# Tone's Garage Projects - WIP



## chingerspy (24 Feb 2010)

Hi all,

Well it's about time I started sharing and the upcoming garage project is as good a place as any.

Basically we have a load of old wood in the garage which I've gathered up and hope to use in these garage projects. There are bits of old beds, furniture, contiboard, etc...

I've been thinking hard how to go about making the bits. I think I'm settled on using pocket hole joints after deliberating about traditional M/T or biscuits or dados. After watching Kreg stuff on Youtube I'm going to pick up a Kreg 3 or 4 from Axi High Wycome on Friday. I like faceframes and I think I will be able to make a good job of the furniture with the Kreg. Does anyone else use them here? I don't read a lot about them on this forum. So pine faceframes and plywood sides. Plan is to make two cabinets that the worktop will go on. Then some shelving above to take some more storage that's got to stay in the garage for the time being. Should end up with a 2'x5' worksurface with storage under and over it.

Anyway... here goes!

First I found all the suitable framing bits from the old pine. There was a lot of 45x20mm lengths so I chopped all the dodgy ends off and came up with some nice useable bits for free  The Evolution Rage3 for £100 is earning it's money!







Here's the small pile I ended up with looks like I might have to buy some planks if I can't find any more hiding in the woodbin. I made a note of all the sizes in pencil on each length after chopping them. I've now written it all down on a pad and will hopefully be able to create some sort of cutting list to make my frames or at least some of them:






I'm also getting into the habit of cleaning up shop afterwards, here's the current shop vac:






And I'm also reclaiming sawdust from the reclaimed timber! It's going to come in handy for all the filling I will probably end up doing knowing me  This old Jelly Belly jar is filling up quickly:






Well this is the start of the WIP. I have Friday through Monday off work so hopefully will get the jig and get used to it quickly to progress on the build.


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## chingerspy (25 Feb 2010)

Thinking it through...

I've just spent an hour in the garage looking at what I've got in terms of framing material. Was looking like I was short a few pieces until I realised I'd have to make the under cabinet shorter due to my bait freezer! Not sure how I missed a big white appliance when I measured up last night 

Anyway, this means my base unit will ideally be L1000mm x H900mm x D60mm. I may have to adjust the depth down slightly as I want to get as much out of 4'x8' plywood sheets as possible. This should give me a decent sized unit with two drawers at the top and two cupboards at the bottom. I'll use the two 57x18mm wide rails top and bottom and the rest of the frame will be 47x18mm wide rails/styles. The box behind that will be 18mm ply with 3 or 6mm ply back.

The workbench top will be a torsion box. Constructed using some 45x45mm lengths I have left over from putting the joists across the garage to create storage above the garage door. This is tanalised c16 and I have 4 2.4m lengths of it. Once joined together (pocket screws again) and wrapped in ply it should serve well as a benchtop. This will measure longer than the cabinet as I am aiming to get 1500mm x 600m for the worktop. This means a good 500mm overhang over the freezer and a 50-80mm overhang around the sides and front. I will probably end up putting support on the far end with a legs and rails to keep it from shearing. I have some 45x45mm lengths that could be used there making it pretty sturdy.

If I could use sketchup here I would. May work on that during quiet time at work shhh 

The drawers will be full extension and probably 12mm ply pocket screwed together. I may see if I have any decent bits of 120mm wide pine. I've seen some in the woodpile but I think they've already suffered some cuts. There might be a couple of useable pieces though. Otherwise I'm not worried about using straight ply for the fronts.

I might even stain the whole thing. I like the Ronseal Diamond hard range, even if it is a little pricey. It gives a really nice colour and a very durable finish. Don't worry I'm not for the life of me believing that it will survive a slipped chisel 

Anyway, I best be off to get ready for work...


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## chingerspy (25 Feb 2010)

I've had a little play with Sketchup at lunchtime and came up with this which shows what I'm looking to accomplish:






The gap to the right will be home to my bait freezer. Unsure yet whether to fill inbetween the rail and styles on the end piece. No matter what I tried Sketchup filled it in anyway  I've been thinking about the overhangs and may have to change them to suit our old Eclipse vice. It's not very big but will do. I may need to adjust cabinet dimesions again though to allow for the vice screws. I can have a tinker with that tonight when I get home.

At this rate I might have to think of a better storage solution for the 4 bikes (3pushbikes and a Monkey Bike) which live at the far end of the cabinet. Otherwise I'm just constantly losing dimensions for under bench storage.


