# Scheppach HMS260 Planer/Surfacer



## gwaithcoed (23 Feb 2005)

I had to move my planer to my garage while I had a new roof on my little workshop.and I did more dragging and tugging, than lifting and carrying, since its return I am finding it is not surface planing true as before. As the timber leaves the adjustable table it leaves a slight scallop in the last 3/4 inch of timber. Can anyone advise me on the procedure to set up the planer surfaces please.????? Heres Hoping Alan Daft


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## Argee (23 Feb 2005)

Sounds like the infeed table is too high/outfeed too low (whichever method your planer uses), so that when the stock passes over the cutters, it then goes "downhill" to the outfeed table. Once the last 3/4" passes over the cutter and is denied the support of the infeed, it takes a dive, giving you the result you describe. To start setting up, both tables need to be in line, which shouldn't remove anything from the stock. A straightedge should be all that's necessary to confirm this, then ease the infeed table down accordingly.

Ray.


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## trevtheturner (24 Feb 2005)

Hi,


Welcome to the Forum!

Cheers,

Trev.


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## Aragorn (24 Feb 2005)

Hi Alan. Welcome to the forum
Please tell me you didn't drag/carry the planer by its tables??!!
The weight of the machine can bow the tables, leaving you with the un-fixable problem of bow in everything you plane   (DAMHIKT :roll: )
The snipe you're getting at the end of the board is as Argee says, and should be easily fixable.
Do your instructions give the procedure for setting the tables?
If not (or not adequately) it might be best to phone NMA Agencies who deal with Scheppach in the UK. They can send you more detailed instructions on adjusting the machine, which is handy for future reference as well.

Hope it works out!


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## Chris Knight (24 Feb 2005)

I'd be surprised if you have actually distorted the tables - more likely that the smallish bolts holding the tables in position have slipped a bit.

See this post for NMA contact details
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... aner+table


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## gwaithcoed (24 Feb 2005)

Argee":3o43rd9t said:


> Sounds like the infeed table is too high/outfeed too low (whichever method your planer uses), so that when the stock passes over the cutters, it then goes "downhill" to the outfeed table. Once the last 3/4" passes over the cutter and is denied the support of the infeed, it takes a dive, giving you the result you describe. To start setting up, both tables need to be in line, which shouldn't remove anything from the stock. A straightedge should be all that's necessary to confirm this, then ease the infeed table down accordingly.
> 
> Ray.


Hi Ray, Thanks for your reply. A quick check shows both infeed and outfeed tables appear to dip to the cutter block. Will check further
Thanks Alan.


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## gwaithcoed (24 Feb 2005)

trevtheturner":293pnsc7 said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> Welcome to the Forum!
> ...


 Hi Trev, Thanks for the welcome Cheers Alan.


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## gwaithcoed (24 Feb 2005)

Aragorn":2ance9jm said:


> Hi Alan. Welcome to the forum
> Please tell me you didn't drag/carry the planer by its tables??!!
> The weight of the machine can bow the tables, leaving you with the un-fixable problem of bow in everything you plane   (DAMHIKT :roll: )
> The snipe you're getting at the end of the board is as Argee says, and should be easily fixable.
> ...


 Hi Aragorn, Thanks for your reply. No I didn't drag it by the tables, not all the way.. I do have some instructions for the problem I described it just says" Adjust the tables". I will try NMA as you suggest.
Thanks Alan.


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## gwaithcoed (24 Feb 2005)

waterhead37":15f7a8og said:


> I'd be surprised if you have actually distorted the tables - more likely that the smallish bolts holding the tables in position have slipped a bit.
> 
> See this post for NMA contact details
> https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... aner+table


 Hi, waterhead37 Thanks for your reply, am going to contact NMA for detailed instructions Thanks Alan.


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## Anonymous (28 Jun 2005)

I have this exact same problem with my Scheppach 260.

Will check out the tables really thoroughly tonight, but did you manage to resolve this on your own table Alan?


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## simuk (28 Jun 2005)

I have had the same problem, and its a real pain setting them up right. :evil: would never have have bought the machine if i knew the amount of hassle it is to get them set up right . even with the straightest straight edge in the world it can take hours to get them right.

