# Up and running



## JFC (10 Jan 2007)

Well the electrician came around today and fitted the supply for my spindle moulder  The electrician and his apprentice hid behind the router table like little girls while i switched it on for the first test , i then joined the electricians behind the router table :-$ 8-[ I then spent the rest of the day switching it on and off and hiding behind the router table while calling forum members who delighted in telling me differant ways this machine can cut my fingers off :shock:


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## LyNx (10 Jan 2007)

nice one :wink: 

I have seen this happen, the kiddy didn't pay 100% and the inside of the fence had flesh and blood mixed in with the shavings. 

For some reason, he went a "dulux brilliant white" after that :?


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## engineer one (10 Jan 2007)

so this is the new way of feeding wood. throw it at the spindle moulder and then hide whilst you hope that it gets moulded :twisted: :lol: 

good luck and safe working

paul :wink:


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## Scrit (10 Jan 2007)

JFC":3haudzk0 said:


> The electrician and his apprentice hid behind the router table like little girls while I switched it on for the first test , I then joined the electricians behind the router table :-$ 8-[ I then spent the rest of the day switching it on and off and hiding behind the router table while calling forum members who delighted in telling me different ways this machine can cut my fingers off :shock:


What a bunch of big girls blouses you all were! :lol: When I were a lad it were mens tooling, square cutter blocks and slotted collars, real dangerous stuff, none of this namby pamby safety tooling nonsense...... Me? I haven't told JFC any ways to remove his digits on it - although I did describe a useful way to trim one's finger nails with a TCT rebate block :wink: 

Scrit


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## mel (10 Jan 2007)

ill bet you were waiting with wood in hand to put sommat through it 
have you moved the rest of the workshop about to accomodate it ??? 
oh and how is mr grimsdale coping with the router table that the spindle moulder replaced :lol: 

scrit 
we had a planer/jointer in the workshop that had a square cutter block 
when i were a lad 
bloody thing used to frieghten you to death with all the storys going about 
apparantly , they used to pull you in { now wheres that smiley being sick} 

jason 
use the fences and hold downs, concentrate , and enjoy


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## JFC (10 Jan 2007)

Paul , i'm thinking of adding 90% waste to my jobs , this way i can mould the end of a 3m lenghth and have a 2m offcut . Hows that for safety :lol: 
On a serious note , i do like to go over a whole machine a few times and also like to get used to the sound of it running before i go anywhere near it for cutting or what ever it's use is . Do others do this with a new machine or am i a bit odd :shock: 


P.S what's happened to the spell checker ?


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## engineer one (10 Jan 2007)

i knew there was madness in your method :lol: :lol: 

interested in your maths, 1 metre of a 3metre length :twisted: 

as for other question do you really want an answer :roll: 

mind you it is always interesting to hear noises when it's running light.  
paul :wink:


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## Anonymous (10 Jan 2007)

You must enter a message when posting.


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## wrightclan (10 Jan 2007)

Mr_Grimsdale":2eu0h75b said:


> Have you seen the film "Fargo" where the body was disposed of in a machine and squirted all over the snow?
> That was a spindle moulder. :shock:
> 
> cheers
> Jacob



I believe it was a wood chipper :shock:

Brad


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## Scrit (10 Jan 2007)

Mr_Grimsdale":ba2734cc said:


> That was a spindle moulder. :shock:


.....with a square cutter block :twisted: 

Scrit


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## engineer one (10 Jan 2007)

if i did not know you guys better i would think you were trying to tell us that a spindle moulder is dangerous even in the hands of someone sane???? :twisted: 

are you sure you wanted to know all this jason :?  :roll: 

paul :wink:


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## Lord Nibbo (10 Jan 2007)

engineer one":2ughuyrx said:


> if i did not know you guys better i would think you were trying to tell us that a spindle moulder is dangerous even in the hands of someone sane???? :twisted:
> 
> are you sure you wanted to know all this jason :?  :roll:
> 
> paul :wink:



I wonder if Jason has tested by screaming when the machine is running to see if he can be heard by anyone? :wink:


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## RogerS (10 Jan 2007)

nah...they'd think it was something he was listening to on the radio. Either that or his guitar playing


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## JFC (10 Jan 2007)

> What a bunch of big girls blouses you all were!



I will have you know i was the one that put his arm around the router table to turn off the spindle with the broom handle !


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## engineer one (10 Jan 2007)

actually jason what i am trying to figure out is where this spindle moulder is, and did your broom handle have a white flag on the end :twisted: :lol: 

unless after the fire you really emptied it, surely there is no room for the spindle moulder, a router table, you and the leckies????? :roll: :roll: 

paul :wink:


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## ProShop (10 Jan 2007)

JFC":13ikqd5l said:


> and also like to get used to the sound of it running before i go anywhere near it for cutting or what ever it's use is . Do others do this with a new machine or am i a bit odd :shock:


Just turn up the volume on the radio to match the noise of the moulder 

Wait till you have a 150mm X 100mm cornice profile cutter block on, you'll be hiding outside the workshop   

Enjoy


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## Marky (11 Jan 2007)

JFC Wote...


