# Help! Untreated Exterior Oak door suggested treatment?



## fluffflinger (24 Oct 2012)

Just a quickie, what are your suggestions for finishing an exterior Oak door?


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## o0dunk0o (24 Oct 2012)

I've always used yacht varnish, preferably Epifanes.


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## fluffflinger (24 Oct 2012)

Thanks and I have nothing against yacht varnish on yachts (yes I do own a sable brush or three) but am hoping for this job to achieve a more natural finish.


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## hammer n nails (24 Oct 2012)

try Danish oil


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## Hudson Carpentry (24 Oct 2012)

+1 for danish also.


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## AndyT (24 Oct 2012)

Danish oil is not very durable on exterior oak in my experience - I made a garden chair a few years ago and put Danish oil on it. It's ok-ish on the vertical surfaces but on anywhere that stays at all wet the finish has all disappeared. 

There's a much more expensive anti-UV exterior oil in the Osmo range that has been recommended on here since; that could be worth a search for.


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## Jelly (24 Oct 2012)

I was going to (and still am) going to suggest Protim preservative followed a 48 hour drying cycle and the finish of your choice, it's intended for exterior joinery up to exposure class 3b (exposed, no surface coating), so I imagine it would do the trick here... However you'd actually have to take it to someone who's operating a protimisation tank to get it done.

I've been trying to find who your nearest operator would be, but it's not something that's widely advertised; if you wanted to pursue it as an option, I think you'd need to ask Osmose UK (the treatment manufacturer) to put you on to one of their customers.


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## o0dunk0o (24 Oct 2012)

For an oiled finish I've either used Varnol made by Gjoco or Deks Olje D1.

My philosophy has always been if it lasts for a year or 2 on a boat then it'll last for 5- 10 years on a house......... so far I've not been wrong


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## condeesteso (24 Oct 2012)

I think this depends on the degree of exposure - aspect (north, south) weather protection from direct water etc.
It also depends a bit what you started with - kiln dried will certainly expand no matter what.
I agree generally, Danish oil has failed me in these applications, but I have been pleasantly surprised by Tung Oil - hardens off quite quickly and enough goes in to promote stability of the woods.
I have felt that coating will be wrong - I mean varnishes (no matter how good) because you have a moving wood, and an immovable coat. My approach has been to use penetrative oil-based finishes, so the 2 can move as one. I don't have an external door in need just now, but consider Tru-Oil - a polymerised blend of oils used for many years on gunstocks (think rain, etc).
If I was about to do a hardwood external door just now, I would go for that I think... nice natural finish too [but can build to a shine with more coats].

Actually, another proven favourite is Sadolins Classic (green tin, stay away from Extra, nasty high-build clag) - if oak go for 'natural' colour - I have it on workshop doors and windows... really very good indeed, a quick wipe once every 2 years, job done.
I have used Deck Olje before too but not outside... the name implies it might be fine though :lol:


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## o0dunk0o (24 Oct 2012)

condeesteso":3pnw455g said:


> I have felt that coating will be wrong - I mean varnishes (no matter how good) because you have a moving wood, and an immovable coat.



A good quality varnish (even a high gloss one) isn't an immovable coat, I've varnished many boats new and old built with kiln dried and air dried timber without any issue.


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## fluffflinger (24 Oct 2012)

Thanks guys, as ever very useful.

I'm with Douglas as I've always preferred oil finishes but the posts so far have certainly introduced a few products new to me. I especially like the look of the Deks Olje and for simplicity of application from a trusted source a couple of coats of the Osmo Exterior Oil looks good too. 

Thanks again and if there is any more please keep them coming.


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## andersonec (25 Oct 2012)

Osmo UV protecion oil.

http://www.osmouk.com/previewpage.cfm?b ... 7&page=122


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## Paul Chapman (26 Oct 2012)

condeesteso":21yn5y0r said:


> Actually, another proven favourite is Sadolins Classic (green tin, stay away from Extra, nasty high-build clag) - if oak go for 'natural' colour - I have it on workshop doors and windows... really very good indeed, a quick wipe once every 2 years, job done.



I also use Sadolin Classic for exterior woodwork. Very easy to apply and maintain.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Harbo (26 Oct 2012)

My doors and windows are about 20 yrs old.
I found that on the south side Sadolin only lasted about 2yrs whereas when I switched to Sikkens it lasts 3 to 4 yrs before retreatment?
They do build up layers though and I think that soon I might have to burn off and start again?
The treatment on the north side seems to last forever - proving that the sun is the killer?

Rod


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## bugbear (26 Oct 2012)

The joiner who made my oak porch used and recommended a mixture of linseed oil thinned with turpentine.

It has provided only poor protection (despite annual renewal) and the golden oak is now silver-gray in many places.

So don't do that, unless you're targetting a "medieval church" look.

It looked like this when new:







BugBear


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## Paul Chapman (26 Oct 2012)

Harbo":22wt56mx said:


> I found that on the south side Sadolin only lasted about 2yrs whereas when I switched to Sikkens it lasts 3 to 4 yrs before retreatment?
> They do build up layers though and I think that soon I might have to burn off and start again?
> The treatment on the north side seems to last forever - proving that the sun is the killer?



Yes, it's all about the weather. My front door gets little sun or rain and hardly ever need re-treating. My back door gets all the weather but Sadolin Classic is so easy to re-apply I do it every couple of years. Just a very light rub down and a couple of coats. Do all my garden furniture with it as well.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## MJ80 (27 Oct 2012)

Morrells Omina coatings or the external osmo oil

Are you spraying or applying by hand?


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## LBCarpentry (27 Oct 2012)

bugbear":cz9llbos said:


> The joiner who made my oak porch used and recommended a mixture of linseed oil thinned with turpentine.
> 
> It has provided only poor protection (despite annual renewal) and the golden oak is now silver-gray in many places.
> 
> ...



Thats rather nice. How much did it set you back if you don't mind me asking?


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## condeesteso (27 Oct 2012)

Come on BB - tell me you made it ??! [edit, sorry, just noticed you refer to the joiner].
I haven't heard of Morrells Omina coatings or the external osmo oil - will research, but I'm with Paul - the Classic Sadolins is mighty fine, very low build and really stable. Agree a quick wipe with wire wool (in my case) once every 2 years, and a very thin (almost scrub it on) coat - very fast to do and really effective.


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