# Possible can of worms



## Garno (28 Dec 2020)

I am possibly opening a can of worms here but that honestly is not my intention.

Being new to woodturning my wonderful other half or formally known as Mrs G got me the book Woodturning: A Foundation Course (With DVD): Amazon.co.uk: Keith Rowley: 9781784940638: Books I am still reading through it and have noticed a common theme running through it, that is to buy the best you can afford (Chuck, chisels, etc etc) and to keep your chisels both clean and sharp. He basically says the difference between a semi blunt and a sharp chisel are like chalk and cheese, he does actually say that many a new comer has been put off turning due to the chisels not being sharp enough.

3 days ago both myself and Mrs G were given £200 each a total of £400 and we decided to get a sharpener that would not ruin the HSS chisels I have (I have it in my head that it is easy to overheat the ends of chisels). I have now started looking at the ProEdge machines but really do not know just what it is I should be looking for, I am getting very confused over what jigs I would need, for the money I would want the machine to sharpen kitchen knives, normal chisels, drill bits (not that I ever drill things) and most importantly all of the chisels for turning. So far I have come up with this Robert Sorby PED01A ProEdge Deluxe System PED01A – Poolewood

After my feeble woodwork attempts I know I cannot sharpen so much as a pencil by hand, it got to the stage where I would hit the chisels harder with my mallet to compensate for the bluntness, so I need a machine and jigs to take care of that sort of thing. Am I going about all this the wrong way and should save our money and go for something cheap? or should I fire the bullet and go for it? I will be buying at the beginning of January so in the meantime I will put up a wanted request to see if any of the forum members have one laying around.

Thank you for reading this all the way through
Gary


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## Steliz (28 Dec 2020)

I've heard a lot of positive feedback for the Pro edge but I've never used one. When I started I got a Tormek and I'm very happy with the results I get on it.


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## Tris (28 Dec 2020)

My understanding is that you'd be hard pushed to overheat hss to the point that you'd damage it. I've used a record 8" grinder with a Axminster woodturner sharpening system (cheaper versions on eBay now) for a many years on hss tools. I sharpened a bowl gouge this afternoon and it took less than a minute to be back at the lathe. 
At the moment that set up would cost no more than £150
Hth
Tris


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## marcros (28 Dec 2020)

I have the proedge, but I have only used it for turning tools, the odd plane blade and bench chisels. Never for kitchen knives so I can't comment on the jigs for that. I have never sharpened a drill bit in my life so no comment there either.

I have had mine for several years now and I think that I bought the deluxe set. It comes with a v block which is used for the roughing gouge, and I use the side of it for bench chisels or anything flat needing a 90 degree end. You can get a special extra for this but I didn't. You also get a piece for doing spindle and bowl gouges. You can buy an extra for doing special grinds, I haven't bought that piece. That will get you going and will cover the tools that you have.

I bought a short skew (blade 4" long, badged as "micro" I think) from somewhere and the table on the proedge interfered with the ferrule. I did buy the shorter table to help with sharpening that. I don't think it was that expensive but I would probably make something now instead. I also bought the jig that converts angles to extensions for the bowl gouge jig. This is essential and should be included. It was unnecessarily made from sheet metal, and I can give you the measurements to make one yourself. You could either draw it on paper and use that, or glue/pin some stops on a piece of wood and use that. Either way a few mins work.

Edit: you also get a skew jig which I have used but I prefer an unskewed skew so tend not to. For normal skews it is good, oval section is a bit trickier but it works. In my opinion, you will need the 3 jigs from the deluxe package, you will struggle without them.


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## marcros (28 Dec 2020)

The proedge has no learning curve. You could sharpen a turning tool on it correctly from the first use. If I was buying again now, it would be on the short list. A CBN wheel on a grinder with the appropriate jigs also would be. I am not sure which side the seesaw would fall on.


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## Inspector (28 Dec 2020)

Over heating modern HSS tools is almost impossible. HSS was created for the machining industry before carbide came along and can hold its edge even when dull red hot. So even if you blue the edge you have not ruined it just don't plunge it in cold water to cool it. That will create microscopic fractures in the metal and the edge will dull more quickly. Set it aside and let it air cool and it will be fine. If you have old carbon steel tools (30+ years old or more) what I said does not apply.

I have always used bench grinders so that is what I would suggest. A "low speed", 1400rpm in the voltage hertz you use but a 2800rpm would be fine. A 1 hp would allow you to upgrade down the road to the heavier CBN wheels if and when you are ready. 8" diameter 1" or more wide, with a coarse wheel of 60 to 80 grit and a fine wheel of 120 grit, both aluminium oxide, usually white. For the jig a Oneway Wolverine or equivalent. Get a diamond wheel dresser to keep new grit exposed (sharp so it cuts cool and dress it when areas reflect light looking smooth). I have never use the ProEdge or Tormek so can't comment on whether they are as good or better or not.

Pete


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## Tris (28 Dec 2020)

I like the look of the pro edge, the jigs seem sensible and the fact that the sharpening surface is flat could be useful for knives etc. At the time I was looking I couldn't justify the cost.


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## Sheptonphil (28 Dec 2020)

I ditched the wet slow grinder in favour of the Proedge. I use it for all my turning tools and it will reshape, sharpen and hone to a superb edge just by changing the grade of belt.

Sorby sell a turners package that comes with the guides and jigs you will use to easily and repeatedly sharpen all gouges, skews, and chisels.

I also use it for plane irons and chisels and also as a general grinder where the wheeled grinder is just too fierce.

I would never go back to either a wet or dry wheel sharpening system.

The proedge is just a superb system, with one flaw in the design, the switch is a real pain to turn on and off. A standard two button switch would gave been so much nicer. I did look recently at the Axminster version, but I believe it works out a lot more expensive.


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## flh801978 (28 Dec 2020)

Gary
If you wish and you ok with the social distance come and have a look at my proedge machine bring your blunt knifes and chisels and I’ll show you how it works ..i think i have all the jigs
Ian s7


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## TRITON (28 Dec 2020)

Definitely a way to go when it comes to sharpening to a fine edge, Axminster tools do something similar, and no doubt a few more. But I always look at the cost of the accessories, as with some it can add up to a considerable amount.


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## sneggysteve (28 Dec 2020)

+1 for the pro edge


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## Garno (28 Dec 2020)

flh801978 said:


> Gary
> If you wish and you ok with the social distance come and have a look at my proedge machine bring your blunt knifes and chisels and I’ll show you how it works ..i think i have all the jigs
> Ian s7



PM sent Ian


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## chunkymonkey (28 Dec 2020)

Hi Gary!
I started woodturning A few months ago!
I bought a nova lathe with belt change for speed ,so no infinite speed control, I bought various chisels with the lathe.
I bought a sharpening jig and thought I had now created sharp chisels, as I wanted to turn big stuff ,with no experience I had mighty chunks of wood flying off the lathe and heading across the workshop!
I was getting catches because of lack of experience but mostly through blunt tools,I then bought an axminster wetstone with all the gigs similar in style to the Tormek unit .
Although this was a lovely bit of kit it was a slow process to get my tools sharp, I was then pointed to the Stuart Batty 40/40 grind videos and having watched them a number of times ,I decided to follow his ideas !
I have now sold my wetstone grinder and have bought a True-Grind CBN wheel for my bench grinder , Wow! what a revolution it is, I now have sharp tools that cut wood like butter and I need no jigs for my bowl gouges .
I now have a new evolution chuck ,Colossus jaws and nothing is flying around the workshop" at the moment " 
I must say that Stuarts ideas have set me on a path where I can enjoy my turning ,I will never make a good turner but I can now enjoy having a go at it and turning some nice extremely large items ,which is what I wanted .