> On a serious note , i do like to go over a whole machine a few times and also like to get used to the sound of it running before i go anywhere near it for cutting or what ever it's use is . Do others do this with a new machine or am i a bit odd



You may be strange, but I do it also and to really add to the sadness, I used to do some long distance HGV1 driving and at night I would listen to the sound of the engine rather than the radio for potental changes in sound and subsequent problems....

Marky


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## Scrit (11 Jan 2007)

Marky":3n32kgr3 said:


> ......and to really add to the sadness, I used to do some long distance HGV1 driving and at night I would listen to the sound of the engine rather than the radio for potental changes in sound and subsequent problems....


Not sad at all. A change in engine note can and often does denote a potential problem. Or maybe I rode (pushed?) British bikes for too long.....

Scrit


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## Adam (11 Jan 2007)

Scrit":34xoqj8m said:


> Marky":34xoqj8m said:
> 
> 
> > ......and to really add to the sadness, I used to do some long distance HGV1 driving and at night I would listen to the sound of the engine rather than the radio for potental changes in sound and subsequent problems....
> ...



I also consider that normal. I picked up a problem from the water pump just by listening, and a host of other things. Bearing going in the gearbox etc.

Adam


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## dedee (11 Jan 2007)

JFC":11ig1w1o said:


> > What a bunch of big girls blouses you all were!
> 
> 
> 
> I will have you know i was the one that put his arm around the router table to turn off the spindle with the broom handle !



You'll need one of these then :lol: Remote Switches


Andy


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## ProShop (11 Jan 2007)

OK, on a serious note, the noise can be quite intimidating, especially when you have the profile cutters mounted as their shape disturbs the air so much.
In time you will get used to it (honest). 

I remember once in a workshop I worked in some years ago, we had a new 10hp spindle moulder installed. I say new :roll: it was new to us. Anyway when we had to make some deep skirting mouldings, the cutter block was huge and it took some lifting onto the spindle :roll: . And when it started up, it was a 2 stage start, the first stage seems okay it made a bit of noise (a bit like a lion cub with a sore throat). But when the second stage kicked in.... Well everyone in the shop ran for the exit :shock:  :roll: . It sounded like a full pride of adult Lions fighting over a very small breakfast :roll:   . Very scary  .


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## JFC (11 Jan 2007)

I bet that was funny to see :lol: 
Ive just run a few test peices past and its seems to be cutting lovely  
I think im going to need to invest in some more pressure clamps though . 
The pressure roller device on P67 of the felder catalougue looks good , any one use it ?


:shock: It's begun , i've just been on the phone to felder ](*,) ](*,)


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## Scrit (11 Jan 2007)

Most of the Felder safety gear, like those rollers for example, are actually made by a firm called Aigner. This American catalogue has a large part of their range - one UK distributor is Safety Training Woodworking in Cambridge, although firms like NLS should be able to supply as well

Scrit


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## JFC (11 Jan 2007)

NLS said they only do cutters , Safety training woodworking where suggesting the £700 system in your link Scrit . Then Felder offered me a spring guide thingy ( that ive been trying to get hold of for over a year ) For £20 . :roll: 
Anyway the spindle is great :tool: (hammer) I rebated stock for six windows in no time with no chipping :shock:


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## engineer one (11 Jan 2007)

does that mean your prices are going down :twisted: :lol: 

sounds good though mate well done,
just play safely :roll: 

paul :wink:


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## Scrit (11 Jan 2007)

Sorry about the NLS thing - I did meet someone from one of the tooling firms on Woodmex a few years back who reckoned they could get Aigner stuff. Though that was NLS - obviously wasn't.....

That £700 would be for something completely different. Get them to send you an Aigner catalogue and you'll get a better idea (or follow the link to the US site for the catalogue numbers). I thought that the £20 wheel set still required a mounting rail and mounting bracket as well as the wheel, or have I read the catalogue incorrectly? And the wheel doesn't give pressure support on taller pieces in any case. Why not just make-up some featherboards?

