# Infill Smoothing Plane Project



## rxh

I am considering making a dovetailed infill smoothing plane using this 2” Robert Sorby blade. The blade has cleaned up quite well but its slot was not central so I machined it to make it equidistant from the sides. It is a tapered blade, which is not ideal for this type of plane but I have calculated that the mouth gap would open up by about 1/64” (0.4mm) if one inch is the blade is sharpened away and I think that should be tolerable (I suppose a shim could be fitted under the blade if needed).

I have made this preliminary drawing after studying various sources, including Richard T’s excellent thread: dovetailed-infill-first-fumblings-t46458.html and Jim Kingshot’s book: Making & Modifying Woodworking Tools. Now I feel almost ready to begin but before I cut metal I would be pleased to receive any comments or tips and also a recommendation for the best dovetail angle to use. The metal dovetailing will be a new experience but I believe I have tried the other techniques needed. The body will be parallel sided because I feel that a coffin shape might be a bit ambitious for my first attempt. A few details to be decided are: the number and positions of infill attachment points and the size and attachment details for the “frog block”.

The proposed material is mild steel except brass for a few parts including lever cap and knobs. For the infill wood I am thinking of using some mahogany recovered from an old piece of furniture.


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## Richard T

Hi Rxh

Looks promising.  

The mouth width will be dependant on the angle of the iron as well as the thickness of it. I have made 47, 50, and 55 degrees and the mouths have got tighter as the angle has increased. 

I have been riveting the frog blocks on (covered in the first fumblings thread I'm sure) and also riveting in the infills _but_while the infills can be screwed in the frog block is (I think) best riveted - brazing maybe very difficult to clean around afterwards.


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## rxh

Thanks, Richard.

What dovetail angle would you recommend? I was thinking of 1 in 4. My materials arrived today so I hope to cut some metal this weekend if the weather is not too cold. Last weekend the lock on my shed was frozen and I gave up in disgust.


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## Richard T

I have settled on 75 degrees - 80 would OK I'm sure. I started with 60 and the final getting into the corners with a triangular needle file is a real pain. It's amazing how stubbornly rounded they stay under a magnifying glass. Also when cutting the pins to correspond, there is less of an angle to work the saw back to square for the majority of cuts. (Assuming you're going to use a saw...) 

I'd be interested to know what type of mild steel you got - black or bright ?

Don't forget to add 1/16th " extra for peining!!!


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## rxh

Thanks again. 1 in 4 corresponds to 76 degrees so I looks like I guessed about right. It is bright mild steel sheet - I took note of your remarks about the labour of cleaning up the black stuff. Yes, I do intend to use a saw.

I'll post some pictures - assuming that I don't mess up the job.....


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## rxh

Well, I have made a start. Here are the sides cut out and temporarily rivetted together and I have started to cut out the dovetails.


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## Richard T

Looking good rhx yet you don't need to cut both sides exactly the same .... it might save some trouble of course if you do .. but the real important thing is if you get them marked onto the sole right. 
If the front and backs are level when scratching the marks for the pins onto the sole - it doesn't matter so much if the tails are not exactly the same. That bit is approximate. 
I have tended to cut out the sides, mark and dovetail them individually, and then clamp them and marry them by filing. 


Looking very good.


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## L2wis

Looks a really interesting project!


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## Richard T

Just a thought about accurately holding the cut sides to mark the pins on to the sole - I have started to use a bit of steel angle that I cleaned up. It's dead square and offers the opportunity of multi - clampage: 






The sole can be held in the vice and adjusted to be flush with the top surface ( this is not the actual sole but you get the idea) 






And the plane side can be clamped to the top and fine adjusted with a mallet 'til it's spot on. 






Then you need have no worries about pressing hard enough with the scriber to get really good marks - it's all clamped up tight and won't move.


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## Aled Dafis

An excellent idea Richard, I used to do something similar with an engineers angle plate, but clamping both the sole and side was a bit of a phaff, the angle section in a vice is a far better solution.

