# Newbie to woodworking and scrolling



## Phoenix7 (23 Feb 2014)

Evening all

So I'm new to woodworking and just starting to build up a little workshop of tools.

I work in sheet metalwork but recently gained real interest in wood also.

I have just purchased a used 2 speed delta scroll saw, it needs a little TLC but I set it up today and used a silverline blade off eBay and it hardly cut, they where dreadful looking blades though.

So my questions are where is a good place to get decent blades and what blades should I be looking for?

Also does anyone know any woodworking clubs near kings Lynn Norfolk as would love to find some local talented folk to learn from.

Appreciate any feedback and advice for a newbie.

Cheers
Leslie


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## scrimper (23 Feb 2014)

My advice is don't buy Silverline! Every Silverline item I have bought has turned out to be useless rubbish!

For donkeys years I have used blades from Hobbies, I would recommend reverse tooth blades.
http://www.alwayshobbies.com/tools/hand ... s-for-wood


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## scrimper (23 Feb 2014)

You can also buy blades from Mikes workshop, he is a scrollsawer himself and sells the quality flying Dutchman blades. He offers a quick post service to the UK.

https://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm

In my own opinion I have not found any difference with these blades than the Niqua blades that Hobbies sell, although Mike does sell a huge range of sizes in several ranges.


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## toesy (23 Feb 2014)

Blades, I guess what your going to cut...

If your wanting to try some basic letters, etc, then pm your address and I'll post you a few blades,.... Don't know that machine and excuse me for being lazy and not researching it, but does it accept pin less blades.

if so I post you some pin less blades.


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## Phoenix7 (24 Feb 2014)

Hi toesy that's very kind of you to offer, yes it does accept pinless blades. Maybe I was being too ambitious I was trying to cut a wooden heart shape out of 20mm thick material. Unsure on the exact wood it was given to me similar to pine. I have been asked if I can do two letters for a friends wedding so I will pm you my address if that's alright and once again very kind thank you. Leslie


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## Phoenix7 (24 Feb 2014)

Thanks for the web links scrimped they are not bad prices either, I have bought a fair few silverline products myself and they are very poor quality sometimes you can get away with it but other times it just teaches me that old saying. Buy cheap but twice as it always happens. Not long bought my bandsaw and that's proved to be well worth it's money.


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## Roughcut (24 Feb 2014)

Hi and welcome to the forum.  
I have recently started using Niqua reverse tooth blades and I am happy with them.
I've just ordered some more in sizes 3, 5 and 7 from here:
http://www.hegner.co.uk/scrollsaw-blades


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## Phoenix7 (24 Feb 2014)

Hi Roughcut thanks for the welcome and the link, I was actually looking to buy a hegner machine and still might little later down the line. 

The delta machine came up very cheap and I the delta sander I'm really pleased with so thoight I would give it a go.


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## bodgerbaz (24 Feb 2014)

Hi and welcome along to the forum.

20mm wood . . . . if it's pine (light, softwood smells like . . . pine!) you should be able to use a No 5 blade. If it's a hardwood (heavy . . . smells like wood!) you may need a No 7 blade. I would recommend the reverse tooth blades as it cuts down on the sanding. As you know with most blades all the teeth go in one direction but with the 'reverse tooth' blades all the teeth go in one direction except the last few which point backwards. The advantage of this blade is that it greatly reduces the 'fuzzies' or tear-out that you would get with a standard blade.

I'm not sure which make of blades toesy will be sending you but I could send you some Flying Dutchman and Olson blades if you wanted to try a comparison test. PM me your address if you're interested.

Barry


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## Phoenix7 (24 Feb 2014)

Hi Barry, thanks for all the advice I like the sound of those reverse tooth blades leaving a cleaner finish.

As for the wood it was given to me by a carpenter as leftovers from installing a new doorframe and doors at work. 

I will show you a pic of what I was making maybe you can spot the wood I think it's a lot harder than pine actually no idea what it is but if anyone could tell me as I do like the woods finish.


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## Phoenix7 (24 Feb 2014)

Toesy and Barry sent you both pms so hopefully they both came through. Thanks guys


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## bodgerbaz (24 Feb 2014)

Phoenix7":3vb6xkxp said:


> Hi Barry, thanks for all the advice I like the sound of those reverse tooth blades leaving a cleaner finish.
> 
> As for the wood it was given to me by a carpenter as leftovers from installing a new doorframe and doors at work.
> 
> I will show you a pic of what I was making maybe you can spot the wood I think it's a lot harder than pine actually no idea what it is but if anyone could tell me as I do like the woods finish.



Nice bit of cutting and a very nice neat job.

The wood looks to be a fine-grained hardwood. Could be sapele or mahogany ?

Got the PM, I'll put some in the post :wink: 

Barry


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## Phoenix7 (24 Feb 2014)

Thanks very much Barry I went the bandsaw and hand sanding route in the end.


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## bodgerbaz (24 Feb 2014)

Yeah, for that sort of pattern the bandsaw will probably do a better and quicker job. I cut out some cars and trucks over the weekend out of some 47mm pine and used the bandsaw. It whipped through them but there was quite a bit of sanding to do to get a nice finish.


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## Chippygeoff (24 Feb 2014)

You say the wood you were given by your carpenter friend was leftovers from his work. Looking at theat lovely heart and arrow you made I would have said it was beech but then I doubt if the doors and frames your friend was installing were made from this wood. Reverse tooth blades are the way to go. Welcome to the forum and if in doubt ask, we are here to help. All the best.


