# My first workshed and my new workshop basework



## Oldman

Im typing this in wordpad, this is my first post to the forums and having 
just spent a couple of hrs typing and adding pics to a "my first workshed"
build thread I clicked submit only to get the "sign in" page, somehow I had
been logged out, (is there a timer?) while I was producing my mamoth first posting. 
I tried the browser back button but of course it had vanished.
So here goes again, this will be a shortened version and no danger of it
getting lost but the formatting may be strange when I copy it across.

I found myself in desperate need of a new workshed some 3yrs ago, you
go through life collecting "stuff" dont you, until you either have a big 
clearout (regretted later usually) or make more room for yourself.

Id never built a workshop/shed before, so went for a sheet size one to 
make life easier. 8x16ft was my choice.
I cleared an area, layed a membrain to trap the weeds, used ex council
paving slabs and concrete building blocks to form level piers for my timber frame base.







I had quite a lot of 2nd hand ash timber left from a cooling tower I
dismantled at a local factory, it had been in water for many years and
stored by me ("stuff") for a year or more and was very sound so that and
some treated 3x3" went into the base frame.
18mm ply in 8x4ft sheets went down on top using the sheets to get the 
base nice and square too. Lots of screws to make it all very strong.






The framework was suck it and see, pent roofed from 3x2" built onto the
floor ply.






My plans got hijacked by the family at this point, I got outvoted on the 
need for a kids playroom so lost 1/3 of my room to them before it was 
even built!
This meant an extra door and more windows.










Now for the back and side sheets, I went for shuttering ply thinking I get 
1 good side but what arrived as bad both sides meaning I had lots of knot
filling to do when using it. Sheet size again made it easier for me to keep 
square and less cutting.






On with the roof, I used 12mm osb, still hard graft getting the full sheets 
up there on my own. Now I realise I have messed up the window framing
timbers and had to do a rework on the front.  






I set to making the doors from t&g on 1"x6" bracing, here they are on 
the floor resting waiting for the glue to set before finishing to size.






ok so the doors are on the felting is done and the windows in, perspex in 
the kids end.






I did treat the shiplap front with a clear wood preservative that the
manufacturer said wouldnt need any further treatment as I liked the
finished colour, but after 6 months it became clear from the very 
darkened colour of the timber that I would now need to treat with
something else, it got a very light creasote substitute in the end.

The back of the workshop before the facia board and guttering was 
added.






3yrs on and its packed solid but still looking good and waterproof.
I did pack bricks loose under the sides and back gap to the soil from the
timbers and fitted galv weldmesh along the front to stop little furry 
animals making homes under it but still allow air to keep the damp away.
Total cost was around £750. More than I expected but it will outlast me!

SO I still need a new workshop.

Got to be much bigger this time, I have earmarked a bit of space at the top of the garden and moved a greenhouse to make it bigger. I did intend to build my own again but...while looking around at garden buildings for inspiration I found one local company offering winter purchases at very good discounts. I was looking at maybe around £1600 for materials for my new 20x12ft workshop and this company was offering a £1950 build for £1450 delivered and fitted to my prepared basework.
I couldnt resist (sorry purists) I promise to make changes to it so some of its my work.

Here is the cleared area for my basework.














Concrete is a non starter for my base as its too far from the road and the costs would be too great.

We built a frame 12x10ft of 4x2" treated squared it up and layed it out where the base was to go. There are lots of level changes on this area of ground so the workshop is going to be a step or so up from the lawn level.






Blocked up the frame on bricks to get levels and dug out postholes for the 4x4" treated posts that the frame is fixed to using plated bolts.
















After a final levels check postcrete is added to the postholes, then the rest of the bearers are fitted to this frame. The new workshop has its own t&g floor mounted on bearers running lengthways btw.
A second identical frame is made and leveled plus screwed to the first frame.






More postholes and bolts and yet more postcrete and leveling.






Lots of 4x2" treated and all painted where cut and its almost done.










