# Bicycle chain "slipping".



## RossJarvis (22 Dec 2013)

On my Bicycle, which is just over a year old and not had a lot of use, the chain slips frequently, when going up hills whilst I'm standing up. This started a couple of months ago, with the odd slip and now it happens on every peddle push. So far I've not been able to observe closely what's happening as I find difficulty cycling up-hill standing up and looking at the drive-chain without falling off  . I've had a look on t'internet and the suggestions there seem to indicate chain or sprocket wear. The chain seems fine (forgetting the rust  ) with no tight links, or noticeable "stretch". The sprocket teeth, front and back seem fine, so I'm suspecting something up with the ratchet in the free-wheel. Anyone know of links or advice on how to investigate this and what to look for?


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## bellringer (22 Dec 2013)

RossJarvis":17h9f9fr said:


> On my Bicycle, which is just over a year old and not had a lot of use, the chain slips frequently, when going up hills whilst I'm standing up. This started a couple of months ago, with the odd slip and now it happens on every peddle push. So far I've not been able to observe closely what's happening as I find difficulty cycling up-hill standing up and looking at the drive-chain without falling off  . I've had a look on t'internet and the suggestions there seem to indicate chain or sprocket wear. The chain seems fine (forgetting the rust  ) with no tight links, or noticeable "stretch". The sprocket teeth, front and back seem fine, so I'm suspecting something up with the ratchet in the free-wheel. Anyone know of links or advice on how to investigate this and what to look for?




last time it happened on my replacing the chain and cassette solved everything but it could be something to do with the gears your in say if i was in 1 on the front cog and 9 on the back that would happen as there is to much slack


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## aideym (22 Dec 2013)

Firstly what sort of gears does the bike have? If there are more than one is there one it slips in more than the rest?
If you have a dérailleur system then there can be a number of things. If there is the slight indication of rust on the chain, then it might be that the gear cables are sticking or need re indexing. Also you may have a twisted link, which would still move ok but under pressure is would skip a tooth. A bent rear mech will also cause a ghost shifting effect. Check it is in line. The hubs can give way but this really isn't a usual thing on a lightly used bike. The best thing is to have it in to someone who does bikes. Failing that, replace the cables and chain, although I usually replace the rear sprockets when I do the chain as they wear in together.


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## tim burr (22 Dec 2013)

I would say it's more likely poor indexing of your gears, probably down to stretched/seized cables or the rear mech may have had a bit of a knock


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## RossJarvis (22 Dec 2013)

Thanks guys

It seems to happen when in top gear (6th) Only single sprocket on the front. As it's progressively worsened and was okay, I'm thinking adjusting the cable will be the simplest thing to start with. For the life of me I can't remember if I've had the same problem in 5th. I thought I'd tried this but now can't remember.


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## Jacob (22 Dec 2013)

What sort of bike is this with only 6 gears?
Sounds like freewheel prob. Most force is applied in bottom gear where it'll show first. Oiling might fix it - bike on it's side and flood oil into the hub, but if you've ridden it a lot with the slipping it's probably too late. Could be something else though.


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## bellringer (22 Dec 2013)

Jacob":21dodaaj said:


> What sort of bike is this with only 6 gears?
> Sounds like freewheel prob. Most force is applied in bottom gear where it'll show first. Oiling might fix it - bike on it's side and flood oil into the hub, but if you've ridden it a lot with the slipping it's probably too late. Could be something else though.



dont flood it with oil it needs grease if you put oil in it will replace the grease


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## clk230 (22 Dec 2013)

I would be surprised if its a cable problem. If its slipping this is caused by the chain no longer gripping the teeth on the cog ,the highest gear is more prone to wear as it has less teeth and a lot of people seem to use this gear more rather than spreading the load across the gears ,if your going uphill go down a gear .
You may be lucky and get away with just changing the chain but if the teeth have visibly 'sharpened'to a point on the rear freewheel/cassette then you will have to change this aswell , you will hopefully be lucky enough not to have to change the front chain wheel.


