# Secretaire campaign chest - now finished



## gasman (14 Jan 2014)

Always happy to do a WIP if people would like. I am just in the process of doing the sketchup drawing of this piece which is for someone with an interest in military history to keep their model soldiers, tanks etc in.
The design is based on a Victorian secretaire chest - with drawers and including a fold down false drawer fronts concealing smaller drawers inside. The client wanted it to look 'not too fussy' so we agreed on english walnut wood with paler wood - probably sycamore inside and ebony stringing details. There will be at least 2 secret compartments.
Here's the first rough sketchup diagram





I will go and find some wood this weekend
Regards
Mark


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## Grahamshed (14 Jan 2014)

Always happy to read a WIP


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## Sailormantom (14 Jan 2014)

Yes please for a WIP. Like the design very much.

Cheers

Tom


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## DMF (14 Jan 2014)

gasman":2ndhfhvg said:


> Always happy to do a WIP if people would like.



Yes please! Will be another of yours to add to my favorites i'm sure so looking forward to it  

Dean


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## MickCheese (14 Jan 2014)

Mark

I really like your work so a WIP would be fantastic.

I do appreciate all the effort that goes into these WIP's.

Mick


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## Peter Sefton (14 Jan 2014)

Looks like a great job for a WIP, will it be a classic solid timber construction? 
Cheers Peter


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## carlb40 (14 Jan 2014)

Oh yes i would be interested in a WIP . Especially with the graduated drawers


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## Baldhead (14 Jan 2014)

Please, when the weathers bad and my back is like the weather, looking a WIP pics fills my day.

Baldhead


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## pip1954 (14 Jan 2014)

hi +1 for a wip please
pip


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## Tierney (15 Jan 2014)

+1 for a WIP. I love campaign furniture, and I just read that Chris Schwarz is planning a book on the subject.

DT


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## gasman (23 Jan 2014)

Thanks to all of you who have encouraged a WIP\
Sorry about the delay - I am actually at home recovering from minor back surgery
As well as enjoying the step-by-step updates, I also get huge help in problem-solving in this way
So first (before the op.) I went to Eynsham sawmills and selected the straightest walnut boards which had the most heartwood



. I bought some 1.8mm square ebony stringing from Capital Veneers and have ordered some new carbide inlay router cutters from richontools.com (8 cutters for $15 including postage - interesting to see how they are)
I am having a bit of trouble with the design
The client wants 2 of the middle drawers to be a drop-down hinged false front revealing smaller drawers behind like this




As far as I can see, all the ones I have looked at have this whole section as a kind of big drawer which slides forward a couple of inches and then the false front hinges forward. The client would prefer it just to hinge forward with no sliding to maximise the volume of the drawers inside and not waste space or add weight. However I cannot see a way of having this section hinging forward without seeing the hinge barrel from the front - unless I use the sort of concealed kitchen hinges - which would not fit with the .
Anyone got any cleverer ideas for this?
Thanks
Mark


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## SteveF (23 Jan 2014)

Barrel Hinges (soss)
or box lid hinges

just a thought

Steve


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## Grahamshed (23 Jan 2014)

Gasman - Have you ever heard of Haynes of Challow ?
Not far from you and the last time I was there they had one of these in their secondhand furniture shed. I spent ages trying to work out how the top drawers opened before Irealized they were hinged. It may still be there.


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## gasman (23 Jan 2014)

OK think I have solved it
I found a book I must have bought years ago called 'Desks - outstanding projects from America's best craftsmen'
And in there is this Fall-front desk




And the fall front bit has hinges concealed like this - which I think will work perfectly




Thanks for the ideas - Soss hinges were a good one
A few more days 'R&R' and I should be able to start gently
Thanks all
Mark


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## rileytoolworks (23 Jan 2014)

Looking forward to this Mark.
Just make sure you take care of your back though.

All the best.
Adam.


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## Baldhead (23 Jan 2014)

Looking forward to this, oh by the way, back surgery is not minor, hope all went well.

Baldhead


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## andersonec (23 Jan 2014)

Quadrant casement hinges have a built in stop will open to 90deg, Ian Hawthorne calls his 'Neat Hinges'

http://hawthornecrafts.com/box-hardware/

Andy


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## xy mosian (24 Jan 2014)

Hi, I have been pondering this and come up with:-




The relieved under rail, and the space immediately above it, would make a dust trap. This could be avoided by leaving an unseen gap at the back, of the rail.
HTH
xy


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## gasman (24 Jan 2014)

Baldhead thank you - actually as back surgery goes this is relatively minor - I have had the medial end of one rib trimmed by a couple of inches to remove the joint with the backbone which was very arthritic and the source of quite a bit of pain. My back problems are long-term but this might give quite good pain relief. I am 3 days post-op and feeling better already
Andy thank you - but you would see the knuckle of the hinge from the outside which I cannot have
XY thank you - this was the solution which I posted a copy of from the book 'Desks - outstanding projects from America's best craftsmen on page 1 of this thread. Yours is much more beautifully drawn though and at the sort of scale I can plan it much better
Thanks again and regards to all Mark


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## SteveF (24 Jan 2014)

easy to picture if u grab a fag packet 


Steve


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## xy mosian (24 Jan 2014)

Sorry Mark, I missed that image. Still pleased to be a little help. I'm looking forward to the WIP.
xy


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## billybuntus (25 Jan 2014)

Looking forward to the WIP. Plan on doing something similar but with around 6 drawers in the bottom of a large cabinet.