Aled


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## Richard T

Cheers Aled

I started by using a square block of wood but the G clamps need to be open a very long way and it was not as stable somehow.


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## rxh

Thanks Richard,

That is a good tip about the steel angle. I hope to start work on the sole this weekend.


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## rxh

I finished cutting the dovetails in the sides this week and set to work on the sole yesterday. I used an angle grinder with a thin disc to cut out the rectangle roughly, then filed to size. To my frustration I couldn't find a suitable piece of angle in my junk boxes so I did the scribing by holding the sole in the woodworking vice and cramping the sides to the bench top. I sawed just within the scribed lines then drilled followed by angled saw cuts to remove as much waste as possible before filing the pins to fit the sides. The sides are not permanently attached yet and I'll remove them to work on the mouth and frog bock next.


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## rileytoolworks

I'm watching this with baited breath.
It's looking like a real beauty so far.

All the best.

Adam.


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## Harbo

Excuse my ignorance but shouldn't the sole but cut in a dovetail shape too - not square/right angled?

Rod


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## rxh

Rod: yes it will end up as a dovetail shape both ways. If you look at Richard T's thread: dovetailed-infill-first-fumblings-t46458.html you will see how it is done.

Thanks Adam,
I'm enjoying the challenge but my elbow is starting to play me up a bit with all the sawing and filing!


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## Richard T

The ' double' dovetail comes just before peining Rod - filed arrises to move the steel of the tails into. 

Looking very good rxh. 

I've found that when cutting the mouth, instead of chain drilling and filing the whole thing, it is far easier and quicker to chain drill and file just enough to get a saw blade in. Re - attach to the hacksaw frame and saw it all out just inside your scribed lines down to a single drill hole at the other end. This means you can get a decent sized file in to finish it - it's a right pain doing all that work with a card file. Knocks at least a day off proceedings, is much kinder to the wrists and you are more likely to avoid accidentally filing the other side of the mouth with the other side of the file. #-o


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## rxh

Thanks again, Richard.

More excellent advice


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## jimi43

Beautiful workmanship rxh!! =D> 

I too am watching this with interest....waiting for the infill part to see what you choose for that.

If you're anything like me you will debate for ages which type of wood to go for...even though you may have already got an idea...then you will have fun sourcing just the right bit and then comes the agonising of the first cut...usually into a treasured bit of hardwood you've been "saving for that very special job"...and fallen in love with in the raw over the years.

I can't bring myself to cut into my "photo stand".....






I think I might make something from her one day...nah!!! :mrgreen: 

Good luck with the next bits....I sympathise with the sore arms...

Jim


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## rxh

Thanks for your kind comments Jim.

That's a very impressive piece of wood you have there - I bet it would be difficult to work. I have some mahogany from an old desk that might do but I haven't cut into it or planed it yet. I think mahogany should be stable as it was commonly used for making cameras and scientific instruments. I've also got some yew somewhere -it is pretty wild looking stuff but I don't know how stable it would be.

I've now made the frog block and cut out a rectangle that is intended to become the cap iron.


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## jimi43

rxh":2f53vb8x said:


> Thanks for your kind comments Jim.
> 
> That's a very impressive piece of wood you have there - I bet it would be difficult to work. I have some mahogany from an old desk that might do but I haven't cut into it or planed it yet. I think mahogany should be stable as it was commonly used for making cameras and scientific instruments. I've also got some yew somewhere -it is pretty wild looking stuff but I don't know how stable it would be.
> 
> I've now made the frog block and cut out a rectangle that is intended to become the cap iron.



Mahogany was commonly used by user-made infill makers...but not considered the highest quality. Yew would be a nightmare because of the opposing grain...I love the wood but it is also fairly soft.

Rosewood (the real Brazilian Rio stuff) was the highest quality used...sometimes you find boxwood.

