# WIP : Tall Storage Unit



## billw (12 May 2009)

Well here it is - my first attempt at putting pictures of my work on this site :shock: 

A bit of background to this piece. I spotted the picture which inspired me on Fine Woodworking's website in the gallery and immediately got ideas above my station in trying to make a copy of it. At the time I was just coming to the end of my first piece, a shaker style table (see Ironballs' thread on his table, mine's like that except in maple and with "slightly" less talent involved) and needed to decide what to do next.

Being an accountant I actually did the design and measurements in Excel - yes it IS possible 8) - and from there drew up my cutting list.

I've now been working on the project since last autumn, albeit with some VERY slow progress. I do have some photos from the start, but the ones I have got on this thread were all taken on Monday and given my lack of progress it'spossible to see pretty much everything right back to the beginning!

So, here's what I've done to date.

1. The uprights. These are about 1900mm tall and 48x48 square. It was a bit of a challenge getting some walnut in the right size and then praying that it wouldn't warp! Getting them cut to size wasn't the hard bit - it was my absolute insistence that I did all the through mortices by hand. This took me weeks and weeks and weeks but I think it is worth it as the feeling of satisfaction when I tidied up the last one was fantastic.

2. The front and back rails. I've just got these cut to size at the moment, with the through tenons cut and fitted roughly.

3. The side rails. These are fitted in by tenons, the mortice of which cuts into the through tenon, hence they had to be tidied up once fitted to ensure they didn't interfere with the through tenons.

4. The panels. These are essentialyl just 10mm thick panels which fit into a groove on each side (and the rear, but I've not done those yet). They're not bookmatched but I have been relatively lucky in that the 4 pieces I cut all came from a 3" thick board (yes I know, a LOT of waste!) and therefore look, if I say so myself, pretty good now they're glued up in pairs and cut to size.

So, enough of the waffle. The next post is the photos.....


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## billw (12 May 2009)

Picture 1 - side panel 2 components







The sides are relatively simple. The panel (still with glue as it was barely dry) fits into a 6mm deep groove that was done by machine. The two rails fit into the uprights by way of tenon. The through tenons are obvious I guess :wink: 

Picture 2 - dry fit of side panel 2






The top is nearest the front of this photo. It seems to fit well together. And yes, that is indeed a knothole bang in the middle of the side panel. I call it a feature  

Picture 3 - dry fit again






This shows the panel the right way up. My next task is to finish off the planing and sanding then get it glued up.

Picture 4 - side panel 1






Yes that ugly pipper is indeed me. Note the classy tool carrying device I have. Oh and those are Stanley chisels  

This is the first panel which is glued up and pretty much finished. I've had a few troubles with it - the glue holding the panel onto the top and bottom rails didn't hold so the panel moves but luckily it's a fairly tight fit. There's a few imperfections - the through tenon doesn't correctly line up with the bottom rail on one side, it's about 2mm out, and the top rail isn't perfectly level although it's damned hard to spot and it's within my tolerance limit.


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## billw (12 May 2009)

Picture 5 - the first side with the through tenons






So here is one side propped up with the front and back rails. The one at the bottom are all the way through and fit snugly (see photo later) but some some reason the top ones have become a bit tight, and I didn't want to force them through hence why they're not fully fitted.

Picture 6 - top through tenon






The ends will be rounded so I'm not too fussed about the nicks on the end. I am quite pleased that the fit isn't too bad - given I did all the morticing with a slightly blunt 1" chisel and a mallet they're not turned out too bad at all.

Picture 7 - bottom through tenons fully fitted






The bottoms ones fitted all the way through. The top and bottom rails are around 2mm set back from the uprights, and the panel is another 3mm back from the rails. I had originally planned to have the whole frame flush and the panel set back 5mm, but it looked a little bit too plain.


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## billw (12 May 2009)

Picture 8 - the inside of the bottom corner






The back rail has got some tear out at the end and the fit isn't perfect, but it does at least meet with the side rail at the same height, give or take a millimetre!

Picture 9 - close up of bottom through tenons






You can see some of the problems I've had with tear out on this photo - I opted to not get bogged down in trying to remove all the tear out else I'd have been planing and sanding for another 2 years. I know it's clearly not the ideal scenario but I'm going to get it constructed and then spend more time seeing where I can reduce the problems.

