# Would you believe I have got another lemon



## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

I had an Axminster tablesaw delivered yesterday AW10bsb2 and the saw blade when wound up practically touches the table gullet.

I have had a Record, gone back.
I have had a Schappach, gone back.
I have had an Axminster who said they would take it back but they are going to give me an engineer call first in the hope that the holding blade mechanism can be put in the correct position(factory set) 
I have still got to wait a week tho for an engineer to call.

I cannot even use my Triton (which I have had 5 years) because there is not enough space in the workshop to have both in a working position.


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## Waka (11 Sep 2007)

Well you should have gone for an Xcalibar.


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

Well Waka it looks like it might come to that, look at these two pics.












I wonder what else I shall find.


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## Sawdust (11 Sep 2007)

You should have got the Fox - it's miles better!!

Mike


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## MikeW (11 Sep 2007)

Hi DW--it looks to me that they drilled the counter sinks on the wrong side of the throat insert.

If they do not get it sorted out, make an insert if need be if you want to keep the saw...I have made my own inserts for years in order to provide "zero" clearance on the sides of the saw blade.

Use the present one as a template--with corrections, of course.

Take care, Mike


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## OLD (11 Sep 2007)

Construction looks same as my SIP but the blade and riving knife should be central the motor and rise/ fall arm is held to the CI table at four points (you adjust here to get blade parallel to table slots )and i think this is where the problem could be .
'I wonder what else I shall find' well its all adjustable so you will have to adjust it, fence for square, height and position of rails it runs on, the plastic bits have to be sized to not catch on the wood or the fence rail The 90 and 45 stops also need adjusting and you have to line up the riving knife with the blade quite time consuming that one.
However once its all done it stays. I don't have the sliding table so no input there.
It needs 16amp feed, it will keep blowing 13amp fuses.


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## aldel (11 Sep 2007)

Hi DW,

I know nothing of your saw but is it possible that the saw blade mounting washers/flanges are on the motor shaft in reverse order?


Aldel


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

No go Mike, and Adel (I just went and had a look)


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## MooreToolsPlease (11 Sep 2007)

I can see what Mike means, if you turn it end over end it looks like there would be more clearence there for the front teeth.
Shouldn't the blade be more centered in the groove left to right though?


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

The blade is definately in the wrong position, If the tommy bar is used to undo the saw blade the bar holding slot on the ci table is too far away.

But what is so annoying is this is the third attempt at trying to buy a decent tablesaw.


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## NeilO (11 Sep 2007)

DW, I got mine monday 10th, and set it up, following the manual....
with everything fastened bolted and fixed, making sure the rise/fall mechanism worked freely , I (as instructed) give the saw a quick on/off..
all seemed fine, so another longer on/off......still fine, repeated this several times getting longer in duration, until i was running it for a couple of minutes.....Perfick , at last a nice quiet saw........   

now reading your thread , my blade is in the same position as yours :shock: , why is it wrong??? (newbie to big toys, oops Tools).
is it supposed to be the other side, in the middle or what???
please advise, cos now I`m worried about using it..


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

Neilo . With trhe blade in that position just the slightest deflection and the teeth will hit the gullet and teeth could fly off the blade anywhere, plus small bits of timber will fall down in the wide gap.

Neil you've got a lemon!


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## NeilO (11 Sep 2007)

just tried my saw, the tilt goes right so doesnt it need that clearance to the right of the blade to operate correctly?
anymore clearance to the left would make the tilt possibly catch the insert when running

seems to run perfectly well...(i have a clearance of 2.5 mm insert to blade on the left, is that enough???)


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## Jhalfa (11 Sep 2007)

Mine is the same - I made a zero clearance insert for it and changed the blade for a decent one and have no trouble with it. The riving knife is centered with the blade and the flanges are in the right order.

Maybe the aluminium insert is the lemon rather than the saw


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

NeilO":3cvjoi0n said:


> just tried my saw, the tilt goes right so doesnt it need that clearance to the right of the blade to operate correctly?
> anymore clearance to the left would make the tilt possibly catch the insert when running
> 
> seems to run perfectly well...(i have a clearance of 2.5 mm insert to blade on the left, is that enough???)



2.5mm might be enough clearance on the left Neil, but check with Axminster. My clearance on the left is less than 1mm.


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

Jhalfa":2vz0aiki said:


> Mine is the same - I made a zero clearance insert for it and changed the blade for a decent one and have no trouble with it. The riving knife is centered with the blade and the flanges are in the right order.
> 
> Maybe the aluminium insert is the lemon rather than the saw



Possible but what about when you put the tommybar in to change the blade, the slot for holding the tommybar against the table is too far to the right to be correct IMHO on mine. So that makes the blade holder in the wrong position?


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## NeilO (11 Sep 2007)

DW, mine wasnt 2.5 mm to start with, I undid the screws on the insert and refastened them left side first, which pulled the insert clearance to the 2.5mm I have now ( if thats any help )
like i said anymore clearance and the tilt would probably catch in operation....

PS.. did yours come with a plug??



other than that I think its a good saw, dont think its a lemon , just some fine tuning to be done, and a zero tolerance insert cant be a bad thing.....


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## NeilO (11 Sep 2007)

Mines the same, regarding the slot for the tommy bar but I wouldnt rely on the "slot" holding the tommy bar , in any case DW...
you cant beat a good firm grip, when tightening any thing up...


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## NeilO (11 Sep 2007)

Dw, just had one of the bolts out fro the motor/blade mechanism, and they are slotted, so some movement is available ( I know you shouldnt have to do it, but mass produced stuff (( poor factory workers are probably paid by the unit) so you can get more clearance to the left of the blade, probably 5 or 6 mm, cant see that well its dark under there...

HTH
other than that I think its good for the price..


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

No plug Neil.
Tony says his saw is OK on 13 amp. plug, but the gentleman above says his needs 16amp.

I know there must be movement of the trunion under the ci table but at the end of the day just shifting the trunion over can then mean that the mitre slots will not be true to the blade unless the engineer has some tooling spacers etc. to set the true spacing. The blade must be 100% square to those slots to satisfy me. Otherwise I dont want the saw.


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## SketchUp Guru (11 Sep 2007)

DW, once in awhile, when I was still selling cameras and running camera stores, I would have customers tell me that every camera they ever bought was a lemon. I finally figured out it wasn't the cameras, it was the customers. Maybe that's the case here. You seem to be the common denominator in all these cases.

:lol: :lol: I'm just teasing.