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## Peter Sefton (26 Jan 2014)

Xy was on the right lines for the fall flap try these ideas
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=6Maz ... ts&f=false

You can buy the brass Back Flap hinges from Martins http://www.martin.co.uk/index.php?route ... uct_id=390

The Secretaire catch http://www.martin.co.uk/index.php?route ... uct_id=373

The Secreaire stay is very poor quality but shows how they should be http://www.martin.co.uk/index.php?route ... uct_id=374

I had made a few flaps over the years, looking forward to how this develops.
Cheers Peter


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## gasman (27 Jan 2014)

Ah Peter that is great thank you - I have been searching for resources about secretaire desks - the only one I had found prior to this one you sent is this http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=...EQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=secretaire chest&f=false
which has some interesting ideas and is helpful too





Hopefully going to start gently this week sometime
Thanks again
Mark


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## MickCheese (27 Jan 2014)

Mark

That looks like a good solution but please don't use those ugly dovetails! :evil: 

Mick


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## gasman (4 Feb 2014)

Thanks to all for your encouragement. I started in earnest over the weekend - sorting out the walnut and working out where the drawer fronts etc were going to come from. I had to make a big decision early on whether to use sapwood or not - and I have decided that the sides, top, fronts will all be heart wood and the sapwood I may use for some of the drawer sides and backs. What do others think of that?
Anyway on with the build.
I started with the two sides - and I had one beautiful board with 12" of hardwood in the centre (the board was 17 1/2" wide!) - so used that for 2 pieces 1150 x 305 x 18
Flattening one side using the QS number 6 - it stood up to a real pounding and kept an edge for ages




The two side pieces thicknessed down to about 19mm




Now the top and bottom pieces - which are 72 x 22mm stock which will be mitred together to form the square which will be 570 x 320 with a floating panel
I cut the front and sides from the same piece so the grain flowed round the corners




First mistake was measuring and cutting the sides at 470 rather than 570mm - aarrrggghhh! I will have to use these for something else




Mitres were cut roughly on the table saw then finished using my new 'donkey's ear' for the shooting board - worked a treat and a great addition for big mitres like these




So here is the top, with mitres cut to size etc to see how it all looks




I used some of the offcuts to make the drawer dividers - so the front edge of all the 8 front pieces is heartwood but much of the rest is sapwood - these are the 18mm squares which will provide the drawer runners and also give the cabinet more sturdiness




Finally I took another beautiful board - albeit with a big defect in the centre




and after flatteniing




I cut the heartwood for the drawer fronts in the sizes 76, 91, 109+18+131, 157, 189 and 227mm got to see how the grain will look on all the drawer fronts




So good progress on the most difficult part - I think anyway. About 10 hours in all over the weekend
So I have a couple of queries?
The folding out secretaire bit is made up of 2 of the drawers. At the moment I have this as one piece 266mm x 470 - and was going to leave it as one piece but score lines to mimic the 'gaps' between the drawers and the dividers. Will this look weird - i.e. should I make it of different grained pieces to make it more realistic and look like the others?
Next - what would you use for the back? It will not be seen. I was thinking maybe ordinary 6mm ply? or Walnut faced ply or MDF? or maybe solid walnut thicknesses down to 6mm ?
All constructive advice / criticism gratefully received
Thanks and regards
Mark


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## gasman (4 Feb 2014)

I forgot to ask another question...
I really would prefer if possible the top of this piece not to have a fielded panel in the traditional way - so instead of fielding a panel and glueing it up, in which case the top is not completely flat - there is that recess all round the top where the fielded panel is, I thought about employing a technique I have used on a couple of boxes previously.
So... you cut a 6 or 9 mm rebate in the mitred sides as normal - and then glue it up with 6 or 9mm MDF or plywood piece as the panel (I am going to domino the mitres to reinforce them).
Then, when it is all dry, you take a piece of nice figured walnut about 300 x 150 x 30, cutting it carefully on the bandsaw into 4 pieces 300 x 150 x 6, dry them out inside for a couple of weeks, then when they are dry enough, square them up very carefully and then glue them in a book matched fashion exactly into the top above the plywood. It then appears as if the top of the piece is completely flat - with a symmetrical design in the top. As I said I have done this very successfully for a box but it was A4 paper size nowhere near this big. Anyone done this or got a view as to why it is a bad idea?
Thanks as always Mark


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## gasman (6 Feb 2014)

I have done some 'theoretical' work on the geometry of the fall-front secretaire bit
From the extremely helpful sketch of XY a few posts ago, I have been working out how much of the 18mm frames for the drawers to run on will need to be scalloped out to allow the swing of the fall-front bit
Actually quite complex maths - I ended up with the formula x (the depth of the curved part of the 18mm frame which needs to be removed) = 18(1-cos45)/cos45 - = 7.45mm - so it won't lose too much rigidity which I was worried a bit about
Has anyone got any views on the questions I asked earlier? It is the fall-front I am most worried about - all the pieces for the drawer fronts are from different pieces of walnut - i.e. the grain does not flow in to one drawer from the adjacent ones - plus as I said there is an 18mm frame between each drawer front which is obviously also a different grain. At the moment I have the fall-front one piece - and was going to score lines in it to create faux drawer fronts and the 18mm spacer frame. Should instead I glue up a contrasting grain at least for the 18mm frame to make it look more realistic?
Thanks all
Regards
Mark


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## Peter Sefton (6 Feb 2014)

Hi Mark 
You have been working hard, I also like using my QS No6. 
In answer to your questions, re the double drawer front I would make them out of two separate pieces with an extra rail between this will both look better and may be more stable if the grain is picked correctly. Re the cabinet top the four piece top sounds good I would keep the solid thin if possible, personally I would have veneered this if I am following you correctly. the solid glued to the ply may either split or make the ply curl up. I like the maths for the hinged flap clearance I would draw it out full size and/or use a cut piece of cardboard with a pin through the centre pivot point to see how much clearance is needed to not fowl the rail. 
Cheers Peter


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## gasman (7 Feb 2014)

Thanks Peter that's helpful for your advice and good idea about the grain because of course this piece will not be supported 'square' by the rest of the drawer
The top will be a 'constructional veneer I think - about 2mm - I will use my hand-made drum sander in anger for the first time - made it a couple of years ago but only just got the abrasive etc for it
More this weekend
Kind regards Mark


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## carlb40 (7 Feb 2014)

Sorry can't help with any details, but i am enjoying this.


