# Dining table W.I.P



## BTR (17 May 2010)

Hi this is my first w.i.p with and to make a it better i will try and put as much pics as possible.
This is my first large project so here it goes i am making a 5' x 30" dining table out of American oak.
Starting with the top so today i run the wood through the thicknesser and then on to my axminster jointer to square up the edges then finally got it all biscuited and glued using the fast grab glue .


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## woodguy7 (17 May 2010)

Cant see the pictures !


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## adzeman (17 May 2010)

Sorry cant see the pictures


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## BTR (18 May 2010)

There you go i think it was photo bucket uploading them a bit slow


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## Chems (18 May 2010)

Looks great so far, lets have some machine pictures too!


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## Streepips (18 May 2010)

Why didn`t you cut the blue off the ends so you could see which way the growth rings cupped? If they are not alternating you are heading for trouble.
I also built a table from American white oak last year, same method. Dead flat and no splits so far.......and no breadboard either, waste of time.
What will you be using for a finish? I made one up as per Sam Maloof, Very good finish. Recipe if you like.


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## ByronBlack (18 May 2010)

I'd clean the glue of those clamps as soon as you have them free as when it dries fully, it's a real pig to get off.


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## Chems (18 May 2010)

Maybe there cut off on the other end?


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## Streepips (18 May 2010)

Perhaps they are.
I lop them off soon as I start using the board, apart from anything else quite often there are heavy staples in the ends which can make a mess of blades and cutters. Looks nice oak though.


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## woodbloke (18 May 2010)

I'd have been inclined to pull up three boards at a time with a lot more cramps, alternating over and under.
I'm glad you like AWO...I don't. For me English or European is far preferable but probably not quite so readily available in long straight sizes as the 'murrican - Rob


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## Chems (18 May 2010)

Streepips":3159oiw2 said:


> Perhaps they are.
> I lop them off soon as I start using the board, apart from anything else quite often there are heavy staples in the ends which can make a mess of blades and cutters. Looks nice oak though.



Yes also the the end often has checks in it so cut them off little by little to make sure you've removed it all.


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## xy mosian (18 May 2010)

Don't know where I saw this. 
Glue on clamps?
Use that brown packaging sticky tape to line surfaces which will come into contact with PVA, it doesn't stick. 

xy


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## ByronBlack (18 May 2010)

xy mosian":2h7bcu5y said:


> Don't know where I saw this.
> Glue on clamps?
> Use that brown packaging sticky tape to line surfaces which will come into contact with PVA, it doesn't stick.
> 
> xy



That is exactly what I use - works a charm.


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## BTR (18 May 2010)

I have never had a problem with the clamps getting glued and the glue just peels of when it is fully dried so no worrys there.
Yes Streepips i sorted the planks out so the growth rings are alternating on each plank so hopefully it should stay straight.
I cleaned off the glue today with just a quick skim with the plane on both sides and then got it roughly all flat with my belt sander and squared up the edges on the T.S ready to use byronblacks idea off rebating some oak strips for the edging to give the table a 2" thick look to the top that will be the next bit.


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## woodbloke (19 May 2010)

Interesting colours in that top - Rob


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## Streepips (19 May 2010)

Woodblokes comment about the colouring reminds me:
I spent some time shuffling the boards so that the figuring flowed, or at least appeared to although I had of course to make sure of alternate growth rings at the same time.
Which brings me on to the colouring. The best match or layout for figuring did not give the same smooth transition in colouring, far from it, some very pale timber next to some quite dark sections, next to reddish, etc.etc.
So I was very pleased when my concocted finish brought them all together to a uniform colour, a sort of golden medium oak. A clear finish would have retained to colour differences to the detriment of the finished appearance.


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## woodbloke (19 May 2010)

This is always a difficult one when you mix and match boards that aren't from the same log...grain or colour? In an ideal world you'd want to have all those boards cut from the same log (maybe they were... :duno: but I suspect not) so that the colour_ ought_ to be uniform and all you have to worry about is matching the grain.

But as we know, it ain't an ideal world  - Rob


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## WoodAddict (19 May 2010)

I like the colours. What's your plans for the legs/frame?

Watching with interest....


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## BTR (19 May 2010)

Did not get to do anything today busy day at work so got held up till after six
it would be nice to get the colour equal and the grain but as it has been said it is not a ideal world but i think once finished with a finish i will prepare myself it will look spot on.
WoodAddict for the legs i will be making hollow 4" square legs biscuited together and maybe 3-4" rails all round :roll:


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## BTR (21 May 2010)

Hi all got around to cutting the legs today 79cm is the length of the legs first put them through the dewalt thicknesser to get them nice and flat boy this don't half fill up the dust bag quick this was empty when i started i have to say the dx5000 is one real good extractor dust and chippings no problem always gets everything.












Next step was to get the pieces on the planer to square up the edges ready for joining i know there is no guard on the planer but it just gets in the way so on some jobs it gets taken off  .






All the pieces are now ready for pocket hole screws and biscuits and glue i think this method will be more than strong enough to hold them together an excellent piece off kit the kreg k3 master jig glad i bought it it gives you a real strong joint.











