# New workbench thread



## Karl (24 Feb 2008)

Hi All

I was recently inspired by Paul Chapmans workbench, which has a 3 layered MDF top. I had been toying with the idea of making a top from laminated Iroko sections, but having seen Pauls bench I thought i'd have a go at a "quickie" with MDF, and see how it went. It's cheap, so if it doesn't work out, not much lost.

This was my starting point.







2 x 1000mm B&Q base units (not fixed to each other or the wall) and a couple of sheets of 18mm MFC. This was literally dumped in situ, ready to be sorted at some point.

So I started by getting myself a couple of sheets of 18mm MDF ripped in half - giving 4 x 8' x 2' pieces. Then, the base units (which provide much needed storage in my small garage workshop) were levelled, fastened to each other and screwed into 4" x 2" posts which had been fixed to the wall with frame fixings:






Next up, two of the MDF sheets were secured to the base units. The third was then added on, and plenty of carcass screws used to hold it secure. These were sunk well below the surface, as I inteded to plane this third sheet flat in order that the final layer would be nice and level. 






After about half an hour, we got to this stage with the flattening. You can just see two light patches, which indicates the areas not yet being planed






Then the final layer added






The result - a nice flat surface.

Over the weekend added the Veritas twin screw vice (which has been sat in my shop for about 3 years awaiting this bench!) and some softwood lipping. Also added a softwood buffer at the back - to stop my planes hitting the wall with any over zealous planing !






The Veritas vice wasn't cheap - but it is very well made and gives great capacities. There is 22" between screws






Unfortunately I didn't have any 2" timber knocking around for the jaws (which are 30" long each). Will be picking some up during the week and replacing the MDF/MFC ones. I also need to get a longer chain and chain cover for the vice - the one supplied was only meant for centres upto 17". Must contact Veritas this week. With the longer chain, only one handle need be turned to open the jaws, whereas at present each screw has to be opened individually.

And finally, the bench in use - the pine battens screwed to the top are used as planing stops - one at the end of the piece, and one at the back of the piece.






Next up - replace the jaws on the vice, apply some finish to the top (any suggestions?), add some doors to the cabinets and reinforce the footing of the cabinets. 

All in all i'm well chuffed with how this has turned out.

Cheers

Karl


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## Escudo (24 Feb 2008)

Very nice Karl, my bench has an 18mm plywood top. When it gets a bit rough, I can easily replace it. I suspect you will be able to do something similar.

I like your vice as well, much better than my little jobby.

What is that orange thing hanging down on the wall? It looks like a tripod is attatched?

Well done. Tony.


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## Gordon T (24 Feb 2008)

Hey up Karl,

a simple and effective workbench, well done

GT


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## Karl (24 Feb 2008)

Tony

The Orange thing is a Triton Multistand - it's hung (upside down) on a 6" nail in the wall  

The fourth layer of MDF is simply held down with a screw in each corner - if it gets scuffed I can simply replace it.

Cheers

Karl


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## Paul Chapman (24 Feb 2008)

karl":ys6p7203 said:


> apply some finish to the top (any suggestions?)



Hi Karl,

Bench looks great :wink: 

I went over mine with one coat of Sadolin Classic wood preservative, and thereafter give it an occasional polish with Liberon Black Bison wax polish. Not sure that the Sadolin was necessary but it didn't hurt.

I'd be interested to hear how you find that vice after you've been using it for a while - they look the business.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## ByronBlack (24 Feb 2008)

ooh, very nice indeed! I like the look of the veritas vice


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## Karl (24 Feb 2008)

Paul & Byron

I have some Sadolin - think i'll give it a going over if nobody has any other suggestions. I use waterstones for sharpening, and want something to repel any water spills. HHhhmmmm..... may have to switch to diamond stones.

The Veritas vice is excellent. The jaws let it down at the moment, but i'm off to the timber merchants in the morning to get something to replace them with. I may just manage to get some Iroko into this bench yet...... :lol:. I'm sure the vice will perform much better when it is "one handed" so to speak. Gonna e-mail Lee Valley now.

Cheers

Karl


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## Paul Chapman (24 Feb 2008)

Would a bicycle chain fit? You can get them in 1/8" and 3/32" and they are very easy to shorten or lengthen with a link extractor.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## wizer (24 Feb 2008)

That's a nice quick solution. Please don't show MarkW this thread...


