# Clear Lacquer



## Charlie Woody (11 Nov 2013)

I have been asked to make 7 large mirrors (5 Iroko & 2 Oak) and the customer has specified a "Clear Lacquer" finish. He mentioned something about lacquer being better for use in a hot sunny environment. The mirrors are going to a house he is building in Spain.

As I have absolutely no experience of lacquer (normally use hard wax oil as it is easy to apply - brush on wipe off excess - and more forgiving for my poor painting skills) I need all the advice I can get on this please :?


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## Drudgeon (15 Nov 2013)

Hi Charlie,

I am by no means an aficionado on clear lacers, but have recently had experience with 2 types, the first i bought in to try some samples with was Rustins plastic coating, this is 2 part and burnishes up to pretty much any finish you want, it dries very very quickly, I am yet to use it on a finished piece, I only bought some to try out and was very impressed.

The second is Morrells Water based laquer, available in any sheen, I have been spraying this product and the finish is stunning, I believe you can brush or roll it on also, although I have only been spraying, but again a very big thumbs up.

Hope that helps
Dan


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## Mar_mite (19 Nov 2013)

What about clear lacquer from a halfords rattle can? I think you'll have to seal the wood with something first. I had a play around on a scrap of walnut recently, I used some cheap floor varnish to seal it then three coats of spray lacquer, rubbing down with 00 wire wool between coats. It looked amazing. Not sure if it will last on top of the water based varnish though.


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## twothumbs (19 Nov 2013)

Furthe to Mar-mites suggestion I would add....Spray lacquer would do it, but buy locally from a car refinishing spray supplies shop. It will be cheaper and proBably help from the staff. Several coats and then a rub down with fine wire wool and wax should do it. Not too long between coats but do make sure the tin is warmed before-hand in this cold weather. Sit in warm water awhile. .Best wishes.


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## Charlie Woody (19 Nov 2013)

Thanks for all your helpful replies guys. The potential customer has come back to me stating he wants me to use http://www.bona.com/en-GB/United-Kingdo ... naTraffic/ in Silk Matt.

Not a cheap product almost £90 for the 4.5 L and hardener!!!


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## yetloh (22 Nov 2013)

It's a floor finish and Bona products are probably the best out there, but it is hard to believe that that level of wear resistance is required for mirror frames. The Bona finishes are water borne and, like all such finishes will look much warmer and more natural if the wood is first given a couple of coats of blonde shellac.

Jim


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## Alexam (14 Dec 2013)

Would Bona Traffic be a suitable finish for a workshop working surface/bench?
Alex


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## Hudson Carpentry (15 Dec 2013)

Dont bother to finish a workshop bench top. You will only damage the finish when working and it may make the surface slippy.


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## Alexam (16 Dec 2013)

Hudson Carpentry":dp9hqmlj said:


> Dont bother to finish a workshop bench top. You will only damage the finish when working and it may make the surface slippy.



Just a sealant or oil then? It is hardwood ply top and will have hardwood edge.


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## yetloh (17 Dec 2013)

It will get damaged but I still think it is worth putting some sort of finish on a bench simply because it will keep the dirt from getting ingrained and it makes it a whole lot easier to remove glue drips. I have done mine with Danish oil which works fine. I had never thought of using floor finish, but I think I would avoid it because it tends to dry in distinct layers which might be obvios as it gets damaged. Oil is easily renewed.

Jim


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