# Featheredge



## The Bear (26 Nov 2008)

Hi all

Anyone know where I can buy pressure treated soft wood featheredge for workshop cladding?
I'm after 8 inch wide boards with a rebate at the bottom, so they sit flat against the subframe. Once the first board is on the rebate of the next sits on top and it goes on much quicker and easier with one pair of hands.
My local fencing place doesn't do it with rebates, but i know it is out there.

I'm in north Surrey if that helps.

Thanks

Mark


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## MikeG. (26 Nov 2008)

Well, that's not feather-edge! 

We used to call that weather-board in Australia. As it will be machined it will be much pricier than sawn feather-edge, which is normally ex 7"

Mike


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## CWatters (26 Nov 2008)

Perhaps..

http://www.vastern.co.uk/tc-fixing-lap.html


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## Digit (26 Nov 2008)

That's Ship Lap Mark and considerably more expensive than Feather edge board. Personally I have never seen it offered in that width, 4 or 5 inch seems to be the Norm.

Roy.


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## The Bear (26 Nov 2008)

Guys thanks so far

What I am after, when its on, looks exactly like feather edge. It just sits fully flat to the subframe due to the rebate (which makes it easier for one person to do alone).

Shiplap I agree comes in usually 4 to 5 inch wide pieces and has the "scoop" moulded out of the top, both for decoration and to allow it fit to the next board in a tongue and groove manner. The stuff I'm after does not look like that.

My neighbour has it but the place he got it no longer trades.

Any other ideas anyone?

Mark


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## dennis (26 Nov 2008)

Mark

Could you rebate the bottom and trim the pointed edge off the standard featheredge yourself.

Dennis


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## neilyweely (26 Nov 2008)

Steal your neighbours?? :wink:

Probly a better idea is to rebate it yourself. Do you not have the machinery to do this? How large is the WS going to be?

Neil


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## CWatters (27 Nov 2008)

These people also have a 200mm wide version (but are in cornwall)...

http://www.cornishwoodland.co.uk/produc ... adding.htm


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## The Bear (27 Nov 2008)

That is exactly what I'm looking for Colin

Now that everyone now knows what I struggled to describe, does anyone know where I can get it within reasonable distance of Surrey?

(It would take me far too long to rebate myself with the tools at my disposal)

Mark


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## Mattty (27 Nov 2008)

I'm struggling to see a great advantage of this product over the conventional feather edge? :duno:


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## neilyweely (27 Nov 2008)

bear

I am in Bedford, but have a 'residence' in Kimbolton. I also own the tools you might need to do this job, should that be an option.

Which side of Huntingdon are you? I do sometimes come over thata way, and could perhaps help you turn some normal feather-edge into what you require. I am not talking about work, you could do all that!! In other words you would only have to pay for what you broke!!! :wink: 

Only problem is I may not be that way for a while......

If not, maybe consider that for a hundred quid you could get the tools to turn normal feather edge into the rebated type. And would be able to use them for other jobs, almost certainly, at some point.


HTH

Neil


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## Doug B (27 Nov 2008)

Mattty":124je105 said:


> I'm struggling to see a great advantage of this product over the conventional feather edge? :duno:


Matty,
I think it`s that it`s self spacing & that it`s easier to fix single handed.


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## MikeG. (27 Nov 2008)

James B":2b4in0bo said:


> Mattty":2b4in0bo said:
> 
> 
> > I'm struggling to see a great advantage of this product over the conventional feather edge? :duno:
> ...



Fixing orthodox feather-edge single handed is easy enough, with a little thought. A couple of T shaped jigs from off-cuts of battens, improved with a outer piece to allow a board to be lowered into, rather than onto, the jig, and away you go. I did a whole barn-house myself a few years ago in just a few days.

Whatever style of boarding you use, remember to use only one nail per board per batten (don't nail through the overlap), and crucially, paint the board all around before you fix it to the building.

Mike


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## Digit (27 Nov 2008)

I did my workshop the same way Mike. Half an hour of trying with measuring tape etc was enough!
My house and out buildings are all feather edge and I DO nail through both to stop the boards curling outwards.

Roy.


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## Anonymous (28 Nov 2008)

Hi Mark,

I used standard feather edge but invested in a nail gun. I couldn't space the boards exactly as they hadn't been machined accurately enough (I'd have had to measure every single board....or thought of a better spacer). After the first wall I found that doing them partially with a spacer and partially by eye was best. This also helps when you get near things like windows so you don't end up with tiny slivers.

Don't forget that you're spending tool money when you buy more expensive cladding.

Dave


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## MikeG. (28 Nov 2008)

Digit":38mogrj5 said:


> ............... and I DO nail through both to stop the boards curling outwards.
> Roy.



Oh dear!!

This is the way it should be done, and this allows movement with the weather but doesn't allow curl:






I have also sketched the little crucifix device which you nail up under the preceeding board edge.......including an extra bit of batten to enable you to work alone.

Mike


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## The Bear (28 Nov 2008)

Neil thanks for your offer. However I suspect it will be more work than how Mike has described using normal featheredge so will probably employ his method and make myself a little bracket. So thanks Mike as well. And I promise to use only one nail!!

I have a couple of places fairly local where I can get featheredge. What do members think is a reasonable price per metre?

Mark


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## MikeG. (28 Nov 2008)

Good decision Mark.........and don't forget to paint/stain the boards _before_ you nail them up!

Mike


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## Anonymous (28 Nov 2008)

Hi Mark,

I rang a couple of places for feather edge boards but found B&Q to be the cheapest. The disadvantage is the boards aren't as long but they are a fixed length. Sorry, can't remember how much I paid for them. Not sure how much better the timber yards feather edge is. I'm quite happy with how it has turned out though.

Dave


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## Digit (28 Nov 2008)

Ah but you see Mike, I drill an oversize whole first, The other method I have found can cause the upper plank to split if the nail is driven to hard and not to close the gap if not driven hard enough.
My house was built in 1938 and uses that method, so I copied it.

Roy.


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## chippy1970 (29 Nov 2008)

Mark,

I see you are in Surrey do you have a Champions timber near you they sell it in green or brown, pressure treated I clad all my workshop in it over 3 years ago and it still looks good.


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