# Tips & Tricks



## Robbo3 (16 Feb 2018)

A pack of 4 long handled spoons from the £1 shop. Ideal for scooping out the shavings from a hollow form.






Grind away the top edge to make it smaller & drill a hole in the handle to hang it up.


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## Robbo3 (16 Feb 2018)

To blow out the shavings from a hollow form whilst keeping your eyes & nose out of the line of fire use a few inches of flexible tube which fits tightly over some solid tube.





Or make an organ blower. Basically a large bicycle pump used to blow the dust out of organ pipes in the days before electricity. Very handy for cleaning down the lathe if you haven't got a compressor. I've made several for other wood turners.
The body is 63mm rainwater down pipe with piston, piston rod, handle & end caps turned on the lathe.





The handle endcap has four entry holes for air.
The piston seal is a piece of leather. It has to have a one way valve to allow it to seal on the push stroke but allow air through on the return. It consists of a flap cut in the leather to cover a hole in the piston.





The organ blower was a tip printed in the Good Wood Working magazine (July 1994)


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## Robbo3 (18 Feb 2018)

Lathe dust collection made from rainwater fittings & a plastic sweet jar. Connects to a shop vac.


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## Robbo3 (26 Feb 2018)

An easy to make holder to stop your tools rolling off the lathe. Drill a line of holes in a batten then cut down the length. A batten underneath is used as a stop - or a pair to straddle the bed.





The tool handle was made from beech taken from a kneeling stool, hence the dowel tenons. I'll bet there's not another one like it.


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## SVB (1 Mar 2018)

Great post. Thanks for taking the time to put this up. Perhaps the start of a really interesting thread. 

I’ll take some photos may be but my tip is to buy a couple of cheap roller blinds to mount around the lathe. Then, when roughing etc and the chips are flying everywhere, you can pull them down to make a mess space and save having to clear up the whole workshop and every surface at the end.


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## marcros (2 Mar 2018)

Robbo3":3p9bodlb said:


> An easy to make holder to stop your tools rolling off the lathe. Drill a line of holes in a batten then cut down the length. A batten underneath is used as a stop - or a pair to straddle the bed.
> 
> 
> The tool handle was made from beech taken from a kneeling stool, hence the dowel tenons. I'll bet there's not another one like it.



I need to make one of these!


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## Robbo3 (3 Mar 2018)

SVB":2udpe12t said:


> I’ll take some photos may be but my tip is to buy a couple of cheap roller blinds to mount around the lathe. Then, when roughing etc and the chips are flying everywhere, you can pull them down to make a mess space and save having to clear up the whole workshop and every surface at the end.


That was going to be a tip for the future but now that you've brought it up, I use roller blinds attached to the front of shelves to protect them from shavings & dust.
My main protection is a shower curtain surrounding the lathe on three sides. It's a snug fit for one person because of where it's positioned but I have no other fixing points for it. One of the downsides of using a concrete sectional garage as a workshop.
There is also another roller blind further back which I can lower if there are two of us in attendance.


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## Robbo3 (3 Mar 2018)

Chuck Removal Wedges.

Although called chuck removal wedges they are ideal for many other jobs such as removing the tips from a live centre where the gap is too small even for the supplied removal tool.
Of course they are excellent for removing tight morse taper items in the lathe or pillar drill. Available in 1,2 & 3 Morse Taper sizes.
- http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... dges---NEW


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## Robbo3 (10 Mar 2018)

Sanding disk made from Corian (thanks Chrispy). Stepped so that it fits whichever chuck happens to be in use at the time. A self stick velcro pad enables standard 3" hook & loop disks to be used & swapped easily.






To clean the disks, laying on the bed is a tube of clear silicone which has been allowed to solidify. I use it as it is but there's no reason why it couldn't be cut into smaller pieces.


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## Robbo3 (18 Mar 2018)

Use cling film to stop wood drying out too quickly.






I call this mini pallet wrap but it can be called various names. 10 rolls & an applicator are £14 on ebay. I've been using these for about 3 years & I'm only on my third roll.
Mini pallet wrap


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## Bodger7 (23 Mar 2018)

Some great tips here. All relatively easy to achieve but they hadn't occurred to me! Thanks for sharing them.


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## Lazurus (23 Mar 2018)

I use lubricating wax on all steel surfaces and my tools and chucks to keep rust at bay over the damp months, coupled with a cheap second hand de humidifier, workshop stays damp and rust free. Cheap second hand curtains from a charity shop easily hung around work space again to catch chips and debris. A mechanics garage trolley keeps all the frequently used stuff right beside me and is easy to wheel out of the way when not required, also gives additional storage space. Old washing machine motor transformed into a 10" disk sander, been using this for 18 years and still going strong. And have just discovered Yorkshire Grit, brilliant stuff....... =D>


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## Robbo3 (1 Apr 2018)

Brushes.
I've started using synthetic brushes for applying sanding sealer, whether acrylic, cellulose or shellac, mainly because I've found that not only are they are easier to clean than other types but they are usable between sessions & of course they are cheap.






