# Dave's Metal Stuff



## DTR

I've been doing more metalwork jobs than woodwork as of late, so I thought I'd post some stuff up. 

My Hobbies wood lathe has a blind morse taper socket in the spindle, so I can't just bump out the centres from the opposite end. Apparently this is quite common on older lathes. Until now I've been twisting the centres out, but I've never been happy with this. Then when Doris bought her Coronet, I realised this has a centre ejector. It screws onto the spindle nose, and simply pulls out the centre when unscrewed. I thought this was a brilliant idea, so I endeavoured to make one....

I started by making a mandrel threaded the same as the Hobbies spindle nose. This will serve as a gauge for the ejector's internal thread, and also as a way of holding the ejector for machining:







Then I hacksawed off a lump of bar for the ejector. I chucked it, faced off one end, then flipped it over and faced off the opposite end. Then I drilled a 1/2" hole straight through (sorry, no photos). 

Next I bored the hole out to the tapping size of my spindle nose (7/8 BSW). This is a blind bore, leaving a "cap" at the end of the ejector. Then I screw cut the internal thread. I cut the thread almost to full depth:






And finished the thread with a tap:






Now the ejector can be screwed onto the mandrel and the two are mounted back in the lathe. A skim cut is taken to clean up the outside:






And then the ejector is knurled:






Finally the knurling is tidied up:






The almost-finished ejector. All that's left to do is to drill a hole for a tommy bar, just in case it gets stuck


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## AndyT

Neat, tidy and very satisfying!

I've got something similar on my wood lathe, bought from Axminster and called by them a "thread protector." But it's more fun to make your own than scout around for the right size, in stock etc.


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## blackrodd

A pleasure to see another job well done. Nice bit of knurling with the spacing too!
Rodders


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## AES

Nice bit of work there DTR, you should be very proud of that. =D> 

Especially the knurling - nice and "crisp & deep & even"! (not easy to do when you start off - DAMHIKT).

Thanks for posting

AES


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## DTR

Thanks chaps


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## DTR

Now in use


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## woodpig

Nice job, that will makes things easier for you.


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## Togalosh

DTR, that looks ace !


(I've spotted more tools I haven't got.. yet )


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## timber

DTR":27nix4pw said:


> Now in use



I do like the knurling, what sort of knurl did you use single or double and where can I get one from ?? I did have a single but needed a fair bit of pressure. Went with a lathe I sold
Thanks Timber


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## DTR

Hi Timber,

The knurler is a cheap, 2-wheel clamp type. I probably got it from RDG or Chronos, but I can't remember which now:
http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/INDU ... 09087.html

I used to use a vintage 2-wheel "side pressure" type, the sort that carries two wheels on a pivot and ploughs in sideways. I think that one actually worked better, but I was wary of using it because of the load it imposes o the lathe bearings. Maybe one day I'll transplant the wheels from the vintage one onto the new one....


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## monkeybiter

DTR":kdeea8me said:


> The knurler is a cheap, 2-wheel clamp type...........
> I used to use a vintage 2-wheel "side pressure" type............... but I was wary of using it because of the load it imposes on the lathe bearings



I have one of each and, like you I prefer the 'squeeze' type rather than the 'push' for the same reason. I seem to remember that you can buy knurling wheels on there own, so you can alter courseness or pitch etc., or just renew worn wheels.

Just had a look at Chronos's site, amazed, the knurling tools really are quite cheap.


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## timber

monkeybiter":24cf4nfl said:


> DTR":24cf4nfl said:
> 
> 
> 
> The knurler is a cheap, 2-wheel clamp type...........
> I used to use a vintage 2-wheel "side pressure" type............... but I was wary of using it because of the load it imposes on the lathe bearings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have one of each and, like you I prefer the 'squeeze' type rather than the 'push' for the same reason. I seem to remember that you can buy knurling wheels on there own, so you can alter courseness or pitch etc., or just renew worn wheels.
> 
> Just had a look at Chronos's site, amazed, the knurling tools really are quite cheap.
Click to expand...

Thanks DTR And Mike
I will have to order one. It does make ones work more professional.
I have a bit of kit that came with a job lot I bought that does similar decorative stuff on bowls etc. Haven't tried it yet as I am not into bowl making.
Regards
Timber


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## monkeybiter

I strongly recommend the 'squeeze' type, better for your headstock bearing.

