# Router choices, opinions required for a new woodworker!



## Virana (11 Jul 2013)

Good morning all,

I am having a dilemma on which router I should purchase, this will be my first router and will spend 90% of it's time under a table, if not 100% with a second hand router for small jobs.

I have basically summed it up to 3 routers and would really like some opinions facts and thoughts on what you all think would be best for me.

The majority of the workload that I will be doing is small round over edges, thin 3mm grooves no more than 1/4" deep (Like you would see on the back of cheap kitchen units that have the mdf boards slotted into)

The biggest jobs the router will have to handle will be 3/4" deep holes that I will be sinking tealight sizes object into, I would expect to use something like an 6-8mm wide straight bit and take it easy with the depth and side to side movement so that the bit doesnt snap.

The 3 choices that I have been able to come up with are:
Bosch POF 1400 ACE http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-POF-1400-Watt-Router/dp/B001E4EJ6M
Makita RP0900X http://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-4-in...e=UTF8&qid=1373538631&sr=1-1&keywords=rp0900x
Triton JOF001 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Triton-JOF0...ie=UTF8&qid=1373538650&sr=1-1&keywords=jof001

I have a budget of around £150 for the router but obviously if I can buy something for £80 on Ebay then that saves a few pennies! I would like the router to be reliable but would expect to replace it within the year for a more powerful £300+ model when I feel an upgrade is required.

Thank you all.


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## paul saunders (11 Jul 2013)

If you can find a second hand Elu 177E for the sort of money you're looking to spend, then that's what I would recomend, pluss you won't have to upgrade ever (unless it dies)


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## RogerP (11 Jul 2013)

For a year or so I've had the slightly dearer Triton 1400W MOF001. Particularly good in a table as the long plunge depth lets the collet nut come far above the table for very easy one spanner cutter changing. The micro adjuster can be used through the table with the supplied handle. Soft start and collets available in all sizes.


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## Reggie (11 Jul 2013)

The triton and the makita are underpowered for a table router from what I've read, 900w and 1kw respectively, so really the bosch is the only one out of your 3 to look at, I *think* there might be an issue with the bosch where the micro-adjust doesn't lock when the plunge is locked.

Draper are doing a 1350w combo kit for around £140 if you shop around, it's got a plunge base and a fixed base which means you can use it motor only in a router lift if you want. comes with 1/4" or 1/2" collet and a bunch of accessories. My dad has one in his router table with a sidewinder router lift.

the Draper number is 45368 and it's a combo kit.


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## Tim_H (11 Jul 2013)

I have the Draper Expert, mounted under my router table on the fixed base and you can take the motor out and use it in a plunge base. I managed to get it on special offer from Yandles for £100 but I think £140 is about right now. I have found it really easy to use as it has a flip switch for on and off and you can adjust the height fairly easily reaching under the table. I think you can also use a hex key from above the table although I have not tried that yet. Power wise it has been fine and it does have the two collectors.

You can see it mounted in the plunge base here with the fixed base next to it.


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## giantbeat (11 Jul 2013)

i dont have the perticular model you mention but i can not reccoment Triton highly enough, they are amazing tools, i have a MOF001 which is a little over your budget...its my fave tool buy of all time... best router i own (i also have 2 far more expensive makita & festool models at work).


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## yetloh (11 Jul 2013)

I would second Paul's comments about size and quality and go for a good Elu 177 or the identical (except for colour and branding) Dewalt 625. You will never regret buying a quality big router with a half inch collet and, despite what you say about your usage, you will inevitably find yourself wanting to do things where you really need the extra power. In my experience, the mass of a big one will often prove to be an asset for work where instinctively you might reach for a small one. Also, don't waste your money on 1/4 inch shank cutters - the extra rigidty of 1/2" shanks will give a much smoother cut.

Jim


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## Reggie (11 Jul 2013)

I should correct myself and say that the draper comes with 1/4" and 1/2" collets not one or the other.


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## Virana (12 Jul 2013)

Thanks for the response all,

I have looked over all the comments and across the forums and see that 90% of people recommend getting the 1/2" shank from the get go, even if I won't make use of it currently, I'm sure something will come along in the future that requires the bigger size and more power.

