# Workshop Security



## arch (10 Apr 2007)

Hi All,

Reading through the workshop forums its is great to see people bulding some great workshops.
It is also good to see knowledge being shared so I would like to offer some help if I can.
My Day job lies in the security system market (Alarms CCtv etc) it is amazng that so many people spend so much money on great tools and machines and protect it with a padlock or at best a 5 lever chubb lock or even worse a DIY Shed - Alarm system!! (You dont buy DIY tools to put in your workshop) 
A few years back at a tool show I approached one of the Woodworking magazine stands and offered to help with a proper article on Shop Security and how to do it I left some contact details but they never called, There was just an attempt at how to protect your shop.
The funny thing is you can get decent alarm system for less than the price of a decent 6" Joiner I am talking about a system that will text you if it activates and potentially deafen a would be burglar.
It goes as far as you want to spend really 
If anyone is interested in what to get and where to go etc etc add some threads to this topic, if not thanks for reading and happy workshop building.

Regards

Arch


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## The Welsh Workshop (10 Apr 2007)

Hi Arch

You have a valid point there. I started off with a double garage full of woodworking machinery costing several thousands. All I had was a standard door with 5 lever lock and 2 double garage doors with standard locks. One tip I can share is to unhook the mechanism on the back of the garage doors so that they cannot be opened from outside. *** note *** This will only be useful if you have another means of entering the garage like I did. Ha! Ha!

Cheers for now

Matt.


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## Mike.C (11 Apr 2007)

Hi Arch, Welcome to the forum.

You are so right. At one time or another we are all guilty of this sort of thing. Pay a few thousand pounds on a car ICE system and forget about a decent alarm. Spend thousands on your home hifi, tv, dvd, fitted kitchen, hardwood flooring, etc etc etc, and don't even fit a smoke detecter or forget about changing the battery.



> Arch,
> 
> and protect it with a padlock or at best a 5 lever chubb lock



I know what you are saying, but we should not be put off fitting a 5 lever lock, should we, because the insurance companies recommend them?
I mean they are a good place to start just as long as we add other means of protection too, is this right?

I know its best to have a full blown alarm system and cctv cameras, but if after blowing all your hard earned cash on filling your workshop you cannot afford one at the moment, something like the "The Alarm Caller" (link) is a fairly cheap way to protect your toys.
You can place one of these in a corner of your workshop and if the scum break in it will do one of two things:
(1) Sound a 105db siren and phone one of 5 numbers and continue phoning these numbers until it gets an answer, or

(2) Don't sound the siren but still dial the the phone numbers. The advantage of this second one is, the ars-e hole does not know he's tripped the alarm and will hopefully be loading you gear into his van when you hit him over the head or the police arrive.

You could also add a couple of cheap cctv cameras to the above and connect them to a tv and vhs machine in the house so that you have some lovely pictures of the thief when he goes to court.
One thing you have to watch here though is the real cheap ones do not have infa red censors and are no good in the dark, so you need to get infa red ones or security lights to light the area around the camera up.

What do you think Arch, would this very basic protection work until the person could afford a better system? Or would they be better off getting a good alarm and forget about one of the tools/machines until they can afford it?

I personally have a couple of good cctv camera's (hooked up to a vhs recorder), security lights, an alarm system, chub locks on all doors, and 3 padlocks on each door, and last but NOT least, a very very potty "Rottie"

Arch I am sure we would all welcome any tips you can give us to keep the scum out.

Cheers

Mike


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## Adam (11 Apr 2007)

arch":1qatscr9 said:


> My Day job lies in the security system market (Alarms CCtv etc) it is amazng that so many people spend so much money on great tools and machines and protect it with a padlock or at best a 5 lever chubb lock or even worse a DIY Shed - Alarm system!! (You dont buy DIY tools to put in your workshop)



No, but I bet you average thief nicks the power tools not expensive hand tools, nor your large stationary tools. 

In fact, I'm planning to protect my workshop with both a 5 lever mortice lock, and two padlocks (not the cheapy ones), on large cast clasps - not these thin ones and the hinges are gate type (top and bottom fixings so you can't lift it off), and a secured with coachbolts onto penny washers. The windows will be double glazed with steel bars behind, and are at at 1.8m high, so its not so easy to get in and out even if they do smash a window. Its also internally boarded so even if they rip the shiplap off, its still a right pain to get in. The door will be made of 18mm WBP ply, with a 2 x 3" frame internally to add some rigidity. For me, I want to have sufficient robustness to defeat someone turning up with a crowbar - or at the minimum seriously delay them.

