# How To Finish Sanding Moulding Of Door?



## pollys13 (9 Jan 2011)

Hi,
I'm sanding my doors down. I used a heat gun and shave hook to scrape the paint and gunk off. I then used a sander using 40 grit paper then will work through finer paper before finishing with wax. Sanding the doors down with the sander was more or less straightforward.

I'm finding the moulding ( assume that is what it is called? ) around the panels quite tricky. I attach some photos of progress I've made so far. Looking at the moulding you can see there are flat faces at 90 degrees. The methods I've been using are, fine wire wool with paint stripper. Not really tried this one yet, using various dowel sizes with sanding paper wrapped around. I think this method is more suited to concave rather than convex moulding. I've used strips of glass to clean up the flat edges.I also got a pack of sanding foam blocks of several grit types. I'm worried using these will take the edges off the flat parts? 

Was not able to attach pictures as file size was too big. Have put them on PhotoBucket see here, 
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy35 ... %20Advice/

Any help on this much appreciated.
Thanks,
Peter.


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## Hudson Carpentry (9 Jan 2011)

The 90deg faces you speak off, i would just scrap with a knife and maybe (big maybe, more likely ill not) use the edge of the sand paper with a small block.

To do the rest i would use a multimaster with a sanding kit: http://www.axminster.co.uk/fein-fein-mu ... prod31412/ Look at the middle rubber insert, it is suited to the round over in that molding.

You will need one of these to: http://www.axminster.co.uk/fein-fein-fm ... rod784424/

Or buy the kit that includes the tool and sanders.

If your only doing one door then it may not be worth your while buying one of these so maybe route up a block that has the same cove, wrap that with sandpaper and sand.


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## pollys13 (9 Jan 2011)

Hudson Carpentry":gh0w2c1q said:


> The 90deg faces you speak off, i would just scrap with a knife and maybe (big maybe, more likely ill not) use the edge of the sand paper with a small block.
> 
> To do the rest i would use a multimaster with a sanding kit: http://www.axminster.co.uk/fein-fein-mu ... prod31412/ Look at the middle rubber insert, it is suited to the round over in that molding.
> 
> ...


Hi thanks,
I'll go for the cheaper option. 
" route up a block that has the same cove, wrap that with sandpaper and sand." 
I'm very new to woodworking, I have a Dewalt router and Triton router table and a box of Silverline cutters. I have some scrap wood I've been collecting to start getting some experience using the router and cutters.
Any pointers please how I go about routing the cove?
Cheers,
Peter.


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## pollys13 (10 Jan 2011)

Hudson Carpentry":1qb0simu said:


> The 90deg faces you speak off, i would just scrap with a knife and maybe (big maybe, more likely ill not) use the edge of the sand paper with a small block.
> 
> To do the rest i would use a multimaster with a sanding kit: http://www.axminster.co.uk/fein-fein-mu ... prod31412/ Look at the middle rubber insert, it is suited to the round over in that molding.
> 
> ...


 Hi,
I also want to sand and wax the skirting boards. See link to picture of skirting board

http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy35 ... rent=e.jpg

I used a dressmakers tape to measure how long the curve is from top to bottom.Probably a dumb question, is that the way to work out the size the cutter to route out a curve in a block to use to sand?
Also let me know your views on my other post Removing Old 1930s Old Varnish From Stairs
Peter.


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## Hudson Carpentry (10 Jan 2011)

pollys13":3f3mutpf said:


> Hi thanks,
> I'll go for the cheaper option.
> " route up a block that has the same cove, wrap that with sandpaper and sand."
> I'm very new to woodworking, I have a Dewalt router and Triton router table and a box of Silverline cutters. I have some scrap wood I've been collecting to start getting some experience using the router and cutters.
> ...



