# wadkin MJ restoration



## wallace (25 Aug 2013)

Its been 10 minutes since my last restoration so I think its time to start another one. This one was originally a line shaft machine dating from 1920's but a motor was added in the 40's 50's judging by the type of motor. I got this delivered a little while ago but because it ended up falling off the pallets it came on, and then I hurt my back. Its been sat outside. I managed to get it in the workshop and began work. I was thinking of trying a different approach with this one, instead of stripping it down completely and then starting to refurb. I thought I'd try takeing a piece of at a time and doing it.




























I think this might of hindered its performance the last time it was used, a knot well and truly wedged





I got this nice whitworth brittool socket set from a car boot recently, well pleased £5. It should help with my old iron


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## katellwood (25 Aug 2013)

Always a pleasure seeing your restorations looking forward to seeing it advance 

Regards


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## MickCheese (25 Aug 2013)

I love these threads. Combines my love of anything motorised with woodwork. 

Mick


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## Flynnwood (25 Aug 2013)

Wallace - would you per chance have a suitable single phase motor in that workshop of yours that would fit onto this?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... AQ:GB:1123

Love the resto's.


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## wallace (26 Aug 2013)

Hi Flynwood, sorry I don't have any, I only have 3 phase ones. That is one lovely little saw, It wouldn't take a big motor to run an 8" blade. Its nice he found the mitre and fence. Go on get it you know you want to.


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## wallace (31 Aug 2013)

I took one of the tables off and cleaned by the usual methods, Stanley blade, brass wheel in a drill, 180 sandpaper, 3M scourer things.





I then removed the steel strip, because it has some damage from a moulding cutter. Underneath there was a very slim shim.





On the underside of the strip it has a number 4 stamped at one end and little dots stamped around each threaded hole, any ideas why?




This is the damage to the strip, do you think I should grind it back or just clean it up a bit









Next was to clean all the ground surfaces, I love that you can still see the hand finishing marks







I thought I'd keep a tally on how many hours it takes, so far its 7hrs
Mark


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## katellwood (1 Sep 2013)

Are the holes centre punched in to reduce/minimise any play between the bolt and the hole. I use a similar technique to reduce play of a mitre gauge in a table saw groove. 

Also isn't this method a quick fix for clock restorers who take out the wear in the front and back brass plates that support the cog shafts although in your situation I cannot see the necessity 
Just a thought


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## wallace (7 Sep 2013)

I got the other table all cleaned and prepped ready for some paint





And set up the magic barrel because there are some quite rusty bits to tackle





These are the guides for the table





They are quite pitted









I found out what the 4 means as well, Jack (obi wan Kenobi) said that these machines were made in batches. That is why there is the number 4 on stuff to keep it with the correct machine.





I spent some time with the belt sander and then by hand trying to get rid of the pits before I polish.





Heres a pic of my machine being made in the 1920's




Time spent so far is 14hrs


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## heimlaga (9 Sep 2013)

Looks like a good machine!

Good luck with the rebuild


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## wallace (10 Sep 2013)

I put the guard in the magic barrel and this is how it came out





You wouldn't believe how long it takes to get from rusty to shiny


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## katellwood (11 Sep 2013)

wallace":3tteud85 said:


> You wouldn't believe how long it takes to get from rusty to shiny



Could I ask you to talk me through this process i.e. how do you go from so rusty to so polished and approx. how long does each one take, in addition if you use polishing compounds what grits do you use 

TIA


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## wallace (11 Sep 2013)

No problem, Firstly I will either use the electrolysis route or a brass wire wheel. If the item is dented or pitted I will go at it with one of those powerfiles which are like a mini belt sander. Once all the dents/pits are gone I use 180 then 240 grit wrapped around one of those foam sanding blocks. It helps when doing curved items. Sometimes if I'm feeling abit obsessive I will go down to 400 grit. Then its on to the buffing wheel. I use a 8" close stitched cotton wheel on my lathe which I crank up to 2800rpm. The best polishing compound I have found is the red/brown blocks from silverline. I have tried all the black ones to start and green and then white to finish and I find its a waste of time. I have always got good results from the one block of compound. I have used it on brass, ali, steel and think it works well. I only have a few machines to do before my wadkin temple is complete and I am getting abit precise to the finish I expect. One of these takes me about 2hrs  
Mark


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## katellwood (11 Sep 2013)

thanks


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## Westy (11 Sep 2013)

Love your work! Will be keeping an eye on this!


