# Table Saw Window Cill Jig How Did He Make This?



## pollys13 (4 May 2017)

I understand I can make a window cill, using bandsaw, thicknesser or table saw. I intend to try all 3 and see how I get on and what seems to suit me best.
As I have a left tilting blade, to get the angle cut for the cill I think I would have to remove remove the crown guard ( I have 100mm depth of cut ), the exposed blade would be pointing toward me and obviously a very dangerous procedure.
Someone said I could use a canted fence to safely do the cut, but lost me on that.

While eating my tea I was watching the Warwickshire College machine woodworking videos. After they finished I got linked to Stoke On Trent College and their machine woodworking videos. 1:54 into this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLeG145 ... 110.142272 he is using an angled jig with a vertical saw blade, to get the angled cut for the cill same idea as using an angled jig on the thicknesser, with the bulk cut off on the bandsaw if using the thicknesser approach, then if cutting the bulk might as well cut the whole cill on the bandsaw.

Anyway, back to the video, the quality isn't very good and I can't see the jig he made clearly. Has anyone an idea how he made the jig so I can replicate it and try this approach myself? I assume he will position the jig the same position as a short fence to prevent any binding and kickback after the cut is done?
Cheers.


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## ColeyS1 (4 May 2017)

Machine of choice for a window cill would be a spindle moulder- which you have. Yours also tilts aswell, so it should be easy peasy with a rebate block tilted at 9 degrees. 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


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## pollys13 (4 May 2017)

ColeyS1":28cddfa4 said:


> Machine of choice for a window cill would be a spindle moulder- which you have. Yours also tilts as well, so it should be easy peasy with a rebate block tilted at 9 degrees.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


Hi Coley..... yes I'm still here.... still at it I did send you an email about my progress. I bought a 125 x 60 x 30 rebate block with spurs for cutting the rebate sections. I havn't got a 100mm rebate block so could cut cill as you did in your tutorial looked at Whitehill think are a good £200 and the knives I think were 28 a pop!! I've seen a couple of dedicated 9 degree cill blocks on Ebay go for about 160. As I mentioned, I wanted to try all 3 approaches ( also cheaper ) to making the cill and clean up with a smother if need too. Though If I found I couldn't get acceptable results I would buy a 100mm whitehill rebate block if I wasn't lucky enough to find one on Ebay or possible Gumtree.

I'm intending to have several cracks at following your tutorial, I think you said to get some 4 x 4 to make up the cutting list sections.
So came to mind the other day will get some softwood from Wicks true up and square through planer, got 3 bottles of Titebond 3 and glue up softwood to make timber suitable sizes to play with.

I think I mentioned in the email, I squared up the planer fence to table. Also squared up the spindle fences to table bit of a fath and time consuming, though eventually got them exact glued them into position with threadlock, also been setting up the other machines. I mentioned on the forum I took the sliding table of the table saw 3 times by myself..... a bit heavy, for the life of me I couldn't get it set accurately. Axminster sent over an engineer to precisely set it up for me Also going over the correct machine procedures so I don't make any stupid, dangerous mistakes.
Peter


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## RobinBHM (4 May 2017)

The easiest way to make a cill is to construct your window with a separate plant on cill.

The cill is then just a rebate, chamfer, drip groove and any rounding off you may want to add.

We make cills using a saddle on the thicknesser and a rebate block on the spindle. It means the same set up can be used for different cill projections.

A saddle for thicknesser can be made in an hour or so. And then 3 or so passes through and youve got the slope.

Generally cills are 9 degrees but can be 7.

If you make the cill 40mm thick, then the top of the cill groove is 40mm. On the inside the groove is 25mm up for the windowboard.

The most common cill projection is 70 or 75mm since it suits windows fitted into face brickwork and set back by 25mm or so.


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## pollys13 (5 May 2017)

" The easiest way to make a cill is to construct your window with a separate plant on cill ."
Yes someone mentioned this previously, cheers for the other bits of info.


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## RobinBHM (5 May 2017)

I think it was me


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## pollys13 (6 May 2017)

RobinBHM":1u1f9jph said:


> I think it was me


There you go then 
Cheers.


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