# Taping a thread in Ally



## RussianRouter (1 Jul 2010)

Putting a thread tap in m bench press drill,setting it to the lowest speed it can go to and then tap a thread in Ally....will this work?

I know we have to screw and unscrew the tap at intervals of tapping the thread normally but what do you think?


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## jasonB (1 Jul 2010)

The hardest thing will be stopping the drill before the tap reaches the bottom of the hole or the end if its threaded portion if the shank is larger than the thread. You really want a for switch or switch on the end of the quill feed lever. Also depends on what your slowest speed is.

Ideally use a spiral flute tap to help clear the swarf or a thread forming tap which pushes the metal into the shape of the thread rather than cutting it.

Parafin as a cutting fluid will help

Jason


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## RussianRouter (1 Jul 2010)

jasonB":1kob9j0m said:


> The hardest thing will be stopping the drill before the tap reaches the bottom of the hole or the end if its threaded portion if the shank is larger than the thread. You really want a for switch or switch on the end of the quill feed lever. Also depends on what your slowest speed is.
> 
> 
> 
> Jason



Can't see a problem stopping the drill,Jason.

The work piece will be held in the vice,that leaves me a hand free for switching off the drill. 

As for speed I'll set the belt/pully up and see what speed is lowest? think it will be slow enough for tapping?


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## jasonB (1 Jul 2010)

Just think if your drill runs say 200rpm at its slowest and takes say 5 secs to come to a halt and you were tapping M6. then the tap will travel 17mm into the hole before the drill has stopped.

I have machine tapped with my mill without a tapping head as I can run it at 10rpm. I have also used the lathe to power tap and thread with a tailstock die holder but the tap/die can be released in an instant and the work left revolving.

Jason


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## chippy1970 (1 Jul 2010)

Why cant you just tap it by hand or if you have to use power use a cordless drill and go slow.

PS I just noticed your post count WOW :shock: only a member for a month and you have posted 300+ messages :shock: thats gotta be a record


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## Sportique (1 Jul 2010)

Put the tap in the pillar drill, turn the quill by hand and adjust the downward pressure as usual - this will ensure the tap is vertical. You can also turn the quill forward and backward by hand.

IMHO there is no advantage in using power, and possibly a significant disadvantage.

(My pennyworth :lol: :lol: )

Dave


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## RussianRouter (2 Jul 2010)

Ok,when I done my engineering course this is one thing I managed to screw up because if you don't keep the tap perpendicular at the start of the thread it became difficult trying to continue the threads progression.

Hence why I wan't a start of it going in straight.

Good one that Dave,I'll hand turn the chuck housing.


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## jasonB (2 Jul 2010)

The better way is if your tap has a centre hole at the end, put a pointed bit of rod in the chuck to apply pressure and keep the tap aligned and turn using a normal tap wrench.

If it does not have a ctr hole then put the tap wrench on the shank just above where the threads end and just do up the chuck enough to stop the tap wonbbleing about. This is a good way withh small threads as the wrench will slip on the shank before you apply too much pressure

Jason


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## fobco (3 Jul 2010)

hi,the easiest way is to fix the tap in the chuck,turn the chuck by hand whilst lowering the quill as you go,should be easy with ally,hope this helps frank.


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## jasonB (3 Jul 2010)

Beware of using the chuck with small taps, any runnout in your chuck will put sideways load onto the tap. Always best to support from the Ctr drilling if possible. You also get far more "feel" as you are not turning the drive train and motor around at the same time.

And forget this method if you have a keyless chuck as turning the chuck will just undo it

Or spend a tenner on one of the two tapping guides here

Jason


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