# My new workshop



## colinc (21 Jun 2013)

Hi,

after having learned so much from the various WIP postings here, I thought that I should share my experience here as I build my own new workshop.

I am going to keep the individual posts quite short as I just wrote a long one and then lost it as the system had logged me out! #-o I hope that's ok?

regards,

Colin


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## colinc (21 Jun 2013)

Background:

Last year, whilst the kids were away, we down-sized to a bungalow (although I think that having finished at University, they have now found our address and have plans to come home). Whilst the new home didn't have a garage as it had been converted to living accomodation, it was otherwise ideal and as part of the deal, management allocated a corner of the garden for a my new workshop.

Planning:

I suspect that like me, many people are a bit daunted by the planning process, and I put a lot of effort into trying to design something with a flat roof that would stay below the 2.5m limit applicable to my allocated site. In the end I realised that it was just too much of a compromise as I really needed a taller building with a pitched roof, and I decided to go for planning. In reality, the process was very simple and the local planning officer was very helpful. I submitted some simple cad drawings and the application form via the planning portal, paid my fee (I think £170), and six weeks later got a letter giving me the go-ahead.

I really would urge anyone who has the same dilemma as I did to not compromise on height, and talk to the local planners. I got the impression that as long as I wasn't going to anything outrageous and the neighbours didn't mind, they really weren't too bothered what I did in my own garden.

regards,

Colin


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## colinc (21 Jun 2013)

Last weekend I started the clearance of the land. It was part slabbed (onto soil) with a greenhouse and various shrubs which I have removed. 

I have started removing topsoil into a skip at the front of the house but quickly remembered that the volume of soil is much greater when dug out than it is when in the ground. A message on the village's email list (we are organised here) found a couple of takers for as much topsoil and slabs as I could dig out, so whilst it's not as quick as just calling the skip company to take it away, it means that nothing goes to land-fill and I get bottles of red wine in exchange to enjoy whilst I rest my aching bones.

I found that I had six fruit tree/conifer stumps to remove. To get them out I have had to resort to digging around and beneath them with a trowel cutting out roots as I go - currently three down and three to go.

Hopefully, if the weather holds out and I can get rid of the current load of soil in the skip I can get the ground ready for hardcore over the weekend. A friend has offered to loan me a whacker plate to compact the surface. My current dilemma is how deep to go? I am very aware that much that I dig out needs replacing with hardcore that I have to barrow in.

As far as concreting goes, I have had a quote from a local pumping contractor and it should hopefully only cost about £200 + vat to pump 5 cu. m. of concrete in for the slab.


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## Phil Pascoe (21 Jun 2013)

Colin, if you write a long post it pays to "save draft" - it can prevent losing it. Just retrieve it and add to it if needs be.


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## colinc (21 Jun 2013)

phil.p":1i3hwqda said:


> Colin, if you write a long post it pays to "save draft" - it can prevent losing it. Just retrieve it and add to it if needs be.



Ok, thanks, I'll try that.

Something that is a bit unusual about my shed is that it is a bit of a prototype for a kit approach I am interested in. I have a particular problem in that because of its proximity to the boundary I need either to get building regs approval or build it of 'substantially non-combustible material' in order to get an exemption from building regs. (it will be <30 sq. m floor area). That rules out a timber frame.

Instead, I am planning to construct a light gauge steel portal frame as the structural part of the building and use light gauge steel 'stud and track' panels for the walls. Here is a picture of the engineering model of it that I made a while ago:





Obviously this is not something that everyone can do, but because I work in this industry, I can do this easily. The benefit of this approach is that I can order a kit of parts from the factory that comes pre-punched and ready to bolt/screw together. The idea is that I erect the portal frame and purlins, then lay two courses of bricks around the slab perimeter, then bolt the wall panels together and lift them into position on top of the walls (they bolt to the columns and eaves beams. I have checked the costs and this approach is not really any more expensive than doing it in timber and is potentially a lot quicker to put together if I get the details right. It is also much easier to meet the non-combustitible materials requirement using steel.

regards,

Colin


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## Harbo (21 Jun 2013)

Looks interesting but what are you doing about insulation?


