# My homemade router table



## weirdbeardmt (15 Nov 2020)

I'm not entirely sure in what order to present this, or indeed what the point of this thread is, other than a bit of show and tell.

Today, I started building a router table. This was on the back of a random but enduring conversation with MikeK which started with me asking about the Triton style workcentre, and then we meanderingly arrived at what I should do. I have spent more time over the last few months trying to improve what I do in my workshop (2/3rds a single garage... see later) and was in a position where I had decided that I again wanted a router table and a table saw. But space being an absolute premium meant the decision wasn't simple. 

Huge respect and gratitude to MikeK for having the patience to keep engaged with my witterings and sharing his experience.

This is on the back of a decision a few years prior, where I had bought every imaginable tool with entirely no idea how to use them. I had thought I need a proper big cabinet saw, and all manner of other machinery. So I had been through a process of evicting all these things I'd bought on a promise that I would only bring them back in when I was ready to spend the time to learn how to use them properly and so on. (I have the usual busy life, mortgage, kids, dog scenario... this is a hobby / lifestyle thing for me.) So having built some things over lockdown and whatnot that I was actually pleased with, I felt comfortable to go tool shopping. (Hardly a chore...) 

But then hit the issue that a lot of places are out of stock on stuff. After a bit of back and forth, including one cancelled order, I arrived at a position of the Bosch table saw and to build my own router table, with UKJ hardware, a Bosch palm router and an offcut of kitchen worktop I've had kicking about for a few years. The thinking being that this will be more than sufficient for the timebeing, and the hardware could be reused in the future if and when the router table tops / cabinets etc. are back in stock. (In preference to the original idea of one of those inexpensive all-in-one-router-table jobs which look convenient and ideal for my sort of space but fear they must be lacking... somewhere.)

So today I started.... it took a while to figure out how the UKJ fence hangs together, but in the end arrived at something that looks like it should work.







At the moment it is just a stand and the fence hardware attached.






As you can see it is built to match what else I've done, and can be used as outfeed for the mitre saw:






I haven't worked out where the table saw is going... it was originally going to share the router table, but... anyway. That's a problem for another day. As you can see, my workshop / garage / dumping ground serves many purposes.






So the idea was the use the plunge base on the Palm router thinking this would serve as a height adjust. I really don't like the normal base you get with this router.






Next thing is to attach the router, and this is where I need some thoughts and advice. The idea is to use one of the bases and attach it beneath, and not at the moment put in a proper plate and lift. My fear is I'm not sure how well I'll be able to attach it to the top in terms of being strong enough... any thoughts on this? 

Thanks  And please go easy.


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## Terrytpot (15 Nov 2020)

In the absence of funds when I last threw up an improvised RT I found (for the lack of accuracy I needed) it was a fairly simple process to fabricate a larger in diameter base in ,what would have ideally been a nice substantial chunk of aluminium plate but owing to the scarcity of the originally mentioned funds ended up being some 9mm mdf, using the original base as a template and then attaching that to the base of the router and then inverting all of that into the slightly smaller 9mm deep hole I routed into the chunk of kitchen worktop I'd rescued from a skip


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## matkinitice (15 Nov 2020)

I'm going through the same router table dilemma myself, with very similar hardware.

1) I've actually purchased the Bosch in the past two weeks. It's brilliant, but as a palm router as the name suggests. It's handled everything I've thrown at it but handheld, for edge work and the like. I'm not sure if mounting it in the plunge base is even safe - I don't have that with my kit so I can't comment but my other router states you disable the plunge functionality if table mounting for example.

2) Your table is really thick, so it's nice and stable but it introduces a problem with the depth of your router bit. You can get collet extensions for this exact reason but from my research this is the reason why table inserts exist. Instead of a simple hole you cut out the whole insert, with a small rebate. The beauty here is you loose very little depth and have a safe, stable mounting point. I'd avoid the cheapo inserts as they sag from what I know - the UJK one is the one I'm going for. They offer a universal base which will fit any router. The pain here is the cost, but for the safety and the fact I can use guide bush adapters means I'm more than happy enough to take the hit here.

3) Router lifts are horribly expensive, though very cool. I went the other way a year back and purchased a router knowing it had the ability to be table mounted without a lift. I went for the mid size Triton. It includes above table adjustment so no need for a lift. For the cost of 1 lift you can buy two Tritons for example. The router itself is great, there's a reason it's seen in many Youtubers' videos it's that good. Decently priced, powerful and no lift needed.

4) Dust collection - UJK offer a box you can house your router in under the table. This is something I plan on building - it's rather expensive for what it is. An afternoon in the workshop and you can build this. This is where a custom build pays off.

5) 'Rona has messed up the supply lines so a few of the items I'm suggesting may be low/out of stock so setup alerts or keep a look out. For example, Axminster are low in stock or out completely but even Amazon has limited range on inserts. Just gotta deal with this.

In summary I'm table mounting the Triton, with the universal UJK insert. I'll have to drill a hole here for the adjustment wand but this is easy enough to do - most inserts require some form of drilling unless you buy a pre-drilled insert, e.g. Kreg offer a Triton one. I'm going add the UJK fence you have, with some T-Track for featherboards and similar.

I'm a software engineer by trade and one of the things we do is the concept of a MVP or minimal viable product. I'm taking a similar approach to yourself in the sense that my first table will be a simple hole in a table top. Later I'll add the insert. Followed by track, fence and so on. This way I can actually spread the cost and do some woodworking in between - to keep the wife happy, rather than yet another workshop project. Overall this will come in far cheaper than the full UJK or similar setup, plus it will be a custom table like yours - so the height, depth and storage will be perfect.

I'd avoid any pre-built tables, the benchtop ones seem cheap and you're bound to outgrow it based on your pics. If I was you, I'd go with an insert with universal base. You can switch the router out then for something with more power and the ability to use 1/2 inch bits which is where I'm heading.

The final piece of advice I'd share is don't be too swayed by Youtube or others. The videos tend to be two ends of the spectrum, either stupidly simple or all singing and dancing tables. The beauty of a custom table is you can build what suits your needs and has some room for growth. At the same time it's worth standing on the shoulders of giants - there's a reason why inserts, lifts and so on exist. Trying to rebuild them isn't worth it in my opinion, not when dealing with such a dangerous tool.

