# Replacement Axminster bandsaw inserts.



## ColeyS1 (28 Apr 2017)

Made these to replace the crappy plastic Axminster offering. Thanks to the person who posted their wooden version (I couldn't find it again to link to)





I planed up some 15mm oak. Set the circle jig up to the overall width and routed half the depth.




I used a pillar drill to transfer the centre hole to the other side, then set the jig to a smaller diameter (to form the rebate) and routed again.The circle jig works by just pivoting on a magnet so the drilled hole needed to be small enough to still hold a screw.




All it then needed was the slot cutting and a notch from the underside to fit in the table.
It took a couple hours, but I'm fairly sure these should outlast the poorly made overpriced Axminster offerings. I realise that sounds harsh, but think their plastic design is prone to failure-cause it's riddled with unecessary weakening holes and only 4mm thick.
Time will tell if these are any better.
Coley


----------



## Rorschach (28 Apr 2017)

They look good. I had the same trouble as you, I replaced mine with a solid aluminium version I made on the lathe, much better. Of course it also helps that I use a secondary table surface for a large part of my cutting.


----------



## Noel (28 Apr 2017)

Good job, something I need to do, again. 

Coley, think that was Sawdust=manglitter:


----------



## ColeyS1 (28 Apr 2017)

Cheers guys, thanks for that Noel. That's the one. Thanks sawdust/manglitter for originally posting !
Noel, does yours take 70mm inserts aswell ?
Cheers 
Coley 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Noel (28 Apr 2017)

Yep, 70 mm inserts. Always assumed the holes in the plastic one was for extraction, which is rubbish on my BB in any case.
Had to make a quick and dirty one recently, MDF and beer/cereal packaging:











Didn't last too long. Will make new ones similar to your hardwood examples but will also put a stop/lug somewhere to stop it rotating.
Incidentally, anymore info on the circle jig? Looks interesting.


----------



## ColeyS1 (28 Apr 2017)

I'll take a few more pics of the jig when I'm back in the shop. Have you got another pic of the entire hole, without the insert in? Your table looks to have a bumpier surface than mine- I'm wondering if it's different? 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Noel (28 Apr 2017)

ColeyS1":2smj5cz0 said:


> I'll take a few more pics of the jig when I'm back in the shop. Have you got another pic of the entire hole, without the insert in? Your table looks to have a bumpier surface than mine- I'm wondering if it's different?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk



No, imagine it's similar. Just the grinding marks are left rather than a polished surface, not noticeable in use.


----------



## ColeyS1 (28 Apr 2017)

This was the notch I mentioned. I just held the insert in position, then drew around the bump. That seems to do a good job of stopping it turning.
I took a few pics of the jig.




The base just bolts onto the 1/4 shank router.




When I was making it, I tried making it so it would hopefully last. I routed a groove for adjusting the diameter, then used some threaded inserts to allow the slidey bit to lock in place. 




The maximum it would do with a 10mm cutter is about 115mm radius, anything bigger I use a rod with a hole drilled in it.




With a 19mm cutter, it could in theory do a 15mm radius circle- can't imagine it'd be that fun though :lol: 
If you look at where the allen keys pointing you'll see how bolting the slidey bit is beginning to wear. Once the router was set up it didn't take alot longer to make a couple spare, haven't had to use them yet.




In the edge of the jig I store the countersunk magnet and screw. This seemed the easiest way to get the smallest repeatable circles. Just screw on the magnet, locate the jig, lift off and do some more. I think it took 3-4 hours to make the jig, but now making circles are no agro. 
Coley


----------



## Noel (2 May 2017)

Thanks for that, I'll be making a version of your circle cutter.
Regarding the inserts, I've no lug or recess to stop the insert from turning which is why they don't last too long, hadn't really occurred to me before as I cursed at the thing..., another school day. Time to get out the file. Thanks.


----------



## ColeyS1 (2 May 2017)

Could you possibly drill a hole in the table (in the rebatey bit) then hammer a panel pin in the insert to prevent it turning ? 
Mine was a fairly snug fit. I had to rotate it a couple times on 120 grit so I could get it to go in easily. 
The jig will definitely come in handy Noel  
Coley


----------



## sunnybob (2 May 2017)

The holes are for dust extraction, must get very messy on the table top without any.


