# My Router Table Build



## Chems (19 Nov 2008)




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## Dave S (20 Nov 2008)

Watching with much interest - the same insert arrived in my postbag yesterday, and I also have the large Triton to fit to it.  

You're ahead of me, though - I won't be in a position to plan mine until next year.

IIRC the 4 screws you mention are imperial - I think I have the relevant thread with size and sources bookmarked at home. WIll post again this evening.

Dave


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## Chems (20 Nov 2008)

Thanks Dave, look forward to hearing what you've got.

And is it just me or is this a very new addition to the Axminster cat, I checked my early 2008 catalogue and it has no sign of this router plate in it. Looks like an amazing bit of kit.


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## Dave S (20 Nov 2008)

It's in my catalogue - may be a different issue to yours. Will check when I get home. The description in the catalogue says that there are guides underneath the plate for drilling the holes, but there are none on mine. Not even any concentric circles as there were on my existing insert.

Dave


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## wizer (20 Nov 2008)

It's new for 2009. I have the Tilgear one and it's different to that one.


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## Chems (20 Nov 2008)

I name only, seems to have all the same features as far as I can tell, starting pin, insert rings, leveling grub screws, earth magnets to hold the plate. Same price too!


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## Chems (20 Nov 2008)

Dave S":1tiu6yc3 said:


> It's in my catalogue - may be a different issue to yours. Will check when I get home. The description in the catalogue says that there are guides underneath the plate for drilling the holes, but there are none on mine. Not even any concentric circles as there were on my existing insert.
> 
> Dave



Mine either, but its not a difficult job really to do it. You get 4 evenly spaced holes on the triton base. What I will do is score a diagonal line from each corner to corner then measure the distance and get my hole points. Should be fairly easy. . . . . .


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## wizer (20 Nov 2008)

Chems":3fds7jqz said:


> I name only, seems to have all the same features as far as I can tell, starting pin, insert rings, leveling grub screws, earth magnets to hold the plate. Same price too!



No it's different. Inserts are different, drill positions are different


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## Dave S (20 Nov 2008)

Are the magnets supposed to go underneath the grub screws?

I found the thread about screw sizes which is here.

As suggested in the thread, I removed the spring-loaded bolts which normally are used to attach the fence and used countersunk bolts of the same thread to attach the router to a old plastic insert. It works fine, and I think there is enough thickness in this plate to safely do the same again.

Dave


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## Chems (21 Nov 2008)

I think the magnets just go anywhere in the corners to stop the plate lifting out to easily, sink them into a little hole in the cut out for the plate. Marked up the holes today then read your link so I will go with the 2 bolt option as I can use the bolts provided with the router no messing about then.


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## Chems (21 Nov 2008)

wizer":1vn79i93 said:


> Chems":1vn79i93 said:
> 
> 
> > I name only, seems to have all the same features as far as I can tell, starting pin, insert rings, leveling grub screws, earth magnets to hold the plate. Same price too!
> ...



No it isn't its pretty much exactly the same bar a few holes. To be honest I have no idea what the other holes are for other than for the starter pin. Anyone shed any light? Raiser devices or something?


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## wizer (21 Nov 2008)

The fact that the holes are in a _different _configuration and the inserts are a _different _designs, it pretty much a good sign that it's a _different _product, probably of a _different _manufacturer ?

Surely?


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## Chems (21 Nov 2008)

Yes yes of course its a different design, I'm just saying that its an almost exact copy of the Tilgear one wouldn't you say?


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## wizer (21 Nov 2008)

It's different for the reasons I stated, you seemed to imply that it was a clone manufactured by the same company.


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## Chems (22 Nov 2008)




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## Derek Willis. (24 Nov 2008)

I don't understand why you would need magnets and adjusting screws, my first plate in my table, close to 17 years old now was alloy, it lay flat with no movement at all, this year I bought a plate from axminster, their basic Tufnol plate, that lays flush with the top and does not need any adjusting or holding down, this one has been in constant use for about 9 months now, very satisfactory, I only changed because I couldn't fit my new raised panel cutter set into the alloy one.
Derek.


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## Chems (24 Nov 2008)

I guess the magnets are just to stop you lifting it out if your changing bits or something in-advertantly. And the screws are encase you done level the rebate for the plate perfectly and can then adjust the heights in the corners to compensate.


