# Jewellers Bench - WIP



## Chems (30 Aug 2009)




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## OPJ (31 Aug 2009)

This looks interesting and shouldn't take too long to build, either! :wink: I hope it's small enough that she doesn't end up invading _your_ work space!!  (Then again, your workshop always looks large in your photos... :mrgreen


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## Chems (31 Aug 2009)

I have that angle covered, I'm keeping it Dusty and Noisy enough that she won't want to join me.

Hoping to have the table top finished in my next 4 day off period then start on a simple pine leg framing. Couldn't be working on this Iroko with out a good fine filter. Apparently the dust is carcinogenic?!


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## CHJ (1 Sep 2009)

Chems":1p2huiil said:


> ....... Couldn't be working on this Iroko with out a good fine filter. Apparently the dust is carcinogenic?!


Can cause *very* severe allergic reactions also, keep it off your skin as much as possible, as far as breathing is concerned also try to avoid any unseen volatiles that might be given off, these can pass thorough a normal dust mask.


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## wizer (1 Sep 2009)

I've been working with it a bit recently and I suspect it's affecting me. After I've used it I just generally feel yucky for 24hrs. That's with wearing an AirAce and barrier cream. 

Chems, I'm not sure I understand what that thing in the 2nd picture is. But couldn't you utilise a bench dog type system to hold it on the table? Or some other type of work bench hardware?


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## Chems (1 Sep 2009)

It doesn't seem to affect me at the time at all, but I'm aware of the risks and have been using dust extraction and when working with it intially I used my P3 filter mask as well. Got a lot of routering to do to it so will use the mask with that as well.

Basically wizer its like a tiny work surface all the work is done on, can't say exactly how you use it as I don't have any experience of using one, it fits into the side of the desk with the tenon you see and should sit flush with the top. Heres a picture of another one from google that includes an anvil top part:


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## Shultzy (1 Sep 2009)

Wizer, its like a "third hand" and is used by model makers to support the work while cutting, filing etc. I have one like pic two, the clamp is put through the back hole and then it clamps facing rearwards to a table top.


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## Setch (2 Sep 2009)

I built a jewellers bench for my brothers girlfriend a year or so ago, I'll try to get a photo for you. I used 2"x2" 'red hardwood' from the local builder depot for the frame, and an ikea 35mm beech worktop for the bench top. It looked pretty good once it was done, and was nice and rigid, whick is important - any wobbles are a PITA if you're filing or sawing.

Remember to make it high - 900mm is quite normal. Jewellery making requires a lot of work close to your face, so a high bench and low seat means you don't have to strain your back bending down to see tiny parts.


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## Chems (2 Sep 2009)

I'll be using some RedWood for the legs as well. 900m was what I read for height of it, going to try an build in a foot rest to the design and may even build the stool for it to out of some beech. Hope to get the glue up finished soon.


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## Shultzy (2 Sep 2009)

Chems, before you decide on the height do some tests with your other half to determine the optimum height for her. It might be better to decide on the chair / stool / seating position first and then work the other dimensions to fit.


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## Chems (4 Sep 2009)




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## OPJ (4 Sep 2009)

Wow, you must have used up a lot of glue! :shock: How did you find the adhesive took to the iroko? I've heard it can be oily stuff. Not as much as teak perhaps but, some prefer to wipe the surfaces down with acetone before applying the glue...

Sorry, I don't mean to concern you!!  I'm sure you'll be okay! :wink:


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## Chems (4 Sep 2009)

I glued the first batch over a year ago I think when I bought it from Corby in the summer. Its held well using just normal EvoStick woodglue. Probably what you've heard is true about the oilyness but as these are reclaimed bench tops that must have all dried out over time and the rest of the planks I've used have been drying since I sold my PT last year. 

Read through your bench build to see what you said about flattening the top and have just ordered that Tenon cutter you used of Wealdon as I'm sure it will come in use a lot over the years.


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## OPJ (4 Sep 2009)

Ah, yes, the Wealden tenon cutter - an excellent choice! 8)

You can cut across the grain to form tennons, wide housings or run rebates down an edge and the finish will be superb!  Just make sure you don't ever hit a stray screw or nail, these bits aren't cheap! :shock: :wink: Oh, and run your router on about half-speed, due to the diameter.


