# FINISHED - Multi-function workbench WIP



## Krysstel

A new workbench has been on the cards for a long time but now after finally completing all my pre-winter punch-points and with a 3-day weekend coming up with no other commitments the time’s now right.

With my very limited space I had to come up with something that was not only small, but also multi-functional. The solution I ended up with was to combine a mitre saw table, vise-bench and storage cupboards in one unit. The construction I’m planning is actually two separate benches joined together by a sunken saw table in the middle. Legs will be 2x4 sandwiched between two layers of 12mm ply. Rails (or are they stretchers ?) from 2x3. Tops; two layers of 19mm MDF lipped with 28mm beech aprons. They’ll be drawers under the vise and cupboard doors on the fronts. They’ll also be backs on the cupboards in 12mm ply to add stability to the whole construction. I’m also planning to make the SCMS quick-detachable and it’ll store in the cupboard directly under and be replaced by a loose bench top section that’ll then give me a flat, continuous worktop when needed.






This will incorporate everything that currently resides along the opposite wall and free up that area for a forthcoming P/T and a whole wall of screw/bolt/odds-n-ends drawers.





Obviously this design is full of compromises, not least of all having the vise only 1 meter from the end of the bench, but hopefully it’ll be a vast improvement on my current setup.
We’ll see ………





Edit - fixed picture sizes.


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## jlawrence

Your idea is very similar to what I have. Mine wasn't designed as such it just sort of ended up like that. Seems to work reasonably well though.
Try and design your scms fence to be detachable or you end up losing a lot of bench space.


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## Mekkemikkel

Hello Mark! 

Waiting impatient for pictures and a update on your progress in your bachelor weekend! 

Guess you're working all day...


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## Krysstel

Managed to make some progress during the weekend despite a stinking cold. No pictures of piles of uncut sheet and lengths of 2x4 but here I've finished cutting the framework parts to exact length and marked all the lap joints etc





I cut the lap joints on the table saw, two at a time, using my cross-cut jig - not something I've tried before. Worked great and I was *very* careful :wink: 





And cleaned then up on the router table using a 52mm long straight cutter.





To make the sandwhich construction I was planning for the legs I cut two rebates for the 12mm ply sides in each 2x4 leg. I also cut a rebate in each rear leg for the cupboard backs which will also be 12mm ply.





And here we have a complete pair of legs ready for their ply "skins"





Dry assembly of one framework. Here you can see how the legs went together with the ply sides which were glued and screwed in the rebates.





To give me something to screw shelf batterns and the mitre saw shelf to; I also closed off the tops and bottoms of each leg assembly with 150mm wide strips of ply glued and screwed between the ply sides. This made a very rigid assembly. 





Both frameworks completed and glued/screwed and trial positioned along wall. Here you can also see where I've added the drawer/cupboard side on the right hand bench (two layers of ply rebated into the rails) and started the vise mounting arrangement. You can also just see that the bottom rails will be lap jointed together in the middle when everything else is complete.



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And that's where I am now.
Next up is to glue and screw the ply backs and complete the vise mounting assembly before moving on to the mitre saw shelf that'll tie the whole thing together.

Thanks for watching !
Mark


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## Chems

Coming along nicely that is!

So your going to move a few other tools onto the work surface so you have space elsewhere for a PT, is that the plan?

One thing I'd add if it was me, some sort of kick board so all the dust and bits you drop can't get underneath the units.


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## Krysstel

They'll be cupboards under both benches which I hope will hide all the power tools currently on the open shelves and keep them dust free. The mitre saw will reside either on the sunken mid section or in the cupboard in the middle which I've sized to take it. Under the vise they'll be drawers.
The Dewalt stand will be kicked out to the garage and the PT will be mounted on a wheeled stand where the saw is now.
I have no plans to move tools on to the new work surface :shock:  

Mark


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## Chems

Oh I see your removing that long top you have, I thought you were putting it in the place the mitre saw was in now.


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## Krysstel

Yes, that's it exactly, sorry if it was a bit unclear. The long top and cupboards under are gone and the SCMS is going in/on the new bench along the same wall. The PT will be where I have the saw/stand now.

Mark


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## Mekkemikkel

Looking very good so far. I think this will be a solid construction! 

