# I hate painting . . . . but



## bodgerbaz (19 Mar 2017)

. . . Nev has got me thinking that I could maybe use an airbrush.

I have been put off making some cars, lorries and other 3D projects because you have to paint them and they have some tight difficult to get to areas. And, as I H-A-T-E painting anyway, I thought it would be better to lower my stress level by not making them in the first place.

However, inspired by Nev's paintwork on his recent postings I though I might be able to try airbrushing? I don't fancy those noisy aerosol cans you have to keep rattling but airbrushing seems a nice quiet neat way to get a lovely finish. The trouble is, I know absolutely nothing about the subject or technique so if anyone is in a position to help with advice, experiences or to point me in the right direction, that would be swell.

Obviously I'd need to buy a gun of some sort but would also need to know about what type of paint I can use. Can I also use varnish? What about cleaning techniques? Is there lots and lots of cleaning up involved (hammer) 

I've seen some airbrushed artwork and its amazing . . . . but that alas ain't me. I'm not artistic and only want a cheap, quick and quiet way of getting a good paint finish on to pine models.

Any help or advice would be fantastic and any pointers to what type of machine to buy or books would be very helpful indeed.

Thank you for reading thus far :wink: 

Barry


----------



## morturn (19 Mar 2017)

With airbrush’s you get what you pay for, so don’t buy too cheaply. A good starter airbrush is the Neo for Iwata CN gravity feed airbrush.

You need an air supply of around 15 to 20 psi, so you need to choose something that will deliver that. I just use my workshop compressor with the air pressure tuned down.

There is a whole range of paint out there aimed at the airbrush market. Sadly, the worst I have used is Humbrol, with is the one we all know and love, not, from our airfix days.

As a beginner, I suggest you use acrylic paint with a gloss, or semi-gloss acrylic varnish. I would suggest Vallego Model Air as a good starting point. It is ready mixed so you can use it straight from the bottle and you will get an idea of the correct consistency when using other paint that needs thinning.

Other good paints are Tamiya, Revell and Mr Color.

I am not sure what your paining on but you may need a primer, so look at Vallejo Acrylic-Urethane Primer. Comes in white, grey and black, however I also have a feeling they are now marketing other colours too.

Mr. Color GX Paint [Gloss] Super Clear III GUNZE is an excellent acrylic varnish. There is a matt and semi matt version of this too.

To thin acrylic paint try Tamiya 81040 Acrylic Poly Thinners or ‘Ultimate Airbrush Thinner’ is quite good.

To clean you air brush, I just use tap water to get it clean and then blow a little ‘Ultimate Airbrush Cleaner’ through the gun.

If you want to pint metallic or chrome, then Alclad II Lacquers are very good but they need a technique to use, so come back to me on that.


----------



## bodgerbaz (19 Mar 2017)

Whoah . . . thank you so much for the information. That'll take some absorbing and a wealth of lovely hints and tips. Thank you very much.

Barry


----------



## NazNomad (19 Mar 2017)

Following this with interest...

Painting is my nemesis, and I can't count how many half-painted things I have stashed away, in the hope that they will bio-degrade before I need to finish them.


----------



## Dinky78 (19 Mar 2017)

thanks Morturn ... good stuff there ... I hope to paint the neighbours front gate while her OH is away for a couple of weeks .. spraying sounds fun!

some other folk tho !



Noel":1r7c18sn said:


> I'm a little bit different from the other mods, so listen up: any more stupidly contrived asinine posts and you're out and definitely do not send any more PMs to Mods other than once replying to me in a brief and concise manner. You have a choice: engage with others in a normal, civilized fashion like everybody else and we'll all be fine or you will be sanctioned. This forum is all about offering advice and helping others and that ethos will not be hijacked or damaged by your ranting, delusional nonsense.
> 
> Have a nice day.