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## tim burr (22 Dec 2013)

As above, keep oil well away from the hub :shock:


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## clk230 (22 Dec 2013)

Jacob":31v4q2zy said:


> What sort of bike is this with only 6 gears?
> Sounds like freewheel prob. Most force is applied in bottom gear where it'll show first. Oiling might fix it - bike on it's side and flood oil into the hub, but if you've ridden it a lot with the slipping it's probably too late. Could be something else though.


 
why would oiling the 'hub' help a freewheel? these are two different components you can oil a freewheel ,but please never oil a hub this will need taking apart and greasing.

PLEASE NOTE THE ABOVE IS NOT WHAT IS CAUSING THE OP's PROBLEM.


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## bellringer (22 Dec 2013)

it is more likely to be the chain and rear cassette


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## tim burr (22 Dec 2013)

Really we need to know what sort of bike it is, what sort of gearing and what you're using it for to give us a bit more to go on. Is the chain actually slipping or is it skipping from one ring to the next which can feel a bit like it's slipping?
The OP said the bikes only a year old with not much use so unless he's been blasting it through some very gritty singletrack I can't really see the chainrings getting too worn.


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## Shrubby (22 Dec 2013)

This is simply wear on the transmission as clk230 said. I have fixed this on many bikes. The chain wears and elongates, wearing the front chainring and rear cassette/freewheel (dependant on bike age) teeth in varying amounts
The poor fit of the chain on the smaller diameter and more quickly worn rear cassette will cause the chain to slip around the teeth rather than mesh correctly especially when large forces are applied (standing up on the pedals) Best repair is to buy a new chain and rear cassette /freewheel - if the front chainring is alloy it will likely have worn to a sharktooth profile and wil need replacing too.
If you google Sheldon Brown he wrote a great website explaining all this gubbins very clearly
Good luck
Matt


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## RossJarvis (22 Dec 2013)

Jacob":uu7rejnt said:


> What sort of bike is this with only 6 gears?



It's one of these;

http://www.fudgescyclestore.com/index.php?p=206785

...and of course, being a Land Rover, it's poorly made (though I believe Pashley actually make them) and unlike a real LR it's rubbish off-road and on-road. However it is very good at sticking in car boots and getting on crowded trains.

The rear chain set looks like this;









Which seems to show little wear, apart from on the front corners of the smallest sprocket. The teeth seem to be machined in all sort of complex shapes, which I don't know if it's part of fiendish design or the cutting machine going crazy.

As mentioned it's not covered many miles so I can't see how the drive chain has worn to any noticeable extent.


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## clk230 (23 Dec 2013)

Land rover bikes are made in the far east ,the company was started by some ex Falcon/Cluad Butler staff ,they are not made by Pashley who make some very nice bikes.
your freewheel doesn't look worn (still could be) I notice you have removed the chain can you check to see if it is twisted by holding it up and eyeing it down its length ,the chain should run straight if its twisted this could be your problem.
The chain could also have worn very quickly as most cheaper bikes have rubbish chains fitted ,I would start be replacing with a decent chain a Sram one shouldn't break the bank.


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## Wood Monkey (23 Dec 2013)

Yay. At last a forum post that I feel I have some useful knowledge to share

I note you say you haven't use the bike a huge amount. My first comment of the picture of your rear cassette is that it does look a little worn, but not excessively. I'd expect a good service life from the 'robust' components used on this bike as they were not designed to be lightweight.

I'd suspect the issue is a combination of some wear poor set-up. The symptoms you describe exactly match a worn chain/cassette combination and often some gears are worse that other as those gears get more use and wear more.

Usually the chain goes first as it stretches and starts to ride high on the teeth and my bet is that this will be your issue. I change my chain every 2K miles and my rear cassette with every 4th chain. I lube it twice a week with white lightening clean ride. I ride a lot and maintaining my bikes is almost as much as a hobby as riding them.  

Step one is a new chain. Make sure you get a 6 speed compatible chain. It will probably be sold as a 6/7/8 speed compatible chain. If you can get a KMC chain with a magic link then go for that over a Shimano chain. Fitting a chain is really simple but you will need a chain breaker to get the old one off and, in the case of Shimano chains, install the joining pin for the new one.