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## Karl (24 Feb 2008)

Paul - bike chain - never thought of that. I've got an old bike outside - think i'll see if I can salvage something off that in the morning. 

I've decided to just give the top a few coats of wax - i'll see how I get on with that. 

Cheers

Karl


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## PowerTool (24 Feb 2008)

Nice bench - particularly like the idea of the softwood "bump-stop" at the back (simple and effective  )

Andrew


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## Paul Chapman (24 Feb 2008)

If you've not used one before, the link removers look like this http://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp? ... gn=froogle 

You just lay the chain across it and do up the threaded part, which pushes the rivet out. Don't push it right out - just enough to remove the link. Putting it together is the same - you use the threaded part to push the rivet back - or you can use a spring link so it's easy to take off and put on.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Lark (25 Feb 2008)

i will be going something like that with cupboards and draws under. a long way off from starting it as making speakers first and then small box, then a big clear out of the garage for junk.


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## dedee (25 Feb 2008)

Cheers Karl,
That is just the solution I need for a quickie bench in the garage prior to the barn been remodelled.

Could someone post a link to the Paul Chapman bench referred to as I must have missed his thread and a quick search did not find it.

Cheers

Andy


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## Karl (25 Feb 2008)

Andy

Check out this thread - https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=22429

The bench is surprisingly sturdy. I surface plane all my timber by hand, and I was a little worried that the base of the bench wouldn't be up to the job and would rack, but I needen't have worried - its as solid as a rock. Been planing Oak and Beech boards yesterday and today, and its been a pleasure to work on the bench.

Cheers

Karl


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## OPJ (25 Feb 2008)

Really like the idea of using a 'disposable' surface - plus, you don't have the same issues of expansion and contraction, as you would have with solid timber.

The Veritas vice looks interesting too - haven't personally considered anything other than the traditional Record models until now. It'll look _and_ work even better with some solid timber jaws too!


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## Karl (25 Feb 2008)

Olly

Went to the timber merchants this morning to get some stock for the jaws. Didn't have any Iroko, but did get a nice board of Beech which I have started planing up. Will hopefully get the jaws on at some point this week.

The expansion problems of solid benches was a consideration - my 'shop' is the garage. Quite cold and drafty - the original door can't be blocked up as I need to be able to get my gear out for day to day site use. So I was a little concerned that if I went down the solid top route, it would be constantly moving due to the varying humidity within the shop (no heating). So after seeing how well Paul C's bench held up after 10 years, I thought i'd give it a whirl.

If the bench holds its own, I will definitely re-lip the edges with Beech stock, and may even replace the top with a veneered panel. That should give a great looking bench, with an easily replaced surface.

Cheers

Karl


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## OPJ (25 Feb 2008)

Thanks for that. You've given me something to think about now as I work in a cold garage also and was, until now, planning on making a solid, traditional cabinet maker's bench from beech... Maybe one day!  

Have you decided whether the grain of your jaws will run vertically or horizontally? It's a lot easier to plan it flush with the grain running lengthways but, some people think you get a better hold with the end grain gripping the timber vertically. But, that's more difficult to plane - especially with beech!


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## WellsWood (25 Feb 2008)

WiZeR":191yk8nz said:


> That's a nice quick solution. Please don't show MarkW this thread...



What you trying to say?

I'll have you know I'm not slow, I'm thorough :twisted: :wink:


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## Karl (27 Feb 2008)

Ok, so I have the Beech for the jaws, and will fit them over the weekend.

But I have been musing over the Veritas range of Wonder dogs/pups and hold downs. I don't use an end vice and have been toying with the idea of buying a couple of dogs. Does anybody use them, or the Veritas hold down? Of the latter, I am thinking particularly about being able to clamp jigs to a shooting board (as the bench doesn't have a removeable tool tray, or any tray come to mention it). A hold down could be positioned behind the shooting board.

Cheers

Karl


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## DaveL (27 Feb 2008)

karl":2f14oy77 said:


> But I have been musing over the Veritas range of Wonder dogs/pups and hold downs.


I have some of the pups, they are very useful and the hold downs are on the wish list. :roll:


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## wizer (27 Feb 2008)

The whole range is excellent. I am using the Wonder dogs to hold my seat on the bench while I scrape out the shape. Seen here:







I did have the hold-downs but lost them! I think i'll go with holdfasts when I replace them:


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## Paul Chapman (27 Feb 2008)

karl":14dqwhb0 said:


> I don't use an end vice



:shock: :shock: :shock: How can any woodworker function without an end vice :? :? :? Or the Veritas Wonder Dogs and Wonder Pups for that matter........