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## Shultzy (25 Feb 2010)

Hi Tone, great to see you are using up your old wood. I actively seek it out, even occasionally "skip-diving".

The sketchup issue is because the end panel is "flat". If you highlight the infill and press "delete" it will disappear. Even if you are making a sketch, get used to making each item (equal to a piece of wood in the real world) into a component. Makes life easier and you can hide components so you can work on other areas ie. the inside of the cabinet, without obstruction.


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## chingerspy (25 Feb 2010)

Thanks Shultzy, I'm gonna try to use up as much of this pile as possible  maybe not much more on this project. I have some good planks though that I've not started to look at yet.

Project update:
I'm currently thinking about chaning everything. I'm a little fed up with losing storage space just because I need a bench in there. This is unfortunately a dual purpose garage and not just my workshop. I don't necessarily need a proper bench but at least a good assembly table with the small woodworkers vice would suffice.

I'm thinking about putting this bench on the other side of the garage. There is already a storage unit along that wall and who knows whats in it! But I think I would be happier being able to convert this into a long stretch of cabinets and drawers with a good sized and good height benchtop running the length of this wall.

This is an attempt at showing my garage in it's current-ish physical state:






As you can see moving the bench area to the opposite wall will give me probably 3 feet extra length. Better for assembly, chop saw, and preparation. Cabinet/drawer space underneath still and a good overhang for clamping on 3 sides. Shelving above but this could then become more of a proper tool cupboard. The original bench location would become a pure storage system. So I am essentially dividing the garage into general storage and workshop without (hopefully) mixing the two.


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## Shultzy (25 Feb 2010)

That looks good Tone. Don't forget if you need space when you are not woodworking you could hinge the worktop and fold it away until needed. I had one in my single garage which allowed me to store the car away but hinged up made a good assembly table.


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## chingerspy (25 Feb 2010)

I had considered a folddown bench but I think I can get more out of the space by putting the bench ontop of cabinets. I don't need to get a car in here fortunately 

I've been playing again and if it all goes to plan I should be able to get a 3'x8' or near to that benchtop to work on at bench height (for me this is around 1m high). There will be cupboards underneath at say 500mm depth with extension drawers and trays.


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## chingerspy (13 Mar 2010)

Well after thinking about it and rethinking and then just saying sod it, take advantage of 20% at B&Q and building here is what I came up with so far 






I'm going for two cabinets, each with a 4' x 2' top. The carcass is 18mm ply with a whitewood faceframe. The top is 18mm ply with 3mm hardboard pinned to it. It overhangs for clamping and this has already come in really handy. Everything is pocket hole screwed together and only the faceframe is glued up.

I've got most of the second cabinet made up now (you can just see it to the left). I've just got to put the top on it. I've got the frame clamped at the moment though as the crappy whitewood decided to split when I screwed it  ah well I'll leave it to glue up overnight as I've done enough for today.

I'm toying with just adding doors to the front or putting a couple of drawers at the top with cupboard space underneath.

The backs are open at the mo and I'll probably just add a brace to the back for rigidity for now. I'd like to cover it with more ply when I'm a little more flush though. This will add weight and make it very rigid.

I'll also add adjustable feet when I get some to raise it off the deck a little and help with levelling.

On top of it are most of the power tools I used to build it  the most important isn't there though, the Kreg jig!

I'll try and get some sketchup's done in a mo.


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## chingerspy (13 Mar 2010)

Sketchups of what I'm after:

I might wait and have a go at panelled doors next month for this. This would mean investing in a router bit kit and was the main reason for buying Wizer's Ryobi 1/2" off him (thanks again for the arrangement man). Once I've got the kit I can produce them for lots of things 

Current:





Aim:


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## wizer (13 Mar 2010)

Tone I might have a set of raised panel router bits if your interested? Brand new, never used, still sealed.


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## chingerspy (13 Mar 2010)

What set and how much Tom? take to PM? 

I've just seen the price of the CMT set ouch!!


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## chingerspy (15 Mar 2010)

Spent more time in the garage on Sunday. Fighting a weird bug that I've picked up I soldiered on...

Sorry if the pics are slow to load or whatever, I've put them on Imageshack as I can't get to my own ftp at the mo.

