# Type of plywood used for making wardrobes/cabinets?



## Alikingravi (17 May 2016)

Hi All,

I am planning on building a full size wardrobe for my bedroom (height: 2.4m, width: 3m, depth: 50-60cm).

I also want to build several shelving units to hang on the walls, I plan to build a lot of them to fill up my flat walls.

Is it possible to carry on with this build using spruce plywood? Or do I absolutely have to use Birch? Any other type of plywood I can use for this purpose? I am trying to cut down the building cost so I thought of using spruce plywood. I have been quoted £40 for 8 x 4 feet sheet of 18mm thick birch plywood. A spruce sheet is about £25. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Thanks!


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## transatlantic (17 May 2016)

I think this depends mostly on looks. You could definately build something structurally sound. It's more a case of, would you be happy with the way it looks? .. it's going to need more surface work, and the grain/patterns/knots will most likely look pretty ugly.

If you're going to paint it - I don't see a problem. Hopefully you could pick out descent enough sheets. I definately wouldn't try ordering it, you'll get junk.


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## Fitzroy (17 May 2016)

It may be blasphemy on here but I'd cost up materials for what you want to build then have a comparison for carcasses from say IKEA. I've build a few IKEA hacks over the years where carcasses have been close to the cost of raw materials but save you hours I the design and making.


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## skipdiver (17 May 2016)

If you can get 18mm birch ply for £40 a sheet, then i'd snap their hands off at that price. Don't know what grade that is for but if it is being painted then i would go with that. Spruce ply can be very rough, again depending on grade used.


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## Alikingravi (17 May 2016)

Hmmmm, interesting thoughts. I will most probably end up painting it. So you think £40 pounds a sheet is a good deal for birch ply? Im not sure about grades though, but it doesnt matter. I want something that will give me a robust structure. 

IKEA is a possible option but I think nothing beats building your own design furniture  .... I am interested in spending the hours and gaining experience from the builds. From what transatlantic said, spruce does seem like a viable option.......


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## Wuffles (17 May 2016)

Cheaper (by which I mean WBP that looks alright to the eye) can delaminate when painting, so stick with birch.


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## stuartpaul (17 May 2016)

£40 for 8 x 4 18mm birch ply seems incredibly cheap to me. As has been said above at that price I'd be biting arms off. You also might not need 18mm, - think about 15 and 12 for some aspects (drawers etc). 12mm is much stronger than I thought it would be.

You need to make sure it truly is birch you're getting!

Anything wrong with using MDF?


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## custard (17 May 2016)

Painted plywood furniture generally looks amateurish and cheap unless it's done exceptionally well; but that takes time, equipment, and experience. 

The problems are ripples (ply is rarely as flat as you'd hope), rough and splintered edges (a table saw with a scoring blade is a big help when working with ply), raised grain (requiring multiple coasts with thorough sanding), and grain telegraphing through the paint (yet more coats). 

MDF is a far better material for this type of application. If you're absolutely wedded to the idea of ply maybe make a smaller project in ply first (like say a bedside table) to gain a deeper appreciation for the problems you'll have to overcome. Just a thought, good luck!


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## Alikingravi (17 May 2016)

Yea I think so too. It may be £40 a sheet for spruce not birch, let me reconfirm that.

Interesting thought, I will definitely consider thinner sheets, although I am under the impression that thinner ply will have more bow/warp. Thats why I thought to go with thicker sheets. 

MDF ... hmmm ... since I dont have a workshop, I was hoping to avoid cutting loads of MDF in my flat. Definitely dont want to be breathing that stuff. Although, it can be considered as an option because MDF is comparatively very cheap. Will have to make arrangements to chop them boards if I go with MDF, although space really is an issue for me. Any thoughts/advice on cutting MDF in small spaces?


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## transatlantic (17 May 2016)

I'd personally stick with 18mm, unless you're going to be attaching it to the walls. There often isn't much of a difference in price, at least not to justify a weaker build.

