# Homemade Lathe



## CRAFTY (11 Jan 2017)

Hello all,i have just started to build my own lathe out of timber,the only problem that i will have is the shaft,i am using 16mm threaded rod and screws,bought two bearings today,25mm inside measure,i have started to grind down a 16mm steel joiner which is 28mm outer measure,it is still a little bit wobbly,but was getting dark,i think it should work,i will put two nuts either side to keep it from shifting,i am using a washing machine motor,it is fairly powerful,does not want to stop when pressure applied,so i will be putting maybe a fan speed controller on it,with a safety stop,everything else is handy work,so if anyone has any ideas on a better way of fitting the 16mm shaft to the 25mm inside diameter bearing? i would love to hear it,thanks very much. (homer)


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## SVB (11 Jan 2017)

Wow. So many thoughts and so little time to write them! Would love to see a photo to get a full picture (terrible pun) of what you're doing. What sort of turning do you plan to do?

S


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## CRAFTY (11 Jan 2017)

hay thanks,i am using 18mm plywood,i am actually copying a guy of you tube,as dangerous as it is to make a lathe,i feel better copying this guy,it looks good,if i don't get the shaft correct,i will have one made to fit the bearings,you tube PAOSON WOODWORKING and it is down the bottom,HOMEMADE LATHE and DISC SANDER,take a look and see what you think,i want to make djembe,bowls,lamps,globes,my own turning tools, all sorts of stuff,it will be 32" from jaw to tail and 10" from base to center pivot,fit a nice size log in there hahaha,but will it stay there is the high voltage question


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## YewTube (12 Jan 2017)

Crafty
I have had a look at the Paoson site. 
I do not understand why you bought 25mm ID bearings when 16mm ID are available at circa £6.50 each.

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Bearings/c3/index.html

or am I missing something?

Bill


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## CRAFTY (12 Jan 2017)

hello there cheers,i actually answered your Q in my other thread by mistake like a dope only out of bed,anyway,after searching the local providers i finally found some bearings,so i was not going home empty handed was happy to bring two home and see if my plan i made in the shop would succeed ,if it doesn't work i have a place an hour away to order them thanks for the link,much appreciated,back soon.


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## graduate_owner (12 Jan 2017)

Just a thought, and probably too late now anyway, but - 
Could you get hold of a lathe spindle? This would give you an accurately threaded nose and a Morse taper too. I bought a spindle from a graduate for about £15, and so I can mount it in the chuck of my metal lathe. Then I can mount my graduate accessories on my metal lathe, giving me a very large speed range powered by a 3HP motor - not something I do regularly but useful on occasions ( drilling out largd holes in end grain for example).
In your case, I suppose any spindle might do, perhaps from a scrapped lathe, either wood or metal lathe.

K


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## CRAFTY (12 Jan 2017)

how are ya,i will get one at some point,but for now i'm focusing on getting the lathe built,i got the base close to finished today,didn't get to do anymore with the shaft,i thinking i might just do it rite and get a shaft made up to suit the bearings,and save any problems down the road,thanks for the thought,so you have a metal and a wood lathe??make me a 25mm shaft will ya,hehe


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## CRAFTY (13 Jan 2017)

ok just decided i'm gona get a shaft made,i'll drop in to him nxt week,better safe then sorry


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## graduate_owner (13 Jan 2017)

Hi Crafty,
Yes I have a wood and a metal lathe, the metal one is a Colchester Master, quite a beast. What I don't yet have unfortunately, is the skills to use it effectively. Just too many things to do.
Good luck with your build. I expect once the spindle and bearings are sorted, the rest should be plain sailing.

K


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## CRAFTY (13 Jan 2017)

Nice,and what do you be turning?thanks it's comming along,just need to make the tail piece,tool rest,curve the cover for the gear housing,I need to get the safety stop and speed control,I went to get my shaft made today and it will be ready on monday,25mm shaft to fit the bearings,tight fit,I like it,I am getting both ends threaded to 20mm to fit a joiner,shape it to grab the timber,the other end will be a disc sander,then the tail piece will have a 16mm threaded rod,I took pics to put up then realized the phones were down,will put them up tomorrow,cheers


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## graduate_owner (13 Jan 2017)

A morse taper on the inboard side would be useful, if you can get your machinist to do it at a reasonable price - minimum mt2. Also remember the threads on the spindle are to hold the accessories on, but it's the register that aligns them accuragely. Have you discussed this with your machinist? 
What thread are you using? A commonly used thread would be a good idea, and M33 seems to be getting more and more common. Might be worth checking what register is used on Jet etc lathes so you can use standard accessories.

