# Tips and Wrinkles



## jimi43 (1 Jun 2011)

With the ever-growing membership, many of whom are relative newcomers to woodworking...I thought it might be fun to start a thread which could be added to in which we all post a simple tip or wrinkle which we have come across and find useful in our woodworking.

This way...newbies and maybe not so newbies will pick up great helpful ideas...all in one place.

I will start with a favourite one of mine...

*When thicknessing a piece of stock.....bevel the edges to the line you wish to thickness to and then commence planing the top. This keeps you flat and in line and allows you to determine when the correct thickness is reached right across the stock...when the bevel disappears.*

Next person add their favourite and so on....

Cheers

Jim


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## bosshogg (1 Jun 2011)

I think this is a great idea Jim, here's mine...when putting in screws, particularly large ones, have a bit of soap handy...rub the screws over the soap, you'll be amazed how easily they go in. the soap bar is also handy for rubbing on the soles of planes (wooden or metal) to make them glide over wood...bosshogg



> You can't solve a problem using the same thinking that created it...A.E.


 (hammer)


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## DOOGYREV (1 Jun 2011)

Measure Twice, Cut Once.

Thought I would start at the begining, with the first tip I ever learnt.


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## Bremner (2 Jun 2011)

Here's mine....

When you want an inside measurement, say the bottom of a draw a tape measure can be inaccurate because you have to bend the tape into the angle. Use a steel rule measure from one side and Mark a nice round number I.e. 200mm, now measure from the other side to your Mark and add them together, and there you have an accurate inside measurement.


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## AndyT (2 Jun 2011)

Scribble on the base of your plane with a candle end. It makes a huge difference; everything slides nicely and you have better control. It doesn't mar the finish either.


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## Benchwayze (2 Jun 2011)

My tip is simple. 

*Use a rule as little as possible.* (Probably just to make up your Rod/story-pole/story-stick, whatever you like to call it.) 

Any measurements (Say of a drawer front) wherever possible, I take from comparison with the job itself. 

I always found it easier that way. 

John


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## goldeneyedmonkey (2 Jun 2011)

Ordinary household candle (white one) is handy for getting that perfect sliding action on drawers with wooden runners. Or any other unseen wood to wood contact.

And put as many 'french cleat' batons on your workshop walls to aid storage. 

-I know that's 2, but they weren't very good ones, so I'm counting it as 2 halves 

Cheers _Dan.


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## goldeneyedmonkey (2 Jun 2011)

Benchwayze":ovw7ckzn said:


> My tip is simple.
> 
> *Use a rule as little as possible.* (Probably just to make up your Rod/story-pole/story-stick, whatever you like to call it.)
> 
> ...



- am I right in thinking this is called relative dimensioning? I try and do this as much as possible. _Dan.


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## Anonymous (2 Jun 2011)

my tip

when using a plane to smooth the stock, always use your thumb to press the shavings into the mouth of the plane to stop tear out.


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## Benchwayze (2 Jun 2011)

goldeneyedmonkey":3gwaa6df said:


> Benchwayze":3gwaa6df said:
> 
> 
> > My tip is simple.
> ...



yes Dan... Good name for it! 
Thanks 
John


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## Dibs-h (2 Jun 2011)

DOOGYREV":107pmd6c said:


> Measure Twice, Cut Once.



Unless you forgot what it was in which case measure a few more times in my case. :mrgreen:


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## flounder (2 Jun 2011)

When I was an apprentice using lathes etc, the one piece of advice my mentor gave me that has always stuck with me is 'Never put your finger where you wouldn't put your cock'! I still have all ten fingers thanks to that as it always pops up in my head whenever I am tempted to do something silly!


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## gasman (2 Jun 2011)

I love that one Flounder!
How about these 2:
1. If you make a mistake / are having a bad day / have an apparently insoluble problem - then leave the shed for a while go and do something else. Most of the problem solving I come up with happens out of the workshop
2. Keep superglue to hand - it is the best way to treat minor cuts
Mark


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## DOOGYREV (2 Jun 2011)

To get those old rusty stubbon screws out, tighten them first then they are easier to unscrew. 

To get loose screws tight again, use a scrap chunk of timber and a chisel to make some rough little pointy wedge type splinters (don't know if there is an actual word for them) then knock them into the screw holes with the flat side of your chisel and cut them flush, and voila tight screws again.


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## Lee J (2 Jun 2011)

1. Never leave the chuck key in the lathe after tighten up the chuck, I have a dent in a filing cabinet, thats across the room, to prove this is a bad thing to do.


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## woodbloke (2 Jun 2011)

For me there's only one thing to remember...producing quality work is as much about thinking your way through as the application of the tools. It's just that I wish I could think a bit more :mrgreen: (hammer) - Rob


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## goldeneyedmonkey (2 Jun 2011)

DOOGYREV":21p22kij said:


> To get those old rusty stubbon screws out, tighten them first then they are easier to unscrew.



-this applies to old rusty nails also, give them a knock with the hammer and then claw them out. 10x easier.


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## Kalimna (2 Jun 2011)

Not sure if this might be a little basic, but always ensure that you have good lighting upon the workbench.... And if you're working with powertools/machinery, make sure there is someone else who knows you're there, just in case...

Adam S


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## Benchwayze (2 Jun 2011)

DOOGYREV":1fqvlaf4 said:


> To get those old rusty stubbon screws out, tighten them first then they are easier to unscrew.
> 
> To get loose screws tight again, use a scrap chunk of timber and a chisel to make some rough little pointy wedge type splinters (don't know if there is an actual word for them) then knock them into the screw holes with the flat side of your chisel and cut them flush, and voila tight screws again.



yes Doogy, 

I call them matchstalks! :lol: :lol: :lol: 

John :wink:


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## Anonymous (2 Jun 2011)

DOOGYREV":1vb7lzhd said:


> To get those old rusty stubbon screws out, tighten them first then they are easier to unscrew.
> 
> To get loose screws tight again, use a scrap chunk of timber and a chisel to make some rough little pointy wedge type splinters (don't know if there is an actual word for them) then knock them into the screw holes with the flat side of your chisel and cut them flush, and voila tight screws again.



just want to elaborate on this one - match sticks are perfect


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## Anonymous (2 Jun 2011)

Benchwayze":3jw24l02 said:


> DOOGYREV":3jw24l02 said:
> 
> 
> > To get those old rusty stubbon screws out, tighten them first then they are easier to unscrew.
> ...



doh didn't see this one


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## Benchwayze (2 Jun 2011)

The tip doesn't work so well in chipboard doors though, as some hinges in my workshop will attest. Hence new cupboards! 

John


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## No skills (2 Jun 2011)

Not sure this is a tip for most but here goes..

Tape measures.

