# Oak bedroom suite



## mailee (15 Feb 2009)

Ok guys you asked for it. I got all the AWO cut and planed.





Once all this was done I started cutting the mortices in the door stiles.




I used my trusty tennoning jig on the table saw for the tennons. (Don't tell me off again please)  




I cut enough for one door to start with.




Took longer than I expected chipping out the haunches. 




But by the end of the day I had one door ready for a dry fit.




I still have the other door framing to finish yet and a rebate for the panels to cut but think I got on quite well this weekend. Will keep you posted of course as I progress. :wink:


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## Geno (15 Feb 2009)

Ok,

Gona ask a stupid question!!

Why the use of the haunches? I know there is probably a simple answer. Just thought the tenon would look after movement in all directions

Just wondering

Cheers


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## mailee (15 Feb 2009)

Well Geno, the haunch is to stop the rail twisting. Not sure how much it will twist or even if it will but better to be safe. Besides it looks neat too and shows it isn't a cheap doweled joint.


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## Geno (15 Feb 2009)

Thats what I was figuring but I would have thought the tenon would look after most of the potential twist. Well suppose it depends on sizing.

Thanks for the prompt answer!  

Cheerso!


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## BradNaylor (16 Feb 2009)

Looking good Alan.

However,

You're going to have to find construction methods that are a little quicker than this if you are going to succeed in making a decent living doing this kind of work.

A more cost-effective system of door constuction is to machine a deep (20-25mm) groove around all your stiles and rails to accomodate the panel, and then to cut tenons on the end of your rails which slot into the grooves.

A spindle moulder is best for this, but it can be done on a table saw if you take the correct precautions.

Three wardrobe doors can easily be made by this method in half a day, including stock preparation and glue-up.

It might be argued that M&T construction is 'better' and stronger. It probably is. 

The system I've described however, is certainly more than good enough. 

Phil, who shares my workshop, always made his cabinet doors your way. When I came along he couldn't believe how quickly I could knock a set of doors out.

Needless to say, he soon changed!

Cheers
Dan


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## Russ (16 Feb 2009)

Dan Tovey":73zr70uv said:


> Looking good Alan.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Dan's right, it will speed things up. I've always made doors with this method and have never had any problems. Try it, you'd be surprised..


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## OPJ (16 Feb 2009)

Geno":2659172d said:


> Why the use of the haunches? I know there is probably a simple answer. Just thought the tenon would look after movement in all directions.



Try to imagine the mortise _without_ a haunch - what you'll have is basically a bridle joint. If the glue wasn't there (or failed...), the tenons and rails would simply drop out of the bottom of the stiles under the force of gravity.


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## dexter (16 Feb 2009)

A tenon saw would probably have been quicker to cut the haunches and you could cut the wedges for the tenons whilst removing the waste. the wedges would then be the exact thickness as the tenon.


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## mailee (16 Feb 2009)

Well this afternoon after work I got stuck in again and managed to get the other three door frames complete apart from the rebate. 




Well thanks Dan for the heads up on speeding up the work. I shall be using that method in the future mate, sounds a good idea. In the meantime I have set up the table saw for the rebates for the panels and done a test cut for fit. 




I am going to have a break shortly from the wardrobes as I have a counter to make for the local Chinese take away. I have just been to order the laminate for the job and when it arrives next week I shall be starting that. Will of course keep you all posted as to what happens. In the meantime I am working onpreparing myself for self employment and keeping my fingers crossed. :wink:


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## joiner_sim (16 Feb 2009)

Looking good, and I agree that running the groove all around the stiles are rails is the fastest method. You then dont even need to haunch your mortice as the groove become the haunch. Cut all your tennons the same length and then you can just setup the fence on the bandsaw and haunch all the tennons in one go.


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## mailee (17 Feb 2009)

I got the rebates cut in the frames today. Got to admit it would have been a lot quicker to have used your method Dan. Still next time I will. 




I also cut the first panels and fitted them to the first door.




I ended up the evening by completing the first door.




I hope to get the rest of the door panels fitted tomorrow if all goes well. I will use Dan's method for the small door I still have to make. :wink:


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## Ross K (18 Feb 2009)

Dan Tovey":8m3iqqov said:


> Looking good Alan.
> 
> However,
> 
> ...



Dan, that's how I make doors for kitchens and cabinets too. Wealden tools make a deep groove cutter that gets you 22mm slots/mortices on the router table and the spindle moulder takes care of the tenons. I usually use an 8mm groover and 24mm thick stiles/rails. I agree it's a really quick and effective way and more than good enough - we're givng away our trade secrets here!!! On kitchens I usually peg with 9mm oak dowel on the rear of the doors, for an added feature/strength.


