in the 3rd photo on my website *here*. If it's not flat then flatten it. & if it's not flat this is probably due to the fact that the original design was for a thin, light aluminium blade guard (on the table in No.10 No.11 No.12) and yours is a later version and steel. 

BTW I see you have an original Elu router table. Do you have the complete router accessory set that it's part of? With the clamps it makes a nice horizontal table.


----------



## andpartington

i have a inca fantastic band saw

to change the bearing remove the shaft with the bearing on it (small gubscrew)

get a 2x2 and drill a hole in it slightly smaller than the outer race of the bearing but big enough so the shoulder on the offset shaft fits through 
or use the jaws on a metalworking vice opened so the bearing sit on top of them not clamped up 

get a bolt or a drift and tap the shaft through it wont take much to get it moving

on the bearing there will be a coad this gives you the size of the bearings they are on ebay sold as bearings for roller scates (if you cant find the coad pm me and i will look at mine) I THINK ITS A 608ZZ but dont quote me on that 

to refit put the new bearing on a chunk of scrap timber and tap the shaft in wont take a lot of force just keep it lined up after the first tap it will go in dead easy and line itself up 

its an easy job will take 5-10 mins max 

any probs or if u wont to know anything more let us know 

andy


----------



## sometimewoodworker

andpartington":u1afqi7a said:


> i have a inca fantastic band saw
> andy


Thanks for the bearing info. 
How is your table adjust?


----------



## andpartington

not bad its not the easiest thing i did move mine a bit fair bit for some jobs a while ago wd40 has always worked for me on mine but its never been or will be a super smooth action 

the best bit about the whole band saw is the nuts that hold the front cover on i love how you can spin them on and off with one finger  

andy


----------



## Krysstel

First of all thanks a lot to everyone for all your comments and info which are a great help =D> 

Jerome.
Thanks for the tip about flatening the guide blocks however I'm counting on replacing them with new (lignum) ASAP. 
The original paintwork does look like hammerite but is a lighter shade of green than I've used on the guide bar plate.
Not reallly that worried about the stiff table adjustment as I doubt the table will ever be adjusted from flat but it was good to get confirmed that it's a normal problem and not because something was bent or out of line on mine.
I'll check the condition of the upper guide bar plate (steel on my saw) before I reinstall it but how critical is the flatness, and why ?
Can't remember which thrust bearing was which but you're probably right that the damaged one is from the top. I imagine the scrapes have been made by the blade running over it and the bearing not rotating since it was almost ceased up. The other bearing is indeed near mint condition but I'm going to do my best to replace them both.

Andy.
Thanks for the info regarding bearing removal. I'll try your method of tapping them out over the jaws of my metalworking vice.

Two new questions.
The circular plate the blade runs through on the table (probably has a name but I can't think of it now). Mine is badly chewed up. Is it just a matter of making a new one from ply or MDF or would I be better off trying to obtain a replacement from France ?
The plastic dust extraction port is broken where the screw goes in from the side and as a result been chewed up by the blade. Before I go to the lengths of either repairing or replacing is the dust extraction effective enough to make it worth my while bothering about it ?

Mark


----------



## Krysstel

sometimewoodworker":3dlp7qy2 said:


> BTW I see you have an original Elu router table. Do you have the complete router accessory set that it's part of? With the clamps it makes a nice horizontal table.



There's a story behind why that Elu router table is there which some may find interesting but since it's nothing to do with Inca bandsaws I'll start another thread :wink: 
I'll edit with a link in a while...........
Edit : https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/burst-water-main-t57198.html

I think I have the complete accessory set but which clamps do you mean ?

Mark


----------



## Steve Maskery

> The circular plate the blade runs through on the table (probably has a name but I can't think of it now). Mine is badly chewed up. Is it just a matter of making a new one from ply or MDF or would I be better off trying to obtain a replacement from France ?



That part is called the Throat Plate and it does get chewed up, especially when cutting curves. Most of us make a batch at a time and simply replace them as needed.
S


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Krysstel":5mbilkc3 said:


> sometimewoodworker":5mbilkc3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> BTW I see you have an original Elu router table. Do you have the complete router accessory set that it's part of? With the clamps it makes a nice horizontal table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a story behind why that Elu router table is there which some may find interesting but since it's nothing to do with Inca bandsaws I'll start another thread :wink:
> I'll edit with a link in a while...........
> Edit : http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/burst-water-main-t57198.html
> 
> I think I have the complete accessory set but which clamps do you mean ?
> 
> Mark
Click to expand...

 the ones on the box

very unsafe way with the wood though :roll:


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Krysstel":jd6w9tw8 said:


> I'll check the condition of the upper guide bar plate (steel on my saw) before I reinstall it but how critical is the flatness, and why ?
> Mark


The plate I'm talking about is also steel on my saw, it's held on by 2 socket cap screws and you can see it behind the top wheel *here*.

It may not have been you that was saying that the top guides had some slop in them when tightened, but if it was then this is where the problem would manifest.


----------



## Krysstel

sometimewoodworker":2brm2075 said:


> Krysstel":2brm2075 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll check the condition of the upper guide bar plate (steel on my saw) before I reinstall it but how critical is the flatness, and why ?
> Mark
> 
> 
> 
> The plate I'm talking about is also steel on my saw, it's held on by 2 socket cap screws and you can see it behind the top wheel *here*.
> 
> It may not have been you that was saying that the top guides had some slop in them when tightened, but if it was then this is where the problem would manifest.
Click to expand...



OK, now I'm with you. I thought you meant the cover plate I've repainted with hammerite. #-o I'll check the plate you mean for flatness.

Edit - didn't see your picture at first.
No, as far as I remember I don't have the clamps but I would think something similar must be quite easy to get hold of.

Mark


----------



## jimi43

Hi Mark....you have a PM

Jim


----------



## moerman

Nice to see your bandsaw without it's clothes on... Here are some of mine. The first time I post pics here, so let's see how it goes.

Here is the top of the cover, showing the Flott logo


----------



## moerman

Proof that is is an Inca can be found on all cast aluminium parts, here is one on the upper wheel:


----------



## moerman

Here is one of my worries, the metal plate against which the sliding post is clamped is held in place by two screws on one side only, but it is able to rock a bit. This is transfered to the post which therefore leads to mistracking.


----------



## moerman

The second problem is the upper guide assembly which cannot be secured sufficiently. Result is that the guides can rock sideways by about 1 mm. The highlighted pin in the picture should keep everything aligned, but is seems to be to small in diameter to prevent this motion.

Any proven ideas to impove this? I am thinking of drilling and tapping a hole in the assembly and inserting a screw so I can tighten it, but other ideas are very welcome. 

BTW, I haven't checked yet but I think the lower guides suffer from the same problem.

Thanks in advance,

Wout Moerman


----------



## Krysstel

Wout

A bit difficult to see from your pictures (good though they are) but the plate that clamps the sliding post appears on your machine to be smaller than on mine and Jerome's. This may be the reason for your rocking problem. If you look at one of the pictures I posted earlier you'll see my plate is held on with 3 screws, although the centre one is missing in the picture.

I'll have to check whether I have a similar problem with the upper guide block assembley and post back later today.

Mark


----------



## moerman

I looked again at your pictures and found that third hole in the plate. But is there a tapped hole in the chassis in that spot? I think I will place a wedge between the chassis and the plate to keep it from rocking. 

To cure the movement in the guides I added some 0.2 mm aluminium in the hole of the adjuster and in the hole for the pin. Now it feels much more solid.

Wout


----------



## Krysstel

moerman":34fu47ns said:


> I looked again at your pictures and found that third hole in the plate. But is there a tapped hole in the chassis in that spot? I think I will place a wedge between the chassis and the plate to keep it from rocking.
> 
> To cure the movement in the guides I added some 0.2 mm aluminium in the hole of the adjuster and in the hole for the pin. Now it feels much more solid.
> 
> Wout



Yes there is a tapped third hole in the chassis. I can only assume someone lost the third bolt sometime coz it wasn't there when I got the saw.

Mark


----------



## sometimewoodworker

moerman":3hlpx6sc said:


> I looked again at your pictures and found that third hole in the plate. But is there a tapped hole in the chassis in that spot? I think I will place a wedge between the chassis and the plate to keep it from rocking.
> 
> To cure the movement in the guides I added some 0.2 mm aluminium in the hole of the adjuster and in the hole for the pin. Now it feels much more solid.
> 
> Wout


If you look at my photos you will see that there are indeed 3 socket cap screws. I'm not sure if I have ever removed them


----------



## Krysstel

andpartington":14pgf5so said:


> i have a inca fantastic band saw
> 
> to change the bearing remove the shaft with the bearing on it (small gubscrew)
> 
> get a 2x2 and drill a hole in it slightly smaller than the outer race of the bearing but big enough so the shoulder on the offset shaft fits through
> or use the jaws on a metalworking vice opened so the bearing sit on top of them not clamped up
> 
> get a bolt or a drift and tap the shaft through it wont take much to get it moving
> 
> on the bearing there will be a coad this gives you the size of the bearings they are on ebay sold as bearings for roller scates (if you cant find the coad pm me and i will look at mine) I THINK ITS A 608ZZ but dont quote me on that
> 
> to refit put the new bearing on a chunk of scrap timber and tap the shaft in wont take a lot of force just keep it lined up after the first tap it will go in dead easy and line itself up
> 
> its an easy job will take 5-10 mins max
> 
> any probs or if u wont to know anything more let us know
> 
> andy



Used Andy's method to get the thrust bearings off their shafts. Dead easy job. Took 15 seconds.
Have tried to find a code on them and on one there appears to be 608 stamped, but it's pretty unclear so I measured the bearings. 
Inside diameter = 8mm
Outside diameter = 22m
Thickness = 7mm

Can anyone point me in the direction of a supplier ?


----------



## 9fingers

I'd suggest a 608-2RS (or rr) this will have two rubber seals (Z= metal seal) and offer greater dust resistance.

You can get them all over ebay or from any bearing factors

I tend to use Arc Euro trading http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... -10mm-Bore.

HTH

Bob


----------



## Krysstel

9fingers":ttjg4co4 said:


> I'd suggest a 608-2RS (or rr) this will have two rubber seals (Z= metal seal) and offer greater dust resistance.
> 
> You can get them all over ebay or from any bearing factors
> 
> I tend to use Arc Euro trading http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... -10mm-Bore.
> 
> HTH
> 
> Bob



Brilliant. 2-off 608-2RS ordered. Thanks a lot Bob.  

BTW. You don't have any idea where I can get hold of the eye bolts I've mentioned in this thread ?
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/morten-moretens-pt-t57207.html

Thanks a lot

Mark


----------



## 9fingers

Eye bolts with 6mm threads are usually folded not solid and the eye is more like 10mm for a 6mm thread.
I read that you are looking to make them bigger. You will get solid M10 eye bolts ok but again with a bigger eye
a BS 4278 table 1 eye bolt in M10 will have a nominal 15mm eye and 18mm long thread. The hole may be rough cast but you could machine out to 16-17mm and bush it to suit your rods.

Look for collared eye bolts lifting eyes or dynamo eyes and BS 4278

Someone will doubtless prove me wrong but I doubt that you will find stock eyes that are the same size as the thread, especially in the smaller sizes.

Drilling and tapping cast iron is dead easy. What is less easy is picking up the exact cenbtre of a ready tapped hole and opening it out concentrically to a larger size. Make some steel jigs with holes in the right places and use those as guides. drilling into virgin metal is a lot easier.

I had a pal once who asked if I could drill some large holes in a steel plate for him. He turned up with the job and said, I've started all the holes for you until I did not have any bigger drills!!!! The job was a nightmare as I had no datum centres to work from.

hth

Bob


----------



## Krysstel

9fingers":qzl3il21 said:


> Eye bolts with 6mm threads are usually folded not solid and the eye is more like 10mm for a 6mm thread.
> I read that you are looking to make them bigger. You will get solid M10 eye bolts ok but again with a bigger eye
> a BS 4278 table 1 eye bolt in M10 will have a nominal 15mm eye and 18mm long thread. The hole may be rough cast but you could machine out to 16-17mm and bush it to suit your rods.
> 
> Look for collared eye bolts lifting eyes or dynamo eyes and BS 4278
> 
> Someone will doubtless prove me wrong but I doubt that you will find stock eyes that are the same size as the thread, especially in the smaller sizes.
> 
> Drilling and tapping cast iron is dead easy. What is less easy is picking up the exact cenbtre of a ready tapped hole and opening it out concentrically to a larger size. Make some steel jigs with holes in the right places and use those as guides. drilling into virgin metal is a lot easier.
> 
> I had a pal once who asked if I could drill some large holes in a steel plate for him. He turned up with the job and said, I've started all the holes for you until I did not have any bigger drills!!!! The job was a nightmare as I had no datum centres to work from.
> 
> hth
> 
> Bob



Thanks for all your info Bob. I will look further into the options. In the meantime I've e-mailed Moretens in Sweden to see what they say. Perhaps there's a later mod to the machine that was better than the mechanism on mine. 
I've also found these on Ebay and am considering their use instead. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_n...ngs&_osacat=12576&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313 
Good to hear that drilling and tapping cast iron isn't a problem. Perhaps the solution is to only drill new holes and not bother trying to open up the two old ones. I've checked and I can get the table on edge under my pillardrill so don't expect much problem with drilling new holes.

Mark


----------



## 9fingers

Those rod end bearings or sometimes called Rose Bearings, will possibly be better and get you nearer to a bore similar to the stud size.
They are also self aligning and so tolerant of some misalignment. 

Bob


----------



## Krysstel

9fingers":odhgdei6 said:


> Those rod end bearings or sometimes called Rose Bearings, will possibly be better and get you nearer to a bore similar to the stud size.
> They are also self aligning and so tolerant of some misalignment.
> 
> Bob



I like the idea of them. Seems like a better solution than the original eyebolts. I'll look into it in a bit more depth and take some exact measurements from the machine before I decide what to go for.
I'll post any further reports on progress in the Moretens thread morten-moretens-pt-t57207.html

Mark


----------



## 9fingers

Maybe a passing moderator could move the last few items across??

Bob


----------



## John Brown

Hi,

Seems the bearing problem has been solved via eBay. I've been away since before Christmas, but I dropped into Clas Ohlsen on Saturday and, sadly, they have ceased stocking some of the more useful things(from my perspective) in favour of more popular stuff(and who can blame them). The bearings would seem to be one of the lines they have dropped.


----------



## Krysstel

John Brown":1qng4nmq said:


> Hi,
> 
> Seems the bearing problem has been solved via eBay. I've been away since before Christmas, but I dropped into Clas Ohlsen on Saturday and, sadly, they have ceased stocking some of the more useful things(from my perspective) in favour of more popular stuff(and who can blame them). The bearings would seem to be one of the lines they have dropped.



Yes, both new thrust bearings from Ebay and lignum guide blocks from Jim are on their way and I've already received 3 new blades from Tuff Ian. Will soon have the saw up and running in, hopefully, better than new condition  

As I mentioned earlier Clas Ohlson are all over Norway and were previously the number one source for all kind of goodies for "people like us". However, during the last couple of years they've gone really down hill and got rid of nearly all such things. The shop's now full of mostly computer and kitchen equipment :shock: Havn't bought anything there for a long time.

Mark


----------



## moerman

Succes! The modifications do exactly what I wished. The saw tracks well, the cut is much smoother and it requires less force to get the wood through. I have taken pictures of the mods which I will post sppn.

Wout


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Krysstel":1wqmh1wk said:


> Yes, both new thrust bearings from Ebay and lignum guide blocks from Jim are on their way and I've already received 3 new blades from Tuff Ian. Will soon have the saw up and running in, hopefully, better than new condition
> Mark


Which blades did you get?


----------



## Krysstel

1/4" - SuperTuff Carbon 1778mm - 2094mm•Blade Length - 73” / 1854mm
•Bandsaw Model No. (optional) - Inca 340
•TPI - 14

1/2" - SuperTuff Premium 1778mm - 2094mm•Blade Length - 73” / 1854mm
•Bandsaw Model No. (optional) - Inca 340
•TPI - 6

5/8" - SuperTuff Fastcut 1854mm - 2297mm•Blade Length - 73” / 1854mm
•Bandsaw Model No. (optional) - Inca 340
•TPI - Fastcut

Havn't tried any of them yet. Still waiting for the bearings (+ working on the Morten PT :wink: )

Mark


----------



## Krysstel

The new thrust bearings finally arrived today. Here they are with the original guide blocks (which I filed flat) and a set of 4 new lignum blocks which Jim (kimi43) has kindly made for me to try. For the moment I'll run the saw with the original steel blocks so I can compare with the lignum ones.






Pressed the thrusts on their spindles in the vise with a large washer as spacer. Took seconds.





After installing the bearings, original guides and a Tuffsaw 1/2" blade I set about adjusting everything according to Steve Maskery's WE4 however I ran into a snag with the tracking adjustment that maybe someone can help me with. Only the upper wheel can be adjusted and the following 2 pictures show the best I managed. I feel the blade is far too far in on the upper wheel and too far out on the bottom. But what can I do about it, if anything ? I'm tempted to just move the lower wheel further out on the spindle, lock it off with the grub screw and put a packing washer behind the spindle bolt. Is that a feasible solution or just plain daft ? 











I also checked the table was square with the blade and discovered it has a dip in the middle. Anyone else have the same problem ?






Ended the evening with a trial run. Everything worked fine, despite the tracking issue, and the Tuff blade zapped through this piece of oak like a hot knife. =D> 






If I can sort out the tracking I'll change to the lignum blocks and post back a comparison review as soon as poss.

