# Jet AFS-500 air filter PCB repair – help please.



## Jack (W) (11 Oct 2015)

Last December my Jet AFS-500 air filter developed a fault causing the motor to run in an underpowered, sickly sort of way. Whilst the remote control commands were acknowledged by a ‘beep’ from the sounder on the PCB, the appropriate LEDs only illuminated dimly and they flickered rapidly (50Hz?). 

I spent £58 on a replacement PCB from Axminster, and so far the air filter is working fine. But as the replacement PCB is identical to the one with the fault (i.e. not a new improved version) I thought it might be prudent to repair the faulty one if I can, but I could do with a bit of help please as my knowledge of electronics is rather rudimentary.

The faulty PCB is on my workbench and for safety reasons I’ve no intention of connecting it to the mains at any time other than when I put it back into the air filter to see if I’ve rectified the fault.

I’ve examined the PCB (no visible faults) and I’ve produced a partial circuit diagram showing the components between the mains AC input and the low voltage output to the logic and control section of the circuit (5 volts DC). 







To try to determine if the fault lay in the logic and control section I hooked up my bench PSU to points TP1 and TP2 on the circuit diagram, set the output to 5 volts, and tested the PCB for responses to commands from the infra-red remote control and from the PCB mounted buttons.

The responses were perfect. The appropriate LEDs illuminated at full brilliance with no flicker and the buzzer ‘beeped’ in response to all control commands.






This led me to believe that a stable 5 volt DC supply was not being created by the PCB components, and so as a first stab at fixing the fault I replaced C8 – the 1,000uF 16v reservoir capacitor, to see if that was the culprit – but it wasn’t. 

My gut feeling was, and is, that the fault lies closer to the mains input, and so I checked those components that I could.

Diode D1 (1N4007) works correctly.
For the time being I’m assuming Zener Diode ZD1 (5v6 1W) also works correctly. 
R15 resistance is correct at 200k Ohm. 
The combined resistance of R1 and R1A, which are wired in parallel, correctly measures 50 Ohms. 
The fuse is intact. 
The resistance across resistor VAR measures 5M Ohm, which I take to be correct. 
For the time being I’m also assuming yellow capacitor C1 works correctly.
I do not know what component BF1 is, but I guess it might be a filter, and for the time being I’m assuming it works as intended.






All of which leaves the large black rectangular capacitor C2 – marked “105k 400VAC” as my prime suspect at this stage.






Unfortunately I can’t find a 105k 400VAC capacitor in the Farnell / CPC /RS / catalogues – least, not as I recognise it, and so I wondered if anyone here might know where I can get one.

I’d also be grateful for any comments, suggestions or advice you may be able to offer.

Many thanks,
Jack


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## Racers (12 Oct 2015)

105K is a 1uF capactior. 
I think your diagrame is wrong a fuse across the supply can't be right.

Pete


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## Jack (W) (12 Oct 2015)

Pete, thank you for your reply.

I’ve used Photoshop to superimpose the fuse and component VAR on top of a view of the tracks, so I hope you can see that my circuit diagram is correct. 






Component VAR is a CNR07D471k Metal Oxide Varistor, and I believe it serves as a safety device in the circuit. 

As I understand it, under normal operating conditions the Varistor presents a very high impedance, effectively isolating the fuse from Mains line AC 1.
However, should the mains voltage for some reason become excessively high, the Varistor impedance will fall dramatically and place the fuse across Mains lines AC1 and AC2, and as a consequence the fuse should blow. Once that happens I imagine the Varistor will return to a high impedance state.

Jack


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## Racers (12 Oct 2015)

O/k 
Well change C2 and see if it works, connecting mains to it and checking the voltage across the zener would be my next move, dangerous I know, do you have a isolalation transformer?

Pete


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## Woody2Shoes (12 Oct 2015)

I suppose the fuse makes some kind of sense if AC2 is the phase(live) and AC1 is the neutral.

