# Sea Eagle Intarsia - WIP



## linkshouse (7 Apr 2017)

I thought it best to start a new thread for this - hope no-one minds.

This may well end up being quite a long WIP as I hope to show as much detail as possible. My initial work is at the computer and it is worth spending quite a bit of time here as any corrections/adjustments here are much easier than once you're in the workshop cutting wood.

I have been working in Photoshop laying down paths over the photo using the pen tool.

I find it is easier to reduce the opacity of the photo that I am working on first so that the paths are easier to see.

Here is a screenshot of the paths overlaid on the photo, they are bit hard to see here in black and as we are looking at the actual paths they are only one pixel wide.






The pen tool can take a bit of getting used to but it is worth the effort. To start with I just lay down the paths fairly roughly without trying too hard to get them right. Then I go over the paths using the direct selection tool (white arrow) to select and correct the individual points. The best tip that I can give here is to try and manage with as few path points as possible as it will make your curves smoother and ultimately easier to cut once you get to the scroll saw.

Next I turned off the photo layer and zoomed right in so that I could go over the paths in detail tidying up any ends that didn't meet each other properly.





After the paths were all tidied up I created a new layer above the photo layer and filled the background with white.

Then I select the brush tool and set the brush to a simple round brush with a thickness of 3 pixels and hardness set to 100%. I prefer my patterns in red so I set the pen colour to red.

Next, make sure that your new layer is selected in the layer palette (I rename my layers to keep track of them).





In the Paths palette make sure that your path layer is selected and then click on Stroke to stroke your layer with the red 3px brush.





Deselect the path in the Paths palette then change back to the the Layers palette and you should have a cut path as below.






This is where I am up to so far.

Next job is to number the pieces, add grain direction lines and decide what shade each piece will be.

This all seems a lot of work for a pattern that is for personal use but as I mentioned at the start of this post a bit of extra work here can make life much easier and less prone to mistakes when you get into the workshop.

Sorry this has been so long and I hope that it is of interest.

Regards

Phill


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## donwatson (7 Apr 2017)

Impressive stuff Phill, many thanks for this.
I use Linux OS and the free Gimp and Inkscape programmes so I will be following this very closely with an eye to copying if you don't mind.

take care
Don W


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## linkshouse (7 Apr 2017)

donwatson":25uf31d0 said:


> Impressive stuff Phill, many thanks for this.
> I use Linux OS and the free Gimp and Inkscape programmes so I will be following this very closely with an eye to copying if you don't mind.
> 
> take care
> Don W



Not at all Don.

I'm sure the same broad principles will transfer from Photoshop to Gimp.

Phill


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## Claymore (7 Apr 2017)

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## linkshouse (7 Apr 2017)

The pen tool I'm referring to is one of the drawing tools in Photoshop and is used to draw vector paths using line and bezier curves.

Once the path has been laid down individual pints can be edited using the arrow (direct selection tool).

I don't have Corel Draw unfortunately so can't point to the equivalents but I am sure they will exist.

I have finished the pattern now, and will finish off the pattern making part of the right up tomorrow morning (I'm a morning person)

I printed off sections of the pattern on A3 paper this afternoon and sellotaped them all together and must confess to being a bit aghast at just how big it has worked out. I knew the dimensions of course but seeing it printed still came as a bit of a shock.

You mentioned using 1/2 plywood for the backing board, do you think 12mm MDF would be any good. The overall size of the pattern is around 4' x 3'


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## Claymore (7 Apr 2017)

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## linkshouse (7 Apr 2017)

Claymore":dzbl8qjy said:


> Hi Phill,
> I will have a look in my Coreldraw manual and see if they are similar. :lol: ya think 4ft's big you should have had to lug my sodding giant kite it was 84" wide and mounted on an 8' x 4' sheet of plywood so the 12mm mdf will be perfect...make sure you use glue AND screws to fasten it on as the screws help to stop any flexing and warping.
> Cheers
> Brian



Are you saying to screw the individual intarsia pieces to the backing board?

Phill


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## Claymore (7 Apr 2017)

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## Claymore (7 Apr 2017)

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## AES (7 Apr 2017)

First off Phill, thanks VERY much for taking the trouble to post this. 

Second, please DON'T apologise for it being too long, it isn't! I have Photoshop (V5, I'm too tight to upgrade) and at the same time as buying the software some years back I also bought a book for it (".... for Dummies" or something, I forget the title). That book is pretty good, but your write up is BETTER, really.

It must have taken you some time, but as I'm just about to get started on some Intarsia, and only have Photoshop, no other software like Corel, etc, the time you've spent will certainly help me reduce my learning time considerably.

I have of course book marked this thread, thanks a lot - this is an excellent example of how helpful and self-LESS the people are here.

Looking forward to the next instalment.

