# Wenge and high gloss bedroom furniture



## Oryxdesign (2 May 2008)

A couple of snaps of the bedroom I've just finished. I haven't got a wide enough lense so the photos don't really do it justice. There is a bit of an optical illusion going on as the robes and drawers look normal depth but are in fact much deeper, about 1500mm for the robes and 800mm for the drawers.


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## tim (3 May 2008)

Looks very nice, but can't believe that the wardrobes are 1500mm deep unless thats an internal dim.

Carpets look rubbish though :wink: ....

Cheers

Tim


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## BradNaylor (3 May 2008)

Another stunning job, OD

I've got to get into this kind of market - what special gear or workshop set up do you need for this kind of work?

Cheers
Dan


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## devonwoody (3 May 2008)

My compliments added as well.

I have just finished working with some wenge and it was hard on blade edges, you must have worn out a whole blade?


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## OPJ (3 May 2008)

Very nice and very clean. Really like the contrast, well done!


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## Oryxdesign (3 May 2008)

devonwoody":3tjj0k1n said:


> My compliments added as well.
> 
> I have just finished working with some wenge and it was hard on blade edges, you must have worn out a whole blade?



Hard on blades and hands, I spent an afternoon in casualty with a septic finger, I would recommend avoiding working with wenge if at all possible.


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## Oryxdesign (3 May 2008)

tim":3ha1gpo3 said:


> Looks very nice, but can't believe that the wardrobes are 1500mm deep unless thats an internal dim.
> 
> Carpets look rubbish though :wink: ....
> 
> ...



They actually go right back into the eves with reverse hanger rails at the bottom that pull out on runners, it's the same illusion with the drawers.


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## Oryxdesign (3 May 2008)

Dan Tovey":nediv6u1 said:


> Another stunning job, OD
> 
> I've got to get into this kind of market - what special gear or workshop set up do you need for this kind of work?
> 
> ...


Dan
I have a sliding tabe saw (a good one) and to be honest thats about it for specialist tools. The large panels are mdf veneered and joined in the corners with a piece of 10mm X 10mm wenge to make them hard wearing and resistant to knocks etc, I made most of those joints on site but I did precut the mitres in the workshop. I found my Veritas bullnose plane invaluable for this work. I sub out my paintwork to a trusted friend, I can paint but not to his standard and my workshop is very small so dust is a problem.


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## wizer (3 May 2008)

fantastic, pls don't show my missus :roll: :wink:


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## Oryxdesign (3 May 2008)

Don't show your Misses I'm just trying to keep it secret from mine, the cobblers wife always goes unshod.

Thank you all for your kind comments.


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## woodbloke (3 May 2008)

Very nice work, I can also vouch that wenge is tough on tool edges and produces evil :evil: splinters if you're not *very* careful, 'specially if when sanding stuff like edges where a slither will suddenly come adrift - Rob


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## Oryxdesign (3 May 2008)

woodbloke":oxu0d4kp said:


> Very nice work, I can also vouch that wenge is tough on tool edges and produces evil :evil: splinters if you're not *very* careful, 'specially if when sanding stuff like edges where a slither will suddenly come adrift - Rob



I did get one splinter that was over an inch long, it's worse as a veneered board, the splinter that went septic was very small ironically.


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## tim (3 May 2008)

Oryxdesign":3ran25k1 said:


> tim":3ran25k1 said:
> 
> 
> > Looks very nice, but can't believe that the wardrobes are 1500mm deep unless thats an internal dim.
> ...



Have you got any pics of the inside? Would love to see them.

Cheers

Tim


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## Oryxdesign (3 May 2008)

I haven't but I will take some once the rest of the house is finished, it'll be a few weeks but I will post them on this thread.


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## TheTiddles (3 May 2008)

What are the doors made from and what process is used to finish them? A friend wants something very similar

Aidan


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## Oryxdesign (3 May 2008)

They're MDF 22mm paint with 2 pack car paint (glasurit).


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## Jake (3 May 2008)

Great stuff as ever - you always get a stunning finish, and your eye for a clean line thoroughly earns the design part of your 'name'.

I wouldn't want this one, but that may partly be the lack of finish in the rest of the room, partly the very opposite colour contrast isn't my thing - amazing work though. 

As someone who does pale imitations - do tell me that the cost would make me shudder.


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## Oryxdesign (3 May 2008)

It wasn't cheap but expense is relative,fitted in a £1.5million 2bed house it was less money than their kitchen (even without appliances), much better built and properly made to measure. I think if you saw it in real life you wouldn't think it was poor value for money, but probably like you I can't afford to fit one in my bedroom.

Edited to say I have just read your profile and I m now sure you can afford one!


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## BradNaylor (4 May 2008)

I'm going to get some car paint and have a play with it on MDF. Which Glasurit product do you recommend?

I'm guessing that the spraying has to carried out in a totally dust-free environment - you mentioned on an earlier thread that you got a body-shop to do yours.

This will present a challenge as my spray booth is in the corner of my workshop!

Cheers
Dan


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## Oryxdesign (4 May 2008)

I'm not much help with the paint work but I do know he insists on one coat of etch primer, two initial coats of primer on just the edges then four coats of primer. Next he puts on as much top coat as required which is 4-6 coats, it's hard to get coverage on sharp edges as the paint runs away from them. Then they get laquered and polished. He hates doing white the most. Hope that helps, good luck.


