# SoI'm buying me a migwelder from screwfix



## RussianRouter (23 Jul 2010)

The Miggy is Gasless ie just a wire feed.

Iintend to weld 3mm wall thickness mild steel box section,the Ampeage is supposed to be from 60 to 90 amp I've been told this should be efficient enough for that thickness and up to 5mm.

Anyone have a miggy and got any tips for this blokey thats gonna try and aquire another arrow for his bow. :wink:


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## Hitch (23 Jul 2010)

90A for 5mm...... :lol: :lol: 

Get yourself joined up over here, and a read through of the tutorials... 8) 

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/


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## andycktm (23 Jul 2010)

Thank **** i've been holding my breath for you to reply Hitch ,nearly suffocated 


My opinon mig is gas or use a stick welder.


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## chipchaser (24 Jul 2010)

Many years ago, before MIG became affordable for DIY users I went to evening classes to learn Oxy-Acetylene and Arc welding. I liked welding with a flame but never really took to Arc welding. Later I needed to reinforce the front suspension on a trials car I used to run and bought myself a SIP Migmate DP150. I found this easy to use with the gasless wire for mild steel and also, using gas, for aluminium. My chassis welds stayed solid so the gasless wire obviously worked ok.

Graham


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## RussianRouter (24 Jul 2010)

Hitch":2b22hmcv said:


> 90A for 5mm...... :lol: :lol:
> 
> Get yourself joined up over here, and a read through of the tutorials... 8)
> 
> http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/



Well pray do tell...will 90 amp suffice to do 5mm mild steel?


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## jasonB (24 Jul 2010)

RussianRouter":r3ytnqwf said:


> Hitch":r3ytnqwf said:
> 
> 
> > 90A for 5mm...... :lol: :lol:
> ...



Go to his site, look at tutorials, enter your machine size and see that it will do 2.3mm steel  

Jason


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## RussianRouter (24 Jul 2010)

I noticed in the tutorial about mig welding that it doesn't cover corner welding?

In an arc weld the rod can reach the corner quite easily but how does the mig weld achieve this because if the wire feeds tip is wider than that of an arc rod.


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## Shane (24 Jul 2010)

chipchaser":1dful4gi said:


> bought myself a SIP Migmate DP150. I found this easy to use with the gasless wire for mild steel and also, using gas, for aluminium. My chassis welds stayed solid so the gasless wire obviously worked ok.
> 
> Graham



I've got the SIP 130 I use for my bike mods, it has been good apart from the wire feed rollers needing modifcation.



RussianRouter":1dful4gi said:


> I noticed in the tutorial about mig welding that it doesn't cover corner welding?
> 
> In an arc weld the rod can reach the corner quite easily but how does the mig weld achieve this because if the wire feeds tip is wider than that of an arc rod.



The welding wire will poke out further than the tip and shroud so will reach the internal corner no probs


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## RussianRouter (24 Jul 2010)

Shane":2x7ylct3 said:


> The welding wire will poke out further than the tip and shroud so will reach the internal corner no probs



How do Shane.

Is that automatic o do I have to set the feed fo a longer wire protude?


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## Shane (24 Jul 2010)

you press the button and the wire feeds as much as you need until you release the button again.

I usually allow approx 10mm protrusion from the tip, much less and it'll glue itself to the tip which is a pain in the pineapple :lol: much more and you won't be able to control it a so well, and with a gas mig the gas wont be doing it's job.


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## RussianRouter (24 Jul 2010)

I'm getting a normal welders mask...would these replacement lenses work on the normal helmet if I can get them to fit?

These lenses ae supposed to go dark when you strike an arc...beats paying £50 sobs for a solar helmet.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+T ... 666/p32258


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## Shane (24 Jul 2010)

I would have thought that they are only designed to work with a solar mask

£50 is not a lot for a solar mask, and I wouldn't want to weld without mine


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## jasonB (24 Jul 2010)

I think they are just the lens that goes in front of teh auto darkening part to protect it fron sparks. As Shane says an auto mask makes things so much easier.

Jason


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## RussianRouter (24 Jul 2010)

jasonB":1izws6kr said:


> I think they are just the lens that goes in front of teh auto darkening part to protect it fron sparks. As Shane says an auto mask makes things so much easier.
> 
> Jason



Hah,yeah,your probably right.  

