# Struggling



## Garno (15 Dec 2020)

Hi,
Last week I purchased this from Ebay for £125 (best offer) paying cash for it axminster wood lathe | eBay It included 6 chisels and some other stuff.

I have turned the thing on the right hand side around to the correct way and noticed some very light surface rust, the plate covering the belts on the pully at the bottom was on back to front, well it looked back to front as the only way I could get the screw holes to line up was to turn it around, the more I look at it the less confident I feel that it is actually an Axminster lathe, I can't find a single axminster logo on it anywhere.

But that is not where I am struggling as it does seem to be a nice lathe to my untrained eye, my problem is that I just cannot seem to move the chuck, let alone take it off, that is on there. Do I need to get something like this? Axminster Woodturning Chuck Removal Spanner ? my problem is I feel that the chances are that it is a generic chuck and it may not fit it. my chuck looks similar to this one (although it only has 2 numbers on the top) 4" WOOD LATHE CHUCK 4 JAW SELF-CENTERING WOOD TURNING TOOLS 1'' 8TPI/ M33 THREAD | eBay I have spent the last 3 hours trying to right everything and have given up for today. Whit's end and all that


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## marcros (15 Dec 2020)

Can you take some pics of what you have changed and what you are struggling with.


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## marcros (15 Dec 2020)

Your tailstock in the eBay pic is on backwards. It is an Axminster lathe, even if not logo'd. The chuck looks ok to me. No idea what brand but it looks much better than the cheap rubbish. It may well be the one in your link. Are you saying that the headstock doesn't rotate with the chuck or that it does and you can't remove the chuck from the thread. If the whole lot doesn't rotate, is the belt on the correct pulley- is if it is on the far left on the top, it should be on the far left on the bottom. Sometimes there is something stopping it rotating- probably a locking pin into the chuck itself or into the headstock but looking at the instructions it doesn't appear so on yours. 

If it all rotates and you are struggling to remove it might just be a bit tight. A gator grip to hold the silver wheel and a long piece of wood cross ways in the chuck may give you some leverage to jolt it. A bit of penetrating oil may help too.


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## Deadeye (15 Dec 2020)

Garno said:


> Hi,
> Last week I purchased this from Ebay for £125 (best offer) paying cash for it axminster wood lathe | eBay It included 6 chisels and some other stuff.
> 
> I have turned the thing on the right hand side around to the correct way and noticed some very light surface rust, the plate covering the belts on the pully at the bottom was on back to front, well it looked back to front as the only way I could get the screw holes to line up was to turn it around, the more I look at it the less confident I feel that it is actually an Axminster lathe, I can't find a single axminster logo on it anywhere.
> ...



Looks like a bargain.
Once you have loosened the chuck per instructions above, make a plastic washer from a milk carton. Stops it sticking again.


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## Garno (15 Dec 2020)

marcros said:


> Your tailstock in the eBay pic is on backwards. It is an Axminster large, even if not logo'd. The chuck looks ok to me. No idea what brand but it looks much better than the cheap rubbish. There must be something stopping it rotating- probably a locking pin into the chuck itself or into the headstock.



I've turned the tailstock the right way round as I'd noticed it on wrong yesterday ** cough..... thanks Phil ** I'm in bed now so will take some photo's tomorrow and post them here, I am so relieved it is an axminster thanks for your posts.


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## marcros (15 Dec 2020)

Don't worry too much about it. We will help you sort it!


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## Hornbeam (15 Dec 2020)

Most axminster lathes are 1inch by 8 tpi thread so the chuck will fit
The chuck will be a standard RH thread so turn over the top towards you to loosen.
I dont know whether the lathe has a spindle locking pin or you need a tommy bar or spanner to hold teh headstock while you unscrew the chuck
Good luck and enjoy


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## Robbo3 (15 Dec 2020)

You got a bargain if it works. The chuck & 3 chisels are worth that on their own.
The three chisels look to be HSS (High Speed Steel) & are a diamond parting tool, a round nose scraper & an oval skew.
If the chuck uses a hex key then it's either a Record SC4 or equivalent. I have one similar & it's my 'go to' chuck.