Mark


----------



## Steve Maskery

Mark
How is the bottom wheel attached? Have you checked for co-planarity? It must be held in somehow and I'm surprised it's not adjustable at all.
S


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Krysstel":hbic5mke said:


> After installing the bearings, original guides and a Tuffsaw 1/2" blade I set about adjusting everything according to Steve Maskery's WE4 however I ran into a snag with the tracking adjustment that maybe someone can help me with. Only the upper wheel can be adjusted and the following 2 pictures show the best I managed. I feel the blade is far too far in on the upper wheel and too far out on the bottom. But what can I do about it, if anything ? I'm tempted to just move the lower wheel further out on the spindle, lock it off with the grub screw and put a packing washer behind the spindle bolt. Is that a feasible solution or just plain daft ?
> 
> Mark


The wheels need to be co- planer and it looks as if yours aren't. So moving the bottom wheel out is the answer. 

The blade should track in the same place on both wheels. 

The saw will happily work as it is but you can do better. BTW a better test would be to try to resaw that oak. Any saw should cut like that.


----------



## John Brown

Bear in mind that the Inca wheels and tyres are not crowned and, as far as I understand it, the blades are not supposed to ride in the centre of the wheel. The teeth of the blade should actually be free of the tyre. I know this sounds strange, but it is what I have read and mine works fine like that. My Inca's wheels are not co-planar, BTW, and I don't believe it would be possible to adjust them to be so.
There is a Yahoo special interest group for Inca tools - if you're not aware of it already I will try to find a link.


----------



## jimi43

CLICK HERE TO GO TO INCA WOODWORKING GROUP ON YAHOO

Jim


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown":23y5ni07 said:


> Bear in mind that the Inca wheels and tyres are not crowned and, as far as I understand it, the blades are not supposed to ride in the centre of the wheel. The teeth of the blade should actually be free of the tyre.


That was also how I have been running mine, and that is in the setup in the manual too. 


> I know this sounds strange, but it is what I have read and mine works fine like that.


 There is one exception to that. That is if you have the fretsaw adapter and blade then that blade should run in the centre of the tyre. 



> My Inca's wheels are not co-planar, BTW, and I don't believe it would be possible to adjust them to be so.



I've never checked mine. However I believe they must be, as I can set the tracking with exactly the same amount of the blade projecting from the edge of the tyre. I don't think this could happen if they weren't coplanar. 


> There is a Yahoo special interest group for Inca tools - if you're not aware of it already I will try to find a link.


I think that has already been posted. 
The 2 things I would like for mine are a set of tyres (they must need changeling sometime) And the extension to the mitre gage. I've still got the flip stop but the extension didn't make it to Thailand


----------



## John Brown

I have a set of bright orange urethane tyres that I bought on ebay(from the US - I had them sent to a relation in the US and collected them when I was over there). I haven't installed them yet, as the originals don't seem too bad. Once again, if you like I will try and find a link - unless Jim posts it first!


----------



## John Brown

John Brown":18ejtvtd said:


> I have a set of bright orange urethane tyres that I bought on ebay(from the US - I had them sent to a relation in the US and collected them when I was over there). I haven't installed them yet, as the originals don't seem too bad. Once again, if you like I will try and find a link - unless Jim posts it first!



In fact if you search on eBay for "Bandsaw tires" you'll get there straight away.


----------



## Krysstel

Thanks for the response everyone.
I should have mentioned in my last post that the wheels are indeed not coplanar. This I had of cource checked as part of the WE4 setup :wink: 

Steve.
The bottom spindle has a key which corresponds with a key slot on the wheel. The wheel is a tight push fit on the spindle/key and is secured with a grub screw. On the end of the spindle is a bolt with large washer that stops the wheel sliping off the spindle if the grub screw loosens.
My solution is to move the lower wheel slightly out until I get both wheels coplanar, lock it off with the grub screw and then pack out behind the securing bolt/washer so that tightening the bolt doesn't simply push the wheel back on the spindle to where it was before.

Seems logical to me that the blade should be tracked so the teeth are just off the edge of the wheels as at the moment I feel the thrust bearings are adjusted a long way back as a result of how far back on the wheels I've got the blade positioned. Particularly the top bearing is almost as far in as it can go and there's certainly not enough adjustment left for me to run anything bigger than a 1/2" blade - and that can't be right.

John.
My view is that somehow I have to get the wheels coplanar if the blade is to track with the teeth off both wheels. As it is now, if I adjust the upper wheel so the teeth track off the wheel then on the lower wheel the blade is only just hanging on with half the blade off the wheel. At one stage during the adjustment I had the blade in what is probably the optimum postion on the lower wheel but then the upper wheel was tracking in the middle - that's how far out of coplanar the wheels are :shock: 

Jim.
I've already joined the Yahoo group but havn't actually found much info there that helped much, although I could of course post some questions #-o 
Regarding the lignum blocks. I've decided to save putting them in until I've got the tracking right. Am a bit afraid of scoring them with the blade teeth :wink: 
----------------------------------------
One new issue. 
The dust extraction port hangs from the lower thrust bearing and is secured to the chassis by a screw. I'm thinking of chopping off the part that goes under the thrust bearing as I feel it interferes with the bearing. Has anyone else done a similar mod, or done any other mods to improve the dust extraction ?
I also meantioned the dip in the table yesterday. Should I be worried about it ?


Mark


----------



## John Brown

If I were to move the lower wheel out at all, I doubt that I could get the top thrust bearing out far enough to work with a 1/4 inch blade. Unless I took a hacksaw to the aluminium blade guard. That, and the fact that I don't think my saw has been messed with, lead me to believe that the wheels do not necessarily need to be co-planar. And the fact that I'm fairly certain the top wheel adjustment actually tilts the wheel, rather than moving it in and out whilst maintaining its vertical orientation.

Re. Dust extraction: My Inca predates such things. I bought a vacuum cleaner nozzle, cut a piece out of the plastic casing and made my own.
The other mod I made (inspired by a post on the Yahoo site) was to add a small polycarbonate window such that I can see the tension gauge without removing the cover, although now I'm doubting whether it's really imperative to de-tension the blade.

I'm considering trying to make some table inserts out of 2mm acrylic that I have sitting around, as mine is a bit chewed up. Ideally, I'd like to get to know someone with a 3D printer, who could run a few up....

Anyway, I'll be interested to hear how you get on.


----------



## Krysstel

The top wheel adjustment does tilt the wheel. If you tilt the top of the wheel back/in then the blade will track further in on the top wheel and further out on the bottom. And the opposite if you tilt the top wheel out. However, whatever you do with the tilting it is impossible to get the blade to track at the same place on both wheels if they are not in line with each other - coplanar. Correct me if I'm wrong here Steve :wink: 

You're probaly right about using a 1/4" blade if the goal is to have it tracking with the teeth off the wheel/tyre. I would imagine that with such a narrow blade one would have to track it so the teeth were on the tyre, if for no other reason than that with only a small portion of the blade then on the tyre there would be a risk of the blade slipping off the wheel. 

Whereabouts did you insert your dust extraction nozzel in the casing ? Maybe I can improve the extraction by having 2 outlets.

Mark


----------



## John Brown

> Whereabouts did you insert your dust extraction nozzel in the casing ? Maybe I can improve the extraction by having 2 outlets.



Pretty much the same place that the later saw has the nozzle, as far as I can having only seen pictures.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Krysstel":2mo6cmgf said:


> The top wheel adjustment does tilt the wheel. If you tilt the top of the wheel back/in then the blade will track further in on the top wheel and further out on the bottom. And the opposite if you tilt the top wheel out.


 You have got that part wrong. When a saw is correctly setup the tracking adjust (which does move the top wheels vertical orientation) will cause the blade to change its position in the same direction on both wheels

Track out at the top blade moves to the front of both wheels, in at the top blade moves to the rear of both wheels



> However, whatever you do with the tilting it is impossible to get the blade to track at the same place on both wheels if they are not in line with each other - coplanar. Correct me if I'm wrong here Steve :wink:


 that is correct



> You're probaly right about using a 1/4" blade if the goal is to have it tracking with the teeth off the wheel/tyre. I would imagine that with such a narrow blade one would have to track it so the teeth were on the tyre, if for no other reason than that with only a small portion of the blade then on the tyre there would be a risk of the blade slipping off the wheel.


 A 1/4" blade will track with the teeth just off the tyre no problem


----------



## Krysstel

Seems to me the most important word here is "coplanar". If the wheels are not coplanar then tracking the blade correctly will never be successful. 
I'll look at the problem again this evening and accurately check the coplanarity. One thing I have thought of is that I've had both wheels and the tracking mechanism off and just maybe I've remounted the top wheel too far out. If that's not where the problem lies then I'll move the bottom wheel out as necessary to acheive coplanarity.
Whatever, as Jerome mentioned earlier, the saw works happily as it is but it would be nice to get it better, ie; perfect :wink: 

Mark


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown":3jmd8d6n said:


> If I were to move the lower wheel out at all, I doubt that I could get the top thrust bearing out far enough to work with a 1/4 inch blade. Unless I took a hacksaw to the aluminium blade guard.


As the saw is designed for the teeth to track just off both tires, the size of blade makes no difference to the location of the aluminium blade guard. all blades (except the fretsaw blade) should track with the teeth the same distance from the blade guard, just off the tires.

In Mark's pics


Krysstel":3jmd8d6n said:


> Mark



You can see that the blade is not tracking correctly. It should both be just off the tires. The bottom is better than the top but you can see that the bottom thrust bearing has almost no travel left. The blade needs to track about 3mm further out



> That, and the fact that I don't think my saw has been messed with, lead me to believe that the wheels do not necessarily need to be co-planar.


 If the blades can track in the same place on both wheels then your saw is setup correctly. 

If the blade will not track in the same place then it's not set correctly. And the probable problem would be the wheels not being coplanar.



> And the fact that I'm fairly certain the top wheel adjustment actually tilts the wheel, rather than moving it in and out whilst maintaining its vertical orientation.


 That is correct.

.[/quote]


----------



## Steve Maskery

Can I put a different perspective? And yes, I do know that I am in a minority, and yes, you can call me arrogant, you won't be the first, but I really do think that manufacturers' recommendations for blade position are simply wrong. And I believe I can justify my stance.

First let me state a caveat. The Inca, IIRC, has a direct drive motor which is flange mounted. No pulleys. That does make it more difficult to track the bottom wheel, I'll grant you. You are reliant on the manufacturers doing the job properly for you. I had forgotten that. But as it is a very well-made machine, let us assume that they have done it properly.

Now then, will someone please explain to me why it is OK to have the blade in the middle if it is 1/16" wide but not if it is 6mm wide? I'm a bear of very little brain, but that seems to me to be totally nuts. It's either OK or it isn't.

Furthermore (and I do realise this is more important on crowned wheels than flat ones) how on earth can you have the blade cutting straight ahead if it is on the front of a (particularly crowned) wheel. It can't and it doesn't. So if it is cutting off at 1 o'clock you have to twist the rip fence to accommodate it. That means that your mitre track is useless.

Forget all notion of tracking the blade at the front, get it where is is cutting true north, wherever on the tyre that is, keep you rip fence parallel to your mitre track and let blade drift be a distant memory.

I've done it this way for years now, have taught others to do it this way and no-one has yet told me that they are unhappy with the resultant performance.

You could, of course, be the first 

There, I've been and gone and said it.

S


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Krysstel":3bjsdjgo said:


> I also meantioned the dip in the table yesterday. Should I be worried about it ?
> Mark


Sorry I can't check mine till next month


----------



## John Brown

> As the saw is designed for the teeth to track just off both tires, the size of blade makes no difference to the location of the aluminium blade guard. all blades (except the fretsaw blade) should track with the teeth the same distance from the blade guard, just off the tires.


You misunderstand me. The aluminium blade guard only just allows the top thrust bearing to reach the back of a 1/4 inch blade.
I've just re-read my post, and I don't think I could have made that clearer...


----------



## John Brown

While I hesitate, as a total novice, to disagree with Steve(whose WE DVDs I do have), the Inca wheels/tyres are not crowned, so I can't understand how tracking the blade can affect the cutting direction.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Steve Maskery":5diw30ix said:


> Now then, will someone please explain to me why it is OK to have the blade in the middle if it is 1/16" wide but not if it is 6mm wide? I'm a bear of very little brain, but that seems to me to be totally nuts. It's either OK or it isn't.


 I think that the reason for the fretsaw blade having a different tracking location is that it uses totally different guides


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown":1fb5s31k said:


> As the saw is designed for the teeth to track just off both tires, the size of blade makes no difference to the location of the aluminium blade guard. all blades (except the fretsaw blade) should track with the teeth the same distance from the blade guard, just off the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> You misunderstand me. The aluminium blade guard only just allows the top thrust bearing to reach the back of a 1/4 inch blade.
> I've just re-read my post, and I don't think I could have made that clearer...
Click to expand...

I understand now. And I can't answer that point as my saw is 3,000 miles away so I can't check at the moment.

However do your blades track in the same place on both wheels or are they like mark shows except in reverse?

If they track in the same place on both wheels I cant respond until I check mine. 

If they don't track in the same place I suggest that your saw is not correctly setup.


----------



## Krysstel

Steve Maskery":27snkerb said:


> Now then, will someone please explain to me why it is OK to have the blade in the middle if it is 1/16" wide but not if it is 6mm wide? I'm a bear of very little brain, but that seems to me to be totally nuts. It's either OK or it isn't.
> 
> Furthermore (and I do realise this is more important on crowned wheels than flat ones) how on earth can you have the blade cutting straight ahead if it is on the front of a (particularly crowned) wheel. It can't and it doesn't. So if it is cutting off at 1 o'clock you have to twist the rip fence to accommodate it. That means that your mitre track is useless.
> S



Logic tells me Steve is on the right track here.
Although I never raised the question as to why tracking off the tyre was important I assumed it had to do with the teeth possibly damaging the tyre. I could not think of any other reason why it should be recommended and so long as tyre damage is not an issue then I believe Steve's approach is correct.

Whether my particular Inca is one of the few not set up correctly by the manufacturer wil have to wait until I can confirm if I have reinstalled the top wheel incorrecly or not. But, since the two retaining plates went back without any problem, I strongly doubt the wheel is incorrectly mounted, which leads me back to moving the bottom wheel out to acheive coplanarity - which I know I don't have now.

Mark


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Steve Maskery":22eisrw2 said:


> Can I put a different perspective? And yes, I do know that I am in a minority, and yes, you can call me arrogant, you won't be the first, but I really do think that manufacturers' recommendations for blade position are simply wrong. And I believe I can justify my stance.
> 
> First let me state a caveat. The Inca, IIRC, has a direct drive motor which is flange mounted. No pulleys. That does make it more difficult to track the bottom wheel, I'll grant you. You are reliant on the manufacturers doing the job properly for you. I had forgotten that. But as it is a very well-made machine, let us assume that they have done it properly.
> 
> Now then, will someone please explain to me why it is OK to have the blade in the middle if it is 1/16" wide but not if it is 6mm wide? I'm a bear of very little brain, but that seems to me to be totally nuts. It's either OK or it isn't.
> 
> Furthermore (and I do realise this is more important on crowned wheels than flat ones) how on earth can you have the blade cutting straight ahead if it is on the front of a (particularly crowned) wheel. It can't and it doesn't. So if it is cutting off at 1 o'clock you have to twist the rip fence to accommodate it. That means that your mitre track is useless.
> 
> Forget all notion of tracking the blade at the front, get it where is is cutting true north, wherever on the tyre that is, keep you rip fence parallel to your mitre track and let blade drift be a distant memory.
> 
> I've done it this way for years now, have taught others to do it this way and no-one has yet told me that they are unhappy with the resultant performance.
> 
> You could, of course, be the first
> 
> There, I've been and gone and said it.
> 
> S



Steve you seem to have missed a point or 2. One is that many (some/most) blades will not cut "true north" even if the blade is tracking perfectly. That is why Bandsaw fences can be adjusted to compensate. Also you can take that into account with the miter guide.

Another point is that with a crowned wheel you may be able to adjust for a blades cutting off true ( I don't know if this is even possible) by having the blade slightly toed in or out but with a flat (INCA) tyre it doesn't work.

A third point is that with crowned tyres the teeth are probably not touching the tyre but if you track the INCA in the centre they will, and will (over time) damage its surface.


----------



## Krysstel

sometimewoodworker":1guai0p3 said:


> Also you can take that into account with the miter guide.



How ? :? 



sometimewoodworker":1guai0p3 said:


> A third point is that with crowned tyres the teeth are probably not touching the tyre but if you track the INCA they will and will (over time) damage its surface.



I see that and my one worry with Steve's method.


Mark


----------



## Steve Maskery

sometimewoodworker":nbygpin0 said:


> That is why Bandsaw fences can be adjusted to compensate. Also you can take that into account with the miter guide.


How? Please explain further, I'm a bear etc, etc.



sometimewoodworker":nbygpin0 said:


> A third point is that with crowned tyres the teeth are probably not touching the tyre but if you track the INCA they will and will (over time) damage its surface.


OK, now this is, I understand, the reason that manufacturers suggest we do it. And it is true.
But it doesn't happen overnight, and if the blade is very narrow, it _has_ to be on the rubber. As I say, either it's OK or it isn't.
Yes, I agree that the tyres will get worn over time, but that is part of the wear of the machine. I'd rather have to renew my tyres every decade and have my saw cutting nicely all the time, than have them last my lifetime but be messing about with drift.


----------



## Krysstel

Steve Maskery":21rq05ib said:


> How? Please explain further, I'm a bear etc, etc.


Yes, how is that possible ?



Steve Maskery":21rq05ib said:


> But it doesn't happen overnight, and if the blade is very narrow, it _has_ to be on the rubber. As I say, either it's OK or it isn't.
> Yes, I agree that the tyres will get worn over time, but that is part of the wear of the machine. I'd rather have to renew my tyres every decade and have my saw cutting nicely all the time, than have them last my lifetime but be messing about with drift.


I definately agree with Steve's point of view here. 
Just looked at the first pictures of my saw with the as-bought blade in and the previous (clueless) owner had the blade tracked in the middle of the tyre. I cannot believe he'd done this intentionally and am 99% sure the blade has been tracked that way since 1988. But the tyres are still pristine.

