# Home made scroll saw bench slope or not to slope?



## Apache_sim (9 Aug 2013)

Very new to scroll sawing ... so new I have just taken delivery of my saw today.
For the next week or so I will be using it at my workbench and standing up.

I would like to make a stand for it so that I don't have to keep lugging it from its stored position to the bench each time.

I have found loads of links to home made benches and many via this forum.

My question is does the slope of the stand enhance the useability or is this more of a cosmetic thing.
I would be worried that even a small slope will start to move the top of the blade mechanism into my line of sight and force me to adopt an unusual neck contortion to view around to the side.

Does anyone use a stand with a slope and if so have they noticed wether the view is obstructed?

Thanks


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## Chippygeoff (9 Aug 2013)

I used a friends saw that was mounted on a sloping top and I just could not see any advantage. Both my saws are on flat surfaces and I think the majority of scrollers are the same as me. A tip for you when you make your bench. The ideal height is to have the table of the saw level with your elbows when they are down your side. Also take into account what you will be sitting on, ideally an adjustable height stool. Hope this helps.


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## loftyhermes (9 Aug 2013)

My saw is on a slope and I find it easier to see the pattern and I don't seem to ache as much as when cutting on the flat. you could give it a try by putting a piece of wood under the back of the saw to see if it suits you. Mine has ended up being raised 2" which I find comfortable.
happy scrolling
Steve


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## mac1012 (9 Aug 2013)

so what saw did you get and where from ? I have my hegner on a flat surface 

mark


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## Apache_sim (9 Aug 2013)

The story of me and the scroll saw I ended up with, covers the last 6 days and 3 saws.... Just set up my new Hegner 1.
Started with a Peugot From my local tool shop. This proved vibrate excessively although a very solid saw, quite difficult to change the blade. Took this back and ordered the Axminster AWSF18 Hegner look alike. A very solid and very Heavy saw, I also thought this vibrated excessivly even with good absorption material underneath.
So the Hegner it is, much lighter than the AWSF18 and quite a lot smaller. So I did listen in the end to the many forum users who voted unequivocally for the Hegner. I should have listened in the first place.

Time to hit YouTube and a couple of scroll saw books I have bought and start reducing bits of wood to dust.... And the odd dolphin..
Can't wait
Thanks to everyone who has given their advice so freely.


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## mac1012 (9 Aug 2013)

well at least now you know 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 

I have mine bolted down at 2 points on the hegner any scroll is best to be bolted down , I can never understand with cheaper end manufacturers why they don't just put a little more thought and design into the blade clamps I sure then these little machines would be fairly ok 

on my old treadle machine it has wing nut clamps that are easy to use if they managed it 50 years ago ..........

mark


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## mac1012 (9 Aug 2013)

I know you will enjoy the machine , if you can run to it after your expense get quick release clamp from hegner about 30 notes with postage don't wait a year like I did and then wish I had it sooner ! 

a lot of new people to scroll sawing ask whats the difference with quick release clamp surely it just a knurled knob instead of using clock key ?? 

in a word no its more than that buy it and you will see the difference and as I have said to others if you don't like it I will buy it off you as a spare ..... nobodys took me up on that yet .....

mark


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## ChrisR (9 Aug 2013)

Why not get a Hegner dedicated three leg stand, the saw will sit with the table horizontal, it is purpose made for the job, being three legs (tripod) it will accommodate an uneven floor surface, (ie not having to pack a leg to stop rocking). 
I purchased a stand with my Hegner, many moons ago, and have never regretted purchasing it.

If you are going to do inside cutting, you are definitely going to need a quick release blade clamp, it may seem expensive, but will give good service, before writing this I looked to see when I purchased my last one, but can find no record, so it has to be before 2004, and its been in daily use, so not expensive.

You will find this instruction in your Hegner manual and it is important.:- Only use the quick clamp for inside cuts, this clamp will need to be held tight by the top clamp screw, but when making outside cuts use the standard clamp, this clamp should not be held tight by the clamp screw, but allowed to pivot freely. (That is not as good wording as the manual, but same meaning). 

If you do not follow this instruction, no great disaster will occur, it will just give you a slightly better blade life with the top clamp being free to pivot, on outside cuts.

Take care, and enjoy using your Hegner.

Chris R.


