# Not so good, can't make an apple :(



## woodfarmer (13 May 2014)

Today I thought I would try to make an apple, not so easy as I thought, although I was getting a really nice polished finish straight of the tool on the piece of generic construction softwood.
Barrel shapes yes, cones, door knobs and all manner of shapes but nothing convincingly apple shaped.
Will try again but not tomorrow.. I hope to finally tackle the Acacia branch in the lane and maybe even chainsaw some blanks.

I am glad I decided to do a few practice ones before risking any good wood.


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## Tazmaniandevil (14 May 2014)

It's not as easy as it looks. Some of my early attempts are unrecognisable as fruit.  The stalk helps.
Remember too though, apples are organic and no too are the same. Try taking a real apple into the workshop maybe?


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## gregmcateer (14 May 2014)

It's on my 'to attempt' list.
Whack 'turning an apple' into google / youtube and you'll get loads of videos to get an idea.
Do show us the results, (including the rotten ones!)


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## Grahamshed (14 May 2014)

Its on my 'to do' list as well, as is just about everything else you can think of.
Looking forward to seeing the Acacia branch when you get it down, lovely looking wood.


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## Bodrighy (14 May 2014)

I am in the same boat. I can do all sorts of things but fruit? sorry, just can't get the shape right. Definitely a knack to it which I don't have. 

Pete


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## paulm (14 May 2014)

It is surprisingly difficult to get a convincing apple shape, pears and eggs likewise I find !

Usually takes a few go's to get the eye in and then you're away 

Cheers, Paul


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## jpt (14 May 2014)

Fruit can be difficult to turn especially as everyone seems to have a different ideal shape.

I struggled when I first attempted it then made a template which makes things much easier, ther is a WIP on my site http://www.woodturned.co.uk/html/apples.html

john


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## Grahamshed (14 May 2014)

Thats a very good guide John, and an interesting web site, bookmarked.


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## Vic Perrin (14 May 2014)

I quite enjoy making fruit . I have not perfected it yet but I am starting to get the hang of it by plenty of practice. The knack is to make yourself some decent small screw chucks. After finishing the top of the apple in a standard chuck I reverse the apple onto a screw chuck to finish the bottom of the apple. I recently had to shorten an oak church pew to fit into my sons hallway, with the bits that were left over I made a small oak plate and a few bits of fruit. The picture quality is not to good.

Vic


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## Grahamshed (14 May 2014)

I like that Vic, very nice.


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## Random Orbital Bob (14 May 2014)

nice leaves as well as the shape Vic


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## Dalboy (14 May 2014)

I have had a go at an apple and a pear and the first attempt was good and would grace anyone's table, so I thought that I would do a fruit bowl full of them. The bowl was OK but can I turn more fruit to match the first NO WAY so I put it down to pure luck that the first came out OK.
It was a bit like turning the egg last month that was harder than I thought even for what seemed an easy shape.


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## MauriceD (14 May 2014)

I know it costs but I learnt how to turn fruit with a DVD from Andy Lodge called "Turning For Results, Fruit Turning Masterclass.
It covers apples pears cherries oranges and plums. Hope this helps. You may find it listed on Ebay


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## Vic Perrin (14 May 2014)

Dalboy":cu4olupj said:


> I have had a go at an apple and a pear and the first attempt was good and would grace anyone's table, so I thought that I would do a fruit bowl full of them. The bowl was OK but can I turn more fruit to match the first NO WAY so I put it down to pure luck that the first came out OK.
> It was a bit like turning the egg last month that was harder than I thought even for what seemed an easy shape.




Go and buy a bag of apples and pears and have a look at them. None are the same shape they all have their own natural shape. I am sure that if you had filled the bowl with turned fruit they would have looked great.

Vic


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## Bodrighy (14 May 2014)

Can't remember who it was, might have been DuncanH, turned a bowl of fruit ranging from lemons through to grapes. he did them all in appropriate coloured woods, looked really great. See if I can find it later when I have a moment. Must dash. Workshop to clean for a student tomorrow.

Pete


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## Vic Perrin (14 May 2014)

Bowl of mixed fruit !


