# Just ordered a new plane...



## GLFaria (17 Apr 2014)

Finally persuaded by some comments I read in Paul Sellers' blog, I just ordered a Juuma smoother from Dieter Schmid.

I would prefer a low angle plane, but Juuma only makes them #5-sized, and I really need a smoother to replace my 40 year old, much refurbished, flattened, polished and tentatively tuned Stanley Handyman (I even replaced some parts with their equivalent parts salvaged from a cracked Bailey #3 which I binned; mind you, I can get thin enough shavings in softwoods, but it takes an inordinate amount of time to keep the Handyman properly fettled). As for the low angle smoothers by LN or Veritas, they are as much out of my reach as the moon.

The second-hand market here s***s. And I am wary of what I may get from e-bay, people there live in too far-away places from me in case anything goes wrong. So, a brand new tool it would have to be...

I hope not to be disappointed, my Juuma block plane has been honest good so far.


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## bugbear (17 Apr 2014)

GLFaria":1bofi084 said:


> I just ordered a Juuma smoother from Dieter Schmid.



A rapid google reveals that this is going to be a "cousin" of a Quangsheng from Workshop Heaven.

Should be a good 'un - Enjoy!

BugBear


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## mqbernardo (17 Apr 2014)

i have one myself, a good piece of kit IMO but at 2,2 Kg quite heavier than your average stanley. that could be a plus, a draw-back or just not an issue. as of late i´ve been heading towards wooden planes, so it kind of feels heavy on my hands, but it´s nice to have an heavier one for a change - it planes more stubborn rosewood quite satisfactorily, even if it´s not high angled. the blade is quite good, and not hard to sharpen at all (on my stones at least) - as you should already know from your smaller juuma.

cheers,
Miguel.


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## J_SAMa (18 Apr 2014)

Hi,

Have fun with your new purchase, heard they are good users.
I feel your pain regarding local flea markets... I rarely see good metal planes in my neck of the woods. Wooden planes are probably more common where you live, but look out as they tend to have way more issues than any metal planes.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What I really want from both QS and Juuma is the 1/2 sized planes. Most eBay sellers don't ship them overseas due to weight and those who do charge a lot (not blaming them but it's the way it is).

Sam


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## GLFaria (19 Apr 2014)

mqbernardo":w75sf68z said:


> i have one myself, a good piece of kit IMO but at 2,2 Kg quite heavier than your average stanley. that could be a plus, a draw-back or just not an issue. as of late i´ve been heading towards wooden planes, so it kind of feels heavy on my hands, but it´s nice to have an heavier one for a change - it planes more stubborn rosewood quite satisfactorily, even if it´s not high angled. the blade is quite good, and not hard to sharpen at all (on my stones at least) - as you should already know from your smaller juuma.
> 
> cheers,
> Miguel.



Yes, I am aware of the weight - a full 600g heavier than the one I have been using. For the kind of work I do, which is strictly amateur and mostly with soft woods, it will probably be more of a draw-back, or at best a non-issue. Looking at it from the bright side, it may just be the extra physical exercise I need .
As for wooden planes, I feel I am still not prepared for them...


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## mqbernardo (19 Apr 2014)

GLFaria":3p8s69v1 said:


> As for wooden planes, I feel I am still not prepared for them...


 i´m sure you will be pleased with the Juuma, but since we live in the same corner of the world, i´ll be happy to ship you one woodie for you to try for a couple of weeks/months - but you must promise you´ll return it in case you really like it... 
they really don´t appear to be more difficult to use than a metal plane, provided they´re well tuned - believe me, i have two left hands and only do woodworking for a couple of years... here´s a teasing pic, african blackwood and brazilian rosewood plane made by a friend of mine:


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## GLFaria (20 Apr 2014)

mqbernardo":2lv3abqh said:


> GLFaria":2lv3abqh said:
> 
> 
> > As for wooden planes, I feel I am still not prepared for them...
> ...



Beautiful!!!
But as for borrowing one of yours, thank you, I would never dare.
However, I would certainly be glad to visit some day, if that would suit you. Leiria is not that far away (I live near Lisbon), and I am very sure I would have the opportunity to learn a lot - for instance about tuning a wooden plane...
Unfortunately, due to family care duties, I have precious little time to go out, and always for relatively short spans of time. Maybe some day...