----------



## NazNomad (19 Mar 2017)

Dinky78":3cnj0idd said:


> I hope to paint the neighbours front gate while her OH is away for a couple of weeks



:shock: :shock: :shock:


----------



## garethharvey (19 Mar 2017)

My son uses an airbrush, he is studying A Level Art. You have to make sure you completely clean down the tool after every use. He doesn't, and it becomes a nightmare for me each time he wants to use it.


----------



## nev (19 Mar 2017)

Mine is about as cheap as one gets, around 25 quid for the 'set'. It comes with a little aerosol propellant and fitting so you can use it without a compressor, but they do not last long, so I just bought a separate adaptor for about 3 quid and run it from my mickey mouse lidl compressor.
It would be no good for fine line work but is ok for colouring the likes of the little car or applying colouring to turnings etc.
Similar to if not this actual kit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BADGER-Airbru ... 1049040793

Used it for the blue and lacquer on this 







I also used it to paint the red on my bike


----------



## bodgerbaz (19 Mar 2017)

Thanks for the info Nev. Much appreciated =D> 

You and morturn have given me a start.

I think I need to get a kit including spray gun and compressor to save keep buying aerosol propellant.

All I need to really do is spray wooden vehicles (typically 8" x 4" x 2" ish) to save having to hand brush them. Obviously mudguards and odds and ends will need to be picked out by brush but if I can spray a couple of coats of paint (and get a nice finish) I'll feel the need to actually start making some of the many vehicle plans that I've bought  

Presumably, I pour the paint into the reservoir/container and after use the whole thing needs to be stripped down and cleaned out by spraying water/white spirit (depending on the paint used) through jet as well as thoroughly cleaning out the reservoir/container. It seems like a lot of cleaning and phaffing about when I can just throw away the paint brush . . . but I guess if I want a nice finish I'll have endure the cleaning.

The thing is, I just like making things out of wood and have little interest in painting them. Varnish gives a certain amount of pleasure but I can't get me rocks off for paint.

I'm assuming I'll need to learn about thickness of paint and viscosity?

Barry


----------



## nev (19 Mar 2017)

bodgerbaz":2lgjful3 said:


> ...
> Presumably, I pour the paint into the reservoir/container and after use the whole thing needs to be stripped down and cleaned out by spraying water/white spirit (depending on the paint used) through jet as well as thoroughly cleaning out the reservoir/container. It seems like a lot of cleaning and phaffing about when I can just throw away the paint brush . . . but I guess if I want a nice finish I'll have endure the cleaning.
> ...
> I'm assuming I'll need to learn about thickness of paint and viscosity?
> ...



Yep. With this cheap set, the pots have separate lids, so if you get a few extra you can leave the paint in the pot and replace the screw cap, and just use another for the cleaning. Again because of the basic design there are no needles or jets to worry about*, so just a quick shake and squirt (gentlemen please!) and I leave the gubbins in a little cleaner (water or spirits) in the pot. Job done.

The paint only goes from jar, through pipe X and out through jet, so thats the only parts that need cleaning. The Jet/ outlet is just screwed up or down to vary the spray pattern from narrow to wide, and thats it, a very simple design.

The Plasikote enamel( I'm sure theres a cheaper version somewhere) I used on the car is water based, toy safe and the matt black sprayed without thinning, the red with a few drops of water. Chestnut acrylic lacquer (expiry date 2014!) also without thinning.

Edit: don't pay 3 quid for replacement pick up tubes 50-025 if you lose one - a standard pen refill is just the right size 






https://www.amazon.co.uk/BADGER-Airbrus ... B003972JIW


----------



## bodgerbaz (19 Mar 2017)

Many thanks for the update Nev. I have loads of "Plasti-Kote Odds 'n Ends" jars which I'm hoping to use and it looks like I can use that straight from the jar (once stirred).

I've been doing some research and thought that this looked quite good https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/lho/Airbrush ... B00AARML5U . I can get this over here in germany for about €136 + postage. D'ya think this is overkill? It seems to have everything I could possibly need.

