# Finishing Oak



## Waka (6 Apr 2004)

Hi All

Just in the process of finishing off a floor to ceiling cabinet, bookcase above , cupboards below. It is made of American White Oak.

The problem I have is the final finish. Don't want to use varnish, unsure about lacquer (never used it before). Thought I'd use Lieberon Fininshing Oil followed by waxing, will this work or do I need something more substantial?

Waka


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## Aragorn (6 Apr 2004)

Hi Waka
That will be fine.

A


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## Adam (6 Apr 2004)

I use Danish oil, followed by wax on nearly everything I make.

Your suggestion sounds fine.

Adam


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## Alf (6 Apr 2004)

Waka,

Sounds just the ticket. (Convinced yet?  )

Cheers, Alf


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## trevtheturner (6 Apr 2004)

Waka,

If it helps - I concur.
Let us know what you eventually decide to use!!!!!!!!!!!

Trev.


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## Anonymous (6 Apr 2004)

First serious piece I made was a telephone table in american white oak with 3 coats of danish oil...couple of years of abuse now and still looks as new


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## Signal (6 Apr 2004)

Now while not oak, I have finished a couple of bits in Tung oil

A wardrobe and a linen basket.

they have been suitably bashed, crayoned on by the youngest, and tortured but they still look like new.

With the wardrobe i slapped a couple of coats of poly on top as its a bit on the old whiffy side and SWMBO was moaning about smelling like cat sick all the time.

It was the "quick" drying stuff but still seemed to take and age to dry

Although the poly helped to cut the pong I found that with the poly over the top it went a bit yellow. It hasn't with out and neither has the plain poly either so i guess there must be something chemically going on between the poly and oil. Knowing my luck it is generating some evil toxins and we will all wake up one day with two heads.

Cheers

Signal


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## Waka (6 Apr 2004)

Thanks 

Finishing Oil and wax it is. Might post a picture when its finished as long as no one laughs.

Waka


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## Aragorn (6 Apr 2004)

Waka":1fb4kdw7 said:


> Finishing Oil and wax it is.


What eventually brought you to that decision :?: :wink: 

A


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## Waka (6 Apr 2004)

Aragorn

I guess the first four replies concured with finishing oil and wax. Also a large tin of finishing oil was given as a present, so it seems a shame not to waste it.

I have to admit I'm a novice when it comes to finishing, in thepast I've tended to take the easy route and use varnish, but rading through a lot of the threads regarding Finishing, I realise that there are lots more options out there that will give a more superior finish than varnish.

Waka


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## Bean (8 Apr 2004)

Waka
I took the good advice from here to finish a White Oak table top with Oil Looks very good when its finished.

Bean


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## Anonymous (9 Apr 2004)

Fellow Dust Makers

As has been suggested earlier in this threads I have finished my first book cabinet off with finishing oil and wax. The wax I am using is Black Bison Clear (lovely smell). 

My question is after three coats of finishing oil, rubbed down after each coat with 0000 wire wool and a good coat of Bison Clear Wax. The finish although good is not as smooth as the finish(sanded to 320 grit) before oiling and waxing.

What am I doing wrong.

Bean if you see this, did you get the plans ?

Waka


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## Waka (9 Apr 2004)

Sorry Guys forgot to log in.

Help required in the above.

Waka


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## Aragorn (9 Apr 2004)

I suppoese there are a number of possibles! I hope some other people chip in with ideas too.
When you say it's not as smooth as before finishing do you mean it's gritty (as in dust/particles settling on the finish) or grainy (as in the finish has affected the grain and 0000 wire wool wasn't sufficent to smooth it back) or wavy (as in the finish has enhanced the imperfections in your smoothing - you know assuming there are some!!!).
I would say that 3 coats of oil is a bare minimum.
Also, avoid using wire wool with oak - it can react with the wood and create stains.
Make sure you're using a good cotton rag to apply the oil, so as not to deposit any lint into the finish.

Just some ideas to get you going...!

Cheers
Aragorn


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## Waka (10 Apr 2004)

Thanks Aragorn

It seemed to be a bit gritty, I guess this was a result of the wire wool. Went back to basics and lightly rubbed down with 320 paper between coats, now a beautiful smooth finish.

Thanks all for the advice, it has helped. Now working on number two cabinet.

waka.


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## Chris Knight (10 Apr 2004)

Waka,

You seem to have got the result you wanted thanks to Aragorn. As he says don't use wire wool on oak, especially bare wood - when the bits of iron that come off will surely react with the tannins to create black stains. You can then learn to bleach them with oxalic acid of course!

I hate wire wool and have given up on it totally. It self destructs and puts a dust/grit of iron onto any workpiece and some is oily to boot. In all cases of wood finishing I reckon there is a better substitute except for making iron buff (rusty nails or wire wool and vinegar - for staining).

Re finishing oils like Danish oil or Liberon. Don't forget that these are really extremely long oil varnishes, that is they are drying oils like Linseed or Tung with an admixture of resins. Consequently, the dried results are not unlike a varnished surface and need to be/can be treated very similarly, eg by fine sanding between coats.


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## Waka (11 Apr 2004)

Chris

I guess I've learnt the hard way. With Lieberon oil is does say rub down with wirewool betwen coats, as I did. My mistake never believe the label.

Now finishing unit No2 and tactics have changed thanks to this forum.

Please bare with me because I believe there's no such thing as a supid question.

Waka.


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## Learner Les (30 Apr 2004)

Perhaps I should have started a new thread instead of using this one but my question sort of follows on. 
I am very new to wood mangling and this is my first non MDF project.
What is the best finish for a small Oak table which will be used (and probally left all summer) outside on the patio ?


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## gidon (30 Apr 2004)

I generally use to Danish Oil to finish oak - and always rub the last coat in with 0000 wire wool as the Rustins tin suggests. I've never had any problems. Although I did notice now they recommend rubbing the last coat in with a scouring spounge or wire wool if I remember correctly!
Good to hear some finishing tips though - doesn't get discussed enough. 
Cheers
Gidon


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## Alf (30 Apr 2004)

Ooo! Ooo! Not wire wool - see Chris' post above. Dunno why the blurb on finishes persist with recommending it. :? 

Cheers, Alf


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## Chris Knight (30 Apr 2004)

For real durability it's hard to beat the Sikkens range (avaliable from most places like Travis Perkins etc. and if you want a clear coat rather than a stain/pigmented variety you could use the Sirca products http://www.morrells-woodfinishes.com/Joinery.pdf

I can speak for Sikkens having used it. I have not used the Sirca stuff but I have used a lot of other Morrells stuff and it's good.

You can also leave oak to weather to a silvery grey without any finish at all. Don't forget that for outside furniture you need to use waterproof glue and it's best to pin your joints.


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## Anonymous (30 Apr 2004)

Not used it on oak, but i've done all my garden furniture with Rustins "Garden Furniture Oil" - i think it contains some additional additives for outdoor use but goes on just like danish oil. 

I've a tin of danish oil - can't remember the make - that suggests a plastic pan scourer for applying the final coat. 

As for the wire wool, I was under the impression that it is OK for most timbers, its just oak that is the problem as it reacts to iron/steel...same with screws and nails

m


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## Jim (3 May 2004)

I always use 1200 grit between coats and 000 before final coat, I also use a tack cloth before applying anything, works for me


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