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## bugbear (20 Apr 2014)

mqbernardo":ud5vslaf said:


> ... african blackwood and brazilian rosewood plane made by a friend of mine:








Oh, that's beautiful!

BugBear


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## iNewbie (20 Apr 2014)

It certainly is.

"What I really want from both QS and Juuma is the 1/2 sized planes. Most eBay sellers don't ship them overseas due to weight and those who do charge a lot (not blaming them but it's the way it is).

Sam"

That sounds strange, the weight. People ship heavier stuff than a plane. Jeez...


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## mqbernardo (20 Apr 2014)

GLFaria":kps473uj said:


> However, I would certainly be glad to visit some day, if that would suit you. Leiria is not that far away (I live near Lisbon), and I am very sure I would have the opportunity to learn a lot - for instance about tuning a wooden plane...


you´d be most welcome. just shoot me a PM when you decide to pop up.


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## G S Haydon (20 Apr 2014)

I would think 1/2 sizes would be here soon. Once a product is out there (I think they are around in the US) it wont take long for them to be offered into other markets.


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## Tony Spear (21 Apr 2014)

iNewbie":jvxcsyvk said:


> It certainly is.
> 
> "What I really want from both QS and Juuma is the 1/2 sized planes. Most eBay sellers don't ship them overseas due to weight and those who do charge a lot (not blaming them but it's the way it is).
> 
> ...



There is a difference - mail order sellers shipping individual items usually use postal services or couriers, where weight is a major factor in shipping costs. You'll actually quite often see items on eBay (planes or turning blanks are good examples) where the shipping is as costly as the item itself!

On the other hand, manufacturers shipping in bulk use containerization, where, unless special handling is required, volume is the only factor. Relatively the shipping cost per item for somebody like QS, shipping several hundred planes at a time is astonishingly lower. That's one reason that when buyers are waiting for delivery they are often told "it's on it's way" when actually it's no such thing - it really means that a fair bit of it is at the shippers premises waiting for sufficient items to leave the manufacturers works to enable them to completely "stuff" the container. The least economical thing to ship by container is air!


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## GLFaria (21 Apr 2014)

mqbernardo":1exn8l1q said:


> GLFaria":1exn8l1q said:
> 
> 
> > However, I would certainly be glad to visit some day, if that would suit you. Leiria is not that far away (I live near Lisbon), and I am very sure I would have the opportunity to learn a lot - for instance about tuning a wooden plane...
> ...



Thank you very much for your kindness. I'll do.


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## GLFaria (28 Apr 2014)

...and it arrived today.

Still no time for a really in-depth check, but my first general impressions:
- sturdy, overall manufacturing quality quite acceptable
- slightly stiff depth and lateral adjustment mechanism, even with what I would consider a slightly too loose lever cap tension (certainly looser than what I use on my other no.4); possibly in need of a little use...
- as expected, rather heavy

What I like:
-bedding and throat adjustment system
- sole adequately flat lengthwise and in the diagonals - I think! (please keep in mind I am a mechanic at heart, so when dealing with matters concerning wood I am never sure wether I am being too severe or too forgiving); my Moore and Wright engineer's square shows a little light on the transverse sense, but my thinnest feeler gauge at .25mm (.01") won't go through - would you woodworking pros deem this to be flat enough?

What I have misgivings about:
- lever-cap spring is copper??? (it is brownish, it is a-magnetic, I somehow don't see someone colouring brown a sheet of a-magnetic stainless steel just for looks)
- depth adjustment screw is brass??? (yellow, a-magnetic)
- general gaudiness - well, that was a given and to be expected; but this beeing a working tool I will not look twice
- some sharp(ish) corners on the sole need being be worked upon

What I definitely don't like: the "woodies"!!!
- The tote is too small, even for my under average-size hands; the curves are all wrong, my fingers keep wanting to bang the lateral ajustment lever, I must handle the plane as if I were putting on a glove - and not a very large one at that. This I will need to work upon even before I start using this plane, as is it is too uncomfortable. I can't see how a person with average sized hands could use this plane as it comes, much less one with large hands.
- On the contrary, the knob is a big chunk of wood, too high, not overly fat but with a shape that makes me feel like I'm holding a big, unwieldy pear. This too will have to get my attention
Well, after all, if I used to modify the grips on my competition pistols as soon as I got them, I don't see why I should not do that to a hand-plane...

