# Finishing beech table top - confused!



## Jacquiemalta (5 Jan 2013)

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for advice please as I have read so much about this issue that I've confused myself!

I have an unfinished 1.5" thick beech table top and TV unit I need to finish. I am going to stain it slightly darker which is the only part of the process I have no concerns about! My problem is that in an ideal world I want a waxed finish but of course with the world not being ideal, I know that wax alone is not hardwearing enough for a table top. I have been reading about wipe on poly but don't know why this method would be chosen over simply using full strength poly, which isn't really the look I want anyway. Plus, I want a soft sheen and it seems that wipe on poly needs to be done with gloss varnish as satin/matt gives a cloudy look. My thoughts at this stage are to do several coats of wipe on poly followed by a wax top coat but don't know if I can follow the poly coats with wax anyway although it seems people have done this and if I do, will it even give me the waxed effect I want.

My other problem is that I live in Malta and can't get many of the products you can get in the UK or the US which I read about on the net. For example, you can't buy crackle glaze here so I created the same effect on an old wooden trunk by using PVA glue between the paint coats! Worked out really well actually and a lot cheaper 

So, to sum up, my question is:
How do I get a hardwearing soft sheen/waxed type finish without clouding the grain? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your time.


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## cornucopia (5 Jan 2013)

I don’t know if you can get woodoc 10 in Malta but from what you describe it would be perfect for you

it’s a very hard wearing polywax sealer- the finish is a very tactile satin velvet- it also has a maintenance wax if needed.

read more here


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## Jacquiemalta (5 Jan 2013)

Thanks a lot for that, it does indeed seem to be exactly what I'm looking for. I must admit I'd be very surprised if I could get it here but I'm going to ring round to see.


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## andersonec (5 Jan 2013)

Have a look for Microcrystaline wax, it may be of some use.

Failing that have a look at Osmo top oil, it's a wax and oil mixture and used for kitchen worktops.


Andy


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## yetloh (13 Jan 2013)

I have never used wipe on poly as a commercial product, but the wipe-on technique is easily applicable to ordinary oil based polyurethane and is capable of producing a very nice silky surface with pretty much any level of sheen you want. Use a satin poly, decant some after stirring thoroughly and dilute woth 40% white spirit. You will need lots of very thin wiped on coats (at least 6 - 8) but it dries quite quickly. Denib as necessary. For the final coat, apply with 400 grit wet and dry paper, rubbing the resulatant slurry into the grain, then wipe off with a lint free cloth. If the level of sheen is not to your liking, you can adjust it with 0000 wire wool for less sheen or Liberon burnishing cream for more. The resulting finish is hard wearing and very tactile, not at all like the popular idea of poly finish. It sounds quite complicated but is in fact very straightforward with none of the run or sag problems associated with brush application. It takes a little time but is worth the effort.

Jim


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## Harbo (14 Jan 2013)

I used to use Sam Maloof's mixture but have found that thinned down poly works just as well and much cheaper.

Rod


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## Jacquiemalta (14 Jan 2013)

I've been testing wipe on poly on spare wood and am surprised at how natural it looks and not at all plasticy. I also waxed over it and the end result has the soft waxed look I wanted but with the protection of the poly underneath. I used matt varnish 50/50 with white spirits but have now bought some gloss to avoid the muddying of the grain although to be honest, I didn't really notice any. Maybe it would be more obvious on a larger area though so I'll go with the gloss anyway.

After doing the crackle glaze projects, I am now converted to using wire wool to sand finishes although obviously I sand the bare wood normally and thoroughly first. It doesn't affect the stain etc but gets the dust and bits off. 

Still testing stain colours and when done, I will try to post some pictures. I tell you what though, beech is bloody HARD hardwood as my wrists and shoulders can attest to!

Thanks for all the replies guys.


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## condeesteso (23 Mar 2013)

Can I re-activate this thread?... I have some solid oak worktops need finishing and I have used various finishes in the past but keen to explore possible alternatives. I find Rustins Danish Oil takes a bit long to harden off and I am not convinced it is the best finish in kitchens. I have used Deck Olje before and that was good I thought.I will look at the Osmo, but would consider the wipe-on Poly that Jim refers to.
At the moment the tops are not fitted and the oak is bare so I was planning a wipe with thinned linseed to bring some colour out first. And obviously I will treat under and topsides the same.
Any experience and advice appreciated.


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## yetloh (23 Mar 2013)

Douglas,

I used poly on our then pitch pine kitchen over 20 years ago and when we replaced it two years ago with cherry worktops I used OSMO. The pitch pine?poly finish needed redoing by the time it was replaced but was in remarkably good shape all things considered. The Osmo cherry seems pretty prone to damage in comparison and I am sure it won't last anything like 20 years.

Jim


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## condeesteso (26 Mar 2013)

Thanks Jim. I tested the poly thinned with turps (around 65/35) on a scrap piece of the oak. I had given it a wipe with thinned linseed first just to get some colour into it. I like the way the build is minimal but it really locks the fibres down and with fine steel wool between coats the finish is getting very nice. That's the plan, sound advice, thank you.


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## Phil Pascoe (26 Mar 2013)

Be careful with wire wool and oak - not a good mixture. There's always a danger of little blue/black stains.


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## yetloh (26 Mar 2013)

A technique I have used on poly with good success is to cut back with wet and dry using white spirit as the lubricant. If the resulting thin slurry is wiped off across the grain it has some grian filling effect.

Jim


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## condeesteso (27 Mar 2013)

understood. Further testing, gone over to teak oil (I have some very blond stuff) as the linseed was going a bit dark. Happy with the wiped-on poly though. Got 2 of the 4 tops glued up now (made up of 3 boards each 200 x 42mm) with continuous tenons along (grooves and 3.6mm ply tongues). They will need some final surfacing... cabinet scrapers in my case, not having an industrial drum sander. Will try and get some pics when they are fitted etc.


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## Jacquiemalta (28 Mar 2013)

I like the wipe on poly technique too. Can't imagine that I'll ever use straight poly coats again - too many bits and dust for my liking.


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## yetloh (28 Mar 2013)

Quite agree.

Jim


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