# 1962 Meddings Dril-tru Drill Press (Mk2 9373/LT/II) light restoration



## SledDriver (28 Jul 2021)

Note: I have posted an almost identical thread on a well known American garage website, but thought it sensible to post it here as it's more likely that people might own a Meddings drill. I am British as well. I hope the fact that this is a 'duplicated' thread isn't an issue - even though it's only on another site. This also explains why the beginning introduction is a bit more detailed. I'm new here but will be using this forum going forward.

Good evening,

I recently acquired an old British-made drill press (or pillar drill as we often call them in the UK), and I thought I'd post a few photos as I go through the process.

Meddings started production during WW2, and are still going today. They have made a range of products, but are most known for their drill presses. They range from 'home user' to large industrial machines. They have a superb reputation for quality.

My machine is a 'Dril-tru' model, which as far as I can ascertain is perhaps the most basic model they built. Even then, it has a head machined from a single casting. The quill assembly is heavy and beautifully finished. It has a supposed 1/2' capacity in mild steel, with 4 inches of spindle travel. It has a rise/fall table with no angular adjustment, as the view of Meddings was that the squareness of the table was critical, and drilling angles could be achieved through work-holding. It weighs 153lbs.

I assessed the drill and decided to give it a light restoration, initially just a strip and paint. Having got it to pieces however I decided to go a little further and replace the (original) bearings, despite the spindle having a run-out of just 0.02mm, and then they would happily last another 60 years.

Here's a few photo's so far;

The drill as it stood, having lived in a multi-use workshop and caked in grease/sawdust.


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## SledDriver (28 Jul 2021)

And then dismantled, laying out the parts;


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## SledDriver (28 Jul 2021)

So far it has gone fairly smoothly.

- I will not rechrome the flaking chromed parts (handles). I don't see much value in what will be a home use drill, and good plating in the UK is expensive. I will sand off the remaining chrome back to bare steel, polish, then wax.

- I'm undecided about the (jacobs) chuck. At first I thought it had horrendous runout, but that only seems to apply to the upper 'tightening' section. A bit held in the jaws, or indeed the lower section of the chuck has a runout of approx 0.05mm. I can't imagine I'll achieve any better buying a new chuck.

- My only regret is dismantling the motor. Given how caked in grime the vents were, I thought it wise to at least get inside and get the grunge out. However, I had a devil of a time getting the pulley off (the shaft was mushroomed at the top, so I had to grind it down), and now I'm stuck with it half disassembled, not knowing quite how to take it apart, and now needing to replace the (previously fine) bearings because of the work I had to do to get the pulley off. 

Little bits of progress here and there.

I used a stripping disc on the angle grinder to take off most of the rust and paint from the larger pieces. No photos but I sanded the tables to a reasonable finish, but actually I left them with a few blemishes. There's a small bit of pitting here and there, it has no effect on use and if I try to sand/grind it off I'm just going to unflatten the table. 






I wire brushed the undersides of the tables to remove any loose scale, then treated with a rust converter called Kurust, which turns the rust hard and black (and paintable). 











I also cleaned up the plastic handles, starting with a fine scotchbrite wheel on the bench grinder, then finishing with a polishing wheel and compound. Original on left, finished on right. The different is much more pronounced in person.






I also renewed the spring assembly, removed, cleaned, refitted and greased the spring. before and after










I also gently cleaned the data plate using a very fine scotchbrite and some soapy water. After drying I finished with Renaissance crystalline wax and buffed clear. 






Finally, I've been adding various parts to my 'complete/clean' section of the bench. The normal routine is a wash in soapy water, dry it, various grades of scotchbrite wheel on the bench grinder, then coating with 3-in-1.


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## SledDriver (28 Jul 2021)

Getting the cast aluminium pulleys off the spindle;






The top pulley is actually stacked on two big bearings - don’t find many built this well. 






I’ve cleaned, primed and painted the big items. The colour is more vibrant blue than I had expected, but it actually seems quite close to the current Meddings blue, so a happy accident and I like the colour. 















I also polished and waxed the spring assembly cover.






Finally, I rebuilt the quill assembly using new bearings. I’m slightly mindful that the rotation feels a little stiff. I wondered whether the bearings were slightly wonky, but they sit in defined and tight races so perhaps they’re already packed with a thick grease (sealed bearings) and just aren’t as loose as the previous. When I drive it with a hand drill it seems smooth and simple enough so perhaps it just needs to bed in.


