# Router table build at last



## chippy1970 (29 Sep 2010)

Well I have finally got around to starting a new router table its going to be a portable jobbie for workshop and on site use. Its going to hold my dw626, heres some quick photos, so far I have made a 25mm mdf top with oak edging then had it laminated both sides, routed the plate in using a bearing guided trim cutter and a homemade template. Then I have started knocking up a fence out of some offcuts of toilet cubicle (phenolic plastic) that I had knocking around. The fence will have sliding faces, a t slot and extraction when finished.


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## stoatyboy (30 Sep 2010)

looks nice - almost makes me wish I had bits of toilet hanging around in my garage!

Are you going to put some extraction out the back of the fence?


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## chippy1970 (30 Sep 2010)

Yeah bloody hard stuff too that phenolic you can see why they use it for night club toilets :lol: had a few offcuts in the workshop for awhile now.

In the pic there are 2 small triangle braces that are not fixed yet they will also form the extraction port all i will need to do is glue a clear bit of macrilon or something as tough across the triangles with a hole in for my vac pipe. Not decided yet weather to t-slot the backs of the sliding faces yet or just put bolts thru into slots in the sub fence, the later sounds an easier method.


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## Chems (30 Sep 2010)

chippy1970":1mnoou3w said:


> The fence will have sliding faces, a t slot and extraction when finished.



Looks really nice!


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## Einari Rystykaemmen (1 Oct 2010)

Yep, looks very nice indeed.

This makes me wonder if I need build new one to replace my pretty primitive router table (piece of mdf with shopmade insert plate, piece of hardwood as a fence and whole thing is clamped to the workmate... :lol: )


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## OPJ (1 Oct 2010)

Looking good so far, Chris. 

If you can find the right sort of cutter, I would consider routing T-slots in the backs of the sliding fences. You can then fit something as simple as a coach bolt, with a wing nut behind the fence to lock it off. It just seems like an efficient way to remove or reposition a fence, where the length of travel is not restricted by the length of the slots you've cut on the face side and, you don't have to remove any bolts, either. :wink:

An example of where you may want to remove them both is where you wish to fit a false or sacrificial fence and break-through for a clean cut.

My current table has machine screws (slotted heads) and washers with routed slots on the face, going in to T-nuts fitted to the back face of the main fence (they don't hold very well in MDF...). With my next fence, I intend to use T-slots!


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## chippy1970 (1 Oct 2010)

OPJ":29m9obpt said:


> Looking good so far, Chris.
> 
> If you can find the right sort of cutter, I would consider routing T-slots in the backs of the sliding fences. You can then fit something as simple as a coach bolt, with a wing nut behind the fence to lock it off. It just seems like an efficient way to remove or reposition a fence, where the length of travel is not restricted by the length of the slots you've cut on the face side and, you don't have to remove any bolts, either. :wink:
> 
> ...


 
My thoughts exactly Olly, I was going to mitre the sliding faces where they meet so they butt together but also I can then slide them apart put in a small piece of 12mm mdf with mitred ends then just slide the faces back together locking this sacrificial mdf piece in place. 

Just need to get the right T-slot cutter the Wealdens ones are 28mm wide seems a lot.

Then Im going to have to start thinking about the base for the table maybe something like the bulldog portable one below.


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## speed (1 Oct 2010)

how do you cut the cubicle plastic chippy?

ive fitted a few and only really had to notch out for pipes, and used a metal blade in the jigsaw, near enough 1 blade for 2 notchs, and drilling the hole for the pump flush killed my holesaw..

nice work on the table btw  are you keeping the router mounted perminently? maybe you could make a benchtop "festool cms" and a set of inserts for other tools.....


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## OPJ (1 Oct 2010)

chippy1970":36pbswcq said:


> ...I was going to mitre the sliding faces where they meet so they butt together but also I can then slide them apart put in a small piece of 12mm mdf with mitred ends then just slide the faces back together locking this sacrificial mdf piece in place.



That's an excellent idea, Chris! 8)

I mitred the meeting ends of my fences to aid dust extraction and chip clearance but, using this to lock a sacrificial insert in place - _brilliant!!_


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## chippy1970 (1 Oct 2010)

speed":3vpwqed9 said:


> how do you cut the cubicle plastic chippy?
> 
> ive fitted a few and only really had to notch out for pipes, and used a metal blade in the jigsaw, near enough 1 blade for 2 notchs, and drilling the hole for the pump flush killed my holesaw..
> 
> nice work on the table btw  are you keeping the router mounted perminently? maybe you could make a benchtop "festool cms" and a set of inserts for other tools.....


