# Where can I buy Decent Plaster?



## sitefive (20 Feb 2016)

Or the question is do you even have anything else available besides that red/pinkish stuff which you must apply in huuuuge amounts and its nightmare to work with since it dries so fast in contact with any dust/drywall itself, I get it that It must be used in huge amounts and all the wall must be covered with it in rather thick coat but do you have Any DIFFERENT plaster which you can apply in thin coats/which covers all imperfections without setting off almost instantly in contact with plasterboard and you don't need to cover all wall with it but only the areas which needs it?

Building materials/techniques over here in UK are just so much different than what I'm used to and mostly not in a good way, having used a decent plaster before and now using this I'm just damn frustrated how bad it is and hard to work with to get anything near good finish to what I'm used to.
I'm used to pay around £15 overseas for 25kg bag of it and it goes a looong way, now just bought this red stuff for £5 for 25kg bag , simply because I couldn't find anything else and it feels more like a clay render not a plaster!


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## RobinBHM (20 Feb 2016)

Bonding coat or multifinish?


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## n0legs (20 Feb 2016)

This just a case of you yet again wandering in to the wrong place and buying the wrong material.
If you want to fill joints and nail heads in plaster board why don't you buy drywall filler, plasterboard joint filler, jointing compound etc.
The "red/pinkish stuff" is finishing plaster, used by those with skill to plaster/skim a wall. It will never be very good as a general purpose filler due to it's limits of application thickness, it won't be very easy to sand either.

Maybe you should look up products made by Knauf or Lafarge, I'm fairly sure they may know a thing or two about fillers and plasters.

I guess the people you've spoken to about the plaster available here don't know what they've bought or for that matter how to use it either.

Britain's such a terrible place for _good_ craftsmen I wonder why anybody comes here these days :roll:


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## n0legs (20 Feb 2016)

RobinBHM":28o41aoo said:


> Bonding coat or multifinish?



I'll guarantee you he doesn't know the difference.


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## sitefive (20 Feb 2016)

http://www.diy.com/departments/thistle- ... 812_BQ.prd
I got this red stuff which is called multi finish but it feels more like a lumpy clay render , I get it that it has it's place and every country has different techniques but this stuff simply isn't easy to work with if you haven't mastered it nor is really practical.


I'm after a very very fine grain plaster ( pretty much sure cement based, not sure what that red stuff is made from?) 
And Yes the ones I have used before have been made by Knauf as well which has been good quality.


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## blackrodd (20 Feb 2016)

Plastering is a trade, you need to use the right plaster for the right job, working with Worn in tools and the skills to use them quickly, hence the fast setting time.
Be more specific with a background to be finished, and you'll get an answer, there are a couple of plasterers on here, I believe.
Different plastering materials for thermalite/ celcon type blocks. concrete block, stone, lime plaster cast concrete and various brick types, plasterboard,etc, etc.
Regards Rodders


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## blackrodd (20 Feb 2016)

If you don't know what the red stuff is made from, how do you know how to use it?
Knauf products are stocked by Wickes, If you've used it before, best stick to that.
Regards Rodders


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## sitefive (20 Feb 2016)

blackrodd":2bcova2f said:


> If you don't know what the red stuff is made from, how do you know how to use it?
> Knauf products are stocked by Wickes, If you've used it before, best stick to that.
> Regards Rodders



Thanks for suggestion, will head down to wickes and pick up a couple packs to test out, they do seem to have much better and wider product range than the B&Q in this area
Honestly at the price of £5 what that red stuff costs I could only expect that it would of have been made of rather gritty and not well processed stuff as the quality stuff never costs £5 but more like £15 for the bag even in much cheaper countries.

I imagine the red stuff would be good for making a straight wall out of a brick/block or any other really uneven wall ( that's what a render is used usually for) but not for a plasterboard which is already pretty much ready to paint.


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## Phil Pascoe (21 Feb 2016)

Wrong product again. RTFM.