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## SledDriver (28 Jul 2021)

Painting progress. I hand painted the badge in modelling enamels. Starting with a primed badge, then filling the red, then picking out the white. I've done this before but it was quite tricky. The casting quality of the badge isn't brilliant (or perhaps someone has attacked it with sandpaper before) so there weren't many defined edges to paint the white. I think it looks good though. 














I also rebuilt the top pulley spindle/bearing assembly with new bearings.


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## SledDriver (28 Jul 2021)

And completely unrelated, but I went to a tool auction the other day. It's largely cheap stuff, but I saw this sitting outside looking very unloved, and despite it being 3-phase (which I don't have), I looked at the estimate and decided to bid a little on it.






Regrettably a bidding war erupted, and I had to splash out to afford it.

In the end I spent..........................£2.36

I gave the guy at the auction a fiver because he had offered to forklift it into my car and I felt guilty getting it for that price.

I'll look at it once I've finished my drill. The plan of action will be to remove and check the driveshaft/bearing seats etc. If that's all fine, I'll stick in a new 1hp motor and freshen it up. If the shaft is unrecoverable, I might cut the top flat just above the badge, stick on a flat plate, then mount a bench grinder on it.

For £2 (before the dreaded £0.36 in fees) how can you say no?


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## Doug B (29 Jul 2021)

Looking good so far @SledDriver, I’d definitely take the chuck to pieces & clean it up I did this with mine about 7 years ago & it’s worked really well ever since. Also worth giving the motor a real good clean they do get full of crud.
I posted a thread years ago on my refurb if it’s of any use Meddings pillar drill (picture heavy)


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## clogs (29 Jul 2021)

drill press is looking good....
Please dont cut up the grinder.....I;m sure everything is fixable....
done and finished u'd have grinder/polisher for life or u could sell it for around £350 plus.....


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## SledDriver (29 Jul 2021)

Doug B said:


> Looking good so far @SledDriver, I’d definitely take the chuck to pieces & clean it up I did this with mine about 7 years ago & it’s worked really well ever since. Also worth giving the motor a real good clean they do get full of crud.
> I posted a thread years ago on my refurb if it’s of any use Meddings pillar drill (picture heavy)



Thanks. I’d soaked the chuck in acetone then dried out and oiled, but after refitting the chuck on the spindle I was getting a bit of runout, so I thought I might as well do as you suggested.






It came apart pretty easily and cleaned up well. I had a bit of a trial getting the jaws back in the right order but managed eventually. I then fitted it back on the spindle and checked the runout.

The runout on the spindle is 0.02mm, so that’s good. With a bit in the chuck it was showing around 0.2mm runout, so it appears that the chuck isn’t that straight. Through a process of removal, rotation and re-installation 4 or 5 times I got the runout down to just below 0.1mm. To improve on that I’ll need a new chuck I think, but at the moment that’s acceptable. 



clogs said:


> drill press is looking good....
> Please dont cut up the grinder.....I;m sure everything is fixable....
> done and finished u'd have grinder/polisher for life or u could sell it for around £350 plus.....



That’s only a last resort, if the bearing seats are all rusted out or something. If it’s a mess in there then I don’t know who has a milling machine big enough to sort it out! It’s been sat outside for at least 2 months so we’ll see, but if it’s recoverable I’ll fix it up.


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## Fergie 307 (29 Jul 2021)

Looking really nice. Never ceases to surprise me how a good old coating of sawdust, oil and so on can really preserve things like this, so they clean up like new. If you did ever want to plate parts at home then Nickel is very easy to do and looks good. I use it all the time on old American watches, which are often Nickel plated brass. If you want to Nickel plate steel then always a good idea to Copper plate it first, equally easy and cheap to do.


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## robump (30 Jul 2021)

Following with interest as I have a very similar one unrestored but in use! Only thing I don't have is the right chuck key, I've tried several but can't find the right one to fit so wondering what chuck you have and whether you know what key it uses? 
Thanks


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## SledDriver (30 Jul 2021)

Fergie 307 said:


> Looking really nice. Never ceases to surprise me how a good old coating of sawdust, oil and so on can really preserve things like this, so they clean up like new. If you did ever want to plate parts at home then Nickel is very easy to do and looks good. I use it all the time on old American watches, which are often Nickel plated brass. If you want to Nickel plate steel then always a good idea to Copper plate it first, equally easy and cheap to do.



