# 8.A New toy



## pops92 (11 Apr 2022)

Today I printed a featherboard for my Record BS300 works great. I have also fitted adapters to all my power tools. So much stuff to make in the workshop. Really great bit of kit.


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## Spectric (11 Apr 2022)

pops92 said:


> Really great bit of kit.


More info as we do not know what this bit of kit is!


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## Gordon Tarling (11 Apr 2022)

3D Printer?


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## shed9 (11 Apr 2022)

A tad random......


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## sploo (11 Apr 2022)

Anet A8 maybe?


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## murphy (12 Apr 2022)

Still waiting to know what type of 3D printer it is?


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## pops92 (12 Apr 2022)

Sorry about that my phone is playing up.


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## Spectric (12 Apr 2022)

Can we have some more info with regards to the printer you used and some details about how you go about making something like that featherboard, I am sure there are many of us who would have something that they would like to make if they had the knowledge. People need to remember that there are a lot of us older generation around here who grew up when the only way to print something was on a typewriter, they looked like this!


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## pops92 (12 Apr 2022)

Hope video works attached. This is a 3d printer making another featherboard for guys router. I got the printer at Xmas this year and just can't stop making stuff. I have now fitted dust extraction adaptors to all my kit in the garage.
The printer I have is a Creality Ender 3 v2 cost around 180 but vary a lot in price. There are so many makes to choose from. They look easy to use but they aren't .
Video won't work so here's a photo. Printing this now 6.5 hrs.


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## pops92 (12 Apr 2022)

To make the above you need a something to produce it. One of the easy (cad) computer aided drawing softwares is Tinkercad. Once you have designed it you then need to put on another piece of software they call a Splicer. This will make the design into layers soo the printer can understand it and produce it. Layer by layer or slice by splice. Each layer is approximately .2 thick coming out of a .4mm nozzle.
Photos shown are items I have made with it.


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## Inspector (12 Apr 2022)

If I might make a suggestion re the planer/thicknesser adaptor. Make one that fits the end of the hose and leave off that black adaptor that is reducing the diameter and restricting the airflow. If you can also lengthen the conical portion it will also help.

Pete


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## pops92 (12 Apr 2022)

Inspector said:


> If I might make a suggestion re the planer/thicknesser adaptor. Make one that fits the end of the hose and leave off that black adaptor that is reducing the diameter and restricting the airflow. If you can also lengthen the conical portion it will also help.
> 
> Pete


Thanks for that.But this is how I use on all my adapters and its OK for me.


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## TRITON (12 Apr 2022)

pops92 said:


> Hope video works attached. This is a 3d printer making another featherboard for guys router. I got the printer at Xmas this year and just can't stop making stuff. I have now fitted dust extraction adaptors to all my kit in the garage.
> The printer I have is a Creality Ender 3 v2 cost around 180 but vary a lot in price. There are so many makes to choose from. They look easy to use but they aren't .
> Video won't work so here's a photo. Printing this now 6.5 hrs.
> View attachment 133459


Given youre now an experienced 3D printer. Whats your assessment of the one you have ?. I sure would like to get one, but theres no many choices now, and its hard to judge whats worth it for basic printouts.
Every time I look into this, theres the basic, then folk say Oh you must make sure it has this, or that or t'other, so its hard to be able to judge what good the basic one like you have is any good.

I wouldnt have a problem spending £200, but I know theres different filaments, some can be used and some cant. Still a bit of a minefield for me knowing whats what.


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## Spectric (13 Apr 2022)

Thanks for the info @pops92 , how good are these printers in the quality of the finished product and is there any cleanup required like when something is taken out of a sand mold? 
This sounds like something that a company I worked for in the eighties used to make prototype parts except they were in a form of paper mache and it was the size of a container but it worked on layers. How well do the layers adhere to the previous layer and are they visible in the finished product?



pops92 said:


> To make the above you need a something to produce it. One of the easy (cad) computer aided drawing softwares is Tinkercad. Once you have designed it you then need to put on another piece of software they call a Splicer.



I assume the drawing needs to be a 3d model, not 2D so what formats can the Splicer software accept because 3d CAD can be expensive, but I suppose it depends on what you are trying to make.


