# A simple garden chainsaw mill



## Walney Col (17 Nov 2014)

Just about to start making an electric chainsaw mill for use with small(ish) logs. Not having a workshop (or even fences separating our garden from those of our neighbours) it was important to design something that'd blend innocuously into the background when not in use and this is what I've dome up with.

















The mill will be built entirely from around 7m of 2x4 joist and a 4' long piece of 18mm ply (total lose less than £20) and should mill anything up to 4' long x 12' diameter using a 16" makita electric saw or similar. I'll be videoing the build and adding the plans + a write up to my web site in due course but if anyone finds it interesting the sketchup plans as they stand can already be downloaded from http://www.seafax.co.uk/index.php?id=electric-chainsaw-mill

Col.


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## themackay (17 Nov 2014)

Looks intresting ,look forward to seeing finished article


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## Woodmonkey (17 Nov 2014)

Good luck trying to run a chainsaw along a wooden rail, sorry to be negative but I can't see that lasting very long


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## RobinBHM (17 Nov 2014)

It looks like the chainsaw bar is bolted to the timber slide, so the rail should last ok.

I do wonder all the saw dust will clog the rail as you try and move it along.

It may be tricky to keep the cut parallel?


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## Graham Orm (17 Nov 2014)

Rip cutting logs with an electric chain saw isn't going to happen...for very long at least. That rig looks like it will be a struggle at best. If you want consistent cuts with it you'll need a way of carrying the weight of the saw while you push it along. Sorry to be negative, but the beauty of a forum is that you get input from others, and mine would be. Petrol chain saw, metal frame to carry it's weight. Maybe with casters or skateboard wheels built in?


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## Woodmonkey (17 Nov 2014)

RobinBHM":14x8wc2t said:


> It looks like the chainsaw bar is bolted to the timber slide, so the rail should last ok.
> 
> I do wonder all the saw dust will clog the rail as you try and move it along.
> 
> It may be tricky to keep the cut parallel?



Yes sorry I didn't see that the saw was attached to the slide.... Could work, but agree that an electric saw will struggle.


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## powertools (17 Nov 2014)

The op did say smallish logs so an electric saw could well work.


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## dejaa (17 Nov 2014)

Hi

I'm sorry if I missed something, but not quite sure what you're trying to achieve? Is the saw fixed? and you push the log into it? surely not! How are you going to achieve consistent thickness along the cuts? 

Why not just get an "Alaskan Mill"? They're not that expensive even new, and would enable you to cut your smallish logs and even complete boules into pretty accurate thickness boards that could be actually be of some use when seasoned and dried.

Actually the provenance of locally sourced timber is a great selling feature to a number of quality cabinetmakers, I'm sure you would find a local market for any such cut timber that was an excess to your own needs? and now you have a new business?

David


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## Zeddedhed (17 Nov 2014)

Don't listen to all the naysayers - go ahead and make it. If it doesn't work refine it and keep on refining it until it does what you want.
Then you can triumphantly post a load of pics on here and a set of sketchup plans and we'll all congratulate you on your perseverance and tenacity and make one for ourselves.
Go for it.


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## woodfarmer (17 Nov 2014)

I think you will need to support both ends of the chain bar or else you will get tapered and wiggly cuts.

Despite all the Alaskan mills cutting straight on etc It is better to have the chain angled so as to actually rip a bit and not be at 90 degrees and only cut across the ends of the grain. Make sure it cuts with the grain IE the chain is pulling down off not pushing the ends up.

As has been said a small alaskan mill may be a better bet, just put it in the shed when not in use.

Also use a ripping chain. Not your normal cross cut one.


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## Benchwayze (17 Nov 2014)

Would a scaffold pole (or maybe two or three side by side) be a better guide? Never used a chainsaw, so excuse me being ridiculous; if I am ! (hammer)


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## Walney Col (17 Nov 2014)

Thanks for the feedback chaps. A bit more explanation of my ideas to address a few points raised...

I'm not suggesting for one moment that my design is suitable for large scale production or constant use. I'm a retired elderly gent in pretty poor health who fancies cutting maybe half a dozen 4' long 12" diameter logs per year for use on my scroll saw and mini lathe. By that token there's no way on earth that an alaskan mill would represent good value for money even if there was enough room in my shed to store it which there isn't. The real beauty of my design is in it's extreme simplicity and the fact that it can be left outside all year round without making the garden look unsightly.

And as for a petrol chainsaw... As already mentioned this is for use in a domestic setting and the neighbours living room window is maybe 6' from our shared garden boundary and I doubt very much they'd appreciate the noise of petrol saw when there's a viable electric alternative and I for one wouldn't blame them. They can barely hear my electric saw and there's plenty of examples on youtube of how they perform.

Ripping chain... Yes. I'm going to try it with the supplied cross cut chain to start with but if it struggles I fully intend to either buy a ripping chain or re-sharpen the one I have to more of a ripping chain profile.

Weight of the saw... this isn't a problem... at least not for the duration of a cut. The slide that the blade is bolted to is only 3-sided however and I envision that it may loosen up slightly on it's rail with time but it's only made of wood and it would be a small matter to make a new one - or even make a replacement out of steel since it's such a simple piece :-





The rail on the back of the "seat" (see next image) is what determines whether the cut is consistent or not. Either end of the rail can be raised or lowered as desired to cut any thickness I like and I could even cut deliberately tapered planks should I ever need them.


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## Walney Col (17 Nov 2014)

Benchwayze":1daiwrvq said:


> Would a scaffold pole (or maybe two or three side by side) be a better guide? Never used a chainsaw, so excuse me being ridiculous; if I am ! (hammer)


It might be a bit more rigid, but it'd look a whole lot less like a garden bench! 

Col.


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## dickm (18 Nov 2014)

Good luck, mate! As another elderly gent, will be interested to see how it works out. Only note of caution is to mention that trying a rip cut with an older Maculloch electric saw a few years back produced an interesting pile of little pieces of plastic when the intermediate (plastic) gear stripped. No doubt Makitas are better made (they are Dolmars, after all  ), but go carefully.
On my round tuit list and in a bag on the workshop floor, are the steel sections to weld up my own Alaskan mill, but somehow it keeps getting pushed down the list by one thing and another. if it does get made, there is a 20" stihl 048 waiting to sit in it.


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## Graham Orm (18 Nov 2014)

Electric chainsaws are a DIY tool, simple as that. Designed for cross cutting thin logs. I really think you should have a go at rip cutting a 12 inch log with one first.


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## Walney Col (18 Nov 2014)

Grayorm":eci3ubue said:


> Electric chainsaws are a DIY tool, simple as that. Designed for cross cutting thin logs. I really think you should have a go at rip cutting a 12 inch log with one first.


I don't have to. Others have done it for me.


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## Graham Orm (18 Nov 2014)

OK good luck then. Do you have any links to YT videos at all?


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## woodfarmer (18 Nov 2014)

I can rip logs with my Ikra electric chainsaw with no bother, in fact it is at least as good a friends large professional petrol Stil.


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## Terry - Somerset (19 Nov 2014)

A couple of thoughts:

Any movement/twist in the slide will multiply at the end of the saw - for example a 1mm gap between the side of the rail and slide will allow the end of the saw to move up/down by approx 5mm giving a wonky cut/more wastage/more finishing. This could be reduced with a lower as well as upper guide rail which would hold the slide more firmly in the right plane.

I would also consider using wheels to roll on the top rail rather than rely on a (hopefully) fairly frictionless softwood slide/rail interface. This would allow the slide to move smoothly rather sticking/jerking mid cut.

Good luck!

Terry


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## dickm (19 Nov 2014)

Just thinking aloud, but might a wooden version of an Alaskan mill be feasible? 
Certainly have doubts about only having a guide on one side and relying on that to keep the saw at right angles. And +1 for making sure that the tip of the saw is leading, rather than lagging, in the cut.


