# Post a photo of the last thing you made



## DTR

This is a bit of an experiment. Most forums I've been on have had a "Post pics of [something topical]" thread, but not this one. There's probably a good reason for that, but I'm going to stick my neck out anyway. 

The idea is, quite simply, to post a photo of the last thing you made. It can be something quite insignificant, a component of something bigger, or a completed project. It can be something that's not thread-worthy on its own, or it can be something that already has a 9 page WIP thread in the Projects section, it really doesn't matter! It's just a bit of fun, but hopefully it will generate some discussion too. 

So here's my offering to get the ball rolling. I could have posted a photo of a mug of tea, but that's hardly relevant. This is a replacement guide knob for SWMBO's Burgess bandsaw. Formally it was in the care of her Dad, who isn't the most mechanically minded, hence why it needed a bit of a spruce up before going back into service!


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## Woodmonkey

Carbide tipped turning tool, inspired by recent threads on here. Maybe got a bit carried away with the length...


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## Doris

The last thing I carved for my cousins wedding present.


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## Workshop Bob

Not as impressive as most of the work on here but heres my tv bench


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## wallace

I made this wardrobe for my mrs to house her ever increasing bag collection. I learnt a lot making this and got a load of browny points.


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## siggy_7

Spent the last couple of weekends putting this patio table together to keep SWMBO happy. Hopefully that gives me some breathing space to get on with what I want to!


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## Lons

Made this set yesterday


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## ColeyS1

My obsession with quirky lights continue :lol: 




Researched by watching miley cyrus wrecking ball video.


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## richarnold

The last thing I made on my own was a Computer desk in air dried olive ash from MAC timbers with bog oak handles and cock beading. It was a great piece to make, but I probably got the price completely wrong and hardly made minimum wage doing it. I don't really care though as you don't get commissions like this every day


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## Berncarpenter

I wish you could have asked for this on a more exiting day but here we go. Made another leather strop this afternoon its a light weight one for my tool box drawer. 18mm birch ply with some of the leather Steve Maskery gave me glued on with pva. The last one i made with a granite base is great for the workshop but it is too long for the box and its heavy to cart around . Just getting some of my tools tools sorted for the Schwarz atc class on the 21st.











Cheers Bern


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## DonJohnson

Wow! a chance to show my latest wonderful creation again ! 
(see also post891069.html#p891069 )


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## Tim_H

Bandsaw box for my youngest daughter. 




I am still making my workbench!


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## Doug B

This fuse box cupboard.


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## Racers

richarnold":3g1ei3b0 said:


> The last thing I made on my own was a Computer desk in air dried olive ash from MAC timbers with bog oak handles and cock beading. It was a great piece to make, but I probably got the price completely wrong and hardly made minimum wage doing it. I don't really care though as you don't get commissions like this every day




Fabulous work Rich, love the olive ash.

Pete


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## Random Orbital Bob

Some really nice work there...in all the threads. Well done folks.


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## Bradshaw Joinery

A box to sit in the apex of an orangery, to hold up a clock tower above, mechanism to be an old style cast clock frame... Very interesting job! 
The timber frame spans between the steel purlins and everything else sits off that.

Now having doubts about the size of the clock tower after seeing the base!


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## morfa

The last thing I actually made and finished which was proper woodworking was a potting table for the missus. I have a half finished kitchen, but I don't think that really counts.


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## monkeybiter

Apart from my recent toe-dipping into the daunting world of carving the last thing I'll admit to is a stand for my son's new 42" TV for his new house. We both agreed that commercial versions are silly money:-


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## Chrispy

I've just made a batch of pediments for dressing up some doorways and openings next week I'll make some more!
The long one is 3.4m over all.


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## nathandavies

An almost completed Credenza for a shop in Londinium






Nathan


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## nev

OK I didnt quite make it, but I did cut a few bits of wood and stuck a few domino(e)s and a few screws in


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## RogerP

Lots of small stuff. This is the last ... for the moment


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## Chrispy

Well OK iI'll be tthe first, its not wooden but I did grow harvest and string them tonight, the string bit that is.


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## JonnyD

Some blue cupboards nearly finished






Cheers

Jon


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## WoodMangler

Shelves and spice racks for the kitchen. The wall behind them is cob, to which nothing stays attached, hence the legs at the near end for support. The lowest shelf is wider with two slatted inserts, for cooling bread and cakes where the dog can't reach them.


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## Fatboy

I needed a new drawer cabinet in the garage but decided to see how cheap I could make one from a spare kitchen cabinet, offcuts of veneer mdf and odds and ends of oak hanging around. Had to buy 6 handles and not quite enough ply to finish the two bottom drawers so it won't get finished until next week


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## Fatboy

Here you go Chrispy, this is what they'd look like grown from wood :lol:


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## Doris

Tim_H":tqac3xlf said:


> Bandsaw box for my youngest daughter.
> 
> I am still making my workbench!



What size bandsaw blade did you have one your bandsaw to cut out that box?


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## Hardwood66

My last side table, sort of an Art Deco feel in walnut and rippled sycamore



what do you think? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RogerM

Nice. Lovely use of contrasting woods.


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## Tim_H

Doris, 

In answer to your question about my heart shaped bandsaw box, I used my Burgess bandsaw to cut out the exterior and my scroll saw for the middle. I think it was a half inch blade, I should have used the smaller more flexible quarter inch, but I was lazy and did not change it. I think I would have been able to get a better curve if I had.

Keeping to the intent of this thread the last thing I made, which is finished! was this scroll saw unicorn jigsaw in oak, which has been posted in a scroll sawing thread, also for my daughter.


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## RogerM

Our kitchen! The octagonal table is just a temporary "jobbie" cobbled together from bits of old worktop and some scrap MFC and 4 x 2. A final version with a wrap around corner settee will be next winters project. Also need to make some spice drawers for the top of the dresser unit.

In the meantime there is a garden to relandscape.


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## Noggsy

There is some stunning work posted here!

This is the latest thing I made - it's a way for my daughter to safely pull herself up and was inspired by her pulling a table over on top of her;


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## Walney Col

A tiny belt, dome, and disc sander for intarsia pieces. It's powered by a 60W motor from a floor-standing fan and works surprisingly well.


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## Racers

Spoon!



Spoon! by maddpete, on Flickr

Cherry, axe, knife, crook knife, and wax.

10/10 if you get the joke, think cartoon.

Pete


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## undergroundhunter

Made this for the wife yesterday. My first real dovetails. 





















Matt


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## Racers

Good fitting dovetails, better than my first attempt.

Pete


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## Phill joiner

Just fitted this. Bit OTT but the client loved it.


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## morfa

Phill joiner":1a703g8o said:


> Just fitted this. Bit OTT but the client loved it.



I love all that sort of ornate stuff as well. Looks good.


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## Grazor

A stand for my tablet. Very small scale but a fun couple of hours


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## GLFaria

Not that glamorous, but it was the last made, and it does its job (very important remark - please let no one start another sharpening thread on this; if anyone does, it's nor my fault :wink: )
My latest scary sharp set, made from scraps of wood and a float glass plate 600x230x10mm. This set has the advantage over previous ones I had made in that it allows me to use either full sheets (280x230) for general polishing or 1/8 sizes (110x70) for honing. It also allows me to use spring clips for holding the polishing paper. The honing "guides" are based on the ones by Brent Beach, Derek Cohen ("10 cent sharpening system"...) et al.


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## monkeybiter

Love this thread for the fact that it covers the full spectrum of work, from the fancy to the mundane. As someone on the lower reaches of the learning curve I find it very encouraging and motivating.


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## HandyAndy

Not quite in the same league as the work you guys have done  - but I fixed a door frame...  

Andy


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## Baldhead

RogerP":3ff9n9s9 said:


> Lots of small stuff. This is the last ... for the moment


Roger I like that

Baldhead


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## Baldhead

I finished this a couple of weeks ago, I made it for my 8 year old granddaughter, I thought it would help her with her maths, it's a Shut The Box game, it's a Steve Ramsey design, I did however adjust the sizes to fit the timber I had, made of Mahogany, Maple and 3 ply.

Steve's board has 9 pegs but I made this with twelve pegs as it's played with two dice.

Baldhead

Edit. It's difficult to see on the photo but the pegs are numbered 1 to 12


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## monkeybiter

Made this today as a gift for SWMBO's friend who likes this sort of thing.


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## davin

Chrispy":c9pvevjo said:


> I've just made a batch of pediments for dressing up some doorways and openings next week I'll make some more!
> The long one is 3.4m over all.



Would love to know how to make the curved cornice, have made simpler version for armoires, but the one in your photo would be perfect - scary spindle jigs ?


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## markturner

Here is a box I made to carry the ashes of our lovely stafford puppy Winnie, who passed on several years ago and has been residing in a pretty crappy box the Pet cemetary people supplied. 

It's dovetailed Rosewood, with a quilted maple lid and a leather base










I was on a box making roll, so also made one for Nancy, who we lost at Christmas last year. This time it's made of beanwood, mitred and again with the quilted maple lid.


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## KevM

Some nice work there Mark, it's especially rewarding to make something for those you love, it doesn't ease the loss but it honours their part in your life.


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## nev

A bunch of sierras made this weekend. First pens I've made in a long while. 
Yew, walnut, laburnum,yew and a pink acrylic that was a bit iffy and going to be binned but the mrs nicked it.


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## Vic Perrin

A Couple of Timberbits Bolt Action Pens in Olive Wood

Vic


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## cusimar9

Last thing I made was this TV table, but soon to be superseded by the next project which is in the last couple of weeks...


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## monkeybiter

I really like that.


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## Noel

A bed:






Good thread Dave, stuck some glue on it.............


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## Doug B

A few of the last things I turned


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## nev

great pingwins


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## monkeybiter

A friend at work has just had a lot of oak in his house; bedroom furniture, bannisters, fireplace etc. He had a small newel post offcut and asked me to turn him something - anything. Best I could come up with was this acorn. I'd have had more scope if the 4*4 wasn't two 2*4s glued together. Just finished tonight.


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## whiskywill

Just strung this up to try it out before applying the finish and it works, with great sustain.  Purpleheart back and sides, Spruce top, Bubinga neck, Rosewood headplate, fretboard and bridge.


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## ColeyS1

Not strictly woodworking but I did have fun getting all the parts to fit. I used a push to connect switch so when the oil caps tightened it pushes on the switch. My first sandblasting 'finished' project so its quite special to me


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## Phil Pascoe

I don't photograph my mistakes.


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## DTR

Noel":1xf25g1l said:


> Good thread Dave, stuck some glue on it.............



Thank you 

I'm really chuffed with how popular this thread has become. The quality and the variety of the projects posted up really is an inspiration. Thanks everyone


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## Bluekingfisher

Recent tool cab build to house the hand tools. Constructed BB ply with recycled scraps of sapele from work desks. Through dovetails joinery.

















making all the tool holders was more time consuming than the cab itself.

David


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## Setch

Great thread, and a stunning tool cabinet, David.


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## Bluekingfisher

Thanks Setch, much appreciated.

David


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## Owl

Now that's what I call a cabinet .... well done Setch =D>


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## Woodmonkey

Wow that is some tool cab, nice work


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## nathandavies

Very nice tool cabinet. I would like to make one like that myself, but fear that having finished it i'd find one more tool, that I couldn't do without.


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## Racers

Nice cabinet and nice tools.

Pete


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## Racers

Played with a compass and some gouges.





Pete


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## PAUL_TDI

I made my first ever (practice) mortice and tenon joint....


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## Setch

This is my last project. It may look like a window seat but it's really an undercover shed. 





I recently erected a log cabin workshop in my garden, removing a little 6×4 shed in the process. The contents were not really welcome in my workshop, so they have been knocking around the conservatory getting in the way. Now they are tucked out of sight but still easy accessible when needed. 





The T&G was recycled from my very dated kitchen. I liked the idea of recycling,but it was a massive PITA. Most of it was glued together by varnish, so I ended up having to machine grooves onto several lengths, and glue in replacement tongues.


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## Benchwayze

And now to the barrel-bottom... 

Board and easel. Made on the fly, and at short notice. (No plans whatsoever)

My grand-daughter is 2 years old on Tuesday next. 
No dimensions. I just measured Miss Trouble's height at the door-frame.


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## Baldhead

Benchwayze":vuhzei1g said:


> And now to the barrel-bottom...
> 
> Board and easel. Made on the fly, and at short notice. (No plans whatsoever)
> 
> My grand-daughter is 2 years old on Tuesday next.
> No dimensions. I just measured Miss Trouble's height at the door-frame.


I'm sure *Miss Trouble* will get hours of pleasure chalking on it =D> 

Baldhead


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## Benchwayze

Thank you BH. 

No. One Son is in full hope it might discourage her from chalking on the wallpaper! 
Thanks again. 

J (hammer)


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## DTR

Fresh from the lathe, a slightly over-engineered aluminium bracket for the headlight on SWMBO's bicycle


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## Doris




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## cgarry

Possibly not quite up to the standard of others on the forum, but I am just beginning at this woodworking game!


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## whiskywill

cgarry":3i3n1a88 said:


> View attachment 20140723
> 
> 
> Possibly not quite up to the standard of others on the forum, but I am just beginning at this woodworking game!



Did you buy a plan for that or design it yourself? :wink:


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## cgarry

whiskywill":34vxd04t said:


> Did you buy a plan for that or design it yourself? :wink:



Amazingly that is all my own design. A design that was so good I was able to make 2 of them from the same short piece of 2x4.


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## RogiBear

I'm not particularly active on here, but I do like to have a good look around from time to time. I thought I'd share this with you all as it's not the typical project on here. 
I am a amateur cuemaker and this is my latest. I use hand tools and jigs for the most part, apart from a bandsaw for cutting the splices and then sander, and a drill for the joint and badge. So Pretty much all done by hand. Shaft is ash and the butt gabon ebony with front splice of amboyna burl. Oil finish all over.
Cheers Adam


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## ColeyS1

Goddaughters obsessed with princess's so thought I'd make her an extra window for her room. Picture was bought from ebay and frame made to fit. Fingers crossed she'll like it....


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## woodfarmer

A gateway to keep the geese penned in. the gate and its fittings also. Ignore the binder twine, it was there to help me fit the home made hinges, stainless steel pintles running in zinc coated holes.


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## DTR

Some brass bushes for SWMBO's globe






(I still do woodwork, honest!)


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## ColeyS1

Thought of this when maccy d's were giving away mario figures with kids meals. By the time I was ready to get mario the promotion had ended :lol:




Majority done on the spindle but could easily be done with the router


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## Roughcut

Finished making a workshop air cleaner for in the garage yesterday.


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## nathandavies

ColeyS1":3jez3v5q said:


> Thought of this when maccy d's were giving away mario figures with kids meals. By the time I was ready to get mario the promotion had ended :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Majority done on the spindle but could easily be done with the router




Love this


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## cusimar9

Well this little beauty finally went up yesterday! Just the roof to add now...


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## Ghengis

Had a lathe a full 10 days now..


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## ugfu

Coffee mugs and kitchen towel holder for my parents.
My first ever project and last thing I build.


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## Easy

I made these recently. all reclaimed/recycled wood apart from the tabletop.

Cheers!


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## owenmcc

Great work, great thread!


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## gregmcateer

Ghengis":1triehkr said:


> Had a lathe a full 10 days now..



10 DAYS!! Hell's Bells, you're pretty damn good after 10 days, fellah - Keep posting up the inspiring work


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## Benchwayze

cgarry":ne9z1jr1 said:


> whiskywill":ne9z1jr1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you buy a plan for that or design it yourself? :wink:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazingly that is all my own design. A design that was so good I was able to make 2 of them from the same short piece of 2x4.
Click to expand...

 =D>


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## devonwoody

Only just found this post, but have not been back in my workshop for around 6 weeks but yesterday a neighbour asked me if I would work on his replacement front door (second hand heavy wooden) I feel quite honoured considering I am 77 and he is around 45. 
It is a very nice quality door he has got his hands on.


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## Benchwayze

Almost finished a side-gate for my house Woody. It's going to look a bit 'doorish', so I will do my best to upload a pic when it's done.


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## devonwoody

After finding this thread this morning and seeing all those superb projects posted I went into my workshop the first time for weeks, the wife wants some picture frames so I knocked up this one. The timber came out of the
freebie bin at our local B&Q, it was two small pieces of 3x2 and I got the four sides out just. Approx sixe 500mm x 400mm x 18mm thick.

Made me think, how to do a picture frame but I found a new way (for me) I used the inca mitre gauge and cut two pieces at a time, normally only cut one.

It worked.


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## hanser

DevonW

Good to see you back in the'shop =D>


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## monkeybiter

+1


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## devonwoody

Its amazing how exhausted I feel after those 3 hours .

Its the brain thinking that's tires you out when you get older as well as physical efforts. 

thanks for your comments above.


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## Benchwayze

I know the feeling Woody. When you're all primed to carry on working, and suddenly you think ''I ought to do this tomorrow when I'm fresh!'


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## Dangermouse.

Due to work commitments being mad, not done anything since my workbench. This photo was taken before it was fully finished.


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## Melinda_dd

Finished and delivered this yesterday. 
Oak veneer


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## JonnyD

A large cupboard in straight grained European oak with white painted mdf handle details






Cheers

Jon


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## DuncanDesigns

Built this in a hurry for the wife to house her ever growing mass of hair/ make up/ war paint supplies. When it was built though I quite liked it and decided to keep it for myself and use it as a small computer table! She has ordered another similar - but twice the size. A few pics below also show the process of assembly. It was cut from a single sheet of 8 x 4 birch ply and stained in natural varnish.
























































Thanks for looking!


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## Phil Pascoe

Neat! I hope you didn't pay for birch ply, though.


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## DuncanDesigns

phil.p":2n0au6qr said:


> Neat! I hope you didn't pay for birch ply, though.



£55 for 8 x 4 sheet. I wasn't impressed with the quality but didn't question it as it was a quick build. 

Was I ripped off!?


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## Phil Pascoe

It's not birch, it's WBP. £55 is expensive enough for WBP. Birch may have been more - it's a long time since I bought birch.
WBP is water/weather and boil proof.


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## Mikeee

This is what I made on the weekend - still starting out with woodworking so I am still a little slow and making mistakes. 

The paint job leaves a lot to be desired but the missus is pleased with it.


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## monkeybiter

That's lovely, nice cottagey feel to it. You could sell them if the price was high enough.


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## StevieB

Have been very busy putting sorting out a new kitchen - not really woodwork as it came from Wickes flat packed, but I did make the shelf above the cooker! I also uncovered the back door that was hidden, stripped it down, replaced the top two panels for glass units and refurbished the lock - it is a non standard size door so this was far easier that trying to source a replacement. This is actually the end of a very long process of turning 3 rooms into 1, removing walls, putting in steels etc. Just a few snagging jobs to go (paint that copper pipe, install the radiator, fit under cabinet lights etc...) but SWMBO decided to move back in before I had entirely finished :lol: 





















Steve


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## devonwoody

Nice looking kitchen, it must seem like an open plan restaurant if you have used up three rooms to create.

=D> =D> =D>


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## StevieB

Yes, it is larger than we originally intended. You can see the position of the 2 steels forming a 'T' in the last photo. there were two small kitchen rooms (kitchen and utility) and a downstairs toilet and washing machine area - we were originally going to just convert the two rooms and leave the toilet, but once the walls were out it made sense to take out the toilet also and leave it all open plan! Probably got some WIP shots somewhere if there is any interest in a thread, but it not really woodworking so I didn't post them before.


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## cgarry

Finally I felt up to tacking a project a bit more complicated that a door wedge! A simple project that I had fun making and am pleased with the result.


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## ColeyS1

Now that looks smart ! What timber is it ?


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## cgarry

ColeyS1":197sa5lg said:


> Now that looks smart ! What timber is it ?



Thanks! I believe the handle is oak but I have no real idea what type of timber the head is made from. Whatever it is, I picked up a few offcuts of it from the hardwood area of Cambridge Wood Works because the strong grain looked quite striking.


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## Benchwayze

Garry,

You made the head in three parts? 
Makes sense, and saves fiddling around with a through mortice. :lol: 

Nice neat job, and it reminds me, my oldie is looking a bit tired. 

Regards
John


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## cgarry

John,

Yes, the head was made in 3 parts which means the through mortice is extremely simple to get right. I can't take credit for the idea though, I mostly followed the build here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcaV5jWpR1k

Cheers,
Chris


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## DTR

cgarry":3hda13b3 said:


> I can't take credit for the idea though, I mostly followed the build here:



There aren't many new ideas in woodworking so it's nothing to be ashamed of. That's a fine mallet you've made


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## Benchwayze

Thanks Garry... 

I have unearthed a nice piece of 4 x 4 maple from my 'round-tuit' pile. It should be a nice mallet! 
But first things first, as I have a job on the anvil at the moment. 

Cheers
John


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## cgarry

Benchwayze":1iorngqm said:


> Thanks Garry...
> 
> I have unearthed a nice piece of 4 x 4 maple from my 'round-tuit' pile. It should be a nice mallet!
> But first things first, as I have a job on the anvil at the moment.
> 
> Cheers
> John



I look forward to seeing your version of the mallet!

Cheers,
Chris


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## Zeddedhed

Last sensible thing I made was this - timber surround for the appallingly fitted uPvc evil things on my own house.

Before:







After:






The surround is made from Douglas Fir, (eventually) painted with Sikkens Rubol Plus Satura

Construction is simply Dominos and Glue.

That's about as good as it gets from me at the moment!!


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## devonwoody

Yeah that looks good, but not so good if it was three floors up and needs repainting in the future.


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## monkeybiter

It would make that hose pipe difficult to reach as well!


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## Zeddedhed

devonwoody":2m9yi1nc said:


> Yeah that looks good, but not so good if it was three floors up and needs repainting in the future.



Ha ha!
Fortunately the first floor windows are ones I installed and don't need any further work. It's just the ground floor ones that are in this state.
The really embarrassing thing is that I built the extension myself and left the installation of the windows to a 'helper' whilst on holiday for a week.
I came back to find the mess you can see here. I could have fixed the problem there and then had I taken a step back, slowed down and thought it through.
The brick cladding (brick slips) was not installed at that point and I just thought "I'll fix that later' and steamed on with the rest of the build, including plastering inside.
What I should have done is move the windows further out.
Now six years after moving back in the missus has put her foot down and told me that i can't build/make anything else until I've sorted the problem.
She's probably right - how we've never had water penetration through the window reveals is beyond me. I guess Tyvek house wrap really does work and the extra effort of correctly lapping it around corners etc has paid off.

As for the hose pipe Monkey, that's her domain, not mine. Never use the thing unless it's for giving the kids a dousing when a game of footie turns into WW III.


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## mark w

Pair of table leg frames with various wood laminations, made for Alardus Van Den Bosch (http://www.alardus.co.uk). He mounts his intarsia table tops to the frames.
They should be on display at this years Celebration Of Design & Craftsmanship at Cheltenham.


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## hammer n nails

Made today.


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## houtslager

Gradually recovering from my broken shoulders, and getting back on the tools finally, 
made a few of these for sale, people like them but as usual the price puts them off, Bleeding hell they take 4 hours to make by hand and spray the required colour, but I ain't selling them for less then my hourly rate.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3KF6YjpN0PI

Fun to make, but too much time in making the angled through joint, got to devise a quicker method to bring the price down.


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## UrbanSpaceman

Here's my last effort. I cut up a crappy Argos bookcase for the top, and the bottom half is all 3x1 pine and the worst quality 12mm ply I've ever seen!

Long haired commander-in-chief was happy though


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## Saint Simon

Made this sort of Shaker clock for my son's wedding. The beautiful brown oak came from MAC timbers and the movement from Cousins. The hardest part was the dial; printed on card, glued to ply, coated with epoxy finish and drilled. Took four goes.





Great fun.
Simon


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## devonwoody

UrbanSpaceman":2jp0wfvz said:


> Here's my last effort. I cut up a crappy Argos bookcase for the top, and the bottom half is all 3x1 pine and the worst quality 12mm ply I've ever seen!
> 
> Long haired commander-in-chief was happy though



good conversion, =D>


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## UrbanSpaceman

devonwoody":2tt1owmv said:


> UrbanSpaceman":2tt1owmv said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my last effort. I cut up a crappy Argos bookcase for the top, and the bottom half is all 3x1 pine and the worst quality 12mm ply I've ever seen!
> 
> Long haired commander-in-chief was happy though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good conversion, =D>
Click to expand...


Thanks, it's certainly better than the traveller bookcase it once was. 

Speaking of which, I put this in the space freed up when I removed the bookcase. I estimate it has 250% the capacity of the old one.


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## david123

Zero clearance insert for my TS200 today, just need to cut out the slot. Not the best picture on the world, but hey ho.


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## marcros

Dave, do you know how to cut the slot, using the fence to hold the insert in place and raising the blade?

If so, sorry- grandma suck eggs etc. 
if not, well, that is how you do it.


----------



## david123

Hi Marceos
Yup, I have made them before, but thanks for sharing.. 
Have a good weekend


----------



## nev

Todays output from the shed. 
Bowl. unknown exotic wood (smelt medicinal :shock: ) finished 240 to 600 and EEE ultrashine.


----------



## david123

I like that, nice


----------



## gasman

2 identical sycamore glass cabinets for displaying glasses etc
They are big - 1000 x 1600 x 450mm.
They took me 180 hours in total - with lots of stringing inlay in the top and base and the 4 shelves. I do love ripple sycamore!




The mark you can see in the middle at the top is the thing I put on all my work - a square with a circle above it - usually it is very discreet but the client wanted it very obvious. One cabinet it is in purple heart the other one in pink ivory
Cheers Mark


----------



## devonwoody

Very nice and superb workmanship, your client should be happy.

(hammer)


----------



## Richiet

I've studied each page of this thread and come to this conclusion............................I ain't posting pictures of my rubbish on here.  

Some really inspirational pieces.


----------



## monkeybiter

Richiet":2d58wsgy said:


> I've studied each page of this thread and come to this conclusion............................I ain't posting pictures of my rubbish on here.
> 
> Some really inspirational pieces.



This thread needs pictures of everyday run of the mill stuff that gets knocked out just as much [if not more than] as the high quality output of some of the members, to encourage and include the rest of us that just enjoy the making rather than excel at it. I know I appreciate the opportunity to post a picccy of something I've made that wouldn't justify a thread of it's own. The postings are frequent enough that your embarrassment won't last long, and you would have helped to keep this as a window into the ordinary, allowing others [like me] to just show some of the normal day-to-day output.


----------



## Melinda_dd

monkeybiter":29xy7oju said:


> Richiet":29xy7oju said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've studied each page of this thread and come to this conclusion............................I ain't posting pictures of my rubbish on here.
> 
> Some really inspirational pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thread needs pictures of everyday run of the mill stuff that gets knocked out just as much [if not more than] as the high quality output of some of the members, to encourage and include the rest of us that just enjoy the making rather than excel at it. I know I appreciate the opportunity to post a picccy of something I've made that wouldn't justify a thread of it's own. The postings are frequent enough that your embarrassment won't last long, and you would have helped to keep this as a window into the ordinary, allowing others [like me] to just show some of the normal day-to-day output.
Click to expand...


I completely agree.... don't be shy... everyone enjoys pictures. .. and there's always beauty in someone's eyes... everyone's tastes are different! ... come on... it's good to share!


----------



## Zeddedhed

Richiet":1d3s5wgq said:


> I've studied each page of this thread and come to this conclusion............................I ain't posting pictures of my rubbish on here.
> 
> Some really inspirational pieces.



I specifically posted pictures of my extremely dull and not very good window frames to encourage others.
Looks like I should've posted some of my internationally acclaimed award winning Gold Medal work instead..............if I had some.

Don't be shy - we've had a bunch of onions, a door frame repair and a door wedge - not exactly intimidating stuff (although the door wedge exuded class!)
Paul TDI also showed off his first practice mortice and tenon that looked like he'd done it with his teeth - still better than most of mine are now!! He must have better teeth than me   
Every single one of us cut our first joint at some early part of our woodworking career and almost certainly 99.9% of them were shocking. But we practice and persevere and they get steadily less shocking.

I'm dreading showing the coming together of my workbench but I know that I'll get some good advice and encouragement.

So go for it. If nothing else it encourages you to keep at it and get better.


----------



## Giff

Nice thread to start the…er….. thread


----------



## Benchwayze

I see it this way. 

If we post all kinds of work from the mundane through sublime and onto the 'esoteric', then we'll all benefit, from getting ideas, seeing how someone else has tackled similar jobs, and even what not to do. 

I think this thread is one of the best. (Right up there with sharpening .............................................. er, saws!) :mrgreen: 

So even if it's only a teapot stand, please post it.  

John


----------



## DTR

monkeybiter":3onixj7e said:


> Richiet":3onixj7e said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've studied each page of this thread and come to this conclusion............................I ain't posting pictures of my rubbish on here.
> 
> Some really inspirational pieces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thread needs pictures of everyday run of the mill stuff that gets knocked out just as much [if not more than] as the high quality output of some of the members, to encourage and include the rest of us that just enjoy the making rather than excel at it. I know I appreciate the opportunity to post a picccy of something I've made that wouldn't justify a thread of it's own. The postings are frequent enough that your embarrassment won't last long, and you would have helped to keep this as a window into the ordinary, allowing others [like me] to just show some of the normal day-to-day output.
Click to expand...


Absolutely!

Here's a shelf. Go me.


----------



## monkeybiter

I reckon with a thicker board you could probably put a second book on that shelf, or at least a thick pamphlet. Interesting support method.


----------



## Grazor

Two more from me.

First a bit of extra storage for the man-cave and second, a 1hour sword for SWMBO's nephew.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

monkeybiter":2z6jb004 said:


> I reckon with a thicker board you could probably put a second book on that shelf, or at least a thick pamphlet. Interesting support method.



There are posts dealing with that method of adjustable shelving if you search for them.


----------



## paul saunders

Not a tea pot stand, but it is a coaster,


----------



## HandyAndy

Grazor":i7rcyytm said:


> Two more from me.
> First a bit of extra storage for the man-cave and second, a 1hour sword for SWMBO's nephew.



Ha! I just did the sword thing the other day - the boy wanted to build something in the workshop. I managed to talk him out of an actual working jet aircraft. We settled on swords for him and his little sister. Anything to get him off Minecraft for a bit! ...and I can confirm that carving a 'C' in softwood with nothing more than a blunt bevel edge chisel is harder than it looks!


----------



## John Brown

Here's a rough-and-ready pizza peel I knocked up out of a few pieces of 12 x 70 mm timber.
Jointed on the table saw, I'm surprised it hasn't fallen apart yet.
My photography is nearly as bad as my woodwork!


----------



## DTR

monkeybiter":3unpoh7l said:


> I reckon with a thicker board you could probably put a second book on that shelf, or at least a thick pamphlet. Interesting support method.



Fortunately I only own one book anyway. I got the support method from a furniture making book written in the late forties, but I expect the idea is a lot older than that. There's an American firm now that's making these strips to order, and are actually in the process of patenting the idea. How you can patent an strip of wood with some notches in it that woodworkers have been using for years is beyond me....


----------



## Giff

We have a very old French Armoire and it has notches like that for the shelves..…probably built before America was invented !


----------



## marcros

Excuse the rubbish in the background. This is a few hours work this afternoon. 

Timber was bought in planed from British hardwoods for much the same as it would have cost me to do, when you factor in wastage and time.


----------



## John Brown

I know everything is upside down in Australia, so are you at the equator?


