# Finishing Oak



## JWF (5 Nov 2009)

This question has probably been asked, and answered, many times before but here goes.
An church architect friend of mine has asked what type of finish to use on new oak inside the church he is currently working on. He has recommended Danish Oil, Teak Oil, etc. in the past, but feels that the beauty of the oak is lost in the colour that these oils leave behind due to pigments that have been added. Can anyone shed some light on this problem.
Thanks
John


----------



## Oryxdesign (5 Nov 2009)

Try Osmo wax

http://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/gbu0-prodsh ... x_oil.html

Si


----------



## Chris Knight (5 Nov 2009)

A finishing oil is easily tested by puddling a little on a sheet of glass. Then you can check drying time, clarity and if so inclined and have time, UV resistance.

Using such a test some years ago, I found Liberon finishing oil to be the best of half a dozen I tried. It has no pigments.


----------



## Mike.C (5 Nov 2009)

waterhead37":38ty0ope said:


> A finishing oil is easily tested by puddling a little on a sheet of glass. Then you can check drying time, clarity and if so inclined and have time, UV resistance.
> 
> Using such a test some years ago, I found Liberon finishing oil to be the best of half a dozen I tried. It has no pigments.



Chris, as you know I am about to make an oak dressing table, and I was going to buy some Osmo Polyx Oil (which I have never used before), but after reading your post I am wondering if Liberon might be better. Did your test include Osmo? And do you know if it is as clear (no pigments) as the Liberon?

Cheers

Mike


----------



## Ironballs (5 Nov 2009)

I did a test of Osmo oil v cheapo Danish oil v unfinished and the colour change difference between the two oils was almost indistinguishable. Both darkened the timber. This was on maple


----------



## Digit (6 Nov 2009)

I have in the past always used clear wax. Oil, I find, leaves a much less pleasant feel as it leaves the pores open and wax, of course, fills them.
It also smells nicer!

Roy.


----------



## toysandboats (6 Nov 2009)

John, 
I've very recently used a 2-part plastic coating from Smith & Rodger. I initially tried their 30% sheen but then ordered and used a 10% sheen which gives a very subtle sheen finish letting the grain show through well. 

By diluting it with 20% thinners, I applied it with a brush and the mix stayed usable for at least 3 days - even though they suggested 36 hours. I found that once I had the finish prepared, I finished a few other bits of bare wood!

It is a similar product to the one from Rustin's but as Ian Aslan (S & R MD) subscribes to this forum, I thought I'd try his products and I found him extremely helpful.

I have no connection except as a happy customer

Their address is http://www.frenchpolishes.com

David Ward


----------



## MikeG. (6 Nov 2009)

I use the Rustin's version of the two part plastic-coating very regularly, and in its place it is fantastic stuff.

However, I have my doubts as to whether a church is the right place for it. For a start, it needs to be applied and cure at over 18 celcius (from memory), and I'm not sure that many churches ever get that warm! Secondly, given the nature of churches, it is likely that this oak thingy will still be in use in a hundred years time, and it may be a nightmare for them to try and repair/ renew/ renovate a finish such as that. 

For that reason I would suggest either Liberon Finishing Oil (which is lovely stuff), or a natural beeswax. I'm hoping we won't have killed off all the bees on the planet in a hundred years time.........

Mike


----------



## Mikey R (6 Nov 2009)

waterhead37":25nhqdir said:


> Using such a test some years ago, I found Liberon finishing oil to be the best of half a dozen I tried. It has no pigments.



Hi Chris,

I guess you mean this stuff:







When you say it has no pigments, does that mean that it doesnt turn lighter woods like maple and ash yellow / amber?

Cheers!


----------



## Chris Knight (6 Nov 2009)

Mike.C":35q2f62d said:


> Chris, as you know I am about to make an oak dressing table, and I was going to buy some Osmo Polyx Oil (which I have never used before), but after reading your post I am wondering if Liberon might be better. Did your test include Osmo? And do you know if it is as clear (no pigments) as the Liberon?



Mike,
I did not include Osmo in my tests - it hadn't really hit the market here at the time I did them. I have used it once and I would say it is pretty clear and as far as I can tell has no pigments added to it.



Mikey R":35q2f62d said:


> Hi Chris,
> 
> I guess you mean this stuff:
> 
> ...



Mike,
Most things have some yellowing effect on light woods and if this is a key concern, there are better things than finishing oil - clear waterborne lacquers for example. Liberon isn't bad but it does cause some yellowing. Maple also has a tendency to yellow over time anyway by exposure to light.

The important thing is to test any proposed finishing regime on scrap first. I usually make up a spare board of the wood I am using and tape sections off about 6x6 inches and finish each with the alternatives I am considering. Do keep a record of which section is what though!! DAMHIKT


----------



## Mikey R (6 Nov 2009)

waterhead37":2a1yjnj9 said:


> Mike,
> Most things have some yellowing effect on light woods and if this is a key concern, there are better things than finishing oil - clear waterborne lacquers for example. Liberon isn't bad but it does cause some yellowing. Maple also has a tendency to yellow over time anyway by exposure to light.
> 
> The important thing is to test any proposed finishing regime on scrap first. I usually make up a spare board of the wood I am using and tape sections off about 6x6 inches and finish each with the alternatives I am considering. Do keep a record of which section is what though!! DAMHIKT



Thanks Chris, everything Ive read says that all oil finishes will add a bit of yellow to light coloured species, but Ive no fist hand knowledge so just wanted to check. 