There you have it for my first impressions. As I must correct the general shape of the tote and the knob, I will not start to use this plane for the next few days (have other things in line...)

(edit: inserted "holding", otherwise people might think I feel like e big, unwieldy pear - which I most certainly don't!!!)


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## bugbear (28 Apr 2014)

This thread needs photos!!

(hammer) (hammer) (hammer) 

BugBear


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## GLFaria (28 Apr 2014)

bugbear":3rr4a7s5 said:


> This thread needs photos!!
> 
> (hammer) (hammer) (hammer)
> 
> BugBear



Aye aye, Sir, as soon as I take them! Tomorrow ok?


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## Peter Sefton (28 Apr 2014)

G S Haydon":27tlj4te said:


> I would think 1/2 sizes would be here soon. Once a product is out there (I think they are around in the US) it wont take long for them to be offered into other markets.



We should have the V3 WoodRiver 41/2 and 51/2 with us very soon along with the standard 3,4,5,6 and 7. We have had our first couple in and they have been sent out to the editors for review. I hope to have some pics and a video soon.
Peter


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## Vann (28 Apr 2014)

GLFaria":ghrfnpyw said:


> - lever-cap spring is copper??? (it is brownish, it is a-magnetic, I somehow don't see someone colouring brown a sheet of a-magnetic stainless steel just for looks)


Bronze maybe? I would have thought copper would be too soft for a lever-cap (or any other sort of lever).



GLFaria":ghrfnpyw said:


> - The tote is too small, even for my under average-size hands; the curves are all wrong, my fingers keep wanting to bang the lateral ajustment lever...


May I suggest - instead of altering this tote, put it aside and make a new larger one. This will preserve the value of your plane should you ever decide to part with it - and should be a fun execise as well



bugbear":ghrfnpyw said:


> This thread needs photos!!


What he says !

Cheers, Vann.


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## GLFaria (28 Apr 2014)

Vann":2s77llvb said:


> GLFaria":2s77llvb said:
> 
> 
> > - lever-cap spring is copper??? (it is brownish, it is a-magnetic, I somehow don't see someone colouring brown a sheet of a-magnetic stainless steel just for looks)
> ...


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## GLFaria (29 Apr 2014)

Here go the requested photos; now don't say there are too many of them... Oh, it seems 10 is the maximum; there are 14 of them, I will post the remaining in a follower...

First, the gaudy looking side:





A bronze lever spring???:





Frog and mating surfaces; is that depth adjustment screw made of brass?

















The iron and the cap-iron; I don't like that cap-iron at all, I will have a lot of work sharpening and polishing it. I always thought a cap-iron should be somewhat springy for it to work properly, but I can see no springiness on this 3mm thick slab!





Now the wooddies. Notice how chunky and slab-sided the tote on the Juuma is when compared with the one of the Stanley #3 (early 70's vintage). The tote of the Juuma is not actually smaller than the Stanley - it's the space available for placing the hand that is smaller. Besides, the shape of the curves and the flatness of the sides make that the web of the hand is pressed against the upper part of the tote, making it quite uncomfortable. I know I have small hands, but at least with the Stanley I manage to reach the depth adjustment nut with my index finger. Certainly not with the Juuma...
I drew a 10mm x 10mm grid in order for it to be easier to compare the overall shape of both totes. To reduce parallax errors, each tote was photographed separately, on the same place on the grid, and the individual photos were (not very accurately, I'm afraid) combined into one.
As for the knob... no need to comment, is there?..