----------



## Giff

No that's about the right angle. North up, South down Leeds to the right..


----------



## devonwoody

Marcros, you gave me a crick in the neck looking at that one, and then my web page froze also for one reason or another, so you upset it as well.  

You certainly look after your plants.


----------



## marcros

Sorry, dw!

The price if the oak was comparable to 4 pieces of trellis from b and q so it isn't that extravagant. We don't charge ourself labour on these projects and it got me out of the house whilst the outlaws were visiting!


----------



## JakeS

DTR":nennadks said:


> Fortunately I only own one book anyway. I got the support method from a furniture making book written in the late forties



I had no idea _Nineteen Eighty-Four_ was about furniture making! I must read it again, clearly I've got it mixed up with something else. ;-)


----------



## monkeybiter

marcros":ds043vd0 said:


> it got me out of the house whilst the outlaws were visiting!



Must remember that one. :twisted: (hammer)


----------



## Doris

JakeS":3fwatkc3 said:


> DTR":3fwatkc3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fortunately I only own one book anyway. I got the support method from a furniture making book written in the late forties
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had no idea _Nineteen Eighty-Four_ was about furniture making! I must read it again, clearly I've got it mixed up with something else. ;-)
Click to expand...


lol







Castaway man with Wilson. Carved and whittled from spalted silver birch and walnut.


----------



## Berncarpenter

Scabbard made from reclaimed mahogany for my dovetail saw.

Cheers Bern


----------



## devonwoody

Nice work. 

Have you made these sort of things before? Over the years I have found making a tool holder in timber can result in rusting of tool because timber takes up I assume some of the local humidity in a workshop. Perhaps your environment is different to mine.

Have others had any adverse effects?


----------



## Berncarpenter

This is a first, I have copied the design from a nice old back saw that was owned by a fellow student on the ATC class.










My workshop is nice and dry but thanks for the tip off , i will keep an eye on it .

Cheers Bern


----------



## monkeybiter

devonwoody":38h1blaj said:


> Over the years I have found making a tool holder in timber can result in rusting of tool because timber takes up I assume some of the local humidity in a workshop. Have others had any adverse effects?



I have made the mistake of leaving assorted bits of timber on my TS, only to find a 'shadow' of surface rust a day or two later on removal.


----------



## DennisCA

Outfeed table for my table saw, folds down, still a work in progress but it works and I've used it, also home made push sticks on picture, took the plans from Mathias Wandels site, like them very much, will make another pair of thicker plywood:


----------



## navypaul

bench for the kitchen from poplar with iroko and oak inserts, it has small castors set deep in to the base to allow bench to appear to float on the tiles


----------



## mfarrar

After two years of work in my spare time I finally finished this


----------



## monkeybiter

Two years well spent!


----------



## Mikeee

Made this over the last few days - Wh Am Oak veneered MDF for the sheets with solid Wh Am Oak face pieces - pocket hole joinery.

Finished with 3 coats of Danish Oil - first ever attempt at making and fitting draws, I need a little more practice at aligning the draw fronts.

I am still starting out with woodworking and this is my first ever cabinet so please critique away.


----------



## Benchwayze

monkeybiter":31oind9x said:


> Two years well spent!



And you can repair my Gibson any time you like! Lovely work, especially with the abalone. 
Keep frettin'

John


----------



## devonwoody

mfarrar":2vr1n7q2 said:


> After two years of work in my spare time I finally finished this




Nice work and the album at photobucket was a good source of your work as well.


----------



## devonwoody

Mikeee":32opgpjb said:


> Made this over the last few days - Wh Am Oak veneered MDF for the sheets with solid Wh Am Oak face pieces - pocket hole joinery.
> 
> Finished with 3 coats of Danish Oil - first ever attempt at making and fitting draws, I need a little more practice at aligning the draw fronts.
> 
> I am still starting out with woodworking and this is my first ever cabinet so please critique away.




You must be proud and satisfied, that is a good workpiece.


----------



## devonwoody

navypaul":3pbq3xvf said:


> bench for the kitchen from poplar with iroko and oak inserts, it has small castors set deep in to the base to allow bench to appear to float on the tiles


 

I like your design and work on that piece


----------



## devonwoody

DennisCA":22hj8zn5 said:


> Outfeed table for my table saw, folds down, still a work in progress but it works and I've used it, also home made push sticks on picture, took the plans from Mathias Wandels site, like them very much, will make another pair of thicker plywood:




Yes interesting.


----------



## DennisCA

I guess not, I was very happy about when I had it done though...


----------



## bexupnorth

Made use of the three overhead cupboards left over from our eBay kitchen:

Added the top, valance, some paint and handles. 

I'm pleased with the result, but more to the point so is our lass 

Ade


----------



## mfarrar

Thanks for the comments on my guitar, yes I think it was worth the work in end. Bench what's wrong with your Gibson? I think repairing can sometimes be harder than making!


----------



## Benchwayze

mfarrar":3nzsmf3u said:


> Thanks for the comments on my guitar, yes I think it was worth the work in end. Bench what's wrong with your Gibson? I think repairing can sometimes be harder than making!



Hi MF...

I was getting at the fact your work is good enough for anyone to entrust a guitar to you. In my case, there'd be the distance factor! 

The Gibson needs a couple of replacement frets, but the fingerboard is also 'bound', so any problems are magnified. Fortunately, I discovered that John Diggins is still working and is just the other side of the city, so I will probably take it to him. As you say, repairs are more of a problem than making, but to keep an expensive guitar in service, they are necessary. If only to give my son something worth selling, come the day! :mrgreen: 

Cheers 
John


----------



## mfarrar

Benchwayze":3ttd7xoa said:


> mfarrar":3ttd7xoa said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the comments on my guitar, yes I think it was worth the work in end. Bench what's wrong with your Gibson? I think repairing can sometimes be harder than making!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi MF...
> 
> I was getting at the fact your work is good enough for anyone to entrust a guitar to you. In my case, there'd be the distance factor!
> 
> The Gibson needs a couple of replacement frets, but the fingerboard is also 'bound', so any problems are magnified. Fortunately, I discovered that John Diggins is still working and is just the other side of the city, so I will probably take it to him. As you say, repairs are more of a problem than making, but to keep an expensive guitar in service, they are necessary. If only to give my son something worth selling, come the day! :mrgreen:
> 
> Cheers
> John
Click to expand...


I did have a lot of help on the build from a luthier, couldn't have done it on my own as this was my first woodworking project.

Replacing frets should be quite easy, if they aren't glued they come out quite easy with the right tool. Not sure about the fret binding, if the fret just sits ontop of the binding then I guess the fret wire tongue that goes into the fret slot is probably just removed where the binding is. If that's the case I can't see a guitar tech charging much, though I don't know what they generally charge.

Nice artwork by the way, I particularly like Autumn fire.


----------



## Mikeee

Hi again,

The missus liked my previous TV stand so I decided to knock up a sofa end table to match (opened up access to the shelf, reduced the width and used just one draw).







And with the matching TV stand (still yet to get the electronic units to go in the shelf under the TV!)






As with the first one, all is made with Wh Am Oak veneered MDF for the sheets and Solid Wh Am Oak face pieces. 3 coats of Danish oil to finish.
















For those who are interested - all the materials cost around £100 in total (both projects) and i still have some 171mm x 19mm oak PAR left plus some random bits of 19mm oak veneer mdf. Thinking of a magazine rack to supplement the sofa foot stool.

This last project took two days to build and finish (last coat of oil is drying now).


----------



## Alexam

Fantastic job you did there. Something to be proud of. Well done.


----------



## devonwoody

Mickee, coming from your locality you have got to be good.


----------



## Benchwayze

Straightforward design, made special by just one angled cut. Very nice indeed. 

John


----------



## gregmcateer

Nice work, Mikee. Should keep her quiet for a while


----------



## pcb1962

Alexam":3qxsytsb said:


> Fantastic job you did there. Something to be proud of. Well done.


+1, Very impressive


----------



## Setch

> Replacing frets should be quite easy, if they aren't glued they come out quite easy with the right tool. Not sure about the fret binding, if the fret just sits ontop of the binding then I guess the fret wire tongue that goes into the fret slot is probably just removed where the binding is. If that's the case I can't see a guitar tech charging much, though I don't know what they generally charge.



On Gibsons the frets are bookended by the binding, rather than overlapping it. At each fret end a little nub of binding covers the fret end. Replacement frets need to be precisely fitted in between these nubs, unless you or for the less conservative approach of a complete refret and removing the nubs. This can be damaging to the instrument value, despite being more practical, and providing additional fret width for extreme string bends.


----------



## Benchwayze

Setch":20qqvazz said:


> Replacing frets should be quite easy, if they aren't glued they come out quite easy with the right tool. Not sure about the fret binding, if the fret just sits ontop of the binding then I guess the fret wire tongue that goes into the fret slot is probably just removed where the binding is. If that's the case I can't see a guitar tech charging much, though I don't know what they generally charge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Gibsons the frets are bookended by the binding, rather than overlapping it. At each fret end a little nub of binding covers the fret end. Replacement frets need to be precisely fitted in between these nubs, unless you or for the less conservative approach of a complete refret and removing the nubs. This can be damaging to the instrument value, despite being more practical, and providing additional fret width for extreme string bends.
Click to expand...


Thanks Setch. 


Either way, I have to get this done. The frets are well-worn; so low they are causing buzzing due to fouling the higher frets when the strings are depressed. It's also affecting intonation, so it's going to be a costly little interlude! Still, at least the guitar will be worth selling, come the day my stuff is dispersed! :mrgreen: This is a jazz guitar Setch, so any 'bends' are not extreme.  

Back to the thread please! :lol: 

John


----------



## Mikeee

gregmcateer":qk4y3x0k said:


> Nice work, Mikee. Should keep her quiet for a while


Hah cheers, so i too would have thought - her order book is getting larger by the day.



devonwoody":qk4y3x0k said:


> Mickee, coming from your locality you have got to be good.


Unfortunately I have only just moved here so have none of the furniture making skills in my blood.

Thanks all for your kind comments!


----------



## ColeyS1

I had loads of slithers of wood which would have otherwise been cut up for firewood and thought I'd try making something useful.




Took ALOT longer than I thought, i made 16 in total. I left the oak sawn with just a light sanding and fixed them together with staples and a blob of pva. I've got some silver cable ties coming which should hopefully hold all the crates together. I did try using copper twisty ties that they use on potato bags but they digged in a bit too much. Should provide a bit of much needed storage, just the time it took was a bit mind numbing !


----------



## Walney Col

I've just this minute put the first coat of wax onto my latest scroll saw creation. 














Originally made as one tall bowl I sliced the top three rings off to make into a separate dish in which the bottom half now sits.


----------



## monkeybiter

I think you should do a WIP of one of those Col, looks v.nice, and I'd have it sussed but for the black inserts.


----------



## Walney Col

monkeybiter":jzmhucn2 said:


> I think you should do a WIP of one of those Col, looks v.nice, and I'd have it sussed but for the black inserts.


I have Mike. See here... https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/a-segmented-eye-bowl-pattern-t82779.html


----------



## Benchwayze

ColeyS1":zimkk2cv said:


> I had loads of slithers of wood which would have otherwise been cut up for firewood and thought I'd try making something useful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took ALOT longer than I thought, i made 16 in total. I left the oak sawn with just a light sanding and fixed them together with staples and a blob of pva. I've got some silver cable ties coming which should hopefully hold all the crates together. I did try using copper twisty ties that they use on potato bags but they digged in a bit too much. Should provide a bit of much needed storage, just the time it took was a bit mind numbing !




I admire your tenacity and patience Coley. 

I should do this. I have mucho scrap I could use to make scrap storage! I'd stick 'em at the foot of the drive with a price tag on them. :mrgreen:


----------



## Walney Col

finished


----------



## Scottlefley

Last thing i made for some friends premature twins...made from reclaimed oak from an old welsh dresser that was in a right state!!


----------



## AndyT

These are two desk paper trays. They are for a musician with a lot of big scores to keep tidy so they are A3 size, though one has a removable divider to take 2 x A4 if necessary.
The sides are redwood (old leftover bits of t&g boarding) and the bottoms are 4mm ash faced ply (left over from a bookcase project). Construction was a groove for the bottom and ordinary through dovetails at the corners, with a little mitre to hide the ends of the ploughed through grooves.
All hand tool work. Not the neatest (so no close ups) but they hold together. Finished with spirit sanding sealer and wax.


----------



## Berncarpenter

Dovetail template for my Dad, made 20 of these for my fellow students on the Schwarz tool chest class . Dad liked the look of them and wanted one so this is the first of the next batch . Made from birds eye maple and babinga 1 in 6 pitch.

Cheers Bern


----------



## DennisCA

I consider this my first actual woodworking project as opposed to whatever rough jobs I've done so far in the garage. A simple shoe rack (might want to shellac it yet) made from surplus material after housebuilding, made it during sunday-monday:
















Even as small a project as it was I felt I learned how to do better / differently in the future when cutting grooves and tenons (almost all work done on my table saw, then light sanding)


----------



## ColeyS1

Benchwayze":3igxn9yb said:


> ColeyS1":3igxn9yb said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had loads of slithers of wood which would have otherwise been cut up for firewood and thought I'd try making something useful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took ALOT longer than I thought, i made 16 in total. I left the oak sawn with just a light sanding and fixed them together with staples and a blob of pva. I've got some silver cable ties coming which should hopefully hold all the crates together. I did try using copper twisty ties that they use on potato bags but they digged in a bit too much. Should provide a bit of much needed storage, just the time it took was a bit mind numbing !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I admire your tenacity and patience Coley.
> 
> I should do this. I have mucho scrap I could use to make scrap storage! I'd stick 'em at the foot of the drive with a price tag on them. :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

Thanks John. I knew after the first 3 it was gonna take a little longer then I expected. It'd be alot quicker if you were to buy in planks specifically for the job, but where's the fun in that :lol: 
My mate asked me what they were for and I convinced him I was buying potatoes to store over the winter which would last me through till the new year


----------



## Benchwayze

Don't worry SC. 

I have plenty of 2 x 1 (45mm x 20mm) hanging around. It's only pine, but good enough for storing spuds! (I liked that BTW. Not a lot... but I liked it! :lol: :lol: :lol:

John


----------



## cusimar9

This was just a very quick corner TV table I threw together from scrap wood for our conservatory. Took just a few hours so nothing fancy:


----------



## ColeyS1

Bit cheeky to post same thing twice  but here it is in situ




Hopefully I'll fill it up with my books to add a bit more colour later on. It was surprisingly quite fun cable tieing it all together :lol:


----------



## monkeybiter

Was the toolbox fit a happy coincidence?


----------



## ColeyS1

monkeybiter":19hlsybf said:


> Was the toolbox fit a happy coincidence?


:lol: yeah, it looks totally out of place though- Could do with being shot blasted or something ! I always wanted to have a sort of industrial looking working office type room. I thought the dremel tin kinda looked cool..... ish 
I guess you spotted the extra two crates were an after thought. They look a bit wierd but im not sure how else to arrange them ?


----------



## flounder

Just finished this Ukulele for my wife. It is all made of Koa, apart from the neck and internal bracing.


----------



## devonwoody

Looks great, would have loved to have seen a wip on the item.


----------



## rafezetter

ColeyS1":octpp5hz said:


> monkeybiter":octpp5hz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Was the toolbox fit a happy coincidence?
> 
> 
> 
> :lol: yeah, it looks totally out of place though- Could do with being shot blasted or something ! I always wanted to have a sort of industrial looking working office type room. I thought the dremel tin kinda looked cool..... ish
> I guess you spotted the extra two crates were an after thought. They look a bit wierd but im not sure how else to arrange them ?
Click to expand...


maybe an overlapped swirl? you know, one on its side with another on end, sitting on the outside edge of on it's side and so on... creating a 5th "box" in the middle.


----------



## gilljc

A couple of boxes, one with mitred joints, double bevel inlay and 'normal' hinges, and one with butted (?) joints with biscuits with hidden brass rods for hinges. The inlid box is finished with wax and the plain box as yet unfinished







they are not as lopsided as they look in photos, actually quite square...


----------



## Flatlander

The last thing I made, the first picture shows it in the workshop before the finish was applied, the second it in place...


----------



## whiskywill

flounder":2bz7tr0d said:


> Just finished this Ukulele for my wife. It is all made of Koa, apart from the neck and internal bracing.



Very nice. Where do you buy your machine heads? Do they come in 4's or do you have to buy multiples of 6 and split them?


----------



## Walney Col

1 candle power lamp.


----------



## Dave Harvey

That is an amazing piece of work. I wish I had some of your talent


----------



## Walney Col

It's very kind of you to say that Dave. 
In case you haven't already come across it there's a WIP on the pagoda here which might give you a few pointers:-
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/pagoda-light-shadow-box-t83292.html

Col.


----------



## mqbernardo

there is some amazing work on this thread. really an inspiration.

my most recent, a classical guitar (rosewood and spruce, mostly).

cheers,
Miguel.


----------



## jools182

First effort, gas meter cabinet, almost finished when i plug the screw holes


----------



## flounder

[\quote]

Very nice. Where do you buy your machine heads? Do they come in 4's or do you have to buy multiples of 6 and split them?[/quote]


I bought them off ebay as a set of 4 as I really liked the koa buttons!


----------



## Steveshj

Hi,

Thought I'd post a couple of pictures of a jewelry box I made for my wifes' birthday. I have never made anything like this before, most of my projects are small pieces of furniture, so I was in very unfamiliar territory!

The box is African mahogany with maple internals, finish is blonde shellac with a clear wax top coat.











I made many, many errors in this project, but overall I am pleased with it, more importantly my wife is happy with it, so all is well. 

So plenty into the experience pot for next time!

Cheers

Steve


----------



## Benchwayze

Lovely work; that should earn you a few brownie points. 
No criticism Steve, but my old eyes saw a 'Meccano' Box at first glance. Maybe that's because I am thinking of making one! 

Regards 
John


----------



## devonwoody

I think it is a lovely piece of cabinet making as well and thinking about its size means you have had to work very accurately.


----------



## Steveshj

Hi,

Thanks for the kind comments praise indeed!

Benchwayze, I too have "old eyes" and remember the old wooden Meccano boxes, never had one myself, but a few more drawers and I do see your point.

Devonwoody, you are spot on, this type of intricate work (inlaying, half blind dovetails on drawers less than 2 inches high, etc) was unknown to me and my usual level of accuracy quite simply was not good enough! A huge learning curve!!

As you can imagine, SWMBO filled the box up pretty quickly, so Mk II may well be on the drawing board!

Cheers

Steve


----------



## Water-Mark

flounder":ibdof2th said:


> Just finished this Ukulele for my wife. It is all made of Koa, apart from the neck and internal bracing.



love this, absolutely stunning.
I might get around to playing mine now.

I suppose this counts as the last thing I actually finished, which was a while ago  




It's a string jig for making bowstrings for archery









Made entirely from repurposed materials,
Wood is wenge and came from the kitchen fitters first attempt at our upstands and the brass is all plumbing scrap with a strip from an old fireplace.

I was chuffed as it's also the first thing I've made out of wood in some twenty years, but like all of my projects it still needs finished as the wood is still untreated.


----------



## Walney Col

A new workbench for the smaller of my two sheds.
Built from 2x4 joists and a single sheet of 18mm sheathing ply.





Col.


----------



## xy mosian

A Fruit Bowl carved from a piece of Sycamore felled in my garden earlier this year.


----------



## vinnie_chip

Burr elm shelf I just made


----------



## monkeybiter

xy mosian":1tdprsoh said:


> A Fruit Bowl carved from a piece of Sycamore felled in my garden earlier this year.



Those are some impressively flat surfaces, nice bowl too.


----------



## devonwoody

xy mosian":1q3i9cca said:


> A Fruit Bowl carved from a piece of Sycamore felled in my garden earlier this year.



I like it and very interesting, how did you go about carving the bowl, any details would be interesting?


----------



## devonwoody

vinnie_chip":8idjiayx said:


> Burr elm shelf I just made



Good thinking, I like the idea.


Did you hand plane or sand the surface?


----------



## vinnie_chip

Hi devonwoody, I put it through the planer thicknesser, sanded to 240g, epoxy'd the cracks then finished with 2 coats of satin varnish.


----------



## Benchwayze

vinnie_chip":9hduosew said:


> Hi devonwoody, I put it through the planer thicknesser, sanded to 240g, epoxy'd the cracks then finished with 2 coats of satin varnish.



Very nice piece of 'rustic' work. It's given me ideas for a bit of waney-edged walnut I have. It should look good in my new bathroom!

Cheers

John


----------



## vinnie_chip

Nice one  Dont suppose you have got any walnut spare?


----------



## Benchwayze

vinnie_chip":cverat6u said:


> Nice one  Dont suppose you have got any walnut spare?




Vinnie,

I have one piece about four feet long, which varies in width from 2 feet to 1 foot. It's a board from the middle of a squat bole, and both edges are waney; although the bark has all fallen off over the years. Spare bits I have are mostly weird shaped offcuts I can't bring myself to ditch.

I could split the plank up the middle, but it would mean having sapwood on both halves! :lol: 

John


----------



## Noggsy

This was requested by good friends for their wedding. The spec was 14", natural-edged platter for cheese. The only thing I could find was some cherry trunk which was only felled this year, so there was loads of movement and it was obviously end-grain. I sliced it with a chainsaw a few months ago, then sealed it with pva. I then mounted on a screw-chuck a couple of weeks ago and turned it slightly hollow. The cracks were then filled with epoxy mixed with brass powder, left to harden and then skimmed. Finally sanded up to 2000 and finished with osmo. They were the simple steps, but I've missed all the swearing out, especially when my lathe broke a few days before. I learned loads, especially about epoxy and brass.

On the lathe;





Finished;





Full of cheese (me trying not to cry);


----------



## Dangermouse.

Finished this, I love auctions and thought I'd give a gavel and anvil a go.


----------



## xy mosian

xy mosian":1j8rxk3n said:


> A Fruit Bowl carved from a piece of Sycamore felled in my garden earlier this year.





devonwoody":1j8rxk3n said:


> I like it and very interesting, how did you go about carving the bowl, any details would be interesting?



Hi DW, 
This was made from a half of the largest lump of a Sycamore I had felled earlier this year. Cut, not quite down the middle, by hand. Then of course what to make with it. I have never carved a large bowl, never had a lump this size to work with before. Some years ago, at a woodworking show, I picked up an Ashley Iles gouge number 31, about 19mm I think. That was from the 'reduced price' box with no handle. A confession, I bought it because it looked as if it wood be useful, and it is a glorious shape  . Apparently their quality control were not satisfied with it and so would not sell it complete as first quality. I can find nothing amiss and saved about a fiver when I had bought a handle as well. Here was my chance, basically I chisel carved a parallel flat on the outer curved surface to act as base and set to work on the sawn surface with the No. 31. The wood was spitting at me as I chopped away but the gouge certainly took some welly, enough that the box head on my mallet split anyway. The rectangular shape was the biggest I could get out of the half log, I went as deep as I dared, to a bottom thickness of 10mm, or there abouts. As with planing I smoothed out the crests between the grooves with flatter sweep gouges. I cut the outside with a hand saw, sorry Mike, and roughly finished the corners with gouges and spokeshaves. 

By then I was getting to a stage that would be easier with drier wood. I left it alone for about 6 weeks, weighing it weekly. Once the weight seemed to have stabilised I set about finishing it. Again gouges, with smaller, finer cuts, a block plane and scrapers. Using thumb planes did cross my mind but I felt there were too many changes of curvature at the inside corners. It was difficult at the rim going across the grain, this broke up rather than cutting well. Eventually I made up some shellac sanding sealer and that sorted the problem. Using the sealer all over gave me much better finishing all round, I re-learn something too often these days.  

The final finish is sanding sealer followed by a chilled beeswax. Swmbo is happy with her new fruit bowl, I am happy with a carved piece which is part of the, short, history of our occupation here.

Thanks for asking.
xy





The image is taken from a pdf of the Ashly Iles catalogue, I hope they don't mind. The catalogue has some interesting pages about their manufacturing process and can be found here:-
http://www.ashleyiles.co.uk/ashley_iles_catalogue.html


----------



## devonwoody

Well you have definitely produced a piece of art and the hard work which it must have been in my opinion was worth the effort.


----------



## Doris

Commissioned piece I just finished.


----------



## Benchwayze

Nice one Doris. It reminds me; all I need now is the beard and the red coat!


----------



## xy mosian

I like that. A timely reminder, thank you.
xy


----------



## ColeyS1

After recently making a new stand for the lathe I needed a few little lathe projects to make the stand build seem worth while. 




I also had a largish piece of sundela board left over and it seemed like quite a fun thing to do. Sundela has a couple coats of clear varnish and the front picture is stuck onto 6mm birch ply to hold it altogether. Its nearly my first attempt at intarsia but some of the joints are a bit questionable  :lol:


----------



## rafezetter

Noggsy":1ry3e9cv said:


> This was requested by good friends for their wedding. The spec was 14", natural-edged platter for cheese. The only thing I could find was some cherry trunk which was only felled this year, so there was loads of movement and it was obviously end-grain. I sliced it with a chainsaw a few months ago, then sealed it with pva. I then mounted on a screw-chuck a couple of weeks ago and turned it slightly hollow. The cracks were then filled with epoxy mixed with brass powder, left to harden and then skimmed. Finally sanded up to 2000 and finished with osmo. They were the simple steps, but I've missed all the swearing out, especially when my lathe broke a few days before. I learned loads, especially about epoxy and brass.
> 
> Finished;



Forgive my ignorance but why is the epoxy green? Is that a tarnishing effect in the brass or was it the base colour of the epoxy?


----------



## Benchwayze

What did you learn about epoxy and brass (or other metal) filings Rafe? 

Years ago, I tried to 'cast' some fibreglass resin, mixed with brass filings, in an effort to turn some parts for a telescope (That I never finished.  ) I just couldn't seem to get enough brass filings in the mix! :mrgreen: 

There you go. Happy Days! 

John


----------



## SammyQ

Completely wrapped my kitchen and bathroom 'return' in 2" polyiso insulation, topped off with twinwall, then wood framing to imitate half-timbering. First two pikkies show how, last one shows patio nearly finished. 

Sam


----------



## cgarry

Another beginners project for me. A pizza board made from random hardwood scraps that I bought:






A nice simple project but good practice for edge jointing!


----------



## Benchwayze

Hris, 

Are your Pizzas bouncy enough to play Table-Tennis? :lol: :lol: :lol: 

Sorry. Couldn't resist. 

Nice neat job. And useful. (I'd use it as a cheese board, as I don't eat pizza!) I can't stand the garlic. :mrgreen: 

Cheers. John


----------



## cgarry

LOL John!

Funny you should say that, my friend and I tried to have a game of table-tennis using it and the plywood template. Although they look the part they are a bit heavy to get any spin on the ball!

The shape was copied from a wooden pizza board I bought years ago but which got ruined when somebody decided that it needed to be cleaned in the dishwasher... I am very pleased with the replacement, it was satisfying to make but it will probably see more use as a cheese board with me too.

Cheers,
Chris


----------



## sawdust maker

This was the last thing I made. I started it in 2007 and it still needs some bits doing to it. However, I used Satin wood for the quarter columns and didn't have adequate dust protection so became sensitive to the Satin wood and the mahogany it's made out of. Also I filled my work shop with the toxic dust. Will fit out the top two drawers as a desk when I pluck up enough courage to work with mahogany again. Only just got it my garage/workshop clean and have been able to started work on another project. In oak this time.


----------



## monkeybiter

Wow! Very impressive! Shame about the cost.


----------



## DTR

I love the grain on the drawer and door fronts!


----------



## Noggsy

Beautiful SM.

The epoxy was green until it was polished and then it became brass/gold coloured. I don't know why it was green, possibly because the brass powder was retry old and had oxidised (my friend's theory).


----------



## sawdust maker

It should have had the same flame veneer drawers as the doors. But I made the mistake of buying only the leafs I needed. I made a mess of one so I didn't have enough matching leafs to finish the job, and had to do the rather strange job, I've done. Lesson learned -buy one more leaf than you need.


----------



## Woodchips2

This project does not have much woodwork in it but serves a useful purpose.

My wife is unable to walk without the aid of a rollator. Recently we bought a mobility scooter which has enabled her to get around town and see country parks etc. However if we cannot get access with the scooter to get refreshments or use the toilet she needs to revert to the rollator. 

I made this simple frame of wood and steel hollow section that can carry either a three or four wheel rollator.
















Regards Keith


----------



## devonwoody

Good work, noticed the mobility scooter has a speedometer as well.


----------



## Woodchips2

devonwoody":hrsj45qk said:


> Good work, noticed the mobility scooter has a speedometer as well.


Thanks DW. Hope my wife does not have to go on a speed awareness course if she gets booked :lol: 
Regards Keith


----------



## xy mosian

Great. Well done. I'm sure that is extremely useful.

xy


----------



## sawdust maker

Made for my wife's prized possession John Walker's signed guitar.


----------



## Owl

Nice, but who's that bloke stood inside it with a camera ?


----------



## sawdust maker

Yes, maybe I should have used non-reflective glass.


----------



## Baldhead

Made this for the wife's sister, her married names Smith and she lives in Cramlington, face is 9mm MDF, I printed the lettering out onto thin card and after cutting it out I stuck it on with Prit, then I gave the face a final coat of white paint, then painted the lettering black. I cut the numbers out with a jigsaw, I did intend to cut the missing numbers and place them around the face, I decided not to because
1 I haven't got the time (sorry for the pun)
2 I'm not sure how I could stick them to the wall

Baldhead


----------



## 8squared

Nothing special just a holder for my new chisels... I'm very happy with it as its far better than the holder I had for my flat handle chisels


----------



## Owl

Made this for our g/grandchildren, as I have only a dewalt tablesaw it took a lot of filing to make the woodpecker shape.
The body is motionless but the head moves.


----------



## DiscoStu

Well mine isn't exactly attractive. However I have just made this:






Basically it's 8 blast gates all connected up. One end will go to my cyclone that is attached to my shop vac. The gates will then connect to my tools and I'll have 1 free for handheld tools etc. 

I'll take another photo when it's in place. 

The idea was very much nicked from Peter Parfit - so thanks to him.


----------



## 8squared




----------



## DennisCA

A mobile base for my table saw, not the pretty kind of woodworking, but extremely useful since it's hard to move a saw that weighs something like 270kg otherwise. Matthias Wandel gave me the inspiration for the design, I basically copied his design except I had to put everything a bit higher up because it got in the way of the dust port on the left side otherwise, wheels where too big to get it under the dust port so I had to go up. I think it makes the whole thing more stable like that anyway. I also didn't cut into the boards to make the ramps, I made those separately and screwed them into place later.










Lifted up.





Had to take it all apart after a few lifts and shore everything up with angle and straight irons (if that's the english word for them) because the softwood its made of wasn't up to the task on it's own. Now it ought to hold up, every part under stress is metal supported.

It's awesome to be able to move it around finally, it's been in a bad spot a while now and I wasn't able to even drag it, too heavy.


----------



## sawdust maker

What it looks like doesn't really matter, it work and that's what matters.


----------



## DiscoStu

I wish someone would tell my wife that!


----------



## Orcamesh

Made this sheet material store thingy-bob. Quite handy. It's hinged at the far end to the wall and has castors so you can swing it out away from the wall and slide sheets in and out. Totally ripped the idea from Marc Spagnuolo/Wood Whisperer video on You tube.