Triacs are not indestructible IME - they don't like any kind of inductive component in the load. I'd try and test them - here's some clues: http://www.circuitstoday.com/how-to-test-a-triac

Cheers, W2S


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## Jack (W) (13 Oct 2015)

Pete, 
Unfortunately I don't have an isolation transformer, and I can't find a suitable 1uF 450VAC capacitor (or higher rated) in the UK at a sensible price. An EPCOS B32674D8105K capacitor from Farnell (only found by searching for that manufacturer's code) costs £7.55 plus £15.95 handling charge due to it being "US Stock" - plus VAT.

I can buy the same EPCOS B32674D8105K capacitor from DigiKey or Mouser in the USA for £1.62, but the shipping cost is £12.


W2S,
Thanks for your timely guide to checking triacs. I've now done that and they're fine.


Circuit Diagram Correction: Component D1 is a 1N4007 diode, not a 1N4001 as indicated on the diagram.

Jack


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## Skeety (14 Oct 2015)

Hi,

Here is a link to an EPCOS one, 1uF rated at 630V delivered for just over a fiver:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EPCOS-B32674D ... 2a593a4200

Hope that's of use, good luck with fixing it.

Jon.


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## Jack (W) (14 Oct 2015)

Jon,
That's really great - thank you.
Jack


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## Skeety (14 Oct 2015)

No worries,

It's been many years since I have done PCB repairs but your logic is sound. Something is pulling the 5v low, most likely a cap.

However, due to the board being in a unit that suffers vibration and dust I would inspect every soldered joint under a magnifying glass. To be honest, for the size of the board I would work through it, de solder and re-solder every joint. Looks like it's been flow soldered originally and I have seen faults induced by these joints when used in environments with heat\vibration\dust. Even if it doesn't fix it you know then that it's not a resistive joint causing issues and something else to rule out 

Cheers,

Jon.


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## gnelson (28 Nov 2015)

Hi Jack,

Did the EPCOS capacitor fix the problem? I have the same model, and it has developed the same fault. It is only about 18 months old, and can only have done a few hundred hours. The motor all looks fine, so I am suspecting the PCB. It would be good to know if the capacitor is the likely suspect- my soldering skills can strectch to that!

Thanks,

Glyn.


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## Jack (W) (28 Nov 2015)

Hi Glyn,

Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear that your Jet air filter has developed the same fault.

A highly qualified “Yes” in answer to your question - in that the black capacitor C2 was undoubtedly the faulty component on my PCB, for replacing it with the EPCOS B32674D6105K capacitor restored the PCB to proper working order. 
I determined this by electrically connecting the repaired PCB to the fan unit and operating the remote control buttons over a period of ten minutes or so, though I did not run it long enough to check the 2/4/8 hour time-out periods. 












Now I’ve refrained from posting a claim that I’ve fixed the fault because there are a few aspects about this ‘fix’ that bother me.

I don’t understand the circuit diagram sufficiently well to know if capacitor C2 is effectively across the Live and Neutral mains input, but I think it almost certainly is. 

I note that the faulty capacitor was rated at 400 volts AC, whereas the EPCOS capacitor is rated at 630 volts (OK in itself) but DC. If I’ve picked up the gist of the data sheet correctly (a little late in the day perhaps) then it seems the EPCOS capacitor has been designed for use in DC circuits, not AC.

So although the EPCOS capacitor clearly worked in this circuit during my limited testing, I do not know if it will be prone to failure, nor do I know what the consequences of its failure might be.

Really wish I could confidently say: “This is what you need…” but I’m sorry, as yet I can’t .

Jack


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## RogerS (29 Nov 2015)

I too had a problem with this PCB on my Jet. It's been replaced but every so often, even though switched off, the motor will buzz a bit and sort of start to rotate but then stop. Given both of our experiences I reckon this is a duff designed PCB.


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## stuartpaul (30 Nov 2015)

Me too!

Just installed a replacement PCB provided (FOC) by Axminster for a 14 month old device.

It has sorted the problem but with less than 70 ish hours of operation I'm sort of wondering how long before this ones goes as it looks identical?

The nice man from Axminster said the sales to faults ratio wasn't big enough to warrant concern on their part but nice to know they are as always happy to support.


