# Project Noxom- A n0legs production



## n0legs (6 Jul 2016)

You know The Ten Commandments? The one about "thou shalt not covet", or something like that? 
Well I have sinned and I did "covet" a Moxon style vice, but at £130 plus for the hardware kit, well to put it lightly it could stay there in the shop :shock: 
So not being the type of guy to give up this "coveting" easily I decided a little "back street mechanicing"( thank you Mr Dibnah for that line) was in order :lol: 


In this little lot there's the hardware for a Moxon.









I can "find" most things, but a pair of handwheels was a little difficult. So to the bay of plenty and after letting Mr Wong in HK have some of my hard earned, I ended up with a pair of these.








Some M18 stud/all thread was obtained (don't ask about why M18, I like it okay!) ( Okay I'll tell ya', I snapped Mr M16 and lost somewhere ((see loaned out, never returned :evil) Mr M20 ((( actually I know which dickless POS has it, but that'll just end in tears. For him , no no no, not me [-X ))) and it's quite common in my line of work).


I've seen some various designs of these Moxon things and one thing I wanted to avoid was the normal locking nuts at the rear. I wanted to be able to mount the vice and not have to get down on the floor messing about with a spanner to lengthen the bars. 
I couldn't find a bit of brass big enough to turn down and with my mates lathe being somewhat fubar, this was seeming to be a bit of a stumbling block for that idea :roll: 
Not beaten yet! A few 5/8 BSW brass nuts and a few 1" brass washers and we're in business. 
I bored out the nuts to 15.5mm then tapped a nice new 18mm thread. All good so far.












I quickly "turned/machined" a little shoulder on the nuts so they fitted the internal dia of the washers, this was for location more than anything else. I was pleasantly surprised how easy this was to do. I'd done some hand turning of metals when I was an apprentice, but that was in a proper workshop set up for the task. I now have to sharpen one of my turning chisels, no biggie. This is one of the benefits of coming from an industry where the words "no" or "can't be done" hold no weight, get it done. End of.























Now, "the man who cleans is the man who solders" is what my old instructor used to say and to be honest he's right. I'm not a stranger to soldering, part of my trade you see, so getting these two lovely bits of brass joined in some kind of matrimony was not going to be a problem 8) 
Get the metal clean first, then flux immediately to stop any oxidation. Choose a suitable solder, we're going with plumbers metal (type H if you prefer) and away we go. 













How am I going to hold this?? #-o 
Drill a hole in a scrap block of wood, tap it, then wind in an offcut of stud/all thread. Place washer over and wind on nut, clamp them up tight and now, away we go.








Get it nice and hot, flux during for luck and work the solder into the joint. All done, solid. 
Why plumbers metal? Well it's an excellent all round solder, it will go with lead, copper, brass (obviously), steel and bronze. It's fairly easy to work, no crazy heat and its really quite tough. I once saw an 8T substation dragged about 1.5-2 metres by a Hymac, when he'd caught one of my lovely HV cables. The cable was secured to the substation via a brass gland that was sweated to the cable outer sheath, the gland and sheath stayed together like a lovesick couple. I digress, back on point :lol: 













Back onto the lathe for a little more "machining" and a quick rub with a file and these are done. Nearly!























Out with the protractor and pillar drill and a few holes were drilled for the securing of said nuts to the rear jaw of soon to be lovely jubbly vice.








Well it appears Mr Wong didn't send me two of his best handwheels. The centre bore was decidedly not concentric, not to the hub or the rim :roll: . This will not do Mr Wong!! But sending them back considering what I paid was out of the question, they needed some enlargement anyway.








A tip I learned, if you have to bore out somehting that's predrilled, you can use an end mill to try and start again. Trouble with that, is down here in the land of n0legs there's no end mills in the armoury, but we do have some rubbish router bits. They're carbide, right!!
Well, chuck up the handwheel and chuck up a dovetail bit (I have no idea why I settled on this one, I really don't. It just seemed right). This is one of those bits from one of those cutter sets that are like £10 for 40 bits. You know they're going to be cr4p, they are cr4p, but they're so cheap you think "why not?". This is one of the last ones from that set, so no big loss if it goes **** up.













Well it worked, or worked well if you like! Slowly advancing the bit into the cast iron, (and let's remember this is some of China's finest cast), along with a good dose of oil now and again, a hole more concentric than earlier is the result. Not bad, even if I say so myself  








These need boring out to the required 15.5mm ready for tapping to the oh so lush M18 I crave.

















Well with that little adventure under our belt we're at this point  








The two "retained" brass nuts will be held on the inside face of the rear jaw with some CSK stainless M5 screws. It might seem like a faff but it's definitely the way I want to go.
I got a pair of oilite bushes, in the correct size, to insert in the front jaw of the vice for the handwheels to run up against when clamping. I think they'll work well and look quite nice.
I suppose I'd better go get some wood sorted now.

Hope you're enjoying it so far


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## ColeyS1 (6 Jul 2016)

What a project and write up so far !!! I gulped when I saw the solder, until I realised you were turning off the excess [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH] It's truly fascinating watching you assembling the parts. Looking forward to seeing the next instalment !

Coley


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## n0legs (6 Jul 2016)

ColeyS1":1x12q9k3 said:


> What a project and write up so far !!! I gulped when I saw the solder, until I realised you were turning off the excess [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH] It's truly fascinating watching you assembling the parts. Looking forward to seeing the next instalment !
> 
> Coley




Cheers Coley  
keeps me from getting bored, and when n0legs gets bored things start to go a bit silly :lol: 

I can't believe the money some stuff costs, so I get off my a$$ and give it a go. 
I'm into this little project a grand total of £24. Happy days 8)


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## ColeyS1 (6 Jul 2016)

Crikey o riley, a whole £24 ! That's a massive saving. I'm off to Google moxon vice, to see if I need one. 
I do like those handwheels. I paid quite a bit for a second hand one from the u.k. Surprising how much cheaper stuff is if you're willing to wait for shipping from h.k

Coley


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## Phil Pascoe (6 Jul 2016)

I had to have a look - if only to find out what a "Noxom" was.  
Very nice so far.


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## n0legs (6 Jul 2016)

phil.p":2qtmpqki said:


> I had to have a look - if only to find out what a "Noxom" was.
> Very nice so far.