I'd pop by your local furnature store, find something you like (something that isn't solid wood, yet is still rigid!), and take the measurements of what they used. Also look at some of the finer details, like how they worked around hiding the board edges (by using some kind of edge tape), the types of hinges used etc


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## Mark A (17 May 2016)

Unless you have top-quality machinery and dust extraction it doesn't matter what material you use, it would still produce lots and lots of dust. Don't underestimate how much of the stuff a router or standard circular saw makes!

Also don't underestimate the difficulties in manoeuvring large sheets and later, assembled carcasses in a restricted space.

Personally I would use moisture resistant MDF (MRMDF) and 
contact a company like Avon Ply to supply and process it to your exact dimensions on their super precise CNC saw, leaving you to do all the joiny stuff. It would save the dust, hassle and monotony of sawing sheet after sheet. 

Mark


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## Adam9453 (17 May 2016)

Mark A beat me to it, I was going to suggest you design your piece and then get someone to cut all the sheet materials for you.
They deliver all the sheets cut to your specified sizes (importantly nice and square) then as Mark A said, its up to you to do the joiny bit lol.
You need to think the whole project through from fundamental design to every joint detail when you are getting someone else to manufacture part of the process for you.
Whereas if you are cutting/machining everything yourself, you can make it up as you go along (providing you don't run out of talent).
How do you plan to join the pieces together?


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## transatlantic (17 May 2016)

Mark A":22dors7j said:


> contact a company like Avon Ply to supply and process it to your exact dimensions on their super precise CNC saw, leaving you to do all the joiny stuff. It would save the dust, hassle and monotony of sawing sheet after sheet.
> 
> Mark



Out of interest, how much does something like that cost roughly? is it priced per cut? I'd assume it's a fairly chunky load on top of the material price tag itself?


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## skipdiver (17 May 2016)

Or just use 18mm MFC boards. That's what i used for mine.


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## Alikingravi (17 May 2016)

Thanks everyone for the very useful tips. I can see the experience of everyone speaking up! 

I was initially planning on using plywood and go with pocket holes/glue for joining the pieces together. I am not sure how well pocket holes will work with MDF. I believe MDF material will make a weaker pocket hole joint than plywood. On the plus side, I do see a point in using MDF since I will be painting the wardrobe .... so it makes more sense. My concern is how strong is MDF in holding a clothes rack/bar and is it able to take the weight of winter clothes etc? I could use extra support pieces of timber inside the wardrobe to provide such support. Any thoughts/ideas on this? If I can join MDF together securely then it can be the way to go forward.


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## MattRoberts (17 May 2016)

MDF isn't great. It's weakest when it's stressed in small surface areas - this means around joints, screws, pocket holes etc. It's also a bit rubbish to paint unless you're using a gloss.


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## Wuffles (17 May 2016)

I paint birch ply, nothing wrong with it. Comes up a treat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MattRoberts (17 May 2016)

Wuffles":xuejzs4r said:


> I paint birch ply, nothing wrong with it. Comes up a treat.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You been on the beers Wuffles?  

I was talking about painting MDF


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## Alikingravi (17 May 2016)

Yes, I am a little concerned using MDF due to weaker joints, although I have seen MDF wardrobes on this forum. If I go with birch ply then I also have the option to stain it. Will look very nice.


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## Wuffles (17 May 2016)

I was responding to the OP who appeared to have been pointed towards MDF. Our posts crossed by 2 mins, Tapatalk clearly doesn't warn when you post and someone else has posted meanwhile.

We're on the same page. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MattRoberts (18 May 2016)

Wuffles":3gcmi6xl said:


> I was responding to the OP who appeared to have been pointed towards MDF. Our posts crossed by 2 mins, Tapatalk clearly doesn't warn when you post and someone else has posted meanwhile.
> 
> We're on the same page.
> 
> ...