Rod


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## colinc (21 Jun 2013)

Harbo":1j85vhk6 said:


> Looks interesting but what are you doing about insulation?
> 
> 
> Rod



At the moment, I am undecided about the roof. My planning application was based upon using insulated composite profiled steel cladding panels, but I am leaning towards using timber rafters over the purlins and using Cembrit artificial slates (apparently even with all the timber this counts as non-combustible) with plasterboard under the rafters, in which case I will use Celotex between the rafters. The roof design allows for the weight of tiles so I have many options and I am open to changing my ideas as the project evolves. 

The walls will be a mix of materials. As the rear and side elevations are barely visible to anyone, I have approval for profiled metal sheeting with insulation within the stud and track panels and a plasterboard lining. However that could be changed to composite panels if I can get a good price.

To the two front elevations my plan is to use Marley Cedral cladding which is an embossed fibre cement weatherbord profile panel: http://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/Facades/ ... Click.aspx although if budget allows I would like to use this on all the elevations. The insulation will be rockwool in the stud wall cavity.

I have also allowed for a floating floor over the slab with 50mm Celotex in it.

Have I got enough insulation? One of the reasons I didn't want to use masonry construction was to keep it all lightweight and fairly easy to heat up.

Colin


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## MickCheese (22 Jun 2013)

On my workshop I have felt shingles. Never tried them before but were very easy to lay, are lightweight and waterproof. 

After all a lot of American home have these not tiles so they must be reasonably ok. 

Mick


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## Phil Pascoe (22 Jun 2013)

Mick - any idea of cost per metre, please?


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## colinc (22 Jun 2013)

MickCheese":2rssl5y0 said:


> On my workshop I have felt shingles. Never tried them before but were very easy to lay, are lightweight and waterproof.
> 
> After all a lot of American home have these not tiles so they must be reasonably ok.
> 
> Mick



Unfortunately felt shingles are out too because they don't have the right fire rating class. They cost about £15 per sq. m. at Wickes rates. I would have seriously considered them had I not had the limitations on materials imposed by the building regs exemption requirements (not really an exemption I guess, as they still regulate what you can use).

To achieve the requirements my roof choice is really down to tiles, fibre cement sheets or plastisol coated profiled steel sheets. I am only really considering using either tiles or profiled steel. My planning permission is for steel and there is a place locally who sell Kingspan's odds and sods at reasonable prices: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Actionclad...10481505&_sid=374311016&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Colin


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## colinc (13 Aug 2013)

Hi,

just a quick update in case anyone's interested. 

I have now erected the structural frame which took a day and a bit to put up. Not a bolt hole detailed in the wrong place and everything a perfect fit, so I am quite pleased with myself:





I have now put in the two courses of brickwork around the perimeter and started on the stud and track wall panels (only the back two in the picture so far). They sit on top of the bricks but are bolted to the frame. The wall panels screw together with self-drilling screws so are a bit more fiddly to set out than the structural frame, but everything is pre-cut to length so it is very easy to work with:





The nearest corner column in the picture is going to be cut off below the eaves beam level, and the door goes diagonally across the corner to give me a good and wide access from the garden for large parts like wings (the gate and some of the planting in the picture will be gone). Once I have the metalwork completed and all the side bracing in, I can start to think about roof joists and tiling. I also need to order the Cedral for the sides but that requires a decision about the colour which I am putting off but will probably delegate to the female members of the household.

I am planning to lay a dpc over the slab, then insulation and a chipboard floor over that. Has anyone done similar? I am wondering if I should put battens down or just let it float on the insulation?

regards,

Colin


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## colinc (13 Aug 2013)

Harbo":1wdj3ev4 said:


> Looks interesting but what are you doing about insulation?Rod



The walls will be filled with rockwool (the sound deadening variety) between the studs. The roof will have joists over the steel purlins and plasterboard under. Am planning using 200mm glass fibre within the depth of the steelwork beneath the rafters, with a ventilated void above. The floor will be 50mm of Celotex. Windows all double glazed to current standards.

The idea is to get a reasonable level of insulation so that I can keep it warm economically overnight when gluing. I use mainly something called Aerodux which is a 2-part resorcinol-formaldahyde resin that needs to be be kept reasonably warm whilst it is curing.

regards,

Colin


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## monkeybiter (13 Aug 2013)

colinc":3gvks0hy said:


> I am wondering if I should put battens down or just let it float on the insulation?



When I had my extension built I agreed to a floating floor on insulation. 

That was a mistake [due to misplaced trust and a lack of research] as the insulation has compressed [slightly] in places of high traffic and the floor now flexes underfoot in places. 

