# Help MT2 stuck



## deema

Would welcome any ideas, hints or suggestions. 
Well, we have an MT2 arbour stuck in a shaft and will not budge. I’m running out of ideas on how to get the two apart. It does not have a slot for a drift, so no chance of getting at it from the rear unfortunately. It’s a high speed shaft, part of the pin router we are renovating: we have a thread about it.

So far tried dunking it in penetrating oil, percussion encouragement, heating up the outer, and applying a lot of pressure to pull it out. It’s being stubborn and not shifting. This is the arrangement we came up with to pull it, it’s very difficult to get anything to pull. However, there are a couple of bolts pushing the two clams apart.


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## Phil Pascoe

Drill a hole in through the end, thread it, insert a bolt and work out a way of putting a puller on it?


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## Myfordman

I think heating followed by shocking it with cold fluid ideally with the improvised puller attached to keep the tension on it.


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## Old.bodger

Could you open up the gap between your two ‘ring clamps’ to a distance that will allow you to use a couple of small hydraulic bottle jacks ?


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## Inspector

Got any NDT (non-destructive testing) companies around where you live? They can X-ray the shaft and with the film you would know where the end is and either drill a hole in the shaft behind the taper, thread it for a Zerk fitting and with a grease gun hydraulic the taper out, or fit a hydraulic hose fitting and hook it to heavy equipment (bull dozer, big farm, tractor, skid steer) and use its hydraulic system to apply 3,000 to 6,000 PSI to push it out. The X-ray would also show you where to mill a slot so you can try a tapered drift. If you go the grease fitting route you could mill the slot in it after.

Otherwise you are down to heating the pushers and shaft as is and then pour liquid nitrogen on the taper portion to make it shrink and beat on it.

Now way to get wedges in like the ones used to pull drill chucks?






Wedge Sets Set No.: #6 WEDGE SET, Used on JACOB Taper No.: 6JT & 33 : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific


Wedge Sets Set No.: #6 WEDGE SET, Used on JACOB Taper No.: 6JT & 33 : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.ca





Pete


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## deema

Old.bodger said:


> Could you open up the gap between your two ‘ring clamps’ to a distance that will allow you to use a couple of small hydraulic bottle jacks ?


Unfortunately not, and at the other end of the shaft is a thread for a nut, but it’s nit sufficient to make a fixture to apply any real pressure.


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## gcusick

deema said:


> Would welcome any ideas, hints or suggestions.
> Well, we have an MT2 arbour stuck in a shaft and will not budge. I’m running out of ideas on how to get the two apart. It does not have a slot for a drift, so no chance of getting at it from the rear unfortunately. It’s a high speed shaft, part of the pin router we are renovating: we have a thread about it.
> 
> So far tried dunking it in penetrating oil, percussion encouragement, heating up the outer, and applying a lot of pressure to pull it out. It’s being stubborn and not shifting. This is the arrangement we came up with to pull it, it’s very difficult to get anything to pull. However, there are a couple of bolts pushing the two clams apart.
> 
> 
> View attachment 143236


I do like ‘percussive encouragement’!!


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## deema

Inspector said:


> Got any NDT (non-destructive testing) companies around where you live? They can X-ray the shaft and with the film you would know where the end is and either drill a hole in the shaft behind the taper, thread it for a Zerk fitting and with a grease gun hydraulic the taper out, or fit a hydraulic hose fitting and hook it to heavy equipment (bull dozer, big farm, tractor, skid steer) and use its hydraulic system to apply 3,000 to 6,000 PSI to push it out. The X-ray would also show you where to mill a slot so you can try a tapered drift. If you go the grease fitting route you could mill the slot in it after.
> 
> Otherwise you are down to heating the pushers and shaft as is and then pour liquid nitrogen on the taper portion to make it shrink and beat on it.
> 
> Now way to get wedges in like the ones used to pull drill chucks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedge Sets Set No.: #6 WEDGE SET, Used on JACOB Taper No.: 6JT & 33 : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
> 
> 
> Wedge Sets Set No.: #6 WEDGE SET, Used on JACOB Taper No.: 6JT & 33 : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.ca
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pete


Now that’s a good idea, I will have a google to see if there are any company’s.
I can make wedges, but the pressure from the bolts is probably higher than I can get with wedges.
I’ve run it through one heat cycle, and placed water in the ‘cup’ that receives the collet to rapid cool the MT2 shaft. So far, it’s being persistent that it wants to remain where it is.


