# What is a good finish for ash ? (Stairs)



## EdK (10 Jan 2008)

Hi - I am sort of getting closer to finishing some stairs made of ash for my little house and was wondering what a good finish is.
I have a cacophany of advice from well meaning friends but am very inexperienced in woodwork so have no idea on suitable finishes.
Any advice would be great !
Cheers
Ed
(I'll post a pic or two in the next day or two when I get a camera).


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## Anonymous (10 Jan 2008)

Hi Ed

Many moons ago I did my front room out in ash and birds eye maple and finished it all in clear pre-catalysed lacquer but my dear wife said it was to light in colour and no mater how many times I told her that mother nature would look after it a it a nice warm glow she would not be told. To keep the peace I striped it all and applied a very diluted light oak stain knowing it would not bite into the wood due to it already been finish it sat nicely on top and gave a nice glow just like mother nature would do in around a year Wife very pleased and I earned merger brownie points. But what did I do around 18 months later striped it all again and bleached out the stain and finished it natural just because mother nature did her job and due to me staining turn the ash looking pine that hideous gold / honey colour. 

So boss man keep it natural use a clear pre-catalysed lacquer at a gloss level to suite your individual taste 10% = matt 90% = full gloss. If you use oil based varnish it will go that hideous gold / honey colour, water based lacquer if you apply to much will turn a milky colour. 

You will need to use something that as got a high knock-ability factor due to the high traffic it is going to take and that where a pre-catalysed lacquer comes in to its own.

It being a cellulose based product it can be applied with a polishing mop 

http://www.morrells.co.uk/coatings/precatalyst/280.php

http://www.fiddes.co.uk/content/mops-pn ... ushes.html


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## BradNaylor (11 Jan 2008)

I would agree with most of what Alan suggests except that I would use an Acid Catylist rather than a Pre-Catylised lacquer. 

This lacquer requires the addition of a small amount of hardener (catylist) before use. It gives a much tougher finish than pre-cat.

It is available from the same suppliers.

As Alan says, do not stain the wood but let it mellow naturally.

Cheers
Dan

PS All these solvent based lacquers are extremely flammable and smelly so open all the windows and put that fag out!


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## EdK (15 Jan 2008)

Haven't got a camera yet (kitchen screed took priority) -thanks for the replies - what about oiling it ? Or is that a bad idea ?

A mate is suggesting a runner and brass rods and varnish underneath - am thinking oil or wax myself but will look into this laquer stuff.

Cheers
Ed


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## Anonymous (15 Jan 2008)

Hi Ed



Bespoke":1avrn0wj said:


> You will need to use something that as got a high knock-ability factor due to the high traffic it is going to take and that where a pre-catalysed lacquer comes in to its own.



The stairs is a high traffic area is it not ? and therefore needs something that will stand up for is self and take no prisoners when it comes to protecting its charges and Danish oil by its self will not do that it needs reinforcement and that where a pre-catalysed or Acid Catalyst lacquer comes in to there own. Pre-catalysed lacquer is the easiest of the cellulose finishes to apply. And as I say oil based varnish it will go that hideous gold / honey colour, water based lacquer if you apply to much will turn a milky colour.

You have been given the advice of two professionals who believe that finishing a project to the highest standard is just part of the project and a project can be made or lost by the finish.

My self and Dan are in the process of producing a “How to Guide” and will attempt to get this completed by the week end or early next week.

There’s no short, no magic formula to getting a first class finish.

A carpet runner and polished brass rods will look like a job in the town, but varnish in my world is a big no, no.


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## EdK (16 Jan 2008)

Thanks Alan and Dan - much appreciated advice. I will certainly listen to what you have suggested and go that route. Thanks for educating ! That's why I'm here - to learn and then hopefully be useful (many years I would imagine  )
Cheers for your help
Ed


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## Anonymous (18 Jan 2008)

Hi 

I have been wondering if you would like a sample of Ash finished with pre-catalyst in a 20% gloss if you do PM me with your address and I will only be happy too


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## Anonymous (18 Jan 2008)

I like Patina on Ash - don't tend to use it on other woods, but it really brings ash 'alive'


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## EdK (20 Jan 2008)

Thanks Alan - have PM'd you. Tony - what is Patina ? I know what the metal type patina is but have not come across this as a finish - any pointers ?! 
Cheers
Ed


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## wizer (20 Jan 2008)

EdK":1jcqyjnp said:


> what is Patina ? I know what the metal type patina is but have not come across this as a finish - any pointers ?!
> Cheers
> Ed



http://www.marinemegastore.com/product. ... PXXZJDMVSM


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## EdK (5 Feb 2008)

Right - was after some advice on actually slapping something on the stairs.

