# Look, no holes!!



## Bodrighy (19 Feb 2007)

At last I have a chuck!! I was fully expecting it not to fit after all the hassle. It was supposed to arrive Friday, a week late, but they couldn't find my house. Had to go and collect it from the depot. 

Anyway I've got it. Here's my first turning on it. 

It's 7.5" dia. and 1/2" deep. Total depth is 1"

Not sure if it's a shallow bowl, a plate or a platter but what the heck, it's mine.













Pete


----------



## Blister (19 Feb 2007)

Mate , that's super 

Well pleased for you 

=D> =D>


----------



## CHJ (19 Feb 2007)

Nicely done, you did not pick an easy subject for your first chucking, well done on the flatness of the top face.

What wood and finish? and do I detect a shallow crack in the bottom surface (5-7 o-clock)?


----------



## Bodrighy (19 Feb 2007)

Thanks, Blister, like you I am still at the stage where I am getting a buzz out of creating something. Slippery slope or no I'm glad I'm on it. 

Pete


----------



## Anonymous (19 Feb 2007)

nice work Pete... the only known cure for the slippery slope is to do more... and more ... and....

Just an option, you could make a base (cue spindle turning) and make it into a tazza... posh name for a cake stand :wink:


----------



## Bodrighy (19 Feb 2007)

Gives me an idea, I have a small bowl that I went through the bottom on. Could be adapted. I'll have a think and get back to you on that one. I am slowly collecting odds & sods that I keep looking at and wondering how they can be adapted and used. I'll chat up the missus, she's got a good imagination and may come up with something.

Pete


----------



## greybeard (20 Feb 2007)

A lovely looking piece - that smooth base is really really good.


----------



## PowerTool (20 Feb 2007)

Very nice,Pete - glad you've got your chuck at last.  
And like Chas,I would also like to know what timber and finish (it all helps me to learn to identify them - grain pattern is quite like elm,but I could of course,be completely wrong :lol: )

Andrew


----------



## Paul.J (20 Feb 2007)

Lookiing good Pete.
I bet you can't wait to get back on the lathe now  
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (20 Feb 2007)

PowerTool":217ou879 said:


> Very nice,Pete - glad you've got your chuck at last.
> And like Chas,I would also like to know what timber and finish (it all helps me to learn to identify them - grain pattern is quite like elm,but I could of course,be completely wrong :lol: )
> 
> Andrew



Sorry, got excited with having finished something and forgot.

I have trouble telling most woods unless they still have leaves or bark on them but this one I know. It's a piece of mahogany planking I was given, lovely spicy smell but definitely one for a mask. I doubled up actually with a dental mask underneath another one as I can remember having a sneezing fit at school using this wood. It is finished with cellulose sealer which I then sanded down, resealed and waxed at high speed and buffed at low using paper towlels. Don't know if this is the proper way to do it but I could see my face in it when it was turning. Wood is reclaimed from a builder and so is really dry.


----------



## Bodrighy (20 Feb 2007)

CHJ":2mcjs5gm said:


> Nicely done, you did not pick an easy subject for your first chucking, well done on the flatness of the top face.
> 
> What wood and finish? and do I detect a shallow crack in the bottom surface (5-7 o-clock)?



Thanks Chas, I didn't exactly pick the subject, it picked me. The 'crack' by the way is a line in the grain, at first I thought that it was 2 planks butted but it doesn't go right through the wood. It does look like a crack doesn't it? Wood is really dry, reclaimed so hopefully cracks will not appear.

Pete


----------



## duncanh (20 Feb 2007)

Very nice. 
Most people these days tend to remount the piece on the lathe afterwards to take away evidence of how it was chucked but it can be a bit of a pain sometimes. I think your piece looks good as it is - the outer ring on the base looks good with the recess.

Duncan


----------



## CHJ (20 Feb 2007)

Bodrighy":3fsqe0vt said:


> Thanks Chas, I didn't exactly pick the subject, it picked me. The 'crack' by the way is a line in the grain, at first I thought that it was 2 planks butted but it doesn't go right through the wood. It does look like a crack doesn't it? Wood is really dry, reclaimed so hopefully cracks will not appear.
> 
> Pete



Could not make my mind up if it was, a drop of low viscosity CA would have been in order before finishing if so.


----------



## greggy (20 Feb 2007)

pete, thats great, looks nice, and very pleased you got your chuck, but which one you got! i got a couple of gouges on sat afternoon but not had chance to turn owt yit. its times like this i hate being a trucker, ant got time for a f*rt, not to worry roll on sat.


----------



## Bodrighy (20 Feb 2007)

greggy":3114qyuk said:


> pete, thats great, looks nice, and very pleased you got your chuck, but which one you got! i got a couple of gouges on sat afternoon but not had chance to turn owt yit. its times like this i hate being a trucker, ant got time for a f*rt, not to worry roll on sat.



I can sympathise to some extent. I teach in a college and by the time I get home I don't always have the energy to get on the lathe. It's alright for all these retired guys with plenty of time on their hands!!! :lol: 

I got the Super Nova 2 by the way, managed to get it for £139 including VAT + postage. Cheapest deal I could find. And it came highly reccomended by everyone. 

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (20 Feb 2007)

Another bit of firewood bites the dust




and from the top




Pine, 21/2" high, width 4" at widest point. bowl thingy bit in the middle isjust over 2" dia. finished with sanding sealer and wax polish, sanded again and then polished again
Easy to turn but a pig to get any kind of finish. Tried your suggestion of waxing then sanding Chas and it helped. It's smooth but can't get any kind of shine. Maybe buff it later.

and the last piece of Eucalyptus, till I get some more. Good stuff for practicing on.





Eucalyptus, 6" high sealer & wax.

Pete

P.S. No cracks Chas, it's the grain you can see, just spotted it before you did. :lol:


----------



## greggy (21 Feb 2007)

bodrighy cheers, looks like thats my next purchase. i like the others you did as well. you are getting good now, keep it up.


----------



## Bodrighy (23 Feb 2007)

Reached the point of frustration!!!! :x
My tools need sharpeningabout every three minutes (yes I have been counting) I have run out of decent wood and worst of all my skill level is such that I am not creating masterpieces, only rejects. By now I should be astounding you all with my wonderful works of art instead of which I have bin bags full of chippings and turnings that I haven't got the nerve to put up here for inspection. I hate being a perfectionist!!!!!

Or to put it another way, I give up, I am going to have to buy some new gouges and some decent wood. Am I the only one who seems to have as many pieces in the firewood bucket as on the display shelf?
Pete


----------



## Blister (24 Feb 2007)

Bodrighy":2qmn1kh8 said:


> Reached the point of frustration!!!! :x
> My tools need sharpeningabout every three minutes (yes I have been counting) I have run out of decent wood and worst of all my skill level is such that I am not creating masterpieces, only rejects. By now I should be astounding you all with my wonderful works of art instead of which I have bin bags full of chippings and turnings that I haven't got the nerve to put up here for inspection. I hate being a perfectionist!!!!!
> 
> Or to put it another way, I give up, I am going to have to buy some new gouges and some decent wood. Am I the only one who seems to have as many pieces in the firewood bucket as on the display shelf?
> Pete



Pete

Dont give up :? 

Just slow down a bit , think things through and take your time 

Good quality tools are a must , just get 3 or 4 for now then add to them as needed , as for wood , there's an huge pile of it on ebay at the moment for about £60 , looks like half a van load :shock: just type in woodturning


----------



## greggy (24 Feb 2007)

hi pete, i have got o load in the firewood pile and i got a pen mandrell and some 7mm pen kits from russells place ( and nice place by the way )
so i will start by trying to turn some pens, so this weekend will see my first turnings. (hopefuly)


----------



## Bodrighy (24 Feb 2007)

Blister":3nm17622 said:


> Pete
> 
> Dont give up :?


I'm not going to give up turning, just trying to make do with bits of scrap and tools which I suspect were bought in B&Q or somwhere. I'll take a picture of them later on and show you what I mean. My frustation comes more from the fact that I suspect that with the same setup, tools and wood, Old Soke & Chas would be turning out seamlees bowl and dolls furniture. I keep hearing a little voice saying 'Bad workmen blame their tools.' :lol: 
Pete


----------



## Alf (24 Feb 2007)

Bodrighy":2ofz6ptm said:


> I keep hearing a little voice saying 'Bad workmen blame their tools.' :lol:


Yebbut, Pete, _good_ workmen blame their tools too, if said tools are no good. :lol: Sounds to me, if you're having to sharpen so often, bending tools, etc, that you've no hope of concentrating on what you're doing and getting "into the zone". Plus don't neglect the efficaciousness of the application of sandpaper or scraper to, ah, assist in removing any difficulties. Personally I'd be lost without 'em... :-$  

Cheers, Alf


----------



## Anonymous (24 Feb 2007)

Hi Pete

Thanks for reminding me of me early days... frustration is part of the experience :lol: if we didn't have the sheety bits how would we be able to recognise the good bits :wink:


----------



## Paul.J (24 Feb 2007)

Pete.
Don't get dejected,just see it as a learning curve,we all have bad days.  
As i said in the other posting treat yourself to some decent tools and you will see the difference straight away.Use your old ones still to practice with,sharpening etc.
If you lived close enough you could have some of my Ash that i've accumulated :wink: 
Just seen the latest pieces very good they are too.The skill is there.  
I like the candle holder  
Paul.J.


----------



## CHJ (24 Feb 2007)

*Pete. *Don't try to be too fancy with the shapes, concentrate on simple forms and producing a good finish, the percentage of tool use as opposed to the application of the 80 or 120 grit gouge referred to by *Alf* on the difficult bits soon swaps places.


----------



## Bodrighy (24 Feb 2007)

CHJ":2csws7fw said:


> *Pete. *Don't try to be too fancy with the shapes, concentrate on simple forms and producing a good finish, the percentage of tool use as opposed to the application of the 80 or 120 grit gouge referred to by *Alf* on the difficult bits soon swaps places.


I'ave Chas, honest :? 
I have a small collection of practice pieces here 






The two with stars on them are bits of beech, the others are all offcuts of eucalyptus

I have been trying to practice different designs and things to get used to using the different tools and approaches. Biggest problem I have is still parting off. I can't seem to do it without burning. 

I had a phone call today. My sister ahd been talking to her neighbour about me starting turning and he turned up with this lot.




Includes a ring tool, deep bowl gouge, several bowl gouges, a couple of different angled skews and some spindle gouges. 
The taped ones, all Robert Sorby stuff, he wants back some distant time in the future, the rest is mine to keep.

He also gave me this chuck. No name on it. I am guessing that it is rigged with a pen mandril but have no idea what the rest is. Anyone able to identify it? I would have to get an adaptor to fit my lathe but need to know what to do with it first









Pete


----------



## CHJ (24 Feb 2007)

Some useful tools there for you to get an appreciation of. At least you will have a better idea on which you prefer to use.

Chuck I have no idea on, I'm still a relative newbie at this wood turning lark, depends on the price of an adaptor as to whether it is worth fitting on the lathe for some tasks I guess.


----------



## Bodrighy (24 Feb 2007)

Little branch of apple, about 21/2" high, 1" across, no finish yet.

Need to practice getting grooves smooth with the tools. sanding rounds them off too much. Any suggestions?

Pete


----------



## CHJ (25 Feb 2007)

Bodrighy":3gkuclpj said:


> Need to practice getting grooves smooth with the tools. sanding rounds them off too much. Any suggestions?
> Pete


Hard to say with my limited experience and I think each case would be different anyway.
Are you cutting them with a skew or a spindle gouge?

Ideas:

Fresh Razor sharp cutting edges, every chance possible use tool bevel to burnish wood surface.

Try using diluted sanding sealer before making cut, or lubricate with finishing oil if that is to be the finish.

If there is room, try backing your sanding medium with a steel rule or round bar (nail, pencil etc.) so that you have control of contact area.

Also try cutting grooves and cleaning them up BEFORE you finish surface. Use a hard backing for your outer surface finishing abrasive (steel rule) so that it does not enter grooves.

Hopefully Graham will have some better guidance for you.


----------



## Anonymous (25 Feb 2007)

> getting grooves smooth with the tools. sanding rounds them off too much



It depends on, as Chas has mentioned, which tool you're using and how you're using it.

The skew gives a very clean cut which usually needs little or no sanding ... the tool is used 'on edge' as opposed to flat, using the long point (the toe) position it on the tool rest at 90 deg to the work.
A simple arcing cut (don't just push it in) will give a fine line; to deepen/widen the groove angle the skew to the right about 5 deg from vertical... a series of arcing cuts will establish the right side of the V cut. Repeat the process angling 5 deg to the left of vertical to match the left side to the right.

