# 2 morse taper with m33 thread



## murphy (7 Nov 2017)

I am looking for some way to fix a faceplate to the tailstock for a jig I am going to make to glue segmented rings and keep them centered, I am looking for a 2 morse taper with m33 thread to fix the faceplate to, is there such a thing available


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## Alpha-Dave (7 Nov 2017)

I purchased a reversing adapter made by Holdfast from Turners Retreat, but I can't see it on their web site now.


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## Alpha-Dave (7 Nov 2017)

Found it. £22.96

https://www.turners-retreat.co.uk/machi ... -m33-x-3-5


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## murphy (7 Nov 2017)

Thank you Dave, that is exactly what I am looking for


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## Honest John (8 Nov 2017)

If you think M 33 was difficult to find, you should try finding one with a 1 1/4 inch X8 to fit my Nova 1624. About 12 months ago I had one sent from the US. Teknatool Nova actually sell them in the states, but not in the uk ! I was very close to having one made for me, but it turned out to dear but not exceptionally to have one sent over from the states. Glad I did, I use it all the time in my segmented builds. What would interest me now would be the same sort of thing but with a back plate that could be bolted to a rotary table so that some level of ornamental turning could be undertaken. Once again these can be found for many threads but not for my Nova 1 1/4 x 8. Chronos do them for a 1 1/2 inch x 8 lathe, and perhaps I could find someone who could turn it down ? I notice that RDG tools are at Harrogate this year, so I might see what they can do.


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## woodfarmer (8 Nov 2017)

Why not use a drill chuck in the tailstock and use a bit of hefty plywood with a bolt through the middle ?


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## murphy (9 Nov 2017)

Thank you all for your help, Honest John I did have a Nova 1624 and had the same problem, I had to use a drill chuck as Woodfarmer suggested, my idea was to make a longworth chuck and fix it to a faceplate on the tailstock for centering rings for segmented turning, but I am now thinking of having it free standing, like the segment stomper which can be seen on you tube, and have the lathe free all the time, I did order the morse taper 2 x m33 thread from Turners Retreat as I will use it for other things


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## Phil Pascoe (9 Nov 2017)

I don't suppose anyone's come across one for 1 1/2" x 6?


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## Honest John (9 Nov 2017)

I used all sorts of lash ups to achieve the required cantering, including a drill chuck in the tail stock. I also turned a 2 MT taper on a wooden faceplate, that worked quite well. The proper part does provide a more accurate and strong arrangement to be used. What I did on my last build was to produce the open segmented form on 2 chucks, effectively in two halves. For final assembly, a chuck can be mounted in the head and tailstock and the two parts brought together. The outside profile can then be turned or refined without actually gluing the parts together, still allowing access to the inside surfaces. The mt chuckmount is such a useful bit for kit I’m amazed 5hat they ar3 not more freely available here as they seem to be in the states. Phip, if I come across your size il let you know.


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## Rorschach (9 Nov 2017)

MT2 arbours are not difficult to turn up yourself if you have a metal lathe or friend with a metal lathe. Luckily for me a myford thread arbour was very cheap and easy to find and when I have needed other threads I have just made my own.


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## CHJ (9 Nov 2017)

For low load alignment purposes I'm going to be trialling some printed collars, currently being printed as I type but it will be about a month before I'll know if they are usable.

1-1/2" X 6





1-1/4" X 8


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## CHJ (10 Nov 2017)

First printed part today.

1-1/2" X 6 TPI


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## CHJ (11 Nov 2017)

1-1/4" x 8 joins the collection for trial.


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## Inspector (11 Nov 2017)

murphy":1cl0v8ku said:


> ,,,,,, Honest John I did have a Nova 1624 and had the same problem,,,,,,



If you backtrack on the link Alpha-Dave posted by one level you'll see at the bottom of the page they sell 3 adapters. M33 x 3.5, 1" x 8tpi and a 1.25" x 8tpi.

Some rotary tables have a morse taper in the centre hole that could take the above but you'll need to be able to put a drawbar or bolt in to keep it from coming loose when doing the decorating. So that would mean cutting off the tang and drilling and tapping it. 

There are lots of backing plates with a 1 1/2" thread on it for Myford lathes chucks to clamp to rotary tables. You could have that thread turned off and a 1 1/4" one cut to fit your chucks.

Pete

As pointed out below Myford is incorrect. It should read Boxford.


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## Rorschach (11 Nov 2017)

Myford thread is 1-1/8 so that wouldn't be possible.


