# New router - New table



## Niki

Good day

If you expect to see the normal "Furniture" router table...it's not

The table base is a piece of 30 mm thick "Counter-top", 800 x 500 mm covered with 8 mm "Floor panels".

I did not make the fence yet but that's a small problem (the fence will be positioned length-wise)

Regards
niki


Code:


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## mailee

Nice one Niki. You can certainly come up with some good ideas. I see your new router is the latest Hitachi, How do you find it? I have the older version the MV12 mounted in my table and think it is a great machine made for the job. :wink:


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## Niki

Thank you Mailee

Yes it's the M8V2 (100V -1150W) but I did not "find" it yet, as you could see, yesterday was the first cut (and the only one)

My old one is the M8 and it served me (and still in service) for the last 10 years, it's real work horse, I believe that the M12V is also work horse (or 3 working horses).

Small secret from Japan. 
The Japanese told me that when the want a good electric tool, they by Hitachi.
Why not Makita, I asked
Because Hitachi electric motor is made in Japan and Makita in chiwan, told me they.

Regards
niki


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## greggy

nice one niki, you never cease to amaze me with what you keep comming up with.one question please! what make are the drills you got, keep inspireing us, greggy.


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## patrick anderson

Nice work Niki, very clever.

Good to know that about hitachi....it's the only brand I buy


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## Niki

Thank you for your kind replies

Greggy
The drills are made by "National" (Matsushita denki) and are originally 4.8V they were $30 each so I bought 3...

The batteries died some 8 years ago so I connected them to a 12V - 5AH motorcycle battery (2nd pic). I added strap so I can carry it on my shoulder if needed.

In the garage I operate them with transformer that can supply 12V - 300W (or 25A), (3rd pic left upper) they have some 3 Meters cord that is enough to get to the centre of the garage.

I like them because they are very light (for my old hand) and has enough power for all the drilling and srewing that I need.

niki


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## greggy

thanks niki, now thats ingenuity, i thought i have not seen them before \/


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## devonwoody

Interesting thread again.

Your comments re the battery operated drills was interesting, I had previously read that running these tools needed heavy duty wiring and required other complicated electronic calculations.

Perhaps you would advise further.


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## Niki

Thank you

I'm lucky that I'm not some electric engineer or so otherwise, I would not try nothing. 
I know only the basics so I'll give you the facts...

First, you cannot draw a big amount (Amperage) from Lead-Acid accumulator as you can from NI-Cad battery, that's why they use the Ni-Cad or the more advanced.

But, even with the Lead-Acid, I get enough power (torque) to drill 10 mm holes or to screw 5 mm screws without drilling pilot hole.

I checked the max Amperage draw and it was 7~8 Amperes while holding the drill head so it cannot turn.

I'm using 2 mm or 1.5 mm wire cords.
According to the AWG, 1.5 mm wire can carry ~15 Amperes and 2 mm wire ~20Ampares.

I have a 12V drill and I made special connection (from the dead battery case) and it works perfect.





I made the same for a 9.6V jig saw





I'm using car quick-disconnects as in the pic below





Hope it helps
niki


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