Finally, on the graduate, the inboard and outboard threads are the same, except outboard is left hand. Axminster offer a chuck threaded both L and R, so one chuck fits both sides without unscrewing in use. Might be another issue to discuss with your machinist.

K


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## CRAFTY (13 Jan 2017)

Thanks,I was supposed to ask him what the standard size is fir when I get my jaws/chuck and the likes,and git side tracked,I will ring him monday and find out,I doubt he started it yet,I hope,


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## Robbo3 (14 Jan 2017)

If you are using a 25mm shaft why don't you get the end threaded 1" x 8 TPI which is one of several standard sizes for woodturning lathes. Chucks come ready threaded in that size & thread adaptors are also readily available.
You may have to add some form of collar for the chuck to register against to maintain concentricity unless you go to a smaller thread eg 3/4" x 16 TPI


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## CRAFTY (14 Jan 2017)

Cheers robbo,was wondering yesterday when looking at shaft sizes,what is 3/4 by 16,is it 3/4 " thick ,sorry spot the noob,ha,can you tell me what figures are for what please,would be very nice to know since I nearly have a lathe now hehe,hang on I will check what tpi means lol,
Ok got it,I was rite in guessing thread per inch,just wasn't sure,so thanks for that,just learnes about tpi,pitch gauges,so now that I think of it i'm not sure what tpi the engineer is putting on my shaft,so I will ring him early monday morning and ask him to put the most common one on it I think,thanks great help.I will ask for 1" by 8 tpi like you said,cheers.


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## CHJ (14 Jan 2017)

CRAFTY":17mfe0j8 said:


> ........ I will ring him early monday morning and ask him to put the most common one on it I think,thanks great help.I will ask for 1" by 8 tpi like you said,cheers.




If you intend using standard turning faceplates and chucks then the spindle nose needs to be made to some very specific dimensions.

The thread is the means of retaining the faceplate or chuck and providing the drive but it is the Register diameter and depth that provides the accuracy of alignment, relying on thread alone is likely to allow movement under turning cut loads.

See Here


Have you read through the Safety and help Notes at the top of the section?


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## CRAFTY (15 Jan 2017)

CHJ":1n4ylsbr said:


> CRAFTY":1n4ylsbr said:
> 
> 
> > ........ I will ring him early monday morning and ask him to put the most common one on it I think,thanks great help.I will ask for 1" by 8 tpi like you said,cheers.
> ...



Ok cheers CHJ, I will have to play it by ear and see if he has started working on it yet,I have a feeling he has not ashe said he was flat out so thats a good signe anyway,once it holds any jaw/chuck/face plate that will do me,ill be honest I did jump the gun a little bit,but I had intended building the lathe out of timber and threaded rod/nuts n bolts,and just the other day decided to just get a shaft made up,should have done mor re search but hay,i'll make it work,it's a learning curve,so thanks for the input,no doubt I will have Q's hereand there in the future for my new hobby,thanks


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## CRAFTY (15 Jan 2017)

not much done today,but got most of the tool rest done,and realized half way through that i don't have as much a diameter as i expected,but only took me ten mins to wipe the tears,still have 14 1/2 " i could push it up to 16" if i really wanted,but my main aim was to make the djembe which will be 12" so i think i will leave it as is,also don't want to go to full height as it will be at it's weakest part of the tail stock,i am working on the pics now,cheers.


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## CRAFTY (15 Jan 2017)

nearly there,it is telling me there are to few characters? ok now were getting somewhere


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## CRAFTY (15 Jan 2017)

had to raise the housing to get 14 1/2 " diameter


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## CRAFTY (15 Jan 2017)

tail stock needs re inforsing


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## CRAFTY (15 Jan 2017)

slides well


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## CRAFTY (15 Jan 2017)

got a bit of a blow out with the forstner bit


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## Robbo3 (15 Jan 2017)

Coming along nicely. 

You might want to scallop the edges of your knobs - makes it much easier to get a grip.


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## CRAFTY (15 Jan 2017)

better one


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## CHJ (15 Jan 2017)

Sorry to say I think you will find that your lathe structure is not going to be anywhere near rigid or strong enough to enable the machining of something 14-1/2" diameter.

If you are considering hollowing out solid wood forms of the size you mentioned the forces involved with weight and the overhang will be far beyond the wooden headstock you have.

The forces involved are considerable and even my cast metal headstock,tool rest assembly and tailstock require machining with circumspect on something that large.


