# Elm Sideboard



## Imperial (30 Apr 2008)

I've been making an Elm Sideboard and posted a picture of the bookmatched top in another thead, Elm cabinet 2. I've just started cutting the dovetails on one end having now glued up all the required panels for the carcass. It's murder to work with as far as movement is concerned
but the end result I hope will be worth it. I'll post updates if anyone is interested, but only have pictures of the panels and the Veneer for the door panels at the moment. 

Tried to change the picture sizes, not too big I hope?


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## woodbloke (1 May 2008)

Looks like this is going to be a good piece...keep us posted on progress - What are the conditions like in your 'shop to help minimise movement in the elm? - Rob


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## Imperial (1 May 2008)

Its been in 3 different places, and some of it has moved some not! I'm going to use through wedged tenons on the bottom shelf of the carcass to hopefully pull in the lightly cupped sides, and the through dovetails at the top should do the same. 3 Doors on the front, with bookmatched Elm Burr panels on Lipped MDF , sort of Shaker, they will be flush at the show side with a 3mm reveal round the edge. The 3 drawer fronts above are from one plank and will also have through dovetails to match the top detail. Have the design on Sketchup but have not figured out how to save as a picture to upload.I cut the waste from one end of the top and used the method, for the first time, where a wood block is clamped above the scribed shoulder line and the chisel rests against it to keep the bottom nice and square, It works a treat and I'll be using this method everytime from now on. Can post a pic if anyone does not know what I mean? Been using a Japanese Saw for these dovetails but will have a LN saw next week to cut the drawer fronts, it'll be interesting to see if it's easier, or better, a LN No4 in iron with High angle frog too, sorry little gloat there..


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## Imperial (6 May 2008)

Started cutting the pins on the top and was very pleased to get this fit straight off the saw. The more eagle eyed among you will see the tails are sticking out a little! This was due to resizing the stock, the cupping issues, after already cutting the tails. Will be planing them flush after glue up. Was quite time consuming to do all by hand.


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## woodbloke (6 May 2008)

Better to have the tails sticking out just a fraction than the other way round, makes it easier to just flush them off when the joint has been glued - Rob


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## Imperial (8 May 2008)

Started making the housing for the bottom shelf which will have through wedged tenons. Used a router in between 2 length's of mdf clamped to the panel as I did not have the correct width bit to fit the shelf. Takes ages to cut the mortises, trying to keep the cuts clean and inline. I did one side fully and I'm half way through the other side. Drilled out some of the waste with a 12mm forstner bit to make it a little easier.


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## devonwoody (11 May 2008)

Put me down as an interested party to your workpiece.

Have to congratulate you on your hand made joints, you must be a younger man than me!


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## Imperial (11 May 2008)

I'm posting the pictures as work is progressing, I cut rails and stiles for the doors on Friday but trying to get the Elm to match up in colour and grain is making for a lot of waste. I practised making a few holes in the waste with a Festool Domino, Can't decide what type/size to use or the fit! There are tight, loose or very loose settings which means I could fit two of the tenons next to each other with a little play, or just one big one, seems a little small. Rails are 60mm x 20mm and the biggest tenons are 22mm wide x 10mm thick x 40mm long I think! I'm still trying to get the hinges and runners for the drawers which will have no handles, push to open fittings. I just got a LN Dovetail saw, so will be cutting all the through dovetail joints on the drawers with that, it will be interesting to see if it makes a better job then the Japanese one use for the top? I think I'll have quite a lot of small offcuts left at the end of construction would anyone be interested?

It doesn't all look as nice as this piece though!


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## lucky9cat (13 May 2008)

Lovely wood and superb looking dovetails. It's going to be a really interesting looking piece.

Keep us posted, Ted


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## Anonymous (14 May 2008)

Lovely work bloonose - like the mortises and sympathise with you for all the effort involved in those and the dovetails (DTs by hand are a pleasure to make, by router a chore)


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## Imperial (14 May 2008)

Finished cutting all the tenons using the same method as the dovetails to remove the waste and keep the seats and shoulders square, used the new LN dovetail saw, very fast and quite a clean cut, its much easier to stay on your lines, does not seem to wander , but I'm still getting used to it.










I stuck the 4 panels together to get a feel for the size and look, quite happy so far.






I've cut all the rails and stiles for the doors, they will be joined with domino biscuits 1 third to 2 thirds ratio depth of hole, but could not resist getting out the veneer to see what they will end up looking like. The panels will be book matched inside and out consecutively, cant afford to make any mistakes though as only have 12 leaves!!!! The tenons will be diagonally wedged and a friend has given me some rosewood which be used for that.


