# What could u make a workbench out of for little £?



## LuptonM (7 Oct 2010)

I've decided I want to make a workbench but have little cash to splash. I think for my budget I really have to scavenge solid wood worktops, wooden beams and timber of ebay (or in the market place of this forum) that is going cheap and only has cash on collection (ie. things that aren't easy to post). I might even have to mash layers together out of different woods to get a thick enough top

I know some people use mdf or plywood for the tops but even that would be quite expensive, if u want a roubo type bench. How would u hand plane mdf if it warped slightly? Plus it would look ugly

I think the best wood, if possible, to make a workbench out of here, price wise, would have to be European oak ( has a slight advantage over beech) and not SYP like many disillusioned souls who skim read the workbench book by Mr Schwarz 

On another note, would solid wood floor boards be suitable for a workbench top? I have no idea how laying a floor works so, I am not sure about it- tongue and groove right? but would they clamp tight (so no gaps)?

Ideally I want to get the solid wood for a 1.5m-2m x 65cm x 8cm deep worktop for about £50. I know thats going to be a challenge but I also know its possible- though . I wouldn't want to pay much more since I don't really have enough confidence in my skills
I would have to spend some dough to get some decent hand tools, maybe a jointer plane, marking gauge, ow angle block plane and a shoulder plane. Possibly some of the speciality planes could be bought of ebay for under £20. However I would want a decent jointer plane as it would be used alot in the future (christmas present to myself?) and badly joined wood is just ugly.

I figure I could probably get away by routing the tenons, after taking the bulk of with a cheap hand saw and cleaning the shoulder with a shoulder plane. Rout free hand till I get near the shoulders and use a plane blade to place a straight edge of some form to the line and use a bearing bit. Mortises could be routed, with the corners cleaned up with a firmer chisel
BTW I won't be undertaking this project, if I can get permission from my parents to stick an eye saw into the garage, until at-least Christmas


----------



## Paul Chapman (7 Oct 2010)

LuptonM":3rde5ec5 said:


> Plus it would look ugly



Nothing ugly about an MDF bench







In fact I think it looks quite cool 8) 8) :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## brihol (7 Oct 2010)

Although it's a lot smaller than you suggest, I made one of these http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/189 ... ne-is-easy
and it works really well. A video and detailed plan are included.I made the top thicker than they suggest out of two pieces of 25mm mdf glued and screwed together from an 8x4 board from B&Q. I'm sure you could adapt the size of the design according to your needs. I tracked down some long (3m) lengths of M10 studding from a local electrical supplier.
Brian


----------



## knappers (7 Oct 2010)

I too built mine based on the finewoodworking.com design.
My frame was built entirely from wood scavenged from large pallets at work. I bought the 10mm studding from an aircon ducting place on ebay, built the top from two sheets of 25mm mdf from B&Poo and lipped with hardwood. Bench vice scrounged from my dad's old bench (and fitted with new hardwood jaws).
Cost very little to make, and should make a nice starter bench.
I started putting a WIP on this thread, but it needs updating...

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/project-2-a-bench-t42681.html

Si.


----------



## Mike.C (7 Oct 2010)

Luptonm wrote



> I know some people use mdf or plywood for the tops but even that would be quite expensive, if u want a roubo type bench. How would u hand plane mdf if it warped slightly? Plus it would look ugly



Personally out of all the benches I have seen on UKW Paul's has to be one of the best. Alright it may not be the best looking, but it is far from ugly. And anyway looks take a back seat when it comes usefulness. As far as I can see he can hack away at some timber (not that he hacks  ), and when he wrecks the top he just takes the upper one off and replaces it with a new piece.

Now compare his against mine 





http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... prod21594/

Mine is as solid as his, better looking, made of beech, and has a lovely tail vice, but it also has a price tag of at least £400 more expensive. Ok I was lucky and paid Axminster about £200 less then that, but it was still a lot more then Paul's.

If I was in the market for a bench I would without doubt make my own, but at the time this was not possible.

