# Flush router bit for 60mm hardwood join.



## Jitter (2 Apr 2022)

Happy Holidays everyone. Looking for a little advice from the grapevine.

I have taken on a project for a client with a set of burr elm book-matched slabs to be joined. Although the wood is well prepped and dry/flat, the long square edges to be joined need straightened with only a few mm out from one end to the other.

Although I have the Wadkin planer which always does a good job in creating flat and square edges, these slabs are quite hefty and wide so accuracy I guess in this regard may be difficult.

The slabs are approximately 60mm in thickness and I think that running a router freehand off a factory straight edge of ply or similar would do for flush routing.

My question is, what half inch flush router bit would you suggest for the job if they are available in the length required? Presumably a straight vertical cutter would be best to prevent breakout on the surfaces?

Sometimes asking what has been tried and tested by others can prevent problems, I like to learn the easy way. Any guidance is much appreciated.


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## RobinBHM (2 Apr 2022)

I’d be tempted to try this:





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Multi Trim







www.wealdentool.com





Im not a 100% sure but I think if you removed the bottom bearing, did a say 45mm trim on one side, put the bearing back and flushed the other side it would work.

these cutters are far better than the usual trim cutters - they are 19mm dia and being disposable blades are proper sharp - I’ve used them to trim a full cut on 12mm birch ply no problem and will take off 6mm from 18mm birch easily. When brand new cutters are on, they will trim against the grain cleanly too, if done with finesse.


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## TRITON (2 Apr 2022)

Down cut spiral bit ?. 
Taking care as the spiral can lift the router so keep fair downward pressure on it during use.
Im not sure you would be able to do it in a single pass. I think its only max is about 50mm
Failing that a xl long straight bit the type of which is for kitchen fitting in cutting worktops. Some come with a slightly angled cutter for a shear action, which should keep the top surface chip free.


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## Jitter (2 Apr 2022)

RobinBHM said:


> I’d be tempted to try this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks. I’ve used Wealden cutters for slab flattening before, I’ve found their bits to give a good quality finish.


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## Jitter (2 Apr 2022)

RobinBHM said:


> I’d be tempted to try this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks. I guess I could use a guide rail against the flat edge of the router base for a straight edge


TRITON said:


> Down cut spiral bit ?.
> Taking care as the spiral can lift the router so keep fair downward pressure on it during use.
> Im not sure you would be able to do it in a single pass. I think its only max is about 50mm
> Failing that a xl long straight bit the type of which is for kitchen fitting in cutting worktops. Some come with a slightly angled cutter for a shear action, which should keep the top surface chip free.


Thanks.
Actually a long kitchen cutter may be the answer if I just run the base of the router along my plunge saw guiderail or another straight edge. I have seen 70mm kitchen cutters.


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## Jameshow (2 Apr 2022)

Clamp both pieces together and run edge through the pt together end on! 

that way the edges are matched?

Going to need a helping hand?


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## TRITON (2 Apr 2022)

Jitter said:


> Actually a long kitchen cutter may be the answer if I just run the base of the router along my plunge saw guiderail or another straight edge. I have seen 70mm kitchen cutters.


This one is 63mm cut. Overall length 115mm
Priced at a very keen £31.80








Trend TR37X12MMTC Straight 12mm diameter x 63mm x 115mm Ol


Straight 12mm diameter x 63mm x 115mm Ol




trenddirectuk.com





However, the 70mm depth of cut, which at 60mm thickness of board you dont need, is £51.48








C023DX1/2TC - Trend CraftPro 1/2in Shank Two Flute Straight Router Cutter Bit 14mm dia x 70mm cut depth


Trend CraftPro 1/2in Shank Two Flute Straight Router Cutter Bit 14mm dia x 70mm cut depth




www.trend-uk.com


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## Jitter (2 Apr 2022)

TRITON said:


> This one is 63mm cut. Overall length 115mm
> Priced at a very keen £31.80
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks Triton, I’ll take a look at these.


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## Jitter (2 Apr 2022)

Jameshow said:


> Clamp both pieces together and run edge through the pt together end on!
> 
> that way the edges are matched?
> 
> Going to need a helping hand?



