# Workbench build - WIP - Almost finished and a small treat!!



## Zeddedhed (5 Jan 2014)

Having browsed many of the workbench WIP threads on here I'm close to the end of the procrastination/design phase of building my new bench.
I posted a while ago a large lump of wood which you guys thought was probably Iroko.







This is what I intend to use for the front portion of the bench. At least thats the plan. If anyone here knows a really good reason not to do so please let me know.
I'm sure some of you will think it's a huge waste or something like that, but it was free, and I can't see me using for anything else in the near future. Also I'm fed up with tripping over it.

The basic design will be to use the above slab as the front of the bench as previously stated, and then for the rear portion either a tool well (not too sure about this yet - it could end up being a huge ashtray/dumping ground etc) or laminate up some Beech or similar to make a second slab.

A good mate of mine has a slot running the full length of his bench which can be blocked off with a length of hardwood. When it comes out it tuns over and becomes a full length stop. This idea appeals to me, although I'm not sure why.
For work holding I'll probably go with a Record 52 1/2 quick release vice (i've used one of these quite a bit and like it a lot) and a wagon vice at the end.

Underframe will be made from Siberian Larch as I've got a load of 5 x 5 posts lying around left over from building the workshop.

The first job is to get the Iroko beast prepared. It's already got a face side and edge - we managed to throw it over a mates Wadkin UOS P/T
Now I need to square it up which I plan to do by making up a router sled and incrementally skimming it until all sides are parallel.

I'd be interested on the members opinions of building a bench from such a mix of timbers (it's mainly an economy thing - I want to use what I've already got as much as possible)

It's not going to be a quick build, but I thought if I declare my intentions to all and sundry it may just motivate me to get on with the damned thing.

I'll post pictures as and when and will welcome all feedback/mockery and insults. I know you're a fairly friendly and non judgmental bunch (unless the topic is sharpening :? ) but trust me - you haven't seen my attempts at hand cut Mortice and Tenons yet.

So in summary, watch this space and anyone selling a decent second hand Record 52 1/2 can get in touch asap. Or someone with a decent Wagon Vice thingy for sale. (Or someone with a nice workbench for sale!!  )

Pete


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## custard (5 Jan 2014)

Hello Pete, if that iroko is as big as it looks against the solo clamp in your photo then I reckon you're set fair and I wouldn't lose much sleep over the details. A massive top like that will compensate for an awful lot of shortcomings elsewhere! I'd try not to cut it about too much though, if you've built one bench you'll inevitably end up building a second when your ideas have developed a bit more, and it would be a shame if wagon vice slots or central stops prevented you from re-using such a mighty top.

Incidentally, absolutely no problems mixing wood for a bench.


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## Zeddedhed (5 Jan 2014)

Thanks Custard, that helps to set my mind at rest.
The Iroko slab really is that big - two of us can just lift it from the floor to the current bench top. When we were moving it into the workshop I dropped it on my foot - even though I was wearing steel toes I still end up with blood soaked socks.
I don't plan on cutting the central slot into the slab. I had the idea of cutting two blocks and using them to act as spacers between the front and rear slabs, thus creating a slot. Same principle for the wagon Vice slot - Spacers on the front edge of the iroko and then an apron (ish) of beech or whatever is lying around to create a slot. Probably make up some end pieces as well (if that makes sense)

When I get some more time I'll try and do a Sketchup drawing of my intended behemoth!!

Pete


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## MMUK (5 Jan 2014)

10" x 2" and about 7' long? I'm drooling here


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## Zeddedhed (9 Aug 2014)

I'm embarrassed to say that since starting this thread and telling you all that procrastination was (almost) over I was wrong.
Procrastination continued (and is possibly still going on).
Unfortunately I don't get much time to do "me" jobs - the ones I really want to do. Paying jobs and projects for 'er indoors always take priority so the fun bits get put on the back burner.

I'm now thoroughly fed up with tripping over the Iroko slab shown in the first post and having just purchased some new machinery and had a bit of sort out have decided that either I build the bench or use the slab for something else.

Part of the problem is that the slab only has a face side and edge - it's too big to go through my Hammer p/t for thicknessing and squaring off.

Getting it prepped is part of the reason for the inertia here.

Would it be a bad thing to rip it down it's length and then re-join it?

As i said in the earlier posts I've got some Siberian Larch (120 x 120) posts that I was going to use for legs and some Oak boards at 45 x 100 for the stretchers and underframe.

The Iroko will make up the front of the bench and then I intended to build a tool well at the back out of whatever was lying around.