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## GLFaria (29 Apr 2014)

Well, let's get rid of the remaining 4 photos:

So, the knob (the one on the left is the one from the Stanley):






And the trouble with positioning my - let's say it again - smallish hand:









Finally, the small clearance or transverse concavity of the sole; the photo shows the square just in front of the mouth; I "measured" it indirectly, by comparing the light with the one I got from my electronic digital caliper. Not very accurate maybe, but that was as good as I coud get it. Gave me about .02mm (two undredths of a mm). Is that flat enough, or should I do something about it?

I suspect this plane is going to mean more work than I expected! Well, after all I am retired and need some sort of entertainment...


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## GLFaria (29 Apr 2014)

Oops, forgot the last photo... Sorry


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## G S Haydon (29 Apr 2014)

Thanks for the photos. 

If you want to prep the cap iron well this might interest you http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/tes ... _935.shtml

Both the springy and the solid work well, as long as they don't choke you're golden. Old wooden planes have the "slab" and they worked just fine

If you don't like the flatness send it back or alternatively use it. You might find it works fine. The key area is that it's adding pressure in front of the mouth.

Looks like a nice plane although I prefer the look of the QS #4


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## woodbrains (29 Apr 2014)

Hello,

The cap iron is fine, you will just need to smooth the leading edge a bit with some wet and dry paper. The thicker blade and thick cap iron work very well, the springy cap irons tend to put an arc in the blade, which defeats the object of the finely machined bed of the frog on good quality planes. We want as much blade in contact with the frog as we can get to eliminate chatter. As long as no shavings can get under the cap iron, there is no need for it to be so springy as to bend the blade.

As to the slight hollow area. It is very slight and may not be worth worrying about. If it is an 'island' of hollow, surrounded by flat areas, then this is actually a good thing. As long as the hollow does not extend back as far as the mouth area, all is well

Mike.


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## MIGNAL (29 Apr 2014)

All looks perfectly fine and well made to my eyes.


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## Richard T (2 May 2014)

A bronze lever spring???:

Phosphor bronze has 'springs' listed as one of its uses, and so do other recipes of harder bronze that I have noticed in my metal trawlings such as: 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphor_bronze

http://springs.aero/uncategorized/nicke ... e-springs/

http://www.springworksutah.com/index.ph ... ronze.html

As said above the lever cap cam spring does not have to be a super springy steel one.


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## GLFaria (2 May 2014)

Richard T":18nim8hz said:


> A bronze lever spring???:
> 
> Phosphor bronze has 'springs' listed as one of its uses, and so do other recipes of harder bronze that I have noticed in my metal trawlings such as:
> 
> ...



It's wear and deformations I was thinking about, not so much "springiness". That cam will be worked a lot along the years. Anyway, this being brass on bronze, most of the wear will probably take place on the hole for the pin - which pin I expect to be made of steel, not brass or bronze...

Thanks for the links, they probably will make for interesting reading.


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## AndyT (2 May 2014)

I've got some similar looking phosphor bronze springy bits out of old heavy duty switches and they lasted ok so I think a spring on a lever cap should be fine.


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## GLFaria (3 May 2014)

Just ploted (from the previous pictures) and superimposed the profiles of the Jumma and the Stanley totes. I took care that the grid size was the same on both pictures when plotting.

No wonder the Juuma's feels smaller. Then you add 2mm to the thickness and a much less roundish section, and there you have it...


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## AndyT (3 May 2014)

The difference between the two handle shapes may not look much in the diagram - to a non-user of planes - but it's as significant a difference as someone with size ten feet trying to wear size seven shoes.

So disappointing to think that the properly shaped handles wouldn't cost any more to make.


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## GLFaria (3 May 2014)

I guess they knew I like wodworking...

No point in trying to modify this one, it will have to be a handle made from scratch.

I will have to decide if this plane deserves a good piece of wood for the handle or a piece of any wood whatever... It will probably depend on what I happen to have at home, as I don't intend to buy wood on purpose.


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## MIGNAL (4 May 2014)

Sounds to me that you've decided that this Plane isn't all that good even before you've put it to a piece of wood. 
Why not modify the handle? It's just a matter of reshaping the very upper part of the tote, or you can graft a new piece of wood on to that upper section and reshape it. It's a lot less time consuming and it will work/feel perfectly fine.