I hope you get this straightened out soon. In the meantime, feel free to stop in and use my tablesaw whenever you like. I'm not kidding about that. :wink:


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

DaveR, departure 10.00hrs. Wed. should be with you pm with help of time difference. 
Tea, not iced, no sugar plus skimmed milk please. 

You might think I am teasing but I am not.


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

Calling forum members with a tablesaw.

How wide is your gullet?. yeah yeah I have heard that one  

also how much clearance each side of the blade?


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## SketchUp Guru (11 Sep 2007)

I'll put the water on to boil. :wink:


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## SketchUp Guru (11 Sep 2007)

devonwoody":2aj3rz0w said:


> Calling forum members with a tablesaw.
> 
> How wide is your gullet?. yeah yeah I have heard that one
> 
> also how much clearance each side of the blade?



DW, you'll see mine tomorrow but I have less than the thickness of a sheet of newspaper between the teeth and sides of the throat plate on my saw. Of course my throat plate is made of MDF. 

What do you want for dinner?


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## MooreToolsPlease (11 Sep 2007)

I just searched for Tony's thread when he got his.
The pictures show that the base and cast iton top come seperately.
Is there not any adjustment on this to add more clearence to the left side of the blade?
Also if it does come like this I would have thought it would be down to the user to straighten the mitre gauge slots to the blade?


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## NeilO (11 Sep 2007)

DW,
I fitted a plug (13 amp) works perfectly..

the trunnion has got adjustment as stated , like i said just a case of fine tuning the saw table...did you try screwing left hand side of insert, did you get anymore clearance???


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

Things must have changed Matt, the ci top is now fitted to the top cabinet and a lower base is just panels and extension legs. Mentioned above the trunions are factory fitted and I told Axminster if they werent putting it right they can have the saw back which they are agreeable to do but I would like a perfect saw at my age, Not busting my aorta for their mistakes. 

Dave, dinner , ummmmmmmmmm

Buffalo steak, very rare would be nice. The last time I ordered it I nearly got scalped. :wink:


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

NeilO":2tnfol73 said:


> DW,
> fitted plug (13 amp) works perfectly..
> 
> the trunnion has got adjustment as stated , like i said just a case of fine tuning the saw table...did you try screwing left hand side of insert, did you get anymore clearance???



No help trying to push the insert over, it wont go. Of course an insert that gave more clearance on my left hand side would perhaps look right but there would still be a massive gap to the right and the tommybar slot gives the game away that something is wrong. If your tommy bar doesnt hold when you undo or tighten up the blade, say goodbye to woodworking for a week or two :twisted:


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## SketchUp Guru (11 Sep 2007)

Don't blame you on the saw.

Buffalo meat it is. No scalping.


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

Thanks Dave, I have just heard the airline have bumped me.

Nothing is going right. Please put the meat in the freezer.


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

Would someone please tell Neil (moderator) my Triton is not for sale  

( private joke.)


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## SketchUp Guru (11 Sep 2007)

Alright. I'll take the water off the burner, too. My wife and kid are going to be sad.  

So how much do you want for your Triton? :wink:


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## devonwoody (11 Sep 2007)

Dave R":w3t2e9ay said:


> Alright. I'll take the water off the burner, too. My wife and kid are going to be sad.
> 
> So how much do you want for your Triton? :wink:



It obviously priceless. Cuts accurately, never broken down in five years, its just the colour that puts you off


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## devonwoody (12 Sep 2007)

Can anyone with the same saw please confirm that the riving knife should be fitted between the two plates as per pic. below?


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## wizer (12 Sep 2007)

Its got to be a Sign DW. Keep the Triton!


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## Jhalfa (12 Sep 2007)

Yes the riving knife goes between the two plates - it was fitted that way when the saw arrived, and aligns with the blade (at least it did after I adjusted it with the bolts that the manual says should not be adjusted)

Regards

jonathan


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## devonwoody (12 Sep 2007)

Yes Jhalfa, that why I also asked the question on the thread. Only the manual is not very explicit which side of the plates it should fit. Logically it could be fitted to the outside of the plate, because for the knife to rest on bolt points is a little unusual IMHO inside the plates.


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## Jhalfa (12 Sep 2007)

It can be fitted outside the plate, just requires adjustment of the 4 positioning bolts accessed by taking the righthand side of the case off.

I will do this when I make another riving knife. The existing one has the annoying property of being taller than the blade and therefore not fully retracting into the body of the saw when the blade is lowered. Like most people, the table saw functions as both a table and a saw so having a large riving knife sticking out is not helpful. Also it sits a little too far away from the blade for my liking.

Other improvements I made to the saw were to take the outfeed table off and build a mobile storage unit / outfeed table instead, also I took the sliding table off and mounted the righthand table extension on the left. This has left space on the right for me to build a router table into the saw so that I can use the table saw fence as a router table fence as well.

I am happy with the saw for what it is worth

Regards

jonathan


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## devonwoody (12 Sep 2007)

jhalfa, thanks for input.


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## Mike.C (12 Sep 2007)

DW, as Neil says the gap needs to be a certain size to allow the blade to tilt fully. I think the only problem you have is that the slot in the insert has been cut in the wrong place. And by moving the slot over slightly it would give the two or three mm gap you need between the edge of the slot and the blade, while keeping enough room on the other side to tilt the blade. It would also reduce the size of the gap so that small bits of timber will not fall into it.
Phone Axminster and ask them to send you another insert or make sure the engineer brings one with him.

What do you think?

Cheers

Mike


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

Hi DW, yes you are right in thinking, the riving knife slots in the holder shown in the picture, I would suggest it goes between the plate and the arm with the 4 adjustment screws, ie plate, R knife, arm...leastways thats how I did mine, (perfect alignment too)


still dont think we have Lemons DW, OK your insert isnt exactly machined to perfection, but once its removed you can see how much room you have , and if it comes to the blade catching anywhere I would sooner it be soft ally than cast iron..
Im not saying the saw is perfect, but for what we payed your bound to get some minor niggles and imperfections.

Tommy bar , you would seriously trust that slot holding your tommy bar while you heave away tightening the blade up... :shock: both hand s one on the TB and the other on the spanner..

i could whinge about the ext tables not having the bevel ground exactly too the main table bevel, the amateurish paint finsh on the rear ext table, the magnifier on the fence (some muppet went mad with the red paint on mine) the list could be endlessly, but I got what I think, as do many others on the forum , a reasonable budget priced table saw....

looking more closely at the position of your blade with gullet removed , mine is exactly (care to give me the measurement :lol: ) where yours is , and mine runs perfectly well.

you have to remember these are factory mass produced units, where anything needed to be placed in a particular area is probably "templated " in and such minor deviations are bound to occur...

anyway lets know the outcome of your decision ( keeping, going back, what axminster`s emgineer did/said etc..)

hope you get it sorted anyway DW, its NOT a bad saw...