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## karlpolly10 (28 Dec 2020)

1 for the pro edge, its simple to use


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## Lons (28 Dec 2020)

+1 for the Pro-edge, sharpening takes seconds , simple and great results, you can buy cheaper belts than originals as well. The motor can get in the way on some of the long tools and I have the end guard permanently removed so belt change is probably 20 seconds


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## TFrench (29 Dec 2020)

I've got a pro edge, love it. Coarse belt put my bench ginder into semi retirement and the trizact belts get you to very sharp on things like planes and chisels.


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## planesleuth (29 Dec 2020)

I have a Robert Sorby pro edge and I too would never go back to wet grindstones. Razor sharp very time and so quick. You do need to purchase the complete range of belts though especially the three trizac belts. Then finish the edge with leather strop and paste.


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## clogs (29 Dec 2020)

Garno
in the same boat...was looking at a new Tormek then the pro edge was metioned....both totally over priced....
and wont even look at AX stuff anymore.....
so I'll just buid my own with a vari speed motor control.....
Luckily I have the gear to do it and I will enjoy the fun in doing so....
If the pro edge was about 1/2 the price (and thats enough) as it should be I would buy it in a heat beat.....


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## Phil Pascoe (29 Dec 2020)

planesleuth said:


> You do need to purchase the complete range of belts though especially the three trizac belts. Then finish the edge with leather strop and paste.



I suspect you might be alone in that.


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## Mick p (29 Dec 2020)

Garno said:


> I am possibly opening a can of worms here but that honestly is not my intention.
> 
> Being new to woodturning my wonderful other half or formally known as Mrs G got me the book Woodturning: A Foundation Course (With DVD): Amazon.co.uk: Keith Rowley: 9781784940638: Books I am still reading through it and have noticed a common theme running through it, that is to buy the best you can afford (Chuck, chisels, etc etc) and to keep your chisels both clean and sharp. He basically says the difference between a semi blunt and a sharp chisel are like chalk and cheese, he does actually say that many a new comer has been put off turning due to the chisels not being sharp enough.
> 
> ...


In the 8 the years I’ve been turning I’ve spent far too much money on sharpening systems and jigs i now have the pro edge it’s the best money I’ve ever spent on my wood turning journey the repeatability cannot be beaten and done so quickly especially the not having to faff about with the water on the over priced tormek my only regret is didn’t buy the pro edge in the first place a saved a small fortune 
just my opinion


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## Jacob (29 Dec 2020)

Expensive but is good the Pro-edge and nicely made, but not as good as the 12" flat sanding disc which came with my lathe, especially for wider blades. Runs a lot cooler too. Sold the Pro edge.


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## Sideways (29 Dec 2020)

Another pro edge user and very happy with it.
It's a big lump of money but once bought, you won't regret it.
It's not perfect but it is strong, consistent and easy to use. The freedom to use belts with different abrasives and grits is a positive.
One caveat is that the pro edge jigs can't replicate the "Ellsworth" grind if you get into bowl turning and want to try that. With the long grind jig it will make something close and perfectly usable though.
I'm not aware of any drill sharpening jig for it.


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## Jacob (29 Dec 2020)

Sideways said:


> Another pro edge user and very happy with it.
> It's a big lump of money but once bought, you won't regret it.
> It's not perfect but it is strong, consistent and easy to use. The freedom to use belts with different abrasives and grits is a positive.
> One caveat is that the pro edge jigs can't replicate the "Ellsworth" grind if you get into bowl turning and want to try that. With the long grind jig it will make something close and perfectly usable though.
> I'm not aware of any drill sharpening jig for it.


You can use different belts on any linisher. 
The kit I most regret parting with was a Picador belt sander. 3" wide but you could fit the Pro edge belts no prob.


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## Kendle99 (29 Dec 2020)

Where's the best ( cheapest ) place to buy the pro edge ?


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## Democritus (29 Dec 2020)

I used a Tormek for years when I was cabinet making, but I fell out with it when I started turning. It was always messy (water everywhere), but was ok for bevel edge chisels, plane blades etc, but I had to put an afternoon aside every so often to sharpen my kit. When I started turning, i found it hopelessly slow when re shaping, but more importantly, I couldn’t quickly restore an edge. The final straw came when I couldn’t replace the stone because the spindle nuts holding the stone had rusted solid. I bit the bullet and bought the Pro edge, and like a lot of the guys on here, have not looked back since. It’s quick and easy to restore an edge, no fuss, no messing. I wouldn’t have a Tormek or similar given me now.


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## Garno (29 Dec 2020)

Kendle99 said:


> Where's the best ( cheapest ) place to buy the pro edge ?



So far from what I have seen this is the cheapest but saying that I am not 100% sure it has all the jigs needed Robert Sorby ProEdge Sharpening System


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## Jacob (29 Dec 2020)

Democritus said:


> I used a Tormek for years when I was cabinet making, but I fell out with it when I started turning. It was always messy (water everywhere), but was ok for bevel edge chisels, plane blades etc, but I had to put an afternoon aside every so often to sharpen my kit. When I started turning, i found it hopelessly slow when re shaping, but more importantly, I couldn’t quickly restore an edge. The final straw came when I couldn’t replace the stone because the spindle nuts holding the stone had rusted solid. I bit the bullet and bought the Pro edge, and like a lot of the guys on here, have not looked back since. It’s quick and easy to restore an edge, no fuss, no messing. I wouldn’t have a Tormek or similar given me now.


Have been hearing the same about Tormek for years. Everybody says slow, messy etc. What's the point of having a slow machine? 
For turning a sanding disc on the outboard end does it for me


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## sneggysteve (29 Dec 2020)

Kendle99 said:


> Where's the best ( cheapest ) place to buy the pro edge ?



I use 50x780mm Woodturning / Sharpening Sander Belts (Pks of 10)


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## Blister (29 Dec 2020)

Garno said:


> So far from what I have seen this is the cheapest but saying that I am not 100% sure it has all the jigs needed Robert Sorby ProEdge Sharpening System



I have a pro edge and a Tormk , I have commented on several occasion the a Tormek is good for re sharpening a edge you have allready established 
The Pro Edge kit you need for woodturning is this one 

*The ProEdge Plus* (ref. PED01A) also *referred to as The Pro-Edge Deluxe (ref. PED01A)*
Has an extra belt - 240 grit aluminium oxide, so you get 3 in total. lt also includes a number of further accessories of special value to the woodturner - a skew chisel jig, a fingernail gouge profiler and a standard gouge jig. These additional attachments help the woodturner overcome sharpening difficulties with skew chisels, standard and fingernail profile gouges.