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## sploo (13 Apr 2022)

I too have an Ender 3 v2 with a number of mods (though not quite as many by the looks of pops92's photo). It's a great budget machine.

You can use free CAD tools such as SketchUp Make (with a plugin to export to STL format) to make your objects (though plenty of designs are available from Thingiverse and others).

Slicing software for FDM printers is readily available; Cura is great, and completely free.

I use PLA filament (and some PLA+). It can be brittle, and doesn't stand up to heat that well, but I've rarely found it a problem. Other filaments such as PETG or ABS are a bit more difficult to print, and the budget printers won't generally do the most "difficult" filaments as the hot end can't safely get to a high enough temperature.

Layers will be visible in FDM prints; though can be pretty smooth with small layer heights. A bit of sanding and filling (or painting) can make things look good (I recently printed some large "trumpet" ports for a loudspeaker design). Layer adhesion is good (assuming no problems with a print).

If you want (almost) no visible layer lines straight from the machine you need to start looking at resin printers; but they're generally more suited to aesthetic models rather than mechanical parts (as the resin tends to be very brittle once cured).

Clean up is generally related to the necessity of supports; if it can be printed with a flat surface on the build plate and no need for extra supporting material then almost no clean up is possible. Complex objects with overhangs will require supports; with associated sanding afterwards.


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## Lard (13 Apr 2022)

TRITON said:


> Given youre now an experienced 3D printer. Whats your assessment of the one you have ?. I sure would like to get one, but theres no many choices now, and its hard to judge whats worth it for basic printouts.
> Every time I look into this, theres the basic, then folk say Oh you must make sure it has this, or that or t'other, so its hard to be able to judge what good the basic one like you have is any good.
> 
> I wouldnt have a problem spending £200, but I know theres different filaments, some can be used and some cant. Still a bit of a minefield for me knowing whats what.



Thats my exact thoughts too! I’d love to get one.

I would also like to ask a question in regard to that feather board…..for an application like that, do all filaments possess enough ‘tension’ or ‘spring’ or did you have to chose a specific one for that purpose? I’m just thinking that in that situation a rigid plastic would simply snap if any backward force is applied.


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## Jacob (13 Apr 2022)

I make feather boards from offcuts and the band saw. 5 minutes from start to finish.


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## sploo (13 Apr 2022)

Lard said:


> Thats my exact thoughts too! I’d love to get one.
> 
> I would also like to ask a question in regard to that feather board…..for an application like that, do all filaments possess enough ‘tension’ or ‘spring’ or did you have to chose a specific one for that purpose? I’m just thinking that in that situation a rigid plastic would simply snap if any backward force is applied.


My $0.02 would be that PLA featherboard fingers would likely fail after a while - it's not great under that sort of load. Some other filament types might fare better.


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## Jacob (13 Apr 2022)

sploo said:


> My $0.02 would be that PLA featherboard fingers would likely fail after a while - it's not great under that sort of load. Some other filament types might fare better.


Wood is good. My feather-boards have lasted for years.


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## TRITON (13 Apr 2022)

Jacob said:


> I make feather boards from offcuts and the band saw. 5 minutes from start to finish.


Yes Jacob, as can everyone else here. We're talking about 3D printed ones so try to stay on topic, there's a good chap


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## Jacob (13 Apr 2022)

TRITON said:


> Yes Jacob, as can everyone else here. We're talking about 3D printed ones so try to stay on topic, there's a good chap


Yes but can you make anything useful economically with one?


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## Spectric (13 Apr 2022)

I would say that just like woodworking 3D printing could be just a hobby so the economics don't really mater, just think how much we spend on woodworking tools compared to the return in revenue, frightening thought. Unless people pursue these interest then technology will not progress so at some point in the future we will have 3D printers that can just make MDF furniture in situ, where will it all end?


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## Adam W. (13 Apr 2022)

Jacob said:


> Yes but can you make anything useful economically with one?


Probably not.


