# Galoot Block Plane - WIP



## jimi43 (22 Jan 2010)

Well...since reading Derek from Oz's fantastic thread "Galoot Smoother II", I have learned three things...

1) What the hell "Galoot" means (yup...sheltered life I know!)

2) That describes me exactly!!!

3) I wanted to build one!

So....since I have more smoothers than I need and don't have a decent block plane I thought I would take a very "not decent" one and make my very own Galoot Block plane....

If you have read Derek's thread which I partially hijacked you will remember this Stanley 110 which was scheduled for the bin....







A mate gave it to me and it had a broken wheel and a pretty rubbish body as you can see!

I fettled it up a bit and it came out really well but could do with further work later...






I didn't want to waste too much time at this because I wasn't sure how it would come out....

Next was the issue of the wood to use for the infill....which was quickly solved by our dear friend John...(benchwayze) when he so very generously offered me this gorgeous piece of mahogany he had going spare:






It was perfectly cut and arrived really quickly despite the snow! I really was nervous about cutting it up as it is so very easy with mahogany to get the "terrible mixed grain" scenario if you are not careful and I really wanted to bring out the beautiful grain whilst keeping the cut strong enough for the front tote...

So today...the first day of my leave...I bit the bullet and took the saw to it...cutting the approximate width from the original block:






This was then cut at the correct angle to give a right angle between the frog infill and the tote infill...the plan being to keep the original slope on the frog....

I was really dying to try out my Aled shoulder plane build and this project gave me the ideal opportunity since the front step will be retained and so the infill tote needs to be cut to fit this flush:






I wish to point out that I don't use a plane like this! I had the camera in the other hand as my trusty cameralady was at work...boy Aled...is your plane SUPERB!!!






Nice fit!!






I ground the "STANLEY" name off the front of the tote but retained the original knob stub because this is probably going to be the only thing that is going to hold the new infill on! I think I will epoxy the tote in and see how it goes...I might put some brass studs in but not sure I have the room yet...

Even though the weather is FAR warmer and the shop was up to 50 degrees today with a little heating...I decided to take the job inside and finish off the infill with the little Greaves plane and progressive work with 3M Micromesh....I wanted to get this mirror finish without any actual finish yet to see how the grain turns out...I was not disappointed!!






I am going to leave the detailed work until tomorrow, some bevels and counter curves like Derek's beautiful work...






but I am rather pleased with the job so far....this is going to be a nice plane...






That's all for now folks...

Jim


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## lurker (22 Jan 2010)

Interesting! Cos I have several of those lying around.

I'll be following your WIP closely Jim.
Personally I think I'd have made the front tote block flush with the sides (more overhang).


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## bugbear (22 Jan 2010)

jimi43":15tuma63 said:


> I wish to point out that I don't use a plane like this! I had the camera in the other hand as my trusty cameralady was at work



Tripod and self-timer is the way (says Alf, of splendid WIP shots)

BugBear (with a tripod problem)


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## wizer (22 Jan 2010)

Watching this with interest as I also have one of those that I've been wondering what to do with.


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## Alf (22 Jan 2010)

bugbear":18tfqfqn said:


> BugBear (with a tripod problem)


Did you get your vertical camera holding in a tripod device* working in the end, btw? I was reminded.

Looking forward to seeing how this goes, Jim. Some years ago† I had a go at this with a no-name #4.5 - but didn't grind any of the protrusions away first. Fitting the infill was... exacting. And the end result was hideous in the extreme. Fairly sure I removed all traces of its existence for my own peace of mind. :lol: Yours is already 3000% nicer.

*I have a way with naming things
†B.C. Before Cohen. :wink:


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## head clansman (22 Jan 2010)

hi jim 

looking nice ,your away to a good start then jim , i'm still looking for a donor plane at the mo to do mine, looking for something a bit bigger and a wee bit different , know it when i see it, unfortunately haven't been out since getting back from holland down with heavy cold and cough, honestly doc say i had to have the swine flu jab back in novemeber because i'm diabetic, i've been i'll ever since , i'll be glad to go out and get some fresh air hopefully soon .hc 

ps keep the pics coming


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## Modernist (22 Jan 2010)

I think it would look nicer if the front of the sole was ground back flush to the infill accross the base and up the sides so there was no little "toe" sticking out.

Just a thought


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## Racers (22 Jan 2010)

Hi, Jim

Who did that to the nice (marples?) bevel edge chisel?




Pete


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## jimi43 (22 Jan 2010)

Watcha guys...

Being on leave I posted this at some unearthly hour last night (morning) and read with interest the replies.

Firstly the block and overhang. I had been thinking about this and started out facing up the block oversized to see what it looked like and then comparing this with Derek's excellent Galoot Smoother II:






Obviously this is an aesthetic thing with possibly structural merit to a degree and I tossed this around in my mind for a while...and to some extent I thought that to be traditional it should overhang and be flush with the front base.

Tell ya what...See that large lump left...I will use that cut flush for another front tote and do one overhanging and flush and we can have a vote on it later today...

Camera...yup..I have a SLIK 88 which will do vertical and horizontal and the D80 does have a timer...but I was bleedin' freezing by that point and couldn't be bothered to go and set it all up....sorry Alf!!!

SLIK 88 is your answer to vertical though...great tripod that...(bootfair - fiver)

HC...I am diabetic too and missed my swine flu jab (did the "flu" one though) because I was a little sick. Glad I did now! I know EXACTLY what you mean about the "different" base. I was thinking only last night that the next one I do will not be a STANLEY base because they are so obvious in their design...like Fender, like Coke bottles, Nike ticks....and this makes it look hybrid.

I think that Derek's looks better because of the added bevel and I will be doing that also...but it would be much better if you could find a more anonymous one...what about a French or German one? HEY...there must be a super Swiss one out there? Imagine that engineering is superb!