Cheers Phil =D> 
You know me, never gonna' be "normal" :lol:


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## Phil Pascoe (6 Jul 2016)

I did find this a while ago, worth a look even if only for the eye watering prices -
WDS Hand wheels

Mod Edit:- Clickable URL link added.

Thanks, mod.


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## n0legs (6 Jul 2016)

phil.p":rl1gjz6p said:


> I did find this a while ago, worth a look even if only for the eye watering prices -
> w.wdsltd.co.uk/product/3690/aluminium-hand-wheel-spoked-pilot-bore-wds-8179/



Beggar!!
Didn't know they come in stainless. I got a thing about stainless, dear though.
Good link Phil, stored him for later.


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## Eric The Viking (7 Jul 2016)

What had your Chinese friend put on the handwheels? Until you said "steel," I'd thought them to be aluminium. You've done some sneaky polishing of the rims too, haven't you? It certainly looks smoother and shinier than in the first pics.

I loved the initial hole in the "middle" - noticed it in the first pic and thought "that'll be fun!" Neat solution. Did the cutter survive?

Can't wait to see what special rare and coveted wood is chosen for this... 

Really fun, do keep it up.

E.


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## Monkey Mark (7 Jul 2016)

Very interesting indeed. I looked around for bits to do the same but certainly never found cheap handwheels. 
Any links for Mr Wong? Or am i wong to ask?


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## DTR (7 Jul 2016)

Great stuff, n0legs =D> I'm going to do something very similar, when I get a round tuit.....


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## Bm101 (7 Jul 2016)

Excellent. Even if you don't have half the gear and more importantly even a shadow of the idea that you have threads like this are fountain of knowledge for beginners like me. Keep it up mate. 
BTW are they right handed threads? Because you know... two rights don't make a wong.


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## n0legs (7 Jul 2016)

Eric The Viking":c3p92laj said:


> What had your Chinese friend put on the handwheels? Until you said "steel," I'd thought them to be aluminium. You've done some sneaky polishing of the rims too, haven't you? It certainly looks smoother and shinier than in the first pics.
> 
> I loved the initial hole in the "middle" - noticed it in the first pic and thought "that'll be fun!" Neat solution. Did the cutter survive?
> 
> ...


 

Thanks for the comments ETV  

I was expecting the worst the moment I clicked the BIN, but in all fairness apart from the whole hole issue (non issue really) the handwheels in the pic are exactly as they arrived :shock: 
The extra shine can only be where I wiped the "cutting" oil (Magnatec 5w30 :lol: ) off. Marks out of 10, I'd give them a 7. Anyways they're probably the same as many UK retailers supply, just less cost and longer waiting time. 
I'm thinking of painting the hub and spokes black at a later date, then I'll give the the rims a little polish.

The cutter? Well it would cut again, probably only butter, but it did really well :lol: 

I'm thinking Beech for the jaws. I saw a lovely piece at the timber yard on my last visit. In fact I think it's some of the same Berncarpenter had for his planes a while back.


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## n0legs (7 Jul 2016)

Monkey Mark":242y4zpy said:


> Very interesting indeed. I looked around for bits to do the same but certainly never found cheap handwheels.
> Any links for Mr Wong? Or am i wong to ask?




Cheers Mark  
Here's the link to Mr Wong's emporium of East Asian Delights :lol: 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... 7&_sacat=0

For the money, now I have them, I don't think you can go wong :lol:


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## n0legs (7 Jul 2016)

DTR":1fon7id1 said:


> Great stuff, n0legs =D> I'm going to do something very similar, when I get a round tuit.....



Cheers Dave  
You, you lucky begger have a metalworking lathe and seem to have become quite the master of it :wink: 
We'll be expecting great things from you :lol:


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## n0legs (7 Jul 2016)

Bm101":323pj45a said:


> Excellent. Even if you don't have half the gear and more importantly even a shadow of the idea that you have threads like this are fountain of knowledge for beginners like me. Keep it up mate.
> BTW are they right handed threads? Because you know... two rights don't make a wong.



Cheers BM  
Thanks for the comments =D> 
Yes they're right handed, maybe I should do one left and one right :lol: Nah!! I'll be in a mess on hangover sundays :lol:


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## Monkey Mark (7 Jul 2016)

n0legs":4i330u3v said:


> Monkey Mark":4i330u3v said:
> 
> 
> > Very interesting indeed. I looked around for bits to do the same but certainly never found cheap handwheels.
> ...


Cheers, nice price. I'll be watching with interest.


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## Baldhead (7 Jul 2016)

Looking good n0legs, I haven't got a metalwork lathe, no room and no funds! Shame really cos I would love to make a moxon vice. If ever you get bored let me know, I have an idea how you could make a few quid!!! :wink: 
Thanks for the WIP.

Stew


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## No skills (7 Jul 2016)

Excellent.

If this is a "I'm skint build" I could help with some beech if you don't mind laminating it.


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## n0legs (7 Jul 2016)

Baldhead":1cp5gg8o said:


> Looking good n0legs, I haven't got a metalwork lathe, no room and no funds! Shame really cos I would love to make a moxon vice. If ever you get bored let me know, I have an idea how you could make a few quid!!! :wink:
> Thanks for the WIP.
> 
> Stew




Thanks Stew  
If I can get this one working (and maybe looking good) I'd certainly entertain a couple of favours. Time is at a premium at the mo', so I'm fitting all my "playing" in around life. Let's see how we get on


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## n0legs (7 Jul 2016)

No skills":30b7sb53 said:


> Excellent.
> 
> If this is a "I'm skint build" I could help with some beech if you don't mind laminating it.




Hey NS, thanks for the offer mate. Much appreciated =D> 
We're not at skint, (yet :lol: ). 
What's that saying?? "Money rich, time poor" :lol: I tell you, I can't wait to retire. I have soooooooooo many plans :lol: 
Seriously thanks for the offer. 
If I get chance next week I'll take a wander out to the timber yard and see what we can find, it's gone so well so far I'm really keen to get this done.


