# The lathe is dead - long live the lathe...



## bogmonster (30 Jul 2014)

Hi,

My rather troublesome Poolewood manual speed control hunk of junk has bitten the dust. There is too much wrong with it to get any enjoyment out of using it any more:

1) The Motor was missing a key (now replaced) and the shaft is badly worn - unless greased every day (which involves a complex strip down of the speed control) is is unbearably noisy and getting worse every time I use it.
2) The motor has a problem with the centrifugal switch and arcs badly sometimes - the load crack is enough to scare me half to death.
3) My hokey large diameter turning 'bed' is n't great and requires a lot of fiddling and even then is not very rigid.
4) The banjo has been modified by a previous owner and it is hard to fit the tool rests - real PITA

Other than the above issues I don't like:

1) It's minimum speed of about 350rpm - too fast for my largest bowls and too fast for sanding
2) It's size

What I really like is the turning position with the headstock swivelled 90 degrees.

So, I think I have decided on a replacement, but before I go there, this is what I want:

1) To be able to turn standing in front of the bowl, not leaning over the bed. Due to ill health I find leaning over the bed uncomfortable.
2) Something where I can turn bowls up to say 18" - and not just platters, deep bowls
3) Hollow headstock spindle so I can use my cheapo vacuum chuck - real convert on vacuum chucks
4) Variable speed
5) Cheap 
6) It would also be useful if I could reuse my existing chucks and face plates which are very similar to a graduates but with a fractionally wider shoulder.

Having the option of using a tail stock would be handy but to be honest I hardly ever use one. 

Sadly there is little I really afford. I think the best option might be a short bed graduate. Ok, the tailstock is a bit of a joke but I can probably live with that. I can weld up a riser to get a sensible working height. They look cool and they are probably the most affordable option that ticks the boxes. I expect by chucks and faceplates will fit - maybe with a tiniest amount of lateral play. 

I am thinking about £500 for a lathe and £450 for a new motor and inverter (assuming I am not lucky enough to get a dual voltage motor).

* The Jet 1442 is too small.
* The Jet 1642 is too small.
* The Jet 3520 looks perfect but is too expensive - if money was not so tight I think this would be the lathe for me.
* The Record Maxi 1 (with bowl attachment) looks good but still too expensive
* Hegners and Wevamacs are also too expensive

Basically, I have done well with the cheapo Poolewood and I am struggling to find anything that will be capable enough in my price range.

Another advantage I can see with the Graduate is that the prices hold up well so if I ever do sell it on I probably won't loose too much.

Confused, BM


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## CHJ (30 Jul 2014)

Graduate Lathe is not going to give you a swivel headstock, to get the face on turning you prefer, you would have to use it as bowl turning only lathe or reverse turning on the back of the headstock (need room to work all round lathe)

I suspect Graduate threads are not going to be compatible with existing Chucks and faceplates.
Poolwood will be 1-1/2" X 6tpi, ( 55 or 60 deg thread dependant on age/model of poolwood)


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## bogmonster (30 Jul 2014)

CHJ":29ps9t6i said:


> Graduate Lathe is not going to give you a swivel headstock, to get the face on turning you prefer, you would have to use it as bowl turning only lathe or reverse turning on the back of the headstock (need room to work all round lathe)
> 
> I suspect Graduate threads are not going to be compatible with existing Chucks and faceplates.
> Poolwood will be 1-1/2" X 6tpi, ( 55 or 60 deg thread dependant on age/model of poolwood)




I don't fancy outboard turning in the 'wrong' direction so I would be looking at a short bed bowl lathe. On my Poolewood I use a graduate L/R Axminster chuck. The threads are compatible with my lathe, the datum shoulder (sorry,can't recall the correct name) was not, had to get a few thousandths skimmed off the inside - just can't remember how many thousandths so not sure if that will be a big issue - might be an issue for precision work in the scroll chuck but I am sure it would be fine for roughing with face plates, screw chucks and pin chucks all of which I use regularly.

I am looking again at the Jet 1642 though. I could turn off the end of the bed with either an extension (I recall somebody fitting an Axminster bed extension) or a free standing tool rest.

Happy enough with good used but can't see that much in the for sale section or on eBay.

