# Tool cleaning and restoration Links



## AndyT

*Old Tool Revival*

Old tool cleaning part 1 - use of wax
Old tool cleaning part 2 - rust removal with abrasives
Old tool cleaning part 3 - paint removal with turps
Old tool cleaning part 4 - general cleaning with reviver

Rust removal with a glass fibre brush

*Saw refurbishment*
By Bluekingfisher: Comprehensive restoration of two dovetail back saws

By Deema Restoration and re-teething of a 99p saw

*Plane restoration*
By Sploo: How to make new rear handles/totes for hand planes
A long discussion centred on the conservative restoration of a Stanley No 8 by Memzey: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/tool-restoration-how-far-should-we-go-t94935.html

Making as new again
By Custard: Cleaning brass when knurled or shaped

Record and Stanley plane screw threads

https://handtoolmanual.com/screw-sizes- ... ch-planes/


Please add a reply for any new hand tool renovation tips or threads posted on this site or elsewhere which you think deserve a place here.


----------



## G S Haydon

Having seen the success of citric acid and vinegar as rust remover I was eager to try it out. As I'm making a copy of a neglected Mathieson jack plane both the iron and cap iron has rust that needed to be removed. Anyone planning rut removal should think carefully before they start as potentially well meant "restoration" could detract from the tool value. I found the results to be very good. It prevented too much elbow grease and dust. Using stuff you can find in the kitchen cupboards means it's very accessible. Here's how I got on with some before and after photos at the end. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGtgEAEtpxM


----------



## bugbear

G S Haydon":1eg7mzd7 said:


> Andy, not sure if it's worthy but here is how I got on with lemon juice and vinegar as a rust remover https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGtgEAEtpxM



I'm sure it's worthy, but I would like some kind of summary/synopsis before watching a video.

(I also hate the new emphasis on video over text on the BBC news web site, but that's by-the-by)

BugBear


----------



## Random Orbital Bob

I'm in the middle of restoring a 17 year old Woodfast Lathe. A real beauty too. This had rusty beds and other components. I bought Garryflex blocks for the first time and found them to be absolutely superb for rust removal. No mess, no WD40, no slurry, just rub and go.


----------



## G S Haydon

No worries BB and a fair comment  , will add a description later this evening.


----------



## davo453

I am big believer in molasses for rust removal and unlike electrolysis it does not work harden the metal. 

I have used the stuff for many years to derust sometimes extremely rusted tools of all sizes I have even done engine blocks in it, a lathe body and a light truck chassis in a tank made from timber and plastic sheet. 

It is not fast though heavily rusted components can take 2 weeks to do but the result is amazing. 

It is a bit messy but it washes away in water. 

I buy the molasses from a stock feed company it is commonly used as a horse feed supplement do not use the stuff sold in Morrisions etc as they take out the sulphur. 

Mixed 1pt molasses to 7 parts water (or weaker if you like) emerse the item in the stuff and leave.

it is cheap gentle and very effective.

Dave


----------



## kdampney

I tried restoring some planes using white vinegar - it worked fantastically (unfortunately partly disolving some aluminium knobs!), and I wiped a bit of 3-in-1 oil over to stop them from rusting. I put them back on the shelf, and now, a few months later, they are more rusty than they were at the start!

Any advice on preventing rust?


----------



## GLFaria

kdampney":r0vyu4ka said:


> I tried restoring some planes using white vinegar - it worked fantastically (unfortunately partly disolving some aluminium knobs!), and I wiped a bit of 3-in-1 oil over to stop them from rusting. I put them back on the shelf, and now, a few months later, they are more rusty than they were at the start!
> 
> Any advice on preventing rust?



"A wipe" is not nearly enough fo a treatment with acid, which is what vinegar is (acetic acid).
Immediatly after taking the parts out of the acid you must rinse them with plenty of water and then literally drown them in oil and let them stay so for a couple hours.
In some cases I even warm the de-rusted parts in the kitchen oven - low temperature - before dipping them in oil, to make sure the oil acts more effectively (not my recipe, please note, I learnt that trick from some books on gunsmithing when I was involved in metalworking). Then, if you are not going to use them in the near future, wipe off the oil, dry the pieces, and coat them with neutral vaseline (no need to go to the chemist, the industrial kind used for for protecting lead battery terminals works very well)

I have even de-rusted steel pieces with hydrochloric acid (quite a bit stronger than vinegar) without having had any problems afterwards.
The problem with this method, as with any method involving acids, is the parts always become slightly pitted, or at least dulled to some degree - more with a stronger or undiluted acid, less witha week or diluted acid; time also plays a part. This may render this method inadvisable in some cases.


