# Restoration? Let's talk chisels



## jimi43 (8 May 2012)

In recent weeks there have been a number of threads asking about chisels...what ones to buy...how can I get the best deal for my money...what's the best steel? You know the kind of thing.

Since there are no bootfairs in our neck of the woods to augment my stock...I decided to carry on restoring the tools that I bought last season...and then I thought it might help others if I documented some restorations so that others might be encouraged to follow this route.

So...today I did a chisel. It took about 2 hours, some CORRO DIP (yes that expensive stuff again!)...a copper brush and some Abranet and Micromesh. If you want to finish the handles..you might want Tru-Oil too.

For this restoration I selected a standard bootfair find...a little Marples boxwood gouge in pretty rough state and for which I would pay pence...at the most a pound.....







This is pretty typical of tools which have lain neglected in a box in a damp shed for many years...only to surface again during clearouts...and ferried to fields of goodies to be sold for next to nothing.

Most are restorable...even though they may have a fair amount of rust...the key is not too much pitting...






...and it is wise to choose ones with boxwood handles...they tend to be more expensive..hence better quality...






Good makers are also a better bet...the Sorbys...Wards...older Marples...and many others, made superb cast steel tools...which can be honed to extreme sharpness as will be seen.

So..what do we do with this sorry specimen? Well...first of all...if I haven't convinced you yet...invest a score in a litre of CORRO DIP. Now I have no association to this company or product whatever...I am only a happy user...and you will soon see why....






One litre makes 6 litres of diluted fluid...so it works out quite cheap...and my diluted stock is still the original stuff from a few years back...so I don't know when it will stop working...

Put the chisel in a jar...large enough to cover all the steel.....






...unlike corrosives such as phosphoric acid...CORRO DIP will not affect surrounding plastic...wood etc. But I would prefer it not to stain the beautiful boxwood so I have left this protruding out of the top.

I had previously heated the liquid in the microwave for about 1 minute 40 seconds...or until hot. It works far better that way.

After an hour...that was all that was needed with this one...I took the chisel out of the liquid....






The observant amongst you will notice I have also fixed a split with some epoxy at the same time and will also fix that stupid hole someone drilled in the handle which was the epicentre of the split in the first place! :roll: 

It's still pretty mucky!






...but note how the overspill has cleaned the brass ferrule too!

A quick scrape will show if the underlying metal is clean and the job done...






A very light scrub with a soft copper brush showed how good a job had indeed been done with the liquid...






...so I might as well do the front too...






There is only one deep pit just above the maker's mark...but this has been rendered inert...some solid black stuff.

The maker's mark is clean as a whistle with no rubbing so is still very legible....






Now we come to a decision...a choice of the new owner (you) really. You can leave it as it is with all the crud and patina on it...or clean it right down to wood...effect all the repairs and refinish. I chose the latter because of the hole, the split and the relative abundance of this mark. It's really up to you.

So...either by hand or in a lathe...use Abranet from 120G down to 400G....followed by MicroMesh 1500M to 12000M






I filled the handle with some scrap boxwood...made it look like a knot....I hate holes in handles!

Note the machining is still evident...something you won't get if you wire brush...especially with a power wheel!






The inside is clean as a new pin too...






I put Tru-Oil on the handle...it's a lovely natural feel to it...great for using on hand tools and guitar necks..oh...and shotguns!






So...next time your finger wavers over the "BUY" button to get a nice modern chisel...don't forget what's floating around in a field near you! :wink: 

Oh...and it cuts beautifully too!

Jim


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## AndyT (8 May 2012)

To anyone wondering - I can confirm that this is really good advice - it's surprising just how far gone a tool can look but still be rescuable to a fresh lease of life. I've had similar results using citric acid, but I think I shall be following Jim's lead and investing in some Corrodip to go alongside the Abranet, Micromesh and Tru-oil.
One question - my nice old brass wire brush is a bit knackered - do you have a good source of brass or wire brushes which doesn't start at dawn in a muddy field?