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Karl (27 Feb 2008)

Paul Chapman":2ja0o3ep said:


> karl":2ja0o3ep said:
> 
> 
> > I don't use an end vice
> ...



Hi Paul

Well, I was planning on using a Wonder Dog instead - the only possible use I can see that I would get from an end vice is to secure timber laterally whilst planing/chiseling etc. This function could just as easily be achieved with a WD and my pine stops shown earlier, unless i'm missing something???? Your input is appreciated, as always.

Cheers

Karl


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## Paul Chapman (28 Feb 2008)

Hi Karl,

I think a tail vice gives you so many more options. Here are a couple of examples. In this picture I was cutting biscuit slots in a long piece of oak and needed to ensure that the fence of the biscuit jointer was pressed firmly against the side of the wood






I held the wood between the dog on the vice and the one on the bench then, additionally, had two Wonder Pups positioned to avoid any sideways movement






In this next picture, I was planing three thin pieces which needed to be the same width. I cramped them together with two fret cramps, then held the sandwich between dogs and again used Wonder Pups to restrict any sideways movement. Also, until the edges were planed, they were not flat so the combination of dogs and pups held them securely without them wobbling about






I also use combination and multi planes which have fences and again find that the combination of dogs and pups useful. You could, in theory, do it all with the Veritas pups and dogs but an end vice makes it easier and faster.

However, having said all that, it's very much a question of how you work and personal preferences. Many woodworkers don't see the point of end vices and manage perfectly well without one - I'd be lost without mine  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## kees (28 Feb 2008)

> I was recently inspired by Paul Chapmans workbench,



well done. Looks like a workbench in your kitchen :roll: 

kees


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## Karl (13 Aug 2009)

Ok, thought i'd resurrect this post as I plan to give the 'bench a bit of a makeover. 

It is still in its orignal condition, complete with MDF vice jaws  

I have some Oak with which I intend to lip the MDF top, some nice 2" Oak for the vice jaws, and plan to put some nice big full extension drawers in the cabinets underneath to house "The Collection"  

I am also going to put a sheet of white backed hardboard on the top as a sacrificial surface. What is the best way of attaching? I want it to be easily removeable (for wheh it gets covered in glue etc). Or maybe i'll just contact adhesive it in place and worry about replacing it when the time comes. 

Cheers

Karl


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## Boz62 (13 Aug 2009)

On my old metalworking bench I used sacrificial hardboard tops for the last 20 years. Just held in place with brass pins at 300mm spacing, and used a punch to make sure they were below the surface. Held together well, and came up easily whenever it needed replacing. No dog-holes though, so that may influence your choice

Boz


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## Paul Chapman (13 Aug 2009)

Karl":e599njx1 said:


> I am also going to put a sheet of white backed hardboard on the top as a sacrificial surface. What is the best way of attaching? I want it to be easily removeable (for wheh it gets covered in glue etc).



Hi Karl,

Just a thought - how about some heavy-duty double sided tape? Probably three strips would do - one down each end and one in the centre. Should be easy to get off by just twisting the hardboard.

I'm always quite amazed at how well this stuff sticks, yet it's easy to get off. But it's worth using the heavy-duty stuff.

Did you get the longer chain sorted out on the vice?

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## xy mosian (13 Aug 2009)

Would the thickness of the double-sided tape coupled with the flexibility of the hardboard not lead to firstly a non-solid surface and secondly ripples?

xy


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## Karl (13 Aug 2009)

Paul Chapman":ukopg4fq said:


> Karl":ukopg4fq said:
> 
> 
> > I am also going to put a sheet of white backed hardboard on the top as a sacrificial surface. What is the best way of attaching? I want it to be easily removeable (for wheh it gets covered in glue etc).
> ...



Hi Paul - no I didn't get the chain sorted - got used to using both screws to tighten the vice. But will defintely add that to the list of stuff to sort out.

How did you stick your hardboard surface down? I'd just be a bit worried about the board flexing inbetween the self adhesive tape. 

Boz - I thought about bradding it in place, and that may be what I end up doing. If I lay out the dogholes first, I can set the brad arrangement around them.

