# Mini-Digger/Excavator



## monkeybiter (26 Jun 2013)

I've just hired a mini digger for some 'landscaping' at home next week. The only possible problem is that to get to the area in question I have to go through an open sided building with a max height of 1.9M. The digger is a KX36 with a stated height of 2.28M. 
If push comes to shove I'll temporarily 'adjust' the building's openings but I'd rather take the cab off for the 16' journey then refit.

Anyone have any experience of this [type] of machine and know if cab removal will be fairly easy?


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## Graham Orm (26 Jun 2013)

Speak to the hire company. It will cost you an arm and a leg if you break something on it. I hired one to dig out for my workshop base 18 months ago. Best toy ever!!


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## Myfordman (26 Jun 2013)

There are models specifically designed for passing through domestic doorways. The tracks move inwards for the journey through doors and then widen out for stability.

Maybe you could swap it for a more suitable model with the hire co?


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## monkeybiter (26 Jun 2013)

Thanks for the suggestions so far; 
If the cab/cage won't remove easily [like the one you hired!]then I'll go for the temp. doorway mod.
As far as the width is concerned the tightest spot is 1.1M, whereas the stated width is 0.99M so that shouldn't be an issue.

Re. the best toy...I must say I'm looking forward to it!

Grayorm how long did it take you to dig your base?


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## paulm (26 Jun 2013)

Some models have a safety cage/roll bar instead of a cab, and this can be folded down temporarily to allow access and then put back up after..... 

Cheers, Paul


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## monkeybiter (26 Jun 2013)

paulm":2egbcbv0 said:


> Some models have a safety cage/roll bar instead of a cab, and this can be folded down temporarily to allow access and then put back up after.....
> 
> Cheers, Paul



Fingers crossed. I'll give them a buzz in that case. Thanks.


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## barkwindjammer (26 Jun 2013)

The ROPS/FOPS cab on these minis are removeable-but you would need an overhead crane to lift it off-they are very heavy


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## graduate_owner (26 Jun 2013)

I have one of these for use on my smallholding. They are great tools, but can be very frustrating. I find just getting a level surface is a major performance. However they are so incredibly handy - during the last dry spell I shifted about 25 tons of horse manure using it in conjunction with an old dumper. Owning one is great because it's there when you need it. Before I bought one it was a case of "it's not worth hiring one just for this small job". so I would have to manage without and end up killing my back again. Now it's a case of just get the digger out of the shed, even for just 10 minutes, then tuck it away again. 
Expensive though.

K


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## Graham Orm (26 Jun 2013)

monkeybiter":w4zyx7e8 said:


> Thanks for the suggestions so far;
> If the cab/cage won't remove easily [like the one you hired!]then I'll go for the temp. doorway mod.
> As far as the width is concerned the tightest spot is 1.1M, whereas the stated width is 0.99M so that shouldn't be an issue.
> 
> ...



Couple of days, the most tedious part is that one scoop fills a wheelbarrow, I had a labourer running to and fro with the barrow but had to wait for him all the time. I went down about 18" from the turf that you can see then in-filled with MOT and compacted it. I also pulled out 2 trees with it, which would have been a days work each. 
To move the roots (which weighed much too much to move manually), I lowered the arm onto the root then tied it tight with rope. I then lifted the root into the air and my lad pushed a car trailer underneath. Once I'd lowered the root onto the trailer we untied it from the machine and were able to push the trailer out to the skip. A fantastic tool. As you can see it had a little bulldozer blade too which was useful. If yours has one, make sure you lower it and take the weight of the machine on the blade to stabilize it while you use the arm to dig.


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## richard56 (29 Jun 2013)

After a visit to a JCB open day at Rocester.
I had a little go on a 3C the instructor told me the secret to easy leveling.
Get the machine as level as possible. A 3C used hydraulic jacks and it's front bucket to level itself.
Tracked machines need to 'nibble' away at high spots. When you have a level area stand the machine on it.
By pulling the control levers back and outwards simultaneously (about 4 o clock and 8 o clock).
The bucket skims the ground level. Well it did for him.
What is the floor surface of the open sided building?
If it is possible and there are no pipes or cables. Dig it out and replace when you finish.


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## monkeybiter (29 Jun 2013)

richard56":3uqwwasj said:


> If it is possible and there are no pipes or cables. Dig it out and replace when you finish.



I think I will probably end up having to do this as I think I'll struggle to lift the roof/door aperture enough. PITA


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## RogerS (29 Jun 2013)

The most impressive bit of 'digging' with one of these things was in London in Gt Marlborough Street where they were demolishing a four storey concrete building. They craned one of these diggers equipped with a 'woodpecker' gizmo that hammered away at the concrete. The guy started chiselling away at the top floor that he was actually on. After he'd chiselled away as much as he could (all the debris simply falling onto the floor below) he reversed a little and started all over again. Gradually a large mound of broken concrete built up on the floor beneath. So much so that by the time he couldn't reverse any further, there was enough of the mound for him to drive forward ONTO the mound. Swivel by 180 degrees and then finish chipping away at the remaining 6ft or so of the original concrete floor.

