# Need to build a new shed (sigh)



## Nishing (3 Jul 2015)

Hi, today i took down a old garage i had in the garden, due to rot, bowing and leaning, it had stood for 55 years

The garage has a brick footing which is at least 3 courses deep (underground) and it had a concrete slab poured inside the garage about 10 years ago, the garage was built right against the boundary with my neighbour and id like to build the shed the same way but my neighbour has concrete slab on his side so theres essentially a 3" gap where the bottom plate of the garage sat.

Im gonna reuse most of the wood from the garage, new featheredge cladding and some fibre cement sheets for the roof

Where do i start?


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## Nishing (3 Jul 2015)

Pictures


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## Nishing (3 Jul 2015)

Can i fill the void with concrete to bring level with the slab abd then build on that ?


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## Shultzy (4 Jul 2015)

Yes, but you need to "key" the existing concrete so that the new concrete will adhere to it. Make sure you brush, vacuum and clean with concrete cleaner before adding the new concrete. 

Make the shed sides flat on the floor and finished, then just stand them up and screw / bolt them together.


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## Nishing (5 Jul 2015)

Thanks for the reply, can you explain what you mean by key the existing concrete? I googled it but didnt come up with much


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## John15 (5 Jul 2015)

To build your new shed to the same line on the boundary all you need do is clean out the groove down to the brickwork footings then fill with concrete.

John


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## Nishing (5 Jul 2015)

Cheers john

Another issue is the concrete slab has a rough uneven surface, can i fill the voids between slab and bottom plate with mortar or is there some other method ?

Thanks


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## John15 (5 Jul 2015)

I think levelling up the slab was what Shultzy was explaining. It's not an easy job and depends how far out of level and the surface condition.
For low areas say up to 10mm you can use a Self Levelling Compound. Any more than that a mortar screed up to 50mm would be needed. Any localized high spots need to be reduced with a scabbler or small breaker then the surface made good with Self Levelling Compound.
Surfaces to be made good will need to be cleaned and roughened.
When preparing the remedial areas avoid a feather edge - vertical face should be cut 5 - 10mm deep.
If the slab has defects over most of the surface it would probably be better to apply a 50mm sand and cement screed over the whole area, having first prepared the surface as Shultzy has described, ie roughen and clean the surface then apply a coat of Unibond.
I hope this helps. 

John


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## RogerS (5 Jul 2015)

Did that gully act as a drain to take away surface water from your neighbours concrete slab? If you then fill it, I wonder where all that water will now go? 

Just a thought.


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## Nishing (5 Jul 2015)

RogerS":1r8mgb50 said:


> Did that gully act as a drain to take away surface water from your neighbours concrete slab? If you then fill it, I wonder where all that water will now go?
> 
> Just a thought.



No the garage frame was in the slot before the concrete was poured on either side


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## Nishing (5 Jul 2015)

John15":2t1fvt36 said:


> I think levelling up the slab was what Shultzy was explaining. It's not an easy job and depends how far out of level and the surface condition.
> For low areas say up to 10mm you can use a Self Levelling Compound. Any more than that a mortar screed up to 50mm would be needed. Any localized high spots need to be reduced with a scabbler or small breaker then the surface made good with Self Levelling Compound.
> Surfaces to be made good will need to be cleaned and roughened.
> When preparing the remedial areas avoid a feather edge - vertical face should be cut 5 - 10mm deep.
> ...



Thanks john 

I havent actually checked how level it is yet, but i know its not the smooth finish you would want if you were pouring a concrete shed base.

The sand cement screed option sounds fairly straight forward, but will it be strong enough?


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## John15 (5 Jul 2015)

A 50mm screed will be strong enough provided the preparation and laying operations are correct It needs to be done by someone who knows what they're doing. As I've said above the substrate (existing slab) must have a key (scabbling) and be clean (no dust etc) and a bonding agent applied. Check on the mortar mix and water content - probably 4:1 will be OK and a little on the dry side to minimize the risk of shrinkage cracking. Hopefully someone will come on with some additional info on screed laying.