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## Blister (29 Dec 2020)

Jacob said:


> Have been hearing the same about Tormek for years. Everybody says slow, messy etc. What's the point of having a slow machine?
> For turning a sanding disc on the outboard end does it for me



I think the main problem with " Water everywhere and Messy " is the trough is over filled by the user , You only need a small amount just to wet the stone not drown it , Also at this time of you you need to be careful that the water does not freeze causing damage to the stone , Re the rusted on nut , Could be lack of mainanance , Some use and forget


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## Sideways (29 Dec 2020)

Jacob said:


> You can use different belts on any linisher.
> The kit I most regret parting with was a Picador belt sander. 3" wide but you could fit the Pro edge belts no prob.


Absolutely. It's an advantage of linishers in general just as their running costs are higher (than a grinder) because they gradually consume belts.
I experimented first with putting metal linishing belts on a cheap Delta 4" belt / disc sander before buying the pro edge.
It works and can be adapted to have a 12mm bar to allow use of a pro-edge bowl gouge jig, but after proving the idea to myself I decided to splurge on the PE because it's much better built, smoother and easy to adjust.
A wishlist project for the future is to build myself a knife grinder style machine using 2" wide long belts. It looks feasible and could be made to take the pro edge jigs and more. If that ever comes off, the PE will be sold on.


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## Democritus (29 Dec 2020)

Blister said:


> I think the main problem with " Water everywhere and Messy " is the trough is over filled by the user , You only need a small amount just to wet the stone not drown it , Also at this time of you you need to be careful that the water does not freeze causing damage to the stone , Re the rusted on nut , Could be lack of mainanance , Some use and forget


I was always careful not to overfill the trough, but the stone still acted as a kind of water wheel and water inevitably splashed out. (I used a large roasting tin to stand the machine in to avoid getting water on my bench.)
I’m at a bit of a loss at the suggestion that ‘you need to be careful that the water doesn’t freeze ..damage to the stone.’ You would have to leave the water in the trough for this to happen, and this would represent terrible negligence. I was always careful to clean and dry the machine after use. (A need that is yet another drawback). The problem with the spindle nut is well known with the Tormek grinder (see user forums), and, short of stripping the machine down after each use, is almost inevitable.


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## Jelly (29 Dec 2020)

I simply cannot imagine having the patience to waiting for HSS turning tools to sharpen on a slow-speed wet-grinder like the tormek!

Have always sharpened turning tools using a belt-linisher with a fine belt, (effectively a massively overgrown pro-edge), and re-shaped damaged profiles with a 8" or 12" pedestal grinder... never bothered with jigs etc. _but I already had the knack for off-hand grinding tools with those machines by the time I started turning._

The one thing I would say is that *whatever you buy, the rigidity of the work-rest which supports your tool (or jig) during grinding is critical*, everything else is secondary to that. _If you can't get stable support for the edge, nice and close to the wheel/belt, then you'll always have issues getting a good edge. _

The Sorby Pro-Edge comes up very favourably in that regard, even compared to more expensive options.


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## Retired (29 Dec 2020)

Hi,

Many years ago I had a Denford 16" Sharpedge honing machine this had oil feed. It was incredibly slow and the oil was messy so I sold it on.







I've had industrial grinders but now I have a 6" Wolf double ended bench grinder fully restored by me; I also have two home made belt machines one a 4" I use for general purpose and a 2" I use as a belt grinder for my tools; I've also many years ago tried Japanese water stones finding these to be a waste of money they soon wearing out of true and having to be used with water didn't help. I've got a number of Trend diamond bench stones and also an Arkansas bench oil stone.

I bought a good selection of belt types to fit the 2" grinder including ceramic and trizact; I searched for hours trying to locate a leather honing belt and finally bought a leather belt specially made for me in Texas USA of all places; I don't like using the leather honing belt thinking it rounds the cutting edge over. I've made a fingernail grinding jig.






Homemade fingernail grinding jig.






Tools as ground straight off the 2" belt grinder.






Tools having been honed on the 2" leather belt.






Finials turned with tools straight from the 2" belt grinder. 






I also do metal spimming on my Graduate; here the tools definitely need a mirror finish.






Mirror finish on a spinning tool tip.






My home made 2" belt tool grinder.






My fully restored Wolf 6" grinder and homemade 4" general purpose belt sander.

I can't recommend the high priced dedicated tool grinders being discussed never having tried or used one. For roughing or profiling a tool I use a 60G belt and a 120G belt for finishing. One thing I have noticed is tools taken straight from the 120G belt and used are far better than the tools brought to a mirror finish using the leather honing belt; honing seems to make the tool skid over the surface whereas a directly belt ground tool has serious bite; I've no problems at all turning even the thinest of finials; my tools must be sharp enough otherwise the finial's would soon break.

I'd concentrate on learning woodturning using basic sharpening kit than jumping straight in with highly expensive kit; there are many YouTube videos covering tool sharpening without breaking the bank; a novice tends to grind away lots of tool steel when starting out but a basic bench grinder with a clean grinding wheel will soon grind an edge on a tool and if desired a card type inexpensive diamond hone would put a finer edge on the tool. 

We are all different and I accept this I'm just showing what works for me; my bench grinder and two belt machines were possibly under £100 for all three but I have good workshop facilities; of course sharp tools are needed but money is usually needed for accessories like chucks; my Sorby Patriot chuck cost around £200 but if I tried to buy the full set of jaws for this chuck I'd need a mortgage; I think its more a case of priorities when starting out.

I'll always encourage any would be turner to get stuck in and have a go because turning both wood and metal is addictive with no known cure. Good luck whatever you decide to buy it's entirely your choice.

Kind regards, Colin.


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## Jacob (29 Dec 2020)

Impressed! 
There's also the option of a flat ply + velcro'd sandpaper disc on your outboard end. Works really well.


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## fenhayman (29 Dec 2020)

As a ham fisted amateur I find the Pro Edge invaluable.


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## Phil Pascoe (29 Dec 2020)

I have a six inch Creusen grinder with white wheels and two Sorby 447 jigs. I grind chisels and plane irons on MDF discs on the lathe with abrasive paper stuck on them. (I also have a strong plywood box with a formica top that fixes down on the bed bars as a sanding table at centre height - no adjustment, but perfectly square (good for pen blanks)). 
I don't know any turner that hones tools and I know a pro turner and several very good turners who don't get on with ProEdges because they don't like the dead flat grind. There's no way I could justify the cost for what advantage one would give me over and above what I've already got.


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## Jacob (29 Dec 2020)

Phil Pascoe said:


> I have a six inch Creusen grinder with white wheels and two Sorby 447 jigs. I grind chisels and plane irons on MDF discs on the lathe with abrasive paper stuck on them. (I also have a strong plywood box with a formica top that fixes down on the bed bars as a sanding table at centre height - no adjustment, but perfectly square (good for pen blanks)).
> I don't know any turner that hones tools and I know a pro turner and several very good turners who don't get on with ProEdges because they don't like the dead flat grind. There's no way I could justify the cost for what advantage one would give me over and above what I've already got.


