# Wadkin lathe restoration



## sawtooth-9 (15 Mar 2015)

Having searched far and wide to find a Wadkin BZL lathe unsuccessfully, was lucky enough to find a Wadkin RS 6 which was up for auction within an hours drive from home in Sydney Australia.
The lathe is Pre 1956 and suspect it may be around 1945 - 1950
It was part of the pattern makers shop in a foundry which had ceased trading.
The lathe has had almost no use and showed no signs of wear. Looks like it has just sat there for the past 40 years gathering dust. The grease in the bearings had solidified and I suspect the bearings had been run dry so she sounded a bit grumbly. Someone had painted it sky blue with "house paint" !
Anyway, placed a number of bids and picked this little beauty up for a very fair price.
So far, it has been dismantled and the original Wadkin 3 phase motor rebuilt and fitted with new bearings.
Next job is to remove the spindle and replace the bearings.Whilst the spindle is out, will remove the speed change arms and re paint the headstock.
I have managed to find an epoxy enamel almost identical to the original Wadkin green
If there is any interest in the progress, I will learn how to post some progress reports and pictures.


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## cedarwood (15 Mar 2015)

Any interest oohhh we love a good WIP here with lots of pics of the progress so get that camera going and learn how to post the results


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## sawtooth-9 (15 Mar 2015)

Thanks Cedarwood.
Nice to know there is interest, and will keep progress updated.
Thanks to Wallace for his great work in restoration. He really is an inspiration to do better.


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## wallace (15 Mar 2015)

Everyone likes a restoration thread. Why did you get the motor rewound? did you change the voltage or was it damaged. I have only had to have one motor rewound and that was only because someone had added new wires to the ones coming out of the windings and not insulated them properly, so it burnt out. These old motors are so over engineered and good quality. I don't think I've had to replace bearings on a wadkin machine yet either. Has your lathe got any of the extras, carriage etc.


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## sawtooth-9 (15 Mar 2015)

Hi Wallace, did not rewind motor, windings are perfect. Each phase showed balanced resistance and all tested well with mega. Only replaced bearings because they had been run dry and might as well do it while motor was open.
Yes, came with carriage and a couple of tool rests and face plates.
Only part I am looking for is the tool rest for when the gap is removed.Daltons were unable to help, so may have to make one. Will need to ask the forum if anyone can measure up a genuine part.
At the rear of the carriage, there are three adjusting screws which position the carriage on the bed - do you know if there should be a gib strip between these bolts and the bed ?


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## wallace (15 Mar 2015)

Have you got the outboard freestanding tool rest, they are hard to find and make decent money. I know a dealer with 2 of gap bed tool rests, problem is he wont sell them. The three bolts at the back of the carriage just ride against the bed side, they don't have a bar.


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## sawtooth-9 (16 Mar 2015)

No, I did not get an outboard tool rest, but that is ok because the largest diameter we will turn will fit over the gap.
I need up the end caps on the spindle bearings today and the outboard bearing looks ok but the inboard bearing looks like it has collapsed or is very worn. As suspected, the grease had solidified and the bearing has been run dry so I will replace both bearings.
Looks like one has to remove a collar and the split lock nut from the inboard end and tap the spindle out towards the outboard side. Does this sound right ?
Have taken some photos and will attempt to post these tomorrow.


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## merlin (16 Mar 2015)

I have got a gap bed tool post holder if you need some dims, my lathe is a 10" but I think the holder is from an 8" still works ok.

I just looked at the 3 bolts on the back of the carriage and there is a "gib" strip on mine - from memory one bolt locates into an indent to stop it moving about and the other 2 bear up against it.

I'm still looking for a steady rest - I might as well be looking for the Holy Grail !

Cheers, Merlin


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## wallace (16 Mar 2015)

Merlin is that the rest for doing long work? I too have been looking for one. Its nice to know about the gib strip, I've had a couple of the carriages and none of them have had one.


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## merlin (16 Mar 2015)

Hello Wallace,

Yes the steady rest is for the longer work and seems to be rarer than rocking horse teeth. 
when I bought mine I got a steady with it that was made by the previous owner - it is a work of art with the biggest bearing I have seen but it would be good to get an original one. 
if you need any dims for the gib strip let me know.

Merlin


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## sawtooth-9 (17 Mar 2015)

I have included a couple of pics of the RS6, as bought at auction, and a couple dismantled ready to be transported home for stripping and painting.
Aside from the bearings, the machine appears in remarkably good condition.
Typo on the comment about manufacturing date, should read 1945


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## wallace (17 Mar 2015)

That looks to be in nice condition. That nut that holds the spindle in is sometimes hard to get loose. Check which way the threads go before trying. Sometimes you can get some stilsons to grip sideways. I don't know what tool is supposed to slacken that type of nut. Generally you find them knocked around with a cole chisel.


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## wallace (17 Mar 2015)

Yes the spindle comes out the outboard side, on mine there was a grub bolt on the pulley that bears down on a gib key. I used a piece of wood inside the morse taper so as not to damage the spindle threads and the gave it a good wack


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## sawtooth-9 (20 Mar 2015)

Have to delay progress on this project due to second cataract surgery.
One eye is great, the other .......
Made a couple of mistakes which I would like to put down to poor vision, but the truth is that I should have not rushed in. One needs to understand the mind set of Wadkin and how they engineer their machines


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## wallace (20 Mar 2015)

It helps to have a couple of eyes, what mistakes did you make? Im trying to get my restoration finished in the next couple of weeks because im having surgery to remove calcium deposits and un freeze my shoulder joint. Its a 6 week recovery


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## sawtooth-9 (20 Mar 2015)

Hi Wallace, one silly mistake was in the removal of the pulley from the motor shaft. Did not see the taper pin that goes through the collar and assumed the collar would come off with the pulley. When you use a hydraulic puller you don't get any real feel for the applied force, and I broke off a section of the small end of the cast iron pulley. Also, being new to this site, I did not see that your post had several pages, so did not see that you had shown this taper pin. It was suggested that the broken section could be welded back on, but I think the break is too close to the key way and a high risk of cracking the whole pulley. So will machine off this end of the pulley flange and fit a new section. Will add photo of repair once complete. I now check this site carefully before doing each job and is why I asked the question about the spindle removal ! Thanks for all your help so far. Cheers


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## sawtooth-9 (19 Apr 2015)

Finally recovered from the second cataract removal and can see again !
Thanks to the advice from Wallace, the removal of the spindle went very smoothly. Simply a matter of removing the collar, held in place with a set screw and removing the split lock nut ( right hand thread ). A series of gentle taps with a Thor hammer and, presto, the spindle removed. I did go to the trouble of making a special spinner to remove the split lock nut, as this is too deeply set into the casting to get any means to tap it loose. Once removed, it looks like Wadkin must have had a special pin spanner, as there are three holes positioned in the edge opposite the split. I used a cruder design of spanner, but it worked a treat.

In fact the spindle removal is so quick and easy, I will be using a continuous belt with no joiner as this is much smoother and quieter when running.

The motor has been re assembled and painted and the motor base plate painted.
Am now trying to resolve and locate a suitable bearing grease EP grade, suitable for spindle speeds of 3000 rpm
Would be interested in knowing if anyone has some expertise in this area.