Whilst the chain is off give the cassette and derailleur a good clean. I usually use WD40 to clean and then re-oil.grease where required. Once it's all back together go for a quick ride and go through each gear. If there is any clicking/ticking as you pedal then tighten/loosen the gear shifter cable (probably by way of a twist adjuster on the cable on the shifter end) until the noises stop. Make sure you can still shift to every gear. On indexed gear systems the adjustments are very small, but once you get it right they tens to stay in tune reasonably well.

The components on this bike are pretty cheap to replace. If you are going to do it yourself then the usual on-line gang (Wiggle, Evans, Chain Reaction Cycles) will have everything you need. Alternatively, seek out a local bike shop and put some business their way. A good mechanic can make any gear system zing.

Good luck.


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## Jacob (23 Dec 2013)

bellringer":33azjzat said:


> Jacob":33azjzat said:
> 
> 
> > What sort of bike is this with only 6 gears?
> ...


Definitely oil if it is an old style freewheel and not a sealed cassette. Grease is OK on the bearings but not the ratchets as if neglected it holds dust and thickens up, but worse - in very wet weather it can turn into a thick emulsion and clog up the ratchets. I know this from experience - sitting under a cherry tree in Portugal in a torrential downpour after several wet days of touring and having to dismantle the block and clean everything off with meths and put it back together in the pouring rain with greasy fingers - all those ball bearings and little springs! Cured the slipping problem. I had greased it well before we set off - a mistake.
In fact I'd start by flooding white spirit through, to clean it out.
Chain wear - easy to check without taking it off the bike - the pins (new) are exactly 1/2" apart so if you put a 12" ruler up to it the first and last pin will be exactly 12" apart. If the chain has worn to 12 1/8" it's due for renewal.


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## bugbear (23 Dec 2013)

RossJarvis":368ije28 said:


> Thanks guys
> 
> It seems to happen when in top gear (6th) Only single sprocket on the front. As it's progressively worsened and was okay, I'm thinking adjusting the cable will be the simplest thing to start with. For the life of me I can't remember if I've had the same problem in 5th. I thought I'd tried this but now can't remember.



When you say "top" gear, do you mean the biggest spocket at the back, or the smallest?

Since you're talking about going up hill, I assume you mean biggest sprocket (i.e. lowest gear, easiest peddling). Could you confirm/deny?

In any case, with light use, and no obvious wear, my guess is that you're falling between two gears (due to cable stretch in the gear mech). If the gears can be put in friction mode (not index mode) this could be easily checked.

It could be a faulty freewheel, but IME that's rarer.

BugBear


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## RossJarvis (23 Dec 2013)

bugbear":2at0x1pr said:


> When you say "top" gear, do you mean the biggest spocket at the back, or the smallest?
> 
> Since you're talking about going up hill, I assume you mean biggest sprocket (i.e. lowest gear, easiest peddling). Could you confirm/deny?
> 
> ...



By top, I mean the smallest sprocket, hardest to pedal. If I use the largest sprocket, my feet go round and around a lot for little gain in forward progress.

Upside down, the gears seem to be working fine across the range, with no "ticking" in top. There appears to be no wear in the chain or tight spots. The links match perfectly along a 12" rule, which is the longest I've been able to find (I've bought a zillion tape measures and can never find them!!!   ). As I've not ridden more than 400 miles and probably nearer 200 since purchase, I'd be surprised if anything had worn. The chain seems a bit flimsy compared to chains of old, so I wouldn't be surprised if that is c**p (although I think chains may have lightened up a lot since I last bought a bike in 1986). The bike itself is a curious mixture of good and rubbish parts slung together.

Maybe I now need to get a new chain. Haven't got a clue where my bicycle chain splitter's gone, the only one I can find is for my DID 520s!!


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## clk230 (23 Dec 2013)

have you checked the chain for twist ?


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## RossJarvis (23 Dec 2013)

clk230":1wqoqv0o said:


> have you checked the chain for twist ?



Not finding a chain splitter, I'm waiting for the weather to look up so I can get the rear wheel off in the garden. By taking the tension out, the "free run" across the bottom appears to be hanging straight, but this is only about 12-18" so you can't see much.


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## Jacob (23 Dec 2013)

clk230":clwq82wg said:


> have you checked the chain for twist ?


I've never heard of anything like "chain twist" in 50 years of cycling and fiddling with hundreds of bikes. I suppose it would be possible as accident damage or if your chain drops and jams behind the chain wheel, but I've never had a twisted one.