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## TheTiddles (4 May 2008)

ok, I'm interested in having a play too.

What's the exact process to get them to the spraying stage? How are the edges cut, planed sealed etc...? If that's not a trade secret?

If you did some work in progress pictures somewhen I'd be very gratefull

Aidan


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## Oryxdesign (4 May 2008)

TheTiddles":3mqf4595 said:


> ok, I'm interested in having a play too.
> 
> What's the exact process to get them to the spraying stage? How are the edges cut, planed sealed etc...? If that's not a trade secret?
> 
> ...



I've read loads of stuff on here about what sort of MDF to use etc., admittedly I've even tried some of the suggestions but to be honest the best, cheapest and easiest way I've found is to cut it up and give it to the painter.


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## BradNaylor (5 May 2008)

I'm guessing that you use Moisture Resistant MDF as it is much easier to finish and takes a crisper edge.

I'd be interested to know whether your spray guy uses car primer or wood primer. My inclination would be to use standard 2-pack MDF primer from Morrells Woodfinishes with car paint on top.

This is where the playing about comes in though! Until I try it I don't know what the results are going to be.

A thought occurs...

...is the car paint solvent based or water based? I heard the other week that car manufacturers are using water-based these days. If so, the science in car paints is *way* ahead of that in woodfinishing products.


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## Oryxdesign (5 May 2008)

I've tried MR MDF but I just use Medite now as the painters comment when I asked him how he got on with the MR was "it's nearly as good is it much more expensive?" I've heard lots of people say it's better but I've not found so, the surface is also not as hard.

All the paints he uses are water based car paints (he doesn't know anything about the furniture industry and normally only paints cars). The doors and drawer fronts in this bedroom took over a week for him and his mate to prep and paint, there is a lot of rubbing down between coats. His shop always looks like the colour of my last set of doors. It was this colour for ages!


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## tim (5 May 2008)

What do you do about any onsite alterations or as in the case of the upper plinth in the pink room, fitting marks/ retouching?

I like your cross groove design element very much.

Cheers

Tim


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## Oryxdesign (5 May 2008)

On a job like that one I generally fit it all up and then take it out and get it painted. I'm dead careful not to mark it when refitting.


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## BradNaylor (11 Jun 2008)

I'm carefully re-reading this thread as I've got a high gloss paint job coming up next month and another two to quote for - one of them is for a bedroom like this;






I spoke to my old mate Senior today who also does a fair bit of this type of work - it seems he uses PU paint and burnishes it. This is also the method recommended by Morrells and I've arranged to go for some training in it at their place next week.

I'm fascinated however, by the possibility of getting similar results using a water based car paint.



Oryxdesign":2fcltrqo said:


> I'm not much help with the paint work but I do know he insists on one coat of etch primer, two initial coats of primer on just the edges then four coats of primer. Next he puts on as much top coat as required which is 4-6 coats, it's hard to get coverage on sharp edges as the paint runs away from them. *Then they get laquered and polished.* He hates doing white the most. Hope that helps, good luck.



Do you mean that he uses a clear water based lacquer designed for cars on top of the paint? By 'polished' do you mean burnished?

Sorry to be such a pain with the questions Oryxdesign, but I think you and your mate might have hit on something quite important with this car paint idea. 

Cheers
Dan


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## Oryxdesign (11 Jun 2008)

Dan. It's all car paint ,etch primed, primed, base coat and lacquer. He flats with wet and dry in between coats and polishes at the end with faraclay. Pm me your number if you want to have a chat.

By the way the PU route has been suggested to us but you don't get a finish like this.


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## Lark (12 Jun 2008)

very nice i love the wenge look. the tv is that on plasterboard wall... just i was not sure weather it good idea on 32inch tv.... and not that i like pink but that does look very smart.



i think they might use the G3 compound to get the gloss i seen some ppl get it like a mirror as such.
like this
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1 ... ism104.jpg
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1 ... ism133.jpg


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## BradNaylor (12 Jun 2008)

Oryxdesign":yfkbc3tq said:


> Pm me your number if you want to have a chat.



PM sent


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## Oryxdesign (12 Jun 2008)

Lark":1ho67gsl said:


> very nice i love the wenge look. the tv is that on plasterboard wall... just i was not sure weather it good idea on 32inch tv.... and not that i like pink but that does look very smart.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




It's on 22mm mdf emultioned to make it look like the wall with gap behind to hide all the cables etc


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## Lark (13 Jun 2008)

sneaky lol


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## Oryxdesign (13 Jun 2008)

Lark":3cpnmmzi said:


> very nice i love the wenge look. the tv is that on plasterboard wall... just i was not sure weather it good idea on 32inch tv.... and not that i like pink but that does look very smart.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



The second one is very nice Lark, dark colours reflect light well so the colour looks deeper but shows up imperfections more. Not quite sure about the paint in the first though.


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## Lark (13 Jun 2008)

there not mine but thats what some one done to there gloss black speakers buy priming the spraying then so nd and using the g3 on there to get it like that


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## Jake (13 Jun 2008)

Oryxdesign":2frf42ql said:


> Not quite sure about the paint in the first though.



That had me grinning.

The second is impressive.


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