# Turning a sink bowl



## LyNx (27 Feb 2006)

I would like to have a go myself but i think i'll leave this to someone who knows what to do.

I want a wooden sink for our bathroom and would like to know how much this will cost for someone to turn

I don't really know the maximum sizes here so i guess it down to your ability and lathe??

As for timber, not really sure yet but to make it easier i would supply the laminated bowl ready for turning.

Anyone interested??

Andy


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## La Truciolara (28 Feb 2006)

It very much depends on the size of the sink and the type of wood you would like it to be turned in.
Shape comes in the picture as well, as, if it is a simple circular sink it will cost you less than one carved in a rectangular shape that you would keep instead on mounting it on a holder.
Give us more specs please. :wink: 
Technically this does not present any problems.


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## Argee (28 Feb 2006)

I'd be happy to give it a try, although with any lamination, a lot depends upon the success of the glue-up. There will probably be a visible glue line, so the method of lamination needs thinking about too.

The downside is that I'm in East Sussex, but if you've got the time available, you could come down with the blank and I'll turn it while you're here. You need to also consider the plumbing fitting dimensions within your design.

Just off the top of my old head, the bottom requires to be thick enough to be screwed down onto its stand from beneath, whilst also being thin enough to take a plumbing fitting.

Drop me a PM if you're interested and can supply overall dimensions and wood type. My Hegner will turn large diameters, although it sounds like your blank would be quite a chunk!

Ray.


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## UKTony (28 Feb 2006)

Argee":3pqz8xzc said:


> The downside is that I'm in East Sussex, but if you've got the time available, you could come down with the blank and I'll turn it while you're here.



Ray

Dam that sort of offer would be worth replacing a sink for sure 8) 8)


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## jasonB (28 Feb 2006)

I think making the blank from 3-4 segmented horizontal layers will be better than flat or vertical laminations as it will reduce the amount of end grain and reduce the risk of the bowl going oval if it starts to shrink or swell. This would also reduce the amount of wood needed and save time hollowing it all out.

Most of the bowel type basins are held in place by an unslotted waste, the flange on the waste goes into the usual recess in the bowl and passes through the countertop all held together by the backnut on the waste. Should be egough space for a dovetail socket for easy chuck mounting.

The average bowl size is 400mm dia fo would need a lathe capable of swinging 16"x6"

Jason


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## LyNx (28 Feb 2006)

Thanks for the info people. I have taken Argee up on the offer and hopefully will be advised to what i can / can't do. 

Here is the sort of thing i was thinking. I know it will reduce time having it laminated but could you get a blank big enough for this. 

Turning in something i've never done but always been fascinated in and love watching 







Andy


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## jasonB (1 Mar 2006)

If were willing to rough turn it from green wood then wait for it to dry before finish turning then it could be done from a single piece but your choice would be limited to native hardwoods that could be sourced from a mill before planking. I have got oak off cuts this size in the past.

You are unlikely to find a piece of 6" thick x16" wide board that has been kiln dried.

Jason


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## LyNx (1 Mar 2006)

I'll ask around our suppliers to see if maybe a nice off-cut is laying around with my name on. If not then the laminated route.

Lets say i had the equipment and time. How long approx would it take someone to learn to turn a bowl this size?? A year, more, less.

Andy


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## Argee (1 Mar 2006)

Like any other skill, acquisition depends on so many variables, including aptitude, ability, amount of time avaiable for practice, supply of raw materials, need/desire to succeed, understanding of the principles involved, diagnosis of mistakes, satisfaction, support and instruction.

I wouldn't recommend that anyone start with a large piece, because of the forces involved, but turning itself is probably best picked up by watching, then trying whilst being watched. There are some good resources available, such as the late Keith Rowley's book and videotapes (not sure if they're on DVD yet). 

When I was at Ally Pally recently, I met dear old Bill (production turner and author) - whose three-point tool I've had for a while - but *seeing *him use his, coupled with his home-made arm rest made everything so much clearer than simply reading about it.

I was turning pieces I was pleased with after about three months - but as I was then newly-retired, I could practice pretty much when I felt like it. 

I'm sure other turners will comment, this is just my two quid's worth. 

Ray.


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## geoff_tulip (1 Mar 2006)

if you are looking for a large blank in one piece already dried - try your local woodturners - any that turn bowls for a living will have dozens if not hundreds of suitable blanks / half turned bowls already drying - there is sure to be one suitable for yuor needs. the wood will have a more natural feel and can include some interesting grain or features that lamination will not. it may be more expensive to buy but might be worth it visually.
if you cant find one let me know i'm sure i could help source one.
if you get your hands on one i'm suree argee would be glad to turn it for you.


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## LyNx (1 Mar 2006)

geoff_tulip":8eo7ingh said:


> it may be more expensive to buy but might be worth it visually.



Just wondering, what is the approx price of a blank this size. Is there any sites i can visit.

