# Workshop build pre build



## technium

Hi

I am getting rid of my metal 10x 8 shed and 8 x 6 wood shed and having a new workshop built in the same area (roughly 17 x 9).

I wont be building the shed as no idea where to start but have had a few quotes for a build and erect onsite so probably will go down that route.

The area under the new workshop will be a concrete base which I am in the process of digging the ground, but want to make sure the shed lasts so wondered what you all thought would be best.

The metal shed had a concrete floor so I will use that but next to it is mud so I am digging down 5" and am planning to fill that space with crush and use a whacker plate to level it to the same level as the concrete base. Then I will shutter the whole area and concrete on top of the existing concrete aswell as the crush to make a solid foundation for the workshop.

is there any membrane or anything I need to put down either before laying the concrete or on top of the concrete before putting the workshop down or even is there anything else I can do to help protect the floor of the shed?

Not sure if anyone wants the progress updated with pics or not as shed builds etc seem to be plentyful on here.

thanks in advance.


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## Monkey Mark

I'm no expert here, but i'd be concerned about cracking between the new concrete and old unless you intend to put a pretty thick layer over the top of the existing one. Maybe break up tge top layer of the existing one before going over the top. 

You could put down a damp proof course and could also add a layer of polystyrene before the shed floor otherwise the concrete base could hold the cold.


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## Phil Pascoe

Make sure you think about where any services are coming in.


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## technium

Thanks guys.

The concrete base going on top is going to be 6" thick so hopefully should be ok? When you say polystyrene, do you mean lay the floor on polystyrene, wouldnt it just squash and break up under the weight?

No services other than electric but that will be coming in along the wall to the workshop location and then just be drilled through to the inside then probably have a fuse box fitted inside the shed with a main switch to enable me to turn off ALL power inside when I leave the building.

cheers.


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## Adam9453

I'd put some rebar in to help hold all the concrete together, particularly where the join would be.
Rebar isn't expensive and will add an enormous amount of lateral strength to the concrete slab.
You'd want a damp proof membrane as well.
Damp is the enemy in a woodworking shop


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## technium

by damp proofing is the black plastic sheet stuff screwfix sell ok 1200GA for a tenner? What I dont understand about that is the damp proof will stop the moisture coming up from the concrete but surely then the damp proof also keeps all the moisture on top of the plastic with no where to soak so creating a pool of water under the shed or am I looking at it wrong?

thanks again

Colin


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## sunnybob

Definitely use rebar to keep the concrete in one piece. Use a big hammer drill and drill lots of horizontal holes into the joining side of the existing raft and force rebar in there as well, or the new build WILL slip away from the old as the newly compacted earth settles under the weight of the new raft. Cross hatch 6 or even 8 ft x 3/4" round rebar all across the join. That is going to be the weak point, regardless of depth poured over.
I would suggest you cost out removing the existing altogether and lay all new, it be much longer lasting.

The DPC should be about 2 bricks above the highest earth touching the raft, otherwise you will get water pooling as you fear.


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## technium

While the weather is pants Ive been thinking about wether or not I should self build the workshop instead of getting it pre-made for me, I mean would it work out cheaper, would the materials the company use by lesser quality to what I could buy from local timber yard?

Ive been looking around for some plans and found this link and wondered what your thoughts were?

https://ruralgardener.co.uk/2008/12/30/ ... op-part-1/

My only question is that they mention about doing the roof from a template and mention tommy walsh using an OSB board for the template but I cant find any info on it, does anyone here have a link to what they are talking about?

Also what are your thoughts on self build.


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## sunnybob

If you get someone else to build it for you, you want to see other work they have done and speak to the owners.

"Professional" builders come in all types, from bodgit & scarper upwards. And the price is NOT an indication of quality.


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## Fitzroy

Currently i'm in the early stages of a workshop build, just about got the base down. I'm enjoying the self-build, and in the end i will have a great workshop for a much lower cost, but i have found there is a lot to learn, the devil is in the detail, and I've had to spend a lot of hours of research and planning to get the outcome that I want.


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## technium

Fitzroy":3svajqww said:


> Currently i'm in the early stages of a workshop build, just about got the base down. I'm enjoying the self-build, and in the end i will have a great workshop for a much lower cost, but i have found there is a lot to learn, the devil is in the detail, and I've had to spend a lot of hours of research and planning to get the outcome that I want.