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## sploo (13 Apr 2022)

It's a valid point (right materials/techniques for the job). I made a funnel for easy oil filling of a lathe, which was 3D printed (as turning from a piece of material would have been wasteful), but the threaded portion on the bottom was turned from steel and glued to the cone as 3D printed threads can be weak.

Whilst I could have made the funnel using other techniques the 3D printer is very useful for odd shaped parts that are time-consuming to make by hand.


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## sploo (13 Apr 2022)

Here's a few random examples of "stuff that a 3D printer is good for"...

The Colchester Chipmaster lathe has a forward/off/reverse switch for controlling the motor, but mine had a VFD conversion and was missing the original parts. A 3D printed bracket allowed a replacement switch to be mounted at the right angle to interface with a rod:


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## sploo (13 Apr 2022)

My lathe was also missing the mechanical variable speed gearbox, but I really like the original speed control design (a centre wheel that can be turned several times, in order to get an outer wheel with the speed readings to rotate (more slowly). A bit of lathe work, but mostly 3D printing, resulted in a part that reproduces the original behaviour of the speed control wheel, but now interfacing to a potentiometer (which controls the speed using a VFD)...


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## sploo (13 Apr 2022)

And finally, some custom designed loudspeaker ports...


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## Jamesc (13 Apr 2022)

I have had a 3D printer for a few years now and wouldn't be without it. It has become an invaluable tool in my arsenal. Is it the be all and end all no, but then a hand plane is pretty useless if you want to drill a hole.
As a weekend metal/wood worker one advantage for me is I can design something in cad and print it up during the week, yes it can take a while but so what, I am working anyway and it just gets on with it.
I have made all sorts of useful items (I have never printed an ornament). I printed all the normal hose adaptors etc but it really comes into its own when you learn to draw (even TinkerCad is really useful). I have made a new control console for my milling machine, Indicator holders for the lathe and mill and prototyped components that are destined to be made in metal. It is a great way to visualise what you are making and make sure everything will fit before committing to a couple of days machining.
I have even printed stencils for my wifes cake making.
The thing with any tool is to learn to use it and understand what it can and (just as imprtantly) can't do.
In short it is a tool like any other. Will I be 3D printing the kitchen cupboards that are next on my project list, no definately not. Will I 3D print the router jig to make the fancy cut-outs my wife likes - you bet I will.


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## pops92 (13 Apr 2022)

Plenty of input here and valid points. I spent 4 months on Facebook groups gleaning knowledge before I took the plung. I decided on the Creality Ender3 v2 again gaining information on the sites. This suited my needs as I am not interested in models or figures.
I bought from Creality uk and got a deal which included 2 x 1kg spools of PLA filament. 
With the knowledge gained beforehand of YouTube and FB groups I was up and running pretty quick.
You need to be able to use a computer quite well in my opinion as you will struggle to get the full benefit otherwise.
I have had this since Xmas and on my 6 roll of filament and due to making stuff for friends and others the spools have cost me nothing.
It becomes addictive designing stuff and tweaking other stl designs to improve them.
I am by no means an expert on this just an hobbyist same as I was with my Neje Laser.
.


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## DrPhill (13 Apr 2022)

Jacob said:


> Yes but can you make anything useful economically with one?


Depends who you are. Company I work for is designing and making making robots. Far quicker to print the CAD drawings than machine them [EDIT: for the prototypes/test pieces]. Saves money and time. Does that count as economic? For me personally I cannot imagine a use at home..... (but I have said that before about tools and wound up buying them).


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## thebruiser (13 Apr 2022)

pops92 said:


> To make the above you need a something to produce it. One of the easy (cad) computer aided drawing softwares is Tinkercad. Once you have designed it you then need to put on another piece of software they call a Splicer. This will make the design into layers soo the printer can understand it and produce it. Layer by layer or slice by splice. Each layer is approximately .2 thick coming out of a .4mm nozzle.
> Photos shown are items I have made with it.
> View attachment 133460
> View attachment 133461
> View attachment 133462


Love the Spider-Man would you be willing to share the stl/step file.
cheers Gadget


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## paulrbarnard (13 Apr 2022)

Adam W. said:


> Probably not.


I’ve made many a custom box or bracket with mine.