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## Racers (30 Nov 2015)

Jack (W)":1968zc5q said:


> Hi Glyn,
> 
> 
> 
> ...



All capacitors work on AC signals so don't worry about the DC rating, as long as the voltage across the capacitor isn't over the maximum then its going to be o/k.


Pete


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## gnelson (30 Nov 2015)

Thanks for the info. I spent a good bit of time reading about capacitors and how they are rated. Yes, using Ac is fine, it is just whether the manufacturer has tested them for AC or not. The conversion from DC to AC is a bit complex, partly depending on the material type of the capacitor. I found a polypropylene example on RS (part 441-9701) which said it was 630 VDC and 370vAC (incorrectly labelled as both AC on the sales page, but explained correctly in the pdf), which means that it would be a bit low. I've found and ordered part no. 882-9313 from RS, which I think should do the job fine (750V DC). It was the largest VDC rating that will fit in the space on the PCB and not too deep to prevent me refitting the board in the housing.

I'll see how it goes.

Glyn


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## RogerS (30 Nov 2015)

Jack (W)":1zfn8zkx said:


> .....
> I don’t understand the circuit diagram sufficiently well to know if capacitor C2 is effectively across the Live and Neutral mains input, but I think it almost certainly is.
> 
> ....
> ...



You are correct and I think that by replacing it you did fix the problem. Capacitors have an impedance (think of it as a resistance to AC) and that depends on the value of the capacitor and the AC frequency. The impedance of a 1uF cap. at 50Hz is about 3k and so in conjunction with the other circuitry sort of acts as a potential divider with the 240v mains being split across the capacitor and the rest of the circuit that derives the rough DC (D1) and then the more accurate DC by the zener (ZD1). So if C2 had gone open circuit then that 3k impedance is gone and in its place is that 200k resistor ...which leaves precious little voltage for generating your 5v. 

Hope that makes sense.


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## Jack (W) (30 Nov 2015)

My grateful thanks to everyone for helping me resolve the problem with the Jet PCB, and for putting my mind to rest over the suitability of the replacement capacitor.

Jack


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## gnelson (2 Dec 2015)

I'd like to echo Jack's thanks to everyone. My replacement capacitors arrived from RS today. A quick spot of soldering and my air filter is working again! If it is a fault with the PCB design, RS only sold the capacitors in packs of 5, so I have another 4 to go through before havign to buy more. Definitely cheaper than a replacement PCB from JET, and I'd rather not throw good money after bad to Jet, given the number of people with the same fault on this model. For info for anyone else, I bought Capacitor PP B32674 1uF 750Vdc, Stock no.: 8829313 from RS supplies.

Much happier getting back to my carpentry with the filter running again! Cheers,

Glyn


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## chrisrm (7 Jan 2016)

Add another  to this most helpful thread; She Who Must Be Obeyed's AFS-500 filter is back to running properly again, thanks to this bit of work. I found the legs on the RS capacitors too short to go through the PCB, so chopping the originals off close to the dead cap and then soldering to the legs worked a treat. =D> 

Many thanks,

Chris M


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## Jack (W) (7 Jan 2016)

Hi Chris,

Welcome to the forum, and thank you for taking the trouble to add your experiences to this thread. I’m really glad that the help provided by members here has enabled you to repair your air filter too.

Jack


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## Polarbilly (8 Jan 2016)

Thanks to everyone here for their input. We have 3 of these in our Club that are 5 years old and have failed, and one of our members has an 18 month old one that has also gone....think I'll be making good use of the RS 5 pack

Best Regards

Bill
BWTC


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## Jack (W) (8 Jan 2016)

Bill, welcome and thank you for adding to this thread. I hope this fix will restore all your filters to proper working order - please let us know how you get along.

Jack


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## RogerS (10 Jan 2016)

Polarbilly":itih4pvf said:


> Thanks to everyone here for their input. We have 3 of these in our Club that are 5 years old and have failed, and one of our members has an 18 month old one that has also gone....think I'll be making good use of the RS 5 pack
> 
> Best Regards
> 
> ...



That's a pretty damning indictment of the lousy design of Jet electronics !


