# Matt plastic finish for MDF?



## justsomegeek (16 Jul 2011)

Hi Folks,

I've just joined, so please be gentle. 

I'm currently half-way through Star-Trek TNG again and would like to emulate some of the prop finishes for a few experiments.

I seem to remember reading that most of the scenery is just wood that has been painted and finished to look like plastic panels etc.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to achieve this sort of finish, and is MDF the right material?

Any other pointers towards prop-making and effects also appreciated. 

Thanks!


----------



## mailee (16 Jul 2011)

I am not sure about a plastic coating for MDF but I would have thought you could make it look plasticy by using an AC laquer. They have a range of colours to choose from. You would have to spray them of course. HTH.


----------



## justsomegeek (17 Jul 2011)

Thanks for the reply.

I did guess i would have to spray some sort of paint/laquer. I just had a read up and watched a few vids on AC lacquer, and it looks to be beyond my budget and skillset for the time being. I think i'll have to settle for a lot of sanding and some matt/satin brush painting for a while.

Cheers,
Glenn


----------



## Shrubby (21 Jul 2011)

Glenn
Try using the green MR grade mdf its less fluffy and easier to get a good finish. fill edges with two part filler like P38 and plenty of sanding - Abranet hand blocks are good - less dust and clogged grit. For paint finishing try spray cans from motor factors or halfords, with practice you'll get a good finish (lots of prop and modelmakers use them)
Matt


----------



## Shane (21 Jul 2011)

You could always try a roller and a matt emulsion on mdf


----------



## krismusic (25 Jul 2011)

Shrubby":1at4xa9x said:


> Glenn
> Try using the green MR grade mdf its less fluffy and easier to get a good finish. fill edges with two part filler like P38 and plenty of sanding - Abranet hand blocks are good - less dust and clogged grit. For paint finishing try spray cans from motor factors or halfords, with practice you'll get a good finish (lots of prop and modelmakers use them)
> Matt


A model maker once gave me a tip about spray cans. Put them in a bath of hot water for a short time to increase the pressure of the propellant.


----------



## Setch (25 Jul 2011)

it's a good tip, but not for the reason stated. It actually warms the finish, so that it becomes thinner, atomises better and is less prone to spitting.


----------



## krismusic (25 Jul 2011)

Setch":3tscim9p said:


> it's a good tip, but not for the reason stated. It actually warms the finish, so that it becomes thinner, atomises better and is less prone to spitting.


Fair play.  At least I was not completely wrong!


----------



## justsomegeek (1 Aug 2011)

Wow, thanks for all the replies and the tips guys. I will pass the spray tips on to my boy for his warhammer addiction too.

I have plenty of MDF scraps to try some of this.

Cheers!
Glenn


----------



## bainsk8 (1 Aug 2011)

OK I can help you, first off if you use mdf all edges that are exposed will need to be primed with 2 coats of an oil based undercoat, do this prior to painting the whole panels. The first and second prime would need to be thinned with white spirit by about 20% if using an undercoat just so it soaks in and gets a hold, on the second coat it is a good idea to paint the whole board both sides. You would do this even if one side is showing, the reason being is to reduce surface tension where the MDF can warp.

After you have primed and its dried, sand the mdf with silicon carbide sand paper 120 grade and clean off with a tack rag/cloth. 

If you want a mat finish use two coats of an oil base undercoat, (they can be mixed in colours at most paint suppliers). If you wanted a semi shine finish then either use two coats of oil based eggshell or satin wood, if you want a high gloss then use an oil based undercoat followed by two coats of gloss. Remembering to sand in between coats and tack off.

The trick to get the finish really flat like plastic is to use a foam roller and mix a small amount of Owatrol Oil with your paint after the primer coats, this will reduce the orange peel effect from the roller and will help the paint lay flat like plastic. mixing ratios for the Owatrol Oil will be on the side of can. Try not to roll over wet paint for too long, get it on and spread it out quickly and let the Owatrol Oil do the rest but try not to flood the surface either.

I'm a painter and decorator with 23 years experience and this is how I can get a front door painted with a brush, using a gloss finish to look like a mirror.

If your tempted to go green and use Acrylic then forget it, you will never get it to look right unless you spray and/or use the best products coming from USA. Unfortunately the UK is way behind other countries with acrylic/water based painting systems. 

Good luck!


----------



## justsomegeek (2 Aug 2011)

Thanks Bainsk, some great info there, especially the explanation of why to paint both sides. I'd never have thought of it.

Thank you!
Glenn


----------

