# Drum sander project started.



## Lons (24 Jan 2017)

I decided i couldn't give Axminster £750 for a new jet 10-20 :roll: so nothing else for it but to get my old bones out of the chair and make one.

Many youtube videos and a few scribbled sketches and a few hours work results in some progress using stuff from my piles of treasured items. I'm making it up as I go along tbh but can't see why it won't work. Parts are semi finished so quite a lot to clean up before varnishing the ply.

A couple of self centering bearings, 5/8" steel rod, old 1ph motor, 25mm ply, 22mm melamine faced board, some 6mm inserts, ( I drilled 3 hinge points at the back with inserts on back of ply sides and in the edge of the table. Fitted in the centre hole but dropping down will allow up to 130mm thick material ). Intend to make the drum from 110mm pvc soil pipe but will support well into the ends and stepped ends with turned ply, mdf ?. Only has a width capacity of around 350mm as was limited by the length of shaft I have but will have to be enough!
I'll make up a mechanism to raise and lower the table front probably with side guides through routed groove so I can lock it off and later decide whether to make up some kind of infeed roller. Dust hood most likely out of ply and polycarbonate.

My first idea was to make the feed table from 25mm Mistral solid surface but then found the melamine board which is dense and heavy.

Any ideas or thoughts are most welcome btw 
I don't expect rapid progress because I'm known to procrastinate so this could take a long, long time. Cr*p pics from phone.  

Bob


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## Honest John (25 Jan 2017)

After much soul searching, talking myself out of it several times, after several visits to Axminster Warrington I might say, I eventually succumbed to my desires and bought the damn thing just after the brexit result when Jet prices shot up about 10%. Should have done it earlier I thought. Delaying cost me 10% I thought. Damn damn I thought. Then I got it home. This is brilliant I thought. Then 2 days later I decided I'd have a run out to Turners Retreat to their autumn show. The first thing I came across was a nice man on a Jet stand selling a range of their machines. The star of his mans display was the 10-20 Drum sander, including the stand, for about £250 less than I paid to Axminster (without the stand) only 2 days earlier! Oh dear I thought..... words to that effect. When I was looking for one I couldn't find anyone selling them for a price different from the Axminster price. Indeed it sniffed of a price fixing arrangement. 
I've put it behind me now. It doesn't affect me much now. I've started sleeping again and the blood pressure is more or less under control. On the positive side, the machine is all I expected of it, and gets used most days when I'm in my shop.


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## xiphidius (25 Jan 2017)

Nice one Lons ...following with interest but as you say I may have to shave a few times in-between lol...All the best with the project and good luck with the results..
BTW where did you get the bearings and the rod from, what is the dia of the shaft and what will you use to connect the motor to the shaft...suriosity killed the cat lol
Regards
C


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## curtisrider (25 Jan 2017)

Watching this with interest as I want to build one in the near future!


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## Lons (25 Jan 2017)

xiphidius":dysbnzfb said:


> Nice one Lons ...following with interest but as you say I may have to shave a few times in-between lol...All the best with the project and good luck with the results..
> BTW where did you get the bearings and the rod from, what is the dia of the shaft and what will you use to connect the motor to the shaft...suriosity killed the cat lol
> Regards
> C



Can't remember where I got the "goodies" as I've had them for a long time but if you google bearing blocks or plumber blocks they're easily available with different bores so you can match up with what you have or buy both from scratch.

These are 5'8" and luckily I had a length of steel the same dia to use as a shaft. The old 1ph motor happens to be 5/8" as well though that wouldn't matter. It's a 1425 rpm so I need to work out best speed for the drum and sort out correct size pulleys to suit - haven't got that far yet. Will just use standard V pulleys and belt and will mount the motor under to suit.