While your router is mounted in the table with a cove cutter (if you have one). Use a larger (so safe buy keeping your fingers and push stick well a way from the cutter) piece of stock wood. Set your fence up so you can route the cove onto the centre of the side of plank (on its end but not end grain). Show little of the cove cutter and pass over from the right of the table to left. If you didn't fancy making the full cut in one pass, raise the cutter and pass over again. Once you have a cove the correct size you can then start cutting the plank down to a more suitable size.


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## Hudson Carpentry (10 Jan 2011)

pollys13":2df6zb4h said:


> I used a dressmakers tape to measure how long the curve is from top to bottom.Probably a dumb question, is that the way to work out the size the cutter to route out a curve in a block to use to sand?
> Also let me know your views on my other post Removing Old 1930s Old Varnish From Stairs
> Peter.



It sounds like your wrapping the tape around the bull nose. If so then no. It can be quite complicated to find the measurement your after but your better off in this case just measuring from the top to the bottom of the bull nose in a straight line and rounding up to the closest 1/4". you don't want your cove shaped block to fit over the whole bullnose, you will want it at around 3/4 of the size so you can get a better sanding action.

Removing varnish isn't something I do a lot of, so im not the best to ask.


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## pollys13 (11 Jan 2011)

Hudson Carpentry":3ipgcxki said:


> pollys13":3ipgcxki said:
> 
> 
> > I used a dressmakers tape to measure how long the curve is from top to bottom.Probably a dumb question, is that the way to work out the size the cutter to route out a curve in a block to use to sand?
> ...


Hello again and thanks.
The measurements according to how you calculate are, the skirting board is close to 22mm the door is about 12mm.
I have a Silverline 1/2 inch tct router bit set which includes two cove box bits, 12.7 x R3.2mm and a 12.7 x R6.3mm.
I also have a Silverline 1/4 inch router bit set. This includes two cove bits a 6.35 x R9.5mm and a 6.35mm x 6.35mm.
Wpould these cove bits do the job or would I need to get some others? If so what would the sizes I should go for?
Cheers,
Pete.


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## Hudson Carpentry (11 Jan 2011)

The one on the door being more a quarter round (quadrant) then you can double your measurement. So for your door i would use the 12.7mm R6.3 bit that looks like http://www.axminster.co.uk/cmt-round-no ... rod828937/. But i wouldn't be cutting to deep (remember the picture of the multimaster sanding pad and how shallow the cove was).

It is unlikely you have a bit like the above at 22mm or 1". Do you have any cove cutters like http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-be ... rod809796/. If so work out the radius of the bullnose for the skirting and match that measurement to this type of cutter. Make your pass (flat to the bed) then turn the wood over and make the 2nd pass completing the shape if that makes sense. In your case i would use a 1/2" R12.7mm cove cutter. As you have to raise the cutter quite a bit to make the cut the correct shape you may need a collet extender. Personally i would use this bit http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-ro ... -1-2(127mm)-prod828929/ D25.2mm X19mm R12.7mm


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## pollys13 (11 Jan 2011)

Hudson Carpentry":h1ic4dj5 said:


> The one on the door being more a quarter round (quadrant) then you can double your measurement. So for
> 
> Do you have any cove cutters like http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-be ... rod809796/. If so work out the radius of the bullnose for the skirting and match that measurement to this type of cutter. make your pass then turn the wood over and make the 2nd pass completing the shape if that makes sense.


Yes the ones I have are like that. " then turn the wood over and make the 2nd pass completing the shape if that makes sense" I'm with you.
Sorry to seem a bit dense, regarding the measurements of door and skirting I gave you. What are the actual specifications I want in the cutters
Ta.


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## Hudson Carpentry (11 Jan 2011)

Sorry re read my post to see if that makes more sense. I edited as i hadn't finished but had to pop off so submitted what i had so not to lose it.


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## pollys13 (16 Jan 2011)

Hudson Carpentry":i520n67v said:


> Sorry re read my post to see if that makes more sense. I edited as i hadn't finished but had to pop off so submitted what i had so not to lose it.


Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.
Yes, I think that is clearer.
Cheers.


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