# French farmhouse table



## gasman (11 Jun 2012)

A friend wants me to make her a really large farmhouse table - 2100 x 1000 ideally - with tapered legs, an apron and 2 drawers. She wants the table top to be from 3 or maximum 4 boards with no breadboard ends - just 7' planks jointed. She wants 'fruitwood' which I presume means cherry given the required width of boards. I was going to do 100 mm sq legs tapering to 65 at the bottom - with a 200mm overhang at each end, 100 mm overhang at the edges and 50 x 100 aprons
I am concerned several aspects - but particularly about movement in the table top due to the lack of breadboards to keep stability - also how would you joint the 3 boards - with tenons and pegs - or just with dominos / biscuits.
Anyone got any plans or advice for this sort of thing would be great. I have had a go in sketchup and will post this attempt later (on my desktop at home)
Thanks
Mark


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## Paul Chapman (11 Jun 2012)

I'd go with Dominos/biscuits. You don't say how thick the top is but if necessary use two rows. I did that with this circular oak table top, which was very successful. Also quick and easy












Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## gasman (11 Jun 2012)

Thanks Paul good idea about the double row of biccies - I was thinking of 35-40mm for the top depending on what timber my local yard has in stock of cherry
Do you think the lack of breadboard ends will be a problem - would you reinforce the bottom with 'cross-pieces' to try to reduce cupping or just suck it and see?
Thanks Mark


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## Paul Chapman (11 Jun 2012)

gasman":9jzg91ic said:


> Do you think the lack of breadboard ends will be a problem



I've never gone along with the notion that breadboard ends stop the wood moving. Wood will always move. Far more important in my view to have some mechanical fixing, like Dominos/biscuits/loose tongues or whatever, along the length. Useful to read what Alan Peters said about this and glue choice in his book 'Cabinetmaking - The Professional Approach'.

Using Dominos/biscuits is also good to keep the wood aligned so that you don't have to remove too much material when finishing the top.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Sawyer (11 Jun 2012)

gasman":bysk85t6 said:


> Do you think the lack of breadboard ends will be a problem - would you reinforce the bottom with 'cross-pieces' to try to reduce cupping or just suck it and see?
> Thanks Mark


Shouldn't need to, I don't think: once it's fixed to the underframe, that should achieve the same result. Remember to allow for movement when you fix the top though - otherwise it's liable to split. 'Buttons' are a good system from this point of view.


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## Lons (11 Jun 2012)

It's down to personal choice and availability of tooling but I usually favour loose plywood tongues which give a large glue surface area and have done this many times. Never used a double tongue but can't see any problems with that.

Another alternative would be to tongue and groove the boards. At those widths there would be only 3 joints so would cost you only 30 - 40 mm total material loss.

Don't know if any advantage or otherwise over biscuits or dominoes (which I've never used), just my 2 pennerth.

Bob


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## woodbloke (11 Jun 2012)

Sawyer":1ck8t0q9 said:


> gasman":1ck8t0q9 said:
> 
> 
> > Do you think the lack of breadboard ends will be a problem - would you reinforce the bottom with 'cross-pieces' to try to reduce cupping or just suck it and see?
> ...


I'd agree. These farmhouse style tables seem to be in vogue at the moment and are always built on the chunkable side. Provided the material for the top is properly seasoned and jointed (Doms, biscuits, dowels, ply tongues or nowt at all) it ought to stay flat if it's secured to a beefed up under frame. I'd suggest that large buttons with big screws are probably the best way to hold it in place. 
I'd emphasize though that the top boards need to be really well conditioned for the eventual environment that they're going to be in, as any subsequent movement of the finished top will be very difficult to correct if it ever does start to move - Rob


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## stef (11 Jun 2012)

This is how i did mine.
dining-table-in-oak-t32832.html


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## gasman (21 Jun 2012)

So construction is underway, boards are seasoning inside my house and tapered legs are finished but the client wants 2 drawers in the sides
I have mocked up a sketchup of it and I think it will be strong enough - file attached - I am also going to reinforce the apron underneath the drawers with a flu length piece




The client now says she does not want to see the drawers - i.e. the faces need to be full depth of the apron and no handle so they are pulled out from under the apron as it were. I am less happy about this as I cannot see how to make it as strong.
Anyone got any better ideas?
Thanks
Mark


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## gasman (21 Jun 2012)