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## Peter Sefton (7 Feb 2014)

gasman":28llomc6 said:


> Thanks Peter that's helpful for your advice and good idea about the grain because of course this piece will not be supported 'square' by the rest of the drawer
> The top will be a 'constructional veneer I think - about 2mm - I will use my hand-made drum sander in anger for the first time - made it a couple of years ago but only just got the abrasive etc for it
> More this weekend
> Kind regards Mark



The 2mm veneer should be fine, looking forward to seeing the drum sander.
Cheers Peter


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## gasman (9 Feb 2014)

Finally made some real progress this weekend apart from just choosing, flattening and preparing boards
I had to make 7 of the frames which separate the drawers all made from 48 x 18mm walnut - but I chose heartwood for the visible long pieces (504mm long) and other pieces containing sapwood for the side pieces (250mm long and the rear piece (408mm)




I trued them all up on the shooting board - which to be honest I don't know how I ever managed without




These were domino'ed with 5mm doms
and then glued up and clamped one at a time




The frame which is below the fall-front has to have a scalloped groove cut i it - which is 36mm wide, 7.5mm deep and has radius 25.5mm - so I marked 36mm from the front edge with the marking gauge Adam gave me for secret santa - it is so beautiful




then used a 1/2" coving bit to cut it out bit by bit like this




Once it was done roughly, I used a round card-scraper to finish it




and then glued up this frame as before




Once they were all dry I planed both sides completely flat carefully and put them to one side




Another instalment later as it won't let me add any more images
Cheers
Mark


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## gasman (9 Feb 2014)

Turned to the sides of the cabinet - these needed to have 5mm deep grooves 18mm wide cut across for the drawer frames to sit in - so after a lot of careful marking out and rechecking I used a i/2 inch spiral cut router bit in a Festool 1010 router running along the rail - it was fiddly to alter it but the micro-adjust feature of the 1010 was really useful




Eventually it was all done




And then a dry run of the cabinet -at which point I had had enough for the weekend and was aching a bit




About 20 hours or so in all so far
Cheers
mark


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## Peter Sefton (9 Feb 2014)

Looks like another busy and productive weekend.
Peter


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## Tierney (9 Feb 2014)

Really interesting thread - keep 'em coming. Oh and great progress for 20 hours effort!

DT


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## gasman (10 Feb 2014)

Made some progress in an hour or so tonight after I got home
Carefully planed the insides of the vertical cabinet sides - I will put some oil on before glueing up
Then cut a rebate at the back of these same side pieces on the router table for the back - which will be 1/4" something - anyone any ideas whether it could be plywood or whether it needs to be solid wood?? If I got 1/4" walnut-faced ply I could use that for the drawer bases too??
Went to Oxon Fastenings to try to find some back-flap hinges in brass but they don't have any so I found these on ebay for £9 including postage - they should polish up OK




Also worked out I have just about enough sapwood to do the sides of all the drawers - outstanding - the wood is all about 28mm - so if I am very careful and get a new bandsaw blade I should be able to resaw down to 2 x 12mm? Need to find backs too.... mmm might need more walnut!
Ian I need a couple of new blades! 22 hours so far
Regards
Mark


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## Peter Sefton (10 Feb 2014)

Hi Mark
Walnut faced ply sounds like a sensible idea for the back and drawer bottoms as you won't have any movement issues, the hinges in the picture are Table hinges rather than Back flaps. The main differences are the Table hinge has one leaf longer than the other usually to span the cove on a gate leg tables rule joint, this may be useful to you depending on how you are going to resolve the detail between the flap and the table top. The knuckle on the Table hinge is on the opposite side to the countersunk holes of the leaf compared to the back flap hinge. Just thought I would point this out incase you hadn't noticed, this will change this centre of pivot on the falling flap.
http://www.martin.co.uk/index.php?route ... 100&page=2
Cheers Peter


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## Baldhead (10 Feb 2014)

I'm enjoying this.

Baldhead


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## gasman (11 Feb 2014)

Hi Peter - thanks for pointing that out - actually I saw those on ebay and thought they look perfect - because the 2 components of the fall flap are cut at 45 degrees - so because these hinges have more length on one side they will have more wood underneath and I can put a full 3/4" brass screw in there
Also - I liked the fact they are 'upside-down' as it were - as the pivot of these hinges has to be exactly positioned correctly and these hinges will still be flush with the top when they are at the correct depth. Anyway we'll see when they arrive
Thanks guys
Mark


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## Peter Sefton (11 Feb 2014)

Mark 
You are right the hinges will look very neat and give a level internal surface when the flap is down ideal for your application. 
Cheers Peter


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## gasman (13 Feb 2014)

Had a few hours this afternoon so got quite a bit done
I machined all the sapwood and leftover bits of the walnut I had used so far (I still have one board left) and then after much head-scratching, had enough just about after joining a couple of pieces to have enough wood for all the 5 drawers - here they are all roughly cut to size but thicknesses to 12mm





Here are the 4 pieces for the biggest drawer - which is 227mm deep




So I put them to one side then looked again at the carcass - and after sanding down and card-scraping the insides and those 7 frames, I glued it all up with TB3 - that's all my clamps!




This included a 'repair' I have had to do to a split in the right hand side-piece which I grain matched a small piece to fit




I have grain-matched a very small piece on the outside but I think it needs a bit more work
26 hours so far
Cheers
Mark


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## xy mosian (13 Feb 2014)

Gasman, Mark, It is all looking very good, and your rate of work is awesome. I would still be thinking about it.  
I'm having a problem with your hinges, please try them out on scrap before cutting anything beyond rescue. Although they would look great, I have a sneaking suspicion that if the centre of the hinge pin is not on the same plane as the flap and shelf upper surface, the flap will open leaving a gap. This may not be a problem of course, but better forewarned.
Keep up the great work.
xy


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## gasman (14 Feb 2014)

Thanks XY for your comments and concerns. I also have concerns about these hinges - but figured that as they were not very expensive, if I am wrong they can just be added to the box of brass hinges, locks etc which I have and I am sure I will use them one day
These are the two pieces which will make up the fall front:








And this is how they will be when the drop down flap is closed




The problem is that if I just use any sort of normal hinge, there is not enough wood under the hinge to get a decent screw length in as follows




And as XY says, the hinge pivot has to be exactly at the point where the 2 'corners' of the flap pieces meet
There are also back flap hinges which at least have 3 screws with 2 further away which might work?
There are secretaire hinges which go along the side which I do not think will work
Anyone any better ideas?
Thanks
Mark


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## Sailormantom (14 Feb 2014)

Hi Mark. Fascinating WIP, thanks very much for taking the time. I saw these on the US Amazon site - not sure if they would do what you want but worth a look. http://www.amazon.com/Antique-Brass-Dro ... B003ZWNMWS

Cheers, Tom


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## marcros (14 Feb 2014)

could you cut the screw, and just use it for show, and epoxy the hinge in place on the problem side. Not traditional, I know, but...


