# Painting wooden toys



## JimiJimi

Hi all

Has anyone tried painting wooden toys? I am really struggling trying to get a solid opaque glossy finish! I have tried acrylics but it turns out really transparent - even after a few coats. I have tried Auro green gloss paint, but again it is transparent. How do I get the finish you see on wooden toys in the shops? It is getting very frustrating! The best I can get is using chalk paint then finishing with wax, but it is still not that hard glossy finish I am am hoping for. Help!

Jimi


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## wcndave

I used acrylic paints found in hobby/model stores and then a final coat of spray lacquer.


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## JimiJimi

Hi wcndave. Thanks for the reply. Do you prime the wood first? I have been using Colson Knotting Solution. Do your acrylic paints come out transparent? Maybe I am using the wrong sort of acrylic - what make are you using?

Jimi


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## wcndave

Mine are from a local Italian family hobby store, so not sure they're a big brand. I need two coats, and it's quite thick stuff, so not transparent.


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## technium

For my grand daughters box toy thingy I used Child Safe Rust-Oleum which is available in B&Q aswell as other stores. It was a nice glossy colour paint with the usual bright colours.

Heres a link although I got bigger tubs of it - http://www.diy.com/departments/rust-ole ... 135_BQ.prd It should have a little "Toy Safe" logo on it to indicate its ok for children.


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## JimiJimi

Thanks guys. Technium, I notice B&Q do tester pots of the Rustoleum so I'll give that a go.

Jimi


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## Aggrajag

I ordered a job lot of the rust-oleum painter's touch online last week for this exact reason. Hope it's good. It's not arrived yet.


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## technium

No problem, hope its what youre after, try a test pot first as the bigger pots are quite expensive for what they are. I only just had enough for what I needed otherwise I would of sent you abit to try.


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## dynax

i've used the rustoleum acrylics, good paint, i used mine in an airbrush and the finish is great, use 3-4 thin coats but leave a good day between coats and a gentle flatten down, i use scotch pads not as harsh as a paper abrasive,


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## Chippygeoff

I use acrylic paints from Hobbies, there are a few to choose from and I have found their own branded paints to be the best. There are a couple of secrets for getting the finish you desire and it is quite simple. Firstly I don't bother with a primer and secondly most of what I paint is birch faced ply. You need to end sanding anything with a very fine grit, maybe 320 or 400. The brush is very important, forget the kiddies type of brush. You need a brush ideally that is 50% man made bristle and 50% sable or other natural fibre. Apply one coat and leave it overnight or 24 hours. some grain may have lifted and if so very lightly sand smooth. The apply the second coat and you will find it is a very professional finish. You can then spray lacquer if you wish.


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## JimiJimi

Weirdly, it turns out that my problem was in painting it with knot sealant first. Counter-intuitively, the paint wouldn't stick to it and that was why it seemed so transparent. I have used the Auro gloss eco child safe paint that I originally bought and it has only taken 2 coats when putting it straight onto the bare wood.

Paint available here: http://www.auro.co.uk/


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## Jacob

I've painted designs, lettering etc. on wooden toys using indian inks and fine brushes - Chinese calligraphy brushes in some cases. Very dense colours with little or no bleeding - assuming fine finish sanding to start with.


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## Dominik Pierog

Polyurethane, two-component.
Varnish and hardener.


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