Pete...yup a Marples bevel chisel...again a bootfair job...that had in its previous life been hit by a sledge hammer splitting the beautiful handle to kingdom come. It will be the recipient of a new handle when I source a knackered chisel of the same ilk....but until that day cometh...close your eyes mate...it CUTS beeeeutifully!

Cheers guys

Jim


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## Racers (22 Jan 2010)

Hi, Jim

I am glad you saved from further abuse, but next time cover the wound. :wink: 

Get the IR remote for your D80, hands free shooting!


Pete


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## bugbear (22 Jan 2010)

Alf":2ggen45b said:


> bugbear":2ggen45b said:
> 
> 
> > BugBear (with a tripod problem)
> ...



This?






BugBear


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## Alf (22 Jan 2010)

That'll be it. I'm assuming that's a 'yes' then?  

And no need to apologise to me, Jim. I don't actually 'say' self timer and tripod; it's just what I do, most of the time. Occasionally I've been known to hold the camera under my chin and all sorts. :lol:


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## head clansman (22 Jan 2010)

hi jim 



> HC...I am diabetic too and missed my swine flu jab (did the "flu" one though) because I was a little sick. Glad I did now! I know EXACTLY what you mean about the "different" base. I was thinking only last night that the next one I do will not be a STANLEY base because they are so obvious in their design...like Fender, like Coke bottles, Nike ticks....and this makes it look hybrid.
> 
> I think that Derek's looks better because of the added bevel and I will be doing that also...but it would be much better if you could find a more anonymous one...what about a French or German one? HEY...there must be a super Swiss one out there? Imagine that engineering is superb!



well now , food for thought, a foreigner , hmm maybe, must admit I have been thinking along the line of bedrock , for the extra weight and higher sides think i can do more with it stye, might even try a jack size one but chop it down in length to suit . hc :wink:


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## jimi43 (22 Jan 2010)

Ha! See you give a camera to a woodie and they make a tripod adaptor!

Superb!

Well....there was a point today when I wish I had not bothered with the "flush" front tote as it was really difficult to get the curve right inlaid and align the front and then cut the back but I finally managed it:






The only cock-up I made was to forget that the bottom channel should stop short of the front otherwise it would show...but it was too late when I realised:






I can sort that out with some coloured hot wax later...

I am off to polish this up to make a good comparison and put the fancy bevels in both but at this stage my mind is still split...

Later!

Jim


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## Modernist (22 Jan 2010)

That is so much better Jim. (IMHO) I think a trip to the linisher is called for and it'll look like it was always that way.


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## jimi43 (22 Jan 2010)

The temperature is really dropping here so I decided to come in but so far without polishing...I think it does look better when it is flush....more like an old plane that way...






It does fit tight and really flush...but needs to be glued in first.

I think a dark stain will enhance the grain too....

Anyway...I am going to leave it at that for now...and get on with the frog infill....this is SO relaxing!

Cheers for the feedback guys....more perhaps tomorrow...

Jim


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## Benchwayze (22 Jan 2010)

Coming along nicely Jim... I'm watching with interest, although I don't have a spare casting about me... 

I wait with bated breath.

Good Luck with the project of course.

Regards
John


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## jimi43 (23 Jan 2010)

Cheers John...that piece of mahogany is really nice.

You have to watch the grain...which is why I spent some snow time reflecting on it....I found carving particularly _challenging!_

I was looking at the above picture earlier today and suddenly realised something. If I am to keep the flush tote...I need to file the sides back to square again...DOH!!!

I think it would look really nice to have a bevel/flush transition...

Later!

Jim


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## head clansman (23 Jan 2010)

hi jim 

just bought my donor plane an old t5 jack plane (record) nice high sided with extra thick metal to add some extra weight to it . minds boggling away at the mo, as to how i'm going to set about this . I think first get some really top notch timber , (not sure what yet ) a visit to yandles one day next week perhapes if i can get out , then source a really nice thick blade somewhere, get all the bits first before it's started . hc


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## jimi43 (23 Jan 2010)

Hi HC..

Glad to see that you have found your donor body...any chance of some pictures?

I haven't managed to grind my sides flat yet but I did get a chance to try to age the front piece a bit..it looked too new. To do this I went right through the 3M Micromesh range by hand rather than on a flat surface. This toned the edges a bit which I prefer to touch and to look at:






I suppose I should be thinking about an iron at some point...I think you have the right order in your planning...sort out all the bits, make sure it will work as a decent plane first, THEN tart it up!

I am too impatient for that...I guess I should learn to curb my patience!

More later....

Jim


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## head clansman (23 Jan 2010)

hi jim 

yep here it is , 

http://www.oldtools.co.uk/tools/planes_ ... pl1786.php i'll post some more when i get it .

hc


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## jimi43 (23 Jan 2010)

AH!! I can see right away what you are going to do with that one HC!

Flat rectangular forward tote?

Jim


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## Benchwayze (23 Jan 2010)

head clansman":2xrgkacv said:


> hi jim
> 
> yep here it is ,
> 
> ...



So HC, it was you who beat me to it! :lol: :lol: :lol: 

John


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## head clansman (23 Jan 2010)

hi jim 

nope , at the mo I'm thinking along the lines of a coffin makers smoother , chopping it down in length , but who knows , that could change , maybe your right , I'll wait till i get it and play around with for a while, try a few ideas and see whats the best to do with it. stayed tuned . hc


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## head clansman (23 Jan 2010)

hi john 


sorry about that  :roll: it fitted the ticket real nice for what i want to do to it .hc :wink:


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## jimi43 (23 Jan 2010)

This was what I was thinking about HC

CLICK HERE PIC BIG

Jim


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## head clansman (23 Jan 2010)

jim

real nice ain't they hmm maybe , as i said i'll wait till i get it, then play with a few ideas first pass the ideas past you lot first :lol: , this one will be all trial and errors just to see what can be done really and what type of planes could be made from such a donor plane . hc


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## jimi43 (23 Jan 2010)

Yup HC and isn't that rosewood gorgeous!

