# Spalted Beech hollow form plus other work



## mark sanger (15 Feb 2009)

Hi all

several of you have asked me to post some more picturse ofmy work. 

I notice on this forum that peole tend to post their work in batches in one thread. A good idea as it means that the airwaves don't get clogged up so it were. So I will post a selection of my work. Most has been posted on other forums so I apologies if you have seen them before. 

This is a hollow form mad from locally sourced beech. It measures 220 x 140mm was turned twice. 

Finished down to 800 grit loaded with cellulose sanding sealer, cut back and then buffed. On top of this it was coated with cannuba wax and buffed at speed on the lathe. 

I then always hand finish with a cloth off the lathe by hand to get rid of any small lines left in the wax from the cloth.

This peice I made several months ago.

comments welcome

Take care 

Mark


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## Bodrighy (15 Feb 2009)

Although I have seen your work on the AWGB site before it's still inspirational. I don't think that many on here belong to the association so it is worth putting these things up. Keep 'em coming.

Pete


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## cornucopia (15 Feb 2009)

the large picture really shows off the faultless finish mark- the form is also excellent- wot no lid !?!?!?!


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## mark sanger (15 Feb 2009)

Bodrighy


Thank you. I tend to post the same pictures and hope people do not get too bored at looking at them. I will be finishing lots of spalted silver birch forms soon so will have some new items to put up. The rest I normally just send out to re stock and do not take pictures of them due to the time involved. 



George 

Thank you. I have just reduced the size as I thought it may be too big.

Yes no lid :lol: :lol: this peice I made before I got the Lid bug that I have now.

thank you for your comment


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## Paul.J (15 Feb 2009)

Stunning Mark  
Just been looking on your website,and i love the burl piece with the hook shaped lid.Beautiful work.


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## mark sanger (15 Feb 2009)

PaulJ

Thank you for the comment. I have decided to change this thread to cover a selection of my work so I will post the burr piece with the hook lid.

M


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## mark sanger (15 Feb 2009)

This was a leaving present for the head teacher at my daughters school. The teacher did alot for us and my girls and I wanted to say thank you with somthing that was personal to me, somthing I had put myself into instead of going to the shops and just spending money. 

It is made of burr oak 120 dia x 150mm high. the lid is made of Anjan with a carved hook finial. The bead in between is ceramic.

It is finished in cannuba wax.


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## mark sanger (15 Feb 2009)

This piece is around 120m dia x 150 high, from memory, made of spalted beech with my usual anjan carved finial with a metal polished bead between the finial and the lid.

Finished in renaissance wax.


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## Jenx (15 Feb 2009)

Hi Mark ..
As with the 'other one in the other thread' ... absolutely outstanding work.
Truly wonderful.

The 'style' of one of yours, ( having had a good look several times now at your website') make your pieces instantly recognisable as a "Mark Sanger". 
And I'm thinking thats when you 'know' you're 'there' ... and you've really made a lasting impression and invaluable contribution to the 
craft as a whole.

Just lovely.


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## Doug B (15 Feb 2009)

Really great turning Mark.
I also really enjoyed looking at your web site, very inspirational.
I look forward to seeing more of your work.

Doug.


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## johnny.t. (15 Feb 2009)

Beautiful once again Mark, those carved finials set the pieces off a treat  The polished metal beads really 'lift' the sculpted top to great effect. 
I'm sure other members are ordering beads now over the entire country :lol: 
Thanks for sharing
JT


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## mark sanger (15 Feb 2009)

Jenx":14avmx8l said:


> Hi Mark ..
> As with the 'other one in the other thread' ... absolutely outstanding work.
> Truly wonderful.
> 
> ...



Jenx

Thank you very much, you are very kind to say this. 

I enjoy very much what I make and it has taken a long time for me to find somthing that I feel is coming just from me. 

You comment makes it all worth while.

Thank you very much again

Take care 

Mark


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## mark sanger (15 Feb 2009)

Doug B

Thank you very much. I will have some more soon as I roughed out around twenty spalted silver birch hollow forms around a month ago and they are now ready to finish. I tend to spen a few weeks rouging ang then a few finishing.

Johnny.t

Thank you. They are fun to use as there are so many colours, materials and textures to choose from. 

Thank you all again

take care 

Mark


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## Bodrighy (15 Feb 2009)

The spalted beeech one is really classy if that's the right word. Although you can see it is wood it looks almost like pottery. Do you only use Anjan for the finials or is it just the ones that you have shown so far. Do you carve them by hand or with a power tool?

!You can expect a load more questions from us learners by the way. Don't know if George warned you)

Pete


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## The Shark (16 Feb 2009)

Hi Mark,
Have just had a look at your website - wow, there is some nice stuff on there.
As a beginner, I am particularly interested in the quality of the finish you are achieving. I think I will have to practice some more!

Oh well, some-one else on the forum to aspire to.

Malc


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

Bodrighy":3rb1ywjf said:


> The spalted beeech one is really classy if that's the right word. Although you can see it is wood it looks almost like pottery. Do you only use Anjan for the finials or is it just the ones that you have shown so far. Do you carve them by hand or with a power tool?
> 
> !You can expect a load more questions from us learners by the way. Don't know if George warned you)
> 
> Pete



Pete

Thank you. 

I was never keen on spalted beech but now it is one of my favorites. It cuts nice, looks nice and finishes nice, apart from the dust aspect which can be sorted it is a lovely wood.

I do tend to only use anjan for the lids. The other option I use is to stain ash/beach or anything else I have as left overs. But I have found that I am not that good at staining and when i buff them it can cut back the stain a bit and make it look a bit, well stained. 

I am cautious as I do not know a massive amount about imported woods to use say African black wood and try to where I can use wood that is plantation grown or sustianable. But it is difficult to know for sure. 

Anyway I diversify, but then I expect George has told you I can talk too much :lol: 

In relation to how I make the finials. 

I use power tools. 

the design is marked onto the wood. Then it is cut out on a scroll saw.

