# To make a plane



## Dlow (4 Mar 2013)

I have been inspired by posted her and the likes of Konrad Sauer to make my own plane. The seed has been set firmly in my head. so the big question what plane to make first?? My personal preference for a plane is my 51/2 i use this for the majority of my work my other plane used is my low angle block plane. With these two planes I can do almost everything i need. So my though so far.

1 Make a simple small smoothing plane similar to this http://www.infillplane.co.uk/?p=226

OR

2 Make an infill version of my 5 1/2 optimized for everything i use my Stanley for shooting end grain with my shooting board, smoothing and jointing. 45deg bed angle, large side area for use on it side, fine adjuster for the blade etc.

OR

3 A standard sized smother with a high bed angle for difficult grain.



Option 1 sounds the simplest closely followed by 3. but the plane i would most use and love to make would be the 2nd.
I have always been a jump in with both feet and sink or swim kind of person bot seeing sens I think it might be best to start with simple.

Your thought and input most welcome and at his stage required before i take the leep.

David


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## Richard T (4 Mar 2013)

Hello David,

Really, the amount of work between a shorter and longer plane is the amount of cutting out. A short smoother may have five dovetails either side and a longer, no.5 type length may have nine. There is no less brain strain.  

Though what would make a big difference would be to make one like Aled's that you linked to that has sides with flat, parallel tops. This would sit, upside down, on the anvil with no need for support when peining the dovetails. 

Look forward to hearing your thoughts and seeing your progress.


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## vrnin (4 Mar 2013)

Hello dear participants of the forum
I too want to make a plane - a copy of the planer Norris #5
Very much I ask you to answer the owners Norris #5, help, I need the drawings or photographs of a number with a range of
Especially interesting to know what kind of curvature at the foot of
In advance thank you to all
Please forgive me for my bad English, I'm forced to use the program interpreter


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## carlb40 (4 Mar 2013)

vrnin":1mutmhfb said:


> Hello dear participants of the forum
> I too want to make a plane - a copy of the planer Norris #5
> Very much I ask you to answer the owners Norris #5, help, I need the drawings or photographs of a number with a range of
> Especially interesting to know what kind of curvature at the foot of
> ...




If you search on google for infill plane, you can get PDF drawings to make them. Not sure if it is a copy of a Norris plane, but it is a starting point for you 


Если вы будете искать в Google для заполнения плоскости, вы можете получить PDF чертежи, чтобы сделать их. Не уверен, что это копия самолета Норриса, но это отправная точка для вас


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## vrnin (4 Mar 2013)

[/quote]
If you search on google for infill plane, you can get PDF drawings to make them. Not sure if it is a copy of a Norris plane, but it is a starting point for you [/quote]

Thanks for the reply
But I really like Norris #5 I want to make something like it, need a photo beside the ruler
The drawings in pdf I have seen


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## Aled Dafis (4 Mar 2013)

David, I made the "simple" smoothing plane first just to get my head around the details. My advice would be to do the same, I procrastinated for too long as to what I'd make, it's better to get a smaller project under your belt than to spend longer thinking about tackling a larger project.

I started off with dovetails, but the plane made by my students at school is screwed together, and in my opinion a simpler build for a beginner, whilst not comprimising on performance one bit. The screws can be in brass for contrast, or steel so that they disappear into the sides.







Regards
Aled


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## speeder1987 (5 Mar 2013)

What kind of tools do you need to make something like this?

Its something that I would like to at some point in the future. I just have no idea on the investment in tools needed. Is it possible to teach yourself metal working?

Cheers
John


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## carlb40 (5 Mar 2013)

You can teach yourself anything if you put your mind to it 
Just think of it like working with wood only the materials are a bit harder


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## Richard T (5 Mar 2013)

Good engineering vice, pillar drill and drill bits, hacksaw(s) +blades, dreadnought file, assorted files of varying cut, needle files, magnifying glass with stand, good rule and square, scriber, blue marker pen, centre punch, relevant taps and dies with wrenches, clamps, hammer, cold chisel(s), sticking plasters, regular cups of tea and swear box; - you'll pay for it all in no time.


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## Richard T (5 Mar 2013)

vrnin - I would guess that the Norris #5 would have a 7 - 1/2" long sole.

The width of the iron would dictate the widest point at the mouth and the sides would curve back from that point to resemble the 'coffin' shape of wooden smoothers. I don't think there is a formula for this shape - just sketch it out until you're happy. 