 
I use my big router for other stuff ie kitchen fitting so it wont stay in the table all the time. Regards cutting the Phenolic plastic when I fitted out some club toilets a year or so ago most of the panels were pre cut but when we did cut anything everyone on the job just used one skil saw and literally killed the blade in it. The stuff I have been cutting up here for my table I just use my Metabo table saw and so far its coped fine doesn't seem to have dulled the blade yet but i've only done a few cuts. I have also used a bearing guide 1/2" cutter on it for the curves.


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## chippy1970 (12 Oct 2010)

small update photos of what i did last week, I wont be doing much on this until my hand gets better. All screwed together now and I cut the t slot to length ready to fix as shown. Just need to make the extraction port and make the false faces for the fence which will be made from the phenolic which is sitting under the t slot in the photo.


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## Pvt_Ryan (12 Oct 2010)

Any chance of some pics of how you mount your router?

I need a router table and I do have a lot of scrap MDF.


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## chippy1970 (12 Oct 2010)

Pvt_Ryan":3iok9frp said:


> Any chance of some pics of how you mount your router?
> 
> I need a router table and I do have a lot of scrap MDF.



it just screws to the insert with 3 screws


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## Pvt_Ryan (12 Oct 2010)

cool.

Do you remove the base of the router or just plunge it all the way?


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## chippy1970 (13 Oct 2010)

anyone know if this cutter will be ok for t slotting the backs of my moveable fence faces http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... e_253.html

has anyone done similar ?


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## shim20 (13 Oct 2010)

cool, looks very good


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## chippy1970 (31 Jan 2011)

Just a few pics, a bit more progress. Ive not done much on it since last year because of my accident but now my hand is getting better and Ive had a bit of spare time I managed to do some more bits. Since the last update I have routed t tracks into the top for the fence, fixed the t track to the fence with m4 screws, made a lexan dust extract point (to be finished), made a lexan safety guard and t slotted the fence faces so they can move. All I have to do now is make some sort of base frame or cabinet and finish off the dust extraction.


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## Titus A Duxass (1 Feb 2011)

That is a nice fence.


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## Deansocial (1 Feb 2011)

regarding cutting phenolic,

It can be cut with a triple chip blade fine and a router with a tct bit.
Tct jigsaw blades are the best think to cut it with if you want to use a jigsaw but very very expensive. Next best would be the lennox bi-metal blades. I always use a router unless cutting straight line then i use the plunge saw.

Why does everyone on here call it phenolic plastic or just phenolic? I've always known it as compact laminate, that what we buy it as and we do loads of toilets in it every year.


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## Titus A Duxass (2 Feb 2011)

Deansocial":2u4i1cn7 said:


> Why does everyone on here call it phenolic plastic or just phenolic? I've always known it as compact laminate, that what we buy it as and we do loads of toilets in it every year.



Over here it's sold as High Pressure Laminate (HPL), 6mm thick sheets are available at most DIY shops who'll cut it to size.


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## Deansocial (2 Feb 2011)

HPL over here is what you get on a worktop compact laminate(altho the same composition) it 12mm thick


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## chippy1970 (2 Feb 2011)

Deansocial":2qoggs9f said:


> regarding cutting phenolic,
> 
> It can be cut with a triple chip blade fine and a router with a tct bit.
> Tct jigsaw blades are the best think to cut it with if you want to use a jigsaw but very very expensive. Next best would be the lennox bi-metal blades. I always use a router unless cutting straight line then i use the plunge saw.
> ...




Because thats what its called Phenolic plastic do a google on it. I got this stuff from a toilet fitting job we had loads of offcuts. These were off the rear panelling Im sure you will know what Im talking about Dean. We had large beech effect phenolic panels and the grey you see here was used to make the rear frames showing through as dark grey flash gaps.


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## Deansocial (2 Feb 2011)

you mean the duct sets? 

we use these http://www.cubiclesystems.co.uk/Premier/Materials.htm sold as solid grade compact laminate.

i think phenoic plastic it the same but without the decorative face maybe


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## chippy1970 (3 Feb 2011)

Deansocial":2n6dafef said:


> you mean the duct sets?



Just toilet panelling to me, to be honest I dont really do much of that stuff it was just a one off really I normally do the higher end jobs where we use for example veneered polished wall panels and marble or granite for the fit outs. That was up in Central London on huge office jobs a few years back now when I worked for a big joinery company.

Diagram below shows how "compact laminate" is made notice how it say "Phenolic"


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