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## Inspector

deema said:


> Now that’s a good idea, I will have a google to see if there are any company’s.
> I can make wedges, but the pressure from the bolts is probably higher than I can get with wedges.
> I’ve run it through one heat cycle, and placed water in the ‘cup’ that receives the collet to rapid cool the MT2 shaft. So far, it’s being persistent that it wants to remain where it is.


If you put the wedges in a press or clamp It might apply more pressure than the bolts it the taper of the wedges is finer than that of the bolts.

Pete


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## okeydokey

This may be way out of line and total rubbish but if you were able to grip the shaft in say a vice and then put a long pair of stilsons on the arbour you may be able to twist it out?
or if you were able to put the arbour in a vice with the shaft hanging below, could you bolt a metal bar onto the other end on the shaft and sharply hit both side of the bar at the same time it and gravity with simultaneous strikes might force it out. Sort of sliding hammer idea
If the arbour wont grip in a vice, see if you can weld something to it so it will fit in a vice
well, something along one of these thoughts might spark an idea good luck


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## sawtooth-9

Is it a morse arbour ( with the male end protruding ) or a morse sleeve ?
If it's a sleeve, you may have to machine it out ( and re-ream the morse taper in the shaft ).
If it's an arbour, you could try welding a stud ( about 5/8 inch ) and use this against the END of the shaft o provide axial force while you give it a decent wack. The welding heat may help free it up, even though the expansion is coming from the inside - just let it cool first !
Not in favour of the ring clamps, because if they slip, they will damage the shaft


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## deema

@sawtooth-9 thanks for the suggestions, it’s an arbor. 
The two rings clamps are against substantial shoulders. I have my fingers crossed they don’t slip.


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## Torx

I can’t help but think, even if you get it apart by whatever means the taper surface is likely ruined anyway, so machining it out if you can’t get another seems the best option.


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## Richard_C

Years ago I spent most of a day trying to release a taper fit ball joint on my car, nut came off easily but no amount of thumping or pulling worked. Took it round to a nearby proper old fix it garage and they got it off in seconds. Instead of hitting the end or pulling from the top the mechanic took two hammers and simultaneously hit opposite sides of the arm the taper was fitted through, the shock released the taper and it could be gently pulled out. I've also dealt with stuck things like brake drums with repeated rapid tapping with a metal hammer so the whole thing starts to 'ring', the vibration in the steel frees off any surface corrosion. Do you have room to try similar less obvious percussive techniques?


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## Fergie 307

I have often found with conventional pullers that getting them really tight and then giving the driving screw a sharp thump does the trick, so percussive assistance with pressure applied!


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## Fergie 307

Pilkington at the image could you attach a slide hammer to the threads on your outer clamp, then with tension on, use that to give it some encouragement?


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## Fergie 307

How on earth does my auto correct get Pilkington from Looking ??


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## John Hall

Is it possible that the tapers are rusted together?
It may help to firstly hit the flange as though to tighten it to loosen the grip, then hit the flange on both sides to release it. I also think a heavy duty slide hammer attached to the flange is the answer.


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## sawtooth-9

Torx said:


> I can’t help but think, even if you get it apart by whatever means the taper surface is likely ruined anyway, so machining it out if you can’t get another seems the best option.


