# The Build Begins (Workshop in Garage)



## billw

So today I finally got started, and all I can say is that trying to put a 2440x1220 sheet of 18mm ply 950mm up on a wall on your own is, quite frankly, difficult. However, it is achievable. From my thread about potential designs, this is where I started.: -







've got a bit more work to do tomorrow and Sunday before I put an update photo.

To do list: -
1. second piece of 18mm ply (smaller thankfully)
2. lighting rig (3 600x600 LED panels with 2 blank panels as spacers)
3. French cleats

After that I'm onto cabinets and benches. Have decided that aside from the bench, all units will have castors even if I don't plan on moving them. You never know!


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## Jameshow

Good start. 

Can you find another home for the mower and other stuff? 

You soon fill the workshop with woodworking stuff. 

I find I'm always trying. To chuck car stuff etc to make room for woodworking stuff! I'm far from those modernist YouTube workshops!!! 

Cheers James


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## Lons

I built another garage years ago after suggesting that it could be home for my wife's car, the car was in it no longer than a week before I relocated all the non woodworking stuff.


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## billw

Jameshow said:


> Can you find another home for the mower and other stuff?



Yeah there’s a garden shed which isn’t large but only looks vaguely full because stuff’s dumped in it. A quick tidy up and I can probably move a lot of stuff from the garage into it. It’s only me who uses the mower so there can’t be any complaints at least.


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## DBT85

Sorry im being obtuse, why were you trying to get a full sheet up that high?


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## billw

DBT85 said:


> Sorry im being obtuse, why were you trying to get a full sheet up that high?



It's the backing for the cleat system, I'm designing the benches at 900mm so the board finishes just above them. Achieved it using a few shims and blocks to stop it falling forward.


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## DBT85

billw said:


> It's the backing for the cleat system, I'm designing the benches at 900mm so the board finishes just above them. Achieved it using a few shims and blocks to stop it falling forward.


So a full sheet on the wall for the wall cleats to screw into? You hanging the titanic on it?


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## Jameshow

You'll soon fill it! - I have! 

I'm going to put some shelves on mine to put my expanding plane collection on it. 
What is the best way to store planes on end. Or flat but with some scrap to keep the blade off the shelf?? 

Cheers James


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## DBT85

Jameshow said:


> You'll soon fill it! - I have!
> 
> I'm going to put some shelves on mine to put my expanding plane collection on it.
> What is the best way to store planes on end. Or flat but with some scrap to keep the blade off the shelf??
> 
> Cheers James


If you're that worried about the blade then just route a notch where the blade will be.


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## billw

Jameshow said:


> You'll soon fill it! - I have!
> 
> I'm going to put some shelves on mine to put my expanding plane collection on it.
> What is the best way to store planes on end. Or flat but with some scrap to keep the blade off the shelf??
> 
> Cheers James



I’ve seen 101 options for french clear plane holders, some of them keep the blade off a surface, some don’t. I haven’t decided on the final design but I’ll definitely be using one that keeps the blade from resting on a surface.


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## billw

DBT85 said:


> So a full sheet on the wall for the wall cleats to screw into? You hanging the titanic on it?



Not just the cleats there’s lighting and other stuff, it just seemed a lot easier to change things in future if I was not perpetually drilling holes into a wall. Also, it’s not my wall.


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## DBT85

Oh in that case crack on!


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## Jameshow

DBT85 said:


> If you're that worried about the blade then just route a notch where the blade will be.



How obvious! Silly me!! 

Cheers James


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## artie

Here's todays daft question. From someone who has never seen or used them
How thin can cleats be, is 18 mm about the limit?


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## billw

artie said:


> Here's todays daft question. From someone who has never seen or used them
> How thin can cleats be, is 18 mm about the limit?



18mm seems pretty common, it's what I've gone with and thinking about it I can't remember a time when anyone's used anything other than that (unless you count 3/4").


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## DBT85

Jameshow said:


> How obvious! Silly me!!
> 
> Cheers James


You are not alone in engaging brain at level 6 when you really just needed it barely warmed up on level 1. I do that ll the time!


artie said:


> Here's todays daft question. From someone who has never seen or used them
> How thin can cleats be, is 18 mm about the limit?


Honestly I don't know. I used 18mm shuttering ply as I had a bit knocking about. Realistically you could probably hold most stuff up just fine with 6mm or something! When you consider the forces in play it would likely be fine and the weight of the items is what pulls the two cleats together.

I have entire shelves stacked with household rubbish in some built in wardrobes being held up at either end by 2 screws going through a bit of at most 9mm ply but probably thinner and into another shelf. Not going anywhere.

The benefit of a thicker piece is it needs to lift further before falling off the cleat. Useful if you go to pick something up and catch its holder and it lifts a fraction.


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## artie

billw said:


> 18mm seems pretty common,





DBT85 said:


> Honestly I don't know. I used 18mm shuttering ply as I had a bit knocking about.


I had to rearrange the shap recently to accommodate longer lengths of raw material. For economy and flexibility you understand.
Scratching my head today as I pondered how I could better utilise the space available, I concluded I could replace two cupboards and a table with wall cleats and. if it works out gain 18-24" of floor space. I have loads of 12mm off cuts in 48" lengths I could use hence the question.
I suppose I could do an experiment before laying out for 18mm


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## Bale

To hang a full sheet on the wall easily... Use cleats! One split batten at the top to hang it from and one unsplit at the bottom (screwed to the board) to space out from the wall the same distance. Pick up the board, hang it on the cleat. Job done.