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## scrimper (10 Aug 2013)

ChrisR":2toodcm6 said:


> Why not get a Hegner dedicated three leg stand, the saw will sit with the table horizontal, it is purpose made for the job, being three legs (tripod) it will accommodate an uneven floor surface, (ie not having to pack a leg to stop rocking).
> I purchased a stand with my Hegner, many moons ago, and have never regretted purchasing it.
> 
> If you are going to do inside cutting, you are definitely going to need a quick release blade clamp, it may seem expensive, but will give good service, before writing this I looked to see when I purchased my last one, but can find no record, so it has to be before 2004, and its been in daily use, so not expensive.
> ...



I don't have the metal stand having made my own work table for my Hegner but it was explained to me by one of the people who *used* to operate Hegner UK (think his name was Roger Buse?) that a metal stand reduces the vibration of the saw much better than a stand made of wood, something to do with the frequency of oscillation.

Have to agree with the quick release blade clamp, I never use anything else, also the quick release lever on the top arm is indispensable, (some of the older Hegners don't have one) My Diamond has a knurled nut to re tension the blade and after using the Hegner quick release tension lever and after using the Hegner adjusting the blade tension on the Diamond becomes annoying.


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## mac1012 (10 Aug 2013)

chris had a look in my instruction booklet got the saw in 2009 it dosent say anything in regards to only using quick release for internal cuts , it does say recommend for internal cuts and calls it piercing work clamp but dosent warn specifically to switch between the two on the standard clamp instruction it does tells you how to set them up but no instruction as to internal or external 

I don't doubt what your saying but was curious as I couldn't remember seeing it in mine , I just use quick release for both my cuts I just find it easier for me 

mark


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## ChrisR (10 Aug 2013)

Mark.

I can’t quote from my instruction book, because I am unable to locate it, many years since I purchased the saw.
There is no problem using the quick blade clamp for all work, and if I am on a project with a lot of inside cuts, with a small amount of outside cuts to finish then I continue to use the quick clamp. But the quick clamp having to be fixed by the top clamp screw is a compromise all be it small. The standard blade clamp being able to pivot insures a near perfect parallel blade action, again it is only a small correction, because as all of us Hegner owners know, the near perfect parallel blade action, is where Hegner is King. =D> 


Scrimper.

Yes you are correct, it was Roger Buse, and his late wife that held the UK Hegner dealership, a lovely couple to do deal with, you were treated as part of the Hegner family, not just the next customer, they were always interested in what project you were using your saw for, and also any hints or tips you had, that could be shared with other Hegner users.

Take care both.

Chris R.


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## Apache_sim (10 Aug 2013)

Not sure I could run to the Hegner stand at the moment, I thinks it is £175... I could make a hell of a wooden stand for that money. I am currently running the my New Hegner on my workbench without bolting or clamping down, there is a small amount of vibration but not what I would call excessive. I did try it with a thin anti slip mat, but this appeared to make the vibes worse. Also tried a thicker rubber mat but the saw travelled along the bench on the mat, I think this is because it was too soft.

This is only day two of ownership, but I had a go at a butterfly with pierced wings, despite not having the quick release clamp just yet I did not find it too much trouble to release from the top with the key.

I am really pleased with the two items I have made today, even with the few mistakes. I can only get better ....I hope!!!


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## Apache_sim (10 Aug 2013)

This is a quote form the Hegner website re the quick release clamp, 
"The Quick Clamp can be mounted in the top arm of your Hegner scrollsaw. *Especially useful for inside cuts.* The blade can be threaded through a small hole drilled in the work piece and easily fixed into the quick clamp without the use of the clamp key.

When fitting a standard blade clamp into your Hegner scrollsaw the top arm knurled screw should be adjusted so as loosely retain the blade clamp to prevent it being ejected should the blade break. The standard blade clamp MUST be allowed to pivot on their sharp edge to ensure the blade is kept perfectly straight and vertical while the arms oscillate.

However the Quick Clamp should be rigidly fixed in the top arm – _there are rotating bearing surfaces within the quick clamp which allow the blade to pivot,_ maintaining the correct geometry, while being securely held."

My new manual only says "We recommend using the special clamp for internal cutting" no mention of not using for external cuts.


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## martinka (10 Aug 2013)

I see the manual from Hegner UK costs £7.19 but in the US it's free to download from Advanced Machinery. 

One thing I noticed in the US manual is the part about tightening the blade in the clamps where it says turn the key another 12th of a turn to tighten it. I assume they mean from when you first feel the bolt contact the blade, although it doesn;'t actually say that. It also points out that a 12th of a turn is the same as 1 hour on a clock. I can't help thinking that if you need to be told that, you really shouldn't be going near cutting tools, or tools of any description, come to that.

