# What Resin?



## woodpig (6 Sep 2015)

I've seen folks mixing up their own resins for pen making. What type of resin is used for this and does anyone have any links for suppliers please.


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## marcros (6 Sep 2015)

i would have a look on www.penturners.co.uk

join up and ask some questions. There are a number of resins, and techniques to use them successfully. It is like asking "what wood is best?".


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## Dalboy (6 Sep 2015)

I'll start you off THIS is the polyester resin that I have been using along with their colours HERE also I have used THESE to colour the resin.

This is using the colours from mbgf the lock and load pens show that you can mix the colours as you would paints to get the colour required















And this is using the powder colours from The colour shack on e bay






Also go to the link marcros put up for more in depth further info. Hopefully see you there


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## nicguthrie (6 Sep 2015)

Very nice pens Dalboy.

I've been looking for good info on this myself, for filling a knot hole in an otherwise gorgeous yew blank (to start with), so very much appreciated.

I especially like the powder colours, very attractive - should make it easier to get blanks of specific colours, for those fussy types! 

Nic.

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## Dalboy (6 Sep 2015)

nicguthrie":2yqvttgp said:


> Very nice pens Dalboy.
> 
> I've been looking for good info on this myself, for filling a knot hole in an otherwise gorgeous yew blank (to start with), so very much appreciated.
> 
> ...



Polyester has a small amount of shrinkage when it cures so you may need to look at another resin give the people in the first link a ring and they will tell you which is best or look for an epoxy type resin that does not shrink


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## woodpig (6 Sep 2015)

Thanks for your thoughts and the links guys, most helpful.


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## nicguthrie (6 Sep 2015)

That was fast!

Ok, thanks for the warning. I've enquired of a couple of companies for that sort of detail, and either not heard back, or gotten the "whatever" type answer. Appreciate the warning, I'll try and contact them tomorrow.

I said knot hole for simplicity, but it's actually where a fairly gnarly shaped inclusion fell apart, so I may get away with a little shrinkage, I just fancied filling it with classy black resin.

I do have other projects in mind it'd be fantastic for too.

Thanks again.

Nic.

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## woodpig (6 Sep 2015)

Nic, I have seen a video somewhere of a guy who "combines" wood and plastic for pen making. I think he used "Alumilite" resin which on further investigation is just Polyurethane Resin as far as I can see. Sadly it's at least double the cost of Polyester Resin. Epoxy resin may be an alternative but I've no idea how well it may turn, could be too brittle?


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## Dalboy (6 Sep 2015)

woodpig":3an13060 said:


> Nic, I have seen a video somewhere of a guy who "combines" wood and plastic for pen making. I think he used "Alumilite" resin which on further investigation is just Polyurethane Resin as far as I can see. Sadly it's at least double the cost of Polyester Resin. Epoxy resin may be an alternative but I've no idea how well it may turn, could be too brittle?


One of the Epoxy resins which I understand can be turned is Wests Epoxy resin

And Polyurethane Resin


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## woodpig (7 Sep 2015)

Thanks for that. This is a good price but I noticed shelf life is only six months.

http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/p ... resin.aspx


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## nicguthrie (8 Sep 2015)

Thanks guys, and my apologies for almost hijacking the thread, Woodpig!

I've a pal that works with the west system stuff a lot, with it's range of additives for all sorts it's impressively versatile stuff - interesting to hear it's turnable - I'd have assumed from having worked (just a little) alongside him with it, that it would be very brittle on the lathe, but perhaps not?

If it's also able to be used with dyes and powders, I may invest in one of the wee packs for everything from varnishing to blank-making. See if I can challenge myself to get through 600ml in 6 months! 

Nic.

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## woodpig (8 Sep 2015)

No problem Nic. I've used Wests Epoxy before for laminating and it's very good stuff. If I remember correctly you can't put too much pigment in it before it affects the cure. Having said that I don't think you need to put a lot in anyway to get a good colour. At the time there weren't too many colours available for epoxy but that may have changed, it was a while ago.


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## nicguthrie (8 Sep 2015)

Out of curiosity, would the same mica powder pigments and colours dyes work in PU resin, or would it need to be formulated specifically for the type of plastic?

I've a bit of chemistry knowledge, but without knowing much of the detail of the pigments, I've no idea - if they're inert particulates they should work up to a certain concentration in anything, but it's better to ask one who knows before blowing money creating coloured goop that doesn't set!



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## Dalboy (8 Sep 2015)

nicguthrie":2pqmp8km said:


> Out of curiosity, would the same mica powder pigments and colours dyes work in PU resin, or would it need to be formulated specifically for the type of plastic?
> 
> I've a bit of chemistry knowledge, but without knowing much of the detail of the pigments, I've no idea - if they're inert particulates they should work up to a certain concentration in anything, but it's better to ask one who knows before blowing money creating coloured goop that doesn't set!
> 
> ...



This is one that you may need to ask the supplier as I have only done polyester resin so far as I am new to the casting scene. Polyester can be brittle as well if you turn it with force little and gentle cuts are needed also if you add too much hardener it can shatter so better to be just under than over when adding it.