Mark


----------



## Krysstel

Been very busy with other things this week so havn't managed to sort out the tracking issue yet. However I spent 15 minutes on it yesterday and have come up against a new snag.
When I took the casing off I found the circlip from the top wheel spindle and a couple of shims laying at the bottom of the chassis :shock: It seems to me that the circlip is too loose on the spindle and there should maybe be another shim added behind it. This has probably been caused by wear and the shims have become thinner over time. The circlip is also a bit loose and needs to be replaced. Anyway, whatever the cause the circlip had fallen off and the only thing holding the wheel on was the blade tension - which I'd forgotten to slacken :roll: 
Can anyone suggest a solution ? I've heard of cutting such shims from drinks cans for instance, but don't know if it really works.
I'm also a bit concerned about the top wheel only being secured by a circlip whilst the bottom wheel has a securing bolt on the end of the spindle. Maybe it's possible to drill and tap the top spindle and add a bolt and washer in addition to the circlip.

Have checked the coplanarity again and confirmed an approximate 5mm difference between the top and bottom wheels. Am going to try moving the bottom wheel out to compensate.



Mark


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Krysstel":hyv0d8br said:


> Been very busy with other things this week so havn't managed to sort out the tracking issue yet. However I spent 15 minutes on it yesterday and have come up against a new snag.
> When I took the casing off I found the circlip from the top wheel spindle and a couple of shims laying at the bottom of the chassis :shock: It seems to me that the circlip is too loose on the spindle and there should maybe be another shim added behind it. This has probably been caused by wear and the shims have become thinner over time. The circlip is also a bit loose and needs to be replaced. Anyway, whatever the cause the circlip had fallen off and the only thing holding the wheel on was the blade tension - which I'd forgotten to slacken :roll:
> Can anyone suggest a solution ? I've heard of cutting such shims from drinks cans for instance, but don't know if it really works.
> I'm also a bit concerned about the top wheel only being secured by a circlip whilst the bottom wheel has a securing bolt on the end of the spindle. Maybe it's possible to drill and tap the top spindle and add a bolt and washer in addition to the circlip.
> 
> Have checked the coplanarity again and confirmed an approximate 5mm difference between the top and bottom wheels. Am going to try moving the bottom wheel out to compensate.
> 
> 
> 
> Mark


If you take a look at my saw the top is secured by a circlip and the bottom has no bolt, never has had. 

A new circlip and shims should be enough.


----------



## jimi43

I should think that with a fixed configuration that shims are the way to adjust the wheels on the spindles so that they become coplanar? Just a thought.

Questions on the INCA Yahoo forum are most likely to get you confirmation though as there are many members all with your saw.

Jim


----------



## Krysstel

> I should think that with a fixed configuration that shims are the way to adjust the wheels on the spindles so that they become coplanar? Just a thought.



Jim.
Good idea but won't work for this problem. The top wheel is all the way in on the spindle and still 5mm further out than the bottom wheel. Had the problem been reversed then, yes, I could shim behind the top wheel to move it out and use correspondingly fewer shims behind the circlip.
The bottom wheel doesn't have shims at all but is secured by a grub screw, and on my machine by a retaining bolt - unlike Jerome's which only has a grub screw.

Having a bit of trouble sourcing suitable shim washers locally here. What do you think of the beer-can idea ? Too inaccurate maybe ?

Mark


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Krysstel":1zhfgfnx said:


> I should think that with a fixed configuration that shims are the way to adjust the wheels on the spindles so that they become coplanar? Just a thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jim.
> Good idea but won't work for this problem. The top wheel is all the way in on the spindle and still 5mm further out than the bottom wheel. Had the problem been reversed then, yes, I could shim behind the top wheel to move it out and use correspondingly fewer shims behind the circlip.
> The bottom wheel doesn't have shims at all but is secured by a grub screw, and on my machine by a retaining bolt - unlike Jerome's which only has a grub screw.
> 
> Having a bit of trouble sourcing suitable shim washers locally here. What do you think of the beer-can idea ? Too inaccurate maybe ?
> 
> Mark
Click to expand...

Beer / coke cans are very uniform in thickness but may be too soft.


----------



## Krysstel

> Beer / coke cans are very uniform in thickness but may be too soft.



I can get hold of some proper shim washers by post but not off the shelf anywhere so in the meantime I'll give the beer can idea a go and put some proper shims in later. I want the machine up and running this weekend.

Mark


----------



## jimi43

Most beer/soda cans are aluminium so I would avoid that.

Try smoked fish tins...you might have a few up your way! :mrgreen: 

Jim


----------



## Krysstel

jimi43":1t78zji6 said:


> Most beer/soda cans are aluminium so I would avoid that.
> 
> Try smoked fish tins...you might have a few up your way! :mrgreen:
> 
> Jim



Good one ! :deer 
Will do :wink: 

Mark


----------



## John Brown

I just ran mine with the side panel off(never done that before - too scary) and the 1/4 inch blade tracks perfectly with the teeth hanging over the edge of the tyre, both top and bottom.
I know for a fact that the wheels are not co-planar.
I realize this may not make sense, but I can't dismiss the evidence of my own eyes!
Anyway, there are two things I don't understand:
1)If the wheels are supposed to be co-planar, then what does the tracking do?
2)If the tracking adjustment tilts the top wheel, how can the wheels remain co-planar?


----------



## Krysstel

> 1)If the wheels are supposed to be co-planar, then what does the tracking do?
> 2)If the tracking adjustment tilts the top wheel, how can the wheels remain co-planar?



Two very good questions that I don't understand either.
Hopefully someone will enlighten us :? 

Mark


----------



## Krysstel

Sorted :lol: 

I fixed the loose top wheel by adding a normal washer the same diameter as the shim-washers and shuffled the shims around the normal washer until the circlip was a tight fit.
The bottom wheel I moved out on the spindle equivalent to the thickness of 3 small washers that I used as packing behind the securing bolt. This moved the wheel out sufficient to get it nigh on coplanar with the top wheel.
Retracked the blade and now it runs parallel and the same place on both wheels  






An so to Jim's lignum guide blocks.
One of the short ones was a tad tight in the holder so I carefully took off a little with some wet&dry on my planer table. The other blocks went straight in.





One of the long top blocks was not quite 45 degrees but I'm sure it'll wear itself in against the blade. You can just see where I mean in this picture.





All the other blocks fitted perfectly although in hindsight I could have given Jim slightly oversize dimensions and then sanded each block down individually to a snug fit in each block holder. Something to bear in mind if anyone else decided to use lignum blocks in their saw.





With everything sorted it was time to switch on. Resawing had been requested so I resawed the piece of oak from last time. No problems whatsoever.
And the lignum blocks worked perfectly. Whereas the steel ones sounded like locomotive wheels on iron tracks the lignum blocks just make a light hissing noise. Excellent stuff =D> Well done Jim :wink: 





That's it. Finished.
Thanks to everyone for all their help and advise.
Now on to the next restoration project https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/morten-moretens-pt-t57207.html

Mark


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown":7pqk2m4v said:


> I just ran mine with the side panel off(never done that before - too scary) and the 1/4 inch blade tracks perfectly with the teeth hanging over the edge of the tyre, both top and bottom.
> I know for a fact that the wheels are not co-planar.
> I realize this may not make sense, but I can't dismiss the evidence of my own eyes!
> Anyway, there are two things I don't understand:
> 1)If the wheels are supposed to be co-planar, then what does the tracking do?
> 2)If the tracking adjustment tilts the top wheel, how can the wheels remain co-planar?


If the blade is tracking in the same place on both wheels then QED the wheels have to be coplanar ( or virtually so)

As you can see with Mark"'s saw, and as he has said, the wheels are quite a bit out. So his blade can't track in the same place. 

AFAICWO You start with the wheels coplanar. Then the tracking adjust is like the steering on a bicycle. But if you don't start from coplanar then it will not track properly.

PS edit for clarity. When the tracking is neutral with no blade, and at rest the wheels should be coplanar. From that point tensioning and tracking the blade and running the saw. The wheels may not be perfectly coplanar when the saw is working.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Congratulations Mark

If you can resaw that then there is nothing wrong with the saw and everything right

FWIW Axminster has th bearings and at a good price too


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Steve Maskery":1cec1xki said:


> sometimewoodworker":1cec1xki said:
> 
> 
> 
> That is why Bandsaw fences can be adjusted to compensate. Also you can take that into account with the miter guide.
> 
> 
> 
> How? Please explain further, I'm a bear etc, etc.
Click to expand...





Please understand that I have no wish to be in an educational, female grandparent, pre-baby chicken, inhalation of air, situation.   

Aligning fence to the cut of the blade, assuming the tracking etc has been done:
Align the rip fence to the mitre slot
Take a parallel thinish board 15 mm x 2" or 3" wide by a meter (sizes are not exact though it should be parallel)
Scribe a line parallel to and about 15 mm in from one side. 
Freehand (no fence) cut about halfway down the board along your line. 
Do not move the board, turn the saw off, clamp the board down. 
Draw a pencil line on the table along the edge of th board. You have now accounted for the blade not cu tting perfectly due north. Sometimes called blade drift

Having done this you need to set your rip fence to the line on the table top. This is often done with a sub fence. For a great video see correct blade drift

Having done that, and yes you should do it when you change blades, to set your mitre gage take the angle from the adjusted fence.


----------



## Steve Maskery

Jerome
You have described how to adjust the RIP FENCE for drift. But you have not described how, by altering the mitre fence off square, that compensates for drift. It doesn't, because, whatever angle it is set to, it is still MOVING in a True North direction and that is the critical point. It's why mitre fences are pretty useless unless you tune out drift rather than compensate for it.

S


----------



## jimi43

Hi Mark

Well done on getting the saw sorted....nice to see the LV blocks in-situ and like I said in the PM...the main thing for me is the noise reduction. 

One thing to watch very carefully is that the thrust bearings are always such that when you put pressure on the blade the teeth do not move back into the blocks. As you can probably see from the old metal ones...it ruins the blocks and the set of the teeth so pay extra attention before each work session that they are set ok.

I really must get around to making myself a pair for my bandsaw!  

Jim


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Steve Maskery":orq01qxd said:


> Jerome
> You have described how to adjust the RIP FENCE for drift. But you have not described how, by altering the mitre fence off square, that compensates for drift. It doesn't, because, whatever angle it is set to, it is still MOVING in a True North direction and that is the critical point. It's why mitre fences are pretty useless unless you tune out drift rather than compensate for it.
> 
> S


I have made little use of my mitre fences as they are not very good, I've used other ways to get perfect angled cuts, so I don't have an answer to your question. 

I would be interested to know how to tune out drift other than by using a saw set. This takes a long time for less than excelent results and of course won't work if you have a carbide-tipped bandsaw blade.


----------



## JakeS

sometimewoodworker":hm1nxiwb said:


> I would be interested to know how to tune out drift other than by using a saw set.



I believe Steve is referring to adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot. Of course, he can't outright say "buy _Workshop Essentials 4_"!

I took a different approach, which has served me well for a little while now; if you can't get the blade parallel to the mitre slot, then you need a mitre slot parallel to your blade... ;-)
Of course, I've only used it for 90-degree cuts and 45-degree cuts in combination with a rafter square, other angles would need one copy of the angle cut beforehand to hold the wood against, unless you wanted to mount your existing mitre fence onto the sled...!



(As to eliminating drift, I found that sufficient tension + decent, wide blade + fence parallel to blade + careful feed rate was all I needed.)


----------



## sometimewoodworker

JakeS":l4tfyo90 said:


> sometimewoodworker":l4tfyo90 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would be interested to know how to tune out drift other than by using a saw set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe Steve is referring to adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot. Of course, he can't outright say "buy _Workshop Essentials 4_"!
> 
> I took a different approach, which has served me well for a little while now; if you can't get the blade parallel to the mitre slot, then you need a mitre slot parallel to your blade... ;-)
> Of course, I've only used it for 90-degree cuts and 45-degree cuts in combination with a rafter square, other angles would need one copy of the angle cut beforehand to hold the wood against, unless you wanted to mount your existing mitre fence onto the sled...!
> 
> 
> 
> (As to eliminating drift, I found that sufficient tension + decent, wide blade + fence parallel to blade + careful feed rate was all I needed.)
Click to expand...


As some blades start with some drift and many develope some when you say "adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot." I can only think you mean adjust the table so the blade cuts parallel to the mitre slot. Is this what you mean? If not then I fail to see how to account for blade drift. You seem to have taken that approach. 

My difficulty in understanding comes from the fact that some blades don't cut in line (blade drift) so adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot doesn't help. 

I don't think I am being obtuse.


----------



## Krysstel

jimi43":2if4uoab said:


> Hi Mark
> 
> Well done on getting the saw sorted....nice to see the LV blocks in-situ and like I said in the PM...the main thing for me is the noise reduction.
> 
> One thing to watch very carefully is that the thrust bearings are always such that when you put pressure on the blade the teeth do not move back into the blocks. As you can probably see from the old metal ones...it ruins the blocks and the set of the teeth so pay extra attention before each work session that they are set ok.
> 
> I really must get around to making myself a pair for my bandsaw!
> 
> Jim


Thanks :wink: And thanks again for making the blocks.
Good point about the thrust bearings. I'll definately check before I use the saw next time. 

Mark


----------



## Steve Maskery

JakeS":34vf0e9u said:


> I believe Steve is referring to adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot. Of course, he can't outright say "buy _Workshop Essentials 4_"!



I couldn't possibly comment. 

But yes, I am. It solves all these problems and mitre fences become useable again.

S


----------



## Steve Maskery

sometimewoodworker":36s5y1gy said:


> My difficulty in understanding comes from the fact that some blades don't cut in line (blade drift) so adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot doesn't help.



On the contrary, Jerome, it's exactly the way to solve the problem.

Can you try something out for me? Track your blade to run on the front edge of the top wheel and see what direction it cuts in. Now track it to run on the back edge of the wheel. Does it cut in the same direction? If it does then I am talking tosh, but if it doesn't then you will see what I'm driving at.

I'm not trying to pick a fight here! 

S


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Steve Maskery":pss5o1o3 said:


> sometimewoodworker":pss5o1o3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> My difficulty in understanding comes from the fact that some blades don't cut in line (blade drift) so adjusting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot doesn't help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the contrary, Jerome, it's exactly the way to solve the problem.
> 
> Can you try something out for me? Track your blade to run on the front edge of the top wheel and see what direction it cuts in. Now track it to run on the back edge of the wheel. Does it cut in the same direction? If it does then I am talking tosh, but if it doesn't then you will see what I'm driving at.
> 
> I'm not trying to pick a fight here!
> 
> S
Click to expand...


Neither am I, and when I get to my bandsaw I will try it. FWIW that will be towards the end of Feburary. Any other tips?


----------



## John Brown

If the wheels/tyres are not crowned(as in the Inca case, and this thread was originally about an Inca), I don't see how the blade can be aligned to the mitre slot.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown":1hn5b1b5 said:


> If the wheels/tyres are not crowned(as in the Inca case, and this thread was originally about an Inca), I don't see how the blade can be aligned to the mitre slot.


I'm with you on that. 

However I'm going to give steve's advice a try as it can't do any harm for a short time.


----------



## Steve Maskery

The top wheel is not necessarily vertical, is it? So if it is tilted to the rear, or tilted forward, it is the same as being crowned as far as the stance of the blade is concerned. It's just that it is more pronounced (and, in my view, easier) to adjust if there is some crowning. But the effect is still there.
Just try it! 
S


----------



## Steve Maskery

Now look what you've made me do, it's so long since I used Sketchup.....

Can we agree on a few basics? 
The blade will always ride in the least stressed position. That means the smallest diameter it can. So it rides "downhill".

If it's not in the centre and the wheel is tilted, the teeth and the back edge (Points A and B respectively in my diagrams) are under different degrees of tension. Point A is actually a different diameter to Point B. It's greater if the wheel is tilted back, it's less if the wheel is tilted forward. Not by much, certainly, but it is different.

Are we agreed on that? I do hope so. Right, so in these diagrams the blade is red and the wheel is grey. These are sectional views from the side.







and






As you can see, the effect is more pronounced if the wheel is crowned, but it is still there even if the wheel is flat.
It's this difference in diameter that causes it to cut to one side or the other, and by altering these stresses (by tilting the wheel) we can alter the direction in which it cuts, to eliminate drift.

Mine's a pint. 
Steve


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Steve Maskery":1phl0sxf said:


> .
> It's this difference in diameter that causes it to cut to one side or the other, and by altering these stresses (by tilting the wheel) we can alter the direction in which it cuts, to eliminate drift.
> 
> Mine's a pint.
> Steve



It looks as if by changing the tracking between the front and back of the wheel you are twisting it so it should change its position between the guides like so / | \ This is exaggerated of course. Is this what you mean?


----------



## Steve Maskery

Hooray!
=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Steve Maskery":2hch0m5s said:


> Hooray!
> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>


OK so you *don't* need the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot. You just need it to *cut* parallel to the mitre slot


----------



## Steve Maskery

Well that's a very fine distinction, but yes.
S


----------



## Krysstel

I think I mentioned earlier that I was planing to try resawing with my Inca.
The pictures below tell the story.
The timber is birch, 2,1m long, 11cm high, resawed to 2 boards 25mm thick.
I used this blade :-
5/8" - SuperTuff Fastcut 1854mm - 2297mm•Blade Length - 73” / 1854mm
•Bandsaw Model No. (optional) - Inca 340
•TPI - Fastcut
Didn't bother mucking about with high/long auxillary fences or a bigger table, just positioned two roller stands a meter or so in front and behind.
Fantastic smooth result which is more likely a result of the excellent Tuffsaw blade rather than my technique  

Mark


----------



## marcros

looks a good result. is that about the limit, height-wise of the saw?


----------



## Krysstel

marcros":xsta0n8q said:


> looks a good result. is that about the limit, height-wise of the saw?