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## Racers (11 Jan 2016)

The design works it's just the accountants pushing for the cheapest component. 

Pete


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## Polarbilly (2 Feb 2016)

Hi,
out of the 4 we had faulty, replacing the capacitor restored 2 to full health. Unfortunately, we have one that has completely died and the other makes all the right noises and flashes the correct diodes but exerts no control whatsoever,just turns on and runs at one speed when plugged in. Fortunately we had a spare remote control adaptor and we now control with this until we can figure where to look next...

thanks again for all your help

Bill
BWTC


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## Jack (W) (4 Feb 2016)

Thanks for the update Bill. I’m pleased you’ve managed to repair two of your Jet air filters and they’re now working as they should.

Concerning the other two filters, if the fuse has blown on the ‘dead’ air filter’s PCB that would prevent the motor from running and the control circuitry from responding to commands, so as a first step it might be worth double-checking the fuse to see if that’s where the fault lies.

As for the remaining ‘one-speed’ air filter I guess the fault could be either on the PCB or with the motor unit, so trying the suspect PCB in a ‘good’ filter would hopefully identify which of the two to investigate further. 

Please let us know how you get along.

Jack


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## iandean (22 Mar 2016)

Hi Guys,

Complete novice but here goes...

Just reading through the the posts on this thread... you lot are the bomb.

I too have one of these machines that has... check this, done 1 hours work and developed the same fault as most of the posts but exactly the same as rogers's problem. 

When pressing the buttons on the machine or using the remote, they don't ramp up the speed very much at all. Though I originally bought this machine in 2012, it has only done i hours work on low speed. 

A long term illness and things on the house have turned a short term shop set-up into a long term shop set-up :evil: I had just switched on the unit to check it and had the same problem as all of you guys. The motor just doesn't get up to anything more than a gentle spin on low, med, or hi. Even on high you can still make out every single fin on the motor fan when viewed through the rear vent.

It did the same thing as rogersS when it was moved to the ceiling about a year ago i.e. even though it was switched off, it was making a grumbling noise and trying to spin the impeller.

Am wondering if replacing the cap with the mentioned RS on will sort mine. 

Had a radge at Axminster tech guy over time versus use... deaf ears as you would expect. Said capacitor would be £17:40 but out of stock anyway for at least 5 to 6 weeks. I asked if this was a common fault and tech said he had never come across it before. Yeah... I bet.

Thanks fellas in advance if you could help a complete novice. Am completely fine with soldering etc.

Kind regards
Ian Dean


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## gnelson (22 Mar 2016)

Hi Ian,

Definitely sounds like the capacitor replacement would fix it. And put it this way, we're only talking of being a few quid out of pocket if it doesn't work, whereas otherwise you have a glorified metal lump that actually collects dust on top, rather than in the filters!

Good luck.

Glyn


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## iandean (22 Mar 2016)

Thanks g,

I know... don't mind a few quid, it's the principle that narks the rubbish out of you isn't it? Tech at Axmin said cap £17:40 or board £48:00 don't know if that is +vat or including vat.

Couldn't believe this after only an hour on low... what a piece of Chinese rubbish? 

Was going to inspect the joints with an eye loupe before ordering RS cap, or pack of 5 did someone say? Don't think I will be re-soldering all of them to check though as another member suggested. 

Thank you for the input g
Ian


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## iandean (31 Mar 2016)

Hi Guys,

Just a quick message to say thank you for the help in this post. 

A very nice man, not connected to Axm------ directly, sent me out a new PCB as a gesture of goodwill, and it is now running as it should be. Happy days. Proper customer service, a rare commodity these days.

I might try the RS capacitor fix and keep that one as a spare for when, I mean if it happens again :-# 

So thank you all for the help and I will now use this forum as my go to and see if I can help others with other posts.

Kind regards

Ian


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## RogerS (21 Jun 2016)

I think this thread should be made a sticky!

My Jet has started paying up again with exactly the same fault as before and this replacement board isn't that old.


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## ColeyS1 (21 Jun 2016)

Sounds more like jet should be sending out replacement circuit boards !