Then I put a metal burr bit into the jacobs chuck of my lathe. Turn the speed up to around 2500 and remove the main of the material and blend off the sharp edges.

The I have a Foredom rotary carver with small bits that you may say use for piercing but they tapper up and get thicker towards the chuck end ( sorry don't know the name of this bit, but can find out if you want)

This I use to do the fine detail. 

Then it is back to the lathe and use a hook and loop arbor with 240 grit and sand down and blend in the areas I can.

Then the rest is finish by wrapping different grades of abrasive around small files to finish.

Cellulose sanding sealer. then i buff it with a polishing mop in the lathe. Make sure the finial is always pointing down and goes with the direction of the wheel or as I have found out it will fly across the room quick nicely and snap on the nearest metal thingy.

The I apply wax and finish by hand.

However. Before I had these tools I would cut out with a hand coping saw, use one of the drills that has a cutting edge, like you can use to cut shapes out of wood/plaster board etc. Then finish with files and abrasive.

Hope this helps. see I told you I can talk for England.

Take care 

Mark


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

The Shark":20z0rdzi said:


> Hi Mark,
> Have just had a look at your website - wow, there is some nice stuff on there.
> As a beginner, I am particularly interested in the quality of the finish you are achieving. I think I will have to practice some more!
> 
> ...



Hi Malc

There are not any secrets in turning as far as I am concerned. And everyone can achieve the same results as everyone else. 

I am self taught and am more than happy to help anyone as people have done for me. 

Just ask.

There are many turners that I aspire to, Liam Fynn, John Jordon, Stuart Mortimer, the list goes on. We are always learning and that is what I love about turning, it never gets boring.

here is how I do my finishing.

The surface has to be free of tear out or snags before finishing so I use a negative rake scrapper. A scrapper will only keep it's fine edge for say 10 second so keep touching it up with a diamond file. I always push the file toward the cutting edge to produce a fine burred edge.

Once the surface is finished with the scraper I use a drill with hook and loop sanding arbor. 

Now if you have used the scrapper to it's maximum by taking fine cuts I found that I can start sanding at 240 or even 320 grit depending upon the wood. 

But use to start at 120. I go through the grits down to 320. 

Some say you can not see any marks below this and this is probably right but I keep going then to 400 girt by hand keeping it moving over the wood so not to induce any marks.

Then I dampen the surface lightly with tap water ( if I am using shellac sanding sealer) 

This will swell the cut fibres. Once dry after a few minutes cut this back with 600 grit and if it is a very close grain wood, 800. If this is done well the wood will now look polished without even having put on sanding sealer or wax.

( if I am using cellulose which I do now) I leave out the dampening process as the cellulose does not cause the fibres to swell as water does. 

So load up with cellulose if you prefer/ this is what I have used on these. ( I use it as it is very quick drying and gives an excellent shine when buffed, it gives the depth of finish that I am looking for) 

Give it a real good soaking/loading. Then I buff this by turning the lathe speed up as high and safely as I can, buff with a clothe ( yes safety cloth should be used or kitchen towel as it will tear) but I use cotton and make sure I do not get my fingers wrapped in it. Pure cotton I have found buffs much better.

Don't use any form of man made cloth or the fibres will melt and stick to your work, then you have to cut this back with abrasive and start again.

Once buffed I apply Renaissance wax which for esthetic pieces stops finger prints showing. 

This is buffed by hand.

Now I also use cannuba wax. This is applied lightly with the work spinning ar around 2500 but safe for the size of work ( most of these forms are around 120mm dia -200 so not large.)

Then I buff using the cloth. You want to press hard enough so that the friction melts the wax and spreads a thin layer over the work, but not too hard so to remove the wax onto the cloth. This can take a bit of practice. 

Then I use a buffing wheel ( you can use one of the soft car ones that fit over a rubber 150mm sanding arbor) just to finish off and then I finally buff by hand.

It sounds long winded but it gives me the finish I want.

One golden rule as you are probably aware. When going through the grits never go to the next one until you have gotten rid of the marks that were caused before that grit. IE 120 -240, when using the 240 don't change to 320 until all of the 120 marks have gone and you only have 240 marks. Or you will never get them out.

Keep going until you have the best finish you can get. I never rush as a good form can be ruined by a bad finish and a good finish can be ruined by a poor form.

I hope this helps. 

Take care 

Mark


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## The Shark (16 Feb 2009)

Thanks Mark,
That explanation helps a great deal.
I think I may try simply roughing out some cylinders to have a practice at finishing


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

The Shark":38nws9p9 said:


> Thanks Mark,
> That explanation helps a great deal.
> I think I may try simply roughing out some cylinders to have a practice at finishing



Let me know if you have any problems. 

Mark


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

Here are a few more.

The first again is spalted beech with anjan and a metal bead. Again around 120mm dia x 150 high. finsished as before.


The second is oak with a black stained anjan carved lid but without a bead. Again about 120mm dia x 150 high or there abouts. 

Finished in cannuba wax and buffed.


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## mikec (16 Feb 2009)

Hi Mark,

Thanks for posting your work. I love the shape of your forms and the finish  

Mike C


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## TEP (16 Feb 2009)

Mornin' *Mark*.

Many thanks for posting these forms. I do admire the imagination that has gone into getting the final piece's. =D> Something which I used to think I had, but seems to be lacking these days.  

It also shows how a bit of 'new blood' in the forum catches peoples interest and attention. Well done, I really do like these.


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

Most of these pictures are on my web site and are not that new but just so you don't think I only make lidded pots/forms here are a few other bits of work.

The first is part of a range of wall hangings that I make and have been designed to be batch items so that I make them time and time again. 

They are simply turned on a screw chuck ( m10 with a 60mm back plate) so have lots of rigidity. The concentric circles are turned with a 1/2 " bowl gouge.

then the shapes which are my own designs are cut out with a fine tooth jig saw, after which I get the blow torch out and scorch them. Then the are sprayed with oil to finish.

