# Cutting Joinery Bench Legs To Length On Table saw



## pollys13 (16 May 2020)

Bought the Redwood from Travis Perkins, used a handsaw to rough cut to length. I was wondering, the best way to cut to the required length, with a nice clean cut. I saw a YouTube guy using a chop saw to cut his boards. First he did a scoring cut on top, then did repeated cuts. I asked why he did repeated cuts, said easier on the saw, lessen heat build up and possibility of the blade deflecting.
Should I use the same approach, or just plough on through, half through the timber, turn it and cut through again?
Table Saw is 3Kw and is fitted with an Axcaliber 50T 254mm x 2.6 kerf combination blade. 
Thanks.


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## Trevanion (16 May 2020)

You should be able to cut it all in one single pass with that saw no problem.

The only reason I would ever sort of slide the blade back and forth as I cut through with the mitre saw is only if it's particularly thick and wide hardwood like Sapele and I don't want to have too much blade in contact for the reasons you mentioned.


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## David Martin (17 May 2020)

My chop-saw is broken and alas I have no table-saw, so today I've just cut the legs for my new bench by hand. Knife wall all round and progressive diagonal cuts round 3 faces to complete each one. They've come out nicely flush and perfectly square to the sides - which is somewhat unusual for my hand-sawing


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## Sideways (17 May 2020)

Put it on the saw 1/4" shy of the final cut line, cut it in one pass or flipped if it's too big for that.
If the finish isn't good enough, you need to do something else...

A marking knife cut all round can help reduce splintering on the back edge as well as giving you an exact point to line up with the edge of the teeth.


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## pollys13 (17 May 2020)

Trevanion":3894b8l4 said:


> You should be able to cut it all in one single pass with that saw no problem.
> 
> The only reason I would ever sort of slide the blade back and forth as I cut through with the mitre saw is only if it's particularly thick and wide hardwood like Sapele and I don't want to have too much blade in contact for the reasons you mentioned.



The Redwood is 92mm and flat ( I picked the best one off the stack ) square the saw has a maximum cutting depth of 100mm. I have quite a few extra inches on leg, so won't try to cut to the length I want, in case bodge it up. Will have a couple of goes first to see if I encounter any problems.
Cheers.


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## pollys13 (17 May 2020)

Sideways":2otjzeki said:


> Put it on the saw 1/4" shy of the final cut line, cut it in one pass or flipped if it's too big for that.
> If the finish isn't good enough, you need to do something else...
> 
> A marking knife cut all round can help reduce splintering on the back edge as well as giving you an exact point to line up with the edge of the teeth.


OK cheers for the tip.


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## Max Power (26 May 2020)

If your blade is decent it should go through that like a hot knife through butter. 
No need to complicate a simple task, just get it done


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## johnnyb (18 Jun 2020)

you need sympathy for your tools. and watch th material. but the saw will go straight through no problem


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## cookiemonster (18 Jun 2020)

Why use the table saw at all? A nice big knife-wall all round and then a hand saw would have the job done in minutes.


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## Inspector (18 Jun 2020)

Your picture shows a combination blade in the saw. If sharp it should cut without splintering but a crosscut blade would be better if you have one. I'd cut it with the blade at full height in one go. 

Pete


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