I think it could probably manage the full 15cm on a good day, depending on the material :wink: 

Mark


----------



## richarnold

Hi, Iv'e been using one of these saws for about 20 years now, and i have never had any problems. I once cut two 10 foot curved supports for a oriental style garden bridge out of 3 inch iroko, and it didn't even grunt. have to say it's one of the earlier swiss ones which does seem to make a difference. a luthier friend of mine had a later french model, and had quite a few problems with it


----------



## Krysstel

Mine's Swiss :wink: 

Mark


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Just a couple of accessories that are designed for the saw and a question.











the question

a sawdust deflector has dropped off and I'd like to put it back on the right way round can someone take a pic of their cover please.


----------



## condeesteso

Jerome - that sawdust reflector looks very interesting. But I can't work out where on the door these are, and your comment 'which way round?'
I have a Kity 413 which is a mirror image of this, and have spent time tuning the dust extraction, so I'd like to understand this better.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

condeesteso":2yvztazd said:


> Jerome - that sawdust reflector looks very interesting. But I can't work out where on the door these are, and your comment 'which way round?'
> I have a Kity 413 which is a mirror image of this, and have spent time tuning the dust extraction, so I'd like to understand this better.


The deflectors are on the front bottom of the plastic cover. The bottom one is still in place as you can see. But the top one has fallen off. It can go with either the flat face up or down. (The bottom one has the flat face down.) The lighter plastic that was under it is a perfect fit in either orientation. This is why I ask.


----------



## maxheadroom

Hi is this a record for cheapest 342 bandsaw from ebay - £10.50 won just before xmas by myself - i have now replaced the bearings, made a alu table insert and honed the blade guides - (did i mention its Swiss version) - still feeling smug (homer)


----------



## John Brown

You have good reason to feel smug.
Do you have any details on the alu insert?


----------



## Robertj90

Hello there. 
Did you get the Tuffsaw blades for your Euro 260? Was 73" the correct size? I have just bought the same machine on Finn and will be replacing the same parts.


----------



## Krysstel

Robertj90":1j21tbyp said:


> Hello there.
> Did you get the Tuffsaw blades for your Euro 260? Was 73" the correct size? I have just bought the same machine on Finn and will be replacing the same parts.



I have used only Tuffsaw blades on my Inca and they are excellent. Brilliant in fact.
1854mm is the correct size.

May I ask how much you had to pay for your saw, on Finn ?


Mark


----------



## Henning

Robertj90":12y9ujt5 said:


> Hello there.
> Did you get the Tuffsaw blades for your Euro 260? Was 73" the correct size? I have just bought the same machine on Finn and will be replacing the same parts.



If you are the lucky so and so who got a practically new one for 500 NOK... :x  
Only joking of course. I've also only used Tuffsaw blades on mine, but i would have to check which size. Ian sorted me out with blades! 

It's a cracking little saw, that's for sure! How about some pic's of yours?


----------



## woodworkingMK

Hello, I have chance to buy Inca Bandsaw. I don't know exact model, but I think it's 342.186 It's the same from the pictures.

My main concern is that the motor is beneath the table. I searched on internet and didn't find such models. Although in the instruction manual there is such option with woodstand and motor beneath the table.

Have you seen such model of Inca Bandsaw?


----------



## sometimewoodworker

woodworkingMK":2b0gnzov said:


> Hello, I have chance to buy Inca Bandsaw. I don't know exact model, but I think it's 342.186 It's the same from the pictures.
> 
> My main concern is that the motor is beneath the table. I searched on internet and didn't find such models. Although in the instruction manual there is such option with woodstand and motor beneath the table.
> 
> Have you seen such model of Inca Bandsaw?




It's a variant version. 342.186 is the main model number but you are missing the last part of the model number.
Mine is 342.186.04 that one will be different you can find the manual for it here http://m.imgur.com/a/MhUvj

Of course you can't buy them new now.


----------



## marcros

woodworkingMK":fh4jhyjq said:


> Hello, I have chance to buy Inca Bandsaw. I don't know exact model, but I think it's 342.186 It's the same from the pictures.
> 
> My main concern is that the motor is beneath the table. I searched on internet and didn't find such models. Although in the instruction manual there is such option with woodstand and motor beneath the table.
> 
> Have you seen such model of Inca Bandsaw?



that looks like quite an inca collection in the pics. the planer thicknesser would be worth a look if you have the chance, particularly if the motor is at the side.


----------



## woodworkingMK

I wanted to buy the p/t, but he asked too much for it. 

Now when I got p/t, I got interested in the bandsaw. All machines are brought from Switzerland. And are like new. He has table saw also, dust collector etc Here you can see all machines, http://www.pazar3.mk/mk/Listing/AdDetai ... ka-na-drva there are other things also, like very good bench.

He said that he bought them from a man who went into retirement, and he cleaned up everything in his workshop.

You can see that every machine is with motor beneath the table.

My main concern is that the moving of the bandsaw will be more difficult because I need to move the whole table also, and second concern is the setting and stabilty of the machine, because I have additional belt here. I hope I can set it corectly..

Here is the part of the manual where it can be seen the woodstand http://i.imgur.com/JhYVsnu.jpg


----------



## marcros

That is strange- I havent seen a bandsaw like that either. I think that back in the day you could buy the machines with or without motors. I am sure that I have seen it in a pricelist somewhere. I would expect that it is only a matter of removing the belt, and then the 4 bolts holding down the saw. Setting it back up shouldnt be an issue either.


----------



## jimi43

I have a table saw with a stand and the motor is below in the stand in the same way...but Startrite who imported them back in the day made the metal stand.

I can lift the whole thing up myself and move it by hand...actually..I carried it from one side of a field to the other when I bought it in a bootfair! :mrgreen: 

Mine was not quite in the same condition...






But they scrub up nicely....











...stick a FREUD blade on it (190mm) and it cuts like a dream!






I would love to have the complete set...especially the bandsaw...and in that condition!! WOW!

I don't know how much you are talking about but in the USA these things go for a fortune...and for good reason...they are beautifully made machines.

I shouldn't worry at all about the motor...least of your worries...bite his hand off before someone else reads this and beats you to it! :mrgreen: 

Cheers

Jimi


----------



## marcros

a very nice planer thicknesser made £870 at the weekend. It was the newer model with disposable blades. I keep hoping to get the table saw one one day to go with my bandsaw and p/t. rapidly running out of space though and dont need a second bandsaw, but i cant bear to part with it!


----------



## woodworkingMK

Hello, I bought the machine I was asking in the previous posts.  The machine is like new, but it has not been used many years. I am in a process of putting into work and have some questions.

I have problem with the making wheels coplanar.

The upper wheel needs to go out for 7-8mm. I detached the bottom wheel to see if I can set it in, but that's the maximum it can go. So the only thing left me to do is setting the upper wheel.

Here is the situation:




I tried to put shims here:





And I got this, 





I have at this point 3 points that are coplanar, but not the highest one, where there is a gap of 5-6mm, i.e. the upper wheel is tilted.

The problem is that it can't go any further, because the tensioning bolt cannot move anymore at the direction I need - at left 





Any help would be much appreciated. By the way exact model of the machine is 342.186.0.2


----------



## sometimewoodworker

The important point is, can you get the blade to track correctly? If you can then stop worryingly 

For this saw the tracking for the blade is very unusual in that it should track with the blade teeth just off the tyre. 

The blade should not track in the centre of the tyre and the tyre is flat not crowned.

You can get the manual from the yahoo group

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/inc ... 20Manuals/


----------



## Krysstel

I had an issue with my wheels not being coplanar (page 7 and onwards in this thread) but I had the opposite problem with the top wheel being too far out in relation to the bottom wheel. I compensated by shiming out the bottom wheel.
Until I solved the coplanar issue I couldn't get the blade to track correctly no matter what I did or how I adjusted. Now, 3 or more years later, the saw tracks correctly all the time and no matter what width of blade I use, from 1/4" to 3/8". 

Mark


----------



## John Brown

Krysstel":3uucdqak said:


> I had an issue with my wheels not being coplanar (page 7 and onwards in this thread) but I had the opposite problem with the top wheel being too far out in relation to the bottom wheel. I compensated by shiming out the bottom wheel.
> Until I solved the coplanar issue I couldn't get the blade to track correctly no matter what I did or how I adjusted. Now, 3 or more years later, the saw tracks correctly all the time and no matter what width of blade I use, from 1/4" to 3/8".
> 
> Mark



Interesting. Maybe I'll devote some more time to trying to get my wheels co-planar. They surely aren't at the moment. When trying to achieve co-planarity, how did you have the tracking adjustmnet set?


----------



## Krysstel

John Brown":2id19hah said:


> Interesting. Maybe I'll devote some more time to trying to get my wheels co-planar. They surely aren't at the moment. When trying to achieve co-planarity, how did you have the tracking adjustmnet set?



Looking back at page 8 of this thread I wrote :-

Only the upper wheel can be adjusted and the following 2 pictures show the best I managed. I feel the blade is far too far in on the upper wheel and too far out on the bottom. But what can I do about it, if anything ? I'm tempted to just move the lower wheel further out on the spindle, lock it off with the grub screw and put a packing washer behind the spindle bolt. Is that a feasible solution or just plain daft ? 

The pictures showed the blade towards the back of the top wheel and the teeth on the front edge of the bottom wheel.

Mark


----------



## BillK

Hi all,
A neighbour gave me an Inca, a Swiss one. It's a bit grubby but I'm sorting it out. The thrust rollers were manky, I got some skateboard bearings which are dead-on for size and very cheap.

I measured the broken blade on it which matches the 1854mm mentioned here, the manual says different sizes, confusingly - this is my first bandsaw so it's all very new. I'll need some blades, from this thread it looks like Tuffsaws is the place to go. I'll mainly be slicing guitar bodies, about 40mm thick, getting close to a template outline for final routing. Any recommendations on a blade spec? I've no clue what would be the right sort of thing -

cheers
Bill


----------



## rxh

The correct length is 73"" (~ 1854 mm). What is the smallest radius bend that that you will want to cut?


----------



## jimi43

BillK":2cuw35k3 said:


> Hi all,
> A neighbour gave me an Inca, a Swiss one. It's a bit grubby but I'm sorting it out. The thrust rollers were manky, I got some skateboard bearings which are dead-on for size and very cheap.
> 
> I measured the broken blade on it which matches the 1854mm mentioned here, the manual says different sizes, confusingly - this is my first bandsaw so it's all very new. I'll need some blades, from this thread it looks like Tuffsaws is the place to go. I'll mainly be slicing guitar bodies, about 40mm thick, getting close to a template outline for final routing. Any recommendations on a blade spec? I've no clue what would be the right sort of thing -
> 
> cheers
> Bill



Send Ian at Tuffsaws exactly what you have written here and he will advise the best for your application. He has never steered me wrong.

Also Steve Maskery's excellent bandsaw setup DVD is a must if you want to get the best out of your saw...it's worth its weight in gold.

http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/

Nice bandsaw! 

Cheers

Jimi


----------



## BillK

Thanks for that Jimi, appreciated 
cheers
Bill


----------



## sometimewoodworker

jimi43":1y1lv1fs said:


> BillK":1y1lv1fs said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> A neighbour gave me an Inca, a Swiss one. It's a bit grubby but I'm sorting it out. The thrust rollers were manky, I got some skateboard bearings which are dead-on for size and very cheap.
> 
> I measured the broken blade on it which matches the 1854mm mentioned here, the manual says different sizes, confusingly - this is my first bandsaw so it's all very new. I'll need some blades, from this thread it looks like Tuffsaws is the place to go. I'll mainly be slicing guitar bodies, about 40mm thick, getting close to a template outline for final routing. Any recommendations on a blade spec? I've no clue what would be the right sort of thing -
> 
> cheers
> Bill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Send Ian at Tuffsaws exactly what you have written here and he will advise the best for your application. He has never steered me wrong.
> 
> Also Steve Maskery's excellent bandsaw setup DVD is a must if you want to get the best out of your saw...it's worth its weight in gold.
> 
> http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/
> 
> Nice bandsaw!
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Jimi
Click to expand...


I'm sure that the DVD is as good as you say. However the Inca has a flat tyre not a crowned one and the blade should run with the teeth off the front edge of it not on the tyre. This is possibly unique to this saw so all the part dealing with tracking and drift do not apply to the Inca and if you try to use that system you will wear out the tyres prematurely. .


----------



## woodworkingMK

Hello all, has anyone here made modification on the blade guide, instead of blocks, to install bearings like this https://www.amazon.com/Carter-Products- ... earing+kit

I attached a picture of my current system, but I believe with bearings will greatly improve. I was wondering if anyone made this already. I was thinking if a machinist can do such modification or make new one.


----------



## scholar

Hi
I have recently refurbished one of these lovely bandsaws. 

I fitted some of these ceramic guide blocks http://incamachines.com/english/inca-5- ... ndsaw.html and so far they seem absolutely fine - I am used to roller bearing type guides, but think it is unnecessary to reengineer the existing Inca set up. 

Cheers


----------



## woodworkingMK

That's too much money for these blocks. Mine, that are original, seem good. I don't know what those ceramics would improve in comparison with the original ones?


----------



## scholar

I have the originals that are easily reground if necessary - I agree they are fine. I added the ceramic blocks as they are stated to stay cool and therefore not move and get worn away - in my case it is early days, but I was happy with the upgrade for a relatively small outlay. 

I have also acquired recently the fretsaw guides that take a 3mm blade - they comprise a pair of wheels (upper and lower) with a fine slot in which the back of the blade engages - these guides are fitted only to the left hand horizontal guide post. I have yet to try these. 

Cheers


----------



## scholar

Incidentally, Inca Machines, the company that I linked to earlier, http://incamachines.com/english/ have been excellent in supplying some old and new parts and some very responsive advice on a few details. 

Cheers


----------



## woodworkingMK

That's good to know, thanks. It seems like it's new, because when I was searching few years ago when I bought the Band Saw it was not so.


----------



## SkinnyB

I brought some lignum vitae wood and made a few of my own guide blocks. The original ones were short and the original owner had not set them up right. Very cheap way of doing it. Plus its self lubricating wood. Used to be used for ship bearings I believe. 

They do not last as long as metal ones but I can have them just touching the blade and still have it running super quiet.


----------



## woodworkingMK

What about the original ones, should they be lubricated with something, or maybe to put some wax on them?


----------



## SkinnyB

Any lubrication that way, I doubt would last long. Get the guides a paper width spaced away and you should be good


----------



## powertools

As the owner of an Inca bandsaw from new out of interest I have just scanned through 13 pages of this old thread.
I have no desire to comment on what others have said and am not going to enter into a debate on bandsaw set up, not all bandsaws are the same and even the same model of saw from the same supplier will need to be set up differently to get best results.
In my experience of the Inca saw if it is fitted with a good quality sharp blade tensioned and tracked properly the side guides serve little purpose, they are only there to compensate for a dull blade or too fast a feed rate causing the cut to drift.


----------



## DTR

woodworkingMK":3jdjn9rs said:


> Hello all, has anyone here made modification on the blade guide, instead of blocks, to install bearings like this https://www.amazon.com/Carter-Products- ... earing+kit
> 
> I attached a picture of my current system, but I believe with bearings will greatly improve. I was wondering if anyone made this already. I was thinking if a machinist can do such modification or make new one.



SWMBO bought an Inca 205 that came without any guides, or the rise/fall mechanism that they attach to. Out of necessity I made new guides:

fixing-an-inca-205-bandsaw-t105540.html

I don't doubt though that the original guides (if fitted!) do an acceptable job


----------



## woodworkingMK

The pictures are not available


----------



## DTR

woodworkingMK":28wkq9vy said:


> The pictures are not available



Do you mean in the thread I linked above? I re-hosted the duff photos, you need to scroll about 15 posts in......


----------



## oyvin10

Bringing up a semi-old thread here. I recently bought a Inca Euro 260 myself after finding a lot of good information in this thread and others. 
I am hoping to learn even more and get some good tips from the Inca groups forum. https://groups.io/g/incawoodworking
I sent a subscription request 3 weeks ago, but still no approval. Does anyone on this forum also frequent on the groups.io forum? Maybe you have contacts that could expediate this process a little?

Anyways, my saw is a 1991 model(motor tag date), looks like it has been standing still for a while. I got it by mail so before my first startup I did a mini-tear down of the saw and regreased bearings and checked essential parts, no big problems except some surface rust and old sawdust. I really like the saw design, and based on my short ownership it seems like a very capable machine. 

Couple of questions from a band-saw rookie:

- The tires are feeling their age; i.e. rubber is a bit hard, but they look to be intact without any noticable cracks. I found urethane tires on ebay for this saw, *does this type of tire actually give any performance upgrades, or is it a "one-for-one" replacement with better durability?*

- My motivation for getting a band-saw is to be able to resaw wood and have a stationary saw for a quick, easy and flexible cutting solution in the shop. *How many and which types of blades should one have for a band-saw?* I can probably find a million answers for this question. So if someone can narrow it down for me for this specific saw it would be great. 

- I don't have the rip-fence or mitre-fence, nor the bracket for the rip-fence. *Does anyone have a good recipe for a DIY rip fence for this specific saw? *


----------



## John Brown

I fitted urethane tyres, and I can't say I noticed any big difference.
Re. blades, as almost everyone else will tell you, contact Ian at Tuffsaw, and tell him what sort of things you hope to do, and he will advise you.


----------



## MusicMan

I am another devotee of the Inca, also having the French model.

Just a point to note in setting up. Most of the instructions you will find refer to the drive wheels being crowned so that the blade rides onto the middle of the wheel. The Incas are flat, and should be set up so the the teeth protrude slightly (by the depth of the teeth) over the edge.

You can buy new guides, metal or ceramic, but lignum vitae wood that you cut yourself works very well.

You are lucky to have the mitre fence. Mine is missing and they are like hen's teeth. One can't use a standard guide either as the guid slot is trapezoidal not square. If anyone has a source for the trapezoidal section that fits in, please let me know!