I think that the amount of time you are going to spend making the handle and infills...(and you will!)...I would get a nice exotic for it...check out Bill Carter's website for some examples!

Cheers and if you need any tips on the infill part let me know.

Jim


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## rxh

Thanks for the suggestions Jim and the offer of tips. I think I'll widen the search for infill wood, possibly from suppliers of turning blanks.

I made a start on the mouth tonight. I decided to remove most of the waste by milling but I'll need to finish it by filing.


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## jimi43

No problems rxh...happy to help.

Just be careful with that mouth...it's the critical bit...I'll let Richard give you tips here as he is the oily stuff expert but in my experience...the transition from the frog...the part of the rear mouth that forms part of the frog...the rear infill angle and the iron thickness are all precision angles...

Jim


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## Jelly

Forgive me if this is a silly question, but why is it that dovetailed steel is the preferred method of construction for infills? I would have thought that investment casting in steel or bell-metal (bronze), would deliver just as well.

I understand why this would be the best method for a modern day hobbyist, given it doesn't require a furnace of 1300+ or 950+ degrees; but the preference seems to also include the original infills, the sources I've read simply state that the dovetailed ones are superior, but don't explain why: hence the question.


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## rxh

I think it’s a good question, Jelly. No doubt some knowledgeable readers will post replies.

A quotation from Jim Kingshott’s book, Making & Modifying Woodworking Tools: “Because all the plane’s body is made from plate material free of the latent stress inherent in a casting, the plane stays very true. _It is also possible to work to much closer tolerances with this method of construction.”_


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## jimi43

And I know which one I would prefer to drop on the floor! (not that I would of course!!!) :mrgreen: 

Jimi


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## Corneel

On woodnet there was a group project for making a casting. The guy who did the work was familiar with pattern making and casting metal, but even he had tremendous troubles to make a good one. First he had voids, then he had troubles with shrinkage in critical spots. In the end he had to do some creative hammering and grinding to get usable castings for a small smoother.


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## Richard T

Oh well if you _will_ mill it .... [-(  

I spent an hour or two (or three) yesterday drilling and filing the latest one: 





I know this looks a fright but the scribed lines are short of the finished mouth by quite a bit; this allows for initial drilling off - centring, re filing with the frog block attached whether that is over or under, filing it flush, mistakes with the sawing out and just general belt and braces.

Also I would like to point out that the scribed lines at the sides of the mouth should eventually be filed right through and perhaps more. The last thing you want is to have put it all together and find that the corners of the iron get dinged on protruding sides every time you put it back in after sharpening beautifully. 

What angle of pitch have you decided on?


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## rxh

Richard, I decided to do the milling to save some time and give my poor elbow a bit of a rest  . I used new cutters, took light cuts and stopped frequently to clear swarf, lubricate and see where I was up to. Even so, I was rather afraid of going to far and I stopped short of the intended finished size. Thanks for the tip about the mouth width. I am making the angle 50 degrees.


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## Richard T

Being afraid of going too far with the mouth width is a healthy fear. Final scribed lines are very vunerable to wayward hack saws:









So when the mouth is cut to those lines, it is just to establish its basic shape and position; 





You can't really judge it with the iron until you have the frog block on with the right (correct) angle to give a good reference past the bevel of the iron. 
In the almost finished plane I have striven for this; the iron just passes the front of the mouth but there is no gap.





Hopefully the gap will open enough with lapping - I've been using a 70 degree escape angle which should be enough I think although I have never read of a recommended angle.

Edited to add for Jelly - I'd hate to try to do this with a casting. I'm sure it is possible but when you make each individual component, there is the opportunity to do the best you can with each ... or screw it all up equally of course ...