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## thebruiser (13 Apr 2022)

I’ve had a 3D printer a few years and I can confirm it’s one of the best decisions to purchase. I have the Prusa mk3s mmu I have repaired broken parts on many of my tools using the right plastic made many tool helping gadgets and many parts for my hobby air rifle shootin.


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## pops92 (13 Apr 2022)

thebruiser said:


> Love the Spider-Man would you be willing to share the stl/step file.
> cheers Gadget


Here you mate.








Spiderman by


With great power comes great responsibility I've included a Mirrored left and right version, since I know there's a few people who don't know how to mirror within your slicer software.




www.thingiverse.com


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## paulrbarnard (13 Apr 2022)

paulrbarnard said:


> I’ve made many a custom box or bracket with mine.


In fact today I printed a lid for the cat food tins. Got fed up with putting a bit of foil over it.


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## thebruiser (13 Apr 2022)

pops92 said:


> Here you mate.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Cheers pops this will go down well with my grandson


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## Sheptonphil (13 Apr 2022)

More workshop stuff printed.

Wall hold mounts for the remote controls in the workshop, first one for the heater, a zero gap band saw table insert for the Jet JWBS16 and wall mount for the remote control for power sockets for dust extractor, radio and lathe led light batten.

None of these are available to buy, so just create and print them.


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## thebruiser (13 Apr 2022)

Gets addictive 3d printing


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## WoodchipWilbur (14 Apr 2022)

TRITON said:


> Yes Jacob, as can everyone else here. We're talking about 3D printed ones so try to stay on topic, there's a good chap


Yes. We're talking about 3D printed things - and that's very much ON topic. The point is that keen new 3D printer owners rush around, 3D printing EVERYTHING. In the case of a feather board, you need to step back and ask, "Is this a good way to make a feather board?"
It is not a matter just of how - or what filament. It involves engaging brain and asking, "Is this the best way to make, basically, a flat sheet of material with diagonal cuts in it?
You can see that the printer is 6.5 hours into a print and has used (wild guess) £5-£10 worth of filament. Again, my guess is that the design is one downloaded - so not a lot of time there. You can buy an ABS (stronger) featherboard for around £13 or, as Jacob says, make one in 5 minutes from scrap.
So, the point is... lovely and clever it may be; but is this the most appropriate technology?

Yes, I do have a 3D printer. Yes, I do use it for jobs where a 3D printer is appropriate. Yes, I do have several extractor hose adaptors. (And yes, Inspector, my cones are longer!!) In the same way, yes, I do have a small laser engraver - but I DON'T use it for printing rubbishy "etchings" of photos on wood or canvas just because it can. There are more appropriate ways to put a photo onto an item that will look better.

In a similar vein; my teacher used to say, "You can,, indeed, cross the Sahara in a Mini. It has been done. If you are considering crossing the Sahara though, you need also to consider whether a Mini is the most appropriate means of doing so. Or whether, perhaps, a camel might be better."


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## HamsterJam (14 Apr 2022)

Adam W. said:


> Probably not.



I have an Ender 3 and have printed all sorts of stuff including dust port adapters but mostly replacement parts for plastic things that have broken.

I use Tinkercad for simple stuff and Designspark Mechanical for more complex designs.
Thingyverse is also a great resource for designs.



pops92 said:


> Once you have designed it you then need to put on another piece of software they call a Splicer.



Actually slicer or slicing software - this converts the 3D design to code (called gcode) that is specific for your model of printer. I use Ultimaker Cura which supports a wide range of printers.


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## chris.s (14 Apr 2022)

I chose a Wanhoa I3 V2.1 3D printer as the company retirement gift nearly 5 years ago as it was an expensive toy I couldn't really justify but as a present thats OK, it's come in useful a few times and it's a bit dated now but yesterday printed out these tuner knobs to replace split originals, should have finished them to rub off the rough bits but wanted to see how they fitted and worked first. print time 36min each setting on top quality.