I find the rip fence the weakest part of the design, but i suspect that different variants have been used in its history. I haven't found a good replacement yet. That is difficult as the table is smaller than the mainstream bandsaws. I tried the Axminster small rip fence but that wasn't satisfactory. Someday I will get down to making a smaller version of Steve Maskery's fence design (see his videos) with a fitting that can easily be removed to allow blade changes.

I have a coarse 1/2" blade for resawing and a 1/4" blade for doing curvy bits.

Keith


----------



## powertools

The tyres on an Inca saw are hard and should be.
The blade should run with the teeth running just in front of the wheels, you would not be able to achieve that with soft tyres.


----------



## woodbloke66

I had one of those for donkey's years; great little saw and as far as I recollect it never broke a bandsaw blade. I used the 1/2" 6tpi Diamond Ground blades from Ax (and still do on my current small bandsaw) on it and they were superb - Rob


----------



## Bm101

Mine clamped up yesterday. Under a bit of pressure I stripped it out and had it working again in 20 minutes. I'm a rank amateur round machines in
terms of that. It's just so well designed. A bomb proof little saw built to great standards. 
Phone Ian at Tuffsaws. Don't email. He will talk you through what you want your saw to do and supply you top quality blades.
Rob above recommends the Axminster ones and he's certainly no slouch so you have a choice of two suppliers but if you don't know what blades you want Ian will help you out for nothing at least for your first blades.
Online copy of the manual here:
https://m.imgur.com/a/XW1av

At this point I don't want a circular saw but like you ( I think?) I am a hobbyist. The Inca was a total game changer for me. Completely altered how I work (dabble) from night to day. I think you've made a good choice based on personal experience at least. 
Welcome to the fan club.


----------



## Sideways

I've seen the rip fence for these. You're not missing much. They are pretty small and feeble. Press on with your search for an aftermarket alternative.


----------



## samhay

I have a similar vintage of Euro 260. Lovely little thing.
I assume your's has a Hoover motor?

You can get spares from:
https://incamachines.com/english/inca-spare-parts.html

I find the mitre guide and rip fence useful, but wouldn't buy them at those prices. You are also missing the guide that the fence clamps on to, which further complicated things.

I built an extension table for my saw that extends towards the throat and out over the motor. This is bolted to the underside of the table via a number of existing threaded blind bolt holes in the table - think they may be M6, but easy enough to check. These are also used to bolt the fence guide in place and should be able to be repurposed to add another type of rip fence.


----------



## woodbloke66

Bm101":peil9jix said:


> Rob above recommends the Axminster ones and he's certainly no slouch so you have a choice of two suppliers but if you don't know what blades you want Ian will help you out for nothing at least for your first blades.
> 
> At this point I don't want a circular saw but like you ( I think?) I am a hobbyist. The Inca was a total game changer for me. Completely altered how I work (dabble) from night to day. I think you've made a good choice based on personal experience at least.
> Welcome to the fan club.


Blade length from memory is 73.5" which is exactly the same length as required on my current small bandsaw
If you're dithering over whether or not you need a tablesaw, the answer is that you don't, especially in a smallish workshop. What you _do_ need is a really good shooting board; I've made loads and this one is several light years ahead of the curve . With a good bandsaw (and the Euro is one of the best IMO) and a shooting board you're pretty much set up for most stuff and you have the option to buy a dedicated plane if required which makes it super efficient.
Speaking to a mate the other day (I do have a few  ) who as a pro', mentioned that his Hammer combo was indispensable for quick, accurate repeat cuts in order to churn out stuff for craft fairs, Etsy etc etc which is not the sort of work I'm interested in, so yes, that's when a table saw comes into it's own - Rob


----------



## oyvin10

samhay":19fd681z said:


> I have a similar vintage of Euro 260. Lovely little thing.
> I assume your's has a Hoover motor?
> 
> I find the mitre guide and rip fence useful, but wouldn't buy them at those prices. You are also missing the guide that the fence clamps on to, which further complicated things.
> 
> I built an extension table for my saw that extends towards the throat and out over the motor. This is bolted to the underside of the table via a number of existing threaded blind bolt holes in the table - think they may be M6, but easy enough to check. These are also used to bolt the fence guide in place and should be able to be repurposed to add another type of rip fence.



Mine has a Leroy Somer motor, 0.44kW / 1000rpm. 
Agree with your and others assessment of the OEM rip fence, does not look to be worth the price on incas website. I think going for a table extension as you have is a good idea, and something I will go for as well. Makes it easier to adapt/make a new rip fence and other accessories. Extending it towards the motor is a great idea. 



woodbloke66":19fd681z said:


> Bm101":19fd681z said:
> 
> 
> 
> Rob above recommends the Axminster ones and he's certainly no slouch so you have a choice of two suppliers but if you don't know what blades you want Ian will help you out for nothing at least for your first blades.
> 
> At this point I don't want a circular saw but like you ( I think?) I am a hobbyist. The Inca was a total game changer for me. Completely altered how I work (dabble) from night to day. I think you've made a good choice based on personal experience at least.
> Welcome to the fan club.
> 
> 
> 
> Blade length from memory is 73.5" which is exactly the same length as required on my current small
> If you're dithering over whether or not you need a tablesaw, the answer is that you don't, especially in a smallish workshop. What you _do_ need is a really good shooting board; I've made loads and this is several light years ahead of the curve . With a good bandsaw (and the Euro is one of the best IMO) and a shooting board you're pretty much set up for most stuff and you have the option to buy a dedicated plane if required which makes it super efficient.
> Speaking to a mate the other day (I do have a few  ) who as a pro', mentioned that his Hammer combo was indispensable for quick, accurate repeat cuts in order to churn out stuff for craft fairs, Etsy etc etc which is not the sort of work I'm interested in, so yes, that's when a table saw comes into it's own - Rob
Click to expand...


I have been considering a table saw, but find that I can do most of it with my track-saw, and the size / set-up of my "shop" does not really allow for effective use of a tablesaw. The band-saw purchase further reduces the need for a table saw. 

I have bought a couple of hand planes recently and made myself a quick and easy shooting board, love the results I am getting. 

I think I will try the axminster blades or ones from a domestic supplier here in Norway if they would just answer my emails.


----------



## Bm101

Thanks Rob. An almost prescient reply. 
Sorting extraction issues and trying to sound damp the vac and sort a cyclone next. Then yeh. That shooting board is on the cards. Looks a proper job. I have a couple of router options to sort but they are longer term goals. Day to day I think you nailed it. 
I have no desire to have a table saw tbh.
It's taken me a while to find the right balance of where I want to be in the 240v and hand tool spectrum. Have some planes to move on shortly but I might just keep the record 5 back... might _even_ tap a handle in the side... :-"


----------



## woodbloke66

oyvin10":1urn5cy6 said:


> I think I will try the axminster blades or ones from a domestic supplier here in Norway if they would just answer my emails.


Axminster like Scandinavia; if they won't answer your emails, pick up the dog n'bone (that's a 'phone :lol: ) and give them a ring - Rob


----------



## Trevanion

Is it just me or does seeing a bandsaw with the pillar on the righthand side make anyone else feel funny? Just doesn't sit right with me at all! :lol:


----------



## John Brown

Trevanion":2z5liyhr said:


> Is it just me or does seeing a bandsaw with the pillar on the righthand side make anyone else feel funny? Just doesn't sit right with me at all! :lol:


All the bandsaw I've ever owned have been that way, so no.


----------



## powertools

The blade length for the Inca saw is 1850mm or 73".
I have used blades from several suppliers over the years and I can only say that from my experience the blades from Beaverstock Ltd are far and away the best I have ever used.
http://beverstocksaws.com/
In the Inca saw I use 1/4 4 tpi blades.
It is important to understand that the bar across the front of the table is not only there to support the rip fence but also keeps the table square across the slot in the table.


----------



## powertools

Trevanion":1b9u29ae said:


> Is it just me or does seeing a bandsaw with the pillar on the righthand side make anyone else feel funny? Just doesn't sit right with me at all! :lol:



That along with the fact that the switch is out of sight round the side is a bit of an odd design but you get used to it.


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## Bm101

Wait till you have to reach round the back of the right of the machine to turn it on and off.


Edit. Apologies. Already said!


----------



## samhay

Mine has the switch in a more conventional spot.
Still pineappled about backwards though.


----------



## MusicMan

Seems natural to me, but then I also use an Inca.


----------



## HobbyMekanik

Hi!
Here is a pic on my Inca.
Bought it today. Had another one years ago, but sold it a few years back. Regret selling my old Inca and today this baby became mine


----------



## Bm101

Welcome to the site. That looks absolutely spotless. Almost new. Congratulations!
Could I ask what the dust extraction is? It looks neat. Samhay has a similar looking port In the photo above and it got me wondering. 
I have a cobbled together version that extracts from the bottom of the machine on the side you can remove. I also bought a version from a very inventive forum member that's plastic printed. The only reason I haven't fitted it is that it means you cant tilt the table. It's a cracking bit of kit other than that but requires cutting a hole in the body. Just not sure it's 100 percent the right solution for me yet tbh.
I sometimes just whack the vac nozzle in under the table but its deceptively useless there. Wondering if a port directly under the table or maybe even lower down is better as the dust loses velocity.
Could you take a pic when not too busy?
No worries if you are busy. Regards.
Chris.


----------



## HobbyMekanik

Bm101":1zp4q1ci said:


> Welcome to the site. That looks absolutely spotless. Almost new. Congratulations!
> Could I ask what the dust extraction is? It looks neat. Samhay has a similar looking port In the photo above and it got me wondering.
> I have a cobbled together version that extracts from the bottom of the machine on the side you can remove. I also bought a version from a very inventive forum member that's plastic printed. The only reason I haven't fitted it is that it means you cant tilt the table. It's a cracking bit of kit other than that but requires cutting a hole in the body. Just not sure it's 100 percent the right solution for me yet tbh.
> I sometimes just whack the vac nozzle in under the table but its deceptively useless there. Wondering if a port directly under the table or maybe even lower down is better as the dust loses velocity.
> Could you take a pic when not too busy?
> No worries if you are busy. Regards.
> Chris.



I will try to remember to take a photo and post. But it is the original dust port, in which the previous owner glued the red part which fits on a vacum cleaner.


----------



## samhay

I can take photos of the dust collection if needed. I broke it recently, so is now a little modified, but otherwise is the original part that came with the machine.
It is not spectacularly effective, but does allow the table to tilt while in situ. If someone with a 3D printer fancies making some, I'd be very happy to help.


----------



## John Brown

I created my own, with a "crevice tool" and a fibreglass resin bodywork repair kit. Seems to work OK, but I have nothing to compare it with...


----------



## Bm101

Thanks guys. I didn't know it was an original part.


----------



## HobbyMekanik

Bm101":258ln994 said:


> Welcome to the site. That looks absolutely spotless. Almost new. Congratulations!
> Could I ask what the dust extraction is? It looks neat. Samhay has a similar looking port In the photo above and it got me wondering.
> I have a cobbled together version that extracts from the bottom of the machine on the side you can remove. I also bought a version from a very inventive forum member that's plastic printed. The only reason I haven't fitted it is that it means you cant tilt the table. It's a cracking bit of kit other than that but requires cutting a hole in the body. Just not sure it's 100 percent the right solution for me yet tbh.
> I sometimes just whack the vac nozzle in under the table but its deceptively useless there. Wondering if a port directly under the table or maybe even lower down is better as the dust loses velocity.
> Could you take a pic when not too busy?
> No worries if you are busy. Regards.
> Chris.



Hope this helps Chris!


----------



## Bm101

Brilliant. Thank you for taking the time. John's crevice tool makes sense to me now. 
Heres my makeshift attempt. If I remade it I'd engineer it to cover the sides and have an easy clamp system because you have to take it off to remove the side. Not two screws!
And I'd direct the structure inside better for airflow but being narrow it is surprisingly efficient for a ill thought out 15 minute bodge job.











Cheers 
Chris


----------



## Gazz292

I've just bought a 260 bandsaw, made in 1986, i must say so far i'm very impressed with it, it's so light yet sturdy, and cuts straight as a die with a 9mm blade on it, 
It was well looked after by it's last owner (who had died, i really think the next owner of this bandsaw will get it in the same way, only after i'm gone)

I was missing some little parts, one of the top hat washers under the rip fence support bar, it's available as a spare, but it's £13!! so i turned an M8 nut down to replicate one.

As usual it's missing it's mitre guide, but i'm getting a 3D printer for xmas, and someone has designed and shared the file for one, so that will likely be my first print.

The rip fence is missing it's knob, again that's available, at £20 it's slightly better value than the washer, but it's a plastic part, so i'll print one, someone had modeled a very simple version of it, but it's just a cylinder, no hand grips, so i'll model my own.

Same with the blade/table insert, it's got one made of wood atm, but there's a couple of designs to choose from to 3D print.


It came with a few blades,
4tpi 12mm
2 x 6tpi 12mm (from screwfix, need to turn the blade inside out to get it the right way for the inca's 'backwards' running, 
14tpi 12mm 
and a 6tpi 9mm that was on it, the tyres are in very good condition despite the blade running on the centre of the tyre when i got it.

i've ordered a few more blades, including a 10tpi 19mm, and a couple of 3mm blades, after seeing the fret saw function of this machine (saves me buying a scroll saw)

However to use the 3mm blades i'll need the fretsaw guides, i should be grateful that they are even available, but they are 55 quid, plus vat and £15's worth of postage, makes then just over 70 quid. 

Not something i can 3D print unfortunately, 
I don't suppose anyone has ever found any cheaper alternatives? or someone got a pair to sell that they don't use? 
i was looking at grooved bearings, but can't get any that have a deep enough groove in them.


When the saw is turned off and it's spooling down, it makes a bit of a racket from the top wheel, sounds like it's vibrating, only does it at the speed halfway between full speed and stopped, and only when spooling down,
there dosent seem to be any side to side play in the bearings, the wheel can move back and forwards a few mm on the shaft, it has 2 of the 'precision shims' at the back of the wheel, and one at the front behind the circlip.

Does anyone else have the noise issue i mention? and does their top wheel move as much on the shaft front to back?
wondering if i should get some new bearings for it.
i did try adding a washer behind the shims to take up the front / back play, but it made no difference to the noise.


And finally, it has the original metal blade guides, they'd never even been turned over to use the other side, but i am wondering if i should get some more modern guides? 
the ceramic ones are pretty pricey, i've seen people make some out of wood, and believe someone made and sold them? if so, how much and how to i get some.


----------



## marcros

most parts, I can't help with. knobs I would expect will be a fairly standard metric thread, I would be surprised if you couldn't get one off the shelf somewhere for a couple of quid. 

the guide blocks- I made some from Lignum vitae. they were easy to make, cut roughly to size and refine with either a plane held upside down in a vice, or sandpaper (depending on how far out you are). If you can't get a scrap of lv, a pen blank is one way of getting some. you need approx 10mm x 10mm x 50mm for each guide. I dont recall if there are 2 or 4. 

bearings will be off the shelf sizes. the ones around the blade support were really common. I never replaced any others on mine. 

The table inserts are consumables. I would print that first and if it works, print a few more and list them on ebay for a few quid. I bet that you would get a few sales over time.

I haven't seen the fretsaw guide. how does it work? on some saws you can make some sacrificial guides from mdf. they dont last too long but are easily replaced. do you actually want to use 3mm blades? can you get 3mm blades anywhere?


----------



## John Brown

If you print any table inserts, let me know. I'll buy a few.


----------



## Gazz292

The 'official' knob has a hex shaped hole in the end, i guess the fence uses a standard M8 long bolt and the knob just pushes on the hex head, i bet it's not a standard 13mm hex headed bolt either, the parts drawings in the instruction book i printed out shows what may be another top hat washer in the assembly for the bolt that locks the fence, 

Anyway, i'm using a standard M8 bolt at the moment, I did put an M8 threaded knob on it, then discovered the knob was too large a diameter and stopped me getting the wood flat on the table, so i went back to the bare bolt for now.



The bearings for the top wheel are needle roller bearings, £30 from inca, but i imagine they are more like £5 the pair from a bearing supplier, i just need to measure them.


Pen blanks for the wood to make guide blocks from, brilliant, i'll look to getting some.
The saw uses 2 angled guides and 2 short straight guides.


The fretsaw guides look like grooved bearings, pressed on a short shaft thats in turn pushed into a bit of ally chanel to give it the square shape needed to slide in place of the usual blade guide block.

Picture below is from inca's site. 

i really do like the idea of using a bandsaw for doing intricate curved cuts, like a scroll saw can do. but with the advantage of the wood not being bounced up n down as you cut it 

i've already ordered a 14 and a 18tpi 3mm blade (well, 1/8" blades, 3.175mm, close enough 
£10 each from 'just bandsaw blades' that was plus postage and vat n all that tho.


----------



## Bm101

John Brown said:


> If you print any table inserts, let me know. I'll buy a few.


Please post up. I'd also buy a few.


----------



## Gazz292

I will definately be printing table inserts, but i don't get my printer till xmas.
i've seen a design that prints the prongs that hold it into the table separately... making them printed in the stronger orientation of horizontal printing, 
you then glue the pegs into the slots in the bottom of the actual guide, and stick it in the tables hole, job done.

And that would make them a lot easier to post too... being essentially flat pack they could go in a padded envelope rather than a box (as the ones printed with the prongs sticking up would get smushed flat in the post so easily)

There is someone selling them on ebay, the weaker one piece design, he charges a tener each tho, ok i know everyone wants to make a profit, but it's like 50p's worth of filament, and 40 minutes to print.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Gazz292 said:


> And finally, it has the original metal blade guides, they'd never even been turned over to use the other side, but i am wondering if i should get some more modern guides?


I’ve had mine since about 1975, it has the original guides and I’ve never turned mine. If they’ve been adjusted correctly during the life of the saw there is little to no wear on them. They work, the saw cuts well, why change them?

