# AW106PT Fence Storage



## OPJ (5 Nov 2011)

I came up with this idea a few weeks ago while staring blankly at my machine (Axminster AW106PT) while it was set up in thicknessing mode. Like several others on the market, this model is one where you need to remove the main fence from the top of the machine in order to access the thicknesser below. This has always presented with it the problem of storing the fence elsewhere in the mean time. Usually, it ends up on either my table saw, bandsaw, mitre saw or workbench. Wherever it goes, it always ends up getting in the way!

My solution didn't take more than a couple of hours to produce:







All I've done is replicated the main mounting bracket using offcuts of wood:






This is bolted to the removable casing on the back of the machine and the fence simply slots in to place.






There is one additional advantage to this arrangement - I can use the inverted fence as a place to stack timber waiting to go through the machine! :wink:






While this doesn't eradicate the need to remove the fence, I think it could prove to be quite useful, even if it does increase the footprint of the machine.

Thanks for looking. Hope the idea may be of use to some.


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## CHJ (5 Nov 2011)

A novel solution providing added benefits, I presume the adjustment slide/fence interface is robust enough to take any unexpected loads at the extremes of the un-support ends.


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## Steve Maskery (7 Nov 2011)

Excellent Olly. Where to put the fence has always been an annoying issue with my Kitty - wherever I choose it is soon in the way of something else. This is a good idea.
S


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## woodbloke (11 Dec 2011)

An excellent idea Olly, but one of the reasons why I didn't go for the 106 but opted for the Jet 260 instead (complete with a 'Boblock') I assume that the table in the pics is the lighter weight aluminium one, the newer ci version would be a heavy lump to hoik on and off the planer each time - Rob


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## OPJ (15 Dec 2011)

Thanks, guys (sorry for not replying sooner).



woodbloke":1117uolp said:


> An excellent idea Olly, but one of the reasons why I didn't go for the 106 but opted for the Jet 260 instead (complete with a 'Boblock') I assume that the table in the pics is the lighter weight aluminium one, the newer ci version would be a heavy lump to hoik on and off the planer each time - Rob



If you mean 'fence' Rob then, yes, you are correct. ;-) Both tables are cast iron on both the old and new models of this machine. If I could have my time again, I would probably have done some more research and looked for a second-hand Kity P/T. I'm pretty sure there's one where you only need to life one feed table? At the time, I wasn't that confident in buying used machinery. Probably could've saved some money, though... :roll:


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## Hudson Carpentry (15 Dec 2011)

Great idea. It shouldn't increase the foot print of the machine as when the fence is on the bar stick out the back somewhat further. Im unsure if the weight of my cast iron fence will be a good idea or not so I may use your bracket on whats behind my T/P.

Now if you could solve the issue with the fence being out after you refit it :lol:


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## woodbloke (16 Dec 2011)

OPJ":1b18wl0k said:


> If you mean 'fence' Rob then, yes, you are correct. ;-)


Indeed Olly  ...it's an age thing (my excuse anyway) - Rob


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## woodshavings (16 Dec 2011)

Am I missing something? On my AW106 I leave it attached and tilt it back like this.
John


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## Hudson Carpentry (16 Dec 2011)

Hehe that quite funny. Is it in the manual?


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## woodshavings (16 Dec 2011)

Hudson Carpentry":1d9nohp3 said:


> Hehe that quite funny. Is it in the manual?



I don't think so....
John


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## OPJ (16 Dec 2011)

Ah, yes, I remember seeing someone mention that this was possible a couple of years ago - it must have been you, woodshavings. ;-)

I guess it depends on how much space you have around the machine... For one thing, I currently have to rotate my machine 180° when changing between modes so that the outlet is pointing towards the extractor and also, so that I can comfortably feed lengths through the thicknesser. Also, I don't always find the 90° repeat stop to be that reliable once the fence angle has been altered. Maybe the cast iron upgrade is better? There is a slight discrepancy with the aluminium on mine but, it's never been enough to cause any great bother.

Dust extraction from this machine, however... ](*,)


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## Hudson Carpentry (18 Dec 2011)

I can't use woodshavings way either without first moving the machine. The bar that holds the fence on once pushed as far in as it will go, don't allow the extraction pipe to pass over when rotating the hood. As said I would have to move the machine or remove and reattach the extraction hose. Its quicker just to remove fence and put out the way.

Regarding the cast iron fence, no the stops are not accurate and once in square and you remove the fence it knocks it out again. The tightening method isn't to strong, purely because the levers are plastic and im fed up of snapping then (other machines) so I daren't tighten then to hard. It only takes 5sec to square back up again though.

I find extraction brilliant. I have flex hose into steel then flex then DX. The DX used is the older version of this http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod861355/


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## woodshavings (18 Dec 2011)

I certainly agree regarding the fence stops. I check with a square when ever I change its position.
I have suspended the extraction hose from the ceiling with a bungee cord so I can swing the hood over without too much difficulty.
Extraction is not very good and use the air line to clear the shavings to prevent build up.
John


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