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## AndyT

Jelly":kgz1zpsz said:


> Forgive me if this is a silly question, but why is it that dovetailed steel is the preferred method of construction for infills? I would have thought that investment casting in steel or bell-metal (bronze), would deliver just as well.
> 
> I understand why this would be the best method for a modern day hobbyist, given it doesn't require a furnace of 1300+ or 950+ degrees; but the preference seems to also include the original infills, the sources I've read simply state that the dovetailed ones are superior, but don't explain why: hence the question.



A lot of original infills would have been made on a very small scale (think of Bill Carter's shed!) or as one-offs by their users

Trying to think myself back into the mindset of a late 19th century woodworker who really wanted a fine infill plane, I'd probably favour the method I could get on and do on my own. Dovetailing together flat pieces of steel needs the minimum investment in tools and materials, whereas buying a casting from a foundry or tool merchant would have been expensive. (Also, it needs some understanding of the details of castings, as the Work mag project has shown.) 

Finding some bits of flat steel (possibly even cadged as offcuts?) would be cheaper. Castings straight from the foundry need hours spent filing, so the time difference may not have been huge. 

Also, have a look at this page http://www.infill-planes.com/what-is-an-infill-plane/ which makes it clear just how hard it was to find a foundry able to make good cast bodies in the C19th.


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## rxh

The frog block was fitted this weekend, slightly overlapping the slope at the back of the mouth. I opened the ends of the rivet holes with a taper reamer to give the rivets space to expand into (an ordinary countersink has too wide an angle leading to a risk of cracks appearing in the rivets). I then filed the frog block sloping edge down to size, getting the correct angle by sighting the file against a guide made from a bock of aluminium alloy and a magnet. The front edge of the mouth will need more filing later to suit the blade.


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## Richard T

=D> =D>


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## Richard T

Just a word about the peining ... and this might be the most important tip. 

When you have peined the tails; moved their corners well and truly into the filed arises of the pins, the plane is together and will not come apart again so the peining of the pins is just to fill in and become flush. It is not necessary to pein the pins fully until you have the infills in. 

This is as well because for some reason, it is peining the pins that will push the tops of the sides over inwards far more than peining the tails. I don't know why this should be but that is what happens. If you are not careful and over eager when peining up the pins you will end up with a shell so out of square that it is impossible to get it back. Even with the form in, even if that form is incompressible, it is possible to put so much tension into it that when you take the form out, it will spring inwards. 

The shell I made for Jim is a case in point. As I was going to send him the finished shell, I didn't have the option of leaving the pins unfinished so I did them up _very_ carefully with a piece of square section steel tube as a form that I moved along for every pin. And it still tuned out a little bit inward leaning. So I sent him the tube section to push in to give him a square plane and to help with getting the infills in. 

Much better to do this closing up onto the finished infills rather than mess around trying to get them in after.


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## rxh

Richard, thanks very much for the tip. I would have fallen into that trap without your warning.


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## rxh

Last weekend, with some trepidation, I took hammers and punches to my carefully filed metal work. I think I had made things difficult for myself by filing the arrises in the pins a bit too deep and I found it hard to drive the steel right into the corners. A rounded punch turned out to be the best tool for doing this. The result is not perfect but not too bad - I got better with practice.

Since I wanted to get the rather brutal hammering process over with I made spacer tubes and screw jacks to keep the sides apart while peining the pins - as they were already a good fit not much hammering was needed. These jacks and spacers will stay in place until I am ready to fit the infills.

The next task will be to file chamfers on the sides. Today I obtained a nice piece of quarter sawn padauk that looks promising for the infills.


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## rileytoolworks

Excellent work so far mate.
This is definitely on my list of things to do before I die.

Thanks for the excellent write up.

Adam.


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## jimi43

I don't come here often at the moment as time is used up looking at the heavens but I come to this thread (and a few others) because it is simply delightful to watch!

Bravo mate!

=D> =D> =D> 

Jim

PS Richard...I promise to get the panel finished soon!!! :mrgreen:


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## Togalosh

Wow, wow, wow ..I am seriously impressed.