FWIW I think that I probably need to, for the first time, change the tyres, but living where I do I have a bit more difficulty sourcing and getting parts.

I have recently replaced the tension spring and last week I had to replace the thrust bearing on the lower guide as it partly seized after almost 50 years of life.

If you get round to printing the table inserts I would like to buy a couple as my original got broken earlier this year. I’m attaching a scan of the manual. If you can tell me the missing parts by reference to that I can measure and get you a better idea of what the part looks like.


----------



## adrspach

Recently I bought those inserts from 3D.plastic on bay.


----------



## samhay

I bought a couple of table inserts from 3D.plastic too. I think I paid about 10 quid for 2 of them. They fit nicely and seem to be holding up ok.

It looks like it should be fairly straightforward to make the fretsaw guides. I think the channel in the picture is just for shipping and the shaft fits in place of the normal horizontal guides (round peg in a square hole). You could almost certainly do better.


----------



## BillK

I use skateboard bearings, dirt cheap but although they're sealed they do get rough-running after a while. My metal guides got a quick smoothing, I haven't had a reason to change them though. Not had it that long about 4 years I think, but gets used nearly every day.

The rip fence knob, mine gave up, I just have a spare 10mm spanner hanging on the shaft instead. I need a new rail for the fence though, will probably have to make one.

I made a quickie manifold effort that mounts under the table for extraction, it's not perfect but helps. I hoover out the bottom of the casing now & then.


----------



## Gazz292

Ahh, didnt think about if that bit of what look like ally C channel was to stick in the square hole the blade block goes, or is just there for shipping,

I presume the grove in the 'bearing' will be ~3mm deep, as that's how wide the fret saw blade is,

I can't find any other pictures of the fret guides, i'm assuming it's got a small bearing and a hardened steel 'guide' shrunk on it, but it may be all one piece,
at £70 for those 2 little things delivered... i'm definitely going to attempt to replicate them, i guess the fret saw guides are like the mitre guide on these saws, 90% of owners don't have them, and 95% of those don't need them either.


Re: the table inserts, those ones 3D plastics sells should be good, as he says they are printed in ABS (which is horrible stuff to 3D print... toxic fumes, need for a heated enclosure, high chance of warpage etc... most people have moved onto PETG) 
and he wants 6 quid each which isnt bad at all, considering he's a business (well i presume that, so he has more costs than someone who has their printer for hobby use)
one other person on ebay was doing them in PLA (which is what i'd be using to start with) and wanted a tenner each, but with PLA i'd not print it in one piece due to the weakness of the layers on the tiny legs,

the version that prints the legs separately and horizontally will be much stronger, the file for that is below.








Bandsaw table Insert Inca Euro260 V2 by uuusseerrrrr


This is an updated version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3628379 The old version (see white part in picture) had legs that snapped off easily, now there are separate legs which have to be assembled after printing




www.thingiverse.com




And that's what i'll be printing when i get my printer, just wish i could print the fret saw guides... well i could but they'd melt in about 2 blade revolutions


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Gazz292 said:


> Ahh, didnt think about if that bit of what look like ally C channel was to stick in the square hole the blade block goes, or is just there for shipping,
> 
> I presume the grove in the 'bearing' will be ~3mm deep, as that's how wide the fret saw blade is,
> 
> I can't find any other pictures of the fret guides, i'm assuming it's got a small bearing and a hardened steel 'guide' shrunk on it, but it may be all one piece,


I’ll have a hunt around for my set sometime soon an take some pictures, AFIK they are with the belt sanding accessories. 
The bearing is the steel shaft running in the aluminium blocks, the groove guides are fitted to the shaft in someway. The aluminium blocks fit into the horizontal blade guide positions.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

BillK said:


> I use skateboard bearings, dirt cheap but although they're sealed they do get rough-running after a while.


The correct ones are cheap enough, any bearing supply house has them they are

608ZZ1MC3E
mine have lasted about 50 years.
total cost today £0.000273p per day or £0.10 per year


----------



## samhay

sometimewoodworker said:


> The bearing is the steel shaft running in the aluminium blocks, the groove guides are fitted to the shaft in someway. The aluminium blocks fit into the horizontal blade guide positions.



I stand corrected. Thanks.


----------



## Gazz292

i am amazed that how it works too, 
i'd think that the guide will be spinning all the time you are cutting, so would have expected a ball bearing in there, 
But i guess inca knew what they were doing when they made it, that means the whole guide might be one piece, the bit that looks like a bearing and the shaft. 

definately opens up other methods of reproducing them then,


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Gazz292 said:


> But i guess inca knew what they were doing when they made it, that means the whole guide might be one piece, the bit that looks like a bearing and the shaft.


They are, or are manufactured as 2 then fitted together as one


----------



## BillK

sometimewoodworker said:


> The correct ones are cheap enough, any bearing supply house has them they are
> 
> 608ZZ1MC3E
> mine have lasted about 50 years.
> total cost today £0.000273p per day or £0.10 per year



My originals were well shot. I used NSK at first but didn't last particularly long. A pack of 8 skate bearings delivered is the same as one NSK before post. £4 five years ago and still got some left, thats OK by me.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

BillK said:


> My originals were well shot. I used NSK at first but didn't last particularly long. A pack of 8 skate bearings delivered is the same as one NSK before post. £4 five years ago and still got some left, thats OK by me.


What has been the failure mode? 
I appreciate that my saw hasn’t had heavy use but the bearing I just changed was 50 years in use before it stopped rotating easily and so started getting grooves cut into it.


----------



## BillK

I got the bandsaw as a nice gift from a neighbour, it'd been well-used but sat for years homing spiders and covered in dust. Just needed a good old clean up, the guides smoothing and new bearings, the ones on it wouldn't turn and had grooves/nicks. The skate bearings get a bit stiff to turn after a while, not sure how long really, it never seems bad enough to be a real problem I just check when replacing a blade. It gets used every day just about although I make guitars so it's not sawing all day kind of thing. But the work that thing's done without a complaint or a thing going wrong.. (touch wood..)


----------



## Gazz292

I Went back to the guy i bought the bandsaw off today, as he was selling a nice fobco star pillar drill that i just had to have,

He gave me the original sales leaflet for the bandsaw that he's found along with the dust extractor hose adaptor that takes it upto a 4 inch /100mm hose.

In it is a photo of the fret guides in place on the saw.... they are a hell of a lot smaller than i thought they were, until now i'd only seen the picture on the inca website selling them, so thought they were about the size of the rear thrust bearing for the blade, hence why i thought they had bearing in them.





Turns out they are about the size of the thumb screws used to tighten the blade guides in place.



My 3mm blades arrived the other day, along with a selection of other sizes up to 19mm,
In the photo the 3mm blades are on the right, then a 9mm i think, that's sat on the 19mm blade, and there's some 12mm blades in there too, the rusty ones i got with the bandsaw... need to clean the rust off them sometime.



Here's the sales leaflet too if anyone's interested,


----------



## John Brown

A client of mine has a 3D printer, so I asked him to print me a table insert. It's the one with separate legs, and just got delivered. I take it the legs fit from underneath, rather than being inserted from the top and pushed down? Either way there will need to be some finessing with a scalpel. 
Also, assuming they're printed in PLA, or whatever the baseline filament is, what glue would anyone recommend?


----------



## Gazz292

i would imagine the legs fit from underneath, i haven't got my 3D printer yet to print some to try (still being built at the prusa factory, and it's for xmas... and i can't get to my local hackspace to use theirs atm) 

Super glue is best for pla.

The bloke who designed the insert says it might sit a little proud of the table, so just sand it a little to be level... i guess that's preferable to the insert being too low to start with, tho i'd want to get it just right, and i will faff about printing different designs and altering them a little when i get my printer.


----------



## city17

I've printed the insert, and haven't found the need to glue the legs. Just need to be a bit careful when actually putting it in place on the bandsaw.


----------



## John Brown

Ok. Thanks


----------



## sssamuel

Seeing that this thread is alive and kicking after 10 years(impressive), I might as well ask here rather than starting a new one.
reading this lively thread actually was one of the reasons I decided to purchase a Euro260 

so I did, and it's in good condition, from 1995, Made in France. The only complaint I have is that the tracking of the blade is not that stable.
I bought several new blades and they all move in and out on the wheels when it is running.
I can adjust so it moves further out on the tyres, but it doesn't change the tracking instability

Looking as them spinning without any saw band mounted, it looks like they are stable and the tyres are smooth, intact and not wobbly.

has anyone else had a similar issue?

/samuel


----------



## John Brown

Gosh! Is it really ten years since I bought my £50 bandsaw!


----------



## sometimewoodworker

sssamuel said:


> Seeing that this thread is alive and kicking after 10 years(impressive), I might as well ask here rather than starting a new one.
> reading this lively thread actually was one of the reasons I decided to purchase a Euro260
> 
> so I did, and it's in good condition, from 1995, Made in France. The only complaint I have is that the tracking of the blade is not that stable.
> I bought several new blades and they all move in and out on the wheels when it is running.
> I can adjust so it moves further out on the tyres, but it doesn't change the tracking instability
> 
> Looking as them spinning without any saw band mounted, it looks like they are stable and the tyres are smooth, intact and not wobbly.
> 
> has anyone else had a similar issue?
> 
> /samuel


I have had the first instance of that happening, I suspect tat new tyres may be the answer.


----------



## J.A.Olsson

Instead of creating a new thread I figured it’s better to use this one.
I recently found myself in need of resawing some oak and, after realizing that my inherited Inca could be up to the task, I ordered a ¾” wide 4 tpi blade. 
I have now spent many hours trying to get the blade to track nicely, or at all.

I know that the previous blade tracked equally on both wheels before I started, that means they are co-planar, right? My procedure is as follows:
I move the guides out of the way, put the blade on and tighten the tensioning screw to a little over “five” (or until the tension feels right).
To avoid having the blade slipping off completely, I adjust the tilt so that the blade wants to “derail” towards the blade guides. After that I carefully turn the adjustment knob to move the tracking forward on the wheels. I turn the knob about 0.5 mm, spin the wheels manually 10-15 turns and adjust again. After several iterations without any change, all of a sudden the blade starts to change tracking and goes completely off the front of the wheels.

I have tried turning the knob even less (not even visible to an outside observer, but I can feel it move). And still, once the blade starts to change its tracking, it will travel all the way off the front of the wheel.

By the way, it's not only the new blade that gives me a headache. The previous, very functional blades does not track either.

Is this normal? Does a blade change take a couple of days of careful adjusting? Any help would be immensely appreciated!


----------



## BillK

Maybe it needs a new tyre/s. Mine was just doing the same thing, I made a top tyre from some 3mm neoprene rubber from fleabay. Cut a bit less than wheel circumference, superglue the ends with greaseproof paper wrapped around to stop it sticking to the bench. It's sat in place fine without any glue - it took far longer to clean the old glue off the wheel than sort out the new tyre. The rubber was £4.50 for 5 metres (it's probably available all over the place but the item number for mine is 261725403492, in case thats any use).
It was a bit over-wide so I trimmed it in place on the wheel, with one those blades you get for paint or paper strippers.


----------



## John Brown

I just lent mine to my neighbour. Came back with the blade tracking perfectly. 
Probably not a good long term solution, as he only borrowed it because his Record had shredded a drive belt.


----------



## sssamuel

Hi J.A Olsson!
I have the exaxt same experience about the tracking, that after super-carefully adjusting it, the blade suddenly travels all the way to the front.
and before that, I can adjust the tilt knob pretty much without any kind of movement.

I managed once to, by chance, get it exactly like I wanted it (with the teeth slightly outside the wheel) but then I slipped on a new saw band/blade, and it was again, virtually impossible to get to that sweetspot again... argh..

/samuel


----------



## Ttrees

Are you guys tensioning the blade to track it?
What I mean is...
When the tracking bolt is in the correct position, and turning the wheels by hand...
If a blade is not tensioned correctly, it will dive into the thrust guides, so 
you must tension it well before turning the wheels, or back off your guides.
I presume it is the same scenario as on my larger machine which has flat tires.

Tom


----------



## Mal-110

I have been trying to find an INCA bandsaw, for the last three months. I missed out on two on EBAY recently. So I might as well ask if anyone relishes the idea of selling one?
I thought I would ask.

Malcolm


----------



## Droogs

@Mal-110 i would suggest putting an ad in the wanted section of the forum










Wanted







www.ukworkshop.co.uk


----------



## J.A.Olsson

BillK said:


> Maybe it needs a new tyre/s. Mine was just doing the same thing, I made a top tyre from some 3mm neoprene rubber from fleabay. Cut a bit less than wheel circumference, superglue the ends with greaseproof paper wrapped around to stop it sticking to the bench. It's sat in place fine without any glue - it took far longer to clean the old glue off the wheel than sort out the new tyre. The rubber was £4.50 for 5 metres (it's probably available all over the place but the item number for mine is 261725403492, in case thats any use).
> It was a bit over-wide so I trimmed it in place on the wheel, with one those blades you get for paint or paper strippers.


Thank you for the tip! I just placed an order, hopefully it will do the trick.



John Brown said:


> I just lent mine to my neighbour. Came back with the blade tracking perfectly.
> Probably not a good long term solution, as he only borrowed it because his Record had shredded a drive belt.


You think any neighbour will do, or does it have to be a specific model? 


sssamuel said:


> Hi J.A Olsson!
> I have the exaxt same experience about the tracking, that after super-carefully adjusting it, the blade suddenly travels all the way to the front.
> and before that, I can adjust the tilt knob pretty much without any kind of movement.
> 
> I managed once to, by chance, get it exactly like I wanted it (with the teeth slightly outside the wheel) but then I slipped on a new saw band/blade, and it was again, virtually impossible to get to that sweetspot again... argh..
> 
> /samuel


"Nice" to hear that someone else has the same problem. It is very frustrating and makes me question my whole existence. I will let you know when my little bandsaw is up and running again! 


Ttrees said:


> Are you guys tensioning the blade to track it?
> What I mean is...
> When the tracking bolt is in the correct position, and turning the wheels by hand...
> If a blade is not tensioned correctly, it will dive into the thrust guides, so
> you must tension it well before turning the wheels, or back off your guides.
> I presume it is the same scenario as on my larger machine which has flat tires.
> 
> Tom


I can't speak for Samuel, but I have put sufficient tension on the blade before trying to adjust its tracking. I have some experience with other bandsaws so I hope my judgement of "sufficient" is correct!


----------



## Ttrees

Mal-110 said:


> I have been trying to find an INCA bandsaw, for the last three months. I missed out on two on EBAY recently. So I might as well ask if anyone relishes the idea of selling one?
> I thought I would ask.
> 
> Malcolm


Not getting your hopes up but...
Custard is giving a broken one away, and I don't think he has got a taker for it yet.


----------



## Mal-110

Droogs said:


> i would suggest putting an ad in the wanted section of the forum


Thanks Droogs. I did try but apparently I don't have sufficient privileges. I don't have enough posts to sell but I thought I had enough to put in a wanted ad in. Then I got waylaid as I had a call to say my Western Red Cedar was ready at the woodyard. So off I went.


----------



## John Brown

Just got round to fitting the 3D printed table insert. Doesn't seem to sit proud, but my 1/2 inch blade just catches. I've no doubt that will sort itself out in time.


----------



## MusicMan

You probably know this, but note that the Inca wheels are flat, not crowned, and the usual youtube instructions for having the blade tracking on the top of the crown do not apply. The teeth should be just hanging over the front edge of the drive wheel and similar on the lower wheel. If it then falls off the wheel (when tensioned) I think the wheels have to be misaligned, or bumpy (need new tyres, easily found).


----------



## sssamuel

J.A.Olsson said:


> Thank you for the tip! I just placed an order, hopefully it will do the trick.
> 
> 
> You think any neighbour will do, or does it have to be a specific model?
> 
> "Nice" to hear that someone else has the same problem. It is very frustrating and makes me question my whole existence. I will let you know when my little bandsaw is up and running again!
> 
> I can't speak for Samuel, but I have put sufficient tension on the blade before trying to adjust its tracking. I have some experience with other bandsaws so I hope my judgement of "sufficient" is correct!



Hi!

Actually, the local company in sweden I ordered my saw bands from just contacted me and said that they had confirmed a production error which resulted in slightly misaligned blade welding. So I guess that was my problem for all three blades, and when I get the new replacement blades later this week I hope to get perfect and stable tracking!

cheers!

//Samuel


----------



## John Brown

When I bought my Inca, about 12 years ago, it seemed to be missing a part. It has the lever that tightens on the semi-circular piece under the table, that you slacken to tilt the table, but there was another M10(?) stud sticking through the other slot on the same piece. I have always had a finger-tight M10 full nut there, but today I was thinking about trying to make something better. Trouble is, I don't know what the original part looks like. So I dug out an old PDF of an exploded 342.186, and I can't actually see anything that matches, I cant even see the other threaded stud. Anyone got any pics?


----------



## powertools

I have an Inca bandsaw that I purchased new more years ago than I care to remember and is in original unmodified condition. I am more than happy to help I assume that you want a photo underneath the rear of the table. I will take one in the morning and post it.


----------



## John Brown

Thanks!


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> When I bought my Inca, about 12 years ago, it seemed to be missing a part. It has the lever that tightens on the semi-circular piece under the table, that you slacken to tilt the table, but there was another M10(?) stud sticking through the other slot on the same piece. I have always had a finger-tight M10 full nut there, but today I was thinking about trying to make something better. Trouble is, I don't know what the original part looks like. So I dug out an old PDF of an exploded 342.186, and I can't actually see anything that matches, I cant even see the other threaded stud. Anyone got any pics?


There is a round guide that fits in the table angle guide then 2 1/2 nuts that lock onto the thread that allows the table to pivot with 2 guide points.










I should probably have blown the dust of first 
If that’s not clear I can dust it off and retake.


