# My Attempt at a review of the new Stanley 60.5 Block Plane



## cutting42 (3 Jun 2009)

Hi Gang

Well this is a bit of a first for me as I am not much of a hand tool user yet. However following a few hints I managed to get agreement for a nice plane for my birthday (I also got a No4 and some Footprint chisels but they will be reviewed later). This first review is just for the 60.5 and with the exception of using my dad's tools about 30 years ago is the first time I have used a decent plane so my comparisons are very much as a newby. I was very tempted with the LV/LV block planes but the cost just was a mental block for me and I would only have been able to have the one plane. I did take a look and I can see why they are popular but anyhoo, we are here for Stanley.

I think part of me has an affection for the Stanley name, it seems like a very traditional and reliable name, so when it was announced a while back that they would be releasing an updated range of planes, my interest was piqued, so much so that as soon as I had the new Tilgear catalogue I wizzed down there and purchased the 60.5.

Here it is in its box and packaging:












And in its paper wrapping






It seemed very heavy to me which feels nice and the shape of the dimple in the side fits the fingers well. The other thing that struck me was the quality of the casting and how well finished the ductile Iron body was.






The second item that impressed me was the thickness of the blade and how easy it was to disassemble the plane into its constituant parts, all of which are reallly well machined with smooth operation.











The adjustable mouth is a bit of a mystery to me, I can see how it works, I just don't know why? Or what determines how you set it. I set it about 1mm from the blade once I set the depth which seemed to work ok.











The adjuster is a Norris type I am reliably informed and it is fantastic, especially coming from el B&Q special. The adjuster is real smooth and the side to side adjustment is so easy to use I am very impressed. The Black thingy that holds the blade in place is an Aluminium alloy I guess as it is pretty light but the brass tightening adjuster works well and you can set it very accurately to allow for adjusting with some drag on the blade to get very fine settings.






The blade is chunky as I mentioned before and I have not sharpened it yet as my workshop is in turmoil due to major reorganisation. However the bevel was mirror like at the tip (not quite captured that in the picture but trust me it was) but the back could certainly use finishing off. Does one use a micro bevel on a Block plane - that would change the angle wouldn't it? Told you I was a newby!

I cleaned it up and set up for some shavings and this is what I got:











I was very happy with the planing along the grain but was struggling a bit with cross grain but that might be a combination of my poor technique and the blade not being as sharp as it could be although it cut hairs from my arm very effectively. Also the wood I had to hand was some rough old pine and Iroko, not sure if these are difficult or not. 

I hope this has been of use to you all, I would highly recommend the plane with the caveat of my limited experience. No4 to follow soon I hope.


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## Calpol (3 Jun 2009)

Noice! I really like the new blocks, very slick...

Not a bad review sir, but with reference to the mouth opening, it can be opened for heavier cuts and closed up (not actually closed, obviously) for fine shavings...

Looks good though, honestly I don't want one :^o

Also could you move the last picture so it's below the other one, there's only about half the text on my screen :?


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## cutting42 (3 Jun 2009)

Calpol":2pz77yby said:


> but with reference to the mouth opening, it can be opened for heavier cuts and closed up (not actually closed, obviously) for fine shavings...



Ta for that, makes sense.



Calpol":2pz77yby said:


> Also could you move the last picture so it's below the other one, there's only about half the text on my screen :?



Your wish is my command 8)


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## Calpol (3 Jun 2009)

Much better 8) 

You're better off putting a micro bevel on the blade, in fact I don't know a reason not to! I'm all for back bevels as well


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## bugbear (4 Jun 2009)

cutting42":1vrtlv6p said:


> The blade is chunky as I mentioned before and I have not sharpened it yet as my workshop is in turmoil due to major reorganisation. However the bevel was mirror like at the tip (not quite captured that in the picture but trust me it was) but the back could certainly use finishing off.



Interesting - it sounds as if the blade is given a quick strop or buffer wheel (or similar) at the factory, so that it's usable immediately.

Given that most "regular" woodworkers would expect to hone their own blades, this (IMHO) is a marketing decision aimed at newcomers.

You need to be very careful when flattening the back - especially when using SiC paper, it's rather easy to dub the corners. Use fresh paper, glued down, and around 240 grit at the coarsest.

We (I!) would be most interested to hear how flat the back of the blade is - it looks nicely ground, so I would expect "fairly damn flat".

Add; the reason for flattening the back (in chisels and block plane blades *) is purely so that a (flat) fine stone can *polish* the back. The back must be polished (at least next to the edge) so that the edge can be truly sharp. There's damn all point working to create a beautifully honed and polished bevel is the other side of the edge is rough.


BugBear

(*) in a conventional bevel down bench plane, the other reason for a flat back is so that cap iron can make a good fit.