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## Phil Pascoe (7 Jul 2016)

I wonder the wisdom of having hard vice faces - I just replaced the outer one of mine (a piece of rock hard African mahogany) with a piece of soft spruce, the theory being that it will deform before it deforms something put in it, and will grip something uneven a little better. It's sacrificial so if it doesn't work I'll change it. It gets used for day to day general maintenance rather than anything high class.
bench-ideas-t98842.html


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## ColeyS1 (8 Jul 2016)

phil.p":1jpp1edk said:


> I wonder the wisdom of having hard vice faces - I just replaced the outer one of mine (a piece of rock hard African mahogany) with a piece of soft spruce, the theory being that it will deform before it deforms something put in it, and will grip something uneven a little better. It's sacrificial so if it doesn't work I'll change it. It gets used for day to day general maintenance rather than anything high class.
> bench-ideas-t98842.html


I think you're onto something there Phil. I used oak jaws on my everyday vice. On the rare chance I'm working on something softer than oak I have to be careful how much I torque the vice up. I suppose the easiest solution might be to not have the jaws completely flat and perhaps round the edges slightly so there's no noticeable sharp edges. 

Coley


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## DTR (8 Jul 2016)

phil.p":3s9pc8jr said:


> I wonder the wisdom of having hard vice faces - I just replaced the outer one of mine (a piece of rock hard African mahogany) with a piece of soft spruce, the theory being that it will deform before it deforms something put in it, and will grip something uneven a little better. It's sacrificial so if it doesn't work I'll change it. It gets used for day to day general maintenance rather than anything high class.
> bench-ideas-t98842.html



I think that's sound reasoning. Some of the people using vices made from hardwood also advocate lining them with cork or leather


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## DTR (8 Jul 2016)

n0legs":tj8ggytc said:


> DTR":tj8ggytc said:
> 
> 
> > Great stuff, n0legs =D> I'm going to do something very similar, when I get a round tuit.....
> ...



No pressure then :shock: :lol:


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## n0legs (8 Jul 2016)

DTR":2smuy9du said:


> No pressure then :shock: :lol:



Just a little bit :lol:


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## n0legs (8 Jul 2016)

phil.p":1esvekcc said:


> I wonder the wisdom of having hard vice faces - I just replaced the outer one of mine (a piece of rock hard African mahogany) with a piece of soft spruce, the theory being that it will deform before it deforms something put in it, and will grip something uneven a little better.




=D> 
Now that's something I had not considered Phil. I see in the Moxon Kits available that some come with a piece of leather/suede for lining the jaws. 
Looks like I've got a little more thinking time to put in on this. 

Just a quick idea. 
I was thinking of a jaw thickness of 1.5"-2". What if I made them thinner and had a shallow sliding dovetail machined into each one, to allow sliding in and out of some "softer" faces? 
I could even have a set of each, hard and soft :-s 


Thanks everyone for the comments so far and your interest, much appreciated =D> 
I'll update asap


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## MattRoberts (9 Jul 2016)

It's threads like these that make me wish I could work metal! 

I think the replaceable dovetail faces is a great idea, although I'd recommend that the dovetail is super wide with the jaw as the pin and the removable face as the tail. That way the faces are easy to machine with minimal stock removal 

Look forward to seeing the progress


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## DiscoStu (9 Jul 2016)

I just have some MDF faces in my vice. I did that thinking that they wouldn't damage anything and they were cheap and easy to replace. 

I never sought advice on whether this was sensible it just seemed logical but should I use something else and if so what and what is the advantage? Great thread by the way. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## gasman (9 Jul 2016)

Massively impressed. I love threads like this. They make my fertile imagination go all excited about the potential. Well done my friend thats brilliant
Cheers Mark


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## AES (9 Jul 2016)

Excellent post n0legs, full of inspiration, good pix, sensible reasoning, nice humorous touches, and sure to end up with an excellent tool at, what, 10% of the cost of a "real one"?

IMO a prime example of what makes this forum a great place to hang out.

Thanks for posting

AES


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## n0legs (9 Jul 2016)

DiscoStu":32c7nfma said:


> I just have some MDF faces in my vice. I did that thinking that they wouldn't damage anything and they were cheap and easy to replace.
> 
> I never sought advice on whether this was sensible it just seemed logical but should I use something else and if so what and what is the advantage? Great thread by the way.
> 
> ...




I have some "throw away" faces on my bench vice made from ply. It gets used for all sorts , so I've never used anything really nice.
This one will be kept for best :lol: 
Cheers Stu


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## n0legs (9 Jul 2016)

gasman":20y5k797 said:


> Massively impressed. I love threads like this. They make my fertile imagination go all excited about the potential. Well done my friend thats brilliant
> Cheers Mark




Thanks very much Mark


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## n0legs (9 Jul 2016)

AES":3acbjgpw said:


> Excellent post n0legs, full of inspiration, good pix, sensible reasoning, nice humorous touches, and sure to end up with an excellent tool at, what, 10% of the cost of a "real one"?
> 
> IMO a prime example of what makes this forum a great place to hang out.
> 
> ...




Thanks AES  
I reckon by the time I'm done I'll have approx £50 in it, depends a lot on the wood I choose, but I'm aiming for around that price.
One site that sells the Moxon kit charges £162 IIRC, that's just for the metalwork. With my "engineers" head on I thought it was too much :lol:


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## Jake (9 Jul 2016)

Impressive work. Isn't that studding thread, without a QR and all, going to call for some patience every time you move the vice though (of a sort you may have but I would lack)?


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## n0legs (9 Jul 2016)

No real update I'm sorry, life and such got in the way for any playtime today  

But!!! I have been thinking.
This idea of mine about not having the usual locking nuts on the rear of the screws, hence the brass work, has brought up the issue of extending the screws for greater capacity.

I could remove the front jaw and wind them out by hand? I'm not so sure, I've got a good grip, but I fear the downside of the metric course thread could be them getting clogged by dust etc.
You could get a pair of grips or a small stilson and wind them out, but you risk marring the threads. Could make winding down the handwheels difficult :| 

Don't fear my friends, I'm going to broach a hex socket into the ends of the screws :shock: That way I can use an Allan key ( see what I did there?) and wind away to my hearts content.

Ummm!!
Okay I'll be honest, I'm not set up for broaching in any way :roll: 
Do you think I'm gonna' let that stop me?? No, of course not.
Stay tuned, it might get daft :lol:


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## n0legs (9 Jul 2016)

Jake":1dgct1lb said:


> Impressive work. Isn't that studding thread, without a QR and all, going to call for some patience every time you move the vice though (of a sort you may have but I would lack)?




