# Kity 636 planer/thicknesser manual & parts list?



## Teddy

I've got an old Kity 636 planer/thicknesser which seems to be in perfect condition as far as I can tell.
It's been stood for a few years and I don't want to risk running it until I have properly checked it over, as I don't want to cause any damage to it.
I've also never used this type of machine before and I don't want to make any 'dumb' mistakes with it!! 
I wonder if anyone might be able to help me by letting me know how I can get hold of a copy of the operator and parts manual for this machine please?
Thanks very much guys - I would be very grateful for any help!


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## marcros

somebody may well have one on here that they could scan for you. If not, NMA are very helpful, and have some of the kity parts breakdowns and manuals. If they don't, you may have to make do with as close as they have.


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## MickCheese

It's available to download from here where someone has kindly posted it.

If it is anything like my Kity 439 manual then it's rubbish!

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/kity-636-planer-thicknesser-t38253.html

Mick


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## Teddy

Thanks Marcos & Mick,
The reply I got already from NMA wasn't much help:- "Sorry but there are no manuals or parts drawings for this model anymore. The only parts available are the 710 x 6mm drive belt - nothing else".
But they did suggest that some of the members on this site may have old copies of the manual that they might be prepared to copy for me.
I need to follow up a few threads on here as I see that other guys were trying to hunt down the manual about a year ago.
I think that, used properly, the Kity 636 planer/thicknesser is a pretty good machine so I really need the manual to ensure I get it set up correctly! :? :?


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## MickCheese

I think you misunderstood.

The manual is here, as in click here.

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/f...id=12014&sid=c4dbe2e15c9cb99a60650d485e4b493b

Mick


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## Teddy

Thanks Mick - but that link is for the modern 'new' kity 2636 machine and isn't the one I'm after............


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## Rob Platt

i presume you`re after what was the 3 636 with cast alloy tables manual. i spent years trying to get one and was never successful. got one similar to that one currently available and had to workout anything that was not in the manual for myself. good luck. it is a good machine or at least i think it is.
all the best
rob


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## Teddy

Yes Rob - that's right
Mine is the one with the cast alloy tables - and with the handwheel missing. Strange that a missing handwheel seems to be a 'common' problem with this machine as well.
Maybe there's a forgotten storeroom somewhere in France (or somewhere in 'tool heaven') stuffed floor to ceiling with manuals, handwheels and all the other spare parts for the Kity 636!
All I have to do is find it!
Cheers


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## Argus

.


I have a manual in PDF if you care to pm your e mail.

Not a hell of a lot in it, but better than nowt.



.


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## MickCheese

Teddy":2h16hm20 said:


> Thanks Mick - but that link is for the modern 'new' kity 2636 machine and isn't the one I'm after............



Sorry

Should have looked more closely.

Mick


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## Teddy

MANY THANKS TO ARGOS AND TO STEVE AND TO ALL WHO OFFERED TO HELP!

I now have the manual and, from a quick glance, it'll enable me to check the machine over and start to use it correctly. Terrific - I'm so pleased!

I only joined the club yesterday - what a result!!

Thanks again guys!!


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## Mrjung69

Hi, I also have the kity 3636 model and if possible would like a copy of the manual. I have one question, can anyone tell me how the sawdust/shaving extraction unit fits to the body


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## Steve Maskery

Mrjung69":1n1t54fe said:


> Hi, I also have the kity 3636 model and if possible would like a copy of the manual. I have one question, can anyone tell me how the sawdust/shaving extraction unit fits to the body



The hood should come with a bit of bent wire. There is no other way to describe it. Sophisticated it isn't. The ends of said coathanger fit into holes on the inside of the machine. The hood can then be swung, when the thicknessing table is as far down as it will go, from sitting below to collect the chippings when planing, to being over the top of the blade to collect the chippings when thicknessing.

The Kity isn't a bad little machine, and there were some minor improvements, mainly to the fence and the DX hood, when it was relaunched as the 637. You just have to fettle the darn things.

Steve, who has a nicely-fettled 637 after having a very unfettled 636.


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## Argus

Mrjung69":s0ouq9pw said:


> Hi, I also have the kity 3636 model and if possible would like a copy of the manual. I have one question, can anyone tell me how the sawdust/shaving extraction unit fits to the body




.