Smart move to use the router to clean up the joints. Taking notes... 8) 

My vise has arrived in Oslo already, so maybe i have to start om my bench soon..


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## Krysstel

Managed to get a bit more done last night.
Cut the 12mm ply cupboard backs to size and glued and screwed them in their rebates + added Axminster adjusteble feet to each leg. 





Also completed the vise mounting arrangement. Two batterns cut from the 22mm pine floorboards taken from the old bench top are screwed and glued to the cupboard sides. These support a short length of 2x4 which I'll glue and screw in place tomorrow. The vise will then be bolted in place underneath. The idea with this is that it'll avoid having the mounting bolts through the worktop. I also added a 22mm front apron either side of the rear jaw and an equivalent across the left hand bench front. When the tops are in place their beech front aprons will then cover the rear jaw and the extra 22mm apron I've added now - if you see what I mean :?  





That's it for today.
Mark


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## Mekkemikkel

Not sure if I got the idea about how your going to bolt the vise, but sure ill see when your done! 

Are the sides with 2x12mm ply a bit overkill, or do you think its required to get the wanted rigidity?


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## Krysstel

All will become clear regarding the vise mounting when I take some more pictures, however the general idea is avoiding unsightly bolt heads in the working top by attaching the vise only to the framework.  

I got the idea for the sandwich sides from the construction industry. Isn't that roughly how they make enormously strong I-beams from wood ? :wink: 
With the two 2x4 legs sandwiched between two layers of ply rebated into the legs and both glued and screwed I've ended up with a relatively light weight construction that was both easy to make and very strong. It's possible I could have used thinner ply but there wouldn't have been much saving cost wise.


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## Krysstel

I got the vise mounted the other evening. As you can see; the rear jaw is recessed flush into the front of the framework and will be covered by the beech front apron when I attach the MDF tops. I'll also recess the protruding top of the rear jaw and the coach bolt heads into the underside of the MDF top thus giving a completely clean bench top.





After getting the vise mounting finished I decided it was time to temporarily position both benches before going any further - and I'm glad I did ! I knew the concrete floor was uneven, hence the adustable feet, but had no idea it was a ski slope. As the picture shows; the floor slopes almost 3cm from left to right over a length of 2.6m :shock: 
After an hour with a spirit level I got everything exactly level but the benches now look like they're standing on stilts !! This won't do, horrible.
Note the inner most, back, left foot that's adjusted almost all the way in, and compare it with the one nearest the camera and you'll see what I mean !




Not only does it look ridiculous but the benches are now also far from being the solid, stable constructions I'd envisaged.
After mulling it over on and off for most of Thursday I finally decided the only sensible solution is to cast a new, flat concrete plinth over the whole area and then stand the benches on top. The only other way is to hack off each leg at different lengths 
So that's the next step. Two steps forward, one step back it's known as.
Anyway, other commitments mean they'll be no more bench building before earliest next Monday so I've got some time to think about this some more.

Mark


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## BigMac

Would it not be an option to put in a wooden (chipboard or ply) floor?

I suppose its not easy sloped but maybe cheaper than a concrete floor and AIUI a wooden floor is more comfortable to stand on for long periods. You could also stick some insulation under it.


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## Racers

Hi,

Why not measure the gaps and fit blocks under each leg.

Pete


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## Krysstel

I'm only going to cast a plinth under the area of the bench not over the whole floor. With only 2 meter roof height I'd be hitting my head if I build the floor up any more  
The cellar floor is dry, almost, but not dry enough to risk covering it with a wooden floor :wink: 
No, I think concrete is the way to go, and cost wise I think it'll be quite cheap. We're only talking about maybe 5cm, ie; a couple of 25kg bags of ready mixed should do it.

Mark


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## BigShot

I wonder, might a level top and sloping floor cause problems when (for example) planing a long piece?
I dunno, but thought going uphill or downhill might affect the work.

Maybe not, but something to consider.

If you only intend to level the floor, maybe you could put in a level area to stand on, that way you'd have level floor, level bench, and if there's enough headroom at the top of the slope now, maybe you'll have enough room at the current bottom of the slope once it's been levelled.

Just a thought.

Good luck either way. Cheers for the progress reports.