Thanks for the idea. I have heard of people doing it this way although was unsure about myself making a good job of doing both slabs at the same time.

I guess if I lifted both slabs from the flat surface using the same thickness packers I.e. plywood or mdf strips, I can set the gap to enable as much clearance as possible but still engaging fully on each edge with the blade from end to end. Proceed to do it in one single pass with the boards clamped down using a long twin fluted kitchen cutter?


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## Jitter (2 Apr 2022)

Jameshow said:


> Clamp both pieces together and run edge through the pt together end on!
> 
> that way the edges are matched?
> 
> Going to need a helping hand?



I see now! Run the two boards clamped together through the planer! Now there’s an idea  I would never have thought of that.


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## Distinterior (2 Apr 2022)

With 2 pieces of wood that size, weight & thickness, I would be inclined to square the edges up using a router and doing it by way of a " Mirror Cut".

If the 2 edges have a mm or so gap when pushed together, then just clamp the 2 pieces down flat on a good flat surface. If your router cutter is 19mm diameter, then space the 2 pieces apart by about 16/17mm and set up your router and a good straight edge that will allow you to run the cutter right down the middle of the gap.
The cutter will remove 1mm or so from EACH edge of the 2 boards at the same time.......Even if your straight edge isn't perfectly straight, the cutter will mirror the cut on each board.
When you push the 2 boards together, they should marry up perfectly, even if the joint is not perfectly straight.....

I've cut many a butt joint like this on various materials and its always worked very well.

A couple of tips I can give you are,....Don't try to remove too much material in one pass!
Get the 2 edges as straight as possible before you do the mirror cut.
One uninterrupted cut removing minimal material always yields the best results.


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## Jameshow (2 Apr 2022)

Distinterior said:


> With 2 pieces of wood that size, weight & thickness, I would be inclined to square the edges up using a router and doing it by way of a " Mirror Cut".
> 
> If the 2 edges have a mm or so gap when pushed together, then just clamp the 2 pieces down flat on a good flat surface. If your router cutter is 19mm diameter, then space the 2 pieces apart by about 16/17mm and set up your router and a good straight edge that will allow you to run the cutter right down the middle of the gap.
> The cutter will remove 1mm or so from EACH edge of the 2 boards at the same time.......Even if your straight edge isn't perfectly straight, the cutter will mirror the cut on each board.
> ...


Double


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## baldkev (2 Apr 2022)

The photos below show a desk top i made as described by Disinterior above.

You can set the router depth to say 5mm and buzz through, set depth to 10mm and go again etc. For this it'd be wise to set up a second board as a guide to create a channel to run the router down so it cant slop about.
Im my case i had a curved template which i ran against for one cut, then finished the rest off with a flush trim bit.... this was brcause i didnt want to risk messing up/ not being dead tight to the template for 5 or 6 depth passes....
I would very much recommend a good quality top bearing flush trim bit, not a cheap chinese one. In fact, that goes for any router bit to be honest!


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## Jitter (2 Apr 2022)

Thanks guys, a few different ways I could tackle it then. In an attempt to save on setup and cash, I’ll try clamping the boards and planing them first. I’d be hopeful about doing it that way and the planer does give good results, it will be good to know for future too. It only needs a minimal amount off each board and they are flat already. If for any reason it proves to be difficult, I’ll give the mirror cut a go as I can see that working well also. This would probably be a good way to do it if I knew the boards were simply too long to get a decent result on the planer. The only thing that was putting me off using the planer was that they would not be cut at the exact same angle but cutting them together of course should eliminate that problem. I will fold them up like butterfly wings and clamp them, get a hand from a trusty friend to lift them and try that first. I’ll let you all know how it goes. 

Thanks for all the help


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## RobinBHM (2 Apr 2022)

I’ve found these Erbauer bits fantastic quality - better than or as good as trend

1/2” x 63mm £11.99









Erbauer 1/2


Order online at Screwfix.com. High quality, durable design. Produce a smooth edge on a workpiece and precise, flat bottomed grooves. Suitable for kitchen worktops. Recommended for use with hand-held routers. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 5 minutes.



www.screwfix.com


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## baldkev (2 Apr 2022)

If its close enough, can you hand plane? It might be just as quick by the time youve tried other things. With clamping and planing on a p/t, the outfeed face needs to be dead flat all the way through, otherwise any discrepancy will be doubled when you put the 2 edges together.