----------



## scholar

I replaced the two locknuts on the upper guide point spigot with a bristol type locking lever - this does the same job as the original lever on the lower guide point, but the arm can be indexed around out of the way as required.

With the locknuts I found that the table was difficult to get fixed just right as well as allowing smooth tilting - anyway, the bristol lever works fine.

Incidentally, I always found the tilting action to be a bit graunchy, as it is aluminium sliding on aluminium - I have recently improved this a lot with some (WD40) lithium grease spray.

Cheers


----------



## John Brown

Thanks everybody. I can see that I'm missing the collar(?) That sits underneath the two half nuts as well.
All my Bristol levers are male, as I recall. Oh well, I've got by for 12 years... I'll just have to keep an eye out for something I can repurpose.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> Thanks everybody. I can see that I'm missing the collar(?) That sits underneath the two half nuts as well.
> All my Bristol levers are male, as I recall. Oh well, I've got by for 12 years... I'll just have to keep an eye out for something I can repurpose.


It is a trivially easy item for anyone with a metal lathe to make. You can get it made out of virtually any suitably hard dense material like delrin. I can’t see any need to use a locking leaver, mine has been in use for about 50 years in the way I showed.


----------



## John Brown

sometimewoodworker said:


> It is a trivially easy item for anyone with a metal lathe to make. You can get it made out of virtually any suitably hard dense material like delrin. I can’t see any need to use a locking leaver, mine has been in use for about 50 years in the way I showed.


So now I have to buy a lathe so that I can use my £50 bandsaw? This woodworking hobby is getting expensive!!


----------



## MusicMan

John Brown said:


> So now I have to buy a lathe so that I can use my £50 bandsaw? This woodworking hobby is getting expensive!!



Nooooo, you just have to ask on here if anyone on the forum could kindly make you one if you supply dimensions. A lot of us have metal lathes, and maybe Inca saws as well.


----------



## John Brown

MusicMan said:


> Nooooo, you just have to ask on here if anyone on the forum could kindly make you one if you supply dimensions. A lot of us have metal lathes, and maybe Inca saws as well.


Sorry, I was attempting humour...


----------



## Bm101

Sometime wood worker, what's the round bar attached to the nearside of the table used for please? Adding an extension? Not seen it before.


----------



## John Brown

I think it's a stop. I have one somewhere.


----------



## Bm101

Thanks John. That makes more sense.


----------



## powertools

As said the round bar has a stop that slides along it and can be locked in any position.
I had a look at my saw and it is the same as the pictures already posted.
The part that you have missing would seem to be nothing more than a spacer perhaps you could just grind down some washers to fit.


----------



## John Brown

powertools said:


> As said the round bar has a stop that slides along it and can be locked in any position.
> I had a look at my saw and it is the same as the pictures already posted.
> The part that you have missing would seem to be nothing more than a spacer perhaps you could just grind down some washers to fit.


Thanks. Yes, I found a couple of washers that fit without grinding.


----------



## John Brown

Talking of stops, my Inca is the one with the start/ stop box on the far side. I'm thinking if adding a NO emergency stop button to the base. Any reason why this is a bad idea?


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Bm101 said:


> Sometime wood worker, what's the round bar attached to the nearside of the table used for please? Adding an extension? Not seen it before.


as mentioned it is the table part of a stop, if you want I can tale a picture of the complete unit.

For anyone else, if you have the extension bar (right angled aluminium) that fits on to the mitre fence I would appreciate knowing the exact dimensions and a picture of the shape that fits onto the mitre fence. A dimensioned PDF would be even better. That piece is the only one that disappeared in shipping, I even have the flag stop so all I need is the bar.


----------



## John Brown

sometimewoodworker said:


> as mentioned it is the table part of a stop, if you want I can tale a picture of the complete unit.
> 
> For anyone else, if you have the extension bar (right angled aluminium) that fits on to the mitre fence I would appreciate knowing the exact dimensions and a picture of the shape that fits onto the mitre fence. A dimensioned PDF would be even better. That piece is the only one that disappeared in shipping, I even have the flag stop so all I need is the bar.


Do you mean this?


sometimewoodworker said:


> as mentioned it is the table part of a stop, if you want I can tale a picture of the complete unit.
> 
> For anyone else, if you have the extension bar (right angled aluminium) that fits on to the mitre fence I would appreciate knowing the exact dimensions and a picture of the shape that fits onto the mitre fence. A dimensioned PDF would be even better. That piece is the only one that disappeared in shipping, I even have the flag stop so all I need is the bar.


Do you mean this?


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> Do you mean this?
> 
> Do you mean this?


No, it’s the right angle aluminium bar that takes the flag stop that fits on the opposite side to that one, that one has a locking lever. the one I need goes onto the black ones pins.


----------



## John Brown

Sorry, I'm not sure what it is you're looking for, but I don't think I have it.


----------



## Bm101

This is what I have Jerome, on top of John's angled head.
Happy to measure any to the best of my ability.





Still haven't got round to getting a zero clearence insert! BillnextDoor actually owns a plastic printing company. 'Hmmmmm.....'


----------



## John Brown

Hmmm. I'm not sure that I have one of those. Now I have a burning aluminium-angle-with-a-flag-stop envy.
I'll have to find my circle cutting jig and take some pictures. Or my belt sanding accessories...


----------



## powertools

Photo of stop in place.






I dont have the angle with the flag stop.


----------



## HamsterJam

These are the bits I got with mine...


----------



## HamsterJam

And the detail of the table tilting mechanism.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Bm101 said:


> This is what I have Jerome, on top of John's angled head.
> Happy to measure any to the best of my ability.
> View attachment 102037
> 
> 
> Still haven't got round to getting a zero clearence insert! BillnextDoor actually owns a plastic printing company. 'Hmmmmm.....'


@Bm101 and @HamsterJam You both have got the piece that went missing so measurements of it would be great, length isn’t important but thickness and width if the faces are, it is almost certainly a metric piece so millimetre measurements are probably better, thanks

if you can also get an impression of the end that is down on the bench @Bm101 (or table @HamsterJam ) that has the small slots where it fits onto the mitre gauge. Maybe charcoal on the face then pressed onto paper might work for that





PS. I also need a link to a supplier of replacement tyres as I think that mine are due. PU may be preferable, comments welcome, given the lifetime of these (over 40 years) they will probably be the only ones I ever need.


----------



## Welsh Brian

*Inca Machines <[email protected]>*
Sun, Aug 23, 2020, 6:40 PM
 
to me



This was the reply I got from Inca last year - hope it helps



Hi
Yes, we can do that for you, see the link below to order the part

Inca | Woodworking Machinery & Accessories

Regards

Mike
INCA


----------



## John Brown

I bought some orange PU tyres s few years back on eBay. I bought them in the US, and had them delivered to one of my BILs, prior to the annual pilgrimage. I was a bit worried about fitting them, but in the end it was a doddle. Can't say there was a dramatic improvement in anything, though. Blades seem to be the deciding factor.


----------



## John Brown

I was just looking at the Inca spares earlier, I reckon I might benefit from a new tensioning spring. Wow! Those prices are astronomical. Who'd pay £30 for a star knob(settle down).


----------



## John Brown

My envy is gone. I have found the aluminium angle with the flag stop!


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> I was just looking at the Inca spares earlier, I reckon I might benefit from a new tensioning spring. Wow! Those prices are astronomical. Who'd pay £30 for a star knob(settle down).


I had the same situation about a year ago. With where I live what I did was to take the old spring with me to a local hardware shop that had an enormous variety of springs found one that though it was way too long had the correct diameter and wire size, cut it to a bit longer than the original, probably 5~10%, and fitted it. It may have cost about £1.00 for two springs.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Welsh Brian said:


> *Inca Machines <[email protected]>*
> Sun, Aug 23, 2020, 6:40 PM
> to me
> 
> 
> 
> This was the reply I got from Inca last year - hope it helps
> 
> 
> 
> Hi
> Yes, we can do that for you, see the link below to order the part
> 
> Inca | Woodworking Machinery & Accessories
> 
> Regards
> 
> Mike
> INCA


Thanks for that, I’ll give it a go and see if they will ship over here, do a not outrageous price.


----------



## John Brown

In case anyone's interested, here's the circle jig, the sanding belt kit, and a couple of things I'm guessing replace the guide blocks for the ultra small blades. They were in the sanding belt box...


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> I bought some orange PU tyres s few years back on eBay. I bought them in the US, and had them delivered to one of my BILs, prior to the annual pilgrimage. I was a bit worried about fitting them, but in the end it was a doddle. Can't say there was a dramatic improvement in anything, though. Blades seem to be the deciding factor.


How did you know you needed them?

I suspect that I may as my current toughsaw blade won’t track under load, it’s possibly the blade but I think I’ve had it on the saw before, I just sharpened it (a trivial job that improves even new blades though it takes a little time) and put it on the saw.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> In case anyone's interested, here's the circle jig, the sanding belt kit, and a couple of things I'm guessing replace the guide blocks for the ultra small blades. They were in the sanding belt box...


You are correct on the guides they are for fretsaw blades and those blades track in the centre of the wheel. 

Now I have circle cutting jig envy and plastic insert envy, The circle jig is the only one I didn’t get when I got the saw.


----------



## John Brown

How did I know I needed new tyres? I suppose the original ones looked a bit ratty.


----------



## Bm101

I'll be in the shed tomorrow I'll do what I can for the measurements Sww.


----------



## powertools

I have never seen an original Inca circle cutting jig but I did make my own.


----------



## John Brown

Seems to work ok!


----------



## HamsterJam

Bm101 said:


> I'll be in the shed tomorrow I'll do what I can for the measurements Sww.


Oops sorry BM. Didn’t see that and just measured mine.


----------



## HamsterJam

sometimewoodworker said:


> @Bm101 and @HamsterJam You both have got the piece that went missing so measurements of it would be great, length isn’t important but thickness and width if the faces are, it is almost certainly a metric piece so millimetre measurements are probably better, thanks
> 
> if you can also get an impression of the end that is down on the bench @Bm101 (or table @HamsterJam ) that has the small slots where it fits onto the mitre gauge. Maybe charcoal on the face then pressed onto paper might work for that
> View attachment 102056



Here you go....


----------



## sometimewoodworker

HamsterJam said:


> Here you go....


Thanks for that @HamsterJam sorry to bother you but, Could you edit your post please to change the pictures from thumbnails to full sized pictures, the forum has a wonderful bug where thumbnails do not render



so this is all I see.
this has been reported and the answer was to post as *Full image *


----------



## HamsterJam

sometimewoodworker said:


> Thanks for that @HamsterJam sorry to bother you but, Could you edit your post please to change the pictures from thumbnails to full sized pictures, the forum has a wonderful bug where thumbnails do not renderView attachment 102148
> 
> so this is all I see.
> this has been reported and the answer was to post as *Full image *
> [/QUOT



Did that work?


----------



## sometimewoodworker

HamsterJam said:


> Did that work?


@HamsterJam Yes thanks, though I think (haven’t checked all yet) that you may have put several in more than once  I’ve just come in from the shop and checking in my phone.


----------



## HamsterJam

sometimewoodworker said:


> @HamsterJam Yes thanks, though I think (haven’t checked all yet) that you may have put several in more than once  I’ve just come in from the shop and checking in my phone.


Yep - looks like there are duplicates 
Should be ten unique pictures.


----------



## Bm101

Excellenyt HJ. Saved me a job.


----------



## John Brown

The part I don't have is the aluminium angle that the tip fence connects to. When I bought the saw it had a piece of angle that had been botched into service, and I have since made a slightly better one, but I can't find any unequal angle of an appropriate size. I would be grateful for the exact dimensions of the proper part. Although I'm thinking that I could maybe find something a bit too high, and use spacers between the underside of the table and the angle.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> The part I don't have is the aluminium angle that the tip fence connects to. When I bought the saw it had a piece of angle that had been botched into service, and I have since made a slightly better one, but I can't find any unequal angle of an appropriate size. I would be grateful for the exact dimensions of the proper part. Although I'm thinking that I could maybe find something a bit too high, and use spacers between the underside of the table and the angle.


It’s a complex aluminium casting and @Bm101 has a picture in this thread, it’s only useful if your stock is thin enough that the guides need to be very near the table. You don’t need an unequal angle regular angle it perfectly ok


----------



## John Brown

sometimewoodworker said:


> It’s a complex aluminium casting and @Bm101 has a picture in this thread, it’s only useful if your stock is thin enough that the guides need to be very near the table. You don’t need an unequal angle regular angle it perfectly ok


No, not that bit. I have that. I talking about the rail that the rip fence slides along.


----------



## Bm101

I'm in for the evening John but I'll measure mine tomorrow.
While we're on the riding the crest of the Inca wave, does anyone cut metal on their saw? I'm talking up to 4mm unhardened O1 flat stock. I'm prepared to buy another blade and it woud be for straight cuts, very gentle curves possibly.


----------



## John Brown

Bm101 said:


> I'm in for the evening John but I'll measure mine tomorrow.
> While we're on the riding the crest of the Inca wave, does anyone cut metal on their saw? I'm talking up to 4mm unhardened O1 flat stock. I'm prepared to buy another blade and it woud be for straight cuts, very gentle curves possibly.


I've only ever cut metal accidentally on mine, but I guess it could work with the right blade.


----------



## MusicMan

It goes too fast for metal, really need half the speed. Might be OK on aluminium with care, but I think it would be far too dangerous on steel.


----------



## Bm101

When I started out (as opposed to still starting out  ) I bought an evolution rage scm saw John. One hundred nicker with stand included and a multi material blade on it. Good job too because on my first angled cut i took part of the base off lol. Great saw for the money but when a guy local to me offered a far better saw at a good price I bit his finger off. When I went to pick it up I noticed he'd done the same. 'Ahh... I see you've nicked the frame there. Easy to do I suppose.'
Didn't tell him I'd also done it of course.


----------



## Bm101

MusicMan said:


> It goes too fast for metal, really need half the speed. Might be OK on aluminium with care, but I think it would be far too dangerous on steel.


Thank you. Appreciated MM. Wishful thinking I suppose to try and defeat my wonky hacksaw skills. Oh well.


----------



## John Brown

MusicMan said:


> It goes too fast for metal, really need half the speed. Might be OK on aluminium with care, but I think it would be far too dangerous on steel.


Might be doable if you have a belt drive version. Or VFD? I think my motors under 0.5 kW.


----------



## Bm101

I dunno John, MusicMan's word is good enough for my amateur hour experience to take heed. I don't cut enough blanks for it to be an issue either way.


----------



## John Brown

Bm101 said:


> I dunno John, MusicMan's word is good enough for my amateur hour experience to take heed. I don't cut enough blanks for it to be an issue either way.


I wasn't disputing... Just saying that with a VFD you could achieve half speed, or less and seeing as how the motor is fairly small, a VFD could be had for under £100.

I bought an Evolution hand held circular saw for my shed build, as the little old Skil I've had for 15 years didn't have the depth of cut. I always thought of Evolution as B&Q rubbish, but I've been impressed. They claim it'll cut through metal, but again, I've only done so by accident.


----------



## John Brown

From a quick Google, it looks like a VFD may not be the solution. Ignore me...


----------



## HamsterJam

Bm101 said:


> While we're on the riding the crest of the Inca wave, does anyone cut metal on their saw? I'm talking up to 4mm unhardened O1 flat stock. I'm prepared to buy another blade and it woud be for straight cuts, very gentle curves possibly.


Only used mine to cut wood plus a uPVC door panel once.


----------



## Bm101

Just for the record I've used the evolution to cut through 4mm hardened box section. I was being careful and cautious on the approach but to be fair, it chewed it up like it was _nearly_ nothing.


----------



## John Brown

Bm101 said:


> Just for the record I've used the evolution to cut through 4mm hardened box section. I was being careful and cautious on the approach but to be fair, it chewed it up like it was _nearly_ nothing.


Interesting. Shame I can't fit one of those blades in my "table saw". I think they're an incompatible centre hole size.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> No, not that bit. I have that. I talking about the rail that the rip fence slides along.


I understand now. the part you are talking about is not aluminium. It’s steel. It does have two slots cut into it. it’s 7 o’clock in the morning here and the cat & kitten just woke us up. I’ll take some pictures soon.

I’m up. The socket cap screws have custom top hat or flanged washers that enlarge the diameter and stop the rail bearing on the steel bar.











The uncut back slot allows the rail to be swung out without taking out either of the socket cap screws taking them out gives a great opportunity for loss of the washers.













the additional 4 pictures are posted from my iPhone, they show that the bar has various positions that it can be locked in. 
my guess is that it’s steel to reinforce the split table.
If you need measurements let us know.


----------



## John Brown

sometimewoodworker said:


> I understand now. the part you are talking about is not aluminium. It’s steel. It does have two slots cut into it. it’s 7 o’clock in the morning here and the cat & kitten just woke us up. I’ll take some pictures soon.
> 
> I’m up. The socket cap screws have custom top hat or flanged washers that enlarge the diameter and stop the rail bearing on the steel bar.
> View attachment 102259
> View attachment 102260
> View attachment 102261
> 
> The uncut back slot allows the rail to be swung out without taking out either of the socket cap screws taking them out gives a great opportunity for loss of the washers.View attachment 102269
> View attachment 102268
> View attachment 102267
> View attachment 102266
> 
> 
> the additional 4 pictures are posted from my iPhone, they show that the bar has various positions that it can be locked in.
> my guess is that it’s steel to reinforce the split table.
> If you need measurements let us know.


Thanks.
I would appreciate measurements, although it looks like a weekend's worth of filing, and that's assuming I could find the right sized angle iron to start with.


