# Please help with stripper advice - somebody, anybody!



## Catherine Monaco (1 Oct 2006)

Whats the best thing to do..?

I haven't the cash to buy a new kitchen so want to strip the solid dark stained wooden doors and paint them cream. They are about 23 years old and the previous owners have let them get rather greasy.

Should I use a dip and strip service...and if so, how / where can I find one near to home?

I live near Stroud, Gloucestershire. I'd appreciate any advice as I've never tackled anything like this before.
Thanks


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## OLD (1 Oct 2006)

I am using stripit at the moment its a gel little odour paint on to key surface muck and all, then add more to build up, scrape wash off with water dry with cloth light sand refinish.Or you could degrease say white spirit sand and refinish with paint.


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## Johnboy (1 Oct 2006)

Welcome to the forum Catherine.

You should not have to completely strip them. A good clean to remove any dirt and grease and a light sanding should be all that is required. Just prime and paint then.

I would not advise dipping them, it will raise the grain and possibly make the joints fail.

John


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## Catherine Monaco (1 Oct 2006)

Thanks guys - so I should clean them with white spirit and sand them? 

And this may be another dumb question (ok yeah, I am a blonde!) but do I have to take all the doors off their hinges and paint them flat/horizontal...or can I do it with them vertical and in place?


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## Scrit (1 Oct 2006)

Hi Catherine and welcome to the forum

A lot of doors are finished using what is called a two-pack lacquer which means that conventional caustic dipping won't strip them. The pine stripper actually has to use a special formulation to get the stuff off and as others have said it tends to raise the grain and can sometimes cause joints to fail. I've found that the biggest disadvantage to stripping kitchen doors, however, is that you may be somewhat disappointed by the end result - the doors are often made up from a multitude of timbers of slightly varying hue (natural, but it can still be visually disconcerting) so in it's stripped state your kitchen may end up having a bit of a "harlequin" look which must then be painted to hide it. When the doors are manufactured this is generally disguised by the judicious use of sprayed dark-coloured stains.

I reckon the two main things are to degrease them and then to provide a mechanical "key" for your paint to attach to. I'd recommend that you take the doors off and remove the hinges and handles - most older hinges attach to the cruciform plates inside the cabinet with a single screw and may have a couple of screws each to hold the "pots" onto the door. To degrease use either sugar soap (available from decorators suppliers) or possibly washing soda crystals dissolved in hot water and a dish cloth (don't immerse the door in water), but do remember use rubber gloves as these materials will degrease your skin in next to no time as well! You may need to go over them two or three times or utilise a nail brush (nylon bristles) to get rid of really stubborn grease. Once you've degreased them and allowed them to dry, a light sandpapering with something like 180 to 240 grit sandpaper will scuff the surface enough to provide a key for your paint - you are actually looking for a matt surface to paint onto. Wipe over your sanded surfaces with a rag soaked in white spirits to remove any sanding dust and you're ready to paint.

Scrit


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## Newbie_Neil (1 Oct 2006)

Hi Catherine

Welcome to the forum.

Cheers
Neil


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## Anonymous (1 Oct 2006)

You must enter a message when posting


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## kevinr (1 Oct 2006)

I'd recommend one of the Zinsser products as a primer. Usually the BIN Primer-Sealer, although 1-2-3 would work. They recommend BIN for kitchen doors. 

The BIN is great even on melamine. It takes a bit of practice unless you like heavy brushstrokes or a layered look! It is touch dry in 20 mins and so you have to get the coat on and even pretty quick. I recently used it (again) to prime an old built in cupboard so I could paint it white with red doors (my son is an Arsenal fan). Worked well. I originally used it when it was fairly new in the UK and the built-in cupboards I painted then (a number of years ago) are still great with no chips etc. 

With the BIN you only need to wash and rinse the doors no sanding is required. See http://www.zinsser.com


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## engineer one (14 Oct 2006)

most of the foregoing is great, but there is something to be said for 
a general degrease with something like flash before you use sugar
soap, but it definately needs the doors and drawers removing.

maybe then it is worth using one of those paint blocker undercoats
to ensure that there is no bleed through. i think b& q sell something
suitable. 

there is something to be said for spraying the finish to make the
top coat look smooth and effective.

paul :wink:


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## joekid (12 Dec 2006)

rubber gloves white spirit wire wool /various gredes and elbow grease,my brother sprayed his ,they look great, i dont give credit lightly,especially to my brother


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## johnnyb (13 Dec 2006)

all good advice. degrease, sand lightly then use zinnser bin(top notch product)


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## Anonymous (14 Dec 2006)

Sugar soap is fine, but I swear by Liberon Wax & Polish Remover (Libnet) http://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/show_product.php?id=76

This is available from most specialist woodworker's suppliers and really is magic stuff. Apply with 0000 grade steel wool and all wax & grease is gone. A light sand and you will be able to paint your doors. And yes, you need to remove all the hinges & handles.

Cheers
Brad


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