I do not know if there are anymore going, but if you search for work benches, benches/ table's you will find a couple of links from some who was giving ex school hardwood benches away. Sorry I am a bit vague, but I just glanced through the threads. Maybe someone else could point you in the right direction  

Good luck with your bench

Mike


----------



## woodbloke (7 Oct 2010)

Paul Chapman":3ugqwjzx said:


> LuptonM":3ugqwjzx said:
> 
> 
> > Plus it would look ugly
> ...


...and very strong. I'd face an MDF top with some sacrificial hardboard (stick it down with d/s carpet tape) but it's not essential - Rob


----------



## LuptonM (7 Oct 2010)

Maybe I just have he Schwarz bug, and I just don't like MDF anyway
Granted u can make the top out of MDF for about £20 but I'd rather pay a bit more and make a nice hardwood one (though the legs can be softwood if they want). If it looks quite nice then I'll be more likely to be in the mood to make nicer things on it- purely physcological 

I'd rather make my own bench -give something to do in the evenings

That bench (http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... prod21594/) is a good example of a badly designed bench (probably) according to Mr Schwarz

-The top isn't thick enough
-the draw will get in the way
-the legs aren't flush with the edge of the worktop, so no clamping to the side
-the apron gets in the way of clamping
- the legs are spindly
-dog holes too far apart


----------



## OLD (7 Oct 2010)

Second hand fire doors are solid timber and heavy, covered with 18mm mdf and softwood under frame job done for little money any design you care for and little time spent .


----------



## LuptonM (7 Oct 2010)

Are fire doors really solid wood? Wouldn't they burn nicely?

If so this is near by http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/fire-doors-/15050 ... 230a9161b1

would make a perfect worktop if it was


----------



## speed (7 Oct 2010)

LuptonM":gzg5m1oe said:


> Are fire doors really solid wood? Wouldn't they burn nicely?
> 
> If so this is near by http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/fire-doors-/15050 ... 230a9161b1
> 
> would make a perfect worktop if it was



most firedoors are solid chipboard core, you can get solid timber tho, a 7x3 firedoor blank will be solid timber and imo perfect size


----------



## Karl (7 Oct 2010)

I'd go for Paul's recommendation, which I followed
















Cheers

Karl[/img]


----------



## beech1948 (7 Oct 2010)

One of the best initial bench buiulds was written by Bob Keys in the US.

Softwood from the DIY shop, good vice hardware and solid construction skills.

To make it cost less you could substitute the softwood top for an MDF double layer plus some tempered hardboard.

Bob Keys site is down but it is available from the Wayback Machine.

good luck
Alan


----------



## Alf (7 Oct 2010)

beech1948":1lfx553e said:


> One of the best initial bench buiulds was written by Bob Keys in the US.
> 
> Softwood from the DIY shop, good vice hardware and solid construction skills.
> 
> ...



Bob and Dave's Good, Fast and Cheap Bench (PDF)


----------



## LuptonM (7 Oct 2010)

I'll think I'll bide my time and wait for a solid wood worktop to pop up on ebay close to me. I'll probably end up having to buy 2 to get the thickness but it shouldn't exceed £50. Should cost about the same amount as softwood but more than mdf but similar to birch ply

Any ideas on the rough cost of legs and stretchers - don't mind having them made of softwood but would like them to be quite thick?

That guy in the pdf spent £125 on wood and vices. I doubt the record vices were too spendy so he maybe spent £90 on wood. 

Anyway whats the recommendation on fair priced vices in the uk?


----------



## barkwindjammer (7 Oct 2010)

A fire door is what I'm using, topped off with MDF, should have some WIP pics this side of 2011  

Q: for the guys that have used MDF, is it Moisture resistant, and do you put a finish on it (yours looks shiny Paul-oeeer missus)?


----------



## Karl (7 Oct 2010)

barkwindjammer":lu9trr44 said:


> Q: for the guys that have used MDF, is it Moisture resistant, and do you put a finish on it (yours looks shiny Paul-oeeer missus)?



I put some Chestnut melamime lacquer, followed by a couple of coats of wax. It's held up pretty well, but could probably do with re-finishing.