Ah, my apologies. Great minds!


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## petermillard (18 May 2016)

I'm with Custard on this - MR MDF was made for this kind of application; with (painted) ply you'll just be making work for yourself, and you'll likely end up with a finish that isn't as good. IME MDF generally takes paint very well, wether sprayed, or applied with foam roller; if you can't get a good painted finish on MDF, you're probably doing it wrong :wink: 

IMHO the 'weakness' of MDF is also being massively overstated here, for the OPs application. If you're making well-designed fitted furniture, the only time a joint should be stressed is when you move the carcass into position, as it will, by definition, never move again. Like others here, I have made (and painted!) many, many hundreds of items of fitted furniture from MDF over the years using every possible jointing method, and have not had a single failure. Not one.

I don't think pocket-holes are a great jointing method generally, but I'd agree they are 'least good' in MDF - I only ever like to use them as a convenient way of 'clamping' a joint while the glue dries. If you don't feel confident enough to drill & screw through the carcass and fill the holes, then consider another way of doing things e.g. use an end panel to hide them, use some kind of KD fittings, buy a cheap biscuit jointer etc.. etc.. FWIW the fitted furniture industry came across these issues and has largely solved them, years ago...

Whatever you decide, good luck with the project, and don't forget to post pictures!

Cheers, Pete


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## Wizard9999 (18 May 2016)

I suggest you spend a little time searching past threads, treasure trove of useful info out there, like this

mdf-wardrobe-t77539.html?hilit=Wardrobe

Terry.


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## Alikingravi (18 May 2016)

Alright! That is some more useful information. If I use MDF then I will never use pocket holes! I would definitely go with drill & screw through the carcass, then fill up the holes. I suppose you could also use metal L-brackets to strengthen up the joints. 

I'll look into past threads for more information. Thanks!


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## NOTTNICK (18 May 2016)

I used 12mm birch ply (cheaper) but fitted it into a 44 x 22 frame with dado. 
It has strength and looks good as a timber finish.
Judicious use of glue and careful joints eliminated visible screws. 
Vertical partition - double skinned with structural battens inside for extra shelf support.
I am pleased with it.
Sliding doors get in the way of good photos.
Nick


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## Alikingravi (18 May 2016)

NOTTNICK":1ya527ud said:


> I used 12mm birch ply (cheaper) but fitted it into a 44 x 22 frame with dado.
> It has strength and looks good as a timber finish.
> Judicious use of glue and careful joints eliminated visible screws.
> Vertical partition - double skinned with structural battens inside for extra shelf support.
> ...



Hi Nick. Looks pretty neat. Thanks for sharing the photos. What did you use to create runners for the sliding mechanism, wood or an aluminium track? Do you have a picture of that? I know that plywood doors can be susceptible to warpage so I was thinking of re-enforcing the backside of the doors with timber strips, although that would make sliding the doors over each other a bit more difficult. #-o Im sure there will a workaround to that problem.


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## NOTTNICK (19 May 2016)

I didn't make the doors - got some really stylish glass ones - http://www.slidewardrobesdirect.co.uk/m ... -161-c.asp 
runners look fairly standard, but good quality, research might come up with a manufacturer. I'll post close-ups. Mechanism is very good.
The double skinned construction of my partition looks pretty sound, particularly re-inforced inside, I am certain it would work for a door too. If you can get a track.....


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## paulrockliffe (19 May 2016)

You can beef up MDF joints (if you really need to) using dados and also by using bolts instead of screws, MDF takes a thread very well and you'll never pull them apart then. Not really necessary though.


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## mahomo59 (19 May 2016)

Another way... Design it and have Avonplywood cut everything for you be it mrmdf or birch. They now have clear two sided lacquered birch BB grade approx £65 a sheet depending on quantities. No mess in your flat.


