# Plane Crazy



## MattMoore (6 Nov 2004)

Hi folks, well, this is my first post after stumbling upon this forum via the latest good woodworking issue, and it is one regarding hand tools. 
i am an apprentice carpenter, working with my father who is a trained pattern maker, 
but now has turned his hand to kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, window, 
conservatory installation, and manufacture. this has all been a great learning curve for me, but being as it is mostly on site, 
my hand tools seem get a bit if a battering. i wish to start making items in my spare time,
and so i would like to start building up another set of hand tools, simply to keep in the shed. 
as with every tool i purchase, i want the best that i can afford, 
and one which will give me years of good service, so my question is,
in your eyes, where is the best place to start with building up a hand tool collection?
i would like to get a high quality set, but only tools i will frequently use,
instead of tools that seem like a good idea at the time,. but never get used
so what handtools do you use in your workshops mainly?
the first project i have in mind is that of a jewellery box for my mother. 
so any help will be greatly appreciated!


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## Midnight (6 Nov 2004)

Welcome aboard Matt...

what tools to get really depends on which direction you want to go in, and how you want to get there... Generally, the two best areas to start with are hand planes and chisels; both offer tons of scope, both capable of lasting several lifetimes if properly looked after, and both available in a wide range of prices from a broad range of manufacturers covering most budgets.. as ever, the basic rule is you generally get what you pay for; buy cheap and you'll pay dear...


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## tx2man (7 Nov 2004)

Welcome Matt,

What Midnight said really, plus, maybe and/or
a dovetail/tenon saw, engineers square, mitre gauge........
....................................................................................
..............Workbench.......................large overdraught.....
............................................4x4...................................
.........industrial unit........................................................
..........................................a chain of retail outlets....... :wink: 


TX


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## MattMoore (7 Nov 2004)

well the direction i would like to go in would be furniture making, 
but to start with, small boxes and things like that just to get my techniques
upto scratch, im only interested with the hand tools side of things,
as i have full access to a fully equipped workshop, 
with regards to chisels, what brand do you see as being the best?
i quite like the japanese chisels, but have never used any, 
or tried to sharpen any! from what i have read the sharpening seems to 
be alot harder than with european pattern chisels.
with the planes, if you were starting out, where would you start?
start with the one that will be used most frequently i gather.
so which do you use most frequently?

thanks


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## Alf (7 Nov 2004)

Welcome to the forum, Matt.

'Tis a big question, so this'll probably turn into a long answer - again.  First of all have a good rummage through the archive via the search facility, 'cos there's lots of good discussion therein. I'm guessing with a patternmaker for a father you're well aware of the importance of sharp tools and a good workbench, so we'll take those as read. So to the rest, and apologies in advance for any unnecessary egg-sucking tuition. I think just a few choice picks might be fun, rather than trying to do a list, so here goes:

Ah, if only I had the money and didn't have 15 marking gauges already  , the Tite-Mark would have to go into my shopping basket. Failing that I like using using a wheel marking gauge best. Chisels? Well the Lie-Nielsen Chisels would have to be top pick, although the Ashley Iles have many supporters too. Japanese ones worried me too, but I've tried some el cheapos from Tilgear and I'm very impressed. Old ones _can_ be great, but they _can_ be hopeless, and _you won't know until you've bought then and tried them_ - d'you feel lucky? :wink: 

Saws get difficult. As far as hand saws go, there's nothing like a good quality old one, 'cos I can't think of one decent new handsaw on the market unless you go Japanese. Backsaws, the competition is terrible. There's L-N, Adria and the amazingly well-priced saws from Vlad Spehar to name but three. Or old ones of course, which can be the bargain of the century if you keep your eyes open. Hmm, I've not mentioned any of the Sheffield makers have I? Well they're not bad I suppose, but the handles are horribly uncomfortable and the set is usually way overdone, so you'd have to assume some tuning and fettling required.

