# Competition entry WIP - making the most of what you have



## Paul Chapman (17 Jun 2007)

As Rob and Mike have been steaming ahead with WIP pictures of their entries, I thought I'd better pull my finger out and post of few of my pictures. 

My entry is going to be a round table in oak. I don't have any machinery, so most of my work will be done with hand tools, with the use of a couple of hand-held power tools when it's better to use them.

This is how far I've got







That pile of oak started off as a few rough sawn boards (no pictures I'm afraid) and I've been experimenting with ways of reducing it to size with hand tools in the most efficient way. I started off ripping the boards in half along their length as I want to alternate the boards and joint them. For this I used my old Elu hand-held circular saw






I don't have any pictures of this process (it was done before the competition was announced) but I clamped the wood to the bench using Veritas bench dogs and rigged up a board to guide the saw's large MDF sub-base. Because of the thickness of the boards I cut them through from both sides.

Planing rough sawn oak is quite hard work :shock: :shock: so I've been experimenting with various planes and setting them up to plane sawn hard wood effectively. Planes set up for finishing work are simply no good for dealing with rough, sawn wood. I now use these three planes for initial preparation work






They are my old Records #7 and #5 1/2 and my "Frampton Special" which I bought from Alf. They all have a fairly steep camber ground on the blades like this






So they are working like scrub/jack planes. The mouths of the Records have been opened up a bit so they easily pass thick shavings. The blades are the original Record thin blades with the original cap irons and the blade on the "Frampton Special" (which does not have a cap iron) is quite thin. Despite this they work well (scrub-type planes normally have thick blades) and have been dealing with reducing the oak to a presentable state quite effectively.

To get a steep bevel on the blades, I ground them on my old Elu grinder. This is a high-speed grinder which I hate using on blades as it can easily burn them (must get a Tormek when I can afford it). I rigged up a piece of MDF to swivel on the blade grinding holder, and clamped the blades to that






This is my set-up for honing. For steep cambers I've recently started using the Veritas Mk 2 guide with cambered roller. Once you get used to it, I find it very fast and it produces a very good result.






I then polish the blades on a leather strop with jewellers rouge and Vaseline






You can see your face in the blades when I've finished with them  

On the Records I set the cap irons a fair way back from the edge as you don't really need a cap iron for scrub type work






Still a long way to go - I'll post more pictures as I go.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Alf (17 Jun 2007)

Ah, WIP concentrating on the tools - I like  Makes me wonder just how important a thick blade really is in roughing planes; suggests "not very much at all really" doesn't it?

Incidentally, Paul, your stone set-up is altogether too organised and I hate you. :lol:

Cheers, Alf


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## Paul Chapman (17 Jun 2007)

Alf":3n4qb0bx said:


> Incidentally, Paul, your stone set-up is altogether too organised and I hate you. :lol:



I wiped all the crud off for the photo  

Do you like the Clifton green make-over on the Frampton Special? :wink: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## mr (17 Jun 2007)

Looking forward to more pics. You have another set of planes for finishing use I guess? A diamond stone user I see. I'm getting very bored with the waterstone mess (as is the Fairy Princess) and thinking about a reinvestment.

Cheers Mike


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## DomValente (17 Jun 2007)

Brilliant Paul, wish I had the time to keep my tools so beautifully.

Don't know if my son(the engineer) was winding me up but he was reading this post over my shoulder.
He suggests, Tripoli paste and a buffing wheel, then remove hydrocarbons with ultrasonic cleaner filled with BIOX liquid, finally check with UV light for imperfections.
If he was please tell me so I can slap him next time he's home  

Dom


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## Alf (17 Jun 2007)

Paul Chapman":2qf9nhi7 said:


> Do you like the Clifton green make-over on the Frampton Special? :wink:


I'm terribly hurt you didn't like the flaking _ersatz_ Record blue. [-( :lol: Looks dead posh - rosewood handles next?  

Cheers, Alf


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## Paul Chapman (17 Jun 2007)

mr":1bve62zo said:


> You have another set of planes for finishing use I guess? A diamond stone user I see. I'm getting very bored with the waterstone mess (as is the Fairy Princess) and thinking about a reinvestment.



Yes, I have Cliftons #3, #4 1/2, #6 and #7  They are cracking planes and knock spots off the Records, particularly on hard and difficult woods. However, now that I'm using lots of sawn hard woods, I've needed to experiment with scrub-type planes for the initial preparation. Somewhat to my surprise, I've found that planes that don't work particularly well as finishing planes can be made to work very well as scrub-type planes. I think it's all to do with the fact that in scrub work you are taking fairly deep cuts but only using the central portion of the blade. Anyway, it works for me  

On the stones, I've never tried water stones because I really don't think I could be bothered with all the flattening business and the mess. And I hate anything that uses water because of potential rust problems. I use the DMT stones with WD40 or 3-in-1 oil and the strop and the results are great. But I must get a fine one without the holes because they do tend to catch on very narrow blades (like the beading blades in the Multiplane).

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Paul Chapman (17 Jun 2007)

DomValente":1v9xsi4f said:


> Don't know if my son(the engineer) was winding me up but he was reading this post over my shoulder.
> He suggests, Tripoli paste and a buffing wheel, then remove hydrocarbons with ultrasonic cleaner filled with BIOX liquid, finally check with UV light for imperfections.
> If he was please tell me so I can slap him next time he's home



:? :? I'm afraid that's way over my head :lol: Slap him anyway for trying to complicate matters :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (17 Jun 2007)

Paul - nice start, don't envy you prepping all that oak by hand, still take some consolation in the fact that Sidney Barnsley at the beginning of the 20century prepared all his oak in a similar way....no power tools of any sort (not that there was much around then)  

Mike - glad to see someone else becoming disenchanted with waterstones  , take a tip from me and Paul and try the DMT stones and a strop with Vaseline and Jeweler's Rouge, you will be quite amazed at the edge you can get and the bonus is that there's no mess worth speaking of and the stones don't have to be continually flattened. I use a Fine grade as a middle stone without holes for narrow stuff as Paul has said, other wise narrow blades can get easily caught in the holes - Rob


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## DomValente (17 Jun 2007)

Paul Chapman":1wadmpc5 said:


> Slap him anyway for trying to complicate matters :lol:
> 
> Cheers :wink:
> 
> Paul



:lol: :lol: Hmm, My hand , Brick S**thouse :roll: 

Dom


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## DavidE (17 Jun 2007)

Hi Paul,

An interesting post especially seeing all the planes and the process. It makes me think I'm soft... I bought a thicknesser because I was getting bored with planning Pitch pine.