My inspiration for these comes from years of interest in Zen and japanese calligraphy ( not that I am any good at either but have an interest) 

I like the way that the japanese can through simple line drawings produce such deep and complexed drawings which allow the mind to make observations without being forced by too much detail. 

With these I wanted to represent different ideas with a few lines of my pen. So I draw them into a scrap book and then produce the hangings once I am happy. The drawings I do in a few seconds or as fast as possible with just a few lines. This way for me the drawings are spontaneous and without restraint of too much thought and pre conceived ideas that may have come from other sources. Which from what we see is too easy to do.

I have many more but to date am still trying to get them into wood so to speak.

The first one is called "Nurture" and it is my representation of the bond between parent and child.

the second is called "Diva" and I wanted to express a female dancing.


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

Mikec

Thank you very much. 

I like to show my work and to use the forums as I work from home and also look after my young children so the amount of adult contact I have is minimal. The forums are a good way of me getting to chat and swap ideas with like minded people and they save my sanity by stopping me whistling The Telly Tubbies tune every time I walk round the supermarkets :lol: 

TEP

Thank you very much. We all have the imagination, but some times it gets stifled by the tread mill that we get on. This in turn for me takes the mind and wastes a lot of energy with us having to concentrate on things that block our creative side.

I have always been a very deep person and as a result had to leave my career in search of a more fulfilling life style. And luckily I started turning while I was in my last career and it just evolved from there.

Some thing I do is to carry a small note book with me at all times. Then when I come up with an idea I just do a quick line drawing or sentence. 

This is then refer back to when I have time. Try it you will be amazed how much pops in and out of your mind during the day.

Some ideas I do not return to for months but they are always in my little book.

Some of my ideas are good some bad, but all have value. 

Take care and thank you both for your kind comments 

Mark


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## Mark Hancock (16 Feb 2009)

Mark

Great to see your work posted on the forum. Keep them coming.


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

Hi Mark

Thank you.

I am amazed at how friendly and informative the forum is. Loads of talent and great people. 

Take care 

Mark


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## Jenx (16 Feb 2009)

mark sanger":codz7yh3 said:


> .
> the amount of adult contact I have is minimal.



I'd see this as a Plus !! :wink:  

Beautiful Wall Hangings... "Nurture" is just amazing.
Shapes that, on their own could almost be considered as 'simple'.. and yet, when combined together are unmistakeable as to what they represent. Having the 'vision' to create something like that is out of this world.
I've no qualifications in anything 'arty'.. I got 'hoofed out' of 'O'Level art after about a month on the grounds of having zero talent ( which was absolutely justifyable and correct :wink:  ).. but for what its worth from a real 'layman's eye' ... I think thats absolutely stunning.

( the same goes for Mark Hancock's stuff on his website too .. and what George shares with us.. and Glenn's work , and Duncan's .. _All_ the 'right talented' fellows who show their work here...)...
It's important that you guys get to know how much pleasure your creations bring to 'mere mortals' like me, --- your work is all truly outstanding, and I feel priviledged to have the facility to see it.
I'm sure I'm not alone in that  
Keep it all coming guys, you perhaps don't realise how much pleasure you bring. .. its Immense stuff, Thank you All.

8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

Jenx

It is very kind of you to say so. But I too am a mere mortal.

I was not even allowed to study art at school as I was a disruptive student. !!

I also do not believe that having a qualification in art is necessary to be creative. Whilst of course it may enable you to have professional tutoring and be able to learn from experience of the tutor/lectures and save the pit falls. At the end of the day this is only information in a certain type of format in it's presentation. The tutor learns it and passes it on. 

I am of course speaking of my own experiences and knowledge and this is my own opinion. As I would not want to upset any art students and yes you can learn much quicker with proper tutoring. !!

But what I do firmly believe in, and it is a philosophy that I have adopted all through my life is that anyone can achieve anything if they want to.

None of us are born with any form of artistic skill or knowledge and all is learnt in our early years ( informative years) But also we have the ability to move our arms and legs in any direction we want and producing a brush stroke and form is only a reflection of this movement.

Yes I know that it has to be practiced and refined but with patience and perseverance we can achieve anything.

You should see my fire wood pile when I am trying out new ideas !!

There are many I look to and think, wow, how do they do that.

Also I believe that for work and again this is my own opinion, and believe it is what sets people apart, is for work to have a genuine depth, it has to come from within. 

It has to be the essence of who the person is, and be a reflection of their thoughts, desires and beliefs. If this is the case then the work has a connection to that person and then becomes recognisable to them alone.

Turning in this sense for me is no different than paintings. we can all look at a picture of Picasso and recognise it straight away even if we had not ever seen it before.

Picasso did have formal training, but learnt originally from his father to draw. By the age of 14 he was outdoing even the tutors in the art school, and many of his drawings he would do in sand on the beach. He just took his ideas and created them without constraint.

Now yes I know some of you will be saying that he was great. Yes he was and no we can not all be like Picasso. 

But and I know I am rambling on but I am very passionate that we can all achieve what we want if we try and keep trying, be willing to learn, be self critical and accept constructive criticism and learn from it to better ourselves. Refine, refine, refine.

I will get off of my soap box, apologies. And your right I didn't do too well in english lessons either. :lol: 

Mark


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## Paul.J (16 Feb 2009)

Mark.
Not really into wall hangings,but these two i do like,and as made me think :shock: 
Even SWMBO saw them and said "they're nice.Can you do them" :roll: 
Another one on the to do list :roll:


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

Paul.J

Thank you. 

I am afraid I ama bit vacant when it comes to some web speak. What does SWMBO mean. Apologies for my ignorance.

Take care 

Mark


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## Mark Hancock (16 Feb 2009)

mark sanger":2zmzr0x0 said:


> Paul.J
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> ...



She Who Must Be Obeyed


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

:lol: :lol: :lol: . 
Thanks Mark 

It makes sence now. 

