# Jewelery box



## devonwoody (11 Aug 2013)

Switching my interest for the time being to some jewelery boxes.

A granddaughter has expressed her preference to a box similar to this design.( the picture is of a toolbox I store my pen turning equipment)







So I have prepared two pieces of timber Lacewwood (London plane) and sapele.


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## paul saunders (11 Aug 2013)

I don't mean to be picky, but there is three pieces of wood there. #-o #-o


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## devonwoody (11 Aug 2013)

One piece of the sapele is wider because it will involve cutting the lid off from the box and that looses 3.2mm. 

I have 5 granddaughters so that wider piece should come in. :wink:


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## devonwoody (12 Aug 2013)

A bit more preparation of timber done, these strips have been reduced to 18mm wide and 9mm thick.






The London plane, lacewood, was very difficult to work with on this occasion, putting the batten through the bandsaw and I got drift off the fence on two of the three pieces. (there was no drift cutting the sapele at the same fence setting)
The drift was so great that even forcefully holding the batten against the fence the drift would not return to its line. To me that means there is a grain variation that steers the cut and not some misalignment of the tracking because all other four cuts went perfectly, two would not.
What are your views?


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## devonwoody (14 Aug 2013)

More machine work done on strips, lengths prepared ready to mitre ends.






Upto the present time I have not made a working plan for this box, just sketches. However things are coming to a head I need to start working out lids and bases also drawer sliders, this has slowed me down the past two days but crunch time is nigh.

I would like a decorative top, (300x 200 around 6mm thick) anyone got a piece spare for sale?


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## devonwoody (19 Aug 2013)

Delay due to design changes, box dimensions reduced to 9" x6" x 4" decided the lady would need a very wealthy husband to fill the original size.

So recut the strips above, having to put back an old 60T tablesaw blade, my last new blade had gone blunt and was chipping and bearding.
Old blade a better quality and making better cuts.

Made a veneer lid, used titebond 3 diluted and had no problems at all.

ply base for lid






cut veneers, I think they are lacewood , London plane






Glued up very nicely.


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## devonwoody (20 Aug 2013)

Some more progress yesterday, or disaster depends which way I look at it.

In the past when making items with a stripe pattern I usually glue the pieces making up a board, somehow this did not happen on this occasion and when I came to the glueing stage of making the carcass I suddenly found I had got all those pieces, 24 of them and they had to be fitted and placed accurately. It felt just like an exam paper.

Four of the pieces I had put on the router table and rebated to both sides so that when box lid was cut apart it would only need a hand saw to separate. Never done this method before but it has potential to make a neat and easy line for lid to meet box?






Anyway bit the bullet and finished the top section of the project glued piece by piece with titebond 3 which had started to go off and worked like an impact glue :wink:






The lower section which has got to house the drawer unit is the next problem and that is in many pieces as well. Good job I already have white hair.


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## monkeybiter (20 Aug 2013)

Please keep going with the WIP, makes interesting reading for a learner.


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## devonwoody (21 Aug 2013)

I am having problems again, I seem to be lurching from b ups. to b ups.

The lower section of this box is going to be a drawer unit and I obviously had not forward planned this section assuming at the time that drawers are easy and there should be a way through. 

The box has a compartment at top and a drawer below, I decided the drawer front would be false and would cover the box frame.






I got out my jig I use for making mortises using a hand held router, and making all the stops etc. I spent an hour setting up








I did cut a good section out of the frame for the drawer aperture but then decided there was an imperfection I could clean up with a second pass of the router, that's when disaster struck and broke up the workpiece.






I was not feeling too happy after spending so much time on that operation however I added the final two layers of the carcass and will find a solution hopefully to the drawer aperture today.


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## Mr_P (21 Aug 2013)

Anyone for Jenga ?

Looking good Devon, are you planning another 4 before Christmas ?


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## devonwoody (22 Aug 2013)

Mr_P":111ryqsh said:


> Anyone for Jenga ?
> 
> Looking good Devon, are you planning another 4 before Christmas ?