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## Jacob (23 Dec 2013)

clk230":363lfv3o said:


> Jacob":363lfv3o said:
> 
> 
> > What sort of bike is this with only 6 gears?
> ...


I meant the hub of the freewheel so to speak. OBVIOUS I THOUGHT, AND NO NEED TO USE CAPITAL LETTERS.


bellringer":363lfv3o said:


> it is more likely to be the chain and rear cassette


It isn't a cassette freewheel - you can see in the photo.


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## clk230 (23 Dec 2013)

Jacob,

I've done a bit more that fiddle with bikes unless working on a member of Team GB's bike could be classed as fiddling  .

twisted chains exist


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## Shrubby (23 Dec 2013)

A new chain from Sram or kmc should have a magic-link so a splitter is something to borrow just to get the old chain off (or improvise - hacksaw etc)
The other cause of skipping in top gear is overshifting where the mech pushes the chain beyond the smallest sprocket and it rides outside the teeth - this is cured by adjusting the H limit screw on the derailleur - this is rare on an indexed gear bike as the float built into the top pulley normally stops it happening
Matt


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## Jacob (23 Dec 2013)

clk230":xstqkvz7 said:


> Jacob,
> 
> I've done a bit more that fiddle with bikes unless working on a member of Team GB's bike could be classed as fiddling  .
> 
> twisted chains exist


I imagine Team GBs bikes won't have had old style freewheel blocks for many years, so fiddling with heaps of crappy neglected bikes is probably a more useful experience in this case!


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## clk230 (23 Dec 2013)

Jacob ,

i know you like to have the last word ,but I have vastly more experience in this area than yourself and have worked on crappy bikes right up to the very top end .So please don't ruin this thread for the OP .

Ross,
Theres some good advice on this thread if you read between posts lol.


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## RossJarvis (23 Dec 2013)

clk230":2un9cvhw said:


> Ross,
> Theres some good advice on this thread if you read between posts lol.



Yes, thanks for all the help everyone  . I'm just waiting for the weather to improve to get it upside down in the garden. Think that'll be March


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## Jacob (23 Dec 2013)

clk230":3qcctpom said:


> Jacob ,
> 
> i know you like to have the last word ,but I have vastly more experience in this area than yourself and have worked on crappy bikes right up to the very top end .So please don't ruin this thread for the OP .
> 
> ...


FFS what are you talking about? I am just telling our OP of what I've experienced in the hope that it might be helpful, and I am getting contradicted from various people looking for a disagreement AND SHOUTING IN CAPITAL LETTERS. YOU ARE ruining the thread!

I repeat - old style freewheels can seize (or otherwise fail to function) due to lack of maintenance and may need cleaning out (white spirit or paraffin) and oiling (not grease it may cause a problem of it's own). I've done this many times. Next step is to dismantle it. 
It may not be our OPs problem of course - it may be something else. Or it is very probably too late as he has been hammering the ratchets for some time.


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## bugbear (23 Dec 2013)

Jacob":o4yq8wxo said:


> FFS what are you talking about? I am just telling our OP of what I've experienced in the hope that it might be helpful, and I am getting contradicted from various people looking for a disagreement AND SHOUTING IN CAPITAL LETTERS. YOU ARE ruining the thread!



You will just have to accept that on a public forum you will bump into opinions different from your own. That's the whole idea, you shouldn't be surprised. 

BugBear


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## bellringer (23 Dec 2013)

Chian can get twisted easily and Jacob i don't play with road bike so i don't work with the type of free wheel he has. Now go away and stop annoying people


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## Jacob (23 Dec 2013)

bugbear":buwm00xp said:


> Jacob":buwm00xp said:
> 
> 
> > FFS what are you talking about? I am just telling our OP of what I've experienced in the hope that it might be helpful, and I am getting contradicted from various people looking for a disagreement AND SHOUTING IN CAPITAL LETTERS. YOU ARE ruining the thread!
> ...


I haven't expressed an opinion here at all - I've just detailed a problem than can occur with free wheels, and a simple solution. And a fact - that I have never encountered a twisted chain. I have no idea why anybody should take exception to these dull little items of information.