Picture 10 - through tenon






The top and bottom of the through tenons should line up perfectly with the top and bottom of the side rail. I say "should".....  

Picture 11 - exploded view of corner






This shows how the side rails fit into the uprights - the mortice goes right the way through to meet the through mortice. You can also see the groove routed to fit the side panel into.


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## Chems (13 May 2009)

I'm not getting any pictures?


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## billw (13 May 2009)

What this piece has taught me.

1. Tear out is a pain! I've had huge problems with it and it's become a bit of a frustration. I fully appreciate that the tools I'm using aren't the best you can buy, which isn't helping. I won't go so far as blaming the machines for doing it - but those damned students probable blunt them all :wink: 

2. Getting measurements perfect is an art as well as a science. Even when I checked and double-checked and cross-checked the position of the mortices against each upright that it related to, they were still slightly out. The main problem was the top and bottom experienced some differences. For the sides I made a couple of jigs which I clamped to the side of the mortice when cleaning them out to try and help get them all level, which seems to have worked. 

What is left to do.....

1. Glue up the second side panel
2. Make the rear panel
3. Tidy up the front and back rails
4. Make the top panel
5. Glue up the rest of the carcass
6. Make pegs for through tenons
7. Fit pegs for through tenons
8. Put the stops in for the floor panel to rest on
9. Make and fit floor panel
10. Make doors *
11. Fit doors
12. Make and fit shelves
13. Apply finish
14. Weep with joy
15. Realise tears have caused finish to run and ruin entire piece

*whilst this is one step, it's actually a bit more complex.... the main door frames are walnut, the central panels are spalted beech, the top and bottom smaller panels are holly, and the decorative details and handles are ebony. They're going to take a while


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## billw (13 May 2009)

Chems":p774rb6r said:


> I'm not getting any pictures?



:? Try going directly to http://www.wignall.org/images and they should all be listed there.


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## Ironballs (13 May 2009)

I can see your pics Bill and remember, it's a glory hole, not a knot hole :wink:


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## Chems (13 May 2009)

I tried everything they weren't showing. They are now. Looks great! Thats a very complex piece you are attempting and looks like its going to come out really well.


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## OPJ (13 May 2009)

Looking good so far. I do like that book-matched panel; that knot couldn't have appeared in a better place! :wink: When you chopped the mortises, did you remove most of the waste with a smaller diameter drill bit first? It would save a LOT of work!  If you're making a through mortise, you should also drill from both sides to prevent breakout. Your results do look good though.


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## billw (13 May 2009)

OPJ":1afwqo00 said:


> Looking good so far. I do like that book-matched panel; that knot couldn't have appeared in a better place! :wink: When you chopped the mortises, did you remove most of the waste with a smaller diameter drill bit first? It would save a LOT of work!  If you're making a through mortise, you should also drill from both sides to prevent breakout. Your results do look good though.



Thanks 8) As for the through mortices, every last cut on all 8 of them was by hand :shock:


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## maltrout512 (13 May 2009)

Well looking good. Breakout is a problem, but to limit it a waste piece of wood under the mortice will help there. Sharp tools and fine cuts on the tenons help a little there. Anyway as said looks good.


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## John. B (13 May 2009)

Well I'm impressed! :lol: I'm not a keen furniture maker.
I turn therefore I am.  I particularly like the bookmatching sides.
If only I could do as well.  

John. B


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## Lord Nibbo (13 May 2009)

I can't see nuffin either.


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## DaveL (13 May 2009)

Bill,

Is your domain newly setup? 
I get a DNS lookup error, it might not have propagated everywhere yet.


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## Steve Maskery (13 May 2009)

Nothing here either 
S


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## billw (13 May 2009)

OK do they appear now?


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## DaveL (13 May 2009)

billw":3t7nb64t said:


> OK do they appear now?


For me they do. 
Nice work, worth the wait, well done. 8)


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## 9fingers (13 May 2009)

DaveL":1zrkswts said:


> Bill,
> 
> Is your domain newly setup?
> I get a DNS lookup error, it might not have propagated everywhere yet.