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## pgrbff (3 Apr 2022)

I've just bought a cmt up/down CMT spiral TCT cutter at a great price. This should ensure minimal breakout top and bottom.




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Search Results | Scott+Sargeant UK







www.scosarg.com





It was less than half the discounted price here in Italy.


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## Distinterior (3 Apr 2022)

pgrbff said:


> I've just bought a cmt up/down CMT spiral TCT cutter at a great price. This should ensure minimal breakout top and bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Nearly £53 Inc vat,....not exactly cheap and it needs a 12mm collet....not every router has the facility to fit a 12mm collet, hence why its probably been reduced in price...??


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## pgrbff (3 Apr 2022)

I wouldn't call it expensive either for a solid TCT bit, not if you're going to use it to make a living. I looked at the Wealden compression bits and I think they were more or less similar price.
I have 12mm because most large bits here are 12 not 1/2".
I have always tried to stick with Titman but Brexit has put a stop to that.


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## hlvd (3 Apr 2022)

A track saw would give you a straight edge and depending on the blade would possibly give an edge with minimal cleanup.

Another way is to run a groove with a router up to it maximum depth, cut off what’s left leaving a slight protrusion and then flush cut from the opposite side.

Failing all that, cut away from the line with whatever saw you’ve got and clean up with a No7/8 or whatever 2 3/8” plane you’ve got at your disposal.


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## MikeK (3 Apr 2022)

hlvd said:


> A track saw would give you a straight edge and depending on the blade would possibly give an edge with minimal cleanup.



I was going to recommend a track saw, but cutting a 60mm thick panel would require something like the Festool TS 75. I cut glue-ready edges in 60mm thick walnut slabs for a friend using the TS 75 and Panther rip blade. It was easier to take the tools to him rather than drag the large slabs to my shop.


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## TRITON (3 Apr 2022)

hlvd said:


> A track saw would give you a straight edge and depending on the blade would possibly give an edge with minimal cleanup.





MikeK said:


> I was going to recommend a track saw




Q:"Im interested in a router"
A: Have you considered a track saw ?.

Q: "Im thinking of buying a new bandsaw, any recommendations ?"
A: Have you considered a track saw ?.

Q: "Im thinking a plane would be best to clean up this edge"
A: Have you considered using a track saw ?

Q: "Im thinking of buying a new television"
A: Have you considered a track saw ?

Some just cant help themselves


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## MikeK (3 Apr 2022)

TRITON said:


> Some just cant help themselves



If the only tool in your box is a hammer, then it would be great if all problems looked like nails. I noticed that you didn't include any snide comments about the suggestion for using a P/T or hand plane to joint the edges.


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## Jitter (3 Apr 2022)

The Wadkin UOS I have has a decent flat and solid out feed, the issue will possibly be the length of the outfeed. The slabs close in the centre and slight gap at the ends so thinking if I do a few passes until they outfeed flat on the surface, it should take away the slight curve with not too much hassle as the slabs are only 1250mm length.


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## Jitter (3 Apr 2022)

MikeK said:


> I was going to recommend a track saw, but cutting a 60mm thick panel would require something like the Festool TS 75. I cut glue-ready edges in 60mm thick walnut slabs for a friend using the TS 75 and Panther rip blade. It was easier to take the tools to him rather than drag the large slabs to my shop.


Got the TS 55 track saw, want the 75 but is on a long expensive list of things to acquire over time. In the last few weeks I’ve bought a bandsaw and a domino XL so I’m having to build up capital again. To be honest, I don’t know how I managed without a bandsaw before, it is like I have been avoiding doing jobs because I haven’t been equipped. Certainly the TS 75 would no doubt do the job, I have used the 55 for many joins like this on thinner slabs with great results.