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## cutting42 (4 Jun 2009)

bugbear":2ru96lnh said:


> Interesting - it sounds as if the blade is given a quick strop or buffer wheel (or similar) at the factory, so that it's usable immediately.
> 
> Given that most "regular" woodworkers would expect to hone their own blades, this (IMHO) is a marketing decision aimed at newcomers.
> 
> ...



Got a better pic of the bevel and I am a newby and it was nice to be able to use it "out of the box" and also to know I can improve it.






and a pic of the back






seems very flat, but other than my steel straight edge I have no means of testing the flatness, dial gauge etc. I am looking forward to trying to flatten it, thanks for the words of caution.


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## newt (4 Jun 2009)

Certainly looks like Stanley are attempting to enter the premium end of the market, I guess this can only be a good thing. I wonder what the 3 main plane makers think, have to ask at West Dean.


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## woodbloke (4 Jun 2009)

newt":14cb5znh said:


> Certainly looks like Stanley are attempting to enter the premium end of the market, I guess this can only be a good thing. I wonder what the 3 main plane makers think, have to ask at West Dean.


Pete - I agree...I wonder if any of the new Stanley planes will be at WD over the weekend? - Rob


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## Evergreen (4 Jun 2009)

Very useful review and excellent pictures. Thanks for posting.

Iroko is a tough wood but I've found it usually more consistent to plane than pine which can be a real PITA around knots and wild grain.


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## bugbear (4 Jun 2009)

Evergreen":244ilm7k said:


> Very useful review and excellent pictures. Thanks for posting.
> 
> Iroko is a tough wood but I've found it usually more consistent to plane than pine which can be a real PITA around knots and wild grain.



Some Iroko has "striped" (AKA "rowed") grain, which is quite tricky.

BugBear


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## Vann (4 Jun 2009)

Thanks for your review (so far). Although I'm loathe to support Stanley, I'm curious to see if their new range is any good, and I'm sure many others are too.


cutting42":13h3tz1z said:


> .... other than my steel straight edge I have no means of testing the flatness, dial gauge etc.


Have you run that straight edge over the plane's sole? I'd also be interested to know if the sides are at 90° to the sole.

Cheers, Vann.


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## cutting42 (5 Jun 2009)

Had a go at taking a pic of the squareness with my engineers square and a bright light behind. Not too bad is my impression, but I don't have much to compare with.


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## bugbear (8 Jun 2009)

Vann":2bax2ht8 said:


> Thanks for your review (so far). Although I'm loathe to support Stanley, I'm curious to see if their new range is any good, and I'm sure many others are too.
> 
> 
> cutting42":2bax2ht8 said:
> ...



It is possible (if Stanley are being clever) that they didn't expend effort (and therefore your and my money) making the sides accurately 90 degrees in this model, which will pretty much never be used for shooting.

It would therefore be unwise (IMHO) to extrapolate the _likely_ accuracy of the sides of the Stanley LA Jack from the _measured_ accuracy of the block plane.

BugBear


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## Chems (8 Jun 2009)

Looks really nice, how much was it and where from?


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## yetloh (8 Jun 2009)

Realistically, you will only know if it is really flat when you come to flatten it! I do this using freshly flattened (using a coarse diamond stone) waterstones. I had a holed blade for my LN 60 1/2 which, as you would expect, was truly excellent and the blade of my new Veritas nix 60 was almost as good. Flatness of the back of the blade is a good measure of the care a maker takes. Judging by the photos of the Stanley blade, sharpness could certainly be taken to a significantly higher level by flattening the back (or putting a back bevel on it) and honing the bevel. 

Jim


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## cutting42 (8 Jun 2009)

Chems":zhn5bbii said:


> Looks really nice, how much was it and where from?



Bout 76 quid from tilgear!


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## bugbear (23 Jun 2009)

opinions and photos of the new #4 over here:

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthread ... ed&sb=5&o=

BugBear


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## Vann (23 Jun 2009)

bugbear":1y5ot8x3 said:


> opinions and photos of the new #4 over here:


Yup, and some joker by the handle "Bugbear" has already offered his comments (probably nobody we know....).  

Cheers, Vann.


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## bugbear (23 Jun 2009)

Vann":2ng93q4g said:


> bugbear":2ng93q4g said:
> 
> 
> > opinions and photos of the new #4 over here:
> ...



No-one I've ever met, certainly...

BugBear


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## FrankieLee (18 Oct 2013)

Great review, thanks! I'm thinking of buying one of these planes. I can get a new one for £52.00 delivered to my door.


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## RB61 (19 Oct 2013)

If you are truly a rookie at hand planes, I would like to offer one piece of advice regarding this plane. The cap on top of the iron will bend fairly easily if the wheel is tightened too much. The instructions do not offer much direction as to how to judge the correct tightness. 

