# Plywood for lining out workshop walls



## Moonsafari69 (21 Dec 2017)

I plan to line the workshop walls with 3/4” - 18mm plywood.

My questions are:

*1) Structural or non structural? *

*2) Softwood or hardwood?*

What are your thoughts?


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## Marineboy (21 Dec 2017)

I’m aware I’m not answering your question, but isn’t plywood overkill for this job? Why not OSB? It’s a lot cheaper and just as functional as ply, eg ability to take screws, support shelves etc.


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## Moonsafari69 (21 Dec 2017)

Cost isn’t a major player as this will be a workshop that will stay with me for hopefully a long time. Ply will no doubt react better to moisture but to be honest I’ve not really considered OSB. I may do though, depending on the feedback I get on the different types of ply. Thanks for the idea.


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## shed9 (21 Dec 2017)

Used 1/2" non-structural hardwood throughout mine and was plenty strong enough. In reality you will likely use the framework to support heavy shelving. Been up for many years without issue. I found the best place for price at the time was Wickes (of all places) and I haggled with them on top of that. OSB won't work out that much cheaper IMO and not as good a finish for an internal wall.


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## Phil Pascoe (21 Dec 2017)

Mine was covering 100mm PU foam, so had to take screws for shelves etc. - I used 18mm shuttering.


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## Moonsafari69 (21 Dec 2017)

Are there any advantages / disadvantages over the structural / non-structural ply?


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## Fitzroy (21 Dec 2017)

Osb is ugly, painful to paint well, and still ugly afterwards.


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## Moonsafari69 (21 Dec 2017)

Fitzroy":31k6witx said:


> Osb is ugly, painful to paint well, and still ugly afterwards.



:lol: yep I figure ply is the way forward. There just seems to be more options to choose from than I expected.


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## Bodgers (21 Dec 2017)

What are the reasons for choosing plywood over say plasterboard or insulated plasterboard? 

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## Moonsafari69 (21 Dec 2017)

Main reason for the ply is so it can take a good knock and be strong enough to hang stuff from. It’s for the workshop so will avoid plasterboard.


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## RobinBHM (21 Dec 2017)

Whatever you choose, I would go and see it. There is plywood and there is plywood......if you get my drift!

Some of the budget softwood plywoods can be pretty clean. The cheapest shuttering ply can be ok but can also be quite skanky.

Also some merchants dont store it properly, so if you dont want it buckled be careful where you buy.


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## Bodgers (21 Dec 2017)

Moonsafari69":2pqxt7b4 said:


> Main reason for the ply is so it can take a good knock and be strong enough to hang stuff from. It’s for the workshop so will avoid plasterboard.


Interesting, yeah I suppose that will be useful.
I was thinking of insulated plasterboard in my garage workshop for fire safety and warmth. 

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## shed9 (21 Dec 2017)

RobinBHM":ooy338uq said:


> Whatever you choose, I would go and see it. There is plywood and there is plywood......if you get my drift!



Very much this, if you can, select the sheets yourself. Whenever I've ordered large quantities of ply in the past I've always added a few extra to the list as I know I'm going to reject some at the point of delivery.


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## Brandlin (21 Dec 2017)

+1 for OSB here.

My triple garage workshop has been clad in 11mm OSB for several years and supports many cabinets shelves etc without any issues. 
Using plywood for this would simply be a waste in my view.


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## Moonsafari69 (21 Dec 2017)

Certainly going to choose the boards myself. I have a Wickes just down yhe road, maybe not the cheapest but worth the extra few quid to select them I’m sure.


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## Bodgers (21 Dec 2017)

shed9":20dqourm said:


> RobinBHM":20dqourm said:
> 
> 
> > Whatever you choose, I would go and see it. There is plywood and there is plywood......if you get my drift!
> ...


Here is some 18mm 'hardwood' ext plywood sent to me a few weeks ago:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM ... 94UElPei1B

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM ... 94UElPei1B


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## MikeG. (21 Dec 2017)

Moonsafari69":2bx10bjp said:


> I plan to line the workshop walls with 3/4” - 18mm plywood.
> 
> My questions are:
> 
> ...



