# Dionysus Desk(s) W I P. Completed



## Mattty (31 Oct 2009)

I was commisioned a few months ago to design and make a smallish stand for a much loved sculpture- a bust of Dionysus (god of wine and drunken revelry in Greek mythology) My kind of god!

The brief was very loose with me having quite a free hand in the design. The sculpture itself is very heavy, and the design will need to be strong. The sculpture currently sits on a crappy 80's stereo cabinet on the clients landing and this is where the new piece will sit.

So after many sketches and drawings i finally came up with this-










(Edit- the rail underneath the drawer isn't there, so just ignore that line)
I haven't mastered sketchup so the drawings may be a little difficult to see. Anyway, the client approved the plans, paid the deposit and agreed the timber. 
Somewhere along the way i suggested to her that the stand could be made as a desk so she could use it as a seperate piece of furniture if she ever decided to move things around. 
I made a start on the machining this afternoon and have also decided to make 2.
The frame is all in spalted Beech and the top and other details will be in American Black Walnut.




Face and edging the leg pieces.




Once planed, they where ripped to size. These wixey gadgets are great!

I made a jig to taper the legs, the legs will be Octagonal when finished-





Thats as far as i got, i'll update again soon.


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## JonnyD (31 Oct 2009)

Mattty":6zo4lmoz said:


> Once planed, they where ripped to size. These wixey gadgets are great!
> .



surely it will fly off as soon as you press the start button  

Looking good matty

Cheers

Jon


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## wizer (31 Oct 2009)

I read today that those angle gauges are accurate to 1/10th of a degree. Brilliant bit of kit.

Love the design, looking forward to the rest of the WIP


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## JonnyD (31 Oct 2009)

Hows does that guage work. I presume you zero it too the bed and then attach to the blade else the saw would have to be perfectly level to a 1/10 of a degree.

Cheers

Jon


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## Mattty (31 Oct 2009)

JonnyD":1ehrsak7 said:


> Hows does that guage work. I presume you zero it too the bed and then attach to the blade else the saw would have to be perfectly level to a 1/10 of a degree.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Jon



Thats it. It really comes in for different angles 45 degrees etc, where the accuracy is vital. They only cost about £20 off ebay. I have an alluminium fence on my planer, but that would be another good use.


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## Ironballs (31 Oct 2009)

Looks like it could be a fun one this Matty, like the leg design. You don't have a picture of the sculpture do you?

Nice looking shop too, some good pro stuff in there


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## Mattty (31 Oct 2009)

Ironballs":2kp7ze8w said:


> Looks like it could be a fun one this Matty, like the leg design. You don't have a picture of the sculpture do you?
> 
> Nice looking shop too, some good pro stuff in there



I don't mate- something similar to this though-


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## BradNaylor (1 Nov 2009)

Mattty":2ryvu3g5 said:


> I was commisioned a few months ago...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Fixed it for you, Matt!

:lol:

Nice commission. Funnily enough, I've started getting more requests for one-off freestanding pieces in solid wood.

My local member of Northern Contemporary Furniture Makers meanwhile, has been making MDF alcove units...


:shock:


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## woodbloke (1 Nov 2009)

Mattty":19nlzlnk said:


> Face and edging the leg pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Does cast iron saw well?...nice start btw - Rob


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## Mattty (1 Nov 2009)

BradNaylor":eufq9nn6 said:


> Mattty":eufq9nn6 said:
> 
> 
> > I was commisioned a few months ago...
> ...



That sounds about right with your new sig mate.


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## Mattty (1 Nov 2009)

woodbloke":15ml245s said:


> Mattty":15ml245s said:
> 
> 
> > Face and edging the leg pieces.
> ...



Cheeky- That was in the fence when i got it.. honest guv. Actually the fence is Aluminium, the clamp is cast. Damn cheap Sedgwick machinery.


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## Mattty (2 Nov 2009)

Ok- A full day on this today and some decent progress.

I finished machining the legs to the full tapered Octagon shape-




I was very pleased with these





These where cleaned up with a sharp no4.
They where then cut to length and the top end faceted-




I'd machined most of the rails and draw frame components already, so they just needed marking up and attacking with the domino. This is a massive labour saving tool on a job like this, especially where the shoulders of tenons would be angled.









A quick trial fit of the componets so i could check the proportions- The front rail is just a temp lath.




