# Record 043 - Great plough indeed!



## jimi43 (26 Jan 2012)

During my visit to our friend Douglas' workshop to check out his "assembly table".... :mrgreen: I had a lovely surprise from Duncan (jumps) who was also visiting. He gave me a belated Christmas present of this little beauty....







Now if I remember rightly, this is the favourite plane of our dear lady ALF....and that alone should be a huge recommendation but I was thrilled to be able to see one in person...let alone actually own one!

As you can see it needed a bit of spit and polish and a few bars but that didn't prove any problem at all...so after a clean up with naptha....a gentle rub down with the magic MAAS polish and some flattening and new bevels it was time to test her out....






I can see now everything ALF suggested was true...it's a wonderful little performer....accurate and a breeze to set up, tweek and use...






The cutter fair whizzes along...ploughing out beautiful clean shavings and resulting in a beautiful groove...






I once had to cut a very thin groove in a clone VOX AC30 cabinet for the gold piping insert...and in those days I had to source a fine expensive router bit...set up a jig and.run a noisy router all the way around to get the result I needed.

I wish I had had one of these little darlings then....sometimes hand tools can be a hell of a lot simpler, faster and accurate than power tools...and this is probably the best example I know!

So...my thanks to ALF for her suggestion and to Duncan for giving this to me...I owe you one mate!






Jimi


----------



## Racers (26 Jan 2012)

Hi, Jimi

Now you have one it needs a friend, or two or....

And maybe a Russian bride

Pete


----------



## bugbear (26 Jan 2012)

Try a nice wooden fence lining for even more joyful use.

BugBear


----------



## Scouse (26 Jan 2012)

jimi43":2x86ys6q said:


> During my visit to our friend Douglas' workshop to check out his "assembly table".... :mrgreen: I had a lovely surprise from Duncan (jumps) who was also visiting. He gave me a belated Christmas present of this little beauty....



I'm moving to Kent!!! :lol:

Seriously though, lovely little plane, I've had half an eye out for one to go with my 050, but the 50 does me so my search has been a little half hearted.

As a side note, nice to see a few tools being posted in recent days, rather than endless arguments about sharpening! Must mean toolies are coming out of hibernation ready for summer boot fair season! 8)


----------



## The Wood Butcher (26 Jan 2012)

Jimi, can I trouble you for some more details on how you cleaned it up so sympathetically, as it's looking great. 

Never cared for the idea of patina on older tools, just seemed like an excuse for a tool's lifetime of careless owners...


----------



## jumps (26 Jan 2012)

I knew it was going to the right home....


----------



## jimi43 (26 Jan 2012)

Thanks Duncan....and thanks again for such a superb present! You made my day.

Pete....ah yes...I saw your lovely black Russian jobbie....rather nice bit of kit and quite rare in the West I shouldn't wonder!

BB....that would be lignum vitae would it? :mrgreen: Now let me see...I have some offcuts I think.... :wink: Actually, Douglas gave me some really old Rio for that very purpose...I am building up the courage to cut it up!  

Indeed Scouse...I think we all know how to sharpen now after all the airy debate! I actually want to say here that you must only sharpen these cutters with a primary bevel. They don't work well with a honed secondary....this is quite important when tuning these up. I don't bother polishing the bevel....just make sure it's flat and of course, the back needs a polish. The key is to get a little turned over wire edge and then break this off by re-honing the back.

I do the sharpening by hand using the original bevel and holding the cutter in the pad of the index finger.....using the thumb to keep the angle correct and the cutter straight. I takes a bit of practice but it works. Or just make a jig out of wood and clamp.

WB...these old Records are usually nickel plated and most of what you see in the first picture is gunk....imbedded in the fancy point work. I just get a tooth brush or a fine bristle brush (from a bootfair) and pour naphtha (lighter fuel in this country) over the gunk and scrub. Keep doing this until the tool is clean. For the shiny bit use MAAS Polish from Amazon or FleaBay. It's expensive but it goes a very very long way as you only use a tiny bit. It's wonderful stuff and you can polish wood with it too!

I've been trying out the different width cutters...I thought that the wider one might struggle a bit with such a small plane and lack of weight but it just whizzed through just like the smaller ones....even on coarse cut...

It's hard to show but I cut three adjacent grooves very close to each other to check accuracy and consistency and this thing really performs...






To make it clearer I inserted contrasting coloured pieces of test wood and you can clearly see the fine gaps now...






....especially from above...