I would say you will be OK with spindle work and small diameter pieces say up to 100mm dia.


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## CRAFTY (15 Jan 2017)

Robbo3":2bgzns6t said:


> Coming along nicely.
> 
> You might want to scallop the edges of your knobs - makes it much easier to get a grip.



yeh thanks,might put some grooves on there,i will be making a special one for the tail stock wheel


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## CRAFTY (15 Jan 2017)

CHJ":2zas3mn9 said:


> Sorry to say I think you will find that your lathe structure is not going to be anywhere near rigid or strong enough to enable the machining of something 14-1/2" diameter.
> 
> If you are considering hollowing out solid wood forms of the size you mentioned the forces involved with weight and the overhang will be far beyond the wooden headstock you have.
> 
> ...



yeh i hear ya,the idea of putting a log on there has been nibbling away at me for a while now,what if i get a steel tailstock made up? i will be making 12" djembe,so the log,if i ever get my hands on one,will be cut down to 13" or so,and 22" long,


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## CHJ (15 Jan 2017)

CRAFTY":1e1jans0 said:


> ...the log,if i ever get my hands on one,will be cut down to 13" or so,and 22" long,




If it was Sycamore (a reasonably light wood) it would weigh about 36 Lbs per cu ft. if it is dried and you would have approx. 1.98 Cu ft. , If it's green it could be nearly double that weight.


See Here


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## n0legs (15 Jan 2017)

Crafty. Please don't think my following comments are criticism or in any way trying to put you down, that is not my point. Actually being a "backstreet bodger" myself I love seeing people have a go. But.
Seriously dude, are you really considering putting a log on your lathe and then hoping to turn it safely?? Come on bro' that's most likely going to end in tears.
There's an underlying trait/trend with the members here, and it is one of not wanting to see or hear of someone getting hurt. I'm absolutely with Chas(CHJ) on this. Your lathe will possibly be okay for a little spindle turning, but nothing of great diameter.
You know with this turning lark you're right in the line of fire if it goes **** up, right??
Have a little look at these links below. The people involved were far more experienced than I, and they ended up paying the ultimate price. 
Stay safe mate.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread. ... ing-Deaths

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread. ... -the-lathe


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## CRAFTY (15 Jan 2017)

n0legs":12mvszei said:


> Crafty. Please don't think my following comments are criticism or in any way trying to put you down, that is not my point. Actually being a "backstreet bodger" myself I love seeing people have a go. But.
> Seriously dude, are you really considering putting a log on your lathe and then hoping to turn it safely?? Come on bro' that's most likely going to end in tears.
> There's an underlying trait/trend with the members here, and it is one of not wanting to see or hear of someone getting hurt. I'm absolutely with Chas(CHJ) on this. Your lathe will possibly be okay for a little spindle turning, but nothing of great diameter.
> You know with this turning lark you're right in the line of fire if it goes **** up, right??
> ...


no your fine man,i'm here to listen and learn,i had my doubts well before i started the lathe,i will be just sticking with bowls and lamps for now anyway to see how it turns,no i don't want a log thrown at me or lose any limbs,so i won't put one on,cheers,


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## CRAFTY (16 Jan 2017)

got my shaft,it's 25mm thick with 20mm threads each end


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## CRAFTY (16 Jan 2017)

the disc sander will be on this end


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## selectortone (16 Jan 2017)

Hi Crafty, I'm following your build with great interest.

I would also like to weigh in with some words of caution (while not wishing to dampen your enthusiasm):

One of the most dangerous times with a fixed speed lathe is when you switch it on for the first time after mounting a new piece of wood in it.

If you have variable speed you can start from zero and slowly ramp the speed up and quickly back it off if the lathe starts vibrating. You don't have that luxury with fixed speed lathes. In that case, it's most important to be able to switch it off quickly, and the switch should be located where it doesn't cause you to stand in the line of fire (anywhere near in front of the lathe).

You would be surprised how painful it is to be struck on the head with even a small piece of wood coming loose. Ask me how I know!! A large log flying off a fixed speed lathe could have very serious consequences.


