# Any ideas on a home made wall saw ?



## JFC (1 Oct 2006)

Many of you may have the same problem as me , when i want to cut an 8x4 sheet i need to move machines out of the way to do it . Id love to have a wall saw but the cost puts me off . 
Seeing Scrits post on old machinery got me thinking (again) about mounting a circular saw on some kind of guide .
Can we build a forum wall saw ?
Let me rephrase that , can we build a safe forum wall saw :lol:


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## wrightclan (1 Oct 2006)

JFC":2i3hbymg said:


> Many of you may have the same problem as me , when i want to cut an 8x4 sheet i need to move machines out of the way to do it . Id love to have a wall saw but the cost puts me off .
> Seeing Scrits post on old machinery got me thinking (again) about mounting a circular saw on some kind of guide .
> Can we build a forum wall saw ?
> Let me rephrase that , can we build a safe forum wall saw :lol:



I think "American Woodworker" had plans for one about a year or so ago? My Dad knows someone who built one one and likes it. You mount a handheld circular saw into it. Not sure if it would meet British HSE legislation; but I'll try to see if I can find the article.

Brad


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## DaveL (1 Oct 2006)

JFC, 

Ian Dalziel has already been there and done it. :shock: 

You need to take a look at Good Woodworking #143, Ian built an Iroko frame and mounted a saw on a plate that moves on tubes. 

Steve Maskery in the same issue showed how he cuts sheets up on the frame that fits on the rafters, using a cutting guide.


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## Scrit (1 Oct 2006)

OK

I've been thinking about this for a while. To get the quality of cut the saw needs to run in some sort of guide which will run smoothly. It is possible to get hold of a type of low-cost linear bearing which runs in steel Unistrut (the U-channel used by electricians, heating/ventilation engineers, etc to support their stuff in commercial buildings):







One of the people who do this stuff in the UK are Tyco, but the bearings I seem to recall are sold by Hepco (may not be right there, but I have a supplier and data on file somewhere). With Unistrut and linear bearings it should be possible to build a Y-axis "ladder" to support a carraige which in turn holds a decent-sized portable circular saw. To get the scoring action it might be worth looking at a negative rake blade, such as a mitre/chop saw blade. Haven't figured out how to do variable depths yet, but I'd suspect just use the portable saw's depth of cut adjustment would do. The entire Y-axis carraige would need to run in the X-axis on two more Unistrut linear ways which in turn would need to be supported on a bed angled somewhere between 10 and 30 degrees off vertical. And I reckon it would need dust extraction and the ways would need to face downwards and incorporate wipers to stop them from clogging up. An alternative might be to use something like a low friction "dry" bearing such as the Pacific Simplicity which runs on ground steel bar. They are good in dusty environments, but cost more (still cheap as linears go, though)

Might be nice if the saw could be mounted on a turntable so it could do vertical and horizontal cuts

As you can see, I have given this some tought in the past  

Scrit


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## JFC (2 Oct 2006)

Ok its been done but lets see what the forum can turn up to make it better . I was thinking of using a clamp and guide with its saw holder plate but Scrit seems to have thought about it for longer than me  
Should we put a price limit on this ?


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## Dave S (2 Oct 2006)

Shopnotes 88 also has plans.

Dave


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## wrightclan (2 Oct 2006)

Plans and hardware available here. These aren't the plans I referred to earlier, but there's a few out there.

Brad


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## JFC (2 Oct 2006)

That only seems to cross cut . Needs to rip aswell , but if you locked the saw in place and had rollers on the bed you could push the work through . Then you would need a good 20' of free wall space  . I can see myself googling all night on this one .


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## wrightclan (2 Oct 2006)

JFC":1twfvpus said:


> That only seems to cross cut . Needs to rip aswell . I can see myself googling all night on this one .


 If you alter the dimensions of the saw (i.e. make it taller) you could rip or crosscut depending on the direction you turn the board. But as you say, keep googling, and you'll find all kinds of ideas. Take the best ideas from them all, and give us all plans for the ultimate panel saw for pennies. :lol: 

Brad


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## Scrit (2 Oct 2006)

The way I was thinking is much more like a Holz-Her wall saw - they can long rip as well as crosscut. To achieve that you need to be able to rotate the saw through 90 degrees and then lock the carraige in the Y-axis plane. Another thought about scoring is have a 2-position (dual height) carraige - shallow cut taken backwards with an ATB (alternate top bevel) blade then drop to full depth for the main rip cut.