Planes now, that's a whole post in itself... One thing I would say is definitely get a shoulder plane quite early on, 'cos being able to trim your joints is a number one useful thing. To demonstrate my total bias I'd say you couldn't do better than the Veritas medium, but in truth any of them will do the job. Just some are more of a pleasure to use than others. A low angle block is a workhorse in most workshops, and mine is no different. Veritas or L-N depending on budget/preferences, but you might get do okay with a Stanley if you were born under the "Luck of the Devil" star sign. :wink: Aww, there are just too many to suggest - old, new, sizes, bevel-up, Bedrock... Look through the archives, see if you can narrow down the question a bit. :wink: 

Hope that helps a bit - it's a start anyhow. Oh, and some reading matter in the form of David Charlesworth's books might be a good idea if you want to know how to tune everything to the Nth degree. Don't let the detailed approach put you off - there's really good info for us mere mortals in there and you'll refer back to them again and again. (That'll be 10% commission, please Mr C :wink: )

Cheers, Alf


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## MattMoore (7 Nov 2004)

well thats given me some food for thought, so really, 
the best planes to start with would be a low-angle block plane, 
and a shoulder plane? i currentl6y have a record 9 1/2 and to say im dissapointed in its performance is an understatement.
i also have a stanley 93 given to me by my father,
would this be a suitable shoulder plane? or should i be looking at a better model?
on the saw front, which would be the best place to start, a tenon saw or dovetail? and also x-cut or rip cut?

thanks


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## Alf (7 Nov 2004)

MattMoore":2b82scn1 said:


> well thats given me some food for thought, so really,
> the best planes to start with would be a low-angle block plane,
> and a shoulder plane?


And at least one bench plane of some sort - and if we all agree on which sort that'll be a first... (See archives for examples of this :roll: )



MattMoore":2b82scn1 said:


> i also have a stanley 93 given to me by my father,
> would this be a suitable shoulder plane? or should i be looking at a better model?


Excellent. If it works then it's fine. 



MattMoore":2b82scn1 said:


> on the saw front, which would be the best place to start, a tenon saw or dovetail? and also x-cut or rip cut?


W-ell... a small tenon saw would cover everything and x-cut it probably the more flexible option, although there _are_ advocates of using rip for everything but they do tend to be in the minority. Nothing quite like using the right saw for the job though... ooops, who put that grease there..? :wink: 

Cheers, Alf


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## Anonymous (7 Nov 2004)

MattMoore":1jwyuht6 said:


> well thats given me some food for thought, so really,
> the best planes to start with would be a low-angle block plane,
> and a shoulder plane? i currentl6y have a record 9 1/2 and to say im dissapointed in its performance is an understatement.
> i also have a stanley 93 given to me by my father,
> ...



Standard angle block would be OK too although not as good as the LA block on end grain. I must agree with Alf on the shoulder plane, I own the recommended Veritas and it is absolutely superb and gets used a lot in my garage.

With regard to the record, you can tune these up quite nicely and I find modern Records to be considerably better than modern Stanleys. Loads of tuning info online and in GWW a couple of months back where they took a very cheap #4 and turned it into a uselful plane. Back issues from their website :wink: 

Clearly if you want quality in a plane, then you must pay for it. LN are the best you can buy (excepting silly priced hand made infills etc.) and Clifton and Veritas are not far behind. Any of these will be a rolls-royce to the Stanley/Record fiat uno!!!! I own 5 LN planes and everyone worked perfectly straight from the box. I spent about 2 days tuning a Record #4 and buying new chip breaker and new blade only to find thay my Clifton blew it away without any tuning at all  In the end the Clifton cost about £40 more than the Record + extras :twisted: 

Saws eh? Depends on what you want to make and how? Tenons or dovetails?

Dovetail saw should have rip teeth as one cuts with the grain. Japanese are good but I would personally buy a european style dovetail saw. I love japanese saws but find european dovetails to perform more to my liking.
Tenon saw has cross cut teeth as all shoulder cuts are across the grain. Here, I again prefer european with a heavy back support.