Ok...before I work on the back frog infill I wanted to remove some hardware as I have decided that it would be too awkward to align the back infill with the existing protrusions.....and I should rather use these for anchors for the infill itself....so I cut them back so as they are below the ramp surface.







The Dremel comes into its own here but be very slow...and take care not to stress the fine cutting disc or snap it...

It worked rather well...OH...and as Norm would say...there is no greater protection than safety goggles!!

Back later...

Jim


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## jimi43 (25 Jan 2010)

I was dreading the next bit with the rear infill but it went surprisingly well...

Lots of mucking around with the edge to get the back flush but it is nearly there...just a little cleaning up to do...........






I antiqued the mahogany to get it a lot darker as would be expected with age...I just love the way the natural redness of the mahogany is enhanced with dark brown powder stain...mixed with meths...I can't be done with the water based stains...there is still no polish at this stage....

I roughed out the inside and this needs a lot of head scratching tomorrow as, being a small plane...it is difficult to get the Dremel in there..or any other abrasive...not sure what I will use to get this nice and smooth where it shows...

I am leaving it rough where it is to be glued up.

What glue do you think would work here? I was thinking a two part epoxy for this job...suggestions welcome!

Cheers guys

Jim


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## Benchwayze (25 Jan 2010)

Looking good Jim. Nice work.

It's not going to be easy, getting the iron-work looking polished, between the infills. 

I am at aloss to think of a way to go through 'the grades' of abrasive. But I'm sure someone on the forum will come up with an answer.

Regards

John


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## head clansman (25 Jan 2010)

it's coming on nicely jim , someone correct me here if i'm wrong the retaining cross bar is there a screw slot in one end so it can be removed ? if so, might make life a bit easier for you to polish the inner cheeks . hc


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## Philly (25 Jan 2010)

Jim
Epoxy is the way to go - go for normal araldite, not the five minute one.
Cheers
Philly


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## Vann (25 Jan 2010)

head clansman":2wdnaf17 said:


> ...someone correct me here if i'm wrong the retaining cross bar is there a screw slot in one end so it can be removed ? if so, might make life a bit easier for you to polish the inner cheeks .


Good thinking HC. My Stanley 130 and Rapier 110 both have screwed and slotted cross bars, but an old no-name 0110 body appears to have the cross bar rivetted or an interference fit, so good luck Jim. 

Cheers, Vann.


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## xy mosian (25 Jan 2010)

Hi. It's going to be a good looking plane!
As for finishing the inside, For awkward bits I use abrasive glued to lolly pop sticks, the flat ones.

xy


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## head clansman (25 Jan 2010)

hi vann 

I went on the stanley 130 as well , and my other small planes ref the screw slot , I couldn't be sure about jims plane as it show the side with no slot in most off his pics the only shot of the opposite side isn't clear enough to make out if there a slot in the end of the bar or not, hope there is one makes life a wee bit easier . hc


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## jimi43 (25 Jan 2010)

Cheers for the comments and tips guys!

So...epoxy it is then...I never ever use the fast epoxy...it's completely different to the orginal...but thanks for reinforcing that Phil.

Yes...the crossbar is interference fit...I am still thinking about what to do with that at the moment...thanks for the lollypop stick idea xy...nice one!

If I go for the traditional Norris type lever plate...then I could probably use the holes vacated by the bar, suitably enlarged to fit the mounting studs....or I could do a plain wedge, or maybe a combination of the two retaining the original idea of groved wedge with an adjuster as per the original but in brass....

Mmmmm....what do you guys think will look best?

I loved the original and now VERY rare - Shoe-buckle design:






_Picture courtesy of: The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore Planes #100 1/2 - #140 _

I think I would like to emulate that...I wonder if I could possibly carve a rendition of that buckle into a wedge....mmm

Ideas ideas....keeps the brain of an old fart going!

 

Off to get some new epoxy! I think my stock is a tad old!

Jim


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## eoinsgaff (25 Jan 2010)

If, hypothetically speaking, in a situation like this there was a few gaps to be filled, could a fine dust be mixed with the epoxy to fill any gaps or should it be added once the epoxy is in place?

Or, should the dust be mixed with the epoxy to be used as a filler only, not a glue?

Or non of the above maybe?

Eoin


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## jimi43 (25 Jan 2010)

Eoin...I was thinking the very same.....

Because I wanted to move the infills around a bit to adjust the seating, the inside was drilled and chiselled out to give a hole that was not obviously an exact tight fit to the hardware sticking up. 

I don't need the glue to fill all of the orfices but I need it to go quite a way up and around the metalwork.

Some glues are compromised by mixing with contaminents such as dust...but I think epoxy is pretty good at doing this. If there were any slight gaps I was going to match this with hot wax (dark brown) so it became almost invisible. But, even though the above picture shows slight gaps it is because I had not clamped them tight. They do fit in most parts.

The only spaces I will have left will be my cock up on the front infill where I cut the edge channel all the way to the end (DOH!). In my experience....hot wax is pretty good at matching invisibly...hence why traditional French Polishers use it where problems cannot be sorted any other way...

I look forward to views on this though...

Jim


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## wizer (25 Jan 2010)

jimi43":2nkpf78s said:


>



Love this plane! What size is it? It'd look very pretty if it was shiny 8) 8)


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## jimi43 (25 Jan 2010)

This is one of the first Stanley 110 planes Tom.

It was called the "Shoe Buckle" model for obvious reasons....!






I think this is the oldest...

(photo courtesy of www.hanbrunnertools.gil.com.au)


Wouldn't it be lovely to recreate such work as homage to that beautiful moulding work?

I think that mahogany would be too prone to split out for carving...although I am willing to have a go.

I need to search my "treasure bin" for a bit of rosewood I think...

Jim


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## jimi43 (26 Jan 2010)

The tip with the stick (I used a slither of oak - upmarket lollies we have in Kent don'tcha know!) worked fine. Not quite as linear as I would have liked it but the best I could manage with the tight space.