BM


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## CHJ (30 Jul 2014)

bogmonster":3xjt13tg said:


> .... On my Poolewood I use a graduate L/R Axminster chuck. The threads are compatible with my lathe, the datum shoulder (sorry,can't recall the correct name) was not, had to get a few thousandths skimmed off the inside - just can't remember how many thousandths so not sure if that will be a big issue - might be an issue for precision work in the scroll chuck but I am sure it would be fine for roughing with face plates, screw chucks and pin chucks all of which I use regularly....



OK, I see why your chucks may transpose, had you have been using earlier Poolwood chucks they may have caused problems, I had both, (lathes and chucks) and they were not mutually interchangeable both ways.


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## Naxie (30 Jul 2014)

bogmonster":2r2epj72 said:


> I don't fancy outboard turning in the 'wrong' direction so I would be looking at a short bed bowl lathe.



Remember if you have speed control fitted you will have reverse so you will be turning the "right way" on the outboard side.

I have a graduate and wouldn't be without it. It's of very solid construction and with some new sealed bearings fitted (around £40 iirc) it's virtually maintenance free. The speed controller kit came from Newton Tesla, who I would highly recommend, very good quality and very helpful techie type people. You are more than welcome to come and try it out but I'm little too far away I think. 

Kind regerds,
Ed


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## bogmonster (30 Jul 2014)

Hi Naxie, it was the Telsa speed control I was looking at. How are you stopping the chuck un-threading itself? I know that some chucks have grub screws but most don't. Given I like turning large lumps, I don't want then coming loose :shock: 

Here are my last few projects which are representative of the sort of turning I do. The largest bowl in this set is about 16" finished size so I probably could have roughed this out on a Graduate short bed but not on the 1642 without a bed extension or floor standing rest. The Maxi 1 would have coped easily - maybe I should ring around and see who will do me a deal on one of those?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/14600502860/

Sorry, didn't bother clearing the table first 

BM


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## Spindle (30 Jul 2014)

Hi

Get the Maxi-1, it's much more suited to your needs - you'll always be regretting a decision not to.

Regards Mick


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## bogmonster (30 Jul 2014)

Hi Spindle,

One concern with the Maxi 1 is reliability. I know some of the other record lathes had terrible reliability issues, not sure if this applies to the Maxi? If I am going to spend upwars of £2000 on a lathe it must last.

Another option I am looking at is the Axminster AT1628VS. I could buy this without the legs and cut down the bench from the Poolewood. The Poolewood bench is quite good and full of sand but in its current form way too long. 

I suspect that I could even mount a bed extension to the metal sides of the poolewood bench. Might need to weld or bolt on a lump of 12mm plate stiffen it up a bit but that is easily done. In fact I could weld up a bench and fill it full of concrete and end up with something far more rigid then the official legs for far less money - but way more hassle. 

It is not big between centres but that is a bonus for me - no plans to ever turn stair spindles and standard lamps 

As the headstock will slide down the bed I expect I would normally work off the end of the bed - its short length giving me more room in my limited space.

Of the new options this sounds the cheapest but is it going to be man enough? If I am honest, I don't turn masses of bowls above 12", they don't sell well, but I do want the option. The largest bowl I have tuned had a finished size of 18" by 9" - I didn't have a bandsaw so was a very roughly chainsawed blank and was the biggest piece of wood I dared spin at 350 RPM on my wobbly lathe. For larger pieces I expect platters and wall hangings to be more normal - although those wall hangings can be very out of balance....

BM


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## Naxie (30 Jul 2014)

You would need some sort of locking device ie a grub screw to stop it unthreading. Maybe you can retro fit this to a chuck, not sure how possible this would be, to my mind it's only a drill and tap, but maybe one of the more engineerie members needs to comment on that? 

I quite easily adapt to turning either way to be honest but I am naturally left handed so maybe that helps? :-k 

Kind regards,
Ed


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## jpt (30 Jul 2014)

I can recommend the AT1628VS as I have one myself and it has not baulked at anything I have thrown at it. This includes roughing out big burrs up to 24" dia and 12" deep and it has coped without slowing down or slipping even on large cuts. At the moment I use the lathe with the head turned and a home made tool rest, which isnt very good so I will be buying the Jet one soon.

On top of all that a very well known pro turner who has a Maxi 1 is seriously thinking of changing to the 1628 as he says it is a better lathe.

john


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## bogmonster (30 Jul 2014)

Hi John,

Could you let me know the height between centres and the bottom of the bed casting? Trying to work out if I can reuse my current bench?

