# New shop table - first one finished!!



## gidon (16 Nov 2009)

Finally made a start on the tables. See earlier threads on:

Design
Construction tips

Final design for table (think rest of the pics are self explanatory!








































Still not sure how to attach legs to top (don't want permanent fixture). Jason had a nice idea of screwing in through hole in leg bottom but don't think my arm will fit through gap! So was thinking pocket screws on the inside of leg - and maybe some dry biscuits for alignment of the top on the legs? Whayddya' reckon - any better (but quick) suggestions. Am a bit worried that screws on the inside of the legs would mean the legs could hinge on those screws if kicked from the outside. But table top is very heavy and back would also prevent this (which I'm also intending to pocket screw in)?

Cheers

Gidon


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## Oryxdesign (16 Nov 2009)

You could fit pronged T nuts into the underside of the tops of the legs. Fit a bottom to each side of the top corresponding to the width of the legs and the you can bolt through the top into the T nuts, or it might be easier to use studs and nuts.


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## gidon (16 Nov 2009)

Sorry don't understand how you bolt through the table top into the tee nuts in the legs? "Fit a bottom to each side of the top ..."??.
Would you not use pocket screws?
Also fitting the lipping - how do you normally do it - do you run the vertical filler strips flush with the top and butt the edge strips to these. Or do you make them flush the the bottom of the rebate and then mitre the edge strips? 
Thanks Si.
Cheers
Gidon


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## Oryxdesign (16 Nov 2009)

I presume you table top looks like a shallow box when turned upside down?


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## gidon (16 Nov 2009)

No it has a base flush with the bottom of the sides .
Cheers
Gidon


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## wizer (16 Nov 2009)

gidon, it might be an idea to post your drawing without the texture so the construction can be seen.


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## gidon (17 Nov 2009)

wizer - did try doing an exploded diagram but was taking too long!
Basically I'm trying to fix box legs to a box top!
Cheers
Gidon


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## Jake (17 Nov 2009)

You could still do more-or-less what Oryx was suggesting, if you shove a holesaw through the bottom of the top so you can get your hand in to get the nut onto the stud.

Small children and wheelchair users might notice the holes underneath, but you could cover them over with cable-tidies or something like that (I am assuming the open side of the base faces the shop, if not, that's irrelevant).


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## Oryxdesign (17 Nov 2009)

Jake's got the right idea, I probably wouldn't have put the bit the middle bit in but Jakes idea will work fine, if a little more fiddley.


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## jasonB (17 Nov 2009)

You could use a yankee with a magnetic bit or a couple of long extensions in the cordless that take 1/6" hex bits, I've got enough to reach about 2ft plus the length of my arm.

I did suggest the option of stopping the bottom of the table top short, see the dotted line on my sketch.

I'd do the 4 short verticals first, stopping 6mm short of the top and then run the long ones with a mitre. You could always do a 3 way mitre :wink: 

Jason


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## wizer (17 Nov 2009)

or use velcro :lol:


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## gidon (17 Nov 2009)

I did toy with leaving a gap in the base for access but thought I'd go with Jason's idea. It's just having glued up - I can't fit my arm in - doh!
I'm still not convinced pocket holes wouldn't do the job - ordered some brown plastic plugs - oh and the K3 master system  (bought it cos seem to be spending my time waiting for glue to dry!).
Screwfix sell those extensions - 300m long - so may just do it with two - might need three - not sure if that'd work though? A lot of torque on 900mm of extension!





My Yankee wouldn't reach - the legs are 800mm long - can get my wrist in but not even sure can get drill body in!
It's really heavy the top - prolly just resting on dry biscuits with the back ph'ed in would be fine!
Velcro would also be fine I'm sure!
Cheers
Gidon


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## jasonB (17 Nov 2009)

Those extensions will take a lot of load. You would find it easier if you pre screw the fixings into the table base without the legs in place so they cut the "thread" then wind them out again. If you have a hex holder for a yankee one of those will do .

Jason


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## gidon (17 Nov 2009)

Thanks Jason.
Cheers
Gidon


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## MikeG. (17 Nov 2009)

I would have thought that the easiest way would be to fit some inner stub-legs to the table top, which the outer, (main legs) fit over like a sleeve. It would then be simple to screw or bolt through to join the two together.

Mike


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## Oryxdesign (17 Nov 2009)

Good idea Mike.


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## gidon (18 Nov 2009)

Yes Mike that is a good idea. I might give that a try if my other methods don't work out.