If I used lots of sanding sealer, I would hot melt glue a brush into the lid of the container.


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## Robbo3 (9 Apr 2018)

Magnets






I use magnets all over the workshop. On the tail stock are a 150mm rule, a set of dial calipers, (they require a larger magnet because of their weight). A paintbrush with embedded magnets in both sides of the handle, because it can be hung from anything metal & it normally lives on the drill press. Another paintbrush lives on a head stock magnet & the pencil has a countersunk magnet screwed onto its end ... so that it never gets lost in the shavings.
All the magnets are attached with a spot of superglue so that they stay put & don't come away with the tool.


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## Robbo3 (1 May 2018)

Dial Calipers





Very useful for accurate measurement especially if your eyesight isn't as good as it used to be.
The bottom two measure 10mm for one turn of the needle with each small mark being one tenth of a millimetre - more than accurate enough for any type of woodwork. The nylon ones are for general use & the metal ones for use on the lathe. One word of warning, round off the sharp corners of the internal legs if you use them on rotating wood.

The top pair measure in 64ths for the odd time when I need imperial & saves making a mistake with the size conversion.

The second pair from the top measure 5mm per rotation, which although more accurate, you have to take great care to see if the needle is in the 0-5 or 6-10 range.


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## Robbo3 (14 Jun 2018)

Not so much to do with wood turning but helpful if you get stuck.
Wing nut socket.




The core of the socket has to be wide enough to accept the centre of the wingnut. I think this was 13mm. Cut the slots with a hacksaw or angle grinder.
Of course you could use a pair of pliers but sometimes there's not enough room or the nuts may be rusted solid, as toilet seat bolts sometimes are, The socket allows much more torque.
BTW, I didn't sacrifice one from my best socket set, I bought it specially.


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## Robbo3 (18 Jun 2018)

As I get older I no longer have the feel or the strength of grip that I used to have. To that end I have a selection of holding devices along with ordinary/long nose pliers & mole grips. Now I can grip a thread to wire brush it (wire brush fitted to grinder) or chamfer the end or even shorten it.
The third pair from the left are sold as stainless steel fishing pliers but are useful because of the narrowness of the blades & the right hand pair are for seperating split links.






I also have (not in photo) a small length of 6mm thick metal bar which has been drilled & tapped from M3 to M10. Makes holding a bolt to cut it to length so much easier. If it protrudes too far, thread a nut on first & use it to lock the bolt against the bar.


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## gregmcateer (18 Jun 2018)

Awesome set of hints and tips, R.
Thanks for sharing them


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## Robbo3 (19 Jun 2018)

Your welcome.
It's all about sharing knowledge.


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## Kujo (19 Jun 2018)

Post should be called Woodworking Life Hacks. Going to be following. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Robbo3 (18 Jul 2018)

Bag Opener.
I hesitate to post this because these bag openers were once quite common especially for gardening, but I can't seem to find any now. However if you can find one they make cleaning up the shavings so much quicker & easier.


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## Robbo3 (14 Jan 2019)

Most liquids used for cleaning can be used more than once.






Don't throw used cleaning liquids away after their first use. Instead save each in its own container, the sediment will drop to the bottom leaving cleaned liquid behind.
Used paraffin for cleaning greasy items notably car parts & the protective grease on new items
Used white Spirit, Meths & Cellulose Thinners for cleaning brushes but not for thinning.


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## Jonzjob (14 Jan 2019)

Keep your superglue in the fridge, it lasts much longer. 

But don't let your PVA glue drop down to or near freezing point and keep it in the house in the winter if your workshop isn't heated. 

The same with epoxy resin or if it does get too cold it will go almost solid. If it does then put the containers in a small saucepan of hot water on the stove for 15 minutes and just let it simmer and it will return to liquid. Some people use the microwave, but as I don't like the things I stick to the water. It doesn't go above boiling does it :mrgreen:


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## Robbo3 (17 Jan 2019)

A cheap, bright light.






12w LED panel complete with transformer. Available in various sizes. This one is approx 150mm square & cost about £7 from Ebay.

I mounted mine on an articulated arm which hangs from a french cleat at the rear of the lathe. Also added an in line switch for convenience.


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## Robbo3 (30 Jan 2019)

Skewchigouges (Alan Beecham)






I've bought HSS blanks from Ashley Iles in the past to make items like a three point tool. That's a misnomer as really it's one point created by grinding three flats.
Phil.p posted a link to some cheap (£2.50 each now £4.65) 10mmx100mm HSS blanks, from an Amazon Hong kong seller, so I bought four (post1219767.html#p1219767).
I had always wanted to try a skewchigouge so this provided a cheap way of doing it.
Made 2 & lost both to other woodturners - beginners love them. Never mind, I have a cunning plan. I'll use a collet chuck handle (see next tip)


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## Phil Pascoe (30 Jan 2019)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SODIAL-200mm-R ... +200mm+hss


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## Phil Pascoe (30 Jan 2019)

I had ten 6mm x 100mm bars for small skews as well - even including a decent ferrule - http://www.gandmtools.co.uk/?s=ferrules - with an offcut for a handle the tool cost less than £1.50.  
They wouldn't cost much more now although the price of the steel seems to have nearly doubled.