The reason the 'toe' is used is to allow you to see the cutting action, if you're competent try using the heel and you'll see what I mean :wink: 

If you have an old chrome vanadium screwdriver laying around, grind it into a Bill Jones style 3 point tool... or you could buy the Crown tools (or other make) and make your own handle.
The three point tool has many uses but makes grooves and lines a doddle.

Sanding: if you've gone to the bother of including fine detail on your work you need to be very careful not to obliterate it. I always suggest to students that they use the index finger as the point of contact between you, the abrasive and the wood... this give you max control and feedback. Very little pressure is needed, a light contact is always best... better to make several light passes rather than one 'heavy'. Do not allow the abrasive to 'dip' into the groove when sanding the whole.

It's been a bit long winded but I hope it's of some use.

The box: luv the round dome! The lines (grooves) are not equidistant... it does take time to get your eye in... as with everything else, the more you do the better it gets :wink:


----------



## paulm (25 Feb 2007)

Hi Pete,

When parting-off, don't try and do it with just one width of cut, use the tool to make a second overlapping width cut so that the cut is slightly wider than the actual tool and do this aternately as you deepen the cut.

Easier to do than describe but you are basically avoiding the tool being jammed in a groove that binds on the sides of the tool and heats up the workpiece discolouring it.

If you are worried about losing too much timber this way then try a narrow parting tool, my favourite is only 1 to 2mm wide. A diamond profile parting tool helps also as it only rubs on the wider parts of the diamond shape, but you may still need a relieving cut (think that is a diamond profile parting tool second from the left in your picture).

Lower the lathe speed too when parting-off and this may reduce the heat build-up.

I think you're doing great, you've got an eye for shapes and proportions which is the difficult thing, the technique and finish will come with practice. 

Cheers, Paul.


----------



## paulm (25 Feb 2007)

Forgot to say, I think the chuck is a collet chuck though not 100% certain.

These were popular before scroll chucks become available, but were quickly left behind due to being fiddly to use and very very limited range of movement.

I wouldn't bother spending money on it if you've already got your scroll chuck, spend the money on additional jaws for the scroll chuck instead or additional gouges etc.

Cheers, Paul.


----------



## PowerTool (25 Feb 2007)

Pete - I agree with Paul,you've made some excellent,well-proportioned pieces  
The new chisels should make things a bit easier as well - after that,it's just a case of finding the right technique,and plenty of practice (or Grahams old friend,Percy Vere.. :wink: )

Good luck,

Andrew


----------



## Bodrighy (25 Feb 2007)

Lazy Sunday afternoon

Don't know whether you class this as 2 turnings or 3. All cut from the same plank of wood and treated identical yet came out with different looks....strange

First a simple bowl, approx 4" across & 2 1/2" deep. 






Then either a wide box or a bowl with a lid. 4 1/2" across, total 5 1/2" deep. 








Cut the lid nice and tight to fit as a jam and had real trouble getting it off again as it heated up. OK now. 

Don't know what wood it is. Pete


----------



## DaveL (25 Feb 2007)

Nice work.  

I think the timber could be Iroko. :-k


----------



## CHJ (25 Feb 2007)

DaveL":ebnvtlqj said:


> Nice work.
> I think the timber could be Iroko. :-k



Second that on both counts.

:twisted: :twisted: Iroko :twisted: :twisted:


----------



## PowerTool (25 Feb 2007)

Nice work,Pete - you have an excellent eye for shape and detail (i.e. the lid on the second piece).
I also enjoy the simplicity of the first one  

Andrew


----------



## Bodrighy (25 Feb 2007)

PowerTool":e92mvmw4 said:


> Nice work,Pete - you have an excellent eye for shape and detail (i.e. the lid on the second piece).
> 
> Andrew


Thanks, can't take all the credit tho' 
Design is often dictated by the mishaps, little digs that decide a curve would be nice, bad bit of end grain that says, 'take a bit more off please' :lol: 
Pete


----------



## Anonymous (26 Feb 2007)

> Design is often dictated by the mishaps...



Good to hear that Pete... *real creativity *:wink: 

(wot! ...no grooves :lol: )


----------



## Paul.J (26 Feb 2007)

Pete.
You must be happier now with your latest turnings.  
Look good to me.
Like the lidded bowl  
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (26 Feb 2007)

oldsoke":1q4m1699 said:


> (wot! ...no grooves :lol: )



On the underside of the lid.....done with skew as advised by someone

Pete


----------



## Anonymous (26 Feb 2007)

I'm going back to specsavers thisaft..... :lol:


----------



## Bodrighy (2 Mar 2007)

Dug in my scrap bag and found little bit of monogamy. Made ths little mini bowl and learnt three new lessons.











1. If you have only got a small diameter and are using a recess to hold the turning on the lathe be careful tightening the chuck or it will split the wood.
2. If you put wax polish on at high speed it melts into the wood and changes the colour. 

3. Little things are harder to make than big things.

Pete


----------



## Anonymous (3 Mar 2007)

Good to see you're getting adventurous Pete... nice work :wink: 



Bodrighy":2wfvooyg said:


> Little things are harder to make than big things.
> 
> Pete



Oh no they're not :lol: they're much quicker... makes wood go further


----------



## Paul.J (3 Mar 2007)

Pete.
*You're throwing bits of Monogamy like that away :!: :!: *
Where about in Exmoor do you live.Oh no don't bother if the postie can't find you i won't :wink: 
Nice little job  
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (3 Mar 2007)

Paul.J":13rya9dn said:


> Pete.
> *You're throwing bits of Monogamy like that away :!: :!: *
> Where about in Exmoor do you live.Oh no don't bother if the postie can't find you i won't :wink:
> Nice little job
> Paul.J.



The nearest town of any size is Minehead, 8 miles away. My hamlet is called Treborough


----------



## Anonymous (3 Mar 2007)

You should have saved that one for April 1st Pete :lol:


----------



## Bodrighy (3 Mar 2007)

oldsoke":2hk4tt08 said:


> You should have saved that one for April 1st Pete :lol:



I'm not the one who makes all the bad puns on here :lol: 

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (4 Mar 2007)

Got fed up making bowls


















5" dia. 2" deep. Managed to get them quite thin, wood unknown.

so had a look at a really rotten piece of wood and found a toadstool in it




8" tall, 

Toadstool is a piece I found in the woods buried under a load of leaves. Really rotten but had fun doing it. 

Pete


----------



## Anonymous (4 Mar 2007)

looks a bit like sapele/iroko...hard to tell with tungsten lighting...

I like the rustic mushroom, I have one in my collection made from a partially rotted piece of false acacia from a tree in my garden... same tree has just had it's bi-annual trim and yeilded some branch wood around 60mm dia... looks a bit plain though...


----------



## Bodrighy (4 Mar 2007)

oldsoke":1229atp3 said:


> looks a bit like sapele/iroko...hard to tell with tungsten lighting...



Someone else thought it might be iroko, strange stuff, every turning looks a bit different although it's all from a single plank, grains the same but the coulour varies quite a bit.

I must admit I like the mushroom, probably look differently at rotten wood from now on, plenty in the woods around here.

Pete


----------



## PowerTool (4 Mar 2007)

Nice work,Pete - I've made a couple of mushrooms,but so far only used yew branchwood (I like the contrast between the sapwood and heartwood)

Andrew


----------



## Paul.J (5 Mar 2007)

Nice work again Pete.
Have you noticed any difference using your new tools.
Like the mushroom.
I bet your a fun-gi to have around. :roll: :roll: :roll: 
Sorry.
Paul.J.


----------



## wood yew believe it ! (5 Mar 2007)

nice one paul lol \/


----------



## Bodrighy (5 Mar 2007)

Paul.J":gmo4f0j0 said:


> Nice work again Pete.
> Have you noticed any difference using your new tools.
> Like the mushroom.
> I bet your a fun-gi to have around. :roll: :roll: :roll:
> ...



Moss definitely to both.

Tools have made a huge difference. Also gives me a chance to look again at my old ones and try and regrind them to suit. Got a skew I have reground to use to make dovetails for espansion fits. Works a treat. 

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (15 Mar 2007)

Not had much chance to do any turning lately, visitors all the time. Had a go tonight and did this, last of the plank of (possible) Iroko. 
SWMBO wanted a container for bits and bobs so she got this.
Going to try and make a finial from some antler I've got to go in the hole in the top.


----------



## PowerTool (16 Mar 2007)

Nice piece,Pete - three piece turning,what a nice idea (guess you could just keep making more and stacking them up,if you had any matching timber left )
So I take it the hole in the lid is part of the design this time ? :wink: 

Andrew


----------



## Bodrighy (16 Mar 2007)

Holes in the lid are deliberate, it's holes in the bottom and sides that are unintended. I'll have to start doing some voided work and then I can incorporate the holes into the design :lol: 

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (16 Mar 2007)

Pete.
That's a great little idea.  
Might do one meself sometime. :roll: 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (31 Mar 2007)

Not strictly 'no holes' there's one in the bottom that I have to fill later. Wood was really funny shape so I had to use a worm screw to hold it with the tail brought up. Just as well, the screw worked loose 

About 8" across, 5" high. Dense, really hard wood

My sharpning techniques are improving otherwise I could not have done this, it is a wooden crotch, not sure what wood, with branches sticking out all over the place so was full of knots


















Most of the sanding and polishing had to be done switched off. too many bits sticking out. 

Pete


----------



## PowerTool (31 Mar 2007)

Looks very nice  (although it must have been "pleasantly challenging" with all those sticky-out bits )

Well done =D> 

Andrew


----------



## Paul.J (31 Mar 2007)

Nice looking piece their Pete.
How did you manage do it.Looks tricky to me.
Looks like you've got a good finish on it too :? :? 
Well done.
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (1 Apr 2007)

Paul.J":2vl09dnz said:


> Nice looking piece their Pete.
> How did you manage do it.Looks tricky to me.
> Looks like you've got a good finish on it too :? :?
> Well done.
> Paul.J.



Strangely enough it wasn't too difficult. I ran the wood slow as it was so unbalanced and the worm screw wasn't holding too well. I was supported with the tailstock. I used a huge bowl gouge (it's about 3' longand has great leverage) to turn the outside, working at the ghost and stopping frequently to view the progress. Inside I used a smaller bowl gouge and kept it shallow as there was a load of spalting showing that I wanted to keep and I wasn't sure that it went right through.
I kept the tail stock up digging it out and then parted off and cleaned up the nub in the bottom with a sharp chisel. 

I hand sealed it and then waxed it going over it with an old shoe brush. Tissue just ripped up even by hand. Most of the bark stayed on and polished up as well as the wood. It's a hard wood and the finish from the tools was pretty good as I have started being able to sharpen them a bit better. Less dust as well.

Must admit to being quite pleased with it. Usually I see nothing but the faults. More importantly, SWMBO thinks it's great so it keeps me in her good books. She wants to keep this one. :lol: 

Pete


----------



## CHJ (1 Apr 2007)

Bodrighy":2i90emy6 said:


> ...snip...
> More importantly, SWMBO thinks it's great so it keeps me in her good books. She wants to keep this one. :lol:
> Pete



Always a good sign that you are on the right track :lol: 

Well done for tackling such an awkward piece, and sorting out a method that worked.


----------



## Bodrighy (7 Apr 2007)

This turned out really well. First piece I am actually satisfied with. Goodness knows what wood it is, a branch from the woods....3" tall 









Just another bowl. 







Pete


----------



## PowerTool (7 Apr 2007)

Couple of nice pieces,Pete - particularly like the little vase (nice shape,nice proportions)  

Andrew


----------



## Paul.J (8 Apr 2007)

Pete.
Lovely looking vase.Nice shape.  
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (13 Apr 2007)

Managed to get some time on the lathe at last. Spent my fornight off surrounded by grandkids or on the road between Exmoor & Cornwall. Best laid plans etc....  





This is 14" across and thinner than I meant due to a dig, hence the unplanned channel in the bottom. Made from the seat of an old elm chair.

Something a bit different, started as an ordinary bowl but ended up with this. Bit more credit with SWMBO who likes it a lot. Didn't know what to do with it so she put a candle in the middle and pot pourri around the edge









Not sure about the wood, very hard. 8" across 3" high. Had a couple of splits which I filled with superglue and sawdust. Seems to have worked.

This is apple, about 3" across & high




Sort of natural edge but had to take the bark off as some came loose. 

Another one in apple roughly the same size .





Small piece (2" tall) spalted silver birch from the woods.




Yes it is leaning a bit. I need to level the bottom off as it wasn't a very clean parting off.

Criticisisms welcome but be gentle :lol: 
Pete


----------



## CHJ (13 Apr 2007)

Resplendent Rustics, swmbo happy, your happy, bank balance non the worse off, mission accomplished.

The pot pourri gets my personal vote, pippin the apple pot to a close second.


----------



## Bodrighy (13 Apr 2007)

Pippin...?