----------



## sawdust maker

Nice one Orcamesh, just wish I had the space for something like that. :|


----------



## Benchwayze

Yes indeed. I like the idea too. I made a smaller version, but I hadn't room for even that. So now I buy sheets as I need them, and use them up asap.


----------



## devonwoody

Next time I see a couple of 8x4 sheets in any condition I will grab them, must be some laying around unwanted.


----------



## Orcamesh

Yeah, it's obviously big enough to take a few 8x4 sheets, a few half sheets and at the back it has a couple of general offcuts storage areas. I always plan to use up my sheet stock as soon as I buy it but the plan always fails and I end up with sheets all over the place. Sheet offcuts also get in the way and it's just so much nicer to be able to get them out of the way. I can actually get to my bandsaw now and use it, what a novelty! I have a double length garage and it just about takes it, space wise.


----------



## spiderlane

I'm almost ashamed to post this rather basic effort amongst the fabulous work on show on this thread, but here is a little project i made up out of offcuts. 

I recently got a new iPhone which didn't fit in the old Apple dock; instead of buying a new one, I though I'd have a bash at making one. Still needs finishing, plus a cable to be added, but works well.














Cheers
Mark


----------



## Zeddedhed

devonwoody":3lzxi2ey said:


> Next time I see a couple of 8x4 sheets in any condition I will grab them, must be some laying around unwanted.



If only you lived in Kent I could supply you with my surplus. I hate the damned things and always seem to have a few left over after a job. Today I actually abandoned 4 full sheets of 25mm MDF and left them on site after I'd finished the job. I couldn't bear the thought of lugging them up three flights of stairs, down a corridor, through a shop and into the van. Then I'd have to manhandle them down the garden to the workshop where I'd end up moving them every other day!!


----------



## Ghengis

@spider

Doesnt matter if its simple, what matters is you made it and it does what you intended.


----------



## Mikeee

Made this a couple weeks ago for the missus, took quite a few bags of soil to fill! I do intend to cap off the tops of the 2x4 legs...at some point.


----------



## arnoldmason8

My tennis club has just built a new clubhouse. I carved this wall plaque to record the event. It was much admired at the official openig last weekend.









Regards--------Arnold


----------



## smoggy49

Hi Arnold,
That looks the dogs cahoona's did use a router or do it by hand?
Chas


----------



## arnoldmason8

Hi Chas Thanks for compliment. 
All the lettering and the tennis raquets were carved by hand and the outer profile and edges were shaped with a router.

Arnold


----------



## 8squared

Made a start on some Christmas gifts.


----------



## DiscoStu

What size but do you need for tea lights?


----------



## devonwoody

Zeddedhed":33lqkme4 said:


> devonwoody":33lqkme4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I see a couple of 8x4 sheets in any condition I will grab them, must be some laying around unwanted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If only you lived in Kent I could supply you with my surplus. I hate the damned things and always seem to have a few left over after a job. Today I actually abandoned 4 full sheets of 25mm MDF and left them on site after I'd finished the job. I couldn't bear the thought of lugging them up three flights of stairs, down a corridor, through a shop and into the van. Then I'd have to manhandle them down the garden to the workshop where I'd end up moving them every other day!!
Click to expand...


I understand your problem and it makes me weep.
We had a builder a block away from us 12 years ago who did loft conversions and brought home each day his redundant 4x2 etc. and put them into a skip in the garden, my wife walking the dog used to tell me ;to get round quick. went on for around 5 years, I have got around 50 garden planters plus lots of garden furniture, he was pleased to see it go and I was pleased to receive, it got me off to a good start on my retirement but cost me lots of cash cutting up the stuff over the years, how about coming down to live in Devon?


----------



## Baldhead

DiscoStu":2psmieo7 said:


> What size but do you need for tea lights?


44mm holesaw is what I use, however I use glass cups available from IKEA (£2 for a dozen) see pic below

Baldhead


----------



## DiscoStu

So do you use a hole saw rather than a fostner bit? I assume you cut you board in half and glue if you use a hole saw?


----------



## Benchwayze

Those glass cups would be useful for watercolour mixing. Get loads of colour and splash it around! Thanks. I'll get some.


----------



## Baldhead

DiscoStu":1agvwlw0 said:


> So do you use a hole saw rather than a fostner bit? I assume you cut you board in half and glue if you use a hole saw?


I use a holesaw simply because there cheaper than a forstner bit, after drilling to the required depth I use a chisel to remove the wood.

Baldhead


----------



## 8squared

DiscoStu":xoq08uzd said:


> What size but do you need for tea lights?



I use a 38mm wood bit, but you need to make sure the holder Isis thick enough so you can make the recess for candle and not have tip of the wood bit protrude out the bottom.


And here's 1 of many I messed up today, I set up a system to get many made in a short period but I've gone wrong somewhere and the holes are off centre.


----------



## ColeyS1

Piano hinge, riveted on - with the help of Joe ! ( my workmates kid ) he doesn't know it yet but I've ordered a couple thumb turn catches that need riveting onto the perspex


----------



## 8squared




----------



## Phil Pascoe

ColeyS1":uoldbuf2 said:


> Piano hinge, riveted on - with the help of Joe ! ( my workmates kid ) he doesn't know it yet but I've ordered a couple thumb turn catches that need riveting onto the perspex



If it's a Jack Russell, it'll still find a way out.


----------



## IHc1vtr+

Cross i made for vicar at fathers funeral, spalted beech and stainless. Vicars pic as i forgot to take any.



[/URL]


----------



## DiscoStu

Made a noughts and crosses game for middle daughters school project.


----------



## johnny.t.

This is my first 'proper'(indoor) piece of non turned woodwork, a large chest/box for my wife(not put her in it yet :lol: ). It's made from pallets that have been accumulating from our house extension over the last several months. It's mostly put together with pocket hole screws and glue, apart from the boards in the front,back,sides which are glued and tacked in place. I sanded it just enough to remove the fuzzies and splinters to retain the rough look and used as many of the pieces with print on as I could. None of the timber was anywhere near straight, so a bit of fettling was needed to make everything fit as best I could get it to.....
No finish as yet as I don't know what would be best, advice please??

Anyway SWMBO likes it so it should be going at the foot of our bed, well when the bedroom is finished.....


----------



## Benchwayze

Johnny.


This is a nice finish, which doesn't alter the colour too much. I'd think it's fine for pallet wood. I used the green label variety for the easel and board I made further back in this thread

http://www.woodoc.com/categories/1/products

HTH
John


----------



## johnny.t.

Thanks John, I'll look in to that, if it doesn't mess with the colour too badly it might be just what I'm looking for


----------



## Baldhead

Johnny that's a nice 'pallet' box/chest, you could use a clear wax finish, something like Briwax?

Baldhead


----------



## Benchwayze

johnny.t.":3q0my5it said:


> Thanks John, I'll look in to that, if it doesn't mess with the colour too badly it might be just what I'm looking for


Johnny.

The liquid is also quite thin, so if you have a rough finish, the stuff will find its way into the irregularities without trouble. 

John


----------



## 8squared

johnny.t.":37geg4zj said:


> not put her in it yet :lol:



I'm almost ready to put my missus in ours, although with no lid she'd easily come after me.

She wanted one out of pallets for the bathroom for towels and such, took me a bit too long to knock one together with just starting the hobby but since its been in place in houses the toilet rolls and two towels.


----------



## DiscoStu

Very quickly knocked up a couple of these for tomorrow night.


----------



## DiscoStu

As you can see I very roughly free handed the wording!


----------



## graduate_owner

Some really super work on display here, as expected. Way past anything my meagre skills could run to.

My personal favourite? The door wedge

Why? Because even I could make one of those.

K


----------



## Benchwayze

DiscoStu":1cm94a8r said:


> Very quickly knocked up a couple of these for tomorrow night.



Pretty good Stu..

The first and last time I tried free-hand lettering, the router decided to take a solo flight to the other end of the workshop. (Well along the bench at least.) I had forgotten that free-hand lettering involves up-cutting at times, and I think that's where I lost it! Maybe I was a little bit too sanguine! :lol: 

Cheers and enjoy your Halloween thing... 

John


----------



## DiscoStu

I don't think it's pretty good, it's a bit naff, but it does the job. It did only take 10 mins and it's only to be plonked outside the house.


----------



## cedarwood

Finished this from a friends hand drawing, made in green oak from the farm, all I need to do now is make another  
chainsaw at the ready tomorrow :mrgreen: 
They will be allowed to dry and maybe check, but that is what she wants to happen.


----------



## xy mosian

I like that curve. To me the bulk of the form seems to be nearer the bottom. It gives a feeling of being well anchored, and therefore stable.
xy


----------



## cedarwood

xy mosian":2qlkbtw0 said:


> I like that curve. To me the bulk of the form seems to be nearer the bottom. It gives a feeling of being well anchored, and therefore stable.
> xy


Well I only made what the lady drew and she is an artist, the drawing came with some measurements on as to how high and max width at the "bulge" all other measurements were mine in order for it to look and feel right, they are destined to be lamps eventually.


----------



## 8squared

Small version of Steve Ramsey's lumber cart, much needed as emptying half my shelf under work table for one or two pieces had become very annoying.


----------



## RogerM

We needed a bigger post box for when we go away, so ran this up from a couple of old 1970s style Sapele banister boards that have been in the garage for the last couple of years. Parts dominoed together, and door run up from 3 pieces, but then run across the router table with a "V" scribing bit to mimic t&g. Finished with one coat of Sikkens Cetol light oak stain, and 3 of Sikkens Filter 7 plus (light oak).


----------



## Setch

That looks great Roger - but I'd be a bit concerned about the lock, anyone can help themselves to the contents and lock the door behind them....


----------



## RogerM

Setch":3rzefkzr said:


> That looks great Roger - but I'd be a bit concerned about the lock, anyone can help themselves to the contents and lock the door behind them....



Possibly, but anyone really determined would just rip it off the wall anyway. We avoid ordering anything of value when we're going away so if they want the usual freebies, double glazing leaflets etc then let them have them!


----------



## cusimar9

RogerM":233id11j said:


> Setch":233id11j said:
> 
> 
> 
> That looks great Roger - but I'd be a bit concerned about the lock, anyone can help themselves to the contents and lock the door behind them....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Possibly, but anyone really determined would just rip it off the wall anyway. We avoid ordering anything of value when we're going away so if they want the usual freebies, double glazing leaflets etc then let them have them!
Click to expand...


This gives me a thought. One thing on my list is to build an Oak gate. Would it be a bad idea to build an oversized letter box to allow the postie to post "medium size" parcels through? I'm sick to death of driving to the depot!


----------



## Benchwayze

Cusimar,

Problem is, sometimes the parcel has to be signed for; defeating the object I guess! I just get them to leave stuff in the porch, and sign an 'X'! :mrgreen:


----------



## 8squared

Don't use my scrollsaw much and when I do its to make templates in 1/8" ply, but seen this design and thought it would be great to make some for my kids and family friends.

Just need painting and a wheeled base.


----------



## mikefab

Combination table/blackboard for our little boy. Top and frame from pine. Standard T&M construction by hand. Frame finished with wax and shellac.





In use:





Strength testing...





In quite pleased because a friend has just asked me to make another one for her grandchild - my first commission!

Cheers,
Mike


----------



## Benchwayze

A great idea Mike. I recently made a chalkboard and easel for my granddaughter, and I think this could have solved another problem. Her own table for meals! 

Nice one. 

John


----------



## johnny.t.

Brilliant idea Mike 8) Bet your little lad is loves it.


----------



## devonwoody

notifications stopped coming in on this thread?


----------



## Benchwayze

Nope. I just had one for your post Woody!


----------



## devonwoody

Thanks its working again now.


----------



## dejaa

Sycamore bookcase to fill entire wall 3Mtrs x 2.4Mts high. Built in 4 sections. The infill panels in the baser are from Ash.


----------



## mikefab

Nice job!


----------



## markturner

Two fences from rosewood and brass for the Wadkin PK. Not strictly necessary, but nothing wrong with some gratuitous pimpage......she's worth it......!!











Cheers, Mark


----------



## morfa

dejaa":5xiimi2z said:


> Sycamore bookcase to fill entire wall 3Mtrs x 2.4Mts high. Built in 4 sections. The infill panels in the baser are from Ash.



Can't you take a better pic than that? It looks amazing even with the less than great photos. Nice job. 

I love this thread.


----------



## Benchwayze

Nice job indeed on the Wadkin. Should serve you well... Happy playing! 
John


----------



## dejaa

morfa":cb0be42c said:


> dejaa":cb0be42c said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sycamore bookcase to fill entire wall 3Mtrs x 2.4Mts high. Built in 4 sections. The infill panels in the baser are from Ash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't you take a better pic than that? It looks amazing even with the less than great photos. Nice job.
> 
> 
> 
> dejaa":cb0be42c said:
> 
> 
> 
> I did, the original photographs were 4000 x 2248 and something like 11MB!! after I resized it and reduced it to fit below the required 1024pixels I ended up with the images posted. I'll have a look at providing a hyperlink to access the originals, which also includes several at different stages of productions. In meantime thank you for your comments. [/quote="dejaa"]
> 
> I love this thread.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## morfa

dejaa said:


> I did, the original photographs were 4000 x 2248 and something like 11MB!! after I resized it and reduced it to fit below the required 1024pixels I ended up with the images posted. I'll have a look at providing a hyperlink to access the originals, which also includes several at different stages of productions. In meantime thank you for your comments. [/quote="dejaa"]
> 
> I'd love to see that. I'd like to do something similar in my library, so the more inspiration the better. It looks like you've done an excellent job there. Somewhere like Flickr:
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/
> 
> or photobucket is good for that sort of thing:
> 
> http://photobucket.com/


----------



## dejaa

morfa":26fsdpz8 said:


> dejaa":26fsdpz8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I did, the original photographs were 4000 x 2248 and something like 11MB!! after I resized it and reduced it to fit below the required 1024pixels I ended up with the images posted. I'll have a look at providing a hyperlink to access the originals, which also includes several at different stages of productions. In meantime thank you for your comments. [/quote="dejaa"]
> 
> I'd love to see that. I'd like to do something similar in my library, so the more inspiration the better. It looks like you've done an excellent job there. Somewhere like Flickr:
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/
> 
> or photobucket is good for that sort of thing:
> 
> http://photobucket.com/
Click to expand...




dejaa said:


> just added a photobucket signature link to my page, not all comments edited yet. [/quote="dejaa"]


----------



## chillicamper

Not quite the last thing I made. A carved house number in yew. 





The yew has a bit of a story behind it. It is a section of Yew that fell in the storms of 1990. I was at forestry college and driving home in my old VW Beetle came across a tree blocking the road. I had my chainsaw with me (as you do) and cleared the road, but couldn't let the wood go to waste. So I measured the exact width of the Beetle's rear seat and cut the maximum sized piece of wood that would fit. When I go home I cut the log into planks and these were stored in my Dad's shed to season. Years later I was in need of some new shelves for some books and remembered the gorgeous wany edged yew planks I'd stored. Luckily my Dad hadn't used them in the meantime. This house number is made from an offcut from the book shelves. 

This is actually the last thing I made. A rustic warning sign made from a roughly split Birch log with the images burnt on using my Peter Childs pyrography machine.


----------



## Racers

Spoon!

My latest hand made spoon made from a cherry log with a Bandsaw spokeshaves (Millers Falls Cigar and home made Hock blade spokeshave) a gouge was used for the bowl and a knife, no sandpaper was used, finished with Boiled Linseed Oil and wax. It took about 3 hours to make.
I used my Lensbaby Edge 80 with the 8mm extension tube to angle the plain of focus across the picture so both ends of the spoon are in focus.



Spoon! by maddpete, on Flickr


----------



## monkeybiter

That curved handle looks quite ergonomic. Will it be a user?


----------



## Racers

Possibly, possibly not. :shock:  

Can't seem to stick them in any thing wet!

Pete


----------



## Robinthree

Finished yesterday , a 6'6" extending to 8ft soilid oak table and bench (bought the chairs seperatley)
made entirely from sleepers finished in wax and oil wax 
The extension has 2 steel arms that slot though the end rails 
The whole set weights over 150kg 
This project nearly did me in !!


----------



## Woodchips2

That's a lot of timber but shouldn't blow over on a windy day :lol: 

Well done =D> 

Regards Keith


----------



## monkeybiter

At risk of sounding weird I bet it's lovely to run your hand across, it certainly looks very tactile.


----------



## no idea

Were those new or reclaimed sleepers and were they softwood or hardwood? I'm thinking of making some outdoor furniture and am unsure which is better/easier to work with.


----------



## Robinthree

Thanks guys  
They are new solid oak sleepers 
It's great to work with but as I say it's very heavy so lifting is a 2-4 man job


----------



## DennisCA

Put a vise on that table and some dog holes and you got a solid workbench. Might not be that good for eating off then however...



Still working on my workshop. Sorry about the bad lighting, I don't have any proper electrics in the shop yet, everything is powered with an extension cord and I broke two lamps this week.

Shelves, Matthias Wandel design:





Started on a french cleat system, boards I am using might be a bit on the small side, but I have so much of this lumber for free that I want to use it. Been considering laminating two boards but I don't have the tools to laminate such long boards. Only a few hangers so far. I will make another hanger for the chisels.










So far I've learned I should use a longer supporting piece on the front of the cleat. I might make future cleats from 18mm plywood instead of this lumber, I think it's more durable. I might also put in more rows between the ones I got already.


----------



## cusimar9

I decided to remove some old cupboards from my workshop and build some new wall cupboards. Made some french cleats to hang them up and they are working out a charm!

Just need to add some cupboard doors which will be donated when we do up our kitchen.


----------



## Doris

I've lost count how many of these I have made for people lately


----------



## DiscoStu

They're lovely!


----------



## DiscoStu

Made a sweet dispenser with my middle daughter (10) for her junior D of E award.


----------



## xy mosian

Doris":j96q4pt2 said:


> I've lost count how many of these I have made for people lately




Very impressive Doris.

xy


----------



## Benchwayze

xy mosian":1d1u7edy said:


> Doris":1d1u7edy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've lost count how many of these I have made for people lately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very impressive Doris.
> 
> xy
Click to expand...

Shouldn't there be one with a red nose Doris? 

PS, Or is Rudolph the one with a walnut nose?  

They are kinda cute SWIMBO says. I agree!


----------



## vinnie_chip

Rippled Sycamore and Elm 3D wall art


----------



## devonwoody

DiscoStu":2w20fq85 said:


> Made a sweet dispenser with my middle daughter (10) for her junior D of E award.



I will make one of them for my dear wife!
She is a fruit gum addict.

how does the feed work and not overflow please?


----------



## Doris

Benchwayze":2fjoioaz said:


> Shouldn't there be one with a red nose Doris?
> 
> PS, Or is Rudolph the one with a walnut nose?
> 
> They are kinda cute SWIMBO says. I agree!



Oh yeah the amount of people saying that there needs to be one with a red nose kind of made me realise I needed to paint one. I painted the walnut coloured one in the end and the picture I posted up was before I painted his nose. So well spotted lol


----------



## Doris

DiscoStu":2fezbl74 said:


> Made a sweet dispenser with my middle daughter (10) for her junior D of E award.



That is awesome! OH could probably do with one for his chocolate raisin fetish.


----------



## Benchwayze

Doris":d677bguu said:


> Benchwayze":d677bguu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't there be one with a red nose Doris?
> 
> PS, Or is Rudolph the one with a walnut nose?
> 
> They are kinda cute SWIMBO says. I agree!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah the amount of people saying that there needs to be one with a red nose kind of made me realise I needed to paint one. I painted the walnut coloured one in the end and the picture I posted up was before I painted his nose. So well spotted lol
Click to expand...


Nice one Doris. Now you should make the 'Santa' and sleigh... For a full set! :ho2 

John


----------



## DTR

Doris":x6gogju9 said:


> DiscoStu":x6gogju9 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Made a sweet dispenser with my middle daughter (10) for her junior D of E award.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is awesome! OH could probably do with one for his chocolate raisin fetish.
Click to expand...


*tries to look innocent*


----------



## Doris

Benchwayze":1hzpo920 said:


> Doris":1hzpo920 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchwayze":1hzpo920 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't there be one with a red nose Doris?
> 
> PS, Or is Rudolph the one with a walnut nose?
> 
> They are kinda cute SWIMBO says. I agree!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah the amount of people saying that there needs to be one with a red nose kind of made me realise I needed to paint one. I painted the walnut coloured one in the end and the picture I posted up was before I painted his nose. So well spotted lol
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Nice one Doris. Now you should make the 'Santa' and sleigh... For a full set! :ho2
> 
> John
Click to expand...


Done it. Lol (although no Santa sorry)


----------



## Steve Maskery

I started making this a couple of months ago. Don't laugh. I didn't go at all in October because there was a glass course on. 

I can't actually remember why I decided to make it, I don't need it specifically now for a job. But anyway, I had a go. Now I am no metalworker, as I'm sure sure that Mr Aspey, who must be retired by now, will testify. And there are no prizes for spotting the Mk1 version...






It's a centre-line finder for my router. It will fit either a 1/4" or 1/2" collet and shows me where the centre-line of the cut will be when I install the actual cutter. I used to have a nice one made for me by my (now-ex) BIL. Now I have a nice new one made by me.

My mate Alan at the Community Workshop help me with advice and lathe setup (it's a really rubbish Clarke lathe, a really terrible piece of "engineering"). But the actual cutting was by yours truly.

I've tried to "blue" the finished item by heating it and dropping it into oil. I was supposed to get it cherry-red, according to Alan, but it never got that far on my kitchen hob, I just got it as hot as I could. I'll see if I still have possession of a blow-lamp and have another go. Apparently this makes it unlikely to rust. As I say, I'm no metalworker.

Anyway, I'm pleased with it.


----------



## Harbo

How did you bend that??

Bluing makes it slightly rust resistant.

Looks the job

Rod


----------



## Racers

Steve, sell the first one as a banana locator :wink:  

Pete


----------



## Steve Maskery

LOL, Pete!

Rod, I was holding it by the small end, turning the big point, and being a bit heavy handed. It'd hard to tell what is and what is not a heavy cut. Anyway, that was the result.

Alan is a smashing bloke. He was an engineer in his working life (electrical, I think, but he has a wide knowledge and experience) and is generous with his time and skills.

S


----------



## Benchwayze

I bought my centre-point Steve. 

I seem to recall it was quite soft. I put it in the collet of my router, clamped to the bench and trued it up with a file, so I knew it was dead centre, for that router. I was going to try hardening it, but I didn't see the need. It isn't a cutter after all, and it did the trick, finding centres for making my base plates, for various jigs. 

I haven't seen it for a few years. But then I haven't seen my shop floor either; for the shavings and dust that are almost ankle deep now! ! :mrgreen:


----------



## DiscoStu

"I will make one of them for my dear wife!
She is a fruit gum addict.

how does the feed work and not overflow please?"

So the lid for the jar has a hole cut in it (big enough to let the sweets through) the piece of wood that is used to collect the sweets has the "tray" routed into it but it only goes from the front to about 1/3 of the way back. The hole in the jar lid is positioned so that it is towards the front of the unit. The rest of the draw is left as solid wood so that when you pull the draw out the solid wood goes under the hole and stops all the sweets from dispensing. I've also routered a grove in the wood below the tray and put a pin in the tray, this prevents the draw from being removed and all the sweets dispensing!

Here is a photo of the grove, hopefully that helps?






Let me know if you'd like any more info.


----------



## Mannyroad

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum. I enjoy woodwork at DIYer level and recent redundancy made my early retirement decision for me, leaving me more time to tinker with 'around the home' woodworking projects in the garage.  

Anyway, I recently bought an old Startrite table saw (in bad shape) that I set about refurbishing and re-powder coating and went on to make an improved Biesemeyer style fence for it (copy of VSC Tools version). I then decided to make a router cabinet and router fence and finally decided to make a trolley unit to put the saw and router cabinet on, to move it around the garage easily. This is the end result, which works quite well:





















I'm having a go at making a new front door for the house next, using Oak or Idigbo. I made a pair of louvre doors this summer (in pitch pine) for the woodshed I built last year (see below), so I'll be using my experience in making them in the front door project. However, I am going to have to pick members brains about the suitability of my ideas for the door because a) I'm not a joiner and b) it's a bit different than the usual construction. I guess I'll need to post in the General Woodworking section for this. 






Anyway, nice to join the forum, I'll likely be spending hours pouring over stuff on here.


----------



## monkeybiter

Very nice quality of work there. And welcome.


----------



## Mannyroad

Thanks Monkeybiter, much appreciated. Is there something I need to do to get notifications of replies to my posts? I don't seem to get them.


----------



## cusimar9

Excellent work there. I like the router table, might be making one myself in the next few weeks.


----------



## Mannyroad

Cheers Cusimar 9. I got my idea from the Woodsmith Plans web pages, but I modified the cabinet for my purposes:

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/3 ... rtable.pdf


----------



## wellywood

Shouldn't there be one with a red nose Doris? 

PS, Or is Rudolph the one with a walnut nose?  

They are kinda cute SWIMBO says. I agree![/quote][/quote][/quote]



The one with the walnut nose is actually Randolph the Brown Nosed Reindeer.
He's second in line to Rudolph and just as fast but he can't stop as quick.


----------



## mseries

Made the frames for some cupboard doors, don't worry I haven't forgotten the panel, they are not glued up yet !!!


----------



## monkeybiter

Quick and dirty gouge block using 3M of plastic waste pipe and ply offcuts. Keeps the business ends protected :wink: 
Just need some identifying marks now (homer)












I will probably extend a base from the front for stability with rack for a single line of palm tools.


----------



## RogerP

A bit of metal working for a change ...


----------



## Benchwayze

monkeybiter":bc768joo said:


> Quick and dirty gouge block using 3M of plastic waste pipe and ply offcuts. Keeps the business ends protected :wink:
> Just need some identifying marks now (homer)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will probably extend a base from the front for stability with rack for a single line of palm tools.


Give 'em all names Biter! :lol:


----------



## lanemaux

Sharp looking bit of work there Roger , would look at home in Q's toolchest.


----------



## chillicamper

Seeing as it's now December, here is a marble Christmas tree I made at the weekend out of some scrap ply, a few marbles & some battery led lights





And here it is lit up


----------



## Benchwayze

Ingenious... Good use for gob-stoppers! Nice One, Merry Chrimble.


----------



## Benchwayze

lanemaux":1sqkfnzk said:


> Sharp looking bit of work there Roger , would look at home in Q's toolchest.



Look after it better than JB would! :mrgreen: 


Very nice work. Someone has a Myford Super 7?


----------



## DTR

SWMBO asked for a nutcracker. Did I go too far?


----------



## Mark A

DTR":3m93nkvq said:


> SWMBO asked for a nutcracker. Did I go too far?


I'd be very worried if I were you...


----------



## RogerP

Benchwayze":2ji5ezwk said:


> lanemaux":2ji5ezwk said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sharp looking bit of work there Roger , would look at home in Q's toolchest.
> 
> 
> 
> Look after it better than JB would! :mrgreen:
> Very nice work. Someone has a Myford Super 7?
Click to expand...

 Thanks .... no out of my price bracket. 

A genuine Chinese 9x20 by Shaoxing Machine Tool Works - before they sold stuff to the re-badgers. 
Been modified/updated/tuned-up/original roughness removed etc.

Like this (which is the same thing re-badged by Harbour Freight). Mine is a delicate shade of green


----------



## pcb1962

RogerP":sdd2lhby said:


> A bit of metal working for a change ...



How did you make the hexagonal hole for the bits?


----------



## RogerP

pcb1962":e8bd48w6 said:


> How did you make the hexagonal hole for the bits?


I used a piece oversized EN8 steel bar in the lathe and drilled out most of waste.
Then used a piece of sharp edged allen wrench held in the tailstock as a broach 
(there is very little metal left to remove). Cleaned up the inside then ran the broach in again. 
Finally I turned it down to finished size. Then I hardened and tempered the end.


----------



## monkeybiter

You can do the same by tapering one end of the allen key offcut and hammering it into the pre-drilled hole, although pulling it back out can be a little difficult.


----------



## RogerP

monkeybiter":39m82xax said:


> You can do the same by tapering one end of the allen key offcut and hammering it into the pre-drilled hole, although pulling it back out can be a little difficult.


That's more or less what I did except I _pushed_ a piece of untapered and end sharpened allen wrench in. 

As the wall is so thin to avoid breakout it's best to start with a much thicker bar and then turn down to finished size.

Guess how I found this out?


----------



## monkeybiter

RogerP":1mri2inx said:


> As the wall is so thin to avoid breakout it's best to start with a much thicker bar and then turn down to finished size.



I was making a table side depth adjuster for the router so I had plenty to play with before finish turning. There was a swaged lip formed around the hole that had to be removed.


----------



## chillicamper

My latest attempt at wood turning. A combination corkscrew and bottlestop made with olive wood.


----------



## Melinda_dd

My latest makes... lots of Christmas tree ornaments...made from off cuts (thanks guys... you know who you are!)
Made for a table top sale and a Christmas fair.... unfortunately both were not advertised by the event organisers.... so no one came


----------



## spiderlane

Here -> https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A45n8hH47yZ5e is my first effort at a bandsaw box. You'll have to forgive the rather large gap between the draw and the outside. I got a bit over ambitious with the internal radius leading to much sanding!

All done on my little Burgess 3 wheel bandsaw with a Tuffsaws blade. 

Cheers
Mark


----------



## Melinda_dd

I really like this box...
I like band saw boxes... but haven't attempted one yet!
I realise sanding is a necessity and that produces gaps
Does anyone have any tips on how to keep the gaps equal around the fronts?


----------



## Water-Mark

You could always glue two strips inside the base or on the underside of the drawer to pick it up slightly.
Might make the gap at the top look tighter and give the impression of an equal gap at the bottom.

I don't think it looks bad as is though.


----------



## spiderlane

> You could always glue two strips inside the base or on the underside of the drawer to pick it up slightly.



yeah, I was planning to do that, I've got some veneer which would be ideal for shims. 

Cheers
Mark


----------



## Melinda_dd

Water-Mark":3qfgrg2o said:


> You could always glue two strips inside the base or on the underside of the drawer to pick it up slightly.
> Might make the gap at the top look tighter and give the impression of an equal gap at the bottom.
> 
> I don't think it looks bad as is though.



No I think it looks awesome as is... but I have seen some on the internet that are nowhere near as good as this one.... just wondered how to sort the gap issue that I'll no doubt have!!!


----------



## spiderlane

Thanks for the kind comments Melinda 

I think the secret (which I managed to fail to do) is the make the inner cut as smooth and as clean possible which means minimal sanding/cleanup. Also I thin it helps to use a thin blade with a nice fine cut. I was doing OK on the main curve but butchered the corners by trying to cut too tight a radius; ended up having to go backwards and forwards a few times and got the blade stuck. 

All the boxes I've seen have fairly large gap which I think looks OK if it's even all the way round (unlike mine)

Good luck and don't forget to post some pics! I personally get lots of inspiration looking at other peoples work

Cheers
Mark


----------



## Melinda_dd

I've seen a some stunning ones on the internet could only dream of making something as good as those!!


----------



## Doris

A dog I carved with a walnut ball for a friends Christmas present.


----------



## xy mosian

Doris, I like that a lot. I like the apparent simplicity. Do you work to own designs?

xy


----------



## xy mosian

Melinda_dd":rcxuz1eg said:


> Does anyone have any tips on how to keep the gaps equal around the fronts?