John


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## Nishing (5 Jul 2015)

Ok ill probably stick to self leveling compound then or if the slab is to uneven i may just build the shed in another location and pour a new slab


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## charlibalv (6 Jul 2015)

You could try using 75mmx75mm wood posts as bearers, then shim to level. I did this on a shed I built 15 years ago. Its 6 meters long by 2.4 meters wide 3 meters high, double walled and its had a lot of kit in there the heaviest single piece was 500Kg and its still dead stable. Also as its off the ground there is no sign of rot anywhere.


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## Nishing (6 Jul 2015)

Im just gonna build it on the slab i think as it should be the cheapest option, i wont need to anchor the frame to the base will i?

Also i want a low sloped roof about 10 degree max, what is the process for building the roof? I dont really know were to start

Thanks


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## Nishing (6 Jul 2015)

I meant a lean-to type roof with the slope running side ways rather than lengthways if that makes sense


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## Nishing (8 Jul 2015)

Ok another question, how can i do say a 4m long wall frame with only 2.4m timbers?

Doesnt the bottom plate need to be one piece? 

Thanks


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## charlibalv (9 Jul 2015)

Nishing":20mtgj8j said:


> Ok another question, how can i do say a 4m long wall frame with only 2.4m timbers?
> 
> Doesnt the bottom plate need to be one piece?
> 
> Thanks



The way I did mine was sheets if 2.4 x1.2 m USB with a 50mm x 75mm timbers screwed and glued to form sides and top and bottom plates for the walls These were reinforced at the corners then I bolted these together to form the 2 long walls (3 of them per wall). The bottom plates were then screwed into the flooring, (the floor was 75x75 mm fence posts, shimmed to level, then 12 mm ply, then jablite insulation then 2 layers of 12 mm ply off set, all framed round the edges to receive the wall plates). I filled the space between the timbers with insulation then skinned with 6mm ply. Outside I attached laths covered these with thick plastic sheet and then added the feather edge cladding. The roof was some simple trusses (100mm x 50mm timber cut to form a 22.5 deg slope) and they were covered in try wall polycarbonate. May be over the top but it is still in the same condition today as it was when I built it.


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## Nishing (9 Jul 2015)

Thanks but i dont have osb and dont plan on using any osb/ply in the construction as i have cladding and timbers abd dont want to spend hundreds of pounds on this, any other options


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## Nishing (10 Jul 2015)

Just measured the thickness of my slab, its only 1" so dont think building on that is a option


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## Nishing (10 Jul 2015)

Ok i removed the old slab and i have a idea i would like advice on, i want the shed to be 2.7m x 4m and im gonna build the floor frame and plywood over the top, now i want to have the frame sitting on concrete blocks which will be sitting on a pad of concrete.

I want to know if this is a good idea, what size timbers should i use for the floor frame will 43x75mm's do? And also how many pads of concrete/blocks will i need?

Thanks


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## Paul200 (11 Jul 2015)

Sounds OK to me. I had a similar concrete base that was an old tractor shed until a tree fell on it! Concrete wasn't brilliant so I cast concrete pads at 60cm centres all over it and have just built a 100x50 timber base frame. There's no bounce in the frame at all but I think if you put your blocks at a reasonable distance then 75mm timber will be fine.


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## Nishing (12 Jul 2015)

Thanks for the reply if you dont mind me asking how deep did you pour your concrete slabs and i assume they are protuding above ground level?

How big is your shed and how many concrete pads did you pour?

Cheers


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## Paul200 (12 Jul 2015)

Your welcome. The old concrete base was very uneven (lord knows how old it is - bits of our cottage are 150 years plus) but stable and solid so I just needed to level it up and - being at ground level - get everything off the ground. Because of this the slabs vary in height but average about 50mm. The base is 5m x 4m and I made 40 slabs. Originally I was going to cast 'beams' of concrete across the length but decided this was wasteful and time consuming. Not sure my method saved any time though - setting up formers for ten slabs at a uniform height across 5m of uneven concrete is a mare!

Eventually I'll have a 3.6m x 3m garden room with decking on two sides enclosed under an all-over roof with an offset ridge. I'm taking photos as I go and will post on here eventually.


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## Paul200 (12 Jul 2015)

Actually - thinking about it again - the 60cm centres are along the 5m length only. I've cast 4 rows so the centres across the 4m width are 133cm. But the base is down and all the decking and noggins are in place and it doesn't bounce - that's the main thing!