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## gasman (14 Feb 2014)

Thanks Tom - but when the fall-front is open, the angle is 180 degrees not 90 so those quadrant hinges will not do it I do not think
Marcros - yes that is a possibility and I have done that many times for small boxes. The trouble is the fall front is a 19mm thick piece of solid walnut measuring 266 x 470 x 19 and I think it needs some really chunky hinges with decent screws biting in and, probably, a quadrant stay as well to make it strong enough
I also wondered about these secretaire hinges but I don't think I can attach them to the inside 'sides' of the cabinet




Thanks again and best wishes
Mark


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## AndyT (14 Feb 2014)

Just a quick thought to add another possibility - if you don't want to use the quadrant stays to share the weight of the flap, is it too late to suggest lopers? (Long bits of wood which pull out horizontally on either side, to support the flap.)
I think the American desk in your book might have them, behind those black curved parts - unless they are just fancy drawer pulls.
For added difficulty, I believe they can be made to emerge automatically as the flap is lowered, but I have no idea how!


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## xy mosian (14 Feb 2014)

Hi Mark, I see your problem, with the length of screw into the 'cabinet' piece. How about taking the hinges you have and countersinking them from the other face? A screw of the next gauge up might help.
xy


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## Peter Sefton (14 Feb 2014)

Mark 
The usual hinge used in Secretaries is the Back Flap, when the hinges is fitted flush to the writing surface this gives the center point right between the flap and the table top. The timber is not cut at 45 degrees but as shown on page 267 fig 2 more of a zig zag at about 30 degrees. 
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=6Maz ... ts&f=false 
This means you don't have any feather edges that may be weak or liable to break over time, I have used this a few times over the years without any problems, the down side to this hinge is that half the knuckle is exposed above the writing surface although traditionally this would partially be disguised by the leather skiver as a writing surface with the knuckle cut through. 
If no leather is to be used then you may be able to use the table hinge you have purchased but the center of pivot will be below the writing surface with the entire knuckle hidden, this will be very neat but may not work as the moving surfaces may bind. I would plot it out full size on thin card board (a cornflake packet) and cut it into the separate parts, lay them over another piece of card and use a pin to act as the center of pivot, move the parts and see where they bind, move the pin and try again until you get it working. It may not but you have only wasted cardboard and twenty minutes, not your Walnut. As I am sure you know hinging is all about the pivot point here is an article I wrote a couple of years ago it covers the Table hinge and how it works.
http://www.peterseftonfurnitureschool.c ... hinges.pdf
Cheers Peter


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## gasman (16 Feb 2014)

Peter many thanks for your kind and helpful advice
I am still waiting for the table hinges - but I now know they are wrong and I will need to do something else - I will have a think and decide after they arrive - but for now, I parked the fall flap to one side and got on with some other stuff
The main cabinet looked fine when I unclamped it - so I tidied it up a little, planed the front flat and filled a couple of cracks and knot holes with a mixture of very fine walnut dust and thin CA glue - that looks fine I think
I then started on the top and bottom. I cut 5mm dominos in the mitred joints of the top and bottom to strengthen the mitre joints - I was very careful with the geometry in case I went through to the face side








The main cabinet will 'sit' in the top and bottom so I need to rebate the bottom of the top and the top of the bottom 5mm. I made this 7mm deep




Then the bottom has 1/4" plywood as a bottom (there is going to be a secret compartment in the bottom so this ply will be the bottom of it




Glued up the bottom - quite a rush to get it all glued up Ok and square but a rubber mallet was useful to tap the mitres home with the dominos quite a tight fit - then clamped up once it was all square




Out of clamps 2 hours later - looking OK I think




The top was similar - except that I am going to put this 'constructional veneer of quarter-matched crotch walnut on the top - so I used 9mm plywood for the floating panel but had this within 2mm of the upper surface - so the veneer will sit exactly in this 2mm gap - then clamped up the top - even more complicated as I had added 2 cross members to give the veneered top more stability




Here is the piece of crotch walnut I am going to but the veneers from:




- I gave my bandsaw a tune up with a file and carefully cut the veneers at about 3mm - but I planed the surface flat after each veneer was cut
Here are the 4 book-matched pieces




That just about finished me for the day - tidies up and sharpened my tools - about another 8 hours so I reckon 34 hours so far
Regards Mark


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## Peter Sefton (16 Feb 2014)

The matched top is going to look great :!: 
Peter


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## xy mosian (16 Feb 2014)

This is very nearly as good as watching someone else work. Keep up the great work Mark.
xy


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## Baldhead (16 Feb 2014)

Peter Sefton":1acsq6ct said:


> The matched top is going to look great :!:
> Peter


+1 

Really enjoying this WIP

Baldhead


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## gasman (17 Feb 2014)

Sneaked another hour and a half in tonight
The 3mm constructional veneers I passed through the home-made sander which worked fine but I think I need 80 grit rather than 120 as it took so long and so many passes - I'll add a photo later as its on my iPhone
Then I looked at how dry they were after a night in our kitchen (it has an Aga so is like an oven) - and the moisture meter said 8% so I reckon that's good to glue down




So I glued up one of them today - used PU glue (gloves) as it dries quickest and will expand into any gaps




Here's the second glued up and clamped




Then finished by slowly and carefully enlarging the width in the base to fit the carcass by enlarging the rebates on either side with an Axi 3-in-1 plane - using it effectively as a chisel plane- only about 0.25mm was necessary on each side




So here it is at the moment - with the top glued up I can fit both then most of the hard bits are down and it just a question of the drawers, the fall front (!) and the 'insides'. It is 36 hours or so - much longer than I thought but I think the remainder will speed up - suspect it will be 80 hours by the end though. Does this seem overly long?




Thanks again for all support
Mark


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## AndyT (17 Feb 2014)

I notice that you said you 'gave your bandsaw a tune-up with a file' before you cut the veneer. Could you tell us a bit more please? I didn't think anybody dared sharpen bandsaw blades!