Hi, I have no experience with making these. However, as the whole piece is made from thinner sections, how about cutting the front section with a sloping cut, fatter towards the outside all around. That way the drawer front would push into its surround and completely close the gap. If the surround were then reduced in thickness the front would be flush. The depth of the drawer would need to be reduced slightly.

xy


----------



## ColeyS1

Phase 1 of the dog house 








I used some left over larch so hopefully it'll tone down after a while. Sheet of metal was left over so didn't really cost me anything besides time. I stupidly thought I could bash it out in an hour - it took 5 !  :lol: hopefully some time add an extra area on top for him to stretch out in the sun.


----------



## Water-Mark

What a cute little dog!

Is that just his garden room, or is he an outdoor dog?


----------



## xy mosian

I hope the littl'un isn't going to be in there in a hail storm. It would turn him barking mad :lol: , and you know what that means with a Jack Russell.

xy


----------



## ColeyS1

Water-Mark":3axn6pyn said:


> What a cute little dog!
> 
> Is that just his garden room, or is he an outdoor dog?


Just a garden play house. He lives in bungalow but at 9.45 am he's allowed to reak havoc with the dog flap open. He usually comes in when I get back from work.
I live close to workshop/work so quite often he comes over shop to help/hinder :lol:








I originally got him for my mum, but for one reason or another I took him on.


----------



## ColeyS1

xy mosian":3psalia3 said:


> I hope the littl'un isn't going to be in there in a hail storm. It would turn him barking mad :lol: , and you know what that means with a Jack Russell.
> 
> xy







Yup, I imagine similar reaction to having a bath - leggit....quick ! :lol:


----------



## xy mosian

Ay! Right enough, a true dog's life.  
xy


----------



## xy mosian

I've just remembered my own dear departed rascal. Isn't it amazing just how far those little legs will spread as they are being lowered towards the bath?
xy


----------



## ColeyS1

xy mosian":23iim07n said:


> I've just remembered my own dear departed rascal. Isn't it amazing just how far those little legs will spread as they are being lowered towards the bath?
> xy


He really doesn't seem to mind the bath part, he quite likes it ! It's the after bath where he goes dolally. He must think..... " I'm damp, I feel damp, I must run away from this dampness, arghhhhh !!" After a rainy dog walk he does exactly the same. I'll unclip the lead and he has a moment to gather his thoughts then bang, he's gone doing laps of the lawn :lol: it's really entertaining to watch. I had to take out pet insurance cause Im sure this might be how he injures himself. How old was yours ?


----------



## xy mosian

My first made it to 12 and the second, Jack Russell cross albino Giraffe, made 13. Had both from pups.
You mention running injuries, I reset dislocated shoulders on both. More so in the smaller first dog. He came limping over and as I stroked his, front, leg to examine for a break it just clicked into place. Vet said that while still warm I couldn't put it back wrong, and if I was causing pain he'd let me know. Of coarse once set he just left, at speed naturally.
xy


----------



## paulrockliffe

Finally getting towards the end of a house renovation project, so doing some more interesting jobs at the moment. Mantelpieces to be done by Christmas was my instructions:



20141210-DSC00896.jpg by paulrockliffe, on Flickr



20141210-DSC00901.jpg by paulrockliffe, on Flickr


----------



## Doris

xy mosian":1de1fyrv said:


> Doris, I like that a lot. I like the apparent simplicity. Do you work to own designs?
> 
> xy


Thanks glad you like it . Yes. I create a marquette from plasticine and then make a template from these and keep the model as a guide. Like my current project. The plasticine model is the one furthest away. It's never identical to the model but you're just trying to get the movement right.


----------



## 8squared

Simple tea light candle holders my kids will paint and give to their teachers.


----------



## Baldhead

8squared said:


> Simple tea light candle holders my kids will paint and give to their teachers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/quote
> 
> What a large family you have
> 
> Baldhead


----------



## xy mosian

Doris":2heiahml said:


> xy mosian":2heiahml said:
> 
> 
> 
> Doris, I like that a lot. I like the apparent simplicity. Do you work to own designs?
> 
> xy
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks glad you like it . Yes. I create a marquette from plasticine and then make a template from these and keep the model as a guide. Like my current project. The plasticine model is the one furthest away. It's never identical to the model but you're just trying to get the movement right.
Click to expand...

So! That's how it's done. Thanks Doris, you certainly have a very good eye. I look forward o seeing more of your work.
xy


----------



## cgarry

My most adventurous attempt so far, a little pine desk for my god-daughter's 3rd birthday. I wish I had taken more pictures during the build, but you live and learn.

The initial SketchUp design:





The basic frame and top:





The top rounded over, plywood panels added and plywood drawers built:





The final version with false drawer fronts, a little mirror in its own frame and stand and the whole thing finished with watered down emulsion and a coat of lacquer.





This has been a great project, forcing me to learn lots of new woodworking skills as well as learning to use SketchUp .

Cheers,


----------



## xy mosian

Well done! The youngster might not appreciate the effort, and skill, that has gone into this, I hope everyone else does. Equally important, you have learned new skills along the way. Winners all around.
xy


----------



## cgarry

Thanks xy. Yes, the parents most certainly do appreciate all the effort that has gone into it and are possibly more surprised than me at how well it came out! Although the child cannot really appreciate the effort, she is thrilled to have her own desk like her big sister.

Now to decide on the next project to put some of those new skills to use.


----------



## Benchwayze

Nice job, and super finish. Time well-spent. 

Cheers

John


----------



## John15

Nice one Chris

John


----------



## romi

my latest work


----------



## romi

romi":di4n28q3 said:


> my latest work


my latest work part II

more photo here

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mass...7637300560?sk=photos_stream&tab=photos_stream


----------



## devonwoody

Good looking furniture, show us your shop.


----------



## cgarry

Beautiful furniture with fantastic attention to detail. How long did all that take?


----------



## romi

devonwoody":g91jegjb said:


> Good looking furniture, show us your shop.


thanks ,i don't have any shop...all my work is custom made


----------



## romi

cgarry":7nuaopfe said:


> Beautiful furniture with fantastic attention to detail. How long did all that take?



thanks,it took me 11 weeks, it was 2 person work , me with my father
furniture is made of oak 
doors and drawers front,are all made of 20 mm Three layered oak(self made,that why it goes went so slowly up to 11 weeks)


----------



## devonwoody

romi":1lfumzp0 said:


> devonwoody":1lfumzp0 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good looking furniture, show us your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks ,i don't have any shop...all my work is custom made
Click to expand...



Interpretation. I meant your workspace.


----------



## romi

devonwoody":29u2wyce said:


> romi":29u2wyce said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> devonwoody":29u2wyce said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good looking furniture, show us your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks ,i don't have any shop...all my work is custom made
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Interpretation. I meant your workspace.
Click to expand...

i hope u can acces the link 

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 560&type=3



https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 560&type=3


----------



## Skeety

After the last post i'm not really sure i'm brave enough to post, but here goes.

This is a small 330mm x 400mm side table I have put together from offcuts of MDF and essentially thin strips of Iroku I had left from a previous project but just sawn off before the main bits were planed and thicknessed.

First piece of furniture I have attempted. Still have to make the base but here is:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... 00a19cab6a

Lots of sanding, it's had 1 coat of Danish oil at this point, it's now had 4 more and looking even better.

Cheers,

Jon.


----------



## monkeybiter

I love the way you've arranged the grain, strikingly different patterns which are probably Marmite to many, but I think it gives it a three dimensional effect.


----------



## rafezetter

Here's another of my projects, but 1st one in this thread... all criticism welcomed but please be gentle.

http://s982.photobucket.com/user/Rafezetter/Pauls TV stand unit/story

Took way longer than I wanted, but learned a fair bit so it's all good.


----------



## Dodge

Last commission of the year just finished and ready for delivery on Monday - A large Sapele fitted bookcase.


----------



## 8squared

Made 19 of these with my kids as gifts for their teachers...

I thought they were just a nice little gift... their teachers thought they were special because unlike the tonnes of chocolates and bottles of wine they had, the kids had put effort into them.


----------



## spiderlane

Those Christmas trees are great. Getting kids to make something it very satisfying for them (and for you no doubt)

Last thing I made : 2 boxes for my kids' first tool kits which they'll be getting as Christmas presents.










I used a technique of printing a mirror image of the text onto the shiny side of some label backing paper and then using this to transfer onto the ply (more detail in this thread -> lettering-for-toolbox-birch-ply-t84863.html)

Cheers
Mark


----------



## Baldhead

Dodge":3efh5bi1 said:


> Last commission of the year just finished and ready for delivery on Monday - A large Sapele fitted bookcase.


Nice to see you back Rog, I knew you couldn't keep away :wink: 

Nice bookcase too.

Merry Christmas

Baldhead


----------



## Baldhead

spiderlane":1qclszs0 said:


> Those Christmas trees are great. Getting kids to make something it very satisfying for them (and for you no doubt)
> 
> Last thing I made : 2 boxes for my kids' first tool kits which they'll be getting as Christmas presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a technique of printing a mirror image of the text onto the shiny side of some label backing paper and then using this to transfer onto the ply (more detail in this thread -> lettering-for-toolbox-birch-ply-t84863.html)
> 
> Cheers
> Mark


Mark the letterings turned out better than I thought it would, I follow Steve Ramsey on YouTube, when I first saw him do this I was going to make wine/port/whiskey boxes for chrsitmas with the recipients name on, unfortunately time was against me, had I known it would have looked as good I would have found the time.

Merry Christmas

Baldhead


----------



## spiderlane

Baldhead":3tbnuvar said:


> Mark the letterings turned out better than I thought it would


Me too!


Baldhead":3tbnuvar said:


> Merry Christmas


And to you. 

Mark


----------



## jumps

something a little different! one of 4 Barn Owl boxes



20141223_124626 by duncan mackie, on Flickr


----------



## John15

Hi Dodge,
That's a super bookcase you have made. I have plans to make a bookcase in Sapeli. It would be first venture with this species. Is the grain difficult to work? I've read it is a very hard wood.
Regards,
John


----------



## Owl

jumps":3qpf3ny7 said:


> something a little different! one of 4 Barn Owl boxes
> 
> 
> 
> 20141223_124626 by duncan mackie, on Flickr




I like it


----------



## Dodge

John15":g3kqtcls said:


> Hi Dodge,
> That's a super bookcase you have made. I have plans to make a bookcase in Sapeli. It would be first venture with this species. Is the grain difficult to work? I've read it is a very hard wood.
> Regards,
> John



PM Sent John


----------



## Dodge

Baldhead":22eojubp said:


> Dodge":22eojubp said:
> 
> 
> 
> Last commission of the year just finished and ready for delivery on Monday - A large Sapele fitted bookcase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice to see you back Rog, I knew you couldn't keep away :wink:
> 
> Nice bookcase too.
> 
> Merry Christmas
> 
> Baldhead
Click to expand...


Still lurking in the background Baldhead :wink: 

Just been ridiculously busy over the last few months


----------



## n0legs

Made these for my Grandmother.
M+T construction for the frames with grooves/dados for the panels. All held together with polyurethane glue.
Painted with 2K paint and primer.
Long ones are approx 7 foot short one is 4 foot.
Spruce/whitewood and plywood.


----------



## jumps

n0legs":2znbehx0 said:


> Made these for my Grandmother...



I'm sure she will appreciate those - they look great


----------



## Doris

jumps":34mnzuxr said:


> something a little different! one of 4 Barn Owl boxes
> 
> 
> 
> 20141223_124626 by duncan mackie, on Flickr


Wow! Thought it was a pizza oven at first.


----------



## monkeybiter

Doris":28hklnro said:


> jumps":28hklnro said:
> 
> 
> 
> something a little different! one of 4 Barn Owl boxes
> 
> 
> 
> Wow! Thought it was a pizza oven at first.
Click to expand...


Barn Owls are much more nutritious. :wink:


----------



## n0legs

jumps":12b52c1q said:


> I'm sure she will appreciate those - they look great



Thanks for that  
Yes she loved them, first time she saw them was yesterday.


----------



## John15

Very nice NoLegs. They look very good indeed.

John


----------



## DTR

Love the planters n0legs


----------



## DTR

Starting to look a bit like a bookcase now. Although I wish I'd just bought a Kindle instead


----------



## Cordy

First box I've ever made; to house a Makita plane which I bought new from eBay
MDF 9 mm; I made a groove with router to take base of box, finished off with water-based paint left over from bedroom project


----------



## n0legs

Dodge":3vvnf9ss said:


> Last commission of the year just finished and ready for delivery on Monday - A large Sapele fitted bookcase.



Very classy, very much like the curved ends =D>


----------



## n0legs

spiderlane":3jfc5jqi said:


> Those Christmas trees are great. Getting kids to make something it very satisfying for them (and for you no doubt)
> 
> Last thing I made : 2 boxes for my kids' first tool kits which they'll be getting as Christmas presents.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a technique of printing a mirror image of the text onto the shiny side of some label backing paper and then using this to transfer onto the ply (more detail in this thread -> lettering-for-toolbox-birch-ply-t84863.html)
> 
> Cheers
> Mark




Perfect, absolutely perfect. Brilliant way to get the little ones interested =D>


----------



## n0legs

jumps":2hz1518s said:


> something a little different! one of 4 Barn Owl boxes
> 
> 
> 
> 20141223_124626 by duncan mackie, on Flickr



Mr & Mrs Owl will be happy in these  
Are they your own design ?


----------



## Ghengis

w235,d70,h440
Inspired to make this after watching Paul Sellars make one in pine, made this from recycled oak taken from scrap kitchen doors, only used hand tools and finished with 4 coats of colron french polish.
Actimm radio controled movement


----------



## Doug B

Couple of fun pieces I made before Xmas

Oak & Padauk slide top box with Ash turned nails left slightly proud on the corners made as a gift for customers of mine












An Oak frame with corner fillets in Padauk






A friend asked me to make this as a present for his mum, he mounted her fathers world war 1 medals, photo & badges in it.


----------



## DTR

I like the medal display case Doug B, it's got me thinking about making a similar one for my grandfather's medals


----------



## Phil Sewell

This is a jewellery box commission I finished just before Christmas if anyone is interested. The 60 in the heart represents a birthday.

Phil.


----------



## marcros

That is excellent. What is the drawer front wood?


----------



## Woodchips2

Great gift box idea Doug. I bet you had some very satisfied customers. =D> 
Regards Keith


----------



## Woodchips2

That jewellery box is beautiful Phil. =D> You'd need a lot of jewellery to fill it. (hammer) 
Regards Keith


----------



## Baldhead

Shut The Box game for my great nephews 18th birthday, made from Mahogany and Maple with a plywood top and base, finished with clear Briwax.


----------



## n0legs

Woodchips2":2bnmxgkd said:


> That jewellery box is beautiful Phil. =D>
> Regards Keith


 
I second that, =D>


----------



## Phil Sewell

Thanks for the kind words. The drawer fronts are burr walnut as is the panel in the lid. The client specified the logo with his wife's initials and left the rest of the design up to me. Yes it is quite large as jewellery boxes go.


----------



## SimonT

Just finished in the workshop for the night, having spent a day making blanks for wood turning i decide to actually turn something so here goes.

My spalted horse chestnut bowl. Approx 2 inches deep and 5 inches wide. Sorry about the poor photos (and the fact its still attached to the lathe, waiting to buff the finish up tomorrow).


----------



## jumps

n0legs":36768m7l said:


> Mr & Mrs Owl will be happy in these
> Are they your own design ?



the design was created by members of the Staffordshire Barn Owl Trust to utilise the recycled plastic sheet materials attributes rather than the conventional 12mm/ 3/4" ply

the latter was used because of the increasing problems with 'marine ply' they were experiencing. 6 and 9mm sheets are used.

I modified the underlying construction because what was easy for me (with workshop and radial arm saw etc) wasn't necessarily easy for others - there's an internal box frame with the landing tray arms being lapped to the upright elements for example; so much easier than trying to add supports to the front afterwards. Simple and strong.

Time will tell; but I'm really hoping that they are a success for the Barn Owls. Currently knocking up a couple of tawny owl boxes from the offcuts and some spare ply too...


----------



## jumps

Phil Sewell":lhykldjw said:


> This is a jewellery box commission ...
> 
> Phil.



really like the contrasts and proportions here. Looks like a huge amount of details work in that piece. =D>


----------



## scrimper

Not sure whether I am allowed to post fretwork stuff here of not?

These are the last items I made...


----------



## Baldhead

scrimper":1gd79xi2 said:


> Not sure whether I am allowed to post fretwork stuff here of not?
> 
> These are the last items I made...


Nice to see some scrollwork and very nice it is too scrimper.


----------



## Cordy

Lovely scroll-work there Scrimper

What types of wood did you use on the stag one ?


----------



## scrimper

Cordy":24x3su70 said:


> Lovely scroll-work there Scrimper
> 
> What types of wood did you use on the stag one ?



Thanks for the kind comments.

It's just recycled scrap wood, the main fretwork part is some 3mm birch ply I found in a factory skip, the surround is an old door frame (ripped and jointed) Mahogany (or one of the lookalikes) the leaves are bits of oak and the little frames are a scrap of maple. The little frames were the hardest part to cut.

Everything I make is from scrap or recycled timber.


----------



## DTR

scrimper":1okgxi15 said:


> Everything I make is from scrap or recycled timber.



I wish I could be that disciplined! Good work =D>


----------



## JohnPW

Three wooden thumb planes, made from maple scraps. Only hand tools used, all finishing off the blade or scraper. The blades are made from ground flat stock (gauge plate) 1.5mm thick. I use these for violin making.


----------



## mouppe

Here are my pieces from the last couple of months. Quite a variety of items: a hand-carved mancala board, a windsor chair and an inlaid chess table.


----------



## jpw123

Some very impressive items , lovely workmanship. I have a vague recollection of using a mancala board when at school as a child. I seem to remember using stones & having to jump over other stones or adding to them to win, i think ? I may be confused, It was nearly 50 yrs ago


----------



## rafezetter

Ok, there's far too much talent in this thread... time to bring it down a notch... or 11.

I actually made this last year, but someone needs to keep us mere mortals from running away and not posting in this thread, so I though I'd whip mine out and wave it about to prove even the average ones are OK to look at 

My card scraper burnisher made from a long thin bit of oak I picked up at Arnold's charity do, that was tapered to a point (hence the 3 wedge bits) and one of the broken milling bits provided by Jimi. I added the bit on the bottom after so that more of the bit was embedded so it was as secure and solid as I could make it.

Design is from a commercial version I found a picture of, burnisher set to 15 deg off 90. Glued together with gap filling epoxy as I couldn't be bothered to perfectly smooth off the saw kerf marks on the faces. The slot I made too large initially, so I shoved some epoxy in there, then waxed one of my scrapers and popped that in until set, now it's nice and snug so I keep the angle for setting the hook just right.

Works well enough for my needs.


----------



## DennisCA

I've made a bunch of things recently, all shop related as I'm still building my shop and will likely be doing so for a while yet.

Workbench, adding drawers still.





Made some more lumber racks, people have commented that this looks unsafe but honestly the weight of the material isn't great, and the pipes tilt upwards and everything is sitting stable, I've tried rocking and hitting it and so forth. At any rate I am gonna build about 3x more of these shelves along the walls of my shop so things will be more spread out later.





Used a junky old drawer and made a mobile stand for my drill press, it's at the perfect height now and on wheels. Storage and mobility, the way to keep a small shop workable.


----------



## Rhossydd

A pair of bedside cabinets in English Ash from Westonbirt's wood sales with American Cherry tops and knobs. I also had to use some English Beech for the back and base.




Made from plans from Fine Woodworking magazine. I don't usually follow plans, but thought it might be a good exercise because of the complexity and variety of joints needed.




The Brusso fittings specified, hinges and catches, were possibly the most expensive bits of the whole project.
Mostly finished with Melamine lacquer, but the top finished with Rustins plastic coating for durability.

Overall a sometimes challenging exercise, but rather satisfying in the end.


----------



## pitch pine

Lovely cabinets. How long did it take to make them?


----------



## Rhossydd

> How long did it take to make them?


Too long ? ;-)
Difficult to quantify really, it's all been worked on in fits and starts when I've had the sort of free time to enjoy the project.
I rough cut from the waney edged boards almost a year ago, left it to settle a bit then thicknessed, bring indoors for another long spell to acclimatise, then really started work last September.
There was a fair amount of time spent practising the joints, making jigs for cutting the hinge recesses, catches etc.
If I had fully dry wood and everything ready to start again tomorrow, I could finish another pair by the end of next week. The project has taught me a lot.


----------



## Racers

Very nice Rhossydd

Pete


----------



## Silverbirch

Yes, very nice.


----------



## DennisCA

OK so here's a normal cabinet door, this one contains chemicals and cleaning agents and stuff. The kids have been trying to get into it and we're tired of having electrical tape on the doors. Looks like a normal door now, no tape.





But if you put a neodymium magnet against the door, in the right place, it'll stick.





Pull it sideways and the door opens, on the inside is a lock with another neodymium magnet in it.





Installed 3 of them so far, need at least 3 more. Also making a proper "key" to use for the doors.


----------



## Scottdimelow

Nifty idea, nothing changes on the outside very 007.

Make sure there's plenty of room for wood movement lol, you could be locked out of your cabinets until the humidity drops


----------



## Rob Platt

Taper coopered upper, coopered and turned at bottom end mostly from the firewood pile. Painted with cellulose roof repair to give it a well used old cast iron look, then undercoat and gloss. Lit by LED bulb at 240 volt to avoid over heating and melting acrylic glass.


----------



## monkeybiter

Very nice. Must hide from SWMBO !


----------



## DTR

DennisCA":1qtb9n3g said:


> Pull it sideways and the door opens, on the inside is a lock with another neodymium magnet in it.
> Installed 3 of them so far, need at least 3 more. Also making a proper "key" to use for the doors.



Brilliant!


----------



## DTR

Rhossydd":3p73tja3 said:


> A pair of bedside cabinets in English Ash from Westonbirt's wood sales with American Cherry tops and knobs.



Very nice!


----------



## n0legs

DTR":3bwz5udw said:


> Rhossydd":3bwz5udw said:
> 
> 
> 
> A pair of bedside cabinets in English Ash from Westonbirt's wood sales with American Cherry tops and knobs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice!
Click to expand...

 
Totally agree, some lovely colouring and great proportions to the cabinets =D>


----------



## n0legs

Rob Platt":344wrfon said:


> Taper coopered upper, coopered and turned at bottom end mostly from the firewood pile. Painted with cellulose roof repair to give it a well used old cast iron look, then undercoat and gloss. Lit by LED bulb at 240 volt to avoid over heating and melting acrylic glass.




Cracking job, would never have guessed that was wood. Excellent =D>


----------



## n0legs

I did a few workshop things this weekend, just some tidying up and some sorting.
I'm currently stocking up on clamps, I need quite a few extra clamps for a project I have planned later on. With this in mind I decided to go through the offcuts pile and make a few racks to store them on.
So some ply and some door lining offcuts were used to make these. I sited them in an awkward corner and decided while I was at it to paint the wall behind them.
I use a lot of latex and vinyl gloves, so I made up a dispenser for their boxes from some more scrap. I gave it a coat of paint and screwed it to the slave door of the workshop.














That's all for now.


----------



## tobytools

monkeybiter":2yc3yyxi said:


> Very nice. Must hide from SWMBO !



What's. Swmbo

TT


----------



## DTR

tobytools":vuqm5wqu said:


> monkeybiter":vuqm5wqu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. Must hide from SWMBO !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's. Swmbo
> 
> TT
Click to expand...


SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed


----------



## tobytools

DTR":vopsr6t3 said:


> tobytools":vopsr6t3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> monkeybiter":vopsr6t3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. Must hide from SWMBO !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's. Swmbo
> 
> TT
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed
Click to expand...


=D> that's excellent. 
TT


----------



## DennisCA

Only half finished, but the major components are ready. It's gonna be a tilting router lift:


----------



## devonwoody

Interesting, I would like to have something like that to do mouldings for picture framing.

(Any one here at this forum got a moulding plane machine?)


----------



## Doris

Made these as part of a commission for an upcoming valentines meal. Turned then carved from birch.


----------



## markturner

Hi, here is a picture of a media unit and sideboard I just completed for my house. It's Rosewood & cocobolo veneer. I would like to be able to say I did the veneering, but it's a bit beyond me and my set up here, so Shawyers did it for me. I did all the lipping and finishing and everything else however. 










Cheers Mark


----------



## monkeybiter

markturner":215lju4w said:


> Shawyers did it for me. I did all the lipping and finishing and everything else however.



Stunning job too, very nice. Could do to trim that bit of cardboard packing the middle leg though :wink:


----------



## markturner

Thanks, yes, its not quite finished yet, I need to find a permanent solution to raise the centre leg and apply another coat of oil and wax etc. I just grabbed some quick photos on the phone after I got the doors on, will try and get some posher ones when totally finished, also showing the top, which is lovely.

PS, I meant Shawyers did just the veneering, I did everything else, designed, made all the panels & doors, lipped, cut to size, jointed etc


----------



## SteveF

could you lower the other legs?

just a thought
stunning looking piece of furniture
Steve


----------



## n0legs

Mark, the visual impact of that veneer is stunning =D> 
Was the way in which it has been done your choice ?


----------



## monkeybiter

I was just ribbing you, it's a very nice piece of work, much better than I'd manage.


----------



## markturner

No worries, I realised that mate!
We have a 1920's french deco sideboard next to it with sunburst veneered doors, so I wanted to make something similar, but different.....
So yes , I spent much time figuring out the design and choosing the veneers.

cheers, Mark


----------



## gasman

First big thing I have done in my new workshop. Library steps... in sycamore with ebony inlays / trimmings.
The was done by glueing up 2 x 35x70x1500mm pieces, then when dry cut square to 65 x 65mm, then made octagonal, then 16 sides, then 32, then I had a moment of inspiration - due to not having a 5 foot long lathe bed. My lathe is a very heavy old coronet major - so I drilled a 6.5 mm hole in the end of the pole, then screwed a 6mm short bolt with the end cut off into the wall at the same height as the lathe spindle. Then mounted the pole and had it turning on the slowest speed. It was quite stable so I just sanded it - starting with 80 grit and ending up with 600 - it worked very well. The ebony ball I made from some odd pieces of 32x32mm, glued up with CA glue, then turned gently using a cardboard semicircle as a guide. The 6 curved rails were laminated in a former 2 at a time from 6 x 3mm thick strips of sycamore
Here's the lathe setup




And the ball:




And here are the steps virtually done - a couple more coats of hardwaxoil needed




Comments welcome - thanks for looking
Mark


----------



## AndyT

Now that's clever!
And really good planning when you positioned the lathe that distance from the wall!

The steps look good too and the ebony ball looks like you nicked it from a snooker table...


----------



## n0legs

You made a lovely job of those steps Mark =D>


----------



## 8squared

First decent bread board I've made... for the Mrs.


----------



## chillicamper

I pen turned from Olive wood - it smells lovely when it's being turned!





And a combination corkscrew/bottle stop also made from Olive wood









A couple of different Oak pens


----------



## DTR

A pair of sapele boxes for some friends' birthdays. The one on the left is as yet unfinished, the one on the right has had a few coats of danish oil.


----------



## DennisCA

New insert plate for my bandsaw table. I didn't like the round shape as it makes it harder to cut a new insert for the saw, but it came with a round one. So I made a new round insert but with a ledge, then I and put a square cutout in it:





I messed up a bit on my first cut so there's two in the insert but whatever it works fine and a new one is easy to make now.


----------



## Davejo

Hi all,

I'm in to making small things in my miniature workshop.

The last things I made were for my wifes children centre were

After cutting






Before painting






After painting






Complete with wheels


----------



## DennisCA

That is very nice, I hope to be able to make some nice wooden toys for my boys later on too.


----------



## rxh

A pipe of applewood.


----------



## Benchwayze

Nice one. I like the grain on this. Did you cannibalise another pipe for the mouthpiece, or did you make that too?

I haven't smoked for 35 years or more, but i still sometimes hanker after my old pipe. 

Start again? No, I wouldn't be that daft!


----------



## rxh

Benchwayze":3me41ql4 said:


> Nice one. I like the grain on this. Did you cannibalise another pipe for the mouthpiece, or did you make that too?
> 
> I haven't smoked for 35 years or more, but i still sometimes hanker after my old pipe.
> 
> Start again? No, I wouldn't be that daft!


Thanks. Yes, I made the mouthpiece too - I turned it as far as possible then used chisels, files, scrapers and abrasive paper.

I haven't smoked for more than 25 years and I don't intend to start again either  . I was given some applewood full of splits so only suitable for small articles and a pipe was an interesting exercise.


----------



## Owl

DennisCA":13jqedke said:


> New insert plate for my bandsaw table. I didn't like the round shape as it makes it harder to cut a new insert for the saw, but it came with a round one. So I made a new round insert but with a ledge, then I and put a square cutout in it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I messed up a bit on my first cut so there's two in the insert but whatever it works fine and a new one is easy to make now.




Like the thinking behind this


----------



## DennisCA

Thanks, I like the change a lot. Also made a zero clearance insert for the table saw after having some thin strips get sucked down the side:


----------



## DTR

Davejo":maeve4kg said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I'm in to making small things in my miniature workshop.
> 
> The last things I made were for my wifes children centre were



I love the toys, great stuff!


----------



## bamboo

rxh":qyhbrcv1 said:


> A pipe of applewood.




Love it very good


----------



## Silverbirch

Owl":1atz2l59 said:


> DennisCA":1atz2l59 said:
> 
> 
> 
> New insert plate for my bandsaw table. I didn't like the round shape as it makes it harder to cut a new insert for the saw, but it came with a round one. So I made a new round insert but with a ledge, then I and put a square cutout in it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I messed up a bit on my first cut so there's two in the insert but whatever it works fine and a new one is easy to make now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the thinking behind this
Click to expand...


Me too! The simplest ideas are often the best.


----------



## DennisCA

I've lived a clean life for too long, I think a person deserves to have at least one vise.


----------



## monkeybiter

Does the handle on the top of the bench wind the vice in or is that a separate project? :lol: [Or in other words what are you making with that wooden gear?]


----------



## DennisCA

Oh yeah that's for my tilting router lift (bought the plans from woodgears.ca), it actually came loose, I've screwed and unscrewed it too many times, as the plans warned not to do. I should embed a locking nut instead of screwing it directly into the wood to avoid it coming loose again.


----------



## Indie Shed

I finished this today for a friend. His dad is an Amateur Boxing timekeeper and he thought he should have a replacement for the lead bossing stick he's been using.

I made this from Oak from an old spiked post in a barn that I picked up last week. 

First time I made anything like this project, usually lightpulls, dibbers and french rolling pins.


----------



## Dillydally

A while ago since I last made something, very novice! Random rough chair from carcass timber.. Upholstered bits box for the mrs
Very basic skills compared to some of the work I've looked through. Amazing pieces.


----------



## Woodmonkey

Natural edge beech worktops.


----------



## Mr T

Lovely work, what is the finish? That wood doesn't look beechy to me, more grain than I would expect and you don't usually get such a difference between sap and heart wood.

Units look good.

Chris


----------



## SteveF

Cigar Box Guitar








Steve


----------



## Woodmonkey

Thanks Chris, I just did the tops, think the units were b and poo! I used osmo oil, it's freshly applied in the pics which is why they look a bit shiney. The beech is from a tree that the client (tree surgeon) felled himself and had planked so it has a lot more character than your standard commercially grown stuff.