I get the same DNS error too Dave.
Strange as the domain seems to have been set up in April 2000?

Still I can see the pictures on the forum and I note they are hosted somewhere else.

Ah! the mysteries of the interweb!!
Bob


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## Digit (14 May 2009)

Looks as though we are in for some stiff competion chaps! :lol: 

Roy.


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## jhwbigley (14 May 2009)

Hang on! is that Leeds Art and Design?? 

John


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## billw (14 May 2009)

jhwbigley":3dr3dsbu said:


> Hang on! is that Leeds Art and Design??
> 
> John



Yup. It is indeed.


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## maltrout512 (14 May 2009)

Oh :lol: :lol:


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## jhwbigley (15 May 2009)

billw":h004oxm0 said:


> jhwbigley":h004oxm0 said:
> 
> 
> > Hang on! is that Leeds Art and Design??
> ...



thought it looked familiar, i'll be starting there in September  


John


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## woodbloke (15 May 2009)

billw":l91j5pzr said:


> jhwbigley":l91j5pzr said:
> 
> 
> > Hang on! is that Leeds Art and Design??
> ...


Richard Jones of this parish is there I believe - Rob


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## jhwbigley (15 May 2009)

woodbloke":2lhyd3kn said:


> billw":2lhyd3kn said:
> 
> 
> > jhwbigley":2lhyd3kn said:
> ...



yes, a great person to meet. 


John


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## billw (15 May 2009)

Are you doing a full time course? I probably won't run into you if so as I just do a Monday evening one.


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## joiner_sim (15 May 2009)

Looking good, you got on well with the comp entry so far!


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## jhwbigley (16 May 2009)

billw":3o30d941 said:


> Are you doing a full time course? I probably won't run into you if so as I just do a Monday evening one.



yeah full time, cant wait! 

John


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## billw (19 May 2009)

Monday Leeds Update (from Belgium on Tuesday, to keep you on your toes)

The second side panel (as seen in the photos previously) has now been glued up. The cross check showed both diagonals were equal, although using a square showed one of the rails meets the uprights at 90deg and the other one doesn't, but it's not a critical difference.

As a double check, once it was cramped up I laid the first side on the top to see whether the through mortices line up - and I believe that they're as near as damnit, even taking into account the "not quite square" nature of the rails.

I've got the boards ready for the "ceiling" panel (is there a proper name for this?) so they'll get glued up next week and cut down to size once the routing has been done on the frame.

Once that's out the way my next task is the panelling for the back, which is going to involve quite a bit of walnut so that might take a while.

There's 6 weeks left in the term now, so I'm planning my time as follows :-

Week 1. Glue up ceiling panel, route the groove for said panel. Start cutting back panels.

Week 2. Finish cutting back panels and get them glued up. Plane and sand the front and back rails. Cut mortices in F&R rails for the pegs to go.

Week 3. Dry fit carcass and glue together. Start to make pegs. 

Week 4. Cut and glue up floor panels, and the blocks on which it'll rest. Continue with pegs.

Week 5. Finish pegs and test fit through mortices. This completes the main carcass of the project which I'll sand down and make good over the summer break.

Week 6. Cut all pieces of timber necessary for the two doors and take it all home to work on out of term time. Hopefully, after buying some tools, I should be in a position to go back at the start of next term ready to glue them up and plane them down so they fit into the carcass.

This should give me enough time to complete the project before the closing date, although the fact I'm going on holiday for two weeks in September might throw a horrible spanner in the works.


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## Mattty (19 May 2009)

That look's like a serious project mate. Very oriental. I like that a lot.


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## billw (26 May 2009)

Quick update

I was flicking through an old copy of Good Woodworking last night and noticed that they were doing a project which used the same hinges that I'm planning on using in mine.

What a stroke of luck! Turns out the hinges need to be flush fitted into the doors and therefore the doors need to be fitted at the point at which the carcass is glued up, whereas I'd planned to do the carcass and then fit the doors afterwards.

This completely shafts my timetable as there's no way I'm going to get the doors finished this side of the summer break. Ho hum. Have also realised the closing date is the end of October, so I'm reckoning on having about 20 hours of work time next term in which to get the whole thing finished. It's going to be tight.


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## billw (1 Jun 2009)

According to my latest plan it should have been....

