# Axminster MB9020 Benchtop Planer Thicknesser Mini Review



## Chems (19 May 2010)

image

Mod edit to remove commercial link.


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## wizer (19 May 2010)

Interesting. Looks like this might be a viable option for beginners. But I'd like to hear your report after a few months of use. Or are you selling it as soon as the SIP comes back?


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## Chems (19 May 2010)

No the sip is sold. Its going to get very hard use over the next month. Its a brilliant option for budget/beginners/lack of space.


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## Richard D (20 May 2010)

Oooh. Keep us informed. I am *so* tempted to get a P/T, but don't have teh space or the case for a "proper" machine. I'd written off benchtop machinery as being too lightweight and insubstantial for proper work, but maybe I was being too hasty.

I'm particularly interested to know how well it holds up after some use, and how well it copes with harder timber.


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## Chems (20 May 2010)

I did white oak on the SIP and it was fine. Ate it up. I see no difference in performance between this and the sip vs the Axminster AWPT102 I had before. In fact the switch between modes is better.


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## stoatyboy (20 May 2010)

It looks almost identical to my woodstar PT85 - which I really can't get on with mainly due to the fence flexing and so useless and lack of adjustment for the tables.

keep us posted as the price looks good


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## 9fingers (20 May 2010)

I hope to be proved wrong but it is difficult to see how a machine retailing at that price would not have had a good few design/material compromises to cause trouble after a while.

The real skill is producing these machines so they work so well out of the box and only deteriorate after some use.

It will be very interesting to see how it fares after the heavy use that you plan for it.

Bob


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## Chems (21 May 2010)

image

Mod edit.


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## sparkymarky (21 May 2010)

just ordered mine on your recommendation chems, i`ll keep an update on mine aswell. got a good few meters of seasoned devon oak to chew though, that`ll test it no doubt.


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## joiner_sim (21 May 2010)

Thanks for posting this up, the online catalogue pictures and description really do not show how the machine actually works. It looks like it can do some heavy work! I would be interested along with everyone else on how it is in a few months time, obviously blades might need changing, as general maintenance, but how the actual motor of the machine runs is what I'm interested in really.


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## sparkymarky (24 May 2010)

the planer arrived today, really pleased with it. 
the dust extractor attachment is a bit of a fiddle to fit when in planing mode.
took down some old pine i had with ease and it also made light work of a few scraps of oak as well.
would recommend to anyone who needs a planer thicknesser on a tight budget.


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## Chems (24 May 2010)

You get more practised at it after a while the switch over. 

Mines still going strong.


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## Recky33 (10 Jul 2010)

Hi Chems.

Have you had any problems at all over the last few months, Is it still going strong ?

Allan


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## Chems (10 Jul 2010)

Still going strong!


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## Mike.C (10 Jul 2010)

Chems":2mncd0s7 said:


> Still going strong!



Sorry Chems but I seemed to have missed this first time around  Sounds like just the thing when space is tight.

Thank you for taking the time to bring this to us.

Cheers

Mike


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## sparkymarky (10 Jul 2010)

mines still going strong aswell, i`ve put a vast amount of oak & pine though it with great results and i havent even needed to change the blades yet.
as i mentioned in my last post about the extraction unit hiting the micro-switch, i did have some issues with it to start with but i certianly got the hang of it in no time.


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## Chems (20 Jul 2010)

Continuing on with the test I'd like to highlight the excellent dust extraction. I thicknessed some 8 inch wide pine boards today, put a fresh bag on at the start and filled the entire bag. This was all that was left on the table once it was finished. My previous thickness planer left a huge pile on the floor. I think it helped that the piece was as wide as the planer would allow. 

















Its earned its keep so far!


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## cjp (21 Jul 2010)

Hi Chems,

Thanks for posting this, it's great to see a machine in actual use. I'll be looking at my first such machine in the next 3-6 months and this'll be useful. Can I ask what kind of work you do with this? And do you find the 8" width enough? I look at the bigger machines, but I think that my budget -and lack of space!- would prevent me getting one of those, so maybe this is the machine I'm looking for.