The headstock has been stripped and the speed change mechanism removed for cleaning and painting.

I thought I had the paint matched close to original, but I am finding several different greens as parts are cleaned. So have just decided to use a colour that suits the machine. Having test painted a couple of small parts, the colour looked good, but when applied to a bigger area needed darkening quite a bit. Anyway, should look good when picked out in the red and black.

I will attach a few pics and you will see the two spanners made for the split lock nuts on the spindle and motor shaft


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## sawtooth-9 (19 Apr 2015)

Spindle spanner


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## sawtooth-9 (19 Apr 2015)

Applying spanner to spindle lock nut


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## sawtooth-9 (19 Apr 2015)

Spanner to remove and apply the split lock nut to the motor shaft


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## sawtooth-9 (19 Apr 2015)

Showing spanner applied to motor shaft lock nut and the new flange at the end of the flat belt pulley, to replace the broken section


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## sawtooth-9 (19 Apr 2015)

Motor assembly, freshly painted


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## thick_mike (19 Apr 2015)

Great stuff, thanks for posting.


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## wallace (19 Apr 2015)

Looking good, I like the spanner. The grease I use is a lithium bearing grease from my local bearing guy. I got my lathe finished and shipped off just in time for little bit of keyhole surgery in my shoulder. I cant start another machine for a couple of months


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## sawtooth-9 (20 Apr 2015)

Hi Wallace. It just so happens that I pack grease for a major oil company in Australia (Castrol ) and have about 200 tons of grease on the floor. However, nothing we pack is really suitable !
Most greases today are a lithium soap and are not an EP grade ( extreme pressure ) also, they are only rated to about 1500 rpm. The most common E P additive is molybdenum disulphide and result in a black grease, but again not really rated to around 3000 rpm
There is a grease made by Castrol called " Long time PD2 but it is a specialized grease imported to Aus. And comes at a very step price.
So still looking for a grease that will do a good job


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## sawtooth-9 (28 Apr 2015)

Have seen an RS, almost identical to mine, on the web and this was identified as having a manufacturing date of 1964. So mine could be about the same gar, rather than Pre 1956.
Based on the name plate, pictured above, can anyone help to identify manuf. Date ?
Am now ready to transport headstock and bed home, having made a couple of pallets so I can move in and out of the workshop for stripping and painting. 
Whole process delayed a little because of a couple of weeks of torrential rain !!


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## wallace (28 Apr 2015)

Your type of machine tag has the year it was made on it, the first two numbers of the test number are 45 so it was made in 1945. This method of dating only applies to the cast tags.


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## sawtooth-9 (30 Apr 2015)

While waiting for the rain to stop bucketing down, I decided to complete my research into the best spindle grease.
Further research into Castrol Longtime PD2 grease led me to believe that it is really nothing special and is wY overpriced.
I have finally settled on a Calcium Sulphonate Complex with NLGI 2 and a base oil viscosity of 9.6 cs @ 100 deg C
The calcium sulphonate complex provides much superior EP properties than Lithium based greases and the low base oil viscosity will cater for the high end of spindle rpm
Not always easy to make a grease selection, but as all the bearings are new, I like to give them their best shot !


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## sawtooth-9 (5 May 2015)

Finally the first predictable dry day since Easter. We have had torrents of rain, up to 5 inches in a day !
So it was time to move the heavy bits from the factory, to home. These parts were too heavy to just dump on a trailer, because we have a VERY steep drive way, so opted to hire a utility.
Packed the stripped headstock and bed onto a pallet and secured to the pallet with metal strapping. Had to pack the tray of the "ute" with bits of pallets to prevent any movement during the 40 mile journey home, because it was not possible to get more than one strap to hold the load down.
Also had to lay the headstock on it's side because I have insufficient head height for the lift if the head was vertical. We are lucky that our house is built on massive steel beams, and one is conveniently located just before the garage door.
All the lathe components are now home and further fun can now commence !


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## sawtooth-9 (5 May 2015)

Hope the following pics are of some interest.


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## sawtooth-9 (2 Jun 2015)

Have had a few delays with this project, including building a tree house for the grand kids !
Will be posting again soon.


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## NickWelford (2 Jun 2015)

WIP for the treehouse?


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## sawtooth-9 (3 Jun 2015)

Hi Nick
Sometimes in life you have to make some tough decisions. Grandchildren grow up so quickly and you only get a short window.
A Wadkin lasts much longer and has the patience to wait until other priorities are sorted.


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## wallace (3 Jun 2015)

I think Nick meant did you do a Work In Progress WIP on the treehouse. Pictures and method of construction :lol:


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## NickWelford (3 Jun 2015)

Indeed.


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## sawtooth-9 (3 Jun 2015)

Wow, I did not expect this !
If you are interested, I will post pics etc over the next week or so.
The tree was only big enough to hang a bird cage, so I sank posts and built a platform to construct the house.
The children are 6, 4 and 2 and are so excited to see their dream being built.
It's an incredible learning experience for them, and we are documenting the progress as a book.


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## sawtooth-9 (8 Jun 2015)

Yet another short delay with the Wadkin restoration.
I have just purchased a Harrison L6 metal lathe and have to make room to fit this in the workshop and transport it home.
The combination of the Wadkin and Harrison will enable us to build the products we intend to have for sale.


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## sawtooth-9 (30 Jun 2015)

Will soon finish the tree house, just fitting the shingle roof and then clad.
Will post a few pics showing construction etc.
Have finished the sanding and filling of the Wadkin headstock and will be doing the bed ready to spray shortly.
Whilst all this is going on, am making some space in the workshop to bring the Harrison metal lathe home.


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## sawtooth-9 (8 Jul 2015)

Still working on the tree house, just finished the shingle roof and about to start the cladding in Cyprus pine log.
Am preparing Wadkin bed for spray painting, but have to wait for a little warmer weather. It does get VERY cold in Sydney in winter !
Will post a few pics of tree house stages soon


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## sawtooth-9 (23 Aug 2015)

Have finally finished the tree house. It took a little longer than expected as this was a great opportunity to introduce the kids to working with wood.
The tree house was built on a platform on four posts to the ground, as the tree was too small to support the structure.
The roof was done with cedar shingles and the walls clad with cyprus pine log.
The three grand children are in the tree hose whenever they can, and it is very special to them because they helped to build it.
A few pics below.
Now that the weather is starting to warm, I will soon be able to start spray painting the Wadkin !


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## wallace (23 Aug 2015)

That is a mighty fine tree house.
I recently got the dating info for wadkins and your lathe is from 1953


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## sawtooth-9 (24 Aug 2015)

Hi Wallace
Thank you on both counts.
We are now in for a solid week of heavy rain, not great for spraying !


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## heimlaga (24 Aug 2015)

That's a nice lathe!


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## Eric The Viking (24 Aug 2015)

Like the green colour you have chosen.

If/when you get a gap bed rest, it would be great to see how it fits. I was loking at the pics and struggling to work it out.

Tree house - briliant. Occupants evidently delighted, too.


