# Sunday morning gloat or was I ripped off FINISHED



## Lord Nibbo (27 Jul 2008)

I don't really think I was ripped off, infact I think I ripped off the seller, he wanted £8 I knocked him down to £5 

Yes it's a very early Stanley 10 1/2 of about 1895-1910ish so well older than me 







No adjustable front plate like on the very first models and no adjustable frog






Ok it's well rusty but not pitted, it was so rusty I had to use WD40 to get the cap off






Now this was my last restoration and some will cringe if I do this to the 10 1/2





I wonder what I'll get for it on ebay? [/b]


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## Paul Chapman (27 Jul 2008)

Ripped off :? No - there's at least £5 worth of rust on it :lol: 

Be good to see it when you've restored it.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Woodmagnet (27 Jul 2008)

Very nice score L.N.


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## DaveL (27 Jul 2008)

I think that is probably a hopeless case, best send it to me and I will dispose of it free of charge. :twisted: 

Jealous who me? :mrgreen:

I think even at £8 it would have been a gloat and then you beat him down. :roll:


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## mahking51 (27 Jul 2008)

LN
You havent't been sneaking down to Dorset when I'm not looking have you? :lol: :lol: 
Nice score, lot of work though.
Regards,
Martin


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## Lord Nibbo (27 Jul 2008)

mahking51":nzl8y33k said:


> LN
> You havent't been sneaking down to Dorset when I'm not looking have you? :lol: :lol:
> 
> Martin



No not Dorset it's full of grockles this time of year 
I joined the emmets in Looe, the Lions club run a car boot here it's only about half a mile from where I live and today is a big one which includes vintage cars, motor cycles, vintage engines etc etc.

Found the plane on the very first stall I looked at and there must have been well over 500 stalls, it took about two hours to walk around. :shock:



> Nice score, lot of work though.



Yes I think I'll give this an electrolysis try before anything else.


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## mahking51 (27 Jul 2008)

LN
Just remembered where you are, it should, of course, have read UP to Dorset!  

Nice plane though; I too, had a good find last week:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....m=260266669708&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=016

Look for ward to seeing some pics when its finished.
Cheers
Martin


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## Racers (27 Jul 2008)

Hi, Lord Nibbo


Very nice, I'm not jealous at all, no I'm not, I'm not, I'm not. :wink: 


Pete


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## TheTiddles (27 Jul 2008)

I just don't get the attraction in repairing something that can be outdone by a cheap modern alternative...

That said, we went into Pets at Home yesterday and came out with an adopted pair of Degus, however there's still some life left in them!

Aidan


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## bugbear (28 Jul 2008)

Lord Nibbo":2gj7c96g said:


> Yes it's a very early Stanley 10 1/2 of about 1895-1910ish so well older than me



That's very sad. To my eye, that rust looks quite recent. I reckon that plane was comparatively rust free 2-3 year ago :-(

I would definitely be inclined to sell it on to a collector - I think they're a poor tool.

BugBear


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## Anonymous (28 Jul 2008)

LN how did you date it?


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## Lord Nibbo (28 Jul 2008)

Tony":3m466t7w said:


> LN how did you date it?



First thing, the castings have no reference to Stanley, only 10 1/2 molded directly infront of the tote just behind the frog. The word "Stanley" is engraved in the lateral adjuster and I suspect it will be on the blade but it's covered in rust. Bugbear is correct as most of the rust is very superficial only the lever cap is pitted badly so extra work is needed on it.

To date it a combination of "Handplane central" http://www.handplane.com/stanley-1902-catalog

and Patricks blood & Gore
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm


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## Lord Nibbo (28 Jul 2008)

I couldn't resist getting the rust off. So here is the start of renovating it. 

First step to assemble the kit needed to use electrolysis to strip the rust off 

Pics of the kit 










Really expensive kit  One gallon plastic container with the top cut off, two bits of iron to act as negative anodes, two old spring clamps to hold the anodes, and a 12v battery charger, and most important two or three spoonfuls of washing soda.  