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## custard (12 Sep 2013)

Wallace, are you an engineer by training? What got you into Wadkin machinery and what's the long term plan for your collection?


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## wallace (12 Sep 2013)

Thanks Westy, Custard I have no training what so ever. I'm just a bloke that likes to see how things work and cant afford new decent machinery so get stuff that looks nackered but because its old wadkin it never is. I think I have got 10 pieces of machinery and all have made good machines with some elbow grease and very little money. When I've finished everything I will start to use things in earnest. I have used my eq spindle moulder a bit for small stuff but I would like some training before I go and do some big boy stuff. I think that's the only machine that makes my bum nip. Like my tag says I have plenty of gear with no real idea  Everything I have learnt is self taught by trial and error but most things are common sense when it comes to wood work.
Mark


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## custard (12 Sep 2013)

wallace":1hezq8b9 said:


> I have no training what so ever. I'm just a bloke that likes to see how things work



I think you're being a bit modest, you must have a natural talent because these are major restorations you're undertaking and, more to the point, actually finishing, unlike most of the armchair dreamers who start down this road!


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## Flynnwood (12 Sep 2013)

custard":1vh851mc said:


> Wallace, What got you into Wadkin machinery and what's the long term plan for your collection?



He will own the largest collection of refurbished Wadkins in England, Scotland, Wales, Ireland and perhaps the EU lol. 

Good luck to him. 

 =D> =D> =D>


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## wallace (14 Sep 2013)

I made a few more items shiny








This is the handle raising the tables, it has SS cast in the back









The components of each table are kept together so that everything goes back to where it came from


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## wallace (18 Sep 2013)

The tables are all painted up and put to one side, next job is to dismantle the gearbox. The pulley is pretty stuck and the pullers I have don't fit, I had to heat it up a bit and lever from opposite sides to move it alittle just to make room for the casing to come off. 




This is whats underneath, somebody has greased the gears. I'm sure it should be just oil with the chain running through it and taking oil to the gears.













I like the way the chain is joined


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## Andy RV (18 Sep 2013)

Are you going for a full paint job as well? What are your plans for motors? Looks nice and greasy in there!


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## dickm (18 Sep 2013)

That chain join looks like overkill of the ninth degree! But wonderful.


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## wallace (18 Sep 2013)

Hi Andy, yes its getting the full monty. It came with a nice old monster motor but when it fell over it took the brunt of the fall and has a crack in the casing. I haven't investigated it yet.


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## wallace (20 Sep 2013)

I degreased and dismantled the gearbox. That must be the most messy job I've done on a machine. My degreaser was pants so I opted for petrol which worked a treat.





There was one set of gears I could not work out how to remove so they got left in.





All clean ready for some paint




Everything on the gearbox is stamped with a 10












There was a small chain which was on a cog at one end and then just riding on a bare shaft at the other, maybe its to move oil around?


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## Myfordman (20 Sep 2013)

Oil would be more normal for a chain drive as lubricant has to penetrate into the rollers etc. Grease would simply get pushed out of the way.

Grease could of been used in ignorance or maybe as a method of managing a leak at some time.

MM


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## wallace (26 Sep 2013)

I removed the feed rollers and cleaned





They are quite rusty so are going in the barrel. There is a quite deep scratch on the roller and some pitting, will this affect the performance. I was thinking of giving it a skim.





The roller assembly came up pretty well









This is the piece that was broken I will be welding it soon.





The piece near the cutter head does not seem to be original wadkin





Next I started to remove the head. Its quite a heavy lump.





One bearing looks ok and one side is toast





This is the first time I have opened a wadkin machine and found knackered bearings


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## Cheshirechappie (26 Sep 2013)

Just a wee tip on assessing the rolling element bearings - thoroughly clean the one that appears to be good, and inspect the surfaces of both inner and outer races for any evidence of spalling (tiny bits missing). Do the same with the balls, too (you don't want spalling of the balls). If you find ANY evidence of it, change the bearing - it's in the early stages of failing.

