# Planer thicknesser setup and thoughts - Startrite SD310



## OJ (9 Apr 2007)

Hello all,

I’ve been lucky enough to find a little used Startrite SD 310 planer thicknesser. My guess it’s from an educational setting as it’s had a key switch fitted and is in such good nick. It had been greased and then left to sit whilst lots of dust glued itself to the thing. It’s cleaned up well and everything turns well.
Rigged up a temporary supply to measure start current, which came out at just over 5A per phase, whilst it runs at about 3A per phase. I can now size the cable and breaker 

Here it is:





Inevitably, there are a few bits left over in the box.
Reading the thread of users’ planer thicknessers, it seems that not many of us have one at the moment, but a few have worked on them in the past. I’m hoping that I can jog some memories of the general arrangement of the fencing and extraction for this machine.

Sucking:
The extraction hood that normally sits down by the thicknessing table adjustment wheel and then flips up to sit over the cutter block whilst thicknessing is most obvious. There is an arrangement of hex bolt, light pattern washer, heavy pattern washer, spring and cap head at the other end of the shaft. Can anyone remember/go look in the workshop/have an exploded diagram of this assembly? There are too many possible arrangements and I think that there should be a second spring.





The other two extraction hoods I can only really guess at where they go, but presumably are in place when planing rather than thicknessing?

Fencing:
The fence seems ok, but it’s been partially milled underneath so that it will hug the infeed table a little closer. You can just see the little step in it. When this step approaches the cutter, the fence is too far forward for my taste. 
What are forum users’ preferences as to the amount of fence before and after the cutter?
Tapped into the top of the fence is a pillar which supports a set of hardwood guides. I think that these may be borrowded from the combination version of this machine, but can’t be sure. The position of this can’t be moved relative to the fence, so the position of the fence may be a compromise. Where is the most valuable position for the guides relative to the cutter? Just in front, partially over the cutter?









Even though this machine has had light use, I still need some spares. Has anyone got a manual for sale or know where I can get one? I’ve bought the one covering the combination machine into which this planer was incorporated, but to be honest, it has very little in common. The belt will not tighten anymore and to be honest, I’m not sure that it matches the “V” profile of the pulleys very well anyway. One bearing needs replacing.

I would be very grateful for any help, anecdotes, information about this machine.
Many thanks all, OJ


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## Jake (9 Apr 2007)

The 'guards' want to be over the outfeed table, given that is your reference surface - which fits with the fence design.


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## DaveL (9 Apr 2007)

Hi OJ, 

I think the fence needs to be moved towards the outfeed end of the machine. The step in the bottom edge is usually just before the cutter block, yours looks ~8" before it. This would put the guides as you call them over the out feed table, which is were the pressure should be. 
I think those guides may be from a small spindle moulder. 

You need Scrit to see if he has any old details for this machine in his collection of books and flyers.


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## Scrit (10 Apr 2007)

Hi OJ

I've owned one of these so I'll give you the best I can from memory.



OJ":1sice5rk said:


> Sucking:
> The extraction hood that normally sits down by the thicknessing table adjustment wheel and then flips up to sit over the cutter block whilst thicknessing is most obvious. There is an arrangement of hex bolt, light pattern washer, heavy pattern washer, spring and cap head at the other end of the shaft. Can anyone remember/go look in the workshop/have an exploded diagram of this assembly? There are too many possible arrangements and I think that there should be a second spring.


There should be a ball knob to one side of the planer outfeed bed which is pulled out and the table flipped up through about 120 degrees to thickness. At that end of the frame (the end with the thicknesser depth adjustment handwheel) a steel bar runs across the frame, fairly high up with the yellow chip deflector fitted to it. The spring should be to the right as you look at the handwheel and the deflector assembly is pulled against the spring and pivoted up and over. As the pressure against the spring is released it will sit in position, however they do have a tendency to rattle in use...... There should only be ONE spring.