Week 1. Glue up ceiling panel, rout the groove for said panel. Start cutting back panels. 

---

Well I did glue up the ceiling panel so ticked that off. I didn't rout the groove because when I arrived at college I couldn't resist dry fitting the carcass up, but it was a bit tight and I was half scared of pulling it apart again so I just left it standing (will do photo later this week).

I couldn't cut the back panel as there was no stock large enough in the college stock so I've had to order it. Additionally I need to source some sycamore panels for the doors so I can feel another trip to English Hardwoods coming on as I need to pick up some wood for the next project anyhow.

To compensate for the bits I hadn't do, I skipped forward to Week 6's plan and started cutting bits for the doors. I've got all the horizontal walnut parts planed up, and one of the spalted beech panels. Sadly the other panel I had didn't quite go to plan as it was a smidgeon too thin in a couple of places and I'll need to get another one.

Next week's plan was :-

Week 2. Finish cutting back panels and get them glued up. Plane and sand the front and back rails. Cut mortices in F&R rails for the pegs to go.

I'm not convinced I'll manage the back panels in their entirety, but I should manage to get the front and back rails sorted out and if the morticer doesn't take hours to set up I should be able to those done too. Given I can't spend time gluing up the carcass this term that will affect my week 3 plan, and instead I'll concentrate on getting the doors made.


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## billw (6 Jul 2009)

I realised that it wasn't going to plan when I noticed this thread had dropped to page 6!

Term's now over and I haven't got access to doing anything towards my project until Sept 28th. Over the past few weeks I've managed to make one door and crack one of the uprights on the other door, so I need to make a new one. 

I've got all the pieces cut for the back panel, but not had time to put them through the spindle moulder as I want to lap them. In fact, aside from the fact I have to cut another piece for the door, all the pieces of wood I need to finish the project are pretty much ready for gluing and then cutting to size before dry fit.

In all honesty, I think my hunt for the prize is well and truly over. I need a lot of help from the tutors and that is unlikely to be available in the first weeks of term as there will be plenty of people who need assistance and it would be unfair to expect a large proportion of their time for myself.

Stuff that still needs doing :-

1. back panel lapping and gluing up, then cut to size
2. top panel cutting to size, frame routing to fit panel in
3. first door gluing up
4. second door made and glued
5. floor cut to size and resting blocks putting in place
6. door hinges fitting
7. through mortices for pegs in cross rails
8. pegs finishing and fitting
9. door handles making
10. all the cracked pieces gluing back on
11. full dry fit
12. gluing up
13. apply finish

I hereby officially withdraw from the competition 

The one upside of all of this is that I have decided over the course of the next 12 months to fully kit out a home workshop so I can devote a lot more time to being able to practice my hobby!


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## woodbloke (7 Jul 2009)

billw":3iio64hx said:


> I hereby officially withdraw from the competition
> 
> The one upside of all of this is that I have decided over the course of the next 12 months to fully kit out a home workshop so I can devote a lot more time to being able to practice my hobby!



Whilst I said that I wouldn't comment on any of the WIP threads, I think that one is appropriate here. Commiserations on withdrawing from the Competition and I hope to see the piece completed in your 'shop at home later on - Rob


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## Ironballs (7 Jul 2009)

Bill - if you decide you want to spring any bits of your piece from the college store over the summer and work on it then you're welcome to come and abuse my facilities. Granted you have to maneuver around the cobra, but there's plenty of bits of kit and enough for you to work your piece.

I can provide tea as long as you provide biscuits and beer :wink: 

Might also help you make a few choices about your workshop and kit - number one being don't share it with a car


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## billw (9 Jul 2009)

Cheers Damian, however I am quite looking forward a few weeks off and will probably relish the challenge of getting the damned thing finished when I get back in September!

Either way, the beer sounds a plan if you're at a loose end!


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## billw (9 Jul 2009)

woodbloke":2ajdw73d said:


> Whilst I said that I wouldn't comment on any of the WIP threads, I think that one is appropriate here. Commiserations on withdrawing from the Competition and I hope to see the piece completed in your 'shop at home later on - Rob



You're not the only one hoping to see it finished :lol:


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## billw (9 Nov 2009)

Ho Hum - long time no speak huh?