Showing the detail of the leg tops-





I made up the draw runner frame, this will fit just behind the front legs and attatch to the side rails and rear rail. Not how i would normally do it but hopefully a good solution-





Finally i managed to get one of the tops planed and glued up, The Walnut has for the commisioned top hasn't been delivered yet so that's on hold. I'm using Am. Cherry for the other one. I'm hoping it oxidises to the darker red it normally is. 





I even shot the joints by hand! This hand work malarky is hard work.









All glued up and ready for the drum sander tomorrow..I won't be hand planing the top thats for sure!

Any comments welcomed


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## wizer (2 Nov 2009)

Looking good Matt.


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## Karl (2 Nov 2009)

Coming together very nicely Matt.

Cheers

Karl


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## JonnyD (2 Nov 2009)

looking good mate  

cheers

jon


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## Ironballs (2 Nov 2009)

Yep, coming along quickly and nicely. Is this the next instalment of the convince Rob to get a Domino pitch!


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## OPJ (2 Nov 2009)

I really like the look of those octagonal legs. 

By the way, is that mitre saw the DW712? Is it really as accurate as DeWalt claim?


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## Lord Nibbo (3 Nov 2009)

OPJ":3ex2h34w said:


> I really like the look of those octagonal legs.
> 
> By the way, is that mitre saw the DW712? Is it really as accurate as DeWalt claim?



Yes it is, I've had mine about five years, everyone said the slide bearings would wear allowing the blade to deviate from being true,but mine is still precise.


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## TrimTheKing (3 Nov 2009)

I'm liking this WIP, more, more, more!


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## Mattty (3 Nov 2009)

OPJ":2awhvdy7 said:


> I really like the look of those octagonal legs.
> 
> By the way, is that mitre saw the DW712? Is it really as accurate as DeWalt claim?



Thanks Olly.

I really like the Dw712. I've had it for about 7 years. As LN said it is very accurate, and very consistent. I recently gave mine a full strip down and reset the gauges and it's like new.

I'm suprised your not as keen on your Bosch. All the bosch stuff i have had has been pretty decent.


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## Mattty (3 Nov 2009)

Day 3- Ok not much to report today. I have a decking job on tomorrow so spent much of the day loading gear in the van and i gave the workshop a big move around (i have moved machines in my shop so many times, today i moved all the extractors upstairs and ran new ducting, it's now great i'm really happy with the layout and have quite a bit more space.

Tidy shop-














I started on the desks around 2, i un clamped the Cherry top and whacked that through the drum sander-





All the leg and frame components got a quick clean over with 220g and i masked off for gluing up, and i got 1 pair of end frames glued up-





All being well i'll be back on this on Thursday.


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## Mr Ed (3 Nov 2009)

I quite like the sound of your workload - decking jobs, bits of furniture ; its a nice varied combination. Better than cocking around building supermarkets which is what I'm doing at the moment. Hey Ho.

(Project looks good as well)

Ed


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## wizer (3 Nov 2009)

I dunno, I wouldn't want to be decking in this weather.

Matt can you please stop posting pics of your workshop. The drool is damaging my laptop. :roll: :lol:


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## OPJ (3 Nov 2009)

Mattty":1r3oj19o said:


> I really like the Dw712. I've had it for about 7 years. As LN said it is very accurate, and very consistent. I recently gave mine a full strip down and reset the gauges and it's like new.
> 
> I'm suprised your not as keen on your Bosch. All the bosch stuff i have had has been pretty decent.



Thanks, Mattty.

That DW712 caught my eye some time ago. Other people have told me it will crosscut up to 300mm wide with absolute accuracy and, well, I guess you'd also tell me the same! The only thing I find limiting is the 70mm depth of cut, as I work with 3in. sawn timber (quite often 81mm thick!). That's why I'm also seriously considering the recent DW717 - which has been offered to me by a friend... If only I could sell my Bosch! 

I am generally a fan of Bosch power tools. I haven't found much to complain about with any of their sanders that I own and I've also used a couple of their routers at college. This 12in. saw though, it really isn't accurate enough for me. You can slide all the way back and it wobbles :? - only slightly but, it's enough to throw off most cuts. If you look at the design and build quality, it looks frighteningly similar to some of the cheaper saws on the market (SIP and Evolution Rage are the two which come to mind). I had a bloke visit me today but I could demonstrate to him that it was accurate enough for what he wanted! :x I've tried a lot of tricks and tips to get it cutting more accurately but, it's just not happening. For the moment, I seem to be, frustratingly, stuck with it... 