Cheers

Karl


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## Karl (13 Aug 2009)

xy mosian":33bxk7ct said:


> Would the thickness of the double-sided tape coupled with the flexibility of the hardboard not lead to firstly a non-solid surface and secondly ripples?
> 
> xy



XY - you beat me to it :lol: 

Cheers

Karl


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## Paul Chapman (13 Aug 2009)

I wouldn't have thought so, xy :-k Even the heavy-duty tape is very thin so I think the effect would be negligible.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Paul Chapman (13 Aug 2009)

Karl":2gl9ueoh said:


> How did you stick your hardboard surface down?



What hardboard surface :? I've never used a sacrificial top on mine - never really seen the need for it. I just wax it occasionally and that keeps it in good nick - and any glue just "pings" off  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Karl (13 Aug 2009)

My mistake Paul - I thought you had a sacrificial hardboard top.

Cheers

Karl


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## Paul Chapman (13 Aug 2009)

Karl":o5zemyzc said:


> I'd just be a bit worried about the board flexing inbetween the self adhesive tape.



Or you could use, say, three strips of tape length-ways. If there were to be any flexing it would probably be in the length rather than the width.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Karl (13 Aug 2009)

Paul - yes, a little experimentation may be in order. As you say, the tape isn't that thick, so placed lengthways on the bench it would have minimal impact on the overall flatness.

Cheers

Karl


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## Karl (18 Aug 2009)

Quick update.

I decided to relace the top of the bench. It had begun to sag due to a large oversight on my part - the cabinets on which it rested are 1000mm wide, and there was insufficient support underneath to prevent sagging.

So I stripped it all back and this is what it looked like






I then fitted some 4x2 supports inside the cabinets which would provide additional support to the underside of the top






A new top was then placed on top - 4 sheets of MDF. I have decided not to bother with the white hardboard top. Instead I used Paul C's suggestion of double sided tape to stick down the last piece - what a great idea! I initially doubted whether it would work, but it turned out great. The tape is very thin, so doesn't cause any deflection in the work surface ( I ran 4 pieces down the length of the top), and it provides sufficient grip that the piece cannot be moved sideways, but can be lifted if it ever needed to be replaced.  

Anyway, here's a pic of the new top






I finished the top surface with a coat of cellulose sanding sealer, a couple of coats of melamime lacquer and a quick coat of wax. Quick work, as the sealer and lacquer were dry within about 5 minutes. 

The green circles you can see in the top are for the holdfasts which I have ordered from Axminster for my edge jointing jig - see the Hand Tool section if you want further info.






Aside from holding my jointing jig I reckon they will come in very useful for clamping all manner of things to the bench. I've bought a couple of spare collars just so that I can play about with any further locations I may want to site one.

Next up - re-fit the Veritas vice and lip the bench top.

Cheers

Karl


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## Karl (20 Aug 2009)

I managed to get the front aprons and the rear piece lacquered and mounted today.






I finished the AWO boards with the same finish as the top - a coat of sanding sealer and a couple of coats of Chestnut melamime lacquer. It is a great product - dry in about 5 minutes (so you have to work quickly), and gives a heat and waterproof finish. 

I'm hoping to get the front vice fitted tomorrow, and hopefully get the dogholes drilled in the top.

Cheers

Karl


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## wizer (20 Aug 2009)

Snazzy Karl. Good improvement.


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## Paul Chapman (21 Aug 2009)

That's looking really good, Karl.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Karl (21 Aug 2009)

Managed to get a little more done tonight on the workbench.

Fitted the Veritas vice, complete with new Oak jaws







I changed the mounting centres of the screws from 22" to 16". I didn't really use the massive distance between the vice screws, and I expect that the 16" centres will give better clamping force, particularly for smaller items held upright in the vice.

Still haven't fitted the chain - can't get the pipper to work. There is too much slack on it to work effectively - every few rotations it will "slip" on one of the cogs. But it isn't slack enough to use the 1/2 link which is supplied with the kit. :? 

At the moment the rear jaw is held on with two countersunk bolts which screw into hidden nuts in the top. I have another pair of these fixings and think that I will add them for extra security. The jaw feels very solid as it is, but better safe than sorry hey!

Also drilled out a row of dog holes for my substitute tail vice






 

I had thought about fitting a vice on the end of the bench, but there are two problems with that. Firstly, I walk in and out of the 'shop via the door at the end of the bench. So I know that I would be constantly bumping into the new vice. Secondly, when cutting a board by hand, I often use that end of the bench. So a vice would get in the way.

