# A bodgers workbench



## ArtieFufkin (12 Sep 2018)

Hi, just joined the forum as im about to start building a workbench for the garage (without a workbench to build it on). Once complete i want to teach myself how to dove tail properly and go from there.

Ive got a load of 2x4 for the frame and some nice PAR Redwood 3x2 for the top which will be laminated. Bench will be approx. 1700mm long 620mm deep and 950mm high. With a woodwork vice on the left.

I need some advice please...I dont have any sash clamps to glue the top with and i wonder if i use a pair of board at the ends and middle to sandwich the laminations keeping it all level if i could use ratchet straps across the width to hold it all while the glue sets? (would make sure straps dont contact the top and bottom face of the work top).

Does this sound workable? Id rather not spend £100+ on 8 or so 900mm clamps at this stage, although if push comes to shove I'll have to.

Cheers for any pointers.


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## Phil Pascoe (12 Sep 2018)

Welcome. You could probably find someone reasonably close to you who'd let you use the clamps for a day, but failing that you could always screw and glue the 3 x 2s together one by one - so long as you know where the screws are if you need to bore dog holes or anything. You'll never plane the top down to the centre line.


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## MikeG. (12 Sep 2018)

You'll be fine with some medium-duty ratchet straps, but I'd want 5 along that length. Four at the very least. You also have to think very carefully about how you arrange the straps, and how you protect the edges of the timber. The straps will crush the edges easily.

However, you really should have some sash clamps. They're infinitely useful. Get them on Ebay, second hand.


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## novocaine (12 Sep 2018)

Make a couple of wedge clamps (reckon you'll get away with 5 and when your done you can make them in to something else). they don't need to be as posh as these (not mine), but you get the idea. 







Glue the top in 3 steps, front half, back half then middle, will help with squish out and you can get away with less pressure as your gluing up fewer joints at once. 

my bench is made of similar materials. I made the top first and set it on trestles to act as a bench while I made the rest, you'll quickly learn that perfectly flat isn't needed for most of it so as long as you get somewhere near you'll be right for making up the legs. I did have a suitable number of F clamps to make mine though (cheap rolson ones no less)

my bench, because I like to post the picture. 



The bench by David Rees, on Flickr


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## thetyreman (12 Sep 2018)

you'll probably need the clamps in the end anyway for other projects, I got some cheap ones on ebay like you was reluctant to pay it, they work ok though and have been used a lot, I don't regret it.


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## Fitzroy (12 Sep 2018)

I’ve done something like this before when I’ve not had a clamp long enough. You could bodge up a clamp quite easily. However as many have said you’ll never have enough clamps once you start making stuff so you may as well start building your collection now. 






F.


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## ArtieFufkin (12 Sep 2018)

Hi, thanks very much for the useful replies.
The general message here is to stop being tight and buy some clamps.  

I already have a bunch of f-clamps i can use for the keeping it level. 

And i plan to do the gue up in 3 or perhaps 4 stages. I'd thought about screws but not keen on the idea tbh.

Whats the general view of the silverline 900mm sash clamps on ebay and toolstation?
Are the man enough for the job? Perhaps 5 of those and a couple of straps (with plywood to stop the sides crushing) would do the job.


To add, I'll be sure to post some pics as I work through all this.


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## MikeG. (12 Sep 2018)

If you've properly prepared the timber (ie got the gluing faces flat and parallel) then you don't need an almighty amount of pressure when you glue it up. You wouldn't need 5 sash clamps and ratchet straps as well. They would each do the job on their own.


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## ArtieFufkin (12 Sep 2018)

MikeG.":119st0uv said:


> If you've properly prepared the timber.



That's the important bit. I guess if it can close the joints up with hand pressure that will be good enough to indicate a good fit
Im a novice and building the bench to learn and improve my limited skills which includes planing wood. I do the best i can and try not to worry. Thanks.


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## ScaredyCat (12 Sep 2018)

When I did mine I only had a few clamps 4 f clamps, and 4 quick grips - I joined the quick clamps by making them pull against each other. I built 2 sections first, then joined the two sections together. The top is heavy enough to help in this process, I just let the glue try for a minute or two so that the top section didn't slide about all over the place. I also did this in the living room when the wife was out visiting her mother.


