# Japanese stool. Finished with final work in progress shots



## Adam (12 Sep 2005)

Well, the beekeeping season is over - so made a start on my next project!

I started with a lump of ash that's been hanging around for ages. Its slighly bowed, but had one straightish edge - here I am squaring off the two ends. I never used to bother with all the safety stuff, but find it much more comfortable wearing the glasses, dust mask and ear protectors. I always found I get itchy eyes from the dust - and glasses seeem to help.







Next up, ripping it to size. You can clearly see a few splits here.






Next up, I decided on a profile. Somewhat arbitarily, I choose 18mm as the curveture at each end. I then bent a steel rule between these points, and drew a line. Next, every 10mm, I noted the distance.






With the crown guard removed, I took trenching cuts every 10mm. I know, you could just as easily do this with a router. I did it on the tablesaw. Its easy to set up the fence on the sliding table, and take a cut, rotate the wood, and cut the other side so you get a balanced profile.






Chiselling out the main profile. Heebeejeebs my hair is dissappearing.






I subsequently found it was much better doing it this way round...






Voila. A very approximately profiled seat.






Out with the spokeshaves next. You can just see a couple of screws lashed into the workbench - holding it secure.






A few blisters later, its complete - its quite satisfying using a spokeshave. You can still see the splits on the RHS.






I've decided to rout out the splits. Here I am wishing I'd done it before I profiled the curve. I've even tidied the workbench  






I'm going to fill those cracks with walnut. Although each crack is full width -I'm just going to worry about the top.






I trimmed up the walnut using a japanese saw, and a LA plane, then glued and clamped in position.







I left this for about 3 hours, removed the clamps, used to spokeshaves to get the walnut smooth to the rest of it, then scraped, then sanded, then got the first coat of oil on. Sadly, those pictures are still on the camera!

Adam


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## radicalwood (12 Sep 2005)

Hi Adam,

Looks like its going to be nice, can't wait to see the finished article. 3 or 4 legs. liked the method for cutting the seat, may have a go at that when I get a bit more adventuress

All the best

Neil


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## Philly (12 Sep 2005)

Looks good Adam!
I'll second the legs question,
Cheers
Philly


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## tim (12 Sep 2005)

> Well, the beekeeping season is over -



Why? What have you done them? Let them go?

Re legs - I'm assuming it could be also be two legs ie slabs.

Cheers

Tim


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## Adam (12 Sep 2005)

tim":21iatuz9 said:


> > Well, the beekeeping season is over -
> 
> 
> Why? What have you done them? Let them go?



Winter for bees starts in August/Sep - the nectar on flowers has finished. Their is no (little) work for beekeepers to do now. They won't swarm, their is no honey to collect, its best ot leave them. It restarts in March/April.



tim":21iatuz9 said:


> Re legs - I'm assuming it could be also be two legs ie slabs.
> Cheers Tim



Exactly. See my 'first time ever using Sketchup attempt. I've honestly never used it before. I don't know what all the buttons do, but it's at least partially intuitive.










I have some ambition to have a series of bracing inbetween the legs, forming a sort of helix - but it'll require a series of compound angles for each rail. I think it'd look quite cool through!

Adam


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## Philly (12 Sep 2005)

Adam
Have a look at the little meditation stool in DC's book (sorry-can't remember which one!) It looks similar to that and has an interesting method of attaching the legs.
Hope this helps
Philly


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## Chris Knight (12 Sep 2005)

Adam,

Looks like a fun project. It will be interesting to see what you decide on for your "helix".


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## Waka (12 Sep 2005)

Adam

Very impressive, hoe long did it take you to profile the top?


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## Pete W (12 Sep 2005)

Good stuff, Adam. I never would have thought of that way of profiling the seat.


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## thomaskennedy (12 Sep 2005)

Nice one Adam, I'd never thought of doing a seat in that way either 8) 

Bet it'll look great when it's done  

Ta, Tom


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## Matt1245 (12 Sep 2005)

Great stuff Adam, like to see pics of work in progress, shows me what i should be doing :lol: 

Matt.


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## Adam (13 Sep 2005)

OK, a bit more progress.

As mentioned, I've used a spokeshave and a scraper to get the smooth curves. A quick runover with the sander.






Next up, time to get a bit of oil on it. I'm using Danish Oil. (as always :roll: ).






1st coat dry.






Time to start on the legs. Like the top, I'm using offcuts, so no guarentee of being knot/split free either. My little battery powered chop saw sailed through - I did have to spin the wood over half way and cut from the other side.






