# Where do you put power sockets in relation to workbench?



## Triggaaar (17 Oct 2009)

I've managed to make space in my shed for a future workbench, but I've got to put the power sockets in now. Is it best to have them at the beginning and end of the bench, below, just above (like in a kitchen) or way above?

Thanks


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## wizer (17 Oct 2009)

I really don't think there is an obvious answer to this. Mine are above the bench, a little higher than in a kitchen. In the past I have clamped an extension lead to a hook on the ceiling which works well. It's a suck it and see situation.


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## mtr1 (17 Oct 2009)

I thought about putting sockets in the bench itself, perhaps in one of those vertical concealed push thingys. Or what about flush fitted to the front apron 8)


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## matt (17 Oct 2009)

All my sockets are high. I find it easier to work without cable trailing in my space.


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## bobscarle (17 Oct 2009)

My sockets are above bench level, just seemed easier that way. The only thing I would add is work out how many you think you will need then multiply by 1.5. That way you may get near enough!

Bob


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## Ironballs (17 Oct 2009)

Mine are high and off to one side, that way they can feed bandsaw, extractor, radio, router, biscuiter, drill etc etc


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## SVB (18 Oct 2009)

Err - in an ideal world all of the above.

I have some high and to either end of the bench + a permanent 4-gang plugged into one with the socket block screwed to the bench leg (right facing not to the front to avoid getting in the way).

S


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## Boz62 (18 Oct 2009)

Definitely high. Many years ago I put a separate ring main into the garage and attached workshop, with lots of double sockets at head height. Has paid off no end. After my workshop rehash I've kept them at that height, with a row on the wall above the workbench. Means I can always find them, don't have to dig behind things to get at them, and cables are up and out of the way. 

As well as "normal" extension leads, I've made up one on a piece of ply with one of these NVR switches at the socket end. This gives me a close-by STOP switch when doing power tool stuff on workbench or floor.

Boz


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## MikeG. (18 Oct 2009)

Mine are very high....about 7 feet up the wall, and clustered at both ends of the bench. My tools can stay permanently plugged in without the cables draping over the bench. I also dangle a couple of short extension leads, one at each end of the bench, for other tools, or for jobs in the middle of the workshop floor.

Mike


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## woodbloke (18 Oct 2009)

I have a ring main running round the 'shop that's about 400mm up from the floor with about 20 double sockets, two of which are located much higher up over each end of the bench. I've never yet needed to use any sort of extension lead - Rob


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## John. B (18 Oct 2009)

Mine are all just above head height and have small hooks in various places under the roof beams to keep trailing cables out of the way 
(The workshed roof is rather low)

John. B


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## Triggaaar (18 Oct 2009)

Very helpful, thanks all


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## frugal (18 Oct 2009)

Mine are conveniently located just above the workbench, and I do mean just, I have found one extension cable that has a flexible enough plug and cable to bend before it bashes against the top of the workbench. :?


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## flying haggis (19 Oct 2009)

hang one of these energy cubes above the bench and you will have six sockets at head height (ok hang it a bit higher or put up with the headaches)


http://cpc.farnell.com/brennenstuhl/115 ... dp/PL03220


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## jlawrence (19 Oct 2009)

My actual sockets are mounted on the wall about 3 inch up from the worktop, I then run an extension lead around to the front of the bench for when I don't want leads trailing over the bench.
I'm in the process of running some new circuits which will be at various heights including some in the ceiling.


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## Shultzy (19 Oct 2009)

I've put one ring in at low level for the fixed machines, bandsaw, extractor etc and one ring at high level on the roof trusses. I cut all the cords on my drills, router, jigsaws etc down to 6", then hung coils of cables hooked on to the trusses. To connect a power tool its easy to uncoil a cable and attach. Makes it easier to store tools as well.


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## petermillard (20 Oct 2009)

Ditto - ideally above and below. I also have a 'permanent' trailing lead-type extension cable that feeds sockets hanging above the worktables at about head height; anything plugged into these automatically triggers the extractor, so good for hand-held power tools - circ saws, routers, sanders etc..

And thumbs-up for thinking about the power _before_ you get the benches in place...

Cheers, Pete


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## Aled Dafis (20 Oct 2009)

petermillard":6s7x8oqk said:


> Ditto - ideally above and below. I also have a 'permanent' trailing lead-type extension cable that feeds sockets hanging above the worktables at about head height; anything plugged into these automatically triggers the extractor, so good for hand-held power tools - circ saws, routers, sanders etc..



How does this work Pete? Do you have any links to the system you use for triggering your extractor?

Cheers

Aled


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## petermillard (20 Oct 2009)

Aled Dafis":w0g00bs2 said:


> How does this work Pete?



Simplest way possible (usually best for me) - the extractor is a vac-type with power take-off and auto-start, and my 'permanent' extension cable runs from the PTO (actually a power strip attached to the PTO via a plug-in RCD) to above the worktables, ending in a couple of well-placed rubber trailing sockets.

I have a wall-mounted boom-arm with a couple of metres of hose and a D27 endpiece above the centre of the worktables where my radial arm saw sits; the extractor's usually hooked up to the RAS, but when I need to use other tools I can just disconnect the D36 hose (from the RAS) attach it to the overhead hose, then I have instant dust extraction for any tool I plug into the trailing sockets above the worktables, and a long enough reach to work either side of the radial arm saw.

I've tried other things, but this works well for what I do.

HTH, cheers Pete.


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## Triggaaar (24 Oct 2009)

petermillard":3qjiln9u said:


> And thumbs-up for thinking about the power _before_ you get the benches in place...


Thanks, but a huge thumbs down for not finding this forum 3 months ago, and consequently building my shed/workshop way too thin. It's only after working on the new guest house & shed at the bottom of the garden that I've realised how much I like working with wood, and that I now have the space for a bit of a workshop. But I built it as a storage shed, so it's only 5.3m x 1.9m (making it thin gave extra width to the nice guest house, which is 5.6m x 6m).

I'm searching through past workshop threads, and just read an interesting project converting a single garage (5m x 2.5m) which was great, and highlighted how important the width is. Doh! I feel really annoyed.


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## big soft moose (24 Oct 2009)

just move the workshop into the guesthouse - and give guests a sleeping bag in the shed simples


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## Triggaaar (24 Oct 2009)

In that case, I may have overdone the quality of the workshop, particularly given that I have no woodworking skills.

I've been searching through threads trying to find clever workshop designs, with moving bandsaws etc that could be an option should I ever get that far. I've got space for a fair workbench, and plenty of storage, but not really for something like a table saw.

Any ideas on where I can look for good design ideas? (or should I start yet another thread?)


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## OPJ (24 Oct 2009)

If you haven't seen this link before then, it's always worth a look. :wink:


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## Triggaaar (24 Oct 2009)

OPJ":2lypfwxr said:


> If you haven't seen this link before then, it's always worth a look. :wink:


Yeah just found that today, thanks. That's where I got the bandsaw on wheels option.


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