I would not recommend building a dovetailed coffin smoother as a first attempt though (or at all actually) - could you possibly live with a #6? Much easier.


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## Konrad Sauer (5 Mar 2013)

Hi David,

Nice to see someone else getting into making their own tools and nice to hear that I may have had a helping hand in getting you there. 

I would also recommend making a small smoother like the one Karl Holtey made/makes. It is a fairly simple design, no overstuffing, square sides and no curves to the sides. It is about as simple as you can get from a process standpoint and uses minimal materials. The most important aspect of planemaking is finding suitable infill material (in my humble opinion). If you don't have the infill material already, start looking now. The best commercial supplier in the UK that I know of is Timberline in Kent. I have been there a few times and they have some very good material. Tell them what you are doing and ask if they have some small old pieces of Dalbergias (true Rosewood) that you could use. You may want to have the infill wood in hand before you start so you can design the plane around the material. That small smoother looks like 8/4 stock would work well. If you cannot find any good old Dalbergias, I think timberline has some genuine Cuban Mahogany - which would also make for a nice infill. I would avoid Ebony as it is very tempermental, rarely dry and will crack on you if you look at it sideways... unless you can find Madagascar Ebony in which case go for it. 

If you are going to dovetail the plane, using bronze sides is helpful because you will be able to see the joints as you are lapping and will give you good information for alterations to the next plane. Being able to see how the material moves when you are piening it and after the fact can be very informative. 

cheers,
konrad


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## speeder1987 (5 Mar 2013)

carlb40":cclfzmq1 said:


> You can teach yourself anything if you put your mind to it
> Just think of it like working with wood only the materials are a bit harder



Yes but some things are much more difficult than others 



Richard T":cclfzmq1 said:


> Good engineering vice, pillar drill and drill bits, hacksaw(s) +blades, dreadnought file, assorted files of varying cut, needle files, magnifying glass with stand, good rule and square, scriber, blue marker pen, centre punch, relevant taps and dies with wrenches, clamps, hammer, cold chisel(s), sticking plasters, regular cups of tea and swear box; - you'll pay for it all in no time.



Thanks, that list doesn't look to bad .... but I bet it would soon start to add up, especially the taps and dies. Got the swear box at least :shock:

John


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## Richard T (5 Mar 2013)

John - this thread may be interesting : 

dovetailed-infill-first-fumblings-t46458.html


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## Dlow (6 Mar 2013)

Richard
Thank you for the advice. I hadn't relay thought about the straight top sides helping when peining that helped make some decisions as for the size i feel this will affect the flatting and finishing efforts so ill have to see how energetic i'm feeling.

Aled
Thank you for the instructions for your small shoulder plane they make very good reading. I am taking your advice about getting started with something of a reasonable size and to get started as apposed to think too long on trying to make it complicated I think at this stage keep it simple will be the key.

Konrad
What an honer. Thank you for the reply. You are definitely the main inspiration when i first saw your blog after looking at Karl Holtey's and what you achieve from "basic" tools inspired me to give it a go. Your advice about the small smother is what I am now thinking. I am fighting the urge to over complicate things by adding too many design details technical additions. Lets walk before we run and not try to re invent the wheel. So iim on the hunt now for a nice bit of wood for the infill i will check out your suggestion and maybe try to make an excuse to head that way with work some time soon.


Thanks again to you all Once I get started I will post some pics of the progress. Don,t hold your breath though as I have some other project needing finished first.

David


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## bugbear (7 Mar 2013)

Is there a "one stop shop" on the net for info on small scale infill making?

I know that various forums at various times have discusssed it in detail (woodcentral had a huge wave of interest a few years back).

Did anyone collate it?

BugBear


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## carlb40 (7 Mar 2013)

Just wondering what would be involved with finishing these off?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Casting-Infil ... 1c2a814291

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Casting-Infil ... 53ec380982

Not sure i have the skills or patience to cut/pien dovetails in metal. Those could be an option if only hand tools can used?


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## bugbear (7 Mar 2013)

carlb40":1a7cthyk said:


> Just wondering what would be involved with finishing these off?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Casting-Infil ... 1c2a814291
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Casting-Infil ... 53ec380982



To the best of my knowledge - a milliing machine.

