# WiZeR Official Workshop Build Thread



## wizer (25 Sep 2006)

yes its another workshop build thread and certainly not the first thread I have started on the subject...

*Day 1*

Rain Rain Bloody Rain! :evil: 

Well this should be the first day of the build but unfortuneatly the man upstairs doesn't agree! It's been absolutely pouring all day. So today all I have managed to achieve is taking delivery of the wood...







and insulation






and this should give you a rough idea of how the build is going to go.






The design has changed over the weekend, after clearing out the build area, we decided the workshop was going to be too small. So I have added about a metre to it's length.

I'm still worrying about the roof. I'm quite happy about building the structure, it's the finish that worries me. It has to be done perfectly to prevent leaks. Might have a ring round see how much a pro roofer might charge.

Ah well not much more to say today, lets hope for a dry day tomorrow. [-o<


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## George_N (25 Sep 2006)

How will you access the side against the fence for maintenance in the future?


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## wizer (25 Sep 2006)

I wont be able to, it will be finished before it goes up and then the only access will mean taking out the fence panels


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## StevieB (25 Sep 2006)

Hi Wizer, the only thing I would be worried about there is standing water - your sketch seems to show the bearers on the floor - are you planning to isolate the timber from the ground surface in any way?

Steve.


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## OLD (25 Sep 2006)

Have a look at wicks roof system felt that will not tear and peel and stick application with long life it makes a nice job best done on a mild day for workability.


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## wizer (25 Sep 2006)

cheers OLD i'll have a look at that.

Steve

I have thought about that issue. I guess my options are to 1. Have a concrete floor with the walls mounted on brick courses. 2. Dig a soak away around the front and back of the base.

I think i'm leaning towards option 2 as I dont like the idea of concrete floor.


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## ByronBlack (25 Sep 2006)

Glad to see you get going Wizer! The roof isn't all that bad i've been working on mine again today it's going quite well despite me not liking heights!

Will be following your thread as it progresses!


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## ColG (25 Sep 2006)

Wizer,

That looks like an already solid base. Why not use paviours with DPC strips to support your base - if you have irregularities you could use some cheap floor tiles as "shims". That's what I did on mine and it worked very well.

Cheers

Col


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## ByronBlack (25 Sep 2006)

Wizer, with regards your foor, you could something similar to me. I laid a single course of bricks in 3ft centres, and then laid my 6x2 joists on them with a course of DPC between the bricks and timbers, I just a couple of wedges here and there to get the floor level - was relatiely easy if not hard labour to get all the joists into positions and fix the noggins into place.


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## Inspector (25 Sep 2006)

> George_N
> PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:40 pm Post subject:
> How will you access the side against the fence for maintenance in the future?
> WiZeR
> ...



Any chance the fence can be removed and the shop wall extended out to replace it to gain a bit more floor space?


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## SketchUp Guru (25 Sep 2006)

I'm happy to see another shed building thread going. I think these are good for those coming along wanting to build. WiZeR (that's hard to type.  ) I think you need to turn the studs on either side of the door 90° and double them up. Also double the header (make it at least a pair of 6x2s) across the top of the door and add studs between the header and the rafter.

I don't think that wall as it is drawn will have enough stiffness with the doors open.


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## wizer (25 Sep 2006)

ColG":22inkib7 said:


> That looks like an already solid base. Why not use paviours with DPC strips to support your base - if you have irregularities you could use some cheap floor tiles as "shims". That's what I did on mine and it worked very well.



That's actually kind of the current plan. If the weather is dry tomorrow then the plan is to find the levels and see how much shimming is needed.

The wood is tanalised, plus i'm going to paint it with cheap shed paint, then it's going to be wrapped underneath with a full sheet of DPM. 

I know that is not bullet proof, but it should last out at least 5yrs (probably more), which will see me out of this house. 

I think I will end up digging out the soak-away to take the running water from the sloping drive away.