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## Jonzjob (30 Jan 2019)

I have heard of skewchigouges and wondered what they were? That looks like a goodie. I may well finish up with a couple of those?

A few years back I got a couple of HSS 3/8" bars. One is now a skew gouge and the other a 3 point. The ferrules I used were French copper pipe. It's VERY hard and ideal for the job.

https://flic.kr/p/24aWqbf

A 3/8" round skew gouge is a real pleasure to use and perfect for detailed work.


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## Phil Pascoe (30 Jan 2019)

Yes, I have two 10mm round skews, one angled and the other straight. Much easier to use than flat ones.


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## Robbo3 (5 Feb 2019)

ER20 Collet handles.





There are several handles on the market, produced & sold by professional turners, which allow a quick change of tool. 
These were less than £8 each. Collets are approx £6-£8 if bought individually.
I think the material around the handle is shrink tube. It's only to take away the coldness of the metal.
You could of course add a much longer handle.
The bottom tool is just an angled flat ground on a 6mm HSS round bar with the nose ground like a spindle gouge.


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## Robbo3 (10 Feb 2019)

Collet Chucks






APTC Junior ER20 collet chuck
SCT ER32 collet chuck (Chronos)
Both chucks are M33 thread to fit my lathe.
Both collets shown can hold approx the same size. The ER20 is 13-12mm & the ER32 is 1/2".


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## Robbo3 (17 Feb 2019)

Anti-static wipes.

Stop dust being attracted to your face shield, goggles or glasses by giving them a wipe with a tumble dryer sheet. Leaves them smelling nice as well.

Also makes cleaning up after turning plastic or resin very easy, almost a pleasure.

If you keep it in a sealed plastic bag after use it can be re-used a number of times.
The same applies to tac rags.


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## Robbo3 (25 Feb 2019)

Pin Holder

Often I need to remove some ingrained dirt or paint from for example a screw head or clean out an aerosol nozzle or unbung the superglue bottle tube but my fingers wont grip a pin for too long. So cut off the head & hold the pin in either an Archimedes drill or a pin vice.


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## Robbo3 (10 Mar 2019)

Wood splitting wedges






The 2 on the left are probably over 70 years old.
The conical one is best used at the end of a log rather than in side grain.
A bolster & cold chisels can also be helpful.






I also use a chopper & lump hammer for splitting firewood logs.

A combination of wedges, chopper & lump hammer were used to split this ash log. Took about 10 minutes.


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## Robbo3 (22 Mar 2019)

Logsaw
You don't need a fancy device to saw up the occasional log, a chair will do. Probably best not to use with a chainsaw.


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## Jonzjob (22 Mar 2019)

Robbo3":lxq1pbbm said:


> Wood splitting wedges
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I use a 6 ton vertical electro/hydraulic log splitter. It certainly takes the back out of it :mrgreen: It will take up to 1 metre logs. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


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## Robbo3 (23 Mar 2019)

Horses for courses John.  I suspect you use yours mainly for splitting firewood whereas I only need to split large logs occasionally as in the case of the ash trunk shown.


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## Jonzjob (23 Mar 2019)

You got it in one R. But I have what the French call a 'coin' which is similar to one of your wedges that turns as you belt it in. Very efficient too. This is one of them

https://www.amazon.fr/Fiskars-%C3%A9cla ... in+de+bois

Once I get me head straight after our move back to the U.K. I will see what I can really contribute in ideas, but please excuse my sense of humour on this one :mrgreen:


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## Robbo3 (8 Apr 2019)

Wobble Chuck or Infinite Axis Chuck

Alan Stratton video - http://www.aswoodturns.com/2016/10/infinite-axis-chuck/
Made from a 2" pvc coupler, cut in half to make 2 chucks.











Various bottom & top rings to move the workpiece in or out.






The idea is that small woork pieces eg pendants, can be hot melt glued onto the moveable end to scribe an arc or multiple arcs.






This is a toy elephant's head where the trunk need sanding. Already having the chuck, it was quick & easy to knock up a suitable spacing ring.


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## Robbo3 (11 May 2019)

A visual aid that can be orientated to show grain direction for example the undercut rim of a bowl or inside shoulder of a hollow form so that you cut in the right direction ie downhill.


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## Robbo3 (8 Jun 2019)

Spanners for the lathe.