Build so far is dead easy tbh, would be even easier if I'd just hinged at the back with door hinges but the 6mm bolts / inserts work really well and give me the option of relocating the feed table if I want so it's not at a steep angle when thicknessing thin stock. Well that's the theory anyway. :lol: 

My thinking behind the drum is firstly I have a length of soil pipe already, it looks a great surface and 110mm seems enough and it should hopefully be more durable than the usual MDF drum. I'll need to make sure it's balanced and might well have to make a full MDF roller to fit inside the pipe to give it some mass - don't know yet.

I wouldn't bother shaving while watching progress btw, just grow a beard. :wink: 

Bob


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## sploo (25 Jan 2017)

Watching with interest as this is on my TODO list too.

Some thoughts from having researched others' builds: 5/8" rod may be a bit small (leading to sag or whip). 1" or 25mm seems to be a good choice.

The plastic pipe may not be as round as you'd need. Generally people seem to make the drum from a stack of MDF or plywood discs, then put a sheet of coarse paper on their table and slowly raise it into the drum in order to sand it perfectly round (and true to the table).


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## xiphidius (25 Jan 2017)

On the bore of the rod would it would it not make sense to buy a bobbin sander core or cores then you can get the belts easily and buy a rod to suit the dia. of these sleeves.???? Even if not heavy duty attach a drill instead of a motor...just sayin like lol


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## Lons (25 Jan 2017)

sploo":2pw6skzk said:


> Watching with interest as this is on my TODO list too.
> 
> Some thoughts from having researched others' builds: 5/8" rod may be a bit small (leading to sag or whip). 1" or 25mm seems to be a good choice.
> 
> The plastic pipe may not be as round as you'd need. Generally people seem to make the drum from a stack of MDF or plywood discs, then put a sheet of coarse paper on their table and slowly raise it into the drum in order to sand it perfectly round (and true to the table).



Thanks, all comments and suggestions welcome, it keeps the grey matter working and might save me some expensive mistakes.

Time will tell, but the whole point really is to make it out of as much as I have already rather than buy then if it's disappointing there's little lost and I've learned along the way.

I already had both the 5/8" bar and bearings to suit so guess I saved maybe £50 or £60 and the bar is over that short length, almost impossible to bend. If I was buying all from scratch then thicker shaft and bearings to suit would always be a good idea.

From what I read and watched plywood can vary and be unbalanced so as you say MDF is favourite however it also seems that MDF doesn't stay true and has to be trued up occasionally. I've just been out and checked the pipe by drawing a circle around it and checking that with a compass and it seems perfectly round to me but my idea was to form an MDF drum anyway to give some mass, I would do that on the lathe, leave it fractionally oversize for the inside of the pipe and follow the youtube videos to do as you say to true it to the table so the pipe will be a tight fit over. There is enough pipe wall thickness to skim a fraction off if nec. What I have already done is ensure the shaft is exactly parallel with the table so I don't see a problem that I can't solve.

I was looking for something to adapt for the rise and fall mechanism and found the perfect thing, a 12" G clamp but couldn't bring myself to destroy it so I guess I'll be buying some threaded rod and nuts. I have some bits that are too short. but even I'm not mean enough to weld it together #-o :lol: 



> On the bore of the rod would it would it not make sense to buy a bobbin sander core or cores then you can get the belts easily and buy a rod to suit the dia. of these sleeves.???? Even if not heavy duty attach a drill instead of a motor...just sayin like lol



Not something that had crossed my mind. :-k 
Everything I've looked at uses rolls of abrasive fitted at an angle and secured both ends and I've found 5 and 10 metre rolls on the internet at cheap prices so has to be the way to go. Also would mean having to take off the drum to change abrasive, can yo get sleeves 360 long btw?
As I already have a HD induction 1 hp motor doing nothing I can't see anything else to beat that, especially when it's so quiet as well.

Rough sketch of drum detail as I see it but still evolving, sketch not quite accurate as intention is for the h/w to be stepped to the inside of the pipe for additional support.