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## Nishing (12 Jul 2015)

Thanks 40 slabs wow i wasnt expecting that much.

Another question if u dont mind, did manage to get 5m timbers or did you have to join (scarf) pieces together ?

Thanks again


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## Paul200 (12 Jul 2015)

I just butt jointed two pieces with an overlapping piece behind, on top of a block to provide support. All the stress will be downwards so didn't see the need for a proper joint.


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## Nishing (12 Jul 2015)

Makes sense, did attach the shed to the concrete or ground in anyway ?


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## Nishing (12 Jul 2015)

Im thinking i would prefer to build the shed without a wood floor as all the 2x6's and plywood i need will be expensive plus id much prefer a more solid floor like concrete or even paving slabs.

Question is how can i do this without pouring huge amounts of concrete? I obviously cant just built the walls on piers


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## Nishing (12 Jul 2015)

Ok im gonna stick with building the frame on blocks but going to level them with gravel or sand i think


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## Paul200 (13 Jul 2015)

Sorry mate - I was up the hill building my shed!

I haven't attached the timber to the concrete. Thought about it but I think the weight of a 5mx4m building should keep it in place. I may, of course, be proved wrong!

Whichever way you go with your base you're going to have to take a hit - either financially with timber or time-wise with concrete. Your call really :?


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## Benchwayze (13 Jul 2015)

Nishing":3fepq00n said:


> Hi, today i took down a old garage i had in the garden, due to rot, bowing and leaning, it had stood for 55 years
> 
> The garage has a brick footing which is at least 3 courses deep (underground) and it had a concrete slab poured inside the garage about 10 years ago, the garage was built right against the boundary with my neighbour and id like to build the shed the same way but my neighbour has concrete slab on his side so theres essentially a 3" gap where the bottom plate of the garage sat.
> 
> ...



YouTube. 



Decide how many panels you will need. Then make a framework of 3x2 in which to build each section. Each section is joined together as appropriate for the dimensions of the shed. You can clad the sections flat, or if you are not worried about stooping down and/or kneeling, clad them after you have erected them, on the floor, which of course you put down first!. How you attach to the ground is dependant on the site really. I am sure you will find plenty of useful info on YouTube, but be selective.

Hope it goes better than mine did! But then I got someone else to erect the thing! :mrgreen:


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## Nishing (14 Jul 2015)

I must have watched every shed build video on youtube! Lol i think im gonna build the walls in place if not ill have to rope someone into helping me and id rather do it on my own 

My plan is to build the floor out of 2x4's and have it supported by concrete blocks on grade every 2ft or so, osb on top then start building the walls


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## Nishing (14 Jul 2015)

Oh and after i took the slab up i found out the garage was just sitting on a single course of bricks on the soil, it must just have been the small bit i dug up that had 3 courses (weird) 

Crazy it lasted so long


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## defsdoor (14 Jul 2015)

I'm finishing off my shed now. I had to build one so I can empty the old brick one that is falling down and knock it down and build a workshop.

I looked at all the flat pack sheds but they are all extremely flimsy so instead built one from scratch.

The only advice I can give you is to make sure your base is level. Build the floor first and make as sure as you can it is square, then use that as a jig to make the walls.

My shed is 8'x6' and 8' tall. made all out of 2"x3" (floor 2"x4") and ship lap cladding. Sprayed with clear preservative and ultimately going to be sprayed green.

Material costs have been about £600 which could have bought me a shed but this one will withstand a tornado 

This photo is quite early on - the roof is on now and it's clad all round. Just got the door, windows and 2 edge trims to do, plus barge boards on the roof and felt it.


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## Nishing (14 Jul 2015)

Hey paul you wouldnt happen to have a pic of your floor frame layout would you? Im gonna do the floor in 2x4's and would like some ideas on how best to lay it out.

Thanks


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## Nishing (14 Jul 2015)

defsdoor":1qzlgwcp said:


> I'm finishing off my shed now. I had to build one so I can empty the old brick one that is falling down and knock it down and build a workshop.
> 
> I looked at all the flat pack sheds but they are all extremely flimsy so instead built one from scratch.
> 
> ...



Nice one, looks good what foundation you got under it and do you have a pic of the floor frame?