Hope that helps - out of interest how is the fence? Does it feel stable after fitting? It certainly looks nice with your actual table.


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## billw (15 Nov 2020)

Navigating the world of router tables is a rabbit hole indeed. Good advice above though! I have to admit I keep looking at router lifts and then just look at the price, and think that the Triton routers might be a better solution.


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## sometimewoodworker (16 Nov 2020)

The one purchase item for a router table is a mounting plate. Yes you can do a hole in a top but the stiffness of the plate makes life much easier.

The fence and top can be cheap. A splittable fence is nice but not essential.

If money is not difficult you can shorten the time and buy a table, though I’ve not found any reason to upgrade my home made one.

One point is make all your bases mobile even if the wheels aren’t a permanent fixture. I started that when I had a very small space now that I have 90 square metres I still find it fantastically useful


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## weirdbeardmt (16 Nov 2020)

Many thanks for the replies and tips. In reverse order...



sometimewoodworker said:


> The one purchase item for a router table is a mounting plate. Yes you can do a hole in a top but the stiffness of the plate makes life much easier.
> 
> The fence and top can be cheap. A splittable fence is nice but not essential.
> 
> If money is not difficult you can shorten the time and buy a table, though I’ve not found any reason to upgrade my home made one.



Thanks, have spent yet more time pontificating and despite there being some really cheap plates available on Amazon I have ordered the UKJ alloy plate with universal base. Seemed to make sense to go this route given that if my kitchen worktop doesn't work out / warps etc., then I would most likely replace with a UKJ worktop (if they ever come back in to stock.) They do have the laminate type available... but at the moment £160 is a bit OTT until I've at least given this plan a proper go.



> One point is make all your bases mobile even if the wheels aren’t a permanent fixture. I started that when I had a very small space now that I have 90 square metres I still find it fantastically useful



Thanks, and yeah, have given this some thought. That laminate wood flooring in my garage is actually super slidey so dragging things around isn't too bad. I have some castors on the shelf if needed to help. I also looked at those foot-operated lift-y things and they look good... might incorporate for whatever I end up doing with the table saw.



billw said:


> Navigating the world of router tables is a rabbit hole indeed. Good advice above though! I have to admit I keep looking at router lifts and then just look at the price, and think that the Triton routers might be a better solution.



I have wasted SO much time thinking about this and getting hung up on lifts and this, that and the other! It's a minefield... I want something that's good (enough) but isn't completely OTT - yeah, the lifts are nuts. I've been looking at the kits on WWW and some of them are amazing; but I just can't justify the cost.



mAtKINItice said:


> I'm going through the same router table dilemma myself, with very similar hardware.
> 
> 1) I've actually purchased the Bosch in the past two weeks. It's brilliant, but as a palm router as the name suggests. It's handled everything I've thrown at it but handheld, for edge work and the like.



We can endure this together then; I have wasted a lot of time going back and forth over what is the best option. I'm pretty happy with the current plan... although I have been thinking more about whether the palm router is a good choice for the table. (I've also bought the smaller 12v shaper...) but I do have the FSN rail kit, and adaptor, so there is definitely an argument for keeping the GKF600 out of the table... and



> I'm not sure if mounting it in the plunge base is even safe - I don't have that with my kit so I can't comment but my other router states you disable the plunge functionality if table mounting for example.



The funny thing is; when I bought it originally, it came as a great big kit. The plunge base has sat on the shelf ever since and I have struggled with the palm router and the standard base, which quite frankly I hate. But the plunge base is really nice to use. So I'm going back a couple of steps now!



> 2) Your table is really thick, so it's nice and stable but it introduces a problem with the depth of your router bit. You can get collet extensions for this exact reason but from my research this is the reason why table inserts exist. Instead of a simple hole you cut out the whole insert, with a small rebate. The beauty here is you loose very little depth and have a safe, stable mounting point. I'd avoid the cheapo inserts as they sag from what I know - the UJK one is the one I'm going for. They offer a universal base which will fit any router. The pain here is the cost, but for the safety and the fact I can use guide bush adapters means I'm more than happy enough to take the hit here.



I am so happy to read this... I have literally just ordered the UKJ one with the universal base. £100 or so, but if I ever replace the top then it will likely be with a UKJ phenolic or similar so made sense! I think this will get around the thickness of my worktop... I did buy some long-shank router bits too a while back.



> 3) Router lifts are horribly expensive, though very cool.



Agreed! Rutlands have an electronic one which is absolutely nuts. No idea if it's any good, but from a gadget point of view... but anyway, I was looking at the UKJ lift and for £300 I just couldn't bring myself to do it!



> I went the other way a year back and purchased a router knowing it had the ability to be table mounted without a lift. I went for the mid size Triton. It includes above table adjustment so no need for a lift. For the cost of 1 lift you can buy two Tritons for example. The router itself is great, there's a reason it's seen in many Youtubers' videos it's that good. Decently priced, powerful and no lift needed.



This advice is pure gold! Is it the TRA001 you're referring to? I have probably wasted the most time over how to adjust the height (given how much I hate the adjustment on the Bosch); so this could definitely be the route (pun partially intended) for me.



> 4) Dust collection - UJK offer a box you can house your router in under the table. This is something I plan on building - it's rather expensive for what it is. An afternoon in the workshop and you can build this. This is where a custom build pays off.



Thanks; dust collection in general is something I need to revisit. I built the classic shop vac / cyclone thing which works great but now with the mitre saw, router table and table saw, will have three ish fixed things that could do with a better setup.



> 5) 'Rona has messed up the supply lines so a few of the items I'm suggesting may be low/out of stock so setup alerts or keep a look out. For example, Axminster are low in stock or out completely but even Amazon has limited range on inserts. Just gotta deal with this.



Yeah, I've definitely been guided by this but also been fortunate so far. If I can get the table top working OK then I'm hoping that will suffice until the stock levels improve. My location makes it bloody awkward to get big / heavy stuff delivered which is why Axminster (and Amazon) are great. There's not much of a secondhand market and most stuff you could get on eBay the sellers won't ship because it's a hassle and expensive.



> In summary I'm table mounting the Triton, with the universal UJK insert. I'll have to drill a hole here for the adjustment wand but this is easy enough to do - most inserts require some form of drilling unless you buy a pre-drilled insert, e.g. Kreg offer a Triton one. I'm going add the UJK fence you have, with some T-Track for featherboards and similar.



