# Glass-like fininsh.



## shedhead (27 Jun 2007)

I have just turned a Elm Burr bowl, with some nice grain. I want to get a glass like finish as i think this will be the best look for this piece. It is approx 6" deep x 10" diameter, with bark inclusion and some small holes in it. I have put supper glue on some of the larger cracks just to give it added strength, but it should not move much as it was well dry.
Tomorrow i will add 50% sand & sealer and 50% thinner, as i always do. What other base can i add before i add final coat of friction polish?. Would adding boiled linseed oil before polish give it the glass look i want to achieve?.


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## shedhead (29 Jun 2007)

Thanks for the interest shown.


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## Terry Smart (29 Jun 2007)

Hi Dermot

Hopefully this is better late than never.

Personally speaking, I wouldn't put a very high gloss finish on this item as you prefer, it could be a little overpowering, but this is of course your choice.

So, here's a suggestion for you, all my own personal opinions of course.

I wouldn't thin the sealer as much as you do, it achieves little and to a point stops the sealer from doing its job properly. I can see no advantage in applying Boiled Linseed Oil either, again this could be detrimental.
Instead, having applied the sealer and allowed it to dry I'd then apply a coat of Melamine Lacquer, let dry, sand then apply a second coat.
Once this coat is dry burnish the surface with Burnishing Cream to produce a shine on the lacquer.
Next, apply Friction Polish, using this quite sparingly and allow to dry fully.
Finally, polish the Friction Polish again using the Burnishing Cream.
This should give you a very high gloss finish which, whilst having an amount of depth isn't as thick as something like Plastic Coating (another option) would be.

I hope this helps some.


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## Newbie_Neil (29 Jun 2007)

shedhead":1heuhkd0 said:


> Thanks for the interest shown.



The problem that you have is that most of the turners never look at any forum other than turning.

I'm betting that if you posted the same thread in turning, you'd be inundated with replies. Well, at least three.

Cheers
Neil


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## shedhead (29 Jun 2007)

Hi Terry. Thanks for your tips i have already finished this bowl in the way i mentioned. I will take note of what you said for future work. I only use Chestnut products and i think they are great. I often use Chestnut wood dye on a plain piece of wood, this brings it to life by making to most of the grain that might not normally show. 
Neil thanks for this i thought that wood turners would ask for help from the experts. My way of learning has always been to ask, ask and ask again until i have knowledge. Expect me back for more advice as i am still new at wood turning.


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## duncanh (30 Jun 2007)

I'm just a turner but I still browse through the posts on all the other groups except ScrollSaws and Design. I just didn't have anything to suggest for this post as I've never attempted to get a glass like finish - I pretty much only use finishing oil for my bowls.

One thing that I was wondering about from ShedHead's suggested finish was how would the sealer and friction polish would look when it filled any open burr areas and pips - did it fill up any open areas, and how did it look?

Duncan


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## White House Workshop (30 Jun 2007)

I'm not a turner myself but a friend who is always used straight carnuba wax on a buffing wheel followed by a burnishing cream for finishing his work. It wasn't a 'glass' finish but it certainly shone nicely and showed the wood patterns to perfection. 

Just a thought; if the finish is too shiny won't that make seeing the patterning in the wood more difficult? It's always down to personal preference, of course, but I rarely use high gloss finishes on any of my work - 1) semi-gloss or matte quality finishes are easier to achieve, and 2) they don't show fingerprints as much when prospective buyers handle the goods!


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## shedhead (30 Jun 2007)

I think the finish has taken okay. The open areas took the finish well as it was a well dried out burr when i started it, i think it has been air drying 3 years now. The cracks are wide and any solution i applyed to it drained into it.


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