# Xcalibur 12" table saw - it's here!



## Karl (7 Mar 2010)

Hi all

I pick up my new table saw tomorrow  

Can anybody who has the Xcalibur table saw tell me what height the tables are off the floor?

Thanks

Karl


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## Steve Maskery (7 Mar 2010)

HI Karl
My 10" is 895mm. But that is sitting in a mobile base and I'm not sure if that takes up a mm or two. I haven't got my eyes in yet, it's the price of woodying until 2am.....

Worth it, though!

S


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## 9fingers (7 Mar 2010)

Hi Karl,

Welcome to the Xcaliber owners club!

I don't think you will be dissappointed with the machine. I must have had mine for 3-4 years and is have been faultless.

Mine is on a modified* axminster base but allowing for that the table is 89cm above the base of the cabinet +/- a few mm.

Mine is the 10" model but I see no reason for differing cabinet heights.

I think Waka has the 12" model so maybe he can confirm.

HTH 

Bob

*I added two further castoring wheels to replace the two fixed wheels to give me easier manoeuvrability.

EDIT: Steve must have been typing as I was. I think we have have the same 10" model


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## Waka (7 Mar 2010)

I have the 12" model and the actual height from the base of the machine to the top of the table is 875mm, I have mine on a homemade stand that gives a total height of about 890mm

Hope this helps.


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## Karl (7 Mar 2010)

Thanks for the replies guys.

I am picking the saw up in the morning, so will report back once it's in the 'shop.

Cheers

Karl


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## Karl (7 Mar 2010)

Waka - can you do me a big favour and tell me what the dimension is side to side, assuming the extensions and rails are taken off? The widest point seems to be the handle on the LHS to the fins on the RHS.

Also, what's round the back of the machine? DX port?

Cheers

Karl


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## Waka (7 Mar 2010)

Karl

It's as near as damit 80 cm.

There is nothing around the back of the machine, the is below the fins on the RHS, this lifts off to give you easy access to the inside.

You should have no problem setting this up when it arrives, quite straight forward, even the table alignment.

Let us know how you get on, with pic's, otherwise it's not real.


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## Karl (7 Mar 2010)

Waka":mdqh9yjw said:


> There is nothing around the back of the machine, the is below the fins on the RHS,



Should that read "There is nothing around the back of the machine, the DX is below the fins on the RHS" ? 

Waka - pictures tomorrow, I promise!

Cheers

Karl


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## Mr Ed (7 Mar 2010)

You're on a roll at the moment Karl. Nice work on the new saw.

Ed


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## Karl (7 Mar 2010)

Mr Ed":2t486dn8 said:


> You're on a roll at the moment Karl. Nice work on the new saw.
> 
> Ed



Yes, and SWMBO has noticed too.......... 8-[ 

Cheers

Karl


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## Waka (7 Mar 2010)

Karl":36r22nty said:


> Waka":36r22nty said:
> 
> 
> > There is nothing around the back of the machine, the is below the fins on the RHS,
> ...



Ah yes you are right.


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## Karl (8 Mar 2010)

I'm £700 lighter and It's here!

Not quite how I planned on collecting it, but the van company from whom I was going to get a tail lift van let me down. Still, saved me £75. I had to get the guys to take the rails and side extension tables off for me though, so I am going to have to put it all back together later on.








Getting it in was easy enough - there were 3 of us. Getting it out on my own was going to be a little more difficult :lol: 











Manhandled it into its temporary resting place. 






I've just had a delivery from Axminster with some castors to make a mobile base for it. 

I'm off to wire it up and get it mobile. Will report back later.

Cheers

Karl


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## Mr Ed (8 Mar 2010)

Looks very substantial Karl. I can see that being the last tablesaw you need to buy.

Ed


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## 9fingers (8 Mar 2010)

£700 :shock: 

That is a very good price Karl - was it an ex demo machine perhaps?

I paid more than that for my 10" and though I had got a good deal.

Well done anyway.

Bob


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## Karl (8 Mar 2010)

Ed - I think you may be right  

Bob - don't worry, it's not "new" new, but "new" to me. It has come from a small woodworking shop nearby, run by a father and son. They are shutting down and wanted rid. They've had it two years, and it looks like it has had an easy life to date. I thought it was a good price though - they're £2k new.

