# Tauco pillar drill



## neilyweely (30 Aug 2012)

This is my latest toy. I have an old Nu-Tool pillar drill, benchtop model, that has a bit too much slop for my liking. I rarely use it, but for those occasions when I do I would rather have something more solid. If antique.

So, here it is. A Tauco. Weighs a tonne, even though it is, I think, still classed as a benchtop model. It is a bit of a big benchtop model, but certainly not a floorstander. There is no play in the shaft, even when fully extended, and it all appears to be in good working order, if a little scruffy.

I did consider painting it again, and maybe making a new guard for the top (it never had one) as the belt spinning round on show is a little unnerving. Old phot's of this model all show it as I have mine; no gaurd.

So, does anyone have one of these, or has anyone used one? Can anyone give me any information (like where is the switch supposed to be; mine doesn't have one at all - I was going to use a spare NVR i have, but mount it on the bench?) on this model? I could probably let this go as I do have a large Clarke floor stander, certainly a bigger motor, and quite well made, but tbh I think this is nicer. Unless anyone knows otherwise.



I got it for £20 from a local. I love locals. I cannot find any information on it other than the few pics and sales descriptions on for sale boards.

Thanks in advance.

Neil

PS The handle is missing; does anyone know where I might get something suitable? Would iron pipe do it?


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## kirkpoore1 (31 Aug 2012)

Tauco was the foreign sales arm for Delta back in the '40s and '50s. I'm not an expert on Delta drill presses, but I _think_ that's a 14" model, commonly called a DP 220 for the casting number on the head. Vintagemachinery.org has lots of pictures of these. Here's the Tauco page:
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1151&tab=4&sort=1&th=false&fl=

And here's the Delta page:
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=4&sort=1&th=false&fl=
Be warned, the Delta page has nearly 2000 machines on it, with scores if not a hundred or two drill presses. You should get an idea of switch locations. I think some of these had a motor mounted switch with push/pull rod on the front of the machine to operate it. The quill handle is a simple piece of steel rod sized to fit the hole.

The same head was used on both the floor and table top models. These were made by the tens of thousands If you come over to OWWM.org, somebody will be able to give you a positive ID. There are also a number of threads there on restorations of this model, add-ons, and stuff like that. Some of these Deltas have some unusual quill bearings, but I think other than that the restoration should be pretty straightforward.

I think you got a great buy. Certainly better than any equivalently sized piece of Chiwanese junk out there.

Kirk


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## neilyweely (31 Aug 2012)

Kirk

Thankyou sir, I appreciate that.
I am not sure if I am imagining it (my eyes ain't what they used to be) but I am seeing a tiny little bit of run out in the shaft. And also the drill bit and the hole in the table are a way off lining up, in other words the drill puts 'oles in the table if you follow through. The answer is ' Avoid follow through!' :lol: 

Thanks again
Neil


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## kirkpoore1 (31 Aug 2012)

neilyweely":3bja4jgo said:


> Kirk
> 
> Thankyou sir, I appreciate that.
> I am not sure if I am imagining it (my eyes ain't what they used to be) but I am seeing a tiny little bit of run out in the shaft. And also the drill bit and the hole in the table are a way off lining up, in other words the drill puts 'oles in the table if you follow through. The answer is ' Avoid follow through!' :lol:
> ...




There could be some runout, or there could be some crud in the taper socket above the chuck which is causing the chuck to be a little off center. Runout is probably a bearing issue. 

And the holes in the table are known as a "smile" or as the "arc of shame" (because they come from abuse by the user). If the main hole in the table doesn't line up with the drill bit, you should simply shift the table.

Kirk


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## neilyweely (31 Aug 2012)

Hi Kirk

Not sure you understand what I mean - the arc of shame is there right enough, but it extends past the centre hole; in other words there is an arc which is the smile and the center hole is the nose, all I need is the eyes. Its as though the table has shifted forwards, or the drill back. Which is, I believe, impossible. So I'm not sure what is going on here at all. I cannot see any way of adjusting it so the table is in the correct position; centred so the drill passes thorugh the centre hole in the table.
Any ideas?