Cheers


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## Paul200 (14 Jul 2015)

Here you go -


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## Paul200 (14 Jul 2015)

And this might be useful too -


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## Benchwayze (14 Jul 2015)

Hi defsdoor, 

I think I'll move to another part of town! In my part of North Brum, eight feet high is too high for planning. Has to be no more than two metres to the ridge or pent. I am a mere 5'6" but I need more headroom than two two metres would give!


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## defsdoor (14 Jul 2015)

Nishing":dhldndbq said:


> Nice one, looks good what foundation you got under it and do you have a pic of the floor frame?
> 
> Cheers



I had some sleepers left over from building some planters so used 3 of them for the foundation. Conveniently 8ft long.


I only have a photo of the floor once all the tongue and groove was down but it's nothing special - just 4x2 at 40mm (or 60 I can't remember) centres screwed to the sides, through the sides. All the load is down to the sleepers so this fixing is really just to hold it together.

Then I screwed some temporary stops into 2 sides to jig up the walls.

Did the felting today and the edge trims. I think I've lost my fear of heights but did get a bit dizzy up there when I stood up. I have the windows and door trims to do and a door.


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## defsdoor (14 Jul 2015)

Benchwayze":3g643ff0 said:


> Hi defsdoor,
> 
> I think I'll move to another part of town! In my part of North Brum, eight feet high is too high for planning. Has to be no more than two metres to the ridge or pent. I am a mere 5'6" but I need more headroom than two two metres would give!



I thought it was 2.5 metres - I'm 7cm shy of that


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## Adam9453 (14 Jul 2015)

Benchwayze":gsbnehoy said:


> Hi defsdoor,
> 
> I think I'll move to another part of town! In my part of North Brum, eight feet high is too high for planning. Has to be no more than two metres to the ridge or pent. I am a mere 5'6" but I need more headroom than two two metres would give!


If your shed falls within permitted development (which most do) then you can go upto at least 2.5 metres (higher if you're not near the boundaries).


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## defsdoor (14 Jul 2015)

I had to look - you got me worried.



> Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of four metres with a dual pitched roof or three metres for any other roof.
> Maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse.



From here - http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/permis ... buildings/


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## Benchwayze (14 Jul 2015)

Good job I had a nine foot wall built around my yard then! :lol: 

Cheers folks. 

But I could have sworn it was only two metres; Gas and electric! :mrgreen:
I confess I am not excellent with conversion. So I estimate 2.5 metres to be about 8 feet. (Giving 39 inches per metre) 
My present shed is about 7 feet to the ridge. Nowhere near high enough, so I am going to have to convert it to Pent type, to gain height at the front, where the bench will be. (hammer)


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## Adam9453 (14 Jul 2015)

The planning rules did change some years ago so perhaps it used to be 2 metres and has been increased to 2.5 metres when they rejigged it to introduce permitted development rights (permitted development I suspect was mainly introduced to stop councils from having to deal with complaints from the curtain twitchers that like to block reasonable development just because their cat doesn't like the colour).


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## Nishing (14 Jul 2015)

Paul200":3rt41ybl said:


> Here you go -



Very helpful thanks, whats the span between the rows of piers?

Cheers


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## Benchwayze (14 Jul 2015)

As for planning regs, I am a Brum, but I live in Walsall to be exact, and you know Walsall folk like to be different.


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## Paul200 (14 Jul 2015)

The centres are 1.33m. I did have concerns about this but you can probably see from the picture that the original base was badly broken in between these widths on one end so, being a lazy person of uncertain parentage, I just went for it - and it's OK. In the end it's just somewhere to sit and chill so I'm not too bothered if it flexes a bit - but it doesn't so I'm happy! I parked myself up there earlier with a glass of something outrageously alcoholic and wondered if I really want to build the rest of it! Very pleasant.


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## Nishing (14 Jul 2015)

Paul200":ith2zqlf said:


> The centres are 1.33m. I did have concerns about this but you can probably see from the picture that the original base was badly broken in between these widths on one end so, being a lazy person of uncertain parentage, I just went for it - and it's OK. In the end it's just somewhere to sit and chill so I'm not too bothered if it flexes a bit - but it doesn't so I'm happy! I parked myself up there earlier with a glass of something outrageously alcoholic and wondered if I really want to build the rest of it! Very pleasant.