I've got the infil making bug thanks to you & Richard T. 

...why didn't you mill the dovetails too with the sheet on it's edge? (more stoopid questions may follow)

Togs


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## rxh

Adam, Jim and Togs, thanks for your kind comments.
Adam and Togs, it's nice to see that some others fancy having a go at infill making. Richard and Jims' threads, tips and encouragement have been very helpful to me.
Togs, it's not a daft question about the milling. Istarted milling out the waste but stopped because of fear of going too far by careless machining. Removing the waste by drilling, hacksaw cuts and filing didn't take all that long.
I have very limited internet access at the moment but should be able to post longer messages next week.


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## Togalosh

Can I ask how much you paid for the sheet/plate metal ?

Are the brass ones only cast & not dovetailed?.. (melting down all my plumbing scrap might be pushing it ..)

I'll have a few dummy runs with wooden planes first as the frog/mouth maths/geometry seems trickiest to me although infilling is a daunting prospect.

Keep up the good work.

T


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## speeder1987

I'm really enjoying seeing how this is progressing

Thanks for posting

John


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## rxh

Togs,
I got the metal from Macc Models Engineers Supplies Ltd - you can see their prices on the website:
https://maccmodels.co.uk/
They don’t have brass in wide pieces ½” thick and I am still looking for a source of metal to make my lever cap. I did start to look into the possibility of doing my own casting from melted scrap but it would be quite a lot of trouble to get set up for and there are some serious safety issues to deal with. 
I don’t think that anyone would want to make a dovetailed plane with brass sides and sole. I believe that steel is better for a sole as it more hardwearing. Planes with steel sole and brass sides look pretty (provided that the dovetails are well made). I suspect that brass/steel dovetailed joints are trickier to make than the all steel type: any defects will show up worse and brass work hardens when hammered making it liable to crack or split. Anyway, why not have a try at making a practice dovetailed joint between two pieces of scrap steel? That would give you a good idea of the work involved in making a plane that way.
Or you might be able to obtain a bronze casting that you could fettle and turn into a plane – I have read that such castings were available from Bristol Design but I don’t know if they make them now.

John,
Thanks for your comment. Not much progress recently because I was away on holiday last week. However, I have done most of the shaping of the edges but I’ll leave the finishing until the weekend so as to be able to work in natural light. Tonight I bent the piece of steel intended for the back iron. I did this by heating the end with a gas blowlamp then clamping it in the vice and thumping with a lump hammer. Finishing the back iron should hopefully be straightforward sawing and filing work. I hope to start work on the woodwork this weekend.


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## Richard T

re lever cap - I found it was (comparatively) easy to cut from solid brass. I would not have attempted it in bronze. 

I don't know if you saw this thread - juicy-brass-lever-cap-t67240.html


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## AndyT

rxh":3u6qg00q said:


> Togs,
> 
> Or you might be able to obtain a bronze casting that you could fettle and turn into a plane – I have read that such castings were available from Bristol Design but I don’t know if they make them now.



They may not be having new ones cast but they do still have them in stock. This post has details: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/source-of-infill-bodies-or-kits-t42651.html


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## rxh

Richard,
Thanks yet again - that is a very useful thread about lever cap making. Now I just need to find someone to supply me with a suitable lump of brass. I haven't searched very hard yet and I have plenty of other details to work on before I need it.

Andy,
Thanks for the information. If anyone out there is making a plane from one of these castings it would be great if they would post a WIP.


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## rxh

This weekend as a change from filing metal I decided to make the knobs and some of the adjuster parts for the plane. I also planned to start some of the woodwork but I found a broken plastic part of my bandsaw when preparing to fit a new blade. I have repaired with araldite and will let it set overnight and then see if it is successful.


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## rxh

Here is the rear infill, made from Padauk. It is deliberately a bit too wide - I'll leave it for a while to see if it shrinks before reducing it to fit the steelwork.


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## jimi43

Simply stunning!!!

