# New workbench



## seanybaby (12 Jan 2008)

My next project will be a hefty workbench. It's a pretty simple design really, breadboard ends, 2 record vices, tool tray, 4 draws with those metal runners, round dog holes, stand will be right to floor and also quite high at 980mm. Stand will also be of a knock down construction.

I decided not to over complicate the design with too many features and went for a very sturdy bench that i can move if needs be. It is also a space to store all my hand tools.












Took me 4 hours to plane, biscuit and glue the main top.


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## Paul Chapman (12 Jan 2008)

Looks good, Sean, but I think I would have been inclined to put at least one leg near to the right-hand end for a bit of extra stability and rigidity. But you could always add that afterwards if you find it necessary. Look forward to seeing it progress.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## seanybaby (12 Jan 2008)

The stand size isn't finalised yet. Once i have fit both vices i will be making the stand to fit the gap. :wink:


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## Chris Knight (12 Jan 2008)

Sean,
I don't really understand why the tail vice is an issue - just leave a few inches under the top for it, it doesn't mean you have to sacrifice length on your cabinet in the lower section. You'll just lose one drawer or a bit of hight in a cupboard etc.


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## OPJ (13 Jan 2008)

Glad to see you're going for a knock-down construction but, really, this isn't fair - we're not allowed to make a nice bench at college because "_it isn't a piece of furniture_".  :evil: 

I'm looking forward to seeing this ...and perhaps stealing a few ideas for future reference! :wink:


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## seanybaby (13 Jan 2008)

I will be making the stand (draws) as big as possible thats why i'm waiting until i have installed the vices, so i know the exact biggest possible size.


OPJ - I expect you pay for your course? Of course a fancy bench IS a piece of furniture. I would go ahead with it, especially if it is the only time you are able to get good access to high quality machines. I can make whatever i want on my course. However the only piece that is marked by an assessor is a small jewelery box in the summer.

Want some help with workbenches have a browse through Lord Nibbos post https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums...s=0&postorder=asc&highlight=workbench&start=0
It gave me some good ideas towards construction. Cheers Lord


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## wizer (13 Jan 2008)

seanybaby":29ldteyf said:


> I will be making the stand (draws) as big as possible thats why i'm waiting until i have installed the vices, so i know the exact biggest possible size.



I think your missing the point? Or Maybe I am? You are wasting a lot of space under the tail vice. You could take your drawer units right up to the edge of the table. I certainly think you should have legs there.


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## seanybaby (13 Jan 2008)

WiZeR":34091p96 said:


> I think your missing the point?



Ahh i get you, i could have the drawers AND/OR cupboards right across the whole bench? plus also making it more stable.


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## wizer (13 Jan 2008)

that's it mate, no sense in having wasted space and you'll get more support around the vice.


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## seanybaby (14 Jan 2008)

I have been thinking i would sooner have drawers rather than a cupboard. How wide can a draw be? On the drawing iv'e made it measures 1590mm however it would be a little shorter than that at around 1400mm. Is that too wide?

Having drawers only enables me to have my original 4 legs with k/d construction, instead of adding a middle partition.


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## wizer (14 Jan 2008)

what do you want to put in the drawers? How about slimmer drawers and a cupboard with very deep drawers inside? On my forthcoming workbench, I will use a cupboard under the bench to store a shop vac. Might be something to think about.


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## Chris Knight (14 Jan 2008)

Sean,
You'll also need to think about any dog holes etc. you might want in the bench top.

A long hold-down inserted in a hole will foul the drawers. On my bench long hold downs can only be used in a couple of holes between two sets of drawers. Elsewhere I can and do use shorter dogs for clamping stuff on the bench top.


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## wizer (14 Jan 2008)

waterhead37":2fycs35v said:


> A long hold-down inserted in a hole will foul the drawers. On my bench long hold downs can only be used in a couple of holes between two sets of drawers. Elsewhere I can and do use shorter dogs for clamping stuff on the bench top.



In which case, how about having your deeper drawers at the top?


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## seanybaby (14 Jan 2008)

Cheers for the advice.

I will be having 2 rows of round dog holes length ways on the bench.

I realise i will not be able to use a long hold-down.

The drawers will contain my hand tools and maybe router, jigsaw etc in the bottom bigger ones. I will be making classic draw construction with through dovetails and a ply bottom. My worry is that drawers nearly 1.5m wide could sag and produce problems. Would a muntin rail be needed in the construction?


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## wizer (14 Jan 2008)

if you are set on having drawers that wide then i'd say go with the support rail. your going to be putting heavy tooling in them.