----------



## HamsterJam

sometimewoodworker said:


> I understand now. the part you are talking about is not aluminium. It’s steel. It does have two slots cut into it. it’s 7 o’clock in the morning here and the cat & kitten just woke us up. I’ll take some pictures soon.
> 
> I’m up. The socket cap screws have custom top hat or flanged washers that enlarge the diameter and stop the rail bearing on the steel bar.
> View attachment 102259
> View attachment 102260
> View attachment 102261
> 
> The uncut back slot allows the rail to be swung out without taking out either of the socket cap screws taking them out gives a great opportunity for loss of the washers.View attachment 102269
> View attachment 102268
> View attachment 102267
> View attachment 102266
> 
> 
> the additional 4 pictures are posted from my iPhone, they show that the bar has various positions that it can be locked in.
> my guess is that it’s steel to reinforce the split table.
> If you need measurements let us know.



Hi STWW
That’s interesting. I don’t have the bit circled in yellow (looks like a stop for the fence?) and I’m pretty sure the bolts retaining the steel fence rail have the same type of knobs as the fence and stop so no tools are required for a blade change. 
What date is your machine. Think mine is 1997.


----------



## MusicMan

Yes, if you have a belt drive version and can put another pulley on to reduce the speed by at least 2x, and of course get a fine-tooth blade and take it gently, you might succeed on aluminium or brass. I might risk that, but then I am originally a metallurgist and have done plenty of machining,

I don't think a VFD works on a single phase motor, does it?


----------



## MusicMan

The circled bit in yellow is the fine adjustment. This was an optional extra. You get the fence roughly right then clamp it on the fine adjustor knob, use the horizontal knurly bit to set the fence finely, then clamp on the main fence knob.

This has really been a useful thread for people to find all the bits and bobs around the Inca saw. BTW Skinner Dessigns do a good aftermarket dust extractor (for when the table is not tilted).


----------



## sometimewoodworker

MusicMan said:


> I don't think a VFD works on a single phase motor, does it?


It doesn’t. It’s for 3 phrase only


----------



## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> Thanks.
> I would appreciate measurements, although it looks like a weekend's worth of filing, and that's assuming I could find the right sized angle iron to start with.


I doubt that filing would be a reasonable option. You really need someone with a milling machine. The item you circled is a micro adjustment addition.


----------



## John Brown

sometimewoodworker said:


> I doubt that filing would be a reasonable option. You really need someone with a milling machine.


Still saving up for the lathe....

I'll probably just keep using my homemade aluminium rail. It's not perfect, but it works.


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## sometimewoodworker

Additionally pics


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## ekynoxe

Hi everyone,

I know this is an old thread but it seems to be THE place for information about an Inca 342-186.

I'm the proud owner of one of them, and I've started the cleanup process, and I noticed that the blade guides are in poor state.
Judging by the state of the guide bearings, the previous owner didn't really deal with that area of the saw very well.

Shame as the rest of it is in great condition, and I even have the mitre gauge.

Looking at photos of other machines, I don't see a similar part where the holder of one of the guide blocks is "open". Even the incamachine website part is different: Inca | Woodworking Machinery & Accessories

Sadly for me, both guides are bent at the "open" block holder, and one of them is actually cracked.

I've got some new bearings coming, but I wonder if there is a place to check for new guide assemblies that is *not* the inca website. At £75 a piece, it's very pricy!

Thanks a bunch for all the info on this thread the last 10 years, it's going to be very useful to reassemble my inca!


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## John Brown

The bearing are a standard size. Available for skates or skateboards, I believe. As mentioned elsewhere, I bought a pack of 8 for about £5 some years back from the sadly missed Clas Olsen.
I doubt you'll find the holders for the graphite(?) blocks anywhere else, but maybe you could fix them. Must have taken some force to split that one! Are you sure you can't bend it back, maybe braze it? It looks too clean to have split, and I'd expect a split to start at a corner, although I'm probably wrong. Whatever, I can't see that there is much stress in that direction in normal operation.
I'll try to take a look at mine tomorrow, maybe there's a gap there be design.


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## John Brown

Ok, just read more carefully and enlarged the pics. I see what you mean now about the crack.
Looks like someone went crazy with the hex key to do that...
No doubt someone with better metalwork skills than me will be along shortly with sensible advice. The genuine Inca spares are really pricey. My bandsaw only cost me £50, so 75 for a guide would be madness.


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## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> I doubt you'll find the holders for the graphite(?) blocks anywhere else, but maybe you could fix them.


the original guides blocks are steel.


John Brown said:


> My bandsaw only cost me £50, so 75 for a guide would be madness.


madness is comparing the cost of a replacement part, they are in limited supply, to the price you paid for a second hand machine.

if the only faulty part is £75 and the machine cost £50. Then the real question is. *Is a fully working machine worth £125? *Since my answer to that is, *of course £125 is a OK price* given the tat that is sold for more than that. You got lucky with the price you paid, the bandsaw in good working condition is worth at least double to 3 times the price you paid. However you may think it too much.

Now that doesn’t mean that you need to pay that much if you have the skill (or know someone with the skill) to fabricate a repair, just that comparing the cost to you of the machine to parts needed isn't useful.


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## sometimewoodworker

ekynoxe said:


> Shame as the rest of it is in great condition, and I even have the mitre gauge.


You do realise that the extension section you have for the mitre gauge means that at the moment you have the gauge on the wrong side of the machine, don’t you?

Also the main previous owner had no idea how to setup the guides as they had destroyed the thrust/back bearings and used the back of the holder as a guide.


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## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> Are you sure you can't bend it back, maybe braze it? It looks too clean to have split, and I'd expect a split to start at a corner, although I'm probably wrong. Whatever, I can't see that there is much stress in that direction in normal operation.


It looks as if the user that did the damage was a gorilla, and by the other damage didn’t know or care how to set all 3 guides. 

My guide holders do not have the open section so even gorilla strength wouldn’t split them, they are almost certainly an older version than yours.

The guides are cast so bending will not work. It’s worthwhile seeing if it can be brazed, if it can then add a strip of steel as well to strengthen the join. The set screw, that had ridiculous amount of force used on it, only needs to be tight enough to hold the guide in place


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## John Brown

sometimewoodworker said:


> It looks as if the user that did the damage was a gorilla, and by the other damage didn’t know or care how to set all 3 guides.
> 
> My guide holders do not have the open section so even gorilla strength wouldn’t split them, they are almost certainly an older version than yours.
> 
> The guides are cast so bending will not work. It’s worthwhile seeing if it can be brazed, if it can then add a strip of steel as well to strengthen the join. The set screw, that had ridiculous amount of force used on it, only needs to be tight enough to hold the guide in place





sometimewoodworker said:


> the original guides blocks are steel.
> 
> madness is comparing the cost of a replacement part, they are in limited supply, to the price you paid for a second hand machine.
> 
> if the only faulty part is £75 and the machine cost £50. Then the real question is. *Is a fully working machine worth £125? *Since my answer to that is, *of course £125 is a OK price* given the tat that is sold for more than that. You got lucky with the price you paid, the bandsaw in good working condition is worth at least double to 3 times the price you paid. However you may think it too much.
> 
> Now that doesn’t mean that you need to pay that much if you have the skill (or know someone with the skill) to fabricate a repair, just that comparing the cost to you of the machine to parts needed isn't useful.


My saw is fine, thanks.


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## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> My saw is fine, thanks.


But ekynoxe’s saw guides are not


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## John Brown

sometimewoodworker said:


> But ekynoxe’s saw guides are not


Got it. So my musings on the price of new guides are somewhat irrelevant. Just saying.


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## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> Got it. So my musings on the price of new guides are somewhat irrelevant. Just saying.


As in not very relevant to ekynoxe’s problem just a bit. 

My quoting also wasn’t as clear as it could be, but then threads do get a bit confused at times.

The point on sunk costs (price already spent) not being of much (any) relevance to the cost of a repair is still a point that many people overlook when considering if they should go ahead, look for an alternative or just quit. So not necessarily of any relevance to you directly but to the idea in general. My phrasing may have implied something I didn’t intend.


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## ekynoxe

sometimewoodworker said:


> the original guides blocks are steel.
> 
> madness is comparing the cost of a replacement part, they are in limited supply, to the price you paid for a second hand machine.
> 
> if the only faulty part is £75 and the machine cost £50. Then the real question is. *Is a fully working machine worth £125? *Since my answer to that is, *of course £125 is a OK price* given the tat that is sold for more than that. You got lucky with the price you paid, the bandsaw in good working condition is worth at least double to 3 times the price you paid. However you may think it too much.
> 
> Now that doesn’t mean that you need to pay that much if you have the skill (or know someone with the skill) to fabricate a repair, just that comparing the cost to you of the machine to parts needed isn't useful.



This is a fair point. I paid £350 for mine (£50 was John’s), and given the overall condition, is still not a bad price. I hadn’t seen the state of the holders, especially the cracked one. Difficult to do in someone’s garage on the fly.
The saw did run alright at the time.

Just to be clear, I was merely asking the community of really knowledgeable folks you are if there are other purchase options for these guide holders. If not, that’s fine, I’ll buy some replacements.

I can also try to learn how to braze… Lost for lost, there’s something to learn.

that’s the only thing that seems wrong on the machine.


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## ekynoxe

sometimewoodworker said:


> You do realise that the extension section you have for the mitre gauge means that at the moment you have the gauge on the wrong side of the machine, don’t you?



I have everything to learn about this one! Hence joining forums and asking the experienced owners 

All this will become apparent once the machine is cleaned up and rebuilt. I don’t think it needs much.


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## sometimewoodworker

ekynoxe said:


> This is a fair point. I paid £350 for mine (£50 was John’s), and given the overall condition, is still not a bad price. I hadn’t seen the state of the holders, especially the cracked one. Difficult to do in someone’s garage on the fly.
> The saw did run alright at the time.
> 
> Just to be clear, I was merely asking the community of really knowledgeable folks you are if there are other purchase options for these guide holders. If not, that’s fine, I’ll buy some replacements.
> 
> I can also try to learn how to braze… Lost for lost, there’s something to learn.
> 
> that’s the only thing that seems wrong on the machine.



I would suggest that you look around your local area and see if there are any little workshops and ask them if they can do it for you, it’ll probably cost a couple of beers or be free. It’s a tiny job but not one I’d like to try for my first. I’ve done some brazing and welding and because that part is so small it’s very easy to stuff it up if you don’t have the skill.
if you get someone to fix it you can see if they will add in a piece to close the gap, I can see no benefit to it, the earlier machines didn’t have it.

I would consider the price you paid is OK, John’s a lucky (*pipper* this word is going to get a stupid bad language edit it should read b*u****er I have no idea why it chose _pipper_ F*F*S) to get his virtually free. Yours does look in good nick. You may need to replace the tension spring, you won’t know until you start using it. I had to do that with mine, I had no possibility of getting the exact part so I got a longer spring that had the same dimensions & cut it down to fit. It’s probably a bit stiffer than the original but is working perfectly.


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## John Brown

sometimewoodworker said:


> I would suggest that you look around your local area and see if there are any little workshops and ask them if they can do it for you, it’ll probably cost a couple of beers or be free. It’s a tiny job but not one I’d like to try for my first. I’ve done some brazing and welding and because that part is so small it’s very easy to stuff it up if you don’t have the skill.
> if you get someone to fix it you can see if they will add in a piece to close the gap, I can see no benefit to it, the earlier machines didn’t have it.
> 
> I would consider the price you paid is OK, John’s a lucky (*pipper* this word is going to get a stupid bad language edit it should read b*u****er I have no idea why it chose _pipper_ F*F*S) to get his virtually free. Yours does look in good nick. You may need to replace the tension spring, you won’t know until you start using it. I had to do that with mine, I had no possibility of getting the exact part so I got a longer spring that had the same dimensions & cut it down to fit. It’s probably a bit stiffer than the original but is working perfectly.


I would be interested in details of your spring solution. I suspect my spring is in the autumn of its days.


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## bobcat

sometimewoodworker said:


> Green Hammerite was the original colour of mine so you may have just reverted back.  The guide block faces can be smoothed in the same way that you would sharpen a plane, all you need to do is make sure you maintain the original angle, if the sides have been mangled by the holding screws just flatten them in the same way. The guide blocks should be long enough to regrind the faces many times *(lower guides)* and they are reversable.
> 
> The table never slid smoothly. Paste wax almost every where will help. I can probably count the number of times I have tilted my table on the fingers of one hand.  I should probably check mine and disassemble my table (I never have).
> 
> The thrust bearing that is badly scraped and partly ceased will be the top and if you cant get it off then just swap it with the bottom. That one will be in near mint condition. BTW if you do get it off and get a replacement could you give me the detail of the bearing? I should do mine too.
> 
> It isn't clear from your photo the condition of the upper guide bar plate, the one you tighten it against. This should be about 1/4" steel and flat. You can see it in the 3rd photo on my website *here*. If it's not flat then flatten it. & if it's not flat this is probably due to the fact that the original design was for a thin, light aluminium blade guard (on the table in No.10 No.11 No.12) and yours is a later version and steel.
> 
> BTW I see you have an original Elu router table. Do you have the complete router accessory set that it's part of? With the clamps it makes a nice horizontal table.


The bearings for these saws are available from any uk bearing supplier, i have re bearinged many inca machines over the years of repairing woodworking machines all well nearly all bearings are marked with a unique number so it is easy to identify them Regards Bobcat


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## bobcat

The bearings for these saws are available from any uk bearing supplier, i have re bearinged many inca machines over the years of repairing woodworking machines all well nearly all bearings are marked with a unique number so it is easy to identify them Regards Bobcat


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## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> I would be interested in details of your spring solution. I suspect my spring is in the autumn of its days.


I’ll keep a lookout for where the original spring and the spare and cut off pieces are. But don’t hold your breath as once the replacement was fitted I knew it would be years if ever that I would need them so they got put in a convenient place that I may not find for a while.

Thailand is an interesting country many things are impossible to find but for hardware it’s a different story, there’s a shop in the nearest city that specialises in springs, I took the old one out went to the shop and picked up 2 that looked to be a reasonable match (they cost about ฿120 = £2.50 AFIR) , wire size, coil separation, inner and outer diameter and quite a bit longer, I then cut one to a little bit longer than the existing one flattened the cut end by grinding and it worked, so the original other spring and cut bit was then consigned to a safe place and that will be the last place I think to look, I hope my spare planer blades are in the same place as I’ve been looking for them for about a year or so 

I can take the top wheel off if you want a view of the new spring. The tension screw is sitting a bit higher now when the tension is off maybe 5~10mm as in this pic. I can now easily tension the widest blades I have, before I couldn’t get a 3/4 inch tight enough. This is no tension


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## sometimewoodworker

John Brown said:


> I would be interested in details of your spring solution. I suspect my spring is in the autumn of its days.


To my amazement I found the extra springs, I must have got 3 I think maybe 2 of the thicker ones or maybe 3 different ones 




as you can see one end is just cut off and would need sanding/grinding


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## sometimewoodworker

bobcat said:


> The bearings for these saws are available from any uk bearing supplier, i have re bearinged many inca machines over the years of repairing woodworking machines all well nearly all bearings are marked with a unique number so it is easy to identify them Regards Bobcat


Do you realise that you are quoting a post from 10 years ago?  Also that I was replying to another user and their machine, that for me a trip to a UK supplier would probably be a 4 day round trip even without quarantine then it potentially would be at least 4 weeks !!!


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## ekynoxe

A quick update: my saw works rather well!

I think I do need new blades though, as the ones I got with it, although "feeling" sharp, probably didn't like the rust removal process, and I'm burning through white oak even on straight lines.

Also @sometimewoodworker I do feel like I'll also need to replace the spring as I have to crank the tension all the way past 5 to get a nice ping of the blade and guide it properly. (with the 9mm blade)

One question for the group: does anyone have the fretsaw components? Are they plastic or metal? for cuts like I have here, it might be better but wondering if it's possible to actually make the guides rather than buy them at top dollar.


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## sometimewoodworker

ekynoxe said:


> A quick update: my saw works rather well!
> 
> I think I do need new blades though, as the ones I got with it, although "feeling" sharp, probably didn't like the rust removal process, and I'm burning through white oak even on straight lines.
> 
> Also @sometimewoodworker I do feel like I'll also need to replace the spring as I have to crank the tension all the way past 5 to get a nice ping of the blade and guide it properly. (with the 9mm blade)
> 
> One question for the group: does anyone have the fretsaw components? Are they plastic or metal? for cuts like I have here, it might be better but wondering if it's possible to actually make the guides rather than buy them at top dollar.


I suggest sharpening the blades, this is an easy way, you will be amazed at the improvement.

Also you may not need to tension a little less.

Yes I have the fretsaw guides and they are metal. I doubt that they are at all easy to make youself


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## Eric R

If you search for "inca machines" you'll find an outfit in France that sells sells part for Inca machines. In the States, Eagle tools in LA also has lots of parts and Jessie is very knowledgable about the line too.


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## ekynoxe

Eric R said:


> If you search for "inca machines" you'll find an outfit in France that sells sells part for Inca machines. In the States, Eagle tools in LA also has lots of parts and Jessie is very knowledgable about the line too.



Oh I know it's there! Thank you. (Inca | Woodworking Machinery & Accessories)
But at over £70 for a pair of little metal bushings, I wondered if there was a cheaper way to get them. I'm French, so thought it would be cheaper to get them delivered to family there and pick them up later, but it's even more expensive in Euros delivered to an address in France... Go figure!!


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## ekynoxe

sometimewoodworker said:


> I suggest sharpening the blades, this is an easy way, you will be amazed at the improvement.
> 
> Also you may not need to tension a little less.
> 
> Yes I have the fretsaw guides and they are metal. I doubt that they are at all easy to make youself



Thanks Jerome. It looks great, maybe I need to invest in a bench-top grinder, now! Although it will be fiddly to sharpen a 9mm blade at 10 TPI


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## sometimewoodworker

ekynoxe said:


> Thanks Jerome. It looks great, maybe I need to invest in a bench-top grinder, now! Although it will be fiddly to sharpen a 9mm blade at 10 TPI


I would not sharpen a 10 TPI blade. I have also seen it done with a Dremel and cutoff disk with the blade on the saw.


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