=D> =D> =D> =D> 

Jimi


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## Richard T

Lovely bit of machine work on the metal bits. Is the adjuster 40 tpi and 32 tpi ? Will be very interesting to see it all together and what you think re its speed.

I don't know anything about Padauk or its stability. Do you know how old it is and in what conditions it has been kept? 

My Walnut was three years old when I bought it and it has been living with us in the house ever since ( one year +) and I still don't trust it 8-[ 

Definitely best to cut out the bits and leaving them too wide as you have done. How long can you bear to leave it before fitting?


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## rxh

Jim and Richard,
Thanks for your kind comments.

Richard,
Padauk is supposed to be very stable but this is my first experience of it. I bought it a few weeks ago - it was sold as a turning blank and was well covered with wax at both ends. It is rather tricky to plane as there are bands of grain running in opposite directions and I resorted to a scraper plane. The dust is bright orange, has a strange smell and stains clothes - I suspect it is not very good for you! I still have a number of other parts to make or finish so it will probably be a few weeks before I am tempted to reduce the infill to final size and fit it.


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## rxh

Richard,
The thread is 1/4" ME, 32 TPI.


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## Togalosh

Very nice indeed ..& very bright ! 8) 

Could you give a brief outline of how you made it or post some WIP pics please?

..it's the wavey sides I can't guess at.


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## rxh

Thanks, Tosh.
Here are some WIP pics of the rear infill, as requested. as you can see, it is made of three pieces glued together.
I shaped the handle using paring chisel, chip carving knives, small rasps, a Dremel tool with small sanding drum and abrasive paper. After gluing the three pieces I cleaned up the bottom and sloping face by planing, drilled the large hole with a Forstner bit and chiselled out the recess. Then I put in the pivot tube and brass disc.


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## Togalosh

Ahh.. I thought the whole rear infill was from one block..which now that I think about it is a tall order. How is the handle jointed to the unfill?

I'm now also impressed by the immaculate working conditions you keep.

Thanks for the pics.


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## rxh

Here is the back iron fitted to the blade.

Togs,
When I have reduced the infill so that it fits in the steelwork I propose to drill into it through the holes in the sides and hopefully the holes will meet in the middle. Then I'll remove the infill and enlarge the holes using special drill bits that I have made to follow the pilot holes without wandering - I have practiced this on scrap wood. Brass tubes will then be inserted in the holes and the infill will be replaced in the steelwork. Steel rods will then go right through and will be peined over to complete the attachment.
I am not always very tidy - I tend to have a bit of a brush-up before taking photos :wink:


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## rxh

Here is the completed adjuster and the front infill. The adjuster has a peg that fits into a hole through the bolt that holds the back iron to the blade - this was easier to make than a "banjo". I haven't tried this arrangement before but if I'm not satisfied with it I'll replace it with a banjo. I have used the pivot tube idea before and it worked well. My overall aim was to make a mechanism that works well with very little backlash.


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## jimi43

Very...very....very...very...BEAUTIFUL!!!

=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> 

Jimi


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## rxh

Jim,
Belated thanks for your comment.  
I have been on my travels and I got distracted with refurbishing some second hand tools I found. However, this weekend I got back to plane making.

Here are the latest pictures.


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## jimi43

Nice progress mate...yes it is rather daunting when you go from both sides but this really is the best way.

I don't bother now as I have the mill which will drill perfectly straight but I remember doing a few jobs before that luxury and it was a bit worrying having spent a vast amount of time getting the infill right. :shock: 

Keep the updates coming...it's going really nicely....and a wonderful photo essay which others can copy down the line.

Jimi


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## Jelly

Having admired the beauty of what you're creating there, I'm beginning to get why infills are so sought after...

I also have another dense question... Would it not be possible to just use a length of of channel obviating the need to dovetail the sides?