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## sitefive (21 Feb 2016)

phil.p":1bryylpp said:


> Wrong product again. RTFM.


What I'm used to do with plasterboard is just taping the joints and than skimming the joints/screw holes/any other imperfections as needed and sanding between the coats, but NOT rendering it all in a plaster. For brick/block walls you render it all in plaster yes, but not plasterboard which is already pretty much ready to be painted.
Not sure why is that done over here? anyone have an explanation to that? Maybe just to add another weather-protecting layer?












This is the way I'm used to finish plasterboard, and you get a great/smooth finish without messing around.


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## n0legs (21 Feb 2016)

sitefive":11a4f2gk said:


> phil.p":11a4f2gk said:
> 
> 
> > Not sure why is that done over here? anyone have an explanation to that? Maybe just to add another weather-protecting layer?



A plaster finish pi$$es all over a plasterboard finish everyday. Jointing and taping is for people who can't plaster and yanks 

I'd have skimmed that ceiling by the time you'd picked the sandpaper up.


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## sitefive (21 Feb 2016)

n0legs":e5bsinrv said:


> sitefive":e5bsinrv said:
> 
> 
> > phil.p":e5bsinrv said:
> ...


let us be real, unless you spend ages mastering that skill you will never get as good/smooth finish.
Since I have no wish to work as a plasterer and maybe actually do that task once every few years I will stick to the easy way and still get good results


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## Phil Pascoe (21 Feb 2016)

I stick to the way I know I'll get a brilliant result. I pay someone well ... and they know if they screw it up I've a big mouth in places they could do without someone having a big mouth.


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## Adam9453 (21 Feb 2016)

Site five You do talk utter rubbish, just because YOU can't do it does not make it impossible.
You clearly haven't got a clue about plastering and should really employ someone who does, at least that might give you something new to complain about (how much plasterers charge in the uk blah blah).
I am not a professional plasterer but I got plasterers to teach me while they were doing the downstairs of our house.
I would put the finish quality of my plastering up against any professional but the difference is they would do it twice as fast or even quicker.
Plastering is like any skill, it takes practice, patience and dedication. From reading your posts I doubt it's for you.
Rant over


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## Beau (21 Feb 2016)

Gyproc easi fill http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-easi-fill

Brilliant stuff. Much easier to sand back than pink. Dry lined our ceiling with it like in the picture you posted. Never done it before and got spot on results.


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## Doug B (21 Feb 2016)

As beau says its easi fill you want for taping & covering screws & you'll be happy because it's a lot more expensive than finish plaster :mrgreen:


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## mindthatwhatouch (21 Feb 2016)

Beau beat me to it. 
Easifill or a similar jointing compound for JOINTING.
Plaster is for PLASTERING....


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## Graham Orm (21 Feb 2016)

You don't give the name of the product you're struggling with, it could be several different products, I'll assume it's finish (or skim), in which case is it board finish or multi-finish?


sitefive":3cvkvz21 said:


> Or the question is do you even have anything else available besides that red/pinkish stuff which you must apply in huuuuge amounts and its nightmare to work with since it dries so fast in contact with any dust/drywall itself,


It should remain workable for 20 minutes, if it only lasts a few minutes it's been kept in a damp environment and is useless.



sitefive":3cvkvz21 said:


> I get it that It must be used in huge amounts and all the wall must be covered with it in rather thick coat


It should be a thin coat 1mm thick, it's skim.



sitefive":3cvkvz21 said:


> but do you have Any DIFFERENT plaster which you can apply in thin coats/which covers all imperfections without setting off almost instantly in contact with plasterboard and you don't need to cover all wall with it but only the areas which needs it?


