# Collection of 3d printing files relevant for woodworking



## Jarno (25 Jul 2022)

Didn't see a thread for this, but given that someone posted excellent additions to his BS400 bandsaw, might make sense to start a collection of interesting links on Thingiverse or comparable sites.

Here are a miter marker and dovetail marker that I did.








Dovetail marker and miter saddle by LFlab


I made a dovetail marker, modeled after the Veritas marker, and did the same for a miter saddle by Veritas. Right now, I only made a 1:8 dovetail slope marker, as that's what I needed, will probably do a few others as well. I used Creo to model these




www.thingiverse.com


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## Jarno (25 Jul 2022)

This is the one for the golden ration divider (which I figured was a lot easier to make with a few strips of oak):








Fibonacci Gauge Golden Ratio - REMIXED by adamky


This is a remix from this design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:391656. All credit goes to user "pilbara". I simply only needed one of these, not 4. Also, the original design did not work well on my 3D printer, since they print vertically as opposed to horizontally. So, I took it down to only...




www.thingiverse.com





Workalike of the gripper pushblock:








GRR-Ripper Clone (Hardware Store Edition) by stevelucky


First things first: this design is based almost entirely on the work of adiasmesquita https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3935950 and Ibravo5495 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4249710. My changes are minor, but nice, IMO. I redesigned this to use more common hardware that should be able to be...




www.thingiverse.com


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## Dr Al (25 Jul 2022)

Here are some of the ones I've already published:

Dovetail saw jigs that guide the saw when cutting *both *the tails and the pins:







Link: Printables


Waste side jigs for track saws:






Link: Printables


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## Dr Al (25 Jul 2022)

Bench dog remover thing for MFT dogs that are a bit tight in the hole:






Link: Printables


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## Dr Al (25 Jul 2022)

Automatic vacuum cleaner starter for cordless power tools (using an off-the-shelf radio-controlled socket thing):






Link: Printables


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## Jarno (25 Jul 2022)

Pretty cool!
Might give that dovetail guide a try, don't use one, but having them fit off the saw would be nice. Also want to try that method with the offset block (Rob Cosman), maybe need to make one myself at work out of a piece of alu or brass.

Edit:
Ack! Despite me searching there actually is another thread on 3d printing woodworking items:








Share your 3D Printed Tools and Jigs


Hi all, I had this idea that it might be useful to have a specific "3D printing for woodworking" thread. I noticed there are more and more woodworkers with a 3D printer nowadays, so having a place to find and share good designs specifically for woodworking might be helpful. Would be easier than...




www.ukworkshop.co.uk


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## pops92 (26 Jul 2022)

Made this ball joint to fit to 40mm hose pipe and my dust hood. Works extremely well for my pen turning.
Available here.








DUST EXTRACTION BALL JOINT by Crustyhead


I designed this to fit onto my dust extractor shown. This for sanding and my pens nothing more it works good for what I designed it for. If you want the 3FD file let me know. The 2 halves are joined by a smear of super glue on the outer edge all round and clamped till dry. This was a first so...




www.thingiverse.com




If you use Fusion 360 and want the f3d file let me know.


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## kinverkid (3 Sep 2022)

For years I have been using a toilet outlet adapter pipe bent into the oval shape to adapt my extraction on my kity bestcombi 2000 planer thicknesser to take it to a 100mm outlet the drop down to a 63mm collar to fit my 63mm system. So while I'm still recovering from my operation (week thirteen) and waiting for six months of chemo starting next week I thought I might get a nice light-duty hobby and got a 3d printer. This is my first design from scratch and I used DesignSpark Mechanical as suggested by another member here. I published it today on Thingyverse.

Bestcombi Adapter


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## pops92 (3 Sep 2022)

kinverkid said:


> For years I have been using a toilet outlet adapter pipe bent into the oval shape to adapt my extraction on my kity bestcombi 2000 planer thicknesser to take it to a 100mm outlet the drop down to a 63mm collar to fit my 63mm system. So while I'm still recovering from my operation (week thirteen) and waiting for six months of chemo starting next week I thought I might get a nice light-duty hobby and got a 3d printer. This is my first design from scratch and I used DesignSpark Mechanical as suggested by another member here. I published it today on Thingyverse.
> 
> Bestcombi


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## pops92 (3 Sep 2022)

Great job. Mine as come in so handy for workshop stuff . Since getting to grips with Fusion 360 there's no stopping


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## Linus (3 Sep 2022)

Quite intrigued by all these and considering getting a printer myself. Any recommendations for a decent 3D printer for occasional use? Also, do they need to be vented outside or can they be used in an office environment?