This was my first plane and I over tightened it. That caused the cap to bend and the cap would no longer stay in place when the plane was being used. It would creep toward the back of the plane.


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## Dangermouse (19 Oct 2013)

My reviews are here and I absolutely recommend all the premium range of bench planes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRhW8D_AQ2o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WF5Q9ZcEdzY
and here on the forum
stanley-sw-premium-no4-t67709.html?hilit= stanley plane
stanley-62-sweetheart-la-jack-plane-t67083.html?hilit= stanley plane


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## FrankieLee (19 Oct 2013)

Thank you for the advice RB61, and thank you for the links Dangermouse. I am a complete rookie at carpentry. I have been lurking about the forum for a few weeks now, excellent forum, full of very interesting write-ups, tips and the likes.
I used to build motorcycles(Streetfighters) and build one-off alloy parts for motorcycles. I gave that up a year or so ago, and I'm now gathering up a few hand tools for general woodworking. My first project is a bench, I will start the build around the middle of next month. I have been buying a few Stanley saws, Tenon, coping saws etc. Plus a new circular saw(Bosch). A set square and adjustable bevel(Bahco) 
I hope to to be buying a new drill, Router and a few other bits and pieces that I'd need around the same time as I'll be buying the timber for the bench. The main things that I'm interested in building are display boxes for fishing Flies. My brother makes the flies and I'd like to make him a few boxes before christmas. Any links/recommendations would be gratefully received.


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## Jacob (19 Oct 2013)

Dangermouse":1vkx6ahz said:


> My reviews are here and I absolutely recommend all the premium range of bench planes.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRhW8D_AQ2o
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WF5Q9ZcEdzY
> and here on the forum
> ...


I've only tried the SW 4 so far and I have to say it is one of the best planes I've ever used, except for the irritatingly slack adjuster. Nevertheless it laterally adjusts better than the LV la smoother and the mouth adjustment is better than the Clifton 4 (which has the clunky bedrock design which just isn't as good as they say).
It's better than the competition and a third of the price.

PS adjustment slack doesn't matter too much as long as you have positive feedback such that you can _feel _that you are advancing or retracting the blade, but the SW4 just feels vague and sloppy. Maybe it'll get better with more use and familiarity. It might even be worth getting an engineering shop to make a working copy of the adjuster - it could still be cheaper than the opposition and be top plane.


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## J_SAMa (19 Oct 2013)

That looks nice!!
Now why don't Stanley put this kind of effort into making their regular Baileys and not this premium "Sweetheart"...
Seriously, the Baileys need a resurrection. Now that Stanley ARE capable of doing it. Maybe they just need a little push. LN and QS Bedrocks are good, but I would prefer Baileys made to the same standards for their lower price tags.
Have I gone a little off topic?  
Sam


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## J_SAMa (19 Oct 2013)

FrankieLee":3fu3oife said:


> Great review, thanks! I'm thinking of buying one of these planes. I can get a new one for £52.00 delivered to my door.


You might also want to consider the QS/Juuma block plane. Around the same price, but from what I hear they have a better reputation than the Stanley planes.


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## cutting42 (20 Oct 2013)

Cool to see this bit of my earlier posting history pop up again. I am a bit more experienced as a woodworker now and use this plane more than any other. I also have the No 4 which is a lovely thing as Jacob said. Agree the cap is a little weak but don't bear down on it too hard and it works well. The blade has stood up to many years sharpening and holds an edge very well.

I have to say I prefer having a tool with Stanley written on it rather than Quangshang or whatever!


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## Jacob (21 Oct 2013)

cutting42":2tb3t7hg said:


> ....I also have the No 4 which is a lovely thing as Jacob said. ....


I wouldn't quite say "lovely" - it's an ugly object IMHO but it works OK. Clifton and the various american novelty planes are much better looking!


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## Dangermouse (21 Oct 2013)

Jacob, "its not about the looks " LOL


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## Jacob (22 Oct 2013)

Just had a fiddle with my no4. I've reset the adjuster - basically screwing it in further (and screwing the nut thingy back) and it work a lot better. Less wobbly, positive feedback and no dead points. Still a whole turn of slack but that's tolerable. I don't know why I didn't do it sooner.
Next improvement would be to add a lever cap. A bit of adjusting and an old 4 cap will fit and it'll be the best of the 4 bunch!
Might sell on my Clifton - I don't like the bedrock design and it isn't worth the money. You have to try these things.


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## lurcher (22 Oct 2013)

i also got the plane this year for my birthday also got the stanley bevel up jackplane for my money you cant go wrong altho i am no tool tart i also highly rate my marples planes above the old stanley / bailey planes i see as a good thing that you can get very good useable tools for a good price .the old lads 100 yrs ago didnt have the tools we have today and look what quality them lads could manage i am all for it take paul sellars and his aldi chisels


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