After thicknessing the Iroko will end up about 350 x 65 x 2400.

Any comments gratefully received.


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## RobinBHM (9 Aug 2014)

Id be happy to machine it for you, Im just outside East Grinstead. 

Theres nothing wrong with cutting it and rejoining it, in principal it would be more stable, but cutting a wide board of iroko can release a lot of tension so you might end up with 2 bowed pieces!

Robin


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## Zeddedhed (9 Aug 2014)

Robin,
thanks very much for the offer - that's extremely kind of you. If you let me know your details I'll call you and arrange a time next week to get it over to you (along with some beer tokens of course 

The idea of ripping it down did make me wonder if I'd then end up with two 'canoes'.
The slab has been sitting in my workshop for nearly a year now and shows absolutely no signs of movement whatsoever, so I figured that using in one whole piece would be fine.
It would seems to be a bit of a crime to start chopping it up!


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## Phil Pascoe (9 Aug 2014)

Why do you need to machine it? Just clean up the other edge - what the underside looks like is neither here nor there.


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## Zeddedhed (9 Aug 2014)

Phil.p,
I guess I was think that if the underside is parallel to the top side, and the back edge parallel to the front edge it will make the whole assembly process that much easier when fitting the under frame etc.
I don't have much experience with this kind of joinery to be honest but when I've made tables I've always ensured that I start out with properly prepared boards. It just makes it easier for me later on. I'm not sufficiently skilled or experienced to deal with having a wonky face or edge.
Does that make sense?


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## Phil Pascoe (9 Aug 2014)

I'd just skim the bottom where it crosses the frame if there's any unevenness, but I take your point.


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## RobinBHM (9 Aug 2014)

No problem, anything to encourage some new inertia on the bench building front  

To be honest, Id be a bit put off having to par such a big lump with a router sled.

Ill pm you address/contact details.

Robin


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## Phil Pascoe (9 Aug 2014)

As Robin said. I once ripped a 10" x 3" in half to make a door frame - one side didn't move a jot and the other had a 2" bow in it as it left the saw.


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## Zeddedhed (21 Aug 2014)

Some (?) progress to report:

Firstly a huge thanks to Robin for bunging the lump of mystery wood through his mahoosive thicknesser.

Secondly, whilst hanging out with Jimi and fending off the amorous advances of Alfie we identified the wood as Keruing (probably). Fo a short while following a comment from a friend I thought I had got myself a huge chunk of BrazilWood and was worried that making a bench from such a rare piece of timber would cause the woodworking gods to strike me down! Happily this is not the case.

Now it's time for some design decisions to be finalised.

The main lump is now 80mm x 360 x 1780.
I'm heading for a width of about 765.
I want a tool well at the back
I want to utilise a full length stop as on some split top designs.
I have a Record 53 1/2 on it's way to me.
Dunno about tail vice - not keen on shouldered type for some reason.

I decided it was high time I downloaded Sketchup and tried to put together some ideas.
The picture below shows the bench top design so far.
The dog holes are representative - spacings and quantity to be refined.
The tool well will have ramps at either end - I couldn't figure out how to draw a wedge in SU.






if anyone can spot any obvious oversights or dumb ideas please let me know.

Thanks


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## No skills (21 Aug 2014)

I acquired a fair bit of keruing a couple of years ago, some in the form of trailer flooring and a lot of reclaimed plank floor/deck.

The second picture down in this thread is of a bit of the reclaimed stuff I had, the grain is very interlocked on all the bits I looked at.

wood-id-needed-t62413.html



As for your workbench design, if you think its right then it probably is - they seem to be a very personal thing to build. Cant say too much though as mines still a pile of reclaimed beech stacked up in the garage


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## Phil Pascoe (21 Aug 2014)

If you've a pillar drill or a decent drill stand, you can space some of your dog holes so they can be used to mount them by the vice, killing two birds with one stone. You can swing the drill out over something held in the vice.


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## Zeddedhed (21 Aug 2014)

phil.p":100fw7h8 said:


> If you've a pillar drill or a decent drill stand, you can space some of your dog holes so they can be used to mount them by the vice, killing two birds with one stone. You can swing the drill out over something held in the vice.



I take it that you prefer round dog holes as opposed to the square ones so often seen.

I've been thinking a lot about the dog holes and read an article by bench crafted (I think) which led me to go the square route (i.e.. home made wooden square dogs) but I'd like and value your opinion on the subject.