On to the next phase...the gluing up. I did this last night and on Phily's recommendation, used Araldite Original...and then brought her in the house for warmth to speed up curing a bit and bandaged her in tape:







Three P.M. the bandages come off....that is 16 hours after first surgery...and I wrote the time on the tape...mostly to put me off peeking!

So off to polish up an old Starret No.2 micrometer which was in dire need of preservation!

Later peoples...

Jim


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## Benchwayze (26 Jan 2010)

Jim, 

Oak lolly sticks? Do you have smoked lollies then Jim! 

BTW, I just turned out some junk in the shop. Guess what?
I found another piece of that mahogany, not quite as big, but it will make a nice gavel! 

The Galoot Smoother is a coming on well! 
Nice one. 
Regards
John


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## xy mosian (26 Jan 2010)

jimi43":krlf30xv said:


> ...and then brought her in the house for warmth to speed up curing a bit and bandaged her in tape:
> 
> 
> Jim



That plane is begining to look good, but getting to you  

xy


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## jimi43 (26 Jan 2010)

xy mosian":pmrkml4y said:


> jimi43":pmrkml4y said:
> 
> 
> > ...and then brought her in the house for warmth to speed up curing a bit and bandaged her in tape:
> ...



It usually transmutes from "it" to "her" when it gets to the pain in the a&^e bits!!

   

And OF COURSE...in case the beloved is watching...when it becomes a thing of beauty.... :wink: 8) 

BTW...I forgot how bleedin' hard real Araldite gets...I could be a while fettling this one!

Jim


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## jimi43 (27 Jan 2010)

Ok so the bandages came off tonight and I must say..I had quite forgotten how darn strong original Araldite actually is. Amazing stuff when you have the patience!

So there are some gaps and holes...all of my making and mostly mistakes which I guess I will learn by but nothing I am that worried about...

The wood is GLORIOUS John...now I have had a chance to get the surface down...deliberately using 3M MicroMesh because it darkens the wood beautifully and with mahogany enhances the beautiful grain...
















I think tomorrow I will play with that idea of the carved wedge....

I have bought an old iron...made by my old favourite...Isaac Greaves...

My little chariot is without doubt the best plane I have and I use it all the time so I have chosen the same maker of old irons...and luckily it is 1 5/8" which is an exact fit!

I am happy to take any ideas on board here...as this might be the make or break part....and I really should have followed HC's idea of making the plane work first THEN making it....but I didn't and it is too late now...we live and learn...

But I have a good feeling about this one...I have to say the old 110 is CONSIDERABLY heavier now and actually feels like it will whistle along beautifully.

I wedged the old iron (what was left of it) in place and tried it out and it is very comfortable already! A vast improvement!

Later guys and gals

Jim


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## head clansman (27 Jan 2010)

hi jim 

Don't worry so much i'm sure your ideas will all come together nicely and you will end up with a super plane which you will be proud of.

look what turned up today , when I told you I had purchased my donor plane I knew there was a second one on www.oldtools.co uk . Thought about it all day when I check that evening at 5 :20ish it was still for sale so I bought it as well (twins) naughty naughty me :roll: , One is to cut down into a smoother, the best one I'm going to use on a chute board . 

Any one know did record ever make there own chute board :?: . 

Anyone know what size thread the hole in the side is please :?: , I need to make a handle to suite , I think the chances of finding an old is very slim .

Next to source some very nice brazilian rosewood , a trip to yandle maybe next week , lunch out with my old dutch the lady of my life .


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## Philly (27 Jan 2010)

HC
You'll be lucky to find Brazilian Rosewood anywhere - Yandles have some small stocks of "reclaimed" Rosewood, Indonesian, I believe. Otherwise Timberline is the place for rosewood.
Hope this helps,
Philly


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## bugbear (27 Jan 2010)

head clansman":2a01jykb said:


> Any one know did record ever make there own chute board :?: .



It certainly never appeared in any catalogue I've seen if they did, so I'll say "no".

BugBear


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## head clansman (27 Jan 2010)

hi 

thanks for the info guys tis much as i thought would be. hc


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## jimi43 (27 Jan 2010)

WOW..they're monsters HC! There is something so very industrial about that design don't you think?

I reckon they would make a superb donor...a little large for my immediate purpose but at least you have room for rivets and one hole! :wink: 

Did you see the S&S African Blackwood planes?

Lovely aren't the? African Blackwood does not perhaps have the same interesting grain that rosewood has though. Or perhaps the English Boxwood ones ( 8) ) - I saw a lump of unsawn boxwood on fleaBay the other day....

Jim


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## head clansman (27 Jan 2010)

hi jim 

african black wood nice, hmm but, doesn't have that grain does it like rose wood does, african black wood does have the weight to it though which i have to consider as well. you seen a lump of boxwood unsawn and never grabbed it :shock: how big was it :?: what sort of price was being asked for it is more important . I do like the boxwood not sure theres much weight to it , I never really associated boxwood to plane handles and totes , mind having said that it does look nice all be it unusual in those pics .

Still i'm going to play with them for a while , test out a few theories first and take a look about for some really nice timber . hc 

ps i still need to know what size thread the hole for the handle is if anyone know what it is would appreciate that piece of info please .


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## Racers (27 Jan 2010)

Hi, HC

Its probably English plane thread same as the frog screws.

pete


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## head clansman (27 Jan 2010)

hi pete 

brillaint thinking , never thought of that I'm offt down the workshop to try it . hc


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## head clansman (27 Jan 2010)

hi pete 

excellent spot on , brr it bloody cold in there , thank you, thats the first hurdle solved . hc :lol: :lol:


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## jimi43 (27 Jan 2010)

BOX WOOD

This wasn't the bit but it was similar.

Jim


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## head clansman (27 Jan 2010)

hi jim 

thanks jim interesting . hc


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## jimi43 (27 Jan 2010)

No problems mate.

I think that rosewood is the most beautiful contrast in those S&S planes...certainly against the brass and steel it is really stunning.

The engineering excellence of those examples makes the box wood look superb but rather insipid in comparison...but stunning none the less.