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## jimi43 (8 May 2012)

AndyT":1xpo4p02 said:


> To anyone wondering - I can confirm that this is really good advice - it's surprising just how far gone a tool can look but still be rescuable to a fresh lease of life. I've had similar results using citric acid, but I think I shall be following Jim's lead and investing in some Corrodip to go alongside the Abranet, Micromesh and Tru-oil.
> One question - my nice old brass wire brush is a bit knackered - do you have a good source of brass or wire brushes which doesn't start at dawn in a muddy field?



Ha! you're getting the measure of me Andy...I was just ready to say bootfair but you cut me off at the pass! :mrgreen: 

Shoe shops mate....or Timpsons in any shopping centre. The ones for suede shoes is ideal...though a bit pricey. Any pound shop should have something....or FleaBay if you can wait that long.

Brass or copper are best...not steel as that scratches and is only really any use for anchor chains! :wink: 

Jim


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## lanemaux (8 May 2012)

Hi Andy. I am not sure if you have them in the UK , but I frequent the dollar store (pound shop?) to find wee brush sets. The ones I get are in 3 packs. One brass , one steel and a nylon bristle in a format much like over sized toothbrushes. While these are not high quality gear , they will aid in cleaning . As they wear out , well ,for a buck they are tossable.


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## Blister (8 May 2012)

Nice one Jimi

You have done it now 

Corro Dip to be ordered 

Its amazing the transformation from a rusty wreck to a user =D>


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## wallace (8 May 2012)

Hi Jim, a man after my own heart. I think I have only bought a few new tools in my whole life. I doubt I could afford half the stuff I have accumulated over the years if I had to buy them full price. How would the chisel you restored have been finished when new. I tend to use more drastic measures, a brass wheel in a grinder and then polishing compound on a mop.
Mark


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## jimi43 (8 May 2012)

I don't think you'll be disappointed Allen...you can use it on quite heavy rust..the only time I have "wasted" it was when I have had to sacrifice some as a brush on. It then creates a barrier for further corrosion. I used it on my steel scaffolding tower and it hasn't rusted since.

Hi Wallace....I think that the ground finish that has been revealed would have been the original. I don't think the bevel had been touched either...just rusted. I think I caught it just in time before the pitting started....well, almost!

A brass wheel is also fine...although in my experience it can't removed deep rust very well and in trying...is usually destroyed. The CORRO DIP would appear to convert the lion's share of the rust to some sort of inert powder which just brushes off. They are very guarded as to what the formula is but whatever it is...it works. It kind of smells like a fruit acid is in it...perhaps citric but it works like a super citric acid...so something else is there. I put my hand in it to remove parts with no problem. I did wash them soon after though just in case!

Cheers

Jim


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## humblewood (8 May 2012)

Blister":1ctifayj said:


> Its amazing the transformation from a rusty wreck to a user =D>



Hmmm :-k wonder if it would work on my van... :lol: 

Would need a big jam jar though :shock:


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## soulboy (8 May 2012)

very informative post Jim, 
I have been using electrolysis (kept burning out transformers) and now some rust remover from Hammerite, which may/may not be exactly the same chemicals. 
Does anybody get a dry sort of dusty surface to their metal?
I thought i might be leaving the items in solution too long?
Do you need to degrease beforehand?
TIA chris


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## jimi43 (8 May 2012)

soulboy":3g3kutny said:


> very informative post Jim,
> I have been using electrolysis (kept burning out transformers) and now some rust remover from Hammerite, which may/may not be exactly the same chemicals.
> Does anybody get a dry sort of dusty surface to their metal?
> I thought i might be leaving the items in solution too long?
> ...



Thanks Chris.

There is no residue at all after brushing off the "rust" which appears to have been chemically changed to a black powder. The time immersed depends on the amount of rust...this only took an hour...other times it has taken overnight to work..though I think it depends on temperature. 

The first time I used it I didn't heat it up much and it was rather cold in the workshop...it still worked but took 24 hours. Now...heating it first appears to accelerate the process greatly....as I say... a matter of hours.

I forgot it once and left it immersed for a couple of days...it worked and there was no adverse effect of leaving it in "too long".

There wasn't much grease on any of the items I have treated so far...but I guess it wouldn't hurt. I just bung it in though.