Chisels. I find cheap Japanese chisels are superb and take less time than european types to fettle and sharpen due to their concave backs. The edge tays for ages :wink: 
I have purchased soem Askley Ilses chisels lately and once flattend and sharpened, I find them to be magnificent. Edge stays for ages and the quality shines through. AI require a lot more time fettling them and flattening backs BUT they are without doubt amongst the best chisels available. I reach for these almost every time.
Also they come with a lifetime guarantee and superb customer service 

Hope this is helpfull and welcome to the forum!!


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## MattMoore (7 Nov 2004)

i have read the issue that tunes up the #4, and i can understand the same principle being brought forward, 
but as the majority of the work i do is on site, as hard as i try, 
the tools do sometimes get used for things they werent designed for
thats why i am looking to put together another set that will only get used for the finer wood working. 
the design of box i have in mind will have 4 drawers, and i would like to use dovetails for the joints. 
will a x-cut tenon saw be suitable for making such smale dovetails?
currently i am unable to justify the cost of 2 quality hand saws.
how do robert & lees saws perform? i have been looking through the tilgear catalogue, and their prices seem to be very competetive compared to others.
on the japanese chisel front, i have read various posts about the oire-nomi set from tilgear, 10 piece priced £95 would this be a good place to start? 

just a quick thanks again for all the quality advice i have recieved so far


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## Alf (7 Nov 2004)

MattMoore":35xsfz3a said:


> will a x-cut tenon saw be suitable for making such smale dovetails?
> currently i am unable to justify the cost of 2 quality hand saws.
> how do robert & lees saws perform? i have been looking through the tilgear catalogue, and their prices seem to be very competetive compared to others.


A dovetail saw will be better, yes. DC gave the 10" R&L x-cut a good press IIRC. Or you could go Japanese which is probably best bang for your buck, if you can get along with them.



MattMoore":35xsfz3a said:


> on the japanese chisel front, i have read various posts about the oire-nomi set from tilgear, 10 piece priced £95 would this be a good place to start?


It's a good start for Japanese chisels I think. If you want to go with Western chisels this set is well-spoken of.

Cheers, Alf


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## MattMoore (7 Nov 2004)

apart form the apparent longer lasting edge holding of the japanese chisels, 
is there any other advantages over western pattern chisels?
are either easier to use?


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## Philly (7 Nov 2004)

Hi Matt
Don't forget that the Japanes chisels that are recommeded are for use with a hammer- the metal hoop at the top of the handle is very uncomfortable when paring. I have a set of Jap chisels for use with a hammer and a set of Crown chisels for fine paring work (and some Marples for the rough and nasty stuff! :lol: )
As you are just getting into making furniture don't go too mad-buy your tools one at a time and spend some quality time with them, fettling, sharpening and trying them out, getting a feel for what works and what you like!
best regards
Philly


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## MattMoore (7 Nov 2004)

thats what i intend to do philly, buy tools one at a time, 
learn all about the tool and what it can be used for
and use them in conjunction with my existing tools, 
until i have a high wuality set, and my existing tools can stay for purely site work, 
so where would you folk start? chisels? plane? saws?


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## Aragorn (7 Nov 2004)

Watch out Matt!


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## Alf (7 Nov 2004)

That's a bit shallow as Slopes go, isn't it? :lol:


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## MattMoore (7 Nov 2004)

i know that feeling only too well, having worked in <dare i say> homebase for 3 years, its such a pleasure being able to work with my dad, and ever since starting i have been falling down the slope more and more :lol: :lol: 
with block planes, where is a good place to start? im very tempted by the apron planes of LV and LN


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## Philly (7 Nov 2004)

Matt,
On your next project, when you reach a point where things get a bit tough and progress stops-that's when you buy item number one.
Buy tools as the need arises-that's my advice. (otherwise you start buying tools because they're pretty, "you don't have enough L-N's", etc. :lol: )
best regards
Philly


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## Alf (7 Nov 2004)

Philly's avatar is a clear demonstration of how carefully he's followed his own advice... Ask him about his Stanley _collection_ too*. :wink: 

Cheers, Alf

*I warned you, Philly  :lol:


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## MattMoore (7 Nov 2004)

thats what im intending to do philly, i used to race model cars, and then i was drawn into the best looking items instead of the most useful, and hadthem for the sake of looking good on the pit table, as oposed to on the track where it mattered!
the first project i am going to do is a jewellery box,
i have acquired a nice lump of cherry, 
so it will be made out of that, 4 drawers, but the first drawer will be a dummy drawer, as there will be a lid that opens
does anyone knwo wherei wil be able to purchase the liners?