M


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## Mark Hancock (16 Feb 2009)

*Jenx*

Thank you for your kind words

*Mark*

Likewise here, no formal art training. But my upbringing and schooling was such that I've always believed that if I put my mind to something I could achieve it. Sometimes I just don't put my mind to it. :lol: 

The one advantage art training may give you is a better understanding of design and a vocabulary to help explain your ideas and concepts.

*Chas*

Beat you for once (SWMBO) :lol:


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

Mark 

I agree with you with regards to the formal training. 

I have just been back through and looked at a few of my comments and I can see that a bit more formal training in english would not go a miss with me. There is even a spell checker.!!

Apologies people I will try harder next time but it is a failing of mine. One of the many.

Mark


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## wizer (16 Feb 2009)

Mark do you use the FireFox browser? If so you can get a dictionary/language add-on which underlines mis-spelled words whilst you type. 

https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/3366

The forum spell checker is known for being in Chocolate Teapot territory.


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

Hi wizer

No I use outlook. I will just have to do some spelling tests with my seven year old daughter. I am sure she can get me back on the straight and narrow. 

I did notice the spell checker comes up with some real weird options. I just thought it was more words I did not concentrate on at school.

 

Mark


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## wizer (16 Feb 2009)

Try FireFox when you have a minute. Much nicer Internet Browser than Internet Explorer. 

Anyway. I have just finished reading this thread on my lunch break and wanted to say that I'm an instant Mark Sanger groupie. I love your work. We share an interest in Japanese Culture. I love this influence and intend to bring it into my work when I get some experience. The wall hangings are fantastic and I can see me blatantly stealing that idea one day.

So much info on this thread. You'll fit in just fine 'round here.


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

wizer

ok I will give it a try.

Never thought I would have a groupie, :lol: 

Probably too much info that people will think I am mad, well I am happily eccentric which suits me fine, or at least I am told I am.

M


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## Jenx (16 Feb 2009)

Mark, we're gonna need a thread of pictures of 

_'eccentric turnings from the eccentric turner' _now ! :wink:

Have you seen Tam's ( TEP ) Goblet ? its his avatar...
its a beaut ! 

Have you done any eccentric things , yourself ?


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## wizer (16 Feb 2009)

Keep it coming Mark, it's all valuable information.

How about some Work In Progress shots on one of your projects? Showing your techniques


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

Jenx

Yes I have seen the avatar it is great, was it turned I must have a look in more detail. 

No I have not done any eccentric work, I find it hard enough keeping things round.


wizer 

You are not to only one to have asked this recently and I will do a thread showing how I make one of my lidded pots but there isn't anything that new. 

I have just updated to mozilla and it appear quicker for some reason.

Next to update the spell checker.

I do work honestly but my youngest has a temperature of 103 today so can't get out to the workshop. 

but I think I mentioned that, I think I mentioned that,,
:? :? 

will post another pic of some work.


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

This is cherry around 120 mm dia x 240 mm high.

It has yet another anjan lid with black bamboo bar, the bamboo is from my garden. I turn the sphere with a small spigot on it.

Drill a central hole through it just a bit smaller than the bamboo. Cut the bamboo in half. Insert one end into the hole with CA glue, then insert the other end in again with CA glue and be quick to line it up. 

The spigot of the sphere is then inserted into a hole that was pre drilled into the lid. 

It is finished with a cellulose sanding sealer and cannuba wax.


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## wizer (16 Feb 2009)

I really like that one. Good contrast and interesting lid/finial.


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

cherry is one of my favourites. Unfortunately it seems to crack quite easily when drying, if done really slowly.

This platter is around 400mm dia x 50mm high, from recollection, the eggs were scraps of anjan that I had so I ebonised them to match in with the dark lines of the spalting and to add interest. Nothing new with the eggs but they are just nice organic forms that I like.


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## PowerTool (16 Feb 2009)

Hi Mark  


mark sanger":2uglc4eq said:


> cherry is one of my favourites. Unfortunately it seems to crack quite easily when drying, if done really slowly.



How do you get round this ? Is kiln-dried timber the best way to go?
I've had some lovely coloured cherry,but have found air-drying to be less than succesful (well,pretty disasterous,really  )

Andrew


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

Powertool

I turn 99.9 % of my work green, except for the finials and lids. The only way I have found to get over it is to dry it very slowly and consistently, so keeping it out of drafts etc and keeping it covered so that the moisture loss is to a minimum.

I had a piece the other day that had been turned down to around 10mm and had been seasoned for five months. I took it into my house and the heat difference was obviously too high. When I came down in the morning it had split from top to bottom.

hey ho, it happens.

Mark


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## Paul.J (16 Feb 2009)

Cracking pieces Mark.
Love em all  
Keep em coming.


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## wizer (16 Feb 2009)

I read recently about boiling blanks to reduce cracking, anyone tried it?


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

No it is not something that I have tried. 

I once tried microwave drying. My wife was asleep with our daughter. To cut a long story short I set fire to the bowl and got a serious telling off as the house was full of smoke. So I don't dabble in chemistry any more.

It was around 8 years ago but I still get reminded of it.

M


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

PaulJ 

Thank you for your comment.

M


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## Bodrighy (16 Feb 2009)

Paul.J":3qozie3h said:


> Cracking pieces Mark.



I hope not  

Pete


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)

Bodrighy

:lol: :lol: :lol: 

I hope not too as well. I keep all my finished pieces in my home for a good 3-4 weeks before finish turning, and even put some in the airing cupboard for a day, just to make sure, then let them settle back to room temp. If they crack after that then I just give in. Not happened yet. But turning has a great way of teaching me new lessons.

M


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## Bodrighy (16 Feb 2009)

I keep mine indoors as well so that if they are sold or given away they are as stable as possible. I have a lovely 12" natural edged cherry thin stemmed goblet that has just decided to split across the base....after 4 weeks indoors.  Still better than after someone payed for it.

Pete


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## mark sanger (16 Feb 2009)




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## Jenx (16 Feb 2009)

Wow. Words now fail ! 
That, along with Duncan's Laced bowl, and one or two others on the bowl front... is 
......... ........ Mindbendingly spectacular.

