# Small CNC Router Build



## CHJ (16 Feb 2018)

As mentioned Elsewhere I've embarked on trying to put together a small CNC Router to use in combination with my turning bits.
It's going to be long job I suspect but it should stimulate the old grey cells a bit over the coming months.





Base and Side Panels are the key to the alignment of everything else so I chickened out and purchased them ready cut from the Designers Web Site




I've started on the finishing off of the Side Frames by sealing with sanding sealer prior to painting to keep out any moisture and look a little smarter.

And embarked on doing the same with the Base Board but decided to sort out the clamping fixing insert nuts before any sealing and finishing.
First a trial on a back position, (least noticeable if it goes wrong)



Then Drill out all the rest of the matrix and slightly countersink holes.




This is when you appreciate a basic Pillar drill with wide throat capability, not the best for precision engineering but a boon for sheet wood tasks.

I will use the Pillar Drill to inset the Insert Nuts to ensure they go in as true as possible just so they look neat.




Think I'm going to lip the edges of the Base to hide the Ply layers, just for the aesthetics, time is not going to be a limiting factor on this while I procure the bits and pieces.


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## CHJ (17 Feb 2018)

Twas on a Saturday morning when a parcel of Printed bits arrived.




Just got to get the hardware sorted to connect the bits together in some sort of order.


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## Brandlin (17 Feb 2018)

I've built a couple of CNC Routers. For educational purposes. And i've contributed to a few others' projects with mechanical knowledge. My first job back in the late 80's was working with a CAM software company developing G-Code generators. Moved on to many other things since.

The main thing that small scale CNC machinery fails on is Stiffness. Not to be confused with strength. If your main components are already wood and 3d printed elements then you're going to be quite limited to the materials you can cut and the size of cuts you can make. However it can be an enormous amount of fun just to build, and if you know the limitations of your machine and use it accordingly it can be very enjoyable.

I don't subscribe to the "woodworking establishment" that using CNC tools is "not woodwork" either.

Looking forwards to following this. Ask if you need any advice. Above all HAVE FUN!

PS - pet hate.... CNC is not a noun.


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## CHJ (17 Feb 2018)

Not expecting to task the capabilities, it is after all based on a 3D printer control mechanism so limitations are pretty obvious.
Just have ideas of using it to decorate or provide more accurate segmented or inlaid designs to incorporate in my turning projects, and cutting traverse speed is not a priority so loads on the cutters should be small.
No deadlines to meet other than trying to complete the build sometime in the near future, actually producing something at all will be a bonus.

Will be a whole new learning curve on my part catching up with the electronics and computer design side, I've been retired from the active side of such for 23+ yrs. now and things have moved on somewhat.


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## CHJ (18 Feb 2018)

Sealed and painted the Side Frames.




Did likewise with the Base Panel and added some Mahogany edged trim, It might as well look neat even if it never gets to work. Might know the spares bin did not have enough thread inserts so will have to wait until a visit to town to get a few more to complete.


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## julianf (18 Feb 2018)

I can't help thinking that you should have used the CNC machine to drill the holes in the base... : )

(I realise the out of range ones would not be possible)

Have you chosen a spindle yet? I would have to recommend kress (who have just gone bust, but don't let that worry you!). I looked at my kress fme 800 unit the other day and saw the service sticker on it from about 5 years back. It sometimes runs 10 hr jobs back to back in a pretty grim environment (non ferrous, with cutting fluids) and I'm amazed it still lives. I have a spare fme 1050 waiting for it's demise. There is a registered kress agent who does repair work very very reliably too. 

You can get Chinese spindles which would, on paper, seem preferable, but I can't see them lasting as long. The only issue with the kress units is that they are loud.


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## CHJ (18 Feb 2018)

julianf":13dq1n6w said:


> I can't help thinking that you should have used the CNC machine to drill the holes in the base... : )


 Chicken and Egg situation & there's a risk the Chicken could have died of old age before we get there  



julianf":13dq1n6w said:


> Have you chosen a spindle yet?........


Nowhere near thinking about that yet, inundated with information from the FaceBook group and numerous internet sources in what is a new subject for me, last time I had anything to do with a 'Real' machine was to sort out the installation of something that arrived in a large packing crate as a result of a requirement requisition.
Will no doubt be shouting loud for guidance and recommendations as I get somewhere nearer the decision.