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## mayo.mick (25 Jan 2017)

Following with interest


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## sploo (26 Jan 2017)

I'm not sure the sander bobbin sleeves would work well - it's likely they'd slip. Usually they're tightened by squeezing the bobbin across its length, and that would be hard (to do evenly) across a longer run and/or multiple bobbins and sleeves.

Re 5/8" rod; the short length may be OK. I'd be worried about whip though (like when you have a thin spindle on the lathe).

Filling the pipe with MDF for mass poses an interesting question; if I were to make a sander I'd definitely go with a heavy MDF or ply drum, but then the commercial machines seem to have relatively lightweight extruded (hollow) sections that I assume are made from aluminium. Not something a DIYer could replicate, but it's interesting that they don't go for mass. No idea why though.


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## Lons (26 Jan 2017)

sploo":jvzpvp15 said:


> I'm not sure the sander bobbin sleeves would work well - it's likely they'd slip. Usually they're tightened by squeezing the bobbin across its length, and that would be hard (to do evenly) across a longer run and/or multiple bobbins and sleeves.
> 
> Re 5/8" rod; the short length may be OK. I'd be worried about whip though (like when you have a thin spindle on the lathe).
> 
> Filling the pipe with MDF for mass poses an interesting question; if I were to make a sander I'd definitely go with a heavy MDF or ply drum, but then the commercial machines seem to have relatively lightweight extruded (hollow) sections that I assume are made from aluminium. Not something a DIYer could replicate, but it's interesting that they don't go for mass. No idea why though.



I have another length of 5/8 bar just a little shorter and this morning I stuck the end in a metal vice and tried to bend it by pushing, it never moved and I'm pretty sure it's just mild steel so it's worth the risk I think, time will tell. If it doesn't work I'mm reclaim the bits and build a better one or put my hand in my pocket and pay what seems a hefty price for the Jet. Not sure if whip would be an issue as it will revolve at relatively low speed, don't know though so good point.

As a former builder I used pvc soil pipe and it's pretty rigid stuff which is why I'm prepared to give it a go, I could always make up a new drum from mdf if it doesn't.
I guess lightweight aluminium is rigid enough and it's a cost factor but surely a heavier drum, if balanced is better? Again I don't know.

I did see a flaw in mine today #-o The idea of three hinge positions won't work as although I drilled very accurately I can't be sure that moving the hinge won't put the table out of parallel with the drum so it will end as one fixed position - might as well have used door hinges. :roll:

EDIT:
Just thinking a bit more about possible "whip" forces. I don't think it will matter as the shaft will be supported along its whole length by the mass of the mdf so all the force would be concentrated where the shaft goes through the ply and into the bearings, or am I wrong on that? Certainly would be disappointed if the machine shakes itself to bits.


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## transatlantic (26 Jan 2017)

I think most DIY'ers go for a soild MDF or Plywood drum as it's easy to true up. You can't really true up PVC pipe, at least not by much.

If you went with Aluminium tubing, you could get a thick gauge which would give you something to true, but how would you secure the rod?


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## Walney Col (26 Jan 2017)

MDF discs on a 5/8" mild steel bar running in pillow blocks will be plenty rigid enough, plus (being solid) it would be a doddle to balance the drum should it need it.

Col.


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## Lons (26 Jan 2017)

transatlantic":v590d5ds said:


> I think most DIY'ers go for a soild MDF or Plywood drum as it's easy to true up. You can't really true up PVC pipe, at least not by much.
> 
> If you went with Aluminium tubing, you could get a thick gauge which would give you something to true, but how would you secure the rod?



I actually have a bit of 6mm walled ali tube but the dia is only 60mm so no good.

I covered my thinking on trueing up the drum in an earlier post and because I'll be truing the mdf inner core first as well as being very accurate setting out initially I can overcome that I think, or not perhaps. If the core is accurate then the pipe fitting over it should be as well :lol: The pipe has about 3mm wall thickness so room for a little if I have to however I think the reason for wide use of mdf is down to other things as well and I hope my drum will be more accurate before truing on the sander than some of the ones I've seen on youtube.

