# Skirting Profiles



## DrPhill (27 Jan 2014)

(Back to reality.  )

I was a bit surprised today when my builder said he could only get torus and ogee(?) profiles off the shelf locally. I would, he said, have to get my preferred profile cut for me. I have done a little research and found places on the web that will provide various profiles - even pre-primed or pre-painted. 

The house is early 1900's, and mainly has a profile similar to 'chamfered', though the chamfer reaches much further down the board (about half way).

So some questions, since I am once again out of my depth....


* What kind of set up would be needed to create a matching skirting profile? Am I likely to find that setup locally?
* Is the price linked above extortionate? 
* Would it be feasible for me to cut a simpler profile (ie bullnose) with my (1/4") router and a bit of patience?
Part of me likes the idea of the ready primed timber since I will not need to mess about with spirit based paint (usually costs me a fortune in solvent and/or brushes). A problem with that route is that the job requires a 3m and a 5m run. Would I be likely to be able to source these lengths by another method? Or am I going to have to have a join whichever way I go. Thankfully the skirting will be painted so I can hide the join more easily.

Sorry, lots of questions. Any and all help gratefully received.

Phill
Oh, and what is the best way to mount the skirting? Screws and filler? Glue? Nails (I do not fancy that)?.


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## Chrispy (27 Jan 2014)

Any joinery firm should be able to run that for you, all you need is a spindle moulder and the motivation, yes it will cost more than ready made off the peg moulding but it should be better quality, Whats extortionate? primer is nearly always water based now so thats easy to do, router will make something but you will struggle to match the existing by the sound of it. I would find someone with a spindle moulder.


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## carlb40 (27 Jan 2014)

I would say the price for the skirting you linked to is reasonable, given that it is finish painted all round. 
However unless the walls a dead straight/ flat???? :lol: :lol: You will need to mechanically fix the skirting to the wall, which then requires touch up. Not good on a factory finish.

If your existing skirting has a 45 degree bevel, then a router table could be an option, but long lengths will be awkward. Another option could be a hand plane with a fence to keep things equal/ uniform.

As to fixing that depends on the walls? Stud walls i would no nail/ pin - hire a nail gun  Solid brick/ block? I would drill and plug to the wall and plug the holes. Or if you want speed, just filler for the screw holes. :|


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## chippy1970 (27 Jan 2014)

Howden s stock 2, 3 and 4" chamfered mdf skirting and champion timber stock taller stuff

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk


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## blackrodd (27 Jan 2014)

You don't give the sizes of the skirting that you require.
If all you need is a chamfer, I have machined this off top the planer, before now.
You would need 1 very good workmate to help keep the material in place, or get a costing of the spindle moulder at one of the smaller 1 or 2 men joinery shops.
The easiest would probably be to carefully plane some well supported timber with the (electric" hand held planer to a couple of pencil lines.
Should you go this route, go to the merchants yourself, if possible and select the soon to be skirting carefully.and don't forget the so called annular rings mostly try and straighten thereby giving you a finishing face to mould. HTH Regards Rodders


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## AndyT (27 Jan 2014)

I'm not a builder but I do live in an old house.

It would help if you posted a picture and told us the size, but if you don't want to spend loads and have the time to experiment, the simplest way to match existing skirting is to buy plain square edged timber and plane it to match. For decorative profiles you would need a few round moulding planes, but from the way you describe it, yours would only need a bench plane to make it.

For fixing, if you still have the original wooden plugs in your walls, I would use them and nail the new boards onto them. It's much easier to hide a punched down nail than a big screw head, in my experience.


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## MMUK (27 Jan 2014)

Travis Perkins stock a reversible bullnose/deep chamfer skirting. My local depot stocks 2", 3", 4" and 6" but I believe they can get 7" & 9" in to order.


