# Aldi scroll saw



## Drifter

Ciao to all, I am an absolute beginner at scrolling, just purchased the aldi saw and looked on YouTube about how to assemble correctly. I have tried a simple aeroplane outline cut but did not find it as easy as I first imagine........ It was hard to cut straight lines and even harder to follow a tight curve. I noticed that the blade does not seem to be perpendicular, I would say angled by about 2/3mm, also I am not sure about the tensioning of it. I was cutting 8nn ply. Any advise would be greatly appreciated as I have a grandson waiting for dinosaurs. Thanks in advance, Gino


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## andymc007

I purchased the same saw the other week. Until I bought some blades to replace the supplied blades I had similar problems that you described. 

It was like night and day. 

Also check that the table is square to the blade as I found that the markings on the table indicator were off a good bit. A small square will tell you. 

The pinless blade adapters proved to be useless and after one popped out and smacked me in the head I binned them. 

I have managed to make some dinosaur toys for my little one with it  

However be warned. It’s so much fun you may want to upgrade quickly. I just bought a Hegner. 

By the way I know very little about the craft so I’m sure better advice will be along soon.


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## Drifter

Many thanks for the prompt reply. I will check the table first thing in the morning. You are right, I am sure it is going to be real fun. I adore woodwork. I am a picture framer, apart from the hundreds of moulding in stock sometimes to suit an occasion I make my own. What tension should the blade be and how can one measure the tension? I am the kind of person that what I do I have to do well, so, you are right, an upgrade to the top machine is necessary. Is there an optimum blade to use with most woods? Many thanks, Gino


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## novocaine

1. table set, cut about 5mm in to a bit of 20mm wood, stop the saw, remove the block and swing it round to the back of the blade. try to put the block on the blade from the back, does it go on? if the answer is no, the table isn't square, adjust and repeat till it slides on. 
2. blades, pegus and olson are the choice of most folks on here, I like the former. the choice of blade geometry (number of teeth basically) depends on the thickness of wood and to an extent type of wood. I find I end up with a no. 5 a lot. chart available here
https://www.olsonsaw.net/shop/scroll-sa ... lades-5in/
or here
https://www.workshopheaven.com/pegas-su ... lades.html
3. the pinless blade adapters aren't to bad on the aldi saw but can be made to work better with a bit of thought to retention and replacing the screws that clamp the blade. that isn't to say they are the best and I can see where Andy is coming from.
4. blade tension, a low C when plucked, basically as tight as she will suffer without snapping, you get a feel for it. 
5. straight lines, nope, it's a scroll saw, it doesn't do straight lines without lots of input. they will do it with effort. have a search for a practice pattern, there are plenty out there, run through it a few times and you'll be away for the price of a few sheets of ply.

good luck, the Aldi saw is a schepach, not the best in the world but quite capable with the right blade and some practice. you will see it sold under 20 or so different names including record, einhill and sip.


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## Drifter

Many thanks, I had to adjust the table to be square to the blade....... Seems to be working. I have tighten the blade as tight as it would go without braking the lever. I have ordered some spiral blades also a selection of pinned and pinless. Is there an optimum blade speed to suit wood or vary according to thickness. Can't wait to cut some basic projects. I am a picture framer and printer, the photo jigsaw puzzle would sell well. Thanks again, Gino


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## whatknot

Practice mate ;-) 

The more you do the better you will become 

I hear you have ordered some spirals, do yourself a favour and put them to one side until you are a wee bit more proficient, they are a pain 

Good quality pinned blades will make all the difference, when you find you can do most of what you want to do with them then try pinless 

And only then after yet more practice with pinless blades, try the spirals 

Then find they are a pain and go back to pinless ;-) 

I don't know what blades you have ordered but would recommend Pegas


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## Drifter

Thanks, 
I ordered the spirals because I was under the impression it would be easier on tight curves.
I am practising like mad...………..lets hope soon I will be proficient, cant wait to make a complex .job with it. I had to adjust the table in der to be square to the blade. thanks again


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## AES

FWIW, I agree with whatknot. In THEORY, spiral blades should make cutting curves much easier - in THEORY that is! I tried them and found that for me anyway, theory and practice just didn't match up. And there is at least one experienced member here who calls them the work of the devil! OTOH I've seen some great stuff on Youtube, etc, by people who produce superb work and who use spiral blades all the time.