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## Jervisekken

Nice work Mark. A pity with your floor. A wooden floor would be nicer, but probably best to go the safe way with concrete.
I chose to go the traditional way with my bench: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=35321


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## Krysstel

Thanks for all the good suggestions but I think casting a plinth is the way I've decided to go. This should give the bench the solid feel I'm looking for and if I manage to do the concreting properly maybe I can despence with the Axi feet all together !
In the last picture I posted you can see that the floor is realtively flat under the right hand side of the bench but slopes up at the far (left) hand. Since the vise is mounted on the right hand bench I shouldn't have an issue with walking along a floor that is on a slope to the bench.


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## LarryS.

maybe worth using self levelling compund rather than normal concrete


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## Krysstel

Yes, I thought of that but I'd be worried about it cracking if I was being particulary brutal with something on the bench. Concrete should put up with anything I throw at it since the concrete floor already does


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## LarryS.

good point


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## Krysstel

Four 25kg sacks of ready mixed concrete and hhe floor area where the benches will stand is now dead flat


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## Chems

Thats some serious lengths to go to for a flat work surface!

You will be leaving the wood in place to protect the edges, as with out them its likely to get chipped away over time?


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## Krysstel

Chems":3dvyrl6u said:


> Thats some serious lengths to go to for a flat work surface!
> 
> You will be leaving the wood in place to protect the edges, as with out them its likely to get chipped away over time?



Oh no I won't be :shock:  
The outside edge of the concrete plinth is exactly along the line of the bench fronts so I hope it won't cause a problem. I could of course glue some nice quarter-round bathroom tiles along the edge as extra protection. Now that's a good idea 

I agree that this was overkill, but the only alternatives I (and others) came up with were hacking off the legs at different lengths, putting blocks under each leg or using self levelling compound. I think the cast concrete plinth was the safest and most permanent solution and it only took me the best part of 1 day to complete it !!!!!!! Still, it's done now and I can continue with the bench knowing that when finished it'll be FLAT. :wink:

More pictures and status report tomorrow morning.

Mark


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## Krysstel

With the concrete plinth drying it was back to bench building Tuesday with the MDF tops next.
After first braking down a sheet of 19mm MDF to 4 pieces, 1cm over size, I then carefully trimmed 1 piece to exact size using a guide rail and my Elu 96 fitted with a straight cutter, making sure all the corners were exactly 90 degrees. I then fixed the “master” to the next piece with double-sided tape and trimmed it back using a panel trim cutter with bottom bearing and the Elu fitted with my homemade extension base. I then had 2 identical pieces, one for each bench top.





Instead of going the traditional route of gluing and loads of clamps I decided to use screws instead. After clamping the master to one of the other oversized sheets I drilled a grid of countersunk holes straight through the top sheet and a couple of millimeters into the second sheet. 





After de-burring all the holes I then spread a good layer of Titebond II, clamped the 2 sheets together and drove in all the 35mm countersunk screws. Same procedure for the second top. After leaving them both for about 2 hours I removed all the clamps and trimmed back, again using the Elu and the same bottom bearing panel trim cutter.





Whilst the tops were drying I cracked on with some other jobs; adding the 12mm ply bases in each cupboard and dimensioning up all the material for the top cappings and aprons etc. Unfortunately the chunk of beech working top I’d planned using proved to be too small but instead I found enough 28mm oak and birch in my stash of kitchen worktop offcuts to make the front and sides in oak and the backs in birch. 





Next up is to bicuit and glue the cappings and aprons in place and fit the tops before I then drag the now very heavy benches up on the concrete plinth and continue with the SCMS table arrangement.

Thanks again for watching  
Mark


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## Mekkemikkel

Looking great! No reason to trust the glue when all the screws will be hidden! 

I really like your way of truing the edges with the router! Have to try that!


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## Krysstel

With the concrete plinth now dry I continued with the MDF tops at the weekend.
After first cutting all the aprons to exact length I attacked them and the edges of the MDF tops with my biscuit jointer and with copious amounts of titebond and lots of clamps glued them in place









Whilst the glue was drying I decided the frameworks would look a lot better with some kind of finishing. Considered dark stain but ended up with 2 coats of dark green (sort of Record Power colour) paint. I think it's a vast improvement over cheap-and-nasty pine !!!
After a good sand I added a slight chamfer to the aprons and screwed the first top to the cupboard/bench frameworks with M6x70 coach screws from underneath. 
First one finished.  