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## Water-Mark (20 Nov 2014)

I think this will live or die by the standard of chain used, a poorly or unevenly sharpened chain will find it's own way through the log and any attempt to hold it straight will only result in jamming.

That said I have planked cherry and yew free hand ( albeit with a large petrol chainsaw ) it wasn't perfect and would have needed a lot of finishing if used for any kind of fine work but because the chain was sharpened evenly it cut straight boards.

If you're prepared to take your time ( and it sounds like you're prepared for this ) I think it'll work just fine, be good to see pictures of the progress and any results.


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## Walney Col (6 Dec 2014)

I've finalised the plans and almost completed the woodwork. Just the chainsaw guide to go now which I'll be making out of steel.

















And an animation of the above 4 images:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmS1SeDqLhw

I'll post proper photos in a day or two and a short video of the first few cuts.

Col.


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## JimF. (6 Dec 2014)

Walney Col":2wlin229 said:


> I've finalised the plans and almost completed the woodwork. Just the chainsaw guide to go now which I'll be making out of steel.



Amazing drawings! You're seriously specifying 299.3mm as a measurement for part of something to be made of wood? Something wooden that's going to be stored outside? Really?

Sorry if I sound incredulous, disrespectful, ignorant, mocking or any combination thereof, but fractions of a millimetre? Good luck with that.


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## Walney Col (6 Dec 2014)

Is that honestly the most intelligent thing you have to say Julian, because if it is you really are thick.


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## nanscombe (6 Dec 2014)

Julian":bryc5nci said:


> Sorry if I sound incredulous, disrespectful, ignorant, mocking or any combination thereof, but fractions of a millimetre? Good luck with that.



You probably does not realise how precisely he can cut a 308.7 mm slot.

A few light strokes with a round file should be sufficient to finesse that. Either that or undo the nuts and adjust the whole back.

:wink: :lol:


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## JimF. (6 Dec 2014)

Walney Col":160yekbz said:


> Is that honestly the most intelligent thing you have to say Julian, because if it is you really are thick.



OK. It was my attempt at humour. I was gently ribbing you about the incongruity of a drawing showing a wood based item with a key distance specified as 299.3mm. At least I read your post and spent time looking at your images. You have to admit that there is something a little rum about some of the measurements in the diagrams. I like numbers and I understand 300mm. But I don't get 299.3mm. What has happened to that 0.7mm? Has it been removed for a reason I don't see? 

The danger is that such computerised drawings convey the impression of professionalism and validity because they are superficially correct. All the numbers add up. All the pieces fit. But surely no even half-trained draughtsman would ever produce such a work. To my eyes it is a nonsense, beyond parody. 

The reason for challenging you on this is to protect the uninitated, who may look upon your drawings as things to be emulated, and point out the absurdities therein. If it prompts you to master the CAD program and produce sensibly dimensioned drawings in future then my time on earth will not have been wasted!

DISCLAIMER: I make no assertions about the quality of my own work. My failings are many & varied.


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## nanscombe (6 Dec 2014)

I think you missed the part where I said that the back is positioned using a 308*.7* mm slot (second picture). :wink:

If he just made it a 308 / 309 mm slot it would cure the problem of fractional mm measurements. The measurement of the slot is probably not so critical in the overall scheme of things.


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## Graham Orm (6 Dec 2014)

Julian. Can I suggest that you do some research on Sketchup before embarrassing yourself further?


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## nanscombe (6 Dec 2014)

Can I suggest reading the thread, including the admission to the attempt at humour, before being judgemental.


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## Graham Orm (6 Dec 2014)

He wasn't funny, just sarcastic and condescending.



Julian":1iewoccz said:


> The reason for challenging you on this is to protect the uninitated, who may look upon your drawings as things to be emulated, and point out the absurdities therein. If it prompts you to master the CAD program and produce sensibly dimensioned drawings in future then my time on earth will not have been wasted!


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## nanscombe (6 Dec 2014)

Grayorm":29oan3e1 said:


> He wasn't funny, just sarcastic and condescending.



And your motivation was ... what?


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## JimF. (6 Dec 2014)

Grayorm":5qw95b1j said:


> Julian. Can I suggest that you do some research on Sketchup before embarrassing yourself further?



I am not embarassed. I'm not putting out ridiculous drawings exhibiting delusional claims of accuracy and resolution. 299.3mm for heaven's sake! What kind of idiotic, innumerate rubbish is that?

The package the OP is using is irrelevant. My judgement of the drawing should not be tempered by the knowledge of the quirks of the software used to produce it. If Sketchup cannot perform correctly and enough people complain then maybe it'll get changed. Or maybe not.


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## JimF. (6 Dec 2014)

Grayorm":2h9zflhd said:


> He wasn't funny, just sarcastic and condescending.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That was *after* I was called thick! 

*To the OP:* Sorry for hi-jacking your thread and causing a bit of a ruckus in the middle there. I'll away back to the hand tools area now and keep quiet for a bit. Perhaps I'll go down to the workshop and start a fight with myself over sharpening!


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## nanscombe (6 Dec 2014)

Julian":1di6cbqv said:


> ...If Sketchup cannot perform correctly and enough people complain then maybe it'll get changed. Or maybe not.



Nothing wrong with Sketchup's maths, as far as I know, just an arbitrary fractional measurement caused by the semi circular end of a slot.

There is another fractional measurement elsewhere in the plan (413.7 mm) but who really cares about a difference in size which is possibly smaller than a saw kerf.

0.7mm is less than 1/32 of an inch.


(Amended quote ... deleted wrong part of original text)


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## Graham Orm (6 Dec 2014)

You have mis quoted me there nanscombe I never wrote that.

Edit. Mis-quote corrected, thank you.


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## Graham Orm (6 Dec 2014)

nanscombe":gjctm7iw said:


> Grayorm":gjctm7iw said:
> 
> 
> > He wasn't funny, just sarcastic and condescending.
> ...



My motivation was that no-one in their right mind would expect that the OP was suggesting that you cut wood to a tenth of a millimetre. Julian picked up on what was a totally irrelevant point and used it to attack the OP and his post, which he has done again since. Hoping to prove to all how clever he is.

The OP has obviously put a great deal of effort into the design and no doubt the making of this project. I personally am not a fan of his idea but am waiting with interest to see the outcome. I would not have dreamed of making sarcastic, insulting and scathing remarks to try and score points on the forum.


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## nanscombe (6 Dec 2014)

Grayorm":31omwfhg said:


> You have mis quoted me there nanscombe I never wrote that.



Okey dokey, amended quote.

Of course, since it is probably an arbitrary measurement all the OP actually has to do is to drop the whole back assembly by .7 mm, or raise it by .3mm, (assuming a mouse / trackpad within the necessary accuracy), retake the pictures and amend the rogue measurement. Alternatively, just not bother.



Grayorm":31omwfhg said:


> ... My motivation was that no-one in their right mind would expect that the OP was suggesting that you cut wood to a tenth of a millimetre. ...



The weird thing is that the measurement seems to be caused by the position of the back in relation to the base by use of a slot so that measurement, unless it is the maximum height, purely depends on the length of said slot in the wood anyway.


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## wizard (6 Dec 2014)

where is NEV when you need him :roll:


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## paulrockliffe (6 Dec 2014)

I was hoping the latest posts contained the promised video, rather than a load of rubbish about measurements.

I'm sure the OP could measure and cut that length to a tenth of a mm if he wanted though.


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## Walney Col (6 Dec 2014)

paulrockliffe":omhpel6c said:


> I was hoping the latest posts contained the promised video, rather than a load of rubbish about measurements.
> 
> I'm sure the OP could measure and cut that length to a tenth of a mm if he wanted though.



