# Which type of plastic do I need to support a router on?



## Tetsuaiga (17 Jul 2014)

I want to make a sled/large base for my router to sit on. 

What kind of plastic should I be looking for and also what thickness? I want something that will be as rigid as possible so it won't sag too much.

Thanks


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## Glynne (17 Jul 2014)

When you say sit on, are you talking about a base for normal routing or do you mean an insert plate for a router table?


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## Tetsuaiga (17 Jul 2014)

For it to sit on top of.

Also I didn't say I want it to be transparent. Is it realistic to be able to try putting a thread on the inside of the plastic with a metal tap? Not sure if plastic will be tough enough to withstand that, my router is the old small dewalt one, can't remember the model name exactly but its for 1/4 inch bits so pretty light.


Thanks


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## Noel (17 Jul 2014)

Tetsuaiga":2b8hmqwc said:


> For it to sit on top of.
> 
> Also I didn't say I want it to be transparent. Is it realistic to be able to try putting a thread on the inside of the plastic with a metal tap? Not sure if plastic will be tough enough to withstand that, my router is the old small dewalt one, can't remember the model name exactly but its for 1/4 inch bits so pretty light.
> 
> ...



You mean a bigger base? Not sure why you would want to thread it, just screw it on to the metal base of the router using the existing threaded holes. If no threads C/S machine screws and nuts. Polycarbonate or acrylic would suit, 4mm upwards.


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## Lons (17 Jul 2014)

How big is big?
Acrylic is stiffer than polycarbonate and doesn't scratch quite so easily but has less impact strength. Polycarb is formulated to flex which is one of the properties which gives it strength.

You can easily form a thread on either given sufficient thickness but I can't for the life of me think why you would want to.

Bob


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## Tetsuaiga (17 Jul 2014)

Oh yes actually you're right I don't need the thread on the plastic. Not sure what I was thinking then.

I think acrylic is what I need then. Thanks for the help.

I haven't worked out the size just yet, at a guess I think it probably will need to be 45cm long by 20cm. For quite a small job.


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## Tetsuaiga (18 Jul 2014)

Could anyone also tell me if I have to make sure I get cell cast acrylic or is any going to be okay?


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## Spindle (18 Jul 2014)

Hi

I think you need to be a bit more specific in how you intend to use the acrylic - a piece 450 x 200 x 4 mm will bend a lot if not supported. If I was looking for rigidity I'd be considering using 10mm material for that size of base.

Regards Mick


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## Tetsuaiga (18 Jul 2014)

I'll be routing out a piece that's 20cm wide, leaving around 1cm around the outer edges.


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## foxhunter (18 Jul 2014)

I assume that the finished article is something like a tray. Take care that the thicker the base you need leaves enough of the cutter to enable you to achieve the depth you want.


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## Tetsuaiga (18 Jul 2014)

Thanks. I've bought some 6mm acrylic to try.

Perhaps it's on the thicker side but i'll only be routing down about 2cm so it won't be a problem.


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## Paul Chapman (20 Jul 2014)

Why not get yourself the Trend "square" sub-base? I use one most of the time on my router. I find it significantly aids stability. It also takes guide bushes.





Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Tetsuaiga (20 Jul 2014)

Interesting, i've not seen that one before. 

I might take a look at the price, i've already ordered the plastic unfortunately but I do quite like the idea of being able to see through, though I know its not necessary.


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## Steve Maskery (27 Jul 2014)

If you are using acrylic, can I suggest that you counterbore for flat-head screws rather than countersink? Contersinking can cause a lot of localised pressure and is difficult to adjust if it is not spot-on. It's easy for it to fracture from the hole outwards. Counterboring does not have that effect. The problem is that, with only 6mm thickness, you would need screws with very shallow heads.
S


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## Tetsuaiga (1 Aug 2014)

Thanks for the suggestion Steve.

I only read this today and what you say makes sense. I already used the countersking method but so far it's all worked out okay.

I had quite a hard time cutting the acrylic with my jigsaw as that's all i had. It was internal cut so can't use bandsaw. The acyrlic melted but if i went back over the cut it threw out the old material and looks ugly but luckily that doesn't matter.


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## carlb40 (3 Aug 2014)

Tetsuaiga":1k263w7e said:


> Thanks for the suggestion Steve.
> 
> I only read this today and what you say makes sense. I already used the countersking method but so far it's all worked out okay.
> 
> I had quite a hard time cutting the acrylic with my jigsaw as that's all i had. It was internal cut so can't use bandsaw. The acyrlic melted but if i went back over the cut it threw out the old material and looks ugly but luckily that doesn't matter.


Sounds like you were cutting it at the wrong speed. Slower is better for plastics. Anyway you can sand the cut edge with various grits and even polish it if required.


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