# stoat-o-matic router lift



## stoatyboy (11 Jul 2010)

ok so it's not a new idea but i've just done it and it was relatively easy so hope this might help others:

Buy a cheap router from boot sale £5 - can get them new for £25 if it breaks from B&Q






take all the bits off





note how depth guage hold and depth stop hole line up





line up perfectly





take off legs





don't forget nasty little grub screw that got stuck requiring purchase of screw extractor kit from screwfix - amazing piece of kit if you've not got one get one - anyway take out grub screw and use drift to knock out legs





drill hole through base plat using depth stop hole as guide - its exactly the right size - 8mm





find bit of M8 threaded rod from tin of assorted bits of bolts and stuff flatten one edge of bolt so it sits flush against side of router





drill hole in other end of rod and glue in M4 allen head bolt (tried to thread it but the correct size hole for M4 is 3.3mm drill which I didn't have - and 3mm didn't work as I am cack - there's nothing wrong with Araldite - make sure you put a washer in between the rod and M4 bolt to stop the rod falling out the 8mm hole you drilled earlier





here's how it sits in the base (its a little proud but i reckon itll still be below my router plate surface - if not i can sink it a bit more





and here it is having just wound the router up - the allen key is sticking out the bottom -I'll have to make some winding handle later. the nut is just visible just below and to the right of the '0' on the depth scale - it's just glued in/on.





That's it - thanks to all for the help on the 'holes for tapping' thread just a bit further down than this one
Sorry to mods if too many photo's - I left out half of them
Cost - £5 and a screw extractor set!
now I just need to build a router table to put it in!!!

Thanks for looking

Pete


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## Chems (11 Jul 2010)

You should see if you can fit it to an old dremel or something now so you have electric wind up and down.


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## stoatyboy (12 Jul 2010)

Thanks Chems - I'll put that on my 'to do' list after 

- building the router table
- sorting out some decent sharpening system
- dust proofing the table saw
- fitting castors on the workbench
- finishing the blasted bedside cabinets I started making in January after seeing your design! 

or did you mean just put an allen key socket head thing in my electric drill and wind it up with that? - I could manage that!

Cheers


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## RussianRouter (12 Jul 2010)

Not in an electric drill,too fast.

Use a hex bar in your cordless drill.


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## RussianRouter (12 Jul 2010)

The hole you drilled out in the router whee the nut is,did you tap it for a screwthread?


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## Chems (12 Jul 2010)

stoatyboy":1kne7c71 said:


> Thanks Chems - I'll put that on my 'to do' list after
> 
> - building the router table
> - sorting out some decent sharpening system
> ...



Thats just a mornings work! I meant sort of under the table type arrangement, but a drill/driver with the right end in would probably do to get the bit all the way up and all the way down when needed. If you got an Extreme extension you could also change bits above the table. I have that router in the McKeller format, was my first router I put in a table and changing the bit was a nightmare around the dust shroud.


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## stoatyboy (12 Jul 2010)

Hi Guys,

I didn't tap any holes - was going to on the one in the depth guide but decided i'd go for the araldite option - much easier for me - and cheaper as i'd have to buy a suitable tap.

the one I drilled in the base plate no - doesn't seem to be a need

As for the under table lift well I heard RR was going to do one - wern't you?

I'll look at the extreme extention when I get it fitted - and Chems you work too fast!!

Pete


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## Chems (12 Jul 2010)

I wish!

I may have to copy your idea and do it to my little router, looks like fun.


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## RussianRouter (12 Jul 2010)

stoatyboy":2qc88s06 said:


> As for the under table lift well I heard RR was going to do one - wern't you?
> 
> Pete



He's already done it. 

Taken it to phase two in Aluminium,waiting for the Aluminium and even if I had it couldn't show it in operation as I'm waiting for the router plate :roll: 

Its motorised,moves up and down at the press of a button,twiddle the pot for speed,throw the switch for upping and lowering the height.

Lovely stuff. :wink:


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## krpreece (15 Aug 2010)

Fitted this to my new (to me) SIP table saw today using old B&D router with no problems took about an hour plus time to make extension table raises simply with 3mm allen bit in cordless drill excellent idea much appreciated


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## OldWood (17 Aug 2010)

HI SB
I'm attempting to do this with a B&Q 1250W router which is presenting greater difficulty in dismantling; on the bais that monkeys put it together then this monkey can take it apart.

One question - did you put the springs back in? Somewhere else I've seen a not dissimilar mod and the springs were removed to reduce the load on the screw thread and the weight of the motor was enough to take the head down anyway.

Rob


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## Dibs-h (17 Aug 2010)

OldWood":3as49r0c said:


> HI SB
> I'm attempting to do this with a B&Q 1250W router which is presenting greater difficulty in dismantling; on the bais that monkeys put it together then this monkey can take it apart.
> 
> One question - did you put the springs back in? Somewhere else I've seen a not dissimilar mod and the springs were removed to reduce the load on the screw thread and the weight of the motor was enough to take the head down anyway.
> ...



You would need to remove the springs - be bloody hard work otherwise!

Dibs


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## stoatyboy (17 Aug 2010)

Hi - I wondered who SB was!! doh

I left one spring in - being a sort of sit of the fence kind of guy

I thought that with no springs it might sort of 'flop about' even with the threaded rod fixed

it's definately harder to wind up with springs than without though

I did have to pursuade the legs 'quite hard' to come out of the base. 'quite hard' on my scale is just below 'this is the hardest i've hit anything that I didn't want to break' and just above 'gosh that came out easy'

Cheers


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## krpreece (17 Aug 2010)

Left both springs in on mine bit of grease on the thread and wind up or down with hex key in cordless drill. Doing it this way means you don't have to glue the nut to the router as the spring will push back and converting back to hand held router with depth gauge takes seconds. 


Oldwood if you're using the same router as me I couldn't remove the split pin on the one leg. I just locked the height adjustment on the free'd leg and gave it gentle:shock: persuasion with a hammer until the base came of the shaft. I was then able to swing the base plate 90 degrees so I could drill the base hope this helps can take photos if you like


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