The answer is that the very worst 18mm ply will be more than enough to satisfy any need you have in the building. It will provide the necessary racking resistance, act as a vapour barrier, retain your insulation, and be more than enough for fixing medium weight stuff to directly without going into a stud. Therefore, the choice is entirely down to your aesthetics and budget. I have no idea at all why anyone would use anything more than 12mm for this task. Handling 18mm sheets is a nightmare.


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## Moonsafari69 (21 Dec 2017)

Thanks Mike, do you think 12mm will be plenty for the task then?


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## beech1948 (21 Dec 2017)

Used 18mm cCinese hardwood ply for my workshop walls. Inspected it first. Bought one sheet to cut up for a project and it was quite good. Solid, few voids, reasonably flat without waves.

I rejected OSB because its just wafer board. It is ugly. It attracts dust and holds it to the surface. It can suck up gallons of paint. Its rough and not too pleasant to handle. Plus point its relatively cheap.

Ply has a smooth surface and good holding power. Does not hold dust to the surface like OSB. Easy to paint and absorbs not too much paint. Better to screw into. Minus point is it can be damned heavy.


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## MikeG. (21 Dec 2017)

Moonsafari69":1nso29uz said:


> Thanks Mike, do you think 12mm will be plenty for the task then?



Yep. 9mm will likely do it fine too, depending on the size and siting of the building.


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## [email protected] (21 Dec 2017)

lined mine with 18mm green grade flooring chipboard. Very hard surface to this so great for fixing things to. I mounted them end up and they slotted together so no joins as such. I found this the cheapest 18mm man made board.


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## MattRoberts (21 Dec 2017)

I've just recently clad my shop in 18mm osb, mounted on 20mm battens. I painted it white (one coat of cheap emulsion). I'm very happy with it - 18mm is thick enough to take a screw and hold a decent amount of weight. The white paint helps with the light a huge amount.

One thing I wish I'd done though, is put some insulation behind it. If I didn't care about the cost and I cared about the look, I'd go for plywood, but only the cheap stuff - zero point in getting anything more expensive if you're going to paint it. Crappy void ridden 18mm ply takes a screw just as well as baltic birch


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## Moonsafari69 (21 Dec 2017)

MattRoberts":61w11gkd said:


> I've just recently clad my shop in 18mm osb, mounted on 20mm battens. I painted it white (one coat of cheap emulsion). I'm very happy with it - 18mm is thick enough to take a screw and hold a decent amount of weight. The white paint helps with the light a huge amount.
> 
> One thing I wish I'd done though, is put some insulation behind it. If I didn't care about the cost and I cared about the look, I'd go for plywood, but only the cheap stuff - zero point in getting anything more expensive if you're going to paint it. Crappy void ridden 18mm ply takes a screw just as well as baltic birch



The plan for mine will be similar Matt, but adding the insulation. Plan to use 2x4 batons so I can use 4” of sound insulation behind the board. Have enough space now so figured I’d do it right and do it once. Same with the white paint job too, that worked well in my old workshop so I’ll do that again.


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## memzey (21 Dec 2017)

18mm OSB 3 lines my shed. Not the prettiest but takes screws well and is hard wearing. The other consideration I had was sound proofing: OSB3 is denser and has better soundproofing properties than ply. This may not be important to you but in my circumstance, with near neighbors that like a moan, it made sense.


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## decas (21 Dec 2017)

I built a garden studio a few years ago and lined it with 18mm spruce ply. The ply came from B&Q on a trade account with an extra discount for 10+ sheets. Reasonable price, easy to work, very pleased with the result. Ply was applied over a good amount of insulation. Given 2 coats of trade emulsion it has stood about 6 years of use very well. The sheets were fixed with stainless screws and the edges joined with dry fitted dominoes to keep them tidy without having to cut the boards to match the joins to the fixing battens. If I were to do it again I would use 12mm softwood ply but it was not readily available then.
Cheers
Dave


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## Moonsafari69 (21 Dec 2017)

That’s a proper job Dave. Good idea with using the dominoes so you didn’t need to line the boards up with the batons, hadn’t considered that. Why the 12mm if you were to do it again, have you found 18mm just not needed? Looks great btw.


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## fezman (21 Dec 2017)

I did one wall of my WIP garage to workshop conversion with 18mm hardwood ply - worked a treat. Use it for fixing shelving to, having a tool wall. 

When time / costs permit - I will likely board out the rest in the same way. 