It might be wise to change both bearings anyway, as a matter of course. That cutter block is a big lump, and the better the condition of the bearings, the better the finish you'll get in service.


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## wallace (27 Sep 2013)

Thanks for that. If theres any sign of wear I will be replacing. I suspect that they wont be cheap but like you say its not worth the risk with that big lump spinning.


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## wallace (27 Sep 2013)

This is one of the pressure rollers after a night in the barrel.





And after a bit elbow grease





Some of the chain guards, pulley wheel and gearbox primed and read for the enamel coats

















Got some good news about the bearings, there not as big as I thought so for skf there £54 each or I can go for steel caged for £33


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## wallace (28 Sep 2013)

I have degreased and cleaned the bearing caps. The bolt heads were a bit manky so I sanded the flats


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## custard (28 Sep 2013)

There's nothing on the TV or radio that comes close to matching the excitement of this restoration! More power to your elbow.


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## the_g_ster (29 Sep 2013)

This is great to see.

That was clearly made with a huge amount of over engineering to it. Hope you get some good service out of it once fixed up.


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## wallace (29 Sep 2013)

Took one of the blocks off and gave it a quick clean to asses. I like to keep all the bolts on a card so that they go back to where they came


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## wallace (30 Sep 2013)

I took the other bearing block off and got it ready for some paint. You can see where the remnants of the bearing have got mixed in with the grease on the seal and worn some grooves.









The remnants of the bearing cage have rounded edges


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## Cheshirechappie (30 Sep 2013)

You remember I was banging on about 'spalling' in connection with rolling element bearings a few posts ago - well, the balls on the right hand side of the last picture show classic (and quite advanced) signs of it. Lots of little bits missing from the surface. It wouldn't surprise me at all if the contact paths on the inner and outer races displayed similar symptoms. The little bits of metal that chip out get mixed up with the lubricant in the bearing, and just make things worse.

That's a life-expired bearing, that is!

PS - Good tip about keeping bolts with the holes they came out of - bolts of the same thread and length 'ought' to be interchangable, but on older kit, that's not always the case.


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## wallace (2 Oct 2013)

I took the thicknessing table off, a bit rusty but not bad. I did the usual shave then 120 grit at right angle to length then wire wheel followed by scrubber thing.





















I then tried to get the main column out of the body.





It was pretty stuck and I did not want to force the gears, So I cleaned it and soaked it in oil and left it for the night





I tried various ways to get it out from rigging the block and tackle up and pulling to levering with a length of wood. In the end I gave it a couple of wacks with a sledge hammer put loads of oil on it and let it be. When I came back to it a couple of days later I put the gear and handle back on and it moved straight away.


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## wallace (3 Oct 2013)

I assembled the table, I'm not sure where the rollers should be set. Do they have to be level with either side of the table or proud? Any advice.





The column spent the night in the barrel and cleaned up nicely





There is a little damage





Next I moved onto the gear assembly, this has been taken to bits in the past because it has signs of some dodgy treatment and a bolt had been used as a securing pin.


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## Tim_H (3 Oct 2013)

That is a beautiful piece of machinery emerging from the grime! 

Always fascinated by your impressive Wadkin restorations, keep up the fantastic wip.


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## wallace (9 Oct 2013)

I had a spray day today. 





This was a tight squeeze to get it out





Things got the usual zinc prime and a good few coats of QD enamel, next time I must remember not to spray when its windy I had apples dropping on my head. The good thing about the enamel is you can spray one side and by the time you've done one side the other is ready for another coat.


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## nathandavies (9 Oct 2013)

nice work as ever Wallace, are you still noting the hours taken? have you welded the cast yet?