This term I've made some pretty good progress - the piece now looks like this







All the side panels are now on, and my to-do list has been reduced to :-

1.Add a couple of narrow strips to each side of some of the door panels because I brilliantly cut them too narrow by about 4mm  
2.Glue up the doors, and fill up the gaps. 
3. route the groove for the top panel
4. fit the stop blocks on which to rest the floor panel
5. through mortices for the pegs
6. fit hinges to doors
7. make pegs and door handles

After that little lot it'll be ready for a full dry fitting.

ps just realised I've missed out a lot of sanding and finishing touches, but they go without saying, i.e. I'm trying to pretend I don't have to do them!


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## jhwbigley (9 Nov 2009)

billw":gk08baxh said:


> Ho Hum - long time no speak huh?
> 
> This term I've made some pretty good progress - the piece now looks like this
> 
> ...



saw it the other day, its looking good.

now who got glue all over my bench :x 

JHB


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## Ironballs (9 Nov 2009)

You can almost see the small oak forest that is my chair in component form behind there.

If you drag this one out a bit Bill you'll be able to enter it in the next compo


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## Dave S (9 Nov 2009)

Now that is looking very interesting.  I must admit I had stuggled until now to visualise this, but now I see it I like it.

Looking forward to seeing the conclusion.

cheers
Dave


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## Mattty (9 Nov 2009)

Good to see you back Billy. Those panels look great. Keep the pics coming.


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## wobblycogs (10 Nov 2009)

Wow :shock:, I wasn't convinced I'd like this piece earlier in the thread but I absolutely love that design now it's mostly together. I thought there would be too many different types of wood but they complement one another beautifully. Hope you will post some larger pictures of the finished piece.


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## billw (15 Feb 2010)

Blimey - 3 months since I posted anything! Well there HAS been some progress, slow to say the least but I am now at the stage where I can start to appy a finish to some of the components ready for it to be glued up. 

The walnut is being given a coat of boiled linseed oil before the whole thing is lacquered. 

Only things left to be made are the door handles, and the strips to go across the top and bottom door panels. The hingeshave been bought and I just need to do the rebates to fit them in.

So - here are the latest images.


A close up of the doors - the top and middle panels. The middle is chestnut.







Looking down on the doors (this is all dry fit)






The front - the panel you can see to the right is the back panel - for these photos I'd not fitted the back or top panels but then again you can't see either of them!






And finally from the side






There's been a few "design changes" along the way, mainly to cover up mistakes - the through tenons were changed so that the end was at the same angle as the pegs which I think looks good.

There's about 5 weeks left before the end of term, at which point I am hoping it is all pretty much constructed and has its linseed oil coating on.

It's half-term this week so there won't be any more progress - of course if I had put any thought into it I'd have brought some pieces home and applied the finish to them.


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## billw (20 Mar 2010)

Another update - no pics this time though as I forgot to take some!

I've given the main carcass a coating of boiled linseed oil and it's all looking quite marvellous, next step is to get it lacquered but I need to wait for some tutoring on the subject before I attempt it.

The doors are now glued up and they need a bit of sanding before the linseed oil is applied, then I'll need to fix on the ebony detailing and handles. 

I'm not too far away from finishing it now, hopefully get it all done by the end of next term so I can bring it home before the summer.


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## billw (15 May 2010)

An update with some pics.

First the carcass - this is with one coat of boiled linseed oil, it needs touching up in a few places where the wood's suffered from tear out that I opted not to try and resolve because it was just going to be too much hassle.






I'm using pivot hinges as that's what the original piece used. They weren't cheap but they are gorgeous (and sadly about 90% hidden from view!)

Here's the pics of the hinges in the carcass, not screwed in yet as they'll go in once the lacquer's on.










And finally, here's the doors - sadly I have realised I've got them the wrong way round, so the RH door is the one on the left! The bars across the panels are ebony, and have been fitted flush with the outer frame, they go into the frame by 15mm on either side of the centre panels.







List of things to do 

1. Finish off fitting the hinges to the doors (bit of tidying up after the grooves were routed) and check doors for initial fit.

