# Turning Time in 2009



## CHJ (8 Jan 2009)

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__________*A dusty day in the shed.*___________click on images for larger view_

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____________Spalted Beech(171mm)_________Spalted Beech (158mm)

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____________Spalted Beech(161mm)_________Spalted Beech(164mm)


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## Jenx (8 Jan 2009)

Really Nice, Chas ... they all look faultless.
8)  

Made as a 'set' to remain together ?


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## johnny.t. (8 Jan 2009)

Very nice indeed not a bad days work there  . I especially like the third bowl, the way you've got the pattern of the spalting radiating out from a point around the sides of the bowl is very effecive.

JT


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## CHJ (8 Jan 2009)

Jenx":1uj1ai8j said:


> Made as a 'set' to remain together ?


Not exactly *Jenx*, the start of a long line of similar on order.



johnny.t.":1uj1ai8j said:


> .... I especially like the third bowl, the way you've got the pattern of the spalting radiating out from a point around the sides of the bowl


Something that I've been aiming at for two reasons *JT,* 
1. to get that effect if possible. 
2. to maximize the log wood.

So far have got away with most rough green blanks, just a couple out of 20 or so that are showing splits from the core wood.


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## stevebuk (8 Jan 2009)

Spankers chas, i love spalted beech and you have done it proud, thanks for sharing.


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## Paul.J (8 Jan 2009)

Glad to see you back in the spin of things Chas  
Lovely looking pieces.The Beech is beautiful.
Are those from the same batch that you brought to the bash :?:


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## CHJ (8 Jan 2009)

Paul.J":1r5imhtt said:


> ...Are those from the same batch that you brought to the bash :?:



Yes *Paul,* excepting they are from some branch lengths that I did not have time to 'blank up' and were just left outside.
I noted that the spalting was getting too much of a hold and hurriedly rough turned them in November.


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## Bodrighy (8 Jan 2009)

Nice tio see some of your work ahain Chas. Usual impeccable quality. 

Pete


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## PowerTool (8 Jan 2009)

All very nice,and great to see you back in production  

Andrew


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## CHJ (8 Jan 2009)

PowerTool":2gcvfpvb said:


> ...... great to see you back in production ...



It never actually stopped *Andrew*  some was not for public consumption and just a few bits that were, were much of a muchness and just found their way into the Gallery, a fair bit of metal turning work interupted the wood flow for a while in December.


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## CHJ (10 Jan 2009)

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__________*A change in plans results in another day in the shed.*___________click on images for larger view_

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____________Spalted Beech(149mm)_________Spalted Beech (154mm)

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____________Spalted Beech(150mm)_________Spalted Beech(146mm)

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____________Spalted Beech(144mm)_________Spalted Beech(150mm)


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## boysie39 (10 Jan 2009)

Hiya Chas. are you proving a point or something, they are the bees knees of spalting and turning that in my short time I have seen.
Jeez you must check the spalting process every hour to get it at such a perfect time, it seems to me that if you left that timber for another 10 mins. it's beauty would not be the same. the real artist is showing. REgards Boysie.


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## CHJ (10 Jan 2009)

Pure serendipity in this instance Eugene, three 1mtr lengths of branch material that I did not have time or energy to convert at the time of collection, just got dumped at the rear of my greenhouse on a large mound of lawn moss, noted one day that there was a rainbow selection of differing fungi that on investigation indicated that it looked just on borderline salvageable, so followed a couple of days bandsawing and frantic rough turning to halt its progress.


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## Paul.J (10 Jan 2009)

Very very nice Chas  
I like the big brown patch on the last piece,but all the spalting is beautiful.
Can't wait to see the bigger pieces


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## CHJ (11 Jan 2009)

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__________*Just a few more.*___________click on images for larger view_

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____________Spalted Beech(135mm)_________Spalted Beech (148mm)

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____________Spalted Beech(158mm)_________Spalted Beech(168mm)


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## Paul.J (11 Jan 2009)

All nice again Chas.Theres no stopping you :shock: 
Are they for a any particular use or just stock you are going through :?:


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## CHJ (11 Jan 2009)

Paul.J":1ca96v3c said:


> ........
> Are they for a any particular use or just stock you are going through :?:


All part of an ongoing commission Paul, just taking the opportunity to get a few weeks ahead, and make some more drying room.


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## PowerTool (11 Jan 2009)

More nice pieces,Chas - although all quite similar,the variety of shapes and the excellent figuring make them all individual  

Andrew


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## CHJ (12 Jan 2009)

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__________*Last of the batch.*___________click on images for larger view_

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____________Spalted Beech(160mm)_________Spalted Beech (170mm)


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## duncanh (13 Jan 2009)

Chas - I've noticed that a lot of these bowls still have the pith in. Was the wood dry when turned so you're not worried about movement and cracking, or was it wet and there's still a possibility of movement and cracking?

Duncan


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## CHJ (13 Jan 2009)

duncanh":y1wdm9re said:


> Chas - I've noticed that a lot of these bowls still have the pith in. Was the wood dry when turned so you're not worried about movement and cracking, or was it wet and there's still a possibility of movement and cracking?
> 
> Duncan



They were all rough turned 'green' in November 2008, dried using my normal regiem of wrapping the outer and leaving on top of cupboards in my conservatory.

They were all below 8% on the 8th Jan. when finishing started, four had short star splits requiring CA fixing during final turning, two had short splits (max 1 mm wide) needing filling with dust and CA.


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## boysie39 (13 Jan 2009)

Chas, when you were turning those Bowls were they mounted in a chuck or did you work them from a faceplate and then form your chucking point. If this sounds stupid sorry . Or perhaps a woodscrew.

REgards Boysie.


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## CHJ (13 Jan 2009)

*Eugene*, all rough blanks were mounted on an 8mm screw chuck (homemade but similar to Axminsters version).

Outside formed and a 70mm chucking socket formed in base.

Blank reversed on socket and hollowed out.

Put aside to dry.

To turn and finish remounted on socket, (well spalted wood does not distort a great deal whilst drying in my experience)

Reverse mount in Longworth Chuck with tailstock support to remove socket and finish base.

___


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## CHJ (15 Jan 2009)

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__________* A Morning at Play.*______________click on images for larger view_

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____________Spalted Beech (90mm)______Spalted Beech & Laburnum (157mm)


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## DaveL (15 Jan 2009)

Chas,

All very nice,  but you are rubbing the fact that I still have to go to work, leaving the spinney things in the shop at home. :twisted: :roll: :wink:


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## CHJ (15 Jan 2009)

Still plenty of time Dave, it took me 11 yrs. of retirement before I found the spinny bug.


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## CHJ (20 Jan 2009)

__________
__________* More offcuts out of the way.*______________click on images for larger view_

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____________Spalted Beech (90mm)______Spalted Beech & Cedar of Lebanon (90mm)


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## PowerTool (20 Jan 2009)

Again,very nice pieces,and _fantastic_ figuring  
Somewhat darker than all the spalted beech I've had,but quite beautiful nevertheless.
Was the cedar of Lebanon just in the offcuts bin,or have you worked your way through the pile of beech ?

Andrew


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## CHJ (20 Jan 2009)

PowerTool":ha9z9h6f said:


> Again,very nice pieces,and _fantastic_ figuring
> Somewhat darker than all the spalted beech I've had,but quite beautiful nevertheless.
> Was the cedar of Lebanon just in the offcuts bin,or have you worked your way through the pile of beech ?
> 
> Andrew



Hi *Andrew*, yes it looks as though the Beech from the main trunk wood has spalted with much darker colouring, some in fact I think may be spoilt with a dirty grey/black stain, totally different to the pale spalting on the branch wood, and no I have not used up the Beech, if fact I have hardly dented the pile yet.
The Cedar was a small piece that has been under the bench since 2005.


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## CHJ (28 Jan 2009)

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__________*This mornings Pottering.*___________click on images for larger view_

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_______________Spalted Beech_____________(160mm D X 110mm H)


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## Paul.J (28 Jan 2009)

Another nice looking piece of Beech Chas  
When are you going to start on the bigger lumps :?:


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## Jenx (28 Jan 2009)

Very attractive, once again Chas ...
Spalted Beech really has that 'something' about it..
Just showed the missus your tea-lights, and there was much 'coo-ing and aah-ing !'

Great Stuff... as usual  8)


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## CHJ (31 Jan 2009)

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__________* Yesterday evenings playtime.*______________click on images for larger view_

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_______________Spalted Beech ____________________(200mm)


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_______________Spalted Beech ____________________(177mm)


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## johnny.t. (31 Jan 2009)

Very nice once again Chas  I must say you do get a flawless looking finish on your stuff .
What do you use for sanding(tool, grits etc)? 

Cheers JT


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## Doug B (31 Jan 2009)

Chas,
All the pieces on this thread look superb, could i ask what your finishing technique is for these pieces.


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## CHJ (31 Jan 2009)

johnny.t.":39cbq99o said:


> .......
> What do you use for sanding(tool, grits etc)?



Hi *Johnny*, don't believe everything you see in the pictures, especially with the spalted bits, look a little closer and there are usually a few blemishes***.

As with most turners I have managed to reduce the amount of sanding needed as my turning tool use has improved, and in particular with the soft spalted wood develope a shear cutting technique that does not tear the fibres so much.

Never the less as far as using abrasives are concerned I will admit to resorting to starting with 80 grit if I can't get a tool cut to work.

As far as abrasive types used I have four sets and I can't tell you which of the first three I am most likely to start with.

1. Cloth backed Oxide abrasive, J-Flex (good on dry wood but clogs fairly easily on wet) and Rhino Brand (Preferred, I think Hegner may now stock this but can only see velcro backed on their site)
2. Abranet (excellent for feedback on heat generated, it hurts :lol: ) Works very well with wet wood be it from normal moisture or sealers.
3. Grip-A-Disc Rotary Sanding Discs.
4. Nyweb

So dependant on how well the tool work has gone I tend to just reach for whichever seems the most appropriate for the piece, I guess it's just a feeling for what's required based on having turned a few pieces now.
If something isn't working or clogging too much I switch around products, and I'll admit to doing a final shaping or blending.
Finish sanding is always done with the Grip-A Disc system (friction driven, hardly ever drill driven) to remove any radial score marks that I have generated by misuse of the hand abrasive.
I rarely go below 320 grit on the wood types I use, I do have 400 and 600 grit to hand for the occasional use on harder close grained woods.
Nyweb is used to denib and blend any sealer build up that comes from poor application **.*

The bulk of my output is just finished with Woodwax22, my main customers preferred finish, melamine lacquer, finishing oil or food safe oil all get the occasional outing dependant on any special usage requirements for the piece.

On the spalted pieces I invariably soak well with diluted sealer as and when it seems appropriate during the final turning and throughout the sanding process to avoid causing cavities in the softer parts.

***I'm hoping to improve in these areas in the near future by developing a buffing routine, invariably there are radial streaks visible in lathe mounted final polishing.



James B":39cbq99o said:


> .........All the pieces on this thread look superb, could i ask what your finishing technique is for these pieces.



*James*, having said all the above if you want to get down to my minimalist approach to the bulk of my output have a look at this Old Thread what you see of finishing (sealer and wax) takes all of 2 minutes. If you get the sealer too thick, I.E. applied undiluted then be careful in the burnishing stage or you will get build up streaks, if this happens blend down with a little thinners on a rag or Nyweb.


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## Paul.J (31 Jan 2009)

Very nice Chas  
Love the colours of the second piece.
Re- the sanding, i use some old sanding disc paper which is 60 grit on some of the stubborn pieces. :shock:


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## CHJ (31 Jan 2009)

Paul.J":2qmnmh9f said:


> ....Re- the sanding, i use some old sanding disc paper which is 60 grit on some of the stubborn pieces. :shock:



*So,* it's just a "*Multi Faceted Turning Gouge*" usually supplied in variable widths :lol: :lol:


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## Paul.J (31 Jan 2009)

*CHJ wrote*


> So, it's just a "Multi Faceted Turning Gouge" usually supplied in variable widths


Indeed it is Chas.A very useful tool to have,sometimes :lol:


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## johnny.t. (1 Feb 2009)

CHJ":1vewspp7 said:


> there are radial streaks visible in lathe mounted final polishing.



Its not just me then :lol: ,although people never notice them,I guess we always see the minor imperfections in what we've made ourselves, I've been looking at turned items in our house that we had before I started turning, which looked great but now under close inspection I find myself thinking 'how did they dare leave it like that and sell it'! For example we have a zebrano clock from a local turner which looked perfect to me at the time, now I see tool marks,tear out and sanding tracks all round the edge!!

Must say surprised to hear you don't go below 320, I always go down to 600 as I can see fine marks left from the 400! Mind you I only hand sand so maybe a rotating head sanding thingy is in order. You say you use a friction driven sanding system, are you talking about something along the lines of the overpriced sorby velcro sanding arbour on a stick? Which could obviously be replicated for very little money.

Cheers JT


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## CHJ (1 Feb 2009)

johnny.t.":3crtx6p6 said:


> CHJ":3crtx6p6 said:
> 
> 
> > .....
> > Must say surprised to hear you don't go below 320, I always go down to 600 as I can see fine marks left from the 400! Mind you I only hand sand so maybe a rotating head sanding thingy is in order. You say you use a friction driven sanding system, are you talking about something along the lines of the overpriced sorby velcro sanding arbour on a stick? Which could obviously be replicated for very little money.



I would not say that I do not go below 320 'full stop' *Johnny*, but not whilst doing standard rotary sanding, anything finer on most woods comes about by denibing, wet sanding etc. with fine (grey)Nyweb and or 400-600 papers whilst cleaning up any problem areas, even this is usually done stationary and using a rotary hand motion, most English woods I find don't give me a scratch problem, the Cherries on the other hand often give me "back chat" and frustration.

On the rotary sander front I use the tool provided by Grip-a-Disc, it's advantage is that it has sealed bearings and an easily lockable angle adjustment, it spins much freer than most systems allowing less pressure and less risk of deep scratches.

This old thread from 2005 may be of interest.

_________ 


___________My simple Sanding Station.


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## johnny.t. (1 Feb 2009)

Thanks Chas, an interesting read.

Your sanding station looks a bit clean!! Wheres the sawdust? :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## boysie39 (1 Feb 2009)

Chas, looking at your work something was at the back of my mind about your bowls. I ijust could not put a finger on what it was.
Then it struck me ,most of your bowls are the traditional shape curved bown to a wide base or foot or whatever they call it. In my short time at the beautyful spinny life most DVDs and gallerys I have seen all have the bowl curving down to a narrow foot where as yours have what to me is the more attractive cupped hands shape. I hope this does not offend you but this will be my goal from now on. It ia a lovely shape, and is used exstensivley in the Waterford Crystel range Thank you Chas, it took me a while and many visits to figure out Eureka. Roll on to morrow
REgards Boysie


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## CHJ (1 Feb 2009)

Boysie, the general utilitarian shape of most of the bowls is down to the fact that they are made for daily use as opposed to just display where a narrow base can lead to spilling contents if care is not taken placing them down, on the whole the contact diameter is 1/3 the bowl diameter occasionally nearing 1/2.


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## Doug B (1 Feb 2009)

Chas.
The thread links are most enlightening as is your input, Thanks.


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## Jenx (2 Feb 2009)

James B":38oj5pb4 said:


> Chas.
> The thread links are most enlightening as is your input, Thanks.



=D> =D> 
Hear hear !
Great thread + links to 'past' postings.
First class 8) 8)


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## CHJ (7 Feb 2009)

__________
__________*Returning to an old theme.*______________click on images for larger view_

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_______________Spalted Beech ____________________(232mm)


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## johnny.t. (7 Feb 2009)

That is stunning Chas, what a nice piece of beech and a fine use of it too.
Can't really say much more than that, other than thanks for sharing.