Keep the same one through the entire job you are doing (put it on your belt or in your pocket), dont have one at the mitre saw - one on the bench etc etc 
This will give you consistancy with your measurements, if the tape gets damaged at the end you will be more likely to notice it before you miss measure something and waste material - if you dont notice the damage at least you have a good chance of keeping the 'correct' measurement and cutting to the 'correct' size.
Also if like me you use cheap tape measures at work you might notice that one chinese factorys interpretation of 10mm is a bit different from anothers, thus leading to wrong cutting sizes again.

hth


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## spannermonkey (2 Jun 2011)

Make sure u dont strip your electric drill down cos it wont work after you have turned off the electric, to do a "safe job" or dont go out and buy a £150 drill cos ur cheap one did not work after three uses (same scenario as above) yes I t was me!


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## DOOGYREV (2 Jun 2011)

Cheers John, Matchstalks it is from now on, although Matchsticks would work too Mark.

Heres another one I mentioned it before in another topic, but thought it was worth noting here too.

When routing or sanding mdf, put another piece of mdf on your bench, and spray a fine mist of water on it, a couple of squirts will do, and the piece your working on will stay put and not move about.

Whist on the subject of the fine water mist, its primary purpose is to help take the dust out of the air, usually once I have rubbed down and prior to varnishing or painting, I spray mist everywhere it is absorbed into the dust an becomes too heavy to stay airborne so falls to the floor, this helps alot if you dont have a seperate painting/varnishing area.


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## Richard S (2 Jun 2011)

Never eat yellow snow! :-" :-" :-"


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## Benchwayze (3 Jun 2011)

That's the trouble with snow. 
You know where it comes from, but you never know where it's been. I never eat snow, whatever colour it is... 8) 

Someone mentioned using one rule throughout a job.. I agree.

Also, invest in a quality engineers' combination square. They are indispensable even to us woodies. Something like a Starrett fits the bill. Expensive, but they are perfect for calibrating every other 'squaring and measuring' device you have, and for setting up the saw-table.

You won't be sorry. :wink: 

John


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## woodbloke (3 Jun 2011)

Benchwayze":38m6hhru said:


> Also, invest in a quality engineers' combination square. They are indispensable even to us woodies. Something like a Starrett fits the bill. Expensive, but they are perfect for calibrating every other 'squaring and measuring' device you have, and for setting up the saw-table.
> 
> You won't be sorry. :wink:
> 
> John


I think you're right about the Starrett...I tempted to get hold of one of the small ones from CHT, but I have a 300mm R&C combo square as well, which is pretty accurate - Rob


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## Benchwayze (3 Jun 2011)

woodbloke":34v0w4ow said:


> Benchwayze":34v0w4ow said:
> 
> 
> > Also, invest in a quality engineers' combination square. They are indispensable even to us woodies. Something like a Starrett fits the bill. Expensive, but they are perfect for calibrating every other 'squaring and measuring' device you have, and for setting up the saw-table.
> ...



Hi Rob., 

I am waiting to add the 150mm one too, but my 300mm is great. The protractor-head too is a boon.
I checked my old Rabone against the Starrett. Aside from the obvious differences in Imperial measures, the Rabone is spot on, even after 10 years! But it's always good to have a spare. :tool: :tool: :tool: 

John


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## miles_hot (3 Jun 2011)

Plane shavings make excelletn shims for when you've got a bit to enthusiatice cutting housings for things like door hinges


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## Orcamesh (3 Jun 2011)

Couple of things I think are important which I learned from one my course tutors many years ago is to always and only use engineers squares for marking out your work, this includes a 90 and a 45 degree type. The woodworking try square can and usually is not square when compared to an engineers (calibrated within a specified tolerance) square. This will increase accuracy of your marking out.

Secondly, he also taught me to use a single bevelled marking knife (e.g. a Japanese Kiridashi) with the flat side of the blade against the square and the bevelled side of the blade on the "waste side". This will make a nice perpendicular cut into the wood grain, with the bevelled part of the cut left only on the waste side where it doesn't matter. It also improves the accuracy of your cut line/marking out.

HTH :?: 
Steve


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## AndyT (3 Jun 2011)

This really isn't an excuse to go shopping, but I'd say:

*Have as much choice of tools as you can.*

For a lot of us on this forum, we like making furniture, and aspire to do quality work. But we also need to do ordinary household diy. 

So we need proper tools for the quality stuff, and also more ordinary ones for the rest. It worries me when I hear of someone getting rid of their old chisels/planes/saws to make way for an upgrade to their choice of LN/LV/Clifton etc.

What will they use to plane down the edge of a door covered in paint, chip out old putty or pry off the beading round a sash window?


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## Benchwayze (3 Jun 2011)

Andy, 

Believe me I am in full agreement here. Yes, I have bought one or two of the modern high-end planes and chisels. Yet I still have my old faithfuls. Even some of those I don't want to use for rough work. That's why I buy old bangers or cheapo versions of any tool, when I think they will be useful. If I know a tool will hold an edge only for as long as it takes to do rough jobs, then I'll use it, because it doesn't matter if I chip a piece out of the business end! 


Which answers the complaints/queries we used to get from some forumites, about the 'need' for so many tools. 

John :wink:


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## bosshogg (3 Jun 2011)

In framing joinery, hammering the edge of the nail-head into the wood where the nail is to go will prevent splitting nine times out of ten.
Also to prevent splitting on thinner woods with brads, panel pins and the like flattening the point of the pin (normally on the exposed top of the vice) means that as the head of the pin presents less of a wedge effect on the grain and therefore is less likely to split...bosshogg 8) 


> You can't help a man who doesn't tell you what he wants


 (homer)


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## motownmartin (4 Jun 2011)

*Drum Sander Loadings*

I posted this in the jigs and tips section as well.

The Drum Sander is a great bit of kit but the price of the loadings/abrasives is ridiculous, £10 a time or £35 for 25 metres, I have the Jet 16 - 32, and these are not made with the woven material, I make quite a few games boards which need to be sanded flat but the paper loadings don't last long.

Here's a tip, buy the cheaper 3" wide sanding rolls, only about £15 for 50 Metres and a roll of plasterers scrim tape and stick it on the paper like the photo






I do 2 strips at a time because the scrim tape is only 2" then cut with a Stanley Knife, and you have a strong Drum sander loading for a fraction of the price.

Believe me it works a treat.


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## jimi43 (4 Jun 2011)

That's fantastic Martin! =D> 

Jim


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## Eric The Viking (4 Jun 2011)

When glueing up frames, I space my sash cramps with 6mm studding (threaded rod), nuts and penny washers, through the holes I'm not using. This works fine with Record (expensive) ones, but I was annoyed to discover that, while my el-cheapo 'Silverline' ones have the holes spaced in the bars, the bars themselves were cut off at a random points, so the holes aren't in the same place on different clamps! Infuriating, especially as they're otherwise pretty much as good as Record ones.

At least, if you're using a good set of clamps, this lets you get them exactly positioned and stops them falling over at a crucial moment. I store the studding with the clamps so it's handy.