Thanks, David


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## Waka (17 Jun 2007)

Paul

Preparing all by hand, I am impressed. I agree with Alf its good to see the tool preparation taking a lead in the project.

Good work so far, keep us informed of progress please.


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## newt (20 Jun 2007)

Paul ref the use of WD 40 on the diamond stones I tried this and liked it, BUT instructions say no petroleum products to be used. My previous cheaper stones delaminated from the plastic backing, I suspect because I used WD 40. Anyone else got any views on this issue.


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## Paul Chapman (20 Jun 2007)

newt":2q2dpd8t said:


> Paul ref the use of WD 40 on the diamond stones I tried this and liked it, BUT instructions say no petroleum products to be used. My previous cheaper stones delaminated from the plastic backing, I suspect because I used WD 40.



Pete, I've always used WD40 or 3-in-1 oil ever since I bought the stones many years ago and never had any problems. The DMT stones used to be imported by Starkey & Starkey and when I was in correspondence with them I mentioned that I used WD40 rather than water. They agreed that this was a good idea and did not anticipate any problems.

Having said that, it probably depends how the plate is fixed to the plastic backing and it's likely that different makes use difference methods, so I dare say that it's possible to get delamination with some diamond stones.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Alf (21 Jun 2007)

Pete, fwiw I've been using paraffin on my DMTs for donkey's now; no ill-effects that I can see. Of course there's no knowing if they've changed something in the manufacturing since then so I wouldn't like to place money on it still being okay... 8-[

Cheers, Alf


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## Jake (21 Jun 2007)

From DMT's website FAQ section:

_*I know it says to use the sharpener dry or with water, but can I use oil anyway? Can I store my DMT stone in kerosene?*

While we recommend you use DMT® products dry or with water only, it is acceptable to use a variety of lubricants when sharpening with DMT® products. Mineral oil, mineral spirits, kerosene, WD40 can all be used without harming your DMT® sharpener. We do not recommend storing your DMT sharpener in kerosene. DMT® recommends that you always wipe your Diamond and Unbreakable Ceramic Sahrpeners clean and store dry after use._


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## Alf (21 Jun 2007)

Jake":3l9n9y3u said:


> From DMT's website FAQ section:


#-o  :lol:


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## Jake (21 Jun 2007)

I seemed to remember the instructions saying water or a few drops of oil, but after seeing this thread, had to check the website myself to make sure I hadn't fallen into destructive ways... I use some anonymous thin mineral oil myself, to avoid the rust issue for both stones and tools.

It may not hold true for all brands, of course...


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## engineer one (21 Jun 2007)

dom, thought about the buffing wheel, would think it was too soft and might not give a decent FLAT finish across the back.( my engineers hat on)

although i have not yet gotten round tuit, i am leaning toward the mdf circle attached to my old bd grinder, the one with a spare end, and then using veritas green rouge. not too high speed, so should be ok, to clean up the backs(bevels fronts????) that i have so far been able to get on the tormek.

so be careful with the brick room
:lol: 
paul :wink:


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## DomValente (21 Jun 2007)

engineer one":326w7ha2 said:


> dom, thought about the buffing wheel, would think it was too soft and might not give a decent FLAT finish across the back.( my engineers hat on)
> 
> although i have not yet gotten round tuit, i am leaning toward the mdf circle attached to my old bd grinder, the one with a spare end, and then using veritas green rouge. not too high speed, so should be ok, to clean up the backs(bevels fronts????) that i have so far been able to get on the tormek.
> 
> ...




No, No, No, I was just quoting what my son said, don't try and draw me onto the evil Slope .  

Dom


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## Paul Chapman (1 Aug 2007)

I've been doing a bit more work on my round oak table for the competition. Well, planing really - and more planing - then more. Good job I enjoy planing 

This sort of thing







When you have to prepare stuff like oak from rough sawn boards, it teaches you a lot about planing and, in particular, how to set up your planes. For stock removal, I'm using these three planes which are set up as scrub planes






I regularly check with winding sticks like this






Once the #7 scrub has done it's job, a few shavings with my finely set Clifton #7 finishes off the job.

I'm a bit disappointed with the oak I bought a couple of years ago. I fear it might have been kiln dried, and not very well. When I bought it, it wasn't stored inside so I assumed it had been air dried. It has a few defects but I'll have to work around those, because I can't afford to waste it. Fingers crossed :roll: 

I'll post another progress report when I've done a bit more.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (1 Aug 2007)

Paul Chapman wrote:


> might have been kiln dried, and not very well.


Paul - oak looks OK in the pics but it's difficult to tell. If it's been kilned too quickly it'll be full of small splits and cracks which is a bit of a pain - Rob


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## Paul Chapman (1 Aug 2007)

woodbloke":m2vxkbiz said:


> Paul Chapman wrote:
> 
> 
> > might have been kiln dried, and not very well.
> ...



Yes, Rob, that's what I'm finding. It looked OK when I bought it and I've stored it carefully but now that I'm working on it I'm finding a few splits and cracks. If it doesn't get any worse I might be able to work around it. It does make you cross, though, because wood's not cheap.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## DarrenW (1 Aug 2007)

Hi All,

I've had similar problems with the Oak I got for my Competition entry. But problems are mainly due to my own stupidity. 

I bought a selection of 1inch and 2inch boards, all air dried for just over 2 years. First time I have bought alot of timber, normal pick up the odd board here an there. Anyway, purchased nice air dried oak in Feb and stuck it spare bedroom to settle for a good couple of months before starting work. Unfortunately forgot to turn the radiator off in the room (assuming that would have helped ?), so after 4 days the 2 inch stock had a nice 8 inch split at both ends :evil:. On a positive note the 1inch stuff is fine.

Was not happy, but my own stupid fault.  

So ever since then its been a battle to find the right timber for each part of the build. Why does it always split and crack in the nice clean bits of wood and not near all the knots :? 

Anyway getting there slowly (its a steep learning curve). I'll start a WIP page soon for more stats on the build.

Darren


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## woodbloke (1 Aug 2007)

Darren - I think that going from an air dried environment in Feb (wet, so MC would be quite high) to a _heated_ indoor room was probably a little too much, better I think to have put the oak into a cooler room without heating for a couple of months and then into a moderately warmer room for final conditioning - Rob


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## DarrenW (1 Aug 2007)

Rob,

Yep... I think lesson truely learnt! 

Its quite a cool room and did turn the radiator off after spotting the cracks, but damage was done by that point! #-o 

Darren


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## Waka (1 Aug 2007)

Paul

Great progress report, just a shame about the oak.