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## Jake (14 Jan 2008)

Or stop your drawers 10-20cm or so below the bench top, leaving a gap for the vice rails, dogs, cramps, etc.


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## wizer (14 Jan 2008)

Sean I have heard great things about The Workbench Book, by Chris Shwarz. This may be a great help. With a proper hardwood bench like this, you don't want to make any expensive mistakes.


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## Chris Knight (14 Jan 2008)

Sean,
re the wide drawers:- I'd only have one or two full width drawers for light stuff (like tee squares etc that need the width. Otherwise I would have two sets of drawers of half width - you'll only find yourself dividing up the wider drawers.

If you want drawers 1.5mm wide to carry any weight, then yes a muntin is essential in my view, otherwise the bottom will sag and probably impede the opening of the drawer underneath.


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## woodbloke (14 Jan 2008)

You'll also find that a good workshop vac is essential to clean out the top drawer 'cos you'll find that all sorts of crud and cr*p finds it's way down the dog holes :lol: :lol: - Rob


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## Jake (14 Jan 2008)

Which is another reason to drop the drawers by one level...


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## seanybaby (14 Jan 2008)

I thought i'd finished the designing bit of my bench, clearly i hadn't thought enough about it. :lol: Plus you lot keep giving me great suggestions.

I can see the advantages of having a bigger stand and also disadvantages of wide drawers.

From the points mentioned, i think i will have to go for half drawers and a cupboard. I can't afford to have more drawers than that.

I just have to work out how to do this incorporating the K/D construction techniques. Originally i was to go for bolts to connect the long rails to end pieces. Now i will need a partition in the middle for the drawer runners to attach to.

For the drawer runners do these from screwfix seem ok? http://www.screwfix.com/prods/19672.../Drawer-Fittings/Side-Fix-Drawer-Runner-450mm
My inside measurement for the drawers is about 500mm so do i go for the 450mm or 400mm runners?


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## wizer (14 Jan 2008)

go with these

http://www.bullerltd.co.uk/product.php/2092/0/

franction more costs but the advantage of full extension


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## seanybaby (14 Jan 2008)

Thanks for the link :wink: Are they really much better?

I ask because they want £9 delivery and i also need to buy bolts, nuts, washers and coach screws. I would sooner get everything in one place at the same time.


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## wizer (14 Jan 2008)

yes delivery is a killer with buller. They are better, but I understand cost has to come into it. I think screwfix do full extension but are a bit more costly. B&Q sell them also.


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## Wanlock Dod (14 Jan 2008)

Sean,

I did as Jake has suggested and have drawers between the legs (a plywood box with drawers in it) and there is then a handy shelf under the bench top for all kinds of stuff. Although I'll admit it probably doesn't look so tidy.

I have abotu a 14 inch overhang at each end beyond the legs of my bench and I've never felt that stability is an issue.

Cheers,

Dod


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## MrJay (14 Jan 2008)

I have to say that I really like the first sketch. It may be lopsided, but it's a long way from unstable. I think it's deceptive, if the bench extended equally on either side there'd be no discussion. My 6ft bench extends roughly a foot and a half either side with legs roughly 3 foot apart and I defy anyone to try and make it wobble; it's like trying to push a house.

If it was me I'd bring the legs forward so they're in the same plane as the front edge of the top and thus useful for supporting deep boards and so on - if you're dead set on draws I'm sure you can bungle something together that has them set back a bit so you can clampify all over the front edge. My bench just has a simple shelf about the stretchers, and while I originally envisaged using it as tool storage it's really very much better reserved as a temporary home for plonking down stuff that's actively in use. My guess is that you should get the top and legs built and then think about adding draws and the particulars of how you go about it after using it a while.


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## seanybaby (15 Jan 2008)

MrJay i think you have hit the nail on the head  

I have been messing around trying to get my big bench even bigger. As long as it doesn't move when in use i will be happy. If i did make it bigger i would need more timber, thus more cash, so i have decided to keep my original design. Your bench sounds about the same dimensions as mine

I have evened out the base and put 300mm each end for the vices, i may have to make that space a little bigger yet. Once i fit the vices i will see what space i have left.

I am intent in having drawers because i need them as easy storage and access to my hand tools. My next question is how long do the drawer runners need to be. I haven't used any before. The drawer will be between 500 -535mm deep. So do i go for 500mm or 450mm runners?


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## seanybaby (15 Jan 2008)

I have been pondering and measuring my mam's kitchen drawers. They are 450mm runners which only come out about 350mm so i have concluded that my bench needs 500mm runners.

