# any tips on cutting melamine chipboard



## tsb (26 Feb 2008)

Whilst cutting down, to manageable sizes, melamine chipboard I noticed the chips on the cut edges. Does anyone have any tips so as not to chip the edges or is it all down to the correct saw blade.


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## Gary (26 Feb 2008)

Are you using a circular saw?

If so

1. Score the cut line first with a stanley knife.
2. Cut in two passes.
3. Buy a Festool


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## Paul Chapman (26 Feb 2008)

I always use a router for the finishing cuts on melamine-faced board. The action of the cutter, cutting the board from side to side rather than bottom to top, avoids the surfaces chipping out.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Karl (26 Feb 2008)

tsb

It is very difficult to get completely chip free edges. Even dedicated machines with a scoring blade don't always produce a fine finish.

Whenever i'm doing built in wardrobes or similair I use a router and straight edge (or router table) like Paul Chapman suggests. 

Cheers

Karl


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## Chris Knight (26 Feb 2008)

You can try laying masking tape over the cut lines.


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## jasonB (26 Feb 2008)

As has been said even with decent laminate blades tou still get a few small chips on exit.

If you are only cutting the sheet into manageable sizes just allow 10mm all round for trimming on a table saw or less if routing.

On the curved kitchen that I posted a few weeks back I trimmed all the panels using a replaceable blade "multitrim" bit from wealden, got through 8 pairs of blades and I can get 4 cutting edges from a pair, its abrasive stuff :!: 

Jason


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## Mike.C (26 Feb 2008)

Gary wrote,


> Are you using a circular saw?
> 
> If so
> 
> ...



As Gary's says if using a circular saw the stanley knife is a great way, but nothing beats the Festool with its anti chip foot.

If using a table saw I find that using masking tape helps too.

EDIT Oops Chris got there before me

Cheers

Mike


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## wizer (26 Feb 2008)

Mike.C":2giqrpbk said:


> but nothing beats the Festool with its anti chip foot.



Actually the EZ Smart rails will pretty much match it for chip-out. I have had zero chip-out with my rails on melamine. At a fraction of the cost.


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## tsb (26 Feb 2008)

Thanks for advice. I am using the festool saw and guide rail and still getting chips so what am I doing wrong. The blade is the one that came with the saw. 
48T TCT. Would it be better if I changed the blade.


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## jasonB (26 Feb 2008)

tsb":1u21sgup said:


> The blade is the one that came with the saw.
> 48T TCT. Would it be better if I changed the blade.



How much use has the blade had, could be worn as couly the plastic insert.

Jason


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## Mike.C (26 Feb 2008)

Are you sure that you have the anti chip set up properly with the rail? The blade could also need sharpening.

Cheers

Mike


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## tsb (26 Feb 2008)

I bought the saw, new, to make myself this kitchen, so its just out of the box. I've cut down the rubber stuck on the rail to act as my cut line and I've screwed the green anti chip thing to the side of the saw and push it down onto the wood and tightened it up. I think this is how you set it up


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## Mike.C (26 Feb 2008)

Before you start using your saw for the first time with the rail, you should set the saw to the maximum speed (6) and cut the splinterguard to size, by starting at the end of the rail, setting the depth of cut, and cutting along the full length of the rail without stopping. Make sure that the guard is pressed right down and the knob is tight. This makes sure that the edge of the splinterguard is aligned perfectly with the edge of the rail and rubber.

Cheers

Mike


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## chippy1970 (26 Feb 2008)

WiZeR":yac3adza said:


> Mike.C":yac3adza said:
> 
> 
> > but nothing beats the Festool with its anti chip foot.
> ...



Oh no don't start that old argument up again :lol: EZ V Festool :roll: 

TSB, I have heard on the Festool owners group that melamine chipboard does not cut completely chip free with the 48 tooth blade anyway.

I cut up a load of chipboard end panels for a kitchen the other week and I didn't get many chips and I was using the 48 tooth blade.