Inspector":22inkib7 said:


> Any chance the fence can be removed and the shop wall extended out to replace it to gain a bit more floor space?



Yes this was an option and our neighbour is very friendly, but for peace of mind i'd prefer to keep it as is. Once you put the gutter on then it prety much goes against the boundary anyway.



Dave R":22inkib7 said:


> I think you need to turn the studs on either side of the door 90° and double them up. Also double the header (make it at least a pair of 6x2s) across the top of the door and add studs between the header and the rafter.
> 
> I don't think that wall as it is drawn will have enough stiffness with the doors open.



Thanks Dave, Actually I have allready planned to 'beef up' the front. The roller door that I am having requires 4x4 posts. So the whole front frame work will be made from 4x4's and i'm thinking about joining them using loose tennons.

*Day 1 - Update*

The rain stopped for about 45mins and allowed me to finish clearing the area ready to start tomorrow [-o< 

The wood was delivered just as it started pouring down heavily and it didn't let up for about 2hrs. When it stopped I covered it up with tarp. But i'm worried about the sheet material.

The electrics are playing on my mind at the moment. I'd prefer the wiring to be run through the base, but i'm not yet prepared for it. I think I understand the basics of running the first fix wiring for sockets (an electrician will be connecting me into the ring main and doing all the dangerous stuff). However I'm more concerned with getting the structure up and dont want to be fiddling with wiring. I may have to make the base so that the floor can be taken up to run the cabling later.


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## ByronBlack (25 Sep 2006)

Wizer, like me you've been battling against the rain today, but aslong as your sheet material is covered with tarp, it should be fine. I've had my OSB under tarp (with holes in) and for a few days it's been rained on and got a little damp, but once the sun came out and dried them they were fine.


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## dedee (25 Sep 2006)

Good Luck Wizer,

I am an avid follow of these workshop build threads. I only hope that some of what you guys are learning sinks in to my grey matter for the day when I do mine.

Andy


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## j (26 Sep 2006)

WiZeR
Would it be possible to bring the wiring through from the first floor (if your roof goes that high. You could then go straight to a dedicated consumer unit for the workshop. Might be easier than going under the floor.

Also, I think it's worth looking at those fence panels and see if it's possible to remove them now and attach them with screws from the neighbour's side. At least then you'll have the option of access to that side of the workshop in the future.

HTH and good luck.
J


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## engineer one (26 Sep 2006)

WiZer, 
good luck. the first thought about your long term roof problem is to remind you to put dpc between the top beam and the side of the house, and remember once the roof is on to put proper flashing over the top to direct the rain to the gutter.

i think i agree that it might be sensible to make the fence panels removeable on the other side.

good luck

paul :wink:


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## wizer (26 Sep 2006)

j":36qyqlez said:


> Would it be possible to bring the wiring through from the first floor (if your roof goes that high. You could then go straight to a dedicated consumer unit for the workshop. Might be easier than going under the floor.



Actually the electric meter is mounted to the side of the house just infront of where the new roller door will be. So the wiring will come in from the side and then be run through the base for sockets on the opposite wall.



j":36qyqlez said:


> Also, I think it's worth looking at those fence panels and see if it's possible to remove them now and attach them with screws from the neighbour's side. At least then you'll have the option of access to that side of the workshop in the future.



Absolutely genius idea! I'd never have thought of that! Thanks, I have now removed the screws from my side so now it should be easy to move the fence panels from our neighbours side.



engineer one":36qyqlez said:


> the first thought about your long term roof problem is to remind you to put dpc between the top beam and the side of the house,



Not sure what you mean here Paul? Do you mean back the whole of the wall frame with DPM? I can't see the point in running just a strip behind the top beam? Or maybe I am barking up the wrong 2x4?