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## CRAFTY (16 Jan 2017)

selectortone":qmd9esxe said:


> Hi Crafty, I'm following your build with great interest.
> 
> I would also like to weigh in with some words of caution (while not wishing to dampen your enthusiasm):
> 
> ...


hay Selectortone,thanks for the advice it's much appreciated,the motor is 11500 rpm/220-240 volt,50-60hz,no way i'm running it without a speed reg,i won't be putting a log on,that idea does not fit for some reason,when i have the lathe in place and mounted to legs i will be looking at making up some style of protection bars,fixed to the wall of the shed,not sure what i will do yet i will look at it later,
man that's some collection of axes you got there,your first one the Isana archtop i like very much,would like a shot of it,as for the Blackbird,what can i say,looks flawless from here and i'm sure it sounds amazing,fair play,and first build =D> ,some groovey looking guitars there to,the size of the tremelo bar on them framus hehe,what are they like? i only finished my first guitar about 3 weeks ago,well nearly,i still need to order my pickups fron Don Mare,and just wire and finish,i'll throw a pic up since your into building.


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## CRAFTY (16 Jan 2017)

first build,telecaster


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## CRAFTY (16 Jan 2017)

tele


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## selectortone (16 Jan 2017)

Thanks Crafty!

That website is quite old now... I recently sold some of those guitars and bought myself a nice big modern lathe. 

I'm retired now and haven't built a guitar for a long time - too busy turning!


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## CRAFTY (16 Jan 2017)

so was just in the shed thinking about protection from the lathe,first idea is garden mesh,the good stuff,was thinking if i tie it from the bench to the roof and across the width of the lathe,cut holes out where needed and put foam on the edge of the hole,have a length of 2 by 1 across the bottom screwed to the bench and when i need to just lift it straight up and hook on the roof every time the lathe is off,that's my first,just untill i know this bad boy is safe,if it works well and not be a hindrance i might leave it there if it is comfy enough,also a face mask,and body armor,like the romans wore,
until my next light bulb comes on,any other ideas guys? feel free,cheers.


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## CRAFTY (16 Jan 2017)

another idea i have for the tail stock is,well basically another tail stock,since i have threaded bar because i changed my plan i might re enforce the tail stock by fixing timber behind the tail stock,and put the threaded bar through it,with a piece of timber on the end, and when i have my piece on the lathe then screw the other bar up against the back of the tail for extra strength,i'm gona go out of my way to make sure nothing bad happens,just on the off chance.


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## SVB (17 Jan 2017)

Crafty,

Is there a club or tech college in your area you could visit for some instruction? I think some introductory experience of what 'right' looks, sounds and feels like will really help you. 

If I was being cruel (to be kind!), you've asked questions here on building the lathe, how to make tools, about some ambitious (order of magnitude so imho) projects and most recently about the need for some sort of mesh formed glove box to be fabricated from garden fencing products. I really think a little hands on experience would help your project no end and also give me some peace of mind you're not going to get hurt (too badly) in the learning journey. 

Sorry if this seems too harsh, or if you already have this experience and my reply seems patronising, it is not intended to be, but there is a danger here of providing multiple advice on several, discrete, aspects of the overall undertaking which all assume a degree of experience to put together safely and with the success you seek. 

Brgds'
Simon.


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## CRAFTY (17 Jan 2017)

SVB":26vj9u1z said:


> Crafty,
> 
> Is there a club or tech college in your area you could visit for some instruction? I think some introductory experience of what 'right' looks, sounds and feels like will really help you.
> 
> ...


hay Simon,no you not being patronising at all,i need to hear certain things as it is leathal,and i appreciate the input very much,i am trying to find someone i know who has xp in this area to invite them round to take a look at it when finished,i don't even want to put anything on it until as you say gain some xp on turning,the mesh is a start of ideas to protect myself from piece coming of the lathe,at least from the start just in case,cheers.


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## Dalboy (17 Jan 2017)

I think as Simon stated find a club near you and chat to the turners there who I am sure will help with practical demonstration (you can't beat hands on experience) Roughly where are you in Ireland nearest town will do. There is a map at the bottom of THIS page for some clubs there or as they are called Chapters


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## CRAFTY (17 Jan 2017)

Dalboy":1wst4971 said:


> I think as Simon stated find a club near you and chat to the turners there who I am sure will help with practical demonstration (you can't beat hands on experience) Roughly where are you in Ireland nearest town will do. There is a map at the bottom of THIS page for some clubs there or as they are called Chapters


cheers pal,i do know a place i can go to,when i get a chance i will pop in and learn the rite way.thanks.


