# Radiator Drain off valve



## ByronBlack (16 Nov 2006)

Does anyone know where I can buy a single 'screw' that goes in a radiator drain off, basically when mine is completely tight, it still drips out a bit of water. I had a plumber in recently to fix a leaking pipe elsewhere and recommended I get a new one, but not having a plumber supplies near-by and not knowing what to look for on the net I can't seem to find the product.

Any pointers would be quite useful so that I can get my hot water back on


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## andys wood shed (16 Nov 2006)

PTFE tape might get you going tonight

just a thought

it might not be the screw but the thread in the radiator?

also they sometimes seal on a O ring

Andy


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## Argee (16 Nov 2006)

Have a look *here* Byron. If that's the part you want, get the whole drain-off valve, replace the screw in yours. Whole thing's only about 60p I think. 

Ray.


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## ByronBlack (16 Nov 2006)

Ray, as our american cousins would say 'You Da Man'!!

Thats exactly the part I was after, just couldn't for the life of me find it!! You have definitly saved me the wrath of SWMBO, she can't survive more than half a day without a hot bath!!

Thanks for that


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## Philly (16 Nov 2006)

BB
Just a thought-these drain off valves have a rubber washer at the end of the "plunger". Normally these fall apart over time-it may not be the nut but the washer you need. DAMHIK :wink: 
Philly


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## tim (16 Nov 2006)

Your hot water and heating should be separate. You may not have heating but you should be able to just have hot water for washing etc.

Cheers

Tim


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## ByronBlack (17 Nov 2006)

tim, our hot water is not seperate unfortunatly. We have a combi boiler that doesn't heat water while the pressure (of the radiator system) is zero - which it is while hte system is drained.

Argee's link should sort it out for me though, just then need to re-fill the system and raise the pressure, hopefully shouldn't have any more problems after that.


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## Jake (17 Nov 2006)

You could still isolate the radiator in question in the meantime - turn off the obvious valve/thermostat and then remove the plastic 'hat' on the other side of the radiator and turn off that hidden valve, then pressurise the CH system and at least you have hot water and CH and just one non-working radiator.

edit: before you mess with the hidden valve, mark its position on the side of the fixed part and then keep a record of the number of turns it takes to close it. Once it is fixed, you will need to open it the same number of turns until the lines line up (assuming the system was set up right in the first place) otherwise the balance will be out and the radiator will take too much or too little flow from the system.


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## Philly (17 Nov 2006)

BB
You can change the plunger while the system is "live" if you are feeling lucky!
Just put down a towel or two and go for it. Saves a lot of time, and you shouldn't get too wet :lol: 
I've done this a few times.......
Philly


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## garywayne (17 Nov 2006)

Byron.

I am sure that it would be much cheaper to go to your local Wicks, hardware store or whatever you have, to obtain this common item. Going to Screwfix will cost an extra £5 won't it. Or was Argee just showing the part, and I have just made a fool of myself.  

Sorry, I'll just skulk off quietly .


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## ByronBlack (17 Nov 2006)

Guy's

Thanks for all the information, much appreciated. I can take the 'plunger' all the way out as the system is almost empty, there's only a small amount of water in the system, hence the dribbling so it will be an easy job to swap the two 'plungers'.

As for hardware stores, unfortunatly I live quite a way from my near nerest wickes, and my locla B&Q are just rubbish, so it's more convenient to get it from screwfix, as I have other stuff that I need to get also


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## Jake (17 Nov 2006)

tim":3knx6sou said:


> Your hot water and heating should be separate. You may not have heating but you should be able to just have hot water for washing etc.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Tim



Not neccessarily - with a combi f'rinstance, it won't fire at all unless the CH system is pressurised. Or indeed any pressurised system boiler which heats the tank via diverter valves - they just won't fire without pressure.

And in a pressurised system you'd also make a big mess swapping the drain plug over 'live' as Philly suggested. And its damn hard to get the plug back in against the pressurised jet of water that squirts out of the hole. DAMHIKT.

edit: oh, I was imagining the wrong part - you'd have even more of a mess with one of those open and a (full and) pressurised system!


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