Is the little ball fixed ? or does he roll ?

Beautiful 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)


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## boysie39 (16 Feb 2009)

Mark, you are another bright light for us wannabe turners to gain inspiration from and to keep the growing reputation of the forum on the up. I thought it had peaked when I joined :lol: :lol: ,but there are still hidden gems out there it seems. 
I hope you have a very happy time here and find plenty to intrest you . You know and are known by quite a few here so it should make you feel at home. God Bless You . REgards Boysie.


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## Jenx (17 Feb 2009)

boysie39":3jt7bu01 said:


> I thought it had peaked when I joined :lol: :lol: ,


Boysie, you are beyond being an inspiration.. you're an enigma ! :wink:       
The Craic's always good from the Emerald isle    
and never fails to brighten the day ! 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

Hi

Thank you. 

This piece for a it more detail is called " Fudochi" which translates into
" unmovable wisdom"

It is from my Pure Thought series again something that I am continually trying to develop.

The bowl represents the mind with two conflicting thoughts. 

The curved cut out being a conflicting thought full of energy. 

The circle cut out being a calm pure thought.

The ball represents the centred mind unmoving, undistributed, concentrating on the Pure Thought.

This came as I have a long interest in such things for many years and the understanding that our minds are our most powerful allies or enemy.

A friend teaches Zen and he is always a calm happy person and he has always been someone I admire for his happiness and centred way. Well balance, calm and knowledgeable.

This idea translated into this bowl. 

The first one I made is on my web site and originally came from a cracked bowl that I had kept for several years while waiting for a "design opportunity" 

Now I cut up normal bowls to make them.


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

Jenx

Thank you very much indeed for your comments. No the ball is not fixed but it does have a flat turned on the base. I turn it protruding from the chuck and then part it off so that when it sits it does not roll.

The ball measures around 40-50mm

Boysie39

Again thank you very much it is kind of you and I am glad you like my work.

I do enjoy the forum very much as it is very active and has a lot of talented skilled people within the threads that have loads of interesting tips and information to learn from.

There has been much information I have picked up that is going to be put to good use out in the workshop.

Again it is a great forum and I believe the best there is with a great depth of content.

Thank you again

Take care 

Mark


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

I am looking forward to getting back into the workshop today as have some help looking after my daughters so I thought I would post this one which again some of you may have seen.

"Natures Bounty"

You may like it you may not.

It was an interesting project and again involved a small closed form that had a very fine crack in it ( no not all of my seasoning turns to cracked bowls, just a few every now and then, :lol: ) In fact thank fully very few now. But I never throw them away, just in case.

I will try to keep it short 
:lol: :lol: :lol: 

The materials were all left overs with the white Ivy that the form is sat on having been given to me by a friend. If you go to your saw mill and ask them I expect they will let you chop it off the side of the trees for nothing. 

The bark was removed. 

The base is ebonised ash left over from a wall hanging.

the eggs in the form are left over pieces that I again abonised. 

It is called "Nature's Bounty" as all of the material used has been provided by nature and would other wise have been thrown away, ( except I don't throw stuff away) much to my wife's annoyance.

And also because it represents a seed pod which looks like it has fallen from a tree onto the ivy, showing the cycle of life, revealing the eggs to restart the cycle.


This I posted within the AWGB forum as a process of how it was made and away to use a cracked form for " design opportunity" 

If anyone is interested I will post the process pictures.

As I say you may like it or you may not.


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

I will try to make the pictures a bit bigger to show more detail later

and as I say if you are interested in the process from start to finish I will post these too.

take care 

Mark


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## El-Zilcho (17 Feb 2009)

A step by step photo shoot would be fabulous. I don't know how many people I speak for but as a newcomer, being able to see how things look at each stage gives me a good reference that at least I am heading in the right direction. Albeit on a different road, but the right direction nontheless! Fabulous work, on here and your website. No galleries near me to see them in the flesh though  

Jez


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## The Shark (17 Feb 2009)

Hi Mark,
I agree, step by step shots are an invaluable aid for us beginners, and it would be much appreciated if you were to go to the trouble of posting.

Will you be after George's crown as the WIP king? :wink: 

Malc


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

These are the first two parts. The closed form with a fine crack and the ivy.










The form with a close up of the crack









The next thing I did was to turn the profile of the form and the inside true with a 1/2" bowl gouge. I use this tool for nearly all of my work. 

My gouge has a finger nail profile with the wings ground back. I use a Robert Sorby Universal grinding jig









The out side was than sanded using hook and loop abrasive on a standard 2" arbor. 

I then sanded the inside with a cut down 2" hook and loop pad/arbor which is fixed to into a drill extension. This one is 300mm, made by draper and cost around £7. It was used in a standard drill as below









This is a picture of it being used on the lathe to sand the inside. By resting it on the tool rest and lightly covering the rotating shaft with my fingers I can control the sanding. I used a 120 grit at this stage then down through the grits.







Once done I drew my desired design on the form to cover the crack. 

For this I use white board marker as if you use permanent it can soak into the wood and stain it. It can be a real pain to get rid of if you do not like the design. A white board marker can easily be sanded out so you can start again.








Once I am happy with the design the nest stage was to turn down the chuck spigot to as small a diameter.

This was done by blending the base curve in around to keep a flowing line by using a 1/4" spindle gouge. But you could use a 1/4 parting tool or even the 1/2" gouge. But my going to a smaller gouge you can get better access. This was then simply cut off with a fine saw.










The remains of the spigot that the saw left behind I then removed with a proxon carver. But a sharp craft knife, chisel can be just as effective. Watch you finger as they are very sharp.










The base was then blended in by hand using 120 grit. This being beech it is quite soft so blends nicely. Then I blend down through the grits to around 320. there is going to be a lot more work done to the piece so no need to go too fine with the finish at this stage.






You can still see the fine lines of the drawn area to be cut out.

This was simply cut out using a Bosch jig saw. By keeping the cutting blade at 90 deg as you move around the form you can cut it out quickly without hitting into the base.

