# Removing a Drill Press Bearing?



## OPJ (29 Aug 2010)

Hi guys,

For a long time, I've suspected that the bearing just above the chuck in my Clarke pillar drill may be shot. It rattles a bit while it's running and it only started doing this about a year after I bought it (...I think I've had it for four-years, now! ).

It doesn't seem to affect the performance or accuracy, as far as I can tell but, it's annoying.

Trouble is, I'm not sure how to get the old one out:







The chuck can be removed easily enough, by hitting the other end of the shaft.






Do I need to remove the taper first or is there another way? I've heard that you can do this by making a pair of wooden drifts...

Secondly - does anyone have any recommendations for suppliers of bearings _and_ V-belts? My drill's belts are also looking a bit worn and I'm sure they've stretched, which is why I can no longer tension them at certain speeds.

I've used Simply Bearings in the past and I couldn't fault them. They don't appear to sell belts and I'm assuming it'd be cheaper (not to mention easier!) to buy both from one place. I'm also guessing there are many sources who'd be cheaper than going through Clarke or Machine Mart directly! :shock: 

Your help would be much appreciated.

Thanks for looking,

Olly.


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## Hitch (29 Aug 2010)

Not sure on the bearing removal, but for the new bits, try 'bearingboys'
online shop. 8)


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## big soft moose (29 Aug 2010)

on a clarke drill i have to wonder "is it worth it" - it might be better to save the money towards a fobco or such from ebay


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## beech1948 (29 Aug 2010)

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=4978276

The above url is to an Old Woodworking Machines Site and is about the refurbishment of a typical drill press with a quill, handles and return spring not unlike yours.

It may help and its fairly obvious what needs doing.

regards
Alan


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## Frank S (30 Aug 2010)

Hi Olly,
try Express Bearings in Shepton Mallet.They have helped me out on many occassions.If the goods are not in stock they can usually get them within 24 hours.Prices are reasonable too.
Frank.


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## tjwoodms (30 Aug 2010)

I would stick with simply bearings i have using them on a weekly basis for about a year now with not a single problem but your correct the dont do belts.

As for removing the bearing it looks to me like the shaft needs to come out through the top so take the pully off and you will probebly find a circlip above the top bearing remove that also and you should be able to use the rise and fall as a press.
I would replace both bearings if i were you whilst you have it apart.

When refitting the new bearings only tap the ID if fitting the the shaft and the OD when fitting the the bore this reduces the chances of brunneling the new bearing races.

Any problems give me a call and i will try to talk you through it or i could do it for you but the cost would likley be more than the drills worth.
Also I have a axminster drill that will be up for sale as soon as i get around to fitting a new capacitor i was thinking of around £75 its seen very little use.


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## RogerS (30 Aug 2010)

big soft moose":3gdxkzc6 said:


> on a clarke drill i have to wonder "is it worth it" - it might be better to save the money towards a fobco or such from ebay



Seconded. Clarke drills have slop built into them from Day One. Mine did. So did all the ones I looked at in the local MachineMart.

Axminster have got a good deal on drills at the moment and the table has a nice windy-up handle. Go on...treat yourself...you know you want to.


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## OPJ (30 Aug 2010)

Thanks for your replies. 

My long-term aim is to sell this one, actually, and replace with a model that will actually sit comfortably on a 900mm bench top - this one's too tall (unless you're 7'6"...) yet, it's too short to be classed as floor-standing! :roll: It currently sits on its own stand, which takes up space in the workshop. So, I am looking for a 12-speed bench top model (with rack and pinion table adjustment) that will sit alongside my mortiser (I've e-mailed Tim to find out more about his Axminster drill ;-) ).

Before I sell it, I do think it's worth try to 'renew' a few parts, as bearings and belts are very inexpensive and, it should help me to get the full asking price. I'd really like to have a keyless chuck as well but, the good ones seem to start at £45 - so, I'll leave that one up to the buyer! 

I've never had any trouble from this drill. It's certainly accurate enough for the woodworking that I've done the last four-years. Sure, it's a bit noisy, but I've drilled holes up to 50mm wide, others up to 75mm deep and they're always come out perfectly. None of this over-sized/oval-shaped business that you sometimes hear about...

I am regularly scanning eBay but, there doesn't seem to be much about (certainly not locally, anyway). The best I've found so far would be an old Nu-Tool (if it was good enough for Alan Peters, etc...  ;-)).

I'll try some of your suggestions later on.

Thanks.


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## RogerS (30 Aug 2010)

Olly..I really think that anyone buying a second-hand Clarke drill isn't exactly going to worry about a bit of slop. TBH I doubt that they'd even realise that it had slop. Sorry..that sounds a bit arrogant but you get my drift.

Still it's your time!! Personally..life is too short.


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## 9fingers (30 Aug 2010)

Olly, lookout for these makes

Fobco, Startrite, Meddings, Pollard, Boxford, Elliott etc

12 speed ones are a pita for belt changing. Excellent opportunity to buy a cheaper 3 phase machine and fit an inverter (I'll help you if you want)

Variable speed at the turn of a knob just can't be beaten!

bOB


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## OPJ (30 Aug 2010)

Thanks, Bob. 

I've been and stripped most of it apart this morning (and my hands are black to prove it! :twisted. It definitely seems as though at least one of the bearings above the chuck is causing the problem. Even after removing it, I can turn it by hand and it sounds as rough as heck! So, I'll be placing an order with Simply Bearings tomorrow for a couple of new ones, probably rubber-sealed as well.