Edited out a messed up reply to a totally different forum member. My appolgies if you've already sen it Paul, I was confusing you with someone else.

Col.


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## Walney Col (6 Dec 2014)

Julian":3lwb9jrw said:


> Grayorm":3lwb9jrw said:
> 
> 
> > Julian. Can I suggest that you do some research on Sketchup before embarrassing yourself further?
> ...



If you had just an ounce of imagination and forethough you'd realise that that particular dimension is reliant on how far the back rail was raised and could just have easily read anywhere between 0 and 309mm or even seeing as it's you just plain "7" in line with your IQ.

You'll no doubt be happy to know I've amended the plans now so that even you are in with a chance of understanding them.







If you don't like 309mm just give me a shout and I'll make it any size you like.

Col.


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## doorframe (6 Dec 2014)

This thread just shows what a waste of time it is to put your ideas 'out there'. 

Whether an idea is good or bad, sensible or silly, safe or dangerous, there's always some one who's been there, seen it, done it, got the T shirt, knows better than you, is a legend in their own tea break, and who's voice is muffled by his trousers, that feels the need to criticise just for the sake of criticism. 

Go for it WC.


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## Water-Mark (6 Dec 2014)

At the risk of being bombarded with buns dare i make an on topic point/question?.

I've got no experience with electric chainsaws so this may be irrelevant but will it ballance ok?.

I only ask as i know a petrol saw would want to tip the nose in the air if balanced without additional support at the tip.
I hope i'm not coming across as a nay sayer, i really want this to work.

Awesome drawings though, not sure how much building i'd get done if i could do that.


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## monkeybiter (6 Dec 2014)

I think in suggesting any variation you are proving a complete lack of intelligence and failed attempt at humour, you may be promptly set upon by a pack of hounds for your lack of deference. :wink: :twisted: 

This thread is much better than the anticipated Sound of Music or even a Sharpening Wars re-run. Prod prod. :twisted:


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## Walney Col (6 Dec 2014)

Water-Mark":1wzucs3v said:


> At the risk of being bombarded with buns dare i make an on topic point/question?.
> 
> I've got no experience with electric chainsaws so this may be irrelevant but will it ballance ok?.



The short answer is that until I try it I don't really know. Certainly the weight of the saw over the back of the bench would want to tip the end up the blade up... but the action of cutting the wood would have exactly the opposite effect... i.e. a distinct tendency to pull the saw towards the wood which would in turn tip the end of the blade down. Hopefully the two opposing forces would at least approximately cancel each other.

Col.


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## Water-Mark (6 Dec 2014)

One of these somewhere?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/32159303 ... 108&ff19=0


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## Walney Col (6 Dec 2014)

I don't think that'd be necessary Mark. Let's say for argument's sake that the weight of the saw hanging off the back makes the blade tilt up by 3 degrees... none of the cuts wouldn be parallel to the top of the "seat" - but so long as every cut is tilted at the same 3 degree angle the boards coming off will still all be parallel which is what's most required.


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## Graham Orm (7 Dec 2014)

doorframe":1jy0vyf9 said:


> This thread just shows what a waste of time it is to put your ideas 'out there'.
> 
> Whether an idea is good or bad, sensible or silly, safe or dangerous, there's always some one who's been there, seen it, done it, got the T shirt, knows better than you, is a legend in their own tea break, and who's voice is muffled by his trousers, that feels the need to criticise just for the sake of criticism.
> 
> Go for it WC.



Always the case with a forum, but as long as it's civil you can always take something from it. Sadly there will always be troll's who, from the safety of their keyboard attack for their own entertainment.


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## paulm (7 Dec 2014)

The design should work okay I think. 

I have a commercially made small alaskan mill attachment for my chainsaws and they are really quite simple, just metal tube framework and a bracket or two for adjustment, nothing much to them really, just act as a guide to run on a flat surface, so no magic or rocket science involved.

The saw itself should work okay but may be a bit slow cutting due to small teeth size on the chain and limited power, but if kept sharp, filed rip if you like, it should get there after a while.

Good luck and looking forwards to seeing some video 

Cheers, Paul


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## Random Orbital Bob (7 Dec 2014)

I'll add my ten-penneth. You should definitely ignore the nay sayers and definitely allow real world use to guide any mods you make to what is simply a prototype. The concept of the prototype is of course extremely tried and tested. No idea for anything of value was ever finished at "version 1" so my advice is make it, test it, refine it based on how it works under stress.

Constructive criticism of design ideas is useful if the intent is to genuinely help you avoid making costly or time consuming errors. Sniping out of spite or just plain insulting says a lot more about flaws in the authors personality than it does about any design on the table!

I for one will be genuinely interested to see how it turns out.


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## DiscoStu (7 Dec 2014)

Let me first start by saying I know nothing about chainsaws or ripping logs like this. So feel free to call me an silly person! 

Just from looking at the drawing I have some questions / concerns

Won't the chainsaw vibrate? This would lead to wobble in the cut. 

The base of the unit is 1800mm long and you said you wanted to cut logs that were 4ft long, so surely you need a base that is more than double that length otherwise you be having to manually support and feed the log in and out. So I think you'd want at least 9ft base. 

Lastly and I can't believe I'm the only one who thinks this, what about safety. How do you feed the log in? What happens about kickback? With a chainsaw you have a handle on the top that stops the saw if it kicks back. If you get kickback what happens? The force has to go somewhere, I can see it twisting the bar and the chain flying off. To me the idea is massively dangerous. 

If it's only for 6 logs a year can you just get your local timber mill to do it for you, or just buy the wood in? 

I can't help but think that someone is going to lose a limb etc.


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## paulm (7 Dec 2014)

Think you've misunderstood the fundamentals Stu ! 

The log stays static and the saw runs along the rail.

You still use the top handle to help push the saw into the wood so in the event of kickback (unlikely in this situation) would still operate the chain brake, and the operator is not standing in line with the bar and chain in any event.

Cheers, Paul


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## DiscoStu (7 Dec 2014)

paulm":39n0acag said:


> Think you've misunderstood the fundamentals Stu !



It certainly won't be the first time!

It makes a lot more sense to me now and seems a lot safer!

That explains why nobody else was concerned about safety!

So based on my new knowledge, I'd say that the rail it runs along will need to be sufficiently deep and wide to provide good stability. I would be concerned about it being made out of wood and left outside all year as it will want to slide smoothly. I'm sure sanding a good hardwood and oiling / waxing could sort that.


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## Rhossydd (7 Dec 2014)

paulm":2lbc5p5m said:


> the operator is not standing in line with the bar and chain in any event.


They would be. It could rotate if one of the securing bolts failed and would strike at leg level.
It seems rather bold of an "elderly gent in pretty poor health" to start chainsawing with a rig like this. 
The whole idea looks dangerous to me. I wouldn't stand within ten feet of it in action and would have 999 on speed dial.
The problem with chain saws is that you don't have minor accidents with them.


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## paulm (7 Dec 2014)

Rhossydd":3syrtejg said:


> paulm":3syrtejg said:
> 
> 
> > the operator is not standing in line with the bar and chain in any event.
> ...



It would be used the same way I use my alaskan mill, right hand on the top handle, left hand on the main handle and throttle, using mainly the right hand to push the saw into the wood.

In the unlikely event a securing bolt failed (how could it ?), the saw wouldn't go anywhere as you're still holding it fully with two hands, and in any event the chain brake would still operate if needed.

I'm all for caution and safety, but don't actually see any issues with safety here. Maybe it's just that I have used an alaskan mill quite a bit in the past so have a bit more knowledge and confidence in them.