Er, sorry - back to your table! 

That's a very well organised workshop although, I think you could do with somewhere to store your timber!  Is it solely your space or do you rent out/share with someone else?


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## wizer (3 Nov 2009)

Olly, my Bosch 10" does not wobble at any point along it's reach. That said, it can't make a decent enough mitre. Good enough for first fix joinery tho.


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## Mattty (3 Nov 2009)

OPJ":1ca77zcf said:


> Mattty":1ca77zcf said:
> 
> 
> > I really like the Dw712. I've had it for about 7 years. As LN said it is very accurate, and very consistent. I recently gave mine a full strip down and reset the gauges and it's like new.
> ...



Olly mine is old so maybe different but i have a depth of cut of around 100mm. It has a 300mm blade so that seems about right.


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## Mattty (3 Nov 2009)

OPJ":3gej71y2 said:


> Mattty":3gej71y2 said:
> 
> 
> > Er, sorry - back to your table!
> ...


Olly it's all mine .

Timber wise i have a loft which is overloaded with around 2m3 of hardwood, and in the yard in front is around 10m3. In the main workshop around 3m3.. I have a problem!


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## OPJ (3 Nov 2009)

wizer":o4xphatc said:


> Olly, my Bosch 10" does not wobble at any point along it's reach. That said, it can't make a decent enough mitre. Good enough for first fix joinery tho.



Wobble is probably the wrong word... What I mean to say is that you can easily nudge the saw head from side to side (the bracket that takes the sliding rails almost pivots).

I was originally looking for the 10in. model as I know Steve Maskery is a fan of them and I do like Bosch tools. But, the GCM 12 SD came up first on eBay and, well, you know... :roll:

The DW712 I'm thinking has a 216mm blade... It must be totally different? :-s


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## Mattty (3 Nov 2009)

Sorry olly. i think mine is maybe a 718.. i'm not good on model numbers.


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## Ironballs (3 Nov 2009)

Nice looking shop Matty, if you need help with your wood problem just let me know...

Actually, that didn't sound right. Timber, not wood, timber


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## jhwbigley (3 Nov 2009)

Ironballs":fovgmsjc said:


> , if you need help with your wood problem just let me know...



i'm told Doctors an expert on that....


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## TrimTheKing (3 Nov 2009)

Ironballs":1ycibbfy said:


> if you need help with your wood problem just let me know...


LOL, are you Pele in disguise?


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## jhwbigley (3 Nov 2009)

Nice workshop mattty, whats that sliding table like on the sedgwick?

JHB


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## Mattty (3 Nov 2009)

Ironballs":jt3d7pf5 said:


> Nice looking shop Matty, if you need help with your wood problem just let me know...
> 
> Actually, that didn't sound right. Timber, not wood, timber



What problem? You can't prove anything.. have you been talking to my missus?


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## Mattty (3 Nov 2009)

jhwbigley":2taq0n2h said:


> Nice workshop mattty, whats that sliding table like on the sedgwick?
> 
> JHB



dung mate. Cracking general saw, but the slider is clunky and not suitable for very accurate use.


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## Benchwayze (4 Nov 2009)

Matty, 
This WIP ought to be on a DVD, so next time you have to make a table, think about it! 

Nice one. 
John


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## jhwbigley (4 Nov 2009)

Mattty":3beweouz said:


> jhwbigley":3beweouz said:
> 
> 
> > Nice workshop mattty, whats that sliding table like on the sedgwick?
> ...



oh, we have a 405 sedgwick at college, blade sort of "jumps" on start up and shut down. i feel my little startrite is more accurate.

JHB


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## Mattty (5 Nov 2009)

Ok- Latest update. I've had 1 1/2 Days getting drenched on a decking job. Back in the workshop at 10am today and a bit of progress. 