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## MikeG. (12 Sep 2018)

I am sure that there are experienced members in Oxfordshire who would give you a helping hand if you wanted. Flattening boards is easy with practise, but can be a struggle for a novice (particularly if the wood isn't great and the plane not very well set up). If I were you, I would make myself a couple of pairs of saw horses, one at sawing height, and one at bench height. The bench-height ones could then have a couple of scaffold boards screwed to the top, and be a perfectly adequate temporary bench on which to do the planing for your board preparation.


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## Tasky (12 Sep 2018)

ArtieFufkin":3pypyf8b said:


> I guess if it can close the joints up with hand pressure that will be good enough to indicate a good fit


Depends on the gap. 
I made this mistake when making my bench. Not sure where I heard it, but I heard this exact same thing being said fairly often... I'd perhaps say finger & thumb pressure, but no more than that. Take the time to plane things properly and use it to learn how to make things fit better. 

The mistake has resulted in my bench being assembled all nice, but later on the top actually split along those 'good enough' joints and I now have a bench with a gap big enough to drop a marker pen down!!


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## ArtieFufkin (12 Sep 2018)

Its reasuring to see good results with just a few f clamps.

I spent a long time at the timber merchant picking out the straightest wood so I'm off to a good start (it is surprisingly straight already) 
They are 2.4m long at the moment so will be able to select the straightest section from each peice which will help further.
I will do the best i can with my plane and aim for a finger pressure only fit. 
If it goes bad in the future I'll just have to make another when ive improved my skills.


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## Phil Pascoe (12 Sep 2018)

Chances are you'll make another anyway - the first rarely works the way you think it will.


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## custard (12 Sep 2018)

If you're going to use ratchet straps make sure you alternate the ratchet mechanism on alternate sides. The strap itself will not be evenly tensioned, and the ratchet strap will exert a lot more pressure on the side with the ratcheting/tightening mechanism. If you don't alternate the straps you'll have the top curling up towards the side with all the ratchets.


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## ArtieFufkin (12 Sep 2018)

custard":p1w9pyz5 said:


> If you're going to use ratchet straps make sure you alternate the ratchet mechanism on alternate sides. The strap itself will not be evenly tensioned, and the ratchet strap will exert a lot more pressure on the side with the ratcheting/tightening mechanism. If you don't alternate the straps you'll have the top curling up towards the side with all the ratchets.



Thanks for the tip.


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## ArtieFufkin (12 Sep 2018)

I blame Paul Sellers, i was going to use 1 inch ply for a top before I found his, make it look easy, youtube guides.


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## Tasky (12 Sep 2018)

ArtieFufkin":2gtb96tj said:


> I blame Paul Sellers, i was going to use 1 inch ply for a top before I found his, make it look easy, youtube guides.


It is easy - You just have to pay attention to the details, take your time, measure accurately, be patient and double-check everything. If you don't rush things and make mistakes, the only hard part is the physical labour. 
I would add that it helps if you spend some time learning about setting up, sharpening and using the tools, as you have to remember that his kit is all finely tuned after 50 years of woodworking...

One thought I had, if it hasn't been mentioned - You can get sets of spacers for ratchet straps that go on the corners of wood, like you see in framing ratchets. Thought they might be helpful:


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## Ttrees (12 Sep 2018)

Silverline 600mm f clamps are about the cheapest I've seen, as pictured in ScaredyCat's post.
Handy enough yolks


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## Phil Pascoe (12 Sep 2018)

Don't forget that if you're buying cramps that pulling something up tight and holding something up tight are different - you can often use a good strong cramp to pull something up tight then replace the cramp with a lighter weight one and use the stronger one again somewhere else. All your cramps don't need to be the strongest.


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## ArtieFufkin (12 Sep 2018)

I've inspected my plane this evening a No4 Stanley smoothing plane. It's all in good order except there's a very small nick in the middle of the blade which on a bit of scrap left a fine mark, pipper! I'll need to sort this out before I attempt to joint the timber with it. First time for everything i guess....(goes off to watch plane sharpening youtube videos...)


