# Metal lathe? Peterborough area?



## pe2dave (12 Apr 2022)

Help wanted please.
Bought this trammel bar, one of the spikes is missing?
46mm long, 5.5mm diameter. Guessing imperial thread?
I'd like to make it complete, if anyone could turn this, then has a die to match?

TiA Dave


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## Inspector (12 Apr 2022)

If you can't find someone to make the point for you look for a bolt that fits the thread that isn't threaded all the way to the head. Cut the head off and chuck it in a drill and present the spinning bolt to a bench grinder. It won't take long to shape it. You can clean up the marks with sandpaper.

Pete


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## pe2dave (12 Apr 2022)

Inspector said:


> If you can't find someone to make the point for you look for a bolt that fits the thread that isn't threaded all the way to the head. Cut the head off and chuck it in a drill and present the spinning bolt to a bench grinder. It won't take long to shape it. You can clean up the marks with sandpaper.
> 
> Pete


Good idea... but where to find imperial bolts Pete! Sure I don't have any lieing around.


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## Inspector (12 Apr 2022)

You're asking a guy in a land that won't let go of the imperial system.  I suspect that given the 5.5mm diameter = .216" = No12 fastener size it would be quite hard to find even here as it isn't a common size. If you can determine what the thread actually is I have no problem sending you some if I can find them. https://www.icscuttingtools.com/pdfs/screwthread-guide.pdf I checked my old tap and die set and only have the 12-24UNC size and I have never used them in the almost 45 years I've had the set. Chronos have the dies if you can find the silver steel to make one. 

I am curious as to why the upper one has the slot shaped to kick it over on an angle. Is it to trail the point when scribing circles on sheet metal?

Pete


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## pe2dave (12 Apr 2022)

@Inspector guessing the thread is ...?(help anyone) some older imperial UK thread. I don't have the tools
to measure pitch etc. 
The brass inserts are not quite in 'square'. I've slimmed it down, now fits. Except. I now need a pencil
<7mm diameter, a 'slim' golfers pencil.
UNC? Dunno. Whitworth sounds much more likely (but a guess). British Standard Whitworth - Wikipedia

I'll pull the other one and *try* to measure pitch and depth.


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## Ttrees (12 Apr 2022)

pe2dave said:


> @Inspector guessing the thread is ...?(help anyone) some older imperial UK thread. I don't have the tools
> to measure pitch etc.
> The brass inserts are not quite in 'square'. I've slimmed it down, now fits. Except. I now need a pencil
> <7mm diameter, a 'slim' golfers pencil.
> ...


Should this be a one time deal, and you decide to try as Inspector suggests, (the finer wheel works much nicer)
Might it be a sloppy enough fit for a metric thread to work...
worth trying again if not happening, with a damaged thread re chased with a cheap tap and die set
from the middle isle of liddles
(which includes a pitch gauge)


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## pe2dave (12 Apr 2022)

Tks @Ttrees Lidles yet again!
I have some metric taps, no dies though. 5.5mm? Try an M6die?


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## pe2dave (12 Apr 2022)

Unscrewed.
Point on M6 nut, slightly sloppy fit.
M6 bolt into brass, no joy.
How easy to force an M6 tap into the thread? Or will that b... it up?
========= 
Edit
point thread diameter, 5.5mm
M6 thread diameter 5.85mm
Quite a bit to'force'?


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## Ttrees (12 Apr 2022)

@pe2dave
I ain't one to talk about tapping or die-ing threads as my track record isn't great on strange materials,
not to mention cast isn't something I've ever attempeted to tap.

Having bought a bag of brass threaded inserts from the states for converting unservicable guitars with doweled in neck joint to bolt on neck (have some in the workshop to check, IIRC the same size)
Little did I know it would be difficult to get nice allen head bolts for the job, so a case of...
if you've only got a hammer, everything looks like a nail.
Not being used to any engineering toolery, and being ignorant in my youth, I used some blackened hard bolts to convert them into metric, didn't mind wrecking one, worked well in the end.

It was certainly a bit of effort to do, can't say if a tap woulda been better or not,
and might be a bad idea on something cast, should it crack.
(my inserts were machined from bar stock)
I was only suggesting should you be able to see if a metric thread could possibly be a nice fit without a wrench.