The things they have nowadays for welding...is it worth buying this mag fo welding box section?looks as if it makes the job easier and keep the box section true 90
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+T ... 666/p30774


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## RussianRouter (24 Jul 2010)

Just had a thought....what about wearing a pair of reactolites under the mask. :lol:


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## Shane (24 Jul 2010)

RussianRouter":slq9x184 said:


> Just had a thought....what about wearing a pair of reactolites under the mask. :lol:



Thats fine if you want to do a stevie wonder impression 8) :lol:


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## Hitch (24 Jul 2010)

They are replacment cover lenses as mentioned. They protect the delicate LCD lense itself. Sparks stick to glass, but not the plastic.

Im not sure on your budget, but i think the Clarke welders are held with higher regard to that of the SIP by most diy users.

Corners, the wire sticks out of the tip, as mentioned about 10mm is ideal on small machines. The shroud on them is only about 12-13mm diameter, and tapered, so they go into corners pretty well.

Mask, auto darkeners are good, but as you say £50+

At least get yourself a head mounted one as opposed to a hand held.

Magnetic clamp.... dont bother, you could make up something more use out of a few bits of wood.

90a.... 2mm sheet, 3mm at a push, There is ways round it to increase penetration, such as welding uphand of on an incline, joint preperation etc...


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## RussianRouter (24 Jul 2010)

Broke the bank and went for this one....
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/30030/Pow ... elder-150A

Hopefully it'l lcome monday free delivery as well.


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## Eric The Viking (24 Jul 2010)

RussianRouter":2awuinle said:


> Broke the bank and went for this one....
> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/30030/Pow ... elder-150A
> 
> Hopefully it'l lcome monday free delivery as well.



I can't speak to that specific welder but some thoughts from a rank amateur:

(1) Argoshield (argon-CO2 mix) type gases work by far the best on normal mild steel. Pure CO2 spits and leaves rougher welds. Pure argon for stainless. I've not tried gasless, but I'm told it leaves flux residues and needs more cleanup afterwards. You can 'help' welds a bit in thick material by pre-heating with propane or MAPP gas (I've done this with mixed results on cast iron - not officially MIG-weldable!).

(2) Practice a lot. Mark the settings you use on the gas regulator, the current and the wire feed, so when you find a sweet spot, you can keep it.

(3) if you don't have a small angle grinder it's really helpful. Grind through your first practice welds and see if they're good.

(4) There's a Haynes manual on welding: it's pretty good and not expensive. THe on-line tutorials may be better, as you can see better what's happening.

(5) I struggled with a conventional welding shield/helmet for years. The biggest problem is you can't see anything just before you strike the arc, and if I had a pound for every cockup arising... Occasionally, you get out of sync when setting something up and strike an arc with the helmet up: trust me, arc-eye is not at all fun! I got an auto-darkening one for about 65 quid a couple of years ago and never looked back 8).

(6) You may tan well (I don't), but trust me (again!), welding 'sunburn' is truly nasty: wear a cotton boiler suit (not synthetic!), with cuffs and a high collar. Make sure other people (especially kids) can't accidentally happen on you welding and 'catch a flash' of the arc. It can be damaging to the eye over quite a distance.

(7) Strong magnets are excellent for holding plates together for tack welding. Mole grips are also brilliant, 

( 8 ) I've wrecked the top of my w/w bench with spatter (the anti spatter sprays work!). Hardboard, I found out too late, is a good cover (shiny side up). Beware hot stuff and wood finishes - arcs cause vapours to explode! 

(9) you can do thick material by cutting V-shaped edges for a butt-join and filling with weld. You also need to clean surfaces well - any rust causes lots of spatter and useless welds, and galvanizing causes very nasty toxic fumes (you can grind it off beforehand though).

(10) For good quality welds in thicker material you need a good mains supply. I recently fitted a 16A plug to mine (which is an old SIP, nominally 120A ), wired straight back to the garage consumer unit, which itself has abnormally heavy cable supplying it: the weld quality improved markedly. There is a high surge current when the arc is struck, which tails off a bit whilst you're drawing a bead, and that initial demand is what you have to allow for. If you must use 13A plugs (sometimes it can't be avoided), don't use extension leads - each plug+socket includes at least one fuse, which is essentially a resistor.