Thanks Fitzroy, do you have any plans you are going by or are you just freelancing it? Any thing you think I need to be aware of?

Im still sorting the base at the moment but once thats done then I need to make a decision about the workshop itself either buy in or build it myself. Also I want to build right upto my boundary so ideally I need to be able to put the sides on the sides (if that makes sense) and then lift the whole side into place, any tips on that?

thanks

Colin


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## Stanleymonkey

Where are you based Colin?

I'm sure you could find a few 'locals' on here to give you a hand and speed up the process for you.

Martin


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## technium

Im Portland, Near Weymouth Dorset mate. Does this site have a members map? Im hoping with the weather I might get out tomorrow and do some more digging to clear some more of the ground.


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## Fitzroy

Colin. 

My build can be seen at 6mx3m-pent-workshop-build-t97540.html slow going at the moment though!

Shed design is my own. I used sketch up to work out the detail (shout if you want a copy of the file) ie what timbers and boards I needed. Shed is 6m x3m, mainly 4x2 framework 18mm Osb floor and roof and 11mm Osb sheathing, and timber/boards was £900 ish. I had to go for a suspended timber floor on block foundations as I couldn't have a slab for planning reasons, mature tree root zone. Base timber was about £120 out of £900. 

Other main costs to come:
EPDM rubber roof £250
Larch cladding £550
Electrics £400 (inc 6mm armoured cable 75m from house, new grounding rod)
Insulation and internal boarding £400
Windows and door £300 (but making myself as pre made would be £750+)

Aiming for £3 built cost, a ready build of similar quality would be c. £6k and the cheapest shed only (no electrics no insulation) was c. £1500. 

I'm building the wall frames flat then lifting in to position, don't see why you could not clad etc first then lift into position, although my walls would be insanely heavy at 6m X 2.5m. 

Anything to be aware of? It'll take longer than you think, especially if you have a 3yr old and a 5yr old 'helping'.

Fitz.


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## technium

Thanks Fitzroy.

I have no idea of costs but for 17' x 9' shed pre built and installed on site i was quoted about £1900 and that was 22mm Tanalised loglap cladding, floor is 2x2 bearers as is the framework and the floor has T&G on it. not sure if a self build would beat that price.

Ignoring the fact I have to do the crush layer, damp course, then cement base which is planned anyway for the pre built build.

For the self build I was thinking of the following. a layer of cement blocks and then sit the framework on that. so I guess 4 x 2 framework, then OSB on outside followed by the damp proof sheet, then some kind of cladding? Not sure about how to do the roof but want Apex as I can use abit of the roof space as storage. Felt on top. I guess I can knock up square frame for windows and I have plenty of sheets of glass here I can cut to use for the windows.

I like the idea of fitting the clad first then lifting into position but my concern would be the corners as how could I make sure theyre sealed? And if the price isnt going to be much cheaper then maybe I should just go with the pre built option.


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## Stanleymonkey

Dorset is lovely, but a bit too far for a shed I'm afraid.


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## technium

LOL thanks Stanley. Youre right it is lovely.


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## Fitzroy

I think you could complete a self build 17'x9' for less than £1900, but you'd have to do the build yourself! There are a couple of 'stickes' in the workshop forum that contain lots of info regarding the how to, especially if you are building on top of a slab, ie build-a-shed-mike-s-way-t39389.html.

With regards to precladding the panels i'm sure it could be done by allowing the cladding to overlap the end of the frame by the depth of the framework. It would mean that the membrane is not continuous, and I doubt you could tape the corner. However if you compare this to your log-lap pre-built version i'm sure it will turn up on the back of the truck as a set of complete panels that are nailed together and a simple overlapping corner trim nailed on. 

btw I'm not putting the pre-built option down, or saying you should built it, just that I've been through a lot of the same mental arguments and and often you're just not comparing apples with apples. If you want to build it yourself to the same standard as the pre-built, then you have to build out the same materials, ie 2x2 bearers, 2x1 wall frame work, 22mm loglap whitewood walls, 19mm t&g floor etc etc. I expect you could build it cheaper on this basis but for me the decision was to spend a bit more but end up with something of much better quality and to a design of my choice that will be much more visually pleasing at the end of my garden for the next 20yrs.