The last piece off the leg has just been bicuited glued and the nailed useing my nailgun and finally clamped to complete leg will fill in the little pinhead holes with some home made oak filler :lol:


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## woodbloke (22 May 2010)

BTR":cb13073r said:


> so on some jobs it gets taken off  .


I won't state the obvious, just that I hope you know the shortest route to your local hospital 8-[ - Rob


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## OPJ (22 May 2010)

If you will insist on removing the guard to plane your edges then, I'd recommend you at least bring the fence up much closer to the front of the machine, so that a minimum amount of the cutter block is exposed (just enough to cut the thickness of your timber). :? Or, leave the fence in its current position, fit the guard and butt it up to the timber (still leaving a gap just enough to pass the wood through, but at least you are protected from the 'unused' portion of the cutter block).

Mike Garnham used to run his planer without a guard, because it didn't come with one when he bought it (old, second-hand). One day, the inevitable happened and he had to get a guard made up!

Nice machine, though. Looks like you could do a bit of rebating on that, if you had all the appropriate guarding...! :shock: :wink:


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## Ironballs (22 May 2010)

Sensible advice and good best practice whether you have a guard or not


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## Chris_belgium (22 May 2010)

woodbloke":1bj8f4t2 said:


> BTR":1bj8f4t2 said:
> 
> 
> > so on some jobs it gets taken off  .
> ...



Looks like a Belgian planer , rarely see them guarded over here, I do hope your using paddles/pushsticks tough. 

I noticed you have the vice grip like thingie from Kreg to keep the pieces aligned when driving the screw in, do they keep the work perfectly aligned or is there still some movement when you drive the screw in?


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## BTR (22 May 2010)

Thanks for the advice lads i try my best to use the guard were ever possible and i also use paddels when running the work over the blades but safety first.
Yes Chris the kreg vice grips are really good the right angle one holds the workpiece at 90' can be used on its own and holds the workpiece tight and the other pocket hole grip fits into the drilled pocket hole definatly no movement then :wink: .


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## miles_hot (22 May 2010)

OPJ":3990jy3p said:


> Nice machine, though. Looks like you could do a bit of rebating on that, if you had all the appropriate guarding...! :shock: :wink:



How would you do that rebating and what on the machine makes that possible?

Thanks

Miles


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## Chems (22 May 2010)

Bring the fence forward to your rebate depth, wind down the infeed table and run part of the work over the cutter head the other part been supported by the bit of table on the infeed that comes around the cutter head and then the rebated piece been supported by the outfeed table.


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## OPJ (22 May 2010)

miles_hot":35fq0x11 said:


> How would you do that rebating and what on the machine makes that possible?



Hi Miles,

Have a look at page three of this document from the HSE website. Note the wooden 'shaw' or 'tunnel' guards, which keep the timber held firmly against the bed and fence (to prevent kickback) and also, by creating a tunnel, you fingers should not come anywhere near the cutter block.

Looking at the Axminster machine in the photo posted earlier, there doesn't appear to be a means for fitting this kind of guarding though, there is an 'extension' piece on the outfeed table, which is essential for supporting the rebate as it's cut... Bit odd to see it on this modern machine.

When it's set up correctly, it can work well. Even then, it can be a bit scary. :? Personally, I wouldn't consider it if you have a router or, even better, a router table. You'll always be limited by the maximum depth of cut on your machine (often 3-5mm, on modern planers). It's only on the old cast iron planers where you be able to cut 15mm deep rebates, for example! :shock:

I won't mention anything about cutting tenons or raised panels...!! :wink:

On the same site, I noticed this guy had a lucky escape! :?


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## BTR (22 May 2010)

Today put in a hour in the evening thought i would finish off the legs ready for sanding.
So i got out the new hand plane which i bought from Axminster last week not a bad plane it is called a Groz and cleaned up the slight overhang and glue on a couple off the legs.






This is what they look like from the top 4.8" x 3.7" rectangular legs


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## BTR (29 May 2010)

Been busy the past few days at work but finally got around to getting the table assembled and ready for the final finish. 
The Metabo is a great orbital sander using a 120 grit got the top all nice and flat any little imperfections were all removed i will finish off with a 240. 
I want to finish the table in a clear lacker to maintain the colour or very slightly darken the oak so what kind off finish would you recommend. 
I made a nest off tables a while back it was my first table making project in oak again i used the ronseal hardglaze satin floor varnish thinned down to 70/30 with thinners and sprayed them i sprayed three coats lightly sanded in between with 400 and got a beautiful deep finish.


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## ByronBlack (29 May 2010)

Rustins plastic coating would be a nice and easy finish for this piece, it keeps the original colour, and can be buffed to a satin or gloss finish. Axminster sells it. It can be brushed or sprayed, and is very easy to use.

I take it you'll be getting rid of those orange splodges on the top?


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## BTR (29 May 2010)

Thanks B.B i was looking at that when i was in axminster last week will check it out and the orange splodges just a bit off filler to cover a small mishap had the table on its top fixing the rails etc and did not see a small nail in the work top and you know what happened next glad it was only a little scratch  but all sorted :wink:


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## OPJ (29 May 2010)

Looking good. I like the overall 'chunkiness' of the piece. 