Ditto the mdf or ply discs. Velcro a big help! 
I polish plane blades gouges chisels on a disc with Autosol. Slow speed and spread it on thin or it gets flung off. Takes seconds to polish them up and it turns a sharp plane blade into an uber smoother. Big noticeable difference. Polish leading edge of cap iron too. 
If you profile the edge of the disc it'll polish inside gouges too.


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## Bm101 (29 Dec 2020)

If I was looking again and money was no object i'd forgo the sorby for the new axminster purely for variable belt speed which is a no brainer for non turning tool steel. Like most though I buy a lot of stuff second hand because :Money. So maybe in a few years I will trade in the second hand sorby for a second hand axminster one. Probably not mind. Gary, if you can find an affordable sorby do not hesitate.


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## pryere (29 Dec 2020)

Our good friend Mike Waldt recently adopted the pro edge system.


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## marcros (29 Dec 2020)

Phil Pascoe said:


> I have a six inch Creusen grinder with white wheels and two Sorby 447 jigs. I grind chisels and plane irons on MDF discs on the lathe with abrasive paper stuck on them. (I also have a strong plywood box with a formica top that fixes down on the bed bars as a sanding table at centre height - no adjustment, but perfectly square (good for pen blanks)).
> I don't know any turner that hones tools and I know a pro turner and several very good turners who don't get on with ProEdges because they don't like the dead flat grind. There's no way I could justify the cost for what advantage one would give me over and above what I've already got.



Yeahbut...

A new creusen grinder and 2 new 447 jigs would be almost the price of the Sorby. You are also an experienced turner and know what you are doing. I agree that for you, the additional benefit is marginal and not worth it for the cost. 

To a beginner or somebody with nothing more than a performance power grinder fitted with the original wheel, it is a different story. Even having a box with a grinder in and another box with the jigs in, then working out what to put where can be intimidating. You pay your money and take your choice but the lack of any doubt with regards to setting up and getting going with the proedge is a huge positive to some. 

At the end of the day there are numerous sharpening systems. Some are better than others, some people have a preference for one over another (rightly or wrongly). Whether a pro dislikes the dead flat edge or not, they would universally agree that a sharp tool is preferable to a blunt one, whatever the method used.


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## Phil Pascoe (29 Dec 2020)

Certainly. I bought one jig from a member here and one off evilbay. The Creusen was £40 at the market.


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## Jelly (29 Dec 2020)

Retired said:


> One thing I have noticed is tools taken straight from the 120G belt and used are far better than the tools brought to a mirror finish using the leather honing belt; honing seems to make the tool skid over the surface whereas a directly belt ground tool has serious bite;



I have also experienced this, my carving tools (and smoothing plane and "good chisels") are polished to a mirror finish (leather wheel and white compound), like that they cut through even very splintery timbers like butter with a glossy finish... 

I tried the same approach to turning tools and found that I didn't get enough bite to control the cuts I was taking, and would end up bouncing off then catching resulting in a dog-rough finish.

I had up to now put this down to skill (of all the things I might claim to be somewhat competent at, my turning is by far the most artless), but it may actually be that I was better off with a tougher texture on the cutting edge giving better cutting action and/or providing the force feedback I need for accurate proprioception of the tool's relative position to the workpiece...

Will have to experiment with that.


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## Jacob (29 Dec 2020)

Jelly said:


> I have also experienced this, my carving tools (and smoothing plane and "good chisels") are polished to a mirror finish (leather wheel and white compound), like that they cut through even very splintery timbers like butter with a glossy finish...
> 
> I tried the same approach to turning tools and found that I didn't get enough bite to control the cuts I was taking, and would end up bouncing off then catching resulting in a dog-rough finish.
> 
> ...


I bought a new plane once and the sole was not highly polished but was ground very neatly with scratches going front to back parallel. Result was it tracked dead straight when first used, same reason as your non polished chisels working better.
The effect doesn't last long as the scratches soon lose their sharpness even if still visible. 
But it does mean you don't need to polish a plane sole - I flatten with 80 grit wet n dry but against a lath as a fence so the scratches are lined up straight. The sharpness is soon lost and they become as low friction as a highly polished one, after only a short period of use.


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## Nelly111s (30 Dec 2020)

Kendle99 said:


> Where's the best ( cheapest ) place to buy the pro edge ?


Try Biven Machinery in Blackpool. Great company to deal with.


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## Blaidd-Drwg (30 Dec 2020)

This has been a valuable discussion for me. I've put the Sorby ProEdge on my shortlist. If you are in the US you can find it and all of the accoutrement here:


Packard Woodworks: The Woodturner's Source: Sorby ProEdge Sharpening System


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## Lazurus (30 Dec 2020)

No polishing for me.


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## Garno (30 Dec 2020)

Blaidd-Drwg said:


> This has been a valuable discussion for me. I've put the Sorby ProEdge on my shortlist. If you are in the US you can find it and all of the accoutrement here:
> 
> 
> Packard Woodworks: The Woodturner's Source: Sorby ProEdge Sharpening System



I fully agree, there has been a lot of really good advice given both for and against the ProEdge. 
I find myself going around in circles about what to choose, 
Being unable to visit Ian who had kindly invited me to his home to see the proedge due to lockdown, I ended up having a long chat with him on the phone (very nice bloke and it was an absolute pleasure talking with him) and as a result of that and members on here I am 95% certain I will go go for it.
Thank you everyone who contributed I hope I have not forgotten to put a "Like" or "Thank you" on any posts if I have please let me know.
Gary


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## Daniel2 (30 Dec 2020)

This fascinating thread has also drawn my attention to a new (to me), method of sharpening.
I am not a woodturner, but bother wood with handplanes and chisels.
I have decided that I probably cannot live without one, now I know of their existence.
As well as the Proedge, I was browsing the Axminster offerings and I see they have one that runs backwards, 
ie; away from the operator. 
What, if any, advantage is there to this ? And, if it be so great, why do they continue to offer the regular running version?
I would appreciate any thoughts on this.

ATB,
Daniel


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## picsnbits (31 Dec 2020)

To my mind there is one major difference between sharpening on a ProEdge and any sort of wheel grinder any that is the shape of the bevel. The ProEdge machined produce a flat bevel while sharpening on a wheel creates a hollow grind where only the edge and the heel are on the same plane. 
There are pros and cons for each. For me the big plus for a hollow grind is that it makes it easy to touch up the edge with a diamond card, reducing the number of trips to the grinder. 
Having said that I use the original Sorby Pro Edge because of the ease of creating a repeatable shape to the edge. My excuse is that I am a (retired) scientist and only very recently a Woodturner.


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## Blaidd-Drwg (31 Dec 2020)

I agree with that sentiment. And your signature re-enforces it. Life is too short. I'm a hobbyist (so far) and if jigs and tools can help me get back to using my tools, I'm all for it. Learning to freehand a scary sharp set of chisels is not my motivation.