Finished off the second carcass:





Had a good old cleanup! Here is the shopvac upgrade! A crappy little upright from my sister, it clogs all the time and has a tiny hose but it's a step up from the dustpan and brush 





Then after dinner I decided to attempt a router table to save some money. Yes Tom I really would like that door making set  I had already bought the Kreg insert plate but had screwed up the first attempt at installing it  Anyway after a little battle with the router and messing things up again I found a way to win the war... Onward!

I had a nightmare trying to get the rebate just deep enough to make the insert flush, also lacking a rebating bit I used a straight cutter and the fit was loose to say the least so I devised a cunning plan...

This is the top and you might be able to see the original hole and rebate. I covered my mistakes with a piece of left over 3mm hardboard from the counter tops. I spent time to get the hole in the h/b just right (ok so it was still a little off but much better!) I pinned this to the ply around the outside edge and glued just around the edges of the hole to hold it rather than use pins there, hence the clamps in the pic.






Now of course the insert would be too low but I thought it would be easier to raise it than keep whittling away at the ply. So a little more ingenuity was called for and I came up with a levelling system. I thought about stopping and just buying the easy levelling system that Kreg make. Well, I don't really have £12 to spend on a few grub screws and plastic triangles, so... I used two 1/4" self tapping screws at each corner, one either side of the radius. I can now adjust the plate to become flush with the top. Bargain! I might add a screw to the centrepoint of each side too if I feel the need but it's pretty sturdy with no wobble at all right now.

So with the top finished to where I was happy I knocked up a stand for it. I already had a face frame made up for another cabinet so used that, just to tie all the cabinet fronts together. Behind that I used some left over 2"x2" tanalised beams from the above door storage area to construct the legs and stretchers. I held it all together with pocket screws again (I love my Kreg) I decided on just a leg/stretcher arrangment mainly because I had the lengths of 2x2 sitting there getting in the way. Also if it's good enough for Colin at the YOKB, it's good enough for me  I don't have any dust extraction at the moment so that wasn't a concern either. I see this table as an ever evolving project right now. 

Here's a construction shot about half way through:






After a bit of rearragement of rubbish and furniture I managed to sit the router table at the left end of the other units. Once I use a little more scrap hardboard to cover the ply the top should flush up with the other cabs. This will also as a bonus give me a roughly 10' x 2' surface area to work on.






And I'm spent! Well actually I'm at work taking a break 

Edit:

I put up an in focus pic of the table above. The pic shows my impromptu fence too as I really wanted to put some wood through it 

It works, my first OGee!


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## chingerspy (23 Mar 2010)

Oooo something big just arrived 





Not that much could damage it, I appreciated all the packing that kept it safe Norman  There was a load of that air pocket stuff in the box too!





Now that's what I call a vice!





I didn't think it would be so long 





Happy Tone  Let the cleansing commence!





I've already started taking the Dremmel to it but it wasn't charged so that didn't last long. It has already done a good job with the handle though so good things to come.

Does anyone have any advice on how to clean it up. I think Schultzy performed heavy maintenance on his one? I want to avoid taking it apart in case I don't get it back together again. I guess just go at it with Dremmel, steel wool, then give it a paint job. Does Hammerite do a fairly accurate "Record" blue?


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## wizer (23 Mar 2010)

when I got mine I had big plans to strip it down, clean it up and paint it. In the end I couldn't be pineappled with that and surprisingly it still works perfectly.


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## chingerspy (23 Mar 2010)

Phew thanks for that. I was kinda hoping that will be the general consensus  I REALLY don't want to have to do it.

I am content on just cleaning it up a bit really. It works great as is but has a fair amount of rust on it that I will get cleaned up as best I can and then give it a good oiling. Oh and paint just to prevent rust again.


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## mr grimsdale (23 Mar 2010)

Just posted up my own garage project over there
Hope that helps!


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## chingerspy (23 Mar 2010)

lol, thanks for that, and nice birthday present 

That didn't help much with this unfortunately. However, this one about fixing vices which you contributed to will I am sure! Now is that coach screws or coach bolts I should use?


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## wizer (23 Mar 2010)

chingerspy":1ojd330r said:


> Phew thanks for that. I was kinda hoping that will be the general consensus  I REALLY don't want to have to do it.
> 
> I am content on just cleaning it up a bit really. It works great as is but has a fair amount of rust on it that I will get cleaned up as best I can and then give it a good oiling. Oh and paint just to prevent rust again.



I guess if you suffer from rust in your workshop then it's worth taking the time to clean it all off and protecting it. I'm lucky so far in that I've never had a problem with it.