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## DennisCA

technium":3clh7byy said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> The concrete base going on top is going to be 6" thick so hopefully should be ok? When you say polystyrene, do you mean lay the floor on polystyrene, wouldnt it just squash and break up under the weight?



My house and garage are built like this, it works fine. In the finnish climate this is necessary or you'll never ever get a warm house in winter.... But even in britain I imagine it'd help a lot.


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## technium

Thanks all, still not sure which was to go but as im still at the breaking ground stage its not an issue yet. Still confused about the polystyrene aspect that was mentioned above.

I think id like the self build idea as I think I would learn alot in the process and get alot of satisfaction out of it but its the time needed to do it and the "asking friends to help" part that concerns me. 

Still plenty to think about.

thanks
Colin


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## DennisCA

To be more precise, it's EPS (Expanded Polystyrene) that was used here. 

Here's an old image I found from before the slab was cast in my house, that's hydronic heating PEX hoses and rebar, standing on top a thick layer of EPS foam sheets. In the center where there is more rebar and less EPS is where the foundation was reinforced for a 1.2 ton mass heating wood stove:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2841/1103 ... 9633_b.jpg

Underneath the foam there is packed & vibrated gravel.


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## technium

Thanks Dennis, so the purpose of the foam is just for insulation then. Does the foam have to fill the whole void or does it just need to cover the concrete? I mean if between the wood floor and concrete is 100mm gap can I use 50mm foam / insulation or do I have to fill the whole 100mm void with foam? im thinking from a cost perspective.

Also I think I might try and cost a self build, so for the size I want what do you guys recon purely for the frame work and roof beams? 4 x2's or 3x2's or what? I can then try and work out how many I might need and price up that aspect first.

thanks again

Colin


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## DennisCA

Hmmm, I think you might have gotten things mixed around, the EPS foam goes under the concrete plate and insulated the concrete from the ground itself. In the picture there the concrete was not yet cast in place.


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## cammy9r

Hi, good bit of confusion here I think. Technium I believe is having a wooden floor to the workshop not concrete. There will be no need to put EPS in the concrete base. I doubt a 6" pour over both existing concrete and sub base will crack, however rebar is a wise choice.
Have a look at this website for a bit more clarity on concrete bases : http://www.pavingexpert.com/concrete.htm
The website is cluttered with huge amounts of info and has served me well over the years.
If you have easy access to all sides of workshop then leave cladding until the frame is wrapped with breather membrane. Google breather membrane for more info on its uses. I use Permavent Eco as it is reasonably priced and see no need for super stuff for a large hut. For frame and roof you can use 4x2 cls, usually works out close to £1 +vat per meter for 38mm x 89mm or £1.30 +vat for the 45mmx95mm. The cladding will likely work out to be the most expensive part of the build.
The frame can be built on 600mm centres to keep cost down and will be plenty strong once sheathed internally with ply or osb ~9mm thick.


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## technium

Thanks Cammy.

You are right, it would be a concrete base to support the workshop with a wood floor. Im still debating on building myself so will consider what you have said but at the moment im still edging towards the prebuilt setup.

thanks again.


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## RobinBHM

Hi Colin,
Im in the process of building a 5.4m x 2.7m shed, so virtually the same size as yours.

The huge advantage of building your own, is that it is possible to construct in the same way as a timber frame house. Ive done this by starting with 4 x 2 section studwork, doubling up at the corners. I made in sections about 1220mm wide and screwed together. The strength comes from a plate at bottom and one on top.

I then clad the outside with 18mm osb3, which was then covered in tyvek housewrap. My next job is to fit 2x 1 tile battens vertically all round to create an air gap before fixing on the the featheredge cladding. It is the tyvek membrane and air gap, that makes a home built workshop so much better than a ready made shed. The mambrane makes the structure really air tight and nice and dry inside, whilst the air gap allows the cladding to be ventilated behind and dry out quickly giving it a longer life.


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## technium

ok guys im getting to the point where I need to think about the base now for the workshop. What are your thoughts on either a full concrete slab as the base with a wood frame and floor sat on the concrete or having just blocks cemented in place and then the shed frame sitting on those? I expect the later option would be cheaper but is there a reason to choose one or the other?

thanks


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## RogerS

I'm sure you've seen Steve Maskery's warehouse (sorry, workshop :wink: ) thread. But you might have missed several WIPs on workshops/sheds being built over on thewoodhaven2.co.uk such as here and here.


