# Poolewood 2840



## kasandrich (20 Oct 2010)

Has anyone got any experience of the Poolewood 2840?

I know where there is one going and I was thinking about buying it.

Any information would be appreciated.


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## Blister (20 Oct 2010)

Yes , I had one , is yours the mechanical variable speed on electronic ?

They are heavy and quite solid , so you should be OK with it :wink:


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## CHJ (20 Oct 2010)

I have both Types, the old mechanical drive version and the later variable (3ph invertor) machine. 
The electronic is my user, it's still heavily built but more refined (castings are slimmer and tool rest banjos etc are slimmed down) than the Mechanical drive version. 
I would not choose the mechanical one over the later 3ph motor versions given the choice as the latter gives you a reversing capability and quieter drive chain.

But if you've got the room and the strength to handle the mechanical version it's a big heavy duty beast if available for the right price, the tubular bed bars are not up to the same rigidity standard as the bulky design of the head stock assembly, like that you would get with a cast bed, in either machine, but I find them adequate for anything I throw at it.

My Mechanical drive version is awaiting room in the shed to set it up as a dedicated large diameter Bowl/Platter machine. The parts between the two are not generally interchangable due to differing bar spacings and centre height. The Mechanical drive version has a very large (physical size) 6pole slow speed motor. If two people can lift the lathe head and motor to waist height with comfort then they are both somewhat stronger than me.

Oh, and one major consideration, if the machine you are looking at is offered with matching Chucks and faceplates take them, the Poolwood spindles are not a current standard, in fact the chuck registers vary between the earlier and later models of the 2840 so unless you have the means of making adaptors or spacers you may have difficulty getting a chuck to fit. The threads are 1-1/2" X 6TPI but the headstock casting clearance and chuck register collar differ from the current norm for 1-1/2" spindles.

See this OLD Axminster chart (TO2P) But this is not the whole story because the two machines I have are different.


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## kasandrich (20 Oct 2010)

The one which may be available is the older mechanical speed control.

I think it comes with a chuck.


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## cookie777 (20 Oct 2010)

I had the mechanical version a few years ago it was really noisy, converted it to electronic vs & it was much better, regards cookie


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## katellwood (20 Oct 2010)

Anyone who owns a Poolewood PM me your e-mail and I will send you an interesting PDF relating to the 28-40 lathe 

I also have the original handbook if anyone would like a copy


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## kasandrich (21 Oct 2010)

cookie777":3rfk8kcf said:


> I had the mechanical version a few years ago it was really noisy, converted it to electronic vs & it was much better, regards cookie



That sounds interesting, was it a full replacement 3 phase motor and Inverter etc?, was this a package from a supplier or something you put together yourself?


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## cookie777 (21 Oct 2010)

Hi Richard, I converted it with a package supplied by poolewood at that time. cookie


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## katellwood (22 Oct 2010)

Poolewood owners might find these useful (I apologise for the clarity)


*Mod Edit:* Sorry Katell, had to remove links to images of copyright material. Thanks for the thought. *CHJ*


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## kasandrich (22 Oct 2010)

Thanks for that, a very interesting write up .....I got to it before the mod!

although I am sure that a 20 year old article on an obsolete lathe nobody would be too interested in the copyright, but I guess the mod is just doing his job. ......although its an interesting legal aspect, if we only have a link to it here, surely it is the hosting site which is breaking copyright, and not the forum, the forum only points to a location?


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## katellwood (22 Oct 2010)

All 

Sorry about the copyright issue was unaware 

Richard

I have two of these lathes both mechanical ones however one came without bedbars. having read entries in this post two things I find interesting. both of mine accept graduate faceplates and chucks which I find readily available.

In addition dropping a vernier gauge on the existing bedbars they came out at 48.3mm which coincidentally is exactly the same as scaffold bars 

My ultimate intention is to utilise the spare bedbar end support from my spare lathe as a centre support for a extra long bed then use the spare banjo on the bed to use a twin shafted long toolrest bridged between both banjo's,, scaffold being used as the extra long bed (I'm also going to fill them with molten scrap lead to make them more rigid) 

When I carry this out I will share it with you all

I also have the original manual (not very good quality) which includes full breakdown pictures. I am happy to share this if anyone is interested.


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## CHJ (22 Oct 2010)

If those bed bars are anything like the length of the ones I have then it's certainly going to be some length at 3.5 mtrs if you use the whole length.

The spindle accommodating Graduate bits makes sense, and good to know.


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## Noel (22 Oct 2010)

kasandrich":3c0yjtdb said:


> Thanks for that, a very interesting write up .....I got to it before the mod!
> 
> although I am sure that a 20 year old article on an obsolete lathe nobody would be too interested in the copyright, but I guess the mod is just doing his job. ......although its an interesting legal aspect, if we only have a link to it here, surely it is the hosting site which is breaking copyright, and not the forum, the forum only points to a location?