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## sawtooth-9 (13 Nov 2015)

It's been a long time since I have been able to get back to the Wadkin. Plenty of interruptions including closing down a company, and starting a couple of new ventures !
Have recently bought a Schaublin 13 mill, which came out of a medical research facility and is almost new condition.
So decided the Harrison lathe should come up to the same condition. It's completely stripped and about to be re sprayed.
Once the Harrison is painted I can relocate it in the workshop and finally get access to the Wadkin !
So the Wadkin project is still going, just delayed.


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## sawtooth-9 (19 Jan 2016)

At long last I can get back to the Wadkin restoration !
Have rebuilt the Harrison lathe and sorted out the Shaublin mill.
I started this project quite some time ago and painted the motor and base plate with a single pack epoxy paint ( green ).
after this paint curing for around six months, it still does not have a good hard feel and can be scratched with your finger nail. Having completed the Harrison lathe with a two pack epoxy ( ex USA ), which has an incredibly hard and non brittle finish, have decided to do the Wadkin in the two pack system ( Hardnose paint from PPC coatings ). Believe this is available in UK, not cheap but worth every cent ! ). I was unable to obtain or blend a suitable green colour, so have mixed a deep slate blue / grey, which I think suits the machine better. Therefore I will need to re paint the motor and base plate.
Have just completed the painting of the headstock and the inside of the headstock has been done in a deep red ( hard nose paint ), much like the original red oxide.
The speed change mechanism is ready to fit, and once the motor and base plate are done, I can fit the spindle with new bearings.
Will post some pics of progress, including some from the delay .


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## sawtooth-9 (19 Jan 2016)

Below are the added pics, looks like they show up in reverse order


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## wallace (19 Jan 2016)

Nice work, in my past restorations I've used machinery enamel which is great for drying times. You can handle and assemble parts the day after. The downside is it is quite brittle and if it gets a ding it chips down to primer. Can you do a walk through with lots of pics when you do the bearings. RS lathes came with different bearing installation depending on age. I'm not sure but some of the later ones had to have pre load set on the bearings.


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## sawtooth-9 (19 Jan 2016)

Hi Wallace
Will post pics of bearing installation.
There will be no Pre load for this Wadkin, the inboard bearing is a plain
bearing and the outboard bearing is a self aligning plain bearing. They have defined seating positions determined by their position on the inboard side. The outboard position is either very accurately machined or has a small degree of float.
Usually, preload is required on timkin type tapered bearings.


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## sawtooth-9 (19 Jan 2016)

I forgot to mention that this paint is really very hard ! But it also is so tough you can belt it with a hammer and it will not chip.
It is usually wise to allow about 4 days to fully cure but you can assemble within two days


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## wallace (19 Jan 2016)

Do you know if the epoxy can be mixed up to a RAL code and can you get it a semi gloss


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## sawtooth-9 (20 Jan 2016)

Hi Wallace
Best to look at the USA site. www.por15.com/HARDNOSE
They do only 15 colours, so no, they are not making to the European RAL system.
Their products are aimed at the auto / agricultural market.
Whilst their colour range is limited, they are carefully chosen to enable quite a range of colours with careful blending.
The colour I have blended for the Wadkin is light blue(5 parts) with black (1 part ). This works well because their black is a blue back.
These paints only come in a high gloss.


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## sawtooth-9 (21 Jan 2016)

Today I put back the speed change mechanism, and installed the new flat belt.
The flat belt is a continuous belt, with no metal joiner, so that will eliminate the slap that normally occurs with this drive.
Also put one of the plaques on the electrical door, after respraying the black background and polishing the bronze lettering..
Have now prepared both the motor and base plate for re spraying to the new colour.
Because my garage floor has a slope, I have now sorted the adjustable feet, and will fit these tomorrow so I can finally take the headstock off it's pallet. Once this is done, I can proceed to fit the spindle and new bearings.


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## Phil Pascoe (21 Jan 2016)

That link to Hardnose doesn't work.


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## sawtooth-9 (21 Jan 2016)

Should work, but suggest you just google " hard nose paint " or " ppc paints " and that should give you a live link.
If you have trouble, I can email you the Australian and USA site.
If you can blend colours, this is the best paint I have used in over 40 years !


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## Phil Pascoe (21 Jan 2016)

My apologies - it works fine if you just hold on to be rerouted.


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## sawtooth-9 (25 Jan 2016)

Yesterday, we fitted the spindle so have included detailed pics, as requested. Today, the motor and base plate went in and will test run the headstock assembly tomorrow.


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## sawtooth-9 (25 Jan 2016)

Because one can only add 10 attachments at a time, the remaining pics are below.
These should have appeared as the first, so will know better another time


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## wallace (25 Jan 2016)

Thanks for that. Did you have to put new bearings in? The original would have been SKF or Hoffman depending on what number your lathe is. You can always tell when some ones been inside before because they use a chisel to knock the split nut around


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## sawtooth-9 (25 Jan 2016)

Hi Wallace
The original bearings were Skefco ( SKF )( inboard end ) and Hoffman for the self aligning outboard end.
the inboard bearing was run dry and a bit noisy, so I decided to replace all bearings.
I think these were original bearings and there was no damage to the inboard split nut.


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## edcstephens (27 Jan 2016)

sawtooth-9":37rszr3k said:


> Spanner to remove and apply the split lock nut to the motor shaft




I've just bought an RS 6, with a few bits missing. I need to order a new belt, and would like to use a continuous one so am removing the spindle and cleaning the bearings at the same time. I have a couple of questions, and please excuse my terminology as I'm a woodworker not an engineer!

1. The top pulley has a hole where I'd expect to find a grub screw, but there doesn't appear to be a screw in there. Is this usual, as the bottom pulley definitely has a grub screw with an allen head.
2. The split lock nut looks clean and undamaged, but I can't seem to get the collar off which presumably needs to be removed before the lock nut (I've removed the small grub screw on the collar) any advice as to how I remove this? I'll probably have a spanner made for the split lock nut.
3. Do the bearings come out with the spindle, or are they a tight fit into the casting?

Thanks in advance!

Ed


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## sawtooth-9 (28 Jan 2016)

Hi edcstephens
Glad you have opted for a continuous belt.
I have just fired up the headstock yesterday and it just runs so much smoother and quieter with a continuous belt.
When I removed the old belt, I had to guess how much stretch there was, but it looks like I have made the belt about 1 - 1/2 inch shorter than I should. I will compensate by placing a 3/4 inch "packer" under the lifting point, which will make the speed change much smoother.
To answer your questions :
1 I also found that there was no grub acre in the top pulley, but checked the hole to find that no thread had been tapped. I was tempted to tap a thread, but decided that it was not really necessary.
2 The collar in front of the split nut is an easy slide fit. It can be a little difficult to remove due to solidified grease. Once you are sure you have loosened the grub screw sufficiently to clear the indent in the spindle shaft you can GENTLY tap a small screwdriver between the collar and the split nut. Another approach is to insert the spindle locking pin in the outboard end, insert an allen key into the grub screw and gently tap the allen key with a small hammer. Grub screws are easily replaced, so if the collar is really stuck, its the grub screw you can sacrifice.
3 Once te collar and split nut are removed, you can remove the outboard bearing cover. This may require a little leverage, but will come free. There are two bolts and two dowel pins. The dowel pins may come with the flange or remain in the casting. This does not matter.
Having removed the outboard cover, you can tap out the spindle from the inboard side towards the outboard side. As you do this, the short spindle spacer will drop out and as you continue, the top pulley will drop down. As soon as the spindle is clear of the pulley, the spindle can easily be remover from the outboard end. The front ( inboard bearing ) will remain in the casting, and the outboard bearing will either come with the shaft or remain in the casting. Simply, gently and evenly punch out each remaining bearing. They are not tight.