As with my first workshop there is a gap between ground and basework. This time I intend to use alloy 5 bar treadplate vertically around the back and sides of the frame sunk into the ground a couple of inches and screwed to the framework to stop little furries from making homes under.
I have a very large amount of this alloy sheeting tucked away so its at no cost and should stop surface water from running directly under the basework and puddling around my posts. The workshop will have gutters fitted to a butt, but as the garden slopes I need to be careful I think of water pooling under my basework. 
The total cost for this base work was around £400 
There are 18 posts supporting the frame, 18off 10mm x 8" plated bolts, we used 20 bags of postcrete, 5off 4x4" 3mtr posts, 25off 4x2x3.6mtr frame timbers and around 160 4"x12 plated screws.


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## DaveL

Hi oldman,

Welcome to the forum 

your pictures have been cought by our spam trap, this will stop when you have a few more posts to your name.



Oldman":whr2exov said:


> Im typing this in wordpad, this is my first post to the forums and having
> just spent a couple of hrs typing and adding pics to a "my first workshed"
> build thread I clicked submit only to get the "sign in" page, somehow I had
> been logged out, (is there a timer?) while I was producing my mamoth first posting.
> I tried the browser back button but of course it had vanished.
> So here goes again, this will be a shortened version and no danger of it
> getting lost but the formatting may be strange when I copy it across.
> 
> I found myself in desperate need of a new workshed some 3yrs ago, you
> go through life collecting "stuff" dont you, until you either have a big
> clearout (regretted later usually) or make more room for yourself.
> 
> Id never built a workshop/shed before, so went for a sheet size one to
> make life easier. 8x16ft was my choice.
> I cleared an area, layed a membrain to trap the weeds, used ex council
> paving slabs and concrete building blocks to form level piers for my timber frame base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had quite a lot of 2nd hand ash timber left from a cooling tower I
> dismantled at a local factory, it had been in water for many years and
> stored by me ("stuff") for a year or more and was very sound so that and
> some treated 3x3" went into the base frame.
> 18mm ply in 8x4ft sheets went down on top using the sheets to get the
> base nice and square too. Lots of screws to make it all very strong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The framework was suck it and see, pent roofed from 3x2" built onto the
> floor ply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My plans got hijacked by the family at this point, I got outvoted on the
> need for a kids playroom so lost 1/3 of my room to them before it was
> even built!
> This meant an extra door and more windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the back and side sheets, I went for shuttering ply thinking I get
> 1 good side but what arrived as bad both sides meaning I had lots of knot
> filling to do when using it. Sheet size again made it easier for me to keep
> square and less cutting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On with the roof, I used 12mm osb, still hard graft getting the full sheets
> up there on my own. Now I realise I have messed up the window framing
> timbers and had to do a rework on the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set to making the doors from t&g on 1"x6" bracing, here they are on
> the floor resting waiting for the glue to set before finishing to size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ok so the doors are on the felting is done and the windows in, perspex in
> the kids end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did treat the shiplap front with a clear wood preservative that the
> manufacturer said wouldnt need any further treatment as I liked the
> finished colour, but after 6 months it became clear from the very
> darkened colour of the timber that I would now need to treat with
> something else, it got a very light creasote substitute in the end.
> 
> The back of the workshop before the facia board and guttering was
> added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3yrs on and its packed solid but still looking good and waterproof.
> I did pack bricks loose under the sides and back gap to the soil from the
> timbers and fitted galv weldmesh along the front to stop little furry
> animals making homes under it but still allow air to keep the damp away.
> Total cost was around £750. More than I expected but it will outlast me!
> 
> SO I still need a new workshop.
> 
> Got to be much bigger this time, I have earmarked a bit of space at the top of the garden and moved a greenhouse to make it bigger. I did intend to build my own again but...while looking around at garden buildings for inspiration I found one local company offering winter purchases at very good discounts. I was looking at maybe around £1600 for materials for my new 20x12ft workshop and this company was offering a £1950 build for £1450 delivered and fitted to my prepared basework.
> I couldnt resist (sorry purists) I promise to make changes to it so some of its my work.
> 
> Here is the cleared area for my basework.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Concrete is a non starter for my base as its too far from the road and the costs would be too great.
> 
> We built a frame 12x10ft of 4x2" treated squared it up and layed it out where the base was to go. There are lots of level changes on this area of ground so the workshop is going to be a step or so up from the lawn level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blocked up the frame on bricks to get levels and dug out postholes for the 4x4" treated posts that the frame is fixed to using plated bolts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a final levels check postcrete is added to the postholes, then the rest of the bearers are fitted to this frame. The new workshop has its own t&g floor mounted on bearers running lengthways btw.
> A second identical frame is made and leveled plus screwed to the first frame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More postholes and bolts and yet more postcrete and leveling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of 4x2" treated and all painted where cut and its almost done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As with my first workshop there is a gap between ground and basework. This time I intend to use alloy 5 bar treadplate vertically around the back and sides of the frame sunk into the ground a couple of inches and screwed to the framework to stop little furries from making homes under.
> I have a very large amount of this alloy sheeting tucked away so its at no cost and should stop surface water from running directly under the basework and puddling around my posts. The workshop will have gutters fitted to a butt, but as the garden slopes I need to be careful I think of water pooling under my basework.
> The total cost for this base work was around £400
> There are 18 posts supporting the frame, 18off 10mm x 8" plated bolts, we used 20 bags of postcrete, 5off 4x4" 3mtr posts, 25off 4x2x3.6mtr frame timbers and around 160 4"x12 plated screws.