Tom


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## TFrench (12 Apr 2022)

I'm near Leicester Dave, be happy to try to help you.
Tom


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## Dave T (13 Apr 2022)

If you are happy to put it in the post to Essex, I can do this for you. Send me a pm for the address.
Dave T


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## pe2dave (13 Apr 2022)

A new thread?
;-)
This youtube video helped me understand the differences and how to measure threads. UK bias perhaps.
I've tapped into it. Dieing to get a thread gauge
(Sorry, couldn't resist)


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## John Hall (13 Apr 2022)

If 6mm is a sloppy fit, it’s probably 1/4” BSF….BSF…British Standard Fine, and BSW..British Standard Whitworth are the common imperial threads used on tools and engineering along with BA…British Association, UNF and UNC…Unified national fine and course….BSF bolts are easy to get hold of on EBay, but you’d need to confirm it first….Just cut the part threaded bolt to length, put the threaded end in a drill chuck and turn the point against a grinder or file


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## J-G (13 Apr 2022)

pe2dave said:


> This youtube video helped me understand the differences and how to measure threads. UK bias perhaps.


Overall that might be useful to someone with some existing knowledge (so that they can ignore the obvious errors) but there are a few bad referencies - close to the end he suggests that BSPT & NTP threads are interchangable !!! He does then say that the flank angles are different but doesn't make it clear that that fact alone makes them non-interchangable. Even PTFE tape wouldn't help to make a gas-tight joint with such a marriage.

On the difference between Whit & Unified or Metric he made no reference at all to the easiest way to decide which you have - - - BSW, BSF etc., as well as having a 55° form, also have rounded crests & roots whereas Unified & Metric, with 60° form, have flat crests & roots.


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## pe2dave (14 Apr 2022)

Dave T said:


> If you are happy to put it in the post to Essex, I can do this for you. Send me a pm for the address.
> Dave T


Thanks for the kind offer Dave.
I may take you up on it!
I need 5.5mm mild steel (the only stuff I have is 1mm too big, and it's hard work taking it down on a pillar drill / file).
I've made an informed guess it is UNC 12 (or UNC 7/32) from diameter / thread count.
I've yet to decide if I'll be bored to tears putting a point on it + if it's worth buying a die + diestock!
Option (bit ashamed) epoxy in some smaller stuff and 'point' that.

I'll pm you if I may.


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## John Hall (14 Apr 2022)

Looking closer at the last pic I would say it’s BSW…and probably 1/4” if the 6mm is a sloppy fit. UNC would fit…


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## pe2dave (14 Apr 2022)

John Hall said:


> Looking closer at the last pic I would say it’s BSW…and probably 1/4” if the 6mm is a sloppy fit. UNC would fit…


Possible John. 
24 tpi, 5.5mm diameter body of the point?
BSW 24 tpi 7/32matches though. Tapping drill is 4.5mm, seems to match?
(Why is nothing 'easy'  )


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## J-G (14 Apr 2022)

pe2dave said:


> Possible John.
> 24 tpi, 5.5mm diameter body of the point?
> BSW 24 tpi 7/32matches though. Tapping drill is 4.5mm, seems to match?
> (Why is nothing 'easy'  )


There is no 7/32 BSW in the BS 84 : 1956 standard -- There is a 'non prefered' 7/32 dia. in the BSF series at 28tpi.

That does not mean that the thread couldn't be 7/32 x 24 Whitworth - it's just not BSW!

Why do you state the diameter in mm but the pitch in TPI ?? Is the diameter *of the thread* really 5.5mm? (0.21653") or is it 0.216"? - which might indicate a N° 12 UNC which *is* 24 tpi even though 0.216" is the nominal dia. in fact a N° 12 UNC thread is more likely to be smaller than 0.216". 

7/32" is in fact 0.21875" so it would be reasonable to assume that this is nominally a 7/32" thread but at 24 tpi would be a non-standard.

It seems unlikely that it is a metric thread since the rare occsion that 5.5mm dia. is listed in a 'Standard' it is only in the Fine pitch series at 0.5mm - 24 tpi could be a mis-measure of 1mm but never 0.5mm!

At 24 tpi it also cannot be 1/4" Whit. form - BSW is 20 tpi and BSF is 26 tpi - and 5.5mm OD would be very much undersize.


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## pe2dave (14 Apr 2022)

J-G said:


> There is no 7/32 BSW in the BS 84 : 1956 standard -- There is a 'non prefered' 7/32 dia. in the BSF series at 28tpi.


There is on the chart I have.




> That does not mean that the thread couldn't be 7/32 x 24 Whitworth - it's just not BSW!