The now (almost) exactly level concrete plint worked really well and after screwing both benches together to one unit I only needed to adjust the feet a bit here and there to get the whole bench exactly plumb and level  





Next job is to complete and fit the left hand top and make an oak front jaw for the vise. After that I'll move on to the SCMS table in the centre.

Mark


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## Chems

Looks brilliant Krysstel!


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## Krysstel

With the left hand bench top finished and fitted during the week I got stuck into the sunken SCMS table and middle bench section today.
The SCMS table I made from 2 layer of 19mm MDF wrapped in 16mm birch and mounted on 2 beech batterns screwed into the bench frameworks (remember how I closed off the tops of each cupboard end/leg assembly). The table protrudes 20mm from the framework at the front in order to cover the top of the doors I'm planning for the saw cupboard.
I also made up 2 oak batterns as supports for the removable bench top. They'll screw and glue to the ends of the left and right benches. After scouring the local hardware shop for some kind of fitting I could use to hold down the middle bench top I finally found some large hinges with removable pivot pins. These I plan to use to secure the bench top to the batterns. To remove the top I'll simply pull out the 4 pins and lift off.






The removable middle bench top I also made from 2 layers of 19mm MDF but this time wrapped in the same 28mm oak I used on the main bench tops. Here it is glued up ready for fitting tomorrow.






And the reason for the whole exercise of relocating the SCMS and scraping it's stand ! My newly acquired Luna/Proofy/Mafell PT.





Thanks for watching again.
Mark


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## Joints

Looks like a nice neat and strong build nice work definately.

One thing though, aren't the point of thoses effing little screw feet to go on an akward floor?


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## Krysstel

Yes, but not that akward ! :shock: 

Mark


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## wobblycogs

Nice build, I look forward to seeing the finished bench. 

I'm currently planning on putting a workshop in our cellar but we have even less head height then you, about 1850mm so I can just stand upright. Do you find the lack of height to be a big problem? I can certainly see it being a problem if I ever want to make a wardrobe for example.

I was also wondering about how damp your cellar is. Ours isn't damp proofed at all but it is normally fairly dry (well it would be if the drain hadn't blocked over the summer and flooded it  ). Do you measure the humidity at all? Last thing I want it for all my tools to go rusty.


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## jlawrence

Krysstel, how are you intending to fix the scms in place. I found that it was easiest to leave it permanently in place rather than continuely removing bolts.


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## Krysstel

Wobblycogs - Actually a bit of an exaggeration to say my cellar i 2 meter high. It's more like 1.85m since I'm 1.83m (6 foot) and can just stand upright. When I've had trouble assembling tall items I usually end up outside or in the garage !
I have a very slight damp problem in the corner behind the bench I'm builiding now. Nothing serious but the white paint has become discoloured over time and it smells a bit musty in that corner. Otherwise the cellar is bone dry and I have absolutely no trouble with tools rusting. The house is from 1921 which is way before anyone thought of damp proofing in Norway ! 
One thing that is a serious issue with the low roof is dust control.

Jlawrence - I've considered various ways of fixing the SCMS but I think I'm now decided on 3/4" mitre track recessed into the top of the table and ratchet handle bolts to hold it down. Hopefully it should then just be a matter of rotating the ratchet handles and sliding the whole assembly off.
Another challenge I've had is fixing down the replacement middle bench top section. Todays idea is rare-earth magnets, but I'm still thinking !!

Anyway, here are 2 pictures showing the now (almost) completed bench with SCMS either stored in it's cupboard or in place on it's table.
All I've got left to do is make a front jaw for the vise + cupboard doors and drawers + finishing.
In the 2nd pic you can see the oak batterns into which I'll probably be recessing some magnets to hold down the extra bench top.


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## Krysstel

One more picture from the side ...............





Thanks for viewing
Mark


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## Mekkemikkel

Great work Mark! 8) 

Whats your plan for the cupboard under the vise? Just wondering sense i can see the concrete there.... 

And do you got any thoughts about dustcollection from the SCMS? Is there enough room behind it?