Cost savings? Ignore the X-axis (rip axis) and just have the Y-axs carraige, but thesupport shelf at the bottom could have rollers inserted to roll the sheet through beneath a locked carraige. Lock cost low-friction rollers? Use skateboard wheels - v. low friction, ply wheels (therefore non-marring) and cheap.

Scrit


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## Scrit (2 Oct 2006)

wrightclan":3qexwz5h said:


> If you alter the dimensions of the saw (i.e. make it taller) you could rip or crosscut depending on the direction you turn the board. But as you say, keep googling, and you'll find all kinds of ideas. Take the best ideas from them all, and give us all plans for the ultimate panel saw for pennies. :lol:


Brad, I feel there is a finite limit as to how high you can go. You need to raise a sheet maybe 250 to 400mm off the floor to accommodate the linear motion gubbins, frame base (feet), etc. Add 2440 mm plus some "wiggle" room and you are at the limit (or beyond it) of many small shops. And you won't even begin to touch an MFC jumbo at 2,8 metres x 2.0 metres.

One nice feature on Holz-Hers and ithers is that there is one or more flip-down "shelves" at different heights on the saw. This means yopu don't do your back in doing repeat narrow rips as they can be done at a more convenient height once the initial cuts are out of the way

Happy googling!

Scrit


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## wrightclan (2 Oct 2006)

Scrit":31btxzc8 said:


> wrightclan":31btxzc8 said:
> 
> 
> > If you alter the dimensions of the saw (i.e. make it taller) you could rip or crosscut depending on the direction you turn the board. But as you say, keep googling, and you'll find all kinds of ideas. Take the best ideas from them all, and give us all plans for the ultimate panel saw for pennies. :lol:
> ...



Yeah, I know. But by the time you start engineering a homemade saw that will be up to the standard of an industrial vertical panel saw; and you make it capable of easily switching axes accurately, I'm afraid you might be encroaching the price territory of a commercially available unit.

Somebody please prove me wrong--I mean that somebody please do!


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## Fecn (2 Oct 2006)

Shopnotes nubmer 4 also has plans for a shop-built panel saw.

Fecn


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## engineer one (2 Oct 2006)

jason, i guess almost everybody wishes for a tool like this,
but in fact either in front or the rear, you need 8 feet to put
the board onto the saw, unless you can push the support to one end.

i would wonder whether there it is sensible to consider your saw as being
on the outside of a panel store, i mean if you need and store more than one sheet at a time, you need somewhere other than the floor to store it
else you are always stepping over it. getting it in and out of the store
needs the 8 foot entry egress space.

iwonder whether it is possible to adapt the triton top to such a thing
maybe a job for barry burgess. seem to remember that the triton 
table has a turn table available for the saw, or am i completely
off the wall there?? what ever, you need then a carriage which 
at the top will be say 2000 mm high, and the bottom as scrit says
about 300 mm off the floor. how about black iron, or scaffolding
pipes and their fixings. you would need two horizontal ones
and the vertical ones around the "turntable".

like the rockler design you could use mdf planks, and then have 
fold down slats to hold the narrower pieces.

i noticed in my last rockler email they have some new 
black iron pipe connectors, wonder whether they could be 
modified to work.

you would need to run the saw cable above the machine, and have
it in a situation that it does not become too loose when the saw is
at the top, and too tight at the bottom. you also need safety ties on the 
turntable, and also to ensure that the wood does not fall off after 
cutting hence scrit's idea about slanting the support backwards.

the depth of cut really only needs to be 35 mm since rarely are
we dealing with sheets thicker than 30 mm. i am not ignoring worktops
but one tends more often to work with those in situ. but you do need 
a locking plunge action. even the small mafell would do this.

i am sure that there are more than two turntables out there in the 
market place, but whether they are only for routers i am not 
sure. somewhere my memory bank points me to a canadian system 
that was supposed to allow you to cut different angles for narrow
stock, but might work if slightly modified.

paul :wink:


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## JFC (2 Oct 2006)

Thats the point isnt it , we build a wall saw that can do both .
Its nice to know that while most are asleep im not the only one trying to build a wall saw :lol:


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## engineer one (2 Oct 2006)

ok jason, now i get it you really want to buy the big legacy, and 
are thinking how can you adapt it so it cuts sheets too :lol: :twisted: 

well i am off to the land of nod, but will think more in the morning.
i think though we need to adapt the shopnotes model.

paul :wink:


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## Ed (2 Oct 2006)

It's 3:15am - are you still working on that saw Jason? 
 