I had a look over the Triton range on their website since alot of people swear by difference routers for reliability and power, the price difference between the JOF001 and TRA001 is only around £70 so I might just bite the bullet and go for the biggest one, if it lasts me years and provides all the power I will need then it seems like a sensible purchase.

Something else that is swaying me to Triton is the table they make which I can use the router lift handle on, also the compatibility between the 2 should mean I don't have to mess around drilling holes and making a mess of the whole thing.


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## RogerP (12 Jul 2013)

I think you'll be very happy with a Triton, I have been. I wish I'd bought their products from the beginning instead of wasting money on cheaper stuff.


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## Racers (12 Jul 2013)

Hi, 

I think the best second hand router is the Hitachi M12V there's a "new" (its the old model) on Ebay for £169 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HITACHI-M12VS ... 2a2ddb312f

Pete


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## Eric The Viking (13 Jul 2013)

Elu / Trend T10 T11 / DeWalt625 / CMT (all the same, pretty much). Makita are nice but pricey, as are Festool (VERY pricey!). I don't know the Hitachi, but they do have a good rep., and if Pete says it's good...

You want something versatile if it's your only one. The Draper has been well reviewed too and is cheaper than the others, but it hasn't been around all that long. The Tritons are an acquired taste - those who have them really like them. 

Don't, whatever you do get a cheap brand new from a DIY shed. It WILL disappoint you and put you off. Get a good one s/h or save up for a good one new. The ones mentioned above have stayed the same design for ddecades, because it works as an idea, AND all the fence bars are the same size, spacing and fit in the same way (handy for all sorts of reasons you'll discover later when you get creative).

I've seen a lot of interesting designs, but the Elu concept takes some beating for handheld, and is pretty good in a router table. The Tritons *might* be as good handheld, but if they're not, you're stuck with it. It's not so bad t'other way round.


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## mac1012 (13 Jul 2013)

ditto on the triton I had mine since Christmas I too have the mofoo1 which I found the cheapest price on amazon here
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002 ... B002QRUG04


I have found it really good , I did a lot of research and for price point and useful features it is spot on the comparable trend routers are way to expensive for me anyway the wind handel for table use is great as no need for a router lift 

I know you said it will be in the table most of the time but the hand held features are great the dust deflectors are usefull and actually work but the best feature is the wind down feature on the hand grip you turn this and the router bit lowers in a really controlled way far better than free plunge (which you can do if you want) for me doing repetitive cuts in recesses it is invaluable , once you tried it you will never want to use free plunge again , has good safety features too 

the only down side is you have to purchase a 1/2inch collet as it only comes with 1/4 inch they cost around 20 pounds but for me still a good package 

mark


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## Jacob (13 Jul 2013)

Erbauer are good, and cheap.
It's quite a good spec at the price but the fittings are perhaps a bit on the flimsy side if you were to drop it. Solution - don't drop it! And perhaps take of the fence etc when not in use.


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## mac1012 (13 Jul 2013)

Another thing if you going to have in the table all the time whatever you choose think hard about how you are going to raise and lower the cutter 

router lifts are expensive I guess if you buy a cheap router you can always scramble under the table every time you want to raise and lower it 

the triton for its price is only router that offers above table winding other makes I have seen well 1/2 inch ones are way more expensive


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## Reggie (13 Jul 2013)

There are plenty of plans for building your own cheap router lift and after market mods that you can do as well.


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## JJ1 (14 Jul 2013)

I bought the Triton TRA001 a couple of weeks ago and can highly recommend it.
If you haven't made the purchase yet, you might want to check out Toolstation for the Triton router. I paid £180 for mine, which was about £40 less than I was anticipating having to pay.
Their website listed the router as not available but a call to their sales department confirmed that they do in fact have limited stock available.


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## iNewbie (14 Jul 2013)

Virana":361t5tmq said:


> Something else that is swaying me to Triton is the table they make which I can use the router lift handle on, also the compatibility between the 2 should mean I don't have to mess around drilling holes and making a mess of the whole thing.



