# Small desk for writing



## DavidE (15 Feb 2008)

Hi there,
I'm currently looking a making a small writing desk for someone. The main criteria is it needs to be about 3' x 2'. I'm still looking at the height, I'm thinking around 28 1/2" for the surface though I'm still looking into this and I'm open to suggestions.

I've looked round the net at photos for some inspiration. This is what I've come up with so far...







Has anyone built anything similar or have any tips or observations on this design? I want the wood to speak so I'm trying to keep it simple - it will be Pitch Pine. 

My other concern is how to do the top. I quite like the look of the end grain on this wood and I'm tempted to leave it. I'll probably just radius the edge. Am I asking for warping trouble doing this though? In my favour the wood is very well seasoned as it is recycled and I also have experience of a lid I've made out of the same wood. That is only 3/8" thick and has not made any attempt to move yet (it's been in about 7 months).

I added the lower braces as I felt it looked flimsy without. I'm not adverse to turning legs, however, in this case I quite like the tapered look.

Thanks,
David


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## Les1693 (20 Feb 2008)

David, the design looks ok to me.

I think 29" is the standard height for a desk. The top can made with 4 X 6" boards buscuited together although 3/8" seems a bit on the thin side to me, I would go for 3/4". I personally would finish the top off with a ogee bit on the front and 2 sides. Watch out for burning though on the end grain.

I would also keep the depth of the front rail to 4" to allow for leg room.

The legs would look nice tapered, from just below the front and side rails and on the 2 inside faces only.

I'm sure the others will have completely different ideas.

Les


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## DavidE (20 Feb 2008)

Hi Les,

Thanks for your reply and feedback.

You make a good point about the legs tapering from the rails down and not before. That makes a lot of sense.

Sorry I wrote it really badly about the top thickness. I'm intending on around 21mm as that is what I can get out of the boards I've got. I mentioned the 3/8" as that is from a separate project where it was just a lid. I've been watching for any movement and so far it has been fine. That gives me some confidence that bread board ends are probably not needed.
Regarding the top... would book matched boards be a bad idea from the point of view of movement as the growth rings may be inclined to cause cupping?

I like your Ogee suggestion. I think I will have to look through some profiles and choose the one that jumps out. I will end up putting a micro radius on all the legs as the pitch pine is quite brittle and sharp edges can tend to get knocked.

Thanks, David


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## Wanlock Dod (22 Feb 2008)

David,

My work desk is the same depth as you propose (about 2 feet), and I find it a bit on the small side. For occasional working, or those with somewhat tidier working practices, it's probably fine.

I think that breadboard ends are probably quite unnecessary (provided that the wood is well equilibrated), although I rather like them as a design element. I made a kitchen table with breadboard ends and probably about half of the total construction time was fitting the breadboards though.

I think your proposed design looks good, although as Les has mentioned the depth of the bottom rail and the height of the top need to be kept in mind in terms of leg room.

Cheers,

Dod


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## DavidE (22 Feb 2008)

Hi Dod,

Thanks for your thoughts. I know what you mean about the 2'. However, in this case it is for a small study so I am constrained to this size. 

The leg room is one of my concerns and I will spend some time drawing it again this weekend and trying a few chairs out with a desk and simulated rail depth.

I'm glad the consensus so far is against Bread board ends as - it will make things a lot simpler (backed up by what you said about time).

Cheers
David


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