If you can release it, the taper will probably still be good - unless you try to twist it out ( which is unlikely to work ), even then a touch with a morse reamer would fix that.


Fergie 307 said:


> Pilkington at the image could you attach a slide hammer to the threads on your outer clamp, then with tension on, use that to give it some encouragement?


A slide hammer will not give sufficient shock.


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## sawtooth-9

I remember when we tried to get the flywheel off a large plastics granulator.
My factory fitter was belting the cr..p out of the shaft against the pull of an 8 ton hydraulic puller. It would not budge.
I suggested he belted in the direction of the pull and "bingo" - first hit, and it released.
As you are dealing with an arbour, you could cross drill the max. dia. across the male end ( probably around 10 mm ) and use a short high tensile bolt across the hole.
Then use ( or borrow ) an hydraulic puller . Crank it up and belt the cra.p out of it from the puller end. Even if it is rusted together, it will release


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## Blister

Looking at your photo it looks like you have heated the morse taper judging by the blue tinge , Surly that would make the MT expand making it tighter , I think you need to heat up thr part it goes into ?


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## deema

@Blister Well spotted. Your sort of right
We heated the nut which held the collet in, it was solid. In the end we used a nut breaker to get it off. We couldn’t get it to undo.
The heat cycle I’ve done on getting the MT2 out was on the spindle with the centre of the MT2 cooled.
It’s lying on my bench looking at me daring me to have another go at shifting it. So far it’s MT2 six : Deema zero


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## MARK.B.

Deema if a man with your wealth of experience and knowledge is stuck (no pun intended)them what hope is there for us mere mortals


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## ajs

Fergie 307 said:


> How on earth does my auto correct get Pilkington from Looking ??


I suspect that is mostly the robomoderator, some of the substitutions used do raise an eyebrow - "turnip" files is the usual one. In this case probably preceded by a typo. Perhaps L->F, that doesn't result in the usual spelling but it's a common enough variant it may be recognised in its own right.

I just tried putting it in here as an edit but it wasn't altered. OTOH does the robot look at edited posts?


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## ajs

No, it doesn't do that on a fresh post either.


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## Duncan A

Leave your jacking gear in place, cranked up to max, throughout the following.
Leave it immersed overnight in penetrating oil. Once removed and cleaned off, heat the shaft as fast as you safely can (to limit heat transfer to the MT inside). Spray a can of freezing fluid into the MT. It may just shock it off.
Not guaranteed to work!


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## Housey210

Has it been apart before? What machine, pickies of that and this shaft free from the clamps would be good.


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## deema

@Housey210 here is the thread we started sometime ago……Sideways and I are retired, we are a bit mañana, so things take a while
SCM Super Router Refurbishment


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## Deadeye

deema said:


> Would welcome any ideas, hints or suggestions.
> Well, we have an MT2 arbour stuck in a shaft and will not budge. I’m running out of ideas on how to get the two apart. It does not have a slot for a drift, so no chance of getting at it from the rear unfortunately. It’s a high speed shaft, part of the pin router we are renovating: we have a thread about it.
> 
> So far tried dunking it in penetrating oil, percussion encouragement, heating up the outer, and applying a lot of pressure to pull it out. It’s being stubborn and not shifting. This is the arrangement we came up with to pull it, it’s very difficult to get anything to pull. However, there are a couple of bolts pushing the two clams apart.
> 
> 
> View attachment 143236



They say there's no such thing as a studif question. Well, mine is going to come close.
Are you 1000% sure it's simply two MT surfaces mated and that it's not threaded? I kno wit would be unusual etc....but sometimes strange modifications get made. Also, what's the arbor mounted in?


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## Sideways

Hmmm. That's making me wonder.
It looks like a MT shank collet holder pushed into a MT2 socketed spindle.
There's no drawbar to keep it in.
The only way to pop it out originally looks like it might have been paired wedges - but nothing came with it.
There are no flats to unscrew anything and I don't recall anything that could serve as a spindle lock.
It was red rust on the table and rain has been down through the head.

