# My new workbench WIP



## mpooley (13 Jun 2009)

Hi all 
I have decided to refurbish my bench and hope you will enjoy watching me cock it up lol  

This is my bench at present - notice that i always keep it clear :? 






I have decided these things allready 

1. Keep it the same size 
2. make it flat - not like the present one  
3. add a tail vice 
4. add a vacuum inside the bench for my sander - router - biscuit joiner etc 
5.add at least one good quality full extension drawer for screws 
6.maybe add more tool storage drawers 
7.I would like a tool tray thingy to enable me to keep the top clear but i dont want one in the bench - maybe a pullout tray at one end????? 
8. keep the 4 electric sockets already built in plus use the auto one fitted to vacuum. 

I'm almost decided to use 4mtr beech kitchen worktop cut in two and joined to make a 2mtr x 1200mm top same size as my present one. 

am thinking of an oak edge to the top 150mm at front with dog holes in it - maybe same all round not sure ? 

I have aquired this device being chucked out at a local machine shop  







Im thinking to make this into a wagon vice on the right hand corner 

its got 450mm of travel I can shorten it. do you think i should ? I can't see much reason to have it travel much more than 200mm ? 

any and all suggestions welcome 8) 

Mike


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## xy mosian (13 Jun 2009)

Hi Mike,

Great project, and for yourself.

The 'Wagon Vice' mechanism. Leave it alone, unless you have a pressing need to shorten it. Shortening involves more work, and in my experience would be regretted sooner or later.

At that length it could form the basis of an add hoc drive for a router used for say, fluting chair legs.

xy


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## mpooley (14 Jun 2009)

xy mosian":270fdvbv said:


> At that length it could form the basis of an add hoc drive for a router used for say, fluting chair legs.


interesting -not sure how you mean though  

Ahh! I think i know what you mean now as I had thought about making something like that out of it, But im not sure how you would do it once it was in the bench?

Im very hopefull of getting another one though   

mike


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## Boz62 (14 Jun 2009)

Coincidently I've just been re-reading Chris Schwarz' "Workbenches" book. He does try to downplay wagon vices. To paraphrase - they are nice to have, but don't expect them to solve all your problems! He highlights that a long "throw" does not mean you can make dog hole spacing larger, as in practice, all you do is end up turning for ages to get end to end of the travel. The design in his book has approx 5.5" travel, with 4" dog hole spacing.

Boz


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## mpooley (15 Jun 2009)

Can I ask - what are the pro's and cons of having the face vice right at the left hand end of the bench as opposed to how I have it at the moment - to the left of centre?

I am looking at lots of bench designs at the moment and I have noticed a lot of them have the vice right at the end like this?

thanks 

Mike


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## OPJ (15 Jun 2009)

I'm in favour of having the front vice _in_ from one end... There's also a debate as to whether your vice should be towards the right or left-hand end, regardless of whichever hand you use!  One clear advantage of having a vice on the end is that you'd have a clear run at the 'bench for planing, scraping and sanding large panels.

If you bring the vice inwards a bit though, I reckon it would be easier to hold something and work on it from either side. I'm not sure how comfortable it would be to cut dovetails, for example, to the left of a vice fitted on the end.


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## mpooley (15 Jun 2009)

thanks Olly

I am working on a sketchup plan of it and will probabaly post it for perusal tomorrow :roll:


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## mpooley (16 Jun 2009)

mikepooley":1gyrvpcp said:


> thanks Olly
> 
> I am working on a sketchup plan of it and will probabaly post it for perusal tomorrow :roll:



Have done the plan but dont know how to post it ? anyone know?


mike


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## mpooley (16 Jun 2009)

I think i can only post a pic of the plan not the plan itself  

so here it is. any comments and suggestion would be appreciated 8)


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## Boz62 (16 Jun 2009)

Ooooh, I like that  I like the deadman and the wagon vice. And I like the drawers in the end. 

My only two areas of thought are:
1) Personally I would not put a lip on the front, so I can clamp items flat on the top with a quick-clamp or F-clamp. Legs and deadman I make flush with the front edge of the worktop and front of the back jaw of the vice. All for easier clamping items vertically on the front. If I can get a clamp behind the legs as well all the better. Can you tell - I like to be able to clamp everywhere :shock:
2) I personally wouldn't put a foot board in - I like to be able to get under the bench to sweep out the spiders and any Stuff I've dropped...