OK. Understood. (guess) it's 50-100 yo?



> Why do you state the diameter in mm but the pitch in TPI ??


I counted the tpi... I can't count in mm  I measured in mm.




> Is the diameter *of the thread* really 5.5mm? (0.21653") or is it 0.216"? - which might indicate a N° 12 UNC which *is* 24 tpi even though 0.216" is the nominal dia. in fact a N° 12 UNC thread is more likely to be smaller than 0.216".


Yes, according to my micrometer. 
#12 UNC was my first guess. I lie. 7/32 UNC was my first guess. Since tracytools don't do that size, I settled on #12
as the best guess so far.


> 7/32" is in fact 0.21875" so it would be reasonable to assume that this is nominally a 7/32" thread but at 24 tpi would be a non-standard.


Not impossible?


> It seems unlikely that it is a metric thread since the rare occsion that 5.5mm dia. is listed in a 'Standard' it is only in the Fine pitch series at 0.5mm - 24 tpi could be a mis-measure of 1mm but never 0.5mm!


I agree. Age would tend to agree with that conclusion (apart from which I can't measure the pitch accurately enough)



> At 24 tpi it also cannot be 1/4" Whit. form - BSW is 20 tpi and BSF is 26 tpi - and 5.5mm OD would be very much undersize.


I didn't suggest it might be (according to the table I have).
YMMV

Dave


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## J-G (14 Apr 2022)

pe2dave said:


> I didn't suggest it might be (according to the table I have).
> YMMV


No - John Hall did (Reply #16) I just tacked that on the end as an afterthought 



pe2dave said:


> (apart from which I can't measure the pitch accurately enough)


Do you not have a 'Thread Pitch Gauge' ? The difference between 24tpi and 1mm is palpable with well made sets. If you have one such as shown in the referenced Video then maybe not as much


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## pe2dave (14 Apr 2022)

J-G said:


> Do you not have a 'Thread Pitch Gauge' ? The difference between 24tpi and 1mm is palpable with well made sets. If you have one such as shown in the referenced Video then maybe not as much



On order, but not yet! 
And yes, the one in the video!
I'm guessing you have a better recommendation?


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## pe2dave (14 Apr 2022)

ps. How to tell a 55 deg thread from 60?
BSW from UNC?


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## J-G (14 Apr 2022)

pe2dave said:


> ps. How to tell a 55 deg thread from 60?
> BSW from UNC?


The easy way - though not fool-proof - would be to see whether the thread-form had a rounded or flat crest/root. A Whitworth Form (55°) will (if fully formed) have a rounded crest and root - but if the OD was reduced then it could have a flat. The UNC (60°) *could* have a rounded root but will always have a flat crest -- as long as it hasn't been worn. So much depends upon how and where it has been used.

A good quality Thread Pitch Gauge will have both Whit. , Unified and Metric thread form gauges as separate 'leaves' -- the one shown in the video (as explained by the presenter) _*appears*_ to have Imperial (TPI) legends on one side of each leaf and Metric (Pitch) legends on the other. If that is so, then the thread angle will probably be neither 55° or 60° so would only be useful to check an approximation of the TPI or Pitch, not to determine Whit. , Unified or Metric. I can't point you to a supplier of quality gauges though.

The best way would be to get access to a 50:1 shadowgraph so that you can measure the image 

I'm in the process of writing a computer program that calculates the micrometer reading over 'three wires' when measuring the effective diameter of many threads. It also shows the form and various other features which might be useful. If you would like to see (test) a copy send me a PM with your e-mail address.


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## pe2dave (14 Apr 2022)

J-G said:


> The easy way - though not fool-proof - would be to see whether the thread-form had a rounded or flat crest/root. A Whitworth Form (55°) will (if fully formed) have a rounded crest and root - but if the OD was reduced then it could have a flat. The UNC (60°) *could* have a rounded root but will always have a flat crest -- as long as it hasn't been worn. So much depends upon how and where it has been used.
> 
> A good quality Thread Pitch Gauge will have both Whit. , Unified and Metric thread form gauges as separate 'leaves' -- the one shown in the video (as explained by the presenter) _*appears*_ to have Imperial (TPI) legends on one side of each leaf and Metric (Pitch) legends on the other. If that is so, then the thread angle will probably be neither 55° or 60° so would only be useful to check an approximation of the TPI or Pitch, not to determine Whit. , Unified or Metric. I can't point you to a supplier of quality gauges though.
> 
> ...


pm sent.






