# Axminster CT150 Restoration



## Chems (19 Dec 2008)




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## Waka (19 Dec 2008)

Chems

That looks like a real result, always nice to get something cheap and make it into a valuable machine.

Mirror looks good as well, how did you do the leaves?


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## Chems (20 Dec 2008)

Thanks Waka, the only problem with the machine is its much to low for me at 6"3 so I need to build it up when I put it on a mobile base, don't want it to be unstable thou as It really needs to be a good bit higher. 

I drew the pattern on the computer, I then printed it out to 4 A4 sheets in segments, then stuck these together to get the full size pattern. Then from there I stuck the pattern onto sticky back plastic, a big roll of it double folded and cut the pattern with an exacto knife which took about an hour or more. Then once the brown colour was on I stuck the pattern on to each corner and spray painted the leaves in, removed the stick back plastic and it was done.


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## Waka (20 Dec 2008)

My mobile bases are made of angle iron using the Rutlands heavy duty lockable castors. This way you are able to raise the machine any height during construction.
I have to say mine are not much higher because I'm only 6'.


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## DangerousDave (21 Dec 2008)

Hi Chems,
Glad to see you got it home ok, take it there was no probs getting it in the car  It doesn't actually look too bad, bit of a clean up and it'll be right as rain. I know what you mean about the height though, I find it a bit low as well. Been thinking about raising mine on some sort of mobile base to the same height as the workbench, which would then serve as extra in feed support, but stability will def be an issue with a mobile base. I'll wait and see what solutions you come up with


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## Chems (22 Dec 2008)

Fitted in fine, wasnt to heavy at all, I can lift it about on my own just fine with all the tables and fence on. Was dead easy to detach the bottom from the top. 

Not sure what to do in regards mobile base, perhaps some sort of extended frame following the sort of shape of the tables, I think I need to add about 10 inches or so of height to make it comfortable to use. 

I think I will paint the base then re-assemble and put it aside for a month or so as I haven't got any hardwood projects on that need a planer so I will get on with my router table build.


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## OPJ (22 Dec 2008)

Good work, Chems. Looks like it's really paying off.  

You could buy a £30 mobile base from Axminster - they're very good and will easily be able to cope with the weight of this machine. But, they probably won't increase the working height by anything much more than an inch, maybe two...

I'd think carefully about this though. You've got a very good length along the beds so, if ever you had to machine any large or long lengths, ask yourself, would you really want to have to lift them any higher than where the machine is now?

Dare I say this (I certainly don't recommend it without appropriate guarding!) but, looking at your photo's again, I reckon your machine _might_ be capable of a bit rebating work... :shock: :? :wink: 

I look forward to seeing the fence all cleaned up.


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## Richard S (22 Dec 2008)

Hi Chems

I put my planer on a double thickness ply base and four 3" rubber tyred lockable castors and it is still stable enough although I wouldn't be comfortable with it any higher.

Richard


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## SammyQ (22 Dec 2008)

Chems,

What kind/what source paint are you using please? I 've got several acres of Soag/Chekko antique lathe to repaint and I'm casting around for durable, easy-to-apply, reasonably priced machinery paint. The one you used, approximates to the VERY old 'battleship' off-grey-white enamel the beast arrived in.

Sam


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## Chems (22 Dec 2008)

I used Hammarite Smooth White Metal Paint direct to rust which is what a lot of people on here have used for machines.

My old planer weighted 70kg, this one 75kg, the height of the old one was ideal, about midwaste. I won't have any problem lifting large lengths of timber been young and supple! 

Richard, I think I will do exactly that, the castors should add an extra 3 inches or so and the ply base another inch, and I may build it onto a pine frame like I did my old one which will add another inch.

OPJ, yes its coming up nicely thank you. As for rebating, one of the reviews actually said you can do rebating with it. Looks simple enough to do but the table space for doing it isn't huge stablity would be an issue. Very clean cut with the 3 knives. 

On the subject of guards, I've thrown away the one it came with and an axminster Mk2 guard arrived just saturday and will fix on with to bolts to give me proper euro guarding - it cost £28 so costing so far look like this:

£150 - Planer
£20 - Fuel Cost
£8.50 - Spray Smooth Metal Hammerite Paint 
£14.99 - Large can of Smooth White brush on Hammerite
£28.00 - New Euro Style Guard
Total = £221
Cost of New CT150 = £361 Sale Price - £415 Normal
Quite a saving!