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## Imperial (15 May 2008)

Been lipping the door Panels which are 9mm MDF in some Elm too boring to show pictures of, so posting a couple of pictures of a Table Top I made which I'm learning to French Polish. Its difficult to take the pics as the shine reflects anything and everything but it makes the Burr show up really well.


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## Digit (15 May 2008)

It's a terrible shame IMO BN that people avoid French polish as old had or difficult to do, it really is a beautiful finish.
My wife was totally against the idea till I polished a sewing machine case, I've now been allowed! to polish two other small items.
For those who think it's difficult to do, it isn't but, it not only highlights the figure in timber it also highlights the slightest defect in your workmanship! I know!

Roy.


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## devonwoody (16 May 2008)

Nice work and pictures up there.


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## Lord Nibbo (16 May 2008)

Lovely work 100 out of 100 for workmanship. Nice combination of different woods. =D>


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## TheDudester (16 May 2008)

Bloonose":3rhejjly said:


> Been lipping the door Panels which are 9mm MDF in some Elm too boring to show pictures of, so posting a couple of pictures of a Table Top I made which I'm learning to French Polish. Its difficult to take the pics as the shine reflects anything and everything but it makes the Burr show up really well.



Very nice workmanship and pictures.

If you can take pictures without the flash at times you will be able to compare .

Without flash does is more natural.

D


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## Paul Chapman (16 May 2008)

Those veneers are really stunning.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Imperial (19 May 2008)

Been using the Festool Domino, to make the connections between rails and stiles for the doors. It was very quick once the layouts were decided upon. I chose to have 20mm in the stile and 28mm in the rail, so a different depth stop on the machine made that easy, the tenons are 8mm thick. They are a very tight fit but a slight rub on some sand paper or leaving the biscuits in a hot place will sort that. I have left about 5mm from the top and around 10mm from the grooved side to allow me to have a 6mm rebate for the panel to float in. The panels will be flush to the front but have a 3mm x 3mm reveal all the way round hence the panels being lipped in solid before veneering the burr on top of a 9mm MDF substrate. A big thanks goes to Dom who used to post here for the use of his workshop and Domino.


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## Imperial (20 May 2008)

Just some new pictures and a little detail, doors now ready for the panels, panels have been lipped and flushed to the substrate ready for the veneer to be applied. Did that with a block plane. Just glued on no biscuits, too thin for that. Mitres cut on the table saw then a little shaving if rq'd on a shooting board.




















Please let me know if this project's progress is of no interest and I'll just post the result? or if anyone wants more detail same goes.


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## TheDudester (20 May 2008)

I love seeing the progress and pictures.

Thanks for sharing.

D


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## Paul Chapman (20 May 2008)

Carry on posting the pictures, Bloonose - they're very interesting. I'm particularly interested in your use of the Domino. I had a go of it when I visted Dom and was very impressed - wish I could afford one.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Imperial (21 May 2008)

Did the veneer prep, see pics. The one without the tape is after cutting for the bookmatch. I had to get a pair of rectangles 180mm x 400mm, one for the back and one for the front for 3 doors, quite time consuming. Then tape them together with the face side having the tape. Will try to glue them tomorrow using a 2 part urethane glue in a hot press which will set in about 15 minutes. The veneer is still quite flexible and is not cracking when a bubble is pushed, but it still has some cracks which I have also taped. Cross your fingers for me that there are no mishaps as I don't have any more of the veneer.......


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## devonwoody (22 May 2008)

Best of luck or is it skill!


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## Imperial (27 May 2008)

The panels have turned out quite well, though the photo is poor due to sanding the panels after removing all the tape. It hides the detail. Will be cutting the rebate to make them fit into the door spaces, maybe on a spindle moulder or a router in a table. Then making the frame for the drawers to run on and a rail to support the bottom shelf as its rather wide and could sag. 3 Drawers next and that will mean cutting and fitting approx 60 dovetails by hand. Using a similar design to the top with different sized tails.


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## Philly (27 May 2008)

Great veneer! Love it!
Philly


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## woodyone (27 May 2008)

Wow there is so much to say, but first i must compliment you on your dovetail joint, very neat. I'm looking forward to seeing the end product.


