# Matki shower screen magnetic seal closure



## RogerS (22 Feb 2014)

SWMBO chose this shower screen which I've just got round to fitting. 







It relies on a magnetic seal contained in two plastic strips that orient the magnetic seal at 45 degrees giving a small amount of overlap and keeping the door closed.

Only it doesn't. Simply not enough strength in the magnetic strip.

Other than use a bungee to keep the bloody door shut when showering has anyone got any bright ideas. I am tempted to go and get the sledgehammer.

I've had it with bathrooms. If it could go wrong, it did go wrong.


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## AndyT (22 Feb 2014)

You can buy a strip of self adhesive magnet strip, 12mm wide. I bought some to hold plastic secondary glazing in place. Could you add one or two extra strips of this alongside what you have? (I don't really understand the configuration of your screen closure, so this may make no sense.)


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## chippy1970 (22 Feb 2014)

I've fitted loads of matki screens and I've always thought they were very good. Has it been fitted dead level ? that may cause it not to shut properly 

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## RogerS (22 Feb 2014)

Yup, it's all square and level. I've attached a couple of photos.















A supplementary question. The panel is a very sloppy fit in the Threshold. Wondering if I am missing some bits. Their instructions show a bolt yet there is no hole in the Inline Panel for it.


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## chippy1970 (22 Feb 2014)

Looks like a different model to the ones I've fitted

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## RogerS (22 Feb 2014)

chippy1970":of2oq5hh said:


> Looks like a different model to the ones I've fitted
> 
> Sent from my Hudl HT7S3 using Tapatalk



That's a pity but thanks all the same.

Andy...as you can see, there isn't the room for your suggestion. 

I hate doing up bathrooms :evil:


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## ColeyS1 (22 Feb 2014)

Do the doors close to create an L shape - kinda like a door on the front and one on the side ?

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## RogerS (22 Feb 2014)

ColeyS1":3i8n6hs3 said:


> Do the doors close to create an L shape - kinda like a door on the front and one on the side ?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk




No...there is no overlap of the doors. They are co-planar.


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## ColeyS1 (22 Feb 2014)

Is there any way to slide the magnets out or is it all sealed ? How thicks the glass ? Looks like a nice screen so longs you don't turn the water on :roll:
Edit - is it like this 




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## RogerS (22 Feb 2014)

ColeyS1":20bevp7c said:


> Is there any way to slide the magnets out or is it all sealed ? How thicks the glass ? Looks like a nice screen so longs you don't turn the water on :roll:
> Edit - is it like this
> 
> 
> ...




Spot on. Magnets sealed inside.


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## ColeyS1 (22 Feb 2014)

They sell the exact same seal on ebay - might be worth asking how strong the magnets are. 'Shower door seal magnets' what if you done away with the magnets altogether and just had seals with a pokey out bit (kind of forming a rebate) like the bottom right one in the picture. 






Coley 

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## Water-Mark (22 Feb 2014)

The magnets only work if they have good contact, ie more than 80% along it's length.
Some times you have to slide them off the glass a little to get a good fit.
It's worth checking the other seals too, especially the one on the rear of the door as this can sometimes create a little excess pressure stopping the door seals working.

They're never very strong but they can be a little fiddly at times.


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## RogerS (23 Feb 2014)

Both good points about the seal and door closure. I removed the seals and re-adjusted the door and it was slightly out. Without the seals it now is perfectly aligned with the fixed panel. Looking at the seal again, I reckon that they are duff...full of kinks...which doesn't make for a very good seal. Certainly misses out on the 80%. Fitting the two seals together by themselves, they all snick together nicely. It's when the seal is put on the door that it gets distorted but fiddling about especially around that very clear kinked area proved unsuccessful. I will give Matki a call on Monday but TBH I think that the design is fundamentally flawed if it is that particular in the way that it is fitted.

Good point re the other seal but it wasn't fitted at the time. It is now but hasn't made the problem any worse.

One of the posts above gave me an :idea: and that is to see if I can finagle a couple of the smaller rare earth magnets into the seal. Now they are strong! Or maybe even epoxy them on the outside face of the two seals. They are stainless I think...certainly they don't look as if they will corrode.


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## Lons (23 Feb 2014)

Roger

It's already been said but though I haven't fitted this particular model, I have fitted loads of showers.