Due to the thickness of the planks, the saw couldn't cut full width - so I finished it off with a saw. 






I'm using the planer to give me a face edge for gluing. Although no pictures, I also thicknessed all this timber, and the rails, ready for later in the project.






All ready to go! Glue up time!






I've sandwiched a piece of walnut between each plank.


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## Gill (13 Sep 2005)

Hi Adam

I'm curious - why did you choose walnut dutchmen instead of ash? Is this something to do with Japanese design and matching the walnut on the legs?

Gill


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## Adam (13 Sep 2005)

Gill":1yoyxpdf said:


> Hi Adam
> I'm curious - why did you choose walnut dutchmen instead of ash? Is this something to do with Japanese design and matching the walnut on the legs?
> Gill



Hmm, I don't know what a 'dutchmen' is, but presume you mean the stripes of walnut in the top to cover the splits? No particular reason, mostly though if I did them in ash, it'll look like it was replacing a blemish, wheras in walnut it provides some contrast. It was only due to the walnut in top, that made me include a stripe in the legs.

I know nothing about Japanese design - it just looked a little like that due to the curved top and the angles legs. So I honestly don't know if contrasting timber is the norm there or not.

Sorry I'm not much help. As always, I'm making this design up as I go along, so it's morphed several times already.

Adam

Edit: I've been and looked this up so for anyone who also hasn't heard that term before - I gleaned this off the net...."Dutchman Repair

When rot consumes so much wood that an epoxy repair is impractical, but replacing the entire piece would be too costly and laborious, try replacing just the decayed area with a wood patch, or dutchman. Although the only tools required are a chisel and a handsaw, this method takes the most skill and demands the best materials: wood that's knot-free and rot-resistant, and glues that are strong and waterproof."

You learn something every day here.


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## Newbie_Neil (13 Sep 2005)

Hi Adam

It's looking really good.

I'm looking forward to the next instalment.

Cheers
Neil


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## cambournepete (13 Sep 2005)

Adam":21rw4sur said:


> ...the stripes of walnut in the top to cover the splits...? ...if I did them in ash, it'll look like it was replacing a blemish, wheras in walnut it provides some contrast...



I like it so far, but I think I might have put similar walnut strips in the other side to make the top symmetrical, but that's just me...


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## Gill (13 Sep 2005)

Adam":1y5sbltr said:


> ... if I did them in ash, it'll look like it was replacing a blemish, wheras in walnut it provides some contrast.



I understand  . I would have chosen ash dutchmen myself but I can see why you've gone for walnut. Like Pete, I think a bit of walnut detail on the other side of the seat would give it more balance. Nevertheless, it's going to be an unusual and striking piece of furniture. In time, I think I could come to love it.

Gill


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## Mdotflorida (13 Sep 2005)

Nice one Adam. 

I actually like the contrast and I think the design of just having the contrast on one side of the seat is going to work well.

I look forward to seeing the finished project.

Jeff


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## Pete W (13 Sep 2005)

cambournepete":3iv25m7f said:


> I might have put similar walnut strips in the other side to make the top symmetrical, but that's just me...



Not just you at all, Pete. The human urge to design with symmetry is almost overwhelming, I think. Which is why a bit of asymmetry looks great sometimes. I think this is one of those times .

Adam: just curious, but are you leaving all those sharp edges and corners on the seat? :shock: :lol:


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## Travis Byrne (13 Sep 2005)

Hello Adam

This looks to be a truly unique piece of furniture. Congradulations.
  
Travis


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## Adam (14 Sep 2005)

Pete W":2zrn27mc said:


> Adam: just curious, but are you leaving all those sharp edges and corners on the seat? :shock: :lol:



No, I plan to round them off.



Gill":2zrn27mc said:


> Like Pete, I think a bit of walnut detail on the other side of the seat would give it more balance.



Err, cough, due to a little breakout with the morticer, I think I may have just required myself to have a bit more walnut on the top. I may go for circles though, just to make it look even more odd. :wink: 

Adam

PS: Note to self... When using a morticer on a curved unit, remember their is no support under the chisel and it'll break out and create large splits in the upper surface.  . Ahh well, that'll teach me not to think about what I'm doing properly.


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## Gill (14 Sep 2005)

Adam":1uvu623w said:


> Err, cough, due to a little breakout with the morticer, I think I may have just required myself to have a bit more walnut on the top. I may go for circles though, just to make it look even more odd. :wink:



:lol: :lol: :lol: 

Well done, Adam! I'm sure your stool will be all the better for it.