Jim


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## adidat (8 May 2012)

humblewood":3kynomzx said:


> Blister":3kynomzx said:
> 
> 
> > Its amazing the transformation from a rusty wreck to a user =D>
> ...



my car came from jam jar?? - any use.


i think im going to have to buy a tin of that magic potion, what happens to the rust?

does it end up as sediment at the bottom?

adidat


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## jimi43 (9 May 2012)

adidat":23w9r4rv said:


> humblewood":23w9r4rv said:
> 
> 
> > Blister":23w9r4rv said:
> ...



Indeed it does Chris...inert...and I decant it off.

Cheers

Jim


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## Mike.S (9 May 2012)

I haven't used CorroDip but it seems very similar to 'Shield Technology Restore Rust Remover' (available at Workshop Heaven and elsewhere) which I have used with similar success. The Shield product dilutes at 20:1 so compares favorably - price wise - with CorroDip. Not had enough experience to comment on longevity - I've only used the Shield stuff for months versus several years mentioned in the OP. I store my diluted solution in plastic milk bottles/carton and use another carton, with top cut-off, to soak items - even squeezed a plane in there! The plastic gardening troughs work well for larger items e.g. saw blades, no 8 plane. 

These sorts of posts are very welcome. I have a bunch (is that the right term?) of 'pigstickers' to restore - derusted but re-handling and grinding those large primary bevels (at 20°) is a bit of a challenge for my equipment/skills so I'm leaving them on the shelf 'til I get the nerve and energy to attack them. 

+1 for Tru-oil, though I tend to use it on Beech handles and prefer (raw) linseed oil for Boxwood. Different strokes....


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## Pete W (9 May 2012)

lanemaux":2kue2veg said:


> The ones I get are in 3 packs. One brass , one steel and a nylon bristle in a format much like over sized toothbrushes.



Like these?:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/MINI-BRUSH-Bras ... B00439MM9Q

I got a three-pack of these, free with one of the woodworking mags (Good Woodworking, I think) a few years ago. Mine are still going, although they don't see nearly as much action as some around here.


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## jimi43 (9 May 2012)

Hi Mike

I'm sure there will be a number of manufacturers (or perhaps re-branding) popping up to take advantage of the Holy Grail of solutions (both meanings) to corrosion.

It was the same when "oxy-action" was developed and look what happened there.

The interesting thing in your post Mike is the subject of container. With reusable chemicals, this becomes very important as we want to bathe the item in one shot and then return the solution to storage.

I wanted to dilute as little as possible and therefore the shape of the container became a bit of an obsession! The square Tupperware or ice cream pots were favourite for lots of relatively small items....






My wife is getting a bit fed up with me saving anything and everything in the shape of food packaging...I really must throw some of it into recycling!

Those brushes look a little flimsy Pete...although you can't always tell from a picture. I tend to go for the denser, hairier ones...like the old Hush Puppy brushes...and the huge ones that look like giant hair brushes but with brass instead of plastic bristles....MAPLIN HAVE SOME FOR £1.99

Spark plug cleaning brushes are perfect for smaller items...LIKE THIS ONE

....but I'm sure a pound shop is your best bet.

Cheers

Jim


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## Mike.S (9 May 2012)

Yes Jim, not quite sure what's in these solutions and which came first. I even wondered if the anti-rust liquid (Fernox?) you add to central heating systems might work - similar blackish solution appears when you drain down radiators. 



> My wife is getting a bit fed up with me saving anything and everything in the shape of food packaging...I really must throw some of it into recycling!


 
I guess I'm lucky here as my wife loves keeping (certain) packaging - she works in a school and keeps them for the kids to use in art classess. Like you, I wanted to minimise the amount of solution per item dipped - the decapitated milk carton worked well as several items could be stood up in it e.g. iron, cap iron, sole, and it was easy to pour the solution back into its long term storage carton. My wife keeps the tupperware like oblong cartons that our local chinese takeaway delivers food in and they've been used also - similar to your pic. She was less happy when I borrowed the plastic lid of a cake container to make my first electrolysis experiment (she was impressed with all the bubbles though)! 

My favourite cleaning brushes: a small brass wire one (suede shoe cleaner) and a toothbrush. 

