# my DX5000 dust extraction system (with revised section)



## head clansman (16 Apr 2010)

Hi all

This is my extraction system started last yr, now just about finished all but for crossing the t.s and dotting the I.s

I wanted to get the best from the system, I didn’t want to spend a heap of money and time fitting all this equipment and then not to be able get the best from it , I first spent a heap of time planning where machines and pipe work would go then slowly a plan came together, first I wanted as much suck as possible so decided to keep pipe runs to a minimum , but with each machine requiring a piped run to the blast chamber at first it was a nightmare I didn’t want all those pipe running over head like a spiders web going off at all different angle and all leading to one blast chamber that you see in so many workshops I decided on one hard pipe feeding all machine , which in turn had to feed the two system that I had decided on, it would also mean a long length of pipe connecting all machine possible running in all direction, this I didn’t like either.

The system incorporates two sizes of pipe work.

50mm 100mm for machinery. 

50mm for light dust for hoovering & hand held power tools to cope with MDF dust, hence why I decided to design my own system in the first place. 
This bought about my final plan to keep hard pipe work to a bare minimum I decide to split the workshop down the length with machinery on one side and working area on the other this gave me what I wanted the shortest possible hard pipe run of 1.9m including the blast chamber with an air/debris lift of 800mm to the inlet port on the extractor.

In the blast chamber there are three blast gates, the blast chamber is 600mm long from the left black blast gates to the right steel blast gate and there is one 50mm blast gate connected via the 50mm pipe work which is 300mm above the 100mm hard pipe work , plus one 50mm Hoover point . 

I also designed it for a minimum lift for all wood debris & dust hence why I didn’t want to go overhead unless I really had to , then only if it was to be lifting dust , so decided to drop as much pipe work to within(600mm) from the floor level . (Minimum lift).

After I got to this stage I could not find a blast gate to fit the 50mm pipe work So I made the blast gates which are a good starting point for this thread.

50MM PVC BLAST GATES

All the 50mm blast gate were made from PVC piping which all came from a company who sells a product called FloPlast here in Weymouth www.floplast.co.uk/ on the trading estate which I’m sure many of you can obtain if you so wish . The blast gates are made from two straight couplings, two short length of pipe, and some off cut of 3/8” plywood left over from when I constructed my workshop, the short lengths of pipe are first glued into one end of both couplings and then the coupling glue into the suction hole in the ply wood which are shown as follows







Above showing short length of pipe work before gluing






Showing suction hole 






Showing glue bottle and hand grips to be glued 






The dark areas are wet glue before hand grips were glue 






This last photo here shows a double hand grip glued , but that was changed , I didn’t like it so I cut off the outer two at either end, all other were then made with only one hand grip either end. 

****************************************************************
This is the revised section that I missed out during the original post.

Shown here is how I assembled the blast gates .
















Metal strip shown on edge of a completed blast gate so it can be fixed to wall and secure pipe work in position .





These two pics here show the blast gates in the vertical position closed and opened , just kept simple with a length of cord and a screw,
(just for you rob (woodbloke)) 









END OF THE REVISED SECTION 
****************************************************************


These shots are showing the assemble blast gates from various views.
















That just about covers how I went about making these blast gates.

The 100mm blast gates I decided to buy only because I could not find 100mm straight couplers at the time , and partly because of so many other thing going on in my life at that time , but in hindsight I wish I had researched for them a little longer. I used 100mm black plastic ones from Axminster tools, which also can be purchased from just about any good merchants , these get blocked with saw dust in the corners and then the gate won’t close properly so you lose suction, three has broken all replaced with metal blast gates.

50mm & 100mm ducting.

As mentioned, the main hard pipe machine ducting run is a total of 1.9m including the blast chamber of 600mm, so let’s start from the chamber and inlet pipe to the extraction inlet pipe which is 1.4 mm above floor level.

The three photos show the entire length of hard pipe ducting run (left) 1.1m. (Middle) is the blast chamber 600mm width 800mm height. (below) the entire lengths of hard pipe ducting run 1.9m including blast chamber.












flexible pipework.

From the blast gates these run to all machines independently in 100mm flexi .