I'd love to get a small sample of all the different options, but thats a project for later when Ive got the time and funds.


----------



## Boz62 (7 Nov 2009)

If you look at this post, you'll see Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (similar to Osmo Polyx) used with beech. The first three photos shows the unfinished beech, and lower down where I drill the dog holes is after it has two coats of the wax oil. Click on the thumbnails for larger versions. These photos were taken under the same lights ("daylight" fluorescents), same digicam. I was pleased with how natural the finish was, just slight darkening. 

Hope that helps

Boz


----------



## Froggy (8 Nov 2009)

Hi chaps, I'm pretty new to woodworking so forgive me if this is a stupid question (I'm probably going to ask a lot of them) , but can you use a spray gun to apply Liberon finishing oil?

Cheers Tim.


----------



## MikeG. (8 Nov 2009)

You probably could, but I can't think of a single reason why you would. It is a slap-on wipe-off product. No great care involved.

Mike


----------



## Froggy (8 Nov 2009)

Just shows how green I am Mike oops: . But thanks for answering the quetion. 

Tim. :


----------



## artHarris (14 Nov 2009)

In such company, I am hesitant to suggest..........Ronseal satin polyurethane varnish.
I have used it on many pieces of oak furniture over the years, and the change in wood colour is mostly with ageing, not due to the product. 

I dilute the first coat 50:50 with turps or white spirit (usually the latter) and apply 2 further full strength coats, making sure each coat is hard dry first.
The finish is very hard wearing and easy to maintain.

(If I knew how to post pictures, I could illustrate this)


----------



## Davidadew (4 Jan 2010)

For oak I tend to use Liberon wax finishes. Clear if I want to retain the wood's natural colour as far as is possible (although it isn't exactly as it is natural as light shines off it etc.) or I use their coloured waxes on oak to get a darker colour. E.g. antique pine colour on red oak works well - but always as people say test on scrap wood first. And the more coats the darker the colour, and I guess if you want only one layer for colour then you could possibly add clear wax on top as 1 layer in my view isn't enough, but have never tried that myself.

But wax can be quite hard work to finish if doing by hand - putting on initially is relatively simple but all the buffing is harder work, particularly with corners. Alan Peters suggests waxing pieces before putting together, but that doesn't work for all projects.


----------



## Graeme (4 Jan 2010)

I looked at this thread some time ago and decided to take the plunge. Osmo Ployx is fantastic. I used it on a set of Oak wardrobe doors that I stained with Medium Oak stain from Liberon. The finish was excellent with just the two coarts and very forgiving i.e. easy to apply. 

Can not recommend it highly enough.


----------



## RogerS (28 Jan 2010)

Oryxdesign":lwvf7pxn said:


> Try Osmo wax
> 
> http://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/gbu0-prodsh ... x_oil.html
> 
> Si



Sorry to differ but I find this stuff colours the oak badly and is full of pigment.


----------



## Oryxdesign (28 Jan 2010)

RogerS":28c5eq2f said:


> Oryxdesign":28c5eq2f said:
> 
> 
> > Try Osmo wax
> ...



Don't know which one you've been using but the clear one is pretty much clear. I use 3052.


----------



## RogerS (28 Jan 2010)

I'll take look at my tin. I thought it was clear but then again....


----------



## Jake (28 Jan 2010)

Do you mean pigmented, or just that it gives oak a yellow (being polite, honeyed) cast like any oil?

It isn't a water-based acrylic, but for an oil it's not bad - less glorpy than linseed.


----------



## mr grimsdale (29 Jan 2010)

JWF":2jarmpfw said:


> This question has probably been asked, and answered, many times before but here goes.
> An church architect friend of mine has asked what type of finish to use on new oak inside the church he is currently working on. He has recommended Danish Oil, Teak Oil, etc. in the past, but feels that the beauty of the oak is lost in the colour that these oils leave behind due to pigments that have been added. Can anyone shed some light on this problem.
> Thanks
> John


It won't be pigment it's just the oil and wood together. More obvious with old oak which can go a very dark reddish brown with pure pigment free oil. 
If he doesn't like the finishes why not just leave them off? Lots of old oak is unfinished in any way.


----------



## RogerS (1 Feb 2010)

Just dug out my test piece of oak finished with Aquacoat from Smith and Rodger. Negligible colouration of the oak. Very easy to apply. Water based. Out of curiosity and because I need to seal/finish off the new oak flooring in the bathroom I poured some water onto the Aquacoat and left it for two hours and then wiped it off.

Minimal dark patch where the water was and by the next day, it had gone completely.


----------