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## Fitzroy

Only real benefit I could see in a wood frame sat on a concrete slab is that you could have the wood frame made of smaller timber say 2x2s as opposed to a wooded frame on concrete blocks. My frame is made of 6x2s with a max span of 2m between some blocks, with an 18mm OSB floor it feels good and solid. Downside of using such a system is you would be limited to the insulation you could get in the floor, it that's something you plan to do.

A pal of mine recently built a shed with an insulated concrete slab for the floor and it was back breaking work digging, filling compacting, concreteing etc etc, and fairly costly with the cost of sub base, insulation boards, membranes and concrete. I thought the suspended floor on concrete blocks for my build would be easier and cheaper but to be honest it was not, it was still a back breaking task and probs cost 20% less. If I were to be doing it again and did not have the planning constraints I have then I would go for an insulated concrete slab.

F.


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## technium

Thanks guys.

I thought maybe the blocks route would be alot cheaper but obviously not then. Getting to the stage where I need to decide, problem is I cant decide!


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## technium

Hi guys 

I thought I would update this thread with whats been happening.

I have now dug out 4 cubic meters of soil from the old place of the old wooden shed which left me a level base. As the base next to where the wooden shed was is already 6" thick concrete (10'x8') then I have dug down 4" and filled with Type 1 Sub Base and compacted it down to within an inch of its life.

I have purchased some Visqueen dpm to cover the whole area under the new concrete slab. A week on Saturday I have planned for some help from friends to fill the whole area 11' x 19' with 6" cement slab which will also have rebar in it to try to minimise cracking between the area that already has cement base and the newly created compracted area.

As the slab will be bigger than the shed I plan to put some drainage in to minimise splashback and also to hopefully stop water sitting under the shed.

Think thats all for now.


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## technium

Ok today and yesterday me and a couple of mates laid the cement slab 5" thick and with rebar within it to keep it strong. I have dpm under the slab but when my new shed arrives, should I put another layer of dpm on top of the slab to protect the wood floor of the shed?

Heres a couple of pics of the slab all done and ready. Last pic shows damn cat paw prints that I had to fill :evil:


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## technium

technium":18tehgag said:


> I have dpm under the slab but when my new shed arrives, should I put another layer of dpm on top of the slab to protect the wood floor of the shed?



Anyone? :?


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## Fitzroy

If the shed sits in the pad and rain can get between the pad and the shed base the you need to do something to stop the wood taking up the moisture. If the pad is elevated and will be the shed floor such that the shed cladding will keep water off of the pad then no. Similarly if the pad is raised and you plan to extend then shed cladding to below the level of the pad such that it cannot get wet then you could forgo the dpm, although I would still use pieces between the pad and the wooden base.


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## technium

Thanks

The cement slab is 5" above ground level with a trench all around it. The slab is the same size as the shed will be so the hope is that rain will fall down the cladding and into the trench and not on the cement slab. The two vertical trenches you see in the photo are Arco drain which will be filled with pebbles and hopefully soak away any way that does make its way onto the cement slab.


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## technium

Hi guys

Ive noticed that the dpm that surrounds the slab keeps laying flat so when it rains etc it fills up between slab and dpm so I assume that means water is then getting underneath the slab and the dpm is then pointless. Is there a way to seal this properly? I read on a foreign forum about liquid Rubber to paint the side of the slab and dpm and stick it to itself but is there something similar in the UK or do you guys have any ideas?

Also at work I have been offered lots of 1" thick plastic like bricks that I can use to sit the shed bearers on which will keep the bearers off the floor but will I need to be worried about vermin getting underneath and if so then what do I need to use to stop that?

Finally I saw on another thread that someone suggested using a dpm skirt all around the shed which is stapled to the bearers and makes any water run off the shed onto the dpm skirt and then away from the cement slab so any thoughts on that idea?

thanks

Colin


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## technium

Anyone have any ideas?


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## Fitzroy

Colin,

I think you've reached the point that many of us get to in our shed builds, that you're into a bit of a unique situation, and you'll need to make a decision based on more generic info. If you look at the sticky build-a-shed-mike-s-way-t39389.html, there are a few pictures of how to do the slab and where the dpm sits in the overall scheme. Not sure it will totally answer your questions but it may help.