If you want to do it properly...all the wall needs it. The way the Americans do it by patching the screw holes and joints is a short cut bodge if you ask me. It will leave you with a paper coated wall that won't withstand any knocks at all.



sitefive":3cvkvz21 said:


> Building materials/techniques over here in UK are just so much different than what I'm used to and mostly not in a good way, having used a decent plaster before and now using this I'm just damn frustrated how bad it is and hard to work with to get anything near good finish to what I'm used to.
> I'm used to pay around £15 overseas for 25kg bag of it and it goes a looong way, now just bought this red stuff for £5 for 25kg bag , simply because I couldn't find anything else and it feels more like a clay render not a plaster!


It should feel like Talcum powder to touch and should be mixed to the consistency of ointment.

In a nutshell:

Step one: Find out what you're using.
Step two: Find out how to use it.
Step three: Avoid going on a UK forum criticizing UK products and techniques if you want help.

Alternative step: Go back to where you were when you found things much easier.

You're welcome.


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## Woody2Shoes (21 Feb 2016)

Skimming with finish plaster is a skill - and requires a fair bit of physical stamina, especially on large areas. I have taught myself how to do it by studying and talking to others doing it, by watching youtube and by studying the British Gypsum "White Book" - which is on their website and it extremely helpful. It is not rocket science, but it helps a great deal if you think/plan about what you're doing very carefully beforehand (he says) - and ideally have a reasonably fit helper.

Multifinish should be a creamy, not stodgy, consistency with absolutely no lumps.

Besides choosing the right product(s) according to the instructions, a key success factor is to understand the way in which the substrate pulls water out of the plaster - using PVA as a way to reduce that effect in certain cases.

There's no reason why you can't use the methods of taping and jointing that you're more familiar with - the tools and materials are readily available e.g. http://www.diyfixit.co.uk/building/dry- ... board.html My personal perception is that this method saves a bit on materials and requires somewhat less skill, but the results are not necessarily as good looking or as durable (having lived in houses/flats where both techniques have been used).

Cheers, W2S

PS most people - who haven't got the luxury of time, or the inclination, to learn - find it much easier to pay a "pro" to do it for them!


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## John15 (21 Feb 2016)

Could this guy just be winding people up? I can't imagine anyone can be so dim.

John


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## Beau (21 Feb 2016)

John15":3vuuxjrg said:


> Could this guy just be winding people up? I can't imagine anyone can be so dim.
> 
> John



It just sounds like a mix up with terminology either side of the pond. Can't see the need to be so rude.


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## doctor Bob (21 Feb 2016)

sitefive":1m95qb21 said:


> What I'm used to do with plasterboard is just taping the joints and than skimming the joints/screw holes/any other imperfections as needed and sanding between the coats, but NOT rendering it all in a plaster. For brick/block walls you render it all in plaster yes, but not plasterboard which is already pretty much ready to be painted.
> This is the way I'm used to finish plasterboard, and you get a great/smooth finish without messing around.



If you like raw plasterboard finish thats fine, but it looks terrible, damages really easily and is impossible to repair. 
Cheap house builders use this technique, we call them cowboys.

By the way, you are moaning again. Do you understand how whingy you are, moan moan f**king moan. You have even started to moan on other forums I'm on, different name but I have started to recognise the sheer whingyness of your posts.

Have you ever thought it may be you........... not the timber, not the tools, not the materials etc etc.


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## sitefive (21 Feb 2016)

Ok Bought the easyfill plaster and it seems of good quality, the grits def are super super tiny so is ideal for this. Dries rather fast as well and seems to sand pretty easily.
Bloody expensive tho at £16 for 10kg but seems to go a long way and most importantly - It does the job!
Thanks for the suggestion!

You seriously can't get anywhere in Life or improve yourself if you don't moan and try to find the best solution for each process you need!
I have no education/training in joinery/building whatsoever nor have anyone that will show me most of the things, have to figure everything out myself as I go.


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## doctor Bob (21 Feb 2016)

Ask nicely, not rocket science. Stop moaning you sound like a schoolgirl.


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## AJB Temple (21 Feb 2016)

"You seriously can't get anywhere in Life or improve yourself if you don't moan and try to find the best solution for each process you need!
I have no education/training in joinery/building whatsoever nor have anyone that will show me most of the things, have to figure everything out myself as I go."