The other extraction hood presumably sits on the thicknesser bed during planing. It is not original



OJ":1sice5rk said:


> Fencing:
> The fence seems ok, but it’s been partially milled underneath so that it will hug the infeed table a little closer. You can just see the little step in it. When this step approaches the cutter, the fence is too far forward for my taste.


As originally supplied the fence support would have been around half way down the length of the fence so I wonder if yours has been moved. The "chewed" appearance along the bottom of the fence is quite normal on older machines with ally fences, I'm afraid, although it can be tidied up by sawing a small strip off the bottom of the fence on the table saw (fine tooth ATB will do the job - go slowly)

The Shaw guards (spring pressure guards) were supplied to allow the machine to do rebating "safely". They are not borrowed, but were originally offered as an option and the fences of every SD310 you'll ever see has three holes bored in the top to accommodate them. These guards (not guides) should be *directly over the cutterblock* (just like they would be on a spindle moulder) and not over the outfeed table alone otherwise you'll get no protection from them and you'll find the front of the work will snipe unduly. There is an example of this on the HSE website, together with a good basic text on safe operation of planer/thicknessers. I'm surprised that these have been made illegal on an ex-Educational machine (and also that there is no DC brake module, but maybe the machine runs down in 10 or less seconds)



OJ":1sice5rk said:


> Even though this machine has had light use, I still need some spares. Has anyone got a manual for sale or know where I can get one?


Spares are no longer available. Startrite's name was sold to Record (now Record Power Tools in Sheffield) together with the designs of the woodworking band saws and drill presses some years ago (Clausing got the metalworking band saw designs), but the Robland stuff didn't go with that move - so no spares there. A company called Wilson Brothers took over the Robland importation for a while but they wouldn't handle spares on this model some 7 or 8 years ago when I had a similar problem, and Robland in Belgium no longer supply spares, either, I'm afraid. So the answer is that you are on your own. That said, I run much older stuff than this from manufacturers now long defunct without problems - you just learn to be a lot more innovative!



OJ":1sice5rk said:


> The belt will not tighten anymore and to be honest, I’m not sure that it matches the “V” profile of the pulleys very well anyway. One bearing needs replacing.


The belt has probably stretched beyond its useable capacity so you'll need to replace it - they don't go on for ever. The belt is a standard V-belt design - nothing special - just make sure that all the pulleys are in alignment. An industrial belt and bearing place, or agricultural machinery merchant should be able to help you with a replacement. As far as I am aware none of the bearings are specials so again a bearings merchant should be able to supply replacements.

The one thing which does go on them is the cutter block jack screws. These have a very fine thread (M10 x 0.75 or 1.0mm or the like) so when they get chewed up you'll need to buy a die and get a local engineering firm to make you a set of four out of silver steel rod (6 jack screws on the 3-cutter version) and don't forget to get them hardened before you install them

Scrit


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## OJ (10 Apr 2007)

Thank you to everyone.
I thought that there may be a difference of opinion with regard to the shaw guards. Looks like it had been out of its correct position for some time. Now set at half and half, which puts the guards right on the money. Extractor hood now assembled - many thanks Scrit. This machine is like the morris minor/mini/A40 of the P/T world, in that everyone seems to have had one once but not anymore.
It's disapointing regarding the spares, but I'm sure most things can be fixed, remade or substituted. Buying new doesn't guarantee a spares supply either mind you. I bought the Scheppach TS2000 table saw on a shoestring with a view to expanding it, much to the dealer's delight as it's not the cheapest way to do it. Before the guarantee had run out (10 months) all of the spares and accessories had been sucked off the face of the earth. If anyone knows of an SD310 going for spares, please let me know. (Or TS2000 bits for that matter!)
I'll post the source of substituted parts (bearings, belts etc) as and when I find them so others can do the same.
Scrit - any thoughts on literature?
Thanks again, OJ


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## JJ (30 May 2007)

Hi OJ
Very interesting thread as I have just seen a SD310 for sale but it seems rather expensive & has no guards or extras at all. 
I was wondering how much you paid for yours. 
Also how heavy is it?
JJ


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## Newbie_Neil (31 May 2007)

Hi JJ

Welcome to the forum.