AES

Edit for P.S. A question if I may Phill. I happen to have a small Wacom pen (which I haven't used yet). Would this be any better than using the software pen tool in Photoshop (which I have used a few times)? And I 2nd Brian's (Claymore's) comments about producing your own .pdf patterns for sale by download.

AES


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## linkshouse (8 Apr 2017)

@Brian and AES,

Selling Patterns: 
I agree about the US patterns. I really don't mind paying for them but object to paying more for postage than for the pattern. Kathy Wise has made some of her patterns available as downloadable PDF's and I have bought a few of these.

My Heelan Coo and Working Collie patterns are already available to buy on my website and I will no doubt add more as time goes on.

Photoshop Pen/Wacom:
Because of the naming I can see why one would get confused between the two but alas they are completely different.

I do have a Wacom pan and use it for sketching/painting in Photoshop (another of my hobbies - see below) but don't tend to use it for designing my Intarsia patterns as I find the mouse easier to use with the Photoshop pen tool.

The pen tool in Photoshop is a one of the tools from the tool palette and is used to add vector paths. The beauty of vector paths (for them as don't know) is that they can be resized without loss of quality. It is a very versatile tool but can take a bit of getting used to. As mentioned above I find it best not to be too precious about trying to be accurate when putting down the initial path with the pen tool. The go back and use the direct selection tool to pick and edit the individual points placed using the pen tool.

I was going to offer to add a separate post specifically on using the pen tool, but to be fair it really has nothing to do with woodworking or scroll sawing and there are lots of tutorials online so it might be best to look there. If there really is a desire here for me to write one I could perhaps put on my own website.

Sorry to anyone who might object to this digression from our main subject.

Here is a painting of a Cheetah that I did in Photoshop using my Wacom pen.


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## linkshouse (8 Apr 2017)

So, on with the WIP...

I left off having done the cutting pattern and still needed to sort out the number, shading and grain direction.

I'm a bit OCD and like to keep things tidy. In my defence it does help in the long run so...

With the Cut Lines layer active (you did rename your layers didn't you  ) use the magic wand tool to select all of the area outside your cut lines, then from the main menu select Select > Inverse to invert the selection to everything inside the cut lines - essentially just the pattern.

Now select the Photo layer and click on the mask option at the bottom of the layers palette.






This will mask the sea out of the photo -






On, to the grain lines...

In the layers palette select the top layer (should be the cut lines) then click on the small folder icon at the bottom of the palette to add a layer folder/group above the Cut Line layer. 






As you can see here I have done this and added a new folder which is called Group 1 (by default). Double click on the folder name to pop up a rename dialog and change the name to Grain (this is optional but I did say I was OCD!).

With your new Grain folder/group selected we can start adding the grain lines.

Select the line tool from the tools palette in the tool settings at the top of the screen set the fill and stroke colours to whatever colour you want your grain lines to be, then set the width to 1px (you'll probably need to type this value into the box) finally if you want arrow heads on the line ends click on the little gear icon and tick both the start and end boxes.






Now we can just work our way round the picture adding grain direction lines.

Here I have added the first one. It is worth double checking at this point that the grain line added has been put in the Grain folder/group that we created earlier -






All good so carry on adding grain direction lines, each one will appear as a new shape layer in the Grain folder. In my case I ended up with 173 grain lines/layers. 

We're done with the grain lines now so click on the down facing arrow to close up the group, now you see why we put the line into a group.






Okay, on to the numbers.

This is bit easier (description wise anyway).

Create another layer folder/group as we did for the grain lines. Rename this group Numbers.

With the Numbers folder/group selected pick the text tool from the tools palette and set the text size to 12pt and the colour to your desired colour. 






Now you can work your way round the image adding your piece numbers.

Phew! That was a bit longer description than I intended. 

Apologies to anyone that is going brain numb by now but I have found when writing tutorials/guides for my clients that they tend to prefer minute step by step detail. I hope that is the case here.

I was going to go on to describe adding the shading but I think this post is already long enough.

I'll do a separate post for this later today. Then we're done on the computer and can move into the workshop, Yay!


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## AES (8 Apr 2017)

Blimey Phill, I clearly have a LOT to learn about Photoshop!

 

AES


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## Claymore (8 Apr 2017)

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## linkshouse (8 Apr 2017)

Claymore":303m7qs3 said:


> Blimey Phill...........all i can say is one word SUPERB! what you have done here is everything and more what I have wanted to do but lacked the computer skills to do.
> The Cheetah is beautiful and that alone would make a great if very difficult Intarsia (hint hint  )
> I personally would buy your patterns as apart from liking the designs/quality they would help the likes of me out greatly as one of the main problems I am having health wise is co-ordination of my hands and struggle to actually hold a pen let alone draw anything decent nowadays :x considering it was my job for decades and could hand draw anything.......as many of you will have noticed I have been relying on adapting the patterns of Judy Gale Roberts and Kathy Wise and I am the first to say the quality of my work has dropped pretty drastically recently so buying your patterns would keep me going. I know what your saying about getting back to actually making the actual wooden projects and less time on the computer and agree you need to carry on making them but as we have said on here Phill you do have a natural talent for the computer side and it will always be an extra skill and money making skill for ya.
> Sorry for the long winded post but it really has impressed me along with Ruth who is VERY picky about design and full marks to ya! =D>
> ...