Also if you search google for 'concrete slab dpm' and look at images there a a bunch ie. "http://www.greenspec.co.uk/images/web/refurb/groundfloor/above-slab.png" that tend to show the dpm being brought up the side of the slab and then forming the dpc (damp proof course) in the brick work. All of these show a similar aspect that there is some form of protection to ensure the rain does not get inside the dpm. If i were you i'd batten the dpm against the concrete slab using treated roof battens, then extend some kind of flashing (either more dpm or boarding of somekind) from the shed over the top of the dpm.

Again, if you search google for 'flashing concrete slab' and look at images there are a bunch that may give you some ideas about how to resolve your situation.

Cheers

Fitz.


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## DennisCA

Concrete sucks up and releases moisture, though if it's in an heated enviroment it'll dry out over years. But in construction and the outwards facing walls, it was very important to get a barrier between the concrete and lower wooden portion of the walls because that concrete will never dry out:
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7383/1076 ... 275d_b.jpg

Hard to say with an interior floor, if it's in contact with the outside and moisture can migrate like that then perhaps a barrier is better... 

I painted my workshop floor instead, albeit 2 years after it was done.


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## technium

Thanks, 

Theres a picture here http://www.pavingexpert.com/images/conc ... geBase.gif which seems to show what I am talking about and that has the gaps around back filled so maybe thats the solution although I still kind of like the idea of sticking the dpm to the base either with the rubber glue stuff (would roof bitumen work?) or Fitroys batten idea.

I think the lower portion of the walls should be ok as that will be sat on the plastic bricks and they inturn will be sat on the concrete slab so no part of the shed will be in contact with the base.

Just so you know the shed will have a wooden floor sat on 4 x 2 treated bearers so I wont be using the concrete slab other than to support the whole structure.

thanks

Colin


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## technium

ok been looking into prices and ive been quoted around £3500 for a shed to be built and erected and most of those quotes would either use only 2 x 2 framework or even bearers that were only dipped which is not what I want. I think I can build it cheaper I just need to try and work out how to do this.

Floor will be 4 x 2 treated bearers held together with those metal clip things. As I cant get 17' lenghts of wood I guess I have to do it in two sections, hows best to join them? bolt the two frames together or screw or what? also would that be strong enough and do I need to double up the edges or anything? Finally what spacing should I use for the flooring ie 600mm or 450mm etc. Im trying to work out how much wood I need so I can price up the flooring.

Sides are going to be 3 x 2 framework so as its too big for the lengths I assume I again build and join the different sections together?

more questions to come but thats all for now.

thanks

Colin


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## technium

anyone?


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## Fitzroy

Colin. Surprised you can't get 17' lengths. I found anything up to 6m (20') was easy to source from local timber merchant. If you can't get them, then you could just build two half frames then add an extra length across the joint, like staggered Flemish bricks. This would give you a strong base. The spacing will depend on your floor thickness, you may get away with 600mm and 25mm ply but for the extra cost and hassle handling big boards go with 450mm spacing and an 18mm Osb floor

My frames (front and back) were 20' X 6' tall,600mm centres, and they became pretty hard to manhandle on my own, looking back making two half frames and bolting together would have been sensible. I bolted my frames together with M10 galvanised bolts, they a a few quid for a pack of 10 from Toolstation and worked great. 

F.


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## technium

Thanks mate, Will try a few other merchants then as two I tried here said they didnt have any.

ok 450mm with 18mm OSB3 will be the way to go then.

Do I need to double up the sides and edges of the frame or will 1 single piece of 4 x2 or 3 x 2 be fine?

i think I will try and do some pics and upload of my idea and see what you all think.

thanks for responding Fitzroy.

Colin


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## Fitzroy

Just got single edges in mine and other builds seem to only use singles, so should be fine.


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## technium

ok heres another update so far.

Ive solved the issue (hopefully) with the dpm. I got some flashband flashing stuff from screwfix and used that to seal all the edges of the dpm against the concrete slab and then coated the whole lot with some grey sticky rubber fibreglass stuff which is 100% waterproof so hopefully now that will mean the slab stays sealed around the edges. 