So in other words, you pays yer money and takes yer choice! It's finally up to you.

BUT again, I think whatnot's quite right. Get some more practice in with "normal" blades, both pinned and unpinned (pinless are generally better and certainly easier for inside cuts). Get a practice pattern (most consist of straight lines, sharp and open angles, plus curves, tight and shallow - there are plenty available on the net - just Google).

Once you've got the hang of that, by all means have a go at spiral blades, but be warned, the technique IS different. After a bit of practice with "normal" blades, you'll get used to the fact that they all cut in 1 direction only - obvious! BUT spiral blades cut in ALL directions - obvious again! But what that means is that whereas with all normal blades you can "relax" the cut (as you turn a sharp corner for example) with spiral blades there's NO point/angle at which the blade won't cut, so there's no "relax! point"!

And also FWIW, I too like Pegas blades.

HTH


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## Drifter

Thanks again for the much appreciated advise. The blades I have ordered are Pegas......... By lucky chance. Everything you said makes sense especially the lack of control with spiral blades. When you cut a tight curved, how much can you twist the blade before it breaks? Is it just a, case of following the lines by rotating the wood? How often do blade snap? Ciao, Gino


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## ScaredyCat

What are they like? I was under the impression that at this cheaper end of the market all scroll saws (regardless of who 'makes' them ) were not very good at all. If I can grab one at this price and it's Ok for things like those Christmas reindeer etc then I'll be happy enough for the moment. I'd also like to know how messy and how noisey they are.

.


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## whatknot

You will find at the start that blades break quite often, its just inexperience, I still get the odd break but generally wear out the blade before it does

As I said earlier, its all down to practice

The more you do the better you get at it

If you have ordered pinned Pegas blades amongst those you have ordered you will immediately see the difference between them and the bog standard variety sold in multiple outlets of DIY type stores etc 

With practice you will find you can spin a piece on the blade making a nice sharp angle but there are some ways to do that without turning at the end of the cut, there are lots of you tube videos out there which I would recommend you watch a lot of, you will pick a lot up from those who have been at it for years 




Drifter":1ee912tr said:


> Thanks again for the much appreciated advise. The blades I have ordered are Pegas......... By lucky chance. Everything you said makes sense especially the lack of control with spiral blades. When you cut a tight curved, how much can you twist the blade before it breaks? Is it just a, case of following the lines by rotating the wood? How often do blade snap? Ciao, Gino


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## AES

I don't know the Aldi one myself (I had an Einhell, not the current model) but as above, I think they're all much of a muchness - some say they come from the same factory in China, with only cosmetic differences.

Let's be clear, they all cut! The problem I had with mine, and others seem to have had similar problems, is that during manufacturing, the 2 arms, which are cast "monkey metal" can warp. That means that as you sit/stand at the saw, the blade is not vertical, but is cocked off to one side a bit - and possibly also, cocked off sideways forwards or rearwards in the vertical plane. Being cast, IMO it's not possible to straighten the arms.

However, as it's Aldi in this case, if you do get one of these (they're not all the same) then there's the 3 year money back/exchange guarantee. So that's pretty safe.

But they all (Aldi and all the rest it seems) also suffer from poor blade retaining systems and poor tensioning systems, plus the blower system isn't very good, and they often have no variable speed, so using them regularly is a PITA. DAMHIKT!

BUT if you just want to use one now and then, perhaps just to turn out some one-off Christmas ornaments, and then leave the machine idle for the rest of the year, then again IMO, they're worth a punt. Fitted with decent blades (e.g. Pegas, Niqua, Olsson, etc,) they WILL do the job, and plenty of people have made good stuff with such machines. It's a different story if you get addicted though, and end up wanting to use them every day. Then I suggest you'll soon get pretty fed up with their shortcomings. Just like I did.

BTW, I didn't scrap my Einhell. My wife has a girlfriend who wanted to try scrolling, so after she'd had a go in my shop and liked it, I refurbished the Einhell as well as I could, and passed it on to her where it's still in use now and then.

In other words, they DO cut, and the Aldi 3 years guarantee makes it less risky than my Einhell turned out to be.

Your choice. But as also already said, there seems to be a gap in the market - either one of these up to 150 quid efforts, or something MUCH better, but MUCH more expensive - OR second hand of course.