(11) yours may have it already, but if not, a PTFE torch liner really does work well. Again, mine improved markedly when I changed it. Keep a sharp medium file handy, as I often 'weld' the wire to the copper torch tip, and filing off the end usually frees it up (it's worth having a handful of copper tips handy too, as you'll get through quite a few).

Sorry - way too much rambling. I hope some of it is helpful.

E.

PS: I'm told the metallurgy of cast iron means it would weld better with S/S wire in argon and a lot of preheating. I haven't tried this, but results with ordinary wire are very poor.


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## RussianRouter (24 Jul 2010)

Allo,Eric(Said that in Germen as it sounds good) :wink: 

I have had a go at arc welding in the past and believe me flashback is not a nice thing to encounter,eyes were like having a hair strand trapped at the back of the socket and you couldn't rub it otherwise it made it worse.


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## richburrow (24 Jul 2010)

Small world
I have just bought this today
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/135te-turbo-mig-welder

The info that you have been posting is very interesting and helpful, thank you all.

Good luck RR I am a total novice so will pm you as I get going, get ready for silly questions.

The site that was linked earlier is an amazing resource!!!!!

I will keep you posted with my adventures


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## RussianRouter (24 Jul 2010)

WellI might as well pay an extra £15 sobs and get this helmet rather than the normal type,Iknow what its like trying to strike an arc :shock: 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Auto-darkening-We ... 35aa278d90


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## Hitch (25 Jul 2010)

I have never used one of the very low budget headshieds, but i hear quality and lifespan of the auto lense itself is questionable :!:


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## RussianRouter (25 Jul 2010)

You're probaly right,Hitch

Can't see tham not working as the elf&safty would have them stopped being sold?


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## Shane (25 Jul 2010)

I've got one of the cheap masks, not had a problem with it yet, and I've had it for a few years now


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## dickm (25 Jul 2010)

Not sure about those magnetic positioners - I've got one, and while it's a lot quicker and easier than making up "proper" jigs, the problem using it with the Mig is that if the magnets are near the weld line, they pull the arc towards themselves, which is a bit confusing  

Agree about Argoshield compared to CO2, but for the occasional user, BOC's cylinder rental is outright extortion. The b*****ds have effectively got a legal monopoly. So much for ideas about competition driving down costs.......


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## RussianRouter (25 Jul 2010)

Shane":3qdo2mv9 said:


> I've got one of the cheap masks, not had a problem with it yet, and I've had it for a few years now



Do you still know where you got it from,Shane?

There's two on ebay ones higher than tothe in price by only £2 but not decided which to go for?

Thanks.


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## RussianRouter (25 Jul 2010)

dickm":3yqo6jv4 said:


> Not sure about those magnetic positioners - I've got one, and while it's a lot quicker and easier than making up "proper" jigs, the problem using it with the Mig is that if the magnets are near the weld line, they pull the arc towards themselves, which is a bit confusing



I'm under the impression that they're only used to get a tack/weld on the piece to aid in the start of the weld ie if we have a box section standing upright,place the magnet at the otherside of the box section and tack or weld the opposite side to the mag and then take the mag away to continue the other 3 sides,maybe thats how its used?

I'll get one,as it sure does save a lot of messing about with making jigs up.


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## Shane (25 Jul 2010)

RussianRouter":hrt2moxh said:


> Do you still know where you got it from,Shane?
> 
> There's two on ebay ones higher than tothe in price by only £2 but not decided which to go for?
> 
> Thanks.



There's over 300 auto-darkening welding helmets to choose from on that auction sight, I can't remember the seller id cos it was so long ago. Mine came from the states when the cheaper ones first became available cos there wasn't any other sellers on there at the time


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## Eric The Viking (25 Jul 2010)

RussianRouter":3uqzjv3w said:


> I'm under the impression that they're only used to get a tack/weld on the piece to aid in the start of the weld



Quite so. 

You only need a rare earth magnet and a couple of steel plates on the poles - they don't even need to be stuck together. The work goes across the plates, so that it bridges north and south poles. I use magnets from disk drives as they're very strong, and free.

Once you've tack welded, the magnets are unnecessary.


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## adidat (25 Jul 2010)

oh i thought u said you were going. more lies and bullsh*t


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## Mike.C (25 Jul 2010)

adidat":m93uu0pr said:


> oh i thought u said you were going. more lies and bullsh*t



Come on now lets play nice.

Cheers

Mike


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