----------



## OLD

I think you are only just on for timber size and span. If you are having any heavy machinery and heavy local loadings extra support may be required.
My estimate based on 50x97 to span 2mtr at 400 spacing light loading.


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## PowerTool

Welcome to the forum,and great set of pictures  

Andrew


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## LarryS.

great thread, keep the pictures coming


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## wizer

Welcome Oldman. What part of Kent are you in?

Looks like you know what your doing there!


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## Oldman

OLD":bt839wkl said:


> I think you are only just on for timber size and span. If you are having any heavy machinery and heavy local loadings extra support may be required.
> My estimate based on 50x97 to span 2mtr at 400 spacing light loading.



Well at present the heaviest items I can think of will be my Myford ML7 lathe, a plasma cutter and mig welder. All are fairly light bits of kit. I am hoping this workshop will remain fairly clear of junk unlike the others, so I have somewhere to swing the cat about.
I have some 4.5mm sheets of alloy treadplate that I could place on the floor if I ever get anything deemed "heavy with small footprint" to spread the load.

The workshop itself comes with 38x75mm floor joists running lengthways with 19mm t&g flooring on those.

But I guess your more concerned that my basework doesn't have enough supports to ground level. There are 14 points around the outside edge that have 4x4" post mounts and another 4 points through the middle.

Do you think this is not enough? I have just over a week before the workshop is due to be delivered so I have time to make adjustments if its deemed a necessity.

Wizer, i'm in Costa geriatric, better known as Herne Bay.


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## Shultzy

Great pics, but I would have put insulation under the floor to keep your feet warm  .


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## DeanN

That's a great price for a delivered and fitted building - even with the additional cost of the base you've built. 

Are you going to place a weed control membrane/shingle under the base? 

Did you consider using concrete pilings (plastic tubes sunk and filled with concrete) or pads, rather than timber posts - no worries over rotting timber then.

Great work, and look forward to the rest of the building taking shape.


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## Oldman

DeanN, yes I thought the price was too good to miss out on, I would have had the base cost of at least that whatever solution workshop I went for.

I wasnt going for a barrier under, hoping that the lack of sun would stop anything of merit growing there.

As for timber ground posts rotting, my take on it is that they only rot above the concrete level when puddles of water are allowed to form continually around them. I'm hoping that with the alloy plates around the basework and the workshop with guttering on top there shouldnt be any water puddling, plus the air movement under should keep things good.

Thanks everyone for the welcome to the forums.


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## yo_chuci

so how does it look full of toys.... or are you not there yet...


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## Oldman

yo_chuci":3bx98qm2 said:


> so how does it look full of toys.... or are you not there yet...



Its not being delivered/errected until late next week so your a bit previous :wink: 

Though just as a taster I took some pics of the display workshop while I was at the factory.






16mm roof boards planed and rebated






38x75mm framing, Tar paper lined.

I'm not having my door or windows in the config above but you get the idea.


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## MickCheese

Looks great.

Keep up the photo's.

I like the way you did the base.

My wife works from home and I have installed a few large sheds, she has a log cabin at present. They have always been on a concrete base. The last one was laid by a groundworks contractor and he made a real hash of it. 4m at the back and 5 at the front when it was supposed to be square and not flat. That's why I usually do the work myself. If I do another I will consider your method.