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## Paul Chapman (3 Aug 2007)

In my last update I mentioned that I was rather disappointed with the oak I was using for my table top as it appeared to have a few defects, suggesting possibly that it had been kiln-dried but not very well. In the event my worst fears were confirmed - the more I planed it the more cracks and splits appeared. The wood appeared to be full of internal stresses which were being released as it was planed. There was clearly no point in continuing with it and I was feeling quite depressed after having spent a considerable sum of money on the wood and done a lot of work on it    

However, it's at times like these that real friends appear, as if by magic  Dom Valente sent me a PM saying that he had some nice, dry European oak that I could use if it would help me. So this morning I drove over to Dom's lovely workshop and came back with some really nice boards that will be perfect for the table top. Here's a picture of Dom in his workshop






Thanks again, Dom, I'm very, very grateful to you.

I also received some very helpful PMs from Paul (Chisel) and Mike B and I'd like to say a big thanks to you as well. There are some very nice people on here  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## ByronBlack (3 Aug 2007)

Well done Dom - always good to hear forum members helping each other out.

Interesting pic - ruined my image of Dom being a mafia boss


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## woodbloke (3 Aug 2007)

BB wrote:


> Interesting pic - ruined my image of Dom being a mafia boss


it's only business.....cue music :lol: - Rob


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## Scrit (3 Aug 2007)

Byron

You're right. It's really terrible to have one's mental images cast aside so wantonly. I've always had this mental picture of Dom as the only member of this forum who dresses in a chalk stripe blue apron, black shirt, white tie and steel-toecap spats.........

Scrit


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## woodbloke (3 Aug 2007)

....or do you think Dom's a _slightly_ older version of my son at the weekends :lol: :lol: - Rob


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## DomValente (3 Aug 2007)

Okay justa seen thisa post and I suggest youse guys go to da mattresses.

Paul you are most welcome, good to meet up again, might I suggest a camera that could make me pretty next time  

Dom


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## engineer one (3 Aug 2007)

but dom, if the italians don't make cameras, how can such a thing exist :lol: :twisted: :roll: 

nice clean shop area though

yet another 
paul :wink:


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## Paul Chapman (3 Aug 2007)

DomValente":1uo64840 said:


> might I suggest a camera that could make me pretty next time



Sorry Dom  but I was concentrating on the Felders :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## DomValente (3 Aug 2007)

Thanks for the Grappa Paul,  it will hit the spot, usually have a nip just before the shoulder holster goes on :twisted: 

Dom


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## Scrit (3 Aug 2007)

DomValente":11hmmh12 said:


> usually have a nip just before the shoulder holster goes on :twisted:


Odd place to keep a cordless, Dom. But then I don't normally drill anyone with my screw shooter :roll:


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## Paul Chapman (4 Aug 2007)

DomValente":1asr2qib said:


> Thanks for the Grappa Paul,



You are very welcome, Dom :wink: In my house nobody else likes the stuff, so I get to drink it all myself    I always have a bottle or three lying around the place :wink: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Paul Chapman (4 Aug 2007)

Following a very enjoyable morning with Dom yesterday, I spent an equally enjoyable time with Paul (aka Chisel) this morning at his lovely house, garden and workshop. I also met his lovely wife and their whippet called Lottie. Blimey, Lottie can move when the mood takes her :shock: :lol: Good job Paul has a big garden.

Paul had a lot of reclaimed oak floorboards (along with rather a lot of other wood :shock: The last time I saw that much wood, it was called Yandles :lol: ). He very kindly said I could have some. Laminated together I will be able to use them for the legs and under rails of my table.

Here's a picture of me cutting some to length so that I could get them in the car. I was using Paul's very nice DeWalt sliding mitre thingy






Paul has a very nice workshop and some very droolworthy equipment. In particular he has a lathe which most wood turners would die for. I can't remember the name of it but it was probably built by Isambard Kingdom Brunel :shock: 











In the background you can see some of Paul's turning blanks. Believe me, there are plenty more :shock: :lol: 

When I arrived Paul was finishing off fitting one of his large Record bench vices. The end vice has been fitted and works very nicely and in this picture Paul was trying on the front wooden face that he had laminated. Still needs trimming to size and drilling for a bench dog. He's made a good job of it






Thanks again, Paul, your generosity and hospitality was very much appreciated.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## paulm (4 Aug 2007)

Good to have you round Paul and looking forwards to seeing some more of your table project.

Can recommend the lathe to any would be turners out there, for information it's a WivaMac from that ever so nice bloke Peter Helmsley at the Toolpost http://www.toolpost.co.uk/pages/index.html Made in Belgium and shipped across the channel in Peter's Transit, he does loads of turning and general woodworking accessories too.

Hope to post some pics later of the vice fitting, but won't hijack your thread !

Cheers, Paul.


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## ByronBlack (4 Aug 2007)

So, who's next to be named and photographed on Pauls UK tour of UKW members  

Nice to see some of these workshops, maybe coz i'm a nosey sod?

I would invite you to my workshop but it would be a devastating climax of global proportions; although I could show off my extensive collection of cheap screwfix tools :lol:


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## Paul Chapman (4 Aug 2007)

ByronBlack":oldbrx0f said:


> So, who's next to be named and photographed on Pauls UK tour of UKW members



:-k That's an idea. Wonder if I could interest the BBC in a Dimbleby-type round-Britain tour of woodworking shops :-k :-k :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## ByronBlack (4 Aug 2007)

Paul Chapman":3nc4f9bu said:


> ByronBlack":3nc4f9bu said:
> 
> 
> > So, who's next to be named and photographed on Pauls UK tour of UKW members
> ...



It would certainly be a thousand times more interesting than Tommy Walsh or the other dreadful 'wood' based programs that get aired these days.

There is of course another option - P.Chapman Investigates: A YouTube documentary series of the wonders of the UK workshop


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## Paul Chapman (4 Aug 2007)

ByronBlack":34af556q said:


> There is of course another option - P.Chapman Investigates: A YouTube documentary series of the wonders of the UK workshop



But then all the SWMBO's might find out what's in the workshops - could be a *BIG* mistake :shock: :shock: :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (5 Aug 2007)

I've often thought that a very good programme series for the Beeb2 would be a serious look at all sorts of people making stuff to a high standard throughout the country, sort of Dimblebyesque kind of thing with his Landy but visiting top makers in different areas eg, wood, metalworking (jewelery and silversmithing) ceramics, textiles etc. Would be a refreshing change from all the absolute dross dished up on the DIY progs such as 'Changing Rooms' from a while back but not including DIY SOS which is compulsive viewing for me, same as TG :wink: - Rob


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## Scrit (5 Aug 2007)

woodbloke":1s6qhgi9 said:


> I've often thought that a very good programme series for the Beeb2 would be a serious look at all sorts of people making stuff to a high standard throughout the country, sort of Dimblebyesque kind of thing with his Landy....