Lathes tend to use fairly large hardware. Even if you have the right size spanner getting the room to use it can often be a problem. Luckily, you only need to make adjustments on the odd occasion & unless you posess a socket set then a cheaper option is a box spanner.







With the variation in sizes, especially at the larger end, spanners tend to be somewhat expensive. Those made of pressed steel, or home made, won't take a much abuse. At long last there are some cheap (£6) adjustable spanners available from China. They look to be cast aluminium which should be stronger than the pressed steel, home made polycarbonite or wooden ones. Their shortcomings should be outweighed by their short length & massive adjustability.


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## SVB (10 Jun 2019)

Robbo3":3jka3nrt said:


> Spanners for the lathe.
> 
> At long last there are some cheap (£6) adjustable spanners available from China.



Do you have a link, looks great.

Simon


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## Robbo3 (11 Jun 2019)

SVB":4fx0yg54 said:


> Robbo3":4fx0yg54 said:
> 
> 
> > Spanners for the lathe.
> ...


Ebay item number 153291424786
£5.75


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## graduate_owner (18 Jun 2019)

I have a sheet of thin plywood on the floor at the back of my lathe. This helps to avoid damage to the end of my turning tools when they fall off the bed, which they always seem to do. I put them there temporarily rather than putting them back where they belong, but got fed up of having to re-sharpen after they hit the concrete floor.

K


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## Robbo3 (19 Jun 2019)

graduate_owner":puecrf21 said:


> I have a sheet of thin plywood on the floor at the back of my lathe. This helps to avoid damage to the end of my turning tools when they fall off the bed, which they always seem to do. I put them there temporarily rather than putting them back where they belong, but got fed up of having to re-sharpen after they hit the concrete floor.K


I agree but it depends on your lathe & your situation.
I have two shelves under my AT1628VS lathe. The bottom one holds heavy items to give the lathe some extra weight & the top one extends to the rear wall to collect anything that drops & to catch all the shavings. This makes cleaning up easier as they can all be brushed straight into a large plastic container. 
A simple tool holder for the lathe bed (as shown in previous photos) also helps.


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## Robbo3 (8 Jul 2019)

To save marking the work when sawing off the nub, place a credit card with a vee cut or notch cut out between the saw & the work.






The one on the left for small nubs & the one on the right for larger ones.
Apologies for the poor placing of the cards. The tool rest has nothing to do with the tip.


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## gregmcateer (8 Jul 2019)

That's cunning!


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## Phil Pascoe (8 Jul 2019)

So cunning I can't see what its for. :? :lol:


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## Jonzjob (8 Jul 2019)

More cunning than a cunning fox? 

Me too can't see what it is, but it looks good. I tried it but now my debit card doesn't work :shock: :? It sgould work because it's a new one :?:


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## Lazurus (8 Jul 2019)

graduate_owner":1bfug065 said:


> I have a sheet of thin plywood on the floor at the back of my lathe. This helps to avoid damage to the end of my turning tools when they fall off the bed, which they always seem to do. I put them there temporarily rather than putting them back where they belong, but got fed up of having to re-sharpen after they hit the concrete floor.
> 
> K



Sand a flat on the handle, stops them rolling about


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## gregmcateer (12 Jul 2019)

phil.p":2j5cwm22 said:


> So cunning I can't see what its for. :? :lol:



I am assuming it's for when you have finished turning and there's a little nub left at the end, where the workpiece is held in the lathe. To avoid marking the work when sawing off the nub, hold the card across the end of the workpiece, so the saw rubs against the card, rather than your creation. 
(I THINK!)


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## Phil Pascoe (12 Jul 2019)

Yes, I got there in the end. I was confused trying to work out which bit of the woodwork the cards were resting on he was trying to saw off.


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## Jonzjob (12 Jul 2019)

Robbo3":snywss2l said:


> Collet Chucks
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I don't think the 'rests' are owt to do with it? They are also shown on this post I've quoted from. Previous page and they ain't going to show here init! :?


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## Robbo3 (13 Jul 2019)

gregmcateer":198punie said:


> phil.p":198punie said:
> 
> 
> > So cunning I can't see what its for. :? :lol:
> ...


You've got it. Even a saw with no set on one side marks the rim especially if it's slightly hollowed - well it does when I try it.
Thinking that the tool rest would show the scale I didn't consider that the rest could be considered as part of the tip in my poor photo.


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## Jonzjob (13 Jul 2019)

Just found this Robo. I always use my Carrol drum sander to sand of my little nubs off :shock:


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## Robbo3 (13 Jul 2019)

Jonzjob":3h404ahf said:


> Just found this Robo. I always use my Carrol drum sander to sand of my little nubs off :shock:


Is that the pneumatic type where you can alter the pressure?


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## Robbo3 (13 Jul 2019)

Let's see if this clears up the confusion.

To save marking the work when sawing off the nub, place a credit card with a vee cut or notch cut out between the saw & the work.


