# DX from WE



## Steve Maskery (3 Oct 2010)

Afternoon guys & gals
I've been filming this week, trying to keep my workshop clean.
Enjoy
S


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## Chems (4 Oct 2010)

Love the router modification. At first it flew past, but then you could see it going in an even better the rebate/dado then acted like a bit of ducting and sucked in the initial overspray!

Can you talk through the method used to make such a big hole in your plate?


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## Harbo (4 Oct 2010)

Steve you seem to have a "front door" but I cannot make out if the underside of your table is enclosed?

I made one based loosely on Norm's design with the router enclosed in a cabinet. With a double connector and a flap gate I can control the suck from the fence area and/or through the cutter area - it works well.

Rod


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## Steve Maskery (4 Oct 2010)

Chems
First I tried to dril a 30mm hole with a hole saw. Fortunately I tried it in a piece of scrap. I'm glad I did as it was a disaster. Rough as a rough thing that's been roughened. But this method worked:

Drill a suitable hole in a block of wood

Drill 3 holes in your plate, two for screws and one big enough for the bearing on the roundover cutter.

SCrew the block to the plate and use the bearing to flush the ally hole to the wooden block.

The sawdust did rush past to start with. That's becuse it is not channelled so well and I had my DX turned down low. The one problem with this is if the DX is on max, it becomes very hard to push the workpiece over the table!

Harbo
My table is a Norm, too, but I've never found that the DX from the enclosed cabinet to be very effective. Perhaps I just need a stronger DX, but it seems to me that the cabinet just acts like one of Mike G's baffle boxes. It's always full of dust.
If the angle looks strange it's because I filmed it with the table propped up like a car bonnet.


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## Tim Nott (4 Oct 2010)

Don't have a mitre saw but the router table thing is absolutely brilliant. I'm surprised no manufacturer has thought of it. Just done it on my home-made plywood table and it works an absolute treat. Thank you Steve.


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## Steve Maskery (4 Oct 2010)

We aim to please 

S


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## LuptonM (4 Oct 2010)

Might be a stupid question but how do u switch the router on and off? I've only seen routers that u have to physically hold the on button down


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## Steve Maskery (4 Oct 2010)

There are no stupid q's only stupid a's!

That router has a "proper" on/off switch. It's permanently On, and I operate it via an external NVR switch o the RH side of the table.

Cheers
Steve


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## Chems (4 Oct 2010)

Steve Maskery":3vqxr2q2 said:


> Chems
> First I tried to dril a 30mm hole with a hole saw. Fortunately I tried it in a piece of scrap. I'm glad I did as it was a disaster. Rough as a rough thing that's been roughened. But this method worked:
> 
> Drill a suitable hole in a block of wood
> ...



So you did it with the hole saw undersized? Or you used the bearing guided bit to cut out with material been removed from both sides of the cutter?


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## Steve Maskery (4 Oct 2010)

I didn't use a hole saw. I drilled a hole bigger than the bearing on my roundover (I think it was 5/8"), plunged the RO through that and ran it around the inside of the hole. Al is soft and easily worked with TCT cutters.

Cheers
Steve


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## Chems (4 Oct 2010)

Thanks steve. The only experience I have with routing ally was with a thick bit I got off of ebay. It broke my cutter an made a lot of noise. I'll defiantly do this mod myself.


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## Henning (5 Oct 2010)

Ingenious as always, Steve =D> 

One thing i'm wondering though, is how do you think this will affect the plate in the long term when it comes to sagging?


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## Steve Maskery (5 Oct 2010)

Chems":2wfsj3ei said:


> I'll defiantly do this mod myself.



No need to defy me, Chems, I'm positively encouraging you to do it.



Henning":2wfsj3ei said:


> One thing i'm wondering though, is how do you think this will affect the plate in the long term when it comes to sagging?



To be honest I'd not considered that. But it is aliminium, not phenolic, and the router isn't _that _heavy. I've not noticed any sag (but I might have to find my feeler gauges).

Cheers
Steve


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## Chems (5 Oct 2010)

definitely! I have a total brain block on that word!


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## Steve Maskery (5 Oct 2010)

Chems":3rgfvfzp said:


> definitely! I have a total brain block on that word!



We'd noticed! 

How's the uni course going?
S


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## Chems (5 Oct 2010)

Its hard, very hard. Wrote my first few programs thou. They are piling on the work, which is surprising, how they expect us to know anything, we've only been going for 2 weeks! An one week of that was do nothing fresher week! Take it back about the traffic, its awful just like every other place in the UK.


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## Steve Maskery (5 Oct 2010)

I went back to uni (the other one) in my forties to do an MBA. It was both fantastic and totally knackering, I've not worked so hard for anything in my life. But I wouldn't have missed it for the world. It's just a pity that I now appear to be unemployable. Apparently I am "over-qualified" and "have no experience".

Destitution looms. 

Are well, back to the film studio. I mean workshop.
S


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## Harbo (7 Oct 2010)

Hi Steve - just made your BS Circle Cutter Jig - the BWW article triggered me off  

Just have to change the blade from a re-sawing type to try it out.
I used some brass rod for the dowels.

One minor point (just in case people blindly follow the dimensions) - the overall length depends on your bandsaw - my 352 has a much smaller table than yours.

Rod


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## Steve Maskery (7 Oct 2010)

Excellent, Rod. pleased to hear it. Yes, dims are just a guide.

Actually you could make it that size for a small bandsaw, but just change the mounting block for an L-shaped piece, so that the swing point was way off to the right instead of being just off the edge of the table.

Cheers
Steve


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## Harbo (7 Oct 2010)

Steve wrote 



> change the mounting block for an L-shaped piece, so that the swing point was way off to the right instead of being just off the edge of the table.



Yes - that's a great idea then you can cut even bigger circles?

Rod


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## Steve Maskery (7 Oct 2010)

Quite. Just make sure you have good support if you are making a dining table for 10 on a benchtop Axi! 
S


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## motownmartin (9 Oct 2010)

Hi Steve

An excellent idea regarding the router table dust extraction, especially if you have an open (rather than enclosed) table, as you know I have visited your workshop and have seen your table which happens to be nearly the same as mine, with my table I ignored the design of the door and left out the relief holes and seled any other gaps, I also transfer the DX pipe from the fence to the router enclosure, this concetrates the DX to suck through the hole where the cutter protrudes from and I end up with the same results as you have managed with your mod.

Just to show the door on my router table






Steve, this not a critisism but another angle which folk can tackle the problem.

Keep up the excellent work.


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