BM


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## woodfarmer (30 Jul 2014)

jpt":2u3spnc0 said:


> I can recommend the AT1628VS as I have one myself and it has not baulked at anything I have thrown at it. This includes roughing out big burrs up to 24" dia and 12" deep and it has coped without slowing down or slipping even on large cuts. At the moment I use the lathe with the head turned and a home made tool rest, which isnt very good so I will be buying the Jet one soon.
> 
> On top of all that a very well known pro turner who has a Maxi 1 is seriously thinking of changing to the 1628 as he says it is a better lathe.
> 
> john



I was about to recommend one, as I have one of them myself. Especially useful is a bed extension mounted lower down for turning bowls up to 70 cm diameter "front on", been using it since Oct/Nov last year and not had any problems with it at all (so far)  And I do like to try some bigger difficult bits of wood.


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## Spindle (31 Jul 2014)

Hi

I had a discussion on here a while ago where it transpired that the AW1628VS was more expensive than the MAXI-1 if you added up the accessories required to bring it to the same spec, it's also considerably lighter than the Record machine.

I'm also sure you will find that Record had issues with their motors and controllers when they were supplied from the far east - I understand that they have now gone back to sourcing them in Europe and the issues have ceased, but please confirm my dodgy memory with Record.

Regards Mick

Found it - You may find the views aired in this thread interesting:

which-one-to-buy-t77097-30.html


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## Vic Perrin (31 Jul 2014)

Spindle":2p9px20x said:


> Hi
> 
> I had a discussion on here a while ago where it transpired that the AW1628VS was more expensive than the MAXI-1 if you added up the accessories required to bring it to the same spec, it's also considerably lighter than the Record machine.
> 
> ...



Mick, I fully support what you have said about the Maxi 1 in this thread. Mine is now coming up to 5 years old and touch wood I have never had a single problem with it. When I think about some of the lumps of wood I have thrown on it (30" diam at times) and some of them so irregular and out of balance it had coped brilliantly. The Maxi 1 is a very robust machine designed for large work but equally you can produce delicate tiny work.

I hovered around before buying the machine as at nearly £2000 when I brought it but took the plunge and have never looked back. I am sure that there are better lathes in this upper price bracket but the Maxi 1 has met all my needs and more.

When I brought the machine a mate said that I was mad spending that sort of money . Nearly 5 years on he is on his third lathe and still not happy and with all the ancillary equipment he has had to buy for the different lathes he has spent well over what the Maxi cost me.

I would say that to buy a lathe like the Maxi as a first lathe is a step to far. I brought a cheap lathe as my first lathe and when I realised I was hooked into this turning game I upgraded to a machine that would perform and give long service.

Vic


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## Phil Pascoe (31 Jul 2014)

There is a Maxi 1 "over yonder" at the moment.


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## bogmonster (31 Jul 2014)

Oh I did enjoy the linked debate on the merits of the CL4 / Maxi / 1628 / Jets. This does appear to be a religious decision. 

I really would rather avoid spending £2000+ on a lathe. My son will soon be going to Uni and my job is not necessarily that secure and I am only working part time due to health problems. I have enough money in the bank to buy whatever lathe I want, it is just being able to justify it. Turning is just one of my hobbies, I have am also an amateur blacksmith so have a forge in the other half of the garage - great combination, wood shavings, forge, yellow hot metal and oxy propane set in the corner, what could possibly go wrong?

In the short term I could make do with a 1628 on an existing bench at £1400 but I agree, when legs and bed extension is added it starts getting up to the same money as many of the other options. 

One interesting comment in the other thread was about using the extension bed on the 1628 for large bowls and the length of the banjo not allowing the toolrest to be positioned on the outside of large bowls. If true, this sounds like a big issue for me. I could use a free standing toolrest but have never really liked the idea of these - always worried about pulling them into the wood on a big catch and general lack of stability - maybe this is unfounded.

So the 1628 on my old bench with jet free standing rest = £1750.
Maxi 1 is another £600 at £2350

I do actually have a free standing rest that came with the Poolewood but it does not look very clever. For a start it has 4 feet so unless your floor is level you would need to constantly adjust it.

Arghhh, this is too complicated...


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## Woodmonkey (31 Jul 2014)

For what it's worth, and just to confuse it a bit more, I've got a record nova 1624 which ticks all your boxes, except vs which can easily be added later (speed genie etc) it's a very solid reliable machine


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## Phil Pascoe (31 Jul 2014)

As I said - there is a Maxi 1 somewhere else for four days.