Cool. Will be good to compare!



> I'm a software engineer by trade



Freaky... snap.



> and one of the things we do is the concept of a MVP or minimal viable product. I'm taking a similar approach to yourself in the sense that my first table will be a simple hole in a table top. Later I'll add the insert. Followed by track, fence and so on. This way I can actually spread the cost and do some woodworking in between - to keep the wife happy, rather than yet another workshop project. Overall this will come in far cheaper than the full UJK or similar setup, plus it will be a custom table like yours - so the height, depth and storage will be perfect.



Um, same... ish. I guess I need to work on the M bit!



> I'd avoid any pre-built tables, the benchtop ones seem cheap and you're bound to outgrow it based on your pics. If I was you, I'd go with an insert with universal base. You can switch the router out then for something with more power and the ability to use 1/2 inch bits which is where I'm heading.
> 
> The final piece of advice I'd share is don't be too swayed by Youtube or others. The videos tend to be two ends of the spectrum, either stupidly simple or all singing and dancing tables. The beauty of a custom table is you can build what suits your needs and has some room for growth. At the same time it's worth standing on the shoulders of giants - there's a reason why inserts, lifts and so on exist. Trying to rebuild them isn't worth it in my opinion, not when dealing with such a dangerous tool.



The one I got rid of from before was called an XACT from Rutlands. It was fine and the motor was strong but were a bunch of annoyings about it that meant it wasn't quite right for me. 75% of the motivation for doing this is to actually have a usable router table as I have some moulding things I want to do; but the remaining 25% is wanting to actually take time and build it myself and have some of the satisfaction in it. I don't mind paying for decent stuff, and I think the ancillaries (fence/track/plate/etc.) count - but £250-odd for some laminate top and mild steel base - I know I can do better.



> Hope that helps - out of interest how is the fence? Does it feel stable after fitting? It certainly looks nice with your actual table.



Honestly, thanks; you've really helped. If I can find the right Triton then you could have just saved me any more procrastination misery! 

In terms of the UKJ stuff; it all feels really nice. The split fence is super smooth. The extrusion for the fence structure is big and solid. Took me a while to figure out how to attach the rails (had to cut a few times to get the correct width, but fortunately went cautious so it was always trimming down...)

The build of it will appeal to your software mind; each piece's role is encapsulated nicely which buys you some wiggle room - i.e., you attach the "sub-"rails to the base of the worktop; then the side rails are attached to that and can adjust up and down, and then finally you attach the fence to it. A really nice touch is that the measures on the side are (a) metal and (b) sliding; so you should be able to really dial it in when you've got everything laid out.

I didn't finish adjusting the fence properly yet, the top isn't attached because I knew I'd have to do more to it, but I think when it's all adjusted it should be really nice!


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## Beanwood (16 Nov 2020)

I dithered over a router lift for ages.
I didn't want to invest in another router (Well, I did want to, but coudn't justify it).
Couldn't find a Router Raizer for less than a lot of money.
I ended up spending £9.00 on this: 4 × 4" -Lift Lifting Platforms Stand Rack Scissor Stainless Max Load 5 KG 715538097070 | eBay
I'd probably spend extra money if doing it again, and go for the 6" version - but this is just incredible "bang for your buck." It has transformed my table to be adjustable at such little cost it's ridiculous. Yes, it may not be the most pecise, and there are still the problems of changing the cutter, but I could overcome that with a muscle chuck or similar when I get some spare cash. (Note to self - Christmas is coming - drop hints to wife...)

My advice - Try something - then improve on it if you need to.


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## matkinitice (16 Nov 2020)

@weirdbeardmt it was the Triton MOF001. Seems expensive on Amazon, but Screwfix have it at a resonable price. I didn't think I need the extra power that the TRA001 has, but they are the same otherwise. Both include the above table adjustment - can't comment on the smaller one.


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## billw (16 Nov 2020)

mAtKINItice said:


> @weirdbeardmt it was the Triton MOF001. Seems expensive on Amazon, but Screwfix have it at a resonable price. I didn't think I need the extra power that the TRA001 has, but they are the same otherwise. Both include the above table adjustment - can't comment on the smaller one.



I too suspect the additional power of the TRA001 would just go to waste, and whilst the larger one seems to have more depth control options, I'm not sure how valuable these are if it's perpetually bolted under a table as surely the MOF001 and TRA001 share the same mechanism for changing depth from above the table anyway?


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## matkinitice (16 Nov 2020)

That's my understanding, the power is the difference. The adjuster is the same. You may have to purchase a 1/2 inch collet in addition depending on where you get it from.

The MOF is a beast enough when I've used it as a plunge router - so I'm happy enough.


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## weirdbeardmt (16 Nov 2020)

Thanks. Have not tried Screwfix so not sure if they deliver here. As a slight aside, assume you've seen the camels... https://uk.camelcamelcamel.com/product/B00779NCPM - pretty handy for trying to assess if something on Amazon is a good price.


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## weirdbeardmt (16 Nov 2020)

Holy moly, £100 for the GKF600 at Screwfix is easily the cheapest I've seen it anywhere. Shame they don't deliver here.


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## matkinitice (16 Nov 2020)

That's the one I got a few weeks back. Bare in mind though it's not your full kit - so I don't have the dust extraction and something else? There's a big gap in the case. I forget what it is. I was tempted to buy the dust extraction but then realized it is over £50 so have shelved that for now.

I've got the fence, the bearing attachment and that's it other than the router and standard base. Still it's a great palm router - though the case is driving me mad. I've been spoilt by sustainers.


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## weirdbeardmt (16 Nov 2020)

I picked mine up locally... the independent hardware shop here gets the Bosch rep over from time to time and they do pretty good deals.... I got all sorts of extras as part of a package deal.


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## Sandyn (16 Nov 2020)

billw said:


> I too suspect the additional power of the TRA001 would just go to waste, and whilst the larger one seems to have more depth control options, I'm not sure how valuable these are if it's perpetually bolted under a table as surely the MOF001 and TRA001 share the same mechanism for changing depth from above the table anyway?


