# Brown oak coffee table.



## mtr1 (10 Jan 2012)

Been a while since I posted a project, anyway here is one I'm doing at present...


I have had this board of oak for some time, always with a mind to making a coffee table when I moved into my house. Anyway here's a few wip pics.

Start with a rough board, and cut to length for the top, legs, and rails.












I did toy with the idea of leaving the wane on but would be left with rough edges, so with my 2yr old running about I thought not.






This board still has plenty of character, with some large splits to deal with.






Better start stiching...











Now to stablise the splits using west's system epoxy resin.






And pour..






I need to stand over this and prick all the air bubbles coming up, and then re-pour the voids left behind.






You have a window of about 20 mins so make sure you have enough to re-fill any voids.






All done..






Onto the base..
















Thats about as far as I've got so far, thanks for looking.


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## worsley947 (10 Jan 2012)

Looking good so far and what lovley grain
cant wait for the finnished look


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## munkypuzel (10 Jan 2012)

Really interesting project,

What have you used to make the stitches? Cant wait to see the finished resin finish!


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## Goodwithwood (10 Jan 2012)

Looking good!  That west systems stuff is good gear! The epoxy coating with burnishing cream comes up lovely... and its bullet proof too!


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## xy mosian (10 Jan 2012)

Who'd have thought a repair could look so classy. I like the line of dickie bows.

xy


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## Racers (10 Jan 2012)

Hi, Mark

Very nice, but isn't that tiger oak not brown?

Very George Nakashima.

I have been filling pippy oak with a mix of epoxy and ground instant coffee for colouring.

Pete


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## Chems (10 Jan 2012)

Its a bit late probably but maybe for next time, apparently if you lightly heat gun the epoxy as its going off it will remove the air bubbles giving you a clear finish. I think lightly is the operative word!

I also think you should call this piece - Open Heart Surgery. 

Looking forward to seeing the update.


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## mtr1 (10 Jan 2012)

Thanks guys, I'm also toying with the idea of getting it professionaly photographed when complete in a studio, though it does seem a bit poncy.



Racers":1obpwhrd said:


> Hi, Mark
> 
> Very nice, but isn't that tiger oak not brown?
> 
> ...



Hmmmm I'm not sure, the top is quite stripy but the legs(cut from the same board) are all very brown. I don't like coloring fillers, though I see the need sometimes.



Chems":1obpwhrd said:


> Its a bit late probably but maybe for next time, apparently if you lightly heat gun the epoxy as its going off it will remove the air bubbles giving you a clear finish. I think lightly is the operative word!
> 
> I also think you should call this piece - Open Heart Surgery.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing the update.



I have tried with a heat gun before, and it does work. Just didn't on this because its only tichy.


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## Paul Chapman (10 Jan 2012)

That's looking really good, Mark.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## RogerM (10 Jan 2012)

That's a really interesting way to deal with split character oak. Thanks for posting Mark. Looking forward to the rest of the write-up.


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## soulboy (10 Jan 2012)

Looking very nice, Mark, i love the butterflies and the way they wander following the crack. what wood have you used for them?
chris


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## Dodge (10 Jan 2012)

Thats coming along really nicely - I would be another one voting for Tiger Oak though, although I must admit have had some brown oak in the past which has been quite mottled.

Did you hand cut your dovetail keys of use a router and jig??


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## Escudo (10 Jan 2012)

That is really nice Mark. Brown oak is just fab.

Well done, Tony.

PS - must organise that pint sometime.


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## mtr1 (11 Jan 2012)

Thanks guys, the timber for the butterfly's is Ebony, and I roughed out the shapes with a router after marking them out with a knife. Then chiseled to the knife lines, the keys are 15 mm thick.

Tony a pint would be good!!! or just pop in and see me.


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## mtr1 (11 Jan 2012)

Need to sand off all the excess resin now, so started with a 40g brilliant.






Then worked up to 240g Granat.











Then on to polishing, hard wax oil...of course.












The resin looks a bit cloudy here, but is quite clear in the flesh.






Close up of the hand-cut butterfly key.






Side view.






Finished.






I think I will get some studio shots done at some point then get these pic's up on my website. Thanks for looking.


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## woodbloke (11 Jan 2012)

I might be missing something here, but I can't see the reason for tipping West gloop down the cracks :? If you have a look at a George Nakashima piece:






...the cracks are so wide it would be impossible anyway! :lol: Simply the addition of the ebony (very nicely done) 'flutterbyes' is enough (in my view at least) to stabilise the whole thing anyway. Further, the interior of the cracks on your table top will probably be 'dirty' (as in 'been there for a long time') so the adhesion of the glue to those surfaces is questionable anyway? - Rob


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## Paul Chapman (11 Jan 2012)

That finished table looks fabulous, Mark - I really like it.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (11 Jan 2012)

It looks good in it's entirety now it's finished, but for me, it looks a little 'top heavy' as if the framing needs to be larger dimensionally (not the thickness sections of the legs) all round to compensate for the thick top....so looks to me like there's too much overhang on the top. Again, it's a personal thing, but I wouldn't round over the edges nearly as much - Rob


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## disco_monkey79 (11 Jan 2012)

I love that table, very nice work.

Out of curiousity, would the resin alone stabilise splits like those, or does it need to be combined with the butterflies?


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## woodbloke (11 Jan 2012)

disco_monkey79":1wwf51nh said:


> I love that table, very nice work.
> 
> Out of curiousity, would the resin alone stabilise splits like those, or does it need to be combined with the butterflies?


