# Cutting wooden stakes



## brianhabby (20 Sep 2008)

Hi there,

A friend has asked me to cut a number (approx 50) of wooden stakes from 2"x2" timber. You've seen the sort of thing where the four sides at one end are cut at an angle to form a point.

A jig for the T/S is probably the way to go but can't quite get my head round it, any ideas?

regards

Brian


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## Digit (20 Sep 2008)

Many Vampires round your way Brian?

Roy.


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## Rich (20 Sep 2008)

I would say, the SCMS is the easiest route to take.

Rich.


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## jasonB (20 Sep 2008)

Free hand on the TS is quickest, seen loads done that way having worked for a building contractors with own joinery shop.

You would need a SCMS with a 60deg mitre to get a decent point. Bandsaw freehand would also work

Jason


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## 9fingers (20 Sep 2008)

Don't forget to put a 45 degree chamfer on the tops as well to reduce splitting the timber when they are hammered home


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## brianhabby (21 Sep 2008)

Digit":1w3y7ncs said:


> Many Vampires round your way Brian?
> 
> Roy.



Must be Roy, He's asked me to make a cross as well :lol: 

Thanks for the suggestions guys, although I really can't see how the SCMS would do as he wants quite sharp points, and I'm not sure about doing _anything_ free hand on the table saw, is this considered safe practice?

regards

Brian


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## wizer (21 Sep 2008)

I can't imagine how you would do it freehand on a ts? could you elaborate Jason?


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## OPJ (21 Sep 2008)

If you wanted to do it on the mitre saw then you'd really need to build a jig here the workpieces projects from the front of the machine. Otherwise, I don't think the angle would be shallow enough. Even then, I wouldn't recommend this practice as you're practically cutting _with_ the grain and, depending on the fence aperture around the back of the blade, you'll be firing wedge-shaped offcuts, which'll almost certainly jam between blade and fence! :? 

Could you not make a kind of tapering jig for your table saw with a stop at the rear? If you wanted to do them all "free hand" then, to get them all looking the same, I reckon you'd need to template to mark each individual component from.


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## brianhabby (21 Sep 2008)

I'm certainly not happy about doing them free hand, even if this is considered okay and safe by others, I'm not confident enough to try it.

I think some kind of tapering jig for the T/S is the answer, but the only idea I can get in my head would involve the pointed end being pushed up against a stop. It would be alright for the first two cuts at 90 degrees to each other but for the other two cuts you would loose the support of the stop.

I hope you understand that lot,

regards

Brian


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## OPJ (21 Sep 2008)

Brian, you'd be better off having a stop at the other end of the stake; the end which is later going to hit as they're driven in to the ground. This should help to push the timber through the blade and prevent kickback. If you have the stop near to the blade, what's to stop the stake from being thrown back at you?

Think of it as being like a larger-scale wedge-cutting jig.


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## Mr Ed (21 Sep 2008)

Could always do it with a handsaw if you fancy the workout! 50 stakes = 200 cuts which isn't that bad, I think it would be done quite quick when you got going.

Cheers, Ed.


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## wizer (21 Sep 2008)

I actually think I'd do it with a Circular Saw and the EZ rails. It's about the safest, quickest, most repeatable way I can think of,


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## dickm (22 Sep 2008)

Had always done this sort of job with an axe or what is called a hacker in Hereford dialect (billhook? cleaver?). Rest the point end of the stake on a chopping block and cut down on to the block. Good exercise and relatively safe! 
But bandsaw is a lot easier now.


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## Digit (22 Sep 2008)

> Rest the point end of the stake on a chopping block and cut down on to the block.



Yep! Then char the end and soak in Creosote, happy days!

Roy.


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## jhwbigley (22 Sep 2008)

iv done it free handed on belt driven saw benches, iv seen telegraph pole cut down the middle :twisted: id use a jeg to cut the pegs, like a over sized one for cutting wedges


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## WellsWood (22 Sep 2008)

I can't understand why nobody has suggested the obviously (to me at least) safest and easiest method: throw the lengths of 2x2 in a lathe with a 4 jaw chuck and turn the points. Failing access to a lathe (or someone with one who'd help out?) my next choice would be to stick 'em in a vice (assuming no shavehorse) and use a drawknife.
If you absolutely must use machinery then a bandsaw with the aid of a sled has to be far and away the safest. A similar approach could be adopted with a TS but I reckon the results would be much more dangerous. Wild horses wouldn't induce me to try cutting acute angles like those required for a viable stake (upwards of 70degrees) on a SCMS - those wedge shaped offcuts are a liability and then some if drawn up the rear of the blade and into the guard - DAMHIKT!!


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## Woodmagnet (23 Sep 2008)

Try this way. :wink:


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## WellsWood (23 Sep 2008)

kevin":140gbmo8 said:


> Try this way. :wink:



I really wouldn't :shock: 

Leaving aside the fact that the setup in the drawing is for left handed operation, the workpiece is not against the fence, which may result in the workpeice being dragged into the saw, along with the fingers of the hand holding it - not the most desirable of scenarios.

NEVER attempt to cut anything on a mitre-saw that isn't firmly planted against the fence if you want to keep your digits.


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## Woodmagnet (23 Sep 2008)

You can clamp the stake to the fixture/bed part or 
screw another piece to it to make a r/angle fence
if you can see what i mean. :?


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## OPJ (23 Sep 2008)

That looks like a standard 45º cut to me... Why not forget the jig and just hold the timber against the fence? I think he's looking for a steeper than 45º, unfortunately.


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