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## bogmonster (31 Jul 2014)

Hi Phil, yes, that one is an option I am considering 

WoodMonkey, I had not considered the 1624. Although it does not have variable speed the lowest speed is reasonably slow at 178 RPM. The outrigger does look mighty flimsy on it and I have read reviews that it does flex quite a bit with people resorting to bottle jacks under it - that does not sound spiffy  Do you use the outrigger? What are your thoughts?

BM


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## Robbo3 (31 Jul 2014)

bogmonster":2hz1h18s said:


> Could you let me know the height between centres and the bottom of the bed casting? Trying to work out if I can reuse my current bench?
> BM



AT1628VS 
Bed height - 165mm + centre height - 204mm
Total - 369mm (14.5")


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## jpt (31 Jul 2014)

bogmonster":3nwq5fgz said:


> Hi John,
> 
> Could you let me know the height between centres and the bottom of the bed casting? Trying to work out if I can reuse my current bench?
> 
> BM




HI

The height from the bottom of the casting to the centre is 375mm, this was a bit low for me to use on my existing bench so I raised it using some solid pieces of hardwood to the correct height.

If you are going to fix it to your own bench you will need some threaded rod and nuts the size is 3/8 UNC.

With regards to the Jet free standing toolrest I know someone who has had it fro sometime now and he says there isnt a problem with it moving even after a catch, I had a go with it myself and I am impressed with it and will be buying one at the end of next month.

john


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## bogmonster (31 Jul 2014)

jpt":1nvq81bj said:


> bogmonster":1nvq81bj said:
> 
> 
> > Hi John,
> ...




Thanks. I am at work at the moment so can't measure but I strongly suspect my bench is also too low. It will be much easier to block the lathe up then cut down the bench down seeing at it has thick pressed steel end panels. Either way I will cut the bench down in length which should be much easier. The top of my bench is full of sand so I think I will box in part of the bottom as well and also fill that with sand so I keep the same mass in the shorter bench. No idea how heavy it is but it took four blokes to carry it using scaffold bars so it is properly heavy. Well I am pulling it apart I may weld some heavy angle to the bottom of the side panels and attach some adjustment feet.

I am tempted to try and attach the bed extension to the front of the bench, offset to the left of the headstock but I wonder if I can get everything rigid enough?

Will save me a lot of cash and I suspect be far more stable than the cast legs

I think I am almost decided on the 1624.


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## bogmonster (31 Jul 2014)

OK, existing bench will fit with blocking up - hovering over the buy button, just trying to convince myself this is the correct machine. There is currently one on a well known auction site with legs at £1280 but given that I don't want the legs the saving is not worth it considering the warranty is not transferable.

Just waiting for SWMBO to get home to 'approve' the purchase. I could buy it without her blessing but I don't think that is wise :wink: 

If somebody can also provide the bed length I can start hacking down the bench that would be mighty helpful.

As for the Poolewood, I don't think there will be too much of value in the bits but if anybody has got one and needs spares? The main spindle is good, the bearings and belt are almost new. I will happily strip them out and send to anybody who will pay the postage. Can't imagine that anybody will want the castings and I would not give the motor to my worst enemy. I will see if I can track down the list of members lathes and PM anybody - I don't want money for any of it. I think the chucks and face plates are already spoken for though.

BM


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## Phil Pascoe (31 Jul 2014)

If it's a 28-40 I'll have the banjo/saddle/toolrest support call it what you will and the spindle and bearings, please. I'll PM you (assuming it's a 28-40)


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## Woodmonkey (31 Jul 2014)

> The outrigger does look mighty flimsy on it and I have read reviews that it does flex quite a bit with people resorting to bottle jacks under it



Don't know what they've been using but mine feels rock solid, never felt any flex in it yet.


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## bogmonster (31 Jul 2014)

Ok, SWIMBO didn't bat an eyelid, I think it is a done deal. Anybody ever get any joy with haggling at Axminster? I am not above such things...

Phil, I might keep the banjo for now as it fits the strange stand alone tool support I have. You can definately have the other bits. Won't get around to stripping it until next week, away this weekend. 

