# 3 projects at once! TV corner unit, wardrobe, storage unit



## oddsocks (5 Jan 2010)

A few months ago I agreed to build my daughter three projects, all to be delivered before her baby next March.....

To match with existing furniture the finish needed to be American White Oak, Limed (I think - not got to the bit of trying to get a good match yet!) and simple contemporary style.

Here's the final sketchup images that I used with the cutlist plugin and then my data transformation process to import into Optimik (I created a how to post a few months ago). The result showed that all three units could be built from 3 sheets of 19mm Oak veneered MDF, 2 sheets at 7mm veneered and a 1/2 sheet of 4mm ply (drawer bottoms). The solid wood (TV unit top, door frames, plinth and lippings to all the MDF components) needed approx 4 cu ft of white oak (this translated into me buying 12 but using 10 lengths of 2.5m at widths from 110 -280mm, most at 160-180mm).

(ignore the colours on the images, I was showing the different materials). The top of the corner unit is solid wood, in this image I have replaced the original one component with the individual timber widths, so that I could get the needed lengths. I ended up with this layout as I think the grain will flow better and it avoids short grain at the front. 
short side to wall corner is 1130mm, long side 1575mm, depth of top is 320mm (sized to hold two rows of DVDs after allowance for rear panel and doors). The drawers on the short side are to hold gaming handsets, the games console will be behind the door to the right of the drawers. 






Wardrobe with height to fit in an alcove




storage unit, to be built as three towers with one door on each tower and 1, 2 and 3 cubicles (the larger one takes full size A4 folders). Note that the lower rail on the middle and large towers is aligned to the small tower, which means the panels are not all the same size in these





I estimate the total cost will be just over £550 for all three....


Veneered MDF & Ply = £275... I give my local timber supplier (Bradhams) the optimik print out and they cut all the pieces for me free of charge - in this case that required a minimum of 80 cuts for the 5 sheets. They even label the usable offcuts as such.

American White Oak - £168 from Thorogoods....I selected 12 boards, all 2.5m long 1" thick with totalled 4.9 cu ft. I only needed 10 of the boards....next time I'll take the laptop with me and have optimik ready to allocate cuts based on the actual timber widths I select. What I actually did was assume in Optimik I had 100, 125, 150, 180 and 200mm widths and went with what it allocated. In the yard they were 140 etc so when I got home and put the true widths in Optimik was able to get all i needed out of just 10 lengths. Optimik and similar are really designed for sheet materials, but it did what I needed for solid as well.

Hinges, super magnets for doors etc £57 from ironmongery direct

Toughened glass for the TV unit centre door - quoted at £18 (not yet bought).

Glue, finish etc approx £30.

So now to some WIP (not much progress yet but hopefully documenting here and having the March deadline will spur things on....)

The cut MDF stacked against the wall, the initially dimensioned oak in stick on the dining room table (yes I had to move it all on Christmas eve!)
The labels on the MDF come out of the optimik program so hopefully i won't mix up the pieces. They are stacked by unit.






After Christmas I sharpened the blades on the dewalt planer /thicknesser and thicknessed all the oak to just over 20mm after getting the garage nice and warm.... 
good old Hotspot..still going after 12 years





The wood waiting to be thicknessed (it took about 3 hours!)
[





And this is where I'm at now....the wood is thicknessed, labelled and the TV unit long side top has been jointed (its indoors to allow the glue to dry). Hopefully by the end of the weekend I'll have the TV unit top 3 main components (short side, long side and centre) all jointed and maybe some of the MDF lipped.






Looking ahead...

I intend to use my new joint genie to dowel the MDF components, and the freud door panel router set (bought at the DM tools show) for the door frames - I kept the component dimensions common across all three pieces of furniture.and have plenty of dimensioned test pieces......there may even be the odd gloat pic with my recently acquired festool TS 55 EBQ plunge saw and rail that jumped out me as a discounted bargain as ex demo stock (approved as demo stock because it had been sold and recovered within a few days due to the buyer going bust but by that time it had been used)......I only went in to buy a spanner':roll:'

The construction is hopefully not going to be too difficult, but I'll post progress and any good photos I'm able to take


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## johnf (6 Jan 2010)

You must have a very understanding wife that allows you to work on the dining room table 
looks like you will have to be a busy boy to get that lot finished in time for the new baby's arival
keep the picture's coming


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## oddsocks (6 Jan 2010)

johnf":1ton745e said:


> You must have a very understanding wife that allows you to work on the dining room table
> looks like you will have to be a busy boy to get that lot finished in time for the new baby's arival
> keep the picture's coming



Yes! Mind you it helps that there is a baby deadline involved and I need to keep the wood stable in order to progress.