I am off to do some test fitting of a wedge. I think I will make a standalone one first to see how the plane feels with an iron and then think about the final element later.

Cheers mate

Jim


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## eoinsgaff (27 Jan 2010)

Head Clansman, 

forgive my ignorance but what kind of planes are those? Record by the colour and possibly the moulding under the 'knob' but I'm probably wrong or just not altogether right...

Eoin


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## head clansman (27 Jan 2010)

hi eion

there record T5 as seen here 


http://www.record-planes.com/record-no- ... jack-plane

hc :lol:


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## Benchwayze (27 Jan 2010)

jimi43":e7cxmbo1 said:


> BOX WOOD
> 
> This wasn't the bit but it was similar.
> 
> Jim



Thanks Jim.. I need some chisel handles! 

John


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## jimi43 (27 Jan 2010)

No problems John...I guess you and HC can fight over it!  :wink: 

Well...today I reckoned that it would be best if I actually put an iron in this baby and try it out on a bit of wood...but since I am going for a Bristol lever cap and since they are probably not made in this size and since the bits for my lathe are still "in the post"....I decided to build a full wedge to try the plane on some wood (just close your eyes on that bit!!)

I tried it on some sort of softy hardwood whose origin remains a mystery (probably a tad East of Dover) but it was to hand and I used the crappy bit of iron that was once made by Mr Stanley and is slightly...um...short...and after a bit of fiddling to get the blade right it produced some fine shavings...really smoothly with that telltale WHISH.....







The weight is more like a mini-smoother and aside from the fact that I had an ugly lump in my left hand...it felt really comfortable...the front infill is just right for the thumb but I might put a dimple in it....






I am going to leave it now and play with something else until the Isaac Greaves iron turns up...

I am however...really happy with the transformation...

Jim


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## jimi43 (28 Jan 2010)

Hey HC...check this Spiers plane out...

HERE

That body is almost perfect for your donor modification!

Jim


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## Vann (28 Jan 2010)

head clansman":2f74taec said:


> Anyone know what size thread the hole in the side is please :?: , I need to make a handle to suite , I think the chances of finding an old is very slim .


I found that the front knob off a Record 735 softboard plane fits the thread in the side of my T5. Unfortunately I'm away from home until next Monday night so I can't go out and measure it until then. And it's not on recordcollector's web-site either.

Cheers, Vann.


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## eoinsgaff (28 Jan 2010)

HC, thanks for that. I'll be doing a bit more research before I add one to the list. I'm very impressed with the look though. Thats one very solid looking plane and all the more desirable for it...


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## head clansman (28 Jan 2010)

hi jim 

it would be nice , but did you check out the bid price with eight hrs still to go , the two T5s that i have, one i'm going to cut down in length to do a 9" smoother with , the other will stay unaltered to use on a chute board , I have also just won a old dog in the starts ( still awaiting arrival it's a stanley no 605 bedrock that plane is what i am hoping to turn into something not unlike that spiers. 

john, no problems with the boxwood if your interested go ahead an bid I will not bid against you, good luck .

vann , it's ok problem solved . hc 8)


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## jimi43 (28 Jan 2010)

AH! No...I was just pointing out that the basic profile on that old Spiers is lovely and could easily be your T5 cut down...and chamfered.

Lovely old design those Spiers and Mathiesons

Jim


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## head clansman (28 Jan 2010)

hi jim 



> Lovely old design those Spiers and Mathiesons



they certainly are, but to get a real good one is getting really difficult nowadays and more to the point there bloody expensive, hence why I,m going the way I am to achieve some of them , one last plane to source now is I'm looking for a stanley bedrock 608c there is one on flebay at £250 over the top a bit, I think it has a buy it only price , but never mind plenty of time for that one .

Now I'm trying to source spiers/norris, lever cap & screw, blade adjuster, plus blade and chip breaker. anyone with any pointers/ideas on them would be most welcome . hc


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## jimi43 (28 Jan 2010)

> Now I'm trying to source spiers/norris, lever cap & screw, blade adjuster



HA! Arrived at the same point using different strategies...your one best I do believe!

The Greaves iron came today...I didn't check properly on the auction and it is blinkin' tapered isn't it!! DOH! But the width is correct so I can do some more playing around while I source a flat one. Nice bit of steel though! I will use it somewhere.

I want to put a Bristol lever cap on mine but not sure I would get one that small...it has to be a tad under 1 7/8" so I suppose I could file one down if it were close...let me know if you source the hardware and from where....

Jim


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## head clansman (28 Jan 2010)

hi jim




> I want to put a Bristol lever cap



Is that from bristol design in bristol :?: are they still in excistance :?: , If so any contact no, or website please would be appreciated . I tried contacting them a few yrs ago and spoke to someone who just wasn't interested in selling me some lever caps then, I ask for a brochure and never received it so shelved the entire idea back then . hc


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## jimi43 (28 Jan 2010)

Ah...ok I was using it as a term...should I have used "Norris" lever cap...

Well at least you know what I mean....

Apparently copies were made by a number of companies...a lot in the States...Shepherd Tools (now demised) is one I found...and someone suggested Ray Iles...I can't find it on their site.

I was right though...the Shepherd one was made 2 1/2" wide...and they used to mill the sides down to your spec to 2" after which they say the geometry looks wrong....I envisaged this before I researched it.

I have a drawing of such a cap and will probably make one by hand...I think it is pointless for my application to search for a baby one...I don't think such a thing exists. However for your one...I think SOMEONE must make one for old infill replacement parts somewhere...maybe someone here would know?

I had another play with my block plane today and it is so nice to shave with that I think for the time being while I do some more research I shall finish the wedge into something that actually LOOKS nice as well as works and use it like that for a while until I get a solution.

I am on the lookout for a suitable brass knurled bolt though...if anyone can suggest a source..

I received my countershaft assembly today for the ML1 so am playing with that for a while...maybe I could end up turning up my own screw!