I realise that there is no reason not to do both (other than my own reluctance to carve up the big slab too much)

Is there a real disadvantage to either type or a strong advantage to either type?

Pete


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## Phil Pascoe (21 Aug 2014)

I was fortunate enough to get a pair of the famous Mr.T holdfasts. I know nothing of the square ones, but of course to mount something only requires a hole, it doesn't matter what shape it is, you just might need a bigger washer underneath.


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## AndyT (22 Aug 2014)

One feature not in your drawing is a slot behind the tool well to use as a rack for tools in use. This stops you getting too untidy and filling the tool well too much but is easier than putting everything away when you know you will need it again in five minutes.

I have one on my bench - pictures here https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/my-old-cheap-easy-bench-t82290.html.


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## Zeddedhed (22 Aug 2014)

Andy,
thanks for looking and for your comment.
I've incorporated a slot down the middle of the bench (in front of the tool well) which would take chisels, saws, etc when not being used as a stop.
Do you think I'd find that the position midway across the bench will be in the way?
You can probably tell I'm not that used to bench work.
Bear in mind that when this is done and in position I'll only have to turn around and walk one pace and I'll have a 1220 x 2440 assembly bench to hand.


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## Zeddedhed (22 Aug 2014)

Here's the latest Sketchup picture showing the base.

A bit more fiddling and thinking required and I'm due to start work on it next week.


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## Phil Pascoe (22 Aug 2014)

I suspect you'd find the slot in the middle would be a nuisance, and much better at the back. If you set your vice down 12mm -15mm from the top, you can put cover strips on top of the cheeks which will save the accidental tool "dings". On a similar open bench like this I inset a strip of Spur shelf support down the right leg so a short bracket can be set at any height if you need to hold large boards, doors etc.
There are loads of threads and YouTube video's on bench builds - I apologise if I'm telling you things you have already seen or know.


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## Zeddedhed (22 Aug 2014)

Phil.p - love the spur shelving idea - may have to nick that one.
With regards the vice I intend to set it so that the rear jaw is 15 back from the edge of the bench so that once a false jaw is installed it comes flush to the front.
Again, good idea about setting it down as well - I hadn't thought of that


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## Phil Pascoe (22 Aug 2014)

Yes, if you wish to keep a flush surface on the whole front, the strip definitely needs insetting. (Do it before you make the frame up)


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## AndyT (22 Aug 2014)

Slot question - like Phil P said.

Your tool well needs to be easy to sweep shavings out of - ramps may be ok; I just left mine open, with a box wedged below it at one end, ready to catch shavings.

Looking at your picture - I'd be wanting to put a shelf across the bottom before very long - that space is too valuable not to use, in my workshop at least. If you know you will never want to do that, the side to side rails don't have to be level with the front to back rails, making the joints a bit simpler.


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## Paul Chapman (22 Aug 2014)

The piece of wood you have running along the front of the bench top - I would have that running the whole length of the top and not stopped short as you have it. 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Zeddedhed (22 Aug 2014)

Paul,
not sure exactly which piece you are referring to.
Are you suggesting that the end 'caps' are inside the front pieces as opposed to the way I've drawn it?
If so, what is the reasoning for this?

Pete


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## Phil Pascoe (22 Aug 2014)

AndyT":98wx3end said:


> Slot question - like Phil P said.
> 
> Your tool well needs to be easy to sweep shavings out of - ramps may be ok; I just left mine open, with a box wedged below it at one end, ready to catch shavings.
> 
> Looking at your picture - I'd be wanting to put a shelf across the bottom before very long - that space is too valuable not to use, in my workshop at least. If you know you will never want to do that, the side to side rails don't have to be level with the front to back rails, making the joints a bit simpler.



I staggered the joints for simplicity and added a couple of cross pieces in the same plane as the two longest cross members afterwards to carry the shelf. It helps keep the joints stronger.


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## Paul Chapman (22 Aug 2014)

Zeddedhed":2crh52lz said:


> Are you suggesting that the end 'caps' are inside the front pieces as opposed to the way I've drawn it?
> If so, what is the reasoning for this?



Yes. The reason is that there will be differences in the direction of movement as the wood expands and contracts if you have it the way you've drawn it. Most of the wood along the front of the bench is long grain but the two bits at the ends are end grain. You will tend to get a slight step at the ends as the wood expands and contracts.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Zeddedhed (22 Aug 2014)

Ahh. makes sense now.
How do you deal with this when making breadboard ends on a dining table?
This is something else I'm going to be making soon out of 180 x 30 oak boards.