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## Jonzjob (13 Jul 2019)

Robbo3":2fju2v5m said:


> Jonzjob":2fju2v5m said:
> 
> 
> > Just found this Robo. I always use my Carrol drum sander to sand of my little nubs off :shock:
> ...



No Robo, it's one of these, 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1p_Cn9McIsc

but mine is used on my pillar drill. It has a semi hard thin rubber surface and I use Rhynogrip velcro backed abrasives in it. The velcro backing doesn't really matter, but the stuff is very good and supplied from someone on the forum. Sorry, but I don't have the name to hand . I managed to damage the rubber foam on my bigger sander and after a phone call to them they sent me some more to replace it. From the thread below they have gone out of business when Bill Carrol died. His son, Simon, is looking to produce them again. After all they are the best you can get.

carroll-tools-drum-sander-t116196-30.html

Last time I used mine was yesterday to sand the legs on a small garden table. Easy, quick and good. 

So good luck to Simon Carroll


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## Robbo3 (14 Jul 2019)

Jonzjob":3l9od558 said:


> No Robo, it's one of these,
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1p_Cn9McIsc
> 
> but mine is used on my pillar drill. It has a semi hard thin rubber surface and I use Rhynogrip velcro backed abrasives in it. The velcro backing doesn't really matter, but the stuff is very good and supplied from someone on the forum. Sorry, but I don't have the name to hand . I managed to damage the rubber foam on my bigger sander and after a phone call to them they sent me some more to replace it. From the thread below they have gone out of business when Bill Carrol died. His son, Simon, is looking to produce them again. After all they are the best you can get.
> ...


Yep, I like the quick change drum sanders. APTC do poorer versions. These amongst others
- https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-s ... s-ax896201

I believe Richard Findley supplies Rhyno Grip abrasives
- https://turnersworkshop.co.uk/


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## HappyPixie (22 Jul 2019)

I finish most of my items (mostly bowls) with various oils. I found that when I left them to dry on a work surface there could be marks (from the surface) left on my bowl foot. I snapped some lengths of bandsaw blades and cut some perpendicular slots with a thin tenon saw in a rough old plank. A little Araldite in the grooves and then insert the saw blade strips. I turned it upside down and rested in on a flat surface for the epoxy to cure, to ensure the blade teeth all stayed parallel. Now there are only ever a few tiny dots of contact and the bowls don't show any marks.
I made a couple of long strip versions when I did some shelves which I coated with Osmo oil.
Works for me.
Thanks for all your tips.
Steve


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## Robbo3 (23 Jul 2019)

HappyPixie":3g6gd9ks said:


> Thanks for all your tips.


You're welcome.
Thanks for yours.


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## Robbo3 (1 Oct 2019)

Centre Finders.
Axminster with 60° & 90°. Engineer's centre finder







300mm from Jennie Starbuck.
- http://www.artycraftywoodturning.com/
I've emailed her & she will sell these online but says the postage outweighs the £5 cost of of the disc.






Home made






Stiles & Bates (£11.90)
- https://www.stilesandbates.co.uk/produc ... 0/sn/SBLCM


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## Robbo3 (21 Oct 2019)

Grindstone Dressing
A little job ideally suited to the lathe.
I have an ancient Black & Decker electric drill bit sharpener. The grindstone is about 60mm Ø & tapers towards the centre. Over the years the wheel suffered a glazed track where the bits touched it. No replacement stones were available from B & D so I decided to attempt to dress the wheel myself.
To mount it I used a length of hardwood dowel held in the long nose chuck jaws & turned to a push fit. Except that I made it a fraction too small & had to use masking tape to bring it back up to size. The tenon shoulder helps the stone to run true.






A single point diamond dresser was used gently to unglaze the wheel.


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## Richard_C (7 Nov 2019)

I like the perspex disc center finders, its on my 'make' list now and I will put 4 extra holes to mark out screws for faceplate - thanks.

Here's a few dead simple things I find useful. New to woodturning but not new to general diy/fixing/making.

My lathe is the belt move type rather than variable speed. Set it up, go away for a week, what speed did I leave it on? Unscrew guard - long thread on bolt so takes a while - just to see what it is. Had all sorts of ideas like fitting a transparent panel to the belt guard, ended up with this - a piece of paper stuck to the leg and a magnet you can move about.






Next up, all that measure three times cut once stuff we learn. I have a chuck and 3 sets of jaws. On a piece of paper stuck on the side of a cupboard I have listed the ranges and marked up shaded areas with the ranges. That means you can measure and/or simply put the calipers to the chart and use that. Also helpful to stare at while you think "hmm, how can I mount that .....?"






I had the luxury of a double garage with no real need to keep a car in it, but now an adult offspring is back home for several months so I need a cars-worth of space. Rearranged to suit, and made 3 'screens' that I can move around to give a bit of protection. Left over fibre board underlay and some 'stick' I had in. A coat of leftover ceiling emulsion helps with light, and it helps watching the far side of the profile as you work. I wouldn't start on a big chunk of out of balance wood with a car nearby but for most situations its fine - car isn't in the firing line.