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## engineer one (26 Sep 2006)

wiz, call me a belt and braces man,but yes actually i would use
dpc between each piece of the frame and the wall. 
But if not, then at the very least what you are trying to ensure is that
where water is most likely to get in, ie at the interesection of the 
roof and wall, then you just have to ensure it is as difficult as
possible. 

anyway from someone whose 'umble workshop is in a room,
well done and good luck.

paul :wink:


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## wizer (26 Sep 2006)

*Day 2*

HOT HOT HOT! 8) 

Well the weather report was promising a little rain today and lots of cloud. So I was expecting a dull overcast kinda day. How wrong was I (and the weather man)! Thanks to all who wished good luck and did a little weather dance (or was that just me?), it seems it worked for today at least.

I started off at 9am cutting pieces for the base. My Dad arrived at about 10:30am and we quickly got the 2 base frames together. No real problems except a slight mis-measurement around the drain :roll: (my fault). 

Dad had to leave at about 14:00pm so I couldnt continue framing. I spent the rest of the day cutting all the components for the 2 walls. 






done me proud and made the job a breeze. Being able to cut two 2x4's at once saved a bit of time too. I left the dust bag on and it did filled up by the end of the day, lots of dust on the floor also.






Unfortuneatly my Dad can't help me tomorrow so I wont be able to do any framing. Because of space restrictions we have to construct the frames out on the road (quite cul-de-sac) and it's impossible for one person to move a frame back into place. I do have some jobs I can get one with. I'm going to paint all the wood with cheap shed paint, the dpm can be attatched to the base, then it can be laid down and leveled.

Hopefully with all the wall components now cut, Thursday will see the 2 walls erected, cladded and insulated. Also the front and back framing can be constructed.

Today has been really good. Maybe not as much got done as it could have, but i've enjoyed what we accomplished. The back seems to be holding out. I don't think its the lifting of heavy things that agravates it, more like the awkwark positions you end up in when nailing or 'persuading'. Tomorrow will also give me a chance to pop to wickes to check out the roofing materials.

phew...


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## wizer (26 Sep 2006)

cheers Paul, I will look into that.


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## engineer one (26 Sep 2006)

ok mate.
and as someone else who's back has some problems,
i agree it's not the lifting, it's the bending and the
odd angles at which you put stress on your back 
that cause the problem.

what you learn is to think about the movement before you 
make it so that you don't jerk things around.

paul :wink:


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## wizer (26 Sep 2006)

hehe my missus will agree with you, I should stop jerking around


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## wizer (27 Sep 2006)

*Day 3*

Not much to report today. I spent the whole day painting, painting and more painting. I really don't know where the time went. I managed to tack the DPM to one of the base frames. Surely water can get in through the staples tho?

Tomorrow will hopefully see 2 walls erected. Only problem is that rain is forecast #-o  

My Dad is desperately trying to persuade me to change my mind on using shiplap for the fence side wall. His reasoning is that it will never be seen so why not just use roofing felt? I can see his point but it bugs me for some reason, I'm not sure its the best material to use for an outside wall. Any thoughts on that?

Rain Rain go away, come back another day (like next week). [-o<


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## les chicken (27 Sep 2006)

You need something solid for an outside wall even for peace of mind. If the shiplap is not to be seen then how about the bitumen faced OSB board, or 12mm external ply with a good dowse of wood preserver.

Les


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## wizer (27 Sep 2006)

well it wad going to get a layer of 12mm undedr the felt or shiplap anyway. would shed preserver be good enough?


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## les chicken (27 Sep 2006)

I would use an oil base preserver will last longer and the oil will preserve the ply better re sealing the edges.

If you can remember when you visited, the pool room at the bottom of next doors garden only has shiplap where it can be seen, the rest of the building is external ply. No problems do not waste your money when shiplap is not needed.

Listen to DAD :wink: :wink: :wink: :roll: 

Les


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## wizer (27 Sep 2006)

SOLD!

Cheers Les, Very cunning. I thought that pool room was made from hand carved logs


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## wizer (28 Sep 2006)

*Day 4*

A more productive day today. 