----------



## Racers

Not the last thing I made but a couple of things I made a while ago, taken as part of my photo a day for a year project.



7th February by maddpete, on Flickr

Pete


----------



## wellywood

Very nice Pete. What wood is that?
(You don't intend to eat that pine cone I hope)


----------



## John15

Very attractive Pete. I like the finish very much - is it with a gouge?

John


----------



## Racers

Thanks chaps. 

The bowl is sycamore and the spoon is cherry, finished with a sharp gouge, there is a weeks worth of roughage in a pinecone ;-)

Pete


----------



## Benchwayze

Racers":xqtsycb8 said:


> Thanks chaps.
> 
> The bowl is sycamore and the spoon is cherry, finished with a sharp gouge, there is a weeks worth of roughage in a pinecone ;-)
> 
> Pete



So that's why squirrels are so 'regular'! :mrgreen: 

I have some Jelutong lying about the shop; somewhere. I ought to try one of these 'homespun' nut-bowls, as I eat my share of nuts! 

Cheers
john


----------



## Racers

I cut the sycamore tree down and carved the bowl while it was green slowly letting it dry as I carved it out. 
I put it in a thick paper bag with the chips to slow the drying out. 

Pete


----------



## mseries

I made these, only mortices and tenons right ? They are part of a small stand I am making for my drill press.





I am pleased with it for a couple of reasons, the main legs are from a plank I found while my house was being completed 20 years ago, it's been in the rafters of my garage ever since. It was rough sawn and filthy, it didn't look like much. I retrieved it, brushed off 20 years of dust, pulled out some nails. I cut it into four pieces each about 4" x 2". It planed up quite nicely, I don't have much time to spend on this, and for a workshop table I wasn't too precious with things. I just needed it to be clean and workable. The tenoned parts are scrap left over from one of the gates I made las year.


The M&Ts are pleasing because they are the first I've done with the M&T router template/jig I am building





Results are encouraging so I am happy enough to proceed with the M&T jig


----------



## Silverbirch

Looking good. Who needs a Domino!


----------



## n0legs

Racers":rnuvovee said:


> Not the last thing I made but a couple of things I made a while ago, taken as part of my photo a day for a year project.
> 
> 
> 
> 7th February by maddpete, on Flickr
> 
> Pete



That's real nice, I like that a lot =D> 



mseries":rnuvovee said:


> I made these, only mortices and tenons right ? They are part of a small stand I am making for my drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> The M&Ts are pleasing because they are the first I've done with the M&T router template/jig I am building



Looking good =D> 
Is the jig variable like the 'dnerT' one ?


----------



## mouppe

Windsor barstool. Distressed milk paint finish.


----------



## monkeybiter

That's a nice piece of work [shame about the finish...IMHO]


----------



## mseries

n0legs":1x3b2oan said:


> Looking good =D>
> Is the jig variable like the 'dnerT' one ?


Yes it is, it works pretty much the same way. The crescent shaped transparent 'ends' slide in and out. Width is static but cutter/guide bush combinations allow different thickness tenons. it works, not perfectly, I'll need to tweak it a bit but sufficiently to keep me thinking about it.


----------



## xy mosian

mouppe":52kbcrmt said:


> Windsor barstool. Distressed milk paint finish.


I rather like the shape of that. As above, monkeybiter, the colour is not to my taste but I could see it working in some locations.
How did you shape the seat?
xy


----------



## DennisCA

Finally assembled my tilting router lift:











Next step is a timber support frame now that I know where the router lift goes, to beef up the top. Then drawers and compartments and a built in switch.

Even more lumber storage shelving in my garage, it continues off picture to the right even, I've now managed to put all lumber up from the roof. I think I'll make two more rows behind the table saw, it's a dead space that is mostly wasted as is. You can also see where my newer pipe rack design (courtesy of jay bates) meets the wooden design (by matthias wandel).


----------



## mouppe

Uh-oh looks like unanimous thumbs-down to the finish so far! I can always sand the seat down and re-paint it, and may do so. I wanted to go for a distressed look because the chair will probably get a lot of wear and tear in the workshop. Over time, the two colours should blend better. 

I have some work-in-progress photos to show how I carved the seat. First, I drew a contour map on the seat and routed out various depths using a router sled. Then, I used a #7 gouge to do most of the work, and finally sanded it smooth (not a lot of sanding was necessary). The front edges were shaped with a drawknife and spokeshave. The seat carving went very quickly although I would have used an adze if I had had one. I've done it that way before and it's a lot of fun.


----------



## devonwoody

Some very good projects being posted these days.


----------



## Scottdimelow

I love that milk paint finish. Not everyone want plain wood!

Is it a couple of different colours used?


----------



## xy mosian

mouppe":bsrwzzfc said:


> Uh-oh looks like unanimous thumbs-down to the finish so far! I can always sand the seat down and re-paint it, and may do so. I wanted to go for a distressed look because the chair will probably get a lot of wear and tear in the workshop. Over time, the two colours should blend better.
> 
> I have some work-in-progress photos to show how I carved the seat. First, I drew a contour map on the seat and routed out various depths using a router sled. Then, I used a #7 gouge to do most of the work, and finally sanded it smooth (not a lot of sanding was necessary). The front edges were shaped with a drawknife and spokeshave. The seat carving went very quickly although I would have used an adze if I had had one. I've done it that way before and it's a lot of fun.


Thanks for posting that mouppe. It is interesting to see different working methods. 
xy
p.s. Don't sand down the chair, live with it. In use, as wear patterns develop, it will look very different.
xy


----------



## DennisCA

I sorta like it for a workshop chair. With some wear and splashes of paint it'll look much nicer


----------



## mouppe

Dimmaz88":1lzegdwi said:


> I love that milk paint finish. Not everyone want plain wood!
> 
> Is it a couple of different colours used?




Thanks. Yes, a base colour of sky Blue and a top coat of a dark blue, a wash coat of shellac in between to keep the colours separate, and then hand sanded.

I had to paint it because the chair is made from two different woods, and the legs in particular- being from ash- just ended up looking dirty when shoes were resting on the stretchers. The paint hides the dirt and unifies the different woods.


----------



## n0legs

As XY said earlier, don't sand it back. I think it looks great, really like the colour.
The proportions look good, is it comfortable ?


----------



## mouppe

Thanks! Yes it's really comfortable. I wanted to make a stool with a high arm rail that would support me when sharpening saws etc.


----------



## Owl

mouppe":1wytc3hq said:


> Windsor barstool. Distressed milk paint finish.



I really like the chair =D> but not the paint finish  

As has been said, a few paint splashes should improve the look of it over time.


----------



## markturner

Hi, been having a little bit of workshop action lately and managed to make this bookcase in a couple of days this week. Its in solid walnut, with ply veneered shelves, no fancy joinery as I was in a hurry, so the good old domino was in action, but nonetheless, a satisfying project and one of the final pieces for our new kitchen. I just need to complete the extractor canopy and its done. 

The finish is my favourite, festool surfix one step and some wax. I was quite chuffed, as I saw this in a posh furniture shop, with a price ticket of over a grand on it, and thought " I could make that really easily"...so I did! 

















Cheers, Mark


----------



## John15

Hi Mark,
A very attractive bookcase. I really like the curves and open ends.
John


----------



## devonwoody

A nice piece of furniture and looks good. Hope it works out positioned in the kitchen with books.


----------



## markturner

Thanks for the kind words fellas, rgds mark


----------



## KevM

Mark,
I really like the bookcase, it's got a nice touch of the Danish modern to it.


----------



## Racers

Very nice bookcase.

Pete


----------



## n0legs

Like the bookcase =D> 
P.S.
I love your floor


----------



## mouppe

My grandma is 99 years old in a few weeks and still working as a baker (although everything she makes she donates to charity) so I made her this spoon from a piece of ash from my firewood pile. It's my first spoon but it really was great fun and only took a couple of hours. I think I've been bitten by the spoon-carving bug! 

Finish is walnut oil.


----------



## Owl

Hope your grandma has a great birthday Mouppe


----------



## Owl

Apologies for including this among such great works. My G/granddaughter wanted a 'special box' to keep some of her treasures in so I came up with this. It works with rare earth magnets, one in the door and one in the right end to lock it. I'm certainly no joiner but I like to try and make things with wood for the kids.


----------



## PeterBassett

Ha, like that.


----------



## 8squared

With any new to me wood I like to make a candle holder to see how it cuts and finished.

Here is maple and walnut.

No thought went into design but I quite like how it turned out... So I made some more.


----------



## rwe2156




----------



## Doris

I'm building one of them at the moment. Yours looks much better though.


----------



## Mr T

Here's a chair I have just finished. It's based on a chair by Vidar Malmsten, a mate of James Krenov's. It's in ash with a Danish cord seat and has a soap finish. Malmsten was a bit uncompromising in his design so construction was tricky with many compound angles and some scribed shoulders. The chair gives excellent back support and is very comfortable.

The soap finish gives a very natural feel to the wood, almost like there is no finish there. It remains to be seen how it will last. This is the first time I have used Danish cord seating, it took me about two days to do with steep learning curve, but seems to have turned out well.

The chair is a prototype for a chair making course I am developing. I thought that most chair making courses are for turned chairs a jointed chair allows more grace and is more of a challenge.

I am considering posting a WIP thread on the construction.

Chris


----------



## xy mosian

That is a very elegant chair. A real challenge for a chair making course I would think.
Now 'Soap' finish is new to me is it just Carbolic well rubbed in? Heh Heh.
xy


----------



## Mr T

Hi XY



> Now 'Soap' finish is new to me is it just Carbolic well rubbed in? Heh Heh.



No not carbolic, Boots soap flakes mixed with hot water to give a paste then rubbed on and buffed off. Call in sometime if you want to check it out.

Chris


----------



## Woodchips2

That looks a lovely chair Mr T, well done =D> 

Regards Keith


----------



## xy mosian

Mr T":3etp4wb0 said:


> Hi XY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now 'Soap' finish is new to me is it just Carbolic well rubbed in? Heh Heh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No not carbolic, Boots soap flakes mixed with hot water to give a paste then rubbed on and buffed off. Call in sometime if you want to check it out.
> 
> Chris
Click to expand...


And there was I thinking I was joking. Thank you for the offer of a 'hands on'.
xy


----------



## Paul Chapman

That's a cracking chair, Chris. Very elegant.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## Baldhead

Maple and walnut jewelry box for my granddaughter, finished with two coats of celulose sanding sealer, denibbed between coats, then three coats of Briwax clear wax, apologies for the pictures, they were taken with my old iPhone.

Baldhead


----------



## richarddownunder

Made my first guitar. Tasmanian blackwood and spruce. Sounds good but I'd like to eliminate some of the little mistakes next time!


----------



## wellywood

Great job Richard. Hope it sounds as good as it looks  
Can't make out from the photo, but is the back flat or bellied?


----------



## richarddownunder

wellywood":39nmbxt4 said:


> Great job Richard. Hope it sounds as good as it looks
> Can't make out from the photo, but is the back flat or bellied?


Thanks. Yes, its not the best photo. The back is bellied (or domed) but the sundboard is flat. There was some concern with doing this but since our RH is fairly stable in these parts it should be OK I'm told. Its stays in tune very well.


----------



## WoodMangler

Tulipwood, finished with linseed oil, about 6-1/2" diameter :


----------



## wellywood

richarddownunder":26h7pqdt said:


> Thanks. Yes, its not the best photo. The back is bellied (or domed) but the sundboard is flat. There was some concern with doing this but since our RH is fairly stable in these parts it should be OK I'm told. Its stays in tune very well.



What's the RH like today after yesterday's downpour? :lol:


----------



## Woodmonkey

Beautiful chair Chris, would love to see a Wip. Might be interested in the chair making course too.


----------



## richarddownunder

wellywood":31jt92vm said:


> richarddownunder":31jt92vm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Yes, its not the best photo. The back is bellied (or domed) but the sundboard is flat. There was some concern with doing this but since our RH is fairly stable in these parts it should be OK I'm told. Its stays in tune very well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's the RH like today after yesterday's downpour? :lol:
Click to expand...

55% according to my meter...indoors. Rather wetter outside though!! Palmy is doing a community cancer fundraising 'relay for life' overnight - marching around a grass track in the rain and thunder. It'll be a mud track by now - just heading down there to retrieve my daughter. oops, slightly off topic!


----------



## richarddownunder

wellywood":6ynvzzt6 said:


> richarddownunder":6ynvzzt6 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Yes, its not the best photo. The back is bellied (or domed) but the sundboard is flat. There was some concern with doing this but since our RH is fairly stable in these parts it should be OK I'm told. Its stays in tune very well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's the RH like today after yesterday's downpour? :lol:
Click to expand...

55% according to my meter...indoors. Rather wetter outside though!! Palmy is doing a community cancer fundraising 'relay for life' overnight - marching around a grass track in the rain and thunder. It'll be a mud track by now - just heading down there to retrieve my daughter. oops, slightly off topic!


----------



## JanetsBears

I suppose that now I've found this thread I should add to it...

...but it seems I don't have permission


----------



## JanetsBears

...but now I seem to have posted enough times to be given the appropriate permissions so here goes...

SWMBO requested these huge oak doors so I made them for her today. Don't know if they qualify for inclusion here as they were made using a mini CNC machine. The one on the left has had a single coat of finishing oil and the one on the right is as it came off the machine. They're about 6cm x 4cm and are apparently to allow fairies to come and go from a glass jar :|






The previous thing I made was this ribbon holder for SWMBO's craft room, but this was also made on the CNC machine. It's currently unfinished - she intends painting it:










The thing I made before was also the result of a request from SWMBO but there wasn't a CNC machine in sight when I made it. She wanted a simple table to replace an old Tri-ang school desk for our granddaughter who is only 20 months old and can't understand why her crayons keep rolling off the sloping desk! Specification was "a very simple table with square legs and a flat top that I can paint". After checking with the boss, I softened the corners for when the little one bumps her head on them. She's started painting it tonight.






Chris


----------



## devonwoody

CNC equipment is no problem here we are very board minded.

Some of us most probably have no idea what a cnc machine is and can do so give us some wip sometime and bring us oldies into the 21st century if you like.


----------



## Benchwayze

JanetsBears":1t0snfob said:


> The thing I made before was also the result of a request from SWMBO but there wasn't a CNC machine in sight when I made it. She wanted a simple table to replace an old Tri-ang school desk for our granddaughter who is only 20 months old and can't understand why her crayons keep rolling off the sloping desk! Specification was "a very simple table with square legs and a flat top that I can paint". After checking with the boss, I softened the corners for when the little one bumps her head on them. She's started painting it tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chris



That's better than the pine table I made for informal dining from the sofa!

John


----------



## JanetsBears

devonwoody":194kklal said:


> CNC equipment is no problem here we are very board minded.
> 
> Some of us most probably have no idea what a cnc machine is and can do so give us some wip sometime and bring us oldies into the 21st century if you like.



As I approach retirement at a rapid pace, I consider myself one of "us oldies" so I'm dragging myself into modern times 

I'm not sure how interesting CNC based wip would be. "Here's a picture of a board before I turn the CNC machine on...this is me making a cup of tea while the CNC machine is busy...this is what the CNC machine cut while I was drinking my tea...tada! Here it is, finished!"

My stepdaughter saw the table and has asked if I could make her one too, with a couple of small chairs. Maybe I should personalise the chairs in some way using the CNC machine and include wip pictures for the whole thing.

Chris


----------



## Benchwayze

Ah Chris.. 
The crayons roll of the desk slope because there isn't a stop ledge across the bottom? :lol: :lol: :lol: 
Sorry. Couldn't resist! 

Cheers

John


----------



## JanetsBears

Benchwayze":3k6c5cjl said:


> Ah Chris..
> The crayons roll of the desk slope because there isn't a stop ledge across the bottom? :lol: :lol: :lol:
> Sorry. Couldn't resist!
> 
> Cheers
> 
> John


Personally, I believe the issue not to be a fault with the desk design, but rather a problem with the way a 20 month old girl can put down crayons with such force that they can roll uphill!

Chris


----------



## IHc1vtr+

Bolt action bullet pen, chinese plum and teak with copper inserts


----------



## Benchwayze

JanetsBears":61cbvy3t said:


> Benchwayze":61cbvy3t said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ah Chris..
> The crayons roll of the desk slope because there isn't a stop ledge across the bottom? :lol: :lol: :lol:
> Sorry. Couldn't resist!
> 
> Cheers
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I believe the issue not to be a fault with the desk design, but rather a problem with the way a 20 month old girl can put down crayons with such force that they can roll uphill!
> 
> Chris
Click to expand...

If my granddaughter is anything to go by, two-year old children can put crayons down with enough force to cause a three square metres fall-out zone! :lol:


----------



## mseries

Not technically the last thing I made but today I renovated my box joint jig and used it to cut some box joints for my refurb of my wife's office project.





I made the jig ages ago and it wasn't quite right due to the slider in my mitre track being sloppy. I fettled that and made a new face/tooth plate for 1/2" fingers adding a Maskery style adjuster - which wasn't needed !! My vacuum hose clamp affair is a prototype but I quite like it, sucks up most of the dust

Here's my first test cut




cutter not quite high enough but a nice fit with space for glue :wink:


----------



## vibraphone

First post, may as well be this 
French oak, 32mm thick shelves with 10 cupboards beneath, finished in tung oil.
Waiting on handles to arrive.


----------



## DTR

vibraphone":qfiah9x3 said:


> First post, may as well be this
> French oak, 32mm thick shelves with 10 cupboards beneath, finished in tung oil.
> Waiting on handles to arrive.



Wow


----------



## turnamere

Coffe table inspired by the Roubo Workbench:








The wood is douglas fir offcuts left over from constructing the roof trusses and purlins from our extension build

The top is made with 2 pieces of 9"x4", I used a plywood spline in a routed groove to aid alignment, jointed the edges carefully and glued together. The legs are 4"x6". The timber had been kicking aroung my garage and generally getting in he way whilst I waited for a flash of inspiration; which came from Chris Schwarz's excellent workbench books. Initiall flattening and cleaning up of the timber was done using my router with a flat bottom Wealdon bit and a home made jig. The remainder was hand tools. I finished with 3 coats of Osmol Polyx satin and 3 further applications of beeswax.

SWMBO is delighted with the end result


----------



## cgarry

turnamere":2sk217zq said:


> Coffe table inspired by the Roubo Workbench:
> 
> 
> The wood is douglas fir offcuts left over from constructing the roof trusses and purlins from our extension build
> 
> The top is made with 2 pieces of 9"x4", I used a plywood spline in a routed groove to aid alignment, jointed the edges carefully and glued together. The legs are 4"x6". The timber had been kicking aroung my garage and generally getting in he way whilst I waited for a flash of inspiration; which came from Chris Schwarz's excellent workbench books. Initiall flattening and cleaning up of the timber was done using my router with a flat bottom Wealdon bit and a home made jig. The remainder was hand tools. I finished with 3 coats of Osmol Polyx satin and 3 further applications of beeswax.
> 
> SWMBO is delighted with the end result



I love that! I have been kicking around ideas for my own coffee table build hoping inspiration would strike. However, I think I shall go with something similar to yours.

Cheers,
Chris


----------



## woodenstx

turnamere":1pjfx7da said:


> Coffe table inspired by the Roubo Workbench:
> 
> The wood is douglas fir offcuts left over from constructing the roof trusses and purlins from our extension build
> 
> The top is made with 2 pieces of 9"x4", I used a plywood spline in a routed groove to aid alignment, jointed the edges carefully and glued together. The legs are 4"x6". The timber had been kicking aroung my garage and generally getting in he way whilst I waited for a flash of inspiration; which came from Chris Schwarz's excellent workbench books. Initiall flattening and cleaning up of the timber was done using my router with a flat bottom Wealdon bit and a home made jig. The remainder was hand tools. I finished with 3 coats of Osmol Polyx satin and 3 further applications of beeswax.
> 
> SWMBO is delighted with the end result




A sublime bit of work there!
that looks familiar from a Clans thread


----------



## John15

Vibraphone,

I like your bookcase style with cupboards below. Also what's good is a space for the TV.

John


----------



## turnamere

woodenstuart":np5acj2b said:


> [A sublime bit of work there!
> that looks familiar from a Clans thread



Hi Stuart, 

small world, any further with your finish dilema? Looking forward to seeing the result once your post count is up.


----------



## mouppe

Been meaning to make this for about ten years. Finally got round to it. Only took 3 hours- why did I wait so long?!!! It's on little wheels and has about 35 clamps on it so far and room for plenty more.


----------



## mouppe

I added leather to my vice a long time ago but over time I realized it was too thin and didn't really provide any benefit. A couple of days ago I relined it with tooling leather which is about 3mm thick. This has the advantage of being able to compress a little and thus provide better grip, especially if your jaws do not close perfectly parallel. It also prevents marking the wood more easily as it has some give. 

I used yellow glue to attach it and bevelled the edges. Edge bevelling reduces the chance of snagging the leather which can pull it away from the jaw over time. 

Benchcrafted supply suede for their Moxon vices but I think it is also too thin.


----------



## John15

Where did you get the leather from Mouppe?

John


----------



## mouppe

John15":41l42nwi said:


> Where did you get the leather from Mouppe?
> 
> John



From a lady that makes dog collars! Hence the bright colours.


----------



## John15

Ah, I don't know any ladies that make dog collars. Anyone know of a leather supplier? Lots on ebay but it's too thin.

John


----------



## mouppe

Why don't you glue two pieces together?


----------



## RogerP

John15":2znxdpmb said:


> Ah, I don't know any ladies that make dog collars. Anyone know of a leather supplier? Lots on ebay but it's too thin.
> 
> John


Have you checked this seller's items?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Leathercr...c7ea1e&var=&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&_ssn=jondo1


----------



## John15

Thanks Roger. I actually tried again putting 'thick' leather in the search box and found some.

John


----------



## woodenstx

First and last pair of things I've made 
















And the bench, many 12mm dowels to hold that


----------



## Doris

A cake stand I carved recently from softwood then painted. So big someone banged their noggin on it.


----------



## blackrodd

After a while, I did manage to tear my gaze from the scrummy cake display and look at the stand.
And I'm glad that I did, excellent job, You certainly come up with some clever designs, And I do like the eeb,
on the base.
What paint finish was this? looks almost glossy.
Regards Rodders


----------



## John15

I'll take the cake, if that's OK.

John


----------



## JanetsBears

There was a stand? I didn't notice anything other than cake!


----------



## Woodchips2

mouppe":37yn2raf said:


> Been meaning to make this for about ten years. Finally got round to it. Only took 3 hours- why did I wait so long?!!! It's on little wheels and has about 35 clamps on it so far and room for plenty more.
> 
> ]


That's a good idea mouppe and being mobile will save a lot of time cramping up a big piece =D> 

Regards Keith


----------



## Doris

blackrodd":w7ah88wn said:


> After a while, I did manage to tear my gaze from the scrummy cake display and look at the stand.
> And I'm glad that I did, excellent job, You certainly come up with some clever designs, And I do like the eeb,
> on the base.
> What paint finish was this? looks almost glossy.
> Regards Rodders



Thanks. The bee on the base is my makers mark. I would have put it underneath but as it has a felt base had to put it on the top. The finish is a coat of white paint and then a coat of clear varnish. This tearoom sells a lot of chocolate fudge cake which gets everywhere and so was told to make the stand "wipeable"


John15":w7ah88wn said:


> I'll take the cake, if that's OK.
> 
> John


Lol


JanetsBears":w7ah88wn said:


> There was a stand? I didn't notice anything other than cake!


I take that as a compliment. It is very good cake I should add.


----------



## JanetsBears

Doris":1myc36s8 said:


> I take that as a compliment. It is very good cake I should add.


So you should! On examining the photo more closely, the stand looks pretty impressive - I could happily make the base and two cake supports but it would probably take weeks of roaming through woodland to find suitable pieces to join the bits together  

Chris


----------



## Woodmonkey

Olive ash slice which will be used as an alcove shelf. My mate cut this from a log freehand with a chainsaw. I just planed and sanded it, finished with Rustin's plastic coating


----------



## Doris

JanetsBears":ueook6xz said:


> Doris":ueook6xz said:
> 
> 
> 
> I take that as a compliment. It is very good cake I should add.
> 
> 
> 
> So you should! On examining the photo more closely, the stand looks pretty impressive - I could happily make the base and two cake supports but it would probably take weeks of roaming through woodland to find suitable pieces to join the bits together
> 
> Chris
Click to expand...


Actually it's all made from kilm dried timber. 

https://gracesilverwood.wordpress.com/c ... -carvings/


----------



## mseries

Doris":2nfs3w2p said:


> https://gracesilverwood.wordpress.com/c ... -carvings/



I really liked reading your blog. I particularly liked the tulips you carved. Many years ago I bought some carved tulips and a handmade vase for the woman who became my wife and she was thrilled with them. She will be even more thrilled if I make some more for her and you've just inspired me to do so. Thanks. (I just need to find the time !)


----------



## Cordy

Made this bird table from recycled timber and Formica; my neighbour is revamping his kitchen
Roof Formica, table base is slate from Wales


----------



## monkeybiter

Rather attractive actually! I like the finial.


----------



## Doris

mseries":3gjxq4uv said:


> Doris":3gjxq4uv said:
> 
> 
> 
> https://gracesilverwood.wordpress.com/c ... -carvings/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really liked reading your blog. I particularly liked the tulips you carved. Many years ago I bought some carved tulips and a handmade vase for the woman who became my wife and she was thrilled with them. She will be even more thrilled if I make some more for her and you've just inspired me to do so. Thanks. (I just need to find the time !)
Click to expand...


Its stories like that that make my work worthwhile. Thank you for sharing.


----------



## Russ59

Not just the last thing I made but the first!!
Its the first bit of woodwork I have done since leaving school in 1975. I have had some very good advice from this forum on questions I have asked on the construction.
SWMBO has been asking for a blanket box for a couple of years now, so I took the plunge and came up with this. My mother is making a cotton liner which I will staple inside.


----------



## gregmcateer

Very smart, sir!


----------



## Racers

One of a pair of oak stools, hand hollowed and the legs rounded by hand.
I had to make a scorp and tapered ream and rounder for the legs, the wedges are bog oak.



21st March by maddpete, on Flickr

Pete


----------



## KevM

I like the stool Pete, very nice.


----------



## Doris

How did you make your scorp?


----------



## rs6mra

richarnold":3b8lq3q6 said:


> The last thing I made on my own was a Computer desk in air dried olive ash from MAC timbers with bog oak handles and cock beading. It was a great piece to make, but I probably got the price completely wrong and hardly made minimum wage doing it. I don't really care though as you don't get commissions like this every day



That is truly awesome and i hope i can one day make one like that
Can i be rude and ask how much that set you back in materials and how many hours did that take?


----------



## Racers

Doris":r1y4ex9w said:


> How did you make your scorp?




I will post a picture once I have taken it.

Pete


----------



## Steve Maskery

That's a really nice stool, Pete.
Did you say you have made a pair? How many bottoms have you got? I need a workshop stool.....
S


----------



## mouppe

Love the stool. Looks very comfortable.


----------



## Racers

Sorry Steve, I need both of them. 

Pete


----------



## Racers

Scorp photos for Doris









Its just a piece of O1 with a bevel and holes, bent cold and hardened and tempered, then screwed to a lump of shaped oak.
Next time I would leave the ends by the holes flat so it beds easer.

Its crude but works very well, you can really hog off some wood across the grain and get a nice finish with the grain.

Pete


----------



## Steve Maskery

Dear Two-Bum Pete
You do make some nice tools.
Regards
One-bum Steve.


----------



## WoodMangler

Nutmeg grinder for my daughter, who made the mistake of admiring the one I made for my wife


----------



## Robinthree

My very first attempt at Stair baulisters


----------



## Doris

They are really nice. I like the style a lot.

What wood did you use for the handrails?


----------



## Robinthree

Thanks a lot, I used 4 x 4 pine for the rails 
My style is the chunky country look , the issues I had was the integrated uprights wernt level , well the bottom one was and the middles were out so when I put in the spindles I had to eye ball it as best I could because having them level made them look out, it took a bit longer than expected, a 12ft landing and 12 ft staircase


----------



## tobytools

Racers":mh2i9lgj said:


> Scorp photos for Doris
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its just a piece of O1 with a bevel and holes, bent cold and hardened and tempered, then screwed to a lump of shaped oak.
> Next time I would leave the ends by the holes flat so it beds easer.
> 
> Its crude but works very well, you can really hog off some wood across the grain and get a nice finish with the grain.
> 
> Pete



nice that pete, 
would it be called a travisher? 
TT


----------



## Racers

I think you are right TT.

Pete


----------



## GLFaria

Doris":14q80pr9 said:


> JanetsBears":14q80pr9 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doris":14q80pr9 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I take that as a compliment. It is very good cake I should add.
> 
> 
> 
> So you should! On examining the photo more closely, the stand looks pretty impressive - I could happily make the base and two cake supports but it would probably take weeks of roaming through woodland to find suitable pieces to join the bits together
> 
> Chris
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Actually it's all made from kilm dried timber.
> 
> https://gracesilverwood.wordpress.com/c ... -carvings/
Click to expand...


Just took a look at your blog. Beautiful pieces. It certainly takes an artist's eye (which I must state I unfortunately don't have) to see a tree where there are just some pieces of wood, or a nice bench "inside" a tree trunk. I'll be sure to go on visiting

G.


----------



## Doris

GLFaria":3eea4vxj said:


> Just took a look at your blog. Beautiful pieces. It certainly takes an artist's eye (which I must state I unfortunately don't have) to see a tree where there are just some pieces of wood, or a nice bench "inside" a tree trunk. I'll be sure to go on visiting
> 
> G.


Thank you. Glad you enjoy seeing my work. It means a lot.


----------



## custard

GLFaria":23k1relo said:


> Just took a look at your blog. Beautiful pieces.



+1

Those little birds you carved are absolutely superb. Well done!


----------



## Doris

Thank you


----------



## RogerM

Just made this.






No, it's not a commode :lol: #-o It's a full scale mock-up






... for this.


----------



## Beau

"Post a photo of the last thing you made" Think it was this unless making sawdust and noise counts.


----------



## monkeybiter

Nice mitred joints, how were they made/reinforced?


----------



## Doris

Noah's Ark





Without the animals





Some of the animals I've made so far





With them on board


----------



## xy mosian

Blimey that's impressive!
xy


----------



## RogerM

Reminds me of the explanation as to why Noah didn't do any fishing. He only had 2 worms! #-o


----------



## n0legs

Doris":3r10fr1r said:


> Noah's Ark



Love it, very cool


----------



## lmhart

ASDA Storage Box Rack


----------



## mouppe

A couple of months after I posted a blue Windsor stool here, I decided I didn't like it so I repainted it with a couple of coats of Windsor green. Looks much better now I think but the old blue colour pokes through here and there which is nice.


----------



## Racers

I think you need to work on your shadow puppets, the dog bottom left on the second picture needs ears.

 

Pete

Nice stool BTW


----------



## mouppe

Like this...[DOG FACE]

(It is a dog face when using tapatalk!!!)


----------



## Owl

Much better looking now Mouppe =D>


----------



## mouppe

Here's my adaptation of an Alan Peters table. Quartersawn white oak. Dye, shellac and oil finish.


----------



## John15

Very attractive mouppe


----------



## JonnyD

A gate 





Sapele 

Cheers 

Jon


----------



## n0legs

mouppe":1twqh8fi said:


> Here's my adaptation of an Alan Peters table. Quartersawn white oak. Dye, shellac and oil finish.