Unfortunately Sitefive, you have chosen to settle in England. There are two ways in which you might take this statement. By and large the English can't abide moaners. It is seen as weak and rather pathetic. It seriously affects the willingness of people to help you, since many of your posts have a theme along the lines of how bad we are versus where you used to be. You will get more friendly help if you adopt a more constructive tone. It is not at all necessary to moan.


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## tomatwark (21 Feb 2016)

In answer to the question buy it from a builders merchant and not a DIY shop, it will be a lot cheaper as well.

Having had to get the plaster we use to repair walls in kitchens when they have been taped and filled during refits, you can not beat a good plaster skim.

Do you moan at the local suppliers as well ?

All you seem to do on here is complain about them.

May be they think here he comes again and just can't be bothered with you, try not complaining and may be they will help you, if you are not sure.


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## Lons (21 Feb 2016)

What a wind up! You don't half post some cr*p :roll: 

I'm not going to comment much 'cos it's all been said but if you buy from B&Poo without knowing what you need you'll get the wrong product and considering some of the comments on here and your other threads you're going to quickly run out of members willing to help you.

Need to change your attitude and if you'd bothered to google how to fill drywall taped joints you would immediately have found the info you required. If however as you say you've done it before albeit abroad, you would know that already as many of the materials are international.

_Edit: BTW I'm a retired builder and can plaster to an acceptable though not perfect degree and might have tried to help someone who asked in the right manner which you did not! - Quit moaning_


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## Bm101 (21 Feb 2016)

All I'm saying about plastering versus skimming joints is this. How many American films have you seen where they're punching through walls, grabbing people through walls and dragging them off screaming into the night. How many times? _All The Bleeding Time_. 
Nearly every other film has some fella getting shot to shizzle behind some drywall. Nearly _ANY FILM_ you watch from has some poor luckless b*stard dying because of the inferior quality of American wall finishes. 

Now, you never see that with British plastering do you? 

You didn't see Hugh Grant getting dragged off through the wall by zombie clawhands in Three Weddings and a Funeral. When Begbie chucks a pint over the balcony in Trainspotting all you hear are the screams of the injured as the pub erupts into one massive bloody fight. The Pub doesn't_ itself _explode due to the poor quality scrimtaping that has taken place in the past because of a lack of PPS. (Proper Plastering Skills).

When a young Ray Winstone asks 'Where's yer tool!?!' in Scum, you don't see Borstal erupting into flames and than collapsing into rubble and the PrimeMinister get sniped through the eye by a slow motion bullet that bends round corners.

Why?
PPS. That's why.

I also have a theory about why Arch Villains are nearly always all Brits in American films. But I won't go into that here. Cor Blimey Mary Poppins no I won't Gawd bless me eyes.


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## tomatwark (21 Feb 2016)

Lons
B&Poo are probably the only place that he can go to, as you will know, you need to have a good working relationship with your local builders merchant and if he goes on like this in there it won't help.


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## Wuffles (21 Feb 2016)

Bm101":3cfcbxhd said:


> All I'm saying about plastering versus skimming joints is this. How many American films have you seen where they're punching through walls, grabbing people through walls and dragging them off screaming into the night. How many times? _All The Bleeding Time_.
> Nearly every other film has some fella getting shot to shizzle behind some drywall. Nearly _ANY FILM_ you watch from has some poor luckless b*stard dying because of the inferior quality of American wall finishes.
> 
> Now, you never see that with British plastering do you?
> ...



=D> 

Hurrah sir.

You missed Lethal Weapon 3, they hadn't even constructed the drywall at the point it all turned to rubbish at the end of that film. Pre-emptive taping and jointing my friend. The building *knew* what was coming.


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## lurker (22 Feb 2016)

tomatwark":21gmq889 said:


> Lons
> B&Poo are probably the only place that he can go to, as you will know, you need to have a good working relationship with your local builders merchant and if he goes on like this in there it won't help.