Was going to go for either pre-cat or acid cat lacquer from Morrells but wasn't sure exactly what I need.

I thought the following:

5 litres of Morrells 280 pre-cat (20% - 9203/280) 
or 
5 litres of Morrells 440 acid cat (20 % - 5203/440)

A 3" paint brush
A large plastic pot

Yes I know it may be obvious but I am a total beginner and don't want to stuff this up !

I've mixed up West System slow cure many a time so reckon I'll be ok with mixing up the acid cat.

Wasn't sure which acid cat one to go for ... fast dry ? odourless ? (I also have problems choosing in restaurants)

Anyway, I'm going to have a look in the local builders for this product unless it is only available online ?

Normally get things online from APTC / CHT etc not used to buying liquids etc...

Cheers
Ed


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## Sgian Dubh (7 Feb 2008)

EdK":2fllsdp4 said:


> I thought the following:
> 
> 5 litres of Morrells 280 pre-cat (20% - 9203/280)
> or
> ...



Unfortunately Ed you'll need some different kit to the bucket and brush you mention to apply those finishes. Those are spray finishes (usually) applied with a spray gun in a spray booth.

You might be better to look at either oil based or water based varnishes as both these go on with one of the following: a brush, a roller or a paint pad. You might also consider shellac, but there are finishes out there specifically formulated for high traffic floor or stair areas. They're even available at places like Homebase and B&Q. Slainte.


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## EdK (7 Feb 2008)

DAmn ! Are you sure you can't thin them down a little and then apply with a brush ?

I am after some thing hardwearing and brushable....


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## Sgian Dubh (7 Feb 2008)

EdK":mz3b6g21 said:


> DAmn ! Are you sure you can't thin them down a little and then apply with a brush ?
> 
> I am after some thing hardwearing and brushable....



Oh, you can thin it and put it on with a brush Ed. It looks like sh*t. And it cracks because you've got it on too thick. Trust me. Pre cat and post-cat (aka acid cat) are spray finishes generally best applied in a spray booth with a spray gun.

Hard wearing and brushable at the DIY end of the market, which is what I'm assuming you're at, means a trip to B&Q, Homebase, et al for a water based or oil based floor finish. Slainte.


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## Chris Knight (8 Feb 2008)

A good water based finish will do just fine on ash. I recommend "Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Varnish". You can apply it with almost anything - I prefer a foam brush - denib after each coat and apply abut three coats. 

It preserves the colour of pale woods well, is easy to keep clean with a damp cloth and takes loads of abuse.


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## EdK (15 Feb 2008)

Thanks for the information - I guess it is a varnish then (thought about buying some spray kit but decided that best not  )

The obvious choices are the Ronseal Diamond one (here) or what my mate used which is the Dulux Diamond Glaze (here )

I think I'll need 5 litres ?

They both come in Gloss or Satin - was after a Matt I think but will go for the Satin.

I'll go and get some tomorrow and a foam brush thing - any advice on foam brushes ? Width ? Make ? Ones to avoid ? All new territory for me !

THink the Ronseal one is better priced (5 litres for about £50 and the Dulux is about £80 for 5litres - online that is... might be more locally).

Much difference between the Dulux and the Ronseal ?

Thanks for any help - Ed


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## EdK (20 Feb 2008)

Went for the Ronseal and it looks good so far... 5 litres will last a few stair cases I think ! See how much I have left over at the end...

I have door treads to do for the whole house too so thought 5 litres.
Ed


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## Sgian Dubh (21 Feb 2008)

EdK":tecgt8lw said:


> Went for the Ronseal and it looks good so far... Ed



It sounds like you're going in the right direction now. I hope it works out and you get both the appearance and durability you want. Slainte.


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