Barry


----------



## nev (19 Mar 2017)

I would imagine that setup would cover all eventualities that you may need but afraid I can't offer any advice as the badger is the entire sum of my experience with airbrushes.


----------



## AES (19 Mar 2017)

L O N G post warning!!!

Hullo Barry (bodgerbaz). I have had quite a lot of experience of painting models, mainly aircraft (both the flying type, and scale plastic models), and lately, a little bit of toy painting (see my tractor & trailer post on this section a while back).
And I've even managed the re-painting of full size aircraft (where believe it or not, weight plays a big role, just like in flying models). So I do have some experience in this area.

And in response to some points raised on this Forum by DTR a while back, I had some inputs to make on the subject of airbrushing. Here's the link to that:

dave-s-wooden-stuff-t99301-30.html
(look about half way down page 3).

And as far as links go, a regular poster on the US Toy Makers Forum had quite a lot of useful stuff to say about spray painting toys just recently. Here's the link:

http://forums.toymakingplans.com/post/s ... sh-8439545

So let's get to it (as I see this subject anyway):

1. Like you, I'm not really a great fan of painting, but when it "must" be done..............;

2. Personally I agree 100% with the Toy Makers Forum post linked above - spray painting is NOT worth all the hassle unless you're going to be doing the work in batches. Spraying a one-off toy, especially if more than a single colour is involved, just isn't worth all the prep, masking, and cleaning up time needed. In other words, you need to save all your one-off toys until you've got, say, half a dozen ready for painting. AND (most important IMO), do NOT fully assemble the toys before painting, just leave them in "major sub assembly" state - MUCH easier to paint at that stage, then do final assembly after all the paint and varnish is really hard . So for one off jobs, just use either a brush (see item 6) below, or aerosol (see 7 below);

3. As well as the airbrush itself, plus the compressor of course, you also need some sort of lazy susan, plus a method of suspending the items being painted (hooks/string/wire/ pyramids, etc). And don't forget the over-spray catcher, though this can of course be just a big packing carton lying on its side - you don't need a proper extractor hood unless you're doing really big stuff, or spraying really dangerous paints such as 2 component type. But don't forget at least a simple mask, even for "just" acrylics.
In total, this is going to be a fair investment, although it does of course "pay back" if you're going to be doing a lot of spraying. But please do NOT think that just because you're spraying you'll automatically end up with a better finish than by hand brush or aerosol - without a fair bit of practice you won't - any more than by buying a super-duper scroll saw you'll automatically get better cuts without practising on it first;

4. As to what equipment to buy, see my own personal recommendations in the first link above. There are many choices. Most of my stuff was bought a long time ago, either in UK or Singapore, so I'm well out of touch with current prices, but for "us" this side of the channel, as a VERY rough ball park I'd think you're probably looking at 300 Euros and up for all the stuff listed at my item 3. above. Incidentally, that should all be OK for any toys up to about the size of a toddler's ride-on tricycle or rocking horse. Anything bigger than that really needs automotive-type spray gear, which is a whole different ball game. But there have been a number of posts in the Finishing section from people setting HVLP, etc, for spraying kitchen cabinets, etc;

5. Just like every other painting method, the majority of the effort goes into the pre-painting work - sanding in ever finer grits, then very fine rubbing down between paint and clear coat coats is the only way to get a good finish. DAMHIKT! (look at my recent tractor & trailer post again)! But if you are set on airbrushing, you need to add in the not inconsiderable time needed for a thorough strip and clean of the airbrush - after EVERY use of course, but also between different colours, AND if you're spraying several coats of the same colour, then between EVERY coat. Believe me, I've tried not doing this thorough clean several times and it ALWAYS ends in tears, regardless of the paint type;