You dont actually believe he moans to people in real life do you?
Its only on the internet from the safety of his bedroom.


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## No skills (22 Feb 2016)

Another fantastic thread from start to finish, great read  

What's next? 
Will Barry the kiwi beat his alcohol problem?
Can Terry get the car repaired before his wife finds out he crashed it?
Will busty Joanne get the kids to the school trip in time?

All this in next week's episode...


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## Lons (22 Feb 2016)

No skills":20bjib4y said:


> Another fantastic thread from start to finish, great read
> 
> What's next?
> Will Barry the kiwi beat his alcohol problem?
> ...


 :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## tomatwark (22 Feb 2016)

Next weeks episode is call

Why don't no1 pozi bits work with no2 screws in this country.


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## Adam9453 (22 Feb 2016)

tomatwark":37jxxr14 said:


> Next weeks episode is call
> 
> Why don't no1 pozi bits work with no2 screws in this country.



followed shortly by the screws are better and cheaper where i used to moan!!


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## lurker (22 Feb 2016)

Well I'd certainly be moaning if I bought screws from B&Q.
Major rip off!


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## lurker (22 Feb 2016)

"I have no education/training in joinery/building whatsoever nor have anyone that will show me most of the things, have to figure everything out myself as I go."

But you have a massive amount of hands on experience; after all you designed & built a complete house from ground up " back home" :roll:

couple-teach-themselves-to-build-a-timber-framed-house-t84827-30.html


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## blackrodd (22 Feb 2016)

You really ought to get out and research more, Tapered edge plasterboard can be skimmed or jointed, as you have done.
Don't use paper tape, beginners always have problems getting the tap flat and bedded in the jointing compound.
Fiba, self adhesive tape is superior in strength and no need to flatten, or expell any air, which would leave a bubble 
That is easily seen.
Fit the fiba tape in the joints and internals, mix up the compound, small amounts to start, fill the joints and keep everything clean, Don't go over the 5" well formed by the tapered edges, spot the screws or nail heads 3 times
Jointing compound is designed to shrink, so unless different instructions are on you're bag you should apply 3 coats
for a perfectly flush and seamless joint,
A light sanding to finish, be careful not to damage the paper each side.
90% of houses have metal or timber stud walls upstairs which are plaster boarded, Its not "jerry built" its done for weight and time factors.
Taping and jointing is very fast and quick to dry out as opposed to conventional wet plastering trades,
All those gallons of water from drying plaster affects the timber inside including the door linings, 
And can take 3 weeks or more to dry out.
A good hand joiner should finish a 3 bed house in 4 days, and the moment he leaves you can paint the walls etc.
But many people prefer a skim finish on plasterboard, dry lined or stud.
Regards Rodders


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## DennisCA (22 Feb 2016)

I did my whole house (which was built by professionals, we merely did the interior finish, I have a thread on this forum somewhere in archives if anyone want to see how it's done in finland) which is timber framed and uses drywall, the paper tape thing took a room or so before I had it down. Still, I wouldn't want to do this kind of work for a living.

Never given much thought to drywall before, I got it in my garage, my dad has it in his workshop / boiler room built in the late 70s (a farmer & welder), still holding up.

Corners btw should be reinforced with metal brackets that are plastered over. For non 90 degree corners there are special tape with metal embedded.


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## Graham Orm (22 Feb 2016)

No skills":2b8j74a4 said:


> Another fantastic thread from start to finish, great read
> 
> What's next?
> Will Barry the kiwi beat his alcohol problem?
> ...



:lol: :lol: :lol:


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## sawdust1 (22 Feb 2016)

You think he moans a lot, my other half makes him sound like a beginner !