HTH

Pete


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## DBT85

artie said:


> I had to rearrange the shap recently to accommodate longer lengths of raw material. For economy and flexibility you understand.
> Scratching my head today as I pondered how I could better utilise the space available, I concluded I could replace two cupboards and a table with wall cleats and. if it works out gain 18-24" of floor space. I have loads of 12mm off cuts in 48" lengths I could use hence the question.
> I suppose I could do an experiment before laying out for 18mm


Honestly I'm sure 12mm would be fine. Hell you could probably hang cupboards from it with no issue at all. Remember that wall cleats often end up being a very 2d solution. Not that there is any reason to be like that really, just how it often ends up.


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## Bale

DBT85 said:


> Honestly I'm sure 12mm would be fine. Hell you could probably hang cupboards from it with no issue at all. Remember that wall cleats often end up being a very 2d solution. Not that there is any reason to be like that really, just how it often ends up.



You're right. I started work in the exhibition and display trade 40 years ago and this was a routine method to hang pretty much anything on a wall/panel. I've used 6mm plywood battens (we called them 'split battens' not french cleats) many times, although thicker ones seemed to make the client less nervous. The problem with thinner stock is that any undulations in the surface you're fixing to make them difficult to seat properly. But if you're worried, put a screw through the back panel of whatever you're hanging into the cleat once it's hung. It's not going to go anywhere then.

HTH

Pete


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## Lons

artie said:


> I had to rearrange the shap recently to accommodate longer lengths of raw material. For economy and flexibility you understand.
> Scratching my head today as I pondered how I could better utilise the space available, I concluded I could replace two cupboards and a table with wall cleats and. if it works out gain 18-24" of floor space. I have loads of 12mm off cuts in 48" lengths I could use hence the question.
> I suppose I could do an experiment before laying out for 18mm


If you're concerned about the thickness, I wouldn't be, just glue strips of your 12mm to double up to 24mm


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## billw

I guess it does entirely depend on what you’re hanging on them! I’m sure 18mm will be total overkill for me but I suppose I just don’t know what I’ll be needing to put on them in ten years’ time.


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## DBT85

billw said:


> I guess it does entirely depend on what you’re hanging on them! I’m sure 18mm will be total overkill for me but I suppose I just don’t know what I’ll be needing to put on them in ten years’ time.


Do us a favour. Cut one that's 60cm long, put 2 screws in it and hang from it. I'm sure it won't move.

Edit: Sorry Bill i got you and artie mixed up!


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## Bale

Just a caveat to what I posted a few minutes ago....
I've used 6mm cleats for small, lightweight cabinets in a domestic environment. 12mm cleats in my own workshops to hang tool cabinets from the wall. In a commercial environment we used 2"x1" softwood because it was convenient and we had miles of it in stock. Any queries, hit me up.

Pete


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## Benchwayze

I store planes flat on the sole. I rest them on small slips of timber to keep the soles from conact with the shelf just in case damp from a timber shelf finds its way onto the sole. Planes are made to cut wood so I'm not too worried about the blades being damaged by a timber shelf.

John


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## John Brown

billw said:


> So today I finally got started, and all I can say is that trying to put a 2440x1220 sheet of 18mm ply 950mm up on a wall on your own is, quite frankly, difficult. However, it is achievable. From my thread about potential designs, this is where I started.: -
> 
> View attachment 96362
> 
> 
> 've got a bit more work to do tomorrow and Sunday before I put an update photo.
> 
> To do list: -
> 1. second piece of 18mm ply (smaller thankfully)
> 2. lighting rig (3 600x600 LED panels with 2 blank panels as spacers)
> 3. French cleats
> 
> After that I'm onto cabinets and benches. Have decided that aside from the bench, all units will have castors even if I don't plan on moving them. You never know!


It might seem difficult, until you've dragged 8 1220 by 2440 18mm sheets of OSB up onto your shed roof single handed.


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## clogs

all's well so far but I think I would have sorted the floor out first.....
easy to do with an empty shop and oh so nice when cleaning up.....
keep up the good work.....


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## billw

So today I waited all day for my new (cheap) track saw to arrive, which I need to tidy up a terribly uneven job done using my current circular saw, luckily I left some margin in the cut just in case so once I shave off 5mm it'll fit nicely on the wall and I can get the second ply panel fitted.

Instead of doing nothing I started making the frame for the LED light panels, it's just a lot of 28x18mm softwood at the moment, and I'm still figuring out the best way to structurally strengthen it. The back edge will sit on top of the ply boards being attached to the wall, but as it is just over 600mm wide it will definitely need some assistance!

Took a quick photo....






I used the panel to test every section (there's 5 in total, 3 will be lights, two are just thin ply blanks) to make sure I didn't get to the end and find out I'd gone wrong. Admittedly one or two are a little tight, but hand pressure alone works to get the panel in.

There's only a plug on that panel as I tested it out, I'll wire them all up properly and attach to the lighting circuit at some point. I changed a double socket yesterday and knocked out the electrics in the entire house, so I hope my next attempt is less eventful.

Everything feels like veeeeeeeery slow progress at the moment. At least I have all the required timber for the initial set up now, and 4 full sheets of 18mm ply which will hep me get cracking on new benches and cabinets.

I've decided on a 1800x600 bench, the first cabinet is 1200x600 and will be partially flip top and house the thicknesser, the second cabinet will also be 1200x600 and be mainly used as a sharpening station (and thus involve water, so won't have any electrical stuff near it as that's just me asking for trouble). The bandsaw will have its own mobile single stand, and the planer will go on a board that will fix to the MFT benchtop. The bench will also double as a router table. All the cabinets with clear surface area will be the same height (865mm which is comfortable for me) so I can pull them together to make a large surface for finishing, and also as in/out feed tables for a future mitre or small table saw.

All the tops will be Valchromat, I haven't ordered it yet but since I can pretty much create all the units and then fix the tops on last then I will just get on with using up the ply first.