6. Hand brushing can work really well, bearing in mind the caveats in it 5 above. You have much more "tolerance" in the amount of thinner needed for each coat and type of paint (and you can really feel the brush "dragging" when the paint is too thick) but that's much easier to fix than when air brushing, and it can be done immediately, rather than emptying the airbrush and refilling it with a slightly more thinned version - often several times before you get it right!. And of course, there's no chance of thinning the paint if using aerosol (but see 7 below).
And a HUGE advantage of brushing is the low cost - a set of, say, 4 good quality camel or sable paint brushes ranging from, say, width 5 or 6 mm to 30 mm from the artist's supply shop (but NOT from the DIY Emporium please!) will cost much less than the above compressor (and provided you clean them well - MUCH easier than cleaning an air brush!) they will last for literally years and years;

7. Aerosol is much derided but often (IMO anyway) that's because people don't use them properly. And they are VERY expensive (against buying just about any other type of paint). But "my" method below will ensure you use all that's in the can, will ensure that the paint is the right thickness for spraying, AND you have a huge range of colours straight off the shelf, from just about anywhere. Here's how I learnt to use them (over quite a long time, and from others experiences I must say):
A) Use your watch sweep second hand or a stop watch (really), and shake the can for a MINIMUM of 2 minutes (Yes, this is a L O N G time, but do it anyway, NO less)! And BTW, the time starts from when you first hear the rattle ball start rattling, NOT when you first start shaking. Half of the total shaking time should be with the can held nozzle up, half with the can held nozzle down;
B) After the 2 minutes, place the can, cap downwards, into a bucket of hot water (NOT boiling, but as hot as you can comfortably put you hand into);
C) When ready, remove from the bucket, remove the outer cover cap, wipe off any water, then invert the can (nozzle down) and spray onto scrap, paper, etc, until you see the colour spray emerging. Then apply the spray to the job with the can upright and the nozzle about 6 to 9 inches away from the job, using a regular side-to-side motion, and a parallel 6 to 9 inches throughout the hand sweep. Start the spray before your hand sweep meets the job, and continuing the spray until after your hand sweep has passed the job. Assuming you need more than one hand sweep for the job, or need to stop spraying momentarily for any other reason, wipe any excess dribbles off the nozzle with tissue, replace the safety cap and dump the tin back into the water, nozzle down attitude;
D) When ready to spray again, shake the whole tin again for AT LEAST 1 minute, remove the safety cap, wipe off the water, then start spraying again as per C) above;
E) When finished, invert the can again and spray on to scrap until you see no more paint coming out of the nozzle. Then wipe the can and nozzle off, remove the nozzle and store it in a jar containing water (if acrylic paint, or whatever the correct thinner/brush cleaner is for that particular paint type), replace the safety cap, and store the part-used aerosol INVERTED (cap down).
P.S. 1. Not all aerosols have exactly the same nozzle so it's worth keeping the "dead" nozzle (in thinners) even after the can is fully emptied. I now have quite a collection built up over time.
P.S. 2. Our local DIY Emporia sell a little plastic "nozzle/trigger" device which clips onto the neck of all aerosol cans. They're pretty cheap and I find them very useful because the trigger action gives a somewhat better feel than straight forward nozzle depression, and with my sausage-like fingers, I find that on some of the smaller aerosol nozzle designs, my finger "meat" extends over the nozzle head into the paint spray pattern with the obvious (bad) results. The trigger thingy prevents that.

I'm pretty sure that there's more in all the above than you (and everyone else!) ever wanted to know, but I hope you can pick the stuff which is useful to you out of all the verbiage!

I do have a couple of useful books on airbrushing which I'll happily lend you if you like (drop me a PM) and of course, these days, there's a lot of very good info on the internet. Google for various scale modelling web sites as a start off.

HTH

AES


----------



## bodgerbaz (19 Mar 2017)

Whoah . . . Andy. Many thanks for the posting. Gonna take me a few reads to absorb all the information and yes, any PDFs on the subject would be a great help. Do you still have my email address?

