# High Gloss finish info required!



## Easy (3 Oct 2013)

Hi, my name's Easy, 'cos I wanted something 'easy' to remember! Anyhoo, long time listener, first time caller,

I'm refurbishing (Upcycling?) an old pine dresser for my wife. I want to go a bit 'glam' and a bit 'hollywood', so I'm going for a piano black high gloss finish. I want it to be as smooth as possible, as glasslike as i can get it.

I realise the top and the drawer fronts are the most important parts here, so here's what i have done so far...

oh, and as soon as i can, i will put pics on, like a proper 'wip'...

I have sanded down all surfaces and given it two coats of grey primer, sanding in between coats and after.

now, what paint/finishing product do I need, and what process should I follow to achieve the best 'shine'?


grateful for all replies.

cheers,


easy.


----------



## Chrispy (3 Oct 2013)

Well you may have chosen as easy name but you have picked the most difficult finish to achive.
First off pine not good, to much texture and to soft, second high gloss will show and highlight every single mark,scratch, dent, knot everything, thirdly black will show it up even more.
I wish you all the luck in the world with your project, you will need it.


----------



## rdesign (3 Oct 2013)

prim first then sand with 320 grit paper
then prim again and sand again then use a car body filler on any part thats not perfect, then san again to 320 so its all smooth and flat worry mostly about drawer fronts top then sides. 
use a laquer gloss to finish might dull the shine abit can be polished buffed up a bit! 

not only done this once got ok results maybe some one else has better advice 

regards Rick


----------



## Easy (3 Oct 2013)

Thanks for the answers!

I know it's going to be difficult, but that's ok, I just want to get the best finish possible.

I will try the lacquer gloss paint. I assume it's available in B&Q?

cheers,

easy


----------



## Mike.S (4 Oct 2013)

Haven't (yet) tried it myself but this guide may be useful, though it's based on MDF rather than pine.


----------



## nathandavies (4 Oct 2013)

We did a bar in Chigwell in high gloss piano black

















it was made from mdf, we did a huge amount of finishing, as much as you could see whilst the mdf was still raw, but I believe the painter did a huge amount of finishing work too, once he got a couple of coats of paint on. he did an amazing job.

i'll find out what paint he used, but it won't be b&q. it'll be from a paint supplier, but non trade can normally walk in and get the stuff.

preparation is key, everything will show up with a finish like this, but if done right it's a bold look.


----------



## Mar_mite (4 Oct 2013)

A client wanted high black gloss on a little mdf unit recently. I used black spray paint in a rattle can over a grey primer. Then went over it with a clear high gloss. Also in a rattle can. I had to seal the cut edges with mdf sealer. It was easy really. Good finish. Not as good as that bar though nathandavies. Impressive.


----------



## mailee (4 Oct 2013)

The forum post Mike linked to is the correct way to do it. This is one I completed a few weeks ago.



Admittedly it is MDF and not pine but this was achieved using the same system but using commercial paint. Not sure how good you would be able to get pine as has been stated above. HTH. :wink:


----------



## nathandavies (4 Oct 2013)

nice work mailee slatted mdf? or built up molded and sanded?


----------



## hazel (4 Oct 2013)

not sure if this is advisable as not something had heard of being done before I saw it done, but at work if we are doing a high gloss finish we do all the sanding and then use wire wool, I have concerns that it may not be good for the wood but it appears to work and noone else there seems to be concerned about it. So we start with the corser sandpaper and work down to a fine one then use wirewool at the end. It leaves your hands filthy but it seems to work on smoothing the wood before the finish is applied


----------



## mailee (4 Oct 2013)

Thanks, it is built up and sanded to shape. I am not keen on using the bendy MDF. I have used a similar system on wood Hazel but wouldn't use it on any oak, better to use Scotchbrite pads on that. :wink:


----------