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## gasman (17 Feb 2014)

Sure Andy - it is quite an old Tuffsaw blade, 3 tpi. So I got a very narrow round metal file - I think it is 5mm tapering to a point. Then with the blade still in the bandsaw I marked the blade at one point and then used the file to expose new metal in the gullet and on the face of each tooth. Each tooth alternates with the set so you have to angle each one a bit. As my bandsaw is 103 1/2" that means 310 teeth! Actually it only takes about 10 minutes as you getvthe hang of it quite quickly. I was dubious and tried it on some scrap first but it definitely improved things
Here's a reference - can't remember where I heard about it first
http://www.kmstools.com/blog/sharpening-bandsaw-blades/
HTH
Mark


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## gasman (17 Feb 2014)

Here's the home made sander - needs a bit of tuning I think




Showing the motor and the height adjuster - actually a 3/4" wood screw and handle




Cheers
Mark


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## Peter Sefton (17 Feb 2014)

I would say 80 hours all in is good and the sander looks interesting.
Cheers Peter


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## gasman (19 Feb 2014)

First disaster...
I glued up the last of the 4 quadrants in the top last night - and when I went out there at 5am (early riser sorry), one of the 4 quadrants is lower by about 1.5mm in one corner. It is going to be touch and go whether I can get it all flat and true without breaking through the veneer in one place. Not sure what to do. I have planed it all down by about 0.5 mm this morning and it is all beautiful apart from that one place. I can only think that one of the veneers must have been unevenly thinned in one corner when I passed it through the sander thicknesser. Hated machine wish I had never gone near it!
I have still got some veneer left over so could possibly rout out that piece and start again - will have another look when I get home from work tonight


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## gasman (19 Feb 2014)

A close shave but it is OK I think
I ended up taking about 1.2mm off the whole surface and then with a bit of card-scraping over the offending area it was all OK
That would have been an absolute nightmare to redo / patch - don't think I'll be doing much sanding of that!
Cheers
Mark


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## jimmyhenson (19 Feb 2014)

That top looks stunning, great work, i'm really enjoying this post.


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## Baldhead (19 Feb 2014)

That is one very nice top. 

One question, how the hell do you cut your mitres? Mine are nowhere near as good as yours!

Baldhead


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## gasman (20 Feb 2014)

I'll take some photos later - but I made a shooting board from the LN website here http://www.lie-nielsen.com/content/documents/instructions/L-N_51_Shooting_Board_Info.pdf and then added a much bigger donkeys ear and it is absolutely great - wish I had made it years ago as it gives perfect mitres every time. It took a bit of fettling with a digital angle gauge to get the angles right but now done it is a permanent fixture on my bench


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## gasman (21 Feb 2014)

I had another day off work today so got another 6 hours done 
First here's the shooting board I use with the 2 attachments




And here with the donkey's ear in place for these chunky mitres




Here is where I started the day




I had bought some end-milling small router bits and they are a real find - quite cheap too off eBay




Mounted in the router with a 1/8" mounting collet inside another 1/4" collet inside the 1/2" router collet! Not ideal but it worked great
The pencil marked are to tell me when to start and stop the router pass 




So I cut inlay grooves 12mm from the edge all round of the 2 matching pieces which will form the sides, one of which is lockable to keep the cabinet secure







- the 1.6mm ebony stringing fits really well in the 1.6mm grove which I had made about 1.2mm deep. I use a 5ml syringe containing TB3 together with a big 18G blunt needle (I work in the operating theatres) - here is the first of those 2 side pieces finished




Then I did the base and the top in the same way - 12mm in all round




Finished by glueing the left hand piece in place


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## Baldhead (21 Feb 2014)

Thanks for the link for the shooting board, the ebony stringing looks really nice, enjoying this WIP.

Baldhead


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## gasman (22 Feb 2014)

I started thinking about the fall flap again this morning. I still have not got it sorted out in my head. the hinges arrived which are for a drop down table as we discussed. I am thinking of remaking the fall front without the 45 degree edges - in the Joyce reference you sent me Peter, there is what he describes as a 'rabbeted / rebated' mating surface for the flap - do you know if there is a router cutter which will cut that? I have looked on Wealden and can't see anything suitable and I am racking my brains to see how I can cut that by hand??
Got to work today :-(
More later
Cheers Mark


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## Peter Sefton (22 Feb 2014)

Hi Mark
I don't know of a specific router cutter for the joint, I would take out to the square shoulder with a router rebate cutter or on the spindle, if neither of those were to hand I would use the biscuit jointer to cut a shallow groove. The slope could be hand planed with a shoulder or rebate plane after hogging out with one of the methods above. I would do it all on the spindle moulder in two cuts first the square rebate, and then tilting the rebate block over for the slope.
If I was state side I would do it over the top of the table saw with the blade canted with a thick shaw guard for protection, but I couldn't recommend it in the UK as it would be outside the Regs.
Depending on where the centre of pivot is, you may need the cut a shallow curve in the top of the drawer rail below the flap so it doesn't foul, if I remember you sensibly did this before assembly but if you need to tweak it I would do it with a scratch stock or cabinet scraper.
Hope it goes well today Peter


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## gasman (22 Feb 2014)

Thanks Peter for the ideas... my sad face about working is that I am at proper work - not woodworking!
I will ponder some more. The shallow groove is all cut and is fine I think
Thanks again
Mark


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## gasman (23 Feb 2014)

I got a lot done today - all the dovetails for the 5 main drawers are cut and ready - plus I made a cover for the secret compartment in the base and added a rebate which it sits in. Haven't decided yet what mechanism to open it - maybe a spring loaded button at the back




I have some snaps of the dovetailing
Sorry didm;t get any photos of cutting the pins




scoring the width of the sides on the back of the front piece - thanks Adam for this I absolutely treasure it (Secret Santa 2013)




Marking out the dovetails with a scalpel - in my Moxon vice - not a lovely one like Jimi's etc but it is functional




Cutting the right side of the line!




Chopping out the waste - this is a 19mm japanese mortice chisel and it gives a serious clout!