As Steve said .... super-duper sophisticated bit of bent wire rod...........
If you pm your e mail I'll send a copy of the manual - (PDF)


.


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## Teddy

Hi guys, I haven't got the sawdust/shavings extraction funnel with my machine and was hoping to fabricate one myself.
I'm encouraged now 'cos my DIY skills certainly run to making a bent bit of wire - all I need now is a drawing & dimensions for the funnel so I can make that!
Can anyone help me with this info / or does anyone know if there is an off the shelf funnel that I can buy?
Cheers chaps!!


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## Steve Maskery

Well if you are a metalman and are making your own from scratch, the one for the 637 is MUCH better than that for the 636.
I'd take measurements and pics for you, but, although I own one, I can't get at it at the mo, as I'm between workshops (I hope!).
S


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## Teddy

Thanks Steve - that would be great!
Am quite happy to wait until you've got the opportunity and the time to let me have the info.
....and your recommendation for the 637 design as being better is precisely the guidance I was hoping for - so I'll sit tight and wait to hear from you.
(Hope you get into a workshop soon before the withdrawal symptoms really get to you!)


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## Steve Maskery

I fear you will wait some time. It's already been in store for 12 months and like to be so for the foreseeable future. And yes, it is driving me nuts.
S


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## Steve Maskery

Teddy
I've found the manual, such as it is, for the 637. It shows the two different positions of the DX hopper. There are no dimensions or anything like that, but it does show clearly what it looks like and you can tell, just about, where the pivot point is.
If you email me your address I'll post it to you.
S


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## stanwoods

Hi I have a Kity 3 636 - I wonder if Argus  could email me his pdf version of the manual please.


Would be most grateful.

Kind regards

Stan Woods
Aberdare South Wales


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## Argus

.


Yes, Stan, but you'll need to add a few more posts in order to PM your e mail address to me.

Check what the rules say about PMs.

All best


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## stanwoods

Many thanks Argus - I will check the rules

kind regards

Stan Woods


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## Argus

.


There's a minimum number of posts to qualify for PMs in order to beat spammers.
Looking at the rules, it seems to be 3 posts. 

.


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## Bonsaisid

I too have the kity 3636 planer thicknesser.
I would love a copy of the manual. can anybody email me or PM?
I think I need to adjust the infeed table for level, but cant find anything to adjust. any ideas?


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## Argus

.

With 3 posts up, you should be able to PM. If so – send me your e mail privately for a PDF manual (about1 mb).

The in-feed table height to the cutters is adjustable by a knob on the end; the setting is visible on a rudimentary side-scale. It has a pair of angled brackets with some small amount of adjustment on the bolts, but will only move relative to the scale; check the zero mark on the scale with the table height just level with the top of the blades and forget it. 

The out feed is locked in use, but can be adjusted up and down by the knurled knob below the left side, beside the swivel hinge. It has an allen key in the centre to lock its position relative to the in-feed table. When it is set and locked, you adjust the cutter height from this.

That’s the easy bit. Assuming that the tables are flat (flat enough for purpose, at least) and level with a straight edge laid across both you should have a working planer, good enough to do what it’s designed to do.

If you really need to check that the tables both aligned in height and are on the same plane, you need to check them with a bevel-box, but don’t expect absolute accuracy in alignment - you may need to do a bit of shimming.......

Hope this helps.


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## Bonsaisid

Attached are pics of my dust extractor.


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## idave

Hi, Ive just been given a sorry looking 3636 and am after a manual if anyone can help, It seems that the tables are nowhere near parallel with each other and the cutter block so am i right in thinking that the only way to true them up is to try and shim them up ??


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## Steve Maskery

Well shim up or file down the round thingies onto which the outfeed table locks down.
Mine was the same. Not awful but not right either. But an hour or so spent with a file got it singing.
S


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## powertools

The wife buys both cat litter and rice in plastic containers that look like over size oil cans and they have a screw top about the same size as my dust extractor hose. I cut off the top 1/3rd of the empty ones and use them as hoods for the planer and saw.


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## Muswell

idave":1k8jxxjq said:


> Hi, Ive just been given a sorry looking 3636 and am after a manual if anyone can help, It seems that the tables are nowhere near parallel with each other and the cutter block so am i right in thinking that the only way to true them up is to try and shim them up ??



