# Tom's Tool Chest - Finished!



## DeepBlue (21 Dec 2009)

About 2 years ago I bought some American black walnut to turn into a tool chest. As various Christmases and birthdays went buy the pile got smaller and smaller, but as I've got 2 weeks off work I've decided to bite the bullet and get a move on.

The idea is to make a machinist's chest big enough to take all my measuring and marking tools, chisels and small handplanes - I've been using philly's for inspiration. The final dimensions will be about 12x12x20 ish, just the right size to fit in a space under my wall cabinets. It'll be entirely fitted out with drawers so I can put stuff on the top.

I started by planing up my (remaining) stock. Behind it you can see the veneer which I "borrowed" from my brother to make the panels with.







Then I got a bit carried away and ripped and crosscut the pieces to size. I'm using a coping bit in my router table to join the pieces. I got it for christmas ages ago, and this is the first time I've used it in anger.






All the rails and stiles done:






Now cutting the matching parts on the rails:






I was a bit worries about breakout on the back side, but it seems ok when I tried the test piece, so I just went for it.

All the bits dry fitted together with the MDF panels:






Now, onto the veneering. I've only done this once before, so here goes. first I jointed it between two scraps:






Then I joined two pieces together with veneer tape, then clamped it up with cauls and plenty of clamps






I'll take them out of the clamps this morning - fingers crossed!


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## wizer (21 Dec 2009)

Brilliant start Tom. Looking forward to the rest of the project. Tool chest is on my new year list.


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## woodbloke (21 Dec 2009)

Nice start on this one. Using a coupla battens to shoot the edge of veneer is the only way IMO, to get a decent joint. If you do much more veneering it's worth making a bigger veneer shoot, the problem then becomes one of having sufficient cramps to get a decent pressure across the board being glued - Rob


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## DeepBlue (21 Dec 2009)

OK, after taking it out of the clamps I had to pry it apart as some glue had seeped in between the panel and the caul, I guess I should have covered it in something . I then scraped and sanded the veneer tape off, sanded the panels to 240 and make a small rebate on the back to allow it to fit nicely into the groove.

A test fit later and I'm well chuffed:






Then a coat of danish oil to pop it:






I'm not entirely sure what to do with the finish, but I'm thinking another coat or two of danish oil followed by a few coats of thinned poly? Though I'm loathe to use it, I want this this to be well protected (from me!).

Has anyone got any tips for getting a good finish on a frame and panel? Is there anything more I can pre-finish to avoid problems later?

Cheers
-Tom


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## bigjoe (21 Dec 2009)

Looking nice


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## woodbloke (21 Dec 2009)

Just curious...were they four consecutive leaves of veneer or two pairs of different leaves? The bookmatched patterns look different on each door, if they'd been consecutive leaves one door ought to look very similar to the other one
Edit - silly me...it looks like one door is upside down, or vice versa - Rob


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## DeepBlue (21 Dec 2009)

They are actually consecutive leaves, but the "proper" one which was in between the two you see here was damaged, and I needed the rest for the top.

Those things are actually the two end panels, so thankfully you shouldn't be able to see them both at the same time.


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## Mike.C (21 Dec 2009)

Very nice.

Cheers

Mike


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## flounder (21 Dec 2009)

Very nice so far Tom! I am looking forward to following your progress!


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## Waka (21 Dec 2009)

I do love those panels. I can see this is going to be a fantastic tool chest.


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## DeepBlue (21 Dec 2009)

After my success with panels for the sides, I thought I'd push my luck and make the top the same way, only this time trying to join 6 bookmatched pieces together :S.

Anyway, i'm pretty satisfied with the results, but I'll have to wait to see tomorrow. I jointed the leaves using the same method as before - squish between 2 boards and plane with a 4 1/2:






Then cut the substrate oversize:






Then hope for the best and put it in the poor man's vacuum bag:






Cheers
-Tom


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## woodbloke (21 Dec 2009)

Hope this turns out well...on a longer length join like this a longer plane would be better to shoot the edges though. Interested to see how this section of the tool chest works out - Rob


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## DeepBlue (21 Dec 2009)

woodbloke":32s07yzv said:


> .on a longer length join like this a longer plane would be better to shoot the edges though.



