# Kitchen work top jig.



## mack22 (11 Nov 2011)

Can anyone please advise on a reliable kitchen work top jig that's not to expensive, looking on Ebay the prices seem so far apart for an item that is supposed to the same job, I appreciate that quality comes into the equation, but how can you really tell, until perhaps its to late!
I have seen a basic one made by Unika from Toolstation, any ideas from anyone..please.


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## jordec66 (11 Nov 2011)

Hi, good idea to go for howden or magnet trade, I have both, they are of equal quality, but I think magnet is cheaper ( around £75), both
are proven tools, which guide the cutter right first time every time. Avoid budget brands, I had an encounter with one long ago and it cost me time and stress.

good luck.


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## monkeybiter (11 Nov 2011)

Just my VERY limited experience:- Our new kitchen, three corner joints, ~£20 jig found through google. It worked perfectly for my one time job. 
Obviously for repeated or trade use a better [more wear resistant] would be more appropriate.

HTH


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## seaco (12 Nov 2011)

If you just need to do one kitchen then the cheap ones work fine if it's going to be your trade then you need to get quality that will last!


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## cambournepete (12 Nov 2011)

I got a cheap MDF one and while it worked OK for one kitchen it did flex a bit in use so I had to be very careful.


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## RogerBoyle (13 Nov 2011)

seaco":3s4qrs7q said:


> If you just need to do one kitchen then the cheap ones work fine if it's going to be your trade then you need to get quality that will last!



This is where i got mine from
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/TopformProduct ... 4340.l2563
( I have no dealings other than as a Customer with this company)

I went for the professional version ( £45 when i bought it ) as I was Kitchen fitting at the time 
Still have it and it works as well as any other jig out there 
It has remained flat and true despite being used and abused by me over the last 7 years.

The only reason I opted for this one was i needed the 1000mm width as I was doing a custom worktop and my trend one wasn't bid enough and I refused to pay over £200 for the bigger version

Looking at his range If it was just a one of job then i would go with the cheaper one or go with the more expensive one and sell it on 
HTH

Roger


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## mack22 (13 Nov 2011)

Thanks for the advice everyone.
Question for Roger.. I have looked at the site you mentioned, I maybe am a bit dim and also never having used one of these jigs before.. Why is there angle profiles at both ends of the smaller version and only one on the larger longer version?
Probably a simple reason, please advise thank you.
Ian


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## RogerBoyle (13 Nov 2011)

Ian
they were designed that way to give an option of two different Mitres and cut down on the amount of times that you actually flipped the jig. 
But instead all it does is confuse people as not only do you end up flipping the jigs but you also turn them upside down and before you know it you have the Masons Mitre backwards or the wrong hand LOL.

IMHO The jigs with only the single curve are so much easier to use and the mitre results are usually better without any fettling 

Regardless of which jig you go for Study the pics on the instructions before cutting any worktops then double check it 
Only use a good quality 1/2" Router bit other wise you will never get a good joint 
I tend to use a clear silicone on the bottom half of each joint and colour matched glue on the top side as it makes for a stronger joint

Roger


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## mack22 (13 Nov 2011)

Roger thanks for the information, just one last point if I may, as this joint will be near the sink unit, I assume a good PVA waterproof glue will be sufficient in avoiding problems with de-lamination etc.
Last question on the subject...honest!
Ian


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## RogerBoyle (13 Nov 2011)

Ian
In my experience you are much better off with the silicone and the colour match glue (or just silicone if its a solid colour worktop)than PVA 

Please feel free to ask away I'd rather you ask than have to replace a fitted bit of worktop 6 months down the line..
One other point to note
Around the sink and hob cut outs that you make Smear some silicone around the fresh cut to seal the worktop from any moisture/spilt water 

Roger


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## mack22 (15 Nov 2011)

Roger many thanks for the advice, I am normally ok with woodworking having served (many years ago) an apprenticeship as a church organ builder, however from the (over) assured youth that I once was, I now know its now better to be aware of any pitfalls or liabilities that could occur in ones intended actions, from the off !
Ian


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## RogerBoyle (15 Nov 2011)

LOL
Never a truer word spoken (hammer) =D> 

Roger


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## Eric The Viking (16 Nov 2011)

RogerBoyle":1jgia8yl said:


> Please feel free to ask away I'd rather you ask than have to replace a fitted bit of worktop 6 months down the line...



Besides which, Ian Mack22, there are other people (me) reading with interest ! 

So far you've asked several questions that I would have asked too, and probably need to know for later 

Cheers, 

E.

PS: No genuine question is a stupid one, either!


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## Dibs-h (21 Nov 2011)

I only ever did one "job"with a jig - mate's kitchen - 2 corners. They came up a treat. The jig was a Pro style, solid laminate one, as opposed to a MDF type one. I bought a 1000 one, along with a box of clamps and 1 tube of every colour of glue they had.

If you haven't used such a jig before - practice, but read the instructions 1st and then again. A "dry" run is not necessarily a bad idea.

Like Roger Boyle - I used normal silicone for most of the joint depth and the colour glue in the top. Having applied masking taping to the top surface of the worktop, to make "cleanup" far easier.

Dibs


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