# How to retro fit trickle vent wooden window



## Rob_H (11 Nov 2008)

I'm told a condensation problem may be reduced by retro fitting a trickle vent in the wooden double-glazed bedroom window. How do I go about this - any ideas/tips? Thanks


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## busy builder (11 Nov 2008)

Remove the sash, route out the top rail 12mm ? fit plastic trickle vent...available at local window suppliers in various legnths.

Suggest you measure window top rail and buy vent first max 50% of rail. If no opening sash and only fixed glass window you could drill the top rail as above.


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## Rob_H (11 Nov 2008)

Hi, not a sash - normal opening window.


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## andy king (11 Nov 2008)

Hi Rob,

I'm assuming this will be in the frame, not the vent/sash? If so, you won't get a router in there, that's for sure!
In this situation, i'd drill a series of holes and chisel the waste away. You get internal and external covers for these trickle vents, so if its a bit rough, it won't show.
Ideally drilling from both sides minimises breakout, but having to climb up and down a ladder for a vent is a bit time consuming. I'd consider screwing a batten on the outside where the vent is going to be so that as you drill, the breakout is prevented, leave it there as you chisel the waste away from the inside, then remove and screw on the cover.

hope this helps.
Andy


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## matt (11 Nov 2008)

I think I'd be tempted to leave the window slightly open (if this is practical) to see if ventilation really does cure the problem.


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## joiner_sim (11 Nov 2008)

Hi,

I can't see why you would put the vent into the frame. Take the opening casement off its hinges. Drill or router out the vent in the top rail of the casement. (Get the vent first so you know what sizes to work to) But usually the size of the vent would be 13mm. If it is a long vent, do two mortices, and a haunch in the middle, to give the timber some strength. I usually cut the vent in 10mm away from the rebate.

Take a look at this: http://www.freewebs.com/simonswoodwork/image030.jpg

Simon.[/url]


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## busy builder (11 Nov 2008)

Okay, lets make this easy for you.

If you remove the opening thats nearest the top of the window, you can measure the top section in depth to see if it is possible to either route a sction out along the length (without removing so much the window is significantley weakened) or drill a series of holes (no need for them to be joined up) and then you cover them with these....as you will see they come in different sizes. If you have a fixed pane window with no openings then drill the frame as above. HTH

http://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=l&ai=B2 ... GventWin04


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## Rob_H (18 Nov 2008)

thanks


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## rafezetter (31 Jul 2013)

sorry to bump an old thread, but this has come up for a mate - is there any reason why the trickle vents are at the top instead of the bottom? all his condensation issues with mould are at the bottom of his wood frames, so surely air movement around there would be better?


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