All simple, a bit too simple for people here but beginners like me might get some ideas.


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## Robbo3 (9 Nov 2019)

They are brilliant Richard. Thank you.

Deep Sanding

Locking forceps
NB: Hold the outside, not with fingers through the handles. If the abrasive catches it could do serious damage.
Dowels with a slot cut to hold the abrasive. Use hand held or with a drill.
If you fold the end over & secure it with an elastic band you can use it to sand the bottom.






Small flap wheels & 200 x m4 arbors
Flap wheels: 30 x 10 & 20 x 10mm, M4, 40-320g, £2.30 each
Arbors M4: 100mm £2.17, 200mm £2.77
- https://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/flap-wheel-abrasives


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## Jonzjob (9 Nov 2019)

I hope that those flap wheels work Rob as I have just ordered some :mrgreen: :mrgreen: 

I have a flap wheel that I have had forever and it's getting a bit worn down now, but it's different in that the flaps are also cut into separate fingers It makes it really good on curved surfaces. The problem is that I haven't been ablt to replace it and can't remember where I got it from


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## Robbo3 (10 Nov 2019)

Jonzjob":2x2vwecn said:


> I have a flap wheel that I have had forever and it's getting a bit worn down now, but it's different in that the flaps are also cut into separate fingers It makes it really good on curved surfaces. The problem is that I haven't been able to replace it and can't remember where I got it from


Make your own. This one is emery cloth.


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## Robbo3 (2 Dec 2019)

Drill Chucks
Handle
Rather than hold a drill bit with pliers or mole grips & risk scoring the shank, you could just hold the bit in a small hand held chuck. As long as you make a central indent larger than the bit, it will self centre. Same applies when using a spindle gouge to bore a central hole. None of this wobbling all over the place & making an oversize hole.
I added an old handle that was not likely to get used for anything else.
Most Jacobs type chucks, whether hand or key tightening are threaded 1/2"x 20 UNF for 13mm capacity chucks & 3/8"x24 UNF for 10mm capacity chucks. The threads are mainly female but there are a few with a male stud. Source a suitable bolt, cut off the head & locktite the thread into the chuck. Drill out the handle to suit & epoxy the other end of the thread into the handle. I drilled all the way through & added a pin to prevent the stud from turning.






This drill chuck is mounted onto a 3/4x16 UNF adaptor, which was made for me by a club member, to fit my first lathe. I could use a another adaptor to mount it but it's just as quick & easy to hold it in the chuck.


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## Richard_C (12 Dec 2019)

I'm learning a lot just by reading old posts on this forum, not got back to page 631 yet but when its too cold to get out in the garage for very long its not a bad way to spend some time and learn a bit.

Now for some more simple things. "Free Stuff - yippee".

A while back I had a delivery in a big cardboard box, and the staples were still on my workbench when I was standing there looking out into the garden and having a think. Empty brain, that's when ideas happen. Oh...free makers mark.

Those big staples bend easily in one dimension but are pretty stable in the other. Quick curve around a screwdriver shaft, a minute with pliers and a cork from a wine bottle. Being light and copper it glows red in a blowlamp is seconds.







Moving on. I'm not a cheapskate, honest, happy to spend good £££ for decent tools that I will use a lot. But some things that I'm not sure about, will I use lots or will I not, or is it so simple its easy to diy, well then I'm happy to try things out.

There was a topic here about bowl sanders, so I looked at a few then saw a kit which was mainly a bearing. So, stand in garage and think, surely I must have a spinny-thing in my bits box. And there was,a caster. The plastic wheel bit might have been a place to start but maybe not that robust, but the spindle looked useful. Process, bit of old rolling pin, shape, drill, thwack caster shaft in, ca glue first some stiff foam packing then a softer bit of old mousemat then a bit of velcro from the sewing box. Quick makeshift handle to try it, will do a better one if I end up using it a lot, dab of 3 in 1 down the shaft and ......

It works! Bit noisy but can't see why I would need anything else. I made the wooden bit long enough to take the caster, if I do it again I iwll do is so that the total length (wood+foam layers) takes the caster so overall its a bit shorter. Fine as it is for outside work and shallow curve inside work, bit clumsy for small inside work but there are good alternatives in the post just a couple before this one.




]


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## Robbo3 (13 Dec 2019)

I like your thinking. Keep it up.


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## ed-fish (15 Dec 2019)

Bodger7":ses6213f said:


> Some great tips here. All relatively easy to achieve but they hadn't occurred to me! Thanks for sharing them.


 Seconded. 
Great tips.