This is what I have for casting my pen blanks I can do a block or 3/4" and 1" tubes. Except for the silicon for the square mould and the resin everything I found around the workshop.


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## nicguthrie (8 Sep 2015)

Nice setup! Looks like you've a lot more space than me in your workshop 

Careful if the police ever look in the window, those 1" tubes look a lot like small pipe-bombs! 

I'd expected the shattering thing, and I tend to take very light passes with most things, it helps my control with my dodgy joints, if it doesn't help with getting things done fast  

I may get some of the polyester resin that you use, since at least I know it works for making blanks, then think about something else for the inclusion gap. I guess plain epoxy mixed with some black powder pigment would do as a filler, I used to make something similar for repairing models when I was a kid.

Awesome help, thanks. I've checked a number of sources in the past, but due to current stuff, just let it lapse. I found it a bit hard to break into the scene since the number of choices was intimidating, and a lot of the sites I've found assume a fair amount of fore-knowledge of terminology and details. 3 cats and a fume-sensitive wife makes experimenting in the house a big no-no too!

Keep up the good work!


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## woodpig (8 Sep 2015)

I've noticed some folks have "repaired" turned vessels with some sort of resin, I wonder what they've used for this?


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## nicguthrie (8 Sep 2015)

That's one of those cases where foreknowledge is pretty much assumed, most of the examples I've seen state simply that they've filled it with "resin" or with "epoxy" and never elaborated. For those of us just starting out, that gets frustrating! 

One of the first times I heard of it was a guy on youtube doing a gorgeous job of filling holes and cracks in a beautiful Yew tabletop with black resin for sheer classiness, and his was the first to simply say it was "epoxy" - started me on my quest, I'm still not a lot better informed!

Nic.


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## Dalboy (8 Sep 2015)

nicguthrie":obbwczg8 said:


> Nice setup! Looks like you've a lot more space than me in your workshop
> 
> Careful if the police ever look in the window, those 1" tubes look a lot like small pipe-bombs!
> 
> ...



Using the tubes uses less resin than the block but you get a more controlled mix with the block. From the 1Kg of polyester resin I got 13 X 3/4" blanks. The smaller quantity you buy the dearer they work out but is ideal for getting use to casting. The next time I order resin I will go for the 5 Kg and spend a week or so casting all of it in different colours. Not sure when that will be yet as I still have some blanks which I have not yet turned see picture









woodpig":obbwczg8 said:


> I've noticed some folks have "repaired" turned vessels with some sort of resin, I wonder what they've used for this?



As we said earlier Wests which is an epoxy is better for filling as it does not shrink as much


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## nicguthrie (8 Sep 2015)

Those blanks look pretty sweet Dalboy, the bottom two have a lovely "stained glass" type appearance to the colours. Have you thought about selling some?

Sorry, if it seemed I'd not taken in the details about West System being good for filling, I had, it was just the colours on offer from their official range is rather poor with grey, blue, black or white seemingly the only options. Reading thru the pages of other additives tho, it seems that the stuff has a fairly good tolerance for inert colloidal or particulate additives, some of the stuff they sell to add go in at up to 20% of the final mix, way over what I'd assume you'd need for a colour powder or something. The graphite powder goes in at up to 10% or something, and I'd imagine would give a great solid black at that level.

If you like, woodpig, I'll see if I can beg a sample of the west's stuff from my mate, and try out those mica pigments in it, see if it works for certain? It'd be one way to get me off my butt and committed to actually giving it a go!

Nic.


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## woodpig (8 Sep 2015)

I guessing that for filling holes etc a more fluid mix with just liquid pigment would probably be best? For casting perhaps any pigment will do.


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## Dalboy (8 Sep 2015)

Nic all the above blanks were made using Mica powder they are very small amounts for the money but you at least get one of each in the advert for £7.50.

If you can get some wests epoxy to try with the mica powder then even better just try a small amount to start with the less powder you use the more chance of it being translucent .

As for selling them I don't make enough of them to sell just make them for my own use as I spend as much time woodworking as it is for therapy due to heart problems


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## Dalboy (8 Sep 2015)

woodpig":m55714x2 said:


> I guessing that for filling holes etc a more fluid mix with just liquid pigment would probably be best? For casting perhaps any pigment will do.



It all depends on the size of the hole or fault to be filled this is something that would need some experimenting


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## Robbo3 (8 Sep 2015)

woodpig":elquitz8 said:
 

> I've noticed some folks have "repaired" turned vessels with some sort of resin, I wonder what they've used for this?


Inlace possibly ?
- http://www.inlaceonline.com/
- http://www.turners-retreat.co.uk/finish ... ive/inlace


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## woodpig (9 Sep 2015)

Robbo3":2kwohm4u said:


> Inlace possibly ?
> - http://www.inlaceonline.com/
> - http://www.turners-retreat.co.uk/finish ... ive/inlace



Not at those prices. 4oz for £20! :?


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