Cheers

Karl


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## 9fingers (8 Mar 2010)

An excellent price indeed Karl.

Bob


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## Mike.C (8 Mar 2010)

Well done Karl. I'm probably a . but I get real excited when I get a new tool, especially a machine. At 2 years old its just been nicely run in and is now ready to give you many years of stirling service. You couldn't even get the Axminster 10" saw for £700 so you have done really well  

Good luck with installing it and lets have some more photos when you are ready.

You have a pm.

Cheers

Mike


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## Karl (8 Mar 2010)

Managed to get the fence rails connected (after a bit of metal butchery :shock: )






The standard rails were just far too long for my 'shop - they gave a rip capacity of 1300mm to the right of the blade. Chopping them down has reduced this to 620mm. If I ever get a larger workshop then it'll be a straightforward job to replace the rails with longer ones (it's just angle iron and box section).

I also got the RH extension table attached, but I don't think i'll have the space to attach the LH table, which is a shame. I'll just have to see how I get on with it.

A pic of the saw in its working position






And in its stored position






Got the power connected up and fired it up. 8) I also managed to get the table aligned to the blade. 

I've got the kids now, so won't get chance to do any more until after bed time. 

More pics later.

Cheers

Karl


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## TrimTheKing (8 Mar 2010)

Nice lump of metal mate. Any choppage taken place yet? That top looks too shiny to have had any sawdust on it yet


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## Waka (8 Mar 2010)

Karl

I think it's disgusting that you picked the saw up for £700.00, and even more disgusting that you're posting it :lol: :lol: 

I can assure you that you won't be disappointed. I'm not sure whether they modified the crown guard since I got mine, but I think that's a failure on this and other Woodford TS. I eventually went for the gubbins they sell at Axminster which incorporates dust extraction as well. Mind you it's easy to make one yourself.


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## OPJ (8 Mar 2010)

Looks like a real bargain, Karl - not to mention a squeeze to get it in your 'shop! :wink:

Have you seen the Tablesaw Turntable that MarkW (WellsWood) made in the Jigs forum? It might be of benefit to you.


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## Mike.C (8 Mar 2010)

Waka":2nyth3zp said:


> Karl
> 
> I think it's disgusting that you picked the saw up for £700.00, and even more disgusting that you're posting it :lol: :lol:
> 
> I can assure you that you won't be disappointed. I'm not sure whether they modified the crown guard since I got mine, but I think that's a failure on this and other Woodford TS. I eventually went for the gubbins they sell at Axminster which incorporates dust extraction as well. Mind you it's easy to make one yourself.



The Axminster one costs £100+, but as Waka said you can make your own which is exactly like his Lordship did in this link, and an excellent job at that. https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/impr ... ight=table improvements 

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... =1&jump=44

Personally the only change I am going to make is a wider crown guard, more like the Axminster one because I think it will help the dust extraction pickup more dust. 





The Axminster one




Lord Nibbo's

Cheers

Mike


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## Paul Chapman (8 Mar 2010)

Very nice, Karl 8) 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## head clansman (8 Mar 2010)

hi karl 

I have the axminster dust extractor over head guard fitted to my sip 01332 it work fine with no problems at all see link.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/tabl ... 36167.html

unfortunately it right at the end of that thread . 

I do like your saw it's real shame you had to start cutting it down in size , real good price , I bought second hand from axminster as well got a real good bargain there last year when i bought one of there band saw mint condition £400 it was less than half price. hc :wink: :lol:


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## 9fingers (8 Mar 2010)

Don't worry about taking the hacksaw to it. You are not the first to do so!!






Bob


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## Karl (8 Mar 2010)

You guys are genius.

I recalled seeing one of those extraction accessories in the 'shop when I picked up the saw. So a quick phone call to the seller.

"yeah, got one of those"

"are you interested in selling it"

"yeah, £30 and its yours"

"see you in an hour!"

Up and down the M6 and here it is






 

Now just to work out how to put it together!

Cheers

Karl


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## head clansman (8 Mar 2010)

hi karl 

you jammy pipper £30  hc


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## wizer (8 Mar 2010)

Karl I'm not sure if I like you very much any more... :lol:


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## jedmc571 (8 Mar 2010)

Nice haul mate :wink: 

What else are they selling?