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## Chems (5 Sep 2009)

Will do Olly thanks, only have one day off on Monday so bit won't have arrived by then so won't see any progress till the latter half of next week


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## Chems (5 Sep 2009)




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## Chems (6 Sep 2009)




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## Chems (6 Sep 2009)




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## OPJ (6 Sep 2009)

Looks like you've done a great job of flattening the top. Only thing I would like to add is that I left a gap between the edges of the top and guide rails that your jig sits on. Otherwise, there's a risk that you'll wear away the running surface if you over-cut too often and your jig will have nothing to slide along. I use two scraps of MDF as spacers for this but, you seem to have done okay. :wink:

Nice to see the extractor getting plenty of use - I'm almost starting to miss it now!!  

Top's come out well. You can rarely go wrong with Danish Oil!


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## Chems (6 Sep 2009)

Thanks Olly!

I cut through the runners on the first pass so the router can sit outside the cutting area so to speak, the cut also really helps to show where to line up with. I think thats what you were referring to. The Vacuum is brilliant, it doesn't catch everything from router use which isn't what I expected but it does suck in all the fine dust that used to escape into the air. Makes a big difference. Still want to buy something for a plumbed in system that has so much suck it literally makes the shop airless. 


I also saved myself about £70 by making do with my half inch cutter not the wealdon and also by doing a double cut with the router for the half circle and saved on buying a deep pocket cutter.


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## OPJ (7 Sep 2009)

I was actually referring to the rails that your jig runs on, unless I've misunderstood your reply...!


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## Chems (7 Sep 2009)

I'm still not entirely clear what you mean, but the whole jig is one piece and it moves across the perfectly flat table below. Does that make any sense?


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## OPJ (8 Sep 2009)

Ah, now I see :roll: - you've done yours slightly differently to mine as you have a large, flat 'bench to reference off of (I didn't have this, at the time of building my workbench). So, you've what I call the 'jig' permanently to the rails... My rails were fixed to bearers running underneath the top and the 'jig' could slide freely along the top... 

Forget what I said before then, it isn't an issue with the way you've done it! :wink:


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## Chems (13 Sep 2009)




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## OPJ (14 Sep 2009)

Looks like a job very well done. That contrast is indeed quite interesting. How many coats of all did the iroko take, in the end?

Roubo... What, you're building a new workbench??? :shock:

I look forward to seeing that! :wink:


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## Chems (14 Sep 2009)

It only took one liberal coating for that colour. Knocked it back with wire wool.

Workbenches by Chris Swartz arrived last week an I've been reading it as I want to build a proper bench and I like the look of the Roubo so will have to break the bank an buy tons of beech and get on with it. Chris Swartz likes using yellow pine, but I've had enough pine for a lifetime!


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## OPJ (14 Sep 2009)

Normally, you'd want at least two-or-three coats of oil to start with... The first coat (and sometimes the second) will get soaked and almost act as a 'sealer' for the following coats, which will really add to the finish. The great thing about oil finishes is that they're very easy to maintain and apply anyway. You could always add more coats in future. :wink:

Beech is generally regarded as a good choice but, to be perfectly honest, it's not the most stable or durable of hardwoods... :? I only used it because it was one of the cheaper native species' available in the sizes I required! :wink: Maple is generally regarded as a better choice, if you can find enough and justify the cost... Saying that, European beech should be even cheaper than the English stuff and you won't normally have to waste loads of waney-edges and sapwood... _Steamed_ beech is generally available but, I have no idea how this differs to 'white' beech even though I've been meaning to find out for a while... :roll: My only thought (and I could be wrong!) is that it has been through a steaming process to improve stability... :?:

Again, I look forward to seeing this.  One of the guys from college made one not long ago. Richard Maguire also has his own take on this design, in hardwood. :wink:


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## Chems (14 Sep 2009)

I did apply it liberally because I thought it would drink it up, but it didn't at all, I think its something to do with it been so old. See what the others say who have been using the Corby Iroko.

That one from the College isn't a Roubo thats the other one from the book which I think he calls the old english workbench design. 

Defiantly beech for me its good an cheap!


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