# Crumbling cement floor in workshop



## pe2dave (20 Aug 2022)

Cheapskate builders, the concrete floor is crumbling. Sealed and painted, recurs where foot traffic.

How good are the 'expensive' Rust-oleum epoxy products? Worth it?
Any idea how to get better adhesion to existing concrete please?
I've about 10 small areas, with poor edging (could be made deeper).


----------



## Bingy man (20 Aug 2022)

You probably won’t like my advice- tbh I wouldn’t want to hear this myself if in a similar situation however- imo there is no need for expensive products but repairs to several areas suggests that other areas will eventually break up and then you are back to square one . Remove any loose areas and dust , completely hoover / sweep floor , treat with a good sealer eg SBR and allow to dry , repeat the SBR if in any doubt-now for what you probably won’t want to hear -screed the complete floor area with a good strong mix 3-1 sharp sand /cement and bigger job than you anticipated but once done it’s done . Years ago there was a product called I believe ( granno flex) tiny bits of granite which when mixed with screed would be rock hard but I don’t think you can get these days . I give this advice because patching up poor concrete doesn’t usually last . I’m pretty sure there is a similar product available and I’ll have a look.btw pictures of the damage will help you get the best advice.


----------



## Bingy man (20 Aug 2022)

This was a product I was considering for a similar job but the customer went via the insurance route in the end but is similar to granno flex - hope it helps you out .


----------



## pe2dave (21 Aug 2022)

Bingy man said:


> You probably won’t like my advice- tbh I wouldn’t want to hear this myself if in a similar situation however- imo there is no need for expensive products but repairs to several areas suggests that other areas will eventually break up and then you are back to square one .


Agreed, but my case quite impractical. I attempted a cheap solution, and have garage paint adhering nicely to 98% of the floor. Secondly, have a look round your workshop, have you the space (and energy) to clear it out for 4 days? I don't. 
Thanks though.


----------



## niall Y (21 Aug 2022)

pe2dave said:


> Cheapskate builders, the concrete floor is crumbling. Sealed and painted, recurs where foot traffic.
> 
> How good are the 'expensive' Rust-oleum epoxy products? Worth it?
> Any idea how to get better adhesion to existing concrete please?
> I've about 10 small areas, with poor edging (could be made deeper).


----------



## pe2dave (21 Aug 2022)

@niall Y Yes, that's what I said...?


----------



## niall Y (21 Aug 2022)

OOPS......... sorry about that. A case of sausage fingers!

I have this selfsame problem. I can't blame the builders, however, as my son and I laid the screed. My ( at the time ) teenage, son was on the mixer ,Bless him - his heart wasn't in the job.

Screwfix used to sell an epoxy cement for patching.. You get a pack of washed sand and two-part epoxy to mix together.The maintenance staff where I used to work used it to make-good the factory floors when removing and replacing machinery. It's what I will use - when I get round to it.


----------



## Bingy man (21 Aug 2022)

pe2dave said:


> Agreed, but my case quite impractical. I attempted a cheap solution, and have garage paint adhering nicely to 98% of the floor. Secondly, have a look round your workshop, have you the space (and energy) to clear it out for 4 days? I don't.
> Thanks though.


I knew it would be difficult and possibly unworkable but it would be a complete and permanent repair- so if that’s the case cut out the offending areas as deep as possible and use either screed or fine aggregate to fill in, once dry use your paint to complete the job .


----------



## Sandyn (21 Aug 2022)

There's a possibility they over tamped concrete which was too wet, bringing too much water to the surface. It could just be the surface layer which is soft in some areas. Could you do a test area using one of these to remove the soft stuff on the top. It might give you more information about the state of the slab.


----------



## Limey Lurker (21 Aug 2022)

Cement needs to cure BEFORE it dries. If it was poured in weather like that of the past few weeks (at least, in the South), there is a good chance that it is, in places, un-cured. because it dried first. IIWY, I would wet, until it will absorb no more, a powdery area with water: there is a chance that the curing process will resume, and a day later the surface will be cohesive.


----------



## pe2dave (21 Aug 2022)

Youtube video makes sense (apart from dealing with the rusty rebar).
'Patching cement'? A good option? 
@niall Y I couldn't find epoxy cement on Screwfix. Anyone?


