# Advise please, how to build this coffee table?



## Pietro_2003 (18 Apr 2007)

Hi all, 

I am venturing into my first piece of amateur furniture and don't know if I am getting in over my head with this one. 

I am a graphic designer and continually get ideas of furniture designs and thought it's about time I do something about it. Though, at the moment I don't have the cash to get a professional to make it, so I thought I'd give it a go myself. 

Firstly, can this design be done with basic woodworking techniques the average Joe would have at home... i.e., me? 

It is a coffee table not exactly this design, but same 'hollow' technique would be used. My guess is to make the 'U' sides out of MDF or ply (stiffer?) and somehow bend a 'skin' around them. I saw on a renovating show on TV something that looks like ply that has the 'backside' sliced part way through allowing the sheet to be placed over curved shapes (sides of a round table for example). 

If you think this would work then would it be enough to use just these 3 items (the 2 'U' shaped sides plus the bend-able sheets of 'whatever'), or would I have to make some sort of frame to strengthen the structure... any engineers out there?

Or is it simply one for the 'too hard basket' to be left to a professional?

Any help would be much appreciated,

Regards, Petter.

Edit: seems the server didn't like my link... any suggestions on how to get it to work? Thanks.


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## Slim (18 Apr 2007)

Pietro_2003":3kenzj98 said:


>



Welcome to the forum.

you were caught by the spam filter as it is your first post. 

As it is your first piece, I would leave that design well alone. I would have thought that steam bending and laminations would be the way to go. I wouldn't attempt something like that.


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## Newbie_Neil (19 Apr 2007)

Hi Petter

Welcome to the forum.

Cheers
Neil


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## Wanlock Dod (19 Apr 2007)

Petter,

I'm not sure that it would be all that hard if you were to make it in "bendy" MDF over C shaped formers. It might require a more gentle radius on the inside curves though. Once you'd made the basic structure you might then be able to veneer it, although I expect that would be rather tricky.

That said, I'm sure that there are easier first projects but I think its good to persevere to make what you want to make, rather than settle for something which is easily made. Swings and roundabouts I suppose.

Cheers,

Dod


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## Steve Maskery (19 Apr 2007)

HI Petter
That is a challenging piece to get right with "basic woodworking techniques the average Joe would have at home", but it is possible. I'd forget the skin idea, I don't see how you can press it without special kit.

If I were making this with basic techniques, I'd build it as a coopered structure, the wood going the width of the table, and creating the curves as a series of faceted joints (a tablesaw would help here). I could then round it off with a plane (though I'd need a hollow plane for the insides).

If you are painting it, the other ooption is to laminate a whole load of ply layers, template-routed to the same shape, then sand, cover with Gesso and paint.

NIce design and welcome to the forum.
Cheers
Steve


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## Pietro_2003 (19 Apr 2007)

Thanks for the replies! 

Great to hear your comments, the pros and the cons. I am still interested to see if I can make it work, provided I can find a flexible enough 'skin' that will be smooth in the curves. Depends on what the lumber market here (Sweden) offers. 

As Steve mentioned, maybe I can find a thin ply that will have enough flex for the 'inside' curve. The smallest curve at the top will probably have to be shaped from a solid. I have pretty much been resigned to having a paint finish, as applying veneers would certainly be a challenge. 

After speaking to a surfing mate today I realised that, depending on finding a ply flexible enough, I could finish up with layers of fibre glass to give it enough rigidity, if the laminating process proved to be too difficult. But this would be last the last-chance option... and probably blasphemy to you guys :wink: would also lose any wooden charm/feel/sound to the table. 

I'll add updates when and if the project takes off.

Thanks, Petter.


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## Wanlock Dod (20 Apr 2007)

Petter,

A composite construction (i.e. fibreglass or similar) might lend itself quite well to this structure, although I'm not sure I could do with all of the mould making personally. Also, I agree that wood woud probably give a nicer "feel" to the table.

Steve's idea of coopering it sounds like a good one, although it might need quite thick timber to make a reasonably sized table (10 cm or more for a 40-45 cm high table?).

Best of luck.

Cheers,

Dod


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## Steve Maskery (21 Apr 2007)

Dod,
I don't think you need such thick timber:





This could easily be made from 2.5" timber, I think. Sure it's not as efficient as using 4" stuff and flipping over between bevel cuts, but it's certainly possible.

Cheers
Steve


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## jasonB (21 Apr 2007)

I would go with Dod's method of talf a dozen "C" shaped ribs which could be template cut with a router and then skin with Flexible pre veneered board, make the two ends fron solid and then face the two flat sides with veneer.

Jason


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## Steve Maskery (21 Apr 2007)

Jason
I agree that that is a good way to construct it, but how are you going to press the skin on something that shape with "ordinary" workshop tools? That's the challenge, surely? You'd need some pretty complex clamping cauls, wouldn't you?