Coley


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## andys wood shed (21 Jun 2016)

My low usage Jet is on its second board (1st one replaced by Axminster as a gesture of good will)
And has started playing up again

Guess RS will be seeing another order


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## RogerS (21 Jun 2016)

andys wood shed":114gd527 said:


> My low usage Jet is on its second board (1st one replaced by Axminster as a gesture of good will)
> And has started playing up again
> 
> Guess RS will be seeing another order



Andy, I've ordered a set of 5 and you're welcome to one.

Even though you're a cyclist  :wink:


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## EddyCurrent (16 Dec 2016)

Another happy reader here, I found this thread yesterday, ordered the capacitors from RS, they arrived today and the unit was fixed in 10 minutes.

I tested the motor as part of the diagnosis so I've attached the readings here, they will be handy if the motor is suspected.

Many thanks Jack for taking the time to post this.

Edit: I forgot to mention, I checked the faulty capacitor and instead of measuring 1uF it measured 0.35 uF


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## Jack (W) (16 Dec 2016)

Hi, 
It's great to know that this fix worked for you too, thanks for letting us know. 
Thanks too for the motor winding resistance values. 
Regards,
Jack


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## yanky (9 Jan 2017)

Is there any reason why this has to be a 750 - 900v capacitor. Wouldn't a 305v capacitor of the same value (1uF) work too?


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## Racers (9 Jan 2017)

No, unless its rated at 305V AC, you need to half the DC rating to get the equivalent AC rating as the voltage swings between positive and negative, so effectively doubling the voltage across the capacitor, then add the fact that its the RMS voltage and you have to multiply it by 1.414 to get the peak AC voltage.

Its a hard working part it needs a good quality capacitor.

Pete


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## RogerS (9 Jan 2017)

Racers":3hy5uv2d said:


> ....
> Its a hard working part it needs a good quality capacitor.
> 
> Pete



Pity Jet didn't listen to their engineers.


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## yanky (10 Jan 2017)

Understood, thanks!


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## gayle (21 Feb 2017)

Hi I'm having a similar problem I have the afs 1000b It will not switch on via the remote but I can turn on manually there is no loss of power on all 3 speeds just the remote will not work is it the pcb board or could it be the remote the batteries are brand new please help thanks for any help
Gayle


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## Jack (W) (21 Feb 2017)

Hi Gayle,

Please see this topic and let us know if it helps in respect of testing your remote control: 

replacement-jet-air-filtration-remote-t103270.html

Jack


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## Tetsuaiga (23 Mar 2017)

Just fixed mine using the ebay part linked. Very useful to have found this topic or I might of ended up buying a new one.


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## davebray (4 Jul 2017)

My Jet AFS 500 had the same symptoms as described earlier in this topic chain. I replaced capacitor C2 with recommended one, as sold on Ebay, and the filter now works flawlessly. IMO it works much better than when it was brand new.
Many thanks to Jack for solving this for me.
Cheers Dave


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## Jack (W) (4 Jul 2017)

Dave,
Glad this fix worked for you too. Thanks for letting us know.
Jack


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## MickCheese (15 Jul 2017)

I've had a AFS500 for a few years. It's stopped working recently and I suspect the circuit board. This will be the third one. Axminster supplied the first then then second was half price. I think I'm going to try the eBay capacitor this time. 

Will let you know how I get on. 

Thanks for all the input here without it I don't think I would have Been able to attempt a repair. 

Mick


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## MickCheese (19 Jul 2017)

Well, attempted the repair but still no luck.

Axminster want £61 for a new board. This will be the third board I have purchased so the forth this unit has had. I have asked if they will do me a deal as it's clearly a week part.

I await their response.

Not sure I will pay that for another board, may just look around for a filter from another manufacturer.

Or

I've been thinking of just wiring up some sort of 240v speed dial and bypassing the board altogether Just need to find one that can take the current, anyone any ideas? I don't need the timer, just on / off and speed. 