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## Daniel2 (31 Dec 2020)

picsnbits said:


> To my mind there is one major difference between sharpening on a ProEdge and any sort of wheel grinder any that is the shape of the bevel. The ProEdge machined produce a flat bevel while sharpening on a wheel creates a hollow grind where only the edge and the heel are on the same plane.
> There are pros and cons for each. For me the big plus for a hollow grind is that it makes it easy to touch up the edge with a diamond card, reducing the number of trips to the grinder.
> Having said that I use the original Sorby Pro Edge because of the ease of creating a repeatable shape to the edge. My excuse is that I am a (retired) scientist and only very recently a Woodturner.



Yes, but my question was not regarding the relative merits betwixt hollow and flat grinding.  
It was specifically regarding Axminster's reverse running belt linisher.
 
Axminster Trade Ultimate Edge Reverse Running Sharpening System 




 
What possible advantages might there be to having the belt running away from the workpiece, as opposed to, the more traditional, running toward.

ATB,
Daniel


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## Garno (31 Dec 2020)

Daniel2 said:


> Yes, but my question was not regarding the relative merits betwixt hollow and flat grinding.
> It was specifically regarding Axminster's reverse running belt linisher.
> 
> Axminster Trade Ultimate Edge Reverse Running Sharpening System
> ...



In fairness to him Daniel I don't think he was replying to your query, it seemed more like adding some more valuable input to this thread.

As to your question I honestly have no idea as to what purpose the reverse running would do, at a guess it may be to remove the burr but as I say I really do not know sorry


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## Daniel2 (31 Dec 2020)

Garno said:


> In fairness to him Daniel I don't think he was replying to your query, it seemed more like adding some more valuable input to this thread.
> ....



Thank's Garno, I think you're right. I had taken it as a reply to my post.
Sorry @picsnbits


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## Torx (31 Dec 2020)

Comments from the ex-pro who taught me - won’t mention his name in case he doesn’t want me to, this was years ago when I considered one:

“All woodturning tools need a hollow grind in order for the bevel to rub properly behind the cutting edge. This is what gives the finish. Sorby know this as well, and have always known it, so if they tell you I am wrong they are talking BS! It would be ideal in a school for technicians to sharpen firmer chisels, mortice chisels etc., and plane irons, but as for woodturning tools don't even go there!! Having said that, although it would not provide the correct hollow grind, it would produce a sharp tool with a 'flat bevel' if you see what I mean, and a sharp tool is probably better than a 'I haven't got the foggiest idea how to sharpen it' tool, even though it is wrong!!!”


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## Phil Pascoe (31 Dec 2020)

Exactly what the pro turner I used to turn with said.


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## Retired (31 Dec 2020)

Hi,

It's easy spending a great deal of money buying the best sharpening system and try for the ultimate sharpness but I wonder how many don't bother sharpening at all just switching to tipped tools which I don't think have been mentioned but I see a lot of. Recently I made three tipped tools at little cost the carbide tips bought in packs of ten through eBay. Because of the winter weather I've not yet really tried them out but hope to once I can get into the workshop without being frozen.

I've been around a bit and seen many instances where this or that is best; best chisels including Japanese types very expensive planes bought more for show than actual use; whilst restoring vintage valve radios some guys insisted on buying very expensive balanced valves for amplifiers saying they could tell the difference in sound?

Sorry if I'm diverting this interesting thread but what about the skill of the turner; an experienced turner can produce a very good finish on the work straight from the tool which is ground on less than perfect equipment but a novice using a perfectly ground tool could well produce a poor finish on the work.

How many spend more time sharpening chasing the perfect cutting edge than actually doing turning; sharpening and collecting tools can become an obsession; once the work is sanded and finished who could tell what tools had been used to create it?

What do production woodturners use to sharpen their tools after all time is money to them.

I believe tipped tools stay sharp up to 40 times longer than HSS tools; I've used TC tooling for years on my lathes and in my routers but have only just got around to spending time in the workshop although the time has been cut short by our dire climate. A razor sharp HSS tool won't stay sharp for long hitting bark or knots.

Buying tipped turning tools can be expensive but making my own is interesting and not difficult at all.

Obviously the person with the money has the choice of what to buy; I'm just a tight Yorkshireman who likes to make his own tools and even machines at a fraction of new prices for something not as good. Just a thought so please don't jump all over me. 

Kind regards, Colin.






My new tipped tools; two are finished the third still needing the handle but finished after the picture was taken; What's the difference between these I made and those bought from a tool stockist apart from price? Round bright steel bar stock for shafts; 2" square blanks for handles; a bit of steel pipe for ferrules and the tips plus the enjoyment of making and using my own tools.






The three tip profiles to date but more can be added later if required. I drilled and tapped for two of the tips but just because I have the kit I brazed the third tip; I have a high speed diamond hone I made using a very cheap router and diamond cup wheel so I can even sharpen my carbide tooling. 

I have a large selection of turning tools but generally only use about three of them

Has anyone some spare warm weather I could scrounge then I can start making shavings again.


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## Phil Pascoe (31 Dec 2020)

I've just bought the same three tips, about a fiver from China.


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## Tris (31 Dec 2020)

If you have chance, take a look at Lyle Jamieson (? spelling) on YouTube, I found his video Lyle on sharpening lathe tools really clear and made sense.


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## Mark Hancock (1 Jan 2021)

Torx said:


> Comments from the ex-pro who taught me - won’t mention his name in case he doesn’t want me to, this was years ago when I considered one:
> 
> “All woodturning tools need a hollow grind in order for the bevel to rub properly behind the cutting edge. This is what gives the finish. Sorby know this as well, and have always known it, so if they tell you I am wrong they are talking BS! It would be ideal in a school for technicians to sharpen firmer chisels, mortice chisels etc., and plane irons, but as for woodturning tools don't even go there!! Having said that, although it would not provide the correct hollow grind, it would produce a sharp tool with a 'flat bevel' if you see what I mean, and a sharp tool is probably better than a 'I haven't got the foggiest idea how to sharpen it' tool, even though it is wrong!!!”


Sorry but I would disagree totally with your ex-pro. The hollow ground bevel has some disadvantages hence the reason the heel is often softened on spindle and bowl gouges. That said there is no real advantage for moving to a flat bevel but if a convex bevel is used there is a major benefit...much less likely to catch/dig in.


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## Democritus (1 Jan 2021)

Retired said:


> Hi,
> 
> It's easy spending a great deal of money buying the best sharpening system and try for the ultimate sharpness but I wonder how many don't bother sharpening at all just switching to tipped tools which I don't think have been mentioned but I see a lot of. Recently I made three tipped tools at little cost the carbide tips bought in packs of ten through eBay. Because of the winter weather I've not yet really tried them out but hope to once I can get into the workshop without being frozen.
> 
> ...