I'm going to have egg on my face if this doesn't work, won't be the first time! :lol:


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## sploo (26 Jan 2017)

Lons":3hfmuyar said:


> transatlantic":3hfmuyar said:
> 
> 
> > I think most DIY'ers go for a soild MDF or Plywood drum as it's easy to true up. You can't really true up PVC pipe, at least not by much.
> ...


Can't help thinking that, if you're going to the effort of making the MDF discs, then what's gained by using the soil pipe? As transatlantic notes, truing up the PVC pipe may be difficult; whereas sandpaper on the table under the MDF discs should work well.

As for issues with the 5/8" rod: I'd forgotten you were "only" going with ~360mm length. That's shorter than what I've seen from those that had problems with the smaller rod (i.e. you may well be OK).


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## Lons (26 Jan 2017)

sploo":21i1c0ih said:


> Can't help thinking that, if you're going to the effort of making the MDF discs, then what's gained by using the soil pipe? As transatlantic notes, truing up the PVC pipe may be difficult; whereas sandpaper on the table under the MDF discs should work well.
> As for issues with the 5/8" rod: I'd forgotten you were "only" going with ~360mm length. That's shorter than what I've seen from those that had problems with the smaller rod (i.e. you may well be OK).


Hi Sploo, because the pipe is smooth and durable compared to mdf and seems it might be better to me. If I'm not happy with it then worst scenario as I see it is I remove the pipe and true the hardwood ends, ( about 20mm wide each side) and I still have an mdf drum only a few mm less in dia. Ok a bit more effort initially but could be the bees knees or a sows ear, don't know until I try.

On a different aspect, I don't care for the usual method of a threaded bar just resting on a metal plate under the feed table as I feel it could slip and allow the table to move although I am planning a fixing each side through slots in the ply sides. My thoughts at the minute are to drill and tap a length of larger bar to make a tubular nut to fix to the base in a slot allowing movement front to back to accommodate the very slight curve as the table is lifted. Top of rod would have threads removed and be held captive through a fixed plate by washers and split pins though I'd need to make it a good fit to avoid slop.
I might do a quick sketch later for opinions as just in my head at the minute. The max thickness of threaded rod I have in stock is 10mm which probably isn't sturdy enough so if no obvious design flaws I'll mock it up and if works will buy some 20mm (if I have a tap) or might even sacrifice that G clamp. :-k

cheers Bob


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## Lons (26 Jan 2017)

Walney Col":12jml64q said:


> MDF discs on a 5/8" mild steel bar running in pillow blocks will be plenty rigid enough, plus (being solid) it would be a doddle to balance the drum should it need it.
> 
> Col.


That's what I'm hoping Col but the proof is in the puuding.


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## Lons (26 Jan 2017)

OK these are my thoughts on a possible rise and fall arrangement.

Any thoughts, will it work, is it over complicated?

edit: Think a single central bearing point on the feed table isn't clever so maybe use a length of steel angle along the front edge instead of just a plate, or is that overkill?


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## sploo (26 Jan 2017)

Understood on the pipe - it'll be interesting to see how it goes.

Agreed on the rise and fall mechanism - I've often thought the same with other DIY builds I've seen. Some designs have arced slots in the sides of the frame, and bolts with knobs going through the slots into the sides of the table - once the height is set you tighten the table with the knobs (so the slightly floppy rise and fall mechanism isn't such a problem).

Your design looks good - though I guess the top washer and split pin system would have to have really tight tolerances, as if it can move by 0.1mm that's probably about the depth of pass on a sander anyway. It reminds me somewhat of one of these: http://barn-door-tracker.co.uk/

Most of the modern open sided machines have a single threaded rod that lifts the whole motor and drum assembly (table is fixed) but I think that'd be hard to DIY with sufficiently quality.