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## Garno (15 Dec 2020)

Robbo3 said:


> You got a bargain if it works. The chuck & 3 chisels are worth that on their own.
> The three chisels look to be HSS (High Speed Steel) & are a diamond parting tool, a round nose scraper & an oval skew.
> If the chuck uses a hex key then it's either a Record SC4 or equivalent. I have one similar & it's my 'go to' chuck.



I got 6 chisels in total and they all have HSS on them and they are all different, I will post images tomorrow as it will save me having to make another post asking what they all are , when I was looking at the chuck earlier on it did all look like hex key attachments.


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## Lons (15 Dec 2020)

As already said you got yourself a bargain. 
Don't worry too much the chuck will come off with a bit of effort. A word of warning though, if it's stuck and won't revolve then whatever you do don't switch it on or you risk damaging the belt or perhaps even the motor. As Marcros said, there may well be a locking pin, both my lathes have that and it locks the spindle solid, check on the end and front, it's usually sprung which you push in and then twist to lock.


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## mindthatwhatouch (15 Dec 2020)

Others have already answered your initial question.
This maybe of help going forwards?
https://cdn.axminstertools.com/media/downloads/105118_manual.pdf

If its not the right lathe I believe all their manuals are available online. 

Bargain, enjoy and from one beginner to another, don't worry about the rather steep learning curve.


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## Lazurus (15 Dec 2020)

What a great package to start your journey into the dark art of shaving making - you need to get a sharpening system as a priority as the chisels will need to be kept sharp regularly to make leaning less problematic - consider a simple bench grinder with a sutable jig - it will save you hours learning to sharpen free hand. There are loads of options and opinions of how to and what to use, I favour a bench grinder with white or CBN wheels and a Sorby 447 jig - fairly cheap second hand and easy to set up and use. Best of luck going forward.


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## Garno (15 Dec 2020)

The Lathe itself does run and it is very quiet, with no vibration that I can see, the bug bear is the chuck seems to not want to let go. It has grabbed hold of the lathe and refuses to be taken off it I will post some close up pics of the chuck tomorrow.

Gary


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## Garno (15 Dec 2020)

mindthatwhatouch said:


> Others have already answered your initial question.
> This maybe of help going forwards?
> https://cdn.axminstertools.com/media/downloads/105118_manual.pdf
> 
> ...



Other than the colouring that is the lathe, mine is missing the tailstock wheel handle, I don't think that is anything to worry about though.
Thank you for the link.
Gary


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## Phil Pascoe (15 Dec 2020)

Sorry, I didn't read that properly.


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## Paul Hannaby (16 Dec 2020)

To remove the chuck, open the jaws far enough to insert a large screwdriver or pry bar to act as a lever, lock the spindle and give the lever a clout in the anti-clockwise direction with a big hammer.


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## Robbo3 (16 Dec 2020)

Nice manual even though it's for a newer model than yours. It should help you understand where things go & the correct terminology.
The manual doesn't mention a spindle lock but some pictures look as if there are flats for a spanner to stop the spindle rotating or if no flats there may be a hole for a tommy bar. Somehow you will need to prevent the spindle rotating so that you can put a batten across the face of the chuck & smack it with a mallet to break the grip & free the chuck.
It loosens anti-clockwise looking from the tailstock.
Once you have the chuck off, clean the threads & make a washer as posted earlier.
The morse taper in the headstock & tailstock as well as the morse taper fittings eg drive centre & rotating (live) centre should always be used clean & dry.


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## HamsterJam (16 Dec 2020)

Paul Hannaby said:


> To remove the chuck, open the jaws far enough to insert a large screwdriver or pry bar to act as a lever, lock the spindle and give the lever a clout in the anti-clockwise direction with a big hammer.



Just be careful....
If the chuck is really stuck you might shear the spindle lock when attempting to free the chuck, especially if you ‘shock’ it with a mallet or have a large lever in the chuck jaws.
If you are going to apply a lot of force, it might be better to hold the spindle still using another method like a spanner/C-spanner or a strap wrench.


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## alex_heney (16 Dec 2020)

Not sure why others are telling you it is an Axminster lathe.

