# Tips to make your work go more smoothly



## johnelliott (22 Sep 2004)

Whilst using my festool saw and guide rail system to rip an 8 foot sheet, I discovered that the saw runs much better if I don't stand on the cable. It's not so much my 16 stone stopping the electricity getting through but the fact that the cable isn't sufficiently elastic to stretch a couple of metres.
John


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## Noel (22 Sep 2004)

If you are concerned that the light in your fridge does not go out when the door is closed, here is a simple and handy solution - gently drill a small hole in the door. When the door is closed you can now see if the light goes out.

Noel, ex Viz reader....


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## Philly (22 Sep 2004)

Two valuable tips-thank you Gentleman! :roll: 
Now where's that cordless drill................
Philly


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## Alf (22 Sep 2004)

Yes indeedy, it's these handy day-to-day tit-bits of advice that make this forum so valuable. Appreciated, chaps.  My own modest contribution; it helps to install hacksaw blades in the frame so the teeth, so thoughtfully provided by the manufacturer, do the actual cutting. Rather than the back of the blade... Easily overlooked, I'm sure you'll agree.  

Cheers, Alf

P.S. Hey Philly, didn't I see you somewhere else earlier? :?


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## frank (22 Sep 2004)

hey philly is that the drill you cut the power lead off :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Midnight (22 Sep 2004)

if I'd a £ for every joint I've tried to solder with the iron switched off.... sheesh.....


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## Philly (22 Sep 2004)

Alf
Yes, just broadening my horizons........ :lol: 
International Gloatage!
Naughty but Nice!
cheers
Philly


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## johnelliott (22 Sep 2004)

Midnight":3m3tvjvb said:


> if I'd a £ for every joint I've tried to solder with the iron switched off.... sheesh.....


Around here *glue* is the accepted adhesive for joints!
John


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## Midnight (22 Sep 2004)

> Around here glue is the accepted adhesive for joints!



explains why sparks fly around my work... either that or it's m magnetic personality... :?


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## Aragorn (22 Sep 2004)

johnelliott":t0t2v4if said:


> Whilst using my festool saw and guide rail system to rip an 8 foot sheet, I discovered that the saw runs much better if I don't stand on the cable. It's not so much my 16 stone stopping the electricity getting through but the fact that the cable isn't sufficiently elastic to stretch a couple of metres.
> John



I had exactly the same experience today with my Skilsaw - so it's not just a snobby Festool thing.


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## Anonymous (22 Sep 2004)

another tip when pining frames together make sure you have nails in you nail gun otherwise when you go to pick the frame up you leave 3/4 of it on the bench as i found this out the other day i thought i would mention it. Also an electric sander works better pluged in and switched on :lol:


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## DaveL (22 Sep 2004)

anobium punctatum":2drbuhu6 said:


> Also an electric sander works better pluged in and switched on :lol:



I have found that my sander works better if I put a sheet of abrasive on the bottom :roll:


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## devonwoody (23 Sep 2004)

To Noely.
Next time the fridge stops working check that the switched wall electric socket is still working. I went and purchased a new fridge some years ago and when I plugged it in guess what, the new fridge would not work. 

These days quite a few retailers accept returns but at that time it was almost unheard of.


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## dedee (23 Sep 2004)

Three times I've cut this piece of wood and it is still too short.

Andy


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## ike (23 Sep 2004)

Check your stone is flat BEFORE flattening the backs of your spanky new chisels, not afterwards. :?


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## Anonymous (23 Sep 2004)

When hoovering up sawdust after a job I find it is helpful to put the vacuum hose in the "suck" opening on the cleaner. It takes rather longer if you accidentally put it into the "blow" opening, and the air turns blue as well.

Andrew


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## blurk99 (23 Sep 2004)

Hey John!
I threw away 3 perfectly good jigsaw blades last week because they just wouldn't go through 3/4 ply, whilst i was calming down and have a brief swearing fit in the kitchen LOML moved the workmate off the Jigsaw lead and then cut the sheets up for me...


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## tx2man (27 Sep 2004)

When routing with a collar, i find it's best not to try and save elecktrikery,
by setting the plunge depth so far as to stop the collet nut turning,
causing an indoor firework show.

TX

Hey Alf, was Philly on one of _those_ sites


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## Guest (3 Oct 2004)

I found a new way to save time yesterday. When using a hedgetrimmer it saves time if you don't cut through the cable.


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## Aragorn (1 Dec 2004)

When re-assembling your handplanes after sharpening, place the blade slightly proud of the cap iron, not the cap iron slightly proud of the blade.

The first method ensures a clean smooth cut. The second gives a more lumpy finish, not unlike you might expect from planing balsa wood with a spoon.

Hope that helps.


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## Chris Knight (1 Dec 2004)

When vacuuming up a metalworking lathe - with its fixed tools- that has been used for turning a bit of wood into vast piles of sawdust, remember one of the following:-

1. lathe tools are sharp, or:-
2. Wear gloves, or:-
3. use an extension on the nozzle, or:
4. Remove tools from quick change tool holder before vacuuming, or:-
5. Get someone else to do it, or:-
6. Blow the sawdust onto the floor with your airline and pick it up from there, or:-
7. Don't bother, just leave it messy as usual.


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## cambournepete (1 Dec 2004)

Aragorn":2fg42acf said:


> The first method ensures a clean smooth cut. The second gives a more lumpy finish, not unlike you might expect from planing balsa wood with a spoon.



Please don't write such funny things - makes other people in the office wonder what you're up to ...


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## Midnight (1 Dec 2004)

it's always best to empty your DC _*before *_ it gets to overflowing..... not after...