The new addition to the family (not a new power tool!) is playing havoc with my sleep patterns... she is only 72 hours old.

I'll be dropping the ladies off in Ashford for a couple of hours tomorrow so if you are around tomorrow I could do with a cup of tea and a biscuit!

I'll bring over shopnotes 88 with the wall panel saw plans - might spark a few more ideas.

Cheers

Ed


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## mailee (2 Oct 2006)

JFC, You may find this article useful. I came across it when I was thinking of building one. It looks to be the best design I found. :wink: 
http://www.shopnotes.com/main/sn88-toc.html 
This one shows a video of it in action: 
http://www.shopnotes.com/main/onlineextras.html


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## JFC (2 Oct 2006)

Awwwwww Congratulations Ed ccasion5:   :tool: 
Im in the workshop all day today or i wont be far if im not . 
Just give me a call before you leave to come here and ill make sure the kettle is on .


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## JFC (2 Oct 2006)

Mailee , that looks like the one doesnt it . I wonder what the costs are for the tracks ? Ill know more later if Ed remembers the shop notes :lol:


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## wizer (2 Oct 2006)

this is very interesting, might have to consider one for my new shop!


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## engineer one (2 Oct 2006)

pretty sure(saw ) that was what i meant to, wish i could get my 
head round this link thingie!

minor thought though, when you are ripping the long sheets, might it not 
be sensible to have some kind of gadget to keep the cut open.
i know they don't on holzers, but i think we would have to cut more
slowly so might the far end not tip down enough to cause a problem???
paul :wink:


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## Scrit (2 Oct 2006)

Thought they called that a riving knife? :lol: 

Scrit


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## engineer one (2 Oct 2006)

well yes scrit, but what about one of those clips they now sell
when you are hand cutting sheets. 

my thinking is that the weight of the board behind the cut
is greater when it is vertical than when horizontal,
thus you might well get more tear out with the wall saw.
small point in the scheme of things, but maybe important later
when in production. :twisted: 

paul :wink:


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## JFC (2 Oct 2006)

I think its called a chippys mate , ive got one here but i cant find it online .


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## mrbingley (2 Oct 2006)

I wouldn't have thought it needed to have anything to keep the cut open.
Once the sheet touches together at the end, it's self supporting and the riving knife keeps it open before and after it touches together.
If you really feel the need for additional support, just bung a small wedge in as you're cutting.

Chris.


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## Scrit (2 Oct 2006)

mrbingley":3igng8jk said:


> I wouldn't have thought it needed to have anything to keep the cut open.
> Once the sheet touches together at the end, it's self supporting and the riving knife keeps it open before and after it touches together.


Exactly! Go watch someone ripping on a HolzHer or the like and that's what you'll see - there is no mechanism for holding the cut open. I've use on of these saws in anger only two or three times but it isn't a problem. The biggest problem is remembering to take care setting up cuts so that your rip cuts and crosscuts are done where the horizontal/vertical gaps in the bed are (so you don't saw your bed strips to pieces)

Scrit


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## engineer one (2 Oct 2006)

i sort of agree scrit, just that i think holzer users tend to work
somewhat more quickly, and probably with slightly less care
than many working at home might, also i think the saw will
be used more slowly because of the power differential.  

but if we forget these things now, it is very difficult to build them
in afterwards. :? 

paul :wink:


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## Ian Dalziel (2 Oct 2006)

This might be relevant for this topic…..I built this specifically for use outdoors about 3 years ago…its still going….my saw and router are removable so weather doesn’t affect them…the rails are 25mm aluminium tubess with nylon running linear bushings…runs as good today as it did 3 years ago and has been in the weather…it did require a realign this summer though but only to be expected.
the counter weights are from old sash windows….the top is adjustable so I can align it for cutting square…it has extension wings for cutting full 8x4’s works great for my needs and all plans are in GWW.
Steve Maskery also has one same issue


















Ian


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## engineer one (2 Oct 2006)

love the wheels ian :twisted: 

how do you rotate the saw for ripping?

looks like a woodworker made it. :lol: 
paul :wink:


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## Ian Dalziel (2 Oct 2006)

easy...i made a few mdf boards for it....remove the 4 T knobs and rotate it 90 degrees.

it was built by a woodworker  :shock: ...i've only been doing metalwork for about a year now :lol: and really enjoyng it

I


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## Scrit (2 Oct 2006)

engineer one":2lkvkfaa said:


> .....just that i think holzer users tend to work
> somewhat more quickly, and probably with slightly less care
> than many working at home might, also I think the saw will
> be used more slowly because of the power differential.