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## Spindle (14 May 2014)

Hi

The issue with turning fruit is that in it's natural form fruit is not symmetrical about it's axis - any attempt from the lathe will be, (I suppose eccentric turning and blending could be used to get around this), it's always going to be a compromise between effect and accuracy.

Regards Mick


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## Grahamshed (14 May 2014)

Anyone know how to put an appropriate smell into wooden fruit that will last more than just a few hours ?

Please note. I said 'APPROPRIATE SMELL'


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## Richard Findley (14 May 2014)

I did a WIP years ago on here.... Found it, here you go:

fruit-wip-t38385.html

My advice is to spend a bit of time at the supermarket or grocers and find what you consider a 'perfect' Apple and pear, then take them back to the workshop and study them. Look at where curves start and finish, how deep the dimples in the ends are etc etc. make notes and then try again. It's quite an interesting exercise to really study something you thought you already knew very well. 

I look at some peoples apples and wonder if they've every actually seen one!!

Hope that helps

Richard


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## Tazmaniandevil (14 May 2014)

Richard Findley":3g40a43x said:


> I look at some peoples apples and wonder if they've every actually seen one!!


Ah..., you've seen some of mine then..... 
I always start off with a shape in mind, then make a mistake (design opportunity) and it all goes horribly un-apple shaped.


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## Tazmaniandevil (14 May 2014)

Just to prove you're not alone. This was my best effort ever from about 18 months ago.





This was also when I first started experimenting with shellac, and made the mistake of applying it while the lathe was spinning. I even showed the torn grain.
Chin up.


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## KimG (14 May 2014)

For smell I drill a small hole in the base and stick a clove in it, it works for apples and pears.


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## procell (14 May 2014)

There must be something strange about me as I found turning my apple for the pierced challenge to be fairly simple. I did leave a small bub on the top to look like a snapped stalk and the bottom was a bit of work to sand the end grain smooth but I was happy with the end result.


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## Grahamshed (14 May 2014)

If you made two would it be a pear of apples ?

Coat


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## woodfarmer (14 May 2014)

Grahamshed":1vr2tsmi said:


> Its on my 'to do' list as well, as is just about everything else you can think of.
> Looking forward to seeing the Acacia branch when you get it down, lovely looking wood.



This is where it came off






the haul






and the yew cut on its way to becoming blanks and bits.


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## Grahamshed (14 May 2014)

If you stuck one of those branches in the channel and gave it a tiny little push with your left toe....... I could pick it up on this side


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## Woodchips2 (14 May 2014)

I found the best guide was to put a real apple on top of the headstock so you have something to refer to when turning.

Regards Keith


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## Random Orbital Bob (14 May 2014)

That's what I've just done. Bit of oak burr,,,oh the figure is stunning. Got the the top right but haven't yet parted it off so it'll have to wait till tomorrow now.

This "just observing natures curves up close" works really well I have to say.


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## Grahamshed (14 May 2014)

just so long as it doesn't end up like Apples apple.


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## woodfarmer (14 May 2014)

Grahamshed":33fguvf1 said:


> If you stuck one of those branches in the channel and gave it a tiny little push with your left toe....... I could pick it up on this side



It is all one branch 

hope the bottom bit will make some small to medium bowl blanks.


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## Woodmonkey (14 May 2014)

That looks very much like robinia (false acacia)


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## Random Orbital Bob (14 May 2014)

Right then. Got the kids to bed and managed to finish off the apple.

I've done a few now and they're all wrong as many of you have experienced. Tonight I decided to let Mother nature be the guide a la the design discussions. So in these pics from left to right:

oak burr turned tonight having copied as best I could the real apple (gala) in the middle. In particular I feel I got the top curve and dimple about right. Not quite as rounded as the real apple and because I parted it off, the bottoms rubbish as no reverse turning. The darker oak apple on the right is one I did a couple weeks back by just hallucinating an apple ie no input from any kind of model. (And as you can see its totally wrong, more like a half pear in fact).

The surprises were, the rounding over from the body to the dimple is much "flatter" than you'd expect and the dimple is way deeper. The stalk by the way is just a real twig that I hand cut and mounted in a drilled hole. Didn't have time to turn a stem.