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## GLFaria (4 May 2014)

MIGNAL":2no5f84q said:


> Sounds to me that you've decided that this Plane isn't all that good even before you've put it to a piece of wood.
> ...



Not at all, although I admit I may have expressed myself in a way that conveys that idea (I have never been a good communicator, as many a people knows...)

As far as I'm concerned, this plane may be the best cutting implement in the world, - as you say, I haven't even put it to a piece of wood, and will probably not in the next few weeks. Although, I must admit, I don't like the number of parts made of cast brass, especially the yoke, which worries me a little - I ordered a replacement just in case...

I should say there was a time when I was happy to buy any piece of equipment of the quality level I could afford, and modify or improve it to suit my needs or requirements. If I remember right, it took me about two weeks, several hours a day every day, and a lot of abrasive paper, to put my 40 year old Handyman #4 plane where I wanted it - and as far as I felt a Handyman would go. But I didn't have to touch the handle or the knob - they fit perfectly, and still does.

But as time went by, I became less and less happy to do so. I do not think I would do that again on any plane, unless it meant rehabilitating a precious old best quality tool or piece of equipment. Which is not the case now.

So, even if this plane proves to be among the best for its intended work, I can't use it comfortably. As far as I'm concerned, this could happen with a LN or a Veritas, although I doubt it.
But why should I use a fine piece of wood for making a new tote for an average quality plane? I already am going to have some work to do (not to talk about fettling, which is a matter of course...). The knob, which is a different, much plainer kind of wood than the handle, will have to be worked upon too. As for the transverse arching of the sole - which goes all the way front to back - , being so slight, I will just wait and see if the edges score the wood or not. Hope not.

As for modifying the handle, I'd rather make one from scrach - the shape of the original one may not be ok, but the wood is nice and I still may make it into something useful...


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## matthewwh (7 May 2014)

If you prefer to just fit the larger handle they are available here:






http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools...ood-No.-5--6---7-Plane-Handle---Fittings.html

The shape has been altered slightly since this photo was taken but it's a four finger grip rather than a three.


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## GLFaria (7 May 2014)

Thank you. That handle might fit me ok, but then again it might not. I'd rather not risk ending with two ill-fitting handles.

I'll copy a handle that I know fits me for sure (even at the risk of having to make more than one before I get it right...). Only some practical questions to solve concerning the counterboring of the hole (still could not find a 7/16 or a 11mm counterbore, I may have to improvise a little from 11mm drills...). But I'll get there, no doubt.


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## Racers (7 May 2014)

I drill the counterbore first in a oversized blank so any chipping can be removed, I have a long series drill reground to a lip and spur profile to drill the through hole. I mark the centre line of the hole and drill from both ends.

Pete


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## GLFaria (7 May 2014)

Thank you Pete for your suggestions.

The only time ever I made a plane handle I drilled from both ends with a 6mm (or was it 7mm?) standard drill before drilling the counterbore. I did this so I had a starter hole for the larger diameter drill I would use for the counterbore.

As my DP goes only 50mm deep, I first drilled to a 50mm depth then, without moving the blank on the table and while keeping the drill inside the hole, I lowered the drill shank as low as I could in the chuck so I could get some 1/2" or 3/4" more. I then did the same from the other side of the blank. Managed to do it ok, as luck (and care... :wink: ) had it the holes bored from each side matched perfectly.

For drilling the countersink for the nut, I used a 10mm standard drill, which was what I had at the time, then enlarged the hole with a Dremel bit - which I would rather not do this time, it's just too much work.

In the end, after making all the drilling right, I cut the base at a wrong angle and ended by not being able assemble the handle on that plane...  I'll be certain to more careful this time!


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## Racers (7 May 2014)

I find a large drill in to a pilot hole tends to snatch, so I drill the counterbore hole first using a 11mm lip and spur bit.

Pete


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## bugbear (7 May 2014)

http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/ ... gTotes.htm

https://web.archive.org/web/20100310084 ... /index.asp

When sanding, you may find this helpful, it allows maximum access.