Funny you should mention, I’ve actually been watching a few videos on nickel plating. If I did it I’d do the home brew method with a DC phone charger or something.

Do you have to be cautious nickel plating threaded parts, or is the coating sufficiently thin that it doesn’t really matter unless you leave it in for ages and ages.

Also, I’m slightly confused and concerned about sticking electrical things in liquids. You see guys holding the parts in the nickel acetate etc. Is that not a bit dangerous or is there some electrical principle I’m failing to understand.



robump said:


> Following with interest as I have a very similar one unrestored but in use! Only thing I don't have is the right chuck key, I've tried several but can't find the right one to fit so wondering what chuck you have and whether you know what key it uses?
> Thanks



I’ll measure up and get back to you.


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## Fergie 307 (31 Jul 2021)

SledDriver said:


> Funny you should mention, I’ve actually been watching a few videos on nickel plating. If I did it I’d do the home brew method with a DC phone charger or something.
> 
> Do you have to be cautious nickel plating threaded parts, or is the coating sufficiently thin that it doesn’t really matter unless you leave it in for ages and ages.
> 
> ...


Threads are not an issue, its too thin. I use a cheap variable voltage supply, about £8 on e bay. I find about 3 v gives the best results. Just make sure your + rod is the same material, so for nickel a nickel rod, copper a copper rod. You can either brush plate if you only need to do a small area. I just put shrink wrap over the rod so it can be held. If you get a kit then the small foam ends they supply are just cigarette filters. So dont buy ten for 3 quid or whatever, just go to the corner shop and buy a pack of slim filters, about a quid for over a hundred. For bigger brush plating wrap a hankerchief ovr some cotton wool and secure to the rod with a tie wrap. Make sure you keep the brush properly wet. If dip plating the just use copper wire to suspend parts. For small stuff like a watch bow i just solder a copper wire to one of the blind ends so it can be suspended. Most important things are the parts must be clean. I soak them in spirit vinegar before plating. The other thing to remember is that the plating is too thin to cover or fill any damage. If you have a scratch you will just end up with a plated scratch, so make sure you have the finish you want before plating.


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## J-G (31 Jul 2021)

Fergie 307 said:


> ...If you have a scratch you will just end up with a plated scratch, so make sure you have the finish you want before plating.


That's probably the most important piece of advice you will ever get! Plating will HIGHLIGHT any blemish.


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## SledDriver (31 Jul 2021)

Fergie 307 said:


> Threads are not an issue, its too thin. I use a cheap variable voltage supply, about £8 on e bay. I find about 3 v gives the best results. Just make sure your + rod is the same material, so for nickel a nickel rod, copper a copper rod. You can either brush plate if you only need to do a small area. I just put shrink wrap over the rod so it can be held. If you get a kit then the small foam ends they supply are just cigarette filters. So dont buy ten for 3 quid or whatever, just go to the corner shop and buy a pack of slim filters, about a quid for over a hundred. For bigger brush plating wrap a hankerchief ovr some cotton wool and secure to the rod with a tie wrap. Make sure you keep the brush properly wet. If dip plating the just use copper wire to suspend parts. For small stuff like a watch bow i just solder a copper wire to one of the blind ends so it can be suspended. Most important things are the parts must be clean. I soak them in spirit vinegar before plating. The other thing to remember is that the plating is too thin to cover or fill any damage. If you have a scratch you will just end up with a plated scratch, so make sure you have the finish you want before plating.



Interesting. When you say a cheap variable voltage supply, do you mean something like this;









Electrical AC/DC 3V-24V Power Supply Adapter Charger Voltage Variable Adjustable | eBay


After comprehensive testing. Ensure safe use of electricity. Output: DC 3-12V / 3-24V / 9-24V adjustable. Output current: 5A/3A. DC plug: 5.5MM 2.5MM. Power:72W (9-24V)/ 60W (3-12V). we will do our best to help you solve all the problem well with good service.



www.ebay.co.uk





I had seen people doing it with phone chargers. When you say to make sure that the rod is the same material - I'm a bit confused. I assume you mean that in a nickel acetate solution you can only use a nickel anode, and in a copper acetate solution you can only use a copper anode? Otherwise you get contamination and the plating won't work.