I normally fit both seals then close the door and there are always gaps so it's just a case of pulling/ pushing the seals until they contact each other % of the door and frame. Once done they stay in position. I did once need to use a hairdryer to soften the seal but never had a problem with any. You probably have faulty seals so just tell them to send you a new set.
Bob


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## RogerS (23 Feb 2014)

Thanks Bob...that's also my take. I like the hairdryer idea.

While we're on the subject of shower screens, why do the instructions say to silicone on the room side of the shower screen? I would have thought it would look neater hidden away and done inside the shower cubicle.


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## Lons (23 Feb 2014)

RogerS":3mh2kcoy said:


> Thanks Bob...that's also my take. I like the hairdryer idea.
> 
> While we're on the subject of shower screens, why do the instructions say to silicone on the room side of the shower screen? I would have thought it would look neater hidden away and done inside the shower cubicle.



If there's any ingress of water into or behind the frames it has nowhere to go, remains trapped and causes mould. Doesn't matter how well you seal it will find a way in somewhere.

Personally, I hate silicone inside a shower though I know it's essential as no matter what you buy it eventually becomes impossible to clean and need to be replaced. Even the so called non moulding stuff has a limited life span.

Bob


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## Harbo (23 Feb 2014)

Cannot help with the fitting but the silicon on the outside is to allow any water to drain away inside ie not to allow any water to be trapped?
Well that's what my plumber said?

Rod


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## kostello (23 Feb 2014)

I had something similar on a recent job...... Called the manufacturer ( not matki) and they sent new seals which worked a treat........


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## Water-Mark (23 Feb 2014)

As stated you seal the outside because any alloy chanels are designed to have water flush through them everytime you shower. This means less lying water to go stagnent and also the damp side of the silicone that will discolour first is hidden underneath.
This is less important with a design like yours though.

With most enclosures there shouldn't be any sealant inside, though glass panels are often sealed from both.

I'd get a spare set of seals anyway as the originals will discolour eventuall anyway and they can be expensive.


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## billybuntus (23 Feb 2014)

Could you bond a few thin rare earth magnets to the strip to assist it in closing tight?


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## MMUK (23 Feb 2014)

RogerS":1tgtblso said:


> ColeyS1":1tgtblso said:
> 
> 
> > Is there any way to slide the magnets out or is it all sealed ? How thicks the glass ? Looks like a nice screen so longs you don't turn the water on :roll:
> ...




Sorry but that looks like a really dung system :roll:


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## Doug B (24 Feb 2014)

kostello":1uyrq4hn said:


> I had something similar on a recent job...... Called the manufacturer ( not matki) and they sent new seals which worked a treat........



Had this on a few makes over the years, get a new set & they work really well, probably just a duff set of magnets Rog.


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## jasonB (24 Feb 2014)

Roger, I've also fitted several showers with the same type of magnetic seal. From the type of gap you show I would say the strip has been distorted in the box and now won't spring back. Have you had this screen standing around for a long time like the bath as if it were under pressure in the box for a long time it will take on a "set"

Try a bit of warm air on it (away from teh glass) if it does not reform then get a new strip, Matki are good if its under warrante.

As Chippie says you also need to get teh doors spot on as the magnets are just strong enough to hold the two parts together, they won't pull the joint up if the doors are out of line

J

PS Thanks for teh link.


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## RogerS (24 Feb 2014)

Thanks all for the suggestions. Matki are sending me a set of new seals. Fingers crossed.


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## RogerS (26 Feb 2014)

I admit defeat. I have received the new set of seals. Matki have modified the design. They are even worse.

I give up.


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## ColeyS1 (26 Feb 2014)

I thought of you earlier today when I spotted some of those glass clamps for lifting- stick one on the left door.........  least you got a spare set to try and canabalise now.

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## gregmcateer (27 Feb 2014)

RogerS":q5422yh9 said:


> Thanks Bob...that's also my take. I like the hairdryer idea.
> 
> While we're on the subject of shower screens, why do the instructions say to silicone on the room side of the shower screen? I would have thought it would look neater hidden away and done inside the shower cubicle.



Roger,

I had a similar situation and I removed the seal on the 'back' edge of the door - ie beyond the swivel hinge - that was enough to take the resistance off to let the magnets grip - not sure if your setup would allow this.

Re the silicone - Mine had same instructions, which I THINK, (but not sure), is to allo any water that runs down the door to run back into the shower rather than into any crevice below the door. (Remember, water is a sneaky little [email protected]@@@d).

I did actually seal on the inside, as I wasn't satisfied with the outside technique and it has been fine here. 

Sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs, but to achieve a really neat silicon joint, without the little 'feather' edge, I carefully and laboriously put masking tape down each side of the joint, then apply the silicon and smooth it, (wet finger or tool), ensuring it is not too thick. Then immediately (ie before it has skinned), remove the masking tape and leave it well alone until it has cured. I have found this stops the feathers I described, which flake and attract that nasty black mildew.

HTH

Greg


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## RogerS (27 Feb 2014)

Hi Greg

Thanks for the suggestions. The seal that you refer to is already off and has made no difference. I am simply resigned to leaving an old towel on the floor by the door. To that end, applying silicone is also pretty pointless as the towel will already be there !

I did pick up that tip re masking tape from a YouTube video but it is worth reminding folk of the technique as you do get a far superior result. I also learned the hard way to not use Duck tape because it tears far too easily. Also to try and use a contrasting tape colour to that of the tiles.


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## ColeyS1 (27 Feb 2014)

I thought it was the moisture from .... the 'wetted finger' that often caused the silicone to go mouldy prematurely :?

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## Water-Mark (27 Feb 2014)

It won't help if you lick it thats for sure.

You should be able to "push" the gaps in the seals closed by sliding the seal on the glass.
I have a couple of old wall chanels for doing this as it is very comon, more than 3/4's of the enclosures see in fact.

Almost all enclosures use this system these days and i've never come across one that won't seal along the magnets.

If silicone is applied properly it doesn't need masking tape for neat edges.


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## RogerS (28 Feb 2014)

Water-Mark":2d9om9a0 said:


> .....
> If silicone is applied properly it doesn't need masking tape for neat edges.



So how do you do yours? Do you just run the nozzle down and that's it ?


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## chippy1970 (28 Feb 2014)

Roger, this is how the proper silicone guys do it , it's very simple.

Prepare a spray bottle of washing up liquid and water. Then run a bead of silicone along all of your joints. Straight away spray everything with the soapy water then either run your finger or a special tool down all joints. The excess silicone will come off in a neat ball in your hand and you can throw it away. This leaves you with perfect joints every time. Don't use masking tape it leaves a tiny edge which catches dirt over time.

The special tool can just be a shaped dowel soaked in water that's all the silicone guys use. They have several shapes and sizes they carry round in a tub of water.

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## RogerS (28 Feb 2014)

Mmmm...not convinced. That is the way that I used to do it. End result? A thin smear of silicone extruding out in every direction that just attracted dirt and mould and ended up looking awful. I';m trying the masking tape method. Time will tell !


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## chippy1970 (28 Feb 2014)

RogerS":3bxf682q said:


> Mmmm...not convinced. That is the way that I used to do it. End result? A thin smear of silicone extruding out in every direction that just attracted dirt and mould and ended up looking awful.



Lol

All I can say Roger is that I work on high end jobs in and around London. The kitchens in the house we're building in Knightsbridge alone cost £1.4 million God only knows how much all the bathrooms cost.Do you really think they would smear silicone everywhere and make them look "awful" lol.

Take it or leave it that's exactly how professional mastic men do the job.

Only trying to help.

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## RogerS (28 Feb 2014)

LOL...Maybe they have dainty fingers :lol: You know what those pussies down the South East are like. All cappucino and smoothies :wink:


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## Water-Mark (28 Feb 2014)

It's pretty much as chippy said except I use a diluted solution of bleach and tools cut from tile adhesive lids.
That way I can shape the tools to suit the job, if the tool is the right shape it will leave a uniform edge and remove any excess silicone in one pass.

I reseal hundreds of showers/baths every year, barely a day goes by with out some silicone action.


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## RogerS (28 Feb 2014)

I can see where you are coming from but there is one thing I don't understand. As you slide your tool over the silicone, excess silicone is going to build up and be pushed out away from your silicone line. Surely that excess is going to end up leaving a trail ?

We need a YouTube video !


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## chippy1970 (28 Feb 2014)

RogerS":2ynyqf1j said:


> I can see where you are coming from but there is one thing I don't understand. As you slide your tool over the silicone, excess silicone is going to build up and be pushed out away from your silicone line. Surely that excess is going to end up leaving a trail ?
> 
> We need a YouTube video !



No Roger that's the whole point of spraying soapy water everywhere. The excess won't stick and it rolls up in your hand and leaves a perfect job  

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## ColeyS1 (28 Feb 2014)

I quite often think I need 1 or 10 tubes of spare silicone to practice with :roll: I guess holding metal against one of the sides is not as strong ?

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