I'm envious of your space, to be able to have such a good sized bench, that you can get all around.

Boz


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## mpooley (16 Jun 2009)

Boz62":4u7mn79k said:


> Ooooh, I like that  I like the deadman and the wagon vice. And I like the drawers in the end.
> 
> My only two areas of thought are:
> 1) Personally I would not put a lip on the front, so I can clamp items flat on the top with a quick-clamp or F-clamp. Legs and deadman I make flush with the front edge of the worktop and front of the back jaw of the vice. All for easier clamping items vertically on the front. If I can get a clamp behind the legs as well all the better. Can you tell - I like to be able to clamp everywhere :shock:
> ...



thanks Boz - Im putting the front board on to allow me to bury the vice behind it and as Im using my present base I need to bring forward the face to accomodate the deadman - i cant see how to do it otherwise?

the face will be flush with the vice and the deadman.

the bottom is already solid so i cant alter that exept for removing the board under the deadman rail which will allow my toes to get under - so i might do that  

the Base was made years ago and is as solid as a rock and i kept it down to the floor as i hate an open bench from the respect of dust and shavings getting under there.

I agree about the clamping but om hoping that the two sides that do overhang will be enough and that the deadman will be good enough for the front ?

Mike


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## Boz62 (16 Jun 2009)

Hi,

OK, I can see where you are coming from. That all makes sense. 

Yes, the only other option for the vice is to only have a rear jaw for the vice. This to the full depth of your existing front board. But then have a extended lipping for the remaining front edge, so it's thin enough to clamp to. 

Yes, the deadman will help a lot - particularly as you have the vice between the legs and can get it behind the vice which your current arrangement. I suppose it depends how you attach the deadman. Usually they seem to be like a simple sliding cupboard door. This is fine if they are primarily for vertical support. But if they need to be a front/back clamping surface, as you are doing here, they need to be a lot better located. 

Hmmm, the above two para's really contradict each other . As usual, it's a matter of where to compromise, to suit how you will be using it. Hang on, presumably the back edge can be overlapping for the full length, so you can have the best of both worlds, depending which side of the bench you use 

Boz


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## OPJ (16 Jun 2009)

It's looking very good, Mike.  I agree with boz's thoughts on removing the footboard/plinth rail. Think of the comfort a plinth adds to a kitchen unit when you're in there washing your hands at the end of the day... It really will be that much nicer for you if you can get your toes underneath! :wink:

If you don't like the thought of all those shavings gathering underneath, perhaps you could store your least-used power tools and cases under there, if you have any that are slim enough?

I think that the sliding board jack/dead man is all you're going to need; no need to worry about using the legs. How much clearance is there behind? What are you thinking of fitting in these dog holes? I only worry that there may no be enough length between the back of the board jack and the carcase hiding the drawers...

I assume you're fitting drawers at both ends?


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## mpooley (16 Jun 2009)

Yes Boz I can use the back edge easily enough  

olly - unfortunately I cant get my feet under as the bottom is a solid beam to the floor,

I have always had an overhang at the front so its never been a problem,

I have done another design where i left the over hang but then i worried it would not be sturdy enough so i added some leftover doug fir beams to beef it up and support the wagon vice properly 

I thought this might be too much so i canned it but maybe i should re-think ?

this is it - it didnt have the sliding deadman but that could be fitted





Im not sure what i am going to use on the deadman just pegs for support i expect - you are right there wont be much room behind the holes in the present design,

thanks 

Mike


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## Boz62 (16 Jun 2009)

I agree with Olly. As long as the deadman has good front/back location and there is enough room behind it to squeeze in the head of a clamp, then legs are less relevant. You'll just need to watch your shins on the body of the clamp sticking out :shock:. As you can clamp vertically on the back edge, the front edge is non-critical as well. 

So I would focus on a solidly located sliding deadman, and a sacrificial front board/vice back jaw. That, with the back edge for clamping and the wagon vice, should give you enough flexibility to let you handle most things likely to come up. 

