# Best thin parting tool



## Shay Vings (17 Apr 2009)

I'm new to turning and have the Draper starter tool set with a 6mm diamond parting tool which seems fine. 

I now need a thin parter for boxes etc. I see several makes on the market, but the Sorby 830SH 2mm 1/16th seems popular but has a fluted blade. These tools are not expensive as turning tools go so any recommendations? 

And is it difficult to keep that flute when sharpening?


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## Bodrighy (17 Apr 2009)

I use an old hacksaw blade in a home made handle. Works fine. Any steel from a saw blade should do.

Pete


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## thomvic (17 Apr 2009)

I use broken hacksaw blades - suitably sharpened of course.

Richard


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## CHJ (17 Apr 2009)

Shay Vings":2y7gvegq said:


> .......I now need a thin parter for boxes etc. I......



A thin parting tool like the pattern shown at the top of this pic. would be my recommendation for use on boxes etc.






Mine came from Ashley Iles but any of the major brands using HSS should be fine.


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## cornucopia (17 Apr 2009)

hello and welcome
i have the top one in chj's picture- its great for box's


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## TEP (17 Apr 2009)

Hi *Shay*, and welcome to the forum.

The tool you mention has not got a flute, just a large top bevel, and a small 1/8" lower bevel, all easy enough to keep in good fettle.

As the others have mentioned a lot of us use old hacksaw blades, but I must clarify that, they are machine hacksaw blades not the usual ones you buy for a hand saw.

The one I started with was about 14" long, 1 1/4" deep and almost 3/32" thick. 

 these are the ones I use. The upper is obviously the hacksaw blade, while the other was made from a piece of a steel cutting band saw blade which is only 1mm thick. 

 Gives you a close up of the grind on the cutting end.

I bought two of these blades for £1.50 each at a stall in a flea market brand new. Just had to spend the time grinding the teeth off, I expect just one blade to last me for many years, and maybe as long as I need one. I don't put handles on mine as it wastes steel. :lol:


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## Soulfly (17 Apr 2009)

I tend to use a skew chisel for parting and hardly ever use a parting tool. The less tools you have cluttering up your bench, the better.


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## CHJ (17 Apr 2009)

Not too happy with your 'no handle' versions *Tam*, for a newcomer to the sport anyway. 
Would rather have the load spreading comfort of a handle than risk the bruising that could result from a bad catch.

As an aside, do you find the small rubbing bevel a big advantage? I currently use mine 'as supplied' and have not found any need to try the additional bevel.


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## TEP (17 Apr 2009)

Hi *Chas*.

Must admit I have never had a catch with this tool, (can't say that about the others though  ) also, as you mostly have to part off with one hand, I rest the top of the blade beneath my forearm which steadies it up good style.

I've never used this tool without the small bevel, so can't really comment on a comparison but I do find that if working on really small stuff you can have the bevel rubbing while you set yourself up, then just lift the tool to pick up the cut. If you do a search on the Sorby tool *Shay* mentions I believe they have the small bevel as well. Yet the Chris Stott and Crown ones are usually sold without. Personally I don't think you would be able to rub the tool without a bevel, with yours you must go straight into the cut.

As with a lot of this lark you can get used to anything, and very little is hard and fast. If yours works for you, I would stick with it. If you ever foresee the need for a bevel it is not hard to put on, mine never gets any longer than about 3/16" before I grind the big bevel and bring it back.


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## hog&amp;bodge (18 Apr 2009)

I have been using 246 in *CHJ* pic very wasteful will give the Hacksaw
blade a go but would like a less flexible steel blade for long term use..


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## TEP (18 Apr 2009)

Mornin' *Hog*.

The machine hacksaw blades I am talking about are not very flexible believe me. Unless you shove it 4-5 inches over the rest, and if you are going that far you shouldn't be using a thin parting tool. IMV


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## tekno.mage (18 Apr 2009)

I use one similar to the top on in CHCs pic (mine's the Hamlet version which I think cost just over a tenner) , but ground it with the small lower bevel like Tam's. Prior to that, my partner made one from an old Donkey saw blade and a plastic handle - which worked for him, but I found horrible to hold.

I've never achieved using even my Hamlet one one-handed, though, as I have very small hands and find the thing difficult to control one-handed, I usually stop the lathe when there is only a tiny bit left holding and either twist the wood apart or finish with a saw.

The other thing I've noticed is that these tools seem to generate a *lot* of heat where the sides of the blade rub the wood (especially when parting off larger diameters) and can cause significant heat checking (particularly on woods like Yew), so I now use the thin parting tool to cut a small starting groove then do the rest of the cut with a tenon saw and the lathe stopped, which avoids this problem. 

tekno.mage


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## wizer (18 Apr 2009)

One of the thin parting tools (Iles I think) is tapered bottom to top to reduce heat build up.