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## TRITON (14 Apr 2022)

WoodchipWilbur said:


> Yes. We're talking about 3D printed things - and that's very much ON topic. The point is that keen new 3D printer owners rush around, 3D printing EVERYTHING. In the case of a feather board, you need to step back and ask, "Is this a good way to make a feather board?"
> It is not a matter just of how - or what filament. It involves engaging brain and asking, "Is this the best way to make, basically, a flat sheet of material with diagonal cuts in it?
> You can see that the printer is 6.5 hours into a print and has used (wild guess) £5-£10 worth of filament. Again, my guess is that the design is one downloaded - so not a lot of time there. You can buy an ABS (stronger) featherboard for around £13 or, as Jacob says, make one in 5 minutes from scrap.
> So, the point is... lovely and clever it may be; but is this the most appropriate technology?
> ...


Oh bloody hell, it's the 3D police.


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## Insanity (14 Apr 2022)

thebruiser said:


> I’ve had a 3D printer a few years and I can confirm it’s one of the best decisions to purchase. I have the Prusa mk3s mmu I have repaired broken parts on many of my tools using the right plastic made many tool helping gadgets and many parts for my hobby air rifle shootin.



Same, it really is extremely useful. I have saved a couple of vacuums from the landfill by replacing the broken parts that were otherwise unavailable.



Spectric said:


> Thanks for the info @pops92 , how good are these printers in the quality of the finished product and is there any cleanup required like when something is taken out of a sand mold?
> This sounds like something that a company I worked for in the eighties used to make prototype parts except they were in a form of paper mache and it was the size of a container but it worked on layers. How well do the layers adhere to the previous layer and are they visible in the finished product?
> 
> I assume the drawing needs to be a 3d model, not 2D so what formats can the Splicer software accept because 3d CAD can be expensive, but I suppose it depends on what you are trying to make.



The quality is extremely good if set up properly. However you get visible layer lines and the print will be porous. This can easily be solved by painting them with resin or other similar offerings on the internet. People are using the concept of 3d printing carbon fibre molds which is something I might actually try out!

There is quite a lot of free 3D software available, with an abundance of YouTube videos offering excellent tutorials.


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## Insanity (14 Apr 2022)

WoodchipWilbur said:


> You can see that the printer is 6.5 hours into a print and has used (wild guess) £5-£10 worth of filament. Again, my guess is that the design is one downloaded - so not a lot of time there. You can buy an ABS (stronger) featherboard for around £13 or, as Jacob says, make one in 5 minutes from scrap.



Your wild guess is far off. Depending on his slicer settings, the actual cost of a 6.5 hour print with PLA is average £1.50, which includes the electric and filament.


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## thebruiser (14 Apr 2022)

sploo said:


> I too have an Ender 3 v2 with a number of mods (though not quite as many by the looks of pops92's photo). It's a great budget machine.
> 
> You can use free CAD tools such as SketchUp Make (with a plugin to export to STL format) to make your objects (though plenty of designs are available from Thingiverse and others).
> 
> ...



I have been using the free hobby license for fusion 360 now for about 18mth and I find it easy to navigate. If there is something I'm not sure on there is a very good support on there website and on YouTube kevin Kennedy is a good teacher at explaining how to use.


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## thebruiser (14 Apr 2022)

I have made all sorts I must have used around 15 spools they start to gather and empty ones com in for cable tidy chain, string,rope me I extended mine to accommodate sand paper role. One drawback from 3d printing is failed prints, I had one 11hrs into a 14hr print. Failed prints and waste is a part of the experience.


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## thebruiser (14 Apr 2022)

Fusion 360 is not complicated


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## TRITON (14 Apr 2022)

pops92 said:


> Today I printed a featherboard for my Record BS300 works great. I have also fitted adapters to all my power tools. So much stuff to make in the workshop. Really great bit of kit.View attachment 133380


What about a design change, making the main body separate from the feathers so you can fit a new set of feathers should they become damaged or wear out.
It would also mean the replacement bit would take less time and material to reproduce.

Possibly even make the holders to they can join together side by side to make a long featherboard for use on a table saw or such.


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## thebruiser (14 Apr 2022)

TRITON said:


> What about a design change, making the main body separate from the feathers so you can fit a new set of feathers should they become damaged or wear out.
> It would also mean the replacement bit would take less time and material to reproduce.
> 
> Possibly even make the holders to they can join together side by side to make a long featherboard for use on a table saw or such.



