# TV corner stand - Completed!



## RobertMP (13 Dec 2007)

After getting some help with the design I thought I'd better post some work in progress pictures.

The design is -






Now made out of 3/4 inch white oak veneered MDF and White oak trims and doors.

All pieces cut with a jigsaw slightly oversize and then machined to size on 3 sides. Last side may need cutting once I allow for the trim.





Until that one day when I make a router table I've mounted my nice new Triton router (from B & Q) in the el cheapo B & Q table. There is a steel plate holding the router rock solid in place. The plastic fence has been thrown and a batten clamped across instead. A 0.5mm thick piece of white sheet metal gives me a stepped fence when I need it 





Table top edge cutter profile.





Sawing off the trim.






The odd bit of damage but nothing deep and plenty of good lengths





Making more trim for the vertical edges





Flat trims and some triangles for the back that I think I might need.





The top and bottom shapes and shelf blanks.





Seem to be making reasonable progress but then it is all easy stuff. No doubt the drawer and doors will take me months!

Need to experiment with joins on some offcuts. Decided against pocket holes as I'm a bit put off by all the holes. Going to try some of those flat pack fixings with pegs and cams as I quite like the idea of it coming apart for handling and I'm sitting at a desk made that way which is very strong. Glue and biscuit joins if all else fails.


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## RobertMP (14 Dec 2007)

More progress today though it does not look much.

Spent ages mitring the trim for the top and bottom






And flat trim for the verticals





tested the stud and cam idea and found it very strong. Had to twist it hard to get it to fail.





Drilled the 15mm holes and packed up for the day.





Seen a bendy posable pipe thing at axminster that comes with nozzles. Think it could be a good idea for this kind of thing. Make do for now.


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## stevebuk (14 Dec 2007)

Hi robert
looks great so far, nice to see things progress, keep up the good work and the update pictures..


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## BradNaylor (18 Dec 2007)

Looking good Robert...

I just wondering though, why machine up all that trim before glueing it on to the edges of the boards? It would be easier and quicker simply to glue a square 20mm lipping onto each board, trim it flush and then mould it with a hand-held router afterwards. 

Cheers
Dan


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## Blister (18 Dec 2007)

Dan Tovey":kc018ezf said:


> Looking good Robert...
> 
> I just wondering though, why machine up all that trim before glueing it on to the edges of the boards? It would be easier and quicker simply to glue a square 20mm lipping onto each board, trim it flush and then mould it with a hand-held router afterwards.
> 
> ...



He cant " PLAY " with all his nice tools if its done like that :wink:


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## RobertMP (18 Dec 2007)

I did consider doing that but was worried about splintering off some of the end grain as I passed the corners. I would have had to do it on the table not hand held as the bearing on the cutter does not actually touch anything on the part of the profile I'm using. Turned out OK anyway.

Quite pleased with the cam and peg things - really strong when locked up. Once it has some feet the slots should allow some air to the underside of the amp.





Started on the doors










Mortices and tenons made the same way as in my sideboard thread.





Should finish the doors today.


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## Evergreen (18 Dec 2007)

Robert

Very impressive. And I have to say that your WIPs are outstandingly clear. It's threads like yours that have caused me to stop buying woodworking mags!

Regards.


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## RobertMP (18 Dec 2007)

I wouldn't take what I do as reference material - I make it up as I go along mostly! 

Didn't get the time I expected today but got on well with the doors

Have to put in a good word for the Triton router - what an easy way to change bits..... and the height adjustment is geat too.





made a groove for the panel in all the pieces. No picture but only ran in between the mortices on the other parts.





I was a bit worried about how much width I would need when I come to fit concealed hinges so I set the panel flush on the back. That will let the hinge hole over run into the panel if need be. Simple rebate cut on the panel edge with the router. Again made easier by the Tritons height adjustment.





dryfit preview 





Light sand on the rails before assembly. Did the panel with the DA





No glue on the panels.


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## RobertMP (19 Dec 2007)

Quite surprising myself with the progress on this project!