I bought three Easywood tools on the advice of a club member who only uses these carbide tip tools ‘ I can’t manage with ordinary tools’, he says.
(He’s been ClubTurner of the Year a couple of times, so he’s no mug).
They are certainly easier to use than traditional tools, but, in the long run, I think they are an expensive option. The initial outlay for the tools is over £120 each (slightly cheaper but inferior makes are available) The replacement tips cost between £15 and £20, and in my experience don’t last that long. For the cost of 3 of these tips you can buy a traditional tool made by a decent maker. You can continually sharpen the traditional tool (using whatever method suits you) and it will last a long time. I know Craft Supplies USA reckon you can resharpen carbide tips using a diamond stone, but, having tried it, I don’t think you can recreate the edge found on the new tip.
Having laid out a shed load of cash on these tools, I now only use them occasionally. I have persevered with the traditional tools -catches and all- and am now fairly confident in their use. As i’ve noted previously, I keep them sharp with the ProEdge kit.
My club friend produces some fantastic work, so I suppose that it doesn’t really matter what tools you use, provided they work for you. Certainly carbide tools have a place in turning (hollowing springs to mind) and my decision to go with traditional tools was a largely economic one, allied, I confess, to a bloody minded determination to master traditional tools.
I am comparatively new to turning and I’m sure there will many experienced turners who will disagree with me, but I have learned that, as in most crafts ,woodturning is full of different ideas. Wherever there are 3 turners gathered together, there will be 4 opinions!
Best wishes to everyone for the New Year.
D.


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## Garno (1 Jan 2021)

Democritus said:


> I bought three Easywood tools on the advice of a club member who only uses these carbide tip tools ‘ I can’t manage with ordinary tools’, he says.
> (He’s been ClubTurner of the Year a couple of times, so he’s no mug).
> They are certainly easier to use than traditional tools, but, in the long run, I think they are an expensive option. The initial outlay for the tools is over £120 each (slightly cheaper but inferior makes are available) The replacement tips cost between £15 and £20, and in my experience don’t last that long. For the cost of 3 of these tips you can buy a traditional tool made by a decent maker. You can continually sharpen the traditional tool (using whatever method suits you) and it will last a long time. I know Craft Supplies USA reckon you can resharpen carbide tips using a diamond stone, but, having tried it, I don’t think you can recreate the edge found on the new tip.
> Having laid out a shed load of cash on these tools, I now only use them occasionally. I have persevered with the traditional tools -catches and all- and am now fairly confident in their use. As i’ve noted previously, I keep them sharp with the ProEdge kit.
> ...



Not yet having tried either I will most definitely be sticking with traditional tools.

I think my reasoning behind that is that I would always be wary that the tip will fly off and embed itself somewhere on my body, no doubt they are extremely safe and my fears are unfounded but as a newcomer the last thing I want to be thinking about is the tip.

Does the tool holder jig Robert Sorby 472 Tip Holder / Cutter Holder hold the tips?


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## marcros (1 Jan 2021)

I think that that is the correct holder for carbide tips I think you also need the diamond belt. 

at some point Garno you may want to explore the carbide tools, but for now stick with traditional.


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## mikej460 (1 Jan 2021)

Yes all very interesting answers BUT..

No one has asked how on earth he persuaded Mrs G to divvy up her half of the £400 to sharpen chisels?? It makes me shudder even contemplating the prospect of asking such a thing...


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## Garno (1 Jan 2021)

mikej460 said:


> Yes all very interesting answers BUT..
> 
> No one has asked how on earth he persuaded Mrs G to divvy up her half of the £400 to sharpen chisels?? It makes me shudder even contemplating the prospect of asking such a thing...



Trust me if I end up not taking to woodturning I am in a whole lot of trouble. 
I was going to do down the road of saying how good it would be having nice sharp knives but thought better of it.
We cashed in our premium bonds, at least that way we will have something to show for our money only having won £25 in the last 15 years of having them. Also I promised to stop going on about how bad I am at woodwork


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## Robbo3 (2 Jan 2021)

As a Sorby Pro Edge owner I find that I can't get the tools as sharp as from the grinder so have reverted to the cheap jig from Ebay ( edit: seem to have got somewhat more expensive) eg
- chisel sharpening jigs for woodturning,3 jigs / tools 8944717301833 | eBay

The Pro Edge is outstanding in its ability to obtain repeat angles when using the platform but there are still 2 adjustments to make when using the gouge jig, ie, the gouge protrusion & the angle of the holder, which, as it is a copy of the Tormek gouge holder, I believe to be 60° as standard. Once set it's not often needed to be changed.
The Ebay jig also requires 2 adjustments, the gouge protrusion & the distance from the grinding wheel. The gouge holder is solid so the angle can't be adjusted. Easy way to adjust the distance is to colour the bevel of the gouge with a marker pen & rotate the wheel with the fingers to see where the marker is removed. The aim is to remove a thin line of colour from top to bottom of the bevel. Move the bottom slide in or out until the adjustment is correct.

Which ever equipment or method is used the goal is to achieve consistency so that as little metal as possible is removed to sharpen the tool.


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## Retired (2 Jan 2021)

Hi,



Democritus said:


> I bought three Easywood tools on the advice of a club member who only uses these carbide tip tools ‘ I can’t manage with ordinary tools’, he says.
> (He’s been ClubTurner of the Year a couple of times, so he’s no mug).
> They are certainly easier to use than traditional tools, but, in the long run, I think they are an expensive option. The initial outlay for the tools is over £120 each (slightly cheaper but inferior makes are available) The replacement tips cost between £15 and £20, and in my experience don’t last that long. For the cost of 3 of these tips you can buy a traditional tool made by a decent maker. You can continually sharpen the traditional tool (using whatever method suits you) and it will last a long time. I know Craft Supplies USA reckon you can resharpen carbide tips using a diamond stone, but, having tried it, I don’t think you can recreate the edge found on the new tip.
> 
> ...



£120 each for a tipped turning tool is indeed costly and tips at between £15 & £20 each these would bring tears to my pocket and I'd never pay such amounts even though I can afford to.

My home made three tipped tools in post #57 cost under £20 for the three; as Phil Pascoe correctly states 3 mixed tips can be bought from China for under a fiver; obviously not the best quality but still proper tips.

I buy steel From K Steels here in Huddersfield they are a quarter of the price of the model engineer stores but there is a minimum spend of £25 which doesn't bother me; I collect the steel having requested it be cut into 4' lengths to fit into my car. 1/2" BMS (bright mild steel) bar stock bought like this makes it cheap for a turning tool length of steel; a cheap tap wrench even a decent Eclipse can be had through eBay for £6.50. A small HSS tap and correct sized HSS tapping drill size are also cheap and readily available through eBay; an engineers 8" hand file with handle won't break the bank; as to the tool handle just looking around home or local skips can produce suitable sized hardwood to turn into handles costing nothing; ferrules can be short lengths of copper tubing or in my case steel pipe I have kicking around. Now three tipped tools are made costing very little indeed and the tap wrench; tap and twist drill with file are available for other jobs; this is how I built up an enviable workshop crammed with all manner of tools and machines; I'm tight and don't part with hard earned money buying new when I can make equally us useable tooling or machinery at a fraction of the cost.

I'm often told "I can't do that" the person saying this never will do anything; I'm told I have the skills; I have the tools; I have the workshop etc. but I wasn't born with a tool in my hands I've worked hard for a lifetime to now have the workshop I enjoy; to spend around £400 just to sharpen HSS woodturning tools which become dull after a little use is fair enough to anyone wanting to spend such money; for £400 I can do a great deal more good in my workshop expanding my range of tools whilst often enjoying making them; most of my machinery has been bought in scrap condition and rebuilt at little cost to as new; I don't think I'd like having so much money that I could buy everything brand new that I fancied; I like pottering around.

