# Woodturning Chisel Sharpening Jigs.



## Blucher (15 Feb 2014)

I am looking at purchasing one of these items
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/wood...286&&clkid=4853210409943009763&_qi=RTM1575341

What is the general opinion of the forum about these devices. To get the best out of your tools they need to be sharp, and I know I am not all that good on grindstones.
My main concern about this item is that if the tip of the tool were to accidentally "dig in" to the stone, unlike the throwback you would likely get if the item was simply hand held, on this item there is no backward movement to go, and it is possible (imho) that with no place to go, the tool would simply dig in to the stone causing the stone to explode. Is this not therefore a potentially dangerous woodworking tool..


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## Spindle (15 Feb 2014)

Hi

This type of sharpening jig is in common use - however I do share your concerns regarding what may happen in the event of a dig in, (the greater the angle being ground the more chance there will be of an occurrence). If I were to go down this sharpening route I'd consider reversing the direction of the grinding wheels, (by spinning the base 180 degrees), there are associated issues when doing this, spark and debris shielding, edge overheating on carbon steel, but I'd prefer to work through these rather than worry about a dig in.

Regards Mick


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## nev (15 Feb 2014)

Yes they can dig in and yes they do, DAMHIKT
I now use the tiltable platform for all (bowl, roughing, flat scraper, round scraper, parting tools) gouges bar spindle gouges.


Edit: In fairness to the gent on ebay I had my mishap with the Wolverine jig, not one of his.


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## Spindle (15 Feb 2014)

Hi

Having had Nev confirm my suspicions that these systems can cause dig ins it's 'comforting' to see the system advertised in use with the wheel guard removed :shock: :shock: 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/wood-lathe-ch ... RTM1575341

Regards Mick


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## MMUK (15 Feb 2014)

Spindle":1vpi9zya said:


> Hi
> 
> Having had Nev confirm my suspicions that these systems can cause dig ins it's 'comforting' to see the system advertised in use with the wheel guard removed :shock: :shock:
> 
> ...




That looks REALLY safe :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:


Surely an easier and cheaper option would be to have an adjustable angled rest in front of the wheel?


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## blackrodd (15 Feb 2014)

I'm firmly in the grinding the proper way by hand, I've never had a dig in yet!
Some of this kit looks really dangerous, and perhaps ought not be for sale

Regards Rodders


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## Grahamshed (15 Feb 2014)

From what I can see this jig doesn't look any different, or more dangerous, than the many other similar big name ones that cost a great deal more.
Seems like a pretty good deal to me.


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## MMUK (15 Feb 2014)

Maybe so but from what I can see that eBay one is bloody lethal!


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## Grahamshed (15 Feb 2014)

How is it different to the Wolverine and all the others ? Ok the guards are off the wheel but that may just be for clearer photos


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## Spindle (15 Feb 2014)

Grahamshed":2pezu448 said:


> How is it different to the Wolverine and all the others ? Ok the guards are off the wheel but that may just be for clearer photos



Hi

I don't think it is fundamentally different from other versions but in my opinion all versions have the potential to dig in.

Oh!! and I'd suggest the guard has been removed because the wheel width is too large :wink: :wink: 

Regards Mick


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## procell (15 Feb 2014)

An alternative solution is to go for a wet stone system. This has the advantage that the stone is rotating in the opposite direction, its rotating a lot slower and as it is water cooled at all times you don't risk over heating the tool. The down side is they are more expensive and the jigs for sharpening turning tools are extras and not cheap either. I am very happy with the Jet system I have but have plumped for the Tormek jigs as they seem better designed and built.


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## Woodmonkey (15 Feb 2014)

I've got one of these, it works well. If used at the correct angle I don't think a dig in would occur, as Mick says its no different from other available sharpening jigs. Because of the nature of the jig it is repeatable every time, so if it doesn't dig in the first time you use it there's no reason it will the next time.


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## nicguthrie (15 Feb 2014)

I use the Tormek (water wheel) type jigs, with an adapter to make then compatible with my work sharp grinder/sharpener. Works like a dream, no potential for dig in.

These jigs can also be used with "normal" grinding wheels etc, there are many appropriate conversion kits. The shape of the jigs seemed "safer" to me than the wolverine style, and seemed to allow you closer to the tool tip, to see what's going on. 