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## Wuffles (19 May 2016)

mahomo59":2yp46wwb said:


> Another way... Design it and have Avonplywood cut everything for you be it mrmdf or birch. They now have clear two sided lacquered birch BB grade approx £65 a sheet depending on quantities. No mess in your flat.



Someone else suggested that James, but the OP was unsure on cut costs. You've done lots of that, how much does it work out at with a cutting list? I know it's a piece of string, just roughly?


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## mahomo59 (19 May 2016)

Ah pipper I scan read as I was getting called for food!

They charge 50p a metre. My last set of wardrobes I had cut was £39. Triple door on one and double on the other, with 12mm birch drawers X 6 of. I had EVERYTHING cut. Carcass, stiles, rail, drawer sides, panels etc. 
£12.50 delivery then assemble. I love this service, so accurate and suits me very well. 
I'll post pictures on another thread of a kitchen I'm building. Cutting on that one £140, bases, sides, ledgers, drawer boxes etc etc. 
Hate it when I have to pick up an 8x4 sheet...way too much hard work.


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## NOTTNICK (19 May 2016)

My local B&Q will cut sheets mm perfect (although they say they can't guarantee it, it always has been) for no extra charge.
When I built my shelves I sorted out the cutting list for 2 sheets, it took a good 15 minutes.
Some of their timber is eye-wateringly expensive, but the ply is reasonable -if you check individual sheets for quality.


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## MattRoberts (20 May 2016)

NOTTNICK":2bmhfbzf said:


> My local B&Q will cut sheets mm perfect (although they say they can't guarantee it, it always has been) for no extra charge.
> When I built my shelves I sorted out the cutting list for 2 sheets, it took a good 15 minutes.
> Some of their timber is eye-wateringly expensive, but the ply is reasonable -if you check individual sheets for quality.


My local B&Q appears to be the dumping ground for every banana shaped, void filled piece of rubbish ply in the country 

Fortunately I've found a really friendly timber yard with good stock nearby


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## Alikingravi (20 May 2016)

I can totally understand the patience required to cut large sheets for large projects and ensuring everything is square and fits the required dimensions. I would imagine it can take several hours to make all the cuts, precious time which can be utilised on other tasks. As I am quite new to this, I want to try the cut-as-you-go approach. I have designed the wardrobe I need to make but I dont want to cut all the pieces in one go, in-case I need to change something or in-case my design is flawed. I am also thinking of making a dust extraction enclosure for my circular saw and plug my vacuum cleaner in to minimise the dust. Also thinking of buying a large fan and using it as an exhaust by pointing it out the window. I am determined to make it work! Lol. Plus I can use the money I save on cutting costs to buy an extra sheet of ply!


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## Alikingravi (20 May 2016)

MattRoberts":1csqycv2 said:


> My local B&Q appears to be the dumping ground for every banana shaped, void filled piece of rubbish ply in the country
> Fortunately I've found a really friendly timber yard with good stock nearby



I agree, even though B&Q's cutting service is super awesome, I think their sheet goods cannot compare in quality with more specialised suppliers. I've read a lot of delamination reviews from customers.


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## Wuffles (20 May 2016)

Don't underestimate the weight of 8x4 sheets of 18mm birch ply, you're not in a flat are you?


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## transatlantic (20 May 2016)

Another option to consider is tongue and groove timber, not the floor board stuff, but the thinner stuff. It would require you to build more frame work, but probably more manageable than working with sheet goods.

Not sure about costs, but I think you'd learn alot more from it, and the results would look much nicer (imo).

Along the lines of this :


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## Alikingravi (20 May 2016)

Wuffles":25r3kny3 said:


> Don't underestimate the weight of 8x4 sheets of 18mm birch ply, you're not in a flat are you?



Yes im in a flat. You're right, birch is very heavy....over 30 kgs. Im going to lay it down on the floor on top of a few 2x4's and then make the cuts.


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## Wuffles (20 May 2016)

Alikingravi":12pb4vlh said:


> Wuffles":12pb4vlh said:
> 
> 
> > Don't underestimate the weight of 8x4 sheets of 18mm birch ply, you're not in a flat are you?
> ...