And the spiders have a nice undisturbed space underneath :wink:

Good luck

Boz


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## mpooley (16 Jun 2009)

Boz62":16h5r5w0 said:


> I agree with Olly. As long as the deadman has good front/back location and there is enough room behind it to squeeze in the head of a clamp, then legs are less relevant. You'll just need to watch your shins on the body of the clamp sticking out :shock:. As you can clamp vertically on the back edge, the front edge is non-critical as well.
> 
> So I would focus on a solidly located sliding deadman, and a sacrificial front board/vice back jaw. That, with the back edge for clamping and the wagon vice, should give you enough flexibility to let you handle most things likely to come up.
> 
> ...



so are you saying that you think my first design is the best ?

when you say"As long as the deadman has good front/back location"
im not exactly sure what you mean - if i make it too tight it will be awkward.
as i understand it the bottom runs on an upturned v shape and the top locates in a slot.

Mike


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## Boz62 (16 Jun 2009)

Yes, your first design, now I understand it  

I am worried about that style of deadman for this application, with the V slot at the bottom. It's OK with a plain dog in it, supporting the weight of a workpiece. But if you try to clamp anything to it, it will tend to pull towards you (there is bound to be slight unevenness over the length of the track so any gaps will allow it to) and rise up on the V. At the least it will give varying height as you set it, at worst it will pull off the track. I think you'd be better to replace the V at the bottom with a groove or a well screwed-in batten so it is working against a flat face. 

Boz


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## mpooley (16 Jun 2009)

Ok yes i see that - i can easy modify that thanks

I have never used one before so these practical points are helpfull

Mike


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## OPJ (16 Jun 2009)

I think you should stick with the board jack/sliding dead man idea rather than trying to get something similar with the legs. I also do think you will need somewhere to tuck your toes under when you're working at the 'bench - even if it means bring that front face forwards a few inches...?


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## Boz62 (17 Jun 2009)

More for completeness than specifically for this application, I've finally remembered where I've seen a variation on this beefing up thing. Not on a deadman but on a sliding leg vice by Bill Liebold discussed by Chris Schwarz on his blog a while back. Here a lot more force will be applied than in your deadman, but the upper slot is beefed up with a steel angle. Interestingly the V grove arrangement at the bottom is kept, which seems counter-intuitive to me. Bill makes a comment about the V at the bottom of the page. 

I don't think your top slot needs this much work, but I still think a hardwood batten making a slot at the bottom would be simpler and easier to adjust. If it is a bit rattly you can always fit a brush strip behind the slots 

Boz


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## mpooley (17 Jun 2009)

OPJ":1px4oi2a said:


> I think you should stick with the board jack/sliding dead man idea rather than trying to get something similar with the legs. I also do think you will need somewhere to tuck your toes under when you're working at the 'bench - even if it means bring that front face forwards a few inches...?



if i do bring the top forward how would I make the deadman flush with the face - id have to face the legs wouldn't I ? = so I could go with my second drawing but add the deadman is that more or less what you mean?

thanks for your input 

Mike


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## mpooley (17 Jun 2009)

Boz62":pwlcrj9m said:


> More for completeness than specifically for this application, I've finally remembered where I've seen a variation on this beefing up thing. Not on a deadman but on a sliding leg vice by Bill Liebold discussed by Chris Schwarz on his blog a while back. Here a lot more force will be applied than in your deadman, but the upper slot is beefed up with a steel angle. Interestingly the V grove arrangement at the bottom is kept, which seems counter-intuitive to me. Bill makes a comment about the V at the bottom of the page.
> 
> I don't think your top slot needs this much work, but I still think a hardwood batten making a slot at the bottom would be simpler and easier to adjust. If it is a bit rattly you can always fit a brush strip behind the slots
> 
> Boz



Thats a lovely looking setup isnt it  

I wonder if i put in one or two leg vices mmmhh :shock:


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## OPJ (17 Jun 2009)

mikepooley":ibp5ijr2 said:


> if i do bring the top forward how would I make the deadman flush with the face - id have to face the legs wouldn't I ? = so I could go with my second drawing but add the deadman is that more or less what you mean?



While this does sound rather crude, I was thinking of simply screwing another rail on to the face of the lower one, to bring it forward with the top? (Sticking with your first design).