A super piece of kit!

Now....off to make that fence! :wink: 

Jim


----------



## bugbear (26 Jan 2012)

jimi43":3oxmqz3f said:


> BB....that would be lignum vitae would it? :mrgreen: Now let me see...I have some offcuts I think.... :wink: Actually, Douglas gave me some really old Rio for that very purpose...I am building up the courage to cut it up!



LV would certainly be a defensible choice...

Alf's example in the favourite tool thread

BugBear


----------



## condeesteso (26 Jan 2012)

I knew the second I saw it that 43 was going to be a problem. I now have about 5 on ebay watch. 
And Jim, that rosewood is off my old U.S. Stan 45 so it's good enough I reckon :wink: And I think you (of all people) very nearly tipped this into a sharpening thread back there.
Yes, Scouse, come on down!


----------



## jimi43 (26 Jan 2012)

bugbear":17moyd62 said:


> jimi43":17moyd62 said:
> 
> 
> > BB....that would be lignum vitae would it? :mrgreen: Now let me see...I have some offcuts I think.... :wink: Actually, Douglas gave me some really old Rio for that very purpose...I am building up the courage to cut it up!
> ...



Indeed it would...from a frictionless perspective it would be ideal. However, traditionally, the older ones would be Brazilian Rosewood....and I have an excellent piece that Douglas gave me for the very purpose.

I love the way that you have moulded the ends like the old plough planes...rather nice touch that. I think I will stick to traditional though like my old Stanley No.45....






There is something magical about rosewood with nickel plated castings.. :wink: 

Jim


----------



## jimi43 (26 Jan 2012)

condeesteso":1c5qqt9r said:


> I knew the second I saw it that 43 was going to be a problem. I now have about 5 on ebay watch.
> And Jim, that rosewood is off my old U.S. Stan 45 so it's good enough I reckon :wink: And I think you (of all people) very nearly tipped this into a sharpening thread back there.
> Yes, Scouse, come on down!



AH! Now you know you need five Douglas, one for each bench!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: 

How strange that I should just post my No.45 and you should mention yours at the same time...spooky!!!

Yes...sorry about mentioning the "S-word" just in response to WB's enquiry that's all mate...  

Jim


----------



## SammyQ (26 Jan 2012)

Jimi, is MAAS the same as Solvolautsol?

Sam


----------



## Harbo (26 Jan 2012)

Yes lovely tools - Silver Steel rod is readily available to make extra rods.

Rod


----------



## jimi43 (26 Jan 2012)

SammyQ":s9fngtp9 said:


> Jimi, is MAAS the same as Solvolautsol?
> 
> Sam



I don't think so Sammy....my mother got it for me...apparently she had heard how good it was and got me a tube as a present. It has had tons of hype but I think that in this instance...it is all justified.

A friend of mine who used to be a luthier at Rickenbacker uses it all the time to polish guitar finishes and sensitive cleaning of vintage parts. It seems to have a cleaning effect and is controllable. You can go so far and stop and it just looks clean and old or you can go further and polish to a shine. The key to use is doing a small area at a time....

You can indeed by silver steel rods on FleaBay really cheap but in this instance I think these came from an acrylic display stand for brochures. I never throw anything away mate! These are perfect because the ends are slightly wider top hats which unscrew...so the fence doesn't fall off the end and land on your toe....(this is known as the Stay Set Effect! :mrgreen: )

Jim

Jim


----------



## Alf (26 Jan 2012)

Should tailed-tool-using folks who've seen the light (Hallelujah!) happen to have any UHMW plastic about their person (e.g.), that makes an excellent fence facing material too. Not traditional, but in practical terms just about perfect. I have it on a couple of my ploughs - I'm not ashamed. 

P.S. _*pssst*_ 043, Jim :wink:


----------



## condeesteso (26 Jan 2012)

Yes Alf - that's what I have on my Stan 45, and Record 44 - doesn't look period but works v well.


----------



## No skills (26 Jan 2012)

Hand tool abusing louts might go the whole hog and add bits of nylatron to the fence, save the nice bits of wood for more decorative items


----------



## jimi43 (26 Jan 2012)

Ok....all done...rosewood...traditional shape...slides even better....






You know when some tools are just that little bit special when you actually want to use them over and over again. Once I had made the fence I spent about an hour just cutting grooves...it really is a fun little baby!

And on the subject of baby...just for those of you who haven't gauged the actual size of this gem....






...it really is only just a handful...

