# Mitre spline jig



## marcros (6 Jun 2014)

I want to make a mitre spline jig. 

I have in mind http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking ... ter-joint/ but want to use it for things ranging from picture frame thickness, to a 6" high box, ie it needs to be adjustable. 

Would I be better to cut the bottom off the jig in the link, so that an inch of corner is exposed, and I move the fence to move position or to make one that runs in the mitre slots with a single kerf exposed and move the box along to vary the spline position.


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## beech1948 (6 Jun 2014)

I'm also thinking of building a mitre jig.

I like the idea of using the saw fence simply because it will hold the piece up at 90 degrees, piece can be clamped and it will provide more accurate positioning...provided you do each piece all the way round at each setting.

The idea of using the mitre fence seems to me a bit less accurate with more likelihood of having the piece out of position slightly as well as being harder to hand hold in position.

Al


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## Glynne (6 Jun 2014)

You might want to have a look at Getwoodworking videos - Peter Dunsmore makes one.


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## Steve Maskery (7 Jun 2014)

My jig for that purpose runs in the mitre track, like a cross-cut sled. The advantage of that is that it is supported all along its width, not just at one side. That way it can be made quite wide so that deep boxes can be cut, supported all along their height. It has built-in adjustable stops for repeatability, too.
Also it has a blade cover so that the blade is never exposed in use - the one in the link requires the use of an unguarded blade. I don't need to put a link here to Dr Bob's current thread, do I?

S


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## Glynne (2 Jul 2014)

The post reminded me that I needed to make a new jig and I've copied Peter Dunsmore's design for use in a router table to replace an old Heath Robinson design of my own - which worked well but I wouldn't dare post a picture of it.





As I was at it, I also fettled my sanding jig for mitres.




Vertical sanding as opposed to adjusting the table and horizontal sanding to minimise the difference in sanding speeds at each end of the piece (as per Andrew Crawford).


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## marcros (2 Jul 2014)

Excellent job. I have been swamped with work work so haven't been into my workshop for 3 weeks! I haven't even fired up my new planer thicknesser yet.


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## Glynne (2 Jul 2014)

Thanks Mark.
Not that you probably need any more details but it is on Video 1 of Peter's Box Making series if you want to have a look.
Peter uses dovetail keys which I've never tried and I'm not totally convinced I like the effect but it is an extra option.
There is no reason why you couldn't use the jig on a table saw but you would have to remove the guard (sorry Steve) although your hands should be nowhere near the blade.


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## marcros (2 Jul 2014)

I am racking my brains for a nice looking joint that is easy to cut and clamp, isn't dovetails and isn't the mitre with splines. I have a couple of ideas but the mitre splines is quite a straightforward option and allows the grain to flow without interruption. The other option is a rebated joint and covering the small bit of endgrain with a trim piece. It is quick and easy but interrupts the grain wrapping and it wonder if it looks a bit cobbled together. No complaints on boxes I have done that way though.


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## Glynne (2 Jul 2014)

A rebated joint with some banding can look really good and I'm not sure it disturbs the grain flow much more than the mitred corner. Andrew Crawford certainly uses the technique and explained it to me several years ago when I spent a couple of days with him. Have a look at his site to give yourself an idea.


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## Steve Maskery (2 Jul 2014)

Glynne":tvvlni4c said:


> There is no reason why you couldn't use the jig on a table saw but you would have to remove the guard (sorry Steve)



I use the same jig on a table saw and I do so safely. It is quite true that you have to remove the crown guard. There is nothing wrong with that, go ahead, they are a pain in the posterior. But make sure that you guard the blade in a way that does not stop you you using the jig. My jig is pretty much the same except that I have a tunnel guard built in to it. It's the best of both worlds.

We have had instances of two experienced woodworkers on this very forum injuring themselves on TSs recently. Don't join the club by using an unguarded blade. You may not get off as lightly as they did.

S


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