Scrit


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## JFC (11 Jan 2007)

Safety training said about £200 on the phone but when i followed your link it showed the thing safety explained to me at £700 . The £20 was just for a pressure clamp not the wheel set . 
I must say at this point , thanks for all your help Scrit .
I have started to make something up as i was getting a little concerned about not being able to see the cutter but seeing timber dissapear :shock: 
Pics to follow :wink:


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## Scrit (11 Jan 2007)

The link was to an American site where the prices are in dollars. They bear little relationship to the European prices, but I added the link to show the breadth of safety-related products available from Aigbner as opposed to the much smaller range from Felder

Scrit


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## JFC (11 Jan 2007)

I was thinking of bending a thin peice of timberaround the oak so there is some give in it but that may snap so im racking my brains for something i can put on the front that will hold the work and have some give :-k


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## DomValente (11 Jan 2007)

Don't get the spring clamp thingy, it's a wate of space.
I've used safety training and generally they are cheaper than Felder.
The gentleman from there,his name escapes me, arrived at my workshop with a trailer full of timber and many useful extras for my machine he then gave me a full days training,8 'til 6 on the machine and yes sold me a couple of items.
He was knowledgeable and an altogether nice chap. This was about 7 years ago and I think I paid £120.00.
Well worth it because without this basic teaching I'm sure disaster would have struck.
Have fun.Be safe


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## DomValente (11 Jan 2007)

Just read your last post Aigner do a very nice set of side pressure wheels that will do the job perfectly


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## Scrit (11 Jan 2007)

Jason

A couple of comments on that picture. 

1. The front Shaw guard piece needs a leaf spring like the upper one to be effective (for those who don't know Jason's front guarding is referred to as a Shaw, or in the EU "Suva", guard)

2. You really need to add plywood/hardwood fence plates to your cst iron fence plates which overlap a bit more at the middle - saves wear on the metal fence plates and makes it less likely that you'll end up "adjusting" a metal fence plate into a steel cutter. The wooden fence plates also make it easier to attach temporary jigs, guards, etc to the machine

3. For through cuts like rebates the horseshoe fence should be loosened and pulled right forward and the fence plates opened to give a generous gap. A through fence such as a piece of 9mm MDF of plywood is then screwed across the front of the plywood fence plates, the spindle started and the horseshoe fence carefully pushed back to plunge the cutter through it, making in effect a zero clearance fence plate. The horseshoe fence is then locked and fine adjustments made as required.

4. You also need a dust extraction box over the top of the fence. Heavy rebating generates a _lot _of waste

Scrit


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## Scrit (11 Jan 2007)

DomValente":1vetvz8z said:


> Just read your last post Aigner do a very nice set of side pressure wheels that will do the job perfectly


But he doesn't need them. All that's needed is a leaf spring for the existing Shaw guard

Scrit


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## ProShop (11 Jan 2007)

JFC, Would you like a pic of an actual leaf spring as Scrit suggests ?.
It would make your life so much easier & safer. You could quite easily make one.

The Felder pressure module is over £160 and only a single wheel type complete with clamp, but it's mainly used for curved moulding and imho it's not quite the thing you really need looking at your photo.


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## Anonymous (11 Jan 2007)

You must enter a message when posting.


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## JFC (11 Jan 2007)

Yes please all pics are very welcome , i just made that up with the bits i had . Did i get it right :shock: :lol:


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## DomValente (11 Jan 2007)

Scrit":3buf8p4q said:


> DomValente":3buf8p4q said:
> 
> 
> > Just read your last post Aigner do a very nice set of side pressure wheels that will do the job perfectly


But he doesn't need them. All that's needed is a leaf spring for the existing Shaw guard

Need!! Who said anything about need, he should want them, nay, desire them, they're so pretty


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## DomValente (11 Jan 2007)

Hmm, haven't got the hang of the quote thingy.


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## Scrit (11 Jan 2007)

DomValente":2noidyly said:


> Need!! Who said anything about need, he should want them, nay, desire them, they're so pretty


 :lol:


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## DomValente (11 Jan 2007)

Oh Thanks, I feel so much better now.


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## JFC (11 Jan 2007)

Before i forget http://www.daltonswmw.co.uk sell parts for old machines .


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## Jake (11 Jan 2007)

Dom Valente":21xjwhve said:


> Need!! Who said anything about need, he should want them, nay, desire them, they're so pretty
> 
> 
> 
> ...



What's up?


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## ProShop (11 Jan 2007)

Hi JFC, here some pics.


Hmmm no pic's loading, so here's the links

Here And Here


Hope this helps


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## JFC (11 Jan 2007)

Thanks , i think that is what felder are offering me for £20 . The spring and upright bar .


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## engineer one (11 Jan 2007)

have to say jason am beginning to think this is all a ploy, and what you actually have bought is an anti theft device :twisted: 

after you're break in and fire last year, seems to me this is the ideal piece of equipment to scare them even more than last time :lol: :lol: 

can't wait to see it working

paul :wink:


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## ProShop (11 Jan 2007)

JFC":f01g75my said:


> Thanks , i think that is what felder are offering me for £20 . The spring and upright bar .



I thought that was the case and not the pressure wheel. if you can make one or get hold of one it makes things so much easier and you'll have much better results.