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## MikeG. (12 Sep 2018)

A number 4 is all you need. Get that sharp and well tuned, and it'll give you a lifetime of great planing. Just make sure it never gets another nick in the blade!! If it's a bad nick, you may need to grind it out on a wheel before starting the sharpening process.


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## ArtieFufkin (12 Sep 2018)

Thanks. I have no means to do that unfortunately, ill try to photo it tomorrow, maybe someone can tell me if its recoverable without grinding.


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## Bodgers (13 Sep 2018)

ArtieFufkin":3hmob5xc said:


> Thanks. I have no means to do that unfortunately, ill try to photo it tomorrow, maybe someone can tell me if its recoverable without grinding.


It depends on how deep it is.

If you are using paper abrasives on a glass/flat surface for sharpening, with a low grit and enough patience you should be able to work through it.



Sent from my Redmi Note 5 using Tapatalk


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## MikeG. (13 Sep 2018)

Bodgers":15qvtoao said:


> .........If you are using paper abrasives on a glass/flat surface for sharpening, with a low grit and enough patience you should be able to work through it........



Like this, AF:







I ground a bit, but did most of the work on sandpaper on an offcut of granite worktop. I used 100 grit, then 120, and the cheap Chinese honing guide cost about a fiver on Ebay. Probably 10 minutes of work.


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## ArtieFufkin (13 Sep 2018)

I'll be able to do this, first time for everything. 

(Just to say I am fairly handy and have made things in the past, just not at this scale and never had the need to plane like this before)


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## ArtieFufkin (15 Sep 2018)

Ive bought 4 metal sash clamps, only 1 was in stock, collect the remaining 3 early next week.
I had a quick go and bringing the timber together this afternoon, i already own 2 cheap but adequately long F clamps, which Id fogotten about. The 3 of them together with not much force closed the gaps quite easily. 
With some planing (once its sharpened) and some boards top and bottom to keep them level I reckon the glue up will go ok if it do it in 2 or 3 stages.

Picture is 2.4m long. Will be cut down to approx 1.75m


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## thetyreman (15 Sep 2018)

remember you can make cauls which distributes the pressure more evenly, it definitely works if you don't have enough clamps, I've found it's very effective, always have a hammer on hand to beat slipping wood back into place and keep it flat.


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## ArtieFufkin (15 Sep 2018)

cauls, yes I'll be using them, thanks. (That's what i meant whe i said boards top and bottom, i just couldn't think of the correct name) I'll wrap them in brown tape to stop them sticking.


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## ArtieFufkin (16 Sep 2018)

This afternoon I cut the top peices close to their final lenght (by hand) and set about planning with my freshly sharpened old No4 stanley (easy enough to sharpen). 
I did the best I could, didn't need to remove that much. (The larger shavings you can see were from me practicing on some scrap).

I think with clamps and cauls it will come together ok, followed by some more planing and sanding.
This is with them just pushed up next to each other.

View attachment 20180916


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## will1983 (17 Sep 2018)

A little tip I came across was to knock a couple of panel pins into the gluing face and then nip the heads off to leave about 5mm sticking out. Then when you tighten your boards together the nipped ends will stick into the adjoining board and preventing it slipping about.

You have got to get the boards lined up right first but you could always do this without glue first and then the nipped ends will drop into their little holes making glue up a lot less stressful.


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## ArtieFufkin (21 Sep 2018)

No time recently but hoping to make progress this weekend.
During the week a cleaned up and painted Record vice turned up. Will be using big bolts from the top of the bench to secure it.


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## nabs (21 Sep 2018)

record 52 1/2 the best woodworking vice in the world. nice one


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## memzey (21 Sep 2018)

I don’t know (and I don’t want to start an internet war or anything) but I think the record 53 might have something to say about that


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## nabs (22 Sep 2018)

heresy!