I've got house contents that covers it (Direct Line), and have a special note in my schedule confirming I have professional tools for domestic use. I've also got one of those "silent" caller jobbies in the link above - as I don't work too far from home, and have also laid a "proper" alarm cable and have bought an alarm? Sound reasonable?

Adam


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## Paul.J (11 Apr 2007)

I used one of those battery operated alarms once,with the sensors on the doors.Kept going off all through the night once,and that was the end of that idea. :roll: 
Still got broke into once though with the usual locks,but they just took me fishing tackle  which had more sentimental value really,even though it was expensive Carp gear.
Paul.J.


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## mailee (11 Apr 2007)

Now it is funny you should mention this topic Arch as I have a sneaky feeling one or two of the woodworking mags are going to run with this in the next month or so. I have been asked what my views on workshop protection are. I myself have a good alarm system that does call my mobile if it should be activated. I had a burglery once and lost a lot of tools and since then have been very vigilant on this area. My insurance covers most of the things in my shop but it is the hassle of replacing them and loss of earnings/hobby. My alarm system was cheap as I have a friend who makes them but what price security? :wink:


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## arch (11 Apr 2007)

Wow,
I didn't think that this would get so many threads so quickly.
Firstly I mean no disrespect to the 5 lever chubb lock i think that my quote came out the wrong way and I agree any kind of alarm or lock is better than none.
I see all of your points here are a few myths/beliefs about alarms etc and the truths to start off.


*Myth 1.*Putting a dummy Bellbox up does not deter thieves it makes them think that there is something worth taking 
*Truth*Putting a dummy bellbox up is better than no bellbox, thieves want the easy life why try and see if it is a dummy when next door doesn't have one at all ??

*Myth 2*Fitting Security lighting will only aid thieves by giving them light to work in.
*Truth*Burglars don't like noise or light light makes them visible 

These are the 2 most popular comments that you will hear, trust me the truth is dead on.

I will try to help everyone that I can and as I add threads will put some helpful pointers aswell.

Here a few pointers to start with 

CCTV - When focusing your cameras cheap or expensive always focus them at night or use a piece of glass that is fitted in a welders mask.
At night an iris opens to take as much light as possible if you focus in daylight the iris is open less as the light fails the iris opens the picture quality will slip. (This counts for the lights with IR flood illumination aswell)

Another point to note if you have CCTV and are recording you must display a sign to indicate that the system is recording (You all have seen them in the shops) this is to do with the data protection act.I always try and fit the sign so that it is in the range of one of the cameras.
If you are using video tapes remember to clean the heads on the VCR regularly.This always improves picture quality.

The buzz word these days though is Digital CCTV recorders believe it or not a half decent one that will hold 300GB worth of images and you can connect up to 4 cameras, these can be bought for as little as £400, you don't need to change tapes and no switcher MUX etc is required.Images are transferred onto DVD or USB stick. Cool Eh!!

If you want to have a go at putting an alarm in then let me give you a few price guides things are not as expensive as you may think.

8 Zone control panel around £55 inc Vat
Decent detectors £20 - £30 each
Good Secure bellbox - £35ish 
Internal Sounder @ 110 - 120 DB - £10 
Speech Dialler - £70

This all industry std stuff you are looking at around £250 - £300 for a good alarm system if you fit it yourself.

Mike C - I had a look at the Amazon ad it looks OK how does it dial out the only drawback with these things is that they can be easily ripped off of the wall and thrown on a bin or if they are screaming they usually use throw then in a bucket of water I have seen that more than once!
Best thing I can advice if you are using one of these is to fix it to the wall as firmly as possible. All bells should be fixed with a minimum of a 2" x 10 screw or if you want metric 5 x 50 personally I always use Stainless steel if it is for the outside bell

But in my mind Mike you seem to have everything well covered A+ !

Watch for the dogs though heres another tale - guy has an German Shepard protecting the house Burglar wants in , Burglar gets in dog goes for him he produces an extremely thick sheet covers the dog bags the dog up (the dog was OK ) brave burglar in my mind but if they are determined !

My personal favorite was this one though 

Guy has 2 Rotties , keeps them in the kitchen with what is known as a maglock to keep the door shut when the alarm is set (there is a spring on the door) when the alarm goes off the door flings open and release the hounds springs to mind.
The house got broken into, the door opened lets just say this guy had no sheet and got caught !!

