# Parkside Scroll Saw Mod



## donwatson (6 May 2017)

Hi All,
I have been using the above saw for a little over a year now.
I recently noticed the cam action lever at the rear of the machine was not operating as efficiently as it once was and had a look.
The cam lever is pressed steel and the bottom was wearing away. It looks like an easy fix by purchasing a new cam lever but I wondered if there was anything better than buying a new lever every year.
I have been looking at the quick release levers on push bikes as a substitute and the local bike shop come up with a lever that I could possibly use (free). It looks as if I will need to split the frame to see what is inside (while I am in there I will look at fitting a foot pedal).
I will let you all know how I get on.

take care
Don W
Ps I have added a gratuitous picture of my blade storage :shock:


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## Alexam (6 May 2017)

Possibly like this video - www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxHRYPCJtzQ
Malcolm


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## NazNomad (6 May 2017)

Can you not simply screw it in a bit to compensate for that bit of wear?


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## Claymore (6 May 2017)

I have seen someone make a mod on this type of lever by using a large thin washer and cutting a chunk out of one side so you are left with a horseshoe shape and then slide it under the edge of the lever to take up and slackness, it might work with yours Don?.
The bicycle levers have been used on a few videos on youtube (will try and find one for ya) they use them on the rear tension so should sort yours out.
Cheers
Brian


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## donwatson (6 May 2017)

Thanks for the comments guys. The videos I must have seen before and they have stuck at the back of my memory. It looks as if I am on the right track. Now I just need to take the machine apart (hammer) 

take care
Don W


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## AES (6 May 2017)

If it's any consolation at all donwatson, the Einhell machine I had before had a similar system but the over-centre nlever for tensioning was made of plastic (and a pretty rubbishy plastic too). I reckon that keeping with that "system" would have meant buying a new tensioning lever about once a month!!!

In that case I did a bit of "engineering butchery" (before I gave the saw away!!!), and replaced the plastic thingy with a bit of ali bicycle over-centre lever. It worked fine (and still is).

I don't know if that would work with your machine or not though (from the pic you posted, yours looks similar but not exactly the same as my Einhell).

HTH

AES


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## donwatson (7 May 2017)

Thanks AES,
It looks as if I have the general idea. Will need to see if I can make it work


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## novocaine (8 May 2017)

the cam centre on a bike is going to be a bit bigger so you'll need to make yourself a couple of inserts bit basically all you really need to do is knock the pin out of the old one and take the handle off, fit the bottom plate from the bike, fit the lever then replace the pin with an m5 nut and bolt. 
you might need to drill out the bottom plate to fit over your shaft. 

you need an external cam lever quick release, the axle can be unscrewed easy enough with a pair of pliers and a vice to clamp the head in. 

no need to split the casing of the saw apart.


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## AES (8 May 2017)

There you go donwatson - along comes someone who's actually done the job on that saw ("he's not just a pretty face you know!")

AES


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## donwatson (8 May 2017)

I am afraid I have created a bit of confusion here.
My problem is the cam has worn and no longer has the cam action/movement it once had.
I can knock out the roll pin and replace the cam handle but I suspect the problem will occur again.
I will contact Sheppach today for a replacement as that is the name on the manual. I will let you know how I get on.


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## NazNomad (8 May 2017)

donwatson":qk65n920 said:


> My problem is the cam has worn and no longer has the cam action/movement it once had.




... but does it still have ''some'' cam action?

As I initially said, does it not adjust by rotating the lever? Failing that, double-up the metal washer under the cam.


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## donwatson (8 May 2017)

Yes Naz there is still some action and it is usable by adjusting the lever.
I went on t' internet and tried Lidl, Sheppach and Parkside but have not found a source for a new cam handle. Any suggestions.
I am a bit worried about unscrewing the whole cam handle/ rod combination in case I can't get it back in without opening the machine up. Can the rod be screwed out/in without upsetting anything ?


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## novocaine (8 May 2017)

I'm afraid you missunderstand me too.  perhaps we should stop all this misunderstanding. lol
heres a picture of a typically QR skewer with an external camlock. 




the bit I've pointed an arrow at is the bottom plate. it has a HDPE piece in it for the cam to act on. that bit goes means you get a nice smooth cam action and no real wear, you might need to drill the hole a bit because it's normally only on a 4mm shaft. 
then you put the other bit on the top and jobs a gooden.

but as naz said, turn it clockwise to tighten whats there and you'll most likely find it works again.


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## donwatson (8 May 2017)

I'm afraid I've misunderstood the misunderstanding  
I was wondering if I could unscrew the existing cam rod to let me see what length it was and what thread. ?
If I could do that and screw it back in place without having to split the machine I could maybe fit this in it's place if the thread suited ?