**NOTE.. watch out when you fit both CI ext tables to the right of the table the collective weight is capable of tipping the table over ( so have the support leg very handy..****


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## devonwoody (12 Sep 2007)

Thanks Neilo,

the measurement to the ci. table on the right hand side (tommy bar side) is 12mm. 

What is yours ?

Perhaps other owners would comment on their measurement?

Also thanks for the warning re tipping, I would have thought the sliding table would balance but I suppose if you have some stuff laying on the r/h side things might get airbourne.


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

I assume you meant the gap from blade to table, it is 12.1mm .... that makes mine bigger than yours..
i just think its your insert not been fabricated to well..
did you get the note about the CI tables on previous post?

cant tell you if the ST assembly would balance it out not fitted mine (not enough room) the tipping is only possible while your fitting the tables DW, once the support leg is in place you can stand on the table, I know,had to reach my box of odd nuts and bolts somehow..


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## devonwoody (12 Sep 2007)

Sounds if I am getting good vibrations.

Not too serious if thats the case but that tommy bar hole on the spindle/ci table still makes me think things need checking out. The problem now is you cant see under the table without tipping it over and thats not an easy proposition for a couple of 70 year olds. 

Thanks neilo, I assume your message refers to the table tipping which will be sorted out. Sounds if you had a airy sensation when on that table


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

no DW, the table is rock solid once that (dare I say flimsy looking) support leg is fastened on, your ( and mine ) problem will be whilst fitting the CI ext tables ( 1st one not so much a problem ) but the 2nd one now having the collective weight of 2 CI tables ( and they are heavy) could just tip the table of balance to the right ,,,

*JUST HAVE THAT SUPPORT LEG TO HAND WHEN FITTING THE SECOND TABLE, YOU DONT WANT TO BE MOVING TO FAR TO FETCH IT..


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## Mike.C (12 Sep 2007)

Oh well, sorted

Mike


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## devonwoody (12 Sep 2007)

going to make myself an insert in the meantime but its 3mm thickness I require.

Any suggestions please?


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## Anonymous (12 Sep 2007)

devonwoody":20huwbtn said:


> going to make myself an insert in the meantime but its 3mm thickness I require.
> 
> Any suggestions please?



I made a zero clearance insert from 3mm aluminium for my Axi saw and simply raised the blade slowly through it - cover it with a box though or you'll have aluminium all over the place!!


I then used a jigsaw to lengthen the slot to allow the riving knife to fit


The TCT blade will cut 3mm ali like butter without any harm to the blade (in fact, my current Trend blade lists aluminium and wood as the mediums it is designed to cut)


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## devonwoody (12 Sep 2007)

Help. I've got a piece over  







Neilo, did you have this piece over? I cannot find it any of the schematic drawings or any instructions to it. It has nothing to do with that supporting leg you have mentioned? My support leg is telescopic and complete.

edit. It gives me the impression of an engine mounting strap that fitted if the machine is going on transport???????

Thanks Tony I'll tell the engineer to bring some 3mm ali with him!!! :wink:


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## motownmartin (12 Sep 2007)

DW, I had this piece left over too, the thing that puzzles me is that if it was a transport brace why was it not fitted when delivered to us :?


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## devonwoody (12 Sep 2007)

Thanks Martin for the backup, I can still play meccano it seems. 

to Nealo & Martin, I have had to extend the mains cable (released the cable gland at side and pushed cable in further) because the tilt mechanism at 45% chaffes the electric cable inside the cabinet. 

OK I have fired the motor and that is sweet (not done any cutting until new insert is fitted) and my sliding table is just hanging at the moment and not aligned.

To Tony, these are the leg bolt holes I was referring to , I have set them at the bottom (floor level), perhaps they are used for a mobile platform?






Pics of my saw.

Different winding stops to the ones mentioned in manual, a lever now holds blade setting and I assume the knob holds the tilt (but not very well)











Thanks everyone for your support, I will let you know the outcome of the blade/insert setting when finalised.


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## Mike.C (12 Sep 2007)

DW, your saw except for one or two parts is much the same as the SIP, and on my 12" model the two threaded holes at the bottom are for a wheel kit.

You are right about the lever. Do the knobs on your raise/lower and tilt wheels fold in out of the way when not in use?

Cheers

Mike


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## devonwoody (12 Sep 2007)

Thanks Mike, No mention in our manual about those leg holes which orientation and tech. support were hopeless on support which way up they went. So took a chance and put them to floor in hope.

My knobs do not fold away, the saw height lever is quite effective but the tilt is wishy washy at the moment but will investigate when more experienced with this model.


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

DW, Glad to hear you finally succumbed to realising you just might have a decent saw table....I didnt get that piece (possibly is transport hold down)else dont you think I should of if its part of the saw?

Mike.C said do your knobs (handles) on your handwheels fold down ( into wheel aperture) when not in use? mine do, a simple pull forward and fold..

lower legs, searched in vain thru the destruction manual as to the orientation of legs, I eventually did like you DW and put the threaded nuts at the bottom, thinking along the same vein "mobile wheel kit"


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

Just wish I could get my piccies from flickr to here, or you all going to think my TS is a figment of my imagination :lol: :lol:


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## Mike.C (12 Sep 2007)

Neil thanks for explaining it better then me 

As I said the holes on my saw were for the wheel kit that came with it. If you want a kit and Axminster do not sell them, you could get a set from a SIP agent, there about £40 and well worth the money. If you give me a measurement I can check to see if they will fit your saw.

Cheers

Mike


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## devonwoody (12 Sep 2007)

yes the handle knobs must fold up because they were flat in the packet. But not having used the say something I have not yet come across.

I do like the cast iron trunnions, great improvement for me on those other models even tho they are attached to the table top and not very accessible.


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## devonwoody (12 Sep 2007)

Mike.C":2kt6iosh said:


> Neil thanks for explaining it better then me
> 
> As I said the holes on my saw were for the wheel kit that came with it. If you want a kit and Axminster do not sell them, you could get a set from a SIP agent, there about £40 and well worth the money. If you give me a measurement I can check to see if they will fit your saw.
> 
> ...




definately interested as well Mike, I have two holes each leg as pic.but tow legs the holes are as pic horizontly but the holes at the other end are verticle. 
Measure up tomorrow if neilo does not reply with details.