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## wallace (9 Oct 2013)

Hi Nathan I'm still keeping track of hrs but I have not tallied up yet. I haven't got to welding yet. I borrowed somebody my welder and they used a full mini coil of wire and a bottle of gas. They said they'd replace it the day after. That was 3 weeks ago. :twisted:


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## wallace (10 Oct 2013)

I started the head today

















Heres the broken stud









I then started on the fence which is quite a lump


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## Nippychippy (10 Oct 2013)

Loving your work your doing a great job


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## Bigdanny (10 Oct 2013)

You're doing a good job there Wallace. I'm looking forward to doing mine. 
I have a question. Are you planning to change the flat belts to v belts. Mine has been changed on the drive to the knives but is still belt dive on the gearbox/ feed drive. I'm still thinking that may be good to change to v belts all round. It should be quieter I think.
What are your thoughts.

Danny


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## wallace (10 Oct 2013)

Hi Danny, I am going to keep to flat belt if its too noisy I might change the canvas belts to rubber. If I wanted to change the drive to the gearbox I would have to get a 20" double pulley. My other old planer has been converted to v belt and it looks ugly


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## wallace (11 Oct 2013)

I can almost see the finish line so I am getting all excited. I was up at 5am so thought I'd do a couple of hours before I had to the daily routine. The clams of the head have been soaking in the barrel over night, this is how they came out





This is after a rub with a cloth, it makes for cleaning rust off a lot cleaner and safer





This is after a rub with some scrubber stuff





I then drilled the broken stud ready for the stud extractor. It drilled really easily just keep forgetting to get some plus gas.





I could not resist putting some bits together









It was 7:30 so had to go back indoors to do my chores and stuff


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## Bigdanny (11 Oct 2013)

Hi Wallace,
I seem to remember Jack in Canada had a problem with the nuts, studs on his cutting head. I think is this thread and he got some specially made. if-wadkin-made-toilets-they-would-not-flush-t56241-15.html. 

Hope this helps

Danny


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## nathandavies (11 Oct 2013)

a while ago I told you about my bts500 that I bought from the bay, which was dropped just before I picked it up. today I had a guy come over who will be able to weld the broken cast for me. so I've started taking it apart, although i'd love to do a full strip down, I just need to get it working. it's not a beautiful looking machine, but it should be an excellent workhorse. I feel like a strip down to some extent will be needed to remove rust, grime and the like. I need to look back and see what your overnight bath is all about, presumably not matey. I may well have some questions for you regarding bearings, nuts etc. I have a wadkin cc to get working, and a 100yr old planer thicknesser to do a total restore on. (maybe in 40yrs when I retire) I like to keep an eye on what you are doing as it gives me a bit of encouragement to get on with mine (usually to the detrement of the work I should be getting on with) you're currently our equivalent of jack (tool613). keep up the good work, looking forward to using them?

nathan


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## wallace (11 Oct 2013)

Danny, Jack has kindly offered me one of his nuts  and stud. Nathan the CC is the long one isn't it I have the baby ck. I also have an old P/T which is a decent age. I am not going to restore but keep it with all its 100 years of patina. One problem I have is that I tend to start to rush things near the end and its hard to maintain the standard that I want to achieve. My work Being compared to Jacks is a great compliment but I can dream to get to his standards. I keep trying


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## wallace (12 Oct 2013)

I put the fence in the barrel for the night and then reassembled the feed rollers. I got a shock when I unwrapped the rollers, when I cleaned and de rusted them I oiled and put them in a oily rag but they still got a flash rust


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## wallace (13 Oct 2013)

Todays progress, I took the fence out of the barrel and I am really pleased with its condition. Its not bad considering its about 90 years old









There was a broken bolt to remove, which came out easily with a little heat and lube









The planer had a couple of oil covers missing so I made some out of brass, this is the original one





And then the one I made


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## memzey (17 Oct 2013)

So Wallace; any idea when the next exciting episode is going to be released? I really can't wait to see a picture of it when you've brought it back to its original glory!


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## wallace (17 Oct 2013)

Hi Memzey, heres some more. I got the fence painted and all the components polished. As you can see its in nice condition





You can there must of been a void in the casting so its been filled and machined













I put the gearbox back together









I assembled the other table

















I took the motor and head to my local motor winders and he kindly let me use his hydraulic pullers to get the pulleys off


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## memzey (17 Oct 2013)

Beautiful. It's a real joy to watch you making such good progress. Once you're done you will no doubt be chuffed to bits every time you use it and rightly so.