Tip:- after your first pass [left to right or vice versa] if you keep the knurls engaged you can then nip the pinch-bolt up a little and gently/slowly traverse back the way you came for a second deeper go.


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## DTR

monkeybiter":3gm4o0go said:


> Tip:- after your first pass [left to right or vice versa] if you keep the knurls engaged you can then nip the pinch-bolt up a little and gently/slowly traverse back the way you came for a second deeper go.



+1 to that


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## DTR

This week's job - making a flycutter for the BCA....

Blank arbor chucked and turned down ready for screw cutting:






Screw cut the thread:






Drilled and tapped a lump of rod and screwed that onto the end:






Then I took a skim off the face and diameter to make it true with the arbor (no photos). 

Next I clamped the flycutter into a vee block fixture bolted to the cross slide. This fixture holds round stock centred on the lathe centre height for cross-drilling. The vee block has been bolted down at a 45* angle to the lathe axis. A 1/4" hole is drilled and reamed for the tool bit, then the fixture is rotated 90* to drill for a clamping screw:






And finally the flycutter in place on the BCA:


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## DTR

More bits for the Hobbies wood lathe....

The Hobbies came with a homemade banjo, and the socket bore is bigger than the post on the tool rest. To take up the slack I'll make an intermediate bush. In hindsight I should have just made a new banjo, perhaps I'll come back to that. 

Chucked a lump of steel and turned down the outside diameter to match the banjo. Then bored out the insides to fit the post on the tool rest:






Then parted off:











Next I'm going to split it lengthways so that it closes around the post when the banjo nut is tightened


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## woodpig

I missed your Flycutter post, very handy tool. I bought mine and it takes a 3/8" sq HSS tool bit but I sometimes swap this out for a home made carbide insert holder I made for it The HSS is really nice on aluminium alloy but the carbide comes in handy for some of the tougher steels.

Nice job on the tool post adaptor. Will you use a slitting saw on it for the cut?


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## DTR

Thanks woodpig 

Yes, I'm a fan of flycutters. I often used to use one made from an old 4" backplate on the lathe (it currently needs re-boring to fit the ML7). Good thinking with the insert holder; if I ever dip my toe into insert tooling I might follow suit. How do you find the inserts hold up to the intermittent cut?

Yes I'll be using a slitting saw. I made up an arbor for the BCA a few weeks ago; this will be its first outing


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## AES

Once again DTR, you've shown that you're really an ace at making good quality useful stuff on the lathe - AND photographing it well too. Definitely an inspiration to "dabblers" like myself.

=D>

AES


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## woodpig

Long story short Dave but I had the idea of using a round carbide insert in my flycutter but dismissed it as I figured an interrupted cut would chip the insert. A couple of hours later I read somewhere on the net about another guy who had the same idea and it worked fine. The inserts I use are 12mm round and are quite thick.

Update: found a picture of it.






The inserts are slightly concave as you would expect but you can sharpen them on a diamond plate and they still cut ok.


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## DTR

Now to split the bush...

Clamped up against an angle plate as I don't have a suitable vice. The foreshortening of the camera makes this setup look a lot more ropey than it actually is







In order to find the "equator", for want of a better word, I've measured the height with a vernier height gauge:






... then subtracted half the diameter and marked the height. My height gauge only goes down to 1.5" so I had to switch to a surface gauge:






Then I lined up the slitting saw with the mark and had at it. 






Finally the split bush, and in place on the banjo. The tool rest post is gripped a lot better now:











Yes, I really should make a new banjo...


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## DTR

AES":1erc5m1c said:


> Once again DTR, you've shown that you're really an ace at making good quality useful stuff on the lathe - AND photographing it well too. Definitely an inspiration to "dabblers" like myself.
> 
> =D>
> 
> AES



You're far too kind  The photos were taken on an iPhone for convenience. I really should dig out the Nikon. 



woodpig":1erc5m1c said:


> Update: found a picture of it.
> 
> ....
> 
> The inserts are slightly concave as you would expect but you can sharpen them on a diamond plate and they still cut ok.