So...yet another classic hand tool which will be ideal when I start my tool chest project.

Jim


----------



## Vann (27 Jan 2012)

jimi43":1exg444h said:


>


Ahem Jimi, technique! You starts at the end and works backwards. :mrgreen: (hammer) 

Cheers, Vann.


----------



## woodbloke (27 Jan 2012)

jimi43":hwq4x08a said:


> ... I spent about an hour just cutting grooves...it really is a fun little baby!
> 
> Jim


Jim, you need to get out a bit more...or at least take some water with it! :lol: - Rob


----------



## bugbear (27 Jan 2012)

jimi43":zsh75pu6 said:


> bugbear":zsh75pu6 said:
> 
> 
> > jimi43":zsh75pu6 said:
> ...



There's no question of authenticity or tradition for the Record #043 or #044 fences - they were merely sold with drilled metal fences, and users could fabricate as they willed.

So I choose to "be inspired by" the older wooden ploughs and fillisters. It was also a good excuse to use a scratch stock on lignum which is FUN!

BugBear


----------



## jimi43 (27 Jan 2012)

Vann":1ucwhqu4 said:


> Ahem Jimi, technique! You starts at the end and works backwards......



Indeed Vann....you have to on the big-uns and woodies but this little whizzer just cut one straight furrow once started so I took the opportunity to photograph it....artistic licence an' all mate! :wink: 



woodbloke":1ucwhqu4 said:


> Jim, you need to get out a bit more...or at least take some water with it! - Rob



Rob...mate...this and puppy-sitting are the extent of my excitement....sad init! :mrgreen: 



BugBear":1ucwhqu4 said:


> There's no question of authenticity or tradition for the Record #043 or #044 fences - they were merely sold with drilled metal fences, and users could fabricate as they willed.
> 
> So I choose to "be inspired by" the older wooden ploughs and fillisters. It was also a good excuse to use a scratch stock on lignum which is FUN!
> 
> BugBear



BB....sorry mate....wrong word "traditional" in this context....what I mean is "contemporary".... I was referring to closer period match (IMHO) rather that what originally came with the plane. I was thinking you probably used a scratch to make those beautiful mouldings....nice job you did too! 

I'm really resisting the temptation to go out and make a box for it. :mrgreen: :wink: 

Jim


----------



## adidat (27 Jan 2012)

very nice jim, like the fence

although nothing is more pleasing to the eye than an early 45 with the floral patters and rosewood.







adidat


----------



## Crooked Tree (29 Jan 2012)

As people are posting pictures of their examples of this useful little beast I will post mine, in the true spirit of gloating:






Given to me as a rather nice present having been restored and "pimped", as the youths say!


----------



## Racers (29 Jan 2012)

Hi, Crooked Tree

Very shiny, have you had it chrome plated?


Pete


----------



## condeesteso (29 Jan 2012)

Anyone noticed... I swear the price of these has risen a good 50% since Alf and then Jim drew attention to the 43. I'm going to wait til things calm down a bit. After all, don't actually need one.


----------



## Crooked Tree (29 Jan 2012)

Hi Pete,

it has been re-plated, but in copper followed by nickel, rather than chrome. I think.


----------



## jimi43 (29 Jan 2012)

condeesteso":38de85he said:


> Anyone noticed... I swear the price of these has risen a good 50% since Alf and then Jim drew attention to the 43. I'm going to wait til things calm down a bit. After all, don't actually need one.



Just did a quick check and without giving too much away...um...no. :wink: 

I think it would be wise though that if one of our brethren were interested in bidding on one that they made the forum aware and it would then be the gentlemanly (or gentlewomanly!!) thing not to bid against said member.......

There are at least four up on FleaBay at the moment at extremely reasonable prices....I'm sure more than enough to go around! :mrgreen: 

Jim


----------



## condeesteso (6 Feb 2012)

Finally got one, can I come in now  

One thing I think I will like a lot is no depth adjustment device. Given that my Record 44 and 50, and Stanley 45 all have 'depth adjusters'... I expect this feature on the 43 to be a *real big plus*.


----------



## Trizza (12 Feb 2012)

I adore my 43  Its a fantastic little plane! I mostly use it for ploughing truss rod slots in guitar necks.


----------



## condeesteso (13 Feb 2012)

agreed Trizza - I got one Saturday, and spent maybe an hour cleaning it, then sharpening all 3 blades, which is a really quick job. It's a real cracker - quite small so easy to control, simple to set up and set the depth of cut, and works incredibly well. If you had just one plough I think this is it. (I know the premium ones must be very good, but this Record is available around £30, maybe less, and I can't find anything that lets it down at all.)