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## Derek Willis. (24 Nov 2008)

Probably what I thought, all seems very unneccessary, one would only use a heavy duty router in a table, so the weight is more than enough to keep it down, and by routing out the top accurately, the plate must fit and stay flush.
Derek.


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## Chems (1 Dec 2008)




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## OPJ (2 Dec 2008)

The magnets with the Tilgear and Axminster plates are also there to prevent the grub screws from digging in to and wearing the MDF. :wink:


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## Chems (2 Dec 2008)

Ahh i see, thanks for that opj.

On second look thats a terrible picture quality I've posted there.

Next job for me is to start making a template to cut the router insert plate out of the top. Any bright ideas?


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## Paul Chapman (2 Dec 2008)

Chems":yop4vjly said:


> Next job for me is to start making a template to cut the router insert plate out of the top. Any bright ideas?



Ron Fox covers all this stuff in his Router Hints and Tips http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/rou ... _tips.html

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Shultzy (2 Dec 2008)

Chems":2c75ospo said:


> Next job for me is to start making a template to cut the router insert plate out of the top. Any bright ideas?



I downloaded a 6-step Router Plate Installation pdf from ShopNotes Online Extra

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/100/ext ... tallation/


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## Chems (2 Dec 2008)

Thanks Paul and Shultzy I'll get reading!


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## Chems (8 Dec 2008)




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## davin (8 Dec 2008)

Just about to order a table insert myself.
I am sure that Axminster used to sell cast router fences for around £30.
But I couldnt find any on the website - any ideas where I could find one?
If not I will do the same as you.
PS have just been given a roll of Grey Formica type laminate, (called polyrey)
Anyone in the East Sussex area want a piece for a router top, you are welcome.


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## Chems (8 Dec 2008)

I haven't seen one in the axminster catalog but Rutlands do some versions but they are all very expensive:

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/p...er&transid=&search_text=route+fence&submit=Go

I wouldn't buy one. A bit of MDF is all you need!


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## davin (8 Dec 2008)

The fence I remember seeing had a take off for extraction and grooves so you could add your own fence adjustment.
Normally I would be far too mean to to splash out on something like this. 
But I am sure it wasnt too expensive


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## OPJ (9 Dec 2008)

Looking good, Chems.  Your plate appears to have a much tighter fit than mine did - I measured the offset and added it all round, instead of halving it!  But, I managed to rip some very thin strips of scrap on my bandsaw and that soon fixed it. :wink:


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## Chems (9 Dec 2008)

Ah well I sort of used my own method.

I got the plate in place then use 2 long strips of 1inch by half inch strips of pine and clamped these to the long sides. I then cut 2 smaller lengths to size and fitted this in snuggly to the short sides. Marked it all, drilled and screwed it together. Clamped it back on with little squares of plywood all over to increase the height. Then used my new upper bearing guided cutter which I got in the B&Q sale last weekend to just run around the shape. Worked perfectly. And this plate is ideal because the corner radius' are exactly the size of a 1/4 straight router bit.


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## Chems (28 Dec 2008)




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## John. B (30 Dec 2008)

Chems that's a nice table you are building. 
It's a pity I've come on to this thread late because I have the big Triton setup in a Trend craftsman table and I had to make my own mounting plate, and could have thrown in some advice.
I notice in your last pic the Router is mounted square to the table axis.
IMO it would have been better to mount the router so that as you look at from the front it looks half turned with the plunge wheel on the left and the starter switch on the right.
The reason being, to change bits, you wind the plunge fully up when it automatically locks, but to do that you have to release the starter switch locking door. It seems that the way you have mounted it you will have to fumble around the back to operate the switch door.
You will also need a good NVR switch (axminster £25.00) which will obviate fiddling with that door until you change cutting bits.
I hope I have not been too presumtious,












John. B


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## OPJ (30 Dec 2008)

Looking good, Chems. Are you going to add a T-track or anything?


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## Chems (30 Dec 2008)

I didn't know that about the switch, its ok thou I'll just have to reach around. 

Going to order some t-track as soon as the post is back to normal.


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## Mr Ed (31 Dec 2008)

Although an NVR switch is a good idea, for both convenience and safety, I have always managed without. In fact, it becomes second nature to reach under the table to the exact position where the switch is without looking after a while.

Cheers, Ed


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## motownmartin (31 Dec 2008)

I find the NVR switch very useful as I plug both the router and the dust extractor into the same switch so when I switch on the Router, the extractor comes on at the same time.