I imagine that I'll just buy strip nickel/copper so it can be bent over the edge of the jar and the crocodile clips attached to the outside.

When you say 'shrink wrap over the rod so it can be held' - what are you referring to there? Is that to avoid any shocks?

And at 3V, how long would you leave the average part to be coated, so it can be subsequently polished?

Many thanks.


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## SledDriver (31 Jul 2021)

robump said:


> Following with interest as I have a very similar one unrestored but in use! Only thing I don't have is the right chuck key, I've tried several but can't find the right one to fit so wondering what chuck you have and whether you know what key it uses?
> Thanks












This is the chuck and chuck key on my drill. I think it's probably the original one. It's a 13mm (1/2') chuck.

This table;






Jacobs Chuck Key Selection Guide | Zoro.com


Finding a replacement drill chuck key for most brands is easy with this Jacobs’ cross-reference information.




www.zoro.com





Suggests this key;









Jacobs K3 Chuck Key JCM13700P20 | Zoro


Order Jacobs K3 Chuck Key, JCM13700P20 at Zoro.com. Shop a wide selection of Chuck Keys and Holders at Zoro.com.




www.zoro.com





Which seems to match up with mine (5/16 or 0.31' pilot size).

That's obviously the US site, and the UK site doesn't specify the K3 - but it says on the US site that it's Jacobs 3651, which corresponds to this in the UK;









Jacobs K3B Chuck Key 3651 | at Zoro


Jacobs - K3B Chuck Key available at Zoro.co.uk - UK's Leading Supplier of DIY Tools and Supplies'



www.zoro.co.uk


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## J-G (31 Jul 2021)

SledDriver said:


> And at 3V, how long would you leave the average part to be coated, so it can be subsequently polished?


Polishing should be done BEFORE plating (as Fergie 307 has said) (though some buffing may be done afterward)

The Voltage is not the important value - AMPERAGE and Area being plated are the figures you need to determine 'how long' to obtain a particular thickness.

I've forgotten most of what I learned during my time in the plating shop as an apprentice in the 50's but I do remember that we had to calculate the total surface area and then work out the time needed at what Amps to achieve the specified thickness. I also remember that we were working to extremely high precision - ie. millionths of an inch.

I have researched the internet for the appropriate formulæ but - other than buying an expensive tome - the best I've found is a table from the Nickel Plating Handbook :-





I can't tell you precisely how this relates to - and will give you actual figures for - laying down (say)10µm on to (say) 100mm² but you will see what information you need to find out.


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## Fergie 307 (31 Jul 2021)

SledDriver said:


> Interesting. When you say a cheap variable voltage supply, do you mean something like this;
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes thats the type of supply, but probably a lower range. I think mine goes from 3 go 9v. Your anode needs to be of the same material as you will probably transfer material from it, so you dont want contamination. You could use someting neutral but conductive like carbon fibre. For somefthing like a watch case back I would leave it in about ten minutes. You need to turn it from time to time as the plating builds up more on the side nearest the anode. If you get patchy results this will be because byou havent cleaned it down properly, the plating wont take on any areas the have the slightest trace of oil, like your fingerprints, or oxidisation of the metal.


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## Fergie 307 (31 Jul 2021)

J-G said:


> Polishing should be done BEFORE plating (as Fergie 307 has said) (though some buffing may be done afterward)
> 
> The Voltage is not the important value - AMPERAGE and Area being plated are the figures you need to determine 'how long' to obtain a particular thickness.
> 
> ...


As you say amps are the key mine is 3v 500ma, which works well for what i am doing. Variable is good as you can crank it up to suit something bigger, on mine the amps increase with the voltage. I may be wrong but I thiink in practice you can just leave it in longer and you will get a thicker deposit. Tailoring the input to the job makes it more efficient and faster. Happy to be corrected kif thats not quite right. Have plated some quite large items and found it beneficial to up the power a little.


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## J-G (31 Jul 2021)

Fergie 307 said:


> Tailoring the input to the job makes it more efficient and faster.


That's much more succinct than my effort  Yes - 'Tailoring the input' - was what we did but of course this was a full commercial enterprise making gauges and we could control both Amps & Volts (IIRC) to a very high precision. I distinctly remember having to set up some 20BA thread gauges to be chrome plated inside!! the bore on those is 0.34mm and I had to put a wire cathode inside making sure that it didn't touch the thread 



Fergie 307 said:


> Happy to be corrected if that's not quite right.