JT


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## Paul.J (7 Feb 2009)

Beautiful looking piece Chas  
I really do like the brown colour of this Beech.
Nice shape and i like the wide rim detail.Keep em coming


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## PowerTool (7 Feb 2009)

Very nice,the undercut rim makes it look particularly beautiful  

Andrew


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## Jenx (7 Feb 2009)

Now, that is a cracker 8) 
The little undercut works for me too ... thats a beaut. 8) 8) 8) 
Very nice Chas... Do you have a favourite timber, can I ask ? ... I always like what you do with the S/B ... have you had a big stockpile, or is S/B a particular favourite of yours.

Every piece you've shown in Spalted Beech is stunning... 
and this one is no exception. Thats very nice indeed  8)


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## CHJ (7 Feb 2009)

Jenx":z74pf9dm said:


> .. Do you have a favourite timber, can I ask ? ...


No specific favourite *Jenx*, but do have a penchant for anything with distinctive figuring or colour variations.



Jenx":z74pf9dm said:


> .... have you had a big stockpile, or is S/B a particular favourite of yours.


My main customer owns extensive Beech woodland so I have the privilege of dropping the odd hint that if output is to be maintained then a rummage in the 'non timber' woodpiles is in order. Working the spalted is rather a bizarre love hate thing, great pleasure if it can be mastered but it certainly stretches the composure curve at times when it is this far gone.


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## Hans (7 Feb 2009)

Bowl like this, with an undercut rim I like.
Nice piece of wood too.

Hans


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## TEP (7 Feb 2009)

Excellent bowl *Chas*. Nice wood, nice form/design, and nice finish.


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## CHJ (8 Feb 2009)

__________
__________*Getting very close to Pete's rustic.*______________click on images for larger view_

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_______________Spalted Beech ____________________(151mm)


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## Bodrighy (8 Feb 2009)

Don't get too close Chas or you know who might reject them. :lol: 
Usual top quality, diiferent shape this time tho'.


Pete


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## CHJ (8 Feb 2009)

Bodrighy":2b1vh1ho said:


> Don't get too close Chas or you know who might reject them. :lol:
> Usual top quality, diiferent shape this time tho'.
> Pete



Funnily enough Pete, you know who wants more 'Rustic' ones, "got more character when they have warts and all" :roll: 
As you might guess shape was down to finding enough wood between the holes.


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## Paul.J (8 Feb 2009)

Very nice Chas  
Some of these rustic looking pieces are just too nice to discard,so it is always worth a go with em,i think.


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## CHJ (9 Feb 2009)

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__________*A break from the Beech.*______________click on images for larger view_

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____________Oak & Laburnum (75mm)______________Oak (270mm)


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## Struan (9 Feb 2009)

All of those pices are absolutely gorgeous. If you don't mind my asking, how did you dry them and what finish did you use? I'm trying to learn as much as possible to prevent to many future cracking problems.

Thanks
Struan

'Place witty comment here'


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## CHJ (9 Feb 2009)

Struan":2bavpebg said:


> ......If you don't mind my asking, how did you dry them and what finish did you use? ....



Struan, if I am turning green wood I treat it like *This* and rough turn it to speed drying.

Timber in general is always sealed on the ends with wax or old paint as soon as possible after cutting. 

If cut into rough blanks then thes are either end sealed or periphery sealed immediately.
If not cutting into blanks, sections are stacked outside in the shade (ends sealed) and left in as long a length as possible to reduce end splitting waste.

If cut into rough blanks for drying then they are sealed and stacked under loose covers to try and equalise moisture gradient in the stack.

The most significant action with any log to be on the safe side is to split it through the pith to reduce random radial splitting whilst drying.

This is typical of what I am using at the moment.

_click on images for larger view_


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## Struan (9 Feb 2009)

thankyouuuuu.
So much to learn! I'm getting all my logs of a friend at the moment, so i'll have to seal them myself.

Struan

'Place witty comment here'


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## CHJ (12 Feb 2009)

__________
__________*Now you see it (Recovered).*______________click on images for larger view_

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_______________Spalted Beech ____________________(230mm)


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## TEP (12 Feb 2009)

Tis that the bit that attacked you *Chas*? If it is I hope somebody is grateful for the save. Nice work mate.


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## CHJ (12 Feb 2009)

TEP":22b7jkyn said:


> Tis that the bit that attacked you *Chas*? ...



Yes that's the animal *Tam,* a little rustic in spots, but we came to an understanding in the end.


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## Jenx (12 Feb 2009)

_"Came to an understanding"_       

Its a lovely piece Chas ... I'm sure you have forgiven it for the error of its original ways now :wink: 

Beautifully done. Its superb. 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)


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## CHJ (16 Feb 2009)

__________
__________*I think it's called a Vase.*______________click on image for larger view_

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_______________Elm 215mm high


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## PowerTool (16 Feb 2009)

Another quite beautiful piece,Chas  

Lovely shape;needs nothing else,lets the beauty of the timber speak for itself.

Andrew


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## Bodrighy (16 Feb 2009)

Gorgeous wood there Chas and nice to see you doing something a bit different. You seem to have been on a production line lately with the bowls. :lol: 
Could be a vase....a large pot or maybe a very deep bowl?

Whatever it is I like it 

Pete


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## Paul.J (16 Feb 2009)

Beautiful piece Chas.The timber looks gorgeous.
Great rescue on the bowl/dish too


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## duncanh (16 Feb 2009)

Lovely vase Chas.
Nice and simple design that shows off lovely grain


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## Jenx (16 Feb 2009)

Lovely Shape to tht one, Chas ...
and what a gorgeous piece of elm... thats a real little beauty. 
Nothing in the shape to detract from the features in the wood itself,
and that really works wonderfully well.
Its screaming 'pick me up for real close look'.
8) 8) 8) 8) 8)


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

CHJ

I have just been looking through this thread.

Great work made of beautiful wood. You have a great wood pile and I choose my words carefully :lol: :lol: 

I think our native woods are some of the best in the world and spalted beech is extra special, especially seeing it comes from such a bland wood initially.

Keep up the great work and can't wait to see more.

Take care 

Mark


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## CHJ (17 Feb 2009)

Thank you *Mark,* I'm afraid that my output is not very artistic and rather mundane in form, to a large extent this is due to my main outlet for 'surplus' items which helps with the provision of consumables for my hobby.

It does mean that I can go in the shed and just relax whilst whittling a bit of wood.

As for the 'wood pile', it's about to grow somewhat bigger in the next few days as comments yesterday about shortage of unspalted Beech and Yew to add some variety resulted in the response "Oh I've had three Beech come down this winter & I've had to remove a Yew that was crowding an Oak stand, if they are any use".


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## CHJ (18 Feb 2009)

__________
__________*Another bit of end-grain boring.*______________click on image for larger view_

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_________Cedar of Lebanon (200mm high)


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## Paul.J (18 Feb 2009)

Nice looking piece Chas,and the Cedar looks lovely  
Is it usualy that colour :?


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## CHJ (18 Feb 2009)

Paul.J":2smnygqg said:


> ...Is it usualy that colour :?



All the Cedar of Lebanon that I have or had is from a fallen branch some 450-550mm diameter, it has all been pale in colour, considerably different to the Red Cedar we see in shingles etc.


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## PowerTool (18 Feb 2009)

Again,love the shape,and another beautiful piece of timber.
What's this one going to be used as/for?

Andrew


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## CHJ (18 Feb 2009)

PowerTool":31jh7ekz said:


> ....
> What's this one going to be used as/for?..



Someone in the household mentioned something about a dried arrangement to compliment the slight cedar scent getting past the finish *Andrew*.


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## CHJ (23 Feb 2009)

__________
__________*"Simples"*______________click on images for larger view_

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_______________Spalted Beech ____________________(178mm H)


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## Paul.J (23 Feb 2009)

Another nice looking Vase Chas :?:


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## PowerTool (23 Feb 2009)

You might class them as "simples",but they don't _need_ anything,other than what they are - lovely shapes,beautiful timber  

Andrew


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## Jenx (23 Feb 2009)

Agree with that 100%, -- Chas they'll look wonderful with a couple of nice stems in, very attractive.
Sometimes 'uncluttered' works very very well. -- as in this case 8)  
Really nice .

8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)


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## TEP (23 Feb 2009)

Hope you left a little weight in the bottom of those *Chas*, just in case 'er indoors displays something in them. Nice form, as said it's nice to see some standard shapes for a change.


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## wizer (23 Feb 2009)

Some lovely vases of late Chas. I'm sure you have covered it before, but can you tell me what tooling you have used on these vase forms? and how you went about the process?


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## CHJ (23 Feb 2009)

TEP":2oie7f5b said:


> Hope you left a little weight in the bottom of those ....



Yes *Tam*, balance point just short of 1/3 from base.


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## CHJ (23 Feb 2009)

wizer":cf67a6jm said:


> .... but can you tell me what tooling you have used on these vase forms? and how you went about the process?


Hope to be doing something similar tomorrow *Tom*, will try and get some pics if that helps.
Don't have any specialist hollowing tools yet so have to improvise somewhat.


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## wizer (23 Feb 2009)

Which is even more interesting as I don't want to buy too much yet.

Cheers.


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## johnny.t. (24 Feb 2009)

Pleasant little vases Chas, to me they look like they would be quite effective with a stem and base to make a posh looking goblet/flute  

Nice bit of beeceh again.

JT


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## CHJ (24 Feb 2009)

______*Tom's Piece*______Click on image for larger view.

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________Spalted Beech __(208mm H)


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## CHJ (25 Feb 2009)

______*Another Tall Order*______Click on image for larger view.

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________Spalted Beech __(235mm H)


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## CHJ (26 Feb 2009)

______*Been Boring again*______Click on image for larger view.

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___________Walnut __(235mm H)


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## Bodrighy (26 Feb 2009)

Have you taken a liking to these Chas or have you got a market? :lol: 

As always they are immaculate, what more can I say. Keep 'em coming

Pete


----------



## Jenx (26 Feb 2009)

My personal favourite timber.. Walnut. 8)  
Thats just superb Chas, as they all are .....
They 'work' extremely well - gorgeous work 8) 8) 8)


----------



## CHJ (26 Feb 2009)

Bodrighy":1bog92nc said:


> Have you taken a liking to these Chas or have you got a market? :lol: ....



You know me *Pete*, get stuck in a rut, don't think they will run as long as the bowls though :lol: 

The Beech items are part of standing order.
The Elm is a home keeper awaiting the purchase/making of a more sophisticated hollowing tool for a companion bigger version.
The Walnut is in destination limbo at the moment, from a branch felled in 2003 and been drying in rough cylinder form since 2004, it kept peeping out of the box looking for inspiration.


----------



## TEP (26 Feb 2009)

Like the Walnut one a lot better than the Beech one *Chas*. The taper on the Walnut is just right.

I await the BIG one!


----------



## CHJ (26 Feb 2009)

TEP":29eh13fn said:


> Like the Walnut one a lot better than the Beech one *Chas*. The taper on the Walnut is just right...



Yes would have liked more of a taper on the Beech items myself *Tam*, just had to work within the only blanks I had.


----------



## boysie39 (26 Feb 2009)

Thank you CHAS. Love the walnut most . REgards Boysie.


----------



## CHJ (1 Mar 2009)

______
______*Water tolerant version with a Glass insert*________Click on images for larger view.

___

___

___



______________Ash_______________________196 mm H


----------



## Doug B (1 Mar 2009)

They look very nice *Chas*
The Ash looks very dark, i like that.
How thin is the rim? It looks very delicate, really well turned.

Doug.


----------



## CHJ (1 Mar 2009)

Doug B":3fkhnuid said:


> ...How thin is the rim?


About 2mm Doug, but thickens out reasonably quickly as the bore follows the tapered glass used.

Have quite a lot of this deeply stained Ash but it has an aroma that defies all but the hardy to live with whilst wet, slowly drying it out and exposing it to fresh air to sweeten it.


----------



## wizer (1 Mar 2009)

I love these simple vases Chas and you've solved the only thing putting me off making them. i.e how to put water in them. I'll be on the hunt for cheap glasses


----------



## DaveL (1 Mar 2009)

Chas,

That is a really good idea, I might just be tempted to try try it....sometime. :roll: 
Interesting figure on the ash, was it looking good to start with or did it appear as you got down to size? :-k


----------



## Bodrighy (1 Mar 2009)

wizer":1w8x45r1 said:


> I love these simple vases Chas and you've solved the only thing putting me off making them. i.e how to put water in them. I'll be on the hunt for cheap glasses



Google test tubes. I use them for bud vases and they are really cheap. Also look out in charity shops, you often get odd shaped glasses that can be used. If you get them first you can make the shape of the vase to suit.

Pete


----------



## wizer (1 Mar 2009)

Bodrighy":215vbbjs said:


> wizer":215vbbjs said:
> 
> 
> > I love these simple vases Chas and you've solved the only thing putting me off making them. i.e how to put water in them. I'll be on the hunt for cheap glasses
> ...



Cheers Pete. With a recent wedding pillaging me of all fun funds, I'm learning to be frugal. FreeCycle is my new hobby


----------



## Bodrighy (1 Mar 2009)

Keep your eyes open for wood on there. I've got a fair bit. Think old furniture....mahogany, oak etc. Down here you get cars, boats, and all sorts so it's worth checking regularly.

Pete


----------



## CHJ (1 Mar 2009)

wizer":mubgpy89 said:


> I love these simple vases Chas and you've solved the only thing putting me off making them. i.e how to put water in them. I'll be on the hunt for cheap glasses



IKEA £4.59 for six.



DaveL":mubgpy89 said:


> ...Interesting figure on the ash, was it looking good to start with or did it appear as you got down to size?


The whole tree core was stained about 2/3 of trunk thickness *Dave*, colour distribution is down to blank cutting, although drying splits play a big part in the latter.


----------



## wizer (1 Mar 2009)

Bodrighy":g72xchn9 said:


> Keep your eyes open for wood on there. I've got a fair bit. Think old furniture....mahogany, oak etc. Down here you get cars, boats, and all sorts so it's worth checking regularly.
> 
> Pete



See my next thread and my blog for more on this


----------



## Paul.J (1 Mar 2009)

All very nice Chas,especially now more practicle with the glass inserts


----------



## CHJ (1 Mar 2009)

Paul.J":130idbbt said:


> All very nice Chas,especially now more practicle with the glass inserts


At least the dry ones with dried flowers installed don't get you into trouble for forgetting the watering.


----------



## CHJ (2 Mar 2009)

______*Been Beeching again.*______Click on image for larger view.

______


___________Beech__(202mm)


----------



## Paul.J (2 Mar 2009)

*CHJ wrote*


> Been Beeching again


Back on *track *then Chas :lol: 
Very nice looking bowl


----------



## PowerTool (2 Mar 2009)

Another lovely shape,showing the timber off to best effect  
Is it a keeper,or has it already got a new home ?

Andrew


----------



## CHJ (2 Mar 2009)

Destined for customer Andrew. think there are two more out of this piece of timber but will have to wait and see if the spalting has gone too far.


----------



## loz (3 Mar 2009)

I just can't get enough of that Spalted Beech ;-)

Lovely.

Loz


----------



## Jenx (3 Mar 2009)

She's a beauty, Chas ...
mostly that really nice rich honey, too.. rather than the paler bits that tend to go punky... super bowl, looks to have just the 'right' amount of spalt.
A Cracker one again !


----------



## CHJ (3 Mar 2009)

Jenx":9w3yde6m said:


> ...mostly that really nice rich honey, too.. rather than the paler bits that tend to go punky.....


Main problem I'm having with the current selection is the black mold, tends to migrate across and stain the other wood on some pieces, have had to bin several attempts as looking just dirty. Soaking in cellulose sealer near finish cut to seal it in and being very careful with sanding seems to work best.


----------



## CHJ (5 Mar 2009)

______
______*Captured a bit of todays sunshine I think.*________Click on images for larger view.

___

___

___



_________Beech (199mm)________________Beech (195mm)________________Ash (125mm)


----------



## Jenx (5 Mar 2009)

Superb pieces Chas .. ( From L-R ) are pics 1&2 the same bowl ..?
the link on the middle one appears not to be working at the minute !