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## Krysstel

The cupboard under the vise won't be a cupboard but rather 3 drawers.
You can just see that the grey extraction pipes stick out from the saw above the level of the window sill behind. The plan is to run them vertically up to an extraction pipe at ceiling level.


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## Triggaaar

Great work, thanks for sharing


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## wobblycogs

Nice work and thanks for the insights regarding putting a workshop in a cellar. What is the problem with dust control? Obviously a ceiling mounted extractor is out. Is it just a lack of space?


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## Krysstel

The problem is quite simply the lack of volume in the room with such low ceilings. It just seems that the atmosphere is somehow constantly dusty. I hope to cure the problem with a permanently plumbed in extractor system which will run to every machine + possibly a workshop air filter.
Space is a problem but I've become very creative !

Progress on the bench has been rather slow the past week or so due to other commitments, but I have managed to sort out the centre bench top mounting using rare-earth magnets and I've finished the front vise jaw in beech. No pictures though.
Am currently waiting on an order of t-track from Rockler to mount the SCMS with, as mentioned earlier.
In the meantime I've started on the cupboards and drawers and will post further pictures in a coulple of days when I've had some progress that's worth sharing.

Mark


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## Krysstel

Here are the drawers, made from 12 & 6mm ply with fronts made from offcuts of 18mm timbrboard.
The vise front jaw is beech and is attached with 2 coach bolts from the inside with domed nuts on the outside.






Doors are from more 18mm timberboard offcuts with centre panels from 6mm ply finished with melamine lacquer.
All the handles came from Ikea  





The cupboards contain all my power tools, my compressor (in the far left cupboard not shown in the picture) and the SCMS. The right hand cupboard should also have been able to contain the middle bench section, and I sized it accordingly, but I forgot about the door hinges being in the way ! :roll: :evil: 
You can see how it should have been in the close up picture of the drawers.





I've started on the bench-dog holes and finished two in the vise but I'm a bit unsure as to the best spacing both across the bench and lengthwise. I've marked out with 160mm between each along the front, 80mm in.
Can anyone help me here ?
Is there a standard/norm ?

And here's the whole bench as of today. The Rockler t-track has arrived so the next job after the dog holes will be the SCMS mounting arrangement.

Thanks for watching !
Mark


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## Henning

Very nice Mark!

Seems to be absolute maximum workbench to available space- ratio!


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## devonwoody

Nice looking workshop, what are your carpentry intentions for the future?

If they are are to the standard of your workshop construction they will surely be excellent as well.


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## Boz62

Excellent Mark, lovely job. 

Ref the Dogs, I spent a lot of Google time trying to work out the spacing for mine. Everyone thinks differently, there is no standard, although they are often similar. So I then just sat down with a piece of paper and drew it out. 



In my case they were defined by use of a Wonderdog and lamination spacing. Mine are 105mm in from the front edge - works well for me. Spaced 100mm for the Wonderdog. Adequate, means a lot of winding of the Wonderdog thread and not too much hole drilling. I often use packing pieces with the Wonderdog anyway, so not a major issue. For those behind the front vice, although it has a 225mm stroke, I kept it down to 120mm spacing - suited the laminations. Due to the number of laminations, front to back, I actually have one odd spacing of 80mm for the first dog. This works out well with the crossover of the two rows of dogs and provides a closer pair of dogs for lateral workholding. I also have one odd one in the middle at the rear, as it seemed right for me. You can always add other "odd" hole as required while you are working 

Good luck. 

Boz


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## Krysstel

First future project is another bench at the other end of the room !!! Desperately need something to put my new Rexon drill press on (you can glimpse it standing on the floor in one of the earlier pictures)

I'm also working on a design for a dust-cyclone which I really want up and running before I start on anything major. 

The first planned proper project is a TV/media cabinet in birch. Maybe sometime after Christmas if I'm lucky :shock:


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## Krysstel

Great Boz, thanks, that's exactly what I wanted to know.  
I'm planning on wonder-dogs but havn't bought them yet and it was the suitable spacing for them I was worried about.
From your picture it looks like you've only one set of holes behind the front vise although, like me, you've put 2 holes in the front jaw. Why's that ? I was planning 2 rows to match those in the vise jaw but maybe that's unnecessary ?