BugBear


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## carlb40 (7 Mar 2013)

Cheers BB, well guess for me they are out of the running.


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## Richard T (7 Mar 2013)

Depending on the recipe of bronze - filing/draw filing might be an option followed by emery cloth. Also a large disk sander with a table is an option.


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## János (7 Mar 2013)

Hello,

I am an admirer of infill planes, but I have been wondering ever since I first saw them: how on Earth do they cope with wood movement? I have changed workshops a few times over the last two decades, and even my traditional wooden planes caused troubles. 
The infill in a bench plane is wide enough (50-60 mm) to move perceptibly with environmental changes: 1-2 mm of shrinkage or swelling (a few percent) is large enough to cause problems, isn’t it?

Have a nice day,

János


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## AndyT (7 Mar 2013)

carlb40":1okvckzi said:


> Just wondering what would be involved with finishing these off?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Casting-Infil ... 1c2a814291
> 
> ...



I've not read it all (it's rather a long thread with links to others) but there's a discussion here on people's experiences of following the 1889s instructions on how to cast your own plane that are being re-published in the TFWW "Work" magazine reprint project:

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbth...98615&page=4&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=all

I think it must now be the world's most comprehensive treatise on making and fettling plane castings!


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## AndyT (7 Mar 2013)

bugbear":1dnx79b9 said:


> Is there a "one stop shop" on the net for info on small scale infill making?
> 
> I know that various forums at various times have discusssed it in detail (woodcentral had a huge wave of interest a few years back).
> 
> ...



AFAIK the nearest attempt at that is Handplane Central but its forum is a little quiet compared to the Woodnet one I just linked to.


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## bugbear (7 Mar 2013)

AndyT":3flt1qak said:


> carlb40":3flt1qak said:
> 
> 
> > Just wondering what would be involved with finishing these off?
> ...



(chuckle) "Someone" (evidently a helpful soul) put those "Work" articles up on handplane.com, back in 2008.

http://www.handplane.com/291/planemakin ... ing-plane/
http://www.handplane.com/279/planemakin ... ing-plane/
http://www.handplane.com/278/planemakin ... iot-plane/
http://www.handplane.com/285/planemakin ... ock-plane/
http://www.handplane.com/287/planemakin ... ate-plane/

BugBear


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## AndyT (7 Mar 2013)

I think I can guess his name! ;-)

Nice to see it taking off on a wave of enthusiasm third time round though.


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## Cheshirechappie (7 Mar 2013)

János":3ryn8cvs said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am an admirer of infill planes, but I have been wondering ever since I first saw them: how on Earth do they cope with wood movement? I have changed workshops a few times over the last two decades, and even my traditional wooden planes caused troubles.
> The infill in a bench plane is wide enough (50-60 mm) to move perceptibly with environmental changes: 1-2 mm of shrinkage or swelling (a few percent) is large enough to cause problems, isn’t it?
> ...




The answer may be in the choice of timber for the infill. The usual choice was rosewood, which according to 'World Woods in Colour' by William Lincoln is a very stable wood -Indian Roswood (sometimes called Sonokeling Rosewood) Dalbergia latifolia, is 'noted for it's dimensional stability'. So the choice of rosewood as infill may well have been not just for it's beauty!


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## János (7 Mar 2013)

Hello,

Thank you for the reply. The suggested solution seems plausible:

The radial shrinkage of Indian rosewood (Dalbergia latifolia) is only 2,7%.
The radial shrinkage of Brazilian/Rio rosewood (Dalbergia nigra) is only 2,9%

Unfortunately, these species are on the CITES lis of the endangered species, and international trade in them is forbidden, to my knowledge.

But I have seen infills with boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) fills, and the radial shrinkage of this species is 4,6%.
And a few with macassar (Diospyros celebica) fills, and the radial shrinkage of this species is even higher at 5,4%.

Not to mention other exotic woods used as infill.

And the tangential shrinkage is 1,5-2 times higher than radial values, so one must set the infills into place with the growth rings perpendicular to sole, to take advantage of the lower radial shrinkage. But I have seen quite a few examples with other growth ring orientations....

Have a nice day,

János


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## Richard T (8 Mar 2013)

Hello Janos

Apart from the answer to this being "I don't know" ... I can say from experience with English Walnut that I have all my stock sitting in the house and when I cut pieces for infills I cut them over size and leave them oversize for a few weeks before cutting them to fit.


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