6mm studding nuts and washers are dirt cheap from Screwfix or Toolstation, etc.

E.


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## Eric The Viking (4 Jun 2011)

And another one, though it's DIY really. 

If you have to fit things to walls, it's a pain getting rid of the gritty dust from drilling the rawlplug holes, but a dust sheet usually doesn't catch it. 

I keep used, large envelopes for this: stick the flap of the envelope against the wall with masking tape, just below where you are going to drill the hole, so that the envelope is open, facing out from the wall. Most of the muck then falls into the envelope and not into the carpet.


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## Eric The Viking (4 Jun 2011)

And one more: 

You can't beat diamond screwdriving bits in powered screwdrivers - better grip and less damage to the screws. Worth every penny, IMHO. 

Enough already...

E.


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## brianhabby (4 Jun 2011)

To stop my sash clamps from falling over I make a cut in a scrap and rest the clamps in like so:






I know I've posted this before but it was a few years ago

regards

Brian


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## DOOGYREV (6 Jun 2011)

Heres another one 

In the work shop, if you inadvertently dent a piece of timber your working on, just put a little water on the dent (or spit on it) then leave it, the wood will absorb the water and swell allowing you to sand smooth again, and hey presto the dent is gone. 

On a finished piece or a solid wood floor for example, you want to use some fine grit sand paper and just where the dent is rub the varnish down just enough to let moisture get to the wood, then wet some tissue so it is soaking and put the blob of wet tissue on the dent, for about 24 hours, let it dry, and sand smooth if needed, and re varnish. 

You would be suprised how well this works even on large dents


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## Pvt_Ryan (6 Jun 2011)

Eric The Viking":2ll52v52 said:


> And another one, though it's DIY really.
> 
> If you have to fit things to walls, it's a pain getting rid of the gritty dust from drilling the rawlplug holes, but a dust sheet usually doesn't catch it.
> 
> I keep used, large envelopes for this: stick the flap of the envelope against the wall with masking tape, just below where you are going to drill the hole, so that the envelope is open, facing out from the wall. Most of the muck then falls into the envelope and not into the carpet.



One better than this, Using several pieces of masking tape stick the end of a vacum cleaner's hose under the hole and turn it on. if the tape isn't holding place something under the bend of the hose to take the weight and /or jam it against the wall.


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## Anonymous (6 Jun 2011)

DOOGYREV":3ck0ys3l said:


> Heres another one
> 
> In the work shop, if you inadvertently dent a piece of timber your working on, just put a little water on the dent (or spit on it) then leave it, the wood will absorb the water and swell allowing you to sand smooth again, and hey presto the dent is gone.
> 
> ...



The quicker version to this is, using a damp cloth and a hot iron. Works wonders - sorry to jump in on this great tip.


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## barkwindjammer (6 Jun 2011)

Great topic btw Jimi

A very basic offering from me, as this is aimed at 'noobs'

when cutting a piece of wood, either a batton (4x2, 2x2 etc) or a board

the baton - mark all the way round the piece-then make cuts all the way round too

the board - start your cut at one end-then make a 'start' cut at the other end -and continue- on the waste side obviously

both these methods will prevent having a cut piece of wood with a 7 and a half inch 'splinter' attached


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## Froggy (6 Jun 2011)

jimi43":2axp2h6h said:


> *When thicknessing a piece of stock.....bevel the edges to the line you wish to thickness to and then commence planing the top. This keeps you flat and in line and allows you to determine when the correct thickness is reached right across the stock...when the bevel disappears.[/b
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Jim*


*
I've just finished hand planing a kite tread for a staircase from 60mm thick oak down to 35mm (don't ask why - lots of different reasons!!) and your tip would've been great for me then as I was constanting measuring all round for the thickness. :roll: Ah well I know for next time. Good tip, and dam good thread Jim.

I'll try to think of one tonight and post tomorrow.*


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## Benchwayze (6 Jun 2011)

If you are going to use pine Match-board, or ship-lap outside, and it is to be painted or treated, do the tongues and grooves before you assemble. Then if the boards open at all, as they probably will, you won't see chinks of white timber. 

In years gone by, exterior doors used wedged, through-M&Ts and exterior grade paint was used as a glue. We probably don't need that today, but if you are a traditionalist, you might like to try it. 

If you louse up a lap dovetail pin, don't fret over it. Cut the pin away entirely, and then splice in a small section of the same timber, into the joint, about an inch below the bottom of the socket. When the glue is dry clean-up, and re-cut the socket. (With a bit more care! :mrgreen: ) 

John :wink:


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## Froggy (7 Jun 2011)

Ok - today I was making some newel posts for outdoor decking. A couple of the posts had some unsightly splits in them. So I sanded the posts and then filled the splits with glue. Then I took the sawdust from the sanding and sprinkled it on the glue, then lightly rubbed it in. Tomorrow I will sand again and the split will be stronger and nolonger unsightly! Simples!


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## mack9110000 (7 Jun 2011)

miles_hot":3g29x7nl said:


> Plane shavings make excelletn shims for when you've got a bit to enthusiatice cutting housings for things like door hinges




So does a pack of playing cards.  
mack


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## Ateallthepies (7 Jun 2011)

Where ever possible wear a dust mask and safety glasses when needed.

Last time I checked you only get one pair each of lungs and eyes and both are quite useful.

Steve.


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## DOOGYREV (7 Jun 2011)

mack9110000":36efeoak said:


> miles_hot":36efeoak said:
> 
> 
> > Plane shavings make excelletn shims for when you've got a bit to enthusiatice cutting housings for things like door hinges
> ...



I have always used the card from the packet the hinges came in.


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## Anonymous (7 Jun 2011)

DOOGYREV":1cy839zd said:


> mack9110000":1cy839zd said:
> 
> 
> > miles_hot":1cy839zd said:
> ...


 
i just chop them in the right depth


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## bosshogg (7 Jun 2011)

i just chop them in the right depth[/quote]

your so cool man 8) 8) 8)


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## DOOGYREV (7 Jun 2011)

> i just chop them in the right depth


 
Not always option if your hanging a new door in an existing frame though.


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## Benchwayze (7 Jun 2011)

DOOGYREV":2vb5skve said:


> > i just chop them in the right depth
> 
> 
> 
> Not always option if your hanging a new door in an existing frame though.



=D> =D> =D> 

This is better than 'The Comedians'! 

(hammer)


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## jimi43 (7 Jun 2011)

mack9110000":3n8ncb7o said:


> miles_hot":3n8ncb7o said:
> 
> 
> > Plane shavings make excelletn shims for when you've got a bit to enthusiatice cutting housings for things like door hinges
> ...



Isn't that just whistful thinking!? :mrgreen: 

(Ok that one is definitely coat material....)  

