# New Spray Station!



## mahomo59 (2 Jan 2012)

Hi all,

First time posting on here.

I have been asked to make some MDF wardrobes and other bits and pieces, normally i wouldn't finish the work, a painter would. However this is something i wish to start doing. I've had reasonable success with brushes etc on my own home (MDF stuff) but it takes for ever! I have been using MDF primer x2, undercoat x2 and top coat x2 with a light sand etc in between where necessary using water based products as i prefer this for cleaning up.

Long time coming.... My question? I've just ordered an Earlex 5000 sprayer to try out on my own stuff before using on customers jobs. Can i use the same paint etc and should i be using a clear lacquer afterwards, i really want that good finish! I'm working from my garage and under a gazebo! Any help would be much appreciated .

Many thanks

James


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## jordec66 (2 Jan 2012)

Hi James, From my experience water based finishes do not have the durability of solvent based, and tend to discolour quickly. As you pointed out a laquer to seal the finish is an option, but in my humble opinion solvent based give the product an overall better finish.

I too hate the mess involved in cleaning up, but the end result is worth the hassle.

Declan.


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## mahomo59 (2 Jan 2012)

Thanks Declan,

Can you recommend any paints etc? And procedures, looking for as much help as possible... 
So far i have just been using Wickes own brand products with a brush...

Thanks for your speedy reply


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## SeanJ (11 Jan 2012)

Hi, i do a lot of lacquered and painted mdf work for carpenter clients. There are many suppliers of paint and lacquer ( i use Morrells who may have a branch/outlet near you). I simply use pre cat lacquer, which comes as either clear lacquer or white paint, all with different sheen ratings from about 10% (nearly dead matt) up to 90% full gloss. With both of these come their own basecoats - for the clear lacquer it's pre-cat base coat, for the white lacquer it's pre-cat primer. The pre-cat bit means you don't need to catalyse it (activate it) before use - unlike AC Lacquer.
Pre-cat is the up to date version of nitro cellulose that's been around for years i think, it'll do for most jobs, if you need better water/heat resistance then go for AC Lacuer (both clear and painted), you can burnish this to mirror gloss if needed as well. I'd keep it simple with pre cat to start with. Your earlex spray station should be fine, i'm a working woodinisher and it's my staple kit, just get used to adjusting and fine tuning your gun and using different needles, the standard one it comes with is fine for most things, you can go finer for finer atomisation if you need to, but it's not needed unless your getting really into fine finishing. 

Everyone will have a different opinion but the above is what i've worked with and know - so i hope that helps a bit.


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## mailee (12 Jan 2012)

Sean is spot on with his comments. I also spray a lot of MDF work and was a spray painter by trade. I also use Morrells for my finishing but I use the AC paint and laquer with a gravity fed HVLP gun. I also do not like water based due to slow drying, yellowing, and it's difficulty to use in a other than ideal environment. I find that the pre or post cat laquer is fine for most jobs but if you really want something that is bullet proof then there is AC polyurethane which dries ultra rapid and is as hard as nails. I should also point out that these should be used with the correct respirators and an air fed mask ideally. HTH. :wink:


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## tomatwark (16 Jan 2012)

I use Morrells as well for solvent based lacquer.

But for painted stuff I now use Sayerlack which is a water based lacquer but goes on really well and is very durable.

I get it mixed in the colours I want and the matching service is very good.

I still still use solvent based for most of my clear finishes as I am not keen on the pale finish the water based clear lacquers give.

Either way you won't go far wrong with Morrells or Sayerlack finishes.

Alan you may want to give Sayerlack ago as I did not like the Morrells water based stuff either, but this is really good.


Tom


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## mailee (16 Jan 2012)

Thanks for the info Tom. I shall have to look them up for my nearest stockist.


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## mahomo59 (18 Jan 2012)

Sorry for the delay...

Many thanks for all your replies! Most helpful.

Spray station turned up yesterday, but haven't had time to play with it yet. I'll let you all know how i go.

James


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## knappers (18 Jan 2012)

I am reading these MDF spraying posts with interest, as I see some MDF based projects coming up. My first question is are any of Earlex's cheaper spray stations any good, or is the 5000 the minimum recommended starting point?

Si.


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## mahomo59 (20 Jan 2012)

Update....

Had a chance to use the Earlex 5000 tonight and i must say, that i thought getting it straight out of the box with it being to go to work immediately was awesome.

I need to add i'm quite inpatient when trying new stuff and want to be great at it right away! We all have our character flaws!

Anyhow i bunged in some Albany acrylic primer/undercoat and started playing on some sheets of card, underside of worktop, and some MDF sheets. I thought it was coming out too blobby, messed around with the screw on the rear to decrease/increase paint flow etc but couldn't get quite right. Tried it with thinned paint and un-thinned. Gradually getting better...very early days...

James


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## superunknown (5 Feb 2012)

I ordered the Earlex5000 last week myself, due to arrive tomorrow. Thought it was a good price and all the reviews etc say it's a good bit of kit


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