Cheers

Jim


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## Philly (28 Jan 2010)

Jim
I can sort you out a knurled knob or even a brass lever cap if you need. Drop me a PM,
Philly


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## head clansman (28 Jan 2010)

hi jim 

what width lever cap are you after , any chance of seeing yor drawing. hc


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## head clansman (28 Jan 2010)

hi philly 

Don't know of any 2" lever cap do you preferable steel if possible .hc


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## AndyT (28 Jan 2010)

head clansman":2jzlxtpe said:


> hi jim
> 
> 
> 
> ...



They are definitely still in existence and still trading. I'm sure Charles Stirling would not disagree if I said that he has still not got around to the web though. His site is useful for two things only - to show you a glimpse of some of the shop, and to give you his phone number.

I'm sure he sells Norris adjusters, and he has a huge range of new and old blades of all sorts.

http://www.bristol-design.co.uk/


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## jimi43 (28 Jan 2010)

WOW! I only went outside to play with the Galoot and what happens!

Man...this place is astounding...Philly...that would be fantastic..I will PM you.

HC...this is the diagram:






CLICK ON PICTURE TO EXPAND TO FULL SIZE PDF

_Plans and diagram courtesy: Jim Yehle - Salt Lake City_

It is great to hear that Bristol are still in business...I seem to remember that info before in a thread....am I right? Excellent! 

I didn't really thing this little baby was worth going to all the trouble half way through as I began to think that the 110 was rather small for a first attempt but I have been out today with a fully fettled Isaac Greaves iron in it (all be it the wrong geometry!) and boy...it is transformed!

I have a small 60 1/2" and that has been good to me over the years but this is something else. The added weight and ergonomics make a heck of a difference.

Firstly I tried it with opposing grain on the spare piece of mahogany that John kindly gave me for this project...it still had bandsaw marks in it so it was an ideal test. When I used my No. 4 before it was not very good with the opposing grain and tearout was small but evident...

This little darling just WHISHES through both direction!!






Very fine lace like shavings...and the iron isn't even set right yet...

Then I moved on to end grain oak....a bit of a challenge I know....

I was amazed!






I did expect tear out on the opposite side as I didn't chamfer it but there was hardly any and the inset along the grain piece shows that it coped with both together....so onto along the grain with end grain inset again oak:






Slight grab over the end grain but nothing to worry about and the blade wasn't exactly set perfectly...I can't imagine how it would perform with a fine adjuster and a proper lever cap....






So...there you have it....in action...am I please...darn right I am!

I wanted to be sure that it was worth all the effort installing further hardware and I am more than happy it is!

Cheers guys for your help so far and encouragement....this is FUN!!

Jim


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## head clansman (28 Jan 2010)

jim

there you go , it coming together real nice cant waite till i see it all finished . hc


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## jimi43 (28 Jan 2010)

As I consider the options I thought I would do the "invalid" test and hit some pine...just because...and because I wanted to see those pretty ribbons...not disappointed....






Not too shabby for an old crappy Stanley ready for the bin....






I had to stop...I was filling up the workshop with shavings!!

 

Jim


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## jimi43 (31 Jan 2010)

I kept looking at that beautiful mahogany that John gave me turned by me into an ugly wedge...

I had my tax return to do...got half way through it and my brain fried so I decided to leave the rest until tomorrow and get some relaxing time in the shop...sod the weather!!!

Thought I would see how sharp those old chisels really were...mahogany isn't the most recommended wood to carve!!!






I was born in late March...can you guess what it is?






My first attempt at wood carving....just as a stop-gap before the hardware is sorted for the Norris type lever....but I had to find something to take my mind off the Inland Revenue!!!

Cheers guys and gals....

Jim


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (31 Jan 2010)

Hi Jim

Good progress so far. Looking forward to seeing it finished off with a decent lever cap. Philly will sort you out, I have no doubt. However, on reflection, his work is really very ordinary and, so, if you are of a mind to make your own, try http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMa...aps and Lever Cap Screws in the Backyard.html

I am not surprised at the performance you are getting. What bevel angle are you using and what is the angle of your bed?

My little smoother is one of the finest I have ever used - and I have used some really special planes (and own a few too). Secure bedding and a decent, thick blade work wonders!

Regards from Perth

Derek


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## Smudger (31 Jan 2010)

That's it. I'm giving up. Anyone got any stamps they want to swap? Fishing rods?

Derek, that is superb, both the concept and the execution.


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## Benchwayze (31 Jan 2010)

Jim, 

I knew that piece of timber had found the right hands. 

This project is coming along fine. Almost there... And for a first attempt at carving.. Very nice. This gives me the confidence to finish that barometer I started! A Ram BTW? 8) 

10/10 so far from me. 

Regards
John


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## Philly (31 Jan 2010)

Derek Cohen (Perth said:


> Philly will sort you out, I have no doubt. However, on reflection, his work is really very ordinary



Ooh, Derek - you tease :twisted: 
Philly


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## wizer (31 Jan 2010)

Superb work Jim, you are a natural, sir.


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## jimi43 (1 Feb 2010)

Cheers for the positive comments guys...it is really my first venture into this area and I have learned a lot that I would change next time but what gets me is the beautiful way this plane cuts.

Derek...I was aiming at the same 20 degree bed as found in the 110....







....so not that far out really.

I intend to use a very thick flat blade in the final version but this little Isaac is doing an admirable job...I just put a secondary bevel in it at 25 degrees so I have a cutting angle of about 46 degrees.






I was reading the "Smoothing Burr" thread and thought that too might be a challenge especially since I just received a rather nice rough piece of burr elm in the post this morning....

This is how the other side was when I received it and before planing:






....and it had no problem cutting very fine shavings with virtually no tearout...






I am really pleased with the way it performs so far...I need to create a thick blade...get the cap and install and see how it changes.

One thing is for sure...even now..it is a plane I want to pick up and use every time as a matter of choice....