Thanks Brian, and Ruth  



> ps when you say your patterns can be resized to any size? can you make them so they will print out on multiple A4 sheets instead of needing a gert big printer? also will you be offering a service for custom designed patterns (at a higher cost of course) when you have a bit of spare time :wink: ? as I know someone who has quite a few ideas but sod all chance or skill to do them.
> Cheers now back to woodworking!



Sorry perhaps I was misleading. Photoshop is at heart a raster graphics program so the images (often photos are bitmaps) these cannot be willy nilly resized without loss of quality.

But, Photoshop also has limited vector graphics capabilities using the pen tool and shape layers. It is specifically these layers that van be resized without limitation. In my write up I was referring to the paths layer, once I get to the step where I "stroke" the path layer to create the cut line layer then the cut line layer is a raster graphic that has all the same resize limitations of a photo.

Hmm, are you lost yet :shock: 

Sorry, it is how it is. You need to know about the difference between raster and vector graphic or none of the above make sense.

Phill


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## linkshouse (8 Apr 2017)

Ever onwards with the actual WIP, we move onto shading.

We have our numbers and grain lines in place now we need to think about shading.

Of course you don't have to do this step and can just use your own judgement in the workshop and after my last reply to Brian regarding raster vs vector graphic, I should warn everyone that my next processes get a bit heavy and can be skipped if preferred.

Okey dokey, let's press on...

You may recall right back at the beginning that I reduced the opacity of the photo layer to make it easier to see the paths as I drew them.

For the next steps I will want to have this at full opacity so for future convenience rather than just turning the opacity back up I've created a copy of the photo layer and named it onion skin (a graphics design term for a semi transparent version). Then I turned the opacity back up to full on the photo layer.

Make sure that the photo layer is selected in the layer palette and then add a new adjustment layer by selecting from the main menu - Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Hue/Saturation. 






This will add a new layer above the photo layer. Click on this layer and a setting dialog should appear as shown below. Turn the saturation right down to zero to make the photo appear black and white. 






Next we'll add another adjustment layer to reduce the number of shade of grey. Again from the main menu select Layers > New Adjustment Layer > Posterize. This will add a new posterize layer above the hue/saturation layer. Click on the layer and again a setting box will be displayed. Use this setting box to set the number of shades that you want (I went with 5).






Select the Cut Lines layer and duplicate it, rename it shades.

With the Shades layer selected selected zoom in to show more detail and then select the Fill tool (paint bucket) from the tools palette.

Now you need to use your own judgement a bit to set the shade for each piece.

Move your mouse over a piece and alt click on what you consider to be the largest colour within that piece, this will set the paint bucket to his colour. Next left click within the piece to fill it with this colour.

Work your way through the rest of the pieces alt clicking to select the main colour then left clicking to fill it with that colour.

When you're done you should have something like this






That's it job done!

As I said at the start if this section, this may be a step too far for some and is definitely not necessary if you prefer to just select the wood you use based on the photo.

Phew! we've finally got there. Pattern finished and ready to move to the workshop.

Well more or less. In this case because the project is so big (well way bigger than my printer anyway) I need to print it off in lots and lots of sections. In Photoshop this is fairly easy as, in the print dialog you can set the print size to 100% then drag the visible image (letterbox view of the image) around and print bits of the image separately.

If you've stuck with me so far, thank you for reading.

Hopefully the workshop bit should bit a lighter reading.

Regards

Phill


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## Claymore (8 Apr 2017)

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## AES (8 Apr 2017)

I have little more to say Phill, except to say that my gob is well and truly smacked! I already "knew" that Photoshop is "powerful", but now - once again - your explanation is SO much clearer than my book.

Just as matter of interest, I assume that you're using the "professional" (= very expensive) version of PS, whereas mine is the "light" version (it's officially called "Photoshop Elements 5"). From the little (apart from photo tweaks for reports, etc) that I've done with it so far, it seems that all your steps in the above posts are there in my PS - they certainly look familiar anyway. So am I correct that when I do get round to "doctoring" my aeroplane picture I can follow your tutorial 1:1 with my PS version?

Once again, all the above work by your good self cannot have been a "5 minutes breeze through the park" so thanks for your efforts. Here's one who is VERY grateful to you.

=D> =D> =D> =D> 

AES


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## donwatson (8 Apr 2017)

Thanks for this Phill. You have put a lot of work in here.

