# Which oil for my lathe?



## brianhabby (9 Sep 2013)

Hello all,

Which oil should I use?

I have a Smart & Brown SABEL Lathe and would like some advice on which oil I should use. I haven't used the lathe much since obtaining it some months ago but am starting to use it more of late.

The instruction book talks about Gargoyle DTE Oil Light but I have no idea where to obtain it.

I have seen some on eBay Item No. 171105075801

Would that be suitable?

Any advice on this subject would be more than welcome.

regards


Brian


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## CHJ (9 Sep 2013)

Ordinary SAE 30 Motor oil should be fine for general use on the lathe. 
Nowhere on the machine will bearings and sliding surfaces be subjected to the loads found in an auto engine.


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## monkeybiter (10 Sep 2013)

+1
When I bought my Harrison L5 from Pemmsa in Dewsbury I had also bought some gear oil to keep the g'box sump topped up. The sellers, who were ex Harrison engineers apparently, advised that this was 'far too good' and that cheap engine oil would be fine.


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## Inspector (10 Sep 2013)

My Lathe, a 13x37, calls for Mobil DTE light or ISO 32 equivalent. The Chevron oil I got of the ISO 32 spec is actually a hydraulic oil for tractors etc., and was in the $80 range for a 20 litre pail. I got it at an automotive parts supplier but could have found it at a lower price at any place selling the oil for farmers and contractors.

Pete


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## Random Orbital Bob (10 Sep 2013)

My RP CL4 manual recommends their super dooper specially formulated in the crotch of a Himalayan Monks jockstrap and then slowly distilled in oak barrels for 400 years before passing through the digestive system of a Sheffield steel worker. Which...surprise surprise....is really expensive.

However....at the bottom of the page in very small print it also says SAE 30 motor oil will also do (begrudgingly)

Oddly...it works a treat


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## AES (10 Sep 2013)

+1 for SAE 30 oil.

I only have a Chiwanese import and it said nothing in the "Handbook" about oil (actually it said very little about anything at all in the Handbook !!!), even though being one of the slightly better Chinese machines ("Real Bull"), it does have oilers.

But checking around places such as the Model Engineer website (where this query comes up quite frequently) the consensus was "ordinary/cheap" SAE 30 would be fine. So far (about 6 or 7 years now), I've had no problems at all.

But even though I'm in the (warm) cellar I do keep the lathe covered all the time when not in use, and I do give it a quick oiling (and swarf removal) after EVERY use.

Hope that helps.

AES


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## Inspector (10 Sep 2013)

Don't use detergent oil. It is designed to keep "stuff" in suspension, that in a car, would be cleaned out by the oil filter. Non-detergent oil lets any particles settle to the bottom of the gearbox rather than be chewed over and over. 

Pete


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## CHJ (10 Sep 2013)

Inspector":2nys2t71 said:


> Don't use detergent oil. It is designed to keep "stuff" in suspension, that in a car, would be cleaned out by the oil filter. Non-detergent oil lets any particles settle to the bottom of the gearbox rather than be chewed over and over.
> 
> Pete


Can also increase the rattle factor on old machinery if it flushes out the build up from the nooks and crannies.

More years ago than I care to recall with any enthusiasm, a work colleague who had an Austin A55 from new made the mistake of buying some ultra detergent oil regularly advertised as the best and brightest in his car club mag.
It cleaned out the rubbish within a couple of weeks OK, precisely as advertised, enforcing another filter change because it blocked the one fitted with the new oil and resulted in pressure loss because the relief valve opened.
It also tripled his subsequent oil consumption because it cleaned out all the accumulated junk from the piston ring grooves.


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## porker (10 Sep 2013)

I use ISO32 spec for my myford. This is the same spec as that recommended by Myford but I won't buy the tiny quantities of Nuto 32 offered by the model engineering suppliers. It is also called hydraulic oil and they sell it at agricultural suppliers in gallon (5L).


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## brianhabby (12 Sep 2013)

Okay folks, thanks for taking the trouble to reply. 