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## mpooley (18 Jun 2009)

having thought about it I have tried again- I think this one may be best as its a mixture of the two previous designs,

It keeps the deadman - it gives plenty of support to the front of the bench where the wagon vice is and it allows my feet to get under the bench.

what do you think?







oh and forget the holes in the legs I wont need them.

Mike


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## Boz62 (18 Jun 2009)

Hi Mike,

It's getting really hard to find criticisms now. In fact I'm down to nit-picking - I think you need a groove in the top rail for the deadman - the above only shows a rebate 

The other comment is a naive question - do you really need the middle leg? The top is well supported on the main "old" middle bit, with its' own middle leg. So it's only the overhang that you need the support for. You've got a thick deep board along the front edge between the end legs which will give it strength. I'm just wondering if that middle leg will get in the way far more than the benefits it gives. Without it you'll have deeper access behind the deadman for long dogs and clamps, for the full width of the front. I suspect with the leg there you'll be forever cursing hitting it, especially if you want to nudge the deadman along and need to pull out dogs to do it  I think the overhang will cope without the middle leg, as long as the front board is nice and thick and is well attached [fingers crossed].

Boz


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## mpooley (18 Jun 2009)

Boz62":25ktyswd said:


> Hi Mike,
> 
> It's getting really hard to find criticisms now. In fact I'm down to nit-picking - I think you need a groove in the top rail for the deadman - the above only shows a rebate
> 
> ...



Thanks Boz  

Yes it will have a slot I just didnt put it in the drawing.

the middle leg to be honest is there because I have seven 1mtr long 9mm x 8mm kiln dried doug fir left over from another job - if i had a couple of 2mtr lengths I could leave it out :? 

I know what you mean tho - and I'll have another sort through my scrap pile to see what I have - I know I've got a huge 3mtr length of 125 x125 mm but i was doing my usual and trying to use up my leftovers 

I have some other old doug fir i got when i tore a building down so i'll rethink that one lol

I do tend to just grab whats to hand and rush into this type of job for the workshop just using up what I have (tight i suppose) but I am usually a little dissapointed because I also want it to look good 
so this time I want to get it right ( but i still dont want to spend too much lol)

thanks again 

Mike :roll:


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## Boz62 (18 Jun 2009)

That gave me a much needed laugh after a boring morning rubbing down and painting a garage door. Yes, I know what you mean. Real engineering is making the most of the materials available. Can be a real shock if you actually end up needing to _buy_ new timber :shock: 

Good luck
Boz


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## mpooley (18 Jun 2009)

BUY NEW TIMBER eeek :shock: 

No you are definitely right I have found a nice ( well not too pretty) piece of Doug fir for the top and with two legs it will be more than enough.

with that and the rail at the top and the rail at the bottom of the deadman will be more than enough to tie it together. (both will be oak)

I was definitely over engineering that.

thanks

I might actually have a plan now 

Mike


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## OPJ (18 Jun 2009)

Well, Mike, I think this is the one! Can't see a lot wrong with it while it appears to offer you everything you are looking for in a workbench. Go for it! 8)


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## mpooley (21 Jun 2009)

Well I had a few hours at it yesterday and of course my first cock up happened on the second cut :? 

I had to use up the sheet of 18mm mdf laying on the bench to get it out of the way without having to cart it back to my sheet store so I thought I'd start with the easiest bit - The Back.

so I measured it again ("measure twice cut once") cut it to height and then thought must remember to add 36 mm to it to take account of the sides wrapping round.

wife called me over for coffee and when i got back I (you think I am going to say "forgot about the adjustment arent you?) 
No I remembered 8) then I went ahead and subtracted 36mm from the the length eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeek! :shock: 

so its 72mm short  

Luckily I am used to this sort of thing :roll: 

so I have "improved" my design by adding nice rounded oak corners to the bench at the back which incedentally will hide my error LOL

OH dear I wonder why I do this sometimes :wink:

I then proceeded to prepare cut and mortice and tennon the two verticals and crosspiece that will support the front of the bench.

after making a reasonable job of this I then realised that I would have to cut right through the middle of the rail to fit my big old record vice :shock: 

Back to the drawing board!