Mick


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## MickCheese (19 Jul 2017)

Does anyone know if something like this would work?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-220V-4000W ... 2062260629

Mick


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## ColeyS1 (19 Jul 2017)

I'd try contacting jet and send em a link to this thread. They should atleast be aware of the issue then.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


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## Jack (W) (19 Jul 2017)

Hi Mick,
Sorry to hear that replacing the capacitor didn’t fix it.

Does the fan turn at all; do any of the LEDs illuminate (even if only dimly); and are there any beep responses to the remote control or PCB switch presses? 

I think the small black rocker switch alongside the cable entry is to manually reset a 3 amp circuit breaker, has that tripped out? 

Jack


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## MickCheese (19 Jul 2017)

Jack

If I connect the motor up direct it works so i know its not that. The board is totally dead.

Mick


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## Jack (W) (19 Jul 2017)

Thanks for clarifying that.
If the circuit board is to hand it might be worth a quick visual inspection of the fuse marked F1 on the PCB to see if that has blown (but I bet you’ve already done that).
Sorry but I don’t know if the electronic speed regulator would work. 
Jack


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## MickCheese (20 Jul 2017)

Axminster as a 'good will gesture' have offered to replace the board with a discounted price and free postage so I will take them up on that. Don't save a fortune but it's better than nothing. As I understand it the current boards are an upgraded version. 

Time will tell. 

Mick


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## Racers (20 Jul 2017)

Any change of a photo of both sides of the board when it comes? I would like to see the "upgrades"

Pete


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## MickCheese (20 Jul 2017)

Pete

I can do that.

I also have a couple of the RS Capacitors spare if anyone needs one.

Mick


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## MickCheese (22 Jul 2017)

New circuit board arrived this morning. A five minute job to fit and to my relief all is now working again.

Quick turnaround by Axminster and a bit of a discount.

It looks like they have changed the capacitor but I'm not sure what other parts have been changed / upgraded.

Pics of new board both side as requested by Pete.












Mick


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## yanky (23 Jul 2017)

Mick, can you spare your faulty one? Postage paid, of course.
Thanks.


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## MickCheese (25 Jul 2017)

PM me your address. I would be interested n knowing what was wrong. 

Mick


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## yanky (19 Jun 2018)

£2.99 delivered here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332094033082


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## andygc (16 Nov 2019)

This is still a problem. I bought my AFS-500 in July 2014. Died in November 2016. The PCB was replaced by Axminster free of charge. The replacement board was the one shown above, with the yellow C1. Died for the second time a couple of days ago. I bought the capacitor from the ebay seller whose listing is Repair Faulty JET AFS-500 1000 Air Dust Filter 1uF EPCOS Capacitor fix, mentioned earlier in the thread. Ordered Thursday, delivered Saturday, fixed just after lunch.

The capacitor on the PCB may be rated at 310V, but it doesn't seem to be up to the job.


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## Roland (16 Nov 2019)

Mine died two months ago, and more than a year out of warranty. I called Axminster Support for help in diagnosing the problem, and they sent me a replacement board FoC.


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## steve1001 (16 Dec 2019)

Hi

I replaced the cap a long time ago and got the machine working again. Thanks to this forum for that.
The fault has occurred again. So, this time I was thinking of bypassing the board and switching the motor directly on and off.

Can anyone tell me if I can directly wire up the motor, ideally to get 3 speeds out of it?

Thanks.

Steve


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## steve1001 (16 Dec 2019)

Hi

I can now answer my own question! I got up off my butt, took the thing apart and figured it out.

The motor connections on the Jet board are marked COM, L, M, S.

S = fast
L = low
M = medium

To operate the motor:-

I connected 240V AC neutral to COM.
I connected 240V AC live to either of the L, M, or S wires that come out of the motor.

That bit of wiring bypassed the broken board, and has temporarily got me back up and running. 

I will replace the controller board with a homemade board. My board will use a programmable microcontroller (Arduino) to switch 240V AC through one of three SSRs (5V DC 240V AC) connected to the motor. Hopefully I will be able to decode the Jet hand controller IR signals and retain the use of that bit of the equipment, and avoid making a new remote control module. How hard can it be!!

All the best.

Steve


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## Jack (W) (17 Dec 2019)

Hi Steve,

Many thanks for letting us know how to wire the motor should it come to that.