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## SteveF (23 Dec 2013)

i assume the rear adjuster isnt twisted ?

or the chain is too tight \ too loose?

Steve


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## clk230 (23 Dec 2013)

Jacob,
The symptoms expressed by the OP would not point to a sticky freewheel ,if the freewheel is jamming the chain will pucker up and jam .
the advice given about oiling hubs could/was misread and could have ruined the OP's rear wheel hence the capital letters.


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## Jacob (23 Dec 2013)

clk230":1d8b8zgn said:


> Jacob,
> The symptoms expressed by the OP would not point to a sticky freewheel ,if the freewheel is jamming the chain will pucker up and jam .
> the advice given about oiling hubs could/was misread and could have ruined the OP's rear wheel hence the capital letters.


It could point to sticky ratchets not engaging due to gunge/rust whatever. This is a common problem with neglected bikes (OP mentions rust) with freewheels (not cassettes) and you'd get the symptoms described. 
Oiling the hub of the freewheel is perfectly good advice - in fact essential as the old style of hub (as per OPs photo) has no seals. 
The only misreading was your own, as you don't seem to realise that a freewheel has a hub, which is not the same hub as the wheel hub. Have a look at an old bike you will see what I mean.


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## clk230 (23 Dec 2013)

Jacob ,

Why why why do you have to have the last word !

I guarantee I know more about bikes than you , but you crack on and try to argue the fact your right , when in this case you are wrong.

To the OP -the symptoms you gave will not be caused by a sticky freewheel.

Happy Christmas to all


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## Jacob (23 Dec 2013)

clk230":32c5uh5e said:


> Jacob ,
> 
> Why why why do you have to have the last word !
> 
> ...


Could be caused by sticking ratchets. Simple fact. Oil might be the answer. clk230 is wrong.

I quite understand that you hadn't spotted it as an old style free wheel - they aren't that common any more. I haven't had one on a bike of my own for about 15 years. It was a 5spd Suntour block on a Campag Record wide flange hub on a 1965 Mercian Superlight frame, all scrapped now.


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## clk230 (23 Dec 2013)

think about if the ratchets are sticking the bike will act like a fixed wheel ,this does not give slipping symptoms.
Don't presume I hadn't noticed it was a freewheel as it had to due to the age and being 6spd and they are still very very common .

Simple fact is life is to short to argue with you.

To the OP pm me for any advice.


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## Woodchips2 (23 Dec 2013)

Ross, I've got no experience of bikes but I wonder if it's more fundamental going back to the wood store and Hobnobs project. You seemed to work very hard and maybe you stretched a fetlock and your legs are no longer the same length. Perhaps get the apprentice to check you out or better still build a dog cart and give up the cycling :lol: . Cycling seems a bit like sharpening, it all ends in grief :roll: .

Merry Christmas and look forward to a new humorous WIP next year. 

Regards Keith


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## Jacob (23 Dec 2013)

clk230":gohnzulc said:


> think about if the ratchets are sticking the bike will act like a fixed wheel ,this does not give slipping symptoms.
> Don't presume I hadn't noticed it was a freewheel as it had to due to the age and being 6spd and they are still very very common .
> 
> Simple fact is life is to short to argue with you.
> ...


This could run and run! 
Ratchets do stick, and fail to engage. I know this, I've seen it, I've fixed it, it happens often with old bikes left out in the rain etc. etc.
The fact that this is news to you doesn't make it any less true. Do you think I make up this boring b**llox or have hallucinations! This is ridiculous!


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## clk230 (23 Dec 2013)

Jacob FFS I'm not saying freewheels don't play up and yes I've come across it and repaired / replaced them , but the fact remains they do not cause slipping .
I don't think you make stuff up what I do know is you won't admit your ever wrong and have to have the last word ,its no wonder people don't bother posting when your involved which is a shame as you do have a lot to offer .