When more power is needed I use a 6" 'Clean and strip' disk on my bench grinder (like a stiff scotchbrite disk) which is abrasive but doesn't mark like a wire wheel would. For more intricate areas I use the mini-scotchbrite wheels on a Dremel. I'm a fan of Mirka products (sandpaper and W&D) but haven't yet tried the abranet (the one with holes in?) or micromesh.


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## The Bear (9 May 2012)

What do you do on the brass parts to bring them back to life Jimi

Great job by the way


Mark


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## Blister (9 May 2012)

Jim

Have you seen this method ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-_z4tinnXk

SWEET :mrgreen: :lol: :lol:


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## jimi43 (9 May 2012)

The Bear":d5zmpom6 said:


> What do you do on the brass parts to bring them back to life Jimi
> 
> Great job by the way
> 
> ...



Thanks for the further information Mike...it's always helpful to have other ideas...and transfer them. Abranet is a mesh with abrasive built in...it sticks to itself like Velcro...but the particles...rather than clogging the abrasive..just fall out. It's not cheap but it is worth every penny and for turning...remains much cooler than standard sandpaper. Buy the mix packs on FleaBay...120G,180G,240G,320G,400G and about 10 of each. That is the best way to use it I find.

Mark...for cleaning brass and retaining patina I use......





...it is wonderful but not cheap either.....but you only use it very sparingly so a little goes a long way.

This is a bronze lever cap...covered in years of crud...






...and cleaned with MAAS....no loss of patina...






For cleaning as I have with this chisel...I used Abranet (on a lathe)...120G down to 400G then only 1500 mesh MicroMesh to smooth it off and look like factory finishing. I don't really like polishing down to mirror finish...this would not have been how it came from the maker...but if you like that finish...then you can go down the meshes to 12000 mesh and finish with MAAS...at which point it acts like a superfine polish.

This "new" lever cap screw shows both...






Highly polished top and groove and bottom and silk edges.

Jim


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## jimi43 (9 May 2012)

Blister":ve94y38t said:


> Jim
> 
> Have you seen this method ?
> 
> ...




I think the last thing on earth I would use in Australia to clean rust would be a wheely bin full of sugar! Imagine the flies!!! :mrgreen: 

Interesting that it makes phosphoric acid...I'm no chemist but I don't see that one. 

Jimi


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## jimi43 (9 May 2012)

Today I decided to see if this old Marples steel was up to scratch...and so I set about sharpening the bevel.

Now there are probably as many views on how to sharpen bevels as there are chisels so I won't go into the best way of doing this...rather just show how I choose to do it and the results.

After roughing out the bevel on the side of the Tormek...just rolling it flat...I polished it on a flat piece of MDF with some MAAS as the abrasive.

Then for the important bit...the inside of the gouge. I have been meaning to find a suitable candidate to test a new honing idea I picked up from the Sweeney Todd brigade...that is using the powder from a hone flattening session to create a lapping paste. I came up with this kit:







Using the theory that any old carrier fluid/paste will do I chose Baby Oil because it was handy (and as others say, smells nice!). I placed a pinch of powder into the gouge near the edge...added a few drops of oil to the (suitably sized) dowel and mated the two....






Rubbing back and forth whilst taking care to keep the dowel flat created a very sharp edge indeed.

You can just see the highly polished band here:






...and following two pencil lines, the gouge made a nice job of this softwood. It was very controllable and needed just hand pressure...no tapping at all....






I'll test it on some hardwood but I have no doubt that it will be fine. After this workout, the edge was just as sharp and so holds up well.

Jim


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## Argus (9 May 2012)

.

Wonder Jallop indeed, 

But going back to the original post and the impressive results obtained with that rusty old chisel, I’m tempted to ask where rust ends and invasive corrosion begins. 

It doesn’t appear to me that it can get to grips with serious pitting that may be lurking unseen beneath a layer of relatively benign rust.

Any observations on that one?


.


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## Cheshirechappie (9 May 2012)

Argus":3hd544gf said:


> .
> 
> Wonder Jallop indeed,
> 
> ...



If the pitting is clear of the cutting edge, it probably doesn't matter much. If it can be ground out of a cutting edge without too much work, ditto. If it's a really heavy infestation all around the cutting edge - scrapper.