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## Chems (31 Dec 2008)

EdSutton":27jaz8hy said:


> Although an NVR switch is a good idea, for both convenience and safety, I have always managed without. In fact, it becomes second nature to reach under the table to the exact position where the switch is without looking after a while.
> 
> Cheers, Ed



I had a similar set up on my last table, and found sometimes you were a bit stuck if you needed to turn the machine off with one hand. You know if youve done a plunged rebate or such and need to stop where it is and dont fancy lifting the workpiece off.


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## Mr Ed (31 Dec 2008)

Well even with an NVR switch you still need a spare hand to switch it off, unless you have other hidden talents!

Cheers, Ed


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## Derek Willis. (31 Dec 2008)

Use an external NVR switch, dealing with a double socket, both the router and the extractor are plugged in and left switched on so that at the drop of the switch they both start without fishing around for them.
Derek.


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## Chems (31 Dec 2008)

I meant it was to difficult to reach and keep a hand on the table. An NVR can be right near your knee or right on the table edge in easy reach as it should be.

I've ordered a load of T-Track from Rutlands plus there 100mm dust extraction system on offer for £40, ended up spending £101  

I got:

100mm To 63mm Reducer
24" T-Track - 3/4" Wide
T Track Bolt Kit - For 3/4" Wide Track x 2
Super Dust Extraction Kit
32" T Track - 3/4" Wide

The 24" bits will be cut in half for the runners for the fence. The 32" again cut in half on for the mitre slot and one set into the fence front. I also got for Christmas from a mate a 63mm Router Fence extraction port so I've got all I need.

I will probably use the vacuum plugged directly into the router under the table and the 63mm hose into the 100mm hose to my main dust extractor. Looking forward to seting up my table saw with proper dust extraction as well. It all just falls out of the the bottom of it currently.


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## Chems (7 Jan 2009)




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## Chems (7 Jan 2009)




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## Chems (2 Mar 2009)




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## Imperial (2 Mar 2009)

What sort of saving do you think you've made over buying one complete? I don't mean this as a criticism, just seems like a lot of work and expense buying inserts and t track etc? as opposed to buying the Dakota / Rutlands ready made for £99. I'm hoping to be going on a buying splurge soon and can't decide wether to buy a Spindle Moulder or stick to Router and Router table. Have used a SM with the attachment to take router bits and this worked great. I've since been told that the speed is too slow in SM's for this purpose, but I did not find it to be! The Fox SM will shortly be available which has this option and is about the same price as a dedicated Router with High quality Table but with adavantages like sliding cast iron tables and the ability to rebate tenons etc. 

Sorry if these comments are a little off the thread, your work in making the table and posting pictures is much appreciated as it gives us all the chance to see the different methods and approaches to the problems of making one :wink:


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## John. B (2 Mar 2009)

Definately looking good. Keep the pics coming.
As a thought  .you could have turned a small disc to slide fit in the centre then with a compass,
scribe a series of circles on the underside to centralise the router for drillig the mounting holes. :lol:

John. B


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## Chems (2 Mar 2009)

Thanks John, it was very difficult to get it central and I only managed it after 2 attempts and its still about 1mm off central but the Collete just rises through the smallest hole so its ok. 


That's a very interesting point BlooNose. 

If you took into consideration the cost of the router as well which is Triton and retails for around the £200 mark then it starts to make sense to buy the fox from Rutlands.

The T-Track and bits cost me around £40, the MDF for the edges and the top no more than £15, the pine for the main support no more than £10. Thats all the wood I've used. Then ontop of that I bought the fireback which was expensive at £30. £10 for Rutlands router fence 60mm dust extraction point. So whats that:

£105 plus £200 for Triton = £305 

I still probably have to spend another 30 or so on making the draws and cupboards below, hinges and draw runners if I use any. 

Which brings it to = £335

Throw in an extra £64 and you have the fox spindle moulder. 

I did enjoy making it and I did get the router for £98 and the cost is spread out over months and its built exactly how I want it which are the plus'.


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## Imperial (3 Mar 2009)

Enjoyment is what its all about and bet you learned a lot too! However time is money if its not a hobby and the labour cost of making it would up that price again.
Still glad you've posted all the info and pictures :wink:


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## Derek Willis. (3 Mar 2009)

I know it's too late now, but, Trend do a centering dvice, shown here. Just drop it into your plate, and then fix it in your router, always central.
derek.


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