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## toolsntat (27 Jan 2014)

Chamfers/ bevels are easily machined under a thicknesser using an angled cradle/bed :idea: 

Andy


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## DrPhill (28 Jan 2014)

Wow, thanks all - plenty of useful information. Based on that my order of preference is:


* Investigate TP. We have one in town and maybe the profiles will be close enough. I am doing an entire room, so do not need an exact match. Just something that is in keeping with the rest of the house.
* Order some online for a company similar to the one I linked.
* Get someone local to make a matching profile.
* Make my own period but not matching profile (small chamfer or bull nose)

You guys are very helpful, and I am learning a lot here.

Thanks

Phill


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## Eric The Viking (28 Jan 2014)

"West Somerset" is a bit vague, but there are quite a few yards in the area, or there were in my youth (Burnham/Highbridge/Bridgwater/Weston area). We've got a few up here, too, in Bristol. 

I honestly wouldn't go online as you'll be struggling if there's a quality issue on delivery. Can you show us a picture or better, the end of a board showing the profile? It really doesn't sound too tough.

To give it context, The ground floor skirtings here are roughly 12" tall, of which the top five inches are moulding. I've had them done usually in two parts: the bottom 7" ending in a groove and ovolo, and the rest of the skirting above that (highly decorative). I think I last paid around £3/ft (minimum run was something like 50 ft), plus stock. I don't think there was a setup charge as one of our local merchants ("Bristol Timber", IIRC) keeps the cutters. 

There's a T+G or just a rebate at the joint between the two sections (there's a quirk disguising it), and it's usually backed by blocks of thin MDF or ply about 2ft apart to keep it together. Scribing and mitres are both a right royal PITA.

E.


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## blackrodd (28 Jan 2014)

I have just re- read the post again, and i am not sure that there were many 100 year old houses having bevelled or chamfered or even splayed and rounded skirtings.
Back in the 1900's i would expect to see skirting 7" or 9" and an ogee or similar and made with a hand plane.
If you're not fussed then o.k. but it may be a good idea to get a dekko at any helpful, close by neighbours house and see what may still remain today. Regards rodders


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## DrPhill (28 Jan 2014)

Interesting point, Rodders, we are not historians and assumed that since the bulk of the skirting was a chamfer that this was the original skirting. The previous owners (or at least some of them) redecorated in a mix of '60s and GWR (I kid you not....).

The house was probably not 'typical' of its period, though. It was one half of a pair of semis built by the 'neighbours' for their two sons. It had a minton fireplace (long since ripped out to be replaced with a 60's DIY monstrosity. Itself now removed by us to join two rooms..... Anyway, I suspect that if the previous 'modifiers' had replaced the skirting they would have chosen 5" torus and cut it with a rusty chisel as they did in the lounge.

We are not attempting to recreate a replica of the original house, though. Just creating a simple, period-themed feel. So the 9ft ceilings will have plaster coving and a picture rail (rather than polystyrene coving and a dado rail). The simpler skirtings - probably in 7" like the bulk of the house will likely be chamfer. We have joined two rooms and I have an interesting puzzle joining the two oak woodblock floors - different patterns, different length blocks. I love puzzles. Thankfully we can rob some genuine oak blocks from under the stairs (later addition when the loft was converted to a bedroom/en suite).

Lots of fun.......


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## blackrodd (30 Jan 2014)

As a suggestion, regarding the oak block flooring and the two meeting floors, would a strip of oak or matching timber at about 7"wide, and laid where the wall has been removed, use this as a starter and finisher and cut the blocks into, and away from it. Or even set it as a threshold. Regards Rodders


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## DrPhill (30 Jan 2014)

Hey, Rodders, that is a cool idea - if I can source a suitable chunk of oak. It would simplify the problem immensely. We have yet to lift the carpet and examine the task in detail - the builders are still clomping around in their size 11's - they still need to line the chimney and put the hearth in so it will be a while before I consider this in detail. And I want to size the plaster with the carpet still down, maybe even get a coat of paint on.

I am hoping that I can cut varying lengths of block to blend one pattern into t'other - its the sort of geometric challenge that fascinates me. But if I think the challenge too great I could use your idea or a variation. I think each original floor has a border (single or double) of blocks laid parallel to the wall which would make the long strip a very simple option.

A lot depends on how many blocks we can rob from the area that is now an understairs cuppboard.