The MOF001 is a 1/4" and the TRA001 is a 1/2". I wanted the 1/2" because I was creating some big mouldings also I got a set of 1/2" bits for next to nothing and only had an ancient ELU router.
I made my own router table out of old chipboard and some really thick MDF from an old repurposed TV cabinet, The table works very well. I threw it together as a prototype, but it works so well, I haven't bother to modify it. I also made my own feather boards and push blocks. I had to do a bit of tuning to get the table flat. The fence is mounted on T slot rails, but that's the only rails I fitted, so far that's all I have needed. I just clamp the feather boards with G clamps. The one mistake I made was to make the gap in the fence slightly wider than it needs to be, so it gives more chance of the wood catching as it passes.

The Triton rise/fall is brilliant. That was the feature that made the decision for me. Thes rise and fall mechanisms are silly money. The rise/fall is so easy to use, but don't expect precision from the adjustment, there is quite a bit of backlash. I use a digital depth gauge. I use an old Aquavac for dust collection. The hose fitted the Triton, but I didn't realise at first it was a left hand screw, so that kept me confused for a while. The combination of the vac and triton is horrendously noisy, but I don't mind. It reminds me it's still running. The soft start on the Triton is more a delayed start. There is still a big kick when it starts up. The router is permanently fitted in the table. I did try it freehand, before I mounted it the table. but it's just too big for me. I prefer the control of pushing the wood past the router. I buy my router bits from Yonico, which is Precision Bits in the US (great company to deal with). I get them through Amazon. They are very cheap and very good quality. They are not the same quality as some of the 'better' brands, but they are a fraction of the cost and so far, have worked very well. I'm not a heavy router user. One improvement I did make to the table was to varnish all the surfaces, rub them down then give them a good wax polish. That makes a huge difference to how the wood moves on the table.


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## spb (17 Nov 2020)

Sandyn said:


> The MOF001 is a 1/4" and the TRA001 is a 1/2".


Both routers can take both sizes of bits. My MOF001 came with 1/4" and 8mm collets in the box, but the same replacement collets fit the TRA001, MOF001 and JOF001, so you just need £15 or so extra for a 1/2" collet.


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## weirdbeardmt (17 Nov 2020)

Have ordered the TRA001 from Amazon even if overkill. Couldn't find any of them anywhere else for a decent price that would ship to me. Slight fear that it drops in price on Black Friday but hey ho.


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## MikeK (17 Nov 2020)

weirdbeardmt said:


> Have ordered the TRA001 from Amazon even if overkill. Couldn't find any of them anywhere else for a decent price that would ship to me. Slight fear that it drops in price on Black Friday but hey ho.



As long as you keep the bottom of your router table open, and can easily reach under the top to access the router, this will work. There are some nice features of the TRA001 that I like when using it as a hand-held router that make it difficult when using it in a router table. The most annoying feature is having to manually turn off the power switch in order to change a cutter. This is not a problem when it's not in a table, but if access under a table is limited, then fiddling with the power switch can be a pain.

You will have to remove the plunge return spring from the router when using it upside down in a table since gravity will be performing the function of the spring. There are several good instruction guides that explain how to do this. If I can find it, I will post it here. I do remember, it was easy to do.


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## Astrobits (17 Nov 2020)

I have had a TRA001 in my router table for the past 13 years and it is still going strong. It is an older design that doesn't have the through-table height adjustment unfortunately.
I also have the JOF001 for hand work and our Men's Shed had the MOF001 in their table. 
As you have now ordered the TRA 001 I will not dwell on the different features of the smaller router ( only a variation of the plunge control). However, all three have the capacity to use the following collets: 6mm, 1/4", 8mm, 12mm and 1/2" ( you can try Triton Power Tools for these and many other Triton bits. -- BTW I have no connection to this company). 
You can also forget about making a dust box as the routers have a permanent shroud fitted which will take the normal spiral hose connection--it just screws into the dust shroud.
A word of caution, when fitting it to the table you need to remove the plunge spring. The instructions show how to do this but don't mention ( at least mine did not) that you need to keep a firm hand on the cap when loosening the retaining screw and removing the cap as it can behave as a veritable jack-in-the-box and your cap and spring will go all over the shop if you let it.
I have other Triton products and have found the agents very helpful when needed with repairs and spare parts. Again I have no connection with them other than being a happy customer of theirs.
Nigel


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## Astrobits (17 Nov 2020)

I do not understand why some people have a problem reaching under the worktop to operate the router switch. There have been some comments regarding removing the safety cover when mounting Triton routers in a table so that the switch can be left on while allowing the spindle to lock for changing bits. Removing safety features is a very risky business. You still need to get to the router plunge lock lever or you are relying on the worm/wheel lift mechanism not allowing the router to drop under the vibration thus changing your profile. If your particular router does not have a through table lift you have to do even more functions under the table. The speed control is under there as well.
Surely everyone can grope in the dark? ( I have no problems ) 
Nigel


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## ander11 (17 Nov 2020)

MikeK said:


> As long as you keep the bottom of your router table open, and can easily reach under the top to access the router, this will work. There are some nice features of the TRA001 that I like when using it as a hand-held router that make it difficult when using it in a router table. The most annoying feature is having to manually turn off the power switch in order to change a cutter. This is not a problem when it's not in a table, but if access under a table is limited, then fiddling with the power switch can be a pain.
> 
> You will have to remove the plunge return spring from the router when using it upside down in a table since gravity will be performing the function of the spring. There are several good instruction guides that explain how to do this. If I can find it, I will post it here. I do remember, it was easy to do.


I would put a door on it with clear laminate for easy access with a magnetic catch


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## weirdbeardmt (22 Nov 2020)

Have received some bits but unfortunately not had any time to do anything with them. First view on this UKJ plate is that it's seriously chunky.


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## MikeK (22 Nov 2020)

weirdbeardmt said:


> Have received some bits but unfortunately not had any time to do anything with them. First view on this UKJ plate is that it's seriously chunky.



That is a nice sturdy plate. Are you sure the TRA001 will attach to the UJK router plate? I didn't see any Triton routers listed in the compatibility chart. Assuming the mounting plate will work, or you can have one made, are you going to drill the hole for the adjustment tool?


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## weirdbeardmt (23 Nov 2020)

I should really have checked the compatibility chart beforehand... as I made the same discovery; but as yet not married up the Triton to the plate... I really hope it does fit easily. And yes, if it will go in then I will have to drill for the adjustment tool.


