# Tightening a Loose Modern Monoblock Sink Tap



## Harbo (23 Jun 2011)

On investigating the kitchen tap, which has become a bit loose, I was thrown a bit as it is not fixed by the usual big nut?
Am I correct in thinking that I have to tighten the protruding brass hollow tube which seems to have a square head at the bottom end?
Does this take an Allen Key or a box spanner?
I ask as it is quite confined and cannot fully see what is going on  

Rod


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## Racers (23 Jun 2011)

Hi,

Yep, its usually a hex with a screwdriver slot as well so socket/box or big screwdriver. They have a half moon shaped washer that clamps to the undreneath of the sink.

Pete


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## myturn (23 Jun 2011)

They are normally secured with a "c" shaped plate through which a stud goes into the tap base with a nut on the end to tighten up to the plate.

So you probably need a socket, or box spanner, I doubt if it has an allen socket in the stud. 

like this


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## sparkymarky (23 Jun 2011)

you need a set of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-3950 ... B0015NSTU4 i have the rothenberger set they fit most monoblock taps.


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## Harbo (23 Jun 2011)

Thanks for the advice.
I have manged to tighten it up a bit with a wide blade screwdriver but access is tight and I cannot get a proper purchase due to the fixings.

Have sent off for the box spanner set to tighten it up properly - only £4.

Rod


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## Lons (23 Jun 2011)

Harbo":1m4l5455 said:


> Thanks for the advice.
> I have manged to tighten it up a bit with a wide blade screwdriver but access is tight and I cannot get a proper purchase due to the fixings.
> 
> Have sent off for the box spanner set to tighten it up properly - only £4.
> ...



Hi Rod

you'll have no problem with the box spanner, it's what I use and you can insert 1 spanner into the other to extend the reach but be carefull if it's not a stainless steel sink as you can crack ceramic or composite quite easily if you overtighten.

The better tap manufacturers (Franke in particular) provide a nylon spreader plate assembly which largely stops the tap working loose.

cheers

Bob


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## NetBlindPaul (23 Jun 2011)

I just use a socket on the end of my socket set!
IIRC our bathroom is 13mm, on the end of a 1/4" drive set no bother!
Others vary.
I made a new washer to go under the "C" clamp on ours too, made it of very soft neoprene which grips the ceramic.


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## jasonB (24 Jun 2011)

The box spanners are the way to go. Just don't drop them if working in a sink cupboard with an open back  

Sockets work sometimes but often the stud is long and protrudes too far beyond the end of the nut to get a socket on.

The nylon plate on Franke taps is really there to stop flexing when fitting to stainless steel sinks.

I find the usual reason they work loose is that over time the rubber C washer compresses so you need to tighten them up again


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## NetBlindPaul (24 Jun 2011)

jason,
Deep socket or cut the stud?...


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## Eric The Viking (24 Jun 2011)

NetBlindPaul":k0p5hg53 said:


> jason,
> Deep socket or cut the stud?...



I've used Loctite on the little beggars before, as they tend to un-thread from the tap end when you least expect it (usually a really loose fit). IMHO it's usually so cramped up there (two approx 12mm pipes and/or brass male fittings to connect to the H&C, the plunger thing for the waste, and the clamping nut itself plus metal and rubber/plastic "C" washers), that I need every millimetre of thread just so as to have room for fingers to start the nut.

+1 for the proper box spanners. I have long-reach sockets and extensions, but the proper job is far less hassle.

E.

PS: I can't be the only one who cuts the 15mm tails off and solders 10mm pipe inside the bits that come with the tap... can I?


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## NetBlindPaul (24 Jun 2011)

Yep!... 

Only joking Mr Viking Sir, I normally start the nuts with a long "wobble" extension and a shallow socket then change this for a deep one if I have to, or as I say cut the stud!
I like to get to 15mm ASAP me.


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## Lons (24 Jun 2011)

jasonB":3gaz0w3q said:


> The nylon plate on Franke taps is really there to stop flexing when fitting to stainless steel sinks.
> I find the usual reason they work loose is that over time the rubber C washer compresses so you need to tighten them up again



Spot on Jason but in my experience it also seems to stop the usual washer compression which makes the tap loose. I've never had to tighten up a franke tap though they are overpriced I think.
Mind I'm sure some of my customers can't understand that a ceramic valve can drip for a number of seconds and I'm sure they use superhuman effort to turn the damn things off :roll: 



> PS: I can't be the only one who cuts the 15mm tails off and solders 10mm pipe inside the bits that come with the tap... can I?



:lol: i think that's probably a very big yes E. :lol: 

Bob


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## Eric The Viking (24 Jun 2011)

Lons":1lblwoy0 said:


> I've never had to tighten up a franke tap though they are overpriced I think.
> Mind I'm sure some of my customers can't understand that a ceramic valve can drip for a number of seconds and I'm sure they use superhuman effort to turn the damn things off :roll:
> 
> 
> ...



Ah well those two things are weirdly related: We once had a Franke kitchen tap with flexible tails - braid reinforced plastic (in the plastic, not over it). The hot one pinholed and caused rather a mess under the sink. When I removed it, I cut it in half and found the inside had the consistency of soft Cheddar. We're in a hard water area, and I think the limescale destroyed the plastic somehow.

So now I like copper. But the 10mm thing? The internal orifices in the tap are 8mm max, so 15mm is pointless, also too rigid, and bulky. 10mm is much easier to deal with all round.

So I'll stick with it :wink:


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## Lons (24 Jun 2011)

jasonB":15j2264p said:


> The box spanners are the way to go. Just don't drop them if working in a sink cupboard with an open back



I've got a good example Jason though not box spanners.

Built a large kitchen extension for a customer a couple of years ago and needed to connect a 40mm waste into an existing internal soil stack below timber floor level. Simple 10 minute job with a starrett hole saw which retains the cut piece and a solvent weld strap on boss. Gave the job to my brother only to hear the words "oops, bother, deary me, how unfortunate etc" - he hadn't tightened the chuck properly and of course the whole bloody lot fell inside the pipe a good couple of feet down to a bend where luckily it stopped.

Looked at the options (after the usual chastisation), - not possible to move the stack to remove a joint, too difficult in confined space to cut out a section and replace with slip collars, tried fishing for it with a bit of wire but incredidbly difficult. Stack disappeared under a concrete garage floor so gave him a strong magnet and a length of string and said sit there 'till you get it out (hammer) - took him more than an hour :lol: 

Bob


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