Pete


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## Paul Chapman (22 Aug 2014)

Zeddedhed":1ddahuj6 said:


> How do you deal with this when making breadboard ends on a dining table?



You can't. With breadboard ends on a table, you just have to accept that there will be a step between the breadboard ends and the rest of the table, and that the size of the step will vary depending on the level of humidity. The only way to avoid it is not to use breadboard ends.

If you decide to use breadboard ends on your dining table, be sure to construct it in the correct way which will allow for the uneven expansion and contraction and avoid the top splitting.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## custard (22 Aug 2014)

Zeddedhed":1lriwcu0 said:


> How do you deal with this when making breadboard ends on a dining table?



Be proud of that tiny shrinkage step, it's a stamp of authenticity and every time you run your fingers over it you'll reflect on what a wonderful material wood is.


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## Zeddedhed (24 Aug 2014)

Leg end frames glued up and in the clamps.
Tomorrow the rest of the under fame and then later in the week work can start on the top.







I've just noticed that this thread is in the General Woodworking forum. Did I put it there?
I thought it was in the projects forum but it could be that on editing the title I've inadvertently moved it - if so apologies to the Forum Gods!!


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## Zeddedhed (25 Aug 2014)

I'm having a bit of a "dither" over the issue of a tail vice and would appreciate some advice.

Firstly, is it possible and also relatively trouble free to retro fit a tail vice?
If the answer is 'yes' then I'll quit worrying and get on with building the rest of the bench.

If the answer is no, then what do people think about the various options - shouldered, full width, twin screw, wagon vice (?) etc?

I've got absolutely no idea how to fit one and having looked at various images am none the wiser. I'm thinking that if I go for one maybe the Veritas model below.






I don't really want to get into loads of Dovetailling and the like for fitting a vice - I just want to get on with it. I'm not at all concerned that the bench is a showstopper visually speaking. More that it is rock solid.

The leg end frames in the previous post weigh 32.5kg each, so I'm happy that it will have plenty of mass once the top has been installed.

As stated earlier front vice is a record 53 1/2.

If I decide to retro fit then I'll hold off on dog holes and wait until I've fitted a tail vice. I've got a good drill stand to ensure I drill the dog holes vertically.

All help and opinions gratefully received


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## Phil Pascoe (25 Aug 2014)

An easier way to drill your dog holes if you've a bench stand is to get a length of 4" x 2" and put a few perfectly perpendicular holes in it on your press, then just line that up over your marks, clamp it down and use as a guide. It's easier to move a couple of feet of 4" x 2" every time than a drill press. If you have an auger in a power drill, just push it through the scrap, jab the lead screw into the bench and push the scrap down, then clamp it - it'll keep your bit on target.
I believe it was Dangermouse's bench (or it was one of them) that had a 53 fitted as a tail vice - have a look. How easy it is to retro fit a 53? Don't forget it's underslung so you need a fair overhang of the frame for it to fit, or the cross member on the end set down far enough for it not to interfere.


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## Zeddedhed (25 Aug 2014)

UPDATE!!
SWIMBO has seen me perusing the web and the forums and enquired as to what exactly I was doing.
When I told her that i was trying to solve the tail vice conundrum without spending loads of dose she replied that as it was a long term investment and was important to get it right I should forget the cost and go for what is best for the job.

Once I'd scraped my jaw from the floor I remembered seeing this beauty:






After a bit of checking and looking through the Veritas instruction leaflet online it would seem that i can easily fit this to my bench without having to overhang the top at the RHS.

I mocked it up in sketch up (it's amazing that you can download models of things like this particular vice) and it would look something like this:






I realise that I'd probably have to hack a bit out of the top of the leg frame but it's already 112mm square so I can't see that hurting it.

Any thoughts?

Pete


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## marcros (25 Aug 2014)

personally, i think that i prefer the wagon vices, but it depends a great deal on the intended use.


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## Zeddedhed (25 Aug 2014)

marcros":y6q8owrb said:


> personally, i think that i prefer the wagon vices, but it depends a great deal on the intended use.



Marcros, could you expand a little on that please. Which type of vice is better for which type of use?

I'm a total newbie to benchwork so need some guidance here.
Going by SWIMBOs earlier statement I could go for one of Richard Maguires wagon vices. I guess i may then need the overhang at the end but if ultimately it's going to be a better option then so be it.