Jet make a similar system for half the price or less than the Tormek ones. I chose the Tormek over the jet simply because the most complex jet one - for bowl gouges etc requires held firmly in place, whereas the Tormek's equivalent joint is captive in use.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


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## Robbo3 (16 Feb 2014)

I presume the guard has been removed because the seller has added a wide wheel to the grinder.

At £30 + £6 p&p I would bite his hand off. The APTC Storme is nearly £97 but does have more parts & a better gouge holder.

The only tool you will struggle with on the system as it stands, is a wide skew where the handle really needs to be outside the centre line for the bevel to be horizontal across the wheel - but it's not difficult to make an additional support with a socket on either side. For another £30 you can have an adjustable flat table.

One thing to watch for with this type of gouge holder is how it centralizes the gouge. If it only relies on the threaded rod locating in the flute, then it is possible that the gouge tip can be off to one side. Tormek, Sorby, ect. overcome this problem by using an inverted top hat washer that rests across the top of the gouge to level it. A suitably sized washer or flat piece of metal for example, can also be used but is more fiddly. I say suitable sized because the washer may hit the sides of the jig before a small gouge is clamped. 

If at a later date you decide that the gouge jig is too basic, or perhaps you want to make your own, then the system will allow you to change without any problems.


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## Grahamshed (16 Feb 2014)

I have been thinking about the Sorby Pro edge but the price of that against a bog standard bench grinder ( or the axe slow one ) plus this for £30 make it difficult to justify.


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## Jacob (16 Feb 2014)

Grahamshed":3cccmj6z said:


> I have been thinking about the Sorby Pro edge but the price of that against a bog standard bench grinder ( or the axe slow one ) plus this for £30 make it difficult to justify.


It gives a flat bevel for a start, which is a big advantage. The deep hollow grind of a 6" bench grinder is not good IMHO. It's also easy to use freehand, either using the rest or nothing at all, and saves fiddling about with jigs. Previously I was using a belt sander but there is a fire risk - mainly the risk of destroying the machine itself with sparks on plastic casings.


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## Grahamshed (16 Feb 2014)

Jacob":r0u8bymb said:


> Grahamshed":r0u8bymb said:
> 
> 
> > I have been thinking about the Sorby Pro edge but the price of that against a bog standard bench grinder ( or the axe slow one ) plus this for £30 make it difficult to justify.
> ...


Thanks for that Jacob. I WAS looking for justification really.


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## Rhossydd (16 Feb 2014)

Whilst the eBay jig is good value compared to similar retail products, I too share the OP's concern about the risks of that style of jig. Whilst carefully used it's probably a good reliable way to sharpen tools, one moment of distraction or heavy handedness could have grim consequences.

As an alternative have you considered building your own jig system ?
When I first started turning I built a system that has worked well for me and cost effectively nothing.
The grinder is mounted on a base block (as most systems need). Then I made a dovetailed slot in a piece of spare PAR timber that ran across the front of the grinder square to the wheels screwed down to the base.
Then I made blocks with dovetailed bases that slide into the slot on the base as needed. One for scrapers, a couple for gouges at different angles. Tools are just held against the blocks and brought up to the wheel to sharpen.
The dovetail holds the block at a fixed distance from the wheel and there's no flex in the blocks to speak of (unlike some of the platform style jigs I've tried).

The picture below shows the system I've just discarded after 25yrs. Yes, it looks rubbish now, but the idea works fine. I ditched it because the grinding wheels had finally worn down so far that the grinding angles have drifted too far off, plus, as you can see, the base has suffered some damage. I'm just starting to build a new system with a few refinements.


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## Grahamshed (16 Feb 2014)

An interesting concept and relatively easy to make by the look of it. What refinements d you have planned for the mark 2 ?


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## Rhossydd (16 Feb 2014)

Grahamshed":2vedgpli said:


> What refinements d you have planned for the mark 2 ?


Making it look nicer ? ;-)

Seriously: Building the base from something more substantial chipboard, adding some sort of fingernail grind jig, plus generally making the whole thing more carefully.
Given the slap dash method of construction, it's delivered fantastic service for far longer than I'd anticipated. Sometimes simple works well.


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## Lexx (16 Feb 2014)

Now don't be teasing us like that and keep us hanging, I was about to start into something similar, but will be very interested in seeing what the Mk II brings, and like many things it doesnt matter what it looks like jigs are function over form every time


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## Rhossydd (16 Feb 2014)

Lexx":y4c4znda said:


> Now don't be teasing us like that and keep us hanging, I was about to start into something similar, but will be very interested in seeing what the Mk II brings,


Don't hold your breath, it's not top of the 'To do' list at the moment. I'll try to post details when it's finished though.