Well done.

Mick


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## wizer

Who did you buy the building from ?


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## Oldman

wizer":26p7dber said:


> Who did you buy the building from ?



Not sure I'm allowed to link directly here so Google for eaglesheds Kent.

I had dismissed buying ready made due to others using cheap material boards for floor and roof, this one got my vote because of the 19mm t&g floor and 16mm roof, no osb in sight :wink: 
Then of course there was the errected price....They are back to full price now.


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## wizer

Thanks. Links are fine here.


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## Oldman

I bought an Evolution Fury circular saw a little while ago and got to use it for the first time today.
I had to cut some alloy 5 bar treadplate into strips to place vertically around the outside of my base framework.

What a tool that is, the plate is 2mm plus raised treads and I found it hard to judge the correct speed to push the saw through as it seemed like there was no load at all. I cut 15 metres in no time at all. Pretty noisy though.


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## Oldman

All my alloy treadplate parts are now fitted to the base which will hopefully divert any runoff rainwater water from finding its way inder the base once the workshops built.





















Got someone coming in Tuesday to remove the few stumpy trees in this pic, that should give me a bit more space beside the workshop and save the roof felt getting damaged by branches.






Workshop arrives this Thursday, cant wait!


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## Oldman

Had the tree fella's in today to remove the few that may be in my way.

Look at the last post pic for "before" and here for "after"






Roll on Thursday now.


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## Oldman

Its new workshop arrival day and the guys are busy fitting it together.

First the floor in sections, they had to fit extra bearers to my base as the joints came mid way between my bearers.






Floor all down and fixed, now for the end panels.











And the door section to hold the end section in place.






Front and back sections fitted and some roof trusses in place to firm it all up.






Hmm, not much room down the back of it, I will need to retrim the hedge back some more yet.






The cat says yes its ok so far!






More later as it goes up, seems the flooring guy made it 1/2" too long so the end panel has been removed now for the floor to be trimmed back enough for the end panel to fit correctly.


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## zeb

aint ur nice shead going to make it a pain in the ass to cut the headge ???very nice shead thou 8)


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## Oldman

The hedge can get trimmed back some more :wink: 

Roof is going on...












Felting and glazing next.






All done.


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## PowerTool

Looks a nice,tidy job  

Now all you need to do is fill it up until you can't move to do anything,and it'll be like nearly everyone elses.. :wink: 

Andrew


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## Oldman

I have 3 other workshop/sheds and a 36ft garage that have all become "storerooms" well no room to work in them.

My next problem is that the wife took one look at it and hates it, ugly thing!
So its compromise time, she wants a "bit of room" in which to prepare barbeques in the summer and a decked area outside. I was always going to deck an area outside it as I need to get up to the level to be able to enter the shop without a pair of steps :wink: 

I also have some spare double glazed units so it looks like one of those may end up in the place of the 4 windows next to the door. Tempted to raise the roof by changing the angle some on the house side while I'm at it, doesnt look too hard to do, time to have a measure.

I can see this workshop becoming my labour for the summer at this rate.


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## MickCheese

It just needs some time to weather. It is just too new at the moment. Try painting it with a darker stain or a dark green to camouflage it a bit.

Looks great to me.

Mick


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## Oldman

Bad weather stopped play on the workshop for the moment. It will be getting a coat of something before the summer is out thats for sure.

I offered up a large double glazed unit to the side where the 2ft windows are and it looked ok so some cutting and framing to do there soon as the weather is nicer.

Its well over 100ft to the house from the workshop and I need to run a SWA cable from the house yet, plus wire the place out.

Managed to move a few boxes of "stuff" into it so I can see the lathe and welder in my old shop again, finally was able to weld up the grass box for the mower :roll: 

I have a "job list" that for some reason just keeps getting longer, real work keeps getting in the way!


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## Oldman

I could do with some recommendations please from those here in the know as to how to treat the outside of my workshop and the deck which is going down over the holiday weekend.
Water based or Spirit based treatment? 

