# 'ageing' pine / softwoods



## condeesteso (20 Dec 2013)

Any ideas please? There are constraints of course!
I need it for work surfaces that will have a fairly hard life (desk-tops, not workbench type hard). So a wax surface is probably not good, I assume it would wear through. I've seen Le Salvager use a dark wax liberally to good effect but not here I think.
I tested Pottasium permanganate solution but don't like the effect - too brown, whereas I think old pine goes a bit greyish, even a little greenish (hue, not actual colour).
I probably need something that penetrates surface. The final top finish might be either a flooring-grade acrylic or Osmo top oil (like the semi-matt finish and it seems durable).
Any experience or thoughts please?


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## marcros (20 Dec 2013)

I would have thought an acid would be a suitable ager. I had in mind oxalic, but a Google found this http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine- ... cid-report 

I have the Jeff Jowett book at home. I am not sure whether it covers it- will have a look this evening.


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## condeesteso (21 Dec 2013)

Thanks Mark - had a look at the FW article, sounds promising although his description of colour sounds quite brown still. He does refer to old pine look though.
Need to find a local source for nitric acid in smaller volumes, just to test. Don't know about oxalic, will do a bit of research. For simplicity I was wondering if an oil-based stain may be out there. The volume of aged pine furniture coming in from Eastern Europe (I think) suggests there is a production-friendly way of doing this maybe??


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## marcros (21 Dec 2013)

you could take it down your local sunbed centre and hit it with UV light- i dont know if it will work, but Essex is just down the road!

my limited experience with stain only extends to water based, and i believe that the idea is that you can dial in a colour, layer by layer. add a bit of grey hue etc etc.

Acid in small volumes may be a nightmare- fertilizer disolved in water might work maybe, there would be some ammonia in it too, which could be good or bad. I tried to source some hydro floric acid for glass etching without success.


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## AndyT (21 Dec 2013)

It's an interesting question. In my opinion, if you look closely at the mass produced pine furniture, you won't like it. I think the problem comes from the structure of pine, having marked differences between stain absorption in the hard and soft wood. So nothing will really match the long term effect of UV light. 

Before I knew about any alternatives I used to finish my woodwork projects with thinned down polyurethane as a surface protector, with wax on top to make it feel nice. I still have some things made that way and I think they look OK now that the wood has darkened naturally under the clear finish.


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## Hudson Carpentry (21 Dec 2013)

I use caurstic acid although I don't know how to spell it. The old drain cleaner stuff. Mix with water in a spray bottle and spray on. After 2 to 3 times it starts looking a natural antique pine colour. Then finish with a clear pu.


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## Harbo (21 Dec 2013)

We have an antique pine kitchen table which I would describe as honey coloured?
I used to use Sam Maloof's mixture but found thinned down PU varnish followed by wax worked just as well and a lot easier to make?

Rod


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## JustBen (21 Dec 2013)

Give it to the kids. They can make anything looked aged in a matter of minutes.


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## Peter Sefton (21 Dec 2013)

I dont know much about ageing pine but try Hannants I believe they make finishing products for the pine trade http://www.hannants.com/pine-wood-stain
The others I would ring is AG Woodcare I like these Blanchon products http://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/Item/blanch ... eing_agent

Peter


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## condeesteso (23 Dec 2013)

Many thanks everyone. I'm quite sure you are right Andy, I won't much like it - but it's for an office reception and they want that aged pine look (to go with other stuff they have in there), so I don't need to live with it  
As I am reluctant to mess about with acids etc (though caustic soda is interesting, got some of that around) I am going to look more closely at Hannants - good range and they seem to specialise in this kind of thing. I noted a trick to mist the bare surface with water first to raise the grain, leave to dry then final sand, then apply the colour.
I'm sure we have to accept that there is no perfect substitute for genuine age and exposure - close will have to do.


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## Peter Sefton (24 Dec 2013)

I damp my work 99% of the time during final sanding, I find it raises the grain and small dents, shows glue up and any scratches. If this is not done before any water staining then the water stain does it for you and the knock on effects are hard to recover from. 
Good luck with Hannants and the project. 
Cheers Peter


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