Now....to watch you HC with the smoother/jack and see if I need to make another.... :wink: 

Jim

P.S. yes John....it is a RAM! 8)


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## head clansman (1 Feb 2010)

hi jim 

looking really good , watch me, ooh i don't know :lol: when i start you will be the first to know about it , been out this morning and sourced 4 7/16 th *2 " in number brass bolt for the lever caps, next try and find some nice 1/2 *2 1/2 brass flat bar for the lever caps enough to do three planes with and fine some grub screws as well for them to pivot on , maybe later in the week a trip to yandles i think they have a show on soon down there so might waite till then and kill two birds in one day .

Visited axminster on friday picked up some liberon lubrication wax and some new rasps for shaping handles on the planes when the time comes to start . 

I have a planned visit again soon to get replacement files of all description as most of mine are worn out so it's the right time to get replacements before I make a start .

nice piece of burr elm , what you gonna use it for :?: 


Cant waite till philly get the part done for you and see it all finished . hc


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## jimi43 (1 Feb 2010)

> nice piece of burr elm , what you gonna use it for



HA! I have ABSOLUTELY no idea!!!  

I just bought it because I loved the grain...I am a sucker for nice grain!

I can see it as something but not sure what yet...I am sure it will come...meanwhile it gets filed under "future project" - any ideas?

:wink: 

Jim


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## Evergreen (1 Feb 2010)

Jim

Your plane obviously performs well and with that "ram wedge", looks highly distinctive. No need to change it!

Just one suggestion - shouldn't you stamp your name on it somewhere? A hundred years from now, some tool collector might go crazy trying to work out who made it....


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## jimi43 (1 Feb 2010)

Evergreen":1gw79w2s said:


> Jim
> 
> Your plane obviously performs well and with that "ram wedge", looks highly distinctive. No need to change it!
> 
> Just one suggestion - shouldn't you stamp your name on it somewhere? A hundred years from now, some tool collector might go crazy trying to work out who made it....



Hi EG....thanks mate! I do feel that it does not warrant personalisation as a good part of it was made by my mate "Stanley"....!!

I am not entirely sure that the horns will survive 100 years either...they are an accident waiting to happen methinks!!

I was REALLY impressed by Philly Planes impression stamp though on his planes so maybe one day when I build one from scratch...(looks avidly at a Henley as a prototype) then maybe I will go that far!

It is taking great effort not to shave the hell out of everything I bump into!!

Jim


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## Mikey R (1 Feb 2010)

Jim, excelent plane! That carving blew me away :shock: 



jimi43":928cru2w said:


> I just bought it because I loved the grain...I am a sucker for nice grain!
> 
> I can see it as something but not sure what yet...I am sure it will come...meanwhile it gets filed under "future project" - any ideas?



is it large enough to be resawn into guitar facings? If not, maybe a solid body mandolin?  Maybe with some bluegrass style scrolls carved in?


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## jimi43 (1 Feb 2010)

Hi Mike

I have plans for a mandolin sometime in the future....but it is only 10" diameter so not sure it would even be big enough for that...I could perhaps bookmatch it though....

Jim


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## jimi43 (10 Feb 2010)

Hi Guys and Gals...just a quick update as I have received the "Norris Type" cap from our dear friend Philly...and it is looking good!
















I have removed the bar which was only an interference fit and drifted out easily....

Now...before I drill and tap the pivot points I need to think about the blade I am going to use...it's a bit tight so I can probably only go up to 1/8" (3.5mm) or I won't be able to fit the cap properly.

Obviously the wedge will need thicknessing and shaping too...but it's coming along nicely! Thanks Phil!!!

More later

Cheers

Jimi


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## head clansman (11 Feb 2010)

hi jim 

that will certainly add some more weight to it , should make it even better i would think , i'm looking forwards to seeing it with it's finished blade and all finished off . hc


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## jimi43 (13 Feb 2010)

Hi HC....yes it does! It has quite a bit of momentum!

I spent this afternoon working on the cap...getting rid of the mould marks and generally tarting it up a bit....






The action of the plane has, if anything...slightly improved...but what has improved is the lock on the iron...it is rock solid now and easy to adjust...






I think I will reduce the length of the knob thread...in order for me to be able to fit the pivot point, it is almost at its minimum...






I am waiting for some 01 steel but in the interim...and since the Isaac blade is about the same thickness, I simply reground it ....bevel up still but now to 30 degrees...

If anything it handles crazy grain even better...






So.....the next job is to shorten the grub screws....the left one is too long...panic moment as it nearly jammed in but I was patient and got it out...

So...ages yet before I get another day off so no updates for a while I guess....but it is coming along nicely!






I do like my "Ram" wedge though...I think I will incorporate that design in the thin wedge...and I am getting a two pound coin for the screw plate...I think that will be perfect but I need a new one...

Later guys and gals

Jim


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## woodsworth (13 Feb 2010)

That's quite a looker *whistles* 

Great job. The only fine work i'll be doing for the next little while is jack hammering and concrete work. Can't wait to get into the guitar shop for some fun stuff.


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## Mr Ed (13 Feb 2010)

Looks great

Why do you have a timber wedge and a lever cap? If you got rid of the timber the lever cap screw would not be too long surely?

Ed


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (13 Feb 2010)

Hi Jim

It's looking good!



> I do like my "Ram" wedge though...I think I will incorporate that design in the thin wedge...and I am getting a two pound coin for the screw plate...I think that will be perfect but I need a new one...



Keep in mind that the reason for the "wedge" with the lever cap is that it functions as a handle (rather than holding onto the blade). You will notice that mine has plenty of room for a palm. I would be cautious of carving it if this means that the comfort is removed.






One little tip - contact glue a strip of 240 grit W&D sandpaper under the hand hold to prevent it sliding around.

Regards from Perth

Derek


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## jimi43 (16 Feb 2010)

Just a quick update...

Thanks for the comments guys...and thanks for explaining the wedge design Derek...I have a long way to go to meet your standards but this has been fun!