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## DaveL (7 Nov 2004)

And the slope also appears to have a bottom :shock:


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## Philly (7 Nov 2004)

Alf,
I am forever your Toolslave :wink: Darn collector blackmail.......
Matt,
I speak with , eh, experience-buy what you need, not what you want. (at least for a little while.... :lol: )
tail between his legs,
Philly :roll:


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## MattMoore (7 Nov 2004)

thanks for all the advice folks, 
what are the main advantages of adjustable mouth block planes over apron planes?


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## Midnight (7 Nov 2004)

Matt. couple of points..

re jap chisels; granted there's little to beat them for cutting ability, but you absolutely must not use them to leverage waste... they're too brittle...
For that reason, selecting the optimum set of chisels is a trial by fire, each seeming to have their up and down side...

re adjustable mouth planes... their main advantage is their control / prevention of tear-out. Simply tune the blade, set how fine a cut you want to take and adjust the mouth to suit. I learned the hard way that you're wasting your time with new Record / Stanley; as I said before, you get what you pay for...


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## Midnight (7 Nov 2004)

One other note to consider...

Most of the suggestions thus far have covered cutting tools of one description or another; no matter how good they are straight out of the box, they need to be kept sharp to maintain them in that condition. Have you thought about which direction you want to go here??

In addition... one other vital (to me at any rate) "tool" has been my slowly expanding library... learning and understanding which tools / materials / joints are more suitable to certain tasks is a continual process, aided no end with good reading material...


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## MattMoore (8 Nov 2004)

on the sharpening, i have a fine DMT diamond stone, so i will use that primarily 
what do others recommend?


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## Midnight (8 Nov 2004)

Near as I can tell, sharpening systems are limited to a few choices; oil / water / diamond stones, powered horizontal, powered vertical or handraulic... each have their own swings and roundabouts, no single one of them standing head an shoulders above any other... the trick is finding which system best suits *you*...

Personally I use Jap waterstones in conjunction with a couple of honing guides; they don't take up much space, they cut real quick and generate an incredible edge... downsides are... they're real messy and pretty soft, needing frequent flattening sessions... some of the finer grits can be pretty expensive. That said, stones can be collected over time, spreading the cost out. Some of the powered systems need a significant outlay up front to buy the basic system, accessories costing extra..


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## MattMoore (8 Nov 2004)

i have tried the japanese waterstone kit from axminster, and didnt get on with it too well.
granted, it cut very quickly, and the edge was very sharp,
but i also fond that it was so sharp, it was easily dinked
as my work is mainly onsite, i found the fine DMT stone an easier option as they take up next to no room in the tool bag.
im not too keen on the powered route, as i am always worried about overheating, and the tool losing its temper.
luckily, i seem to have steady enough hands to not require a honing guide, 
i have tried one, but found it very hard to keep the tool square to the guide, 
consequently a skewed edge followed! although the paring chisels my dad uses are all skewed, to aid the ease of paring very hard woods perhaps?


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## frank (8 Nov 2004)

matt use sticky back felt for the liners its easy to cut and fit and comes in a few colours .


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## J.A.S (10 Nov 2004)

At the risk of sounding boring, I really would suggest getting decent measuring and marking tools. I'm a novice (woodworker, not nun), and found very quickly that there's little point in having good cutting and planing tools, if the stock or workpiece is out of square or smaller/shorter/longer/thinner than you'd intended. It can be absolutely maddening.

Top of the list, I think, would have to be an enginneer's square. Absolutely indispensable: it's the first thing I reach for when in the gar...workshop. It's a real eye-opener if you test a run-of-the-mill so-called carpenter's square against the engineer's variety. I picked up a small incarnation of the latter for about £5.

