# Major oak cladding disaster - need to remove lost head nails



## Triggaaar (25 Sep 2009)

I've just had my guest house clad with green oak, and the oak has started splitting. The problem is that the nails have gone through the bottom of each board and then through the top of the board underneath.

I understand that I have to remove the lot, and do it fast, before it all cracks.

Can anyone give me tips on how to take the cladding off/remove lost head nails, with minimal damage to the oak. Are there any specialist tools that I could pick up from a hardware store that would make it easier?

Thanks


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## EddieJ (25 Sep 2009)

This is the tool that I use. http://www.smithfrancistools.co.uk/nailpull.htm

Google, priory nail puller.







BTW.. In my opinion oak cladding is just a waste of time expense and effort. The chances are that you will always have problem with it. If any of my clients insist on it being used, I get them to first sign a disclaimer exonerating me from any liability of it moving, cupping or splitting. I hate the stuff!


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## Balbus (25 Sep 2009)

I have no experience of oak cladding but I have had and used a very similar nail puller for the best part of 25 years . . . it will do a good job of removing the nails (and of delivering the odd blood blister) , but only by chewing a hole in whatever they are in. I think you'll need to lever the cladding off to expose the "lost" head first.

Isn't that why god gave us stainless screws?


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## Triggaaar (25 Sep 2009)

EddieJ":clv5ywf0 said:


> This is the tool that I use.


Looks like the kind of thing I'm after, thanks. I'll be taking the oak off in the morning, so I can't wait for a delivery, but I'll call the local stores to see if anyone has one (unless you know of a good store in Brighton?).



> BTW.. In my opinion oak cladding is just a waste of time expense and effort.


My parents have it on their large garage, and after a few years, with no treatment, I think it looks great. What do you tend to recommend though (I wanted to avoid haivng to maintain softwood)?

Thanks


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## superunknown (26 Sep 2009)

Would there be an option of punching the nails right through the oak? Whats the thickness?

I have one of those nail pullers too, excellent tool.


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## jasonB (26 Sep 2009)

If you have only used lostheads you should just be able to lever the boards off and then knock the nails out from the underneath. The nail pullers linked to above will damage the surface quite a bit.

Is it feather edge or square edge boarding? You will always get some splits with green oak, the sunny weather of the last few days won't have helped.

Are you using stainless or plated nails, basic lostheads will leave big black stains around the fixings. Also something with a bigger head may hold bettter like a traditional rose nail.

Jason


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## The Bear (26 Sep 2009)

Sounds like part of your problem is the way it was nailed.
It should be nailed at the bottom of the board only. BUT high enough up so it doesn't go through the top of the board underneith. The top of the board underneith will be held by the board above clamping down on it. This holds each board firmly in place top and bottom but allows the boards to expand/contract unhindered and therefore they won't split.
Check how your parents is fixed, I would suggest this is why their's has not split if it is fixed correctly.

Mark


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## Triggaaar (26 Sep 2009)

Thanks for the replies chaps. All cladding safely off and stored.


Balbus":1jyt5v3m said:


> Isn't that why god gave us stainless screws?


Nah, they'd look awful.



jasonB":1jyt5v3m said:


> Is it feather edge or square edge boarding? You will always get some splits with green oak, the sunny weather of the last few days won't have helped.


Yes it's feather edged. My parents boards (from the same supplier) have very few cracks.


> Are you using stainless or plated nails, basic lostheads will leave big black stains around the fixings.


They're galvanised lost heads. I've got black marks where the drill has touched the oak, but I understand the black fades with time.



The Bear":1jyt5v3m said:


> Sounds like part of your problem is the way it was nailed.


No kidding! 



> It should be nailed at the bottom of the board only. BUT high enough up so it doesn't go through the top of the board underneith.


Yes, if only I'd have known that before it went up.

The tops (either barge board or facia) were a bit of a pain, but once they were off the rest came off by prizing off from behind. I've lost a few tiny boards, and have the odd crack in a couple of big boards, but nothing too bad yet. May just need 1 or 2 replacement boards, nothing more (unless some hairline cracks turn bad now it's off). Took 9 hours, with help for the first 5 hours, but it least it looks like it's going to be ok. It'll be fast putting back up, since everything is cut to length etc.

Some of the lost heads pulled through the oak, but most stayed with the planks. When re-cladding, I intend to use the same nail holes, but where the nail goes through the board underneath, cut a little 'v' to prevent the original problem. Where the nails pulled through the oak, what do you guys advise I do when re-nailing - put the nail through at a different angle, use a round head, or will the lost heads still grip enough, even though they've been pulled through once?

Thanks


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## Benchwayze (27 Sep 2009)

Triggaaar":1ig819fs said:


> My parents have it on their large garage, and after a few years, with no treatment, I think it looks great. What do you tend to recommend though (I wanted to avoid having to maintain softwood)?
> 
> Thanks



If you want a softwood that is easier to use, more stable, and just needs linseed oil maybe every three years, then go for Western Red Cedar. It won't be any more expensive than oak and it's more durable. 

If you have a direct south-facing side, then if possible, erect a sun-screen in front of it. Otherwise, whatever you use will shrink and cup like blazes. 

Bester Luck
John


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## milkman (27 Sep 2009)

When re-attaching wouldn't you be better nailing where it won't go through the board beneath rather than spending all that time cutting out v from the tops of the boards?

Eddie J, is oak cladding really that bad? Obviously its been used extensively historically; or was it also replaced a lot historically and sworn at historically too! : )

Be interested to hear more about this


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## Triggaaar (27 Sep 2009)

Benchwayze":10qsx28u said:


> If you want a softwood that is easier to use, more stable, and just needs linseed oil maybe every three years, then go for Western Red Cedar. It won't be any more expensive than oak and it's more durable.


Interesting, thanks. The main reason for choosing oak was to avoid having to oil or paint every few years, but if oak is as unsuccessful as you say, maybe I'll have to switch to Cedar in the future (for now I already have the oak, and it's already been cut to size). Would you use green or dried Cedar?



> If you have a direct south-facing side, then if possible, erect a sun-screen in front of it. Otherwise, whatever you use will shrink and cup like blazes.


It's west facing. I'm going to my parent's today, so I'll have a look at where their garage gets a lot of sun and see if it's suffered.



milkman":10qsx28u said:


> When re-attaching wouldn't you be better nailing where it won't go through the board beneath rather than spending all that time cutting out v from the tops of the boards?


I'm wanting to avoid making an extra nail hole, because I don't think it'll look good with a hole under every nail. I don't think it'll take me that long to cut out the Vs, they'll be between 1 and 2 cm deep.



> Eddie J, is oak cladding really that bad?...
> 
> Be interested to hear more about this


Likewise


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## Benchwayze (28 Sep 2009)

Trig, 

I suppose you can buy green cedar, but probably only in the States. All the stuff I use comes from George Sykes in Atherstone, Warks, and it is kiln dried. Cedar-wood ship-lap looks the business, but it isn't cheap! 

HTH
John


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