# Coffee table issues



## Peanutcoxy (15 Jan 2022)

Morning all, I’m currently making a coffee table with curved cross legs of English walnut and the top from yew with coloured resin for the cracks/knots etc. The first problem I’m having is the half lap joints for the legs, probably to be resolved with templates and a top bearing router bit, unless there is a better way?

The second is attaching the legs to the top, which will only be about 25mm thick. Previously I’ve used wood dowels but had more surface area and thickness to work with. Potentially now thinking a rebated metal plate. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience of similar issues?


----------



## Peanutcoxy (16 Jan 2022)

Anything? Anybody?


----------



## Daniel2 (16 Jan 2022)

Can you add a drawing or rough sketch ?
It's a bit difficult to visualise only from the description.


----------



## Peanutcoxy (16 Jan 2022)

something similar to this Daniel


----------



## sometimewoodworker (16 Jan 2022)

Peanutcoxy said:


> The second is attaching the legs to the top, which will only be about 25mm thick. Previously I’ve used wood dowels but had more surface area and thickness to work with. Potentially now thinking a rebated metal plate.


Why not use the traditional way? Which is either metal Z clips screwed into the top and slotted into the legs or wood buttons again screwed into the top and slotted into the legs, though your top is a little on the thin side if you don’t have an apron.

What I do is use wood blocks with glued dominoes screwed to the top and slotted into apron. The Domino has a wide verity of uses and this is one of them, that’s not to say that you can’t do the same job with other tools but the Domino makes it simple and quick.


----------



## TRITON (16 Jan 2022)

Saw, chisel, router*

*Save faffing about and throwing sawdust everywhere, a router plane rather than the electric variety.

Glue will provide a very strong joint, but if you are concerned about movement, and to be honest it can't really as its fixed at the top, then a pair of through dowels will give it a more than adequate mechanical strength.


----------



## Peanutcoxy (16 Jan 2022)

sometimewoodworker said:


> Why not use the traditional way? Which is either metal Z clips screwed into the top and slotted into the legs or wood buttons again screwed into the top and slotted into the legs, though your top is a little on the thin side if you don’t have an apron.
> 
> What I do is use wood blocks with glued dominoes screwed to the top and slotted into apron. The Domino has a wide verity of uses and this is one of them, that’s not to say that you can’t do the same job with other tools but the Domino makes it simple and quick.


I like the Z clips option. I’ve used it before but you’re right, I might struggle with the thickness of the top and no apron. I used the second option on my bench but similar to option 1, thin too. Still trying to convince the missus that I ‘need’ a Domino!!


----------



## paulrbarnard (16 Jan 2022)

Peanutcoxy said:


> I like the Z clips option. I’ve used it before but you’re right, I might struggle with the thickness of the top and no apron. I used the second option on my bench but similar to option 1, thin too. Still trying to convince the missus that I ‘need’ a Domino!!


You could simply glue a thickening block on where the Z clip screws in. It would be behind the leg and not visible.


----------



## Peanutcoxy (16 Jan 2022)

TRITON said:


> Saw, chisel, router*
> 
> *Save faffing about and throwing sawdust everywhere, a router plane rather than the electric variety.
> 
> Glue will provide a very strong joint, but if you are concerned about movement, and to be honest it can't really as its fixed at the top, then a pair of through dowels will give it a more than adequate mechanical strength.


I’ve drawn a full size template on some mdf as I was always taught and the slight curves make the sawing tricky. I’m going to have a go at making templates for the curves and do some tests. I’m pretty good with a router and it will be accurate if I can get the templates spot on.
I’ll be putting in a centre stretcher for stability using dowels exactly as you suggested. Many thanks for your help


----------



## Peanutcoxy (16 Jan 2022)

paulrbarnard said:


> You could simply glue a thickening block on where the Z clip screws in. It would be behind the leg and not visible.


Good point


----------



## sometimewoodworker (16 Jan 2022)

Peanutcoxy said:


> I like the Z clips option. I’ve used it before but you’re right, I might struggle with the thickness of the top and no apron. I used the second option on my bench but similar to option 1, thin too. Still trying to convince the missus that I ‘need’ a Domino!!


Depending on the edge style, and if you are convinced on the No apron option you could attach a second strip all round the edge, that is what I have done, though I still have slim aprons and have angle iron as well.


----------



## JBaz (17 Jan 2022)

For the top - I have started to use threaded inserts 




You could put these in the underside of the top (I glue mine in rather than relying on the outer ridges alone) and bolt into them from below. Obviously you would recess the bold head so it couldn't be seen, but it would make a good solid joint that could be undone if necessary.


----------



## Peanutcoxy (17 Jan 2022)

I think this is the way ahead. I’ll take a photo once done


----------



## sometimewoodworker (17 Jan 2022)

Peanutcoxy said:


> I think this is the way ahead. I’ll take a photo once done


Don’t forget to allow for wood movement with the fixing holes.


----------



## Sean33 (17 Jan 2022)

Peanutcoxy said:


> View attachment 127082
> 
> something similar to this Daniel


Personally prefer to use wooden buttons, but I am tempted for ease of use at trying threaded inserts and then plug the hole after with a dowel of the same timber.
Re the legs I would make a couple of templates to get the lap exactly where you want it then transfer onto your legs. I would also go at each edge with a chisel on the marking lines just in case of any blowout, then use the templates to hog it out with a router


----------