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## Paul Chapman (28 May 2008)

Those veneers look lovely.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Mcluma (28 May 2008)

The veneer job looks good


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## Imperial (28 May 2008)

Did the rebate on the panels on the Spindle Moulder as it had a Knife and Cutter on the block so less chance of tearing. Made a few mistakes, like forgetting to take into account the thickness of the veneer when making the grooves in the frames and another small but costly error. Didn't cause damage just time to resolve with Shoulder and block planes. The pics are of the panel close up and the front and rear of a door. the burr shows up a little better. The gap all round the edge is not 3mm exactly due to the above but it will be better when I do the glue up. Thanks for all the comments!


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## woodbloke (28 May 2008)

Keep the pics coming, excellent work so far, really looking forward to seeing the whole thing as it comes together. I hope you like working with the elm as much as I do...it's a fantastic native timber...apart from seasoning it :x - Rob


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## Imperial (28 May 2008)

1st and last methinks, its been a nightmare. Virtually every part has twisted or cupped or both. It's taken at least twice as long to make this as it should just due correcting problems with the timber, but it will be all about the timber rather than the design, a little rustic,when its finished, or should I say if!


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## Imperial (29 May 2008)

Been finishing a table which I showed pics of french polishing the top, and applied sanding sealer to the Burr panels. The table is made from Walnut, Ebony and Satinwood. Also prep'd up the drawer sides, which had cupped, back to flat and will cut them to length and width once they have settled over night. The drawer fronts are from one plank which I can now cut to size as I know the final door dimensions and width of the cabinet.


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## woodyone (29 May 2008)

I really do like the table you have just finished and french polishing it is just like the cherry on top :lol: 

Woody.


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## DavidE (29 May 2008)

That table is really nice I like the burr, and the overall craft in it that is on show.

Cheers
David


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## Imperial (30 May 2008)

Glued up the doors, prep'd the 3 drawer fronts from one plank and marked out for the through dovetails on the drawers which sort of match the top. The gap between tails is 5mm, not the usual small amount used when hand cutting them, but I think it will look better on the design which has a 15mm overhang at the bottom of each drawer front to hide the push to open mechanism.


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## Imperial (2 Jun 2008)

Made the drawer support panel and made mortises in the end panels to take a rail which will help with any sagging of the bottom shelf. The DSP has biscuits to connect at the front edge and a floating tenon at the other as there could be expansion of the side panel. This should stop any problems and the rail will be attached to the side panel with a domino biscuit. The small stiles will be attched to the side panel with screws though an enlarged pocket screw hole.


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## Imperial (3 Jun 2008)

Did the cutouts on the end panels, cut holes with a "tank cutter" in a drill press then bandsaw'd the waste away. Used a straight edge in combo with a flush bit to trim to the pencil line. Seemed to work ok, but will need to scrape and sand to be happy. Cut the tenons in the shelf support by hand and shoulder planned to perfect fit. Started cutting the drawer sides, in pairs, just doing the fronts at the moment, the LN dovetail saw seemed to leave quite a ragged edge on this Elm, maybe as its quartersawn? Haven't had that happen with the Jap saw. The partition between the cupboard openings, also to hang a door from, looks too nice to be hidden, but needs must. Hope to glue up the carcass tomorrow after making the wedges for the through tenons on the sides.


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## Philly (3 Jun 2008)

Loving this, Bloo!
Keep up the good work,
Philly


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## Imperial (5 Jun 2008)

Not much to update, its amazing how long somethings take to do, even though they seem simple tasks, by the time you find all the equipment or tools you need an hour can have gone!!! I've also added 1.5mm to the length of the bottom shelf, only discovered on dry fit up which will now need to be removed at the shoulder positions, to keep everything square, which will also add more time!!! These things seem to happen when making bespoke as opposed to following a planned drawing, but did get me down a little. Made the wedges in Rosewood which are being fitted diagonally rather than straight hence the mitred ends, done by holding a block plane upside down in the vice and pulling the wedge across the sole, the tenons also have a little kerf cut on them to ease the spread and stop cracks. They are now a little thinner than the picture shows as the gap was not a big as 1st thought (dry fit). I filled the cracked knot in the top panel with some 2 pack epoxy mixed with dyes after first sealing the area with some shellac sanding sealer,it gave a good idead of what the colour of the piece will be after its finished, quite golden.


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## Imperial (6 Jun 2008)

Did the glue up of the carcass, used a very slow curing glue as it was quite difficult to get everything in place and square + no winding. Put the doors on a few blocks to give me an idea of how it will look, the bottom shelf was a close runner to being the top. Off to Isaac lord for the drawer runners and Tip On mech's tomorrow, hope their in stock! The dark patches are just from soapy water cleaning off the gluey finger marks etc!