Second, a marking guage. I like the wheel-type ones, and see that Alf has suggested the Titemark-Lie Nielsen version, which, no doubt, is excellent, but it makes a hefty £67 pound dent in one's wallet. I've got Axminster's version, which isn't too shabby, and comes in at about £17.

Hope the above hasn't given egg-sucking instructions to a gandparent.

You've mentioned chisels. I steered clear of Japanese ones, because some can be very short, which might present sharpening problems. Also, some of them, I believe, need their handles to be finished: something to do with the hoops and belting them with a hammer. (Apologies to the better informed, who are no doubt wincing at my ignorance.) On the plus side, though, the backs of Japanese chisels are easier to flatten, I suspect.

I've got a set of Kirschen/ Two Cherries chisels, and I like them. Their edges last quite a time (although nowhere near the time of Jap. chisels, I imagine), and they feel good in the hand, although Alf, I seem to remember, doesn't like the varnish on them or the hoops, which she thinks look cheap. On the down side, whilst the Two Cherries come mirror-polished, I found that that doesn't mean the backs are flat; I took a great deal of time flattening them on waterstones. Yet, on balance, I think these chisels are a good buy, and you'd have to pay a lot more for anything significantly better.

As for saws, you might want to keep an eye on ebay or at boot fairs for good, old saws. I have a couple of Disstons that are wonderful. However, if I had the pennies I'd plump for the Adria or Lie-Nielsens. One note of caution, though, on buying a decent saw: unless you want to learn how to sharpen a back saw, you need to find a good saw doctor, who won't just use a machine to cut new teeth. Someone on the forum even encountered a saw doctor who didn't know the difference between a rip and x-cut. Not good if you send or take a £100 saw to a nit-wit. For what it's worth, a while ago, I posted an address for Davenport Saws, who might be good; I seem to remember that David Charlesworth, a hand tool guru, also recommended them.

You wrote that you were wary of using a powered sharpener, given the risk of overheating the steel of the tool. I agree that the run-of the-mill bench grinders can be a nightmare: I've inadvertently turned cheap, normal length chisels into butt chisels that way, and wouldn't let my Kirschen chisels within 20 feet of my grnder. There is, however, a well-known wet grinder that is highly regarded by some: the Tormek. Yet, at nearly £300 pounds, its purchase might be grounds for divorce, unless, through guile and Special Forces tactics, you manage to sneak it past S.W.M.B.O. I've recently been using watersones, but find the constant need to flatten them a pain in the rear; they can also make a ruddy mess, and I remain concerned that getting water near anyting made of steel is asking for trouble, although I have recently seen an advert for some potion or other that can be added to the water to prevent rust.

You might want to try something called Scary Sharp (google it), which is a sharpening technique that uses a succession of different wet 'n' dry grits to flatten the back of, and sharpen, plane and chisel blades. I liked it, and it taught me a lot about sharpening, but you may find you don't like the messy spray-glue or running out of sandpaper when you most need to sharpen something. I think I actually prefer it to waterstones, which I am beginning to dislike.

Apart from the above, planes, planes, planes. But be careful, they are addictive. Completely, utterly, absol......

Well, I hope some of this is useful, and that you'll forgive me for waffling on.

Js


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## MattMoore (10 Nov 2004)

thanks for the reply Jas, you didnt waffle on in the slightest, it made for very interesting reading.
and i agree, that marking tools are an essential part, with those accuracy will always follow on, currently i do not own a marking guage,
and that is high on the list, i read in one of the wood working publications, 
about a Stanley 98 marking guage, i have been on the look out for a while
it seems a very versatile guage!
i use a moore and wright combination square, and engineers square for everything that needs it, having my dad work as a pattern maker, 
he has always insisted on the best of marking out tools
i have looked at the two cherries chisels, and they do look like a very nice set of chisels, but the only thing that concerns me is the lack of other sizes, and that you can only buy them in a set, 
the AI chisels look very very nice indeed, but reading that some of the backs were as far as 0.5mm out does make me cautious
i have been on the look out on ebay for a while now for saws, 
but i have only seen disston panel saws etc, when really im after tenon and dovetail models, does anyone here use gents saws razer saws etc ?