I like that. I've always assumed that my lathe, and the mill especially, were too small to drive insert tools. But I've seen others do it, so maybe I'll try it one day


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## woodpig

Nice job on the slitting.
The "little Hogger" set of three carbide insert mills at Chronos works well as long as you run them fast enough.


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## AES

Interesting. My little lathe is a "Red Bull" or "Red Dog" or something (badged by Einhell) rather than the very similar Chinese Sieg lathes, but I always thought it was too small and not rigid enough to handle insert tooling so I've never tried. Perhaps I should think again, although I do think my lathe is even less rigid than both yours gents.

Liked the slitting job too. Not tried that, on the rare occasions I've needed to slit I've used an abrasive cutting disc ("Speed Click") in a hand-held Dremel tool. Works OK, but obviously not as accurate as a slitting saw correctly mounted on the lathe.

Even more food for thought, thanks all. And IMHO your work IS good DTR (and yours too woodpig).

AES


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## woodpig

What actual size is your "Red Bull"? My lathe is an 8" X 14" and I use insert tooling sometimes. These days there are "hobby" sized inserts that are more suitable for small machines. I've bought most of mine from these folks at one of the model engineering shows but they now have a website:

http://www.jbcuttingtools.com

HSS still has a place on small machines though and I use a Tangential tool holder for much of my work as HSS is much cheaper than buying inserts!


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## AES

Also 8 x 14 woodpig. Thanks for the tooling link, I'll keep it in mind.

Mostly though I also use the tangential tool holder with HSS inserts. Cheap and easy to sharpen (especially with the little jig that comes with the tool - this is the Aussie bought one I'm talking about, not a DIY version, though I think someone on here - was it you? - did a lovely home-built version).

AES


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## DTR

AES":w0nuwm8g said:


> Mostly though I also use the tangential tool holder with HSS inserts. Cheap and easy to sharpen (especially with the little jig that comes with the tool - this is the Aussie bought one I'm talking about, not a DIY version, though I think someone on here - was it you? - did a lovely home-built version).
> 
> AES



If it's the one I'm thinking of, it was indeed Woodpig's (Arbalist)


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## woodpig

Yes I have made a couple. The big one is a pleasure to use on my little lathe but is too cumbersome to get around a live centre hence the carbide tooling which is very compact. Horses for courses as they say!


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## AES

OK thanks DTR. Sorry I couldn't remember who made it but it certainly was a nice piece of work by someone who knows 'is onions.

AES


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## woodpig

Was it this one?  There were a few folks on another forum that thought it was some kind of 3D render so I had to post a few more pictures to show it was real! :lol:


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## AES

Yup, that's what I remember. Nice bit of work, thanks.

AES


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## DTR

As posted elsewhere... The blade tensioner thingy on my Dad's cheapo mitre saw has stripped its thread.... so I made a new one


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## woodpig

Too nice Dave, can't you beat it up a bit so it looks like the original?! :lol:


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## DTR

So, for some inexplicable reason, I bought a Super Adept a few weekends ago....






We're not quite sure what we're going to use it for yet (Doris just thought it was cute!) but it could be useful for turning small bits. It's a shame the top / compound slide is missing, but not really a game-changer. Beneath the toolpost there is a threaded stud and bush. Both were turned on the wonk so I've already replaced both of those. The Adepts were never finished to a high standard, and I found that this one rocks because the bottom of the foot is a lumpy, unfinished casting. So I milled the bottom flat:






The next thing to overcome is the spindle. The supplied chuck isn't much good, but the spindle nose is threaded 3/8" BSF, which isn't in common use for lathe chucks. So I've made up a new spindle with an M14 x 1 nose on the end. Shaft turned between centres in the hope that it will be somewhere close to concentric:






Rotated end-for-end and turned down to 14mm for the nose:






Screwcut the M14 thread on the nose:






Milled a flat on the shaft for the driving pulley's grub screw:






And finally installed on the Adept:


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## woodpig

Nice little Lathe, sure to come in handy for something.


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## Water-Mark

I'd love one of those.

They do seem to fetch strong money though.

Keep up the good work.


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## AES

QUOTE: So, for some inexplicable reason, I bought a Super Adept a few weekends ago.... UNQUOTE:

I can think of several explanations, no trouble at all DTR!  

Once again, VERY nice work, thanks for posting.