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## Paul Chapman (6 Jun 2008)

That's coming together very nicely. I do like those doors.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Imperial (9 Jun 2008)

Started cutting all the dovetails on the drawer fronts, taking ages, but turning out ok. I started removing the waste with a coping saw, but gave up and just removed everything with the chisels. Saved some time, but still only managed to do 2 full fronts and one half drawer done in around 4 hrs. just pushed them together a little so see the effect in the carcass. Have the " tip on " Blum fixings bought from Isaac Lord and the drawer runners. and look like they will work perfectly with the design. I'll try to remember to take some pic's of them.


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## Imperial (10 Jun 2008)

Took a picture of the Blum fixtures, one open, one closed and the runner being used. none of these should be visible in normal operation, though the pistons for the doors will be seen.


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## Paul Chapman (10 Jun 2008)

Looking at all those pictures, I reckon you must be quite good at dovetails by now  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Imperial (10 Jun 2008)

Yes, it's still time consuming marking them out after deciding spacings etc. The cutting and removal of the waste is very repetitive when cutting so many, 60 tails in the 3 drawers alone, but they fit pretty much straight away with only very minor paring to the sockets. I'll be glad when I've finished them all tomorrow and can rout the stopped groove for the panel and then start fitting them and the doors to the carcass. I'm trying hard to finish it all by Friday.


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## Paul Chapman (10 Jun 2008)

But worth all the hard work - I reckon it's going to look really classy with all those dovetails when it's finished.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Imperial (10 Jun 2008)

Thank you, for the comments and taking the time to look!


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## Imperial (13 Jun 2008)

Got close to finishing today but still a few things left. Need to fit the partition to be able to hang the middle door, rout a groove in the back for the back panel to sit in, fit the runners and pop open pistons which work better than expected and glue up the drawers, just ran out of time!  

The finish will be satin 2 pack and will even up the colour difference in the pictures. Will post the pics when its all done.


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## OPJ (13 Jun 2008)

I had no idea until recently that elm could be such a pipper to work with. Looks like the finished result will definitely be worth all the effort though! :wink: 

Those sash cramps in one of your photo's on the third page, are they of the cheap Toolstation Silverline variety? I bought some recently and they appear to offer very good value for money. I really don't like the cheap aluminium Record ones, personally.


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## Imperial (14 Jun 2008)

Sorry Olly, no idea what make the Sash Clamps are I have some Records which are ok, but was told by Dom who used to post here that the best value for money were, maybe an own brand, sold by Tilgear, though I think they were Aluminium. I'll find out if you want? I personally won't make anything ever again in Elm unless I'm paid very well for the added stress! The Burr veneer is some of the nicest I've seen though and would look ok when used with some other more stable woods. The photo's don't really show the colours and details. Thanks for looking and the comments, ditto to everyone else who has too!


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## OPJ (14 Jun 2008)

Thanks, I have a Tilgear catalogue somewhere so I'll have a quick browse myself later. The Toolstation "Expert Sash Cramps" are apparently made from "bright drawn serrated steel with cast iron cramp heads" and they don't appear to flex even half as much as the cheaper aluminium Record's.

This burr does indeed look lovely and I've just realised that you used the same length of timber for the drawer fronts; very nice touch.


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## Imperial (1 Jul 2008)

Been a while since I updated. Been gluing up drawers, fitting the partition for the middle door to hang on, routing a groove all round the back for the Birch back panel to fit into, I think it makes the spaces brighter when opened? and holes for the Tip on pistons, one for each door and drawer. They have quite a powerful action, and it may be that I could have used the smaller type ! I've also made some shelves, one to fit permanently to the big space and an adjustable one for the single space.The runners for the drawers need to be screwed in place, but that should be the last thing other than sanding before the finishing begins.

Making a start on a TV/ Hifi cabinet, in Sycamore, I'm thinking of Burr Poplar panels for the doors and side panels as it contrasts very nicely with Sycamore. Got the wood all sized, but leaving it to settle before cutting to length.


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## Imperial (8 Aug 2008)

Been on holiday and was then ill for a while so did not finish the sideboard till today. It still has to have the finish applied but I thought I'd try something different and video the drawer and door opening mechanisms working and post them on youtube. I can't figure out how to make this play directly here so just provided the link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTSnQlBCLc4

I'll post the pic's of the item when finish has been applied the as at the moment it looks a little odd with different lighting and my photography skill are very poor.


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