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## Lorenzl (3 Sep 2022)

I use mine in my study but there is a bit of a smell and of course the annoying noise. Outside in a cold shed or garage would probably not be a good location as the damp effects the filament.

I brought a Flash forge dreamer as I wanted to be able to use a water soluble support material as well - didn't work as well as I would have liked. I also brought a machine that was basically ready to go apart from attaching the head. I was not interested in building my own and setting it up. As in all things some people like building the machine and others just like to use it. The print area is a bit smaller as it is a dual head but you need to decide what you are planning on printing. You can print large items in parts and join.

I remember years ago at work they brought the cheaper ones which were self assembly and always needed adjusting. They didn't have an enclosure either and people were always putting cardboard enclosure around them. This was the other reason for buying the machine I did but it then has two extractor fans on the back!

There are also resin machines which print finer details but it looks like all the parts above are made from filament type machines.


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## TheUnicorn (3 Sep 2022)

I have never owned (or used) a 3d printer, so I don't really know what I'm talking about, however the subject came up recently with some friends and aparently some housing associations explicitally ban the use of 3D printers because of their tendency to overheat and so a fire risk.

Not sure how credible that is?


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## Lorenzl (3 Sep 2022)

I hadn't thought about the possibility of a fire but there is electricity and heat so there is a chance. I have been involved with a few at work and a couple of people I know have them and no fires.
Looking online there are photo's of burnt out printers and this probably applies to the filament versions rather than the resin ones.



> It's rare but _does_ happen, which is why *every single 3D printer manufacturer gives explicit instructions to never leave a 3D printer working unattended*.





> 3D printers because of their tendency to overheat and so a fire risk


I think tendency is a bit OTT.


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## ALB (3 Sep 2022)

TheUnicorn said:


> I have never owned (or used) a 3d printer, so I don't really know what I'm talking about, however the subject came up recently with some friends and aparently some housing associations explicitally ban the use of 3D printers because of their tendency to overheat and so a fire risk.
> 
> Not sure how credible that is?



They're hot things - the hot end of the extruder runs at around 200*C for typical PLA filament. If something goes wrong then they could be a fire hazard if left unattended. But that is *very* bad practice and anyone with a shred of sense will be aware of this, as with any other powered hot device.


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## ALB (3 Sep 2022)

Linus said:


> Quite intrigued by all these and considering getting a printer myself. Any recommendations for a decent 3D printer for occasional use? Also, do they need to be vented outside or can they be used in an office environment?



Depends what you want, as there are a couple of different types. There are resin printers that are good for small, fine detailed things, but a filament printer is more generally useful and they are the most popular. There are lots of entry level options. I have an Ender 3 V2, which is one of the most popular ones. I upgraded it to a larger print bed and added auto-leveling, and it does everything I want.

Resin printers *stink* but filament printers don't need any special ventilation unless you're printing in something like nylon, which requires a much more involved setup.


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## Sideways (7 Sep 2022)

Larger parts on larger machines might take 8 hours to print. I'm sure there are many instances of people setting off an overnight print run.....


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## sy- (7 Sep 2022)

I've done prints that take over 24 hours and this was and is still a concern. if purchasing a 3d printer you should always check it has thermal runaway protection now a days although it is no substitute for supervision!


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## Sandyn (7 Sep 2022)

If a 3D printer has been properly designed and CE/UKCA approved, there should be no more concern about fire risk than any other piece of equipment. The testers, if they have done their job properly, should have identified any risk of overheating and looked for a single failure which might cause a fire.
Not all 3D printers are approved.


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## Lorenzl (7 Sep 2022)

The conservatory roof cover the light is screwed to took about 13hrs for each of the two of the side parts and 8 hours for the middle. They were then glued together, filled and painted.


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## rwillett (8 Sep 2022)

For filament printing the Creality range are good value. The Ender 3 range is a good one to start with. There are new higher spec versions but I have an Ender 3 Pro with magnetic mat. Very good value. 

However I also have a Prusa MKs3+ which is superb but approx 4x the price. Chalk and cheese. Both excellent value for what they do (or at least for me). 

I don’t have a resin printer yet as I’m not sure how strong the resins are for non model playing use. With PLA I can make adaptors for workshop use and not worry too much about strength, ordinary resin appears to be very delicate, wonder for your Star Wars models, not so good for a cyclone adaptor for your CNC machine. 

I’ve just ordered one of my designs to be done in tough resin to see how it fares. 

Rob


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## rwillett (8 Sep 2022)

Sideways said:


> Larger parts on larger machines might take 8 hours to print. I'm sure there are many instances of people setting off an overnight print run.....