Neilo give me a pm and your phone number and I will get you pics flowing to the forum.


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

much appreciated Mike, but if I go in there and look at my "baby" again tonight, SWMBO will lynch me :lol: 
I will check the dimensions tomorrow and let you know if DW dont beat me to it..


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

Ok, I`m gonna die sometime, may as well make use of the situation....


dimensions of LEGS..looking from front of saw.

width 54cms (21 1/4") x depth 68cms (26 3/4") the threaded holes are horizontal at the front facing forward and vertical at the back facing sideways,, and are the same distance apart being 38mm ( 1 1/4")


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## devonwoody (12 Sep 2007)

Nice knowing you nealo.


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

at least one of us will benefit from my demise , DW...... :lol: :lol:


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## motownmartin (12 Sep 2007)

Mike.C":jvt8tvho said:


> Neil thanks for explaining it better then me
> 
> As I said the holes on my saw were for the wheel kit that came with it. If you want a kit and Axminster do not sell them, you could get a set from a SIP agent, there about £40 and well worth the money. If you give me a measurement I can check to see if they will fit your saw.
> 
> ...


When I purchased my saw I also bought the planer/thicknesser and managed to convince the salesman to give me 2 mobile wheelbases FOC  , these bases did not bolt to the machine but were made of L section steel which bolted together and were adjustable to the size needed, the only thing is that they only had 2 swivel wheels which makes it difficult or not as easy to wheel about with accuracy, a bit like an ASDA shopping trolley :lol: , well worth putting wheels on though.

Martin


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

For anyone interested, my pics just cant get them to display directly on here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilo2007/



if some nice person could follow link above and leave a comment, just so I know you guys can access the site , i`d appreciate it ..



Edited (several times) I give up I cant get these poxy things to display.....Argh!!!!!!!


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## wizer (12 Sep 2007)

Looks like flickr doesn't let you link directly to the image Neil, might need to find another host


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

:lol: Yes Wizer was coming to that assumption myself...
I will percivere with flickr as i have a few images up there already, but Photobucket is starting to look good.... :lol:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilo2007/Image1


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## llangatwgnedd (12 Sep 2007)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilo2007/1343006466/

Neal,

Replace with [url]

Nice setup BTW.

Cheers..


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## CHJ (12 Sep 2007)




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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

thanks Chas, I have been trying since monday, to do that  


see its not just a figment of my imagination...


thanks again Chas....


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## Mike.C (12 Sep 2007)

Neil, DW, its blinking cold out there. Sorry guys but it is not going to fit yours because both sets of threaded holes (at each end) need to be horizontal.

Nice saw Neil and look at that Osbourne :lol: 

Cheers

Mike


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

Sawdust producer wrote " Nice Setup BTW"....Thanks ...

but now needs sorting out properly everything was hastly moved when I realised how bloody big the TS actually is....


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

Thanks for checking Mike, think axminster do one anyway, around £60 mark just got to remember , that it needs to be sturdy enough for 270 kgs...


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

Testing


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## Lord Nibbo (12 Sep 2007)

Of course you could have a bigger shed :lol: 





Neil I think what you are doing when pasting the properties location you are including the end of the properties which has the affix ?v=0 when you drag across to highlight the property location stop short of the ?v=0 bit.

Or an easier way is to click on the (All Sizes) button above the pic, choose which size you want and the property location address is below the pic, copy that.


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## NeilO (12 Sep 2007)

Thanks LN, Chas (CHJ) pointed me in the right direction , I have the hang of it now, ....yes I was leaving the .$ ? vo rubbish on the end....

just check out my ability in "dust extraction advice " in general woodworking..

again many thanks , just love you guys for helping (platonic) :lol:


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## devonwoody (13 Sep 2007)

Mike.C":68nxbqe3 said:


> Neil, DW, its blinking cold out there. Sorry guys but it is not going to fit yours because both sets of threaded holes (at each end) need to be horizontal.
> 
> Nice saw Neil and look at that Osbourne :lol:
> 
> ...



Its chilly down here in Devon this morning. We have horizontal holes at leg bases and the other end we have a pair of vertical as well.

Our vertical holes centre at 16" I am unable to ascertain the horizontal ones becase I would need to transfer the legs orientation.



The strap mentioned earlier by martin and myself is obviously a part of an old jockey wheel set up (b...... awful on a previous saw I had). It would screw up to those verticle holes mentioned above.


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## devonwoody (13 Sep 2007)

The Australian have got the same saw.

copy of forum message and reply.


Originally Posted by ptygmit 
I recognise that saw!!

Its the taiwanese MJ2325 clone, and i have the Ledacraft version. Carbatech and hare forbes also sell it. 

The top piccie is exactly how mine came, the blade runs about 2mm from the left side of the insert.

Out of interest, grab the saw blade and give it a vertical tug. Does yours move upward about 2-4mm? I put a post on here a while back, and the consesus was that this was a fault, but Ledacraft said that all the saws of this model do it, and the weight of the assembly keeps the blade in place. I was pretty dubious, but checked it out and every one of these saws i located did the same thing.

I built myself a new insert mate. Its pretty easy to do (use the old one as a template) and fixes the problem.

Cheers

pete 

Thanks for that information above, I have just gone straight out and mine does the same. (the blade raises when grabbed and lifted) 

So if I make a new insert the traditional way, a sheet of ali cut to shape, screwed down, raise a spinning saw blade through the insert I should have zero clearance.

But do I not need some space between blade and its gullet. Above working would be nil so do I file off a bit?
__________________


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## NeilO (13 Sep 2007)

needing space between the blade and the gullet depnds on how your going to use the saw DW....as I see a zero tolerance insert, there would be a minimum amount of free space between the blade and the gullet, possibly a mm all round...
but if your going to use the R Knife and crown gaurd , do as Tony suggests by driving the blade through the new insert then use a jigsaw or similar tool to elongate the hole for the r.knife to pass through.

unfortunately I wont be using the crown guard , as my shop is a little small, so im making using of the TS by covering it with ply and using it as a secondary bench/ assembly table when not in use..


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## aldel (13 Sep 2007)

Oh come on DW!!!

So much fuss!  

You want a zero clearance a plate and you have one. The gap on the other side of the blade is needed for tilting. Why make another when the first is OK.
If you think it is too tight to the blade then file a little off. 5 mins at the most.
A replacement can't be expensive to buy. Make another out of thin plywood and sand it flush to the table top. I do not think you have a lemon ---- just tweak the saw to your satisfaction.
If you want perfection then spend a few thousands on an industrial job.