Assembly is easier. Fit the outboard bearing to the spindle against the spindle shoulder. Slide on the long spacer. Insert the key in the spindle keyway. Start to insert the spindle into the casting, and fit the top pulley as you slide the spindle in. Once the pulley is in, continue to insert the spindle and tap in the outboard bearing until it seats against the casting shoulder. Then from the inboard end, you can slide the short spacer through the casting. Then fit the outboard bearing cover and insert the spindle locking pin. Once the spindle is locked, you can tap in the inboard bearing, fit the split nut and finally replace the front collar. Sounds a bit involved, but quite simple and logical.

Hope this helps. 
What parts are you missing for your RS6 ? and are you based in UK and where did you find the RS6 ?


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## sawtooth-9 (28 Jan 2016)

Connected up the headstock to some power yesterday, and runs sooo smooth. The continuous belt is really worth it.
Have now cleaned up the bed having laid it on each side to sand back.
Then assembled the rear stand to the bed and added a front support, so bed is now ready to mask and etch prime.
Once this is painted, I will lift the assembled bed to the headstock, remove the front wooden support and bolt on


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## edcstephens (28 Jan 2016)

Hi Sawtooth,

Thanks for sending such a detailed reply; all questions answered!

I picked up the RS6 from Daltons in the UK....They've had it for quite a while and ended up selling it on eBay, so I think I got a reasonably good deal. I'm based in South Devon.

The machine and test numbers are: RS1047 34664 which I think dates it to 1949?

I'm not really missing too much. At some point the machine would have had the travelling slide tool carriage fitted but I'm not too worried about not having that. I have no faceplates but have asked Daltons about supplying them. I'd like to find a tool rest holder for when the gap bed is removed so will keep my eyes open on eBay unless you have any other suggestions?

Thanks again,

Ed


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## wallace (28 Jan 2016)

Nice work mate, I am so getting withdrawal from machine restorations. I cant wait to get stuck into my disc and bobbin sander


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## sawtooth-9 (28 Jan 2016)

Hi Ed I too am missing the tool rest holder for when the gap is removed. I think I might have to make this unless anyone on the site has a spare for sale. 

Can anyone on the site supply a dimensioned drawing ?


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## merlin (28 Jan 2016)

Hello Ed and Sawtooth,

I have 2 of the tool rest holders so can send you some dimensions, I have one for use and one spare but I am holding on to it until I can exchange it for a steady or 2 speed motor and switchgear ....

Merlin


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## wallace (29 Jan 2016)

Merlin you lucky so and so. Two of them tool rests. I found one at a machine dealers but he wouldn't sell. They are like rocking horse poo.


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## sawtooth-9 (29 Jan 2016)

Hi Merlin, would appreciate any sketch and dimensions you could supply. I doubt I will find an original in Aus. But will keep looking just in case. Thanks again.


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## merlin (29 Jan 2016)

Here's a few pickies.

If you need any more just let me know.

Cheers, Merlin


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## sawtooth-9 (30 Jan 2016)

Hi Merlin
Thanks so much, very much appreciated.
Not sure yet whether I will fabricate or make a pattern and have it cast.
Once the lathe itself is done, I will start on the tool holder and keep you updated on the progress.
Hopefully, Ed will be able to do likewise thanks to your efforts.
Cheers


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## sawtooth-9 (31 Jan 2016)

More work on the Wadkin today. Finally got to paint the bed, made easy because of the stand providing easy masking and spraying access.
Once paint has hardened, the whole bed assembly can be moved into place and bolted to the headstock. Will do this sometime next week.


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## dickm (31 Jan 2016)

That last pic makes it look like the basic structure of a LARGE New Holland or Landin tractor!


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## sawtooth-9 (1 Feb 2016)

One of the reasons I like to post on this site, is that informed comments are usually positive, polite and helpful.


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## sawtooth-9 (13 Feb 2016)

All the small bits have been stripped down to bare metal, etch primed and filled.
Tomorrow they will get their top coat.
Takes as much time to do all the small bits, as it does the main pieces !
Really looking forward to assembling the tailstock, saddle and apron.
Might post some pics if there is any interest, or just wait until the completed machine.


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## memzey (13 Feb 2016)

Pics please!


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## wallace (13 Feb 2016)

pics pics pics


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## sawtooth-9 (14 Feb 2016)

Painting of small bits done, but have to wait for paint to dry before picking out in deep red.
Will post pics soon.


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## sawtooth-9 (28 Feb 2016)

Have finally assembled machine and am just getting pics together.
Also, have bought a couple of VFD drives ( one for the Wadkin and one for the Harrison metal lathe )
I decided to add the VFD because this machine has only a single speed motor and there is insufficient speed range.

The motor I have is a dual voltage ( 220 / 420 volt ) three phase. It is 220 volt when configured in delta and 420 volt in star.
As I have a three phase supply ( 100 amps per phase ) I will leave the motor in the star configuration and input 415 volt three phase to the VFD.
If I only had a single phase supply I would configure in delta and use a VFD that could use a single phase 220 volt input.
Pics soon, and update on electrics


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## scosarg (28 Feb 2016)

This is the leaflet for it - if you want the manual let me know and I will send you a copy
http://scosarg.com//leaflets/Wadkin/Wad ... 0Lathe.pdf


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## sawtooth-9 (29 Feb 2016)

Thanks Scoscarg, thanks very much, but obtained the brochure and manual early up.
Both VFD are Allen Bradley ( USA ) and I will need to pick up a few bits before connecting up.
The electrics are a real fun part of the project and a "reward" for all the rest of the restoration work.


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## tool613 (29 Feb 2016)

Great documentation of the spindle bearing replacement. I need to do mine some time in the future. I think i will go with a ABEC 5 C2 clearance bearing for the deep groove with a phenolic cage and machined brass cage for the self aligning that's already a precision bearing. I don't mind the clipper lace belts and the click click sound they make. Its like i can hear the speed change from the VDF better. I just re laced the belt a month ago. Its the same leather belt from the 50s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkpmMIUsvGU


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## sawtooth-9 (3 Mar 2016)

Finally managed to get pics together and posted !


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## sawtooth-9 (3 Mar 2016)

The basic lathe is now completed, and runs like new !
In her previous life, she spent her time turning patterns from cheap timbers in a brake foundry.
Now she will be turning some of the most beautiful, exotic Australian native timbers such as Tasmanian Huon Pine ( beautiful honey gold in colour - probably the most rare timber in Australia ), Northern Territory Ironwood ( deep red, very hard with interlocked grain - polishes beautifully ), Brush Box ( hard and heavy with slight pink - brown tones ), Western Australia She Oak ( very rare these days, lovely amber colour with wavy grain ).
We are very lucky to have such stunning timbers available to us, but they are becoming difficult to source.

