# traditional jig for holding doors



## thetyreman (2 Mar 2022)

somewhere I've seen it, the thing is a notch cut out of 4 x 2 and you use two wedges to hold the door in place whilst you install hinges or plane the edge, what is it called? and does anyone have a reference for making one. I think jacob had a photo of it so would appreciate any tips, I am currently fitting a firedoor and could do with one to hold it in place whilst I work on it. 

regards,

Ben.


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## Ttrees (2 Mar 2022)

Sorry Ben, can't recall what that particular birdsmouth arrangement is called, but a big clamp and a few offcuts would likely be as good.

Tom


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## Doug71 (3 Mar 2022)

Think I still have one I made somewhere in the workshop, will post a pic tomorrow if I find it.

You only need one wedge as you cut one side of the notch the same angle as the wedge if that makes sense.

These things are infinitely better though and worth every penny, don't know why they sell them in pairs as you only need one.









Magic Gripper Door Clamp (pair) With Dial Adjustment, RZRRMG2 at D&M Tools


The New Patented Magic Gripper Pro Adjustable Gravity Clamp NEW for 2014 This is a simple but effective British invention is very simple to set up and uses gravity and the weight of the product to create grip. With new body shape makes the new gripper stonger and stable with the anti




www.dm-tools.co.uk


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## Woodwoodpecka (3 Mar 2022)

Hi Ben,

Think this is what you’re after…









DIY Door Saddle and Block - handy helper when hanging doors


Use this easy to make Door saddle and block to act like another pair of hands when hanging internal & external doors. It holds the door firmly in place while you work and off the dirty ground to avoid damaging the edge..



www.carpentry-tips-and-tricks.com





I ended up buying the Magic Gripper clamps instead after a recommendation and they are really good  

Cheers, Dave


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## thetyreman (3 Mar 2022)

Woodwoodpecka said:


> Hi Ben,
> 
> Think this is what you’re after…
> 
> ...



that's it! thanks dave.


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## Doug71 (3 Mar 2022)

Sounds like you are sorted but here is a photo of what I used to use.


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## DBC (3 Mar 2022)

Always a few of these in the van


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## Jacob (3 Mar 2022)

Not exactly a "traditional" jig it's just as useful now as it ever was! If you haven't got one you can knock one up on site in a few minutes. Better with two, for door fitting etc. 
Planed faces and a long shallow angle wedge is tighter and less likely to leave a mark on the workpiece. Best to leave a square end on the pointy end so you can tap it out.
Can be clamped to saw-stools for holding a board for edge planing, etc


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## thetyreman (3 Mar 2022)

I'm going to make a couple of them tomorrow, thanks for the tips everyone, I've been enjoying fitting this door, it is very satisfying.


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## Bingy man (3 Mar 2022)

As a amateur woodworker I struggled with this issue over the years -especially with fire doors and hardwood exterior doors . last year with 8 internal doors to hang the cust went out and purchased a trend door stand as he saw the struggle I had - I’ve not looked back since , had 5 fire doors to hang recently and got a second one . Not a traditional fix but they work well , a couple of shims to protect softer/ hollow doors is all you need. They will accept doors up to 55mm approx.


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## Linwoodjoinery (4 Mar 2022)

The Trend one is superb. When someone showed it me I laughed at it. I’d managed 20 years without it. I wouldn’t hang a door without it now.


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## Linwoodjoinery (4 Mar 2022)

D/STAND/A - Trend Door Stand - Secures Doors Vertically Or Horizontally


Trend Door Stand - Secures Doors Vertically Or Horizontally




www.trend-uk.com


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## Jacob (4 Mar 2022)

It's the age old gadget issue!
The DIY wooden one is free (scrap wood), quicker to set up and sturdier in use. Bigger surface area means less likely to leave a mark.
You can easily bodge one to hold vertically - using a bit of ply for the base and adding wedgy bits.