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## Bean (10 Nov 2004)

Mat
Two cherries Chisels were/are available singuly from Axinster Power Tools, as well as in sets.

Bean


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## MattMoore (10 Nov 2004)

i thought they were 2 different models?


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## Midnight (10 Nov 2004)

I've been using gents saws steadily for a few months now, my liking for them growing with every cut. Like everything else, they take a little getting used to, but their learning curve isn't too high... One of these days I might get around to trying them on a dovetail.... if that Cornish Pixie's hex ever wears off that is...


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## J.A.S (10 Nov 2004)

Matt,

the Two Cherries set does differ from the ones bought singly: essentially, the handles of the ones in the set shorten in proportion to the width of the blade. In contrast, the single ones all have the same sized handle, I think. No difference in the type of steel or finish of the handles. I have the set, but intend to add to it from the single range: in particular, I ought to get a 4mm for small dovetails, which, by the sound of it, you might also need.

By the way, the Two Cherries range also includes some rather tasty-looking mortice chisels, which I have seen on my visits to Axminster's shop in Faversham. I haven't used them, though, so I don't know how well they stand up to being thumped or used to pry up the bits from the mortice floor.

Incidentally, Disston made a variety of backsaws, and I have two, one of which was bought from ebay. The previous owner had filed it rip, albeit with too much set. Once some of the set was removed by a swipe on both sides with an oilstone, it turned into a very useful tenon saw, even dovetail saw. You might want to have a look at http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/, which has a detailed survey of the different saws that Disston made. http://www.vintagesaws.com/ is also worth a look, and has useful sections on saw restoration and sharpening.
Of course, if money is no object, just splurge on L-N or Adria.

Oh, yes, another thing: if dovetails are your aim, but you haven't quite cracked them yet, Rob Cosman's video, imaginatively entitled _Hand-Cut Dovetails_, is rather good, and is available from Axminster.

Hope this helps.
JS


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## Alf (12 Nov 2004)

Midnight":1qfkxfgo said:


> if that Cornish Pixie's hex ever wears off that is...


Just because I wasn't here when you _wrote_ that, doesn't mean I'm not reading it _now_...






Disston backsaws aren't the only ones worth having, you know. It's a bit like people not buying Millers Falls planes 'cos everyone always goes on about Stanley. Lots and lots of good British made saws to be had out there.

Cheers, Alf


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## MattMoore (12 Nov 2004)

would you care to name a few names to look out for alf?
with second hand saws, is there anything in particular to look out for?obviously the general condition and cleanliness will tell a great deal
also could you explain the difference in set between an X-cut saw, and rip?


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## Chris Knight (12 Nov 2004)

Not Alf- but look for Tyzak Non-Pareil they are great saws. There is an Ebay seller called Keith who does great saws (he sharpens the saws he sells too - won't do sharpening as a general activity unfortunately).

I got a lovely 1870 14" cross-cut tenon saw from him that he had sharpened and it's beautiful.


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## Alf (12 Nov 2004)

My mind's gone as blank as a blank thing. I'll have to look and see what I've got in the workshop tomorrow. From memory I've had good saws from various Tyzacks, old Robert Sorby's and a John Cockerill I sold and have regretted ever since. Everyone and his missus seems to have had "their own" saw on the market, but I suspect there was more than a little rebadging going on. Age is more important than name, and condition is arguably more important than anything. Look for brass nuts, preferably "split nuts", and handles where you can't see any flats. That tends to indicate older, and therefore _probably_ nicer saws. Genuine condition is virtually impossible to judge on Ebay. So-and-sos with wire brushes can get away with murder in a bad piccy.



We need to get BB to put up a pic of the saw he brought for "show and tell" to the Tools'04 yesterday to demonstrate what a well restored saw should look like. I saw a couple at Topsham Antiques Maul that would make a lovely demonstration of what to run away from. Such a shame, 'cos one was -guess what- a John Cockerill.