HTH

P.S. Breaking blades? Yes, it happens, and it's a big shock (noise, not danger) when it does. OTOH, decent blades are remarkably tough and with a bit of practice will soon show you want not to do - and blades are pretty cheap. Practice is the answer.


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## whatknot

A great many of the lower end saws are made in the same factories and are largely the same with a few minor differences 

The Aldi saw is variable speed, can take pinned or pinless blades (but easier to use with pinned) 

I know the previous Aldi saws were actually a Scheppach re-badged as Workzone, and as far as I can see still are 

Screwfix sell the Scheppach SD 1600V for £130 which appears to have the same spec as the Workzone at £70

The lower end saws will do a job of work and great fun can be had with them, but rather like anything in life, cars, computers, etc etc, the better quality machines are easier and more enjoyable to use, they tend to have less vibration and are quieter, blade changing on the better quality machines is also far easier 

I started out on a cheapie machine and used it virtually every day with no great issues, but it could only take pinned blades and I wanted to branch out to pinless, I tried in vain to convert it to pinless but realised anything spent on it to convert it was a waste of money 

Get a cheapie and try it out, we are all different and enjoy different things, scroll sawing may not be for you but at a small outlay (comparatively) you can try it out and see how you get on with, just keep in mind what I said about the better quality machines, if you like it you can always move on up 

They are not so messy as other woodworking machines but do produce sawdust, so adding a dust extractor is wise, I used an old vacuum cleaner at first, a bit noisy but did the job 



ScaredyCat":2zv3puic said:


> What are they like? I was under the impression that at this cheaper end of the market all scroll saws (regardless of who 'makes' them ) were not very good at all. If I can grab one at this price and it's Ok for things like those Christmas reindeer etc then I'll be happy enough for the moment. I'd also like to know how messy and how noisey they are.
> 
> .


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## ScaredyCat

Thanks, I've ordered the aldi one to have a play...



andymc007":1lxo86pg said:


> I purchased the same saw the other week. Until I bought some blades to replace the supplied blades I had similar problems that you described.



Which blades did you get and from where ? 


.


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## AES

Pegas blades are available from Axminster Tools. Also Hobbies in Norfolk stock blades (I believe they are Niqua blades, plus also a cheaper/lower quality blade I THINK ) and Hegner sell "their own" blades (which I believe - not sure - are also Niqua).

All have web sites and all do mail order - just Google.

HTH


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## ScaredyCat

Yes, I was more asking which ones in particular because I presumed blades for different machines would be different lengths etc.

Axminster have this set ( https://www.axminster.co.uk/pegas-36-wo ... ack-102117 ), but it says 130mm, but the Aldi saw says 134mm approx. Also the terminology they use means nothing to me. 

.


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## whatknot

Ignore the blade length re 134 or 130mm they all take standard blades 

I would recommend watching a few you tube videos on blade difference and selection, part one and two of this one are very informative 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=06Kf9h2CXJ0


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## whatknot

PS meaning all standard blades (which are 5" or about 130mm) fit all machines, it just depends upon the type, ie pinned, pinless or spiral, they are all the same length 

The only machine I am aware of that takes a different size is the Dremel Motosaw which is not really a scroll saw as such but its sold as one, blades for those are shorter and rather expensive with less choice


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## SamS

I too am a complete beginner and have been learning as I go with the Aldi scroll saw. I love it but now want to give the toy shapes smooth and rounded edges.
My research says I need a router but firstly they look huge and require 2 hands to operate (and my shapes are toys -
dinosaurs and boats for peg people which are obviously very small) so would I need a table router? I'm hoping there's an alternative for a complete beginner like myself who is clueless on terminology? Apologies, I know this isn't useful for your original post but it kind of progressed from it...
And I will be looking into replacing the blades with the recommended ones from this thread too


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## whatknot

When you say "smooth and rounded" ? how rounded ?