It appears to be this one








[Hot Item] 10X18" Mini Wood Lathe 370W (MC1018)


Type: Vertical Lathe Voltage: 220V Automatic Grade: Manual Precision: Precision Setting Mode: Table Controlling Mode: Artificial



burtgroup.en.made-in-china.com





Which may of course be the underlying model that Axminster buy and rebrand, but technically it isn't Axminster unless they have their branding on it.


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## Sheptonphil (16 Dec 2020)

HamsterJam said:


> Just be careful....
> If the chuck is really stuck you might shear the spindle lock when attempting to free the chuck, especially if you ‘shock’ it with a mallet or have a large lever in the chuck jaws.
> If you are going to apply a lot of force, it might be better to hold the spindle still using another method like a spanner/C-spanner or a strap wrench.


I believe this is the best advice for Chuck removal. Removing a snapped lock pin will be no fun. Where the pully is mounted to the shaft, there will probably be a pair of flats, use the biggest, lumpiest, spanner or adjustable you bad fit on it, then use the wood through the chuck jaws locked in place horizontally back to front. A smart whack with a decent hammer should break the grip. Worst case the wood should snap before damaging anything.
also agree, absolute bargain at that price, the chisel set is worth that money.


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## marcros (16 Dec 2020)

I don't think that there is a spindle lock. No ref on the manual to one and no sign where it would likely be on the pics.


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## Garno (16 Dec 2020)

Managed to get the chuck off, Clamped a strong, large, spanner in and gave it a light tap with a rubber mallet and that did the trick. It surprised me just how light a tap was needed. 
Thank you everyone for your help. Here are the photo's as promised but sadly they have in turn produced even more questions.






Thread after removing chuck.






This is the plate I had to turn around as the holding screws did not line up with it the other way around. The ridges you can see fit perfectly into the hole where the bottom of the pullies are but as I say the holes just do not line up when like that.







Light rusting and alternate thread view, note it is inside something that is round I do have a reason for mentioning that 






Chuck and next to it something that can screw into it also the mini chrome rod to the left of it fits into holes (Holes do no go all the way through)






Markings on the above thing that can screw into the chuck, the end my thumb is stuck into can screw onto the thread shown in images 1 and 3






The remaining markings. This was not on the machine as the chuck was screwed onto the thread (in 1 and 3) directly.






The chuck, it's a lot heavier that I expected. 






I was hoping to capture the individual numbers 1 - 4 on each block but failed 






Rear of chuck, all of the holes are numbered, Do any of you know why and is it something that will come in handy in the future?






Side view


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## J-G (16 Dec 2020)

The numbers. holes and side indents (detents) are for indexing. That is so that you can set up a means by which a 'peg' can locate in either a hole or detent which will aid in marking - or even cutting - lines or grooves along the length of a piece of spindle work or radial ines etc. on face work.

The item marked KP96-E is an insert to convert the mounting from the native 1" x 8 to 3/4" X 16 which you will only need if you have another lathe with the smaller thread.


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## Garno (16 Dec 2020)

Only allowed to post 10 images per reply







The 6 chisels that came with it






I do not know what type they are






Again not sure what they are






They all feel heavy and well made but that is coming from a complete novice.






Again a different angle






Tailstock (I think that's what it is called) I have put that pointed thing in.






End part, note the handle is missing, not sure how this effects anything.






Another pic of the thread






I am assuming this is the face plate






Front or back of faceplate?

My main question is if I screw pic number 5 (1st set of pics onto the chuck it then only manages to screw about half of the depth of the thread on the left hand side thread is this OK or does the chuck need to be screwed all the way on the thread of the machine?


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## Phil Pascoe (16 Dec 2020)

It's an excert - it allows you to use a chuck or faceplate with a different thread. If you wind the jaws out to clean the chuck up a bit, you will find each jaw is numbered - these have to be replaced in the co responding slides in the chuck, which are also numbered. It's good to find out how it fits - you'll wind one or two out sooner or later anyway. When the jaw carriers are out, you will see the spiral that locates them - wind this around until the end appears in No.1 slide, then back it off slightly and insert No.1 jaw. Then turn it on a quarter of a turn and repeat for jaw 2. Repeat for the other two. It sounds more complicated than it is. A dry PTFE spray is good for lubricating the spiral and slides as it doesn't attract dust.