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## AES (8 May 2017)

As said before Don, I don't know this particular machine, but if I may say so you seem to worrying un-necessarily about "splitting"the machine then not being able to put it back together again. My own approach has always been "if someone put this thing together then there's a good chance I can strip it, then re-assemble it OK" - and don't forget in the case of your machine, there's a strong chance the person who put your machine together was a partially educated Chinese coolie working for a handful of peanuts and a banana every week! (OK, but you know what I mean)!

By all means look VERY carefully at the bits and pieces BEFORE you start "attacking" it with tools, and if necessary make sketches and/or take pix. And before you start, fix yourself up with a few little cardboard boxes or something similar, marking them, and the parts, as you remove them one by one. Then put all the parts that make up the different subassemblies into separate (marked) boxes.

But your machine is not all that complex really, and provided you attack it slowly, with care and forethought, you (and the machine) won't come to much harm.

And as an aside, don't forget that the over-centre "cam" itself is just an ordinary circle - the only difference between it and a "normal" circle is where the "centre" pivot hole (which is not exactly in the centre of course) is located in relation to that outer "cam circle". The distance between the centre of the pivot hole and the outer circle of the cam is the movement dimension you're wanting to reproduce. (And if it's basically the same idea as my old Einhell, although that dimension is fixed in one way, it is also adjustable - by means of screwing the whole cam assembly up and down the threaded rod).

HTH, I'll keep out of this one now, 'cos as said, I don't really know your machine (though it looks to be a very similar - dreadful - arrangement to my Einhell).

Good luck, just give it a go, if a Chinese coolie couldn't break it you'll have to work really hard to break it)!

AES


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## novocaine (9 May 2017)

in short, it might but it probably wont wont work.  
different thread I'd have thought. the skewer is m5x0.8 I'd suspect the thread in the saw to be m6x1. 

most annoying. 
you could always cut a slot in a penny washer and slip it under you current lever. or do away with it completely and fit a turny nob.


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## donwatson (9 May 2017)

Thanks again all,
I have decided to fit a turny knob. Seemples.
I was turning the cam lever anyway as I replaced blades (hammer)


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## novocaine (9 May 2017)

an excellent approach, and good use of technical terms.


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## donwatson (11 May 2017)

Finally got round to the shed today and tried to unscrew the cam lever/rod from the saw. It won't come out, it seems to jam hard after unscrewing a few turns.  
I did find the WDS catalogue and they have a a couple of answers to my problem, a 6mm tapped cam lever and a 6mm tapped Hand Nut.
I can run a 6mm die down a short way on the existing rod and jam the lever or nut on top.
That should do the job ??


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## novocaine (12 May 2017)

only if the shaft takes the thread. I'd want at least 3 threads in contact. 
wonder if it's got a c clip to stop you taking it off completely by mistake. ok, now is the time to open up the machine. 

remember to unplug it.


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## linkshouse (12 May 2017)

Don,

Sorry, I don't know why the penny didn't drop on this sooner...

Have a look at my old topic - https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/record-saw-losing-blade-tension-t97942-15.html

I'm afraid it ended up quite long but if your machine looks similar to this, and I suspect it will, I have a brand new Record "turny knob" and shaft assembly that you would be very welcome to.

You will see in that thread that NazNomad kindly sent me a part from his old SIP saw that looks very much like yours and it fit straight into my Record scrollsaw without any modification.

After effecting that repair, Record sent me a new replacement for their original part and I still have it.

Look at the photos in the my thread and if you think it will fit just PM me your address and I'll happily post it on to you.

Regards

Phill


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## NazNomad (12 May 2017)

So the moral of the story... buy a 2nd hand Delta and all your problems go away.

You know it makes sense.


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## donwatson (12 May 2017)

Thanks for the latest round of suggestions. I emailed WDS yesterday asking for a quote for the 2 pieces I am interested in but they have not yet replied.  
@ novocaine, I reckon I could get around 12-15 mm of thread on the rod, enough for a lock nut as well as the handle.
@ linkshouse, thanks Phill PM sent
@naznomad, I wish


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## linkshouse (12 May 2017)

NazNomad":d0ssigrv said:


> So the moral of the story... buy a 2nd hand Delta and all your problems go away.
> 
> You know it makes sense.



That was my final solution.

I love my Delta but feel it is showing signs of wear. I definitely couldn't stand a pound coin on the table with it running.

I wish I could easily source spares to give it an in depth service because I really do love it.

Phill


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## Claymore (12 May 2017)

linkshouse":25k5xaul said:


> NazNomad":25k5xaul said:
> 
> 
> > So the moral of the story... buy a 2nd hand Delta and all your problems go away.
> ...