I think I'll try that before buying any new belts.

In the mean-time, I'm having trouble finding someone who stocks these belts online... I'm reluctant to go to Machine Mart, as they'll probably want something ludicrous like £10 for each belt! 

On each belt, it reads:

"HUANYU M-24 0505 27"

The manual (as surprisingly helpful as it is!) lists them as "M42 x 610MM".

Looking at the Bearing Boys site, I'd assume they're Z-section belts, as they measure 10mm wide across the flat face (assuming that is the "top"). I forgot to measure the width or depth of the V.

Even then, they don't have 610mm lengths. Do you think I'd get away with 596mm?

EDIT - I've just noticed the Z*24* belt with an inside length of 610mm - that could be it! :roll:  :wink:


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## 9fingers (30 Aug 2010)

Using a 596 instead of a 610 is going to bring the centre of the shafts about 7mm closer. (half the difference in lengths
I doubt if your belt has stretched, more like it has worn on the vee faces. just a little wear makes it slip down the pulley Vee a bit more and hence it can't be tighten fully in some cases.

The best sort of belts are the cogged ones. They don't take on a 'set' as much when the drill is not in use and therefore don't vibrate as much.

If you want, I can get you a price for a belt and bearings. Just give me the bearing numbers.

Bob

EDIT: Just looked at bearing boys budget bearing prices - I can't compete with those to be honest.


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## OPJ (1 Sep 2010)

My new bearings arrived this morning although, it's a little too early to tell whether or not they've made the difference as I've managed to break something else...






](*,)

I don't know what the correct name for this 'assembly' is but, it's a spacer that sits between two bearings (which I haven't replaced, since they seem fine). This fits over the end of the 'spindle' running up through the quill. Then, a pulley sits over this and is secured in place.

Without the spacer though, I'm unable to lock the assembly at its correct height, meaning that this pulley is a good 5-10mm lower than the others, which obviously causes a few complaints from the V-belts (I haven't yet replaced those).

So, it is essential. I must have over-tightened the grub screw... :roll:

Machine Mart was £2.94 (plus £3.23 for postage). I've tried looking around but, I'm guessing I'm unlikely to find the same thing cheaper elsewhere... Diameter is 40mm, with a width of what looks to be just under 10mm (could be 3/8" though, I doubt it's critical). Only checking, just in case. 

Question for Bob... :wink:

My V-belts are 10mm wide x 6mm deep. But, the smallest cogged V-belts that Bearing Boys stock are only 13mm x 8mm - would I get away with those or should I stick with standard V-belts?


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## Jacob (1 Sep 2010)

From OPJ's snaps I'd say that that Clarke drill has pieces identical to my recently purchased "Nu tool", which in turn seems to come from the same stable as various offerings from Axminster and Rutlands.
I'm not complaining - £57.19 seems really good value, not bad even at new price of £200ish, but are they all from the same cheapo chinese factory?

PS this is a stop gap whilst I wait for Wadkin, Fobco etc etc


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## 9fingers (1 Sep 2010)

That spacer is essential as it is the method of preloading the bearings supporting the pulley. The thickness is the critical dimension.
If you can buy it as a spare part then that is the best route.
Be Gentle!!

The A section belt that bearing boys are offering will not fit. You need a M or Z section belt preferably cogged but not essential especially if you are doing it up to sell.

I can supply a cogged Z section 590 or 610mm long for £4.09 delivered. PM me if you want me to order one. Someone would have to be in for a signed for parcel from Parcel Force at the address you supply.

Bob


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## OPJ (2 Sep 2010)

Thanks again, Bob. 

I'll go with the standard Z-section belt for now, as I do intend to sell it once I've finished and, yes, I do have a replacement lined up! 8)

I'll also order a new spacer from Machine Mart - I hope others have learned and will learn from reading this thread... :roll: :wink:

I guess that grub screw only needs to be in contact with the face of the spacer, rather than nipped up tightly against it?

One other thing I can't figure out... The drill plunges fine, but 'sticks' a little as you get down to the last 5mm of the 80mm maximum plunge. This is not something it did when I first bought it; it only started a few months ago, when I was messing around with other things... The gears (if that's what they're called) look fine; no damage.

I can't work out why this is happening? Any ideas?


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## 9fingers (2 Sep 2010)

With the quill pinion removed, insert the quill into the main body and raise and lower the quill by hand and see if it sticks.
If it does then remove the key or screw that stops the quill rotating (if there is one) to see if this is causing the sticking.

If it is still sticking, remove the quill and clean oil, grease, crud from the bore of the head casting.
Clean the outside surface of the quill and inspect for any dings. Then coat the sliding surface with ink from a spirit based (sniff it!) felt tipped marker. allow to dry. Don't use waterbased ones!
Re-insert the quill and work it up and down through the stiff section without pushing it up all the way into the free zone.
Remove and inspect the ink which should be worn away on the highspots causing it to catch. Carefully rub these out with fine emery in the 240 -1000g range. remove all traces of abrasive particles, re-ink and try again.

If the quill was free to move without the pinion and yet is sticky with the pinion fitted, fit the pinion only and ensure that this rotates freely and then inspect each pinion tooth and the rack cut into the quill for any marks or debris stuck between the teeth.

Somewhere through this process you should have found the problem.

hth

Bob


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