AES


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## DTR

More work on the Adept.....

The bearings on the headstock and countershaft could do with some oil caps. I lined up the existing oil holes using whatever drill bit fit:






Then drilled out and tapped M6. I used the pillar drill to keep the taper tap plumb: 






Then finished off away from the drill. It felt a bit odd tapping a metric thread into pre-war British cast iron....






The oil caps don't sit flush due to the unfinished thread up by the shoulder....






.... so I drilled out the first mm or so of the thread to give a clearance. Now if only I'd ordered enough oil caps......+


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## graduate_owner

Reading these posts makes me think I really MUST get back into the workshop. Get the decorating over wifh now, then a load of weeding and grass cutting, and perhaps I will be able to get turnng on my colchester. I have a thread adapter to make to allow me to use my chuck on 2 differently threaded headstocks ( graduate and viceroy). I haven't done much tbread work yet - should be a challenge.

K


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## DTR

A bit of an update on the Super Adept.... Here it is mounted with the countershaft and motor on an oak plinth:






The plinth is a bit undersize because it was a random offcut I had knocking about. It does the job though. I still need to buy a chuck, and figure out what to do with the tailstock. 

I appreciate that a sense of scale can be lost with online photos, so to demonstrate the truly industrial proportions of the Super Adept, here it is next to a fully-grown Essex Lion:


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## DTR

So Doris has a "third hand" type stand for when her carvings involve soldering, similar to this one...







...but she found it a bit lacking. The latest project is to make a better engineered one:
















And with the croc clips borrowed from the original stand, until I make some better arms:


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## AES

Once again, a LOVELY bit of knurling on the thumb screw DTR - and all the rest looks very "pro" too. Nice.

AES


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## woodpig

That knurling does look good. Good enough to make yourself a wood turning texturing tool I would have thought?!


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## AES

And BTW DTR, I don't know what thread the mandrel/nose is on the Adept, but as you're looking for a chuck (s?), I can recommend Arc Euro Trade without hesitation - usual disclaimers. I bought a couple of bigger ones for my little Chinese lathe (3 & 4 jaw - backplate system, not threaded) and out of the box they were pretty accurate on run out (+/- 0.2 mm if I remember correctly) and at quite reasonable prices too I thought.

HTH

AES


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## DTR

Thanks AES, I have already been an Arc customer on numerous happy occasions  I'm holding out for a chuck on e**y at the moment, but as I keep forgetting to bid....


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## AES

OK DTR, glad you know Arc. I've had nothing but good experiences with them. But re the bay, as my Aussie friends always said (about their national lottery) "You've got be in it to win it mate"!

(hammer) 

AES


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## Harbo

Here's another happy Arc customer - they used to attend the MEX shows but sadly gave up a couple of years ago.

That's very nice work again Dave

Rod


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## DTR

Here's my current project, a tapping stand. The usual advice with tapping is to tap while the work is still under the pillar drill (off power, turned by hand) in order to keep the tap square with the hole. That's how I've tapped for years, but I always end up rapping my knuckles on something whilst trying to turn the chuck. There are lots of homemade tapping stands on the web, often made from old drill stands, so finally I'm making my own. 

I have an old crusty drill stand, but the original drill holder isn't easily adaptable for what I want, so I've made a new arm from some random aluminium bar. First off, milling the end of the bar square. My mill is nowhere near big enough for this, so I'm using the lathe instead:











It was then sawn to length and the opposite end milled square. After marking out, it was mounted on the cross slide to bore the locking holes. Started out with a pilot drill, then followed up with a 3/4" drill:











The hole left by the 3/4" drill was accurate enough for the locking shafts. Next the bar was rotated 90* to bore the holes for the pillar and tapping spindle. By boring both without disturbing the bar on the cross slide, they should in theory be parallel. Started out by drilling as before:






Then followed up with a boring head:











Apart from going larger than my biggest drill (the 3/4"), using the boring head resulted in a much more accurate, better finished bore. I can live with the drilled holes for the locking shafts, but I wanted the bore for the pillar to be a close fit. 

(Not pictured: making a new boring bar for the boring head, or making a new draw bar from a rusty iron hand wheel and a rod salvaged from a printer.....)