Cheers, Paul


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## Water-Mark (7 Dec 2014)

Another experienced chainsaw operator here and i don't see the safetey issues either.
Kick back occurs when the nose of the bar contacts either at low rpm or something solid.
I can't see those occuring here where the nose will be clear and visable at all times.

I'd be more than happy to operate a machine of this design.


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## Random Orbital Bob (7 Dec 2014)

+1 for experienced chainsaw use. This design is MORE safe than holding a chainsaw by hand because kickback is close to impossible without the nose in contact with something and further the machine is secured with bolts...far more secure than just by hand. Its just a variant on the Alaskan Mill which is a tried, tested and commercially successful product. It has all the normal safety features PLUS the fact its secured. One should of course wear all the usual safety related clothing including ear defenders, full face mask and chaps or reinforced trousers of some type as you would normally in chainsaw work.


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## bugbear (7 Dec 2014)

The decimal place thing is just maths - imagine (if you wlll)
I want to make a quick brace for a brick wall, out of cut
branches from my log pile. I decide that the base and vertical
will be "about a metre", so I throw this into Sketchup.

I then decide I want a triangulated brace, so
I slap a diagonal piece onto it.

"Obviously" this piece will be 1.41421356237 metres long, won't it?

BugBear


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## Rhossydd (7 Dec 2014)

paulm":2fxn3kwe said:


> Maybe it's just that I have used an alaskan mill quite a bit in the past so have a bit more knowledge and confidence in them.


From what I can see there's important differences between the 'Alaskan mill' style rig that secures both ends of the saw and keeps it parallel and are generally well engineered out of metal, from this type of wooden lash up.
The ability to control a chainsaw working at almost full capacity maybe fine for those with experience, properly equipped, fully fit and strong, but a novice "elderly gent in pretty poor health" trying to start from scratch sounds an accident waiting to happen to me.


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## paulm (7 Dec 2014)

Rhossydd":1b51la0n said:


> paulm":1b51la0n said:
> 
> 
> > Maybe it's just that I have used an alaskan mill quite a bit in the past so have a bit more knowledge and confidence in them.
> ...



Mine doesn't secure both ends of the saw, only one, which is all that's needed with a short to medium length bar.

Also think it's far from being a "lash up", quite thoughtfully designed if you ask me 

Cheers, Paul


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## dzj (7 Dec 2014)

As paulm said, you'd need a rip filed chain and it would be a bit slow because it lacks power, but it should work.
This one does in any case.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJOvnsMJHJ8


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## doorframe (7 Dec 2014)

dzj":18n1gvqw said:


> As paulm said, you'd need a rip filed chain and it would be a bit slow because it lacks power, but it should work.
> This one does in any case.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJOvnsMJHJ8



He made that look positively easy. And if you watch really closely, you can see him set the fine adjuster to 299.3mm.


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## Owl (7 Dec 2014)

I have explained in previous posts that I'm not a woodworker and also know absolutely nothing about chainsaws so feel free to shoot me down if my questions are stupid.

Does the 'chain' stick out further than the 'blade' on a chainsaw as they do on a tablesaw blade ?
If so, wouldn't this mean they are in contact with the wood rail that the saw blade is bolted to ? or is there a spacer between the blade and the wood rail ?


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## Water-Mark (7 Dec 2014)

Yes the chain is wider than the bar and will need to be spaced off the bracket its fixed to.

I'm sure thats been factored in but even a couple of thick washers would suffice if not.


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## Owl (7 Dec 2014)

Thanks for the quick reply Mark ..... that's solved the puzzle for me.


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## nanscombe (7 Dec 2014)

Grayorm":2bo9kfu3 said:


> ...
> Always the case with a forum, but as long as it's civil you can always take something from it. Sadly there will always be troll's who, from the safety of their keyboard attack for their own entertainment



Then there are the "unofficial" moderators.


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## Walney Col (7 Dec 2014)

I did mention a couple of days ago that the original wood slider was going to be replaced with a metal one...

Something along these lines, though I've jet to make a start have only just managed to get my hands on some 10mm thick steel and a pal's welder, and with everything having to be made on the back step in the freezing cold it's not going to arrive tomorrow.






The handle is an optional extra for winching the slide along the back of the bench but it'll only ever be added if I try pushing it along by hand and can't cope.

Col.


----------



## dickm (8 Dec 2014)

Since you have access to a welder and an admirable can-do outlook, why not go for the full Alaskan mill design? Could be simpler aand work better in the long run?


----------



## Graham Orm (8 Dec 2014)

Col, I think for this to work you will have to overcome a lot of friction between the carriage and the back of the bench. How about designing in a couple of wheels that will run along the top of the bench rail and possibly something front and back to keep it straight?
Something like this 2 top 4 front and 4 back will help it travel.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/fixed-castor- ... 2ed0e97988


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## paulm (8 Dec 2014)

Like the wheels idea ! 

Cheers, Paul


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## John Brown (8 Dec 2014)

dickm":14m8ackl said:


> Since you have access to a welder and an admirable can-do outlook, why not go for the full Alaskan mill design? Could be simpler aand work better in the long run?



If you read the entire thread, it's because he wants a stealth mill, that looks to all intents and purposes like a garden bench.


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## Graham Orm (8 Dec 2014)

dzj":3u21l0dw said:


> As paulm said, you'd need a rip filed chain and it would be a bit slow because it lacks power, but it should work.
> This one does in any case.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJOvnsMJHJ8



My bet is that an electric chain saw will stall or burn out trying to do this, it's just not what they're designed for. I'm watching with interest.


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## paulm (8 Dec 2014)

Grayorm":1miw8x8q said:


> dzj":1miw8x8q said:
> 
> 
> > As paulm said, you'd need a rip filed chain and it would be a bit slow because it lacks power, but it should work.
> ...



I would be worried about that too with cheaper diy type electric saws, but I think a Makita was mentioned towards the start of the thread and they are pretty robust ones, miles better than the cheapies from the sheds. 

I used mine a couple of months ago for a major firewood session as it was more suited to the continual pick up put down routine involved than my petrol huskies, and I was reminded just how good it was even on some limited slabbing I did with it when I had a piece of timber that was too good for the firewood pile !

It obviously won't be as quick or powerful as a decent petrol one with a coarser chain, but if kept sharp and topped up with oil it should get the job done I reckon on modest sized logs.

Cheers, Paul


----------



## Walney Col (8 Dec 2014)

dickm":n3r7rbyd said:


> Since you have access to a welder and an admirable can-do outlook, why not go for the full Alaskan mill design? Could be simpler aand work better in the long run?


Had I been fit and healthy I dare say I would have gone the alaskam mill route. I'm a long term user of morphine for a back injury however which makes bending over and pushing or even standing for anything more than a minute at a time totally out of the question, ... hence raising the log to a reasonable working height and having the saw run along a fixed rail so I don't have to bear it's full weight and try to keep my balance while shaking with pain at the same time.

Even then I'm not sure I can stand long enough to do a cut on a 5 ft log in which case I may have to either do it seated on a stool at the back of the rail or give up on my ambition of having done the whole process myself from rough log to finished article. 

Col.


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## Walney Col (8 Dec 2014)

Grayorm":3gtz211u said:


> Col, I think for this to work you will have to overcome a lot of friction between the carriage and the back of the bench.


The wheels are definitely an option (I even have some) but I think there's be a lot more play in those wheels than in an all-metal runner and I do have a backup plan to install a little hand crank winch to pull it along the back of the bench if need be.

FYI the metal runner I'm making is cut from a length of 80x40x3 steel hollow box section 250mm long so unlike the wheels which might have to navigate a bit of a sawdust obstacle course (lumps and bumps on top of the back rail) the steel runner should be able to clear it all off as it goes and run straight as an arrow.

Col.