Thanks to those that have offered advice if needed so far both on line and behind the scenes.

Currently Negotiating the " How big is going to be" "How big's the power supply and computer bit" AND " Where is it going to live".
Anyone would think some folks around here have had experience in this field before.


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## julianf (18 Feb 2018)

Have a look here - 

http://thebeast.co.uk/?page_id=21

this is me, and the sort of stuff i do (not wood work related!)

So i have some experience of small scale cnc work. The machine that lot were cut on was built by me the best part of a decade ago. I may (or indeed, may not!) be able to answer some of your questions as they come up.


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## CHJ (18 Feb 2018)

julianf":16zqzrla said:


> Have a look here -
> http://thebeast.co.uk/?page_id=21
> this is me, and the sort of stuff i do (not wood work related!)
> 
> So i have some experience of small scale cnc work. The machine that lot were cut on was built by me the best part of a decade ago. I may (or indeed, may not!) be able to answer some of your questions as they come up.


Very professional standard output julian, It's almost certain I will need advice and guidance when I get nearer the working end of the build, just concentrating on the basic mechanical support stuff for the time being, then try to get my head around the electronics and stepper drive in this design, although I have good support on that side from family as it's basically the same as the printer that produced the bits so far, one of the main reasons for using this Root3 Light design.

As regards the choice of spindle driver, collets cutters etc. , I have a good understanding of the technology involved but no experience of the current standards and range of cutters etc. so will no doubt be shouting for recommendations from yourself and others to try and avoid buying something unsuitable.

Of course that area is inter related with the power supply (voltage/current) and the drivers, but not thinking too much about that until It gets to be a holding point.


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## CHJ (22 Feb 2018)

Main Metal bits Cut to size, and Y Rails assembled ready for fixing.
Remembered to thread some wires through for limit switches etc. Overkill at the moment but easier to cut off surplus than dissasemble to add at later date.


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## CHJ (25 Feb 2018)

Started assembling some of the more obvious bits so that I can plan a bit more on a sequence that may avoid having to disassemble because I forgot something that needs access to secure.




One little interesting fact that emerged was that little nuts dropped carefully into cavities in sets of 4 or 8 have a penchant for falling back out when you turn the part over to trial fit in place.

Solution, use temporary plugs of coffee stirring sticks in loading cavities to keep them in place whilst you play and until screws are finally engaged.


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## CHJ (25 Feb 2018)

Progress is going to be slow with the rest of the mechanicals, some of the bits are on a slow delivery and I am ordering bits in series at each stage.

Supposed logic being that I will get some of the other tasks that are accumulating completed in parallel.


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## CHJ (1 Mar 2018)

First batch of Bearings arrived, (40off) so was able to do a trial assembly of the Y carriages, who knows they may even stay put with a little tweaking.


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## CHJ (2 Mar 2018)

X Carriage fit started, running reasonably smoothly at this stage, so many minor variables that final running fit is sure to need tweaking, be interesting to see after Z Axis lead Screw and Motor Clamp rails fitted.

In the mean time, something to play with and wear in the rails.


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## CHJ (5 Mar 2018)

Lead Screw and Linear bearings arrived, so turned up the lower Lead Screw Collar. 



Not much else can be achieved until some more bearings arrive but at least there is progress.


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## CHJ (9 Mar 2018)

Few more bits arrived to the mix.




So they can be fitted in appropriate homes.










The Y axis Belt Roller fit confirmed a suspicion that the 45mm long coach bolts listed in the BOM were not long enough, so smartened up some standard 8mm bolts by thinning the heads down with a dome and giving a coat of paint.







The Limit Switches also arrived so fitting screws sorted and trial fits started.




Noted that the images of final assembly show X axis limit switch wiring wrapped on the outside of the assembly so have tidied up that aspect by drilling a small duct hole angled down into the top tube access duct to thread wires through when the time comes.


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## CHJ (26 Mar 2018)

Not exactly a major advance, trial fit of Cable Drag Chains, (10 X 20mm core).







Subject to drilling a couple of holes in the separated ends (to avoid purchase of separate terminal ends) both pieces conveniently come out of a 1 metre length.


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## delaney001 (6 Apr 2018)

Brilliant thread. 
Looking forward to each update


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## CHJ (29 Nov 2018)

Long time no input I guess, things got put on a back burner during a hectic summer.
However as the bulk of the electronics have now surfaced I must get round to acquiring a few circuit board sockets (if there aren't any in my 'might be useful' store) and some gears and make some progress on the wiring.

