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## Claymore (9 May 2017)

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## donwatson (9 May 2017)

Thanks for the thoughts Brian,
I like the sound of the stained glass window idea. I have taken a copy of the suppliers for resin and will have a look at them.

take care
Don W


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## AES (9 May 2017)

Thanks for the various ideas Claymore (Brian). I like the resins idea, though I THINK I remember seeing something similar on a US site (could it have been Mike's Workshop? or Steve Goode?).

Not tried resin myself, though I MAY get round to it "one of these fine wet days"

Another idea I've already tried which worked OK (provided a VERY fine-toothed metal cutting blade is used - Pegas have them) is cut sheet metal.

I've cut brass, ali, tinplate, MS, and nickel silver (called "German Silver" sometimes), all in varying thickness from about 10 up to about 25 thou (inches) so far.

You need a sacrificial under-sheet (thin flat ply is best but dense cardboard works too), taped up with clear parcel tape, and quite a slow stroke speed + v gentle feed. (And it's also quite noisy)! But it does work well, and is very accurate if you go slowly enough.

Note I have not done this for "normal" scroll saw work but rather for knocking out components for other uses (such as oddly-shaped model aircraft fuel tanks, model loco and wagon sides for someone, etc). But I think that "nicely done", a polished nickel silver insert into, say, a key ring or other name tag type thingy could look quite good, though I haven't really thought about exactly how to do it.

BTW, the above sheet materials are quite easy to come by in various thicknesses at model railway shops, (sheet plastics too, though I haven't done any of that) and although the sheet metals are quite expensive (especially nickel silver) I don't think you'd need much for the above ideas. And also BTW, nickel silver is lovely looking stuff - a sort of silvery light brassy colour, and surface corrosion/discolouration is not a big problem - it stays "half shiny/half matt silky" for a long time, and I guess a fine coat of very quick-drying clear varnish would reduce that small risk to nil.

I STILL have not started my aeroplane Intarsia adventure yet (!!!!!!!) but have already been thinking of some small sheet metal parts for aircraft areas which might need it. I'm not sure how it would look as a final result though, nor have I given much thought to exactly how to incorporate it either, but in the same vein as your post (which was certainly NOT too long) I thought I'd share the above.

The big disadvantage I see for anyone who wants to get "commercial" is that I've found cutting sheet metal VERY slow, so I doubt anyone would come even close to covering their man hours.

One final thought I had (which HAS been done before, but I haven't tried it yet) is wood burning to add texture/s & small details - again my aircraft intarsia springs to my mind.

Thanks for a thought provoking post, I hope the above may also be of some interest.

AES


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## NazNomad (9 May 2017)

AES":utkxo09p said:


> ... I THINK I remember seeing something similar on a US site (could it have been Mike's Workshop? or Steve Goode?).




I've seen Steve Good fill scrolled letters with a polymer clay.


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## marcros (9 May 2017)

chippygeoff did a lot of trials and research on using resin, last year sometime I think


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## Claymore (9 May 2017)

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## Alexam (10 May 2017)

Great ideas Brian and wonderful for you to start the thread with some links. I am abouit to try some resin stuff and use different items to inlay behind clear resins. Someone made a complete kitchen floor with resin on top and that idea could be incorporated into wooden items.
Keep up the good work
Malcolm


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## novocaine (10 May 2017)

great ideas, keep em coming. 

I've cut metal on the scrollsaw plenty of times, in fact it is sort of why I have it. my dad used to do it, we had to slow the saw down (don't ask how we did that) but it would happily chomp though 3mm steel, copper or brass. special blades though, will get the name off them next time I'm in the workshop. you have to go slow too, really slow. 

no reason you can't cut aluminium or brass sheet stock with what you already have, issue is that the stock is thin you end up snagging teeth. 

HDPE, or those dirt cheap chopping boards, I cut these a fair bit, they are great for things like toothbrush holders, cut really easy and are wipe clean. 

concrete is a medium of much interest at the moment too, can't say I'd cut it on the scrollie but as an addition to a design it could be interesting.


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## Claymore (10 May 2017)

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## novocaine (10 May 2017)

copper wire Brian. great for inlays and dead easy to do.


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## AES (10 May 2017)

Some interesting ideas here. I like the copper wire idea too (I've got a load of reasonable length off cuts from the recent cellar re-wiring).

novocaine wrote, QUOTE: special blades though, will get the name off them next time I'm in the workshop. UNQUOTE:

As per my earlier post, Pegas make a big range of metal blades, and I'm sure there are others too, including Niqa in Germany. There's a lot of jewellery activity around these parts, and a lot of these people use metal fret saw blades (in hand saw frames I think).

I've got a complete list of the all the spec details of the Pegas metal blades. Anyone who's interested PM me (it's in .pdf so I can't post it directly here). Note however that these details are down-loadable direct from the Pegas web site if you prefer.