Larger prints might take 80 hours 

Most of my prints are 4-5 hours as a minimum and 8-16 hours. I have one job that took 72 hours. I had to ensure that I started with a full roll of filament and watched it through the nights. 

Worse than kids, at least they go to sleep eventually 

Rob


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## rwillett (8 Sep 2022)

Sandyn said:


> If a 3D printer has been properly designed and CE/UKCA approved, there should be no more concern about fire risk than any other piece of equipment. The testers, if they have done their job properly, should have identified any risk of overheating and looked for a single failure which might cause a fire.
> Not all 3D printers are approved.


Some printers have thermal monitoring and protection, the Prusa does. The Ender 3 I have, doesn’t. I watch it carefully


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## Sandyn (8 Sep 2022)

rwillett said:


> The Ender 3 I have, doesn’t. I watch it carefully


As a matter if interest. Is it CE/UKCA marked? I got my 3D printer as a gift, but was a bit disturbed to see it was not CE marked. Many manufacturers use all kinds of trickery to bypass the rules, they cheat.


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## rwillett (8 Sep 2022)

Sandyn said:


> As a matter if interest. Is it CE/UKCA marked? I got my 3D printer as a gift, but was a bit disturbed to see it was not CE marked. Many manufacturers use all kinds of trickery to bypass the rules, they cheat.


I assume not, I can't see anything to inidcate it is. Amazon is utterly useles at managing this/

Rob


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## Lorenzl (8 Sep 2022)

I assume everybody knows about the China export symbol? I suppose it is just a coincidence they look similar.


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## Sandyn (8 Sep 2022)

Lorenzl said:


> I assume everybody knows about the China export symbol? I suppose it is just a coincidence they look similar.


  Yes, it's a complete coincidence. One is an indication the product is safe, the other indicate's it's not. Cheating at it's best.


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## Jarno (9 Sep 2022)

Dr Al said:


> Here are some of the ones I've already published:
> 
> Dovetail saw jigs that guide the saw when cutting *both *the tails and the pins:
> 
> ...


To hopefully pull this thread on topic again, printed the saw guide above this week, and also ordered the magnets


https://www.amazon.nl/gp/product/B074C79DJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Did a few tests yesterday, and that works really well! It does rock left to right a little bit when sawing, might benefit from clamping (but I only used little infill on my print, so I do not think I'll be clamping this one or it'll get crushed). Keen on trying it out on a real project

Also made a 3d printed holder for spirit level vials I bought on Aliexpress a while back. I was struggling a bit on how to use these to make a level, but then I came across a project from Woodsmith which had a wooden adjustable holder for them, so I replicated that in CAD.









Spirit level vial holder by LFlab


Holders for spirit level vials which can be bought from Amazon or elsewhere (think I bought mine on Aliexpress). The following versions are uploaded: 11x55 (diameter x length) 12x100 (big one!) 14x70 These can be screwed to a beam directly, or you can put some springs underneath for...




www.thingiverse.com


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## Ollie78 (9 Sep 2022)

Lorenzl said:


> I assume everybody knows about the China export symbol? I suppose it is just a coincidence they look similar.
> 
> View attachment 143167


Wow. I had no idea about this. I will now be peering carefully at CE marks trying to decipher which it is.

Ollie


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## Andy's Shed (9 Sep 2022)

Ollie78 said:


> Wow. I had no idea about this. I will now be pearing carefully at CE marks trying to decipher which it is.
> 
> Ollie


Me neither, I thought it was a joke at first.


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## Jarno (10 Sep 2022)

Real hard to stay on topic or open a new topic to discuss international trade compliance tactics, apparently 

Here's a length stop I did for a kumiko jig:








Kumiko length stop by LFlab


Length stop for a kumiko angle paring jig. The main block is easy enough to make from solid wood, but I always find making a long mortise in thin material is risky, and labour intensive. There's a risk of the material splitting, also later in use when overtightening the screw. So yeah, easy...




www.thingiverse.com





Quite a simple thing, but I think this works better in plastic than it does in thin wood.


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## Jarno (10 Sep 2022)

Came across these:






Printables







www.printables.com





A collection of cleats to hold Bailey pattern planes to a wall to create a plane till. Pretty cool, printing a bunch of them now.


