# Framed ledged & braced door



## mrtree (17 Jan 2011)

Hi all,
I would like a little advise about making a framed ledged & braced door.
It is for a workshop, the door opening is very wide, about 1150mm. (x2100)
I am thinking 150mm for the stiles & top rail
200mm for the mid & bottom rail.

As for the brace, & this is my main question really, would you run it from the top rail corner to the bottom rail corner, obviously jointed into the mid rail, so the brace is sunning "in line" Or would you run the brace from the top rail corner to the opposite corner on the top of the mid rail & likewise from the corner under the mid rail to the opposite corner on the bottom rail...does that make sense :lol: (hammer) 

Thanks for your help

Chris


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## brianhr (17 Jan 2011)

It is important that you design the door so that the hinges are on the lower side of the braces in order that the door is held in 'compression'. See this website - 

http://www.wood-floor.co.uk/doors/ledge ... door.shtml


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## mrtree (17 Jan 2011)

brianhr":a2wyhzud said:


> It is important that you design the door so that the hinges are on the lower side of the braces in order that the door is held in 'compression'. See this website -
> 
> http://www.wood-floor.co.uk/doors/ledge ... door.shtml



Thanks for that, I think I know what you mean, i.e.....if the braces are as a "Z".....the hinges are on the left....wrong way round "Z" hinges on the right.

Any thoughts on the construction of said braces though......2 "Z"s or 1...."Z" running through the centre rail. Not actually running through but jointed into the top & bottom of the centre rail....oh....you know what I mean (hammer) 
Cheers

Chris


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## SeanG (17 Jan 2011)

Hi Chris,

I'd go for the two short braces, both from the lock stile to the hinge stile. When I made a thin door for my garage I only braced between the mid and lowered rail. Reasoning that the frame and clenched TV&G boards were pretty strong already. Tthere has been no drop in two years.

Sean


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## brianhabby (17 Jan 2011)

Not sure if this will help or even if it's correct but I have used two braces on my workshop doors. You can find a WIP here.

No one has said that I was wrong to so so.

regards

Brian


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## jeffinfrance (18 Jan 2011)

hi chris,

a framed, braced and ledged door is traditionally only framed on three sides- top, and both sides. the frame is not to help keep square, but to keep more weather out of best work. not essential by any means. in fact, if you are using "bendy" readymade t&g it makes construction more difficult as expansion will force off the shoulders of the frame. for this reason also, the braces must be set back from the stiles. remember not to go past 45 degrees for the braces.

hope this helps,

jeff


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## Steve Blackdog (18 Jan 2011)

jeffinfrance":3u7gbqku said:


> hi chris,
> 
> a framed, braced and ledged door is traditionally only framed on three sides- top, and both sides. the frame is not to help keep square, but to keep more weather out of best work. not essential by any means. in fact, if you are using "bendy" readymade t&g it makes construction more difficult as expansion will force off the shoulders of the frame. for this reason also, the braces must be set back from the stiles. remember not to go past 45 degrees for the braces.
> 
> ...



+1 on expansion. Remember the t&g boards will expand and warp the doors unless you have given plenty of room for movement. On a 100 to 125 mm [email protected] board, I'd expect up to 5mil expansion per board.

ATB
Steve


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