# New Member:- Matching old pine



## OldWood (2 Mar 2005)

I found this website by accident and am really impressed by it. I've possibly got part of the way to solving my problem but would like to get a bit further.

I'm in Scotland and have an old cottage. Access to part of the house is a long corridor with 6 bar and batten unfinished pine doors - these are all old and a nice 'honey' colour. The plasterwork in this corridor has had to be replaced and new skirtings and door facings are required. I'm looking for advice on getting a passible match with the existing doors. 

I see from some posts that getting a reasonable stain match with pine is not easy. It will depend on the pine I use and it would be interesting to know what is recommended - I'm not a great fan of the 'bog-standard' red pine and wonder whether I would be best to look for something with a low knot count. 

Ironically I found a very good match to the finish I'm looking for 6 months ago in a hostel in Ullapool where all the timber facings,etc. were almost knot free and near enough the colour I want.

Rob


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## Newbie_Neil (2 Mar 2005)

Hi Rob

Welcome to the forum.

I'm sure someone will be along to help soon.

Cheers
Neil


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## Philly (3 Mar 2005)

Hi Oldwood
Welcome!
How about trying some douglas fir? That is pretty much knot free-my local timber merchant sells it quartersawn with super straight vertical grain.
As to colour matching-tough one... Pine changes colour quickly in the sun-maybe make your project then give it a day in the sun before attempting to stain it? It will give you a n idea of it true colour?
Hope this is of help
Philly


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## Aragorn (3 Mar 2005)

Hi and welcome to the forum!
Matching old pine with new isn't really do-able because it's not just about colour.
You _can _get a good match with the colour - I use Morrells spirit based stains, and mix up a blend of Light Walnut, Red or Green (depending on the tone of the pine), diluted with meths and lots of experimenting to match the colour (sometimes a splash of oak or black too).
It is important to finish (sanding) your experimental pieces to the same quality as you are going to finish your main pieces, as the coarseness of the finish affects stain take-up. Also, you need to apply a coat of whatever finish you are using when colour matching, as this will change the colour slightly.

The problem is that the grain in new pine has a translucent quality that isn't there with old pine, and I've never heard of any good method for disguising this. So, even with a perfect colour match, it still looks like stained new pine.
For an authentic look, it might be worth considering using reclaimed pine where possible, as this can usually be made to fit in very well with existing stuff.

Good luck!


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## Adam (3 Mar 2005)

I've made some pine furniture in the past, when I first varnished it, it was very very "white" still, over a couple of years, it has changed to a much warmer "honey" colour as you describe. 

I'd think you may need to make it several shades too "light" to allow it to naturally darken to its stable colour?

Welcome BTW!

Adam


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## devonwoody (3 Mar 2005)

My suggestion

Dont turn the lights on in the hall :idea: :idea: :idea: :idea:


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## OldWood (3 Mar 2005)

Many thanks everyone - better response in one evening than anywhere else I have tried.

Fortunately this is a north facing corridor so darkening with sun is going to be a non-problem.

I've seen the suggestion of using reclaimed wood in your archives here but although that might match the wood type, the very processing of it is going to remove the naturally oxidised surface and I'm no further forward. I had to fit a cat flap in the back door and was suprised how pink the wood was inside for instance. I will however go and see what is available and then invest in some of the stain materials suggested.

Thanks

Rob


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## norman (3 Mar 2005)

Hi

one trick that sometimes works is a light wash with caustic to age the wood, let dry before you start with the colour match.

welcome by the way
Norman


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