Cheers,

Charlie


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## Chems (21 Jul 2010)

Have a look at my website for pictures of my work I've done with it, link below \/


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## cjp (23 Jul 2010)

Really nice work Chems. That's convinced me that this machine is more than suitable for my needs, as I'm no-where even near that league yet. I best get saving!


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## Chems (23 Jul 2010)

Thanks CJP.

The thing I've realised about P/T is that they are a rough tool. Its just the first stage, sanding, scraping, hand planing give the final finish. This machine gets the stock square and true so I'm very happy with it.


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## ciscoeuk (27 Jul 2010)

i would like to ask, i am looking to replace my separate ryobi thicknesser and rexon jointer, to one machine

i have look at the EB 260m on the bay, but a little to big for my shop, 

would you rate this unit as a good purchase? at £177

have you had any problems with the unit, niggles etc

the fox version is very similar 

i have read the post i get the impression that for the machine is to your liking


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## Chems (27 Jul 2010)

Its perfect, does exactly whats needed, its only got 2 small let downs, the length of the tables means you can't joint very long edges anything over 1.3 meters easily. And the noise, its a brush motor and makes a lot of noise, which is fine if your well isolated from your neighbours.


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## ciscoeuk (27 Jul 2010)

Chems":3pwzxz6u said:


> Its perfect, does exactly whats needed, its only got 2 small let downs, the length of the tables means you can't joint very long edges anything over 1.3 meters easily. And the noise, its a brush motor and makes a lot of noise, which is fine if your well isolated from your neighbours.



thanks

the fox version has an induction motor but is £289

neibours are ok, but i might have to pad the garage, 

one thing i did ready is the use of 2 set of ear protection try these noise cancelling ear defenders they cost from £40 but worth every penny, take from someone who has 30% hearing loss, the best way to cancel hi noise is with noise like music

http://www.thepresentfinder.co.uk/produ ... =base_feed


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## cjp (28 Jul 2010)

> measure twice, cut once, WATCH THE FINGERS!... Ouch, that's another one gone!!!



My dad gave me similar advice "Measure twice, cut once". One day I hope to make larger projects than just shelves. But I can't figure out how to make a table with just one cut.......... :roll:


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## Eric The Viking (28 Jul 2010)

ciscoeuk":5jgyeu4z said:


> the best way to cancel hi noise is with noise like music.



I may be misunderstanding, but if you're using music to drown out the sound, you really, really don't want to be doing that with modern digitaly recorded music*.

I couldn't find the paper I was looking for (around 1980-ish), but this one: 
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10465907 pretty much covers the same ground. 

Basically, what it means is, if you listen to digital drum tracks on headphones, you run the risk of notching your hearing at the exact points used most for recognising speech. Impulse noise (percussion, shooting, etc.) is the most quickly damaging, but planers, routers, saws, etc. also do harm. Hearing damage from environmental factors (loud noise) is almost always permanent.

The audio industry picked up on this at the start of digits, which is why professional headphones often nowadays have sound limiters built in. There is talk amongst those in the know, of a "deaf generation" in 10-20 years' time, when the effects of over-use of iPods etc., kicks in and that generation become forty-somethings. 

The best thing, for your hearing's long-term health, is good ear defenders together with well-fitting soft earplugs.

I'm not trying to put you down at all, but I used to make my living with my ears, so I had to know the risks. 

Cheers,

E.

*digital percussion can be louder than it appears to the brain, which is one factor in how the ear gets quickly damaged (likewise with target shooting and drop forges). Audio from analogue tape doesn't trick the ear in the same way, so doesn't tend to be as harmful.


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## Chems (28 Jul 2010)

I'm ok at protecting me own ears, its others ears I'm worried about. 

Regarding ears. I go for a very indepth medical every few years with the Fire Service, my first one was about 2 years ago when I joined. My hearing was perfect. 6 months ago I had another, and bemusing to the nurse who does it, 6hz on my hearing is completely dead. I started woodworking about 3 months after joining the fire service. I didn't buy my first set of ear defenders till about a year and half in. So I'm guessing that one of my tools killed off my hearing.