Currently, am making a set of turning rests, as there were only two short rests with the machine. Am also costing the high tensile steel to fabricate the gap bed tool rest and will then decide on fabrication vs casting from pattern.

The second hand Allen Bradley VFD units were both defective, so have decided to opt for a new TECO E510 series VFD.
This unit is IP 66, so will save me the time and trouble of obtaining an enclosure.

Will update as the last few additions are made.

Hope this post has been of interest and help to some.

My thanks go to others who have taken the time to post their restorations, and to those who have responded during this post.


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## wallace (3 Mar 2016)

Nice work there, I used an IP65 drive for the last RS I did. It looked pretty good


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## MusicMan (3 Mar 2016)

Nice job. Got my fingers twitching ...


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## wallace (5 Mar 2016)

I just noticed yours has the facility for off centre turning on the tail stock, I didn't know they did that on the 6". Also what are the adjustable feet like? have you tried it with them on yet. I only ask because if I put something big which is out of balance on mine it will make head stock move even though the thing weighs 700kgs.


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## sawtooth-9 (5 Mar 2016)

Hi Wallace
Yes, the tailstock can be off set. I had assumed this would be common to all the RS.
I have fitted adjustable feet because my garage floor has quite a slope. Have not turned anything large and unbalanced yet, but expect most turning will be on the small side. The wheels will fit in the gap i.e under two feet, and will be basically cut to shape before turning. The feet are M16 and are rated for 1000 Kg load each.

When you fitted your IP65 VFD, where did you locate the unit ? Did you attach it to the headstock or mount it away from the machine because of vibration ? Can you post a pic ?
I think I will mount the VFD unit on the wall and use a "remote" keypad located on the machine, but not sure where to place it that will look OK.
Think I will use the original contactor to supply power to the VFD and run the VFD output directly to the motor through a shielded cable.
Did you link an emergency stop to your VFD so the machine will ramp down, rather than coast to stop ?


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## wallace (6 Mar 2016)

I made a little bracket for mine on the bed, it just hooked on and if you wanted to turn outboard you could hang it off a stand next to you. I doubt the RS would cause enough vibration to affect it. I didn't play around with it much before I sold it. I set a nice ramp down but I had no additional E-stops.


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## tool613 (6 Mar 2016)

love that One you did Mark. Very rare that make. I agree not much vibration . 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KW3gpYdhQAA


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## sawtooth-9 (4 Apr 2016)

Will post some pics of how the VFD has been fitted, soon.
Have just bought a Wadkin BRA 350 ( 14 inch ) radial arm saw.
Quote reasonable condition, for about £300 and will re build.
Not sure whether there is any interest, as there was not much feed back on the RS 6 rebuild.
Lots of "lookers" but may not have been much help to others ?
If there is any interest in the BRA re build, then I may start another thread


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## Fitzroy (4 Apr 2016)

All wips are awesome, I personally have found that just seeing what someone else has done gave me the confidence to have a go. The wip shows lots of the steps and the effort it can take. I'm sure I speak for many on here when I say thanks for you efforts on posting your wips even if we don't join in the conversation.


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## MusicMan (4 Apr 2016)

Very interesting, especially to Wadkin fans like me (AGS10 saw owner/user). Keep them coming!

Keith


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## sawtooth-9 (5 Apr 2016)

Hi Keith, after I finish the BRA I will be looking for a Wadkin rip saw.
Would like to find a BSW 16 or 20.
That will be fun to re build !


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## MusicMan (5 Apr 2016)

Sawtooth, that'll be a beast! Not something I cam fit in my shop. Look forward to seeing it though!


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## sawtooth-9 (15 Jun 2016)

Have been busy obtaining an 18 inch rip saw and re building a Wadkin BRA 350 radial arm saw.
Will post pics of VFD fitted to RS6 lathe etc soon


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## Benchwayze (15 Jun 2016)

sawtooth-9":1yer734u said:


> If there is any interest in the progress, I will learn how to post some progress reports and pictures.



Bring it on!


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## sawtooth-9 (15 Jun 2016)

Fired up the Wadkin Radial Arm saw for the first time yesterday.
Could hear the motor bearings spinning in the front and back housing. that's ok, but also heard the tell - tail cyclic grumbling that usually means that there is leakage between the phases.
Motor requires rewind and both bearing houses need to be machined out and bushed to suit bearing OD
So a weeks delay whilst I sort out these " irritations"


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## sawtooth-9 (16 Jun 2016)

Some pics of recent activity


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## wallace (16 Jun 2016)

Lovely work, my only criticism is the VFD looks ugly. Have you seen what Jack did with his VFD. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxcWs8-Y96c
I quite like multico stuff, I've got a 9" planer that gives good results.


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## sawtooth-9 (16 Jun 2016)

Hi Wallace
I looked at placing VFD in the control box, but there was no room, especially as I wanted to retain the original DOL contactor.
Most decent VFD's available here were also too deep to fit within the control box.
Located where it is, it is very handy for speed adjustments.


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## Vann (17 Jun 2016)

sawtooth-9":20y7zhjy said:


> Located where it is, it is very handy for speed adjustments.


But not quite so handy if you were to do some outboard turning* (hammer).

Your pictures of the tool rests are very timely - I acquired a piece of steel for a shorter rest for my Wadkin RT this week. It might be a weekend project (if other things don't take priority :roll: ). Thank-you.

* outboard turning isn't even an option on the RT.

Cheers, Vann.


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## sawtooth-9 (28 Jul 2016)

Soon to post a few pics of some figured Tasmanian Tiger Myrtle coupled with some brass turning.
Not an exercise with the RS6 but using both saws and the Harrison lathe to machine housings for the ball and needle bearings.


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## sawtooth-9 (30 Jul 2016)

An interesting little project, just to get back into the "swing"


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## Harbo (30 Jul 2016)

Looks very nice and lovely work but what is it?

Rod


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## sawtooth-9 (6 Aug 2016)

Working with combining wood and metal has led me to realize that I need a metal lathe with a greater speed range than the Harrison provides. Today I bought a Colchester Student 1800 which has been in storage since 2002.
Needs complete re build, which is probably not a topic for this site, but will result in the culmination of a rather good workshop.
Expect to get this machine home this week and make a start on restoration before some major surgery. A few weeks recovery and then back into the projects.


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## wallace (6 Aug 2016)

We do have a metal work section so get it posted


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## Random Orbital Bob (6 Aug 2016)

dam right


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## Brian18741 (6 Aug 2016)

Love this thread, thanks for all the effort in posting! Great rebuild, imthe lathe turned out great! 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


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## happymadison1978 (8 Aug 2016)

Read this entire thread with total enthusiasm. Thank you so much for posting, between you, Wallace and a couple of other members inspire and simultaneously make me feel very ordinary! :-D

I would also love to see the Colchester rebuild, an MCL (albeit much less grand) is on my want list.