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## Walney Col (8 Dec 2014)

Grayorm":2ngwbld4 said:


> dzj":2ngwbld4 said:
> 
> 
> > My bet is that an electric chain saw will stall or burn out trying to do this, it's just not what they're designed for. I'm watching with interest.


This electric saw seems to manage ok(ish) and his workbench is a lot more wobbly than mine...




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TEpdMX3Dcq0

As for burning out there'd be enough lumber in a 12" diameter 5' long log to last me for months so it won't exactly be an everyday use kind of deal. It would however be extremely cost effective since I bought the saw AND made the bench for less than you'd pay for that quantity of pre-cut oak boards.

They don't make an off the shelf ripping chain for my gague chain BTW but I've just this morning had a spare chain delivered so I can grind it to more of a ripping angle should it bog down too much.

Col.


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## Walney Col (8 Dec 2014)

doorframe":pykah8i7 said:


> He made that look positively easy. And if you watch really closely, you can see him set the fine adjuster to 299.3mm.


It's obviously a lot more popular dimension than many people think


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## Graham Orm (8 Dec 2014)

Walney Col":2gll8rhs said:


> Grayorm":2gll8rhs said:
> 
> 
> > dzj":2gll8rhs said:
> ...



I'd have said that saw was struggling Col, if the log had been twice the thickness (12") and 5 ft long, I just can't see it working. He had to put all his weight behind it. Maybe a wedge at the open end of the cut would have helped?

No-one seems to have picked up here on the fact that it's ripping and not cross cutting. Even a circular saw struggles when cutting with the grain compared to across it.

I'm sorry to read that you're suffering so much. Well done for keeping going ;-)


----------



## paulm (8 Dec 2014)

Walney Col":35cqv0cc said:


> doorframe":35cqv0cc said:
> 
> 
> > He made that look positively easy. And if you watch really closely, you can see him set the fine adjuster to 299.3mm.
> ...



:lol: :lol: :lol: 

It's worth making up a couple or so wedges to put in the cut at the end you started, so that the weight of the cut plank doesn't pinch the saw so much as you move down the length of the log, and takes less effort to get it finished and less demand on the saw too.

Cheers, Paul


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## dzj (8 Dec 2014)

Grayorm":15rgj4ht said:


> No-one seems to have picked up here on the fact that it's ripping and not cross cutting.


It was mentioned a few pages back.


----------



## Owl (8 Dec 2014)

You certainly have my sympathy concerning your back Col.  

I should imagine that a 12" x 5' log would be a fair old weight, which makes me wonder how on earth are you going to lift it up onto the bench. 



Grayorm":1pcnuzql said:


> Maybe a wedge at the open end of the cut would have helped?





paulm":1pcnuzql said:


> It's worth making up a couple or so wedges to put in the cut at the end you started,
> Cheers, Paul



Groundhog Day :?:


----------



## Walney Col (8 Dec 2014)

Grayorm":2zqi0msf said:


> I'd have said that saw was struggling Col, if the log had been twice the thickness (12") and 5 ft long, I just can't see it working. He had to put all his weight behind it. Maybe a wedge at the open end of the cut would have helped?


Cheers Grayorm.

Yeah, I do take your point about his setup struggling, but to my mind there's several other things he could have done that I think might also have helped him out a little and I've tried to take them into account. The bottom line for me though is that although I'd like a little beefier setup (12" max log would be great) if I could manage exactly the same cuts as he did (bearing in mind that he had another 3 logs already cut the same way showing just outside the door at the end of the vid) it would probably do... I can get 3 foot long 12" oak ash and maple logs in abundance but my source rarely if ever has anything much less and I'm loath to switch to a petrol saw unless it turns out that electric ones are a complete failure.

Col.
Edit: Seeing as there doesn't appear to be any such thing as a standard ripping chain in .046 (electric saw) gague I'm GUESSING that the guy in the video was also using the stock cross cut chain and by all accounts that would have been a struggle regardless of the type of saw it was on.


----------



## Walney Col (8 Dec 2014)

Owl":3h1l8yd7 said:


> You certainly have my sympathy concerning your back Col.


Thanks Owl. There are worse things that could have happened 



Owl":3h1l8yd7 said:


> I should imagine that a 12" x 5' log would be a fair old weight, which makes me wonder how on earth are you going to lift it up onto the bench.


Ah. You spotted that too eh. I don't really envisage getting that size log home without a helper but failing that I have a cunning plan. In fact I've got two plans.
Plan A. If the back of my bench is up to it try and make the little winch on the back rail serve a dual purpose so I can use that draped over the front of the seat to help with the lift.
Plan B. is to move the bench against a small natural step we have in the garden landscape so I can actually roll the log "across a bridge" which would be more or less level.

In fact I've got a plan C as well... 
Cut em into shorter logs.


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## Graham Orm (8 Dec 2014)

Col, I also noticed that he had 2 metal tracks, probably reducing friction.

And now you're talking ripping 12" oak ?? You love a challenge don't you? ;-)


----------



## paulm (8 Dec 2014)

Owl":lhw1efvc said:


> Grayorm":lhw1efvc said:
> 
> 
> > Maybe a wedge at the open end of the cut would have helped?
> ...



:lol: What can I say, I was in a rush to get to my dinner :lol: 

Cheers, Paul


----------



## Owl (8 Dec 2014)

paulm":2a3ky0b6 said:


> :lol: What can I say, I was in a rush to get to my dinner :lol:
> 
> Cheers, Paul




May I then wish you Bon Apetit Paul  

Brian


----------



## Max Power (8 Dec 2014)

Why would you bother for that quantity of timber, which you then have to have sat around seasoning for an age :? 
Unseasoned timber can be had relatively cheaply from any sawmill :ho2


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## Walney Col (8 Dec 2014)

Grayorm":2xcmbwgu said:


> And now you're talking ripping 12" oak ?? You love a challenge don't you? ;-)



I certainly do, and a 12" oak log was just too good to pass up. I could have declined it and gone for softer wood but I thought I might as well find out right off the bat whether it'd be capable of the toughest job I'm ever likely to want it to do. 

Col.


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## Walney Col (8 Dec 2014)

Max Power":11qrk7pu said:


> Why would you bother for that quantity of timber, which you then have to have sat around seasoning for an age :?
> Unseasoned timber can be had relatively cheaply from any sawmill :ho2


I love the santa hat!

At the rate I work that one log represents several months worth of blanks for my mini lathe and thin boards for my scroll saw, but in any case, it's just as much about me learning the milling and drying processed as anything else. You might say I just enjoy playing.

Col.


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## dickm (9 Dec 2014)

Walney Col":1si3qdv9 said:


> in any case, it's just as much about me learning the milling and drying processed as anything else. You might say I just enjoy playing.
> 
> Col.



Well said that lad! Let's all applaud your determination. 
But having said that, while sawing up the latest load of stuff for our woodburner with a Stihl E220, did notice one thing that might need a bit of thought. Even cross cutting, it's much easier and quicker if you can raise and lower the saw a bit so it's not cutting the full width at any time. And when ripping awkward (i.e. difficult to split) stuff, it makes an even bigger difference. You've already mentioned fixing the saw so that the tip of the blade leads, which will certainly help. Being able to "wiggle" the saw in the plane of the blade would be even better, but your current design doesn't allow that. One advantage of the alaskan mill is that this wiggling is possible and if you watch most users, they do make use of it. 
Picking up on the "stealth saw" issue raised earlier, you could hide an alaskan mill type thing rather than leaving it out pretending to be something else  . But take your point about back problems - we most of us have encountered those one time or another.


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## Walney Col (9 Dec 2014)

dickm":15qv3o2z said:


> Even cross cutting, it's much easier and quicker if you can raise and lower the saw a bit so it's not cutting the full width at any time.


Hi Dick.

I've already encountered the phenomenon you're on about when cross cutting, and you're right, it helps a lot.