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## kinverkid (10 Sep 2022)

I have a cross-cut sled with a wide T-Track. I do have a bought flip-stop for the left and thought I might print one for the right side. My design means you can make a left-hand and/or right hand version. I've uploaded it to Thingiverse. Flip-Stop


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## Jarno (16 Sep 2022)

Finally got a chance to print and test these pinch stick holders:








Pinch sticks / Bar gauge holder by LFlab


Print two of these to hold two sticks measuring 4x22mm each by however long you want. To create pinch sticks to transfer measurements without using a ruler. Or check for squareness. Used M4 knobs from Amazon, thread size and length is M4 by about 20mm long (I bought M4x25 and chopped a bit off)...




www.thingiverse.com





I used M4 inserts and knobs from Amazon






Works really well. Did need to plane down the wood sticks. I used meranti 4x26mm, and planed it down to 4x22 (I thought that was a dimension I could get pre-dimensioned lumber in, but not at the store near me).


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## Andsor (2 Oct 2022)

Hi, 
Just printed edge sanding attachment to my RO150 sander. 
Design can be slightly improved upon, but works well right out of the box/printer. 
RO150 edge sanding attachment


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## kinverkid (12 Oct 2022)

Jarno said:


> Finally got a chance to print and test these pinch stick holders:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## kinverkid (12 Oct 2022)

This rotary tool normally hangs over the wood lathe but I want to use it over a workbench now and then so I printed some brackets to fit some round and square metal tubing that I salvaged from a gazebo we replaced a few years back. It's a work in progress though. I want to come up with a more convenient way of un-mounting the motor. It packs some welly so it needs to be sturdy.




Your browser is not able to display this video.


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## DBT85 (14 Oct 2022)

I'm currently working on a solve for the insanse amount of dust that comes off the edge of a new sheet when you clean it up with my TS55. Just as a matter of interest while doing one I held a mug where the dust flies out and it was half full when I'd finished, and I missed a good bit of it. 

My 3d printed masterpiece is on the way and results are promising from the prototypes so far!


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## kinverkid (14 Oct 2022)

DBT85 said:


> I'm currently working on a solve for the insanse amount of dust that comes off the edge of a new sheet when you clean it up with my TS55. Just as a matter of interest while doing one I held a mug where the dust flies out and it was half full when I'd finished, and I missed a good bit of it.
> 
> My 3d printed masterpiece is on the way and results are promising from the prototypes so far!


I don't know if this might help with your design but there is an existing dust cover for two versions of the TS55 on Thingyverse. Festool TS55 tracksaw dustcover by Ladru
TS55 Dust Cover


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## DBT85 (14 Oct 2022)

kinverkid said:


> I don't know if this might help with your design but there is an existing dust cover for two versions of the TS55 on Thingyverse. Festool TS55 tracksaw dustcover by Ladru
> TS55 Dust Cover


Yeah those just cover the blade change hole. covering that up doesn't solve the issue of dust flying everywhere when you clean an edge up.

My solution is to use that hole and the suction that does still come from it to suck the dust up.


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## pops92 (25 Oct 2022)

Linus said:


> Quite intrigued by all these and considering getting a printer myself. Any recommendations for a decent 3D printer for occasional use? Also, do they need to be vented outside or can they be used in an office environment?


If you only use PLA or PETG filament it does not need to be vented. I have mine set up in a spare room and have no problem with smell either. If you intend to put this outside in a garage or similar you need to be aware of condensation on the filament.


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## Dr Al (26 Oct 2022)

pops92 said:


> If you only use PLA or PETG filament it does not need to be vented. I have mine set up in a spare room and have no problem with smell either. If you intend to put this outside in a garage or similar you need to be aware of condensation on the filament.


+1. My 3D printer sits in the dining room next to where I work when working from home. PLA has a bit of a smell to it (although it's fairly faint) so I don't like to run a PLA job when I'm likely to be spending much time in the same room. I can't detect any smell from PETG and 99% of what I print is PETG, so it isn't an issue.


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## pops92 (26 Oct 2022)

Dr Al said:


> +1. My 3D printer sits in the dining room next to where I work when working from home. PLA has a bit of a smell to it (although it's fairly faint) so I don't like to run a PLA job when I'm likely to be spending much time in the same room. I can't detect any smell from PETG and 99% of what I print is PETG, so it isn't an issue.


Yeah will agree on that but the smell is not offensive really. About to try TPU this week as it another filament that's not toxic. PETG is excellent once dialled in. And now I have micro-swiss d/d and belted z axis it's excellent.


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## DBT85 (26 Oct 2022)

Oh that joyous feeling of spending 5 hours on a print of two halves only to try and fit them together only for the tolerances to be too tight. Never mind, it still has use as a prototype.

My design is basically done and functional. Just finalising joining the two halves together.


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## pops92 (26 Oct 2022)

Yeah know what you mean about tolerance. Nearly all mine are functional in the work shop. Producing 2 the same can be a problem. Tolerances are better now I have the micro-swiss and belted z axis.