But - it's a router, like milling machines they are subject to side load, so a simple push in morse taper wouldn't be ideal to keep the arbor secure. It might be like milling with a pillar drill, the chuck tends to vibrate loose and fall out.

I'm sure I recall that some kinds of old routers, and certainly old mills, used screw shank cutters.
I wonder if the arbor could possibly, somehow, be screwed even though there's nothing visible that suggests it.

If we sacrificed the arbor, we could just cross drill right through the threaded portion of it, put in a tommy bar and impact it.
An old 1/2" square drive socket big enough to fit over the threaded end of the arbor and angle grind two slots to fit over a tommy bar. Then grip the spindle and use an impact driver to get percussion on the socket to try and break it loose or unscrew it ...

Or even weld a short square drive extension into / onto the end of the arbor and do the same.

(Check the spindle direction of rotation first)


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## Fergie 307

sawtooth-9 said:


> If you can release it, the taper will probably still be good - unless you try to twist it out ( which is unlikely to work ), even then a touch with a morse reamer would fix that.
> 
> A slide hammer will not give sufficient shock.


depends on the weight of the hammer


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## Fergie 307

On a more serious note it would certainly be useful to know for certain what you are actually dealing with, MT or threaded. I wonder if it would be worth extending your search for help to other machinery related forums. With a bit of luck you will find someone who is familiar with the machine and knows exactly what it is, and may even know some trick for removing it. You might even find someone who has the very same machine, always useful as a source of information.


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## deema

I have the maintenance manual which SCM very kindly dug out for me. It certainty shows it as a plane MT2 shank held bu a nut, which we did release. I love the warning……clearly lost on the previous owner!


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## Fergie 307

Do like Inspector's idea of using hydraulics, and has the advantage that you could use the same technique if it ever got stuck again. Only other thing I can think of it you are convinced is is rusted in would be a soak in a weak solution of phosphoric acid, or even a cycle of electrolysis to dissolve the rust. Never used either technique specifically for this but have been surprised in the past how both get in between parts that appear to be completely solid. Might be worth a try.


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## Housey210

where are the bearings? Photos of shaft free from all the bits, bobs,bolts and clamps


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## Housey210

Try daltons woodmachinery, they may be able to shed some light on how it seperates!


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## Fergie 307

Worst case scenario I suppose would be to have it ground out and a new one manufactured, together with the nut. Surprising they didn't provide some means of getting it out especially since they were obviously aware of the risk of it getting stuck! Certainly something to think about as part of the rebuild.


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## Fergie 307

John Hall said:


> Is it possible that the tapers are rusted together?
> It may help to firstly hit the flange as though to tighten it to loosen the grip, then hit the flange on both sides to release it. I also think a heavy duty slide hammer attached to the flange is the answer.


Used to have one which had the head of a 14lb sledgehammer drilled through lengthwise to slide on the shaft. Nothing resisted it for long!


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## deema

A couple more schematics which show the construction. We have released the shaft from the housing.


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## Fergie 307

Thinking of how to attach a slide hammer. Could you find a replacement for the collet retaining nut? I'm thinking a bar machined to imitate the collet and held in by its retaining nut, with the hammer attached to the other end. Thick plate with a hole just big enough to pass the arbour to act as a stop. If the hammer is good and heavy then you will have a nice straight shock. I have used a similar set up in the frame of my press, so the shaft is vertical and you just have to lift the weight up then let it go. MT2 can only put up so much of a fight surely


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## Housey210

looking at this schematic are items 9, 11, and 12 those shown in your actual picture?