> and like many things it doesnt matter what it looks like jigs are function over form every time


Yes, but working with something that doesn't look a complete dog's dinner just makes working more pleasurable. In turn, I think that helps you work better too.


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## Lexx (16 Feb 2014)

Its not the top of my list either, but one of those must get around to items, have to get a new stone for my grinder and with the price of them, it will be a while yet 

It doesnt look like a dogs dinner, nothing a bit of sandpaper wouldn't cure if it really bothered you


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## Dalboy (16 Feb 2014)

Take a look at this http://www.turningtools.co.uk/widgets/grindingjig/wtsharpen.pdf


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## Blucher (16 Feb 2014)

Having looked at the various replies, my timidity in purchasing one of these jigs would appear justified. Yes I have watched the videos using most of these jigs you mention, yet they all neglect to include the fundamental principle rammed into my brain during my metalwork/woodwork classes, that to control the tool there must be a supporting bar close to the cutting face of the tool, minimising its distance as much as possible from the grinding face of the stone. This is so that the downward pressure at the end of the handle will prevent tip, which contributes to dig in. 
Yes, with good strong pressure on the end of the handle, pivoting about a close set solid mounted tool tip, you could get away with a gourge or a chip lump flying from the stone, but if you study the arc of travel of the cutting face, with its handle end suspended in the jig pocket (the centre point of ark) the penetration is to 3/4 depth into the stone if handle remains in the fixed position, and the thought of this quick snatch (even on the bowl end tool is it called?) the pressure for cutting has to be so light, I guess to someone who has been using the jig for some time, they will know how much to apply, but for the rookie like me, well I guess I would be the first in hospital.
So, I guess after some verification of my fears I will be making a similar jig to Rhossydd when I get set up, in conjunction with a Wetstone as Procell suggested for the reasons given.
Oh, by the way, I think the video/write up said that the jig operator had cut away the guard so that full operation of the jig could be effected. As you will guess, I have been a safety rep in industry during my younger days in the Chemical Industry, a dangerous enough environment as it is to begin with. Cutting away safety gear from a machine is not a good idea as a press shop operator at Fords nearby where I live found to his dismay who cut off and removed the hand-guard plate from one of the press machines so he could turn out the body parts quicker, and distracted for just a split second got ALL his fingers chopped off as the press came down. Ignore safety and it will bite you in the buttocks.


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## Grahamshed (16 Feb 2014)

Blucher":s47wvzwb said:


> and distracted for just a split second got ALL his fingers chopped off as the press came down. Ignore safety and it will bite you in the buttocks.


No laughing matter I know but you have to ask what his fingers were doing there


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## redmoorphil (16 Feb 2014)

I'm looking for my first sharpening system and the Sorby Pro Edge looks good to me too but HOW MUCH!
Massive rip off for what is basically a belt sander but the results look good and easy to achieve.
Other options I am looking at are the wolverine (or clone) and the Tru-Grind (which is currently top of my list).
I can't use my new lathe until I get some sort of sharpening system and I just can't afford one at the moment so I will have to just look at my lathe and polish it a lot!
After looking at my bench grinder I find that it runs at 4500 RPM so I will probably need a new one of those too.
How on earth do you guys afford woodturning? It seems to be a bottomless pit.


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## Spindle (16 Feb 2014)

Hi Phil

Just mount a disc of MDF to your faceplate and stick some abrasive to it - grind your tools on that until you decide what system to go for.

Regards Mick


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## Grahamshed (16 Feb 2014)

redmoorphil":2v2mh3ev said:


> the Sorby Pro Edge looks good to me too but HOW MUCH!


Heart attack territory isn't it . 
Not sure just how much of a rip of it is though.
I haven't actually seen one yet but I am guessing since it is designed to be showered with rather warm sparks it is a bit more than just an ordinary plastic belt sander. (as Jacob pointed out ) and the angle holding plate is hopefully strong enough to be usable..... Nyst go to tool post and have a look at one soon


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## redmoorphil (16 Feb 2014)

Thanks for that mick - never thought about using the lathe! Duhh!
I am already changing my mind about the tru grind and I am keen on the sorby again. Damn you YouTube!
I guess that by the time I have bought a jig, grinder and decent wheel I am not too far off the sorby price anyway.
Doesn't really matter if it's overpriced, I need to think about the results and consider it an investment that will save me the cost of new chisels.
I think it's time for mr credit card to come out of the wallet.
It's on sale at yandles with free postage which makes it cheapest I can find unless anybody knows different?