Then using his dozer blade he proceeded to simply shove the mound off of the floor straight down the side of the building until he revealed the floor whereupon he started chiselling that one.


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## barkwindjammer (29 Jun 2013)

By the end of the week Mike, you'll be able to do THIS :wink: 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBMUvAUPTGM


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## monkeybiter (2 Jul 2013)

Well the digger arrived [90 mins late] and I was chuffed to discover that the 'cab' is merely a single rectangular anti-roll frame behind the driver, with a hinged joint so that it can be lowered for restricted access. That's saved a lot of slow and inexperienced digging!


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## Mcluma (2 Jul 2013)

Good luck

but be carefull not to tip the digger over, and ALWAYS ALWAYS put the dozer down when digging


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## graduate_owner (9 Jul 2013)

Got the digger out again today - levelling (well, sort of level) a patch of garden close behind the greenhouse AND the greenhouse is still intact. Look out tomorrow though, I'll be working closer still.

K


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## monkeybiter (10 Jul 2013)

Mine had to go back on Monday morning unfortunately, I could have done with one more day.

It was quite fun for a while, took 2-3 days to get used to co-ordinating the movements. Luckily I didn't manage to break anything.

Now I need to Google ways to 'break down' a load of clay, if that's even possible :roll:


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## graduate_owner (10 Jul 2013)

We have clay soil, underneath which is some really thick clay subsoil so it hardly drains at all. My garden relies on raised beds, else everything would have rotting roots. The usual way to break down clay soil is to use well rotted manure or compost, either dug in by yourself or dragged in by the worms. That's what I have in my raised beds. It won't happen overnight but you really can improve clay soil. But if you are talking about clay subsoil, then your best bet is to take it away in a trailer, because I don't think you can do much with it - unless you want to make clay pots or bricks.

We have carted away many tons of clay subsoil that had been dug out of flower and veg beds. Luckily a neighbouring farmer needed some filling, so we dumped it nearby and free of charge, else we'd have spread it very thinly on our fields (to minimise the 'damage') - or pay silly money for multiple skip hire. And I'm still digging out the stuff occasionally.

So if it's really solid, thick clay subsoil, then don't kid yourself - dump it. And don't expect to just shovel it into a trailer, especially during this weather, because it will go like concrete. You'll need a pick to break it up (or a mini digger !!) so get shifting before it hardens.

K

K


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## dickm (12 Jul 2013)

As well as organic matter, adding some lime to clay can help break it down.


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## graduate_owner (12 Jul 2013)

Yes, lime will also help, but apparently you should never add lime at the same time as manure.

K


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## dickm (13 Jul 2013)

You're dead right, G. O. Had forgotten that detail from crop science lectures................... but they were 50 years ago


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## monkeybiter (14 Jul 2013)

So what happens if you mix lime and manure?


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## dickm (14 Jul 2013)

monkeybiter":33pxz8ke said:


> So what happens if you mix lime and manure?



From (very rusty) memory, the change in pH means that you lose nitrogen from the manure in the form of ammonia. Which may not matter if you just want the organic matter in the manure, not the nutrients.


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## graduate_owner (23 Jul 2013)

With all this dry weather I've been able to get on the digger again to clear out some more of our clay subsoil. The plan is to level an area, cover with membrane and a few inches of chippings. That will increase my parking area and clear up a real mess at the same time. But, using the digger for several hours a day for 4 days really makes my shoulders ache. I find I'm hunched over the control levers, and unless I actively make an effort to stay upright, I find myself hunched again. However I'm sure my shoulders would ache a lot more if I was using pick, shovel and wheelbarrow to do the job.

K


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## kostello (23 Jul 2013)

Well if you don't want an achy back from driving the digger you could dig it by hand instead......


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## graduate_owner (24 Jul 2013)

Yep, Kostello, I had thought of that but decided against it. I'm 63 and I don't think I'd live long enough to do the job by hand. My aching shoulders from the digger are OK by the next day, whereas by hand - well, I don't even want to think about it.

K


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## monkeybiter (24 Jul 2013)

Using the digger I hired made my knees hurt! I think I must have been unconsciously pushing back against the seat.


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## graduate_owner (27 Jul 2013)

Slightly different topic - 
Some years ago (about 32) we had a bungalow built, and in the Dr's surgery recently I met the JCB driver who dug the footings. He said his joints were finished, especially his knees (probably in his JCB too) because of the constant jarring from the action of the bucket in hard and stony ground. I'd never heard of that before, but apparently it's a recognised occupational hazard.

I'm thinking that at the rate I'm going, I'd better stop using the digger by the time I'm 95, or I too could be in for joint trouble in later life.

K


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