Neil


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## neilyweely (31 Aug 2012)

OK, so its not a smile, its a sulk. With a moustache.  
This should make it clearer. It appears the table has been moved about, but I can't see how this was achieved.
there is no obvious way to correct the position of the table closer to the pillar, or the drill further from the pillar. So I guess I must be missing something. And before anyone says, there is not that much run out; even I would notice that!

Thanks

Neil


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## Grahamshed (31 Aug 2012)

I know nothing of such things but could it perhaps not be the original table ?


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## neilyweely (1 Sep 2012)

Hi Graham. 
I know nowt about drills either, but it looks as though the table was, at one point, in the correct position. If you look at the pic you can see there are two arcs of holes, one slight and one far more obvious. Which would indicate movement, would it not?
Thanks Graham
Neil


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## jimi43 (1 Sep 2012)

Nice one Graham....I love restoring old machines...great satisfaction in it!

Please restore it and post some WIP if you are going to keep it!

Cheers

Jimi


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## kirkpoore1 (1 Sep 2012)

I think Graham's right--there's been either a table transplant or a head transplant. Either is possible, but I bet that thing started out as a 15" DP and the new head got added later.

Kirk


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## neilyweely (1 Sep 2012)

I*m gonna have to strip at all down, and clean all the parts as it is deffo running out about a mm, which is unacceptable. I am hoping it is the chuckj itself, as this will obviously be easier to fix than the shaft being bent, and it does look like this at the moment as it is very difficult to see any movement in the shaft but quite easy to see in the chuck, and although I am aware it would be exaggerated as it passes down to the chuck it is fairly apparent where the problem is.

I will take some pictures.

Neil


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## kirkpoore1 (1 Sep 2012)

Neil:

I hope you don't mind, but I posted your pics over on OWWM.org and asked about what was going on with the table. Here's what likely happened: 

Your drill press started life using the _base_ as the table. That style base on a table top DP was actually used as the table. At some point later, the table, off of a larger DP, became available and a previous owner put it on the column. This gave him the opportunity to abuse the table all over again in a different spot. 

There are a number of ways to fix this. You can fill the holes with epoxy, body filler (Bondo or equivalent), or even babbitt metal, then scrape the fixes flat. You could have a welder fill the holes, then have the table reground--perhaps the most expensive option. Either way, it will be just fine. Or, since this DP will be used for woodworking, build a wood or MDF table to go over it, and you'll never see the blemishes. Me? I'd be covering the table with something anyway, so I'd go the last route.

Kirk


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## neilyweely (1 Sep 2012)

Kirk
Spot on mate; thats what I will do. I have never done a refurb on an old machine before; I've abused and killed off plenty, but never saved a life!! So I guess I ought to take some pictures to prove my good nature!

Kirk, you are obviously quite knowledgeable on old drill presses; may I be so bold as to ask your help when the time comes. Would that be OK?

Thanks either way. But not really if you're not gonna help! :lol: 

Neil


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## Grahamshed (1 Sep 2012)

Cannot believe I got something right on here


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## dickm (1 Sep 2012)

kirkpoore1":3vt2ldfs said:


> And the holes in the table are known as a "smile" or as the "arc of shame" (because they come from abuse by the user).
> Kirk



Nice one! Hadn't heard that one before


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## neilyweely (1 Sep 2012)

Graham.

Sorry mate; you were absolutely spot on, weren't you. I never considered it, as it is obviously the same vintage and painted the same. So much so I think it probly came off another Tauco. Or Delta.

I must have a go at sorting it all out as it is capable of putting my other drill press to shame, but at the mment it is not as good/accurate. The Tauco has 4 inches of travel in the chuck, which is great as I am often limited by the 3 inches the other one has(I find myself being very careful how I word things on this forum! :roll: ).

So needless to say it would be an upgrade. Just need to find my drift key.......If it proves to be something other than a simple cure what shoud I do? Is it worth spending money on? Bearing in mind I have the large Clarke and have a good chance of picking up another for next to nowt sooner rather than later.

Thanks Graham, Kirk et al.

Neil


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## kirkpoore1 (1 Sep 2012)

Neil:

My last reply got lost in the ether, or something. Anyway, I'll help with what I can. There are others over on owwm.org that have restored these specific models, so will have more detail, but I've done one DP and can help with the general parts.