I'll post more pics in a couple of weeks, I think the next few days will be more of the same (if I can get to the garage) - the mundane of jointing the boards for the corner unit top and biscuiting the lippings onto the 106 pieces of MDF (or at least most of them) them trimming to size. 

I also need a trip to my daughter to get a drawer sample for colour matching and confirm the door frame profile.


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## OPJ (7 Jan 2010)

Yes, I do like that last photo as well!! 

Keep the progress coming. :wink:


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## oddsocks (17 Jan 2010)

Since my last post most of the work has been mundane gluing boards and solid wood lippings. I did discover that I had not been diligent enough in sketchup so a number of my veneered MDF panels are full size (no allowance for lipping) and hence my cutting list did not have enough lipping pieces - good job I have 2 lengths of oak spare!.

Today I planed, scraped and sanded the corner unit solid top and then cut to final size. There are three pieces short side, long side and the centre piece. This was the first time I used my new toy - the festool rail saw and I am extremely pleased with it. Prior to owning this I would have cut using my EB200 table saw, but the rail system (with clamps each time) was absolutely solid, accurate and even on cross cuts gave a finish that shone.

I realise I didn't take any pics of the finished items, but here are some WIP.... My saw package came with 2 x 1400mm rails so I cut one of these (on my mitre saw) to give me 800 and 600ish. During the day I used each if these individually and joined the 600 and 1400 for use on one long rip cut. I am so impressed I wonder how much I'll actually use the saw table now (for general batch ripping I can use the bandsaw).

trimming the centre piece across the grain..





And the finish from the saw (and the accuracy, totally on the line of the sacrificial strip)





Now to cut the diagonal (on the short side)- you can't see the two clamps but they hold it firm. I had already cut the piece to exactly 320mm wide and then took the sketchup front and back edge dimensions from the other end to the mitre and set the guide to these.





Accuracy confirmed





To trim the long side to width (320mm) I needed to join two rails. I used the third one (800mm) as a straight edge to confirm the run was correct.






That's it for now. Next weekend it will be more lipping, dowel joint genie to join the corner unit top and probably building Steve Maskery's tenon and mortice jigs (workshop essentials 1-3 ordered< I knew I should have bought all 5 when I bought the 4&5 recently!). I've also ordered a couple of wealden long reach 1/4" straight bits to give me the 25mm mortice depth.

Dave


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## oddsocks (29 Jan 2010)

well its two weeks since the last update. last weekend was spent lipping more of the wood, routing the rebates into the corner unit framework and building Steve Maskery's router morticer jig.

This weekend my plan is (and I'll be amazed if i get through all of this....)
1 -lip more wood
2 -plane the glued lips flush
3. groove the rebates in the remaining veneered panels and plinths that need it (for the storage unit) - in my preparation today I realised that in the storage unit design I set the rebates in 9mm and in the panels it was 10mm, so will need a fence move.
4. use the joint genie to dowel the corner unit carcase together (dry fit)
5.finish the mortice jig by adding a couple of improvements I've thought of to stop the vice tipping and make it quicker to fix the next piece of wood at the correct height.
6. plane the door frames with face and edge
7. mortice the door frames
8. cut the rails to length
9. make SM's router tenon jig (or do i make the 'ultimate tablesaw tenon jig??)
10. cut the tenons
11 make 2 x hinge jigs (bigger hinges on the wardrobe and storage units, smaller ones on the corner unit
12. cut the hinges
13. mock up the concealed magnetic catches
14 sand and finish the corner unit carcass

Plus go shopping!

Tonight I organised the solid timber and made sure I knew which pieces needed tenons, mortices and rebates - here's the photo.. on the left are the drawer fronts, at the back are all the rails needing tenons, in the middle is the wardrobe plinth, in the front is the storage plinth that needs rebates and on the right are the vertical door frames that need mortices!


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## oddsocks (3 Feb 2010)

Well I never did everything I intended, due to having to service the car rather than spend Sunday in the workshop, but I did get 1-5 from the list finished.