I rang screwfix and asked what the depth of groove would be needed on the drawer sides. They couldn't answer that.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/55282/Kitchens/Kitchen-Fittings/Drawer-Fittings/Drawer-Runners-500mm#

Am i right in thinking you can actually put a groove in, instead of mounting them flush?


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## seanybaby (17 Jan 2008)

Got my breadboards and tenons cut today. First time iv'e used a hand router for a length of time, as at college there are big over head routers. I think it went pretty well and i'm less scared of them now


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## seanybaby (1 Feb 2008)

I sized my back rail and did a dry cramp.





Cramped up, and doweled the breadboards on. Only put glue on the first part where the vices will go.





Fit tool tray with with elongated holes and a 10mm gap for expansion.





I did try routing the mortise for my vises, but was a bit too cumbersome. I'm still not confident enough to use the hand router on an assembled piece, so went for the traditional chisel and mallet.


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## OPJ (1 Feb 2008)

Coming along nicely, Sean.

I'd have thought that making an MDF jig and using a handheld router would've been an effective way of cutting those mortices? But, if you're happy enough to use hand tools then, that's to be commended!


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## seanybaby (9 Feb 2008)

This week i have managed to get my base components made. The end panels have been rebated. Next job will be to put the bolts in that hold the 4 long rails to the end panels.


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## seanybaby (23 Feb 2008)

My panel ends will be glued and fixed and the rails will be bolted together so i can knock it down if necessary.






I chiselled a recess so the nut can be dropped in and will not spin when i tighten the bolts.











Next job is to fit my back panel, i'm using beech veneered mdf that college had. Nice to have it all made from the same material, although it's hidden. 4 drawers and runners to fit and some dog holes and i'll be just about done.


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## OPJ (25 Feb 2008)

Looks like it's coming along well. I agree with what you said much earlier about using only half the space below the top for drawers.

Are you using nylon locks nuts with those bolts? They're a pipper to get on and off again but, depending on what kind of work and how much abuse you intend to give your bench, there's no chance of them working lose over time.


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## seanybaby (25 Feb 2008)

No nylon lock nuts, i have a box of 100 normal ones. If they work loose, i'll give a quick tighten as the bolts will be easy to get to. Good idea though


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## seanybaby (11 Mar 2008)

It's about time i updated this thread, i have recently got a woodworking job, so have brought my workbench home to finish.

All i have to do now is finish the vice jaws, dog holes and drawers.

Here's the base at college.





I used a simple drill guide from axminster for the dog holes






















Just 4 dovetail drawers to make now.


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## woodbloke (12 Mar 2008)

Sean - excellent =D> Curious to know why you inset a piece into the front apron of the bench for one of the vice cheeks? I have the same vice in roughly the same place on my bench and opted to fit a separate cheek screwed to the front apron, the main advantage of a separate cheek being that it's then much easier to make up a set of 'soft jaw faces' that slot over the hardwood ones...useful for holding finished or sanded components that you can't afford to damage.
Excellent bench tho'...fitting for a holdfast or no? - Rob


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## Paul Chapman (12 Mar 2008)

Great bench, Sean =D> You must be very pleased with that. Just one small point - I see that you have the dogs positioned at the ends of the cheeks on the end vice. This can sometimes cause some racking if you are using just one of them. If you find it a problem, I would put another dog as close as you can get it to the vice screw and drill a corresponding row of holes along the bench top.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## OPJ (12 Mar 2008)

Glad to see you got it all home in one piece (...well, two, actually!).  

Are the college okay with you taking it home to finish? Does this not affect your assessment in any way?

Good to see the put your bench in the right place too. I've got a similar single-car garage space and my bench is under the window, spanning the width of the garage. If it wasn't more than 8ft bloody long, I'd have moved it already. That'll all change when I come to replace it though - your thread's given me some good ideas, thanks.


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## OPJ (13 Mar 2008)

Is that your article in the latest issue of _Good Wood_?

Well done.


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## seanybaby (13 Mar 2008)

Rob - Both vice cheeks are the same. Good idea, i might change them to incorporate sacrificial jaws. Holdfast? Like a record with a round collar mortised into the bench. If so, no, not at this time. 

Paul - I wanted to be able to clamp up thinish pieces and still hang over edge of the bench, thats why i put the dogs where they are. If i find out they are in the wrong place, i might fill them with some contrasting timber and drill new holes.

Olly - The only thing i'm judged on on my course is the exam, which i still need to do. That would be my mug in the mag :shock: 

I forgot to add that i gave the bench a coat of boiled linseed.
Will be starting my drawers this weekend if i get chance.