Gill


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## Adam (15 Sep 2005)

Well, back to it!

First up trim off the excess 







Then get the smoother working..






Trimming some of the excess away






A first view of what it might look like..






Just look at the dust on that saw - shocking. 






Next up trimming the shoulders.... (PS recognise the saw ALF?)






Cutting a curve using the crappy bandsaw.






Both sides complete.






Back out with the spokeshaves.






Chiselling up the edges.






Next up morticing the seat.






First cuts..






pipper - I've gone right through. Oh well :roll: 






Time to give up for the day!

Adam


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## Gill (15 Sep 2005)

Never mind, Adam - it's still coming on a treat. And I'm confident you must have some more mahogany lurking around somewhere to 'enhance' the piece   .

Gill


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## Mcluma (15 Sep 2005)

change the design to trough mortises :wink: with some feature wedges


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## Adam (16 Sep 2005)

Onwards...

Cleaning out the mortices....






And trimming the tenons to size.






And putting a chamfer on the tenon.






First check it goes together! Yippee!






And from the side!






I've decided against the helix cross braces - its just too difficult on this as it requires so many compound angles.

Instead I've decided to go with horizontal braces.

Now I hate jigs,:twisted: as they take up loads of time, effort and materials, and the time spent making them could be spent building a project, or learning to do the task by hand. :? Anyway, on this occasion, I've decided to give in and build an angle bracket.  I lashed two pieces of board together with a couple of hinges, and bar to set the angle. Total time, 5 mins. Thats just about acceptable.  











Checking I've got the correct angle






Back on the morticer.






All of 1 side cut






Having cut the entire side, I noticed I'd got it back to front, so the angle I'd cut at the bottom, to make sure it sits level, is the wrong way round. Solution is either to make it slightly lower, or to add some more walnut to the base of the "legs", - which I think could look quite nice.

Adam


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## simuk (16 Sep 2005)

Hello Adam, 

Looks great! 
Wouldnt mind having a go at that project myself. And thanks for sharing the pictures of how your progressing.

simon


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## tim (16 Sep 2005)

Well done Adam - your honesty is inspiring! It will look great.

Cheers

Tim


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## Adam (16 Sep 2005)

tim":zbq3aakb said:


> Well done Adam - your honesty is inspiring! Cheers Tim



Someone on here, I'm not sure who, said something along the lines of the difference between a beginner and a pro is how they deal with their mistakes. I can kind of understand that, (although someone doing it professionally will have A) made the mistake once before and won't do it again, and B) will plan their work flow.) but I've definately become more confident at what to do after making a mistake. I currently have the following view on mistakes.....  

Mistakes are inevitable for me, as I don't plan my workflow, don't work to a design, and am still inexperienced. However, most people don't notice them anyway, the fun is in the making an item yourself and it's not often you can't do something to partially remedy the situation. So I don't worry about it anymore. Once I've made a mistake though, I don't ever try to remedy it until the following day, when I've had chance to think it through.

Adam


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## Anonymous (16 Sep 2005)

Really coming together nicely Adam. The small mistake will soon be a feature :wink:


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## Adam (16 Sep 2005)

Tony":1gnc3yfj said:


> Really coming together nicely Adam. The small mistake will soon be a feature :wink:



Hmm, some comforting reassurance. I have to look on the bright side otherwise I'll realise I'm completely incompetant at executing the construction of even the most simple item :roll:   

Adam :?


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## llangatwgnedd (16 Sep 2005)

Adam .
I think your a brave person by publishing your work on the internet without editing or taking a retake etc.

Me? would have stopped at this stage :arrow: 


http://www.pbase.com/asleitch/image/49280571.jpg

Because I am a great believer in in simple design and nothing OTT.

Cheers SDP


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## les chicken (16 Sep 2005)

Adam
When I was a mere mechanical engineering apprentice serving my time 5 years plus 6 in college. I always remember my spell in the toolroom making moulds out of meanite ( a form of cast iron ) the instructor old Sid Chambers was in his seventies. His advice was always that a good tradesman is able to correct a mistake so that it does not exist or it looks as if it should be there. I think that was sound advice and after 50 years I still remember it. Nice piece of work.
Les


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## Alf (17 Sep 2005)

Tsk. It's not a mistake, it's a *Design Opportunity*. :roll: 

And yes, I do recognise the saw. Hope it's okay. Sorry for not commenting before, but I was hoping I'd be seeing it unroll at speed right before my eyes courtesy of broadband - alas, that's deferred until next week now.  Actually I don't think I'll say anything even now. I'll wait to see how it turns out - bit of a moving target at the moment.  