I've seen wall saws used in kitchen carcass shops and working to tolerances of 1mm or less, although, yes, the trades do tend to use them as a quick and dirty sheet stock breakdown mechanism used before applying materials to the spindle, router, etc

Ian

Nice one! Never thought of doing an outdoors machine (mainly 'coz it rains too much round here to guarantee ever getting to use it when I need it), I had also missed the need for a counterweight  

Looks like a very safe way to do dados....... (or housings or that maytter)

Scrit


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## JFC (2 Oct 2006)

:shock: Very nice !!!
Ian , do you push the material past the saw for doing rips along the 8' ?


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## Ian Dalziel (2 Oct 2006)

> do you push the material past the saw for doing rips along the 8'



yes ...clamp in place....position the saw...then push...I bought a cheepie B&Q laser rip saw which is actually pretty good for the dosh.....i have never used it for length ripping though...i have the unisaw for that 8) ....it just helps get the stuff into more manageable sizes.
Steve Maskerys saw is also a handy gadget that swings down from the rafters and allows the use of a festool setup quite easily...not much use in my workshop as i dont have the space to allow it to swing down hence i did one for outside attached to the fence....Steves is a neat idea though.

I did mine for a woodworking magazine project hence the wheels etc are all guaged around wood.....the aluminium stuff is all easily available...you just need to learn to look and ask....

Dave L gave the issue no at the start of the thread.

Scrit...yes it will do dado's etc with ease...i have a picture somewhere with the router in it...i'll need to dig it out.

You definately need the counterbalance...it also needs to be slightly overweight as this pulls the saw back upto its starting position.....from memory when i weighed it the whole lot inc carriage was about 13Lb...i used a 15lb weight or should i say a 10 and a 5....i couldnt find correct weights anywhere and went with the sash window stuff....i suppose you could go with a spring set up. it move really easy though
I had to make mine adjustable because of the natural material...ie Iroko...it will move over time and i needed adjustment 

I


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## wizer (2 Oct 2006)

do you think something like this could be made collapsible or 'knock down'. In my small workshop I wouldn't want this to take up space full time and no external space to keep it. saying that I think i'd use it quite a bit and might warrant permanent installation. hmmm


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## engineer one (2 Oct 2006)

that is kind of why i suggested that it might form the front of a panel store

you need to store the wooden panels properly, so kind of kill 
two loads of wood with one item :lol: 

paul :wink:


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## Ian Dalziel (2 Oct 2006)

Wizer...mine is a permant fixture outside attached to the fence.....Steve Maskerys might be more suitable for you...i just dont have any pics of it.

I


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## JFC (2 Oct 2006)

I still keep thinking along the lines of the clamp and guide because all the workings are there . There is a saw base plate that attaches to the clamp and guide and slides the saw back and forth . You wouldn't need a vertical cut as you could do it all on the horizontal cut .
If the C&G was mounted on a tracks either end of a frame , you could slide it up and down and when you had your position you could press the lever on the C&G to lock it in place and make your cut .
The tracks Scrit posted above with the nylon bearings would be ideal for the runners and as said you could counter weight it with sash weights .
The only problem i can see is the unit would need a small angle on it to keep the clamp and guide flush against the board .
This is the clamp and guide im talking about . 
http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/trend/show/bigimages/cgspro.jpg


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## engineer one (2 Oct 2006)

couple of thoughts jason,

the system that colin c has the zone thing seems to have a
similar mount.

but my other thought is are you sure this is going to be cost
effective. surely your friendly wood yard, (who i know!) 
only charge between 75p and a quid a cut. so you are going to 
have to have cut at least 300 sheets before you start making/
saving any money :twisted: 

in particular, this is true if you are doing what scrit says and
cutting roughly.

paul :wink:


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## JFC (2 Oct 2006)

I will still get my timber cut to size but its the bits you don't bargin on or don't know the size until its built im thinking of . As i already have the clamp and guide , the saw and the timber to make such a thing the only costs are going to be the runners .
Ive also been thinking today of a way to hold the C&G with timber rather than buying runners . If i manage this then the overall cost of the wall saw to anyone else that wants one will be a C&G and the saw base , around £170 .