But thanks for the idea.


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## DrPhill (30 Jan 2014)

The skirting profile is 6+ inches measured from the carpet, so 7 inches nominal is probably close. Slightly less than an inch thick, with the top three inches being a flat taper down to something less than a half inch. Does that make sense? A picture would not add much, and I have no free piece to cut an end......

Such a simple profile makes internal corners a doddle without a mitre - two straight cuts will do it. Plenty of external corners though - so an excuse for my new toy. Even some 135 degree corners to test my accuracy. Luckily we are installing a woodburner too, so I have a use for my mistakes.

EDIT: PS Very West Somerset - I can walk from the door to Exmoor National Park in about ten minutes.


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## blackrodd (30 Jan 2014)

Off topic.
My maternal grandfather was born in Brompton Regis, Mother born in Lynton. Lovely part of the south west.
Motorbike in the summer, Suzuki Jimny in the winter! Regards Rodders


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## carlb40 (30 Jan 2014)

DrPhill":1gdta1ax said:


> The skirting profile is 6+ inches measured from the carpet, so 7 inches nominal is probably close. Slightly less than an inch thick, with the top three inches being a flat taper down to something less than a half inch. Does that make sense? A picture would not add much, and I have no free piece to cut an end......
> 
> Such a simple profile makes internal corners a doddle without a mitre - two straight cuts will do it. Plenty of external corners though - so an excuse for my new toy. Even some 135 degree corners to test my accuracy. Luckily we are installing a woodburner too, so I have a use for my mistakes.
> 
> EDIT: PS Very West Somerset - I can walk from the door to Exmoor National Park in about ten minutes.


Noooooooooo, any profiled skirting gets coped on internal corners. Mitred internal corners are for cowboys :lol:


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## DrPhill (30 Jan 2014)

blackrodd":7rxj62nr said:


> Off topic.
> My maternal grandfather was born in Brompton Regis, Mother born in Lynton. Lovely part of the south west.
> Motorbike in the summer, Suzuki Jimny in the winter! Regards Rodders



Hey its my topic and I don't mind. My parents came down here before I was born. So did I. Been coming down ever since. Most of my working life was aimed at getting down here permanently. Done it now, and even got a good-fun part-time job developing software for Android. What are the chances of managing that? Never would have thought it possible, but just took the chances and got lucky. (where is that 'oh-so-smug' smiley when I need it)


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## DrPhill (1 Mar 2014)

blackrodd":3so5lu87 said:


> As a suggestion, regarding the oak block flooring and the two meeting floors, would a strip of oak or matching timber at about 7"wide, and laid where the wall has been removed, use this as a starter and finisher and cut the blocks into, and away from it. Or even set it as a threshold. Regards Rodders



We have decide to go with this idea. Thanks Rodd.

Anybody have suggestions where I can get a suitable bit of oak in furthest west Somerset?

I need a piece 165 x 2100 x 18mm. I have the technology to shorten it, but would be hard pressed to make it narrower (pin on a batten and route against it). No way have I the tools or skills to thickness it.

All suggestion welcome.

Thanks

Phill


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## carlb40 (1 Mar 2014)

DrPhill":3g0wjccz said:


> blackrodd":3g0wjccz said:
> 
> 
> > As a suggestion, regarding the oak block flooring and the two meeting floors, would a strip of oak or matching timber at about 7"wide, and laid where the wall has been removed, use this as a starter and finisher and cut the blocks into, and away from it. Or even set it as a threshold. Regards Rodders
> ...


Phill where will you get your timber from? If it is a proper timber merchant, then they should be able to machine a piece to that size for you.


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## DrPhill (1 Mar 2014)

carlb40":2t5kpbud said:


> Phill where will you get your timber from? If it is a proper timber merchant, then they should be able to machine a piece to that size for you.



Damn good question........ I am not sure who around here would be classified as a 'good timber merchant'. We have a small TP and a small Jewsons. I dont think we have any others. Taunton is 45-60 minutes drive away, Bridgewater takes longer.