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## JFC (11 Jan 2007)

I thought that when trying a crown moulding , the limiters i spose where trying to move the work away . Not a kick but i could feel it . It was fine just cleaning up rebates where i had taken most of the material away on the table saw .


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## Scrit (12 Jan 2007)

JFC":33x5jxrq said:


> I thought that when trying a crown moulding , the limiters i spose where trying to move the work away . Not a kick but i could feel it . It was fine just cleaning up rebates where i had taken most of the material away on the table saw .


If you can feel the limiters trying to lift the work away possibly either you're overfeeding or you need to raise the rotation speed of the cutter block. Your spindle moulder (the RS) has two speeds, 4500 and 7000 rpm, what diameter block were you running and at what speed. Unlike a router table feeds and speeds are much more important on a spindle. Incidentally you'll feel the "push-off" if the cutters aren't sharp or the limiters are too large as well

Scrit


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## DomValente (12 Jan 2007)

JFC, I have the spring and bar which I don't use I will PM you my number if you give me a call it's yours as I don't use it.


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## JFC (12 Jan 2007)

Thanks Dom  I've got to nip down to a boat yard today so i will try there first but thanks for the kind offer . Scrit , the cutters have had very little use so i think i can say they are sharp but ill check that . I think it was more to do with my feed method and not wanting my hands anywhere near the block :shock: 
It was running at "the belt came off and i put it back on RPM" :?


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## Scrit (12 Jan 2007)

JFC":996yy1io said:


> It was running at "the belt came off and i put it back on RPM" :?


Big motor pulley/small spindle pulley = 7000 rpm, small motor pulley/big spindle pulley = 4500 rpm on your machine. With a 100mm diameter block you should be running at the higher speed

Scrit


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## JFC (12 Jan 2007)

Ahhhhhhhhh thanks for that .


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## JFC (12 Jan 2007)

Hmmmmmmm I've just try to run it at 7000RPM and the belt keeps falling off :x Should there be a lip on the bottom of the spindle housing to stop it falling off ?


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## Scrit (12 Jan 2007)

No. To the left of the motor, near the top of the opening is a knurled knob - this adjusts the motor towards and away from the spindle to tighten the belt. If the belt cannot be tightenen any more (because the motor is fouling on the frame of the machine) then it's stretched - time for a new belt. As a short term solution you could also try either rosin (know anyone who plays the fiddle? They use it on the bow strings apparently) or a belt dressing spray such as that made by Rocol (try engineer's merchants)

Scrit


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## JFC (12 Jan 2007)

I cant see anything like you describe  Im wondering if its had its motor changed .
This is the only thing i can see in there .





The motor




What i thought you where describing as a greasing point with a grease nipple below it . It doesnt turn very far .


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## Scrit (13 Jan 2007)

JFC":2gf8v9vs said:


> I cant see anything like you describe  Im wondering if its had its motor changed .


That's a replacement motor, but it will still be mounted on some kind of pivot. If Brad will give me permission, I'll post a photo of the innards of his tomorrow.



JFC":2gf8v9vs said:


> What I thought you where describing as a greasing point with a grease nipple below it . It doesnt turn very far.


 .




The upper one is a Stauffer cup and the lower a grease nipple. Originally it would have had two Stauffer cups (one per roller bearing set). Unscrew the cup, pack with acid-free grease then replace - it won't screw on too far before you feel resistance. Give it 1/2 to 1 turn every day before using the machine. BTW you can still get Stauffer cups from some engineers merchants - yours will be a Whitworth thread.

Scrit


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## JFC (13 Jan 2007)

So the EBay description of it as 30 years old was the motor i assume .
I cant see anything that will move the motor other than undoing the motor housing bolts and pushing it over by hand but i also didnt see anything to say that would work either .


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## Jake (13 Jan 2007)

JFC":oihe5aht said:


> I cant see anything that will move the motor other than undoing the motor housing bolts and pushing it over by hand but i also didnt see anything to say that would work either .



What are the threaded rods in the first picture?


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## Scrit (13 Jan 2007)

JFC":6x1whs28 said:


> So the EBay description of it as 30 years old was the motor i assume.


The plastic top on the motor shouts 1980s or later to me, but could be late 1970s at a pinch I suppose. Prior to then even Italian alloy motors all seemed to have metal fan covers at the top. I just think they got their dating wrong. The machine was certainly made between circa 1947 (well, that's the earliest documented evidence I can find) and 1957 when the front plate became Wadkin-Bursgreen. The nice thing about these roller bearing spindles is they are very simple, repairable and have little to go wrong.



Jake":6x1whs28 said:


> What are the threaded rods in the first picture?


They come in from the end of the machine. The larger is the rise and fall drive, connected to a handle at the RH side of the machine. I think the smaller one is the rise and fall lock. Can you confirm, Jason?