Cheers

Jed


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## Karl (9 Mar 2010)

Trim - no cuts yet, i'm still trying to get it set up right. The top is shiny cos i've webraxed the scum off the top (not that there was much to start with) and give it a coat of wax.

Waka - I think the DX is the only thing which will let this saw down. As you say though, that can be sorted with the addition of an alternative guard.

Olly - I have seen Marks turntable design. Unfortunately it's no good for my application as the saw has to be butted up against a wall, so no room for spinning.

Martin & Bob - cutting the rails down doesn't really concern me - they're easily replaced when I have more space.

Tom -  

Jed - they had got rid of the last things today. There wasn't much to start with, it was only a small shop.

I'm not sure that this combined guarding/DX system is going to work for my set-up. I didn't realise that the DX hose attaches on the horizontal pipe - in my set-up that pipe would be butted up against a wall. But i'm going to have a look at it later on and see what I can come up with.

Cheers

Karl


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## Waka (9 Mar 2010)

Karl
I'll take some pic's and post later in the day of my setup regarding DX for the saw, you might get an idea or two.


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## head clansman (9 Mar 2010)

hi karl 

don't know if your aware but the dx system can be hung upside down from the ceiling as well by using the stanchion pole in reverse if thats of any help to you , if you do decide to go that way i do have the destruction that came with mine if there of any help to you just pm me and I'll get them scanned for you and e-mailed. hc


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## Karl (9 Mar 2010)

Martin/Waka - that'd be great. 

Martin - i'll PM you my e-mail address.

Cheers

Karl


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## Steve Maskery (9 Mar 2010)

Karl
You got a bargain there, didn't you. Very nice. Looks like you are even more cramped than I am!
Cheers
Steve


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## TrimTheKing (9 Mar 2010)

Karl":2xusjykv said:


> I'm not sure that this combined guarding/DX system is going to work for my set-up. I didn't realise that the DX hose attaches on the horizontal pipe - in my set-up that pipe would be butted up against a wall. But i'm going to have a look at it later on and see what I can come up with.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Karl


If it doesn't work for you Karl then I might be interested in taking it off your hands. Let me know.


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## Waka (9 Mar 2010)

Karl

With regards to hanging it off the ceiling I might have the bits of kit that does this, not sure but I'll have a look later. If I do then you'd be welcome to it.


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## head clansman (9 Mar 2010)

hi karl 

don't think those i sent via e mail came out to good so i'll try here as i said if these don't either post me your address and i pop a paper copy in the post . hc 
























hope there ok .


ps just added this if you do go with the overhead idea where the boom meets the stanchion pole (tee section) add some extra large self tapper , theres a lot of weight in the boom and you don't want that dropping off.


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## Karl (9 Mar 2010)

Martin - thanks for that. 

Waka - I think I may have the ceiling bits in with what I picked up last night. I'm going to investigate tonight.

Anyway, onto more pressing matters. 

I have an issue with the riving knife on the saw. Basically, there is very little adjustment available, and the instruction manual is neither use nor ornament as it relates to an older model with a differing knife/guard system.

These first two pics show the blade at full height and then with the blade wound down until the knife drops below the surface of the table. As you can see, there is still about 15mm blade above the table, so if you were to use the blade at this height then there would be no riving knife protection.











Here's a couple of pics of the knife and the mounting block











To top it all the knife is bent - you may be able to see in this last shot that it is out of alignment with the top of the blade. 






So, what to do - any suggestions?

Cheers

Karl


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## Steve Maskery (9 Mar 2010)

Well that riving knife would be rubbish even if it were not bent. That open slot will not prevent the crown guard from being ejected if I large chunk of wood hit it hard enough,

I love my Excalibur but the guarding is not its best feature. I junked mine, made a new riving knife out of mild steel, which is OK but not excellent. I've just taken delivery of some gauge plate (Thanks, Bob!) to make another, and I have a couple of different kinds of guard (you've seen them, I think) which is a much better solution than what comes as standard.

Remember that this otherwise excellent saw is not CE rated (at least, mine isn't - maybe things have changed), so you have to live with its deficiencies. It's built like a tank though, so it's worth spending some time and effort dealing with its few shortcomings.