Phill


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## carlb40 (1 Mar 2014)

DrPhill":3fdkrc4v said:


> carlb40":3fdkrc4v said:
> 
> 
> > Phill where will you get your timber from? If it is a proper timber merchant, then they should be able to machine a piece to that size for you.
> ...


Try ebay, there will be a few sellers with timbers around that sort of size and most offer a cutting / maching service.


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## blackrodd (1 Mar 2014)

For decent home grown timber you may well have to travel. There's a good yard at Martock, I've bought from in the past.
I can recomend Bedford timber south molton, all kiln dried and stable, sells yards of oak flooring.
My dad an I have bought from him on and off for years. 
The real solution might be to ask at you're local shop or pub first, just in case there's someone closer first!
HTH Regards Rodders


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## DrPhill (1 Mar 2014)

blackrodd":1qa64mgz said:


> I can recomend Bedford timber south molton, all kiln dried and stable, sells yards of oak flooring.
> My dad an I have bought from him on and off for years.



Thanks for the recommend; I will try phoning him Monday morning. maybe a day out is due.... would you pre-order and trust his timber selection? Or would you arrange to select the timber and have it machined? I have never done this before......



carlb40":1qa64mgz said:


> Try ebay, there will be a few sellers with timbers around that sort of size and most offer a cutting / maching service.



I had a look, and several came up, but which to choose? I do not know how to make sure that I will get good timber.....


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## blackrodd (1 Mar 2014)

Thanks for the recommend; I will try phoning him Monday morning. maybe a day out is due.... would you pre-order and trust his timber selection? Or would you arrange to select the timber and have it machined? I have never done this before......

Jolly good question!
I have always rang to ensure that someone was there and able to serve then picked out my own stuff.
And machined my own. suggest you ask about machining on you're initial enquire
What sort of sizes are you after? Rodders


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## carlb40 (2 Mar 2014)

blackrodd":38qj7a4e said:


> Thanks for the recommend; I will try phoning him Monday morning. maybe a day out is due.... would you pre-order and trust his timber selection? Or would you arrange to select the timber and have it machined? I have never done this before......
> 
> Jolly good question!
> I have always rang to ensure that someone was there and able to serve then picked out my own stuff.
> ...




I need a piece 165 x 2100 x 18mm. I have the technology to shorten it, but would be hard pressed to make it narrower (pin on a batten and route against it). No way have I the tools or skills to thickness it.


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## blackrodd (2 Mar 2014)

Thank's Carl for the prompt, Not paying attention again! 
DR Phil, ask if they will cut and plane a piece for you.
I'm afraid I can't help for a few weeks 'till I get my workshop emptied of motorbikes
Up 'til recently I had my planing done in my local jewsons, but some clever clogs decided that the facility had to go along with the slightly higher wage. Regards Rodders


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## DrPhill (2 Mar 2014)

blackrodd":2y905phc said:


> DR Phil, ask if they will cut and plane a piece for you.


Yes, will do - a phone call on on my list for tomorrow. 


blackrodd":2y905phc said:


> I'm afraid I can't help for a few weeks 'till I get my workshop emptied of motorbikes
> Up 'til recently I had my planing done in my local jewsons, but some clever clogs decided that the facility had to go along with the slightly higher wage. Regards Rodders



I know some folks as would help remove the bikes....... but seriously, I was only after information and you have been helpful with that. Do not express remorse at not being able to do more.

Oh, and on another note, I have finished laying the woodblocks to repair the floor. The miter saw made cutting the blocks very easy and more accurate than I would have managed by hand. Wish I had bought one years ago. The floor does not look up to much as they are all old blocks (in need of a sand). I had to get creative as one half of the room was 12" oak blocks and the other was 9" pine. The scavenged blocks (understairs cupboard) were 9" pine too. I had to steal some oak blocks from the border with the missing wall and replace them with pine blocks so that I had more oak blocks to fill the area by the fire.