In this picture you can see I have cut it out. You will also notice that the wall thickness is not even. IE it gets thicker towards the base. This is done deliberately. If you turn the wall thickness thin and even when you come to carve it out there will not be much material to blend the edges out. 

This will result in a flat form. By leaving the wall thickness thicker at the base you have more carving scope and the light will throw a shadow on the finish piece giving it much more depth and appeal






The edges were then blended back by 1/2- 3/4" using a 120grit abrasive on a hook and loop arbor in a Foredom rotary spindle/carver. You can see now the reason for leaving it thicker at the base. It gives the carved area much more depth and interest before I had one of these I would do it by using chisels, files and abrasive wrapped around file etc.

This was then blended back into the rest of the form by hand and finally the whole piece was finished down to 600 grit. 






Next I played around with different ideas using the Ivy for a base.

























I liked the one of the form being on it's side with the cut out facing at an angle.


I decided it would need a base so using a left over of a ash plank I placed the ivy and form on top and drew a design that I thought would work. Again mulling over this before cutting.














Once I was happy I cut out the base with a jig saw. 

The edges were then roughly blended back with an arbortech carver in an angle grinder. using full face protection as the splinters can really fly. You can't see it in the picture but the base was held down by a clamp to keep my hands out of the way. Then moved as and when







the edges were then refined using my rotary carver with a burr, then a hook and loop arbor with 120 grit on the lathe. Make sure you have suitable air extraction and face protection.

















Once the base was sanded down to 600 grit I placed the Ivy with the form on top to see how it was going. I left the Ivy intact at this time so that I had more design options later if I wanted to change it.








the base was then ebonised/stained black with chestnut spirit stain. giving it several good coatings to allow it to soak in.

It was brushed on. make sure you open the doors and have ventilation.













The I played around again to see other design opportunities








Three eggs were then turned on the lathe ( sorry didn't take any pics of this)

these were made of left over anjan. 

Originally I scorch the ivy and placed the anjan eggs into the form but there was too much going on. 

So I cut back the ivy to natural colour using abrasive and ebonised the eggs so that they would match the base colour.

The base was then buffed with a black wax made by Liberon and buffed by hand.

The ivy was cut to a length I was happy with.

The form and ivy were coated in renaissance wax with four coats and again buffed by hand.

I then set the ivy form and eggs together on the base to make sure I was happy.

The ivy was then cut and fixed onto the base using fine metal nails with the heads removed and glued into place. 

The form and eggs were left free so that people can move it around to suit the preference.

With this being the end result.











It is a bit of a rush this morning as I need to get out and do things. 

I will post more pictures of the finish piece later from different angles, in larger format.

If there is anything that is not clear or you want to know. Just ask.

take care and I hope it has been of interest.

Mark


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## CHJ (17 Feb 2009)

Thanks for the WIP pictures *Mark*, they say a picture is worth a thousand words but you precis of the process accompanying them strikes a good balance.


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## Jenx (17 Feb 2009)

Once again, Its a superb piece of work, Mark.

And the 'stage by stage' walk-through is teriffic in showing how the end result is achieved.

Excellent   8)


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## TEP (17 Feb 2009)

Very intriguing the way you have done this *Mark*, gets the old mind juices flowing. Believe me I need some just now. Very impressed the way you saved that form.


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## mikec (17 Feb 2009)

Mark,

Thanks so much for sharing your work and processes, I'm just blown away.

Your pieces have a great tactile appeal for me I just want to hold them and feel the curves :shock: and look at the details. 

Please keep posting

Regards,

Mike C


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

CHJ

Thank you for your comment. I am glad it is useful.


Jenx

Thank you 

The next one I intend to do is to show how I make one of my lidded pots/hollow forms from green/unseasoned wood, through to finishing and making the lid. But it may be a while as I need to get lots of roughing done due to running a bit into the low side.

TEP

Thank you. I never throw any disasters away unless they are totally gone. Thankfully now I do not get too many only the odd one every now and then. 

Glad you found it interesting.


mikec

Thank you. Don't worry I know what you mean. Work I agree should be touched and that is one of the privileges of working with wood as it is so warm to touch, as opposed to other media. Which in my view is very beautiful but not as tactile due to being cold.

Take care and thanks again all

Mark


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

A few more close ups and that is about it for this one.

M


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

Paper weights

These are quite a nice project to make if any one is interested and they are good sellers as they have a use, are small enough for people to pick up and take away with them at a show/fair. 

They are around 100mm dia but you can make them any size. they have a anjan insert in the base so that when they are turned over they have extra interest. Also this covers a screw chuck hole.

They are a brilliant way to use up off cuts that are too small for bowls etc.


They are also nice just to sit on the side board as a tactile ornament.

Finished in Renaissance wax and buffed.


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## Bodrighy (17 Feb 2009)

Are these heavy enough for paperweights Mark or do you put something in them

Pete


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## Jenx (17 Feb 2009)

Bodrighy":3fj59ky3 said:


> Are these heavy enough for paperweights Mark or do you put something in them
> 
> Pete



Just a thought for 'weight' Pete, if you needed a bit of 'mass' ....

Cheap tin of Airgun Pellets about £4 for 500 off fleabay, and a blowlamp.
( and something to use as a crucible ... one of the missus's old pots does me, when I've done something along similar lines with some lead. )

nice and heavy :wink:


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

Bodrighy":1y3q5u7t said:


> Are these heavy enough for paperweights Mark or do you put something in them
> 
> Pete



Hi Pete

yes they are quite weighty as they are around 100mm x 60mm. I also make them in Yew, Oak etc. 

You can certainly put lead shot in them if you like. 

Some people I know also put a coin in the top that refers to the date of birth of the person they are making them for, so you could put the lead below this.

I have to say that most people buy them just as they are so tactile and just put them on a shelf.

Take care 

Mark


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

Jenx":fzrwwbzy said:


> Bodrighy":fzrwwbzy said:
> 
> 
> > Are these heavy enough for paperweights Mark or do you put something in them
> ...



