# New Project



## GrahamIreland (11 May 2017)

I was asked to make an outdoor seating booth for a restaurant.
I have drawings here, but was wondering where to use angle - where to use box.(reason for last post)

Just thought the box section is more comfortable on edges., and to sit against.
Any feedback on design - layout appreciated.

Graham


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## GrahamIreland (11 May 2017)

Its 130cm wide, by 1.75M tall.

Was thinking 40mm box section or angle.
For panelling, would it be strong enough to screw in wood underneath.

And should I powder coat - or could I sand, prime and spray myself...


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## flh801978 (11 May 2017)

I would use box section throughout
I would redesign to make a lift up lidded box in the seat to put cushions in or whatever else client wants
Powder coat all the way
How many are you making?


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## GrahamIreland (11 May 2017)

Just the one.

Thats a good idea for lift up. Keep it square in shape so.

How would you screw wood to box section? Overlay, or inset the wood...


Am waiting on quote for powder coating. There is one company in Cork, and their prices are very high.


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## sunnybob (11 May 2017)

The thing with restaurant seats (and I'm an expert with restaurant seats and back pain), is how often does the owner want to move people on?
Uncomfortable seats means more turnover, but less revenue per customer.
Comfortable seats mean theres a second round of drinks and dessert coming.
Your first sketch would be very uncomfortable with those angles in the way of elbows. I doubt I would sit on it unless I could sit dead centre.
Your third sketch would also move people on because the straight back is like a church pew, and how often have you wanted to linger in a pew?

The second sketch looks comfortable enough to stay and have a meal and more. 

Powder coating is best, but offer two different prices; hammerite, or powder coat.


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## GrahamIreland (11 May 2017)

Thanks for input Bob, very valuable.


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## Inspector (11 May 2017)

I would put the front cross bar under and behind the wood seat so the back of the legs don't touch metal. Skin on metal is either cold or hot and neither is any fun for customers in shorts or mini skirts.

Pete


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## GrahamIreland (11 May 2017)

Makes sense Pete,
I've raised the wood above the metal on both seat and base.
Maybe a lats idea could be nice too.


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## Inspector (11 May 2017)

Yer gittn there. Much better. Now make a mockup of wood so you can test seat angles, sizes, heights, etc., until it feels good to sit on. Only needs to be one butt wide. 

Pete


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## GrahamIreland (11 May 2017)

Ok, much appreciated.


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## GrahamIreland (29 May 2017)

Well, starting this this week. They went with amended design above. 
Going to powder coat as well.

So ordering 40mm x 40mm x 2.5mm box section.
And Weldmesh 1"" spaced boxes.
Casters 100mm swivel & Braked(2 or 4?)

Only questions now, what side do I attach the weld mesh to, as I'm using box section, not angle.
Also going to split it in two parts and bolt together, so easier to transport to powder coaters and assemble later.

Any feedback appreciated 
Graham


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## GrahamIreland (29 May 2017)

prob go with these rubber casters...
https://www.slingsby.ie/Wheels-Castors/ ... 114517.htm


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## t8hants (29 May 2017)

Is there any cushioning on these seats? As I wouldn't go anywhere near a restaurant that was offering me industrial seating as a choice.
I would put the weldmesh to the back of the frame and trap it with a covering flat bar tapped into box by 5mm screws.
Also I would have thought weldmesh may have a tendency to pull hair if it was lent against.


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## GrahamIreland (29 May 2017)

Yes, It is going to be upholstered
Iroko wood. 
Could I not just tack the weld mesh to the back?


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## t8hants (29 May 2017)

You could tack the weldmesh, but there is a risk people especially children will put their hands around the back and we all know how sharp the cut edges of weldmesh can be. 
All raw edges and tacks must be sanded down so they offer no risk of cut or graze to fingers that should not be there, but will be.
You will also be aware how quickly powder coated weldmesh starts to peel if its out in the weather, not my choice of backing, but the customer is always right even when he's wrong.


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## GrahamIreland (4 Jun 2017)

Well it's going well so far, pic attached.

Powder coater said it should be galvanised first if it's going outdoors.
Problem is I believe it would leave a right mess on weldmesh.
So, should i attach galvanised weld mesh to the frame, after it's been dipped or weld it on and clean up afterwards?


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## GrahamIreland (22 Jun 2017)

Turned out well. Client happy.


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## sunnybob (22 Jun 2017)

good job. That back panel seems to be two different woods. Is it all iroku?


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## GrahamIreland (24 Jun 2017)

Hi Bob, yes all iroko. I just like seeing a bit of variation in the wood so I choose those boards.

Could you explain the teak, mahogany, iroko species to me please?

Local woodworker was calling this teak.

Graham


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## sunnybob (24 Jun 2017)

Here ya go;
http://www.wood-database.com/

No way is that teak. Its much too light, and its way too expensive for that kind of job.
I can get iroku locally, but I havent seen that variation in colour on it.

I have two very large stair treads of teak, taken from a London office block 40 years ago. Just waiting for a project worth using it on.


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## deema (24 Jun 2017)

Powder coating using a shot blast to achieve the required Rz and zinc rich primer powder pre treatment can with a properly run system and decent powder achieve a minimum of 2500 hrs salt spray test. It may not sound a lot.....but under body parts for passenger cars have typically a 750hr salt spray requirement! A lot of powder coating won't reach 100hrs (10hours being typical) as the process may look simple but it takes an awful lot of knowledge to get it to operate correctly.

Shot blast, zinc phosphate primer with electrophoretic (EP) and powder on top is a better process, and achives when done correctly similar salt spray test hours (2,500hrs). There are a few plants in the Uk that can do this. 

The last option that can achieve excellent results is again shot blast, zinc phosphate pretreatment and then put through an A plant with powder again on top. The powder coating provides UV protection.

I would never weld galvanised parts without special extraction gear, the fumes are toxic. 

Looks a great product, well done.


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