I spent some time making accurate measurements of the vice and making a proper model of it in sketchup - and came to the conclusion that it will have to go right at the left hand end now so i can fit it under the overhang there.
The worktop is not long enough so I am going to add "Breaboard" ends in oak as another "improvement" :roll: 

this is all par for the course for me so I am not surprised by this at all 8) 

LOL


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## OPJ (21 Jun 2009)

Mike, you know the rules... Without the photos, we have no reason to believe anything you say!! :roll:


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## mpooley (23 Jun 2009)

OPJ":3kthtd2l said:


> Mike, you know the rules... Without the photos, we have no reason to believe anything you say!! :roll:



OK you asked for it

This is the parts for the new front frame




Dry assembly




stripped down old bench plus cut top of corner post to allow wagon vice to sit there




Let in more support rails for top and added carcase sides for drawers 




Glued up and fixed in place then added extra top rail to make front of bench ultra chunky and support the vice at the far end





The wagon vice has a piece of oak fixed to the back and this is let into the top to take the pressure - Havnt fixed the front of it yet not sure if i should leave a bit of wiggle room and wedge it later.

Notice old chipboard flooring getting used up in there  
and the new worktop has arrived and been cut in two  

got to cut out the slot in the top for the wagon vice soon - not looking forward to that based on my past performance of completely useless measuring  

How would you fix the top on - I want to keep it simple and dont fancy the usual buttons I am also thinking of not gluing the two tops together (just dry biscuit) as it will be so heavy 

mike


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## planetWayne (23 Jun 2009)

can I ask a basic question ,
Whats a 'deadman' in relation to this!?!?

(unless you build caskets for a living :shock: )

Wayne.


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## DaveL (23 Jun 2009)

A dead man is the vertical board (with holes in) shown in the front of the bench, look back at the pictures of the different designs. Its used to support the end of long timber to stop it sagging as only the end is clamped in the vice.


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## planetWayne (23 Jun 2009)

ah - with you now 

Thanks for that.

Wayne.


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## Boz62 (25 Jun 2009)

Hi Mike,

Did the worktop purchase /delivery go OK? I think you did use chippyshop.co.uk in the end? 

Sorry to digress slightly, but do you think I'll get away with laminating 2 bits for a really chunky worktop?

Ta 
Boz


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## mpooley (25 Jun 2009)

Boz62":16aaocln said:


> Hi Mike,
> 
> Did the worktop purchase /delivery go OK? I think you did use chippyshop.co.uk in the end?
> 
> ...



No I used Worktop express from Ebay they were very good and I saved £2.50 with delivery charges :shock: 

and yes I think you could easily laminate two ! I did think of it myself but as my bench is quite wide I would have needed 8 mtrs - :shock: 

also as any heavy chiselling etc is done on the front of the bench I think 40mm is perfectly acceptable for the rest. Mine is now approx 225mm deep at the front but if your bench is narrower than mine and you can afford it :shock: get 4 mtrs and double it up - it will be luvverly


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## Boz62 (25 Jun 2009)

Thanks for that Mike.

You've got plenty of support under your front edge, so a single layer should be well adequate. I only have a small workshop so mine will be 1500mm x 600mm (ish), hence a mere 3m chunk of worktop will do nicely . 

Glad to see you are progressing a lot faster than me . Thanks for the thoughts and ideas you have given me.

Boz


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## mpooley (25 Jun 2009)

Boz62":3jnnn2qm said:


> Thanks for that Mike.
> 
> You've got plenty of support under your front edge, so a single layer should be well adequate. I only have a small workshop so mine will be 1500mm x 600mm (ish), hence a mere 3m chunk of worktop will do nicely .
> 
> ...



Thanks 

here is the preparation for the vice 





this is as far as i have got at the moment - cut out slot for wagon vice fixed vice in place and temporarily fitted front face 





not sure if i did right fitting the face over the vice like this as the oak is very thin there?





where are your pics Boz?


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## Boz62 (25 Jun 2009)

mikepooley":3c3exdme said:


> not sure if i did right fitting the face over the vice like this as the oak is very thin there?


Right, we're now into realms of "wot I'm intending to do" rather than "wot I _have_ done" . Personally I think the vice should be dropped a tad so that the steel is 10mm or so below worktop surface level, with the wood jaw also recessed over the moving jaw as well. This makes it less prone to plane blades etc hitting steel jaws. And yes, the oak is a tad thin over the jaw  I suppose the only option is to replace it with a thicker piece, now or later? At least that is simpler than moving the vice further back under the worktop since you've already drilled it's support holes.


mikepooley":3c3exdme said:


> where are your pics Boz?