Just to keep me happy...I am keeping the Ram design....I have grown to like it so it is now a signature of me for my tools...and this time I was a little more subtle on the carving...I am getting used to this whittling stuff now....






I have some stain matching to do, the new blade to make when I get the gauge steel to shape and then harden in the forge...temper in the oven without Annie catching me after Sunday lunch...and finally - mounting a two pound coin in the ram wedge under the screw to prevent the wedge splitting...about here....






The other reason for minimalising the ram horns is so that they don't snap off with age and it is more comfortable to handle now...






I am going to test drive it tomorrow before work....

More later guys and gals

Jim


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## head clansman (16 Feb 2010)

hi jim 

this is just a thought and IMO HOW about carving the same design into front handle , it's beginning to look the bees knees mate . hc


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## jimi43 (16 Feb 2010)

Hi HC......I was mullin' that over in my head last night too...

Is it too much?

Will it be comfortable?

How easy now it is glued in?

What about......just the wool curves....the four cuts on the top mirrored?

Jim


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## head clansman (16 Feb 2010)

hi jim

well as i said it was IMHO I think it would finish it off a treat, sort of get the carving to flow from end to end , if it's difficult to carve in situ perhaps make another front handle and place along side of it before you break out the first one and post some pics for others to view and comment on . hc

ps mirror ends yes a good idea .


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## jimi43 (18 Feb 2010)

Hi HC

I decided to take it one step at a time from this point...

First I cut down the old iron so that I got an idea of the handling once I make a parallel iron....and did more work on the staining and polishing of the infill....







Then I mirrored the wool from the back wedge to the front tote...






I think this works enough...I think it would be too much to mirror the whole ram's head at the front...this would create an inbalance....do you agree?

Now to find a 2009 two pound coin...






They do exist but the bank and post office don't have any....more searching!!

Derek...on your wedge...does the tip go all the way under the lever cap or does it fall short. For mine it is currently under the front lip of the lever cap along with the front of the iron but I think I would prefer to cut it back so that the tip of the cap presses down directly on the front of the iron...this makes more sense to me but before I cut it back, I need your opinion mate....

Cheers guys....

Jim


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## Philly (18 Feb 2010)

Love it, Jim! I'd leave the front bun as it is - looks perfect.
Good work!
Philly


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (18 Feb 2010)

> Derek...on your wedge...does the tip go all the way under the lever cap or does it fall short. For mine it is currently under the front lip of the lever cap along with the front of the iron but I think I would prefer to cut it back so that the tip of the cap presses down directly on the front of the iron...this makes more sense to me but before I cut it back, I need your opinion mate....



Hi Jim

I'll answer your PM here as well.

I had always planned to add a grip to my smoother. In the Mk I you can see that the gap between the lever cap and bed/blade is quite large. I used the plane sans grip for 4 years. It was OK but not always comfortable. Hence I added the grip.

The grip does not extend under the front of the lever cap, instead it stops short so that the lever cap presses down on the blade. So you can freely modify yours to do the same. 

I am curious to know how comfortable your grip is - it is very attractive and great workmanship, but practical? Perhaps you need to live with it for a while as I did mine ...

Regards from Perth

Derek


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## head clansman (18 Feb 2010)

hi jim

sorry i haven't replied earlier been changing broadband suppliers to day just got back on line, perfick mate perfick , leave it is as it is look good to me, remember when you do the hardening and tempering on your new blade i want a blow by blow detailed description with tons of pics , all that is new to me so it will be a big learning curve . nice one jim, well done take it to the show and be proud of it . hc


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## AndyT (18 Feb 2010)

I'm dead impressed with this. It's come so far - many people would have tossed that original body in the bin, but you've made something to be proud of and enjoy. Inspiring!


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## jimi43 (18 Feb 2010)

Cheers Phil and thanks again for the cap! It turned out fine!

I cut the wedge now "handle" back it it is much better...the clamp comes down further and holds the iron better...I will take a picture when I cut the recess for the coin...

Typically the two pound coin is 28mm and my Forstner bits are 24mm, 25mm and 30mm....so that will have to wait a while! The actual carving is now quite subtle and gentle and the arch of the palm cups over it anyway and it is very comfortable....much better than the two pointy horns! You live and learn!

Cheers HC! Much appreciated and thanks for your constant assistance too...it was a great help during the various stages to have someone interested in a parallel activity...and I certainly will be taking pictures of the forge and hardening...if only for the insurance company later!   

I think I will bring it along to the Staplehurst do....even as a novelty attraction!! There are many things I could have done better and this learning experience has set me up to want to do another one...trying next time to avoid some of the pitfalls. 

There is some fine tuning to be done...but most of that involves the mouth, front frog recess and will need the new blade to get it right....I want the blade thickness to be just enough to hit the front of the mouth with a tiny gap ultimately.

An adjuster may very well be another addition!

Cheers guys and gals...you have been a great help along the way!

Jim


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## jimi43 (18 Feb 2010)

AndyT":35e6hrj6 said:


> I'm dead impressed with this. It's come so far - many people would have tossed that original body in the bin, but you've made something to be proud of and enjoy. Inspiring!



Cheers Andy! Our posts passed in the ether!

I appreciate your comments greatly!

Jim


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (19 Feb 2010)

> I want the blade thickness to be just enough to hit the front of the mouth with a tiny gap ultimately.



Jim, for the next one, install the rear infill _after _you have the blade you will use. That way you can snug it up as close as you want.

Regards from Perth

Derek


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## jimi43 (19 Feb 2010)

Derek Cohen (Perth said:


> > I want the blade thickness to be just enough to hit the front of the mouth with a tiny gap ultimately.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yup Derek! One of my "hindsight" moments!!! The way I have worked it the rear mouth angle is a tiny amount higher than the rear infill and should bed down nicely. 

I am getting gauge steel the same thickness as the Isaac Greaves that I used to set the plane. The plan is to cut the same bevel and it should result in a tight mouth at the transparent shaving point.

Yes...the next one will not be so "reverse engineered"! :wink:  

Jim


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