Do you have any idea what wood the pot pourri thingy is? It has a very distinctive smell and the end grain is awkward to finish. Thought at first it was beech but the grain seems too heavy....
I was given a nice big plank about 3" thick and 5' long. It splits very quickly as it dries but hopefully I have stopped it.
I have trouble telling the woods unless the leaves are still on them.


Pete


----------



## Paul.J (14 Apr 2007)

Like em all Pete  
That apple looks nice wood to turn :?: 
No idea what the wood is,got some pieces here still don't know what any are :? 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (14 Apr 2007)

Hi Paul, Yeah, I found apple a dream to turn. Fortunately I have access to a load of prunings from an orchard so I should be able to get some more small pieces soon. I'll have to try and think of small things to make...minature bowls, tiiwg pots, was finking of trying a couple of those watches like what Old Soke dun.

Pete


----------



## wood yew believe it ! (14 Apr 2007)

there all nice pieces pete, especialy like the pot pouri thingy, nice one !


----------



## TEP (14 Apr 2007)

Hi Pete.

Like your stuff, but if I had to choose the pot pourri bowl gets my vote.

You mentioned having a problem parting off the grass pot. If you have a old 1/2" firmer chisel grind the end into a parting tool shape, but angle the grind on one side as if you were grinding a skew onto the small cutting tip. You should end up with one short/one long edge on the cutting tip.

You can then part off with the slightly longer edge against the base of the piece and you should find it cuts a lot cleaner. Also you should always undercut the base slightly. It saves a lot on finish sanding.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Bodrighy (14 Apr 2007)

TEP":2rm1ozlb said:


> Hi Pete.
> 
> Like your stuff, but if I had to choose the pot pourri bowl gets my vote.
> 
> ...



Thanks Tam...the tip about making my own is something to look into. The problem I had was that I had this pot on a spigot and it was so short that I had trouble getting into it without hitting the chuck. Normal wood chisels tend to be narrower so it would be worth having a go at that

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (14 Apr 2007)

One very tall egg cup  







OK...OK...so it's meant to be a goblet but my grandson thinks it's an egg cup and I must admit, shape wise he's right.

Old mahogany door frame, 7" tall
(the 'egg cup' not the door frame....don't dolls houses yet)

I was focussing on getting the bowl thin (1 mil) and a nice thin stem. Chickened out on the stem when it started bending even with a very light cut with a sharp scraper. How on earth some of you guys get them so thin is beyond me :mrgreen: :lol: 

Pete


----------



## TEP (14 Apr 2007)

Hi Pete,

Just a follow on from my last, if you are that close to the chuck jaws use a thin parting tool. Or as I do a converted machine hacksaw blade, 30mm H x 1.5mm thick 325mm long, £2 each at the local flea market. Works a treat, and you can buy 6 or 7 for the price of one fancy wooden handled one. Not that you'll ever need that many.


----------



## Bodrighy (14 Apr 2007)

TEP":3flzya82 said:


> Hi Pete,
> 
> Just a follow on from my last, if you are that close to the chuck jaws use a thin parting tool. Or as I do a converted machine hacksaw blade, 30mm H x 1.5mm thick 325mm long,



I remember reading about that somewhere else, I would have thought that the blade would be too whippy. How long do you have the blade and I presume that you put it into some type of handle beore using? I did look at the knife style parting tools but until now have managed OK with the ones that I have got. 

Now that I have started doing small pieces (raiding the scrap bin) I could do with some smaller tools so have started making them from some carbon gouges etc I was given. 

Pete


----------



## CHJ (14 Apr 2007)

Bodrighy":7scnumhi said:


> ...snip...
> I was focussing on getting the bowl thin (1 mil) and a nice thin stem. Chickened out on the stem when it started bending even with a very light cut



Pete: Don't know what your method is but do not try to thin the stem back all in one piece/length.
Reduce the diameter at the cup end only, then work slowly back towards the base progressively removing wood in stages always leaving as much support at the base end as possible.

If the weight distribution in the cup still starts to cause out of balance wobble then lightly support the cup with the tailstock, using a piece of plastic foam or wooden plug, or if you have a revolving centre a wooden cone placed over the centre point to locate the cup.


----------



## Paul.J (14 Apr 2007)

Nice egg cup Pete.
That will stop you bending forward  

*Bodrighy wrote*
I would have thought that the blade would be too whippy.
Pete i think Tam means the bigger thicker hacksaw blades that are used on machines.These are quite stiff.
You can get a good sharp edge on these,though i haven't used them for turning but might give em a go now.
Hope this helps.
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (14 Apr 2007)

Chas,
That could bw where I was going wrong. I worked from each end to the middle and when it started bending I had visions of a lot of work going to waste so stopped. Next time I'll follow your way and let you know how it went. I have quite a lot of this mahogany and was going to use it to practice my spindle work with. 

Paul,

As I'm 6'5" anything that stops me bending is welcome. Not sure it could cope when I smack the egg on the head though :lol: 

I'll keep an eye out for those blades. The sound agood idea and would certainly be useful parting off right close to the chuck.

Pete


----------



## CHJ (14 Apr 2007)

Pete;

A couple of examples,

This one shows limited examples of progress from cup to base.
http://www.turnedtreasures.com/project. ... t_pg3.html

This is a good video but may take you a while to download on your wet string. Well worth the download time though. (4.37mb)

http://www.woodcraft-gallery.com/Stream ... ry_gob.wmv

I will admit to not using a skew as shown here, finger support or no, I get on far better using a fingernail spindle gouge.


----------



## TEP (14 Apr 2007)

Hi Pete.

Sorry I should have explained myself better about the hacksaw blade. As Paul said they are the ones that are used on the machine powered hacksaw. They are quite stiff, and I have had up to 4" over the rest so they are certainly easy to use.

When you make them I normally grind the the teeth off gently, then grind one end into the parting tool profile. I don't use a handle of any kind, couldn't be bothered, but you could cover the handle part of the blade if you so wished. Will try and photo my blade so you can see what I mean.




The big blade is 400mm L x 30mm wide x 1.8mm thick so it must have been about 450mm when I started. The smaller blade I made from a metal cutting bandsaw blade, it does bend a little but I only use it on very small pieces.




This is the shape I normally work with, (ignore the burning, I was in a hurry last time I used it) 

All the best


----------



## Bodrighy (14 Apr 2007)

Chas: 
I download any big stuff at work so I will add that one to my collection of videos. 

Thanks Tam, that's really useful. I'll have a hunt for some blades or an eqivalent.  

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (15 Apr 2007)

Had a productive day. 

This is from a piece of log rescued from a stream, No idea what wood. Moss flying everywhere when turning. 
2" high weedpot




[/url][/img] 
SWMBO not so keen, asked "what happened to it." 

Another experiment in mahogany. Sort of gobletty thing 4" high. Pleased with the thickness of the bowl again. Using the fingernail gouge and think I have the hang of it at last.




Been asked to make a fruit bowl for someone. Hope they like this. 12" across, 2 1/2" deep, again wood unknown 



[/url][/img]

If anyone can identify the woods I use I'd be grateful. Only trouble with scavenging wood, often can't tell what it is.

Crticisms welcome but remember that some of the wierd designs are experiments in technique :roll: 

Pete


----------



## CHJ (15 Apr 2007)

Pete;

A comment on the last item, the fruit bowl for someone else.

I personally think you have overdone the decoration around the rim, for something that may get a lot of handling it may get rather grubby in the recesses.

Also it may not be easy to handle when full of fruit if say wanting to move from sideboard to table.

I find people go for a bowl with a little wider rim more often than not:

_________ 

_______ _click on image for larger view

_________ 



Having said that I'm sure your personal input will be much appreciated._


----------



## Bodrighy (15 Apr 2007)

Thanks Chas, I see your point about the recesses and the rim. I'll have another look at it. I deliberately made it fairly thick for strength and there may be enough to adapt it. 

Keep the suggestions coming....firm believer in brain-picking

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (15 Apr 2007)

Nice pieces Pete,especially as they are scavenged woods.
I like the weed pot,makes it look like it's an old piece of pottery that sa just been unearthed,with the usual pieces missing.
I turned a bowl in the week using the Plumb or whatever it is and that had a piece of rot near the core which i broke away to leave it missing,swmbo thinks it looks good,so thats that.
How deep have you done the bowl in the middle,looks like you could go deeper perhaps.Nice looking wood,WEII.Thats a new one i think Chas.
Not sure about the goblety thing,looks uneven somehow.
But as i have said before,i don't really like being a critique of other peoples work :!: :!: 
Keep em coming.
Paul.J.


----------



## CHJ (15 Apr 2007)

Paul.J":1wij1qxs said:


> ...snip...But as i have said before,i don't really like being a critique of other peoples work
> Paul.J.



Something I am not always comfortable with either, but I think if you try and analyze the piece in your own mind it helps with your own perceptions for future projects, and having done that sometimes you feel that you indeed have something to contribute.


----------



## Bodrighy (15 Apr 2007)

Paul.J":3o2njrfn said:


> Not sure about the goblety thing,looks uneven somehow.
> 
> Keep em coming.
> Paul.J.




Bad photography. Is this better?




Thanks Paul. The little pot was made with an amphora in mind. I have got quite hooked on these little things, quick and easy to make, use up all the scraps and can often look reallty effective.
Here's a couple more from today






Wood from a log found in a stream again, 9" high. Pig to dig out, fortunately have a ring tool. Had to stop at the rim when I saw the light shining through. The top is actually the same dia. as the belly (2.5") but doesn't look it in the pics. 




Another weed pot from scraps. Again a mossy piece of wood my grandkids found for me. 3" tall.


Any wood ID welcome as well as critique.

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (15 Apr 2007)

Very nice Pete.
We took the kids down to our local country park last week,and there were loads of broken branches etc in piles.Looked like that lots of the trees had just been pruned and some recently felled.
Seeing what you are doing Pete i think we might be regular visitors.
Are you turning these pieces green :?: 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (15 Apr 2007)

CHJ":22gqgvs7 said:


> Paul.J":22gqgvs7 said:
> 
> 
> > ...snip...But as i have said before,i don't really like being a critique of other peoples work
> ...



IMHO sensible criticism is just another way of picking someone else's brains. We all approach turning from different angles and se things differently. Chas's comment about my fruit bowl for example, something I hadn't thought of and now know to consider. I truly appreciate any comments that make me think in a different way about what I am trying to do. I recognise that design wise my taste isn't always someone elses but as someone who has only had a lathe for 3 months I look forward to comments from those in the forum who have a lot more knowledge and experience so don't be shy Paul. :lol: 

By the way Paul. I turn the small things green, one was soaking wet from a stream and covered in moss. By the time I had finished turning it was bone dry. I find that I can tell if it is too rotten by the feel of it. Bigger stuff I have in storage painted with PVA glue. A lot already has splits by the time I find it and I have to chop off the worst. It's really great though being able to take rubbish and make something that others like. Trouble is even my grandchildren of 5 & 6 have brought me bits of wood and wanted things. Hence the little twig pots.

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (18 Apr 2007)

Hey Pete, I've got this bit of wood, could you make something with it for me?

This bit of wood turned out to be a 31/2" cube of oak with a ginormous knot and more cracks than a northern comedian. Stupid me says, "I'll have a go but I don't make any promises."

This is what she's getting.




The base is about 1/4" thick. Just as well theres a hole from the side right through to the bottom in the middle of that knot.

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (18 Apr 2007)

Nice one Pete.
Looks like that piece of Holly i turned some time ago,the one with the BIG split in.SWMBO still likes it though  
Hope this one stays o.k.
Paul.J.


----------



## CHJ (18 Apr 2007)

Cracking job *Pete*; satisfied the customer, kept it together, gained a little more experience.


Anybody got any thoughts about a rustic piece like this regards fors and againsts filling the voids or leaving "as is" ?


----------



## Paul.J (19 Apr 2007)

*CHJ wrote*
Anybody got any thoughts about a rustic piece like this regards fors and againsts filling the voids or leaving "as is" ?
I think with the type of wood me and Pete use,and others i suppose we just have to make the best of what we've got,as we are still learning and practicing.
I think in this instance it should be left to do what ever it does.It is a natural piece,and should make the most of the defects.
The piece i referred too is still moving and still splitting in different places,which to me and SWMBO like.
Other people have commented on it more than the other pieces i have turned.So it is of more interest i suppose.
Looks like most of the wood i've cut will end up like it too  
Paul.J.


----------



## TEP (19 Apr 2007)

> Anybody got any thoughts about a rustic piece like this regards fors and againsts filling the voids or leaving "as is" ?



When I have pieces with 'rustic' defects I usually plan what I'm going to make dependant on the defect. 

A piece of timber with a defect as above would probably have been made into a piece of 'rotten' fruit, and the cracks left open. In fact that particular piece would have made a good 'rotten' pear.