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## DTR

Then for the clamps that lock the arm to the pillar. These are just a simple turning job with a chamfer milled on the end:











The arm mounted onto the (crusty old) drill stand:






The black-headed screw is temporary until I turn some kind of knob or lever for the locking clamp. The vertical bore at the opposite end of the arm is for the tapping spindle. Originally this was just going to be sized for the spindle. Then I realised that I could bore it out larger to take an interchangeable bush to make it a bit more versatile. Not that I know what else I could use it for yet....


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## AES

@DTR.

As always, a consistently high standard of work from you Dave. Thanks for posting - always an inspiration for a bodger like me.

BTW, I echo your sentiments about shafts from printers 100%. I have a couple from scrapped inkjet printers and with a normal 0-1 inch mic, or a vernier caliper, I can measure no difference in diameter along the whole length. Finish is brilliant too.

=D> 

AES


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## DTR

Thank you 

I have been reliably informed by SWMBO that it's not from a printer, it's from a photographic enlarger. It thought it was safe hiding amongst the salvaged printer rods, but it was wrong  Whatever it was, it already had the right thread on the end to fit the boring head. All I had to do was screw cut the other end. 

I absolutely agree, printers are a great source of accurate rods. I use one for aligning the tailstock.


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## DTR

Some progress (of sorts) with the tapping stand... 

Making a thumbscrew for the pillar locking clamp thingy. Turned some steel down and threaded the end:






Drilled and tapped a 1BA hole to take some tommy bars:






(Oh, if only I had a tapping stand *sigh*)

Now to cut the 1BA outside thread on the tommy bars. Where did I put the 1BA die again? Oh that's right, I don't have one #-o . Botherations! (or something to that effect) 

Started again, and this time tapped it *2*BA :roll: 






Also turned the bush to take the tapping spindle. It's just some 1" stock, faced either end and drilled out to 1/2". I was expecting the drilled hole to be oversized, but my 1/2" stock refuses to go through. I am now awaiting a 1/2" reamer to arrive in the post......


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## TFrench

This looks like a really neat job! Thanks for sharing it.


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## woodpig

Nice work. I don't have space for a tapping stand so I use a tapping guide in the Mill.

http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info%5f318221%2ehtml

I've got a couple of home made ones and a shop bought that I had to remake as it was a bit wobbly!


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## AndyT

Geeat work and an inspiring answer to the question 'what can I make next?'

I love the way that your first project brings in the necessity of other projects too.


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## DTR

Thanks chaps  



woodpig":yym9bhgp said:


> Nice work. I don't have space for a tapping stand so I use a tapping guide in the Mill.
> 
> http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info%5f318221%2ehtml
> 
> I've got a couple of home made ones and a shop bought that I had to remake as it was a bit wobbly!



I've got one of those, but the limited head room on my mill and drill means I've rarely got the space to use it.


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## woodpig

Yes, I know what you mean. I only just have enough room on my mill to use the guide. Plenty more on the bench drill but I rarely use it that way for some reason.


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## monkeybiter

You can put the shank of the tap in the chuck as a guide, jaws snug but not tight, then turn the tap by 'non-standard' means. I have used the tap holder to grip the flutes at the back end of the threaded portion, I've never chipped a tap, probably dulled some edges but only on the least used/unused portion. You could always grind some flats on the shank.


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## woodpig

monkeybiter":38t19ui6 said:


> You can put the shank of the tap in the chuck as a guide.



That's how I start the tap, I then undo the chuck and put the tapping guide in it.


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## DTR

I've never tried that, I'll have to give it a go. Thanks for the tip. 

The reamer I ordered turned up the other morning, and thanks to its fifteen seconds of glory, I now have a tapping stand











I'm not sure what I want to do with the handle, so I've left it as a floating Tommy bar for now. I might incorporate some kind of knurled knob for use with small taps. The spring is just there to stop the spindle dropping to the bottom with a clang.


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## n0legs

Looks the business Dave =D>


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## TFrench

Looks great. You could knurl a section of the shaft above the chuck for using with small taps?


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## DTR

I never thought of doing something at the chuck end, that's a good idea. Thanks!


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## Eric The Viking

That's nice! 

I recognise a Black & Decker Mk. 2 drill stand when I see one! 