Outstanding =D> 
Cool, classy, elegant.


----------



## n0legs

JonnyD":3kn2htfn said:


> A gate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sapele
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Jon



Wow!! What a gate =D> 
Please post a pic when it's fitted.


----------



## RogerM

JonnyD":3nwsi0pe said:


> A gate
> 
> 
> Sapele
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Jon



Now that's what I call a nice gate. What's the finish please?


----------



## xy mosian

mouppe":3hz7gvxy said:


> A couple of months after I posted a blue Windsor stool here, I decided I didn't like it so I repainted it with a couple of coats of Windsor green. Looks much better now I think but the old blue colour pokes through here and there which is nice.



I must say I prefer the Green. The scrolls to the ends of the arms are particularly impressive.
xy


----------



## xy mosian

Both the Table and Gate show just what can be done. Both impressive.
xy


----------



## NOTTNICK

Oak studio rack units.


----------



## Mrwilson

Is that re-claimed oak you've used for those?

Shug


----------



## NOTTNICK

No, I got some machined American Oak. 
(I didn't own a planer when I made them last year).
Sorry - not quite last thing I made, but I've not posted piccies on here before and I'm rather proud of them.


----------



## devonwoody

NOTTNICK":3hwazyyt said:


> No, I got some machined American Oak.
> (I didn't own a planer when I made them last year).
> Sorry - not quite last thing I made, but I've not posted piccies on here before and I'm rather proud of them.



agree something to be proud of. Keyboard and music, what are your interests?


----------



## HexusOdy

RogerM":2eqgiw1k said:


> JonnyD":2eqgiw1k said:
> 
> 
> 
> A gate
> 
> 
> Sapele
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Jon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that's what I call a nice gate. What's the finish please?
Click to expand...


I'd like to know how they are finished too please


----------



## Froggy

The wood is nice, the design is nice, but the quality of the workmanship is what makes it stand out. Well done!


----------



## custard

The gate looks to be well constructed, but if I was being picky I'd say the layout of the timbers could have been better thought through. The lower panel is constructed from 16 components, 13 of them look to be quarter sawn with a "stripey" grain pattern, and three are flat sawn with a "cathedral" grain pattern. All the boards on the left are quarter sawn and the right hand side has all of the flat sawn components. I'd have preferred it if the panel had all been made from quarter sawn stock or, if the wastage allowance wouldn't permit, then the flat sawn boards had been balanced from left to right.

I appreciate many might say this is over fussy, but the whole point of individual craftsmanship is to get these kind of details right, as opposed to the commercial alternative where boards are just thrown together in whatever order they emerge from the four sided planer. And I see you've taken care elsewhere in the gate to use quarter sawn for the stiles and flat sawn for the rails, which gives the gate a very harmonious look.


----------



## veneerman

you did say last thing ;-)


----------



## veneerman

HexusOdy":18buwnzq said:


> RogerM":18buwnzq said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JonnyD":18buwnzq said:
> 
> 
> 
> A gate
> 
> 
> Sapele
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Jon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that's what I call a nice gate. What's the finish please?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I'd like to know how they are finished too please
Click to expand...


that is very very nice !


----------



## ColeyS1

left over iroko handrail made into plant pots




the extreme heat this week sure has caused a few splits an shakes, I'll leave them to weather naturally.




a laundry basket skip




had to buy the lorry for £1.50 when I saw it in the charity shop


----------



## veneerman

ColeyS1":lz7o0krz said:


> left over iroko handrail made into plant pots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the extreme heat this week sure has caused a few splits an shakes, I'll leave them to weather naturally.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a laundry basket skip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> had to buy the lorry for £1.50 when I saw it in the charity shop



very nice work indeed ! ;-)


----------



## NOTTNICK

devonwoody":ipvuhgez said:


> NOTTNICK":ipvuhgez said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, I got some machined American Oak.
> (I didn't own a planer when I made them last year).
> Sorry - not quite last thing I made, but I've not posted piccies on here before and I'm rather proud of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> agree something to be proud of. Keyboard and music, what are your interests?
Click to expand...


Made for my son, a songwriter, artist, producer.


----------



## ColeyS1

veneerman":39p37mip said:


> ColeyS1":39p37mip said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> left over iroko handrail made into plant pots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the extreme heat this week sure has caused a few splits an shakes, I'll leave them to weather naturally.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a laundry basket skip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> had to buy the lorry for £1.50 when I saw it in the charity shop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very nice work indeed ! ;-)
Click to expand...

thanks veneerman, i enjoyed making them


----------



## custard

Coley, the chamfer that you've put around the rim of the plant pots is a clever touch that works on so many levels, it helps shed rain, it lightens the look, and it emphasises the "petal" type arrangement of the rim that's of course dead right for the application. Ingenious and original use of scrap, well designed, well crafted...nice job!


----------



## DennisCA

Made a wooden handle for my bevel gauge:


----------



## Cordy

Cheese-board made from wood scrounged out of neighbour's skip
Mouse inlay Mahogany, outer Pine
Chance to try out my new Metabo random orb disc sander; excellent !


----------



## DennisCA

I made a simple block for my bandsaw, it lifted my lower blade guides up from their low, low position into a much better one, made a difference in blade guiding I felt. This was mk.1, there's going to be a better version, the block was just something I had handy but really the grain orientation could be the other way, and a piece without pith would have been better, also a thrust bearing, these guides really primitive. I wonder when only side guides where normal on bandsaws, when did thrust bearings on both top and bottom become the norm?


----------



## n0legs

Fire surround for the mother in-law.
MDF, mitred box construction.
Spray painted in a custom colour matt 2k.
It's all in separate pieces for transportation and to be fixed together when we get there.


----------



## skronk

Nice fireplace n0legs.


----------



## n0legs

skronk":2a7lja3a said:


> Nice fireplace n0legs.



Thank you  
I hope the mother in law likes it, she ain't seen it yet 8-[


----------



## skronk

n0legs":30xd6552 said:


> skronk":30xd6552 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fireplace n0legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you
> I hope the mother in law likes it, she ain't seen it yet 8-[
Click to expand...


Mother in law is ALWAYS a gamble... (hammer) (hammer) (hammer) . I always think of her when I hear "Maxwells Silver Hammer"


----------



## monkeybiter

My son is a LARPer [live action role play IIRC] and keeps asking for various bits of equipment making.
Well I finally got round to making one, an armour stand. 
It's nothing special, it'll stand in a field and get knocked about a bit, but I think it looks the part and I enjoyed making it. [I might even get orders  ]


----------



## rafezetter

monkeybiter":2gry9qa5 said:


> My son is a LARPer [live action role play IIRC] and keeps asking for various bits of equipment making.
> Well I finally got round to making one, an armour stand.
> It's nothing special, it'll stand in a field and get knocked about a bit, but I think it looks the part and I enjoyed making it. [I might even get orders  ]




Very nice, curious about the armour though - the segmented Cuirass and Pauldrons looks semi Samurai style (try saying that 3 times fast when drunk!), but the Helm is a different, more european style.


----------



## DennisCA

Lawn chair, sitting inside so the glue can harden properly, still too cold outside for that:





Made from recycled construction lumber, some sanding, staining and oiling next.


----------



## Benchwayze

rafezetter":327t5s7d said:


> monkeybiter":327t5s7d said:
> 
> 
> 
> My son is a LARPer [live action role play IIRC] and keeps asking for various bits of equipment making.
> Well I finally got round to making one, an armour stand.
> It's nothing special, it'll stand in a field and get knocked about a bit, but I think it looks the part and I enjoyed making it. [I might even get orders  ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice, curious about the armour though - the segmented Cuirass and Pauldrons looks semi Samurai style (try saying that 3 times fast when drunk!), but the Helm is a different, more european style.
Click to expand...


I don't know what you're on about Rafe! :mrgreen: 
Mind you, I could do with a version of this in my bedroom. It would save me using coat hangers suspended from the wardrobe handles, :lol: 

It's a nice, functional, piece of woodwork. BTW!


----------



## morfa

rafezetter":1yqbso86 said:


> Very nice, curious about the armour though - the segmented Cuirass and Pauldrons looks semi Samurai style (try saying that 3 times fast when drunk!), but the Helm is a different, more european style.



LARP is not in anyway historical, so it's probably whatever fits the character/budget.

And yes, LARP = Live Action Role Play. A hobby I indulged in for about 15 years. Good laugh in it's own way.


----------



## Penny

OK, it didn't take a lot of making, just some cleaning, sanding the base and drilling out the hole (Which was really tough actually, the interior wood was really hard and my forstner bit in a pillar drill had a hard time cutting into it - lots of smoke from it as well. I ended up doing it in short bursts to allow it to cool a bit), but I like the end result:


----------



## woodfarmer

I needed a rack for my bike, also guards for the throw over luggage. Made from stainless steel (EN316) some left over from a boat I built back in the late '80s as were the rods  which are way past their best.


----------



## Racers

I once saw a home made rack on a Honda step through, they had used the rear axle as a mounting point! it did look a bit bouncy.

Pete


----------



## DennisCA

Stained the chair in the last photo:






Then I made another one:





Also, a tool holding panel next to my tablesaw with the most used tools, so I don't have to keep going to the workbench in the other side and go back and forth with tools:






And if I've learned something it's always finish your shop projects too. Varnish or oil, anything will do. Makes a much nicer end result and with varnish it makes it easier to keep clean, it's worth the effort.


----------



## Doris

Some fruit I made as part of a commission from locally sourced Ash, with some walnut stems that fellow members of UK Workshop kindly donated to me recently.


----------



## NOTTNICK

devonwoody":1tr1mf1o said:


> NOTTNICK":1tr1mf1o said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, I got some machined American Oak.
> (I didn't own a planer when I made them last year).
> Sorry - not quite last thing I made, but I've not posted piccies on here before and I'm rather proud of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> agree something to be proud of. Keyboard and music, what are your interests?
Click to expand...


I made it for my son's recording studio. There's a pair of them (mirrored).


----------



## Froggy

Doris":342v05ue said:


> Some fruit I made as part of a commission from locally sourced Ash, with some walnut stems that fellow members of UK Workshop kindly donated to me recently.



Fabulous Doris I love them.


----------



## monkeybiter

+1 The fruit does look very good. I like the Poppy heads on your etsy page too, good idea as well.


----------



## Doris

Thank you


----------



## wellywood

DennisCA":1ftc8rxr said:


> Stained the chair in the last photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I made another one:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, a tool holding panel next to my tablesaw with the most used tools, so I don't have to keep going to the workbench in the other side and go back and forth with tools:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if I've learned something it's always finish your shop projects too. Varnish or oil, anything will do. Makes a much nicer end result and with varnish it makes it easier to keep clean, it's worth the effort.



Nice chair Dennis. I thought a couple of Adirondacks would be my next project in time for summer rolling round again. But where's the hole in the arm for the beer bottle?


----------



## Alikingravi

Hi All,

Such superb designs by such great and talented wood workers 8) 

Last thing I made was this little electric guitar which I carved from basswood. Enjoy the pics!

https://plus.google.com/u/0/b/10790...284551181/photos?pageId=107904863907284551181

You can also check out this video for the build progress: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtkNIDEvzy8


----------



## gasman

Kitchen stools in beech turned for the legs and bars and using old kitchen worktops jointed together then shaped for the tops




Cheers Mark


----------



## monkeybiter

I like them.


----------



## DTR

Not quite the last thing I made, but here's Workbench Mk2. Still need to put a shelf in across the stretchers:






Also not the last thing I made, but the last thing I have a photo of. Dad bought a new pump for his water feature, and needed an adapter to fit the existing hose:


----------



## 8squared

Recently finished this garden pub.


----------



## Froggy

Just made this tool cabinet in oak and cherry. Not quite finished - the shelves at the bottom will have drawers (eventually!). I am happy in that I now have better storage for my tools but to be honest I'm not very happy with the quality of work  As my teacher would say 'Could do better'. I rushed it rather and kept making stupid errors, hope they don't show up too much on the pics.










Cheers, Froggy


----------



## Benchwayze

If that's a rush job Froggy, I'd love to see some of your 'better' work!

=D>


----------



## AndyT

The only error I can see is that you haven't left much space for more tools!


----------



## Froggy

Thanks guys, very kind. I'll give a couple away: the doors don't close properly. It's the first time I've used this type of hinge and made a mess of it, need to redo that; you can't see it on these photo's but there are hinge recesses on the right hand side of the right hand door because I fitted the chisel holders upside down and had to turn the door over! There are a couple more but I'm not giving them all away!!!


----------



## Scottdimelow

I too like those, nice chunky seat. The proportions are great.


----------



## Doris

My take on the Tree of Life. Made from old bits of cedar tongue and groove cladding someone was throwing out.


----------



## Froggy

Doris you are one clever Cookie!!


----------



## Froggy

I made this carvers mallet from apple wood yesterday:


----------



## n0legs

I had a little play at a friends workshop, bridgeport, lathe and all his stock at my disposal.
So I made a couple of scratch awls, some marking knife blades and turned a cheap 38mm chisel into a flush chisel. Turned the handles at home from bits and pieces I had laying about.


----------



## frugal

It has been a while since I have posted here (and by a while, I mean a few years). I have not been away from woodworking, just away from forums of any kind.

Anyway the most recent thing I have built was a new front knob for an old Stanley No.4. This was an old plane I picked up from an auction, or a car boot sale some years ago and put on the shelf to forget about. After watching Richard Maguire's latest video on cap irons and smoothing planes I figured I would break this old plane out and have a got at restoring it. The plane is a standard No4, but it had wooden tote and knob so it must be fairly old.

The tote was fine, but the varnish was flaking of; the blade had a little pitting, but was flat; the sole of the plane was dead flat. The only thing that needed replacing was the front knob as it had cracked and split up one side. I did a first attempt in beech to match the tote, but it did not go so well, so this second attempt was in Yew. 







Yes I know that the hole in the top is too large. Unfortunately it needed an 11mm hole and my metric drill bits only go up to 10mm. So I picked the next size up imperial bit, which was half inch.

At some point I will need to make a new tote in yew to match as the current one wobbles from side to side a bit (the hole for the pin at the front of the tote is far too large). For the moment the rear tote just got the varnish sanded off and polished on with a variety of polishing compounds. Unfortunately whatever they used to stain the wood went quite deep so it looks too dark.


----------



## Racers

One way to cure the wobble is a small blob of car body filler in the hole, wax the pin so you can get the tote off, screw it down leave to set.
I think a yew tote would look very nice.

Pete


----------



## frugal

Pete, 

I think that the previous owner of the plane had tried something similar, except that they used wood glue. The results were less than successful as the glue did not stick to the enamelling at all and just made a mess of the bottom of the tote.


----------



## Penny

It may not be the prettiest of workshops and workbench, but it works for me.

I've built a drop down 'flap' for my mitre-saw. In the up position the cutting surface is level with the workbench and allows a full scope of movement. In the down position the gap can be covered with a piece of workbench which I have fabricated from 3 pieces of plywood laminated together, thus extending the working surface.

Not highly technical, nor will it win any beauty prizes but it makes my life easier in the workshop.


----------



## DennisCA

I made some components for an impeller build, which will become my dust collection system. And my workbench is way uglier than Pennys (which looks quite nice). OSB top, spilled some stain on it too. But it'll be easy to replace when it's worn out. All the little marks on the impeller are from balacing once side, I'll handle the other once I'm done with the vanes.


----------



## monkeybiter

Penny":17unxwmp said:


> I've built a drop down 'flap' for my mitre-saw. In the up position the cutting surface is level with the workbench and allows a full scope of movement. In the down position the gap can be covered with a piece of workbench which I have fabricated from 3 pieces of plywood laminated together, thus extending the working surface.



I think the most interesting workshops are full of ingenious solutions like that. Got any more?


----------



## paul-c

monkeybiter":1ql7e8rb said:


> Penny":1ql7e8rb said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've built a drop down 'flap' for my mitre-saw. In the up position the cutting surface is level with the workbench and allows a full scope of movement. In the down position the gap can be covered with a piece of workbench which I have fabricated from 3 pieces of plywood laminated together, thus extending the working surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the most interesting workshops are full of ingenious solutions like that. Got any more?
Click to expand...


i totally agree with monkey biter about this 
i would love to see some photos of your setup penny
and photos of other peoples solutions
cheers paul


----------



## Zeddedhed

Last weekend I had an unexpected 8 hrs of undisturbed peace and quiet when SWIMBO took the little darlings out for some rowdy party or other at what can only be described as a large padded cell for adrenaline fuelled kids - sounds horrific to me. I was only too glad to be left alone in the workshop.

Anyway, the missus had been asking me for ages for a new bathroom cabinet so with Brownie points in mind this was produced:






The mirrors were done on the Monday (cost about £45) and lo SWIMBO did issue aforementioned brownie points in the form of a truly splendid chunk of prime dry aged rump steak from our local beef farmer. A fair trade methinks.


----------



## Froggy

Very nice. Just hope my missus doesn't see it, my list is long enough!!!


----------



## DennisCA

I made a tool holder for my newest hand plane a #7 jointer:


----------



## Doris

A couple of completed commisions. 

2 Cats carved from Sapele and a whale carved from oak.


----------



## xy mosian

Dang you're good at this sort of work. Well done.
xy


----------



## Froggy

I agree with XY you're very good at this.


----------



## Doris

Thanks chaps. Wish my joinery skills were better though. I can't dovetail for toffee.


----------



## xy mosian

Doris":4avsk662 said:


> Thanks chaps. Wish my joinery skills were better though. I can't dovetail for toffee.



Ah but you can see 3D curved surfaces, and their relationships.
xy


----------



## n0legs

Froggy":3vr57duo said:


> I agree with XY you're very good at this.



I also agree :lol: 
They are great Doris =D>


----------



## Doris

Thanks everyone 



xy mosian":fprxw6h4 said:


> Doris":fprxw6h4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks chaps. Wish my joinery skills were better though. I can't dovetail for toffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah but you can see 3D curved surfaces, and their relationships.
> xy
Click to expand...


There's more room for error here though than dovetailing :?


----------



## Froggy

Doris":3pgboubd said:


> Thanks everyone
> 
> 
> 
> xy mosian":3pgboubd said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doris":3pgboubd said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks chaps. Wish my joinery skills were better though. I can't dovetail for toffee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah but you can see 3D curved surfaces, and their relationships.
> xy
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> There's more room for error here though than dovetailing :?
Click to expand...


Dovetailing is something that can be learnt with practice and patience, what you have there is a natural talent =D>


----------



## ColeyS1

adjustable height can opener. lots of very inspiring work being posted


----------



## Sir Percy

A 'dust shelter' for varnishing. Sellotape, Sunday papers and a couple of bits of wood.


----------



## tobytools

i posted elsewhere but just incase it was missed, 
cherry-shaker-side-table-t89637.html

thanks
TT


----------



## jimmy_s

I have been having a go at making a try square. I made it adjustable in the same manner Colen Clinton from Australia makes his.


----------



## Froggy

Looks good. How accurate is it?


----------



## jimmy_s

I checked the blade with a digital vernier, both sides are parallel to within a few thousands of an inch. The stock was planed parallel, checked with verniers before setting on the brass strips. I filed these down, checked them for being parallel and then finished then off on a flat plate with wet and dry down to 400grit.

The blade can be adjusted through the stock via 2 nr m6 cap head Allen screws. These push against 2 stainless pins that move the blade - the central brass pin in the blade is a fulcrum. I could have done with making the treads finer, if I make another one I might try and get metric fine/ BA or UNF tap as the adjustment could be better.

I think it will be accurate enough for woodworking - at least when it gets dropped it can be re-adjusted to bring it back to square.


----------



## Racers

That square looks very nice.

Pete


----------



## DTR

SWMBO wanted a business card holder for when she does the craft stalls etc. We hit upon the idea of using a miniature carving vice to match her full-size one....


----------



## Woodchips2

Clever idea Dave, well done =D> 

What will she do when somebody asks "How much for the vice"? :lol: 

Regards Keith


----------



## Mr T

Here's a couple of things I did recently. The corner shelves were one of the few projects I get to do for the home (cobblers children and alll that!). White painted 9mm MR mdf with poplar lipping and spaces to make 50mm hollow shelves that fit onto batons on the wall, quite tricky to fit.

The other thing is more simple, a laminated tea light holder. I made this for a training session I'm doing at Dakin Flathers bandsaw manufacturers. Its ten band saw cut 1.8mm laminations bend over a male/female former using three f clamps.










Chris


----------



## Exile

made this for a future world champ whos only 6yrs old.


----------



## John15

I like the book shelves Chris - very nice indeed.

John


----------



## Tim_H

After having made some handles for some carbide inserts on my new mini lathe, over the last few days, out of beech and oak.






Today this was my first go at faceplate turning. Walnut and beech, I am pleased with it as a first attempt. However I made lots of mistakes and next time I will do better.






Here it is still on the lathe.






Here still on the glue block on the faceplate.

Have you guessed what it is yet?








It is a Father's day present! A very large egg cup for an ostrich egg! 

I now have to do one for n emu egg!


----------



## mouppe

My first ever bent lamination. Part of the base of a sunburst veneered coffee table. I know it's also possible to have male and female moulds but I preferred doing it with just one side and clamps so I could control the bend more easily.


----------



## Ed Bray

Wow, that looks like a bit of a pain to clamp.

I finished 110 items this afternoon. Very pleased with how they turned out.





They are 8mm x 60mm x 24mm Dominos made from Iroko, these have been made to fit the larger width of the XL Domino and I will use them for outdoor projects. The smaller lighter ones are the original Dominos 8mm x 50mm x 22mm.


----------



## memzey

A garden planter I made for SWMBO from leftovers of the fence I put up last year and some bits of pallet wood:



Acknowledgement to rafezetter for giving me the idea in another thread. I'll post the steps I took in that thread for anyone who is interested.


----------



## Shultzy

My daughter asked me to repair her stepladder. When I got it home it was so riddled with woodworm it was easier to make a new one. It's all oak; the sides, top and back are from an old pew and the steps are floorboard offcuts. Quite difficult to make as none of the cuts are square and the side slope in as well as back. I had to make a Sketchup model to find out what the angles were. She was very pleased with the result.


----------



## n0legs

Shultzy":1n4mhn3y said:


> My daughter asked me to repair her stepladder. When I got it home it was so riddled with woodworm it was easier to make a new one.




Lovely job =D>


----------



## John15

Very nice indeed Shultzy.

John


----------



## DTR

Shultzy":15xgts6i said:


> My daughter asked me to repair her stepladder. When I got it home it was so riddled with woodworm it was easier to make a new one. It's all oak; the sides, top and back are from an old pew and the steps are floorboard offcuts. Quite difficult to make as none of the cuts are square and the side slope in as well as back. I had to make a Sketchup model to find out what the angles were. She was very pleased with the result.



Excellent result, and extra applause for using reclaimed wood =D> =D>


----------



## Dave-Jeffo

So I'm just stating out with the whole joinery/working with wood scene (I'm an engineer so I'm used to metal and machines) 

Recently I managed to get hold of some solid wood worktop (a few different ones) and decided to try my hand at making some chopping boards.. Here is a few of the outcomes.

There nothing special like end grain butchers blocks I've seen but you got to start somewhere  

Cheers Dave


----------



## Froggy

Dave you do have to start somewhere and it doesn't have to complicated work to get a pleasing result. The chopping boards look good and if you get satisfaction from it that motivates you to go on to something else. Keep it up.


----------



## Doris

Dave-Jeffo":vm7gvm93 said:


> So I'm just stating out with the whole joinery/working with wood scene (I'm an engineer so I'm used to metal and machines)
> 
> Recently I managed to get hold of some solid wood worktop (a few different ones) and decided to try my hand at making some chopping boards.. Here is a few of the outcomes.
> 
> There nothing special like end grain butchers blocks I've seen but you got to start somewhere
> 
> Cheers Dave



I've been commsioned to make a chopping board for someone. Interesting idea of using worktop offcuts to use them. A very nice finish too. What did you treat them with?


----------



## Dave-Jeffo

Doris":2zhut1xw said:


> Dave-Jeffo":2zhut1xw said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm just stating out with the whole joinery/working with wood scene (I'm an engineer so I'm used to metal and machines)
> 
> Recently I managed to get hold of some solid wood worktop (a few different ones) and decided to try my hand at making some chopping boards.. Here is a few of the outcomes.
> 
> There nothing special like end grain butchers blocks I've seen but you got to start somewhere
> 
> Cheers Dave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been commsioned to make a chopping board for someone. Interesting idea of using worktop offcuts to use them. A very nice finish too. What did you treat them with?
Click to expand...



Thanks everyone! I'm very happy with the outcome and more importantly I think the finished products are getting better and better every time.
I have finished them with a few coats of food grade tung oil, sanding between coats. To be honest I probably go over the top on how smooth they are but I just can't help my self to get the smoother and smoother.
The good thing about using worktop is there is actually very little work to do. quite often the worktop off cuts/sink cut outs just go in the bin, so I like to think of them as reclaimed/recycled wood.

Doing these has spurred me on to build a workshop (as saw dust and motorbikes doesn't go well together) 
It's not yet finished got quite a bit to go yet but here is what I have so far. 
Sorry about the garden to many projects on so its a state lol

Cheers Dave


----------



## cedarwood

I was asked by a lady for a special gift for her friend who kept on and on about a driftwood tealight holder a friend of hers had as a table center piece.
Well after lots of thought and driving round the farm found what I thought would make a nice piece and made this, comments welcome good or bad lol


----------



## Knot Competent

[attachment=0]99fe1bf6c6df883ccf3f576a029d877d995249ff05208158893a3a423755b8c8.jpg
This is my latest, again in Oak. They're fun to make, and have people scratching their heads!


----------



## Doris

Dave-Jeffo":3ijx4xu8 said:


> The good thing about using worktop is there is actually very little work to do. quite often the worktop off cuts/sink cut outs just go in the bin, so I like to think of them as reclaimed/recycled wood.



I made a Noah's Ark from a piece I was given recently. 
https://gracesilverwood.wordpress.com/2 ... noahs-ark/
I don't think most people realise just how versatile solid worktop is.

just completed this box for my Sister's Boyfriend. I was told he liked trees and so relief carved a tree on the lid with the roots going down to the lid. Don't think I will be using Sapele again for relief carving.


----------



## monkeybiter

Doris":310eyszd said:


> Don't think I will be using Sapele again for relief carving



I am finding Sapele very splintery [in bands] on a piece I am carving, frequent honing and constant attention to grain direction are imperative, but the latter is not always easy when you're creating a form is it?


----------



## Doris

Grain direction doesn't mater as much as it does in joinery but I always try to work with the grain when you can, but you can't always. A sharp chisel or a smaller sweep always help when working across the grain. I have found sapele splintery but not too bad once you adjust to it you should be ok. 

The reason I won't be working with it again for relief carving is because of the grain is too in your face for the carving and detracts from it. A you doing relief work or sculpturing with it at the moment?


----------



## monkeybiter

I've got a Sapele wallet [for the colour] on the go, along with an Oak green man [relief] and a small Beech human head. All ongoing as time and enthusiasm permits. I envy your output.


----------



## James C

Posting something that I made for my Dad recently.






Laser cutter gave quite good results. I did all my crosscuts on the table saw and then found it was set to 88 degrees (homer) .

Anyway after some time on the shooting board with my LAJ it turned out ok.

Happy coincidence with the grain means that when the coasters are lined up correctly it makes the pattern below.


----------



## rafezetter

A simple dual size centre gauge - no idea what wood it's made from (I've asked in general). I'll fess up it's not 100% perfect as I get 2 lines when used either way; with a sharp pencil they are less that 1mm apart, so the bit inbetween is the centre


----------



## SteveF

Cot for Grandaughter

Steve


----------



## Woodchips2

That's one nice cot Steve, well done =D> =D> =D> 

Regards Keith


----------



## SteveF

Woodchips2":2615vkpp said:


> That's one nice cot Steve, well done =D> =D> =D>
> 
> Regards Keith


thankyou

I have a small WIP but is a pain to resize pics

Steve


----------



## CHJ

Now that's destined to be passed down for a few generations I'm sure.



For a quick and easy way to resize images you can use free. Picture resize 6 http://www.rw-designer.com/picture-resize

Basic exe file. change the number in the file name to change pixel count. E.G. PhotoResize400.exe / PhotoResize800.exe / PhotoResize1024.exe Just drag and drop your image to the exe file, it will generate a new image with the size selected incorporated in the name.


----------



## Froggy

That's a beautiful job Steve.


----------



## rafezetter

That's an hierloom for sure  How could it not be?


----------



## n0legs

Cracking job Steve =D>


----------



## GLFaria

Centre-finder for pieces up to 100mm diam.
Beech + danish oil, steel rule 2mm thick.
I used a M&W #400 to check for frame squareness, and a steel protractor to position the rule.

Accurate enough for my woodworking needs.


----------



## Beau

SteveF":s1v5g83f said:


> Cot for Grandaughter
> 
> Steve



Thats top class =D>


----------



## SteveF

CHJ":3jqa23n6 said:


> Now that's destined to be passed down for a few generations I'm sure.
> 
> 
> 
> For a quick and easy way to resize images you can use free. Picture resize 6 http://www.rw-designer.com/picture-resize
> 
> Basic exe file. change the number in the file name to change pixel count. E.G. PhotoResize400.exe / PhotoResize800.exe / PhotoResize1024.exe Just drag and drop your image to the exe file, it will generate a new image with the size selected incorporated in the name.


That software was perfect

I put up a small WIP in the end
cot-wip-mk2-t90230.html

Steve


----------



## ColeyS1

Few more garden bits. The oil tank has got a few left over oak wardrobe legs tenoned up through the bottom, then screwed. The crates are left over slithers of Douglas fir- one day I'll make a lean to greenhouse type thing for them to sit on.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Knot Competent

Very smart crates, Coley. How did you do the lettering?


----------



## ColeyS1

Knot Competent":3nsw1tjc said:


> Very smart crates, Coley. How did you do the lettering?


Thanks bud. The lettering done using stencils and bedec multi surface paint applied with a brush. first time I've tried stencils and the paint oozed a lot underneath the stencil so the lettering isn't very neat. 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## NOTTNICK

I made these for the Primary School I am about to retire from (after 24 years). They are made from a cherry tree I planted soon after I started working there.
The timber had just been lying out on the ground for a year and a half (including 2 winters) after it had been felled in Sep 2013.
Took a lot of cleaning up.
The bells are tuned pentatonically - they sound in tune whatever you hit.
Finished with Tung oil.
Fittings are all stainless steel (apart from aluminium tubing).
https://youtu.be/WoPaGqfV718
To see them in action.
The children seem to love them.


----------



## DennisCA

Mallet I made mostly with hand tools, based on Paul Sellers mallet. Roughed out the lumber with the bandsaw and table saw though. It's rowan wood. Not sure its the ideal wood for this application, but it feels heavy and durable.
















Not finished shaping the mallet head, and it also needs some kind of finish, leaning towards BLO. I'd have liked shellac too but I ain't got none.

The grip might be a wee too short, but it was the longest piece I had. Might trim a bit off the bottom of the mallet head yet to compensate.


----------



## Zeddedhed

I don't know how durable Rowan is either, but at least everything you hit with it is getting hit with something that to my eye is very pretty indeed.

The last mallet I made I really struggled with the tapered mortice. Goodness only knows how the boys of old made such accurate mortices with weird shapes to make their wooden planes.