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## engineer one (2 Oct 2006)

yes ok you may well be right.

so thoughts. why not fix the saw, and move the wood.
sort of. i am thinking of rip rather than cross cut.
most of us don't have the room to tip the wood on
its long end. but i wonder about having a moveable wooden
support that fits on dowels. the sheet fits on top, and then
you can cut more easily. obviously you need to be able to 
make adjustments for the odd measurements, but that seems 
easier. :lol: 

a 2x2 frame would support the rail and saw at 2440 length.
and would maybe come from the floor up. and needs only to be 
say 1800 high. the saw itself could be moved up about 300 from
1000 to 1300, in small increments. and would move along 
the rail horizontally.

the wood would be supported on a frame which stocks the rest
of your sheet goods.

might get you started. :twisted: 

paul :wink:


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## JFC (2 Oct 2006)

Im thinking about moving the saw to save space , your going to need over double the length of a sheet to push it past the saw but your right on roof height , im lucky enough to have the room to stand a sheet on end .


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## engineer one (2 Oct 2006)

no mate sorry what i meant was the saw has to be moved manually
up and down a bit to get the correct width, then the saw would 
run along your guide rail.
does that make more sense  

paul :wink:


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## JFC (2 Oct 2006)

I think your thinking along the same lines as me . 
The guide rail is set into two timbers at either end somehow , then moved up and down to where its needed . Then the saw runs along the guide rail to make the cut . 
The problem im trying to get around is how to keep the guide rail square as it moves up and down . I can attach additional peices to the guide rail without fouling the saw so i could add runners at either end extending out to the tracks that Scrit posted . 
Now ive just thought of another problem :roll: For different thickness of boards you will need to set the whole thing up again as the C&G needs to clamp onto the board its cutting .......Hmmmmm Easy to get around with shimming between the runners fixing blocks and the saw bed .


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## Barry Burgess (2 Oct 2006)

Jason I sent you some pictures by e mail. Let me know if this is what you want - will send the rest if required
Barry


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## engineer one (3 Oct 2006)

jason, you're missing my point. we want to limit vertical movement of
the saw and guide by as much as possible, and move the wood up
and down on slats. the slats would work at 150, intervals.

if you then had the guides supported in hangers, you could move them
equally at each end with a kind of cam and dowels.

you don't need to worry about the saw and guide touching the wood really
as long as the wood can't move,and the saw can plunge it would work.

think this might be the way to go :roll: 

paul


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## JFC (3 Oct 2006)

Now i get you paul , so mounting the guide on heavy duty bearing guided fully extending draw runners (which i happen to have) could be the way to go .
Barry i didnt get your mail mate .


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## Barry Burgess (3 Oct 2006)

JFC":gs60nqvp said:


> Barry i didnt get your mail mate .


Your email address has changed???


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## JFC (3 Oct 2006)

No , Email is the same .
Paul , if using the clamp and guide the guide would need to touch the wood as it holds the locking mechanism .


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## engineer one (3 Oct 2006)

how about another guide system that doesnot then??

paul :wink:


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## JFC (3 Oct 2006)

Paul , the reason i was looking at the clamp and guide is because all the workings are there for us . The saw locks onto the guide and the guide locks onto the workpiece . There is no need to start making tracks and runners for the saw as it can be bought as one comleate unit for under £200 and is ready to go .
I thought it was a good route to take but maybe im being a bit blue peter about the design ?


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## engineer one (3 Oct 2006)

well so far no sticky back plastic :lol: :lol: 

will now retire whilst saner voices prevail, 
and i can think of another solution. :roll: 

paul :wink:


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## Jake (3 Oct 2006)

There's a oldish Holz-Her on ebay, currently at £250ish at the moment.


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## JFC (3 Oct 2006)

Shall we buy it and take it apart :lol: :lol:


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## wizer (3 Oct 2006)

i cant find it on ebay?


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## Jake (3 Oct 2006)

Can't access ebay here - I saw it last night. Maybe it's another make, or mispelled or something? Try "panel saw".


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## wrightclan (3 Oct 2006)

Jake":2e9dnsjm said:


> Can't access ebay here - I saw it last night. Maybe it's another make, or mispelled or something? Try "panel saw".