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## chingerspy (24 Mar 2010)

I'm not sure I suffer from rust in the shop. I am cleaning it up mainly because I can't handle it without getting orange hands at the moment 

Anyway, that's mostly changed tonight after a session on the power drill with a couple of different wire brushes attached:

*Yesterday:*





*Today:*





Quite an improvement I think after a couple of hours. I'm tempted to just get the surface rust off as much as I can now just to knock it back.


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## chingerspy (4 Apr 2010)

Bench Time!

OK so after getting the Record vice it became immediately apparent that I would need a more substantial bench.

I had to wait till this month before I could buy some 2x4's and have a crack at something.

Well April is here and I have a few extra days booked off work either side of Easter so thought it about time to crack on.

After endlessly looking at pictures and reading about builds I decided that a workbench should a) be able to help you do woodworking, b) be built from readily avaliable material that you can afford, c) be heavy d) be a representation of the builders ability.

Therefore I've decided on the following for my bench:

A torsion box top made from 2x 18mm ply and 2x4's kiln dried timbers this will be near enough 90mm (just under 4") thick. I already had the ply and 2x4's are cheap as chips, well 3 helpings of chips 
*
This is the underneath of the as yet unassembeled torsion box. I have marked in pencil where all the bits are going. The piece of ply on the right is the spacer for the Record 52E. I've already cut the holes for the bolts.*





2x4's doubled up to make 4x4's for the legs standing at around about 750mm.

*Here's some a pics of the glueup. I used a trowel to spread it on, the drips have now been ragged off *:
















2x4's for the feet cut to about 650mm to stand just proud of the top. The legs will be screwed into the feet from underneath. I'm thinking 4x 60mm screws each leg should be ample pre-drilled holes of course.There will also be pads (toes?) front and rear on the bottom of the foot to help it sit on the garage floor.
*
Picture of the little stock pile including some leg parts, rails, stretchers and feet:*






Other than that tomorrow I will find out if the legs are glued together properly, I only had 3 clamps for each leg to hand. I'll then have to square up the ends with the SCMS and plane the sides flush. That could be a job and a half as I still only have my Stanley Sweetheart No.4 smoother to do that with. I have just won a Record 5 1/2 off the 'bay though so cannot wait to play with that 

All being well there should be a few assembly pics and a finished bench either tomorrow or Tuesday 

*Oh yea and this scared the rubbish out of me when I looked up one time!*


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## chingerspy (4 Apr 2010)

I've just done a quick sketch of it. This is what it should look like when finished. L4'xD2'xH3'






I've just got to work a way to attach the rails and stretchers. I was practising my M/T joints earlier but I don't think they are up to scratch just yet! I've seen the carriage bolt through with an access hole for the nut lots of times. Or even a lag bolt? Maybe this is something I can use. Only one bolt either end usually seems to be used?


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## OPJ (5 Apr 2010)

Yes, you only need one bolt in the end of each rail. Although, adding even a short stub-tenon (and mortise) makes location much easier and would increase the strength of the joint (the bolt will hold it together). If your SCMS allows you to do trenching cuts, you could cut the shoulders and cheeks on that. Then, you've just got to cut the mortises. :wink:


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## chingerspy (5 Apr 2010)

Cheers Olly, My scms doesn't do trenching cuts as far as I am aware, its the £100 Evolution one in the second picture? I had a practise yesterday at M/T's and didn't do too badly, however I just don't think they are up to scratch yet 

The glue up job on the legs went pretty well for my first time and only 3 clamps per legs.

At this point I still needed to clean up the ends by shaving them on the scms:





This morning was spent mostly planing wood; 4 legs, 2 rails, 2 stretchers and 2 feet:





I had some pretty big steps on the sides due to different width timbers when I glued them up. I found planing at an angle somewhere around 45 degrees helped even things up much quicker:





I was pretty happy with the results. This is the biggest planing job i've done till now. I loved the way the timber became cleaner and cleaner. I was giving a good 80-100 grit hand sanding after planing each side.





Finished  This is about half of the shavings taken. I filled up my little bin with the other half!





I'll pop back down in a mo and give them all another hand sanding to 150grit and then I can think more about assembly.


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## chingerspy (5 Apr 2010)

OK after thinking a little about joints, I'm still going for mechanical fixings. I'll probably redo them as woodworking joints when I have more experience! Let me know if I am going wrong here please...