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## Garno (16 Dec 2020)

J-G said:


> The numbers. holes and side indents (detents) are for indexing. That is so that you can set up a means by which a 'peg' can locate in either a hole or detent which will aid in marking - or even cutting - lines or grooves along the length of a piece of spindle work or radial ines etc. on face work.
> 
> The item marked KP96-E is an insert to convert the mounting from the native 1" x 8 to 3/4" X 16 which you will only need if you have another lathe with the smaller thread.



Thank you that has answered my main concern.

Gary


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## marcros (16 Dec 2020)

Let's take some of the easier questions. The back of the chuck is numbered so you can use an indexing system. Don't worry about it for now, it is a feature that you aren't using. 

The cover that you repositioned looks right but I leave mine open. I presume that you also has a top cover and that also stays open on mine. 

The chuck seems to have come with an adaptor to thread onto a different sized lathe. Does the church fit the screw directly or need the adaptor?


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## Garno (16 Dec 2020)

Phil Pascoe said:


> It's an excert - it allows you to use a chuck or faceplate with a different thread. If you wind the jaws out to clean the chuck up a bit, you will find each jaw is numbered - these have to be replaced in the co responding slides in the chuck, which are also numbered. It's good to find out how it fits - you'll wind one or two out sooner or later anyway. When the jaw carriers are out, you will see the spiral that locates them - wind this around until the end appears in No.1 slide, then back it off slightly and insert No.1 jaw. Then turn it on a quarter of a turn and repeat for jaw 2. Repeat for the other two. It sounds more complicated than it is. A dry PTFE spray is good for lubricating the spiral and slides as it doesn't attract dust.



I was going to get some WD40 spray or some penetrating oil spray, I will look for your recommendation instead.


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## Garno (16 Dec 2020)

marcros said:


> Let's take some of the easier questions. The back of the chuck is numbered so you can use an indexing system. Don't worry about it for now, it is a feature that you aren't using.
> 
> The cover that you repositioned looks right but I leave mine open. I presume that you also has a top cover and that also stays open on mine.
> 
> The chuck seems to have come with an adaptor to thread onto a different sized lathe. Does the church fit the screw directly or need the adaptor?



Yes I have a top cover that seems to be ok


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## marcros (16 Dec 2020)

When you get going, you will want to change speeds, and these covers need opening every time. That is why I leave mine open. 

You will have 5 speeds or so. You start slow and build up, then for sanding may slow down a bit, so it can be a bit of a nuisance openings and closing them. 

In the tailstock, you have put the live centre (live means it spins with the work). The missing handle isn't a big thing. If you end up drilling on the lathe (eg for pens you might want to make or buy a replacement.

Faceplate is correct term. You screw your blank to the flat side, then the other side screws onto the lathe. 

Do you have any other centres, probably a pointy bit with a sharp cross on it?


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## marcros (16 Dec 2020)

Tools, from the left

Oval skew (slanty one)
Parting tool (pointy)
Round nose scraper
Bowl gouge
Spindle roughing gouge *
Spindle gouge **

*Only ever use it on spindles never bowls
**For now don't consider using it on anything other than spindles. 

On the bench below you have a knockout bar which you use to remove any tapered fittings (eg drive centre) in the headstock. This is the long bar with the handle.


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## Garno (16 Dec 2020)

marcros said:


> When you get going, you will want to change speeds, and these covers need opening every time. That is why I leave mine open.
> 
> You will have 5 speeds or so. You start slow and build up, then for sanding may slow down a bit, so it can be a bit of a nuisance openings and closing them.
> 
> ...



Is this what you mean? it's under the handle of the banjo


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## Garno (16 Dec 2020)

The shed looks this untidy as I'm still making cupboards and such like, hope to finish by February


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## marcros (16 Dec 2020)

That's it, this is your drive centre. It will make more sense when you get your book!


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## Sheptonphil (17 Dec 2020)

Your chisel set is identical to the set of six I bought when I started seven or eight years ago. today they retail at about £150 the set. They are a really decent starter set, I still use all of them as my go to chisels, especially the skew, it takes a razor edge, and large as it is, I make all my pens with it.

