# Need some advice re Hall Table



## MickCheese (19 Apr 2009)

Not too good with Sketchup so this is my best effort..

This is to be made from American White Oak. The top is 750mm X 300mm to fit a space in the hall.

I need some advice.

Legs - I started at 45mm X 45mm but that seemed too heavy for a small table so am thinking 35mm X 35mm but is that too light. I don't want to taper them but should I consider this?

Height - I am thinking 750mm but is that too low?

I am aware that it could look out of proportion if too tall as it has a quite small top.

Bottom stretcher - Should it be across the centre from side stretcher to side stretcher or across the back between the rear legs?

What do you think? Please keep in mind that I am an enthusiastic hobbyist not a pro and this will be my first proper piece of 'furniture'.

Mick


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## Lord Nibbo (20 Apr 2009)

You've done a pretty good sketchup drawing Imho, =D> 

The proportions you have drawn look right to me for a hall table but
to get a better impression of the finished look though change it from an xray view to a shaded view and colour it using the wood samples, then you will get a better impression. The stretcher is in the right place, leave it alone.





Although mine is longer and deeper (60" x 16") the proportions of yours look spot on.


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## MickCheese (20 Apr 2009)

Lord Nibbo

Thanks for your response. I suppose I was after some reassurance from someone in the know really.

I will post another sketchup pic filled in.

Really appreciate your time.

Will let you know how I get on. If it is OK, may put it up as a WIP, will take some pics as I go but if you see no more you will know it was a complete disaster.

Mick


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## MickCheese (20 Apr 2009)

I have now coloured it in. What does anyone think about the scale, could it be improved?

I would really appreciate any comments rather than turn some expensive wood into scrap.

Mick


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## MikeG. (20 Apr 2009)

I think that tapered legs would improve the look of this considerably. Thereafter, it is going to be about the quality of the ironmongery, and the detailing and finishing etc, that will determine the success of this project.

Mike


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## MickCheese (20 Apr 2009)

Thanks Mike

I am thinking contrasting square dowels through the tenons and may be contrasting wedges in the lower stretcher tenons. The handles I am not sure about, think I will wait to see what the finished result is before committing.

Now tapered legs? I just cannot make up my mind. I started thinking they would be right, then changed my mind now i'm just confused.

Thanks for your help.

Mick


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## motownmartin (20 Apr 2009)

In the end its what pleases you but IMO it would look better with tapered legs, starting at 45mm at the top, tapering down to 30mm at the bottom, the good thing about sketchup is you can draw it, why don't you make a copy of your file and alter it so you can see them side to side.


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## maltrout512 (20 Apr 2009)

Mike, my opinion would be to tapper legs where the bottom of the rails finnish, inside edge faces(taper) and leave the stretcher out completely. My thought about the stretcher is that it seems to bulk the table up too much. Leaving it out makes it look more delicate. Just my thought.


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## MickCheese (20 Apr 2009)

Thanks for the tips.

Re the tapered legs.

Should I taper all four sides or the inside and front face? If it is the inside and front would that be the same for the back?

I put the stretcher in for strength but I agree it would look better without.

Thanks all

Some good ideas and really helpful.

Mick


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## mailee (20 Apr 2009)

No Mick only taper the inside two faces. If you taper the outsides of the legs it will look pants. It does require them tapering though I have to agree. :wink:


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## MickCheese (20 Apr 2009)

Sorry to be a pain.

So taper just the inside face on each leg or the front face too?

Does that make sense? So one face on each leg or two?

Thanks for your patience.  

Mick


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## MikeG. (20 Apr 2009)

Mailee is right.........taper the faces either side of the innermost corner of every leg when seen in plan.

In other words, the oustide of each leg should be parallel and vertical.

Mike


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## MickCheese (21 Apr 2009)

Ok, I will stop bothering you now, last go.

I have taken on board the tapered legs and although I did dismiss this when I was first designing this I agree it is right.

The stretcher - I have done away with that too and I think it looks better.

I have decided the square dowels will be dark walnut to pin the tenons.

Best I look at turning this pile of matchsticks into a table!  

Thanks for all the observations and advice. It has been really useful to get other points of view and experienced wisdom.

Will let you all know how I get on.

Mick


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## motownmartin (21 Apr 2009)

All you got to do now is enter it into the competition


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## Night Train (21 Apr 2009)

It looks better already.

I am another who would say no stretchers and tapered legs. The taper is almost always on the sides of the legs facing inwards towards each other and from the bottom of the rail down.

I have seen a similar construction where the taper is on the full length of the leg with angled shoulders on the tenons. It works well but that may be because of the large asymetric cabinet that then sits on top.


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## MickCheese (22 Apr 2009)

thanks for all the support.

Competition, I think not, I don't need more pressure :?: I will take pictures and post them so you can see a novice at work.

I have taken the taper from just below the rail with legs as suggested 45mm at the top to 30mm at the bottom on the two inside faces of each leg.

Mick


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## Lord Nibbo (22 Apr 2009)

MickCheese":23vqs1d0 said:


> Mick



One last comment, Re; the drawers, either do away with the centre brace/strut or make it narrower and add a similar width strut to both ends left and right of the two drawers.


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