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## billw (23 Nov 2020)

The UJK universal sub-base takes the TRA001.


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## weirdbeardmt (23 Nov 2020)

Having never done this before, does anyone have any tips / approach to routing out the hole for the insert? 

Axminster don't have a jig or guide for it and obviously I want it to fit snugly in the top. Have seen manufacturers provide templates... but that looks like a lot of cash for a bit of MDF...






Create Perfect-Fitting Openings for Router Table Insert Plates | Infinity Cutting Tools Blog







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Router MDF Insert Plate Template


Making your own table? Want an easy way to make a perfect cutout for one of a Woodpecker router plates or router lift? Here's the answer. With this template and a template router bit (one with a bearing on the shank), anyone can rout out a perfectly sized 9-1/4 x 11-3/4 opening. CNC machined...




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Routing Template For 9-1/4" X 11-3/4" Insert Cut Out


MDF Template for routing the insert cutout hole in a custom table for your Rout-R-Plate™, Rout-R-Lift II™ or your Mast-R-Lift II™. Made of 3/4" thick MDF and designed to be used with a 1/2" straight router bit and a 3/4" template guide bushing. WARNING - Cancer and reproductive harm. For more...




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And is a template router bit another way of saying flush trim bit? 

I was assuming a normal straight bit in a guide bush on a template ought to do it (assuming I make a template and/or possibly 3d print one.)

Is there a guide or standard to how much 'shelf' (rebate I guess?) should be left for the plate to sit on? Or just 'as much as possible' ? The ones like this seem to leave quite a narrow ledge... UJK Professional Laminated Router Table Top... but maybe that's just to accommodate all sized routers?


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## weirdbeardmt (23 Nov 2020)

weirdbeardmt said:


> I should really have checked the compatibility chart beforehand... as I made the same discovery; but as yet not married up the Triton to the plate... I really hope it does fit easily. And yes, if it will go in then I will have to drill for the adjustment tool.



Turns out Triton TRA001 is on the compatibility list, but for the base... UJK Universal Sub-Base... for the manual for the plate itself it's not listed. Maybe it hasn't been updated.


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## Sandyn (23 Nov 2020)

I found it a bit irritating that Triton don't include a template for the holes. There is a drawings in the user manual, but it doesn't dimension the winder hole. How difficult would it have been to simply include a paper template and fully dimension the manual. I complained, and got this reply:-
"""
I am really sorry but we do not have access to these dimensions as we purchase the TRA001 from a manufacturer and this type of information is not something we can access.
I do apologies for not being able to be of more assistance on this occasion and hope you are able to proceed with your project.
"""
What a lot of B.S.! 
so I ended up making my own template drawing, but haven't verified it yet.


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## Bigbadmarky (23 Nov 2020)

I've recently been tinkering with my 'router table'. I say router table in " as its more of a bodge built to a really low budget. 
I'm using the Triton JOF001 1/2" router (£135 from Screwfix) with a cheap and cheerful insert plate from eBay (I think it cost about £20 from China). The JOF is the lower powered option but still takes the 1/2" bits and includes the lifting mechanism which can be adjusted from above. Its the lower power option of the three in the range but has more than enough ummph for the job I need it for. I have spent the weekend routing tenons in beech and didn't miss a beat!
I have bodged a short power extension socket with an NVR switch to cut power rather than reaching underneath. That way I can set up the router and switch it on and off as needed from the side of the table. PLEASE NOTE: DON'T PLAY WITH ELECTRICS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR ARE DOING!

I fitted my make shift fence over the weekend. I bought some T track from eBay and bodged a fence from some reclaimed 18mm MDF. I might run an extra piece of T track in the fence for feather boards etc but I'm not sure yet. I might also put a sacrificial face to the fence for smaller jobs. 

Next I'm thinking about dust extraction. I think I'll run a flexible hose from the back of the fence and from the dust outlet on the router. That should cover all bases. 

Cheers, 
Mark


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## billw (23 Nov 2020)

Well despite saying you bodged the whole thing it looks perfectly functional and that's the main thing!


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## Peter Sefton (23 Nov 2020)

weirdbeardmt said:


> Having never done this before, does anyone have any tips / approach to routing out the hole for the insert?
> 
> Axminster don't have a jig or guide for it and obviously I want it to fit snugly in the top. Have seen manufacturers provide templates... but that looks like a lot of cash for a bit of MDF...
> 
> ...



It looks like the templates you have linked to are all the standard American size, designed for Incra, JessEm, Woodpeckers this is the same size as the one we have. It looks like Infinity have a very similar insert pad to our Stainless Steel version, these are good for MDF table tops as they stop the leveling screws eating into the MDF core over time through vibration. 

The UJK lift is an unusual size and I don't believe these templates will help you.

Cheers Peter


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## eezageeza (23 Nov 2020)

Sandyn said:


> I found it a bit irritating that Triton don't include a template for the holes. There is a drawings in the user manual, but it doesn't dimension the winder hole. How difficult would it have been to simply include a paper template and fully dimension the manual. I complained, and got this reply:-
> """
> I am really sorry but we do not have access to these dimensions as we purchase the TRA001 from a manufacturer and this type of information is not something we can access.
> I do apologies for not being able to be of more assistance on this occasion and hope you are able to proceed with your project.
> ...


I have my TRA001 mounted on a third party plate, and had to drill holes for the screws and adjusting rod.
From memory I think the trick was to remove the plastic plate from the base of the router, and use that as a template.


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## Spectric (23 Nov 2020)

MikeK said:


> As long as you keep the bottom of your router table open, and can easily reach under the top to access the router, this will work. There are some nice features of the TRA001 that I like when using it as a hand-held router that make it difficult when using it in a router table. The most annoying feature is having to manually turn off the power switch in order to change a cutter. This is not a problem when it's not in a table, but if access under a table is limited, then fiddling with the power switch can be a pain.


That power switch was the first thing that had to go, it is not safe unless you have easily access to another power switch or have wired in a proper E stop. It is a pain to access and once table mounted not needed. Originally it prevents the power being on with the router fully raised for a bit change, personally I always ensure the power is OFF at source and before turning the router back on I make sure the bit is free to turn. To remove the spring there is a single screw holding a black cap in place, remove screw, rotate cap slightly and spring is out. Remove that plastic base completely as it gives that little extra lift.