Aldel


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## devonwoody (13 Sep 2007)

Aldel, yes but I also have a 10mm space on the rip side of the fence, which means when using the sliding table any small bits that fall in would make mincemeat of anyone around.

And the rip fence ruler runs off the scale because the blade is too far over to the left.


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## Anonymous (13 Sep 2007)

DW

It seems to me that you have very small issues with your saw, but you are blowing them up somewhat. 

At the end of the day, making a new insert is siomple and quick, and the gap on the standard insert is essential if you wsih to tilt the blade.


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## Sawdust (13 Sep 2007)

DW,

My saw is the Fox version but is very similar. There is a big gap at the right of the blade, if there wasn't, the blade would not tilt.

I just put up with it and don't worry too much about it but the preferred solution is to make a zero clearance insert. In all honesty, you could have made one in the time you have spent on here worrying about it.

It's like someone earlier said, if you want perfection, spend a few grand on a top notch industrial saw. At this end of the market I think it's reasonable to expect a bit of fettling to get it just as you want.

Cheers
Mike


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## devonwoody (14 Sep 2007)

The gap on the rip fence side is 10mm, so when ripping, what timber would you need to have left remaining against the fence to avoid the timber falling down or tilting into a 10 mm gap!!!!!

Makes me think, when I have regularly been used to working with 6mm thickness (for box partition work) In theory there would have to be 21mm left to balance .

I want a perfect saw.


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## Newbie_Neil (14 Sep 2007)

devonwoody":1stybyef said:


> I want a perfect saw.



Surely all you have to do is make the zero clearance plate suggested days ago?

Cheers,
Neil


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## Sawdust (14 Sep 2007)

devonwoody":t1hi06oi said:


> I want a perfect saw.



Therein lies your problem - there is no such a thing as a perfect ANYTHING! - especially at the bargain end of the market.

If you really are so bothered about the plate, just make another one, you could do it in half an hour and be using the thing. Even Norm has made one and he has a much better saw so it must be a pretty common thing to do.

Mike


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## devonwoody (14 Sep 2007)

Looks like I have come to the decision to return the saw. A further two problems arose yesterday.







When the consignment arrived this box had a torn corner so I checked its contents were all inside as per Axminsters contents list and it was satisfactory.

However when I went to fit the front rip fence rail yesterday I found the item not upto standard. So I assume someone else could have my fence rail and I got theres?

In addition when I went to telephone Axminster re the problem the office informed me that an engineer was on his way to me and would be with me shortly. I didn't refuse the visit but cancelled other arrangements made for the day, and after 3 hours I phoned and asked what time to expect the gentleman, and was then told he wasnt coming and it would be next Wednesday.

This type of customer service leaves me no option.


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## Anonymous (14 Sep 2007)

DW

I have to say i am truly shocked by this saga

You have paid a very low price for a very impressive piece of kit and complained about tiny issues that are easily resolved and then you decide to send it back????


Your perfect saw probably doesn't exist - and if it did it would cost 10 times what you have paid.


Are the 


> I have had a Record, gone back.
> I have had a Schappach, gone back.


and now the Axminster really 'lemons' ?


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## NeilO (14 Sep 2007)

Not wanting to kick this whole saga off again, 

DW`s "problems" seem apparent with each and every Axminster saw here...
"I want a perfect saw" scenario seems a little pretentious to me, given the purchase price......
most , if not all the "faults" with DW`s saw are in fact common with every saw mentioned in this thread....so are they actually problems?

And being perfectly Honest if I was cutting something as small as 10mm I wouldnt be using a TS , or if I was the piece would be on a "sled" of some description..

so leaves the final decision, DW keep the Axminster and it will prove itself, or send it back and be prepared to spend a five figure number on your "perfect saw" and boy, that would have to be "perfect"......


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## OLD (14 Sep 2007)

My opinion is slightly different to most, i think you should have a saw that is fit for purpose . The blade position is out of spec ,you are not happy with the quality of the fence, both are a easy fix and i think you should make axminster correct the problems. This costs them and eventually quality will improve for all of us because you insist its fixed .I know its inconvenient and time consuming but getting the saw collected and a new one sourced could be much worse so put up with it and you will have a good machine at the end .Might be a good idea to cut your plate ready for when the saws fixed so you can then finalise the slot and go straight into production.


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## devonwoody (14 Sep 2007)

Thanks Old, for your considered response.
My problem is that I already have an acceptable saw system and anything new must be at least to that standard.
I had the upset yesterday morning when I wanted to report a fence rail problem with Axminster and told an engineer was on his way down so I left the problem until his arrival.
Then is became a no show, and this morning I was told he was on holiday today.

I dont take switcheroos nor am I happy after cancelling my own arrangements for the day to get a no show. 

The others who have this saw I think have a good system for the price but I do not accept poor service at those prices I paid.


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## Sawdust (14 Sep 2007)

So what will you replace it with and how ever much is that going to cost?

The 'perfect' saw doesn't exist and as for people suggesting sagas like this improve standards for everyone - no way do they, they just mean higher prices for everyone. One way or another the cost of the returns have to be paid for and that just means higher prices.

As others have said, expecting perfection at this price level is just crazy. If it had a major fault - i.e. it doesn't work then it should be fixed but as for the table insert being out of tolerance - who's tolerance? Plus if it was much closer to the blade, the blade wouldn't tilt and then there really would be a reason for sending it back!

It's the old wanting a Rolls Royce but only being prepared to pay for Mini.

Anyway, rant over, I hope you find want you want DW, I'm just glad I'm not a tool supplier!

Mike


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## ByronBlack (14 Sep 2007)

DW I havn't commented on your saw yet because I'm in the dark regarding tablesaws, but just wanted to say that I agree to some extent what others are saying, and that it would be a lot of hassle for you to send the saw back - this is your third I believe and source another. You are running out of options at the price range, other than felder, hammer or Xcaliber or possibly a Jet - all of which are more expensive, are there any other options left open to you?

I had a similar experience with the lyndhurst planer/thicknesser, and like you wanted it to be perfect; afterall for me it was a lot of money and i'm sure thats the same with you, the service we have both received in these situations isn't ideal. BUT the forum members convinced me to keep the machine and fettle out the problems, it took me a while to come round to this thinking as I was quite dispondant, but I can say some months on, now that I have overcome the small issues, i'm pleased I have the machine and I love using it, just like I think you will with the Axminster saw - it's only a couple of issues that need sorting.