Outside you mean? How do you plan to get the sheet(s) into the flat in the first place. Speaking as someone who has fitted bespoke kitchens in flats in Clifton before now. Don't even start me on the parking


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## Alikingravi (20 May 2016)

Wuffles":12k7jihd said:


> Alikingravi":12k7jihd said:
> 
> 
> > Wuffles":12k7jihd said:
> ...



Haha, I totally understand what you mean. I am on the first floor, only one flight of stairs. The main door of my building opens and the stairs are right in front. As you land on the first floor, my door is also right in front. So no turning around or manoeuvring required. Once you enter inside, keep going straight and the room is on the right, can easily slide the sheet inside at an angle and lay it on the floor. Obviously will need help from the delivery person to get them up there.


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## Alikingravi (20 May 2016)

transatlantic":24966voc said:


> Another option to consider is tongue and groove timber, not the floor board stuff, but the thinner stuff. It would require you to build more frame work, but probably more manageable than working with sheet goods.
> 
> Not sure about costs, but I think you'd learn alot more from it, and the results would look much nicer (imo).
> 
> Along the lines of this :



That is a good point. Frame construction is slightly more complicated but it is definitely more manageable. Can you get tongue and groove boards from b&q or homebase?


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## transatlantic (20 May 2016)

Alikingravi":2dsbz4md said:


> transatlantic":2dsbz4md said:
> 
> 
> > Another option to consider is tongue and groove timber, not the floor board stuff, but the thinner stuff. It would require you to build more frame work, but probably more manageable than working with sheet goods.
> ...



Yep - comes under 'cladding'


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## Alikingravi (20 May 2016)

transatlantic":1qjkt8x7 said:


> Yep - comes under 'cladding'



I have thought about this and it sounds like a great idea, but i will still need plywood to create drawers and some partitions inside the wardrobe, so no escaping that! But I think it definitely sounds better than making the whole thing out of plywood only. Maybe I can go with 12mm ply instead of 18mm for the drawers. I'll work on the costs and see what the benefit is. I think tongue and grove/frame construction will be cheaper, less chances of warpage and lighter in weight. Do you have a suggestion for the frame timber dimensions? Are 65mm(W) x 38mm(T) batons good enough or should I opt for 2 inches by 4 inches?


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## transatlantic (21 May 2016)

Alikingravi":e3bcwrv9 said:


> transatlantic":e3bcwrv9 said:
> 
> 
> > Yep - comes under 'cladding'
> ...



ply would be more stable.

As for the dimensions, difficult to say without seeing the plan. But 2x4 sounds like overkill. With a suitable number of good joints, 65x38 should be fine.


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## Alikingravi (21 May 2016)

I've sketched this design so far. I am planning on using 90mm(W) x 38mm(T) timber for frame construction. Looks ok to me. I will attach 18mm plywood sheets for the sides and the top. The wardrobe will be screwed into the wall studs for which I have placed some backer boards. I will make the sliding doors using the claddings laid on top of 6mm MDF. Does this look like a viable design? 

Front:





Aerial View:





Back:


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## transatlantic (21 May 2016)

Looks good to me 

I'd probaly add a few more supporting pieces though. It looks like you're using the ply for the framing in some places, which I'd personally avoid. You want the battons to form the structure, and the ply to add rigidity, as well as filling in the gaps.


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## Alikingravi (21 May 2016)

transatlantic":pahshcxb said:


> Looks good to me
> 
> I'd probaly add a few more supporting pieces though. It looks like you're using the ply for the framing in some places, which I'd personally avoid. You want the battons to form the structure, and the ply to add rigidity, as well as filling in the gaps.



