# Henry Taylor multi tip tool (hollowing)



## twosoc (18 Oct 2007)

Hi chaps I was bought the above mentioned tool for my birthday by the in-laws. What the hell do I do with it? I can't find any info on how to use it or what its main use is. Can I hollow out with it or is it specifically for finishing cuts? How do I hold it? I couldn't make it do a damn thing!
Please help as it looks a really nice tool and I would dearly like to use it to its full potential.

Cheers, Tim.


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## TEP (18 Oct 2007)

Hi *Tim*, it is basically a scraper. You can hollow using the pointed end after drilling a center hole to the depth you wish to hollow to. Personally I wouldn't do that because it can be a bit vicious, but it does come into its own when used as a shear scraper when finishing. Use the flat edge outside, and the curved inside. Use it as you would a normal scraper, edge trailing slightly.


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## twosoc (18 Oct 2007)

Cool thanks, I'll try to give that a go tomorrow. Hopefully I'll get it to do something, maybe it needs sharpening. :roll:


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## jpt (18 Oct 2007)

HI Tim

It sounds like the same as the Sorby multi tip hollowing tool.

If you go to Sorbys site http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/ then go to movie clips there are several films on how to use it.

john


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## Bodrighy (18 Oct 2007)

If it's one of these then I will vouch for it being viscious 

Also needs a strong grip or it twists like crazy.

Pete


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## jaymar (19 Oct 2007)

I too had trouble with this tool until I sharpened it as a scraper and used it as such. I found I could take quite big cuts and sheer scrape as well.


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## JackL (19 Oct 2007)

Mine sits in the tool rack slowly going rusty. This tool and arthritic hands are not good bedfellows!


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## Paul.J (19 Oct 2007)

Is this the reason why Sorby have the flat back one,to stop it twisting round. :? 
Paul.J.


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## Taffy Turner (19 Oct 2007)

Bodrighy":1ladxuxq said:


> If it's one of these then I will vouch for it being viscious
> 
> Also needs a strong grip or it twists like crazy.
> 
> Pete



Make sure that you have the rest back far enough so that the straight part of the tool is supported, not the cranked part. If you rest the cranked part of the tool on the toolrest, the distance from the support to the cutting edge means that you will never hold it, and the resulting catch is spectacular!! :shock: (DAMHIKT). (It's all to do with twisting moments and other boring engineering stuff).

I have one of these, and as long as used as described above it is fairly mild mannered - very handy for undercutting bowl rims and the like. Only take light cuts though!!!  

Regards

Gary


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## twosoc (19 Oct 2007)

its the straight one if it makes a difference. I got to use it today on the inside of an ash box, and well... Meh.. Its alright but I couldn't get it to do much. Is it best to sharpen them first or do these things come ready sharpened?


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## twosoc (19 Oct 2007)

Thanks jpt those videos were a great help. The trouble with professional videos is that they make everything look so easy. It flew through the wood like butter. I wonder if those extra tips would work with the one I have?


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## TEP (19 Oct 2007)

Hi *Tim*, I always sharpen any new turning tool I buy, either to re-profile the end or just to make sure there is a sharp edge. My assumption is these guys are toolmakers, not woodturners, so they don't really know what we want.

As to using the extra R Sorby tips from their hollowing tool. You get two mounting screws with it, short for the scraper head, and long for mounting the cutting tips using a thick washer. The cutting tips are just HSS 1/4" dia. with one half ground away. 

You can buy 1/4" Cobalt HSS from Chronos and grind up your own tips. Just take it easy grinding them. Then you need to make a 1/4" thick washer with a 1/8" deep x 1/4"dia. groove just clear of the centre mounting hole and get a longer bolt to hold it all together. You may have to file the flat on your tool back a bit if the washer fouls the ramp part.

Hope you can understand all that, I'm confusing myself now. #-o


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## duncanh (20 Oct 2007)

Tim - when it comes to sharpening don't do it with a grinder as you normally would a scraper. This wears the steel away too quickly and there's not much to work with in the first place. 

Try using a hone and just touch up the edge with the cutter still in the tool or remove the cutter and lap with the top surface on a flat hone (stone or diamond).
The first of these methods has the disadvantage that you may round over the edge which will then need re-grinding. The second has the disadvantage that you have to remove the cutter each time.

Hope this helps

Duncan


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## twosoc (20 Oct 2007)

Hi TEP that makes perfect sense! Its probably much cheaper than buting them seperately, I found them on Stiles and Bates I think, and they were about £9 or £10 each! Thats without the fittings. 

duncanh :
I'll try that, to be honest I wasn't looking forward to trying to maintain the shape on the grinder.


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## TEP (20 Oct 2007)

Hi again *Tim*, Chronos 1/4"dia x 4" 5% cobalt HSS £1.57. You can buy an awful lot of cutting tips for 10 quid, :lol: There is a minimum priced order for mail order purchases. Think its £10.


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## duncanh (21 Oct 2007)

Tim - if you do intend making your own tips with HSS and want to drill them I found that the only thing that worked was one of those bits designed for cutting ceramic tiles - I think they're tungsten carbide

Duncan


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## twosoc (25 Oct 2007)

Hi guys thanks for all your help. I managed to get it to work the other day and it really does give a nice finish, especially when sharpened. I'm gonna place an order with Chronos soon, and maybe pick up a tile drill too, then I can make the shaped pieces as well  .


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