Make your complaints to Axminster (their service in my experience is superb usually) get any parts you need and follow the advice with regards to the clearence plate and i'm sure you'll be more than happy.

Don't give up yet DW you'll only have to go through this all again with a different problem on a different saw, life's too short to worry about small things!


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## Shadowfax (14 Sep 2007)

DW
Byron has it exactly.
You need a zero clearance plate. We all do, really. So just make one.
I know "no shows" are annoying but you have a machine that works. With Axminster's help you can get it very close to "perfect".
Most of us are DIYers or amateurs of some sort and the equipment we use, while needing to be of a certain standard does not need to be of industrial quality.
Keep the saw, fettle it and reap the rewards. The money you will probably save can buy loads of timber for the boxes you make.
Just my thoughts, anyway.

I suppose that was a long-winded way of saying "DW - lighten up"!
Best wishes.

SF


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## Mike.C (14 Sep 2007)

DW, IMHO Axminster are well out of order for telling you that a engineer was on his way to you, when he clearly wasn't, and you should complain about it.

On the other hand I think if Axminster replace the fence, and if you think theres something wrong with the insert, that two, then you should keep the saw. I have the SIP model and I can tell you that once you set it up you will have a cracking little saw. IMHO for the money you cannot buy better.

I know exactly how you feel, and it does not seem right when your fellow members tell you to do something you do not want to do (at the moment), but go along with us and you will not regret it.

Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

Cheers

Mike


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## devonwoody (14 Sep 2007)

Sincere thanks for all replies.


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## MooreToolsPlease (14 Sep 2007)

Just out of curiosity DW, if you are perfectly happy with your triton setup, why are you looking for another saw?


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## devonwoody (14 Sep 2007)

Matt. I have had the triton 5 years and honestly just wanted a change. I consider at my age if I didn't make a change now it would be too late, I reckon I must consider myself lucky if I can work around machinery another 5 years. 

And to add a twist to the saga above, if I had been a novice and stranger to woodwork machinery and woodwork forums what would have happened if I had put a 18mm width of timber for ripping in half. 7.5mm offcut 3mm kerf the other 7.5mm would quite probably have dropped down the gullet and most possibly come out again. 
And members say cheap at the price.


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## Mike.C (14 Sep 2007)

> DW,
> 
> And to add a twist to the saga above, if I had been a novice and stranger to woodwork machinery and woodwork forums what would have happened if I had put a 18mm width of timber for ripping in half. 7.5mm offcut 3mm kerf the other 7.5mm would quite probably have dropped down the gullet and most possibly come out again.
> And members say cheap at the price.



DW if you care to look back at page 3 you will find that I posted this which you totally ignored.



> Me
> 
> DW, as Neil says the gap needs to be a certain size to allow the blade to tilt fully. I think the only problem you have is that the slot in the insert has been cut in the wrong place. And by moving the slot over slightly it would give the two or three mm gap you need between the edge of the slot and the blade, while keeping enough room on the other side to tilt the blade. It would also reduce the size of the gap so that small bits of timber will not fall into it.
> Phone Axminster and ask them to send you another insert or make sure the engineer brings one with him.
> ...



This would have crued your 7.5mm problem so why make comments like the above. All everyone is doing is trying to help.

Cheers

Mike


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## devonwoody (14 Sep 2007)

Mike I did see your original comment and immediately went out and studied the idea. But for my own reasons rejected the suggestion. A slice would come off the plate on the left and a gap would have appeared on the table surface on the right, and to correct that did not satisfy me. plus countersink holes would be unsightly etc. 

But thanks for your suggestions which were appreciated.

I will confess to using the word perfect, it is a little OTT in this day and age?


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## Mike.C (14 Sep 2007)

But your original problem was that your blade was almost hitting the insert on the left hand side

Also if the slot in the insert has be been cut in the wrong place and you got one which was alright, you would not need to take any slice off. 

Cheers

Mike


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## Sawdust (14 Sep 2007)

devonwoody":3s6jevku said:


> Matt. I have had the triton 5 years and honestly just wanted a change. I consider at my age if I didn't make a change now it would be too late, I reckon I must consider myself lucky if I can work around machinery another 5 years.
> 
> And to add a twist to the saga above, if I had been a novice and stranger to woodwork machinery and woodwork forums what would have happened if I had put a 18mm width of timber for ripping in half. 7.5mm offcut 3mm kerf the other 7.5mm would quite probably have dropped down the gullet and most possibly come out again.
> And members say cheap at the price.



DW,

Sorry to drag this on but you are missing the point completely. The slot is the shape it is so that the blade can tilt. In so far as it can be, it is a general purpose table insert for general use. I have been using mine for over a year and not had any problems.

If I need to cut anything as thin as you suggest, first of all I will give it some serious thought as it sounds a pretty scary thing to do anyway and if I decided to go ahead I would make a zero clearance insert. Problem solved.

It is cheap at the price and you will realise that when you start shopping around for one which fulfils your requirements. Perfection is an unatainable goal which has no meaning but finding a machine which fits your needs is going to be extremely expensive unless you are prepared to do a few teaks here and there.

I just hope this thread doesn't put anyone of buying one because it's a damned good machine for the price and Axminster are damned good supplier. Not perfect perhaps what what is or ever has been?

Mike


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## Travis Byrne (14 Sep 2007)

Hello DW
time for my 2 cents worth.  
At the end of the day, its your Time and money that is invested.
Its your standards that are to be met!!!! :!: 

WE, who are in our seventies, don't need to take rubbish.  

Travis


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## promhandicam (14 Sep 2007)

devonwoody":2bt0bd7d said:


> snip . . what would have happened if I had put a 18mm width of timber for ripping in half. 7.5mm offcut 3mm kerf the other 7.5mm would quite probably have dropped down the gullet and most possibly come out again.



If I understand you correctly, the piece would only fall into the gap if it was very short - around the length of the slot. If it is longer then it will be supported by the back of the table. If I've got that right, then trying to rip down a 200mm long piece of wood that is only 18mm wide on a table saw, without a zero tolerance insert is rather foolhardy . 

That said, in my experience, before making a zero tolerance insert any offcuts that did fall down the gap did exactly that - they fell down - they were never thrown out. As others have said, whatever saw you end up with you will need to make a zero tolerance insert if you don't want a gap that things can fall down. 