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## marcros (25 Aug 2014)

well, for me, I would prefer to be able to trap a piece flat on the top, trapping it between a bench dog and the wagon vice. The tail vice is more for holding work, an alternative to the face vice. The Chris Schwarz book covers the various details in depth, i think. But my copy is buried in my workshop at the moment. I will try to get to it tomorrow evening.

I havent read the full thread- what do you mean by overhang? I presume that is an issue?


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## Zeddedhed (25 Aug 2014)

Thanks Marcros.

From what you've said I think that for my needs the Twin Screw is probably the best option. Mostly it will be used for holding pieces but can also be used like a wagon vice if the moveable jaw has a dog hole or two drilled into it thus allowing me to trap a board between dogs or even use it for glue ups.

Regarding the overhang I was referring to the fact that on my current design the legs are located very close to the ends of the bench. From what I can make out a wagon vice would require me to mount the RHS leg frame about 18 inches in from the end of the bench.

Hope that makes sense.

Pete


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## marcros (25 Aug 2014)

ah i see now.

i think that the twin screw would be easier now too. If you were at the design stage, there wouldnt be as much in it, but it sounds like the twin screw will be more useful to you anyway.


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## Paul Chapman (25 Aug 2014)

I have the Veritas twin-screw vice and the Veritas quick-release sliding tail vice, both of which I retro-fitted to my bench









While the twin-screw vice is good, for a tail vice I would fit the quick-release sliding tail vice. I think it is probably the best tail vice available - better even than the Maguire and Benchcrafted wagon vices. It's expensive, but then the best usually is........

I did a write-up here of how I fitted them http://www.woodworkuk.co.uk/forum/viewt ... f=9&t=6113

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Zeddedhed (27 Aug 2014)

Here's what's been going on in the Man-Cave over the last few days with the workbench:

Leg frames came out of the clamps looking good - I'm always slightly nervous when I take a project out of the clamps in case it's gone all twisted or weird on me. Fortunately these were SPOT ON!! Hooray for me 

View attachment 2014


I have to confess that these were just glued and domino'd together - 4 x 14 x 100 dominos in each 'joint' - I'm not quite at the M&T stage yet.

Next was to assemble the 'ladder frame' to go between the two end frames. This was simply screwed together. I was pretty pleased with the fit. It kind of 'sucked' itself into place with a few taps from a deadblow.

View attachment 2014


Placed the big orange slab on top to show what it'll look like once complete. It is seriously heavy and extremely stable already.
I'm thinking that rather than fix the top down I'll locate it on dominos, one in each corner. I can't imagine it'll ever move.







I picked up a Veritas twin screw for the tail vice today and took delivery of a Record 53 QR that I bought from Gumtree for £8.
The QR mechanism is fine, the thread looks good and it really needs nothing more than a cleanup to get the gunk off it.
The only issue so far is the false jaws need to come off and the slotted screws used to fix them are seized solid. I've soaked them in WD40 and tried everything I know to get the pippers out but they will not budge. Any ideas welcome


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## OLD (28 Aug 2014)

Just split the false jaws remove screws and make new wood jaws .


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## JJ1 (29 Aug 2014)

Excellent bench build and looks like it's coming along very nicely. Very envious of your Veritas twin screw vice. The legs look rock solid and at over 30KG each end, there's not much that's going to make that move.
I'm looking forward to the next installment


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## Zeddedhed (29 Aug 2014)

JJ1":3v7xx4wb said:


> Excellent bench build and looks like it's coming along very nicely. Very envious of your Veritas twin screw vice. The legs look rock solid and at over 30KG each end, there's not much that's going to make that move.
> I'm looking forward to the next installment



Thanks for the encouragement JJ.

I've got the front half of the top in clamps at the moment - I'll carry on with it in the morning.






My kids are keeping me busy at the moment so I'm not getting it done as fast as I'd like but there's something to be said for making dens and cooking sausages over open fires - keeps me young!






I cleaned up the Record Vice a bit today and managed to get the false jaws off so I'll have a go at fitting that tomorrow before the top gets completed.

The it's making the tool well and the centre slot which will be three 15mm strips of Oak with a bit left out if that makes sense. I'll try and get some more pictures up tomorrow.


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## Zeddedhed (3 Sep 2014)

So - nearly finished.
Tool slot and tool well made up and clamped - all went well (ish)
Then the whole lot was glued up and clamped together.
The vice got fitted without too much of a problem.
Planing down the top was fun (not) but I got there in the end. Pictures below.


















And 'cos I was feeling pleased with myself I splashed out on a wee treat.....





