# Does anyone cover their lathe?



## Brianp (23 Nov 2013)

I was wondering this - I went to the shed today to do some turning and there was a lot of condensation on the lathe. I suppose this is only natural given the general atmospheric conditions prevailing but I also wondered whether or not this is of concern for the machinery. Rust being the main one, and a protective layer has been observed on the motor spindle.

Is this just a fact of life?

Does anyone cover their lathe, particularly in an unheated workspace? If so, with what?

Should I treat the lathe with some sort of protective oil? 

Thanks folks.


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## Dalboy (24 Nov 2013)

I don't cover the lathe as it is in a heated workshop but my bandsaw which has a cast table is not(will not fit in the workshop) so I cover this with plastic sheeting hung over it loosely this I found gives it enough protection from condensation I also wax the table to help let the wood slid over it so this also gives a little protection. So far after two years no sign of rust at all.


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## CHJ (24 Nov 2013)

Yes, big lathe has an old mattress cover thrown over it, small metal lathe has a cheap cot blanket over it.
Both prove very effective in preventing condensation settling.


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## rdesign (24 Nov 2013)

i just wax my machines with renasiance wax and cover them with 3m x 3m dust sheets from lidl that cost a few euros


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## boysie39 (24 Nov 2013)

I had a couple of old bath towels over mine and they worked a treat . I did have a duvet cover over it at one stage but Clair said if I didn't put it back on her bed she would leave Hmmm !!! My shed was very damp I also had an electric heater on low under the lathe as well . :lol: :roll: :roll: 

As someone else said polish helps as well . I used a furniture spray polish it seemed to help as well .


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## YewTube (24 Nov 2013)

Condensation occurs when warm air which has a high humidity meets something cold. When you are in the shed you are breathing out moisture laden air. When you leave the metal things cool fastest and condense the moisture. Try putting in some ventilation to dispel the warm air when the shed is empty.

I have a bandsaw in a lean-to which is open on two sides and don't have a condensation problem.

Bill


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## Spindle (24 Nov 2013)

Hi

If I had to worry about condensation in my workshop I'd use regular applications of this:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/liberon-lubricating-wax

I use it anyhow as it greatly reduces friction on all sliding surfaces - so double whammy.

Keeping tooling warmer than the surrounding atmosphere is the ultimate solution - a low wattage incandescent light bulb or (winemaker's), heater mat in the tool cabinet will achieve this. For a lathe, a small low powered oil filled radiator will work - think heated towel rail.
Covering with a breathable material will help but I'd shy away from 'waterproof' covers, polythene sheet etc as these can compound the issue by trapping moisture next to the machine..

Regards Mick


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## Brianp (24 Nov 2013)

Thanks guys, seems like some old dust sheets or similar at least would be a good idea at this time of year. Will keep an eye out for that wax or similar too next time I'm buying.


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## tekno.mage (24 Nov 2013)

All my equipment is in an unheated barn and I cover equipment when not in use with sheets of polythene after waxing the bed bars with normal woodwax - which also makes the tailstock and banjo slide along nicely!


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## Rhossydd (24 Nov 2013)

Yes, I work in an unheated garage that's rather too damp. I cover my lathe bed bars(and cast iron machine tables) with old sheeting and it really helps prevent rust. I also use MetalGuard Ultra anti-rust coating, which also seems to help keep corrosion at bay on exposed ferrous parts.


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## winemaker (24 Nov 2013)

Mines in an unheat garage, I wipe the lathe over with an oiled rag after sweeping all the shaving etc: then I cover the motor parts with an old piece of curtain then I cover the whole lathe with a plastic sheet. Its my baby and needs to be pampered :lol:


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## bogmonster (24 Nov 2013)

I live in a very damp corner of the uk and really don't try very hard to keep the condensation away. I now have some renaisance wax so will try that on tools. In the main part of my workshop I have some sizable cast items and they condense before everything else. When my monster of an anvil starts to rust a bit I know it is time to lite the forge. The lathe can take its chances, the anvil, leg vice and fly press are kings in my workshop.