I also 'stumbled' upon this method of cutting mitres at each end of a finished length of wood (in my case needed for the storage unit plinth).

Set the mitre saw to 45 degrees and clamp a scrap piece of wood (with a square end at 90degrees to the edge against the fence) to the fence and make an initial cut...





butt up the piece that needs cutting and make another cut. The saw kerf will be the gap between the two...






Assuming the full mitre hasn't been formed, move the workpiece to close the gap...




and cut again....
and now I realise I don't have a final picture! but the result was the full mitre. Doing the same for the other end resulted in the workpiece still measuring it's original length with perfect mitres at each end.

I haven't done the maths theory, but seeing as the first cut established the saw kerf then all the subsequent references from that mitred face to the scrap mean that the bottom end edge of the workpiece will in the final cut just touch the blade but not actually get cut - providing the previous cut had left work to be done.

The position of the scrap piece is not important as long as some of it ends up being mitred and the square end is 90 degrees.


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## devonwoody (4 Feb 2010)

Well done.

Called my wife into the computer room to look at your project and she said..........., I said dont worry darling I will put an old tablecloth on the table so you needn't worry. 

Have you got my other sock, theres one hanging in my wardrobe awaiting for its mate can't remember where I left it. :wink:


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## MikeG. (4 Feb 2010)

Good stuff Dave! You need a bigger workshop!!!!!

Whereabouts is Bradhams? Is it a Haverhill company? I also use Thorogoods, but also deliberately over-order every time I buy from them so that I slowly build up a stock of timber......and so that any cock-ups don't entail another trip to Ardleigh!

Mike


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## OPJ (4 Feb 2010)

That tip looks similar to something I read in a _Fine Woodworking_ magazine, recently... I like the idea a lot.


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## devonwoody (4 Feb 2010)

OPJ":36n7dz3e said:


> That tip looks similar to something I read in a _Fine Woodworking_ magazine, recently... I like the idea a lot.



I shall have to do that cut on a saw, cant follow it at the moment. I assume it is the right hand piece (with dowel) that is the final piece of timber being used.?


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## BigMac (4 Feb 2010)

oddsocks":5u1fd8kh said:


> I haven't done the maths theory, but seeing as the first cut established the saw kerf then all the subsequent references from that mitred face to the scrap mean that the bottom end edge of the workpiece will in the final cut just touch the blade but not actually get cut - providing the previous cut had left work to be done.
> 
> The position of the scrap piece is not important as long as some of it ends up being mitred and the square end is 90 degrees.



The positioning of the scrap piece does matter a bit. If you mitre more than half the width of the scrap piece you won't get the final piece in two cuts.

That may or may not screw the whole thing up (it may just mean three cuts, I can't quite get my head around it) but best to make sure the mitre is about a third of the width for speed if nothing else.


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## oddsocks (4 Feb 2010)

Mike Garnham":23cb1tik said:


> Good stuff Dave! You need a bigger workshop!!!!!
> 
> Whereabouts is Bradhams? Is it a Haverhill company? I also use Thorogoods, but also deliberately over-order every time I buy from them so that I slowly build up a stock of timber......and so that any cock-ups don't entail another trip to Ardleigh!
> 
> Mike



Mike - thanks and yes (but my workshop is a double garage). Bradhams is a local business in Haverhill about 1/2mile from me (through town, towards Cambridge and take the withersfield road).phone is 01440 702110.



devonwoody":23cb1tik said:


> I shall have to do that cut on a saw, cant follow it at the moment. I assume it is the right hand piece (with dowel) that is the final piece of timber being used.?



The wood with the dowel is the scrap piece on the right hand side, that stays fixed. I'll take some proper sequence photos at the weekend and post in in the tips and jigs section (and I'll show the starting and finishing lengths of the wood being the same). I liked the idea as it is easier to cut the wood to length and then mitre rather than try to get the second mitre in the exact place on an overlength piece. 



OPJ":23cb1tik said:


> That tip looks similar to something I read in a Fine Woodworking magazine, recently... I like the idea a lot



Typical - I don't subscribe to FW but it goes to show that nothing is every original, just rediscovered!


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## devonwoody (5 Feb 2010)

Does that mean that picture frame pieces will be a doddle in the future regarding consistent lengths?