Also you only need to use the green foot if you want it to be chip free on both the panel you are cutting and the offcut it just protects the right hand side of the cut.


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## wizer (26 Feb 2008)

i wasn't suggesting an argument. Just a comment that the EZ rails give me zero chip-out, the same as Festool.


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## SP (26 Feb 2008)

I've had some good results by cutting half way through the piece and then turning it over. Need to use an accurate table saw though.


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## George_N (26 Feb 2008)

I've used all the methods listed above, with varying degrees of success. Now I cut MFC panels 10 mm oversize with a CS and sawboard and dress any edges that will be on show with a router. I either use the router table set up for jointing (split fence with the outfeed side shimmed out with a strip of formica laminate) or hand-held with a straight edge. I cut to final size on the table saw with an 80 tooth triple chip blade. A bit long winded but it works for me. As Jason said, MFC is abrasive stuff and you get through router cutters pretty fast. I invested in a replacable tip 'Verso' worktop bit from Wealden and with a 50 mm cutting edge I can get a fresh edge several times by adjusting the depth of cut. The replacable tips also seem more durable than regular TCT cutters (even good quality ones like Wealden).


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## dennyk (27 Feb 2008)

I have always cut melamine faced boards using my 12TPI hand saw, no problem with chip out. I know it takes a bit more effort than using a power saw but my cuts are mostly spot on, a few passes with a decent block plane and the jobs a goodun.

One point I must make is I have been using hand tools for over 50 years, well before portable power tools became the the norm, then if you were lucky you had an electric drill.

I do have a garage/workshop (my playroom), with TS, BS, drill press, morticer, router table, a few routers and a couple of cordless drills. plus about £1000 worth of hand tools some of which are from the 1950's even a couple of Philadelphia Diston saws

There again I had to find something to spend my retirement income on and give me something to do. I am on the longest holiday of my life, yippee


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## RogerS (27 Feb 2008)

tsb":gfzh3o8v said:


> Thanks for advice. I am using the festool saw and guide rail and still getting chips so what am I doing wrong. The blade is the one that came with the saw.
> 48T TCT. Would it be better if I changed the blade.



Yes. Festool do a blade specifically for melamine and I got one and it made a world of difference. Can't remember the exact one. If you can't locate it then remind me and I'll look it up tonight.

The other point worth remembering regarding the green foot is that you really need several...that you fit depending on your depth of cut. If you take a close look, as you increase the depth of cut then you cut into the green foot (which is what should happen) but then if you reduce the depth of cut then you'll find that there is now a tiny smidgeon of material that is not protected by the green foot.


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## Gary (27 Feb 2008)

WiZeR":tz7zacz2 said:


> i wasn't suggesting an argument. Just a comment that the EZ rails give me zero chip-out, the same as Festool.



Only the Festool is causing chip-out! :lol:


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## chippy1970 (27 Feb 2008)

WiZeR":2rn2favf said:


> i wasn't suggesting an argument. Just a comment that the EZ rails give me zero chip-out, the same as Festool.



Just kidding dont worry :lol: :lol: :lol:

I know they do a special blade around £80 that doesnt chip melamine

here


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## tsb (27 Feb 2008)

Have had another go today, using the masking tape method, with some degree of success and tried part sawing it , then sawing all the way thru', again with some degree of success, so thanks for the tips


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## ivan (28 Feb 2008)

I do this with my Mafell and the 48t Festool blade, I think you can with the Festool too. On the guide rail, set cut to about 3mm, and cut from the far side back towards yourself - this climb cut scores the top surface. don't go over about 3-4mm for safety reasons. Then plunge to full depth and cut back over the score, from near, back to the far side. (Also, check the saw can't twist on the rail)


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## wizer (28 Feb 2008)

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.ph ... ostcount=7


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## Mike.C (28 Feb 2008)

Wizer wrote


> http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.ph ... ostcount=7 :lol:



I still prefer the Festool :lol: 

Cheers

Mike


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