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## mailee (22 Feb 2009)

Between being busy with my website and fitting some cupboard doors today, I did manage to get into the workshop again this afternoon.
Thanks Dan I used your method for making the small desk door on the suite:




I also got all of the doors finished ready for assembly:




Now the question is should I put a finish on the veneered MDF panels before assembly or afterwards? Normally I would be using home made panels so would finish them before assembly but not sure about veneered MDF as it won't move will it? :? Everything needs a sanding now and I will do this in the week before assembling the doors and moving on to the next part. :wink:


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## woodbloke (22 Feb 2009)

Finish the panels before assembly into the frames, you won't be able to get into the corners unless you do. If the job is going to be sprayed then you won't need to, but otherwise that's the way I'd go about it - Rob


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## JonnyD (22 Feb 2009)

I dont usually bother finishing veneered panels. I usually glue the panels in as well to give extra rigidity to the door and a finish on the panel will stop the glue from doing its job. 

Jon


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## BradNaylor (23 Feb 2009)

JonnyD":2wg8kmnt said:


> I dont usually bother finishing veneered panels. I usually glue the panels in as well to give extra rigidity to the door and a finish on the panel will stop the glue from doing its job.
> 
> Jon



How times change.

I suggested it was fine to glue in MDF panels on the forum a couple of years ago and was showered with derision by the then usual suspects. 

I was right, though.

And so are you, Jon!


Dan


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## mailee (23 Feb 2009)

Thanks guys, glue them in it is then.


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## matt (23 Feb 2009)

I always finish after making everything up. Can't think why I'd put a finish on before...


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## Steve Maskery (23 Feb 2009)

Well I'd pre-finish AND glue it in.

Mask off 1/2" or so all round the edge of the panel and finish flat, then assemble and glue, then finish the frame. It's easier than trying to sand into corners.

S


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## mailee (29 Mar 2009)

Finally got back to working on the Oak robes and am hard at it in the workshop now. I have finished making the floating shelves above and below the computer desk:




These will be held to the wall by pin brackets let into the rear:




I also got the desktop completed:




I am now starting to lip the edges of the hidden shelves. I took the forums advice and decided to compromise making the lippings 10mm thick:




Next is the cupboard under the computer desk and then onto the wardrobe sides. Will keep you all posted. :wink:


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## mailee (30 Mar 2009)

Just about finished building the computer desk. I need to add the back to it and apply the finish. Here are a couple of pictures of the finished item. 









I found the Blum hinges really good although I did hit a slight problem with them. I found that the hinge jig I have is slightly out for the Blum hinges. It is only a matter of 2mm but I had to make a new jig to fit them in the right spot. Anyway it worked out right in the end.


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## joiner_sim (31 Mar 2009)

Looks great so far! :wink:


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## mailee (31 Mar 2009)

Thanks Sim. I really got stuck in today and added the back to the computer cupboard and then got on with the next piece, the open shelf unit. It's not easy stumbling around in my small shop with large panels but I managed and got all the edgings lipped. I cut the dado's for the shelves and by the end of the evening had a dry fit. 




I found that I need to cut the rebates a little wider for the top and bottom panels, no real problem but will have to wait until tomorrow now. I am using a new cutter in the router with my dado jig and I think there is a discrepency in the diameter of the cutter to the old one? I also had to add a slip of laminate in between the jig and the shelf to make the cut wide enough. It is amazing how much difference there can be in the diameter of cutters from different sources. My old cutter was a Freud and the new one is a De Walt both should be 1/2", oh well we live and learn. :roll: It is a good job I checked the cut first before cutting the panels. Will keep you posted tomorrow again. :wink:


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## BTR (31 Mar 2009)

IT IS LOOKING REALLY GOOD :wink:


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## mailee (1 Apr 2009)

Today I got the shelf unit finished.




I then started work on the closed shelf unit which will have adjustable shelves. After cutting the dados I lipped the edges of both sides.




Once this is dry I can cut the top and bottom panels and the centre shelf which will be glued in place to give the unit strength and stop the centre bowing. I need to use the saw table for this but space is tight in my shop at the moment.




At least each piece I build means there are less panels on the floor so I can clear some space. :lol: Will keep you all posted as usual.


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## mailee (2 Apr 2009)

Today started with a Disaster! After leaving the lipping in glue up last night I started to rout them flush to the panels. I have done a few now so it came as a big surprise to see the cutter going into the veneer revealing the MDF! 




