# Sorry...another kitchen build. 99% finished.



## mahomo59 (1 Jun 2016)

Another kitchen build folks. F&B Pigeon colour matched in Morrells WB lacquer sprayed with one hand coat brushed after laid down. On spraying... I was getting a lot of over spray in the shop even with the spray booth because I was having to crank the gun right up! So all the fresh sprayed stuff felt dusty and not good to the touch. I got some acetone from Morrells and gave the gun a deep clean and wow, what a difference in everything. Hardly have the gun open, very little over spray as way more controlled, even fan pattern, hardly using any lacquer (not even 5l yet and I've finished spraying) lovely feel to the pieces. Enjoying spraying again now. 

Here are the plans of the proposed kitchen. Few things have changed, no bookcase on BB run. Free standing DW & WM as customer wasn't happy of energy output of integrated ones. 









Inset doors on Blum, maple dovetail drawer boxes, Birchply carcasses already lacquered and all pieces cut via Avonplywood £1400 including. 18mm backs as all my kitchens are. Poplar doors and FF 9mm panel. Worktops are going to be Iroko from worktop express. Magic style shelving in the blind corners. 

Normally screw through FF, but had a few on show on the ends etc and didn't want to fill or pocket hole. Saw various threads on here where guys use dominoes so what with new Bessey clamps I gave that ago  I very much liked it. Knocked up a quick jig just to position domino. 

















Before I knew it, had all the face frames knocked up. 

Left in clamps for an hour or so, titebond 2 as it was offer at axi a while ago. I like it. 





Oven housing





From trawling through here I thought I would do this kitchen differently. FF and doors made first along with panels and everything else that had to be sprayed. Left the ply stacked up. Much better this way as the workshop doesn't have carcasses hanging about. Drawer boxes also done before assembly. 

Just starting the assembling now in my third week, LOTs of distractions the first two weeks. 

Sink cab went together lovely. Phew!!! Rear panel in two bits held on with 15mm dia magnets 6kg pull. Shelf holes with Festools LR32. 





Ledgers are pocket holed from top so I can see where screws are if I have to cut out for sink. 





Face frame pocket holed on. 










Should get more done tomorrow and I'll do my best to update. 

Fitting 6th June.


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## mikefab (2 Jun 2016)

Great work! Really nice level of detail in your description and photos - I will enjoy following this.

Mike


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## mahomo59 (2 Jun 2016)

Here we go Mike.... 

Magic corner type scenario made up. Peka fluid 2 from ldlonline, and it's awesome! £160, really strong, easy to install, great adjustment, lovely colour and anti slip shelves that are adjustable. Going into a blind corner so installed panel via pocket hole to prevent stuff falling out. 





Both shelves come fully out and are independent of the door. Stuck an adjustable leg under post just to help weight transfer, although I like there is no need. Pack of four £1.60... 









Wrapped up ready for transport. 





Started fitting doors up with hinges etc. Little masking tape in the hole works a treat to protect writing of which door it is. 





Random picture...of one of my favourite tools. Kreg foreman! So quick, zero dust doesn't get much better for small workshop. 



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Doors fit  

[URL=http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/mahomo/media/E10A4EDE-A628-48BB-8048-195A81F2FB3D.jpg.html]



Maple drawer box ready to be installed tomorrow.





Cheers

James


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## deema (2 Jun 2016)

Lovely work and lovely to see, keep it coming


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## memzey (2 Jun 2016)

Half blind dovetails at the front and back - very posh!


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## Beau (2 Jun 2016)

Very smart =D>


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## chippy1970 (2 Jun 2016)

James,

Those peka fluids look exactly the same as the le mans ones all the kitchen shops do.

Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk


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## Wuffles (2 Jun 2016)

chippy1970":3ozopwku said:


> James,
> 
> Those peka fluids look exactly the same as the le mans ones all the kitchen shops do.
> 
> Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk



Kidney pull-outs  

Not like a Bulgarian strip club either.


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## mahomo59 (2 Jun 2016)

Yes they must be. Le Mans on instructions... Never took any notice, haven't been in a kitchen shops for years. I do like them nonetheless and they're chosen by customer. Are they bad?


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## chippy1970 (2 Jun 2016)

mahomo59":1sk8r68e said:


> Yes they must be. Le Mans on instructions... Never took any notice, haven't been in a kitchen shops for years. I do like them nonetheless and they're chosen by customer. Are they bad?


They're good value compared to real magic corners

Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk


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## Chunky Monkey (3 Jun 2016)

James,

Thanks for posting your kitchen builds, I find them very informative and give me confidence to attempt my own kitchen build.

Could I put in a request for a future post/pics to show how you deal with the gap at the rear of the face frame at floor level and the kick board. I hope that makes sense.

Thanks

Jon


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## mahomo59 (3 Jun 2016)

Yes totally makes sense. Ill detail it once on install. Thank you


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## mahomo59 (4 Jun 2016)

Must remember to use camera more... Any way did take a few shots as I went.  

Yes you can make your own, you can measure. But for a tenner. 





Workshop filling up. 





Grooves done in the sides and notched back panel ready for the wall cabinets. 