Also in the meantime I'm looking up potential designs for the cleat system, there's obvious things like drill bits, chisels, etc but also some great ideas for saws, hammers, and measuring tools. I'm literally going to try and get as much stuff as I can onto the walls which will leave all my drawer space free for things that just aren't suited to being hung up.

So plenty to get on with, I just have to somehow reverse my mum's dreadful habit of hoarding so I can get rid of the sheer volume of useless tat that she insists on keeping "just in case".


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## matkinitice

I'll be watching this closely.

I'm starting my garage build in the next few weeks, but it won't be till spring until things get interesting so I'll share details then.

Out of interest - the LED panel. How are these wired into the lighting system? Is it just live/netural - with earth if needed? The "plug" on that image is confusing me - though I believe from the panels I was looking at the plug is for testing - can you share an image of the connection closely - minus the plug.


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## DBT85

mAtKINItice said:


> I'll be watching this closely.
> 
> I'm starting my garage build in the next few weeks, but it won't be till spring until things get interesting so I'll share details then.
> 
> Out of interest - the LED panel. How are these wired into the lighting system? Is it just live/netural - with earth if needed? The "plug" on that image is confusing me - though I believe from the panels I was looking at the plug is for testing - can you share an image of the connection closely - minus the plug.


Typically the panel itself just has a lead with a locking barrel connector on the end. The panel will come with the little box (typically a 240v ac to 12v dc transformer) that connects to the barrel connector at one end and will usually have live and neutral tails hanging out, or terminals to wire into.

From there you can do what you like pretty much. Mine are all daisy chained on some 1.5mm (overkill) 2 core flex as no earth was needed. Connected together with wagos. All just goes to a plug on a socket on the lighting ring. Still controlled by the light switch but if I want to I can easily put a smart plug on the entire 600w of LEDs in my workshop and shout pointlessly at Alexa to turn the damned things on.


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## billw

mAtKINItice said:


> Out of interest - the LED panel. How are these wired into the lighting system? Is it just live/netural - with earth if needed? The "plug" on that image is confusing me - though I believe from the panels I was looking at the plug is for testing - can you share an image of the connection closely - minus the plug.



Yes, as @DBT85 says the wire coming off the panel clips into the transformer (each panel comes with one) and then there's just a L/N connection coming out of them. Just a case of running cable to hook them all up and then straight into the lighting circuit. The plug is just because it was easier to juice it up from a socket that was close to hand rather than messing about wiring it into the actual lighting circuit temporarily.


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## billw

DBT85 said:


> Still controlled by the light switch but if I want to I can easily put a smart plug on the entire 600w of LEDs in my workshop and shout pointlessly at Alexa to turn the damned things on.



I'm liking this idea!


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## DBT85

billw said:


> I'm liking this idea!


I have the plug ready to go, just not sure if I can be bothered! The switch is right next to the door and with no windows its literally pitch black in there with no lights on anyway! Its not like a little lamp in the corner of the room that you can't be bothered getting up to turn off, if I turn these off from the middle of my workshop I'll smash my shin on something getting out!


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## billw

DBT85 said:


> ... if I turn these off from the middle of my workshop I'll smash my shin on something getting out!



Well actually I have the same. The garage circuit powers one 60W bulb, but the switch is at the front and I always use the back door so when I go in it's pitch black. Maybe getting a remote control switch might be the answer.


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## DBT85

billw said:


> Well actually I have the same. The garage circuit powers one 60W bulb, but the switch is at the front and I always use the back door so when I go in it's pitch black. Maybe getting a remote control switch might be the answer.


Oh yeah for you it makes sense then. Smart wall switches are expensive and most want Neutral in there too which most uk wiring doesn't have in the switch box. So its either a smart bulb or put the light on a smart plug.


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## billw

So today's progress was slow. The second piece of ply is now up on the wall. Meets the other sheet perfectly at the bottom but there's a 1mm gap at the top. It nearly brought me to tears. Just kidding, it's completely irrelevant.

The frame for the lights is complete and being left overnight for the glue to dry on one end (which takes FOREVER in cold weather as I discovered the hard way). I've retested a panel in it and it fits but it's *very* tight. At least it won't fall out. Probably.

I was going to fit some of the cleats but found that my entire supply of screws are either 1" or 1 1/2" and I need, yeah you guessed it, 1 1/4" so they're now on order. I've decided on a 100mm gap between cleats, this should allow for smaller units to sit above each other and larger ones to have relevant support. This should give me 6 or 7 rows of cleats, depending on how far up I decide to go (I don't want to go too close to the lights). The bottom row won't be cleats, just support. This is mainly to stop me getting tempted to hang stuff on it that will get in the way of the units which will be just 50mm below. 

Each cleat row is 3090mm wide, so I think that's plenty especially since I don't think there will be many large units that cover multiple rows. At each end of the ply boards is a blank 415mm wide section, I haven't decided what to do with them yet, perhaps storing longer things like clamps, or cubbyholes for temporary storage of components or things I need for a particular project to avoid them getting mislaid.

Here's the wall.....






The 415mm bits are due to the garage door and the tap. How convenient they were exactly the same width! The timber standing up is for the cleats.

And here is the SketchUp of the first unit that will be made. I'll probably do a separate thread for this so I won't comment too much on it here.


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## DBT85

That's a whole lot of cleats! The few i put up I just got the first one up and horizontal, then put one in above it as the actual cleat (so point down) and then used a spacer (just some 6mm aluminium bar in my case) to sit the next cleat on. Check for level obvs but it's a damned sight easier than trying to just bang them all up on their own and you'll get perfect spacing and parallelism. Once the first one is up you don't need to hold the weight of the next ones either.

Get a drawer in under that thicknessesr too! I assume you downloaded the model or did you model it (the thicknessesr) yourself?