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## ed-fish (15 Dec 2019)

Robbo3":1dzm0wji said:


> Magnets
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Brilliant idea. Will use this one tomorrow. :lol:


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## HappyPixie (17 Dec 2019)

Going back to the centre finders. I print my own. You can buy acetate A4 laser printer sheets which were once used for overhead projectors (back in the day). You can buy 5, 10 or 50 sheets on several e-commerce sites for between £5 and £15. I created a document with concentric rings and marked the centre points for the holes on my ML8 faceplate as well as 90° and 120° axes. I just move the sheet around the blank until I can fit most of it in, mark the centre with a bradawl through the centre of the acetate sheet and mark the positions of the faceplate screw positions (if required). Then I use the centre point and a compass to mark a circle and run the bandsaw around the circumference. I now have the centre marked (for steb centre work) and the positions for the screws (if I use a faceplate).
If you have a Myford ML8, the PDF should be downloadable below.


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## HappyPixie (17 Dec 2019)

Another printout I created is a visual aid. When I start a bowl, sometimes the grain on the surface makes the use of a wide rim appropriate. In order to get an idea of which ratio of hollow to rim I might like I refer to the PDF below to see what might work. It's just a bunch of different rim to hollow ratios illustrated on an A4 page.


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## Robbo3 (18 Dec 2019)

Thanks. The circles ratio is ideal for those of us that can't see proportions.


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## Phil Pascoe (18 Dec 2019)

https://www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/calculators/divider

This one's useful as well.


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## Richard_C (18 Dec 2019)

This is all good stuff. You can also print custom divider charts if you use excel or any similar software like open office or google sheets.

In a new worksheet put "1" in cell A1 then copy it down - in this example for total 8 rows (A to H). Highlight the range, from ribbon menu insert chart - pie chart - drag to resize as you want - format chart 'no fill' - chart design, elements, no legend or key, then you have a simple printable circle with 8 equal segments as a marking tool.

The advantage of this method is flexibility. Want 6 points, fill 6 rows. Into fibbonacci series and want charts with 5, 8 and 13 then fill that number of rows for each. You can play with inequalities - so fill the rows 1,1,3,1,1,3,1,1,3,1,1,3 you get 4 sets of 3 point s with equal gaps between each set.


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## Robbo3 (21 Mar 2020)

Copy Holder











A piece of hardboard & a couple of scrap pieces to make a holder to view pictures or drawings without the need to keep turning away from the lathe.


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## Robbo3 (8 Apr 2020)

Lathe Dust Collection

Standard rainwater fittings used to collect dust at the lathe with a shop vac. The top is an inverted sweet jar hot melt glued onto the down pipe. A wooden flange was turned to accept the dust hose & glued into place.






Mine sits out of the way on a shelf below the bed of the lathe.






The jar can be replaced with a rainwater hopper (& a 90° bend) if a larger hood is needed.






There are commercial types (eg Rockler) which use a banjo system to hold the dust hood.






Lots of videos on Youtube showing different mounting methods. I particularly like baconsoda's idea for it's simplicity
- (starts at about 3m 30s) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKDYJwKy9nw


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## Richard_C (8 Apr 2020)

Good stuff, just thinking about a vac solution as I don't do enough to justify a proper extractor - yet. Got a proper dust mask now which makes life a lot better - the disposables were inadequate.

I had thought of making the hood out of a 4 pint milk container - inexpensive to the point of free-ness. Won't look as good as yours but will post anything I do come up with - if it works.

Thanks.


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## Robbo3 (16 Apr 2020)

For a few selected tools & selected situations I've started using easy grip 13 amp plugs.







One situation is the gang of sockets behind the wood burner flue.


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## Robbo3 (19 Nov 2020)

Pressure relief Valve - used on the dust container under a cyclone or, as in my case, a Thien baffle.

I had a couple of clear plastic discs & some offcuts of metal strapping in the bits box.






Underside mock up






Topside


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## Robbo3 (5 Feb 2021)

Abrasive Cleaner
To clean clogged cloth backed abrasive use a spray oven cleaner. Can also be used on paper backed abrasive as long as you don't get it too wet.
Allow time for the cleaner to work then scrub with a stiff brush.
Also works for router cutters & saw blade teeth. Create a puddle of cleaner in the lid & use with an old toothbrush.


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## Democritus (5 Feb 2021)

Robbo
Could you put a photo up showing the shelving under your 1628 lathe. I’ve often thought it would be a good idea.
D


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## Robbo3 (6 Feb 2021)

Democritus said:


> Robbo
> Could you put a photo up showing the shelving under your 1628 lathe. I’ve often thought it would be a good idea.
> D


There is nothing special about the shelves. The spacing is governed by flats on the leg castings.
The top shelf is made of hardboard resting on 2 battens. I made it in 2 pieces for ease of cutting out the complicated shape & making sure it reached the back wall. It's not required to take anything weighty but it does allow quick & easy removal of the shavings.
The bottom shelf is an offcut of plywood resting on 2 battens. This does take whatever heavy items I can find to act as ballast.