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## blackrodd (2 Mar 2014)

Happy to hear the floor blocks are working out O K.
I suppose a bit of work with the right stain would help to hide the oak/pine difference. 
Does the area of block replacement warrant a floor sander or would a belt sander suffice?
Regarding the planing, I'm a bit teed off with being unable to use the workshop, at the moment,
soon to be rectified!
Regards Rodders


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## DrPhill (3 Mar 2014)

blackrodd":1altb85m said:


> Happy to hear the floor blocks are working out O K.
> I suppose a bit of work with the right stain would help to hide the oak/pine difference.
> Does the area of block replacement warrant a floor sander or would a belt sander suffice?
> Regarding the planing, I'm a bit teed off with being unable to use the workshop, at the moment,
> ...



We are not too fussed with a difference between the timbers (or not yet) - we are not aiming for perfection (we do not have enough years left to achieve that here!), and quite like the way that a house shows it's history. We are planning to sand the floor - but research seems to indicate that a belt sander is better for non-experts. We have purchased one and will find out. Some of the blocks (especially the long ones from the original edge) are in need of some preparation - they have mortar from the edge fill. Some other blocks had a slight curve to them. So although the floor looks reasonable, it looks like an old floor in need of tlc.

When we moved here I gave up a double garage (with power) that I used as a workshop. I now only have a single garage off my property with no power. I feel for your loss of workshop - and mine was not even a large part of my life.

Phill


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## blackrodd (4 Mar 2014)

I forgot to mention the previous finish to the blocks may tend to burn and/or clog up the belts.
It may be a good idea to lightly "skim" a few thou from the top of the block, with a electric hand planer,making finish sanding a doddle, when laid. Try and follow the grain.
The added bonus is that you can "match" any colour or grain variations you come will certainly across.
You may well find that the rougher ones would have been saved for using up under the stairs, out of main sight
You could knock up a 3 sided "stop" to keep the blocks safe and secure, on a board, secured on the good old workmate. 
Any cement or former "nasties" can be quickly scraped away first and save a set of blade's.
Sounds long and drawn out but, as usual, preparation is the secret to most jobs. 
Work easy, HTH Regards Rodders


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## DrPhill (5 Mar 2014)

Good ideas Rodders, but the blocks are down now (and I do not own an electric plane). I hope that the colour variations will be minimised when the floor ages - we do not mind some 'history' showing through, and are certainly not aiming for magazine-like perfection. We do plan to sand the entire floor at some stage, but the current priority is getting the hearth so that the burner can be installed.

I poured the hearth base at the weekend (formwork(?) from the old architraves, hand mixed mortar). Will find out next weekend if the base is flat and level enough for the slates. Looks good at present testing with a level.

You and others on this forum are being immensely helpful to me in this project for which I am truly grateful. 

Phill


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## blackrodd (5 Mar 2014)

If I had the time, I would come and do these jobs for you so's you can go make another Beautiful box.
What a fantastic job that has turned out to be, not that I'm qualified to be a Judge.
Can I ask how many hours that took?
Regards Rodders


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## DrPhill (6 Mar 2014)

blackrodd":2vbnai78 said:


> If I had the time, I would come and do these jobs for you so's you can go make another Beautiful box.
> What a fantastic job that has turned out to be, not that I'm qualified to be a Judge.
> Can I ask how many hours that took?
> Regards Rodders



Very kind thoughts there, I thank you.

The box was a labour of love, produced over a period of about a year for my partner. Since I had no dedicated workshop I had to work on it when she was out or when the weather was good enough to work outside. I guess it took several hundred hours, but I have no real idea. And I have no way to judge it's quality except that I am (almost) satisfied with it. (The silhouettes are of close family members btw).

I am not sure that I have another like it in me - I need to be inspired and motivated to a particular project and no two projects are the same. I made the first two boxes for her children's marriages - a way to use my assets when I was time rich and money poor. The timber was reclaimed from a set of shelves we removed when altering the house we lived in, so cost in money was almost nothing.

As for doing my DIY, well you are always welcome, but part of the satisfaction is doing for myself what I can do for myself. Part of the disatisfaction is the lack of perfection of course. :lol:


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## DrPhill (11 Mar 2014)

OK, lets resurrect my old thread rather than create a new one.....