If it's a big piece of timber I will often make a feature by cutting it away even more, scorching the edges then finishing the turning. Or if there are a few defects I would fill with contrasting or highlighting colour/metal fillings.

Then as a final resort, if I can't figure what I could do to make it look good, it would be in the scrap bin. I don't bother turning bits that a are too badly gone any more. My usual criteria is 'will it look good' when finished.

Which has not really answered your question Chas. but as I often say 'beauty - eyes - beholder' and so on. It is also whether you figure it is worth trying to make something out of a piece of timber that may be too far gone.


----------



## Bodrighy (19 Apr 2007)

The person I made this for was really enthusiastic about it thank goodness. 

Like Tam I had a good look at the wood to see what could bw done with it. I couldn't do much shaping as the cracks went right into the wood. I am not very good at getting the shape with fruit (need to practice) and she wanted something that showed the character of the wood so I doid this oxy shape. Personally I like the rustic look and fortunately so does the cusstomer. 

Pete


----------



## Anonymous (19 Apr 2007)

Good stuff Pete... the customer is happy and you've had a bit of fun on the learning curve... sounds like a good recipe to me :wink:


----------



## Bodrighy (19 Apr 2007)

Thanks Guys, all I need to do now is practice my typing.

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (19 Apr 2007)

First one I made of these got bought as a wedding present. SWMBO told me to make another on so I did. Not so keen on this one, looks better with a smaller candle section IMHO





Pete


----------



## PowerTool (19 Apr 2007)

Now I like that idea,Pete - nice looking candle holder  
Better design than a lot I have seen.

Andrew


----------



## Bodrighy (19 Apr 2007)

PowerTool":1p4u1bjx said:


> Now I like that idea,Pete - nice looking candle holder
> Better design than a lot I have seen.
> 
> Andrew



The trough around the candle is filled with pot pourri like this




Pete


----------



## Paul.J (20 Apr 2007)

Nice one Pete.
What timber have you used.Looks nice.
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (20 Apr 2007)

Paul.J":spizyvqr said:


> Nice one Pete.
> What timber have you used.Looks nice.
> Paul.J.



It's off a planked piece of wood that I was given. Someone told me that it was beech but I'm not sure. Must take a course in wood identification :lol: 
It's a pale wood with a strong wide grain but very hard. Almost pine like to look at but very different to work. Finishes easily with a shine straight from the tool.
Both pictures are from the same plank and the second one is nearer the real colouring. If anyon can ID it I'd be grateful

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (20 Apr 2007)

*Bodrighy wrote*
If anyon can ID it I'd be grateful 
Pete i think wood I.D is almost impossible,for some timbers.
I was asked to to make some bookcases once to match this chaps existing ones,he said that they were Oak,English Oak.
I thought they weren't so went to a timber merchants with a sample that he had,and i got four different answers.None were Oak.
Also then asked someone who had been a carpenter all his life(no not Richard)  and he said it was something completely different.So that was five different timbers :roll: 
It's the same on here you ask for some timber I.D and you get varying opinions.
In your case there are Pines that are really hard,so a Pine it could be :?: :?: 
Sorry this don't help.
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (21 Apr 2007)

As usual not sure what wood it is. 9" tall candlestick based on a poppy seedhead. Rings didn't come out too clean on the inside. Need to work on them by hand if anyone decides they want it. 
Cut the stem as per Chas's advice. Thanks Chas, bit nerve racking but it worked.







Pete


----------



## CHJ (22 Apr 2007)

Bodrighy":2er8vi5f said:


> Cut the stem as per Chas's advice. Thanks Chas, bit nerve racking but it worked.
> Pete



Just passing on the recognized method of working Pete; spend enough time on "that dammed computer" as TLOML puts it, or nose stuck in books and you pick up these tips and methods.

Well done on the execution of the long stem but I'm a bit bothered about the "Top Heavy" balance of the holder with that size candle in it, I think a broader base would be safer.

Can you marry it to a wider disc of similar wood?

Looks like it might be Oak or maybe Ash.


----------



## Bodrighy (22 Apr 2007)

CHJ":20v4gxgq said:


> Bodrighy":20v4gxgq said:
> 
> 
> > Cut the stem as per Chas's advice. Thanks Chas, bit nerve racking but it worked.
> ...



I was working to the maximum dimensions of the piece of wood so couldn't make the base any bigger at the time. The candle just happenned to be one that was available. You are right tho' looking at it again now. I'll hve a look in my scrap bin and see what I have got. 

Keep the tips coming. Living 25 miles from the nearest club I welcome all the advice I can get from you guys.

Pete


----------



## ctb (22 Apr 2007)

Definately Oak


----------



## TEP (22 Apr 2007)

Hi Pete.

Long stems lookin' good, I agree the figure looks like oak, but as with computer screens they all look a bit different, so I state that with tongue in cheek. :lol: 

One other comment to go with the larger base, I think you need some sort of wax collector beneath the head. I know you said you were working to the size of the timber, but if that candle starts to run there could be an awful mess. Or you could turn a small dish for it to stand in of course.


----------



## Paul.J (22 Apr 2007)

Nice piece Pete.
This timber Looks like Oak to me too. :shock: 
Paul.J.


----------



## wood yew believe it ! (22 Apr 2007)

oak has my vote too
dave :wink:


----------



## Bodrighy (22 Apr 2007)

A few more from the scrap bin.

Square bowl, 3" across unknown wood (as usual) Knot through the wood so initially rejected it.





Tea light holder. 21/2" across. Again unknown wood





Deep bowl in beech, 3" across, 3" deep. This one split when I went too thin and I glued it together upside down (the line around the bottom)


----------



## Paul.J (22 Apr 2007)

Looking good Pete.
I like the square bowl,looks a nice piece of wood again :? 
Paul.J.


----------



## CHJ (23 Apr 2007)

Hi Pete,
A comment about the last item (the glue up), I know you are just using these pieces to gain confidence and technique in tool use, but I think your learning curve could benefit from taking a little more time out to eliminate the tooling marks, I know it can be difficult and if all else fails hand sanding with the grain can take considerable time which may feel a waste on 'trial pieces' but I found that the time spent pays dividends latter on in appreciating what is the best fix on more exotic pieces.

Although I often quote that applying a wipe of sanding sealer and paste wax is a matter of a couple of minutes, there are times when I spend longer getting to that final 'sealing' stage on a small area of a bowl than actually turning the form.

Shape and form are down to personal preferences, but a blemish free finish is universal.

Keep them coming, one of these days that big tree up the road you have been coveting may just fall your way.


----------



## Bodrighy (23 Apr 2007)

Thanks Chas, I must confess, I hadn't even noticed the tool marks until you mentioned it. I was concentrating too hard on getting it as thin as possible and making the join look OK and didn't really look inside. I might put it back on and see what I can do with it. Have to be careful though as it really is thin (by my standards anyway)

Pete


----------



## wood yew believe it ! (23 Apr 2007)

pete, if you do decide to remount the piece, just keep the speed well down and you should b fine ! nice pieces of "scrap" btw

atb dave :wink:


----------



## CHJ (23 Apr 2007)

Pete, I would be tempted to hand sand with the grain rather than trying to re-mount. It is more than possible that it has moved since you finished it and getting it to run true enough to risk touching such a thin piece with a tool is rather doubtful.


----------



## Bodrighy (23 Apr 2007)

CHJ":3e3q2pvg said:


> Pete, I would be tempted to hand sand with the grain rather than trying to re-mount. It is more than possible that it has moved since you finished it and getting it to run true enough to risk touching such a thin piece with a tool is rather doubtful.



Good point Chas, however I was thinking more in terms of remounting to hand sand (as opposed to power). It's only just over a mil thick so I wouldn't dare put a tool to it again. It should be pretty dry as I turned it initially about a month ago and glued and returned it yesterday. It had distorted a little but it was a dry offcut from a carpenter friend so it wasn't too bad. 

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (23 Apr 2007)

One simple bowl. 3 1/2" deep, 9" dia. Think it's some knd of pine but not too sure, hard but stroppy end grain. Distinctive smell.





Pete


----------



## CHJ (23 Apr 2007)

Simple and effective, that has got to be a user.


----------



## Paul.J (24 Apr 2007)

Very nice Pete.  
Nice grain pattern.Looks a bit like Ash :?: 
What finish have you put on it :?: 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (24 Apr 2007)

Thanks Paul. I put sealer on by hand then wax it on the lathe buffing with paper towel. Too tight to buy fancy polishes. 

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (29 Apr 2007)

These things seem to be popular. This is the third one that I have been asked to make. This one is being used to display gemstones and polished stones.


----------



## Bodrighy (30 Apr 2007)

Three little scrap turnings. I can see Grahams attraction to turning little things. There's something fulfilling in making these wee ones.

All from wood from the woods. 

2 1/2" high, weed pot.




3" experimental vase




this one is huge, all of 7" tall but only 1 1/2" dia. too small to make a base so that was made seperately fom a triangular offcut. Think the vase was a piece of hazel but not sure.
This one was interesting as it revealed worm holes after cutting into the wood. Cleaned out they are really neat as though cut by machine. Clever little beasties aren't they?

Pete


----------



## Anonymous (30 Apr 2007)

Welcome to the world of small and miniature.. you're half way there Pete 8) 

Next thing you know you'll be trying to see just how small you can get before it disappears into the shavings :lol: 

Luv the rustic vase :wink:


----------



## Paul.J (30 Apr 2007)

Very nice Pete.
As Graham says very rustic  
Paul.J.


----------



## TEP (30 Apr 2007)

Nice work Pete, and if you stay with small the cost of timber is a lot less. :lol:


----------



## Bodrighy (30 Apr 2007)

TEP":2pgpnkmx said:


> Nice work Pete, and if you stay with small the cost of timber is a lot less. :lol:



It would be except I haven't bought a single piece of wood yet. I only use found, recycled or donated wood. A few more trips to Yandles and I may succumb but not yet. I have a shed full of wood drying out, just never really know what wood it is so each piece is a learning experiuence

Pete


----------



## CHJ (30 Apr 2007)

Bodrighy":os5irvjl said:


> ....snip... so each piece is a learning experiuence
> Pete



May it remain so for many years.


----------



## Bodrighy (9 May 2007)

Can't do too much on a lathe that only runs at full speed, limited to small, reasonably well balanced pieces, but managed to turn this from a green branch. Interesting to see if it warps. 





6" high 2" dia bowl. Unknown wood (as usual) possibly hazel.


----------



## Paul.J (10 May 2007)

Very nice Pete.  
As usual no clue here either as to the wood :? 
How did you find posting from freeshare Pete.I tried and it kept saying file was more than too big :shock: .So used PB.
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (11 May 2007)

Hi Paul,

I always shrink my images in Photoshop prior to uploading them. There is also some kind of limit on Freeshare regarding total upload so it might be worth checking how much you already have up there

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (11 May 2007)

*Bodrighy wrote*
There is also some kind of limit on Freeshare regarding total upload 
Pete.How do you check.
I've looked on their but can't see anything to tell you :? 
I also crop the piccys in Adobe,and use the lowest resolution on my camera,1m pixels. :? 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (11 May 2007)

Paul.J":37aacrry said:


> *Bodrighy wrote*
> There is also some kind of limit on Freeshare regarding total upload
> Pete.How do you check.
> I've looked on their but can't see anything to tell you :?
> ...



Your photos are all well under the 1.5 mb limit for uploading so I don't know why you should have a problem there. Are you registered with them? It's free and if not may be the reason.

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (11 May 2007)

No Pete i'm not registered :roll: 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (13 May 2007)

Had a busy weekend using up some dried out wood from the undergrowth and rescuing some that had split. Not to everyone's taste I know and the photos don't do the pieces justice but for what it's worth here they are

Very spalted twig pot, looks almost as though someone had been throwing ink at ir. 4" tall, 2" dia




Spalted vase, 7" tall 2" dia Had bark inclusion which shot past my shoulder so adapted the design


.

Spalted night light. 3" tall 2" dia




This was an urn that I made a few weeks ago. Turned it green but it split. Very brittle wood. Top shattered so again adapted design. 9" tall 4" dia at widest




Very spalted pot. Now in use holding pencils by SWMBO 3 1/2" tall 1 1?2" dia, hazel




Told this was a piece of beech, not sure. 6" dia 




Most of these were a pig to sand and had to be done by hand. Pics don't show it but the finish was good, took advice and really worked hard to get it right.

Comments welcome. As always don't know all the wood. 

Pete


----------



## PowerTool (13 May 2007)

Nice to see you've been busy - I really like the urn  ; shape looks great,regardless of if it was planned or not.