The manual does not give a lot of info. except that the exit table should be 1mm above the body of the block. The only adjustments are the knob on the end of the entry table and the knob on the hinge assembly, which is locked with a screw in the end. I think this adjusts the height of the hinge but I have never had to touch it. Other than that I think you are stuck with shims.


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## Steve Maskery

Muswell":dkbjf3c8 said:


> ...and the knob on the hinge assembly, which is locked with a screw in the end. I think this adjusts the height of the hinge but I have never had to touch it.



That knob adjusts the height of the outfeed table WRT the cutter block. If the blades are set properly you should never need to adjust it, but it is useful if you have the blades set well WRT each other, but not at quite the right height. If they are not at the right height, you will either a) catch the wood on the outfeed table or b) get snipe as the workpiece falls onto the outfeed table as its leaves the infeed table. In both cases you will also get a curved, rather than a flat planed surface, also I can never work out which case gives a concave cut and which a convex one.
S


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## Muswell

So does it lift the table up keeping it parallel to the cutter block? Just curious, I am careful to set the blades accurately.


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## Steve Maskery

Muswell":p9o3ez75 said:


> So does it lift the table up keeping it parallel to the cutter block? Just curious, I am careful to set the blades accurately.


Yes (assuming it is parallel to the cutter block in the first place).
S


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## Muswell

Thanks


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## idave

So if the out feed table is supposed to be 1mm above the cutter block, that would mean that the knives should be a few thou short of that ?? Is there any reference in the manual for the ideal knife projection from the cutter block as surely this should be the starting point to setting the whole table up?? But this is my first pt and I have not got any experience on these machines !


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## Muswell

You rotate the cutter block so a knife is at its highest point. You place a piece of hardwood at each end of the knife and resting on the exit table. You press the knives down with the wood and tighten the screws. The you check by placing a piece of wood with a mark on it on top of the exit table and cutterblock. You rotate the cutterblock half a turn clockwise. The wood should have moved 2 to 3mm,the same at each end. Repeat for the other cutter. It gets quicker with practice. Be careful not to lose tge springs. I can scan the manual and send it when you have 3 posts to your name.

John


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## idave

ok get it, but because the outfeed table is adjustable in height with reference to the cutter block, do i need to set it 1mm above the cutter block, then set the knives height as described ?? . The only concern with this procedure is that if the outfeed table is not exactly parallel with the cutter block when setting the knives, the block to knives allignment could be out a little (to match the outfeed table) and therefore cut a slight "wedge" shape on the thicknesser table, my theory is that the only thing that I have on this machine that is straight and round is the cutter block and i must reference every thing off this. maybe my theory is wrong, but just want help and to learn from u guys who have experience in setting these up!.


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## Muswell

idave":1nqjuqaq said:


> ok get it, but because the outfeed table is adjustable in height with reference to the cutter block, do i need to set it 1mm above the cutter block, then set the knives height as described ?? .
> The only concern with this procedure is that if the outfeed table is not exactly parallel with the cutter block when setting the knives, the block to knives allignment could be out a little (to match the outfeed table) and therefore cut a slight "wedge" shape on the thicknesser table, my theory is that the only thing that I have on this machine that is straight and round is the cutter block and i must reference every thing off this. maybe my theory is wrong, but just want help and to learn from u guys who have experience in setting these up!.



Yes, you set the table 1mm above the block then set the blades.

You are correct, everything is with reference to the cutter block.


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## idave

Thanks all, with your help I now feel far more confident in my ability to set the tables and cutter knives up correctly, and I can now start thinking how to;A- make a new infeed height adjuster knob(all the plastic is missing from it), B-weld up or re-manufacture the broken alloy bracket that holds the safety guard to the outfeed table and C-make a new fence as I don't have one. It gives me confidence that there are people out there still using these pt's that are still performing well.


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## ColeyS1

Dave, have you got any pictures you can put up of your planer ?


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## idave

No, not as yet, the pt is stuck in a corner of a shed some 200 miles away at the moment , was planning to bring it home soon but I have more facilities there than here (Metalworking lathe,welding, etc) to work on it. Will be up there in the next couple of weeks and I'll take some picks (that'll make you laugh!) and attempt to post them.