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## Bigdanny (17 Oct 2013)

Its looking good Wallace!
Would you be able to give me a little info on the 2 rollers and casting for the feed and outfeed on the thicknesser table.
Mine were missing unfortunately.
Are they both the same length?
Are there bearings on the rollers or is it just a polished shaft where it attached to the casting?
Are there bearings on the actual roller and shaft??
Would you be able to give me some kind of accurate plan drawing so i could get some cat here??
Many Thanks
Danny


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## Tony Spear (18 Oct 2013)

Good Lord! Can you imagine what a machine like that would cost if they were still made today?

The mind boggles!


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## wallace (18 Oct 2013)

Danny do you mean the ones that are set into the bottom table. If it is they have bearings in blocks at the end. I will take one out and measure it up for you. Tony I'd hate to imagine how much as well. I suppose it would be worth it if you knew you would get 90 years service out of a machine. This machine was only taken out of service from a sawmill in inverness a year ago. Presumably because of the bearing.


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## Bigdanny (18 Oct 2013)

Its there ones , 






Im guessing should be one either end. Also are they just exactly in line with the thicknessing bed? And I'm guessing solid cast as well. Cheers


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## wallace (18 Oct 2013)

Hi Dan, Oh them ones, on this model they only have the rollers on one end. As you can see there are no bearings, just machined. I can easily measure the roller but the brackets would be hard to reproduce from measurements


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## wallace (19 Oct 2013)

Bit of a set back today. I put some oil in the gearbox last night and this morning there was a nice puddle. It seems to be leaking from the main input shaft, the one that holds the pulley. The shaft goes through a brass sleeve with what I think are grease groves? I was thinking of maybe trying to put an O ring in the groove to act as an oil seal. Anyone any ideas?


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## Tony Spear (19 Oct 2013)

wallace":2lm2ra2l said:


> Bit of a set back today. I put some oil in the gearbox last night and this morning there was a nice puddle. It seems to be leaking from the main input shaft, the one that holds the pulley. The shaft goes through a brass sleeve with what I think are grease groves? I was thinking of maybe trying to put an O ring in the groove to act as an oil seal. Anyone any ideas?



Although unlikely, is it possible that it's a labyrinth seal?

http://www.parker.com/literature/Engine ... s/5350.pdf

Or alternitatively, maybe you've just over-filled the gearbox. I once had an elderly "Panther" motorbike, which had what's known as a "wet sump" i.e. the flywheel was running in an oil bath so that everything was lubricated by the action of the flywheel chucking the oil about and whenever the oil was topped up it leaked like bu***ry until the oil level dropped to what it should have been to start with!


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## wallace (19 Oct 2013)

I disassembled the gearbox and noticed the shaft has noticeable play between the shaft and brass sleeve. The gearbox has a filler cap which acts as a level as well.


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## dickm (19 Oct 2013)

On old Villiers 2-stroke engines, the crankcase seal was supposed to be provided by a brass bush which also acted as a bearing. Worked quite well as a bearing, but as soon as it got a bit of wear, didn't act as a seal! There was just enough "meat" on the crankcase to machine out a space for a modern type of oil seal. Probably not possible to machine out in your case, but maybe you could fix some sort of holder for a seal on the outside? Wouldn't be original, but would probably work


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## wallace (21 Oct 2013)

I had a go at welding the broken casting. If there are any welders out there please excuse my attempts. These are the bits to be welded unfortunately a piece got lost when the planer fell off the pallets.





I clamped the bits together whilst I tacked it.





I then V'd the crack out a bit and heated it up with a blow torch 





This is the result, not very pretty but hopefully it will hold. I put it in a pre heated oven and gradually decreased the temperature


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## No skills (21 Oct 2013)

Did it make much noise as it was cooling?

Was told that the clinking noise when cast iron cools (after welding) is stress fracturing happening inside the weld. I don't know if that's true or accurate - just something an old welder told me once.


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## wallace (21 Oct 2013)

When I did the tack welds you could here a clinking noise. But when I did the main weld because it was preheated there was no noise. I think the hotter you get the cast the better the result.


