# Making a semi circle cabinet,GRANITE FITTED



## doctor Bob (18 Jun 2014)

Just a few images I took today.
Firstly making the beaded face frame.
I'll try and take a few of the doors tomorrow


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## Paul Chapman (19 Jun 2014)

Good stuff, Bob. Thanks for posting.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Woodmonkey (19 Jun 2014)

Like it. Did you bandsaw it in half?


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## nathandavies (19 Jun 2014)

Do you push the curved cabinets bob or do people tend to ask for them after seeing your previous work?


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## doctor Bob (19 Jun 2014)

nathandavies":1enxdqg5 said:


> Do you push the curved cabinets bob or do people tend to ask for them after seeing your previous work?



We never push them, we lose money on everyone we make, however if the customer wants one and the kitchen is big enough to absorb the cost then we will do them. If you don't do them then you don't always get the big high end kitchens.

We can rough cut them through a band saw and then put them through the speed sander. However if the curve is big enough it's easier running them though the panel saw with someone pushing through and another taking off.


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## doctor Bob (19 Jun 2014)




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## mailee (20 Jun 2014)

Looking good Bob. I have to ask a question though, how do you make the face frame beading? Obviously you can't place the curved section in the Morso notcher and it would be difficult to do it on the router table and get an accurate cut with the 45 degree cutter? I assume the actual bead is cut on the router table but the notches are puzzling me? Thanks. :?


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## Peter Sefton (20 Jun 2014)

That's some great photos Bob.
Cheers Peter


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## doctor Bob (20 Jun 2014)

mailee":19eo3oya said:


> Looking good Bob. I have to ask a question though, how do you make the face frame beading? Obviously you can't place the curved section in the Morso notcher and it would be difficult to do it on the router table and get an accurate cut with the 45 degree cutter? I assume the actual bead is cut on the router table but the notches are puzzling me? Thanks. :?



They are done on the notcher with the curve going upwards.


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## doctor Bob (20 Jun 2014)

*BIDDA BADDA BING*


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## Paul Chapman (20 Jun 2014)

The finished job looks great, Bob. Thanks for taking the trouble to post all the pictures.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## mailee (21 Jun 2014)

That has turned out really nice Bob. I am surprised there is no breakout from the notcher on the back side? Do you use a sacrificial piece behind it? what did you use for the panel, 6mm MDF? Great WIP's thanks.


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## condeesteso (21 Jun 2014)

Excellent, it's good to see work away from the usual straight lines. Sorry if I've missed this, is it tulipwood carcase? And how is it going to be finished? Also, what is a notcher... don't think I have one of those


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## nathandavies (21 Jun 2014)

Once the piece has dried, is there any kind of movement over time? or if it's right when the glue goes off it stays right?

Nathan


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## Peter Sefton (21 Jun 2014)

nathandavies":33vuqncj said:


> Once the piece has dried, is there any kind of movement over time? or if it's right when the glue goes off it stays right?
> 
> Nathan



In my experience this depends on a few factors.

If you laminating thin MDF, Flexi ply or flex MDF and using a UF based glue in general they stay put.

If you are laminating -6 mm veneers they generally stay in place when you start laminating thicker constructional veneers you can find a bit more creep. This does also depend on the tension within the timber it self, the thickness of the lamina and the radius you are forming.

Here is a lamination from 5mm Flexi ply this has stayed in good shape it has now been over veneered with ripple sycamore.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... =1&theater

These .6 mm veneers stayed in shape they were formed in a 20mm radius former very tight to bend around in Burr https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... =1&theater

The handles in this tray are 3 pieces of 2.3mm Walnut they spring very slightly but this is not an issue with my design. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... =1&theater

The large arch in this former stayed in place this was a radius of 700mm made up of 1.5mm constructional walnut veneer. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... =1&theater

It looks from this like we only ever work in Walnut!

If you like our Face Book pages or students work place like and follow.
Cheers Peter


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## doctor Bob (21 Jun 2014)

condeesteso":2ratzt3f said:


> is it tulipwood carcase? And how is it going to be finished? Also, what is a notcher... don't think I have one of those



Yes this is tulipwood, it will be painted.

A notcher,











Unlike a guillotine it has a 20mm flat front on it then 45 degrees so it cuts a notch rather than a "v".


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## doctor Bob (21 Jun 2014)

mailee":23lw0s5v said:


> I am surprised there is no breakout from the notcher on the back side? Do you use a sacrificial piece behind it? what did you use for the panel, 6mm MDF? Great WIP's thanks.



Panels are 2 x 3mm MDF as the door has a bead, on shaker doors we do 3 x 3mm MDF.

The notcher can be adjusted to nibble the slot, so we just take the last bit out half a mm at a time.


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## doctor Bob (21 Jun 2014)

nathandavies":1bp8g2mf said:


> Once the piece has dried, is there any kind of movement over time? or if it's right when the glue goes off it stays right?
> 
> Nathan



Pretty much as Peter has said, I think his more scientific research and more experience in different sizes etc he is far more expert than me.

I find there is a bit of spring back but the great thing is everything springs back the same, frame and doors.
So for a 800 cabinet I may make it 10mm smaller to allow for spring back.

One big point make the carcass to suit the frame, otherwise you may have to squeeze the frame on and then the doors are out.


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## Sgian Dubh (21 Jun 2014)

doctor Bob":2cxqdcvn said:


> So for a 800 cabinet I may make it 10mm smaller to allow for spring back.
> 
> One big point make the carcass to suit the frame, otherwise you may have to squeeze the frame on and then the doors are out.


I agree with that order of work when doing laminated stuff. It's bass ackwards to standard square or rectangular cabinets in a sense, but absolutely the right order in curved work. Slainte.


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## doctor Bob (27 Jun 2014)

and a few more images.


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## doctor Bob (27 Jun 2014)

and a few more images.


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## doctor Bob (16 Jul 2014)

Here it is in situ, granite to be fitted this week


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## woodnovice (20 Jul 2014)

Nice work Bob, how do you fix the frame to the carcase ? . Mick


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## doctor Bob (20 Jul 2014)

woodnovice":nkkui4fy said:


> Nice work Bob, how do you fix the frame to the carcase ? . Mick



Biscuits and pocket hole screws.


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## doctor Bob (22 Jul 2014)




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## Paul Chapman (22 Jul 2014)

Looks great, Bob.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## paulm (22 Jul 2014)

I somehow managed to miss this thread along the way, great to see the WIP pictures Bob and amazing end result, very impressive 

Cheers, Paul


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## Harbo (22 Jul 2014)

Lovely work but that granite Worktop overhang looks a bit unsafe but then I noticed the supports - nice touch!

Rod


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## doctor Bob (23 Jul 2014)

Harbo":1uzq551k said:


> Lovely work but that granite Worktop overhang looks a bit unsafe but then I noticed the supports - nice touch!
> 
> Rod



Yes normally 300 max overhang unsupported, this one is 380mm but has support underneath and it's a composite so very strong.


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## DuncanDesigns (5 Aug 2014)

Lovely work.

Are the holes for the door handles drilled on site? I would have thought they would be pre drilled for accuracy but I cant see any from the pictures...


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## doctor Bob (5 Aug 2014)

DuncanDesigns":3klcn7nj said:


> Lovely work.
> 
> Are the holes for the door handles drilled on site? I would have thought they would be pre drilled for accuracy but I cant see any from the pictures...



I think we can drill a few holes on site fairly accurately, this way the customer chooses the handle or knob during installation to ensure they are correct, handle needs 2 holes knob one hole, different sizes etc etc, fitter comes back after its handpainted.


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