Thanks for your help
Mark


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## Boz62

Glad it was useful Mark  The jaw isn't shown in my photo - there are 4 rebated holes for mounting the vice, then the single rows of dog holes. The vice is a metal quick release one with a single central (metal to be replaced by beech) dog. Hence the single row of dog-holes. 

100mm is the absolute maximum jaw motion for the Wonderdog. You may want to make the dog hole spacing it less, I've seen people suggesting 70 - 80mm, but if you're using packing pieces anyway....

Boz


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## Krysstel

OK I understand. I have a similar vise but the central metal dog became useless after I mounted a wooden jaw over the front, hence the 2 new dog holes. I'll need 2 rows of holes then, 120mm spacing.

I think I'll go for the 100mm spacing along the bench to cut down the number of holes I'll need to drill ! Obviously the 160mm spacing I'd planned is too much for wonder dogs.

I'll check the distance in from the edge again this eveing but my initial plan of 80mm was to get the holes over the support frame under the bench instead of having holes just straight through the MDF top (38mm thick).

Mark


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## Boz62

OK Mark. The 105mm inset of my front dogs was chosen to (just) clear the legs. I think most people end up fitting the dogs in to suit the bench construction, as well as for usability. It all comes down to finding a satisfactory compromise.

I'd decided to not fully cover the top of the metal vice moving jaw so I've still got room for the integral dog to poke up. 

I fully agree on minimising the number of dog holes to drill - I spread mine over 2 days :shock:. And only now have I worked out a better way of drilling vertically :evil:.

Boz


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## Paul Chapman

Hi Mark,

I have four rows of dog holes on my bench






I find these very useful for holding all sorts of odd shapes, particularly in conjunction with the Veritas bench dogs











But if you are a bit undecided, you can always drill more holes later.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Krysstel

Paul - :shock: :shock: So many holes to drill !

Boz - I know what you mean. It took me about 1/2 an hour per hole in the vise jaw and that was with a brand new Wealden forstner bit specially imported for the job ! I should probably have used one of these http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Sawtooth-Cutters-22801.htm but done is done and paying Axi's postage to Norway for one drill bit is not an option :wink: 
Wealden took £1.50  

Mark


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## Paul Chapman

Krysstel":1hvaw3zu said:


> Paul - :shock: :shock: So many holes to drill !



Yes, but I'd do the same again - they are so useful. I found that it didn't take long. I used a spade bit in my drill, mounted in a drill stand, with the head swung round so that I could place the drill stand on the bench top. My dog holes are 5 1/2" between centres and the rows are 4" apart.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Krysstel

5 1/2" (140mm) between centres ?
And that works OK with wonder-dogs ? 
I thought they needed to be minimum 100mm centre-centre.

I'm using one of these http://www.axminster.co.uk/product....able+drill+guide&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0 with the said forstner bit but I'll give it a go with a spade bit and see if it's a bit easier/quicker (if I've got a 19mm spade that is !)

Mark


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## Boz62

Measured end to end motion on my Wonderdog is 115mm, but the tommy bar won't flip over at the limit, so 100mm is a "comfortable" range to work with.

If you have a guide, excellent, far simpler . I used a sawtooth cutter (Forstner with teeth) as it worked best in beech when I was trying to decide which bit to use. I find all these big bits are better in some applications than in others, so need testing first. 

Boz


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## Paul Chapman

I based the spacing on how far my end vice opens, as I use the dog holes in conjunction with the end vice mainly. I made the spacing a bit less than the vice opening.

There are two types of spade bits. The ones with spurs, like the right-hand one in this picture, work best and cut a cleaner hole






Some of them have a threaded point - I always file this off and make it into a plain point. I find the threaded points quite dangerous as they pull the bit into the wood, whick is OK with a hand brace but not a power drill :shock: 

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Krysstel

Helps a lot, thanks.
I actually ordered the forstner bit without even trying a spade first as I assumed it would just chew up the bench surface on entry. Perhaps a bit stupid of me as I should of course have tried first on a bit of scrap :roll: 
The forstner I've tried is one of these :-
http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Forstner_Bit_303.html

In the beech front jaw it took ages even with a shop-vac sucking away the waste at the same time. :shock:

Mark


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## OPJ

Mark, for what it's worth now, I used a Wood Beaver bit. It's very similar to auger. It cuts with lightening speed and leaves a clean hole as it breaks through the underside! I put three rows of holes in to my 'bench top and there's still loads of life left in the bit. Didn't take too long either. 8)


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## wizer

For my Dog holes I use a 19mm Auger bit in a cordless drill. Works brilliantly.