Melamine lacquer would also leave a good finish and it probably will darken or 'yellow' the oak, slightly (not as much as an oil finish). Obviously, the fumes are far more harmful than a water-based product but, as good as Chestnut's water-based lacquer seems to be, I'm not sure if it should be used on oak, or else it may react with the tannin in the wood? It doesn't seem to darken the timber much, though.


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## BTR (31 May 2010)

Finally all preped and sprayed i ended up using the Ronseal hardglaze varnish thinned down and sprayed using my hvlp spray gun 3 coats i gave it and the finish come out better than i expected first time i have sprayed a large table :lol:. 






A closer shot of the top











Finally at home in the dining room next project is to refurb some oak chairs to go with the table


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## Chems (31 May 2010)

That looks really good. I like the legs too as I need to do some really thick legs and this method, but with dominos rather than pocket screws was the main fore runner. And the finished item looks spot on here.


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## Streepips (31 May 2010)

Looks well, nice clean lines and should last you out!

Mine looked exactly the same as yours in the middle set of pics, with the differing clouring as I mentioned before. I considered that same finish that you have used but decided against it, I thought it a little harsh for such a mellow wood as oak.

I ended up with a patent finish using a mix, about a dozen coats, worked on with a cloth with the first coats heavily thinned and gradually working up the bulk to the final coats.
The mix consisted of naptha medium oak stain, ( to average out the pink cream and brown of the boards) used very sparingly , and equal proportions of white spirit, Danish oil and a Sikkens interior varnish. as the coats progressed the white spirit content reduced to none at all in the penultimate coat and the final coat was another heavily thinned one that acted as a flatting agent.
I let each coat dry hard and then flatted with 600 grit wet& dry. initially dry but as the finish progressed and the surface became fully covered ( obviously the first thin coats left it patchy) I used soapy water with the 600 grit,

The finish is tough and flexible, fairly straightforward to touch up if ever needed and most important to me I like the look of it.
Its a bit of a slog but in my opinion its a finish thats worth the effort.

I have a pic, just can`t remember how to upload. Is it a lift from photobucket?


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## BTR (31 May 2010)

Yes streetpips i uploaded the photos from photobucket would be nice to see a pic off your table thanks.
Chems i think the method off using dominos and glueing will achieve the same results nice and strong joints but will be quicker i am seriousally thinking in getting a domino axminster have a festool demo day coming up i will be going to see what it has to offer and will then decide :lol:


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## Chems (1 Jun 2010)

Well if you ever happen to pass my way your welcome to a demo. Its a great machine, you need to use it just once to see its worth.


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## OPJ (1 Jun 2010)

Shame about some of the sap (lighter wood?) on the hollow legs but, it looks as though you know how to apply a varnish! :wink:

Best of luck with the chairs. Have you sorted a design for them yet?


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## Streepips (1 Jun 2010)

The table in situ, the chairs are oak too but no longer with this table.


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## wizer (1 Jun 2010)

BTR: That's a nice table. My only two comments would be that the Sapwood is fine, but I would have oriented it so that it was in the same place on all four legs. I'm also not a fan of very gloss finishes, but it might just be the camera making it look overly plastic. Overall outstanding work, better than I've ever done


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## BTR (2 Jun 2010)

Thanks for the input lads and thanks for the offer chems if i am down your way i will be in touch.
OPJ i have some oak chairs which need refurbishing but i have seen a few designs and am very tempted to make some new ones have never made a chair before but how hard can it be :roll: .
Wizer in the pics it does look a bit too glossy and about the sapwood next time i will pay more attention to detail,Streetpips that is a nice looking table lovely grain and finish .


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## Chems (2 Jun 2010)

You know what tool is ideal for chairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


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## OPJ (2 Jun 2010)

If you wanted to knock the gloss back a bit, you should be able to do so with a bit of fine (0000) steel wool and elbow grease.  On a dining table, you really need a lacquer of varnish finish to put up with all the "abuse" a dining table top gets. Oils and waxes would usually be durable enough and would also need re-coating more often. I'm not a fan of "plastic" finishes either but, in situations like this, they're often the best solution. 

I agree with Tom's comment on the sap - it would've been better if it was in the same place on each leg (ie. inside corner, for example).


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## Streepips (2 Jun 2010)

Olly, 
A tough enough finish can be obtained using the method I use, either with a mix of oil and varnish as in my pic above or just varnish. Trick is LOTS of thin coats dried and flatted between each coat and gradually built up. This penetrates the timber and remains flexible, instead of forming a "plastic" skin floating on the surface of the workpiece.
My wife dropped a 2lb scale weight from a high shelf on to a table I finished this way and the dent was sharp and over 1/4" deep. But the varnish never broke, remained intact. 
A fresh brewed pot of tea could go on it, or an overheated plate from the microwave and not cause a problem. Maybe just some local condensation under the crockery! But never penetrating the surface.Table surface is still intact after 20 years growing family abuse.........


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