# Fine adjuster for tablesaws



## Anonymous (6 Nov 2005)

Hi all

Also see https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7191&highlight=

been playing again  

I decided to make a fine adjuster for the fence on my tablesaw instead of keep tapping it with the palm of my hand to get that last 0.5mm. 
I made a prototype ouf of MDF and Oak and it worked very nicely. I then had an aluminium version made but the MDF/Oak one worked equally as well even if it did not look quite as nice.

With a 30mm diameter adjuster knob on a 6mm thread, I can easily adjust the fence to within 1/8mm of where I want it which is absolutely great  

The pictures tell the story - I will try to post the CAD drawings sometime soon as I did for my router table insert







Easy to use. Just clamp the new block to the fence with the front knob which is 30mm diameter with M8 threaded hole and locknut to hold it in place on an M8 threaded rod through the U shaped clamp. I drilled the other (inner) end of the M8 rod and tapped it M4 to allow a small clamping washer to be screwed onto it (clear in following photots).
Once the block is locked, I nip the fence lock up until it just touches the fence - this keeps the fence perpendicular to the front bar as I turn the adjuster screw. I then turn the 30mm adjuster knob and get a smooth 1mm per revolution. Nice  

Lock the fence and cut








Views from below so that you can see the two nyloc nuts and washers that attach it to the actual fence. The new block has an M6 threaded hole across it and the adjuster knob screws into and out of the block to move the fence


----------



## mailee (6 Nov 2005)

Brilliant Tony! I have been thinking about making a fine adjuster for the talbe saw myself. I do like your idea hope you don't mind if I copy it? by the way is that bandsaw of yours the Draper one as it looks identical to mine, I might even put one on that too. Thanks.


----------



## Anonymous (6 Nov 2005)

mailee":2s2ybdkc said:


> Brilliant Tony! I have been thinking about making a fine adjuster for the talbe saw myself. I do like your idea hope you don't mind if I copy it? by the way is that bandsaw of yours the Draper one as it looks identical to mine, I might even put one on that too. Thanks.



Thanks Mailee.

It's on here to copy mate :wink: Feel free to improve on it too

The bandsaw is Charnwood, but they are all from China and it comes with lots of different names painted on the side depending on where you bought it :wink:


----------



## Chris Knight (6 Nov 2005)

Tony,
Nice neat job, also on the bandsaw. Well done mate!


----------



## Waka (7 Nov 2005)

Tony

Excellent job, thanks for posting.


----------



## devonwoody (7 Nov 2005)

Excellent  

I have had thoughts on something like this for the past couple of months so your posting certainly hs given me some confidence.


----------



## dedee (7 Nov 2005)

Tony, very neat and as a 419 owner myself it will be added to the tuit list.

Do you use the fence clamp at the other end of the fence? 

Andy


----------



## LyNx (7 Nov 2005)

Very nice idea Tony. May have to adopt that into my new fence.

Where did you get the 30mm adjuster knobs from??

Thanks for sharing

Andy


----------



## Anonymous (7 Nov 2005)

dedee":lq9i8gk0 said:


> Tony, very neat and as a 419 owner myself it will be added to the tuit list.
> 
> Do you use the fence clamp at the other end of the fence?
> 
> Andy



Hi Andy

Nice choice of saw :wink: 

No, I never have used the fence clamp at the rear. I have the fence pulled back towards the operator and the far end of it finishes just past the blade. I did this on the advice of Adam as it reduces the chances of kick-back.


----------



## Anonymous (7 Nov 2005)

LyNx":3ds9yimj said:


> Very nice idea Tony. May have to adopt that into my new fence.
> 
> Where did you get the 30mm adjuster knobs from??
> 
> ...



Made on a lathe

The prototype knobs were 30mm dowl with a hole drilled through the centre and tapped 6mm on my pillar drill. These worked fine


----------



## dedee (7 Nov 2005)

Tony":3t263u99 said:


> No, I never have used the fence clamp at the rear. I have the fence pulled back towards the operator and the far end of it finishes just past the blade. I did this on the advice of Adam as it reduces the chances of kick-back.



I can see why you would do this. But is there not a chance of the fence being pushed away from the blade if it is not supported at the far end? and doesn't that long length of fence protruding from the table not get in the way?
I prefer the subfence arrangement where the rear clamp is used and a half length fence is attached to the main fence.

Andy


----------



## Adam (7 Nov 2005)

dedee":1grzwda2 said:


> Tony":1grzwda2 said:
> 
> 
> > No, I never have used the fence clamp at the rear. I have the fence pulled back towards the operator and the far end of it finishes just past the blade. I did this on the advice of Adam as it reduces the chances of kick-back.
> ...



Yes, you can keep your fence at full length, and use a smaller "sub fence" which is shorter and clamped to the main fence - if your fence uses a clamping mechanism at the opposite end.

On the Scheppach, you can slide the fence forwards and back. It only really applies when cutting "unknown" planks, which may have some spring in them, its not a problem on sheet material etc.

I actually like the fence sticking out - I find its a useful reference to getting the board aligned.

Adam


----------