Jenx 

Thanks for the idea. A quick question. 

How do you pick out a bit of text that has been written and "quote it" I have been trying but can't seem to find an easy way.

Mark


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## Bodrighy (17 Feb 2009)

Click on quote as you've been doing then simply delete the words you don't want. Don't think there is an easier way.

Now someone will come on and prove me wrong :roll: 

Pete


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## Jenx (17 Feb 2009)

Thats the way I do it too ....
Click the QUOTE button in the post yuou want to quote from,

then.. as long as you keep the {quote} and the {/quote} at either end of the relevant text, you can 'edit' away to your hearts content ! .. but use the [] square brackets and not the curly ones like {} these :wink: 

If you want to quote from 'multiple' posts ... I use the 'cut and paste' technique and put them into my final post, containing all the different quotes.. its a bit of a 'fanyachh' about, but it works. :wink: 

Unless theres an easier way ?

8)


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

ah I see.


technology gets me every time. Give me a spinning piece of wood and a piece of metal to poke at it any day.

Thanks for that

M


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## El-Zilcho (17 Feb 2009)

That photo walk through is fantastic Mark. Thanks for sharing. I spent the afternoon making a grinding jig, so it is good to see what standard I could be up to in 9 years if I keep practicing!


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## Paul.J (17 Feb 2009)

Great *WIP* Mark,and a fantastic looking piece at the end  
Nice idea for the paper weights too.I'd be happy just doing those


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

El-Zilcho":3nylzljc said:


> That photo walk through is fantastic Mark. Thanks for sharing. I spent the afternoon making a grinding jig, so it is good to see what standard I could be up to in 9 years if I keep practicing!



Your welcome. 

I like to share my work and I am a bit of a forum junky if it is to be know as I never get to meet many like minded people. I just hope people don't get fed up with all my posts. 

So far, so good.

A grinding jig is a good bet. I made one originally from details I got off of the net. It worked ok but I couldn't quite get the swept back wings I wanted on my gouge. 

I spent £70 odd pounds on the Robert Sorby and once I used it I kicked myself more than once for not buying it before. It made a huge difference.

I know that for some being able to grind by hand is an important part of learning to turn. 

For me I wish I purchased the jig years before. 

Take care 

Mark


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

Paul.J":3tulrwls said:


> Great *WIP* Mark,and a fantastic looking piece at the end
> Nice idea for the paper weights too.I'd be happy just doing those



Paul 

Thanks

The paper weights and how to make them was in an article I wrote for Woodturning magazine in Oct 2008. So they should have a back copy

They are really very simple. 

Let me know if you want to know how to make them if you can;t get hold of it .

M


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## Paul.J (17 Feb 2009)

*Mark Sanger wrote*


> Let me know if you want to know how to make them if you can;t get hold of it .


Thanks Mark.I should have that copy and will fish it out.
And will give em a go,when i get a lathe that is :roll:


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

Paul.J 

Apologies have I missed something. Do you now have a lathe?? 

Am I being my normal slow self??

M


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## Paul.J (17 Feb 2009)

*MS wrote*


> Apologies have I missed something. Do you now have a lathe??


No need Mark.Very long story,which you know part too,via George.
I am/was an Hegner owner.


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

Paul.J":pm41iccf said:


> *MS wrote*
> 
> 
> > Apologies have I missed something. Do you now have a lathe??
> ...



ah now all is clear

Yes me too. But hopefully the vicmarc300 short bed will be a new edition soon, may be, one day, if I sell a few more bowls.


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

I have to say

I am very impressed with the Hegner for the money. I have hammered mine for the last two years and it hasn't complained once. It may bounce around the workshop but never complains, lol



M


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## Jenx (17 Feb 2009)

Mark, have you a photo of 'said beast' ? 

I'd like a look of that monster bowl !
:wink: 8)


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

Jenx

I will have a look.

To see what I have left on disk.

M


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## El-Zilcho (17 Feb 2009)

Cheers for the reccomendation - as soon as I have £70 spare I'll think about it. Or at least add it to the wanted list...

I'm also looking foward to my wife's reaction when I 'amend' one of my bowls with a jigsaw, as I love what you created there!


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## mark sanger (17 Feb 2009)

El-Zilcho":2qhslm8e said:


> Cheers for the reccomendation - as soon as I have £70 spare I'll think about it. Or at least add it to the wanted list...
> 
> I'm also looking forward to my wife's reaction when I 'amend' one of my bowls with a jigsaw, as I love what you created there!



I know £70 is a lot of money but out of all the tools I have purchased, besides the lathe and gouges, the grinding jig has been the most used and useful. It gives me repeatability and allows me to spend more time turning and less time grinding.

I turn a bowl. Turn to my right, a quick grind and I'm back turning with consistent results.

Have a go with the jig saw. It is very liberating to allow your artistic side free. especially on a perfect form. the end result is great. 

M


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## Bodrighy (17 Feb 2009)

I've got the Sorby and though £70 is a lot to lay out you save this in time as the tools last a lot longer. Grinding freehand, unless you are an expert gets rid of the steel a lot faster. A quick few strokes with the jig is all it takes.

Pete


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## mikec (18 Feb 2009)

Have to agree with Bodrighy.

I too have the Sorby and re-sharpening swept back grinds is very quick and removes very little metal.

I'm now re-organising my layout to put the grinder at the end of the lathe having finally realised that what feels sharp may not actually be sharp enough, especially the burr on a scraper.

Regards,

Mike C


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## jpt (18 Feb 2009)

HI Mark

As I have said before a stunning piece but I still prefer the simplicity of the picture of just the form standing on the base, but SWMBO prefers the full piece.

A question how do you sand the inside of it, I use a pad as you show to do the bottom of deep objects but I cant get it to work on the sides.

So if you dont mind what do you use and how?

john


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## mark sanger (18 Feb 2009)

El-Zilcho":331mfxay said:


> Cheers for the reccomendation - as soon as I have £70 spare I'll think about it. Or at least add it to the wanted list...
> 
> I'm also looking foward to my wife's reaction when I 'amend' one of my bowls with a jigsaw, as I love what you created there!