I like the left one particularly.. fantastic undercut on the rim.. 
very attractive shape.

Whats the finish one these ones ?

Not a bad bit of production for the day, at all ! 8) 8) 8) 8)


----------



## CHJ (5 Mar 2009)

Jenx":21j9ef65 said:


> Whats the finish one these ones ?



Cellulose sealer and Woodwax22 *Jenx* 


(link fixed, thanks for heads up. diff. bowls)


----------



## johnny.t. (5 Mar 2009)

Nice pieces there Chas, the bowl in the first pic is particulary appealing.

JT


----------



## Paul.J (5 Mar 2009)

Very nice pieces again Chas  
Just for a change i like the Ash piece.
Is it Spalted :?:


----------



## CHJ (6 Mar 2009)

______
______*A touch of "Jacobs Coat of Many Colours"*________Click on images for larger view.

___

___

___



___________Laburnum ___________________242mm High


----------



## johnny.t. (6 Mar 2009)

That is an exceptional piece of timber there Chas and you've made it into a nice little vase  My mum had one more or less the exact same shape on the dresser when I was a boy :lol: 

JT


----------



## Bodrighy (6 Mar 2009)

Lovely piece of wood Chas. Works well in the vase shape. Simple but very efffective.

Pete


----------



## PowerTool (6 Mar 2009)

Same as Pete said;love the shape,love the timber  

Andrew


----------



## boysie39 (6 Mar 2009)

Laburnum A terrible beauty. Chas. REgards Boysie.


----------



## Paul.J (6 Mar 2009)

Stunning piece of Lab Chas  
Are you getting into these hollow forms now :?:


----------



## CHJ (6 Mar 2009)

Paul.J":15070ssu said:


> ...Are you getting into these hollow forms now :?:



Not really *Paul*, they are just deep sided bowls. :lol:


----------



## Jenx (6 Mar 2009)

What a gorgeous piece of wood that is Chas ...
And the shape of the vase seems to have shown it off to its best.

Thats a real 'come pick me up' piece... lovely ! 8)


----------



## Bodrighy (7 Mar 2009)

CHJ":3h79e5ay said:


> Paul.J":3h79e5ay said:
> 
> 
> > ...Are you getting into these hollow forms now :?:
> ...



In that case I have to say that the rim is slightly out of proportion to the body Chas.  

Pete


----------



## mikec (9 Mar 2009)

Great form Chas,

Beautiful piece of Laburnum shown off by a simple but classic shape.   

Mike C


----------



## CHJ (19 Mar 2009)

______
______* The Tall and the Short*________Click on images for larger view.

___

___



_________Elm 310mm High___________Cedar of Lebanon 180mm


----------



## TEP (19 Mar 2009)

Nice work *Chas*, do like the Elm vase. I like the bowl, but I think the foot should have had a bit less height. Just doesn't sit right to me, eye of the beholder and all that. :wink:


----------



## Paul.J (19 Mar 2009)

310mm :shock: They're getting deeper Chas.  
What are you using :?: Must be a big snake :lol: 
Very nice Elm piece,and a nice bowl,but i also think the foot could have been not so high :!:


----------



## Bodrighy (19 Mar 2009)

Hallelujah at last there is something I don't like in Chas's work. Only taken 2 years :lol: The bowl just doesn't work for me this time. Sadly I can't fault the finish etc but what the heck. 

Pete


----------



## loz (20 Mar 2009)

The elm vase is beautiful, im going to have to give those a go.

I love the rounded rim on the bowl, which also looks undercut,? I think the pic makes the bowl heavier than it is ??

Loz


----------



## wizer (20 Mar 2009)

I do agree with Pete on the bowl. The general shape does not work for me.

However, I absolutely love these elm vases. I'm going to try one as soon as possible.


----------



## johnny.t. (20 Mar 2009)

As others have said Chas the bowl doesn't look right, for me the huge foot and general shape don't work. It looks really thick walled(or is that an illusion of the concave interior sides?)

The vase on the other hand is very nice, the simple form compliments the beautiful grain of the elm very nicely and over a foot in height :shock: . good work  

JT


----------



## CHJ (20 Mar 2009)

johnny.t.":3kdf318l said:


> As others have said Chas the bowl doesn't look right, for me the huge foot and general shape don't work. It looks really thick walled(or is that an illusion of the concave interior sides?)
> .... JT



*Johnny* the wall thickness is about 4mm except immediately under the rim, I take on board all the comments by folks about the higher foot but it was done to a sketch requirement. In practice it does not look so heavy, 'photo perspective seems to exaggerate it somewhat.


----------



## johnny.t. (20 Mar 2009)

CHJ":3dzw23ac said:


> the wall thickness is about 4mm except immediately under the rim..... .......photo perspective seems to exaggerate it somewhat.



It certainly does Chas!, to my eye in the pic it looks about 3/4 of an inch thick :lol: 

JT


----------



## CHJ (20 Mar 2009)

wizer":3657pvt1 said:


> ....However, I absolutely love these elm vases. I'm going to try one as soon as possible.



*Tom,* something you may want to build yourself before you attempt to go too deep with a tough wood like Elm, and any other wood where the chucking spigot may be suspect to take the side loads.

















Sorry for the lousy pictures but it is very sunny in the shop this morning.


----------



## wizer (20 Mar 2009)

Thanks Chas. The pics are good. Do you think you could take a pic and/or explain how it fits to the bed?

Also how do the wheels turn?


----------



## mikec (20 Mar 2009)

Hi Chas,

Agree with previous comments about the bowl but the elm vase is great.
Finish in both cases to your usual excellent standard.

Thanks for showing the steady design. I note a couple of features such as the clamping washers that make fabrication very simple. What did you use for wheels?

Regards,

Mike C


----------



## Bodrighy (20 Mar 2009)

For wheels use a set from some old inline skates from a boot sale.

Pete


----------



## CHJ (20 Mar 2009)

*Tom,* I think you can see the lathe clamping method, the Ply frame is sandwich between Oak Pads to give width and rigidity.*Tom, Mike,*the Wheels are made up of a small bearing with a piece of kitchen chopping board for tyre and an "O ring" set in a suitable location groove.
*Mike,* the metal arm clamps, the steel is 10mm thick, the ply layer 9mm, the washers have a thin 'Half Washer' under the one edge to limit tipping.
















Sorry for the big pictures don't have much time this morning to sort out thumbnails.


----------



## wizer (20 Mar 2009)

thanks very much Chas. I think I have just worked out what I will be doing in the workshop this Sunday


----------



## mikec (20 Mar 2009)

Thanks Chas

The wheels will be cheaper to make up using bearings rather than skate wheels as I have all the materials. They will also allow steadying smaller diameter work.

Thanks for the details, like Wizer I will also be busy this weekend  

Regards,

Mike C


----------



## wizer (20 Mar 2009)

Do skate wheels have bearings in them then?

I'll probably go that route as i'm lazy


----------



## duncanh (20 Mar 2009)

wizer":1mnf4lsa said:


> Do skate wheels have bearings in them then?
> 
> I'll probably go that route as i'm lazy



If you take the wheels off a skate or board then they will have a pair of bearings .
If you buy the wheels separately then they probably won't.

Boots and boards regularly come up of Freecycle and you often find them in charity shops. I picked up a mini board with 4 wheels for under £5.

Duncan


----------



## wizer (20 Mar 2009)

cheers duncan, will keep an eye out. It looks like the ones on eBay come without bearings


----------



## wizer (20 Mar 2009)

actualy, contradicting myself, would these work?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KART-17MM-WHEEL-B ... 0361108223

I assume you just turn a cylinder on the lathe, drill a hole through the middle the same size at the bearings, then chop them up into 4 equal parts\wheels and glue in the bearing. 

Have I got that right? Or is it more complicated?


----------



## TEP (20 Mar 2009)

*Tom*, to make life easy for yourself just use the used inline skate wheels as suggested. They come with two bearings in each wheel, and the mounting bolts, nuts, spacers, and washers from the skate frame. All you have to do is supply the frame and arms.

If you think the wheels are a bit too big, remove the bearings, make a wooden plug for each side with a large bolt and nut through the middle, Put this in your chuck and gently turn the wheels down to the size you want. Having them the same size isn't critical as they adjust separately. Just leave enough meat to support the bearings.


----------



## CHJ (22 Mar 2009)

Tom , sorry for late reply, other duties this weekend.
The 'Tyres' on my bearings are not glued on, I counter bore a recess from one side only, this traps the tyre on the bearing by the clamping washers.

The important bit is the spacing sleeve in the bearing, this needs to be long enough to give running clearance on trapped components when bolt tightened.


----------



## CHJ (25 Mar 2009)

______
_________*Another test for sharp tools*________Click on image for larger view.

________


__________Cedar of Lebanon 190mm


----------



## mrs. sliver (25 Mar 2009)

Nice one Chas. I do like that shape and finish.
Never turned any ... as far as I know. what is it like to use?


----------



## Bodrighy (25 Mar 2009)

What lovely markings Chas. You seem to have a monopoly on decent wood :lol: Bet the workshop smells nice now

Pete


----------



## Woodmagnet (25 Mar 2009)

Very nice Chas, i love the pattern the grain 
is showing. 8)


----------



## CHJ (25 Mar 2009)

mrs. sliver":1azfhn67 said:


> ... what is it like to use?



Like cutting a very aromatic but firm shortbread biscuit *mrs.S*, with distinct hardness differences across the growth rings, easily marked with stray grits or finger nail, endgrain tears readily if tool not sharp and presented as a slicing/shearing cut.
Will shear scrape to good surface if sharp burred scraper used on a diagonal to grain direction. 

Easy to get tool bounce corrugations from a gouge due to growth ring density change.

The samples I have benefit from Cellulose sealer hardening of the endgrain (like spalted wood) to aid cutting.


----------



## TEP (25 Mar 2009)

Lovely form *Chas*, and that grain swirl is amazing. Someone's going to be lucky when they receive that.


----------



## hog&amp;bodge (25 Mar 2009)

Almost looks like a skin of an onion..Wonderful
finish and shape...There is some for sale on eBay
Item number 120392897772
£17.99 and £9.99 postage is this a bit steep..
Just been looking at your: Wood Hazard Info
It really is an eye opener.. :shock: 
Thanks for the info page...


----------



## CHJ (25 Mar 2009)

Bodrighy":2l8ts5hr said:


> What lovely markings Chas.


________Click on image for larger view.

________


Grain pattern is down to someones pruning a generation or so ago.




Bodrighy":2l8ts5hr said:


> Bet the workshop smells nice nowPete


Certainly opens up the sinuses Pete, washing hands hardly shifts it.


----------



## CHJ (25 Mar 2009)

hog&bodge":1qfbinwf said:


> .....Just been looking at your: Wood Hazard Info
> It really is an eye opener.. :shock:
> Thanks for the info page...



Glad to hear it was of use, wood is such a wonderful subject to get absorbed in and being something that surrounds our everyday life it is easy to miss the fact that it can be a danger if not handled correctly.

Everyone who aspires to using an arc welder is soon aware that not to have adequate eye protection is going to be immediately hurtful and more than likely to destroy their eyesight.

Wood however seems innocuous and can sneak up on you if similar robust self protection is not practiced.


----------



## Paul.J (25 Mar 2009)

Nice looking bowl Chas,with a nice grain pattern to it  
Do you not get an allergic reaction from Cedar as you do with some other timbers. :?:


----------



## CHJ (25 Mar 2009)

Paul.J":2o5l01vh said:


> ....
> Do you not get an allergic reaction from Cedar as you do with some other timbers. :?:


It can be a little obnoxious if given a chance but current measures seem to keep it in its place.


----------



## CHJ (27 Mar 2009)

______
________*Three of a kind*______________Click on image for larger view.

________


_______________Laburnum


----------



## Paul.J (27 Mar 2009)

Nice looking trio Chas  
Did you sort a better quicker way of doing these now Chas :?:


----------



## PowerTool (27 Mar 2009)

Nice work Chas - practical _and_ attractive  

Andrew


----------



## CHJ (28 Mar 2009)

Paul.J":bautwbue said:


> ....
> Did you sort a better quicker way of doing these now Chas :?:


No Paul still using same process, I have a couple of dozen part turned blanks still to use up.

Will definitely be changing method of spill prevention though for any future run to reduce process time, just have not got my head round new mandrel or holding jig yet.


----------



## Lightweeder (28 Mar 2009)

Chas - I love these. Was just about to make a couple but they would have been quite plain. I might try to copy yours, if you don't mind. Is the internal stem a dowel, or did you turn the whole mechanism?


----------



## RATWOOD (28 Mar 2009)

very nice Chas


----------



## CHJ (28 Mar 2009)

All pieces are turned *LW*, soon as the Rugby is over on the box I'll try and copy my crude sketches as a guide and pm them.

See page 16 of bits and pieces below for basic form, although now developed to avoid spilling with trapped piston.

EDIT: *Lightweeder,* check your PM Box.


----------



## wizer (28 Mar 2009)

By sheer coincidence I just came across this on YouTube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wI7LuEOfF0s


----------



## Lightweeder (29 Mar 2009)

CHJ":27k6riej said:


> All pieces are turned *LW*, soon as the Rugby is over on the box I'll try and copy my crude sketches as a guide and pm them.
> 
> See page 16 of bits and pieces below for basic form, although now developed to avoid spilling with trapped piston.
> 
> EDIT: *Lightweeder,* check your PM Box.


 
CHJ - thanks for PM and have replied. 

I'm just finding my way 'round this site and learning how to use it. Your 'Bits and Pieces' is fantastic. Have to go out as we speak, but I'll drool over it when I get back. 

Thanks again.


----------



## CHJ (8 Apr 2009)

______
________*A few more after dinner aids.*______________Click on image for larger view.

________


_________________Beech


----------



## Jenx (8 Apr 2009)

Its Hat Doffing time again !

Superb repitition stuff Chas ... thats to be admired in the highest !
They look absolutely fantastic to me...
A skill to aspire to.. I cannot turn two things the same, supposing my life depended on it !
Brilliant ! 

8) 8) 8) 8) 8)


----------



## TEP (8 Apr 2009)

You sure that isn't one holder superimposed over each other? :twisted: :twisted: :wink: 



Excellent, really nice job there *Chas*, I've made 2 of those since they came on the scene last year. Very impressed, hope you've got a market for them.


----------



## CHJ (8 Apr 2009)

*Jenx,* it's not that difficult if you plan a little process approach.

Main thing is to try and do it so that the repetition does not become boring or a chore.

Because these were from green wood they were actually started Feb.08.
The wood blanks were rough turned and bored prior to putting aside to dry, when dry they were finished bored to size and end details worked to finished length, each process done as a batch so that tool changing was at a minimum. 
Likewise all components are done as batch but checking clearances are satisfactory, forming a set of parts for each piece.
Finally external diameter turned on a mandrel which acts as a size guide and ensures reasonably concentric.
Assembly and final buffing also done as batch so that tool and consumable handling is at a minimum.


----------



## Jenx (9 Apr 2009)

Ah, ! now I recall seeing them earlier ! ( Having followed the link )  
Fantastic to see the project coming to fruition as finished articles.

Appreciate your modesty in saying it wasn't too arduous a task following a set production procedure.. but still I'm of the belief that the set shows what I reckon is quite a considerable achievement, Chas.
They're stunners. 8) 8) 8) 8)


----------



## CHJ (10 Apr 2009)

______
________*A trial of a different finish for me.*______________Click on images for larger view.

________

__

__


_________________Laburnum__________________210 mm H_________________Lemon Oil finish.


----------



## CHJ (10 Apr 2009)

______
________*Back to basics*______________Click on images for larger view.

________

__

__


__________________95mm______________________95mm______________________105mm


----------



## Jenx (10 Apr 2009)

Chas does a Corny ! 

Lovely as ever, Chas ... what's your take on the Lemon Oil ?
George swears by it .. which is recommendation in itself, of course..