That could easily be done and a valid point and surgestion


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## thebruiser (14 Apr 2022)

Jamesc said:


> I have had a 3D printer for a few years now and wouldn't be without it. It has become an invaluable tool in my arsenal. Is it the be all and end all no, but then a hand plane is pretty useless if you want to drill a hole.
> As a weekend metal/wood worker one advantage for me is I can design something in cad and print it up during the week, yes it can take a while but so what, I am working anyway and it just gets on with it.
> I have made all sorts of useful items (I have never printed an ornament). I printed all the normal hose adaptors etc but it really comes into its own when you learn to draw (even TinkerCad is really useful). I have made a new control console for my milling machine, Indicator holders for the lathe and mill and prototyped components that are destined to be made in metal. It is a great way to visualise what you are making and make sure everything will fit before committing to a couple of days machining.
> I have even printed stencils for my wifes cake making.
> ...



Here's an ornament I made for my
Granddaughter


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## sploo (14 Apr 2022)

thebruiser said:


> I have been using the free hobby license for fusion 360 now for about 18mth and I find it easy to navigate. If there is something I'm not sure on there is a very good support on there website and on YouTube kevin Kennedy is a good teacher at explaining how to use.


I've avoided Fusion due to the repeated bait and switch tactics used by Autodesk, and just generally have an aversion to cloud based software (for software where there isn't actually any requirement for it to be Internet connected). I'm likely in the minority, given the size of Fusion's user base, but I know some have moved to FreeCAD due to the constant removal of features.

Edit: typo


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## thebruiser (14 Apr 2022)

sploo said:


> I've avoided Fusion due to the repeated bait and switch tactics used by Autodesk, and just generally have an aversion to cloud based software (for software where there isn't actually any requirement it to be Internet connected). I'm likely in the minority, given the size of Fusion's user base, but I know some have moved to FreeCAD due to the constant removal of features.



I've not been on it long came from tinkercad but it was limited, saw fusion and just stuck with it, so I've not missed any features so far, still I only use as a hobby.


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## sploo (14 Apr 2022)

thebruiser said:


> I've not been on it long came from tinkercad but it was limited, saw fusion and just stuck with it, so I've not missed any features so far, still I only use as a hobby.


I think it's mostly been in the last couple of years they've moved lots of previously free features to paid tiers; after many people have been using said features for years. As it's cloud based you have no option to stay on an old version to keep those features; you're entirely at the mercy of Autodesk's whims.


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## thebruiser (15 Apr 2022)

sploo said:


> I think it's mostly been in the last couple of years they've moved lots of previously free features to paid tiers; after many people have been using said features for years. As it's cloud based you have no option to stay on an old version to keep those features; you're entirely at the mercy of Autodesk's whims.



I can’t comment on the past feature, but one feature I would like to have is the prismatic for converting stl mesh to solid body it saves a lot of clean up.


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## thebruiser (15 Apr 2022)

I got more into 3D printing as I’ve not able to use workshop tools only do basic things so most of my equipment will have to be passed on its a shame as I just purchase a shaper origin last August for a few commissioned projects, never got to use it shame sorry to see it go but if you can’t physically use anything it time to pass on for someone else to put it to good use.


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## thebruiser (15 Apr 2022)

thebruiser said:


> I got more into 3D printing as I’ve not able to use workshop tools only do basic things so most of my equipment will have to be passed on its a shame as I just purchase a shaper origin last August for a few commissioned projects, never got to use it shame sorry to see it go but if you can’t physically use anything it time to pass on for someone else to put it to good use.



some of my equipment has gone to good homes already which I’m pleased at I know the gentlemen who are taking good care of them.


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## MorrisWoodman12 (17 Apr 2022)

Several years ago I received a substantial refund from HMRC. What should I use it for? A Robox 3D printer. I started using SketchUp but objected when they wanted money for it as I didn't think it worth it. Migrated to DesignSpark Mechanical and have used it ever since. Glad to see someone else (@HamsterJam ) uses it too. I've recently tried to use Fusion 360 as it has a 2D drawing facility which DSM lacks but really can't get on with it and can't see what everyone else is raving about.