Thanks

Stephen


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## sawtooth-9 (8 Aug 2016)

Hi Brian & Stephen. Your comments are too kind. I really like the Harrison lathe, but it's just too slow for some of the smaller work. I expect to have the Colchester here on Thursday ( bit of a challenge getting it up the STEEP driveway and unloaded ). The lathe needs to be stripped, cleaned, painted and any worn "bits" repaired or replaced. I do know I have to pop the middle shaft in the headstock and replace the end bearings. Some goose put shielded bearings in, so it really didn't get any oil. You can hear the bearing balls have "flats". Other than that the gearbox is remarkably quiet.
The lathe hasnt had a hard life and has been in storage since 2002


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## sawtooth-9 (11 Aug 2016)

The "Beast" arrived today. Took 2 hours to assemble a 2 ton gantry and lift off the truck.
Whilst the Harrison has been great, the Colchester Student is a big step up in capacity and flexibility.
It's also a big step up from the Colchester Bantam I had 25 years ago.
Lathe came with 3 & 4 jaw chucks, traveling steady, faceplate, drive plate and tooling.
Will post some pics once I remove the worst of the crud.
Based on the machine number ( 4- 0002 00863 ) looks like it was late 1973 or early 1974
You don't have to be mad, but it helps !


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## dickm (11 Aug 2016)

Is there an emoticon for "lathe envy"????


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## Brian18741 (17 Aug 2016)

Love a good WIP. Can't wait to see more pictures!


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## Phil Pascoe (17 Aug 2016)

One more post to go, Brian ...


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## sawtooth-9 (25 Aug 2016)

Well, I did replace the bearings on the middle shaft ( shaft D ) and re assembled. 
The result was elimination of the bearing noise, but the "tapping" noise was still there - just much clearer !
Spent a few happy hours with a torch and mirror looking for the culprit, but was elusive ! Damn !!!
So decided to pull all the shafts and have a good look.
The only possible cause I could see was that a gear on the bottom shaft ( shaft E ) was able to move axially about 0.5 mm and made a tapping noise. This gear should have no axial movement as it is held firm against the middle bearing which is located by an external circlip.
So .... Decided to surface grind the bearing side of the gear about 2 mm and make a ground spacer to take up the slack.
The gear was ground because it extended past the end of the spline and thought it best to have the ground spacer a reasonable thickness.
A complete set of FAG bearings will go back into the headstock this weekend and will take some pics to post next week.
Hope this works, or I will post a few expletives !!


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## sawtooth-9 (28 Aug 2016)

Replaced all shafts with new bearings, and the gear on shaft E now has no axial movement.
Darn... Blast ... Etc !
Still have the same clear tapping noise !
The noise "goes away" at the high speed range, but is quite distinct at the lower speeds.
It's so clear that you would expect to be able to locate it easily, but it does not transfer to any bearing mount, shaft or the headstock casting ??
Does anyone have experience at this problem or any pointers to help diagnose the problem ?
Not much point in posting pics of an unsuccessful "repair" !


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## sawtooth-9 (3 Sep 2016)

Decided to fully strip the headstock gearbox ( including spindle and gamet bearings ) to do a full diagnostic.
One would think that a very definite and clear tapping noise would show wear or bent shafts, but nothing has shown so far. 
Cannot find any info on the net where someone has had / solved this problem on a square head student.
Have the drive and intermediate shafts out again and will remove the spindle tomorrow. This will enable me to remove one gear from shaft D which will not come out between the casting web and spindle. This is the gear that spins on shaft D and provides the drive to the front spindle gear. It spins on a bronze bush which I suspect may be quite worn ( bronze particles in bottom of gearbox ). It is too difficult to gauge the wear until I can remove the gear and test on the shaft.
Patience is only a symptom of insanity !


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## MickCheese (3 Sep 2016)

This is a great thread. I am very aware how much additional work goes into producing and writing all these posts. I've really enjoyed reading it even though I have no intention of trying to emulate your efforts.

Well done and thank you. 

Good luck with the last bit. 

Mick


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## sawtooth-9 (3 Sep 2016)

Thanks MickCheese, this one has really challenged me. But I don't give up easily !
Will post some pics when I " discover" the cause .


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## sawtooth-9 (6 Sep 2016)

I think the cause is " discovered "
Removed all shafts again and set these between centers on the Harrison lathe.
Found that both the "D" and "E" shafts had been bent by about 5 thou and careful inspection of the wear pattern on the 16 tooth gears was quite uneven. The result is the gear is running out of true, enough to create the tapping sound. There is evidence that this lathe has had a crash, so a bent shaft or two is not that surprising. The diagnosis was complicated by the fact that the bend on the "E" shaft was on the chuck end and the bend on the "D" shaft was on the drive side. So it was really hard to pinpoint where the noise came from.
So, now looking in UK and NZ for replacement shafts, or I will get these made locally.
I really did not think 5 thou run out would be enough to cause such a defined noise, but these gearboxes must be machined to quite fine tolerances.


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## acewoodturner (6 Sep 2016)

Made in the days when engineers set the standards and not the accountants!


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## Random Orbital Bob (6 Sep 2016)

acewoodturner":12qylsdm said:


> Made in the days when engineers set the standards and not the accountants!



What an absolutely fabulous age that was in the history of Britain's makers. When the quality of the product and it's fitness for the job was the primary focus rather than whether or not the CEO or major shareholder would be able to upgrade their yacht! Don't misunderstand my rant, I'm no pinko by a long stretch, but I do lament the passing of a time when priorities seemed better aligned to me.

I watch Wallace's rebuild threads with a constant "drool" escaping the side of my mouth at these beautiful cast iron behemoths and feel that as a Nation we've really lost something, something important. Then the post arrives and I find the "metal" chimanea I bought from China is such thin gauge that if you make the mistake of waving it near a rain drop it will have rusted through before it's finished lighting! What a tit I was for being fooled into thinking it was a "bargain".

I know I know....the whole world wants to be "middle class"...lets not start the geopolitical debate about cheap labour etc etc......I'll stop ranting and do something useful.


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## Vann (6 Sep 2016)

Random Orbital Bob":3pae4mpn said:


> ....I'll stop ranting and do something useful.


Like go polish a Wadkin? (hammer) 

Cheers, Vann.


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## sawtooth-9 (10 Sep 2016)

Chased up some shafts ex UK. Ouch !!
They wanted Au$ 1380 + $200 shipping for one and $2100 + shipping for the other. Then add 10% GST and import duty. So would end up costing around $4000 for two simple shafts.
Have commissioned both shafts to be made locally including precision grinding for less than the cost of one shaft ex UK.
These Colchester parts suppliers are a real "rip off" . I don't mind paying a fair price but that was just plain silly.
Whilst I wait for the new shafts, have started stripping the lathe and removing the old paint.


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## Stanleymonkey (10 Sep 2016)

sawtooth-9":1euty5r4 said:


> Finally managed to get pics together and posted !




Just been browsing through this thread.

Beautiful machine and a stunning restoration.

Well done sir!


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## sawtooth-9 (10 Sep 2016)

Stanleymonkey, thank you, I just hope I can help some others along the way.


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## sawtooth-9 (13 Sep 2016)

Time to post some pics !


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## wallace (13 Sep 2016)

That looks a bit more complicated than a wadkin.


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## sawtooth-9 (14 Sep 2016)

All complicated jobs distill down to a series of simple jobs.