No correction needed (except to the typo  ) as far as I can tell - My time in that shop was only about 3 months and I haven't done any plating since but it was a very memorable time.


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## Fergie 307 (1 Aug 2021)

SledDriver said:


> Interesting. When you say a cheap variable voltage supply, do you mean something like this;
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Shrink wrap not to avoid a shock, the power is too low, but does ensure the current stays where you want it rather than being dissipated through you!


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## Fergie 307 (1 Aug 2021)

J-G said:


> That's much more succinct than my effort  Yes - 'Tailoring the input' - was what we did but of course this was a full commercial enterprise making gauges and we could control both Amps & Volts (IIRC) to a very high precision. I distinctly remember having to set up some 20BA thread gauges to be chrome plated inside!! the bore on those is 0.34mm and I had to put a wire cathode inside making sure that it didn't touch the thread
> 
> 
> No correction needed (except to the typo  ) as far as I can tell - My time in that shop was only about 3 months and I haven't done any plating since but it was a very memorable time.





Fergie 307 said:


> Shrink wrap not to avoid a shock, the power is too low, but does ensure the current stays where you want it rather than being dissipated through you!


If you buy acommercial brush plating kit then the anode is contaned in a plastic hosing, like a cheap ball point pen. The better ones have screw on tips to take different material ends, or a carbon fibre core which works with anything. I just use a rod of the appropriate material and solder a lead to it with a plug on the end to mate with the + wire. Another thing you can try as a preparation is to put the piece to be plated in a bath of spirit vinegar and a pinch of salt, the salt inmproves electrical conductivity. Then set it up with the item you are preparing connected to + , so your item becomes the anode. This will effectively strip a tiny amount off the surface, taking any invisible surface oxidisation with it. After a couple of minutes take it out and rinse with distilled water, then into your plating tank. I sometimes use this technique on pocket watch cases where it can be very difficult to thoroughly clean the area under the pendant joint. Practice makes perfect and as I say if you get a patchy or sreaky finish that is generally because there is contamination on the surface. To give you an idea i would put watch parts through a watch cleaning solution, then a second wash in pure alcohol. Both times 10 minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner at 30 degrees. Then carry out any remedial work and polishing, then repeat the cleaning process again before plating. Anyone contemplating this with a watch note that you must not normally subject the pallet fork or balance staff to this method of cleaning as the jewels on these components are typically held in with shellac, which will dissolve causing the jewels to fall off, a major PITA!


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## SledDriver (1 Aug 2021)

J-G said:


> Polishing should be done BEFORE plating (as Fergie 307 has said) (though some buffing may be done afterward)
> 
> The Voltage is not the important value - AMPERAGE and Area being plated are the figures you need to determine 'how long' to obtain a particular thickness.
> 
> ...





Fergie 307 said:


> Shrink wrap not to avoid a shock, the power is too low, but does ensure the current stays where you want it rather than being dissipated through you!



Thanks for the input. I've ordered a few bits to have a go. Might try that next week.

Without trying to sound dismissive, I'll likely just try and fudge it and see how I get on. I definitely won't be doing any formulae! I'll get it through trial and error.

I've made some good progress on the drill. The quill was reinserted, and the spring assembly and handle assembly were both fitted (which holds it all in). The finished depth stop and collar were fitted to the quill shaft. I reassembled the base, column, table and head, finally fitting the motor mount and various bolts. 

After disassembly and cleaning I reattached the chuck. The various felt gaskets are just stiff craft felt. They only serve to avoid banging painted pieces together.

There were very few issues. All I would say is that I made the column marginally too smooth (or gave it too much oil to prevent rust) which means that you currently have to crank down a bit on the table tightening handle or it has a tendency to slip easily. I won't do anything to remedy it - as the oil gets a little sticky that will go away on its own.

I've got to do the handles (remove the old plating, polish, then attempt to nickel plate). I also haven't tackled the motor yet. Please so far though;


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## Orraloon (2 Aug 2021)

That's scrubbed up rather well. 
Regards
John


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## Fergie 307 (2 Aug 2021)

Other option is just to replace the handles. I have an old sealey and just replaced the handles with stainless bar appropriately threaded at either end.