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## Paul Chapman (13 Mar 2008)

seanybaby":3rrxeydj said:


> Paul - I wanted to be able to clamp up thinish pieces and still hang over edge of the bench, thats why i put the dogs where they are. If i find out they are in the wrong place, i might fill them with some contrasting timber and drill new holes.



No, don't fill them in. It is useful to have a row of dogs near to the front edge of the bench. My only concern was that for general work it might be useful to have a dog in the centre of the vice jaw and another row of holes so that the vice isn't continually tending to rack or twist because all the pressure is being put on one end of the vice. Another thing you could consider is making up some packing pieces to use on the other end of the vice to stop it racking. Rob (Woodbloke) posted a picture of the ones he made - I'll see if I can find it.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (13 Mar 2008)

Paul Chapman wrote:


> Rob (Woodbloke) posted a picture of the ones he made - I'll see if I can find it.



The soft jaws I made just slipped over the existing hardwood jaws. They can be lined with anything that won't mark the job, cork is ideal, but I used the reverse side of an offcut of Nairn cushion flooring...works a treat - Rob


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## seanybaby (13 Mar 2008)

Oh, i got ya Paul, just another dog in the middle of vice to hold the wider stuff. I saw that pic of Rob's!! Packing pieces, to stop racking. Can't remember the thread though, maybe Rob remembers?

Cheers you 2 ccasion5:


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## woodbloke (13 Mar 2008)

Sean wrote:


> Packing pieces, to stop racking


The thing I did that was different to a standard bench was to include a draw bolted rail at the top of the carcase at the rear. In my particular design the top (mine is 3" thick beech all thru') acts as the main brace so you would have two rectangular end frames with two connecting lower rails and the top. The addition of the third rail at the top at the back of the frame simply is a 'belt and braces' way of ensuring that the bench won't 'rack' in use - Rob


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## seanybaby (15 Jun 2008)

Well i finally finished my drawers. All traditionally dovetailed with MDF bottoms. Fronts are Beech to match bench and sides are Sapele. Everything has had a coat of linseed oil, which will be done again in a few weeks.


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## OPJ (15 Jun 2008)

Great work Sean. Looks like you've also started kitting out your home workshop with machinery as well!


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## Jez (30 Jul 2008)

looks awesome sean, the through dovetails look nice on the front of the drawers 8)


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## Harbo (30 Jul 2008)

Great stuff - you must be proud?

Rod


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## davegw (31 Jul 2008)

Looks superb Sean - Well done!


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## Lynch (9 Aug 2008)

That looks great! Must have been lots of hard work.

It makes mine look like rubbish - if you can call a piece of 25mm MDF reinforced with softwood and woodscrews a workbench .


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## The Shark (9 Aug 2008)

Congratulations Sean, that looks an excellent piece of work.

Do you mind if I ask why you have used boiled linseed oil? (assuming I haven't missed something somewhere). I used to use it all the time, until I was advised by someone on another forum to try Danish Oil. I did, and got on with it so stayed with the danish.
However, a tv cabinet I made in oak in 2002 and oiled with boiled linseed has now aged and is the most beautiful golden colour, so I am contemplating going back to using linseed.
Your opinion would be appreciated.

Malc


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## seanybaby (9 Aug 2008)

Cheers guys :d

I used linseed oil as i happened to get a couple of litres for nowt. I normally use Danish oil on my furniture, although i wouldn't mind trying that osmo oil people on the forum have mentioned.


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## TheTiddles (9 Aug 2008)

Quick question, are the runners exposed when viewed from the front? I doubt it is too noticeable as the drawers are set back and the gap is 12mm per side? Seems like a very efficient idea as you have the look of the exposed dovetails and the durability of good runners all without having to make an overhanging front, nice

Aidan


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## seanybaby (9 Aug 2008)

The runners are exposed, however you hardly see them, i could put a thin strip down to hide them, but can't be bothered.


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## Chris Knight (10 Aug 2008)

It's a great looking bench Sean. It'll last a lifetime.


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## esincox (18 Aug 2008)

Sean,

Great looking bench!

You're lucky you can talk about using Record vices in such a nonchalant way! Here in the states, we have no easy direct access to those wonderful tools so we're left to such devices as eBay and Craig's List. I suppose we could order from the UK, but I can't even imagine trying to add shipping costs to that $250 price tag!

(Fortunately for me, I found a great 30 year old 52 1/2 in excellent working condition for just $60 (about 30 quid) a few months ago on Craig's List. A new workbench is high up on my woodworking priority list, so it will soon be put to good use.)

Cheers,


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