# Workshop layout



## polsonm87 (29 Jan 2021)

Hi all,

Moved house a couple of years ago which had a 7.5m x 6m outbuilding. The building was split in 2, one side a shed/workshop the other side a garden room/games room.
I have removed the partition in between as i never used the garden room/games room and slowly converting it into one larger workshop.
I am just looking for any advice for the layout of the workshop, specifically the setup for the dust extraction.
I have made a few sketch up layout so you can get an idea. I am not very good at sketch up so hope it makes sense.

This is how i want the workshop to look like







This is what i am planning.






I am also planning to extend the building by 3.5m as a storage shed, which i would in the long term like to put my dust extractor in to reduce noise etc. Like so.






Thanks


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## Inspector (29 Jan 2021)

The most practical DC layout is to put the DC in one of the two corners of the addition, by the door for dust bag/bin removal being better. A main pipe coming out of that corner running diagonally to the opposite corner with branches off it to the machines.

As for the mitre bench. I would put that on the wall by the big door or the man door wall so material can be cut up as it is brought in and if really long can stick out the door until cut shorter.

Pete


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## Jameshow (29 Jan 2021)

Where is your main workbench? 

I'd but the mitre saw in the left wall and your main bench on the back wall. 

Good idea to put the DX and compressor if you have one in another room. 

Cheers James


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## Peterm1000 (29 Jan 2021)

If you put everything on wheels and French cleats, you are not stuck with one layout.


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## polsonm87 (30 Jan 2021)

Thanks for the replies.

Yes i hope to have the DX in the shed next door, eventually. To reduce noise save space.
My main workbench will be the MFT. which i will have my shop vac built into for power tool extraction.
Everything will be on wheels so yea i can move things about if needed, but i didn't think about a french cleat wall.

I have plenty of room for what i need, just need to set the Dust extractor up to reduce distance and bends etc for optimal performance.


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## TheUnicorn (30 Jan 2021)

I agree with pete and james on the positioning of the mitre saw, much better to feed in from the door.


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## LBCarpentry (31 Jan 2021)

Think about the order in which you will process timber and have machines in that order. Imagine a typical job progressing round the workshop. You don’t want to be going from one end to another all the time. A central bench on wheels works well. A finishing area seperate from an assembly area is nice also.


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## Ollie78 (31 Jan 2021)

As peterm1000 says wheels is a good idea.
It is hard to know what works until you actually try it out. 
Try and make all the heights the same if you can, that way you can rest timber almost anywhere. 
I have table saw and planer at one end for rough processing, then other machinery further down for joinery.

Ollie


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## Trainee neophyte (31 Jan 2021)

If your building is 6m wide, and you put the planer as shown, doesn't this mean that you can't put 4m lengths through it. Same for table saw? Or do you have cunning hatches and /or a window? If you only ever make jewelry boxes that would be fine, but I am always having to drag kit outside because of the length or width of the workpiece. Mind you, my "workshop" doesn't have room for me, let alone any of the tools. Luckily the weather is usually nice.

(Edit: I know that 7.5m length doesn't help either, but I would probably want to work lengthways rather than widthways - you know the space already, so don't mind my irrelevant musings)


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## polsonm87 (31 Jan 2021)

Yes the MFT, mitres saw station, table saw out feed etc will be at the same height so that i could push MFT and table saw out feed together if needed.

Table saw and planer will both be on wheels so i can wheel over and open double doors for longer lengths of timber.

Mitre saw station as show will allow for 4.8m lengths on the left hand side and 2.4m length on the right hand side which is ideal for standard timber. Any longer and i can cut down by hand first.

I have placed the mitre saw and table saw/planer like this to try and reduce extraction distance and bends and also so the ducting doesn't get in the way of the lighting. I know it would be better placed beside the double doors but i won't be able to avoid ducting going over my lights and i don't normal cut longer material.

Thanks for the replies


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## GaryHandS (6 Feb 2021)