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## memzey (22 Sep 2018)

Perhaps (I’ve been called worse things than a heretic ) but I’d say that, for me at least, the 53 is better than the 52 1/2 for the same reason the 52 1/2 is better than the 52 in that you can still hold smaller stuff in a bigger vice but not bigger stuff in a smaller vice (I have all three btw and like them all). 

What is really interesting about the vice pictured above is that it appears to be a fairly late model with a square boss, no RD number or webs at the back of the fixed jaw but unless my eyes are deceiving me, it appears to have a dust guard over the thread, which I thought only appeared on the earliest models. Could this be a Frankenvice of some sort?


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## nabs (22 Sep 2018)

so far as I know, the so called 'screw and nut cover' was standard issue on all the QR vices made after the range was relaunched in the 60s but only available as an option before then.


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## ArtieFufkin (22 Sep 2018)

Sticking the first half together. I remebered to tape the underside of the cauls the second before i started pouring the glue. Phew!

Other half is out so working in the kitchen


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## ArtieFufkin (22 Sep 2018)

nabs":1mscqnkz said:


> so far as I know, the so called 'screw and nut cover' was standard issue on all the QR vices made after the range was relaunched in the 60s but only available as an option before then.



That's my understanding, I have seen screw covers on other QR 52.5 E vices. Seems like a very sensible addition to me which is why I went for it. I paid £65 for the vice inc delivery. Considering it's in good condition I don't feel hard done by. Looking forward to getting it installed, will be a good while before that happens though. I have noticed a bolt is missing on the based of QR mechanism, will have to find a suitable replacement.


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## memzey (22 Sep 2018)

nabs":2a18gq4e said:


> so far as I know, the so called 'screw and nut cover' was standard issue on all the QR vices made after the range was relaunched in the 60s but only available as an option before then.


That’s interesting. I have 4 Record QR vices in front of me. 2 definitely in the post 60’s era, the other 2 60’s or earlier. None of them have the cover. I always thought the cover was mainly available in the earliest variants but I could be wrong. There was a thread on record vices in the hand tools section but it was all a bit bewildering to be honest!


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## nabs (22 Sep 2018)

my mistake, looking again at the 1963 catalogue it is only the standard QR vice that has the cover. The 'D' model (the one with the dog in the front jaw) does not. I have never really looked into what happened to the design after the merger with Ridgeway and subsequent acquisition by Irwin but I suspect the cover was probably dropped in the late 70s/early 80s. Can you even get a modern copy with the screw and nut cover?


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## ArtieFufkin (23 Sep 2018)

All done. Left it clamped up over night, it's as flat and level as I could have hoped for, the cauls did a good job. Will begin planing and sanding once it stops raining. 

Thank you for the advice with this so far.


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## ArtieFufkin (30 Dec 2018)

It's been a while...

The project got delayed, however it's now finished and functioning as a work bench. 
The vice isn't close enough to the edge, but other than that I'm happy with it. *Way *more solid than I'll need for what is light DIY work. Thank you for all the help a couple of months ago.

here are a few pictures.





















Decided to fit a plywood top, (18mm) can be easily swapped when it gets worn out, secured in place with 4 t nuts and bolts.


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## Stanleymonkey (30 Dec 2018)

Very nice!

Those pictures look like they have come straight from the pages of a diy magazine!


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## Mike Jordan (30 Dec 2018)

As stated you will need clamps at some stage so it's not money wasted, if all else fails think like a woodworker! Mortise and tenon joints are easy to draw bore together, no clamps or straps required.


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## bourbon (30 Dec 2018)

very nice looking bench there. You must really must put some rubbish on it so It looks like my bench!


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## Jacob (30 Dec 2018)

Fitzroy":2s5y0moy said:


> .......
> 
> 
> 
> ....


Could do Fitzroy's thing here but double it up so there's a top and bottom hole board with the pin going through both (bits of broom handle). Keeps it all straighter and allows more cramping pressure. Probably easier to glue just 2 or 3 at a time and you stay more in control. Cover the glue lines or the clamp with parcel tape or something so you don't glue the clamp or wedges to the workpiece. Use plenty of glue spread ALL OVER BOTH meeting faces.


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