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## Eric The Viking (28 Jul 2010)

Chems":mxwpwqpr said:


> I'm ok at protecting me own ears, its others ears I'm worried about.
> 
> Regarding ears. I go for a very indepth medical every few years with the Fire Service, my first one was about 2 years ago when I joined. My hearing was perfect. 6 months ago I had another, and bemusing to the nurse who does it, 6hz on my hearing is completely dead. I started woodworking about 3 months after joining the fire service. I didn't buy my first set of ear defenders till about a year and half in. So I'm guessing that one of my tools killed off my hearing.



'Fraid that's likely. 

The original research I couldn't find was on a village in Siberia that had a drop forge and almost no other industry or mechanization. The researchers had a perfect control group, as residents either worked at the forge or didn't (in which case they were almost certainly not exposed to damaging sound). They found that within a year, workers developed notches at the crucial 3-4kHz band (important for speech sibilance and formants). 

There was some other research (although I never saw a full write-up) on Saharan tribesmen, who still had 20Hz to 20kHz at the age of 70+, proving (in their case) that without environmental noise the ear doesn't necessarily lose its top end response. I believe some specialists think that the high noise levels of the Western world (traffic, radio/TV/music, machines, etc.) are largely responsible for the 'normal' fall-off in HF response as people get older.

I try hard to look after my own ears, but I haven't had them properly checked in ages (since I stopped working in the broadcast industry). I think my own HF is tailing off , but I don't know how badly.


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## Chems (28 Jul 2010)

All part and parcel of getting older. I can suffer not hearing so great if it means I get to enjoy modern life. 

My boss is sure he's slightly deaf because of the constant sounds of sirens for the 30 years he's been in. 

The interesting thing about my hearing, and if I could find the printout I'd show you, was that it was perfectly normal through the range, then just bang, stone cold deaf in 6hz and then after that fine again. It was so odd she tested me twice thinking I'd just missed it.


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## ciscoeuk (28 Jul 2010)

Eric The Viking":e0oydzmq said:


> Chems":e0oydzmq said:
> 
> 
> > I'm ok at protecting me own ears, its others ears I'm worried about.
> ...



do you recommend NC ears or would you say the plugs and muffs are better?


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## Eric The Viking (28 Jul 2010)

ciscoeuk":m6nqejv9 said:


> do you recommend NC ears or would you say the plugs and muffs are better?



I would guess that in this case plugs and muffs are better. 

NC works best at low-mid frequencies (wavelengths where it can have the biggest effect). I doubt it works well at high energy levels and high frequencies, and in any case it's risky, as you're nulling-out rather than attenuating (making smaller) the unwanted noise. 

Plugs and muffs will greatly help, as both are most effective at higher frequencies - the ones that do the most damage at high energy levels. You've also got two lines of defence, and no danger of nasty surprises.

FWIW, I always wear soft earplugs on long-haul flights, and listen to the in-flight movie with the plugs in under the headphones (usually take my own). It kills the jet noise pretty effectively.

I use noise-cancelling algorithms in audio editing software. It's very hard to make it work effectively, especially at HF, although it's separating out sounds rather than cancelling everything. I wouldn't trust NC headphones to protect my ears at all, although they might do fairly well with jet noise, as it's pretty constant and pretty broad spectrum, and a lot quieter than a planer!

Your mileage, etc.


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## cjp (18 Aug 2010)

Well I ordered mine last night, and it looks set to arrive tomorrow. Only problem is, it's Chagford show tomorrow and I'm gonna have to decide between cider and playing with the new toy. Probably unwise to combine the two!

Chems & sparkymarky (and others who might own this)- How do you find the working height once it's plonked atop your bench? I know that's a subjective thing, but have you found yourself making a dedicated table so that it's a bit lower? I'll soon find out myself, but I'll pick up some wood before I go out tomorrow if the general consensus is that it needs to be lower. That way I can get straight to work on it Friday (if the hangover isn't too bad that is :lol

Cheers,

Charlie


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## Acanthus (18 Aug 2010)

Hi CJP

I have had a version of this machine for several months, it appears to be identical to the model that Chems has. Mine came with a badge from 'Record' The guy in my local tool shop did a great deal for me, and told me that there are loads of identical machines out there with different badges, but they all come from the same factory somewhere in Italy. Might be true. 

