# Understairs cupboard advice - PROJECT STARTED



## Woodmonkey (16 Feb 2015)

My next project will be an understairs cupboard. The design will look something like this,






I thought I would build a stud wall then clad with t&g, doors simply cut from 18mm MDF with grooves routed to match the cladding. Blum style concealed hinges. I've never done anything like this before, does this sound about right? Any advice greatfully received...


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## blackrodd (16 Feb 2015)

You can get 8'x4' sheets of mr mdf grooved either longtitudinal for ceilings, or crossway for wall panelling.
Routering you're self is labourious and ought to be outside, unless you are geared up for small particle producing work.
This is 9mm thick and ready primed, if you made a plant on frame facing to simulate a lightly framed door, this sandwhich would end up at 18mm thick, just right for the hinges mentioned
As the board is very rigid for 9mm, the timber framing could be smaller but still very substantial. 
Regards Rodders


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## RobinBHM (16 Feb 2015)

I generally find it easiest to construct a carcase in 18mm sheet material, then clad as required. Ive tried constructing in studwork but seems more difficult to me.

For ease of fitting the carcase can be made slightly smaller than the space and trim details can be pinned on at the end, scribed if necessary. If the design is set out with a drawing first, the trimming can be a part of the design, rather than an after thought.


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## Woodmonkey (17 Feb 2015)

Thanks for the thoughts
Rodders I did consider the pre routed sheets but they came in at over 60 quid a sheet, and for the size of this job just seemed a bit unnecessary. I can do the routing in the workshop so as not to fill the house with dust.
Robin, the right side of the cupboard to the right of the doors will be shelves so maybe a carcass could be the way to go for that side, and then just attach the door frame to the side of it


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## MrYorke (28 Feb 2015)

I would also suggest making a carcass out of the MR instead of partitioning then clad the outside. This gives a much nicer finish inside and also easier to install shelving or drawers if you wanted to. 

If you're going down the routing route, please be very careful with the MR dust as it's not good for your health. Get masked up and ideally do it outside if you don't have suitable filtered extraction. 

Good luck and let us know if yo have any further questions


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## Woodmonkey (28 Feb 2015)

Made a start on this project this week. It's been a bit of a headache so far, I'm not experienced working with MDF and haven't particularly enjoyed it. I did use the pre-grooved stuff in the end which does look nice. Almost done, would've finished it yesterday except that the door that I glued up the day before came out like a banana so will have to make another one. I glued a sheet of the 9mm grooved stuff to a normal sheet of 9mm, clamped up in a bag press, not sure why it warped? I didn't have anything to sandwich it in so it was just clamped on the workshop floor, maybe that was the problem.
Anyway there's none left of the grooved stuff so thought I would just buy some 18mm and go the routing route. Would it be ok to just use solid 18mm for a door this size (1650x600)? Would that be too heavy? Is routing grooves into it likely to cause it to warp?
Here's where I got to do far, before




After


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