Had I thought about it at the time, and now that I have, I would strongly recommend flooring grade board on battens with insulation between.


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## longinthetooth (13 Aug 2013)

Doesn't all that steelwork provide galloping thermal bridging?


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## colinc (13 Aug 2013)

Mike, that's what worried me. What material did they use for insulation?

Colin


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## devonwoody (13 Aug 2013)

Like your post and project.


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## colinc (13 Aug 2013)

longinthetooth":udxgey6g said:


> Doesn't all that steelwork provide galloping thermal bridging?



Hi,

no, there is no continuity between the outside, the steel and the inner finishes, there are battens and building boards in the construction that provide thermal breaks. There is of course scope for condensation on the steel in the cold cavities if warm air gets in, but appropriate vapour barriers and ventilation in the right places will take care of that. It's now quite a commonly used method of construction for low-rise commercial buildings and increasingly so now that the fire services have had bad experiences with timber frame in a few old-folks homes etc., and I have even seen it used in housing recently. 

Steel framing's all a bit OTT for a garden shed, but in my situation it's an easy and cheap option. I would have liked to use timber frame construction but it wasn't possible due to the requirement for non-combustibilty.

Colin


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## monkeybiter (13 Aug 2013)

colinc":x9786vcp said:


> Mike, that's what worried me. What material did they use for insulation?
> 
> Colin



Celotex ~125mm, can't see the type.


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## JanneKi (15 Aug 2013)

colinc":1eligux2 said:


> longinthetooth":1eligux2 said:
> 
> 
> > Doesn't all that steelwork provide galloping thermal bridging?
> ...



What do you mean? In general here in Finland wooden frames are considered safer by fire department - IF fire catches. Of course steel does not catch fire, but it has the problem of loosing it's strenght very rapidly in heat and the steel frames collapse in an unexpected manner. It's not typically the structures that burn - even stone houses burn, but that's due to the interiors (furniture, floorings, interior walls, paints etc.). The wooden frames have a very predictable behavior and at least here, they are therefore considered safer for firemen than steel frames. 

For high risk areas the steel frames (like high houses) have to be fire proofed by one way or another - insulation or overlaying with concrete or some other means.


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## colinc (15 Aug 2013)

JanneKi":pm3cr966 said:


> colinc":pm3cr966 said:
> 
> 
> > longinthetooth":pm3cr966 said:
> ...



Hi,

Co-incidentally, I work for a Finnish construction technology company, but am based in the UK. 

You have picked up on a short comment about a big subject. For small structures I don't think that there's any issue, each way has its advantages and in your part of the world the advantages of timber frame construction far outweighs the disadvantages. It's in the middle sized buildings over here where there are issues. After a couple of high-profile incidents there is a lot of concern about problems in medium to large timber frame structures and the fire services are pressing for changes in building regulations due to concerns about rapid spread of fire, most particularly during construction where timber frame is at its most vulnerable. This is a good summary and links to more specific issues: http://www.cfoa.org.uk/11064 In Finland there is a long tradition of timber construction and perhaps therefore more experience but it has seen changes too. Probably your building regulations are currently better developed than ours in that area. Am I right in thinking that prior to building reg changes (in 1997) in Finland timber was only allowed for low-rise but since then something like four storeys are allowed?

I understand that there he problems have arisen where small fires have rapidly escalated and spread faster than the fire services anticipated causing risk to personnel and adjacent property. A big driver behind construction methodologies in the UK is insurance. Insurers like masonry construction which is why we still build houses mainly with brick and block. Incidents like these have encouraged construction companies to look for alternatives to timber and so steel framed panels and cement based boards are seen as an alternative.

Of course, non of this is relevant to my little shed given its size and position. I am simply using steel framing because it satisfies the regulations that govern my choices (and I can now lift engines from the roof trusses).

regards,

Colin


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## JanneKi (19 Aug 2013)

colinc":2j0trdb6 said:


> Doesn't all that steelwork provide galloping thermal bridging?


It's in the middle sized buildings over here where there are issues. After a couple of high-profile incidents there is a lot of concern about problems in medium to large timber frame structures and the fire services are pressing for changes in building regulations due to concerns about rapid spread of fire, most particularly during construction where timber frame is at its most vulnerable. 
[/quote]
Oh yes, I know what is meant here. It's the sectioning of the bigger spaces with fire-barries, typically in Finland - depending on the fire-rating - we have to put in E30, E60 or E120 fire barriers/sections. Those are typically done with gypsum boards, double layers of those. For example the garage roof had to be done with double gypsum boards and also the wall facing my neighbour had to be done with gypsum. These will not prevent the fire, but they do give time for the fire department to arrive and well, contain the issue. 