2. Apply linseed oil to walnut parts of doors

3. Glue ebony bars to doors. Make handles and fix to doors.

4. Finish off the shelves

5. Fit the blocks that the floor panel will sit on.

6. Lacquer it

I've realised how long this has taken me to make, but in reality I only get to spend 3 hours a week on it, and of that 3 hours I would suspect only 2 of them on average were productive, so 60-ish weeks at 2 hours = 120 hours to make. This does include making lots of mistakes!


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## billw (19 May 2010)

Fitted the doors today.

They don't meet in line at the top and there's a 5mm gap between them down the middle. Every piece of wood that could be warped is warped, wasn't noticeable until you attempt to fit them together.

Not sure whether to laugh or cry. Will post pics tomorrow.


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## billw (20 May 2010)

Very much feel like I'm talking to myself :shock: 

So here's the doors fitted. They were a bit too tall, so I skimmed a bit off each of them to accommodate the hinges. Sadly For whatever reason one of the doors wasn't entirely square and the cut has made a delightful triangular gap appear at the top of it. Too late now, live and learn stuff that.

The worst thing is that dry fitting the doors shows they fitted OK. Now there's a chuffing huge gap between them. Where did that come from :shock: 

My solutions currently under consideration are 

1. ignore it, it's not getting sold and I'm more proud of the fact I managed to create something half decent than I am embarrassed about it not being perfect

2. Simply re-drill the screw holes for the hinges on the doors (or the frames) and move the hinges in by 1mm each side, which should just about halve the gap without making the gaps at the side seem enormous, indeed at one side there's absolutely no gap at all, so i could possibly extend to 1.5mm there.

3. On the inside edge of each door, fit a lip of ebony, which will then curve outward from the edge around the middle to form the handles of the doors. A nice little touch, and I can sand down the lips to meet perfectly, even though the edges wouldn't be 100% straight I think the variance would be barely noticeable.















One of the issues is that the two uprights at the front are warped - they both warp the same way so one is pressing against the door and one is bending away from the other.

I had planned to use a middle shelf as a way of pulling the two together and it does to some degree work, although not brilliantly. It rectifies the issues of the gaps on the outside edge of the doors rather than the inside.

I did have thoughts about entering this in the F&C competition that's going on at the moment, but that gap on the top of the RHS door has dented my confidence!


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## TrimTheKing (20 May 2010)

You're not on your own bill, I'm here with you, in spirit 

Is it definitely the doors that are out? Have you checked the internal diagonals at the front to see whether there's a bit of squint in the frame?

A packing piece down the middle, sculpted to take the handles would be a good solution.

You could always take the doors off, get them to fit the opening, then lip _all_ of the door edges to take out the gaps, the plane back to fit...

Keep at it lad, nearly there :wink:


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## woodbloke (20 May 2010)

billw":1bz1ofcy said:


> Fitted the doors today.
> 
> They don't meet in line at the top and there's a 5mm gap between them down the middle. Every piece of wood that could be warped is warped, wasn't noticeable until you attempt to fit them together.
> 
> Not sure whether to laugh or cry. Will post pics tomorrow.


This piece had the potential to be visually stunning, but there were some fundamental errors made. Crucially, the timber wasn't conditioned enough. It may have been technically dry but I suspect that it was machined too soon down to the finished size. I always, always bring timber down to within a couple of mm of finished and then leave it for at least six weeks...if it's going to do anything, that's when it'll do it and you can then sort it out before bringing it down to the final size, preferably by skimming it with a hand plane or very fine cuts on the p/t. 
It's clear to me also that the time element seemed to be rushed as it was done in a limited period each week at college with all the pressures that this sort of situation will inevitably bring. 
Thirdly, I've said this many times but will say it again...making an heirloom piece like this is as much about *thinking* your way through the project as in actually making it. Had you stopped for 30 minutes and made a brew whilst you contemplated the right way to show those doors, you wouldn't have fitted them the wrong way round! 
I'd get the piece finished as best you can and then take stock of the process of making and where it went TU...hopefully you can chalk it up to experience :wink: - Rob


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## TrimTheKing (20 May 2010)

woodbloke":2nr4w0h3 said:


> Had you stopped for 30 minutes and made a brew whilst you contemplated the right way to show those doors, you wouldn't have fitted them the wrong way round!


