# Limed oak kitchen worktop



## matthew (23 Sep 2012)

Am starting a new kitchen, and deciding whether to buy/make worktops etc. My wife has (somewhat typically) spotted some uber-trendy kitchen sporting a limed oak worktop, and I'm just wondering how I'd achieve it.

I know there are lots of pages on the subject and I've used liming wax with some success before on furniture. But I can't quite see it being a good finish for a worktop; I imagine the wax coming off, melting or burning under hot pans, etc; and/or not being particularly water resistant.

Has anyone done this, or got any ideas how it could work? Perhaps I actually need to, well, *lime* it and then oil it afterwards? Any insight much appreciated


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## fluffflinger (23 Sep 2012)

Can't comment on the liming but I bought rough lumber and made full stave worktops for our kitchen. 

44mm Character English Oak, knots and shakes filled with epoxy and made from boards around 125mm wide, so only five boards to get required depth and all at full length. Edge jointed, with biscuits for alignment one at a time, glued with Cascamite and surfaced with every device I had in the workshop, hand planes, scraper, belt and orbital sanders, finished with pure tung oil. 

Result stunning and cost about £400. Would I do it again, definitely. Just make sure you have the machinery to cope with large grumpy boards, if not take them to a joinery shop and pay to have them machined. Additionally if you don't own 1004 sash clamps, beg borrow or steal them you will need them in profusion if your tops are to be any length. 

I say go for it!


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## matthew (23 Sep 2012)

fluffflinger":bdj3iv7u said:


> Can't comment on the liming but I bought rough lumber and made full stave worktops for our kitchen.
> 
> I say go for it!



Richard - thanks for the encouraging reply! I'm reasonably well kitted out for planing and joining boards, so that bit I can do (although as you suggest, will need another 1000 or so sash clamps :|). But to hear of someone else doing it makes me a bit more confident ! It's mainly this lime finish I'm unsure about.

NB did you have any corner joints? I'm not sure wether to butt them or mitre them...


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## fluffflinger (23 Sep 2012)

No corners just three separate lengths, I would say butt joints definitely as you have to allow for movement across the grain. 

No idea how the pro's would tackle it but I would have thought biscuits or tongues for alignment (no glue) and maybe just regular worktop bolts making sure the joint was supported underneath. 

I'm sure the pro's will give you more guidance and they will be along soon I'm sure.


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## SeanJ (28 Sep 2012)

If i were trying to give a client a work top that had a kitchen resistant finish on it 'd go for AC lacquer with the liming effect got from experimenting with a modern grain filler, preferably thinnable to control the wipe off, tinting it up with titanium pigment if you wanted more intensity to the lime effect. 
If you can't get it sprayed i'd go for AC Lacquer brushed on with a bit of retarder, a couple/few applications deftly applied and flatted between coats can look great, esp in mat, you get a rock hard and highly resistant surface and it doesn't have to be that thick. 
Oiled tops are a different beast obviously. Doing yourself some samples will be the best bet if you can.
Sean


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## matthew (3 Oct 2012)

SeanJ":2ap2zcte said:


> If i were trying to give a client a work top that had a kitchen resistant finish on it 'd go for AC lacquer with the liming effect got from experimenting with a modern grain filler, preferably thinnable to control the wipe off, tinting it up with titanium pigment if you wanted more intensity to the lime effect.



Sounds quite technical :| Still, it's the best so far - I hadn't really thought of lacquer, it would keep the liming - but not sure how good it would be for a worktop... anyway, worth experimenting as you say - thanks for the advice!


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## SeanJ (10 Oct 2012)

..it is a bit technical sounding, but it's just basically the lacquer (AC) that is sprayed on a lot of kitchen fitted worktops commercially - but you'd be brushing it and leveling it off with fine paper. When I've done it i've used 2 thickish coats and got a great result with a matt finish.I've gone to 3 thick coats but the extra thickness exposes the brush application if your not careful. Stay thin and flow it on on if you can, the smell is pretty lively, a mask is advisable.


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## matthew (10 Oct 2012)

SeanJ":cvlfp4o3 said:


> ..it is a bit technical sounding, but it's just basically the lacquer (AC) that is sprayed on a lot of kitchen fitted worktops commercially - but you'd be brushing it and leveling it off with fine paper.



Given it looks like I'll be getting an Earlex to to my cabinet doors, I guess I could use that for this also, rather than brushing. I just associate worktops with oil rather than lacquer so I'm just trying to imagine it... is the AC lacquer food safe? Heat resistant? Etc. Everywhere I find mentioning it - eg Morrells - says it's not for worktop use :| Many thanks for the tips...


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