# Painting a plywood desk



## Russell_AH (25 Sep 2016)

Hi all, I'm looking for advice on painting a plywood desk I'm planning. It will be painted black. 

From reading around the internet, it seems that i should go for an oil-based primer, what would you recommend? I saw another thread here that recommended Zissner Coverstain http://www.screwfix.com/p/zinsser-cover-stain-primer-white-1ltr/17114. I was also thinking about Zissner B-I-N http://www.screwfix.com/p/zinsser-b-i-n-shellac-based-primer-sealer-white-1ltr/29661 as I was also going to repaint some laminate furniture and this seems to be the recommended product. Is there much difference between using one or the other? I guess as the B-I-N is more expensive I might be better off getting the Coverstain for the desk (the surface is ~4.5 square metres) and a smaller tin of B-I-N for the laminate furniture.

For the black paint, I really have no idea what type to go for. I tend to eat at the desk, so it would need to be reasonably stain/water resistant. Also as I will be writing on the desk, I guess I need something hard wearing to avoid indentations? Also with regards to matte vs gloss, any personal opinions?

Finally, any suggestions on how many coats of primer/paint to use? Although I guess it depends on what paint/primer I go with.

Thanks!


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## Phil Pascoe (25 Sep 2016)

http://www.morland-uk.com/shop/laminate ... black.html

Just a thought. I wouldn't think a painted top surface on a desk would ever look much.


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## Flynnwood (25 Sep 2016)

For the desk, use an oil based undercoat either dark grey or tinted to black. No need for Coverstain.

(If) there are any knots anywhere on your desk, seal them with knotting solution first.

For the two topcoats I would go with either oil based eggshell or oil based satin (all Trade paint - not Retail).

The finish will depend on skill. This stuff will help the pain flow beautifully and leave no brushmarks (subject to laying off correctly):

http://owatrol.com/en/decoration/painti ... l-oil.html

B-I-N will be fine as a primer for the laminate furniture. It contains shellac so smells a bit whilst using/drying.


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## ED65 (26 Sep 2016)

As already mentioned no need for Coverstain since you're painting a dark colour.



Russell_AH":2oloza63 said:


> From reading around the internet, it seems that i should go for an oil-based primer, what would you recommend?


There's nothing wrong with painting plywood with water-based products but oil-based paints will tend to dry harder and be tougher than water-based paints so for that reason alone I'd go with oil-based for a desk. This type of paint pongs a bit so be prepared for the odour. 

You'll want to leave the desk to dry in a well-ventilated room for a few days after the last coat has been applied before you use it. 



Russell_AH":2oloza63 said:


> Also with regards to matte vs gloss, any personal opinions?


I would go gloss or semi-gloss/satin myself. Matt paint tends to get buffed by use and become more shiny anyway, especially at corners, which isn't that attractive.



Russell_AH":2oloza63 said:


> Finally, any suggestions on how many coats of primer/paint to use? Although I guess it depends on what paint/primer I go with.


Yes it really depends on what you buy. Figure one coat of primer and at least two coats of paint, that would be fairly typical.

Generally it's best to use primer at full strength, but brush or roller it on thinly. For the paint though it's usually worth thinning it at least for the first coat, but be guided by the original consistency of the paint you get. If it's very fluid you might not need to. 

If the paint is more the usual consistency, about that of honey, you might want to so decant some to a fresh container and add some white spirit, then stir well. About 1/4 extra spirits is often about right, making the paint more fluid but not too watery.

You might want to thin the paint just a tad for the second and any subsequent coats, again depending on the original consistency of the paint. As little as 5% more spirits can make the paint easier to apply and it will tend to dry more smoothly too.


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## rafezetter (26 Sep 2016)

All the advice above is good but there may be a third option - I also live in bristol and do spraying, and as it happens I recently made / finished a black desk so have the necessary primer / paint and heavily tinted varnish.

If you've not assembled the desk yet and have transport, you could bring the components to me for not a great deal more than the cost of buying the products yourself, and you won't have to deal with the stink either !

TBH, there are only a few products that would allow you to write on the desk directly without a pad to support the paper, and all of them take time to build layers - everything else, writing without a pad, will suffer to a greater or lesser degree from ballpoint pressure if you are heavy handed enough to have that as a consideration.

Personally I use one of these - they are great and easily cleaned too.

http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/...sers/pröjs-desk-pad-transparent-art-66703500/


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## Russell_AH (26 Sep 2016)

Ok, so I'm a bit confused when you say don't bother with coverstain but to still use a primer/undercoat; I thought coverstain was a primer? Or is it just a more expensive primer to fulfill a special job that I don't need? And is there a difference between primer and undercoat?

Flynnwood: what is the difference between trade and retail paint?

rafezetter: that could be an option, where abouts are you? The desk top will be in 4 pieces (approx 120cm x 90cm), and should have transport if I can get one of my housemates to drive .

If I do paint it myself, are there any other tips/things I should be aware of, such as sanding between coats etc?


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## Flynnwood (27 Sep 2016)

Wood should really be primed, then undercoated, then two coats of topcoat. Resinous wood would need aluminium wood primer.

But as you are using plywood and for interior use, my advice stands on a cost basis. 

Coverstain is used to cover stains, so not applicable in your case.

The difference in retail/trade is quality i.e. coverage and durability.

Kier Group Construction use Johnstone's Trade paint


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## Droogs (27 Sep 2016)

I've had some pretty impressive results with Wickes own brand matte black blackboard paint put straight onto the ply in 3 coats with a small rad sponge roller. Used for plinths for displaying shinny white marble and matt alabaster figures.


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## rafezetter (27 Sep 2016)

Hi - Yes sanding between coats is good practice to "de-nib" - as unless you've been very careful with your sanding, and your paint application is laid down properly, (and you've strained the paint to remove lumps) you'll get bit's on the surface that need sanding back prior to the next coat, plus it's also recommended for ensuring the next coat will "key" the the previous.

l live in Filton if that helps any - I should also mention I use trade paint, as my builder friend who lives here buys it for me.

If you decided you wanted to keep the desk for some time and it was worth it and I were to spray it - just for info, I would give it 2 coats of tinted primer, 2 coats of johnstones trade paint, then 2 coats of heavily tinted floor varnish - I find this gives better depth than plain black paint, plus when scratched or damaged all you are cutting through is the varnish layer, so the colour layers are not affected making repairs easy, and the finish more durable.

Heh - not trying to oversell it, though it might seem that way - it's just an option, it all really depends on the value you place on the desk !


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## Russell_AH (11 Oct 2016)

OK, if I were to do it myself, would you be able to give me some suggestions on which products to use (and where to get them if they are are trade quality instead of retail).
For the primer, would a product such as this be suitable:
http://www.diy.com/departments/leyland-trade-dark-grey-primer-undercoat-25l/330461_BQ.prd, it's a dark, oil based primer (although the tin is much larger than I need).

As for the black paint, I really have no idea, there seem to be so many categories....

Regarding varnish, is it really necessary? I don't expect this desk to last for years and years and years, although if I can prolong it/improve the quality for not too much extra cost/effort then I'd like to.


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## Russell_AH (16 Oct 2016)

As an alternative, would I be able to get away with a water based primer and black paint (such as this: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Dulux-Matt-Emul ... L/p/107099), and then use a varnish such as http://www.wickes.co.uk/Ronseal-Interio ... l/p/117954? Would the varnish make up for the fact that the paint is not as durable?


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## Jake (17 Oct 2016)

I'd use Tikkurila Helmi (over Otex primer). Waterbased but tough as nails, beautiful finish and dead easy to use with a short-nap microfiber mini-roller.


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