Reason I ask, is that I will be in picking up some more finishing oil and a few bits of 'goodies' tomorrow morning, and if there's TWO of you saying its good.. then it really has got to be on the shopping list !  

Love the Tealights ... 'basics' as you call them ! :lol: :lol: 
They look just the ticket ! 
8) 8) 8) 8)


----------



## CHJ (10 Apr 2009)

*Jenx,* early days for me to make any meaningful comments on it, only just getting used to its ability to follow you around for hours no matter how many times you wash your hands etc. :lol: 

It is very low viscosity not much different to kerosene, the Laburnum sapwood soaked it up as though it was blotting paper, amazing to watch.
I can see why George likes it for his green turnings, I can envision it balancing the moisture losses and reducing localised stresses.

This piece is not fully dry and has a not unattractive mat finish, will see how it goes with other pieces regarding buffing, waxing etc. I think it will, like all finishes depend on the wood species and personal preference.

All that have handled it have been positive about the aroma although I would be wary bringing a wet item into a confined space until the white spirit base had evaporated somewhat..

Think it will become a staple finish for me in the future, somewhat slower to apply and finish due to drying time as with most oils but looks like a simple no mar finish that could be popular.


----------



## Jenx (11 Apr 2009)

SOLD ! I'll pick some up tomorrow to try 8) 8) 

Always admire the way George's finishes look on his pics, ...
I've been using a lot of Liberon Finishing Oil, which I quite like.. but it does tend to be a bit 'shiny'... fine for certain pieces I dare say, not so clever for others.. and a nice, more 'matty sheen' will be another alternative.

Quite fancy having a wee bit 'experiment' with different things. 8) 

Just have to try and turn something nice, now .. :lol: :lol:


----------



## CHJ (15 Apr 2009)

______
________*Pill Platters.*______________Click on image for larger view.

________


_____________Ash & Yew 50mm


----------



## PowerTool (15 Apr 2009)

Nifty little pieces,Chas - another great idea for stopping things becoming "offcuts"  

Andrew


----------



## Bodrighy (15 Apr 2009)

I can see it happening Chas....next stop miniatures. :lol: 

Nice as always by the way

Pete


----------



## Jenx (16 Apr 2009)

PILL PLATTERS ! Now THERES a nice idea.. !!

Currently on 4 different ones a day, and never remember to take them at the right times ! that could be the very solution !! 8) 8) 8)


----------



## boysie39 (17 Apr 2009)

Chas. Pill platters,I'm on 14 daily and Clair is on 18 how big is your wood pile :lol: :lol: . One problem with them is keeping out of the reach of Little Fingers, But I suppose could also used as Sweetie treats.Grear Idea REgards Boysie.


----------



## CHJ (19 Apr 2009)

______
________*A few more scraps sorted.*______________Click on image for larger view.

________


_________Laburnum, Cherry, Yew & Ash


----------



## CHJ (20 Apr 2009)

______
________*Bowls and Bits*______________Click on images for larger view.

________

__

__

__



______________Beech (150mm)_______________Beech (137mm)_________________Cherry)_______________________Palm


----------



## Bodrighy (20 Apr 2009)

I( knew it :!: Getting smaller. Graham someone is after you hat here :lol: 

Pete


----------



## TEP (20 Apr 2009)

Some really nice stuff there *Chas*, especially some of the light holders. Great variety of coloured timbers as well.


----------



## CHJ (20 Apr 2009)

Thanks *Tam,* not exactly exotic turning but I need to get rid of a lot of the small offcuts lying around and have orders for odd craft events, gift requests etc. all the way up to next Xmas so am trying to kill two birds with one stone so to speak and get things out of the way.


----------



## wizer (21 Apr 2009)

Love the pendants. Oddly, my missus doesn't like wooden jewellery, so I doubt I'll ever get the chance to have a go.


----------



## Lightweeder (21 Apr 2009)

I like all of these Chas. The tee light holders are all a cut above (mine).

The hoop pendants look narrower at the top. Is that clever turning or the angle of the photo?


----------



## mikec (21 Apr 2009)

Thanks for the great ideas *Chas*, I like your design for the tea lights.

Regards,

Mike C


----------



## CHJ (21 Apr 2009)

Lightweeder":16c5br6p said:


> ....The hoop pendants look narrower at the top. Is that clever turning or the angle of the photo?



Home made Off-Centre Chuck thingy, funny how it's harder to do something deliberately that happens by accident often enough. :lol:


----------



## CHJ (22 Apr 2009)

______
________*Fiddling again.*______________Click on image for larger view.

________


_______________Yew & Elm


----------



## Jenx (22 Apr 2009)

ooohh ! now those are lovely ! 
I liked them when 'Turn it in' Ian did the WIP pics ... and these are a pair of beauties too Chas...
Cant really pick a favourite, one over the other... they're both great.
8) 8)


----------



## Paul.J (22 Apr 2009)

Some great looking pieces Chas  
Love the bowls and the round Tea lighters.
Might be trying some of those meself soon


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## Lightweeder (23 Apr 2009)

Lovely Chas, really lovely  

LW


----------



## wizer (23 Apr 2009)

Lovely Chas. Would love some workshop pics of the process.

I am a pest aren't I? :lol:


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## CHJ (23 Apr 2009)

______
________*More Fem' Food.*_______________Click on images for larger view.

________

___


__________________Yew ___________________Ash--Ash/Yew---Ash


----------



## stevebuk (23 Apr 2009)

you know, i have never been in this thread, by jeez those are really good chas, methinks i will have to selve deeper now.


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## Bodrighy (23 Apr 2009)

You really are branching out Chas. Jewellery, segmented stuff....all of the same impeccable quality as well. I do like those last pendants and with your permission might 1/2 inch some ideas. What are you using to string them? 

Pete


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## CHJ (23 Apr 2009)

Bodrighy":3h6vr2ki said:


> What are you using to string them?
> Pete









Shocked at the markup being applied by craft shops, 35 - 60p / mtr Daughter sent me some down from one of her suppliers. (under a fiver per reel)


----------



## Paul.J (23 Apr 2009)

Love the bangles/bracelets Chas.Very smart


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## richburrow (23 Apr 2009)

They all look very very nice, I especally like the off centre yew ones


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## Bodrighy (23 Apr 2009)

Thanks Chas, I can get mine via a haberdashery stall ina market in Truro that sells it by the yard. Works out a lot cheaper than the craft places as you say. Even the findings are cheaper. and they also sell bits and pieces for doll making which come in handy for decoration as well.

Pete


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## Lightweeder (24 Apr 2009)

My local craft shop get their stuff from www.beadsunlimited.co.uk and then presumably add a mark up. Bits and pieces are really cheap on that site :wink:


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## CHJ (25 Apr 2009)

______
______You come down from the shed with a fist full of output. :lol: 
______You screw a couple up by being too casual with the drilling. #-o 
______Quality control manager rules that several do not cut the mustard as is and need rework. :roll: 
______
______*So--just ended up with a couple of bits for the mix and match bin.*
_______
_______


_______________Laburnum______________Click on image for larger view.


----------



## wizer (25 Apr 2009)

I think those pendant shapes would be excellent in a much larger form as a wall hanging


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## Bodrighy (25 Apr 2009)

I think what makes these a bit special is the way the grain is in them. Knowing you I doubt if it is accidental but I do query having sio many bits and leftovers that just happen to have the grain in the right alignment :lol: I haven't done anuy for a while and seeing these I am thinking maybe I need to get my small jaws back on the chuck.

Pete


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## CHJ (25 Apr 2009)

Yes have actually put brain in gear and tried to use the grain to make them work *Pete*. Either removing pith by centring hole on it or repairing any small shakes with CA and using it as point of focus.

Don't need chuck jaws other than to hold sacrificial wood/mdf Pete, just tack slice to be worked with Hotmelt (sorry) for off centre working.
Will go up shed for pic. when NCSI has finished (can't miss my Abbey Fix)

Grabbed these during a commercial, ready for hole boring, if wood has finish applied (Melamine) glue peels off ok.
You can see MDF damage from peeling previous glue patches off.


----------



## CHJ (26 Apr 2009)

______
________*Last for a couple of days, need to sort some more segment bits out.*_______________Click on images for larger view.

________

___


_________Ash--Ash/Yew---Laburnum_____________Laburnum


----------



## Jenx (26 Apr 2009)

Fantastic Chas, _really love_ the pendants especially .... as does my daughter ! ( I now have to attempt something else ... " Dad, Make those and hurry up about it !!" :wink: :wink: :lol: )

They're great pieces, all. 8) 8) 8) 8)


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## CHJ (26 Apr 2009)

*Jenx*, a few tips, drill a starting hole from tailstock for the off-centre depression, makes it easier to start the curve with bowl gouge.
When you turn it round to do other side use whatever you have of suitable size in the tailstock to align the off centre hole whilst you re-fix it.

Remember the hole will be bigger when you work the second side in towards the centre so don't make the centre hole too big from first side.

Apply finish to all worked areas of disk as you go, certainly before fixing with Hotmelt if you hold it my way, easier to release.


----------



## Jenx (26 Apr 2009)

Brilliant, Chas ... that sounds like it will save a load of heart-ache ! Thanks for that...
Will have a go at these very soon ( keep daughter happy ! :lol: )


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## Lightweeder (26 Apr 2009)

Chas - full of admiration as always. Nice to see a pic of your off-centre jig. Wondered how you had done that. Please   what's hotmelt. Is tht the trade name ?


----------



## Bodrighy (26 Apr 2009)

Lightweeder":rjtijbrx said:


> Please   what's hotmelt. Is tht the trade name ?



Hot glue gun :twisted: :twisted: Works brilliant for everyone but me. :lol: 

Pete


----------



## CHJ (26 Apr 2009)

Lightweeder":18evfsvi said:


> ...... Nice to see a pic of your off-centre jig. ...



Although the jig has it's uses *LW,* I tend not to bother with actually using it for off-setting most pieces now. By the time I've worked out where to position a piece and how it will present when the jig is rotated (they are not visible but the periphery of the inner disc has angular index lines) I find it quicker just to move the piece by hand and re-bond in new position.

I have a couple of glue guns, a cheap one which works, but best is the Bosch PKP 18E for consistent 'pick up and go'


----------



## richburrow (26 Apr 2009)

Those segmented bracelets are really nice   
No lathe time for me yet Chas  
I like the idea of turning jewelrey but have never tried, you have given me some insperation here, thanks
Rich


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## CHJ (26 Apr 2009)

Glad to provide yet another item to the 'round toit' list* Rich*, quite satisfying and simple to do, if somewhat fiddly & time consuming in comparison with the odd bowl.


----------



## CHJ (4 May 2009)

______
________*Chunky she said.*_______________Click on images for larger view.

________

___


_________________Cherry


----------



## DaveL (4 May 2009)

Chas,

They are very nice, I think the tuit list is growing again.


----------



## CHJ (4 May 2009)

Thanks *Dave*, if your 'tuit' gets anywhere near as long as mine you'd better find a bit of time to get some better heating set up in the shop. :lol:


----------



## stevebuk (4 May 2009)

chas, just got to say if anyone needs a mentor your the guy to do it, the bracelets, earrings, stand and everything else are amazing, some of the best stuff i have seen. 
Would you by any chance have any pics of how you go about doing these beautiful turnings, as i just love WIP photos.
thanks for sharing them, definately something to aspire to..


----------



## Paul.J (5 May 2009)

All very nice again Chas  
Chunky looks good.I like the way the inside as been hollowed  
I have just been reminded 3x _-"Wheres ours?"_ :roll:


----------



## PowerTool (5 May 2009)

Very nice pieces (the "chunky" look is just right  ),and the cherry itself looks lovely.

Andrew


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## Jenx (5 May 2009)

'Chunky' works for me too Chas ... I Love them ! 

Another 'success', I think ! :lol: :lol:


----------



## DaveL (5 May 2009)

CHJ":2dcr7mt0 said:


> Thanks *Dave*, if your 'tuit' gets anywhere near as long as mine you'd better find a bit of time to get some better heating set up in the shop. :lol:


No worry on that front, I am refilling the fire wood shed ready for next winter.
I have the post room staff trained to let me know when they need to get rid of a pallet, better for the wood burner than the land fill.


----------



## CHJ (5 May 2009)

______
______*Just another set, *but for *Steve* & others interested a few* WIP Pictures.*
_______
_______


_______________Cherry______________Click on image for larger view.


----------



## Paul.J (5 May 2009)

Great *WIP* Chas  
I have my orders so will be doing some soon :roll:


----------



## stevebuk (5 May 2009)

CHJ":1p2312av said:


> ______
> ______*Just another set, *but for *Steve* & others interested a few* WIP Pictures.*
> _______
> _______
> ...



chas =D> =D> =D> many thanks sir, it will be my pleasure to carefully study these pictures as i would love to replicate these amazing turnings, and now hopefully, i will.
Many thanks chas..


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## CHJ (6 May 2009)

______
_______*Yew made Beads ?* ________________Click on images for larger view.
_______
_______

_______


_________________Yew_____________________________Cherry


----------



## Bodrighy (6 May 2009)

Now we are getting into the miniatures Chas. Thinking of opening a jewellery store? Those buckets of scraps will keep you going for a while at this size. 

Lovely little pieces, beads are impressive. How big / small a drill was used?

Pete


----------



## CHJ (6 May 2009)

Bodrighy":2jmbqtj4 said:


> .... How big / small a drill was used?...


 2.5mm to match the cord *Pete*, still working on different methods of making sure hole is central, need to get these sort of things into the quick turnround mode.

Unfortunately the 'smalls' bin just keeps growing as I find more ways of utilising the bits left over.


----------



## Bodrighy (6 May 2009)

I know the feeling. Are you doing the beads by making a tube then turning them off it? I haven't done beads but have with two light pulls at a time which is the same but on a larger scale. I suppose the problem is tha you can't go very deep with a 2.5mm drill without it snapping. 

Just thinking aloud...Could you shape a basic tube, drill deep enough for a bead, turn off, drill the next one ad nauseum. You could do this sort of thing this size without using a tailstock, just use your jacobs chuck in the headstock.....don't tell me you've thought of this already  :lol: 

Pete


----------



## CHJ (6 May 2009)

Will let you know what I settle on, whatever it is it's got to be the line of least aggro'.


----------



## CHJ (10 May 2009)

______
________*B.o.B.B.O.**_______________Click on images for larger view.

________

___


____________Irish Bog Oak & Cherry_________Base 180mm X 95mm

________

___

___


________
________
____________**B.o.B.B.O.* Bit of Boysie's Bog Oak. Thanks Eugene.


----------



## Bodrighy (10 May 2009)

Wow Chas...what books have you been reading> That is ..dare I say it....#artistic :lol: 

Seriously it's a lovely piece of work and a beautiful combination of woods. How big is it? Looks small in the image but can't really tell

Pete


----------



## wizer (10 May 2009)

My sentiments exactly. The first word that popped into my head was WOW.

Well done Chas this is really nice indeed.


----------



## Jenx (10 May 2009)

Chas, I tend to be a big fan of your pieces _anyway_.. but this is something really special ! Thats a beautiful combination of woods, and the design aspect is superb.

A little bit of Bobham influence ? 

Thats a great bit of work...really very attractive.
You're right 'on the money' with this.. ( not that you're ever far off it :wink: :lol: )... lovely, _lovely _work 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)


----------



## Lightweeder (10 May 2009)

Chas I love these. I've been doing some myself, but they don't look this good  Please tell me, a) what are you using to sand and b), is that a complete insert, or have you just dyed the bum to match the lid :?:


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## Paul.J (10 May 2009)

Excellent looking piece *Chas*


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## Vulthoom (10 May 2009)

Wow!

Brilliant.


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## PowerTool (10 May 2009)

Absolutely beautiful  
Shape,style,colour and _everything_ about it is just perfect!