Scrit


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## JFC (13 Jan 2007)

Top one is the rise and fall of the spindle that the cutter block sits on and the bottom one is to lock it off .


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## engineer one (13 Jan 2007)

jason, without really looking are you sure the motor is not mounted rather like an alternator, and that you can crank it over slightly???

and what do the threaded rods do??

paul :wink: 
worryingly looking at what scrit says it's even older than me, and you know how knackered i am :lol:


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## JFC (13 Jan 2007)

Paul , how the hell would i know how an alternater thingy is mounted :lol:


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## Scrit (13 Jan 2007)

engineer one":pipdxxii said:


> jason, without really looking are you sure the motor is not mounted rather like an alternator, and that you can crank it over slightly???
> 
> and what do the threaded rods do??


That's what I've already said, more or less. Why not wait until I can post photos of another same-model spindle moulder tomorrow? I'm working on one tomorrow....... The motor is a foot-mounted type and mounts vertically on a plate casting with the pulley at the bottom. The axis it pivots on is vertical but is hidden out of sight behind the motor to the right. Ebery spindle I canrecall using has had an artrangement like this (although bear in mind I've never used something like a Wadkin EQ with the double-rotor motor)

We've already explained what the threaded rods do - both of us....... Although i got there befor Jase  



engineer one":pipdxxii said:


> worryingly looking at what scrit says it's even older than me, and you know how knackered i am :lol:


I have a bandsaw older than myself, a table saw older than I am and quite a few other vintage" pieces of kit - they all work better than I do and in addition less bits have dropped off over the years :roll: 

Scrit


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## JFC (13 Jan 2007)

Blimey Dom , that was quick  Thankyou very much .


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## engineer one (13 Jan 2007)

sorry scrit did not make the connection.  

jason i know that your cello looks like a motor mounted vertically, so consider that as a possibility, as for alternators, no wonder you drive a volvo :lol: :twisted: 
paul :wink:


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## DomValente (13 Jan 2007)

Your'e welcome Jason, hope it does the job.

_thinks; "I've heard that comment somewhere before , but with irony,just cant remember where."_


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## JFC (13 Jan 2007)

I had to file a little out of the hole to get it to fit but nothing major . 
Thanks again Dom


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## Scrit (13 Jan 2007)

Jason

That's a lot better! I went over and "played" with Brad today (perhaps I need to rephrase that  ), and this is one thing we mocked up - bit rough but it was just to try the concept, y'know (top guard for horseshoe fence) - "before" and "after" views:











This one was made from offcuts of 18mm MDF which make it a bit chunky. I'll do a SU drawing later/tomorrow and post that as well (BTW we also fixed a front piece onto the box which can be seen further down this post). The auxilliary fence plates shown here were incorrect and I replaced them later with the proper ones. The guard currently clamps on using a pair of quick action cramps, but I'm working on it..... :wink: Note the auxilliary fence plate tacked to the front of the wooden fence plates - this is a sacrificial "zero-clearance" fence which helps support the work in straight moulding work.

Brad doesn't yet have a Shaw guard so we made-up the quickest and crudest featherboards you've ever seen, but it did work.....






A bit rough and ready, but this was really just a working mock-up. The final item should be a lot swisher. Here we are running a groove, 12mm deep x 6.3mm wide in a single pass at about 1.5 to 2 metres/min feed rate. We used one of my TCT-RT vari-groovers, shown here below with an Omas wobble saw. The wobble saw proved to be too big for the BRS fence so we couldn't try it.






The varigroovers are really useful: disposable carbide tips so you don't loose the tool for resharpening and you can dial in 0.25mm increments/decrements in width much quicker than fiddling with shims (but then I'm so convinced I have three different ones ). This one is a 4 to 7.5mm wide groove cutter and it will do up to a 30mm deep groove in one pass - try that with a router.

Oh, and as to the question about the belt tensioner, take a look at how your machine would have looked before the new motor was fitted. Can you see the knurled steel knob to the top left of the motor? That's the tension adjuster:











Later on after I've had me tea I'll post a few piccies of the tooling we were playing around with :lol: 

Dcrit


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## JFC (13 Jan 2007)

Ahhhh you meen the thing i thought was missing it's nut :roll: 




I like that sliding carrage , it looks very simple to have made .


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## Scrit (13 Jan 2007)

Jason

How many bolts are there holding your motor on? There should be four but I can't see any of the two I'd expect to see on that side of the motor. I thought you'd need two bolts on that side holding the motor onto a swing plate AND also the adjuster.

Scrit


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## JFC (13 Jan 2007)

Scrit , there is two the other side and one just below the pic , thats why i thought there was a nut missing untill i got inside it and found no thread . I called the guy i bought it from today and he said there is something about 10mm that i need to turn to adjust the speed . Im assuming this is the adjuster from your pics .