The high-houses made of wood are still work in progress here, we don't have many that are higher than 3 stories. The issue is the even of fire, although they start to overcome that with some sort of sprinkler systems. That still leaves the issue of - you had fire, sprinklers took care of - what do you do with your extremely wet high house now? Especially the high insulation levels are problematic, since once you start to get into passive constructions - the structures are actually totally non-tolerant for any moisture.


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## colinc (18 Sep 2013)

Hi,

just a bit of an update although the picture is a week out of date and the roof is now fully tiled.





I now need to think about the door. It was going to be diagonal across the corner but I am now thinking of making a folding set that form a corner. Either way, I need the opening width maximised in order to get the aircraft fuselage in and out although I won't need to do that very often.





regards,

Colin


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## the_g_ster (20 Sep 2013)

Nice build.

Cool dog too!


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## colinc (15 Dec 2013)

Hi, 

been a busy autumn and progress on the workshop stalled whilst I got other jobs done. However, i have managed to make some progress getting the Cedral cladding fitted. Doors and windows are arriving this week hopefully, so might have it weatherproof by the new year:









Colin


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## MickCheese (15 Dec 2013)

Looking good. 

That is a big hole in the corner. 

Mick


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## nathandavies (15 Dec 2013)

nice looking workshop
like the corner


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## colinc (15 Dec 2013)

Hi,

The door is going across the corner. My Chilton aircraft project has a 7ft span centre section with the wings off (see computer model above) and will just fit through the 8 ft. tri-fold doors that are going in the hole! That way it comes out of the workshop and doesn't fall into the pond that is just out of shot.

I also like the idea of having a canopy over the doors so I can perhaps sit in my rocking chair in a dry spot.

I found some tri fold doors on eBay this week that are an absolute bargain for £150 less gear, but with a bit of help from a forum member (thanks Trev) I can source that at a good price too.

Colin


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## Berncarpenter (15 Dec 2013)

Hi Colin I also like the open corner but whats holding the roof up ? I noticed you had a corner post there in the plan and at the start of the build .

Cheers Bern


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## colinc (16 Dec 2013)

The eaves beam is designed for the cantilever. The post was there just to align the corner during erection.

Colin


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## Berncarpenter (16 Dec 2013)

colinc":m9txy1fm said:


> The eaves beam is designed for the cantilever. The post was there just to align the corner during erection.
> 
> Colin




Ahh i see thanks , Cheers Bern 8)


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## colinc (8 Jan 2014)

Hi,

I bought a set of brand new glazed doors and a frame without gear off Ebay for £150 + shipping and with the help of forum member Trevsf1 I was able to identify and buy the door gear. I have now fitted the door frame and doors. They work really well and I made a massive saving in cost compared to buying a set of doors through normal channels. I just need to find time and dry weather to make more progress with my 'shed'.

Here is a picture, sorry about the quality: 





I haven't trimmed around the door frame yet, and hopefully the windows will arrive next week..........

I do now have some spare track and rollers, so if anyone else is contemplating fitting a set of these (I think that the Ebay vendor still has plenty of doors) do get in touch.

regards,

Colin


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## carlb40 (8 Jan 2014)

Looking good there. 

I fitted some cladding to a house a few years ago. Awful stuff to work with. It would cut very easily with a hand saw - nice and soft. Cutting with machine tools was a nightmare. Blunted blades in minutes. In fact i had to cut one 4'' hole for a vent and the teeth on jigsaw blade were worn back to the shank. :shock: 

And the smell, it was like fibreglass and cement. Didn't taste nice :lol:


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## colinc (8 Jan 2014)

Hi,

not found Cedral too bad to work with. I used a diamond blade in a mini grinder to cut it - just makes lots of dust.

I wore out a countersink bit very quickly doing the screw holes.

Looks ok and was the only solution I could find that looked ok in the garden and was non-combustible.

regards,

Colin


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## carlb40 (8 Jan 2014)

colinc":34e07ljn said:


> Hi,
> 
> not found Cedral too bad to work with. I used a diamond blade in a mini grinder to cut it - just makes lots of dust.
> 
> ...