(some good stuff stolen from saw handle making, should be applicable))

http://sprucemill.blogspot.co.uk/2008/1 ... ndles.html

http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/pdf_docs ... l_Kit2.pdf

BugBear


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## Phil Pascoe (7 May 2014)

That's exactly what I would say, Pete. You've still got a centre mark to work from for the smaller one, although if working in a drill press I don't suppose it's critical.


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## GLFaria (7 May 2014)

Thanks for the links, bugbear. I'll be sure to read into them.
Some years ago Alf also posted this: 
viewtopic.php?t=5595

I usually drill large holes by steps, never go directly from a pilot hole to a large diameter drill. However, I do this mainly because that's how I learned to do for drilling metals. I really don't know if this is the best practice for wood - would you comment, please?
I can understand the problem of the drill snatching, it has happened to me. And I am pretty sure the wood I intend to use is prone to that.
Thanks.


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## Jacob (7 May 2014)

You will find it easier to drill the holes on your blank first, before you start shaping. It's easier to shape to match the holes rather than struggling to get them aligned and central in a finished handle.
Counterbore first.


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## matthewwh (7 May 2014)

Depends on the bit you are using, pilots work for pointed drills by creating a path of least resistance, but many wood drills (lip and spur, brad point, augers, forstners) are designed to go straight into solid material. 

As Pete and Jacob said, drill the big hole first, then drill the smaller one inside it. To provide a bearing surface for the sleeved nut, a brad point drill that creates a reasonably flat bottomed hole would be favourite.


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## GLFaria (8 May 2014)

So far, in 11mm diameter, I could only find twist drills (HSS no less...). No spade, no brad, no auger - these all seem to jump from 10mm to 12mm.
So I bought one 11mm HSS twist drill - relatively expensive, but I may use it on other occasions and for other purposes - and one 12mm run-of-the-mill spade drill.
If I find no better solution, my idea is to reduce the spade drill from 12mm down to 11mm, maybe with a small relief (to 10mm or so) 2-3mm or so back of the lips, eliminate the side spurs, re-sharpen the lips, and use it just to flatten the bottom of the hole made by the twist drill.

Alternatively, after drilling the hole I can re-grind the lips of the twist dril so they are at 180 degrees (effectively making it a bottoming drill) - no special difficulty, only work, I've done it before - but I would rather keep this drill intact, so I will probably make a test run on a scrap piece to ascertain if the spade drill modified as per above is a viable solution or not.

Crazy?


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## Jacob (8 May 2014)

Spade drill won't work in a predrilled hole - it needs solid wood for the point to locate and guide.
It's not difficult to shape a twist drill into a spur bit, on the corner of a grindwheel, perhaps dress the wheel nice and square first


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## AndyT (8 May 2014)

You could look for a 7/16" drill bit, which is the same size as 11mm.


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## GLFaria (8 May 2014)

Jacob":3brrnwfi said:


> Spade drill won't work in a predrilled hole - it needs solid wood for the point to locate and guide.
> It's not difficult to shape a twist drill into a spur bit, on the corner of a grindwheel, perhaps dress the wheel nice and square first



The point will be drilling in solid wood - the bottom of the hole previously made with the 11mm twist drill. I believe this, plus the wall of the previously made hole, would give enough support to guide the spade drill, which would only have to do a light work flattening the bottom of the hole.
The sequence of the drilling would be: 1) drill blind 11mm diameter hole, 2) flatten the bottom with the modifed spade drill, 3) drill 6mm hole through the blank.



AndyT":3brrnwfi said:


> You could look for a 7/16" drill bit, which is the same size as 11mm.



I did. It is proving even more difficult to find a 7/16" drill bit than an 11mm one around here. This country is fully metric these days. It would have been the contrary, say some 40 or 50 years ago, when I had to go to some specific suppliers to find metric taps, for instance... Now it seems I would have to order it from abroad - with shipping charges besides.

(edited, so this might be a little more comprehensive)


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## GLFaria (9 May 2014)

Well, it seems I will eventually be able to buy a 11mm brad point bit (thanks for the tip, bugbear). Would you believe I had to order it? I could not find anyone ten miles around of where I live who stocked this size. So I ordered it through a local tool and hardware store. Expect to have it by mid next week.