When my wonderful wife bought me the new DML all those years ago it cost us dearly because after paying the £200 new DML's were then on sale for £100 lesson well and truly learned. The DML came with three basic carbon lathe tools and I did lots of turning using these and still have them; I'm not in any way knocking anyone for spending their own money just putting another option over.

Sharp tools of any kind are a must but there are more than one way to achieve this.

I'm a keyboard warrior at the moment its too cold to play out.

Kind regards, Colin.



How much does a Sorby fingernail grinding jig cost?







My home made finger nail grinding jig made to fit my home made belt grinder.






I even turned inserts to suit different diameter tool shafts but then because I've been tight over the years I have good workshop facilities like my Lorch lathe bought as scrap and rebuilt by me.






I made my own 4" belt sander and 2" belt grinder the belts costing more than I spent making the machines; I always have plenty of offcuts in both metal and timber. I keep my eyes open for electric motors.






When I bought my Graduate lathe in scrap condition it came with lots of tooling and expensive chuck and assorted face plates; I totally rebuilt the Graduate costing little but just look at the tools that came with it seen above; to buy these tools new would have cost more than buying the Graduate and its rebuild. These tools are in addition to the many tools I already had but having such a large choice of high quality tools to hand I often only use about three different tools on a project. I'm a tool junkie and as I'm a mechanical engineer I fancied having a go using tipped tooling but definitely not paying £120 quoted for such a tool. I can make a decent job of turning using carbon; HSS and tipped tooling; I can even re-sharpen TC tipped tooling having made a high speed diamond honing machine using a cheap 1250W router; I'm old fashioned and proudly admit it; as long as I can potter in the workshop and around home I'm happy.

Wishing everyone a joyful turning 2021.


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## Democritus (2 Jan 2021)

Well done, Colin, you are clearly a proud and resourceful craftsman. It strikes me, however, that In order to make your own jigs, belt sanders, grinders etc, you must have metal working machines etc, and experience in metal working. I assume you must also have spent a lifetime in such an industry ( I recall you saying that you’d worked in a ? mine maintenance workshop) acquiring the skills to design and make tools, to strip down and refurbish machines, and to be generally self sufficient in a workshop. We don’t all have that background or the time to develop such new skills (I was a university teacher, and will be 75 this month) so we have to buy our tools, This process is littered with pitfalls, and we have to rely on advice from more experienced craftsmen, and a degree of trial and error. Sometimes it works out, sometimes it doesn’t, and I have made some expensive mistakes. However, it’s an interesting journey, and, taking the view that there are no pockets in shrouds, I just get on with it.
Best wishes for the New Year.
D


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## Blister (2 Jan 2021)

Garno said:


> Not yet having tried either I will most definitely be sticking with traditional tools.
> 
> I think my reasoning behind that is that I would always be wary that the tip will fly off and embed itself somewhere on my body, no doubt they are extremely safe and my fears are unfounded but as a newcomer the last thing I want to be thinking about is the tip.
> 
> Does the tool holder jig Robert Sorby 472 Tip Holder / Cutter Holder hold the tips?



Re The jig , read the small print 

A handy little accessory which *will accept most Robert Sorby cutters*. It avoids skinning fingers when sharpening.

You need to find out the hole size in the carbide cutter and the Sorby cutters or it may not work


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## Retired (2 Jan 2021)

Hi,

Many thanks Democritus. Yes indeed I have a lifetimes experience to fall back upon and I was taught by top class mining engineers but even before starting work at the age of 15 in the pit I was already repairing my own cycles learning by mistakes which I still do even now. My hope by posting my tipped turning tool details was that I could encourage others to consider making things; not just tooling but to look at things differently rather than through money.

Making tipped turning tools the way I described doesn't involve lots of special tools or skills or even a lot of time; it does require anyone to leave their comfort zone to have a go and once they succeed it's a stepping stone to even bigger projects. I spent the first ten years of my retirement during winter restoring vintage valve radios; I started from scratch and made many mistakes in such an highly dangerous hobby where I could be electrocuted just by lifting a "Live" chassis with both hands but if I don't know I research first especially where safety is concerned. I'm 74 this year and am looking into making a Metal Melter;



I'm self taught having wound many coils; chokes and transformers but I've never attempted this using a micro wave oven transformer. I've bought an industrial 1,950W second hand micro wave transformer to experiment with; I've already replaced the secondary winding now giving 975W output but this is too high for my needs so I've also bought a motor speed controller to see if I can bring the amps down. If not I've lost nothing much but gained an awful lot of useful knowledge.

I'm very sorry to hijack this excellent thread but now when old timers die they take their skills with them; I'm learning new skills and what's a micro wave transformer got to do with woodturning; it's to do with the way I think and look at things; I've also been subjected to an intense week long Kaizen training course; my aim is to make a machine that will braze TC tips onto tooling without recourse to gas heating; I want to tame the output from one of these transformers; I can make anything I want to make and have yet to fail; I always gain more knowledge; I don't encourage anyone to follow my lead though because many projects I do involve great danger that could easily prove fatal.

It's a long story but a friend who owns a company asked if I could help brazing TC tips onto tooling for him; his son had a go but in use the tip was thrown; he had tried ready brazed tips but they weren't up to the job he had bought 22 top quality tips. Looking at the failed tool I explained the tip had been thrown due to a "dry" joint. I brazed all 22 tips; half using brass shim the other half using bronze filler rod the only difference was that I dreamt up a way of avoiding dry joints that I've never seen done before; very simple when known but I center popped each land on the tool these throwing up a slight burr ring; this would prevent the tip coming into full contact with the tool allowing a thin layer of braze. I did the first half and posted them to be informed they were perfect so I then completed the second half and posted these. I tried using a paraffin blowlamp which failed it wasn't hot enough so I then used my Map gas torch which did the job but used a lot of gas hence having seen the Metal Melter on YouTube I hope to make a dedicated brazing machine. I'm not too old to try new ideas and I've also got a second project lined up involving making an industrial induction heater. I'm not taught on electrics but I am taught regarding safety.

Having just one practical skill is so useful in that it can then be transferred to so many other subjects; I hope I never stop learning or experimenting.

In 2020 I learnt two new skills; TIG welding aluminium; metal spinning and a bit of panel beating making a new petrol tank for a mower I fully restored.

Sorry once again for hijacking this thread and no offence meant in the least to anyone; I love learning and getting my hands dirty.

Kind regards, Colin.






Roughing out the tip "land" using hacksaw then hand filing.






My idea to center pop the lands and it worked perfectly.






Tool bodies being prepared for accepting the TC tips. No fancy machinery to make life easy just relying on hand skills.






A piece of brass shim in place; flux was added both faces before locating the TC tip and heating it to cherry red.






Not pretty but once cleaned up they looked a lot better.






New skills involving Tig welding aluminium and panel beating; old steel leaking petrol tank top right new home made aluminium tanks left; I found learning Tig welding to be a lot more difficult than I imagined after all I've been arc welding for almost 60 years.