A ready-made wireless remote control key fob operating four relays might also be worth considering if ditching the Jet PCB. Three of the relays could be connected to the motor for slow, medium and fast operation, and the fourth relay left unconnected for OFF.

Although the auction site descriptions are not particularly clear, it seems some of these remote control units can be set to work in an ‘Exclusive OR’ mode in which only one relay operates at a time. For example, pressing key fob button B would turn relay B on and would simultaneously turn off the previously selected relay. 
Of course it would need a 12v power supply and you would not have the timer function provided on the Jet PCB.

Jack

Example ‘12V 4CH 200M Wireless Remote Control Relay Switch Transceiver, Receiver 433MHz’:


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## steve1001 (17 Dec 2019)

Hi Jack

That's relay and fob link/idea is great, it was kind of what I had in mind, except I was going solid state relay. For around £7 it is worth a punt giving that set up a go. They even come with a project box! It looks like it would certainly be a quick fix, to ditch the Jet board and provide some basic remote function. I have not looked hard yet, but I have not seen one that provides a 'one relay on only' function. I suppose if one is extremely careful and turns all the speed relays off, before setting a new speed, then no harm will be down.
I have measured the motor current draw (running) at 142mA, 205mA, and 352mA (low, medium, high), so those miniature mechanical relays of around 1 amp or more should be capable, as long as they are good for 240V AC.

I am going to need a remote soon. Jumping up to turn the fan on and off and change speeds is going to get boring real quick (I need the mechanical rotary 4 position switch to be part of the unit).

I am still toying with the Arduino idea, as I can see complete control going down that route. Although more time consuming, the Arduino board could be made to replace the Jet board and could retain the 3 led speed display, and the run on timer and its 3 led display. There are other possibilities.

I will report back when I have made progress.

All the best

Steve


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## bob. (15 Feb 2021)

steve1001 said:


> Hi Jack
> 
> That's relay and fob link/idea is great, it was kind of what I had in mind, except I was going solid state relay. For around £7 it is worth a punt giving that set up a go. They even come with a project box! It looks like it would certainly be a quick fix, to ditch the Jet board and provide some basic remote function. I have not looked hard yet, but I have not seen one that provides a 'one relay on only' function. I suppose if one is extremely careful and turns all the speed relays off, before setting a new speed, then no harm will be down.
> I have measured the motor current draw (running) at 142mA, 205mA, and 352mA (low, medium, high), so those miniature mechanical relays of around 1 amp or more should be capable, as long as they are good for 240V AC.
> ...


Hi steve did you ever sort out a control unit for your jet filtration system, l bought one recently second hand and plugged it in and turned on the main ant immediately started to make a rumbling noise and the fan turns slowly, l tried turning it on by the on/off button but nothing, then after a bit of research found loads of people suffering from a similar thing and by replacing the large square capacitor seems to have sorted them out but not for me,it still started up slowly just when l plugged it in but this time when l turned it on by the button the speed control section works and the led light up corresponding to the speed selected but no led for on or led for timer selection . I am waiting for the guy l bought it off to find the hand controller but it somewhere in a removal box , bit annoying as its been 3 to 4 weeks lve been waiting, should have told him l would have my money back but he seemed a nice guy and it was not a lot of money, even though it sounds like it may turn out to be expensive. 

Regards bob.


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## Spectric (15 Feb 2021)

Why not keep things simple, have your filtration pluged into a socket that can be remotely operated, use one of these Remote Controlled Switch Box IP66 - 3 Gang

or to make it even simpler just walk over to it and switch it on manually. I suppose that is one of the benefits of growing up in the sixties before remote controls were invented. I will say that is a really crude and old fashioned circuit board, probably made by some asian in there house on peace work using recycled components.


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## bob. (15 Feb 2021)

Spectric said:


> Why not keep things simple, have your filtration pluged into a socket that can be remotely operated, use one of these Remote Controlled Switch Box IP66 - 3 Gang
> 
> or to make it even simpler just walk over to it and switch it on manually. I suppose that is one of the benefits of growing up in the sixties before remote controls were invented. I will say that is a really crude and old fashioned circuit board, probably made by some asian in there house on peace work using recycled components.