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## billw

DBT85 said:


> That's a whole lot of cleats! The few i put up I just got the first one up and horizontal, then put one in above it as the actual cleat (so point down) and then used a spacer (just some 6mm aluminium bar in my case) to sit the next cleat on. Check for level obvs but it's a damned sight easier than trying to just bang them all up on their own and you'll get perfect spacing and parallelism. Once the first one is up you don't need to hold the weight of the next ones either.
> 
> Get a drawer in under that planer too! I assume you downloaded the model or did you model it (the planer) yourself?



I overordered on timber in case I made a mistake  .Given the panels are acceptably level, the first one will be placed right at the bottom and I've already made some 100mm spacers so all being well it should be a very quick job to get them all up.

Drawer - yes I did think that would also help with structural rigidity, but I wanted to measure the height of my thicknesser first as the only model I could find was the DeWalt and mine's Metabo. It's inspired by about three other designs and I've borrowed elements from each, although the big difference is the fact that the top surface is completely flat and there's no extrusions at either side.


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## artie

DBT85 said:


> Remember that wall cleats often end up being a very 2d solution.


I have to give in and ask.

What's a 2d solution?


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## DBT85

artie said:


> I have to give in and ask.
> 
> What's a 2d solution?


Lots of tools spread out on a wall with a "depth" of say 50mm. Compared to a cupboard or something that can occupy the same wall area but maybe be 400mm deep.

The issue with the latter is obviously that if you can't see the thing you want or it's behind a load of other stuff, it gets forgotten about or is a pain to access so you waste time trying to find another way rather than move 13 tins of finish you've not used in 2 years but kept just in case.

One neat solution to that is for a say 400mm deep unit that is actually 2 or 3 shallower units sandwiched together with hinges. If you want to get to the thing in the back top left corner you just open the front 2 leaves out of the way. 

Generally I can't abide normal cupboards. Be that in my kitchen or anywhere else!


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## artie

DBT85 said:


> Lots of tools spread out on a wall with a "depth" of say 50mm. Compared to a cupboard or something that can occupy the same wall area but maybe be 400mm deep.



Ahh, I see 2 dimensional vs 3 d
I was thinking 2d as tuppence or tuppence hapenny. Prolly an age thing.



DBT85 said:


> Generally I can't abide normal cupboards. Be that in my kitchen or anywhere else!


I have a lot of drawers in the Kitchen.


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## Iestynd

With regards to the light switches needing a nutral - Some do some dont. 

The ones from TLC Electrics (no affiliation), work on kinetic energy and are faultless. You wire in at the ceiling rose the receiver, and then have as many switches on the wall as you like! 
Or, if you don't have access to the ceiling rose/void, you can use this same setup but the receiver is in the switch. Every other switch is just a wireless slave to turn this switch on and off. 
Quinetic 1 Gang Wireless Switch & Built In Receiver - White 

Its not cheap stuff but it works brilliantly.


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## DBT85

Iestynd said:


> With regards to the light switches needing a nutral - Some do some dont.
> 
> The ones from TLC Electrics (no affiliation), work on kinetic energy and are faultless. You wire in at the ceiling rose the receiver, and then have as many switches on the wall as you like!
> Or, if you don't have access to the ceiling rose/void, you can use this same setup but the receiver is in the switch. Every other switch is just a wireless slave to turn this switch on and off.
> Quinetic 1 Gang Wireless Switch & Built In Receiver - White
> 
> Its not cheap stuff but it works brilliantly.


Those are only wireless switches, no? I meant "smart" switches, apologies.


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## Iestynd

My mistake, you did say smart switches... Yes, the ones i linked are just wirelessly linked togther. 
Sorry, I didn't see the point in "smart" switches within a garage space, its not like your going to have Alexa hooked up. 

"Alexa, fire up the table saw and dim the lights baby.... things are going to get interesting!!"


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## Jameshow

You could put a saw cupboard at one end and clamps at the other end? 

Cheers James


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## DBT85

Iestynd said:


> My mistake, you did say smart switches... Yes, the ones i linked are just wirelessly linked togther.
> Sorry, I didn't see the point in "smart" switches within a garage space, its not like your going to have Alexa hooked up.
> 
> "Alexa, fire up the table saw and dim the lights baby.... things are going to get interesting!!"


Ha you say that but I have had an echo in my workshop for a while now. Mostly for music but also for wifey to get hold of me when she's elsewhere the house.

Never used it for the extractor, though some do!


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## Iestynd

Oh my word! I've never thought about that. 
I'm sold. Imagine glueing up a board, and the mobile rings from management (the wife), you have to answer it, but you have to clean hands first... Alexa drop in... (just googled and watched youtube videos) would be a handsfree response - "sorry love, just finishing the glue up then i'll be in"
Twin that with, "Alexa turn on the table saw extractor" or "Alexa goodnight" - which i imagine could be programmed to turn all smart switches off!

Ha... i'm sold!


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## billw

"Alexa, plane these boards to 8mm please"


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## spb

Jameshow said:


> I'm going to put some shelves on mine to put my expanding plane collection on it.
> What is the best way to store planes on end. Or flat but with some scrap to keep the blade off the shelf??


I have mine vertical, soles against the wall behind the workbench. It means every one of them is in clear view, you can always see instantly which ones you haven't put away yet, the totes are in just the right position to grab and start using, and there's no shelf sticking out to overhang the bench - important for me as I'm in a confined space with only a 600mm deep workbench hard up against the wall.


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## mikej460

billw said:


> So plenty to get on with, I just have to somehow reverse my mum's dreadful habit of hoarding so I can get rid of the sheer volume of useless tat that she insists on keeping "just in case".



