# Table Saw Stand, with extensions



## Geofract (28 Feb 2015)

Ok, this design is a little bit Heath Robinson I guess, but needs must. I neither have the funds or the space for a large TS.

I want to expand the size of my table space, and have designed in extensions that are removable and adjustable. The legs will fold into the base, to make it easier to store. The TS itself will be bolted to a bit of ply, which is then bolted to the table. I will also have height adjusters on the TS, so the top surface can be aligned with the extensions.

The blue feed in/out extensions can be clipped into three different positions, are hinged, and are propped up with adjustable arms. I've made the side of the stand open on the right, so that I can slide the saw into/out of position. Also, there's nothing to interfere with the fence being used on the right hand side, which is useful. The dark grey items are bits of steel hardware. I think I can use hardware for reinforcing joists with a little luck. At some point I will convert the end of the table into a Router table.

So far the plan is to build it all from C+ Grade Elliottis Plywood, 18mm, laminated into extra wide parts where necessary. I haven't worked out how much materials I need, but hopefully I can build this out of an 8x4.

I would love a TS which didn't require any of this setup, but sadly it's not to be. On the plus side, I can use this setup to work outside in the good weather, which would be nice!

All comments and crits welcome. I haven't finalised the design, and would be happy to consider any ideas for improvements.


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## Geofract (28 Feb 2015)

FWIW, I'm using glue, screws, and pocket holes to put it all together.


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## Eric The Viking (2 Mar 2015)

It's an interesting idea - I have to do something similar this year. 

Have you left room to get at the adjuster wheel(s)? 
Also, if it's a TS200, you might get longer guide bar extrusion from Axminister, meaning the fence could slide out over your new wooden top.
Are you planning to connect extraction underneath?


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## blackrodd (2 Mar 2015)

Interesting idea, Also, the left side would DEFINITELY benefit from a router table conversion!
Easy to get at etc.
Rodders


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## Eric The Viking (3 Mar 2015)

+1 on the router table thing.

My workshop space has a rough concrete floor, so castors for my existing router table are impractical (it has to be levelled and rock solid). This means it's stuck in the middle of the floor with the p/t, i.e. largely in the way. It's too tall for an assembly table (although it gets used as that sometimes). Putting the router into the saw table would be a very good idea generally.

I'd also take a careful look at working height: my existing, very rough saw table was built by a tall man - over 6'6". I'm 5'7", and you'd think it was too tall. In fact, although I'll drop the height a bit when I make a new one, it's good for it to be fairly high up, both for router use and for the saw. Very often you're checking heights, angles, etc, and need to be close to eye-level with the table to see what's happening. This doesn't apply if you're breaking down big sheet material obviously, but one doesn't do that on a small cabinet saw. 

I have a sneaky feeling that the manufacturers who offer pressed-steel splayed-leg stands as options have all standardised on a specific height because (a) it's the perceived value/cost balance point, and (b) they all come from the same sheet metal press somewhere in China! You rarely if ever see them with properly adjustable legs, although they ought to have them. Nobody wants to pay 1/3 cost of a small, inexpensive saw just for a better stand.

Try a few experiments with packers, to find a working height you like (it will inevitably be a compromise), and go with that.

Thought #3 (I'm dangerous over breakfast coffee!): the centre of gravity of the saw. Again, manufacturers compromise on cheapness of manufacture against perceived value. Extension tables front+back will support lightweight stock, but the propensity to tip over is still there for heavier stuff. You don't need anything complicated - just a strut or two down from the end of the extension to the floor would do it.

E.


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## Geofract (3 Mar 2015)

Thanks for the replies!

Definitely I am up for the router table on the left. Though it may have to happen later on.

My saw is a Dewalt 745. I have checked the clearance for the all the adjuster parts - they fit in, but the angle & height adjustment are obscured slightly - hopefully it's workable, but I can modify if not. I hope the extraction can fit too - I might just need to move a few things around a little.

Eric, re table heights. I planned on around 92cm. I'm 5'9". That's the current height of the saw on a wooden table I have. It seems ok, but maybe could be 95cm - I'll experiment. I have a Workmate that is around 80cm - it's far too low. As for leveling, my TS has little standoff feet on it's tubular frame, which I plan to use as levelers for aligning all the working surfaces.

Good idea about the extensions. I may just make them hit the floor straight off, that will be more stable. The extensions can be detached and put away when not in use, so hopefully shouldn't be too much of a pain.

Cheers all,

G


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## Swede (26 Jul 2015)

Geofract":2ppq6iag said:


> Thanks for the replies!
> 
> Definitely I am up for the router table on the left. Though it may have to happen later on.
> 
> ...


First post 
I find that it's easy to underestimate back problems and would definitely go for 95cm


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