I found that trying to use the machine on my bench was too high for comfort, and I therefore fashioned a low table for it. My table hight is 500 mm including the locking casters, so that the working height of the planer table is 860 mm, which is perfect for a tall guy with a bad back. 

I am still quite extraordinarily pleased with the work that this little baby does for me, but I dread the day when I will have to attend to the blades. The instructions in the trivial little pamphlet (let us not call it a manual) basically say - work it out for yourself. 

Hope you have as much fun with yours as I am having with mine, and that you have space for a monster composting bin to render down the mountains of shavings ready to use as a mulch for the garden. 

David


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## cjp (19 Aug 2010)

Thanks David, I'll plan to make a stand for it then - I thought that would be the case. Hopefully when one of us needs to change the blades we'll be able to offer each other advice - but who will get there first! :lol: 

As for the shavings, I don't really have the need/space for composting - but if you say they make good compost then I'll stick an ad up in my local area as I'm sure someone will appreciate them. I must admit that the smaller amounts I've had so far I've just been incinerating, which does seem a shame. Thanks for the tip.

Charlie


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## ciscoeuk (19 Aug 2010)

any of you guys herd of 


freecycle, why no check them out great way of stopping stuff going to landfill

http://www.uk.freecycle.org/


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## cjp (20 Aug 2010)

Thanks ciscoeuk I'll check that out.

I'm just assembling the machine and I notice the fence doesn't seem to run totally parallel to the tables. It seems to overhang a touch on the outfeed, and too far in on the infeed. I have set it up as per the manual, so I can't see that I've done anything wrong.

In practice does this matter?

Charlie


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## 9fingers (20 Aug 2010)

cjp":2g7mheqt said:


> Thanks ciscoeuk I'll check that out.
> 
> I'm just assembling the machine and I notice the fence doesn't seem to run totally parallel to the tables. It seems to overhang a touch on the outfeed, and too far in on the infeed. I have set it up as per the manual, so I can't see that I've done anything wrong.
> 
> ...



I can't see that mattering. It is out in the right direction as you want to support the timber in the infeed side. The edges of the knives must be under the fence by a little to ensure you cut the full width of the wood.

Check that the fence is flat by comparing to the tables in several places and that you can mount it at exactly 90 degrees to the plane of the tables.

Bob


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## cjp (20 Aug 2010)

Ideal thanks Bob, I was able to get the fence to 90 degrees with no problems. Done my first cut - very happy!  

Cheers,

Charlie


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## MichaelM (7 Oct 2010)

I have read this thread with great interest as I too have been considering this planer but there are a couple of issues raised by a two part video review I saw on the Woodford version of it. 

http://il.youtube.com/watch?v=E7UKx8ccpC0

http://il.youtube.com/watch?v=YNTTusX_0YE

In the videos the owner refers to the infeed surfacing table not lowering itself equally on each side i.e. exposing slightly more of the blade on one side than the other. He says that when given a thump it drops down but seems to imply that it will not stay there which needless to say would do nothing for accuracy. He also referred to blade height issues whereby the blade on his planer has to be set quite a bit above the outfeed table otherwise the marks made by the feed roller on the thicknesser don't get planed off. I'd be very interested to hear the opinions of owners on those issues just in case this person simply got a poor one. I'm also curious as to how to adjust the bed in the thicknesser so it is exactly parallel with the blades. Like many others I'm on a very tight budget nowadays and basically I'd like to know if this machine is generally better than the one the reviewer has.

I've never had a planer thicknesser before, but given that I recently was very dismayed at a price I was quoted for some pitch pine skirting etc I decided it might not be a bad idea to make it myself. With that in mind, would this planer possibly be too small for playing its part in doing that? 

Thanks,

Michael


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## alec (7 Oct 2010)

I have had 2 MB9020 planer/thicknessers and have got to say disapointed with both. The first would not cut edges straight and the second kept siezing, in the end i got a good deal on a second hand Metabohc260 off ebay and not looked back. Quite a few of the members have bought the axi and had good results i personally would not recommend it. The upside is if you buy one from axminster and have issues with it their after sales and service are second to none and problems are resolved quickly and without a fuss.