Awesome sauce! Thanks. The interior of the bigger wardrobe on the right side is not fully designed yet. I will make sure to add plenty of support using the batons. From your update it looks like I need a support board on the front as well, which I was hoping to avoid ... but no worries :lol:


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## transatlantic (21 May 2016)

Alikingravi":3dbejpno said:


> From your update it looks like I need a support board on the front as well, which I was hoping to avoid ... but no worries :lol:



You don't have to have it, but if you're putting a lot of weight on it, they' will bow, especially across that distance, which looks to be around 2m?


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## Alikingravi (21 May 2016)

transatlantic":1ityj8fb said:


> Alikingravi":1ityj8fb said:
> 
> 
> > From your update it looks like I need a support board on the front as well, which I was hoping to avoid ... but no worries :lol:
> ...



Yes, you are right. Better to be safe than sorry. It is about 2m and will have to be divided from the middle to add more support. Plus I will need plenty of drawers, so I may put them in the middle all the way up to the top.


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## MattRoberts (21 May 2016)

By 90x38, do you mean CLS studwork?


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## Alikingravi (21 May 2016)

MattRoberts":1tijsy0u said:


> By 90x38, do you mean CLS studwork?



Yes. I'm thinking of getting these:

http://www.diy.com/departments/cls-planed-unfinished-c16-t38mm-w89mm-l2400mm-pack-of-6/492782_BQ.prd


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## MattRoberts (21 May 2016)

Just bear in mind a few things :

- They have a roundover on them (which you may like) 
- If you rip cut them they tend to bend as they are Kiln dried 
- they're often knotty or can have resin voids in them 

Not trying to put you off using them, just a few things to consider 

I'd hand pick them rather than getting a multi pack though


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## Alikingravi (22 May 2016)

MattRoberts":6z09uztz said:


> Just bear in mind a few things :
> 
> - They have a roundover on them (which you may like)
> - If you rip cut them they tend to bend as they are Kiln dried
> ...



Cool. Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Does the cladding warp and bend too? It is only 7.5mm thick so I am assuming it would warp. I am thinking of laying them on top of 6mm MDF to make the doors so I should be fine. I will make 3 sliding doors to cover the whole width of the wardrobe. Will have to make sure I dont end up blocking any internal drawers though. I havent layed out the drawers yet so will need to keep that in mind too.


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## petermillard (22 May 2016)

MattRoberts":dyym8tsg said:


> Not trying to put you off using them, just a few things to consider


Agree with MattRoberts - here's a few more things to consider. You're massively over-engineering this IMHO, and consequently making work for yourself. 4x2 CLS is for making studwork i.e. walls. You're building a wardrobe, not a bomb shelter, so consider something smaller - 2x2 would be perfectly adequate, if you really want to go the 'framework and clad' route. 

Secondly, cladding the framework in 18mm ply is also overkill - 6, 9 or 12mm, tops - as you'll also likely want to clad the inside of the framework; CLS isn't meant to be seen, so isn't generally the prettiest of timber. So now you're lining the framework or on both sides = twice as much work, and sheet goods. No thanks! 

I agree that a span of 2000mm needs some kind of support, and this is generally provided by a batten of some kind - can easily be set back within the carcass, so you still get full-height doors - or my personal current favourite, a length of steel bar set into a groove in the carcass. A batten would be easier for someone on their first major project, though. Oh, and it's batten, not 'baton' btw 

Lastly, fixing T&G cladding onto 6mm MDF isn't likely to do anything WRT keeping it flat - you'll need something a bit more substantial.

Again, all this is IHMO and not intended to put you off at all, just wanting to make you aware of what you're getting into. 

Good luck with whatever you decide.

Pete


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## Alikingravi (22 May 2016)

petermillard":24waomsl said:


> MattRoberts":24waomsl said:
> 
> 
> > Not trying to put you off using them, just a few things to consider
> ...



Haha. I wish I could make a bomb shelter from 2x4s lol ... I would totally do it. Dont worry about putting me off, I want the cold hard facts, so I appreciate the constructive criticism. Last thing I want is a failed design and wasted investment. 