My resounding sympathy, I remember going into one of my Mum's sheds years ago only to find a 1970's turquoise loo stored in there 'in case someone might need it' as in 'Hi Doreen, you don't happen to have a 2nd hand turquoise loo I could have do you?'. She lives on her own in a little bungalow and until this year had two largish sheds full of decades of said useless tat until one of the shed roofs fell in and I had to sort and take most of the contents to the cycling centre. There was stuff in there that I remember from my childhood and I'm 64. Not important memorabilia you understand, just plastic bowls, pots and pans and the like. As the saying goes 'if it's not one thing it's your mother'...


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## mikej460

DBT85 said:


> Lots of tools spread out on a wall with a "depth" of say 50mm. Compared to a cupboard or something that can occupy the same wall area but maybe be 400mm deep.
> 
> The issue with the latter is obviously that if you can't see the thing you want or it's behind a load of other stuff, it gets forgotten about or is a pain to access so you waste time trying to find another way rather than move 13 tins of finish you've not used in 2 years but kept just in case.
> 
> One neat solution to that is for a say 400mm deep unit that is actually 2 or 3 shallower units sandwiched together with hinges. If you want to get to the thing in the back top left corner you just open the front 2 leaves out of the way.
> 
> Generally I can't abide normal cupboards. Be that in my kitchen or anywhere else!


I installed our old base and wall kitchen units in my garage workshop complete with long lengths of shiny worktop. I totally agree that you can just as easily lose stuff in a cupboard but also that worktops quickly become cluttered. This time I will use a drawer and cleat system. I just need to think of a better way of storing screws, nails and other small paraphernalia that can replace the current glass jar system!


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## DBT85

Iestynd said:


> Oh my word! I've never thought about that.
> I'm sold. Imagine glueing up a board, and the mobile rings from management (the wife), you have to answer it, but you have to clean hands first... Alexa drop in... (just googled and watched youtube videos) would be a handsfree response - "sorry love, just finishing the glue up then i'll be in"
> Twin that with, "Alexa turn on the table saw extractor" or "Alexa goodnight" - which i imagine could be programmed to turn all smart switches off!
> 
> Ha... i'm sold!


Enjoy!


billw said:


> "Alexa, plane these boards to 8mm please"


"And hold the snipe"


mikej460 said:


> I installed our old base and wall kitchen units in my garage workshop complete with long lengths of shiny worktop. I totally agree that you can just as easily lose stuff in a cupboard but also that worktops quickly become cluttered. This time I will use a drawer and cleat system. I just need to think of a better way of storing screws, nails and other small paraphernalia that can replace the current glass jar system!


I use a couple of these. Will add more. Can readily just knock together something to put them in so that you can pull out the one you need rather than stacking them all and forever needing the one on the bottom!








Sorta-Case Screw Case 420 x 335 x 65mm | Toolstation


20 removable plastic compartments




www.toolstation.com


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## billw

Another productive day full of lessons and Elastoplast. The lighting rig was completed, then came apart, then strengthened. It’s not wired in, and the blanks need cutting from some spare 3mm ply but here’s how it looks....








I suspect it’s going to be quite bright over the benches 
Also today I cut the 45 degree angle on 7 of the cleats, which means I can do a full height for a 1.8 metre length. Screws arriving Friday apparently.

Tomorrow I’m starting to make some of the cleat fixtures starting with ones that I’ve just borrowed designs from the net.

Realised I forgot to buy a sheet of 12mm ply to make drawers, but in all honesty I think I need to use all my 18mm stuff first to create some room.

I was quoted £125+VAT delivery for two sheets of Valchromat today. Laughed.


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## billw

Just an aside, got my measurements slightly out and the rig was 5mm shorter than I thought, luckily one side fitted at exactly 41.5mm and the other is now 42mm. Not bad for guesswork as I drilled the fixing holes in the wall! So it at least looks centred!


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## mikej460

On the subject of wireless switches, saw these at Lidl today - £12.99


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## mikej460

DBT85 said:


> Enjoy!
> 
> "And hold the snipe"
> 
> I use a couple of these. Will add more. Can readily just knock together something to put them in so that you can pull out the one you need rather than stacking them all and forever needing the one on the bottom!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorta-Case Screw Case 420 x 335 x 65mm | Toolstation
> 
> 
> 20 removable plastic compartments
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.toolstation.com


Yes that's just the job thanks


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## DBT85

Looking good Bill. You'll love all the light but you'll soon have to add more to the rest of the space as you'll want to see what you're doing everywhere!


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## billw

Lights before and after. I didn’t blow myself or the house up. Currently wired into a socket until I decide on what switch type to use.


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## Inspector

What are you going to put in the space above the lights? 

Pete


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## Cabinetman

Inspector said:


> What are you going to put in the space above the lights?
> 
> Pete


Sunglasses! I think it’s going to seem a little dark in the rest of the room, still, better bright than dimly lit.


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## billw

Inspector said:


> What are you going to put in the space above the lights?
> 
> Pete



Hadn’t got plans to use it at all, however it seems that I need to put some triangular brackets using the cleats to stop the sagging which will mean that it can be used if I board it over. I suspect it’ll end up being that place that I shove things that never get used


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## billw

Cabinetman said:


> Sunglasses! I think it’s going to seem a little dark in the rest of the room, still, better bright than dimly lit.



Yeah I did wonder about that but actually the rest of the garage gets enough light to not appear gloomy in comparison.


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## Inspector

Well if it were me I would put it right up to the ceiling. It will not diminish the intensity under it by much and more will spill further into the room. I would also bring the panels out about 150mm to 300mm so the light would spread a little more too. When first looking at it I thought dust collection pipes or something would be up there.

Pete


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## billw

Inspector said:


> Well if it were me I would put it right up to the ceiling. It will not diminish the intensity under it by much and more will spill further into the room. I would also bring the panels out about 150mm to 300mm so the light would spread a little more too. When first looking at it I thought dust collection pipes or something would be up there.
> 
> Pete



The hatch for the loft gets in the way of pulling them much further out. Also resting the frame on the top of the panels was the easiest way of getting the damned thing up there on my own, given the constraint of using a stepladder and this way I get access from above to replace panels if ever needed (probably not but knowing me....)