Andrew


----------



## CHJ (10 May 2009)

Lightweeder":1umcm0yv said:


> ...Please tell me, a) what are you using to sand and b), is that a complete insert, or have you just dyed the bum to match the lid :?:



All separate pieces *LW*, what sanding, it's all straight off the tool :^o  :^o  
Fortunately both woods required very little work, finishing well with the tools.
A touch of Grip a disc to blend curve disjoints left by tooling then Abranet/ Hermes RB406/Rhino brand, can't give a definitive as some pieces/grades just seem to perform better at differing times, got now as I just pick up the bit that seems appropriate.


----------



## Lightweeder (10 May 2009)

That's a new twist on the way I do it - and in some ways might be easier :wink: :wink: Thanks Chas. As ever, I might try to copy what you've done - hope you don't mind


----------



## CHJ (10 May 2009)

Lightweeder":1w9f8fnx said:


> ..... As ever, I might try to copy what you've done - hope you don't mind



Your welcome *LW*, somebody somewhere sparked the idea for me, just needs a bit of thought on the 'chicken-egg' front to decide which bit gets finished first.
Seemed the best approach given my aversion to putting hands anywhere near spinning finger cutters.


----------



## Lightweeder (10 May 2009)

CHJ":1gfzv99h said:


> Lightweeder":1gfzv99h said:
> 
> 
> > ..... As ever, I might try to copy what you've done - hope you don't mind
> ...



Agree on the spinning finger cutters - clearly the sanding's a problem - especially for us novices who can't get that good a finish. If the 'egg' section is part of the whole, the curve underneath can be quite sharp, and I've been doing mine by hand. I've just ordered the grip-a-disc from toolpost, tho' a sander could get a nasty bite in there just the same, so not sure how it works, but we'll see. You have some brilliant ideas Chas :wink: :wink:


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## duncanh (11 May 2009)

LW - I hope you don't mind me saying this, but I don't think this is a suitable project for a beginner (hopefully others agree!). The wings are likely to cause real problems, in terms of turning at high speed to improve cut and the danger of fingers close to the spinning wings.

I'd suggest learning better tool control before attempting a project such as this. 
If you want to try the insert idea you could turn the light wood in Chas's project as a complete circle - you wouldn't be able to see under the bowl but it would be a good learning exercise.
Turning the item all as one but with the light wood as a full circle again would also be a good exercise - getting the transition from the inner bowl to the outer bowl can be tricky.

The problem when starting out is that you may try to run before you can walk, which is likely to cause frustration, possible injury, and perhaps put you off turning.

Duncan


----------



## Bodrighy (11 May 2009)

I must agree with Duncan on this one. I have a number of litle scars on my fingers due to turning natural edges, winged stuff and off balance work before I really knew what I was doing. (Not that I do now :lol: ) An alternative, if you have a bandsaw is to do as Duncan suggests but make the circle bowl shaped with the hole and then cut it into a strip on the saw. Same effect, less painful (as long as you are careful woth the bandsaw)

pete


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## mikec (11 May 2009)

*Chas*, those are gorgeous     

Mike C


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## CHJ (11 May 2009)

Don't worry folks, *LW *is on the PM circuit on the safety front, although she has done similar before. I don't do rotating wings, can't get the thickness and finish consistent without the support.

Thanks for the comments, just trying to do something different with the Bog Oak.
Not easy to use, turns well but has a lot of hidden splits that don't show until you start working it. CA glue does not react well with it and is reluctant to cure. Trying PVA and a little more patience with the next piece.


----------



## stevebuk (11 May 2009)

Fabulous, nuff said...


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## mrs. sliver (12 May 2009)

Chas!! engineered art!! Very nice! It has your perfect finish, well thought out planning AND is artistic!! I love it!!

We will have you over to the dark side yet!! :lol: :lol:


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## paulm (12 May 2009)

Love it Chas =D> 

Certainly taking it to another level, lovely work.

Cheers, Paul


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## Lightweeder (12 May 2009)

duncanh":1u2t7gg7 said:


> LW - I hope you don't mind me saying this, but I don't think this is a suitable project for a beginner (hopefully others agree!). The wings are likely to cause real problems, in terms of turning at high speed to improve cut and the danger of fingers close to the spinning wings.
> 
> I'd suggest learning better tool control before attempting a project such as this.
> If you want to try the insert idea you could turn the light wood in Chas's project as a complete circle - you wouldn't be able to see under the bowl but it would be a good learning exercise.
> ...



Thanks Duncan and Pete, and appreciate your concern. However, I've already finished four. Chas is aware I've already made this the hard way, and his approach is a lot safer :wink: and, I have to say, much better


----------



## CHJ (13 May 2009)

______
________*Keeping Time to a minimum*_______________Click on images for larger view.

________

___

___


_________________Cherry_______________________105mm


----------



## jpt (13 May 2009)

Very nice clock Chas.

One question how do you join the 2 pieces together?

I have tried dowel in the past but it has not stood up to handling very well.

john


----------



## Jenx (13 May 2009)

Very 'delicate' looking piece.. I love it ! 
That housing looks like it may have been 'interesting' :wink: :lol: to get that thin !... its a very very nice clock Chas ... really like that ! 

I tend to be a lad that likes 'chunky / substantial' .. but in this case, I'm loving the delicate look of the thing ... its a cracker ! 

Lovely work ! ( as per the norm ! ) :lol: 8) 8) 8)


----------



## CHJ (13 May 2009)

Not that thin *Jenx*, the insert body is only 80mm, so just the rim inset is a couple of mm.

*jpt,* Epoxy.


----------



## Paul.J (13 May 2009)

That is a really neat looking clock Chas  
Love the Cherry.Lovely colouring.
Is the back an insert,seperate piece of Cherry,and have you hollowed the base :?: :?


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## DaveL (13 May 2009)

Nice one Chas.  

You have got to stop making things I am drawn towards trying, how am I ever going to get the shop sorted out. :roll: :wink:


----------



## loz (13 May 2009)

Thats lovely Chas,

Not much more can i say, your finishes are something i aspire too !

LOz


----------



## PowerTool (13 May 2009)

Very nice,Chas,and lovely colouring  



DaveL":1yh9e7ie said:


> You have got to stop making things I am drawn towards trying, how am I ever going to get the shop sorted out. :roll: :wink:



You're well on the slope now,Dave - so,like the rest of us,just accept that it will _never_ happen... :wink: 

Andrew


----------



## CHJ (13 May 2009)

loz":29ll06xj said:


> your finishes are something i aspire too !


Not much down to me here Loz, this Cherry is very close grained and cuts like butter, finish is just Chestnuts Melamine wiped on with a cloth covered finger tip (stationary), rapid movement quick spread before it has time to build, followed by quick spin to burnish with cotton towel.


----------



## boysie39 (21 May 2009)

Chas, Thank you, Thank you Thank you. I was never in any doubt that you would produce" something special." Just how special I I did not envisage. It will be my alltime best woodturning piece, not just for its perfection but also for its perfect timeing.
When I saw itt this morning I almost threw my crutches away.Its the most wonderful fillip that I could have recieved. God Bless your Hands. I hope where ever you are on you Hols, the sun will shine for you and yours. God Bless REgards Eugene (Boysie)


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## mikec (21 May 2009)

Yet another stunner *Chas*

I'm not usually a fan of clocks, I find them too chunky but that is a beauty.

Regards,

Mike C


----------



## CHJ (10 Jun 2009)

______
________*Getting round to it again.*_______________Click on image for larger view.

________


______Ash, Purple Heart, Yew, Zebrano Mix


----------



## duncanh (10 Jun 2009)

Very nice.
I'm not usually a fan of segmented work but I like these. Particularly the 3rd from left with the alternating colours. Is it yew?

Duncan


----------



## CHJ (10 Jun 2009)

duncanh":30dmcmfn said:


> ....
> I'm not usually a fan of segmented work


Not my favorite either, I appreciate the skill and work involved but prefer items where the wood speaks rather than the workmanship.
These are done on request, segmenting them actually does get over a problem of short grain that can be a strength problem in narrow rings.



duncanh":30dmcmfn said:


> .... 3rd from left with the alternating colours. Is it yew?....


 Yes Duncan it's Yew, the alternating is a natural function of turning the stock during cutting.


----------



## Paul.J (10 Jun 2009)

Those look really neat Chas :shock: 
Lovely choice of coloured timber combinations.
Very nice indeed


----------



## johnny.t. (10 Jun 2009)

Those look very well made Chas  . The two in the middle are really stunning(not that I'd wear one myself :lol: ). 

Great work with a great looking finish as usual  

JT


----------



## mrs. sliver (11 Jun 2009)

They look great Chas! ... And would wear them!


----------



## tulsk (11 Jun 2009)

Hi Chas,
As ever consistently good work. As a request could you take some WIP shots if you make any more of those toothpick holders. You seem to have engineered a good design and I'm sure others would like to know a little more. I for one would certainly like to have a go, but so far haven't found any reference text. Only if you have time of course, Ta- John.


----------



## CHJ (12 Jun 2009)

______
________*All Bangled out, hopefully the last for a while.*_______________Click on image for larger view.

________


___Ash, Purple Heart, Yew, Zebrano, Padauk Mix


----------



## johnny.t. (12 Jun 2009)

Hope these aren't all for one person to wear Chas :lol: :lol: 

Looking good


----------



## PowerTool (12 Jun 2009)

Lovely stuff,Chas - particularly like the contrast of colours with the purpleheart  

Andrew


----------



## CHJ (12 Jun 2009)

*tulsk, * will try and remember to take some pics. next batch, going for a much simplified design with the next lot as those in the past have been rather over engineered and time consuming.

*J.T.* Guess she would be an Arm-oured individual, no they are for various customers and a fund raising event.

*Andrew,* The purple Heart and Padauk contrast is a request even after warnings it can change colour, personally high contrast segments are not my favorite, personal preference is for distinctive figuring of complimentary woods but customers/recipients rule.


----------



## CHJ (14 Jun 2009)

______
________*Just a follower of fashion.*_______________Click on images for larger view.
______
________

__________


____________*Cherry *(bowl 135mm)___________________What no foot?.


----------



## Bodrighy (14 Jun 2009)

Chas, there's bark still on it or is this a work in progress? :lol: 

How long did it take you to pick the glue off?

Pete


----------



## CHJ (14 Jun 2009)

Bodrighy":39pgzbv9 said:


> How long did it take you to pick the glue off?


*Nil Point!!*


no glue was harmed in this exercise. :lol:


----------



## johnny.t. (14 Jun 2009)

Very nice Chas but you forgot to do the back :lol: :lol: 

No glue eh? did the holding on involve screws and sawing the ends(with the screw holes in) off after?

JT


----------



## CHJ (14 Jun 2009)

johnny.t.":kaf1mzrc said:


> No glue eh? did the holding on involve screws and sawing the ends(with the screw holes in) off after?



No, but would have been a lot easier, have already filed " leave legs longer" for next cutting session for that very method..


----------



## mrs. sliver (14 Jun 2009)

Oh the dark side continues to call you Chas!! :lol: 

I love it! but how the pineapple did yo hold it on?? :-k


----------



## Bodrighy (14 Jun 2009)

Playing with a vacuum chuck?
Between centres? Could be done but a lot of fiddling to clean the cebntre of the bowl up afterwards

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (14 Jun 2009)

Very nice Chas.  
The Cherry though i don't think as the same effect as what the Labby does,for me.
Did you hold it on with some form of button jaws :? :?: 
Or did you just take the piccy before you turned it :lol:


----------



## CHJ (14 Jun 2009)

Bodrighy":20ppc06w said:


> Playing with a vacuum chuck?


I wish, but my investigations to date/personal standards preclude one from this years budget I'm afraid.



Bodrighy":20ppc06w said:


> Between centres?


Only tailstock for bowl centre alignment not whilst turning.



Paul.J":20ppc06w said:


> Did you hold it on with some form of button jaws


Close, the Cole jaws were used as a backing for finishing but not in compression mode.


----------



## Paul.J (14 Jun 2009)

How about a pin chuck and the hole plugged after :?:


----------



## CHJ (14 Jun 2009)

Paul.J":o4jmelo5 said:


> How about a pin chuck and the hole plugged after :?:



Nope, no holes in the rear face at all, the only hole was for a screw chuck in the bowlside face.


----------



## CHJ (15 Jun 2009)

______
________*And another one.*_______________Click on images for larger view.
______
________

__________


____________*Cherry *(bowl 135mm)

This one still needs a couple of short feet to level it up.


----------



## stevebuk (15 Jun 2009)

Wow, WOW and even more WOW, absolutely stunning chas, love it. Not a clue how you held it though..


----------



## Paul.J (15 Jun 2009)

Vey nice Chas  :? 
What finish have you put on the bark :?: 

Well i give up as to how you have held them both,but it must be some sort of button jaws with extended buttons to perhaps hold the three straight edges you have :?: :? 
Or have you come up with some new holding device :idea:


----------



## CHJ (15 Jun 2009)

Paul.J":38o7at1x said:


> What finish have you put on the bark :?:


 Cellulose sealer and woodwax22, the latter well brushed out to prevent trapped white deposits.



Paul.J":38o7at1x said:


> Well i give up as to how you have held them both,but it must be some sort of button jaws with extended buttons to perhaps hold the three straight edges you have :?: :?


 Very Close.


----------



## loz (15 Jun 2009)

Just after seeing this on the Family Woodworking ( US ) site - Both are stunning, I couldn't imagine being able to put one down !!!!

Loz


----------



## CHJ (15 Jun 2009)

__________
__________*A brief look at holding a footless turning.*___________click on images for larger view_
_________
_________ 

___ 


____________Initial Mounting & Cut_________Bark sealed just to help keep it intact
_________
_________ 

___ 


____________Turn it round_________________Turn the Bowl & finish. (note the odd dab of hot-melt to the clamps on this heavier one.)
_________
_________ 

___ 


_________Hand finish Border and polish off lathe__Spruce up Bark with Domed Brush and soft wax.


----------



## Paul.J (15 Jun 2009)

That's just how i meant Chas :lol: 
Do i win a prize :lol:


----------



## Tony Spear (16 Jun 2009)

Very good!

Actally, believe it or not, I was beginning to think something along those lines.

In Fred Holder's "Guide to work holding on the Lathe" there's a thing called a Doughnut Chuck, used for finishing the bottom of bowls.
This basically consists of two plexiglass discs, one of which is fixed to the jaws, the other one is actally in the form of an annular ring. The finshed bowl is inserted between the two discs and clamped in place with long machine screws. This seats the outer ring on the curvature of the bowl leaving the spigot (tenon?) exposed so it can be turned off. The problem is, this depends on both sides of the clamped object being regular ( the rim naturally being dead flat and easy to seat on the inner disc) and I've been racking my brains to think how it could be modified so that the irregular side could be accurately seated.

It never even ocurred to me to use individual clamps.

Isn't it extraordinary how so often the cleverest ideas seem so simple once someone shows you how it's done? :roll: :roll:


----------



## mikec (16 Jun 2009)

*Chas *that has taken an already interesting form to a new level.    

Pity that most non-turners wouldn't appreciate the techniques to achieve such a standard of workmanship.

Please keep the posts coming, your show and tell sections are very educational.


Regards,

Mike C


----------



## PowerTool (16 Jun 2009)

Thanks for the pictorial,Chas - I too have been sat scratching my head a little as to how you did it ; great idea  

Andrew


----------



## Jenx (16 Jun 2009)

Chas, thats a real beauty ! Lovely work ! 8) 8)


----------



## CHJ (17 Jun 2009)

______
________*Bit of home cured Elm.*_______________Click on image for larger view.
______
________


______________155 X 125mm


----------



## RATWOOD (17 Jun 2009)

very nice Chas


----------



## CHJ (17 Jun 2009)

Thanks Chris. and all the previous comments guys and gals, hope to have a few more bits of an 'unusual' (for me anyway) nature soon, quite a few bits with sound bark lying around and have had some requests along the lines of "can you do some with knobbly bits" so I guess it will save having to remove quite so much material.