----------



## johna.clements (21 Aug 2022)

Limey Lurker said:


> Cement needs to cure BEFORE it dries. If it was poured in weather like that of the past few weeks (at least, in the South), there is a good chance that it is, in places, un-cured. because it dried first. IIWY, I would wet, until it will absorb no more, a powdery area with water: there is a chance that the curing process will resume, and a day later the surface will be cohesive.


For the highest strength you want the concrete to remain damp as long as possible. 

When mixing concrete you want it to have as low a water cement ratio to be workable, it starts to get difficult to place if the water is less than half the cement. If there is too much water the cement particles bond to the water rather than each other. On the surface the cement particles will be become dust because they are insufficiently bonded.

Once the concrete has set the the cement particles that have not encountered any water need some water to form a bond. You can cover the concrete to keep off the wind and sun and stop the surface drying too quickly and becoming dusty and weaker. There are also curing compounds that you can spray on concrete as soon as it is finished to keep the water in but covering it is as good. If you wet the set concrete you will add water that will find its way inside to the missed cement particles. Properly cured concrete will be in the order of 10% stronger more at the surface.

Painting concrete that has set and is visibly dry would help with curing. The pva would help to seal in the water so more water would go to the cement and would also add more water. The pva will rub off where trafficked and will come off if it is reactivated by water.


----------



## pe2dave (21 Aug 2022)

Purchased Everbuild Jetcem Rapid Repair Cement, I'll (try to remember) to let you know
what it's like after a year.


----------



## johna.clements (21 Aug 2022)

pe2dave said:


> Youtube video makes sense (apart from dealing with the rusty rebar).
> 'Patching cement'? A good option?
> @niall Y I couldn't find epoxy cement on Screwfix. Anyone?


The rusty rebar was the cause of the blown concrete, rust expands. I would have wire brushed the rebar, whilst wearing eye protection, to remove most of the rust. The rebar does not have enough cover to protect it from water.

The feather edge (sloping edge) to the hole may not be a good idea. Where the material runs out to nothing the sand filler in the mix end up exposed and above the surface. The cement mixture will not be able to surround it and bond properly to the entire particle and so be weaker. It would be better to cut a vertical edge, maybe 5mm or so for this product (what ever the instructions are), so that the filler can be completely surrounded.


----------



## pe2dave (21 Aug 2022)

johna.clements said:


> The feather edge (sloping edge) to the hole may not be a good idea. Where the material runs out to nothing the sand filler in the mix end up exposed and above the surface. The cement mixture will not be able to surround it and bond properly to the entire particle and so be weaker. It would be better to cut a vertical edge, maybe 5mm or so for this product (what ever the instructions are), so that the filler can be completely surrounded.


Good point. Angle grinder, diamond edge.


----------



## niall Y (21 Aug 2022)

pe2dave said:


> Youtube video makes sense (apart from dealing with the rusty rebar).
> 'Patching cement'? A good option?
> @niall Y I couldn't find epoxy cement on Screwfix. Anyone?


Ah yes.... they seem to have stopped selling that, It was good stuff. I glued and repaired a lot of York stone treads with it a few years back.
Nearest equivalent I've found is Resincoat Deep Fill Epoxy Mortar - though I note you have gone for a rapid set cement
. I'd be interested to see how you get on with that as it is a lot cheaper option.


----------



## pe2dave (21 Aug 2022)

niall Y said:


> - though I note you have gone for a rapid set cement
> . I'd be interested to see how you get on with that as it is a lot cheaper option.


<grin/> I'm not a Yorkshireman for nothing!


----------



## clogs (21 Aug 2022)

A German company thats based in France "Weber" but worldwide....
www.ukweber make products just for that job as well as screed and cement plaster's....Render.....
they have an excellent websight and are happy to talk over the phone....
I'm just a happy customer....


----------



## pe2dave (21 Aug 2022)

clogs said:


> A German company thats based in France "Weber" but worldwide....
> www.ukweber make products just for that job as well as screed and cement plaster's....Render.....
> they have an excellent websight and are happy to talk over the phone....
> I'm just a happy customer....


Bad link @clogs ?


----------



## Sideways (21 Aug 2022)

If you need to fill holes, the lads in the factory always used car body filler - isopon or whatever - to patch holes when castings got dropped on concrete. It sticks better and doesn't disintegrate the way small / thin patches of concrete do.