Check your PM's.


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## Virana (14 Jul 2013)

Is the router on Toolstation mentioned above the TRA001 model or MOF001 as it doest say?

Edit: It is also listed as 2000w whereas Tritons website advertises it at 2400w


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## adzeman (14 Jul 2013)

I have three routers
1. My trusty 1/4” Elu cost me £90.00 30 years ago.
2. A Bosch POF 1300 ACE cost me £10.00 two years ago at the Bentley Wood Fair from a second hand tool stand.
3. A Makita palm sander fixed to a home built router lift cost £90.00 from a discount tool store in Greenwich.
I dream of owning a ¼”-1/2” DeWalt costs about £300.00

The router I use the most at present is the Bosch POF 1300 ACE because,
1.	It is the easiest to change the bits only needs one spanner (so does the Makita)
2.	It starts slow building up to the desired speed (its variable)
3.	It has a light over the collet which comes on when it starts.
4.	It has the starter switch in the handle with a dead mans button which means both hands secure the machine when in use.
The Makita is in the router lift 
1.	Because it is easy to firmly secure to the lift.
2.	It dose not require a sole plate.
3.	Bits easily accessible when in the lift and requires only one spanner.
4.	Starter button not easy to access but stop and start with an external push stop button.

The Elu is a work horse but it does have a kick when it starts you have to prepare yourself, stand firm, hold the grips and flick the switch. The collet is not the one supplied when bought and required replacing after 10 years of use. Elu have stopped manufacture but they did supply me with a replacement of a different method of locking, much better but not as good as current makes and models and currently need this one replacing. This is an important factor if buying an Elu.

I am sure there are other machines out there that cover the above but the makes mentioned are reliable not that other makes are not but these are good points to look out for. Do I need a De Walt not really but I can dream. If I was fitting kitchens I would certainly need one. Raised panels? I do them on the bench saw.

Costs? Bentley is coming up soon and there is the Essex show soon. Some of the exhibiters have a postal service so you should obtain a bargain and they are P.A.T. tested.

At present I am building an arched gate and using the Elu with a home made jig. Have to cut a small depth at a time (goes without saying) but am having a problem with the bit becoming loose. I have to listen carefully to the sound as soon as the sound pitch changes I had to stop and re-tighten up. I cant get a sharp picture to post showing the marks on the bit due to over tightening, I have repaired the jig once due to it being damaged from jumping out of the jig on starting. Why use the Elu? It’s the only router I have with a bush collet for the jig.(I will be getting one for the Bosch)


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## JJ1 (15 Jul 2013)

Virana":393eh17j said:


> Is the router on Toolstation mentioned above the TRA001 model or MOF001 as it doest say?
> 
> Edit: It is also listed as 2000w whereas Tritons website advertises it at 2400w




The one I bought a couple of weeks ago is the TRA001. There's some confusion as to the exact wattage apparently, but whether it's listed as 2000w or 2400w, it is in fact exactly the same model I'm led to believe.
It's states 2400w on the outside of the box of the one I bought.

As far as I know, or so I was told, Toolstation are clearing their remaining stock of the Triton routers, which explains the decent price I guess.


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## DMF (15 Jul 2013)

Two models, the Triton MOF001 is 1400W i believe and the big boy at 2400W according to the label on mine.

Dean


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## iNewbie (15 Jul 2013)

There's a mention on the Triton site which states -in red- that the UK version is not 2400W, but 2000W 

Triton


/


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## Tim_H (15 Jul 2013)

I would avoid an Erbauer for a router table, I originally fitted one on my Dakota router table (special offer again from Rutlands). I had to take a handle off, cable tie the switch as it is a hold down rather than more helpful flip switch. The Erbauer is fine as a hand held router but I am much happier with the Draper under the table. 

However I would agree with the motto buy cheap buy twice, so if you can afford it buy the best you can afford.

I suspect I will live to regret all the cheap tools I have collected over the years, however as a very amateur DIYer I still can not justify spending loads of money on tools I only use occasionally.