I suppose I could have hung all the panels individually off the ceiling but as for light going further - there's a car there, it doesn't need lighting up


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## DBT85

Just pop something uptthere that will take all the usual rubbish we all insist on keeping and not using for 20 years. At least lt it's out of the way!


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## billw

Right so more thoughts this evening about what units to make for the shop. My original plan had a 1800x800 static bench with router insert, a 1200x600 mobile flip-top unit, and a 1200x600 sharpening station unit. In addition I would need to make a unit for the bandsaw, which would be 600x600 although unlike the others it would be single use. That would total 3.17sq/m of workspace. 

The bench position means that at 800mm it would block a bit too much of the doorway, something I originally just ignored. Also as a static unit it does limit me from moving things around in future, and there's no downside to using castors. FInally with it up against the wall at present, it would make the router part of the table only have a 250mm run in, which might be OK but might not.

Revised plans: -
1. Main bench down to 1200x600, no router.
2. Router table of 600x600 made separately, but will lock onto the main bench, meaning the full bench will be 1800x600 for the most part.
3. Both units will be mobile.

Also for the other units: -

1. I'll need to house one of the units further down the garage otherwise it blocks the car door from opening, and just move it closer if necessary. This will be the one with the 
2. The second unit will sit just down the wall from the bench, and I'll make a joining unit that can house a mitre saw.

There's a small loss in worksurface available, but I'm pretty sure it won't be an issue.

Whilst waiting for my screws to arrive to do the cleats, I'll fire up SketchUp and get to work.


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## Doug B

Don’t know how much you’ll be using your router table Bill, after building quite a big one I found I didn’t use it that much so made a much smaller one that sits under my main bench most of the time & when in use sits on top of the bench held in the vice. It certainly freed up a lot of space for me.


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## billw

Doug B said:


> Don’t know how much you’ll be using your router table Bill, after building quite a big one I found I didn’t use it that much so made a much smaller one that sits under my main bench most of the time & when in use sits on top of the bench held in the vice. It certainly freed up a lot of space for me.



Yup, this is why it'll essentially be a flat worksurface that I attach the fences to when required - it'll basically just look like an extension to the bench most of the time. I've been trying to come up with ways to keep my surfaces as clutter free as possible.


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## DBT85

Wheels are always nice but evne my non wheeled one can move around easily enough without them. It does help that its a smooth floor mind!



billw said:


> I've been trying to come up with ways to keep my surfaces as clutter free as possible.



When you work that out you can make millions


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## Lons

I think having Alexa in the workshop runs the risk of waking up one morning with a headache, especially if you talk in your sleep.


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## billw

Lons said:


> I think having Alexa in the workshop runs the risk of waking up one morning with a headache, especially if you talk in your sleep.



I'm curious as to how it works when extraction is on...

"Alexa turn extraction off."
"Alexa. Turn. The. Extraction. Off"
"ALEXA WILL YOU JUST TURN THE BLOODY EXTRACTION OFF"
"I'll just do it myself then."
*click*


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## Inspector

Alexa call me an ambulance!!!! Oh I'm sorry. Siri, call me an ambulance...please!!!!

Pete


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## DBT85

[
[/QUOTE]


billw said:


> I'm curious as to how it works when extraction is on...
> 
> "Alexa turn extraction off."
> "Alexa. Turn. The. Extraction. Off"
> "ALEXA WILL YOU JUST TURN THE BLOODY EXTRACTION OFF"
> "I'll just do it myself then."
> *click*


I tried yesterday with my 2kw camvac type. Turned it on OK but couldn't hear me to turn it off. Might depend on the vac being used.


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## gmgmgm

DBT85 said:


> I tried yesterday with my 2kw camvac type. Turned it on OK but couldn't hear me to turn it off. Might depend on the vac being used.


My Alexa (little Echo Dot, and a few years old) is behind me; the saws and extractor are in front of me. Normally it hears me surprisingly well, or else a good bellow sorts it out.

If you have smart switches like these then there is a little on/off button on the side which can be used if Alexa doesn't hear: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TECKIN-Soc...1&keywords=smart+switch&qid=1605785474&sr=8-7

I also have the Echo Dot mounted vertically on the wall, which may help her hearing: https://www.amazon.co.uk/eBoot-Hold...eywords=echo+dot+mount&qid=1605785547&sr=8-14 (lots of variations on the theme available)

Having Alexa look after dust extraction is a game changer! (And then handle lighting...)


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## billw

OK I have never quite got into the whole home automation thing so I sort of understand the concept but I haven't the slightest clue how to achieve it. I like the idea of Home Kit so I can run everything off my iPhone, but I suppose all the alternatives have apps that work as well?

Essentially I'd like, in the workshop, to be able to control the light panel, a separate bench level lamp (not sure if I'll wire that into lighting or socket circuit yet) and the extraction. Any pointers for the things I need to buy? I don't have anything at all right now, in fact my wifi doesn't reach the shop so I need to get an extender sorted out.


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## gmgmgm

billw said:


> OK I have never quite got into the whole home automation thing so I sort of understand the concept but I haven't the slightest clue how to achieve it. I like the idea of Home Kit so I can run everything off my iPhone, but I suppose all the alternatives have apps that work as well?
> 
> Essentially I'd like, in the workshop, to be able to control the light panel, a separate bench level lamp (not sure if I'll wire that into lighting or socket circuit yet) and the extraction. Any pointers for the things I need to buy? I don't have anything at all right now, in fact my wifi doesn't reach the shop so I need to get an extender sorted out.


OK here goes - there are lots of different ways to achieve this, so I'll explain what I have, which works well.