Cheers, Alf


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## Howjoe (27 Sep 2005)

Hi Adam,

Any more progress on this? Or are you too busy with your shiny red tractor! :wink: 

Cheers

Howard


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## Adam (28 Sep 2005)

Some, but not enough to justify taking some photos. I've fixed the top, turned a couple of washers to fit the damage of the mmorticer breaking through glued and planed them, trimmed the tenons slightly as they were binding. 

Adam


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## Mcluma (28 Sep 2005)

He Adam is that a Massa Ferguson tractor your sitting on :?:


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## Adam (28 Sep 2005)

Mcluma":1f5s36nb said:


> He Adam is that a Massa Ferguson tractor your sitting on :?:



Indeed. A 35X, its my uncles.






Adam


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## Adam (3 Nov 2005)

Right skip forward a few evenings (I've started another project) so this got on the back burner.

Anyway, here's a couple of the finished item.











Its had a few coats of oil - all it needs now is some beeswax polish and it can be brought back in the house.

Adam


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## Noel (3 Nov 2005)

That's looking mighty good Adam. Especially the wedged tennons, very nice.

Noel


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## ProShop (3 Nov 2005)

I like that a lot Adam, to me it is very oriental looking, which I like.


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## llangatwgnedd (4 Nov 2005)

Brill Adam ,
I like the Tenons and the contrast :wink:


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## Waka (4 Nov 2005)

Adam

What a wonderful piece of craftmanship, really like the style.


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## Philly (4 Nov 2005)

Nice work, Adam!
Been wondering when it would appear :wink: 
Philly


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## Alf (4 Nov 2005)

Wow. I confess I was a bit worried how it'd end up looking at one stage, but that's very cool. Certainly different. =D> 

Cheers, Alf


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## Chris Knight (4 Nov 2005)

Adam,
That looks brilliant - really special!


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## wizer (4 Nov 2005)

amazing Adam, really amazing!

I love it!


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## tim (4 Nov 2005)

That looks great - well done. Like Alf, I had some concerns at the early stages but you've done a fab job.

Is it comfy to sit on?

Cheers

Tim


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## Neil (4 Nov 2005)

Nice work, Adam - I like the wedged tenons too 8)

Cheers,
Neil


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## Adam (4 Nov 2005)

Neil":37x4sr6b said:


> Nice work, Adam - I like the wedged tenons too 8)
> 
> Cheers,
> Neil



Neil, Noel, no wonder we get them confused - they write the same messages. :roll: 

Thanks guys (+ gals) - I meant to bring the rest of the progress shots to work to upload - but forgot. 

Adam


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## Gill (4 Nov 2005)

Hi Adam

Congratulations - you've made it work beautifully!

Gill


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## dedee (4 Nov 2005)

Adam, that's amazing. I realy like the way that the faux pas have been turned into design elements and those wedged tenons look cool.

Andy


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## Mdotflorida (4 Nov 2005)

Adam

I love the wedged tenons and the overall piece.

You have a good eye for design.

Jeff


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## Adam (7 Nov 2005)

Here's those work in progress shots I forgot to post  

I cleaned up the edges using a #7 jointer. They'd been knocked around quite a bit.







And the same for the ends. I used a LA jack for that.






WIth everything looking a bit more assembled, I used some test sticks to measure the width between of the rails. I could have measured this, but this was more accurate (I think!).






I then transferred the measurments onto the rails






I cut a couple of wedges, and then mounted the whole batch in the woodrat. Its perfect for these unusual cuts. Especially doing the whole batch in one go.






I'm checking for any mistakes - and the results are pretty good.






Cutting the other face of the mortice requires it to have a matching angle. I reckon a tenon saw and chisel is the best option. I'm using a marking guage to scribe my lines.






Making the cuts...






Next stage is a dry assembly - just to check everything






I want to round of the edges slightly so am using a router with a round over bit.






And the same thing for the rails. I'm using router matting which holds everything securely.






A bit of sanding before assembly makes everything much easier, and stops the glue drips sticking to the wood.






Final hand sanding






Everything taped up with masking tape.






Anyone else have this trouble?






Everything gets a coat of danish oil






Need to make the wedges next. Cut approximately on the bandsaw






You can see how rough they are:






Then smoothed on a sander ready for use






Regular PVA










Hammering the wedges into position - you can feel them "bite" and thats when I stop knocking them in!