I had a piece of walnut delivered, so i machined and jointed that for the other desk top-



This is the underside.
It had a lot of sapwood which i would normally try and cut out but couldn't with the quantity i had. I'm not sure i'm going to be happy when it's got its finish on. I may have to change it :-(

I got the the the other pair of end frames glued up and then did the full glue up using the pair already dry-













I made a template for where the tops are cut around the leg-





After lunch, i glued the second desk frame together-





The Walnut top was stuck though the drum sander and then both tops where croos cut and ripped to there finished size-





Using the template made earlier i marked the waste and cut out on the bandsaw-





Then onto the routing









The rounded internal corners where pared to a neat corner and a quick trial fit. There should be a 3mm shadow gap around the leg-





Getting there now, the top has a 3mm chamfer top and bottom all round and is cleaned up to 220g. The draw front/rail is clamped in place for a quick look-





The client has requested an oil finish, I had picked up a litre of Morrells new oil finish (it's apparently v similar to Osmo polyx) and coated a few samples to see what it's like. 

Tomorrow, i'll finish the other top, make and fit the drawers, sand everything down and hopefully get a coat of oil on both desks..TBC


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## xy mosian (5 Nov 2009)

Matty, what a beautifully elegant table. I don't know who that big guy is  but he should be chuffed!

xy


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## Mr Ed (5 Nov 2009)

I like the detail where the top meets the leg

Ed


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## JonnyD (5 Nov 2009)

Coming along nicely matty. 

I like the shadow gap around the legs any seasonal movement might muck up your precise work though. I have got a table with a similar cut out at home and the gap gets looser and tighter with the changing seasons. Doesnt bother me though. 

It will be interesting to here how you get with the morells oil.

Cheers

Jon


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## OPJ (5 Nov 2009)

Very nice. 

Could you not try staining the sapwood before you oil it?


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## Mattty (5 Nov 2009)

xy mosian":38i6u6u1 said:


> Matty, what a beautifully elegant table. I don't know who that big guy is  but he should be chuffed!
> 
> xy



Thanks mate. You got me though- What big guy?


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## Mattty (5 Nov 2009)

JonnyD":2mntuya7 said:


> Coming along nicely matty.
> 
> I like the shadow gap around the legs any seasonal movement might muck up your precise work though. I have got a table with a similar cut out at home and the gap gets looser and tighter with the changing seasons. Doesnt bother me though.
> 
> ...



Yeah it may well do Jonny. I had planed to fix the front edge and have the buttons take all the movement from the back.
The oil went on very nice, it's very thin and watery. We'll see what it looks like in abotu 12 hours.


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## Mattty (5 Nov 2009)

OPJ":2nh91ibd said:


> Very nice.
> 
> Could you not try staining the sapwood before you oil it?


I hadn't thought of that Olly. I confess though, i would probably rather either leave it or start fresh on this one. I tend to trade on selling the natural materials/look of timber and avoid stain where possible.

What stain would you have suggested?


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## Mattty (5 Nov 2009)

Thanks for all the other comments. I do have a few issues with the build and design thus far. 
It has to be a stong table due to the weight it will carry, but i'd rather some of the details where a little more delicate- the top look's heavy, i may try and increase the chamfer a little to see if it lightens the look a little. Likewise the legs look a little fatter than i'd like, but i won't be changing anything there.


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## Mattty (5 Nov 2009)

EdSutton":2dyuguhw said:


> I like the detail where the top meets the leg
> 
> Ed


I really like your wifes bagels


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## Mr Ed (5 Nov 2009)

A bigger chamfer like these;







would lighten the edges and also casts a nice shadow onto the lower edge of the top.

Ed


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## Mr Ed (5 Nov 2009)

Mattty":3iibwa5f said:


> EdSutton":3iibwa5f said:
> 
> 
> > I like the detail where the top meets the leg
> ...



I trust theres no euphemism in there that I don't get... :shock: and you are referring to our blog

Ed


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## Mattty (5 Nov 2009)

There lovely tables Ed. I remember seeing them before. With this design i don't have that kind of overhang, I only have 4mm on the sides and upto 10mm on the front. That is what i meant though in terms of making it look lighter. It's amazing the difference a simple edge treatment can make to a piece

This is a shelf/drawer i made a few moths ago with a tapered chamfered edge. It has the effect of making the shelf look curved ie higher at each end when it was mounted on the wall.


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## Mattty (5 Nov 2009)

EdSutton":2nhj3s3l said:


> Mattty":2nhj3s3l said:
> 
> 
> > EdSutton":2nhj3s3l said:
> ...