BM


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## Dalboy (31 Jul 2014)

bogmonster":32xk0dpr said:


> Anybody ever get any joy with haggling at Axminster? I am not above such things...
> 
> 
> BM




My attitude to these things is "if you don't ask you don't get" they can only say yes or no at the end of the day


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## graduate_owner (31 Jul 2014)

Well I have no experience of Record or Axminster lathes, but I do have a Graduate bowl lathe and I love it. It has an Axminster Evolution chuck which fits both left and right hand threads, and a set of O'Donnell jaws which I also like very much. I have a 3 phase inverter which I use on my Myford ML8 and on some other metalworking kit, and will be changing the graduate motor to 3 phase soon - been meaning to do that for ages.

The graduate is nice and solid, being a block of cast iron. Being a bowl lathe meant it cost a lot less (£150), and I can use my ML8 when I need a bed and tail stock. I also intend to make up a floor standing rest so I can use the inboard side of the graduate without a bed getting in the way.(So many plans to make things, so little getting done). I was thinking a floor standing arrangement possibly screwed to the floor so it wouldn't move or cause vibration. 

The inboard arrangement with separate stand might suit you and possibly at an affordable price with good re-sale value.

K


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## YewTube (1 Aug 2014)

bogmonster":2xfyl8ny said:


> Anybody ever get any joy with haggling at Axminster? I am not above such things...
> 
> BM



Don't haggle with Axminster, haggle with their agents.

Bill


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## Vic Perrin (1 Aug 2014)

phil.p":31na02qh said:


> As I said - there is a Maxi 1 somewhere else for four days.



Just had a look at that. It seems a fair price especially with the extras it comes with.

Vic


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## Happy amateur (1 Aug 2014)

If you are a member of a woodturning club Axminster do 
10% discount through the club

Fred


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## bogmonster (4 Aug 2014)

That 10% discount sounds like a good reason to join a club - even if I never attend  I wonder if there are any cheap clubs I can join over the internet? 

It is a shame that with most of these places you can't actually try a lathe before parting with cash. I understand the difficulties with this and the man from Axminster did tell me he would plug one in so I could listen to it. I certainly would not buy a new car just listening to the engine but without a test drive. I am sure there is some virtual mileage in actually going to have a look and swinging on the banjo and headstock like an orangutan to see how much they flex, just not sure of it is worth the 80 miles physical millage.

Buying new tools for one's hobbies should be fun I thought, if so why am I so fed up and grumpy about it I wonder? 

BM


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## bogmonster (5 Aug 2014)

I am going to take a visit to Axminster tomorrow with SWMBO - she is far better at bargaining than me  

They may even give me the lathe if I promise to take the dragon home...

I expect I will be returning with an AT 1628vs (no legs), a K10 chuck (think this will suit my method of working better that an Evolution, and possibly the bed extension?

I will certainly try for the Jet toolrests to be thrown in.

BM


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## bogmonster (6 Aug 2014)

The deed is done. I had a trip to Yandles and Axminster today. I looked at:

1) Record CL4 - was never really on my list but had a look anyway.
2) Record Nova - thought this was OK but no variable speed and too much flex in outrigger for me. The variable speed version was too spendy.
3) Maxi 1 - Great looking machine but a couple of things put me off. I hated the position of the headstock lock, because the way I work opening a chuck on the inside of a bowl this severely limited clearance to 16" regardless of over the bed or outrigger. Also, when turned 90 degrees the bed limited depth of bowls for my odd way of working. I expect this is not an issue for most folks but was a deal breaker for me. Also didn't like the spindle lock for the same reasons.
4) Jet 1642 (or whatever the length is). Liked this but did not like the room it took up with bed extension in the lower position. Also did not like the spindle lock and the clearance with the headstock casting. Lack of rotating headstock was limiting.
5) AT1628VS. This was the lathe I expected to go home with. I thought this machine was really well thought out. It certainly matched my needs better than all of the above. I know I work in a strange way but that is how I work and did not want to change. The clearance between the work and the chuck jaws is still about 1" less that on my old Poolewood at about 5" but far better that anything else I looked at. No spindle lock to get in the way, the headstock lock was at the side out the way, with the headstock at the end there was a sheer, unobstructed drop to the floor.

So I bought the AT1628VS, a K10 chuck (again because this suite by chuck inside bowl style) and a bed extension. The evolution chuck does look nice and I may also get one at a later date.

I got home rather late and my health has taken a nose dive so I had a fight to remove the old lathe, cut down the bench and get the new lathe in. Garage already looked like a bomb had hit it. I need to do more work on the bench including some welding for the bed extension before I can really get to play. 