Nice one, so did you not remove the old concrete base just cast new concete over it or did you just smash up were the piers went?


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## Nishing (14 Jul 2015)

Never mind you already sed you didnt remove it, how did u manage to concrete them down on pads if u didnt remove the old concrete?

From the pic it looks like the blocks are sitting on old slab?

Cheers


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## Paul200 (14 Jul 2015)

Not sure how deep it goes down but I smacked the bits I wanted to use with a 7lb sledgehammer and they 'rang' so I decided that was good enough for me. I cast the blocks on top of it. Wouldn't surprise me if it's founded on solid rock - our house is at the base of a steep rocky slope (there's a small quarry just along from where I'm building where we suspect the stone for our house came from) and there are rocky outcrops all over.


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## Paul200 (14 Jul 2015)

The original tractor shed was built eons ago and an oak tree demolished it about 10 years ago. There were no doors in evidence when I cleared it all away so I guess the frost has had it's way with the front of the base and broken it up but, like I said, it's solid enough to use as a hardcore base for my blocks.


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## Nishing (15 Jul 2015)

I see, this morning im thinking about a concrete base again as it seems it gonna be probaly half the price of buying a shedload of floor joists, plywood and blocks ...

Hmm....


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## Nishing (15 Jul 2015)

Cheapest quote i got was £200 and that involves me lugging 20+ wheelbarrows, im just gonna pour a strip footing around the perimeter of the shed and build my walls on that, then ill install a solid floor at a later date


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## Benchwayze (15 Jul 2015)

My backyard was paved already. I got some decking, and 4 x 2s to build a platform. Levelled the platform, and bolted down to that. If the 'Breezy-Pheasey' estate weather lifts it, well so be it! (I.e. a calculated risk.) :mrgreen:


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## Nishing (15 Jul 2015)

Changed my mind again! 2x4 frame resting on blocks every 40cm

Can i just have the joists running the width of the shed and noggins in between or does having a beam running the length in the middle make it much stronger?

Just looking to make it as cheap as possible without it being to weak

Cheers


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## Nishing (17 Jul 2015)

Ok having thought about it i want to use 2x2 for the walls, 3x2 for the floor and 4x2 for the roof, does this sound ok ?

Gonna have 18mm osb on the floor, will blocks every 40cm be ok?

Thanks


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## Paul200 (17 Jul 2015)

I've just put my 18mm OSB3 floor down (4x2 resting on blocks at 60cm x 130cm with noggins every 60cm) and it's fine. Well pleased with it.


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## Nishing (17 Jul 2015)

Nice any pics

What size are/did you use for the walls and roof?


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## defsdoor (17 Jul 2015)

Nearly there with mine - 







some final window trims and a door and some glass.


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## Paul200 (17 Jul 2015)

That's a nice tidy job Defsdoor - should have done a WIP on here - people love 'em! Well - I do.

Nishing - I've just started a WIP on here - my-sitooterie-t90558.html

Plenty of photos - take a look. That's as far as I've got and the Open golf is on tv so nothing more 'til next week now!

Cheers

Paul


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## Nishing (17 Jul 2015)

Looking very smart defsdoor, thanks paul

Just been looking at timber prices and 2x4 is hardly any more expensive than 2x3 so ill just go with them


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## Phil Pascoe (17 Jul 2015)

One local supplier gives £1.87+ for 4" x 2", £1.82+ for 3" x 2" sawn treated, but £1.59+ for 4" x 2" treated CLS, although it's a bit smaller. It might be worth a look for CLS.


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## Nishing (18 Jul 2015)

Ok i found a much cheaper source for the timber and now i want to go with big floor joists and minimal piers, im thinking 6 piers, one in each corner and then one in the middle of the long run, i would then have the joists running the width of the shed on 16" centers.

This would give me a unsupported span of 2.6m and 2m (i think)

What size joists would i need for this? Will have 18mm ply on top.

Cheers


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## Nishing (21 Jul 2015)

Anyone know if a 9x2 is strong enough for a 2.5m span?

Cheers


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## Phil Pascoe (21 Jul 2015)

Your joists in your house won't be 9".