You trust correctly. Me and the kids made some a couple of weeks ago. The sugar/cinnamon ones where great. we made about 16. They were gone in one sitting.


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## Mr Ed (5 Nov 2009)

Mattty":3akbl2w0 said:


> There lovely tables Ed. I remember seeing them before. With this design i don't have that kind of overhang, I only have 4mm on the sides and upto 10mm on the front.



You could still get the size of chamfer I'm talking about, even without the bigger overhang - it looks as though theres room across the front of your table.

I like the shelf with the optical illusion curve - might nick that idea...

Ed


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## Mattty (5 Nov 2009)

Yeah i agree, the front is where i could do it. I may have a little plane at it tomorrow.


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## Ironballs (5 Nov 2009)

I like the tapered chamfer, trying to find the right project to use it on as it's quite similar to the technique the Barnsley Workshop chaps use


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## OPJ (5 Nov 2009)

Mattty":18m1jod8 said:


> I hadn't thought of that Olly. I confess though, i would probably rather either leave it or start fresh on this one. I tend to trade on selling the natural materials/look of timber and avoid stain where possible.
> 
> What stain would you have suggested?



Fair enough. Staining can lead to all sorts of trouble! :? :wink:

Assuming this is one the underside then, yes, I'd also be inclined to leave it as it will very rarely (if ever) be seen (as much as I hate including sapwood in furniture with the risk of infestation).

As for a stain, I wouldn't really know what to suggest. Although, "walnut" would be a good guess...  Again, if it's on the underside then, I suppose almost anything would do, provided it 'looks' dark enough, without contrasting against the rest of the piece. I've used Chestnut's spirit stains and they are _very_ fast drying, which makes it tricky to get an even coverage over a larger surface area (unless you spray?). What is good about their range is that they produce a samples pack.

From the two brands I've used at home, I'd have to say I prefer the stuff from Colron (you should be able to find it in one of the DIY sheds). It is also spirit-based and dries relatively quickly. But, for some reason, it spreads more evenly and almost feels like a thin oil finish. I used some 'Georgian Mid Oak' on an oak dining table recently and the results were excellent.


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## Benchwayze (6 Nov 2009)

Mattty":17arexzm said:


> I've had 1 1/2 Days getting drenched on a decking job.
> TBC



Hi Matty, 

I sometimes have to work on the drive outside my shop. I used one of those portable 'gazebos' from the garden. As long as it isn't too windy, it keeps me more or less dry and comfy. Maybe you could find room for one in your van/boot?  

Nice project I am watching with interest. 

Regards
John


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## woodbloke (6 Nov 2009)

Nice looking project so far...shame about the sap :x on the top (not saying anything else) - Rob


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## TrimTheKing (6 Nov 2009)

Hi Mattty

I'm enjoying this WIP, cheers.

I have a couple of comments if that's okay.

Firstly I agree with other comments on deepening the chanfer on the tops to lighten it a touch.

Secondly, I love the detail of the top around the legs but I think the 90deg corners don't seem to fit so well with the shaping of the octagonal legs. I would be tempted to knock off the 90deg corners to 45deg where the change in angle of the leg meets the 90deg of the tabletop (see the black lines on the pic as that shows better than my words...). I think this would blend the transition of the top around the legs in a more flowing way.






Cheers

Mark


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## Mattty (6 Nov 2009)

Thanks for the comments guys, much appreciated. 
Comment away Rob, i generally share your dislike of sap and am not happy with the top. New walnut is on it's way.


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## Mattty (6 Nov 2009)

TrimTheKing":2y0rc1w3 said:


> Hi Mattty
> 
> I'm enjoying this WIP, cheers.
> 
> ...



Thanks Mark. Thats exactly what i've done. 

I'll update later- gotta do the bonfire thing with the kids.


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## Mattty (7 Nov 2009)

Latest update from Friday-

In the workshop at 8am- Got the woodburner going and kettle on then head down for work. The first job was the final machining of the drawer components- The draw sides and back being 9mm Walnut and the front 19mm spalted Beech-






The parts for each drawer were cut and trimmed to size and the drawer fronts and sides cut and fitted-









The 2 frames now got a final final rub down and into the finishing room. They both got a coat of this applied very thinly with a brush-









Back to the drawers- Thin traditional ones on this piece, all componets where marked up and the tails were cut in pairs-




The pins marked out off the tails-




The rear pins waste sawn out with a small jewellers saw, then pared down to the scribe line-




Dry fitted- I just knock them together a few mill to check they will go and then they are ready for glue-





All the internal surfaces where then sanded and the joints glued up. No clamps required her, just very tight joints.
Whilst the drawers were drying the 2 pieces of Oak for the drawer bottoms where shot and jointed-



This is at 13mm and will be put through the speed sander down to 12mm.

