# laptop computer stand and wall table



## devonwoody (29 Sep 2009)

I would like to make this item below before the end of the season, but I have got stuck in a rut the last two years making boxes.
Anyone got any plans or drawings available / advice on making such an item.
Timber would be solid wood, not laminates, and I have sycamore/Am.Ash, maple,sapele available.
The laptop would store on shelf above drawers, top would have boxes already made  and drawers would have bills to be paid stored.


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## SketchUp Guru (29 Sep 2009)

Here's a start. I can send you the model and you could flesh it out or I can try to work on it in my spare time.


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## head clansman (29 Sep 2009)

hi devonwoody 


you say laptop to be stored on shelf when not in use , what about when your not at home left there on show to any would be opportunist , just a thought the design of the lower drawers is it possible for it to go into say the middle one and lock it for a bit of security and piece of mind .laptops ain't cheap and we all know how insurance companies like to wriggle out of any payment claims . hc


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## devonwoody (29 Sep 2009)

Thanks above.

Dare I say we live in a fairly low crime area, also the wife keeps saying she wants a new laptop  

Like to hear construction methods I should undertake, most probably two drawers, should I make top out of 4 boards? could I use maple and have a sapele boundary all round top?

Lower shelf, would also be solid timber, only drawer bottoms man made board.


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## head clansman (29 Sep 2009)

hi devonwoody 

dare i say it low crime area don't exist anymore . unfortunately 

most of the frame work will be mortise and tenon all drawers basic construction with dovetails etc top sounds nice though maple with the sapiele edging keep us all posted as your progress i'm sure other will help, if i can give any advice feel free to ask, no problem . hc


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## SketchUp Guru (29 Sep 2009)

Looking forward to seeing your results. 

Guess you won't need the model or a plan then?

Cheers,

dave


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## devonwoody (29 Sep 2009)

Dave R":25p92bc1 said:


> Looking forward to seeing your results.
> 
> Guess you won't need the model or a plan then?
> 
> ...



Yes please a plan it will definatelyt inspire me to start Thursday if available.

Middle shelf or under shelf, I have no idea which way to go?


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## head clansman (29 Sep 2009)

hi devonwoody 

missed that about the boarding for the top, well i don't know of any rule of thumb for the width of the boarding to make the top and lower shelf , having said that i don't feel your that far wrong in the width you suggest to make 14 " i suppose the more boards cut, if you can quarter sawn, the better . but it will mean the more work for you also joining them all together , but hey that don't matter, it's the quality your after. hc


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## kirstiviljoen (30 Sep 2009)

I am sorry to tell you but I think this is desk of computer not laptop. Because usually people don't put their laptops on shelf or desk. anyways good work


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## devonwoody (30 Sep 2009)

kirstiviljoen":hd9phmlo said:


> I am sorry to tell you but I think this is desk of computer not laptop. Because usually people don't put their laptops on shelf or desk. anyways good work



Its required only for storage of laptop when not in use. Hence it will be stored below.


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## SketchUp Guru (30 Sep 2009)

DW, I just banged out the thing yesterday before going to work and didn't check the height. I got up early today to work on this in hopes of having something for you in time. Anyway, I've come up with a couple of questions. The dimensions you've added to the scan make it taller than than it is shown in the photo. Not high enough for knees underneath, though. Do you want the drawer assembly to be lower or higher? Do you want the drawer box to be shallower than shown?





Top shown at 14 by 24 and 20" tall. Drawer unit is 4-3/4" high.


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## devonwoody (30 Sep 2009)

Dave I would prefer 3" off the ground 8"drawer height 8"space leaves 2"top and apron.

Maple is OK and only 11per cent moisture reading. 

Going for two drawers only.

Back home with Maple collection plus a 12ft. length of black walnut, a bit scruffy.


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## SketchUp Guru (30 Sep 2009)

8 + 8 + 3 + 2 = 21 on this side of the pond. What would you like to change? Overall height? Or one of those other numbers?

