# Arch top driveway gates



## francism (21 Mar 2009)

Hi Folks
can anyone advise on design/making a pair of archtop drive way gates? In particular is the curved top cut on a bandsaw or do makers steambend the wood?
Thanks


----------



## mailee (21 Mar 2009)

If the curve isn't too tight I would cut them on the bandsaw. I make these out of 2x4 or 2x6 timber. (too thick for steam bending on edge) If you make a frame of top, bottom and middle rails held together with M&T joints, then the inside of the frame can be rebated to accept T&G boards. (If this is the style of gate you want of course) Pin the T&G boards in and then fit a thin moulding around the edge to hold them in. HTH. :wink:


----------



## OPJ (22 Mar 2009)

Welcome to the forum.  

In industry, curved rails would probably be done against the ring fence on a spindle moulder using a plywood template, fixed on top of the rail (yes, most of the waste would've first been removed on a bandsaw).

If you're working with ex 2" timber (45mm finish?), you should be able to do something similar with a router - make an MDF template of the finish size, screw it to the 'blank', rough out the cut and finish with a bearing-guided router cutter. As you're probably only making these rails, you could also clean them up with a spokeshave.


----------



## francism (22 Mar 2009)

Folks many thanks for your valuable advice. 

One question, on most of the gates that I have seen, the T&G infill must have some endgrain that butts against the rounded top. I understand that part of the boards would be rebated into the top, however the grain butted up against the top is going to absorb rain? Is this a problem or have I got this wrong in my head?

Thanks in anticipation
FrancisM


----------



## OPJ (23 Mar 2009)

People generally tend to put a small chamfer on both ends of the T&G boards, which should help the rain to run off at the top. As long as they're scribed to fit in the curved rebate well enough though (no large gaps! ), you shouldn't have anything to worry about.

If you are worried then, you could always make the rebates slightly deeper than the board thickness. Don't forget that the thickness of your boards will affect the thickness of your bottom and mid rails.


----------



## JonnyD (23 Mar 2009)

I use a end grain sealer on the end grain of boards like this either from morrells woodfinishes or sikkens. It will stop the endgrain from absorbing excessive moisture. I would also do as OPJ suggests and ensure a tight fit at the top and chamfer each part. I usually leave about 1.5mm gap between each board as well to allow for seasonal movement. If the boarding is quite wide I will allow a bit more. If you are staining it is also a good idea to stain the tongues before you fit the boards together so if there is any shrinkage it doesnt show as a white line.

Jon


----------



## francism (24 Mar 2009)

Gentlemen, many thanks for your good advice

Regards

francism


----------

