# Planer jig



## Digit (4 Dec 2008)

As vertigo has prevented any work with TS or surface planer for the last few days, and here I would like to extend my very great thanks to posters for their kindness, I have used the time to finally get around to a jig that I've had in mind for some time.
I have a surface planer that is somewhat older than myself, and it does a brilliant job, BUT, setting the knives is a bloody pain!
The pic below is the normal working configuration, the guard is not original, there was none when I acquired the machine.













The pic above is the machine set up to replace the knives, the two magnets automatically lift the knives to the same level as the outfeed table and the small alli block at the front has a plunger in it that locates the cutter block in exactly the same radial position for each knife to be clamped.

Roy.


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## mikec (5 Dec 2008)

Hi Digit,

I have a SIP planer that has some nicks in the blades. I either need to replace/sharpen the blades or try offsetting them to get rid of the score lines.

That looks like a very simple way to get the blades exactly aligned to the outfeed table, I'll give it a try as soon as I get some big magnets.  

Regards,

Mike C


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## Digit (5 Dec 2008)

I can get magnets at no cost from micro wave cookers, as per my pics, but can they be posted?

Roy.


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## LarryS. (5 Dec 2008)

Digit":1y81k0fw said:


> I can get magnets at no cost from micro wave cookers, as per my pics, but can they be posted?
> 
> Roy.


think there is no problem posting them but make sure they are in a parcel at least 8mm thick, this will stop them going into the sorting machines


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## Digit (5 Dec 2008)

Is that a typo Paul or do you mean that that's to ensure that they are hand sorted?

Roy.


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## wizer (5 Dec 2008)

hrm, I'm intrigued. I wonder if this will work on my P/T. Tho, I'm suprised this is the first time I have seen it done this way :-k


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## Digit (5 Dec 2008)

Couldn't work out any other way of doing it that was accurate and quick wizer. All the methods that I knew of that didn't locate the cutter block were trial and much error.
It's my lazy nature to look for the easy way! :lol: 

Roy.


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## Lord Nibbo (5 Dec 2008)

I posted this pic several years back :lol: 






On a machine with an easy adjustable take off table like the one in the pics dosn't need the sheet of paper but all the clone 260 types the table is not easily adjusted so a thin sheet of paper is easier.


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## OPJ (5 Dec 2008)

Good tip, Roy, thanks for sharing.  

Wizer, this method is best suited to stand alone surface planers. If you alter the blades on your planer thicknesser to suit the surfacing tables then this could affect whether or not they remain parallel to the thicknessing bed - which can lead to a whole world of problems when it comes to jointing boards for a table top (DAMHIKT)! :?


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## JonnyD (5 Dec 2008)

Surely the setup is the same for a Planer thicknesser as a surface planer. How are you setting your blades if you are not referencing of the outfeed table?


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## OPJ (5 Dec 2008)

With a planer thicknesser, I would use the supplied jig to set the knives in the block and then adjust the outfeed table (if necessary) to the blades, followed by the infeed side.


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## JonnyD (5 Dec 2008)

I just reference of the outfeed table and set the cutters so that it carries forward a straight edge 3mm. I cant alter the outfeed table on my P/T as its fixed in place so its the only way of setting the blades. Altering the outfeed table to suit the blades seems a lot of work to me. 

jon


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## Digit (5 Dec 2008)

I've tried that method Mi Lord but found that without some means of locating the cutter block in exactly the same position for each knife it was hit and miss. A few degrees of rotational error and the cutting was likely to be with one knife.
Hence the little gadget to locate the block.

Roy.


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## wizer (5 Dec 2008)

This all sounds very interesting. Nibbs, I like your method, I may try that. They way I currently do it is with a dial gauge fitted to a magnetic base on the outfeed table. 

Thanks


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## Lord Nibbo (5 Dec 2008)

Digit":27mup3i7 said:


> I've tried that method Mi Lord but found that without some means of locating the cutter block in exactly the same position for each knife it was hit and miss. A few degrees of rotational error and the cutting was likely to be with one knife.
> Hence the little gadget to locate the block.
> 
> Roy.



I've not thought about other makes or rather the designs but it's easy to lock the rotor on mine using mole grips on the drive pulley, If I can find time I'll take a pic.


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## Digit (5 Dec 2008)

I don't think I've explained myself very well Mi Lord.
I can lock the cutter block without difficulty. My planer is a three knife design. Assume that we use magnets and set one knife height, to set number two to precisely the same height the cutter block must be rotated exactly 120 degrees.
Not 115 or 125 degrees but exactly 120. More or less than the correct figure will automatically render the second knife at a different height to number one, similarly with number three.

Roy.


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## Gower (6 Dec 2008)

Hello Digit,
Regarding microwave magnets and post, would it be rude to enquirer in what part of Wales you reside. I wont be miffed if you sooner not say.
Cheers,
Gower


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## Digit (6 Dec 2008)

No problem mate, just north of Cardigan.

Roy.


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## Waka (8 Dec 2008)

I like both LN's and Digit's idea for setting the blades and will give both a try.

Someone mentioned a while ago that the JPT 310 manual give different methods for setting the blades depending what side of the pond you are on. If you are on the US side it recommends that the blades are set at a height that is referenced off the top of the out feed table, whereas the UK side had the little gadget that is placed on the out feed table and moved about 3 mm on rotation of the cutter block.

My question is who's right?


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## wizer (8 Dec 2008)

That 3mm block drove me bonkers! I use the feeler gauge method and set the knives a tenth of a mm above the outfeed table. Seems to work fine.


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