----------



## Noel (2 May 2017)

ColeyS1":3bmg99b2 said:


> Could you possibly drill a hole in the table (in the rebatey bit) then hammer a panel pin in the insert to prevent it turning ?
> Mine was a fairly snug fit. I had to rotate it a couple times on 120 grit so I could get it to go in easily.
> The jig will definitely come in handy Noel
> Coley



Yep, could do that although always reluctant drilling and putting any pressure on the edge of thin CI, such brittle stuff. I had in mind to file a small recess (opposite of lug? Maybe a notch?) in the rebatey bit and set a small lug/screw/bar/grub or whatever into the lower edge of my next insert. Will report back.


----------



## John Brown (3 May 2017)

Inspired by this thread, I set out to make a couple for my Inca. I made a simple jig for my little Bosch router, I glued some 2mm MDF(2mm is the depth of the outer rebate) to a scrap of 4mm ply that should have been big enough for two. However, I totally screwed up the first one because I, for some reason, measured from the centre of the pivot pin to the centre of the cutter! The second one turned out well. A bit of light sanding and it's a good push fit(no rotation problems). I have since realised that I need to cut a wider slot, though, as I currently have a zero clearance but zero dust clearance situation! A wider slot will also be needed if I want to tilt the table. Live and learn...


----------



## John Brown (3 May 2017)

Re. the magnet, are you saying that you screw the magnet to the workpiece, and you have a corresponding hole in your jig? If so, why a magnet? Or is it just a convenient smooth sided countersunk thing you had to hand?
I used a 5 mm countersunk screw projecting from the jig, but had the devil's own job find the hole with it!

Oh, and I used the fence rods to attach my jig.


----------



## ColeyS1 (3 May 2017)

John Brown":32l78ecn said:


> Re. the magnet, are you saying that you screw the magnet to the workpiece, and you have a corresponding hole in your jig? If so, why a magnet? Or is it just a convenient smooth sided countersunk thing you had to hand?
> I used a 5 mm countersunk screw projecting from the jig, but had the devil's own job find the hole with it!
> 
> Oh, and I used the fence rods to attach my jig.



Yeah exactly that John. My way of thinking was a smooth hole stood less chance of wearing away the corresponding hole in the jig. Lining up the jig to sit over the magnet does take a bit of wiggling about though. One of the perks is a 2.4mm gauge screw holds the magnet in place, so only a teeny tiny hole is required in the workpiece.
Cheers
Coley


----------



## ColeyS1 (3 May 2017)

John Brown":3ctlousf said:


> Inspired by this thread, I set out to make a couple for my Inca. I made a simple jig for my little Bosch router, I glued some 2mm MDF(2mm is the depth of the outer rebate) to a scrap of 4mm ply that should have been big enough for two. However, I totally screwed up the first one because I, for some reason, measured from the centre of the pivot pin to the centre of the cutter! The second one turned out well. A bit of light sanding and it's a good push fit(no rotation problems). I have since realised that I need to cut a wider slot, though, as I currently have a zero clearance but zero dust clearance situation! A wider slot will also be needed if I want to tilt the table. Live and learn...


Yeah it's difficult knowing what size slot to have. I opted for bigger, it's only cutting wedges I'd have to be extra cautious that one didn't get wedged :lol:


----------



## John Brown (3 May 2017)

ColeyS1":31c51mf5 said:


> John Brown":31c51mf5 said:
> 
> 
> > Re. the magnet, are you saying that you screw the magnet to the workpiece, and you have a corresponding hole in your jig? If so, why a magnet? Or is it just a convenient smooth sided countersunk thing you had to hand?
> ...


I see. Nice idea. I have a few countersunk magnets floating around, I might just do that


----------



## Mainman (26 Feb 2018)

Hi Coley
I like the look of these inserts. My plastic one has just exploded. Would you be interested in selling a couple.
regards
Bernard


----------



## defsdoor (27 Feb 2018)

I have a RP BS350 and have designed and 3d printed some replacement inserts -

https://cad.onshape.com/documents/30af7 ... ec02f6544e






Printed with the top side on the print bed gives a great smooth finish -


----------



## ColeyS1 (27 Feb 2018)

Mainman":3avkvvz1 said:


> Hi Coley
> I like the look of these inserts. My plastic one has just exploded. Would you be interested in selling a couple.
> regards
> Bernard


Hello Bernard. I've given away quite a lot already so really need to hang on to the remaining few I have left.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Mainman (28 Feb 2018)

Ok Mate Thanks for the reply.


----------