Does sound like the same or similar stuff. Lost count of the drill bits it blunted. Fortunately the foreman let me use his dewalt SMS so blunted his blades not mine :lol: 

I agree it does look good from a distance and seems weather resistant.


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## eoinsgaff (16 Jan 2014)

I have installed cement fibre panels on the exterior of my own house (just the porch) and I had to buy a special power-saw blade and drill bit. The blade had 4 teeth. Not 4tpi but four teeth in total. Excellent quality and lasted perfectly but cost about €150 for the two items. 

Eoin


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## colinc (16 Jan 2014)

For cutting I used a Bosch diamond disc in my 4-1/2 inch grinder. Cost £10 from Screwfix for a pair and still using the first one.

Drills, I just touch up on the grinder to get an edge back. It was only countersinking that caused any issue.

regards

Colin


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## siggy_7 (17 Jan 2014)

Very impressive Colin. Like you I would like to put a workshop within 1m of a boundary and I'm trying to work out whether a steel frame/fibre cement clad building is the way to go over masonry block construction. Whereabouts did you get the frame made, and for someone who is not in the industry how easy/cost effective would it be?


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## colinc (21 Jan 2014)

Siggy,

The frame can come from any of a number of suppliers, but I have modelling software that makes it very easy to do, but very few people would have that. Send me a pm and details of what you want to build. Perhaps I can help.

Colin,


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## colinc (28 Mar 2014)

Hi,

Just a quick update. Progress has been slow recently and not helped by a accident doing a fencing job involving my right hand and a sledge hammer! Four weeks on I am starting to think it is going to be ok.

Here is an outside picture: 




It does have guttering on one side now and the door surround is tidy now.

Internally I have insulated the walls which need lining, am planning to use osb and plasterboard (fireboard). The ceiling is now counter-battened ready for insulation and finish. I am in a quandary there as would like tongue and groove but plasterboard is cheaper. 

Wiring is currently on my mind, but I have a helpful electrician to guide me, just not quite decided what to put in.

Also, the floor is to be decided. I'd prefer wood but I am planning to do some TIG welding on aircraft bits so am concerned that it's fire-safe. I would really appreciate advice on this.

Regards,

Colin


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## stevep (29 Mar 2014)

Colin, first of all congratulations on a lovely looking workshop. As for advice on the floor and tig welding in there, I don't see a major issue really. As you are well aware, there isn't sparks flying every where when tig welding so I would just buy a couple of welding blankets, put on the floor when needed and then just carry on. Just ensure you use good welding practice like not leaving the building for at least 30 minutes after finishing welding, fire extinguishers at hand and being careful where you put your filler wire ends ( drop them into a metal bin/bucket ) etc . That way you should be fine.


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## colinc (29 Mar 2014)

Yes, TIG is a pretty spark-free process when everything is going well. I guess wood dust needs to be cleared up though or it is a recipe for disaster.

I had already decided that In fitting it out i must try to minimise places where dust can gather and ia new clean shed will be an excuse for fitting a dust filter up in the roof (note to self: put some eye-bolts in before fitting the ceiling).

I keep seeing ex-school hall maple and beech reclaimed flooring on eBay. Am wondering if that might make a good job of it? I am struggling to remember what our woodwork shop at school had on the floor.

Thanks for approving of the looks of it. I was very conscious when I drew it up that I didn't want it to be an eyesore. At one stage it started to look like a mobile home, but the sheen has gone off the paint now and it looks more like wood. I do need to sort the perimeter ground out, am going to use a gravel path to help absorb any run-off. Am planning to capture the rainwater and store it for use in our veg beds and greenhouse. The village allotments are behind us so am sure every bit of water can be used.

Any, back to the job!

Colin


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## krashbandikoot (29 Mar 2014)

colinc":nbxjmdza said:


> Also, the floor is to be decided. I'd prefer wood but I am planning to do some TIG welding on aircraft bits so am concerned that it's fire-safe. I would really appreciate advice on this.



Hi Colin, I MIG and Arc weld in my workshop on a floor made purely of OSB and it's fine. 

Even heat producing angle grinding where there are loads of sparks isn't really an issue as a fire risk. 

If you are that worried then a bucket of water, (which you should have for any welding anyway since you need to dip the piece to cool it otherwise it'll warp), should suffice as any fire will be just a very small one. Yes it'll get out of control if you leave it to burn but I can't see that happening  

If your welding is up to par then there shouldn't be any slag or hot metal dropping on the floor anyway, if there is then you're using way too much heat.