Barry


----------



## AES (19 Mar 2017)

Barry, that amazon set you linked to looks OK - with some reservations. The compressor looks particularly good (I think it's a diaphragm type, so not very noisy, like the bigger workshop comps of the piston type, with big tank) and it has what looks like both a combined water trap/pressure regulator on it, which is very good.

It hasn't got a tank, but that's not necessary for small stuff, PROVIDED you get a fairly long hose (biggish bore, I guess about 4 mm ID, & about 2 M long) 'cos that takes the pressure pulses out of the line to a large extent. However, to that kit I'd also add another small filter/water trap to go on the hose at the airbrush end (+ the necessary adaptor/s of course).

The airbrushes themselves look fine - to my eye, very much like Badger, which like nev, is the only brand I have experience of. 

The "bigger" brush looks just like the Badger 250 which is the simplest type - no needle, external mix, "blow over a hole" type, so perfectly good for spraying an overall coat of varnish, or 1 base colour say. The smaller airbrush looks just like my Badger 150. There I have my reservations 'cos assuming it is "150-like" it's a bit too complex & fine for your use. If it is, then it's an external mix, dual action, needle type job. Still assuming it's a 150 (look alike), then it's brilliant, absolutely the sort of thing that artists, custom car and bike blokes, etc, etc, use, for all those brilliant sunsets, skull & cross bones, photo replicas, etc, work you see. I really can't believe that such a brush is included in the kit at that price. BUT you'll need a lot of practice to get good results, AND it really does need a strip down clean after every coat, 'onhest injuns!

OTOH, if you refer to the link I posted above when talking to DTR about air brushes, I think better (for you) than that 150 look-alike would be Badger 350 (or similar). This is a half way house between the simple "blow over a hole" 250 type shown in the amazon set and the much more complex (but capable) 150 look-alike also shown. The 350 has nearly all the capability of the 150 type (especially for fine lines) but as it had both a needle/orifice and a set of nozzles (Fine, Medium, Heavy). This I've found to be best of all for our sort of stuff, especially because it's much more tolerant of mix viscosity, and paint type and pigment density. I say again, I'm saying Badger 'cos that's the only brand I've ever used, but there are others similar, such as Paasche and DeVilbis, and these days several Japanese makes, of which I have no experience at all (nor have I heard anything, not having frequented modelling circles for some time).

2 other points re your amazon post.
First, you'd need to order (from them, or elsewhere) at least 3 or 4 extra of those screw-lid jars. One to contain whatever thinner you use (water, airbrush cleaner, brush cleaner, etc), and at least one more to store the ready-thinned (by trial and error!) paint mix while you clean the air brush out between coats.
Second point - when I looked a moment ago the link showed "currently out of stock"!

A couple of other more general points - the idea of using aerosol propellant cans is "OK-ish" but unless you use the hot water bucket system (see my first post above) they deliver wildly varying pressure, AND they're very expensive and don't last long. There's an adaptor for these included within that amazon kit link you gave and you won't need it, I promise!

Similarly, that adaptor can be used to couple up the airbrush to your car spare tyre (if it has one). Similarly, a frustrating waste of time, cos again the pressure is too high to start off with, then too low, AND it doesn't last long enough at any pressure anyway- I have tried.

Yes, I do still have your E-mail, so am about to scan and .pdf the little booklets which came with my Badger 350 and 150. They'll give you a good start off insight. You'll get them some time before SS-GB starts tonight!

I don't have anything else in .pdf format but will happily post you a couple of books on loan.

Alternatively, we're not all that far away from each other (4 hours max?), so if you'd like to come by sometime and play with my various toys you'll be more than welcome. Unfortunately we don't have a spare bedroom, but you can always park your "Bazmobile" in my front garden if you want to make a night of it.