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## Lons (27 Jan 2017)

Yep my intention is to slot the sides and make up 6mm threaded rod with turned knobs to lock the table. What I was going to do was tape a pencil to the feed table and raise it to mark a piece of thin card, transfer that to mdf, cut out on scrollsaw to make template for router guide and cut the slots. Bet there's an easier way I don't know about. #-o 

I have a couple of ideas on eliminating play at the top of the rod but need to try out.

Thanks for the link, I've never seen a barn door tracker, very interesting. It's only a few months since we were at the Kielder Observatory and saw the telescopes, a bit more sophisticated though.


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## xy mosian (27 Jan 2017)

Great, I like home built machines, using basically whatever is to hand. Normally good fun, in the end, too.
On the lift mechanism. Your tubular nut is going to be some diameter. How about a rod welded to opposing sides of a nut?
As you are planning a clamping arrangement of the adjusted feed table there should not be a great deal of force on the adjustment mechanism.
xy


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## sploo (27 Jan 2017)

Lons":1bdwugge said:


> Yep my intention is to slot the sides and make up 6mm threaded rod with turned knobs to lock the table. What I was going to do was tape a pencil to the feed table and raise it to mark a piece of thin card, transfer that to mdf, cut out on scrollsaw to make template for router guide and cut the slots. Bet there's an easier way I don't know about. #-o


Sounds pretty good to me. You could calculate the arc, drill a hole at either end and hack out with a jigsaw; but your template and router method will give a much nicer looking result.


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## Lons (27 Jan 2017)

Had an hour spare this morning to cut the mdf disks ready to be glued up, also a couple of 25mm ply ends but not happy with those so will revert back to hardwood. What I have done though is take comments about the drum to heart and I think might just drop the idea of the pipe and stay with mdf / hardwood ends. Might change my mind again of course which has been known.  The mdf if I give it a couple of coats of varnish or sanding sealer will be hard enough after all.

I can't heat my workshop, too high and too many draughts and it was just below freezing this morning so it will have to wait.


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## Lons (28 Jan 2017)

Ok decided definitey to accept advice and ditch the pipe idea so glued up the drum this afternoon, used 30mm ash for each end and epoxied a key on to flat on shaft but forgot to cut the section to hold abrasive #-o so that will be a multitool job later.

Drilled and tapped a bit of alloy rod to make the barrel nut for 12mm threaded bar so that's the lift mechanism started. Onwards and upwards.


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## Lons (28 Jan 2017)

xy mosian":1vq38cqv said:


> Great, I like home built machines, using basically whatever is to hand. Normally good fun, in the end, too.
> On the lift mechanism. Your tubular nut is going to be some diameter. How about a rod welded to opposing sides of a nut?
> As you are planning a clamping arrangement of the adjusted feed table there should not be a great deal of force on the adjustment mechanism.
> xy



Using some 12mm threaded rod I unearthed and a bit of 20mm alloy rod which will comfortably sit withing the table thickness.
Hopefully that's ok with a metal plate under the base and a plate recessed into the base top surface. I've found a decent length of alloy angle for the underside of the feed table so will be well supported.

I know what you mean about home builds, I find them fascinating as well even when no intention of having a go.

cheers
Bob


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## xy mosian (28 Jan 2017)

Sorry Lons, I'd missed the diameter of the adjustment bar being 12mm. I brought to mind the larger diameter threaded bar. 
Everyrhing is looking good so far  
xy


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## Lons (28 Jan 2017)

xy mosian":3d3gup2i said:


> Sorry Lons, I'd missed the diameter of the adjustment bar being 12mm. I brought to mind the larger diameter threaded bar.
> Everyrhing is looking good so far
> xy



If I'd seen Cols' router lathe build earlier I might have splashed out on some ACME bar. I did look at 16 and 20 threaded bar but the 12mm seems pretty strong and if not I can always change.