I've given one of my work benches a 2ft by 4ft metal top for the bulk of my welding work which may be an idea for you? It's 6mm mild steel so is reasonably heat resistant to any slag that drops onto it and has the added benefit of creating a good earthing point meaning you can work on a piece without having to have the earth clamp attached to the piece itself. 

The only thing I need to do to it is give it a quick rub down with some wire wool first so I remove the oxidisation from the surface which can cause a bad earth. Other than that it works exceptionally well for me. I'll post some pics of my welding workbench later so you can see what I'm on about.


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## stevep (29 Mar 2014)

There's no need for expensive flooring Colin. Our portable workbenches at work have plywood tops and we never have a problem with them burning......save your money for some nice tools !


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## stevep (29 Mar 2014)

If you are that worried then a bucket of water, (which you should have for any welding anyway since you need to dip the piece to cool it otherwise it'll warp), should suffice as any fire will be just a very small one. Yes it'll get out of control if you leave it to burn but I can't see that happening 

Krashbandikoot you are at risk of embrittlement and cracking by doing this.


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## krashbandikoot (29 Mar 2014)

stevep":nqo4j17t said:


> Krashbandikoot you are at risk of embrittlement and cracking by doing this.



Sorry but you're not.

Cooling between welds is essential to prevent the material warping, embrittlemen will only take place if you're heating the metal to temper colours and immerse in water rather than oil on the wrong colour.

Cracking wouldn't apply to mild steel and if it's thin material, (1mm or less in thickness hence why a TIG is being used), again cracking wouldn't apply. TIG's supply a soft and gentle heat rather than an aggressive one, the only welding you would do where cracking and embrittlement would be an issue would be oxy/acetylene as the heat transfers along the material much better.

All electric welding projects should be cooled between welds, if it's no I have seen 6mm steel warp where welds have run within 20 mm of each other because the metal hasn't been cooled and it's just heated up and heated up.


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## krashbandikoot (29 Mar 2014)

Here's my workbench Colin, as you can see I have a wood based drawer with wood based compartments for screws and nail gun brads.

I've never even been close to a fire despite the wood available so tend to agree with Stevep that there's no need for special flooring. 

Flat, intact wood is a lot harder to set fire to than thin strips or wood or wood that's been chewed and so has a lot of frayed ends.


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## colinc (30 Mar 2014)

Hi, I don't want to turn this into a welding thread, but rapid cooling is an absolute disaster on what I am doing which is welding 4130N chrome-moly for aircraft parts. Rapid cooling locks in stresses and leads to cracking. It is normal practice to normalise the heat affected area by heating to cherry red and the leaving to cool in a draught free area. That is why many prefer gas over TIG for aircraft work but oxy-acetylene at home raises too many issues like insurance so TIG and a mapp gas torch are better for me. I cannot really see a case where rapid cooling would help as it will always induce hardening of the base metal.

If anyone wants to discuss welding we could create a topic in the metalwork forum? 

Regards,

Colin


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## krashbandikoot (30 Mar 2014)

Rapid cooling aside, the fact remains, (based on what you've just said), you're not putting out enough heat to create a fire risk with a wood based floor so I can't see a need to put down any special flooring.

If you are that worried, I'd suggest a metal topped bench, (as in my pic), and a sheet of metal on the floor where you're welding plus a bucket of water on stand by just in case


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## colinc (30 Mar 2014)

Agreed, bright red bucket on shopping list.

Colin


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## colinc (3 Jul 2014)

Hi,

progress has been stop/start recently, but I now have the floor and ceiling in. Just need to clear out the junk, offcuts, old kitchen units etc., and then I can start getting my machines and benches installed. I also need to trim the wall/ceiling junction and box in the steel frame but that will be easier to fit when I have my saw rather than the portable saw I have done everything else with.

The lights are just hooked up to an extension cable but am hoping that the electrician will be along soon to connect everything up properly.

Here are some photos of the inside:













The bulk under the sheets is the fuselage of a Jodel repair 'project' which I couldn't resist taking on. I never intended to work on such a big one at home and the wings are actually 200mm too long to fit inside. It proves that they say about never having a big enough workshop! Getting that in did prove that going to the expense and trouble of having sliding folding doors across the corner was a good decision.

regards,

Colin


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