The Board has been loaded with the appropriate Marlin software and I have several programs loaded on a laptop to play with and hopefully at least be able to spin the steppers to prove things are working.

Actual handling of designs Cad Cam through DXF to Gcode etc. may take some time for me to get to grips with as my programming was last in service in Visual basic Fortran era. I need to spend some time playing with the various programs to see which one has menu options I can understand, that's some time off, at least I hope to have a working machine for someone to use.
I have enough problems trying to drive my cars navigation and infotainement system these days.
Talk of modifying code and different driver boards that may simplify the whole driving experience for me by the time it's mechanically sound I'm just putting on the back burner for the time being.
















Something that came to life when assembling and testing boards was that CAUTION was needed when fitting different (higher current drivers) the pin/component layout can differ and as there is no orientation key to the driver sub board assembly they can be installed incorrectly if following the original printer guide notes refering to driver orientation based on board component location.


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## CHJ (4 Dec 2018)

As there are a few days awaiting further component delivery. The need to sort out the power supply location and associated wiring to keep it away from any debris and reduce the birds nest potential of associated wiring saw today producing this.

Rather crude on the construction front, using scrap chipboard stock and spares from the might be useful hoard so apart from time and a smidgen of electricity nil cost. 
Gap below draw showing draw runners not pretty but will serve as useful cooling air route to augment those in the base.















Just need to face the top edges with heavy duty felt to act as vibration damping.


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## ColeyS1 (5 Dec 2018)

Looking very neat and tidy Chas. Looking forward to seeing it up and running !

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


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## CHJ (5 Dec 2018)

ColeyS1":3kgo41sl said:


> Looking forward to seeing it up and running !



You and me both, first time I've ever embarked on a side project with such relaxed timescale objectives. But it provides an alternate grey cell stimulation and has made for a reacquaintance with 'spares' boxes that have not seen the light of day for 30-40 yrs. (the 'I should have some of those somewhere ' syndrome looms large)
It's the little things like circuit board connectors, in line crimps, shrink sleeving that you know were purchased in bulk way back when.
I doubt I or anybody else will see the day when the hoards of resistors of every denomination, capacitors and components ever gets consumed in these days of 'do it all' integrated circuits. (did I really use that many automatic feed roles of resistors?)


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## AES (5 Dec 2018)

Looking really tidy Chas, and a nice project to have on the back burner to come on now and then, when the fancy strikes. And re the "that may come in handy one day" box/es I've been surprised at the number of times I've found something that really WILL do. Even SWMBO has been impressed a few times - though it doesn't stop the fairly oft-heard pregnant remarks about "all that stuff in the cellar"! 

("It's not a cellar, it's a workshop woman." "NOOOO, it's supposed to be for me to use too!" "Well the washing machine, drier, a load of gardening tools and CH is in there. What more do you want?"). Ah well.

Looking forward to seeing it in action Chas. If you get stuck for any gears, my previous offer still holds.


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## CHJ (5 Dec 2018)

Hopefully the gears will be here soon, having problems with tooth count on one used in Z axis but have been assured it can be accounted for in the software calibration. (Oh yeh! your assuming we get that far).


Found some more 'spares' this morning that will do, 



No idea why they were hiding in a resistor draw.




And just whilst typing this another package arrives.


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## worn thumbs (5 Dec 2018)

Looking very promising.I got mine moving under it's own power a few weeks ago and it is a very satisfying moment when it does what you want.Totally homebrewed machine running Linuxcnc and using the Path module of Freecad to generate code.You might find the youtube videos of that aspect very interesting.Its a lot easier than typing G0's and G01's into wordpad and you get such luxuries as leaving holding tags on the workpieces to stop them flying around.I have just graduated to using ramp entry moves instead of simply plunging down in Z.


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## CHJ (6 Dec 2018)

Late evening delivery, Drive Pulleys and some spare Motor connectors to aid wiring extensions needed.


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## CHJ (16 Dec 2018)

Last couple of days have seen a bit more progress.
Power Housing got its Felt anti-vib. edging.


and Base board attachment done.
Stepper Transmission Belts Initial fit.







Today saw the the start on Wiring Birds Nest termination which includes extending the Stepper motor lines




At least using the heat gun to shrink the joint sleeving added some extra warmth to the fingers that don't seem to be as dexterous as they used to be.