Sure - the reason for going with the 4 1/2 was simply because its the best plane I own (i.e. the only LN). I have got an old 5 1/2 stanley which isn't bad, but I find the LN is always superbly accurate, even over relatively long distances.

On the other hand I do quite fancy a jointer, so I think I'll pass your advice on to the LOML .


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## wizer (21 Dec 2009)

The pattern in those smaller panels is not dissimilar to your avatar Tom. The patterns you get from bookmatching can be stunning. I must photograph some leaves that I got on ebay for a song. One of them looks like this emoticon :twisted: I kid you not


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## DeepBlue (21 Dec 2009)

Maybe it's like a Rorschach (ink blot) test?

I reckon the one one the left looks like Emperor Palpatine - I guess that proves I'm a geek


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## DeepBlue (22 Dec 2009)

I didn't manage to get that much done today, but I did scrap and sand the panel for the top:






It's not bad, most of the joints are fine but a couple are non-invisible, but I'm still pretty pleased overall. Also, its much bigger than I need, so I think I'll be able to chop most of the bad bits at the ends off.

I also clamped up the two end panels:






With any luck I'll be able to start on the interior soon. This will consist of a maple veneered MDF jobbie with space for 6 rows of drawers. I did consider doing a proper job and making the interior out of real wood frames, but I think this will be much more stable and a whole lot less fiddly.

Cheers
-Tom


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## Max Power (24 Dec 2009)

Looking good Tom,I see you have japanese as well as lie nielsen chisels which do you prefer?


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## jedmc571 (24 Dec 2009)

I saw a Nordic Viking face, on the left ? and I'm afraid to say  I saw ladies bits on the right :lol: I guess that proves I'm a perve :lol: 

Regarding the bag press :lol: GWW showed a "Space Bag" as a cheap and easy to use version, not sure how reliable they are for this type of application? but they're fantastic for their proper use, and can't see why they wouldn't work?

They're available at Costco for about £18 and you get loads of bags, and all a decent size, I suspect the Jumbo would easily have accomodated your veneers ? and worse case.......you can still put all your stuff back on as back up :wink: 

Cheers

Jed


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## Mike.C (24 Dec 2009)

jedmc571":181a5j6d said:


> I saw a Nordic Viking face, on the left ? and I'm afraid to say  I saw ladies bits on the right :lol: I guess that proves I'm a perve :lol:
> 
> Regarding the bag press :lol: GWW showed a "Space Bag" as a cheap and easy to use version, not sure how reliable they are for this type of application? but they're fantastic for their proper use, and can't see why they wouldn't work?
> 
> ...



Jed, do you mean the bags advertised on the tv for storing clothes etc, and GWW claim that you can use them for veneering?

If that's the case then I think I will give them a shot because it is certainly a cost effective way :lol: 

If I read you post correctly then thanks for the tip.

Cheers

Mike


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## houtslager (24 Dec 2009)

looking good there. Use some poly with a touch of pure turps and rub it in till its swimming in the mix let it sink in then wipe excess off leave to harden - 24hrs generally then do it a couple more times and your done. Good workshop finish to protect sall your hard work.

hth,

hs


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## DeepBlue (24 Dec 2009)

Alan Jones":2li9jmyr said:


> Looking good Tom,I see you have japanese as well as lie nielsen chisels which do you prefer?



Oooh definately the lie nielsens 

The japanese ones were moderately cheap from tilgear, so its probably a slightly unfair comparison - I'd like to try some decent ones as well at some point. They do hold a really good edge, but I had problems with the edges being too fragile. I managed to fix this by honing a 35 degree angle, and grinding back a few mm. I read somewhere that often the very edges of a brand new chisel is more brittle because it cools quicker, so its normal to have to remove it. I quite like them for chopping - the iron hoop means I'm not shy about whacking it with my japanese hammer.