To add to that I need some bolts, less than a few quid and the jobs a goodune. Think I will also need to buy or fasion a hood for the chippings outlet, although a box for them to just fall in would work just fine. Also the price of castors.


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## SammyQ (22 Dec 2008)

Cheers Chems; should have remembered the old Hammerite. 


Sam


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## johnjin (23 Dec 2008)

Hi Chems

I've got this same planer and made a mobile base for it. I put concrete blocks in the base to get the center of gravity down the bottom as I felt it could be pulled over very easily if you wasn't careful. I have done the same with my bandsaw which is also on a mobile base.
Just food for thought maybe.

Best wishes 

John


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## Chems (23 Dec 2008)

Thats an excellent idea. Do you get any rattling around with increased noise?


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## johnjin (24 Dec 2008)

Hi Chems

Never any rattle and the planer is very quiet as well

John


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## Benchwayze (25 Dec 2008)

Waka":3mhzxoj1 said:


> My mobile bases are made of angle iron using the Rutlands heavy duty lockable castors. This way you are able to raise the machine any height during construction.
> I have to say mine are not much higher because I'm only 6'.



I'm scratching my head for a base for my Sedgwick 12" MB. Scratcing is as far as I have got; I desperately need some meaty, iron-angle and nuts and bolts. 

The machine weighs in at 750 kgs and the castors I have are about 4" high and rated for the job. Somehow I have to design it so the castors are mostly concealed inside the machine itself, otherwise I'll have to stand on a box to use the thing! 
:ho2


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## Waka (25 Dec 2008)

John

There is a way around the height issue, when I'm allowed back in the shop I'll show you how I overcame this, it only raises the machine about 1/2" but still able to use the 4" castors.


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## Benchwayze (25 Dec 2008)

Thanks Waka.. 
I have got as far as devising a 'U' shaped 'buggie' for each pair of castors. Bolt the castors to it so they are in between the lugs that stick out from the machine!
Biggest problem is lifting the machine to fit the castor-buggies in place! I don't want to lift it by the tables. :shock: 

So far I have a piece of heavy chain and a trolley-jack!

I await your idea. it will probably be better than mine. 

Have a good holiday Waka... 

Aw heck'''' I smell sausages, bacon and turkey a cookin'.. I am salivating! 
See you later! 

:ho2


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## Waka (25 Dec 2008)

John

This is the way I overcame the problem, my heaviest machine is 350kg and there is no flexing what so ever, all the joints have been welded.
The angle iron I used was 1/8th x 1 1/4, you may need something a little more substantial considering the weight of your machine.


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## Benchwayze (25 Dec 2008)

Thanks a million Waka. 

The 'red-castors' carriage was more or less the way I was thinking. (I can't weld mind so I was going to fabricate with bolts and 'nyloc' nuts.)

I have two lugs that stick out about 4 inches, intended to bolt the machine to a floor. Not made to be rolled around and I suppose the MB has no place in a single-car garage. However, I had the cash for the machine and Sedgwick are among the best! 

Anyhow, I can see now how I can solve the problem probably without using any lifting gear! 

Thanks again Waka and have a good Holiday, with your loved ones around you. :ho2


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## Chems (25 Dec 2008)




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## JonnyD (26 Dec 2008)

Benchwayze":2lj6kgen said:


> The machine weighs in at 750 kgs



Are you sure that is right my sedgwick MB weighs in at 390KG which only just over half the weight of yours.

jon


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## wizer (26 Dec 2008)

Waka":1tpfv2vb said:


>




Forgive my engineering ignorance. But do welds really hold that much weight? i.e welding is literally like adding metal, rather than a sort of glue to hold things together.


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## Benchwayze (26 Dec 2008)

JonnyD":3m0m6tom said:


> Benchwayze":3m0m6tom said:
> 
> 
> > The machine weighs in at 750 kgs
> ...



 One day I might get to grips with 1kg being equal to 2.2llbs.  
On the other hand, at 70 yrs of age, why should I worry, until it matters. Like now!  

You are correct Jon. My machine is about 390kgs. Still a bit Bl**dy heavy to roll around on three pieces of 1" dowel though, so I must get this lifting problem solved. (Lifting it onto the undercarriage that is!) 

I think I'll hire an engine hoist from VHS tool hire.


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## johnjin (26 Dec 2008)

Hi Wizer
Welding properly done is at least as strong as the steel it is welded to.
When welding the heat melts the steel that you are welding to creating a liquid pool that you then add to with the welding wire. This pool should be deep enough to nearly penetrate the steel. I am not a welder but have done a course and I am sure people more skilled in this subject could answer your question better.
HTH

Best wishes

John


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## jhwbigley (26 Dec 2008)

Iv done a bit of welding, mainly arc welding.