Gives a real buzz and so far not a penny spent on materials so can't lose as if it's cr*p I cal reclaim the important bits anyway.


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## sploo (29 Jan 2017)

Lons":3srhytg9 said:


> Gives a real buzz and so far not a penny spent on materials so can't lose as if it's cr*p I cal reclaim the important bits anyway.


That is a good feeling 

I have a 3hp induction motor I've been keeping for years; intended for a bandsaw build, but I suspect I may build a drum sander first. I'm sure 3hp wouldn't be overkill... would it :mrgreen:


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## AES (29 Jan 2017)

Also watching with interest - book marked, thanks for posting.

Somewhere up above (sorry, only just seen this thread) somewhere asked about bearings and housings. One good source I found (I'm sure there are others) is Arc Eurotrade in UK. The have a wide range of "Plumber Blocks" and "Bearing Blocks" in different sizes and geometries. Many feature self-aligning bearings (i.e. the ball race is housed in a spherical housing, so that within quite broad limits, you don't have to worry too much about alignment of the shaft at each end). Good on line and paper Catalogue (lots of "general engineering" small tools and machines too). Prices seem reasonable to me and I found their service excellent.

Usual disclaimers. There's a link to them (and others) in the sticky at the top of the separate Metalworking section here.

HTH

AES


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## Lons (29 Jan 2017)

A bit more progress this afternoon:

Drum is solid and ready for the abrasive slots to be cut, (wish I'd remembered before gluing!) so got to work on the lift mechanism. Was a little unsure 12mm would be strong enough but seems fine. There is a small amount of movement due to slip at the base end / barrel nut but it isn't much and as I'll be fitting clamps to the side of the table, I'm sure it will work. Certainly the operation is smooth enough though I got tired of winding by hand without a handwheel and resorted to a drill. :lol: 

Pics are self explanatory, threaded rod is held captive through the alloy angle which fits to the underside of the feed table, by a nut, drilled through, pinned and ground roughly round, I stuck it with epoxy for good measure. Angle is sanwiched between washers and another nut under drilled and held with cotter pin. This is as tight as I could while still allowing the rod to turn.

Main base was slotted and alloy angle rebated and fixed from underneath to form durable sides, I then fitted a sub base of melamine covered ply, (offcut of bathroom wall board) and extended the front of the baseboard around it (had made it too short, dozy git  ).

Cut a slider plate out of 3mm polypropylene which brought the top of the barrel nut level with base surface for a good fit once the top alloy retaining plate was fitted.

Not the prettiest job but hopefully functional.

Won't get anything done tomorrow, babysitting a lively 3 year old granddaughter sees to that. :lol:


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## xy mosian (31 Jan 2017)

That's coming along well. I like the 'using stored treasure' approach as well.
Am I right assuming that the slot around the lower mount of the adjustment bar is to avoid a flexible joint at the other end? Clever!
You have fired up my 'can I ?' brain bits now. I find myself wondering if I can mount my 4" belt sander as a thicknesser. Not very wide but useful for some jobs in the near future. Unless I change my mind of course.
Have fun, ain't that what it's all about if we are lucky.
xy


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## Lons (3 Feb 2017)

Quite a bit of progress today so not too far off now. Waiting for pulleys, belt and abrasive roll to be delivered then I can get it running and the drum trued, sort out dust extraction and electrics plus cut some slots in the drum to hold the abrasive and I'm there. \/ 

* I modified the sides so removal of 8 bolts allows me to take out the drum complete with bearings.
* Cut slots for the side clamps, rebated alloy angle to the feed table drilled and tapped to take 6mm rod (epoxied a nut behind for good measur, turned knobs for handles.
* Made a handle for the lift rod
* Mounted some abrasive on a sub table ready to true up the drum.
* Cut a couple of 10mm thick spacers for the drum shaft out of srbp sheet.
* Made a hood, just locates into holes via 4 plastic dowels. Still have the hole and connector for dust extraction to sort.

