# Lathe cleanup advice



## Stigmorgan (3 Sep 2021)

Hi guys, I'm finally ready to start cleaning up my lathe so I can start using it, it was 2nd hand from gumtree, the guy had it stored in a barn, it's not in too bad of a condition, a bit of rust on the tubular bed and other non painted parts, what would you guys suggest I use to remove / clean the rust, I have plenty of WD40 and hard plastic wool/scouring pads, are there any parts that would need lubricating and what lubricant would be best?


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## RichardG (4 Sep 2021)

The tubular bars need to be as smooth as possible otherwise the banjo and tail stock will be a pain to move, my blue variant CL3 bars are still nicely chromed and I still have to wax them to get the banjo to move smoothly. I'd try to spin the bars and then use different grades of paper until they are shining, finish off with some scouring pads and wax. See here for some ideas on cleaning up a tube. Startrite Mercury 10speed advice Otherwise just wrap the paper round the bars and go for it. When I cleaned up my old startrite drill I wrapped the tube in some towelling and vinegar...see Here

Probaby best to dismantle the tail stock and wire brush everything, if it still looks bad then you could try soaking the parts in some vinegar or other rust disolver. Grease and reassemble, make sure the morse taper is clean. Hopefully the centre currently fitted has stopped it rusting or it may be stuck fast, you need a long bar to poke through from the other side to knock it out. It may take quite a wack if its been there for a while.

The rest is cosmetic and some wire wool and wd40 or oil will clean it up.

The headstock bearings look to be sealed for life type so if they grumble they will need replacing, they're cheap and relatively easy to replace. I presume you've already run it but it should be smooth and quiet.

I'm not sure about the motor, I've certainly never lubricated my blue CL3 motor, nothing is mentioned in the manual.

Final job is to make sure the top of the tool rest is smooth, just use a metal file to clean it up.

The stand looks like it would benefit from a good wire brush, ideally one on a disk grinder or drill and then a coat of hammerite or similar.

There's loads of restorations on here so have a search and you'll find all sorts of ideas and solutions...


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## Stigmorgan (4 Sep 2021)

RichardG said:


> The tubular bars need to be as smooth as possible otherwise the banjo and tail stock will be a pain to move, my blue variant CL3 bars are still nicely chromed and I still have to wax them to get the banjo to move smoothly. I'd try to spin the bars and then use different grades of paper until they are shining, finish off with some scouring pads and wax. See here for some ideas on cleaning up a tube. Startrite Mercury 10speed advice Otherwise just wrap the paper round the bars and go for it. When I cleaned up my old startrite drill I wrapped the tube in some towelling and vinegar...see Here
> 
> Probaby best to dismantle the tail stock and wire brush everything, if it still looks bad then you could try soaking the parts in some vinegar or other rust disolver. Grease and reassemble, make sure the morse taper is clean. Hopefully the centre currently fitted has stopped it rusting or it may be stuck fast, you need a long bar to poke through from the other side to knock it out. It may take quite a wack if its been there for a while.
> 
> ...


Thanks Richard, it does run smooth unloaded, haven't tried it with a piece mounted on yet, the tail centre came out fairly easily thankfully, I guess my biggest worry is what I should and should not grease/ lubricate. The stand was made by the previous owner but as you say just need a good scrub, I have a huge tin of black hammerite paint that will sort the stand once I've cleaned it. 

Need to get a few bits for it too, would prefer a live centre for the tailstock rather than the dead centre, a 4 jaw chuck and possibly a bigger faceplate than the one that came with it, also need to replace the tailstock locking nut as it seems to be missing. Will need more gouges too eventually but I should be OK to get started with the 3 I have, spindle roughing, skew and bowl gouge, I picked them up at the oak fair last weekend.


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## Jacob (4 Sep 2021)

Friction on the rusty bars may not be a prob if you wire brush off loose stuff and apply grease. It depends on how much of the original surface is intact, a few pits don't matter.


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## Richard_C (4 Sep 2021)

Some chucks come as so called "kits". My record sc3 came with a set of jaws and a faceplate so you might not need to buy both chuck and faceplate. Recently I've been using a small block of hard beeswax to rub over things that need to slide, including the edge of the toolrest and the lathe bed. Quick, effective and it only goes where you want it and not beyond.


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## Stigmorgan (4 Sep 2021)

Richard_C said:


> Some chucks come as so called "kits". My record sc3 came with a set of jaws and a faceplate so you might not need to buy both chuck and faceplate. Recently I've been using a small block of hard beeswax to rub over things that need to slide, including the edge of the toolrest and the lathe bed. Quick, effective and it only goes where you want it and not beyond.