I must get around to drilling more. I didn't do anywhere near enough.


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## wobblycogs

I've recently been drilling batches of 25 16mm holes through 2 to 3 inch pieces of oak using spade bits and I would highly recommend drilling an 8mm pilot hole first. The first batch without a pilot hole took me 3 to 4 hours, with a pilot hole I could get the lot done in an hour. This was with a cordless drill. The bits with spurs are much more effective and leave a cleaner entry hole. I find that spade bits can cause a lot of breakout on exit though even with spurs. 

The most annoying problem I have is the bit pushing though suddenly on exit and jamming, setting the drill to the highest torque limit helps to stop it from ripping my arm off when that happens. If I was drilling in a more comfortable position, as oppposed to upside down under the floor, that probably wouldn't be such a problem


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## Krysstel

Just a quick update on dog-hole drilling.
I decided on a 2 fold approach. 
First I drilled about 5mm of every hole using the 19mm forstner bit, the Axi drill stand mounted on a quick jig and an electric drill. 
I then changed to a 19mm spade and drilled the whole depth, however after hitting a screw in the third hole I had to change to an 18mm for the other holes  
Finally I changed back to the forstner and reamed out the holes to a nice finish.
Worked great but I only managed 13 of 26 holes in the space of about 2 hours work.

Mark


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## Boz62

Well done Mark. Yes, it's hard work. I looked into Ollie's suggested bits but they seemed far too scary :evil:. Good luck with the rest of them - its worth the effort, just for the lack of clamps for a lot of jobs .

Boz


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## Henning

Krysstel":g4bf20k4 said:


> Just a quick update on dog-hole drilling.
> I decided on a 2 fold approach.
> First I drilled about 5mm of every hole using the 19mm forstner bit, the Axi drill stand mounted on a quick jig and an electric drill.
> I then changed to a 19mm spade and drilled the whole depth, however after hitting a screw in the third hole I had to change to an 18mm for the other holes
> Finally I changed back to the forstner and reamed out the holes to a nice finish.
> Worked great but I only managed 13 of 26 holes in the space of about 2 hours work.
> 
> Mark



Mark, 

I have a couple 19mm. Spade drills if you need. 

Looking very good this far, keep up the good work!


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## Krysstel

A quick question about finishing.
For the bench tops and aprons I'm planning two coats of this followed by two coats of thinned out this after recommendation from Karl's bench.
The problem is it'll be a bit of a job to get the tops off again to finish the underneaths and backs.
Is this really necessary bearing in mind that the tops are 2 layers of titebonded 19mm MDF with 28mm oak aprons on all 4 sides ?
Will I really end up with banana shaped tops if I only finish the visible sides ?

Mark


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## Krysstel

Nobody got an idea about the finishing ?
I'm planning to do it tomorrow.  

Mark


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## Paul Chapman

I just use Liberon Black Bison wax polish on mine. Keeps it looking nice and stuff like dried glue is easy to remove. Just re-apply when it's starting to look a bit scruffy. If you use wax polish don't use any with silicone in it as this can adversly affect anything you are making when it comes to applying finishes.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Boz62

I used Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (similar to Osmo PolyX) just to seal things up and stop it flexing with time and humidity. I did both sides while the worktop was off and accessible. It also makes it easier to scrape off glue and paint , which is why I even bothered to do the inside of dog holes - easy clean . It was what I had a tin of - would have used Danish happily if I'd had any instead, it's only a bench. Still debating whether to wax as well - the sheen finish of the waxoil is matt enough to stop things sliding around too much while working.

Boz


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## Krysstel

Nobody's got any advice about finishing both sides or not, which was my original question ?


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## Boz62

Sorry, can't help, I've always varnished/waxed both sides of items just in case, even MDF. I would have thought MDF would be a lot less vulnerable than real wood though?

Boz


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## Paul Chapman

Krysstel":3d54poqj said:


> Nobody's got any advice about finishing both sides or not, which was my original question ?