Don W


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## linkshouse (9 Apr 2017)

AES":3k0dxlsf said:


> I have little more to say Phill, except to say that my gob is well and truly smacked! I already "knew" that Photoshop is "powerful", but now - once again - your explanation is SO much clearer than my book.
> 
> Just as matter of interest, I assume that you're using the "professional" (= very expensive) version of PS, whereas mine is the "light" version (it's officially called "Photoshop Elements 5"). From the little (apart from photo tweaks for reports, etc) that I've done with it so far, it seems that all your steps in the above posts are there in my PS - they certainly look familiar anyway. So am I correct that when I do get round to "doctoring" my aeroplane picture I can follow your tutorial 1:1 with my PS version?
> 
> ...



Thank you.

As to software version, yes I am using the latest version of Photoshop as I have the subscription version (Photoshop CC). This is the most cost effective for me as it is only £8.47 per month and guarantees that I am alway bang up to date.

I have never used Photoshop Elements but would have thought that it would have had pretty much all the same tools with the possible exception of the adjustment layers and, as per my write up, that sequence is optional anyway.

If you should run into any specific problems or have any queries feel free to either PM me or ask here and I'll help if I can. This goes for anyone else on this forum too of course. 

Phill


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## linkshouse (9 Apr 2017)

Hmm, little (well big actually) flea in the ointment!

It occurred to me during the process of developing this pattern that the image that I was using would of copyright protected.

With this in mind I located the original photographer and asked permission for it's use.

He has said that he has standard policy on this and that I can use it for whatever I want for £60 + VAT 

I think I can get away with the current use here and in my blog under fair use for educational purposes but wouldn't want to put that to the test for the actual production of a finished piece offered for sale. Plus I will probably want to offer the finished pattern for sale.

This is my own fault, I am familiar with copyright law and wouldn't have dreamed of using the image as part of a my normal work in web design. I suppose I just took my eye off the ball with being in hobby/workshop mode.

So....

I have another image in mind that looks very similar but is available free for commercial use. So I'll do a new pattern based on this new image then continue with the woodwork from there.

Please bear with me while I catch up...

Phill

P.S. Here is the new image, I'll just use the eagle part of course.


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## linkshouse (9 Apr 2017)

Great news.

Further to my last post, I've had some discussion with the photographer and he has agreed to let me use the image for the tutorials, Intarsia and patterns.

Just shows that it pays to talk (well email anyway).

So, quick tidy up of the workshop this morning to make room for the new project than we're good to go.

Happy days!


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## linkshouse (9 Apr 2017)

Workshop tidied and backboard cut to overall size, here it is with the pattern laid on it.





Quite excited to get working now.

Spent the rest of the morning "making wood"

I've glued up some narrow pieces of mahogany (I think) in case I need these.





I also cut up some more of the wood I mentioned in another post, consensus is greenheart, possibly an old wave breaker. I've cut this into 20mm an 25mm thick pieces. Then planed them. This is quite dark wood and I'm thinking it might be nice for the wings.

Sadly I discovered a hidden screw in one of the pieces. On further inspection there was no head to see with just the rusty shaft hidden on the weather surface. Brand new bandsaw blade too, so I was chuffed to bits about that! I must buy myself a metal detector. At least it didn't go through the planer.

Then it was time to do my duty walking Oscar.

Back now so might get into the workshop this afternoon.

Time for a senior moment now though I think...

Phill


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## Claymore (9 Apr 2017)

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## linkshouse (10 Apr 2017)

Claymore":30v8g3ib said:


> Looking good Phill and one of the problems we have to take recycling timber.....it usually happens when you have just fitted a new blade, I always use a metal detector that I got on Amazon its like a paddle shape and used for security people but works great for wood and it was half the price of those sold by woodworking tool retailers even though its identical.
> Give us a shout if you want a link for it.
> Cheers and keep up the great work, that's going to look stunning you clever sod lol
> Brian
> ps have you made a storage rack for your clamps? I have loads of them and fancy making some sort of rack to keep them all out of the way.



Yes please to the metal detector link.

I do have a clamp rack but it's nowt fancy. Just a but of wood with slots cut along the edge -

Phill


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## linkshouse (10 Apr 2017)

Finally sorted out wood and made a start on cutting out.

Here is the first bit, 178 still to do...


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## MrTeroo (10 Apr 2017)

linkshouse":16oiw96p said:


> Sorry this has been so long and I hope that it is of interest.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Phill



Not too long at all. Well presented and thorough. For anyone wanting to have a go at intarsia but wondering where to start, this is brilliant.

This is shaping up to be the best WIP ever!

Can it be made sticky?


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## AES (10 Apr 2017)

+1 for the idea of a sticky. Could I also suggest a change of title to something like - "Intarsia for beginners - from pattern making to finishing" (assuming that I'm not assuming too much with that last part of the tile Phill).