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## oddsocks (6 Feb 2010)

devonwoody":2l4lho34 said:


> Does that mean that picture frame pieces will be a doddle in the future regarding consistent lengths?



I did some experimenting this morning it looks like I was just lucky last weekend as the position of the scrap does make a difference. it didn't take me long though to get it right so that the last cut was in the right place and once i had that I could cut the mitres very quickly. If needed often, once the correct position for the scrap is found it could be marked against the mitre back fence for fast reuse. I'll post some pictures later (just stopped for tea break!)


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## OPJ (6 Feb 2010)

Hi Dave,

I've drawn a couple of quick sketches to illustrate how the mitre jig works in the issue of Fine Woodworking (it's the _201 Tips for Woodworkers_ special).

First, you score a 45° line on your mitre saw. Where this meets the back edge, you square a line across from that edge, which is what you will trim to 90° with your saw (I've drawn two lines here, representing the kerf width). You would repeat this at both ends of the block for mitres either side of the saw.






Trimmed block is on the left (blue), piece of timber to be cut on the right (yellow).






Hopefully, you can see it references off the square end and yet, still cuts a mitre without reducing the length. You'd need to designate a saw blade to be used specifically with this jig. Yes, positioning is critical.

I also appreciate that you were cutting your mitres along the other axis but, I think the principles are the same.

Hope this helps, people.


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## oddsocks (6 Feb 2010)

Thanks Olly - that makes sense and supports what I found this morning - the scrap block needed only a small mitre cut into it much as shown on your blue piece - same principle in the other axis

tea break over, back to drilling dowel holes!

Dave


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## devonwoody (6 Feb 2010)

Thanks OPJ, I would add that the blue piece needs holding on to the fence with a clamp to maintain its position?

I myself would want the yellow pieces clamping, to stop any runaway as well.


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## OPJ (6 Feb 2010)

Yes, DW, the block would definitely need securing. They recommend drilling or using a dowel for location but, most mitre saw fences are pre-drilled anyway. Clamping the work piece is also a good idea.

Only thing that does concern me about this is that there's a risk the cut-off might get caught by the rotating blade as it frees and bind between the blade and block... Especially as it's tapered. :?

I guess that nipping the corner off first (halving the size of the offcut) might work. You don't want to lose too much of your 90° edge or else there will be nothing to register against the block.


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## oddsocks (6 Feb 2010)

today's progress, mainly joint genie of the carcase components for the corner unit. I made up a locating peg from a piece of 8mm stainless steel rod and tapped it for a set screw (why isn't this item included in the kit in the first place given the cost of it?). the joint genie was easy to use, and every test joint was perfect...

note the reference face clearly marked. I also use a block of wood on the drill to ensure the depth stop does not drift - 16mm deep holes in 19mm does not leave much margin for error..






and a test fit





Next job was to make a jig for the hinges - these are drawn brass hinges from Ironmongery direct. I used a 6.4mm cutter and a 10mm guide bush - took less than 30mins to make and was perfect first time.  ....not the hole in the jig - lesson one is make sure the depth stop is locked. Lesson 2 always start off in the jig area not the wood!





Here's the fitted hinges in test pieces ...EDIT this is the photo of the hinge recessed to achieve the 1.63 mm thickness..




but when the door is in the closed position the gap was 2.67.. which looked too big..




setting router to cut deeper reduced the gap to 1.63mm but the hinge recess doesnt look so good






Is there any 'standard' gap to have between a cabinet frame and the door? Tomorrow's schedule is to cut the hinge slots in the carcass, sand and then apply ronseal diamond hard satin clear varnish then assemble


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## oddsocks (7 Feb 2010)

I checked out 'Joyce' lat night and looked at a wardrobe I'built years ago that has zero clearance at the door to frame. I had used Joyce's recommended method of tapered mortices - zero to 1 thickness on the frame, 1 to 2 thickness on the stile.

2 mins in sketchup showed I need an angle of 6.1 degrees (14mm hinge short length/1.5mm hinge thickness), so with my new bixey protractor I'll make a ramp for the jig (i think it needs to be reversible as the slope is opposite for the frame and stile). Will post progress later.