I've also noticed for myself how the alaskan mill operators achieve the same thing, and although mine wouldn't allow that as it stands - in the plans but not noticable in any of the screen shots I already have the basics of a 1-bolt setup which would allow me to pivot the saw to reduce the effective cutting width. It's the one on the left below.







While I'd definitely like to be able to pivot the saw for exactly the reasons you state I'm not 100% convinced that I personally would be very safe doing it bearing in mind that when the pain comes on I pretty often start to shake uncontrollably within seconds and would very much appreciate the safety aspect of that second bolt preventing any sudden movements.

If all goes according to plan however and it turns out to be physically easier than I worry it might be, some sort of pivot at the base of the blade will definitely be on the cards for the future.

Col.


----------



## Walney Col (12 Dec 2014)

The cruudy weather abated enough to make a little bit of progress on the metalwork today.




The bottom piece in the above photo now needs welding onto the carrier it's resting on and has two 10mm threaded holes into which the high tensile bolts that clamp the saw blade will go. The black lines on the clamp faces indicate the areas that need still grinding out to accommodate the kerf of the chain.








She who must be obeyed let me bring the bench into the house to drill thread and glue the three 12mm bolts into which hold the back on. It it's fully raised position (shown) the highest possible cut on any log will be 315mm above the seat of the bench. I'm a little shorter on length on my chainsaw bar than I'd anticipated (who knew a 16" bar only gave you a 13" cut!) but it's looking good for 12" logs which is what I was hoping for. You can actually get an 18" bar for my saw but there's no point in investing in one before I've found out how it performs as-is.








I could do much bigger washers to spread the load around the adjusting slots but these should do for a first try out.

Col.


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## Water-Mark (12 Dec 2014)

Looking good so far.

You'll get a better finish of cut by not see sawing the saw as it moves so i wouldn't worry too much about that.

Rocking the saw is usually helped with the dog teeth biting into the log and you'll lose that ability with this set up so any speed gains will be minimal.


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## Walney Col (12 Dec 2014)

Thanks Mark.

I think the see-sawing idea was mainly a way of dealing with either an underpowered saw or an underpowered pusher (me) both of which may well be pretty likely if the logs ever approach the full length of the bench. If it's me that turns out to be underpowered I'd deal with that by adding a small winch to tow the saw along, but if it's the saw that's underpowered and I can't uprade to a larger one the see-sawing action might just save the day.

Col.


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## dickm (13 Dec 2014)

Just a suggestion, but rather than filing grooves to clear the chain why not tack a piece of 2 or 3mm steel to the plates between the drawn lines?


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## Walney Col (13 Dec 2014)

I've just done that very thing Dick. Obvious really when you think about it isn't it


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## swb58 (13 Dec 2014)

In my experience, the urge to see saw the blade only occurs when the chain needs sharpening. Keep the chain sharp and it'll lower the strain on everything, saw and bench.


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## Walney Col (15 Dec 2014)

Just got to make some sort of gauge for setting the height of the rail equally at both ends and some sort of grippers for securing the log to the bench and we're ready to give it a try.




Oh... and I've yet to sharpen the chain to 10 degrees so it's more suitable for ripping.

Col.


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## RobinBHM (15 Dec 2014)

Its beginning to look like an execution bench, 'sit down sir, make yourself comfortable, face the front, in a minute you may feel a sharp scratch'


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## paulm (15 Dec 2014)

RobinBHM":2bksrf8o said:


> Its beginning to look like an execution bench, 'sit down sir, make yourself comfortable, face the front, in a minute you may feel a sharp scratch'



:lol: :lol: :lol: 

Looking forwards to seeing how you get on 

Cheers, Paul


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## Walney Col (16 Dec 2014)

First cuts... video coming soon.




Img_0166.jpg[/attachment]
Col.


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## Harry 48 (16 Dec 2014)

Congratulations some nice looking timber you've produced very well done. I think I will be making one soon thanks =D> =D> =D> =D>


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## Random Orbital Bob (16 Dec 2014)

Well done for persevering. Bet the naysayers are feeling a right bunch of charlie's now eh


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## Graham Orm (16 Dec 2014)

Impressive well done. Here's one I found with an electric saw. I have to say I didn't think an electric one would cope! Looks to me like wheels are a good bet. ALSO He oils the chain constantly whilst cutting as the saw is on it's side the gravity drip feed won't work.

*EDIT: Link added*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJMe_CbsFQ0


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## paulm (16 Dec 2014)

Result, well done 8) =D> 

Did you find it hard work to use with the pushing and the electric saw ?

Cheers, Paul


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## Water-Mark (16 Dec 2014)

Awesome


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## Woodmonkey (16 Dec 2014)

Well done, great job. Must confess I didn't think that an electric saw would manage that, as a professional petrol chainsaw user I don't have a very high opinion of electric chainsaws.


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## Walney Col (16 Dec 2014)

Grayorm":1gufaca4 said:


> Impressive well done. Here's one I found with an electric saw. I have to say I didn't think an electric one would cope! Looks to me like wheels are a good bet. ALSO He oils the chain constantly whilst cutting as the saw is on it's side the gravity drip feed won't work.


Was there supposed to be a link there Grayorm?

I have to say I found it very hard work but I was already tired before I started today so all things considered I'm calling it a success. I don't think for one second that a healthy person would have found it hard (or even worth bothering with perhaps) but for me in my state of health and on a limited budget the alternative would have been to work with only cheap pine or shop bought plywood for the rest of my days so it opens up avenues I'd not have available by any other means.

The biggest difficulties I'm pretty sure I can overcome. As someone anticipated the weight of the saw hanging over the back of the bench had a tendency to jam the blade - and sadly (although it helped a bit) the force of the cut pulling the saw towards the log wasn't anywhere near sufficient to overcome that weight. I can get round that at least partially by refining the metal guide the saw's mounted on (a technical term translated as "hitting it with a hammer to tighten it up a bit")... at the moment it's a very loose fit on the rail and that helps it to tip and jam unless I counterbalance the weight of the saw by lifting it up as I push which isn't quite as easy as it sounds. 

Other questions may well be answered by watching the video which is compiling even as we speak. I don't mean to claim the saw bench as "a resounding success of interest to able bodied people" but for those amongst us who need that little bit of help getting things done I'd say it was well worth considering and the power of the saw was more than adequate taking (even me) just a little over 4 minutes to take the first slice off a 350mm oak log and that was with a bog-standard cross cut chain.

BTW, the oil feed on the makita didn't seem to be effected by being on it's side. I checked it afterwards and there was still a healthy dose of oil covering all the parts you'd want it to.

Col.


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## Walney Col (16 Dec 2014)

Random Orbital Bob":1gt3b9oq said:


> Well done for persevering. Bet the naysayers are feeling a right bunch of charlie's now eh


I'm saying nothing :lol:


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## Walney Col (16 Dec 2014)

paulm":i9f8n14q said:


> Result, well done 8) =D>
> 
> Did you find it hard work to use with the pushing and the electric saw ?
> 
> Cheers, Paul


Yes, very much so. But what you have to bear in mind is that I have a heart and lung condition plus a back-pain problem and I can't honestly think of any other way I could have cut that log with the resources available to me. To a fit lad though I'm pretty sure it would've been less than 3 minutes per cut and easy peasy.

Col.


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## Owl (16 Dec 2014)

Well done indeed young sir =D> it looks the business.

ps. at my age I can afford to address you thus: :wink:


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## Walney Col (16 Dec 2014)

Woodmonkey":ya7n92w2 said:


> Well done, great job. Must confess I didn't think that an electric saw would manage that, as a professional petrol chainsaw user I don't have a very high opinion of electric chainsaws.


Thanks woodmonkey. 