----------



## Scottdimelow

That is a lovely chunk of wood, I'm sure it'll last years. I think shellac is too brittle for a mallet, stick with oils.


----------



## DennisCA

Thanks! I shaped the head some more and applied linseed oil (boiled), really brought out the end grain. I am much more happy with this mallet now. I hope it'll last:


----------



## Scottdimelow

Wow what a difference. Thor would be proud!


----------



## memzey

A pair of push sticks:



I know there is a trend at the moment for ones which resemble a cross between a bench plane and an iron but I can't get my head around how having your hands that close to a blade could make woodworking safer. I just stick to using two of these at all times.


----------



## DennisCA

Those are better IMO as well, I prefer to use two of that design. Several thicknesses are good as well, the ones I use most are from 18mm plywood, then a pair from 12mm for thinner stock and cuts.


----------



## Cordy

Dennis, your Mallet is fantastic




I much prefer The original colour 
If it was mine I'd hang it on the wall as an ornament 
Cordy


----------



## Woodmonkey

Some prototype trays in walnut for a London based designer to display his tile designs.


----------



## Cordy

Meet Shandy
First attempt at laminating -- 4 pieces of 6 mm Walnut


----------



## DiscoStu

Ok this is the first thing I've ever made using a lathe (bought from Phil and collected yesterday). 

Please don't mock my egg cup - I'm very proud of it!


----------



## charlibalv

markturner":159acjim said:


> Hi, been having a little bit of workshop action lately and managed to make this bookcase in a couple of days this week. Its in solid walnut, with ply veneered shelves, no fancy joinery as I was in a hurry, so the good old domino was in action, but nonetheless, a satisfying project and one of the final pieces for our new kitchen. I just need to complete the extractor canopy and its done.
> 
> The finish is my favourite, festool surfix one step and some wax. I was quite chuffed, as I saw this in a posh furniture shop, with a price ticket of over a grand on it, and thought " I could make that really easily"...so I did!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/url
> 
> [url=http://s499.photobucket.com/user/CoBMrTube/media/DSC_0094_zpszoq2dwgy.jpg.html]
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers, Mark




The first cookbook my wife bought ( befor we met) was the very same 1000 Recipe Cookbook in 1977, we met a few months later.


----------



## Tim_H

DiscoStu":292meozh said:


> Ok this is the first thing I've ever made using a lathe (bought from Phil and collected yesterday).
> 
> Please don't mock my egg cup - I'm very proud of it!



You are on a slippery slope, I only started turning on my Rutland's special offer a few weeks ago and already it has taken over my workbench and I am continually thinking about things I could turn. I turned a file handle out of a 2x4 offcut and was embarrassingly proud. For a first go that is an impressive egg cup. 

Tim


----------



## Doris

River Otter commission, carved from ash.


----------



## gasman

Table made as a commission for a 21st birthday present. It is teak and sycamore with a glass plate over the 21 compartments. Engraved with initials and the date of the birthday. The client is going to put something in each compartment for each year of her daughters life. I thought it was a great idea of hers.
There are 2 secret compartments inside with rare earth magnets acting as locks
















Cheers
Mark


----------



## mseries

charlibalv":36q3olc0 said:


> markturner":36q3olc0 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, been having a little bit of workshop action lately and managed to make this bookcase in a couple of days this week. Its in solid walnut, with ply veneered shelves, no fancy joinery as I was in a hurry, so the good old domino was in action, but nonetheless, a satisfying project and one of the final pieces for our new kitchen. I just need to complete the extractor canopy and its done.
> 
> The finish is my favourite, festool surfix one step and some wax. I was quite chuffed, as I saw this in a posh furniture shop, with a price ticket of over a grand on it, and thought " I could make that really easily"...so I did!
> ....
> 
> Cheers, Mark
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first cookbook my wife bought ( befor we met) was the very same 1000 Recipe Cookbook in 1977, we met a few months later.
Click to expand...

My mother bought me that same cookbook in the late 1980s when I had to start fending for myself. We still have it and my wife considers it the old faithful, something to be relied upon for straightforward receipes using easily available ingredients


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Discostu. Damn good egg cup mate, out of small acorns mighty oaks do grow =D> 

:arrow: gasman. The table is great, I really like it and the idea behind it =D>


----------



## Woodchips2

gasman":904hi1j3 said:


> Table made as a commission for a 21st birthday present. It is teak and sycamore with a glass plate over the 21 compartments. Engraved with initials and the date of the birthday. The client is going to put something in each compartment for each year of her daughters life. I thought it was a great idea of hers.
> There are 2 secret compartments inside with rare earth magnets acting as locks
> 
> Cheers
> Mark



That's a unique present Mark and looks very nice. Well done =D> 

Regards Keith


----------



## HexusOdy

Nothing fine about this but climbing frame for the little one was done recently. The whole thing cost about £350 which was about 2 grand less than the one I copied the design from, and this is much better built.

Just got to finish painting it and put a bit of trim on.


----------



## memzey

Nice!


----------



## woodpig




----------



## Woodchips2

Nice job Woodpig, well done =D> 

Fully loaded with 20 odd chisels must keep you in trim :lol: 

Regards Keith


----------



## Zeddedhed

Finally finished a project I've been working on for what seems like ages.
I posted about it back in June: fitting-cabinet-doors-t90045.html

Anyway, the doors got sorted, the Osmo oil applied and SWIMBO is happy.

So am I - I hate projects hanging around the workshop taking up space - I reckon this damned cabinet covered several miles being moved about almost every day.

Please criticise or comment - just be nice


----------



## Shultzy

The finished table and cabinet in its "natural habitat".






More pictures Here


----------



## woodpig

Couple of nice projects there lads, well done!


----------



## SteveF

woodpig":1lnymkgg said:


>



nice project and tool holder

I can't see the plans anywhere :lol: 
Steve


----------



## ColeyS1

Rush job flight of stairs 
Before





After 




Feel a little releived that hopefully everything will be ready in time for the wedding day








Found this little fella when I was digging holes for the stairs




Couldn't quite figure out why it was like that! :?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## DennisCA

Not really woodworking, more like plastic working. But I've improved my bandsaws dust collection a hundredfold with this:
















There's a big open gap right under the table and the enclosure, and the DC port is at the very bottom, quite inefficient unless you have some kind of monster DC (I will in the future). The spoked cast iron wheels also double as fans throwing the air and dust around. 

So what I did was take a 100mm 45 degree PVC bend I found lying around, cut a notch into it for the bandsaw blade, then I cut into the top to try and mould it against the underside of the table, then I attached neodymium magnets to it to hold it in place. My dust collection is now 99%> perfect.

I did have to remove my earlier modification where I'd put the lower guides on a riser block to bring it up closer to the table. But that's a worthy sacrifice.


----------



## InsaneInTheGrain

Some beautiful work here i have only just started with woodworking and seeing what is possible to create with alot of time and patience is pretty inspirational, i was looking to build a slide and swing set for my little boy and looking at HexusOdy's makes me hope i can come up with something even remotely close =)


----------



## Jmac80

Quickly knocked up a couple of gates for our decking/pergola from scrap pine.
It's my first use of my festool domino df 500  Used the outdoor sipo 10mm domino's - WOW what a machine :lol: 

The gates are to keep the wee one from falling down the steps!


----------



## Doug B

Instagram montage type photo of a Lignum Vitae & Hornbeam handled mallet I've just turned, the LV coming from half of a bowling ball.


----------



## mouppe

Mahogany veneered sunburst coffee table with bent lamination legs and base from solid cherry. Shellac finish.


----------



## custard

Nice work Mouppe. How many hours?


----------



## Beau

Top quality work there mouppe =D>


----------



## mouppe

Thanks, probably about 50 hours if I had to guess, most of which were spent figuring out how to make the components!


----------



## Beau

50 hours! 

That's shifting.


----------



## John15

That's a beautiful coffee table moupe. The top appears to be floating - delightful. 

John


----------



## Racers

Top quality work mouppe.

Pete


----------



## Panda

that table looks really beautiful, mouppe


----------



## AndyT

That certainly is an impressively classy table. 
Is it yours or for a client? 
Also, if you have any shots looking up from underneath I'd be interested to see how you joined the legs to the top. Are there flat stretchers connecting the tops of the legs?
Were the legs sawn from solid, laminated or bent?


----------



## mouppe

Thank you. It's for me- I'd love to make it for a client but I couldn't realistically charge what it cost to make in terms of hours. 

There's nothing special underneath. The legs are set in 1/4" mortises but not glued or screwed in. I did this for two reasons. 

First, the base is very heavy so as to make the centre of gravity as low as possible for stability. Then I was worried someone would move the table by picking up the top and the heavy base would put too much force on the screws attaching it to the legs. This way the top can be moved separately from the base and legs. 

Second, the mortises are deep enough to stop the top rotating and tight enough to prevent the legs delaminating and springing out. The legs are laminated from 8 x 1/8" cherry strips using yellow glue.


----------



## custard

mouppe":26bhqp6n said:


> I'd love to make it for a client but I couldn't realistically charge what it cost to make in terms of hours.



I disagree Mouppe, I think your work is good enough to command a realistic price. Selling your furniture might not be the way you want to go, and that's fair enough (I've been doing it for a few years and it's certainly not the road to riches!) but before I went full time I'd been selling the occasional piece for some time previously because there comes a time when you just run out of space to house your own production, or you want to experiment with different design variations around a similar theme. So unless you're especially generous with a very large circle of family and friends, there comes a time when you pretty much _have_ to start selling your work in order to keep developing as a maker.

Furthermore, it's pieces like your table that are some of the best items to sell. It's pointless offering bread and butter furniture, but impactful, prestige items that occupy a very visible position in the home can always find a market. 

Incidentally, I think you could take that design a little bit further. I'm not sure mixing mahogany and cherry is a natural combination as they're just too similar, plus there are too many mid-priced, factory produced alternatives using these woods. But a sun burst veneer in Macassar Ebony for example is a jaw dropping feature. Another thing to consider might be a subtle touch of inlaid stringing in holly or sycamore to really make the design sing, laminate the legs from tapered lamina to produce a more subtle curve and you'd really have something special. 

I asked how many hours because I can see you've got the technical ability but I wanted to see if you were _efficient_ enough, and you are, fifty hours is actually pretty slick. Look around for an open exhibition, enter a piece like that with an appropriate ticket price, and you might be pleasantly surprised to find out that there are people out there willing to pay for individual craftsmanship, not many it's true, but you only need one!

Good luck, and once again, very well done!


----------



## mouppe

Thanks Custard, I appreciate the advice, particularly on the design. Because the top is not fixed to the legs, I could make another table top and interchange it. I could also experiment with the legs. I thought about tapering the lags actually but decided against it because I was worried about compromising their strength. 

I've been asked to make things for friends and family several times, but some expect to pay less than Ikea prices because it's hand-made (!) and others expect to pay unreasonable prices because I'm a friend and it's not from a store. One thing I am considering is collaborating with our interior decorator to make one-off custom pieces for his clients. That could be interesting and challenging.


----------



## n0legs

That's a cracking table Mouppe, love it =D>


----------



## ColeyS1

Here's a picture frame I've made for my nieces birthday with a photo of her favourite dog.





I struggled getting a decent image with my proper camera (he wanted to lick the lense !) so had to settle on a smartphone picture instead




It did feel like I was creating a little frankenstein cutting and pasting bits of his body :lol: 

Coley


Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## DTR

Haha, excellent :lol:


----------



## Racers

Doing spoons at the moment.



31st July by Racers, on Flickr

Pete


----------



## woodiedonald

Spalted Beech turning.
13" x 5 " x 2".


----------



## Panda

I love that dog picture frame, ColeyS1! Did you already give it to your niece? How did she react?


----------



## Racers

Spoons done.



3rd August by Racers, on Flickr

Pete


----------



## Sheffield Tony

What woods have you got there Pete ? Like the colour on the middle one. And did you work them whilst green ?


----------



## sitefive

about ~ £5 for the paint/screws and a couple of hours to make picnic table from old scrap boards from previously demolished structure that morning.


----------



## mouppe

A "nutsaver." A leather wrench/ spanner for brass knobs for when you need a little extra torque but don't want to pull out the pliers and damage the brass. Mine is sized for the knobs on the fence of my Veritas plough plane, but it works so well I think I am going to make another one for the fence on my honing guide which is often too hard to unscrew. 

I copied the idea from a tutorial by berncarpenter on instagram.


----------



## ColeyS1

Panda":1piq64fs said:


> I love that dog picture frame, ColeyS1! Did you already give it to your niece? How did she react?


Thanks panda [WINKING FACE] it's not her birthday until the 11th so she's not seen it yet. I dropped off her hutch I made for her yesterday so now all I'm hearing is ' when's the rabbit arriving, when's the rabbit arriving' The hutch wasn't even out of the van and she'd already started asking about the wabbit !!! She lives with my mum now after her own mother tried to strangle her,so I think she deserves a little spoiling for a few years atleast !

Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## sitefive

ColeyS1":2belwe43 said:


> Panda":2belwe43 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I love that dog picture frame, ColeyS1! Did you already give it to your niece? How did she react?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks panda [WINKING FACE] it's not her birthday until the 11th so she's not seen it yet. I dropped off her hutch I made for her yesterday so now all I'm hearing is ' when's the rabbit arriving, when's the rabbit arriving' The hutch wasn't even out of the van and she'd already started asking about the wabbit !!! She lives with my mum now after her own mother tried to strangle her,so I think she deserves a little spoiling for a few years atleast !
> 
> Coley
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That's pretty messed up.... I guess that's what lack of sunshine does for you


----------



## Racers

Sheffield Tony":1kefmwj0 said:


> What woods have you got there Pete ? Like the colour on the middle one. And did you work them whilst green ?


They are all apple, the top one just has the light reflected off it, all came from the same branch, 
I cut down an apple tree last winter and put the big bits in the shed, it was dampish and quite hard to work.
I have made another one from a branch from a Buddleia which is very light in colour and mildly difficult to work.

I fancy making a big ladle I think I have a suitable branch.

A few more of my spoons in my sycamore bowl.



24th July by Racers, on Flickr

Pete


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## Penny

Latest piece of turning made as a presentation piece for my Church's 100th Anniversary. Oak with a wax finish.


----------



## DTR

An oak peg






As its my first attempt at turning I'm happy with it. Gave my right leg a workout too!


----------



## monkeybiter

I reckon that's quite an achievement, especially as a first go. You must need good coordination to treadle and turn at the same time.


----------



## DTR

monkeybiter":yy0tj1pp said:


> I reckon that's quite an achievement, especially as a first go. You must need good coordination to treadle and turn at the same time.



Thanks. I don't think there's anything special about the coordination, it's no different to driving a car or riding a bike.


----------



## n0legs

Racers":khhepqkq said:


> 24th July by Racers, on Flickr
> 
> Pete



Looking good Pete =D>


----------



## n0legs

Penny":3dea80wa said:


> Latest piece of turning made as a presentation piece for my Church's 100th Anniversary. Oak with a wax finish.
> 
> View attachment 20150805




Cool Penny, very nice =D>


----------



## n0legs

DTR":3mk0k3ye said:


> An oak peg



Nice one Dave =D> 
What's it for ?


----------



## RogerP

n0legs":zxcwgkzj said:


> DTR":zxcwgkzj said:
> 
> 
> 
> An oak peg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice one Dave =D>
> What's it for ?
Click to expand...

Shaker peg?

http://www.nhwoodworking.com/Shaker-peg ... assic.html


----------



## DTR

RogerP":200wfudl said:


> n0legs":200wfudl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DTR":200wfudl said:
> 
> 
> 
> An oak peg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice one Dave =D>
> What's it for ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Shaker peg?
> 
> http://www.nhwoodworking.com/Shaker-peg ... assic.html
Click to expand...


Thanks  It is indeed a shaker peg, albeit nowhere near as nice as the ones in that link. I recently made an oak framed blackboard for the kitchen, then decided I needed a matching shelf for the chalk etc. I made the shelf with a board at the back for ease of mounting to the wall (this kind of thing) and I thought some pegs would finish it off nicely.

Now I just need to make some that match. Seeing Penny's turning above, that's a hard act to follow!


----------



## Penny

n0legs":38yh1266 said:


> Penny":38yh1266 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Latest piece of turning made as a presentation piece for my Church's 100th Anniversary. Oak with a wax finish.
> 
> View attachment 20150805
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool Penny, very nice =D>
Click to expand...



Thanks. I've really pleased with it as my first proper turning apart from playing around with some scraps. 3rd attempt mind. First one exploded on the lathe because of a flaw deep in the wood. Second one cracked and the repair really didn't look good.


----------



## vibraphone

Hope this works!

Oak sink unit in 65mm thick oak, mitred and joined with dominos, quite heavy so the wall needed a bit of extra help.
Air dried oak was run into 18 - 20 cm boards before edge jointing but I don't think movement was gonna be an issue!
The only knot got cut out with the sink hole, I was surprised how much time it took to get the mitres tight as it's not every day
I work with oak this thick, I ended up shaving them with a toothed iron in a number 7 to get a really tight joint, my table saw carriage
wasn't up to the task so I used a track saw to get half way and finished the cut by hand. I'll get it oiled but I was happy enough with the result.
Some nice medullary rays in the oak which will really pop when the oil goes on.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

Finally finished a cufflink box for my brother's birthday 2 years ago.  

Not sure what the sides are, but the lid, base and tray sides are wenge. Brushed acrylic finish then a teeny bit of beeswax, mostly for the smell. I'm fairly pleased with this, did a few new ways of building. I just hope he doesn't fill it too soon and need another.


----------



## DTR

Nice =D>


----------



## Racers

+1

Pete.


----------



## Woodchips2

Lovely box Sporky but what does your brother do with all those cufflinks? (hammer) 

Regards Keith


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

Thanks chaps.

He has one of those jobs that involves double cuffs. That's as much of it as I understand!


----------



## custard

Sporky McGuffin":ia711hxt said:


> Not sure what the sides are, but the lid, base and tray sides are wenge.



Nice job Sporky =D> 

Your choice of Wenge is an interesting one. I'm hearing around the timber yards that quality Wenge is getting scarcer and scarcer. Every chance that Wenge will soon go on the CITES list and join that increasingly long roll call of timbers that are virtually unobtainable. Cocobolo's another one where it might be a smart move to salt away a few choice boards.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

Thanks!

I've got a couple of nice bits of wenge - one a fairly big quartersawn board from which the box came. I'd not heard it was getting scarce, as you say it might be worth seeing if I can grab some more bits. I've got a chunk of cocobolo that was originally going to end up as about 6-8 fretboards but hasn't yet found a project, plus some bits of ziricote, bocote and so on - I went through a period of trying to pick up one nice bit of something exotic a month or so. 

Anyone got any idea what the sides are? There's nothing similar in my Big Boys Book Of Wood. I'll get a better photo of what's left of the board - it was £3 in the offcuts bin at Surrey Timbers a few years back. Very curly, and pretty much the same colour as in the photos, a light honey. I ended up thicknessing it with the CNC machine and a huge surfacing bit as the thickness planer just tore chunks out and my hand-planing skills aren't yet good enough.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

Ah - I think it might be Afzelia on the sides.


----------



## woodpig

Wood turning tool with carbide insert.


----------



## monkeybiter

Very nicely made, superbly finished. Were you not tempted to knurl the grippy end? That's not a detraction, it really is well made.


----------



## woodpig

I thought it may be a bit rough and I only had enough material for one so didn't want to risk mucking it up! :mrgreen:


----------



## Racers

I have just finished this box.



Ripple ash bog oak and brown oak box by Racers, on Flickr



Ripple ash bog oak and brown oak box by Racers, on Flickr



Ripple ash bog oak and brown oak box by Racers, on Flickr



Ripple ash bog oak and brown oak box by Racers, on Flickr

Its ripple ash thinned down on the band saw than hand planed to thickness.
The lap joints planed with my shoulder plane and the bottom grooved with a Record 43.
The base was glued up from the off cuts from the sides and chamfered to fit the groves.
I band sawed the lid to shape and shaped the top of the lid first with an axe to remove an much of the waste as I dared, then planes, gouges rasps etc. The inside was smoothed with a small wooden compass plane and the grove cut with gouges.
After lots of sanding (I hate sanding) it was finished.

Slots where cut into the back for the Bog oak hinges and the lid notched, holes where marked on the ends of the lid and with a freshly sharpened 4mm lip and spur bit the hinge holes where drilled, the hinge holes where drilled using the lid as a guide.
Brass hinge pins where inserted and the holes where plugged with Bog Oak plugs, made by hammering a thin length of bog oak through a home made dowel plate.
The ripple ash had a thin coat of Danish oil and a couple of coats of Renaissance wax, the lid had 3 coats of Danish oil and was scotch brited and waxed.

I do like the lap joint method of box making it hides your bottom groves and works well, I will probably use the router table to cut them next time.

Pete


----------



## Woodchips2

Lovely box, well done Pete =D> =D> =D> 

Regards Keith


----------



## blackrodd

Absolutely love that box, any chance of a gander at those splenduberous hinges and the inside please?
Regards Rodders


----------



## woodpig

Lovely box Pete. The hinge details look good.


----------



## John15

Very nice box Pete

John


----------



## Racers

I will sort the missing photo out as soon as the Internet comes back up. 
The hinge is just a P shaped peice of bog oak. 

Pic fixed hopefully you can see the hinge detail.

Pete


----------



## blackrodd

Double spleandobourus, A pleasure to see and thanks for the extra pics, and excellent pics they are too!
Regards Rodders


----------



## blackrodd

Double spleandobourus, A pleasure to see and thanks for the extra pics, and excellent pics they are too!
Regards Rodders


----------



## ColeyS1

This was the rabbit hutch I knocked up using left over wood. Only a rough job but hopefully it'll last long enough to see my niece through. The slats were Douglas fir and the frame of the hutch larch. I gave her the rabbit for her birthday yesterday and it's fair to say she was pretty excited !!!




She liked the picture but the main interest was back to the fluff ball 'Milly' 
Just need to knock a run together now- why is there always ' one more job' ha

Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Racers

Hinge closeups!



Hinge detail inside by Racers, on Flickr



Hingh detail outside by Racers, on Flickr

Its just a piece of P shaped Bog oak glued into a slot cut in the back, corners rounded and the a relief cut into the lid.

Pete


----------



## DTR

Nice work


----------



## gregmcateer

ColeyS1":2gsm23qx said:


> This was the rabbit hutch I knocked up using left over wood. Only a rough job but hopefully it'll last long enough to see my niece through. The slats were Douglas fir and the frame of the hutch larch. I gave her the rabbit for her birthday yesterday and it's fair to say she was pretty excited !!!
> Just need to knock a run together now- why is there always ' one more job' ha
> 
> Coley



Nice job, Coley - looks a great hutch for the furball.


----------



## beganasatree

Hi Pete,
Thanks for sharing your box,it looks great especially the lid and the hinges.Your a brave man using an axe on something that small and thin.

Peter


----------



## ColeyS1

gregmcateer":3er8ptcx said:


> Nice job, Coley - looks a great hutch for the furball.


Thanks pal 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Racers

beganasatree":d1j6sbo4 said:


> Hi Pete,
> Thanks for sharing your box,it looks great especially the lid and the hinges.Your a brave man using an axe on something that small and thin.
> 
> Peter



Thanks.

It is wickedly sharp axe :shock: 

Pete


----------



## monkeybiter

It's not flat stuff, but it's the last thing I made;

It's a birthday present for a family friend called Penny, born in 1992 [ :shock: ], hence the insert on the knob.


----------



## skronk

Lovely job Monkeybiter.


----------



## DTR

+1, love the penny.


----------



## DTR

DTR":304b93v3 said:


> An oak peg



Pegs now put to use:







The shelf is made from the same oak as the blackboard above it, reclaimed from a fence post.


----------



## sitefive

made a quick coat hanger today as well :roll: How did you made those pegs?


----------



## DTR

Yours is a lot more graceful than mine  I turned the pegs, there's a photo somewhere further up the thread.


----------



## pennardesign

Doris":3jz6ct0x said:


> The last thing I carved for my cousins wedding present.



Well done, I wish I had carving skills


----------



## pennardesign

Lons":1ngttop2 said:


> Made this set yesterday



Never tried turning pens, look good.


----------



## pennardesign

richarnold":2m5zt4kr said:


> The last thing I made on my own was a Computer desk in air dried olive ash from MAC timbers with bog oak handles and cock beading. It was a great piece to make, but I probably got the price completely wrong and hardly made minimum wage doing it. I don't really care though as you don't get commissions like this every day



That looks amazing, well done


----------



## n0legs

DTR":34egtah6 said:


> DTR":34egtah6 said:
> 
> 
> 
> An oak peg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pegs now put to use:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shelf is made from the same oak as the blackboard above it, reclaimed from a fence post.
Click to expand...


Smart Dave, that's some brownie points earned :lol: =D>


----------



## n0legs

sitefive":20rx4m2y said:


> made a quick coat hanger today as well :roll: How did you made those pegs?




Nice =D> 

Are those european sockets on the wall? I thought you were in Newcastle.


----------



## RogerP

n0legs":31vr7uvq said:


> Nice =D>
> Are those european sockets on the wall? I thought you were in Newcastle.


... look like thermostat controls to me.


----------



## blackrodd

Does look like euro sockets, Good going to make, stain, paint and fit the hangers and unit in a day.
Sounds more like Maillee! looks nice though.
Regards Rodders


----------



## ColeyS1

Finally got round to do rabbits run over the weekend.













That's all the left over slithers gone now. I'm releived- come the end finding a job for all the offcuts started giving me headaches 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## monkeybiter

Nice looking hutch! Are you going to treat the outside against the weather?


----------



## blackrodd

Mr wabbitt looks very happy in his new abode, and so he should!
Nice job and like the lifting handle.
Regards Rodders.


----------



## ColeyS1

monkeybiter":66zvi8hi said:


> Nice looking hutch! Are you going to treat the outside against the weather?


Thanks Mike it's Douglas fir so I'm just gonna let it weather and hope it lasts ....
Thanks rodders, the rabbit certainly seems to like being on the grass - munch munch munch 

Coley 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: ColeyS1, that's really cool =D>


----------



## Mark A

Nice hutch. 

How will you stop the rabbits from digging underneath and escaping?

When I was a kid my rabbit did just that...we found it two days later decapitated. Not sure what killed it - cat or bird of prey maybe?


----------



## DennisCA

An 18" wooden impeller, balanced and tested, I stood outside the shop with a remote and started it, when done it will be in it's own separate room:





It sounds like a jet engine, powered by a 5.3HP 3-phase motor. I won't be lacking for DC power when this is done. It's a bit scary to tell the truth, I only took this pic as I had cut the power and it was spinning down. The wind thrown out to the sides was so strong it made some of my homemade wooden bar clamps fall off their hangers. Now to continue on the enclose, then a thien separator.


----------



## ColeyS1

n0legs":ri7sbtpi said:


> :arrow: ColeyS1, that's really cool =D>


Thanks mate. I was gonna do a normal triangle shape run but the wire wasn't wide enough to make it a decent size. In hindsight it'd probably have worked out cheaper to buy new wire instead of making it a odd shape. 
Mark, to be honest I hadn't thought about her digging her way out. Everytime I've had a sneaky peak to see what's she's up to there's been a cat sat very close by- if she decides to try and play with pussy cat......... 

Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## DTR

ColeyS1":3mo8z7nv said:


> Everytime I've had a sneaky peak to see what's she's up to there's been a cat sat very close by- if she decides to try and play with pussy cat cat.........



I little while back, next-door's rabbit escaped into our garden and our cat took immediate interest. I thought the cat would come off best, but I was mistaken. Somewhere I've got a video of the rabbit trying to engage in sexual relations with the cat....


----------



## Doris

pennardesign":2tgcxxos said:


> Doris":2tgcxxos said:
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I carved for my cousins wedding present.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well done, I wish I had carving skills
Click to expand...

Thanks. Give it a try sometime.


----------



## sitefive

blackrodd":25psj7l9 said:


> Does look like euro sockets, Good going to make, stain, paint and fit the hangers and unit in a day.
> Sounds more like Maillee! looks nice though.
> Regards Rodders


good eye, euro socket that is,not going to spend the summer in the ''lovely'' uk weather.
the most time consuming part was going to shop and choosing the hangers , the rest can be done in less than an hour if you take out the paint drying process , it's just 4pieces of sticks screwed together :roll:


----------



## richarddownunder

Well, its not really woodwork, but it has a got a bit of wood. Yew in fact which was ridiculously expensive and full of splits so only a fraction of it was usable. Still, the usable bit looks quite nice.






Cheers
Richard


----------



## monkeybiter

V. nice, I like the shape as much as the wood, looks very 'holdable'/ergonomic.


----------



## ColeyS1

DTR post video or it never happened 
Here's a few other bits I've finished in the last week





I wanted a bp enamel sign for ages and one finally came up on ebay which was relatively cheap and localish. It must have sat outside for a while as a lot of the edges were rusty and sharp. At some point it must have been used as target practice cause it was full of bullet holes ! The easiest way to overcome it (and the picture rail being in the way) was to make a frame to cover the nasties. 




The thing weighs a ton so I thought better be safe than sorry so allowed for plenty of fixings behind the cartridge screw caps. Even though I epoxied the joints and reinforced the corners with metal brackets the sign being so warped and bowed soon caused one joint to snap, followed by another, followed by another. It was quite an experience feeling the tension in the metal pull the poor frame to bits  luckily the metal brackets held it all together until it got fixed back to the wall  the frame was left sawn with a couple licks of bedec msp paint
Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## ColeyS1

Green oak planters, very wet ( note unpegged joints and boards squeezed up tight)




I left them in the shed for 3 weeks and couldn't believe how much the boards had shrunk !!!!!!!!!!!!! I thought leaving them out in the rain would cure it but they haven't swelled up much at all yet.







I did the tongues 7mm but even now there only in the grooves by about 2mm- shame really - live and learn :?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## memzey

They look really nice! A&C style I see. How thick are the leg posts and rails if you don't mind me asking? They look roughly 3" and 2" respectively. There's a place near me that does green oak sleepers I was thinking of resawing for something similar.


----------



## richarddownunder

monkeybiter":ysnl8cf6 said:


> V. nice, I like the shape as much as the wood, looks very 'holdable'/ergonomic.



Thanks. Yes, its quite comfy shape to hold I feel, so its the design I think I have settled on to make a small batch of them. This knife-making business has been a bit of a distraction from real woodwork though. Need to get it out of my system so I can get on with the jewellery box I started 6 months ago!

Cheers
Richard


----------



## DennisCA

I really like those planter boxes, been looking at designs online but nothing has "popped" for me until now. I'll definitely be making something in those lines, though in something cheaper than oak!


----------



## ColeyS1

Thanks for the kind words guys.


memzey":200xgdnf said:


> How thick are the leg posts and rails if you don't mind me asking? They look roughly 3" and 2" respectively.


That's about right for the section sizes. If you pm me your email I can send you the sketchup file if it's any use 
Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Doug B

Small Oak table made to go with two insanely cheap Oak IKEA chairs


----------



## Benchwayze

A nice project Doug. I do like the chairs especially, and I wouldn't mind making a trial chair in pine. I have the oak for a table, but I need a full dining size; to " 'show off' the extension, instead of filling it with PC junk!" says SWMBO. it would also avoid stowing dining chairs in unoccupied corners. (I think she's right about the dining chairs, as it happens!) 

Nice work Doug. 

John


----------



## Zeddedhed

Just delivered this bathroom mirror cabinet in American Black Walnut. Customer very pleased. Result.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Adam9453

very nice zeddedhead, looks lovely.