BTW, for those of you tracking the state of the dining room table it is now clear and extended .......ready for the varnishing and decorators pyramids later today


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## oddsocks (7 Feb 2010)

I realised that the hinges I was using only had 4segments and the 'barrel' was thicker than the ones I used on the wardrobe. Luckily I found 6 pairs of these (I thought I had used them!) and they just needed to jig tweaking a bit (they are 2" not 50mm). With these I have 5 segments and the gap is 1mm.

So after many test cuts I started on the corner unit carcase, marking 41mm in from the top (rails are 40mm + 1mm gap) and 65mm from the bottom (45mm rails, 1mm gap, 19mm base)....almost forgot the base allowance!.......
and then with 4 mortices to go my old ELU MOF96E made a sad bearing noise and seized  I may have spare bearings so will see if it can be resuscitated.

EDIT: The pole piece (magnetic ring that rotates inside the speed control) had broken into 3 pieces. When that fails the router goes to max+ speed so it then wrecked the top bearing. I've got a spare bearing (its a common size) and have ordered a new pole piece £10.05 delivered.
Meanwhile I sanded the corner unit peices and they are now being varnished.


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## oddsocks (12 Feb 2010)

Ive just rebuilt the router and run it in for 5mins at various speeds without any strange noises or smells so the new bearing and pole piece seem to be ok .

I ordered the glass for the centre door of the corner unit today and have an expectation from daughter that the unit will be delivered next weekend....so tomorrow and Sunday are going to be busy and finally at least the corner unit will come together.

pics to follow on Sunday


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## oddsocks (14 Feb 2010)

visible progress this weekend - the corner unit main components have been assembled and the 3 solid wood pieces of the top joined together (with much use of heavy lump hammer .....too many dowels from the joint genie make it a tight assembly!). Photos of progress....

I decided to make brass 'buttons' to hold the top to the carcase (mainly because I forgot to allow for the wood button thickness and the shelf would not take a DVD with a wooden one fitted). after bending the right angle a simple jig cut the brass to length. 12 were made, drilled and slotted.






Then another simple router jig to make the cutout to house them..




first part of the assembly was to fit 45degree wings to the verticals of the centre unit so that the other two would be held at the correct angle and meet properly at the front. I drilled through the shelf areas for the centre piece to avoid the screws being seen (you can see the screws in the other unit in the background)




then the verticals of the other units were offered up to pilot drill





then assemble the middle section - approx 50 dowels are an accurate but extremely tight fit...




For the long side there are two shelves that meet at a middle divide. I drilled assuming 30mm dowels but then used 40mm dowels for this, putting 3 into each shelf (in alternate holes). this resulted in 10mm protruding that then fitted the other shelf. 




And so to the top - I used some scrap and pocket hole screws to get the right clamp grip. the screws are into the back edge which are not seen (and were removed when I routed the rebate for the back).. I haven't any picture for adding the second wing, but it involved a significant lump hammer and sacrificial wood screwed to the underside of the top, mainly in the 'void ' area. Dowels are very accurate but I think that in future I will make the holes slightly larger to enable assembly!






The top with the first coat of varnish (blotchy as its drying)..in the background you can see the assembled centre and long side unit




I have drilled dowels at the front of each unit to locate into the top. Likewise at the back, but I have enlarged those holes in the top into slots using an 8mm cutter , to allow for wood movement.

With that done, it was time for some handwork to plane the door stiles and rails...then back to machines to route the panel groove..(nice and safe!)




and then the first outing of the Steve Maskery mortice jig...I did 24 mortices in 22 minutes ( what looks like mortices in the pic are part of the jig - i havent fitted the laminate that would hide that)




and the finished items (bottom mortices are 5mm longer than the top ones)






And that is where I'm at!

still to do for the corner unit are the rails and tenons (may make another SM jig for that), assemble the doors and varnish, cut the hinge rebates in the doors, fit the magnets for door catches and do a final test assembly of the top to the carcase.

Dave


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## oddsocks (24 Feb 2010)

Update from the past weeks efforts - the corner unit has to be delivered next Sunday so that has been the focus, but I have also progressed the carcass components of the storage unit and it's plinth (no photos of those yet).
cutting the door tenons on a version of Steve Maskery's jig (I need to sort out the cutter shield but my hands are well out of the way)




trimming the haunch with the bandsaw and a stop




finished tenon




and the perfect fit (how does it go - 'right first time every time!) Given that the panels were veneered MDF they were fully glued in.




