# Axminster lookalike Tite-mark



## Nigel (3 Apr 2007)

To anyone thinking of buying one of these

I have just received a lookalike Tite-mark from Axminster that was on back order and found they had changed the spec of the shaft from Stainless steel to Steel/Nickle Plated

On trying the gauge the head would not move further than halfway along the shaft and on close inspection the plating was uneven

Thinking of Alfs comments on this of easing a stainless one with a diamond stone I realised I could end up with a chipped nickle shaft so it is going back
Axminster think they will all be plated now to reduce costs 

Nigel


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## woodbloke (3 Apr 2007)

IIRC, Mr C had a look at the Axminster clone and wasn't very impressed - Rob


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## Tony Zaffuto (3 Apr 2007)

Yesterday I received a Titemark original size gauge, directly from Glen-Drake, along with a 1/4" mortise blade. Quite impressed with how easy is works and how well it is made. The mortise attachment is a "double bladed" attachment that slides over the shaft and is secured by a set screw. The blades are spaced a few thousandths over 1/4" so you have to fit the tenons.

As a point of reference, over the years I have picked up a number of other gauges because I didn't want the cost of the Titemark. Totalling the cost of all those up would easily be in excess of my new gauge. I have no connection with Glen-Drake, but I heartily recommend the consideration of this tool. If I would have purchased it first, I would have saved myself much aggravation and wasted funds.


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## Alf (3 Apr 2007)

Tsk, that's bad news. Thanks for the heads-up, Nigel - I'll amend that review _again_.

Cheers, Alf

_Six_...


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## Woody Alan (3 Apr 2007)

I also made the mistake????of buying the axminster one but did replace the metal grub screw with a nylon one (based on the titemark) and it works fine now, whatever you do don't tighten the metal grubscrew it will just bite into the shaft. I should add I have also just bought a titemark and it is worth the money as far as I can see. 

Alan


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## Alf (3 Apr 2007)

Oh deary me. A metal grubscrew? Mine was nylon. They've really lowered the spec, haven't they?  I do hate it when they do that and yet you've no means of knowing before you buy it if it's the same as one that you've read up about. 

Cheers, Alf

_Five_


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## Chris Knight (3 Apr 2007)

For want of a screw, a tool was lost, for want of a tool, a customer was lost, for want of...

A grubscrew is a very small thing but saving money in these nit-picking ways is probably how Stanley et al drove the quality of their tools below the waterline, giving rise to LN etc. I bet Glen Drake will be laughing about this if they see it!


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## Mirboo (3 Apr 2007)

I've got a Titemark and I reckon it's great. It is a very well made item.


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## Nigel (3 Apr 2007)

Yes the one I have has a metal grub screw you can just imagine what that will do to a nickle plated shaft in a very short time

I think I will go for the Veritas gauge with the micro adjustment seems to fit in with what I need 

Nigel


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## Alf (3 Apr 2007)

Chris, did you see PWW's blog entry about them? Seems to be less "them" and more "him"! :shock: And he's not even called Glen... #-o :lol: To be honest, I think if I'd realised quite how small an operation it was I'd have been more inclined to stump up for the real deal - does that seem crazy? No, don't answer that...

Cheers, Alf

_Four_


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## Chris Knight (3 Apr 2007)

Alf,
Thanks for the link - interesting guy!


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## TonyW (3 Apr 2007)

Oh dear - I've done it again then  - you guessed bought a cheap imitation by the sound of things ordered the Axminster some time ago. Not yet tried it in anger but must say it seemed ok to me. Anyway perhaps I need to try it and see if improvements can be made as suggested in this forum.

Cheers  
Tony


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## Vormulac (3 Apr 2007)

Hi all,

For what it's worth, I bought the Axminster one about 5-6 months ago, it has the nylon grub screw and works brilliantly. Let's hope this steel screw nonsense is a brief anomaly only.

V.


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## Colin C (3 Apr 2007)

I got my one today and it has a metal grub screw but it doe sgo all the way down but is a bit stiff near the bottom.

I was going to ease the slot but as you say it is plated :evil: , I guess I will not be doing that :roll:.

By the way do you know where I can get a nylon grub screw to replace the metal one :-k ](*,) .