Yes, but could we please have it done by someone who understands the task at hand, like David C or Richard J? Then of course we could have the grumpy old men version with Senior and Mr Grimsdale :lol: 

Scrit


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## woodbloke (5 Aug 2007)

Yehbut Scrit.....do David C and Richard J drive Landy's? Possibly. I, on the other hand _do_ trundle about in a Landrover so would be admirably qualified for this sort of task :roll: :wink: 
Edit....but so does Rick Stein  - Rob


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## Paul Chapman (14 Aug 2007)

Conscious of the reminder from Chris that we need to start posting details of what we are doing for the competition, here's a mini update.

I posted details of the help I had received from Dom Valente and Paul (Chisel) after finding that the oak I was using had splits in it. Here's the oak Dom let me have which I will be using for the circular table top. 







I'm about to start jointing the edges and gluing it up, using loose plywood tongues, so I've been arranging the boards to make the best use of what I have, ensure that the grain is alternating from board to board and to get the most pleasing pattern. Funny how indecisive I can become when doing something like this :? 

I've made up a compass from a couple of those Trend compass head things attached to a steel ruler - I'll keep that set up for the duration of the job.

Bit of a confession to make. I was going to make this table almost entirely with hand tools because I don't have any machinery. Well, when I visited Dom, not only did he let me have some very nice oak, but he offered to shove it through his planer and plane it roughly to size. As I had already spent several hours planing up the previous stuff, which turned out to have splits in it, I weakened and said "OK then". It was a very impressive piece of kit - wish I could afford one :wink: 

More pictures and words to follow.......

Chris - if it's more appropriate, could you transfer this thread to the Competition forum. Ta.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Paul Chapman (14 Aug 2007)

Another mini update (blimey, two in one day :shock: :lol: ). The wife went out to visit her Mum this evening, so I managed to get a bit more done  

A couple of the boards have some less than perfect wood at the edges so I need to remove that. I could have just ripped it off with my hand-held circular saw, but it's just as quick (and far less messy) to scrub it off with my modified Record #7 with its steeply cambered blade.






Don't you just love those shavings  When doing long edges, having a jointer modified like a scrub is useful. It enables a lot of wood to be removed, very fast and effortlessly, but keeps the edge straight. Also, doing it by planing rather than sawing I can stop as soon as the necessary wood is removed, and I want to get the maximum out of the boards. I'll then move on to my Clifton with a finely set blade to finally prepare the boards for grooving and gluing up.

I'm finding that having hand tools set up for specific tasks like this leads to much faster and more efficient working  

More soon.....

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Anonymous (14 Aug 2007)

Scrit":rsl5g9gk said:


> Then of course we could have the grumpy old men version with Senior and Mr Grimsdale :lol:
> 
> Scrit



Stereotyping at it's worst, this really makes me angry and there's absolutely no need for it in todays society, i've made my point so i'll say no more and wish you good night you flat cap wearing, whippet lover. :lol: :lol:


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## Paul Chapman (15 Aug 2007)

Went out today to buy some plywood to make the loose tongues for my table top. Blimey, what a load of old rubbish :shock: :shock: Where do they get this stuff :? :? Not only was it warped through bad storage but it was manufactured with kinks in it. It was full of voids. Some of the layers were not even stuck down properly. Tried a few places but one lot seems to be as bad as the next. They must have special production lines to produce stuff this bad.

Decided to use biscuits instead - similar result, it will be quicker and at least my biscuits are of a consistent quality.

Rant over - back to work  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (15 Aug 2007)

Paul - if you can get buy it anywhere in your neck of the woods, decent birch ply is worth getting hold of for loose tongues and wafers etc but it do relieve the wallet a bit   - Rob


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## Chris Knight (15 Aug 2007)

Paul,

Why use either? I never use biscuits or loose tongues in table tops or chair seats and they have never failed on me yet. A simple glued joint will see you and several generations of Chapmans out. As a hand tool specialist, I thught you would be using Scotch glue - perfect for rubbed joints.


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## Paul Chapman (15 Aug 2007)

Thanks, Rob and Chris. I like to use biscuits or loose tongues for two reasons. First for location and to stop the pieces slipping and sliding about during glue-ups - there's enough stress without that  Second, I really do think they add strength - in the few tests I've done deliberately breaking joints, the ones with biscuits or tongues have never broken at the joint. Never used scotch glue since my school days. Might give it a go again when I try some veneering.

Yes Rob, when I come across some decent birch ply I'll buy a few pieces. It's always useful to have around.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## DomValente (15 Aug 2007)

You may prefer to use a double layer of biscuits Paul they're quite thick boards.

Dom


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## Paul Chapman (15 Aug 2007)

*Dom wrote on another thread*

today I became a Cabinetmaker(1500 posts) so now you will have to listen to me. 

Well, guess it's two rows of biscuits, then  

Seriously, thanks for the tip - I'm sure you are right :wink: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (16 Aug 2007)

I wrote -


> Edit....but so does Rick Stein


......who had his Landy pinched on the telly last night  - Rob


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## Paul Chapman (16 Aug 2007)

woodbloke":3g4acu0g said:


> ......who had his Landy pinched on the telly last night



What a bummer   Hope he gets it back in one piece.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## DomValente (16 Aug 2007)

Yes he did, I telephoned a few ...........friends

Dom


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## Paul Chapman (16 Aug 2007)

8) 8) 8) 8)


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## Paul Chapman (6 Sep 2007)

I've done a bit more on the table today. Jointed two of the pieces for the top with my Clifton #7 and #6. Picture shows testing the pieces for a nice fit







I then cut slots for two rows of biscuits with my Elu DS 140






This shows the two rows of biscuits inserted






And finally the two pieces glued and cramped up (otherwise known as fingers crossed time  )






More pics to follow.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## engineer one (6 Sep 2007)

good luck paul, thought you only used hand tools so where's your hand biscuit jointer :twisted: :lol: 

only 3 pics came down, not the jointing one  

looks good

paul :wink:


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## DomValente (6 Sep 2007)

Nice planes Paul, er, that was the point wasn't it  

Dom


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## engineer one (6 Sep 2007)

nah dom he ain't that subtle is he :twisted: :lol: 


paul :wink:


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## Paul Chapman (6 Sep 2007)

DomValente":1mpzpkz3 said:


> Nice planes Paul, er, that was the point wasn't it



Well, as they say, if you've got it, flaunt it  Must try to get the #3 and #4.5 in some time  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Paul Chapman (6 Sep 2007)

engineer one":3bbfsts4 said:


> thought you only used hand tools so where's your hand biscuit jointer :twisted: :lol:



I'm giving the Stanley #55 a rest :lol: 

If you don't get all the pictures, try the refresh button.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (23 Sep 2007)

With my recent dental problems, I've lost about one and a half weeks workshop time (difficult to concentrate when you have toothache  ) so I've been busy playing catch-up  

I've finished jointing and gluing up the boards for the circular table top






I jointed and glued on each board individually. This took time but with something this large and heavy, attempting to glue it up all at once is a recipe for disaster.

