# Dust Collector Remote Switch for 16A Extractor



## Sawdust=manglitter (1 Mar 2016)

Hi All, this is my first post on here so forgive me for sounding like a noob!

I have an Axminster T-2000CK-200H Cyclone Extractor in my workshop (which i'm so pleased with!!), but it is getting annoying having to go back and forth to turn the extractor on and off... yes, i am lazy! But the extractor requires a 16A socket and i can't for the life of me track down a remote control attachment for a 16A plug. 

Has anyone else managed to overcome this problem without spending a small fortune on an auto extractor thingy? I would greatly appreciate some advice. Thanks in advance


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## HOJ (1 Mar 2016)

You will not be able to use one of the standard plug in wireless remotes for this, (it uses a DOL contactor) it will need a manual hardwired remote start/stop button.

Cheap to buy and only needs a light duty 3 core cable to connect + Earth

http://www.screwfix.com/p/hylec-2-way-stop-start-push-button/46101


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## Sawdust=manglitter (1 Mar 2016)

HOJ":x8u2y0gh said:


> You will not be able to use one of the standard plug in wireless remotes for this, (it uses a DOL contactor) it will need a manual hardwired remote start/stop button.
> 
> Cheap to buy and only needs a light duty 3 core cable to connect + Earth



Thanks for the reply HOJ... so from what you said am i right in saying that because of the way my extractor switch works i wont be able to get a remote control device/switch? Which is something i feared might be the case :? 

So is my only option to hard wire a switch at each of my machines?


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## Bright-Spark (1 Mar 2016)

You do not need to wire a switch at each machine if you have a DOL starter.

Get a infrared controlled plug set, you can then wire from a plug top to the coil in the starter assuming its a 230V coil.

You can then control the coil and therefore starter by remotely switching the plug on and off.

If you do a search, Bob 9fingers did a post with a wiring diagram on, it was along time ago though.

Bright-Spark


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## Monkey Mark (1 Mar 2016)

Bright-Spark":2pjweicx said:


> You do not need to wire a switch at each machine if you have a DOL starter.
> 
> Get a infrared controlled plug set, you can then wire from a plug top to the coil in the starter assuming its a 230V coil.
> 
> ...


Once the coil energises it self latches. You woukd need a way to break the circuit that would be a normally closed switch. 

Id be interested to see how he overcame this.


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## Monkey Mark (1 Mar 2016)

If it's single phase, you could use a wireless control with a relay removing the DOL. You would lose overload protection though unless you include an overload protection unit (lower half of DOL starter).


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## Sawdust=manglitter (1 Mar 2016)

Thanks for the input guys... unfortunatly its all a little over my head/confidence level with electrics. Basic wiring i'm happy with, but tampering with components would make me a little twitchy.


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## Bright-Spark (2 Mar 2016)

This is a workable solution with a DOL but not as elegant as i recall Bob 9fingers being. The local stop start on the DOL will not work after this, control will be by the remote only

Spur a 13A single socket off your 16A machine supply in the same size cable, this will become the control supply. You can fuse down before the socket using a fused connection unit if you want, but as you are only connecting a coil this is not strictly necessary as the fuse in the outgoing plug top will limit the load on the socket and protect the control wiring.

You will need to remove any existing linking cables in the DOL to the coil, start and stop button that will latch the contractor in.

Then with a remote control socket in your new socket you can connect L and N from a plug top directly across the coil in the contractor (A1 and A2), but also connect the control circuit through the NC AUX terminals on the thermal overloads (Typically 95 and 96).

The contractor will become a remote control relay and the thermal overload protection retained.

NVR functionally will be provided as the remote control plug-in sockets loose their memory when the power goes off and do not re-energise on, although you should check this.

Finally add an local emergency stop in your control circuit on the DX to give local manual off control and a warning labeling about remote start and separate isolation of your control supply.

This will give you 
Remote on/off control.
Local emergency manual off control
Retain motor thermal overload protection
Retain NVR (but double check the remote control plug-in socket you purchase)

Bright-Spark


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## Monkey Mark (2 Mar 2016)

I'm sorry but i feel i need to question the above, just for safety. 