Jenga, I had to google that one, I have got plenty of waste strips so I could make my own possibly.

http://www.cnmonline.co.uk/giant-tower- ... tAodmDUAcw

With five granddaughters and three daughters I might be kept busy, the project is coming right at last.


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## MickCheese (22 Aug 2013)

That broken piece should just glue back, should it not?

Looking good. 

Mick


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## devonwoody (22 Aug 2013)

MickCheese":11dbboid said:


> That broken piece should just glue back, should it not?
> 
> Looking good.
> 
> Mick




No it did not on this occasion, I had to rebuild and it is displayed later in pictures below.

Progress was good yesterday, after the attempt at shaping the drawer aperture at the top rail mentioned above, this time a new approach to creating the top and bottom rails was made. A hand start at shaping the first 18 mm cutout was commenced as per picture using hand saw and chisel.






Then taken to the band saw and completed the cut to both rails, (top and bottom).






Glued in position as per photo and other portions complete with rebates for base.






The box in my opinion will need extra support strength added to this area because of likely heavy use in future so arrows indicate where back up strips will be added.


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## devonwoody (25 Aug 2013)

Still progressing with this box, cutting some 4 mm oak faced ply and planing to size on the shooting board these are for the bottom drawer and the base of box.






Fitted and glued to the drawer without any rebate or support at present. Might add stringers to the inside edge but thinking of partitions to come perhaps.











a further piece dry fitted to the base of box for present.






A neighbour has given me some silk hand painted pieces for me to line each compartment of the box as per pictures below. I have in mind gluing them with diluted pva (which I assume will be transparent when dry?) .


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## Baldhead (28 Aug 2013)

DW any more WIP pics? 

Baldhead


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## devonwoody (28 Aug 2013)

Baldhead":tgarssch said:


> DW any more WIP pics?
> 
> Baldhead




Yes, but my mistress is keeping me occupied, however some drawer work is progressing well :wink:  

Will post in the very near future.


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## devonwoody (28 Aug 2013)

The box is progressing but slowly at the moment, it is harvest time in our garden and the lady is demanding my services.

The drawer runners have been put in bottom drawer compartment and fit quite well.
(The drawer was remade to a more sympathetic colour match to the main box so you might notice the colour change posted earlier above.)











The drawer front is to have a false front made with stripes to match the carcass, hopefully I can start on this later today. In the meantime some of the fruits of our harvest this morning.


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## richard.heaton (28 Aug 2013)

Wow, plenty of hours have gone into that box. Looking good though!!


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## paultnl (28 Aug 2013)

A neighbour has given me some silk hand painted pieces for me to line each compartment of the box as per pictures below. I have in mind gluing them with diluted pva (which I assume will be transparent when dry?) .
/quote said:


> I would be very wary of using diluted pva especially as they are hand painted, runs would be a disaster. I have no idea what to suggest apart from trying to find a silk expert.


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## devonwoody (29 Aug 2013)

Paultnl. I am going to do a trial run with a piece of silk, the painter told me it should not run, the paint is not watercolour.

The box is still progressing, I did an overall sanding with 80 grit whilst the project was still in one piece and then commenced the process of removing the lid with a Japanese type saw, and cleaned up with a block plane as per pictures.











Some problems getting a good line of lid to carcass, my hands are not so steady these days so I must have wandered a bit, however I am satisfied with the outcome.











Getting prepared for the drawer front.






And going to look for some hinges Friday.


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## Graham Orm (29 Aug 2013)

Looking good DW. Thanks for taking the time to do the WIP


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## marcros (29 Aug 2013)

devonwoody":3p89df4x said:


> Paultnl. I am going to do a trial run with a piece of silk, the painter told me it should not run, the paint is not watercolour.
> 
> The box is still progressing, I did an overall sanding with 80 grit whilst the project was still in one piece and then commenced the process of removing the lid with a Japanese type saw, and cleaned up with a block plane as per pictures.
> 
> ...



https://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/ind ... ic=16248.0 might offer comfort on the silk gluing.