The original clamp carried the drills with two locating pins at the front and a wide hole on-axis at the back, for a clamping screw. I still have mine in occasional use, when it's really handy for making good square holes in the middle of boards, or anything else I can't get under the drill press. The B+D drill it usually gets used with is a transitional one - plastic body but has both the locating lugs on the front and a collar around the shaft, for the now-standard clamp designs.

So whenever it gets retired from that purpose (and I get my long coveted Super Seven), I'll know what to make with it


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## whoknows

=D> =D> =D> =D>


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## DTR

Eric The Viking":3jzxwaxc said:


> I recognise a Black & Decker Mk. 2 drill stand when I see one!



I'll have to take your word for that, but you've described it to a T! Unfortunately the clamp / moving head is in just as crusty condition as the base, albeit still functional. There's another variety of drill stand that only has a single clamping ring for the drill. I've seen a few of these fitted with a bush to take a tapping spindle; a far simpler conversion than my one!


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## ncollar

Dave
You have made some very nice thing, I am amazed how some can take a trash pile and make a very good tool. The bushing on the banjo, I guess why make a new one when the bushing made it like new. Very nice fix. 
I stand amazed.
Nelson


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## DTR

Thank you Nelson 

The Hobbies lathe that I made that bush for may reappear in this thread very soon...... the head and tailstock sockets are non-standard stub-length 1MTs. Unfortunately it's the narrow end of the taper rather than the "business" end, so it's not as simple as just cutting a standard 1MT shank to fit. Up till now I've been turning down standard shanks to fit, but this is a pain. Enough is enough, I'm going to bore out the tapers to make them standard......


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## Togalosh

Dave, that's ace !.. I didn't know such thing existed .. but I have struggled to tap straight & wondered how the hell it should be done.

I want one.

Stoopid question; can you then use this with a die as well ? (Obviously not in that chuck)

Togs


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## DTR

Thanks Togs  Not my idea, obviously, just my interpretation. There are one or two commercially available options, but it's cheap and simple to knock one together from scrap. 

I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work with a die. All it would need is a mandrel to suit a common tailstock die holder. Having a lathe though I've never felt the need.


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## Togalosh

DTR":21sna48x said:


> Thanks Togs  but it's .. simple to knock one together ..



Ah, you assume too much of my skills & tooling, but thank you.

My lathe is yet to run & it's been 12 months since I bought it (& all the upgrade kit).. ho hum.


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## DTR

I've been working on the screw and nut for my Hi Vice, as posted in my other thread. But not everything has gone to plan.......

I started by facing off the nut block in the chuck. Then I drilled a tapping hole in the block:







Screwcutting the thread:






I screwcut most of the way, then finished with a tap. 

That's when I discovered it had gone pear shaped. I found that the tapped hole wasn't square to the face of the nut. At first I thought the tap must have wandered off course, but the thread crests were all even (they would be different thicknesses if the tap had wandered). I can only guess that the block must have shifted after I faced it off, but before cutting the thread. Ho Hum, I'll come back to that later......

Onto the vice screw. Facing off a long bar:






Then turned everything but the screw head down to diameter. Some hogging later...






Screwcutting the thread:






And drilling a cross-hole for the tommy bar:


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## DTR

Now to fix that nut!

I found a random bit of pipe / conduit and faced either end. Then I mounted the tap used earlier in the chuck, and slid the conduit over the top:






Next I tightened the nut up against the conduit and used the tap as a mandrel:






Now the nut can be faced off perpendicular to the thread axis. One face done, one to go.....


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## dickm

That IS ingenious. One to file away in the unreliable memory cells for future reference.


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## n0legs

Good solution Dave =D> 
As always, watching with interest


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## DTR

dickm":1n6ou3h9 said:


> That IS ingenious. One to file away in the unreliable memory cells for future reference.



More of a bodge to get me out of a tight spot (hammer)


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## Eric The Viking

Dave, you're just showing off.

And long may it continue -- I'm learning loads 

Best, etc.

E.


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## AES

+1 for EtV's comment (and others). Not only good motivation Dave, but a lot of good thinking to be picked up from your posts and - hopefully - applied to my own work.

Thanks for posting.

AES


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## DTR

Making the garter that captures the leadscrew.....