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## rafezetter

I can't imagine the amount of hours it has taken you to get this far - a stunning piece of workmanship that far belies the fact it's your first one. If were given such a thing I'd not use it but make a display case for it instead! The dovetail joints look invisible to me, the whole thing fully deserving of un-british chest swelling pride


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## Richard T

Good stuff rxh - how's the lever cap coming on? Do you plan to pivot all the way through or put a pin in either side?


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## rxh

Jimi, Jelly, Rafezetter & Richard,
Many thanks for your comments.  

Jimi,
Yes, I was glad to get the infill in place OK. Taking the photos has made a useful record for me – often in the past I have forgotten the details of what I have done and then had to “reinvent the wheel” later.

Jelly,
Your question about the use of channel is very interesting and I wonder if anyone has tried this method. I think the main difficulty would be a finding suitable size. Steel channel seems to come in two main types: rolled (which has tapered sides) and “parallel flange” (which appears to be folded from flat plate and has rounded outer corners and would thus be a non-starter). The rolled type is available in certain standard sizes but none seems to be suitable, e.g. the 76mm x 38mm size would be wide enough for a 2 3/8” blade but the sides would be rather thick and not be high enough to carry the holes for mounting the lever cap. I also wonder if stresses trapped during the manufacturing process might cause distortion to occur after the sides are cut to shape.

Rafezetter,
I haven’t kept count of the hours but yes, they would add up to quite a few. However, working in my shed, listening to the radio and looking out on my garden is a pleasure for me. As you will see from the earlier posts in this thread, I have had a lot of helpful advice and encouragement in my efforts. The dovetails (and a few defects) can be seen if you look closely at the real thing rather than a photo.

Richard,
The lever cap is at an early stage, as you can see from the photo below – there is some serious filing still to do. I plan to have a stepped pin on either side with a spring in between so as to allow the lever cap to be removable. The thread is 3/8" BSW - did you get any further with your ACME thread problem?


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## Richard T

rxh wrote:
_Jelly,
Your question about the use of channel is very interesting and I wonder if anyone has tried this method_

Late Norris 8) 

_did you get any further with your ACME thread problem?
_

Errrr ... yerss and no .... I have ordered a bespoke matching tap and die for 1/2" 14 tpi square thread from a firm that is very local to me. Turns out the only other firm capable of such things in Europe is in Germany. Don't ask how much ... 

I think I said in the lever cap thread that the best tool I have found for shifting large amounts of brass is a curved Dreadnought. A flat one will hardly touch it. I speak from very recent experience as I have spent the whole day today making a lever cap.  
The sprung pins are very snazzy. I think I will slot and screw mine.


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## rafezetter

Richard T":142y1crr said:


> rxh wrote:I think I said in the lever cap thread that the best tool I have found for shifting large amounts of brass is a curved Dreadnought. A flat one will hardly touch it. I speak from very recent experience as I have spent the whole day today making a lever cap.
> The sprung pins are very snazzy. I think I will slot and screw mine.



I curious as I dabble very lightly with metal work, just a few n ends, nothing brass or bronze though - you mentioned that the brass you bought was soft "only the most vicious (and 'bristly' if you will) tools would make any significant cut".

How so? I don't understand how softer = more difficult to shape. 

Your plane Richard also looks great (but I prefer the bright orange of RXH;s wood !)


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## Richard T

rafezetter - s'right .... Brass maybe softer than Iron or steel but won't be cut by tools designed for the former.

A flat Dreadnought file will be great for a flat surface on a chunk of iron but will make no impact whatsoever on a similar cut of Brass. I don't know why ... it just doesn't. Try it. 

I am tempted to try a rasp. (bristly) 

Brass is an alloy of Copper and Zink. Bronze is an alloy of Copper and Tin - never tried it. Much harder.


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## rxh

Richard,
Yes, some tools that work OK on steel are no good on brass. Once a file has been used on steel it seems less effective on brass - skating over the surface rather than biting in. The same applies to hacksaw blades.