Circular saw.

I have the saw mounted to on a turntable so no matter what position I lock the turntable in the flexi remains connected at all times along with the overhead saw guard.






The first photo shows saw set at 90 degrees across the length of the workshop.






This photo shows the saw turned another 90degrees to the right still connected to the flexi pipe.

Planer

This again has a100mm pipe fitted permanently so I can easily change from overhead planing by simple opening the Planer beds and changing to thickness mode the flexi length is 2.5m 









I have stated that I split the workshop down the length with all machine to one side of the shop, not quite correct with the one exception of the band saw 100mm and 50 mm Hoover point which I had to go overhead with both pipe runs, this pipes can be seen rising vertical in the centre of the right hand photo of the ducting hard pipe.






50MM DUCTING 

I fitted this for the extraction of dust from all power tools i.e.: router sanders and of course a Hoover system so I could get rid of all portable Hoovers and dust bucket plus leads and flexing pipes everywhere, I found this company www.cvcdirect.co.uk and bought three Hoover socket and a seven meter hose which when I plug into two of the sockets I can reach all corners of the shop from both sides of the shop for cleaning dust , the third socket still to be fitted which will be used outside the shop but plumbed through the wall into existing pipe work , so on those warm sunny day when I get to work out side to work I can Hoover all the decks and keep them clean as well .






Showing pipe runs crossing the shop.






Showing Hoover point in lower section of photo where the third Hoover point will go out through the shed wall.

EXTRACTION UNIT DX5000 TWIN MOTORS






shown here with blast chamber, the steel blast gate will be connect to the lathe on the right via the pipes that can be seen in the photo.

Bits and bobs

Still to complete, the placement of a couple more Roding eyes in the 50mm system and the fitting of one more Hoover point.

Conclusion

The only down side of the hole system is the amount of dust that collects under the saw , I stress here not because of lack of suck but the bad SIP design around the saw blade , which is being discussed here at the moment on this very forum , wish they would hurry up and conclude all the design changes they keep coming up with , I’m following that thread with interest.






Well guys & girls hope you have enjoyed and it may be of help to someone out there, I know I enjoyed putting it all together, it’s taken a long time and a lot of money but well worth the effort it’s now finally has come together.
Hmm now what do I do now, ah yes complete my infill planes, my tool cabinet, and then ah yes, start my new bench. hc


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## matt (16 Apr 2010)

Cheers, Martin (not least for the link to the vacuum cleaner supplies site!).

I had similar grand plans but, for the time being, I'm sticking to moving a hose between machines / an adaptor for smaller diameter hose. Once I'm satisfied I've got it right then I might create a more permanent set up.

Any chance of a close up of the vacuum cleaner outlets and hose ends (or link directly to the parts on the site you linked to)?

Many thanks.

Matt


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## head clansman (16 Apr 2010)

hi matt 

yes i can do some pics i don't have any at the mo on the comp but I'll do you some tomorrow if thats not a problem for you . hc


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## head clansman (17 Apr 2010)

Hi matt 

As promised , some pics of the parts you wanted to see ,





You will need the pipe shown on the (right) which is glued into the holder pipe (centre) wich in turn is glued into the white 50mm ducting pipe






length of hose with some brushes 






with face plate fitted , it just a tight push in with screw hole if needed






face plate fitted to hose connection just a push fit remove face plate to back holder and throw away 






first hoover point fitted into 50mm ducting run 






in this pic it shows two brass electric 12v point so if you want to connect it up , it will switch on motor of hoover these were design for when you plug in hose to socket .







and finally hose plugged in . Hope this of some help to you .


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## Mike.C (17 Apr 2010)

head clansman":1etdlw2p said:


> Hi all
> 
> This is my extraction system started last yr, now just about finished all but for crossing the t.s and dotting the I.s
> 
> ...



Boy Martin I wished I had you around here =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> As I said before I have spent a hell of a lot of money on my system, and I am far from happy with it. But hopefully the idea of splitting the system in two and cutting my runs down should see it work better.

What 100mm blast gates did you buy?, because to go along with the spiral pipe work I have the metal ones, and after looking at your 50mm gates I am positive that If I could get 100mm plastic pipe, your design would work a hell of a lot better.