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## Mcluma (21 Jul 2015)

I just finished my shed, I did a wip here

bike-tool-shed-t89083.html



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr


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## Adam9453 (21 Jul 2015)

9x2 is strong enough but it may bounce.

I would put another row of piers in the middle to reduce the length of the unsupported span.

You may find it easier/cheaper to level the site, put sand down and concrete slabs down on top.

Then with your slabbed area, you can use lighter weight timber as it will be supported everywhere.

Old slabs are cheap but you'll find timber gets awfully expensive when you go for really chunky sizes.

I used 4x4 treated fence posts as joists (wicked were doing a special offer so they were cheap) and built my own piers from old bricks and concrete to hold everything in place. I then built my shed on top of it.


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## Nishing (21 Jul 2015)

Joists in my house are 5x2 lol

Ordered the 9x2's couldnt get pressure treated though

Cant decide whether todo concrete blocks on the compacted soil or pour concrete and build brick piers


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## Nishing (21 Jul 2015)

Mcluma":39a2echa said:


> I just finished my shed, I did a wip here
> 
> bike-tool-shed-t89083.html
> 
> ...



Looks good, kinda wish i cudda done a concrete base


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## defsdoor (22 Jul 2015)

The outside of mine is all done now. Just need some tool holders and shelves etc inside and I can start to demolish the old one. Then the real fun starts - my new workshop will be 8m*4.5m approx.


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## Nishing (22 Jul 2015)

Cool i take it you chose the colour scheme? Haha


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## Nishing (22 Jul 2015)

Got my 9x2's today, what should I use to attach my joists, cheapest option preferably, joist hangers seem expensive


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## Nishing (22 Jul 2015)

Guess im gonna need to buy joist hangers, anyone know which ones i should get ?


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## Nishing (22 Jul 2015)

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Timber-T ... 7/p/214934

Are these what i need?

Cheers


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## Nishing (22 Jul 2015)

Another question should i get the 7n blocks or the aerated 3.6n block?


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## Paul200 (22 Jul 2015)

Hi again

The Wickes joist hangers look fine - but any timber to timber hangers will do providing they have long enough 'legs' to bend over the top of your main timber.

I just googled 7n blocks because I didn't know the answer. They're used as the base courses for 3 storey buildings so I don't think you need to go to those lengths  Unless you're building a multi-story shed of course :? 

Cheers

Paul


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## Nishing (22 Jul 2015)

7n are the standard 100mm concrete blocks lol, the 3.6n are the lightweight version that has air bubbles in it or something


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## Paul200 (22 Jul 2015)

Right - well I'd use the standard ones then. :lol:


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## Nishing (23 Jul 2015)

Yeh thats what im gonna do, did you use screws or nails to knock your floor frame together ?


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## Paul200 (23 Jul 2015)

One of the many useful things I 'sold' myself when I had my business was a Hitachi gas nailer - so nails - and lots of 'em - I love that thing!


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## Nishing (23 Jul 2015)

Ah nice, the gas ones look good bit expensive though i think


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## damo8604 (23 Jul 2015)

I looked at hiring a Paslode for the week for when my timber arrives but ended up buying a second hand one from Gumtree, my rationale is that I could always sell it on afterwards, ultimately saving on the cost of hire and as I've already spent out on a tool, the Mrs wont notice that I'm putting the money towards something else :wink:


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## Paul200 (23 Jul 2015)

That's cunning :wink: :lol:


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## damo8604 (24 Jul 2015)

I did get in a slight bit of trouble for buying the Paslode in the first place mind, SWMBO's words were "this shed is costing more and more"!

I've built my retaining wall now ready to pour a slab next week. That will be the end of the build until September when the kids go back to school, apparently it's not fair spending every weekend in the garden while the kids are off school, they want to go out and do things........


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## Nishing (25 Jul 2015)

Anyone know any decent wood preservatives i could use to treat my joists? I was thinking of using abit of pt wood between the piers and the joists, dont know if it will do any good though?


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## Nishing (30 Jul 2015)

Ok nevermind i managed to get some creosote, i have a important question though, i started clearing the area were the blocks wud sit and realised there is no solid ground.

