# Long Router Bits



## Esox Lucius

Hi

Can anyone tell me if it is possible to buy router bits that would have a cutting depth to about 1 3/4 inch in depth or slightly more?

I am trying to make a hole with a 10 inch diameter in some 3 inch thick oak.

Or has anyone got some other advise that would make it easier going.

So far i have used my standard router and bits which cut to about an inch in depth.

Knocked a nail in the centre and tied the router at the correct place and spun it round through the circumference.

My router uses 1/4 inch bits.

Thanks in advance.

Mark


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## jasonB

I think 40mm will be your limit with 1/4" shank cutters even then its a bit iffy. Wealden do a deep pocket cutter that will go to 40mm

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... t_233.html

J


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## Hudson Carpentry

You will need 1/2 really
http://www.axminster.co.uk/cmt-worktop- ... prod20945/

Excuse for a new toy


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## AndyT

If you don't want the excuse to buy a meatier router, would it be possible to drill a fine hole through the centre and work from both sides?


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## jasonB

AndyT":2ru3uuva said:


> If you don't want the excuse to buy a meatier router, would it be possible to drill a fine hole through the centre and work from both sides?




I think thats why he's asking for 1 3/4 as it will go justy over half way, if he were asking for a 3" bit then that would be a different matter.

J


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## Esox Lucius

Yes i have worked from both sides and was left with roughly an inch to get through to complete the full cut. I ended up using a jigsaw to cut the hole totally out.

All i got to do now is tidy the inside of the hole up to make it look something...any ideas on that would be nice?

I do not own a drum sander which i guess would be the way to go.

Thanks

Mark


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## AndyT

A drum sander does not have to be a specialist machine - for a one-off you could use something like this, held in a power drill:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/black-and-decker-black-and-decker-cushion-drum-sander-prod481332/


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## brianhr

If your cuts from each side are smooth and accurate use a template trim such as http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... m_279.html

GENTLY; don't try to remove all the waste in one go!


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## albapa

Hi,

sorry for bumping up an old thread. I would like to flush trim (or rather, edge plane) 2" material. I am wondering if this could be done moderately safely and efficiently with a 1400w 1/4" router. I found "1 pc 1/4" SH 2" Blade Extra Long Flush Trim Router Bit" or "1 pc 1/4" SH 2" Blade Extra Long Straight Router Bit" on ebay (USA seller) that seem, at least in principle, suitable for the job? I would like to avoid the need to buy a 1/2" router. Many thanks in advance for any advice.

Albert


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## Eric The Viking

I think Wealden (http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Router_Cutters_1.html) have long flush trim bits - have a browse over there (I may be wrong, but they DO have long straight two-flute cutters - I have one). I suspect they're 1/2" though.

Generally there's a far smaller choice in 1/4" shank though, and you probably won't get a nice result with a 1/4" diameter cutter, because of the cutter tip speed, if you're actually trying to plane straight surfaces.

Flush trimming involves a template or straightedge and a bearing-guided cutter that runs on said template (to which it trims flush!). Using a router as a surface planer usually means in a router table with two fences very slightly offset from each other (the outfeed aligns with the cutter arc, the infeed is a gnat's further away; they're parallel but not coplanar).

If your router will take an 8mm collet, you might find something, and you'll probably get better results.

All that said, most people round here would probably recommend hand tools if you're trying to achieve a straight flat piece of 2"-wide stock. Given the price of #5 planes on eBay and at car boot sales, it's cost-effective as well as more environmentally friendly!

E.


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## albapa

Thanks for your suggestions.


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## lcurrent

Esox Lucius":3h3oi295 said:


> Hi
> 
> Can anyone tell me if it is possible to buy router bits that would have a cutting depth to about 1 3/4 inch in depth or slightly more?
> 
> I am trying to make a hole with a 10 inch diameter in some 3 inch thick oak.
> 
> Or has anyone got some other advise that would make it easier going.
> 
> So far i have used my standard router and bits which cut to about an inch in depth.
> 
> Knocked a nail in the centre and tied the router at the correct place and spun it round through the circumference.
> 
> My router uses 1/4 inch bits.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Mark


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## AndyT

Electric jigsaw?


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## SammyQ

Bob Wearing tip that I know works:

Engineering bits, slot drills, end mills; much cheaper than branded 'special' bits. I've used both quarter and half-inch shanked end mills and nae probs - PROVIDED YOU GO AT IT GENTLY, METHODICALLY. HSS bits don't like shocks.....  . Beauty is too, you can re-sharpen 'em!

Sam


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## mseries

I came across a company a few days ago selling worktop jigs and extra long cutters for 1/4" routers to use in the jig. I probably have the site bookmarked at home.


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## marcros

SammyQ":1sh6a365 said:


> Bob Wearing tip that I know works:
> 
> Engineering bits, slot drills, end mills; much cheaper than branded 'special' bits. I've used both quarter and half-inch shanked end mills and nae probs - PROVIDED YOU GO AT IT GENTLY, METHODICALLY. HSS bits don't like shocks.....  . Beauty is too, you can re-sharpen 'em!
> 
> Sam



+1. can even get solid carbide ones pretty easily. RGD tools, either direct or through ebay is my preferred supplier.


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## SammyQ

Wot marcros said.....http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/

I find solid carbide even more brittle than HSS...mind you, I'm a clumsy ejit sometimes. 

Sam


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## Tony Spear

Esox Lucius":8hdzziym said:


> Hi
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Mark



Don't tell him Pike!!!


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