Unless told otherwise I'll need the following from screwfix tomorrow:

Some long screws for the legs 6x100mm (4 each leg) to attach to the feet. This should give me about 60mm into the leg. I only have 60mm ones right now and it works but is too wobbly as only about 15mm goes into the leg. I'm going for their Goldscrew line.

Coach screws to attach the rails and stretchers to the legs. M10x160mm should do the trick. 100mm through the leg putting 60mm through the rails done up with an M10 washer.

Coach bolts to attach the Record 52E. M10x130 should do it. 90mm of top then about 12mm of vice so a little left over to do the bolt up on, with washer too of course.

I'll get the big bags from Screwfix as I am bound to need them in later projects. Wickes wants something like half the price for about a tenth of the quantity!


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## chingerspy (6 Apr 2010)

Hoorah! It's done  

Today was mainly assembly. First I took a trip to Screwfix to pick up the hardware mentioned in the above post. I also grabbed a set of their Hilki serrated forstner bits and a sanding block.

Once I got things organised I started playing with the forstner bits, my first time using them and in a power drill of all things... I lived to tell the tale 





I had to drill through both sides of the legs as the bits only reached half way. 2 holes drilled unguided through each leg later and I was onto finishing off the feet.





This involved drilling pilot holes for the huge 6x100mm screws to hold the legs on from the bottom. 5mm pilot hole right through then I counterbored with a 13mm forstner bit. 4 pilot holes in the end of each leg too.

On the ends of each foot I put a toe plate just to stop it marring on the concrete floor and hopefully help with stability. I didn't get a pic of them attached but here's me cutting them out of some 3mm ply with my Hibiki:





I attached them with 4 small veneer pins each and punched the pins below the surface.

With the toes attached to the feet and the feet attached to the legs it was rails and stretchers time! This meant bringing out the 160mm coach screws which also meant finding a 17mm socket or spanner! Luckily I found one of each and a long socket too so game on 





Next up was the stretchers. It started looking like a bench base which surprised me a bit as I thought I might be making a hash of it all 





Here's a pic of the finished base, the screws done up nice and tight but not FT  You can see the toes in this pic so I did manage to get a pic of them afterall.





Now the fairly scarey part. I had to get the top lined up with the legs. I made a torsion box the other day so that I had something decent to work . I've done all the work on this which has sat on top of the workmate. The torsion box gave me a cheap, strong and pretty much warpless solution to having a thick top (90mm). This meant I could leave it in layers and then assemble it properly once the bench was built from the bottom up.

Here is a pic of the bottom layer that also served as dinner table, notepad, calculator and even a temporary benchtop while I made the bench 





The bottom was attached to the legs by lining it up with them and then drilling 4.5mm pilot holes into which I screwed it all together with some 5x60mm screws. I didn't need the 100mm jobbys I used earlier as it was only going through 18mm ply this time. Last job on this part was to write a secret message which will be forever sealed inside the torsion box 8)

Next was to attach the middle and top layers of the torsion box. I joined them together first with some plasterboard screws. They are nice to use in softwood but I was a bit scared of ripping the heads off of them at times so I restrained my trigger finger and the drill's clutch quite a lot! Here's a pic:





The torsion box is simply 2 layers of ply with a framwork of 2x4's. i fixed the framework together for the most part with pocket screws. The additional bits in the middle and by the vice mounting point were offcuts so I used them where I expect to put dog holes later. These were held in with glue and plasterboard screws. I had to plane quite a lot to get the 2x4's flush otherwise it wouldn't be a good fit onto the bottom layer. As I will be putting holes through the top for bench dogs, etc.. I made sure to mark out where my screws were and where it was ok to drill later. Hopefully I got it all right when that time comes!

Now I started getting excited! I put the torsion box together using the bolts for the vice (fitted the vice while I was at it) I think I've gotten used to lifting that thing as I managed to manhandle it onto the bench without any aids  Either that or all the planing over the past couple of days has turned me into Popeye  After fitting the vice I managed to get some plasterboard screws in from underneath to bring it all together.

FINISHED!





       

I stopped for some dinner, then went back to the garage. Here's a pic of it an hour later, lots of tools and a bench hook 





Well not quite finished but near as dammit for now  I want to get some wood to edge the front and line the vice jaws properly. I'll get some softwood for now with a view to getting oak or something harder in the future.