They're not the wrong way round are they?

I understood it to mean that he had photographed them the wrong way round initially. If you look at the latest set of pics then they are oriented differently on these than the pics where he mentions having them the wrong way round.

:duno:


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## woodbloke (20 May 2010)

TrimTheKing":2mk497ud said:


> woodbloke":2mk497ud said:
> 
> 
> > Had you stopped for 30 minutes and made a brew whilst you contemplated the right way to show those doors, you wouldn't have fitted them the wrong way round!
> ...


Might be Mark...I'll go back and have a looksee - Rob


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## billw (20 May 2010)

Yeah I photographed them the wrong way round, they're fitted correctly.


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## Mattty (20 May 2010)

Looking great mate. The door panel timber is amazing!


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## billw (20 May 2010)

woodbloke":2j6r95vn said:


> billw":2j6r95vn said:
> 
> 
> > Fitted the doors today.
> ...



Those two points are pretty much connected - if I waited for timber to condition what would I do with 6 weeks of my term? The term's only 10 weeks long to start with so losing 6 waiting for timber to dry would be a killer


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## billw (20 May 2010)

TrimTheKing":1hzcddo8 said:


> You could always take the doors off, get them to fit the opening, then lip _all_ of the door edges to take out the gaps, the plane back to fit...
> 
> Keep at it lad, nearly there :wink:



I like that idea - quite a bit of work though!

I think going down the middle with ebony might just work - or I could of course use another piece of walnut but my thoughts were that it would look a bit "glued on" whereas using ebony would make it look more as if it was intentional than a botch job!


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## TrimTheKing (20 May 2010)

billw":1zkz8iki said:


> TrimTheKing":1zkz8iki said:
> 
> 
> > You could always take the doors off, get them to fit the opening, then lip _all_ of the door edges to take out the gaps, the plane back to fit...
> ...


Shouldn't be too much work.

Just decide on how thick you want the lipping around the edges (for example 10mm). Square up doors to same size. Cut back by 7mm all round. Then plane to fit the doors. Should be able to do that in double quick time if you size the lipping right to leave yourself with the minimum amount of planing to do to fettle it.


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## woodbloke (20 May 2010)

billw":1yge1zzn said:


> Those two points are pretty much connected - if I waited for timber to condition what would I do with 6 weeks of my term? The term's only 10 weeks long to start with so losing 6 waiting for timber to dry would be a killer


...and therein lies one, or possibly the main area of concern...time :wink: For severial years I used to run an evening class during term time and this was always the issue with students...ie: can I get it finished and out the door during term time? 
I'd suggest that you have _two_ projects on the go, the large one where the timber has to condition fully in the 'shop and a smaller one (say a casket...plenty of work in those) that you could tuck under your arm at the end of a session and take home. Whilst you're waiting for the big stuff to settle down, you've got something smaller to be working on where the timber is fully conditioned as you'd be storing it at home - Rob


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## billw (20 May 2010)

Aye, my wife would be absolutely delighted in me having a whole production line of unfinished projects :wink:


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## woodbloke (20 May 2010)

billw":cwdi6ep8 said:


> Aye, my wife would be absolutely delighted in me having a whole production line of unfinished projects :wink:


 :lol: - Rob


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## billw (20 May 2010)

A brief update. Discussed with the tutor my disappointment about the doors not aligning at the top. His reply.....

"the floor's not level, if you push the top corner...."

And  well suddenly the door tops lined up and looked fine.  

He agreed with my idea of lipping the inside edge of the doors. I'm going to do that when I've got enough ebony.


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## Ironballs (20 May 2010)

You not done any work at tonights class then Bill  

Timber conditioning is a problem Rob, as good as the workshop facilities are it doesn't help that they're hotter than the surface of the sun. There's no way on god's earth I'm glueing up my chair at the college, it'll be done in my nice cool garage - where I'm free to swear and throw a clamp at the wall when the glue up is all going a bit Pete Tong


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## billw (21 May 2010)

Damian - not on the cabinet no :roll:

I've done all the marking up for project #2. Given the temperature in the workshop was such that I think my skin's blistered just by spending 3 hours there, I am amazed that the wood I idiotically cut right down to size a few weeks back has survived for the vast majority. One or two bits have slightly warped by maybe 1 or 2 mm but I am hoping I'll be able to dampen them down and take them home to dry out.