Thanks Jake  

Yes it's studding. I've not seen a Moxon style vice with a QR, they all seem to require the spinning of the handwheels for operation.
The one kit I've seen used a 4mm pitch ACME thread, hence 4mm of travel for each revolution of the handwheel (sorry if I'm teaching Granny & eggs etc) 
Mine is a 2.5mm pitch, yea I've got more spinning to do but I'm not too bothered to be honest. 
You never know, there may be a MKII in the future :lol:


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## AES (10 Jul 2016)

QUOTE: Mine is a 2.5mm pitch, yea I've got more spinning to do but I'm not too bothered to be honest. 
You never know, there may be a MKII in the future :lol: UNQUOTE:

You could always motorise it :lol: 

AES

Edit for P.S. Of course when motorising it you'd need a slipping clutch of some type to disengage the motor drive as the jaws reach the job, allowing you to do the final tightening by hand with those fancy hand wheels. :lol: 

(hat, coat ............)

AES


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## n0legs (13 Jul 2016)

Who wants an update?

Well like an over zealous dinner lady at a comprehensive you're having one (?????? What, sorry I don't know either)

Have any of you got caught in a whirlpool or a tornado? 
No, me neither. Well it's how I feel after this most recent little engineering adventure, I'm committed (maybe should be committed more like. I'll have to look into that) if nothing else, if I say I'm going to do something by golly I do it :lol: 

*Disclaimer*
I did realise about half way through I could have just cut a slot in the end of the threaded bars with a hacksaw and use a big screwdriver. F***!! Where's the fun in that though? 

Back to the story.

Broaching a hex into a piece of metal 101
Course tutor -- n0legs
Session length -- approx 3 hours
Repeated -- Never, well maybe we'll see. Well actually at least twice more to complete this


I put the grey matter to work, did a little research and this is what I came up with.

Gathered below are the neccessary supplies for such a jaunt into the unknown.








I have a hydraulic pump and some rams, normal equipment for the electrical engineer :-s 
So I thought I could use this to provide the "push" needed to make a hex shaped hole in a piece of metal. What to use for the actual broach? Umm, allen key stupid :roll: 
Okay with that settled we move on. 

I "turned" a brass bolt into a tool holder. I needed something to hold securely the allen key on top of the ram. 
A few quick holes, one tapped for M5 to attach the "tool holder" to the ram and another for the actual allen bit.



























Next up came the issue of holding all of this inline with the threaded bar. So a scrap of 100mm box was volunteered for this task.







I realised with up to 10T of pressure pushing up on this box, some deformation was expected. A quick play with the mig and some reinforcement was added and an 18mm nut welded into place.







So let's get this thing assembled.
This is how it all goes together. Are you at the back with us on this? Yea? Good, glad someone is.







I drilled a 6mm hole, I'm going for a 6mm hex, in the end of a scrap piece of stock. It's not the most central hole (I think Mr Wong must have marked the centre on it :lol: ) I've ever drilled, but for a test it'll do fine.


Well it worked, sort of. The bit drove into the steel like it wasn't there, great thinks I.
Well we all know what thinking the best does don't we? Sweet lady balls up is usually right round the corner.
And she was!!
It pressed the bit so far in and so well I couldn't get the beggar out!! Even using my best Anglo Saxon made no effect.
In fact I snapped the bloody bit off. 







Coffee, lots of. Smoke, one or two of.
Got it! No relief around the "broach/bit". I don't need to shove a whole allen key piece into the steel, all I need is a few mm's of untouched profile to create the shape required 8) 
So with plan in hand, (actually in the head, why waste time with drawing all this out) I attacked a piece of allen key to make a new "broach" with the mini grinder.

So with a new hole drilled in the end of my test piece we try once more.
Success, YESSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!     






















The good woman comes home (yes she makes an apperance here as well) to find me dancing round like a drunken numpty.

_GW "What are you doing"_

n0legs "Not now woman I'm creating!"

_GW "I swear one of these days I'll find you in that shed trying to bring a body back to life"_

n0legs "Overreact much?"

In all fairness to her she did say once "Living with you is like being in an episode of Shameless crossed with the Krypton Factor!" :shock: 

Well dear friends I completed what we set out to do. Chuffed is the word me thinks for this occassion.
Where was I? Yea, I was gonna' go get some wood for this. Side tracked might be my middle name.

More to come. Don't know when, we'll just roll with it


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## AES (14 Jul 2016)

Eeeek!

(But it worked didn't it? What more do you want - "neat but not gaudy, like a bull's bum sewn up with a bicycle chain").

AES


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## TFrench (15 Jul 2016)

Brilliant idea! I'd have gone for the slitting blade/screwdriver option but that is very elegant!


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## No skills (16 Jul 2016)

Used to work in a place that had a punching machine, put the shaped punch in the top bit. Put the bit with the hole in the bottom bit. Bit of plate steel in the middle and push the foot pedal... Whiirrr bang.. and you have a shaped hole in the metal - it punched through 10mm plate like it was butter.

One day a bit with the hole was placed in the machine upside down, the holes are tapered you know.. Whiirrr bang... Bits of shrapnel fly out of the machine, somebody gets hit in the arm and a few minutes later they pass out (wasn't me).

So be careful doing this sort of stuff, you can get injured quite unexpectedly - that bloke was very heavy and I pulled a muscle trying to move him.

I won't go into what we used to do with the 40 ton armarda metal bending machine :lol:


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## n0legs (16 Jul 2016)

No skills":1ibn7b4l said:


> So be careful doing this sort of stuff, you can get injured quite unexpectedly




Hi NS, thanks for the reminder =D> 
The reason I have the hydraulics is for crimping some of the big conductors I used to play with (don't get me hands dirty anymore except at home (or if one of my darlings say "that can't be done" _*"outta' my way!!*_ :roll: ) 
Over the years I shattered a few sets of dies, the hex crimps were the best for explosive destruction :lol:, and honestly just like your old workmate I've got the scars :lol:


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## n0legs (21 Jul 2016)

Just a quick update.
I've actually managed to go buy some wood for this  
Home from play early yesterday, so the good woman and I went for a little spin and ended up at the timber yard. The good woman thought I was taking her out to lunch :lol: :roll: 

I got a lovely piece of ash 6" x 3" about 7 foot long and a piece of beech 3" x 2" at about 6 foot. Very pleased  
They'll stay indoors for a week or two until I get time to work on the project. Also they're both at approx 14% MC, so a little more time to settle down. 







I love the grain here






The good woman? Well, I took her out for dinner instead at a local curry house.
Right romantic begger me :lol:


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## n0legs (9 Sep 2016)

Well it's been a while, but,,,,,,
Ladies and gentlemen I have a little update.