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## Dalboy

This may seem a little unorthodox method. You say the shaft is out of the sleeve now hold it with the MT section uppermost hold the shaft lower down not too tight just enough to support it in that position now tap with a hammer around the shaft turning the shaft occasionally. I use to use this method when I was a plant mechanic to free some of the taper fixings and it worked a treat some of those where jammed in tight. Just make sure you do not hit any vital surfaces like where bearing fit for example. Don't expect it to free after a couple of taps it may take up to a good couple of minutes tapping no need to bash it hard just sharp type taps


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## --Tom--

Good you have the schematics, hopefully shock will shift it. A non marking hammer hitting round the shaft should help loosen


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## TFrench

While you've got the puller on it I'd try a few heat cycles. Are you using just gas or oxygen as well? I've found the extra heat oxy generates can really help in a situation like this as it gets the outer piece warm so fast it expands off the inner, as opposed to all expanding at the same time if you do it with a more gentle fuel like propane or MAPP.
Attached pictures are a VERY old vacuum pump we've been working on recently. Mr blue got one of the pistons moving but the other was stuck fast. Luckily I had a lead on a very beefy hydraulic press so I got it bought and that got things moving! According to the gauge it was getting up to around 15 tons before it moved! Now on top of all the other projects I have on the go I've got a hydraulic press to bring up to standard as well...


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## okeydokey

Hi TFrench
I like some of this old machinery - but it never comes my way to restore - I must be looking in the wrong places


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## Tris

I may be mistaken but it looks like the end of part 10 is threaded and possibly the inside of the collar on the arbour? If that is the case I'd try putting a pin through one of the holes in part 11, heat the arbour collar and try drifting part 11 in the right direction using the pin. 
Does the arbour collar have flats on as in the diagram? Just wonder if someone swapped the original and got it wedged


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## Housey210

At a loss here! What exactly can be seen in the original photo in relation to schematic? To me, the holed rusty collar looks like item 11 butting up to item 6 and as 6 is referrenced above clearly a bearing. The shaft is clearly parellel and, to me, can only be item 10. The blacked piece, to me, is item 12 and as shouldered in schematic, a threaded lock nut. Where is the MT2, the router collet? Threaded lock nut might be opposite thread and only holding bottom bearing! Bit of heat and undo.


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## John Hall

Did you manage to get it apart?


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## deema

Not yet! Still on the thinking about bench. Tried the solution suggested without success. I’m thinking about boring the centre and then cutting to the taper to get it out as a last resort.


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## John Hall

Can you put another picture on showing the complete unit, so we can see the other end..


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## Tris

If the diagram in post #33 is correct then it will unscrew, it says attach collet holder by tightening nut B, are the flats visible?


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## John Hall

Tris said:


> If the diagram in post #33 is correct then it will unscrew, it says attach collet holder by tightening nut B, are the flats visible?


That’s just relating to the collets, Nothing to do with the morse taper


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## Phill05

deema said:


> Not yet! Still on the thinking about bench. Tried the solution suggested without success. I’m thinking about boring the centre and then cutting to the taper to get it out as a last resort.



Have a try at this:


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## Tris

John Hall said:


> That’s just relating to the collets, Nothing to do with the morse taper


As I read it nut D holds the collet, nut B being an integral part of the taper/holder


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## Oldnut

I have always found the two hammers from opposite sides swung in unison trick, as mentioned earlier to be most effective, ideally with the puller attached, but if the puller is where the 'meat' of the adapter is try with and without the puller.


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## John Hall

Tris said:


> As I read it nut D holds the collet, nut B being an integral part of the taper/holder


My apologies…I’ve just re-read your solution and I agree, it should just unscrew,
There is an internal thread on the collet holder..
It looks like we have all been assuming that because it’s a morse taper that it knocks out, when in fact it is simply screwed in? That’s why I asked for another pic to give more detail..


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## redhunter350

I agree with Tris and such a system would negate the need for a draw bar ! The MT being held in place by the thread and the thread acting as an ejection tool as well ?
Deema, how about some photo's of the unit without the extractor you show in the first post.