For hinges, if you cant find any locally, then Isaac Lord had some nice solid brass butt hinges in small sizes. http://www.isaaclord.co.uk/productDetai ... arentCat=5 part number 20440, and they do another which is not on the website 20140 which is a bit narrower. They need polishing though- they are unfinished when you get them, and you will need some screws.


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## devonwoody (29 Aug 2013)

Thanks Marcros for those links


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## AndyT (29 Aug 2013)

Just thinking aloud about the silk... it could look quite different if all stuck down smooth, and maybe would not be as nice as it looks at present. I think I would try cutting a piece of thick card very slightly smaller than the inside of the drawer. The silk needs to be an inch or so bigger than the card all round. Wrap the silk around it, gluing it onto the back of the card only, stretching it taut. Mitre the corners so it doesn't bunch up thick. Maybe consider putting a thin layer of something soft between the silk and the card - dressmakers and tailors use various sorts of linings inside things like jacket lapels to add a bit of bulk so maybe your friend would have some. Then when the silk is nicely stretched over the card and the glue has dried, glue the back of the card+silk assembly with dabs of glue in the corners and press it down into the drawers.

Disclaimer - this is just my rambling not something I have done - so do try it out on offcuts first - but I think it's a trad method for baize linings in things like mathematical instrument cases.


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## devonwoody (30 Aug 2013)

Thanks Andy, your comments are very valid and another reason perhaps why this project is not rushing along.

Actually the design is not really egonomical (or whatever the word should be) nearly 50%of the space of the box is area unusable for its purpose.


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## devonwoody (1 Sep 2013)

Progressing well.

The drawer front was cut to size on the tablesaw and then put on the router table to round over its edges. Titebond and also dabs of superglue are used to attach the front to the drawer carcass, the stripes are also aligned to match. (superglue is added to get an immediate grab to avoid any slippage whilst piece is awaiting a set plus some masking tape instead of clamps)











Front drawer now fitted.






So the next step is hinging of the lid, I have obtained a reasonable quality butt hinge in brass from a local old fashioned hardware shop (very few left) and I also have a length of piano hinge. 

In a quandary, I would like to fit the piano hinge to the rear outside (because that's easy, just clamp the lid and box together and slap on the piano hinge to the outside faces), but I will read up again how to fit internal hinges and perhaps I will get a good line up this time after many years of trying. 







any links or advice how you fit but hinges are welcome.


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## Baldhead (1 Sep 2013)

DW The Woodwhisper does a nice video on YouTube, David Barron also has a YouTube channel (although David is using it to sell his marking gauge). To get the positioning correct you could make up a 'memory type stick' and measure from the edge of the box/lid. As I too have had problems in the past fitting hinges, any WIP pictures would be a big help as I now avoid hinge fitting like the plague.

HTH

Baldhead


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## Baldhead (2 Sep 2013)

Devonwoody

You have a PM

Baldhead


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## devonwoody (3 Sep 2013)

There were some very useful tips I learnt yesterday, and a good one for me was to use a clean shoe brush to shine the wax polish on a finished box. Put the hinge on the lid first because you do not have the additional weight to manoeuvre when setting things up, a marking gauge using a block of wood with a steel sharpened screwhead set to the depth of the hinge. Ask Baldhead to see his video.


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## fby (3 Sep 2013)

The box is looking great.

From my experience messing about with material in the past I agree with what Andy said about wrapping the silk around card to line the drawers. 

I don't know if it would work with your box, but another potential use for the silk would be to make a cushion insert for an area of a drawer. These can be used like pin cushions to store earrings neatly in their pairs. Although silk might be a bit too delicate, I'm not sure.


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## devonwoody (3 Sep 2013)

Thanks all for your thoughts, it was too hot in the shed for me again today, and I had been celebrating a very advanced birthday. :wink:


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## Graham Orm (3 Sep 2013)

Lovely stuff, happy birthday ccasion4:


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## Baldhead (3 Sep 2013)

Pleased I could help with the video DW, Paul makes fitting hinges so simple, I've tried and it never quite works for me, but I'll keep trying because one day...........