X-cut and rip are probably best explained on somewhere like Vintage Saws in their sharpening primer in the "Library section" (IIRC). The well-equipped galoot will favour _at least_ one each of 8, 10, 12 and 14" in both x-cut and rip, which is why we get so darn good at a) Buying them and b) Sharpening them.



. Apparently there's no known cure...

Cheers, Alf


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## MattMoore (14 Nov 2004)

which of those sizes mentioned is most versatile?
do you have a size you tend to use before others?
also, is it wise to have both a X-cut and rip toothed saws?


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## Alf (14 Nov 2004)

MattMoore":1lgm6s7y said:


> which of those sizes mentioned is most versatile?


14" seems to be the most popular, but personally I like 12" as a nice compromise.



MattMoore":1lgm6s7y said:


> do you have a size you tend to use before others?


Whichever one is handiest. Not helpful, but true.



MattMoore":1lgm6s7y said:


> also, is it wise to have both a X-cut and rip toothed saws?


Yes. Unless you expect to never do any x-cuts, or never any rip cuts, which is unlikely. You _can_ manage with just x-cut, but I wouldn't call it _wise_.

Cheers, Alf


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## Midnight (14 Nov 2004)

> both x-cut and rip, which is why we get so darn good at a) Buying them and b) Sharpening them. . Apparently there's no known cure...



<quietly making note of the absence of any mention of them actually being used....


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## Alf (15 Nov 2004)

Midnight":2pqmb117 said:


> > both x-cut and rip, which is why we get so darn good at a) Buying them and b) Sharpening them. . Apparently there's no known cure...
> 
> 
> 
> <quietly making note of the absence of any mention of them actually being used....


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## Midnight (15 Nov 2004)

>



LOL....

too damn tired to pull yer chain much more... spent the bulk of today surfacing and thicknessing both sides of some particularly figured Elm... entirely by hand...
that #40 1/2 REALLY kicks butt..!!!!


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## MattMoore (15 Nov 2004)

how do you rate that number 10 plane?


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## Midnight (16 Nov 2004)

a carriage makers rabbet plane...???

I'd imagine they'd be like hens teeth..... or worse....

functional kickstarts on a broom....

either way.... never seen one

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm#num10


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## Pete W (16 Nov 2004)

Midnight":2bjqf544 said:


> a carriage makers rabbet plane...???
> 
> I'd imagine they'd be like hens teeth..... or worse....



Your lucky week 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... eName=WDVW
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... eName=WDVW

Second one looks more interesting - get a bid in now and it could be yours (at least for a very short while - there's one on eBay US currently at £55 and 'reserve not met').


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## Midnight (16 Nov 2004)

well whodathunk it...??

I gotta pass; thesedays my rust bustin has to be confined to my Landrover...


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## MattMoore (16 Nov 2004)

well the reason i ask is that i have been given one, looks in pretty good nick, 
jus wondered if any other folks here have them and use them


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## Midnight (16 Nov 2004)

a plane in the shop's worth WAY more than one on Ebay... and one as rare as that canna be a bad thing...
Get the blade tuned up and keep the rust down by using it regularly. About the only thing I canna see it doing well is shooting edges...


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## Alf (17 Nov 2004)

MattMoore":25k0e9nf said:


> well the reason i ask is that i have been given one


Worthless piece of junk - I'll dispose of it for you... 

Ever helpful, Alf





Who's own #10 's repaired cheek has cracked again causing much sorrow Chez Alf.


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## tx2man (19 Nov 2004)

The words ''Chez Alf'', ''broken tools'' and ''poltergeist''
seem inexplicably linked :lol: 

TX


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## Midnight (19 Nov 2004)

> The words ''Chez Alf'', ''broken tools'' and ''poltergeist''
> seem inexplicably linked



<glancing at the fragg'd router....

tell me about it.....


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## houtslager (19 Nov 2004)

my no 10 is an old un from the US and once the blade got sharpened, it behaves great for fine tuning rebates and lippings.I like it better then using any of my routers, but then I got too many to count  routers that is.
Looking forward to getting my sticky hands on a number 6 finally.
HS in a cold and very wet Amsterdam.


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