Screwed into the top and base with a void left for cable runs for the under cabinet lighting. All wall cabinets have an 'under cloak' of 4mm mdf lacquered pinned underneath. 





Inside





Face frame on, deeper at the base to act as light pelmet





LR 32 action!


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## mahomo59 (4 Jun 2016)

.


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## mahomo59 (5 Jun 2016)

Getting down to the wire now! Fitting tomorrow...or at least dropping furniture off and setting out. Pushed for time for various reasons, main one is me and my family on holiday to Portugal Saturday.

Sunday morning shenanigans... 

Drawer box cabinets and larder. 

















Have another joiner with me from tomorrow so will assemble taller cabs in the morning and then get them in the van. 1.5 miles from the workshop.


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## mahomo59 (5 Jun 2016)

Struggling to edit title!


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## mahomo59 (7 Jun 2016)

Jon aka chunky monkey - asked how I do the plinth detail/end post/panel. 

Face frames are 36mm wide. 
Carcass 18mm birch.
Face frame flush with inside of cabinet, dislike over hang in the inside. This leaves 18mm over hand on outside, so all end panels are 18mm be it shaker or slab. Only use slab panel where not seen DW WM gaps etc. 

Rear of face frame. 





Panel on first, so it's flush with the outer face frame and leaves an 18mm return on plinth side. 





Then I cut 45mm of plinth and glue to rear of face frame and panel, creating a flush inside face frame, ready to except plinth as normal. Ignore breakout at rear it gets covered, like wise gap to flood of leg. 





18mm shaker panel on in same detail. This is rear and side of breakfast bar. 






Sorry forgot to get picture of plinth going into it. But it clips on same way and butts up.


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## Chunky Monkey (7 Jun 2016)

Thanks James, 

i envisaged thats how it would be done, but I've never seen it detailed before.

Thanks again 
Jon


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## mahomo59 (9 Jun 2016)

Some 'L' brackets securing cabinets to the wall, Cornice will cover this. Birch on the left gets clad in sprayed 4mm mdf, that will be flush with FF. 





Not loads of scribing on this install. 









Double stacked pull out is customers idea she found on Pinterest, I like it. 





Securing cooker hood, screwed to its neighbours and plugged to wall





4mm of sprayed mdf as under cloak to colour match cabs and hide service void at the back. Put a drawer wire in for sparks to get under cab lighting in









Be almost finished today which would make it a three day install less delivery...which was pretty much most of Tuesday to. Monday was in the shop finishing bits and bobs.


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## mahomo59 (12 Jun 2016)

Pretty much finished, up stands to fix on and a little touching up here and there. Happy with the execution, found it a lot easier having planed it out using sketch up rather than in my head! 





























Worktops are Iroko and extended out via domino and using Iroko plinth from worktop express, staves are the same size 









Wish I'd built maple box to hang bin 





Customers design. 









Sat in Bristol airport right now...delayed waiting to go on holiday with my family to Portugal. Well earned holiday. Another kitchen build starting July.


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## MattRoberts (12 Jun 2016)

Awesome work mate. Really professional build and install - I'm jealous!


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## mahomo59 (12 Jun 2016)

Can someone edit the title to add finished. It won't stay when I do it.


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## Woodmonkey (12 Jun 2016)

Great work, you make it look easy! Enjoy your holiday. If you go to edit your first post and edit the title there it should stick.


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## vanitycat (15 Jun 2016)

Nice work fella. The finish looks really good. It has inspired me to persevere with a kitchen. After I have finished my futon build. Just have a couple of questions

1. Couldn't see how you attached the drawer fronts to the drawers. Was it just titebond? The way my fiancé slams cupboards I wander if glue is enough.
2. Also what primer did you use? Morrells? 
3. I wouldn't mind taking a stab at lacquering process my self. Is there any type of gravity fed sprayer that you can recommend? 

Alan


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## mahomo59 (15 Jun 2016)

Please go for it Alan it will make you feel very proud and accomplished. 

1. Drawer fronts are screwed through the drawer boxes into the drawer panel. Four screws into the Stiles. Set the drawer on the runners, pre drill holes in drawer box front and place on drawer front with your margins set, lean over and into cabinet and screw. No glue required. 
2. I'm a sucker for Morrells and always use their primer, just think it's best as they work well together. Neither primer or lacquer require thinning. 
3. I use their own system ST1 three stage HVLP system, great set up. There are other branded versions of it out there, I believe Dulux do it as well. I spray primer, fill where required and sand. Primer again and two top coats. Both sides of doors etc. End panels and the like, just the face. 

GO FOR IT!!!


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## vanitycat (16 Jun 2016)

Thanks fella . For the inside of the cabinets I presume you used clear lacquer?


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## mahomo59 (16 Jun 2016)

Supplied lacquered, both sides!!!


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## vanitycat (19 Jun 2016)

Sorry another question. What did you use to ensure the inset doors remain flush with the FF when closed I.e how did you prevent the door from going inwards.