Last week, Thursday I think. 
They say aluminium and lead affects the brain, they might be right :? 

Isn't ash hard? Wow wee, that was a surprise :shock: 
I would love to tell you that all the woodwork parts of Project Noxom were lovingly produced by hand from start to finish, but given I try to stay BS free (I'm not talking British Standards) I can't make that claim. 
What I can tell you for fact is changing the thicknesser blades the day before was probably one of my finer decisions, closely followed by changing the planer (jointer if you're from the US of A) blades :wink: 
Ha! just realised I need to point out the thicknesser on this side of the pond (the correct name I add) is a planer for our cousins in the Americas. (Right, that's enough of this multilingual nonsense).

I did use a hand plane, actually I used three hand planes. I started with the No7, changed down to a No6 and then to round the session off nicely I gave the No5 a little exercise. Why the changes N0legs?? Well, it was a nice day and I decided.......... Carp! 
Bloodly blunted them all on the iron, oops, I mean ash.
Without opening up that can of worms, you know the one? Enjoyed by some, hated by others. The "S" word, shhhh. I can get a decent edge on my tools, not decent enough so it seems. Oh well, I'll have some more practice now I have three to sort out. 
I do like a No7, I like the weight, the length and most of all I like, and some of you may or may not agree, I like the ease of a No7. It makes squaring up and flattening out so blooming easy. Well it does if the blade's nice and sharp!!

Being completely honest with you all, I only got so far with the hand planes. The need to get another stage completed was high up on the priorities list, so I was getting this timber dimensioned today no matter what. My love for the No7 comes in third place, behind electricity and the family. 

"Electricity", say it,,,, go on try it? 
E-L-E-C-T-R-I-C-I-T-Y. Exciting isn't it? Tingles don't it? Feels strong and powerful, yes? 
Thank God, the stars, Buddha, Thor, Zeus, Venus, Poseidon, Lassie, Black Beauty and the King and Queen of Sweden. Seriously, thank the heavens for electricity and all the wonderful tools that feed from the font of volts and amps. Because dear reader without it I would not have got to this stage today. Having my fair share of bumps and bruises, collected on my passage throughout this life, I was getting right royally tuckered out. 
Anyway, I've gone and got the pieces of ash to where I want them. They're both over length by an inch, I'm aiming for a 24" wide pair of jaws with either 20" or 18" between the threads. The front jaw is 1.5" thick, the back is 1 and 7/8" thick and they're both at 5" high/wide. There will be a mixture of religions (mm and ") here and there, I'm a little wonky like that. 

I'm sorry but I've lost the pics from this stage  

Saturday.
Managed a couple of hours play today, watched the F1 and then got my ass down the shed.
Plan in mind was to get the "jaws" cut to length and get some of the holes drilled.
With a bit of luck I discovered a virgin blade for the table saw, 48 tooth, so fitted that and got on to cutting. Sorry no pics of this but you all know what cutting a board to length looks like.
The rear jaw was cut to length with 90* edges and on the front I cut the ends at 85* or if you prefer 95* (or if you would prefer even further with a 5* bevel, I don't mind you choose).
So very well pleased with myself, little things mean a lot, I set to with some marking out for some holes. Just a couple of holes in the front jaw for where the metalwork passes through. 
Because I "found" a pair of oilite bushes (18mm ID 24mm OD) I drilled the front out to this (24mm) diameter. This was tackled with a nice new forstner and the pillar drill, two nice clean holes were the result on 18" centre. The bushes are a very very nice snug fit. No need to belt them, in just a firm push, LLLLUUUSSHHH!!! I expect this to change when I get some finish on the woodwork, but hey ho!








With this little hurdle now somewhere in the distance it was time for a little work on the rear jaw. 
The setting in position of my retained nuts was the activity. I do like setting my nuts.
I had made a circle cutting template a few weeks back for use with the router. The template tells it's own story. 
Quick question, does anyone else write down the cutter and guide bush sizes just in case for future use? 
Anyway, with the aid of a guide "bobbin" that I had turned in the week, the template was set in place and secured with some double sided tape and one clamp for some extra security. 
Quick tip, I use double sided tape on top of masking tape. Press the masking tape down hard. 
Another quick tip, most tapes are pressure sensitive, ie, the harder you press the better it sticks. If they're any use to you take them, they're free. If not, just ignore. With the DS tape on top of the masking tape you avoid that horrible job of removing the DS, done it loads of times works a treat.






















With the router two neat little recesses were cut for the washer part of the nuts to sit in. Hopefully these are set deep enough so as not to mark anything I clamp up later on.

While the router was out I changed bits and rounded over the rear of the holes in the front jaw. Quick buzz and the tiny teeny weeny breakout was taken care of






How the day ended  







Fast forward to Tuesday.

Afternoon in the shed/studio/theatre of dreams/sanctuary/den of inequity/other office/workshop.

So on to some more drill work on the rear jaw. I needed to cut two recesses for the nut part of the retaining nut???
I drilled a 25 mm hole to the depth required then through drilled with a 19 mm bit so the threads can pass right through. Shaped the round holes to a hex shape and we're in business. 







Next bit was drill for the stainless countersunk screws that would retain these back nut contraptions in place. This went without any incident, which was nice. 
On first fitting the screws stood a little too high, not massively proud but enough to annoy me. I got my own back on them by sanding down their heads a little. There's a few people who need their heads sanding, but we'll save that for another day and it's probably classed as GBH anyway. Let's hope not eh?
Anyway, all I set out to do I did and I'm one happy bunny.






Time for coffee and a smoke. 
The good woman had just arrived home from work, so my timing was immaculate.
Due to getting myself "proper sorted" today (kids speak is rubbing off) I did a few chores and had bought, prepared and was in the process (despite my absence down the shed) cooking dinner. Equals happy good woman, equals brownie points being bestowed on yours truly. 
So after above mentioned coffee and a smoke I continued with a little bit more.
I had bought some beech along with the ash and the intent was to use this beech as a rear ledge/shelf/extension on the rear jaw. This vice is going to be a little like a mini bench. It's not a big extension at the rear but it will aid (I hope) things like laying out dovetails etc.
The beech had gone through the thicknesser the other day, so all I needed to get done was some cutting to length and jointing up the edges. Sorry once again, phone had died, so no pics of this. 
With the necessary done, a little cascamite was mixed and a little glue up was done. I now have a beech board approx 7.5" by 25".







