# Pin or Plain end blades ?



## Anthraquinone (2 Jan 2017)

Hi

I am new to this scroll saw lark as I normally do wood turning. As such I have a question and possible some others later. At present I want to make some toys for my grandson. Dinosaurs, dragons, cars etc etc,

The scroll saw I have can take both types of blades and I have found that the pin end blades are much easier to change. I can see the advantage of plain ended blades if you want to enter the work through a small hole for internal cuts but other than that is one type generally better that the other or is it a personal choice?

Also there are many different types of blades available normal, reverse tooth , skip tooth etc etc. Is there one type that is generally better or is it a case of trial and error (not too much of that I hope) to see which works for me. I do not want to end up with a large selection of blades I have no use for.

AQ


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## Claymore (2 Jan 2017)

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## Buffalo Chas (2 Jan 2017)

Hi AQ.
I am also relatively new to scrollsawing so I am no expert. Like Brian, I also use only Pegas blades, nos 3 & 5. I cut from 3mm plywood to 50mm mahogany with no problems. Usually it is reverse tooth blades that I use because they give a smoother cut on the underside with no splintering. I think as a general rule pinned blades are much thicker than plain end blades and therefore are much more difficult to use when trying to cut tight corners. As I said I'm no expert but hopefully this helps a little.

Happy scrolling

Charley


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## Dominik Pierog (2 Jan 2017)

Pin blades had limitations and bad work performance.
Pinless has no limitations and great performance.
And difference in price does not exist.

Pin blades are for cheap china scroll saw. When manufactuer can't afford to mount a little cube of metal for pinles blades. Only mont few cents cheeper wave spangle.




Buffalo Chas":2jpg42ie said:


> Hi AQ.
> I think as a general rule pinned blades are much thicker than plain end blades and therefore are much more difficult to use when trying to cut tight corners.



I have struggle to cut straight line on branded proxxon pin blades. First bought of newbie with proxxon scroll saw.
I don't know what purpose have those blades. That experience was horrifying and devastating for newbie in 2009. Before first scroll saw I watch a lot Steve Goods movies on YT.
And I thing this is pretty easy....

In reality is pretty easy when you don't fight with you blades


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## scrimper (3 Jan 2017)

To be honest unless you have no choice I don't really see any advantage in using pinned blades, you can buy normal (pinless) blades from 00 (very fine) size up to a No 11 (very heavy) in various types at very reasonable prices and they are widely available. 

As far as types of blade go generally there are four types of blade worth considering as follows

1] Spiral blades. These cut in any direction, they are basically a normal blade that has been twisted so that teeth point in all directions. My advice is steer well clear of these for general fretwork especially as a beginner. Using these will likely put you of using a scroll saw for ever! They are IMHO the devils work! 

2] Standard blades. These are just the standard traditional blade that have been in common use for over 100years. These are dirt cheap to buy and are available in all sizes. you can do most things with these but they do leave a small kerf or cut out at the back of the work which means more sanding. Sizes 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10 and 11. 

3] Reverse tooth blades. these are the same as the standard blades but the bottom few teeth [about 3] point upwards rather than down which means that providing your work table is not too thick on the saw these teeth cut the bottom of the work and in most cases leave an almost kerf free finish with little sanding required. *IMHO these are the best blades to use* although they are generally not available in as many sizes as the standard blades. sizes 5, 7 and 9 are readily available [which unless doing really fine work is all you need].

4] Metal cutting blades. Well as it says for cutting metal, they have very fine teeth. I keep a few for occasional use only.

To sum up, in my opinion the best choice is reverse tooth blades for most use in sizes 5, 7 and 9 but keep a selection of the standard blades in the fine sizes for very delicate work such as 0, 1 and 2.

I generally buy my blades from Hobbies http://www.alwayshobbies.com/tools/hand ... ccessories and always opt for the Niqua brand. I have used these for well over 25 years and find them reliable and excellent value for money. I did try some Flying Dutchman blades which were very troublesome.

[I still have some original Hobbies British made Fretsaw blades that are almost 100 years old (My late Grandfather used to sell Hobbies goods) these blades show no rust and still cut as good as any modern blade.]

*Added* Forgot to mention, Hegner do a good range of Reverse tooth blades but you have to buy larger quantities. http://www.hegner.co.uk/products/spares ... lades.html


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## Anthraquinone (3 Jan 2017)

Thank you for all the advice I will get a few of the types recomended above and try them. It seems that pinned blades are not he way to go.

AQ


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