They're not as nice to hold for paring though, and the sides of the smaller chisels are pretty much 90 degrees, which can make it awkward for chopping dovetails.

The lie nielsens on the other hand are lovely to use for paring and fit perfectly in my hand. According to LN they test them with a framing hammer, but I'm always too scared to use anything other than a small brass carving mallet.

My plan is to try and build up a collection, but at 50 quid a pop, its not easy! The Aka-Kashi chisels were about 40 quid for 4, which I reckon is a bargain for anyone starting out or looking to try japanese chisels.


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## DeepBlue (24 Dec 2009)

Thats a good tip about the vacuum bags - I think I have one of those in the loft somewhere....

Is there a cheap way of getting a pump?


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## jedmc571 (25 Dec 2009)

You don't need a pump, you just use the hoover to suck the air out, and then push the stopper in, job done :wink:


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## DeepBlue (28 Dec 2009)

Now that I've recovered from Chirstmas I've made a little more progress on the inside of the chest. The interior is made from 13mm maple veneered MDF joined together with housing joints and rebates.

I begun by cutting the components to width with my rail saw, then crosscut them to length on the table saw:







A quick check to make sure I've got the right length:






Then I cut the remaining pieces. To join the members together I cut housings using a router and a straight edge, but annoyingly the panels were actually 13.4mm :roll:. After frustrating myself trying to get the right size by tapping the straight edge over a smidge, I remembered this much more accurate method: just stick a wodge of post-its to the side of the router - perfect housings every time!






Much routing later, I did a dry fit to check for screw ups:






Here's another with the panels in place:






Obviously I had to check that my Christmas presents would fit :ho2 






Then before I called it a day, I cut a few scraps to have a look at my intended drawer layout:






Next up - edge band and pre-finish the components then a little assembly!


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## mailee (28 Dec 2009)

WOW Tom! it's looking great. If that is how you build a tool cabinet I would love to see your furniture. :shock:


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## Modernist (28 Dec 2009)

Looking very nice. Arn't the top spaces a bit narrow?


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## DeepBlue (28 Dec 2009)

Modernist":35dlicm9 said:


> Looking very nice. Arn't the top spaces a bit narrow?



Yeah, they're about an inch high, but before I decided on the layout I totted up the size of all my tools and there are quite a few icle things which will go up there - rules, marking knives, pencils, punches, squares. 

Plus my secret santa was kind enough to give me a few more marking tools, so it's only right that I give them I good home


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## Mr Ed (28 Dec 2009)

I presume you plan on drawers going in those gaps, in which case by the time you allow for an inset groove in the drawer sides and then the drawer bottom you're going to be left with about 1/2" useable space? Seems a bit tight to me

I am loving the veneer work on the panels - the finished effect is going to be quite striking.

Ed


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## DeepBlue (28 Dec 2009)

So, my cunning plan is to use thin ply for the bottoms of the really thin drawers, then glue dividers for the kit to the inside of the drawer to strengthen it (like a guitar). We'll have to see how it turns out :roll:


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## wizer (29 Dec 2009)

what TS have you got Tom?


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## DeepBlue (29 Dec 2009)

Its a scheppach TS2010. I really should do a proper review one of these days, but it's served my well. I'm very pleased with it, the only thing that lets it down is the width of cut with the rip fence - I really should get the extension.


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## Mr Ed (29 Dec 2009)

I've been looking at that saw. My local dealer will do it for me with the sliding table, width extension and outfeed for £1900 which is pretty good. I've still some reservations about Scheppach - the P/T I have is good, but I never really got on with the bandsaw.

Ed


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## DeepBlue (29 Dec 2009)

:shock: Do you mean the 2500?

I've got the smallest in the range - the 2010. Having had it for about 4 years, I'm not sure I'd go with scheppach again because of the funky mitre slots. I do think it lives up to it's title as a "precision" saw however. When I crosscut the 270mm wide components using the sliding table it was perfect first time (although admittedly I hadn't touched the slider since I last squared it up).


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## wizer (29 Dec 2009)

Looks like you've got it setup nicely Tom. I don't think I'd go for one, but I'm warming to the idea of having a TS close to the wall like that. I've seen a couple of members that have done that.