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## Sandyn (23 Nov 2020)

eezageeza said:


> I have my TRA001 mounted on a third party plate, and had to drill holes for the screws and adjusting rod.
> From memory I think the trick was to remove the plastic plate from the base of the router, and use that as a template.


I think that's the way to do it. I used the plastic base to draw up the template. Some day I will get an aluminium plate and drill it myself. You can also use the large base plate which comes with the router, but it's a bit thin and awkward to incorporate into the table.


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## weirdbeardmt (24 Nov 2020)

Bigbadmarky said:


> I fitted my make shift fence over the weekend. I bought some T track from eBay and bodged a fence from some reclaimed 18mm MDF. I might run an extra piece of T track in the fence for feather boards etc but I'm not sure yet. I might also put a sacrificial face to the fence for smaller jobs.



I would be more than happy with your "bodging" skills!



Peter Sefton said:


> It looks like the templates you have linked to are all the standard American size, designed for Incra, JessEm, Woodpeckers this is the same size as the one we have. It looks like Infinity have a very similar insert pad to our Stainless Steel version, these are good for MDF table tops as they stop the leveling screws eating into the MDF core over time through vibration.



Thanks Peter, indeed I was referring them as examples of others I'd found but not any that matched the UKJ. It's looking like I'll have to make my own. I am curious about the SS insert... the internals of the worktop I'm using I guess is reconstituted chipboard type, which could easily suffer the same problem you describe. I'll see if anyone over here could machine one for me.


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## Paul M (24 Nov 2020)

weirdbeardmt said:


> Having never done this before, does anyone have any tips / approach to routing out the hole for the insert?
> 
> Axminster don't have a jig or guide for it and obviously I want it to fit snugly in the top. Have seen manufacturers provide templates... but that looks like a lot of cash for a bit of MDF...
> 
> ...


I placed my insert on the table and put18mm MDF around the plate, using double sided tape. Got a guided flush trim cutter from Wealdon, removed the insert plate then routed to depth (my insert is trend and they provided instructions). You will need to put a 18mm mdf block onto router base plate to prevent router from tipping, I then used jigsaw to cut inside hole. Chris Tribe has a video showing how he fitted a UJK insert to worktop. Photo shows my home built featherboards placed onto table (wrong direction). Took about 2 days to build and cost less than £100. Hope this helps


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## pcb1962 (24 Nov 2020)

Astrobits said:


> There have been some comments regarding removing the safety cover when mounting Triton routers in a table so that the switch can be left on while allowing the spindle to lock for changing bits. Removing safety features is a very risky business.


I don't think the switch interlock is actually a safety feature, rather it protects the machine from damage due to being powered up whilst the spindle is locked. I don't know what would happen if you did that and I'm not going to try it to see, I suspect the motor would just hum loudly and maybe blow a fuse, but modifying the machine to remove the interlock does not allow the cutter to rotate whilst the spindle is in the bit changing position and so doesn't really affect safety.


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## weirdbeardmt (24 Nov 2020)

Paul M said:


> I placed my insert on the table and put18mm MDF around the plate, using double sided tape. Got a guided flush trim cutter from Wealdon, removed the insert plate then routed to depth (my insert is trend and they provided instructions). You will need to put a 18mm mdf block onto router base plate to prevent router from tipping, I then used jigsaw to cut inside hole. Chris Tribe has a video showing how he fitted a UJK insert to worktop. Photo shows my home built featherboards placed onto table (wrong direction). Took about 2 days to build and cost less than £100. Hope this helps



Thanks, that video is ideal and having watched it now understand what is meant by surrounding the plate etc. as opposed to having a template.

I need to check my router bits; by my reckoning (and by holding up a forstner bit I have) the radius of the corner on the UKJ insert is 15mm so his tip to use a bit the same size to get the corner is very simple. Not sure if I have a big enough bit to rout all the way through; but I do have a jigsaw.


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## mikej460 (24 Nov 2020)

Paul M said:


> I placed my insert on the table and put18mm MDF around the plate, using double sided tape. Got a guided flush trim cutter from Wealdon, removed the insert plate then routed to depth (my insert is trend and they provided instructions). You will need to put a 18mm mdf block onto router base plate to prevent router from tipping, I then used jigsaw to cut inside hole. Chris Tribe has a video showing how he fitted a UJK insert to worktop. Photo shows my home built featherboards placed onto table (wrong direction). Took about 2 days to build and cost less than £100. Hope this helps


Hi Paul, could you reply with a link to the cutter you bought please?
thanks
Mike


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## MikeK (24 Nov 2020)

weirdbeardmt said:


> Thanks, that video is ideal and having watched it now understand what is meant by surrounding the plate etc. as opposed to having a template.
> 
> I need to check my router bits; by my reckoning (and by holding up a forstner bit I have) the radius of the corner on the UKJ insert is 15mm so his tip to use a bit the same size to get the corner is very simple. Not sure if I have a big enough bit to rout all the way through; but I do have a jigsaw.



I wouldn't bother using the router to cut through the table. Focus on a wide lip for the router plate to rest and use the jig saw to remove everything else, after you are done with the router. In use, the sawn edge of the hole will never be seen and all that matters is nothing obstructs the router after you attach it to the plate and lower the assembly into the table.


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## Trainee neophyte (25 Nov 2020)

For anyone struggling with power, switches in the wrong place, etc, I have have a universal nvr switch like this:






W026 NVR Switch fro use with router table







www.charnwood.net





You plug the extension lead in one end, and the router (or any other electrical device) in the other, and you get nvr controlled power wherever you want it. My router table, which is just a plywood sheet with a hole, has full nvr safety, despite having gaffer tape on the power button to keep it on permanently! You could diy it with a standalone nvr switch connected to a socket for £10, or Charnwood want £25 for their offering - probably cheaper direct from China, but I just found the first example.


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## Paul M (25 Nov 2020)

weirdbeardmt said:


> Thanks, that video is ideal and having watched it now understand what is meant by surrounding the plate etc. as opposed to having a template.
> 
> I need to check my router bits; by my reckoning (and by holding up a forstner bit I have) the radius of the corner on the UKJ insert is 15mm so his tip to use a bit the same size to get the corner is very simple. Not sure if I have a big enough bit to rout all the way through; but I do have a jigsaw.