Link: www.scies.ch

AES


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## linkshouse (12 May 2017)

I've just received the latest edition of Scrollsaw Woodworking and Crafts and I reckon them Yanks must have been reading our forum and pinching our ideas about mixed media!

There's a pattern in it for a Water Lily box that uses cakemakers stamens for the centre of the lily.

Looks nice mind and so I'm in the process of making one, just waiting for the stamens to be delivered.

Phill


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## AES (12 May 2017)

Yeah, I got the same mag, for some reason it arrived about a week ago, and that box was the only design I (and my wife) fancied. 

Don't know if I'll ever make it or not but I'd love to see yours on here when it's finished.

Going back to my previous point on another thread here, did you see any other designs in that issue of the mag that you liked, or did you find them all a bit to "heavy" like we did?

AES


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## linkshouse (12 May 2017)

AES":mmo2u73d said:


> Yeah, I got the same mag, for some reason it arrived about a week ago, and that box was the only design I (and my wife) fancied.
> 
> Don't know if I'll ever make it or not but I'd love to see yours on here when it's finished.
> 
> ...



I/we really, really didn't like the lion. I think it is a perfect example of what has been said, it looks like a Michelin X man (showing my age now).

To be honest, this quarters mag was the last of my current subscription and I've not renewed. There is rarely anything in it that appeals and the adverts just taunt me :? . I so wish there was a similar UK magazine.

Phill


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## AES (12 May 2017)

Entirely agree Phill. I asked for that mag as a b'day present a couple of years ago ('cos from what I could see of it, I thought it would be good). But just like you, I asked the donor to stop it after I had it for the year (same reason as you) but being a bit of a scatterbrain, it seems she's forgotten to stop her standing order or whatever.

Yup, the Lion was a prime example (and Yes, I do remember the Michelin Man)!

AES


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## Claymore (12 May 2017)

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## linkshouse (12 May 2017)

Claymore":2fil77gj said:


> Do they sell the magazine in the shops here or is it subscription only?
> Imagine the Yanks copying our ideas LOL I'm sure they must have tried everything over there the number of years they have been into scrolling.
> I would love a UK magazine on Scrollsaws but nearest we have is the Woodworking Crafts mag that to is quite insulting with the rubbish projects they do..... they made a coaster by cutting 4" off a pallet scrap and then painted it with Milk Paint? what's milk paint? the magazine seems to be aimed at infant schools who have run out of toilet roll tubes and sticky backed plastic lol



I'm pretty sure it's subscription only.

Oh, well that answers my thoughts on the Woodworking Crafts magazine. Just saved a few bob!

Phill


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## AES (12 May 2017)

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that the Scroll Sawing mag Phill and I were talking about is only on subscription (and as also said, frankly, I'm not sure it's worth the money). Certainly I've never ever seen that mag on sale here, not even in the big book/mag stores which specialise in all sorts of "foreign" stuff.

AES

Edit for P.S. With all the effort that goes into the stuff that appears in this Forum (by quite a few people BTW) perhaps we should set up some sort of "combine" to publish such a mag?

Another P.S. Brian, you know those (to my eyes) awful "off-white" background colours you see on so much "distressed" stuff (I won't use the word "furniture" in this context!) in the shops these days? Well that's milk paint (but no idea if it has any actual milk in it)! The people who make Cascamite powder wood glue these days have a special line of various colours of milk paint. I suppose, judging by the look of most of the stuff I see these days, that at least you don't need to be able to paint or spray properly - just lather it on with a slightly-sharpened telegraph pole would see to be the average level judging by the "finishes" I see! OK, every man/woman to his/her own taste I suppose.

AES


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## Claymore (12 May 2017)

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## AES (12 May 2017)

He looks really great Brian, and no doubt a very good friend. Definite subject for an Intarsia?

AES


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## Claymore (12 May 2017)

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## dynax (15 May 2017)

once i get sorted from my other projects, i am going to try some intarsia's using static flock, i made an applicator so i can use the static grass on my model railway, but you can also get the flock in a range of colours and lengths,


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## NazNomad (16 May 2017)

Anyone had experience with cutting thick leather on their scrollsaw?


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## Claymore (16 May 2017)

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## AES (16 May 2017)

Nope, not tried that. Depending on thickness and "hardness" I GUESS it would be best sandwiched between a couple of sheets of dense (not corrugated) cardboard. But never tried myself.

In answer to a previous post I did say that I have cut thin-ish cork (perhaps 10 mm) before. "Crumbly" cheapo table mats, sheet (better quality) cork, and wine bottle corks (unused, "cork cork", not plastic).

In all cases, it went "OK" (I think I used about a No. 5 skip tooth blade), but quite honestly I don't think the cuts were any better than would have been achieved with a very sharp modeller's scalpel.

AES


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## NazNomad (16 May 2017)

I was thinking of something like 15oz leather, which I believe is about 5-6mm thick. I reckon it would be stiff enough on its own?


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## AES (16 May 2017)

Naz, in all honesty I can only say "dunno mate". Can only suggest you try it, sorry.

AES


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