# Pine Table



## Pvt_Ryan (26 Oct 2010)

What is the best way to finish a solid pine table?

The previous own it looks like has tried to do something with it as there are drip stains everywhere. 

I am thinking if I sand it down by hand to get to the good wood but not sure where to go from there. I do have a georgian oak stain (which I find quite pleasing) & clear varnish but I am not sure it will really go well in the room which is already a mismash of woods.

Pics of it in it's current state


















Thanks,

Ryan


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## jimmy (26 Oct 2010)

hi there
i think i would sand it back then put on couple coats tinted sanding sealer light sand between, then just use wax clear or tinted to get the colour you need going to do that to the top of my new bed head and foot board that is nearly done but i'm using clear shelac sanding sealer as i like the colour of the white oak post pics shortly can't find my conection to computer. jimmy.


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## mickthetree (26 Oct 2010)

would say it depends on the room / house / look you are going for.

If its a rustic look you are after, a belt sanding with a rough grit and some stained wax would do that.


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## mtt.tr (26 Oct 2010)

As above i would use wax


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## Pvt_Ryan (26 Oct 2010)

Any particular brand or is briwax good enough? (it's the only one I have heard of before / used)


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## mickthetree (26 Oct 2010)

briwax is fine.

I cant find the cheap wax I bought for this












But even that was good enough. Just follow the instructions on the tin.

I'm pretty sure this one was Briwax antique pine:


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## Pvt_Ryan (26 Oct 2010)

Thanks



mickthetree":1uonoog6 said:


> But even that was good enough. Just follow the instructions on the tin.



Bah I'm a man, I don't read instructions, if i can't get it to work it's clearly broken..


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## Pvt_Ryan (27 Oct 2010)

updated with pics.


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## mickthetree (27 Oct 2010)

Hey Ryan

Yuch! what have they tried to do to that??!!?

Looks ripe for a good sanding down and waxing.

Up to you what you go for, but personally I like pine to look like pine. Not pretending to be a darker wood.

Top looks like its not too bad, but those sides and legs might need a bit of elbow grease.

you can cut strips of sandpaper and use them in a push pull action around the curves to sand them easier.


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## Pvt_Ryan (27 Oct 2010)

Thinking on this my main question is should I go with clear briwax or use the pine briwax?

I dont really understand why you would use anything other than clear as how can pine wax make pine look any more like pine? :S I assume it gives it a more aged look but I really have a lack of xp here.

I've stained all my other projects with Georgian Oak as I'd bought cheap wood (or ply wood) that no amount of sanding and polishing would improve.

What sort of grit should i start at? I have 80 lying about but I dont want to remove too much of the actual wood. 

Ryan


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## mickthetree (27 Oct 2010)

My understanding is that pine can go an unattractive yellow colour if left clear. Although I'm never sure if this is only true with varnish or wax. To be honest I've not found this with the old pine I've used so far, but I prefer the antique wax colour myself anyway. They can look awfuly dark in the tin, but try some test patches underneath first if you are worried.

In terms of grit, decide what is appropriate for the piece. Again, only my opinion, but it looks like a fairly rustic table to me. Farmhouse style. I would start with 80 grit, especially on those rails and legs. Just take it easy to start and wrap the paper round a block on the flat areas.

I've found that pine takes the wax a lot better with some rough fibres to grab onto. I planned that pine table in the photo too fine and always wished I'd belt sanded it and just waxed after some 100 grit at most.

Good luck!


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## Pvt_Ryan (27 Oct 2010)

Would 150 grit + course steel wool be ok you think?


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## mtt.tr (27 Oct 2010)

i would go fromm 80 then wor my way up removing the scratches from the previous grit


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## mickthetree (27 Oct 2010)

yeah 150 sounds plenty enough. use a medium wire wool to apply the wax and buff off with a clean cloth.

Try some test sanding and waxing patches underneath the table.


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## Pvt_Ryan (27 Oct 2010)

Should I go Rustic
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Briwax-Original-R ... 45f57afaab

or 

Antique
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Briwax-Original-A ... 43a1e07693


I am thinking rustic for that farmhouse look...


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## mickthetree (27 Oct 2010)

antique gets my vote.


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## Pvt_Ryan (28 Oct 2010)

rustic 1 - antique 1

vote people..


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## mickthetree (28 Oct 2010)

how about I change my vote and you can go with the rustic? :wink: 

Actually 0000 wire wool would probably be best. otherwise you might get some nasty scratches in the pine after your sanding.


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## [email protected] (29 Oct 2010)

the worst thing you can do is sand it. Strip it using paint stripper, then stain/finish it. If you sand it, expecially the legs, it will look foul once stained and the sanding will be a ton of tedious work....


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## Pvt_Ryan (25 Nov 2010)

Finally got the top striped with nitromors. Needed to give it a quick sand down with 60 grit due to some damage to the top (and bottom of the top for testing). 

I've used 0000 wool to apply some briwax to the bottom but where there are knots I find the wood has small crevasses which I've noticed is getting some wire wool "bits" (like lint from a cloth) trapped in them making the knotted area darker and dirty looking. 

How do I prevent the wool getting in there or get it out?


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## yellowbelly (26 Nov 2010)

try hessian instead of wire wool to put the wax on


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