One concern, I did spin the machine up and the indexing ring as I think the manual calls it is definitely not running concentrically. It is not the same as in the manual, it is longer and is screwed on and held with a couple of grub screws. I suspect that the thread is a bit loose and the grub screws are pushing it over to one side. The face plate is also not quite concentric but the shoulder on the front of the shaft looks ok. I am tempter to remove the indexing ring and see if the rear end of the shaft is running ok but will call Axminster first. Sadly I don't have a dial gauge.

BM


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## themackay (23 Aug 2014)

phil.p":1mnort5i said:


> There is a Maxi 1 "over yonder" at the moment.



Where is "over yonder"


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## Phil Pascoe (23 Aug 2014)

The place we do not mention beginning with "e" :lol:


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## themackay (23 Aug 2014)

OK im trying to work it out


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## Phil Pascoe (23 Aug 2014)

A large on line auction site...


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## themackay (23 Aug 2014)

I thought it was another Forum Doh.


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## RogerP (23 Aug 2014)

phil.p":1fmzj5s2 said:


> The place we do not mention beginning with "e" :lol:


... why don't "we" mention eBay?


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## Phil Pascoe (23 Aug 2014)

Because the post will likely as not get taken down.


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## RogerP (23 Aug 2014)

phil.p":2u0zjpgw said:


> Because the post will likely as not get taken down.


I think only if one gives a direct link to a current item. Mentioning the name of the place does no more harm than any other source of supply, Axminster, Rutland etc. which are quoted every day in many posts.

On another current thread an eBay item is being discussed (no link) and a mod has happily (it seems) joined in.


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## Phil Pascoe (23 Aug 2014)

I posted a "buy it now" (not a live auction) two nights ago with no links, and it was very quickly taken down.


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## RogerP (23 Aug 2014)

............ well I'm sure the mods know best


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## huntercold (24 Aug 2014)

Hi BM do you still have the poolewood? Could I have the belt if its not already spoken for? 

Many thanks
Jack


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## bogmonster (24 Aug 2014)

Hi, 

Phil has first dibs on what is there. There are actually 2 belts. An almost new replacement one (changed it when trying to sort out other issues) and the one that was in the machine which is was not in bad condition at all. If Phil does not want both, you are welcome to one.

I am supposed to be on hols so i think Phil is getting back to me in a week with what he wants.

All the castings were out front for the last week waiting for scrap man to collect. I caught a couple of chaps trying to walk off with a few lumps... need to remember to lock the garage tonight.

BM.


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## Phil Pascoe (24 Aug 2014)

No, I don't need both.


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## huntercold (27 Aug 2014)

In that case BM could I grab the other please? Would be eternally grateful


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## bogmonster (27 Aug 2014)

huntercold":tfk28bj4 said:


> In that case BM could I grab the other please? Would be eternally grateful



PM sent.


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## bogmonster (28 Aug 2014)

It should get posted today. It is a slightly different length than the original but still fits as the motor can be adjusted backwards and forwards about an inch. The original spec belt is no longer available. A helpful man at Poolewood pointed me in the right direction. If you search the forums there is some advice on how to change the belt I believe. But the short version from memory:

1) Clean up as much dust as you can unless you plan to change the bearings at the same time - otherwise you will contaminate the bearings.
2) Adjust lathe to high speed - makes it easier.
3) Take off top plate of headstock.
4) Slacken motor mounts - three hex machine screws.
5) Remove the orange access plate.
6) Use allen key to release the spring on the motor shaft - may want to use an open ended spanner or similar to hold the spring washer in place as the spring is quite strong.
7) Remove spring and slide back cone.
8) Unscrew the index ring and then unscrew the locking nut (which I think has a grub screw?) that sits behind the index ring.
9) Unscrew grub screws on the the spindle shaft cone - the one on the thread end of the spindle.
10) Tap out shaft using soft mallet - you will need to slide the cones down.
11) You should now be able to remove the belt.
12) Reverse to re-assemble. Do not over-tighten the the retaining nut on the shaft as it will put too much pressure on the bearings. Tighten until there is no discernible play and you should be good. Check again after running for a bit. 

While it is all apart you may want to consider replacing the bearings - a seized may take out the shaft and that is goodbye lathe. There are 3, front and back and one in the cone assembly, I am sure I have listed the bearing numbers in an earlier thread if you are interested in doing this - in fact here 0-t56834.html[/url]

BM


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## huntercold (28 Aug 2014)

Wow thanks BM,

Will look at changing the bearings.

Jack


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