Got the 2nd base frame covered in DPM and then the whole base was leveled. Constructed both walls (2 frames each) and erected them. House side wall was bolted and fence side wall has been braced.







Dad had to go again at 14:30pm which left me nailing in noggins. Just as I was having a bit of a clearup it started to rain. I quickly put a false front on the whole thing for security.






Tomorrow I am on my own again. Plenty to get on with tho. Floor needs insulating and boarding. All the wall sheets can be cut. The wiring can be run for the sockets. Plus some other bits and pieces.

Got help again on Saturday and hoping to board and felt the fence side wall. 

I predicted one week to get the base and walls completely finished which should work out right. If we'd had Monday then maybe the roof would have gone on.

Ah well, i'm rambling now


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## twister (28 Sep 2006)

WiZeR,
enjoying the story so far - great work  
when you're running the cable for the electrics you might consider running up and across the ceiling (protected by conduit), rather than under the floor. if you do then you can mount a double socket directly over the central area of your shop. this way cables from router table, table saw etc. can run directly up rather than across to side wall (where if you're like me you will keep falling over them :roll: )
if you decide to go for the 'under the floor route' then I think some floor mounted flush sockets would be useful http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 0&id=34645

I finished "restoring" my workshop last year (it's a WW2 anderson shelter :!: ), but it now looks like I may have to relocate in a few months time, so I'm finding all these workshop build threads inspirational
Keep up the good work


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## ByronBlack (28 Sep 2006)

Nice to see the progress coming along nicely Wizer - the frames seem to be going up quite quickly considering your back problem, look forward to seeing the rest!

Have you thought anymore about the roof - are you still thinking of getting a pro in??


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## wizer (29 Sep 2006)

Thanks Twister, good idea about the overhead power points, i'd allready planned for this. My leccy pal is coming round today to explain in detail how to run the cabling.

Byron. WRT the back... It's a case of no guts no glory. I was in absolute agony yesterday but all I could htink of was getting it done. This morning its clamed down a bit and theres no heavy lifting today,

The roof is still worrying me and tbh I have been putting it out of my mind a bit. I think we will end up doing it.


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## Inspector (29 Sep 2006)

WiZeR 

I've got a question to ask about the wall against the wall. Why a wall against the brick at all, rather than a plate bolted to the wall to attach the roof on that side to? My logic being that the brick should be strong enough to carry the roof loads (unless it's a nonstructural veneer) and that it's already heated on the other side so doesn't need to be insulated, not having it at all would give you a slight gain in inside width. Or is my Colonial logic off a bit?


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## garywayne (29 Sep 2006)

Twister, you stole my thunder, and I don't get much.

WiZeR, and Byron, I was going to suggest that you ran cable along the ceiling with dangling sockets in prominent areas. That way you have more area to play with your tools. eg: With the cable in the centre you can use the tool on both sides of your workshop without unplugging.

Keep up the good work. And thanks for you input.


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## wizer (29 Sep 2006)

aaggghhh RAIN! This thread is turning into a weather report!

I got down there at 9am and was welcomed by puddles! I had covered with tarps but I didnt have enough so puddles had formed between the joists on top of the membrane ](*,) 

I spent an hour bucketing out the water and drying with towels, then just as I was preparing to cut the floor boards.... Torrential! Its absolutely hammering it down! ](*,)

Quickly managed to cover it up again, this time with a couple of boards under the tarp, but still left some gaps.... so more toweling later 




Inspector":u5gf84l8 said:


> Why a wall against the brick at all, rather than a plate bolted to the wall to attach the roof on that side to? My logic being that the brick should be strong enough to carry the roof loads (unless it's a nonstructural veneer) and that it's already heated on the other side so doesn't need to be insulated, not having it at all would give you a slight gain in inside width.