----------



## Paul.J (17 Jun 2009)

Nice chunky looking piece Chas  
I think Pete is bringing you round to rustic :lol:


----------



## Doug B (17 Jun 2009)

Chas,

That`s a lovely piece of Elm. 
With natural edge forms your leaning against an open door with me, they are my favorite types of turned work. Excellent workmanship & finish.

This really is an informative & inspiring thread.


----------



## richburrow (17 Jun 2009)

I really like that natural edge bowl Chas!!!!!!!

The shape and proportions are just right (in my opinion.)

I am always worried about bits of bark coming off and spoiling the look of it, I have never had a go. 
More for that list :wink:


----------



## Bodrighy (17 Jun 2009)

Paul.J":1xd5bth3 said:


> Nice chunky looking piece Chas
> I think Pete is bringing you round to rustic :lol:



Never thought I'd see the day :lol: Good to see you doing proper turning at last instead of showing us all up with your usual meticulous items Chas. Interesting to see the techniques for mounting. I tried doing that with a doughnut chuck but couldn't get it stable enough to cut. Must have a go at making one of those. Have to be in wood though, can't do metal

pete


----------



## CHJ (17 Jun 2009)

richburrow":2il6zysb said:


> The shape and proportions are just right (in my opinion.)



Never sure how thin to take them *Rich*, just stopped with this one whilst the bark texture still held its character, just seemed right at the time.



richburrow":2il6zysb said:


> I am always worried about bits of bark coming off and spoiling the look of it,....



Up till now most of my home dried stuff has released it's bark, or at least in part, so has not lead to me attempting pieces. I now seem to have collected quite a bit with firm bark, guess I am just lucky with the drying rate/conditions or maybe it's the fact that I have enough lying around that it has had longer to dry slowly and naturally.


----------



## CHJ (17 Jun 2009)

Bodrighy":3ewbuegl said:


> .... Must have a go at making one of those. Have to be in wood though, can't do metal
> pete



I use the Cole Jaw plates *Pete* in faceplate mode, not a cheap option but very versatile for oddball pieces.

A decent piece of 18mm dense Ply should be fine, just make sure your clamps have opposing packers cut to correct length to keep them level.

With a bit of thought you can position the studs in such a position that they will still retain the piece whilst the lathe stops if one should start to let go.

Biggest problem is getting the third and four hand into gear to place/adjust the leveling packers whilst you tighten the clamps.

I try to use wood/hardboard tipped bolts/studding to form the support cradle, adjusted from the back of the faceplate, they don't fall out whilst clamping or turning.


----------



## johnny.t. (18 Jun 2009)

Very nice Chas, does it have a proper sturdy base or one of those tiny arty piece jobs?  

JT


----------



## CHJ (18 Jun 2009)

johnny.t.":1ul4bf19 said:


> Very nice Chas, does it have a proper sturdy base or one of those tiny arty piece jobs?
> 
> JT



It has a plain flat base for stability *JT*, it's intended as a sweets/nibbles dispenser so tipping over in use is not desirable.


----------



## CHJ (24 Jun 2009)

______
________*Can you do me earings like thatbut the same colour as this Pendant.*_______________Click on image for larger view.
______
________


________So out with the Laburnum Off-cuts.


As an aside, got the best finish yet on these using the burnishing mops, ironically the efforts to provide even lighting have removed the high gloss highlights.


----------



## johnny.t. (24 Jun 2009)

They look nice Chas, I must rig me up an off centre thing for holding round jewelery,it looks a hell of a lot better than just circular like I've been making(that SWMBO has nicknamed 'party rings' after the biccies :roll: )

JT


----------



## CHJ (28 Jun 2009)

______
________*Go on have a guess.*_______________Click on image for larger view.
______
________


________Indian Rosewood 75mm long.


----------



## johnny.t. (28 Jun 2009)

I'm going to say cigar holder for one cigar,although you know that I'm really wondering if it buzzes :shock: 

JT


----------



## CHJ (28 Jun 2009)

johnny.t.":tlj0fzvt said:


> I'm going to say cigar holder for one cigar,although you know that I'm really wondering if it buzzes :shock:
> 
> JT


 :roll: :roll: 

Somewhat small for either application *JT* :lol:


----------



## johnny.t. (28 Jun 2009)

Just to say for the above comment, it would buzz as its clearly a hutch for Chas's pet bee


----------



## Bodrighy (28 Jun 2009)

Looks like a needle box to me

Pete


----------



## CHJ (28 Jun 2009)

Bodrighy":2n9m79ck said:


> Looks like a needle box to me
> 
> Pete


Very Close Pete.


----------



## stevebuk (28 Jun 2009)

Toothpicks??


----------



## Paul.J (28 Jun 2009)

Yes i'd go along with a pocket toothpick holder :?: :? 
Is the top a push on or threaded Chas :?:


----------



## CHJ (28 Jun 2009)

Threaded *Paul.*


----------



## stevebuk (28 Jun 2009)

pill box???


----------



## CHJ (28 Jun 2009)

______
________*A stitch in time.*__________Click on images for larger view.
______
________

__




________Indian Rosewood 75mm long.


----------



## wizer (28 Jun 2009)

Really nice idea. That would be very useful!


----------



## Paul.J (28 Jun 2009)

Very nice Chas


----------



## Bodrighy (28 Jun 2009)

You've been reading up on victoriana again Chas. Lovely little piece and from experience I know that they are tricky little sods to do neatly. :lol: 

Pete


----------



## CHJ (2 Jul 2009)

______
________*Can I have one in lighter wood?*__________Click on images for larger view.
______
________

__

__




______________Yew 80mm long.

______Tried this one with alloy inserts to reduce weight but personally think I prefer brass for looks.


----------



## Paul.J (2 Jul 2009)

Looks good Chas  
Whre do you get the threaded inserts from :?:


----------



## CHJ (2 Jul 2009)

Paul.J":2nlxtlh6 said:


> .....Whre do you get the threaded inserts from :?:



I make them *Paul*:


----------



## johnny.t. (2 Jul 2009)

These are a neat little idea Chas. I like the look of this yew one better than the last.

JT


----------



## CHJ (2 Jul 2009)

Yes Johnny, I thought the Rosewood would look better but it's too small for any impact, and I certainly won't be turning any more than necessary of that particular species if I can help it, very dusty and fragile to turn and uncomfortable in contact with the skin. Will be trying some in Cherry next.


----------



## Paul.J (2 Jul 2009)

*CHJ wrote*


> I make them Paul:


I had a feeling you would say that Chas


----------



## Lightweeder (3 Jul 2009)

Just spotted these Chas. Absolutely brilliant =D> =D>


----------



## CHJ (5 Jul 2009)

______
________*Got some Jigs made and dimensions somewhat standardised to ease construction.*____Click on images for larger view.
______
________

__



___________Cherry, Cherry, Apple


----------



## johnny.t. (5 Jul 2009)

These are becoming a bit of a habbit for you Chas :lol:


----------



## CHJ (5 Jul 2009)

johnny.t.":1o42w2lz said:


> These are becoming a bit of a habbit for you Chas :lol:


Orders is Orders :lol: 

Still a bit of a fiddle johnny, could do half a dozen bowls in the time it takes to do a couple of these, definitely a batch job item to save setup & tool changing time.


----------



## CHJ (6 Jul 2009)

______
________*Trying a few alternate construction methods to speed up assembly time.*____Click on images for larger view.
______
________

__



______Yew 
______The brass collar speeds up the alignment process when gluing up but metal is a pain at buffing time as it contaminates the finish/mops and will eventually dull.


----------



## Paul.J (7 Jul 2009)

Looking good Chas  
There does seem to be some demand for them  
That last piece looks to be a pale looking piece of Yew :?


----------



## mikec (7 Jul 2009)

Great idea *Chas*,

Hope you won't mind if I make one for SWMBO.

Regards,

Mike C


----------



## CHJ (7 Jul 2009)

mikec":1db79kmw said:


> Hope you won't mind if I make one for SWMBO.



No problems *Mike*, hope you pick the right coloured bit of wood for starters :lol:


----------



## CHJ (9 Jul 2009)

______
________*Cherry.*____Click on images for larger view.
______
________

__

__



______
______'Screw Spikes' help disrupt wick when candle gets near wood and assist stability.


----------



## CHJ (9 Jul 2009)

______
________*A little something in Black for Madame.*__________Click on images for larger view.
______
________

__


______
_______________Ebonised Yew.


----------



## Bodrighy (9 Jul 2009)

I am getting seriously worried about you Chas. I've been offline for a week and you are getting more rustic by the day. Those are really nice (what else could I say?) I especially like the idea of the candle holder. I presume the screws are deheaded and threaded and glued in place?

Pete


----------



## CHJ (9 Jul 2009)

Bodrighy":1ph6mo0o said:


> ..... I presume the screws are deheaded and threaded and glued in place?......


Just deadhead and epoxy the shank Pete, moving to rustic with some of the home cured stuff rather than loads of shavings on the bonfire and now that I have a Buffing system developing, putting a finish on 'character' items is a lot easier.


----------



## Bodrighy (9 Jul 2009)

CHJ":v7i9dv0t said:


> Bodrighy":v7i9dv0t said:
> 
> 
> > ..... I presume the screws are deheaded and threaded and glued in place?......
> ...



Whatever the reason it's nice to see you doing things differently and with your usual excellent quality. Does this mean I have to start turning normal things as well? :lol: 

Pete


----------



## Paul.J (9 Jul 2009)

Those look really effective Chas,great idea with the spike too  
Il ike the ebonised Yew,too.Nice contrast  
Did you use the ebonising lacquer to do it :?:


----------



## CHJ (9 Jul 2009)

Paul.J":1kwiyjre said:


> ...Did you use the ebonising lacquer to do it :?:


Yes Paul Chestnuts Spray, left 48+ hours to harden before lightly burnishing with cream.


----------



## richburrow (9 Jul 2009)

Good looking stuff. Your finish is out standing, that yew looks so smooth.

I like the candle holder.
This an irrelevent comment because you wont see the screw, but I would have rather used one of those old style floor board nails / the rectangular ones


----------



## stevebuk (9 Jul 2009)

stunning chas just stunning, i think i say this everytime you post something, but as i am stunned by your stuff, its all i can think of saying.. :lol:


----------



## CHJ (9 Jul 2009)

richburrow":1brfbvxv said:


> ......I like the candle holder.
> This an irrelevent comment because you wont see the screw, but I would have rather used one of those old style floor board nails / the rectangular ones



Not the prettiest solution I agree *Rich*, but the average user would have difficulty mounting the candle, even plain spikes have been known to split them.


----------



## johnny.t. (9 Jul 2009)

Like the candle holder design Chas, very effective.

JT


----------



## PowerTool (9 Jul 2009)

Usual excellent quality of work,but as a fan of the rustic look,pleasantly different  

Andrew


----------



## CHJ (2 Sep 2009)

______
________*One down a dozen or so to do.*__________Click on image for larger view.
______
________


_______________Bubinga & Beech.


----------



## Jenx (2 Sep 2009)

This is an awesome piece .. I love it ! 8) 8) 8) 8)   

All are your usual high standard Chas, but that one in particular really butters my parsnips.. its terrific.  8) 8) [/img]


----------



## johnny.t. (2 Sep 2009)

That eggs impressive Chas :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: 

Why the gap between cup and 'shell collection area' it'll get yokey y'know  

JT


----------



## Bodrighy (2 Sep 2009)

Very clever Chas, how did you do the teaspoon? Be interesting to turn some like the ones we got from out chickens today. Sort of elongated. Not at all egg shaped

Is the brown part of the cup glued into the base or just slotted?

pete


----------



## CHJ (2 Sep 2009)

Bodrighy":2v8p7bzt said:


> ...Is the brown part of the cup glued into the base or just slotted?
> pete


Separate pieces *Pete*, egg cup is sat in a 35mm X 4mm recess.


----------



## Paul.J (2 Sep 2009)

Very nice Chas  
What finish have you put on them :?:


----------



## CHJ (2 Sep 2009)

Paul.J":2rltm39x said:


> .......What finish have you put on them :?:


Wipe on Melamine Paul.


----------



## CHJ (2 Sep 2009)

johnny.t.":18erlhhf said:


> That eggs impressive Chas :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


 That's what comes from leading a Shell-tered life :lol: .



johnny.t.":18erlhhf said:


> Why the gap between cup and 'shell collection area' it'll get yokey y'know



Because my turning ain't accurate enough to do half a dozen at a time that would all be a mix and match push fit.

I'm afraid recipient will have to give them a wipe with a damp cloth after use, remit is for them to be semi-stackable as separates to save storage space.



Bodrighy":18erlhhf said:


> Very clever Chas, how did you do the teaspoon?



Used my *Uri Geller Gouge*. :roll:


----------



## CHJ (10 Sep 2009)

______
________*The Collection is growing.*____Click on images for larger view.
________
________There are however local differences in preference for colour of wood
________or more correctly combination or otherwise of woods.
________I would be interested if there is an overriding forum member preference .
______
________


________
________Comments on members preferences would be appreciated.
_____*A*_

_____*B*_


_____*C*_

_____*D*_



_______As a matter of interest all the dark wood is the same colour, just my photography that is off.


----------



## wizer (10 Sep 2009)

I think B is my favourite.


----------



## cornucopia (10 Sep 2009)

yep B closely followed by A for me Chas


----------



## Jenx (10 Sep 2009)

C, then D for me Chas, but they're ALL good  ...
looks like the 'copying' is going well !!!


----------



## Lightweeder (10 Sep 2009)

I like 'D'. For me, cup and saucer would have to match, and breakfast is a light, cheery time - that's just my view, of course :?


----------



## Woodmagnet (10 Sep 2009)

Lightweeder":2ky7bylo said:


> I like 'D'. For me, cup and saucer would have to match, and breakfast is a light, cheery time - that's just my view, of course :?



Me too. :wink:


----------



## Paul.J (10 Sep 2009)

Well Chas we have all had a look at them here and we prefer the matching woods better,with the plainer D (Beech is it :?: ) one getting the vote.
I think that the contrasting woods are too much of a contrast.Might be better with perhaps just the rims of the cup and plate having a darker/lighter wood to give the contrast.
All very nice though


----------



## CHJ (10 Sep 2009)

Paul.J":3l2oogxv said:


> ...Might be better with perhaps just the rims of the cup and plate having a darker/lighter wood to give the contrast.
> .....



Oyii!! if you don't mind, making a couple of dozen to the same size is bad enough without adding trimmings.

Must admit though that there are a couple of glued up blanks along those lines lying around somewhere. :lol:


----------



## BMac (10 Sep 2009)

B then A for me but they all look good.


----------



## johnny.t. (10 Sep 2009)

A looks best to me  but theres something nice about a mix and match set  

JT


----------



## Paul.J (10 Sep 2009)

*CHJ wrote*


> Oyii!! if you don't mind, making a couple of dozen to the same size is bad enough without adding trimmings.


I thought you'd like the idea Chas :lol:


----------



## stevebuk (10 Sep 2009)

All look great chas, but D for me, can just imagine my egg running down the side of that cup, hmmm.


----------



## tulsk (10 Sep 2009)

I prefer D and then maybe A. To my eye the contrast in the others is too stark when the surface areas of the 2 respective components are so similar. Just my taste of course, there's nothing wrong with any of them; nice work.
Cheers John


----------



## Bodrighy (10 Sep 2009)

Toss up between B & A for me. D is really nice but somehow doesn't have the same appeal. 
My hats off to you in the copying.
Pete


----------



## Santos (11 Sep 2009)

Brilliant work, think I’d have to go for B.


----------



## boysie39 (11 Sep 2009)

Chas,I would have to go for A, maybe i'm old fashioned but I like the matching pieces. probly a throw back to when I was young and you used anything you could get. So hence the choice,but they are all lovely.REgards Boysie.


----------



## loz (11 Sep 2009)

Always a D-Cup for me Chas 

Loz


----------



## loftyhermes (11 Sep 2009)

A for me, but they're all good.