Maybe I should expand on what I have thought so far... If I cut a 20mm thick piece of cherry as long as the other apron rail and then cut that into 5 pieces - 1 for each end, 2 for the drawer fronts then a short piece between the drawers, then I could glue that to a sort of 'torsion box' maybe 4 1/2 inches square which would have the 2 drawers sliding through it - but I still worry about where the strength of the rail will come from - the top is 30mm cherry and heavy - the top will be 2200 x 950 eventually although the length of each rail is 1550 since there is a 250 mm overhang at each end
Thanks again for any advice
Mark


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## marcros (21 Jun 2012)

how much overhang is on the sides of the table- will you actually see the drawers as you have drawn them from most viewing angles? If the fronts were grainmatched and handleless them might be almost invisible. could you knock up the side or part there of from a piece to demonstrate this to the client?


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## woodbloke (21 Jun 2012)

I think you're going to need to be cunning here Mark as what she's asking for are 'invisible' drawers or ones where the fronts can barely be seen, which means that the grain is going to have to line up. There is a way to do it and I'll try and explain, so bear with me.

Take the long side rail (which *must* be oversize) and split it lengthwise into three or four long boards of equal thickness and once machined, mark the sequence that they go back together.

Take the *first*, or outer board, re-saw it and glue back together such that you now have two openings for the drawer fronts...if you do the maths you'll see that you'll need 5 bits of wood, two long pieces top and bottom and three sections in the middle.

On the re-assembled outer board, machine a small rebate in the top and bottom where the drawers are, it doesn't need to be very deep (say 6mm) which will give the illusion that the drawers are full width across the depth.

Now take the *second* board in the stack and cut the drawer fronts from it, so that the grain will almost be an 100% match (and only separated by the thickness of a saw blade and subsequent cleaning up) and then make suitable matching rebates along the top and bottom to fit the ones in the rail.

With the remainder of the boards, you can now build up the thickness of the original rail by re-gluing them onto the outer board...the drawers can then be made in the normal way. 

I did see this procedure done and it does work, but it's a bit of a faff to do - Rob


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## gasman (21 Jun 2012)

Thanks Rob and marcros. I do understand what you are saying - but my biggest concern is not the appearance but the strength of the rail to support a table top which is going to weigh close to 100 kg I would have thought (having carried the boards down my garden myself!!!)
Cheers you have given me some food for thought
Mark


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## woodbloke (21 Jun 2012)

gasman":3ru7qe6g said:


> Thanks Rob and marcros. I do understand what you are saying - but my biggest concern is not the appearance but the strength of the rail to support a table top which is going to weigh close to 100 kg I would have thought (having carried the boards down my garden myself!!!)
> Cheers you have given me some food for thought
> Mark


I understand Mark. Whichever way you slice it (literally! :lol: ) that rail is going to be weaker, simply because you've got to cut two big holes in it for the drawer fronts. If you split the front rail as I suggest, the other option is to incorporate some hefty steel work into the subsequent boards behind the front 'show' section.
Without wishing to get into the egg sucking area (and I know you'll understand where I'm coming from) I'd be inclined to really think you're way through this one before you start the construction as any errors are going to be potentially quite costly. I don't want to appear to be condescending but am genuinely trying to offer help...'tis a tricky one! - Rob


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## Racers (21 Jun 2012)

Hi,

Make the draw fronts the full depth of the rail, but the draw box less allowing you to have rails at the top and bottom hidden by the draw fronts.

Pete


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## Togalosh (26 Jun 2012)

Hi Gasman..I've been puzzling these exact same questions for the past 2 weeks & although I'm not 100% sure how to tackle it either I'm veering towards having the drawers on the ends instead. I am more confident of the strength this way but also won't need to match the grain so carefully.

The one thing I've not seen you query is the depth of the drawers - what were you planning on? 
I thought 105mm apron made up of 20mm stretchers above & below the drawers (obviously..if I have my terminology correct) might be enough for strength once it was all fixed together (the top adding the rigidity - althogh my table is 1600 long), this would make the drawer sides 65 but the insides only 50mm..this seems too shallow to me..or am I missing something?

At first I was planning to have 3 drawers along the long aprons hoping that the extra runners etc would act as more support but was hoping to ask the more skilled & experienced on here before I did anything.

Have you made up your mind yet?