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## jimi43 (9 May 2012)

Argus":3ebfor8y said:


> .
> 
> Wonder Jallop indeed,
> 
> ...



In actual fact Argus...the key is to have a look at the business end when you are checking out rusty examples at a bootfair. I usually run the edge of a coin or something like that across the edge to see if there is serious pitting which extends back a way.

This is generally an indication of a chisel worth avoiding...you will not be able to recover it without seriously cutting back the bevel and on the flat side, if serious pitting extends far back this will always form the "edge" and will lead to a poor cutting edge...however far back it is ground.

Surface rust on the flat side is nothing...it will probably need to be flattened anyway. I'm not saying that you cannot grind down both sides to get to clean metal..you almost certainly can...but it's just not worth it with so many good examples available for next to nothing.

Jim


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## jimi43 (9 May 2012)

Snap CC...posts passing in the ether!

Cheers

Jim


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## Cheshirechappie (9 May 2012)

jimi43":mh48halz said:


> Snap CC...posts passing in the ether!
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Jim



Great minds think alike, Jim!


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## No skills (9 May 2012)

Just a thought, you could try filtering your used chemical through some fine aquarium filter wool/floss to remove the debris/rust. Assuming it doesnt dissolve it (?) it should save throwing some away. Maybe an old tea strainer would be a good floss holder.


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## Benchwayze (10 May 2012)

Jimi, 

I have a Maples boxwood handled, 1.25" chisel that has 'warts' on the face. I am scratching my head as to how I can flatten this. A water stone wouldn't touch it, and my wet-stone grinder isn't coping well either; plus it isn't comfortable using the side of the wheel. I can't really see any point in honing it, until the face is flat, so I thought of getting a dreadnought file, to see if that would remove these 'warts. 

I have often seen pits in a chisel, but this is the first time I've come across raised lumps that I can't describe any other way, than as warts! :mrgreen: 

Any experience on this? I thought I might find that for some reason the metal hadn't been forged properly and was separating somehow, in which case it would be scrap. But Marples are such a reliable brand, I am persevering. So far, btw, I haven't come across anything disastrous underneath these lumps and the chisel is in otherwise excellent condition; probably dates from the 1940s/50s.

If it's anything half as good as the 2" Marples I got from the same place, it will have a place of 'honour' on my chisel rack! 

So should I invest in a dreadnought file, or wouldn't that touch it?


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## jimi43 (10 May 2012)

Hi John

From your excellent description...I can only assume that there was an impurity in the steel which is always the centre of growth for oxidization. Over time this has grown outwards as a "wart" as you so eloquently describe it.

These are likely to be very hard oxides of iron which will be difficult to remove. My suggestion is to try to knock it off to the surface as much as you can with a hard piece of steel...bearing scraper or HSS tool of some sort. If it's way back from the edge I would then leave it. Whatever you do will only be cosmetic...and as long as the wart is excised at or below the level of the surrounding steel...it will not interfere with the function of the chisel.

If that doesn't work a grinder on a Dremel might do the job.

The corroded or damaged part will not come into play and cause problems until grinding of the bevel recedes the edge so much as to approach that area..so I wouldn't worry about it.

A picture would be a great help though.

Cheers mate

Jim


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## Benchwayze (10 May 2012)

jimi43":1b82hr9d said:


> Hi John
> 
> 
> A picture would be a great help though.
> ...



Thanks for the aid Jimi. 
I'm not very good with pictures, I have to take them out of my gloomy shop, into the light and the neighbours think I am a lunatic, photographing bits of wood and tools! :mrgreen: 
Mind you in the words of the Prophet... (See your signature!) S*d 'em!. I'll do me best!


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## Richard T (10 May 2012)

If it's hard enough John. I wouldn't risk any good file on it. Dreadnoughts are very good for shifting lots of metal quickly but only soft metal.

When I have major re working on hard blades to do I stick rough emery cloth to a flat board and merrily while the evening away ... changing cloth several times in some cases ...


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## jimi43 (10 May 2012)

Richard T":24edpziw said:


> If it's hard enough John. I wouldn't risk any good file on it. Dreadnoughts are very good for shifting lots of metal quickly but only soft metal.
> 
> When I have major re working on hard blades to do I stick rough emery cloth to a flat board and merrily while the evening away ... changing cloth several times in some cases ...