Martin.


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## scrimper (10 Aug 2013)

Apache_sim":2ta7vpzz said:


> Not sure I could run to the Hegner stand at the moment, I thinks it is £175... I could make a hell of a wooden stand for that money.



I quite agree that is a ridiculous amount to have to pay for a stand. IMHO between £30 - £50 would be a fairer price for such a simple item. :shock:


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## Apache_sim (10 Aug 2013)

Axminster do a couple of stands, one for £32 and an Excaliber one for £75. The cheaper one gets a very poor review from one purchaser, both are also 4 legs so no self levelling.

I guess I will proceed with a jake the peg stand in wood


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## scrimper (11 Aug 2013)

FWIW I made my stand in the form of a cupboard with a drawer at the top for the accessories, the Hegner overhangs the front so as to leave legroom. I even put rollers under it so that it can be moved about in the workshop, I don't suffer with any vibration using this method, I did use substantial timber for the framework however.


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## Apache_sim (11 Aug 2013)

Scrimper, I was wondering if rubber wheels would work, I also like the idea of a cupboard and draw, I may copy your idea and do the same. When you say substantial wood are we talking 4x2 or 3x1.5 (or metric equivalents)


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## martinka (11 Aug 2013)

scrimper":1th6lf8h said:


> FWIW I made my stand in the form of a cupboard with a drawer at the top for the accessories, the Hegner overhangs the front so as to leave legroom. I even put rollers under it so that it can be moved about in the workshop, I don't suffer with any vibration using this method, I did use substantial timber for the framework however.



A picture is worth a thousand words.


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## scrimper (11 Aug 2013)

I have actually made 4 such units for my workshop and they are very convenient, one for the Hegner another for my Diamond fretsaw and two others which both support router tables, the router tables are at different heights and therefore one table overlaps the other hence space saving whilst in use I just pull one or other forward so that the cutter is clear of the other table. the cupboard of one contains a dust extractor for both.

I will try to post a picture if I can.

I use whatever wheels are in my junk box, being a scrimper I make use of stuff that I have scavenged from scrapped washing machines ( I used to repair them so have plenty) and early model Hoover vacs were equipped with very good quality heavy duty Bakelite wheels (not the cheap plastic ones used today!).


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## ChrisR (12 Aug 2013)

Scrimper.

I know exactly where you are coming from, when I worked as an industrial electrical eng, I always saved any machine screws from defective switch gear/breakers, contactors etc, also copper buss bars, brass plates etc, one big snag, continually having to convince the wife that it will all be useful one day. :roll: 
When working it was known as the get me out the s**t spares box, two to three in the morning, you need to fix quick, without a backup stores to call on. 

Sorry a bit of topic.


Take care.

Chris R.


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## scrimper (12 Aug 2013)

ChrisR":17pl9mah said:


> Scrimper.
> 
> I know exactly where you are coming from, when I worked as an industrial electrical eng, I always saved any machine screws from defective switch gear/breakers, contactors etc, also copper buss bars, brass plates etc, one big snag, continually having to convince the wife that it will all be useful one day. :roll:
> When working it was known as the get me out the s**t spares box, two to three in the morning, you need to fix quick, without a backup stores to call on.
> ...



So glad I am not the only one! I also save brass and copper from electrical fittings I even have a drawer of various brass pins from plus in different sizes such as 2a 5a 15a and 13a believe it or not I use them as bearings for the whirligigs I make, hammer one into a hole and the hole where the wire goes makes a good bearing for a shaft. 

I am lucky in that we have lot's of space here and I have a special shed to store all my 'scrimped' items.

I never throw anything away without stripping it down and removing any useful bits to be saved in my shed!


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## ChrisR (12 Aug 2013)

Scrimper.

We must be long lost brothers.

We are just to much alike. :? 

I am going to tell the wife, she thinks I am the only one. (hammer) 


Take care.

Chris R.


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## martinka (12 Aug 2013)

I recently got 3 printers and a photocopier, all working, from Freecycle. I stripped them down for all the bits and even cut the plastics up with the scroll saw so I could save the usable bits. There must be a thousand tiny screws, all the same size, but I won't throw them away. Trouble is, I can never find that part that I need, like the bump stop for the Hegner top arm at the back, and I am going to begrudge paying 2 quid for a new one. 
Martin.


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