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## KimG (25 Nov 2013)

Lubricating wax is made for this, protects against moisture and moving parts really Glide.


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## Jacob (25 Nov 2013)

If you get condensation at all you'd still get it however much wax you put on but it will run off - perhaps into the machine :shock: 
Better to cover things, better still to fix the condensation by keeping the temperature up a bit, and stopping draughts.


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## mind_the_goat (25 Nov 2013)

I have to cover my machines due to masses of condensation dripping from the RSJ's supporting the (uninsulated) roof in the garage. Never thought about condensation forming directly on the cold metal, would covering them trap any such condensation and cause even more problems? Maybe I should just avoid placing things under the beams, or insulate the roof of course.


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## CHJ (25 Nov 2013)

As long as any metal equipment is a couple of degrees warmer than the surrounding air the moisture in the air will not condense out onto it.
My lathes are located such that they get sunlight heating during daylight hours, that and the over night covers retaining any residual motor heat has always been enough to keep them clear.

The tool cabinet holding chucks and all associated tooling has a low wattage (7-9) bulb in the base running 24/7/365 and that's enough to make all metal items taken from it to feel warm to the touch.

If machines don't get warmed due to surplus residual heat then a suitable low wattage bulb or a vivarium heater mat placed underneath them should be sufficient.

In the days gone by I had a small battery charger feeding a car sidelight bulb in the bottom of my tool cupboard and the combined heat from the bulb and waste heat from the transformer were more than adequate.

I've even bolted a couple of 10 ohm resistors to a tablesaw table and connected them to an old 12v 3amp charger unit for someone to achieve the same thing. The resistors + transformer heat were more than enough.


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## YewTube (26 Nov 2013)

mind_the_goat":32r98s2c said:


> Never thought about condensation forming directly on the cold metal, would covering them trap any such condensation and cause even more problems?.



Have a look at this thread from 2006. Same physics applies today.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/garage-roof-insulation-t9543.html

Bill


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## wizard (26 Nov 2013)

Never cover my lathe nothing wrong with rust or dust


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## boysie39 (26 Nov 2013)

wizard":29gw5zz6 said:


> Never cover my lathe nothing wrong with rust or dust



Wizard I really think you should retract that post ,Jost in case people as foolish as you might read it .


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## Teepeg (26 Nov 2013)

I throw my old lumber jacket coats over the Lathes, and spray these and the bandsaw table with silicne releas spray ..


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## Lons (26 Nov 2013)

mind_the_goat":1ky4njbr said:


> I have to cover my machines due to masses of condensation dripping from the RSJ's supporting the (uninsulated) roof in the garage. Never thought about condensation forming directly on the cold metal, would covering them trap any such condensation and cause even more problems? Maybe I should just avoid placing things under the beams, or insulate the roof of course.



It would help to box in the RSJs. Not difficult with timber / plasterboard or OSB, or just stick polystyrene to the metal with liquid nails. As far as the roof is concerned it would always be my first priority.

Bob


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## CHJ (26 Nov 2013)

Teepeg":3k99ptz5 said:


> I throw my old lumber jacket coats over the Lathes, and spray these and the bandsaw table with silicne releas spray ..


I personally keep anything containing silcones away from surfaces that will have contact with or provide transfer risks to wood.

Nothing worse for preventing a bond of adhesive or surface finish.


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## SVB (11 Dec 2013)

I have a wood and metal lathe in the same workshop and am keen that the metal lathe, being all oily, doesn't end up covered in dust.

I recently found that Riley (amongest others) make snooker table covers, with weighted corners so the cover sits nicely, out of a very complient, but tough, polythene type material. I got a 8' table cover for around a tenner, new, on eBay that did the job a treat. Obviously 4', 6', 8' amd 12' varients are also available and are much cheaper that the bespoke covers some offer.