I completed the lever cap today - see photos below. I worked through eight grades of abrasive paper then used a buffing wheel.


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## Richard T

Hey, Lovely. Those round bits around the round bit around the bolt hole are 'fun' to get right aren't they?


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## Scouse

Richard T":2nicu61u said:


> ... Those round bits around the round bit around the bolt hole...



The problem with threads like this is the amount of technical jargon used which us mere mortals just don't understand! :lol: 

Lovely work though...


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## rxh

Richard,
Thanks for your comments. Yes, it took me a while to get the shape to my satisfaction. A good light, soothing music and no disturbances helped.  

Scouse, thanks for your comments too. :lol: 

I put it all together temporarily to see how it looks. The rear infill is now riveted into place but I removed the front infill to get access for completing the shaping of the mouth.

The remaining tasks are:
-	Continue opening up the front of the mouth until the blade and a shaving will go through.
-	Fit blade centralising pads inside the throat.
-	Find or make a better spring to go between the pivot pins in the lever cap.
-	Sharpen the blade.
-	Try making shavings!
-	Adjust mouth and back iron as necessary until good shavings are obtained.
-	General clean and polish.

I’m not entirely pleased with the front infill and I may make a different one. However, this one will do for test purposes.


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## MickCheese

Wow, that is absolutely beautiful. You have considerable skill. 

I love it. Even if it never worked it is a piece of art. 

Congratulation

Mick


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## Richard T

=D> Well done rxh

Have you lapped it yet? Depending on the escape angle, lapping will open the mouth a little. Worth bearing in mind.
Ron Brese reckons on a gap of 4 thou' but I shouldn't worry about having a mouth so tight rather concentrate on getting it square. 

I hope you have had a go with springless bits of bar in for pivots just to test the squareness - I know I would have. 

Fantastic achievement matey .... any plans for the next one?  

My tap and die is due on the 20th of this month apparently ......


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## Racers

Hi rxh

Its a looker for sure, now get it lapped and make some shavings!

I know what you mean about the front infill its not right, may be a bit of slope on the bun would look go, sort of like its doing 100 MPH even at standstill.

Pete


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## rxh

Mick, Richard and Pete,
Thanks for your kind comments  

I have done the lapping and mouth filing - the filing took quite a while as I was being careful not to go too far. I sharpened the blade and took the first shavings of beech (measuring about 0.5mm or 2 thou thick). I fiddled around with the lever cap attachment quite a bit – I couldn't find a spring with enough strength to make the pins engage with the holes in the sides properly so I came up with an alternative arrangement that screws apart and this works well. I made two “blade centralisers” out brass and these fit into threaded holes in the sides with their heads inside the throat. Also temporarily fitted is the Mk.II front infill – it is more comfortable to hold and allows more space for the hand between it and the lever cap knob.

So I’m nearly there now. I’ll probably leave it a while before making the next plane but I’m starting to think of a brass sided mitre plane……

PS Richard, I’d be very interested to hear how you get on with the square threads.


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## rxh

Correction: the shavings were about 0.05mm thick.


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## Richard T

Good stuff rxh 

The due date for the tap and die is the 22nd of July. I'll keep you posted.


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## rxh

Here it is: the finished article.

Thanks to all readers for their interest, comments and advice.


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## G S Haydon

I will confess to not keeping up to date with this one but what a wonderful end result. Top marks!


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## marcros

i love that padauk. I am going to have to find a project to use some of that- if i can source some boards.


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## Harbo

Great job - lovely workmanship.


Rod


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## Togalosh

Wow - that is handsome ! 

I like the wave-like front handle (?). I also looks like it's a pleasure to use.

Very well done.

Togs


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## AndyT

Brilliant stuff! Having seen the thought and attention to detail that you put into it, I can imagine how pleased you must be. I am sure it will give you pleasure every time you use it. 

I especially liked your ingenious expanding pivot bar.


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