Next step fill the container with water turn on the power and add the soda a little at a time until a current is obtained. (it starts to bubble) 

Container filled with water the current is turned on and washing soda added 





15 minutes later it's cooking quite nicely  the scum on the top is rust.


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## bugbear (29 Jul 2008)

TheTiddles":3r252w2l said:


> I just don't get the attraction in repairing something that can be outdone by a cheap modern alternative...



What's the modern alternative to a #10 1/2?

BugBear


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## Smudger (29 Jul 2008)

Lie Nielson 10¼?
Yours for £262.


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## Lord Nibbo (29 Jul 2008)

Here is a closer pic of the lever cap before restoration started




The lever cap had about an hour undergoing the electolysis treatment then I buffed it up using a polishing mop on my grinding machine. This next pic is how it looks now.





At the moment the frog and chip beaker are in tub cooking


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## punkrockdad (29 Jul 2008)

I'm impressed. What happens to the painted elements when you electrocute them ? Does it remove the paint if theres rust underneath?


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## Lord Nibbo (29 Jul 2008)

punkrockdad":27u3dzah said:


> I'm impressed. What happens to the painted elements when you electrocute them ? Does it remove the paint if theres rust underneath?



Dunno 

I've never tried it before, perhaps others who have done it could answer.


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## bugbear (29 Jul 2008)

Lord Nibbo":nmqcz2gf said:


> The lever cap had about an hour undergoing the electolysis treatment then I buffed it up using a polishing mop on my grinding machine. This next pic is how it looks now.



Yeah - the older non-plated caps are easy.

The ones I HATE are where , courtesy of rust, they're half-plated :-(

BugBear


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## Lord Nibbo (30 Jul 2008)

The chip breaker had the same elecrolysis treatment but it needed a lot of rubbing down, there is some pitting as I expected but I can live with that





The blade although needing a lot a rubbing down came out much better than the chip breaker






Some clean up shows there is some pitting but nothing that bad







After flattening the sole and sides of the body a little just to get it clean paint stripper was applied
to remove the japaning











Washed the stripper off just needs some more cleaning and maybe a little flattening.


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## shim20 (30 Jul 2008)

coming along well. will be a nice plane when finished


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## bugbear (31 Jul 2008)

Lord Nibbo":3b84ew64 said:


> The chip breaker had the same elecrolysis treatment but it needed a lot of rubbing down, there is some pitting as I expected but I can live with that



Yep, happily that's normal - the exposed-at-the-top bits of the cap iron and blade often have worse corrosion than the sheltered "business ends". This means that making a plane cosmetically pretty is hard, but making it work is easier 



> The blade although needing a lot a rubbing down came out much better than the chip breaker



That's odd - I always though round (upper) corners on a blade were a late feature for both Stanley and Record.

BugBear


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## Lord Nibbo (31 Jul 2008)

bugbear":1wsnia6k said:


> That's odd - I always though round (upper) corners on a blade were a late feature for both Stanley and Record.
> 
> BugBear



Yes it may have had a transplant at some time


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## Handrubbed (1 Aug 2008)

If you want to remove the pitting from the chip breaker you can use a method that has worked well for me: use a mill file to "draw file" the entire area where the pitting exists. Draw filing as it is called in the States is holding the file 90degrees to the filing stroke and pulling the file towards you. I usually secure the chip breaker with double-sided carpet tape to a narrow piece of scrap held in a vise. The surface to be filed is secured horizontal at a comfortable height for filing. Keep the file clean as you proceed with the drawing, as the chips will scratch the filed surface. Chip breakers are very mild steel and file rather easily. Blend the filing area into the surrounding metal. When you are finished, use a deburring wheel or progressive Scotch-Brite grades of abrasive to get a satin finish.


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## BradNaylor (1 Aug 2008)

OK, stupid question from a Normite...