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## SledDriver (2 Aug 2021)

Finally got the motor apart today, and two new rubber sealed bearings ordered so they'll likely never be touched again!

I'm curious as to how best to clean the internals. I'm leaning towards a wipe with some isopropyl alcohol or acetone or something. It doesn't seem that dirty. Even just a damp cloth perhaps? I guess I could buy some contact cleaner like this?









WD-40 Contact Cleaner 400ml


Order online at Screwfix.com. Quick-drying, non-conductive spray. Easily cleans oil, dirt, flux residue and condensation from sensitive electronics and electrical equipment. Improves electrical contact in cars in damp conditions. Simply spray on and allow the product to dry before powering up...



www.screwfix.com





I don't know what the purple stuff is on the rotor.










I'm also getting ready to rewire the drill, but don't know much about electrics so I'd like some advice.

It's a single phase motor, and the old cabling is 3 core (red/black/green) which I understand to be pre-1977 colours. The rubber insulation is failing so I'm hoping to replace the lot with new cable.

With that in mind, what am I looking for in a cable? I would guess something like this?









Time 3183P Black 3-Core 1.5mm² Flexible Cable 10m Coil


Order online at Screwfix.com. Suitable for pond pumps and other outdoor cabling. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 5 minutes.



www.screwfix.com





Questions;

- I see options of 0.75mm, 1.5mm and 2.5mm. I'll be wiring it into a standard UK plug. What is the proper option?
- There are options of rubber or PVC coatings. Any reason to choose one over the other?
- Is there anything to watch out for when rewiring these things?


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## Phil Pascoe (2 Aug 2021)

2.5mm is large to get into a plug, 1.5mm I'd think better. The dial switch on mine failed so I replaced it with a standard no volt switch - iirc the switch can be wired for three phase so mark the terminals as you disconnect them.
You'll find out anyway. Be careful if you rewire to get the flex out of the way of the column - mine was pinched between the head casting and the column, how it didn't short I don't know. Is there nowhere locally you buy a couple of metres of flex?


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## SledDriver (2 Aug 2021)

Phil Pascoe said:


> 2.5mm is large to get into a plug, 1.5mm I'd think better. The dial switch on mine failed so I replaced it with a standard no volt switch - iirc the switch can be wired for three phase so mark the terminals as you disconnect them.
> You'll find out anyway. Be careful if you rewire to get the flex out of the way of the column - mine was pinched between the head casting and the column, how it didn't short I don't know. Is there nowhere locally you buy a couple of metres of flex?



Thanks for this. I'll use the 1.5mm. I've already taken the old wiring out and have hopefully taken sufficient photos of where everything went! It worked before I disconnected it all anyway.

I'll be careful of the column, but I think the way it runs on this one means it shouldn't get in the way. I'll run the cable with the head on of the column to avoid any issues.

I really don't know if there's anywhere I can buy the cable by the metre. That one from Screwfix seems to be the cheapest I can find for a shortish length.


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## Fergie 307 (3 Aug 2021)

Pre paint wipe. You can buy it at any place that sells car paint, or online. Brilliant for jobs like this, i just put things like this in a big old plastic water tank and blast it with the fluid in a gun on the compressor. Removes all the gunk without damaging anything and leaves no residue.


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## Jester129 (3 Aug 2021)

Wilkinsons sell cable by the metre.......HTH


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## stuffys (13 Dec 2021)

Evening SledDriver
Thank you for sharing all your info/updates on the restoration it has been soo informative. I have recently come into possession of much newer model of the Meddings Driltru...Feb 64 
I have started to dismantle and love your 'placing on paper and writing what/where' technique. Have copied and are near completion of the dismantling. I had the exact same problem with removing my pulley attached to the motor, the gib head key was damaged. So far I have noticed two things missing and one big problem.
Missing is my depth gauge and the chuck key, both I can replace. The problem was the motor might be dead, first time I turned it on, it started for about 5 seconds and then stoped. Next time I changed the plug fuse and tried again. Tripped the garage and the whole house, my better half was not impressed, it was late at night. The cable seem damaged, so I have purchased replacement and finger crossed replacing it should work. Found out a neighbour wires motor for a living so he might be able to have a look. Going to bother you with a few of questions-
How are you getting on with the rewiring?
Are you changing the bearings in the motor?
The new bearings you already fitted, did you get from Meddings? what size are the? How much?
Thanks again for sharing all your hard work, you have done an amazing job.
Michael.