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## Chems (7 Oct 2010)

Still very happy with mine. Getting good results from it and its done a lot of work.


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## MichaelM (9 Oct 2010)

Thanks lads for the replies. 

Alec, you would rate the Metabo then as a good buy? Funnily enough I have been watching a couple of them on ebay, well the Electra Beckum versions, but mostly they are collection only and that isn't an option for me. I really can't afford to be spending too much at this point so it's either going to have to be the Axminster or something used at roughly similar money I suppose. 

Chems, could I ask since you are undoubtedly pleased with your Axminster planer and have had it some time now, have you had any similar experiences to the chap in the video review at all? Would you say yours is reliably accurate, i.e. once set does it stay that way and what would your thoughts be on using it for longer lengths of timber say for skirting for instance?

Thanks again,

Michael


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## 9fingers (9 Oct 2010)

Michael, 

One other option might be for you to say in your profile where you live and then see if any member locally would put your boards through their thicknesser for a few beer tokens or favours in kind etc.

Quite a few members here are retired and have decent workshops and could help. if you are near me I could certainly give you a hand.

Bob


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## MichaelM (9 Oct 2010)

9fingers":102b9fel said:


> Michael,
> 
> One other option might be for you to say in your profile where you live and then see if any member locally would put your boards through their thicknesser for a few beer tokens or favours in kind etc.
> 
> ...



Bob, thank you very much sincerely for the very kind offer and it is indeed that, but I live in Co Down. I have enough ideas in my head to justify buying a machine not to mention the fact that I am trying to put together a small but viable workshop myself hence my interest in the little Axminster model. To that end I have just taken delivery of Rutlands large router table to add to the gear I have with one of Axminsters TS 200 table saws to follow at some point before the vat goes up. I have one of their AWESBS bandsaws and apart from the irritating bearing adjustment on it, I can't fault it at all. Once I set it up I was able to rip 1mm slices with it consistently which is very impressive for a bit of Chinese iron. 

I am being realistic however and realise that in most walks of life you get what you pay for, with some notable exceptions. I'm wondering if this little planer thicknesser might be one of them and that the people who got bad ones were in the minority, though the fact that Alec got two in a row is something to be taken into consideration.

As far as buying second hand on Ebay goes you can see the problem. I have gotten a few heavy items brought over to Ireland but in general it is a fairly unattractive proposition for someone to package up large items for transport and for that reason it is rarely an option. There are two Electra Beckums on Ebay at the moment; one never used which was very attractive and the other approximately ten years old which given that I read that the tables wear on them would really need to be seen before purchase I suppose but since neither seller will package it's a moot point anyway.

With regards to my previous questions regarding long lengths I have found the answer in one of Chems posts that I missed first time around. Sadly due to the small tables 1.3 metres is its limit for jointing.

I suppose if nothing else turns up I will have to bite the bullet, get one and simply learn to work within its limitations. Damn it, I hate being a perfectionist on a budget!

Thanks again Bob, you're a gentleman,

Michael


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## Chems (9 Oct 2010)

Yeah you can't join really long lengths easily. But to be honest thats always a struggle on a machine. I recently jointed some long lengths with the help of another cabinet maker on a hammer machine with good long beds and it still wasn't easy. I think a good jointer plane is a quicker way. 

With the cloned tools, although they look similar often there can be important little changes. And the things the guy pointed out in the video I haven't had a problem with, my fence defiantly isn't that flimsy and I don't have the same arrangement for the dust chute either. Bottom line, I've had a big axminster combi, a axminster CT150 and used a few other big machines as well as the SIP 6 P/T and lastly and lately the Axminster. And they all did the same job, I ended up with square timber. Its how you got there. The big axminster machine was quietest when thicknessing. The CT150 was always quiet and easiest to use. The SIP P/T wasn't as well made as the axminster one. Starting out or limited space can't beat the axminster small one. But buying again I'd get a CT150 cheap off the bay.


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## MichaelM (10 Oct 2010)

I've never had a P/T before so I do appreciate your insight Chems. The fact that you have been able to compare the small Axminster to other machines and still recommend it makes me think it might be worth taking a chance on if I don't find something a little better in the very near future. As Alec says, Axminster look after their customers very well which is one of the main reasons I normally purchase from them, and if the machine gave me any trouble I know it would be dealt with quickly.