Time to start test fitting ....the main 3 units 








with the top fitted and the gloss knocked back with grey webrax





No photos but I've also fitted the backs, cut the horns off of the doors and test fitted them and marked the hinge positions. One of my rulers is exactly 1mm thick so I sat the doors on that to get the clearance.
All that's left to do for the corner unit is cut the hinge mortices (router jig), fit and fettle the doors, make the two small drawers and cut some 8mm thick strips as a hidden plinth so it 'sits' on the carpet.
It's come together nicely but it is a relief when the top sits fine on all the dowel locators!


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## wizer (24 Feb 2010)

Dave this is an interesting thread. But the pics are a tad small IMO. Could we have them just a tad bigger? 450px is the minimum width I use.


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## oddsocks (24 Feb 2010)

thanks Wizer - I use flickr so will go back and change the links in the last post to be medium rather than small size.
EDIT - done


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## wizer (24 Feb 2010)

oh much nicer Dave. Makes things easier to see, cheers


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## oddsocks (24 Feb 2010)

wizer":1jglp5h6 said:


> oh much nicer Dave. Makes things easier to see, cheers



Well seeing as it's s dull TV night and I'm with 'manflu' I'll work my way back through the recent posts and change them as well.

here's the link to the album on flickr where all the pics are

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157623022623069/


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## devonwoody (25 Feb 2010)

Thanks Oddsocks, those pics. are so much easier on the eye, even with my 26" monitor. :wink:


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## oddsocks (26 Feb 2010)

not a good day.... 
first the glass supplier for the toughened glass for the centre door confirmed they had lost the order (now re-ordered for Thursday) then when I was cutting the hinge mortices in the door frames I realised that one was marked wrong....but no, it's the already cut mortice in the frame (the shelf divider vertical on the long side, lower hinge) - I'd cut it at 65 mm from the bottom rather than 46mm (i.e forgot to allow for the base thickness). 

I'll post pics tomorrow of the problem and (hopefully) the fix. 

I'm sure I measured at least twice!


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## oddsocks (28 Feb 2010)

The corner unit has been delivered and well received. I still have to finish the drawers (but progressed enough to size the front, back and sides of both). 

I also fixed the misplaced hinge with a repair that is very hard to see from the front as I tapered the new piece in- no finished pics as they just wouldn't focus but I have added some WIP after lower down.

Unit in place (no handles yet as Katherine hasn't bought them!) The lower two areas in the centre are to store their two laptops. Note the wall socket to the right of the TV - this mandated the max height if the unit was to be close to the wall.






And the DVD storage - the top shelf has 72 DVDs, the lower shelf stores the slightly smaller blu-ray and music CDs






hinge repair. I needed to finish the new mortice by hand because the unit base got in the way of the router











Progress re the drawers and dovetails (and yet another use for the excellent painter pyramids)..drawer sides and front (x2 in the one piece)






using a 3mm cutter against a backstop to remove the bulk of the waste and get the depth consistent





Now (next weekend) it's time to focus on the completion of the drawers and the assembly of the storage unit that has used many of the same techniques for the carcass and doors.

Dave


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## devonwoody (28 Feb 2010)

Very nice indeed, I would give you an order anyday for one of those.


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## mailee (28 Feb 2010)

Very nice work Dave. I like the idea of the laptop storage. :wink:


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## oddsocks (23 Apr 2010)

It's been a while since I updated this - births and funerals have taken precedence recently...

I still haven't quite finished the corner unit as the toughened glass still hasn't arrived (the glass company finally cancelled all outstanding orders and found another supplier so I should get it next week). I've now completed both the 3 tier storage unit and the wardrobe but realise i don't have a photo of the finished wardrobe - I'll sort that next weekend. 

Construction followed the same principles as for the corner unit, with the addition of a shaped plinth for the storage unit made from solid oak with a 6 mm veneered MDF insert and suitably placed support frame. I've now been asked to turn some cone shaped handles for the corner and storage unit (this weekend's task).


















and the one photo I have of the wardrobe! Before it was delivered the request came to add a lower rail to maximise the hanging space for baby clothes. All the drawers were dovetailed and made with 8mm sides and backs and 4mm ply bases, held in via a groove in the front and slips glued to the sides above and below (to increase the bearing surface).

There was also a simple plinth that raised it 120mm off the floor.






That's it! Started in December and finished in April.

Next job is to put up a floating shelf.


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