Bodrighy":28f20yb1 said:


> Had bark inclusion which shot past my shoulder so adapted the design


 :lol: :lol:

Nice to see your design parameters are flexible,and glad the airborne bit missed you. :wink: 

Andrew


----------



## CHJ (13 May 2007)

Your rustic collection grows Pete, although hand sanding can take as long as the turning the results are usually more than worth it.

Don't know that I would try turning some of those those at full speed myself 8-[


----------



## TEP (13 May 2007)

Living dangerously Pete? Have you got a pilots licence for sending bits into orbit?

Some unusual shapes, and I do admire your stamina working with spalted wood all the time, it can be a real pig to cut clean and finish. You'll have to treat yourself to some real wood one day :lol:


----------



## Paul.J (13 May 2007)

Some interesting pieces there Pete.
Like little urn  
Did you do all these with your lathe still on full speed,or have you fixed it now :? 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (13 May 2007)

Paul.J":2ctysjy4 said:


> Some interesting pieces there Pete.
> Like little urn
> Did you do all these with your lathe still on full speed,or have you fixed it now :?
> Paul.J.



Thanks Paul, I am still working at full speed. I make sure that I have the tail stock up against it when I am starting up and I am not doing anything that isn't balanced well....until bits fly off that is. They are all small light pieces as well I may be daft but not stoopid.... :lol: Needless to say I also stand to one side as well.

Axminster are sending up the part that they think is causing the problem and I am waiting it's arrival before stripping the thing down.

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (13 May 2007)

Your a braver man than me. :shock: 
I haven't even turned mine upto full speed yet while turning :shock: :shock: 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (13 May 2007)

Paul.J":39hmhhq3 said:


> Your a braver man than me. :shock:
> I haven't even turned mine upto full speed yet while turning :shock: :shock:
> Paul.J.



I'm not really brave, and I must admit I was very nervous going at full speed at first but someone mentioned that it was easier to rough out and that you got a better finish at faster speeds. I start at slowest when turning anything that isn't balanced and if it is over about 4" diameter and then creep up as I feel it evening out. Mind you my fastest speed is only 2000 some of the guys on here go a lot faster than that (so do their lathes!!!}. I get a lot less digs as well at the faster speeds.

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (13 May 2007)

CHJ":g11m1wdo said:


> Your rustic collection grows Pete, although hand sanding can take as long as the turning the results are usually more than worth it.
> 
> Don't know that I would try turning some of those those at full speed myself 8-[



My 'rustic collection' as you politely call it seems to be the thing that people are attracted to Chas. They like the fact that they are individual and as one person put it' real wood' Not quite sure what they meant. 

Turning them was a bit daunting at first but I have made a set of different shaped scrapers which I use to cut very lightly where there are voids. Means sharpening them a lot as they are old carbon steel tools but it seems to work and I can get quite a good finish except where the end grain is open. 

Out of choice I would start them slowly before revving up but have found that as long as I am careful I just have to watch out if there are faults or bark in the wood. Invested in a face mask just in case. Turning them slowly has proven to be harder in fact as the tools are more likely to dig. I cut on the ghost, if that's the right term and cut lightly.

Sanding is another matter....no way am I going to stick my fingers anywhere near those edges and as I don't have a power sander it's a case of stop the lathe and do it manually. Slow but I still have ten digits and mean to keep it that way :lol: 

Pete


----------



## CHJ (14 May 2007)

Pete, once I had been at it long enough to get over the nervousness of turning at higher speeds I found the same thing, I now turn at the fastest speed I can, especially on interrupted cuts, because as you have found it shortens the hand/tool reaction time and picks up the cutting surface again before the tool has time to advance into the void.

Only thing now is to try and keep reminding myself not to get over confident, but this is a problem that comes with any machine operation when it starts to become second nature.

On the Rustic items front, I too get people going in raptures over what I once might have thrown in the firewood as not good enough to finish, I think it is a reaction against the consistent repetitive blandness of everyday items that causes some people to appreciate a piece of nature as is, warts and all.


----------



## Bodrighy (20 May 2007)

Definitely a day for weird shapes

Friend came over with a small log of pine...."Can you turn something with this" he says. I had a go. Woke up this morning to find that it had warped overnight....just 8 hours 





Nice bit of driftwood.....turned real slow well as slow as the lathe will go, think it's 6oorpm for a CCL. Had to leave the bottom wider 'cos I found some softish spalting there. Turned round to pick up some sandpaper and ...crack, the stem broke. Put it back with SG but it ended up like this. Can't see the crack but it definitely has 'character.'  

Bit _too_ rustic, even for me





Pete


----------



## Paul.J (20 May 2007)

*Bodrighy wrote*
Bit too rustic, even for me 
Never  
Pete i like these pieces that move all over the place.
The goblet looks like the piece on top is too heavy making it buckle under the weight  
I 've turned a few green pieces that have gone this way too.As i say i like em.
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (20 May 2007)

Paul.J":majiw3he said:


> *Bodrighy wrote*
> Bit too rustic, even for me
> Never
> Pete i like these pieces that move all over the place.
> ...



Hi Paul,

I usually do as well. Have you seen Steve Howletts site?Some of his stuff from green wood is incredible. Have a look at gallery 1 & 2. He has a section on how he does it as well.

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (20 May 2007)

Thanks for that Pete.
Interesting site.I think i will start to turn more green items meself now.
Love the example in his how to.
Wouldn't it be good though to have an almost endless supply of decent timber to pick and choose from :roll: 
I'm sure it makes all the difference.
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (20 May 2007)

Paul.J":ka4rq7jf said:


> Thanks for that Pete.
> Interesting site.I think i will start to turn more green items meself now.
> Love the example in his how to.
> Wouldn't it be good though to have an almost endless supply of decent timber to pick and choose from :roll:
> ...



When I look at sites like his, the wood isn't the only thing that is green :mrgreen: I have an endless supply of wood but it tends to be smaller stuff, scavenged from the woods, the beach, friends who are builders etc. Most of it tends to be small and it is hit and miss whether it is of any use. Half the fun for me. I live in hope of finding a couple of bowl size pieces of purple heart or lignum vitae on the beach :lol: 

In turning green wood, I have found that the heat generated by turning can dry and distort it and sometimes when you rechuck to do the bottom or something you find that it is no longer central. Can make for some interesting shapes. It also gets very hot, very quickly when sanding which can cause it to crack. Got a bowl at the monet that was perfect when I started that has developed a huge crack down one side. Waiting for it to dry to see what I can do with it.

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (20 May 2007)

Made from the other end of the driftwood (as the goblet) Not meant to be 'rustic' but the knot in the lip fell out. Glass insert is a long glass from the Pound shop. (3 for a pound great source for all sorts of things like this) It's actually below the level of the lip but can't go lowr due to the taper of the vase. 

12" tall, 2" dia at top. Unkown driftwood.




Pete


----------



## Paul.J (20 May 2007)

Very nice Pete.  
Yep it does send you green.
I did mean to have larger pieces to turn,but than again need the lathe etc to handle it all.
Pete do you put any sort of finish on your items,and aren't you worried about turning unknown woods found on the beach :?: 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (20 May 2007)

Hi Paul,
I usually put sealer and wax on but I have run out of wax so at the moment I am just putting sealer on. My cameras aren't giving a good picture at the moment, they are both due for an overhaul or replacement.

I presume you are referring to the potential toxicity of the wood Paul. The thought crossed my mind but as it has usually been waterlogged for X amount of time and as I use a mask and face guard I am not too worried. I looked at the listings of woods and their potential dangers when I first started this 'obsession' and most of the wood that I am likely to find on the beach is going to be fairly ordinary stuff. It's what has happened to it that makes it interesting. It gets bleached, distorted etc. I am more concerned about the wood I pick of for free from builders etc. If I don't know what that is I am very careful.

These I know,

The first two from the left are hazel, the last two are elder. remnants of the council hedge trim a couple of weeks ago. 




Pete


----------



## Paul.J (20 May 2007)

Very good Pete.
They look as if they've grown their  
Paul.J.


----------



## PowerTool (20 May 2007)

Like the vase,Pete  - and thanks for the link;interesting site,although most pieces aren't to my personal taste (I prefer "practical" to "artistic") I can still appreciate the skill involved in making them.

Andrew


----------



## Bodrighy (20 May 2007)

And finally for today.....




This started out as a bowl but was too far gone. Nearly threw it in the scrap bag, sure some of you will say I still should. :lol: 
I had an incense candle in a glass on it but SWMBO put this one instead...bit risky IMHO will change it back when she's not looking  


and to show that I do do more normal things as well
a floating dogbowl.
Don't know the wood but it's 10" dia and 3" high including the hidden foot.







Pete


----------



## CHJ (20 May 2007)

Bodrighy":3bjdjp5j said:


> and to show that I do do more normal things as well
> a floating dogbowl.
> Pete



I hope you are not going to be mean and make the dog fetch more wood before you fill it. :lol:


----------



## Bodrighy (20 May 2007)

CHJ":1bqsseh0 said:


> Bodrighy":1bqsseh0 said:
> 
> 
> > and to show that I do do more normal things as well
> ...



I haven't got a dog anymore Chas, just a geriatric cat and if she fills it she's out!!!

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (29 May 2007)

Couple of bowls from a wet bank holiday.

Both made from builders offcuts. This one I was told is ash




This one he didn't know. It looked like mahogany until I started cutting. Didn't smell or feel like mahogany and certainly doesn't look like it. Burnished almost to a polished finish just with the gouge. Wish I had more of it.




The graining isn't quite as dramatic as the photo but not far short of it. Any ideas?

Both bowls are 7" dia, 2" high and about 2 mm thick.


----------



## nickson71 (29 May 2007)

Bodrighy":1l93v5gl said:


> about 2 ml thick.


 
sorry to be picky but ml is a unit of measurement for liquid .......... I guess you mean 2mm or 2cm ............... (sorry again the scientist in me had to comment) 

Very nice bowl by the way


----------



## Bodrighy (29 May 2007)

nickson71":1t1fk400 said:


> Bodrighy":1t1fk400 said:
> 
> 
> > about 2 ml thick.
> ...



No problem pick away. This time of night I am lucky if that's my only mistake :lol: 

Edited appropriately

Pete


----------



## CHJ (29 May 2007)

Hey Pete, those look decidedly normal for you :shock: 

The second one looks like it might be Sapele with all that twisted grain.


----------



## Bodrighy (29 May 2007)

CHJ":3sfy5c1n said:


> Hey Pete, those look decidedly normal for you :shock:



Don't worry Chas, I also did this 




 

and half a dozen mushrooms from hedge trimmings, yew, hazel and elder. Yet to put them on a base.

Pete


----------



## CHJ (30 May 2007)

Phew! that's a relief :lol:


----------



## PowerTool (30 May 2007)

Bodrighy":1rlxh5zj said:


> Don't worry Chas, I also did this
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Now I think that looks really nice  - in a strange way,much more visually appealing than the more "conventional" shapes.

Andrew


----------



## Bodrighy (30 May 2007)

Candlesticks are usually round so I did this instead. It was a piece of beech from a builder and I have smoothed the sides etc without trying to make it nice and square. Using the grip-a-fix really makes a difference.









Comments welcome as ever.

Pete


----------



## Anonymous (30 May 2007)

It's not very rustic!

(luv the simplicity, it always appeals to me :wink: )


----------



## CHJ (30 May 2007)

Very polished Pete, the contrast of form with the cleanly turned socket in the rectangular block works well.


----------



## Bodrighy (31 May 2007)

Forgot to mention, it's 6" long, 3" wide and the glass insert is one of 6 I got for 50p at a boot sale.

Got a couple of triangular offcuts I might have a go with as well. Trying to get a stock of different stuff ready for a 'sustainability' sale I have been asked to do on the 10th June. 

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (31 May 2007)

All very nice Pete.
Should sell well  Fingys crossed.
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (9 Jun 2007)

A couple of boxes with antler finials.
This one has a turned antler finial soaked in tea (thanks Tam) Approx. 3" dia. 4" tall, sapele bottom, beech top





Need to give the finial a bit more of a polish I think.

This one has the tip as a finial, wood is spalted, 2" dia, 5" tall, unknown wood




and this was an unmarked, ordinairy looking log of hazel with all this figuring and spalting hidden inside. , 7" tall, 2 1/2 dia.




I find making boxes quite difficult. The wood swells when turning and so getting a good fit is realy difficult. Any tips?

Pete


----------



## CHJ (9 Jun 2007)

Bodrighy":2zzeov1r said:


> I find making boxes quite difficult. The wood swells when turning and so getting a good fit is realy difficult. Any tips?
> Pete



Pete, swelling will be not only whilst turning, sooner or later humidity variations/natural wood movement is more than likely to mess up the fit if it is tight to start with.