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## Tris

Looking at the top diagram of post #39 I think the collar (11) is a locking ring, with a pin fitting into a hole somewhere to allow the taper to be unscrewed, that makes me think it could be a left hand thread


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## Housey210

John Hall said:


> Can you put another picture on showing the complete unit, so we can see the other end..


asked for those photos earlier!


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## chaoticbob

deema said:


> I have the maintenance manual which SCM very kindly dug out for me. It certainty shows it as a plane MT2 shank held bu a nut, which we did release. I love the warning……clearly lost on the previous owner!
> 
> View attachment 143327


If I've understood this saga correctly, you had to resort to a nut splitter to get the collet retaining nut *D *off, but have removed the nut *B *(which seems to have the equivalent function to a drawbar in a milling machine) OK. So you're left with an MT2 collet chuck stuck in an externally parallel spindle.
You don't say what the collet system is, but it looks like ER, in which case you can easily get a replacement for *D. *If that's so you could try mounting an end mill in the collet chuck, mounting the parallel spindle in the lathe three-jaw, fixing a lump of scrap steel on the lathe crosslide and then attempt to mill a slice off the scrap using the side of the end mill.
Might sound crazy, I was sceptical when it was recommended to me by a seasoned engineer when I had a similar problem, but it worked within seconds. Combination of vibration and the pulling action of the end mill I suppose.
Bob.


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## Housey210

How about showing us pictures, from all angles top bottom side etc, of the whole item without all the clamps and lumps of metal! This is a woodworking overhead router?


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## wallace

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago whilst rebuilding a wadkin LQ which has a morse taper 2. I tried everything for 3 weeks. In the end I took it to a machinists place and they put it in the lathe and cut it out. They said it was still stuck until the last 1/2mm. 

I've did manage to remove one from another machine by locking the spindle and putting big stilsons on the insert with a long cheeter bar. Once it rotated a tiny bit it just fell out. In hindsight this is not a good method because of the twisting strain being put on the shaft. 

Maybe heat and a freezing spray might work


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## Housey210

Lets have some photos with all the clamps and lumps removed!


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## deema

I’m not at home at the moment, I will pop up photos when I’m back. Thanks everyone for all the help and suggestions. It’s really appreciated


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## deema

Here we go, more piccies.
The bottom bit is the remains of the bearing, it’s the inner race you can see





The parts have had a few heat cycles, so they don’t look too pretty at the mo.


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## Housey210

deema said:


> Here we go, more piccies.
> The bottom bit is the remains of the bearing, it’s the inner race you can see
> View attachment 144831
> 
> 
> The parts have had a few heat cycles, so they don’t look too pretty at the mo.
> 
> View attachment 144830


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## Phill05

I might be wrong here but that look to me like it is the main shaft with the screw threads and the MT socket is clear?

Like this one a spindle:


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## Housey210

deema said:


> Here we go, more piccies.
> The bottom bit is the remains of the bearing, it’s the inner race you can see
> View attachment 144831
> 
> 
> The parts have had a few heat cycles, so they don’t look too pretty at the mo.
> 
> View attachment 144830


The holes are a good indication that the collar unscrews with special pin spanner.


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## deema

@Phill05 its very very similar to the one you show, apart from the collet housing is detachable…….well that what the manual says I will have a another look and quadruple check.


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## deema

@Housey210 that collar secures the shaft into the housing and adds the preload onto the bearings. I used a pin spanner to remove it


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## Housey210

Might be worth asking main supplier if a new shaft is available, looks well chewed up that collet thread. An Engineer may be able to tig the damage area and recut the thread, at a cost.


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## deema

@Housey210 I’ve spoken with SCM there are no spares. Im lucky that I have the kit and can make a new shaft if it’s required.
However, we’d probably fit a new Chinese high speed spindle if all else fails. That’s the route that @Sideways is advocating.


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## deema

Had another look…..just be sure I hadn’t missed something really silly. The collet holder is definitely a separate piece….phew!