Finally (at last!!!), I do really hope I'm not being offensive in any way, but 3 things about your posts above do really disturb me:

First, you seem to suggest that "just because" you've got an airbrush you'll get a better finish. Without practising you won't (and the more "fine and capable" the airbrush, the more practice you'll need).
Second, even the very simple airbrush (the 250 type discussed above) does require cleaning, and once you get to the more capable fine unit, then you're really are talking strip, clean, re-assemble. Not really a huge task, but something that does take time, and needs to be factored into the whole airbrush? or hand brush? or aerosol? equation.
Third, in my experience anyway, getting just the right paint viscosity for a successful (airbrush) spray really is a matter of quite some trial and error - gets better/quicker as you get used to the particular paint type and airbrush, but NOT just "stir up and away we go" (although I must say I have no experience of the Revell, Mr. Color, etc, and other paints someone mentioned above).

AES


----------



## Bm101 (19 Mar 2017)

As usual I can't help with any actual useful advice so I apologise in advance but it did trigger a memory from my youth that made me smile. Hope im not being _too_ off topic.I used to be quite into my drawing and stuff when I was a lad. I had a birthday coming up and knew what I wanted. I was wrong but hey. I thought I knew I needed an airbrush. I saved up, put some money towards it and everything. Anyway. Long story short. I'm round my Nans a few days after. She was a lovely woman but very much of her generation. She asked me what I got for my birthday.
Me: An airbrush Nan.
Nan. _H_airbrush
Me: No Nan, it was an airbrush.

My Nan looked at me.
Nan:It's pronounced_ Hairbrush. _
Me: No Nan, it was an airbrush
My Nan looked at me again. This time for an uncomfortable period.
Me: Yes Nan. A Hairbrush. I got a Hairbrush.
Nan: Anything else?
Me: Er, no, not really Nan no. It was quite expensive.

My Nan looked at me.

Does your Mum not realise you can buy them cheap in Woolworths?

I can still remember my Old Fella doubled up in the doorway behind my Nan _shaking_ with laughter. The Div. :evil: 

Memories eh? Ah well. Sorry for the sidetrack. Good luck with the Hairbrushing. Trick I've heard is to get a good parting between the colours! (hammer)


----------



## AES (19 Mar 2017)

No prob from me about the off topic bm. (BTW, did you EVER get an AIR brush? And do you have any use for a HAIR brush these days? If Yes, them you're luckier than me mate!).  

@Barry (bodgerbaz):

Scanned, and E-mail on the way.

AES


----------



## Bm101 (19 Mar 2017)

I still have all my own hair Aes! 
There's just not so much of it nowadays.


----------



## AES (19 Mar 2017)

Yeah me too! Typical "old man's" problem - too much around the middle and not enough up top (brain OR hair)  

AES


----------



## bodgerbaz (20 Mar 2017)

Many thanks for the information and the email Andy.

We had people around last night so I'll have a good read of your comments today. There is a lot to absorb and I thank you for taking the time to comment ;-)

Barry


----------



## bodgerbaz (22 Mar 2017)

Sorry to take so long to get back to this subject but there was a lot to read and absorb and we've been busy getting ready for a short trip back to the UK.

I'd like to thank everyone for their valuable contributions to this subject. It has been very helpful to me and I hope others have also benefited from this thread.

I hadn't thought about until now but, yes, I probably would be painting vehicles one at a time and AES was perfectly correct in that the time taken to setup and cleanup will be substantially longer than the actual spraying bit. I hadn't fully thought that through but it does make a lot of sense, under those conditions, to find an alternative. I.e. improving me brush skills or aerosol spraying.

@AES. Many thanks for the invitation to pop down to see you in me 'bazmobile'. I think we could sort something out there (maybe April ish) as it would be good to chat about things over a coffee.

I think I'll gonna sack the idea of the airbrush route as I'm not very keen on cleaning out brushes, never mind striping down expensive equipment for a 2 or 3 minute paint job. I'll investigate aerosols (thanks for the very detailed instructions Andy).