Hello,
I'm completely new to this forum. I've never used Facebook so I haven't much idea about social media. Please forgive any errors in protocol. I've never actually written anything on any forum before. Oh well, here goes ...
I've been a teacher of Design Technology for a lifetime so my experience is using workshop equipment within an educational situation. I am guided by the British Standard that applies to education. I have seen workshops set-up by contractors with some impractical designs. As far as practically possible, I would suggest when planning a new workshop:
1. Make sure that there's a good airflow in to the workshop so that the Local Exhaust Ventilation system doesn't have to overcome a vacuum. It there's air being sucked out, there needs to be a means of fresh air getting in.
2. Try to avoid vertical ducting near to a circular saw bench. There's often a chance that cutting a wide board will be obstructed by the ducting.
3. If possible allow 2.4 m of space (plus space for you) in front of the circ. saw bench and behind it.
4. Similar to #3 allow the same amount of space for the thicknesser.
5. Include in your planning the removal of floor and bench dust by vacuum cleaning and try never to use a hand brush or broom. (Brushing causes a hazard from dust, especially fine dust). An inlet for a long, flexible hose in your LEV system would be a good idea or use a portable vacuum cleaner.
6. Install a bright, clearly visible, warning light on the same electrical circuit and the workshop machines so that it's obvious when the power is on and have a circuit breaker near to the door so that the machines can't be turned on when you leave the area.
7. Try to avoid trip hazards by picking up scraps of wood from the floor.
8. Push sticks should be about 400mm+ and once they get to 300mm throw them away and cut new ones.
9. At least be aware of the regulations that govern educational workshops (ie. hands no closer than 300mm to the side of a cross-cut circular saw / mitre saw. Obviously these rules don't apply to your personal use of workshop machines but it might be useful to know what the rules are for schools and colleges.
10. If possible, have the exhaust from the LEV system ducted to the outside atmosphere rather that recirculated to the workshop.
I've probably said far too much. I'm surely being too prescriptive. I've been a teacher for far too long and I'm sure that some (hopefully not too many) members will point out my shortcomings. May I apologize now if I've caused offence.


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## Inspector (6 Feb 2021)

Welcome to the forum Gary. Your background is valuable but not always easily implementable as you can appreciate. Space and budget always seems to get in the way and where you call home dictate some of the decisions we will make. Today when I got up it was -35ºC with a wind chill almost 10ºC colder, tonight it will get down to -38ºC. When it is like that one isn't inclined to exhaust any shop air much less allow that cold stuff in. One has to rely on very good collection and filtration along with wearing a mask all the time. In the summer the screened (mosquitoes) windows can be wide open. Much of what you say is well worth considering but whether or how to implement them is going to be up to the user. Keep 'em coming. Takes a lot more than good sense to offend us.

Pete


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## polsonm87 (6 Feb 2021)

Thanks Gary,

I have considered most of your points, a few i will have a think about.
Workshop is currently having new sockets wired up and last few walls painted to brighten it up, still waiting on 10 new LED lights.

Thanks all


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## RobinBHM (6 Feb 2021)

Inspector said:


> Welcome to the forum Gary. Your background is valuable but not always easily implementable as you can appreciate. Space and budget always seems to get in the way and where you call home dictate some of the decisions we will make. Today when I got up it was -35ºC with a wind chill almost 10ºC colder, tonight it will get down to -38ºC. When it is like that one isn't inclined to exhaust any shop air much less allow that cold stuff in. One has to rely on very good collection and filtration along with wearing a mask all the time. In the summer the screened (mosquitoes) windows can be wide open. Much of what you say is well worth considering but whether or how to implement them is going to be up to the user. Keep 'em coming. Takes a lot more than good sense to offend us.
> 
> Pete



-35C Wow 

I spent a few months in Toronto years ago, it was July time. I was amazed it was damn hot 32C in the daytime. But the locals were telling me it got pretty cold at night.

Saskatoon looks a lot further North than Toronto. I'd be guessing you live in a region with very low population density....I believe 90% of people in Canada live with 100 miles of US border...or something similar.


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## Inspector (6 Feb 2021)

Yes Robin we are a thousand kilometres from the US and to you we would be very thinly populated. There are about a million people in the province with Saskatoon having about a quarter of them. You could fit more than three United Kingdoms into Saskatchewan. Summer temps can get up to 40ºC for a short bit here and there but mostly mid 20s to low 30s. The centre of the universe (Toronto) is uncomfortable in the summer is because of the humidity from the lake. Like anyplace people adapt to where they live.
Back to our scheduled program.....Workshop Layout.

Pete


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## polsonm87 (6 Feb 2021)

One extreme to the other. Thought it was cold today in Scotland 0 degrees. 

Will update next week with some actual pictures, when i get it tidied up a bit.


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## Dave Moore (7 Feb 2021)

I would take care with the sizing of the extraction ducting depending on how powerful the extractor is. If the ducting is too large you may find it will be inefficient sucking and transporting to the bin.


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## polsonm87 (7 Feb 2021)

Hi Dave, yea i hope to get a 3hp dust extractor with cartridge filter when funds allow. Table saw and planer will be approx 3m away from it so not far.