The resin isn't doing anything except filling the gap. If there were just resin on it's own (no butterflies) further shrinkage in the top would probably cause a gap to open up next to the polyester infill. It's the butterflies that are stabilising the construction but they'll still allow a degree of movement within the crack (assuming that the resin wasn't there) - Rob


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## MickCheese (11 Jan 2012)

I like the table, I would have preferred the resin to be stained black to link the butterflies, which I absolutely love.

I agree with Rob about the round-over being a bit excessive but it is each to their own. I liked the shape of the edge in one of the top pictures where it is sharper.

Can I ask, how thick are the butterflies?

Mick


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## RogerM (11 Jan 2012)

Well, in the interest of balance, I really like the rounded edges to the table top. It should make it very tactile and of course be kind on the shins for those bumping in to it. I also like the resin infill in preference to leaving the cracks open to get filled in with biscuit crumbs and peanuts! :lol: Not sure whether i would prefer the resin to be left clear or to be stained black - but I would reserve judgement until seeing the actual piece. Overall, I love it.


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## mtr1 (12 Jan 2012)

Thanks for the positive, and the not so thoughts on this table.

A couple of points I would like to make, firstly I have used this method for more than ten years and have a very practical knowledge of it. So with that in mind, I think it will be OK. The resin I have used is epoxy and not polyester, and anyone who has used epoxy knows it sticks like .... rather than poly which is used as a casting resin so will release after time. I cleaned the cracks out first before pouring, though they were very clean anyway with just a few loose splinters that were blown out with the aid of a airline with a needle attached. 

The method of using butterflies is not new, and has been used by restorers for a long time, which is where I directly copied it from, again from having practical knowledge of this method and having seen it used on a 17th century oak sideboard when I was a lad. As for the point about using black stained resin, its rather moot, because it looks black until you get 6" from it anyway because no light can penetrate from the bottom.

Now onto filling larger areas, this is possible and I have done it here though my work isn't displayed, unless you care to explore Johns site and look for the victory range of tables..... I made the first four. It was a long time ago when John first came up with this method, and as far as I know these items are still OK. I will say that what I have shown here is a very easy pour, however they haven't always been so. A lot of time and Johns money was used in getting the method down for large pours, and I wouldn't recommend it for a novice.

I made this table with my children in mind, hence the more rounded feel, but would have done it this way because I don't like sharp edges anyway. The proportions are right in mine and my wife's eyes as we look at the piece right here and now, and thats what important. Thanks for everyones interest.


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## Paul Chapman (12 Jan 2012)

Thanks for the additional comments about the resin technique, Mark. I've seen it used a few times and think it looks great in the right situation. I might give it a go some time.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## bobscarle (12 Jan 2012)

I have to say that I think the table looks great. The top is done in a way I would never of though of. I'd have probably not used that piece which, when you look at it now, would be a shame. Excellent piece.

Bob


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## gardenshed (12 Jan 2012)

Mark, thanks for the photo's, I've not seen the West epoxy used like that before.
I really like the finished table too.

=D> =D> =D>


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## condeesteso (12 Jan 2012)

Very nice indeed. Can I also question if it's brown oak. I have a board of 'brown' in the workshop and it is darker and more brown than yours. The guy at the mill I got it from told me the brown was caused by some form of fungal infection - beefsteak fungus growing on the tree when live (I just read). Maybe the colour varies anyway??


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## mtr1 (13 Jan 2012)

I guess the top is tiger oak, but a couple of legs are fairly brown......so with that in mind its a very rare brotiger table.


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## dh7892 (13 Jan 2012)

I really like that piece. Right up my street and a great way to show of the character of the wood. 

It's something I will bear in mind next time I find a split in some wood.

I knew about dovetail keys before but I hadn't considered the idea of putting them centre-stage like that.

Really good job.


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## mtr1 (27 Jan 2012)

Just got some nicer images done for the website...












































Bit nicer than my crappy efforts anyway.


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## fluffflinger (27 Jan 2012)

Love it. Nice use of a well figured and interesting board. Made me wonder if in discarding similar boards in the past I've missed some opportunities.

Thanks for sharing.


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## MickCheese (27 Jan 2012)

Wow

The better photo's make it look like a different piece. Sorry not trying to knock your photography but that makes the table look so much better.

I see it in a different light and like it so much more, well done.

Mick


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## urbanarcher (28 Jan 2012)

Really do like this Piece its got me itching to get back in the workshop! I'm thinking the concept might work for a long really slim console table for my hall. The timber yards will sell some if their split boards because of this post Mark! Love the pictures they're Amazing! I think they really do show the subtle refined beauty of this table to its fullest.
To quote Hancock "Good job".


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## woodbloke (28 Jan 2012)

As I said earlier, it looks good, but even with the studio pics, the design doesn't do a great deal for me...sorry  - Rob


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## Melinda_dd (29 Jan 2012)

I love it!!! as others have said, I wouldn't have touched a bit of wood like that... opened up my eyes, that's for sure!!!
=D> =D>


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## mtr1 (30 Jan 2012)

Thanks guys, it makes a change being able to keep something I've made. It was made to mine and my wife's wishes, we are very happy with it, my two year old has wasted no time claiming it for assembling puzzles, and has put a nice patina on it already. Now back to furniture making for clients, where I have less control on what I make


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## Phil Pascoe (24 Apr 2013)

=D> Mark, I assume you sold the table, but do you know whether it has moved much? I'd love to do something similar for kitchen worktops.


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