I have attached the UJK Manual/Drawing for the UJK custom table. This is from the Axminster website tech specs. A 12.7mm template trimmer (Wealdon Part T8027B - £14.35 or buy from Axminster £23 )will be sufficient, the inside of the aperture can be removed using a jigsaw (easier and more cost effective). The inside radius can be mitred corners to better support the plate. The trend RTI/A plate comes with instructions and magnets to allow for levelling etc. you could look at that guide, which will give useful info. Going forward you might want to consider buying Bill Hylton Book, Woodworking with the Router. This is a good reference guide or you could consider doing a one day training course. Hope this helps


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## Paul M (25 Nov 2020)

mikej460 said:


> Hi Paul, could you reply with a link to the cutter you bought please?
> thanks
> Mike


Hi Mike
Template Trim (wealdentool.com) The Part number is T8027B, please note it is 12.7mm on 1/4 shank. Cost is £14.15


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## weirdbeardmt (25 Nov 2020)

Paul M said:


> I have attached the UJK Manual/Drawing for the UJK custom table. This is from the Axminster website tech specs. A 12.7mm template trimmer (Wealdon Part T8027B - £14.35 or buy from Axminster £23 )will be sufficient,



Brilliant, you have just answered the question I was about to ask next. The only flush trim bit with a bearing I have is a 1/2" / 12.7mm bit so that should do the job!



> the inside of the aperture can be removed using a jigsaw (easier and more cost effective). The inside radius can be mitred corners to better support the plate. The trend RTI/A plate comes with instructions and magnets to allow for levelling etc. you could look at that guide, which will give useful info. Going forward you might want to consider buying Bill Hylton Book, Woodworking with the Router. This is a good reference guide or you could consider doing a one day training course. Hope this helps



Thanks. I must admit this exploration in to how to do this (before actually cutting anything) has led me on a path of wanting to do things better... that Chris Tribe video for instance, I drifted on to some of his other videos and, wow, I have a lot to learn. Bit limited where I am in terms of courses, but thanks for the book tip, will hunt it out.


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## Paul M (25 Nov 2020)

Paul M said:


> I have attached the UJK Manual/Drawing for the UJK custom table. This is from the Axminster website tech specs. A 12.7mm template trimmer (Wealdon Part T8027B - £14.35 or buy from Axminster £23 )will be sufficient, the inside of the aperture can be removed using a jigsaw (easier and more cost effective). The inside radius can be mitred corners to better support the plate. The trend RTI/A plate comes with instructions and magnets to allow for levelling etc. you could look at that guide, which will give useful info. Going forward you might want to consider buying Bill Hylton Book, Woodworking with the Router. This is a good reference guide or you could consider doing a one day training course. Hope this helps


Hi also attached Trend config to help understand better


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## Astrobits (25 Nov 2020)

pcb1962 said:


> I don't think the switch interlock is actually a safety feature, rather it protects the machine from damage due to being powered up whilst the spindle is locked. I don't know what would happen if you did that and I'm not going to try it to see, I suspect the motor would just hum loudly and maybe blow a fuse, but modifying the machine to remove the interlock does not allow the cutter to rotate whilst the spindle is in the bit changing position and so doesn't really affect safety.


Actually it is a safety feature. Safety for both the operator and the router. The spindle lock is progressive as the router is raised and it is possible to have the shaft apparently locked when it is only just engaged. I had a problem with my first TRA001 ( an older design than current models) where the spindle locking rod was slightly undersized and the spindle lock failed when trying to change bits. I still have that router going strong with a modified locking rod.
Nigel


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## pcb1962 (25 Nov 2020)

Astrobits said:


> Actually it is a safety feature. Safety for both the operator and the router. The spindle lock is progressive as the router is raised and it is possible to have the shaft apparently locked when it is only just engaged. I had a problem with my first TRA001 ( an older design than current models) where the spindle locking rod was slightly undersized and the spindle lock failed when trying to change bits. I still have that router going strong with a modified locking rod.
> Nigel


It's clearly not a 'necessary' safety feature as none of my other 5 routers have any interlock to prevent you operating the power switch whilst changing bits.


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## weirdbeardmt (25 Nov 2020)

FYI, the UKJ base and mixture of other routing bits are currently on 15% off flash sale at Axminster.. now until 10pm. Bleeding typical.









UJK 10mm Aluminium Router Table Insert c/w Universal Base


This 10mm aluminium insert plate measures 229 x 306mm and is designed to fit the UJK cast iron, phenolic or MDF router table tops. This option is unusual in that it features a circular universal base attached to the underside of the plate with four...




www.axminstertools.com


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## weirdbeardmt (25 Nov 2020)

Went earlier to set up the cut and do a dry run, check to see if I understood what was going on and what was needed. Looking at it and wondering how it’s ever going to work. Realise the bit I have has the bearing at the bottom and obviously not designed for this purpose. (Fortunately I already ordered the Wealdoj bit so hopefully that will get me a step closer...)


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## weirdbeardmt (28 Nov 2020)

Found a few moments in between chores and children’s parties and usual stuff.

Have assembled the guide for the router. It’s stuck down with double sided tape.

Didn’t have thick enough mdf so had to give the router some legs and put the inner guide in. Will cut out the main hole with jigsaw after routing. 

Did a test cut on some spare and the bit I got from Wealdon cut beautifully; sharp edge with no masking tape.

With a bit of luck will get to do some more tomorrow.


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## billw (28 Nov 2020)

I thought you only needed one supporting piece as some of the router rests on the outside?


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## weirdbeardmt (28 Nov 2020)

Yeah exactly, I’ve already noticed a slight mistake which is that jacking up the router means the bearing has nothing to roll against!  So have removed one of the legs and then will cobble together something that actually works to raise the side of the template if that makes any sense. Hopefully will work!


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## MikeK (28 Nov 2020)

Since you will be cutting the center section out, you can use countersunk screws to hold the center support in place...unless you want to use the center section for something later.

Why did you attach the rails to the router? With the correct bearing cutter, the first layer of MDF is all you need for the routing template.


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## weirdbeardmt (28 Nov 2020)

MikeK said:


> Since you will be cutting the center section out, you can use countersunk screws to hold the center support in place...unless you want to use the center section for something later.



True...!



> Why did you attach the rails to the router? With the correct bearing cutter, the first layer of MDF is all you need for the routing template.