Do all the Delta scroll saws have round tables? just wondered as everyone i have seen has a round one, I prefer to have a large table size to help support larger pieces of wood. The Delta's certainly get good reviews.

Cheers
Brian


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## donwatson (12 May 2017)

A quick update chaps, WDS has quoted their cam lever at £3.60 but with handling ? ? P&P and VAT the total is £16.40 :shock: :shock: 
I am afraid that is a no-no.
I will get out my recently acquired SIP RSS 16G and give it a going over while waiting
Thanks for your PM Phill


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## AES (12 May 2017)

@linkshouse: Phill, you wrote, QUOTE: I love my Delta but feel it is showing signs of wear. UNQUOTE:

I don't know the machine, but bearing in mind its good reputation for quality, I bet you could buy "off the shelf" spares for it (e.g. plain bearing bushes or ball bearings for the arms and other pivots). Or even get someone to make some for you.

AES


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## loftyhermes (13 May 2017)

I love my Delta but feel it is showing signs of wear. I definitely couldn't stand a pound coin on the table with it running.

I wish I could easily source spares to give it an in depth service because I really do love it.

What parts are you looking for? 
happy scrolling
Steve


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## linkshouse (13 May 2017)

loftyhermes":20c43cj6 said:


> I love my Delta but feel it is showing signs of wear. I definitely couldn't stand a pound coin on the table with it running.
> 
> I wish I could easily source spares to give it an in depth service because I really do love it.
> 
> ...



The main (centre) bushes in the top and bottom arms are slightly worn and these look to be pressed into the arms so would effectively require new arms I'm thinking, but the main wear is in the rear linkage and the associated pivot screws. The screws are worn nearly 30% of the way through and the holes on the linkage are oval.

Regards

Phill


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## loftyhermes (13 May 2017)

Phill, I've replaced the rear link and screws on mine, the linkage I drilled a piece of steel the same size (well close enough) with a 6mm hole and ordered some shouldered bolts 6mm - 5mm x 16 off ebay from these guys, gwr fasteners, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Socket-Should ... O9K8L6Yzmg 
The main pivots have a little bit of play in them but not enough to worry me at the moment.
happy scrolling
Steve


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## AES (13 May 2017)

That certainly sounds like a good solution.

Also, DEPENDING on what material those arms are made of, it should be possible to drive the old bushes out with a drift of suitable size, but PERHAPS cold, especially if the arm was warmed up (I won't say heated up) first - I'm thinking of "too hot to touch" type heat, but not much more, IF the arms are some sort of cast alloy.

AES


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## linkshouse (14 May 2017)

loftyhermes":xwivzzaq said:


> Phill, I've replaced the rear link and screws on mine, the linkage I drilled a piece of steel the same size (well close enough) with a 6mm hole and ordered some shouldered bolts 6mm - 5mm x 16 off ebay from these guys, gwr fasteners, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Socket-Should ... O9K8L6Yzmg
> The main pivots have a little bit of play in them but not enough to worry me at the moment.
> happy scrolling
> Steve



Steve,

Thanks for the link. I've ordered some of these and some mild steel for a replacement linkage.

Regards

Phill


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## novocaine (15 May 2017)

AES":1ol8mxkh said:


> That certainly sounds like a good solution.
> 
> Also, DEPENDING on what material those arms are made of, it should be possible to drive the old bushes out with a drift of suitable size, but PERHAPS cold, especially if the arm was warmed up (I won't say heated up) first - I'm thinking of "too hot to touch" type heat, but not much more, IF the arms are some sort of cast alloy.
> 
> AES



freeze spray. cool the bushing instead of heating the arm.


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## AES (15 May 2017)

Yup, good idea. Or do both. (Just FYI, the same way that pivot bushes are put into big aeroplane landing gears - except the coolant is not a spray can but a flask of liquid nitrogen).

AES


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## novocaine (15 May 2017)

yep, it's how I install bearings too.  anyone would think I was an enginerd or somefing.  
N2 isn't as easy to get hold of as a can of pipe freeze from screwfix though, don't know about you, but I don't have a dewar hanging around my shop and the local place won't sell you it unless you have one, apparantly my thermos flask doesn't count. most boring if you ask me. 

the joy of doing both is that you don't need as much heat to get the same effect, differental temperature is what matters, so warm the arm in an oven or with a heat gun instead of with a blowtorch then quickly cool the bushing and push it out 20-30 degrees C is worth a few thou, which is all you really need.


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## AES (15 May 2017)

Yessir, Mr. Enginerd Sir! Can of pipe freezer works fine for me.

