# Newbie made own saw



## jackal (10 Jan 2011)

Hi all new here and keen to get scrolling so had a cheap french sourced fretsaw and found it was just little poor so I set about building my own with stuff laying around my yard. I used the switch and motor from the cheap build worker saw. 

So far I have a saw that works but it does vibrate a bit at higher speeds. The design is a parallel arm motion with basically two bearing mounted arms I know Ill attach a pic.

I do have adjustment of the blade and it has spring tension also a bit like a hobbies gem. The problem I have also is that I like to work at low speeds but the motor torque when turned down isn't brilliant so I will source another motor.

The machine is a bit rough around the edges but does work does any one have any ideas for improvement such as blade clamp designs ect

Hope you found my saw interesting it only took me a day to knock up

Jackal


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## Hudson Carpentry (10 Jan 2011)

Looks interesting, have you made any other machinery?


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## jackal (10 Jan 2011)

Making a wind turbine and a log saw but it will be a while before they get finished. I will have a pyrography machine soon
Thanks for the interest
Jackal


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## Mcluma (11 Jan 2011)

Looks really good


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## Gill (11 Jan 2011)

Doug Woodward had a nice little business making saws which look very similar to yours until he passed away a couple of years ago. They were super. Perhaps if you acquired one of his Diamonds (there's one on eBay right now) you might get an idea of how he approached their manufacture. His philosophy was that the saws should be manufactured from 'off-the-shelf' components so they could be maintained and serviced after his death.


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## monkeybiter (11 Jan 2011)

I would think that if you reduce the speed with gears or pulleys, rather than slowing the motor it's self, your torque will improve. Also adding weight to the base and table should help a lot with vibration. Any possible weight reduction on the oscillating arms and the tensioning bar would help. The arms might stand some holes drilling [most effective further from the pivots] and the tensioner looks like it could be shortened.


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## jackal (12 Jan 2011)

monkeybiter":3t37qiqi said:


> I would think that if you reduce the speed with gears or pulleys, rather than slowing the motor it's self, your torque will improve. Also adding weight to the base and table should help a lot with vibration. Any possible weight reduction on the oscillating arms and the tensioning bar would help. The arms might stand some holes drilling [most effective further from the pivots] and the tensioner looks like it could be shortened.


Makes sense although I just added some weight to the tensioner end to help balance the saw arms which really helped a lot I will be drilling lots of holes in the arms.. I am making some blade clamps today from old 10mm allen keys. Made a clamp unit so far and it grips the blade like ......

Will post some pics of my progress

Jackal


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## jonrms (12 Jan 2011)

I am after seeing if I can make up a lazer engraver.. with the help of a friend who specialises in that kinda thing.. so really I guess he is doing all the hard work.. I am kinda helping


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## Pvt_Ryan (12 Jan 2011)

Jonrms,

http://hackedgadgets.com/2007/07/03/diy ... er-cutter/
Will make the cutter. Then you could use lego/mechanixs parts for the CAD interface and movement. Look for "DIY 3d fabricator lego mechanix". That will show you how to make a body to move you enggraver with.


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## jonrms (12 Jan 2011)

Thank you VERY much PVT_Ryan. 

I appreciate that link.


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## jonrms (12 Jan 2011)

on second thoughts... I will leave it to my mate... that looks a bit iffy.. and some nerd "self professed" stated some concerns which I can actually relate to... ie the voltage issue.. and no regulation.


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## jackal (12 Jan 2011)

Made a new top clamp from a allen key, bolt, 10mm socket and a nut and bolt. Pics attached. the clamp bolt will have a lever instead of the allen bolt. The main clamp is made from a 10mm allen key with a slot cut for the blade and and tapped to take a tightening bolt. The allen key fits inside a 10mm socket to prevent twisting and welded to a short piece of pipe I cut from my welding hammer. Seems to work very well and once I make new bottom clamp Ill make them both so they can take pin blades too. Much easier now to change blades and more positive. what do you think?

Jackal


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