# Finishing a kitchen worktop



## angelboy (7 Feb 2016)

We currently have an ikea birch worktop http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/80273794/ and we want to updat it.

I wanted a walnut finish but I'm unsure what to use and what's the best type of finish.

Any ideas or advice?


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## blackrodd (8 Feb 2016)

See what others say, Several members have mentioned Worktop Express and had a good experience.
I've put a link for them below, their recommended finish appears to be Rustins, scroll down the page for Different Species, prices, delivery, etc.
I've got a small job do needing some worktop , so I'll be looking at these myself.
There's very little worktop choice here in Sunny Devon as Ikea is 100 miles away, ( That may be a plus!).Regards Rodders


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## angelboy (8 Feb 2016)

Sorry, I didn't explain myself correctly.


I want to sand down the birch and add some kind of stain or dye to give it a walnut effect. I also didn't know what the preferred finish might be, like what type of sheen.

I will check out your suggestion for future reference though, thanks.


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## blackrodd (8 Feb 2016)

I Googled "Foodsafe" Walnut stain and the link is below, Rustoleum is the first, have a butchers,
Regards Rodders

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=food+ ... ld67NmY%3D


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## Homers double (8 Feb 2016)

Hello angelboy
Sand your work top back give it the walnut wood stain and then finish off with osmo top oil in natural finish,
I've made several work tops mainly in oak, I've tried various finishes and the osmo stuff is extremely durable and long lasting


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## Dee J (8 Feb 2016)

Getting back to a surface free of the existing coating will be a challenge. Any trace of the existing lacquer will affect the stain take-up and may well cause a blotchy appearance. If it ends up a blotchy mess, be prepared to change the worktop. Its a course of action with little opportunity to retreat!


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## Wuffles (8 Feb 2016)

Dee J":2j3cdhnz said:


> Getting back to a surface free of the existing coating will be a challenge. Any trace of the existing lacquer will affect the stain take-up and may well cause a blotchy appearance. If it ends up a blotchy mess, be prepared to change the worktop. Its a course of action with little opportunity to retreat!



Good point, would a tester coat with white spirit not show up any potential blotchy areas that need more work? A bit like.


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## ED65 (8 Feb 2016)

Wuffles":39wz0eqq said:


> Good point, would a tester coat with white spirit not show up any potential blotchy areas that need more work? A bit like.


Not certain if this works with oiled wood rather than after removing varnish or lacquer. However, going over the surface with white spirit will help to remove any last traces of oil. I was going to suggest you thoroughly degrease anyway, even if you plane or scrape in preference to sanding, as there's always the chance you might get a little cross-contamination on parts of the surface. 

Re. the food-safe aspect of this, just about any stain should be fine because it'll be protected under your topcoat where it won't come into contact with the food anyway.


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## angelboy (8 Feb 2016)

Thanks.

I'll sand back then add white spirit and see how I get on.


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## MrYorke (13 Feb 2016)

If it's been pre-finished by ikea it'll be a nightmare to take it off back to fresh timber!

I did this for a customer and it was serious hard graft and took ages to get it all off! I really wouldn't recommend it unless you have a good quality ROS and good quality sand paper & shoulder and arm muscles the size of the hulk. 

Good luck but if you can, replace the top instead.


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## scosarg (15 Feb 2016)

I used Osmo Polyx Oil semi matt sanded down to 1200 grit on some pippy oak - gave a beautiful finish.
They do it with different colours and sheens


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## scosarg (15 Feb 2016)

I forgot the picture..


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## Phil Pascoe (15 Feb 2016)

By the time you've finished it, you'll wish you'd replaced it.  Damhikt.


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## Wuffles (15 Feb 2016)

scosarg":rnr2u8ox said:


> I forgot the picture..



That is gorgeous. Love it.


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## angelboy (15 Feb 2016)

Very nice! 

I'll heed the hard work element. I have a ROS and I'll paper myself to the hilt!

The IKEA tops are unfinished and you oil them yourself. Some of the pieces were inherited with the he kitchen but they'll still have been treated the same.


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## scosarg (17 Feb 2016)

if you're interested, this is planing the worktop..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dsYdFFHPto


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## angelboy (17 Feb 2016)

How much would a worktop like that cost?


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## scosarg (17 Feb 2016)

4500 x900 x65 kiln dried board cost a lot... 
The work to plane it, fill it, sand it is priceless!


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