# Supporting doors when planing



## scooby (10 Nov 2006)

Does anyone know of a good homemade stand type thingy to support a door whilst planing? I'm a bit bored of holding planer in one hand and supporting the door with the other.

Thanks


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## Steve Maskery (10 Nov 2006)

If you have a Workmate you can hold the tp of the door in that whilst it is edgewise on the floor.


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## engineer one (11 Nov 2006)

not home made i know but qvc had a metal thingie which seemed ideal on the diy show a couple of weeks ago, not too expensive either.

otherwise the preferred method is a block with two upright shoulders slightly wider than a door, with a wedge to hold the door solid, and make two. memory tells me the bottom should be about 12 inches wide and made from 2 inch stock, and the shoulders should be about 4inches high.

couple of the murrican mags have had drawings recently
would think if you checked out taunton site and looked for fine homebuilding you would find a number in the hints dept.

paul :wink:


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## mailee (11 Nov 2006)

I use a couple of pieces of 3X2 with a housing cut into them and then a couple of wedges to hold the door edge into the housing, works fine for me and leaves my hands free to plane. :wink:


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## Colin C (11 Nov 2006)

I would do the same as Mailee but I will add that make one side of the housing angled to fit the wedge so that it does not mark the door.


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## Niki (11 Nov 2006)

Gary Katz made this foldable stand/bench 
http://www.garymkatz.com/Charts/doorbench2.htm 

niki


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## jasonB (11 Nov 2006)

I also use a bit of 3x2 hardwood with a wedge. Trend have just bought out a door holder, have a look at this thread on Screwfix

Jason


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## JFC (11 Nov 2006)

Trend ........... :roll: 
As Colin and others have said any block of wood with a groove and a wedge will do .


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## woodbloke (11 Nov 2006)

Workmate for me, holds a full size door without any problems for planing an edge - Rob


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## beejay (11 Nov 2006)

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Just in the middle of replacing 10 doors in the house and every one needs trimmed and planed.
I made these supports from 2x1 ans some ply. the base is approx 15" long as are the plywood uprights which are 4" tall. they are simply screwed to support blocks which are screwed and glued to the base.
The gap between the plywood uprights is 44mm to allow for the door and some of that foam packing that comes with shirts, this prevents the door panel from scratches etc.
Works a treat for planing the edges and also for routing out the hinge and latch recess.
If the piccies haven't come through, apologies but go to www.community.webshots.com/user/eunos9 and they are in the general album.
regards.
beejay


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## beejay (11 Nov 2006)

Whilst on the subject of doors, I bought some the other day, 10 to be precise, I went to B&Q and spotted their internal 6 panel at £19.98. Very cheap and they didnt look too good but it was their _entry_ price, pardon the pun.
I then went next door to Wickes whose entry price for a 6 panel was £26.50. but it did look and feel much better. I showed the B&Q price to the Wickes manager and asked if he would match the price and without hesitation he did, so I bought them from him saving myself a few quid, simply by asking.
What I didnt know about modern doors is that the solid wood frames are butt jointed and Stapled!, so don't cut too much off any one side!
Also, that the door edges are angled at 3 degrees, didnt know that either!
Finally, my Bosch Pro Jigsaw (£130.00)wouldnt cut straight without the blade wandering off or twisting so its now gone back to Bosch and I bought one of the Aldi cheapos which works extremely well and cuts straight without effort. Great buy at £13.00 
Sorry , didnt mean to Hijack.
beejay


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## engineer one (11 Nov 2006)

of course the major problem these days is that the painted doors that you buy ready made are also of this construction, and when you have to modify them to fit, you kind of ruin the idea of buying ready finished, since
you can never match the finish, and if you later change the handles you have a really big problem.

i first learnt about the small chamfer on one of norm's shows, but if you
think about it, it is logical that all doors that fit inside a frame need the leading edge planed back to ensure that it goes into the frame, since by definition it is the size of the door frame on the inside edge. it will therefore hit the outside of the jam first unless chamfered.

interesting that we are presently looking for a 10 panel glazed door, but the opaque glass is not as opaque as things used to be.

paul :wink:


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## jasonB (11 Nov 2006)

I bought 6No 6 panel doors from Magnet in the week fir £15.00 +VAt each works out at £17.63  and two 1'9" ones at £13 each

Jason


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## scooby (11 Nov 2006)

JFC":17l68g4z said:


> Trend ........... :roll:
> As Colin and others have said any block of wood with a groove and a wedge will do .



Just shows what a bad memory I have. Thats the system we used at college to hold doors and I'd totally forgot. It has been nearly 12 years since I finished at college though :wink: 

Thanks all, I'll get a couple of blocks and wedges made.


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## woodbloke (11 Nov 2006)

Scooby wrote;



> It has been nearly 12 years since I finished at college though



...wish I could say the same..  :roll: - Rob


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