----------



## MikeJhn (22 Aug 2022)

I am an ex Chartered Structural Engineer and came across this problem on many many occasions, the usual reason for the surface of concrete breaking up is over watering the mix to try and make it flow when laying, usually the lorry driver's suggestion to speed up the unloading, or an amateur builder not knowing the finer details of concrete/water ratio's , what happens is the aggregate sinks to the bottom of the slab leaving a weak sand cement surface called laitance, patching with anything will not work as the underlying problem will remain, only cure is to chop out the top layer of concrete and re-lay a screed of some kind, sand and cement cheap, but labour intensive, epoxy expensive, or remove the slab and start again.

Epoxies and not Polyester resins as they shrink when curing.


----------



## pe2dave (22 Aug 2022)

Thanks @MikeJhn - quite likely, but too much work / cost for me I'm afraid. 
Patching it is.


----------



## MikeJhn (22 Aug 2022)

In that case make sure you get down to a firm base and don't feather edge the patch, dig down to form a drop edge.


----------



## gmgmgm (22 Aug 2022)

I had a crumbly concrete floor. I used the self-levelling latex floor compound from Screwfix (with associated primer). Very easy to use, fine for foot traffic (probably not for vehicles). It doesn't "move around", it doesn't feel rubbery when it's only a few mm thick.


----------



## Housey210 (22 Aug 2022)

I had the same problem and I did use an expoxy resin. Perfect, sealed the floor and twenty years on as good as day it was poured. Swept away all the loose stuff and followed instructions on tin. Unsure of the brand but the kit was simple, pull the plug on small tin and let that flow into the large mix, pour and brush. Slab was cast in three with two expansion strips so I went to that, 2.5 x 2mtrs, leaving a week between for area to harden before doing next. Poured into the deepest void first to level out then all over. Well impressed with product and very tough stuff. White, my choice as that helped bouncing the light around.


----------



## johna.clements (22 Aug 2022)

gmgmgm said:


> I had a crumbly concrete floor. I used the self-levelling latex floor compound from Screwfix (with associated primer). Very easy to use, fine for foot traffic (probably not for vehicles). It doesn't "move around", it doesn't feel rubbery when it's only a few mm thick.


The latex self leveling compounds are normally used under something like carpet tiles.


----------



## MikeJhn (22 Aug 2022)

Chemical Building Products (CBP) used to market a liquid call Lithurin and yes it is what is sounds like it was a chemical hardener that reacted with the lime in the concrete, it was found by accident when inspecting cow sheds that never had a problem with the top surface of the milking sheds dusting, use your imagination. LOL


----------



## johna.clements (22 Aug 2022)

Milk does not do concrete any good.


----------



## pe2dave (22 Aug 2022)

johna.clements said:


> Milk does not do concrete any good.


Working in a byre for 4 years, concrete stands up to cows output pretty well, all 3.


----------



## pe2dave (23 Aug 2022)

A start. Cut clean edges, diamond edge blade.
Started (and stopped) with the grinding cup (too much dust, with mask and goggles).
Finished the rest with bolster and lump hammer.
Cleaned up (vac and compressed air).
Wetted, painted with a thin mix of the repair stuff. 
Images: Prior to painting. A 'settlement' crack, cleaned out ready for filling. 

Lesson: Don't use garage floor paint on ill prepared concrete!


----------



## johna.clements (23 Aug 2022)

pe2dave said:


> A 'settlement' crack, cleaned out ready for filling.


The crack is probably from contraction of the slab shortly after it was poured. Concrete tends to contract as it cures.
The slab will be moving slightly with temperature so the crack may open up again. But it will not be a big crack judging by how it has not cracked the paint to the left of the patch.


----------



## bp122 (23 Aug 2022)

Hey Dave

Not playing my own trumpet but this is a 1 day solution if you start early.

Thread 'Garage floor levelling' Garage floor levelling

In any case, keep us posted.


----------



## pe2dave (24 Aug 2022)

bp122 said:


> Hey Dave
> 
> Not playing my own trumpet but this is a 1 day solution if you start early.
> 
> ...


Yes, I saw that. Sadly I'd painted the floor, so a simple covering wouldn't do, even if I was able to clear out my 'bombsite' beforehand!
Hope you've good adhesion, old to new stuff.


----------



## bp122 (24 Aug 2022)

pe2dave said:


> Yes, I saw that. Sadly I'd painted the floor, so a simple covering wouldn't do, even if I was able to clear out my 'bombsite' beforehand!
> Hope you've good adhesion, old to new stuff.