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## Cabinetman (13 Dec 2021)

Jester129 said:


> Wilkinsons sell cable by the metre.......HTH


Beat me to it, yes good old Wilko's, you want rubber covered, I agree 1.5mm. Super rebuild, lovely solid bit of kit. Ian
Ps that steal of a grinder/polisher looks the biz, can’t wait to see your treatment done to it.


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## Westwood (13 Dec 2021)

Thats superb work and great inspiration for others , thank you for sharing
Now you've got a well made and fully restored British pillar drill. 
Only wish I was better at and had the confidence to tackle the many steps you describe and show. 
I have a smaller basic NuTool CH10 and a Burgess small bandsaw waiting to be restored


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## SledDriver (15 Dec 2021)

stuffys said:


> Evening SledDriver
> Thank you for sharing all your info/updates on the restoration it has been soo informative. I have recently come into possession of much newer model of the Meddings Driltru...Feb 64
> I have started to dismantle and love your 'placing on paper and writing what/where' technique. Have copied and are near completion of the dismantling. I had the exact same problem with removing my pulley attached to the motor, the gib head key was damaged. So far I have noticed two things missing and one big problem.
> Missing is my depth gauge and the chuck key, both I can replace. The problem was the motor might be dead, first time I turned it on, it started for about 5 seconds and then stoped. Next time I changed the plug fuse and tried again. Tripped the garage and the whole house, my better half was not impressed, it was late at night. The cable seem damaged, so I have purchased replacement and finger crossed replacing it should work. Found out a neighbour wires motor for a living so he might be able to have a look. Going to bother you with a few of questions-
> ...



Hi. Thanks for your message, I'm glad you're making good progress on your drill.

Regarding the rewiring, I replaced the old cable with modern 1.5mm 3-core, but my knowledge of how to do so was just a case of taking plenty of photos prior to removing the previous wiring, then being careful to put it all back together in the same manner. I've attached a few photos I took during the process which might be of some assistance to you (to see if yours is wired the same). The first two are from the motor itself once you remove the bottom access plate;

Edit: I see your switch is different from mine! Mine has 4 positions - two of them on, two of them off. I have no idea why, as yours appears to just have two options. So the photos below likely don't bear much relevance. 

This first image is what you're presented with after removing the access plate. The first wires to remove are the 3-core from the cable which enters the side of the motor through the rubber grommet you can just see in the bottom right of the photo (the other end of this cable goes into the switch);






This second image is what you see when you've removed the switch/motor cable, and you're left with the connection from the windings; I can't tell you the orientation of each wire (i.e. which black wire is which), because I just marked one of each with paint pen prior to disassembly and replaced as appropriate. Note that all of these wires must be disconnected prior to taking apart the case.






The next photos are from the switch.

The first photo is how the cable from the motor (from the first photo above) attaches to the switch;






This next photo is how the wall power cable attaches to the other side of the switch;






Not the best of photos but short of taking it apart that's the best I can suggest. You've probably got a short/ground fault somewhere? I know very little so your neighbour might be the best bet.

As for the bearings, I replaced all of them on the drill and motor. I didn't use Meddings for any parts, I just used one of the many websites selling bearings and other engineering parts. When I removed the bearings I made note of their markings and googled their replacements. I was in two minds about whether to use shielded/sealed bearings, but in the end I used a bit of a mixture of both depending on availability! I used sealed bearings in the motor as it was such an buttocks to get apart I didn't want to do it again.

I'm afraid that I can't remember which bearing went where, but I'm fairly sure that the entire thing was covered by the following orders;

- Two LJ7/8ZZ Imperial Metal Shielded Deep Groove Ball Bearing 7/8x2x9/16 inch (I think these were the 2 bearings just underneath the pulley in the head)

- Two SKF 62032RSH Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x40x12mm (I'm fairly sure these were the motor bearings)

- Two LJ5/8ZZ Imperial Metal Shielded Deep Groove Ball Bearing 5/8x1-9/16x7/16 inch (I think these were the spindle bearings)

I ordered everything from simplybearings.co.uk

As far as I can tell those are a direct replacement for those used in the drill - at least they all fit for me.

I hope this is useful!