AES


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## linkshouse (10 Apr 2017)

Thank you for the kind comments but I really don't think it is that special.

As for sticky and renaming, I think only mods can do that.

Phill


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## Claymore (10 Apr 2017)

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## linkshouse (10 Apr 2017)

I mentioned in an earlier post that I had in mind to use the "greenheart" wood for the wings, and therefore the majority of the project.

I'm thinking I may need to rethink that.

I've cut the parts below so far (from the greenheart) - The bits with dark grey patterns on them.





Five parts = four blades!

Reading up on greenheart apparently it blunts tools very quickly and if this is greenheart, it sure does.

Given that there would be around another 90 - 100 piece to cut from this it is really a none starter.

So, it looks like it will have to be mahogany as that is the only wood I have in that is wide enough. Bit redder than I woudl have liked but hey ho!

I'll keep posting...

Phill


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## Claymore (10 Apr 2017)

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## linkshouse (10 Apr 2017)

Ah well, maybe that's the problem.

I'm using Pegas No5 modified geometry. I sue them for just about everything.

I don't think I have anything much bigger than No5. I may have some No7's kicking about but they'll be odd ones if I do.

Maybe I should invest in some No7's and No9's but it will hold me up a little bit.

Phill


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## Claymore (10 Apr 2017)

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## linkshouse (10 Apr 2017)

Claymore":2tt0c1vx said:


> Phill,
> I have some spare number 9's and I'll stick some in the post tomorrow if ya want? let me know asap and i will post them on my way out to shops tomorrow morning.
> Cheers
> Brian



That's very kind Brian but I'm sorted thanks.

Turns out I had some No7 and No12 super skip tooth and I've been having a go with them.

They're fairing better and so I will stick with the greenheart as I do like the colour but it is funny material.

I tried the No12 first and it romped through the wood at first but pretty quickly slowed down. And, to be honest all of the sizes, even the No5's tend to do the same. It's not so much that the wood is hard as that it just blunts the blades.

Thats all said the bigger blades do at least last a bit longer before I end up having to lean on them :wink: so I'll press on with them.

Thanks for the advice and offer of help Brian.

Phill


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## Claymore (10 Apr 2017)

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## linkshouse (11 Apr 2017)

It occurred to me that I had missed out a fairly important step in the process - wood selection.

I have managed to collect all sorts of wood and must admit that I haven't got a clue what most of them are, so I tend to just rifle through them and pick what I think will look nice  

To help me with this process I usually prep up woods by thicknessing them, giving the a quick sand and then applying wood finish to the end inch or so (as the finish significantly changes the colour). Then these are what go on my "ready to use" wood rack.

Having gone through my wood rack these are the woods that I have chosen for the Sea Eagle -






From left to right: 1st is what I will use for the dark parts of the wings, 2nd is the dreaded greenheart and this is what I will use for the medium shades which make up the majority of the piece, wings and body, 3rd is a medium light which I will use for the feet and head and then 4th is what I will use for the feet and beak. I've realised that I haven't got anything here for the tail feathers, I'll look for something almost white.

Carrying on form here...

I apply masking tape to the wood. I used to have trouble with the masking tape occasionally lifting during sawing but read a great tip in the Judy Gale Roberts intarsia book, which was to burnish the tape with a smooth object - hence the spoon. Have not had my masking tape lift since.






The bright eyed amongst you might notice the change of masking tape at the bottom edge. That's cos I'm a tight wad and dont use wide tape where narrow will do  

Next I apply cut out pieces of the pattern using a glue stick - I just use Pound store cheapies.






After applying the pattern pieces I cover the whole lot with sellotape then it's on to the saw.

I did a bit this morning but it has turned baltic here on Westray today and my fingers and toes were getting cold so I've lit my wood burner (always have plenty of fuel :roll: ) and retreated to the office to write this post while it warms up a bit.

Phill


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## JanetsBears (11 Apr 2017)

linkshouse":2nj045ga said:


> ...
> The bright eyed amongst you might notice the change of masking tape at the bottom edge. That's cos I'm a tight wad and dont use wide tape where narrow will do
> ...
> Phill



That's exactly the process I use, even to the colour of the masking tape and the different colour for the narrow bit, although I use a purple glue stick that I found in my wife's craft room. I've no idea what the glue stick cost but I like the purple colour as it allows me to easily see where I've applied it (it dries clear).

Chris


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## MrTeroo (11 Apr 2017)

Would you be able to explain a little bit about the properties of different blades and which to use for different wood?

Your post above re your trouble with the greenheart made me wonder.

Thanks again.


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## linkshouse (11 Apr 2017)

MrTeroo":36bisjef said:


> Would you be able to explain a little bit about the properties of different blades and which to use for different wood?
> 
> Your post above re your trouble with the greenheart made me wonder.
> 
> Thanks again.