1. you need "smart switches". The Amazon link in my post above has 4 for £30-40, which should be enough to get you started. You can get wire-in ones, but it's easier to just hide away a socket and use these plug-in devices. They need to say Tuya or Smart Life somewhere in the description. The link in my post does.
2. Wifi to cover all of the devices above. An extender would be ok.
3. you need a smartphone (Android/iphone) to install the "Smart Life" app - fairly easy to use, free. At this point you can control your switches from your phone from wherever you are e.g. remotely turn on a heater before going outside, or set a countdown to turn off dust extractor after 30 minutes of cleaning the air.
4. Then: adding an Alexa/echo device. Basic Echo dots are under £40 now. Radio, timer, intercom to the kitchen, tells jokes... handy to have. Need an Amazon account to go with it (free AFAIK). Now you can say "Alexa, turn on the bench light".

The building blocks aren't too complex, and nor is the setup. You don't need to dive into Homekits/hue at this point.


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## DBT85

gmgmgm said:


> My Alexa (little Echo Dot, and a few years old) is behind me; the saws and extractor are in front of me. Normally it hears me surprisingly well, or else a good bellow sorts it out.
> 
> If you have smart switches like these then there is a little on/off button on the side which can be used if Alexa doesn't hear: TECKIN Smart Plug 13A WiFi Smart Socket Works with Alexa Echo Google Home, Timing Function Remote Control No Hub Required 4 Pack: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
> 
> I also have the Echo Dot mounted vertically on the wall, which may help her hearing: Solid Metal Wall Mount Stand Holder Stand Bracket for All-New Echo Dot 2nd Generation (Black 1): Amazon.co.uk: Kindle Store (lots of variations on the theme available)
> 
> Having Alexa look after dust extraction is a game changer! (And then handle lighting...)


Yes I have basically the same plugs but from a different brand





Smart Plug Mini Outlet, Aoycocr WiFi Socket Work with Alexa, Echo, Google Home, Timer Plug Socket WiFi Plug, Wireless Remote Control Alexa Plugs, 13A, No Hub Required, 2.4Ghz Only, 4 Pack: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools


Smart Plug Mini Outlet, Aoycocr WiFi Socket Work with Alexa, Echo, Google Home, Timer Plug Socket WiFi Plug, Wireless Remote Control Alexa Plugs, 13A, No Hub Required, 2.4Ghz Only, 4 Pack: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools



www.amazon.co.uk





I did end up using the button to turn it off as its still easier to reach than the vac itself. If the extraction was at the other end of the workshop or (one day) in a workshop annexe then the problem would go away. It's handy being able to turn it on with a shout even with a mask on though.

The other nice use for the smart switches and bulbs around the home is that you can set certain things to happen all at once or at a certain time. So you want you outside xmas lights to come on 30 mins before sunset and off at midnight? Easy to set up. Want a hallway bulb on every night from the kids bedtime till early morning? again easy to do. Want to turn off an entire room with one command? Just say goodnight and off they all pop.

The ones I have (and I'm guessing most others) also monitor power draw so if you're interested you can see that your entire house covered in xmas LEDs costs less to run that one old xmas decoration in the window that still uses old bulbs!

We basically use ours only for playing music and turning a few lamps and bulbs on or off. It's not quite Star Trek yet!


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## Terrytpot

DBT85 said:


> Yes I have basically the same plugs but from a different brand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smart Plug Mini Outlet, Aoycocr WiFi Socket Work with Alexa, Echo, Google Home, Timer Plug Socket WiFi Plug, Wireless Remote Control Alexa Plugs, 13A, No Hub Required, 2.4Ghz Only, 4 Pack: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
> 
> 
> Smart Plug Mini Outlet, Aoycocr WiFi Socket Work with Alexa, Echo, Google Home, Timer Plug Socket WiFi Plug, Wireless Remote Control Alexa Plugs, 13A, No Hub Required, 2.4Ghz Only, 4 Pack: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.co.uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did end up using the button to turn it off as its still easier to reach than the vac itself. If the extraction was at the other end of the workshop or (one day) in a workshop annexe then the problem would go away. It's handy being able to turn it on with a shout even with a mask on though.
> 
> The other nice use for the smart switches and bulbs around the home is that you can set certain things to happen all at once or at a certain time. So you want you outside xmas lights to come on 30 mins before sunset and off at midnight? Easy to set up. Want a hallway bulb on every night from the kids bedtime till early morning? again easy to do. Want to turn off an entire room with one command? Just say goodnight and off they all pop.
> 
> The ones I have (and I'm guessing most others) also monitor power draw so if you're interested you can see that your entire house covered in xmas LEDs costs less to run that one old xmas decoration in the window that still uses old bulbs!
> 
> We basically use ours only for playing music and turning a few lamps and bulbs on or off. It's not quite Star Trek yet!


Similar here although we tested “drop in” yesterday when we had to nip out to see how frantic our new puppy would get...mom’s soothing tones soon settled her down (even though we were only hiding in the garden it wasn’t to her knowledge)


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## jcassidy

Automation is going to be huge in a few years. You are not limited to voice activation. You can set up a sensor so that when you stand in front of your tablesaw, the extractor comes on, activate task lights when you sit at your workbench, etc etc. Set up an emergency power cut. You can set up an air quality sensor and turn on extraction at a certain threshold. Any savvy 16 year old can program both the Amazon and Google devices with new 'skills', or automated responses. 
Unfortunately as an IT guy, I trust neither of those companies so no automation for me, until you can get one that doesn't report back to the mother ship!


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## billw

So a little progress made over the past few days, my PS5 arrived on Thursday and is proving to be a slight distraction from all things timber.