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## SledDriver (15 Dec 2021)

Westwood said:


> Thats superb work and great inspiration for others , thank you for sharing
> Now you've got a well made and fully restored British pillar drill.
> Only wish I was better at and had the confidence to tackle the many steps you describe and show.
> I have a smaller basic NuTool CH10 and a Burgess small bandsaw waiting to be restored



There's really nothing to it - I've never done something like this before, but just approach it like a lego set. As long as you document everything when you take it apart, once you've cleaned everything up you just reverse the steps.

As for things like bearing removal, there's plenty of videos on youtube of how to do these things and they're all straight forward.

As a general rule I think that unless you've spent lots on a project then you can't really make things worse, and if you do then it hasn't cost you much. I wouldn't attempt a complicated geared drill or something like that, I have no lathe or milling capabilities.


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## stuffys (16 Dec 2021)

Evening SledDriver
Thanks for updating all that extra info, especially the bearing details, your karma points are through the roof. 
I had taken the motor apart to clean/change bearings, but stopped myself and rebuilt and then replaced the cable. (It is funny seeing your pictures of the wiring as they are identical to mine, minus the hands.) Thought to myself, see if it is the cable before investing any more time in further restoration? Glad I did, because the motor did the same thing again, started then tripped. The neighbour is a star and has taken it off my hands and is going to look at it and let me know. Landed on my feet meeting him because he is actually the neighbour of the neighbour I know really well, I knew him to say hello and that was it, but his job is motor rewinding and he is really happy to help. Amazing the amount of people who get really interested in photos and giving help/advice when you restore something lovely like this. I have attached a few photos of my current work, mostly clean up, paint removal and a bit of rust tackling. Hopefully tomorrow will get angle grinder out tomorrow to gently remove more of the rust. 
Will keep you posted.
You should post a photo of the complete drill if you have one. 
Thanks again.
Michael.
ps like my use of an underbed storage box for cleaning in


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## Fergie 307 (16 Dec 2021)

Nice job. Only observation is be careful buying bearings online, they are some of the most widely counterfieted things on earth. Simply bearings are a good supplier, but I would be careful of apparently super cheap stuff on e bay etc.
If you are going to make a habit of doing this sort of stuff then well worth getting to know your local bearing supplier. They are a mine of information, and often cheaper too. And for imperial nuts and bolts I have used D Middleton Stainless for years, not cheap but top quality and very good service.


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## stuffys (16 Dec 2021)

Busy morning with angle grinder-


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## SledDriver (16 Dec 2021)

stuffys said:


> Busy morning with angle grinder-



Looks good, be careful not to polish the column too much or the raising table slips easily!


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## stuffys (16 Dec 2021)

LOL, saw you mentioned that. Was just using a nylon/silicon pad on the variable speed grinder. waiting on some buffing pads for angle grinder, but think i will just hand sand the column with some high number wet and dry grit.
If time was reset and you started your restoration again would you do anything different? What advice would you give yourself?


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## stuffys (17 Mar 2022)

Morning SledDriver
Thought I would take a photo of where I am in my restoration. Motor got a rewire and is purring beautifully. Items in the bottom right of the picture are my last few things to do. Cold blue 2 items, a clear top coat and nickel plate the handles. Better Half has been patient but wants the kitchen table back soon. So assemble time is soon. I asked you in my last post what advice you would give yourself- for me, its a wee heads up on how long it takes spray paint to cure for multiple coats, especially with a cold garage and lovely West Coast of Scotland weather  Been really enjoyable and interesting working on this, tried things never done before, spray painting, electro plating, cold blueing...


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## Phil Pascoe (17 Mar 2022)

Is the intended use in a fairground by any chance?


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## stuffys (17 Mar 2022)

LOL, Liverpool fan for my sins. So that is why the red and yellow


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## Devmeister (18 Mar 2022)

stuffys said:


> LOL, Liverpool fan for my sins. So that is why the red and yellow


LOL You guys do like your soccer…. Umm football. It could be worse… there is restored Wadkin PK saw floating about with a hot pink paint job!


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## Phil Pascoe (18 Mar 2022)

Not all of us guys - I loathe football.


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## thebruiser (15 Apr 2022)

stuffys said:


> LOL, Liverpool fan for my sins. So that is why the red and yellow



Liverpool who (BWFC). Stop laughing please I’m embarrassed enough


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