# Stud Wall



## billymears (22 Oct 2010)

I know simple question, but anyone got a digram on how to build a stud wall?

Sorry its simple


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## TEO (22 Oct 2010)

billymears":2k2jtp6s said:


> I know simple question, but anyone got a digram on how to build a stud wall?
> 
> Sorry its simple



give me a pm and I'll walk/talk you through it, faster than making a drawing.
It'll be monday pm though, hope that's not too late.
T


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## Anonymous (23 Oct 2010)

just in case you want to build in this weekend.

http://www.diy-extra.co.uk/constructing_stud_wall.html


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## joiner_sim (23 Oct 2010)

Nice web link there mark. All looks to be explained there pretty well. If you have any more questions though, please post them....!


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## EdK (23 Oct 2010)

Hi billymears,
Stud work is relatively straightforward.
I've found that screws work better (for me) than nails but I was doing this at my own home in a DIY fashion -I'd imagine that if you had a nail gun it would be easier with that.
At any rate - Spax 6mm by 90mm screws with 6mm pilot holes worked good for me. I found if you go with 5mm screws the drill bit can slip sometimes.

A good crosscut/mitre saw (SCMS) will save you alot of time too. 

I think that I marked out the floor layout, screwed down the floor plate then plumbed to the ceiling plate (string with plumb) and then filled in with verticals at 400 centres for 12.5mm platerboard sheets (1200mm x 2400mm) and 36mm drywall screws.

I did one line of noggins at the centre line of the verticals but staggered.

Sometimes the wood isn't that straight so I picked through the pile that was delivered for the best ones to use for the floor and ceiling plates. The verticals are less critical I think.

At any spots where the wood is a little higher it is worth passing a scrub plane over to rough off the outcrop so that the plasterboard doesn't crack when you screw it down.

Hope that helps...
Ed


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## tom owens (23 Oct 2010)

That diy extra link uses 600mm centres for the uprights. This could be just self prefrence but i do my uprights 400mm centres.
I always pink grip the two intermediate uprights too.


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## joiner_sim (23 Oct 2010)

I would construct a stud wall with 5x100mm screws, rather than the nails. In any case when pilot holes are being drilled for screws I usually drill the hole 0.5mm smaller than the screw to give it something to "bite" on. So a 5mm screw should have a 4.5mm pilot hole.


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## Anonymous (23 Oct 2010)

pilot holing the end grain? i'm sorry thats just too much and not needed at all for this kind of joinery.

600mm centres will be perfectly fine in my opinion and a 3rd cheaper.


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## joiner_sim (23 Oct 2010)

If you don't pilot hole and you do use screws, you run the risk of splitting the timber if you are too close to the edges. Then it makes the whole thing weaker than it should be.


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## studders (24 Oct 2010)

Unless you're using Self Drilling Screws like Riesser Cutters, which are very good but not cheap, then it is better, in my experience at least, to pilot drill first. Otherwise, apart from splitting the Wood, you'll often find the screw doesn't go quite where you intended. Plus it's a lot kinder to your Cordless.


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## jasonB (24 Oct 2010)

If I do put studwork up with screws I drill clearance in the first piece of wood eg the end of the stud and let the screw fully bite into the second timber eg plate, that way you don't get any jacking and the screw will pull the joint up tight. Nail gun is quicker though.

If this is just a simple partition to divide a room it may be easier to make it flat on the ground so you can nail/screw through the plates into the ends of the studs and then stand the partition upright, shim the top where you fix into the ceiling as you need to make it about 5mm short so it stands up OK.

Jason


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## joiner_sim (24 Oct 2010)

Building it on the floor would be how i'd construct it.


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## Lons (25 Oct 2010)

By far the easiest and quickest way IMO is build in situ using a mitre saw for accurate square cuts and a paslode 350. (Hire or borrow if you don't have one)

Obviously be careful not to hit service pipes or wiring and if a concrete floor / solid walls, drilling straight through timber into brick or block then hammer fixings work very well.

Absolute doddle to put up a very strong stud wall without a helper. i use a couple of cheap adjustable supports to hold up the ceiling plate initially.

I've done hundreds using this method!

Bob


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## Shane (25 Oct 2010)

mark270981":1us4136g said:


> just in case you want to build in this weekend.
> 
> http://www.diy-extra.co.uk/constructing_stud_wall.html



I do mine as per the diagram on this link, with the addition of two extra short uprights above the door clapped to the uprights to make it easier to pick up the plasterboard 

I also prefer to do 400mm centres, and pilot and screw


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## Lons (26 Oct 2010)

Shane":32ttzfsy said:


> mark270981":32ttzfsy said:
> 
> 
> > just in case you want to build in this weekend.
> ...



hi Shane

Just looked at the link and that's exactly as I construct mine except like you, I use 400mm centres.
I use 90mm paslode nails skewed - 2 on one side of an upright and 1 centr fron the other side. using the nailgun means it doesn't move and once nailed is absolutely solid.

When I first bought the gun, i felt I had to use it to get my moneys' worth but it's paid for it'self several times over.

Cheers

bob


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## billymears (26 Oct 2010)

Thanks Everyone, will let you know the progress


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## Shane (26 Oct 2010)

Lons":2j3qyxlz said:


> I use 90mm paslode nails skewed - 2 on one side of an upright and 1 centr fron the other side. using the nailgun means it doesn't move and once nailed is absolutely solid.
> 
> When I first bought the gun, i felt I had to use it to get my moneys' worth but it's paid for it'self several times over.
> 
> ...



Paslodes are my pet hate, I've never found them reliable enough, the battery terminals are rubbish. Sorry but I just don't get on with them. Also I don't do enough site carpentry to make the outlay worthwhile


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