----------



## Modernist (13 Feb 2012)

Being a Geordie I went for the identical Rapier No 3, made in Gateshead, which additionally gives me a warm feeling in use.

A great plane. Talking of warmth I must get the lighter fuel out, although I normally use parrafin.


----------



## Alf (13 Feb 2012)

Sounds like an example of the rarely found centrally-heated Rapier No.3H


----------



## jimi43 (13 Feb 2012)

Modernist":2etktewx said:



> Being a Geordie I went for the identical Rapier No 3, made in Gateshead, which additionally gives me a warm feeling in use.
> 
> A great plane. Talking of warmth I must get the lighter fuel out, although I normally use parrafin.



There was a Rapier 043 on FleaBay this month...was that the one? It was in beautiful condition.

What is the quality like? The only Rapier I have ever owned was the 500....the bright red version of the Stanley/Bailey No.5 which sadly was a very poor relation. The 043 on Fleabay had great pictures and you could see that this was a quality tool from those.

I would be interested to compare the two.

Incidentally....for those of you joining this rather vertical but narrow slope....there are some beautiful replacement irons for it from the Ray Iles stable of excellent at WORKSHOP HEAVEN HERE for the superb price of only £12 for three! That's four quid each for something this good.

I'm not saying that the originals aren't good enough (before I get myself into the corporal mortification that is yet another replacement iron debate :mrgreen: ) but many of these planes are missing their shoes...lost in the workshops of time and single shod versions are relatively cheap.

Jim





Jim


----------



## Modernist (13 Feb 2012)

I'll post some pics but it seems good.


----------



## Modernist (13 Feb 2012)

Alf":2uyr5yi3 said:


> Sounds like an example of the rarely found centrally-heated Rapier No.3H


----------



## AndyT (13 Feb 2012)

I also have one of the Rapier copies - I don't have the Record to put side by side, but it seems absolutely fine to me. When I bought it, I had got fed up with waiting for one to appear on eBay - supplies seem to be quite healthy again now.


----------



## wcndave (14 Feb 2012)

What's the difference and rarity of the different numbers, seems to be a lot of 44,45,50 record planes out there?

I do have a 50 which i got of the bay a couple of weeks ago, however have not been over to UK to pick it up, so not really sure what to expect...


----------



## condeesteso (14 Feb 2012)

here's the 43 beside a 50. Makes the 43 look tiny, but the 43 does handle really well. The 50 has a depth adjuster locating in the side of blade. I think this depth adjuster is quite good, certainly better than the variant used on the 44 (a screw into slot under blade which wears then tends to disengage). Note the 3 example cutters that come with a 50 (if it has the full set). I feel these are a bit ambitious for the size of the 50, but others may disagree. But note the full set includes the narrower range of square ploughs also. I reckon the 50 is a good mid-size plough. (pic bigger if you click on it)
edit: the dust on the 50 and absence of sharpness on the blades here suggests something.


----------



## Mr Ed (19 Feb 2012)

In the interests of experimentation I picked one up on eBay for £16. Not as shiny as some of these others, but it's all there, with 3 blades. Works well, although I don't find it particularly comfortable to hold.






I made a fancy wooden fence just for giggles yesterday afternoon.

Ed


----------



## GazPal (19 Feb 2012)

Modernist":2kwoh2o2 said:


> Being a Geordie I went for the identical Rapier No 3, made in Gateshead, which additionally gives me a warm feeling in use.
> 
> A great plane. Talking of warmth I must get the lighter fuel out, although I normally use parrafin.



Being a Geordie (Originally from Elswick), I've been tempted to pick up a few examples of Rapier's planes of late, as my grandfather swore by their copies of Record plough planes (His examples were nicked ....erm inherited by a cousin), but I already have a few by Record (Including a 040, 043, 044, etc.) that work very nicely indeedy


----------



## aesmith (25 Feb 2012)

My Rapier "43" has just turned up again. Unbelievably I thought it had got lost in the move (or just as bad, mispacked and sitting in some damp place).