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## bellringer (23 Dec 2013)

Jacob":3oxzewc5 said:


> clk230":3oxzewc5 said:
> 
> 
> > think about if the ratchets are sticking the bike will act like a fixed wheel ,this does not give slipping symptoms.
> ...



well stop commenting then


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## Jacob (23 Dec 2013)

clk230":3l7japbc said:


> Jacob FFS I'm not saying freewheels don't play up and yes I've come across it and repaired / replaced them , but the fact remains they do not cause slipping


Yes they do. 
If the ratchets don't engage the block can spin or jerk round. If it isn't attended to soon enough it knackers the ratchets and you need to replace the whole block
Anyway Ross just give it a few squirts of oil it may be the answer. Always best to try simplest things first.
And whatever the cause these old freewheels need regular oiling as they have no seals.
The other thing is to avoid standing on the pedals in top gear - change into a lower gear and save maximum effort until you are in bottom and have run out of gears. Unless you are a sprinter / body-builder etc.


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## clk230 (23 Dec 2013)

Spinning or jerking round is NOT slipping ! the freewheel is not old and all modern 5 & 6 spd bikes still use them some 7spd will as well (referring to the rear wheel).so not sure why you keep referring to them as these old freewheels.


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## RossJarvis (23 Dec 2013)

The Eriba Turner":2baywc02 said:


> Perhaps get the apprentice to check you out or better still build a dog cart and give up the cycling :lol: .
> 
> Merry Christmas and look forward to a new humorous WIP next year.
> 
> Regards Keith



Thanks Keith, strangely enough I was considering the next project to be a cart, won't tell you what the "apprentice" had to say about that, "aint enough hob-nobs in the World Gran'dad" was part of it though


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## billybuntus (24 Dec 2013)

I see world peace is still some while away if we can't even keep calm over a bike chain.  

I had exactly the same issue and mine turned out to be a stiff link. Replaced the chain and voila. No more jumping or slipping.


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## Jacob (24 Dec 2013)

billybuntus":1hihpuef said:


> I see world peace is still some while away if we can't even keep calm over a bike chain.
> 
> I had exactly the same issue and mine turned out to be a stiff link. Replaced the chain and voila. No more jumping or slipping.


Stiff link usually fixed by a squirt of oil - and not leaving your bike out in the rain!


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## clk230 (24 Dec 2013)

We should just all submit to Jacob's superior knowledge on all things he comments on , I could comment about stiff links but Jacob would just shout louder so let him talk more rubbish maybe one day i'll know as much about bikes as he does lol .


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## Jacob (24 Dec 2013)

So, what do you squirt on your stiff links then? Some sort of secret remedy only known to world class bike experts? :lol: :lol:


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## Hivenhoe (24 Dec 2013)

RossJarvis":1m5z6bt4 said:


> On my Bicycle, which is just over a year old and not had a lot of use, the chain slips frequently, when going up hills whilst I'm standing up. This started a couple of months ago, with the odd slip and now it happens on every peddle push. So far I've not been able to observe closely what's happening as I find difficulty cycling up-hill standing up and looking at the drive-chain without falling off  . I've had a look on t'internet and the suggestions there seem to indicate chain or sprocket wear. The chain seems fine (forgetting the rust  ) with no tight links, or noticeable "stretch". The sprocket teeth, front and back seem fine, so I'm suspecting something up with the ratchet in the free-wheel. Anyone know of links or advice on how to investigate this and what to look for?



Have you tried the supplier, maybe a common fault although they probably won't admit it.
Also having a look here http://bicycletutor.com/guide/ might help?

Now if we can just get the children to play nicely or Santa won't be calling


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## RossJarvis (24 Dec 2013)

I think I've cracked it. Thanks for the help. It appears to be stretch in the cable. I approached the local, small hill and found this was happening in gears 3-4. I found the cable could be adjusted with a little collar and tightened it up and now there appears to be no slip. I'm waiting to recover before giving it a bit more of a test. One thing I've now noticed though, is that the rear chain set (sprockets) oscillate a bit in free-wheel, with the bike upside down. I.e. Get the rear wheel going, then hold the pedal still and the sprockets appear to rock around a bit as the wheel spins. Almost as if there's a bend in the axle. Don't know if this is anything to do with it.

Having taken the b****y thing back a couple of times, I've given up the will to live going near the shop I got it from. It's staffed by twelve year olds who appear to know nothing and are incapable of any form of effective remedial work what so-ever. Normally I'd try to stand up for my consumer rights, but with a number of other events over the past year I'm preserving my sanity by cutting my losses on this. Plus I've developed a strong feeling that most products these days are c**p and customer service is a completely alien concept to most organisations. I'm mightily fed up of fighting a no-win situation with the Capitalist System and intend to dig a burrow in the garden and stay there, feeding off of voles, nuts and discarded boxes of Southern Fried Chicken!!!