I will add further dogholes at a later date, once i've sorted out my planing arrangement. Next job for now is to make a start on the base units. End panels, kickboard, doors and a few drawers.

Cheers

Karl


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## Paul Chapman (21 Aug 2009)

Karl":i87cv85q said:


> Still haven't fitted the chain - can't get the pipper to work. There is too much slack on it to work effectively - every few rotations it will "slip" on one of the cogs. But it isn't slack enough to use the 1/2 link which is supplied with the kit. :?



How about fitting a hardwood dowel between the two cogs for the chain to run over, thereby raising the chain between the two cogs and taking up the slack?

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Karl (21 Aug 2009)

Nice one Paul. The kit did come with a screw and a plastic bush which could be used to take up the slack on the chain, but there was too much slack to take up and I thought I must have been doing something wrong. But i've just been to the bench and fitted two screws under the chain, therby increasing the tension. Hey presto, it works! 

I'll get a bit of platic tubing to cover the screws tomorrow.

Cheers

Karl


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## Mr Ed (21 Aug 2009)

Looks excellent Karl.

Have you seen this new surface clamp from Veritas - would make an excellent tail vise on this setup. I fancy one when they come out here in the UK.

http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/bl ... erica.aspx

Ed


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## Paul Chapman (21 Aug 2009)

:wink: :wink: 

I must get one of those twin-screw vices when I can afford it - I reckon they are the dog's whatsits 8) 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Karl (21 Aug 2009)

Paul Chapman":2sygh88o said:


> :wink: :wink:
> 
> I must get one of those twin-screw vices when I can afford it - I reckon they are the dog's whatsits 8)
> 
> ...



I had this one for a few years before I fitted it to Mk1 bench. 

I've just had a further tinker with it and fitted the "speed" handle, which just attaches to one of the existing handles. Works a treat now - even clamping pressure right across the jaws (ie both sides close up at the same time). 

Cheers

Karl


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## Karl (21 Aug 2009)

EdSutton":4suapo6c said:


> Looks excellent Karl.
> 
> Have you seen this new surface clamp from Veritas - would make an excellent tail vise on this setup. I fancy one when they come out here in the UK.
> 
> ...



Cheers for the link Ed - I hadn't seen that. Looks like a much better idea than using the wonder dog i've got at the moment!

Bet it won't work out cheap though......

Cheers

Karl


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## Mr Ed (22 Aug 2009)

Karl":bf9glaxf said:


> Bet it won't work out cheap though......



Well probably not - things never do seem to get to the UK and stay a reasonable price. If it was just the Sterling equivalent of the $79 he says it will be then that would be quite reasonable...we'll have to wait and see.

Ed


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## Paul Chapman (22 Aug 2009)

Karl":140aays7 said:


> Looks like a much better idea than using the wonder dog i've got at the moment!



While it's an OKish idea, I think it would have problems in use. The main problem is that it's always going to stick up a certain amount above the bench top (and in some cases higher than the piece of wood you are working on) - unlike traditional dogs in the bench top and vice, which can be raised or lowered as much as necessary. Better than nothing but nowhere near as good as traditional dogs, IMHO.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Mr Ed (22 Aug 2009)

Maybe, but its a quick and easy way ofgetting 90% of the functionality of a tail vise if you don't have one on your bench.

Ed


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## woodbloke (22 Aug 2009)

Paul Chapman":1cru2mm2 said:


> Karl":1cru2mm2 said:
> 
> 
> > Looks like a much better idea than using the wonder dog i've got at the moment!
> ...


...and that's the thing that I'd be worried about. A tail vice (either the traditional sort like I use) or a vice mounted at the end of the bench (like Paul's) is always IMO going to be better simply 'cos the dogs can be located below the surface of the workpiece 
What happens if you want to plane a piece of timber that's only say, 6mm thick? using the V wonder dogie things...no can do. Not impossible but some other method (such as a planing board) needs to be used - Rob


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## Mr Ed (22 Aug 2009)

Well you can hold thin stuff - you just need some thin battens (mine are oak in various sizes) to act as spacers.






I'll save you the trouble of telling me that if you have to make your own wooden spacers that its not a complete system (ref - honing guide discussion) :lol: 

I'm not disputing that a traditional tail or wagon vise is better, but if you don't have one I reckon the wonder dogs or the new surface vise are a good option

Ed


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## Karl (22 Aug 2009)

I agree it isn't an ideal solution, but as Ed says, thinner work can be shimmed.

