# What exactly is danish oil??



## Ross (7 Jan 2008)

While searching for cheap danish oil, I found this by Toby Newell on the Period Property website forum under the title: The Definitive Guide to Wood Finishing

"Teak oil/Danish oil: practically the same products. Combination of linseed oil (which is cheaper and less durable) and tung oil (which is more expensive and more durable) solvents, alkyd and urethane plasticisers and drying chemicals, basically just a polyurethane varnish with up to 20 percent more oil, better quality oils have more tung oil and less linseed. Easier to apply due to solvents and dryers but, not as strong as tung oil or polyurethane. I am therefore constantly perplexed at the fervent adoration they receive, perhaps they sound traditional?"

I don't use linseed oil or tung oil because of their very long drying times and first started using danish oil because I thought it was a similar product, but miraculously quicker drying. Although not a fervent adorer of danish oil, I have been guilty of thinking it sounds traditional. I know that manufacturers use different recipes/formulae (and seem to be secretive about them). I know that my local Glasgow manufacturer Smith & Rodgers does not use linseed oil in their product, because their chemist told me. Indeed, from what he said it sound more like rocket fuel. Certainly, S&R's danish oil does not look like others, Rustins, for instance. S&R's oil is very cloudy. The chemist told me that theirs has a higher wax content than most and this is the cloudy bit, which will settle to the bottom of the container quite quickly. The end result using S&R danish oil is a very matt finish, by the way. Buffing and rubbing will give a result very much like a wax finish.

Now, I understand almost no chemistry and have no wish to do so, so please go gently.

I understand that dryers help the oil to dry and that solvents are the liquids that dissolve the solids which, when dry, will be the solid protective coating. This appears self-explanatory and is as deep as I wish my scientific grasp of the matter.

In any case, it is not what I want to know. I want tradition. I want natural and environmentally friendly oils. I want to know whether the resins are plant resins or synthetic (and if synthetic are they petrochemical products). I don't like the sound of alkyds, whatever they are. I want to know if the solvents are white spirits or turpentine. I want to know if the wax is paraffin or beeswax. Is danish oil really little different from polyurethane varnish? Can I easily mix my own hippy version of danish oil? 

Toby also says: "Mylands wax is based on Gedges recipe dating from the late nineteenth century." I like the sound of that. Does it follow that Mylands' danish oil is similarly old fashioned?

Any recommendations for a healthier, happier danish oil?

Ross


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## CHJ (7 Jan 2008)

Welcome to the forum Ross,

Sorry I don't know the answers you are looking for but I would not place too much faith in "Old Recipes" automatically being any safer to use than the modern ones.

For instance a search for Wood Turpentine Hazards will turn up something along these lines.


> (Wiki) Turpentine is an organic solvent, and thus poses many of the same hazards as do other such substances. Its vapor can burn the skin and eyes, damage the lungs and respiratory system, as well as the central nervous system when inhaled, and cause renal failure when ingested, among other things. It is highly flammable.


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## MIGNAL (7 Jan 2008)

Virtually all modern oil varnishes contain some type of synthetic resin and a metallic drier. There are a few specialist varnishes that are still made from natural plant or fossilised resins and are usually made with a very high grade of Linseed oil. Tried and Tru make such a varnish but I believe it is only available in the US. Kremer Pigmente stock a Copal oil varnish that contains no driers. Obviously these types of Varnish take longer to cure but if you can subject your finished items to decent doses of UV (not so easy in the UK) it really does speed up drying time.
I'm afraid the term 'Danish oil' doesn't tell us all that much other than it being made from some type of polymerised Linseed or Tung oil or a combination of the two. Some manufacturers add a small amount of a synthetic resin and/or other solvents and driers. The addition of resins to these finishes does blur the distinction between an 'oil varnish' and an 'oil finish'.
I suspect strongly that the gun stock finish 'Tru-oil' contains driers because of the speed at which it cures. If you read the Manufacturers Safety Data Sheets you can usually work out what the contents are.
Even the 'natural' Pure gum spirits of Turpentine (from Larch or Fir) has warning labels. I ain't bothered, I love the smell!

http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/


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## Philly (7 Jan 2008)

Ross
As you have found out, there is a lot of products calling themselves "danish oil" and they seem to contain a wide range of ingredients.
They are all basically "Oil/Varnish" blends. You can easily make your own - Sam Maloof made his own blend of 1/3 oil, 1/3 varnish, 1/3 thinners. By varying the amount of oil to varnish you can change the characteristics to suit.
Hope this helps,
Philly


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## BedfordSaw (7 Jan 2008)

Hi Ross,

Danish oil is just 'Tung Oil' but with a few more ingredients to help it dry quicker etc..

If you have any questions about the ingredients or usage just give _Rustins_ a call, we have been selling there products for as long as I can remember.

They have been making wood finishes for over 80 years and will be happy to answer any questions you have.

Hope this helps..


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## Anonymous (9 Jan 2008)

Hi team 

Have a look at http://www.fiddes.co.uk/content/oils.html


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