Normally I like to joint boards in pairs but these were too thick so had to be planed individually. They then each received a double row of biscuits - you can see from the pencil marks where I put them. One dodge I've found useful when cutting biscuit slots in very hard wood is to plunge the cutter in small steps. That way I find that you don't get any kick-back and the slots can be cut very precisely. I was very pleased with the way they all went together. Nice, tight joints and the whole top is very flat so will require a minimum of cleaning up.

I use cramp heads on wooden bars and to counteract any tendency for the sash cramps to flex, I use shaped cramping blocks. You can see the two I used on the right of the picture below






These shaped blocks have the effect of directing the pressure from the sash cramps through the centre of the edge of the board. I pinched that idea from David Charlesworth, and it really works - thanks David  

This afternoon I'll be making an adjustable trammel to cut the top with my router so I'll post some pictures of that when I've done it.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul

PS Some of my earlier pictures have disappeared with FreeShare closing down  Will re-post them when I have a minute to spare.


----------



## ByronBlack (23 Sep 2007)

That looks a real 'mare of a glue-up! Good to see it coming together, I admire you patience in hand planing all the boards!


----------



## Paul Chapman (24 Sep 2007)

I've now re-posted the images which went missing when FreeShare closed down.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (24 Sep 2007)

I've finished making up the adjustable trammel to cut the circular table top. Here are the components 






The idea behind it is that as the top will require a lot of passes with the router to cut through, I want a very firm fixing for the trammel pivot point - I can't afford to risk it slipping. I therefore plan to drill a 1/4" diameter hole in the underside of the table top (this can be plugged afterwards) and use the shank of a 1/4" drill bit as the pivot. The drill bit will fit in the hardwood block and the block, which has slots to allow adjustment, will be fitted to the trammel base with screws and wing nuts.

Here's a picture of it all assembled






I don't have a Woodrat but a few years ago I bought a Woodrat plunge bar. For this type of work the plunge bar enables you to plunge the router one-handed.

I'll let you know if it all works  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## DomValente (24 Sep 2007)

This is the exciting bit :twisted: 

Dom


----------



## Paul Chapman (24 Sep 2007)

DomValente":nbgoslts said:


> This is the exciting bit :twisted:



Are you trying to get me more worried than I already am  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## DomValente (24 Sep 2007)

Moi ?


----------



## engineer one (24 Sep 2007)

paul how can you be worried by a man who thinks a hammer needs a laser
to control it :twisted: 

nice trammel, interested to understand why you see the need for such a thick pivot, having used a standard trend bar with the pin, i agree it needs beefing up, but that much :? 

good luck, have you got the swear box nearby and enough money for it :roll: 

paul :wink:


----------



## Paul Chapman (24 Sep 2007)

engineer one":1j75dn9d said:


> nice trammel, interested to understand why you see the need for such a thick pivot, having used a standard trend bar with the pin, i agree it needs beefing up, but that much :?



The normal pin arrangement isn't very secure and requires that you concentrate on the pin and the cutting. With a more secure pivot arrangement I should be able to forget about the pivot and concentrate on the cutting - at least that's the theory........  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## DomValente (24 Sep 2007)

Used a similar system once and started drilling the hole to hold the pivot and forgot to stop drilling  

Dom


----------



## Paul Chapman (24 Sep 2007)

Now you really are trying to get me worried........ :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Lord Nibbo (24 Sep 2007)

Paul Chapman":37bbt7lg said:


> The normal pin arrangement isn't very secure and requires that you concentrate on the pin and the cutting. With a more secure pivot arrangement I should be able to forget about the pivot and concentrate on the cutting - at least that's the theory........
> 
> Cheers :wink:
> 
> Paul



With a jig set up like that it got to work \/


----------



## engineer one (24 Sep 2007)

are you sure you want to make a living doing special works dom :roll: 

paul :wink:


----------



## Alf (25 Sep 2007)

Ah, trammel cutting with a router; almost as much fun as glue-ups. Should be fine though - as long as the collet doesn't give up the ghost on you half way round and launch the cutter into the work, as I had last time I tried using one... 

Not being helpful in any way, Alf :wink:


----------



## Paul Chapman (25 Sep 2007)

Alf":36dija31 said:


> Should be fine though - as long as the collet doesn't give up the ghost on you half way round and launch the cutter into the work



:shock: :shock: :shock: With all these horror stories, I'm not sure I want to do this......... :lol: :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## engineer one (25 Sep 2007)

so how about a mid course re-design and now a rectangular table :lol: :twisted: 

take your courage in both hands
8) 
paul :wink:


----------



## ByronBlack (25 Sep 2007)

or - how about cut it with a bowsaw and tidy up with a spokeshave?


----------



## Paul Chapman (25 Sep 2007)

ByronBlack":3814o5br said:


> or - how about cut it with a bowsaw and tidy up with a spokeshave?



:roll: :roll: I want to get it finished this year....... :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## DomValente (25 Sep 2007)

We're waiting Paul 8-[ 8-[ 8-[ 


Dom


----------



## Paul Chapman (25 Sep 2007)

So what was all the fuss about :? Despite you doom-mongers attempting to put the fear of God into me, the circle has been successfully cut \/ 

I started by screwing a couple of piece of 2'x4' MDF to one of my supplementary work tops to use as a sacrificial base







I then needed to drill (carefully, Dom  ) a 1/4" hole in the underside of the table top for the router pivot pin. To ensure this was vertical, I used my Record 148 dowelling jig. As my 3' rods were not long enough, I used a rather convoluted arrangement using 3' rods, 18" rods, bits of wood and G cramps - but it worked  







I then stuck the table top to the sacrificial base with double-sided tape, attached the router with its 'Chapman Patent Trammel Bar', and started to rout.