Mmmmmmmmm  
I was afraid someone would say that :shock: 

Boz


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## mpooley (25 Jun 2009)

I think your right about the vice but i dont know if i can be bothered  

I have never hit it before  :roll: :wink: 

Mike


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## DaveL (25 Jun 2009)

mikepooley":24zvatbl said:


> not sure if i did right fitting the face over the vice like this as the oak is very thin there?


Now that is not how I would have done it. My bench has a solid top, I routed a slot for the back jaw of the face vice to slide up into. I left the top of the jaws below the surface of the bench, if you look here you can see the build thread. 

Just noticed the date on that thread I cannot believe I have had the bench in the shop for 4 years, must of been enjoying myself.


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## mpooley (25 Jun 2009)

DaveL":i3jvxeln said:


> mikepooley":i3jvxeln said:
> 
> 
> > not sure if i did right fitting the face over the vice like this as the oak is very thin there?
> ...



AH Well!  I did sorta mean to do it like that but  

I was thinking of putting another board over the present one to double its thickness and to create the slot for the top of the sliding deadman.

don't know whether its worth it tho :? 

oak isnt cheap :shock:


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## Boz62 (26 Jun 2009)

I like Dave's way of doing it. Assuming one has a router big enough for a deeeeep slot like that . 

However building it up like you Mike is more my sort of level. Adding the extra layer on the front sounds a good idea - I did this when testing the deadman thing on my old bench. It worked surprisingly well, and also meant it was easy to change/line/modify the deadman slot as I tried things. 

Go on, hang the expense, you know you want to :wink:  

Boz


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## mpooley (26 Jun 2009)

Ok :? 

I have been mulling this over and I think left to my own devices, lazyness and tightness would have won  

I must remember to put all my projects on here; i might end up up doing them properly out of shame :shock: LOL

I happen to have a very large chunk of 25mm oak still left over and as that was my original intention I will use it 
(am I alone in wanting to keep all nice bits of timber for some imaginary job in the future?  ) 

thanks :? 

No honestly 
thanks


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## Boz62 (26 Jun 2009)

I think I'm going to learn from you Mike - not put any projects up till after I've finished them 
And yes - I have a small store of decent wood that never gets used as there is always something better to use it for - one day...

Well done
Boz


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## mpooley (26 Jun 2009)

another question - 

how thick should the deadman be?

what does the panel think ?

thanks for your input 


Mike


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## Boz62 (26 Jun 2009)

I used 18mm ply for my test one and it was "adequate" with Axy dogs, but would be better thicker. Chris Schwarz uses 1-1/4", with a 5/8" thick tongue 1-1/2" long at the top, in the "Workbenches" book. I suspect anything over 25mm would do?

Boz (who gives his age away by mixing his units)


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## mpooley (29 Jun 2009)

Ok I Have made a little progress  

I have accepted and acted upon all advice given (just so I can blame you if it goes wrong :wink: )

I sunk the vice down and covered the top plus I added the new face to thicken it all up and added the rebate for the deadman and an overly thick vice face :?

I then dry biscuit jointed the two tops 






and fitted a sort of breadboard end out of Douglas fir and drilled the holes in the top (all of them at different angles just for fun  






Mike


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## OPJ (29 Jun 2009)

There's nothing wrong with a chunky vice jaw - that only gives it more strength for cramping with bench dogs!


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## Boz62 (30 Jun 2009)

Oh wow! Like it Mike. That looks really good 

Is the dry biscuiting a permanent solution, just for alignment? (sorry, the only biscuits I've ever used are sweet, crunchy and very addictive). How is the worktop fixed - coach bolts from below?

I'll be interested in how useful you find the wagon vice in practice. I like the look of yours so I'm trying to build a space into my design so that one can be retrofitted if needs be. (I'm pricing up timber at the moment ).

Boz


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## mpooley (30 Jun 2009)

Thanks  

I dry biscuited the top for two reasons :

firstly to allow it to be dissasembled if needed - its massivly heavy  

secondly I havnt made a good job of jointing the meeting edges as I did my back in moving the back one, to and fro from to the vice so i will at some future point :roll: when i have some help. make a proper job of it.