I guess age hasn't helped. I can't tell from a magnifying glass whether crowns have flat / rounded? Best guess they are sharp (wear?...)


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## J-G (14 Apr 2022)

There is insufficient contrast between the thread & the background for me to be certain about the thread-form but it does look most likely to be Unified. 

Enlarging the image in Photoshop and 'scaling' it seems that the OD is 5.5mm or 0.2165".
Using the same image, the 'pitch' (over 6 crests) works out at 0.04179" which is 23.92 TPI so I'm happy with calling that 24 ! 

In which case N° 12 UNC does seem the most likely fit.

PM seen & e-mail with program details sent.


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## clogs (15 Apr 2022)

out of interest "More and Wright" makes/made good thread gauges, do they still excist...?
guess there will be others...
I have two sets.....
Dread to think of the cost of new....2 of my treasured tools....
hope it all works out for u....
In my time came across some hand made threaded nut's n bolts...
(old machines).....


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## pe2dave (15 Apr 2022)

J-G said:


> There is insufficient contrast between the thread & the background for me to be certain about the thread-form but it does look most likely to be Unified.
> 
> Enlarging the image in Photoshop and 'scaling' it seems that the OD is 5.5mm or 0.2165".
> Using the same image, the 'pitch' (over 6 crests) works out at 0.04179" which is 23.92 TPI so I'm happy with calling that 24 !
> ...



I nearly agree. One table I have has UNC #12 as 28 tpi, 7/32 as 24 tpi.
Another (Hague fasteners) shows 7/32 as BSW with OD of 5.56mm.

I tend to agree, UNC #12, so the device is American. 

Thanks.


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## pe2dave (15 Apr 2022)

For anyone else wishing to investigate, I found this table reasonably clear. From tpi + diameter, gets
a fair guess at a thread.


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## Julie (15 Apr 2022)

pe2dave said:


> A new thread?
> ;-)
> This youtube video helped me understand the differences and how to measure threads. UK bias perhaps.
> I've tapped into it. Dieing to get a thread gauge
> (Sorry, couldn't resist)


Very Droll as Sir Humphrey would say!, you seem to have a Thorney issue here, unfortunately I don't have a metal working lathe either, something I have often regretted, but you can't afford everything for your workshop, I have had success in the past making my own bits and pieces using a drill mounted horizontally and a good file to reduce the diameter, then re-threading with a suitable Die, so I think in the absence of suitable machine tool I would try the same, I have also do this with a spinning workpiece against a bench grinder with a finer grit wheel as the other correspondent suggested, I hope this helps  Julie


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## Phill05 (15 Apr 2022)

Dave take an image of the treads with a white paper back ground and I can put it in my software and tell you what it is, not long ago did the same for Stig and he got sorted.
If you want a taper pin making no problem I can do it just for the cost of postage.


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## Phill05 (15 Apr 2022)

clogs said:


> out of interest "More and Wright" makes/made good thread gauges, do they still excist...?



Yes they still excist I think at last count I have about six sets.


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## pe2dave (15 Apr 2022)

Phill05 said:


> Dave take an image of the treads with a white paper back ground and I can put it in my software and tell you what it is, not long ago did the same for Stig and he got sorted.
> If you want a taper pin making no problem I can do it just for the cost of postage.


I / we are almost convinced it is number 12 UNC. tpi definitely 24. OD of threads (digital micro's 'change') but I'd be happier agreeing to 5.486 (#12) rather than 5.556 (BSW 7/32... but 'in brackets possibly OOD or something)
Thanks for the kind offer Phil.


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## pe2dave (15 Apr 2022)

<sigh/> Follow on. Dies? Tracytools shows me a die.... but fails to spec the outside diameter?
How are dies 'grouped' with die holders please? Anyone know?
Again Tracytools has lots to offer but... (odd?) they don't work on Good Friday!


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## pe2dave (15 Apr 2022)

Julie said:


> I have had success in the past making my own bits and pieces using a drill mounted horizontally and a good file to reduce the diameter, then re-threading with a suitable Die, so I think in the absence of suitable machine tool I would try the same, I have also do this with a spinning workpiece against a bench grinder with a finer grit wheel as the other correspondent suggested, I hope this helps  Julie


Grinder, with bar in hand held drill?
Mmmm You still have 10 fingers Julie?
Efficient but risky.....
I think I shall take up one of the kind offers of adding a point the easy way, on a 'real' lathe.
I guess I could have done it on my ww lathe, swapped out for a p/t, swapped out for working area!
C'est la vie.