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## TRITON (3 Apr 2022)

MikeK said:


> If the only tool in your box is a hammer, then it would be great if all problems looked like nails. I noticed that you didn't include any snide comments about the suggestion for using a P/T or hand plane to joint the edges.


It's just a joke Mark. Nothing snide about it. Hence adding the Television bit.


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## baldkev (4 Apr 2022)

i wonder if festool do hammer attachments for their tracks... dead straight strikes  or actually, an 18v hammer?!? You can get makita 18v everything ( apart from, probably, dildos ) oh hey, i ought to patent those, i could get RICH!!!!!


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## Doug71 (4 Apr 2022)

baldkev said:


> i wonder if festool do hammer attachments for their tracks... dead straight strikes  or actually, an 18v hammer?!? You can get makita 18v everything ( apart from, probably, dildos ) oh hey, i ought to patent those, i could get RICH!!!!!












DVR350Z - 18V Vibrating Poker LXT


Product




makitauk.com


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## baldkev (4 Apr 2022)

Doug71 said:


> DVR350Z - 18V Vibrating Poker LXT
> 
> 
> Product
> ...


Dag nabbit you wrecked my dreams, I'll be forever consigned to being a porper ( if thats how its spelt )


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## Jitter (8 Apr 2022)

Today I used Jameshow’s idea of clamping the boards together and running them a few passes on the Wadkin planer. It was just manageable on my own and would have needed a help and more outfeed set up if they were any longer and heavier. The results were great. The boards were a little rough in spots so sanded the high spots to get them sitting flat together then lifted them onto the infeed table and clamped. I made sure they were clamped tight to avoid them falling into the planer head! Pushed them through, turned machine off and rotated blade by hand to avoid the wood as I slid it back over the cutter head onto the infeed again. Repeated this process a few times and that did the trick. Bunged 5 domino’s in, applied glue and used a couple of ratchet straps to pull them together. The boards snapped closed, simply wiped of the glue, chucked a level across it and hey presto! 
Thanks to all for your help. Some great ideas here for different scenarios.


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## ColeyS1 (10 Apr 2022)

looks like a good result !! Don't overthink a project when something longer than a number 4 would work with a bit of patience


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## Jameshow (10 Apr 2022)




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## MCTWoodwork (12 Aug 2022)

pgrbff said:


> I've just bought a cmt up/down CMT spiral TCT cutter at a great price. This should ensure minimal breakout top and bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I bought one of them from Wealdon, it gives a clean finish without any tear out or chips etc. Great project, @Jitter you will have to post some photos when you have completed it


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## MCTWoodwork (12 Aug 2022)

Jitter said:


> The Wadkin UOS I have has a decent flat and solid out feed, the issue will possibly be the length of the outfeed. The slabs close in the centre and slight gap at the ends so thinking if I do a few passes until they outfeed flat on the surface, it should take away the slight curve with not too much hassle as the slabs are only 1250mm length.


I was taught to dish slightly each edge when jointing (workbench tops and table tops) with a hand plane after machining (using a no 7 no make it easier) with the ends touching 50-100 mm (on both at ends) on each component you are jointing, leaving a slight 1-1.5mm between each board and then glue up. Stops the ends from potentially pulling apart over time, which can happen on end grain.


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## Jitter (12 Aug 2022)

MCTWoodwork said:


> I bought one of them from Wealdon, it gives a clean finish without any tear out or chips etc. Great project, @Jitter you will have to post some photos when you have completed it


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## MCTWoodwork (12 Aug 2022)

Jitter said:


> View attachment 141558
> View attachment 141559
> View attachment 141560
> View attachment 141561
> ...


Beautiful! Love the finish. Brings out the grain beautifully, Danish?


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## baldkev (12 Aug 2022)

Oh wow, good job!!


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## Spectric (12 Aug 2022)

These bits are great Mega Flush Trim Bits - Infinity Tools but getting 60mm is a problem unless you remove a bearing and do two passes one from each side. This wealdon cutter is good and might just do the job T8048B-1/2 with a 65 mm cut Panel Trim or this one T8184B-1/2 at 75mm cut but is oos Up-Down Plunge Trim 

Maybe this is another positive for a spindle moulder because I dare say that could face it of as long as the fence can be offset.