I was looking at Cuprinol Timbercare or Ducksback but both of these say for rough sawn where my timber is all prepared.
Are you just paying for the name with Cuprinol? is B&Q or Homebase own treatment a reasonable alternative I wonder.
As for colour I would like to keep as light as possible so Golden oak or harvest gold look to be ok.

Ideas please...


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## MickCheese

I have used Cuprinol and it seemed to be a bit like paint, the colour didn't allow the wood grain to show through. I have also used Sadolin that was more like a protective stain and that was better. Both were a green colour. If you want a natural finish I would look at the Sadolin web site.

Not cheap though.

http://www.sadolin.co.uk/

I recently coated my wifes workshop, it's a log cabin at the bottom of our garden, using the Cuprinol sprayer, it was fast but clogged up lots and had I not had an airline I could not have unclogged it on one occasion.

Good luck

Mick


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## Oldman

Thanks for the reply, I will sideline the exterior treatment till later in the summer, as you say, expensive. Hopefully neighbours will be treating their buildings and I can sample their solutions to see whats best for my needs.

Moving on to fitting out the inside now, I want to line the walls inside so I can fit my racks and any other wall mounted kit.

I have several local choices for sheet material.

9mm 8x4 mdf @ £11.67
18mm @ £14.05

18mm chip @ £12.36

or Elliotis Pine Shutter ply
9mm 8x4 @ 10.06
18mm @ £16.68

I can pick up the studs or add extras before lining for anything heavy wall mounted so I'm looking towards 9mm mdf as a nice clean looking wall facing.
What would you choose?


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## TrimTheKing

Are you going to paint the inside or leave it with the sheet good finish? If you plan to paint it then I would go for OSB or ply. MDF will look great bit isn't best for taking a screw if you happen to miss a stud, and will soon be messy with screw holes. OSB or ply will take a screw much better and you won't need to guarantee to hit a stud for the lighter things (obviously heavy load bearing shelves will nee the studs.

I am no expert, and I'm sure others will be along soon, but this would be my thought.

Cheers

Mark


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## wizer

OSB is ideal IMO


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## yo_chuci

aint osb normally cheaper than ply too...

i usually use 1/2inch i think...

you gonna insulate behind it too...


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## Oldman

Hmmm, hadnt considered osb as I didnt want to paint inside and osb looks a little cheap  

Elliotis Pine Shutter ply 
9mm 8x4 @ £10.06 

Is the same price as 11mm osb per sheet, as long as its "one side good" maybe that would do.

I hadnt considered insulation as its got a breathable membrane inside already and I would I think need an air gap between it and any insulation meaning spacing the inner lining even further away (workshop getting smaller!) Plus I would need to also do the floor and roof then to make a difference, doubling the price of the shop by the time I finished


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## TrimTheKing

OSB does look cheap on its own, but with a nice coat of whitewash you get a cheap, strong wall covering and your shop will be nice and bright inside. But if the ply is the same price then go with that I guess.

There is another post on recently here where someone has mentioned shutter ply and how it's barely good enough for firewood, so be careful with that and make sure you check the quality of it.

Cheers

Mark


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## wizer

erm I really do suggest you paint the inside white. Use masonry paint on the OSB. It comes up really nice and brightens the workshop up. The light bounces around much better.


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## Shultzy

Oldman, when you put the wall covering up, rout a small "v" groove in line with the studding. This will ensure you know where they are to hang your cupboards.


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## Chris By The River

Regarding the exterior finish, I favour spirit based treatment because it is absorbed into the timber whereas the water based ones seem to be like an emulsion that 'sits' on the surface of the timber.

All of my timber natural finish buildings are dipped in a product called BARRETTINE, Summer Tan is the colour although you can get half a dozen other colours.

Another good thing about Barrettine is its extremely low viscosity - it will even spray from a Mr Muscle trigger bottle - very quick and easy (and no cleaning up, just throw it in the bin!)

www.barrettine.co.uk or PM me if you need more info

Chris


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## Night Train

Another tip would be to paint the boards first with a roller while they are still 8x4 sheets. Makes the job a lot easier later on.


