# Sprayed MDF Storage units.



## Mreagleeyes (28 Mar 2010)

Hello folks. 
This is a sort of continuation from *Matt_S* post.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/desk-shelving-unit-t40172.html

Thanks to Matt, Paul & Simon (Oryxdesign) for the previous help from the post above. 
I'll give you a call Simon before putting the coloured coat on.

This is my take on assembling & spraying MDF using the Earlex Spray system from Argos and paint from Morrells in Park Royal.

*The spray system.*





As a first time sprayer I thought I would go with a cheap system and see how I got on.

*The drawings.*




Incorporating a boiler in the top right unit.

*The lower large unit.*




Constructed using 19mm MDF and the good old Domino and screws. Titebond III through out. Could have done with a few more clamps but didn't have any more so had to do with 4.

*Detailed section.*




I decided to use the dominos as shelf supports like Matt had done from the previous thread and was unsure whether to spray with the dominos in place or spray with them removed, in the end I removed them.
I cut a 10mm 'slot' in the back edges to take the 6mm backing board.

*The mistake.*




Always check the machines for depth of cut. With so many varying depths of cut with the domino because of the 19mm MDF and whether your cutting in face or edge. A lesson learned.

*The spray kit and paint.*





*The units*




Preparing for spraying. I machine sanded all faces with the palm sander before construction using Grits from 160 - 240. I then gave a hand finish to bevel all edges and get rid of any glue and pencils marks.

*Glue*




I wish that I had used the smaller of the dominos as the 6mm seem very large. 

*My spraying process*




The bowl on the left contains the Thinners and I used this to clean out the sprayer and also store the needle of the sprayer over night. I could simply come in the following morning and assemble the 'gun' again with all components cleaned and ready to go.
I had to lightly clamp down the motor for the sprayer as once it's going it had a mind of it's own. A relatively noisy machine I thought.

*Dust dust dust!!!.*




It gets everywhere. I was going to build a sort of sheeted booth but thought in the end that I would just give the place a good clean once finished.

*And so does the paint.*




Unfortunately not in a position to have a design room and also a workshop so I just get on with it. Think a bit of paint adds some character to a workshop. 

*First coat.*




With other unit underneath and backing board to the right. Be aware of how you store the MDF, I was noticing that it was bowing slightly as I had stored it on edge leaning against the wall. I have since moved all components to a flat area.

*Second coat Prior to sanding!!.*




This makes it look awful but once sanded lightly I get a good clean finish that I'm happy with, If I'm wrong let me know.
I did discover that the spray system sometimes seemed to 'spit' the paint out and give large paint mark drops, as above. I'm hoping that once I get the hang of it for the final 2 colour coats I should have it in order.
I would be interested to find out the best method for finishing the surface, be that ScotchBrite, 1500 wet & dry or even a polishing process to give the surface a clean flat surface.

*Preparing the shelves.*





*The most important thing.*




A good mask, the fumes get everywhere and even walking in to the yard the following morning I could smell the fumes in the air. The dog is with dad till I get these units out.


So first impressions. I find that for £50 you can't go wrong on the spray system and as an introduction to spraying it does the job. 
The paint is relatively expensive, I have used just under 5 ltrs on the 2 units and back panels, there is still the large unit to make and spray but that's for tomorrow.
The domino has proved once again why it is such a great machine, all faces are perfectly square with each other and the precision of the repeated cuts that I got with the shelf supports makes it a top tool.
The primer dries in about 15 minutes, though I gave it 30 minutes as I got a little too keen at one stage and sanded though the dry section to the wet underneath and ended up with paint filled sandpaper. All a learning curve.

So just the large unit & doors to construct and spray and then the final coats of the clients colour, they are still undecided. 
I am still undecided on how the units will be fixed to the breeze block wall, maybe some small corner pieces that I could screw into the inside corners and then in turn screw to the walls. 

I'll keep this post updated until completion. Thanks for looking and that's all folks for the time being.
Patrick


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## Chems (29 Mar 2010)

I have to say, in your situation you couldn't go wrong with a bit of outdoor spraying. I've done it in the summer and other than a few creatures in the finish it saves all the fumes inside and everything ending up white.

The test of your gun will be can you get it clean enough to spray a lacquer coat at a later date? My plastic gun which looks identical to yours I can't get it clean enough anymore so that when I change colours or product a bit of the last stuff comes out with it.


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## speed (29 Mar 2010)

i have the same sprayer and i pin up some old dustsheets.

ive also found the spray setting has to be set around 1/2 turn from closed so only a fine mist sprays, anymore and it starts spitting. i only spray waterbased so easy to clean


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## CNC Paul (29 Mar 2010)

Patrick,

You seem to have used an excessive amount of paint on your two units, was that just base coat or both base and top coat ?

Did you thin any of the primer and paint ?

You should be able to get a smooth finish straight from the gun, although I do not know if that is possible with the Earlex.