Success \/ 






A perfect circle 8) 8) I've spent a lot of time on this but I think it was worth it. The secure pivot point arrangement was very effective and it really did mean that I could forget about the pivot end and concentrate on the cutting.

I'm now trying to figure out how to remove the table top which is stuck rather firmly to the sacrificial MDF via very effective double-sided tape :-k 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Alf (25 Sep 2007)

Paul Chapman":2ibsm4xq said:


> you doom-mongers


I'm sure we were just trying to point out things to watch for so you could avoid them, s'all...  

Glad it went okay; how much double-sided tape did you use?!  Incidentally, Footprint wheel brace?

Cheers, Alf


----------



## Paul Chapman (25 Sep 2007)

Thanks, Alf - I realise it was all a sort of encouragement  Managed to remove it from the double-sided tape. Scott got hold of one side and I got hold of the other and we twisted it. That broke the seal.

Yes, I have a Footprint and a Record. Excellent. They both have chucks which are tightened with a chuck key, which I prefer. I use them all the time. There's 'your' large Yankee in the picture as well, complete with CK adaptor :wink: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## engineer one (25 Sep 2007)

courage mon brave :lol: 

shucks there was me hoping i might get a mention as an entrant but not sure i can beat that piece of work paul :roll: 

paul :wink:


----------



## DomValente (25 Sep 2007)

Nice job Paul

Phew.

Dom


----------



## Paul Chapman (25 Sep 2007)

engineer one":2fxilks0 said:


> not sure i can beat that piece of work paul :roll:



Don't worry, there's still plenty of scope for cock-ups - I haven't started the legs or rails yet :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (25 Sep 2007)

DomValente":ygtpc50p said:


> Nice job Paul



Thanks, Dom - don't think I could have faced you if I'd screwed up on that lovely oak  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Alf (25 Sep 2007)

Paul Chapman":1j0bv2oj said:


> Yes, I have a Footprint and a Record. Excellent. They both have chucks which are tightened with a chuck key, which I prefer.


A Record? Really? I didn't know there was one with a keyed chuck; learn something every day. I have a Footprint somewhere - regretably it came in the box making me reluctant to part tool from box and use it. (I know, I know, what a c*ll*ct*r...  ) 



Paul Chapman":1j0bv2oj said:


> There's 'your' large Yankee in the picture as well, complete with CK adaptor :wink:


Heh heh, I did wonder 

Cheers, Alf


----------



## engineer one (25 Sep 2007)

paul, it's all right you saying you have major potential problem areas in the legs etc.
however give me some thoughts, i have, once i have finally assembled the long frames to the ends, to mark out and make the mortices in the table top. :? since the whole design is around the shape of the top, this is gonna be really toilet training :roll: 

paul :wink:


----------



## DomValente (25 Sep 2007)

engineer one":lxvq9kqp said:


> paul, it's all right you saying you have major potential problem areas in the legs etc.
> however give me some thoughts, i have, once i have finally assembled the long frames to the ends, to mark out and make the mortices in the table top. :? since the whole design is around the shape of the top, this is gonna be really toilet training :roll:
> 
> paul :wink:



Pardon ? :? 

Dom


----------



## engineer one (25 Sep 2007)

well what do you wear brown trousers for :roll: 

i worry about cutting the mortices accurately and cleanly so that once the wedged tenons are in, they look tidy and even dare i say it attractive 8) 

paul :wink:


----------



## DomValente (25 Sep 2007)

See. Now I understand  

Dom


----------



## engineer one (25 Sep 2007)

i had forgotten about your sensitivity :twisted: :roll: 

is this the dominator i see before me 8) 

paul :wink:


----------



## DomValente (25 Sep 2007)

I wasn't being sensitive about the toilet training, I just didn't understand what you said  

Dom


----------



## engineer one (25 Sep 2007)

how can the capo di capo de monte not understand such things  

i am shocked :lol: 

just when i thought i could be subtle for once. well if i knew what the word meant :roll: 

paul :wink:


----------



## Paul Chapman (25 Sep 2007)

DomValente":1tplgssk said:


> I just didn't understand what you said



Nor me - glad you sorted it out, Dom  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## ByronBlack (25 Sep 2007)

I also had no idea on what you meant - I re-read the post a number of times, I had wondered whether or not you had been on the plonk! 

Which entry level are you both in? (paul and paul I mean).


----------



## Paul Chapman (25 Sep 2007)

Hi Byron,

'Improver' for me.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## engineer one (25 Sep 2007)

i'm not sure yet, i would guess "trying to get there" whatever level that is at :? 

the other paul :wink:


----------



## ByronBlack (25 Sep 2007)

just trying to suss out my comeptitors  Glad your not in the beginners section!!


----------



## Paul Chapman (29 Sep 2007)

Having made up the top and cut it to size, I'm turning my attention to the legs and rails. Yesterday afternoon I sorted through all the oak which I had originally bought for the top but which I couldn't use because it developed splits. I have kept this in stick and after sorting it through and much juggling about, I think I have found just enough good stuff for the legs. 

The table will be only 18" high so the legs will be quite short. This is what I've come up with







I think it's going to be OK. Next job is to plane it up and join the pieces with double rows of biscuits.

I'm still a little undecided about the final thickness of the legs. Having made up the top and held pieces of wood against it, I'm leaning towards my original idea of 3" thick legs. However, I'll make them up and see how it looks - I can always reduce the thickness if required.

More pics to follow in due course  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul

PS those prizes are nice


----------



## engineer one (29 Sep 2007)

looks nice paul, 
how about l shaped legs rather than solid?? :roll: 

paul :wink:


----------



## Paul Chapman (29 Sep 2007)

engineer one":2qp754k3 said:


> looks nice paul,
> how about l shaped legs rather than solid?? :roll:



Thanks. The table will be going in a 16th century cottage so the design is deliberately being kept simple to blend in with its surroundings. No scope, therefore, for fancy, shaped legs.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## engineer one (29 Sep 2007)

sorry mate i meant "L" shaped not sexily shaped  

paul :wink:


----------



## Paul Chapman (30 Sep 2007)

Earlier on in this thread, I mentioned that Paul (Chisel) had kindly let me have some nice old oak floorboards. They are a little thin and have been varnished. However, a quick swipe or two with the plane is removing the varnish and three or four of the boards glued together will hopefully make suitable rails for the table  






Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (9 Oct 2007)

Two of the four legs glued up and the third one showing the method of construction with a double row of biscuits






Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Escudo (10 Oct 2007)

You seem to be winning the battle Paul.