In contrast, although there is a lot of work finishing the shape, the glue up of staves is straightforward, as you can strap them together with gaffer tape and then just fold them together, like gluing up a mitred box.

Explain how you would clamp the skin and I'll concede 

CHeers
Steve, who's feeling better enough to get into an argument (a friendly one, anyway).


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## jasonB (21 Apr 2007)

I think it can be done with very few clamps

For strength I would use two layers of flexi MDF, the first one can just be glued and pinned to the ribs. These can then be coated with glue before applying the veneered boards as follows

Outer surface - The board can simply be wrapped around the outside and held in place with strap clamps while the glue sets up, if required a flat caul can be clamped to the flat bottom area to hold that smooth and an offcut of flexi board to spread the load from the clamps across the curve.

Inner Surface - The board can again be held to the flat central section with a flat caul and the two curved sections will spring into the concave curves and be retained with F/G clamps.

Ends - I would use half round sections of solid timber 

Sides once all has set trim the flexi board flush to the outer ribs and then veneer the surface.

I Have nothing against your coopering method, just suggested another method that would only require a few handheld power tools - jigsaw and router.

On the other hand you could always chop it out of solid timber like I did (on a smaller scale ) for this modelbase :wink: 

Jason


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## Nick W (21 Apr 2007)

I'm pretty much with Jason on this one, in fact I nearly suggested the same method, but he pipped me to it. The only place I would differ is the ends - as long as the panels will bend to that radius I don't see the need for the ends to be solid. It will need careful work to pull it off, particularly where the boards join, but not too much on the way of specialist tooling.


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## Pietro_2003 (22 Apr 2007)

I have to thank you for continuing the discussion. I feel much more confident in giving this project a good go. Much will depend on finding the right materials around town. 

Provided I can find a flexible enough 'outer' and 'inner' surface I will try the ribs and 'skin' version. 

If you don't mind I'd like to run a few specs by you to make sure I make it strong enough: Construction-wise I'd go with either 1) two ribs with horizontals to provide stability of horizontal surfaces (see pic), OR 2) three ribs to provide even support throughout the whole curve and shorten the gap between the end ribs. The first option might leave 'soft spots' in the surface depending on how many laminate layers and horizontal 'beams' I put on. 




Thickness of MDF ribs? Would 15mm do it or should it be thicker? Is it enough to just glue the laminate 'skin' surface on or should I nail it too? Being a (almost) first job I won't attemp to finish it with veneers. I'll do a tidy job with Gesso and paint. 

I helped my father make (certain aspects) of his 32 foot huen pine sailing boat when I was much younger, so I understand what patience and attention to detail is. So I hope that carries me through this project.

Regards, Petter

Disclaimer: Unfortunately, the design I have shown isn't my own idea. I saw it on TV and dug it, and thought I'd like to do something in that style. My design will be somewhat different, I'll post pics when it's finished in a few months.


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## jasonB (22 Apr 2007)

On the 600mm width I would go for a rib spacing of 150-200mm, this would give 4 or 5 ribs including the two sides. The ribs will also need holding in place while you fix the skin, I would use the "spars" that you have shown in pic 1. 

I made this curved bed head using ribs at 300mm with 6mm flexi ply then 6mm veneered ply and there is some spring between the ribs, nice for resting your head against but not so good for a table.

As far as rib materials go I would opt for plywood at least 18mm thick as it will be best to pin the first layer of Flexi MDF, 15mm MDF ribs will not hold the pins very well into edge "grain"

Just out of interest the latest issue of F&C dropped on the mat today and there is a table by David Savage that uses the Coopered/block method, several with the same construction on his site.

Jason


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## Pietro_2003 (22 Apr 2007)

jasonB":1hnccrqk said:


> On the 600mm width I would go for a rib spacing of 150-200mm, this would give 4 or 5 ribs including the two sides.



Perfect, just what I was after. 

Checked out David Savage's site... amazingly inspirational stuff. 

Thanks.


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## Shultzy (23 Apr 2007)

Just a thought - cut the shape out of 18mm mdf , glue together, and veneer. It might be a bit heavy, 33 pieces needed, but with a pattern and a bearing guided router bit it would be easy to construct.


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## promhandicam (23 Apr 2007)

Shultzy":1l8ulc49 said:


> Just a thought - cut the shape out of 18mm mdf , glue together, and veneer. It might be a bit heavy, 33 pieces needed, but with a pattern and a bearing guided router bit it would be easy to construct.



. . . . or, if you don't mind the look of ply do the same with 25 pieces of 24mm birch ply and don't bother with veneering. I think that it could actually look quite good and would certainly be easy to do.

Steve


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## Anonymous (23 Apr 2007)

Hi Petter

If this is your first piece of furniture, then i would have to suggest you put it to one side for a while and develop skills and techniques on simpler pieces. this one would not be too easy to doa good job of without some experience of building beforehand


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