I also made the drawer slips from plain Beech-




These are 13mm high and 15mm wide. The groove is 6mm square and the top surface has a little cove detail. 
I made quite a few lengths so i can use them on my next job as well, they were a little time consuming. 
All routing done on a cheapo B & Q router table. I have a bigger, expensive one and a vice mounted one also, but i often turn to this cheap one though, it's especiall useful at these smaller mouldings.

The drawer slips where all cut and mitred to fit in the drawers-




The back of the slip is notched around the drawer back




The drawer bottoms where sanded to the finished thickness and cut to size. They were then rebated on 3 edges to fit the slips. This was done on the spindle moulder. 





Thats as far as i got yesterday. I have about 4ish hours work left. I'll post the final report when it's done.


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## Mr Ed (7 Nov 2009)

Looking good mate - the drawer slips are very flash!

Ed


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## OPJ (7 Nov 2009)

Yep, I'm really liking the cove-detail on those drawers slips. There are many situations where you can get away with using walnut for the drawer _sides_ - however, with the spalted beech front, I'll give you the benefit of the doubt as you seem to know what you're doing elsewhere!! :wink: 

Actually, I'm not yet clear on how the slips notch around the drawer back - doesn't that mean the bases won't finish flush on top? Or, even with the rebates, you wouldn't be able to slide them in... Sorry, it's probably just me as this is an approach I haven't seen before.


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## Mattty (7 Nov 2009)

OPJ":2g98tau0 said:


> Yep, I'm really liking the cove-detail on those drawers slips. There are many situations where you can get away with using walnut for the drawer _sides_ - however, with the spalted beech front, I'll give you the benefit of the doubt as you seem to know what you're doing elsewhere!! :wink:
> 
> Actually, I'm not yet clear on how the slips notch around the drawer back - doesn't that mean the bases won't finish flush on top? Or, even with the rebates, you wouldn't be able to slide them in... Sorry, it's probably just me as this is an approach I haven't seen before.



Hi Olly. Thanks for the comments. Yes the bottom will be 6mm down from the top of the slips. I have done the other way but am less keen on the small gap around the drawer bottom were it meets the slips.

From another thread i seem to remember you mentioned you prefered light sides and a dark front. I've chosen walnut sides as a strong contrast to the Beech front so the handcut dovetails stand out visually. Is there another reason i don't know about why you wouldn't use Walnut for drawer sides? 
I had planned on Cedar of Lebanon for the drawer bottoms, this would be my normal choice, I thought i had a plank but it wasn't there when i went looking.


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## OPJ (7 Nov 2009)

All I meant with my comment on the drawers sides is that walnut is a beautiful timber timber in its own right and you wouldn't normally 'relegate' to being hidden inside the construction for 50% of the time. That's certainly not to suggest that it isn't tough enough for the sides. There's no problem with light pins, either; it's down to personal preference. 

...If we all made everything exactly the same here way here, it would be a pretty boring forum, wouldn't it!! 

Don't worry, I'm sure that plank of cedar will turn up one day when you least expect it! :wink:

Actually, I reckon those coves could work very well - might be a place to stores the odd pen or pencil and stop it rolling around the drawer!


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## Mattty (7 Nov 2009)

OPJ":8ongepcm said:


> All I meant with my comment on the drawers sides is that walnut is a beautiful timber timber in its own right and you wouldn't normally 'relegate' to being hidden inside the construction for 50% of the time. That's certainly not to suggest that it isn't tough enough for the sides. There's no problem with light pins, either; it's down to personal preference.
> 
> ...If we all made everything exactly the same here way here, it would be a pretty boring forum, wouldn't it!!
> 
> ...



Phew.. i thought you knew something i didn't about walnut! Your right about design to, it is very subjective. I'll sell the idea of the pencil holder next time i'm pricing. lol. Cheers Ol.