Can't wait to see your table and in particular the proportions.

Keep up the good work, not long to go now before completion date.

Cheers, Esc.


----------



## Paul Chapman (10 Oct 2007)

Thanks, Esc. I like your shoe box :wink: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## woodbloke (11 Oct 2007)

Paul - coming together now...you got the legs planed up mighty quickly I see, must have had a very steep camber on the plane irons to remove so much so quickly :wink: :lol: - Rob


----------



## Paul Chapman (11 Oct 2007)

:wink: :wink: :wink: :wink: :lol:


----------



## Paul Chapman (16 Oct 2007)

Latest update.

I've been planing up the old floorboards to laminate together to make the under rails. I had originally thought this would be a five-minute job  Well, I was mistaken :shock:  Not only were they covered in varnish, but a lot of them had a lot of snipe, presumably from when they were originally planed. 

As the boards were quite thin they had to be planed very carefully to remove the varnish and snipe and still leave enough thickness. It's taken forever. I used mainly my #7 scrub-type plane with a very fine cut (bit of a contradiction, I know, but it worked), plus #5, #4 and #4.5 and occasionally a scraper.

Anyway it's worked and you can see the twelve boards here 






In the background are the four legs all glued up. I had a problem with one of these. In my last update I showed three of them. That's because one of the eight pieces of oak I was gluing together developed a twist :shock: Anyway I managed to find another piece that was OK-ish so they are now done.

Anyway, must go - I have a table to finish and the clock is ticking 8-[ 8-[ :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (17 Oct 2007)

A bit more real-time posting 8) 8) 

The legs of the table will be set in 1" from the edge and splayed by a further inch. I tried drawing this out full-size on a sheet of MDF but then decided to draw out the legs on the underside of the top. Much easier to visualise that way and to take measurements.











You see, Phil, I knew that large compass from Pennyfarthing Tools would come in useful :wink:  

More later.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Philly (17 Oct 2007)

Good old PFT :lol: 
Looking good, Paul!
Philly


----------



## Paul Chapman (17 Oct 2007)

And there's more.......  

Planing up the under rails roughly to size before gluing them up with biscuits. I'm using three boards per rail, and these are clamped together for planing (also known as a gloaty plane picture  )








After planing, I always mark the boards with arrows to indicate the direction for planing, so that I don't get any tear out when subsequently planing the boards






:-k I'm sure Chris said there was a category for most number of WIP pictures :-k :-k :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (18 Oct 2007)

In case you're sick of the sight of planing, routing and biscuit jointing, I thought I'd give you a change  

Didn't get into the workshop today because my son, Scott, had to do a 3 hour, solo, cross-country flight and I thought I'd go along to keep him company. For a change it was beautiful weather so the views were fabulous - better than the one of the two blokes in the cockpit  






Oh well, back to planing and biscuit jointing tomorrow  :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## TonyW (18 Oct 2007)

Paul, How can it be a "solo" flight if you were there ?   
Must be a proud moment for any Dad. Anyway please get on with your project - I am following it with interest  

Cheers  
Tony


----------



## Escudo (18 Oct 2007)

A client of mine took some flying lessons and when I asked him what it was like he said.

"It was like driving a car but with up and down as well as left or right".

Given that explanation I do not plan to be going anywhere near a plane with him!

Esc.


----------



## Paul Chapman (18 Oct 2007)

Escudo":3uinujlc said:


> "It was like driving a car but with up and down as well as left or right".



Was that the technical description.........  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (18 Oct 2007)

TonyW":3j6m94ml said:


> Anyway please get on with your project



Yes, Sir; right away, Sir !! :lol: :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Philly (18 Oct 2007)

Paul
You couldn't get your son to take me on a solo to the States next time, could you? Anywhere.......maybe Maine? :lol: 
And I thought plane gloatage was a little thin on the ground lately..... :wink: 
Cheers
Philly


----------



## Paul Chapman (18 Oct 2007)

Philly":dgl4qcw5 said:


> And I thought plane gloatage was a little thin on the ground lately..... :wink:



Well, with all your published stuff, I had to find some way of competing....  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (20 Oct 2007)

I'm gluing up the boards for the under rails. Three boards per rail. As the boards are quite thin, I'm using #0 size biscuits.

I've staggered the slots on the inner and outer boards, otherwise they would break through on the centre board. Also, I don't want the biscuits to be in the same place as the slots on the inner boards for the buttons. 

I've left the boards over-size in width and length and will adjust these when I've cut the angled top on the legs and can take direct measurements from the pieces







Bit cold in the garage  I'm wearing a vest, shirt, jumper and fleece. I'm sure you wanted to know that  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (20 Oct 2007)

Just been cutting some MDF cauls to use when clamping up the under rails. I've used some of the MDF from the sacrificial base I used when cutting the circular top as it now had a nice circle cut in it, so was scrap






This really is real time posting, so is anyone having a bet on whether I get it finished in time?  

By the way, it's warmed up a bit, so I've got the fleece off  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (20 Oct 2007)

I dunno, never enough G cramps :roll: Two of the rails biscuited, glued and cramped up - will have to do the other two tomorrow when the glue has dried. Will take them in as it looks like it's going to be another cold night






Want a laugh? I was driving behind a black van today, which must belong to an undertaker. On the rear was a sign which read: *"No bodies kept in vehicle overnight" * :shock: :shock: :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## woodbloke (20 Oct 2007)

Paul Chapman":16u3kvgk said:


> In case you're sick of the sight of planing, routing and biscuit jointing, I thought I'd give you a change
> 
> Didn't get into the workshop today because my son, Scott, had to do a 3 hour, solo, cross-country flight and I thought I'd go along to keep him company. For a change it was beautiful weather so the views were fabulous - better than the one of the two blokes in the cockpit
> 
> ...



Paul - great stuff...Scott _still_ hasn't got the proper shades :wink: been over to Pete's today, catch you later next week :wink: - Rob


----------



## Paul Chapman (20 Oct 2007)

woodbloke":2q6pbl3a said:


> ...Scott _still_ hasn't got the proper shades :wink: been over to Pete's today, catch you later next week :wink:



Well that's because he still hasn't got a job and I'm not buying them for him 8) :lol: 

Looking forward to it and hearing all about your new honing skills 8) 8) 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Chris Knight (21 Oct 2007)

Paul,
How was it a solo flight when you were there too? :lol:


----------



## Paul Chapman (21 Oct 2007)

waterhead37":vdrlmcc3 said:


> Paul,
> How was it a solo flight when you were there too? :lol:



I'm still trying to work that out myself :? :? :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (21 Oct 2007)

Well, those thick MDF cauls seem to have worked - the first two laminations have come out of the cramps dead straight and flat. Let's hope they stay that way [-o<  At one point I thought the boards were looking a bit doubtful, but now they're laminated I think they'll be OK. The next two are in the cramps in the background 






Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (22 Oct 2007)

Been doing a bit of agonising today (well, for several days actually) about cutting the top and bottom of the legs.