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## johnny (7 Feb 2021)

I would suggest moving the doors away from the ends of the walls by a min 600mm this will not only strengthen the corner wall and roof structure considerably but it will also allow you to build a 600mm deep workbench on the adjacent wall or place rolling router/jig/table saw cabinets etc without blocking the doorways

My other suggestion would be to ditch the CAD and just use a pencil and scale ruler and coloured felt tip pens and broad tip hi light felt tips . You can go through a dozen different sketch ideas in the time it take to produce one CAD drawing . Designers often use scale sized paper or cardboard cutouts so that they can move the various essential components around a space to look for conflicts, flow and critical pathway etc . Once you have firmed up your design then is maybe the time to draw it up in a CAD program if you want to


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## polsonm87 (8 Feb 2021)

The garage was already built when i moved to the property, i have just been converting it to a workshop.
I am a time served joiner so there is no issues with the building structure. Just looking for peoples thoughts ideas on workshop layout etc.

Yea i have done a few drawings but i am trying to learn how to use sketch up.

cheers


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## johnny (11 Feb 2021)

polsonm87 said:


> I am a time served joiner so there is no issues with the building structure. J
> 
> Yea i have done a few drawings but i am trying to learn how to use sketch up.
> 
> cheers


as an Architect and Construction Engineer I see a different structure to the one that you see.  I can only see the inherent structural weaknesses and ergonomic design flaws in theshed construction....... fortunately it is only a shed and not a habitable space .!

Learning to use Sketch up is all very well, when you need to use it regularly for design work in order to produce construction drawings but for space organisation and flow its completely unnecessary when the job can be done more quickly and effectively by freehand sketching. You'd never find a professional designer working up scheme with a client by using any form of CAD program. Its too slow and unwieldy . You'd only produce a CAD drawing when the design has been firmed up and finalised.

it would seem to me that you haven't really thought about what you intend doing in the shed /workshop and how you intend to use the space hence the procrastination with sketchup. 
Why not buy a A4 pad of graph paper so that you can draw your space and equipment etc to scale and make a list of the type of jobs you think you might want to do in your workshop which will help you design the layout.


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## eribaMotters (11 Feb 2021)

My previous workshop had a floorspace of approx 8 x 5m.
Double door left of centre entrance on the 5m end.
Along rhs was a radial arm saw bench approx 5m long with wood storage under. A couple of small fixed windows above. At far end of this a large Jet extractor with one port hosed to a 4" galvanised pipe along back of bench for ras and other port had a 3m flexi hose.
Along lhs was a tall floor cupboard and 2m workbench with a run of opening windows.
350mm disc sander, morticer, bandsaw, table saw, router table, spindle moulder and p/t all sat on castors and could be rolled out into the middle of the floorspace, be hooked up to the 3m extractor hose and plugged into sockets suspended on chains from the ceiling. An air filter was suspended from the ceiling in the middle of the area and a numatic power tool vac was attached to various machines as a second point of extraction as needed.
Far short wall opposite door was for main timber storage.

This layout meant I could safely work around an 8x4 sheet or machine timber 3m + in length. A ceiling height of 2.5m + also meant I could flip sheets. I had space to work on anything that I could safely carry or lift.

Colin


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## polsonm87 (11 Feb 2021)

johnny said:


> as an Architect and Construction Engineer I see a different structure to the one that you see.  I can only see the inherent structural weaknesses and ergonomic design flaws in theshed construction....... fortunately it is only a shed and not a habitable space .!
> 
> Learning to use Sketch up is all very well, when you need to use it regularly for design work in order to produce construction drawings but for space organisation and flow its completely unnecessary when the job can be done more quickly and effectively by freehand sketching. You'd never find a professional designer working up scheme with a client by using any form of CAD program. Its too slow and unwieldy . You'd only produce a CAD drawing when the design has been firmed up and finalised.
> 
> ...



ok Johnny.......

Yes you do see a different structure as it is a very poor attempt at sketch up but i know what it is. Its a solid built wooden garage.

Do you want me to post pictures of my doodles? I have used sketch up as i am trying to learn how to use it and everybody can make them out the general size/idea of what it looks like, i am no expert at sketch or CAD. I am not trying to work up a scheme with any client so i really can't understand your reply. i think you have missed the point of the thread.

I know exactly what work/projects i intend to do, i was looking for advice/suggestions on workshop layout which i have received from everyone apart from yourself.


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## johnny (12 Feb 2021)

polsonm87 said:


> ok Johnny.......
> 
> Yes you do see a different structure as it is a very poor attempt at sketch up but i know what it is. Its a solid built wooden garage.
> 
> ...


its not the quality of the sketch up drawing that I was referring to ......
Its the inadequacy of the construction design of your shed that is shown in the drawing.
Let me give you a simple example of what I am pointing out. Most of the door openings in your garage/shed are shown to be at the ends of the walls. This leaves just the timber wall plate above the door to tie the adjacent wall to and to provide structural integrity of the whole structure including support to the roof . This is considered a very poor construction detail . I am willing to bet that there is no roof bracing either . You don't need to do structural calculations to see that any undue static and dynamic loading from snow and wind and the weight of the roof materials together with whatever you add to that by storing wood etc in the roof could potentially prove a problem.......


