# Kity 613 Bandsaw wheels



## anaminal (22 Dec 2012)

Hi All,

Just taken delivery of my Kity 613. I bought this from eBay, and nice as it seems to be, has arrived caked with sawdust. I want to dismantle this to give all parts a good clean (the table barely tilts it's so jammed up!). 

The problem is that I am completely uneducated in all things mechanical and can't see how to go about getting the wheels off! Images below. Can anyone offer advice?

http://s1103.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... Kity%20613


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## katellwood (22 Dec 2012)

The holes on the end of the wheel shafts are they threaded?


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## Bills Elm (22 Dec 2012)

anaminal":bmb5vdk1 said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Just taken delivery of my Kity 613. I bought this from eBay, and nice as it seems to be, has arrived caked with sawdust. I want to dismantle this to give all parts a good clean (the table barely tilts it's so jammed up!).
> 
> ...




Hi

Firstly don't panic you've bought a great saw I have one myself they are a workhorse and very underrated!

All you need to do to take off the wheels is get yourself a pair of circlip pliers or borrow a pair and it's easy as pie!

You just take off the circlips and the wheels will come easy peasy just pull them off.

here's a link to the pliers if you don't know anyone with a pair... 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksi ... &_from=R40

If you need any more help just ask  

Bill


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## Phil Pascoe (22 Dec 2012)

Just get a pair of circlip pliers - remove the circlip and the wheel should just come off. Don't forget to use a dry lubricant when you reassemble it - if you use oil and grease it will encourage further clogging up.


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## anaminal (23 Dec 2012)

Great cheers guys, I expect I'll be back tomorrow to ask "how do I get them back on"


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## MickCheese (23 Dec 2012)

If that is 'caked in sawdust' then you have OCD.  

Mick


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## Noggsy (23 Dec 2012)

Cracking saw, which looks like mine AFTER I've cleaned it  

I've just remade the insert on mine out of a piece of beech as the old one was dropping which clogged the cut as on the back of the insert hole. That has made a massive difference. Also, if you can get hold of a small piece of lignam, it makes great bearings.

A good buy mate, which I'm sure you'll enjoy. Merry Christmas.


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## flh801978 (23 Dec 2012)

I'm sure that those circlips that you can see DONT need to be removed to get the wheels off
they look as though they are a press fit onto the shaft so should come off with a suitable puller
The circlip needs to come out to remove the bearings from the wheels

Ian


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## Phil Pascoe (23 Dec 2012)

If they are like mine, no, they have to come off to move the wheel.


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## powertools (23 Dec 2012)

I think manuals can be downloaded from here http://kitysurtable.voila.net/notices.htm


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## anaminal (23 Dec 2012)

hmm, OK leaving the wheels aside for a minute (I'll come back to these once I get hold of the circlips).

Guides!

I noticed the guides weren't moving very freely so took them out, cleaned away the dust and added some lubricant (I used an aerosol silicone, please don't tell me this was the wrong thing) but they're still sticking. Infact, I just made a few cuts and noticed a few sparks jumping out! I assume this is considered unhealthy... is there a fix or will I need to buy a new guide?


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## Bills Elm (23 Dec 2012)

anaminal":pb9ay20m said:


> hmm, OK leaving the wheels aside for a minute (I'll come back to these once I get hold of the circlips).
> 
> Guides!
> 
> I noticed the guides weren't moving very freely so took them out, cleaned away the dust and added some lubricant (I used an aerosol silicone, please don't tell me this was the wrong thing) but they're still sticking. Infact, I just made a few cuts and noticed a few sparks jumping out! I assume this is considered unhealthy... is there a fix or will I need to buy a new guide?



I take it you have the bearing type guides on your saw? 

Some of the saws came with 2 wooden blocks and only a back bearing. Though by your photo I think I can just make out that you have 3 bearings, this type also came with a rack and pinion type rise and fall, where the wooden block type was a manual lift rise and fall. 

If you look at the guides underneath You'll find that they are probably wooden blocks make sure that they are centered properly, If you look on youtube there are a few good guides on how to set up a bandsaw properly. 

The only thing I would draw your attention to on a Kity is that where most bandsaw blades run in the middle of the band wheels on the crown of the wheel as they say, on a Kity the blade rides on the outside of the band wheel, I think it's 2/3 of the blade on the wheel and 1/3 of the blade off the front of the wheel, but it tells you on the saw up near the top at the back if you're stuck.

Anyway you definatley shouldn't be seeing any sparks!!

What I would suggest is to leave them "the bearings" overnight in some kind of freeing lubricant and if that doesn't work just buy new ones they're not much only a few quid each, I can't remember off hand where to get them but I'm sure someone else will know and If you can't find them come back to me and I'll let you know.

So don't worry it's a cheap fix but try the freeing oil first, I suppose there's a chance they maybe rusted inside but unlikely as I'm sure they are made of good steel.

Bill


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## anaminal (23 Dec 2012)

Cheers Bill


Bills Elm":c7xgmo2a said:


> I take it you have the bearing type guides on your saw?


Sorry Bill - shoulda thought of that. Photos now added to photobucket. http://s1103.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... Kity%20613



Bills Elm":c7xgmo2a said:


> The only thing I would draw your attention to on a Kity is that where most bandsaw blades run in the middle of the band wheels on the crown of the wheel as they say, on a Kity the blade rides on the outside of the band wheel, I think it's 2/3 of the blade on the wheel and 1/3 of the blade off the front of the wheel, but it tells you on the saw up near the top at the back if you're stuck.