It appears that I hadn't noticed that the veneer had blown away from the edge, I can only assume it was a manufacturers error but all the same it was a devastating blow at this stage. 
You can imagine how I felt. It is a wonder the neighbours didn't hear me turning the air blue! :evil: After I calmed down I pondered over the situation and decided the best course of action was to insert a new piece of veneer into the damaged area. I had some offcuts of thin Oak from the curved edge lipping off the desk so decided to use this as the replacement veneer. With a straight edge I routed out the damged area and lengthened it up to the shelf dado. I then carefully sanded the replacement piece to size and glued it into place with some clamps on. After it had dried I routed it flush with the surface to complete the repair. Even if I say so myself it didn't look bad and had avoided oredering another AWO panel. 





Happy that I had surmounted this challenge I then drilled the holes for the adjustable shelves and got the whole unit in glue up. 





Next is the plinth that it will sit on. Will keep you posted as usual. :wink:


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## MickCheese (2 Apr 2009)

I don't think I would have noticed the repair in the photo had you not pointed it out.

Just don't point it out to anyone who has to look at it in their room.

Looking good.

Mick


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## mailee (3 Apr 2009)

I got on much better today after my mishap with the veneer. I have just about finished the cupboard shelf unit and have just the removeable shelves to make. I got the door fitted to test it for squareness.




I used four of the Blum hinges as advised by forum members. Good job I did as they weigh a ton! 




I drilled holes into the inside of the cabinet so I can place chrome pegs in to support the shelves.




I have made a start on the wardrobe sides and the top and bottom but these will have to be assembled on site and so screwed together with a coat of glue. Will keep you all posted as usual. :wink:


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## Chems (3 Apr 2009)

Looks fantastic Maliee!


That little bit of veneering work, flushing it down with the router is a stroke of brilliance. I did something similar the other week and flushed it down with the plane but it was careful work to make sure I didn't start gouging out the surrounding material, your way is much more ingenious!


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## mailee (5 Apr 2009)

Had a good day in the shop today. I started work on the wardrobe section and managed to set it up at one end of the workshop. All of this must be screwed together so I can take it apart for moving it. 




I got two of the doors hung and trimmed to size. Please take no notice of the state of the workshop....I will clean it....later.
I found that I needed a spacing piece between the corner unit to allow the door to swing back far enough.




I have just left the corner spacer in glue up for the night and can then hinge the final door.




So far everything seems to be going well, I wonder if it will fit as well once it is in the bedroom. I will make sure I have some scribing pieces with me for that, just in case. Will keep you posted as and when as usual. :wink:


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## mailee (6 Apr 2009)

I got everything in a trial run today after hanging the last door. I wanted to make sure everything lines up before I take it apart to finish it. 




I am happy with the fit of everything and now I can make the cornice for the top and finish off the doors now they are trimmed to size. Will keep you posted as usual. :wink:


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## mailee (7 Apr 2009)

No pics today but I did realise I had forgotten all about the keyboard slide out tray and built that. I have just finished sanding down the doors and will start on the sanding of the main units tomorrow. I still have the cornice to make and will start that once the trial run is taken down again. Will keep you posted as usual. :wink:


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## mailee (17 Apr 2009)

Tomorrow is the big day when I will be fitting it! I took most of the parts down today in preparation for it which took two trips in the Volvo. All I have to transport tomorrow are the tools and fittings. So far the lady customer likes the finish and colour so I may be on to a winner. Fingers crossed and pics to follow of course. :wink:


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## mailee (18 Apr 2009)

I managed to get the bedroom suite fitted today although it took longer than I had expected as nothing was square as you might guess. Here are a few pics of it. 

















Unfortunately the cable outlet for the desk hadn't arrived yet and I ran out of time to fit the finishing pieces to the bottom of the desk but will return to fit these once I have the cable outlet point. 
Glad to say the customer was very happy with the set.


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## MikeG. (18 Apr 2009)

Now that does look nice Mailee! Well done that man!!

Did you tell your customer that part of the payment is that they must recommend you to at least three other people? 

I haven't followed the thread.......is this veneered mdf with lippings, or solid lumps of oak?

Mike


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## LarryS. (18 Apr 2009)

Mailee,

that does look excellent, I've never tried the veneered MDF but this project has inspired me to have a go


paul


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## Rich (18 Apr 2009)

Very nice Mailee, I'd say you've been in the wrong job situatuion for years, good luck mate, although with you're skills, luck won't come into it, word of mouth will be your employer by the looks of it.

Rich.


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## Chems (18 Apr 2009)

Its only spoiled by the manky floor in that room!


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## mailee (18 Apr 2009)

It is made from veneered MDF and solid wood lippings Mike. 
Well James it was that floor that gave me so much trouble. It took an age to level up all the plinth before I could start on fitting the cabinets on top. I think in future I should use the adjustable feet with a clip on plinth, it would have made life much easier. Nothing in the room was square from the floor to the walls everything was out of wack. I even had to scribe in the computer desktop as there was a bulge in the middle. Not to mention having to scribe both ends of the run of cabinets. Still got there in the end and ths customer was pleased as she is a fussy bu**er, or so I had been told. :wink:


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## Chems (19 Apr 2009)

Sounds like a nightmare, but bet many places aren't very square so at least your getting practice!