HTH

Cheers

Karl


----------



## mtr1 (7 Oct 2010)

Made mine from re-claimed Keruing, pine, oak, mahagany, and beech. Total cost 20yrs ago £45.


----------



## barkwindjammer (7 Oct 2010)

Did you use MR MDF Karl?, and where would a gentleman of a virtuos inquiring nature negate a fine and resplendant livery such as Chestnut melamime lacquer

(been reading the fascinating post on Briar pipes Grayson)


----------



## matt (7 Oct 2010)

:lol:


----------



## Karl (7 Oct 2010)

barkwindjammer":60khwn6y said:


> Did you use MR MDF Karl?, and where would a gentleman of a virtuos inquiring nature negate a fine and resplendant livery such as Chestnut melamime lacquer
> 
> (been reading the fascinating post on Briar pipes Grayson)



Don't think it was MRMDF - can't remember, but i'm sure I bought it from B&Q.

Chestnut lacquer is available from Axminster.

Cheers

Karl


----------



## Paul Chapman (7 Oct 2010)

barkwindjammer":2xng5dbh said:


> Q: for the guys that have used MDF, is it Moisture resistant, and do you put a finish on it (yours looks shiny Paul-oeeer missus)?



Mine was just ordinary MDF. Three sheets of 18mm lipped with soft wood then glued together with a few biscuits for alignment.

That photograph that I posted was when the bench was about 10 years old and had been used regularly, so it's about 12 years old now and still looks as good as new. All I do is wax it now and then.

When I built it I intended it to be a temporary bench until I had the time and money to build something better but it's been so good, I've stuck with it. I did worry that the dog holes wouldn't stand up to much use but they've been fine and I use them all the time with the various Veritas dogs.

What I think is more important than what the bench is made from, are the various work-holding features. The dog holes have been a real boon. I use two Record vices with dogs but I've recently bought a Veritas twin-screw vice which I'll be fitting to the front. I also plan to buy the new Veritas tail vice http://www.brimarc.com/products/Veritas ... 830293.htm So the two Records will be replaced in due course and the bench modified.

I think it is important to decide how you want to use the bench. I use predominantly hand tools but someone who is more into power tools might prefer a slightly different style of bench.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Shane (7 Oct 2010)

I use my bench for both hand tool and power tool work, also for a lot of assembly work, so I prefer to use full 8x4 sheets of mdf on a slightly lower bench so I can easily reach over it


----------



## Phil Sewell (7 Oct 2010)

I spent some time on my "dream bench" a couple of years ago, I've recently added it to my website. It's made from workshop off-cuts so is a mix of timbers. The top is ex 4" at the front where I'll be pounding with a hammer but the back part is sacrificial mdf. The adjustable bench dogs work really well.

Heres the link if anybody is interested.

http://www.finehandmadeboxes.co.uk/the% ... 0bench.htm
Phil.


----------



## LuptonM (7 Oct 2010)

Phil Sewell":mrou6kkq said:


> I spent some time on my "dream bench" a couple of years ago, I've recently added it to my website. It's made from workshop off-cuts so is a mix of timbers. The top is ex 4" at the front where I'll be pounding with a hammer but the back part is sacrificial mdf. The adjustable bench dogs work really well.
> 
> Heres the link if anybody is interested.
> 
> ...


 
Not bad at all. Def one of the better posted ones 

My workbenches is going to be mainly for hand tools as the only power tools I'll be using is a thickness planer and a router. No point in sanding if you've got a scraper. I'd like to add a bandsaw to that but I'll have to wait 

I reckon I'll be doing allot of planing ( stock prep), maybe a bit of dovetailing, M and T'ing and a bit of routing now and again. I'd quite like to make electric guitars and high end furniture on my workbench once I learn the skills to do so (just as a hobby mind u)


----------



## mickthetree (7 Oct 2010)

whats your location LuptonM?


----------



## LuptonM (7 Oct 2010)

Home- Ringwood (near Bournemouth)

term time- Oxford 

Your not going to send Ninja's are u?