The darker oak on the right is yet more of that 1987 hurricane wood batch. What a difference in shade to the burr on the left. You'd hardly know they're the same species would you?

Interesting design experiment I must say. That design thread from the other day is really affecting the way I approach the work.


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## Woodmonkey (14 May 2014)

There is a fungus which affects oak trees called beef steak fungus (fistulina Something) which imparts a lovely chocolatey brown colour to the heart wood (just before it rots it away!), I suspect that is what you have there Bob on the piece on the right


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## Random Orbital Bob (14 May 2014)

well that would make perfect sense because that tree had been down and dead for nearly 30 years. I got about 20 foot from the butt upwards and its got radial cracks almost to the core except for only really low down. (where the trunk was thickest) So a lot of it has regrettably ended in the wood burner.

When I first started turning it I thought it was going like bog oak.


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## Richard Findley (14 May 2014)

IMHO the depth of the stalk hole (for want of a better name) is what lets most wooden fruit down. 

Looking good Bob. My only suggestion would be to make the widest point about 6mm above centre. 

Cheers

Richard

Ps I love brown oak!!


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## Random Orbital Bob (14 May 2014)

thanks Richard. So with the widest point higher than centre it gives a higher "shoulder". Like a granny smith more would you say?

Do you reverse turn yours with a screw chuck?

And what do folks use for the opposite end of the stalk, the little sepal type leaf end.


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## Tazmaniandevil (15 May 2014)

The one in the middle is very good. Looks very lifelike........

I reverse chuck the apples on a screw chuck using the stalk hole to mount. Stick a bit of router mat between the apple and the screw chuck to help prevent damage. Some folks stick a clove up the bum end to finish them off.
I use random twigs from bushes as stalks at the top end.


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## gregmcateer (15 May 2014)

Bob,

That's a massive improvement - well done. Now we're all going to be out there trying to make apples !!

Richard, I tried your link to your WIP and couldn't get anywhere - Does Richard or anyone else know how to get it?

TIA

Greg


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## Tazmaniandevil (15 May 2014)

Pop the fruit-wip-t38385.html at the end of ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/ to make https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/fruit-wip-t38385.html mate. That should do it.


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## Random Orbital Bob (15 May 2014)

Tazmaniandevil":253x0vhl said:


> The one in the middle is very good. Looks very lifelike........
> 
> I reverse chuck the apples on a screw chuck using the stalk hole to mount. Stick a bit of router mat between the apple and the screw chuck to help prevent damage. Some folks stick a clove up the bum end to finish them off.
> I use random twigs from bushes as stalks at the top end.



The first time I turned apples I did it with a screw chuck using the method you describe. It turned fine for the first side but when I reversed it I couldn't for the life of me get it to run true. So I've been turning them using the simpler parting off method since and that simply doesn't produce a proper finished piece due to the lack of the underside dimple.

So I guess I need to get good at screw chucking or I'll never crack it properly.


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## Richard Findley (15 May 2014)

The other method is using a deep cup chuck, similar to one sometimes used for turning balls. It does mean all your apples have to be exactly the same size though, so not a viable option for me. 

When mounting on the screw chuck, use the tailstock to guide the apple onto the screw, and initially support it with the tailstock while you remove the bulk, then you're good to go. A slight run off doesn't really matter though. 

For padding between the screw chuck and apple, I just use a bit of paper towel, router mat has a bit too much spring in it and can introduce unwanted vibrations. It's a fine line, but you want 'just enough' padding to protect the finished underside without destabilising it. 

HTH

Richard


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## Dalboy (15 May 2014)

A LINK to Richards great apple turning tutorial


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## Random Orbital Bob (15 May 2014)

Thanks Richard (and Dal for the link). I'll read that through when I get chance. I agree that the cup chuck wouldn't suit me either because I wouldn't want to spend the nitpicking time getting the diameter that accurate. So I will take the time to build a decently centred screw chuck and follow your method.

Out of interest, what sort of time do you think you put into one apple, cradle to grave?