Take your time understanding the purpose of every bit of the kit you’ve acquired. See if you can get an experienced turner round to yours when we’re allowed to show you through the basics at least. Meanwhile you’ve an opportunity to strip stuff apart and clean and lubricate everything. Just use the proper lubricants. You don’t want contaminants getting on wood you intend to clear finish or glue up. 

Keep asking the questions, supported by your excellent pictures. You will not be ridiculed for asking because you don’t know.


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## Paul Hannaby (17 Dec 2020)

I think the "spindle lock" on these lathes is a hole in the collar just behind the chuck register into which you insert a 1/4" rod and can brace against the toolrest if it's put in the right place. There's not much chance of something getting stuck in there. using wood between the jaws doesn't really give any advantage over a steel bar and would need something much thicker which means the jaws need to be opened further.


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## OldWood (17 Dec 2020)

I wonder if from your mention of slight rusting, there is rust now between the back face of the chuck and the bush on the spindle - a very effective 'glue', and I am assuming why the plastic washer is recommended. I'm not sure what is on the market now, having given up dismantling old cars many years ago, but I wonder if one the anti-rust products might be worth dribbling into that area and leaving it for a day or two, before assaulting it. Also my gut feeling is to define the 'decent' hammer as a large mallet, rather than a club or joiner's hammer. 
I remember dismantling a Reliant Scimitar front suspension long, long ago and fighting all weekend on one side - fortnight later haviing dowsed the other side in something and driven the car around, it fell apart beautifully and was all done in a morning.
Rob


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## mindthatwhatouch (17 Dec 2020)

Can I suggest that you google beginner wood turning projects, or something similar. watch a few videos from recognised, experienced turners and get turning, use some cheap, scrap softwood to practice initially.
Use the roughing gouge and spindle gouge to start, turn between centres and get a feel for making some basic shapes and use of these tools.
It’ll show you how to use the lathe and a couple of tools, from there you can decide what to make.
Don’t forget the PPE. And enjoy.

contact the local woodturners club to see if someone could give you a bit of help over zoom?


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## gmercer_48083 (17 Dec 2020)

Garno, This is what you need to hold the shaft from rotating while you smack the chuck counter clockwise (looking from the tailstock)Axminster Woodturning Chuck Removal Spanner There is a hole (no flats) on the shaft. With the spanner installed in the pin hole of the shaft... rotate it so the handle of the spanner is against the casting, open the jaws of the chuck and place a board crossways (as a Lever) then clamp the jaws onto your lever and smack it.


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## Sheptonphil (17 Dec 2020)

gmercer_48083 said:


> Garno, This is what you need to hold the shaft from rotating while you smack the chuck counter clockwise (looking from the tailstock)Axminster Woodturning Chuck Removal Spanner There is a hole (no flats) on the shaft. With the spanner installed in the pin hole of the shaft... rotate it so the handle of the spanner is against the casting, open the jaws of the chuck and place a board crossways (as a Lever) then clamp the jaws onto your lever and smack it.


That spanner is what goes onto the Chuck, not to lock the spindle. 

with that, you engage spindle lock (assuming you have one) or put spanner on spindle flats. Put the pin of that tool into the Chuck key hole and give the handle a sharp tap.


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## Nelly111s (17 Dec 2020)

This lathe looks the same as the Jet 1014. Has the lathe got a small turned knob on the back of the headstock that is sprung loaded to help it remain out? It's also threaded to push in an locate into holes inside the headstock and provide a spindle lock. The tailstock / drive centre looks identical to the Jet 1014 (I have 8 of them).


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## Garno (17 Dec 2020)

Nelly111s said:


> This lathe looks the same as the Jet 1014. Has the lathe got a small turned knob on the back of the headstock that is sprung loaded to help it remain out? It's also threaded to push in an locate into holes inside the headstock and provide a spindle lock. The tailstock / drive centre looks identical to the Jet 1014 (I have 8 of them).



I will have to have a look tomorrow, I am going to give it a good clean and put some PTFE dry on it.


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