Wednesday, once again playtime.

Today's adventure centered around getting my glued up beech board flat and cutting then fitting two sliding dovetails of oak as:- 
a, reinforcement.
b, little "lifts/spacers" to keep it up (ooh er missus) off the bench.

So first things first I flattened out the top. The pieces were flat and square to start with, but lately I've been doing away with the usual biscuits and just gone for a rubbed joint. Well sometimes I achieve success, most of the time to be honest, but this particular time we had a little failure and ended up with a few little steps at the joints. Thankfully the thicknesser and her new blades remedied my faux pas. And for a change with only a tiny teeny weeny little snipe, honestly, which is on the underside anyway. What you loose in one place you win back in another. Maybe I am Earl?? Nope, I'm n0legs.

After a little marking out, mainly deciding where to put them, I cut the female part of the joints. 
Well,,,, well, you know how you do your best to get it all nice and square and clearly marked out all accurate and such? Well I completely ignored all I had done with that regard and plonked the clamp&guide thingy away from the bloody line :evil:   (By now you all know how I am don't you? Really calm and good natured like! You can imagine the colour of the air,, Yes?? Enough said) 
Best part though it was pretty parallel to the line, so we went with it. Luckily the design, (Ha! design my pineapple) could absorb this happy little accident :lol: 






With renewed care I cut the other one and moved on to cutting the male parts.
I've had this bit of oak kicking about for ages, so today it met its destiny and became part of this project. Thankfully without even so much as murmur of any impending incident, I crept up on my marking out for a really nice smooth fit. Oh, by the way I did this on the router table, just moved the fence back a little each pass until we got there.






I gave the board a quick sand (removing the evidence more like :-$ ) and gently sanded the oak dovetails on their sides. 
Mixed a little glue. Yes I've glued them in, what will be will be, inserted and clamped into place.











Thus ended another successful day on this little project of mine 

If you've got this far you've done well, I'll try not to leave it so long until the next chapter.
Thanks all, much love n0legs


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## MattRoberts (9 Sep 2016)

Coming along nicely! And it's not a mistake - it's creative license...


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## Bm101 (9 Sep 2016)

MattRoberts":1op3gmmu said:


> Coming along nicely! And it's not a mistake - it's creative license...



Amateur. It's 'Marketplace Research and Development Strategy' . 
 
Looks very smart Nolegs.


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## n0legs (9 Sep 2016)

MattRoberts":2a8h7elt said:


> Coming along nicely! And it's not a mistake - it's creative license...



Is there a fee for a creative license? 
I hope not Matt, the amount I use it would bankrupt me :lol:


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## n0legs (9 Sep 2016)

Bm101":k3h8maff said:


> _It's 'Marketplace Research and Development Strategy'_
> 
> Looks very smart Nolegs.




Cheers BM  
I'm saving that one for the next time I'm having a meeting with the boss :lol:


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## n0legs (29 Sep 2016)

Well we're getting close, real close. No sense in holding back now ...........
Yes ladies and gentlemen, by popular demand we have an update.
Been a busy little bunny, oh yes sir I have! But we have made a bit more progress, hooray, on Project Noxom.


Well after getting the beech "shelf" board completed It was time to mate it up with the rear jaw. I wanted a really good connection between the two.
I cut a rebate on the rear jaw to match the thickness of the of the beech. Along with this rebate I decided on a pair of mortice and tenons, the tenons being cut on the oak reinforcements.

Marked up and cut.








Then a pair of mortices cut in the jaw. I cut these by hand, just me, a chisel and mallet. To be honest it was good fun. The morticer would have sorted them out quick enough, but not with as much satisfaction. They turned out pretty good, but by god this ash is hard.






Assembly went well, to be honest I quite impressed myself how well it all went together. The only thing I'm not 100% about was my spacing for the wedges, I dropped the ball a little with my cutting. Anyway, with a good dose of glue and really jamming the wedges in I'm sure of the joint.

















When it had set, cascamite was used so this was quite a while, I stood on it. Not a murmur or any movement, and I ain't no lightweight. Happy boy I am  


The next day, Sunday the 10th I think.
This was to be an easy day, well so I planned #-o 
I set to with cutting off the the excess and wedges from the tenons. Then deciding how much softening of the edges I wanted and exactly how. It's not a hard choice, round over or chamfer, but which one I wasn't sure of. After much deliberation, really, I went with the chamfers. 
Being that this was supposed to be an easy day, which also includes trying to keep it a little quieter, I went with the handtool option. So with plane and rasp in hand (didn't really need it, but was nice to have) I added the chamfers. Really really went well, I'm pretty sure all round they're fairly even and if they're not it's tough :lol: 












I did consider stopping here and packing up for the day, but hell I thought let's get on. So I did, and I'm glad I did. 
Monster sanding session. No not really, a quick pass or two with some 180 and then the same with some 320 and it was all over. What's next me thinks? Well given things have a strange habit of getting dirty down the shed I decided on adding a coat or two of finish. So out with some cheap 2k lacquer, open the doors and run the extractor. 






















Bloody stuff stinks. I should be immune by now, but by golly it's got a scent and a half, just like Pepe le Pew. It is good though, two coats in 30 minutes and it's looking good.
The following day the brass back nuts were fitted with the stainless set screws. No individual pic of these, but I'm sure they'll show up somewhere.

Thanks for following =D>  
Isn't it getting pic heavy? Wow wee, I've taken some pics lately :-s 
More to come soon, over and out for now.


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## Phil Pascoe (29 Sep 2016)

I see you use hardpoint saws - do yourself a favour (if you haven't already done so) and take the lacquer off. Isopropyl will usually do it, all sorts of other solvents will. It makes them so much sweeter to use.


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## n0legs (30 Sep 2016)

A bit more for you folks  

The front jaw has been chamfered all round. I started with the hand plane just like I did for the rear, but along the front the top edge I gave it a large chamfer with the router and bearing guided bit. Being that this was such a wide chamfer, and wanting it to look good, I wasn't quite so confident doing it by hand. 
Hopefully we don't go blasting the saw into it too often. We'll see :roll: 
Gave it a big bad sanding (not really, new blades in the planer remember) and then got some more of my favourite finish on it. How long this lasts given this is a tool I don't know, but it does make it look pretty.

