# Router fence



## RussianRouter (12 Jun 2010)

In Fig.1 you will see the normal straight router fenceand the green oblong is the stock/workpiece,notice after its passed the cutter it does not touch the fence after the cut if we are to use the fence before the cut for keeping the workpiece straight.

In Figure.2 two the same situation but with a draw that moves in and out for alignment and keeping the workpiece straight after its passed the cutter.

Does this make sense?

http://www.20xx20.myby.co.uk/copy.jpg


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## Jamesc (12 Jun 2010)

Hi George, 

This make eminent sense, I is the arrangement I have on my Trend Craftsman table. I would suggest that you want it much closer to the outfeed side of the cutter and to overcome the bugbear I have with mine allow for different thicknesses of your 'drawer'. 

James


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## RussianRouter (12 Jun 2010)

Hi J ames

It just that I have seen tables made were the fence has just been made straight,even ones on here and I thought he's going to have a problem keeping a good length of wood butt up againt the fence epecially when it gets a foot away near the end of the stock.

I was scratchin me head thinking why? as my first router table I had made incorporated this draw into the fence because of longish stock.


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## Jamesc (12 Jun 2010)

Hi George, 

I'm not massively experienced with the router table myself (I'm sure others will be along soon who know much more) the main idea behind the extending piece is when your moulding takes away the majority of the reference face it provides support to help prevent rocking, this is where I want different thicknesses as the lump that stick out rarely seems to be the right size. The other use is if you remove all the face, then obviously you want as much support as possible. 

James


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## RussianRouter (12 Jun 2010)

On my 1st table I came a cross a few things that needed ironing out hence my 2nd attempt just started.

My main worry was this draw,I found a sharp edge of the draw would interfere with the glide of the stock even though the draw was spot on to accept the compensation cut,seems it needs to be rounded off at the corners so that the stock finds it way onto the draw without intteruption.


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## SketchUp Guru (12 Jun 2010)

My router table fence came with a couple of aluminum bars that slip into the left end of the fence to compensate for the material cut off. They slide in behind the MDF fence face. The bars are rectangular in section. They can be installed for two different depths of cut.

Some folks will stick pieces of counter top laminate or other thin stiff to shim out the outfeed fence.


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## CNC Paul (13 Jun 2010)

George,

I use one of these for a router fence, it can be used straight or offset by any amount.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... =1&jump=44


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## RogerS (21 Jun 2010)

Aren't we confusing the length of the outfeed support vs whether it is a separate offsettable outfeed fence?

A separate outfeed fence that can be offset is needed when removing stock - either by a straight edged bit smoothing off an edge or even a fairly beefy moulding bit. If the outfeed fence can't be moved forward slightly to support the work then you'll get problems. 

Being able to lengthen the outfeed fence doesn't do much IMO since you should be using a feather board that keeps the stock tight against the bit...where it's needed. Of more concern to me would be supporting the end of the stock against gravity as it extended off the edge of the table.


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## RussianRouter (21 Jun 2010)

RogerS":2a5jqeew said:


> Of more concern to me would be supporting the end of the stock against gravity as it extended off the edge of the table.



Thats why I'm putting hinged side flaps on my new table,so that if I'm working with long stock I just pull up the flap and pull out the hinge flaps rest then drop it down after I have finished for space convenience


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