Barry


----------



## AES (22 Mar 2017)

From my side Barry, no problem, glad to be of some help (it's not so often that I get to post anything other than Qs on here)!

Yeah, try the aerosol route, you'll find "my" method works very well (and once again, it's not really "my" method, but a combination of stuff I collected up from other more experienced people over the years).

Have a good trip, and yeah, when you get back I'll be pleased if we can sort something out for a visit to "that high-cost inseln mitte ins Europ"!!!!

AES


----------



## martinka (22 Mar 2017)

Barry, if you are going to use rattle cans, make a can shaker to save on aching arms, wrists, shoulders, etc. There's lots of great ideas on Youtube. https://goo.gl/dhQhW9
I put mine in the lathe chuck at an angle and let the lathe run while i do something else


----------



## bodgerbaz (22 Mar 2017)

Many thanks for that Martin. Who'd have thought it. Problem = Solution. Thank you ;-)


----------



## AES (22 Mar 2017)

Now THAT'S a VERY good idea. Why didn't I think of that????

You're quite right, shaking the tin for 2 mins really does make your arm ache!

AES


----------



## AES (23 Mar 2017)

Blimey martinka, I've now looked at the aerosol can shaker link you posted.

I always knew/learnt that getting the paint, thinner, and propellant all properly mixed while still in the tin is absolutely fundamental to success with aerosols, but until I looked at your link I never even thought about a mechanised device, and certainly had no idea that there are so many ideas out there. 

Thanks for posting that. I don't use aerosols all that much, but just as you say, 2 mins worth of shaking don't 'arf make the wrist, arm, and shoulders hurt, so making one of those devices is now high on my roundtoit list.

Have you made one, if so, which?

AES


----------



## martinka (23 Mar 2017)

AES":24pjgh5q said:


> Have you made one, if so, which?
> 
> AES



I use the lathe, as I mention above. I pop the can in the 3 jaw chuck at a slight angle and let the lathe run for a few minutes. I'll probably make one of the ones on youtube though, just because I like making stuff. 

What I really need is a reminder to invert and spray the can to clean it after use. I'm forever having to throw away blocked cans.


----------



## bodgerbaz (23 Mar 2017)

Ah. I don't have a lathe so I need to be inventive. Maybe strapped to the wheel when I pop into town to restock me beer cellar? Seriously though, I'll check out one of the YouTube videos.


----------



## martinka (23 Mar 2017)

I like this one - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4mdofZDCO8 
Easy to make and everyone has a drill, don't they? Someone suggested making it so the can is on its side, but I suppose you could make it so that it can be turned and find the best position. Because it runs slow, it can be made without bearings, but I need some small bearings for another job, so I 'll buy a pack of skateboard bearings and make one that I can clamp to the lathe bed and drive with the chuck. Need to send for another pack of roundtuits as well.


----------



## AES (23 Mar 2017)

Thanks martinka. When you order your new pack of roundtoits, could you get a pack for me too please  

AES

P.S. Yup, inverting the can after use is v important for ensuring the valve (inside the can) is not blocked up next time you come to use it. You can run it under the hot tap (NOT in the bathroom!) and proggle around into the valve with a pin, which works (sometimes) but it IS a messy job.


----------



## martinka (23 Mar 2017)

What usually gets blocked is the bottom of the tube inside the can, and once that is blocked, your only real choice is to chuck it in the bin.


----------



## AES (23 Mar 2017)

NOT if you (immediately after finishing spraying):

1. Invert the can and spray (onto paper or something) until no more colour comes out;

2. Store the can inverted with the safety cap on (without the spray button, which goes separately into a closed jar with thinners, water, or whatever suits the type of paint).

Try it, you'll be pleasantly surprised.

AES


----------



## bodgerbaz (24 Mar 2017)

All great tips - many thanks. TICK


----------