Hi Richard, we've had many instances in the past where somebody has scanned and posted an article which has been subject to copyright. In order to protect the site from the more litigious editors and publishers it was decided not to allow copyrighted material to be published here. Legally speaking it is acceptable to publish an abstract, say 5% of a text, in order to support a discussion or statement but it's difficult to define exactly what is allowed and what isn't and most of us can imagine the expense incurred even entering into a discussion concerning legalities with a publishing house on the subject.

With regard to pointing to a hosting site, there really isn't much difference. The intent to breach copyright still exists and therefore we can't allow it.

So, in conclusion, no copyrighted material can be posted. I think you'll find most forums operate a similar policy.

PS - you're in luck, thanks to Chas taking some time and gaining permission.


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## CHJ (22 Oct 2010)

kasandrich":1r0c7r6v said:


> ....although I am sure that a 20 year old article on an obsolete lathe nobody would be too interested in the copyright, but I guess the mod is just doing his job. ......although its an interesting legal aspect, if we only have a link to it here, surely it is the hosting site which is breaking copyright, and not the forum, the forum only points to a location?



Edit: As Noel has explained above and I cross posted, Sorry, 

The forum can not in any way endorse the posting of copyright material without the Prior permission of the copyright owner. Turning a blind Eye or encouraging others to do the same via links is also not condoned.

However in this instance I have obtained permission for the images to be reposted.



Mike Lawrence @ myhobbystore.com":1r0c7r6v said:


> I think our view is that material of this age is of no longer of any commercial value to us, and so we would be happy for it to be shared.
> 
> Kind regards
> 
> Mike Lawrence






































































Edited to attach images due to lost PB links.


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## katellwood (22 Oct 2010)

I'm glad this can be shared for all 

However will bear this in mind for future posts


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## Baldric (12 Feb 2012)

katellwood":18u85xdd said:


> Anyone who owns a Poolewood PM me your e-mail and I will send you an interesting PDF relating to the 28-40 lathe
> 
> I also have the original handbook if anyone would like a copy


I know this is a very long shot, but I have just accuired a 28/40 mechanical drive
would you still have a PDF of the manual and the updated modification to electronic pullleeeese!  
I have just purchased this machine,and love it already,many thanks in advance, regards Baldric, 
new member,


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## katellwood (12 Feb 2012)

Hi 

The pdf is actually published on the previous page, 

re the manual will pdf it during the week and let you have a copy, sorry no details to turn into electronic apart from changing the motor to a 240/440 model and using an inverter to power 

Thanks


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## Baldric (13 Feb 2012)

Thanks for that , your a star! the pw 28/40 takes pride of place in my workshop,
it a beautiful piece of British engineering, now I must stop polishing it and start using it.
Bob


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## Happy amateur (13 Feb 2012)

Go to www.poolewood.co.uk and send Terry an email. I am sure he would be glad to advise

Fred


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## WorthingtonJR (18 Jan 2014)

katellwood":2hsbajrw said:


> Anyone who owns a Poolewood PM me your e-mail and I will send you an interesting PDF relating to the 28-40 lathe
> 
> I also have the original handbook if anyone would like a copy



Hi do you still have Handbook? Could I buy or get a coppy ? Regards John


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## davehutch (10 Nov 2015)

Hi All,
I have the Axminster Supalathe version with electronic speed control. The inverter keeps tripping out, does anybody know where I can get a circuit diagram please. Neither Axminster or Poolewood can help.

Thanks


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## NazNomad (10 Nov 2015)

Does the inverter trip out a RCD, or is it the actual inverter that is tripping?


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## CHJ (10 Nov 2015)

davehutch":1mm99zh0 said:


> Hi All,
> I have the Axminster Supalathe version with electronic speed control. The inverter keeps tripping out, does anybody know where I can get a circuit diagram please. Neither Axminster or Poolewood can help.
> 
> Thanks


Need more detailed information.

When does it trip?


1. When first switched on
2. When running freely
3. When running under load
4. After reasonable running time

Does headstock spindle turn freely when not powered up?
Can you switch it straight back on or do you have to wait for invertor to discharge and cool down with power removed before it will re-start?


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## davehutch (11 Nov 2015)

The inverter tripped more often when the machine was initially switched on. It would do this whether the machine / unit was hot or at first start of the day. Spindle runs freely and this happened when spindle was either just the bare thread or loaded with a piece. The inverter had to discharge before in would reset. 
However a short while ago there was a bang and one of the thyristors has somewhat parted company. A new unit is on order from Haydock Converters of Blackburn.

Many thanks however for your time and interest.
Rgds
Dave


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## CHJ (11 Nov 2015)

I would seriously get the motor checked out for short circuits between windings or to case.

The symptoms of invertor shutting down and wanting time to discharge/cool before restart smacks of current overload.

Don't want to do exactly the same with new invertor.