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## Spindle (16 Feb 2014)

Grahamshed":2r53vwco said:


> Heart attack territory isn't it .



Hi

Cheer yourself up - go price up the full Tormek woodturning package  

I am, however, glad I bit the bullet and went with Tormek  

Regards Mick


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## Grahamshed (16 Feb 2014)

The other benefit of the sorby is that you can get really fine belts for it ( and they are apparently quick to change ) for giving your tools that little extra polish.


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## Jacob (16 Feb 2014)

Grahamshed":1vq9m6jd said:


> redmoorphil":1vq9m6jd said:
> 
> 
> > the Sorby Pro Edge looks good to me too but HOW MUCH!
> ...


Pricey yes, but well made and convenient to use. 
People assume jigs are necessary but they aren't at all. It doesn't take long to get it right and the few mistakes you make are just part of the learning curve. Things go wrong with jigs too.


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## Grahamshed (16 Feb 2014)

So why is it less of a fire risk than a belt sander Jacob ? ( haven't seen one yet )


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## redmoorphil (16 Feb 2014)

Well the sorby is sitting in my basket together with the proset gauge and the long grind attachment for just under £325 delivered from poolewood. Just can't bring myself to press that Button yet though! It hinges on how long I can hide the credit card bill from the boss.


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## Grahamshed (16 Feb 2014)

redmoorphil":2sywv6vh said:


> Well the sorby is sitting in my basket together with the proset gauge and the long grind attachment for just under £325 delivered from poolewood. Just can't bring myself to press that Button yet though! It hinges on how long I can hide the credit card bill from the boss.


So it is now more than two hours later.....
Did you press it ?


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## cedarwood (16 Feb 2014)

Grahamshed":3kd8fsjb said:


> I have been thinking about the Sorby Pro edge but the price of that against a bog standard bench grinder ( or the axe slow one ) plus this for £30 make it difficult to justify.



I used to use the axi slow wet grinder with the sorby 447 universal jig and it was to say the least not very good so bit the bullet and bought the pro edge and now sharpening my tools is a doddle


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## redmoorphil (16 Feb 2014)

Oh what the heck! . . . And the monkey flicks the switch :wink: 

At least I can get on with the rest of my life now, until the next thing I discover I need!


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## Grahamshed (16 Feb 2014)

redmoorphil":ofp71cc8 said:


> Oh what the heck! . . . And the monkey flicks the switch :wink:
> 
> At least I can get on with the rest of my life now, until the next thing I discover I need!


So what happens now ? If you suddenly go quiet do we tell the men in blue that SWMBO found out ?


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## MMUK (16 Feb 2014)

I think using a horizontal wet grinder with a jig would be much safer.

I'm thinking about getting the Draper http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/230v-Wet-D ... wwodGFgA6Q


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## CHJ (16 Feb 2014)

MMUK":3c2tbc7b said:


> I think using a horizontal wet grinder with a jig would be much safer.
> 
> I'm thinking about getting the Draper http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/230v-Wet-D ... wwodGFgA6Q



Wet stone of no use whatsoever for turning tools, polished edge on chisels and plane blades maybe if you make up more robust tool rests, the supplied plastic rests flex too easily, and the stone is ultra fine grade, you certainly won't be able to easily make any form of fingernail jig that is convenient to use.
The small diameter white wheel will put a very difficult to work with bevel radius on any gouges.


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## redmoorphil (16 Feb 2014)

Well fortunately SWMBO is immobile for the next 6 weeks so I have time to formulate a plan!
Unfortunately, I rarely succeed so I might be turning myself a new pair!
At least my singing voice will improve.


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## Sheptonphil (16 Feb 2014)

MMUK":81l1pe8z said:


> I think using a horizontal wet grinder with a jig would be much safer.
> 
> I'm thinking about getting the Draper http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/230v-Wet-D ... wwodGFgA6Q


The first time you sharpen a gouge with it you will have a grove running the whole surface. How to you intend re-flattening the surface? You can't use a diamond trueing tool. Most turning tools you will sharpen will groove it to one extent or another and it will end up like a ploughed field. 