Simon


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## Anonymous (28 Jun 2005)

Hi All, 
I had this problem myself and called NMA. They suggested that the cutter height was not correct. They told me there is a slight dip in the outfeed table by design so I would not be too worried about this. The lump of metal that is provided for setting the cutter height might not be the best. (Is that diplomatic enough?) 

I was told to use a piece of wood and make the marks on it only 1.5mm apart (approx). My piece of wood is the length of the outfeed table and I apply a small amount of pressure to it to make sure the cutter picks it up. The concept is that the cutter block picks up the piece of wood and moves it 1.5mm. I would admit that it is a little fiddly but it seems to work for me. 

I could of course be talking a load of b***s. 

Gareth


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## gwaithcoed (29 Jun 2005)

biglouie wrote


> but did you manage to resolve this on your own table Alan?


The answer is yes, I sent a PM to him along with a copy of my user manual for what its worth. If anyone else is interested this is how I fixed mine. Having owned the machine from new I knew that the problem arose after I had moved the machine to my garage while having a new roof put on to my workshop.Replys from the forum members pointed me to the problem that the outfeed table must be set too low(why didn't I think of that) Looking at the infeed table I couldn't see how that could have moved, it does have adjusters on it but it is also "staked", so from that I took it that this was in the correct position,and I would take all my references from that.
I purchased a 3ft straight edge (actually it was an aluminium spirit level) and placed it on the infeed table, and could see right away the the outfeed table was low.Checking with a feeler gauge it was about 2mil.
I then removed the blade guard, and slackened off the eccentric clamp so that the outfeed table was sitting on the adjusters. I then scribed a mark on all four adjusters so that if all went pear shaped I could at least go back to where I started from.

This is where you need lots of time and patience as its a matter of off with the table lift the adjusters ,back on again,check with the feelers, further adjust until you cannot get feelers between the straight edge and the outfeed table.

In my case it didn't take too long, I think what I had done was to lift on the outer end of the outfeed table which had pushed down on the adjusters nearest to the planer block.

After replacing the guard and tightening all the bolts,tried it and problem solved, There may be other ways of doing it but this worked for me.


Cheers Alan.


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## Manny (30 Jun 2005)

*simuk* wrote



> I have had the same problem, and its a real pain setting them up right. would never have have bought the machine if i knew the amount of hassle it is to get them set up right . even with the straightest straight edge in the world it can take hours to get them right.



I feel the same way - great machine except for setting the tables. Is it the same with the new cast iron tables?

agrajag you wrote "They told me there is a slight dip in the outfeed table by design" could you explain the dip - thanks

John


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## gwaithcoed (30 Jun 2005)

Manny wrote


> Is it the same with the new cast iron tables?


When I contacted NMA about my problem they indicated that it is far more difficult to set up the tables on the cast iron ones

Alan


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## Anonymous (30 Jun 2005)

Manny":215r7pwf said:


> *simuk* wrote
> agrajag you wrote "They told me there is a slight dip in the outfeed table by design" could you explain the dip - thanks
> 
> John


 
When I placed a straight edge on the table there was a slight dip. (fx: scurries off to get feeler gauges and straight edge) OK I am back now. I apologise for owning such a thing as a set of feeler gauges, however, I was originally an engineer. I will throw them in the bin forthwith. BTW you think that the wood working fraternity get into to tizzy over tools, techniques etc. Get three marine engineers in a room and you will 4 opinions! 

The dip is a massive 0.15mm at worst measure from corner to corner, front to back it is 0.10mm. 

I might possibly be missing the point here, but... I would have thought that as long as the outfeed table is parallel to the in feed table there should be no real issue. You do not need to have the infeed and out feed tables level with each other when the infeed is set to 0, it might be nice but I have yet to require a surfacing cut of 0. However if the cutters are not set up correctly with respect to the out feed table you are really going to have problems.


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## Manny (1 Jul 2005)

"I apologise for owning such a thing as a set of feeler gauges" - thats what I use, I'm not going to bin mine. Interesting and odd that it's designed with a slight dip in the outfeed table. 

John


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## Anonymous (2 Jul 2005)

ok, so now I have a manual, I have read this thread top to bottom over and over, I have a 1 meter straight edge and have spent a couple hours on the machine...

its really should have to be this hard...But I spose once its done it done..

Its still not done btw...