I use Pegas blades and rather than me try to explain, here it is "from the horses mouth" - http://site.b2bprofessionaltools.com/catalogs/PegasChart.pdf

Of course there are other blade manufacturers but the blade sizing and use is pretty universal.

Regards

Phill


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## Claymore (11 Apr 2017)

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## linkshouse (14 Apr 2017)

Quick update in case people fear I've abandoned the project !

I am pegging away but my it is slow going with the greenheart, if that is what it is.

I'm committed to it as I have cut to much to change my mind but now, but in hindsight I perhaps should have changed to a different wood. It is such slow going as to be a bit distracting, also it occurs to me now that I will probably use just about all of it on this one project. Maybe I should have saved it for smaller projects then it would have gone further and not been so exasperating in small doses!

Ah well, here is where I'm up to so far.

I just hope it sands better than it saws :roll: 

Phill


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## Claymore (14 Apr 2017)

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## linkshouse (15 Apr 2017)

Claymore":10ilqqxv said:


> ps do you have one of those black and Decker 125mm foam sanding drums for ya drill press? if not i suggest you invest in one as they really speed up the intarsia sanding process and they are around £10 on Ebay etc



There's one on it's way now  

Phill


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## Claymore (15 Apr 2017)

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## linkshouse (16 Apr 2017)

Wee, happy days!!!

I've finished cutting all the greenheart, what a pig that has been!

Just a few tail feathers and the feet and I'm ready to start sanding....


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## linkshouse (16 Apr 2017)

Even happier days...

All the pieces have been cut and the patterns removed, now I can see wood, makes me happy  

Shaping next.


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## AES (16 Apr 2017)

This is going to look SUPERB linkshouse.

You've done a huge amount already, but are we going to get bits on the sanding, then finishing? (Please - pretty pleez)  

AES


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## linkshouse (16 Apr 2017)

AES":1zvpi0e1 said:


> This is going to look SUPERB linkshouse.
> 
> You've done a huge amount already, but are we going to get bits on the sanding, then finishing? (Please - pretty pleez)
> 
> AES



Will do.

Phill


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## gjhimages (17 Apr 2017)

Excellent description of how to create ones own patterns . 
I shall be having a go
Quick piece of information 
Photoshop CS2 is available free from the Adobe website all you have to do is 
create an account.
You can then download it , they also provide the serial number


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## AES (17 Apr 2017)

@ linkshouse: "Will do." You wrote.

Thanks, you're what we always used to call "a scholar and a gent Sir"!

I now have a question if you don't mind. In your picture (beautiful pic BTW) your bird is apparently flying from the Top RH side of the "frame" down towards the Bottom LH. In my discussions with Claymore (Brian) of this parish about the aeroplane Intarsia I'm going to make (STILL not even started yet!), Brian said that the aeroplane should appear to be flying "out of the wall, towards the viewer" - i.e. the bits furthest away from the viewer should be thinner than those bits nearest to the viewer. 

But looking at your finished cut outs, they all appear to be the same thickness. So are you going to SAND the backs off the bits that should be the thinnest (sounds like a LOT of work, and messy too!)? Or are you going to mount the finished pieces onto individual "wedge-shaped" backing pieces (before mounting the whole lot onto a 1 piece backer)? If the 2nd, that sounds like a LOT more careful cutting.

Sorry if I've got the wrong end of the stick, and TIA for your patience in answering.

AES


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## linkshouse (17 Apr 2017)

AES":6ah9txap said:


> @ linkshouse: "Will do." You wrote.
> 
> Thanks, you're what we always used to call "a scholar and a gent Sir"!


Ha ha! Thank you.



> I now have a question if you don't mind. In your picture (beautiful pic BTW) your bird is apparently flying from the Top RH side of the "frame" down towards the Bottom LH. In my discussions with Claymore (Brian) of this parish about the aeroplane Intarsia I'm going to make (STILL not even started yet!), Brian said that the aeroplane should appear to be flying "out of the wall, towards the viewer" - i.e. the bits furthest away from the viewer should be thinner than those bits nearest to the viewer.
> 
> But looking at your finished cut outs, they all appear to be the same thickness. So are you going to SAND the backs off the bits that should be the thinnest (sounds like a LOT of work, and messy too!)? Or are you going to mount the finished pieces onto individual "wedge-shaped" backing pieces (before mounting the whole lot onto a 1 piece backer)? If the 2nd, that sounds like a LOT more careful cutting.
> 
> ...


Brian is absolutely right (of course :roll: ).

Although it does depend on the pattern/subject. If the view is "square on" so to speak then of course this would not apply.

However in the case of your aeroplane and my eagle if definitely does.