Next problem - I want to make a couple of drawers for hand tools, and they will be full width (ie 970mm wide), but the one carrying the larger planes will be only 400mm deep (so as not to intefere with the holdfasts). I will probably make them with 18mm ply bases - I reckon this will be strong enough. Maybe a muntin?

Cheers

Karl


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## woodbloke (22 Aug 2009)

EdSutton":2vhelzj1 said:


> Well you can hold thin stuff - you just need some thin battens (mine are oak in various sizes) to act as spacers.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ed - in the pic, which piece are you planing? If it's the middle bit (which looks about 6mm thick) it's clearly below the brass bit of the Vdog - Rob


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## Mr Ed (22 Aug 2009)

No its the other bit - you cannot see the dog beyond the end of the piece.

Ed


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## woodbloke (22 Aug 2009)

EdSutton":2ocp8wl3 said:


> No its the other bit - you cannot see the dog beyond the end of the piece.
> 
> Ed


Thanks Ed...all is clear - Rob


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## Karl (4 Sep 2009)

Been busy with work since my last post, but managed to get some MDF panels cut to size for the doors and end panels. Should have took them to Brad for spraying - feel like i've been painting them for ages (even though it's only 2 undercoat and 2 gloss on each side of each panel).













There are a couple other panels out of shot which are dry.

The kids are away for the weekend from tomorrow morning, so hoping to get the 'bench finished before we go to collect them on Sunday. Unless SWMBO drags me to the boozer all day tomorrow  

Cheers

Karl


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## Karl (7 Sep 2009)

Nearly finished........











Made myself a planing stop too.






Need to work out the spacing for the final row(s) of dog holes, and give the edges of the doors/end panels a light sand a final lick of gloss.

Cheers

Karl


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## Paul Chapman (7 Sep 2009)

Very smart, Karl 8) 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## BigShot (7 Sep 2009)

That's looking great! Nice work.

Can I ask, what's the thing you've got clamped in the vise and stretching across the bench? Is it just a square for lining up the holes or something else entirely?

Also, what's the hole I see, is that for the router or something else entirely?

(Apologies if I've missed an answer to either of those questions earlier in the thread)


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## Karl (7 Sep 2009)

Bigshot - the T-square is the planing stop which I knocked up. The piece of timber is butted up against it in order that it can be worked on with a plane.

The round plate in the table is for a hold down - see half way down Page 3.

Cheers

Karl


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## Gower (8 Sep 2009)

Karl, as I said in another tread, I like your bench very much. The only thing that I would miss is the ability to use clamps on the bench edge. I use Marples hold downs but still seem to need to clamp to the edge quite often. Maybe it's the peculiar way I work :? 
Cheers,
Jim


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## Beardo16 (8 Sep 2009)

Hi Karl 

This build looks great. Could you give me a link to the 2 finishes you used on the sides and doors?


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## BigShot (8 Sep 2009)

Ah ok. I didn't realise you could get hold downs that had plates rather than just slotting into a dog hole.

Again, nice work!


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## Karl (8 Sep 2009)

Thanks for the comments guys.

Beardo - the finish for the door is just ordinary fast drying undercoat and white gloss (Crown). Applied with a roller.

Gower - I can still use F clamps along the front edge and sides of the bench. Although the lipping is thicker than the MDF top, the F clamp screws up against the underside of the MDF, behind the Oak. If that makes any sense? :? 

Cheers

Karl


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## Krysstel (22 Sep 2009)

Quick question Karl :-

I'm planning to finish my new bench with the same sanding-sealer and lacquer you used and wonder what's the best way to apply it - brush or a wad of cloth ?
I realise it has to be put on fast :wink: Never used it before.

Thanks a lot.
Mark


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## Karl (24 Sep 2009)

Krysstel - sorry for delay in replying - i've been on holiday.

I put my finish on with a brush - I don't think you'd get a good finish with a rag. 

Be methodical in applying - it goes off (ie tacky) within a few minutes, so you need to work quickly.

Cheers

Karl


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## Krysstel (25 Sep 2009)

Big soft brush then ? - both for sealer and lacquer ?
And how many coats of each ?

Thanks a lot
Mark


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## Krysstel (15 Oct 2009)

Quick question Karl.
Did you seal and lacquer both sides of your bench top ?
I'm a bit worried about warping if I only finish the top side.
Thanks a lot

Mark


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