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## Mr Ed (29 Dec 2009)

DeepBlue":2h88d5mo said:


> :shock: Do you mean the 2500?.



Yes I do - must read more carefully!

Ed


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## DeepBlue (29 Dec 2009)

wizer":3268kgj5 said:


> LI'm warming to the idea of having a TS close to the wall like that. I've seen a couple of members that have done that.



I quite like it where it is, but I do have to make a rough cross cut first if I'm using the sliding table. Apart from that I think I've sited it sensibly given that the space is only 4.2x2.5m. I can rip just under 2m worth and crosscut about 1.2, but I have an SCMS on the other side which takes care of most of my crosscutting. Combine that with a rail saw, and I think I've got all bases covered.


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## head clansman (29 Dec 2009)

hi 

I know pics can be deceiving, but from these pics the drawer carcase depth before drawers are built look very shallow from one of the pics you show a set of chisels are these intended for the lower drawers , if so what are you intending to put in the upper drawers? . hc


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## DeepBlue (29 Dec 2009)

head clansman":d39la2xp said:


> what are you intending to put in the upper drawers? . hc



Thats a popular question:
Pens, pencils, mini squares, grinding bevel gauge, center punches, cabinet scrapers, scalpels, marking knives, calipers, rules, etc

Plus I need room for expansion :wink:


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## DeepBlue (29 Dec 2009)

This afternoon I finalized the layout of the drawers. After some careful consideration, I decided to graduate the triple drawers so they go in a V shape. This is to give a more efficient layout for certain tools, plus I reckon it looks good too.

Here it is with all the housings cut in the horizontal members:





And again with the vertical partitions in place:





Now to edge band the front with some walnut. I needed some thin strips, so I knocked a thin strip cutting jig together from some scraps:






I dry assembled the whole thing and glued on the edging:






Lastly I took it all apart again so nothing got stuck that wasn't supposed to be. Hopefully, tomorrow I can pre-finish the inside and start work on the stop.

Thanks for looking
-Tom


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## DeepBlue (30 Dec 2009)

Today I managed to get the insides finished. I wanted some kind of finish, if only to make the drawers slide nicely, so I had a rummage and found some cellulose sanding sealer. This was perfect because it give a relatively smooth surface and dries in minutes (and I'm very impatient).

I removed the tape holding the edging on and sanded all the components to 240:






Next I masked off all the glue surfaces and gave everything one coat of sanding sealer, here are half of them:






The more eagle eyed amongst you may notice that I forgot the masking on one of them, oh well...

I took a couple of minutes and planed the edging nice and smooth.






On to the glue up. This wasn't particularly stressful, but I do wish I had a few more clamps:












Cheers
-Tom


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## rileytoolworks (30 Dec 2009)

Nice bit of drive by gloatage there Tom!
Just out of curiosity, how much do you think this will weigh when it's done?
Looking forward to more pics.

Adam.


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## DeepBlue (30 Dec 2009)

RILEY":xfdwkuz5 said:


> Nice bit of drive by gloatage there Tom!



Yeah I was quite proud of it! 

I reckon its going to be pretty heavy by the time its all done, I'll be most disappointed if I can move it when its full of tools. At the moment its got about have a sheet of mdf in it, add to that the drawers (which will be 10mm ish oak), the tops and the sides, and its rather beastly.


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## DeepBlue (31 Dec 2009)

This morning I removed the clamps and tried it in it's future location:












Blimey, those upper cabinets look unsightly now, I really must make some doors...

Anyway, the next job was the top. I cut it to size then made a tongue ready for the solid walnut lipping:






Here is the lipping all ripped to width:






Then I cut a matching groove, mitred the corners and glued it all up:






I was quite relieved when it all came together - last time I tried this it was a disaster.

With the top in the clamps, I moved back to the main carcass. I attached the sides temporarily with screws from the inside, using my little angled screwdriver:






Then I marked the position of the rebate from the back, took it apart, cut the grooves in the sides and cut the back panel to size:






The idea is that the top will get a matching stopped groove.