I ran out of oak for the end caps so can't fit the Veritas Twin Screw yet. A mate has got a load of 2" oak in his kiln at the moment and has promised me a lump that I can use to finish it off.

It weighs an absolute ton and I'm well pleased.

Mistakes: I planed down the first half of the top before gluing and clamping it to the rear half. As a result I din't notice that I wasn't planing flat. This could just be because I'm rubbish at planing!!
Also I discovered that it's real important to check machine fences regularly. My PT fence was out by a shad which means the components don't fit as well as they should/could.
The bench top itself is therefore not totally flat - up to a 2mm deviance overall and this is something I will remedy when I've perfected my planing skills a bit more.

Thanks for looking

Pete


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## JJ1 (3 Sep 2014)

Great job. I'll be very happy if mine turns out half as good.


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## Zeddedhed (3 Sep 2014)

Thanks for that JJ - much appreciated.

Because my photography isn't that good you can't see all the little defects/gaps and misalignments, so in some ways I'm a bit miffed that i didn't correct some of the little errors as I went along. They end being compounded into unfixable things later on. BUT...it's ONLY a workbench and I suspect that in a few months time it'll have a few battle scars and the things that bug me will be long forgotten.
The main thing is it's heavy, stable and solid. It holds things well in the vice and it's ready to use!!


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## Phil Pascoe (3 Sep 2014)

Excellent! It'll be a good, last a lifetime bench. Well done!


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## n0legs (4 Sep 2014)

Solid heavy bench, you won't be chasing that one round the workshop.
Lovely top, great job =D>


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## PAUL_TDI (5 Sep 2014)

Looking very smart.

My new bench has a few mis-measurements due to relying on timber sizes. All that matters is it's solid though.


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## GLFaria (30 Sep 2014)

Paul Chapman":2bzly2wf said:


> I have the Veritas twin-screw vice and the Veritas quick-release sliding tail vice, both of which I retro-fitted to my bench
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Awfully sorry to steal the thread, I just couldn't start to find out where to find the answer to this question - Paul, I read somewhere that your bench top is MDF (sorry if I'm wrong, but it really looks like). May I ask what finish did you use on the top? Could you point me to any thread where you might have detailed its construction (it´s actually the top I am interested in, not so much the full bench )
Thanks, and my apologies to the OP.
G.


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## Paul Chapman (30 Sep 2014)

Hi G,

I built the bench about 12 years ago - long before I was into digital photography, so I don't have any photographs of it's construction. I'll try to explain how I made it.

You are correct, the top is made from MDF. I originally intended it as a temporary bench until I could afford to build something better but it's been so successful I've decided I don't need anything better.

The original top (before I fitted the Veritas vices) measures 75" long and 25" wide. It's made from three layers of 18mm MDF, lipped with softwood. I lipped the individual pieces of MDF first, using biscuits and PVA adhesive, then planed the lippings flush. I then glued the three pieces of MDF together, again with PVA and some biscuits to help with location. It's important to get even pressure over the whole of the top when cramping it so I used lots of curved wooden cauls and G cramps - you need quite a lot!

I used a 3/4" flat bit in a drill stand to drill the dog holes. I can't quite remember exactly how I did this, but had to get the base of the drill stand under the bench top to get enough travel. I just remember it was a bit of a fiddle.

I think I gave the top a coat of Sadolin Classic wood preservative (I don't think that was necessary but it seemed a good idea at the time) but now I just occasionally wax it with Liberon Black Bison wax - it helps to get any dried glue off.

I did worry how the dog holes would stand up to wear and tear but they have been fine. I use various Veritas dogs in them and the holes haven't distorted at all.

Overall I've been delighted with the bench. It's had a lot of use but still looks as good as new. It's very heavy, which is helpful, and has remained dead flat. If I were to build another bench, I think I would do it the same way.

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## GLFaria (5 Oct 2014)

Paul Chapman":3ahsm79h said:


> Hi G,
> 
> I built the bench about 12 years ago - long before I was into digital photography, so I don't have any photographs of it's construction. I'll try to explain how I made it.
> 
> ...



Cheers :wink: 
Hi, Paul.
I apologise for taking this long to thank you, my computer went out of order and took some days (and quite some $$$...  ) to repair.
Cheers :wink: 
Hi, Paul.
I apologise for taking this long to thank you, my computer went out of order and took some days (and quite some $$$...  ) to repair.
I am thinking of a much smaller size, but wanted to make sure MDF would be a viable option. The dog-holes were one of my misgivings...
Thank you very much.

G.


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