If you use good quality scroll saw blades, sanding will be kept to a minimum, I usually only have to touch up with a fine file or nail file (emery board) 

If you mean a rounded edge, you can achieve that with sanding

There are various types of router, the standard variety usually have two handles and require two hands to operate

There are also palm routers which are smaller, lighter and can be operated with one hand

In both cases you need to secure the piece firmly to a workbench as a minimum 

A router is a fairly mean tool to use, great care must be taken, not only for your projects but more so your eyes & fingers, where with a scroll saw you almost have to set out to hurt yourself, a router takes no prisoners

To get a decent round over on smaller projects you do really need a router table IMHO

Although far from a perfect round over, you can get a reasonable result using a dremel then sanding


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## SamS

Thank you. And I agree that I am far too much of a newbie to entertain the idea of a router. I will look into a dremel as an alternative. As I mentioned originally it would only be for little people toys and to round over would make it look a lot nicer and be more friendly to little hands.


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## whatknot

I hope I didn't put you off the idea of a router at some stage but did want to emphasise the dangers 

They are extremely useful but do need great care in their use


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## SamS

Of course not, I'd still love one but space is an issue as is time and therefore ability to learn and use it to its full potential. Dremels are also a bit overwhelming to me purely due to terminology and being self taught. But I appreciate your advice, thank you! There's only so much googling and you tubing you can do before you just need to ask a human some questions, haha.


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## whatknot

Yes quite right, you need to use things to be able to get experience of them 

You will be pleasantly surprised at how useful a dremel is I suspect


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## whatknot

PS you can pick them up quite cheaply second hand often with a lot of accessories


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## AES

I agree with all the above about routers - mainly they need EXTREME care in use (free hand that is). Also the "average" router used by many here for all sorts of shop work are much too big for rounding off the usually pretty small parts of toys.

My own solution (which I do NOT recommend) happened by accident, but that does lead on to another possibility which I think could help you. First the "accident":

Dremel used to make a tool called the Trio. (At least I think they've stopped, if not they should have done, 'cos IMO it's a pretty poor tool). My accident happened when I was browsing in a quite good local DIY shed where they had a Trio demo model. The carrying case was broken and half the bits and pieces and all the cutters were missing and it was on sale for about 50 quid equivalent. I offered the bloke 25% of the new price (that came down to about 20 quid equivalent) and to my surprise, after checking with the manager he OK'd it.

As said, the motor unit is OK, and quite fast (32,000 rpm if I remember) but the bits are a silly size (about 4.2 mm shank dia if I remember), and the depth adjustment is useless - no accuracy at all. The tool is, IMO, a lousy thing and not at all up to usual Dremel standards.

BUT on Amazon I did find a set of bearing-guided cutters with that silly shank size (useless for anything else) which are excellent cutters, AND ideal for the small parts of toys. Also a very kind member here gave me some other Trio cutters (without bearings) which he's bought by mistake and found the shanks too small for anything else - a BIG advantage of this Forum)!

Added to a very simple (ply) "router table" held with the tool upside down in the vice, I have a very useable round over or angled chamfering tool for toy parts - BUT using it I MUST be careful with my fingers, it's highly dangerous.

The solution to that is to use double-sided carpet tape to stick the parts to a piece of thick Perspex so rounding over then becomes a quite safe proposition.

As said, I think the Trio is a very poor tool (I think they don't even make it any more) but I've seen a "router base" which will fit my "proper" Dremel drill.

I THINK that would work on many similar drills as well as Dremel's own, and provided the drill has a collet of the right size, OR the variable chuck which many drills do have, then those Trio bearing guided bits could be used in the drill, mounted inverted on a simple ply "router table" held in the vice.

BTW, last time I looked on Amazon those bearing-guided Trio router bits are still available.

HTH


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## SamS

Wow, thank you. That is a lot of information and terminology I will have to decipher but I appreciate the advice!

IYO do you think a simple sanding attachment on a dremel wouldn't be sufficient? I'm imagining it wouldn't give the consistent result I'm looking for?

Maybe I just need to accept that I am too much of a newbie and just get the best result I can by hand sanding for now...


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## AES

My pleasure Sir. As my wife always says "nobody fell down out of the sky already knowing how to do ........."! So if you have any questions re terminology, just ask, there's plenty of real experts on here, not just "newbees" like me.

Re hand sanding, it has it's place of course, and for final finishing before painting/oiling/varnishing, it can't be beaten IMO. But it's also quite slow, and I find, rather boring!

The previous poster was dead right - having the right blade will go a LONG way towards reducing the amount of sanding needed. But it won't help much with "proper" regular shape/size round overs or chamfers.