Every three or four weeks I have to re true my wet wheel sharpening system. No problem, but a job that needs doing. 

Phil


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## Jacob (17 Feb 2014)

Grahamshed":14r9kg1v said:



> So why is it less of a fire risk than a belt sander Jacob ? ( haven't seen one yet )


All metal and open construction. On my belt sander the sparks go round with the belt and blast at the same spot of the casing, where there might also be accumulated dust.


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## Grahamshed (17 Feb 2014)

Thanks Jacob. I was hoping you would say it was all metal.


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## Grahamshed (17 Feb 2014)

redmoorphil":25o8270l said:


> Well fortunately SWMBO is immobile for the next 6 weeks so I have time to formulate a plan!
> Unfortunately, I rarely succeed so I might be turning myself a new pair!
> At least my singing voice will improve.


I am sure there will be a welcome in the hillsides (hammer) (hammer)


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## Blucher (17 Feb 2014)

nev":3ez0w62h said:


> Yes they can dig in and yes they do, DAMHIKT
> I now use the tiltable platform for all (bowl, roughing, flat scraper, round scraper, parting tools) gouges bar spindle gouges.
> 
> 
> Edit: In fairness to the gent on ebay I had my mishap with the Wolverine jig, not one of his.



What does DAMHIKT mean (sorry newb-itus I am afraid).

Also SWiMBO ??


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## nicguthrie (17 Feb 2014)

I'd be interested in hearing how you get on with the Sorby system.

I wasn't keen on it as it seemed expensive when I first looked at it, but once I figure in all the spare parts, abrasives and jigs that I've bought for my Worksharp 3000, I've spent about the same as the cost of the full Pro Edge kit. I find the WS3k excellent, though the working surface feels a little small at times when working with long and wide scrapers and bowl gouges etc. 

The Pro Edge has all the same advantages as the WS3k that I use, except that the changing the abrasive belt seems a bit fiddly if you've dinged an edge and need to cycle down through a few grits, whereas on the worksharp, it's about as complicated as changing an old vinyl record.

I'd quite honestly be very interested in hearing how you find it, in case I ever need to change from the kit I have (You never know). Any chance you might put a set-up and use review up after a while?

On the bonus side, if you find you want to get extra grits, Micromesh MX is fantastic for putting a finishing edge on metal, and if you know the dimensions of the belt, there's an online shop at http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Micro-Mesh-Belts.html that may have the size that you need. They're pretty cheap too, for micromesh (it's usually pretty damn pricy)

Blucher, SWMBO stands for She Who Must Be Obeyed, AKA The Missus 
DAMHIKT stands for Don't Ask Me How I Know That - a Useful phrase for distancing one's self a little from dodginess of all sorts :wink: 

Nic.


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## finneyb (17 Feb 2014)

I use a similar jig. Never had a dig in. 
But then again I don't press down hard it wastes too much expensive steel. 


Brian


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## redmoorphil (17 Feb 2014)

Yandles called and left a message this morning so just called them back, they sold out of the pro edge this weekend after selling 5 units unexpectedly (must be lurkers on the thread!) but they will get more in early next week so gives me time to finish organising the workshop.
Fortunately SWMBO can't even get to the phone or they might have blown it for me :roll:


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## nicguthrie (17 Feb 2014)

There's always other retailers 

http://www.stilesandbates.co.uk/browse. ... 86/level/4

And it's even cheaper than Yandles here:
http://www.ockenden-timber.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=107_140_141 (tho, TBH I don't know if that's inc VAT or not)

Nic.


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## Grahamshed (17 Feb 2014)

Not sure that anybody selling sanding belts per say would have ones to fit the pro edge as the belts are only 2 inches wide.
Toolpost however do do a selection of cheaper ordinary belts and finer posh ones.


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## nicguthrie (17 Feb 2014)

There's 11 different lengths of 2" wide belts at that sylmasta link for micromesh, But I've no idea what length the pro edge system takes, so there may not be a fully compatible one.


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## Grahamshed (17 Feb 2014)

Thats good to know. I have read somewhere how long the belt is but cannot find it now. The Sorby site lists belts down to 3000 grit though.


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## redmoorphil (17 Feb 2014)

Hi Nic, I went for the pro edge plus version and also ordered the pro set gauge and the long grind adapter so yandles worked out best price as everybody else I looked at charged delivery. Poolewood said it was £5.99 delivery on site but at checkout this shot up to £12.99 so just went back to yandles. I did look at the retailers you mentioned and many others but couldn't get any cheaper than the one I ordered.
Not in a great rush so next week is fine for me.