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## No skills (21 Oct 2013)

Oh good, should be a good weld then.


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## custard (21 Oct 2013)

Wallace, you're just unstoppable, a woodworking force of nature!


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## Dangermouse (22 Oct 2013)

The best way to weld cast is to get it red hot, weld it , peen the weld to relive the stress, then put it in hot sand to cool down VERY slowly. You were very lucky to not have it re-crack after you welded it. What welding material did you use, nickel rods and arc welding is needed for the best weld.


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## wallace (22 Oct 2013)

I only have a mig and used steel flux cored wire with CO2 gas. I might see if I can find an arc welder sometime


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## Dangermouse (22 Oct 2013)

Any arc welder will do, even a hobby one and is definitely the best way to weld cast.


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## wallace (22 Oct 2013)

What do the different amperages mean when buying an arc welder? Is it to do with penetration of the piece being welded i.e you need more amps for thicker stuff.

The motor was also injured in the fall so needed welding





The bearings were in good condition. one end was ball and the other brass caged needle roller. The bearing caps got a bit bling


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## Dangermouse (22 Oct 2013)

hi Wallace
yes that's it, the higher the amps the thicker the metal you can weld, for your type of work 80 to 110 amp is plenty


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## dickm (23 Oct 2013)

Agree that almost any arc welder "will do", but for someone like the OP, who clearly loves old metal, a proper oil cooled machine would be more satisfying!
The upsurge in Migs seems to have hit the SH market for arc, and oil-cooled Oxfords etc. can be picked up pretty cheaply.


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## wallace (24 Oct 2013)

Thanks for the advice. I had a go at removing the stud from the head. I tried a stud extractor which broke then I filed the studs sides to fit a spanner which duly snapped the stud leaving the threads in the hole. I then went to a local fabricators who had oxy because I was just using a blow torch. He heated things up and welded a bar on the stud which just snapped. I then went back home and drilled the stud again thinking the heat might of cracked it, another stud extractor broke so I had to drill that out. I thought I might be able to drill somewhere near the threads and collapse the stud. So I now have a stuck stud with a 11mm hole in it. Should I just re-tap it? Any thoughts ?


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## Dangermouse (24 Oct 2013)

Drill the stud out. leaving a mill, then clean the hole out with the correct tap.


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## Cheshirechappie (24 Oct 2013)

There's an old method of stud removal, if you're really stuck. Obtain a cold chisel of slightly smaller diameter than the hole. Grind a flat on opposite sides of the business end until you have a sort of 'blade' about 3/16" to 1/4" thick, and a bit longer than the stud-hole is deep (go carefully so as not to draw the temper). Round off one edge of this blade so it's a U shape in cross-section. Grind the end off so that it makes a cutting edge at the base of the U; something like about 75 to 80 degrees is about right for the cutting angle. Drill out as much of the stud as you can, then using the chisel, chip a groove down the inside of the drilled stud - take several shallow passes, deepening the groove a bit at a time. Once you reach the tips of the threads, the stud may collapse - if it doesn't, chip a second groove at 180 degrees to the first. When the stud collapses, fish the bits out with a bit of bent wire or a stick with a smear of grease on it, and run a tap down the hole to clean up any damage to the hole's threads.


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## wallace (27 Oct 2013)

Thanks for the advice. I tried to remove the stud for a good while, but it was starting to iss me off so I went and did something else. Heres the motor all cleaned out of saw dust regreased and painted. Runs pretty sweet.





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtNFqkRb ... e=youtu.be

I need to find a spot to place this thing but I don't have a lot of room left. My workshop is only 5m by 5m. I really should get rid of the J Sutcliffe p/t only problem is I really like it. How do you fit 10 machines in a small shed. I am definitely not getting any more machines, except the one that's coming tomorrow


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## The Bear (27 Oct 2013)

excellent So what's coming tomorrow?

Mark


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## wallace (27 Oct 2013)

Its some kind of foot operated chop saw. It was cheap so could not help myself.


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## No skills (27 Oct 2013)

wallace":2s55ivg0 said:


> It was cheap so could not help myself.



