# OSMO OIL



## Bassbear81 (2 Oct 2009)

Ive just finished my box and put 3 coats of Osmo on it, however the finish feekls slightly rough.

Is this normal or have I done something wrong?


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## Woodfinish Man (2 Oct 2009)

I presume it's the Polyx Hardwax Oil you used? If so, they only really recommend 2 coats, it might be that the third coat has slightly lifted the second one.

How fine did you sand the surface prior to the first coat and did you sand back in between coats?

Ian


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## Bassbear81 (2 Oct 2009)

I sanded down to 240, no i didnt sand between coats, Should I??

Can I do anything now or is to late?


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## Woodfinish Man (2 Oct 2009)

I think the problem here may be that the surface was sanded too fine in the first instance. Osmo recommend grit 120 or 150 so that the Oil will be absorbed into the timber. Anything finer than this leads to the grain being filled and the oil left with nowhere to go. As I mentioned the 3rd coat has more than likely slightly lifted the 2nd coat.

I'm afraid you may have to sand all off and start again. Alternatively wait a couple of weeks until it has fully cured and apply a coat of Superwax with OOOO steelwool - worth a try.

Sorry not to be the bearer of better news.

Ian


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## wizer (2 Oct 2009)

Define 'Slightly Rough'? I've always sanded to at least 240, 320 in most cases and, in the case of the bathroom panel, it's on it's 6th coat. I sand down _lightly _between coats with the next grit up. Did you wipe off the excess after 5-10mins ? What did you use to apply the oil ? How long before you applied the 2nd coat, What wood is it? What colour are your underpants (oops wrong forum).


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## Bassbear81 (3 Oct 2009)

WIZER its the Sapele toy box you gave me some advice on the other week.

I left 9-10 hours between coats, fist coat I used a brush then used a lint free cloth on the 2nd 3rd coats and wiped excess off after 10mins.

It doesnt feel rough as in sandpaper it just feels a bit bitty (if that makes any sense). I did wonder if it was dust settling on it??


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## wizer (3 Oct 2009)

yes it sounds like dust to me. Just give it a light sand with either 240g or 320g. See if you can flat it back.


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## Bassbear81 (3 Oct 2009)

Ill try that tonight, should I put another coat afterwards or just leave as is?

Whats the best way to keep it dust free?


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## wizer (3 Oct 2009)

Personally I think you should try to give it another thin coat after sanding. But if you don't fancy it, then you could go with a very very high grit like 1000 or 0000 steel wool and 'rubbing' the finish out. I'm not sure if this works with Osmo, it should. If you are going with another coat, then you need to wipe all dust off the piece before applying more finish. Use a soft brush to get the bulk of it off (a brush attachment for a hoover is good). Then I use a little white spirit on a cloth or paper towel and wipe along the grain. Don't use too much WS as you'll move the finish, just enough to make the paper 'sticky'. Then take the piece away from the finishing area while you clean up and remove as much dust as possible. After that, wait a bit for the dust to settle and then make sure you don't disturb the dust while you are finishing. This all sounds really full on. But it's not. I normally finish in my workshop which is extremely dusty. The main thing is not swinging doors open, etc. Apply the finish, then pipper off and leave it alone. As long as there is no movement in the room, there will be minimal dust in the finish. 

This is a question to those more experienced: Would adding white spirit to the Osmo make it dry quicker? Hence reducing dust nibs?


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## wizer (3 Oct 2009)

Woodfinish Man":pmnacfjo said:


> I'm afraid you may have to sand all off and start again. Alternatively wait a couple of weeks until it has fully cured and apply a coat of Superwax with OOOO steelwool - worth a try.



This could also be an option. Any pastewax should work (Briwax, Woodwax22 etc). My only issue with wax is that, in my experience, it's not very resistant to the natural oil residues in your hands.


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## woodbloke (8 Oct 2009)

Woodfinish Man":10uoaera said:


> I'm afraid you may have to sand all off and start again. Alternatively wait a couple of weeks until it has fully cured and apply a coat of Superwax with OOOO steelwool - worth a try.
> 
> 
> Ian


This is what I do with Osmo as a matter of course. I use the matt variety and then after two coats I cut back with a grey Webrax and teak wax which brings it up to a satin finish - Rob


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## Woodfinish Man (8 Oct 2009)

Just noticed this week that there is a significant difference in appearance between the Osmo Polyx Satin and Matt. The Matt is lighter both in solution and when applied to wood. 

Checked with Osmo UK to make sure this is normal and they say it is. Unfortunately they couldn't give me a reason for the difference, any thoughts?

Ian


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## dicktimber (10 Oct 2009)

After trying Osmo, I reverted back to Danish oil.
I had a similar problem.
If you wait till it is fully cured then use 0000 wire wool and bri wax it will cure the problem, then add a couple of coats of briwax and buff up.

mikeee


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## Mikey R (21 Oct 2009)

Woodfinish Man":14wb538d said:


> Just noticed this week that there is a significant difference in appearance between the Osmo Polyx Satin and Matt. The Matt is lighter both in solution and when applied to wood.
> 
> Checked with Osmo UK to make sure this is normal and they say it is. Unfortunately they couldn't give me a reason for the difference, any thoughts?
> 
> Ian



Hi Ian,

Sorry I missed this post earlier.

Have you tried buffing the Matt product to the same kind of sheen to the Satin product? An oil finish that doesnt darken would be very useful.

Mike


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## Woodfinish Man (21 Oct 2009)

Hi Mike,

No I haven't tried that but what I'll do is coat a panel with satin, one with matt and then try to buff the matt up. I'll come back with the results, completely agree a oiled finish that doesn't darken would be of real interest.

All the best

Ian


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## OPJ (21 Oct 2009)

wizer":3nirjmdj said:


> My only issue with wax is that, in my experience, it's not very resistant to the natural oil residues in your hands.



I could be wrong but, that sounds to me as though you're either applying too much wax or not buffing enough to remove the excess... Once a good was finish is dry, you should not be able to smear it with your thumb. Several thin coats are always better. :wink:


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## Mikey R (21 Oct 2009)

Woodfinish Man":3ltzqn3e said:


> Hi Mike,
> 
> No I haven't tried that but what I'll do is coat a panel with satin, one with matt and then try to buff the matt up. I'll come back with the results, completely agree a oiled finish that doesn't darken would be of real interest.
> 
> ...



Thanks Ian!


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## Teddy S (6 Jul 2020)

Hi, I have bought Osmo Red Cedar oil to do a cladding on a garage! I didn’t realise that I haven’t spread the oil properly and you can see the brush stains. What is the best way to fix that? I’ve just done one coat. Can I sand it down lightly to lose the brush marks? 
I need help. 
Thanks in advance .


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