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## hlvd (4 Mar 2022)

thetyreman said:


> somewhere I've seen it, the thing is a notch cut out of 4 x 2 and you use two wedges to hold the door in place whilst you install hinges or plane the edge, what is it called? and does anyone have a reference for making one. I think jacob had a photo of it so would appreciate any tips, I am currently fitting a firedoor and could do with one to hold it in place whilst I work on it.
> 
> regards,
> 
> Ben.


I’ve got one I made years ago, but stole the idea from the 62 year old joiner I was working with as a 17 year old apprentice.

It’s made out of a length of 4”x2” with a notch for the door to sit in. The notch’s shoulders are square one side and tapered the other. You only need one wedge with a matching taper.
The bottom of the 4”x2” has the underside relived so that only the outer 3” touch the floor for stability.
I’ve used it for every door I’ve hung since, an invaluable tool.


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## Jacob (4 Mar 2022)

Here's mine in action on a very dusty old door! One will do, two is better.


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## Pedronicus (4 Mar 2022)

I feel a quick weekend build coming on!


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## deema (4 Mar 2022)

There Is an autogrip door holder you can make. If you take a piece of say 12mm ply, about 300mm long, glue at either end small square pieces of the same ply, to make feet. Now on the opposite side to the feet screw in two blocks of wood 1 or 2 mm wider than the door you want to grip ti create jamb blocks. Your now good to go. As you drop the door into the jamb created by the blocks of wood the ply bends and causes them to grip the door. As you lift the door out the ply springs back and releases the door. It’s what I use, just make one when needed.


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## johnnyb (4 Mar 2022)

hit the wedge to clamp hit the jack to unclamp. seems daft to buy one but if it a better I suppose maybe. when first got into speedy door fitting I liked vix bits but they tend to snap so now just use a drill( the vix bits are good on 4 inch hinges though) a wedge is useful nay essential when your hanging heavy doors so always have one with the traditional one.


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## Doug71 (4 Mar 2022)

Once you use the gripper type you will never use any other, they are just so simple. You lay the door in and it holds it then lift the door up and it releases it, no wedging, no tightening things, you really appreciate them if you have been hanging fire doors all day..


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## hlvd (4 Mar 2022)

Doug71 said:


> Once you use the gripper type you will never use any other, they are just so simple. You lay the door in and it holds it then lift the door up and it releases it, no wedging, no tightening things, you really appreciate them if you have been hanging fire doors all day..


I usually put the end of my block against the door casing when I’m planning so it doesn’t move forward, how well does the Trend version resist forward thrust?


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## Bingy man (4 Mar 2022)

hlvd said:


> I usually put the end of my block against the door casing when I’m planning so it doesn’t move forward, how well does the Trend version resist forward thrust?


The trend has rubber feet on its base ,, also I found that 2 work best with heavy doors and at least the door is level for planing but I’ve not had any issues with it slipping forward using electric planer or handheld traditional planes -I would however use a non slip mat or dust sheet on laminated or polished flooring. Approx 25 doors used of various weights.


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## mikej460 (4 Mar 2022)

I made one out of lengths of reclaimed 2 x 3s two long lengths a door width apart screwed into 2 cross pieces at each end. The door just jammed in whilst I chopped out for locks and hinges and it worked a treat.


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## robotmannick (5 Mar 2022)

I've always just used sash cramps laid on the floor.


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## hlvd (5 Mar 2022)

robotmannick said:


> I've always just used sash cramps laid on the floor.


Things have changed a lot over the years, you’d be working for a firm and have your bag, saw horse, level and that was it, the firm supplied your power tools and anything extra had to be light and small enough to carry around, hence why these door blocks were singular and made out of a length of 4”x2”.
These days joiners are mostly self employed and have a whole van full of tools, so storage and lightness isn’t the problem it used to be.


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## fixit45 (5 Mar 2022)

Doug71 said:


> Once you use the gripper type you will never use any other, they are just so simple. You lay the door in and it holds it then lift the door up and it releases it, no wedging, no tightening things, you really appreciate them if you have been hanging fire doors all day..