The first set of cleats are now up. I've cut the two blanks for the light panel and I'm currently glueing them up slowly using the cut-offs from the cleats to hold the panels in place, no point wasting wood! Designs for three cabinets now done, I think I've got the ply to do all of them, although I haven't got round to sourcing the Valchromat from somewhere that doesn't charge a huge delivery fee.

Over the weekend I'll get the next set of cleats up, they're just needing cutting to length and have the screw holes put in them so I reckon an hour and a half and they'll all be up and ready to use. 

Anyway, here's the view: -


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## DBT85

You didn't get a box of Felix in palce of your PS5 then Bill? 

How many times have you now put a cleat in and gone "ahh, very satisfying"?


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## billw

DBT85 said:


> You didn't get a box of Felix in palce of your PS5 then Bill?


Haha I read about that this morning! The box corner had been torn open though so I guess someone might have considered half-inching it.


DBT85 said:


> How many times have you now put a cleat in and gone "ahh, very satisfying"?



It was very satisfying to do a really simple job and not make any mistakes! I've probably just cursed myself for doing the second set now....


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## billw

Finished the second set. Also added one of the blanks to the light panel. Trying to figure out the best way to stop it sagging, I think cables into the ceiling seem the best bet.

Next up: designing some of the clear fixtures on sketchup. That will help clear the floor a bit.


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## billw

As an aside, it was a total fluke but the electrical socket fitted absolutely mm perfect above one of the cleats.


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## Doug B

billw said:


> I think cables into the ceiling seem the best bet.


I’d take your cables back to the wall at around 45 degrees rather than up to the ceiling, that way if you’re turning a sheet of ply wood etc there’s less chance of hitting the cable with disastrous effects.


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## billw

Doug B said:


> I’d take your cables back to the wall at around 45 degrees rather than up to the ceiling, that way if you’re turning a sheet of ply wood etc there’s less chance of hitting the cable with disastrous effects.


Ah I meant those metal cables you can screw into fixings and the ceiling, not using the actual electrical cable!


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## Doug B

billw said:


> Ah I meant those metal cables you can screw into fixings and the ceiling, not using the actual electrical cable!


Yes I meant the fixing cables not the electrical cables, taking them back to the wall holds just as well as going up to the ceiling but get in the way less.


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## billw

So not much to report on things over the past few days. I've prepped a lot of the pieces of ply for my new bench, they're fractionally oversized and I'll just skim them through the bandsaw and sand them to get them to final size. I've currently got the saw set to 70mm and so I'm not going to do anything else until I've put every 70mm piece through it to ensure they're consistent - luckily this allows me to make the whole leg assembly as they're all that width.

Have realised how difficult it is to work on full sheets of ply, especially on the floor and having to prop them up with scraps so I can run the track saw over them. As I haven't got any Valchromat yet, I'm just going to temporarily fix a spare section of ply to the top so it's usable in the short term.

I've designed and marked out my drill bit cleat, need to drill a lot of holes in it and then assemble. Since I haven't got a lot of the bits yet I'm just going to have to drill the relevant holes in future, but that's no hardship I suppose. For things like flat bits I haven't checked to see if there's a standard shank on them all, which might make life easier.

I've started a project build for the bench so I'll update with some photos soon. I'm going to have to take it slowly since I don't have many clamps. With the amount of clutter I don't want to go adding to it until I've tidied things up a bit and found/made homes for my existing tools.


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## DBT85

Even dealing with full sheets in my workshop is a pain in the backside and I'm already trying to work out a better way! Cutting them is easy enough its just moving them from stored position on the cart I made to the bench.


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## NormanB

mikej460 said:


> I installed our old base and wall kitchen units in my garage workshop complete with long lengths of shiny worktop. I totally agree that you can just as easily lose stuff in a cupboard but also that worktops quickly become cluttered. This time I will use a drawer and cleat system. I just need to think of a better way of storing screws, nails and other small paraphernalia that can replace the current glass jar system!


Stanley FATMAX organiser - for organising screws, when on offer at Screwfix or Toolstation.


----------



## billw

So this has been quiet as I've been concentrating on the workbench, which is now nearly finished (although won't be completely finished for a while). Next up is making the ply sections of both my router table and flip-top unit.

I've made the grand total of 0 cleat accessories because the first one I tried was for drill bits and whilst the design was great, my attempts at drilling holes was horrendous and so I've ordered a guide to help me drill at the correct angle.

I've got designs ready to take hammers, saws, drill bits, driver bits, and I'm thinking about how to lay out the boards for measuring tools and marking tools. It's difficult because I keep buying new stuff.

I'm also wondering what to do about my plane collection, specifically the 45/55/78 planes. The other day I saw a beautifully made cutter holder and some nice boxes for the planes themselves, so I think I might go down that route rather than have them use up space on the wall.


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## DBT85

I've got forstner bits on mine, but not regular bits. As for everything else, KISS.

Those nice incra knockoff T rules I got? A bit of ply with 2 kerfs cut in it and they slot in side on. Minimal wall space and fast to make.


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## billw

DBT85 said:


> I've got forstner bits on mine, but not regular bits. As for everything else, KISS.
> 
> Those nice incra knockoff T rules I got? A bit of ply with 2 kerfs cut in it and they slot in side on. Minimal wall space and fast to make.



Yup I've just been knocking up a few things using scrap and making them as easy as possible. The wall's currently looking this like...






I'm in NO danger of running out of space any time in the next decade.


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## billw

Just thought I'd post a today picture. Two new workbenches built, just need some finish applied. Materials for one more are here but I wanted to clear up everything else first to make room to build it. That will house my thicknesser in a flip-top design.

The workshop though is starting to feel a bit more like somewhere I can functionally work rather than a chaotic mess in the corner of the garage.


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## DBT85

Looking great with the two together Bill. When I've finished making this utility room pair of cabinets I really need to get a table of some kind done. Its horrible having to route some things knowing that a table would make life easier.


----------