Andy


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## cd (1 Mar 2006)

LyNx":zgnj5i7p said:


> Just wondering, what is the approx price of a blank this size. Is there any sites i can visit.
> 
> Andy



You might try Stiles and Bates there website lists bowl blanks up to 12" X 6" (for some native timbers) but they cut there own so if you give them a call they could probably help you. I've used them a few times and there very helpful.

cd


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## geoff_tulip (1 Mar 2006)

i doubt if you will be able to get a blank from any supplier that is kiln dried in the sizes that you will need. they will be sold 'part seasoned'. i supply large blanks to big bowl turners 12" to 36" and they need to be roughed out to an even thickness and left to dry before finishing (or one of the many other mehtods used). 
if you talk to a local turner who produces large bowls i'm sure he will be able to show you a part turned bowl ready for finishing. the reason i say it might be more expensive is that the turner knows what he will get for the finished bowl after a few hours work and may not want to give away a piece for nothing.
the only thing with a one piece blank is that it will move - slightly maybe - but over time it will move - and you put alot of faith in the dryness of the timber, which may not be crucal in most cases but is in yours. 
i guess that since dryness is so crucial in this case the lamiantion route may be your least risky route. you could enhance / spoil (depending on your opinion) the look of the sink by using segmented turning - which can look spectacular.

good luck


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## mudman (1 Mar 2006)

Hmm, been wondering about the dryness of the blank. If the bowl is in regular use, then it's going to be getting pretty wet quite often. What will the average moisture content be?
Or will the finish provide an effective seal?

Was thinking that a bowl turned to an inch thick from green wood will take a year to dry out (less in a heated house?) But if in use, then that moisture content is never going to come down very far and you won't get much movement. If it does move, then fill the bowl with water and let it soak it up, that should restore the original shape.

Or... will you get a differential between the inside and outside that causes more problems?

And, if you do use a piece of wood that has been rough turned, allowed to dry out then finish turned. Then you start to fill it with water or place it in a steamy bathroom. Won't it move again with some interesting shapes resulting?

I reckon that if the bowl is turned from a seasoned blank, then you would need an absolutely waterproof finish. Alternatively, try turning it from a piece of green or partly-seasoned wood and use a finish that is water permeable - is there such a finish?

Just some musings.


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## paulm (2 Mar 2006)

Can't help but think that using one piece of timber will end in tears !  

To have any realistic chance of remaining stable I would think you need to laminate up some kiln dried stock and then seal very thoroughly afterwards, although not sure what would best serve this purpose.

You can get away with large one piece bowls moving a little after turning as they are generally only ornamental or for mixing salads etc but where you have to attach fittings and you have it in the sometimes steamy atmosphere of a bathroom I think it would be pretty inevitable that you would have problems.

I suspect the commercial ones are probably all laminatd from close grained, kiln dried hardwoods such as teak, and finished with a totally impearmeable lacquer or melamine, and I think this would be the only way to go.

Good luck !


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## mudman (2 Mar 2006)

Found these links:

here
and here

Seems like epoxy may be the way to go.

However I'm not convinced of the practicality of such a thing. It would look great but the usability would be limited unless very large. Simple hand washing and tooth brushing should be okay but I think that the shape could result in large amounts of water sloshing over the sides in use.


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## Taffy Turner (2 Mar 2006)

Andy, 

Rustins do a two part Plastic Coating which turners use for coating turned goblets and other drinking vessels which are actually going to be used for drinking out of, as opposed to being for ornamental purposes. 

I have no experience of it myself, but it has been highly recommended in the turning magazines in the past. 

The Rustins website is here http://www.rustins.co.uk

I can't link to the exact page as the website seems to be Java based, but click on Interior Finishes, and then Plastic Coating. 

Axminster stock it if you are interested http://www.axminster.co.uk/name/Rus...uct-Rustins-Rustins-Plastic-Coating-23018.htm

FWIW I would go with kiln dried laminated wood if you are going to coat it with this stuff. I would be too concerned about green or part seasoned wood moving or even splitting on a piece as large as a wash bowl. 

Regards 

Gary

Edited to get the hyperlinks to work properly.


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## geoff_tulip (2 Mar 2006)

check out the following link they make wooden baths etc

http://www.driftwood.ie/


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## Argee (2 Mar 2006)

Taffy Turner":4ubb8w9j said:


> Andy,
> 
> Rustins do a two part Plastic Coating .............


Bizarre co-incidence - I've just recommended the same product in another post! 

Ray.


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## Wanlock Dod (2 Mar 2006)

Andy,

Epoxy has already ben mentioned (certainly my favourite for bodging stuff), but have you considered covering the finished bowl with a layer of fine fibreglass cloth in epoxy. As I understand it it's used on surfboards and boats and is clear when it's done (provided it's only a thin covering). It might provide better protection than a coating alone, although I can imagine laying up the glass on a bowl shape being mighty tricky, apparently it's quite easy on a flat surface but to coat a bowl it might need to be a bit like orange peel (i.e. lots of smallish strips and it might not be invisible on the overlaps).

Just a thought,

Dod


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## LyNx (6 Mar 2006)

Thanks for all the info people. I'll have to get my thinking cap on. 

I have been in contact with a hew suppliers and havew been told you won't get a blank big enough and the laminated route is the ideal solution.

I have looked at the fibreglass finish as i have been making a filter for my pond with this stuff. I don't even think you would need the matting, just the resin.


Andy


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## Taffy Turner (6 Mar 2006)

LyNx":18gbuojw said:


> I have looked at the fibreglass finish as i have been making a filter for my pond with this stuff. I don't even think you would need the matting, just the resin.



Andy,

Funny you should mention that. I was thinking about this over the weekend, and I came to exactly the same conclusion. 8) 

Regards

Gary


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