# Fitting velux windows



## TrimTheKing (26 Jan 2010)

Mornin' all

Quick one, hopefully. I need to get a new velux installed in babies new bedroom and while I would be able to work it out myself, to save time was hoping that someone on here may know a thing or two about them.

Depending on ease/cost, I will probably think about sticking a couple in the workshop roof too.

I could do with knowing a couple of things, one to satisfy me and the other, SWMBO.

I need to undertand how much work is involved in the installation should I attempt to go it alone, and also, how much should I be looking to pay (roughly) if I got a man in to do it for me?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Cheers


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## matt (26 Jan 2010)

I've never installed one myself but I know someone with a fairly ballsy attitude to DIY installing one. He figured it couldn't be that difficult, ripped a whole in his roof, and fitted the Velux. I guess much depends on the size you buy and how many rafters(?) you have to cut through to fabricate the right size hole.


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## Dibs-h (26 Jan 2010)

TrimTheKing":2aic1a8w said:


> Mornin' all
> 
> Quick one, hopefully. I need to get a new velux installed in babies new bedroom and while I would be able to work it out myself, to save time was hoping that someone on here may know a thing or two about them.
> 
> ...



Peace of pineapple - proverbially speaking. I've fitted 6 in our house ranging from the smallest to the largest on my own apart from the massive one - it's that big required 2 to man handle the sash.

*1st thing* - if it's going in the babies room - specify saftey glass for the DG unit (toughened outer pain & laminated inner). You need to know the spacing of your rafters and ensure you have sufficient space from wallplate to purlin (so that it fits and looks right).

Basically - cut a hole in the ceiling to the edge of a rafter, nail\screw another one to it (double up), with one end on the wallplate\purlin and the other end on purlin\ridge - screw a cross piece top and bottom (think BR require doubled up top & bottom). Cut existing laths and bring roof tiles inside. Or cut the ceiling 2" from the rafter so that you can persuade the additional short rafter to go in - thereby requiring even less making good inside.

Screw frame - 2-3 screws in each corner thru special brackets - to rafters\cross pieces. You then cut & refit roof tiles back using the appropriate flashing kit for your roof tiles. I always fit a small lead apron under the front flashing - and have used small lead soakers instead of the pre-supplied pieces of flashing, when the odd one gets troublesome.

Fit caping onto of frame (upper bit) with a couple of screws and similar to the sash. Offer up the sash and it sort of clips in place.

I suspect you be wanting to fit someing like Size CO2 or MO4







They come in 2 finishes - wood or plastic coated (more aimed at bathrooms or kitchens).

Then just make good inside - assuming you've done the cuts into the ceiling carefully - there isn't a great deal to put right. There is a readymade lining kit that has all trim , etc. to complete the inside,

http://www.velux.co.uk/Products/Install ... m?pid=H041

Always a good idea to splay the surround to spread the light - non-splayed ones don't look all that nice IMO.

The following might be useful,

http://delvauxkoen.blogspot.com/2009/09 ... velux.html

It really is a doddle. Should be done in several hours - even if tiles\slates require cutting. Shop around for the best price - expect to pay at least 20% off list price. Drop me a PM if you want my nbr & to talk it thru, et.

HIH

Dibs


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## trousers (26 Jan 2010)

Well Dibs if it only takes you several hours to install and finish internally a Velux, I'd give up your day job and go fitting windows - you'll make a killing.

Trim, yes it is DIY able, but if it's your first one I'd allow a day.
Dibs hasn't explained half of the problems you may encounter when cutting the opening or installing the window.
What type of tile/slate is on the roof? Is there any underlay and what type? How do you detail the underlay so that if you've got a leaky roof above the velux the water doesn't get in around the frame? What type of insulation is in and around the roofspace you're putting the window into?
You need to ensure the frame is square and level so that the sash fits correctly and doesn't leak.
You need to take great care when positioning the frame in relation to the coursing of the tiles/slates (up and down and side to side). Otherwise you could easily end up with pieces of tile/slate too small to effectively fix to the roof in conjunction with the flashing. 
You have to go down 1 or 2 flights of stairs and outside every time you need to take the angle grinder to a tile.
If you use the correct flashing kit, and the window and kit are correctly installed, you _do not_ need any additional lead.
If you want splayed reveals around the window you need to be very careful where you position the rafters and trimmers when you create the opening to ensure a fixing for the plasterboard, and to make the finish symmetrical.
And if you live in a conservation area/or live in a listed building you'll need to use an approved style of window.


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## Dibs-h (26 Jan 2010)

trousers":26dpkrcd said:


> Well Dibs if it only takes you several hours to install and finish internally a Velux, I'd give up your day job and go fitting windows - you'll make a killing.
> 
> Trim, yes it is DIY able, but if it's your first one I'd allow a day.
> Dibs hasn't explained half of the problems you may encounter when cutting the opening or installing the window.
> ...



Whilst I can work at heights, rather be on terra firma - if man had been intented to spend lots of time off the ground - he'd have been given wings! :shock:

In our case the tiles were rosemary clays and a damn site easier to cut and the ready availability of tile and a halves made life easier. Looking back - the last one probably went rapid - whilst the first one went a damn site slower  

You're right, in that it will probably take Mark upto a day to do the first one - the thinking\getting it right in your head\etc will take far longer than the actual doing. But if he's doing a few then he should get quicker.