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## Woody Alan (3 Apr 2007)

Tony and Colin 

If you PM me I'll reply with my address and if you send me a reply paid envelope I'll send you 2 or 3 they will need cutting to length and they have a head of sorts but you could cut that off and put a slot in it, I just left it short so I can tweak it with finger and thumb as neccessary.

Cheers Alan


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## ivan (3 Apr 2007)

**Check if the Rutland's Dakota model has gone the same way!**

Steel screw:
Look for a nut/bolt supplier in yellow pages, probably under 'fixings'. If you can't find one, use a v sharp chisel to slice off a small plug from a thickish O ring, and trap it under the metal screw, so's compressed rubber provides the grip.

Agreed, not worth the compromise if no longer stainless, glad I got mine (4) a while back. Contrary to DC I thought they were pretty good (for the price) and whilst not an exact copy, very pleasing value for money. Also the titemark bevel out & mortice blades fit a treat.

I wonder how much Ax is saving by changing the spec to plated steel, can't be all that much. Perhaps it was affecting turnover(!) killing off sales on the Titemark.


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## Lord Nibbo (4 Apr 2007)

ivan":wkgktg88 said:


> **Check if the Rutland's Dakota model has gone the same way!**
> 
> I wonder how much Ax is saving by changing the spec to plated steel, can't be all that much. Perhaps it was affecting turnover(!) killing off sales on the Titemark.



I have a Rutlands Dekota that was purchased about six months ago. Most definately not plated and no plastic screws, but as I say it was bought about six months ago so I can't say if new ones have been changed. :?


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## David C (4 Apr 2007)

Regardless of the mechanical issues, it was the completely un-ergonomic shape of the brass fence area that I found most troubling!

Tite-Mark allows for good side pressure on the fence.

The curves on this one are all in the wrong place!

David Charlesworth


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## ivan (5 Apr 2007)

True, the shape of the (copy's) brass head could be better; pity we can't buy a titemark for just forty quid (US price).


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## Wiley Horne (8 Apr 2007)

I have a couple of questions about the Tite Mark. Perhaps someone could help. 

My question is whether there is a satisfying amount of registration of the fence on the board being marked. Particularly when using the morticing or cutting blades, and there is somewhat more drag coming from the cutter. 

How does the feel of the gauge compare with a cutting gauge having a longer fence, such as the Clenton cutting gauge or a Japanese gauge?

Thanks, Wiley


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## MarcW (8 Apr 2007)

Wiley,

I like the Tite-Mark, but I seldom use it above 2 inches. The fence then is too short and the whole starts wobbling. You can still add some registration by putting your left hand on the rod near the cutter and increase registration, but you won't do that anymore, if you have a japanese marking gauge with a knife and a 4 inch long fence. I like that one for every marking job over 2 inches. So I divided my cutter marking gauges' responsabilities in working ranges with which I'm very happy  Each tool its purpose. The japanese gauge is cutting easier through the grain, it seems, maybe because the knife's tip is finer and well pointed. The other's round cutter has much more metal to dig into the fibers. Nonetheless I prefer the Tite-Mark over the japanese gauge, because setting distance is a lot easier and more consistent. 

Hope I could help,

Marc


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## Wiley Horne (8 Apr 2007)

Thanks Marc! That's very helpful, and makes total sense. There is a lot of marking under 2" distant from the edge. Which Japanese gauge are you using? I have a couple of Kinshiro's that are very satisfying.

Wiley


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## MarcW (8 Apr 2007)

Wiley, 

I don't know which brand it is, but I bought it from Dieter Schmid in Berlin. I'm very satisfied, just one point as aforementioned in the distance setting is too much wobbling.

Kinshiro's are heirloom tools, right? I looked for on the net and I think mine is not playing in the same league. :lol: 

Have a nice evening,


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## Wiley Horne (9 Apr 2007)

Hi Marc,

Sorry, I didn't mean to have a contest with you. Actually, your gauge would exceed the Kinshiro for some purposes. For example, cutting. Like cutting stringing from a sheet of veneer. Your gauge would be better, because it has a thinner blade. 

Each of the different designs have their points, a thought you brought out in regard to the TiteMark.

Wiley


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## MarcW (9 Apr 2007)

Wiley,

You're absolutely right. But I'd no thought of contest, that's extraneous to my attitude on tools. I merely was astonishd by the high prize such a gauge could have. Just that, nothing more. My astonishment has more to do with a considerable lack of knowledge on japanese hand tools.  So it is rather me that have to apologize.


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