Yeh I considered that, but I wanted that extra bit of insulation for noise and also for 'neatness' when it came to running sockets down there.


I'm off to have a swim in my new pool 

:evil:


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## ByronBlack (29 Sep 2006)

Wizer, your expreriancing the same thing I did last week, spent almost half a day inside combatting the 'blisters' of water developing between the joists - a real pain in the arris.

It's absolutely chucking it down here again today, which is annoying as I pulled a sickie from work to put the cladding on -- grrrr!


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## wizer (29 Sep 2006)

weather man reckons it will be dry by lunchtime... we'll see!


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## Inspector (29 Sep 2006)

> Yeh I considered that, but I wanted that extra bit of insulation for noise and also for 'neatness' when it came to running sockets down there.




Thanks. My curiosity is satiated


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## wizer (29 Sep 2006)

*Day 5*

Well it wasn't a complete wash out. It was slow though.

When the rain stopped I went down and decided the most important thing for me to do was get a solid floor down incase of further rain. I'm not sure where the time went but i only got 4 out of 5 boards down. It ended up being a fiddly job as the walls turned out to be not completley square. Plus dragging around sheets of 18mm 8x4 wbp with a bad back aint fun :roll: 

I was getting a bit stressed with how slow things where going earlier but I had a word with myself and decided that it was silly getting angry with it and that Rome wasn't built in a day. I'm building this myself partly to save money but also for the 'enjoyment'. So I chilled out and took my time.

Saying that, the weather report is bad for tomorrow which is a shame because I have help.

No pics as it doesnt look any different.


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## WellsWood (29 Sep 2006)

Hi Wizer,
Bummer about the weather, why don't you knock up a temporary shelter by screwing one of those big blue tarps from B&Q to the wall above your projected roofline and tying the other side down over the fence. You could even use a couple of your 4x2s on the fence side to get a bit more headroom if your neighbour wouldn't mind a couple of guy lines on his side for a day or 2. Hey presto, a nice dry work area. Forecast is a bit windy tomorrow so that might be a fly in the ointment but you can't have everything.

Good luck
Mark


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## ByronBlack (29 Sep 2006)

Wizer - don't worry about the pace of the project. I was getting worried about not getting mine completed in the two week window I had, but like you I remembered why I was doing it, and now i'm really enjoying the process, espeically today despite the weather.

Also, i've found, the slower I go, the better the finish. And surprisngly my progress feels a bit faster now that i've slowed down, because i'm thinking about things more, making less mistakes and constantly moving forward.


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## wizer (29 Sep 2006)

thanks Mark I may have to look into that. Back to work on Monday so realistically the roof could take a couple of weeks (as next weekend its Dad's 50th).


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## wizer (29 Sep 2006)

hehe cheers Byron, we won't mention mistakes today


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## wizer (1 Oct 2006)

*Day 6*

This is actually yesterday's report as I was far too hung over this morning to do any work :roll: 

Another productive day. It was decided that the roof was important, what with all the rain. So we set about getting that sorted.







Managed to get the rafters on and the ply sheets up.






We covered the roof with tarps but I am a little worried about the rain. We won't get to work on the roof again now until the weekend after next. The ply is WBP but i'm not sure if it will hold up unprotected for 2 weeks.


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## les chicken (1 Oct 2006)

WiZer

The ply should be ok, but make sure it has dried before you put the felt on. As the tip I sent to Byron give it a good splashing with anti rot treatment about £19 from wicks for 5litres. It will protect the ply when it sweats under the felt. 

Suggest you use heavy duty mineral felt not ordinary shed felt :wink: 

Les


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## ByronBlack (1 Oct 2006)

Wizer, your making good progress, a lot faster than my own build!

What size timbers are using for the roof joists?


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## wizer (1 Oct 2006)

Cheers Les, I'll give that a go.

Byron, they're 2x4's on the 4" edge. I know, I know, but we tried it out and it took both our weight standing on it without much deflection at all. I'm guessing that it wont often have that sort of weight on it.