Here it is after tidying up - 




I used Racers's beautiful fishtail chisel (Secret Santa 2012) - it needed sharpening at this point as the walnut is quite hard on the edge tools




Purists look away now - I then decided - due to the fact that the back pieces of the 2 largest drawers were annoyingly several mm too short to make it full width with through dovetails - just to square the backs off and fit them into rebates in the sides - but also I will drill some contrasting dowels once it is glued up. I have done this before and it looks nice - but not the full through dovetails I was planning. Actually it saved me such a lot of time as I had cut already 28 dovetails today by hand.
I finished by planing all the faces of the drawers inside and out with a finely set LA plane set at 35 degrees which trial and error-wise works for me with this timber to give a shiny surface
Anyway here are the 5 drawers all finished and waiting for the groove for the drawer bottom to be fitted - think I am going to use some fairly plain plywood as there will be a baize lining to the drawers




Long day but it was a good weekend - total time now is at 49 hours
Mark


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## xy mosian (23 Feb 2014)

Another master class in the finer points of cabinet making. I am always delighted by the effect of a thin string line inlay. They, the inlays, lift the very good to something in a higher plain. Thank you for sharing this Mark.
xy


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## gasman (26 Feb 2014)

A little update as I got home early so have done 2 hours tonight - total now 51 hours
The drawers are ready to glue up - all the 6mm grooves etc cut for the bases on the router table and the bases cut from 6mm plywood
Here is the smallest drawer pieces - but the others are all at the same stage




And I cut the grooves and inlaid the ebony in this one drawer just to see if it looked OK. The stringing is 12mmm from the edge all round - except for the right hand end - because the locking side piece takes up 27mm of the edge of the drawer to prevent it opening without unlocking the side piece which means at the right hand end of all the drawers there will be 39mm to the start of the string inlay. Does that make sense? Anyway that's why it is lopsided. I do not think it matters that it is lopsided like this as it will look symmetrical until you unlock and open that side piece. The 2 drawer pulls will also be slightly lopsided in the same way




Detail of the string inlay




I am happy with it all now except for that blasted fall-front - but even that is looking a bit clearer in my mind and I have a plan I think.
That's all till the weekend I think!
Cheers
Mark


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## gasman (1 Mar 2014)

I got 5 hours done yesterday might and today - total I think 56 hours now
I am delighted to have solved the fall front problem. Some backslap hinges I got for a couple of quid off ebay are more than man enough and not even sure if I need the quadrant stays
So I started with the bit the fall front is hinged to as this is most easily replaceable in case I got it wrong. Cut out for the hinges, drilled a 2.5mm hole and a 3/4" no 6 brass screw gave me such a good hold I was convinced there and then that it would all be alright. This is the half which the other 2 screw holes will be very shallow because of the 45 degree bevelled edge - so I will cut 2 screws very short and use CA glue to help fix it - but it is very solid




Cut the other hinge in




Then I just went ahead and cut hinges into the fall front as well and put one screw in each side so I could see how it looked




Here I have clamped it as if it was in place and the fall front is 'up'. You can also see where I started inlaying the ebony stringing on the fall front




The rest of the stringing took a little while - but just fiddly nothing too dramatic




Then glued up the first drawer




After cleaning the drawer up I trial fitted it. It needs a bit of fiddling with but fits OK




Finally I clamped the fall front pieces in place and had a little look to see how it opens - and again it needs some fiddling with but I think will be fine. The curved cutout bit is good - but the position it is clamped is crucial so I will l get everything else ready first before doing that




Almost feel I am on the home run - the only tricky bit left is the body of drawers inside the fall front - either in cherry or sycamore
Thanks again for all your help - has been invaluable
Cheers
mark


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## Peter Sefton (1 Mar 2014)

All looking good, it will be interesting to see which timber you choose for your pigeon holes, the clean contrasting Sycamore or the warm tones of the Walnut and Cherry.


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## the_g_ster (1 Mar 2014)

This is a great post, lovely to see the time and care to plan the piece but also take the time out to post on here.

I wouldn't fancy trying to get this on a camel or a ship, as I thought campaign furniture was able to go in a case etc to be transported.


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## gasman (6 Mar 2014)

My apologies for the delay in the next instalment. Have had this week off so got quite a bit done - total hours now is up to 72
The fall front took quite a while to get to fit properly - the slightest bit out and it rubbed when opened or closed. After a couple of hours fiddling with it I finally got it to work perfectly - here it is closed - it protrudes about 0.25mm which I will take off with a final planing




And here it is open - I have added 3 screws from below to secure it at the moment - and I may never glue it - not sure yet




I turned to the inside drawers - and immediately chose the warm cherry over the sycamore as I think it will match the walnut better
I got some 12mm plywood and cut the sides of the 'box' that the drawers will sit in. This box will be very useful as it will hide some of the bits I need to hide!
Then I glued some 12mm thick, 30mm wide cherry onto each piece of plywood so that it was 'lipped' with cherry for the front. I used PU glue for this - then when it was dry used a card scraper to get rid of the surplus glue




I also cut up some 6mm ply and lipped that in the same way to act as the drawer dividers
The it was just a question of carefully and painstakingly routing out grooves for the drawers in the sides, top and bottom of this box to fit all the dividers so that the drawer heights were 75, 70 and 65mm. Here are all the pieces ready for the glue up




Then there was a slightly stressful moment as all the joints had to be glued at the same time




Unclamped it looked good and fitted well inside the main cabinet




Finally I started the drawers - had some lovely stock left for the drawer fronts without any of that brownish streaking which cherry sometimes has - so here's a stack of the fronts, sides and backs of the 3 pairs of drawers




Should get all the drawers fitted today
Cheers
Mark


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## paul saunders (6 Mar 2014)

Looking good, can't wait to see it finished. 

sent from my Xperia Z


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## gasman (6 Mar 2014)

Last day of my weeks holiday today
I got all the small cherry drawers finished
Using the Moxon vice I set it up with all the usual chisels etc - a mortice chisel, 1/2" japanese chisel and 2 fishtail chisels etc




Cut all the tails first and then chopped out the mortices one by one. I have cut a lot of dovetails - 78 I think in total!




I did the same trick as before for the backs of the drawers - just a rebate. Then routed a 6mm groove all round and cut some more plywood for the base
Clamped up one by one




Until I had 6 drawers all glued up




The one by one I planed them down to fit the box - had briefly forgotten how tricky cherry can be - lots of tear out - even more than the walnut
I ended up using the QS low angle BU jack plane with a 46 degree blade and the mouth closed.