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## Tris

That doesn't look like the screw on one in the diagrams does it! Could be worth drilling through it and putting a long bar on it as a last shot


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## Housey210

this reminded me an an outstanding job! About 18 yrs ago I found a three phase upvc copy router at the tip, which the staff let me have for £25. Clearly something was wrong for the owner to scrap it and stripped down I found the thread on top damaged. Seeing this photo I dug the shaft out over the weekend and yesterday swung by a local welder, to see if they could tig it. Tenner mate, I'll do now. Leaving him to it I nipped to the nearby shopping mall to pick up some more wool for my elderly mum, me now being her full time carer. The shaft was still warm when I returned and along with the tenner I gave him two packets of chocky hob nobs and one box of jaffa cakes! Well pleased, well cheap and top job. Just needs the thread re-cutting.


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## deema

The shaft has been lying in state for a while, whilst we considered the next salvo to shoot over its bow. So, the next plan was to turn off the top, drill through the centre to break out at the back of the MT2 taper, tap to BSPT and insert a grease nipple. This would enable us to squirt grease under pressure behind the MT2 and hopefully dislodge it.


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## deema

Well, the Wanner grease gun applies about 400 bar, and that just didn’t do it. So, taking lots of precautions we decided to heat it up. The grease will expand increasing the pressure. The pressure could rise enough to blow out the grease nipple, well that was our risk assessment. We actually do take time to really consider the risks associated with any ‘odd ball’ stuff we do.

After warming to what we considered to be enough, we carefully laid it down pointing into a safe location. Luckily, we had taken precautions as the ball bearing in the top of the grease nipple literally exploded out with a sharp gun shot sound.


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## deema

That didn’t work, so just in case we hadn’t broken through to the back……although we were sure we had, we drill it a little more, attached a new grease nipple and this time used a different grease gun that could apply more force…..690Bar.



Still no joy. So it’s definitely going to get machined out next time the owner of the machine pops around.


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## Housey210

Are you still convinced this is a morse taper? See attachment


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## frogesque

OK, looks like you are dealing with an MT with possibly no tang that's come loose, spun and siezed (read friction welded!) itself into the shaft while under load. If you've already managed to drill it it should be soft enough to machine out. May need tipped tools though. Bit of a pain but probably better than replacing the whole thing


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## Housey210

get the old inner bearing race off and pickie showing what is under.


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## Deadeye

deema said:


> Well, the Wanner grease gun applies about 400 bar, and that just didn’t do it. So, taking lots of precautions we decided to heat it up. The grease will expand increasing the pressure. The pressure could rise enough to blow out the grease nipple, well that was our risk assessment. We actually do take time to really consider the risks associated with any ‘odd ball’ stuff we do.
> 
> After warming to what we considered to be enough, we carefully laid it down pointing into a safe location. Luckily, we had taken precautions as the ball bearing in the top of the grease nipple literally exploded out with a sharp gun shot sound.
> View attachment 147555


Deema, we need an update on this mystery? Did you machine it out in the end? What was the cause?


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## deema

@Deadeye, its a friends machine that @Sideways and I are helping him / showing him how to renovate. We are teaching him how to machine….which is a bit like the blind being taught by the one eyed man; our machining knowledge is all self taught and we are not very far up that curve towards mastery He will be doing the machining, and the project waits until he’s free to pop around and we have another go at it. At the moment that’s probably tomorrow.


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## Deadeye

deema said:


> @Deadeye, its a friends machine that @Sideways and I are helping him / showing him how to renovate. We are teaching him how to machine….which is a bit like the blind being taught by the one eyed man; our machining knowledge is all self taught and we are not very far up that curve towards mastery He will be doing the machining, and the project waits until he’s free to pop around and we have another go at it. At the moment that’s probably tomorrow.


Great - hope it goes ell. Let us know if it was simply stuck, welded or threaded!


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