# Advice on table saw on 8x4 table...



## BodgeJob (2 Mar 2021)

Hi all,

I’ve got a wooden 8x4 table on wheels. (Got it off eBay!)

I’d like to add a table saw to my workshop - and would like to add it to my table.

I’ve seen different designs with the table saw on the long/short side/corner - and I’m not sure where is best?

I’d love to hear your options on the best position for the saw - which table saw (the blade would need to drop into the table to keep it completely flat), id also like to have extension guides routered into my table top for better support. I don’t know which ones to get!

And I’d love to occasionally cut 8x4 sheets if possible!

thanks so much for any help and suggestions.


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## Jameshow (2 Mar 2021)

Budget? 

£100 buys you a cheapy titan etc. 

I wouldn't pay any more for an evolution/ Ryobi tbh. 

£300 buys a s/h big name brands or a small axi / kity. 

£500 buys you the above but new. 

I would make sure it has an induction motor as they are so much quieter. 

Cheers James


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## Myfordman (2 Mar 2021)

Put the blade centrally along the long side and then any cut on an 8x4 should stay supported by gravity after the cut.


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## Jacob (2 Mar 2021)

I've got a long bench along the wall, exactly same height as my TS. With the aid of the sliding table I can cut 8x4's, with the other end sliding on the bench. MDF top - could be better with varnish and wax polish for low friction, or you could fit that low friction plastic wossitcalled stuff
Might have to move the saw relative to the bench for some cuts and you have to clear the bench of course.
So - no modification to the table of the table saw, instead work out how to feed the sheets on and off in a controlled way


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## shed9 (2 Mar 2021)

All depends on the saw you use and what elements of it you want to retain in the final fit. If you want to use the attached fence then you are clearly going to need to place the saw on a leading edge. If it comes with any additional wings that add value (like mitre slots) then you may want to factor that in as opposed to machining new ones in the 8x4 table. Make sure you place it for best functionality for the majority of your use of it, i.e. don't place it in a position that impacts daily use in order to cut one 8x4 sheet every other month. As long as you can retract the blade and associated parts concerned with the table saw hardware you should still have a functioning 8x4 work / layout / glue up table.

Factor in safety in terms of blade exposure, where the stop switch is positioned and deal with dust extraction (above and below the table) from the outset. The protection of your fingers and lungs should be key to your design.

Buy a known brand and the best you can afford at the time of purchase and don't be swayed by additional plastic in the sale. You have already invested in the in-feed / out-feed of the saw, all you need now is a good solid motor set in a sound table with appropriate safety guards.


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## Peterm1000 (2 Mar 2021)

I don't think there's much point in having the table extend beyond the fence. So - on my saw, the fence is to the right of the blade. You can't cut things wider than the fence will slide to the right (60cm) so there is no point having the saw set with 90cm to the right of the saw blade because the last 30cm will never be used. Also, if you have the saw bang in the middle on the leading edge, you are always going to be reaching a long way to retrieve what the saw has cut. Sometimes, that will mean you leaning over the blade. At best, that's uncomfortable and at worst, that could lead to injury. That means for me, my saw (Charnwood W650) would be set in the right hand corner nearest the leading edge if I set it into a table at all.


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## Lazurus (2 Mar 2021)

If you need a bigger table area buy a "proper" table saw as safety must be paramount.


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## sometimewoodworker (2 Mar 2021)

BodgeJob said:


> And I’d love to occasionally cut 8x4 sheets if possible!


Using any table saw other than one with a slider for cutting 8 X 4 sheets, while possible, is a very poor choice of tool.


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## BodgeJob (2 Mar 2021)

Thanks so much guys - I still find it amazing that the forum is so active with such great replies!

I think I’ve decided not to modify my table now, and just go for a table saw I can just put onto my table when I need to use it.

i’m thinking of the Bosh GTX 10. It’s portable - so I can store it away when not being used, and it has a big extendable table.

thanks again for the help!


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## Jameshow (2 Mar 2021)

How about a shelf in front of the table which folds away when your not using the table saw but allows the table saw to be the same height as the table? 