Eventually they were all finished - quite tight fitting but smooth to open and shut




I am getting there - albeit slower than I hoped. Total time now is 81 hours
All I have left to do is the secret compartment in the top and I know how I am doing that, finish fitting the main drawers, fit the handles to the drawers, find some small brass handles for the small drawers, and then the finishing. Should be under 100 hours which is the upper limit of what I told the client it would take
Cheers
Mark


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## Paul Chapman (6 Mar 2014)

Looking really good, Mark.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## gasman (10 Mar 2014)

I have had a couple of frustrating days - things not working out or silly mistakes
However progress albeit slow has been made
For the first time I assembled everything I have done so far to see how it all looks:




And here with the fall front opened showing the cherry drawers inside




I got some lovely little brass handles in antique brass finish but I thought they looked much better polished




Meanwhile I made an MDF jig to cut the 37.5mm holes for the brass military pull handles - consisting of a 40mm hole in a piece of MDF - then an 8mm router bit in the Leigh 11mm guide bush cuts the 37.5mm hole exactly - 
I practiced first on this piece




Then for the actual drawer front, I centred the jig using 'cross-hairs' drawn in pencil




Here are the 2 handles cut in for the top drawer (the smallest - so if I c**k it up it is the easiest to replace!)




Finally for now I have made a little walnut box which is going to sit in the upper of the 2 secret compartments - will take photos to show that next time. The top has pieces from my piece of crotch walnut quarters into it to mirror the top of the main cabinet




It has an insert to keep fountain pens made on the router table using a cove cutter in an unidentified South African wood - which I think gets called stinkwood because of the smell
Anyway it polished up beautifully




Thanks all for nice comments
Mark


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## gasman (11 Mar 2014)

The little walnut box has had 2 coats of Liberon finishing oil and is starting to look lovely
I am up to 88 hours in total now - but this includes 6 for the little box
Jobs still to do include:
Fitting the other 12 brass handles - maybe an hour in total
Cutting the lock into the righthand locking piece - maybe another hour in total
Finishing the upper secret compartment - maybe an hour
Cutting and fitting the plywood back - an hour or so
Final finishing and fitting the main drawers - might be a couple of hours
Final finishing and fitting the small drawer cabinet - an hour
Final glue up - an hour
Sanding sealer and finishing oil followed by waxing - couple of hours total in divided doses
So I think still possible to sneak in under 100 hours but that did include the extra box I had not planned
I have one other problem I would love some help to solve:
The fall front needs a mechanism to keep it shut. It is easy to open with the brass handles - but needs some way of holding it shut. I know Peter you kindly pointed out the secretaire catch - but I cannot see how I get to the catch to release it as surely it will be behind the fall front - I wonder if I should have made the fall front not as wide - but too late for that now? Confused
I could easily just do it with magnets but not very traditional so not ideal
Thanks for help
Cheers
Mark


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## gasman (11 Mar 2014)

Ahhhh just had another look at the secretaire catch and I think it might work if the mechanism was mounted such that the button was only revealed by taking the drawer out above - is that how they work?
Also just realised where I have gone wrong. The original secretaire catch would have been mounted inside the fall front but was accessible because that whole cabinet slid out by a couple of inches when you pulled the handles. I have not got that sliding mechanism so need to find another solution. mmmmm any ideas welcomed!


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## xy mosian (11 Mar 2014)

Hi Mark, Your cabinet is looking mightily impressive! 
As for a catch, how about a Ball Catch or even a Lock?
xy


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## gasman (11 Mar 2014)

Yes maybe ball catch good idea thanks xy. A lock would be visible from the front so not so good I think
Thanks again


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## Peter Sefton (11 Mar 2014)

You are right the Secretaire catch is released when the sliding drawer construction is pulled out to reveal the pigeon holes as yours is not a moving one but only a fall flap it won't work for you. As mentioned a ball catch may be your best option, the ball tends to mark the timber as it is pulled out so you may wish to fit it into the cabinet so the door suffers rather than the cabinet you can use the brass catch plate they are supplied with but they are a bit basic. You may wish to use rare earth magnets but they are not traditional so you can bury them under veneer or leather to hide them.
Cheers Peter


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## gasman (13 Mar 2014)

Thanks Peter
Yes I totally understand what you are saying about the ball catch marking the wood. I will investigate - and yes good idea about hiding the magnets
More this weekend
Cheers
Mark


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## Fishandchips (13 Mar 2014)

How about a secret mechanism activated by pulling the drawer above slightly to release and unlock the drop door?

I did a quick google image search for secret locking mechanisms and there was loads of ideas.

It would serve to hold the drop door closed and also lock it without spoiling the immaculate work you did.


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## gasman (14 Mar 2014)

Thanks FishandChips I like the idea of a secret mechanism but I think on balance too fiddly and time consuming. It has already taken too long - up to 90 hours now and I think the brass button catches will look fine as long as polished up like the rest of the brass work
Last night I got all the drawer fronts finished, chopping out for all 14 brass handles. It took a bit longer than I thought but then I got into a rhythm and it was OK. After routing out the surface 3mm, I used a 1" forstner bit, then a 5/8" forstner bit, then chopped out for the hinge by hand





Then I chopped out the cabinet side ready to receive the lock for the locking side piece




I have done some work on the 2 secret compartments. They are not terribly clever but suit purpose I think
The first is in the base and is very simple




There is a panel cut to fit this exactly with very little gap around but which has one edge which is bevelled




When the panel is in place (and remember you have to remove the lower drawer to even see this), it looks fairly plain




But if you push down on the left hand side of the panel it lifts like this




The upper panel is similar but done with rare earth magnets on the inside edges of the frame and on the edges of the hinged panel




Here, with the top removed, is that panel, held in place by 6 x 6mm rare earth magnets




The magnets are strong enough to hold the box which fits exactly into the rebate for the panel




I will cut an access hole on each side to allow finger pressure to push the panel down and reveal the box (again once the top drawer is removed)




I need to cut those holes and add a rest to stop that hinged panel swinging down too far
More later
Cheers
Mark


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## gasman (16 Mar 2014)

Another 10 hours this weekend which takes me to 100 hours in total and it is nearly finished
The smaller cherry cabinet got 2 layers of hardwaxoil, then polished and waxed once with briwax




The client wanted all the drawers to have baize bottoms and one drawer to have smaller compartments as follows - this is in sycamore




The quartered top looks lovelier and lovelier with each coat - this is after 2 coats of hardwaxoil




The drawers have all just had the one coat of HWO so far




as has the main cabinet




I dropped a drawer and it landed on its front corner on the workshop floor - tried to steam out the damage with an iron but it wasn't having any of it
I ended up making a small slit behind the face and after cutting a sliver of cherry from some similar wood, tapped this tiny wedge in - it looks worse here than when taken with this macro lens




This is the mark I put on all my work somewhere discreet. This is on the inside of the locking strip which goes up the right hand side - it is a 4mm plug cut in end grain with a square below it.




