# Mdf box, how to join sides?



## gc (1 Sep 2010)

Im going 2 make a couple of under bed box drawers as part of new bed. Going 2 use 15 or 18mm mdf for construction however what would b the best way 2 build the boxes? I was thinking of just joining all side panels using biscuits but wondered if better way 2 do it?
Plan 2 cut rebate 2 fit base.


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## devonwoody (1 Sep 2010)

I think beds get quite a lot of stress, so underdrawers should need a very robust construction.

Make drawers the old fashioned way with dovetails or finger jointing?


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## Steve Maskery (1 Sep 2010)

Biscuits should be fine. Just orient the joint so that the pull is across the biscuits, rather than in line with them. In a drawer that probably means making a false front.
What are you going to use for the bottoms? Bed drawers tend to be large, so make sure that your drawer bottom has enough anti-sag in its construction.

Cheers
Steve


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## petermillard (1 Sep 2010)

Just a thought, but if you don't want false fronts, you could always rebate the sides into the fronts; I've taken to doing this and using dominos through the side - yes, so it shows (FOG-ers will know this as a "domi-drawer")

Would work with dowels, but not biscuits, I think??

Pete


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## joiner_sim (1 Sep 2010)

I would join the drawers together with dowels. The sides should run from front to back, with the back and front cut in between. This method would mean a false front screwed from the back. A false front allows you to get a perfect fit looking from the outside.

I'd recommend using 18mm MDF for the sides and the bottoms, all dowelled together, with 8mm dowels!

Hope that helps :wink:


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## BTR (1 Sep 2010)

I would use the biscuit + glue method and then pocket hole screws to achieve solid joints


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## Jonzjob (2 Sep 2010)

Mitred corners with 2 or 3 slots cut across the mitre and a thin piece of hard wood strip glued into the them. Incredibly strong. A slot cut for the base and 10mm ply for the base. It won't be a heavy as all MDF and it will be as strong as you could get it. 

Fit a false front if you wish or just leave it as it is?


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## gc (3 Sep 2010)

Thanks for all the advise, think i will try the biscuits + glue with false fronts. Had planned 2 do base in mdf but may well look at plywood instead.


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## Benchwayze (4 Sep 2010)

Hi GC, 

Welcome to the forum. 

You can cut better joints in plywood, than in MDF. In the eighties I used marine-ply' for drawer-stuff when making built-in wardrobes etc. (It was cheaper than hardwood in those days!) 

For speed, I used a wobble-saw to cut finger joints, and pinned them with a vertical dowel on each corner, to stop the joints pulling apart, over time. When I got a dovetail-jig, I used that. No one ever complained about drawers falling apart. 

If you don't want to use solid wood, then pay a bit extra, for waterproof ply, instead of MDF. If you have a dovetail jig, use that. Most basic jigs can cut joints up to 12" (300mm) wide. You make the choice between lap-dovetails or through dovetails with a false front. :wink: 

HTH 

John


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## OldWood (6 Sep 2010)

I've just been to look at mine that were made approaching 40 years ago and show (at least the one I checked) no signs of failure.

Rebated, hot glue (I think - though it might have been cascamite) and lost head wire nails. I know it's nice to use 'decorative' joints, but who's going to see them at floor level in the bedroom ?

Rob

_Edit - a realise now of course that MDF may well not like that form of construction !! It woldn't have existed 40 years ago -oops._


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## Benchwayze (7 Sep 2010)

Hi Rob, 

A coincidence you mention rebates and lost head nails. 

About the same time you did yours, I made a three drawer drill-support out of what was then 7/8" ply. (25mm these days I suppose). 

I rebated and nailed the drawers like you did. I think I used floorboard nails, but I must have got a bad batch of glue, because my drawers didn't last! :lol: 

In the end I re-glued and used screws to attach the fronts. 

But as you say, for workshop stuff and the like, as you say, it isn't necessary to use fancy joints. It's nice, but not a requirement! 
Cheers
John


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## RogerS (7 Sep 2010)

I wouldn't use MDF. Given the amount of stuff put into under-bed drawers and particularly if they are used a lot then I reckon something will fail sooner or later.

I'd got for plywood. Also think about some sort of plastic or similarly smooth surface for them to slide on. Physios' make a lot of money out of people struggling to pull open heavy drawers at floor level.


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## devonwoody (7 Sep 2010)

Roger that comment about opening drawers at floor level nearly gave me apoplexy, I used to suffer with drawer problems when I was younger.

LOL


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## Tim Nott (12 Sep 2010)

For MDF, biscuits alternated with Spax MDF screws work well for us on carcasses


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