Some more progress - sorry lots of pics (Flickr page has some descriptions) ...




















Anyone used one of these Lamello Dosicols? It says leave it overnight in the water bath - but what do you do with it if you're not going to use it for weeks or months?? 




One table is almost built - but have all the filler strips etc to finish off and plane down which is going to be time consuming. Plus I'm too messy with the glue and also have a lot of clean up!

Cheers

Gidon


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## gidon (19 Nov 2009)

This is going slooooly! How do the pros do it so quickly!

Any suggestions on finish? You know the score - quick, easy and relatively tough?? 

Again Flickr has the descriptions if needed ...










Cheers

Gidon


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## Mattty (19 Nov 2009)

Looking good Gid.

I'd be spraying it myself. Once prepped that would be very quick and easy to spray and be the hardwearing surface you want. If you don't have spray kit then... Osmo?


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## gidon (19 Nov 2009)

Thanks Matty. Do have spraying equipment but so long since I used it and even then barely knew what I was doing with it! Still possible speed is tempting ... Osmo - will look into that never used it.
Anyone know the shelf life once open of Titebond III - have run out of the new bottle and a have older bottle I opened Feb 08 - too old?
Cheers
Gidon


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## wizer (19 Nov 2009)

gidon":3ls0w6j6 said:


> Osmo - will look into that never used it.



Is good. Is very good


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## gidon (20 Nov 2009)

What are the advantages of Osmo over Liberon Finishing Oil - which I've used a lot?
Cheers
Gidon


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## bodgermatic (20 Nov 2009)

I can't compare it to the Liberon, but I can tell you that Osmo Poly-x dries very hard. I left it on a brush, now that brush makes a rapping sound when you tap the bristles on a hard surface


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## wizer (20 Nov 2009)

yep it is thicker and appears harder wearing. It's meant for floors, so it is designed to take a pounding. Smith and Rodger's Danish oil is quite good if you wanted something thinner. It's clearer than most DO's and has a slightly higher content of urethane which makes it tougher.


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## gidon (20 Nov 2009)

Thanks chaps - is it easy to apply?
Which one - is is the Poly x - have you dried the quick dry one?
Cheers
Gidon


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## wizer (20 Nov 2009)

I've only used the clear matt version. If it's a large area I tend to use a brush to apply it. Leave it five minutes and wipe it off. For my bath panel I applied about 6 coats and it's got a lovely hard sheen to it.


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## wizer (20 Nov 2009)

I think the quick drying is really only useful on flooring.


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## gidon (22 Nov 2009)

Some more WIP pics:

Descriptions on Flickr ...
































Going to give spraying a go - 1st go with back and Chestnut acrylic lacquer:




Do you need to sand between coats if sprayed?

Cheers

Gidon


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## Chems (23 Nov 2009)

A very light sand is needed, mostly to remove the inevitable bits of dust that are stuck in the finish. I sprayed the Chestnut Lacquer recently and got very good results that way. 

Build looks great so far.


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## gidon (23 Nov 2009)

Thanks Chems!
Yes had a chat with Terry - think the slightly rough texture is from dust / dry lacquer landing on the piece so will give a light sand as you suggest.
Cheers
Gidon


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## gidon (3 Dec 2009)

Time to post some more progress.

The first table is finished! I had real problems spraying the lacquer - had to sand back and try again. It still wasn't perfect but I buffed out with some steel wool and wax and it looks ok. The spray came out very patchy - the painter who was in the shop at the time (and had done some spraying) suggested it could be a problem with water based lacquer in wet cold conditions. It could be just technique of course. I'm not sure what to do now with the other pieces of furntiure - do you think an oil finish - again buffed out with wax will _look_ the same?

Anyhow came together well in the shop. Used pockets screws to pull it all together. The Maple inlay matches the floor and is meant to give the substantial look some lightness.

Again descriptions on Flickr:





























Now started on the counter - will come back to the further 2 (more likely 1 now) tables when done ...

Cheers

Gidon


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## gidon (24 Dec 2009)

Second table complete - just need to spray a few coats of lacquer ...

Pretty much made the same as the first - although used Doms for construction instead of biscuits and managed to justify some more green and black machines .























This sander is just a joy to use - even using it vertically or on thin parts it performs effortlessly - it makes my old Metabo seem like a monster:










Cheers

Gidon


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## Rknott2007 (27 Dec 2009)

Thats what i call fes-cool!


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## gidon (28 Dec 2009)

He-he .
Cheers
Gidon


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## wizer (28 Dec 2009)

he's gone festool bananas


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