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## tomatwark (22 Feb 2016)

The next episode has just been changed to

Mr Sawdust and the strange case of the pile of bags on the door step


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## MIGNAL (23 Feb 2016)

Crikey! What a load of old tosh has been uttered in this thread. Quite frankly from people who should know a lot better. 
Plasterboard, dry, wet, who gives a sht. It's carp modern rubbish anyway. 
This is far superior and you don't need any silly tape or screws. BTW Don't bother painting it or wallpapering. The surface texture is decorative as is:


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## Woody2Shoes (23 Feb 2016)

MIGNAL":24o8dkga said:


> ....
> This is far superior and you don't need any silly tape or screws. BTW Don't bother painting it or wallpapering. The surface texture is decorative as is:



Ah.. but you need to decide whether to limewash it, and then you have to decide how much pig's blood/cat urine/dog bile to add to the mix, and then there's the question of when to do the work in relation to the phases of the moon etc. etc.....


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## Wuffles (23 Feb 2016)

Woody2Shoes":h7wmcgxp said:


> pig's blood/cat urine/dog bile



That is essentially the stain pattern of our flagstone floor.

Never have an indoor hog roast "because the weather's not looking good is it". 

Ever.

I'm kidding, about the pig's blood anyway, the rest of it is there in abundance.


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## Lons (23 Feb 2016)

lurker":3ijjvsps said:


> "I have no education/training in joinery/building whatsoever nor have anyone that will show me most of the things, have to figure everything out myself as I go."
> 
> But you have a massive amount of hands on experience; after all you designed & built a complete house from ground up " back home" :roll:
> 
> couple-teach-themselves-to-build-a-timber-framed-house-t84827-30.html




:lol: :lol: :lol: It's astonishing how easily some people can shoot themselves in the foot. I guess the OP has some memory loss as well maybe? :wink:


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## Bm101 (23 Feb 2016)

MIGNAL":9rkcri46 said:


> Crikey! What a load of old tosh has been uttered in this thread. Quite frankly from people who should know a lot better.
> Plasterboard, dry, wet, who gives a sht. It's carp modern rubbish anyway.
> This is far superior and you don't need any silly tape or screws. BTW Don't bother painting it or wallpapering. The surface texture is decorative as is:



Pffft all you Johnny-come-latelys with your new fangled wattle and daub technologies. 

Here's the Mrs just getting ready to fit the roof on our new place. Wish her luck.


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## Mark A (23 Feb 2016)

Bm101":2zm3fgkk said:


> Here's the Mrs just getting ready to fit the roof on our new place. Wish her luck.



Bit of an exhibitionist, isn't she?


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## blackrodd (23 Feb 2016)

Bm101":3hqbozr1 said:


> MIGNAL":3hqbozr1 said:
> 
> 
> > Crikey! What a load of old tosh has been uttered in this thread. Quite frankly from people who should know a lot better.
> ...



Ravishing, you lucky man!
Rodders


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## woodpig (23 Feb 2016)

The office in my last job was made with metal stud partitioning and double plasterboard. The joints were taped and then had compound applied. The decorators gave the joints a quick rub down and gave the walls two costs of white paint with a roller and you couldn't see the seams at all. Plastering takes skill and costs a few quid, almost anyone can tape and fill joints in plasterboard and get a good result it seems.


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## Wuffles (23 Feb 2016)

As has been said though, repairing a tear in plasterboard is more difficult (I'd imagine), whereas plaster is une doddle., as the French say. That may be about plater of Paris, but you get the argument.


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## No skills (23 Feb 2016)

I'm not sure I'd agree that a plaster repair is easier than plasterboard repair, I think we're just not as familiar with the methods as say the Americans are. YouTube rules for info here. 
With the quick drying compounds available plasterboard repairs may even be faster to do.


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## sitefive (23 Feb 2016)

Clearly I did shoot myself in the foot by asking for a plaster suggestion when I haven't used this type of materials here and the one I have seen used by everyone else failed on me.
Anyway If anyone is looking to do the same ( to get decent finish on plasterboard without the mess/mastering of the ''proper plastering'' ) than the Gyproc Easi-Fill is really OK stuff for this, had to do 3 passes with sanding between each to get seamless finish and at a cost of around £14 for tape/ the amount of filling compound I used and about 4hours in total over 2days to get 18m2 room ready to be painted.