I have a faceplate but it's quite small so would like to get a bigger one even if it is only to make me feel safer with larger pieces. I'm not looking forward to choosing a chuck, there seems to be so many to choose from.


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## Orraloon (5 Sep 2021)

Those are quite good little lathes. I had one as my first lathe. Like yours it needed a scrub up but its not hard to do. As to faceplates the one on it looks big enough for most things you can do on it. I use hex head roofing screws to mount things on faceplates as they grip like anything and can be used over and over again. I would get a standard 100mm scroll chuck and sometimes they come in a kit with extra jaws and a faceplate ring. You can keep that if you later trade up to a bigger lathe. There are screw adapters so you can fit them to different lathes. A drill chuck on a No1 morse taper will also be handy so you can drill out things like pepper grinders, tool handles and well anything you can drill on a lathe. I found it a good lathe to get started out in turning. 
Regards
John


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## Richard_C (5 Sep 2021)

I've never thought of faceplate size as a limitation. As long as you are fixing into sound wood, bring tailstock up while you do the initial cuts to get it all balanced and the main shaping, it's not going to come flying off. By the time you get to the tenon or recess the hard work has already been done. 

Maybe I should worry some more.


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## Stigmorgan (5 Sep 2021)

Picked up some wire brushes and a couple of wire wheels for the drill today, hoping to fi d some time this week to start the clean up. Will start with the rails and see how clean I can get them.

Orraloon, I tend to strip stuff down when it's thrown out so I have buckets of screws, nuts and bolts, I'm sure I'll find something suitable to use with the faceplate, also need to find a bolt for the tailstock quill so I can lock it in place.

Richard, having spent 15 years in construction being responsible for onsite H&S I tend to be a little overcautious.


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## Orraloon (9 Sep 2021)

I also tend to keep odd bolts, screws and things for those kind of situations. Sometimes I am lucky and find something to fit.
Happy turning
Regards
John


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## Stigmorgan (10 Sep 2021)

Spent all afternoon today cleaning her up, the wire brushes I bought for the drill are too harsh for the rails so I used some 120 wet&dry and a ton of WD40 and I'll save the brushes for the stand, got the rails as clean and smooth as I could, there's a lot of pitting from use but I can live with that, I gave all the blue parts a wipe with a cloth sprayed with a little WD40 and put it all back together.
Next is the headstock end, Should I try and clean the bearings? They are a little stiff and do not free spin very well, I have WD40 copper grease and I have spray white grease, which would be best for lubricating the bearings?


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## Dalboy (11 Sep 2021)

If that model has sealed bearings it would be a good idea just to replace them at least you will know that they will last you


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## RichardG (11 Sep 2021)

I'm sure they're sealed bearings so agree with @Dalboy replacement is the way to go although if funds are tight just run it for a while, they may well free up but check they're not getting hot.

edit. Recordpower - Woodworking tools


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## RichardG (11 Sep 2021)

This may help in replacing the bearings. Record DML 24" Lathe. - www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk


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## Stigmorgan (12 Sep 2021)

Thanks guys those are both very helpful, there's no play in the bearings so will see how they go, good to know they are easy to replace.


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## Stigmorgan (14 Sep 2021)

Threw a block of pallet wood on and set to it with absolutely no idea what I was doing, the whole thing rattled and bounced around so I need to find a way to either bolt it down to the floor or increase the weight and rigidity of the stand. 100% need to sort dust extraction, I knew there would be dust but was not ready for so much of it, also need to make more space.

I'm not sure if I wanna show the finished item as it's pretty rubbish, the tools need sharpening, the roughing gouge did a good job but the bowl gouge and skew just didn't want to cut.

The face plate kept coming loose, anyone had this/know how to stop it?


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## Dalboy (14 Sep 2021)

Find a local club and join them worth the cost and you can find someone to help teach you which will save a lot of pain. Pallet wood not ideal to play with especially if you do not know what they were use to store on them, leaking chemical drums for example. Dust mask and face shield a must to start with.


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## Stigmorgan (14 Sep 2021)

Dalboy said:


> Find a local club and join them worth the cost and you can find someone to help teach you which will save a lot of pain. Pallet wood not ideal to play with especially if you do not know what they were use to store on them, leaking chemical drums for example. Dust mask and face shield a must to start with.


The pallets I keep are from our paper deliveries, I only keep the newest ones that are not marked up as having been treated.