Jim


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## Anonymous (7 Jun 2011)

DOOGYREV":244la3id said:


> > i just chop them in the right depth
> 
> 
> 
> Not always option if your hanging a new door in an existing frame though.


 then i would do it properly and splice the existing hinge pockets


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## Benchwayze (8 Jun 2011)

mike71":3qoe94a4 said:


> DOOGYREV":3qoe94a4 said:
> 
> 
> > > i just chop them in the right depth
> ...



That brings back memories...

I did this often in the 60s. I worked for a builder who had a contract for maintenance work on Council homes. Some of the frames I had to work with though were almost 100% pocket-splice! There were many 'debates' with my gaffer, when to do the job properly, I would go to the yard and persuade the Joiner to 'issue' some framing material, so I could knock up a new frame on site. The debates came when the Council Inspector had sanctioned a new door, but had ignored the state of the frame. So cost-cutting is nothing new! Of course the Inspector wasn't a qualified Carpenter. The guy who gave us most trouble was an ex-bobby, who had forsaken his plumbing to join the force, years before. Nothing changes does it? 

Edit: No reflection on plumbers! :mrgreen: It was the norm at the time, for any qualified tradesman to be employed as a general Building Inspector.


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## woodbloke (8 Jun 2011)

jimi43":1w6bu0bs said:


> mack9110000":1w6bu0bs said:
> 
> 
> > miles_hot":1w6bu0bs said:
> ...


I think this might be a bridge too far Jimi - Rob...defo coat _and_ hat material :lol:


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## wobblycogs (8 Jun 2011)

Here's one that I should try to learn...

When putting in screws always drill a pilot hole of the appropriate size so that wood doesn't split and don't over tighten the screw lest you damage the head or shear it clean off. If you are struggling to get a screw in you are probably doing something wrong.

And a quick follow on, if you are going to screw a floorboard down use a slotted screw rather than a philips or pozi. The screw head often gets filled with waxy gunk over time and it's easy to clean out a slot but a pain to clean out a pozi (spoken from bitter experience).


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## RogerP (8 Jun 2011)

... following on from the above. 

When using brass screws first run a steel screw of the same size into the pilot hole. In too much of a hurry I've ignored my own advice and had brass screws break and they're the very devil to get out if the remains are flush with the wood surface.


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## DOOGYREV (8 Jun 2011)

If you find that nails and pins are bending and/or are not going in straight when normally they would be. (ie not into hard oak without a pilot hole)
Then it may be as simple as some glue or paint on the hammer head, just give it a rub on some sand paper and you will be hammering happily again.


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## AndyT (8 Jun 2011)

If you find that a screw has broken off (maybe because you didn't drill a pilot hole) you can sometimes get a good enough grip with a pair of wire cutters.
If that won't work, a neat way to drill out the stub of screw is to use an old fashioned shell bit in a brace. These have a half-cylindrical shape, so you can drill a hole around the broken screw, but close to it. Then you can plug with a piece of wood, to take the replacement screw.


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## DOOGYREV (8 Jun 2011)

Not Woodwork related other then to help seeing pics of woodwork in the forum.

This is a great really easy way of reducing the memory size of a photo, with out cropping or reducing size

Right click on a photo,
Open with Paint
Click on Save as
then just type .jpg at the end of file name and save

Thats it!


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## monkeybiter (9 Jun 2011)

I've seen this in a magazine but I was already doing it so.. take that sanding belt that you bought without checking your beltsander's size, put a couple of suitable offcuts and a wedge in the middle and you've got a sanding block that can be rotated when the working face gets worn or blinded.

Clean sanding drums with the end of a bit of hosepipe, instant rejuvenation.


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## spg (9 Jun 2011)

gasman":38rkalle said:


> I love that one Flounder!
> How about these 2:
> 1. If you make a mistake / are having a bad day / have an apparently insoluble problem - then leave the shed for a while go and do something else. Most of the problem solving I come up with happens out of the workshop
> 2. Keep superglue to hand - it is the best way to treat minor cuts
> Mark



I once read a similar quote of _3 mistakes of any kind in one session then give up_


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## wobblycogs (9 Jun 2011)

I think we should add the caveat of...

unless you lose a body part in which case give up straight away


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## barkwindjammer (9 Jun 2011)

Wanting to shave a tight internal curve-but have no fancy tool to do it ?
A long, new out the wrapper twist drill bit, with the ends wrapped in masking tape to make it comfortable to hold may get you out of a tight spot in a hurry


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## Anonymous (9 Jun 2011)

To hone a chisel/blade quickly do it free hand.

: lol:


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## xy mosian (9 Jun 2011)

When you are using a hand held power tool in the 'shop, use one of those bits of elastic with a hook each end to keep the excess cable out of harms way. Hang the free end of the hook from the ceiling somewhere.
xy


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## Benchwayze (10 Jun 2011)

Want to find the centre of a board’s edge? 

Using an Engineers’ 90°/45° square:

Square a pencil-line across the board edge.
Scribe a 45° line from each end of the 90° line. 
Where the diagonals cross is dead centre of the board edge. 
Set the square or a marking gauge from that mark, to mark the board at other points. 

HTH
John


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## goldeneyedmonkey (10 Jun 2011)

A small mirror is always handy to have in your toolbox... just don't break it.


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## Benchwayze (10 Jun 2011)

goldeneyedmonkey":1i94cb70 said:


> A small mirror is always handy to have in your toolbox... just don't break it.



I break a mirror every six years. Just so I know I am going to be around for the next seven! Based on the old saying, then I should live for ever. 
As for the bad luck, well, it's better than no luck at all! 

John


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## Phil Sewell (10 Jun 2011)

When screwing 2 pces of wood together to make sure they are exactly in the position you want them cramp them together first, drill through both with the pilot drill then drill the clearance hole afterwards.

To avoid tear out when routing a rebate set the cutter to the plunge depth you want then skim along the edge taking off 0.5 mm to a mill. Then go back and rout out the rebate in several depth passes if necessary. It needs a bit of care (make sure the cutter dosen't grab the wood on deep rebates) but pretty much stops any tear out.


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## jimmy rivers (10 Jun 2011)

I learnt this one off a boat builder


Hungry? Angry? Lonley? Tired?...

...time for a break

ccasion5:


----------



## DTR (11 Jun 2011)

There are some brilliant tips in this thread, thanks everyone  



Benchwayze":24ca9hm4 said:


> Want to find the centre of a board’s edge?
> 
> Using an Engineers’ 90°/45° square:
> 
> ...



On a similar note, to find the centre with a marking gauge:

Set the gauge to the centre distance by eye
Make a mark (a dot) with the gauge from one edge
Make another mark in line with the first from the opposite edge
Hopefully the two marks should be close together. The exact centre of the board will be the halfway point between the two marks. 
Adjust the gauge to suit until the marks from either side meet in the middle.

The human eye is apparently very good at judging where the middle is, which makes this method very quick.


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## Eric The Viking (11 Jun 2011)

Save those large, clear, thin, plastic bags that come wrapped round consumer electronics, etc.