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## sawtooth-9 (7 Oct 2016)

After messing about with an Aussie gear cutter, decided to purchase shafts ex UK.
Found a very helpful supplier, who came in at a reasonable price, and delivery to Aus was really fast.
Installed new shafts but still have some gear slap, so have run a gear matrix to confirm my suspicion of the gears involved. As expected they are two gears that mate with the gears integral with the bent shafts.
Pulled the headstock down again today and am awaiting quotes and availability of these gears ex UK.


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## sawtooth-9 (10 Oct 2016)

Just ordered the two cluster gears. I think that's what you call a dollar ouch !!!
Had to remove the spindle to get one of the cluster gears out, but that was a good reason to inspect the Gamet bearings. They look to be good.
Will be interesting to re set the Pre load !
May post some pics of the spindle and bearing arrangement if there is any interest.


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## Vann (10 Oct 2016)

sawtooth-9":14i3rwz5 said:


> ...May post some pics of the spindle and bearing arrangement if there is any interest.


Lots of interest from where I'm standing.

Cheers, Vann.


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## happymadison1978 (10 Oct 2016)

Always interested to see this stuff, great work!

Thanks

Stephen.


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## sawtooth-9 (11 Oct 2016)

Having replaced the bent shafts, there was still a level of gear slap, so pulled the box apart, once again !


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## wallace (11 Oct 2016)

How do you work out which specific gear is worn?


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## sawtooth-9 (25 Oct 2016)

Finally put the headstock back together. Now has two new pinion shafts and two new sets of cluster gears.
Getting the spindle back into place was quite easy, although it took a few attempts to get the Gamet preload right.
She now runs "sweet".
Going in for a little surgery tomorrow, but should be back into it in a few weeks.
Next job is to complete the bed & headstock painting, then start the feed box.


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## sawtooth-9 (2 Nov 2016)

The liitle surgery had a couple of complications and the operation lasted a marathon 7 1/2 hours. Ended up a bit sore, bruised and generally beaten about. However managed to escape last Saturday and have been recovering much better at home. Soon will start looking at some of the lighter bits of the Colchester to get back into the "swing"


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## Vann (2 Nov 2016)

Get well soon.

I guess it was more than _9 sore teeth_ (a bad play on your handle "sawtooth-9")

Cheers, Vann.


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## sawtooth-9 (26 Nov 2016)

Have finally recovered enough to start working the Cholchester again !
Yes Van, 9 sore teeth would have been a lot easier.
Over the next week, should be able to do a little filling and masking in preparation for priming and top coat.
Cochesters are a bit like BSA motorbikes, tend to leak oil, so have remade all gaskets on the headstock and also applied a gasket sealant. Nice to keep the oil INSIDE the box !


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## sawtooth-9 (10 Dec 2016)

Had to have another bout of urgent surgery. Surgery went well, but complications in "recovery" and ended up with a pacemaker ! Alas, won't be welding and plasma cutting from here on in.

Will put myself on "light duties" for a few weeks, but had the Colchester and the stand ready to etch prime before surgery, so I should be able to make some progress soon.


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## Vann (10 Dec 2016)

sawtooth-9":35ky4nn1 said:


> ...and ended up with a pacemaker...


You'll have to pace yourself...

Sorry, bad-taste humour. I'm sorry to hear that your health is playing up, and I wish you a quick return to the workshop.

Regards, Vann.


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## sawtooth-9 (11 Dec 2016)

Hi Vann
What a "shocking" sense of humor, almost as bad as mine!


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## AJB Temple (11 Dec 2016)

Outstanding thread. Very interesting. Thank you


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## memzey (11 Dec 2016)

Get well soon mate. Take it to easy and enjoy the nice weather you are no doubt having in Oz. Would love to see some more pictures of the lathes when the time for that sort of thing comes.


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## sawtooth-9 (24 Jan 2017)

Well, it's taken longer than expected for recovery ! 
Still have a few issues before I get back to normal.
The Aussie summer heat is just a tad taxing, so we are thinking of moving to New Zealand.
So I really need to "pull my finger out" and finish the Colchester restoration ( on the cooler days ! ) just incase I need to pack the workshop into a container for the trip "across the ditch"


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## Vann (24 Jan 2017)

sawtooth-9":1cqg9iie said:


> ...The Aussie summer heat is just a tad taxing, so we are thinking of moving to New Zealand...


So what are you saying about our weather... (hammer) 

Actually, it's been [email protected] this summer. Down in Otago they had 300mm of snow last weekend - in the middle of Summer!

Cheers, Vann.


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## sawtooth-9 (25 Jan 2017)

That sounds a bit extreme, but guess it will keep the beers cool !
We were thinking a little further north - Banks Peninsula.
Wife is in NZ looking at property next week !
Sydney summer has been disgustingly hot this year !


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## sawtooth-9 (10 Feb 2017)

Recovery has been longer than expected and not sure whether I will ever regain the stamina.
Had hoped to do a little work this weekend, but we are having a bit of a hot spell ( 3 days at over 42 deg C ) so I think it will be a case of sit in front of the air conditioner.
I need to use the Harrison lathe to make a few parts for the Colchester, then sell the Harrison and make some space in the workshop.


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## sawtooth-9 (24 Feb 2017)

Have finally started to do a couple of "light duties" jobs on the Colchester.
It looks like the vee pulley is not original because the footbrake pad does not meet the pulley where it should. The pulley had to be moved towards the headstock by 1/4 inch. The rear of the pulley was bored out on the Harrison to accommodate the step in the drive shaft, and a special washer made to lock the pulley in place.
Checked that pulley diameter is correct by checking spindle speeds.
Also started the masking up, ready to etch prime ( subject to this crazy weather, eithe 40 deg C or raining ! )


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## wallace (24 Feb 2017)

We love pictures we do. :lol:


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## sawtooth-9 (7 Mar 2017)

Finally managed to get the first coat of etch primer on ( in-between the rain ! )
Need to do a little filling here and there and then start the top coats.
Will take some pics over the next couple of weeks to show progress


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## sawtooth-9 (16 Mar 2017)

just a few pics to add.

Today, managed to open up the feed gearbox and set to work cleaning up.
It is in superb condition, and I will only replace a few o rings.
Then assemble, paint and fit.


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## sawtooth-9 (28 Mar 2017)

Decided to open up the feed gearbox and check it out.
All looked to be in great condition with no undue wear on gear faces or bearings.
So replaced a few o rings and re assembled. Now re sprayed and fitted to machine.
Also fitted a new legend plate to the headstock, so looking much better.
Have started working on the saddle and cross slide.


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## sawtooth-9 (4 Apr 2017)

We made the decision to move out of Sydney some time ago, and after much searching we exchanged contracts on a small property about 560 Km north of Sydney.
Eight acres, lovely mud brick home and a large ( triple bay industrial shed ) workshop !
So now have to get the Colchester ready to move and consolidate all the workshop ready to transport - which is quite a job. Then have to get our current home on the market, so lots to do !
I will post a couple of pics of the new place if there is any interest, and some pics of the move - which is always an interesting exercise.


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## Bod (4 Apr 2017)

Oh yes, plenty of interest.

Bod


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## sawtooth-9 (4 May 2017)

You will have to be patient for pics.
A few new health challenges, leaving work, relocating etc 
It's the health challenges and the chemo which is a real pain in the .......
Will post again when I can.