Ah, understood.


----------



## pe2dave (27 Aug 2022)

pe2dave said:


> Purchased Everbuild Jetcem Rapid Repair Cement, I'll (try to remember) to let you know
> what it's like after a year.


Having used it, they ought to emphasise the 'rapid' bit. Says ten minutes? Felt more like ten seconds and it was going off. I'd say, not for a diy'er where open time (is that the right term?) is more important. I'm envious of plasterers that can lay it on and two sweeps for a good surface!
Now done (looks aweful). 
Next step, 4:1 water:cementone stuff, then more garage floor paint. Despite sucking up water like a .... I'm going to leave it a couple of days to dry.


----------



## baldkev (27 Aug 2022)

How about epoxy floor paint?


----------



## eribaMotters (27 Aug 2022)

Although not exactly the same situation, I did experience issues with the concrete floor of my last workshop. It was laid by a team of cowboys. The mix was blind, the surface porous and damp. It also crumbled and I could not paint it effectively. Oh, it was also not flat. Otherwise it was perfect. [Joke]
Luck was on my side in that I could go over the top. I removed all loose paint and applied a bitumen type paint, two coats with a sand binding to the second coat. I bedded a row of 18" paving slabs down the long edges and centre of the 8 x 5m surface and left to set. This allowed me to get a level surface. I then screed between the rows with a 3 to 1 sharp sand and cement mix. After 6/8 weeks I painted the floor with Leyland oil based floor paint.
Apart from the heavy traffic loads of 350kg machines on castors the floor surface stood up well. I spot painted a few odd areas each year and repainted after 4 or 5 years.

Colin


----------



## Bingy man (27 Aug 2022)

pe2dave said:


> Having used it, they ought to emphasise the 'rapid' bit. Says ten minutes? Felt more like ten seconds and it was going off. I'd say, not for a diy'er where open time (is that the right term?) is more important. I'm envious of plasterers that can lay it on and two sweeps for a good surface!
> Now done (looks aweful).
> Next step, 4:1 water:cementone stuff, then more garage floor paint. Despite sucking up water like a .... I'm going to leave it a couple of days to dry.


All comes down to the temperature when you start . If it’s a really hot day you don’t get long before it starts setting.


----------



## pe2dave (28 Aug 2022)

baldkev said:


> How about epoxy floor paint?


Sorry I've bought paint now. Advantage of epoxy paint please?
The old paint just flakes away from the crumbling concrete. Trying 
* Remove paint
* Wire brush down to firmer stuff.
* Cementone at about 4:1
* new paint.
See if that will adhere.


----------



## pe2dave (28 Aug 2022)

Bingy man said:


> All comes down to the temperature when you start . If it’s a really hot day you don’t get long before it starts setting.


~20. My experience: floor needs to be soaking wet, all around edges too. Mix very sloppy or it just dries almost immediately. 
(For me) 'orrible stuff to work with.


----------



## Seascaper (28 Aug 2022)

pe2dave said:


> Cheapskate builders, the concrete floor is crumbling. Sealed and painted, recurs where foot traffic.
> 
> How good are the 'expensive' Rust-oleum epoxy products? Worth it?
> Any idea how to get better adhesion to existing concrete please?
> I've about 10 small areas, with poor edging (could be made deeper).


Hello,
One can get a very could product used for levelling floors, comes in a powerder for, rather like cement in appearance but you mix up to a cream consistency in a wheelbarrow or bucket then pour onto your surface. It soon dries to perfect flat finish and can be used on concrete floors. It is called something like floor levelling compound and one DS an use it over a large or small area.
Regards


----------



## baldkev (28 Aug 2022)

Hi dave, the advantage of the epoxy paint is its strength, as it wont wear through easily, so as long as it bonds to the substrate,it should help hold things together a bit. It wouldn't cure any weak crumbly areas, but it might be enough to hold it the top surface together. Is there any disadvantage to overboarding with 12mm ply? If your problems persist,you could cover the exposed floor ?

Latex can be a fairly hard finish and i have done a floor in a garage turned into an art studio with latex as the finished floor. Its holding up well after a couple of years
Edit: I'd imagine the weight of a cast machine would still do damage.