----------



## mickthetree (7 Oct 2010)

hiyar! karate chop!

There is probably a wood reclaimation centre near by. My bench is made of an old roof rafter £15 from a local reclaimation yard. At 11" x 3.5" I got 2 x 120cm lengths, jointed and glued them together. Its been very useful and sturdy.

Record 52 1/2 vice and robert is your mothers brother as they say.

The base is made from some 3 x 2s from an old door frame. 

I like the old pine top, Its forgiving on your tools yet hard enough to take a pounding and easy to tidy up with a hand plane.

I'll try and take some photos tomorrow.


----------



## mtt.tr (7 Oct 2010)

To be honest i dont think it matters what Mr Schwartz so long as it works for you. Might not work for him but might be ok for somebody else.

Whats wrong with it being unattractive so long as it works i would personally use mdf possible hardboard on top so it can be easily replaced


----------



## GazPal (8 Oct 2010)

A cheap work bench can readily be made, with the worktop from 4x2 joist on edge (Faced using hardwood or ply and nosed with hardwood quadrant), with frame and legs from 4x2 joist and 4x4 posts.

MDF is fine for surfaces, but resists flattening if it wanders from true and tends not to hold up to well to moisture/spills (Delamination and particle separation) unless well sealed and wears pretty quickly if you're using hold fasts on a regular basis. Also be sure to solidly frame out areas where vise are fitted.


----------



## bugbear (8 Oct 2010)

LuptonM":1gksbi64 said:


> Anyway whats the recommendation on fair priced vices in the uk?



Car boot sale. You should be able to get Record #52 or similar for around 5-20 depending on luck and persistence, or your ability to get up as early as jimi43.

Tip: when buying a quick release vice, check that the vice can be closed hard up without the thread slipping. Plain screw vices seem to last pretty much for ever.

BugBear


----------



## bugbear (8 Oct 2010)

Paul Chapman":3i5pfaxn said:


> I think it is important to decide how you want to use the bench. I use predominantly hand tools but someone who is more into power tools might prefer a slightly different style of bench.



The key thing with a hand tool bench (read: planing bench) is a rigid frame to resist racking, and a flat(ish) top if you intend to work thin stuff.

One can easily make an (ugly) rack resistant frame by adding either sheet goods or diagonal laths to the faces of a simple rectilinear frame.

Making a rack resistant frame in the "classic" way using M&T joints requires skill and good materials.

BugBear


----------



## dr.nick (21 Oct 2012)

I stripped down and beefed up an old work bench that actually came with my house. I based my new bench top on Paul Chapman's design. 3 layers of mdf and lipped w/ 2-1/2" maple. I put and old columbian vise on there and got some bench dogs. The veritas end vise looks awesome but a bit out of my price range. I have a smaller vise i will put on the front eventually. 
It's very heavy and would be really hard to get it to move.
I made a 12' bench and didn't break the bank.


----------



## baldpate (21 Oct 2012)

If your workshop layout permits, one of the best ways to make a bench resistant to racking is to tie it at the back to a wall.

The M&T joints in the under-frame of my bench (made long ago, when I was starting out) are pretty poor and the bench was quite floppy until I bolted the back of the frame to a brick wall. It's now solid as a rock.


----------



## Elapid (21 Oct 2012)

My bench is just made from pine 2x4. I just made 2 strong frames front and back of double thickness then screwed and glued 2x4 across the top and bottom making sure the top is perfectly flat then topped it off with MDF with a bit of planking around that can be replaced when needed for very little. I've used far too much wood building it to make sure it is strong but at least I will never have to worry about it. It's also screwed to the wall and the floor to stop any movement.


----------



## o0dunk0o (24 Oct 2012)

The cheapest way to make a sturdy bench top is to build a torsion box.

I built this one with a piece of 18mm MDF for the top and some 12mm MDF for the honeycomb and bottom





this is my portable bench and even with the abuse it can get on site and being loaded in and out of the van the top has shown no sign of moving.


----------