----------



## G S Haydon

kdampney, sorry to hear the rust came back! I gave my attempts a good wiping down in baby oil, no rinsing in water. That coupled with use and and a wipe down now and again seems to have everything in check.


----------



## Bigbud78

Found a great little slide show of a plane resto, very nice work 

http://www.majorpanic.com/Slide_Show.htm


----------



## JonnyW

Has anyone used the Shield Technology on rust removal and prevention? http://www.shieldtechnology.co.uk

I bought their pre-clean and rust remover solution which I've not tried yet, but the reviews seems to be pretty good. Eats the rust and not the good metal etc etc type hype.

Their web site is a bit of a mess (or it was when I was last on it - I did email them to tell them it was a shambles), but their meaning is there and the background to how, what and where etc seems to be excellent.

The rust prevention paste is excellent and after a good buff, goes hard and doesn't attract the dust. My only mistake was to apply it after 'groping my tool' with sweaty or moist fingers! so I ended up with well preserved rusty finger prints a couple of days later.

I'll post some pre and post restoration photos using the Shield Technology as I have a few planes to clean up.

Jonny


----------



## MCB

JonnyW":squ9igyj said:


> Has anyone used the Shield Technology on rust removal and prevention? http://www.shieldtechnology.co.uk
> 
> I bought their pre-clean and rust remover solution which I've not tried yet, but the reviews seems to be pretty good. Eats the rust and not the good metal etc etc type hype.
> 
> Their web site is a bit of a mess (or it was when I was last on it - I did email them to tell them it was a shambles), but their meaning is there and the background to how, what and where etc seems to be excellent.
> 
> The rust prevention paste is excellent and after a good buff, goes hard and doesn't attract the dust. My only mistake was to apply it after 'groping my tool' with sweaty or moist fingers! so I ended up with well preserved rusty finger prints a couple of days later.
> 
> I'll post some pre and post restoration photos using the Shield Technology as I have a few planes to clean up.
> 
> Jonny



I inherited a lot of tools when a chum had to give up his workshop when his wife and he moved into a flat. Some he had acquired from somebody else and those were rusted solid.

I left them in Shield Technology's RESTORE for a week or so and all the parts that were rusted solid were freed. 

I am very happy with the results.

I have no connection with Shield Technology other than being a satisfied customer

MC Black


----------



## memzey

I've used their rust removal gel and rest prevention liquid and it seems to work very well. The rust remover really takes rust off quickly and doesn't need very much at all to go a long way. The rust prevention liquid dries clear to the point you wouldn't know it was there but does so very rapidly so you need to get the lid back on the tin quickly! I applied it to the cast iron tables of my drill press and HCM a couple of weeks ago and so far no rust has returned at all. Not a jot. Had I left the tables as was or just applied furniture paste wax (which was my previous practice) I wouldn't have gone 5 days of the recent weather in my damp shed without major rust problems. I guess I'll have to see how well it holds up over time but the signs are promising so far.


----------



## farwalker

Hi I am new to the site and would like some advise if possible ,I was left a toolbox full of fitted GTL tools they look like they have not been used the chisels still have the paper tip protectors etc but they have been sitting in a very damp basement and are all very rusty ,should I clean them up or should I leave them all dirty and rusty? as some people say cleaning them loses all their value I thought I would ask the experts .PS This is my first post so I hope it is Ok.


----------



## Bm101

farwalker":35c1eesa said:


> Hi I am new to the site and would like some advise if possible ,I was left a toolbox full of fitted GTL tools they look like they have not been used the chisels still have the paper tip protectors etc but they have been sitting in a very damp basement and are all very rusty ,should I clean them up or should I leave them all dirty and rusty? as some people say cleaning them loses all their value I thought I would ask the experts .PS This is my first post so I hope it is Ok.