Not the neatest routing, a bit over length but have been informed there may be a different driver board on the way using more user friendly (for me) software so need to cater for repositioning of terminations on board.




At least the cover goes on.




A lot of work still to be done on the wiring 'tidying' front but need to prove that I can at least move the steppers before any of that takes place.


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## AES (16 Dec 2018)

Looking good CHJ, birds nest & all. Those toothed drive pulley look pretty, hope they're not "just" cast monkey metal (I notice the 2 x centre holes are different diameters, the big dia presumably meaning a fair bit of torque to transmit. If so, and they are "monkey metal" then I hope the - presumably? - grub screw threads have a fair bit of meat on them).


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## CHJ (16 Dec 2018)

Andy,
The pulleys seem pretty robust, they are low cost items anyway if they need replacing, being large volume items used in the printer world.

There is not a great deal of torque involved, the larger bores are more a case of accommodating the screw diameter on the Z axis and rigid drive strap axle in an attempt to help tie the two Y axis steppers in sync. negligible torque there.

Stepper motors have flats on the shafts so rotational loads on the grub screws is minimal.


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## AES (16 Dec 2018)

OK thanks Chas. I was only being an old woman anyway (and working from those - necessarily small - pix).

I have 2 very similar drive pulleys (from the pix) stripped off an old photocopier, but they both have TWO grub screws to match 2 diametrically opposed flats on the drive shaft (I just HATE to throw "good" stuff away).

But it sounds like the designers of your machine knew what they were doing.


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## Steve Maskery (16 Dec 2018)

Any of you guys remember DOGS and PAFEC? I worked there '84 to '91 and was the DOGSNC specialist. The job took me all over the world. I taught people how to use the software and wrote post-processors for different controllers, Fanuc, Siemens, Colchester etc.
We were often head-to-head with GNC. Ultimately GNC prevailed and PAFEC declined. There was a big round of redundancies shortly before I left and another not long afterwards.
Good while it lasted.


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## CHJ (16 Dec 2018)

At Strelley Hall Steve? looks like an interesting HQ.


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## Steve Maskery (16 Dec 2018)

That pic looks familiar. I think I'm on it somewhere.
The Training Room was the original Morning Room. You can see the French windows at the front corner. It got the sun in the morning, as you would expect.
That meant that it was BOILING in the summer, what with 16 computer terminals buzzing in there (pre-PC days) and absolutely freezing first thing on a Monday morning in the winter when the heating had been off all weekend.
We regularly got rung up by the electricity supplier asking us to switch things off as we were stressing the tiny overhead power supply.
Incidentally, there are more windows on the outside than there are on the inside. For example, the one to the right of the French Windows is a blank, it looks like a window on the outside but there is no window on the inside.
By and large, happy days.


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## CHJ (19 Dec 2018)

Major hurdle mastered, have run the system from PC today as far as proving steppers run.

Only using Repetier Host printer software (easy manual input) but at least it has proved that things are working in the right direction.

Did have one minor glitch, sometime between the publishing of the wiring write-up I had and loading the latest version of Marlin Software on the RAMPS Board the end-stop switching requirement has changed from NC to NO.


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## CHJ (20 Dec 2018)

Now awaiting acquisition of correct G Code driver software and then I can start thinking about which Router to fit to it.


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## worn thumbs (20 Dec 2018)

I know nothing of this particular machine's software,what is it?I pondered both Arduino based solutions and LinuxCNC for mine before selecting the LinuxCNC solution.Cost didn't come into it as they were both free.


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## CHJ (20 Dec 2018)

Arduino and Marlin Firmware.

Expected CNC-GCode-Controller (Java) to run it. 

Cant get it to connect, says 250000 baud rate is not supported (which is what Repetier host connects at)

Accepts 115200 rate but does not get M110 response. obviously I have a mismatch somewhere in the Marlin Firmware and what GCode controller is sending.


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## CHJ (20 Dec 2018)

This connects and runs Steppers (3D printer software)



This software does not connect.


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## CHJ (20 Dec 2018)

OK sorted it, all down to getting computer and router to talk to each other down the same speaker tube. So much for intelligent systems that think they know best.

Now comes the brain scratching while I try to get my head around setting work area and travel limits etc.

And check movement calibration with the pulleys I have fitted in case firmware needs adjusting.