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## JJ1 (15 Jul 2013)

> Something else that is swaying me to Triton is the table they make which I can use the router lift handle on, also the compatibility between the 2 should mean I don't have to mess around drilling holes and making a mess of the whole thing.



I wouldn't let that sway your decision in the slightest. It's only a single hole you need to drill. It couldn't be easier and the Triton router base has a reference mark (notch) on the base that lets you mark precisely where the hole needs to be.


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## DMF (16 Jul 2013)

iNewbie":u51x22ov said:


> There's a mention on the Triton site which states -in red- that the UK version is not 2400W, but 2000W



Well that's just mean, taken 400w away from us! Looks like there's 3 models now and with the new range a change of motor for that one? But why UK only?I'd be tempted to find an older model and buy the height winder separately, before i got mine i read loads of positive comments going back a fair while and i like the idea of tried and tested.


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## iNewbie (16 Jul 2013)

i've heard its because we have a stiff-upper-lip and don't need the extra 400watts. :mrgreen:


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## Eric The Viking (16 Jul 2013)

US WW forums indicate the Triton power 'discrepancy' is because of different testing methodologies required in the EU and the USA. They also point out that the later ("B"?) model has 1/2" and 1/4" collets as opposed to the "A" model with a reducer sleeve (bad news) and that, at least in the USA, the later one comes complete with the winding handle for the table. That last bit is emphasized by the UK site too (that their stock has the winding handle). 

I vaguely remember some people having trouble with the handle mech. that alters from plunge to table adjustment. I don't want to disparage Triton - I have no experience and no agenda either - but you might want to do a bit of Googling about reliability before committing. 

There's what seems to be a common problem with the T10/T11/DEWalt/CMT ones in that the pulse-counter magnet slips off the shaft when left upside-down for long periods. It happened to mine, and to several other people on the forum, but the fix is simple - Loctite! 

Nothing's perfect, I fear, and I also remember Steve Maskery commenting unfavourably about the concentricity of some 'industrial' models - the spindle should be dead centre to the baseplate. If it isn't, it limits how you can use it freehand, as the cut (when running it along a straightedge) won't be straight if you twist it. To an extent you can work around the problem with auxiliary bases and guide bushes, but you really shouldn't have to.

In that context, it's worth saying that the Trend T11 (and probably the others) came with a chunky 1/2" shank T-profile centring/setup pin. The fat part fits the inside of a standard 30mm bush snugly, but you could also use it to measure any lack of concentricity with a view to 'adjustment' if you wanted to (with a file on the perimeter of the baseplate). 

I'd also mention that, whilst you can theoretically swap just the 1/2" and 1/4" collets over with the Elu/Trend/DW design, it's _much_ easier to buy a second collet nut and keep the collet fitted to the nut (swap both over together).

I suspect you've made a choice already, but the above might still be helpful.

E.


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## DMF (16 Jul 2013)

iNewbie":3jrjes66 said:


> i've heard its because we have a stiff-upper-lip and don't need the extra 400watts. :mrgreen:



Ha! Still, makes we want to find out why for some reason, have our old motors be declared good for american safety standards but not ours, from other examples this may not be a good thing! Some googling later me thinks.

Eric, is it just the dust thing mainly on the power switch? Sounds like the new one may be able to be retrofitted? I just got mine second hand, table base, CS and table, router and table plus dust thing and a whole load of other stuff like bevel cutting guide for not a lot, its all as new apart from the saw table top so won't be too upset if it's worth spending a few quid.

Dean. (ps sorry OP if i'm now guilty of thread highjacking!)


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## Virana (17 Jul 2013)

No worries, I'm keeping up to date with this topic. I haven't actually purchased the router yet but came across a steal on Ebay which was for the Triton router table top, the workstand that it sits into and an Elu MOF96 router which I got for £130 so pleased with that.

I was tempted to sell the Elu router and stick a new Triton in there.


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## yetloh (18 Jul 2013)

I think that's a good plan. While the Elu is a good router (I have one myself) it is relatively low powered and has only a 1/4" collet.

Jim


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