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## Stigmorgan (23 Sep 2021)

So having managed to clean up the garage after the dust bath created by my first turning, dust collection is my next task along with sorting a sharpening system.

Dust collection, I have a machine at work that hasn't been used in years, its a Numatic meant for wet clean up but I figure it should do the job




What are your thoughts/suggestions?


Sharpening,
As my budget is pretty tight and there are a lot of things I want/need for my planned wood turnings I'm looking at the Screwfix Titan bench grinder as it has pretty good reviews and will be useful for other projects and jobs too.

In the meantime I need to make space in the garage so I can position and set up the vacuum, bench grinder as well as my scroll saw and band saw.


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## clogs (23 Sep 2021)

noticed ur question to late.....
in the past have changed really bad tubes for either galv or Stainless Steel.....
and before everyone moans about galv there are several grades....
rough as Bxxxxks for farm work and much finer.....

As for ur bearings, anything other than silky smooth just bin em....dont waste any time on them because they may be allright for a while but then they will fail soon enough.........


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## RichardG (23 Sep 2021)

I think you have to accept that turning generates a lot of waste and be prepared to clean up afterwards, just try and make the area as easy as possible to sweep up. You could try and capture the shavings but you'll need a HVLP type extractor, that numatic will fill its bag in minutes. The only time I use dust extraction is for sanding, the numatic will be fine fir that, but I do wear a mask all the time I'm at the lathe.


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## Stigmorgan (23 Sep 2021)

RichardG said:


> I think you have to accept that turning generates a lot of waste and be prepared to clean up afterwards, just try and make the area as easy as possible to sweep up. You could try and capture the shavings but you'll need a HVLP type extractor, that numatic will fill its bag in minutes. The only time I use dust extraction is for sanding, the numatic will be fine fir that, but I do wear a mask all the time I'm at the lathe.


The numatic is bagless and has a fair capacity, I'm not worried about the wood chips and shavings, just want to keep the dust covering everything in the garage to a minimum, and as you say, dust masks are a must, I have a few balaclavas with built in filter that I used to use under my bike helmet they should work well and are washable.


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## Orraloon (24 Sep 2021)

Stigmorgan said:


> Threw a block of pallet wood on and set to it with absolutely no idea what I was doing, the whole thing rattled and bounced around so I need to find a way to either bolt it down to the floor or increase the weight and rigidity of the stand. 100% need to sort dust extraction, I knew there would be dust but was not ready for so much of it, also need to make more space.
> 
> I'm not sure if I wanna show the finished item as it's pretty rubbish, the tools need sharpening, the roughing gouge did a good job but the bowl gouge and skew just didn't want to cut.
> 
> The face plate kept coming loose, anyone had this/know how to stop it?


I think the stand itself is the problem as there is no cross bracing on it. I notice a bolt hole on the top of the stand leg and I think it would have had two top rails. It just looks unstable as it is and really its the lathe thats supporting it. That and blunt tools would account for the faceplate shaking loose. Sharp tools are a must and as Dalboy said find a turning club and get the basics of woodturning. It's very enjoyable when things are working right but there are some learning curves getting there. 
Regards
John


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## Stigmorgan (24 Sep 2021)

Orraloon said:


> I think the stand itself is the problem as there is no cross bracing on it. I notice a bolt hole on the top of the stand leg and I think it would have had two top rails. It just looks unstable as it is and really its the lathe thats supporting it. That and blunt tools would account for the faceplate shaking loose. Sharp tools are a must and as Dalboy said find a turning club and get the basics of woodturning. It's very enjoyable when things are working right but there are some learning curves getting there.
> Regards
> John


The stand was made by the previous owner from scrap he had laying around, im going to add to it to make it more rigid. There is a local club that luckily for me uses a community centre 5 minutes walk from me so am looking to join them.


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## accipiter (24 Sep 2021)

Stigmorgan said:


> So having managed to clean up the garage after the dust bath created by my first turning, dust collection is my next task along with sorting a sharpening system.
> 
> Dust collection, I have a machine at work that hasn't been used in years, its a Numatic meant for wet clean up but I figure it should do the job
> 
> ...



For "cheap" dust extraction I used a Lidl's vac and set it up with a cheap Cyclone setup from Ebay using a bin to collect in to. You've probably seen the setup... feed from machine/tool goes in to the cyclone unit which is mounted on top of the "bin". Wood shavings/dust collects in that while the air drawn through by the vac exits from another side exit on the cyclone unit to the vac unit. Only fine dust gets through.