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## mahomo59 (19 Jun 2016)

I normally use these http://www.hafele.co.uk/shop/Products.a ... g_id=64560 but couldn't as doors were 2mm thinner as order was messed up. These tuck up in corner behind the faceframe and are hardly seen. The set back is a rubber bumper thickness. 
On this kitchen I used these http://www.hafele.co.uk/shop/Products.a ... g_id=11722 and packed out with a piece of ply to clear/flush them up with FF and used slotted hole initially to line it up. 

Hope this helps 

James


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## chippy1970 (19 Jun 2016)

Great job as usual James.

Shame about the Non integrated appliances they spoil the look a bit.

I like the under cloak detail, a lot of so called high end kitchen company's wouldn't do that. They leave unfinished so people have something ugly to look at whilst sat down in the kitchen lol.

What do you keep in your 3 drawer sortainer ? I picked one up the other week thinking it would come in handy but haven't got round to filling it yet.

Enjoy your hols

Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk


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## mahomo59 (19 Jun 2016)

Cheers Chris

Yes I know, cost was nothing in it with two extra doors. They couldn't find decent energy rated integrated ones without spending a fortune. Love the under cloaks, simple, easy and inexpensive 

Had the 3 drawer for about 6 months or so and under use it!!! Take it on every job, by it's not fully full, so far...pocket hole screws, screws, red brown plugs, plastic packers, sanding pad, pencils/markers, space plugs and more room to fill


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## No skills (19 Jun 2016)

That's a nice looking kitchen  
Appliance manufacturers are shooting themselves in the foot by charging more for built in stuff.

What size go do you leave between face frame and door?


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## chippy1970 (19 Jun 2016)

mahomo59":52nxrgtb said:


> Cheers Chris
> 
> Yes I know, cost was nothing in it with two extra doors. They couldn't find decent energy rated integrated ones without spending a fortune. Love the under cloaks, simple, easy and inexpensive
> 
> Had the 3 drawer for about 6 months or so and under use it!!! Take it on every job, by it's not fully full, so far...pocket hole screws, screws, red brown plugs, plastic packers, sanding pad, pencils/markers, space plugs and more room to fill


Sounds like what I will be sticking in mine. I did think of whacking all my pin guns in it. But some sort of fitting kit will make sense.

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## mahomo59 (21 Jun 2016)

No skills":20myv2b0 said:


> That's a nice looking kitchen
> Appliance manufacturers are shooting themselves in the foot by charging more for built in stuff.
> 
> What size go do you leave between face frame and door?




Shoot the doors into face frame using black plastic packer from the multi coloured pack of different sizes.


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## scubadoo (19 Jul 2016)

Great job James, really top notch!

Can I ask where you got the pre-lacquered maple from for the boxes? I'm trying to decide between doing that or using Blum Tandembox. Still need to find a reasonable price on Blum drawers.

Oh, and thanks for the heads up about the lacquered birch ply at Avon Plywood. I'm just starting my first kitchen build, doing the carcasses as we speak.

Cheers
Dave


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## mahomo59 (19 Jul 2016)

I bought the Maple from Robbins PAR and made on Leigh jg, then sprayed. 

Pre lacquered from Avonplywood nice kit


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## scholar (19 Jul 2016)

Hi

A very nice job and thanks for all the piccies.

I have a couple of questions if you don't mind:

- you mention that your painting system is two coats of primer and two topcoats, of which the final one is handpainted. How do you find using the Morrells paint for hand painting? (It seems very thin for brushing). Presumably this is applied after installation?

- what sheen level is the Morrells topcoat you have used? (I think the minimum used to be 20% which I find a bit too glossy, but they now seem to do 10% I think.

- Finally what is the bin system you have installed?

(OK, three or four questions!)


Cheers


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## mahomo59 (19 Jul 2016)

Hello...

Brush coat is applied on first top coat. Spray with gun and then brush while wet, leave to dry and spray final coat. 20% is what I use. Don't brush internals (backs of door) 
Morrells if I remember go down to 0 if not 0 then definitely 10. 
Bin unit is from LDLONLINE, based on Blum system. Next one I do will be in a regular drawer box, with no base and ledgers at the top spaced to carry bins. 

Hope this helps 

James


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## scholar (19 Jul 2016)

mahomo59":3jjfhaeo said:


> Hello...
> 
> Brush coat is applied on first top coat. Spray with gun and then brush while wet, leave to dry and spray final coat. 20% is what I use. Don't brush internals (backs of door)
> Morrells if I remember go down to 0 if not 0 then definitely 10.



That's very interesting and helpful James - thanks.

I am sure that the brush coat adds depth to the finished look of the colour - I will try your technique some time.

Cheers


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## scubadoo (20 Jul 2016)

mahomo59":1f8xi93r said:


>



James, in this photo, is the plinth foot just on the base panel or is it positioned up to the edge of the vertical side panel? Hope that makes sense, I'm just wondering if the side panel needs supporting by the foot? I guess in this case the face frame supports it as well but I'm doing a kitchen without face frames.

Thanks again for posting the thread.

Dave


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## mahomo59 (20 Jul 2016)

Base of foot is about 3mm (done by eye) in from the edge of the side, supporting side and base.


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## scubadoo (23 Jul 2016)

Thanks James!


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