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## Tazmaniandevil (15 May 2014)

Random Orbital Bob":fguil3zm said:


> The first time I turned apples I did it with a screw chuck using the method you describe. It turned fine for the first side but when I reversed it I couldn't for the life of me get it to run true.


 My first few attempts was before I had a chuck, so mounted the cylinder on a glue block to shape, then drilled the stalk hole on the lathe. When I reversed it on the screw chuck it ran fairly true.
Having seen Richard's tutorial though, I will turn the bottom first if I attempt any more.


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## Richard Findley (15 May 2014)

Hi Bob

I make them in batches, which is always the most efficient way to make things, but I think I can do about 8 an hour. I know a couple of guys (who make A LOT of apples) that reckon they can do 15 an hour but that is really going some!!

Good luck! Just post if you need any more advice, I'll keep watching. 

Cheers

Richard


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## Random Orbital Bob (15 May 2014)

I've just digested your wip in detail Richard. Some GREAT tips in there so many thanks for that. To all those who like me are struggling with the finessing of the apples, Richard explains some of the critical sizing steps that help to guarantee the correct shape.

It was kind of you to share that...I hope I can do it justice 

Just seen the one that's going to cross with this.....8 an hour....BLOODY HELL! Its taking me best part of an afternoon


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## gregmcateer (15 May 2014)

Taz, Dal boy,
Many thanks for the link
And Richard for writing it!


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## Grahamshed (15 May 2014)

Richard Findley":vnybe7bs said:


> I think I can do about 8 an hour.
> Richard


Coo, thats the same as me.






Oh no, I'm 1 in 8 hours 


Haven't actually tried yet.


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## Random Orbital Bob (15 May 2014)

Right then...a busy afternoon.

I digested Richard's wip on reverse mounting apples in a screw chuck. I had made one yonks ago withan M6 coach bolt but to I found for some reason the bolt wasn't centred sufficiently and I think M6 is too large a bore for a delicate apple stem or other end.

Took the advice on board about dimples and used what I'd learned yesterday regarding the curves.

First job was to make another screw chuck and just forget about the old one. Turned the stock to size, mounted in chuck with spigot then very carefully aligned tailstock with Jacobs chuck in and drilled a 3mm pilot hole right through the stock.

Epoxy'd in a 4mm good quality screw and was careful to keep it centred. Finished it with a superglued on little overcoat of new kitchen dischcloth sponge to protect the apple when butted against the face of the screwchuck. Once it had gone off I mounted it and observed the runout. It's still well off true but a substantial improvement on the original M6 one. (Oak by the way).

Then I turned the apple exactly as in Richards wip and it worked a treat. The reverse mounted fruit was a tad wobbly but no much that I was unable to blend the newly turned dimple and the already finished other side.

So these pictures should show basically that. Last one shows the evolution of my apples from no dimple and no consideration of shape to the present day. Incidentally, the clove trick works beautifully for the leaf end.

Many thanks to Richard and all else for the help in moving this process forward. Pear next methinks.


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## Grahamshed (15 May 2014)

You have been a busy boy haven't you.
They look good enough to eat.


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## woodfarmer (15 May 2014)

That is a great apple. I too have been studying Richards WIP. ( Thank you Richard). I hope to get some time tomorrow to have another go, Yesterday was a chainsaw day. and today we had visitors all afternoon. so soon as I have sorted out the geese and planted what I need to I will have a go. The very very good thing is I have sorted out oddments of Yew so once I am good enough I will try some of that.

Odd really, before I started turning I had visions of doing nothing but monster bowls, but have now realised, there isn't much you can do with a bowl once they get over 14-15 inches. a foot across is a handy sized bowl.


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## Random Orbital Bob (15 May 2014)

big salad platters are on my bucket list. My biggest bowl thus far, limited by the swing, is about 111/2".

I'd quite like to do a real big 16-20 incher for salad. The CL4 has a large bowl assembly that attaches to the side and then you turn the headstock through 90 degrees to get away from the beds. This allows a max bowl diameter of 30". I have this but have yet to install it and turn a monster.

Getting back to the apple, I think yew would be a cracker for fruit and I look forward to you turning one.


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## Woodmonkey (15 May 2014)

Inspiring stuff, I will have a go at this I think.


