# Kitchen oak worktops no longer absorbing oil???



## alex200274 (25 Dec 2009)

Hello, we have some solid oak worktops in our kitchen. We had them installed about 3 years ago and upon installation I oiled them with an oil that came from Howden’s kitchen (was branded and didn’t say what type of oil it was). At the time the oil from Howden’s left a very nice silky finish to the tops. 

About a year later I had to re-oil the tops and there were a few scratches, so I sanded them down and this time used Ruskin’s Danish Oil. All was well, but last year I sanded the tops down again prior to oiling and I noticed the last time the oil absorption was near to none. 
I’m wondering if I have sanded the tops down maybe a few times to many and perhaps the grain has sealed up to prevent any oil from being absorbed?

- sanded them down with 120 Grit.
- When applying oil each coat takes approximately 3-4 days to dry, where as previously the worktops would soak up the oil in less than a day and would dry with a sheen.
-Oil that I have used – Ruskin’s Danish Oil, Tung Oil
- The tops are no longer silky or has any sheen (they look very dry in appearance)
- Stains are obvious and water marks seem to appear to easily. 
- I last used Tung Oil but I know this oil takes longer to dry but my assumption is the surface due to the sanding perhaps has formed a barrier to any absorption.

*Questions:*

- How can I rectify the surface to allow the oil to penetrate the wood? Do I have to sand against the grain to open up the pours?

- Does oak change with age and becomes less absorbent when oiling?

- Is there any other form of surface protection if I have damaged the surface due to perhaps over sanding (I’m looking at trying to get another 3 years life out them).

- Any advice on opening up the pours to allow oil absorption?
Many Thanks


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## Philly (25 Dec 2009)

Alex
The oil you applied previously has now cured so any further coats won't penetrate so deeply. Nothing to worry about - just sand back and apply more oil, wiping off any excess after 10 minutes. It's not a problem - you just need to renew the surface.
Hope this helps,
Philly


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## Graeme (4 Jan 2010)

You may want to thin down the first coat after sanding to help penetration, but otherwise its as Phil says.

Alas Danish oil is not imperviouse to wear and liquids will get through in time. You could consider other type of finish, but that will open up a much bigger debate and may be hard to do now.


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