# dulling an oil finish



## Anonymous (2 Dec 2006)

Is it possible to alter danish oil so as it will be matt finished instead of shiny especially on smooth ash?
I used to use a matting paste to alter screen printing inks for just the same purpose, is there something similar for oils? :lol:


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## Lord Nibbo (2 Dec 2006)

mr spanton":2x1me5iq said:


> Is it possible to alter danish oil so as it will be matt finished instead of shiny especially on smooth ash?
> I used to use a matting paste to alter screen printing inks for just the same purpose, is there something similar for oils? :lol:


 What about trying very fine wire wool, 0000 grade after the oil had dried out.


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## johnnyb (4 Dec 2006)

flood the first coat and wipe off paying attention to bleed back. subsequent coats should be barely wiped on with tiny amounts. if your timber is scraped not sanded it will still tend to gloss. and dont sand too fine as the wood itself is really the finish. something thin like liberon finishing oil is the best. linseed oil allowed to thicken in a jar will allow a build and go shiny what you need is the opposite. minimal amounts of thin oil with little build. matting is not really effective with built up oil as it is tough but flexible and wont scratch properly. so basically avoid the build up and especially the bleed back. 2-3 coats will provide some protection.


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## Evergreen (5 Dec 2006)

Hallo Mr S

I think JohnnyB is spot on the money with his advice. As I've got older, I seem to like the sublety of matt finishes more and more. So I sand less and less and I've gone back to using boiled linseed oil thinned with varying amounts of genuine turps. And if you use BLO, you need to keep buying fresh supplies. In the past, I've hung onto the dregs of the bottle until it was so thick it was like cough mixture! Which was a false economy because it's dirt cheap, really.

Regards.


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## Anonymous (5 Dec 2006)

Thanks for your replies gentlemen

Hi Johnny B  
Is bleed back like when say a little pool of oil gathers in a crevice say at the point where a spindle enters the seat, and it settles out into a bigger pool after you thought youd clothed up all your excess oil and leaves a shiney puddle when it all dries up? 

Evergreen  
I just discovered genuine turps, I love the smell (homer) . Does it actiually do a better job than turps substitute (white spirit) or am I wasting my time?
Cheers Jonathan 

Oh and does adding a touch of terebene juice to acelerate drying do any harm especially if I was to use raw lin seed oil?


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## Evergreen (5 Dec 2006)

Mr S

You're not alone - the smell of genuine turps is wonderful! As far as I'm aware, genuine turps is derived from the resins of certain coniferous trees and can be used for thinning various finishes and for making paste polishes. Art students also use it for mixing oil paints. Turps substitute, on the other hand, is derived from petroleum I think. It can also be used for thinning but I've only ever used it for degreasing and cleaning things. I only use genuine turps these days - I somehow feel happier that it comes from a tree!

I've never used terebene and so I can't comment on it. Isn't it carcinogenic, though? Do make sure that you've got good ventilation if you use it and avoid skin contact. Better safe than sorry!

Regards.


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## johnnyb (5 Dec 2006)

bleedback occurs after applying oil and wiping off, the oil tends to continue to exude from the pores of the wood for sometimes hours after and leaves shiny spots so you are right. i personally prefer white spirit/ substitute to the proper stuff. turpentine seems to make the finish softer no evidence just a feeling. watch the episode of ray mears program where he makes turps and stockholm tar from old pieces of pine heated in a barrel!! terebine is usually already in boiled oil btw. americans love oil finishes to and also products called rubbing varnish basically a mix of oil and varnish, some danish oils are also like this, these will also build quickly. try pure tung.


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## Anonymous (5 Dec 2006)

Thanks gentlemen
Handle terebene with care I reckon! I use chemical's as little as possible.
As it happens I did see Ray and his native guide making tar etc from pine clippings, I cant remember what exactly they used it for though?! Another time he made some glue to fix flint heads onto arrows made from pine resin. And he made a sealant from bear fat and pine resin to fill small holes in a birch bark canoe. Extremely intresting. 8) 
I heard they made paint from tallow and earth or tallow and ox blood at one time :shock: Or they mixed tallow (or linseed oil) with lime for exterior whitewash.


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## joekid (12 Dec 2006)

wire wool method worked for me/ different wood though


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