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## TFrench (15 Apr 2022)

I've "turned" a point for a scribe before by chucking the silver steel in a battery drill and running it on a linisher. Worked a treat.


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## J-G (15 Apr 2022)

pe2dave said:


> I nearly agree. One table I have has UNC #12 as 28 tpi,


#12 x 28 tpi is UN*F *not UNC - a different 'Standard'


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## Inspector (15 Apr 2022)

pe2dave said:


> For anyone else wishing to investigate, I found this table reasonably clear. From tpi + diameter, gets
> a fair guess at a thread.



That was the same table I linked on post 4 and easier to read without the background. Just goes to show companies use information from many sources.

Pete


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## J-G (15 Apr 2022)

pe2dave said:


> <sigh/> Follow on. Dies? Tracytools shows me a die.... but fails to spec the outside diameter?
> How are dies 'grouped' with die holders please? Anyone know?
> Again Tracytools has lots to offer but... (odd?) they don't work on Good Friday!


I'm somewhat surprised at that, Tracy are usually very good but I've just checked a number of suppliers and even my (normally) trusty Machinery's Handbook and can find very little information on Thread size - Die-Stock size combinations. From experience, I would expect a 7/32" or #12 die to come as a 13/16 OD but that's not guaranteed.

Presumably, if you are 'into' engineering and use Dies then the chances are that you will have a range of Die-Stocks on hand. Personally I have 2 - 13/16", 3 - 1" and a 1/3/8" 

The staff at Tracy will certainly be able and very willing to advise you. If you are seriously concidering making your own new trammel 'point' and you haven't previously used Threading Dies, then make sure that you get a 'split' Die and don't try to go to finished size in one pass, nor think that you don't need to support the Die-stock square on to the workpiece -- ie. with something in the chuck of a pillar drill to keep it 'Square'.


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## ChaiLatte (15 Apr 2022)

As this is primarily a wood-butchery forum, might I suggest a time honoured method borrowed from that discipline?

Take a piece of 6mm metal rod. Chuck up in a cordless drill. Apply sandpaper until it is fits the hole in the brass. Reverse in chuck. Apply sandpaper until the necessary degree of pointyness is achieved. Apply glue (called Loctite in the metalworking trade). Get on with the rest of your life.


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## pe2dave (15 Apr 2022)

ChaiLatte said:


> As this is primarily a wood-butchery forum, might I suggest a time honoured method borrowed from that discipline?
> 
> Take a piece of 6mm metal rod. Chuck up in a cordless drill. Apply sandpaper until it is fits the hole in the brass. Reverse in chuck. Apply sandpaper until the necessary degree of pointyness is achieved. Apply glue (called Loctite in the metalworking trade). Get on with the rest of your life.


I've only got a couple dozen sheets of sandpaper...
Tried a file in similar setup, and took off a good .....5mm after 20 mins!
Plucking up courage to follow @Julie example next ;-)
(or wait to hear from Dave)


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## pe2dave (16 Apr 2022)

J-G said:


> If you are seriously concidering making your own new trammel 'point' and you haven't previously used Threading Dies, then make sure that you get a 'split' Die and don't try to go to finished size in one pass, nor think that you don't need to support the Die-stock square on to the workpiece -- ie. with something in the chuck of a pillar drill to keep it 'Square'.



Beging too fussy? 60 years ago I was shown how to use a tap and die (metalwork at school).
As (all of) those on youtube, I simply took care to keep it square?
I'm guessing you mean die holder on drillpress bed, clamped? Bar in drill chuck? To get it
started square? I can see the logic... Is it OTT?


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## Ttrees (16 Apr 2022)

Not having a metal lathe to get things perfect, nor have partially cut my cheapie solid liddle ones
to make a split die, I can say it's not easy.
Not even with a decent lead in, and tried a few times experimenting with various bevels and still ended up with pathetic results, as I needed to reduce overall thickness beyond what it should be.

Maybe this would be a different story with good dies, or even a cut in the cheapie solid ones.
I'll definitely be attempting this should I need a thread which doesn't need to be perfect, otherwise I will likely cough up and go to my local to get some nice ones.


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## J-G (16 Apr 2022)

pe2dave said:


> Beging too fussy? 60 years ago I was shown how to use a tap and die (metalwork at school).
> As (all of) those on youtube, I simply took care to keep it square?
> I'm guessing you mean die holder on drillpress bed, clamped? Bar in drill chuck? To get it
> started square? I can see the logic... Is it OTT?