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## ColeyS1

A while ago my mate said he knew some one who was chucking out a couple planers. When I got there they were left out side in the rain 









Turns out one of them was a kity 637 that had completely chewed the motor shaft and also had mangled all the cogs. I didn't need another planer so just took apart all the pieces to use for bits. Only had a quick look but cant see a fence- I'll have a better look tonight idave :wink: the other planer left outside was a axminster thicknesser. All that needed was 4 new cogs to operate the rise and fall- only cost a tenner for the cogs


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## Teddy

Hi Coley,
I don't suppose you (or anyone else reading this?) has got a spare sawdust/shavings extraction funnel for the 636 or 637?
I've got the 636 but no funnel and whilst I could possibly make one, like most people, my problem is time with loads of other more productive and fun stuff to do....!
Cheers


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## idave

Thanks coley, much apreciated.


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## ColeyS1

Teddy I remember seeing the funnel bit but just found it fitted to chop saw extraction 




Ive got this part it was attached to




Dave I've had a look at found these which might do the job




Not sure if that funny looking thing on top the paint tin is the bracket you speak of ?


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## idave

Looks good!, although the fence is different to a 3636, I think its very similar to the 2636. I recon if Ground my existing bracketry off, that would bolt on a peach. The probability is quite high that the infeed table height adjuster has the same spline drive as well! The little alloy bracket that has broken, about 1"x2", that bolts to the side of the outfeed table, is all part of the arm and safety guard that hangs over the cutter block.


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## Teddy

Hi Coley
Your middle photo looks to me like the sawdust/shavings extraction hood part which I might be able to adapt to fit my 636.
If so (and if you have no further use for it) would you be willing to part with it for a fee?
Thanks very much....


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## ColeyS1

Teddy":3qzg4c1t said:


> Hi Coley
> Your middle photo looks to me like the sawdust/shavings extraction hood part which I might be able to adapt to fit my 636.
> If so (and if you have no further use for it) would you be willing to part with it for a fee?
> Thanks very much....


If you pm me you address I'll get a quote for posting. Its such a random shape that I doubt I'll ever adapt it for anything


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## ColeyS1

Teddy, I posted the bit you requested yesterday by the cheapest slowest method I could find ;-)- hope it arrives before the rest of it rusts out :lol:

idave, ive moved the bits from work to the boot of my car - I'll drop them off when im passing


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## Teddy

Hi Coley - That's fantastic! - Thanks very much, it's really decent of you - I'll let you know how it fits up when I get it.
Cheers
Teddy


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## jimporter

Do you have any parts of the Kity left?


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## Chrisp

Morning guys,
I know this is an old thread but I picked a 636 up yesterday, and would be interested in a copy of the manual that has been shared around if someone could oblige 
Regards, 
Chris.


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## Argus

Send me a PM with your details - I should be able to oblige.


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## Chrisp

Many thanks Argus, pm sent.


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## Mainman

Hi Guys
I have my eye on a Kity2636. Is this a better model than the 3636. Any advice would be great.


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## morrisminordriver

Hi folks, I am resurrecting this thread as I too have acquired an old 636 and need a users manual. I found one online which was just in French and as I dont speak French it was limited value. If anyone has. PDF of one I'd be really grateful.
Thanks, Mike


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## Chrisp

Pm me your email address, I've just found the one that was sent through to me, the manual isn't great but is interesting to see, any other questions just ask.
Regards,
Chris.


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## morrisminordriver

Thanks Chris, I will do just that!


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## Nog

Evening all......well this is my first post.....I've been renovating a house and bought an old ( 1989 if the plate is to be believed) but new and unused Kity 3 636 PT......and as seems to be the situation generally, I cant find a manual......they are easy to find for the later model but that doesnt really help much......
The urgent thing, is that I cant find a means to adjust the thicknessing height.....unless it is the splined shaft that has no handle with the machine? And there is a hand wheel on the right hand side that seems to be mounted in a blanking plug and does nothing.......
Can anyone throw any light my way please? I have some ledge and brace doors to make and a huge pile of kiln dried oak boards to deal with !!! 
I've also been lucky enough to get myself a De Walt router table, bench saw and radial axis chop saw, so I do intend to do more in the future.......


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## Argus

Welcome to the forum.