As for the bench grinder - have you checked the Screwfix reviews from *Low* to High rating or just started with the "high" 5 star ones? One thing I've found out today is that it's nigh on *impossible* to get spare parts. I need a riving knife for the Titan table saw (TTB763TAS), contacted Kingfisher - the supposed and *stated* manufacturer - only to be told by "their support" section to go to Screwfix... who are only a distributor. What I'm saying is be wary.


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## Stigmorgan (24 Sep 2021)

accipiter said:


> For "cheap" dust extraction I used a Lidl's vac and set it up with a cheap Cyclone setup from Ebay using a bin to collect in to. You've probably seen the setup... feed from machine/tool goes in to the cyclone unit which is mounted on top of the "bin". Wood shavings/dust collects in that while the air drawn through by the vac exits from another side exit on the cyclone unit to the vac unit. Only fine dust gets through.
> 
> As for the bench grinder - have you checked the Screwfix reviews from *Low* to High rating or just started with the "high" 5 star ones? One thing I've found out today is that it's nigh on *impossible* to get spare parts. I need a riving knife for the Titan table saw (TTB763TAS), contacted Kingfisher - the supposed and *stated* manufacturer - only to be told by "their support" section to go to Screwfix... who are only a distributor. What I'm saying is be wary.


I've seen a few YouTube videos building dust extractors/separators, I'll probably look into that when I have more space.


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## accipiter (24 Sep 2021)

Stigmorgan said:


> I've seen a few YouTube videos building dust extractors/separators, I'll probably look into that when I have more space.



Not aware of space you have although "small". My "workshop" area is 11ft x 7ft, has the table saw mentioned above, a lathe on a 4ft by 1ft stand, a 6ft by 28" workbench with a lift-up/drop down flap addition (5ft x 1ft x 1" MRMDF) attached. "Free" space between lathe and bench is very limited. Got scrap timber in two corners. The other corners have the table saw and the dust extraction... about 18" -maybe 21"? - square for that bit of kit. Bin and cyclone unit stacked above the vac. I've another space for wood and other storage that isn't workspace available. If space is limited look towards "stackability" options. Good luck on your choices


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## Stigmorgan (25 Sep 2021)

accipiter said:


> Not aware of space you have although "small". My "workshop" area is 11ft x 7ft, has the table saw mentioned above, a lathe on a 4ft by 1ft stand, a 6ft by 28" workbench with a lift-up/drop down flap addition (5ft x 1ft x 1" MRMDF) attached. "Free" space between lathe and bench is very limited. Got scrap timber in two corners. The other corners have the table saw and the dust extraction... about 18" -maybe 21"? - square for that bit of kit. Bin and cyclone unit stacked above the vac. I've another space for wood and other storage that isn't workspace available. If space is limited look towards "stackability" options. Good luck on your choices


Wow that's a lot  I'm starting to watch YouTube vids of small shop setups to get some space saving ideas.


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## accipiter (25 Sep 2021)

Stigmorgan said:


> Wow that's a lot  I'm starting to watch YouTube vids of small shop setups to get some space saving ideas.


I first set the space up for turning - I made Falconry blocks & perches... and other odd wood projects. Lathe, bench, grinder/sharpener and a drill stand - not pillar drill. 30 years ago. 
Now coming back to Woodwork and, like you, watching lots on YouTube for ideas on space saving. I'm taken by the bench units which swivel so machines can be swivelled under when not needed or in use. That's my aim for the lathe, Triton thicknesser and possibly a mitre saw. Router table at the side of the saw table. All combined as movable separate units joined as a bench unit on castors so I can put it in the middle of the shop or push to left or right as needed. Lots of ideas. 

Sorry for the rambling


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## Stigmorgan (25 Sep 2021)

accipiter said:


> I first set the space up for turning - I made Falconry blocks & perches... and other odd wood projects. Lathe, bench, grinder/sharpener and a drill stand - not pillar drill. 30 years ago.
> Now coming back to Woodwork and, like you, watching lots on YouTube for ideas on space saving. I'm taken by the bench units which swivel so machines can be swivelled under when not needed or in use. That's my aim for the lathe, Triton thicknesser and possibly a mitre saw. Router table at the side of the saw table. All combined as movable separate units joined as a bench unit on castors so I can put it in the middle of the shop or push to left or right as needed. Lots of ideas.
> 
> Sorry for the rambling


No apologies required, I saw a yt video a while back where the top was on a swivel and had bandsaw and scroll saw attached, it was quite impressive, the bandsaw is on top and the scrollsaw upside-down beneath almost bolted together with a piece of ply between them, when you want swap you release a catch that allows you to turn on a horizontal axis, putting the scrollsaw on top and the bandsaw beneath. (I think that makes sense)


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## accipiter (25 Sep 2021)

That's the idea . Seems to work quite well. Sort of thing I'll be working to.