So the top wing (in my project) is the furthest away and so needs to be thinner than the rest. Similarly the top foot is behind the bottom foot so also needs to be thinner.

Often on intarsia patterns you will see pieces marked as e.g. -1/4" and in this case the piece needs to be made of 1/4" thinner material than the rest or, be cut or sanded down accordingly. 

You may also see pieces marked e.g. +1/4" and in these cases a 1/4" wooden shim is placed behind the piece/s. You were concerned that this might involve a carefully cutting a lot of addition pieces but usually one can use a single shim behind several pieces (I may end up doing this with the lower/front wing, eagles left wing actually, on my project). Also, as the shim will be underneath the intarsia pieces it doesn't need to be cut as accurately as the intarsia pieces. Indeed shims are usually made slightly smaller than the pieces they are supporting to avoid interference with adjacent pieces.

As for sanding a taper on the back of pieces. This would be wrong as it would result in the sides of the pieces slanting as well and then they would not longer fit together.

Reducing the pieces from the back (which I do on the disc sander part of my belt/dic sander) should always be done square to the piece. If the piece needs to have a sloping face then this should be done on the front face.

You mention that all my pieces are the same thickness, but if you look carefully you will see that there are all sorts of thicknesses  This is just me not thinking ahead. One usual only has one thickness of material to hand, but in my case I cut and thicknessed the bulk of the material from 10" square stock so should have thought of this and saved myself a lot of work at the shaping stage :roll:  

Regards

Phill


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## linkshouse (17 Apr 2017)

I've started shaping my bits 

I usually do rough shaping on the bobbin sander -





I don't normally get use my palm sander on intarsia pieces, but then they're not normally this big :shock:





Here I am shaping the eye on my 1" belt sander -





I use a Dremel with a flexible shaft attachment for a lot of my shaping, in this case the upper beak -






I also use burrs in the Dremel for any additional small shaping that may need to be done, in this case the eagle's nostril -





Once shaped I smooth them off with a home made sanding mop in the drill press -





Here are the pieces for the head assembled together -





I would normally shape and sand all the project pieces first, before gluing them together or applying any stain of finish, but this is such a big piece, here is the head with the beak and eye stained yellow.





And here it is with the top of the front wing (eagles left wing) in place a cheeky coat of oil/varnish mix to bring out the colour of the wood (I'm impatient to see how the wood looks).






Regards

Phill


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## linkshouse (17 Apr 2017)

Further to my earlier reply to AES (Andy ?), I have indeed decided that I need a shim under the nearest wing but as per my earlier comments you can see here it is just one big, very loosely cut, piece -





What's more having put it in place I think I may need another shim to lift the last row of feathers (there's a name for them but I can't think what just now) up a bit more.





Of course this will mean that the ends of these feathers will be "hanging" in fresh air, but for this piece I think that will actually work quite well.

Regards

Phill


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## Claymore (17 Apr 2017)

.......


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## AES (18 Apr 2017)

Looking great Phill, and thanks for the explanation. (I went back to look at your original cut out pics and now see they ARE different thicknesses ("Wake up at the back there")!

Yup, it's Andy, but as there are several others on UKW, I usually stick to my initials.

AES


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## linkshouse (18 Apr 2017)

"Bad news" well kind of...

I've just picked up a pretty big web design contract, which of course in other respects is good, for me. But it does mean that I'm afraid my work on the Sea Eagle while continuing, will by necessity slow down a bit.

Blumming work! It's P.I.T.A.

Ah, well, such is life  

Regards

Phill


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## AES (18 Apr 2017)

I understand Phill, and agree with the sentiment. Now that I'm "properly" retired I think back and wonder how on earth I ever used to fit "non-essentials" (like work!) into my schedule.

Never mind, I'm sure the rest of your "followers" here (some new kind of cult maybe?  ) have patience enough to wait a bit. Just hurry up though 

AES


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## linkshouse (18 Apr 2017)

AES":2hqz0l8p said:


> I understand Phill, and agree with the sentiment. Now that I'm "properly" retired I think back and wonder how on earth I ever used to fit "non-essentials" (like work!) into my schedule.
> 
> Never mind, I'm sure the rest of your "followers" here (some new kind of cult maybe?  ) have patience enough to wait a bit. Just hurry up though
> 
> AES



I'm self employed so at least I can choose "when" to work even if not "if" to work :lol: 

Phill


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## linkshouse (19 Apr 2017)

What's more important - work or play?

So, with the above question answered in my head, back to my Sea Eagle.

I finished sanding and fitting the feathers to the shim that I made earlier, and then made a second shim as I thought I might, and have just glued that to the first -






This means that the front edge of the nearest wing will be lifted with the first shim by 12mm (12mm MDF) higher than the body and then the edge feathers will be lifted a further 12mm higher than the body. This is quite a lot and these are thick shims but then it is a big project.