The remote switch would energise the coil which would then self latch. You would then have to switch the remote back off otherwise when you hit the stop the coil will get pulled straight back in as it's still energised. Unless you use a locking emergency stop, but same thing would happen when you unlock the stop. 

You can buy cheap 230v remotes that can be set to be momentary so it would energise the coil, latch the dol then de energise the coil. 

The difficult bit is finding a remote that can do NC for the stop, something im still searching for.

Edit: I've just worked out a way it could be done and probably for less than £20.
I'll have a check, a little play and reporr back. It may be of help to others.


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## Markvk (2 Mar 2016)

The machine is only 1.5kw thats no where near 16 amps! but the start up current will be high i spose.... looking at the machine this can be done fairly easily but requires some re wiring to make it work. This is how id do it:

disconnect the motor connection from the starter.
buy on of these: 
http://www.amazon.co.uk/220-240V-Vo...qid=1456923410&sr=8-1&keywords=contactor+240v
mount the above in a plastic box
connect you motor to the load side of the above contactor 
conect your 16A supply to the feed side of the above
connect a piece of 3 core (1.0mm or bigger) to A1/A2 on the contactor live to A1 N to A2
connect all your earths together with a connector
put a normal plug top (fused 3A) on the other end of the 3 core flex
plug the plugtop into a normal socket with one of those remote control switch thingys attached....
If you want an emergency stop the rob the one of the origional switch and put it in series on the 3 core suppling A1/A2

simples!

hope that helps.

Mark


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## Bright-Spark (2 Mar 2016)

Monkey mark I understand your concerns but the contractor will not self latch if the only thing connected across the coil is the supply from the plug-in socket, it will just operate as a contractor.

As I wrote the "The local stop start on the DOL will not work after this, control will be by the remote only"

All emergency stop button have mechanical latching and yes the machine will turn back on when you release the additional emergency stop if you have not turned the control circuit off using the remote. 

Bright-spark


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## Markvk (2 Mar 2016)

in my opinion, Bright spark is correct in his statement.


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## Monkey Mark (2 Mar 2016)

Markvk":103pt3w8 said:


> in my opinion, Bright spark is correct in his statement.


I agree he is, i missed that bit. But i do think there is an easier way. 

Using one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00YXN4 ... witch+220v
Piggy back main supply for power. 
Use chanel one in momentary mode across the start coil. 

Use a normally closed relay inline with the stop contacts and chanel 2 in momentary mode across the relays coil. 

Stop and start from a remote. Existing controls still work. NVR function remains. No extra supply required. Can add additional remotes for flexibility.


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## Bright-Spark (2 Mar 2016)

Monkey mark

This would work, more elegant, more flexible, ordered!

Thank you

Bright Spark


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## Monkey Mark (2 Mar 2016)

Bright-Spark":lnxbwqlp said:


> Monkey mark
> 
> This would work, more elegant, more flexible, ordered!
> 
> ...


Glad i could help. Been trying to think of a way around it for a while then today, after working on a motor swap and dol change at work, it just clicked.


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## Bright-Spark (2 Mar 2016)

Monkey Mark

Had a proper look at it now

Use channel 1 in N/O inching mode replaces momentary push on start switch
Use channel 2 in N/C inching mode replaces momentary push on stop switch

Wire channel 1 in parallel with existing start button and channel 2 in series the stop button, this will work exactly as a wired remote stop/start would.

No additional relay required.

Once again great find, thank you

Bright-Spark


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## HOJ (2 Mar 2016)

Monkey Mark 

That's a game changer, well found, and for less than £8.00, needs someone to do a schematic? I get it others may not.

Only problem I would have is losing the remote...think I will stick with my hard wired system.


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## Sawdust=manglitter (2 Mar 2016)

That sounds like an excellent solution, and a plausible one for me to be able to do myself... given some direction! As HOJ suggested, would someone be so kind as to post a schematic that a layman like me could follow and understand?

Much appreciated!!