----------



## CHJ (12 Sep 2009)

Well this is the consensus so far, don't know that it will influence which or what set goes where but it is interesting to note a distinct difference in preference across the pond.


----------



## CHJ (12 Sep 2009)

______
________*The first dozen, and a couple of spares.*____Click on image for larger view.
________
________


________
___________Beech and Bubinga


----------



## Bodrighy (12 Sep 2009)

Is there some sort of 'bulk order disease' going on at the moment. I've had an order for 6 goblets, I have also done about 20 spinning tops and a dozen T lights in the last week. Richard with all his knobs....anyone left doing one offs? :lol: 

Pete


----------



## CHJ (12 Sep 2009)

Bodrighy":g5tnup7a said:


> Is there some sort of 'bulk order disease' going on at the moment. I've had an order for 6 goblets, I have also done about 20 spinning tops and a dozen T lights in the last week. Richard with all his knobs....anyone left doing one offs? :lol:
> 
> Pete



I've still got a set of Coasters in Beech to do, might know the person has a table with 10 place settings :roll: 

Good to have the added challenge of the repeated dimension control from time to time, but it can be a problem balancing time in the shop to finish the run before or without it becoming a chore.


----------



## CHJ (13 Sep 2009)

Made a start on the Coasters, for those new to turning my method of approach for Batch production might be of interest, 
same method used for the saucers above, just a variation of top surface contour.



 << clicky


----------



## devonwoody (14 Sep 2009)

Bought any new/replacement chisels yet this year.  

Nice collection and lovely earning work.


----------



## CHJ (14 Sep 2009)

devonwoody":1c5z1enx said:


> Bought any new/replacement chisels yet this year.



No *John*, , been turning 4 1/2 yrs now and the number of tools actually used decreases all the time, have not removed significant metal from any that would suggest they will need replacing in the next 5 yrs.


----------



## Lightweeder (14 Sep 2009)

As usual Chas, if you don't mind, I will be pinching your ideas. 

LW


----------



## CHJ (14 Sep 2009)

Lightweeder":4ax9xx2e said:


> As usual Chas, if you don't mind, I will be pinching your ideas.
> 
> LW


You're welcome *LW*, never know whether I pitch these How-To things too low for general consumption on the forum. 
I try to keep things as simple as possible without constant measuring whilst doing repeat tasks myself and hopefully they encourage a new starter to develop their own simple methods.


----------



## CHJ (15 Sep 2009)

Bodrighy":aeldvmmy said:


> Is there some sort of 'bulk order disease' going on at the moment. ......Pete



It's all your fault *Pete*, you must be radiating the idea into the ether, "can I do a set of 18 Tea Light holders please?" if it's not too much trouble, don't have to match exactly just be complimentary and with wood from local source. :roll:


----------



## Bodrighy (15 Sep 2009)

Definitely something in the air...20 egg cups please and oh yes some of those goblets you do. How much are copy lathes? :lol: 

Pete


----------



## CHJ (18 Sep 2009)

______
________*Might know they wanted 10 place settings. :roll: *____Click on image for larger view.
________
________


________
_____________Beech Coasters


----------



## stevebuk (18 Sep 2009)

they look really lovely chas, just wanting to be pyrographed eh! :lol:


----------



## CHJ (18 Sep 2009)

stevebuk":2tkp5m55 said:


> they look really lovely chas, just wanting to be pyrographed eh! :lol:



Fortunately for me a plain minimalist look was wanted to go with a new table.


----------



## CHJ (27 Sep 2009)

______
________*A couple of bits to accompany the coasters *____Click on image for larger view.
________
________


________
____________Beech Pill Platters


----------



## CHJ (27 Sep 2009)

______
________*A bit of light at the end of at the tunnel*____Click on images for larger view.
________
________

__


________

__


________
_____________________Beech, Ash and Laburnum


----------



## Jenx (28 Sep 2009)

:lol:  :lol: You'll be seeing those 'pucks of wood' in your sleep Chas ! ... cracking job of getting throught them though... they look great all together there...
will they be staying with the one household ?


----------



## CHJ (28 Sep 2009)

Jenx":1jl1zj3k said:


> will they be staying with the one household ?



*Jenx,* 18 are destined to be used in the same location, (a church) just need to co-ordinate with requester which ones they prefer, remainder will go to my usual customer.


----------



## Paul.J (28 Sep 2009)

Well we are expecting power cuts aren't we :? :lol: :lol: 
Great work Chas


----------



## Lightweeder (28 Sep 2009)

Lovely pieces, as always Chas. I particularly like the ones made out of two pieces, or laminated.

LW


----------



## paulm (28 Sep 2009)

Like the night light holders Chas. Are the candles in a glass liner or something similar, can't quite make it out on the photos ?

Like the choice of timbers too, what kind of finish did you use ?

Cheers, Paul


----------



## CHJ (28 Sep 2009)

Lightweeder":2bfnlmq8 said:


> Lovely pieces, as always Chas. I particularly like the ones made out of two pieces, or laminated.
> LW


 Actually as result of trying to gather enough wood from a particular source as requested by the recipient LW, might know the major stash had been cut up into differing size blanks.



paulm":2bfnlmq8 said:


> Like the night light holders Chas. Are the candles in a glass liner or something similar, can't quite make it out on the photos ?
> 
> Like the choice of timbers too, what kind of finish did you use ?
> 
> Cheers, Paul



Yes Paul, I don't trust candles in wood without the glass inserts to disperse the heat, also they add sparkle to the flame effect.


________



Sanding sealer and finished off with carnauba to improve handling.


----------



## paulm (28 Sep 2009)

Thanks Chas. Where did you find the glass inserts ? 

Likewise don't like the idea of dropping the nightlights directly into the wood, and the glass looks better aesthetically when lit or unlit as you say.

Cheers, Paul


----------



## CHJ (28 Sep 2009)

paulm":1wte8kiy said:


> Thanks Chas. Where did you find the glass inserts ? .....
> Cheers, Paul



Might I suggest Specsavers :lol: :lol:


----------



## paulm (28 Sep 2009)

Aaaah, now I see it :lol: 

Cheers, Paul


----------



## CHJ (1 Oct 2009)

______
________*At the Pencil Pots again.*____Click on images for larger view.
________
________

__


________
_____________________Beech & Ash (85x115mm)


----------



## devonwoody (1 Oct 2009)

They are nice to look at.


----------



## wizer (1 Oct 2009)

What a bizarre coincidence. I was turning a pencil pot yesterday. You'rs trumps mine to a factor of 100 tho  :lol: Lovely wood.


----------



## stevebuk (1 Oct 2009)

spot on chas, they look amazing gives me another idea with what to fill my glass cabinet with at work, they look like they might sell.. :lol:


----------



## Paul.J (1 Oct 2009)

Those look nice Chas  
Love the colour of the Ash


----------



## Bodrighy (1 Oct 2009)

My first thpight was 'beer mugs'. I have never done any laminating which is daft as it's a great way of using up adds and ends and if it looked like thes I'd be more than happy.

Pete


----------



## CHJ (1 Oct 2009)

Bodrighy":10xt29qn said:


> .... I have never done any laminating which is daft as it's a great way of using up adds and ends ....


Yes *Pete*, the underlying reason for the laminating with the current in-work items is to use up smaller pieces, driven I must confess by my inappropriate blank sizing over the last couple of years, which has left me with a totally unbalance stock of blanks for the items being requested. In the case of the above it is also allowing me to sandwich a softer less robust spalted sample between two harder wearing pieces.

Just needs a bit of project management to speed things up because of the time lost waiting for glue-ups to dry if you try to do them singularly.

Am going to try using CA on some to see how it fares.


----------



## Lightweeder (2 Oct 2009)

CHJ":rjaqccb7 said:


> Am going to try using CA on some to see how it fares.



Be interested to hear how you get on Chas. I've tried hot glue and CA, neither of which worked for me. It always comes back to PVA and waiting overnight for me.


----------



## CHJ (2 Oct 2009)

Lightweeder":33oidzh6 said:


> Be interested to hear how you get on Chas. I've tried hot glue and CA, neither of which worked for me.


______
________Just for you* LW.*____ Done with Thin CA, just 2-3 mins before continuing turning.____Click on images for larger view.
________
________

__

__


________
___________________Ash ____________________ Ash & Beech_________________Ash & Beech


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## Bodrighy (2 Oct 2009)

They all look good but No 3 really appeals to me. Just something about that one that clicks 

Pete


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## devonwoody (2 Oct 2009)

ChJ, did you use an accelerator with the super glue?
Like the turnings.


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## Bodrighy (2 Oct 2009)

devonwoody":f7nvnl24 said:


> ChJ, did you use an accelerator with the super glue?
> Like the turnings.



:twisted: Evil stuff....it has so many toxins it makes iroko seem like an edible plant. 

Pete


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## CHJ (2 Oct 2009)

devonwoody":3kt0hktt said:


> ChJ, did you use an accelerator with the super glue?
> ...


No John, never had the need to use any, or buy any for that matter.


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## Lightweeder (3 Oct 2009)

Smartypants :roll: I shall try again :?


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## CHJ (3 Oct 2009)

Lightweeder":3zbey57b said:


> Smartypants :roll: I shall try again :?


PM sent.


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## Lightweeder (3 Oct 2009)

Got it - thanks Chas.

LW


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## CHJ (3 Oct 2009)

______
________*The subject of a WIP,* (according to the camera 1hr39.)____Click on image for larger view.
________
________[/color________
________


_______________Beech & Ash


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## Bodrighy (3 Oct 2009)

Chas, why don't you just admit it and confess that you are a closet segmenter. :lol: 

Nice work by the way......again

Pete


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## CHJ (3 Oct 2009)

Bodrighy":335tmnwd said:


> Chas, why don't you just admit it and confess that you are a closet segmenter. :lol:
> .....
> Pete


Goes with my split personalities I suppose, never admit to anything.


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## CHJ (4 Oct 2009)

______
________*Two more to the collection.*____Click on images for larger view.
________
________

__


________
_______________Beech & Ash____________________Ash


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## johnny.t. (4 Oct 2009)

I don't like those Chas :shock: They look a bit weird to me :shock: Especially the one with the bulbous middle :shock: 

The one 3 posts above is rather nice though  and the colours of the timber work really well together.

JT


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## CHJ (5 Oct 2009)

johnny.t.":1at3arax said:


> I don't like those Chas :shock: They look a bit weird to me :shock: Especially the one with the bulbous middle :shock:
> JT



That's OK *JT*, customer did and money is in the piggy bank already. :lol:


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## CHJ (5 Oct 2009)

______
________*Small request for some replacements,*____Click on image for larger view.
________
________[/color________
________


_____________Oak Draw Knobs


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## Paul.J (5 Oct 2009)

Those knobs look nice Chas


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## Bodrighy (5 Oct 2009)

I've only done a 1/2 dozen of these and they drove me nuts, copying and getting them the same. You have done a much better job than I did by the look of it. The ones I had to do were stained so I had to try and match that as well.. 

Pete


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## CHJ (5 Oct 2009)

Must admit I wondered how they would go, I started these about 3 this afternoon after having a rout in the scrap box for some suitable bits of oak and a scan of the pattern and scaled printout to fabricate a cut-out template, in the end though template was not needed other than to note the aiming diameters and length points.

Basically turned to major diameter, marked length guides, reduced sections to prime diameters, blended curves down to meet.


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## devonwoody (6 Oct 2009)

So Chas please list the tools I would need to match your output.

I would love to be in your league.


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## CHJ (6 Oct 2009)

devonwoody":3jbpppo5 said:


> So Chas please list the tools I would need to match your output.
> .



You just need the tools the lord provided, a couple of bits of shaped metal to help with the cutting and some practice John. The latter is the most significant.

Remember I have turned out in excess of 1000 bits off the lathe since I started playing, non are masterpieces, most are mundane, but they have honed an ability to set about a task with a good chance of succeeding.


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## CHJ (8 Oct 2009)

______
________*Glass lined Vase, *..____Click on image for larger view.
________
________________
________


___________Beech & Ash 
_____(185mm H x 74mm B, 67mm T)

________Got carried away and it turned out too tall for pencils.


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## devonwoody (9 Oct 2009)

Another nice one, I like your style.

Who benefits from all your wood shavings?


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## CHJ (9 Oct 2009)

devonwoody":3v73hbhk said:


> ....Who benefits from all your wood shavings?


 These cooler evenings, the local wildlife whilst it slow burns John. :lol:


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## CHJ (18 Oct 2009)

______
________*Another little batch *..____Click on image for larger view.
________
________________
________


_____________Ash & Zebrano


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## Paul.J (18 Oct 2009)

Very nice looking bangles Chas,with two nice contrasting timbers  
You seem to have the joints down to perfection.


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## Bodrighy (18 Oct 2009)

Haven't you run out of offcuts yet Chas? :lol: 

You are going to have to use all this expertise and make something bigger with them. A big bowl or platter or something. 

No comment needed re quality etc. A+ as always

Pete


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## CHJ (19 Oct 2009)

A bit of a fiddle in preparation pays dividends Paul, also I've found it pays to let the glue-ups settle for a while for moisture to equalise before turning.

Am going to move to a different adhesive though, probably Polymite, been using low creep PVA but still get movement if heat is generated in sanding etc.


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## CHJ (19 Oct 2009)

Bodrighy":szap14vh said:


> Haven't you run out of offcuts yet Chas? :lol:
> ..Pete



Get a new bag full ever week it seems Pete, ironically you need a decent length of wood to hold to produce accurate segments, which then leaves you with a well prepared offcut that's too good to throw away :lol: .


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## johnny.t. (19 Oct 2009)

You do make these segmented bangles very well Chas  Segmenting is something I've not tried, I can only imagine the gaps if I did :lol: 

JT


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## CHJ (19 Oct 2009)

johnny.t.":2ndjd584 said:


> ..... Segmenting is something I've not tried, I can only imagine the gaps if I did :lol:
> 
> JT



Main problem *Johnny *is deciding a method of cutting to size (segment length) that you are able to repeat. I use a chop saw and disc sander.

Stock wood must be prepared square and true on all four sides, stock size is not ultra critical.

Most critical thing is to keep the cut surfaces flat and square to the ends.

Taper is also important of course, but as long as you do a dry run clamp-up first it's possible to do a minor adjustment on the odd piece to get a good circle.

The easiest sectioned pieces to do are like the vase and pencil pots, all alignment and joint fit is done on the lathe.


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## Lightweeder (19 Oct 2009)

Lovely, as always, *Chas*. Let us know how you get on with your new glue.

LW


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## CHJ (19 Oct 2009)

______
________*Handled another little project.*..____Click on images for larger view.
________
________________
________








_____________Walnut & Stained Beech


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## wizer (19 Oct 2009)

V.Nice Chas How are you finding them?


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## CHJ (19 Oct 2009)

Shiny and sharp *Tom*,  

Haven't had time to try them out yet, steels delivered Sat, only got the handles done late this afternoon.

Hope to bore everyone with beads a plenty anytime soon.


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## wizer (19 Oct 2009)

Looking forward to it


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## DaveL (19 Oct 2009)

Chas,

I have looked at those and I think Richard has one for a repeat job he does, might put them on the Christmas list.


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## CHJ (19 Oct 2009)

DaveL":2ytwkjbd said:


> Chas,
> I have looked at those and I think Richard has one for a repeat job he does, might put them on the Christmas list.


A bit of a cheat really I suppose *Dave*, there's enough tools already in a standard kit to do beads, something I tried about a month into turning but what the heck, sometimes an easier way just seems too attractive to be too PC.


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## Paul.J (20 Oct 2009)

Very nice Chas  
I'll be keeping a *B-D-I* on this :lol:


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## CHJ (23 Oct 2009)

______
________*Another request out of the way*..____Click on image for larger view.
________
________________
________


_________Ovangol_(225mm H)


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## Bodrighy (23 Oct 2009)

Posh toilet roll holders! Something different.