Didn't know this! When the saw arrived the blade was running in the middle of the wheel and there is a well worn track that shows it's been running that line for a while. How should I approach tracking this blade then as I'm working to what I've read in Lonnie Bird's 'The Bandsaw Book'.



Bills Elm":c7xgmo2a said:


> What I would suggest is to leave them "the bearings" overnight in some kind of freeing lubricant


Will give this a shot. just go to B&Q and ask or are there specific products you'd recommend?


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## Phil Pascoe (23 Dec 2012)

If they are gummed up, white spirit will probably do. Or paraffin, diesel, any light oil.......


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## Bills Elm (23 Dec 2012)

Yeah Phils right don't spend money on anything, even petrol would do just something thin enough to penetrate the bearing and i would keep turning it every so often while it's submerged to try and free it up.

I'll get back to you tomorrow on your other questions i'm off to bed now.

Bill


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## Bills Elm (23 Dec 2012)

anaminal":mdeqp5oi said:


> Cheers Bill
> 
> 
> Bills Elm":mdeqp5oi said:
> ...


Didn't know this! When the saw arrived the blade was running in the middle of the wheel and there is a well worn track that shows it's been running that line for a while. How should I approach tracking this blade then as I'm working to what I've read in Lonnie Bird's 'The Bandsaw Book'.

As I said before the blade should run on the outside of the bandwheel as for Lonnies book I havn't read it but all you need to do is tilt the blade forward using the tilt screw at the back of the saw I will post you some pics tomorrow, so don't w3orry we'll get it sorted :wink: 


Bill


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## anaminal (3 Jan 2013)

Hey Guys - Cheers for the advice so far, bandsaw is now running smooth as a smooth thing, and so inevitably I have more questions... Table!

Two Questions

First: what is this thing? http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/g48 ... 0a35c8.jpg
I literally can't see how I would use this!

Second: Is there a piece missing from my fence? I can't see how it attaches onto the table, or an I supposed to buy a separate clamp to secure it? In the photo it is just balanced on the table, so obviously if I rested against it while cutting it wouldn't help. Thoughts?
http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/g48 ... d%20Fence/
I've read up on fences and watched videos of them in action so know what it's supposed to do... starting to suspect it's missing something


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## Phil Pascoe (3 Jan 2013)

Sorry, I can't get these pictures.


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## anaminal (5 Jan 2013)

You can't access them? or you just can't give the answer to the question? They should be public on the site...

http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/ami ... d%20Fence/

try THIS link?


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## powertools (5 Jan 2013)

Picture 1 is a miter guide for cross cutting at angles between 0 and 90 deg. there must be loads of youtube videos to show it's use.
The fence seems to be complete and fixes to the saw via the scale as in your picture 2 and is locked in place with the black knob screwed into the side of the scale when in the correct position.


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## Phil Pascoe (5 Jan 2013)

No, sorry, I'm getting four minute photos first time, then nothing. Second time I'm getting nothing at all . I'm not getting a link on your "THIS", either. Don't worry, it's probably my computer - it new . it's Windows 8, and it's baffling all of us. Not that it takes anything after the on/off switch to baffle me!


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## anaminal (5 Jan 2013)

I'll have a look for videos for the miter gauge... I just couldn't see how it'd work as it looks like I'd end up pushing against the side of the blade...

On the fence, if it was attached with the black screw, the back end moves freely so needs me to hold it steady with one hand. isn't there something needed to secure the far end?


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## powertools (5 Jan 2013)

The fence needs to be parallel to the side of the blade to set the final adjustment the 2 bolts that go up into the fence that can be seen on picture 3 are loosened off and the fence set then the bolts are re tightened the bolts on yours must be loose for the front of the fence to move.


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## MG1977 (4 May 2014)

Hi Guys, I'm aware that this is an old thread, but was wondering if any of you still have a kity 613 as I have just gotten hold of one and I'm in the process of stripping it down and cleaning it up.

Cheers

Michael


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## anaminal (4 May 2014)

I do Michael, happy to offer any advice - though I should warn you that I'm normally the one asking questions rather than answering them 

Chris


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## Noggsy (4 May 2014)

I've got one and it's a great machine. Ananimal - I take it you've sussed that the mitre guide should slide in the slot by now?


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## anaminal (5 May 2014)

Noggsy":2ils9338 said:


> I've got one and it's a great machine. Ananimal - I take it you've sussed that the mitre guide should slide in the slot by now?


Haha yes thanks, I had to give it a few passes over the grinding wheel as the rail had warped a little and wouldn't slide, all is good now... Next thing for mine is to upgrade the fence as mine is a bit wobbly and imprecise.


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## MG1977 (18 May 2014)

That's good to hear guys. Apologies for the slow response though, I've only just worked out how to get notifications!!

Mine is now all cleaned up and I'm going to get the tuffsaw blades installed...Then it's going through the setup before starting project numero uno!

Still can't work out how best to set up a fence...would these work, or am I better off just clamping something straight to the table?







http://www.axminster.co.uk/united-clamp-cutting-guide-635mm-25?gclid=CLCY2pXLtb4CFQP3wgod6r8ASg

Oh and my wheels would not come off with any reasonable force, despite removing the circlips...and I decided that since they seemed to spin well for quite a while on their own with almost zero sound, then I would more likely do more damage by taking them off!!

(oh and apologies for the huge image from the axminster site!!) :shock:


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## Flatlander (19 May 2014)

Going back to the mitre guide, as it is, it cant be used. There is an aluminium profile that fits on it that is missing. If asked, I'll try to take a photo of mine later and post it.


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