Anyway that was a good first try, I think we have all been there.


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## RobertMP (29 Mar 2010)

I can only echo what has been said above - Get some cloth dustsheets from B+Q or similar they protect the stuff you are covering and are a bit absorbent to hold on to the overspray..... and your paint may be too thick which means the gun cannot atomise it properly resulting in the blob type spatter.

Apart from that it looks good


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## lemonjeff (29 Mar 2010)

Patrick,
I agree with Paul the splattering looks like the paints not thinned enough, your gun looks the same as the one that came with my Apollo, I also got a problem with splattering when paint dries on the nozzle, to stop that I use a tooth brush on the nozzle after I sprayed each part.

Interesting thread and good pictures  

Jeff


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## Dibs-h (29 Mar 2010)

lemonjeff":3eojgud8 said:


> Patrick,
> I agree with Paul the splattering looks like the paints not thinned enough, your gun looks the same as the one that came with my Apollo, I also got a problem with splattering when paint dries on the nozzle, to stop that I use a tooth brush on the nozzle after I sprayed each part.
> 
> Interesting thread and good pictures
> ...



The Earlex shouldn't have any issue spraying WB - anything else I don't know. I'v sprayed shellac with it in the past and it's gone on perfectly.

The one thing to bear in mind is that every now and then it's good practice to wipe your finger tip over the nozzle and air holes either side to remove the dried paint that accumulates there.

Assuming your paint is WB - did you run it thru the viscosity cup and get the flow under 60s or whatever it is?


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## Mreagleeyes (29 Mar 2010)

> I have to say, in your situation you couldn't go wrong with a bit of outdoor spraying.


Would be perfect, unfortunately the Gazebo has the large piece of Magnolia drying under it and the weather has been terrible here, there was even a report of snow!!.

I have bought 3 dust sheets so should be able to contain more of the over spray, I'm in a small workshop and everything seems to be getting in the way at the moment. 



> Did you thin any of the primer and paint ?


I checked the Viscosity of the paint and on the first attempt it seemed that the paint had been thinned too much as I was getting a sort of water spray, second attempt was a little better, around 10% mix and then I thought I would go 100% primer on the final coat, not something I would do again, lesson learnt on that one.



> The one thing to bear in mind is that every now and then it's good practice to wipe your finger tip over the nozzle and air holes either side to remove the dried paint that accumulates there.


The two air holes on the nozzle seem to get blocked up very quickly, I put this down to the paint not being thinned enough. 



> You seem to have used an excessive amount of paint on your two units, was that just base coat or both base and top coat ?


All units have had two coats of primer, I was a little keen on getting a good edge on the front faces so these may have been 'Over' sprayed. 
Is that possible?.



> I've also found the spray setting has to be set around 1/2 turn from closed so only a fine mist sprays, anymore and it starts spitting.


I think this was one area that I got it wrong, I was seeing a much finer spray earlier today when I closed the needle a little more and as a result the 'spitting' paint was banished.

I have constructed the tall unit and will take all comments on board and will spray tomorrow with my new found knowledge.
Thanks all.


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## chippy1970 (29 Mar 2010)

Mreagleeyes":3jibhuya said:


> > Be aware of how you store the MDF, I was noticing that it was bowing slightly as I had stored it on edge leaning against the wall. I have since moved all components to a flat area.



YEP learnt that one I never leave any mdf leaning against anything for any amount of time it doesnt take long to bow.

By the way you look like you're well on your way down the black and green slippery slope :lol:


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## Mreagleeyes (29 Mar 2010)

> By the way you look like you're well on your way down the black and green slippery slope



You're not wrong. And what a slope it is, looked at the Barrell Grip Jigsaw they do today in my local Festool dealer and I have talked myself into getting it. I have a perfectly good Bosch one at the moment but it's not that lovely Black & Green colour. Madness.
Some people dream of buying a sports car if the Lotto money came in, mine would be a huge workshop with the Systainers on every wall.


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## Mr Mike (29 Mar 2010)

That really is madness. I love festool myself (ts55, of2200, of1400, domino & ctmidi) but bosch really do make fantastic jigsaws that last a lifetime.


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## Mr Mike (29 Mar 2010)

That really is madness. I love festool myself (ts55, of2200, of1400, domino & ctmidi) but bosch really do make fantastic jigsaws that last a lifetime.


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## Oryxdesign (29 Mar 2010)

I find I have to thin the primer about 15%, it seems to be much harder to spray than the top coat. Don't worry though it's very easy to rub and you will end up with a good finish.

S


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## Oryxdesign (29 Mar 2010)

Wait for the new Festool jigsaw, it's seriously impressive.


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## wizer (29 Mar 2010)

That speckled finish reminds me of my first and only attempt with my HVLP kit. I just found spraying for the 'DIY'er' to be too messy. You need a dedicated space to spray and plenty of patience with the setup. Good to know it wasn't just me who got those sort of results on the first go. Makes me want to try again.