Use very dry dense fruit wood or 'Box', :lol: failing none to hand on your gatherings try to come up with a lid/base interface that centres the lid but has a loose fit,

On my pots I assume they are going to move so I either use a loose taper collar, or shallow rounded groove in pot or lid to assist centering.

Mostly variations on below in the pot top edge, a lid spigot that drops easily into the pot and a rim overhang to engage into the pot groove. 







These then drop easily into the pot and the lid tends to centre itself in the pot recess.


----------



## TEP (9 Jun 2007)

Mornin' Pete.

Like those candle holders you posted before. You must have posted them while I was away.  Do like that hazel vase, my kind of thing. Would look great with a few turned wooden flowers in it.

I must admit I prefer boxes with a lot more detail/fancy bits, but as *Chas* has said you can make the lid a loose drop in. Or the way I do it is with any wood, dry or wet, I part turn the box pieces, then leave them for a month or two to stabilize. Then back on the lathe and turn to finished size and shape.

What you need to do of course is rough turn a few boxes, then when you come to finish them, rough turn some more before finishing the dried boxes so as you will have some ready for the next session. If you have the patience of course. :lol:


----------



## Paul.J (9 Jun 2007)

Very nice pieces Pete.  
I started turning another lidded bowl some time ago and that moved whilst turning it.Still their now,might finish it off soon :roll: 
How deep have you gone on the vase piece Pete.
Paul.J.


----------



## mrs. sliver (9 Jun 2007)

your vases and candle holders are superb Mr. B! =D>


----------



## Bodrighy (9 Jun 2007)

Paul.J":1j6azn77 said:


> Very nice pieces Pete.
> I started turning another lidded bowl some time ago and that moved whilst turning it.Still their now,might finish it off soon :roll:
> How deep have you gone on the vase piece Pete.
> Paul.J.



I went to about an inch off the bottom. Because it's narrow I wanted to leave some weight there. Plus I don't have a gouge that would reach any further. :lol: Need to invest in a longer one.


----------



## Paul.J (10 Jun 2007)

*Bodrighy wrote*
I went to about an inch off the bottom.
What tool did you use Pete.I always seem to get a lot of chatter going on when i seem to reach about 4" depth. :? 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (10 Jun 2007)

Paul.J":3mybghzq said:


> *Bodrighy wrote*
> I went to about an inch off the bottom.
> What tool did you use Pete.I always seem to get a lot of chatter going on when i seem to reach about 4" depth. :?
> Paul.J.


I use a bowl gouge to dig out most of the wood and then a scraper with changeable heads to clean it up. I found that as long as I go careful and hold it tight against the rest I don't get too much chatter. If it is a wider vessel I use a ring tool once I have got the main centre extracted


----------



## Bodrighy (17 Jun 2007)

Hardly anyone turned up for the sale at College last week but managed to sell 2 vases for 27.50 and a night light (rustic of course) for 7.50. as also asked if I would be willing to sell some of the 'rustic' stuff through their gallery so the day wasn't wasted.

Few more pieces from builders offcuts and one from a log from the woods. 

From a piece of walnut that was 7" wide at one end and tapered to 4" at the other. , 


 6" dia 2 1/2" tall



 4" dia, 2 1/2" tall. Managed to keep same thickness on the wall using a scraper with changeable tip to do the hollowing out part



 3"" dia 2 1/2" tall

From a piece of mahogany planking


Mahogany, 3" dia 3" tall

From a log I found in the woods


Unknown wood, could be hazel? 6" dia 2 1/2"" tall

Comments as always welcome. 

Pete


----------



## CHJ (17 Jun 2007)

Plenty of variety there Pete, a little chunkier than I personally prefer but they are no doubt in keeping with the wood samples close up, you seem to have an eye for making the most out of your timber acquisitions. 
Pity the sales effort went so slow but at least you got some exposure.

Presume the lathe is behaving itself now.


----------



## Bodrighy (17 Jun 2007)

CHJ":bbzdfi02 said:


> Plenty of variety there Pete, a little chunkier than I personally prefer but they are no doubt in keeping with the wood samples close up, you seem to have an eye for making the most out of your timber acquisitions.
> Pity the sales effort went so slow but at least you got some exposure.
> 
> Presume the lathe is behaving itself now.



Thanks Chas, they aren't all to my taste either, I am trying out different designs, effects etc. I can't always tell until they are completed what works and what doesn't. Sometimes the grain in the wood I am given is the wrong way to go too thin and I have found that it splits or snaps easily if it is running the wrong way. Problem with off cuts, they are often the end of a plank. 

My camera is playing up as well and doesn't always give an accurate picture, the natural edge bowl is actually qite thin, about 2mm overall. 

The sale was a good way of finding out what other people think of my work. Quite interesting how they react. nearly everybody tips a piece over to look at the bottom and strokes it to feel it. Don't think I'll turn proffessinal for another decade or two though :lol: 

The lathe is fine now, amazing what a bit of TLC will do for machinery isn't it? :lol:  

Pete


----------



## CHJ (17 Jun 2007)

Bodrighy":2os8j3lq said:


> Quite interesting how they react. nearly everybody tips a piece over to look at the bottom and strokes it to feel it. Pete


Pete, I noted this behavior with finished items in engineering long before I took interest in turning wood, from day one I have tried to make the finish constant over the whole piece.

I think anyone who has attempted a craft of any sort even when looking at a totally unrelated craft item asceses the creators standards by what condition the 'hidden' areas are left in.


----------



## Paul.J (18 Jun 2007)

Some nice pieces there Pete.  
*Bodrighy wrote*
they aren't all to my taste either
Which ones are to your taste Pete.
Pity about the sale though you did have a go and did manage to sell some items.
Strange ain'it how the first thing people look at is the bottom of each turned item :? 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (18 Jun 2007)

Paul.J":3o8ktnvm said:


> Some nice pieces there Pete.
> *Bodrighy wrote*
> they aren't all to my taste either
> Which ones are to your taste Pete.
> Paul.J.



Thanks Paul,
I like the 2nd and last one best. I veer towards the natural edge, rough versus smooth style and also like things that are simple in design. Not a fan of straight lines or too much detail, like the wood to speak for itself.
Pete


----------



## TEP (18 Jun 2007)

Hi Pete.

I agree with the others, some are to my taste and some are not, nice though I do like some of your 'rustic' pieces. Personally I wouldn't like to be restricted as much by only turning wood I found. Every one to their own though, it would be a boring world if we were all the same. Pity your sale didn't go a bit better, yet if you want to sell you must get out there so people can see you.

You mentioned your items being lifted up and turned over, did you have them all priced so the ticket could be seen? I priced mine underneath once, never again. Now it would always be separate tickets sitting in, or beside the item. In my experience people like to lift and fondle the wood, but it is generally just us (woodturners) who always look underneath :lol: 

I agree with Chas on finishing, if at all possible all the item should be finished to the same quality. It raises the finished piece up another notch in the price stakes.


----------



## Bodrighy (18 Jun 2007)

Hi Tam, yes I had stickers on the bottom for pricing. 

My main reason for the restriction is that it is a challenge. If I get to a point where I need to turn something special for someone I am sure I wuld end up buying it though. Word seems to have got around somehow and every visitor who turns up has wood in their boot. Yesterday it was three logs about 2 foot across and 2 foot long with a gorgeous red heart, thought it was yew but the bark looks all wrong. I also have the promise of two oak trees and a beech tree, all dead for at least two years so. there should be some nice spalting, the beech is covered in burrs as well. Unless I want exotic I probably have enough wood for a while. I am just a skinflint and refuse to throw wood away. I recently made two little mahogany goblets about 1" high 'cos I didn't want to waste the wood.

Pete


----------



## TEP (18 Jun 2007)

Ain't now't wrong with being a skinflint Pete, you'll have to go some to beat me. It may be my ancestry, or I could just be a 'tight git!' :lol: 

When you said they were looking underneath I figured you had priced on the bottom. It don't half make a mess of your stall though once customers have been at it for a while. I always price using little turned stands with the price tags stuck in them, or if it was light pulls chuck them in a basket and stick a tag on the front.

Sounds like you have fallen into some nice timber, I process a lot of my own and if I get offered any I usually just take the bigger pieces. You can always cut them down if needed. I don't generally take anything under about 12/14 inches dia. these days.


----------



## Bodrighy (18 Jun 2007)

I have got some yew and elder about 1 1/2" dia which I have een using for practice as mushrooms and bobbins. I have found that working that small is good practice in spindle work and doing detail work. There's also something really satisfying about turning a really small piece out even though it isn't of any practical value. The more variety in experience I can get the better. Working with all sorts of cockeyed wood is also teaching me the different strengths and weaknesses in woods and techniques as well. 

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (1 Jul 2007)

Had another sale at my grandson's school fete. made about £65 so am now £10 short of paying for my chain saw. 

A couple more pieces I have made to replenish stocks.

Pear, gorgeous wood to turn. Must try and get hold of some more if I can



Approx. 6" dia, 1 1/2" deep wood originally had a sawn side whilst the other side had a wavy bark which came off when turned but left this shape.

Box from bits left over, Iroko bottom, sapele top and a hazel knob. 1 1/2" dia 1 1/2" deep
Tried your method Chas, much easier, thanks for the tip




This was going to be a natural edge bowl but it was so shallow I turned it into a sort of night light. Since replaced the glass as it got chipped. Hazel 5" dia, 2" deep




Spalted beech vase 4 1 1/2" tall 2" dia at widest.




All finished with sealer and wax polish. 

Comments and advice form the experts welcome as always

Pete


----------



## CHJ (1 Jul 2007)

Bodrighy":vsazcu0f said:


> Tried your method Chas, much easier, thanks for the tip
> Pete



Yes can't see the point in making perfect fits only to find that they are sitting on someones shelf with the lid detached because it has moved and won't fit or they can't get it open at all six months latter.

If you can still make the 14th you will see several variations on the theme.

Glad to here you are recovering some of the costs.


----------



## Bodrighy (1 Jul 2007)

CHJ":2gq67yl5 said:


> Bodrighy":2gq67yl5 said:
> 
> 
> > Tried your method Chas, much easier, thanks for the tip
> ...



I'll be there weather permitting. Might need a map or something by the sound of it tho' :lol: 

Recovering the costs is good but the biggest plus is that other people llike it enough to buy. It's nice to know other people like my work when I see all the faults and defects.  

Pete
Pete


----------



## CHJ (1 Jul 2007)

Bodrighy":92i56z0u said:


> I'll be there weather permitting. Might need a map or something by the sound of it tho' :lol:
> Pete



Pete, maps and directions will be on my site soon.
Will supply full address by PM to all wishing to attend nearer the date.


----------



## Paul.J (2 Jul 2007)

Another nice looking display there Pete.  
I do like the look of Pear.
I've got some Apple which is supposed to be very similar to Pear.
I will have to give it a go i think  
Paul.J.


----------



## PowerTool (2 Jul 2007)

Nice stuff,Pete - like the three-timber box,pleasantly quirky  

And also nice to see other people appreciate your work (enough to pay for it.. 8) )

Andrew


----------



## Bodrighy (8 Jul 2007)

These two pieces nearly didn't happen. This one had a split right through the wood to the centre going with the grain. It didn't look to bad at first but I saved it by sanding it which filled the hole with the dust and then shoved a load of superglue in on top. That fixed the shake bit left it visible following the grain. 
Yew, 4" dia at max, 2 1/2 mm thick and 7" tall. Finished with sealer and wax 




This one was the outside of a branch and at first I was going to do a natural edge but there wouldn't have been much left so I did it the normal way and ended up with this. 
Spalted walnut, 6 1/2" dia2 " tall thickness varies from 2mm to about 6mm due to it's shape underneath. Haven't finished the bottom off yet, need to get rid of the tenon. 


 



Must get hold of some 'ordinary wood and have a go at something normal :lol: 
Comments, as always, welcome

Pete


----------



## CHJ (8 Jul 2007)

Bodrighy":2unzgvax said:


> ....Must get hold of some 'ordinary wood and have a go at something normal :lol:
> Pete



Steady Pete, them's dangerous waters you are contemplating. :lol:


----------



## Bodrighy (8 Jul 2007)

CHJ":19bddrl5 said:


> Bodrighy":19bddrl5 said:
> 
> 
> > ....Must get hold of some 'ordinary wood and have a go at something normal :lol:
> ...



I know Chas but I am going to have to dive in some time and try. The really scary part is that I wouldn't be able to claim any defects as 'design features' :lol: 


Plus it would mean spending money  

Pete


----------



## TEP (8 Jul 2007)

Go for it Pete, live dangerously and get a piece of "real" wood :lol: . Only joking.

Like the vase! 

While your in a contemplative mood about spending money, you could invest in some powdered metal and epoxy. That crack would have looked good filled with brass powder.


