# Enjoyable MIG welding tutorials for novices (like me)



## Eric The Viking (30 Jan 2014)

After a Parcel Force "delivery" yesterday (of a 100 year old Disston saw sharpening vice, now untidily severed into two pieces) I have some awkward MIG welding (of cast iron) to do :evil: 

So I thought it was time to brush up my, frankly carp, skills. I found this chap on YouTube, and thoroughly enjoyed his videos - big smile, endless enthusiasm, very helpful (Me: "Ah! _That's_ what I was doing stupidly!").

Probably not to everyone's taste, but I hope he does very well - I think he deserves to.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgGG-ifphkA

I know there expert welders on here. I'm sure he's not doing everything perfectly. I'll still probably ask dumb questions (and you guys will respond kindly, as usual), but these videos lifted a mood of gloom about how I was going to tackle this one.

E.

PS: He has a couple of videos about doing cast iron. I already have some SS wire, and Argon, and MAPP gas to preheat, and probably stuff to practice on, so will have a go.

PPS: Not entirely idiotic question: is there a good reason why you can't fit proper regulators to disposable bottles. I really can't run to a BOC account, but I'd like to get a better measure of gasflow.


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## stevep (30 Jan 2014)

Cast iron is best repaired by stick welding with nickel electrodes. It IS possible with mig and stainless wire but is very hit and miss as to success rates. There are a lot if factors which affect this but the main factor is which type of cast iron that it is and the grade of stainless used to repair.
Pre heating is not always necessary either. The best results are usually gained by welding it "cold". This means short, 25mm runs max and allowing to cool in between runs. Peen the weld straight after too.
But I have also welded it with pre and post heat with success too. It really is a bit of trial and error I'm afraid.


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## Eric The Viking (30 Jan 2014)

Thanks. 

I think I've got the right grade of SS on order (316? I think I've already got some 308). It's a clean break and a small repair (less than 40mm overall), and as the two parts can move, I'm hoping cracking won't be an issue. I will prep it properly and cool it in sand too.

Sadly I don't have (and haven't ever used) a stick welder, so can't go that route. I'm fairly good at MIG on steel (well, I can make functional welds!), so this ought to be OK.

E.


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## woodfarmer (30 Jan 2014)

I have had little success welding cast iron. In my view it is excellent stuff on compression but not on tension. welds tend to tension when they cool. Of course it may well be I am a rubbish welder


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## mind_the_goat (31 Jan 2014)

You get non-rental gasses, you just pay a deposit on the cylinder. 
Look up Welling Welding who my be within traveling distance.


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## Eric The Viking (31 Jan 2014)

mind_the_goat":nwf4zhf8 said:


> You get non-rental gasses, you just pay a deposit on the cylinder.
> Look up Welling Welding who my be within traveling distance.



http://www.wellyweld.com/products/Hobbyweld-Pure-Argon-Gas-Fill-Charge-72528.aspx

Good shout! 

Far better than the little cans. You can use a decent regulator for one thing...

Thanks for that, E.


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## mind_the_goat (7 Feb 2014)

Eric The Viking":jwoowas5 said:


> mind_the_goat":jwoowas5 said:
> 
> 
> > You get non-rental gasses, you just pay a deposit on the cylinder.
> ...



np.
There is one local to me but when I turned up and asked for the 9 litre cylinders I got blank looks, turns out the Poole WW is the only depot that does not suppy hobbyweld, they use BOC and their contract does not allow them to do both. Managed to find another source not too far away though. Be nice if they mentioned it on the website.


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## Eric The Viking (7 Feb 2014)

Thanks. We've got one nearby, in Avonmouth. I'll call to check, before going over there.

E.


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