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## PowerTool (1 Oct 2006)

WiZeR - as Les said,the ply will be fine - I used some 6mm WBP ply for the panel in a garden gate earlier this year,so outside and subject to rain all the time (but not immersed,obviously) and there is no sign of any deterioration of any kind.
So if it does get wet,just let it dry out and I'm sure it will be okay.

Andrew

P.S. - looking good  ,easy to visualise the finished size now.


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## wizer (2 Oct 2006)

ok no more daily updates as I'm back to work now. I will update as and when I do any work. Feel free to fall asleep 

I thought i'd make a start on boarding the outside wall next to the fence. Only had a couple of hours and I was taking my time, managed to get one board fixed and another one cut.






However, The sheets I am using are 12mm Sheathing Ply. I'm not keen on the quality. It's very rough and not exactly flat. I'm considering using 12mm WBP (which would mean tonight's work would have been a waste :roll: ). 

What do you think guys? Stick with the Sheathing or go with WBP? There is obviously a large price difference, but it will stay within budget.


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## JFC (3 Oct 2006)

If your going for WBP why not stick the sheathing ply on the inside . To give maximum strength to the structure the ply should span as many studs as possible so laying them horizontal and off setting the vertical joints would be better if you are going to do the inside . If you are leaving it as a ply finish on the outside then laying them horizontal is going to let water in .
P.S 4x2 is fine on a pitched roof .


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## wizer (3 Oct 2006)

cheers JFC. I have 18mm WBP for the internal sheeting. The external sheeting will be covered with felt and fixed vertically.

The more I think about it the more I want to use the WBP for external sheeting. That sheathing stuff is a load of rubbish. 

More cutting tonight then, if dry.


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## les chicken (3 Oct 2006)

WiZer

You definitely need to use wbp on the outside, but do not waste money on felt just cover with oil base preservative.

Les


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## wizer (14 Oct 2006)

Well progress has been slow. What with last weekend being busy and lots of rain.

I did manage to get out there during the week and make a guide rail for the sheeting. This was mentioned on the forum a while ago and it jogged my memory to make one. It makes cutting the boards a doddle.






I used this to cut all the external boards. It was a bit awkward fixing the boards on my own but I got there in the end.

Today I had help for a bit and we got on with fixing the last couple of external boards and then set about fixing the head posts that will go above the door. I have decided against the roller door at the front as it would mean only having 6ft headroom (i'm 6ft4). This also saves me about £500. The posts were fixed with halving joints. It was the first time i'd done this type of joint. My Dad thought it'd be a fiddle setting up the saw to do the tranching so we (he) did the first post by hand. This got good results and the first post went in well. He then had to leave and I was left to do the front one on my own. I 'fiddled' with the SCMS and got good results. It would have been much quicker if I hadn't cut the post too short! ](*,) 
Luckily I had another post and quickly chopped out the rebates.






So there it is. Not an emense amount of work, but its coming on slowly. Me and Dad where talking about the roof again. I think we both agree that depending on cost it would be best to get a roofer to do it (I did save £500 on the roller door). I just dont feel confident that we'd get it perfect. The corrogated roof panels are an option but it would be as expensive as employing a roofer and would stop me having roof lights. Time is also an issue and if we can get a pro in to sort this out quickly then it would be money well spent. I'm going to have a ring round for quotes this week.


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## ByronBlack (15 Oct 2006)

Wizer

I really can't see the benefit of paying for a pro roofer, the corrugated panels only cost me about £160 all in and I doubt a roofer would charge you any less than this as he has to pay for the materials as well.

It took me no more than about 2 hours to fit - very easy! You can also get roof-lights to fit the profile of the corrugation. So these are still an option.

A roofer is going to cost a fair bit, and that £500 you saved - you could use that for something smart like a wood-stove or a decent dust-extraction unit.