I agree with you. When you have several doors a day to fit and work on, anything that reduces the actions you have to make is a bonus and less tiring.


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## thetyreman (5 Mar 2022)

I ended up making one, works very well and was dead easy to make, used hardwood for the wedges, thanks for the pics and tips.


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## johnnyb (5 Mar 2022)

I've found as I've got older I've found I seem to have doubled my speed putting locks and handles on. hanging the doors with decent gaps still takes me ages. I seem to have become fussier than I used to be! them blooming slabby oak doors are stupid heavy though.


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## johnnyb (5 Mar 2022)

I fitted 10 of them slabby doors but I had to make on as it was on 70 inch high. made from solid euro oak and veneered mdf. it was lovely and light


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## johnnyb (5 Mar 2022)

I had to spray and replace all the arcs as well. I used a good technique to keep everything nicely joined. I cut them accurately then stuck them up using superglue and activator. then nailed them on.it did leave a few gaps occasionally but they were caulker and it worked really well. any one else do that?


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## johnnyb (5 Mar 2022)

ps is anything nicer than hanging doors in frames you've done.


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## Lightning bolt (5 Mar 2022)

Doug71 said:


> Sounds like you are sorted but here is a photo of what I used to use.
> 
> View attachment 130837
> 
> ...


Have 2 of these I use, also have a little block the same thickness as a regular door & the same height as the bottom of the notch. This is held in the notch with the wedge when not in use. When in use it keeps the other end of the door up off the floor...great simple inventions & no plastic in this age of awareness...oh & free..


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## Bingy man (5 Mar 2022)

johnnyb said:


> ps is anything nicer than hanging doors in frames you've done.


I’ve only ever fitted a few frames/ doors. most of my doors are fitted in x council houses and flats where multiple doors have been fitted until the frame no longer supports the hinges and often require repairs prior to hanging new doors . The repair often takes longer than hanging doors . Twisted and out of square frames-oh the joys


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## thetyreman (5 Mar 2022)

Bingy man said:


> I’ve only ever fitted a few frames/ doors. most of my doors are fitted in x council houses and flats where multiple doors have been fitted until the frame no longer supports the hinges and often require repairs prior to hanging new doors . The repair often takes longer than hanging doors . Twisted and out of square frames-oh the joys



I spend 2 days perfecting the shims needed to make the frame dead square and straight, so can relate, that was way more time consuming than adding the hinging will be, but will be worth it.


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## Bingy man (6 Mar 2022)

thetyreman said:


> I spend 2 days perfecting the shims needed to make the frame dead square and straight, so can relate, that was way more time consuming than adding the hinging will be, but will be worth it.


Absolutely agree but unfortunately most of my customers don’t recognise a badly fitted door and therefore won’t pay for extensive repairs so I make sure it will stay hung and looks decent for my own pride . Hate having to walk away sometimes but only so much you can do given what customer is prepared to spend and how much time you need to put into the job .


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## HamsterJam (6 Mar 2022)

I don’t do this for a living but did hang a few doors in a previous house. I just stood them on a couple of slips to protect the edge and clamped one end in a B&D Workmate.


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## johnnyb (6 Mar 2022)

I went through a phase when it was the only work coming in and I convinced myself I could make a living if I could speed up. I honed it so I went from 3 a day to 7 or 8. now I try and limit this activity to the better paid variety. I charge considerably more for oak and a full day for an exterior.


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## Bingy man (6 Mar 2022)

johnnyb said:


> I went through a phase when it was the only work coming in and I convinced myself I could make a living if I could speed up. I honed it so I went from 3 a day to 7 or 8. now I try and limit this activity to the better paid variety. I charge considerably more for oak and a full day for an exterior.


Gee whiz 8 per day is motoring- you must of been going flat out -agree with your pricing tho fair play


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## Phill05 (6 Mar 2022)

This is what i used Elu Super jaws it is so versatile and folds up to transport.


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