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## andy43 (17 Jan 2017)

CRAFTY":302mib57 said:


> got my shaft,it's 25mm thick with 20mm threads each end



Hi Crafty
I'm following this thread with interest, out of curiosity how is the spindle and the bearings locked in place, also what chuck are you using with 20mm thread?
atb Andy


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## CRAFTY (17 Jan 2017)

andy43":96tuk4ir said:


> CRAFTY":96tuk4ir said:
> 
> 
> > got my shaft,it's 25mm thick with 20mm threads each end
> ...


hello Andy,the plywood is doubled on each side , routed the outer side to the thickness of the bearing,the back is smaller so the bearing can't be pushed backward,same on other side,then i will have nuts on the threaded bar so it can't shift the other way,when i am all happy it's finished and spindle lined up to tail,i might glue in the bearings,the shaft is jammed into the bearings,took me maybe 15-20 mins to tap one into position,as for a chuck,i had been told about 1" by 8 tpi,and i rang the engineer to have the shaft changed,could not get him,when i did the shaft was made so i will have to find a chuck to suit.


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## SVB (17 Jan 2017)

In terms of a piece coming off the lathe, I would suggest a basic full face visor like this one will be fine:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-fm952-safety-visor-500080

I think the contrivance your describing with mesh etc is likely to get in your way, catch the end of a tool handle and actually present a bigger hazard than an unguarded machine. 

I'd suggest start small 1" - 1.5" square by 8" - 10" long and go from there. That way the stored energy will only be modest and well within the capability of a face visor if it goes wrong!

After that, as you build confidence in the machine and develop your own ability, go from there. Also, I suggest spindle work first rather than a bowl. That way the work is 'trapped' between the centres where as a bowl will require removal of the tailstock to turn the inner of course. 

Best of luck,

Simon


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## CRAFTY (17 Jan 2017)

SVB":2k7vvtit said:


> In terms of a piece coming off the lathe, I would suggest a basic full face visor like this one will be fine:
> 
> http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-fm952-safety-visor-500080
> 
> ...


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## SVB (17 Jan 2017)

CRAFTY":1faatng9 said:


> andy43":1faatng9 said:
> 
> 
> > CRAFTY":1faatng9 said:
> ...



Depending on the thread pitch, you may be into adaptor or plain bore machined territory I'm afraid, as M20 is not common in Woodturning and iirc standard M20 course is 2.5mm pitch. This table is pretty comprehensive as a reference. 

http://www.toolpost.co.uk/pages/Chucks___Accessories/Spindle_Data/spindle_data.html

I suggest you do some spindle work first while you build confidence to save too much outlay in the first instance unless your mate works for beers!

S


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## CRAFTY (18 Jan 2017)

not bad for eye ball'n as i have no pull drill,yet.


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## CRAFTY (18 Jan 2017)

there we go,little bit of adjustment on the tail,and need to move the head stock a wee bit,and should be rite.


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## CRAFTY (18 Jan 2017)

:mrgreen:


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## CRAFTY (18 Jan 2017)

gears are on,not done yet,i put these on the other motor to turn them,this motor is not as powerful as the other,i don't think there is enough power in it for turning,the chisel wasn't taking off enough timber,could not being powerful enough heve been my problem there?anyway when i get the speed control i will put the belt grooves on both sets with the other motor.


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## CRAFTY (18 Jan 2017)

crappy pic sorry,anyway


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## CRAFTY (20 Jan 2017)

so the lathe build may be short lived,being a lethal weapon it is not worth it,i just like building things really,but,it will be put to the test when i get a speed control,i will try it,i am curious to find out how the tail and head stock spin together,the lathe will be surrounded to prevent the piece from hurting me,give it a spin at slow speed,then call it a day,at least i will still have a 12" disc sander,thanks for helpful advise,if i had not joined here and had a lesson learned about the true nature of the beast,well,you guys know,anyway,thanks for knocking sense into me. (hammer) NEXT BUILD- JET ENGINE- made from wenge. :mrgreen:


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## Keithie (20 Jan 2017)

Hey Crafty ... I think that maybe the face visor thing might not be enough. It's possible though that there may be some appropriate safety gear you could use that might give appropriate protection if/when you try out the lathe.

Obviously I'm not qualified to say if it will be safe, but a TALOS system might be worth a look..

http://www.military.com/daily-news/2015 ... -suit.html


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## CRAFTY (20 Jan 2017)

Keithie":10o19zao said:


> Hey Crafty ... I think that maybe the face visor thing might not be enough. It's possible though that there may be some appropriate safety gear you could use that might give appropriate protection if/when you try out the lathe.
> 
> Obviously I'm not qualified to say if it will be safe, but a TALOS system might be worth a look..
> 
> http://www.military.com/daily-news/2015 ... -suit.html


cheers kaithie,i will find something or make up a clothing jig,just in case,


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