Hand sanding is OK for that, but personally I find it difficult to achieve real consistency (the radius of the round over). I don't know the sanding attachment on the Dremel, sorry, so can't comment. 

But I would GUESS that with the small sizes of a lot of toy parts, it would be difficult to get the radii regular, and to get into all the nooks and crannies. Whatknot's advice about emery boards (the things ladies use to shape their fingers nails) works well, and with practice should produce the consistency you're looking for. I use them quite a lot, along with "custom-made sanding boards" - i.e. odd scraps of flat, round, half-round, etc off cuts with suitable grit sand paper glued on to them. And (shocking to purists no doubt) I use small metal workers warding and needle files sometimes. 

But again that can be quite slow, and for me anyway, somewhat boring, hence my use of the Trio "router" and bearing-guided round over or chamfer bits. I find that method fast and consistent.

HTH


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## Drifter

Ciao to all. I have watched some YouTube video about scroll saw, it all looks so easy but I am not able to turn the wood on a tight bend without twisting the blade, I am afraid it will snap. It seems impossible to create a clean cut without moving the wood back and forth on order to make the blade take the corner. I hope it makes sense. Thanks, Gino


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## whatknot

Most things that take a little skill and experience, look very easy ;-) 

You will learn as you go along and gain experience, choosing the right blade for the job (and good quality blades, not the agricultural ones you get with the saw) will make all the difference 

It depends on the corner, the wood you are cutting etc, you can with a little practice turn on a pin head

There are scroll saw practice patterns out there (more youtube videos I am afraid) with zig zag lines and curves to follow and practice on, but don't be afraid of trying it out on simple projects until you get the hand of it 

Start with some 4mm or 6mm plywood and cut a few things, don't expect to create a superb masterpiece after one go, it takes practice, the more you do the better you get at it


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## AES

Hullo again Drifter. Once again I agree with everything Whatknot has written. To his first sentence I would add, "the more skilful someone is, the easier whatever they're doing seems to be" (!)

Just as he says, most likely the blades that came with the saw will not allow you to "turn corners on a sixpence" - most likely if you look at the width of those blades (distance from the teeth to the back of the blade) they'll be much wider than decent blades. They'll also much likely be made from thicker and softer flat wire. So decent blades will make a big difference. BUT again, just as he says "you gotta practice"! So Google up Mike's Workshop who has a set of FOC downloadable practice patterns which consist of cuts exactly as Whatknot has described. With good blades and some practice you'll be amazed at how tight you can turn, AND (I think I've written this before) don't worry about breaking blades at first, it's a bit of a shock when the blade goes "BANG" but it's not at all dangerous. That's how everyone learns, AND BTW, if the blades that came with the saw are rubbish (most likely) you've got to get rid of them somehow anyway!!!!

Finally, bear in mind that a scroll saw is unlike any other power tool you've used. Once fitted with decent blades you really CAN pivot on the spot (in most woods and most thicknesses) and although it goes against the normal feeling anyone will have for such a "titchy bit of wire", you'll be amazed at how tough they really are and how well they accept 90 and 180 degree (and more) turns.

And BTW, when you've found Mike Good's web site (sorry I can't find the link) you'll find he even has a tutorial on how to turn tight corners with the "agricultural blades" you've probably got now.

HTH - it's very well worth while practising. You'll be amazed at how good you become after a while.


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## whatknot

I suspect you mean Steve Good ? ;-)

http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/


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## AES

Thanks whatknot. That's exactly who I meant. Perhaps that's why I couldn't find the link in my list!!!!

Here it is:

Edit for the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=e ... TJMqzOnWjQ

That's a youtube vid which is very helpful. But it also has a link in it where you can go to his website and get all sorts of goodies, including that practice pattern I mentioned.

Edit for another P.S. Here's a link to a 1 hour+ vid which I found helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIuF5O7SfCQ

Plus the web site (it's a blog actually) where you'll find the practice patterns (amongst a lotof other useful stuff):

http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/

That should keep you going!