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## RogerS (26 Jan 2010)

What's been said. One word of caution. If you do go down the 'conservation' style Velux (which sits lower down on the roof line and is less obtrusive) then the framework that you or someone will be building is different to that needed for the normal Velux - size for size. DAMHIKT.

It will be a 'good' days work as well. No nipping off to the pub early :wink: Personally I'd ask around and get someone in who has been recommended. Reckon it shouldn't cost more than, say, £150 for a days work.


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## peter99 (27 Jan 2010)

As has been said putting in a velux is easy. Putting one in properly isn't.

You have to spend time working out the exact placing of it so the reveals inside are equal and square, the tiles outside are not tiny 'slips' on one / both sides, you have rafters on both sides doubled up (same with new trimmers across top and bottom of window, doubled up) and still leaving room for the velux to fit.

Once thats all worked out the rest is then pretty straightforward AS LONG AS YOU UNDERLINE THE ROOFING FELT ETC CORRECTLY TO THE FLASHING.

All this has been said above. It really is a case of think thrice, cut once and it will all come together. And as said above if the house is empty it;s a damn sight quicker to do than up / down stairs every 2 mins. 

I would have thought any decent 2nd fix joiner or roofer bearing the above in mind would want £200 to fit 1 as a one off with a discount for each extra one as a multiple job done at the same time.

Peter


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## devonwoody (27 Jan 2010)

Dont be tempted to purchase a cheaper version of this type of window.

Neighbour has a velox and a generic and he knows the difference.


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## RogerS (27 Jan 2010)

Any clues on how you find the rafters to begin with (I'm assuming a sloping ceiling already plasterboarded)?


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## peter99 (27 Jan 2010)

Either gentle tapping on the plasterboard (hollow between rafters 'tighter' on them) or use a metal/pipe detector, the small £5 to £10 jobbies.

Alternatively put a hole in the ceiling about the middle of ehere you want the velux and open it out adjusting to the above postings for fit.


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## devonwoody (27 Jan 2010)

Anyone tried fitting veluxi in thatched roofs?


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## MikeG. (27 Jan 2010)

I would only add to the above that the entirety of fitting a Velux can be done from the inside. If you are prepared to grind tiles inside, you won't even need to be doing the 2 flights of stairs thing......Of course, it would be easier to remove the tiles & battens from the outside.

If you contemplate a conservation roof light, I would gently steer you away from the Velux version, which is, in my view, quite the nastiest of their otherwise excellent products, and point you towards the Rooflight Company here......(and they make, incidentally, the most gorgeous frameless roof light).

Velux's fit onto the battens these days, not the rafters, so be careful when cutting your hole. You will easily fit it in a day. You probably won't get all the lining and trimming and making good done, but you will be watertight.

Mike


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## TrimTheKing (27 Jan 2010)

Thanks for all your comments guys.

Roger - To answer you question re rafters, they are exposed inside (unless they have gone to great length to make it look like they are and there are actually 2 sets one inside the plasterboard and the other outside...) , will take a pic when I get home and post up the proposed site for the new one and the existing ones so you can see.

I am a bit confuddled by the use of the names of roof components (rafters, purlins etc, and which is which, so I will have to do some research before I can start planning it, then refer back to you guys to make sure I am heading in the right direction.

Mike - Thanks for the link. I _think_ we have conservation windows in already (we definitely did at the other house across the road, but not sure about this one) and they seem quite substantial, so maybe they are not...I will probably go with the same model I would imagine but I will definitely keep these in mind.


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## Dibs-h (27 Jan 2010)

TrimTheKing":c8fj2s0x said:


> I am a bit confuddled by the use of the names of roof components (rafters, purlins etc, and which is which, so I will have to do some research before I can start planning it, then refer back to you guys to make sure I am heading in the right direction.



The following link may shed some light,

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?tit ... nstruction

Pictures too :wink:


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## MikeG. (27 Jan 2010)

TrimTheKing":3n62rf0p said:


> I am a bit confuddled by the use of the names of roof components (rafters, purlins etc, and which is which, .



Rafters.....the slopy bits of timber that go from the eaves up to the ridge
Joists......horizontal bits of timber that are usually the structure of the floor or ceiling
Purlins........horizontal timbers that run parallel with the ridge, often half-way up the rafters on the underside of the rafters, but sometimes at the ridge (ridge-purlin). DON'T CUT THESE!!!

Mike


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## TrimTheKing (27 Jan 2010)

Thanking you kindly chaps, the fog has now lifted.

To quote Johnny Nash (or Jimmy Cliff depending on your preference), I can see clearly now, just hopefully not through the big hole I make in the roof....


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## devonwoody (27 Jan 2010)

I thought joists were things you smoked on the QT


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## Dibs-h (27 Jan 2010)

devonwoody":36l5yz5b said:


> I thought joists were things you smoked on the QT



I would have paid to watch that conversation - "an eighth on an ounce mate - been a while, need to roll a joist tonight!"

:lol: :lol:


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