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## Adam Pinson (6 Feb 2021)

Robbo3 said:


> An easy to make holder to stop your tools rolling off the lathe. Drill a line of holes in a batten then cut down the length. A batten underneath is used as a stop - or a pair to straddle the bed.
> View attachment 67311
> 
> 
> The tool handle was made from beech taken from a kneeling stool, hence the dowel tenons. I'll bet there's not another one like it.


Good advice..... i found a second hand hairdryer that i keep attached to my lathe, not only is it good for fast clear up but the warm setting is good for 1: warming hands in winter and 2: warming my 5 minute epoxy in winter so it comes out of the bottles better.


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## Robbo3 (24 Feb 2021)

Thanks Adam. 
Forgot to add a photo of the rear of the sanding board in my previous tip.
The idea for the board came from Alan Stratton at As Wood Turns.


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## Robbo3 (4 Mar 2021)

Some years back needed a quick centre steady so made this.


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## Robbo3 (16 Jul 2021)

Fed up with not finding pencils & small drills this little stand makes them readily available.


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## Robbo3 (3 Aug 2021)

Bandsaw light.
Even though it's fairly light in my workshop I always seem to be in my own light when using my little bandsaw. By chance I came across a 30 LED lamp on Ebay for £6, sold as a sewing machine aid.





Conveniently it has a magnetic base & it's own power switch but the lead is a little too short so I cut off the 2 pin plug (it comes with a 3 pin adaptor), drilled a 5mm hole in the top of the column & wired it directly to the bandsaw switch. Now the light goes on & off with the machine.










I was so impressed that I bought a second one as a movable temporary light for where ever it's needed.


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## Cabinetman (3 Aug 2021)

If you must insist on using a garage for putting your car in – what an idea! 
This should stop the car making a mess of your vice bar, this one is a swimming noodle but a length of pipe insulation would work just as well, the string obviously is to keep it in a U shape, works remarkably well as long as you remember to look at it!


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## Cabinetman (3 Aug 2021)

Now you wouldn’t think panel pins had much to do with this monster, but joining the two halves of the L-shaped top needed precision, the brass pins are just screws with the heads cut off, but they had to be put in exactly the right place as did the holes in the other half of the desktop to receive them.



S
This can be used in all sorts of different situations where a holes have to be drilled that lineup, and anywhere else you can possibly think of, a panel pin is knocked in half an inch or so and then head is cut off leaving about 2 mm this is quite sharp and will mark anything pushed up against it and there you have it, the pin is then pulled out and a centre punch is used to really keep the drill centred. Ian


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## Cabinetman (3 Aug 2021)

That bloody desktop again! The long bit was 8 feet long and I wanted it cut square and at 90° Now my saw is big and tough but the whip on that heavy bit of wood was causing problems so this is what I came up with, worked brilliantly.


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## Jonzjob (3 Aug 2021)

Robbo3 said:


> Bandsaw light.
> Even though it's fairly light in my workshop I always seem to be in my own light when using my little bandsaw. By chance I came across a 30 LED lamp on Ebay for £6, sold as a sewing machine aid.
> 
> View attachment 115241
> ...



I have had my Startrite 301S for about 25 yaars now and have had a light wired in like that for most of the time, but it isn't as good as that one looks. Mine is mounted on an old CB radio MagMount magnet and is on the door. It's a bug ger to move when I have to open the door, but it definitely won't fall off!

Robo, have you got a link for those lights? I would like a couple, one on my lathe too..


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## Jonzjob (3 Aug 2021)

Firm but soft sanding blocks? 

Going back to Cabinet man's swimming noodle above. I have used bits of the swimming baguettes/noodles we had in France. About a 4" long bit cut down the centre and some sticky backed velcro on it and a piece of Rhynogrip adhesive on it and you have a block that will sand flat surfaces as well as all sorts of shapes on or off the lathe and on the lathe it saves your fingers having to go inside bowls and hollows.


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## Gordon Tarling (3 Aug 2021)

Although the price is a bit more than Robbo3's light, I recently bought one of these for use with my Sabre 350 bandsaw. It gives a good light and has the advantages of being able to turn the magnet off for easy removal, as well as being magnetised on two faces, making positioning it easier on some machines.

G.


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## Robbo3 (4 Aug 2021)

Gordon, I also have one similar that I use on the lathe but I find it somewhat cumbersome because of it's long neck.

Jonzjob
Sewing machine light, UK sellers
Ebay item numbers :
£5.70 - 224513778118
£6.60 - 154530321125
£6.69 - 353598218137
£6.74 - 324333883229
£6.89 - 384087693199
etc.


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## Jonzjob (4 Aug 2021)

2 on order, ta


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## Robbo3 (13 Oct 2021)

At last I've found a use for a permanently mounted faceplate ring.




Previous discs mounted on a faceplate made them awkward to store & took up more room than I would like.


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