I think it's gone. I found it the other night using "panel saw." Just tried it now, and no sign of it. I vaguely remember the ad saying something about being advertised elsewhere and reserving right to remove at any time.

Brad


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## Scrit (3 Oct 2006)

In case you're tempted, a few of points about industrial wall saws: they tend to be big, and not just wide, but tall as well, so if you don't have an 9ft high building to stick it in then look elsewhere - they are heavy, typically 3/4 tonnes and upwards - they require good dust extraction - they aren't easily dismantled for transport, so you'll need someone with a Hiab wagon to collect and deliver for you (preferably in as few pieces as possible) - and they all go out of whack when they're moved as their very structure makes the rather "bendy". I've been offered a couple in the past and been tempted, but the cost of transporting one (they take up a whole lorry, so no part loads) then getting them set-up actually exceeded the offer price! So a £250 wall saw might easily cost 3 to 4 times that to get it shifted and installed - still a bargain, but not as tempting as the initial offer price

Scrit


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## les chicken (3 Oct 2006)

I think it would be a great idea to have the wall saw.

BUT

Firstly you have to have the transprort to get an 8x4 sheet to your workshop.

Then you have to hump it around to get it to the saw.

Although it would be handy, I tend to sort out what I require out of an 8x4 sheet and then pop of to the B&Q in cardiff gate. Select the size ply and get them to cut it with their wall saw. Check the sizes are correct and then I am usually able to put it in the car.

First four cuts are free and 50p per additional cut.

Maybe not the answer that you are looking for but there are one hell of a lot of trips before I am out of pocket compared to building one, plus there are smaller bits to carry.

Les


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## JFC (3 Oct 2006)

I think what im looking at building is a wall saw for a workshop that cant cope with a table saw with a sliding bed . Seems everyone is looking at shop notes 88 as the only way to do it .
Thanks Ed for dropping off the shop notes  
I get all my boards cut for free but i could still do with a big table saw i just don't have the room with all the other machines .
I also think that all the mechanisms are already out there and working for us to use on a wall saw with a little modification for very little cost .


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## 9fingers (3 Oct 2006)

Ebay saw was item 220031397451.

It finished early as someone else suspected.

Bob


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## houtslager (3 Oct 2006)

as an ex- owner of TWO wall saws let me put a few things forward.
As Scrit mentioned if wrongly transported the go out of alignment  

Re setting is time consuming and material consuming DAMHIKT

They NEED a TALL CEILING

secondary DE helps as the mounted units are for filling the "filter " sack.

On the plus side, they are space savers, a WS with a standard TS will do all ones sheet and solid work. I love em wish I could buy a STRIEBERG these are the Roll Royce of WS's.
I have a design for making them  sorry in my sketch book and not on PC can scan and send it to anyone interested.Made from plywood and a few nuts and bolts and some wire string. :wink: 

and a few other bits and bobs, costed it out approx € 400.00 in all


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## JFC (4 Oct 2006)

Why not scan it and put it on here ?


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## Ed (5 Oct 2006)

Jason, 

Thinking about your idea for using your current saw guide how about this: 

Up the sides and across the top and bottom of your wall frame you have equally spaced notches, lets say 50 cm spacing (rather like a castle wall). 

The frame that holds you saw guide has lugs that fit into the notches. 

You can then place your guide frame that the saw runs in accurately at 10cm increments. (Either vertically or horizontally) 

The base of the saw should be flush with the bottom of the lugs on the guide frame, but the notches should be deep enough that the bottom of the lugs do not touch the bottom of the notch before the saw is on the surface of the sheet to be cut. 

Not so easy to describe as to draw on the back of an envelope! 

Cheers 

Ed


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## engineer one (6 Oct 2006)

just picked up latest copy of fine homebuilding,november 2006.
interesting comparison of a number of track systems, including
festo, ez, etc. noticed that veritas/lee valley do one of a pair, 
which can go up to 104 inches long. you make your own saw base, 
so you could make one for each different thickness of wood you 
wanted to cut. seems to be 118 dollars, so could be useful to look
at.

also another idea about putting up crown moulding(coving),
and cutting same.

paul :wink:


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## Colin C (8 Oct 2006)

JFC

I was at W6 today and saw a portable wall saw that was going for £850 all in at the show and they are in Reading  

I took a pic for you to see 






I have a laeflet on it for you if you want it and a link to they web site Here but I think it is new so not much there yet :roll: 
I will get the leaflet in the post for you :wink:


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