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## Wuffles (23 Feb 2016)

I meant more practically, I guess sanding back a fill where you've had to first of all cut the paper rips away means you're using paint on top of paper as your datum to get the fill back to flat. I'm too heavy handed for that, I've tried it 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## No skills (23 Feb 2016)

You and me both dear boy  

Viv la bodge (hammer)


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## lurker (24 Feb 2016)

apropos of nothing: the transatlantic ex-colonials refer to wall filler as Spackle which somehow has an appropriate ring.


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## mind_the_goat (24 Feb 2016)

Well, I learnt something, I always wondered why you buy plasterboard, then have to cover it up with more plaster. I can see the fill and sand option might work on a ceiling, but I tried sanding a wall once, and I wouldn't want to do it again, my neighbour compared it to a scene from Die Hard when I exited from the front door to get some air. 

Site five, if you've not worked it out yet, the correct approach would have been to explain what you wanted to do and ask what product to use, not buy the wrong product then complain it's rubbish. Still you got the answer in the end and appear to have entertained some people.


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## Phil Pascoe (24 Feb 2016)

If you made that much mess you were doing something wrong. It's dirty, but not that dirty.


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## mind_the_goat (24 Feb 2016)

phil.p":cd8x3h6e said:


> If you made that much mess you were doing something wrong. It's dirty, but not that dirty.



The belt sander seemed a good idea at the time #-o


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## Wuffles (24 Feb 2016)

mind_the_goat":1gv0gvm8 said:


> phil.p":1gv0gvm8 said:
> 
> 
> > If you made that much mess you were doing something wrong. It's dirty, but not that dirty.
> ...



Belt sander on a stick for the high up bits?


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## DennisCA (24 Feb 2016)

There are special machines for that, we call them giraffes. Not sure what it's called in english.


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## RobinBHM (24 Feb 2016)

I think in this country tape and fill method of plasterboarding is used mostly commercially, IE in office partitioning.

It isnt really a method used domestically for housebuilding either new build or refurbishment / extensions.

I dont know if plasterboarding with square edge boards and skim coating actually takes any longer for a plasterer than tape and fill -probably not for a typical sized room in a house. I expect it would make a difference for office partitioning where jobs could easily be 1000's of square metres. Offices are often finished with wall paper -that massive wide stuff, so maybe a perfect finish isnt required.

One thing I really dont like is dot and dab plasterboarding -what a pain for any subsequent fitting work!


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## blackrodd (24 Feb 2016)

sitefive":383i5ggo said:


> Clearly I did shoot myself in the foot by asking for a plaster suggestion when I haven't used this type of materials here and the one I have seen used by everyone else failed on me.
> Anyway If anyone is looking to do the same ( to get decent finish on plasterboard without the mess/mastering of the ''proper plastering'' ) than the Gyproc Easi-Fill is really OK stuff for this, had to do 3 passes with sanding between each to get seamless finish and at a cost of around £14 for tape/ the amount of filling compound I used and about 4hours in total over 2days to get 18m2 room ready to be painted.



At 2.88 metres a sheet, 18sq metres isn't a room, is a cupboard!
Rodders


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## blackrodd (24 Feb 2016)

RobinBHM":q40lfq3w said:


> I think in this country tape and fill method of plasterboarding is used mostly commercially, IE in office partitioning.
> 
> It isnt really a method used domestically for housebuilding either new build or refurbishment / extensions.
> 
> ...



I think the bigger more expensive houses are skimmed, it means a delay in drying time, and most of the others are taped and jointed by hand or machine.
Rodders


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## woodpig (24 Feb 2016)

The other thing about using compound is no mixing and no mess. The guy opened the tub and then applied the compound with some kind of plastic spreader. After he finished he just wiped the spreader down put the lid on the tub and he was out the door.