F


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## Bodgers (21 Dec 2017)

decas":2zht944n said:


> I built a garden studio a few years ago and lined it with 18mm spruce ply. The ply came from B&Q on a trade account with an extra discount for 10+ sheets. Reasonable price, easy to work, very pleased with the result. Ply was applied over a good amount of insulation. Given 2 coats of trade emulsion it has stood about 6 years of use very well. The sheets were fixed with stainless screws and the edges joined with dry fitted dominoes to keep them tidy without having to cut the boards to match the joins to the fixing battens. If I were to do it again I would use 12mm softwood ply but it was not readily available then.
> Cheers
> Dave


No issues with fire/building regs doing this? 

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## decas (21 Dec 2017)

18mm is overkill. I used it because it was available and I didn't want to use OSB where it shows (it's the wife's studio). I think 12mm would be quite strong enough and it is lighter and cheaper.
Dave


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## decas (21 Dec 2017)

Bodgers
B Regs were not involved. Structure was less than 30 sq.m and away from boundaries.
Dave


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## Moonsafari69 (21 Dec 2017)

Has anyone had need of following building regs (given size of building or proximity to boundary)?

Guess this is your point Bodgers?


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## Bodgers (21 Dec 2017)

Moonsafari69":wslcy5cn said:


> Has anyone had need of following building regs (given size of building or proximity to boundary)?
> 
> Guess this is your point Bodgers?



Sort of yes. I also have an interest in not unnecessarily causing a fire hazard as well  

I think with my workshop being an actual brick built garage, I'm not sure if the regs will come into play. It isn't attached to the house.

My other issue with plywood on the walls is filling the gaps, cosmetic I suppose, but with plasterboard there is set method of taping and plastering the gaps.


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## Moonsafari69 (21 Dec 2017)

Suddenly, and maybe unnecessarily a tad fire paranoid... damnit

I also have a detached garage that’ll soon be a new workshop. Have you installed dry lining on yours then? How has that panned out?


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## decas (21 Dec 2017)

Softwood ply has a rough/textured surface which was fine for the studio and would I think be fine for a workshop. Accurate and straight edges align very well with the dominoes. Wipe decorators caulk into any cracks/splits/gaps.
Take the point about fire risk but there is always something that will burn. Have a couple of extinguishers installed.
Dave


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## Bodgers (21 Dec 2017)

Moonsafari69":2gre8oaq said:


> Suddenly, and maybe unnecessarily a tad fire paranoid... damnit
> 
> I also have a detached garage that’ll soon be a new workshop. Have you installed dry lining on yours then? How has that panned out?



Not yet.

I was planning on getting insulated plasterboard. Haven't done it yet, but I was planning on doing it in the summer in prep for next winter. A builder/contractor friend recommended this route as a way of not eating into space too much by going the kingspan route.

http://www.building-supplies-online.co. ... EwQAvD_BwE

It's basically 22mm thick, and you are getting plasterboard and some basic insulation rolled into one for less than 20 quid a sheet. Possibly overkill though, and you aren't getting the benefit of being able to mount stuff as easy.


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## Bodgers (21 Dec 2017)

decas":1na2xim6 said:


> Softwood ply has a rough/textured surface which was fine for the studio and would I think be fine for a workshop. Accurate and straight edges align very well with the dominoes. Wipe decorators caulk into any cracks/splits/gaps.
> Take the point about fire risk but there is always something that will burn. Have a couple of extinguishers installed.
> Dave


Dominoes for alignment - good idea.

Yeah, its true, you have to sensible about it.


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## GrahamF (22 Dec 2017)

Moonsafari69":2q5w2srk said:


> Has anyone had need of following building regs (given size of building or proximity to boundary)?
> 
> Guess this is your point Bodgers?



When I extended my detached garage/workshop, had to get planning permission but exempt from building regs.

Single brick construction, used slate battens on dpc lined with 12mm plywood.


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## ED65 (22 Dec 2017)

Fitzroy":34ierjln said:


> Osb is ugly, painful to paint well, and still ugly afterwards.


I like the look of OSB. I like how it looks with a clear finish on it, painted with a washy coat so it's coloured but you can still see the wood, and painted solid white so you're left with an interesting variegated texture.

Obviously it's a taste thing but something I think can be said in favour of OSB from an objective standpoint is that one piece tends to look very much like another, they have a useful sameness. With plywood though you can have one piece that's gorgeous and the next in the very same stack could have an ugly grain pattern you wouldn't want to stare at for years to come on the workshop wall.