I agree about using ply less than 18mm. The reason for going with thicker "battens" (I stand corrected) is to support the larger width of the wardrobe, although I do see an overkill factor in using 90mm(W)x38mm(T) for framing since I will screw the back into the wall studs. I will head over to b&q again and test the strength of different sized battens to see what will be strong enough.

I will have a think about the claddings. I dont mind the frame to be visible from the inside, but it will be an aesthetic plus to hide them. I have not clue about the doors so far, but I will have a think about that as well. I was thinking of using MDF because it is nice and straight. Maybe ill go with something thicker than 6mm. Will test the strength at b&q next time I'm there.


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## Marineboy (23 May 2016)

Are you intending to paint the wardrobe? If so, you might want to consider making faux cladding by routing vertical V grooves into the MDF. Then you would have no worries re timber movement. I've used this method and to my eyes it is very effective.


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## Benchwayze (23 May 2016)

I count myself lucky. My local supplier offers free cutting services on any materials you buy. Pay for it, take the receipt into the cutting shop, the machinist collects your materials, and cuts it there and then. They also cart your purchases to your car ; (That's what an NHS walking stick gets you!) That little extra costs me the price of a pint, but that's my decision. The Birch ply they supply is high quality, but I am in the position of not having to bother about the price. Not that I am rich, but I know I can't take the green stuff with me come the day! :mrgreen:


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## Alikingravi (23 May 2016)

Marineboy":154atw3u said:


> Are you intending to paint the wardrobe? If so, you might want to consider making faux cladding by routing vertical V grooves into the MDF. Then you would have no worries re timber movement. I've used this method and to my eyes it is very effective.



I'm not sure I follow your suggestion. If I use T&G cladding method, then I will not paint it. I will prefer to stain it.


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## Benchwayze (23 May 2016)

Tongue and groove looks great when painted with pastel coloured emulsion. It needs to be done properly though. So Marineboy's idea is good too, but the finish needs to be spot on. I believe Custard did a tongue and groove job like that on a utility room. (Proper match-board though, I'd guess.) There's a post somewhere on the forum. Have a look.


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## MatthewRedStars (23 May 2016)

You can buy pre-grooved MDF sheets (V groove, cockbead etc) - I wouldn't do it by hand unless there was only a tiny bit to do.


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## Alikingravi (23 May 2016)

MatthewRedStars":2syvoaq0 said:


> You can buy pre-grooved MDF sheets (V groove, cockbead etc) - I wouldn't do it by hand unless there was only a tiny bit to do.



Ah, now I see what Marineboy meant by faux cladding. It is indeed an interesting idea if I go the paint route. Creating V-grooves should be easy with a router and a straight edge. Plus you can space the grooves as you like.


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## Alikingravi (23 May 2016)

Benchwayze":37xryloz said:


> Tongue and groove looks great when painted with pastel coloured emulsion. It needs to be done properly though. So Marineboy's idea is good too, but the finish needs to be spot on. I believe Custard did a tongue and groove job like that on a utility room. (Proper match-board though, I'd guess.) There's a post somewhere on the forum. Have a look.



I will try to find the post. Would be really interesting to see the results.


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## transatlantic (23 May 2016)

Dude - get making already! ... 

jeeeeeze


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## Alikingravi (23 May 2016)

transatlantic":32rnrn93 said:


> Dude - get making already! ...
> 
> jeeeeeze



Haha. My fingers are itching to start building this very minute but there have been some delays unfortunately. Although I will make sure to document the build along the way. But the fact that what my initial question was, and where this thread stands now is just amazing :mrgreen: Has helped a million fold. Thanks everybody!


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## MattRoberts (23 May 2016)

Here's the faux t&g effect on some pine boards for reference


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## Alikingravi (23 May 2016)

Ah, nice. Certainly looks like cladding joined together. Awesome.


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