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## gasman (26 Jun 2012)

Thanks for the post
I had the 'client' (very good friends of mine) round on saturday and they decided what they wanted
This is a reasonable approximation




The drawers will probably have finger holes to open them near the top so they cannot be seen (75mm overhang at the sides)
I have finished all the base except the drawers and it all looks good - much stronger than I thought. I will take a phot later and add it here
The drawers are 80mm deep so will end up 65 or so usable height
Hope that helps
Mark


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## gasman (26 Jun 2012)

Sorry - forgot to add what I actually did about that front piece. First I thicknessed it to 36mm, with depth about 115. Then I ripped 32mm off lengthways for the bottom rail. Then I worked out I wanted the 2 drawers to be 420 mm wide so cut the top bit into 5 pieces with 2x 424mm drawers pieces 2 and 4. Then I glued pieces 1,3 and 5 back onto the bottom 32mm (thicknessed back to 30 now), leaving a 420mm gap each side. Then I made the tenons on the end as for the other side and it has all gone very well. If I am concerned about strength (by the time all the other framework is in place for the drawers it is actually very sturdy), I could get a 5x25mm steel bar and rebate that into a groove in the bottom rail - but at the moment I do not think I need it
An interesting journey - here it is thus far


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## woodbloke (26 Jun 2012)

...so if I'm reading this right, section 2 will be forming the drawer fronts?
Edit: yep, sections 2 and 4 for the fronts - Rob


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## Jacob (27 Jun 2012)

You will have a problem with the drawers and the apron in that there is nothing to stop it sagging, unless it is screwed up to the top itself, which is not good.
You'll get there in the end no doubt but IMHO you are making the classic mistake of trying to design something off the top of your head without doing any research at all, which needs only to be as simple as *looking* at a good example of a traditional table, crawling undrneath etc and taking a few snaps and measurements. You would find all your design problems solved in a simple and economical way.
If you want to do craftwork of any kind *looking at other stuff* is absolutely essential, or you are working in the dark.


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## monkeybiter (27 Jun 2012)

You could have another rectangular frame within the boundaries of the apron [thus unseen] below the apron/drawers adding additional support against sagging.


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## Jacob (27 Jun 2012)

There are two trad solutions to the drawer prob. 
First is to make a small letter-box type of hole in an apron to hold a small drawer, which won't be heavy, and the hole won't compromise the strength of the apron. 
The second is no apron at all - usually in the end of the table- the drawer is supported between two rails which may be 4"x1" or similar. You only see the 1" edges - which is why you need to crawl under tables to see how they are made!
Same design with two drawers in the longer sides. They would have a (say) 4x1" partition between them, with an edge grain insert over the cross grained visible end, the other end being tenonned into the opposite apron. In other words your complicated 2 drawer design above would be reduced to just three pieces of wood.
All runners , kickers, guides would be from off-cuts, added on to the basic structure.

Here's one of mine, 2 drawer, no apron, as described above:


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## Togalosh (27 Jun 2012)

Gasman, your work looks great from what I can see from the photo (I'm not envious..) & I hope that the concerns raised by Jacob do not come true as that would be a real shame.

Jacob, I cannot picture what you have explained - is there a book you could recommend that illustrates what you have explained? I am using Practical Design Solutions & Strategies by Fine Woodworking.

I have looked all around all the tables I come across (getting odd looks from diners in cafes & restaurants as I go) but nothing I've found is like the scale or materials I am using & only 1 made in the 'proper' way. This 1 example was the letter box in the apron style you mention but thought it'd be impossible to match up the drawer front grain (they had painted the drawer & apron). 

My idea is to have something similar to Gasman but with wide dividers top & bottom - would this make it strong enough to have drawers along the long side ?. My concerns over strength have made me think that end drawers are the bettter way but I'd prefer not to. The book I refer to now only shows a small desk/table with this design not a 1600 x 960 dining table. What is you opinion please?


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## Togalosh (27 Jun 2012)

Jacob.. I've woken up a bit more now & see your photo& get what you've explained.


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## Jacob (27 Jun 2012)

Togalosh":2nwbscbd said:


> ..
> Jacob, I cannot picture what you have explained


It's in my photo. The 2 drawers sit between the 2 4x1" rails with a 4x1" partition between them. 3 pieces of wood. What can't you see?


> is there a book you could recommend that illustrates what you have explained?