HTH
Steve


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## Karl (9 Mar 2010)

Steve - looks like i'll be making a new riving knife then!

Made a ripping fence today based (very loosely) on what i've seen of yours, see below






UTTJ either tomorrow or Thursday!

Cheers

Karl


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## Steve Maskery (9 Mar 2010)

=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>


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## Noel (9 Mar 2010)

Here's a proper manual for the overhead guard, marginally (!) better than what Axminster supply......
Personally I would forget about the turnbuckle support rods.

http://www.pennstateind.com/library/TSGUARD_ins.pdf


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## Karl (10 Mar 2010)

Thanks Noel - very useful. Looks like I do have the bits for ceiling mounting, which may be a better option in my case. 

Cheers

Karl


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## 9fingers (10 Mar 2010)

Karl,

The solution to the knife problem is to make a decent one from gauge plate.

The one supplied seems to be made from high tensile liquorice to me.

If you want to know about sources for gauge plate (aka Ground Flat Stock) then drop me a PM.

Bob


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## Woody Alan (10 Mar 2010)

Karl, In the meantime, I assume the riving knife hasn't got an actual "bend" as in a crease? I'm guessing what happened is someone gave the guard a clout with a hefty lump of wood. As you are going to change it anyway, get a large adjustable spanner and adjust the flats to fit the riving knife. You are going to use it as a tensioning lever. Simply twist the knife in the direction you want to straighten it. You'll need to twist it past the point of where you want it, so some experimentation is required. If you take it steady you'll get there and if you do over egg it you can twist it back. Once it's in alignment you may have to vertically adjust it too using the same method, sounds crude but remember they tension saw blades with a hammer  
Alan.


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## Karl (10 Mar 2010)

Woody - i'm going to take the knife off again tonight and try to straighten it out.

Bob - i'll do some digging around and PM you if i'm unsuccesful in my search.

It looks like the Axminster guard isn't going to be suitable after all  I could mount it from the ceiling, but as the t/s doesn't always sit in one position, it won't really work for my set-up. Looks like Trim got lucky!

Now, do others use the 4" dx port at the bottom of the machine? It doesn't really seem to work that well - there is a big cavity between the port and the blade, and I don't think that any extractor would generate enought "suck" to gather dust effectively from that distance (for non Xcalibur owners, the d/x port is at the very bootom of the machine, next to the floor).

I get the feeling that if a blade guard were manufactured with a dust port over the blade (a SUVA style similair to that made by SM), then DX would be greatly improved, and I don't see that you'd need the DX at the bottom of the machine. It'd also solve the problem of the poor guarding on the saw.

Opinions?

Cheers

Karl


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## Woody Alan (10 Mar 2010)

Karl. I think I'd do it (read did do it) in situ, you can see what you're aiming for and it's as well anchored in it's place as anywhere.

Alan


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## 9fingers (10 Mar 2010)

Karl":eorynr07 said:


> Woody - i'm going to take the knife off again tonight and try to straighten it out.
> 
> Bob - i'll do some digging around and PM you if i'm unsuccesful in my search.
> 
> ...



I don't have any real problems with DX on my xcalibur. The shop has a 110mm ducted DX running off a 3hp homebrew cyclone. 14" blower 6" inlet/outlet running at 2850 rpm. No idea on the suction parameters achieved.

http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n313 ... i_0217.flv

There is always a bit of dust left in the bottom but I don't always turn the DX on for small jobs either. I tend to find if the suction is on then dust does not hit the bottom before being sucked out. I brush out the corners when I change blades.
I keep meaning to devise some arrangement of bristles to close the quadrant around the blade height adjuster but that is in the too hard pile at the moment.
I don't use any crown guard extraction- more trouble than it is worth.

hth

Bob


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## head clansman (10 Mar 2010)

hi karl 

look up the turn table thread in the jigs forum , i fitted an extension arm to my turn table with a caster underneath it so the extractor turns with the saw, simples . hc


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## Karl (10 Mar 2010)

Martin - I don't have the room for a turntable base - the saw has to be butted up against a wall in my small 'shop, so no room to turn it. Otherwise i'd definitely have been building one.

Cheers

Karl


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