Clamps on






Trimming then planing the ends.






More coats of oil.






Making the feet






Drilling the holes. I've left some slack to cope with the expansion of the wood against the long grain of the feet






End grain shavings with a spokeshave - lovely!






Trimming them up a bit...






Smoothing them relative to the ash sides.






Touch more sanding...






And fini!


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## DaveL (7 Nov 2005)

Adam, 

Thanks for taking the time to shoot all of these pictures, I love seeing how things come together. 
You have made a very nice stool.
Do you mark your work? I think you should, your grand children can then proudly show their grand children the family pieces, complete with your mark. I bought a branding iron with my initials on and try to remember to mark the back/bottom of things, before putting the finish on.


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## Chris Knight (7 Nov 2005)

Adam,
What a great series of shots! Super informative. A nice demonstration too of the Rat's capabilities.


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## dedee (7 Nov 2005)

Excellant WIP pics Adam - you don't use glue sparingly do you? :lol: And as for the mole grips you can be glad that was not a child proof top.

Andy


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## gidon (7 Nov 2005)

Proper job Adam! Nice design and nicely executed. Like all the WIP shots too.
Cheers
Gidon


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## Adam (7 Nov 2005)

DaveL":3fcjenfe said:


> Do you mark your work? I think you should, your grand children can then proudly show their grand children the family pieces, complete with your mark.



Yes, for the first time. Normally I use a marker pen  






Adam


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## DaveL (7 Nov 2005)

Adam,

Nice one, much better than a marker pen.


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## wizer (7 Nov 2005)

where did you have that made adam? and how big is it?


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## Alf (7 Nov 2005)

Nice WIP pics, Adam. Thanks. And yes, I frequently have to take all sorts of devices to Rustins containers. I may have whinged about it before. :evil: Love the bee on the maker's mark; very appropriate. Although if you'd used a beeswax finish that would have been even better... :wink: :lol: 

Cheers, Alf


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## Adam (7 Nov 2005)

Alf":c35iajsp said:


> Nice WIP pics, Adam. Thanks. And yes, I frequently have to take all sorts of devices to Rustins containers. I may have whinged about it before. :evil: Love the bee on the maker's mark; very appropriate.
> Cheers, Alf



The plates came from here http://makers-marks.co.uk/

Really nice chap to deal with. He won't take any payment until you've actually recieved them! Wonderful trust. I payed by return of post. They advertise in the back of F&CM. Several people here have used them.



Alf":c35iajsp said:


> Although if you'd used a beeswax finish that would have been even better... :wink: :lol:



One better, I even made my own polish this time, from beeswax I harvested throughout the year. Want to try out a tub? I'll do you a trade. 

Adam


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## Alf (7 Nov 2005)

Adam":3aaxsrce said:


> One better, I even made my own polish this time, from beeswax I harvested throughout the year. Want to try out a tub? I'll do you a trade.


Oh really? If there's something you have in mind, feel free to step into my inbox at any time.  

Cheers, Alf


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## stewart (7 Nov 2005)

Adam
The stool looks fantastic. Inspiration to me to get to a project rather than 'improving' my workshop - it was an outside light this weekend!
Cheers
Stewart


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## tim (7 Nov 2005)

Adam

Thanks for posting the WIP pics. Good design on your mark as well. I'll second your comments about Vidi. Really good service and nice to deal with someone so trusting. BTW, you know that he makes plates without pin holes for inlaying?

Looking for something to trade you for some beeswax - but we've had a rubbish apple harvest and I gave the last of our chutney away this weekend. I could trade you some cold hard cash if that works?

Cheers

Tim


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## SimonA (8 Nov 2005)

I'll vouch for Vidi also...been getting my marks from there for about two years now and he's a really nice guy to deal with, which makes a change in this day and age!

SimonA


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## devonwoody (16 Nov 2005)

Thanks for the thread Adam. I picked up some useful tips along the way, one is to hold the timber being sanded with some grippers, that certainly saves the epidermis.


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## Matt1245 (18 Nov 2005)

Great stool and very informative topic.

Think i might try something similar myself now, got an offcut of iroko (i think) which would be ideal for that, now if only i could work out how to cet the mortices on an angle by hand :lol: 

Matt.


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## Alf (18 Nov 2005)

Matt1245":1ks900h2 said:


> ...now if only i could work out how to cet the mortices on an angle by hand :lol:


Clamp a suitably angled block to guide the chisel. Pretty amazing just how accurate you can get doing that.

Cheers, Alf


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