Hi thanks for reply, trouble is it's up on the ceiling so to try to use the buttons on the control is a pain,means climbing up on steps to start it and then to change speed. So really need remote or a wall mounted switch and a way of changing the speeds not bothered about the timer control. 

Regards bob.


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## deema (15 Feb 2021)

The 5v regulator circuit is IMO. very badly designed. They are using a zenar tocreate the 5V and the dodgy cap to smooth it. I might have a root in the attic for my text books from when I did my degree, if memory serves one of them shows this exact circuit as a really good example of how not to do it. If ever there was a case of getting your money back due to poor design I think this is a classic.


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## Spectric (15 Feb 2021)

Yes that is a really bad design for a 5Vdc supply, If it was my design I would have used a three term regulator and not the Zener, normally used as voltage references and not actual supply. You could improve it by using a self contained 5 volt Dc switching supply and do away with all that other nonsense.


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## bob. (15 Feb 2021)

Spectric said:


> Yes that is a really bad design for a 5Vdc supply, If it was my design I would have used a three term regulator and not the Zener, normally used as voltage references and not actual supply. You could improve it by using a self contained 5 volt Dc switching supply and do away with all that other nonsense.


Hi everyone, thanks for your replies, think l may have started a technical debate, unfortunately my electronics knowledge is limited to 1 year of radio/ electronics at college which ended after 1 year instead of 3 due to lack of funding of my employer the UEA and l was let go, but 51 years on and l can say l have always kept busy and hopefully will continue to. This problem with the pc board on these jet filtration units has been going on for years going on by the amount of references to it on the internet. If someone could actually diagnose the faulty components or weaknesses with a fix that would be brilliant, apparently some people have had 3 to 4 replacement boards over 6 to 7 years, some under warranty and some not. Thanks again.

Regards bob.


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## deema (15 Feb 2021)

In the UK products are covered by a lifetime warranty if they have one of three fundamental issues, an inherent problem due to i) poor workmanship, ii) poor materials or, iii) poor design. The reAston for highlighting the issue with the circuit is that the product falls into the last category. You are entitled to your money back, or to get them to fix it properly. 
You can’t fix that design, it’s just bad. It needs a proper 5V DC generator. A few low cost components and a piggy back board would make it work properly without any concerns of it becoming a problem again.


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## Jack (W) (16 Feb 2021)

Hi Bob,

I hope that in due course we’ll be able to figure out how to restore your PCB to proper working order.
In the meantime here are some diagrams that show how you might want to get your air filter up and running without the PCB.
No soldering is involved, and none of the existing wires are cut or altered. Just unplug the two connectors from the PCB and connect them as shown in diagrams 2, 3 or 4.
Once your PCB is fixed just plug the connectors back into the PCB.

Test:
I used a short length of lighting cable to connect Mains Live and Neutral to the motor’s cable shell in the three configurations shown (and as described by Steve in an earlier post).
As expected, the motor ran at each of the three speeds.

I hope this helps to some degree.
Regards,

Jack


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## bob. (16 Feb 2021)

Hi jack thanks for the reply and details will certainly have a look at it.l have managed to purchase a second hand board, which l was told came from a working extractor but the motor had gone bad, so l bought it and it worked ok but the speed leds were not lighting up very bright, so l took the square capacitor l had bought for my faulty board( which did not work) and put it on the new old board and now it's all working as it should . Couple of very helpful techy Guys seem to interested and may come up with an additional board to piggy back on original board, that would be a major step in getting all these poor people suffering from jets dodgy board, cannot keep buying replacement boards every few years. 
Just like to say thanks for all the positive comments, stay healthy. 

Regards bob.


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## Jack (W) (16 Feb 2021)

That's great Bob, glad you're up and running already.
Jack


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## bob. (16 Feb 2021)

Jack (W) said:


> That's great Bob, glad you're up and running already.
> Jack


Hi Jack, well at the moment but who knows for how long, so taken in all options, keep up the good work everyone. .

Bob.


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