Anyway I see the suggestion of 7mm rod to make shorter fence bars. Could someone measure the actual diameter of the original Record ones? The rods on my Rapier are just under 7.9mm which makes me think that 7mm would be too loose a fit. Should it be imperial? But 5/16 is very slightly larger than my measurements. (Edit - 9/32" looks to be too small as well)

Thanks in advance, Tony S


----------



## jimi43 (25 Feb 2012)

aesmith":2mxfjwbz said:


> My Rapier "43" has just turned up again. Unbelievably I thought it had got lost in the move (or just as bad, mispacked and sitting in some damp place).
> 
> Anyway I see the suggestion of 7mm rod to make shorter fence bars. Could someone measure the actual diameter of the original Record ones? The rods on my Rapier are just under 7.9mm which makes me think that 7mm would be too loose a fit. Should it be imperial? But 5/16 is very slightly larger than my measurements. (Edit - 9/32" looks to be too small as well)
> 
> Thanks in advance, Tony S



Mine are a gnat's thingy under 7mm both measuring in imperial 0.274"

I guess they must be 7mm then....I just found some rod that fitted so mine are not original.

This is often the case with cloned types of that period....they would be different enough to not be interchangeable. I would think the Rapier's are 8mm then...although don't take my word for it! :wink: 

Cheers

Jim


----------



## AndyT (25 Feb 2012)

I just had an idea - a set of drill bits is a good practical way of measuring what size of round thing will fit into a hole!

Using this method on my old Rapier, I find that 8mm and 5/16" are near enough the same and both give a nice sliding fit - so use metric or imperial - whichever you can find to buy.


----------



## aesmith (25 Feb 2012)

Drill bits are a good idea, although I wouldn't want to trust the shank of say 8mm to be exactly 8mm. I would think it would be smaller, to make sure its a clearance fit in the hole it's drilled. However I can measure them of course. (Dare I say that I think Elu router fence rods are 8mm?)


----------



## Alf (25 Feb 2012)

aesmith":rppmcezs said:


> Anyway I see the suggestion of 7mm rod to make shorter fence bars.


Yes, for the Record 043 - same, but as Jim says, different. Them old toolmakers like to keep us all on our toes, bless 'em. And by "bless 'em", I mean something else entirely...

But it's a fair point. If we can establish the correct size for the Rapier No.3 and maybe the Ruskie copy, I'll append the info to my page when I update it next (which should be soonish).


----------



## Modernist (25 Feb 2012)

Alf":3yg2d6zg said:


> aesmith":3yg2d6zg said:
> 
> 
> > Anyway I see the suggestion of 7mm rod to make shorter fence bars.
> ...


I will revert in the morning


----------



## DTR (25 Feb 2012)

Alf":35jyd7v5 said:


> aesmith":35jyd7v5 said:
> 
> 
> > Anyway I see the suggestion of 7mm rod to make shorter fence bars.
> ...



My 043 is a Marples, would you like to know what size rods that takes too?


----------



## Harbo (25 Feb 2012)

My Record 43 measures .272" but 7mm Silver Steel rod fits fine.

My Marples 44 measures 9.5mm 0.315" 

Rod


----------



## aesmith (26 Feb 2012)

I'm not sure if that's a typo or a space warp, here in Aberdeenshire 0.315" = almost exactly 8mm.

Anyway I've exhausted my stock of materials to try, and can report that the original rods are 7.90mm - presumably a slightly undersized 5/16". An Elu fence rod @ 7.95mm is a snug fit, so I think full 8mm would be too big, but 5/16" spot on. Ebay here I come, unless someone knows a better source for small quantities of steel rod. I'm going to go for stainless if I can, since silver steel will be supplied annealed so will be soft anyway.


----------



## t8hants (26 Feb 2012)

In my ignorance, am I missing a point here? If rod of the original size is not readily obtainable, then why not ream out the hole the few thou it would need to fit readily available 8mm rod, in bright, brass or s/s to suit ones taste, or is this it must be kept original at all costs thing? I don't have a 043 to see if you can, but from the photos posted it looks do-able. 

To my mind museums and glass cabinets are full of completely original tools - never to be used - a working tool will need replacement parts. I am slightly puzzled over this. 

Gareth


----------



## Vann (26 Feb 2012)

t8hants":1j7dqpnw said:


> In my ignorance, am I missing a point here? If rod of the original size is not readily obtainable, then why not ream out the hole the few thou it would need to fit readily available 8mm rod, in bright, brass or s/s to suit ones taste, or is this it must be kept original at all costs thing?


Yebbut then if he wants to use his longer rods again they'll flop around in the holes.

Cheers, Vann.