A lot of cleaning up to do especially around the slots for side clamps which are rough despite using a router but all seems to work well so far.


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## Lons (3 Feb 2017)

More photos


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## Lons (3 Feb 2017)

xy mosian":1lsx7dj5 said:


> I find myself wondering if I can mount my 4" belt sander as a thicknesser. Not very wide but useful for some jobs in the near future. Unless I change my mind of course.xy



I'm sure I've seen a youtube video doing exactly that.


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## murphy (3 Feb 2017)

Lons, when you are trueing up the drum take VERY light cuts to start with, otherwise you will get vibration and it will make the drum go off round and will be hard to get it round again, I had this problem years ago when I used MDF discs, mine was 22" wide and had 1" steel rod through the middle, (as your's is not as wide it might be okay) and found the only way was light cuts, once the drum was trued I covered it with self adhesive velcro and velcro sandpaper which worked great and I still us velcro now on the metal drum I got on ebay, this is the sandpaper I use and find it lasts a long time http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SAIT-5mX115mm ... Swa~BYPZDI


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## AES (3 Feb 2017)

Lons, I haven't yet even started to build a drum sander, but just yesterday I was watching a Youtube by an English lady, Susan Gardener, who seems pretty good, and about truing up the drum, she said exactly the same as murphy has above (very light cuts to start with).

HTH

AES


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## Lons (3 Feb 2017)

Thanks for the links and advice guys, I'll take that advice. I'm hoping the solid ash ends will help keep the soft mdf in check.
Bob


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## Lons (7 Feb 2017)

Got a bit more done yesterday afternoon so very close to the finishing line now. Should be operational bey the end of the week. \/ 

* Sorted electrics though probably swap for a NVR switch at some stage. * Dust ext. port cut * Motor mounted * Drum trued up * whole thing screwed together and put on a mobile base 'cos it's bl**dy heavy.

It runs very well with hardly any vibration so the drum seems well balanced and I'm pretty happy with it so all that's left to do is cut slots in the drum, fit abrasive and make a cover for the pulleys / belt and see how it works.


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## AES (7 Feb 2017)

Great, well done. Still following with great interest.

I don't have a planer/thicknesser but as I don't usually use girt big lumps of rough sawn timer I'm thinking a drum sander (to go with my drill press sanding drums) would be a big help for the smaller stuff such as toys which is my usual fare.

Will you be fitting self adhesive Velcro or perhaps thin rubber/plastic sheet to the drum as an "underlay" to the sanding sheet?

I read somewhere that provided the "underlay" is not too soft, this helps with the overall finish of the sanded job off the machine. Any comments?

AES


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## sploo (7 Feb 2017)

Very nice - looking really good now.

On the subject of "underlay" - pretty much any commercial machine I've seen uses a metal drum, with paper wrapped directly around it and held with clips.

I guess there are cost factors that drive the design of commercial machines, but if underlay or velcro backing was a good idea I assume you'd see it in at least the more expensive machines (which I haven't) - so personally I'd just go for the raw drum and clip decent sandpaper to it.


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## AES (7 Feb 2017)

Thanks for that sploo. Having never actually seen a real drum sander "in the flesh", that's a useful comment. As ever when looking at stuff on the net, one has to do a bit of "filtering" of the info provided, and I can't remember off hand if people who I do think seem to know there onions use "underlay" or not. I think Matthias Wandell and Marius Hornberger do not use underlay, but I seem to remember that at least Stumpy Nubs does (mind you I also seem to remember he went for a powered through feed system as well)!

As I haven't even started on a drum sander yet (and won't be buying one) it'll be interesting to sit back a while longer and see how lons gets on without.

Again lons, thanks for a very useful thread.