Iv also made myself a mobile base for my TS 





basically as john says welding joins material together by the process of melting the parent metal and allowing it to fuse together as it solidifies.

Electric arc welding makes use of a flux coated filler rod that acts as an electrode. A low voltage, high electrical current is struck between the electrode rod and the workpiece. The heat produced by the resulting electric arc melts both the rod and the material to be joined. The rod acts as a filler for the joint and so is comsumed in the welding process. 

jhb


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## wizer (27 Dec 2008)

Well now I know. Thanks very much.


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## white_sw (29 Dec 2008)

May I ask where you purchased the "£28.00 - New Euro Style Guard " from ? I ask because I picked one of these up earlier in the year
for an absolute bargin of £50 :lol: but it is missing the guard. Appart from that it is in very good nick indeed.....


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## Chems (29 Dec 2008)

Axminster of course, they had 8 in stock, code was NTG. Arrived a few days later. Can't beat Axminster, got a new Jet air filtration unit for christmas, control unit is broken, 5 min phone call and a new one is on the way.


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## Ironballs (29 Dec 2008)

I recall seeing an episode of a car is born where they showed that half an inch of weld would hold half or one ton of weight. Can't remember which, but you get the general idea


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## wizer (29 Dec 2008)

Welding is yet another skill i'd love to learn. I'm saving metalworking for my 40's


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## Ironballs (29 Dec 2008)

Built my own bike frame on a course this year, learnt brazing and fillet brazing. Loved every minute


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## Chems (30 Dec 2008)

My thread has been totally hijacked by welding! Inless your offering to weld me a mobile base I hence forth ban welding talk!

Kidding of course, but my mobile base will be wood made. It does get your thinking thou, once you move into serious machine territory, star-rights and wadkins you really do need some strong bases.


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## Ironballs (30 Dec 2008)

I'd be tempted to find a local welder who could do a base for you, very strong and a much smaller construction than a wood one would be


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## Chems (30 Dec 2008)

There is no need for a metal base at a mere 75kg, I can lift the thing around on my own. A quick ply base will do for this boy.


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## wizer (30 Dec 2008)

Chems":27vahgxh said:


> There is no need for a metal base at a mere 75kg, I can lift the thing around on my own. A quick ply base will do for this boy.



I hope you don't regret saying that in a few years when you've been in bed for 2 weeks with a crippling back condition.

I said things like that three years ago when, even tho I'd had a back problem already for a few years, I dug out 6 inches of rubble and rocks from my garden and installed 3k of hardwood decking on my own. Then the year after did it all again when installing a patio at the other end of the garden.

Take care of your back. It's no fun being a cripple


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## OPJ (30 Dec 2008)

Chems, you really should get yourself some kind of wheel kit if you do plan on moving it around. How are you lifting it? You should *NEVER* lift a planer by its tables/beds. Put a straightedge across the whole thing after doing so and you'll see just why...! :?


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## 9fingers (31 Dec 2008)

Chems, 

I have the Jet version of this machine and the 8" model. The whole thing is very similar but does not have the handwheels that yours uses for table adjustment.

I'm intrigued by the mechanism that it must have to turn a rotating handle into a linear motion at right angle to the axis of rotation with lots of mechanical advantage. I presume it cant be a simple rack and pinion as it would be too stiff to turn and not be self locking.

The jet has adjusters with their axis of rotation in line with the axis of table movement with a worm gear followed by rack & pinion
Any chance of a description and or photo?

TIA

Bob


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## wizer (31 Dec 2008)

Off Topic:
But Jet and Axminster machinery MUST be coming from the same factory and the same designers? Mustn't they?


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## Chems (31 Dec 2008)

9fingers":2tnyojly said:


> Chems,
> 
> I have the Jet version of this machine and the 8" model. The whole thing is very similar but does not have the handwheels that yours uses for table adjustment.
> 
> ...



I'm not sure if I followed all that, but the tables don't lock, they are sturdy enough that they don't need to be locked but on the other side of the chrome handles is a small plastic knob which you can tighten to lock the tables. Also a grub screw to increase the friction of the tables movement on the ends, this can also lock off the table, I've locked off the outfeed table on this one. 