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## rwillett (27 Oct 2022)

pops92 said:


> If you only use PLA or PETG filament it does not need to be vented. I have mine set up in a spare room and have no problem with smell either. If you intend to put this outside in a garage or similar you need to be aware of condensation on the filament.


If you use your printer in a garage or somewhere similar, you may need to watch the temperature carefully. The filament needs to be at the right temperature to lay the print down, a garage may be a lot colder and may have droughts cooling the bed. 

Depending on how cold it is, you may have issues with first layer adhesion and subsequent warping. 

An enclosure may help but then you have to be careful with the PSU as they normally don’t like being kept hot for hours at a time. 

Nothings easy 

Rob


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## Fidget (30 Oct 2022)

Square of Thales

I designed this in my very early days on Fusion 360 when I really had no idea what I was doing. Looking back at the design, it's a complete mess but it works and has been very useful for reminding me that I can rarely get joints absolutely square!  

I printed it in lurid green so that I couldn't lose it in the mess on my workbench (it's all I had at the time too)

I have just posted the gcode and STL files on Thingiverse if anyone else wants to remind themselves how hard it is to get completely square boxes!


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## MorrisWoodman12 (30 Oct 2022)

Had to look up what a Square of Thales is. Found good ol' Steve Maskrey had a YouTube. 

Looks useful.


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## Fidget (30 Oct 2022)

MorrisWoodman12 said:


> Had to look up what a Square of Thales is. Found good ol' Steve Maskrey had a YouTube.
> 
> Looks useful.



I'm sure that's where I got the idea from. I thought I might make mine a bit smaller though!


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## sploo (13 Nov 2022)

3D printed brackets for Stanley #71 and Veritas router planes. I can provide the STL files for printing should anyone want them.


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## Jarno (29 Nov 2022)

Interesting, certainly interested in the files.


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## sploo (29 Nov 2022)

There you go (I'm currently being too lazy to do a proper upload/submission to Thingiverse, so a zip is attached here).

The #71 holder parts and the top part for the Veritas can print front face down - no supports required, but would suggest a reasonable number of perimeters and fill density for strength.

The bottom part for the Veritas is better printed back face down, with supports for where the plane will eventually go. You could print it front face down but it'd likely need support for the notch for the handle, and so might look messy once removed. I suppose some printers may bridge that gap OK without supports, but I haven't tried.


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## Dr Al (9 Dec 2022)

Track saw parallel guides






STLs (and STEPs) here: Printables


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## Sheptonphil (9 Dec 2022)

I made a wall holder for the denewills remote control holder I use for remote switching of various devices in the workshop. It was always going walk about, but now it doesn’t even get removed from the holder to use it.


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## Sheptonphil (10 Dec 2022)

Also a blade insert for the Jet 16” bandsaw. The stock aluminium one is dire, neves perfectly flat and far too much clearance


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## DBT85 (6 Jan 2023)

Phil have you tried one with holes in to get a bit more airflow though for collection? Or is it not plumbed up?


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## Sheptonphil (Wednesday at 15:03)

DBT85 said:


> Phil have you tried one with holes in to get a bit more airflow though for collection? Or is it not plumbed up?


Yes, it is plumbed in for 4” collection below. It seems to take all the dust through the blade slot. I think cos there’s very little clearance, dust doesn’t drag under the piece, more stays in the blade slot.
table gets none on it. Not that it would take much to add hives to the design before printing.


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## DBT85 (Yesterday at 21:23)

For anyone that might be interested, I have now changed over to running my Ender 3 Pro via a 2014 Raspberry Pi 2 (donated by a friend) and using Klipper so I can take advantage of input shaping (less ringing on the sides) and pressure advance (actual corners and not bulges). 

Strange that it took until 2023 for me to stop loading files onto an SD card for my printer!


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## sploo (Yesterday at 21:31)

DBT85 said:


> For anyone that might be interested, I have now changed over to running my Ender 3 Pro via a 2014 Raspberry Pi 2 (donated by a friend) and using Klipper so I can take advantage of input shaping (less ringing on the sides) and pressure advance (actual corners and not bulges).
> 
> Strange that it took until 2023 for me to stop loading files onto an SD card for my printer!


I'd be very interested to hear how well that works. It's been on my "todo" list for ages for my Ender 3 v2. I have a Pi3 connected to it already for OctoPrint, so I guess I have all the hardware I need ready.

The printer's running really well with the Jyer's version of Marlin, but I do wonder if Klipper would improve the speed without sacrificing the quality.


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