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## Monkey Mark (2 Mar 2016)

Sawdust=manglitter":2fs0cpn4 said:


> That sounds like an excellent solution, and a plausible one for me to be able to do myself... given some direction! As HOJ suggested, would someone be so kind as to post a schematic that a layman like me could follow and understand?
> 
> Much appreciated!!


I'll knock one up for you tonight.


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## Monkey Mark (2 Mar 2016)

Bright-Spark":302ymtoq said:


> Monkey Mark
> 
> Had a proper look at it now
> 
> ...


Good shout with the inch button. 
I hadn't looked at the details as I'm on my phone; if it hasva nc contact then that's even better.


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## Bright-Spark (2 Mar 2016)

DOL wiring diagram complete.







Not as simple as I first assumed so 2 relays will be required, but this is not a show stopper.

1 No. Control Board and remote -http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A2LB1IUQW3VNM

2 No. Control Relays http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...ue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A18JZ7BLM3QCEI 

Costs £18.24

Credit goes to Monkey Mark for original idea.

Bright-Spark


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## Monkey Mark (2 Mar 2016)

Bright-Spark":1hdo4qpx said:


> DOL wiring diagram complete.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Nice schematic there Bright-Spark (which software did you use to do that?)

I think you would only need one relay. As long as the coil on the dol starter is 230v (which in the case of a single phase DX is almost guaranteed), then the remote will be able to activate it directly. There will be very little current draw so no worries about limits.
On your diagram that would be the output from channel 1 connected to terminal 3, effectively parallel with existing Start. (Keep in mind that would be switching on the Neutral line but could easily be switched to Live for safety.)

As for the stop, exactly as you have put. 
The remotes are designed mainly for lights and as such i've yet to find one that has a NC contact at 230v.

Team work, that's what I like 8)


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## Monkey Mark (2 Mar 2016)

Channel 1 - Parallel start.
Channel 2 - To relay, in series with stop.


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## Monkey Mark (2 Mar 2016)

Sawdust=manglitter":rstu1qi9 said:


> That sounds like an excellent solution, and a plausible one for me to be able to do myself... given some direction! As HOJ suggested, would someone be so kind as to post a schematic that a layman like me could follow and understand?
> 
> Much appreciated!!


Let me know if you can read these ok. If you want I can substitute the schematic for a more pictorial version i.e. remove the DOL wiring and replace with a DOL unit, which you would see in yours with appropriate extra wiring to complete.


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## Markvk (2 Mar 2016)

very good soloution, ordered one myself!


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## Sawdust=manglitter (2 Mar 2016)

Monkey Mark":230nhv4d said:


> Let me know if you can read these ok. If you want I can substitute the schematic for a more pictorial version i.e. remove the DOL wiring and replace with a DOL unit, which you would see in yours with appropriate extra wiring to complete.



Thanks both bright spark and monkey mark for the diagrams!! 

Would you mind making a more pictorial version please? I wouldn't really know what I was looking at when opening up components etc. I may need to bribe a couple of more electrically minded mates to give me a hand.

Really appreciate all the input!


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## Monkey Mark (2 Mar 2016)

I have left out all of the wiring that will already exist in a standard installation, to aid clarity, as that would not need to be altered other than the stop relay being placed in series.


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## HOJ (3 Mar 2016)

Could I ask a dumb question, I cant see how you have paralleled the start button, or am I missing something.


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## Bright-Spark (3 Mar 2016)

HOJ in Monkey Marks drawing the start button is connected across 17 and 18. The switched live feed from the controller is connected to 18 the out going side of the start button, so is effectively connected in parallel with the start button. In inching mode the controller will momentarily apply power at 18 energising the coil which will pull the contractor in. Idenical to a press on the start button.

Bright-Spark


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## Bright-Spark (3 Mar 2016)

Final update before information over load.

Additional drawing showing Standard DOL wiring before alterations 






Amended drawing showing finalised single additional relay design by Monkey Mark.






I have added colouring to the wiring in an attempt to make it easier to follow.

The control channels are the opposite way round to Mark's drawing but this make no difference in operation, only which button you press on the remote control fob for stop, start.