If I am to rip out all of my pipe work and shorten the runs etc, will I be able to make a blast chamber out of metal sprial ducting?

As for the dust collecting under your saw this has been going on for years and SIP's answer in the 12" model was to put a door in so that it is eaier to clean. I am sure that if they sat down and put their brains in gear they could come up with a better design. And if your reading this SIP make sure you sell a kit that owners of older saws can buy and fit.

Many thanks for taking the time to show us your system.

Cheers

Mike


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## head clansman (17 Apr 2010)

hi mike 

Now you know what a blast gate is :wink: thanks for the great comments,   .

originally I just used the plastic one's form axminster catalogue which turned out to be useless no disrespect to axminster intended there , there also sold at any tool merchants as well then when these broke i replaced them with 100mm metal ones from axminster, which when fitted to the internal bore of the ducting run is very slack so just wrapped around it duct tape to make up the difference until they fitted snugly.

I Think the 100mm blast gates could be made the same as the 50mm blast gates but could be quite expensive mind, but they would certainly work very effectively and be much better than the plastic or metel one's , you need to buy two straight coupler for each blast gate plus a length of pipe and chop off length to suite, I'm not sure if it's all shown on there web site , take a look and see if not let me know and I'll send you an e mail with a scan of the page, if you need to know any more just let me know. I'll do my best to answer any question for you . hc :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Mike.C (17 Apr 2010)

head clansman":60ejp2bz said:


> hi mike
> 
> Now you know what a blast gate is :wink: thanks for the great comments,   .
> 
> ...



Hi Martin, your welcome mate.

I don't think I have explained myself properly, because it's the blast chamber (not a blast gate) that I am still unsure about. I cannot get my head around it. I can see the length of pipe work, but what is a blast chamber and what exactly does it do? 
If I am to rip out all of my pipe work and shorten the runs etc, will I be able to make a blast chamber out of metal spiral ducting, or would I be better off buying plastic like yours?

Can't you just take a busmans holiday and come up here and do mine :lol: :lol: 

Cheers

Mike


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## head clansman (17 Apr 2010)

hi mike 

the missus say yes to the busman holiday what part of scotland are you in :?: 

this is the blast chamber ,






Ok from the left hand side you have the black plastic blast gate on the right there is a metal blast gate pointing downwards and in the middle you have one 50mm blast gate rising upwards and alongside that a square hoover point, ok so far .

now if i close all of the three of the blast gate, because the hoover point is always closed unless i connect the hose there will be one almighty big bang as the plastic bag splits from the suction of the extractor which we don't want to happened :roll: , why has this happened because there is no outlet blast gate open.

If i open only the black plastic blast gate on the left of the chamber it now can suck from any one of the machine connect past that point BUT only if i open it's INDIVIDUAL machines blast gate as well ,in this case i have connected past the left hand chamber gate is a floor pan collection point, the sip saw and the sanding machine all have there own blast gate, it can only suck from that machine as BOTH other blast chamber gates are closed, plus all other gates as well , if i close the last machine i used and NOW close the left hand blast chamber gate. Then if I open the RIGHT hand blast gate I can only suck from what is connected to that blast gate as in THIS CASE in my workshop it will be my lathe, now WHEN I close BOTH left and right hand blastgates and open the 50m blast gate i have that will then shut off the 100mm side of the system and i am now only able to use the 50mm side for hoover and power tools etc .hc :wink: :lol: :lol: hope that helps

PS Mike doing it this way you get to give the full suck to which ever machine you useing at the time your NOT sucking into the lengths of pipe work leading to other machine blast gates as well as the one your operating . the blast chamber controls the direction you want to suck from through which every blast gate you open or shut and through which every size system you choose to use.


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## Mike.C (17 Apr 2010)

head clansman":30am7yc2 said:


> hi mike
> 
> the missus say yes to the busman holiday what part of scotland are you in :?:
> 
> ...