I think this one will show the movement best:





There is a rack and pinon in there and the left to right movement is used to on a pivot to translate this into the up and down motion you get when you wind the handles. Its a shame I didnt get more pictures as I had it broken down into all the parts, it was easy enough to take apart but putting the pivots back in for the tables was a real pain. Its very sturdy in its construction and I've been lifting it about by the sort of base section so no harm to the tables. You'd have to have a fairly wide grip to be able to lift 75kg via the tables! I can just reach over to the other side of the main block and one hand on the other side and pick it up. Its on the base at the moment but its coming off to have the base painted and then it will be back on for the final time. Just requires that base painting and the fence and other table polished up and its all systems go.


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## 9fingers (31 Dec 2008)

wizer":3pdqqhq8 said:


> Off Topic:
> But Jet and Axminster machinery MUST be coming from the same factory and the same designers? Mustn't they?



Well if they were the same I would not be asking the question??

The chaiwanese machinery industry works like this.

A basic design is undertaken and casting patterns are made.
Several foundries make rough castings to this design 
Many machine shops take these castings and make badge engineered machines from them with minor differences.

This is how the
axminster/charnwood/jet/grizzly/warco/chester/myford/SIP/draper/etc etc brands sell marginally different machines with different accuracy, different degrees of support with widely varying prices and quality.

I learned this from a chap whose job it was to visit the foundries and machine shops to assess the quality on behalf of the uk brands.
When Myford wanted to offer milling machines, they applied strict quality controls to their suppliers and imported machines that they inspected before selling on. I have one of these and it is very good indeed. After a few years their rejection/re-work rate got too high and they dropped some on the machines from their range.
I suspect that Axminster and Jet impose high standards on their suppliers and hence the (general) high quality of products we see from those brands but with minor details changes such as on the planers.

regards

Bob


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## 9fingers (31 Dec 2008)

Hi Chems,

Sorry I my question was not clear.

Here are pics of the Axminster and the jet models. You can see the absence of the handwheels on the jet but the adjusters are not clear but they are under the tables not off to the side as the Axminster ones seem to be.
The infeed adjuster is just visible on the right and can be turned for fine control and angled up & down for coarse adjustment. The outfeed is not visible but is a rotate only knob under the table.

Jet 54a






Ax CT150






Hope this might clarify my query and illustrate to Tom that not all jointer are born equal!

Regards

Bob


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## Chems (1 Jan 2009)

They are very similar. I don't know if my reply made any sense. I could draw quite a good picture of how it works if that would help? The casting look different in some details but the overall shapes are almost identical. You could defiantly use the same system on the Axminster one with the handle type on the jet, as basically the axminster one just converts the wheel turn into a side ways motion. Seems the jet model has cut out the middle man.


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## wizer (1 Jan 2009)

Indeed I was aware of minor differences, it's just those two specific companies seem be producing very similar products and it just says to me that they are using the same manufacturer at different quality levels.

But as said above it's easy enough to copy a design, especially in the land of the dragon.


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## 9fingers (1 Jan 2009)

Chems":3dy49nbi said:


> They are very similar. I don't know if my reply made any sense. I could draw quite a good picture of how it works if that would help? The casting look different in some details but the overall shapes are almost identical. You could defiantly use the same system on the Axminster one with the handle type on the jet, as basically the axminster one just converts the wheel turn into a side ways motion. Seems the jet model has cut out the middle man.



Hi Chems,

I think I have worked out what is going on in the CT150 from a combination of your pics/posts and looking at the online manual enough to satisfy my curiosity. I'm one of those who likes to know how things work.
I tend to use this dilbert link to explain my affliction to others.
Yes, i am an engineer!
http://www.flixxy.com/dilbert-the-knack.htm

Bob


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## DaveL (1 Jan 2009)

9fingers":d6r7rsjp said:


> I tend to use this dilbert link to explain my affliction to others.
> Yes, i am an engineer!
> http://www.flixxy.com/dilbert-the-knack.htm


Er that sums me up as well. :roll: 8)


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## Chems (1 Jan 2009)

lol, its funny I know people who are the opposite and everything they touch breaks.


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## Chems (28 Feb 2009)

Finally finished it all off heres an end picture:


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## jhwbigley (28 Feb 2009)

look even better than it proberly did when it left the factory! 

good work! =D> 

John


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## OPJ (1 Mar 2009)

Looks almost like a new machine; very nicely done!


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## Lord Nibbo (1 Mar 2009)

It looks like you done a great job =D> but you really need not have painted the rebate slot :lol:


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## Chems (1 Mar 2009)

Thanks to all, I did mean to sand that off actually! But when I looked on the Axminster site theirs is painted the same:


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