I would seriously put some thought to it, after doing it myself, all future projects will see me doing the roof, it's not a hard job to get right.


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## JFC (15 Oct 2006)

Wizer , i think a man of your skills could handle the roof with ease . 
You can hire a burner and use the torch on stuff . I would put aris rails along the ends and house side to lip the felt over and also grind out one of the mortar courses in the house brick work to take a lead flashing.


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## wizer (18 Oct 2006)

hmmm still mulling it over. In the meantime MarkW helped me cut the profile for the timber that connects the roof to the wall.






Fits perfectly! The angles where a bit of a head scratcher but we (Mark actually) worked it out in the end. 

The offcuts will also be useful on the front and back projection to stop the rain spilling over the front.

Thanks very much Mark, was great to see another workshop, tried not to be jelous of 'all that space'!


The next time I have help is this coming Sunday. We are hoping to finish the outside wall and if things go quick we may attempt the roof...... Rain forecast tho


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## WellsWood (18 Oct 2006)

WiZeR":2pkxmj2y said:


> Thanks very much Mark, was great to see another workshop, tried not to be jelous of 'all that space'!
> 
> 
> The next time I have help is this coming Sunday. We are hoping to finish the outside wall and if things go quick we may attempt the roof...... Rain forecast tho



You're most welcome Wizer, nice to put a face to a name (never did ask where the name comes from BTW :wink 

Yes shame about the forecast, still they say dry on Sat and Mon so you may be lucky. In the event you don't get to the roof for a couple of weeks I may have some time to come and give you a hand.

Just one thing, your pic seems to show the edge of one of your rafters which appears to be 4x2 laid on it's side. If so, and if they're not fixed permanently, you should consider turning them on edge. Not only will they be about 4 times stronger but you'll get twice as much insulation in there. Of course there may be a good reason why they'e like that that I've missed in your thread, in which case I'll shut up ...... 

Mark


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## Shultzy (18 Oct 2006)

Sorry I'm a bit late on this post, but it might give food for though for anybody who's building a similar shed. You could made the roof fall from front to back. This would have allowed you to put the outside wall on the boundary and you would have had a shorter length of guttering.


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## wizer (19 Oct 2006)

Mark:

That's a kind offer mate, i'll let you know what happens on Sunday. Of course, your welcome to come and help anytime you like. 

I hear what your saying about the rafters. We did it that way basically for speed and ease. In terms of strength I think it is fine, it took 2 of us walking around up there with virtually no deflection. I dont think that the odd snow fall will really be a problem. The insulation is a good point that I hadn't considered. Not sure what i'll do. Certainly turning them on end will mean knocking them back out (they're nailed). Then I imagine they're going to be too short after the birdsmouth has been cut. Ordering more timber will be a pain. I'm not dissmissing it tho, will chew it over.


Shultzy:

Good point, I did consider it. But we (the Mrs) deemed it to be an ugly solution. Still, no going back now.


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## wizer (23 Oct 2006)

*Mini Update:*

Sunday was prety much a wash out! 

I got up early and managed to install the frame (jamb?) around the door ways. When Dad arrived it was 'spitting'. We went round to the neighbours side, took out the fence panels and as we got the last one out the rain started to pour. We where feeling brave so we staightened up the wall boards and put proper fixings in to make it secure, but by the time we'd done this the rain was so heavy that to continue would have been bonkers. We waited an hour for the rain to stop, but it didnt and we wrote the day off. It continued to rain all day.

So a bit depressing really. Have to wait til next Saturday now and hope the weather is on our side.

*Note to self*: Never build a workshop in October.


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## PowerTool (23 Oct 2006)

WiZeR":3ojbz464 said:


> *Note to self*: Never build a workshop in October.



Mine's brick,and built in January/February 2005
Wouldn't recommend building one then,either  (that cold,some days I had to wait for it to get above +4 to be able to lay any bricks)

Andrew


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