Anyway please let me know if I can help with any advice I will try and post as much helpful advice as I can over the coming weeks.
As you can probably see I tend to shoot all over the place but if there are questions I will answer them.
Keep Secure !!

Regards

Arch


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## the_g_ster (11 Apr 2007)

Arch, 

Thanks for taking time out to post such valuable advice. I am now worrying about my humble 5 bar lock. That said I live in a middle terrace with no access to garden so like to see somebody move my planer.

Will be looking up some stuff to protect the main house too.

G


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## Mike.C (11 Apr 2007)

> PaulJ,
> 
> 
> 
> I used one of those battery operated alarms once,with the sensors on the doors.Kept going off all through the night once,and that was the end of that idea.



The one I mentioned had a battery but only as a back up incase of a power failure, and you can adjust the sensor incase of false alarms.



> Arch
> 
> Mike C - I had a look at the Amazon ad it looks OK how does it dial out the only drawback with these things is that they can be easily ripped off of the wall and thrown on a bin or if they are screaming they usually use throw then in a bucket of water I have seen that more than once!
> Best thing I can advice if you are using one of these is to fix it to the wall as firmly as possible.



As far as I know it really would not matter if the crook put it in a bucket of water because the second movement is detected it dials one of the numbers you have programed into it. I had my mobile number which I kept by the bed so I would have known straight away, but as I said IMHO this type of alarm is only a stop gap until you can get something better.

Arch thanks for the update on the cctv cameras and the digital hard drive info.

Cheers

Mike


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## TonyW (11 Apr 2007)

Thanks a lot Arch. 
My daughter has just bought her first house - noticed the false bell box and was a little unsure if this a good idea. Your post cleared this up! Looks like Dad will be fitting an alarm amongst other things :roll: 

Just a thought about the dog stories. We seem to be living in an increasingly litigious society. With criminals well versed in the law it is likely that they will file an action against the owners they were trying to rob. Resulting in the possible fine or even imprisonment of the poor soul trying to protect his or her property. :evil: 

Cheers  
Tony

PS I do feel that the guy with the 2 Rotties got what he deserved


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## martlewis (12 Apr 2007)

Hi mate, excellent advice.

I guess I'm a more paranoid shop owner. My humble workshop is well kitted out for security.

Double glazed windows with internal wood shutters that are barred and padlocked. Solid ply doors, hardwood reinforced frame, hinge bolts and 4 padlocks along with a mortice deadlock.

Walls and roof are ply sheets that are screwed and bolted at regular intervals with dome head bolts.

The alarm system is a full multi area system wired underground to the panel hidden away in the house. The only way to disarm is from the upstairs keypad past the dog  The downstairs pad is locked out from the workshop so it stays armed when the misses turns the house part off. And there isn't a pad in the shop itself. Motion, vibration and mag contacts, and there is a wire loop running through the studwork and roof framing just in case anyone wants to cut through it 

And just for good measure there is a masterblaster in the shop to deafen and thief and the neighbours.

Floodlit on all 4 sides also.

Anyone agree I may be paranoid? :lol:


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## TonyW (12 Apr 2007)

martlewis":3t327ppr said:


> Anyone agree I may be paranoid? :lol:



Just because you think you may be paranoid doesn't mean that they are not out to get you anyway :lol: 

Cheers  
Tony


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## DarrenW (12 Apr 2007)

Hi Arch,

One thing I have always wondered is do burglars carry around a set of standard 'keys' for window locks and door bolts.... for example the 'star' keys used for door bolts and 'sqaure' shaped keys used on window locks.

Always wondered.... especially considering you can go into any DIY store and buy these for a few quid.

Darren


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## Adam (12 Apr 2007)

DarrenW":34tgj2jv said:


> Hi Arch,
> 
> One thing I have always wondered is do burglars carry around a set of standard 'keys' for window locks and door bolts.... for example the 'star' keys used for door bolts and 'sqaure' shaped keys used on window locks.
> 
> ...



I never thought they were to stop you getting in once you had smashed a window - but rather to stop you sliding a metal strip up and knocking the catch or whatever off, such that you can just open the window. They are effectively a device to force you to have to smash the window. 

Adam


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## arch (12 Apr 2007)

Adam,
You are correct the locks are to prevent the window being pryed open.

