# AW10BSB2. Axminster table saw after market fence



## Random Orbital Bob (18 Feb 2013)

Does anyone know if there is an after market fence that fits out the box for this saw? I'm not unhappy with the original fence so its not a biggy but I would be curious to see if there's a super fandango one available. 

Many thanks in advance


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## Bluekingfisher (18 Feb 2013)

Unlike the Americans, we don't seem to have a thriving market for aftermarket TS fences or TS accessories, which I think is a great shame as the ones fitted as standard on most "economy " saw are, in my opinion junk.

One of the Incra range may be your best option here in the UK? you could of course investigate having one shipped from the states. Many suppliers now ship here with the all inclusive P&P and import duty paid as part of the price. With the USD & £ exchange you may get something worthy and useable.

Good luck


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## thomvic (18 Feb 2013)

Don't know about fitting out of the box but I can recommend the Kreg fences

Richard


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## Random Orbital Bob (18 Feb 2013)

I agree that our rip fences are generally rather naff. Seems odd to me because I'd easily pay £100 more for a saw with a decent fence. So it would set a machine apart from its competition

I'll look at Incra and Kreg. Thanks chaps


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## custard (19 Feb 2013)

Another vote for better fences, I recently got a Hammer N4400 bandsaw and the fence doesn't even have measuring scale!


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## DeanN (19 Feb 2013)

I've not had a problem with the fence on my AW10BSB2 - accurate and solid. I can't get on with the sliding carriage though, so it came off yesterday and I moved the table extension to the left of the blade giving a decent table width on either side of the blade.


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## monkeybiter (19 Feb 2013)

+1 for the original fence [on an AW12BSB2], I love the sliding table too, does need careful setting up though.


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## Random Orbital Bob (19 Feb 2013)

What I find is that my rip fence has a small tad of play left to right as you look down the table. This means when I set it I have to just push forward the right hand side of the locking carriage by my leg. This shims the rip fence about 1/4" to the left which brings it dead straight to the blade and all is good

If I don't do that it cuts a taper. Basically it needs a shim inside the locking carriage....but I can't be pineappled

Has anyone found a decent solution to the useless fish eye Perspex scale marker on the fence scale? I just have a half moon of carefully calibrated oak. That Perspex made me want to kill people when I first fettled the saw! It is a dam good machine though, very solid and fabulous versatility. From whole 8x4 sheets etc


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## Steve Maskery (19 Feb 2013)

I'm not supposed to advertise directly, but as this is a direct answer to a direct question, I hope I shall be forgiven. I have plans for an absolutely superb shop-made fence which costs very little to make. The most expensive part is the toggle clamp which acts as the fixing point.
It is always dead square and does not move at all in use. Rock solid. It's made form standard steel sections like box and angle iron, and the only metalworking tools you need are drills and taps and a hacksaw.
It's as good as any aftermarket fence you can buy. WE10 if you are interested. 
Steve


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## jack55 (19 Feb 2013)

I also find I have play on the fence and had to put some gaffer tape under it to get it to lock square (think I need to revisit my Maskery DVDs) The crown guard could do with some improvement as well and apart from a few niggles I like the machine and the sliding table does get used a lot.


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## Steve Maskery (19 Feb 2013)

Jack
You need WE8 for a super-duper crown guard. But you know that already 
S


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## monkeybiter (20 Feb 2013)

I'm used to dealing with backlash on metalworking machinery and as a result I always make the final position of the fence with the fine adjuster and always from the same direction. This gives me consistent parallel positioning of the fence. HTH


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