# Plunge Router on a router table



## markblue777 (13 Dec 2013)

Hi all, not sure if this is the correct section to post this in but it seems the most logical place to do it.

So I have a plunge router and mount it to a router table, obviously the adjustment is a little tricky (without using any sort of lift, which I cant use as the table I have sits on a bench and does not have much clearance) 

I will look at building my own router table when I have my shop built but for now need to rely on the table. 

I just have a cheap router (Xtreme 1200W Router from homebase) and from the image attached you can see the depth stop bar and the 3 stage stopper at the bottom

for my little modification I took the bar out and the stopper steel rod out and I then cut to length some M5 steel rod and put it through the depth stop holder and screwed it into the one of the sockets on the 3 stage stopper and I have a nut fixed about the depth stop holder that I can adjust to move the height of the bit.

My question is can anyone think of a faster way I could make this adjustment as by doing it with a spanner is very laborious and I feel that some sort of crank should be able to do it, but I just cannot think how. (maybe taking out the red screw thing from the front and replacing it with some sort of winding screw that would catch on the rod's thread to adjust it up and down? but if so what is one of them screws called and do they even exists (the idea just come to me as I was typing this).

I know this is a bit of a strange one but hopefully someone can help me out.

Cheers
Mark


----------



## MickCheese (13 Dec 2013)

Sorry but I am lost. 

I cannot see from the photo what you have done so cannot advise on how to improve it. 

Mick


----------



## markblue777 (13 Dec 2013)

Hi Mick,
In the image I was just trying to show what was there already. When I get home from work I will upload an actual image of what I have done so hopefully it will be a bit clearer.

Cheers
Mark


----------



## mailee (13 Dec 2013)

Hi Mark. i think I understand what you are talking about. I did a similar thing with my Hitachi router in my table but used a length of 8mm rod. I got an old 8mm deep box spanner and fitted a knob to one end to adjust the router up and down. This method could be modified by adding a crank to the end instead of a knob of course. When not in use the 'spanner' lies in the bottom of my table ready for use. HTH. :wink:


----------



## markblue777 (13 Dec 2013)

Hi,
So attached is a pictures (the two nuts are just holding a bit of plastic to point to the depth guide, it can be removed if it gets in the way of making it easier to adjust).

any ideas people?

mailee do you think you could get a photo so i can see what you have done with yours please?

cheers
Mark


----------



## mseries (13 Dec 2013)

take a look at the wealdon site and their tips and tricks page. Ron Fox shows you how to make a depth adjuster. It's essentially the same as maillee has done (and you) but he's fixed the bottom nut into the end of the box spanner so that the whole thing comes off in one piece when unscrewed. Or look at the Trend and Dewalt fine height adjusters, they are the same.

An alternative to you design which I an considering for my cheap router is a longer screw rod, long enough to clear the top of the router. slip a shorter tube over to rest on the stop and leave some thread exposed. Then use a knob to plunge the router down when turned


----------



## markblue777 (14 Dec 2013)

Hey mseries,
thanks a lot quite a few helpful tips on there.
Regards
Mark


----------



## MickCheese (14 Dec 2013)

Ah, I see now.

As the original question was how to automate the winding process then the only thing I can see to do is fix some sort of cordless screwdriver to the top nut to wind it down. That would need a very deep socket and maybe a flexible shaft.

Mick


----------



## Steve Maskery (15 Dec 2013)

The problem you have has already been solved pretty much perfectly.
The Router Raizer from WoodWorkers Workshop, now part of Peter Sefton's establishment, has nailed this very well indeed. The downside is the price, it is not a cheap piece of kit. But it is superb and you will not find a better aftermarket solution.
http://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/Router ... izer-RZ100
Steve


----------



## markblue777 (16 Dec 2013)

Hmm think I will stay with the cheaper alternative for now XD.
Cheers
Mark


----------



## rafezetter (18 Dec 2013)

Ok how's about this... it might need some size adjustments but here's the general idea

#1 Find out what size bolt will fit into the hole where the depth bar lock screw was.
#2 Buy 2 plastic / metal cogs with many teeth. (more = finer adjustment)
#3 Get an oblong block of hardwood.
#4 Buy 1 of these tee nuts M5 size, the other; the size needed from step 1 : http://www.screwfix.com/p/4-pronged-tee ... f-10/79359 - (ebay etc)
#5 Drill hole in endgrain of wood (longer than half the length of the bolt) drive in tee nut, then screw in step 1 size bolt end into the tee nut, cut bolt head off and thread into depth stop lock screw hole, wind wood onto it until it sits horizontally and flush with the metal. 
#6 get a straight ruler and place the end onto one of the depth stop screws in the base and align it vertically so you get a plumb line where you need to drill a hole in the wood.
#7 drill hole for m5 threaded bar into top face of wood block and drop the bar through until it meets the top of the depth stop adjuster area and wind the end of the M5 bar into one of the sockets in the base as depicted in the OP. (you might have to make an offset block if it won't go in, in which case buy another M5 tee nut and put it in the block *on the bottom side* so that the threaded bar goes into the stem from the upper side first - this will ensure all the forces of the router springs, which are always trying to lift it back up, are pulling the tee nut into the wood rather that trying to pull it out from the top side.

#8 Drill hole in plastic cog and fit M5 tee nut into the centre. (if metal cog then weld a m5 nut on)
#7 Thread this onto the M5 bar, so that the stem is upside down (cog closest to wood) if you need to, cut the wood so that the cog teeth are just overhanging the free side.
#8 Fit the other cog in the end of the wood vertically so that the cog teeth mesh up with the horizontal one, use a washer so it spins freely.
#9 Drill hole into the face side of the cog offcentre so you can glue in a dowel of some sort. (small turning handle)

The block is obviously a spacer for the cogs and with luck you should be able to spin the cogs to wind the router up and down with ease.

And now I've thought of that... imma see if it'll work on the router I bought for my router table... 

Edit: to be fair that was just channeling a bit of the late great Polish Niki (an amazing lateral thinker for woodworking jigs and tips - there's a sticky for his stuff) + some Matthias Wandel (another brilliant woodworking homemade gizmo guy - look for his youtube stuff).

Edited 22/1/14 so it made sense!


----------