You call it a 'chip breaker'. I know it as a 'cap iron'. What's the difference and when did the name change?

I thought you hand-tool boys only planed beautiful transparantly thin and even coils of full length shavings.

In which case, why would you need something called a 'chip breaker'?
It sounds positively agricultural. No finesse.

:lol: 

Nice job by the way, your Lordship!

Cheers
Dan


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## Lord Nibbo (1 Aug 2008)

Dan Tovey":2s74l4dj said:


> OK, stupid question from a Normite...
> 
> 
> You call it a 'chip breaker'. I know it as a 'cap iron'. What's the difference and when did the name change?
> ...



Chip breaker and cap iron are two different parts.

Chip breaker





Cap iron


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## Philly (1 Aug 2008)

Dan
The names have slowly changed over time (usually by clever marketing types.... :roll: )
Originally it was a back iron, the correct name as it is fitted to the back of the plane iron. The back iron allowed the use of thinner plane irons (read "cheaper") while the added support of the back iron made it perform like a thicker plane iron.
At some point the name became "chip breaker", which really isn't the correct title as it doesn't truly perform a chip breaking function. It just supports the iron at the cutting edge.
Hope this makes some sense?
Philly  

P.s. LN - the last picture is a "lever cap", not cap iron. :wink: Looking forward to seeing your planes shine restored!


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## bugbear (1 Aug 2008)

Dan Tovey":20t1cfa2 said:


> OK, stupid question from a Normite...
> You call it a 'chip breaker'. I know it as a 'cap iron'. What's the difference and when did the name change?



The chip (or shaving) breaking action is the subject of some controversy, but cap-iron and "chip-breaker" refer to the same part.

Many people use "cap-iron" to avoid starting (yet another) debate over planing action.

In Infill and Bailey pattern planes there is an item called a lever cap, which is different entirely.

BugBear


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## Lord Nibbo (1 Aug 2008)

Philly":280y5spq said:


> P.s. LN - the last picture is a "lever cap", not cap iron. :wink: Looking forward to seeing your planes shine restored!



Ummmm Errr.... Senior moment I'm afraid (homer) in the earlier pic back up this page I called it a "lever cap" 
:wink:


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## Philly (2 Aug 2008)

No problemo, LN :wink: 
I wasn't going to let you get away with it after your enormous gloat :lol: 
Philly


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## Lord Nibbo (2 Aug 2008)

Sanded down and ready for finish





Tote and knob off Stanley 10 1/2 after six coats of french polish every one cut back with 0000 wire wool I was going to leave the final coat gloss but it looked too plastic so I cut that back as well then applied a coat of Black Bison paste wax to finish.




It's hard to think it's over 100 years old


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## Hatherton_wood (3 Aug 2008)

> What's the modern alternative to a #10 1/2?
> 
> BugBear



Anant #10? Otherwise there isn't anything....


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## Lord Nibbo (4 Aug 2008)

Stanley 10 1/2 frog gets it's first coat of japaning before it gets it's second coat it will be cooked in the Aga for an hour or two 





Bits and pieces polished up and finished


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## graween (6 Aug 2008)

Hi,

What a nice job !

It's a long time I want to put a new japaning coat on one of my planes. Could you let us know how you do the japaning ? Which product or recipe you are using ?

I'm able to clean all the other parts, but never dare to try on the japanning. I have "Restoring Antique Tools" from Herbert P. Kean but the paint he refers to i could not find it in France.

Thanks a lot, for the infos.


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## Lord Nibbo (6 Aug 2008)

graween":250x7kg6 said:


> Hi,
> 
> What a nice job !
> 
> ...



Here is as I wrote on my blog

asphaltum, 2 lbs. (0.9 kilo)
boiled linseed oil, 1/2 pint (1/3 Litre)
spirits of turpentine, 1 gallon (4 1/2 Litre)

Mix the ashhaltum & boiled linseed oil first in an iron pot, boil slowly until the asphaltum is melted, then take it some distance from the fire, (homer) to cool a little, and add the turpentine (avoiding ignition) before it cools too much, and it is finished. It might look quite brown at first but it will darken with age.