You need to notch up at least 3 posts to enable your private mail (PM) facility. (Read the basic instructions).

When you've done that, send me (by PM) an e mail address and I'll let you have a manual in PDF.

There isn't much in it, but it should identify the various parts. 
After that post questions on this forum.

All best


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## Nog

Thats very kind of you Argus...I'll attempt to chatter ad nauseum and look forward to contributing something useful too.....


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## Argus

........ the three-post limit also allows you to post pictures, if you can figure out how it's done, so that we can actually see what you mean.

all best


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## blackrodd

Sounds like the wheel is, as you say, missing for the thicknessing bed height,
I've heard of people using a 3/8" drive socket for the spline, and making one up.
And also sounds as if you are missing the guard, there's one on Fleabay at the mo, in yellow, you'll need to extend the yellow bit a couple of inches as it's for a 6" cutterblock, A rare find indeed!
Regards Rodders


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## Eric The Viking

You mention a wheel that des nothing... does it fit on the splined shaft?

I have a smaller Kity, 439, and that handwheel lives on a chain, to stop it getting lost!

NMA will probably sell you one (I expect the shaft is the same on all of them). Might require a second mortgage tho.

You might also try a good motor accessories shop, as that 12-spline shape is used as a head on some automotive bolts, IIRC, so somewhere there will be a 1/2"- or 3/8"-drive socket to fit it. You might even find a normal 12-faceted socket would do it, although it may chew up the shaft over time.

HTH, E.


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## Nog

It doesnt fit on the splined shaft, it seems sealed into a blank socket on the casing...I'll try to take some pics and post them.....it seems a strange set up I have to say....but that could be cos of my inexperience.....


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## Argus

There are two tables which are aligned for planing, separated by the cutter block in the middle. (The thicknesssing action is completely different).

Viewing from the side facing where the plug and switch should be; the wood is fed across the tables from right to left. 

The left side is the out-feed table, the right side is the in-feed. There should be a knob about 50 or 60 mm in diameter in the centre of the end of the in-feed table. This is the adjustment for that table. It increases or decreases the height. Clock-wise to raise (decrease) the cut, counter clockwise to lower (increase) the cut.

One thing that you may not be aware of is the limitations this machine has for working without adequate chip clearance. You will find that the throat will choke in a few minutes with chips. A powered chip remover is essential.

All best


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## Nog

Yes, having had a play I have found just how quickly it gets choked with chips......When you say a powered chip remover do you mean a vaccum dust extracting unit ?


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## Eric The Viking

Probably. But it's not dust but substantial chips that will be 'extracted'. I have a 4" hose going to a 2HP dual-bag (top+bottom) extractor, similar to this one:





It often clogs. I find the trick is to keep the hose run as straight and horizontal as possible, and avoid vertical sections (I can't avoid the last bit into the fan, obviously). You'll need DX, or you'll have to stop planing often to clear out the thicknesser bed when it fills up. 

Thicknessing probably does need an extractor. I'm not sure about the 636, but the 439 outlet is oval, so it's already reduced in cross-section to start with. I wouldn't omit the deflector on safety grounds. It won't be that different with the bigger machine - the amount of chips you make depends on the stock obviously, and I'd guess you'll only occasionally use the full width.


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## blackrodd

Although this may not be much use to you, being in french at least there are some pic's for others to have a butchers at.
Who may come along on the same quest!
Regards Rodders

http://efr39.free.fr/Kity/kity%20635/page_01.htm

And the same in pd

http://efr39.free.fr/Kity/kity%20635/kity%20635.pdf


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## Argus

Regarding the chip extractor, it's as Eric has said. The type of chip extractor shown is typical of what I meant.

There's a difference between chips and dust. Fortunately, the Kity machine does not produce volumes of dust, though a good mask is essential. The chips are a different matter. I have found that my machine will choke in both configurations, planing and thicknessing, because of the enclosed design of the chip hood that doubles as the cutter safety guard. It has an internal baffle that creates a vortex to transmit the chips onward when used with a powered extractor. Without one it traps all the particles very quickly.

You can have a PDF in English if you PM your e mail.