If you are in any doubt, then it's always best to apply finish to both sides, although I doubt that it would be too critical with your bench.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Karl

Krysstel

Apologies for not responding to your query in my thread - I must have missed your post.

I didn't bother doing both sides of my top. 4 layers of MDF - I doubt there'll be any issue.

One final point. When I did mine, I noticed that the lacquer (in particular) was quite thick. I would consider getting some of the cellulose thinners and thin it down a bit to make application easier. I'm going to put some on my next Axminster order. 

Also, application by brush gives a thick coat and, hence, a glossy finish. I have been finishing some other oak faced MDF tonight for a job i'm doing, and have been experimenting with applying the lacquer by rag - applying a thin coat with each application. After 2 coats give it a light rub over with some 400 grit and then a final coat. After the final coat give it ONE wipe over with some 1200 SiC. Gives a lovely smooth finish, and not too glossy.

HTH  

Cheers

Karl


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## Krysstel

Brilliant Karl, just what I needed to hear.
Sounds like doing only one side will be OK even though I've only got 2 layers of MDF.  

I've already used the lacquer on the cupborad doors and discovered it was thick, as you say, and I ended up thinning it down a good 50%.
I'll try the rag application, although I was quite happy with the large soft brush I used - gets it on quick and you don't have much time !
Thanks for the help.

Mark


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## Krysstel

Bench-dog holes done  







Shelving in right hand cupboard modified and 170 degree hinges fitted to make storing of the removable bench section possible.  




Mekkemikkel - note the colour of the handle :wink: 

SCMS fitted using 2 lengths of Rockler t-track and 4 cam-clamps  





Two coats of sanding sealer + 2 coats of Melamine Lacquer.
*FINISHED*    





At last !
Mark


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## Paul Chapman

That looks great, Mark =D> 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Boz62

That looks great Mark. Well done. I wish you many happy hours of using it 

Boz


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## Triggaaar

I love it Mark, a great bench. I hope I find this thread again when I make one.


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## Henning

Very, very nice, Mark! 

I wish you many happy hours using it!


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## Mekkemikkel

Great work mate!!  

And a smart solution on the shelf over your insert top storage! 

Ps! Love the color on the handle! It's all in the details! :wink:


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## Benchwayze

Joints":37ga8hzd said:


> Looks like a nice neat and strong build nice work definately.
> 
> One thing though, aren't the point of thoses effing little screw feet to go on an akward floor?



Yep! 

But they look like the kind of adjusters used in kitchens. They level the cupboards OK, but a kitchen cupboard stack isn't going to take quite so much 'heavy-work' as a workbench. (Accurate and stress-free planing for instance, is something that needs an immovable bench! )

I think the concrete 'plinth' would be the way to go, if it's feasible. 

Regards
John


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## Krysstel

Benchwayze":1cusr7sr said:


> I think the concrete 'plinth' would be the way to go, if it's feasible.
> 
> Regards
> John



The concrete plinth was the way to go and page 2 of this post confirms it :lol: 
I agree that the Axi adjusters are not much more than kitchen cupboard feet but they're OK so long as they're not adjusted too far out. 
And I can confirm that the completed bench with double layer MDF tops, 9" vise, SCMS and cupboards full with compressor and various power tools is totally immovable  

Mark


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## Benchwayze

Late again then it seems! 

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: 

Now I have to get Number One Son to come and cast a base for my new bench! Nice job overall Krys. I am sure you enjoy using it. 

=D> =D> =D> 


Regards
John :wink:


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## kenny28

Where did you get the adjustable feet ?


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## Phil Pascoe

kenny28":32mr00j8 said:


> Where did you get the adjustable feet ?


The thread's four and a half years old. You might get an answer.


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## Triggaaar

phil.p":fxqg2rwq said:


> The thread's four and a half years old. You might get an answer.


It's an oldie but a goodie.


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## Phil Pascoe

It's still four and a half years old.


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## Krysstel

kenny28":2mxcymz8 said:


> Where did you get the adjustable feet ?



Axminster. And I'm fairly sure they still sell them !!  

Mark


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## Noggsy

Krysstel, really enjoyed reading this and that is a really lovely-looking bench. What are your thoughts on it 15 years later? Anything you would or have changed? Was the one vice enough?

One of the best bits of Schwarz's bench building book is the retrospectives on the benches after a bit of use.


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