----------



## Bodrighy (8 Jul 2007)

TEP":1h8s1gec said:


> Go for it Pete, live dangerously and get a piece of "real" wood :lol: . Only joking.
> 
> Like the vase!
> 
> While your in a contemplative mood about spending money, you could invest in some powdered metal and epoxy. That crack would have looked good filled with brass powder.



Thanks Tam, I have wondered about filling but I have seen some really awful examples on the net as well as some beautiful ones so have hesitated (my middle name!). Probably give it a go soon. I have a few bowls that are badly split hanging around awaiting inspiration that would be good to practice on perhaps

pete


----------



## Paul.J (8 Jul 2007)

Nice work Pete.  
Been new to Yew myself and really liking the wood,i have to say that the Yew piece really stands out.Lovely colour and shape  
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (8 Jul 2007)

Thanks Paul.

It's all heart wood unfortunately, I was given 2 logs and the outer layer was too soft so no contrasting white but it is a beautiful wood anyway.

Pete


----------



## PowerTool (8 Jul 2007)

Paul.J":2bay6zij said:


> i have to say that the Yew piece really stands out.Lovely colour and shape



Quite agree - got a lovely "warm" look to it  

Andrew


----------



## Bodrighy (17 Jul 2007)

At the mini bash Graham generously gave me a piece of 'proper wood' as he called it. Yhis is the result. I hope I have done it justice Graham. I got some wet & dry on it and you could skate on it it is so smooth.




Slightly spalted beech, 11 1/2" dia (only just got it on the lathe) 2 1/4" high. 

I was also given two poplar blanks. Found it really difficult to get a good finish. Managed this but it was like turning cotton wool on the end grain.





3 1/2" high 4 1/2" dia in middle. 

Comments welcome as always

Pete


----------



## PowerTool (17 Jul 2007)

Poplar one has a lovely shape and design to it  
(And yes,it is somewhat soft and wooly to finish  )

Andrew


----------



## Paul.J (17 Jul 2007)

Pete.Two very nice pieces there.  
Nice shapes and finish,even on the Pop.  
I found that giving the Pop a coat of sanding sealer first,leaving to dry, than sanding down again helps with the finish.
What do you think of turning with some "proper wood" :wink: 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (17 Jul 2007)

Thanks Andrew, I am slowly trying to start hollowing out. Long way to go yet. Any tips on how to overcome the 'woolliness'? I sealed and sanded tree times but the end rain proved too wooly. I have one more piece left. Thanks for these pieces by the way Paul. 



> Paul.J. What do you think of turning with some "proper wood"



Turning 'proper wood' is so much easier. I did both in about 2 hours all told and it takes a lot longer than that using my usual stock believe me. Much easier to get a good finish as well. 




Pete


----------



## CHJ (17 Jul 2007)

Pete, you done great with those, just shows how much the perseverance with your rustic wood has honed your skills, even if you had not realised it.

The 'wooly' wood will never be easy, but sharp tools and differing cutting angles go a long way to taming it, if all else fails try a little cheating with the next piece and coarse sand it while still wet with sanding sealer, this may just fill the grain voids and stiffen it up to get a smoother finish.


----------



## Anonymous (17 Jul 2007)

One smooth operator :wink: 

Nice work on the proper wood Pete  (please repeat in 12th scale :lol: )

I like what you've done with the poplar... complete with scorching :shock: ... just a personal view, I'd have put a scorch line above and below the 'flute' just to emphasize it :wink:


----------



## Bodrighy (18 Jul 2007)

oldsoke":1714vlbh said:


> One smooth operator :wink:
> 
> Nice work on the proper wood Pete  (please repeat in 12th scale :lol: )
> 
> I like what you've done with the poplar... complete with scorching :shock: ... just a personal view, I'd have put a scorch line above and below the 'flute' just to emphasize it :wink:



You're right, the wood is bland enough to take it. The scorching was done with the same sort of wire that you use only I took the insulation off first :lol: 

By the way, re the 1/12th scale. I had a look im tool box and I had about 5 old chisels that I haven't used for yonks. I ground them down into miniature skews and scrapers. I am thinking that as the forces in miniature work is a lot less this would be OK to practice with (OK Ok I admit it.... I got bitten by the miniature bug watching you) As a safety fanatic, would you say I am OK using these? If so I will attempt to do 1/12th scale just for you. I have some spalted beech and I can core out a piece from the poplar.

Pete


----------



## Anonymous (18 Jul 2007)

Bodrighy":37ppbjrs said:


> The scorching was done with the same sort of wire that you use only I took the insulation off first :lol: Pete


:lol: :lol: 


Bodrighy":37ppbjrs said:


> 5 old chisels ... As a safety fanatic, would you say I am OK using these?
> Pete



Yes, with a _light_ touch :wink:


----------



## Bodrighy (18 Jul 2007)

oldsoke":1c7vbkmp said:


> Yes, with a _light_ touch :wink:



I heard you, I heard you :lol: 

See you in Lilliput

Pete


----------



## Anonymous (18 Jul 2007)

:lol: :lol: :lol: 

Once you're into miniatures a piece of proper wood goes a long way


----------



## Bodrighy (18 Jul 2007)

Sorry Graham, I failed. The big bowl is close to 12" so I should have made these about 1" dia. This one is 1/6the scale of the big bowl



Would you believe it, I can see toolmarks in it as well :shock: 

and these are too small, about 1/24th at least. The base is also out of proportion with the top. Not so easy this miniature malarky is it?




Have to keep practising.

Pete


----------



## CHJ (18 Jul 2007)

Certainly a _little_ different from your previous output Pete, I guess the wood chip removal chore has just taken a nose dive.

On the subject of actual scale, I doubt it matters to anyone, it's the ability to create them that people appreciate.


----------



## Paul.J (18 Jul 2007)

I'd be happy with those for starters Pete.  toolmarks or not.
Still Amazed at grahams pieces and turning.
Another few years Pete and i'm sure you'll be up their.You'll soon be doing demos.
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (18 Jul 2007)

CHJ":1oznphdk said:


> Certainly a _little_ different from your previous output


Either you have been spending too much time with Graham or you have been at that Laphraoig I spotted in the cupboard :lol: 



CHJ":1oznphdk said:


> On the subject of actual scale, I doubt it matters to anyone, it's the ability to create them that people appreciate.


SWMBO's comment when she saw them was something like "aaaaaw" which I translated as "I like those" so I guess they were a hit. 


I'll have to keep the shavings down if I make stuff this small. Drop it and it's lost forever, some of the shavings are bigger than the goblet. 

Paul: I have a heck of a long way to go before I even think of trying to teach others unless it's how not to do things. 

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (18 Jul 2007)

*Bodrighy wrote*
Paul: I have a heck of a long way to go before I even think of trying to teach others unless it's how not to do things. 
Aargh,i did say a few years :wink: 
That is a good start.
Paul.J.


----------



## Anonymous (19 Jul 2007)

Luv it!!

Nice work Pete, at this stage don't worry about scale... just have some fun :wink: 

At these sizes you're using stuff that would normally end up in the bin... you can afford to push the envelope :lol: You'll lose a few (that's the voice of experience :wink: ) but you'll hone your skills with every stroke.

The bowl... a small bead on the top of the rim would make it appear less heavy... 

The goblet... a little large on the foot ... 9/10 for the rest of it... (would have been 10/10 but nobody's perfect :lol: )

Not a failure Pete... it's a triumph, ask your good lady 8) 

...from small beginnings.... :lol: ....turn a little every day... :lol:


----------



## Bodrighy (19 Jul 2007)

Thanks Graham, it is fun. It's a different kind of challenge and seems strange not having the lathe shaking around. I need to refine the tools and the holding system. I am using a 20m jaws on a supernova but suspect I'll need pin jaws or make some wooden jaws if I am doing it regularly. Certainly less clearing up afterwards :lol: 

Thanks for the inspiration

Pete


----------



## TEP (19 Jul 2007)

Well done Pete. Reading the comments makes me envious that I was away caravaning during the "bash". 

You lot had a great time by the sounds of it, and me & 'er' had the pleasure of getting swamped and wading around in mud for a week. 

As Graham says, you don't need a great stock of timber for those pieces :lol: Again well done with your baptism into miniature turning.


----------



## Bodrighy (30 Aug 2007)

At last I managed to get on the lathe, seems ages. 





Ash, 6" dia. 1 1/2" deep. Played with ebonising the rim and got som into the bowl so sanded it down with this effect resulting. Can't make my mind up whether I like it or not. 

Pete

Critique welcome


----------



## CHJ (30 Aug 2007)

Certainly enhances the grain, don't know that it is doing the piece any favours though, and on a bit of 'real wood' as well.

Good surface on it Pete, no discernable tool or sanding marks.

Could you touch up that little nick of missing colour on the left rim for me, I keep wanting to run the black felt tip over it. :lol:


----------



## Bodrighy (31 Aug 2007)

Morning Chas,

I agree with the comment re not doing it any favours. I had only intended to ebonise the rim but as I got some spray in the bowl itself I thought I'd experiment. Still we don't know that something doesn't work unless we try it do we?
I do need to touch up the little bit on the rim. Apartfrom that I am quite pleased with the finish


Pete


----------



## CHJ (31 Aug 2007)

Strange stuff wood, sometimes you can "mutilate" its natural structure extensively and it works for the piece, other times the smallest deviation from the natural looks out of place.

I would leave it as it is though, the enhancing will be mostly covered in use and I bet there will be as many people like it as is, as there are with doubts.

Next time you will take the time to mask it no doubt :lol:

Got to go, just been informed someone has been waiting for two hours for me to surface. :roll:


----------



## Paul.J (31 Aug 2007)

Looks good Pete  
Makes the grain stand out more.
How much did the overspray change the colour of the Ash.
Couln't you remount and sand some off.
All the Ash i've got is near a whteish colour.
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (31 Aug 2007)

The spray seemes to penetrate certain parts of the grain more than others. I did wonder about sanding it right out but decided to leave it for the moment. I had it mounted on a rebate so yes I can redo it if I want to. 

As Chas said, someone somewhere will probably like it. 

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (10 Sep 2007)

A little piece of Wenge from my tame furnitue maker

4" dia 1 1/2" high. Seemed a bit brittle but that may be because it was very dry. Polishes to a mirror finish.

Sealer and friction polish


----------



## CHJ (10 Sep 2007)

Getting to grips with the Black Art now Pete, quite a polished little item.


----------



## Paul.J (10 Sep 2007)

Nice bowl Pete  
Are those white marks the wax finish or something else in the wood.
Paul.J.


----------



## mrs. sliver (10 Sep 2007)

I could do with a tame furniture maker like that! nice one!


----------



## Bodrighy (10 Sep 2007)

Paul.J":3lj5h3v0 said:


> Nice bowl Pete
> Are those white marks the wax finish or something else in the wood.
> Paul.J.



Bad photography, I need to bounce the flash instead of doing it direct. 

Pete


----------



## PowerTool (11 Sep 2007)

Nice piece,Pete - like the grain pattern in it  

Andrew


----------



## Bodrighy (16 Sep 2007)

Piece of wood from a skip diving expedition at a local hard wood merchants. Note no bark, holes, splits or any other form of rustification :lol: 






5" dia. 3" tall. Finished with sealer & wax. 
wood polished with the bevel but had a bit of end grain problem. Finish is really high gloss, must try and sort out my digital photography techniques.


----------



## CHJ (16 Sep 2007)

Steady Pete, you're slipping into the realms of us traditionalists again.

Nicely done though, the internal finishing looks good, be careful about leaving such an unadorned consistent exterior though, someone might be tempted to draw pretty patterns all over it. :lol:


----------



## Bodrighy (16 Sep 2007)

CHJ":2luyx8u7 said:


> Steady Pete, you're slipping into the realms of us traditionalists again.
> 
> Nicely done though, the internal finishing looks good, be careful about leaving such an unadorned consistent exterior though, someone might be tempted to draw pretty patterns all over it. :lol:



I have got a couple of commissions from her already, she wants plain, light coloured things. Going to do some with the beech when it's dry enough. Don't think pyrography would work so well on green wood.

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (1 Oct 2007)

Tonights effort


Ash, 7" dia 2 1/2" tall. Rim is 1 1/2" wide. Finished with sealer & wax




Cherry, 3 1/2" dia 3" tall Sealer & friction polish 1mm thick at rim. 2mm at the base of the bowl



This one has again warped a bit already.

Pete


----------



## PowerTool (1 Oct 2007)

Hi Pete - like the way the inside of the top one is defined by the lip on the rim ("saturns rings" sort of a look);think it would look great if you made a lid for it.
Love the colour and grain pattern of the cherry,but have also found it more prone to movement that just about any other timber I've used  

Andrew


----------



## CHJ (2 Oct 2007)

Looking good Pete, the Ash one has given me an idea for something I was pondering.