I think I would like to use my router to give a small amount of profile to plain boards to make skirtings and architraves. There are some original windows in the room, ad the timber has simple 45 degree bevel as only decoration. It would seem sensible to try to match this with the skirting.

I have a reasonable amount of routing practice, and want to use the biggest (1/4" shank) bearing-guided 45 degree bevel that I can find. I can find a 9mm cut for example. Does anyone know of bigger, or am I limited by shank size?

Also, while we are on the topic, would MDF take as good a finish from routing as would pine? We are planning on painted skirts and architraves, so the appearance of the raw material is less important than its other features (eg consistency, availability and cost). Any opinions? Do picture rail profiles come in MDF? I have almost never used the stuff and not for serious work, just jigs and frames..

All help gratefully received.

Phill


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## carlb40 (11 Mar 2014)

From what everyone has said in other threads and i asked about last year. Moisture resistant mdf is better for edge profiling as it isn't as fluffy. 

As to the bits you might be better off going through various online catalogues and finding out who makes the biggest in a 1/4 inch shank. I just had a quick look on the axi site and they do an 11mm depth of cut in a 1/4 inch. Having grabbed their paper catalogue axi do a 14.5mm cut in the 1/4 shank. 
Others to try are wealden, titman, trend.


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## DrPhill (14 Mar 2014)

Thanks for the pointers - very helpful. Wealden do do a 12mm in a 1/4" shank, which is almost enough. I am measuring max depth of 45 degree slope, not counting any vertical cutting face. 

However, they also do a 15mm in an 8mm shank, and I think this is as big as I should need. 

When I bought my Trend router it had a second whatchama-collet(?) This may well be an 8mm, but how can I be sure? Trend do do an 8mm collet, and the size looks about right (gently squeezed shut round a 1/4" shank leaves about the right size gap". Anybody have any guesses? Are other sizes possible/likely? How do I get a collet out of a collet-nut?.

I am worried about the fluffiness of MDF, and the fact that the job has two long runs: 3.9m and 4.7m from memory. My impression is that MDF at those lengths might be a bit fragile for transport and handling. The 4.7m run is almost certainly going to need a join (but I will move this as close to the corner as I can). The 3.9 should be do-able with a 4.2m length (if I can get one home).

Phill


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## blackrodd (14 Mar 2014)

I would check the 8mm(?) collet by getting someone to check their 8mm cutter with you're collet that you have in yer pocket.
Don't let the centre mitre cut worry you. 
Take a decent handsaw with you and cut them in the wood yard. make sure the skirting is well supported.
Mark/cut the skirting @ 45 degrees and mark both sides to identify the pairs.
Should you be a little out on the cut, or even way out, it won't matter as you have the matching pair, so they have to fit.
You may be aware that 1 rule of thumb fitting skirting, first piece fitted goes in opposite the door, blank each end.
Do not mitre internals corners, they are rarely 90 and there are shrinkage issues.
Easiest way to mark the SCRIBE to suit the 1st piece just fitted is to cut the skirting off the end at 45 degrees, as if it were for an internal, then the inside edge where the mitre ends is a perfect scribe of the profile. 
The other end is a blank.
You may mark and cut from an offcut should you find that easier. use a coping saw and a fine saw for the "straights"
Accurate measuring is king! 2, or 3, times! Bad language upsets the dog!
Fluffy is no problem, just sand gently and prime and when dry, the second coat should show a good enough finish.
Pre moulded has none of these problems 'cos the moulding and priming is all ready done for you!
Are you sticking or nail/screw fixing? HTH Regards Rodders


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## Benchwayze (15 Mar 2014)

Skirting doesn't have to be made in one piece. You could fix it so there's a small void behind it, (similar to wainscoting) even using MDF if you wished. It's fixed to the wall by a top batten, with a supporting batten behind it, along the floor and some verticals for stability. A separate moulding is planted on the top,. You wouldn't need to have a full skirting machined. Just the moulding along the top. You might loose an inch or so all round the room, but the finished job looks the business, and you choose your own depth and moulding. The moulding could be made from some good pine, to avoid the 'fluff'. 