Next I got thinking about the drawers. The original plan was go for proper (non-cheating) hand cut half blind drawers, mainly because I wanted to really test my skills and see how far I've come.

I picked out an assortment of maple boards for the fronts and chucked them through the thicknesser to see what they looked like under all the muck. I was really pleased to find one board had really heavy figuring:






So, now this left me with a dilemma. I only have one board with all the figuring and I reckon I'm unlikely to be able to get all the fronts if it resaw it into 2. I could however chop it into three, but then this doesn't leave enough meat to dovetail into....

So instead I'm going to (partially) cheat and go for oak drawer boxes with hand cut _through_ dovetails and applied 1/4" maple fronts instead. 

I think...


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## OPJ (31 Dec 2009)

Where did you get your little ratchet screwdriver from?


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## TheTiddles (31 Dec 2009)

OPJ":5tz9viie said:


> Where did you get your little ratchet screwdriver from?



Axminster, just a few quids I think

Aidan


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## DeepBlue (31 Dec 2009)

Yup, Axminster, but i cant find it on the site now 

It's really small and handy and has got me out of trouble a few times.


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## DeepBlue (31 Dec 2009)

Aha, found it:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=783834&name=confined+space&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0


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## DeepBlue (6 Mar 2010)

Right, firstly, apologies for the lack of activity, but I have actually been doing something since the last post.

I've been working on the drawers, all made from 8mm american white oak and all hand dovetailed. I thought this project would be a great opportunity to brush up on my technique, so here are some tips that you might find useful.

Begin by cutting the components to size and planing everything nice and flat and square






Lay the components out as they will be joined and mark them with cabinet makers triangles:






Set a marking gauge to the thickness of the stock






Then scribe all the way around on the tails, and on the two faces of the end pieces:






This is sometimes known as the "Rob Cosman Technique" i'm using, and I've found that for me it works very effectively. To mark the tails, use a pair of dividers. Because the drawers are so thin, one tail is sufficient, but for more he has a well documented technique for getting nice, even spacing.






Now, stick a pen in the hole you just made and slide a dovetail template up against it. Mark both faces.






Saw on the waste side of the marks. It doesn't actually matter if you follow the line on the face, the critical thing is that it's square across the end and nice and straight.







Now, remove the shoulders. This gave me real trouble when I started. My preferred technique is to saw as close to the line as possible, then trim it perfectly with a chisel. I found the best way is to hold the workpiece and the chisel near the end, and pare it away like I was whittling it.






Marking the pins from the tails gave me the most trouble. It would squirm around or move as I cut it with the knife, but I think I've now got the technique sussed. Firstly, move the handplane as far away as possible, so when you push down in the middle of the piece you get the maximum torque. I found that the most effective tool was actually a good ol' stanley knife. This IMHO gave me a good mark which I had no trouble sawing to. The deep grain of the oak probably didn't help and my nicer, finer knives would probably be a better choice for something with a finer grain.






Now, saw on the waste side of the line. Using the stanley blade meant that the line was easy to see, but the saw has a tendency to move into the center, but after one or two duff joints I nailed the technique. Basically, the first cut needs to be made with confidence. Line the cut up, steady the saw with your other thumb and forefinger, and in one smooth motion make the first cut. 






I've tried chopping out the waste ala Frank Klausz, but I found that for hardwoods it was much quicker to use a fretsaw:






After removing the waste, clamp it to a piece of scrap and chop out the waste. A tip I picked up from David Charlesworth's book is that the most important cut is the penultimate one. Cut back until you have less than half a millimeter before putting the chisel right in the groove left by the marking gauge. I tried paring these cuts, but I got much better results by using a small carving mallet.

To begin with, I purposely angled the chisel to create a hollow, but this caused problems when I chopped from the other side. A much better technique is to stand sideways on and get it as near to vertical as possible.

Having a cheap angle poise lamp is a great tip - you can get it to cast a shadow into the groove made by the marking gauge.