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## nicguthrie (17 Feb 2014)

Fair enough, I just thought you might like another option if you had to get it purchased before SWMBO veto's the idea! :wink: 

I've been stung by the phantom delivery costs myself a few times, there's one site that offered me a set of clamps for £5.95 delivery, only to bounce that figure up to £25+ as soon as I logged in and went through the checkout process...

@Grahamsled: I bookmarked the sylmasta site for the micromesh belts, cos they do 1" by 18" versions at about £1.90 each. That's the exact size that the Work sharp Knife sharpening attachment takes, and the official versions, due to having only one official distributor in this country, cost £17 for six belts in only 3 grits. They seem to do more variety in Micromesh than any other retailer I've seen so far.

Look forward to hearing how the pro edge system works out for you.

Nic.

Edit: @Grahamsled, just noticed your comment about 3000 grit! Very nice! I wonder how that "translates"? I know Micromesh MX 1200 grit is equivalent to 3 micron but with every manufacturer using different standards, and with Micromesh they even change the standard from type to type, it get's hard to directly compare... Needless to say they'd both put a nice shiny edge on 

http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/conversion.htm


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## Jacob (18 Feb 2014)

Grahamshed":nzqf46hn said:


> Thats good to know. I have read somewhere how long the belt is but cannot find it now. The Sorby site lists belts down to 3000 grit though.


I only use a coarse belt, for shaping a new bevel and do everything else by hand on oil stones, or hone on leather etc. The fine belts will blue an edge very easily but the coarse run cool.


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## Grahamshed (18 Feb 2014)

Jacob":2qa6wih3 said:


> Grahamshed":2qa6wih3 said:
> 
> 
> > Thats good to know. I have read somewhere how long the belt is but cannot find it now. The Sorby site lists belts down to 3000 grit though.
> ...


 :lol: I have so much to learn.


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## Spindle (18 Feb 2014)

Jacob":js5hm0m2 said:


> The fine belts will blue an edge very easily but the coarse run cool.



Hi

Whilst I wouldn't condone purposely blueing edges when sharpening it's worth bearing in mind that high speed steel is manufactured to have a continuous working temperature of up to 600 degrees Celcius, (at this temperature it will be red hot). Blueing the edge of a high speed steel tool will not significantly affect it's cutting ability or edge retention.

This, however is NOT the case for carbon tool steels which will lose their temper if the edge is overheated during sharpening.

Regards Mick


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## nicguthrie (18 Feb 2014)

Jacob":3f07we7u said:


> I only use a coarse belt, for shaping a new bevel and do everything else by hand on oil stones, or hone on leather etc. The fine belts will blue an edge very easily but the coarse run cool.



TBH, I normally just use plain 240 or 400 grit abrasive myself too for most turning tools.

I only use the finer grits on the skew and shear scrapers. My really fine grits are reserved for a once-in-a-while fix-up of my hand chisels and plane blades, and the micro mesh belts I mentioned, are for my kitchen knives and pocket knives. I like those to have a nice gleam for appearances sake, as well as being very sharp.

I'd love to see your technique for sharpening a fingernail profile, free hand, with an oilstone! I'll bet that took a helluvva lot of practice 

As for fine belts blueing edges, it's something that I've never managed to do, as normally the fine belt is used last, in short bursts for the finishing touches, or just for refining the very edge. Light touches and short contacts, and yer not gonna blue even carbon steel.

@redmoorphil One thing I like about the Pro Edge is that you can do knives etc on the same belt. On my worksharp I need the knife adapter, it's not ideal, but it works very well.

I'd much appreciate a review when you get it up and running. All the reviews I've ever seen for it have been from Robert Sorby marketting reps.

Nic.


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## Jacob (18 Feb 2014)

nicguthrie":rzd2tlww said:


> ....
> I'd love to see your technique for sharpening a fingernail profile, free hand, with an oilstone! I'll bet that took a helluvva lot of practice ....


I meant other tools. Coarse machine grind for turning gouges, though I suppose you could easily fettle the edge on an oil stone if you wanted to, it's not difficult - a sideways swipe and twist. :shock:
People do seem to want to believe that things are difficult. Just an excuse for more shopping!


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