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## MickCheese

Chris By The River":jtbcm3uj said:


> Regarding the exterior finish, I favour spirit based treatment because it is absorbed into the timber whereas the water based ones seem to be like an emulsion that 'sits' on the surface of the timber.
> 
> All of my timber natural finish buildings are dipped in a product called BARRETTINE, Summer Tan is the colour although you can get half a dozen other colours.
> 
> Another good thing about Barrettine is its extremely low viscosity - it will even spray from a Mr Muscle trigger bottle - very quick and easy (and no cleaning up, just throw it in the bin!)
> 
> www.barrettine.co.uk or PM me if you need more info
> 
> Chris



How does the Barrenttine compare with Sadolin for cost?

I prefer the look of the finish that is soaked up by the wood and leaves the grain showing.

Mick


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## Chris By The River

Mick,

I sell Barrettine WOOD PRESERVER for £25 retail (it is only available in 5ltr cans), £20 to past customers. This is NOT Shed and Fence treatment - sorry, i should have made that clear before.

5ltr's will normally treat a standard 8 x 6 shed 4 to 5 times

I think that fairs quite well against Sadolin.

Chris


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## Oldman

A quick google brings up 5ltr @ £15.99 here
http://www.hardware-ironmongers.com/det ... de=0431550
Though they have presented the wrong picture  

Having used a clear wood preserver (not water based) on my older shed I was very happy to see it all get sucked in by the wood rather than just lay on the surface like the water based treatments seem to do, but the outcome was imo not good with the surface going blackish as if the weather was also able to penetrate the timber within a few months. I then resorted to light creosote substitute which seems to be doing the job and costs considerably less.

Still at a loss really as to what to treat the new workshop wood with. The manufacturers say they used 2 coats of Cuprinol preserver.


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## Oldman

I now have a slight roofing problem to deal with.







I had the company back last week to nail down the rebated roof boards as they had failed to nail them all at the ends of the sections to the trusses and some were lifting so much the felt was being moved.

Now with some more sun it seems that other boards are cupping that are not at the ends of roof sections but again they have not nailed each board down to the truss.






I guess they thought good will would hold them in place. I'm a bit reluctant to call them back again for the same thing and was considering laying some roofing tile battoning on the outside directly above the trusses and screwing through from them to the trusses say every 6" to pin the lot down in place for now. I do intend to fit felt shingles instead of the felt thats there at some point but the way things are stacking up here it may not be until next spring.

I guess that once the boards have cupped and dried out they wont go back flat easily so I need to do something sooner rather than later.






Im guessing that when they felted they were supposed to a) nail down all the boards to the trusses and b) make sure the strips of timber they fitted over the felt joins came at truss positions to hold down the boards more. Well if thats the case they failed on both counts.


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## Oldman

Had a busy day today in the sunshine making an opening big enough for my new double glazed unit.






The original glazing was so well fitted I removed the glazing bars with my fingers, just pinned, and all 4 panes were out in a flash. Note to self to put security bars across the 4 windows on the end of the workshop soon.

I had to remove 4 plus lengths of shiplap and as I wanted to use them elsware this proved a bit if a pain as they were fixed with ring nails. I also wanted to keep the breathable fabric intact so had to take a hammer and block to the inside of the shiplap after sawing down at the required lenght ends to just release the boards by a couple of mil so I could get a hacksaw blade into the gap and cut all the nails, took a while!

I fitted some temp drilled metal plates to reinforce the head of the original windows hoping that would stop the side changing shape when the verticals were sawn out. 






Although this may have helped I still ended up with my saw jammed in the cut when I got to the second vertical to come out and had to rummage in the other store for an acrow to take the strain.






I reused the original noggins from the base of the small windows, just moved them down and screwed them back in place.






Nearly ready to offer the window to the hole. Wood preserver painted on all the fresh untreated wood. I trimmed back the membrane and restapled it into the opening.






I had made the apature +10mm in both directions so I could adjust the frame and had to spend quite a lot of time messing with ply packing pieces as I forgot to get any plastic packers that the pro's seem to use.
I did eventually get it squared up and fixed nicely ready for the glazing.

I had never fitted a double glazed unit before so was well pleased when all the glass was in and the beading clipped down with my plastic hammer without breaking anything.






I have some shiplap to fit to the left of the window tomorrow and mastic to apply where needed, plus some trim to tidy the surround.
Overall I am very pleased with the result, compare the last pic in the previous post to this last one, so much nicer.