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## sawtooth-9 (31 May 2017)

Just arranging quotes to move all the machinery to our new place at Bellingen.
Will take pics of the move and our new location for posting.
Have started the chemo and that tends to slow one down, but looking forward to setting up the new workshop.


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## Eric The Viking (31 May 2017)

Well done. Very glad you're hanging in there, and on the workshhop and lathe resto, we can be patient


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## sawtooth-9 (1 Jun 2017)

Hi Eric, thank you for your kind words. It's quite frustrating to have all these fun things to do, yet not be physically fit enough.
I will post a couple of pics of the new place, and what will become the new workshop.
Will also take pics of the move out of our current home, but will have to wait until we can join our son in Bellingen to show the new set up.
First job there will be putting three phase power on or sorting a 10 - 15 Kw three phase diesel generator.
Prefer to run the grid power, but as this is a rural property the cable runs will need to be fairly long and thick ( voltage drop ).


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## sawtooth-9 (1 Jun 2017)

Here are a few pics to go on with.
Tomorrow, I formally retire from the workforce and, as soon as we sell our current home in Sydney, will move to a small town in Bellingen - which is half way between Sydney and Brisbane.
It is an 8 acre property with a rather nice mud brick home and a good sized workshop.


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## Phil Pascoe (1 Jun 2017)

I'm jealous. Madly, insanely jealous.


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## sawtooth-9 (7 Jun 2017)

Just booked in the transport guys, for the move.
Two truckloads and a Franna crane should make some interesting pics.
Then the 500 Km trip north


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## sawtooth-9 (19 Jun 2017)

Finally have the workshop packed up and machines ready to load.
Was a bit more work than I expected, especially as I am supposed to be on "light duties"
Hope to get some pics to post soon


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## sawtooth-9 (20 Jun 2017)

Well, today was the day to relocate the workshop.
Lots of pics, so will add in no particular order.
The move went exactly as planned, because these guys had the right equipment.
Our driveway is rather steep, so it was not an option to use a forklift, hence the Franna Crane.
Not sure whether these are in UK or not, but are very useful as they pivot in the middle making them easy to get into tight spots. The crane itself weight 17 tonnes, and because we are lifting relatively light machines, the jib can be extended right out


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## sawtooth-9 (20 Jun 2017)

Second set of pics


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## sawtooth-9 (20 Jun 2017)

Lots of gear went on the two trucks, not shown here.
The job started at 7.30 am and finished just after lunch.
It will probably be at least six weeks before I can get to set up the new workshop


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## sawtooth-9 (27 Jun 2017)

For those interested, there are some more moving pics on the previous page ( page 11 )
Took a 500 Km drive up tp Bellingen in tha past few days, and did a little organizing of the new workshop.
Starting to look ok, with a bit more " working space "


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## sawtooth-9 (20 Jul 2017)

Have started to organize the new workshop, and will complete this over the next two weeks, when I next go to Bellingen.
I finally obtained a quote to have a third phase of power run to the property, and the energy provider wanted Aus $ 65,000 just to upgrade the transformer and run an extra cable ! Needless to say I did suggest what they might like to do with their quote and I have managed to buy a second hand Kubota 20 Kva three phase generator with only 283 hours on the clock. That will be delivered next Saturday and the Kubota tractor the following week.
I will post more pics on my return from Bellingen.


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## sawtooth-9 (29 Aug 2017)

If anyone is interested, I wil post some pics of the new workshop, three phase generator and farm machinery ?


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## Vann (29 Aug 2017)

I love to see pictures, especially of the workshop and contents.

Cheers, Vann.


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## Brian18741 (30 Aug 2017)

$65,000??!!! Wow! Sorry to hear about your health troubles but glad you're on the mend. What a hectic year for you! Thanks for continuing to update this thread as I think I speak for all of us when I say it elicits just the right amount of fascination and envy! Keep up the good work! 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


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## Phil Hansen (21 Sep 2017)

Thanks for all the posts and info.
Got a RS6 a few weeks ago and your info on bearing changes will help me a lot as the bearings are noisy.
Maybe just a good clean is all that is needed. Will only know when it is apart.
Also thinking that while the shaft is out to change to a multi 'V' drive system. Smoother and quieter.

Phil


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## sawtooth-9 (21 Sep 2017)

Hi Phill, not sure about changing to a V drive.
Whilst I had the shaft out, I replaced the original joined belt with a continuous belt - much quieter and smoother, plus I like the speed change action.
I did add a "modern" touch with the addition of a VSD, again, well worth the the extra effort. Cheers


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## sawtooth-9 (30 Sep 2017)

I had intended to post a few pics of the new workshop before leaving Sydney.
However I have had to move forward my moving date to tomorrow morning, so will have to delay posting of pics for a few weeks.


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## sawtooth-9 (23 Nov 2017)

Have not taken any new pics yet, because the workshop is still just packed with gear not yet organized.
We have had to spend most of the available time clearing overgrown vegetation with a back hoe as this needs to be done before the summer heat and expected "wet season"
Am really looking forward to wiring up the 20 Kva generator to a new sub board and getting the machines running.
Phill, did you go ahead with changing to a eve drive on your RS6 ? Have you posted any pics ?


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## sawtooth-9 (27 Feb 2020)

Have finally reached the point where I can continue the restoration of the Colchester.
Have rebuilt the apron and will start to assemble the carriage, cross slide and feed shafts.
Am trying to fit this in between maintaining the 8 acres of land through fires and flood, and building the small stone house for my son
I will take more photos soon and post these


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## sawtooth-9 (17 May 2022)

have just refreshed my details but the site has changed
How do I start a new thread ?


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## sawtooth-9 (17 May 2022)

Have made a couple of interesting devices for the processing of Alpaca fleece and twined knitting 
If I can work out how to do it, I will post description and pics
Would do this under a new thread - " Twisted "


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## sawtooth-9 (21 May 2022)

There has been a long gap, but can now refer you to my next project where you can see the Colchester- fully restored.
Have completed a few projects which require a little precision !
The thread is " Twisted "


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## clogs (21 May 2022)

Phil Hansen said:


> Thanks for all the posts and info.
> Got a RS6 a few weeks ago and your info on bearing changes will help me a lot as the bearings are noisy.
> Maybe just a good clean is all that is needed. Will only know when it is apart.
> Also thinking that while the shaft is out to change to a multi 'V' drive system. Smoother and quieter.
> ...


Phil Not sure where this is on the forum as I.m using s
an iPad instead of my prop computer….
Anyway I bought a Wadkin R6 that has had the V belt conversion and a new motor with a VFD…
if u want any photo's just ask….
Vann, on the forum (a Wadkin font of all knowledge) says mine is 1939 if I remember correctly
so should have had a flat belt orig….
I’m in the UK at the mo getting my pacemaker checked out but will be back home in a week…
Please ignore if this is no help…..
take care. Frank


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## Vann (21 May 2022)

clogs said:


> …Vann, on the forum (a Wadkin font of all knowledge) says mine is 1939 if I remember correctly
> so should have had a flat belt orig….


Clogs, can you give me the RS number again (or the test no.) please. Some of the dating info we had for that period has been revised, thanks to new information.

Cheers, Vann.


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