I started to suggest this too Richard and then stopped because I think John is talking about only one spot...and that should be solved by just knocking it off or maybe grinding a tad below the surface to get the flat back again.

Whilst rubbing the whole back through the emery flattening process will undoubtedly work...I think it is probably a bit extreme for this occasion and would warrant progressive work through the grits to get the flat back again..with all the inherent dangers we know that can result very easily.  

If you could just grab a shot John, I think we can give better advice on this specific problem.

Jim


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## Benchwayze (10 May 2012)

Hi Jim, Richard, 

Here's a pic. Hope it's okay to see the state of the face.
Excuse the old bench please! And my shaky writing. I don't have a 'tablet' and pen-mouse.


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## jimi43 (10 May 2012)

Thanks for the pictures John...makes things far more easy to advise.

I would say that the back of that is in pretty good nick overall. I can now say I would do as Richard suggests....flatten the back completely starting with fairly coarse wet and dry and working up the grits to take out the high spots and even everything out. I would also grind the bevel back beyond the damage to the edge.

I have two that are in far worse condition and ultimately will become fairly unusable but are worth saving as they are so beautiful....






Notice how the first inch back from the edge needs little further work...beyond that...is badly pitted. The Ward and Payne one (bottom) is especially worth saving as the steel is gorgeous and even with this initial work...is razor sharp.

At first I thought that the edge would be flat all the way across but there is a very slight dip near the top of the edge in this picture as you can see....otherwise....






...it is now as flat as a pancake. I'm going to start again and take it right down...then refinish to a fine edge.

As you can see...the pitting beyond that is extensive and once the grind gets back to that part...a decision will be made as to whether to take more drastic action.

Notice also on the Ward...the high spot that is coming down at the same time as the edge...this is where most of the work will be...

The key to flattening is to make absolutely sure that the back is flat on the abrasive and the abrasive is on something flat like plate glass or MDF....Corian is also wonderful for this.

Make sure that pressure is put on the chisel further back as well as the edge you are flattening as it is remarkably easy to lift the blade and create a back bevel which is a nightmare to get out!

Above all...do not worry at all about hollows behind the edge...Japanese chisels are made like this....it makes flattening far easier.

Hope this helps.

Jim


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## Richard T (11 May 2012)

Aha ... a picture is worth a thousand words and if the neighbours don't understand, well .... y'know. 

Yes, this looks like the many, several chisels (not to mention plane irons ....they're wider and worse usually) that I have spent many hours on getting that flat side into a flat, shiny condition. Rust pitted usually. There are doubtless several ways but as I have said, rough emery, stuck down hard to a flat surface is what I use. Then you can stone, with whichever stone, in the normal manner. 
The area marked "yuck!" and maybe slightly encroaching into that marked "hollow" is all you need to worry about getting flat though ... as Gazpal has stated before - you don't need the entire back flat; just enough to be flat behind the edge. This will increase every time you sharpen and take off the burr on the flat side. So by the time you get to the area marked "pit" the year will be 2095 and we will all be driving flying cars.
Looks like a damn good'en btw.

Err... what Jim said.


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## Benchwayze (11 May 2012)

Thanks Jimi and Roger. 

Errr... What you both said Gents! :lol: 

It seems my Tormek did a better job on the warts than I recalled! As you say Richard the chisel is a good'n. The steel has that lovely grey cast to it, and it just 'feels' proper. Can't explain it any better than that. I just know that the steel actually 'feels' different in texture to new chisels. 

BTW, it's a beech handle I think, not box. I was getting confused with my trusty old 1" Marples.

What you can't see here is the other side of the handle. Sometime in the past a couple of wedged splits got filled with something cream in colour (Could be Brummer or some kind of resin/epoxy) But as it was neatly done and well smoothed out, it's just cosmetic. I think I'll leave it as part of the chisel's chequered past, and not use this particular one for jobs that require more than a tap with a malletr. (Not that I indulge in heavy 'malleting' with my bevel-edegd chisels anyway!) As I said, if this one is half as good as its slightly larger brother, it's a keeper/user! (Got it from a site that specialises in oldtools. :wink: ) 

Thanks again for the excellent advice. I'll post some results asap.


