# Playroom toy storage



## Mike Saville

*The problem:*


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[img]http://www.mikesaville.co.uk/images/house/playroom/IMG_2980.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.mikesaville.co.uk/images/house/playroom/IMG_2981.jpg[/img]

Toys everywhere!!  I've looked around at storage solutions in the shops and nothing seems to be quite right. Too small, wrong shape, wrong size and mostly far too expensive. So SWMBO has ordered one of these:


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[img]http://www.mikesaville.co.uk/images/house/playroom/playroom.jpg[/img]

I got this pic a couple of years back online somewhere and can't remember - if anyone recognises it please let me know. [edit]Thanks Doc for the tip - this image comes from ArmstrongJordan please visit as they have some great stuff.


*Function*
The unit needs to be large enough to store all the kids toys. Under the base we'll need some large pull out 'bins' in which to throw stuff that's lying around. The top section needs shelves and drawers to organise books, drawing stuff etc neatly. It also needs to fit into 2 spaces - the current playroom and also the new one which will be in the house extension once that's finished.

*Overall design description*
I'm going to make the unit out of 18mm Moisture resistant MDF which seems to be the most stable material and will take the best finish. The finish will be a water based satin/eggshell which I'll spray on. The bottom bins will be on twin wheel castors. Drawers will be on metal runners (think MFI/IKEA kitchen type). Unfortunately full extension runners proved much too expensive for this project, especially given how many I need. As this is going to be painted I don't need any fancy joinery so I'll be using simple butt joints in the main, glued and screwed with bscuits for alignment. The upper shelves will either be fixed into dados or be adjustable. 

*Main Dimensions*
Here's a sketchup drawing of the unit with dimensions. You can download a copy here:


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[url]http://www.mikesaville.co.uk/images/house/playroom/toystorage.skp[/url]

It's a little rough and doesn't show all the details (dados and adjustable shelves for example)


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[img]http://www.mikesaville.co.uk/images/house/playroom/toystoragedimensions.jpg[/img]


*Structural elements*
For the sides of the base I want to go for a slightly chunky look. I'm therefore going to go for a slim box with internal ribs idea. I'll then have a covering strip at the front to give a solid look. All this will be glued and screwed (and then filled/sanded etc)





The top of the base is one of my main concerns. I want the same chunky look as the sides. The ribs idea might work here. I could use softwood batons on their side. The other idea I had was some square steel tube which is available in 2m lengths. Either way I need to make sure the top isn't going to sag. The span between legs is going to be around 2.2m and whilst the back panel will help I do need some extra structural help to prevent any sag in future.




Storage bins at the bottom will be a simple box construction, glued and screwed. The bottom of the box will be riased slightly to part conceal the castors. Handles will simply be a hole cut in the front and rounded over. Cheap and practical  I've got 62mm in the drawing but that's probably a bit big.


Code:


[img]http://www.mikesaville.co.uk/images/house/playroom/toystoragebin.jpg[/img]


*Drawers*
I'm waiting on delivery of the runners before final design - just realised that I've specced 18mm for the bottoms - probably over kill . . . . no fancy joinery here, simple butts will do the job.

*Shelving*
There are 6 'units' of shelving. Each of the end units will have fixed height shelves which I will dado/screw together. I'll then have adjustable shelves for some of the middle ones and some fixed - yet to decide exact configuration. All these shelving 'unit' will have a back panel fixed to them for a bit of structural support.

*Fixing methods/construction*
As I've mentioned above I'm intending to use screws and glue for the most part. As the finish is painted I can fill over the top and still get a good finish. I'll also use biscuits to help alignment in some places. I guess some people might forgo the screws and use a Domino. My budget doesn't stretch to that! I can see that it would save a lot of sanding of filler over screw heads. Any other ideas out there, aside from screws/filler?

I'm going to build in 2 parts. The base and bins first and then the upper shelving unit. I'm not sure at this stage what if any fixing I will have between the 2 sections. I was thinking some dowels to keep the 2 aligned but I'm not set on that.

At the very top will be a baton that I can use to fix the whole unit to the wall.

*Finish*
This unit is going to get sprayed with a sheen/eggshell finish. I've picked up some cheap coloured paint and done a few samples with that and the results seem to be quite good. The method I'm intending to use is PVA sealer, primer, undercoat, 3 topcoats. All the paints are acrylic/waterbased - I'm not a fan of washing oil based finishes out of my gun . . . .. .

I'm can see a few issues arising here. Firstly changing between the various colours is going to be a pain, nevermind. More of an issue will be drying space - I need to come up with a good storage solution for drying lots of panels.

My main question around finish is what stage to finish and when. Ideally I would do all finish before construction. However if glueing and screwing there will be further finish to do after construction. I'm thinking that I will seal and prime before construction then apply undercoat and finish coats afterwards. I'm open to ideas and suggestions here. 