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## AES

Hullo again Drifter. While looking for something completely different on my hard drive, I found this:

View attachment 5. Cutting With Maximum Control.pdf


HTH


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## whatknot

I wouldn't argue with anything in that pdf


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## AES

Right whatknot - it works for me


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## Drifter

Many thanks, practising as much as possible, great hobby, always liked woodwork. One thing not easy is to use the provided attachment for pinless blades, the lower clamp is not easy at all to install, I have been thinking of exposing the lower part by removing the side panel it will also facilitate the blade xgange,I think, any advise please. Ciao, Gino


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## whatknot

Removing the side panel to gain better access is something a lot of users do 

The Aldi saw is a Scheppach rebadged (or at least those I have seen are) 

Most saws below £150 have the same type of "hanger" type blade clamps for pinless, which although they work are a pain to use 

What you can do is to change the flat bent metal part at the end of the top and bottom arms, to a different blade clamp available from Axminster 

They cost £5 each plus £3 postage, unless you can collect

They are not perfect but a lot better than the hanger type as they are fixed


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## Drifter

Ciao to all, I am really glad I have ventured into the world of scrolling, you learn as you go along and I have learned that the aldi saw is not bad at all, the almost impossible thing is to use the pinless blades with the supplied adaptors...... It takes too long to change or unclip the blade, I tried projects with many interior cut....... No more, it is better and faster with the pinned blade. I will attempt to design parts for this machine to be able to change pinless blade quickly. Does anyone feels the same? Buongiorno, Gino TV la


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## whatknot

If you have the capability, it shouldn't be to hard to make some, I know others who have, otherwise the clamps as posted previously from Axminster might be an alternative


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## Drifter

Thanks, I will try and make some........ Probably with a wing nut clamp and welded in position....... Should work. Any ideas, advise? Many thanks, Gino


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## whatknot

Not sure welding them in position is such a good idea, what happens when or if one breaks or wears, bolting on would be better IMHO


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## AES

Agreed, I certainly would not weld them if it was me. And what are the arms of this saw made of anyway? If it's like several other similar saws, including my older model Einhell, the arms are made of die cast "monkey metal", so if you tried to weld those they'd more than likely just melt!

If you're going that route I'd strongly suggest bolting them on, like the Axminster clamps posted earlier.


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## Drifter

Many thanks, you are right, welding could be a little drastic. I was not aware the fittings from Axminster can be bolted on....can the pinless blades be changed as quickly as the pinned ones with Axminster clamps? thanks, Gino


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## AES

Personally I dunno Drifter. In the past, when I was trying to get my Einhell saw to work "properly", I did have a pair of those Axi clamps, which I fitted to the saw "somehow" (bolting I think) but I forget what mods I actually did, and the saw (with the clamps) has now been passed on to a lady friend of my wife and is about 200 Km away, sorry.

But if you can weld, have the kit, etc, it sounds like you're quite "handy" in a metal workshop, so you'll work something out! Sorry, I really have forgotten what I did, it's over 4 years ago now.


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## whatknot

If you check the picture of them I posted previously, you unbolt the one thats fitted and using the same bolt, using the smaller of the holes in the figure of eight in the clamp, bolt it in the same position (hook down if you will) I have seen them fitted with the previous tin plate clamp inverted on top, presumably to allow a little more spring from the larger hole when clamping blades

The supplied allen key bolt is used to clamp the pinless blade holding it

Nothing will be as quick as a pinned blade to fit but its just a matter of undoing the allen key bolt, fitting the blade and retightening

The allen key bolt could be replaced with a wing bolt which would speed things up 

If going down that route, I would advocate cleaning up between the clamping surfaces to make them as flat and paint free as possible, when clamping a pinless blade you shouldn't need to be to brutal, just enough to hold it in place

With new pinless blades, I always prepare each one before fitting by sandpapering across the blade 1/2" or so at each end on both sides, it removes the factory finish and the clamp will grip them better 

Generally the bottom of the blade remains clamped, and to put the blade through a small pilot hole in the work piece undo the top clamp, feed the blade through and reclamp, re-set the tension and away you go 



Drifter":1e11vu71 said:


> Many thanks, you are right, welding could be a little drastic. I was not aware the fittings from Axminster can be bolted on....can the pinless blades be changed as quickly as the pinned ones with Axminster clamps? thanks, Gino


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## hawkinob

Hi,
Could this help for the blade clamp, it worked for me.
Bob H.


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## novocaine

the bolts in the wrong place but other than that, that's what my clamps look like too, which meant I could put a rod through the hole that attaches to the arm of the saw to hold the clamps in place.


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