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## woodbloke (21 May 2010)

Ironballs":3odh3ps4 said:


> ... where I'm free to swear and throw a clamp at the wall when the glue up is all going a bit Pete Tong


Tell me about it :evil: 

Clearly excellent facilities at the college (as you'd expect)...so why isn't the 'shop air conditioned? 8-[ with scantily clad dancing girlies bringing the brews round?

Glue ups would defo go TU then :lol: :lol: - Rob


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## billw (21 May 2010)

woodbloke":1sn155aa said:


> Ironballs":1sn155aa said:
> 
> 
> > ... where I'm free to swear and throw a clamp at the wall when the glue up is all going a bit Pete Tong
> ...



We have Georgina and two large doors that are opened to provide ventilation. It's nearly, but not quite.


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## OPJ (21 May 2010)

Ironballs":2q71kpsv said:


> Timber conditioning is a problem Rob, as good as the workshop facilities are it doesn't help that they're hotter than the surface of the sun. There's no way on god's earth I'm glueing up my chair at the college, it'll be done in my nice cool garage - where I'm free to swear and throw a clamp at the wall when the glue up is all going a bit Pete Tong



Sounds like this is the "standard" for furniture education workshops, today... Our in Bristol is very much the same and I've also read similar comments from other students on this forum. At least it's nice and warm in the winter! 

Assuming you can't break-down your assemblies any more, have you thought about using a glue with a longer open time? As much as we like to struggle on our own sometimes, I do think you would seriously benefit from having a second pair of hands to assemble a chair... (I'm dreading my own chair glue-up, next week! :wink


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## Ironballs (21 May 2010)

I'm dreading the glue up coming shortly that involves 32 spindles and lots of tight joints.

Feel free to PM Richard (Sgian Dubh) with your suggestions for dancing girls :wink:


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## jhwbigley (21 May 2010)

Ironballs":3opimdrp said:


> Feel free to PM Richard (Sgian Dubh) with your suggestions for dancing girls :wink:



:shock: I'd never get any work done


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## billw (22 May 2010)

jhwbigley":1ifebx6x said:


> Ironballs":1ifebx6x said:
> 
> 
> > Feel free to PM Richard (Sgian Dubh) with your suggestions for dancing girls :wink:
> ...



Would anyone notice the difference :wink:


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## billw (10 Jul 2011)

Wow - you probably don't even remember this thread. Well - to be honest neither did I until recently but you'll all be pleased to hear that I finally finished my little project and here it is in all its amateurish glory!


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## Corset (10 Jul 2011)

Wow that looks fantastic. I love the detailing and looks a really lovely choice of wood. Its got the right blance of some nice detailing without swamping the grain.
Superb!
Owen


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## Ironballs (10 Jul 2011)

Glad to see it finished Bill, though that corner of the college is going to look a bit empty after all that while... For those that haven't seen it in the wood it's a lovely piece with beautifully grained contrasting timber, the spalted sycamore (it was sycamore wasn't it?) is fantastic.

Just need to finish that maple shaker style hall table now


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## billw (11 Jul 2011)

It's chestnut 

Table will be making a return next term


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## woodbloke (11 Jul 2011)

Bill, that's a nice piece and I really like the book matched grain on the door panels...spectacular. If I were to be piccy, I'd have to comment and say that the centre door closure gap doesn't look parallel (wider at the top and bottom) and the handles on the doors don't quite 'gel' for me, but it's a nice piece - Rob


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## billw (12 Jul 2011)

Hi Rob, thanks for the comments. The door gap thing perplexed me too, because the doors themselves are straight but I know that the uprights of the frame are not as I was a tad impatient about cutting them down to finished size. Just one of those "live and learn" things I guess.

I suppose putting it into context, this is actually the first finished piece of furniture I've ever made


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## woodbloke (12 Jul 2011)

Looking at the pics again Bill, it's got a very oriental feel to it as well which I like, so I may well secrete some of those design details away somewhere for future use... - Rob


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## Ironballs (12 Jul 2011)

You may not want the glory hole feature that this one has Rob!


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