I even managed to do a deal with her indoors. She is now having my workshed on the left in the pics for herself and I get the whole of my new workshop to myself


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## MickCheese

Looking really good.

Amazing what a huge difference it has made, more classy IMO.

Mick


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## Oldman

Finished trimming around the window today and siliconed to seal against the weather. Pity I didnt have any suitable nails for the shiplap, had to use nails from cable clips, hope they fade in soon :roll: 











I must be getting old, I used to be able to saw timber on a line and it always ended up square, these days even with a square line down 3 sides it near always ends up out of square. Am I alone or do you have the same happen since getting on in years?
I know you all use saw tables.... :lol:


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## MickCheese

Unlike you I have never been able to saw a straight line, I blame the saw!  

Mick


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## DaveL

Oldman":1l2c3ped said:


> I must be getting old, I used to be able to saw timber on a line and it always ended up square, these days even with a square line down 3 sides it near always ends up out of square. Am I alone or do you have the same happen since getting on in years?


I can remember as a child, 9 or 10 getting very cross at not being able to saw a straight line. :? I wrote 'why cant I saw straight' on a bit of wonky cut wood, dad pick up the wood and I then got into trouble as my spelling was worse than my sawing. :shock: 
I am please to say my spelling is good spelling not it wobbles, quote Poo Bear, however my sawing is much improved and the LOML is still amazed at how I can follow the line with a hand saw. \/
I like to make bread and often get sumond to cut it as LOML cannot cut straight. #-o


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## Oldman

Last week the workshed looked like this.






Needed to get some decking down for the wife to use in the summer when she entertains her friends to Barbeque's so it now looks like this.






The little area to the right forground will be paved with the barbeque built on it.
I've screwed a bit of decking to the gap between shop and deck for now to keep the cats out from underneth, I have some shiplap which I hope will cover that area later.


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## Oldman

Think I may need to get the circular saw out! The decking done at the weekend has boards running like this.






I was wondering this morning if it should have had room for expansion along the infilled sections.

Looking at Rogers super deck post from last year, it would seem I should have had a gap like his below.






Suggestions please?


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## TrimTheKing

I'm no expert but when I was planning mine I spoke to a bloke who spent most of his working days fitting decking and he said he would always advise a 6mm or so gap between boards. He just used his pencil as his guide.

HTH

Cheers

Mark


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## Oldman

I did go for a gap along the boards sides of 3mm, it was going to be 5mm but I didnt like viewing the weedcontrol through the gaps. I made some alloy L shaped 3mm plates to hang in the gaps to try to get them uniform.

Its actually the ends of the boards that are cut at 45% that I was wondering about where they butt up against the side of the framing boards, should I have a gap there?

This area.


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## TrimTheKing

Ah, my bad, now I understand. Well, I guess the expansion on the outer boards will go across the board and press on the ends, so I guess it would be preferred. But saying that, it is outdoors the whole time so maybe the movement won't be that massive. :? 

Sorry I can't be of more help, maybe a quick google might help?

Cheers

Mark


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## Karl

TrimTheKing":2z0zz7cq said:


> I'm no expert but when I was planning mine I spoke to a bloke who spent most of his working days fitting decking and he said he would always advise a 6mm or so gap between boards. He just used his pencil as his guide.
> 
> HTH
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Mark



Whenever I do decking I use a couple of 6" nails to act as spacers.

I would use a circular saw and create a relief on the area you have highlighted.

Cheers

Karl


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## wizer

If you've installed them in April, are they going to expand that much over the next season(s)?


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## Out int shed

I've done decking both with and without gaps and can honestly say that the times I have done it without the gaps I have not seen any problems with movement.

My personnel opinion is that the gap is only really needed as a way of allowing water to run off as as to avoid inadvertaintly creating a shallow swimming pool in your back garder!

If you have no gaps, or tight gaps on the deck, as long as there is a slight slope to allow water to run off you shouldnt see any problems.


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## Oldman

Well I may have a go at putting the circular saw down the edge to get a gap sawn but I dont want to mess it up  or I may just leave it as is :wink: 

I managed to get some more shiplap along the bottom edge yesterday to hide the transition from shed to frame. Hard to find the time atm for "homers"






Need top make up a kickplate for under the door now from either stainless or alloy treadplate.