 Joyce p328. He shows various details for a chest of drawers which you would modify slightly for a table. Or Thos Moser perhaps. What I'm describing is an extremely common trad table design. If it's not in your Fine woodworking book then I'd bin it!


> ..... the letter box in the apron style you mention but thought it'd be impossible to match up the drawer front grain


Don't attempt the impossible. No need to match the grain anyway. It's just one of those thing you _might_ do _if_ it is possible _and_ worth the effort.


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## gasman (27 Jun 2012)

Thanks for your advice Jacob but you are wrong I have done a considerable amount of research on tables and ways to achieve different ends. I have made probably 8 or 10 tables before and I always enjoy problem-solving in the design stage. There were lots of conflicting concerns and problems here which have led me to this solution which I personally think will come out fine
I have 4 potential solutions to the obvious potential problem of that side sagging
1. The 'innards' of the base - i.e. the drawer supports, cross-beams etc which are mostly of 36x110 cherry actually make the thing much stronger than I thought it would be and even now it does not sag when I sit on that side
2. It will be attached to the top at several points along that rail including the middle section and either side of the drawers with buttons - not with screws - which will provide considerable additional support - as after all there will be no _relative_ longitudinal shrinkage or expansion to speak of between the top and that rail as all this wood is 12% moisture kiln dried plus the top itself is 32mm thick
3. If I am still concerned I will embed a rectangular section metal bar 6x25 below the drawers all the way along that rail which would be simple to do as the ends of the table are not yet glued on just dry-fitted
4. If I am still concerned I can put a metal strut _over_ that rail to reduce sagging by resisting compression
Not sure you needed to be quite as rude about the design as you were but each to their own - maybe I am just being over-sensitive
Regards
Mark


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## Jacob (27 Jun 2012)

gasman":3jhhu2i5 said:


> .........
> Not sure you needed to be quite as rude about the design as you were but each to their own - maybe I am just being over-sensitive
> Regards
> Mark


Oops sorry didn't think I was being rude! "Constructively critical" perhaps? Trad design is under rated IMHO. Why attempt to re-design the wheel? 
If you are having to put steel in doesn't this raise a question?


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## Paul Chapman (27 Jun 2012)

I reckon it will be OK, Mark, particularly when you get the top on and secure it with buttons. I'd be surprised if you have to resort to metal bars to strengthen it.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (27 Jun 2012)

Jacob":9wn9ud20 said:


> gasman":9wn9ud20 said:
> 
> 
> > .........
> ...


The problem is MrB, as I understand it, is that Mark needs to incorporate two drawers in the side, which to all intent and purposes are 'secret', in other words, a table wot you've shown in your pic simply won't work. The grain of the drawer fronts needs to be made out of the same board as the apron for the grain to match and the drawer pulls are going to be incorperated so that they can't be seen...possibly moulded on the underside of the fronts, so the situation is a little convoluted and quite tricky to sort out. The only indication that there are two drawers in the apron will be the very narrow, vertical, shadow gaps 'twixt the drawers and the apron. 
Mark, apologies if I've got anything askew and please correct me - Rob


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## Jacob (27 Jun 2012)

woodbloke":3jpid9g9 said:


> .... so the situation is a little convoluted and quite tricky to sort out. .....


Easy peasy. 
Instead of trad inset drawer front, do "onset" fronts, either rebated, or with false front added, to cover the rails and stiles.
In other words a perfectly conventional modern detail.


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## DTR (27 Jun 2012)

Jacob":348nj65i said:


> Easy peasy.
> Instead of trad inset drawer front, do "onset" fronts, either rebated, or with false front added, to cover the rails and stiles.
> In other words a perfectly conventional modern detail.



I was thinking along the same lines, but thought I was missing something painfully obvious...


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## Steve Maskery (27 Jun 2012)

I've read this thread with interest. (!) My first thought was "I'd get some new clients, they are bonkers" but that's not very contructive.

For handle-less drawers, if modern hardware is acceptable, you could mount the drawers on metal runners and use push-to-open catches.

But at the beginning, did I understand you correctly to say that the top is gong to be 100omm wide made up of no more than 4 noards? If so each board needs to finish at 250mm, no? That's some hefty timbers: cherry at my local is rarely more than 6" wide, 8" tops.

Good luck!
S

PS Breadboard ends do not stop the wood from moving, but they do help to stop it cupping.