Do you have any bigger pictures?


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## Mr Mike (19 Apr 2009)

That looks great Mailee....

Was there much scribing of the floating shelves to the walls ? Were you fixing the concealed brackets to plasterboard or masonry ? What sort of leg levellers were you using ? I tend to make a 3x2 plinth and use adjustable rubber feet levellers that screw into hammer-in pronged M10 nuts.....

Don't know about you but I prefer the making process in the workshop to the fitting process, where it seems you have to haul half your workshop with you to carry out the fit......

....but the end result always makes it worthwhile......and I'd be lie-ing if I didn't say the resultant cheque was a sweetener too.....having said that, the kudos earnt with the customer and word of mouth recommendations are worth just as much too. I bet they were pleased....

Do you have a dedicated finishing area in your workshop too ?


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## mailee (19 Apr 2009)

I do have bigger pictures of it Chems but they are on my computer and not uploaded. 
Well Mike I didn't use any adjusters for the base, duh! They would have saved me a lot of time for sure. I just used packing pieces of which I carry a lot. Suprisingly the floating shelves were the only thing I didn't have to scribe! I suppose it was as they were a lot smaller and must have found a flat bit of wall. :lol: The wall they are mounted on is a stud partition wall and the hidden brackets were screwed in with plasterboard fixings. These are not going to take a lot of weight as they are just for photos and the like. 
Yes like you I enjoy the making far more than the fitting but as you say it is all worth it in the end to see the customers face and hear the praise. As long as they pass the word around I am happy with that.  
My workshop isn't big enough for a dedicated finishing area hence the reason I used acrylic varnish for the finish. I have been offered access to a spray booth for a small fee if I do need one, I may take him up on this one in the future.


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## mailee (23 Apr 2009)

Here are a few pics of the suite now the carpets have been fitted and the cable outlet installed along with the desk trims. 













When I left tonight she was showing one of her friends it.....good.


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## Joints (23 Apr 2009)

as always i am cash orientated (as i dont have any at the mo!) but i am currently making a similar project, a large shelving unit out of oak, and was wondering how much you charged your client and/or your deposit charge?

Dont mean to be cheeky but its a great help to me as i am currently learning the trade and how fairly to charge a customer?

regards on your great work, george


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## BradNaylor (24 Apr 2009)

Very nice, Alan.

My only suggestion for your next job of this kind would be to enclose the outer doors with end panels coming flush with the fronts of the doors.

It gives the illusion of being an 'in-frame' constuction at very little extra cost. Higher perceived value means you can charge more...

:wink: 

Cheers
Brad


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## mailee (24 Apr 2009)

Hmm good idea Brad thanks. I didn't want to risk that on this job as the woman is a stickler for the gaps around the doors. (she informed me of that before I even drew up the plans) :roll: Will give it a try on the next set I build though. :wink: There are some more in the pipeline too, around July. :wink:


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## mailee (25 Apr 2009)

Well George let's just say it was a little over £2000 but this was started before I went self employed and as such was cheaper than I would now charge. I normally take between a 25 - 50% deposit on all of my work. If you charge a large deposit there is no way they would back out of a deal. It also makes sense as it covers all of the materials up front which is important to me just starting a small business with no real cash flow. HTH. :wink:


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## Joints (25 Apr 2009)

I'll second that.

The job I am currently doing was quoted end price of around £2000-2500 and I took £1000 upfront. I am starting up on my own too, and paying for rents, tools, timer and any downtime is always more than you expect eh!

Thanks for the answers and the photo's, keep on working!

George


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## outcycling (17 Jul 2009)

Hey Mailee, 

lovely looking oak fitted units. Been trolling through all the projects learning a lot. Just about to embark on a huge number of projects as extending/renovating a old house I bought and first job, converting a old triple garage into my dream workshop, as given up the day job to use the next year or so to skill up. 

Have a few questions for you on the cabinets if I may ? 

1) For the shelving unit in the far right hand corner of the room. Was that wall plumb ? If not then did you just leave a gap or add an extra strip of wood running the full height which you scribed to the wall ? 

2) Scribing. You had to scribe that desk and units to the wall ? Never had to do scribing before. I know the theory of standing the unit upright next to the wall and running a set of dividers down the wall to draw the profile on the unit and cut that section off. Is that how you did it ? Did you build the units and desk with extra width for this purpose ? It looks like the shelves in the units go right flush to the back ? 

Great job and many thanks for posting it. There have been a number of great projects on here I've found and this is one of them. Nice work.


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