Take a look at the finished product.






While we're working the wood. 
I decided I needed to do something with the adjustment allen key. 
Go on, take a guess. Yup you've got it. I keep losing the bloody thing :evil: 
Now if something's gonna send me into a spasm it's not finding that something. So seeing as I'm getting older and wiser (and partly due to now being banned from Sainsburys for toddler temper tantrums. No, not the kids, mine. I went the whole hog a few weeks back, threw myself on the floor, screamed, shouted rolled around a bit. The good woman just left me right there, in the cereal aisle. The staff took me to the desk and called over the tannoy for my responsible adult to come get me. While I waited they gave me sweets, result)
Anyway enough of that. I made a little storage slot for it on the rear section. To cover up the burn marks (pipper pipper damn!), I painted it black. Quick fix, nice.












My Noxom Vice is to be used as and when, it won't be permanently fitted to the bench. I've wanted this from the start, to be able to fit and remove easily and quickly.
Well as you might have guessed I've actually given absolutely no thought to this aspect of this project.....
Well not to worry dear friends, I'm a "cross that bridge when we get there" kind of guy. This attitude generally works out fine for me. There have been times when it hasn't, but I'll need my solicitor present to tell you more.

I've seen that many use a pair of holdfasts to keep their vice in the required position, but I don't have that kind of bench (it's an excuse I'll use on the good woman in time, wink wink!) So what's a boy to do?
Well given my hands on nature and I've thoroughly enjoyed using a lifetime of skills on this, we've welded, soldered, machined (sort of), filed, planed, morticed etc etc, I thought lets make something.

The easy option was to buy a pair of bolts. Yes easy, cheap, quick, but no.
The easy option would have been to buy a pair of big wing nuts, but no (that bit will be relevant later).

I wanted something:-
1, I'd made myself.
2, Looks good.
3, Strong and functional.

The n0legs solution!

I decided to make a pair of shouldered retaining bolts. 
Brass was the choice, for the look and ease of working. A bit of brass 30mm dia was sourced and work on it was started.
To create the shoulder I obviously needed to reduce some of the diameter. Turning any material when you don't have the correct tools gets interesting, so other avenues need to be trekked. 
Rather than struggle, "machining" the excess material away (my poor turning chisels will never forgive me), I used a hole saw to assist me in removing some of it. 

Centre drilled.






Then a 6mm hole was drilled.






Then the hole saw was employed. Depth required marked with some tape.






A hacksaw removes this ring of brass.
















The shoulder was squared up with a few files.











The piece was drilled and tapped for a 12mm thread. This shouldered piece was given a sanding and then "parted off". Turned around, back into the chuck and finished up. Turned out pretty damn good I think.

















The next stage involves one of my favourite jobs, a bit of soldering. Earlier in the thread I've mentioned how it's done, so no need for a repeat. Except this time, because I'd already really cleaned up these pieces, I decided to use some plumbers black to keep the solder where I wanted it, and avoid a hell of a job removing the inevitable overspill. 
Plumbers black is masking tape for solders. It's made of lampblack (soot) , you spit on it or add a drop of water. Brush it on, allow to dry for only a few minutes and then get soldering. 
I'm losing it,,,,,,, I haven't said what I'm soldering. 
I'm using some HT 12mm studding for my bolts. To keep it all together I decided to solder the brass heads to the studding. Loctite is easier and superglue is even easier than that, but they're not fun like soldering. 
Soldering was started, finished and thanks to the blacking clean up was nice and easy.
These bits are now finished, complete, finito, done, didded. 


























With only a few daylight hours left :lol: , I set to with some blue sky thinking about wing nuts over my favourite beverage and a smoke.
After much deliberation I decided I don't like wing nuts. Bit of a problem we have there then don't we?

I checked out the remaining brass and decided there was enough left over to do something with. I decided I'd try and make a pair of hand nuts, so it was back to the lathe.

First the brass was drilled then tapped for M12. I didn't take any pics of this stage, sorry. 
Whilst doing the drilling etc, I was pondering how tight I was going to be able to tighten these things by hand. I figured I'd get them tight, good grip, but I wasn't digging out the torque wrench for any testing. 
For the shaping and cleaning up part I was going to use some of the studding as a mandrel. With the brass wound onto the mandrel I had a go at winding it up tight, not bad. Not too bad at all, but it could be better. I needed a quick fix for this, there was no time for skin slip tests and grip psi measurements. 
Have a smoke. 

In the past when I've gone to my mates workshop to play with his toys I have parted with cash and bought a few bits and bobs for use up there. One of the things I bought was a knurling tool. You might know where this is going. We'll come back to this in a minute.

Shaped the brass with some files and the odd turning tool. I've got to make it up to them, they've had a hammering. Then split the bar in half.
Smoke time, again. 
Whilst sat down I weighed up the knurling tool. Well, thinks I, "I reckon I can hang on to this well enough to use it". So I did.
Carefully, (yea now's the time for some H&S) I pressed the tool to the spinning brass and moved side to side. 
We have a knurl pattern gentlemen!
It's not super deep or for that matter super grippy either, but it is better. Quite a bit better. When friendy-friend-friend gets his lathe repaired or replaced I'll take them up and do them properly.












Looking good I think.
With the bolts.






The last stage is nigh.

All I have left to do is drill some holes in the rear "shelf/ledge" for the bolts. This was pretty straight forward. Some marking out, a pilot hole or two and away we go.
A 30mm forstner bit first for the head of my bolts. A 3/4" auger bit for the waist and a 1/2" auger for the threaded portion, I won't bore you with pics.
A trial fit, followed by a light sand around the edge and a coat of finish and we're done. 
Yup, that's it it's done. 
Some pics.

















There's no more to do now except use it. 
I've got a few ideas for some dog holes and dogs, but we'll see. One idea I have is using some cap head screws, fitted flush when not in use and wound out when needed, very much like David Barron's dovetail right angle jig. 
I might. I might not, not sure yet but it won't end up like a Swiss army knife :lol: 
It would only involve drilling a few holes, counter boring and tapping them for my chosen size. Two in the face of the rear jaw and then two in the rear shelf, bang on inline with each other. 
Wind out the screws to act as stops, push up component (drawer side etc,) to screws, clamp vice shut. Wind out upper screws, push the other part against the screws and mark up the joint. It's easier in my head as an idea than explaining it. If I go ahead I'll do a mock up first so you can see where I'm going.