Because the depth of the MDF is approximately the depth of the plate and also the depth of the router bit which I only have this one. So I need to double the height of the MDF so that the bearing has something to roll against. I have just about enough MDF left to put a strip on top... but as I've since realised two rails on the router is wrong.... I *think* I have it setup now.


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## Paul M (29 Nov 2020)

weirdbeardmt said:


> True...!
> 
> 
> 
> Because the depth of the MDF is approximately the depth of the plate and also the depth of the router bit which I only have this one. So I need to double the height of the MDF so that the bearing has something to roll against. I have just about enough MDF left to put a strip on top... but as I've since realised two rails on the router is wrong.... I *think* I have it setup now.


Start the plunge cut in the waste cut out middle area at minimum depth to allow the cutter bearing to run on template. Whilst cutting bring the router to the template (cutting) The bearing will then run along the template and you can do a first pass and then increase depth.
You only need one support for the router on the waste section. Remember to cut in the correct direction


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## weirdbeardmt (29 Nov 2020)

Made some progress. One little nick where it got away from me. Use a multitool to cut out the middle.


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## MikeK (29 Nov 2020)

weirdbeardmt said:


> One little nick where it got away from me.



Tis but a flesh wound. 

This looks good. I have a suggestion before you get too far along, and I forgot to mention it earlier. There are six adjusting points to level the plate to the table, three along each of the long edges. These should be threaded holes for grub screws. The adjustment grub screw makes contact with the table and provides the support for the router plate.

I recommend finding suitable small metal disks and plunge cut a small depression centered on each of the adjustment holes to fit the disks. I used 1-cent Euro coins in a table I helped a friend build because they were less expensive than any other suitable substitute we could find. The disk (coin) will spread the point load of the grub screw to a larger area and won't eventually eat into the table material. A year on, and his table is still working fine with a Triton TRA001 hanging under it.


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## Peter Sefton (29 Nov 2020)

MikeK said:


> Tis but a flesh wound.
> 
> This looks good. I have a suggestion before you get too far along, and I forgot to mention it earlier. There are six adjusting points to level the plate to the table, three along each of the long edges. These should be threaded holes for grub screws. The adjustment grub screw makes contact with the table and provides the support for the router plate.
> 
> I recommend finding suitable small metal disks and plunge cut a small depression centered on each of the adjustment holes to fit the disks. I used 1-cent Euro coins in a table I helped a friend build because they were less expensive than any other suitable substitute we could find. The disk (coin) will spread the point load of the grub screw to a larger area and won't eventually eat into the table material. A year on, and his table is still working fine with a Triton TRA001 hanging under it.



I have this made for us for that very reason, the grub screws do end up eating into MDF or chipboard in my experience.


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## weirdbeardmt (29 Nov 2020)

Thanks Mike. I did enquire with a local fabricator about having something like that plate in the infinity tools kit made up.. but tbh your way sounds easier!


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## Paul M (30 Nov 2020)

weirdbeardmt said:


> Thanks Mike. I did enquire with a local fabricator about having something like that plate in the infinity tools kit made up.. but tbh your way sounds easier!


Why not buy magnets something like this would work


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## MikeK (30 Nov 2020)

Paul M said:


> Why not buy magnets something like this would work



My experience with these magnets is they are very brittle and it doesn't take much force on the surface to shatter them. In the case of the router mounting plate, the ring or coins are to protect the wood from the force exerted by the grub screws used to level the plate. Gravity holds the router plate and router in place, and depending on the design of the plate, additional countersunk screws or a side cam screw are used to secure the plate to the table.

In practice, the bottom of the plate does not touch the router table. The lip cut in the table top should be deeper than the thickness of the table. This allows room to raise the plate and level it to the table top.


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## weirdbeardmt (4 Dec 2020)

After a fair bit of head scratching and a little bit of fettling to the table top, the router is attached and test fitted in. 

Left to do is mark and cut the hole for the lifter handle, rout and insert something beneath the levelling grub screws, attach the plate fully to the top and then finally, hopefully, attach the top to the base.


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## weirdbeardmt (5 Dec 2020)

Well I'm calling v1 of this table done. It's in and have done a first test cut with new 'Cavetto' bit from Wealdon. I put some threaded inserts in to the table top so the insert is attached, and put some smaller metal washers beneath the grub screws so hopefully that will hold up.

I have not yet drilled out the hole for the lifter as I decided to try it by hand for now before potentially making a mess of the insert plate. If I decide I need it I will look at drilling it or possibly fabricate / 3d print an angle bracket / adaptor so the lifter comes out of the front.

I had ordered an NVR a while ago but actually the position of the power switch on the router makes it pretty easy to activate... so will see about installing that if it ever arrives. Have also got a T-track and miter gauge to go on at some point; but keen to just experiment with it for a while and see what I end needing.

Must say the noise the motor on the Triton makes is very pleasing. It's like a happy whirr... admittedly I've got it on the lowest speed at the moment.

I'm working through the Bill Hylton book now... I have so much to learn about this. 

Thanks all very much for the input along the way! Hopefully this thread will prove useful to others in the future.


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## billw (5 Dec 2020)

Really useful thread this, thanks for posting.


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## Farm Labourer (5 Dec 2020)

To support the grub screws on my 40mm Formica worktop, I just taped 4 lengths of 1.5mm thick aluminium strips to the formica. They were offcuts found under the guillotine.


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## Raymien (24 Apr 2021)

Hi, this thread is really useful as I’m embarking on building a table to mount my Triton MOF.

Quick question, I was planning on laminating two 18mm MRMDF pieces together for the top. I’m struggling to find a suitable ‘melamine’ or ‘phenolic laminate’ material to then fit onto these, providing me that low friction surface. 
Any advice please on where I can source some? I’m hoping for a white top similar to the UJK one, but self built.


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## sometimewoodworker (29 Apr 2021)

Raymien said:


> Hi, this thread is really useful as I’m embarking on building a table to mount my Triton MOF.
> 
> Quick question, I was planning on laminating two 18mm MRMDF pieces together for the top. I’m struggling to find a suitable ‘melamine’ or ‘phenolic laminate’ material to then fit onto these, providing me that low friction surface.
> Any advice please on where I can source some? I’m hoping for a white top similar to the UJK one, but self built.


Any shop that sells kitchen worktop laminate will have that in stock


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