If you have to disassemble things with little springs in (known as "ping-fu**kits" in motorcycling circles), do it sitting at a table, on a tray, with the thing inside one of those bags and your arms in there too, up to the elbows. 

It's not foolproof, but it's saved a lot of swearing on several occasions.

Also, if, like me, you have to use your bench for metalwork, you can get rid of steel filings on the bench and floor with a large magnet from an old hard disk. These are _really_ strong, to the extent they can draw blood if you get your fingers between them. 

Put the magnet in a clean plastic bag (doubled-up if the filings are very sharp). Make sure it's twisted up fairly tight. The filings collect on the bag rather than the magnet, and you get rid of them just by turning the bag inside-out and pulling it off the magnet.

Those magnets are also really good for holding stuff in place when welding.

E.


----------



## Benchwayze (11 Jun 2011)

DTR":fbflxhn6 said:


> There are some brilliant tips in this thread, thanks everyone
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Hi Dave, 

Indeed you're right. That's how my woodwork teacher showed me of course. But we didn't have Engineers' squares in the school wood-shop. If we had they would have been mangled anyhow!

I love my Starrett! 

Regards
John :lol:


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## wobblycogs (11 Jun 2011)

Ooooh just thought of another one 

If you like take away and they come in plastic pots (most seem to now) keep the pots as they are get for holding just a little bit of finish and it doesn't matter if you throw them away. Microwave meal trays are also quite good but they tend to be a little flimsier. I use both types all the time when glossing skirting boards / door frames etc to save the main tin from drying out.


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## Benchwayze (11 Jun 2011)

DOOGYREV":3e25fqxj said:


> If you find that nails and pins are bending and/or are not going in straight when normally they would be. (ie not into hard oak without a pilot hole)
> Then it may be as simple as some glue or paint on the hammer head, just give it a rub on some sand paper and you will be hammering happily again.



If you have fingers like sausages, and have difficulty in positioning fine panel pins, push them through a sliver of thin card first. Then use the card to position them before you start them. 
Works a treat!

John. (hammer)


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## 9fingers (11 Jun 2011)

Benchwayze":2azi4fsy said:


> DTR":2azi4fsy said:
> 
> 
> > There are some brilliant tips in this thread, thanks everyone
> ...



I think I favour Dave's method as it does not depend on the board edges being parallel as does John's original suggestion.

Of course measurement works well but now we are blessed with the metric system, it is easier to make a mistake when dividing by two. With fractional measures it was simply a case of doubling the denominator. eg the centre of 7/8" is 7/16".

Bob


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## Benchwayze (11 Jun 2011)

Ooooerr, Bob... Don't get me started on Metric! :shock: 

I just about got to grips with 25mm being approximately an inch! 

But metric it is convenient for ordering of course. With care the offcuts are not so big as they could be. 

Cheers
John


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## bosshogg (11 Jun 2011)

Hi Dave, 

Indeed you're right. That's how my woodwork teacher showed me of course. But we didn't have Engineers' squares in the school wood-shop. If we had they would have been mangled anyhow!

I love my Starrett! 

Regards
John :lol:[/quote]

Someone nicked my Starrett 12" square years ago  , I'm left with the protractor and centre finder unused as my replacement combination square blade doesn't fit, does anyone know if any of the other (older) cast combination squares do fit, as Starrett replacement bodies and blades are extortionate in price, circa- £60.0 for head and £40.0+ for a blade. 
Older, non Starrett, models sometimes come up on flea bay and go for reasonable prices, but Starrett seams to be the magic word for high price, any pointers will be appreciated...bosshogg


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## Benchwayze (11 Jun 2011)

Hi Boss, 

Agreed, the new blades are a bit heavy on price. 

I am after a 6" blade myself, but I think I am going to have to buy the whole package. 
I haven't tried to put my Starrett onto any other blade, so I can't answer your question. But tomorrow, if my hamstring is not too bad, I will go into the shop, and check for you. 

regards
John


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## adzeman (11 Jun 2011)

This is a great thread which will ron and run. A number of the posts are about measuring, etc using tapes, not using more than one tape. I was taught not to use tapes but to use measuring rods and to produce a reliable rod an engineers square is an essential piece of equipment. Would you believe I purchased mine in 1956 and is still good and true.


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## DOOGYREV (11 Jun 2011)

Some scribing tips for fitted furniture.

When your scribing to an uneven wall and the largest gap is between 4mm & 5mm just use your pencil put it against the wall and draw a line on the piece that needs to be scribed, if it is a painted pencil remember to put a strip of masking tape on it, or you will leave a mark on the wall.

For larger gaps you can use different sized washers.







My favourite method for more detailed scribing like skirting boards, panels, dado rail, Picture rail, coving ect… is using a compass, just change the pointy bit for anything that doesn’t leave a mark.


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## Sawyer (12 Jun 2011)

DOOGYREV":7gvwz10l said:


> If you find that nails and pins are bending and/or are not going in straight when normally they would be. (ie not into hard oak without a pilot hole)
> Then it may be as simple as some glue or paint on the hammer head, just give it a rub on some sand paper and you will be hammering happily again.



Doh! I was going to say that and have just read through 5 pages to find you've beaten me to it!

As a lad, I was given a pile of plywood shelves to fit lippings to with pins and glue. Seeing I was having trouble with knocking pins in straight, my mentor came over and advised me to wax the face of the hammer. 5 minutes and many bent pins later he came to enquire if the wax had made things any easier.

"Thought not" he laughed after my reply in the negative and then gave me the correct advice, as above. I've been alright at nailing ever since.

It was the only apprentice wind-up I ever fell for.


----------



## Sawyer (13 Jun 2011)

..... Oh yes, my tip:

If you're framing up with mortice & tenon joints and one of the shoulders won't close up. It's not always practicable to dismantle and adjust with a shoulder plane (or you might not _have _a shoulder plane).

Turn the frame over to the shoulder which has gone up tight, and knock it slightly apart to show a gap the same, or very slightly less than the kerf of your tenon saw.

Lightly run your tenon saw into the gap to clean it out.

Turn the frame back over, locate your saw into the shoulder line and cut down as deep as the tenon. Knock the joint back together and enjoy looking at a nice tight shoulder!

And from the same mentor, who taught me to knock nails in (and a great deal more besides). His parting words to me:
"Always pay attention to your sharpening. Don't try and work with dull tools."

Sound advice indeed.


----------



## DOOGYREV (16 Jun 2011)

For those annoying splinters that go straight in and snap off below your skin. 
The type that don't go all the way through to the other side, and that you cant dig out with a chisel for fear of lacerating something important. 
Well this stuff's great, it costs less then a squid, just put some on at night, then in the morning give it a squeeze and out pops the splinter.


----------



## Eric The Viking (16 Jun 2011)

OK Jimi, Blister and all you other car-booters, here's another one, following on from that OM10 thread earlier... 