All the best, and thank you,

Michael


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## Chems (10 Oct 2010)

Don't forget as well that the Axy model has 8inch capacity, which at £170 isn't to be sniffed at!


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## MichaelM (4 Nov 2010)

Chems":1jn65mc0 said:


> Don't forget as well that the Axy model has 8inch capacity, which at £170 isn't to be sniffed at!



At £153 even less so! I had pretty much given up on getting much second hand and when I saw the price reduction I jumped at it. I haven't had any time to use it yet other than a bit of a familiarisation process. I watched the wood whisperer video where he checks and adjusts the tables on his planer which has led me to discover that my infeed table is approximately 0.5mm high at its outside end. I can understand the need for perfection on long tables so is this ok on a small machine such as this or should I try to fettle it and get it spot on? Is there even a way to adjust it out? 

I'm guessing there has to be some way of adjusting them if for instance they were badly out. I see that there are allen headed bolts screwing into the tables on each side and was wondering if there is any adjustment available before I loosen them and maybe regret it. I haven't had anything like this before so I am being a little on the cautious side. Has anyone else had a go at this?

Thanks, Michael.


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## PeterSk (4 Nov 2010)

I bought one of these on the strength of Chems' review, haven't regretted it for a second. Only thing I'd say is don't use the blade setting jig that comes with it, use a decent steel rule to set the blade tips level with the outfeed table.


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## MichaelM (5 Nov 2010)

Thanks Peter. I was wondering about that blade setting gadget myself thinking it looked a little awkward so your advice is very welcome.

Can you tell me if you found your tables to be ok? I am probably being overly fussy but I would like to hear from other owners just to be sure. 

Other than those couple of things I am pleasantly surprised just how sturdy this little machine is.

All the best,

Michael


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## PeterSk (5 Nov 2010)

It could well be that I don't really know how to use the blade jig properly as the details and picture in the manual is pretty naff, however when I followed the destructions I found that the machine didn't work

I've not noticed an issue with the tables, but I've not really measured them too hard. However it seems to plane and thickness just fine, so if I do find any slop I probably won't be too concerned


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## SammyQ (6 Nov 2010)

MichaelM, before you purchase the TS200 saw new, are you interested in a pristine one with sliding table, stand, mitre guage, manual (and a few blades) for a price well short of Axminster's? If you are interested, I'm not far away from you in Belfast. PM me here and I'll give you details/phone numbers. 

2 owners from new, both of us weekend warriors, so the saw was never thrashed/trashed on a site and the only reason I'm contemplating moving it on is the great big Wadkin AGS 10" I'm restoring needs the space. 

Sam

PS Would you beleive, that if you do carpe diem....I'll be buying a new planer/thicknesser, now...which one, I ponder....?!!!!


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## PeterSk (2 Dec 2010)

PeterSk":2k61rc3n said:


> It could well be that I don't really know how to use the blade jig properly as the details and picture in the manual is pretty naff, however when I followed the destructions I found that the machine didn't work
> 
> I've not noticed an issue with the tables, but I've not really measured them too hard. However it seems to plane and thickness just fine, so if I do find any slop I probably won't be too concerned



Well I'm certainly eating those words today. After a frustrating time trying to plane some nice white oak I got the other day, careful measuring with my new straight edge has revealed that the outfeed table is not flat and the far end of the infeed table is about 1.5mm below the blade end.

In short, this one is going back to Axy and I'll get a new one only after I've sized up all the tables, as there is no provision for adjustments on these things. D'oh!


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## PeterSk (14 Dec 2010)

Well after a lot of go-around due to Axy's new computer system, a brand new replacement arrived the other day. Tables are flat and co-planar, I've not used it in anger yet but it seems like it's made good


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## TobyB (14 Dec 2010)

Not much space in my workshop, and have to be able to carry stuff down cellar stairs to get there, so bigger machines not considered. I went for the Woodster PT105 as it's wider. It's on my bench at the moment and a few trial runs with some 9" wide walnut planks demonstrates it's going to save me loads of time I'd have spent with hand planes. Surface finish nice when fine cuts taken, but pretty good when done coarser cuts to shift material, although would need fine finishing by hand. I'm very impressed with this little machine - it might not be quick or rugged enough for a hard-working pro workshop - but for my level of use, it could be a very good value.