Hi Martin, Sorry mate but why are you telling me all this :?: Has someone asked you what a blast chamber is :?: , because I have used one in my system for years :^o :^o and you have got to be a right dummy not to know what it is for 

Seriously thank you for the explanation. Now that you have told me, it is so obvious that I feel highly embarrassed that I did not see it in the first place, but I was thinking along the lines of a pipe that acted something like a cyclone chamber :roll: 

I think the whole problem with my system is the long runs. Even if I am using a machine near to the extractors and have all the blast gates shut, they are still trying to suck from the rest of the ducking running down the shop :roll: 

The only trouble is that as I use a sliding table the table saw has to stay in the centre of the workshop. But if I was to set up the blast chamber along one wall, say around 13' of the 26' and split the machines into two 100mm sections, do you think that will work?
As well as the table saw I have permanently set in place a bobbin sander, bandsaw, mortiser, router table, dovetail jig, planer/thicknesser (just used as a thicknesser), a Jet planer, a SCMS, and a big drum sander will be joining these soon. Do you think that I will be able to shorten the runs enough and still have all these in a spilt system?

I am using a Camvac GV386 2200w twin motored extractor who's specs are given in litres 108l/sec (222cfm), an Elektra Beckum SPA 1100 (spec 842 hm3/wy), and a Scheppach HA 2600 (1000 hm3, 1 sec) with a fine filter. I have no idea what these specs mean, or even if they are the figures I should be looking at (can you explain?) But would you sell them all and get one machine to run the lot, just as you have, or could I use them in a spilt system. Would they be powerful enough to use one each side, and the Camvac fitted in somewhere between the two?
As I understand it the Camvac is a hplv machine and the other two are hvlp chip extractors.

Also I note that you have connected your machines to the blast chamber with long length's of flexable pipes. What is the dufference between these and solid or non flexable pipes?

Sorry to high jack your thread mate but you know what you are doing and certainly understand it all.

Cheers

Mike


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## head clansman (17 Apr 2010)

hi mike

don't worry about hi jacking the thread , hmm three extractors and it not working properbly, problems.

mike i think this is one of your main problem move the blast gate to the end of pipe work nearest to where you place the blast chamber so they shut off the length of pipes to what ever machinery is not being used. 



> I think the whole problem with my system is the long runs. Even if I am using a machine near to the extractors and have all the blast gates shut, they are still trying to suck from the rest of the ducking running down the shop



placing the blast chamber half way down the shop is another good idea, you can split and run off in two or more direction (as i have done) depending on the size of blast chamber (mine 600mm by 600mm with a lift of 800mm) you want just as long as when your using one machine shut all other blast gates on the blast chamber so as i mentioned earlier your only sucking from one machine at a time over the shortest possible length . Remember keep those pipe runs as short as possible draw a sketch of the workshop and move machine about till you can get the shortest possible runs . put some machine on wheels to move about whilst still connected. 

the only other thing i would do in your shop as you have more machines than i do ,is the heavier the dust/debris that comes from them the shorter the run lighter dust over the longer runs . see if you can arrange it so it all goes to one extractor . After all your a one man band like mostof us you can only use one machine at a time so why try and suck dust from somewhere if your not using it :?: three extractors hmm not for me but if all else fails. :lol: hc 

three extractors hmm not for me but if all else fails.


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## matt (17 Apr 2010)

I can't quite get my head round how you're using three extractors on one ducted system, Mike? The reason I'm trying to get my head round it is I'm wondering whether somehow, or other, they are working against each other? Just a thought.

HC - Thanks for the additional pics. I like that idea a lot! I have my TS and Bandsaw on either side of the garage just over half way down. The DX5000 is behind them so I can simply move the pipe from one to the other at the rear. The area where I will be using smaller tools is in front of the TS and Bandsaw so I plan to run a 100mm pipe from behind the TS and Bandsaw reducing down to 50mm and terminating in one of your outlets to connect a smaller hose to. That way I simply plug the extractor in to one of three 100mm ports and I've got the whole shop covered (the lathe is behind the TS and Bandsaw too so I can use it directly over the lathe).