Marked out:






Fixing screw holes drilled on the pillar drill:






And boring the hole for the leadscrew. Normally I'd do this sort of job on the lathe, but I thought I'd try out the boring head on the mill:






Next I need to trim it to length, then saw it in half....


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## dickm

Super work, but WHO butchered the table on that pillar drill? Don't think I've ever seen one that bad!


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## DTR

The previous owner pleaded ignorance. Having said that, the pillar drill was made in the 1940s so it's probably got some stories to tell. I have heard of people filling the holes with weld then grinding it back flush.

The table on my mill looks like the surface of the moon too :roll:


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## pcb1962

DTR":1x3epbym said:


> The previous owner pleaded ignorance. Having said that, the pillar drill was made in the 1940s so it's probably got some stories to tell. I have heard of people filling the holes with weld then grinding it back flush.



Isopon P38 should be perfectly adequate


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## DTR

pcb1962":1tig4uel said:


> Isopon P38 should be perfectly adequate



Hmmm interesting idea. The filler won't reinforce the weakened table like welding would, but it would be an easy way of levelling it. Thanks for the suggestion


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## DTR

Finishing the garter......












The finished screw with tommy bar:






And finally the finished vice:


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## n0legs

Looks brilliant Dave =D>


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## AES

Great job!

=D> 

AES


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## AndyT

That looks great, especially in the moody lighting.
I predict that it will inspire more people to extend their woodworking with a bit of metalwork.


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## DTR

AndyT":2h2kt7c5 said:


> especially in the moody lighting.



That's a very sanguine way of putting it :lol: 

Thanks chaps 8)


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## adidat

thats beautiful dave!

adidat


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## DTR

It's been a while since I posted anything in here, not that I've been making much apart from thumbscrews.... Here's something a little more interesting, a flanged threaded thingamabob for one of Doris' projects. 

Started with a lump of aluminium and faced off both ends:











Turned down the diameter to form the flange, shoulder and OD for the threaded portion:






Set the gear train up to cut a 14tpi screwthread. As it's such a short length (and in ally too), it was easier to use a mandrel handle than keep starting and stopping the lathe on power:






Part II coming up........


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## DTR

Part II

Finished screw thread:






Not pictured, but next I drilled a 1/2" hole through the middle. 

Then I hit a snag. I intended to reverse the stock in the chuck and finish the flange, but I found there wasn't any way to fit it in the jaws (at least not safely, or at risk of damaging something). Instead I turned up a random stub into a mandrel that closely fit the 1/2" hole I'd drilled earlier:






Then the thingamabob could be mounted either way around on the mandrel, and secured with a screw and thick washer:






As an added bonus, this method also ensures that all of the outside diameters will be concentric with the bore. Not that it's important on this job. 

Part III coming up......


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## DTR

Part III

Just needed to drill some mounting holes around the flange now. The rotary table on the BCA is perfect for this sort of job:






Finished flanged thingamabob:
















Thanks for looking!


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## AndyT

Very nice!
But what does it do? #-o


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## AES

EXACTLY my own reaction and question too Andy!

Come on Dave "thingamybob" just doesn't cut it in these "high tech" days!  

Nice work BTW, as was your chest in another thread - accomplished metal AND woodworker eh?


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## novocaine

Well that looks suspiciously like a back plate. But we shall call it a flange, because people seem to find that word funny.

Tidy bit of work that Dave.


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## DTR

I've said too much already! Official Secrets Act and all that, very hush hush. I'll give you a hint though, the thread is 14tpi with an OD of 0.825".......

Thanks chaps


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## AES

Well in that case Dave, even if I do guess what it is, I s'pose you'd have to kill me for making it public


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## Bm101

DTR":2pupyjv3 said:


> I've said too much already! Official Secrets Act and all that, very hush hush. I'll give you a hint though, the thread is 14tpi with an OD of 0.825".......
> 
> Thanks chaps


That's one of two parts used for connecting the rod of a Unicorns mouthing bit (that as opposed to a D ring snaffle) 
It's important to deep mouth your unicorn early in training of course. Unlike horses you don't want those blighters tossing their heads at you. Dangerous game that. It's either a horn in an eye or magical unicorn mane glitter all over you best riding breeches. No one wants that, it's a pita to get out.
Ask me another. Go on. Last one was too easy.


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