S


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## mind_the_goat (11 Dec 2013)

Lons":4ivgyudk said:


> It would help to box in the RSJs. Not difficult with timber / plasterboard or OSB, or just stick polystyrene to the metal with liquid nails. As far as the roof is concerned it would always be my first priority.
> Bob



Thanks, hadn't thought of just doing the joists, keep thinking about the whole roof and putting it off.


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## graduate_owner (11 Dec 2013)

I have a fairly large workshop (18 x 40 feet) and really do have a moisture problem. I've been intending to insulate the roof since the workshop was built but too many distractions. As others have said, I protect machinery tables with anti rust treatments and this year intend to cover the machines as well. Unheated workshops are a real pain in winter, and my dust extraction soon sucks out any heat. I just don't spend much time there when the temperature drops. And in the summer of course, there's the garden and lawns to do. No wonder I don't have much in the way of woodworking skills.

K


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## Fred Page (26 Dec 2016)

I use a 16 in. 45 Wat. electric fan on a time switch set to come on for say 15 minutes every hour during those periods of high humidity, extreme temperature changes etc. This appears to work well at very low cost. I am unsure of the theory of this practice but it seems to work. Presumably condensation is reduced when the air mass is moving?


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## sploo (26 Dec 2016)

Damp garage here; covers on everything. Metal surfaces pretty much rust in front of my eyes, so liberon lubricating wax used liberally too.


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## NazNomad (27 Dec 2016)

I threw an old duvet over mine today. The metal roof was dripping like a council kid's nose.


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## Robbo3 (29 Dec 2016)

2013 thread but still relevant.

The one thing that gave me the most benefit was replacing the old asbestos type roof with clear twin wall polycarbonate. If you want to really go to town on the issue, you can get bronze tinted triple wall.

An over the top option for most people but if your roof drips condensation like most concrete sectional buildings do, then the cost may be worth it.
Just priced what mine would cost to re-do. 20' x 8' concrete sectional garage would be £300 for the roofing sheets, glazing bars, sealing tape & fixings. This presumes the 'A' frames, purlins, wallplate & gable ends are sound.


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## fred55 (31 Dec 2016)

My workshop come van garage is not heated so all the iron topped equipment are covered with sheets which now stops condensation forming - for some reason I have most condensation forming on the tyres of the vehicle - they do say that the good ventilation is necessary to prevent condensation something I need to look at as my garage is almost a sealed container. And there's a spare blanket in the back of the van for when I need a power-nap which is getting more frequent I blame the wood dust.


You have got me started on the condensation issues - was going to improve ventilation by stripping some roof and putting vent tiles on but going to try out the roof covering lap ventilators - have ordered 10 at £ 24 will report there effect in due course, it may help someone.


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## thelastgizmo (9 Jan 2017)

My lathe bed is made up of a couple of large plain steel bars (Old Coronet No.1) so rusts quite easily. I try to keep it covered and keep the rails lightly oiled when I remember. It helps to keep the tailstock and rest moving smoothly when adjusting too.


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## graduate_owner (10 Jan 2017)

What I find a problem is not so much the lathes, but all the small bits and pieces - wood chisels, planes, chucks, jaws etc etc. I like the idea of a heated cupboard or two for all those fiddly bits.

K


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## CHJ (10 Jan 2017)

graduate_owner":2mz88vv3 said:


> What I find a problem is not so much the lathes, but all the small bits and pieces - wood chisels, planes, chucks, jaws etc etc. I like the idea of a heated cupboard or two for all those fiddly bits.
> 
> K



My high tech. solution is an old set of Kitchen draws (melamine faced chipboard carcase) with a 7-9? watt light bulb in it running 24/7. 

One draw has false 'shelf' fitted with suitable holes to locate rests, Jacobs chucks, centres etc. and bulb is located under, enough heat percolates through the rest of the structure to keep all the chucks and lathe accessories warm to the touch compared with any metalwork in the shop.

My Turning tools don't suffer from corrosion, maybe because they are higher up on internal corner, and the shop has steel framed windows that do collect condensation on cold nights.