The following from the Rockler website sums things up quite well:



> The fact that there’s such a thing as a zero clearance insert - and that you could probably use one if you do any amount of exacting table saw work - doesn’t mean that the throat plate that came with your saw is poorly designed. It has to allow clearance for the saw blade over your saw’s entire range of possible bevel angle settings, and therefore will always leave some amount of gap. In many situations, a little space between the insert and the blade isn’t a big deal. The insert that came with your saw will work just fine much of the time, and makes changing bevel settings quicker for cuts where small cut-off and perfectly clean cut-edges aren’t a concern.



Steve


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## Mike.C (14 Sep 2007)

> Travis Byrne,
> 
> Hello DW
> time for my 2 cents worth.
> ...



Travis, your right, and in the end the decision can only be made by DW himself, but if his fellow members who have the same saw or a clone of it are only giving their opinion. The problem is so small and can be corrected so easily, IMHO he would be silly to get rid of the saw.

But as you rightly say it is his money.

Cheers

Mike


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## tnimble (14 Sep 2007)

With interest I've been following this thread now for a while.

Please lighten up a bit guys!

DW As I look at some of the pictures posted here I do understand your problem. To me the gap look a bit wide on one side and a bit narrow on the other side. That is for a general purpose insert. 

Can you tilt the blade to 45 degrees and take a picture with the blade set very low or just measure the gaps in that blade position?

What I guess is that the table, the whole motor, trunnion etc, or the opening in the insert is set about 2mm out of place.

This would mean either losing some bolts and shifting everything in place, align the mitre slot etc and tighten everything or get a correct insert.

Axminster should look into that, they can't except you to do that on your own. Also they do should look all the other parts your fence etcetera. And of course apologise for all the fuss and especially for not showing. What I've heard about Axminster they are good enough to do that for you. So let them help and don't send the ting back. After that you have a pretty perfect saw.


Good luck sorting it all out
Christian


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## andy king (14 Sep 2007)

As this is such a long thread, I may have missed this, so apologies if it is the case and someone has already said it first, but on a saw capable of tilting it is always the case that a wider gap will be needed to accomodate the tilt, as rightly pointed out by many in the thread.
In this situation it's common practice in the trade to use a sacrificial board of thin stock long enough to sit on the table and support the work, using for instance a piece of 6mm MDF, although this is a trick used more to keep a cleaner cut on two sided veneered boards, but can help in this situation I would imagine.
You make cut far enough to sit on the table safely with enough through the blade to cover the wide gap and support any cuts made and you have a zero clearance without having to cope with making special inserts or swapping them over. A piece of double sided tape will stop it moving if needed.
Making a really thin rip close to the fence may end up with the narrow piece snapping though, so ideally you need to make sure the sacrificial board goes far enough beyond the blade to span the opening an be supported to close the gap and span beyond and onto the table, and if the depth of cut allows, a thicker sacrificial board.
Might not cure any problems you might be having DW, but a tip if needed.

Hope it helps.
Andy


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## andy king (14 Sep 2007)

Again, apologies if it's already been posted, but the design of fence and full width running rail allows you to relocate the fence to the left of the blade, eliminating the gap if wider stock is used to cut from. You have to get used to a different feed orientation, but again, a workaround if needed without resorting to too much effort.
I would definitely consider some kind of short sub fence for ripping natural timber though, but that's been covered in other threads, and extensively in a recent one if I recall.

Andy


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## tagnut69 (15 Sep 2007)

Just out of interest what was wrong with the other saws you returned ?before getting this so called lemon.


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## devonwoody (15 Sep 2007)

Thanks for the advice and tips above, 
The insert has it stands is very suitable for use when tilting the blade, and forum members solutions and there are quite a few have been appreciated.


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## devonwoody (15 Sep 2007)

tagnut69":tpnqc757 said:


> Just out of interest what was wrong with the other saws you returned ?before getting this so called lemon.



One of the saws, the blade used to move sideways when the blade was raised (but not the riving knife) and the other broke down inside the saw cabinet(came of its rails, and did the same the next day after an engineers visit)


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## WellsWood (15 Sep 2007)

devonwoody":3peiklq6 said:


> .. what would have happened if I had put a 18mm width of timber for ripping in half. ..



All your other problems aside DW, and I do understand how you feel, I can't help wondering If you've even bought the right tool at all. If the above example is typical of the kind of cuts you make you'd be much better off with a bandsaw - sooo much more suitable for ripping narrow stock, less wastage and a helluva lot safer.

Hope you get sorted, I know how frustrating it is to be dissatisfied with a big purchase like this. I'm with the majority on sending it back though, I think it's a move you'd ultimately regret, you do have to be realistic about what you can expect from machinery at this price point.


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## Woody Alan (15 Sep 2007)

DW I must just say that I agree with the general consensus of forum feedback here that if you want a saw at a good price you now have one, it's just at that price point you have a couple of adjustment niggles which they will sort out for you and if there is an issue with the fence they will also sort it if you give them a chance.
As to the gap to the side of the blade business my excalibur is the same in this respect. I have been meaning to make a zero clearance insert but haven't actually needed it yet. 
I would like to add that of DW's previous two saws one was/is notorious for all sorts of poor quality issues, and the other, well I sent mine back for the same reasons plus a few more so there is a limit to how much you think is "fixable" if the base product is just not right. I believe from what I've seen that this one should be fine when attended to as it should have been in the first place. As to the no show of an engineer OK not good but this sort of thing does happen from time to time. 
Alan


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## Anonymous (15 Sep 2007)

DW

Just a thought. Did Axminster tell you why the engineer would not arrive?

Possibly he spent the extra time fixing someone else's kit, thus providing them with the service they desired rather than leaving with the item still not working only to return another day?

Possible.


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## devonwoody (16 Sep 2007)

Tony;
Only that he was not coming that day but would be Wednesday this week as originally booked.


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## devonwoody (17 Sep 2007)

After forum members recommendations and support even via private messages I have buried the hatchet with Axminster.  

I have informed Axminster that cancellation of the order be rescinded Wednesday this week but I still reserved the right to claim under guarantees.

I have three broken or damaged pieces to the saw from a trial run through yesterday afternoon.
Mitre guage indicator (plastic broken)
Tommy bar bent and blade nut/spanner soft.
The rip bar measurement indicator estimates not very accurate. In fact I am putting a chesterton ali ruler in the rail that does fit perfectly (25mmwide) other rulers seem to be 25.4 and will not lay in rebate.
The original complaint re the insert on the table has been corrected as per members recommendations.