Hi and welcome,
I'd post a few pictures of them in the handtools section hand-tools.html for more informed response than I can give you. I think they were Guaranteed Tools Limited? If so, I don't_ think _they will hold any great value although I could well be wrong, I'm certainly no expert. Maybe a boxed set could be worth a fortune... :| I wouldn't pack the day job in_ just_ yet though. :wink: 
There's a little information on them in the links below. Bit harder to find info on their non-plane tools. Searching for info on the net about them is hampered by another unrelated Chinese tool company called GTL so search using 'vintage GTL' variants. 
http://www.handplanedatabase.com/the-da ... l-limited/ 
viewtopic.php?t=9640
gtl-plane-any-ideas-t27375.html
Be interesting to see some pics though. If they _are_ valuable because they are unusually rare or collectible then you're right, sell them as they are. I think collectors like to do any work themselves generally. Hopefully a more knowledgeable member will be along to advise shortly.

Cheers
Chris


----------



## Silly_Billy

Has anyone seen or tried ProtecTool Wax Polish? 

It's marked as a non-toxic, soft-paste wax for protecting steel and iron. However, I was wondering if it would be double up as a wax for plane soles too.


----------



## Bm101

I've used it as part of some gear I got as a job lot from a ukw member who sold up a load of stuff some time back to move abroad. Best used warm it works really well for purpose. For waxing soles it would be very expensive. I'd just use a candle. Does all you need it to do and infinitely cheaper. :wink:


----------



## Bluekingfisher

BM101 - Did you not rip the poop out of Jacob for his suggestion on using candle wax over your suggestion of highly marketed exotic oil?


----------



## Bm101

No. I made what was supposed to a tongue in cheek light hearted _joke_ aimed a bit at Jacob but certainly not in any way 'ripping the poop'. I know he is far more knowledgeable about woodworking than many if not most. He's probably forgotten more than I'll ever learn certainly. Like many others I was glad when his previous ban was lifted because he adds a lot to the forum and tbh it was *A Bit Quiet* without him.
I've also been on here long enough to know he likes to poke a bit of fun and I would guess that as with most people who like a joke he can take a bit of humour back. That'd be my guess. 
If you look at any of my posts I try to be polite and respectful to other members. 
Good you feel the need to defend him but I'm not sure he needs it tbh. 
Not sure if you misread the thread but at no point did I recommend any expensive finishes or ever have done... Unless you count the cost of a white foal and finding a spare virgin or two to sacrifice of course.
Might have been better if you'd PM'd me instead of relating to it on a completely different thread with no link or context if I'm honest.
Cheers now.
Regards
Chris


----------



## kevanf1

Little late in seeing this post but I do note a fairly recent entry...

If you use acid for rust removal (brick cleaner is quick & cheap but aggressive) then a good idea is to rinse the tool out in a sodium bicarbonate (washing soda, not baking soda which will work but it's expensive). Washing soda is an alkaline and will neutralise most acids used for rust removal. A further rinse with plain water and then a good fast drying out with a hot air gun will help prevent 'flash' rusting. Of course give the tool a really good spraying or wiping with a general purpose oil (3 in 1 or equivalent). I tend to save the dregs out of fresh motor oil canisters and dilute it about 50/50 with white spirit. I wouldn't use 'used' motor oil though as it is slightly acidic so defeating the whole rinsing procedure


----------



## Nic.Watson

Quick note of thanks. I found this when looking for advice after being given a Stanley no.4 and no.6 plane that had sat rusting on a shelf for years. They’ve come up almost as good as new.


----------



## woodhutt

GLFaria":359gjsy7 said:


> "A wipe" is not nearly enough fo a treatment with acid, which is what vinegar is (acetic acid).
> In some cases I even warm the de-rusted parts in the kitchen oven - low temperature - before dipping them in oil, to make sure the oil acts more effectively (not my recipe, please note, I learnt that trick from some books on gunsmithing when I was involved in metalworking). Then, if you are not going to use them in the near future, wipe off the oil, dry the pieces, and coat them with neutral vaseline (no need to go to the chemist, the industrial kind used for for protecting lead battery terminals works very well)



I restored an old No 4 using the citric acid technique to remove the rust. After flattening the sole and generally cleaning-up, I put the body out in the sun to warm (the warm oven suggestion sounds just as good) then smeared it in lanolin (plentiful here in NZ  ). Once cool, I wiped off the excess. The plane lived for three years in my often damp shop before the first signs of rust bloom started to show on the sides and it was a simple matter to clean it off and re-coat.
Pete


----------

