# oak veneer wardrobes - what finshing plan ?



## kingcod (16 Jul 2009)

I'm progressing well with some built in wardrobes in some lovely light oak veneered MDF. - A couple of things I am not sure about:


1. will light sanding remove the inevitable minor marks from the construction process? should I hand sand ?will a belt sander be too brutal?

2. What finish should I sue to preserve the lovely light colour and protect the surface from minor bumps and marking? Can I spray using my HVLP Earlex kit? How many coats?

3. Can I fully construct the wardrobes before oil/wax of varnishing? Is there any advantage in doing the unassembled components first?

I promise some pics when its done!


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## AndyT (17 Jul 2009)

These are not the only answers, but they worked for me when I built a wardrobe from ash and ash-veneered mdf:

1 Light sanding ok. I'd do it by hand - the veneer is thin and a slip will show.
2 I used Danish oil wiped on with a rag, helped into corners with a brush. Two coats on the inside and the hidden outsides (it's freestanding in a recess) But three or more coats on the doors where it shows.
3 With a built-in you will have mostly large flat panels. Probably easier to handle these one at a time not in the bedroom. Also bedrooms are very dusty.

Andy


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## matt (17 Jul 2009)

For finish, based on only having used it once recently, I can recommend this: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=0


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## Boz62 (17 Jul 2009)

I'm increasingly using Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. It is very thin, easy to brush on, then immediately wipe off. Wait 4 hours, do it again. Wait 4 hours, buff up for a satin finish or add polish as required for more bling. All done in one day. Clear finish, brings out the grain beautifully. Its' solvent is white spirit so easy clean up and also easy to dilute if the tin thickens with age.

I just find it so much simpler than the various oils and varnishes and mixtures I've used in the past. And there's so much left in the tin I might as well keep using it 

I also do some finishing pre-glue-up. I am rather clumsy and it helps avoid glue marks before finishing 

Lazy Boz


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## Derek Willis. (19 Jul 2009)

Rustins Plastic Coationg, dilute it first, either with their own thinners or, as I do, with Cellulose thinners, one or two very thin coats brushed on will make the finish virtually indestructable.
Derek.


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## yetloh (22 Jul 2009)

I agree with most of what has been said. I would avoid water borne finishes on oak. For me they take away the warmth of oak which is such an essential part of its appeal. So far as spraying is concerned, I would narrow down your options and then consult the makers' websites and see what they say. 

Jim


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## Big Fat Pig (11 Aug 2009)

Well, as it happens i am in the middle of making of pair of dresser style bookcases also using oak veneered MDF. So far i have finished the inner parts with a light hand sanding, sanding sealer, a very light sanding using some 1200 grade wet & dry paper, (used dry of course ! ) ( not even i`m that silly !!! 8-[ ) and then 2 coats of danish oil. For the outer surfaces i am thinking of applying a wax finish on top of the danish oil.
However, i do have a question and that is :- would grain filler help me achieve a better finish or is it inappropriate in this case ?


Piggy


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## yetloh (12 Aug 2009)

You could use a grain filler but, in my view, it is inappropriate for oak which is a naturally open grained timber and that is an important part of its character. I have not seen one used on oak and, if you chose to use one, you would need to be careful with the colour because I think it could appear quite prominent if you got it wrong. Danish oil is good on oak and will give you a nice warm natural sheen with the pores remaining visible. Apply it in thin coats and denib in between. 

If you are looking for a fine finish but still retaining the natural look, apply the last coat and, while it is wet, sand with 600 grit wet and dry paper rubbing the resulting slurry into the grain, then gently wipe off with a lint free cloth. This gives a small measure of grain filling and a nice silky surface which will respond well to a coat of clear wax. I have used this method to very good effect on a small chest of drawers.

It is a truism too often overlooked that time devoted finishing and the preparation for it is always richly rewarded.

Hope this helps.

Jim


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## Big Fat Pig (12 Aug 2009)

Thanks Jim, it will most certainly help. And when they are finished i will try and post some pics on here.

Piggy


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## yetloh (13 Aug 2009)

Look forward to seeing the pics.

Jim


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