AES mentioned in an earlier post that it sounded as though there would be a lot of sanding and I kind of glossed over it with reference to the shims etc. I should mention that even using shims there is usually a lot of quite heavy sanding when shaping the pieces for intarsia.

I use my bobbin sander with 80 grit sleeves for this and it can shift wood at a fair rate of knots. To be honest for all but very large pieces it is as quick to sand it down as it is to cut it down with the saw.

Also, sanding has the advantage that one can do it a bit at a time whilst offering the piece up to the rest of the pieces/project to check progress.

The only thing to be careful of with the bobbin sander is that it can shift a lot of wood quite quickly. And, if whilst pressing on and "shifting a lot of wood" one slips, it can shift skin quite quickly too :shock: and it really hurts!

Not that that has ever happened to me. But I had a mate that did it once and he said it it hurt a lot 8) 

That's all for now.

Phill


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## linkshouse (20 Apr 2017)

Just a quick progress update.

I've cut the main backboard now and glued the head and shimmed section to it. I've also made a start on the right, furthest away, wing -






This will probably be my last post on this for a little while now as from a WIP/tutorial point of view the rest is pretty much just more of the same, shaping and glueing individual pieces in place.

I'll do another update once it is all assembled and I start the finishing process.

Phill


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## AES (20 Apr 2017)

Really great Phill, very clear explanations, and the finished piece is clearly going to be something to be proud of.

It must be a bit of a nuisance to have to stop and do "unimportant" stuff like "real work". I too was self-employed before I finally retired, but the biggest difficulties in my game were A) "How long will this project last?" - Answer "About 6 weeks" (which often turned out to be more like 6 months), and B) projects were invariably about a million miles away from home, so although I really did love my work, it played havoc with any continuity in the workshop.

So I do feel for you mate, and thanks even more for making the effort to both educate me and keep me "entertained".

AES


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## linkshouse (23 Apr 2017)

Quick update...

I've finished shaping and gluing -





The feet were that last bit to add and they hang over the end of the backing board, hence the temporary support.

I'll leave this overnight to let the glue properly dry then tomorrow I can apply a first proper coat of finish.

Phill


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## AES (23 Apr 2017)

Looking great!

AES


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## linkshouse (24 Apr 2017)

Thanks AES, actually looking at it now I may do a little bit of post assembly shaping with the Dremel to add a bit of definition to some of the feathers.

Maybe, maybe not. I'll decide as I start working on the finish, which I hope to do today.

I need to nip out and buy some coal for the fire though as it has turned very cold here over the last couple of days and I burnt the last of my firewood yesterday. I thought the time for lighting the fire had passed but my fingers and toes were going numb at one point yesterday so I had to give in and light the stove.

Phill


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## AES (24 Apr 2017)

Yeah, we had a heavy snow fall the other day! Didn't last long mind, but still, mid+ April, and we're only low down in the general scheme of (Swiss) things, and a LONG way South of you up there.

AES


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## linkshouse (24 Apr 2017)

AES":1rwguy3w said:


> Yeah, we had a heavy snow fall the other day! Didn't last long mind, but still, mid+ April, and we're only low down in the general scheme of (Swiss) things, and a LONG way South of you up there.
> 
> AES



It's a funny thing, people always imagine that we have really cold weather and actually it is very rare for it to snow here. Certainly it is rare for it to settle as, what we do have plenty of is wind.

But today there is hardly any wind and the snow is settling nicely. I'm quite looking forward to taking Oscar for his walk as I am sure the Alaskan Malamute in him will love it.

Phill


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## linkshouse (24 Apr 2017)

Here we are at the final stages...

Here is the piece well and truly blathered with wiping varnish (1/3rd each of varnish, boiled linseed oil and white spirits) -





Then I rubbed this in and smoothed off the surface of the wood using wire wool.

Normally this would be done on the second coat of the finish and this is the second coat as impatience has led me to apply an initial coat as i've been assembling the project.

Ever the patient one  here it is finished and on our lounge wall -










My work here is done :lol: 

Phill


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## AES (24 Apr 2017)

That really does look EXCELLENT Phill.

=D> =D> =D> 

And thanks for all the trouble you've taken in photographing and explaining every step of the way. A 1st Class "'ow I done it". As said before, I've bookmarked this thread (NOT that I expect to ever reach your - and Brian's - standards).

AES


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## Claymore (24 Apr 2017)

.........


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## linkshouse (24 Apr 2017)

I thought I'd just post these quick snapshots to give some scale

This one appealed as I thought "it doesn't look good for Grommet (the cat)" -






The Oscar cam along, I think he'd be a bit more of a challenge -






Phill


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## Aggrajag (26 Apr 2017)

Outstanding intarsia and also write up. Thank you Phill.

How many hours would you estimate it took to make (not counting the tutorial)?


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