Just a thought.


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## DrPhill (15 Mar 2014)

Wow, lots to think of there, thanks.



Benchwayze":1s3pmup4 said:


> Skirting doesn't have to be made in one piece. You could fix it so there's a small void behind it, (similar to wainscoting) even using MDF if you wished. It's fixed to the wall by a top batten, with a supporting batten behind it, along the floor and some verticals for stability. A separate moulding is planted on the top,.


 Now here is a thought: if I fix a batten to the wall level with the top of the skirting with screws, can I then attach the skirting with lost head nails? How thick would the pieces need to be for this to work, I wonder? We have chosen a simple profile as this house was originally a quality-but-budget victorian abode, and the remaining original woodwork has a simple chamfer decoration. 45 degrees on the window frames, maybe 30 degrees on the other skirtings. Fortunately I can manage to cut this with a bearing-guided routers.



blackrodd":1s3pmup4 said:


> Don't let the centre mitre cut worry you.
> Take a decent handsaw with you and cut them in the wood yard. make sure the skirting is well supported.
> Mark/cut the skirting @ 45 degrees and mark both sides to identify the pairs.
> Should you be a little out on the cut, or even way out, it won't matter as you have the matching pair, so they have to fit.


 Now that is practical. I will give that a try.



blackrodd":1s3pmup4 said:


> You may be aware that 1 rule of thumb fitting skirting, first piece fitted goes in opposite the door, blank each end.


 I was thinking of starting there because that is the longest run. But I see the generalised logic matches this particular case.



blackrodd":1s3pmup4 said:


> Do not mitre internals corners, they are rarely 90 and there are shrinkage issues.
> Easiest way to mark the SCRIBE to suit the 1st piece just fitted is to cut the skirting off the end at 45 degrees, as if it were for an internal, then the inside edge where the mitre ends is a perfect scribe of the profile.


 I have a bit of trouble picturing this.... for a 90 degree corner I would have used a 90 degree cut as a template. Perhaps I am missing some essential point?



DrPhill":1s3pmup4 said:


> You may mark and cut from an offcut should you find that easier. use a coping saw and a fine saw for the "straights"
> Accurate measuring is king! 2, or 3, times! Bad language upsets the dog!


 Luckily the profile will all be straights..... and even getting the tools out scares the younger dog.


Again thanks, I tend to assume that I will be able to do a job and often I can. But more often I find after that there were some tools, techniques or approaches that would have made the job easier and the result better. Folks on this forum really do help me miss out a few learning mistakes and let me benefit from their experience. It makes a big difference.

Phill


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## Benchwayze (15 Mar 2014)

12 mm battening on the wall, 12 mm thick MDF for the body of the skirting, would give you 24 mm projection, which is about right for the thickness of normal skirting. 
I suppose you could use 12 mm Moisture resistant MDF for the battening too. (I would prefer timber for attaching to walls. TBH) 

Phil.. I found that needing special or additional tools for a new project was one way of gradually collecting my tools over the years. 

HTH


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## carlb40 (15 Mar 2014)

TBH if you are using mdf for skirting etc, hire a nailgun. It will get very boring/tiresome predrilling mdf for lost head nails.


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## DrPhill (15 Mar 2014)

Benchwayze":ow90uo7g said:


> Phil.. I found that needing special or additional tools for a new project was one way of gradually collecting my tools over the years.


 And on this project they can come out of the joint account........  



carlb40":ow90uo7g said:


> TBH if you are using mdf for skirting etc, hire a nailgun. It will get very boring/tiresome predrilling mdf for lost head nails.


 I did not know that I would need to drill for lost head nails - I thought they were just banged in - shows what I know  . I had imagined drilling holes in wall and screwing through the board (yep, even I know that needs predrilling) into rawplugs. 

Though if the rawplugs are wood then I could nail through..... ah I see now this is where lost-head nails come in - smaller hole than a screw. Never done anything like that before.