Here all done.






Thanks to all of you who have followed, read (and wondered no doubt) and commented. This one has been a fun project for me and I hope you've all enjoyed my thought processes, ramblings and activities :lol: 
What's next?? 
I'll think of something :wink:


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## AES (1 Oct 2016)

Well done "n0legs Noxom"!

=D> 

Really enjoyed the posts, the pix gave a ringside seat, and the result is definitely something to be proud of.

Thanks for the posts.

AES


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## Bm101 (1 Oct 2016)

=D> Brilliant mate. Fantastic work and result and a great read. Cheers for sharing, I've learnt a fair bit over the course of this wip too, so thanks. Well done fella, you'll be proud of this one I'm guessing. :wink: 

ps: I spent an hour or two looking for my assorted allen keys last weekend too. In the end I bought a new set of wera because I never did find them. Now when I lose the new ones I can say 'Wera my ******** allen keys now' and with a little grammatical inflection it'll be_ both a statement and a question_. I might have created a paradox. So that's nice. Let's hope the Universe doesn't collapse. :| 

Cheers noLegs.
Chris


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## MattRoberts (1 Oct 2016)

Lovely project, nice one! Came out looking fantastic, and love the custom made brass bolts and other touches


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## n0legs (1 Oct 2016)

AES":3ops6wor said:


> Well done "n0legs Noxom"!
> 
> =D>
> 
> ...



Thanks for the support, it's been emotional :lol:


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## n0legs (1 Oct 2016)

Bm101":33w5d4cc said:


> =D> Brilliant mate. Fantastic work and result and a great read. Cheers for sharing, I've learnt a fair bit over the course of this wip too, so thanks. Well done fella, you'll be proud of this one I'm guessing. :wink:




You've learned a bit?? Oh Christ! I hope not :lol:
No, seriously, if nothing else it shows possible ways round possible problems. 
Yes mate I'm really pleased with it.
Thanks Chris  



Bm101":33w5d4cc said:


> [/i]. I might have created a paradox. So that's nice. Let's hope the Universe doesn't collapse. :|
> 
> Cheers noLegs.
> Chris



I worry about you 8-[ :lol:


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## Phil Pascoe (1 Oct 2016)

Bm101":1n0besz3 said:


> =D> Brilliant mate. Fantastic work and result and a great read. Cheers for sharing, I've learnt a fair bit over the course of this wip too, so thanks. Well done fella, you'll be proud of this one I'm guessing. :wink:
> 
> ps: I spent an hour or two looking for my assorted allen keys last weekend too. In the end I bought a new set of wera because I never did find them. Now when I lose the new ones I can say 'Wera my ******** allen keys now' and with a little grammatical inflection it'll be_ both a statement and a question_. I might have created a paradox. So that's nice. Let's hope the Universe doesn't collapse. :|
> Chris



Wera my Allen keys? ... Wiha! I've found them?


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## Phil Pascoe (1 Oct 2016)

Nice one, N0legs, I'd be 'fraid to use it.


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## n0legs (1 Oct 2016)

MattRoberts":1fzghtvn said:


> Lovely project, nice one! Came out looking fantastic, and love the custom made brass bolts and other touches



Hey Matt, cheers mate  
Thanks for the comments =D> 
The bolts are something I'm really pleased with.
I'll post a pic or two in a week or so showing it in place. I'll add a little report on how the bolts and it work, some minor alterations need doing to it's intended location.


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## custard (1 Oct 2016)

Looks really good, very neat and professional. You must be well pleased with that and rightly so!

=D>


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## n0legs (1 Oct 2016)

phil.p":3a9vzyoz said:


> Wera my Allen keys? ... Wiha! I've found them?



Very good :lol:


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## n0legs (1 Oct 2016)

phil.p":29swxhhb said:


> Nice one, N0legs, I'd be 'fraid to use it.



Cheers Phil my friend =D> 
Yes it's very much like that at the moment, it's the prettiest vice I've ever owned and I really don't want to mark it.
But needs must  :lol:


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## n0legs (1 Oct 2016)

custard":1b7dkuae said:


> Looks really good, very neat and professional. You must be well pleased with that and rightly so!
> 
> =D>



Thanks Custard, thanks very much =D> 
I've just got to do it some justice now with some decent (or better) work on some projects I've got coming up [-o< :lol:


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## n0legs (2 Nov 2016)

The Final Update

I had always had a spot for this to go, but it needed a bit of an update and tidying up  
I recovered my bench with some 18mm ply. I ran some wood, (stillage/packing case from some plant), through the thicknesser for an edging.
Two holes were drilled in the front face and lined with some copper pipe. These allow the threads to be wound in or out to suit the material being clamped.
With the rear section in place, two holes were marked for the hold down/fixing bolts to go through the bench top. A pair of Oilite bushes were used to make a neat job of these holes.
A couple of coats of 2K lacquer complete the bench refurb.

The Moxon fits solid and works (well for me) perfectly. The first couple of trials with it really show why these are so popular.
Place the material, wind up the hand wheels and off you go. Having something clamped over 2 feet (600 mm in new money), makes for a really rigid workpiece. I bet an even longer one is a real treat for big pieces. 
Just got to get some projects done now  

A couple of pics, thanks all


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## AES (2 Nov 2016)

Well n0legs, I'd say you've more than got yer mojo back!

It looks VERY neat and highly professional, and as said by someone else, if it was me I'd definitely not use it - just mount it in a glass case in the sitting room! (After all, if people can do that dead fish & stuffed birds, why not with a piece of high class work like that?)

Much enjoyed the whole thread of posts and the end result really is something to be proud of. Well done that man.

=D> 

AES


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## DTR (2 Nov 2016)

Great stuff =D>


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## No skills (2 Nov 2016)

Cracking.


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## Phil Pascoe (2 Nov 2016)

No, it's the medulla.


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## n0legs (2 Nov 2016)

phil.p":2c1w2004 said:


> No, pith line.




I didn't want to be taking the pith :lol:


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## memzey (3 Nov 2016)

Great job Nolegs. Extremely well done mate. Gives wood butchers like me something to aspire to.


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## n0legs (3 Nov 2016)

memzey":q582nv2h said:


> Great job Nolegs. Extremely well done mate. Gives wood butchers like me something to aspire to.




Thanks Memzey  
The worst thing you can do is fail and as long as no one loses an eye all is good :lol:


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