I've now started making jigs and things for it (bench hook shown in picture above). The need for a couple of these useful things became immediately apparent! Here's a bench hook I knocked up out of some pine framing bits. 3 bits glued together to make a wider board, then one of them ripped in half to make the stops. 3 screws and glue for each stop at right angles to the board. I've since replaced the screws with dowels - more tool friendly!





I'll make another similar one but with the bottom stop running down the middle, along the length. This can then be held in the vice so that I can start planing small bits until I can get a Veritas wonder dog and a couple of Axi bench dogs.

I'm really happy with it all. I am quite impressed that the only power tools I used were my trusty Makita drill and the Evolution scms. I could probably have gotten away without the scms to be honest but I wanted to be sure that those 100x100mm legs were as square as possible and didn't trust myself to cut them right. It felt a little bit like cheating to use the coach screws but I've seen better woodworkers than I use them on benches. I would love to do another base using mortice and tenons in the future though once I've practised them more (hand cut of course!)

I'm wondering if it is worth finishing it with something? what would be best? I have some Ronseal diamond hard pine stain/varnish, would that be any good? The garage doesn't suffer much from humidity or damp/dryness. I was thinking about wax on the base?


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## OPJ (6 Apr 2010)

Looks good and it will be interesting to see how you get on. Didn't take you long to cover the top in tools either, did it! :wink:

Whether or not you finish the frame is entirely up to you... I don't think it 'needs' it. For what it's worth, wax would be more difficult to apply than a varnish or oil (ie. more elbow grease!). Some would say to finish the top for protection (wiping away glue spills and oil stains, etc.) while others would advise it to leave it as it is (finishing can make the surface too slick).


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## chingerspy (7 Apr 2010)

Thanks Olly,

I'll probably just leave it then. The very top 3mm is just hardboard so is designed to be replaceable, held on only by some veneer pins around the edges.

I'm gonna try to get to B&Q on the way home from work to pick up some edging material so that I can cover the front and vice jaws properly. A length of 100x25mm softwood should do the trick for now.

I'm also thinking about making a removable front apron with plenty of dog holes as an optional extra. Also/or a deadman which I can use to help hold longer pieces of stock for planing.


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## chingerspy (8 Apr 2010)

It seems this thread with all the pictures was killing my allowed bandwidth on my cheapo webspace at HostHere (1Gig/month). I've spent the last few creating a photobucket account with unlimited bandwidth.

I am LOVING my bench  I was working at it from about seven o'clock to half eleven last night without realising! I've finished the little bench hook and another one that can be held in the vice for planing small pieces. I'm looking forward to getting some bench dogs and a wonder dog when I can scrape together some cash. I also added some softwood to the vice jaws. I'll try to tie this in flush by adding some edging to the front of the worktop. Then I can add some dog holes for side clamps and dogs. I might make a sliding bench stop for the side of the bench tonight. I saw one posted on here not long ago but can't for the life of me find it now. Looked simple to make but very effective and certainly cheaper than the shop bought (Veritas?) one.

I'm also in the market for some anti fatigue matting as the concrete floor is killing my feet and legs, hence the trusty old high stool with the 70's orange seat I'm using. I tried different trainers and boots but still aching more than normal. Any recommended links? I'll have a google for some in the meantime though.


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## chingerspy (8 Apr 2010)

Tonight was spent mostly playing with my new ebay toys and then making an end stop with them 

*Ebay specials*
I had a bit of a bargain hunt for old tools on Ebay over Easter. Here's the rust I ended up with.
Old French made hand drill




Record 5 1/2 Jack plane







Stanley 60 1/2 block plane







Stanley brace




Some old bits from a school clear out apparently.




They still work, I'll have to pick up a bit sharpening file soon though to give them a fresh edge.





*The adjustable end stop WIP*
First I sqaured up a piece of scrap softwood. Then marked out for a mortice down the middle of it. I used methods learnt in the help with a mortice thread currently being discussed. I didn't refer to it directly but think the methods I used match up  First I made a trench to establish the sides by pressing the chisel to make a series of incisions out from the middle to the ends. Flat of the blade facing the ends of the mortice




Then after a couple of these trenching cuts the mortice had good walls. I then pared bevel down and up (whatever worked best) from the middle to the ends. This creates a sort of hump inside the mortice which in turn can be easily pared away.




I got to about half way through and then continued the same method from the other side. When you get far enough the waste just falls away leaving a pretty good mortice behind 




I then chiseled a rebate into the mortice which could have gone better. I should have remembered advice given and not tried paring with the grain. It's inevitable that you will get caught in the grain and wheee the chisel takes out a great chunk with zero effort.