Seriously, your usual quality of workmanship and finish. Not surprised you are getting these commissions Chas. 

Pete


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## stevebuk (23 Oct 2009)

beautiful as always chas, can i just ask what finish you use, i have recently bought lemon oil, and finishing oil but i dont seem to get a shine on any of my stuff, so i often tend to friction polish everything because i likes a shine, i does, governer.. :lol:


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## Bodrighy (23 Oct 2009)

For a simple shine wax polish is fine Steve. Friction polish has shellac in it . Most oils leave at best a satin finish, some of them a matt finish but they can be burnished after being allowed to dry. Another trick, try just using sanding sealer then burnishing on the lathe with shavings. Might surprise you

Pete


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## stevebuk (23 Oct 2009)

Bodrighy":3smc2yyv said:


> Another trick, try just using sanding sealer then burnishing on the lathe with shavings. Might surprise you
> 
> Pete



i dont know about surprise pete, it will annoy me having spent money on oils i didn't need!! :lol: :lol:


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## CHJ (23 Oct 2009)

Just a quick reply while the visitors are putting the world to right.

80 % of my pieces are finished with sanding sealer, and as Pete says, immediately burnished to a hard shine whilst drying, trick is to put enough on to burnish without causing build up streaks.
Sometimes if water resistance or harder wearing required this is followed by a coat of melamine, again burnished, this requires considerable practice to get right. Cutting-polishing with burnishing cream can enhance this finish considerably if required.

If gloss required on limited handling items then I use Woodwax22.

High gloss is normally carnauba wax applied via buffing system, the last few items are examples.


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## CHJ (23 Oct 2009)

Bodrighy":1hoptpvr said:


> Posh toilet roll holders! Something different.
> 
> Pete



Hmmmm, will remember that, especially as the Brummie thought it was funny.


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## Bodrighy (24 Oct 2009)

I must admit the only oil I use Steve is Tesco's finest. A couple of coats on things such as rolling pins, honey dippers etc that need to be food safe. Olive oil goes rancid but sunflower, corn or plain vegetable oil work fine.

Pete


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## Paul.J (27 Oct 2009)

*CHJ wrote*


> especially as the Brummie thought it was funny.


Now now Chas,i thought they were beer pump pulls :lol: 
But having seen this pair first hand they are very very nice,with the usual lovely finish,and the base is finished of very nicely too


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## CHJ (4 Nov 2009)

______
________*Some afternoons are just busier than others.*..____Click on image for larger view
________
________________
________


_______Small Beech Salad Bowls_(140mm)


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## Paul.J (4 Nov 2009)

You sure you haven't got a copy lathe hidden away somewhere Chas :lol: 
Those look really nice and see the beading tools are coming in handy


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## wizer (4 Nov 2009)

Seven bowls in a day :shock: I can't get through one!

They look fantastic Chas. Simple design for utilitarian use. I'd love a set in our cupboard.


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## CHJ (4 Nov 2009)

wizer":2a0u00gh said:


> Seven bowls in a day :shock: I can't get through one!


 It's just a case of getting organised Tom, actually the blanks were cut yesterday.
1. prepare all blanks to same dimensions, diameter and thickness, with central hole for screw chuck.
Procedure.
2. turn first to finished diameter, set and lock calipers for checking remainder.
3. face off and pencil mark base socket and bead location with socket gauge.
4. cut socket and inner base relief with parting tool and skew, form bead.
5. thickness blank on front face (chuck side) with parting tool, checking with vernier calipers.
6. form outer curve to blend between bead and rim.
7. sand finish base.
8. remove from screw chuck and mount on socket.
9. cut thickness guide in face with thin parting tool, helps stop bowl gouge tracking over outer edge.
10 hollow out to depth in central area, check with preset depth gauge, blend in curve from rim to base.
11. finish sand, brush off dust, apply initial oil finish, remove from chuck and complete oiling of base.

Repeat: (calipers etc. are set ready, the 4-5 gouges found best for purpose are known.)



wizer":2a0u00gh said:


> I'd love a set in our cupboard.


 You have a lathe, make it work.  don't fixate on form, proportions etc, the salad is not going to care and as long as SWMBO is happy to have them in the cupboard they'll do.

Although I say it myself these are far better looking than the one the customer brought along as a sample for size, filled screw holes in base etc.

If you really try you can fit a 15mile round trip to the Gym and an hours warm-up in before you start :lol:


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## Bodrighy (4 Nov 2009)

As Chas said, it's all about organising it. Nice sharp tools it doesn't take that long to knock out a basic bowl without frills which is what these are (no criticism meant Chas) We can get hung up on being fancy and just keeping it simple is sometimes a lot better.

pete


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## CHJ (4 Nov 2009)

Bodrighy":1h06wmkw said:


> As Chas said, it's all about organising it. Nice sharp tools it doesn't take that long to knock out a basic bowl without frills which is what these are (no criticism meant Chas) We can get hung up on being fancy and just keeping it simple is sometimes a lot better.
> 
> pete



No criticism read Pete; you summed it up very succinctly.


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## wizer (4 Nov 2009)

Thanks, the only thing I've turned is a set of is the wheels on the pram I just made. The thought of making more than one thing on the lathe, to be a near copy, fills me with dread. I'll have to dig out four similar bowl blanks and give it a go


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## CHJ (5 Nov 2009)

wizer":35jrfoqz said:


> .....The thought of making more than one thing on the lathe, to be a near copy, fills me with dread. .....



Relax, the odd mm here and there is not going to show unless they are measured, even then the fact that any wood used is going to move as soon as, maybe even before, it comes off the lathe is going to mask any slight variation.

Develope the practice of giving yourself aiming points by using parting grooves, finished diameters, chamfered corners etc. then it's just a case of blending between points. Watch the form on the back side of the piece not at the tool edge, it's easier to see the flow of the curve.


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## CHJ (13 Nov 2009)

______
________*A relaxing hour in the shed.*..________Click on images for larger view.
________
________________
________






__________________Yew _____________________(215mm)


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## Steve Jones (13 Nov 2009)

Very nice Chas,

Can I ask are the tiles simply glued in place or left to float in case of timber expansion ?

Steve


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## CHJ (13 Nov 2009)

Steve Jones":2kzo01bm said:


> Very nice Chas,
> 
> Can I ask are the tiles simply glued in place or left to float in case of timber expansion ?
> 
> Steve



I have always glued mine in place *Steve*, the smaller ones I use Hot melt, larger diameter cheese boards I use acrylic sealer to allow more give.

Only ever had one Platter move sufficient to show, wood was obviously not as dry as I thought, fortunately it's in the family but user refuses to have it reworked, mind you I don't know how I would get the tile out if they insisted on the same piece of wood.


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## Steve Jones (13 Nov 2009)

Thanks Chas

It's something else for my 'to do' list !

Steve


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## hog&amp;bodge (13 Nov 2009)

relaxing hour in shed...lol..want to be on your Xmas list.
Very nice finish..
Just spent 3 hours and all I got was sawdust.


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## CHJ (13 Nov 2009)

hog&bodge":22w7rt27 said:


> relaxing hour in shed...lol..want to be on your Xmas list.


 No chance, the list doesn't stop growing as it is.


hog&bodge":22w7rt27 said:


> Just spent 3 hours and all I got was sawdust.


It will come, just keep practicing and one day things will start to flow.

If I have one piece of advice for any new turner based on my own attempts to get an understanding with a bit of spinning wood.

Forget trying to get the perfect form, trying to emulate the very skilled, pick a simple task and form and repeat a few times until you can pick up the tool for the next stage without having to think about them.
Then move on to something else simple but requiring a different approach.

After a while you will look at a piece or design and realise which method or tools *you* would use to create similar, that's the time to start concentrating on the aesthetics.

Nothing wrong in appreciating the work of the accomplished, but most are producing work and styles that they have developed within their own preferences, ability and tool manipulation. Better to master your own abilities that fail to match theirs.

The above of course is just my opinion but it is one that has given me nearly 5 years most enjoyable shed time.


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## hog&amp;bodge (13 Nov 2009)

Thanks I have come to realize the need to take a step back..
Was working on a piece of spalted beech and it all ended up in
dust and bits flying off...lol.
I have a few books in the post recommended by our members &
will just work from them till like you say get the feel of the tools
and wood.
Also going to attend the wood-turning club near me.

Them Small Beech Salad Bowls look the business I like the way you finish the bases of your work.
Alex..


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## CHJ (13 Nov 2009)

hog&bodge":n8ersae8 said:


> .......Them Small Beech Salad Bowls look the business I like the way you finish the bases of your work.
> Alex..



I try to remove evidence of holding method if possible rather than just disguise it, having said that sometimes like in the case of the salad bowls it is left on deliberately so that it will be easier to hold them if ever the need arises should the recipient request a clean up of the finish at a future date.


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## Bodrighy (13 Nov 2009)

If you glue the disc into cheese board then any bits that get between the disc and the wood are really hard to clean out. I would advise that you make them a good fit but don't glue. Also if the wood does move there is a danger of the tile cracking. 

Pete


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## Paul.J (14 Nov 2009)

Yes very nice Chas  
Looks to be a plain piece of Yew. :?


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## CHJ (14 Nov 2009)

Paul.J":1vx5lwxo said:


> .....Looks to be a plain piece of Yew. :?


It's a piece out of a wide plank *Paul*, deliberately avoided the sapwood to get consistent colour. It will of course go considerably darker over time.


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## CHJ (20 Nov 2009)

______
________*One 'just 'cause I can' for a change..*..________Click on images for larger view.
________
________________
________






__________________Oak _____________________(205mm)
__________________________________


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## Paul.J (20 Nov 2009)

Lovely clean,crisp,bowl Chas  
Are the beads finish straight off the tool :?:


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## Bodrighy (20 Nov 2009)

Getting nice crisp edges in oak isn't that easy IME, oak splinters and chips so easily. Did you use your new beading tools on theis one Chas?

pete


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## CHJ (20 Nov 2009)

Paul.J":2zdzlf7m said:


> ...Are the beads finish straight off the tool :?:



More or less Paul, a bit of a polish with 240 so as not to remove the detail. if you are careful you can finish the cut in something approaching a shear scraper mode.


Bodrighy":2zdzlf7m said:


> ..... Did you use your new beading tools on theis one Chas?
> pete


Yes Pete, it's easier when you cheat.


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## CHJ (23 Nov 2009)

______
________*Another one to order..*..________Click on images for larger view.
________
________________
________






__________________Oak _____________________(250mm)


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## hog&amp;bodge (23 Nov 2009)

Lovey finish...as always.
You must have commissions booked till next winter..  
What is it going to be used for...E.g fruit..& if so do you have
to be careful with the finish getting stained


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## Bodrighy (23 Nov 2009)

Impeccable as always Chas. 

Pete


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## CHJ (23 Nov 2009)

hog&bodge":30cibo42 said:


> ......What is it going to be used for...E.g fruit..& if so do you have to be careful with the finish getting stained



Not certain *h&b*, suspect it will be used for dry display purposes but should be fine for normal fruit as it's finished with canauba wax, which is quite robust.
If a piece is known to be for soft fruit or fruit that is prone to deterioration in the dish then I use a melamine enhanced lacquer to resist moisture and can be subjected to a wet wipe on a regular basis without loosing the gloss.


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## Paul.J (23 Nov 2009)

That is another beading lovely piece Chas  
Some nice looking Oak your producing.


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## CHJ (26 Nov 2009)

______
________*Pendants a Plenty..*..________Click on image for larger view.
________
________________
______________



____ A melange of Plum,Yew,Zebrano,Bubinga,Ovangol,Cherry


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## hog&amp;bodge (27 Nov 2009)

One novel idea that would be a hit with some of my 
family members..
Very useful way to use the off cuts of wood...


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## Paul.J (27 Nov 2009)

Very nice selection Chas  
More Xmas pressies :?:


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## johnny.t. (27 Nov 2009)

These look classy Chas  

What wire are you using to make the eyes?


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## Lightweeder (27 Nov 2009)

I was the only seller at a WI Christmas get-together last night, so I did quite well   but, one again, not a single pendant  I hope you do better with these Chas.


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## CHJ (27 Nov 2009)

johnny.t.":1v0daf9z said:


> ......
> 
> What wire are you using to make the eyes?



I've been using silver/silver plated finings *johnny,* being a skinflint forming an extra eye with the surplus offcuts.



Lightweeder":1v0daf9z said:


> ...... but, one again, not a single pendant  I hope you do better with these Chas.



No problems with those *LW,* delivered today (850 miles as a crow flys)


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## Bodrighy (27 Nov 2009)

Ironically I have just made 40 pendant blanks for someone to pyrograph and paint. Someone obviously likes pendants :lol: 

Pete


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## hog&amp;bodge (27 Nov 2009)

Hi *CHJ* Just got couple blocks bees wax off ebay like below
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Pure-Bees-Wax-Bee ... 3ca30c1df6

They are hard small blocks: Question is how do I apply it to the wood.
Sounds silly but do you just turn the lathe on and rub the block on
the work then buff, of heat it till it is soft and apply.
tried it hard but it went streaky. It is also hard to get it down in to 
small beading in the work..so do you use a soft wax application..?
Thanks in advance...


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## CHJ (27 Nov 2009)

*H&B,* I never use raw bees wax, I only ever use Chestnuts Woodwax22 which is a soft wax blend of bees wax and canauba wax.

Anything likely to subjected to increased handling I use Canauba wax applied with a burnishing mop, the wax is applied to the spinning mop, it needs the heat of the friction to melt, then when applied to the wood the friction heat transfers it to the piece.


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## hog&amp;bodge (27 Nov 2009)

Just found a tin on ebay £7.25 with £2.95 P&P
is that about the right price.


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## Steve Jones (27 Nov 2009)

H&B, personally I think that's a bit expensive I've just had a search round the net and found it at around £7 inc p&p http://www.turnersworkshop.co.uk/woodturnersupplies.html

No connection other than knowing Richard is a member on here.

Regards
Steve


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## hog&amp;bodge (27 Nov 2009)

Thanks guys have just ordered some of Richard site...
About time I started to put a finish on some work...just for the practice
alex


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## Paul.J (27 Nov 2009)

Richard Raffan uses beeswax on most his turnings.
Uses the same cloth so there is a build up of the wax on that,but the lathe will have to run fast to melt it and spread it evenly.
Woodwax is a lot easier


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## CHJ (27 Nov 2009)

Basic limitation with Bees wax is that it melts at hand temperature, therefore if regularly handled it can dull, also if subjected to water splashes it can show as white 'rain drop' type marks.

I think *petercharlesfagg (UK)* recently had a problem with this and had to rework some of his stuff which only had his usual Bees wax finish.


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## Bodrighy (27 Nov 2009)

Beeswax was traditionally used to waterproof the inside of drinking vessels by melting and allowing to soak into the grain repeatedly so I suppose historically it has been used

pete


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## Lightweeder (28 Nov 2009)

Bodrighy":3jhm3hkt said:


> Ironically I have just made 40 pendant blanks for someone to pyrograph and paint. Someone obviously likes pendants :lol:
> 
> Pete



I like pendants - I love pendants, and being female, I wear them :wink: but I've never come close to selling one. I've got an outlet which has taken a dozen, and marked them up considerably, so we'll see how that goes.

LW


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## CHJ (28 Nov 2009)

If done on spec. they do move better if in a set with earrings *LW*. despite boxes full of suitable material I only do them to order these days.


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## hog&amp;bodge (28 Nov 2009)

Thanks for the input guys Richard is sending me a tin of 22 wax & with
the bars of bees wax which apparently have a percentage of
canauba wax mixed in..I will practice some finishes..

I was in Scarborough early this summer & came across a small stall 
that sold pendants and pens in a small
glass case..I asked the owner about them she said they sell very well. 
They where being made by a friend of hers...'Bet' he's a member of the forum :lol: 
Not to bring money in to art of wood-turning but it can get quite expensive
especially when you want to use the more exotic woods....


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