# Workshop Images



## humanfish (5 Apr 2005)

I thought i would post a few images of the transition of my familys garage into workshop. It's not complete, I need buy a few more pieces of kit and tidy up but it is getting there. Ive just completed some insulating. This is my first time posting images so fingers cross.







The garage door insulated with 100mm loft insulation and covered with 3mm hardboard.






I connected the hardboard to the garage door by using a combination of self tapping screws and pop rivets found in the shed.






Here is a photo of the second half of the roof to be insulated.






It was quite awkward getting the 8 x 4 sheets up into the necessary position, then holding them there then nailing them. I stapled fishing wire across all the rafters so i could make sure the insulation wouldn't fall out.






The hardboard cover is up and secure.






A bit of white paint might lighten things up, bounce the light around. It'll probably be physcological more than anything.






I attached a strip of rubber to try and prevent draughts. There is a 30mm gap at the top and bottom of the garage door so i put a 90mm strip of rubber along this gap on the insided top and outside bottom.






A lick of paint will hopefully make things light.






Because the 8 x 4 sheets left a gap at the bottom i had to cut 14" pieces to fit around the rafters and cover the space left.






One of seven double sockets added.






The workshop. A bomb has gone off. I am quite new to woodworking my brother and myself began a furniture making course in september so we are gradually taking the garage over. My dad is quite enthusiastic.

So there is my little home outside. I hope it wasn't too boring, any comments would be welcome.

Regards all

Bad_hypertension


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## humanfish (5 Apr 2005)

Here is a link to the photo website, http://photobucket.com/albums/y120/bad_ ... ch%202005/
the images might be larger.


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## Adam (5 Apr 2005)

Good stuff, sounds like you are making good progress, and getting the major works (i.e. insulation) in before the rest of the workshop kicks off!

Have you thought about putting in a wooden floor? Its warmer, easier on the feet, better for dropping chisels onto and gives a good excuse to take everything out the garage and have a good tidy/throwing away session!

Adam


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## ike (5 Apr 2005)

Looking good!, looking good! The old man must a real diamond donating the whole garage!

cheers

Ike


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## Chris Knight (5 Apr 2005)

Looks like a great start!

You might want to give some thought to lighting before you get too far down the road. I can see there will be a huge temptation/need to use the space above the rafters for eg storage of timber but you will also find in due course that the places where the fluorescents are now are very handy for stuff too (running DC pipes, hanging tools, templates and whatnot) which could require you to move the lights to a position above the rafters...

Just one of the many trade-off dilemmas that you will enjoy solving as your workshop evolves. :lol:


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## devonwoody (5 Apr 2005)

When you have finished, your welcome down to Paignton to put a pitched roof on my double garage. :lol: 

You need ventilation in the summer.

Heating in the winter with single brick walls. 

Hope you get many hours of pleasant woodworking.


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## Mcluma (5 Apr 2005)

That looks like a good start to a good workshop

McLuma


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## humanfish (6 Apr 2005)

hi there thanks for your posistive words
Adam, when you say put in a wooden floor, do you mean a laminate floor of sorts. I never really thought about the floor but i am sure a measure like that would certainly have some benefit's.It's got to beat a concrete floor.
Waterhead you suggest a good point, what sort of lighting do you guys have. Are the general fluorescents the standard? I find they are OK but can leave certain parts of the workshop the shade, not dark. This might infact be the placements of my lights but as you said Waterhead maybe if i move them to above the rafters i could create a little room and bounce the light off the white paint


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## Chris Knight (6 Apr 2005)

I use fluorescents and small clip-on type task lights for stuff I really need to see closely. I just move these around as needed. In my experience (but bear in mind my eyes are older than yours) you can't have enough light in a workshop. Ideally it is handy to have a couple of lights that emulate daylight as these can be very useful when finishing wood. Good ones tend to be expensive but I think there are some cheaper fluorescents that come fairly close in colour temperature.


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## Adam (6 Apr 2005)

bad_hypertension":16zss5ms said:


> hi there thanks for your posistive words
> Adam, when you say put in a wooden floor, do you mean a laminate floor of sorts. I never really thought about the floor but i am sure a measure like that would certainly have some benefit's.It's got to beat a concrete floor.
> Waterhead you suggest a good point, what sort of lighting do you guys have. Are the general fluorescents the standard? I find they are OK but can leave certain parts of the workshop the shade, not dark. This might infact be the placements of my lights but as you said Waterhead maybe if i move them to above the rafters i could create a little room and bounce the light off the white paint



I mean (or similar) put 50mm square bearers along the length of the workshop and screw 18mm plywood over them. Spacing the bearers every 12-18 inches or so. And probably sitting them on strips of damp proof course plastic or roofing felt to stop damp rising up through them out the floor.

Adam


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## Newbie_Neil (6 Apr 2005)

Hi B_H

I'm with Adam on the floor, as I put mine in after seeing what Adam had done.

I've used an 18mm ply flooring with 3 x 2 cls underneath. Sandwiched in between is the green damp-proof course that you can buy from Wickes (about £10-12).

The cls is available at B&Q (Canadian Lumber System) and it's cheap.

It will be the best investment that you'll make in the workshop.

Cheers
Neil


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## Ham (6 Apr 2005)

I've used a sandwich of 50mm thick 'Kingspan', DPC sheet and 18mm T&G chipboard. The Kingspan is lose laid with it's edges butted up tight. The chipboard is also loose laid but with the T&G edges glued with polyurethene based glue (10mm expansion gap around the wall edges. It seems to have worked OK, although it is not 100% flat, due to slight curves in the chipboard.
Cheers, David


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