From my little experience in woodworking I would start by looking at how I would arrange the door openings and the internal space to handle the largest most awkward pieces that you are likely to have to deal with ie 2440x1220 timber sheets . Think about how you would feed the sheets into the workshop and how and where you would lay them out to work on them and still be able to move around the edges to work on the project and access your tool cupboards etc. try to design the layout so that every space is flexible enough to use for multiple purposes . Having fixed pieces of equipment in the middle of your workshop is going to be extremely inflexible and restrictive so maybe consider using tool stations on castors


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## Spectric (12 Feb 2021)

polsonm87 said:


> and i don't normal cut longer material.


Don't think only in the present, make sure you cover all possibities and I would either have some form of hatch each end of the mitre saw run or move it so you feed from the door, it is really annoying when you come to do something and you find you cannot get the material into the machine. Also you will never get everything right no matter how hard you think and plan because something will always come along to try you.


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## polsonm87 (12 Feb 2021)

johnny said:


> its not the quality of the sketch up drawing that I was referring to ......
> Its the inadequacy of the construction design of your shed that is shown in the drawing.
> Let me give you a simple example of what I am pointing out. Most of the door openings in your garage/shed are shown to be at the ends of the walls. This leaves just the timber wall plate above the door to tie the adjacent wall to and to provide structural integrity of the whole structure including support to the roof . This is considered a very poor construction detail . I am willing to bet that there is no roof bracing either . You don't need to do structural calculations to see that any undue static and dynamic loading from snow and wind and the weight of the roof materials together with whatever you add to that by storing wood etc in the roof could potentially prove a problem.......
> 
> ...



Nothing like taking the hint johnny...

I know the workshop is solid because i have seen it, you have not. You are not telling me anything i do not know already and would be delighted if you would stop replying.


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## polsonm87 (12 Feb 2021)

Spectric said:


> Don't think only in the present, make sure you cover all possibities and I would either have some form of hatch each end of the mitre saw run or move it so you feed from the door, it is really annoying when you come to do something and you find you cannot get the material into the machine. Also you will never get everything right no matter how hard you think and plan because something will always come along to try you.




I have the ability to cut 4.8m lengths of timber on the mitre station and rip 2.4m sheets on the table saw. As said previously everything is on heavy duty castors so i can open the double doors and wheel the table saw/thicknesser over to rip/plane longer lengths of timber.
I have the mitre station and table saw outfield table built and have plenty room to move around. Going to start making the MFT shortly.

I will put i couple of pictures up when it looks a bit tidier.

Thanks


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## Spectric (12 Feb 2021)

Hi

On the subject of the MFT, take a look at this, it certainly gave me the inspiration for new ideas and working differently. MATCHFIT Woodworking Jig and Fixture System | #1 Best-Seller in Jigs and Fixtures



I now have some holes but also dovetails and find it so flexible, location and clamping just easy.


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## polsonm87 (12 Feb 2021)

Spectric said:


> Hi
> 
> On the subject of the MFT, take a look at this, it certainly gave me the inspiration for new ideas and working differently. MATCHFIT Woodworking Jig and Fixture System | #1 Best-Seller in Jigs and Fixtures
> 
> ...




Hi Spectric,

I have not seen a workbench like that before, i will give it a watch just now.
I was undecided between dog hole and t track MFT but i think there is more options with the dog hole MFT and like the look of the benchdogs.co.uk fence system, Will be great for ease of breaking down sheet materials.

Thanks again.


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## Hsmith192 (15 Feb 2021)

Hey,

I’m in the process of planning and positioning machinery. I would say with the size you’re thinking maybe look at Matt Estlea’s workshop tour. It will hopefully give you an idea of a layout that incorporates ducting too.



The other thing I looked at was the Wood-whisperers 12 tips on workshop set up.









12 Shop Layout Tips


Tips to help you arrange your shop effectively.




thewoodwhisperer.com






The doors can be used to your advantage as it extends the workability of your materials if they are open (weather permitting of course)

Also, sketch up is great, I did some rough sketches but once you've drawn out everything you can move the exact machinery around the room and try lots of different layouts.

Hope this helps, you can download the machines at their rough dimensions from the google 3D warehouse too, that will help to get your plan looking the way you want too.


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