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## Mattty (9 Nov 2009)

Desks done- Update to come tomorrow. 

I went to the auctions today and treated myself to this-




And for some reason also bought this-


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## wizer (9 Nov 2009)

Is that an overhead router? What will you use that for? I've always looked at them and wondered what use they are?


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## Ironballs (9 Nov 2009)

We've used one in college and they are quite useful as you can see what you're doing rather than it all being underneath - like when you hand hold a router, but fixed.

They are however, the loudest machines in the shop and sound like a billion mice simultaneously having their nuts removed. Ear protection advised


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## Mattty (9 Nov 2009)

Like Ib said. Though it's a bit of a punt really Wizzy. The main use for me will be template work, there is a pop up pin in the table directly below the chuck for that purpose.


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## Mattty (10 Nov 2009)

Ok, desks moved into my house for a temporary store until delivery.

The drawers were completed last time, the only thing to do was the drawer handle. I made a late decision to cut out na finger pull on the front drawer rail.
I made an MDF template and coped out the rough





The remaining waste was then trimmed out with the router and temolate cutter





The drawes were then final fitted with the tops off (much easier) and the drawer bottoms fitted to the slips





A slight cock up somewhere left me with only 3mm on the top edge of this drawer front dovetail-





Everything oiled again-








This sappy top is being replaced.





The finished articles-





























Thanks to everyone for the comments and for looking


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## Karl (10 Nov 2009)

Very nice Matty. 

I reckon the next Northern Bash should be at your workshop - looks very droolworthy!

Cheers

Karl


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## promhandicam (10 Nov 2009)

Proper job mate. I must admit I prefer the look of the one with the cherry top - the bit of wood that you picked for the front really sets it off.

Steve


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## Ironballs (10 Nov 2009)

Excellent work and a high level of accuracy in the finish, I hope you can save the middle board from the sappy top as it looks fantastic.

Agree with Karl about the next bash, dead handy for me too


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## JonnyD (10 Nov 2009)

Nice work Mattty. Finished Tables look great. 

Cheers

Jon


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## xy mosian (10 Nov 2009)

Well done Matty super work.

xy


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## OPJ (10 Nov 2009)

Nicely done. Those chamfers around the legs came out well.


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## BradNaylor (11 Nov 2009)

Lovely work, Matt.

I'm really impressed by the way you've made the transition from builder to furniture maker in less than a year. I reckon you, me, and Jonny are going to have to give that Nibbo bloke a run in the next competition...


...judging by our speed though, we'll be able to enter about six pieces each!

:lol: 

Brad


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## MikeG. (11 Nov 2009)

BradNaylor":18ry8adv said:


> I reckon you, me, and Jonny are going to have to give that Nibbo bloke a run in the next competition...
> Brad



Don't bother. He's mine for the taking next year........    

Very nice work Matty, very nice.

Mike


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## Mattty (11 Nov 2009)

BradNaylor":38shcb4f said:


> Lovely work, Matt.
> 
> I'm really impressed by the way you've made the transition from builder to furniture maker in less than a year. I reckon you, me, and Jonny are going to have to give that Nibbo bloke a run in the next competition...
> 
> ...



The original transition from Joiner/Cabinet maker to Builder was a lot harder 
Yes i think we should all have a go in the comp next year. Hopefully he will have a bit of company on the podium, though he will probably still be on the top step!


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## Mattty (11 Nov 2009)

Thanks for all the comments. All very much appreciated.


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## Mr Ed (11 Nov 2009)

Excellent job Matty. I like the fact that you took the time to include some design features that are above and beyond the basic requirement, which starts to take the work into the higher bracket in my view.

Conversely, I think you need to spend a bit more time on the photos to show the quality of the work at its best.

Cheers, Ed


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## Mattty (11 Nov 2009)

EdSutton":1f9ejcuy said:


> Excellent job Matty. I like the fact that you took the time to include some design features that are above and beyond the basic requirement, which starts to take the work into the higher bracket in my view.
> 
> Conversely, I think you need to spend a bit more time on the photos to show the quality of the work at its best.
> 
> Cheers, Ed



Thanks Ed,

I totally agree about my photography skills. It's a learning curve which i haven't even stepped on yet, though i have often thought of doing. Moving forward it is an area where i will either be paying a pro or being better set up and educated myself. I would be delighted to be half the photographer you are.


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