Anyway, once I had corrected this as best I could I got on with drilling the holes for the screws. I used my "new" French handdrill for this 




Then countersunk the holes with my "new" brace and bits.




That was my first time using a brace. Blimey they work fast! you can hear the wood cracking. Not a bad job for some ex-school ebay bits either  They need a bit of a sharpen and clean up though.




After that, I just needed to put a 6mm hole in another piece of scrap and screw it to the side of the bench.








It works pretty well


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## WoodAddict (8 Apr 2010)

Hi Tone,

Can I ask what size the top of your workbench is please. (as in the working area on top). I've been planning mine. I was going to aim for 1220 wide to make the best use of an 8x4 sheet, but I was worried if that might be a bit small. When I look around at others, they look smaller than I was imagining.

Thanks in advance.


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## chingerspy (9 Apr 2010)

The top is approx 4 feet long by 2 feet wide. It stands approx 3 feet high, I am 5'11" tall and it feels good, even with my rubbish back.

This fits into the space I had avaliable. I had a sheet cut up at B&Q on their 20% off mad sale the other week. I had a 2'x4' cut at the end and then ripped down the middle into 6'x2'. Mainly because this meant I could get it in the car 

The 2'x2' offcuts make very handy bases for jigs and things too!


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## WoodAddict (9 Apr 2010)

Thanks for that, I'll venture down into the production area at work and measure some benches to give me a better idea of size. 4ft looks small just by looking at a tape measure but maybe it'll look better in real form.


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## chingerspy (9 Apr 2010)

I think it depends on where you are putting it mate. If I put a 6-8 foot bench in my garage I wouldn't have anywhere to put anything else  If space isn't an issue then do an 8x4 bench that you can walk/work around. I've left a clamping overhang at the back of my bench just in case but I doubt it will ever be somewhere that I can use it.

Ideally I would have a 6 foot by 3 foot bench I think. That way I could still reach over it but have a long surface for boards. My other tables are all around 3 feet high so I can rest longer stuff on them either side of the bench if necessary.


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## adzeman (9 Apr 2010)

Hi Tone,
Just spent time reading through your thread and what is clear you are enjoying this creating game.

I do like your bench and it should give you satisfaction and produce some good work in the future.

You mention B & Q a few times have you not got a timber yard locally? I find the superstores a bit pricy and if you buy planed comes undersized. Check it out on a bit of 4" x 2" If you are a regular user they are not averse to giving a discount. I also find superstore timber brittle and on the dry side. Any way you pays your money and take your choice.


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## chingerspy (9 Apr 2010)

Hi and thanks for taking the time to read what I've been upto 

I do have builders yards nearby. Although I am struggling to find a local hardwood supplier. I am fairly lucky in that the garage I'm using was full of mostly useable softwood that had been liberated from skips 

I would be interested in any good local timber suppliers soon. Particularly now that I feel ready to get some hardwood. The box stores were used just because they are there really. Can softwood really that much cheaper from builders merchants then? I'd be interested in 2x4s and floorboards to do some more garage projecs with for sure.


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## adzeman (9 Apr 2010)

Yes they are and they are interested in you as a person. Most of them are very knowledgable. If they dont have the hardwood in stock they will know were to get it. We are fortunate in Sussex for timber suppliers as the old ports traditionaly imported timber. The area also produces timber.There is a good hardwood supplier in Tonbridge I know its Kent but its not that far. When its the Bently wood fair you should bring your wife and family down for a good day out one of the many timber related subjects is the felling and saw milling of timber. and if you can get it in your car take it home for a price.

Like you I do like a bit of skip diving and a lot of builders when finishing a job skip good timber rather than take it back to the yard (that is if they have one)


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## chingerspy (10 Apr 2010)

Fixed the softwood front skirt to the bench top today. When I get the dogs I'll start turning this and the bench top into swiss cheese with dog holes 
First I had to glue up a couple of boards to get a thick enough piece to come in line with the vice jaw.




After some planing and a little sanding to 150grit I fitted it on. It is held to the top via three 8mm dowels and no glue. If there are any issues I'll probably add a couple more dowels. No glue added as it is designed to be replacbale once it gets heavily dinged up. Also the offcut provided me with a piece of stripwood that covers the top of the rear jaw tieing it all together and helping to protect my tools from the vice


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