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## Scrit (14 Jan 2007)

Anyway - tooling. For anyone who's never seen one here's a limiter cutter block set-up with a pair of profile cutters and limiters:






The black knives are the limiters. This is one of the smaller blocks with a 100mm cutting circle and 40mm high knives. The knives/limiters are located on two pins and held in place by wedges making it highly unlikely to drop a cutter, even if the screws do come loose. Despite the APTC marked on it it is actually a modern Whitehill block

Grooving I do with "dial-a-width" groovers like this Stark one:






Rhese have a groove height range a little under 2:1 and make adjustng a groove to the right width really easy - and much quicker than using a shimmed cutter set. In use you'd typically see no more than this amount of projection (through a secrificial fence):






The false fence is added to give more support to the workpiece and stop it dropping into a rather large gap between the fence pieces. This is what the gap looks like after fitting modified fence plates (but without the sacrificial fence):






For rebates I tend to use blocks such as this one:






A skew-cutter TCT-RT block. This one can additionally hold small profile cutters to add drip grooves, etc. Note the spurs. This cutter was used to work a large rebate in one pass (a wee bit off square because we were using RS stock  ). Much bigger cut than you'd normally achieve with a router in a single pass (sorry about the naff picture quality and thank you Brad for modelling this wonderful piece of modern sculpture):






Finally, for a bit of a larf we set-up the vari-angle chamfer block so it thought it was a panel raiser (here shown set-up for working from the underside of the panel - my preferred approach):






Unfortunately the recess in the top of the machine proved too small to allow me to drop the cutter below the surface, so it was necessary the set it up the work above the panel, a much less safe alternative (better to set-up a false bed so that the workpiece vcan be run above the cutter - as Brad I'nm sure will agree). Here's the (not very good, although it was a 2 minute hurry-it up set-up) sample:






And for anyone interested good spindle moul;der tooling doesn't come cheap - this set of four cutters would run you £700 to £900 approximately, with the Vari-Chamfer the most expensive at about £300 + VAT

Thanks to "Brad Naylor" for allowing me to publish these photos taken in his shop, hopefully the stains will come out in the wash :lol: :wink: 

Scrit


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## ProShop (14 Jan 2007)

JFC":2vt3ttp0 said:


> I had to file a little out of the hole to get it to fit but nothing major .
> Thanks again Dom



That's much much better


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## ProShop (14 Jan 2007)

Scrit":216yaiyr said:


> I have a bandsaw older than myself, a table saw older than I am and quite a few other vintage" pieces of kit - they all work better than I do and in addition less bits have dropped off over the years :roll:


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## Anonymous (14 Jan 2007)

Scrit":hhylaw5e said:


> Thanks to "Brad Naylor" for allowing me to publish these photos taken in his shop
> 
> Scrit



And many thanks to "Scrit" for taking the time to come down and help me get my spindle moulder set up.

It's been gathering dust ever since I bought it 6 months ago.

Cheers 
Brad

PS If you think he chunners on in his posts... you want to meet him in the flesh!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Scrit (14 Jan 2007)

Brad Naylor":3bfiv2p9 said:


> PS If you think he chunners on in his posts... you want to meet him in the flesh!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:


Takes two to tango, y'know :wink: 

Scrit


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## JFC (14 Jan 2007)

Thanks for the pics Scrit and Brad  How did you fix the false fence to the cast fence , do i need to drill out some fixing holes ?
Brad , before Dom sent me the shaw gaurd i had been talking to Felder uk about it . I can email you the file they sent me if you like .


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## Scrit (14 Jan 2007)

JFC":20ivg0re said:


> Thanks for the pics Scrit and Brad  How did you fix the false fence to the cast fence , do I need to drill out some fixing holes ?
> Brad, before Dom sent me the shaw gaurd I had been talking to Felder uk about it.


The plywood fence plates are screwed onto the cast-iron fence plates - Brad's machine had four countersunl holes drilled rthrough from the rear. They need to extend a couple of inches inwards towards the cutterblock with chamfered ends (for clearance), that way you should only hit the plywood rather than the cast-iron when you're plunging through the sacrificial fence.

The finger boards were a temporary measure to try-out the machine, so it won't be a permanent fixture.

Scrit


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## Scrit (14 Jan 2007)

Jason

Here's the rough top guard we made-up yesterday from 18mm MDF. The one in the photos is held down by adding two 240mm long x 100mm wide "flanges" to the outside of the box and also has an 18mm front "cover plate" about 90mm deep. The cut-outs allow access to the fence plate adjusters. mkII will have a DX spigot at the back (instead of a cut-out), a hinged top and will feature a proper Shaw guard unless we go mad and fit a power feeder.