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## Mark A (26 Jan 2011)

Hi
I am thinking about buying the Axi P/T - has anyone had any problems after a couple of months of use, or is it still ok?

Thanks, Mark


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## Pond (26 Jan 2011)

I am so glad this thread didn't end in 'I was wrong it's in a pile of bits now', as I realised it is 8 months old.

Cos I bought one of these from Ax in High Wycombe last week (a slightly used one for £150) and haven't used it yet!

I am going to make a stand for it though, as it's too high to sit on my bench, the planer table is almost at chest height.


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## MichaelM (25 Feb 2011)

mark aspin":n1rbwktl said:


> Hi
> I am thinking about buying the Axi P/T - has anyone had any problems after a couple of months of use, or is it still ok?
> 
> Thanks, Mark



I have spent a little time using my planer and I feel I have gotten to know it now. I will second what others here have said and that is that with a little care it will churn out square timber in whichever species you desire. I find that less is more with it and that taking small bites at a time reduces snipe as does eyeballing a roller stand at the infeed side of the thicknesser. My tables aren't perfect (both have a slight hollow across the middle and the infeed is about 0.5mm higher at the outer edge) but for the short lengths of oak I have had reason to work with, it coped very well indeed and I have come to very much enjoy my first foray into the world of planer thicknessers.

However, I have three gripes. Number one is the fence, which although fairly sturdy looking does flex a bit under pressure but as I said with a little care and practice, you will compensate. Of course there is also the option of modifying it to your satisfaction. 

Number two is the safety dust extractor hood which when in position for surface planing sometimes makes contact with the knives thus sending a nice spray of black plastic into the air and making a new opening that allows some future woodchips to find a new way out to the side.

Gripe number three may be peculiar to my machine but I doubt it, and that is the alarming tendency of the surface planer infeed table to wind itself down due to vibration while the machine is running. Within a few seconds my depth of cut will start to increase, and disturbingly quickly at that. I think a suitable spring between the infeed table adjustment handle and the edge of the table itself may provide sufficient damping to ensure the handle does not screw itself out. I have yet to try it though and may simply resort to clamping on a small pair of vice grips onto the adjustment shaft beneath the table in the meantime.

All in all, you do get a lot for the money, there is no doubt about that and like any machine, a little fettling will make it so much better.


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## sparkus88 (20 Mar 2011)

Hi I am interested in the MB9020 but have a question. Other than here I can't find any substantial reviews on it but from what I understand its fairly similar to the woodstar one. Which I found a review for that said there was an issue with not being able to the blades at the right height on the planer because it meant the thicknesser wouldn't remove enough wood to remove marks left by the infeed roller. Is this the same for the Aminster? This is the review I was refering to http://idostuff.co.uk/sections/DIY/Woodstar Planer Thicknesser Review.html.

Mark


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## MichaelM (20 Mar 2011)

I too saw that review and asked some similar questions here before I bought mine but I can honestly say that apart from some snipe which can be minimised with care, the finish I get from my planer is most satisfactory. I have not altered the blades from the setting they were in upon delivery and there are no roller marks to be seen.


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## sparkus88 (20 Mar 2011)

Ok thanks.


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## Pond (21 Mar 2011)

I have had my MB9020 for a while now and would like to add a couple of things which I found:

I set it all up and used it for a while, everything fine. Then started getting quite a bit of snipe, whatever I did. I have been reliably informed this is an outfeed table mal-adjustment, but the MB9020 has no outfeed table adjustment!

So I took the whole thing apart, put a heavy straight edge on both tables and put it all back together again, tightening all nuts and screws lots. I took the blades out, re-aligned them both twice with the setting tool and it is now brilliant!!

Great little machine especially for the money!