As a professional petrol chainsaw user you're probably quite right in your estimation of electric saws, but at 2.5HP, the makita I have wasn't phased at all even though with it's standard cross cut chain it was a bit on the slow side even by my standards. I hope to file one to more of a ripping profile for my next try.

Col.


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## Walney Col (16 Dec 2014)

Owl":g9pk6qic said:


> Well done indeed young sir =D> it looks the business.


Thanks owl. I have to say it was great fun seeing what was inside that log.


----------



## powertools (16 Dec 2014)

I think that your approach to woodworking is similar to mine and I look forward to your video and your next project.
My disc sander based on your design is great


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## RobinBHM (16 Dec 2014)

I would say the clean finish and 4mins of work, would definitely count as a resounding success for an able bodied person. It wouldnt surprise me if this thread inspires others to make something similar.

I wonder if a second guide rail lower down and a simple plywood outrigger, to form a sliding platform so the saw is fully supported might be worth consideration.


----------



## Graham Orm (16 Dec 2014)

Walney Col":3qd48rci said:


> Was there supposed to be a link there Grayorm?Col.


DUH! yes, have added it to the post as well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJMe_CbsFQ0


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## Walney Col (16 Dec 2014)

RobinBHM":x45cambq said:


> I would say the clean finish and 4mins of work, would definitely count as a resounding success for an able bodied person. It wouldnt surprise me if this thread inspires others to make something similar.



It's very kind of you to say so Robin. Having had a limited income and limited physical capabilities for the best part of two decades I often find it hard to judge the value of something to someone else. All I know is that for me being able to mill my own lumber albeit on such a small scale is absolutely priceless.



RobinBHM":x45cambq said:


> I wonder if a second guide rail lower down and a simple plywood outrigger, to form a sliding platform so the saw is fully supported might be worth consideration.


It's certainly worth considering. Another option that occurred to me is that if I were to mount the saw further back (by it's top handle rather than it's blade) I'd not only get a better balanced setup but also a deeper cut.


----------



## Walney Col (16 Dec 2014)

Grayorm":ie16eyn6 said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJMe_CbsFQ0


That's a cracking little setup isn't it. And with an Einhell too. I thought they were supposed to be rubbish?

One thing that occurred to me from an earlier comment someone made about it being "a stealth mill" is that in the video you can actually see the corner of neighbour's house barely 15' from where I'm cutting. They were in. And I'm delighted to say they didn't hear a thing. For my purposes I'm definitely calling that a win!


----------



## dickm (16 Dec 2014)

Great work that man. Another suggestion- could you weld a couple of downward pointing axles on each side of the metal guides with small wheels that would run on the guide rail? They would make sliding the saw along easier and keep it level? But it's a real inspiration already.


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## Aden30mm (16 Dec 2014)

Nice one Col, is that a bit of Vickers engineering coming through (I note your location).

Aden


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## Walney Col (16 Dec 2014)

Aden30mm":2nom8tgl said:


> Nice one Col, is that a bit of Vickers engineering coming through (I note your location).
> 
> Aden


You may well be right. It's hard not to pick up a thing or two then the guy in the next shed is knocking out nuclear submarines for a living.


----------



## Walney Col (16 Dec 2014)

First cuts...





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oq_JVsxPYtQ
Col.


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## Graham Orm (16 Dec 2014)

A lot of hard graft gone in there Col. I think wheels on that guide are the next development. Having waited for the video, I stand by my first comment. That saw isn't designed to do that work and I can't see it lasting long. A petrol saw would have been through it in a third of the time. Keep the blade razor sharp and some wheels on the rig somehow. Good luck with it, and with your health.


----------



## Walney Col (16 Dec 2014)

Cheers Grayorm.

At the rate I'll be using it there's every chance the saw will outlast my woodworking days so I'm happy enough.

Col.


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## Graham Orm (16 Dec 2014)

Walney Col":3nppnxjn said:


> Cheers Grayorm.
> 
> At the rate I'll be using it there's every chance the saw will outlast my woodworking days so I'm happy enough.
> 
> Col.



That's what counts mate. Just keep on top of the chain and make yourself some wedges.


----------



## woodfarmer (17 Dec 2014)

Walney Col":21ek0dso said:


> Woodmonkey":21ek0dso said:
> 
> 
> > Well done, great job. Must confess I didn't think that an electric saw would manage that, as a professional petrol chainsaw user I don't have a very high opinion of electric chainsaws.
> ...



If it helps, I bought an oregon ripping chain from Chainsdirect for my electric Ikra chainsaw. I have noticed that is seems to cut easier if the bar is at a bit of an angle ripping instead of cutting straight across the ends of the grain.

good work.


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## paulm (17 Dec 2014)

Thanks for posting the video up Col, works great in practice.

As Grayorm mentioned, tap a wedge or two into the starting end of the cut as you get to around a third or quarter of the distance left and it will take the pressure off the chainsaw bar and make it easier for you to push towards the end otherwise the weight of the plank will pinch the bar.

I expect you know this already too, but when filing the chain sharp make sure to file the depth limiters behind the teeth a little bit too so the chain continues to have enough bite at the teeth.

Other than that I think the next improvement could be putting some wheels on your stool and getting the missus to push you and the saw along from behind :lol: 

Great job Col =D> 

Cheers, Paul


----------



## timber (17 Dec 2014)

paulm":2i2ubnp3 said:


> Thanks for posting the video up Col, works great in practice.
> 
> As Grayorm mentioned, tap a wedge or two into the starting end of the cut as you get to around a third or quarter of the distance left and it will take the pressure off the chainsaw bar and make it easier for you to push towards the end otherwise the weight of the plank will pinch the bar.
> 
> ...



Maybee when mostly ripping, the teeth do not need to be quite such an angle, it helps the chain from straining sidewards in the cut
Do many folk do this sort of thing with chain saws???
Richard


----------



## paulm (17 Dec 2014)

Not sure what you mean Richard ?

I'm meaning the depth of cut of the teeth which is controlled by the depth of the limiters behind the teeth.

The angle of the cutting edge of each tooth is something different, and yes, filing them more square or square can help the efficiency when rip cutting. It can also make kickback more likely and/or severe if the the same chain is then used for cross-cutting though.

Cheers, Paul


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## timber (17 Dec 2014)

paulm":17s3kc5h said:


> Not sure what you mean Richard ?
> 
> I'm meaning the depth of cut of the teeth which is controlled by the depth of the limiters behind the teeth.
> 
> ...


I understand Paul but I did say* Maybee
* However one instruction I will give " keep the thumb around the top handle and not like the starting handle of an old car"
Richard


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## Walney Col (17 Dec 2014)

paulm":s1rydnh1 said:


> Thanks for posting the video up Col, works great in practice.


Thanks Paul, and +1 on seat wheels and the wife helping the push along I reckon that'd work a treat. 
I still have several finishing bits to make including hold-down to secure the log and wedges to keep the cut open etc.


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## Owl (17 Dec 2014)

Walney Col":4qqqyt3h said:


> paulm":4qqqyt3h said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for posting the video up Col, works great in practice.
> ...




Better still, get the wife to operate the chainsaw while you do the camera work  

Personally I think you've overcome a hell of a lot to achieve what you have done, best of luck with your health and project Col.

Brian


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## Walney Col (17 Dec 2014)

Thanks Brian, very kind of you to say so.
As for the wife on the chainsaw and me on the camera, she's confused enough by the little red light on the video camera, lord knows what she'd do if she got her hands on a chain saw. 
Col.


