# Best Glue for Using On A laminated Blank



## EnErY (25 Nov 2012)

Ok Guys i Not been turning a long while but i'm thinking very hard after observing what is produced here. something new is on the horizon and with there being such a variety posted i'm looking on making some laminated projects from my offcuts i turn for fun and get good pleasure from it but i'm looking for another challenge iv never laminated a blank before and i haven't got a clue where to start but the choice of glue to stick the wood together is i think the beginning guidance would be appreciated
Regards
Bill


----------



## Weasel Howlett (25 Nov 2012)

I have had no problems with good old trade grade PVA (got mine from jewsons in huge container). Then you have things like gorilla glue and the like but to be honest I don't much see the point. 

The chaps who have been doing it a lot longer than me may say different this is my 2p worth 

Oh yeah, if you have a look through the glues on any woodwork/turning supplies web page you'll get an idea of what's available.


----------



## jumps (25 Nov 2012)

unless you have consideration for setting times or waterproof output it really comes down to making sure that you have the absolute minimum glue layer when finished.

as already said PVA works, Titebond etc - personally I avoid polyurethane glues for this purpose but they will still work.

real key is good even clamping pressure


----------



## =Adam= (25 Nov 2012)

I have used both polyurethane and pva glue to laminate some blanks!

They both work well, the polyurethane sets quicker and does give a stronger bond, so I would go with that if you can, however if you leave the blanks for a day or so before turning then pva would be fine!


----------



## CHJ (25 Nov 2012)

PVA is fine for section joints where some creep is not visible over time, bowl bases, stem fixings, rims etc. but if you use it for items that are to have obvious joints exposed on a finished surface expect to be able to 'feel' the joint after a period of time as the two dissimilar woods or grain orientation move with atmospheric moisture.
To maintain a no creep joint you need a glue such as Cascamite, this is however only viable from a cost point of view if you use it in reasonable quantities as it does not have a long shelf life once opened and needs careful storage to keep the powder away from moisture.


----------



## EnErY (26 Nov 2012)

Thank you all for your comments much appreciated and it helps me a lot
Regards
Bill


----------



## dickm (28 Nov 2012)

For other Cascamite fans (at least it has now reverted to its proper name) as soon as you open a tub, it's worth decanting the majority of the contents into several much smaller, sealed, containers. (The jam/marmalade glass pots that come with hotel breakfasts are ideal  !) 
Have just used the last of a series labelled 2006, and all bar one seemed to be as good as when first stored. It's also pretty easy to see if it's gone off, as it doesn't then form a smooth cream with water, but remains partly separated.


----------



## marcros (28 Nov 2012)

dickm":2sary70p said:


> For other Cascamite fans (at least it has now reverted to its proper name) as soon as you open a tub, it's worth decanting the majority of the contents into several much smaller, sealed, containers. (The jam/marmalade glass pots that come with hotel breakfasts are ideal  !)
> Have just used the last of a series labelled 2006, and all bar one seemed to be as good as when first stored. It's also pretty easy to see if it's gone off, as it doesn't then form a smooth cream with water, but remains partly separated.



a bit like oil and water, dick, or more like bits of powder remaining that just wont mix in?


----------



## dickm (29 Nov 2012)

Difficult to describe - more like bits that won't mix in. A sort of "sour milk" effect. 
Of course, when it gets to that stage, it's totally useless. Presumably before that, it's lost effectiveness, but no idea how badly, or at what stage of curdledness it's dodgy.


----------