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## head clansman (17 Apr 2010)

hi mike 

i missed your comment at the end about the (long) lengths of flexi pipe it used because of the switching to the over and under on the planer which is only 2.5m long and on the saw because it's on a turntable with a length of flexi of 2m all machines stay connected at all times the other to one goes to the sander which is 1.5m and the other one to the lathe which will be about 1.2 maybe . so the longest 100mm run in total length (planer) including every thing up to the inlet port is about 4. 5m, shortest run (lathe) 2.0m . the other to flexi lengths vary between these two measurements. hc


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## head clansman (17 Apr 2010)

hi matt 

glad you liked it ,your very welcome, hope it works out for you , post some pics when it happens . hc


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## Mike.C (17 Apr 2010)

head clansman":19x4dcyc said:


> hi mike
> 
> don't worry about hi jacking the thread , hmm three extractors and it not working properbly, problems.
> 
> ...



Hi Martin,

Yes 3 extractors, they came my way one at a time, and so as I already had them I saw no reason to use them, thinking the more suck the better. How wrong could I be :roll: 

Matt wrote;



> I can't quite get my head round how you're using three extractors on one ducted system, Mike? The reason I'm trying to get my head round it is I'm wondering whether somehow, or other, they are working against each other? Just a thought.



Hi Matt, Someone else said this, and I think along with too long a length of ducting you have hit the nail on the head.

Can either of you comment on the so called power figures of the above extractors, and what I should be looking for?

Thanks to you both.

Oh by the way Martin tell the Mrs that we live in Fraserburgh :lol: 

Cheers

Mike


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## Escudo (17 Apr 2010)

Hello Martin,

Thanks for taking the time to post details and pictures of your impressive dust extraction system. Very informative in deed and much food for thought.

Well done Martin.

All the best, Tony.


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## woodbloke (18 Apr 2010)

Martin - thanks for the detailed info on your system...indeed food for thought. I'm intrigued by the wooden blast gates...why are the plastic ones from Axminster NFU? Your wooden ones certainly look easy enough to make.

Which is the best way to mount them, ie is the wooden gate with the hole in it vertical or horizontal? - Rob


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## head clansman (18 Apr 2010)

hi mike

Mike i wish i could tell you what it all means but I'm afraid i cannot it's all double dutch to me, :lol: (no pun intended there to our dutch members) all those figure didn't mean anything to me at all . I read a lot from this forum at the time I think it was Rod (woodbloke) at that time who pointed me in the right direction extraction wise with camvacs twin motors. 

I happened to go to yandle a wee while later while i was till mulling things over as you do, they had one ex display unit the DX5000 at a huge discount, After a short demo, I took a chance and bought it.



> Can either of you comment on the so called power figures of the above extractors, and what I should be looking for?




Before i started fitting it all I experimented with It , I attached temporary different lengths of pipe , different dia pipes switching from one to the other to see the difference in the power of the suction, this proved invaluable one of the reason why i fitted two size pipes shorter length larger diameter for heavier dust/debris longer length smaller diameter for dust, don't mix the two diameter IMHO keep it so you can switch between both system seperate . hc


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## Mike.C (18 Apr 2010)

head clansman":8d99qp35 said:


> hi mike
> 
> Mike i wish i could tell you what it all means but I'm afraid i cannot it's all double dutch to me, :lol: (no pun intended there to our dutch members) all those figure didn't mean anything to me at all . I read a lot from this forum at the time I think it was Rod (woodbloke) at that time who pointed me in the right direction extraction wise with camvacs twin motors.
> 
> ...



No problem Martin, If the figures are anything like A/V manufacturers where they give you the maximum power a set of speakers will take (eg a 1000W), when in the real world the figures are more like 300W RMS, then they probably mean nothing anyway.

I think what I am going to do is set up a temporary spilt system and see how each of the extractors preform with the machines and length of ducting, and take it from there. .

Cheers

Mike


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## head clansman (18 Apr 2010)

hi mike 

just a thought out of interest post your finding with plenty of pics . hc

ps my dx5000 if your interested had twin 1000w each motor if thats of any help


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## Mike.C (18 Apr 2010)

Thanks Martin,

Cheers

Mike


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## DaveL (18 Apr 2010)

woodbloke":2fg3t1gb said:


> Martin - thanks for the detailed info on your system...indeed food for thought. I'm intrigued by the wooden blast gates...why are the plastic ones from Axminster NFU? Your wooden ones certainly look easy enough to make.