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## Jacob (27 Jun 2012)

There doesn't seem to be any problem in this thread which can't be solved with a common traditional or modern design detail. 
Mind you this does entail finding out what these are. At some point you have to lie on the floor under a table, and look upwards.
If anybody asks what you are doing just tell them you are having a fit and if they don't pineapple off you'll bite their ankles!


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## monkeybiter (27 Jun 2012)

Jacob":1wxhmh2p said:


> and if they don't pineapple off you'll bite their ankles!



:lol: :lol:


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## gasman (27 Jun 2012)

Thanks everyone
Metal runners not acceptable to client - needs to be traditional (but why no handles??!
Drawers now finished and glueing up - will need a bit of fettling to fit well
Top is going to be 960 mm wide and only 3 boards - I have one at 345, one at 325 and one at 295 - they were the only 3 that size I could find
Hidden extra long biscuit of cherry between each pair of boards but stopping an inch or so before the ends so from end on it looks like 3 square end boards
Thanks everyone
Mark


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## Steve Maskery (27 Jun 2012)

I think pics are compulsory!

S


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## woodbloke (27 Jun 2012)

Steve Maskery":xzi13wwk said:


> I think pics are compulsory!
> 
> S


Agree with Steve here...pics are mandatory, or maybe it didn't happen? Who knows :duno: :lol: - Rob


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## gasman (4 Jul 2012)

Sorry taken so long to update
Not sure if this needs to be moved to the 'Projects' section -n can a Moderator advise / action if necessary? Thanks
Have made good progress and will get some more photos of the drawer fronts etc - but, as this is a big heavy table (the top measures 2200 x 950 x 32mm solid cherry in 3 planks, I am going to reinforce the rail where the drawers are with a steel
So the rail has x 32x32 mm full length piece along the bottom under the drawers. I bought a steel bar 25x8x1550mm and have hidden it in this piece
So I mounted the base upside down and supported like this




Then router out an 8mm groove very slowly using a Leigh 8mm router bit with router and fence - I made it 28mm deep and did it a few mm at a time. I also routed out a 2 deep x 20mm wide channel as well 









Then I glued in the metal rail - but it was a tight fit anyway - don't think it is going anywhere




before covering it with a piece of 3mm x 20mm 




Then I planed down the insert so the bottom surface of the rail is now flat. 
Now it is very solid
I will show some more of the drawers etc soon
Thanks mark


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## Paul Chapman (4 Jul 2012)

That should do it  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (4 Jul 2012)

Paul Chapman":akawh638 said:


> That should do it
> 
> Cheers :wink:
> 
> Paul


I agree with Paul, mounting the steel bar as you have done means that it's going to be very difficult to flex under load and should really stiffen up that front rail - Rob


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## Jacob (4 Jul 2012)

Hmm. To reduce flexing you'd need an angle iron. A flat strip won't help all that much. Try resting the bar across stools at each end and see what weight it'll hold in the middle without bending. Bag of sugar? Doubt it. In fact it will hardly bear its own weight.
If it is firmly glued to the wood it might even _induce_ bending, with changes in air temp!
Much better to stick to tried and tested trad designs IMHO. 2 drawers in the side of a table is not a design problem. Yours will probably be the only steel reinforced french style farmhouse table in existence.


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## Racers (4 Jul 2012)

Hi, Jacob

He Says its 25x8mm and he has fitted it on edge so it will be strong.

Angle iron only works because of the width of the web, nothing magical about it.

Pete


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## Jacob (4 Jul 2012)

Racers":3a197iob said:


> Hi, Jacob
> 
> He Says its 25x8mm and he has fitted it on edge so it will be strong.
> 
> ...


Oh right I thought it was flat. Still an unusual "solution" to something which isn't a problem IMHO. And a unique table!


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## monkeybiter (4 Jul 2012)

Will the bar ends be directly above the legs? If not I would be concerned that if the wood tries to flex it could pop one of the ends out of the timber if the glue eventually fails due to uneven thermal movement.


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## Paul Chapman (4 Jul 2012)

I wouldn't have any concerns at all about the strength of that rail now that Mark has reinforced it with steel. The rail is now almost like a piece of thick plywood, with one of the plys made of steel, so it will be very strong. A great solution in my view.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Jacob (4 Jul 2012)

Paul Chapman":2dkkwfok said:


> ...... A great solution in my view.
> 
> Cheers :wink:
> 
> Paul


To what problem?