   


You should do the tool resto stuff as a side business, local folks could kit their workshops out with quality old gear instead of the overpriced badge swapped stuff so common now.


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## dickm (27 Oct 2013)

Oh, boy, that pic is a machine tool phreak's heaven


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## wallace (27 Oct 2013)

I sold a lathe recently and the guy who bought it came to collect it. A couple of days later he rang me up asking me to restore a little Holroyd multi wheel grinder. I said I would, so I'll soon see if its worth the effort. I think it will be hard to recoup a profit


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## No skills (27 Oct 2013)

Interesting, I suppose you have to be careful not to under price your time. I would imagine the enthusiasts will be willing to spend though, they know what sort of machine they will get if they are having a wadkin or similar restored to working order.


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## wallace (28 Oct 2013)

If only it was that simple. A while ago I thought I would sell my PK table saw firstly because it was one with an oversized table, the fence moves over a good 36" so I thought it was too big for my workshop and secondly I wanted an excuse to do another PK. It went for £800 which I could not let happen, so a friend bought it. I have had a good offer from someone in the states but I think the cost of shipping has scared him. I have another two pk's in the line


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## wallace (28 Oct 2013)

Heres that 'last' machine I mentioned. I got it for the princely sum of £13. It is quite rough but is nearly all aluminium.


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## Bigdanny (28 Oct 2013)

At that price I can see why it was rude to turn it down. Scrap alone ( perish the thought) is substantially more than that. (hammer)


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## The Bear (28 Oct 2013)

£13. That's brilliant.


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## wallace (29 Oct 2013)

It's not really correct because I had to have it couriered and that was £40. But still a quirky little saw which will look smashing when restored


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## Scouse (29 Oct 2013)

wallace":3pwp9dwg said:


> But still a quirky little saw which will look smashing when restored



...and provide another restoration thread for us to enjoy; because to be honest your restorations are both compulsive viewing and a mine of useful resto tips.


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## wallace (29 Oct 2013)

Does anyone think there should be a section or subsection devoted to woodworking machinery. I have seen it on other forums and it acts as a good resource. MODS if it is something members would like to have could one be created?


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## katellwood (29 Oct 2013)

wallace":k1danc5g said:


> Does anyone think there should be a section or subsection devoted to woodworking machinery. I have seen it on other forums and it acts as a good resource. MODS if it is something members would like to have could one be created?



Agreed, there's one over there and as one who has posted a restoration would make searching much easier


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## nathandavies (29 Oct 2013)

nevermind a section or subsection, those of us who do up old metal should just be plain sectioned.


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## wallace (29 Oct 2013)

:lol: I agree Nathan it is an illness. Its nearly as bad as collecting woody planes :shock:
I have spent the last 6 hrs moving machinery around and taking cupboards down in an attempt to make room for both of my p/t's. In the end I have put everything back to where it was and admitted defeat. I will have to get rid of a planer, anyone after a 100 year old planer?


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## marcros (29 Oct 2013)

how big is the planer, wallace?


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## nathandavies (29 Oct 2013)

putting my bts back together. ordered bearings with bearingboys, with 2-3 day delivery and arrived next day! not bothering to paint anything, it's not a pretty machine, I just need it working. had a load of stuff welded for a reasonable price. there were so many breaks that the machine should have by rights been scrap, but luckily met the guy who did the welding for me. he knew his stuff inside out, makes chassis for classic cars in the main, the welding was stunning. hopefully get it running in the next couple of days.


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## wallace (29 Oct 2013)

I think its 18". It has a 3phase motor but can be easily changed to single


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## marcros (29 Oct 2013)

Ah, bit extreme for my 13a supply. It it was 10 or 12" it might have been a goer!


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## pitch pine (30 Oct 2013)

Could you post a picture of the planer Wallace, and give me an idea of the weight.


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## wallace (30 Oct 2013)

Hi I measured the planer and its 16". As you can see its quite a lump, I would estimate it to be about 650kg. I would love to keep it but I cant find room.