BH


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## devonwoody (4 Sep 2013)

Baldhead":2nqourpk said:


> Pleased I could help with the video DW, Paul makes fitting hinges so simple, I've tried and it never quite works for me, but I'll keep trying because one day...........
> 
> BH




Its a push over when the lids are larger than the carcass. :wink:


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## mseries (4 Sep 2013)

I really like the WIP threads with pictures. May I ask a general question about small boxes. How do we attach the hinges if the sides of the box are thin, say, only quarter inch thick ? Where do people source small hinges and screws/pins ? The boxes I'd like to make are not going to be decorative ones like jewelry boxes so nothing fancy is required - just small. Thanks, Martin


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## devonwoody (4 Sep 2013)

If you must have a hinge for that type of box a piano hinge cut to length and fitted to the outside of carcass and lid works, or two butt hinges but they are usually heavier.

I did pick up a butt type hinge the other day less than 1mm thick and some people slot them into the thickness of timber but the lifetime use would be quite short imo.


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## devonwoody (5 Sep 2013)

Well those butt hinges did not work for me again even reading all those useful instructions sent me by members. I tried every which way to get the lid to sit square and nicely on the carcass. I even tried this;






So I reverted to this.






The lid fits OK but I need to get some more screws that fit.

BTW the butt hinges (I got eight sets from EDavies Securit brand but the screws are no longer brass and they came with Phillips type brass plated screws which do not fit the hinge very well) so off to our local screw shop to get some before they no longer stock traditional brass screws and use this metric Phillips stuff. 

Knobs are hopefully also coming today from forum member Dave62m so I should post again shortly.


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## Racers (5 Sep 2013)

Hi Woody

I have loads of small brass screws let me know the size and number you want and I will send them to you FOC

Pete


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## devonwoody (5 Sep 2013)

Racers":345ab48y said:


> Hi Woody
> 
> I have loads of small brass screws let me know the size and number you want and I will send them to you FOC
> 
> Pete



Thanks Pete, I got a box of no. 2 & 4 half inch this morning but I had to visit two places plus a six foot length of piano hinge. So now I am set up.

Thinking I might inlay the piano hinges into the box above later, so still plenty to do on this first box.


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## devonwoody (7 Sep 2013)

Still working on this one.

Dave62m has kindly made me some drawer knobs as per picture below and he told me he enjoyed making them and is happy to make more again in the future, so you never know I might be lucky and get more great grand children and need more in the future.





Here is an interesting picture a hinged cupboard door (but could be a box if laid on its back) but look how the hinge is fitted (and it works perfectly) it is sunken in to double the thickness of the hinge and on the other surface it lies flush.






So what are the downside of doing this to my boxes?


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## marcros (7 Sep 2013)

DW. Just lost a long post, so will just summarise. I personally don't like the hinge on the "interesting" picture. It doesn't look quite right. Not taken with the piano hinge either, but just my opinion. 

If the fitting/aligning of the hinges is causing issues that a jig cannot simplify, what about looking for a brass version of a wooden hinge (google images). I don't know if they exist, but a surface mounted decorative hinge would be very quick for a little job I have to make soon(ish). 

Alternatively, what about barrel hinges http://www.romanys.co.uk/12-mm-barrel-h ... -489-p.asp. 

As for the stained glass- I like that idea. Could you reverse paint a glass panel, and combine your other hobby?


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## devonwoody (7 Sep 2013)

Hi. Marcros, doesn't it make you swear when you loose a response or whatever. :twisted: 

That hinge fitted to the cabinet is untidy I agree because the recess cutout was too large. Will give it a trial run on some project in the future and accept or reject. :wink:


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## devonwoody (8 Sep 2013)

Knobs from Dave m62 on back screwed with a dab of adhesive.







Back to the hinge, close up of present situation.