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## AES (21 Dec 2018)

This really is a fascinating project Chas. I don't pretend to understand over half of what you've written above (I shall never attempt such a thing myself) but speaking purely from a "mechanical" viewpoint it all looks very nice indeed. I remember at least one other member, probably a couple, making and posting about such gear, and I "takes me 'at orf" to you all Sir.

Just as a matter of personal interest, no matter how good it is mechanically, there must be some backlash, especially when the cutter changes axis in a 3D cut. How is that allowed for? I presume some software "tweak"? (Or have I completely misunderstood - quite likely)?


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## worn thumbs (21 Dec 2018)

Congratulations on reaching a landmark stage,its rather special to see the machine moving isn't it?Calibrating and setting home/limit switches is perhaps a bit less epic,but no less satisfying-its also something I have yet to do with my machine although with ballscrews the calibration was easy.

Do you have any software for generating toolpaths yet?I have been using Freecad's path module and it does a very good job for most basic shapes.The attached message was created using F-engrave and since it too is free,you might find it worth a play.It works with bitmap images or .dxf files.


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## AES (21 Dec 2018)

That looks really good worn thumbs - especially so when one considers that it comes from a machine that you've built and programmed yourself. Must be a very satisfying feeling.

As above, "I takes me 'at orf" to all you clever so n so s.


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## CHJ (21 Dec 2018)

AES":xip322zl said:


> Just as a matter of personal interest, no matter how good it is mechanically, there must be some backlash, especially when the cutter changes axis in a 3D cut. How is that allowed for? I presume some software "tweak"? (Or have I completely misunderstood - quite likely)?




Not a lot of backlash in the drive system supprisingly stiff, I guess the software takes care of the rest.

Be some time before I get anywhere near this:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Y0OHRD ... fUzR-vqB6o


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## CHJ (21 Dec 2018)

worn thumbs":21l4nrnl said:


> Do you have any software for generating toolpaths yet?I have been using Freecad's path module and it does a very good job for most basic shapes.The attached message was created using F-engrave and since it too is free,you might find it worth a play.It works with bitmap images or .dxf files.


I have some at hand, thanks for the tips, I am holding off delving into which software to use until I can get to fitting a Router Motor and run some exsiting Gcode.
I envioson taking the simplest route possible for mainly surface designs, possibly a little Z axis contouring.

Thanks for the tips regarding Freecad and Engrave, have played with software associated with 3D printer that was used to print the parts for me so have an inkling of what's needed to generate to G Code.


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## CHJ (21 Dec 2018)

AES":2nnzprzh said:


> ...Just as a matter of personal interest, no matter how good it is mechanically, there must be some backlash, especially when the cutter changes axis in a 3D cut. How is that allowed for? I presume some software "tweak"



Yer 't'is, one of many parameters that can be tweaked




Who knows when, if even, I can manage to get my head round them all.


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## AES (21 Dec 2018)

Ah, OK Chas. At least I understood the bit in the table about back lash! I venture to think that it will be an interesting exercise to measure the back lash so you know by what amount to tweak. Though thinking about that a little more, I guess the easiest way will be to just fiddle with a test cuts piece until you get the value right? I wonder if that value will change though, dependant on the cutter and the density of the wood you're cutting? Interesting - but I must be careful not to strain my few brain cells - have you seen my (quite ridiculous) post about 2018 in Off Topic???


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## CHJ (21 Dec 2018)

John, (wt)
What spindle motor are you using, and specifically the wattage for your sample above.

I only expect to cut wood patterns and simple mouldings with it but really have no correlation as to wattage required for something not much greater than engraving compared with say hand held routers.

Envisioned something along these lines may be adequate for my needs


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## worn thumbs (21 Dec 2018)

Since my machine was intended as a learning exercise in CNC building and I had no plans to produce chronometer parts or space shuttles,I kept it basic.I happened to have a Rotozip that I bought when B&Q had them on clearance at less than £40 and as far as I recall it is a 550W motor.I wouldn't want any less as it is the limiting factor with this machine.Several of the home built machines on youtube feature the Bosch palm router and I can see these being reasonable.In view of the likely shortage of Rotozip spares I made a move to future proof myself by buying an Aldi palm router a few weeks ago-500W and even a couple of cutters for £25 and I have no doubt it will work if needed.