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## dickm (24 Feb 2016)

Taping, with just a skim over the tape seems to be the preferred method at all cost levels up here in NE Scotland.


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## adidat (24 Feb 2016)

I'm just sitting here trying to work out how some one uses 3 cubes of timber a month, and without any training??? 



Burning it?


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## lurker (24 Feb 2016)

adidat":24cge15d said:


> I'm just sitting here trying to work out how some one uses 3 cubes of timber a month, and without any training???
> 
> 
> 
> Burning it?



That's in his spare time. He is considering packing up his full time IT job.


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## Lons (24 Feb 2016)

RobinBHM":wkzftrg4 said:


> I think in this country tape and fill method of plasterboarding is used mostly commercially, IE in office partitioning.
> 
> It isnt really a method used domestically for housebuilding either new build or refurbishment / extensions.



It's a lot more common in houses from the mainstream builders that you might realise and not just low cost houses either Robin.


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## sitefive (24 Feb 2016)

woodpig":19dx0f2b said:


> The other thing about using compound is no mixing and no mess. The guy opened the tub and then applied the compound with some kind of plastic spreader. After he finished he just wiped the spreader down put the lid on the tub and he was out the door.


that's the thing, I started on late sunday with nothing but freshly drywall lined room which I did earlier, yesterday (tuesday night) I had it all already painted and new laminate lied in and all finished ready to move furniture back in, in the same 2.5days I also had to rip up the floor and align the old crooked floorboards/ replace a couple meters of heating pipes and put up new radiator along with a few new electricity sockets and do some other bits&bobs.
Hardly doubt that I would be able to do that even in 2x longer timeframe If I had to learn how to properly skim the wall with the red nasty plaster I had no luck working with in first place and wait for it to fully dry as well.


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## blackrodd (24 Feb 2016)

woodpig":1ja3lmwa said:


> The other thing about using compound is no mixing and no mess. The guy opened the tub and then applied the compound with some kind of plastic spreader. After he finished he just wiped the spreader down put the lid on the tub and he was out the door.



Readymix joint cement from Gyproc has been consistently good over the years, but there are others now,
Wickes version was ok when I last used it.
As you say ready mix is excellent for smaller and repair jobs, and no mixing mess!
Rodders


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## RogerS (25 Feb 2016)

adidat":egv65t0v said:


> I'm just sitting here trying to work out how some one uses 3 cubes of timber a month, and without any training???
> 
> 
> 
> Burning it?



Making lots of mistakes ?


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## DennisCA (25 Feb 2016)

woodpig":2cn0ultc said:


> The other thing about using compound is no mixing and no mess. The guy opened the tub and then applied the compound with some kind of plastic spreader. After he finished he just wiped the spreader down put the lid on the tub and he was out the door.



Yeah that's how we did it, probably used up 4-5 tubs of the stuff. Drywall is taped & jointed, screw holes are filled like described above, with a skilled person doing the spackling at this, sanding might be superfluous later, the more amateur you are the more sanding you have ahead of you... Then walls are usually wallpapered or painted, or a combination of both. Interior walls are also filled with rockwool insulation for sound dampening between rooms.

Wallpaper or paint is probably the norm in scandinavia, and if drywall isn't used then it's probably wooden boards. Another common thing is to use plywood or OSB behind the drywall to make it easier to hang heavy things from them without having to find a stud.


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## lurker (25 Feb 2016)

sitefive":2dcz9stq said:


> ................along with a few new electricity sockets .............



Guess you will be signing off the P certificate this evening then?


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## RobinBHM (25 Feb 2016)

Lons":6ep5poij said:


> RobinBHM":6ep5poij said:
> 
> 
> > I think in this country tape and fill method of plasterboarding is used mostly commercially, IE in office partitioning.
> ...



I must admit, I hadn't realised that, Ive never come across tape and fill on new build, however most sites Ive visited for site measuring of joinery are usually small developers and large executive houses.


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