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## Stigmorgan (1 Nov 2021)

So now that I have my lathe up and running and have dulled my tools to an unusable state I'm about to buy a bench grinder, originally I had decided on the triton bench grinder from screwfix as it is less than £50 but the more I think and read on the subject I've realised it won't be best option, so I've doubled my budget to around £100 and have narrowed it down to 2 machines, either the Axminster Craft AC200WSG or the Record Power 8" bench grinder, both have a 40mm wide wheel, both come with the same wheels, in fact the only real difference I can see is the colour, branding and £5 difference in price. Does anyone have any reason I should chose one over the other?


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## Richard_C (1 Nov 2021)

Haven't done the comparison, might depend on stock availability and carriage. I got an Axminster Bandsaw earlier this year. It had a problem with blade guide alignment and customer service was superb, sent me a new part no argument or delay. Sways me towards them. Record might be fine of course, I've no experience of their service.


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## skeetstar (2 Nov 2021)

I've got the RP one. I'm happy with it, runs smooth, seems well enough made for the money. The grinder ancillaries are plastic and basic, you going to have to buy or make your own jigs, unless you plan to sharpen free hand.


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## Stigmorgan (2 Nov 2021)

Jigs are something I will be getting/making, don't want to mess around freehand, also plan to get a can wheel eventually.


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## Phil Pascoe (2 Nov 2021)

The freehand route is so wasteful - why pay £65 for a 1/2" Crown cryo bowl gouge then grind it away two or three times faster than you need to?


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## Awac (2 Nov 2021)

Stigmorgan said:


> The numatic is bagless and has a fair capacity, I'm not worried about the wood chips and shavings, just want to keep the dust covering everything in the garage to a minimum, and as you say, dust masks are a must, I have a few balaclavas with built in filter that I used to use under my bike helmet they should work well and are washable.


I use a triton DCA300 dust collection bucket, works well and hardly ever have to change the fine filter in the henry hoover (like once a year!).


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## okeydokey (2 Nov 2021)

The bearings are sealed for life, unless the headstock spindle has noticeable movement leave it alone for now. 
On an aesthetic front even if the original stand was black (and if its a bit minor rusty go for red oxide spray can paint as a quick way of sorting that) go for a brighter finish colour a Record Power green or blue or something a bit bolder (yellow? - some of the Perform and Axminster lathes were yellow or white) doesn't have to be boring black.
Wax is good for keeping the bed bar action fluid and running the banjo up and down a few times helps rub off any remaining residual rush high spots. enjoy the lathe I had one as a first lathe years ago.


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## Stigmorgan (3 Nov 2021)

So today I ordered the Axminster bench grinder, I decided on this one over the Record Power because looking through the reviews for both, the Axminster is built with slightly better materials and with the discounts I was given it ended up at £94. I've also ordered record power SC3 chuck package from Yandles for £119.99. I should have them both by the weekend


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## Stigmorgan (4 Nov 2021)

Well, I'm absolutely amazed with Axminster, ordered my bench grinder yesterday at 14.30 and it has just arrived  can't wait to get it set up, now I need to get a jig made up so I can sharpen my bowl gouge.


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## Stigmorgan (4 Nov 2021)

Made a little something, just need to check my bowl gouge fits then once I've got my bench grinder positioned I can make up the rail and stop blocks.


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## Lazurus (4 Nov 2021)

Keep an eye out for a sorby 447 sharpening jig, its fast and accurate for repeatable grinds


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## Stigmorgan (4 Nov 2021)

Lazurus said:


> Keep an eye out for a sorby 447 sharpening jig, its fast and accurate for repeatable grindsView attachment 121205
> View attachment 121206


It's on my list, it's gonna have to wait a couple months though, with the grinder, chuck and other bits I've spent almost £300.


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## Robbo3 (5 Nov 2021)

Stigmorgan said:


> Made a little something, just need to check my bowl gouge fits then once I've got my bench grinder positioned I can make up the rail and stop blocks.


Now that you have made your gouge holder you need something to use it with. For a sliding vee arm King Heiple's Shop Built Jig is an easy build
- King Heiple's Shop-Built Jig - FineWoodworking
Your newly constructed gouge holder can't be used with the Sorby 447 but you could use your jig & vee arm on one wheel & the Sorby on the other.


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