I am a tiny bit disappointed it has taken so long and there are probably another 4 or 5 hours to put it all together - but the finishing line in site and it has been a very satisfying project!
Cheers
Mark


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## Peter Sefton (16 Mar 2014)

Mark 
I would say you have done well to make it in your spare time in 100 hours, I am sure your customer will be very happy. I would personally set out the Lapped Dovetail drawers differently, I would for instance have kept the half end pins and main pins the same size about 3mm on end grain, people often think a half pin should be half the size it should IMO be just half the angle (one sided) 
The top does look fantastic! 
Cheers Peter


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## graduate_owner (16 Mar 2014)

Very, very nice.
I would just love to be able to make a piece of furniture like that. Perhaps one day, before my eyesight lets me down completely as far as woodworking is concerned.

K


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## gasman (16 Mar 2014)

Peter do you know I have never even thought of that - I kind of assumed al the dovetails were done like I had done them.... I will bear it in mind for next time. Thanks a lot for your comments - and for yours K


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## gasman (17 Mar 2014)

This has been the longest last few steps I have ever done - the little jobs just seem to go on and on
However, progress continues albeit slowly
I fitted the small drawer cabinet inside the main cabinet after glueing the piece which the fall front attaches to in place after a bit of gaffing to make sure it was in the right position. The small cabinet is fixed with 2 screws from below - but it was a tight fit anyway
Then I fitted a 4mm walnut 'border' around this which serves 2 purposes - one it hides the slight gap to the left and right and top and second it is 18mm from the front of the cabinet so will act as a stop for the fall front




Yesterday I had added a rebated edge in stinkwood to the back of the fall front - I do not think this needs a leather inlaid piece now
This is after 2 coats of hardwaxoil




And the rest of the cabinet here assembled after 2 coats




The small box in the upper secret compartment got some wax all over and and baize inside and on the bottom




Tending towards magnets now to hold the fall front as they will be almost invisible
I have also added 4 small circular walnut 'feet' - 40mm diameter and 8mm thick just to hold it clear of the carpet
One more push and it will be done
Cheers Mark


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## gasman (20 Mar 2014)

All the brass work fitted - the brass handles took a little while as the holes had quite a bit of the hard wax oil and wax in. Finish so far has been 3 coats of hardwaxoil rubbed down with 0000 wire wool in-between - then 2 coats of Beeswax - looks good it has a nice sheen








Just the baize to cut for each drawer
It needs some good photos taken in natural light to show the contrast between the walnut and cherry
I am happy overall. There are a few little tiny dinks and things which weren't perfect - but my wife who is a very honest critic of mine (!) says it is fine which is the acid test I apply before finishing
Cheers
Mark


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## liamscanlan (20 Mar 2014)

Simply stunning work and a great WIP!
Thank you.
Liam


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## DMF (20 Mar 2014)

Wow! That should do it re the cabinet itself it's pointless me trying to do better than that at the moment, but on top of that working on it part time and with a WIP I can't believe how quickly you have progressed with this, work rate must be about flow and to clear your head from work and crack on with it, around a week off etc I know but well hats off to you and a great example for me of what can be achieved so glad its worked out so well and thanks for posting  

Dean


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## gasman (20 Mar 2014)

It's kind of you to say that thanks very much
I always wake early and find my hour or so each morning between 5 and 6am in the workshop invaluable - I find planning etc good then - my head is clear and all the problem-solving needed usually happens then, plus I sharpen all my hand tools so they are sharp later in the day.
Cheers
Mark


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## Paul Chapman (20 Mar 2014)

Excellent, Mark. Really enjoyed this thread.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## MickCheese (20 Mar 2014)

That's fantastic.

I appreciate the effort this type of project must take but I also appreciate the fact you have documented it for us.

For that I thnk you.

Mick


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## Peter Sefton (20 Mar 2014)

Mark it looks great, thanks for the WIP that's a big job on top of all the hard work you have put into the making. I am sure your customer will be over the moon and you should be very proud of this challenging build. 
Thanks for sharing the experience Peter


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## xy mosian (20 Mar 2014)

That looks beautiful Mark. Thank you for posting all the details. I am particularly pleased that you are happy with it, that suggests some satisfaction with your work. Rightly so! As others have said maintaining a flow while doing a WIP must be very difficult.
xy


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## gasman (21 Mar 2014)

Thanks guys for your kind words
Actually xy I enjoy doing a WIP like this and in particular for these complex jobs designed from scratch without any plans to speak of, where there is a lot of problem solving - it is invaluable getting words of help and advice - so thank you xy, Paul, Peter and several others for your many kind and helpful suggestions as to how to solve all those tricky problems.
Last night I added baize to all the drawers, put in brass button catches to hold the fall front in (which worked perfectly without fettling), polished out a scratch in the front and reassembled the whole thing. Photos tonight.
I always get an empty feeling at the end of a job like this which a lot of heart and soul has gone into. However, I have other things to do - and, late to the party I know, have just got interested in infill planes. Bad choice for the wallet!
Cheers
Mark


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## gasman (24 Mar 2014)

Button catches fitted









Box in upper secret compartment - you get it out by removing the upper drawer, slipping both hands in and using your thumbs to flip the panel down




Final finish - 3 coats hardwaxoil plus 2 of briwax
















Lead soldiers in smaller drawer




Thanks again for all advice gratefully received
Cheers
Mark


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## MickCheese (24 Mar 2014)

That is so nice. Your client will be over the moon.

Mick


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## riclepp (24 Mar 2014)

very nice indeed , thanks for the detailed WIP


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## n0legs (24 Mar 2014)

Gorgeous work. What a beautiful piece and a brilliant WIP that I totally enjoyed.
You deserve to be very proud =D>


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## Racers (25 Mar 2014)

Very well done, I am glad the chisel came in handy.

Pete


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