I havn't really overdone the fixings as I want it to be able to move, so I used screws through the bench top supports with oversize holes and not many of them either :shock: I dont think it will be sliding about anytime soon though - :roll: 

Mike


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## Boz62 (30 Jun 2009)

Thanks Mike. Sorry to hear about the back problem.

OK, I understand. Yes, I think you have gravity on your side helping to keep the top stationary  

Boz


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## OPJ (30 Jun 2009)

It is surprising how heavy these tops are one the vices are attached, isn't it! :shock: I haven't bothered to fix my top to the frame yet as I've found there's little chance of it moving anywhere on its own. I can plane, sand, scrape longer lengths and it won't budge. This also means I can 'overhang' the front edge (which was designed to be flush) when I want to clamp something on the edge. 8)

By the way, if anyone's after some inspirations for workbench designs, I came across this site last night. :wink:


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## mpooley (3 Jul 2009)

Hi

I have added the "deadman" and oiled and waxed the top now

also painted the vice a nice british racing green to match my planes  





BTW the date is wrong on the camera


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## Fergus (3 Jul 2009)

Looks great 8)


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## OPJ (3 Jul 2009)

Wow! :shock: While I agree with oiling the top for general protection, I think adding the wax on top may be too much... I'm finding that even the finish from my third coat of Danish Oil is a little too slick when I want to clamp something on the face of the 'bench top. Working against the dogs doesn't seem to be a problem. Router matting slides about a bit as well. I'm now thinking about roughing the surface up a bit with my sander... :-k


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## mpooley (3 Jul 2009)

well yes i can see your point ! I added the wax to help get glue off - but it might be too much 

I'll try it for a while and see how it works.

mike


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## Boz62 (4 Jul 2009)

Excellent Mike, love the look of that. I do like the deadman . I also keep looking at your wagon vice and thinking...

Boz


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## mpooley (4 Jul 2009)

Boz62":1omo87ys said:


> Excellent Mike, love the look of that. I do like the deadman . I also keep looking at your wagon vice and thinking...
> 
> Boz



Thanks it doesnt look bad does it  considering its a refurb of an old bench

Well I have done some experimenting with the wagon vice and it seems to work perfectly.

I have never had any sort of tail vice to compare it with but it seems great to me  

Not tried the deadman yet but it slides beautifully :shock:
Mike


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## OPJ (4 Jul 2009)

mikepooley":3brjaor4 said:


> also painted the vice a nice british racing green to match my planes



If you're trying to say that you have a collection of _Clifton_ planes then, yes, I'm very jealous...! :mrgreen: :wink:


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## mpooley (5 Jul 2009)

OPJ":2hn6thwo said:


> mikepooley":2hn6thwo said:
> 
> 
> > also painted the vice a nice british racing green to match my planes
> ...



well to be honest I didnt have any till three weeks ago  

I have two now and hope to get a shoulder plane soon  

Mike


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## mpooley (27 Jul 2009)

I am slowing down but its getting there  

all the electrics are in place, one double socket is standard but the other one auto turns on the Vac (you can see the vac pipe at the front - this pulls out)

drawers are all in and one has been subdivided to take all my screws . soon will do the others so they dont get full of junk


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## Boz62 (27 Jul 2009)

Oh wow Mike, that's lovely. Most impressed 

Boz


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## kingcod (27 Jul 2009)

That really is fabulous. How many man hours do you reckon it took?


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## mpooley (28 Jul 2009)

kingcod":26loa6ex said:


> That really is fabulous. How many man hours do you reckon it took?



Thankyou both  
to be honest thats a very hard question to answer - all I can say is it didnt seem like all that long :? 

Mike


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## devonwoody (28 Jul 2009)

Looks good, BTW, what are the workshop dimensions? It reminds me of my schooldays and the woodwork shop.


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## mpooley (28 Jul 2009)

devonwoody":1fj69vxn said:


> Looks good, BTW, what are the workshop dimensions? It reminds me of my schooldays and the woodwork shop.



thanks  

workshop is 15mtrs x 5 mtrs :shock: 

mike


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