Thinking of what to treat the whole lot with now to get a uniform colour over shop and decking, its looking like Cuprinol decking protector in golden teak may be what I need. Just need a remortgage to afford it!


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## filsgreen

Job's a good'un Oldman. The deck looks perfect for a drink after a hard day in your workshop.


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## Oldman

Had a word with Cuprinol customer service and they suggested Clear Decking protector for both workshop and deck to keep it "wood looking" without any stain.
Had to treat the old shed to the left as well so got some acorn brown shed and fence preserver thinking that would maybe match the other wood once finished.
Tested the acorn on some shiplap I had left over from the old shed, looked nice if a little orange but figured it will fade back some. Painted it onto the old shed and got a really red rich mahogany finish. 
Whoops! It must have not liked whatever I had painted on it in previous years. Oh well it will fade...

I used the same on the new workshop back and sides as I had lots left over and it looks nice on there Acorn colour ;-)

Still not made up my mind between acorn or clear on the more visible front of the workshop but have busied myself shortening the head of the door and frame by 40mm so I can tomorrow get a run of guttering along the front.
Used the clear protector where the gutter will fit so at least thats well protected before the gutter goes on.

Once the gutters finished I have a long run of armoured cable to lay up to the workshop from the supply.
At this rate it will be winter again before I have the shop wired out as I want and my kit in and usable.


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## Oldman

Had a busy week work wise but I have managed to get the guttering up on the front side of the workshop, the rest is laying on the ground below where its to be fitted hoping the fairy's will fit it for me.

I now have a run of 6mm armoured cable all the way up the garden to the older shed on the left, I hope to continue the run to the new workshop over the weekend.
I have drilled through into the back wall of my 36ft garage and terminated the armoured there in a 4x4" adaptable box.
From there to the consumer unit is another 46ft run of 6mm twin and earth. To make it easier for other circuits I need running through the garage I have just today finished fitting 3" galvanised cable tray at high level right back the cu.
Might just get some cable on the tray this week!

Once I get the supply to the workshop cu I still have all the circuits to wire for lights, 13amp power and a 32 amp socket for my plasma cutter. Need a 9 day week really.


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## MickCheese

I would like to see a photo of the finish. As I have said before, my wife has a log cabin as a workshop (Not woodwork I'm afraid, she is an entomologist) and treatment is a constant battle between colour, cost and not killing all her plants near the base.

Mick


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## Oldman

How not to do it first Mick, this is the old shed that was treated with clear preserver when first built then with a light brown creasote substitute a couple of years ago. I used Cuprinol shed & fence preserver Acorn brown this time and it went a strange colour, but im pretty sure its fading already so at some point I will like the colour :lol: 







The new workshop was treated with clear cuprinol by the manufacturers before delivery. I used the same Cuprinol acorn brown on it and am pleased with the result.











Its spirit based and went on easily, no patchy bits if left and gone back to after a cuppa and 5ltr was more than enough for 1 coat. I have done the 2 ends and back but not the front yet.


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## MickCheese

That looks nice. It still looks like wood and not as though you have painted it with emulsion.


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## Oldman

A very small update thats taken a long time to get fitted.

We now have power Huston...






6mm swa supply in and 6mm out to the next shed.






Small distribution board fitted but yet to wire the power and lighting back to it.


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## Oldman

Work continues on the workshop and deck albeit very slowly.

I had to refit a lot of the deck due to it being too springy for my liking, I also recut the angles at the end of the boards using a jig so they ended up uniform. I also ran a circular saw around the finished edge where I didnt remove boards to trim them back to leave a small gap. Both wife and I are now happy with the result, its stained with Cuprinol and due another coat of clear decking protector soon.











Got the gutters and downpipes all fitted now so the rain doesnt all try to seep under my workshop.

Enhanced the door security some, still need to bar the windows.

Got the wiring in for the main lighting and the fittings are up and working, mini trunking is now all round at high level ready for the ring main.

Lots of 20" deep shelving put up for tool storage. Had to reuse some old 3/4" shutter ply as I have run out of money for the moment. 

Oh ignore the paving, thats not set in yet. Its just laying on the surface to save the deck from muddy splashback, Im trying to ignore it and get on with the workshop.


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