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## Inspector (11 Nov 2017)

Oops. I looked at a number of things and got mixed up. Boxford thread is 1 1/2 x 8. 

Pete


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## Rorschach (11 Nov 2017)

Easily done, didn't want to appear arrogant with my correction there but also didn't want someone to buy a Myford thread and find it was wrong.


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## Honest John (12 Nov 2017)

Inspector, thank you for your post. It’s heartening to see Turners Retreat stocking 1 1/4 X 8 chuck mounts. I would certainly have bought one of these had they been available at the time. I’m sure they weren’t. ! The one I imported from the states was made by/for Nova and had a short stubby MT2 taper. This is ideal to fit into a revolving centre, or indeed a rotary table. Not sure how the full sized taper would go on? I’m still on the lookout for a chuckmount with a backplate on it so that it can be bolted to the rotary table. The ones I’ve seen of these also have a short stubby mt2 taper on them. I’ve seen one offered with a Boxford thread of 1 1/2 X 8 and that should I think be capable of being turned down to 1 1/4 X 8 , but not by me as I haven’t the kit or knowledge to do it!


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## CHJ (12 Nov 2017)

Problem is most small home workshop lathes can't go down to 6 TPI (power and gearbox/leadscrew loads) so not so many folks can help.

*John*, what exactly are you doing with Rotary Table mounted Chuck, is it for milling/machining loads or just centralizing for low load indexing/marking work?


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## Rorschach (12 Nov 2017)

Most small lathes only go down to 8tpi I think. I am pretty sure my Super7 is 8tpi minimum.


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## CHJ (12 Nov 2017)

Rorschach":3bj6iu39 said:


> Most small lathes only go down to 8tpi I think. I am pretty sure my Super7 is 8tpi minimum.



Yes that's the problem with my 9 X 20, I can force the ratios down by adding an additional 80 tooth gear but I'm pretty sure it would then be down to cutting thread by hand powering the carriage lead screw rather than the spindle.
Gearing


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## Rorschach (12 Nov 2017)

CHJ":16imxo2w said:


> Rorschach":16imxo2w said:
> 
> 
> > Most small lathes only go down to 8tpi I think. I am pretty sure my Super7 is 8tpi minimum.
> ...



For short threads I actually prefer to hand power anyway, not only is it controllable but I find it just as fast, especially for metric threads since reversing is so easy. For short threads it makes much more sense in my mind and really takes the worry out of it.


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## Honest John (12 Nov 2017)

CHJ":3tlcjv0p said:


> *John*, what exactly are you doing with Rotary Table mounted Chuck, is it for milling/machining loads or just centralizing for low load indexing/marking work?




A few months ago there was a series of articles in Woodturning magazine on the subject of simple ornamental turning on a standard woodlathe. The process was to turn a bowl or platter... whatever, and remove it from the lathe but leaving it still mounted in the chuck. A compound table was then fitted to the ways, and a rotary table fitted to this. The chuck with the workpiece was then mounted to the rotary table and cutters were fitted to the lathe spindle. Very controllable and repeatable cuts can then be made to the workpiece by using the x and y adjustments and the indexing on the rotary table. I just thought that this was a process that offered me hours of fun and excitement in exploring its potential. Involving a small router in the plan also offers all sorts of opportunities. I’m sure il probably loose interest in the process once I’ve had a go, this usually the case! The first hurdle to overcome is mounting a chuck securely to a rotary table!


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## Honest John (12 Nov 2017)

Sorry not mastered the quote business!


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## CHJ (12 Nov 2017)

I take it you need a flange to clamp on your table, have you any idea what diameter and any finite details of fixing holes/centres to match your key slots required?
Something like this.


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## Honest John (12 Nov 2017)

Chas, since I don’t as yet own a rotary table (or the other parts) as yet, I couldn’t say where the hole centres would need to be. Just looking at the 4inch tables on Chronos they all seem to have 4 slots so I assume as long as 2 holes are on a diameter of the table a chuck mount plate should be able to be bolted through and centred on the mt2 taper.


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## woodfarmer (13 Nov 2017)

CHJ":2fbsr4w8 said:


> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> First printed part today.
> ...



What will we do for a hobby when they learn how to print in wood ?


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## CHJ (13 Nov 2017)

Might have to wait until I can justify a reel of filament.






http://www.zdnet.com/article/3d-printin ... -filament/


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## CHJ (17 Nov 2017)

We've been playing.

Thread bosses in PLA.
Cole jaw replacement collars in flexible PL A.


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