Metal spinning on my Graduate lathe; another very difficult skill to learn and also dangerous. This is one of two petrol tank ends seen in the above picture of the round tank.

The only sure way to fail at anything is not to have a go. I've rambled on enough and hope I'm not boring anyone.


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## Garno (2 Jan 2021)

Blister said:


> Re The jig , read the small print
> 
> A handy little accessory which *will accept most Robert Sorby cutters*. It avoids skinning fingers when sharpening.
> 
> You need to find out the hole size in the carbide cutter and the Sorby cutters or it may not work



I think that is one of the very few items that has not yet reached my "Oh I would like one of those and can find a good use for it" list, everything else I could use


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## Garno (2 Jan 2021)

Retired said:


> Hi,
> 
> Many thanks Democritus. Yes indeed I have a lifetimes experience to fall back upon and I was taught by top class mining engineers but even before starting work at the age of 15 in the pit I was already repairing my own cycles learning by mistakes which I still do even now. My hope by posting my tipped turning tool details was that I could encourage others to consider making things; not just tooling but to look at things differently rather than through money.
> 
> ...




I genuinely envy your skill set.


----------



## Adam Pinson (2 Jan 2021)

Daniel2 said:


> Yes, but my question was not regarding the relative merits betwixt hollow and flat grinding.
> It was specifically regarding Axminster's reverse running belt linisher.
> 
> Axminster Trade Ultimate Edge Reverse Running Sharpening System
> ...


Maybe if things all go to [email protected] one doesn't get peppered with shrapnel.


----------



## Democritus (2 Jan 2021)

Colin
Thanks for the information concerning your metal suppliers. There is a branch of K Steel in Rawtenstall, close to where I live. When next I need any metal (I do from time to time), I , and anyone else on UKWorkshop who lives In the North West , will know where to go.
D.


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## Phil Pascoe (2 Jan 2021)

Adam Pinson said:


> Maybe if things all go to [email protected] one doesn't get peppered with shrapnel.


If all things go [email protected] there's no dig in and ripped belt.


----------



## JonG (2 Jan 2021)

I bought the pro edge about a month ago - no learning curve, easy to use, cheap to add to. A big +1 from me.


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## pryere (2 Jan 2021)

A big can of interesting worms....I enjoyed Collins contribution very much.


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## Robbo3 (3 Jan 2021)

Thank you Colin.
From the other end of the scale, home made, Ebay, Sorby & Wolverine gouge holders.






The first 2 require a washer sandwiched on top of the gouge to centralise it & keep it level.
The Wolverine is designed for 6" grinders & had to be lengthened when I acquired an 8" grinder


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## Garno (4 Jan 2021)

Pulled the trigger today and ordered this Robert Sorby ProEdge Plus Deluxe Special Edition Package Deal I also ordered the large knife Jig and small knife holder, they will not be in stock though for a few weeks. I ordered over the phone and have to say the staff (or at least those I spoke to) were top notch and it was clear they knew the products they were selling. I will say it was a pleasure dealing with them made more so by the fact they threw in 2 trizact belts free of charge so I will have the full range, Oh happy days


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## Retired (5 Jan 2021)

Hi,



Democritus said:


> Colin
> Thanks for the information concerning your metal suppliers. There is a branch of K Steel in Rawtenstall, close to where I live. When next I need any metal (I do from time to time), I , and anyone else on UKWorkshop who lives In the North West , will know where to go.
> D.



You're most welcome. K Steels are excellent and you might also be interested in another steel supplier I've used and can highly recommend;

Steel from Stock to Meet any Fabrication Specifications - F H Brundle

Buying steel in small quantity through places like model engineers suppliers and eBay is expensive; both K Steels and Brundles are much more affordable and even with a minimum order why not stock up as I do. 

Here in Huddersfield we still have a couple of scrapyards the largest being Schofield's

Home - Schofield

A while ago I wanted to use steel for decking framework and to buy new would have cost a fortune so I headed to Schofield's with tape measure wearing lots of safety kit like helmet; safety shoes; Hi Vis waistcoat and rigger gloves; I popped into reception and asked for permission to look around which was granted; I selected long lengths of assorted heavy steel sections and these were pulled out on a fork truck and taken to the weighbridge to be weighed. All this scrap is sold on weight. Schofield's don't deliver but I was very fortunate indeed; a customer with a pickup truck was just dropping off a load of scrap and was happy to deliver the steel to our bungalow it only cost about £30 cash; the heavy steel only cost £120 so what a bargain. It's a case of being flexible and working with what's available; the steel was rusty and had a few drilled holes in it but at the price I wasn't going to grumble; I removed the rust and used a liquid to treat the cleaned steel; I forget the name of the liquid and it's down in the workshop but I can post details later; this liquid kills rust and it's brilliant. 






The new decking steel I bought from Schofield's; it looks very rough; has a number of drilled holes and end brackets welded to it; it's covered in rust and old paint but I knew what I wanted and this is perfect at very cheap price compared to buying brand new; I don't mind work or dirty hands.






Cleaning the steel using 9" angle grinder and paint stripper.






Here's brand new steel from Brundle's ready to be welded for the new decking railings.






The bespoke railing posts made to my design and special sizes.






The new steelwork installed; it's heavy; I used a winch and ladder in order to raise the long heavy channel sections; the posts are incredibly heavy being very thick steel. This old steel looks no different to new steel once its fettled and painted as seen here; the new railings still need painting. I also made the side hung garage now workshop doors.






Just the handrail to attach to complete the job. I gave the bungalow a comprehensive makeover both interior and exterior; the paint used is expensive Benjamin Moore; this paint was applied over four years ago and still looks like new. I also dug out using pick and shovel tons of wet sticky clay removing steps then added the 42' long sloping pathway making access to the bungalow rear very easy I dug out more tons of clay to the rear of the bungalow. After 33 years of nothing but hard graft our bungalow is now immaculate as are the gardens. The decking boards are scaffolding planks.

Kind regards, Colin.


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## NOTTNICK (7 Jan 2021)

Garno said:


> I am possibly opening a can of worms here but that honestly is not my intention.
> 
> Being new to woodturning my wonderful other half or formally known as Mrs G got me the book Woodturning: A Foundation Course (With DVD): Amazon.co.uk: Keith Rowley: 9781784940638: Books I am still reading through it and have noticed a common theme running through it, that is to buy the best you can afford (Chuck, chisels, etc etc) and to keep your chisels both clean and sharp. He basically says the difference between a semi blunt and a sharp chisel are like chalk and cheese, he does actually say that many a new comer has been put off turning due to the chisels not being sharp enough.
> 
> ...


 I love my Pro Edge.


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## flh801978 (16 Jan 2021)

So Gary (Garno) have you got it yet and what do you think?


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## Garno (26 Jan 2021)

flh801978 said:


> So Gary (Garno) have you got it yet and what do you think?



Yes I have it.
Got to say it does look well built and is a lot heavier than I expected.
Still waiting on the knife jigs.
I am still sorting the shed out and have been in bed for the past week.
Once the shed is done I will test it out


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