# Spalted Beech



## RAJ (28 Jul 2006)

Hi' all, newbie here,

I have an ongoing project using Spalted Beech

I'm at the final shaping and sanding stages.

As you know this timber is very porous.

To even things out, do I use a wood stopping filler, a sanding filler, or fill with the wet oil and sanding technique.

I'm thinking of using boiled Linseed oil, as on my test pieces the linseed oil brings out the grain contrast better than my Liberon finishing oil.

I'm not going to stain it. I know I will lose some whiteness with the oil finishing.

Any other Ideas on keeping it as natural as pos'?

I have had some success using Linseed oil with the Liberon to finish.

Any Ideas on the filling lads please.

Ray 8)


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## Newbie_Neil (28 Jul 2006)

Hi Ray

Welcome to the forum.

I'm sorry that I can't help, but someone will be along soon.

Cheers
Neil


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## RAJ (28 Jul 2006)

Thank's Neil 

Ray 8)


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## jasonB (28 Jul 2006)

I quite often just use a couple of coats of cellulose sanding sealer and then a clear wax, does not darken the wood much and also soaks into the soft bits and hardens them up.

The couple of boxes in this album were finished that way.

Jason


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## PowerTool (28 Jul 2006)

I'd also go with the sanding sealer - possibly a drop of superglue if the sealer doesn't do it.

Andrew

P.S. - welcome to the forum


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## CHJ (28 Jul 2006)

I'll second *Jason's* recommend; This and These were just sanding sealer and wax (so were all others in my gallery)

If you have any really difficult areas that are tearing try using a wipe of fine sanding dust mixed with the sanding sealer, or sand whilst sealer is still wet as you would with oil.


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## RAJ (30 Jul 2006)

Thank's lads.

Any recommendations on the manufactures of sanding sealers?

I believe my local general woodwork shop sells Rustins stuff. Do Rustins market a cellulose sealer.

What about mail order. Any recommendations.

I'll take some pic's and post them for you to see what I'm up against. 

Ray 8)


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## jasonB (30 Jul 2006)

I tend to use Myland's Sanding sealer but Chetnut's is OK as well, not used rustins(if it is made).

Axminster do Chestnut, South London Hardwoods do most of Myland's range.

Jason


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## RAJ (30 Jul 2006)

Thank's for the links Jason.

On seing your finished projects I'm shying away from an oil finish. I think I'd lose the tone of the timber to the oil.

It will need to be a tough hard finish as it will get a lot of use and handling.

All comments invited  

Ray 8)


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## DaveL (30 Jul 2006)

Ray, 

I think you need to share your pictures, when I use the links it asks me to login. :?


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## RAJ (31 Jul 2006)

I've tried some Liberon finishing oil and boiled Linseed oil side by side on a piece of scrap. The Linseed brings out the grain better than the Liberon. But is a tad darker.

I've used these to good effect on Walnut and Beech in the past. But I want to keep the the lite tone of the Spalted Beech to be different.

I think I'll go your way, a cellulose sanding sealer and wax.

By the way it's an Air rifle stock, (my other hobby) there's not many Spalted Beech ones around. I haven't seen any, other than on an American site. It looked so gorgeous I had to have a go at one myself.

Ray 8)


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