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## gwaithcoed (3 Jul 2005)

Hello biglouie, I know, I know, Tell me about it, been there, done that   but I forgot to mention in my earlier post that after you have set the outfeed table you must then readjust the planing knives as these will be set relative to the position that the table was in before
arajag wrote


> I might possibly be missing the point here, but... I would have thought that as long as the outfeed table is parallel to the in feed table there should be no real issue. You do not need to have the infeed and out feed tables level with each other when the infeed is set to 0, it might be nice but I have yet to require a surfacing cut of 0. However if the cutters are not set up correctly with respect to the out feed table you are really going to have problems.



You will never get a zero cut as the planer knives are always set slightly higher than the outfeed table when you use the setting gauge. As for surface planing as you say provided that the infeed and outfeed table are parallel there should be no problems. The problem arises on a P/T if the infeed table has moved down on one side, then the outfeed table is set parallel to it. the knives are then set to the outfeed table, when you come to use the thicknesser, this table will not be parallel to the surfacing tables and you will get a difference in thickness across the timber.

I think thats right,I hope its right ,if not     


Alan


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## simuk (7 Jul 2005)

Hi, all
Have been using the machine today, and my off button is sticking have to tap it a couple of times to get to turn off. Blown air over it but still sticking any ideas.

Simon


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## gwaithcoed (7 Jul 2005)

Hi simuk, I have the same problem on occasions, so I take a screwdriver and lever off the red button. Be aware you do not lose the return spring and behind there you will find a small space full of sawdust. I found the more you blow with your airline the worse it gets.

Hope this helps. Alan


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## simuk (9 Jul 2005)

Thanks, 
Alan will give that a go this afternoon.

Simon


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## Anonymous (1 Sep 2005)

Alan, hope youre still on the forum!

I am still having issues with the planer.

Both tables are level with each other according to my straight edge. Now i presume, and took from you post, that the knives now have to be set to be exactly the same height as the outfeed table at theior highest point?

Is that correct?


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## gwaithcoed (1 Sep 2005)

Hello Biglouie, If you look in the manual it shows a setting gauge. If you don't have one you can easily make one using a piece of hardwood.

Get a piece of 2" x 1" about 5" long. 7/8" from the right hand end draw a line. (Call it line one) Draw another line 1/8" to the left of this.(call this line two) Place the piece of wood on the OUTFEED table with line one exactly on the end of the table. Rotate the planer block in the direction of travel and when the blades are set correctly the block will be moved forward so that line two is moved to the end of the table.

What I tend to do is to set the blades low and secure them using the outside fixing screws, just enough pressure to hold them in place. Then using the jacking screws and the gauge ease the blade up until it moves the gauge into the correct position This has to be done each end of the planer block. Don't forget to tighten the other screws afterwards 




Hope this helps Alan.


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## simuk (19 Nov 2005)

Having problem again with the surface planer on this machine :evil: .

After tinkering about for an an hour think i have found the problem. The infeed table has a slight twist in it. Put a straight edge on the infeed table from length to to length and there is a 1.5mm dip in it, As i bring the straight edge from one edge to the other the dip disappears It is almost as if the table is to high in one corner. 

Hope this makes sense.

If anyone any idea on what i can do to overcome this? 

Simon


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## gwaithcoed (19 Nov 2005)

Sorry Simuk, can't help with this one. As I recall the infeed table is "staked" with 4 roll lock pins, would not have thought it possible to twist. Hope it dosn't happen with mine, had enough trouble getting rid of the dreaded snipe.

I'm sure someone will be along with a solution

Alan.


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## Carlow52 (31 May 2012)

I have just bought a new flat belt for the above and wonder how to fit it. The manual says for tightening the flat belt slightly loosen the screws holding the gearbox on the inside face of the frame: I presume thats the 2 bolts that are visible on the inside under the rise/fall table?
Thanks

In passing I see from the Scheppach threads that NMA or/and NMA Agencies were/are a useful source of info on this kit: is that still the case and if so do they have a website please?

01/06/2012.
To answer my own question, yes the 2 hex head bolts, take a 13 mm ring spanner, on the inside face of the machine behind the gearbox do indeed , when loosened, allow the gearbox to move and slip on the new flat belt.


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## Mike.S (1 Jun 2012)

NMA home page.

Richard Taylor (spares) there is usually helpful - direct email is Richard[at]nmauk.com


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