Here's one I made earlier:






Just a couple more to go, then I'll make the fronts and design a nice handle:


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## flounder (6 Mar 2010)

Excellent work! I am really glad you have picked this back up again as I really enjoyed following the progress you had made before your little 'break'! :wink:


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## wizer (6 Mar 2010)

Good work Tom. Lovely chisels, I have my eye on a set of those. But _please_, take off those tacky stickers :roll: :wink:


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## Beardo16 (6 Mar 2010)

Im also glad this is up and running again.

Something i will be making within a month or 2.

The only thing im going to change is i will be doing lapped dovetails instead of through at the front. Other than that it looks great.


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## WoodAddict (6 Mar 2010)

nice looking chest, what "fronts" are you planning on putting on? will they match the rest of the chest or contrast?

looking forward to seeing it finished with handles 8)


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## DeepBlue (7 Mar 2010)

> But please, take off those tacky stickers



I was hesitant to remove the stickers - when I tried to peel them off my japanese chisels it left an 'orrible gooie mess and I wished I left them on 



> what "fronts" are you planning on putting on?



They're going to be maple with African blackwood handles of some description.


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## Mr Ed (7 Mar 2010)

DeepBlue":wynn521c said:


> I was hesitant to remove the stickers - when I tried to peel them off my japanese chisels it left an 'orrible gooie mess and I wished I left them on



A can of lighter fuel is an essential workshop item in my view, and will quickly remove most sticky adhesives very easily, plus you can buy it from the newsagents!

Ed


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## DeepBlue (7 Mar 2010)

Thats a good tip - but doesn't that take the lacquer off with it?


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## wizer (7 Mar 2010)

You can buy 'Goo Gone' stuff to remove the sticky residue, but any alcohol like Isopropyl will work.


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## DeepBlue (7 Mar 2010)

I've just given it a try, and for anyone who's interested Ashley Isles stickers do leave an annoying residue, but a little dab of white spirit gets it off without any noticeable effect on the finish


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## Mr Ed (7 Mar 2010)

DeepBlue":crkspba1 said:


> Thats a good tip - but doesn't that take the lacquer off with it?



No I doubt it (you don't light the fuel mind you.....)

Ed


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## wizer (7 Mar 2010)

DeepBlue":hsxokvjf said:


> I've just given it a try, and for anyone who's interested Ashley Isles stickers do leave an annoying residue, but a little dab of white spirit gets it off without any noticeable effect on the finish



Good work. I do wish they'd change those stickers.


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## Aled Dafis (7 Mar 2010)

wizer":hor9bsc6 said:


> DeepBlue":hor9bsc6 said:
> 
> 
> > I've just given it a try, and for anyone who's interested Ashley Isles stickers do leave an annoying residue, but a little dab of white spirit gets it off without any noticeable effect on the finish
> ...



Something tells me that Matthew asked them to stop using the stickers, and they said that they never liked them in the first flace, so all chisels now come _sans_ stickers.

Lovely chisels BTW, I have two, and will add to the set as and when reqired. Unfortunately for Matthew though, I have some Marples chisels that I really like, and are too good to be relegated to the DIY toolbox.

Cheers

Aled


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## DeepBlue (8 Mar 2010)

Yesterday I fitted all of the drawer fronts from some figured maple. I didn't quiet manage to get it all in one flowing bookmatched series, but I'm happy with the compromise:












And here's another one, because I know you're all worried about my stickers:


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## stoatyboy (8 Mar 2010)

my god that looks gorgeous with fronts on - gorgeous!


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## WoodAddict (8 Mar 2010)

awesome looking tool chest. those colours are spot on! it would almost be a shame to put the handles on, but I'm sure they'll look good 

great work. 

8)


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## OPJ (8 Mar 2010)

I think you'd done very well to get the grain match you've achieved with those drawer fronts - absolutely stunning! 8)

Hope the handles/pulls are fairly small and won't draw too much attention away from the figured maple...


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## DeepBlue (8 Mar 2010)

Cheers for the comments lads 

The drawer pulls are now starting to worry me - I want something subtle, but interesting. Maybe something with a bit of a curve to it...

