# Scrolling question about puzzles



## StevieB (11 Apr 2006)

I have been cutting wooden jigsaw puzzles on the scrollsaw, mainly in 6mm birch ply without a problem using flying dutchman puzzle blades. When I switch to 25mm hardwood to make free standing 3D puzzles as recommended in a book I recently got I run into a problem.

The blade does not seem to be making vertical cuts, rather the bottom of the cut seems to 'lag behind' the top of the cut such that when i turn a curve or sharp corner it makes the pieces only fit together from one side ie I can put piece A into piece B, but not piece B into piece A. Sorry if thats not a very good explanation.

I can think of a couple of reasons for this. 1) I am pushing too hard and not letting the blade cut. 2) the table is not square to the blade, 3) the blade is not square to the timber. I have slowed down and checked 2 and 3 to no avail. Does anyone have any other ideas or tips?

I am the first to admit its a cheap saw (Rexxon from B&Q). I assume I am getting the same problem with 6mm birch ply but 6mm is not enough to make the pieces mis-fit. The only other thought I had was that the puzzle blades were too fine for use in 25mm thick timber and I should switch to a #5 or possibly #7. Problem with this is as its a free standing 3D jigsaw I need the pieces to fit fairly tightly - widening the kerf of the cut is going to affect this.

On the plus side, the FD blades really are as good as other users have suggested, leaving a silky smooth edge to birch ply that needs no sanding.

Steve.


----------



## radicalwood (11 Apr 2006)

Hi Steve,

At a guess its a courser blade that is required. 
No doubt one of the scrollers will be along in a while to put me wright :lol: .

Neil


----------



## Chris Knight (11 Apr 2006)

Steve,
I am sure Gill will have a proper answer but IIRC don't the blades of these saws move away from the vertical during the reciprocation cycle? I guess you only notice the small declination in thicker wood.


----------



## Gill (11 Apr 2006)

Hi Steve

Before you look at anything else, make sure your table really is square to the blade! If it is, you should be able to make a small cut into a 25mm block of squared scrap wood, then invert the wood and the blade will fit perfectly into the cut you've just made. An error of even ½° will be noticeable. I check my blade and table for squareness _every time_ before I start cutting - it's amazing how easy it is for the table to be knocked out just a little by accident without even noticing. I've got a little perspex protractor which is ideal for the task, but you could use an engineer's square instead.

Another point to consider is switching to a skip tooth blade. The puzzle blades have the teeth set close together and they work very well in thin wood because the saw stroke is sufficient to clear away the cut waste material. However, with thicker woods it's much more difficult for the blade to clear itself and the debris tends to gather, making it more difficult for the blade to work efficiently. A skip tooth blade has a clearance between the teeth which allows the debris to fall away, giving a more efficient cut.

Let me know if you've still got problems.

Gill


----------



## StevieB (13 Apr 2006)

Thanks for the replies, apologies for the delay in responding. I do have some skip tooth blades so will try those over Easter. I am desperately trying to convince myself its not the saw so I don't need a new one. Had a poke about on e-bay yesterday for a Hegner and ended up buying a Kity 419 instead!    Got in with a few seconds to go, and beat the other last minute bidder by 3p! Result! Guess I wont be able to get a Hegner past SWMBO for quite a while now, just got to work out how to get the kity into the workshop without her noticing....


A very happy Steve.


----------



## Colin C (13 Apr 2006)

StevieB":39kfhpsz said:


> Thanks for the replies, apologies for the delay in responding. I do have some skip tooth blades so will try those over Easter. I am desperately trying to convince myself its not the saw so I don't need a new one. Had a poke about on e-bay yesterday for a Hegner and ended up buying a Kity 419 instead!    Got in with a few seconds to go, and beat the other last minute bidder by 3p! Result! Guess I wont be able to get a Hegner past SWMBO for quite a while now, just got to work out how to get the kity into the workshop without her noticing....



A very happy Steve. Was that the one in Rye as I was looking at that myself


----------



## LyNx (13 Apr 2006)

> work out how to get the kity into the workshop without her noticing....



So you have a cover for your BBQ? Place this over the top of your 419 and wheel it into the workshop. The bread knife will think your cleaning the bar'B up ready for summer :wink: 

Andy


----------



## StevieB (13 Apr 2006)

Hi Colin, yup thats the one. I got it for £400.03p, next highest bid was £400 - hope that wasnt you! Bit higher than I wanted to go for a second hand one to be honest but as I was saving for a new one I look at it as actually saving myself £260 :wink: fingers crossed its had the light use advertised - looked OK in the pics. I pick it up next weekend.

Cheers,

Steve.


----------



## Colin C (13 Apr 2006)

No it was not me  
I was looking to bid on it but it was going for more than I had at the mo, so I will be looking to get a Fox F36-524.
Its just like the Kity but some what less money ( need to get shot of the ferm that I have) 
Ihope you enjoy your new toy ( sorry said it again, I mean tool :wink: )


----------