I was surprised to see the suggestions to use motor car oil. I have been reluctant to use oil designed for cars as pretty much everything I have read so far seems to indicate it is not good for the lathe. I think it is to do with the additives that are in it and as mentioned above these additives keep stuff in suspension.

I might try an agriculteral supplier to see if I can get hold of the hydraulic oil mentioned. 

No one has commented on the Nuto 32 oil I mentioned on eBay, does anyone have an opinion on this please? Link here

regards 

Brian


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## AndyT (12 Sep 2013)

Thanks for asking this. It confirms what I had already decided for my hundred year old Barnes treadle powered lathe. I have some old very basic engine oil which seems to be working fine. Unless I've missed any, there are 15 little open holes where oil can be dripped into the places where one piece of metal rubs against another. Nice and simple!


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## CHJ (12 Sep 2013)

brianhabby":1u4teqqb said:


> .....I might try an agriculteral supplier to see if I can get hold of the hydraulic oil mentioned.
> 
> .....


Take great care with any oil marketed specifically as 'Hydraulic Oil', the majority have a very low load bearing function, (they don't have to keep two working surfaces apart) and a good many of them will strip the paint off you machinery quicker than most paint strippers.

Most are quite good at emulsifying with water so can take up atmospheric moisture with ease. (one of the reasons for changing the fluid at intervals in cars)

If you don't believe me try dribbling some of your car brake fluid on a nice painted surface.


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## wizard (12 Sep 2013)

i just type lathe oil into eBay, simples


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## porker (12 Sep 2013)

CHJ":2vtxyod1 said:


> brianhabby":2vtxyod1 said:
> 
> 
> > .....I might try an agriculteral supplier to see if I can get hold of the hydraulic oil mentioned.
> ...



I use an ISO32 grade hydraulic oil and it is the spec recommended by the manufacturer. It definitely isn't like brake fluid as said this will strip paint and is nasty stuff. I thought ATF fluid and brake fluid were similar but different to hydraulic oil?


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## woodfarmer (17 Sep 2013)

My Massey Ferguson uses shell 15/40 tractor oil for engine, gearbox and hydraulics.


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## velocette (18 Dec 2013)

Hi 
No one has recommended us chain saw bar oil for lathe slides and bushes. Cheap enough and gives good protection as it is has an additive the keep it from being readily thrown off.
Would NOT recommend for headstock gear box as its tackiness leaves "Lace Curtains" when used on gears.

Eric


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## MARK.B. (18 Dec 2013)

Random Orbital Bob said:


> My RP CL4 manual recommends their super dooper specially formulated in the crotch of a Himalayan Monks jockstrap and then slowly distilled in oak barrels for 400 years before passing through the digestive system of a Sheffield steel worker. Which...surprise surprise....is really expensive.
> 
> 
> Bob
> Himalayan Monk's jockstrap (woven from Lama hair i believe) ,these chaps are easily found hanging around old buildings on top of remote mountains so that part is do'able. 400 years in a oak barrel is a little harder but given enough time this to is also do'able , but a steel worker from Sheffield is a very very rare and precious commodity these days so its no wonder that super dooper lathe oil is so friggin expensive :lol:


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## woodfarmer (18 Dec 2013)

velocette":mcyvwrti said:


> Hi
> No one has recommended us chain saw bar oil for lathe slides and bushes. Cheap enough and gives good protection as it is has an additive the keep it from being readily thrown off.
> Would NOT recommend for headstock gear box as its tackiness leaves "Lace Curtains" when used on gears.
> 
> Eric



Chainsaw oil is normally water soluble. I would not use it or advise anyone else to use it.


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## Grahamshed (19 Dec 2013)

MARK.B.":camlss8n said:


> Random Orbital Bob":camlss8n said:
> 
> 
> > My RP CL4 manual recommends their super dooper specially formulated in the crotch of a Himalayan Monks jockstrap and then slowly distilled in oak barrels for 400 years before passing through the digestive system of a Sheffield steel worker. Which...surprise surprise....is really expensive.
> ...


You have to doff your hat to someone who can get to the heart of a problem so precisely


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