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## Shady (10 Dec 2004)

I've now proved that a Bosch half sheet belt sander doesn't work any better if you wrap the power cable into the mechanism at high speed and sand through it - although it's more exciting and cheaper than a day out at legoland... :shock: 

In similar vein, (learned being lazy because a bandsaw is 'safe'), if you want to test how strong your heart is, try feeding a square piece of stock into it freehand, tilted at 45 degrees (so as to produce an octagonal blank). Any weakness in the stock will allow your powerful bandsaw motor to snap the waste clean off with a thrilling 'bang' as it smashes into the table, and your fingers are ripped towards the blade.... Very lucky and very chastened little boy had to go and drink a small beer or two while considering that one... :roll: 

Finally, make absolutely sure you don't (lazy again!) hold a small workpiece freehand and go at it with your razor honed block/apron plane - without first checking where the holding hand is in relation to the 'projected blade path'... Yikes! sharp planes can cut straight through a finger nail, and plane the pad of your index finger before you even know it...


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## Anonymous (10 Dec 2004)

Measure once, cut twice...


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## Midnight (10 Dec 2004)

spend an hour or three backtracking through every room in the house trying to find yer safety glasses.....to find em where ya left em.... parked on top o yer heid....


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## Jaco (11 Dec 2004)

While crosscutting on a RAS, remember which side of the pencil line goes on which side of the blade.  

Remember to SECURELY CLAMP the piece of wood in the drill press. :x 

ALWAYS keep a roll of toilet paper handy next to the work bench. It helps clean up the blood, and dry the tears!


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## devonwoody (11 Dec 2004)

You lot are giving me a TINGLE


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## frank (11 Dec 2004)

did devonwoody mean you lot make me want to tinkle. :? :? :wink:


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## aldel (11 Dec 2004)

When powernailing, always remember to make sure your finger is not on the other side of the wood---just in case that bit of wood is thinner than all the other nailed pieces.

Ouch-ow -aaah-ow-ow- aaaaah aldel


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## Guest (11 Dec 2004)

It's always better to remove the chuck key before switching on the lathe.


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## Philly (11 Dec 2004)

Ouch!
Philly


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## DaveL (11 Dec 2004)

jaymar":3l8dgx4f said:


> It's always better to remove the chuck key before switching on the lathe.



Same on the drill press


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## Jaco (12 Dec 2004)

Just remeber how sharp that Stanley blade really is!!!!!


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## trevtheturner (12 Dec 2004)

So it seems to me that if you only use hand tools :shock: and keep all your bits behind the cutting edge, you've cracked it! :roll: :wink: 

Cheers,

Trev.
(Official U.K. Beer Can Quality Inspector)


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## devonwoody (12 Dec 2004)

frank":2n1g582a said:


> did devonwoody mean you lot make me want to tinkle. :? :? :wink:



No Frank I meant TINGLE, mine is obviously more sensitive than yours :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Alf (12 Dec 2004)

DaveL":1bxd52lc said:


> jaymar":1bxd52lc said:
> 
> 
> > It's always better to remove the chuck key before switching on the lathe.
> ...


<looks smug> Keyless chuck here...






If the side of your Japanese chisel was sharp enough to cut your hand _last time_ you used it, it still will be the _next time_ if you don't do anything about it in the meantime... D'oh!





Cheers, Alf


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## Jaco (12 Dec 2004)

When joining some very expensive timber, for re-sawing, with biscuits - remember to mark where the are if you are going to re-trim!    
Just demolished some very good African Rosewood - drowned my sorrows in beer.  Will look at it again next weekend.  
Needless to say the air was a darker shade of BLUE. :evil: :evil: :evil:


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## Anonymous (12 Dec 2004)

I agree with the keeping body parts out of the way posts.
Im always fitting new Ballastrades for people and one day i was standing on a Newel post with my left leg, outside this house, about to drill a hole through the bottom to accept a bit of dowel (broom handle) , when all of a sudden as i started the drill, the 1 inch auger bit jumped grabbed my sock and was about to bore into my ankle when my lightning reflexes pulled it away.After which i was wide awake and finished in no time  

23yrs as a carpenter and still learning

Cheers Steve


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## Alf (16 Dec 2004)

DaveL":rw1qp4u1 said:


> I have found that my sander works better if I put a sheet of abrasive on the bottom :roll:


Guess what?



I was onto the second board before I even realised what's more; that velcro doesn't leave too bad a finish...





Cheers, Alf


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## DaveL (16 Dec 2004)

Alf":1kfktp0r said:


> [ that velcro doesn't leave too bad a finish...



Ah I see you have the upmarket sander, I have clips to hold plain ordinary sheets on mine, the rubber backing does not do a good job on the timber.


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## Anonymous (16 Dec 2004)

Remember that you started measuring at 10cm on your tape rather than using the little metal hook!!!


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## johnelliott (16 Dec 2004)

Useful tools to have in the workshop
1) a loupe (the type of magnifying glass that you hold in your eye like a monocle, much used by jewellers, purchased from opticians for about £12), and
2) tweezers from the local chemist £1.50? 
This is unless you prefer to remove splinters by touch, or have very good eyesight (birch ply splinters can go quite deep)
John


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## Midnight (28 Dec 2004)

it ummmmm..... never hurts to check that the assembly you're gluing up actually fits through the shop door..... dooohhhhhhhh (homer)


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## DaveL (28 Dec 2004)

Midnight":3lxatczr said:


> actually fits through the shop door



One problem I don't think I will have in this shop.  If I open the big doors fully I have an opening 8' high and 12' wide. :shock:


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## Midnight (28 Dec 2004)

> I have an opening 8' high and 12' wide.


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