MDF is cheap and making it from 18mm stuff nakes it strong enough to mount a Shaw guard











Scrit


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## Anonymous (14 Jan 2007)

Very detailed measurements you've put on there, Scrit.

Funny, I don't remember us measuring anything at all - didn't we just mark and hack? :wink: 

Cheers
Brad


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## Scrit (14 Jan 2007)

Brad Naylor":2zxuw4w7 said:


> Funny, I don't remember us measuring anything at all - didn't we just mark and hack? :wink:


Yes, but I measured it afterwards. I haven't yet learned how to post a rod :lol: 

Scrit


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## JFC (14 Jan 2007)

THanks for the SU pics , where are you going to put the dust extraction port ? I was thinging too the right as thats where my moulder tends to shoot the waste .


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## Scrit (14 Jan 2007)

We put the opening in the prototype to the rear - that's the normal position. Put it at the right and it will probably get in the way of the adjusters, etc. I'll have a think about it, though. What is certain, though, its that it does need extraction - generates a _tad_ more waste than a 1in tall router cutter

Scrit


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## OPJ (14 Jan 2007)

At one place I worked, my boss was using a Scheppach Spindle Moulder and, I don't know, maybe it wasn't quite set up right. He switched it on, started feeding the timber through (22mm thick, only for a chamfer) and somehow the feed roller got dragged along with it and one of the wheels was destroyed before he had time to switch it off! :shock: 

His hands were fine though,  

And where I work now, our _foreman_ (believe it or not!) was trimming a shaped piece of redwood, 3" thick, somehow managing to just nick his finger on the spinning cutter! He survived though. Lost a bit of blood and barely a millimeter of his index finger with half the finger nail destroyed. Three weeks off work. Although, he managed to get blood poisoning from it and spend most of that time on the drip. :shock: 

One of his aims this year is to get me on the damned thing. I've also been told they don't like knots... I've heard stories of lengths of skirting being sent SMACK in to a wall at the end of a 'shop! :?


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## Scrit (14 Jan 2007)

Hi Olly

Spindle moulders are nowhere near as fearsome as they used to be, especially with modern (i.e. trade legal) tooling.



OPJ":2ipdzl23 said:


> And where I work now, our _foreman_ .....
> ..... Lost a bit of blood and barely a millimeter of his index finger with half the finger nail destroyed.


And I'll put odds on it that he was working without any Shaw guards on the machine. If you guard the cutter adequately this sort of thing rarely happens. 



OPJ":2ipdzl23 said:


> One of his aims this year is to get me on the damned thing. I've also been told they don't like knots... I've heard stories of lengths of skirting being sent SMACK in to a wall at the end of a 'shop! :?


Material can sometimes get ejected if you hit a knot - a good reason to use a full sprung Shaw guard set and push sticks - and also to stand to one side when feeding through. Power feeding is always the safest option, though, especially for long/heavy pieces and the surface quality will be better with power feeding because the feed is consistent.

The worst thing is to use a machine you are scared of, distrust or which you don't understand. If you want a primer on using the spindle moulder safely take a look here and print it out. Once you've ignored the first couple of "blood and gore" paragraphs (only joking) the rest of the advice really is good.

Scrit


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## JFC (14 Jan 2007)

I will agree with Scrit here , the worst thing you can do is use a machine you are scared of . The first time i turned my spindle moulder on it scared me but i have used bigger machines before and i knew this would be the case as it was a new machine to me . As i said before i like to know the sound of a machine i also like to look over every part of it before i use it . I find switching the machine on and listening to it for a while , then standing next to it is a good way of knowing what it does . 
Respecting a machine is a good thing , being scared of it is dangerous .


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## Anonymous (14 Jan 2007)

Dear oh dear, I can just imagine Scrit and Brad in the workshop, sort of a cross between "last of the summer wine and "grumpy old men" :lol:


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## Scrit (15 Jan 2007)

senior":9t0kduw4 said:


> ........ sort of a cross between "last of the summer wine and "grumpy old men" :lol:


And pray, which of us is which, I wonder? And exactly where in that woeful spectrunm do you fit? :wink: 

Scrit


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## Anonymous (15 Jan 2007)

senior":1vyb2jqi said:


> Dear oh dear, I can just imagine Scrit and Brad in the workshop, sort of a cross between "last of the summer wine and "grumpy old men" :lol:



You may laugh...


...We're coming down to see you next week! :wink:


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## Anonymous (15 Jan 2007)

Oh i've definately become a grumpy old man before my due time :lol:


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## JFC (17 Jan 2007)

I need to mould some glazing beads around 15mm x 9 mm and i don't think the gaurd i was so kindly given will be good for this . I was thinking of making up a small L section to attach to the fence and i could run the timber through this . Good idea or not ? Its still running at 4500 RPM :?