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## harvestbarn (22 Dec 2017)

You might also consider 18mm white melomine covered mdf I used this for a large new workshop battened out 5"; to allow 4" close cell foam insulation to be sprayed in. The area now has air con making the electric heating much more cost effective. 
I had previously used 18mm ply on another workshop but found the painting needed a lot of coats for a good solid white colour.


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## Yojevol (22 Dec 2017)

My w/s is lined with 18mm chipboard and has given good service for the last 12 years. It takes all the weight of tool racks, cupboards and shelves. Sometimes it is worth spreading the load with battens.


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## Moonsafari69 (22 Dec 2017)

Loads of input on this, so thank you to everyone that’s contributed. There’s a lot of consideration to taste and some more to product and durability. To be honest my conclusion is I think I can’t really go wrong, which in itself is a big help.

I’ll be getting started on the workshop after Christmas so I’ll pop a few photos on here to show you the progress.

Thanks again!


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## Peter Sefton (22 Dec 2017)

Sorry I haven't read all the comments but I would use OSB for strength but over board it with plasterboard for bouncing light, sound proofing and it's fire retardant qualities. Any moisture control should be done with a vapour barrier under the OSB and a breather membrane outside the wall cavity in my opinion.

Have a happy and productive Christmas!

Cheers Peter


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## MikeG. (22 Dec 2017)

Peter Sefton":1ilsnm6r said:


> ........Any moisture control should be done with a vapour barrier under the OSB.......



That's not necessary, as the OSB has such a high resistance to the passage of water vapour that it acts as a vapour barrier itself. This is the reason that it should be used on the inside of walls, not the outside.


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## Peter Sefton (22 Dec 2017)

MikeG.":331re2mf said:


> Peter Sefton":331re2mf said:
> 
> 
> > ........Any moisture control should be done with a vapour barrier under the OSB.......
> ...



Interesting Mike, looks like advice is moving on since I built my workshop a few years ago. I just quickly found this article on the web.

https://www.backtoearth.co.uk/blogs/res ... trol-layer

I am sure you are more up to date than me.

Thanks Peter


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## MikeG. (22 Dec 2017)

I have to be, Peter. Beware of that article: it is somewhat simplistic, and discusses only one approach out of the many possible ways of dealing with vapour, insulation, and walls.


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## MattRoberts (22 Dec 2017)

One last thing - I ripped the sheets in half lengthways - made them much easier to handle. So battens at 605mm on centre


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## DoctorWibble (1 Jan 2018)

OSB or ply seems to be the go to lining for workshops but I think there's quite a good case to be made for soundboard or better still a combination of soundboard and OSB.

The advantages are thermal mass, far better sound insulation, light and looks / ease of finishing.

Thermal mass or rather the lack of it is an issue when insulating existing buidlings /garages from the inside. Essentially the only warm thing inside is the air and so the building cools down very fast when doors are opened for example. A layer or two of sound board (a denser more sound proof version of common plasterboard) is a very effective heatsink in a workshop sized space and helps give your workshop a very stable temperature. My workshop even retains a good deal of heat overnight and through the next morning.

Soundboard is only marginally more expensive than ordinary plasterboard and so is still very cheap. If you do two layers you need only tape and joint the top layer so its quick and easy. Taping and jointing isnt hard either. I followed some youtube videos and managed a good finish first time. 

If you put up osb first you will have something solid to fix things to including of course the layer(s) of plasterboard you then fix to it so you only need to worry about studs with the osb. 

The awkward part of linging out buildings is dealing with windows and doors. But those complications are there regardless of how many layers you add. Extra layers underneath usually add suprisingly little to the work. 

If I ever do another one I'll probably go for osb (cheap, flat and of reliable quality) followed up with two layers of sound board plainted with flat matt white emulsion.


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## Moonsafari69 (1 Jan 2018)

Yes i agree, the soundproofing is really important, for me definitely. For the walls I’ve opted for 4” RWA45 sound block set in battons 600mm apart and topped with 12mm ply.

So far I’ve installed about 100m Twin & Earth for power and lighting. Next step will be the ceiling (before I do the walls) which will be 4” RWA45 again but with 9mm ply.


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