----------



## pe2dave (28 Aug 2022)

baldkev said:


> Hi dave, the advantage of the epoxy paint is its strength, as it wont wear through easily, so as long as it bonds to the substrate,it should help hold things together a bit. It wouldn't cure any weak crumbly areas, but it might be enough to hold it the top surface together. Is there any disadvantage to overboarding with 12mm ply? If your problems persist,you could cover the exposed floor ?
> 
> Latex can be a fairly hard finish and i have done a floor in a garage turned into an art studio with latex as the finished floor. Its holding up well after a couple of years
> Edit: I'd imagine the weight of a cast machine would still do damage.


"as long as it bonds to the substrate" I think that's the issue Kev? The paint 'isn't' bonding.

A 12mm ply floor? Would it stay in place? Stay flat? 
a) I suspect not.
b) I can't empty the workshop, lay a floor and reload it. 

If I could, I guess a professional fix, ie. scrub the paint, clear down to 'firm' concrete, overpour with self levelling or something would be the answer. 

Sadly I'm too old to even consider that.


----------



## baldkev (28 Aug 2022)

Well you could pour a 10mm layer of epoxy over the exposed area, just put a little barrier around the edges you cant go under, sealed with silicone. That'd 'probably' be thick enough to resist breaking and it'll be fully supported by the weaker stuff underneath.

As for ply, like i said, itd be the exposed floor areas. You simply fix it down, probably turbo screws. 
One thing that hasnt been asked is if its concrete or cement screed? If it had lumps of aggregate, its concrete, if sandy, its just a screed and the concrete should be under the screed of 2 to 3"


----------



## pe2dave (28 Aug 2022)

baldkev said:


> Well you could pour a 10mm layer of epoxy over the exposed area, just put a little barrier around the edges you cant go under, sealed with silicone. That'd 'probably' be thick enough to resist breaking and it'll be fully supported by the weaker stuff underneath.
> 
> As for ply, like i said, itd be the exposed floor areas. You simply fix it down, probably turbo screws.
> One thing that hasnt been asked is if its concrete or cement screed? If it had lumps of aggregate, its concrete, if sandy, its just a screed and the concrete should be under the screed of 2 to 3"


That would be proud of the existing concrete Kev?

Screed, since it has lumps of aggregate (made it hard work with the 'grinder' on angle grinder). 

I'm of an age where a patch will do, no more 'big jobs'


----------



## baldkev (28 Aug 2022)

Yes it would be on top of the concrete, but fast and easy.....

Hope you get it sorted whichever route you go


----------



## johna.clements (28 Aug 2022)

My slab has a 50mm thick concrete screed, which is about as thin as you can go with concrete with 20mm aggregate. If I had used sand and cement for the screed I could have halved that.


----------



## Woodwork Journey Dean (28 Aug 2022)

My garage/workshop floor concrete was horrific, my cheap and easy solution was to get a load of thick second hand laminate floor boards for cheap or free on marketplace, throw down a little underlay on the really bad bits, and when I had enough cover 90% of my floor with them. Especially with benches and machines on then they don’t really move much.
It’s been fine for a good 8 months I would think


----------



## MikeJhn (29 Aug 2022)

Fundamental difference between Epoxy and Polyester resins is the curing of the Polymer chain, Epoxy has a Catalyst that binds the chains to each other and leaves itself behind holding the chain together, hence the need to mix correctly otherwise bubbles of Catalyst can be left behind and the cure will not be complete and the strength will be compromised, epoxies will not cure well when water is present.

Polyester resins have the same type of Polymer chain but the Catalyst is an exciter that draws the chain together, and moves on, hence the small amount of Catalyst required and the shrinkage experienced with them, the heat generated and their tolerance to water. but they are much weaker that Epoxies. They will also melt Polystyrene and the like, so test before use.

Both Epoxies and Polyester Resins are only as good as the surface they are being applied too and any loose material must be removed and a firm surface found or its a waste of time and monies.


----------



## MikeJhn (29 Aug 2022)

One thought, if you have a compressor, hire or buy a needle gun and use that too break up the loose areas and use Epoxy to make good the floor, or a Polyester if it is only subject to foot traffic and only a small area and not too deep, the heat generated by a Polyester can be substantial and the shrinkage can also be a problem with the surface cracking, Polyesters have their place, but not in construction that is meant to last and of an exposed area.