Cheers James


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## pe2dave (3 Mar 2021)

Myfordman said:


> Put the blade centrally along the long side and then any cut on an 8x4 should stay supported by gravity after the cut.


Blade parallel to long side - hard to get close for setup?
Otherwise agree with main point, need support for sheet when entering and exiting saw? 
Wonder if this is why sliding extensions and 'add ons' are used, rather than full solid table?


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## Jacob (3 Mar 2021)

pe2dave said:


> Blade parallel to long side - hard to get close for setup?
> Otherwise agree with main point, need support for sheet when entering and exiting saw?
> Wonder if this is why sliding extensions and 'add ons' are used, rather than full solid table?


Full solid table - you'd have to climb up on it to handle full sheets.


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## danst96 (3 Mar 2021)

I have a cheap Clarke TS and I built a cabinet for it and put a MDF top on with the Rutland pro fence system as the fence with the Clarke is trash. The Rutland's fence is very good quality and a great piece of kit however in hindsight, the money I spent on all of that together (close to £400, not all at once, I used the ts as it came for months) I would have been better off getting a decent second hand Axi/Kity/Scheppach instead. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. I'm stuck with this now and it does the job but inevitably I will get a decent saw in the future. I'd recommend going this route straight away if you can. To justify my decision to do what I've done, I got the cheap TS as I wasn't sure how much woodwork I wanted to do and wasn't willing to invest £400 immediately. when I was doing more I wanted a better fence hence I went the route I did.

In short, invest in a decent table saw with induction motor and cast iron table if you are serious. I use my ts for every project


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## Myfordman (3 Mar 2021)

pe2dave said:


> Blade parallel to long side - hard to get close for setup?
> Otherwise agree with main point, need support for sheet when entering and exiting saw?
> Wonder if this is why sliding extensions and 'add ons' are used, rather than full solid table?


No Blade to long edge


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## pe2dave (3 Mar 2021)

Myfordman said:


> No Blade to long edge


 Which means I can't cut on the long axis of the board?
I'm thinking a saw set into a 'big' table is not a good solution?
Perhaps Felder and friends got it right with extension arms?


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## Cabinetman (3 Mar 2021)

Jameshow said:


> How about a shelf in front of the table which folds away when your not using the table saw but allows the table saw to be the same height as the table?
> 
> Cheers James


This is the way to go in my opinion, once the saw is in the table you’ll never take it out again, and it will always be in the way when you want to use the table, and you will always have to clear the table when you want to use the saw, and because no dust extraction is perfect you will have a large table to sweep down after every session.
Don’t limit yourself, keep it fluid. Ian


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## pe2dave (3 Mar 2021)

Sensible view @Cabinetman


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## baldkev (4 Mar 2021)

In your original post, you mention dropping the blade to have a clear bench, but of course most will have and ahould have a riving knife and crown guard..... 
Ive got a dw745 for site use, the knife and guard are removed very quickly, from the top, which is useful, but some are a bit more involved, like an old Clarke ts i had, you had to access it all from underneath and unbolt it.


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## Peterm1000 (4 Mar 2021)

A full sheet of 18mm MDF weighs about 35kg and that is not going to slide easily across a table due to friction so you are unlikely to get safe / accurate cuts. I think this is why on a sliding table saw, it's the table that slides and not the piece of wood that is being cut.


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## rafezetter (4 Mar 2021)

I made my bench with my Kity 419 at the end sitting on a shelf, and the kity (forerunner to the Axminster TS200 & Sheppach clones) is small enough that I can swing it 90 deg so it's either in wide rip mode or long rip mode using the rest of the bench as an outfeed. I don't use it for sheets though - Lidl / Parkside tracksaw is far safer for that.


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## Trainee neophyte (4 Mar 2021)

Can't believe I'm saying this: how about a track saw? I don't have one, and I love my table saw, and I never cut up full sheets on it. But still, you have the table to do the sheets, and a track saw might be a better option as you move the saw, not the wood. 

I'm off for a lie down - feeling all unnecessary suddenly.


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