# concealed hinge jig



## chippy1970

I posted a few days back about using a 35mm cutter in a router to cut holes for concealed hinges as I have always used a battery drill and a forstener bit. Anyway I went a different route and made a jig out of some phenolic I had. It works with a 30mm guide bush and a 12.7mm cutter the same set up as for a worktop jig. I have done something similar before but just a temporary thing with scraps of MDF this one should last longer. 

The blocks on the underside work as a fence and rotate to give you either 3,4,5 or 6mm from the edge of the door. With the router connected to my extractor there is hardly any mess unlike when I use a drill it goes everywhere.


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## jedmc571

Love it mate :wink: 

That'll be round long after your cutter wears out :lol: :lol: 

Like the offset idea as well, very simple.

cheers

Jed


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## JoinerySolutions

What he said \/ 

:-k What about scribing a centre line so you can quickly place it in the correct position. Or did you centre the hole in the plate at the required setback from the edge (does that make sense??)?
Rob.


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## chippy1970

JoinerySolutions":372bs9nr said:


> What he said \/
> 
> :-k What about scribing a centre line so you can quickly place it in the correct position. Or did you centre the hole in the plate at the required setback from the edge (does that make sense??)?
> Rob.



It does have a line scribed on the edge of the hole for lining up but you cant see it in the photo. I must admit now I have used it I do find it a bit slow, its dust free with extraction connected but slow. I always worry when using jigs like this because of past mistakes when either I have routed to deep when the depth gauge works loose :shock: or the jig itself moves.

I think a dedicated 35mm bit with some sort of jig might be better but my jig comes 2nd to that


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## Sportique

Chippy,

not being familiar with the terminology - "concealed hinge" - is that what I would call a "kitchen cupboard hinge" and if so, how do I work out how far from the edge to drill the 35mm hole? Does this depend upon overlay-doors vs inset-doors? and also does it depend upon the thickness of the MDF (or whatever) used for the sides of the cabinet?   

Sorry about all the questions but they do relate to the OP.

Thanks

Dave


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## Racers

Hi,

I have a 35mm TCT cutter and 1/2" adaptor so I can use it in my router, with the fence on I just plunge in and its done.

Pete


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## trumpetmonkey

Sportique":p6y4hhwf said:


> Chippy,
> 
> not being familiar with the terminology - "concealed hinge" - is that what I would call a "kitchen cupboard hinge" and if so, how do I work out how far from the edge to drill the 35mm hole? Does this depend upon overlay-doors vs inset-doors? and also does it depend upon the thickness of the MDF (or whatever) used for the sides of the cabinet?
> 
> Sorry about all the questions but they do relate to the OP.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Dave



I also would like general advice on kitchen hinges/concealed hinges/european hinges (as they're called in America!)

I want to use them on inset doors -what's the deal with that? Is there a good resource explaining hinge types and usage variations?


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## chippy1970

Sportique":17ckcur0 said:


> Chippy,
> 
> not being familiar with the terminology - "concealed hinge" - is that what I would call a "kitchen cupboard hinge" and if so, how do I work out how far from the edge to drill the 35mm hole? Does this depend upon overlay-doors vs inset-doors? and also does it depend upon the thickness of the MDF (or whatever) used for the sides of the cabinet?
> 
> Sorry about all the questions but they do relate to the OP.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Dave



Yes they are kitchen hinges , i cannot give a detailed answer as im typing this on my mobile right now but if you google hafele they have charts showing all dimensions for everything you need.


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## Sportique

Chippy,

thanks for the link, that is a good starting point.

I see now why you need 3,4,5 and 6mm offsets.

Dave


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## trumpetmonkey

Yes Hafele are good, I now order from them regularly. 

Easiest method is get this cheap plastic marking jig:

http://www.hafele.co.uk/Hafele35a1/Temp ... and+hinges

And if you want to be sure of drilling vertically with a TCT hole borer get this:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... prod22269/

(It's better than a wolfcraft alternative which has recently been discontinued in the uk anyway)


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## Sportique

trumpetmonkey":1cr2yyi2 said:


> Yes Hafele are good, I now order from them regularly.
> 
> Easiest method is get this cheap plastic marking jig:
> 
> http://www.hafele.co.uk/Hafele35a1/Temp ... and+hinges
> 
> And if you want to be sure of drilling vertically with a TCT hole borer get this:
> 
> http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... prod22269/
> 
> (It's better than a wolfcraft alternative which has recently been discontinued in the uk anyway)



TM,

thanks for the links and update, the template looks useful

Dave


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## Paul Chapman

Woodfit also provide much useful information on fitting concealed hinges http://www.woodfit.com/index.php?cPath= ... nformation

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Sportique

Paul Chapman":mxoctt6f said:


> Woodfit also provide much useful information on fitting concealed hinges http://www.woodfit.com/index.php?cPath= ... nformation
> 
> Cheers :wink:
> 
> Paul



Aha that's the one Paul thanks =D> =D> 

Dave


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## Streepips

In the process of making a dozen MDF cabinet doors, all 21" X 6`6" so 4 Blum hinges per.
The way I cut out the 35mm holes is a Multico PM12 bench morticer fitted with the optional drill chuck and a Forstner bit, that is solely used for this purpose. I have a floorstanding morticer and a Pillar drill as well so I can afford to just use the Multico for this.
I have an 8 foot long bench with a tool well that is made to accept the Multico base so that its top surface is level with the bench top, This means that when the doors are in place to be drilleed on the bench they have a substantial support both sides, even when cutting the endmost hinge holes. Obviously the Multico is placed centrally along the length of the bench so the support area is equal on both sides.
When done the Multico is simply unplugged and lifted off the bench and back into its cubby hole.
By far the easiest safest and most controllable way to do this job.


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## dddd

Looks very handy, what did you use to cut the hole?


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## chippy1970

@dddd

I just cut the hole with my router and a suitable guide bush, it was a bit of messing about with various offcuts of wood and different size guide bushes until you get a hole the right size. You could get an adjustable hole cutter.


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