AES


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## novocaine (15 May 2017)

lol, wasn't mean't like that AES. all said in jest, honest. 
does a nice job of seized bolts too, after a few applications.


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## Claymore (15 May 2017)

All this talk of Wizardry is baffling me but very interesting all the same 

Clever stuff guys and love this forum as ya something new everyday!

Cheers
Brian


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## AES (15 May 2017)

Novocaine: "lol, wasn't mean't like that AES. all said in jest, honest."

Yup, I didn't take offence either mate, I knew it was just a joke. (Mind you you'd need a helluva hot air gun to warm up the top of a big aeroplane main landing gear leg!!!!!!!!!).

"Yisterdie, I coulde-na even spel Anginere. Now I are one").  

AES


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## novocaine (15 May 2017)

this count as a hot air gun?






mwah ha ha ha.


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## AES (15 May 2017)

Yeah, they'll do! Want to know what they are (were) and what they're used for now?

Later, SMBOs dragging me off to the shops!

AES


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## novocaine (15 May 2017)

I know what they are, I like the new use, hehe. 
for those that don't it's a kimlov VK-1 from a MIG-15.
the rest, you can wait for what they are being used for now.


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## donwatson (15 May 2017)

Snowblowers ??

@linkshouse, Phill the rod arrived this morning and I will have a look when the rain dies down a bit. (If I hear another cry of "the garden needs it" :x :x 

take care
Don W


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## AES (15 May 2017)

Exactly that. Incidentally, those engines are based on the R-R Derwent (virtually a carbon copy). At the start of the cold war, when UK was still the leader in gas turbine engine technology (yes, even the US got started by developing Whittle's original engines) the Russians thought to themselves, "Well UK will never sell us their engines, but we'll ask anyway". And UK did sell a batch, which nthe Russians then copied! Quite true.

So when the Korean War came along we had UK and Australia (with Gloster Meteors) and the US (Lockheed Shooting Star) all with, basically, R-R Derwent engines, flying against Soviet Mig 15s, also with R-R Derwent (copy) engines! True story.

BTW, when I was a lad in the RAF in Germany we had those as snow blowers. 2 were mounted on a sort of lattice work rig and they were pushed along by a "bowser" (big Leyland or Hanomag 8 wheeler tanker). If you opened the throttles too quickly, either the compressor would stall (engine starts blowing out the front, instead of sucking in) OR you could push the bowser backwards on an icy surface. All good fun.

Where did you get those pix Novocaine?

AES


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## novocaine (16 May 2017)

they are around on the net AES. don't ask how I know about them though. 

fairly sure we sold them something like 40 engines from a promised 100 then pulled out the deal because "merica" said so. those are the VK-1 rather than the VR-1 which was as you said, a carbon copy of the RR nene turbine, they made some improvements, bigger combustion chamber and an afterburner. 

thats enough geekary now, sorry for the thread derailment.


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## AES (16 May 2017)

You're right Novo, too much off topic. Sorry OP, but interesting diversion (for some of us anyway).

How's the scroll saw repair going?

AES


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## donwatson (19 May 2017)

Thanks for the off topic discussion chaps, it helped to pass the time while I sorted this out.
I found a new catalogue at my friendly tool supplier today and my machine is a clone of the sheppach in the catalogue (my machine plate says Made in China for Sheppach0.
I finally ran a 6mm die down the existing rod (after removing the lever of course) and fitted a i.5mm lift 6mm cam lever. Sorry no pic.
I now have some spares to hand namely a 5mm rod and cam lever, a blower pipe from a Parkside scroll saw but should fit most places I think, and a replacement rod and cam lever for a Record scroll saw. All are free to a good home. PM me your address and they are on their way.


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## AES (20 May 2017)

That's a nice offer, thanks Don - but no use to me, though I'm sure someone who can use them will be along later.

And how do you feel about your repair now? Is the saw easier to use now, and can you tension the blade enough so that you get that oft-quoted "ping" (I can "hear" it now!) so that it will cut straight but without the blade breaking every 10 secs?

AES


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## donwatson (21 May 2017)

Thanks AES,
I'm sure someone will take up my offer but I suspect I will need to keep reading this forum in case someone has a problem and has not seen this post.
The saw is not 'easier' to use but I feel better when I am using it, if you know what I mean.
I have a bit of work to do for the clubs that I have membership of and so I won't be able to use the saw for a couple of days but it looks very promising as I get that well known 'ping' when I tension the blade.
As an aside, one of the clubs has 3 scroll saws the latest, a Hegner cost about £900 and when I looked at it last week there was a blade in it and fully tensioned. Some people just don't seem to care.


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