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## Jitter (12 Aug 2022)

MCTWoodwork said:


> Beautiful! Love the finish. Brings out the grain beautifully, Danish?


Osmo poly-x wax oil (satin)


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## baldkev (12 Aug 2022)

Osmo is good.
A customer of mine used liberon finishing oil on an oak worktop i made in his art studio. It looked ridiculously good. Next time I'm over there I'll get a photo.
Edit to ask: how far did you go with sandpaper grit? I once went to 3k wet n dry and then waxed, it was pretty darn shiney


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## Jitter (13 Aug 2022)

baldkev said:


> Osmo is good.
> A customer of mine used liberon finishing oil on an oak worktop i made in his art studio. It looked ridiculously good. Next time I'm over there I'll get a photo.
> Edit to ask: how far did you go with sandpaper grit? I once went to 3k wet n dry and then waxed, it was pretty darn shiney


Usually when resin is involved I’ll take the wood right up the grades to keep it looking even across the whole piece although once I get past 600 grit, I don’t see the point really as the finish is more likely to make it look and feel more smooth than high grade sandpaper will. 

I tend to sand the whole piece up to around 150- 180 grit then first coat the whole thing. This allows the wood to actually take in the oil properly. I’ll just use a rag to apply evenly it at that stage then a dry one to take off excess. Then allow to dry 18 hours or so. Then I’ll hit it with 180-240 then apply another coat but this time using an orbital sander or buffer with a microfibre cloth, another dry one to take off excess again. This works it into the grain. I’ve heard some use scotchbright pads with the orbital which apparently helps to generate heat so the oil goes deeper. 

Once dry I will go 320-400-600 on the whole thing then take the resin 800-1000-1200-1500-2000 then polish. I tend to use abralon pads damp with1000 and 2000 grit before polishing resin. I then apply the final coat of Osmo over the whole thing taking off the excess until touch dry and there is no product left on the resin because if it dries on the resin it smears and takes away the polished look.


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## baldkev (13 Aug 2022)

Does the paper tend to clog up quicker with oiled/ waxed dust?

I recently sent an oak and resin top off to a customer upcountry, she was finishing it herself, i left the oak at 240 grit and went to 2k with the resin. Not quite finished in the photo, but getting there. I left in some of the original milling marks and features for a rustic look , which was requested


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## Jitter (13 Aug 2022)

baldkev said:


> Does the paper tend to clog up quicker with oiled/ waxed dust?
> 
> I recently sent an oak and resin top off to a customer upcountry, she was finishing it herself, i left the oak at 240 grit and went to 2k with the resin. Not quite finished in the photo, but getting there. I left in some of the original milling marks and features for a rustic look , which was requested


I like the rustic look, it’s not something I’ve dabbled with myself. I think it goes well with the industrial style metal legs etc. 
I guess because of the resin having to be polished to a sheen all the time it just makes sense otherwise I find the finish on the wood uneven and patchy where the areas around the resin are shiny and the rest in comparison is dull.

I use Mirka mesh sandpaper with Festool orbitals and Festool extraction. I find this system excellent for keeping the sandpaper as unclogged as possible. One trick I use is to re-use the previous sanding disc to give a quick go over after the oil has dried. This takes off the very surface of the coat, de-nibs and flattens high areas where possibly the grain was raised after applying the oil. I just do a quick go over with that and expect the majority of the waxy surface to clog the sanding disc a little but then change over to the new higher grade disc and find that it doesn’t really clog up any more than usual. I expect the extraction helps allot with this. Without that I think clogging would be a problem.


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## baldkev (13 Aug 2022)

I did the resin to high grit, than went over the oak , doing the edges near the resin by hand with the grain  you just have to be very careful not to catch the resin


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## ChrisWiduWood (15 Aug 2022)

Jitter said:


> Thanks. I guess I could use a guide rail against the flat edge of the router base for a straight edge


i would also suggest just using a worktop cutter 12.5 against the side of a rail but dont use the flat part! use any part of the round. if you run off the round it will never be wrong, if you run it off the flat you could unintentionally twist and add bumps... if that makes sense?


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