# Sanding sealer



## woodpig (9 Aug 2016)

My favourite finish is cellulose sanding sealer but sometimes it doesn't bring out the grain very well. Are there any oils that can be applied underneath CSS or won't it "stick" once an oil is applied? I'm wondering about Lemon oil in particular.


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## CHJ (9 Aug 2016)

Don't think any 'Sealer' would be recommended for application on top of Oils which are intended to penetrate the wood and make the surface resistant to moisture and protect from handling.

Lemon Oil is usually just a White Spirit type base carrier for a Citrus aroma concentrate, as such it's relatively slow to evaporate and leaves a silky sheen finish to wood, doubt the grain would maintain its 'pop' after it had dried off sufficiently for a sealer to bond well.

If you want a 'sealed' surface (hard skinned) I would suggest that you need a Hard Wax or at least a polymerising oil.


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## ED65 (9 Aug 2016)

You'd need a drying oil at least if you want to apply just about any finish afterwards and especially for a lacquer.

Boiled linseed oil is the classic thing to bring out the grain and you can safely overcoat this with shellac and varnishes, not sure about lacquer. At any rate you'd want to wait for it to be properly 'dry' which takes a while which I'm guessing wouldn't suit? You can use shellac as an intermediate coating but if you're using shellac anyway there's a lot to be said for using it as the final finish.


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## woodpig (9 Aug 2016)

I seem to remember that you can seal wood with Danish oil before over coating with paint. If I can find my DO I may do a quick test to see if that works.


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## ED65 (10 Aug 2016)

Danish is a dilute mix of oil and varnish so it'll do a similar job to BLO, maybe not quite as pronounced but near as damn it. 

Still the potential problem of a compatibility issue with the lacquer though because the solvent can be very 'hot' or aggressive.


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## thetyreman (10 Aug 2016)

For sealing wood I'd use shellac, make sure it's quite thin something like 1lb or 1/2lb cut, that is all you need, you can then put oil over it..

I use lemon oil for cleaning the fretboards on my guitars and it works well for that, stops the wood from drying out but leaves a smooth finish.


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## s34n (1 Mar 2017)

Hi everyone, 
I'm making a wooden sign for an outside stable door using pine board, i first need to seal it with a clear drying sanding sealer to prevent the spray paint soaking into the wood, I will be then carving the words and such, after which I will be spraying on the paint, then sanding of the high areas leaving the inset letters and areas in black paint and the outset areas the original wood colour.
I'm no expert and I was following the advice of a guy on youtube from America, and it was he that said he used a water based sanding sealer...I think was called Minwax that was milky in colour but dried clear I think.. however this " Water based Clear drying Sanding sealer doesn't seem to exist here in the U.K so any advice or a solution or advice for an EXACT equivalent would be totally appreciated.
This is the guy and video,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtrCDwfo0fA&t=152s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNAbSFhLVvo&t=425s


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## CHJ (1 Mar 2017)

s34n":2wi3qpil said:


> ..." Water based Clear drying Sanding sealer doesn't seem to exist here in the U.K so any advice or a solution or advice for an EXACT equivalent would be totally appreciated.
> ...



There are many water based Acrylic sealer brands available in the UK.
But I think you are in for disappointment if your wood has any open grain as the black paint is going to find its way into any pores of any depth even though the wood is sealed.
You are probably going to have to remove more surface thickness than just simple sanding.


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## s34n (1 Mar 2017)

The wood is pine board normally used for shelving.

There are many water based Acrylic sealer brands available in the UK.
But I think you are in for disappointment if your wood has any open grain as the black paint is going to find its way into any pores of any depth even though the wood is sealed.
You are probably going to have to remove more surface thickness than just simple sanding.[/quote]


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## ColeyS1 (2 Mar 2017)

I think I'd be tempted to spray mount on some paper first- perhaps lining paper ? I've done this several times- printing pictures, then routing out detail. If you're lucky the paper should peel off easily afterwards. Worst case scenario is a belt sander makes light work of removing it. Needless to say, paint first, then remove the paper. Having a paper barrier may help stop the paint from going to deep into the grain.
I like the sign.Might have a go at making one myself someday.

Coley

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