Rob,
I made some wooden gates, then bought a 'bargain' kit of dust collection bits, plastic blast gates included. I have used a couple and find the problem with them is dust collecting in the blind corners, this stops the gate sliding completely shut. Its a slow process so I didn't notice until the dust was well compacted. There is a way to fix it, just drill a small hole in each of the blind corners to allow the dust to get out, helped with a bit of bent wire if any build up starts to occur.


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## head clansman (18 Apr 2010)

hi rob 

sorry mate i missed your post entirely,



> Rob,
> I made some wooden gates, then bought a 'bargain' kit of dust collection bits, plastic blast gates included. I have used a couple and find the problem with them is dust collecting in the blind corners, this stops the gate sliding completely shut. Its a slow process so I didn't notice until the dust was well compacted. There is a way to fix it, just drill a small hole in each of the blind corners to allow the dust to get out, helped with a bit of bent wire if any build up starts to occur.



DaveL just about covered it here because the black plastic is so thin as you push the blast closed it pushes dust up into the corners which in turn builds up so the blast gate wont close properly leaving the the gate partly open so you lose suction else where then when you drill hole and try to hook out the dust they eventually break and come apart on the seams their basic rubbish the metal one even if the block in corners can be taken apart with six screws .

my blast gates can be fitted either way, when mine are in the vertical position , kept it simple drilled a hole through the gate slide, piece of cord and a dowel rod, so when it's shut it's in the down position, opened pulled up and hook on the dowel rod .

tomorrow I am going to make a revision to the post I missed out some pics of my blast gates being assemble which i feel are important to the contents of the entire post , so if interested stay tuned, just got in at the mo I'm knackered. hc  .

ps rob i post a pic on one in the vertical open position as well tomorrow


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## head clansman (19 Apr 2010)

hi rob 

as requested i included the pics of the vertical mounted ones in the revised section for you . hc


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## Mike.C (20 Apr 2010)

Hi Martin, Thanks for the updated blast gates. =D> Your quite a little genius aren't you, you sly old fox :wink: 

Cheers

Mike


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## head clansman (20 Apr 2010)

hi mike 

*MikeC Wrote *



> Thanks for the updated blast gates. Your quite a little genius aren't you, you sly old fox



Thanks for the nice comments, it nice to know it's being read and appreciated, At least I'm not wasting my time . 


Don't know about the old bit mate, :lol: :lol: genius would be very nice though :roll: :roll: , I but it down to the training of 45 yrs in the trade and I'm still learning. hc :wink: :lol: :lol:


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## woodbloke (20 Apr 2010)

HC - many thanks indeed...muddy waters are now sparkling! :lol: - Rob


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## head clansman (20 Apr 2010)

hi rob 

your very welcome, any time. hc


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## eoinsgaff (20 Apr 2010)

Hey there Martin, 

I was researching the use of plastic pipe in the past and a regular reply was that static would be a problem and so plastic pipe shouldn't be used. 

As a solution to this I was thinking about running a piece of exposed copper wire through the duct and earthing it some where. I'm not sure if thats useful and maybe some of the electrical experts are currently close to tears due to the likelyhood of burning the house down. However it might be worth a thought or two.

Another problem that was high lighted was the danger of the plastic pipe collapsing in on it self. From the pics I'm sure thats unlikely in your works. 

Regards

Eoin


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## head clansman (20 Apr 2010)

hi eoinsgaff



> Hey there Martin,
> 
> I was researching the use of plastic pipe in the past and a regular reply was that static would be a problem and so plastic pipe shouldn't be used.
> 
> ...



I take your point on a possible electric shock from the static from the plastic or a possible fire if dust is allowed to build up. 

If you have any (links) to the plastic pipes collapsing in on it self please post it here , Thats a new one on me :?: , I have never heard of it happening before . hc


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## eoinsgaff (20 Apr 2010)

Martin, 

I think the static was a fire risk but I'm open to correction on that. 