Give old SLR camera lenses a new lease of life, as magnifying glasses:

Simply turn the lens round so you're looking through the front towards the back (as if you were looking into the camera body). Open up the iris, and voila! You have a really high quality "magnifying glass."

50mm or thereabouts is about the best compromise for magnification versus focal distance - wider-angle lenses give more magnification, but the object needs to be closer, and the lens physically gets in the way. 135mm etc. are too long a focus to be useful (I can only hold something at arm's length, max!).

I use an old Pentax 50mm f1.8. A clear filter on the front stops it getting scratched, and I use its back lens cap as a stand on the bench to return it to, so it stays reasonably clean.

Camera lenses are perfect for looking at edges you're sharpening - you can see very fine scratches and burr easily - and for all sorts of similar jobs. Being usually made of aluminium or plastic, they don't attract filings (but it's still a good idea to keep the lens off the sharpening bench), and most are roughly cylindrical, so easily clamped.

Incidentally, it's the focal length that matters most, so you can also use the lenses from old darkroom enlargers. Although they're physically smaller, optically they're just as good as, if not better than, cheap camera lenses, but the image will be dimmer though.

Cheers, E.

PS: if (when) the filter gets cruddy, wash it with cheap liquid hand soap (the sort without 'moisturizer' in it), rinse under a warm tap, then dry with a clean well-washed hanky (not a new one). Leave it in a warm place for an hour or so, for the last bits of water in the threads, etc. to dry, and it's good as new. It's important to rinse all the soap off, but it works. I've been doing this for years and never damaged a filter yet (nor my glasses either).


----------



## Benchwayze (16 Jun 2011)

DOOGYREV":24d5vb4o said:


> For those annoying splinters that go straight in and snap off below your skin.
> The type that don't go all the way through to the other side, and that you cant dig out with a chisel for fear of lacerating something important.
> Well this stuff's great, it costs less then a squid, just put some on at night, then in the morning give it a squeeze and out pops the splinter.



Years ago, we used 'Icthemol' or 'Blackjack', for the same purpose. This looked like very thick, brown treacle. It dealt with boils and other surface infections. 

Then H&S decided that Icthemol caused cancer! 

I am still waiting, touch wood! 

John


----------



## wobblycogs (16 Jun 2011)

Intrigued by this Ichthammol thingy that I've never heard of was I went to look up what's in it. Seems that it's basically a tar recovered from shale oil distillation. Anyway, you can still buy it if you want, Lloyds Pharmacy sell bandages containing the stuff and there are pastes available too. Seems to mostly be used on animals now though.


----------



## jimi43 (16 Jun 2011)

Surely touching wood was the cause of the problem in the first place John? :mrgreen: :mrgreen: 

Jim


----------



## 9fingers (16 Jun 2011)

wobblycogs":1g61wex9 said:


> Intrigued by this Ichthammol thingy that I've never heard of was I went to look up what's in it. Seems that it's basically a tar recovered from shale oil distillation. Anyway, you can still buy it if you want, Lloyds Pharmacy sell bandages containing the stuff and there are pastes available too. Seems to mostly be used on animals now though.




As a child in the 50s, I was regularly anointed with tar and lassar's paste for fairly severe eczema and had to wear cotton gloves and socks in bed to keep the filthy stuff off the bedding. I sincerely hope John is incorrect about the cancer linkage both for his sake and mine! :shock: 

Bob


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## Benchwayze (16 Jun 2011)

jimi43":2c8g9197 said:


> Surely touching wood was the cause of the problem in the first place John? :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
> 
> Jim



=D> =D> =D> 

Brilliant! 

John


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## Benchwayze (16 Jun 2011)

Bob, 

That's what I was told, and I honestly thought it had been 'banned', like Camphorated Oil and other of its derivatives.

Now I know we can still buy the stuff next time I have a stubborn splinter, I will buy some. Although, minor splinters I can't 'dig' out, I leave to fester, then pop 'em! Eeeeuwww! :lol: 


John :twisted:


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## Sawyer (16 Jun 2011)

> Of course measurement works well but now we are blessed with the metric system, it is easier to make a mistake when dividing by two. With fractional measures it was simply a case of doubling the denominator. eg the centre of 7/8" is 7/16".
> 
> Bob



Couldn't agree more, Bob, another reason for my eternal point that feet & inches are more user-friendly. I suppose people not used to imperial often don't have the habit of thinking in fractions and find them daunting. But as you show, fractions have some practical advantages and seem somehow more 'human'. Fractions are second nature to me. They weren't daft, those Romans!

I have no choice much of the time, but when left to my own devices, always work in imperial.

Anyway, I digress. Here's another tip:

If using a large drill bit (say 3/8") and hand-held power drill to countersink screw holes, the bit will tend to snatch and slightly tear the surface and may go deeper than intended. Especially unwelcome on any veneered surface. The answer is simply to set your drill in reverse, press slightly harder and presto! No snatch, much better control for depth and a lovely clean countersink.


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## jimi43 (16 Jun 2011)

Am I imagining it or is the angle of a drill tip different to that of a screw head and countersink?

I think we should be told! :mrgreen: 

Jim


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## Digit (16 Jun 2011)

Depends on how you sharpen the drill.

Roy.


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## 9fingers (16 Jun 2011)

A standard jobber drill point is 118 degree included angle, countersunk screws are 90 degree included. In practice, wood will give a bit and often you can get away with using either. However working in metal, nothing looks worse to me when drills get used to countersink holes.

Bob


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## DOOGYREV (16 Jun 2011)

Sawyer":1f2kj3dv said:


> Anyway, I digress. Here's another tip:
> 
> If using a large drill bit (say 3/8") and hand-held power drill to countersink screw holes, the bit will tend to snatch and slightly tear the surface and may go deeper than intended. Especially unwelcome on any veneered surface. The answer is simply to set your drill in reverse, press slightly harder and presto! No snatch, much better control for depth and a lovely clean countersink.



Do you mean insted of using a countersink (for whatever reason) you can use a drill bit thats the same size as the screw head but to drill in reverse?


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## jimi43 (16 Jun 2011)

Digit":3ng4z2uu said:


> Depends on how you sharpen the drill.
> 
> Roy.



And another tip! Brilliant! :mrgreen: 

Jim


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## Digit (16 Jun 2011)

Any where a drill may 'snatch', such as in plastic, a useful tip is to grind the sharp cutting edge off.
Whilst on drills and drilling, a neat way of cutting small diameter gaskets, soft washers, felt feet etc is to drill an approriate sized hole in a piece of steel using a pillar drill, then invert the drill in the chuck, place the felt etc over the hole and push the drill through.

Roy.


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## jimi43 (16 Jun 2011)

Another tip with drilling steel...since we are on that subject...is to drill through some cloth..a rag. This has the effect of removing the burr or swarf.

Jim


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## Sawyer (17 Jun 2011)

> Do you mean insted of using a countersink (for whatever reason) you can use a drill bit thats the same size as the screw head but to drill in reverse?