Scrounging the (very, very shallow) bottom of my wood "store", I finally found one piece of wood of about the right dimensions to make a plane handle. Nicely coloured and figured, tough, wear resistant. A bit thin at 23mm, but anyway...,

The drawback? It's pterocarpus erinaceus, a.k.a. vene, and it's one of the worst woods I ever worked (only twice, and I hoped I would not have to do it again...). Of the very few tropical woods I ever worked with, I put it second worst only to Ipe (and that's because of that noxious, pervasive, yellow dust ipe releases when it is cut). Where I brought it from it was used for flooring, as it was so wear resistant. It has a rather coarse, open grained texture, somewhat wavy and difficult grain, but it is very hard (I had to hone the blade of my plane four times before I managed to get the sides of that sample resonably flat (not really flat, mind you)

I don't even know wether this is a good wood for making a plane handle or not. I'm afraid it will have to do, but could any of you much more knowledgeable than I am tell me the pros and cons of using it and any specific tips you may know about working vene?

Thanks


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## mqbernardo (9 May 2014)

can´t help you with that wood, but it does look very nice to my eyes. 
would you prefer some cherry or walnut? i have some left overs i could spare. or some boxwood, if you´re feeling bold. i can search some tropicals too.

best,
Miguel.


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## GLFaria (9 May 2014)

mqbernardo":2m9ql6bq said:


> can´t help you with that wood, but it does look very nice to my eyes.
> would you prefer some cherry or walnut? i have some left overs i could spare. or some boxwood, if you´re feeling bold. i can search some tropicals too.
> 
> best,
> Miguel.



Thank you very much indeed for your generous offer. I felt tempted to accept. But then I thought, unless someone here says categorically "don't do it!", this may be a very interesting challenge (we'll see if I still find it interesting along the way; but once started...). If I don't manage to make a handle with this wood, and if at the time you still keep your offer, then maybe...

BTW, I had thought of driving to Leiria at the beginning of next week (the person I usually take care of will not be here), but then I remembered it's the 12th and 13th May, which means the road traffic in the vicinity will probably be horrendous, so I gave up.

May I ask where you buy your wood?


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## Phil Pascoe (10 May 2014)

Miguel, your wood is wear resistant and hard to plane yet you wish to CARVE it and SAND it into a plane handle? Are you a masochist?


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## GLFaria (10 May 2014)

phil.p":iw5mde74 said:


> Miguel, your wood is wear resistant and hard to plane yet you wish to CARVE it and SAND it into a plane handle? Are you a masochist?



eeer...not Miguel, me.
Not really masochistic, I'd say just a little stubborn... besides being the wood I have right now, I'm curious of seeing what it will look like when made into a handle - if I manage to, that is.
I'ts true they reccomend stellite bits for cutting it, but anyway... there are always those rasps for use with electrical hand drills  

Miguel, in case it makes it easier for you to identify, this wood was called pau-sangue in Guinea-Bissau, where it came from (although the same family, _Fabaceae_, it is quite different from the brasilian wood of the same name). It is also know as pterocarpus africanus. No need to tell you why I had to stay in Guinea for a time, I guess...


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## mqbernardo (10 May 2014)

Well, i buy my wood from lots of places. Tonewood dealers, mostly. I was also fortunate to find a closing cabinet maker which sold me some pieces on the cheap. I also visit some lumberyards here and there (somapil near Leira, Madeiras Oeste in Benedita, Pinto Leitao in Oporto and some other in Braga which name i forgot). For smaller pieces of more valuable lumber i sometimes indulge on some "wood safaris" in the Pacos de Ferreira region. You can still buy some nice brazilian rosewood, ebony, satinwood here: http://www.folhas-classicas.pt/

Pau sangue: a friend of mine ( his site: http://www.orlandotrindade.net/ ) is a fine instrument builder and has some sets of pau sangue - i never used it, though. I thought it could be a Guibortia (bubinga family) but it turns out it´s a Pterocarpus (Padauk family). Thanks for the info.

all the best,
Miguel.


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## GLFaria (10 May 2014)

Thanks a lot. I usually cant't stay away for long, but I'll start to do some planning...

I think I have heard or read the name Orlando Trindade before, but can't guess where or when.


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