Apologies, Dave. From other conversation I have mis-understood your level of competence 

No, I wouldn't put the Die-Stock on the drill press bed, I'd clamp the work in a vice, (or collet chuck), put a small bar with an enlarged flat 'head' in the drill-chuck and use that to press down upon the Die-Stock.

This is not just to 'start' the thread, I'd keep the support pressure on until the workpiece came in contact with the bar. 'Drunken' threads are too easy to make so I don't think this method is OTT.


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## J-G (16 Apr 2022)

Ttrees said:


> Maybe this would be a different story with good dies, or even a cut in the cheapie solid ones.


Being 'Solid' doesn't (necessarily) mean 'cheapie' - I have both solid and split dies for all the threads that I generally need (all HSS). The solid version is used for the final cut which will be 'to size'. The split versions I use for the first, second ..... however many cuts I feel necessary - (it will vary according to the thread size and material). This is primarily because it is possible to adjust a split die to cut 'under-size' - been there, done that!

Oh yes, I have converted 'solid' to 'split' with a Dremel and thin abrasive disc.


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## pe2dave (16 Apr 2022)

This is primarily because it is possible to adjust a split die to cut 'under-size' - been there, done that!

Oh yes, I have converted 'solid' to 'split' with a Dremel and thin abrasive disc.
[/QUOTE]
So why are dies not sold as per taps? First, second and bottom tap?
So open, half closed, tight to emulate first second and bottom cut? 
Sort of makes sense


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## J-G (16 Apr 2022)

pe2dave said:


> J-G said:
> 
> 
> > This is primarily because it is possible to adjust a split die to cut 'under-size' - been there, done that!
> ...


Economics!

The boot should be on the other foot Dave . . . "Why aren't 'Adjustable' Taps made"?

Looked at like that, I suggest that the answer is obvious.

It's easy (ish) to make a Die which can be adjusted (within small limits) and therefore use *one* die to cut multiple diameters (1st, 2nd...) at the cost of *one* item. Squeezing a ring from the outside will reduce the diameter consistently along its length.

To do the same with a Tap is vastly more complex - I believe they do exist for large pipe threads (though I've never seen one) - they would need to have pressure applied from both ends via some sort of 'cone' arangement. The cost of making three 'solid' Taps will be lower than the cost of producing an adjustable version. Get below something like 25mm Ø (1") and the physical improbability of manufacture would be the guiding principle.


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## John Hall (17 Apr 2022)

This has all got unnecessarily complicated….the cost of buying a die etc to do the job would be more than value of the part, and probably never used again.
I would be happy to make you one if you send me the parts you have.
I have all the taps, dies, bolts etc to make you one…
cheers john
Manchester..


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## pe2dave (17 Apr 2022)

John Hall said:


> This has all got unnecessarily complicated….the cost of buying a die etc to do the job would be more than value of the part, and probably never used again.
> I would be happy to make you one if you send me the parts you have.
> I have all the taps, dies, bolts etc to make you one…
> cheers john
> Manchester..


Quite agree John, hence the request.
Do you have a #12 UNC die too? That seems to be the oddity?


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## John Hall (17 Apr 2022)

Yes I have all the tools required…I think it is more likely to be BSW, but I have both..
UNF and UNC were not usually used for tools unless it’s American..


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## pe2dave (17 Apr 2022)

John Hall said:


> Yes I have all the tools required…I think it is more likely to be BSW, but I have both..
> UNF and UNC were not usually used for tools unless it’s American..


Which I think it is (American) Sent a pm John.


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## pe2dave (22 Apr 2022)

John Hall said:


> Yes I have all the tools required…I think it is more likely to be BSW, but I have both..
> UNF and UNC were not usually used for tools unless it’s American..



Many thanks to John, I now have a working beam compass (points or super-slim pencil - thanks again John).
IMHO very elegant in polished brass!
Up to 56" diameter - more than I'll likely want!


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## Inspector (22 Apr 2022)

Compass looks great. John what did the thread end up being? 

Pete


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## John Hall (22 Apr 2022)

Sorry…I’d have to kill you…
7/32” BSW….which I had….
A. 12-24 UNC may have fit, but thats one I haven’t got..
Cheers Pete..


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## Inspector (22 Apr 2022)

Thanks for the quick and merciful death. ⚰

The recently departed
Pete


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