Here's a shot of a similar DP, but an earlier model with (I think) a slow speed pulley:





And here's the drill press I restored, before and after:










To start with, be very careful when you remove the pulleys. They're pot metal/zinc/zamak/some other unforgiving alloy, and the front one in particular would be hard to find. Get some penetrating oil, NOT WD-40. WD-40 is not a lubricant. I don't know what brands you have over there; I use Liquid Wrench. Or you can make your own by mixing automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Take it slow and careful, and if you get stuck write here and post some pictures.

Good luck...

Kirk


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## kirkpoore1 (6 Sep 2012)

Neil:

See this thread for a source for spindle bearings for your DP:

http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=111230&p=751064&hilit=DP220+bearings#p751064

Kirk


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## neilyweely (6 Sep 2012)

Kirk ; Thanks mate, but I have took the chuck out and put one of those needle and dial thingyamajiggys on the shaft, and it is running perfectly. So I now need a 16mm chuck on a 1MT. Which i am having trouble finding.
Maybe the original chuck is ok, and was just poorly fitted etc, but it is now in two pieces. There is a funny little bowl thingy that fits inside a female version, and it seems to have come aprt somehow. I find it hard to believe it is a compression fit as I have whacked it and it is not staying put. I am loathe to put epoxy in it as maybe will push the chuck out of true.
Any ideas? Where might I get a 16mm 1MT chuck? for not silly money.

Kirk, You are a gent

Neil


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## kirkpoore1 (6 Sep 2012)

Neil:

Maybe you can post some pictures, because I'm not quite getting what you're saying there. It sounds like the chuck may have had an adapter on it that came off, but maybe I'm completely confused.

I would think fleabay might have chucks for cheap. Or you can buy new--they aren't that expensive. For example:

Chucks:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-chucks/=j6ffp5

Adapters:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-chuck-adapters/=j6fenu

Total price would be about $100 inc shipping. But I don't know what the McMaster-Carr-equivalent place for you is. I'm sure somebody will chime in, though. 

(Yes, $100 sounds high--until you realize that you've got the equivalent of a $500+ DP there.) 

Pay attention to your bearings, though. They may be working now, but if they start squealing be prepared to change them right away.

Kirk


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## 9fingers (6 Sep 2012)

Chronos and RDG supply drill chucks with female tapers as well as arbours MT1 to fit their chucks.
Choose your chuck first and then the arbour to fit. Usually JT3 or B16 in a 16mm chuck
To be honest 16mm chuck is too big for this machine but it is doable if you respect its limitations.

Bob


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## kirkpoore1 (6 Sep 2012)

9fingers":19v5eh0z said:


> Chronos and RDG supply drill chucks with female tapers as well as arbours MT1 to fit their chucks.
> Choose your chuck first and then the arbour to fit. Usually JT3 or B16 in a 16mm chuck
> To be honest 16mm chuck is too big for this machine but it is doable if you respect its limitations.
> 
> Bob



I think Bob's right. I'm pretty sure I only have a 1/2" chuck on my DP, and it handles anything, including a 3-1/2" Forstner bit and a 3" rosette cutter. There's no way your DP will swing those. If you can't get that chuck to work, save the money and buy a smaller replacement.

Kirk


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## Maxamace (12 Aug 2013)

I have just managed to get hold of a Tauco bench drill £20. Bargain. Waiting for it to be delivered. Just needs some TLC. Can anyone tell me how to change the belt from pulley to pully as there seems to be no way to slacken the belt. or is it a case od levering in from pulley to pulley?
Any help here would be appreciated.
Regards,
maxamace


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## Myfordman (12 Aug 2013)

The motor mount moves on the two horizontal bars every time you change the belt ratio. Never ever lever a belt off pulleys there is always a correct way to do slacken the belt first.


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## Teejay (16 Jun 2017)

How did you both manage to get these machines for £20.00? I have seen a nice model listed for £150.00 at the moment. http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/index.ph ... 09&catid=2


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## Farmer Giles (17 Jun 2017)

Four years on maybe they were cheaper 

I have a bench model Tauco in bits under the bench waiting for restoration that my father gave me. Not much wrong with it apart from it's covered in hammerite. I don't really need another pillar drill but it has sentimental value and I enjoy renovating old machines.

Cheers
Andy


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