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## Oryxdesign (29 Mar 2010)

Start with lacquer Tom, it's much easier, doesn't make so much mess and will give you the confidence to move on.

Simon


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## OPJ (29 Mar 2010)

In the new issue of _Good Woodworking_ magazine, Andy King makes a dead simple spray booth that could be set up outdoors and easily dismantled. :wink: I'm sure Steve Maskery also did something similar, a few years ago.


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## wizer (29 Mar 2010)

Oryxdesign":2d10vazg said:


> Start with lacquer Tom, it's much easier, doesn't make so much mess and will give you the confidence to move on.
> 
> Simon



Cheers Simon. I'm sure I will pick your brains when the time comes


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## johnf (29 Mar 2010)

Mreagleeyes

Is that water based paint and how much is the paint (The paint is relatively expensive,) 

I am thinking of doing something like this myself

john


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## Matt_S (29 Mar 2010)

As Simon mentioned the primer is thicker and trickier to paint than the top coat. I found that 20% thinners worked for the primer. Did you get the pre cat or ac paint in the end? Top coat I thinned to just a little under 10% it is quite a bit thinner out of the tin.


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## Mreagleeyes (29 Mar 2010)

Oryxdesign":kco1ipr3 said:


> Don't worry though it's very easy to rub and you will end up with a good finish.
> 
> S



Exactly what I'm finding. It's sand perfectly and it has maintained a good 'thickness' on the edges so am relatively happy. 
Should have the blend of paint and thinners and also the needle opening about right for when I attempt the coloured finish.
A proper DIY spray lesson that I've learnt and can only get better at.


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## Mreagleeyes (29 Mar 2010)

Oryxdesign":1ml04d1p said:


> Wait for the new Festool jigsaw, it's seriously impressive.



Waiting like a dog for a bone.


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## chippy1970 (29 Mar 2010)

my dealer told me the jigsaw is here in may. He had the rep in with one last week and he said they are the nuts. They have several removable bases like the 2200 router. I think they start at about £290 for the basic saw upto £400 plus for the full kit.


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## Oryxdesign (30 Mar 2010)

Still looks "good value" when you compare it to the mafelle


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## Mr Mike (30 Mar 2010)

I guess like any tooling, it depends on what you'll be using it for.

The only time mine comes out of the box is for cutting scribed stiles, rails or end panels for built in furniture.

I love a new tool as much as the next fetishist, but can't see how it'll make my work more accurate, precise or faster.

I remember a rep showing me the perfect 90 degree curvy cuts it could make in a laminate worktop. Brilliant I exclaimed, but (for me) completely pointless ! :lol: 

I'd be amazed if they could completely cure a jigsaw blade wandering off 90 degrees (a slower feed rate and correct pendulum setting for the material cures this for me), which they have significantly improved with the festool jiggy and bosch gst135, and for me improved dust extraction is always a benefit in any tool.


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## chippy1970 (30 Mar 2010)

Heres a scan of the spring offers leaflet I picked up, it doesnt mention it here but the dealer said it has a light as well a "strobe light" he said I dont know if thats right or not.


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## wizer (30 Mar 2010)

I don't need a jigsaw I don't need a jigsaw I don't need a jigsaw I don't need a jigsaw I don't need a jigsaw I don't need a jigsaw I don't need a jigsaw I don't need a jigsaw I don't need a jigsaw I don't need a jigsaw I don't need a jigsaw I don't need a jigsaw I don't need a jigsaw I don't need a jigsaw


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## Jake (30 Mar 2010)

I saw these in Lakeside Tools last weekend - can't say I really looked at them, as I have no need for a cordless jigsaw, and those were the only versions they had.


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## Mreagleeyes (30 Mar 2010)

johnf":6oicg8ja said:


> Mreagleeyes
> 
> Is that water based paint and how much is the paint (The paint is relatively expensive,)
> 
> ...



No it's not, I had to thin it down using Cellulose Thinners. The paint was £25 for 5 ltrs and £15 for the Thinners.


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## TheTiddles (30 Mar 2010)

Oryxdesign":6ne1yigx said:


> Still looks "good value" when you compare it to the mafelle



I think Mafell are a funny bunch, but comparing their plunge saw with the Festool it appears to be better



says the guy who's just bought a MaxiMax

Aidan


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## chippy1970 (30 Mar 2010)

TheTiddles":3rzqu8fi said:


> Oryxdesign":3rzqu8fi said:
> 
> 
> > Still looks "good value" when you compare it to the mafelle
> ...



I wouldnt say its better it just has a few more gadgets on it. The TS55 is tried and tested theres not a lot that needs improving I would say. I saw the new Mafell saw back when it came out theres a few neat ideas on it but most are gimmicks. Like the way the whole side of the saw drops for blade changing I cannot see why you need this its just as quick to change a blade on the TS55 without the need for the side dropping off.


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