The amount shown above would probably do 100 planes so just use proportions of it to make a smaller amount.

There are more links about japaning on my blog. Here is a link to it
http://lordnibbo.wordpress.com/2007/05/ ... -japaning/


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## bugbear (7 Aug 2008)

Lord Nibbo":rd76agej said:


> Mix the ashhaltum & boiled linseed oil first in an iron pot, boil slowly until the asphaltum is melted



Finally a reason to buy the bare cast iron saucepans on offer so cheaply at car boots!

BugBear


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## graween (7 Aug 2008)

Hi.

Thank's a lot. I dit not see the link for your blog  ...

I might give it a try (don't need a gallon of it you're right :lol, it's for a #5 and my #8

Thanks.


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## Lord Nibbo (7 Aug 2008)

For a reminder here is how it looked when I picked it up at a carboot sale(yard sale) for £5 ($10)





Today it looks like this.....






Here's a few more pics 










A little pitting still on the sole but I think I can live with that.





 If you would like to see the pics much larger just click HERE


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## Philly (7 Aug 2008)

Superb job, LN!
You must be very proud,
Philly


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## Racers (7 Aug 2008)

Hi, m'lord

If the pits go rusty pop some super glue in them it seals them a treat, it worked on my Record 5 1/2 SS after I tried araldite with no luck.


your humble servant, pete


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## Lord Nibbo (7 Aug 2008)

Philly":3aatwpdq said:


> Superb job, LN!
> You must be very proud,
> Philly



Thank you Philly, Umm proud, well in one way I am, and in another way not really.

If I were to add up my hours refurbing it I probably done more than 50 hours work, now thats a weeks wage plus some, so I could have gone and bought another LN 10 1/4 rebate and know it will plane better than the Stanley ever would. On the other hand it looks really nice in my Stanley cabinet


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## Paul Chapman (7 Aug 2008)

Blimey, Your Lordship, that's a spiffing job :shock: 8) Excellent.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Smudger (7 Aug 2008)

Genuflection!


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## Tusses (7 Aug 2008)

very, VERY nice


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## bugbear (8 Aug 2008)

Lord Nibbo":3ellp8by said:


> A little pitting still on the sole but I think I can live with that.



Well, that's its collector value ruined!!!

Nice job... =D> 

BugBear


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## NickWelford (8 Aug 2008)

Very nice. As a matter of interest, care to hazard a guess as to how much it might be worth now after spending 50 hours or so working on it?


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## bugbear (8 Aug 2008)

NickWelford":qeqtg39i said:


> Very nice. As a matter of interest, care to hazard a guess as to how much it might be worth now after spending 50 hours or so working on it?



The obvious comparison points are:

fully functional, recent vintage (i.e. non collectible) plane; around £50

fully functional, old vintage (collectible) plane; around £100

fully functional, old vintage (collectible) plane in G++ or mint; around £200-250

I'd put Lord Nibbo's superbly renovated version upward of midway between the first two points - £70-80

So - no - this is not an earning proposition, but it's a jolly enjoyable hobby.

BugBear

(* all figures from memory and/or prejudice - I didn't search/read
dealer site or eBay)


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## Lord Nibbo (8 Aug 2008)

bugbear":5jzmzm06 said:


> NickWelford":5jzmzm06 said:
> 
> 
> > Very nice. As a matter of interest, care to hazard a guess as to how much it might be worth now after spending 50 hours or so working on it?
> ...



Excellent valuations BugBear. Before anyone asks it's *NOT* for sale  It's gone in my collection of things Stanley probably never to be used again, well not by me :?  it's part of my grandsons inheritance


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## woodbloke (9 Aug 2008)

Nicely done \/ - Rob


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