I can only imagine the collapsing pipe was a larger diameter and on industrial machine. It would be the leat of my worries at our scale. 

I'll try to dig up a few links. If I remember correctly it was on the Fine Wood Working forum. I'll have a look tonight.

Eoin


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## big soft moose (20 Apr 2010)

eoinsgaff":2iik5zhu said:


> Martin,
> 
> I think the static was a fire risk but I'm open to correction on that.
> 
> ...



the static was a spark - dust explosion risk , but imo its very low

if it worries you, you could run a copper wire through the system and earth it


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## head clansman (20 Apr 2010)

hi bsm

It's of no worry to me about the static side of things , nor is it of the pipe collapsing into it's self, i have never heard of plastic pipework doing this, if it has happened i would like to see pics of it, that was all, not only of interest to me i should imagine to other as well .hc


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## big soft moose (20 Apr 2010)

head clansman":3eznlj0r said:


> hi bsm
> 
> It's of no worry to me about the static side of things , nor is it of the pipe collapsing into it's self, i have never heard of plastic pipework doing this, if it has happened i would like to see pics of it, that was all, not only of interest to me i should imagine to other as well .hc



i supose in theory you could make any pipe - be it ceramic, plastic, or metal collapse if you closed all the blast gates and then gave the extractor full blast as you would be creating a vacuum inside the pipe - and none are meant to take this.

but why the heck would you - i cant see it being a problem in normal usage


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## matt (20 Apr 2010)

I reckon the bag would split before the pipe even started to creak.


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## big soft moose (20 Apr 2010)

matt":3sxfujdk said:


> I reckon the bag would split before the pipe even started to creak.



with a dx5000 you'd be right - but suposing you were runing a non bagged system like the oneida

its theoretically possble is all i'm saying

its not summat to worry about tho


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## Mike.C (20 Apr 2010)

eoinsgaff wrote:



> Martin,
> 
> I think the static was a fire risk but I'm open to correction on that.
> 
> ...



This has been brought up a number of times over the years, and it seems that no one has ever seen or heard of it happening. I seem to remember that there is/was a fireman member who said that he had never heard of it happening either.

Yet on the other hand Axminster sell earthing/grounding kits to connect to your ducting http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... =1&jump=48 I know because I bought one for my _*metal*_ pipes, and then I found out that it is only plastic ones that _*could*_ cause a fire     I even went as far as buying a 2 foot copper earth spike     What a dick head I felt/feel.
There are also some manufacturers that advertise their extractors as having a metal impeller to reduce the risk of fire.

So are we worrying needlessly because of manufacturer advertising and selling things like this, or is there a real risk of fire?

Cheers

Mike


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## head clansman (21 Apr 2010)

hi mike 

well i suppose a fire could and i do stress the point could start, from the spark caused by static electricity (if dust) is allowed to build up , with my limited knowledge of static is when you or me touch something we earth it, it usually only happens when we touch something like plastics, pvc, nylon or some simular materials. In my particular case, the blast gates are wood not plastic, so no static shock, no spark. 

As for the pipe work collapsing in on itself , as some one here mentioned also in my case as i already know leave the blast chamber gates closed and switch on the twin motors, in seconds one very big bang, split bag , so unless someone can show us the collapsed pipe work on system like this I certainly wont be worrying about either happening .

However have said that it always pays to air on the side of precaution so i think a trip to Axminster will be needed soon to take a closer look at their earthing system for plastics hc


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## eoinsgaff (21 Apr 2010)

Some links as promised:

http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine- ... nding-wire 

I think you need to be a member to access the above but the following link has been referred to on that forum:
http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm

As I said before, I'm not too bothered about the 'implosion' of my ducting. I really can't see that being likely unless a large dimeter pipe is used.

As for the fire risk, well, it looks rather improbable but every bodies set up has different conditions and it may be better for me to err on the side of caution. Any excuse for a trip to the shop I guess...

Eoin


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## head clansman (21 Apr 2010)

hi 

thanks for posting that hear , complement the rest of the post, it will make some interesting reading for all who wish to go that way , i'm on holiday in two weeks time i'll read that more in depth then and digest it better . hc


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