*Materials List*
Here's an approx list of materials and costs:
Castors x 20 - screwfix - £12.89
Drawer runners x 18 pairs - fleabay - £50.88
18mm MR MDF x 13 - Timber store - £202.54
12mm MR MDF x 2 - Timber store - £24.74
Carcass scerws - screwfix - £5
Titebond III - Axminster - £4
Biscuits -screwfix - £2
PVA - screwfix - £2
Universal Primer 2.5l - B&Q - £6.90
Brilliant White Acrylic Eggshell 5l - Trago Mills £21.86
Satin Colors everywhere 2.5l x 6 - B&Q (bargain bucket clearout 8) ) - £44.94
Approx Total: £380


That's the general idea. Thoughts? Comments? What have I missed? Any problems you think I might meet. Any ideas really, really appreciated.[/url]


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## Shultzy

I like it a lot, you will have fun making it.

Things to consider are:

make sure all the edges are rounded, children love to head-butt hard objects. :lol: 

the base unit top construction should be ok but I would make the back panel for this unit the same thickness as the sides to give it a bit more rigidity.

the base unit top should have a rounded front for the reasons above.

if you extend the base unit top it could double as a desk / playarea.


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## OPJ

Looks good to me. Though, I also agree with Shultzy's comments.

You could probably get away with biscuits and glue for a lot of the construction. Another suggestion might be Miller Dowels but, given the required quantity, it would be an expensive way to do things! What about counter-_boring_ the screw-heads so you can then hide them with a wooden plug, then sand and finish? You could glue them in with a five-minute PVA.

What are your reasons for choosing Titebond III? I don't see a problem with the original (I) glue or any other interior PVA, for that matter.


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## Chris Knight

That will be a great unit!

I don't think the base top should be a problem, you are essentially creating a torsion box and they are well known for resisting sagging. If you are concerned you can increase its resistance to sagging simply by increasing the separation of the top and bottom skins. If you are interested in the science behind this assertion, you will find it here.

http://boatdesign.net/articles/foam-core/


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## Mike Saville

All, thanks for replies so far.



Shultzy":1cmdrsxt said:


> make sure all the edges are rounded, children love to head-butt hard objects. :lol: .



Yep indeed, already had to modify my coffee table for that reason.



Shultzy":1cmdrsxt said:


> the base unit top construction should be ok but I would make the back panel for this unit the same thickness as the sides to give it a bit more rigidity.



I had originally thought 12mm as opposed to 18mm. I guess thicker would be better.



Shultzy":1cmdrsxt said:


> if you extend the base unit top it could double as a desk / playarea.



I had considered that, might still do. I'm thinking that 900mm might be too wide though for the space we have. I'll revisit this one.



OPJ":1cmdrsxt said:


> What about counter-boring the screw-heads so you can then hide them with a wooden plug, then sand and finish?



Hmm, I could do. Might save me some time. I do have some plug cutters - though never tried them in MDF. I'll run some tests and see.



OPJ":1cmdrsxt said:


> What are your reasons for choosing Titebond III?



Erm . . .had some laying around.  The ££'s below are just a guesstimate for the amount I'll use. It's actually a much larger bottle 

W37, thanks for the link.


Anyone got any thoughts on join between top and bottom parts of this? I don't want a permanent join as it will be moved once a new room is build. I was thinking dowels to locate the top in position??

Also any thoughts on drying lots of pieces in a small area? Any clever ideas for racks/shelving etc appreciated.


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## Shultzy

Mike, you can use either dowels or biscuits, it depends on which system you have. You could even use a loose tenon.


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## oddsocks

Mike , re the join between the top and bottom I'd suggest the technique favoured by Steve Maskery in his jigs to insert hardwood dowels into the verticals of the the top section then screw into them from the bottom section.

A few years ago I built a bookcase that was floor to ceiling and used biscuits to join the top to bottom.....but only had 5mm headroom so couldn't get them in  Even more recently I made a storage unit much like yours and assembled it in the room only to find I couldn't stand it up as the diagonal from pivot point to extremity was greater than the ceiling height   

Life is for living and learning!


Dave


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## Doctor

Certainly do, it's one of mine!!! Copyright exists.
http://www.armstrongjordan.com

Just send a blank cheque I'll fill it in and deliver in 6 months


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## Chems

Props Up Doc, thats a brilliant piece of work!


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## Doctor

Domino the boxes together.
All the carcases can be screwed together, with careful planning you dont need to fill any thing, honest.


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## PonzerZer

I built also a play room for my children. It also serves as toy storage of my children. The picture is really a nice unit to have.


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## Mike Saville

Thanks for the inspiration Doc, I hope you don't mind me using it as the basis for this  

As for that cheque . . . . .I dare say you'd want more than the £380 I've spent on materials :shock:

For an amateur like me it's as much about the process as the end result.

If anyone hasn't looked at the armstrongjordan site, I suggest you have a look - there is some really great stuff on there. If mine looks a tenth as good as some of that stuff I'll be happy.


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## Doctor

I have sent a PM.
I welcome people copying / using my ideas on home projects but do object to other companies copying designs as this is an expensive part of the project.
Thanks for your kind comments about the website.


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## latinedi

You have great toys storage for those may toys in that room. The size is just okay and it fits well in the room. But, it may be better if you can make some larger box for those larger toys too.


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## Doctor

Did you ever finish this Mike?



Hand made kitchens herts


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## emmah

Hi,

I came across this page whilst searching for playroom storage. It looks amazing and just what I need  would you consider making one and selling it?

Thanks
Emma


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