# mitre saw depth of cut



## dicktimber (13 Jul 2009)

I just watched a programme where a guy was making a chest of drawers.
For the drawer back and side attachment he used a housing joint which he cut on his sliding mitresaw, nibbling away to the required width.
My question is 
Can the sliding mitre saws be set at a set depth, so you don't cut all the way through a piece of stock?
or was it just a matter of judging the depth every time he made a pass ( which to be honest would be very difficult?

Mike


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## Argus (13 Jul 2009)

.

Mike, 

I believe that most do in one form or another. 

My DeWalt, for example, has a depth stop arrangement, consisting of a pivoted plastic arm that connects with an adjustable bolt and locking wing nut connected to the descending saw body. For full-depth cuts it is swung upwards out of the way.

It's not exact, but good enough to limit a first-cut depth if you are able to complete the trench or the cut cut by hand. 

I have used it for excavating the cheeks of some very wide tenons in the past and then finished with a shoulder plane, though this method is quick it makes a lot of sawdust!



.


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## OPJ (13 Jul 2009)

Mike, with most sliding mitre saws, yes, you can set the depth of cut for trenching cuts. On some models, this feature is easier to set and more accurate than others... It is also something you may not find on some cheaper or older saws.

When making trenching cuts like this, it is important to add a 'false fence' (18mm is usually fine) so that your blade makes a clean, square cut through the back edge. Otherwise, you end up with a curved finish because of the blade's 'resting' position... I hope that makes sense!


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## Derek Willis. (13 Jul 2009)

Mike, some saws have the simplest form of depth stop, look at the top of your saw, toward the rear, you may see a bolt with a keep nut that can be adjusted to stop the saw blade going down to the full depth, this is a very simple method employed by many manufacturers.
Derek.


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## dicktimber (13 Jul 2009)

I only have a mitresaw without the slide function at the moment but was looking to upgrade.
After I posted I looked on the Axminster site and found a Bosch video of the GCM8F, which is very impressive. The depth is set with some small setting blocks.
I was thinking this could be a good way to quickly make tenon shoulders.
Any suggestions on which is the best value for money?
Mike


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## Steve Maskery (13 Jul 2009)

Mike
My experience is that SCMSs are not that good at doing this task. I've used A DW and I have a Bosch GMS10. Yes you can set the depth, but it's not that precise and the scoop at the back that Olly mentions is a pain. You'll almost certainly have to fettle every single tenon by hand. If the SCMS is your only machine, then fair enough, but if you have a tablesaw there are much better options (ahem!) and a bandsaw will do a better job, too, with little or no fettling.

I used to have a RAS and sold it in favour of the SCMS. It wasn't my smartest-ever move.

S


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## Derek Willis. (13 Jul 2009)

Mike, 
Whilst I can't offer you advice on which saw to buy, it depends on your pocket, you'll find it much easier to cut tenon shoulders on a router table instead. Check out my method on page 5 jigs and tips, very easy.
Derek.


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## Argus (13 Jul 2009)

dicktimber":1i9xiwbu said:


> I only have a mitresaw without the slide function at the moment but was looking to upgrade.
> After I posted I looked on the Axminster site and found a Bosch video of the GCM8F, which is very impressive. The depth is set with some small setting blocks.
> I was thinking this could be a good way to quickly make tenon shoulders.
> Any suggestions on which is the best value for money?
> Mike




Go into this with your eyes open. The more you pay, the better the machine will be and the less will be your disappointment that you will get with a relatively cheap unit. Plus it's not just buying a mite saw..... it's all the other bits that go with it to make it a successful exercise from start to finish.

Here's my personal experience:

Remember it will do tenon shoulders, but it is not a tenoner and setting itup will be a time consuming fiddle. It won't make ready-to-fit tenons straight off. All it does is to remove a large amount of waste quickly so you can size by hand.


To make tenons, you will be excavating a lot of wood with a relatively narrow blade needing a lot of passes and creating a great deal of noise and dust. 

Make sure that the angle adjustments are clear and simple - it will always go a tad out of true after use.... especially if the manufacturer says it won't! 
I aim to check mine every time I use it and always adjust if necessary, (you will need an accurate engineers square).


In any case the tenon shoulders will need to be cut oversized and finished to size by hand, so you will definitely need a good shoulder plane for this.

Finally consider the blade. The bog standard blade you get with any mitre saw is intended for cross cutting at a level of a site chippy's second-fix quality. You may need to factor in the cost of upgrading the blade for a fine cut without cross grain tear-out for the shoulders. 

Having said all that, my machine does produce good tenons when required, but that isn't its main role.

My best tenons are cut by hand.




.


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## dicktimber (13 Jul 2009)

Thank's all for the tips.
I had a EUREEEEEEEKA MOMENT!!!!
I have been making a frame for a new router table, and having decided that I needed to practice on M&T's as I had not done any for a while, spent time setting up on the band saw.
While the tenons are tight and square, the monotony was driving me mad.
Seeing the Bosch video, like all promotional videos made it look easier.....................

I must be a salesmans dream!!!!!!

Mike


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## mpooley (13 Jul 2009)

I have a Bosch GMS10 and I think its a pain to set up and very inprecise :? 
I also have a RAS which is more or less perfick BUT it is a long winded job cutting a big tenon and noisy and dusty and it still needs fettling up with a shoulder Plane for fine work :shock: 

having said that thats how i do most of my tenons and am happy with it 

all the best

Mike Pooley


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