I went searching for inspiration and came across this:






It's not bad, but I'm sure I've seen better somewhere, can anyone help me out? Have you seen a truly brilliant but understated drawer pull somewhere?


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## wizer (8 Mar 2010)

I'm going to use that style of knob\handle on my jewellery box. The recess is made with a biscuit jointer.

I don't think round knobs will look out of place on this cabinet. I'd definitely keep it wood. Brass or steel wouldn't look right IMO.

It look great BTW.


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## MickCheese (9 Mar 2010)

I feel curved pulls may be a bit overpowering as the fronts are so nice.

I would consider small black buttons in keeping with the delicate line you already have.

Looks really in proportion at present, I really like it.

Mick


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## DeepBlue (9 Mar 2010)

MickCheese":1vmk1pbs said:


> I feel curved pulls may be a bit overpowering as the fronts are so nice.
> 
> I would consider small black buttons in keeping with the delicate line you already have.
> 
> Mick



Good idea - the only problem is I flogged my lathe a few weeks ago due to being a rubbish turner


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## flounder (9 Mar 2010)

For what it is worth, I agree with Mick! I think a more subtle classic knob would be the wasy to go!


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## wizer (9 Mar 2010)

Normally I'd offer, but I'm not healthy enough to get them to you any time soon. I have no idea what someone like Richard Findlay would charge you. Would be worth a PM as this is his bread and butter. He's a bit good, as they say


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## wizer (9 Mar 2010)

This is how Waka did it


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## DeepBlue (10 Mar 2010)

Yeah, I love Waka's tool chest. It's properly inspirational and I think the handles are just right.

If there are any turners out there who could to do me a big favour then send me a pm


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## wizer (10 Mar 2010)

If Wellswood is looking in, he has made some nice pulls on his cabinet. They are brass pulls that he made from flat sheet stock. I can't find an example online and explaining them is a bit hard. Maybe a pic Mark? Despite saying Brass wouldn't look right on this cabinet, his design probably would.


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## Matt_S (10 Mar 2010)

I wonder if even more minimal knobs than Waka's would work better. Just because the proportions of the draws are smaller with less depth.

I liked gasman's ebony handles on his recent writing desk






EDIT forgot to add... looks great!


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## MickCheese (10 Mar 2010)

I think Waka's would be perfect but smaller and for me stained black or natural ebony.

Mick


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## Waka (10 Mar 2010)

I've been catching up on posts since I got back and have to say I really like the tool chest, I kind of wish I'd done my drawers like yours but its a bit late now.

regarding the knobs, TEP on the turning forum did mine for me, he did a fantastic job, I'm sure if you approach him he'll be able to help.


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## matt (13 Mar 2010)

Given the layout of the drawers I'm wondering what it will look like with handles? From the angles of the shots I can't spot any obvious lines (either in-line or planned "random"). Will you use single or double handles for the wide drawers? If it were me I'd be tempted to not have handles at all and try and use some for of push release (i.e. where you nudge the drawer in and it pops out enough to be gripped and pulled out). Maybe too late for push release? Maybe too heavy with tools in each drawer?


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## DeepBlue (13 Mar 2010)

I do really like the idea of a push to open mechanism, but I'm not sure the hardware exists to do it in the space I've got available.

I think I'll go with the turned knobs - I made a post over in the turning forum asking for a friendly turner to make some for me.


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## Waka (13 Mar 2010)

Push to pull will not work with now you're drawers are fitted so snugly.


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## DeepBlue (13 Apr 2010)

Right, firstly, apologies for the lack of updates. For some reason, the last bit of a project always goes slowly for me, but anyway, it's finished!

After appealing for help on the round forum, Maltrout512 very kindly agreed to turn me the knobs from african blackwood. I have to give him full credit here - he's a top bloke and an outstanding craftsman and I was absolutely tickled pink with what he made for me. They're tapered in diameter from 18mm down to 6mm at the top, and the projection out from the cabinet gradually gets smaller also.

On his recommendation, the really small ones are attached using brads superglued in.