Cheers
Neil


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## OJ (31 May 2007)

Hello JJ,

At the risk of seeming evasive, I can't really say what I paid because it was part of a lot. Condition is what really matters to you and the amount of use or abuse. I have seen them advertised for as much as £1400 from machinery dealers. £800 or less should get you a good example). They are simple robust machines. The Shaw guards would be ok to retro mount. Does it have the fence and cutter cover? I managed to move mine with two people and a castored trolley, although not as a dead weight. Lift via straps underneath rather than pulling up on the tables. Consumables are not a problem so far.

If you go and see it again (or anyone else from memory) can you see if the cutter drive belt has any numbers on it and whether it is a full "V" profile or a cogged "V" ("V" with notches cut out on the underside). 

Many thanks and good luck. Feel free to PM me or ask openly on forum if you have any questions. 

OJ


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## JJ (31 May 2007)

Thanks for the welcome Neil & the useful reply OJ. 
I haven't been to see this one yet but will look it over it carefully. There is a fence but no guard I think. From other threads looks like the condition of the bolts which adjust/remove the blades is critical, & number of cutters, block type etc. Would it be easy to make up the extractor hoods? 
When I see it I will photo the drive V belt & check for any numbers.


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## OJ (2 Jun 2007)

Hi JJ,
Don't worry about the condition of the bolts, I'm making some, which you may have. Worry about the big stuff and shortages more. OJ


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## JJ (4 Jun 2007)

Had a look at that machine - it was a load of dung. Rusted, chips out of the bed, didn't plane true, bearings whining. I think it would have taken too long to set it up right. The belt was a standard V section, no notches, & here is a photo showing some numbers. 

 
So am still looking. 
JJ


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## OJ (4 Jun 2007)

Thanks JJ, that's great.
Keep looking!


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## steuart (27 Jan 2008)

I have a Startrite SD310. Generally it seems in OK condition. (for some reason I have a spare pully/drive cover if anyone needs one).

I need some advice. When you are sufacing there is a lever to disengage the thicknessing feeder. When it is engaged, there is a small pulley/wheel (about 3/4 inch) which drives a larger wheel (about 8 inches). Would one or other of these two wheels have had a rubber surface. eg like the main wheels on bandsaws? Mine currently runs metal to metal which I am sure is not good. Looking at previous threads it seems spares are not readily available - if the larger wheel should have a rubber surface, can this be re-rubbered?

I seem to have some play between the aluminium cutter block and the steel shaft running through it. However this play seemed to dissappear when I took out the cutter blades? Is this just coincidence? Can the aluminium block be tightened or loosened from the steel shaft?

Any suggestions for a supplier for second hand parts?

Thanks

Steuart


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## sawdustandwoodchips (16 Jun 2022)

does anyone have a manual for this machine?


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## MikeK (17 Jun 2022)

sawdustandwoodchips said:


> does anyone have a manual for this machine?



A.L.T. Saws and Spares in Gillingham has a library of manuals for many Startrite machines. The manual for the SD310 planer is available from their website. Scroll down and look in the "Drills Handbooks" section for the SD310.

www.altsawsandspares.co.uk/spares.html

Here is a direct link to the PDF:

SD310 Handbook


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## sawdustandwoodchips (12 Nov 2022)

MikeK said:


> A.L.T. Saws and Spares in Gillingham has a library of manuals for many Startrite machines. The manual for the SD310 planer is available from their website. Scroll down and look in the "Drills Handbooks" section for the SD310.
> 
> www.altsawsandspares.co.uk/spares.html
> 
> ...


many thanks!!


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