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## Tazmaniandevil (16 May 2014)

Well done. That is a huge difference. I think I need to have another go at fruit at some point. I've done a 3 wood thingummy, but I'm not 100% happy with it, so this weekend will probably be another go at the May challenge.
Once I've done that though, I have a nasty looking bit of oak I used as a jam chuck at one point which may become an apple.


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## gregmcateer (16 May 2014)

Lovely evolution, Bob - that is inspiring to see such an improvement over just three pieces - that Findley chap knows his onions, I mean, apples.

Onions? Now then Bob, how about that, now? :wink: 

Greg


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## Grahamshed (16 May 2014)

I also have to get some fruity practice in but each months project seems to be taking the full month at the moment ( sure I will speed up when I get used to it ) The apple isn't needed till harvest time so I think I will leaf it till then.


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## Random Orbital Bob (16 May 2014)

gregmcateer":280pjoma said:


> Lovely evolution, Bob - that is inspiring to see such an improvement over just three pieces - that Findley chap knows his onions, I mean, apples.
> 
> Onions? Now then Bob, how about that, now? :wink:
> 
> Greg



Most kind Greg (and other chaps comments too). It's amazing how the input of a seasoned veteran like Richard can modify your own pathetic attempts isn't it. He was spot on with the dimple depth and the 30mm measurement line helping to design in the right position of the "waistline" of the apple. I feel really chuffed with the outcome because like all of us on this theme, apples are surprisingly difficult to get right. 

Things to get right still include not just using a twig for the stem but turning some dark wood like ebony or rosewood. I just don't have any and ebony costs a fortune (£50 for one modest sized square blank in toolpost). I really fancy doing a pear next too.

How the hell people do bananas, I've no idea???


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## Random Orbital Bob (16 May 2014)

Grahamshed":jz5094ar said:


> I also have to get some fruity practice in but each months project seems to be tajubf row dull month at the moment ( sure I will speed up when I get used to it ) The apple isn't needed tip harvest time so O think I will leaf it tip then.



That's a good point Graham. This took a lot of time investment on my part and I think for these more esoteric pieces that's what you have to do (I do anyway). I think if folks jump straight to a dedicated attempt to model Richard's approach then they will leapfrog a good bit of the trial and error learning I went through


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## Grahamshed (16 May 2014)

Ye Gods. I really must proof read my posts. The spell check mangles more words than my typos do (hammer) (hammer) (hammer)


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## Tazmaniandevil (16 May 2014)

Random Orbital Bob":1pojf5mx said:


> Things to get right still include not just using a twig for the stem but turning some dark wood like ebony or rosewood. I just don't have any and ebony costs a fortune (£50 for one modest sized square blank in toolpost).


You could alsways soak a rusty bit of wire wool in vinegar and use the fluid to "ebonise" a bit of oak. I've been playing around with that recently and it's amazing how quickly the wood darkens.


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## Grahamshed (16 May 2014)

I brought a piece of African Jackelberry ebony from Matthew at workshop heaven the other day. A flat board about 16inches by 4inches by 10mm ( isn) for about £16 I think. Silly money but lovely wood and it would make a hell of a lot of apple stalks


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## Richard Findley (16 May 2014)

Good work Bob. Glad you found my tips useful. Nice to see the evolution, it's amazing what a difference a tiny change can make. 

I use ebony now for my stalks, I buy reject finger boards from Lincolnshire Woodcraft. Good price and ideal for stalks and little bits like lace bobbins. 

All the best

Richard


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## Random Orbital Bob (16 May 2014)

Tazmaniandevil":j39hxry4 said:


> Random Orbital Bob":j39hxry4 said:
> 
> 
> > Things to get right still include not just using a twig for the stem but turning some dark wood like ebony or rosewood. I just don't have any and ebony costs a fortune (£50 for one modest sized square blank in toolpost).
> ...