Yes, exactly. I've never given the relative angles of drills vs. countersinks much thought. Wood has enough give in it to adjust itself. I see the point about metal though and maybe with a really hard timber it would be similar. Food for thought.


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## promhandicam (17 Jun 2011)

jimi43":3mwgqi6y said:


> Another tip with drilling steel...since we are on that subject...is to drill through some cloth..a rag. This has the effect of removing the burr or swarf.
> 
> Jim



It will also have the effect of removing the tips of your fingers or worse when the cloth that you are presumably holding in place gets rapidly pulled round the helix of the drill bit bringing your fingers into contact with the spinning drill - therefore a pretty stupid suggestion - unless I've misunderstood your description of what you propose. :? When I did my apprenticeship, we had a block of tallow by the pillar drills for putting on the drill bit to prevent overheating by lubricating the hole being drilled.


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## jimi43 (17 Jun 2011)

You don't need a bedsheet! :wink: 

Just a piece the size of a postage stamp... :mrgreen: 

Jim


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## 9fingers (17 Jun 2011)

I met Jim only the other day and he had all fingers present so I assume that the method is to use a small piece of cloth and let it spin??

I mean to try it sometime although it is a new one on me.

Bob

Edit: Jim's confirmation beat my post


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## monkeybiter (23 Jun 2011)

When planing a door, standing astride it, wearing shorts.......watch out for splinters! 
Anyone got a plaster?


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## bosshogg (23 Jun 2011)

monkeybiter":1a3wad5r said:


> When planing a door, standing astride it, wearing shorts.......watch out for splinters!
> Anyone got a plaster?



Ah! how I remember that one :shock:


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## drillbit (23 Jun 2011)

Not sure I can realistically offer much advice, but if you can't afford benchdogs like me, and have a cheap tatty bench, these are very useful for holding pieces in place when planing / routing.

http://dowel.co.uk/shelf-support-nail-t ... 79485.html

You end up with a bench like a pin cushion...but it works.


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## Tony Spear (24 Jun 2011)

jimi43":1nqrp0c3 said:


> Another tip with drilling steel...since we are on that subject...is to drill through some cloth..a rag. This has the effect of removing the burr or swarf.
> Jim



Wot? :shock: :shock: :shock: 

I once had the misfortune to get some swarf caught in an oily rag I was using (I've no idea why!). I ended up with an eight inch scar up my left inner forearm and only missed a major artery by a fraction of an inch. :shock: :shock:

Edited to add:

Needless to say, I haven't had a major incident in the last 45 years!


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## Tony Spear (24 Jun 2011)

9 Fingers Bob, you have P.M.


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## jimi43 (24 Jun 2011)

Tony Spear":15san8w3 said:


> jimi43":15san8w3 said:
> 
> 
> > Another tip with drilling steel...since we are on that subject...is to drill through some cloth..a rag. This has the effect of removing the burr or swarf.
> ...



Ok...to restate...use a small piece of cotton cloth and drill throught that...don't hang on to it..wrap your arm around it or in any other way attach your body to it! #-o 

If you are at all worried about doing it...don't do it... 

It does however work, very effectively, if done with some commonsense

Jim


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## 9fingers (24 Jun 2011)

9fingers":ylrqetar said:


> I met Jim only the other day and he had all fingers present so I assume that the method is to use a small piece of cloth and let it spin??
> 
> I mean to try it sometime although it is a new one on me.
> 
> ...




I'm normally very careful indeed to keep rag away from rotating machinery as it can wrap around the job/tool in a trice and lead to the hazards that Tony Spear describes as well as drawing limbs towards the cutting tool.

However with the important proviso that the square of cloth mentioned in Jim's tip is say no bigger than twice the drill diameter then I feel that there is little risk of a problem.

Bob

Edit: Jim's beaten me again!!


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## studders (24 Jun 2011)

Eric The Viking":37m1il7g said:


> Put the magnet in a clean plastic bag (doubled-up if the filings are very sharp). Make sure it's twisted up fairly tight. The filings collect on the bag rather than the magnet, and you get rid of them just by turning the bag inside-out and pulling it off the magnet.
> 
> E.



Good tip. Says he who cleaned up his grinding area with a big magnet, then spent three times as long trying to get the damn stuff off the magnet. :roll:


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## jimi43 (24 Jun 2011)

Did you try it Bob?

I would hate to have to call you Bob "8 Fingers"!!!

Thanks for the clarification. Perhaps I should have been more specific...I had no idea that someone would attempt to use a large rag or hang onto it...apologies if I accidentally suggested something that would be dangerous!!

If it is considered that someone would be likely to misunderstand the tip and hurt themselves I am more than happy to delete it.

Jim


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## 9fingers (24 Jun 2011)

Hi Jim,

No I've not tried it yet. This week I have been put to work laying a pseudo cobbled path down to my workshop and now have an aching back as a reward.

Time for a hot bath methinks.

Cheers

Bob


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## jimi43 (24 Jun 2011)

9fingers":2zjjkou4 said:


> Hi Jim,
> 
> No I've not tried it yet. This week I have been put to work laying a pseudo cobbled path down to my workshop and now have an aching back as a reward.
> 
> ...



Radox mate....I recommend Radox....

Jim


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## barkwindjammer (11 Aug 2011)

Home made bench stops/dogs

If you need some bench stops then a simple and effective method is to route short slots , use a 1/2" or 3/4" straight bit, they only need to be 2" long or there abouts, and 18mm deep or there abouts (not all the way through the bench top), the same shape as a festool domino would make, then make some 'domino stops' of various lengths (heights) out of something tough like beech, like a loose/slip tenon,,,,but without the glue,,,,obviously.
These can be made anywhere on your bench top, at any angle, simple and versatile.


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## goldeneyedmonkey (9 Nov 2011)

A pack of wet wipes is very handy for cleaning up any glue squeeze out/ glue lines. 

Cheers _Dan


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## bosshogg (9 Nov 2011)

White PVA glue mixed with some powdered chalk, Artex etc. tinted with some wood dust to suit job (trial and error I'm afraid) makes a good filler. If you can get it spot on it's invisible, treat with some clear knotting, followed by finish ...bosshogg  


> Be a first rate version of yourself, not a second rate version of someone else.
> Judy Garland  (hammer)


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## condeesteso (9 Nov 2011)

It's a duty to add to, is it not?
3/4 dog holes, and the dogs stick. Basic household candles (the cheap ones) seem to be 3/4 diameter... you know what to do!
And I always keep a candle very close to hand, for screw tips, tool assembly sometimes, plane sole. They'll tell you not to because it may upset later finishes, but I've never found that an issue, and anyway with every cut you are removing the deposit so a few passes and it's pretty much gone. (Sure beats tallow anyway!)
So: one cheap candle, white. And keep it close by.


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## goldeneyedmonkey (9 Nov 2011)

condeesteso":3ktp2sdg said:


> white. And keep it close by.



probably all know this anyhows... but also great for getting that smooth perfect action on drawer runners. Wood to wood, not metal drawer slides of course! 