Not happy with appearance at back of box so I am attempting to disguise the hinging and put a wood moulding on top of both flaps. Made a moulding on the router table and then thinned it down on the bandsaw.






going to use epoxy and glue the mouldings over the hinge and hope my problems will be solved.


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## CHJ (8 Sep 2013)

John, have you looked at the work done by *Ian*?

I believe he also supplies hardware for small boxes, you may find his (hidden) hinges easier to fit.


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## devonwoody (8 Sep 2013)

CHJ":1biauucj said:


> John, have you looked at the work done by *Ian*?
> 
> I believe he also supplies hardware for small boxes, you may find his (hidden) hinges easier to fit.



Thanks Chj. I know Ian does those nice hinges but eight of them would stretch the budget a bit. :wink:


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## CHJ (8 Sep 2013)

I thought that might be a problem after I posted but in the future they may well be viable if it avoids the petrol and time trying to find and match suitable items and screws.


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## Mr_P (8 Sep 2013)

If cheap hinges are a pain in the proverbial and expensive hinges are ermmm expensive why not abandon the metal hinge altogether ?

Ladies and gentlemen I am proud to present (drum roll please) The Pivot hinge (yes all hinges pivot).

http://www.finehardwoodboxes.com/box-ga ... oxes/226#4


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## marcros (8 Sep 2013)

Or a lipped lift off lid?


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## ColeyS1 (8 Sep 2013)

Nice project dw  ive always liked your tissue boxes and the jewellery box is a great idea - In the past when I've had problems getting the hinges in the right position ive just plugged the screw hole and tried again. Seeing all the different designs you come up with on your boxes, all the complicated angles and different wood combinations you use I reckon you should at least try the butts on one more box  - Im not a fan of the piano hinge, the rest looks superb !!! I'd be surprised if you don't get more requests once you start sharing them with your family. 

Edit : assuming the hinge holes are fairly accurate could you make up a small jig for drilling the pilot holes - something like this- 








The housings are easy enough to mark if you clamp the lid to the base. Im guessing it was the positioning of the hinge holes that was throwing the lid out ?
Sent from my GT-I9300


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## devonwoody (9 Sep 2013)

Eureka, eureka, eureka.

I have finally satisfied myself and got that hinge fitted reasonably well.

Thanks all above with those other solutions which did all have merits and are not discarded but may well be put into practice to later boxes. 

So pictures below might convey my solution, even the box lid stays upright and does not fall over the 90 degree angle. I might even decorate with some round head brass screws to ensure the additional timber remains in position.(epoxy glue used (£1 tubes from the pound shop)





















I do not possess a scroll saw and too late to get the skill perhaps as well, any scroll sawers out there who would like to make some bracket feet?


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2013)

Nearing the end.

Made some feet to keep the box off its base. Found this piece of African blackwood which is very dense and hard. Machined a rebate to hang off box.






It would not cut nicely on tablesaw to get the lengths or mitres so had to resort to hand work. Made a stop for length consistency and a white piece of wood with 45 degree format, this was screwed to sawbench and also worked as a pull lever and jammed the wood to make cutting quite easy.






glued in position to base.






Front view. (I think the lid will need another button and I shall use earth magnets to keep lid in closed position)


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## Baldhead (11 Sep 2013)

Looking good DW.

BH


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## Graham Orm (11 Sep 2013)

Looks good DW she'll treasure it I'm sure.


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## devonwoody (24 Sep 2013)

Some more knobs turned and made by Dave62m for my jewellery box projects.

These measure only 12mm across by 7mm deep. Fabulous, he must have a steady hand.


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## sm7 (30 Sep 2013)

Just a quick question, I haven't managed to read all the way through yet; How did you fit the bottom panel?


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## devonwoody (30 Sep 2013)

sm7":on54j4ak said:


> Just a quick question, I haven't managed to read all the way through yet; How did you fit the bottom panel?



carcass recessed and ply dropped in and glued, not expecting any expansion etc. (those black feet would hold the bottom in if there was any until it was repaired. )


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