Now that is an interesting idea. Sort of "home-made bog oak" 

Have you pictures? I'd really like to see the effect it had


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## Random Orbital Bob (16 May 2014)

Richard Findley":36gu61pq said:


> Good work Bob. Glad you found my tips useful. Nice to see the evolution, it's amazing what a difference a tiny change can make.
> 
> I use ebony now for my stalks, I buy reject finger boards from Lincolnshire Woodcraft. Good price and ideal for stalks and little bits like lace bobbins.
> 
> ...



Brilliant. Just called L/Wcraft and ordered 2  Thanks for the heads up. Less than half the price of toolpost and about quadruple the usable material for this particular job.


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## woodfarmer (22 May 2014)

Today I had another go whilst sheltering from the rain.

Thanks to bob and Richard Findley for pointing me in the right direction, not that I have got the hang of it yet so still using small offcuts of building softwood.

I guess you might call this a crapapple  But I know it is too small and too short, the taper should be a slight convex curve and I need to round the shoulders more. The stem I made from a piece of greenheart, turned then shaped on a grinding wheel. Bit more practice and I might progress to good wood and make some keepers.


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## Random Orbital Bob (22 May 2014)

Its actually very close Woody. I reckon if you just got those corners joining up to the middle with a fair curve you'd be pretty much there. I think perhaps the stem is too large for the scale of apple also but that's easily remedied. It looks like you marked the 30mm from the end to get the shoulder ratio right.

They're quite the little pigs to master aren't they. 

Here's a tip for those corners. If the gouge isn't working for you, try a 1/2" round nosed scraper. Ultra sharp and carefully do a pull cut round the bend. I find sometimes the scraper lets me concentrate on the shape rather than the tool because you're less worried about the angle of presentation as you are with the gouge. I gouge it all till the last few cuts then get the curve I want with the scraper.


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## woodfarmer (22 May 2014)

Turning the 3mm diameter stem on that, is very different to my comfort zone of spinning 18 inch square section oak ( not so square now I have the bandsaw working). I have to confess, I sometimes use my skew chisel as a scraper  and have switched back and fro from a 3/8 spindle gouge to my favourite tool my 1/2" bowl gouge which just seems to go wherever I want.


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## Random Orbital Bob (22 May 2014)

I also do the vast bulk of the material removal with a fingernail ground bowl gouge (though the 3/8" is my favourite). I get all the basic shape with the gouge and then finesse the corners with the scraper. If I'm bored I'll sometimes do the initial corner creation with the long point of the skew because the sheering action leaves a lovely finish on the end grain. But I always find the scraper is the easiest tool to finesse the final shape with because I'm looking at the top of the apple rather than the end of the tool.

For the 3mm stem, have you got a 1/4" detail spindle gouge? If you sharpen a small detail spindle gouge just before the finishing cuts it's absolutely superb at peeling away those last few layers of very fine material to get the thin diameter you want.


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## Grahamshed (22 May 2014)

I reckon you've got it Larry. specially the one on the left, that looks almost lifelike


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## woodfarmer (22 May 2014)

Random Orbital Bob":1amplt96 said:


> I also do the vast bulk of the material removal with a fingernail ground bowl gouge (though the 3/8" is my favourite). I get all the basic shape with the gouge and then finesse the corners with the scraper. If I'm bored I'll sometimes do the initial corner creation with the long point of the skew because the sheering action leaves a lovely finish on the end grain. But I always find the scraper is the easiest tool to finesse the final shape with because I'm looking at the top of the apple rather than the end of the tool.
> 
> For the 3mm stem, have you got a 1/4" detail spindle gouge? If you sharpen a small detail spindle gouge just before the finishing cuts it's absolutely superb at peeling away those last few layers of very fine material to get the thin diameter you want.



For the stem, I cut a short piece about 1/4 inch thick by 1/2 inch wide. Jammed it into a Jacobs chuck and turned the stem using skew and 3/8 spindle gouge ( my smallest). the turned it around and blended it in using my 1/2 inch bowl gouge and the spindle gouge. Fished it off on a bench grinder. Think the stem not too bad for size, the apple however is a really small one. see pic.


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## Random Orbital Bob (22 May 2014)

I see...difficult to judge scale. The egg really puts that in perspective.


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## woodfarmer (22 May 2014)

Random Orbital Bob":1hc0pibu said:


> I see...difficult to judge scale. The egg really puts that in perspective.