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## ChrisR (24 Feb 2014)

Roughcut":1t91arfk said:


> Hi and welcome to the forum.
> I have recently started using Niqua reverse tooth blades and I am happy with them.
> I've just ordered some more in sizes 3, 5 and 7 from here:
> http://www.hegner.co.uk/scrollsaw-blades



Leslie.

Welcome to the forum.

I use, as Roughcut above.

If you purchase a gross at a time, Hegners price for Niqua blades, is very competitive.

Take care, and enjoy your scroll sawing.

Chris R.


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## toesy (24 Feb 2014)

Got the PM will post you some Olson No 7 & 7 Reserve & a few Niqua Blades..


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## james coleman (24 Feb 2014)

i buy my blades online from mikes workshop,aka flying dutchman blades,i use a lot of spirals blades and his are great,
google the name and he should be easy too find


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## Phoenix7 (24 Feb 2014)

Thanks for all the extra welcomes be nice to come and quiz experienced people with my problems when I'm stuck and thanks to Barry and Toesy for the blades to try. I have much ambition to learn everything and hopefully mix a few metal items in with the woodwork.

Do many of you have dust extractors? At the moment I run the Hoover round after playing about.


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## bodgerbaz (24 Feb 2014)

When I'm scrolling I just use a face mask but use a proper hooked up vac when using my thicknesser.


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## scrimper (24 Feb 2014)

Phoenix7":117yev7u said:


> Do many of you have dust extractors? At the moment I run the Hoover round after playing about.



I don't use a dust extractor with my fretsaw but I do with my other machines.


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## Phoenix7 (25 Feb 2014)

Afternoon all 

As for the dust extractor sorry i should have been more clear on my question, I cant imagine i will need one for the scroll saw too much but when i'm running the bandsaw and the compound mitre saw I kick out alot of mess, so have been considering a small dust extractor such as the SIP 50 litre or a Axminster Hobby similar to the SIP one. It needs to be quite a small one really.

i'm mainly trying to think what tools should I invest in as time goes on and in what order, generally i know its as and when its needed but i like to keep my eye out for bargains, so far had a fair few good deals on bits and bobs. 

Right lunch over back to work


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## ChrisR (25 Feb 2014)

Phoenix7":2jbf6vo0 said:


> Afternoon all
> 
> As for the dust extractor sorry i should have been more clear on my question, I cant imagine i will need one for the scroll saw too much but when i'm running the bandsaw and the compound mitre saw I kick out alot of mess, so have been considering a small dust extractor such as the SIP 50 litre or a Axminster Hobby similar to the SIP one. It needs to be quite a small one really.
> 
> ...



You are looking in the right direction, dust extraction with an induction motor, but bear in mind the specification of this extractor you are looking at, is for (wood chips only, not dust).

I use the next one up, (Axminster AWEDE2), with the additional fine filter bag (for dust) and plastic waste collection sack.

It works well for both dust and chip extraction.

I made up a manifold out of 100mm (4”) soil pipe, with four out lets, controlled by a blast gate and caps to go over the smaller pipes when not in use, ie the 40 and 50mm pipes/flexible tubes. 

Take care.

Chris R.


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## Phoenix7 (26 Feb 2014)

Hi Chris, cheers for pointing out the wood chip only situation.

I like the look of that model AWEDE2 you have looks good size and on wheels which is nice for where I'm looking to place one.

I certainly want it to be for dust so a combined one is ideal.

Leslie


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## ChrisR (26 Feb 2014)

Leslie.

Yes it’s a good machine, I don’t have mine on its wheels, it is mounted on a large spur racking shelf.

If you do go for this model, remember you have to purchase the dust filter bag and the plastic waste sack, as extras.

You may see reports that this does not have a good suction, true it does not have the suction of a vacuum cleaner, its not designed to (its high volume low vacuum), but it will clear any wood chips and dust faster than you can make it.

Having said about suction, from one of my manifold ports I have a long 50mm hose/tube, this will reach around all of my workshop/garage floor space, and without any effort will suck up all wood chips shavings from hand plane, and dust.  

Take care.

Chris R.


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## Phoenix7 (3 Mar 2014)

Well I can report a much more successful day cutting on the scroll saw today with the kindly donated blades for me to try from Dave and Toesy.

Once I have made something I feel proud of I will post it up.

Quick question where moisture is band to be present in my shed / workshop at the moment. What type of wax is it you rub on the tables of the Machines to protect them as would like to do this with the bandsaw and scrollsaw.

Cheers everyone


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## martinka (3 Mar 2014)

I use, and I know some others use, Liberon Lubricating Wax.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/liberon-lubricating-wax


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## ChrisR (3 Mar 2014)

martinka":2aggk85o said:


> I use, and I know some others use, Liberon Lubricating Wax.
> 
> http://www.axminster.co.uk/liberon-lubricating-wax


+1

Chris R.


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## Phoenix7 (3 Mar 2014)

Thanks very much for that I will get myself some on order end of the week. Cheers


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## martinka (3 Mar 2014)

The link was just to show the can, you can probably buy it cheaper elsewhere. And a quick search came up with this.


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## Phoenix7 (3 Mar 2014)

That's a big difference I was gonna go the eBay route just because I'm a sucker for eBay but cheers that's cheaper than flea bay as well.


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## bodgerbaz (4 Mar 2014)

Great advice and link Martin, thank you.


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