The finish is wiped on poly. I was hesitant to use it at first because I was afraid it would yellow the maple too much, but in the end I'm pretty pleased. Thinning it and applying lots of light coats with lots of cutting back in between gave me a finish which doesn't feel like plastic (as I've found in the past). I think I'll be using this technique again in future projects.

Anyway, without further rambling, here is the final result:
















Now a quick tour of the contents (which I'm still changing my mind about)







Note the room for expansion :





Here is my solution for holding my tite mark:






There was only a millimeter of clearance in the opening - I guess thats the price you pay for being a software engineer - always looking to make the most out of every resource:
















This drawer is especially for my secret santa last christmas, I though his kind gifts deserved a nice home (and I'm ashamed to say that until now they've been sitting on a dusty shelf...sorry  )











This is what happened when I complained to the Mrs that I could never find a pencil:





The smallest drawer (which some people were interested in) contains assorted little bits and pieces:










And pointy things:






Finally, here's a closeup of one of the knobs - thanks again Malcolm 






I actually lied about it being finished - I think I should make little holders for each of the drawers to keep stuff from rolling around, but at least everything has a home now.

I hope you approve of the final result,
Cheers
-Tom


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## rileytoolworks (13 Apr 2010)

Very nice Tom.
One day I'll get round to something similar.


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## wizer (13 Apr 2010)

Fantastic! I especially like your knob..s  Well done Malcolm. He is indeed a great turner.

You can be dead proud of that Tom. It's really nice....and I really should do something about my tool storage as my current arrangement is shocking.


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## mtt.tr (13 Apr 2010)

Very nice i really like that. Im designing mine at the moment  But will use more ash and less walnut


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## WoodAddict (13 Apr 2010)

Nicely finished Tom! The knobs look great. How long will the drawers stay that tidy if you don't put the compartments in?


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## DeepBlue (13 Apr 2010)

WoodAddict":2t4sjzra said:


> Nicely finished Tom! The knobs look great. How long will the drawers stay that tidy if you don't put the compartments in?



Not long! I tidied them especially for the photos, and they could use a good hoover too


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## head clansman (13 Apr 2010)

hi 

you have put a lot of time and effort in to making this cabinet, i love the drawers and tiny little knobs, good contrast colour wise , that was a nice touch the drawer with no bottom as well , but, please get rid of that crappy piece of chip board underneath it and build a proper plinth to sit it on, it's that finishing touch to it . its really well done don't spoil it .hc


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## DeepBlue (14 Apr 2010)

head clansman":1p7qr99s said:


> please get rid of that crappy piece of chip board underneath it and build a proper plinth to sit it on, it's that finishing touch to it . its really well done don't spoil it .hc



The plan is actually to build a workbench to house it, but you're right, everything else is looking decidedly shabby by comparison now


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## MickCheese (14 Apr 2010)

Fantastic!

I wouldn't have thought of different sizes for the handles, they look great.

Well done.

Mick


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## wobblycogs (14 Apr 2010)

Great job. The handles finish it off really well.

Makes me feel guilty for keeping my tools in a broken old plastic tool box.


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## OPJ (14 Apr 2010)

That looks fantastic! =D> Plenty of tools but still plenty of space to fill!  :wink:

That finish looks good too. Is it from the General Finishes range?


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## DeepBlue (15 Apr 2010)

OPJ":2i29yynn said:


> That finish looks good too. Is it from the General Finishes range?



No, it's this stuff:






As is, it's pretty gloopy, so combine that with my rubbish technique and I was never really happy with it. 

For the chest, I thinned it 50/50, gave it about 3 coats, cut back, then gave it 2 more coats of 70/30.

Each coat was applied with kitchen roll (being careful to chuck it before it started disintegrating). I'm definitely a convert to this finish for pieces which will take some abuse, and the best bit is that you don't need to wash any brushes


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## maltrout512 (16 Apr 2010)

Nice to see it finished Tom. Great work well done. One small comment loose the pozi screws on the side of the marking gauge draw and replace with slotted brass ones.


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