Nail gun sounds scary - will it nail normal pine skirtings to the wall or only pine? What are the down sides? A 'missed' shot could make a mess and take some cleaning up if it mangles the wood.


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## Benchwayze (15 Mar 2014)

DrPhill":13rkg1lf said:


> Benchwayze":13rkg1lf said:
> 
> 
> > Phil.. I found that needing special or additional tools for a new project was one way of gradually collecting my tools over the years.
> ...



Phil,

You can get nail-guns with laser-sights! :---) 

:lol:


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## carlb40 (15 Mar 2014)

DrPhill":32m4zzsv said:


> Benchwayze":32m4zzsv said:
> 
> 
> > Phil.. I found that needing special or additional tools for a new project was one way of gradually collecting my tools over the years.
> ...



I was thinking if you went with the mdf batten/ skirting route and decide to use lost head nails. Predrilling will stop the mdf splitting  If using softwood instead of mdf then yes just bang them in. (hammer) LOL 

If you are using wooden plugs in the perps of the brickwork as long as your marking out is good, you should be ok.


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## carlb40 (15 Mar 2014)

Benchwayze":3sgja1up said:


> DrPhill":3sgja1up said:
> 
> 
> > Benchwayze":3sgja1up said:
> ...



Those are soooo 2012 LOL

I use the new type with built in stud finder, never miss now as it bleeps where ever i put it on the skirting. :lol:


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## blackrodd (16 Mar 2014)

Loads of equally good advice there.
Personally, I am a big fan of Gripfill, (green tube) sticking helps make the job simples, no noise or drilling or filling or pelleting.
Once the skirting is cut and fitting, Wipe off any dust from the walls, Nice big blobs, on the skirting, a bit less than half a boiled egg, (longways) every 2ft, place in position, on the wall and twist/move the board about, on the wall, helps adhesion and stops "skin"forming. 
I go around clockwise, and therefore cut the scribe into the fitted skirting on the left, makes the straight cut easier with a panel saw,before the moulding part. (if yer right handed)!
under cut slightly, so the outer moulded face protrudes more for a better fit on the face.
HTH Regards Rodders


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## DrPhill (16 Mar 2014)

Yeah, I am tempted by the gripfill solution. I may be old-fashioned but I still think of these as being part of the 'no more proper jobs' range.

But for skirting and architraves they look just too tempting. I can even paint up the boards first - at least the mat coats - and save the risk of painting the beautifully polished and waxed block flooring. Well it is not beautiful and polished yet, but that is the plan. Also I have decided that pine is the way to go rather than mdf. We were chuffed-to-nuts to find woodblock flooring and some quarry tiling in the house. Maybe in a few decades some renovators would prefer to find pine rather than MDF. Or am I going soft in the head? (of course that means I need to do the joining well). Perhaps, as when I was painting the window frame I was wondering about the guy that first painted it when my grand-dad was a nipper.


I am not sure I would trust gripfill for the picture rail - that might be tempting fate? I have not used the stuff a lot so I do not know what its MTTF is. Any opinions?


On another thread I was looking for an oak plank to fill the gap where the wall was. I got one by an odd route..... the chap in Jewsons recommended a 'carpenter' on the same trading estate, so I phoned him. He was polite, but not too enthusiastic but said that they were cutting up some oak so he would see what he could do. When I went to collect it I was somewhat embarrassed to find that the place specialised in bespoke hardwood windows and doors  . My gash plank was machined to the exact size and had a shine on it - the cutters must have been sharp. Kind of them to help me out, though.

I managed to get a gawp at some of their work and I was droolin'. Forget replacing that bay window with plastic, we are going to save for a bespoke oak fixture. Might take a year to save for that but it would go well with the oak floor. They might even let me watch some of the fabrication. Since a plastic solution would need to be bespoke there may not be much difference in cost any way.


Took a risk on the router bit - and it fits the collet perfectly. I have found that Jewsons _will_ deliver to the _end_ of my road - they just wont come down the slope. So I can get the 4.8m lengths of board and maybe avoid joins as long as I do a bit of carrying.


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