The dedicated spindles in your link look promising and If (when!) I move on to a bigger and better machine they are the sort of thing I would want.For strictly small scale work you wouldn't need it but I would want to have at least an ER16 collet so that 1/2" shank cutters are feasible.The extra cost of the hardware would soon be overtaken by all the hours a small motor tickling the surface would be consuming electricity.The best analogy is to think of the effort and number of cuts it would take something like a small 1/4" router to do a job that a 1/2" router could do in one cut.I would guess that for solely engraving you could get away with 200W.

I intend to spend some time over the next few days learning more about home and limit switches as I currently operate without them.I bought both the contact type and the inductance type and while the commercial machines I have used had the inductance type,they do seem to require quite a range of movement to establish a home position and this eats into the work envelope.I have done a little reading and early signs are that homing and limits with LinuxCNC are not the easiest of topics to master.

For now I am delighted to be able to produce accurate parts (by woodworkers definition) and to avoid some of the tedious jobs of template making that I had ceased to enjoy.Its also fun to V-carve house numbers and the like.


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## CHJ (21 Dec 2018)

Another major step forward, checked movement calibration, Z axis was a factor of 4 too high so had Marlin software modified for me, installed Arduino on PC and received instruction on how to do it myself in future, and uploaded modified firmware to Board, Axis movement now calibrated. The wonders of Skype.


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## worn thumbs (22 Dec 2018)

CHJ":2ynvpcw9 said:


> Another major step forward, checked movement calibration, Z axis was a factor of 4 too high so had Marlin software modified for me, installed Arduino on PC and received instruction on how to do it myself in future, and uploaded modified firmware to Board, Axis movement now calibrated. The wonders of Skype.



That would be a very useful stage completed.Does the change to the Z axis now mean that the resolution has improved by a factor of 4 too?My steppers have 200 steps per rotation and with a 5mm pitch on the ballscrews,that gives a resolution of 1 step=1/40th of a mm which ought to be more than enough for most woodworking purposes.It is possible to adjust the dip switches on the control modules to permit micro-stepping to something like one sixteenth of that-the penalty being a loss of torque.


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## custard (22 Dec 2018)

This is such a great project, thanks for posting!

It also looks like you've found a real sweet spot. Big enough to be genuinely useful, yet small enough to be manageable.

=D>


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## CHJ (22 Dec 2018)

worn thumbs":3kh8jgr0 said:


> CHJ":3kh8jgr0 said:
> 
> 
> > …..That would be a very useful stage completed.Does the change to the Z axis now mean that the resolution has improved by a factor of 4 too?.......



This was just distance travelled from a given Manual input of the Java CNC-GCode-Controller program.
Set tabs of 0.1 1.0 5.0 10.0 mm (I.E. 10mm was giving me 40mm travel)

Have not worked out what the actual resolution is on the steppers, I am using 16 tooth T2 pulleys on Nema 17 (200 step) steppers.
X & Y are belt transmission, Z is 8 x 2 mm screw with a small gear ratio between.


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## CHJ (22 Dec 2018)

custard":1k5phw49 said:


> This is such a great project, thanks for posting!
> 
> It also looks like you've found a real sweet spot. Big enough to be genuinely useful, yet small enough to be manageable.
> 
> =D>



Thanks Custard, Hopefully I'll see it through to actually cutting wood sometime in the next year, realistically it's just a slow burner project in an effort to keep the old grey cells working.


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## worn thumbs (22 Dec 2018)

A 2mm thread pitch with 200 steps/rotation would give fantastic resolution and the gearing would have to be fairly severe to degrade it.


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## CHJ (23 Dec 2018)

We have following of Gcode, of sorts having played today with setting start code and end codes to put things where they need to be to clear work area etc.

Main thing now is to generate some better GCode samples to play with and sort out Z movement positioning.

Who knows the new year may see enough progress to contemplate a Spindle motor acquisition.


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## Steve Jones (26 Dec 2018)

Hi Chas

Just to put my two 'penneth in re the spindle

When I built my machine a couple of years ago which admittedly is quite a bit bigger than yours I installed a Bosch POF500 router, this didn't last long so it was replaced with a Trend T3 which I replaced the main bearings in twice !
The draw back for me with these type of spindles is noise, so I changed to a 1.5kw air cooled spindle from eBay, the difference is chalk and cheese, although there's still noise it's not the high pitched squeal put out by the routers and I can now hold a conversation while I'm cutting something. I have seen the spindles you linked to in the flesh so to speak as a mate bought one for testing purposes and they're not bad at all.

cheers


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## CHJ (26 Dec 2018)

Steve Jones":82y6bubm said:


> .. I have seen the spindles you linked to in the flesh so to speak as a mate bought one for testing purposes and they're not bad at all.