----------



## Alf (26 Feb 2012)

DTR":2beok13p said:


> My 043 is a Marples, would you like to know what size rods that takes too?


Oo, yes please, Dave. The more the merrier.

Gareth, as Vann sez; this is for additional (shorter) rods, rather than total replacement. It's more a "make the tool better for certain jobs" thing than an originality thing. Although actually it's probably easier to get rods the correct size than ream them out anyway. At least IME.


----------



## Modernist (26 Feb 2012)

The Rapier No 3 is 5/16", 7.9mm or 0.312" as you prefer.


----------



## t8hants (26 Feb 2012)

Quite clearly if you opened the holes out the old rods will be a loose fit, but as the cost of the replacment rod is not that much, a suit of different size rods could then be made - versitility restored!

Gareth


----------



## jimi43 (26 Feb 2012)

t8hants":3j8twh3p said:


> Quite clearly if you opened the holes out the old rods will be a loose fit, but as the cost of the replacment rod is not that much, a suit of different size rods could then be made - versitility restored!
> 
> Gareth



I don't think 5/16" rod of any sort is that rare...indeed you can get a metre stainless steel on FLEABAY CLICK CLICK :wink: 

Or you could go for BRASS for a bit of class!

I would never modify the body of anything unless there was no option at all and to get it working as a tool...that was the only way.

Jim


----------



## Cheshirechappie (26 Feb 2012)

If anybody needs a source of small quantities of Silver Steel, stainless, brass or mild steel round bar (and flats, angles, sheet, hex, tube, etc), try Folkestone Engineering Supplies. They are a model engineer's supplier, and give very good service in my experience.

If buying drawn bright bar, bear in mind that it tends to be a couple of thou (typically 0.003") below nominal size. That doesn't apply to Silver Steel, which is centreless ground to limits of under a thou on nominal. Silver steel will be plenty hard enough for plough fence rods - as will stainless and the medium tensile steels such as EN8, EN16 and EN24. Mild steel (EN3, EN1A) will do as well, but might get a bit burred by the clamp screws.

If your piece of bar is a tad oversized for it's hole, chuck it in a drill-press or leccy drill and polish the outside with emery. That will take off enough to make it a nice slide fit. Don't overdo it, it's easy to take off too much. Use a coarse grade to get a tight fit, then polish with a fine grade for an easy fit and a nice finish. You could even treat the ends to a rounding-off with a smooth file while it's in the chuck.

Reaming holes that are short in depth compared to their diameter is not advisable without setting the job up square in a machine. It would be very easy to get the fence rods out of parallel. Probably better to emery new rods to fit existing holes. Would be worth checking the existing holes for burrs, though.


----------



## DTR (26 Feb 2012)

Alf":3v5sfstg said:


> Oo, yes please, Dave. The more the merrier.



I spent four hours in the shed today and forget to check #-o . Sorry, I'll have a look tomorrow.




Cheshirechappie":3v5sfstg said:


> If anybody needs ...



A few good tips there, thanks for posting


----------



## Alf (27 Feb 2012)

No rush - I'm not exactly the world's fastest webpage updater.  

At the moment we seem to have a consensus on 5/16" for the Rapier, yep? I'm going to opt for the nearest "round number", metric or imperial, as that seems the clearest for non-engineering types (such as me) to deal with.


----------



## DTR (28 Feb 2012)

Huzzah I remembered!

The rods in my MA43 are 0.280" or 7.13mm or 9/32".


----------



## Vann (29 Feb 2012)

DTR":3q1c0qy8 said:


> The rods in my MA43 are 0.280" or 7.13mm or 9/32".


Hmm...
9/32" = 7.144mm;
0.280" = 7.112mm;
7.13 = 7.130mm :roll: 

I suppose the difference is insignificant #-o 

Cheers, Vann.


----------



## DTR (29 Feb 2012)

Vann":2ea06miy said:


> DTR":2ea06miy said:
> 
> 
> > The rods in my MA43 are 0.280" or 7.13mm or 9/32".
> ...



The 0.280" and 7.13mm were taken from micrometers. I haven't checked how accurate my mic's are so that might explain the difference.

I'm assuming that 9/32" was the target size as that's 0.2812".


----------



## Alf (29 Feb 2012)

Hmm. Target size might have been 7mm + plating p'raps? I'll have to have a refresher goof at my 043s and remind myself how accurate (or not) a fit the 7mm is. Although it wouldn't surprise me in the least if the Marples size was slightly different again. Thanks, Dave.


----------