So i start digging down looking for undisturbed soil to pour a footing on, problem is the area im digging is were the garage used to be and theres a brick inspection pit in the middle, so obviously everything around the pit walls is gonna be backfill.

Does this mean i need to dig down to below the bottom of the wall?


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## Nishing (30 Jul 2015)

Iv dug down around 2ft and soil is like clayey stuff


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## Nishing (30 Jul 2015)

Well i got down to about 3ft, im going to remove the fill from the otherside of the wall so i can knock it down and use the bricks to make the piers, i have a feeling i might need a few


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## Paul200 (6 Aug 2015)

How's this going then Nishing?


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## Nishing (10 Aug 2015)

Decided to build the shed in another location, means i can only go 3x2.4m though.

Hoping to start the flooring in a few days


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## Nishing (2 Sep 2015)

Ok guys i have a question, i have poured all the footings for the piers, now i need to know how to get all the blocks level with each other and in the right position, im gonna be mortaring the blocks

Cheers


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## Paul200 (2 Sep 2015)

Laser level? Failing that make a water level - long length of clear hose filled with water - get the four corners right and everything else is easy.

Setting out right angles is simple. If you're not familiar with 3-4-5 watch this 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69cslx6ER7k

Wondered where you'd got to!

Good luck!


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## Nishing (25 Sep 2015)

Thanks in the end i just levelled them with shims, just got the floor done and nailed most of the osb down, one thing i have noticed is one of the sheets is about 2-3mm thicker than the other so theres like a 3mm step in the middle.

Im wondering if it will cause any issues when i start framing the walls


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## Nishing (10 Oct 2015)

Got my 4 walls up, slightly confused about how to prepare to install the roof, i want to the top and bottom top plate to support the corrugated roof and ill have a beam in the middle of the shed as centre support.

But my top plates are flat, any ideas its hurting my head


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## Roughcut (10 Oct 2015)

Nishing":1puen8mc said:


> Got my 4 walls up, slightly confused about how to prepare to install the roof, i want to the top and bottom top plate to support the corrugated roof and ill have a beam in the middle of the shed as centre support.
> 
> But my top plates are flat, any ideas its hurting my head



You will need Rafters running the shortest span of the roof at 400-600mm centres.


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## Nishing (10 Oct 2015)

Thanks for the reply, problem is i dont think i have enough head height to do rafters and purlins as im pretty close to the 2.5m limit.

Also my old garage had a asbestos roof and it didnt have a full roof frame, the sheets rested on the top plates and beams running the width


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## Roughcut (10 Oct 2015)

Well I'm no expert on Roofing, Building regs etc. for sure.
But first it might be worth checking if the 2.5 mtr height does apply to your shed or not.
Also I'm just wondering if you might be able to use joist hangers hung off the wall plate to seat your rafters as I presume it's a flat roof you're making?
If you can use the joist hangers you should stay within the 2.5 mtr height if that is your limit.
However someone else may well come along with some better advice for you.


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## Nishing (10 Oct 2015)

Well the shed is next to a boundary so i believe the limit does apply.

If the rafters dont go over the top plate then the sheets wont be supported at the ends will they?


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## Roughcut (10 Oct 2015)

Nishing":2q1e3iq1 said:


> Well the shed is next to a boundary so i believe the limit does apply.
> 
> If the rafters dont go over the top plate then the sheets wont be supported at the ends will they?



Yes I hadn't thought of that.
Off the top of my head (and it's something you probably don't want to hear) but as a last resort is it possible to cut your stud walls down in height and re-install the wall plate allowing enough to keep within the finished 2.5 mtr maximum.
Another option if not subject to planning permission (although a bit naughty) is just to continue on even though you will go over 2.5 mtr 
......and keep schtum with fingers crossed. :!:


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## Nishing (10 Oct 2015)

I may have enough spare height left anyway as i thought it was 2.4m originally, but i dont really want to have buy more timber, which is why i wanted to use the top plates as support.

These fibre cement sheets only need supporting by purlins every 1.3m


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## Nishing (12 Oct 2015)

Can i cut a 2x9 joist down the middle into like a 2x5 and a 2x4?

Got a few left over but they would add to much height if used them.

I have a table saw....


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## Nishing (13 Oct 2015)

Another quick one. Can i use blocking between the rafters rather than purlins on top?

thanks


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