Cleaned up the doors





Got the hinges fitted





On to the drawer box





Dovetail saw 






Drawer box and face panel for covering with speaker cloth. Change of plan here as I intend to cut a speaker hole in face and box rather than make a frame face and drawer with sides joined to the face as I drew up. Feel like I know what I'm doing more this way and I like that the after fit face can be aligned once the box is on its runners. need to get some speaker cloth soonish.





Grooved the sides and cut a bit of 1/4" ply for the drawer base. Clean up and glue tomorrow.


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## motownmartin (19 Dec 2007)

Excellent thread Robert, the more we get of these the more we learn.


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## RogerM (19 Dec 2007)

Really enjoying this thread Robert. I particularly like the way you have bought it to life with all the WIP piccies - and lots of great ideas that I can apply to my own TV corner unit that is being formulated in my minds eye at the moment. Keep them coming please!

BTW - it looks like you've nicked my dovetail saw!


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## mailee (19 Dec 2007)

Ah so that's what they call that saw hanging on my wall.


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## DaveL (19 Dec 2007)

Robert,

Another nice looking project and good pictures as well.

I think I would have applied the finish to the panel for the door before glueing the frame, as the panel floats you may find that a line of unfinished timber appears under some conditions. :x


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## RobertMP (20 Dec 2007)

Thanks for the encouraging comments. Glad people are liking the pictures as I have a lot this time!

first problem. 340mm drawer box and 400mm salvage runners... so I got the dovetail saw () out again





Sanded the cut ends square





Superglued (I kid you not) the raw ends together





And the glue held them in line long enough to get them screwed in place - and believe it or not it runs pretty smoothly!





You would have to be looking for the joint





Face panel held in place then clamped and screwed to the drawer box.





Next problem. Kef 'egg' speaker to sit straight in the drawer





Never saw the point in those plastic profile gauge things - until now. I needed the odd curve profile of the egg so I could make a simple rear support. Box of welding rods, a cloth for friction and a weight to the rescue.





Think a plastic gauge would have been easier but this worked  . One rear support once the height is cut down (see last picture)





marked out an approximate oval using paint cans then jigsawed it out.





Preview





In the drawer. Plenty of space left for remote controls and suchlike.





Must get to Maplins and buy some speaker cloth!


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## PowerTool (20 Dec 2007)

Great project,great reading.  
Thanks for taking the time,and all the photos.

Andrew


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## Evergreen (21 Dec 2007)

Robert

Damn cunning use of super glue and then welding rods! Brilliant!

Regards.


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## PowerTool (21 Dec 2007)

Although I've got a couple of profile gauges,the welding rod idea is definitely a "top tip" worth remembering 8) 

Andrew


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## Slim (21 Dec 2007)

Excelent stuff Robert.


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## RobertMP (21 Dec 2007)

Thanks for the comments. I have used the edge of a bench, engineers square and steel rule to plot profiles before so this idea was similar 

Went to Maplins today. No speaker cloth in stock so I will order on line. Means it won't be finished for a while yet but as I was waiting to see if the price of the TV falls in January it will not be a problem really.

I'll come back to this when there is progress to report.


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## woodbloke (21 Dec 2007)

Good project, coming together well. I like the idea of using the welding rods to make a profile gauge...the thought just occurred to me that you could even use something like spaghetti for this, you might need to be a bit more careful though in case some of them broke  - Rob


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## Paul.J (22 Dec 2007)

Cracking project Robert,with great piccys  
How do you get such clear bright photos.Do you use extra lighting.
Paul.J.


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## RobertMP (22 Dec 2007)

I'm a moderator on a photography forum so I do have a bit of experience with a camera 

All were taken with a Canon 5D DSLR with a 24-105 image stabilised lens. No flash - just the fluorescent lights and a bit of daylight from the window. The exif (text showing settings) is in the pictures and can be viewed with an exif viewer such as opanda Iexif (free).

I shoot in RAW format so I can make fine adjustments to the exposure after the event if need be - then convert them to jpegs for posting here afterwards. Sounds long winded but takes seconds.