For Monkey Mark, all drawings done in AutoCad 2016

Bright-Spark


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## Sawdust=manglitter (19 Apr 2016)

Hi Bright-Spark, Monkey Mark & Markvk... Have any of you managed to install this solution successfully? How has it worked out for you?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Sawdust=manglitter (22 Nov 2016)

Further to previous very helpful replies, the work involved appears above my ability level! 

Would anyone with the know-how be interested in wiring up and posting me something to be able to attach to my Axminster T-2000CK-200H Cyclone Extractor under instruction? Obviously I would pay for the efforts!

Anyone interested?


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## Monkey Mark (22 Nov 2016)

Sawdust=manglitter":31fhh5v7 said:


> Further to previous very helpful replies, the work involved appears above my ability level!
> 
> Would anyone with the know-how be interested in wiring up and posting me something to be able to attach to my Axminster T-2000CK-200H Cyclone Extractor under instruction? Obviously I would pay for the efforts!
> 
> Anyone interested?


Whichever way you do it there will be some wiring involved. Can't make a plug-n-play device for this situation.


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## Sawdust=manglitter (22 Nov 2016)

Monkey Mark":2alohwq9 said:


> Whichever way you do it there will be some wiring involved. Can't make a plug-n-play device for this situation.



Ah, fair enough Mark. Its really not my forte and i can't afford to tinker and risk messing up an expensive machine! Forgice the complete ignorance, but if i were to look for someone local that would have the knowhow would i be looking for an electrical engineer... or would a normal electrician know what he's doing? Or someone different entirely!?


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## Monkey Mark (23 Nov 2016)

Sawdust=manglitter":1c0p5ct6 said:


> Monkey Mark":1c0p5ct6 said:
> 
> 
> > Whichever way you do it there will be some wiring involved. Can't make a plug-n-play device for this situation.
> ...




With the wiring diagrams that are already on previous pages any electrician should be able to do it.
If I was closer to you I would do it myself but alas I'm a little too far away.
You could order the parts and get an electrician to fit it for you which has the benefits of him being there to troubleshoot if there are any issues, or how would you feel about connecting 5 wires yourself if all labeled with instructions? 
(Not meaning to sound condescending in any way, apologies if it comes across that way).


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## Benpointer (23 Nov 2016)

I saw this thread and decided to give it a go. 

I have just ordered the remote controller and the relay from Amazon. Sadly both are coming on a slow boat from China but they should be here for Christmas. Will let you know how I get on in a month's time! 

Thanks for the great input guys - what a brilliant forum this is!

Steve


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## Sawdust=manglitter (23 Nov 2016)

Monkey Mark":6hnltkbg said:


> With the wiring diagrams that are already on previous pages any electrician should be able to do it.
> If I was closer to you I would do it myself but alas I'm a little too far away.
> You could order the parts and get an electrician to fit it for you which has the benefits of him being there to troubleshoot if there are any issues, or how would you feel about connecting 5 wires yourself if all labeled with instructions?
> (Not meaning to sound condescending in any way, apologies if it comes across that way).



Not condescending, dont worry. I am a bit of a simp when it comes to this type of stuff! Having a good look back at both yours and Bright Sparks diagrams, they are pretty damn good. I may order the components and give it a try. Plenty of photos of how it was before any tampering!! 
Thanks Mark!!


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## Monkey Mark (23 Nov 2016)

Sawdust=manglitter":3ssqtjp8 said:


> Monkey Mark":3ssqtjp8 said:
> 
> 
> > With the wiring diagrams that are already on previous pages any electrician should be able to do it.
> ...


No problem. 
I can always give you my email or phone number if you need a little help when your parts arrive and I'm sure others will be happy to help too.


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## Sawdust=manglitter (24 Nov 2016)

Thank you Mark!


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## fergusmacdonald (1 Apr 2021)

Interesting thread - thanks.

Has anyone done this successfully? I have the same dust collector and would love to wire in a remote control.


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## mindthatwhatouch (1 Apr 2021)

Yes I’ve done it.
Give me a day or two to get some details posted.


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## mindthatwhatouch (2 Apr 2021)

Hope this helps (unfortunately my drawings are not as nice as the ones in this thread) Post number 10.
Remote Wireless control


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