Cheers _Dan.


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## monkeybiter (10 Nov 2011)

I was bought an battery operated self extending tape measure one christmas. Not really used until I wanted to pull some cables under floorboards. The self extending feature is brilliant for reaching across a room under the boards, attach the cable, then pulling back is the easy part.


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## Luke Kelly (10 Nov 2011)

As someone at the distinctly amateur end of things: Don't hoard wood for the perfect project, get on and make.


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## condeesteso (10 Nov 2011)

yes Luke, and there's another side to that I was once very guilty of. Don't save your best tools for best - use 'em and start doing your best.
(I used to keep the odd Lie plane or chisel until the work justified using it... ridiculous really #-o )


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## maltrout512 (10 Nov 2011)

If you need to trim a small amount off a 45* cut and you have forgot your mitre square why not use the back of the chisel, as in the photo's


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## jimi43 (10 Nov 2011)

monkeybiter":1a66nwia said:


> I was bought an battery operated self extending tape measure one christmas. Not really used until I wanted to pull some cables under floorboards. The self extending feature is brilliant for reaching across a room under the boards, attach the cable, then pulling back is the easy part.



This one is fan-blinkin-tastic!!!

I was thinking "what on earth would you buy one of those for!?"

Now I know!

Brilliant!! =D> 

Jimi


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## Sawyer (11 Nov 2011)

I was once discussing tips & dodges with a rather naive acquaintance who suggested in all seriousness; "sawdust and glue for filling any gaps. Have you ever heard of that one?" (I kid you not).

Now, none of us here would _ever_ resort to that. Would we? :lol:


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## studders (11 Nov 2011)

Saw dust and Glue, never found it to work for me.


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## Eric The Viking (11 Nov 2011)

When cleaning water-based finishes (more and more common these days :-( ) off brushes use really cheap shampoo first. Work it into the bristles neat, then clean in COLD water. Don't be tempted by washing up liquid - it contains glycerine that will ruin finishes for subsequent use. 

If you want to get solvent-based paint off brushes, before use drill a hole through the brush just above the ferrule (metal bit round the bristles). Use the hole with a piece of wire or a long nail to suspend the brush in white spirit, so that there is about 3/4" between the end of the bristles and the bottom of the jam jar. The paint falls to the bottom, leaving the bristles in good nick for next time. I dunno why manufactures don't provide a hole in the right place, but they never seem to.

New mini-paint rollers shed 'fur,' which is a pain. I don't re-use them as it's not worth the bother, but I do clean them before use by putting my vac on strongest suck and using it to pull the roller round against resistance from a finger. Any loose fluff comes off _before_ I start painting. I also trim the fur on the open end with scissors, to a "45 bevel" so that it doesn't hold too much paint and either drip or leave a trail. 

HTH,

E.


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## Eric The Viking (11 Dec 2011)

(it's gone a bit quiet on this thread recently...)

I wish my workshop was attached to the house, but it isn't. So, about this time of year usually, I start muttering darkly and decide the planes etc. really have to come indoors because of the damp.

But there's a big problem: cold plane + warm house = condensation + rapid rust formation. 

I've got two techniques to avoid this happening:

1. Out in the workshop wrap up the planes in a plastic bag each, and remove as much air as practical before tying it up fairly tight. It doesn't need to be a hermetic seal, just not an open bag. When they come indoors, condensation forms on the outside of the bag and not on the metal surfaces (there isn't enough air inside to be a problem). Once they've warmed up to ambient temp, they can come out again.

2. This I prefer, as it's quicker and doesn't need much thought/planning: bring the planes in as-is, and *immediately* (seconds count here!) put them on top of a hot radiator. After half an hour or so they can be moved to wherever you want to store them. This works because the air above the radiator is very dry indeed, and the planes can heat up without condensation forming on them.

The first one works better for awkwardly shaped things that won't balance on a radiator, as long as you get as much air out of the bag as possible.

There's nothing worse than seeing a rust spot from a drip on a mirror-finish plane sole you spent hours flattening. Hopefully you won't. If you put tinsel round them, the Domestic Controller might be fooled into thinking they're decorative and let them stay put on top of a radiator(s) for the winter. Well, it works until 12th night, anyway! 



E.


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## woodbloke (11 Dec 2011)

Eric The Viking":2srslri9 said:


> I wish my workshop was attached to the house, but it isn't. So, about this time of year usually, I start muttering darkly and decide the planes etc. really have to come indoors because of the damp.
> 
> But there's a big problem: cold plane + warm house = condensation + rapid rust formation.
> 
> E.


Rust, rust, what's rust stuff you talk of?... un-damp your 'shop E  Mine's fully insulated, more or less sealed and a dehumidifier runs 24/7 to a soak away. In the seven years or so that it's been built, I've never seen any rust on any iron surface, be it a plane, chisel or machine table - Rob


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## jimi43 (11 Dec 2011)

I bring my planes indoors in September! :mrgreen: 

Jim


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## Eric The Viking (11 Dec 2011)

I spent just under £1500 on the roof eighteen months ago. It now has two corrugated roofs, separated by about 3" of insulation - makes a lot of difference, but there's still damp - the walls are pre-cast concrete etc. It's a work in progress...


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## carpenteire2009 (12 Dec 2011)

A great carpenter told me this one (doubt he ever had to resort to it himself though):

"If your joints aren't nice and tight, fill them them with glue,sawdust and other sh*te"

On a more practical note:
Use a plastic drinking straw to help with blowing dust out of holes when boring in wood or concrete/ brickwork.

After cleaning natural bristle paintbrushes, put a drop or two of hair conditioner (cheap stuff will do) on the brush and work into the bristles. Wrap in newspaper and when the brushes dry you'll find they hold their shape well and maintain their suppleness. Also when painting- if using oil based paints and are finishing up for the day, wrap the brush or roller in a plastic bag and stick in the freezer to prevent drying out. The brush can be used without cleaning the next time you need it- saves on cleaning between coats etc. This works very well.

When using sandpaper in a orbital sander I use duct tape to reinforce the back of the sheet near the ends, doubles the life of the sheet as it prevents tearing at the corners.

Baby wipes are great for cleaning up mess and removing oil from your hands before glue up etc. Also good for cleaning paint from hands.


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## trsleigh (12 Dec 2011)

When using a random orbit sander have an old cushion handy. Then after switching it off,rather than waiting for it to spin down before putting it down, simply dump it on the cushion.


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## Eric The Viking (12 Dec 2011)

trsleigh":16vue9ib said:


> When using a random orbit sander have an old cushion handy. Then after switching it off,rather than waiting for it to spin down before putting it down, simply dump it on the cushion.



That's a good 'un! 

I've recently got a big Makita, and once a vacuum hose is attached, where to put it down becomes an interesting challenge!

Thanks, E.


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