Two drawers in understand. Two shallow full-width or two deeper ones side by side?


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## devonwoody (30 Sep 2009)

Dave R":3k97djus said:


> 8 + 8 + 3 + 2 = 21 on this side of the pond. What would you like to change? Overall height? Or one of those other numbers?
> 
> Two drawers in understand. Two shallow full-width or two deeper ones side by side?



Italian wine did it my honour.

7" space, 7" drawer 3" off the floor, 3"for apron and top. 

2 drawers a divider in the middle. top and bottom of drawers show cross pieces.


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## SketchUp Guru (30 Sep 2009)

You could've at least shared the wine. 

Alright. I'll see what I can do for you.


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## devonwoody (30 Sep 2009)

Dave R":u7t5vpo0 said:


> You could've at least shared the wine.
> 
> Alright. I'll see what I can do for you.



Tjamls/

Thanks, its still working.


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## devonwoody (30 Sep 2009)

Timber obtained today. some 75mm thick Canadian Maple which has a moisture content of 11 percent, so should be ready for immediate use. I think it is also suitable to be quarter cut to make boards for the top. 
I would still like to contrast the maple with either Sapele or the black walnut also obtained has a reject piece at the same time as Maple.






What advice can you give re contrast edge for the top?


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## SketchUp Guru (30 Sep 2009)

Howziss?






As to using the sapele or black walnut, I suppose you could trim out the edges of the table top and maybe the edges of the drawer fronts. Or, if there's enough, you could use, say a 3" wide piece in the top as a stripe running the length of it. Repeat that stripe in the top and ends of the drawer case. Or you could make the drawer fronts out of a your contrasting wood.

I used mortise and tenon joints to join the aprons to the legs. The case is mitered on the edges so the grain continue around to the ends from the top. 

The back looks like the front with a couple of panels echoing the drawer fronts.


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## devonwoody (1 Oct 2009)

Genuine thanks DaveR for your input which is going to be the main part of this construction.

Can others suggest how I should put the contrast edge to the top ends, the sides I feel can be glued straight to the table edge. Thinking narrow strip but concerned that this will not be stable on ends. 

In the meantime I will prepare timber for legs today.


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## SketchUp Guru (1 Oct 2009)

I sent you an e-mail. 

One thought that comes to mind about the contrasting wood is to miter the edges of the top and apply the edging to the miters. Trim the edging fush with the top edge of the miters so the vertical cases show the contrasting wood color but it doesn't carry over onto the top. You could do the same thing with the face frames, too.

Like this:


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## devonwoody (1 Oct 2009)

Thanks Dave, I have decided on a top panel as posted at the projects forum section.

However to uk members Dave kindly sent me a sketchup drawing together with his advice on construction which I have pasted below.

quote.
.
Hello John,


Here's the SketchUp model of the table. There are a few details left to show but it should give you a start.


I drew the box with mitered corners much as you'd build a small box. In this case, though the ends are a continuation of the top. Maybe you could think of it as one of your small boxes on steroids and turned on its side. I also mitered the edges of the face frame on both the front and back so that the edges would look the same going all the way round.


To attach the legs to the box, I'm thinking that you would use a couple of dowels or loose tenons between the ends of the box and the legs. It's a long grain joint so the dowels would only be for locating the legs. Otherwise glue will hold just fine. In thinking about assembly, I think I would change the tenons on the apron pieces so they come all the way to the top of the legs. The mortises would be similarly extended upward. Then you would attach the legs to the box and slide the apron pieces in from above.


The panels on the back of the box would be left loose sine they are solid wood. They would get a tongue milled all the way around to fit into grooves. I drew them to fit tightly but I think there should be a bit of a space around them to echo the gap around the drawer fronts.


I also need to add spacers between the drawers and the case sides to keep the drawers running straight.


So, a few details to flesh out but I wanted to make sure it looked like what you have in mind. The model was drawn in inches since that's what you had on your original scan. I hope that will be alright.


Dave


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