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## engineer one (17 Jan 2007)

surely the prescribed way to do this is to mould it on the end of a solid plank, and then cut the sections off. this would be much safer and more accurate i think.

paul :wink:


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## Scrit (18 Jan 2007)

Paul has is spot on. Mould the beads on a wider plank (preferably at 7,000 rpm with a small diameter block - how come you still can't change speed?) then part off by ripping on the tablesaw. The smallest you can normally work on a spindle moulder is somewhat larger that that you would work on a router table. Work too small a piece and the cutter will smash the material into pieces.

Scrit


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## JFC (18 Jan 2007)

I still cant find how to change the speed , there seems to be a spring behind the bolt i showed in the pic . So maybe i need to loosen of the nut below it and it will move the motor ? Re the glazing bead , of course .


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## mahking51 (18 Jan 2007)

Hi Scrit, did you get my PM?
Regards,
Martin


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## JFC (20 Jan 2007)

Found it !!!!!!  
I had to take photo's to see what was going on round there . A right pain to get to .









There doesn't seem to be any marks as to where the speeds are , do i just turn it until the belt is tight ?


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## Scrit (20 Jan 2007)

Hi Jason

If you look at Brad's machine there is a knob acting on a threaded rod and the knob is turned to adjust the motor foot outwards (i.e. towards the rear of the machine) in order to _tension_ the belt _after_ you have changed speeds. On his machine the motor foot is bolted onto a plate or casting which pivots on the right hand side in the vertical plane. On your machine the motor appears not to be properly bolted onto that plate and the spring is presumably intended to give the required amount of tension as opposed to having the screw adjuster (possibly they couln't accommodate it when the new motor was fitted). Sounds like the spring isn't man enough for the job at 7,000 rpm. I also reckon that your motor needs bolting onto that plate properly.

Scrit


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## JFC (21 Jan 2007)

Scrit , there are two bolts on the other side and one below the adjuster shown in the pic . As i can only get a small turn on the nut shown i'm not sure if it moves the motor (as i pulled it round by hand) Or if it locks off the spring . I will look again tomorrow and start her up :twisted:


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## JFC (22 Jan 2007)

Wooohoooooo 7000 RPM \/ (hammer) (hammer) Big rebates in one pass , i like it !


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## Scrit (22 Jan 2007)

So from that I gather it's all OK, then? :wink: Congratulations.

4,500 rpm is really for large diameter blocks, most 100mm blocks will happily run at 7,000rpm

Scrit


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## JFC (22 Jan 2007)

All running fine  Thanks for all the help . I have nine oak shaker doors to make this week so i had to get it sorted .


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## JFC (13 Feb 2007)

Scrit , can i ask why you have put spacers on the spindle rather than taking the nut all the way down to the top hat on the saw blade ?


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## Anonymous (13 Feb 2007)

You must enter a message when posting.


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## Scrit (13 Feb 2007)

JFC":1nzqcmi0 said:


> Scrit , can i ask why you have put spacers on the spindle rather than taking the nut all the way down to the top hat on the saw blade ?


It's just quicker than winding the nut down the whole way. In any case with smaller blocks the thread doesn't run down far enough.

Scrit


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## JFC (13 Feb 2007)

Well back on the spindle today and i've made my dust extraction and safety cover as well as the sacrificial fence .  
I didn't like the idea of holding the fence and pushing it into the block to get the cut out as my fence runs on two bolts , if it snagged there would be metal flying every where :shock:


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## DomValente (13 Feb 2007)

Holy C**p Jason if thats your dust extract box, how big is the extractor  

Dom


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## Anonymous (13 Feb 2007)

JFC":dj6p0uu2 said:


> I didn't like the idea of holding the fence and pushing it into the block to get the cut out as my fence runs on two bolts , if it snagged there would be metal flying every where :shock:



So how did you do it in the end, or are you just saying you didn't like it.


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## JFC (13 Feb 2007)

:lol: I had to make it that tall to incorporate the workings for the pressure clamps . Its not that far of the one scrit made . It works very well  
I just drew around the block and cutter , much safer and less scarey


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## Anonymous (13 Feb 2007)

JFC":1xlm792j said:


> I just drew around the block and cutter , much safer and less scarey



:lol: :lol: :lol: where do you store your cutters, in your handbag :lol:


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## engineer one (13 Feb 2007)

knowing jason the extractor is a guy with a pair of bellows at the back :lol: :twisted: 

paul :wink:


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## JFC (13 Feb 2007)

> where do you store your cutters, in your handbag


No , i store them in yours . It saves getting mine dirty :lol:


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## Anonymous (13 Feb 2007)

Jason, whilst using the spindle you might find it safer if you put on this new safety feature.


















Although I'm not sure it will go with your handbag :lol: :lol:


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## JFC (13 Feb 2007)

:lol: :lol: :lol:


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