----------



## pe2dave (29 Aug 2022)

MikeJhn said:


> One thought, if you have a compressor, hire or buy a needle gun and use that too break up the loose areas and use Epoxy to make good the floor, or a Polyester if it is only subject to foot traffic and only a small area and not too deep, the heat generated by a Polyester can be substantial and the shrinkage can also be a problem with the surface cracking, Polyesters have their place, but not in construction that is meant to last and of an exposed area.


Good idea... except using a grinding disk the dust!!!
Having seen air needle guns at work on a ships deck, they are very effective! Because of the poor
state of the concrete, I've been peeling it off (mostly) with a paint scraper!
I have a small compressor, guessing a needle gun might be high air use? mc mart, 4cfm
I'll have a look for future use, thanks Mike.


----------



## pe2dave (30 Aug 2022)

MikeJhn said:


> One thought, if you have a compressor, hire or buy a needle gun and use that too break up the loose areas and use Epoxy to make good the floor, or a Polyester if it is only subject to foot traffic and only a small area and not too deep, the heat generated by a Polyester can be substantial and the shrinkage can also be a problem with the surface cracking, Polyesters have their place, but not in construction that is meant to last and of an exposed area.


Lessons learned:
Starting point, poor concrete floor crumbling, 25 years old, existing floor paint flaking in spots, some larger areas with heavy footfall / usage.
(obvious?). Clean off back to good baseline (remove flaky paint, dust / chippings). [1]
a) Apply bonding - cementone seems to work. repaint, or if bad apply [?????? *[2]], then repaint.
b) as above, try above: Epoxy or (what is) Polyester (- not a shirt?) 'filler' to level the surface??? tbc
[1] I'm looking at @MikeJhn needle gun. Less dust than the 'grinder' head suggested. 
[2] What to 'paint' a decent base/concrete with? I'm thinking almost liquid cement/ mortar? What are the options where I need to build up say 2-5mm?

Currently waiting for floor paint to dry, ready for second coat.


----------



## valvebounce (30 Aug 2022)

I would cut the holes about 25mm deep with square sides.Use blocklaying grit (fine)
with just cement,if you are feeling ambitious,use a 3/1 water mix with waterproof pva.
Bostic make one for floor screeding,but a decent waterproof pva will work.(normal pva melts with dampness.)Avoid feathering the holes,it will snap at the edges and you will be back to square one.


----------



## valvebounce (30 Aug 2022)

I would cut the holes about 25mm deep with square sides.Use blocklaying grit (fine)
with just cement,if you are feeling ambitious,use a 3/1 water mix with waterproof pva.
Bostic make one for floor screeding,but a decent waterproof pva will work.(normal pva melts with dampness.)Avoid feathering the holes,it will snap at the edges and you will be back to square one.


----------



## pe2dave (30 Aug 2022)

No way @valvebounce - It's solid within 2mm of the surface.
Point taken about feathered edges, hence my questions.
I'm using cementone, which is pva for bonding.


----------



## baldkev (30 Aug 2022)

pe2dave said:


> No way @valvebounce - It's solid within 2mm of the surface.


In that case, wouldnt a floor scraper be an idea? Like a big mutt.

Yep needle guns need loads of cfm......


----------



## MikeJhn (31 Aug 2022)

pe2dave said:


> b) as above, try above: Epoxy or (what is) Polyester (- not a shirt?) 'filler' to level the surface??? tbc


Explained the difference in post 49 above, you can tell the difference by the amount of catalyst required, Epoxy has equal parts of resin and catalyst and has to be well mixed, Polyester needs a very small amount of catalyst and is not so critical on the mixing.


----------



## MikeJhn (31 Aug 2022)

3 cfm @ 90 psi: Air Needle Scaler | SA51 | 1 year Warranty | Sealey


----------



## pe2dave (31 Aug 2022)

MikeJhn said:


> Explained the difference in post 49 above, you can tell the difference by the amount of catalyst required, Epoxy has equal parts of resin and catalyst and has to be well mixed, Polyester needs a very small amount of catalyst and is not so critical on the mixing.


(for me) you explained it as to a chemist! How might a builder describe them please?
Any trade names please Mike?
And (guessing your preference for epoxy) - suitability for a 'thin' layer repair? say 2-3mm?


----------



## MikeJhn (1 Sep 2022)

Think of Araldite for Epoxy and Davids Isopon for Polyester, giving any trade names for this application is not possible, as I am out of touch with the latest products.

Trying to repair 2-3mm is like trying to use a sticking plaster to cover a hemorrhage it will not work.


----------