With Cherry, the only way I have found to maintain shape when finished is to rough turn and leave for a while to sort itself out stress wise and dry further if needed, then finish off. 
Even wood that appeared dry when roughed moved over a few days.


----------



## Bodrighy (2 Oct 2007)

Thanks Chas, 

I have turned 2 pieces of cherry so far (knowingly), think I got them from you, and both have moved though so far neither have split. As you said both turned as though dry.

I have given you an idea? I have arrived :lol: 

Pete


----------



## duncanh (2 Oct 2007)

I like the ash one a lot. Particularly the way the grain works with the grooves. I did something similar in oak but was told that with such a strong grain pattern it would have been better to leave it without grooves. I disagreed then and now too.

Duncan


----------



## Paul.J (2 Oct 2007)

Two more nice looking pieces Pete.  
The Ash one in particular catches my eye.Some nice work gone on there  
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (2 Oct 2007)

Thanks Paul. I am actually beginning to see a difference in the finish of my work. As soon as I get my lathe fixed up firmly I must have a go at that girt lump of chestnut that you donated. Tried it the other week and the lathe started dancing round the attic. 

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (2 Oct 2007)

*Bodrighy wrote*
must have a go at that girt lump of chestnut that you donated. Tried it the other week and the lathe started dancing round the attic. 
That's the beauty of the Hegner.I think i started my big lump off on about 90rpm.Then slowly built the speed up :shock: 
I will look forward to see what you turn out of it Pete.
I should have cut it in the round for you i suppose.But thought i'd leave it so you could decide what to do with it.
Anything like Chas's and it will be a nice piece  
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (3 Oct 2007)

The perform only goes down to 330 rpm, a bitfastfor a piece as big as the chestnut. Especially as I have to turn it off the bed unless I chop it smaller which I am loath to do. It'll wait. Patience is something that I need to practice anyway

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (6 Oct 2007)

I chopped the big rootball in half and this is the bottom half. Approx 6" dia, 3" tall and thickness varies from 1mm - 12mm Sealed and waxed. 














The round bit you can see in the last picture is a foot about 5mm high. 

After seeing Andrews I wish I had put a small bead around the top as he did. Never mind one more rootball to go, perhaps on that one

Pete


----------



## PowerTool (6 Oct 2007)

Like it,Pete - think it works very well as a natural-edge piece.Lovely pattern on the inside of it  

Andrew


----------



## TEP (6 Oct 2007)

Absolutely gorgeous *Pete*. I ain't gonna say anymore about it, that is my style of bowl.


----------



## CHJ (6 Oct 2007)

Pete you have certainly turned a corner in this turning lark, that is a very effective piece. I think I'm going to have to russell up some black powder and retrieve a few of the root stumps in the local woods.


----------



## Bodrighy (6 Oct 2007)

Probably the last piece for the weekend. Must go and chop up some more beech while the weather holds. This is cedar courtesy of a log from Dave Jester Thanks Dave. It's 12" dia. 2 1/2" tall sealed and friction polished with wireburns each side of the bead under the rim. I deliberately left it a bit thick as it is destined (like Andrew's platter) for someone who will be tossing his keys and mobile phone into it.


----------



## CHJ (6 Oct 2007)

One more to be proud of Pete, Cedar is not the easiest of woods to maintain detail on, like the finish you have achieved in the base.


----------



## Anonymous (6 Oct 2007)

Form *and* function ...always a good symbiosis :wink: 

so, what plans to give up the day job... :lol:


----------



## Bodrighy (7 Oct 2007)

oldsoke":30ldo74u said:


> Form *and* function ...always a good symbiosis :wink:
> 
> so, what plans to give up the day job... :lol:



If I ever get good enough I might consider it but you would be the first to tell me it ain't that easy. 

Next step is to persuade SWMBO that I really could do with some lessons as there is so much I don't know. Plus you are only seeing the good stuff. I have a couple of boxes of mishaps awaiting a chuck change to do miniatures with. :lol: 

Pete


----------



## Anonymous (7 Oct 2007)

Now you know why I do miniatures :lol: 

Lessons are good but at your stage you should be able to be very clear about what you want to learn... it'll save you money and time :wink: 

(e-mail anytime, I'm always happy to be a sounding board)


----------



## Bodrighy (7 Oct 2007)

oldsoke":v7ksijz5 said:


> Now you know why I do miniatures :lol:
> 
> 
> (e-mail anytime, I'm always happy to be a sounding board)



I must admit I do find miniatures fun to do. If I get into them more seriously tho' I think I'll get another chuck. Changing jaws all the time is a real pain.

Thanks for the offer. Might take you up on it soon. Plenty of wood, lacking ideas 

Pete


----------



## PowerTool (7 Oct 2007)

Very nice bowl,Pete - like the shape,rim detail,bead detail,finish...well,everything about it,really. :wink: 

Andrew


----------



## Paul.J (7 Oct 2007)

Strewth Pete you've been going some aint ya.  
Love the rootball again,but the Cedar piece is my favourite out them all,so far :lol: 
Lovely shape and finish.
Paul.J.


----------



## mrs. sliver (8 Oct 2007)

Hi, not been on for a while  but I have got to say I am in love with that root ball! :mrgreen: I really wish I could turn stuff like that lad! I keep picking up bits of wood but don't much further ](*,) .. top banana!!


----------



## Bodrighy (10 Oct 2007)

mrs. sliver":1m05iuy3 said:


> I have got to say I am in love with that root ball! :mrgreen: I really wish I could turn stuff like that lad! I keep picking up bits of wood but don't much further ](*,) .. top banana!!



After seeing some of the things that you have had a go at Mrs S I don't see why you shouldn't. Just keep your eye out for the scrappy, wierd shaped bits of wood that are lying around and go for it. Worst thing that can happen is you get some practice in. Just keep it slow and use your ears as much as your eyes when turning. Listen for the way the sound changes as it gets thinner and as the rough bits disappear. 

Pete


----------



## CHJ (10 Oct 2007)

Bodrighy":2fylm3ts said:


> ... Just keep it slow and use your ears as much as your eyes ..... Listen for ...the sound ...as the rough bits disappear.



That'll be Sliver doing a quick exit from the shed :lol:


----------



## Woodmagnet (10 Oct 2007)

:lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## mrs. sliver (10 Oct 2007)

I can't even work out how I can hold the thing to start with I WILL get there ... eventually.. meanwhile I'll just wonder at yours! :shock:


----------



## Bodrighy (10 Oct 2007)

I had a problem with this, don't know if you can spot the result. 
Ash, 3" tall 3" dia at top 1" at bottom. Not sure of the thickness but could see light through it so I stopped turning.



 




Pete


----------



## CHJ (10 Oct 2007)

How did you manage that, unless the picture deceives me it's a little eccentric.


----------



## Bodrighy (10 Oct 2007)

Good eyesight Chas. I cut the tenon slightly undersize and padded it with wet & dry when I reversed it. It slipped slightly and ended up with the centre a few millimetres off. It actually look OK in real life, just off enough to make you look twice.

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (15 Oct 2007)

Couldn't get on the lathe over the weekend. Had to be sociable and visit people  Managed a few hours tonight after work though. A couple of 'love or hate' pieces. Both beech ( of course) One is a bit different so I've offered it for critique. (getting brave!!



Natural edge bowl markings don't show the depth which is approx 2" 9" dia.




Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (25 Oct 2007)

Fed up with making bowls so did this instead. Vaguely remember seeing one this shape somewhere so have probably pinched the design, if it was anyone on here my apologies.

Spalted beech, 5" tall, 2" dia at top, 2mm thick, pretty consistent. Sealer & friction polish. 








Pete


----------



## CHJ (25 Oct 2007)

Very good too, the figuring works well on the bowl of the goblet and the resultant 'spotting' on the base goes well with it.



Bodrighy":2yqb4x7d said:


> ..... 2mm thick, pretty consistent. .....



8)


----------



## Paul.J (25 Oct 2007)

Very nice Pete  
Cracking piece of timber.Is this off your big tree :?:
Like the bowls too :roll: 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (25 Oct 2007)

Paul.J":1qjyqnxw said:


> Very nice Pete
> Cracking piece of timber.Is this off your big tree :?:
> Like the bowls too :roll:
> Paul.J.



Thanks Paul, yes have a load of smaller branches that were dead and have spalted so thought I'd see what I can do with them instead of doing bowls. The natural edge bowl is from the beech as well. 

Pete


----------



## PowerTool (26 Oct 2007)

Nice work,Pete - everything about it just gives it that much sought after "want to pick up and hold" quality  

Andrew


----------



## Taffy Turner (26 Oct 2007)

Nice job Pete!

I bet trying to get consistently thin walls in that timber was "interesting".

Nice looking piece - very attractive.

Regards

Gary


----------



## Bodrighy (26 Oct 2007)

Taffy Turner":2akuy0ni said:


> I bet trying to get consistently thin walls in that timber was "interesting".



I thought it would be as the end grain on the original log was really bitty but in the end it cut really nicely. I found that I was able to get all the way down on the bevel of the gouge so was able to take Graham's advice and pare off very small cuts of wood so the sanding was minimal. 

Pete


----------



## Bodrighy (3 Nov 2007)

Thought I'd have a go at one of these, 23mm watch. It comes with a rubber band around the body but not sure whether I should glue that in to the frame. seems a bit loose but if I made the orifice (that sounds rude) any smaller it wouldn't fit at all. What have others done with these?

Wood is piece of old mahogany table leg.


Scuse bad photo, taking photos one handed after a few cans of Speckled Hen tends to make the image slightly blurry


----------



## CHJ (3 Nov 2007)

Bodrighy":d6zb37oe said:


> Scuse bad photo, taking photos one handed after a few cans of Speckled Hen tends to make the image slightly blurry



Taking a little time out to celebrate are we Pete :lol: 

Do you know I can't remember what I did with the last one, you just reminded me there are some of them still in the shed I never got round to using, will have a look tomorrow and see if it jogs any memories.

I know the ones I did needed a knife blade or similar sliped behind the rim to remove for time and battery changes.


----------



## Bodrighy (3 Nov 2007)

CHJ":1qev3y15 said:


> Taking a little time out to celebrate are we Pete :lol:



Part celebrate part drowning sorrows. After playing on the lathe of course. Alchohol and fast moving mahinery are a big no no as far as I'm concerned.

Pete


----------



## Anonymous (3 Nov 2007)

Nice one Pete!

Just my preference but I'd have liked to see just a millimetre or two more on the diameter of the wood... _eye of the beholder_ strikes again :wink: 

Just been to look at the one I did and found that like Chas, a blade was needed to remove the insert. Rather than a rubber band mine has small serrated lugs that grip inside the orifice.

You're going to have fun turning the brass 'knob' for the top :lol:


----------



## TEP (3 Nov 2007)

Hi *Pete*, Like the goblets further up the posts, nice elegant shape.

Re - watch faces with rubber rings. I get mine from Meantime and they have a lot of watch face sizes that come with metal cups or plastic ring as the fixture. Using the metal cup the watch face actually clicks into place and is a solid fixing. These days I only use the metal cup, and glue it into place with CA glue. Not all their small models come with the cup but there is a good selection.


----------



## Paul.J (3 Nov 2007)

Very nice Pete  
Is this part of the miniature range. :lol: 
By the way Pete,hows the new workshop coming along :?: 
Paul.J.


----------



## Bodrighy (3 Nov 2007)

Paul.J":u9i35x3q said:


> Very nice Pete
> Is this part of the miniature range. :lol:
> By the way Pete,hows the new workshop coming along :?:
> Paul.J.



Not exactly Paul, I may be doing some Christmas sales so I am trying to get a few cheaper bits together, light pulls, keyrings, the watches if successful etc. All the experts say that you need to focus on the cheaper end of the market with a few more expensive things on display. Need to earn a bit to fund my 'hobby expenses' :lol: 

We are looking to move in the near future so am cobbling a workshop out of bits and pieces. Very rough and ready but functional. Keeps the dust and shavings out of the house. Hope to have it set up with the lathe this weekend.

Tam: I saw the ones in Meantime this wek. Never heard of it before. I got just the one watch from Axminster. I think I'll try your source, seems to make sense as the rubber ring really doesn't hold well enough. Might convert it into a min clock if I can think of a design for it.

Graham: quote - You're going to have fun turning the brass 'knob' for the top
I was thinking of making one in a contrasting wood, never tried turning brass.

Pete


----------



## Anonymous (3 Nov 2007)

Bodrighy":2e20wxue said:


> ...I was thinking of making one in a contrasting wood, never tried turning brass.
> Pete



Made meself a light pull drive from brass rod... turning brass is fine as long as you go into scraper mode on slow speeds :wink: 

For the standard size 'pocket' watches I bought the screw in top from here:
http://www.craftmaterialsupplies.co.uk/


----------