Don't forget to post a picture I would love to see it.

M


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## mark sanger (18 Feb 2009)

jpt":18ccymbc said:


> HI Mark
> 
> As I have said before a stunning piece but I still prefer the simplicity of the picture of just the form standing on the base, but SWMBO prefers the full piece.
> 
> ...



John

It is more difficult to do the sides. What I do is to scrap the inside to get the best finish to start with.

Then I cut a disk over size by around 2 inches so that it over hangs the arbor. Snip the abrasive so that you can bend it round the sponge bit, then tape it around the shaft. the you have a fast spinning arbor with abrasive down the sides. 

By keeping the arbor at an angle you can sand down but be careful as if you push too hard the plastic of the arbor can wear through and mark the form. 

Then finish with finer grit say when you have gone past 320 and doing 400-600 is to do what has been handed down through time from as long ago and the Pharao's themselves. 

If you believe that :lol: :lol: :lol: 

If the form is not large enough to safely get my hand into with some abrasive then I will use a sanding stick being a 10mm dowel with a split in it. Slide some 400 grit in through the slot and wrap it around clockwise several times. Then you can sand the inside without it unwrapping.

Or if the form is not very deep I will get a meter role of abrasive and unroll it. Then roll it back up again but at a slight angle. This will make it into a longer taper and if you roll it like this tightly you can then use this down inside the walls instead of your fingers. By wrapping it tight it will be quite ridged and you will be able to apply enough force to sand effectively. 

Let me know if I have not made sense.

M


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## El-Zilcho (18 Feb 2009)

Hmmm, looks like the Sorby jig is the one to get! 
I have an idea of how to cut a bowl, will have a go tommorow and post results. Assuming I don't cut any fingers off....about nine months ago I was making a wine rack out of a reclaimed oak beam and broke a bone in my hand, lenghtways from knuckle to wrist. I am a little wary of hand held power tools now - maybe a jig is a good idea for me :lol:


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## miles_hot (18 Feb 2009)

El-Zilcho":3gdr7ooa said:


> Hmmm, looks like the Sorby jig is the one to get!
> I have an idea of how to cut a bowl, will have a go tommorow and post results. Assuming I don't cut any fingers off....about nine months ago I was making a wine rack out of a reclaimed oak beam and broke a bone in my hand, lenghtways from knuckle to wrist. I am a little wary of hand held power tools now - maybe a jig is a good idea for me :lol:


I went for the Tru Grind one in the end - I'll only get to try it when I finally get up the the in laws (where it is installed) however it looks a lovely bit of kit.


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## jpt (18 Feb 2009)

Mark

Thanks for the reply some useful info there.

For doing the inside of smaller items I use these.





They dont work so well on larger items or anything with a curved wall as the wood can scratch the surface.

Jenx and big soft moose have given me an idea though when talking about kids soft balls. I am going to try wrapping the wood in foam then putting the velcro on in strips.

If that doesnt work I will try one of the soft balls stuck to the end of a dowel and then velcro on top.

I will let you know how it works out.

john


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## Bodrighy (18 Feb 2009)

jpt":3c8wy9wu said:


> Jenx and big soft moose have given me an idea though when talking about kids soft balls. I am going to try wrapping the wood in foam then putting the velcro on in strips.
> 
> If that doesnt work I will try one of the soft balls stuck to the end of a dowel and then velcro on top.
> 
> ...



It should work. You can buy things like that commercially. The abrasive comes in disc form with little v segments cut out around it so it fits onto the ball. If you do some could you post info as I'm d****** if I am going to fork out for something if I can make it myself. :evil: 

Pete


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## jpt (18 Feb 2009)

Bodrighy":7hd7te5y said:


> It should work. You can buy things like that commercially. The abrasive comes in disc form with little v segments cut out around it so it fits onto the ball. If you do some could you post info as I'm d****** if I am going to fork out for something if I can make it myself. :evil:
> 
> Pete



its the Simon Hope sanding ball I think you meen, I brought one a few years ago. They work but are made out of hard rubber so only a very small bit of abrasive is in contact at any one time.

I will hopefully have a go tomorrow I will let you know how it goes.

john


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## mark sanger (19 Feb 2009)

jpt":2o3b9ptq said:


> Mark
> 
> Thanks for the reply some useful info there.
> 
> ...



John

I did not buy the simon Hope sanding ball. Not because I do not think it is good. But I am always tinkering and making my own stuff to save money.

Thanks for the pic of what you use. Damn I am going to have to clean my Hegner. Mine looks like the back end of the Titanic compared to yours.

M


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## mark sanger (19 Feb 2009)

El-Zilcho":38ns74oi said:


> Hmmm, looks like the Sorby jig is the one to get!
> I have an idea of how to cut a bowl, will have a go tomorrow and post results. Assuming I don't cut any fingers off....about nine months ago I was making a wine rack out of a reclaimed oak beam and broke a bone in my hand, lengthways from knuckle to wrist. I am a little wary of hand held power tools now - maybe a jig is a good idea for me :lol:



Would certainly be good to see the end result. 

ouch that sounds as if it was painful. The jig as you know I like. And you won't regret it. I hate parting with money but once I got it as I say I kicked myself for not getting it earlier.

More turning time, less grinding.

 

M


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## El-Zilcho (19 Feb 2009)

Pictures posted! My wife said "different", but I am dead chuffed. I was planning it last night, and it is half what I had envisaged, but I want to do another asap!

Cheers for inspiration and encouragement.

Jez


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## mark sanger (19 Feb 2009)

El-Zilcho":3osa0lre said:


> Pictures posted! My wife said "different", but I am dead chuffed. I was planning it last night, and it is half what I had envisaged, but I want to do another asap!
> 
> Cheers for inspiration and encouragement.
> 
> Jez



Jez 

where are the pics I can't seem to find them.

M


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