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## Paul.J (23 Dec 2007)

Thanks Robert  
Paul.J.


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## RobertMP (4 Jan 2008)

Back to work again 

The TV was reduced on xmas eve so I have that now  - and an incentive to get on with the stand.

Covered the drawer face panel with speaker cloth. £1.99 +p&p from Maplin for a 5 foot x 2 ft piece. Finally found something a hot melt glue gun can do - stick material to MDF!






Marked out and cut air flow shots in the shelf





Put sanding sealer on everything and have now sanded it off again and given it another coat





Needed some feet and I had these old table legs I'd saved. The rounded bit was about 68 diameter and I have some 50mm Teflon glides on the way. So out with the parting tool.





Judged the height by eye and all 6 are within a mm (28 to 29mm to be exact). Just need a screw hole through the middle now


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## RobertMP (12 Jan 2008)

Well it is finished 

I chose White Oak as I wanted something not too dark that I could colour to blend in with existing items like the fire surround. I rag applied 1 coat of 'mellow pine' followed by a mahogany applied thinly. Top coat was the gloss polyurethane as used on the sideboard I made. We have grown to like the gloss and it is really tough.





And a shot to show the cupboard doors and drawer. I didn't want door handles so there are finger grips carved into the back edge that you can just about see.





There is a little unused storage space and I will get round to making a small shelf / DVD rack to go inside.

Overall I'm pretty pleased. It has given a very neat solution to holding the kit and looks so much better than the stand that was part of the old TV.


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## OPJ (13 Jan 2008)

This is an excellent piece Robert, I'm really liking some of your recent work.

I like how you've made an effort to extract the dust at its source from the pillar drill, where many of us simply wouldn't bother.  But, what about the router table?? It'd be a shame to make a mess of that lovely Triton...

:wink:


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## RobertMP (13 Jan 2008)

OPJ":1bbb5d35 said:


> This is an excellent piece Robert, I'm really liking some of your recent work.
> 
> I like how you've made an effort to extract the dust at its source from the pillar drill, where many of us simply wouldn't bother.  But, what about the router table?? It'd be a shame to make a mess of that lovely Triton...
> 
> :wink:



I like to see what I'm doing and don't like MDF dust so I made an effort with the dust extraction 

I connect the hose to the port on the Triton for dust extraction and find it works very well. If anyone has a B & Q with one left and does not already own one - get it! Brilliant in a table.


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## DavidE (13 Jan 2008)

Hi Robert,

That looks awesome, the design, making and finish are all spot on. You'll actually have a reason to watch television - so you can admire your handiwork!  

David


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## harryc (13 Jan 2008)

Looks fantastic and great pictures aswell.

And it's nice to see your still young enough to enjoy the pleasures of a Nintendo Wii :lol: 

Harry


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## brianhabby (13 Jan 2008)

Hi Robert,

Thanks for posting this. It has given me some inspiration to do something like this, I'm fed up of viewing all the wires behind the TV and a cabinet like this will cure that problem because they can all be hidden behind.

regards

brian


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## steve tighe (14 Jan 2008)

Nice job,one question though,is there any reason why you've tenoned the stiles into the rails & not the other way round ?


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## RobertMP (14 Jan 2008)

steve tighe":u49ib6ja said:


> Nice job,one question though,is there any reason why you've tenoned the stiles into the rails & not the other way round ?




It never crossed my mind as to right or wrong way to do it!

No one else has commented here or on the forum during the making so I guess it is not that obvious to most people. Looks OK so it is staying that way now :lol:


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## Shultzy (14 Jan 2008)

I must admit I thought it was a personal preference thing as I have seen doors made like yours elsewhere. Is it a bit like - should sides of cabinets go inside the top and bottom or the top and bottom inside the sides?


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## lucky9cat (18 Jan 2008)

Great thread Robert and thanks for sharing it with us. I particularly like the way you used the drawer slides; amazing. Also, I've used the same "quick fix" thingies in some mdf shelves I made for SWMBO - they've stood the test so far.

Cheers, Ted


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