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## Paul Chapman (4 Jul 2012)

Read the thread, Jacob - it's all there. Or maybe you were just being provocative as usual :-k 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Jacob (4 Jul 2012)

Paul Chapman":wmgapy5h said:



> Read the thread, Jacob - it's all there. Or maybe you were just being provocative as usual :-k
> 
> Cheers :wink:
> 
> Paul


Nope. Had a look. I see no problem. I don't see what is gained by this reinforced steel design as compared to the more conventional and much simpler common alternative ways of putting 2 drawers in the side of a table. It's not as though it's a radical alternative design in any way - there are millions of 2 drawer tables!


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## Paul Chapman (4 Jul 2012)

Jacob":3lf7e3jk said:


> I don't see what is gained by this reinforced steel design as compared to the more conventional and much simpler common alternative ways of putting 2 drawers in the side of a table.



You're just an old stick-in-the-mud. You need to broaden your horizons a bit :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Jacob (4 Jul 2012)

Paul Chapman":mx0c0iw3 said:


> Jacob":mx0c0iw3 said:
> 
> 
> > I don't see what is gained by this reinforced steel design as compared to the more conventional and much simpler common alternative ways of putting 2 drawers in the side of a table.
> ...


I know I know :roll: I just need to get out more.


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## woodbloke (4 Jul 2012)

Jacob":15frtjsm said:


> Paul Chapman":15frtjsm said:
> 
> 
> > Jacob":15frtjsm said:
> ...


Difficult with that buggy though, 'specially towing a trailer :lol: - Rob


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## monkeybiter (4 Jul 2012)

Are you still off your feet Jacob? If so it must be frustrating in the middle of this glorious summer!


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## Jacob (4 Jul 2012)

monkeybiter":1c9xakks said:


> Are you still off your feet Jacob? If so it must be frustrating in the middle of this glorious summer!


Thanks for asking. rubbish weather though innit. :shock: 
Staggering about a bit on two feet at last. Buggy gone back to ebay. Can't ride my bike yet so am getting a turbo trainer thing. Planning to pedal while I'm watching Le Tour. I should be nearly on form by the time we get to the Alps.


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## Sawyer (6 Jul 2012)

Allez Wiggins!


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## gasman (15 Jul 2012)

Finally finished the cherry table today except for one more coat of stuff on the top
No major snags after that whole reinforcing the rail business which got Jacob a bit upset
The drawers fit quite well and will glide even better once they are wire-woolled and waxed
The finish is 2 coats so far of Osmo PolyXol clear satin - the satin finish was her choice but I quite like it - it has a deep lustre





There is some lovely grain in the cherry




The slots for the buttons were cut with my T11 router with a 1/4 inch slot cutter (half of a 1/2" tongue and grooving set)




The square pegs for the joint have come out fairly well I think. They are a bit of a cheat in that they were put in retrospectively - just drilled a 9mm hole right through, then tapped in the square chisel from a 3/8" morticed by hand, removing the waste every inch or so - then hammered in square pegs slightly tapered then tidied up with a chisel. 




The drawers are quite hard to spot from a distance




and they have 'handles' like this (specified by client)




One drawer contains a removable cutlery box




I think, with the benefit of hindsight I would have made the rails thicker but everything was as specified by the client. Hope she likes it!
Thanks for all your help and advice
Best wishes
Mark


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## Paul Chapman (15 Jul 2012)

Looks great, Mark.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## monkeybiter (15 Jul 2012)

Nice looking piece, very attractive.


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## Racers (15 Jul 2012)

Hi, Mark

Looks good and upsets Jacob, what more could you want :wink: 

Pete


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## Jacob (15 Jul 2012)

Looks good. Doesn't upset me. Funny construction though!


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## woodbloke (15 Jul 2012)

gasman":1fln24te said:


> The drawers are quite hard to spot from a distance
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A very nice piece Mark :wink: By '_slicing and dicing_' that apron rail, the grain of the drawer front blends in extremely well with the rest of it...if you didn't see the handle cut outs, you'd have to look twice to see if there was a drawer there at all, which is the effect that the client was after. If another bit of wood was used for the drawer fronts, the different grain pattern would then have made them too conspicuous, so that I think overall, it's a very creditable job and one that I'm sure the client will approve of - Rob


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