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## morrissey007 (2 Jul 2011)

Well folks, seeing as I'm just about to buy a P/T and am really agonising over which to buy, this thread is appropriate! So now its one year on from when a number of you purchased the MB9020...any regrets? Any "I wish I'd bought the XXXX brand instead" or I wished I spent more and got the xxxx machine etc etc???
I'd really appreciate your thoughts and findings?

Thank you!


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## CharlieLamb (6 Jul 2011)

Just read this info on the axminster planer....i was just wondering Chems or anyone who's used it, hows it coping now? A year on...any problems? As im thinking of getting one soon  
Cheers,
Charlie


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## yosithi (7 Jul 2011)

Hi all, just been looking at the knife settings on my MB9020 (more out of interest than any due to any problem) and found it difficult to turn the knife block by hand to view the second knife. What happens is that when I try to rotate the block it just springs back to the staring position. Is this supposed to happen? If so how do I get access to the other knife? Any help/advice much appreciated.
Cheers,
Andy


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## Pond (7 Jul 2011)

yosithi":1rsen7aw said:


> Hi all, just been looking at the knife settings on my MB9020 (more out of interest than any due to any problem) and found it difficult to turn the knife block by hand to view the second knife. What happens is that when I try to rotate the block it just springs back to the staring position. Is this supposed to happen? If so how do I get access to the other knife? Any help/advice much appreciated.
> Cheers,
> Andy



I can turn mine by hand from above quite easily! :? 

If you take the large grey side guard off (4 nuts and two screws) you have access to the drive chain and pulleys. You can turn the large toothed cog easily, this will move everything including the knife block! It might be an idea to lube the chain while the guard is off!!


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## yosithi (8 Jul 2011)

Thanks for the update - I'll give it a blast this weekend.


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## yosithi (11 Jul 2011)

After removing the casing, a little gentle persuasion sorted it - many thanks for the advice.


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## sparkus88 (19 Jul 2011)

Hi I have just bought this planer and I wasm'y sure if the blades are set ready to go out of the box so I used the setting tool to set them. After doing that I turn it on and the cutting block got stuck. Firstly can someone confirm when setting the blade using the tool should the blade be position where the red line or the black line is in the photo? I set it with the blade where the red line is. But it seems more of the blade sticks up on the side next the fence than the other which might be the problem. I have reset the blades a few times and the same thing happens. Any advice.


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## fraser (13 Nov 2011)

Hi there,
I was thinking about getting this along with the Axminster RDC100H Vacuum Extractor and wondered if anyone could advise me on how much of the dust would escape the extractor and go flying out from the planer or thicknesser when in use. How effective is this combo, or similar extractor with the planer?
Any help appreciated
Thanks


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## lmhart (15 Apr 2015)

sparkus88":wgo9bmt3 said:


> Hi I have just bought this planer and I wasm'y sure if the blades are set ready to go out of the box so I used the setting tool to set them. After doing that I turn it on and the cutting block got stuck. Firstly can someone confirm when setting the blade using the tool should the blade be position where the red line or the black line is in the photo? I set it with the blade where the red line is. But it seems more of the blade sticks up on the side next the fence than the other which might be the problem. I have reset the blades a few times and the same thing happens. Any advice.



G'day,

I had the same issue with the setting tool myself this evening. The instructions say that the tip of the setting tool should be on the edge of the blade, which is an almost impossible thing to do reliably or consistently. The result each time was the same as you, higher blade height on the fence side.

The instructions were also not clear to me as to the position of the infeed table - e.g. should it be at 0 when setting the blade height using this tool or otherwise. I tried all sorts of combinations and when I finally got the blades level across the block, they turned out to be too low and didn't cut to the same height as the outfeed table.

I gave up for the night as it was getting too late to make noise testing each time I adjusted. I will try again tomorrow after work and use a heavy square to set the level of the blade to that of the outfeed table across the length of the blade.

Cheers

Leigh


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## blackrodd (15 Apr 2015)

The post, above that you replied to is nearly 4 years old.
If you are having problems with you're MB9020 planer blade setting, I suggest you start a new post.
It's more than likely someone will be able to help
Regards Rodders


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## SammyQ (16 Apr 2015)

ImHart, where are you in Belfast? There are a few of us dotted about and one may be able to drop in and help you.

Sam, BT4.


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