Way back in the 1960's I had a tall tool cupboard in my garage with a 7 watt car sidelight bulb running off a transformer in the base. (spare household door and simple frame and hardboard construction) which seemed to work Ok despite having a wet vehicle housed in the there at times.


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## fred55 (23 Jan 2017)

This thread is one that also effected me - problem rust forming on unprotected iron surfaces and in my case van and tyres !. My workshop garage has tiles roof insulated walls and insulated double garage doors and no heating until I put it on. After reading up decided to increase ventilation using brattish openers - these simply open the overlapping brattish cover. After 3 weeks I have to say it has been a good result no condensation - the first place to have condensation in my case the lower half of the van and tyres have been damp free and so have all iron surfaces and tools. So increase in ventilation has very much cured / eased my own condensation problem.


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## mayo.mick (23 Jan 2017)

fred55":if2cuq5z said:


> This thread is one that also effected me - problem rust forming on unprotected iron surfaces and in my case van and tyres !. My workshop garage has tiles roof insulated walls and insulated double garage doors and no heating until I put it on. After reading up decided to increase ventilation using brattish openers - these simply open the overlapping brattish cover. After 3 weeks I have to say it has been a good result no condensation - the first place to have condensation in my case the lower half of the van and tyres have been damp free and so have all iron surfaces and tools. So increase in ventilation has very much cured / eased my own condensation problem.



I think ventilation is one of the best cures for condensation.


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## sploo (24 Jan 2017)

mayo.mick":eyydndc9 said:


> I think ventilation is one of the best cures for condensation.


I'm trying to square that vs heating.

For years I've worked out of a garage that's hole(ier) than the Pope; thin asbestos roofing, and absolutely no insulation value. I get water dripping off the underside of the roof, but also often a gale blowing through gaps in the ceiling/wall interface and doors. Loads of condensation, and a constant fight against rust.

I'm about to move into a larger space that should be much better - thick breezeblock walls, insulated roof and door. My plan was to try to introduce a bit of gentle background heating to combat condensation, but should I also be looking to try to ventilate? I had also considered adding a small dehumidifier if there were damp problems.


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## fred55 (24 Jan 2017)

Hi Sploo - I have had a good result in my 6m x 6m workshop come garage by increasing the ventilation - sound greedy but my other double garage equally enclosed never suffers condensation this I put down to the central heating boiler being there. So its a cross between ventilation or background heating that I find stops the rust/condensation.


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## sploo (25 Jan 2017)

fred55":1qiiotc2 said:


> Hi Sploo - I have had a good result in my 6m x 6m workshop come garage by increasing the ventilation - sound greedy but my other double garage equally enclosed never suffers condensation this I put down to the central heating boiler being there. So its a cross between ventilation or background heating that I find stops the rust/condensation.


I'm trying to think how I'd achieve that - the new garage has two walls (rear, right) underground (it's set into a garden that runs over several levels). The left wall is open to the elements, but has steel reinforcement as there's an annex on top of the garage. The door is currently a rolling shutter, though I might replace it with double doors.

I suppose I could have a vent in front (when/if I install a new front with doors), and perhaps get a vent through the ceiling at the rear; which would come through the rear wall on the annex above the garage. I assume that would then need fan(s) to pull air through, but how would you balance that vs heating on a cold day?

I.e. if it were 5 degrees outside and I were trying to keep the garage at a minimum of 10C, would you run the fan(s) for long enough to complete an air exchange, then heat and leave that air for 24 hours (then repeat)?


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## Johnhall (12 Feb 2018)

It’s really a good idea to keep them covered..one to stop rust forming..and two..to prevent dust settling on oiled parts causing unnecessary wear on moving parts


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## Lazurus (12 Feb 2018)

Lubricating wax on exposed metal surfaces and some calico dust sheets with rare earth magnets stitched into the corners for the machines, also a cheap dehumidifier running through the colder months to clear up any damp. Works for me.


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## TopCat 32 (12 Feb 2018)

yes, cover mine with 2 or 3 old bath towels in the winter, so far so good


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