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## Aldenton (10 Dec 2020)

WorthingtonJR said:


> Hi do you still have Handbook? Could I buy or get a coppy ? Regards John


[email protected] could you please send me the pdf file thanks alan


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## Phil Pascoe (10 Dec 2020)

A couple more posts and you can message people - it's not a good idea to broadcast your email address, I'd delete it.
There are a few threads about them, I did one on a bearing change.

If you are thinking to get a chuck for it, Beaufort Inks have the rights to Versachuck and should have them before long - there is a backplate for them that fits the Poolewood.


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## Aldenton (11 Dec 2020)

Tailstock shaft keeps jamming it was ok until locking lever snapped and replaced it with new one also shaft turns when winding handle does something fit in jetway?


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## Aldenton (11 Dec 2020)

Aldenton said:


> Tailstock shaft keeps jamming it was ok until locking lever snapped and replaced it with new one also shaft turns when winding handle does something fit in jetway?


Sorry keyway


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## Mark Hancock (11 Dec 2020)

Aldenton said:


> Sorry keyway


Sounds like the replacement locking lever for the tailstock barrel/quill is not locating in the barrel/quill keyway. If that is the case reduce the end of the locking lever a little with a grinder until it fits in the keyway.


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## Phil Pascoe (11 Dec 2020)

They are notorious for clogging up, which doesn't help. Extend the quill and remove it. Take the retaining plates of the tailstock, take the screw out and give it a clean internally and externally. You need a circlip pliers to take the wheel off - I've not bothered putting the circlip back on mine. Before you reassemle, check that the end of the Bristol lever/bolt/whatever fits all the way up and down the keyway easily and is easily turned when engaged to full depth. Give the quill a light oil and insert it, you will feel the lever/lock engage in the keyway as you turn it. Screw the lead screw back, replace the wheel and you're done.
I found mine clogged up regular as clockwork when deep drilling, so left the circlip off - once in a while the wheel drops off but it doesn't matter. I saw no need to lock the quill - I've never known it slip - so I replaced the Bristol lever with a bolt and lock nut to stop its rotating. It's done up so the quill just moves freely end to end then locked.


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## Aldenton (13 Dec 2020)

Mark Hancock said:


> Sounds like the replacement locking lever for the tailstock barrel/quill is not locating in the barrel/quill keyway. If that is the case reduce the end of the locking lever a little with a grinder until it fits in the keyway.


Thanks 


Phil Pascoe said:


> They are notorious for clogging up, which doesn't help. Extend the quill and remove it. Take the retaining plates of the tailstock, take the screw out and give it a clean internally and externally. You need a circlip pliers to take the wheel off - I've not bothered putting the circlip back on mine. Before you reassemle, check that the end of the Bristol lever/bolt/whatever fits all the way up and down the keyway easily and is easily turned when engaged to full depth. Give the quill a light oil and insert it, you will feel the lever/lock engage in the keyway as you turn it. Screw the lead screw back, replace the wheel and you're done.
> I found mine clogged up regular as clockwork when deep drilling, so left the circlip off - once in a while the wheeel drops but it doesn't matter. I saw no need to lock the quill - I've never known it slip - so I replaced the Bristol lever with a bolt and lock nut to stop its rotating. It's done up so the quill just moves freely end to end then locked.


thanks


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## clogs (13 Dec 2020)

I bought my mechanical Poolewood lathe some 20 years ago'ish.....
after reading the above I'm not so worried now as I thought it was some cheapo machine....
it's now demoted to small work as the Wadkin RS is the go to machine...


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## brettlyk (17 Sep 2021)

I've not long scored my fathers Poolewood 28/40 (after finding out what make it was only today), and I am having issues getting it squared up. I may need to procure a MT2 to MT2 alignment piece. It spent the last 20 years in an open farm shed in country Queensland on a dirt floor. So it needs a little TLC.


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## Phil Pascoe (17 Sep 2021)

Put a large revolving centre into the tailstock, bring the tailstock up to the headstock and tighten it down. Then advance the tail centre into to the end of the spindle. You'll see quickly enough whether it's centred.


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## bob.pate30 (12 Dec 2022)

katellwood said:


> Anyone who owns a Poolewood PM me your e-mail and I will send you an interesting PDF relating to the 28-40 lathe
> 
> I also have the original handbook if anyone would like a copy


Hi, I have just purchased a 28-40 and would be really interested in any information you have. Bob


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## Phil Pascoe (12 Dec 2022)

Should you need bearings the numbers are -
Intermediate: 6010ZZ
Front: 30206
Rear: 30205

These are for the reeves drive model (I believe there is a fixed speed one).


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## bob.pate30 (12 Dec 2022)

Thank you very much Phil. Do you have and user information such as the levers on the headstock? Best wishes Bob


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## Phil Pascoe (12 Dec 2022)

Nothing really that isn't covered earlier in this thread. I did a thread on changing the bearings if you need it.


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