# Ice Bear 1000/6000 Grit Waterstone - Submerge in water?



## Dissolve (10 Jun 2011)

Hi,

I recently purchased a King/Ice Bear combination waterstone. I've read that anything courser than 6000grit should be kept submerged in water. I was wondering if I should submerge my 1000/6000grit combination waterstone for storage?

Or wether I should leave it to dry after use then just soak when needed?

Thanks


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## Racers (10 Jun 2011)

Hi,

Mine lives in water al the time seems to be fine, pit a drop of bleach to stop it going green. I use a squirt of bathroom cleaner with bleach its easer to do.

Pete


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## matthewwh (10 Jun 2011)

I tend to store mine dry and then give them a couple of minutes in a shallow tray of water before I start. Once the stone stops absorbing water it's ready.


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## Dissolve (11 Jun 2011)

I've just tried using my waterstone after flattening and at very first I am pretty unimpressed. 

I used float glass and wet anddry, checked they were both flat before use. I then flattened the back of a plane blade using the 1000 side, no problem. Moved over to the 6000 side to finish off flattening/polishing and it just made the back of the blade cloudy..?

Seeing as 10,000 seems to be thehoghest grade most people go up to, is 6000 meant to leave a blade cloudy or should it be sufficient to polish a blade toa shinier finish?

(of course, I'm not fussed about the colour of it if its sharp..)

The result was fair.. It shaved a few hairs off my arm after honing on both the 1,000 and 6,000 (flattening the back quickly after each to remove any burr) but I've produced much better results using a medium grit diamond stone and finishing on a very high grit ceramic..

Is what I've described fairly normal or am I doing something wrong?


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## matthewwh (11 Jun 2011)

Are you using a nagura on the 6000?


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## Dissolve (11 Jun 2011)

matthewwh":1p1vfgnh said:


> Are you using a nagura on the 6000?



I've tried it with and without. I bought the axminster £2.75 nagura along with float glass etc. Shouldn't think that would make much differnce though than an actual King/Ice Bear nagura?


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## Peter Sefton (12 Jun 2011)

My understanding is that the lower grit stones can be kept submerged all the time but the finer stones can go soft if left in water. The same is true of wet stone grinders, you may produce a soft spot which tends to make your wheel turn oval shaped.

Cheers Peter


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## matthewwh (12 Jun 2011)

Odd, you should get a mirror finish on a 6000, I've certainly always achieved that and have used quite a few 6000 king stones. Are you trying for a fully flat polished back or using the ruler trick? 1000 to 6000 is quite a jump without some degree of angular advantage.


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## Dissolve (14 Jun 2011)

matthewwh":3dymid9x said:


> Odd, you should get a mirror finish on a 6000, I've certainly always achieved that and have used quite a few 6000 king stones. Are you trying for a fully flat polished back or using the ruler trick? 1000 to 6000 is quite a jump without some degree of angular advantage.



Hi,

I've attempted it again after watching the David CHarlesworth DVD on Plane setup and sharpening and I really cannot get it mirror finish.

Im using a nagura stone on both the 1000 and 6000 grit, and I just cannot get it any better than cloudy.. Ive attempted the ruler trick but to no avail..

Can anyone suggest things I may be doing wrong? Is there a particular method to rubbing the back of the blade on a stone? 

Thanks guys


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## Peter Sefton (14 Jun 2011)

I tend to get a much better finish from scary sharpening


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## Dissolve (14 Jun 2011)

I'm more frustrated that other people can get a plade mirror finish with the equipment I have but I can't. I'm pretty sure I must be missing something.. Might be a stupid question but how long (ballpark figure) should it take to polish the back of a blade using the ruler trick? And at what point should I move from the 1000 to the 6000 grit?

If it takes 3 hours on a 6000 stone I'll spend 3 hours doing it.. Just not sure if it's the equipment,the technique or just me!

Cheers


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## Racers (15 Jun 2011)

Hi, dissolve 

Don't use your nagura stone on the 1000G side, you will be contaminating the 6000G side, possibly causing your problem.

Do the ruler trick and don't worry about getting a mirror finish on the back all you need is a small band near the edge, which is what you get with the ruler trick.


Pete


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## grahamg (29 Jul 2011)

Hi dissolve,

I just signed up because I think I've been having the same problem as you. I bought a King Ice Bear 1200/8000 stone last week and have been struggling to get anything sharp (axe, chisels, straight razor). Last night flattening the back of a chisel, I was going through grits of wet and dry sandpaper on glass. 60, 100, 150, 240 , 400, 600, 1200 on the sandpaper. I got a shiny surface where I could see a reflection and just visible scratches. Then tried the 1200 side of the stone. It went all hazy. I did further tests and came to the conclusion that the 1200 side of the stone was like the 400 git sandpaper on glass. And the 8000 side gave a scratch pattern the same as 1200 git sandpaper on glass.

This is my first water stone so I also might have the wrong technique but maybe there is a batch with the wrong grits labelled. I'm going to try another brand.

Regards,
Graham


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## Racers (29 Jul 2011)

Hi, Graham

You can't compaire the grades of waterstones and wet & dry directly, as you have found out a 1200 waterstone is about 400 wet and dry and 8000/1200.

You need to find a method of sharping that you like and stick to it, don't let other bend you from your chosen path (you know who you are :wink: )

Pete


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## bugbear (29 Jul 2011)

grahamg":24g8eumn said:


> I did further tests and came to the conclusion that the 1200 side of the stone was like the 400 git sandpaper on glass. And the 8000 side gave a scratch pattern the same as 1200 git sandpaper on glass.



This might save you some time:

http://sharpeningmadeeasy.com/grits.htm

Particle size isn't the only factor, but it's probably the most important factor.

BugBear


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## Paul Chapman (29 Jul 2011)

If you want super-sharp blades and a mirror finish, just use Solvol Autosol and some 3-in-1 on a block of wood







I picked up this tip from Garrett Hack (he uses diamond paste rather than Solvol Autosol but the results are the same). Here's a link showing how Garrett does it http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAn ... x?id=28819

Super-sharp blades and much cheaper and less messy than water stones  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## matthewwh (29 Jul 2011)

Graham / dissolve

Have you contacted the suppliers you bought them from yet? 

If it's a technique issue they may have come across it before and be able to suggest a remedy, or be happy to work towards finding one. If it's a quality issue they will be able to take it up with the manufacturer and you will be entitled to a replacement or refund.

I get a beautiful mirror finish on a 6000 grit stone and have had no problems reported with the 1200/8000's, although I will pull one out of the current stock and try it just to be on the safe side. If I'm able to replicate the problem I'll let you know.


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