Maybe not quite as small as you thought. The white egg is a small goose egg


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## Random Orbital Bob (22 May 2014)

LOL...Larry....are you deliberately trying to confuse me with perspective 
Next you'll show that the apple is actually 8 feet tall but placed 30 yards back. This is like that famous artwork where the stairs are always going up


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## Grahamshed (22 May 2014)




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## Random Orbital Bob (22 May 2014)

This one.


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 May 2014)

Got my first chance to turn the ebony I received on Tuesday. After Richard's advice I bought 2 reject ebony fingerboards for the apple stem turnings. Did a batch run of them today and they're a little too big but certainly got the hang of it.

I bandsaw'd then to square. The fingerboards were just under 1/2" thickness so I just bandsaw'd then square and mounted in the Jacobs chuck placed in the headstock. I managed to overcome the chuck coming loose while spinning by simply gently wooden malleting it further into the morse taper. It didn't try to wind out at all after that which really helped. I must say, sticking a Jacobs chuck in the headstock is a very versatile work holding solution for small stuff and saved me having to bother with pin jaw changeover.

Turned about 6 stems and then a couple of apples. I started by cutting the jaunty angle with a gents saw but later found just sanding it hand held on my belt sander was easier.

It's definitely a touch of class to finish fruit in this way though the ebony cost me £27 incl postage so a bit of a luxury.


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## Grahamshed (23 May 2014)

Yep, I think you've got the hang of it  They look really good.


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## Woodmonkey (23 May 2014)

I had a go at this today, got it right on the fourth attempt. Didn't do the stems yet.


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 May 2014)

yup.....lovely....got that sussed then


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## Grahamshed (23 May 2014)

Thats 4 of your 5 a day, wheres the last one ?


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## Woodmonkey (23 May 2014)

I had a Mars bar halfway through does that count?


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## Grahamshed (23 May 2014)

It counts if it helped you work, rest and play


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 May 2014)

you can imagine the creative dept as they tried to assemble the ditty for the famous ad:

A Mars a day helps you work rest and.....fur up your arteries......no it just isn't catchy enough......


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## Random Orbital Bob (25 May 2014)

Calling Richard Findley....

Got any dimensional advice on pears please Richard? Screwed one up royally today


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## Richard Findley (25 May 2014)

You called...?? :wink: 

I make apples from roughly a cube of 3" timber (although recently I've been making them slightly more squat, from about 2 7/8" by 3") pears I base on a conference style and cut the blank about 3 3/4" - 4" long. You can use slightly less thick timber for pears as well, but it's up to you. 

Just remember to keep the curve flowing, the widest part is maybe 1/4 of the way up. 

HTH

Richard


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## Random Orbital Bob (25 May 2014)

Richard Findley":3nakr8vg said:


> You called...?? :wink:
> 
> I make apples from roughly a cube of 3" timber (although recently I've been making them slightly more squat, from about 2 7/8" by 3") pears I base on a conference style and cut the blank about 3 3/4" - 4" long. You can use slightly less thick timber for pears as well, but it's up to you.
> 
> ...



Thanks Richard

The last one looked like a light bulb  I'll try your approach and see where it takes me.


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## woodfarmer (26 May 2014)

Been away from te turning as had other stuff to do. The good thing is I ended up with a length of gatepost spare so put it between centres and made a start on another apple. Not finished but am happy enough with the bottom half and hope when the top has been rounded it will be acceptable. Today I had ago at cutting apple blanks from short ends of timber from offcuts of bowl blanks. Apart from the half dozen bits of pine, have 5 each of Yew and walnut although with some bad bits in the wood. ( they were from scrap ends). Also 3 from the acacia branch I took down last week and a couple cherry and two from a very exceptionally figured piece of oak. So that should keep me busy. The gatepost is just a tad over 3 inches diameter so the apples will end up a bit bigger. key thing is the proportions.

The gatepost rounded off.






The haul of blanks and some of the leftovers.





On teh left, really nice figured oak.


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## Random Orbital Bob (27 May 2014)

Nice.


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## Grahamshed (27 May 2014)

Very nice


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