AES


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## Lons (7 Feb 2017)

Change of plans today so spent a few hours in the workshop and I've actually finished it - I'm amazed 'cos I rarely finish anything. :roll: 
Anyway have tried it and happy with the results though possibly make a couple of minor modifications at some stage but the main thing is that it works ! \/ 

Will post later as am about to go out soon.

Bob


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## xy mosian (7 Feb 2017)

Well done, it's great to hear that it is finished.  
But before you use it too much, please show me how you fix the sandpaper. I just cannot get my head around that bit.
xy


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## Lons (7 Feb 2017)

OK here it is finished though it needs a few weeks testing to make sure it works longer term. My method of holding the abrasive is simple, just worked out angle the abrasive would sit around the drum, cut a slot with a multitool and inserted the abrasive, shoved in a thin plastic insert and secured with a small screw., tightened the abrasive around the drum and repeated at the other end, then trimmed off the excess abrasive with a Stanley knife. 
What I did find was that it stretched very slightly so needed to tighten and refit one end. The drum remained balanced btw.

It works but not entirely happy so I'm thinking of forming a shallow flat recess instead so I can just lay the end into it and secure with either a flat metal plate or cup washer / screw which would be easier to adjust. These would of course be below drum surface.

I used 60g x 115mm wide cloth backed abrasive off ebay as it was much cheaper than 75mm wide which I think would be easier to wind on, my original idea being to cut it down to 75mm but seems ok as is.

I ran a few bits of timber through including s/w, rosewood and ash. All came out flat but would need finer paper to finish. Pics taken on iphone so a bit rubbish.

Conclusion:
Did I enjoy making it?................ yes, definitely.
Did it take long?........................ yes though didn't keep count of hours.
Did it cost much?....................... not in my case as all I bought were 2 pulleys, a V belt and 5m of abrasive so under £30 without labour.
Is it as good as a Jet?................no, but saved £750

However, if you don't have time to spare and cost your time at say £15 an hour plus need to buy all the materials then bite the bullet and buy one. :lol:


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## n0legs (7 Feb 2017)

Looks great Bob =D> 
£750 saving can't be sniffed at, brilliant result.


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## murphy (8 Feb 2017)

Nice job Lons


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## xy mosian (8 Feb 2017)

Great Bob, thanks for the abrasive fixing information. I pleased you enjoyed making it, and the sense of saving cash adds to the enjoyment. Tremendous.
What's next then?
xy


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## Lons (8 Feb 2017)

xy mosian":17f1c4gk said:


> What's next then? xy



I need to start actually making something :lol: :lol: Got half a dozen nearly finished jigsaws for my granddaughter just sitting on the bench.

Got 5 weeks away in Canada and Alaska in a few months time and loads of work to do at home before then. This retirement lark is hard work. :wink:


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## xy mosian (8 Feb 2017)

A full time future eh?.
It looks as if you really are planned well. I only asked in jest really. My head seems to buzz with things I would like to do but never quite get around to.

xy


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## Lons (8 Feb 2017)

xy mosian":gkwr6uh6 said:


> A full time future eh?.
> It looks as if you really are planned well. I only asked in jest really. My head seems to buzz with things I would like to do but never quite get around to.
> 
> xy


I know the feeling, it's what keeps me awake at night!

I have so many unfinished projects, a big box of carvings in various stages of completion, half finished marquetry pic of the kids when little, started that one 28 years ago  a couple of very nice stick shafts that have been "seasoning" for 15 years and the rams horn to go with them, an electric go cart out of a old golf trolley which I've promised my granddaughter will be ready this summer.
Plus a huge list of one day maybe.

Bob


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## sploo (10 Feb 2017)

Great looking end result!

BTW Susie Gardner has a good video series on a sander she made - with some useful info on cutting blocks to hold the paper. She also mentioned that the sandpaper stretches after first use, which is why I assume some of the commercial machines have spring loaded hooks that will automatically take up the slack. Not easy to DIY that though.


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