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## wallace (31 Oct 2013)

Heres the part that got broken





























I just need to finish the head and then I can tune it up. Heres the very last machine I mentioned


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## Dangermouse (31 Oct 2013)

All you need now is to build an extension !!


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## wallace (31 Oct 2013)

I think I will be getting accused of running a business if I'm not careful. My workshop is already 17m long. My inlaws live next door to me and said I can extend into their garden.


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## dickm (31 Oct 2013)

You really amaze me - that MJ is probably better finished than when it left the factory.


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## Flynnwood (31 Oct 2013)

wallace":1pdq1fkv said:


> My workshop is already 17m long. My inlaws live next door to me and said I can extend into their garden.



That's a yes then.


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## wallace (2 Nov 2013)

I did a tally up of how many hours I have spent on this restoration. And it comes in at 95 hours, that's not exact and I still have the head to sort out.


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## nathandavies (2 Nov 2013)

So at a modest £20/hr + machine.... i'll have to rethink my order for a pk. very nice work Wallace. What's next?


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## wallace (3 Nov 2013)

I'd be happy with £10/hr  For my next trick I would like to do another pk, but I need to sell my completed one first. So if anyone wants an oversized pk in rather nice condition at a very reasonable price


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## wallace (15 Nov 2013)

Heres an update on the planer. The gearbox leek was sorted by gluing a modern oil seal to the outside of the casting. The head was a nightmare, I ended up drilling nearly to threads and then collapsing the old thread and then repairing the original thread with a chaser. I got a new stud made and a new nut. The nut was a different weight so I sanded some off until it weighed the same as its opposite.













Heres a clip of it running, 10 points to the first person who can tell me where I messed up http://youtu.be/x97LzTjHoC4

I also got that little Holroyd grinder done, It took me 7.5 hrs and made me £100


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## Tony Spear (16 Nov 2013)

Wallace - does the starter box on the little grinder have "Igranic" on it (can't be sure from the picture)?


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## wallace (16 Nov 2013)

Yes Tony.


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## nathandavies (16 Nov 2013)

just noticed the gothic tool works badge. I have a mummert Dixon grinder from the gothic tool works, it's in the queue (quite near the back)


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## wallace (19 Nov 2013)

I have come to the conclusion that I'm not happy with the planer when running. I think its too loud and it just does not feel right. I'm going to take the cutter head back out and investigate further. I compared it to the j Sutcliffe planer and the difference is very noticeable 

http://youtu.be/IClB6Wot6sQ


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## katellwood (19 Nov 2013)

Wallace 

Just a thought but when I turn the extraction on, on my felder the noise from the machine increases. I noticed that you have the bridge guards in place during your tests, on the Wadkin the whole cutter block appears to be covered with the bridge guard however on the second machine part of the cutter block is exposed behind the fence 

Just a thought, maybe worth a try doing the test again without the bridge guards in place (but be careful)


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## Tony Spear (19 Nov 2013)

wallace":3t2i3h49 said:


> Yes Tony.



Thought as much - Igranic were/are one of the leading switchgear manufacturers in the U.K.

A few miles up the road from me there's a reduntant/abandoned/derelict pumping station with Igranic switchgear and it's amazing!

I went to look at the station 20 years as they were looking at (yet again!) replacing the pumps and the old pumping station was still there.

All the cabinets were/are black enamelled steel, with rounded corners and chrome rimmed instruments! It's like something from Dr.Who!

Sorry to hi-jack your thread, I have a thing about pumping stations, but you can't bring home a thing like that and shove it in the corner of the workshop!

You can bet your life that someone will come along to say that he collects Igranic switchgear, or that he worked for Allen Gwynnes when that pump station was first built! :lol:


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## wallace (19 Nov 2013)

Katellwood I got a similar response from Jack Forsberg. I thought I'd go round and check everything and I can feel play on the pulley side, if I try and lift the shaft there is definitely movement. Not good for something that size and weight spinning at 5000rpm :shock: 
Tony you hijack away I love anything like that.


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## markturner (19 Nov 2013)

Hi Wallace, amazing restoration, I love how you get those old machines looking. You mentioned the PK for sale, do you have pictures and details plus a figure in mind? Rgds, Mark


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