I was about to order the materials to build my own shed when a company came back to me with a quote for my shed which was quite abit cheaper than a few others I had received so after seeing some questions back and forth I have ordered from them so week of the 23rd October it should be delivered but I have to eract the panels which hopefully should be a do-able job. Ive ordered an 17' x 8'6" Apex shed, 4 x 2 pressure treated floor bearers, 3 x 2 treated framework. 19mm tongue and groove cladding. two large windows and 5ft wide double doors. Roof is poly coated metal with condensation barier and all wall framework will have breatheable membrane installed ready for me to then insulation and line the inside. I will order some 50mm sheets of kingspan or equivelant in advance so I can install that in the floor before the shed is built. 

The double doors wont have enough space to open fully so may need to convert to bi-fold doors or even make sliding doors. Anyone recommend strong hinges to use to make the doors bi-fold or anyone have any ideas on how to make sliding doors? Could I use computer server rails as I work in IT and have loads of them lying around and they are built to hold some weight.

Think thats all for now.

Colin


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## Shultzy

Technium, read my workshop build (viewtopic.php?t=17187) which will show you how to build and erect it on your own. I made it "flat packed" in sections covered in plastic sheeting to keep out the rain then erected it with a bit of help from the wife.


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## technium

Thanks all.

My sheets of 50mm Recticel insulation which is Jewsons equivelent of Kingspan have arrived today. I am away on holiday to Florida for 3 weeks and workshop is due to be delivered the Tuesday after I return so now im thinking of how I go about insulating the floor. Do I just cut this sheet to the correct width of the joists and slide it in place or do I need to use little noggins to hold in place or even staple strips of dpm across to hold it in place? Also is it a big issue if theres a few small gaps around the edges and can I just join pieces together or do they need taping with duct tape or something? I think I read somewhere about using expanding foam but if the gaps are only say 2mm then expanding foam seems overkill.

maybe I could use expanding foam in blobs to hold in place, is that a silly suggestion?

thanks inadvance.

Colin


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## technium

OK another update with some pics (hopefully)

We arrived back from Florida (after dealing with Hurricane Mathew) on Sunday and my workshop turned up on a flat bed lorry. Each panel weighed a ton (not literally but close enough) and we set about unloaded etc.

The floor panels were coated in Creocote and then Recticel insulation was fitted and screwed in place so they wouldnt drop once the floor was turned the right side up. I also screwed 20mm thick perspex blocks to each 4 x 2 floor bearer along the lengths so the workshop then doesnt actually sit on the concrete floor. Hopefully this will allow more air circulation underneath and also prevent the bearers rotting due to rain etc.

The panels were then screwed together and eventually the roof, although the roof sections did have to be moved as I first installed with a overhang and then found out that it wasnt needed.

Next step is to insulate the walls and then fit vapour barrier and finally wood to warm it all up abit. Still loads to do but its good to see it coming together.

Anyway heres a few pics.....


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## technium

Nobody interested??

Any thoughts on the insulation, is rockwool ok for the walls and roof as B&Q have loft insulation on special at the moment for only £9 a roll.


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## RobinBHM

Smart looking workshop and quite substantial for a ready made structure.

Personally, I would choose celetex sheet insulation, much better u value for a 75mm frame and less messy to fit.

The metal roof looks very good, I do wonder if there is risk of condensation as it isnt possible to convert it to a warm roof and there is no cold roof ventilation option. I guess if you insulate the roof and fit a vapour barrier, there wont be hardly any moisture able to hit the underside of the roof.


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## technium

I looked into doing the workshop in celetex insulation for the walls but its going to cost way too much at the moment so have had to go with loft insulation, not my first choice but budget restraints dictated what I had to go with.

I have been stapleing the vapour barier on the battens but wondered if that is ok as I think I read somewhere about someone using some kind of tar stuff to completely seal the edges of the vapour barier sheeting so have I made a mistake or is staples good enough?

thanks


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## technium

I now have to board around the windows and as I have large 8x 4 sheets they are going to cover parts of the window when fitted in one piece so am I best roughly cutting out the shape of the window and then using a router with flush trim bit while the board is in place to trim the wood around the window frame?

Or does anyone have an easier idea?

thanks

Colin


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## Fitzroy

I boarded over my window openings with the complete board, then drilled a hole to stick the flush cut router bit through and routed round, worked a treat.

Fitz.


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## technium

Fitzroy":1b75u3av said:


> I boarded over my window openings with the complete board, then drilled a hole to stick the flush cut router bit through and routed round, worked a treat.
> 
> Fitz.



Thanks Fitz thats what I thought but just wanted to double check before I started it.

cheers

Colin


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