They need to be cut at an angle across two points rather than across two flats, to get the splayed effect. So it's a compound angle. I know what I want to do but working out the angle is doing my head in. Anyway, it's about 3 degrees (that'll do anyway).

A couple of years ago my wife bought me this as a surprise present 






It's not what I would have chosen because I seldom have a use for it. However, for this job it's ideal. It has a nice, quiet induction motor and cuts nicely. Tried it out on a piece of scrap pine and I think I've got it right. 






I'll let you know later whether I have.............. [-o< 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (22 Oct 2007)

All four under rails now successfully laminated 






They're deliberately over-size both in length and width at the moment, and will need to be sawn and planed down, but I'll sort that out when I've cut the angles on the top of the legs






The ends of the rails will need to be angled as well and have mortices routed for loose tenons into the legs. Might need to make a jig for that... :-k 

More later.......

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Philly (22 Oct 2007)

Coming together, Paul!
Philly


----------



## DaveL (22 Oct 2007)

This is nail biting stuff, I hate compound angle cuts, hope it turns out OK.


----------



## Paul Chapman (22 Oct 2007)

DaveL":20ow365x said:


> This is nail biting stuff



Thanks, Dave, that's really boosted my confidence 8-[ 8-[ :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (23 Oct 2007)

DaveL":2rytb2mu said:


> This is nail biting stuff, I hate compound angle cuts, hope it turns out OK.



OK, Dave, you can stop biting your nails - I've given up on the splayed legs  I've been trying all day but can't get it quite right. A fraction of a degree out on the compound angle throws the legs right out, and that will have a knock-on effect with the rails and it will end up looking really Oliver Twist  

So I'm now going with straight legs and rails - I think it will look all right. Not as nice as splayed legs but better than Oliver Twist splayed legs  

More to follow....

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Paul Chapman (24 Oct 2007)

Didn't get any work done on the table today - went flying instead  Scott was a few hours short of the number necessary to get his ATPL licence, but we completed them today with a three hour flight. This is us taking off from Old Sarum







Back in the workshop tomorrow  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Newbie_Neil (25 Oct 2007)

Hi Paul



Paul Chapman":1dtz5rj3 said:


> This is us taking off from Old Sarum



I don't know much about flying, but I didn't think you should be taking off with any red lights glowing. :lol: 

Cheers,
Neil


----------



## Paul Chapman (25 Oct 2007)

It was all quite safe - that plane has a retractable undercarriage and the light was warning that the wheels were still down (I think :? :? :lol: ).

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## TonyW (25 Oct 2007)

Hi Paul
Think you may be heading towards a new project - building your own plane (flying variety)  

Cheers :wink: 
Tony


----------



## Paul Chapman (25 Oct 2007)

TonyW":2on3tjxu said:


> Think you may be heading towards a new project - building your own plane (flying variety)



Interestingly, on the wall of the clubhouse at Old Sarum there was an article about the bloke - I think his name was Goldfinch - who died not long ago and who designed and built the glider that was planned for the escape from Colditz. Don't think it would fit in my loft :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Pekka Huhta (25 Oct 2007)

TonyW":1yfbd6wp said:


> Hi Paul
> Think you may be heading towards a new project - building your own plane (flying variety)
> 
> Cheers :wink:
> Tony



Like this one? 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... :IT&ih=013

(Collectibles > Tools, Hardware & Locks > Tools > Carpentry, Woodworking > Planes)  

Shouldn't be that difficult 

Pekka


----------



## Paul Chapman (25 Oct 2007)

:lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## TonyW (25 Oct 2007)

Pekka - I think that may be too small for Paul  

I was thinking about something like this Build Your Own Sptitfire. Its is available as a flat pack from the land down under. Even had the idea that you could save delivery costs by building there and flying it back home  

OK Ill get my coat  

Cheers  
Tony


----------



## DaveL (25 Oct 2007)

Paul Chapman":zuzlh6c2 said:


> OK, Dave, you can stop biting your nails - I've given up on the splayed legs  I've been trying all day but can't get it quite right. A fraction of a degree out on the compound angle throws the legs right out, and that will have a knock-on effect with the rails and it will end up looking really Oliver Twist
> 
> So I'm now going with straight legs and rails - I think it will look all right. Not as nice as splayed legs but better than Oliver Twist splayed legs


Sorry Paul, I was not trying to stop you doing the splayed legs, just I had the same sort of experience as you, ](*,) I am sure straight legs will be fine. 8)


----------



## Paul Chapman (25 Oct 2007)

DaveL":2m76zksx said:


> Paul Chapman":2m76zksx said:
> 
> 
> > OK, Dave, you can stop biting your nails - I've given up on the splayed legs  I've been trying all day but can't get it quite right. A fraction of a degree out on the compound angle throws the legs right out, and that will have a knock-on effect with the rails and it will end up looking really Oliver Twist
> ...



Well, Dave, Rob (Woodbloke) popped in today for a chat and we discussed the table and the splayed legs and various ways of doing it. I think he's talked me back into splayed legs (which is how I really want to do them) so I'll have another go tomorrow.

So start biting your nails again  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## woodbloke (27 Oct 2007)

TonyW":1iuy8qga said:


> Pekka - I think that may be too small for Paul
> 
> I was thinking about something like this Build Your Own Sptitfire. Its is available as a flat pack from the land down under. Even had the idea that you could save delivery costs by building there and flying it back home
> 
> ...



Just to deviate a fraction, I heard a while ago (a year maybe) of an ordinary housewife somewhere in the UK who was building a full size Spitfire, which she intended to fly, from scratch using the original plans....in her double garage at home :shock: . I think I've got the story about right, but knowing my memory, I may be *completely* off the beaten. Anyone heard anything about this? - Rob


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## Paul Chapman (27 Oct 2007)

Not heard of that one, Rob, but this site's interesting. It's about Carolyn Grace, who is the only current female Spitfire pilot in the World. I think the Spitfire (a two-seater) belonged to her husband and when he died she decided to keep it going http://www.ml407.co.uk/pages/main.html

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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