When it comes to windows, the metal strip is a bit outdated now.The latest tool for Double Glazed units is a simple shovel placed between the wall and the frame this will pop the window out.You would be amazed how easily they come out.
If someone is determined to get in they will all you can do is make it as secure as you can.
Remember with woodwalls there are penty of 36v saws out there now and they can be very quiet if wrapped in a blanket,and cut very quickly, some burglars are determined individuals. You have to aim to keep the idiots from trying.
I am not trying to worry the life out of anyone at all, just trying to pass on my experience.
I have always worked on the premis that no one can guarantee they won't be burgalled but make it as hard as you can for them.

A note to Martlewis Masterblaster still one of my favourites!! Best thing is - as long as it is inside the building there is no limit to noise level or ring time they can ring forever inside but external sounders are limited to 15 minutes maximum.If you really want to freak them out add a few strobes inside aswell with strobes and a Masterblaster guaranteed madness !!!

Don't have nightmares

Regards

Arch

Will try and post some more tips tonight.


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## Benchwayze (12 Apr 2007)

My shop has only two wooden sides. The other sides are part of my yard wall. 
My windows are double glazed polycarbonate. Inside there is a heavy guage galvanised grille. Inside that I fixed a drop down wooden shutter that bolts in place when I leave the shop.

My door is a solid ex-house door, to which I bolted a sheet of galvanised steel, covered with tongue and groove to look nice. Inside there is another grille, and the door opens inwards, (Can't be jemmied so easily.) When I lock it, two dead-bolts on each edge go into the frame, which is reinoirced by 1/4" thick 2" angle-iron. 

The shed is fully insulated, which would be further nuisance to a breaker.
It is also right next door to my German Shepherd Dog's luxury, heated kennel. My yard is surrounded by an eight foot high, 9" thick brick wall, and has security lights fitted. My dog, Zack, has the run of the yard at night. There is a warning sign on my gate. The sign is just about the size of a postage stamp! I have placed carpet fixing battens on the inside of the traingular rail over the back-gate. Again a postage stamp sized sign warns of this. 
I have morally complied with the law. I will argue about any future claims against me, if necessary. I don't keep portable tools in there anyway! 

In the end, they have been warned.

John


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## Vormulac (12 Apr 2007)

What - no sentry guns? :wink: 

Nice! 

I really must up my security levels.

V.


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## nickson71 (12 Apr 2007)

I've not got too much security as yet ................. but nearly all my tools are still in the house either the dinning room or under the stairs (P/T is in the shed but if they get it over the wall they can keep it  )

Saying that I built it to hard to get into ...... two walls are the stone wall of my back yard the other two are made from 3x2 frame with 12mm ply on either side and insulation in the middle and on the outside there is 12mm shiplap

the roof is 3x2 frame with 12mm ply either side and insultation in the middle

the door is has a 1" thick timber frame and onto this is coach bolted another 1" thick layer of timber


Hopefully I'll be able to get some more work done in terms of setting up shop in the next month or 2 .....(depends on DIY)

the first thing to be done is sorting out proper power to the shed followed closely by an alarm. The plan is to internally bar the window and maybe do some more work on the door as this only has one expensive padlock at the moment........ I've got a second one at home and a 5 lever mortice lock too

I'm also thinking of having locking tool storage in the shed too

I also need to look into insurance too


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## woodbloke (12 Apr 2007)

I've done much the same as others...alarmed, 5 lever security lock, obscured double glazing etc, but as been said before, probably the most desirable things for the opportunist thief are the portable power tools. What I've done is to engrave my post code onto the plastic or metal bits and also take a digital photo of each tool, including valuable hand tools. Engraving the post code is what's recommended by the police for bicycle security so I thought it would be a good idea for power tools as well - Rob


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## Adam (12 Apr 2007)

woodbloke":39j436ek said:


> What I've done is to engrave my post code onto the plastic or metal bits and also take a digital photo of each tool, including valuable hand tools.



Interesting, I've done my powertools, but never thought to do my hand tools.

Adam


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## dave261266 (12 Apr 2007)

Although the post code is a good idea it will really only come into it's own if the police recover the items. And the chances of that are low. 