Thanks for the input *Steve*, They are the pattern that the existing printed clamps are sized to hold and I doubt the assembly is capable of sensibly holding or driving anything physically 'bigger', they should be more than good enough for what I envision doing.


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## CHJ (30 Dec 2018)

Looks like we may be getting somewhere.


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## AES (30 Dec 2018)

Yes Chas, "we" are definitely getting somewhere! I've been following this thread with great interest, not because I'll ever try such a thing myself (I really don't understand the PC stuff, and frankly, am too stupid & lazy to try) but A) because I can at least understand and admire the electro-mechanical stuff, and B) because just as custard has said, you're going to end up with something eminently practical - and all "with your own hands"! I won't use the word "awe" (much over-used IMO) but I will definitely admire!

Happy New Year and thanks for posting.


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## CHJ (30 Dec 2018)

Still a lot to get the brain cells reactivated about yet *Andy*.

As well as researching the process specific jargon and finding out how to set or adjust settings in the controlling software, I need to sort out a design/conversion software that will do the simple stuff I need, don't want to go through the same sort of learning curves I did 40-50 yrs. ago. I'll see what I can learn from what I've got first.

Example, not yet having mastered precis levelling, the bottom row of text failure at the end was due to the difference of the two layers of packing paper on the left.
Wood carving will not care about such precision so should be able to ignore that aspect.

May get away with sorting out file editing and saving software that I can use to modify existing designs to suit my needs.


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## CHJ (30 Dec 2018)

Distortion in this image down to 'photo, line errors down to original sketch.


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## LancsRick (30 Dec 2018)

Watching this with interest - I use a 3d printer but I've not dabbled in milling yet!


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## worn thumbs (30 Dec 2018)

Definitely progress! I had a similar situation with the packers I added to my router table, not a huge surprise and I knew I should have given the surface a very light skim as a first job. Isn't it quite hypnotic watching the machine do what it is supposed to do?


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## CHJ (31 Dec 2018)

worn thumbs":2td8yvs3 said:


> Definitely progress! I had a similar situation with the packers I added to my router table, not a huge surprise and I knew I should have given the surface a very light skim as a first job.


The 'level' error is of no concequence as far as wood carving will be concerned, shows up with engraving simulation using the pen though, might even be an error in the wood support block the paper is stuck to.



worn thumbs":2td8yvs3 said:


> Isn't it quite hypnotic watching the machine do what it is supposed to do?


Seeing it doing what it is designed to do, even when it's telling me where I've failed to give it accurate instructions is very satisfying.

May be old hat to many who have been in this field for many years, I've only ever had to worry about programming and using ready built equipement like Jig Borer's and Co-ordinated Measuring Machines on 286 & 386 PC's and that was 25+ yrs ago.

Thinking about the timescales whilst writing this I've just realised that I made the instrument makers G Clamp holding the pen in place 61 years ago.


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## worn thumbs (31 Dec 2018)

I hope this thread will encourage a few more people to explore the possibilities of adding a bit of technology to their woodworking.I didn't own a serious computer until I was 40 and since then I have moved from Windows to Linux,learned a bit about CAD and CNC programming and now built my tiny machine.The next challenge is to make full use of the Path module of Freecad. It keeps the grey cells active and occasionally yields something that has a practical use as well.My latest F-engrave project encapsulates what I hope all woodworkers will experience soon.


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## CHJ (30 Oct 2020)

The CNC router build project stalled somewhat due to other commitments. Have recently resurrected it and fitted a motor and its controls and currently looking at a stand alone mini win 10 computer to run it so that I don't have to keep borrowing the laptop. That way at least I will be able to leave things loaded and ready to experiment further as and when I have a moment to tune into the software.


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## Steve Maskery (30 Oct 2020)

Chas that looks fantastic.
S


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## CHJ (30 Oct 2020)

Afraid that is all it's doing *Steve*, looking good that is, some way from actually producing output due to my software learning curve and lack of application.


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## Bodone (15 Nov 2020)

Thats neat. Into my second 3d printer, Cnc router would be fun, but may be a few years away, to many other projects.


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