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## acewoodturner (17 Dec 2014)

Well done Col. As someone who has milled a couple of hundred trees with an Alaskan Mill and MS 880 combination, I was pleasantly surprised by your success. Taking your time with a low powered saw and having good sharp teeth is definitley the way forward.
As a wee aside I have been milling now for 13 years with the biggest tree being an oak with a 60' long trunk and with a diameter at the base of 4'. Took a wee while and it was hard work but the results were brilliant. Prime gun barrel oak for pennies per cubic foot is fantastic and I still love turning over the planks to see the wood that I have just milled. The easiest bit though is the milling, the hardest bit is drying it without splitting it. I have built a sauno kiln to dry it and it works very well. I broke it up last year in order to rebuild it better than the first version and I am nearing completion. I can dry up to 2m in length and over a meter wide. The kiln takes up a lot of floor space but as I don't have a lot of room outside for air drying its worth it.


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## Walney Col (17 Dec 2014)

acewoodturner":2b6882is said:


> Well done Col. As someone who has milled a couple of hundred trees with an Alaskan Mill and MS 880 combination, I was pleasantly surprised by your success.



Thanks for your comments. Now I've found I can mill the quantities of wood that'd keep me happy I'm beginning to turn my attention to ways of drying it, which as you say, is more than likely the hard part :?


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## nanscombe (18 Dec 2014)

So, the next project is a kiln disguised as one of those garden bench / storage boxes or a raised planting bed then. :lol:


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## duncanh (18 Dec 2014)

An impressive feat of construction!
I don't think I've noticed it in this thread, but I'd strongly recommend wearing ear defenders and safety glasses at the very least. Probably not as much requirement for full chainsaw ppe as the bar is captive. Having spent a day using an Alaskan mill this week I'd also recommend a dust mask as the beech we were ripping was kicking out a lot of dust as well as the chippings even with a freshly sharpened chain.

I'd also get into the habit of applying the chain brake when you're not actually cutting (like at the end of the log or when moving the saw around.


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## Walney Col (19 Dec 2014)

nanscombe":3f52mu10 said:


> So, the next project is a kiln disguised as one of those garden bench / storage boxes or a raised planting bed then. :lol:


The quantities of wood I want are so small I think I might go for an indoor kiln. Sort of a horizontal airing cupboard if you will probably with a light bulb heater and one of those little bedroom dehumidifiers. It all sound pretty straight forward (he said nervously. haha

Col.


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## Walney Col (19 Dec 2014)

duncanh":z4yuv364 said:


> An impressive feat of construction!
> I don't think I've noticed it in this thread, but I'd strongly recommend wearing ear defenders and safety glasses at the very least. Probably not as much requirement for full chainsaw ppe as the bar is captive. Having spent a day using an Alaskan mill this week I'd also recommend a dust mask as the beech we were ripping was kicking out a lot of dust as well as the chippings even with a freshly sharpened chain.
> 
> I'd also get into the habit of applying the chain brake when you're not actually cutting (like at the end of the log or when moving the saw around.


Thanks for the tips Duncan. 

It wouldn't have occurred to me to flip the chain brake on every time I stop the saw but it's so easy to do it makes a lot of sense.

Col.


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## pitch pine (20 Dec 2014)

Persistance pays off. I really like it when someone sets off with a idea, deals with the problems, doesn't give up and gets a result. Well done that man.

Drying the cut timber in the house may be tricky. I usually sticker the wood and dry it outside or in an unheated building before bringing it inside , though it depends on how dry the wood is to start. A good way to learn about drying timber is to take a small piece and weigh it (Tesco kitchen scales!) at regular intervals to see how much moisture it is losing, and watch for checks in the end grain (which I seal with pva). Loads of checking = drying too fast. 

Good luck.


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## doorframe (20 Dec 2014)

I once tried to dry some freshly cut trunks (from a railway embankment behind my sister's house.), about 12" diameter, cut down to about 12" lengths. Brought them into my workshop, and just left them under a bench. About 3 months later I got them out to have a look, and every single one had multiple splits. I don't know what type of wood it was, but they were wrecked. I've been told since that I should have painted the end grain. The ones I left behind haven't split, but they're now quite rotten. When they cut some more down I'll try again.


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## Walney Col (20 Dec 2014)

doorframe":20peqzx0 said:


> About 3 months later I got them out to have a look, and every single one had multiple splits.


Are you talking about actual 12' long logs? If so, and the splits are in the ends, have a bash at cutting a few inches off the ends there's a reasonable chance that the splits don't penetrate more all that far after only 3 months.


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## doorframe (21 Dec 2014)

Yep, splits along the whole length. Wide enough to get your fingers in.


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## dickm (26 Dec 2014)

Col
Inspired by your posts, started checking other home build mills to check details before getting the mig out for my version.. Came across an example quite like yours, but with only a one-sided guide and a second rail on the other side of the log. Didn''t look nearly as easy to use, especially without strong arms. But it did make me wonder if it would be worth rigging a second rail on your one, together with some sort of end cap on the nose of the bar to run on the second rail? Two possible advantages, safety and by allowing a more sloppy fit on the main rail, less friction. Would give a URL for the build but can't now find it - the trials of age!!


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## Walney Col (27 Dec 2014)

Hi Dick.

I live on West Shore Park (see photo) and the only reason my chainsaw mill was designed as it was is that being an open-plan no-private-gardens distinctly seaside type environment it was essential that when it wasn't in use it blended into the background and didn't look too out of place.







Had I lived in an ordinary house with a private garden this is what I'd probably have made:-





The carriage would have been made from 30mm or 40mm welded hollow box section wound along an angle-iron track by a small winch based around a bicycle wheel hub.
You can download the WIP plans for that mill here HERE

I've also got WIP plans HERE for a midi sized chainsaw mill driven by a 6.5HP 4 stroke engine which I'd love to build if my health was up to it (which sadly it isn't).





And cream of the crop (for some) might be the same 6.5HP engine driving a bandsaw mill.




The WIP plans for that one are HERE

Oh, and apart from the single rail being compulsory in my final design due to it having to look like a garden bench, another reason a blade-tip rail was out of the question was my electric chainsaw blade which is only 16" of which I need every spare millimeter I can get.

Hope you find all that interesting. :lol: 

Col.


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## Harry 48 (27 Dec 2014)

Hi Col a fantastic job made to fit your environment =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>


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## Walney Col (27 Dec 2014)

Thanks Harry.


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## dickm (27 Dec 2014)

Great designs Col. You must do a lot of thinking as well as making. With half acre out on the edge of village plus reasonable fitness, I've not got your constraints, but still don' t get half as much done!
By the way- your aerial shots of Barrow were great, but how come you got away with filming over what must be a pretty sensitive area?


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## Walney Col (28 Dec 2014)

dickm":3nwhdcl8 said:


> Great designs Col. You must do a lot of thinking as well as making. With half acre out on the edge of village plus reasonable fitness, I've not got your constraints, but still don' t get half as much done!
> By the way- your aerial shots of Barrow were great, but how come you got away with filming over what must be a pretty sensitive area?


Thanks Dick. I get plenty of thinking time but physical activities are usually limited to about an hour a day before I'm exhausted so I don't get anywhere hear as much done as I'd like.

Finding out where you can fly model planes is a pretty straight forward business. In Barrow there are 3 official no fly zones of varying diameters (around the airfield, the gas works, and the nuclear shed at BAE) the details of which are all publicly available, and I personally have all that data on an overlay in google earth to help me avoid any infringements when I'm planning where to get the best shots of the features I want to film. I also used to fly on Walney Airfield itself which plays host to one of the local rc flying clubs and you can get all manner of information from just about any of the personnel there. And finally there's NOTAM (Notice to Airmen) which is the means by which you advise the authorities a minimum of a day in advance of any unusual air activity you've planned in order that they can notify all the "proper airmen" who've also log routes through that area.

Other than that you have to use a good dose of common sense, have permission from the land owner (doesn't apply to "common land"), and follow all the usual rules about how close you fly to people building and structures etc.

Hope that helps.

Col.


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