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## DerekJohn

Thank you so much!
Manual received and has already proved its worth.
In addition I have found another one for the 636 + a whole lot of other stuff, but in French, which I am slowly translating. The main subject is the complete renovation of a Kity 635 including many issues such the way to realign the drive belt after taking the thing apart to clean - as I am doing. The 636 is closer in structure to the 635 than the 637.
More later when the translation work is complete.
The French source is here if anyone is interested.
http://www.metabricoleur.com/t3211p50-u ... a-kity-635


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## Argus

No problem, Derek.
I don't know what variants affect your machine: mine is about 25 years old and still going.
The manual does not give much detail about repairs - next to nothing - so you'll have to work it out for yourself as you go. Copious notes are the order of the day when taking it to bits.

However, words of warning about disassembling the rise and fall chain/sprocket/threaded-rod assembly below the thicknesser table. 

DON'T touch it unless you have to. It is precisely set up.

The number of turns of each of the four threaded rods and the exact location of each locating tooth of the sprocket in relation to the position of the chain is CRITICAL. Get it even one part of a turn wrong and the table will be on a tilt and the boards will come out an uneven thickness. 
I don't know the French for "A First-Class B.u.gger" when fixing that part, but there must be a phrase.
.............other than all that it's a great little machine; very rugged.


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## Arctichawk74

This is not a respond, I am asking for help to find spare parts for a Kitty 636 jointer/ thicknesses.
My name is Johnny I am an American living in Africa. My email address is [email protected] 
Thanks for the help


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## Dave1

Hi all please could anyone send me a copy of the Kitty 636/3636 manual please and does anyone have a broken down Kitty that I could purchase a blade guard and the chip extraction hood please advise thank you


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## rogxwhit

Surely the 3636 is a later model with a different design, Dave? Which one have you got?


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## Dave1

3636 I thought they may be similar I have purchased and been renovated it for a few weeks now and trying to find as much information as I can plenty of YouTube I think I might have to start doing some fabrication if I can’t find parts thank you for getting back to me


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## Dave1




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## Dave1

rogxwhit said:


> Surely the 3636 is a later model with a different design, Dave? Which one have you got?


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## rogxwhit

Ok, looks like you're well into setting it up. I rebuilt an earlier 636 which has a different thicknesser bed rise / fall mechanism. It looks like the surfacing tables and cutterhead are attached to the frame similarly though, and I found that the holes in the sideframes are slightly oversized to allow a degree of adjustment for all three. So if you have trouble with alignment, that's the key. 

Looks like you're missing the swing arm that holds the top guard? If you had the arm it's easy enough to make a guard plate. Otherwise you could think of cannibalising a complete guard from a different make of similar size? It doesn't have to have an arm, either, it could be the post-mounted type ...


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## Dave1

Hi there do you have manual for this planner that you could email me I am also looking for the chipper extraction hood as well as the blade guard thank you


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## rogxwhit

No manual, sorry, but the user manuals aren't a huge amount of use anyway. Hunt online, you might be lucky. 

Extraction hoods can be made from sheet steel (or alu) if you have some tinsnips, a file and a pop riveter - or you can use plywood (except for the spout!) ...


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## Fergie 307

Might be worth having a look for parts on e bay France.


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## Dave1

Thank you but could with some dimensions of the hood and were to fit it


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## rogxwhit

Look at pics of over-unders to get some ideas. 

The surfacing guard should be adjustable for both height and lateral projection across the tables. 

An optional surfacing extraction hood can rest on the thicknesser bed. If you dimension it correctly, winding up the bed can secure it in place. It might do double duty as a thicknessing extraction hood, secured by an alternative method.

The simplest form of thicknessing guard / hood takes the form of a chute, but sprays out dust & chips all over.

All the measurements can be taken off the machine.


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## Dave1

But can’t see were it would fit exactly thank you for your comment s


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## Dave1

rogxwhit said:


> Surely the 3636 is a later model with a different design, Dave? Which one have you got?


3636 kity


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## rogxwhit

Dave1 said:


> 3636 kity


Yes, I got that. 

It's likely that a thicknesser hood (whether a plain chute or one with an extraction spout) would attach instead of the fence - ie would have a clamping bar that replicates the fence bar. Apart from that it'll be just a shaped box. So you'd need to make a bar accordingly, and bracket the hood to it. Some form of registering would be handy so the cutters can't hit the underside of the box anywhere.


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