# osmo top oil



## mailee (18 Apr 2013)

Has anyone used osmo top oil? i need an oil for the AWO table I am building and have heard that the Osmo top oil is good for this sort of job. it is quite expensive is it worth the extra and how many coats does it need? is it applied by brush or cloth? TIA.


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## Phil Pascoe (18 Apr 2013)

You should be able to do a search on this one - it came up a while ago (me). I wouldn't have thought it would alter the colour much (I've only used it on darker woods), and you apply two coats ONLY, without thinning. I've used it on wenge kitchen tops, and it's resisted everything I've thrown at it so far.


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## 101wheeler (19 Apr 2013)

I use OSMO oil quite a bit (not sure if its Top oil though?). THe finish I use is Matte. Wipe on then leave for 8hrs or so then another coat. Does a lovely job on internal doors and stair components in oak and smells nice too. Much better than Danish oil in my opinion.


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## mailee (19 Apr 2013)

Thanks for the info. looks like I will be using that on the table build then.


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## ScouseKev (21 Apr 2013)

I've recently bought 2 tester pots to try on a new oak stringer and cupboard.
I wanted to keep it as natural as possible but give it good protection.

The place i bought it from offered spot on advise.

First Osmo polyx raw, which i was advised would only slightly darken the wood.

Second, "Fiddes Oak lightening" which i much prefer, hardly alters the wood at all. looks fantastic after 2 coats with a lint free cloth.

You can get tester pots for £3.99

Hope this helps.


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## AnselmFraser (24 Apr 2013)

Osmo oil is very good but what we use is boiled linseed oil mixed with 40% pure turpentine : spill plenty of oil on then half hour later wipe off , do this three times , job done and do not use wax. What are the benefits : it is time tested for 100`s of years and it is not so expensive but the most important benefit is that you can communicate with your customer ,you give them a pot of your "special oil" to esily apply if they wish to brighten the finish and over the years it gives the BEST finish and when their pot of oil runs out they come back to us for a refil and then we quite often get another commission to make another piece of furniture for them .


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## marcros (24 Apr 2013)

AnselmFraser":1adqcnn4 said:


> Osmo oil is very good but what we use is boiled linseed oil mixed with 40% pure turpentine : spill plenty of oil on then half hour later wipe off , do this three times , job done and do not use wax. What are the benefits : it is time tested for 100`s of years and it is not so expensive but the most important benefit is that you can communicate with your customer ,you give them a pot of your "special oil" to esily apply if they wish to brighten the finish and over the years it gives the BEST finish and when their pot of oil runs out they come back to us for a refil and then we quite often get another commission to make another piece of furniture for them .



is the reason for not waxing so that it allows the customer to re-oil from time to time?


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## mailee (25 Apr 2013)

Well I have used the Osmo top oil and have to say I am not that impressed with it! I followed the instructions on the tin and after the first coat it dried with a rough surface. This could have been the dust in the shop that caused it. It didn't alter the colour of the wood at all which I was expecting and really wanted. and it is completely matte. I de nibbed it with some 320 grit and it is very smooth but just looks like there is nothing on it! I was hoping for a slight darkening of the wood and a light sheen like you normally get with oil finishes. I have applied a second coat and will wait to see what it looks like tomorrow. if not does anyone know if I can use a Danish or linseed oil over it?


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## toolsandtimber (2 Jun 2014)

If you need any assistance with Osmo Oil please get in touch at http://www.toolsandtimber.co.uk. We can offer advice on usage and we even run Osmo workshops f you can make it up to the Lakes?


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## RogerS (2 Jun 2014)

mailee":3sdr36r5 said:


> Well I have used the Osmo top oil and have to say I am not that impressed with it! I followed the instructions on the tin and after the first coat it dried with a rough surface. This could have been the dust in the shop that caused it. It didn't alter the colour of the wood at all which I was expecting and really wanted. and it is completely matte. I de nibbed it with some 320 grit and it is very smooth but just looks like there is nothing on it! I was hoping for a slight darkening of the wood and a light sheen like you normally get with oil finishes. I have applied a second coat and will wait to see what it looks like tomorrow. if not does anyone know if I can use a Danish or linseed oil over it?



Did you read the instructions?

Apply Osmo TopOil thinly and evenly with a lint-free Cloth or good quality brush such as Mako 5* Pro Woodcare Brush. *Two coats will be required* if applied by brush, 3-4 coats if applying by cloth. Leave to dry overnight for 8-10 hours between coats.

As it happens, I've just tried a couple of tester tins of original Polyx Oil for a worktop and have been remarkably surprised by the lack of colouring on some maple. It has hardly transformed the basic colour which is great. Intriguingly I tried both matt and semi-matt but you can't tell the difference. At the same time, I was trying them out on an old but new worktop of indeterminate wood (possibly beech) and here it noticeably made the wood look yellower and you could also easily see the difference between the two finishes. 

The motto is, I guess, try any finish first on a test piece.


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