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## jimi43 (11 May 2012)

I just thought I would give you some encouragement John....given that my lovely old Ward was much further gone than yours...

First you start with some pretty coarse paper...the key is always to keep the paper flat..and stuck down as it mustn't rumple up and the substrate must be as flat as Twiggy. :mrgreen: 

So..off we go..you can't get rougher than coarse belt sander stock...






Some 60G just because that's what I picked up for pence at a bootfair...cut up because I don't have a sander that size! 

See how after only a minute or two a vast amount of steel has been removed...so much in fact that even that pitting just back from the edge has disappeared. But look how undulating the back is...probably was from day one! The edge has certainly been rounded over at some point...but not enough to worry about...remember...keep the steel flat!

There is a very hard oxide lump on the right...you can see it in this light...






It is so hard it acts as a little mountain of obstinate material...the abrasive won't touch it, but it's so far back I think I will just leave it.

Note how the Corian substrate is firmly clamped down...






Bench dogs are not much use here! 8) 

Going down the grits...I go across the edge when flattening...eventually gets it all down to the same level....






Note that the pip is still there creating a little island!

I went as far as going to Mr Charnley.....but you don't have to...it was soddin' sharp at 120G and there are those who think that polished is a waste of effort...






I decided to go that far as I wanted you to see the difference...and most importantly...how flat it is! There is no distortion in the reflection!

On the bevel side...I am a great advocate of just following the bevel to hone...






You can see how the bevel curves slightly...the hone reflection thins out at the extremes. By the way...that's a bit of compost on the bevel...not rust...stupid backdrop that was!!  

Hope this helps...I have put Mr Ward away somewhere safe...it is blinkin' sharp! :shock: 

Jim


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## Benchwayze (11 May 2012)

Thanks Jimi. 

Assistance over and above the call of friendship even!
Next time I have the camera in the shop, I will take a pic of the way in which I keep chisel edges from accidental contact with flesh. I save old leather wallets to help me here! (Of course old wallets have plenty of uses in the shop anyhow!)

Thanks again Jimi and take care 

Here's the best chisel in my box. 
Just to illustrate the means of avoiding nasty encounters with a razor sharp edge. 

Hence the collecting of old wallets!


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## JackWheeler995 (11 May 2012)

wow. what a transformation. would love to do this when i get a bit of spare time!!


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## Setch (11 May 2012)

Thanks for posting this Jimi, inspired me to dig out a few chisels my grandfather gave me last year, and a bottle of Shield 'Restore' rust remover from Secret Santa 2010. I've got a bit of pitting to remove (need to get some coarser paper) but I'm hopeful that I can get some use from a couple of box handled firmers, one by R.Melluish of Petter Lane EC4 and one by R.Sorby. Any tips on handle repair - both have missing bits around the butt from heavy hammer use...


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## jimi43 (12 May 2012)

Thanks John...just off to the bootfair now and will have something else to look out for other than chisels...I can't believe I am about to ski a "wallet slope"!!! :mrgreen: 

Jack...thanks mate...post some pictures of your restoration...it all helps encourage others to recycle!

Setch...this is especially true when the tools are heirloom pieces passed down from a loved one...well worth restoring on all sorts of levels. Please post some pictures if you can...as you can see this helps diagnose what action to take. I replace and restore quite a few handles...and you have a number of ways to go. What I didn't show on that WARD for instance is this (posted ages ago):







...some rather ancient and risqué graffiti! Wonderfully primitive isn't it?

Unfortunately the other side needs a bit of a repair.....






I may just leave it...but will have a think this morning and if I decide to go ahead with a graft...I will photograph the stages for you to decide what you want to do. 

By the way...Meluish was a supplier and toolmonger....the full catalogue is here:

CLICK AND BE PATIENT!

You will be needing 386W Page 32..... 8) 

See you after the bootfair!

Jim


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## Setch (12 May 2012)

The ride doodle is brilliant - very nicely rendered given the size and medium!

I'm picturing a Samuel L Jackson-esque - "Give me my chisel - it's the one with Yo Mama on it!"


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