The thing that swayed me to stay with the saw was the blade setting to the mitre slots is perfect and that means jigs and are naughty things I might get upto should work satisfactory.
I shall most probably keep the Triton workcentre in case I wish to cut up 8x4 sheets etc. outside in the yard because even in a double garage this can be space consuming. Although at the present time I cant see why I would need 8x4 sheets, its not my thing. 

Other pics shewn that might be of interest.




















How the saw fits my double garage, the sliding table slab is not fitted on rail and would be put up if required.











Axminster throughout the transaction have been polite and not obstructive and prepared to accommodate customer normal service.

Thanks for your interest.


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## cambournepete (17 Sep 2007)

That's good news DW - I'm sure you'll be very happy with it


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## NeilO (17 Sep 2007)

DW, like you I found several "imperfections" with the saw...
Spanners far too soft to hold or turn nuts and bolts, built mine with proper spanners..
tommybar didnt meet the cutout in table top, but I hold pretty much anything im tightening..
Mitre guage....but who has ever had a decent mitre guage supplied with their saw, ( i ordered an Osborne EB3, arrived before the saw )
and as for the measure on the guide rail, forget it ....i`ll still be measuring by hand..

but like you I found the mitre slots spot on with the blade , so Im happy with my saw , and Im glad you finally came to terms with yours.., lets hope Axminster see their way to some kind of compensation for your troubles DW...


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## Mike.C (17 Sep 2007)

Nice one DW, you won't regret it.

Cheers

Mike


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## paulm (17 Sep 2007)

I can't think of any reason why the measuring scale would not be accurate ?

You do have to calibrate the fence, assuming it's similar to my SIP, by setting the fence a specific known and accurate distance from the blade, loosening off the bolts holding the fence to the piece which contains the magnifying glass and the engraved indicator line, and then adjusting the indicator to that known fence distance befor tightening up again and rechecking for accuracy. 

Once done it's entirely reliable and quick and easy to use as normal from there.

On the SIP I also made another indicator and calibrated it to work on the scale on the opposite side of the blade so I can swop table sides as required with no measurement issues.

Not sure if I explained that well, but hoping it's clear ?!!!

Cheers, Paul.


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## devonwoody (17 Sep 2007)

Chisel, if you study the picture above of my magnifier you will see a thick red line that covers two mil. lines, I think there is supposed to be a gap inside the red line?
In addition if I move the holding bracket of the fence any further over to the right, I feel there is not a good support position for holding the fence. It would be very lopsided. At a later date I might consider cutting some of the ali of the fence support rail so that the zero mark starts at the blade. 
But in the meantime I am using that chesterton ruler and using the edge of the ali frame as a reading line.
At the present time I am getting an under cut of half a mil. but it is early days and a technique will have to be developed to cope with chinky engineering. :wink:


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## Anonymous (18 Sep 2007)

DW

I fitted a readng 'bar magnifier' to mine - from tesco for £3.00 and it has a very fine line. Also magnifys more

BIG improvement

I have owned 4 tablesaws now, and on each the magnifier was joke, but the Tesco bar magnifier (same one as they are 3" long and need cutting down) has worked on them all.


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## devonwoody (18 Sep 2007)

Thanks tony, I have put it on the list. 

How did you clean the gunge off the table top? I dont want it to go rusty though!

I 've got an 80 tooth blade (from earlier times) Should I purchase a 27tooth or go for a good quality combination?


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## Anonymous (18 Sep 2007)

DW

I used cellulose thinners to clean it and then applied a thin coat of cameila oil - I go over it with another very thin coat of oil every couple of months

I tired wax after clening the gunk off, and the saw was rusty the next morning!!!

I use a 10" Freud 80 tooth blade that I've had for several years for ripping and crosscutting without problems - I got a combination blade for free when I bought my saw and could use this for ripping, t don't feel the meed unless I am sawing 'beast' wood such as 3" thick Bubinga


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## motownmartin (18 Sep 2007)

I cleaned mine with BBQ lighter fuel, worked a treat, then applied a thin layer of silicone oil rubbed in with an abrasive pad.

Martin


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## Woody Alan (18 Sep 2007)

Use an old credit card to scrape off the worst and most spirits will clean the thin film left, I think I used white spirit because it was nearest to me at the time 
Edit: and I use liberon wax to seal the surface http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=0 I haven't had any rust but my workshop is very dry no brick or concrete surfaces exposed. 

Alan


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## NeilO (18 Sep 2007)

DW, cleaned my table with what I had on hand , white spirit to clean off the gunk, and then acouple of liberal coats of briwax...polish to a high sheen...


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## devonwoody (18 Sep 2007)

I called on my neighbour the other day and he was cleaning up his motorcycle ready for his hols. he was using a toothbrush,honest, I said hold on mate I will go and get my feather duster. 
So I think I will clean the gunk off perhaps for 6" each side of the blade and polish. Then leave the gunge on the extension ends until the day they are needed?


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## NeilO (18 Sep 2007)

DW, just clean all the gunk off with white spirit, messy and dirty, but worth it just for the usable space...and Briwax the tables a couple of coats and buff to a high sheen.
Did this only my CI bandsaw table , and other than an occasional (a couple of times a year ) wipeover , it seems to work great, no rust what so ever, and the wood just glides across the tables...


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## aldel (18 Sep 2007)

DW Pleased to see you are keeping the saw.

Do not use anything containing silicones on the table.
If you do you will get unexpected! results with the finish on your work.

Aldel


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## devonwoody (18 Sep 2007)

aldel":pdpnkpoj said:


> DW Pleased to see you are keeping the saw.
> 
> Do not use anything containing silicones on the table.
> If you do you will get unexpected! results with the finish on your work.
> ...



Thanks for the reminder I have even heard that neighbouring premises that used the stuff on car spray repairs have caused trouble and they can be yards away.


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## devonwoody (18 Sep 2007)

I used a 25mm car spanner to undo the blade nut today but feel that is a little slack on the nut.
What is the correct spanner size and type to use?
And might even get a spare nut has the original is very soft if size is known and available. I hope it is not some obscure Pekin standard.


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## OLD (18 Sep 2007)

I have the SIP saw but they look the same in many ways, the spanner is 24mm . thats actual size across the flats i got a silverline combination spanner of ebay but the nut does not need to be very tight .
Glad to see you have fettled the saw to your requirements it looks at home in the shop.


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## NeilO (18 Sep 2007)

DW wrote "And might even get a spare nut has the original is very soft if size is known and available. I hope it is not some obscure Pekin standard"

Its a no.25 with a side order of prawn crackers :lol: :lol:


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