I must admit its main 'woodworking' use is for dust extraction adaptors. However some other things do crop up like knobs for thumb nuts and screws where a steel nut or screw is embedded for durability. One of the more complex bits has been a flexible dust hose for the pillar drill (see pictures) and the bits to attach it to the pillar. Other things around the house also abound. It has so many uses only limited by your imagination and ability to transform it into











something which can be printed.


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## MorrisWoodman12 (17 Apr 2022)

PS Maybe we should have a 3D printed objects thread so we can share items of general use.


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## Lorenzl (17 Apr 2022)

I have a Flashforge Dreamer two head printer but have not made many two coloured parts. I usually have a different colour in each side to match what I am printing. I also have a spool of dissolvable support material which worked well for a couple of prints then I had problems and haven't used it since.
I have printed hose adaptors, custom enclosures for my electronic projects, tool holders etc. Currently I am testing some different filament out on some wire spools ready to try some 16+hr prints.
These big prints are for a dust hood for my saw when the riding knife and dust shield are removed along with a automatic two port blast gate.
I made a print a cover for the joint in the conservatory to replace the crappy piece of plywood which was there. I had to make it in two halves and glue the two sides together. It needed quite a lot of filling/sanding to make it look good. I should have used a finer print setting but each half took about twelve hours and I am not totally happy leaving it to run un supervised. The new material I am using now has been a pain as it has gummed up the printer and moved one of the nozzles which took a few hours to fix. So it does not always go smoothly.


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## Lorenzl (17 Apr 2022)

As to software I use Solidworks at work which is great. I use Fusion and Design spark mechanical at home which are both free although you are only allowed 10? editable models in fusion. I find both of these a bit harder to use than Solidworks and Inventor.
I suppose that is why Solidworks is £14,000 a licence and Inventor £9,000


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## paulrbarnard (17 Apr 2022)

Lorenzl said:


> I have a Flashforge Dreamer two head printer but have not made many two coloured parts. I usually have a different colour in each side to match what I am printing. I also have a spool of dissolvable support material which worked well for a couple of prints then I had problems and haven't used it since.
> I have printed hose adaptors, custom enclosures for my electronic projects, tool holders etc. Currently I am testing some different filament out on some wire spools ready to try some 16+hr prints.
> These big prints are for a dust hood for my saw when the riding knife and dust shield are removed along with a automatic two port blast gate.
> I made a print a cover for the joint in the conservatory to replace the crappy piece of plywood which was there. I had to make it in two halves and glue the two sides together. It needed quite a lot of filling/sanding to make it look good. I should have used a finer print setting but each half took about twelve hours and I am not totally happy leaving it to run un supervised. The new material I am using now has been a pain as it has gummed up the printer and moved one of the nozzles which took a few hours to fix. So it does not always go smoothly.
> ...


The desolvable material is difficult to print with as it absorbs moisture very quickly. It’s worth drying it out in the oven every time you want to use it.


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## Lorenzl (17 Apr 2022)

Thank you for that @paulrbarnard that probably explains why it went well for the first couple of uses as I left it out next to the printer. I will have another go after drying it.


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## sploo (17 Apr 2022)

Yea, I keep all my spools in a sealed plastic box with some desiccant beads. The spools can be dried in the oven (~35C for an hour or so), and the beads can also be dried (albeit at a hotter temperature).


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## thebruiser (17 Apr 2022)

In fusion you can have more than 10 you just put them as read only till needed.


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## thebruiser (17 Apr 2022)

B


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## Insanity (18 Apr 2022)

It's all a personal choice on what you feel best with. I have yet to try Design Spark, currently on Fusion and the 10 model limit is a bit annoying! Solidworks and Inventor seem overkill for 3D printing especially at those prices! 

And Morris, if you want sketchup, download sketchup Make 2017. It's free forever


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## Insanity (18 Apr 2022)

thebruiser said:


> In fusion you can have more than 10 you just put them as read only till needed.



Ah, nice one, I didn't realise you could do that! Thanks for that!


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