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## billybuntus (24 Dec 2013)

Jacob":2ts5ax2t said:


> billybuntus":2ts5ax2t said:
> 
> 
> > I see world peace is still some while away if we can't even keep calm over a bike chain.
> ...



I never leave my bike outside as it's too expensive to replace. Tried everything but the link was totally seized. Just happened all of a sudden halfway through my local 12 mile circuit. Pretty annoying.


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## Jacob (24 Dec 2013)

billybuntus":1t0fwka5 said:


> Jacob":1t0fwka5 said:
> 
> 
> > billybuntus":1t0fwka5 said:
> ...


You can spread a stiff link (force the outer plates apart) if you have the right chain tool but most of the time one wouldn't carry one.


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## bugbear (25 Dec 2013)

RossJarvis":d06n7ubv said:


> I think I've cracked it. Thanks for the help. It appears to be stretch in the cable. I approached the local, small hill and found this was happening in gears 3-4. I found the cable could be adjusted with a little collar and tightened it up and now there appears to be no slip. I'm waiting to recover before giving it a bit more of a test.



Ah - you were "between gears". Good to hear it's working again. Merry Christmas!

BugBear


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## RossJarvis (25 Dec 2013)

Sorry if it seems like an obvious solution to a simple problem but it's a long time since I last tinkered with a bike.


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## monkeybiter (26 Dec 2013)

And I was hoping this thread would last into 2014 :twisted: 

Still might though, the discussion seems to have a life separate to the problem/solution. :wink:


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## n0legs (26 Dec 2013)

Ok let's get this one to 2014.
Anyone else seen this one ?
http://gadgets.feedbox.info/wp-content/ ... ycle-1.jpg
http://gadgets.feedbox.info/wp-content/ ... ycle-2.jpg
http://gadgets.feedbox.info/wp-content/ ... ycle-3.jpg


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## RogerS (26 Dec 2013)

n0legs":1p0dhixo said:


> Ok let's get this one to 2014.
> Anyone else seen this one ?
> http://gadgets.feedbox.info/wp-content/ ... ycle-1.jpg
> http://gadgets.feedbox.info/wp-content/ ... ycle-2.jpg
> http://gadgets.feedbox.info/wp-content/ ... ycle-3.jpg



Where does the oil go?


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## RossJarvis (26 Dec 2013)

Hmm, where does the air go to blow the tyres up?


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## n0legs (26 Dec 2013)

RossJarvis":1xedvdyz said:


> Hmm, where does the air go to blow the tyres up?



I guess they must be some kind of semi solid airless tyres.




RogerS":1xedvdyz said:


> n0legs":1xedvdyz said:
> 
> 
> > Ok let's get this one to 2014.
> ...



I'll go out on a limb and claim it's got sealed for life, super duper tough as you like, last forever, never needs oiling, teflon based, back flatened on a waterstone, hollow ground, stropped on a fishermans belt, NASA designed, German engineered, gold plated, fur lined, ocean going, bestest ever, can't be beaten, Sheffield steel, longest family heritage, used by all the greats, wear resistant, heat treated in the sun, quenched in the tears of angels, bearings throughout.
I'd like to see someone "one up" me on that one 8)


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## RossJarvis (27 Dec 2013)

n0legs":2xj5h1zh said:


> I'll go out on a limb and claim it's got sealed for life, super duper tough as you like, last forever, never needs oiling, teflon based, back flatened on a waterstone, hollow ground, stropped on a fishermans belt, NASA designed, German engineered, gold plated, fur lined, ocean going, bestest ever, can't be beaten, Sheffield steel, longest family heritage, used by all the greats, wear resistant, heat treated in the sun, quenched in the tears of angels, bearings throughout.
> I'd like to see someone "one up" me on that one 8)



You missed out "lip-smacking, thirst quenching"


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## RogerS (27 Dec 2013)

And "the steel tunes are polished on the thighs of a dusky maiden" :lol:


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