# Burnt oak: How to?



## pistolpete (5 Dec 2008)

Seen this finish (black bowl and forks in pic)







cant find any info on how its done, is it really burnt or is it just a heavy stain?

pete


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## Richard Findley (6 Dec 2008)

Hi Pete,

Looks like it could well be burnt. Burning will remove a lot of the softer grain, leaving the more solid stuff pronounced, as shown in the picture. These could well have been sprayed black as well to get a more even black finish. 

It's pretty straight forward to do, especially if you have a blow torch! And yes, thats it, set about it with a flame.

Try to be methodical to get the burning even. Don't concentrate on one area for to long, you want to burn not actually set fire to it! 

**DON'T USE A DUST EXTRACTOR WHILST BURNING** Other wise you might end up with a bigger fire than intended!! Keep the work area clean and clear and have a bucket of water handy, just in case.

I think that's it. Remember.... enjoy it! It's good fun and safe if you are careful. Let us see the out come!!

Cheers,

Richard


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## Derek Willis. (6 Dec 2008)

To get this effect I use a solution made up of Van Dyke Crystals, these you dilute in hot water to make a stain, depending on the amount of crystals used the stain will go from brown to black in one or two coats, coat with shellac or wax to finish. Very easy to do!!
Derek.


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## joiner_sim (11 Dec 2008)

wood and fire? in a workshop? no no! :lol: please do send in the blow torch pictures!


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## Richard Findley (12 Dec 2008)

joiner_sim":273qbp8c said:


> wood and fire? in a workshop? no no! :lol: please do send in the blow torch pictures!



I think it's a wood turner thing, I've never seen a furniture maker deliberatly set a blow torch to a table but I've seen no end of turners burning bowls!!!

No pics though, sorry!!!

Richard


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## MikeG. (12 Dec 2008)

I'm with Derek......I reckon this is an "Ebonised" finish, rather than burnt. I haven't used van Dyke's Chrystals, but I have used a mixture of iron filings and vinegar, which works instantly and very effectively. I simply soaked some old steel wool in a plastic tub with a bit of vinegar, and brush on the brown gunk that results....

It does need sealing afterwards.

Mike


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## jaymar (12 Dec 2008)

A very simple way to "ebonise" oak is to apply vinegar using wire wool.


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## MikeG. (12 Dec 2008)

jaymar":302515xu said:


> A very simple way to "ebonise" oak is to apply vinegar using wire wool.



.........errrrrrrmmmm..........

.......isn't that what I just said?......


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## jaymar (13 Dec 2008)

Eeerrrm no. You suggested mixing wire wool fragments in vinegar, I suggested applying the vinegar directly using wire wool. No waiting or mixing and it does work,


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## MikeG. (14 Dec 2008)

As a matter of interest, having ebonised your oak, what do you normally use to seal it, and how long do you wait before applying that sealant? 

I ask because I did some test pieces and left them lying around unsealed for a while and they did go quite a poor dull dark grey colour. 

Mike


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## Derek Willis. (16 Dec 2008)

To seal after using Van Dyke Crystals for ebonising, I prefer to use Shellac in any form.
Derek.


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## SVB (7 Jan 2009)

As a spinny person I have set about all sorts with a blow torch.

The open grain stuff like oak and ash works best. My tip is to really go at it more than you would think with the torch until it starts to glow red, this 'penetrates' the softer wood leaving a really pleasant textured effect. You can't really burn too deep (provided you don't end up with the whole job in flames!) However, while you are doing it have a garden mister type bottle to hand to 'mist' out the red glow (and any small flames  ) as you work over the surface. Think of this misting as an essential part of the process - if you are not having to do it, you are not burning hard enough. However, you do not want to end up taking all the heat out as the aim is to end up with a dry piece ready for the next stage.

Once you have finished and you are SURE all has cooled down (really important this bit - you DO NOT want a burning ember going up the tube into a pile of nice dry wood dust aka tinder :shock: ), then you can use your extractor and go over the whole surface with a stiff scrubbing brush. This is a messy job without an extractor. Once this is done you will have a really nice surface that is clean to the touch and apply what ever finish you want. I normally go for a but of danish oil as wax looks horrible as it gets stuck in the texture you have just created and dries as white blobs - yuck!

Best of luck - post some pics if you can.
Simon.


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## Mark Hancock (8 Jan 2009)

SVB":6mod2ukl said:


> I normally go for a but of danish oil as wax looks horrible as it gets stuck in the texture you have just created and dries as white blobs - yuck!



*Simon*, I use exactly the same technique for ebonising with a blow torch ie torch, water spray and brush.
A couple of points:
1. I use MAPP gas as it burns at a higher temperature than butane, butane/propane mix and propane. This is less distressing on the timber as you don't get the heat build up in it trying to ebonise it and so less likely to get heat checks.
2. You can finish with wax and avoid it setting as blobs in the texture if you apply it with a shoe brush and then buff it over with a polishing brush in a drill. I use the Liberon Black Patina Wax. Also if you apply it when the wood is still warm it helps the wax soak in.


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## SVB (8 Jan 2009)

Mark,

Thanks for those tips - I will find some scrap and give them a go at the weekend.

Thanks again,

Simon.


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