Being the victim of a workshop burglary myself a few months ago I can appreciate now how a small padlock is not really the best way of securing the workshop  They didn't take anything other than power tools or things that lived in the same boxes as the power tools. It's the irritating things like the dovetail bit that lived in the box with the router I used for dovetailing. And you don't realise until you need the piece later down the line that it's missing and that's where it must have been. Still, on the bright side I got some new updated tools, 5 year old routers replaced with brand new ones, brand new sanders etc. which is good.

The only thing that's a shame is that when you put your claim in there will be something that you hardly used and you'd rather get something different in it's place - that's really irritating.

I must admit, all credit to the insurance company - I thought, because I didn't have proof of purchase for most of the items as they were gifts or very old, that they would not replace them, but they did without any question.


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## Alf (12 Apr 2007)

woodbloke":3eqwtv5x said:


> What I've done is to engrave my post code onto the plastic or metal bits and also take a digital photo of each tool, including valuable hand tools.


Hah, that's how I got my LN #4 1/2. The chap put his postcode all over the darn thing, the insurance paid for replacement, this one was recovered and subsequently sold via PFT. Only problem is one of the places he elected to put the info was under the rear tote, and the policeman (presumably) who removed same to check it made the most horrible mess of the job. So be careful exactly where you put the mark!

Cheers, Alf


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## Chris Knight (12 Apr 2007)

Alf,
PFT? What is it exactly?


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## Alf (12 Apr 2007)

Sorry, Chris - Pennyfarthing Tools #-o 

Cheers, Alf


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## Sailor (12 Apr 2007)

Evening,

When I finished my workshop, I decided against double glazing for the windows. Stuck to single glazing and then fitted high grade polycarbonate as a secondary fitting. We tried a left-over piece mounted in a wooden frame and we couldn't break it with a brick, It damaged the frame instead! 
It did work out quite a lot more expensive than 'normal' plastic/poly sheeting and came via a friend who secures vehicles for people. 
There is also a couple of Axis cameras running on the home computer network, they are set to take a photo every 20 secs, but as soon as movement is detected on any of the interior/exterior contacts, they start a running recording and store them on the file server which will then send an e-mail and an SMS message. (There are no notices regarding the cameras, as they aren't pointing to an area where they might capture the public and are not remotely controlled, so there is no requirement re Privacy or Data Protection)

Colin


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## arch (22 Apr 2007)

OK,
So you have done everything within your power to stop entry lets just say they get in. The latest thing in security, masking your stuff what do I mean ??

Check this link http://www.bandituk.co.uk/

Click on the play button and imagine that is your workshop!
Incase you are wondering - You can breathe and it is not steam.

So the way this works they get in but can't see anything and get a tad worried when they can't find their way out.
The only thing on their mind then is escapeing your tools are safe.

Keep it sharp guys

Regards

Arch


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## Shultzy (23 Apr 2007)

In the course of designing my workshop the subject of security has never been far from my mind. The usual items came up, shutters, locks, and alarms. Shutters are a physical deterrent and I wondered what other physical barrier I could put on the doors besides locks.

My workshop will have three doors, one lockable and two hinged together which I can bolt/lock from the inside. On a recent visit to Warwick Castle I remember the large beam the occupants would place across the main door to resist battering rams. This seems fairly easy to do, "U" brackets and a piece of 4x2. 

I then wondered if I cut the main door in half (like stable doors), and put the beam across all three doors and exit through the lower half. I know it will be difficult the get in/out but this will also be the case for an intruder.

I then wondered how small you could make the entry door, probably 2x2, but maybe this is too small and impracticable.

Then a brainwave (maybe  ). What if I make a small door in the side of the workshop (4x2 or slightly bigger) which I can slide the beam through and lock with a mortice lock. A lock could be put on the bar and two beams would make it stronger.

I know this may not be ideal, but it could be fitted retrospectively.

Below are a couple of diagrams which should make things clearer. 

Comments would be much appreciated.

Pics are a bit hazy, but its all that TurboCad will export.


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## jobsagooden (23 Apr 2007)

Arch 
What mile long dead lanes likes for security?

Is there any good battery, phone your mobile alarms out there?

Also all the expensive tools are in a steel cabinet locked with a disc lock. I would say the only way in would be with a petrol cutter. 

Thanks for all your tips .


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## jobsagooden (23 Apr 2007)

Shultzy,

I also was thinking along the same style. Though i was thinking about a pulley to lift it out of the way. The problem i though of was what if it got stuck i would look a plonker.  

Your way might well work. The best thing about having it like this is they won't be able to work it out very easily.


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