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## TEP (18 Apr 2009)

Mornin' *TM*.

Even with a 'thin' bladed parting tool, you either 'go for it' ie- find the cut and really shove it in. Or as with any tool going deep into wood you really need to relieve the cut. When doing a careful cut, (box lid) my cut is usually straight in for about ¼”. Then I withdraw slightly and start a cut again at a slight angle so as the inside of the cut is about a blade and a half wide, you then continue to cut in about ¼” at a time cutting at each side, if you don't do this you will burn. I reckon anything over about a inch cut really needs to be widened, and done as two cuts. Minimum a blade and a quarter, you won't burn then.

:idea: Another tip is if you want a clean bottom :twisted: :wink: , say on a goblet, grind the tip of the tool like a skew. Looking from the top you want the point of the skew to the right, then as you part right through it does leave a better cut on the right hand side, rather than if the cutting tip was straight across.


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## Jonzjob (18 Apr 2009)

I have that 244A but with a bevel ground on the point, as per recomendastion from Ian Wilkie when I did a weekend course with him. I also cut about 1 1/4 blade width with it and unless I get sloppy and don't maintain the width I don't get much problem with burning. The tip of the tool does get REALLY hot though. 

If I am just doing a flat bottom then I use my Carol drum sander in my drill press to finish the bottom off. With almost completely knick-knacked J-flex in it I get a really nice finish..

About the only thing my 1.4" parting tool gets used for these days is to turn spiggots. That little tool is musch better for me.


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## Richard Findley (18 Apr 2009)

Shay Vings":3lx5knjd said:


> And is it difficult to keep that flute when sharpening?



Hi Shay,

The fluted tools are, IMHO, a bit over rated. When sharpening you don't touch the flute, just the bevel, which leaves a sharp edge. The biggest problem with the fluted one I've used is that the edges of the flutes are against your tool rest and leave nicks in it :evil: This can become quite annoying!!

May be worth looking in this months "Woodturning" magazine. Page 24 has a special offer on the Ashley Iles 2mm Parting tool. This one is shaped like a traditional tool rather than the wide flat one the other guys are discussing (which is equally good)

At the end of the day, this is a very basic kind of tool (flat metal with a bit of a bevel) and as long as you take your time with the cut and (as TEP discribed) relieve the cut slightly you will be fine with whichever tool you buy.

Good luck,

Richard


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## Bodrighy (18 Apr 2009)

I more or less do what Tam and others suggest. Cut an initial groove until it starts to grab, about an inch, relieve frationally and then move the tool back and forth sideways as I cut keeping the slot slightly wider than the tool. I also use a japanese saw to cut off in the groove where wood is at a premium on smaller things, with the lathe stopped) as the saw is very thin and the groove acts as a guide to keep it straight. Could use a little hacksaw as well

Pete


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## tekno.mage (18 Apr 2009)

Thanks for those tips. Tam - I'll give them a try.

tekno.mage


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## hog&amp;bodge (18 Apr 2009)

TEP":17y0ijan said:


> Mornin' *Hog*.
> 
> The machine hacksaw blades I am talking about are not very flexible believe me. Unless you shove it 4-5 inches over the rest, and if you are going that far you shouldn't be using a thin parting tool. IMV



Sorry* TEP* I just crashed out on the couch...hate bad nights...
Will give the saw blade a go, have a friend who is into metal..he will
have some hard old blades laying about, he never chucks anything out..

Another great tip from you


> Another tip is if you want a clean bottom :twisted: :wink: , say on a goblet, grind the tip of the tool like a skew. Looking from the top you want the point of the skew to the right, then as you part right through it does leave a better cut on the right hand side, rather than if the cutting tip was straight across.


Again another thread full great advice and helpful tips..


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## Gitface (19 Apr 2009)

Hi All

Was looking on ebay and found these, am I barking up the wrong tree as the price seem low.

Link here

Mark.............


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## DaveL (19 Apr 2009)

Gitface":3ui3dv8c said:


> Was looking on ebay and found these, am I barking up the wrong tree as the price seem low.
> 
> Link here


Well they are for metal work, there is a holder that this tool steel is mounted in and that is then clamped to the tool post. The blade is not as deep as the ones sold for wood work, so will not be as rigid, must admit at that price I am tempted to get one to try out. :?

Just found this one a little bit deeper, I think I will get one to try. 8)


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## loftyhermes (19 Apr 2009)

I use a Draper 32mm chisel knife and grind the end the same as tep does his blade.

http://www.drapertools-online.com/b2c/b2citmdsp.pgm?pp_skmno=71288


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