Is it solid american black walnut or veneered?


----------



## Zeddedhed

Thanks Adam.
The carcass is solid, as are the internal shelves and dividers which you can't see. The back panel is 13mm veneered MDF as are the doors behind the mirrors.
Finished with 4 coats of Osmo Polyx clear Matt


----------



## Billy Flitch

Two saw totes spalted cherry, one coat BLO then shellack Tenon saw sharpened and set X cut 12 tpi.
Two chisel handles styled after London octagonals wood Plumb one coat BLO then shellack.


----------



## custard

Zeddedhed":2udx3y6a said:


> Just delivered this bathroom mirror cabinet in American Black Walnut. Customer very pleased. Result.



Very smart. If you've got any off-cuts sell them a matching towel rail (but finish with poly as Walnut bleeds into damp white towels).

http://www.heals.com/furniture/bathroom ... orage.html


----------



## n0legs

Zeddedhed":2lv3lehg said:


> Just delivered this bathroom mirror cabinet in American Black Walnut. Customer very pleased. Result.



Very very nice, really starting to like this walnut stuff =D> 
Hopefully they'll be returning customers


----------



## n0legs

Billy Flitch":9vkeiaur said:


> Two saw totes spalted cherry, one coat BLO then shellack Tenon saw sharpened and set X cut 12 tpi.
> Two chisel handles styled after London octagonals wood Plumb one coat BLO then shellack.



Lovely work Billy =D> 
Those handles gorgeous.


----------



## cgarry

After many weeks of practice, I finally joined two bits of scrap oak together without being too unhappy with the result!





And here is the same joint with some of its more ugly predecessors.





I am definitely still learning this particular skill, but hopefully I have made most of my share of bad dovetails so that I might now be able to make a few good ones. I suppose I should come up with a project that has some dovetails in it...

Cheers,
Chris


----------



## Beau

Zeddedhed":1x1k88pu said:


> Just delivered this bathroom mirror cabinet in American Black Walnut. Customer very pleased. Result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Very nice work

Is this the one you mention in the other thread that you have sold lots of?


----------



## Benchwayze

cgarry":z5xn3bqn said:


> After many weeks of practice, I finally joined two bits of scrap oak together without being too unhappy with the result!
> 
> 
> And here is the same joint with some of its more ugly predecessors.
> 
> 
> I am definitely still learning this particular skill, but hopefully I have made most of my share of bad dovetails so that I might now be able to make a few good ones. I suppose I should come up with a project that has some dovetails in it...
> 
> Cheers,
> Chris



Yoh'm doin' oaright ah kid! (hammer)


----------



## Zeddedhed

Beau":2cszxju1 said:


> Zeddedhed":2cszxju1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just delivered this bathroom mirror cabinet in American Black Walnut. Customer very pleased. Result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice work
> 
> Is this the one you mention in the other thread that you have sold lots of?
Click to expand...


It certainly is Beau. Although this one was made of ABW as opposed to Oak, so it sold for about 25% more.

It's not complicated or clever, and could be made by any decent carpenter with a few tools. But it helps pay the bills.


----------



## monkeybiter

'scrap oak' ... I didn't know there was such a thing!


----------



## DTR

Little knock down workbench






It started life as a stand for my ML4 lathe. Then when I moved the ML4 to another bench, this one got converted into a potting bench. Then SWMBO took up wood turning and once again this was used as a lathe stand. Finally she upgraded to a bigger lathe and the stand became surplus again. We decided that this would make a handy knock down bench for when my siblings give me DIY jobs :hammer:


----------



## rafezetter

ColeyS1":eil1tun5 said:


> n0legs":eil1tun5 said:
> 
> 
> 
> :arrow: ColeyS1, that's really cool =D>
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks mate. I was gonna do a normal triangle shape run but the wire wasn't wide enough to make it a decent size. In hindsight it'd probably have worked out cheaper to buy new wire instead of making it a odd shape.
> Mark, to be honest I hadn't thought about her digging her way out. Everytime I've had a sneaky peak to see what's she's up to there's been a cat sat very close by- if she decides to try and play with pussy cat cat.........
> 
> Coley
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


How about maybe adding some long nails or something to the bottom so that it then makes an underground "cage" should she try to dig. It would have the added benefit of securing it to the ground on windy days.

I like that shape more than the basic triangle though - more elegant. Paint / stain it red with white trim....


----------



## riclepp

heres my effort of a 3 meter x 1.5 meter notice board.











Making it was quite uneventful, the same cant be said about the installation.....it was emotional!!!!


----------



## DennisCA

Made a small octagonal patio table:










Applied stain, I am not sure if this table wouldn't have looked nicer without it and just gone directly to varnish, but oh well I wanted it to fit in with the chairs better, still going to varnish it with Epifanes spar varnish, I'm diluting it 50/50 with mineral spirits to get a rub on finish rather than a brush one:





It'll be interesting to see how that turns out.


----------



## DTR

Nice


----------



## monkeybiter

That looks nice and it looks useful. It's going on my list.


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Dennis, looks great.


----------



## Benchwayze

Dennis, 

A very nice job indeed. I better keep it away from SWMBO! 

I think you might be right about the stain though. Pine doesn't always take stain very evenly. Have you considered mixing the stain with clear polyurethane (Or whatever varnish you used?) The stain is carried in the finish itself, resulting in a more even colour; so I found. It needs to be a spirit stain of course, and not water based. 

HTH. 

John


----------



## monkeybiter

Just spotted the wooden clamps, I like them too!


----------



## DennisCA

Thanks (to all), those clamps are John Heisz's design btw.

Benchwayze, I use Epifanes spar varnish, it's tung oil and phenolic resin based rather than poly. I read poly while slightly more scratch resistant is not as long lasting outdoors, this brand supposedly comes with a lot of UV blockers and is used for boats and is easier to touch up. I didn't feel I had the time to start experimenting and this varnish was rather expensive.

What I've been wanting to try is using shellac as a sealer before stain as I saw on an episode of the Wood Whisperer but I have none.


----------



## Doris

Another year another nativity scene. Carved the figures from some lime offcuts and made the stable with some offcuts. The background is glass which I painted.


----------



## Benchwayze

Dennis.. 


I suppose shellac would be ok as a sealer. It's commonly used as 'knotting', to seal knots, to prevent them bleeding resin through paint finishes. So I have only ever used it in 'spots', wherever there was a knot in pine. We don't call it knotty-pine without reason!


----------



## monkeybiter

That's an attractive nativity scene, looks well made. Did you see my post about the Rutlands carving vice?


----------



## Doris

monkeybiter":1dujg1t1 said:


> That's an attractive nativity scene, looks well made. Did you see my post about the Rutlands carving vice?


Thank you. Yes DTR showed me they had that reduced. I prefer this one he built me personally though as it can take a bit more of a bashing.

https://gracesilverwood.wordpress.com/d ... ving-vice/

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk


----------



## Rusticwood

I haven't been on for a while so I thought I'd show you this :-
42lb flatbow in ash


----------



## Rusticwood

And it works well


----------



## monkeybiter

excellent! A wip would be nice.


----------



## mseries

That's lovely Doris.


----------



## mseries

I made some doors late last year (post925463.html#p925463). The weather turned so the project was shelved as painting in my unheated garage workshop was a no no. All summer I was busy with other things, my wife's office refurb. and staircase refurb. Finally got round to attempting to finish the lobby-larder. Last weekend I fitted the hinges and trimmed the doors to fit the carcass, then during the week after work I

Monday: applied filler to the raw MDF edges
Tuesday: sanded the filler and the untreated edges
Wednesday: primed the MDF
Friday: sanded the un-filled edge and undercoated the whole lot

Saturday/Sunday: top coats



Larder Doors by Mseries, on Flickr

not sure there is much difference between the filled and not filled edges. We'll see once the paint has hardened


----------



## damo8604

The last thing I made is actually the first thing that I made, and its thanks to this forum (and heaps of YouTube videos) that it was such a succes!

As I've said before, I'm new to this hobby and needed a place to practice my butchery, so it seemed obvious that I dive straight into the deep end and build a workshop......

Voila!






I'm happy with my first attempt, even more importantly, SWMBO is impressed enough to ask me to build a log cabin for the kids next year!

*Edit removed blurb as I've done a WIP thread


----------



## n0legs

damo8604":2uis6qhr said:


> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Result!




Sweet =D>


----------



## IHc1vtr+

Pocket watch stand and 40 year calendar. Made from reclaimed mahogany. I'm no photographer, so excuse pic. The line round inside circumference of watch recess is brass inlay, not a mistake LOL. As i said pic is rubbish. Yes the watch is a bit close to edge, beginners mitake as i did cut-out before bevel edge...DOH


----------



## xy mosian

A couple of Welsh Stick Chairs after John Brown.





They have taken most of the summer but kept me out of mischief.

xy


----------



## Melinda_dd

Nothing major but the other half was nagging for one!

Made from a big slab of Burr Elm and finished in food safe oil and a thin coat of bees wax.


----------



## monkeybiter

That's a lovely little piece, well matched to the blade, I think.


----------



## Woodchips2

xy mosian":3blhg3xa said:


> A couple of Welsh Stick Chairs after John Brown.
> 
> 
> They have taken most of the summer but kept me out of mischief.
> 
> xy



They look lovely xy, well done =D> =D> =D>

They'll be family heirlooms :lol: 

Regards Keith


----------



## jamesevenlode

I made these:


----------



## xy mosian

Melinda_dd":1pnladyy said:


> Nothing major but the other half was nagging for one!
> 
> Made from a big slab of Burr Elm and finished in food safe oil and a thin coat of bees wax.



Nicely Done! That must have taken some whittling from a ' big slab of Burr Elm ' , hey hey.

xy


----------



## xy mosian

Woodchips2":1kb9tu0r said:


> They look lovely xy, well done =D> =D> =D>
> 
> They'll be family heirlooms :lol:
> 
> Regards Keith



Thanks Keith. If they last 'til I don't need them anymore that'll do me.

xy


----------



## Melinda_dd

monkeybiter":19smej93 said:


> That's a lovely little piece, well matched to the blade, I think.



Thanks mike. I'm really pleased with the shape... just wish I used a lil less glue so there was no gap... could have got the blade in all the way


----------



## xy mosian

jamesevenlode":123el5fu said:


> I made these:



They look great, I'll bet you get a big kick from playing them, or hearing someone else do so.

xy


----------



## Melinda_dd

xy mosian":3vu4cjbd said:


> Melinda_dd":3vu4cjbd said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing major but the other half was nagging for one!
> 
> Made from a big slab of Burr Elm and finished in food safe oil and a thin coat of bees wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nicely Done! That must have taken some whittling from a ' big slab of Burr Elm ' , hey hey.
> 
> xy
Click to expand...


Thanks. ... it took a little time. .. but was sped up no end with the help of my mini bandsaw and a sanding bit in my drill press!!


----------



## jamesevenlode

xy mosian":3f69ledx said:


> jamesevenlode":3f69ledx said:
> 
> 
> 
> I made these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They look great, I'll bet you get a big kick from playing them, or hearing someone else do so.
> 
> xy
Click to expand...


Cheers, 

Well, like any woodworker I just look at them as a series of minor mistakes. 
They play pretty well though- I was a pro player before I became a builder so I know what I like in that regard.

I'm hoping the next few are a step up in terms of finish and overall build quality.


----------



## n0legs

xy mosian":l7eccb5v said:


> A couple of Welsh Stick Chairs after John Brown.
> 
> 
> They have taken most of the summer but kept me out of mischief.
> 
> xy




Stunning =D>


----------



## n0legs

Melinda_dd":1sdho8ks said:


> Nothing major but the other half was nagging for one!
> 
> Made from a big slab of Burr Elm and finished in food safe oil and a thin coat of bees wax.



Looks great M_dd


----------



## n0legs

jamesevenlode":93b23y2b said:


> I made these:




They look great, excellent =D>


----------



## Benchwayze

jamesevenlode":2kx9qzmd said:


> xy mosian":2kx9qzmd said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jamesevenlode":2kx9qzmd said:
> 
> 
> 
> I made these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They look great, I'll bet you get a big kick from playing them, or hearing someone else do so.
> 
> xy
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Well, like any woodworker I just look at them as a series of minor mistakes.
> They play pretty well though- I was a pro player before I became a builder so I know what I like in that regard.
> 
> I'm hoping the next few are a step up in terms of finish and overall build quality.
Click to expand...


Very nice. I can almost hear the intonation! 

I regret selling my acoustic. Saves having to plug in for every practice! 
Did you find building and guitar-playing don't go together very well? I am forever knocking my fingers about. So far nothing serious, but the risk is always there. 

Cheers


----------



## jamesevenlode

Benchwayze":2kvn8q09 said:


> Did you find building and guitar-playing don't go together very well? I am forever knocking my fingers about. So far nothing serious, but the risk is always there.
> 
> Cheers



Very much so.


----------



## xy mosian

n0legs":2vryffm3 said:


> xy mosian":2vryffm3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of Welsh Stick Chairs after John Brown.
> 
> 
> They have taken most of the summer but kept me out of mischief.
> 
> xy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stunning =D>
Click to expand...


Sorry I missed this NoLegs. Thanks. 
It's bad form, I know, but I must admit to walking around with a self-satisfied smile.
xy


----------



## DTR

A quick release tripod shoe for SWMBO's camera:






WIP thread here


----------



## 8squared

Had a scrap 2x4 so made this with my kids as part of Steve Ramses fund raising effort.


----------



## Rich.ca

A built-in and floating shelves I made last week, they'll be painted white


----------



## xy mosian

Great plane.
xy


----------



## DTR

Rich.ca":246rosv6 said:


> A built-in and floating shelves I made last week, they'll be painted white



Nice =D>


----------



## blackrodd

Rich.ca":2ijqjtow said:


> A built-in and floating shelves I made last week, they'll be painted white



Very nicely made, almost a pity to paint it!
Regards Rodders


----------



## John15

Very nice Rich

John


----------



## Austinisgreat

Evening good people, total newbie here, be nice!

First things I've made (other than a few electric guitars) which I'm not too embarrassed to show people!

A simple box of reclaimed mahogany






Which is used thus:






A cheese-board for a good friend from sycamore and walnut






A "proper chopping board" from maple, ash, and walnut in seven pieces











I love seeing all the good stuff you guys make. Those chairs are amazing. I gather inspiration from you people, thank you so much for sharing your experience and knowledge.

Cheers

Andrew


----------



## monkeybiter

That's some nicely made stuff Mr. IsGreat


----------



## DennisCA

Small solar collector for the shop


----------



## Setch

Rosewood & beech end grain chopping board for my brothers wedding present. His bride is Chinese, hence the traditional double happiness symbol. The designs go through like a stick of rock, albeit the names were reversed so they don't read backwards on one face.


----------



## Austinisgreat

monkeybiter":h3rjllgt said:


> That's some nicely made stuff Mr. IsGreat



Thanks for the encouragement, Mr Biter


----------



## Austinisgreat

Setch":1ywihdjt said:


> Rosewood & beech end grain chopping board for my brothers wedding present. His bride is Chinese, hence the traditional double happiness symbol. The designs go through like a stick of rock, albeit the names were reversed so they don't read backwards on one face.




Nice one, Setch. I do hope you spelt it correctly :lol: 

Andrew


----------



## Littlemantodo

Made this for my little girls birthday this week, was not only the last thing I made, but also the first thing I made - got the bug now!


----------



## Kalimna

What a delightful, charming thing you have made, Littlemantodo. I do hope your little girl enjoys playing with it 

And Jamesevenlode, I'm always keen on seeing others' luthiery - nice finish on both guitars  Care to give any construction details? 

Cheers,
Adam


----------



## xy mosian

Setch":2hzjlb2x said:


> Rosewood & beech end grain chopping board for my brothers wedding present. His bride is Chinese, hence the traditional double happiness symbol. The designs go through like a stick of rock, albeit the names were reversed so they don't read backwards on one face.


That looks like very intricate work. Especially around the names, well done!
xy


----------



## Setch

Thanks XY! It was fiddly work, and I only just had enough rosewood, and barely enough time to get it done. Suprisingly, the names were relatively easy, even though they're composed of about 70 components.


----------



## richarddownunder

[Well, like any woodworker I just look at them as a series of minor mistakes. 
They play pretty well though- I was a pro player before I became a builder so I know what I like in that regard.

I'm hoping the next few are a step up in terms of finish and overall build quality.[/quote]

Ha ha, I know what you mean. I made my first guitar last year and feel exactly the same - a series of minor mistakes but it plays quite well. Not sure I have the resolve to attempt another!


----------



## DTR

Setch":2hbcrglz said:


> Thanks XY! It was fiddly work, and I only just had enough rosewood, and barely enough time to get it done. Suprisingly, the names were relatively easy, even though they're composed of about 70 components.



How clever =D>


----------



## cusimar9

I've just finished this cot bed for our little one, WIP in my sig if anyone's interested


----------



## xy mosian

Setch":1jgz963r said:


> Thanks XY! It was fiddly work, and I only just had enough rosewood, and barely enough time to get it done. Suprisingly, the names were relatively easy, even though they're composed of about 70 components.


I can see that if you are used to using an ' Eye operating tool ' then what I see as tricky would fall easily to you.
Nice job.
xy


----------



## Doris

Some of this years reindeers. Made from mahogany this time and twice as big.


----------



## focusonwood

I've always wanted to post something to this thread...my first project;


----------



## Cordy

Nice neat work-bench focusonwood


----------



## 8squared

Almost finished the garden decking... Just one last piece to fit.

Mrs wanted the pallet look.


----------



## DennisCA

Does a video count?
https://youtu.be/JrW-fWd8g-Y

Well I can put in a photo too:


----------



## ColeyS1

I made a strange hanging basket with a huge colander I got from the tip and two hammers I bought from eBay for under a tenner








I drilled a hole big enough so a long coach screw would go through then welded it on the back of the claw. I've never struggled so much just drilling a 10mm hole- It never crossed my mind that the head would be hardened and snap/blunten drill bits for a pastime  just need to fill it with some flowers now.
After having the other planters I made empty for months, I finally bought 1 plant, then another, then another and started filling them. 




I just wanted to update with them finally being used 
I'm sure the novelty of getting my hands muddy will soon wear off- probably around the time all the plants start dying :lol:

Coley


Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## John15

Very attractive planters Coley. I like them very much.

John


----------



## custard

Doris":2m0yvpde said:


> Some of this years reindeers. Made from mahogany this time and twice as big.



You manage to get so much movement and drama into your carving, simple little figurines but they're full of vitality. I exhibit furniture at a couple of county shows each year and get to see endless amateur wood carving, almost all of it is as dull as ditchwater, your stuff makes most of it look like firewood by comparison.


----------



## focusonwood

@Coley51...that planter at the back looks nice. My MiL is after a planter, I might try a similar style.

This weekend I finished off my firewood store;






I've since filled in the sides at the top, and I've realised I don't have as much wood as I thought it did.

(also...yes, I need to do some gardening).


----------



## Doris

custard":1xbtxxb6 said:


> Doris":1xbtxxb6 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of this years reindeers. Made from mahogany this time and twice as big.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You manage to get so much movement and drama into your carving, simple little figurines but they're full of vitality. I exhibit furniture at a couple of county shows each year and get to see endless amateur wood carving, almost all of it is as dull as ditchwater, your stuff makes most of it look like firewood by comparison.
Click to expand...


Wow thanks thats probably the best compliment I've ever received so far.  

What county shows do you go to? I noticed you're in the south east and was wondering if perhaps we may have crossed paths.


----------



## Alexam

Latest Bandsaw Box two drawers and secret drawer. Cut through with double quaver.


----------



## n0legs

Alexam":10kwymdi said:


> Latest Bandsaw Box two drawers and secret drawer. Cut through with double quaver.



That's very cool =D> 

:arrow: Coley, the hanging basket is genius =D>


----------



## mouppe

Can't remember the last thing I posted here, so here's a piece I finished recently. 

White oak nesting tables. Shellac and oil finish, with the carvings picked out in yellow ochre milk paint.


----------



## monkeybiter

I rather like those tables, very nice to see carved detail on the edge. What did you use to colour he Oak? [The main brown]


----------



## DTR

monkeybiter":7fmaud43 said:


> I rather like those tables, very nice to see carved detail on the edge. What did you use to colour he Oak? [The main brown]



+1, I like the carving


----------



## NazNomad

Last thing I made.


----------



## n0legs

DTR":3rhvbf1v said:


> monkeybiter":3rhvbf1v said:
> 
> 
> 
> I rather like those tables, very nice to see carved detail on the edge. What did you use to colour he Oak? [The main brown]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1, I like the carving
Click to expand...


And me  



NazNomad":3rhvbf1v said:


> Last thing I made.



Tell us more, interest has been piqued


----------



## Benchwayze

I like 'em too. A bit dark for my domicile as my lounge can be gloomy when the sun don't shine! 
They look just the ticket, and the carving lifts them too.

Nice work. 

Cheers


----------



## Benchwayze

NazNomad":dy0kux0t said:


> Last thing I made.


How do you get the key in Naz? :?:


----------



## mouppe

monkeybiter":2twuvrcv said:


> I rather like those tables, very nice to see carved detail on the edge. What did you use to colour he Oak? [The main brown]



Thank you. It's a dark walnut water-soluble dye from WD Lockwood. 

The tables are for a traditional library where all the furniture is quite dark, so hopefully these tables will suit the room. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Alexam

Coley, love those hanging baskets. A great idea.


----------



## ColeyS1

Thanks for the nice comments about the hanging basket  I had the colander for quite a while before I thought of how I could hang it. I've got a much smaller one that I'm trying to think of how to hang- kind of done the hammer thing now. Perhaps I should just pinch my work mates biggest chisel and drive that in the post 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## NazNomad

:lol: :lol: It's a replica of this ...


----------



## Lonsdale73

NazNomad":19ecz4ae said:


> :lol: :lol: It's a replica of this ...



Did you have too much to dream last night, a nightmare perhaps?


----------



## DTR

Haha, excellent Naz :lol:


----------



## Scottdimelow

Probably not the best place to show this kind of work, but I have used wood lol.

I'm currently converting a Ford Transit Luton into a campervan/motor home. I've recently removed the roller shutter door (can't believe the weight in it), and studded out a frame and skinned it with 12mm ply.

I'll just link to the blog rather than fill this page with pics 

http://www.myhousecanmove.com


----------



## ColeyS1

I got my phone all plumbed in the other night. 




It's a but odd having the camera recording all the time- especially going from the bathroom to bedroom morning and evening  
Future project will be converting some speakers into headphones to go on the other end of ...




That'll have to wait until Christmas has been and gone 
Coley 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## stuartpaul

Wouldn't it be nice, she said, to remove the built in wardrobes and have some freestanding ones so that when we move we can take them with us?

This ended up being a full suite of bedroom furniture so we have hanging space with drawers under together with a chest of drawers and two bedside cabinets (not pictured). Hanging part is separate from drawer base.

All made from 22mm MR MDF rails/stiles and 9mm MDF panels. Drawers 12mm birch ply on full extension runners.













The hardwood 'trim' and tops for the chest of drawers/bedside cabinets plus door knobs is recycled fire station doors (teak). We decided to leave some of the old mortise and tenon joints showing as a reminder of it's past. Have to say it's beautiful grain.


----------



## Cordy

stuartpaul 
First Class !!


----------



## NazNomad

I hate painting. It's close enough. 8)


----------



## Doris

Moose commission. Made from mahogany and walnut.


----------



## Zeddedhed

That Moose is the moosiest moose I've ever seen.

Superb =D> =D> =D> =D>


----------



## monkeybiter

Best yet, Doris.


----------



## Doris

Thanks chaps


----------



## xy mosian

I don't know just how, but you keep getting better and better. Great stuff.
xy


----------



## n0legs

Doris":2tbqkbc4 said:


> Moose commission. Made from mahogany and walnut.



There's a moose loose about your hoose :lol: 
Brilliant =D>


----------



## n0legs

NazNomad":1jojvcti said:


> I hate painting. It's close enough. 8)



Cool =D>


----------



## n0legs

ColeyS1":2p5eoyam said:


> I got my phone all plumbed in the other night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a but odd having the camera recording all the time- especially going from the bathroom to bedroom morning and evening
> Future project will be converting some speakers into headphones to go on the other end of ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That'll have to wait until Christmas has been and gone
> Coley
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk




That is brilliant =D> =D>


----------



## n0legs

stuartpaul":2pls5s78 said:


> .



This is gorgeous =D> =D> 
I've had to hide this from the good lady, I know where it'll lead #-o :lol:


----------



## DennisCA

That's some kickass furniture. I hope I can make something as nice someday.


----------



## gasman

My son's 21st birthday yesterday so we gave him, amongst other things, a 'treasure chest' full of important things from his young life - photos, certificates, sports trophies, favourite t shirts he had outgrown, the name tag from when he was born etc etc etc from when he was a kid. The oak was from an old kitchen - raised and fielded door panels from a solid oak kitchen set which someone had thrown out.








Initials and date engraved




Cheers Mark


----------



## mouppe

Nice one, Mark


----------



## JonnyW

This was my spring/summer project that I'd promised the kidos I build for them (6 & 3) - no beautiful dovetails required thankfully!!

They call it their tree house, but it's actually a 'beside' the tree house! It's well loved and well used; fully wind and water tight bar a couple of drafts through the stable doors).

Well fixed down due to our 'slightly' windy climate here in Shetland. Underneath is their sandpit I made a few years ago - it opens up into two seats.

I made a mistake during the jointing of the stable doors boards; I forgot to alternate the grain radials, so within a week outside in the sun (what little we had of it), it bent like a banana. I blame needing to get it finished and rushing and not thinking, but it was a school boy/day one/first page on how to join wood, error that really really annoyed me. The thing has settled albeit in a bent like state and it will remain like that. As my wife says, I will be the only person it'll annoy. I planed a bow in the internal stops top and bottom that also serve to keep the water out (using a lovely antique compass plane - god that things are amazing!).

The beside the tree house also serves as my 'dog house'.

Jonny


----------



## memzey

Awesome. Very well done!


----------



## Woodchips2

Well done Jonny =D> The kids should have years of fun with that.

Regards Keith


----------



## richarddownunder

Simple jewelry box from recycled Sapele bed head. I couldn't find a lid stay anywhere locally, so made one from a bit of brass which turned out OK I think and was easier than i thought it'd be (if anyone is interested in making one). Just needs a bit of felt to line the inside.











Rather like the way the wood glows in the sunshine! My daughters school-leaving present.


----------



## JonnyW

Nice job Richard. Well done. 

Jonny


----------



## Beau

Lovely little box there Richard.


----------



## n0legs

Very nice Richard =D>


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: JonnyW. That is awesome mate, I bet the kids are loving it
Well done =D> =D>


----------



## JonnyW

Thanks guys. Appreciated. 

Jonny


----------



## Doris

Some wooden poppies I turned on my lathe and then carved. Am hoping to sell them to raise money for the British Legion


----------



## richarddownunder

Thanks folks 

Cheers
Richard


----------



## John15

Really nice Richard. 

John


----------



## Woodchips2

Doris":22nvmbkv said:


> View attachment 11164007
> 
> 
> Some wooden poppies I turned on my lathe and then carved. Am hoping to sell them to raise money for the British Legion


 Well done Doris, they look lovely and great you are raising money for the British Legion =D> =D> =D> 

Regards Keith


----------



## blackrodd

Doris":5tqa6tio said:


> View attachment 11164007
> 
> 
> Some wooden poppies I turned on my lathe and then carved. Am hoping to sell them to raise money for the British Legion



Excellent again Doris! Very well done. 
Rodders


----------



## Doris

Thanks chaps


----------



## moosepig

My first go at making furniture of any sort (so be kind!) - some plywood drawer cabinets for my workshed (it's not big enough to be a shop!) to fit under the "workbench" I made a while back from recycled wood. Two identical cabinets side by side (I don't have room to make anything bigger in one go!)







Full extension drawers for maximum storage  The handles are made from recycled 2x4 offcuts and have grooves cut top and bottom for grip.






Only caught the woodwork bug last summer, quite pleased with how these turned out considering the cheapness of some of the tools used to create them. Also pleased with how much less clutter there is now that the drawers are full 

Although generally the biggest drawer would be at the bottom for the most pleasing aesthetic, I decided that the big drawers would most likely house the heaviest stuff and I'd rather not have to lift that up from almost floor level - hence the bottom drawers are slightly smaller than those above them. It seems to work so far despite looking a bit odd at first glance. Also the drawer fascias are cut from one contiguous sheet - even though it's only knotty Wickes plywood I like the effect 8)


----------



## Benchwayze

This puts my old bank of shop-drawers to shame Moose. At first glance I thought I was looking at a bedroom fitment! 

Nice one. 

Cheers


----------



## Adam9453

Benchwayze":2tgz0pit said:


> This puts my old bank of shop-drawers to shame Moose. At first glance I thought I was looking at a bedroom fitment!


+1 
They look very nice, its more pleasant to work in a nicely fitted out workshop I think. I do have to admit though that my workshop is far from glamorous right now. Second hand reclaimed plywood sheets for the interior wall boarding out complete with random splashed mud effect pattern is not exactly in vogue right now!!


----------



## blackrodd

Benchwayze":y1nsgjmp said:


> This puts my old bank of shop-drawers to shame Moose. At first glance I thought I was looking at a bedroom fitment!
> 
> Nice one.
> 
> Cheers



+1 More for the above, very well done!
Regards Rodders


----------



## moosepig

Thanks chaps! They look better in these photos than in real life, my rubbish phone camera has smoothed out all the rough bits. It's bare wood throughout and certainly looks like shop furniture close up


----------



## brianhabby

The ukulele was built from a kit and decorated by me. The box was made from scratch. It was my entry into the PimpMyUke contest organised by Age Cymru for Men's Sheds in Wales. I took overall best pimped ukulele prize and our group also took the cup for best band.


----------



## Adam9453

both the case and uke look superb brian, you should be suitably proud of those


----------



## Penny

My latest piece. I turned the base from a random log in my workshop and the colours stunned me once it was waxed. I then fitted the electrics and made the shade. Very pleased with it!


----------



## RogerP

So you should be, it's nice interesting piece and well made. Amazing what's lurking in the woodpile!


----------



## david123

Made a magnetic wooden knife holder to compliment some kitchen wall fittings I posted on the projects forum a while back. Quite simple to make using 3mm by 10mm rare earth magnets, fascinated my granddaughter, I told her it was made out of a magnet tree.

Sorry about the poor quality of the photographs.


----------



## gregmcateer

Nice one, Dave.
Do please enlighten your g'daughter at some point!


----------



## Bm101

gregmcateer":3iym0ex9 said:


> Nice one, Dave.
> Do please enlighten your g'daughter at some point!



Lol, never tell, always keep them guessing! They have the rest of their lives to live in a rational world where they have to get up and go to work. My boy is five and he has to do homework everyday. Surely that's not right! Nice knife rack btw, sorry if i'm wandering, it just made me laugh.  
God Bless Bill Watterson.


----------



## Doris

Just finished this trophy for a friend who's sun has just qualified as a tree surgeon.


----------



## david123

gregmcateer":65oo4gl4 said:


> Nice one, Dave.
> Do please enlighten your g'daughter at some point!



 of course I will.........soon

Like the cartoon, made me smile


----------



## david123

Doris":gms151hs said:


> Just finished this trophy for a friend who's sun has just qualified as a tree surgeon.



I like that lucky tree surgeon.


----------



## mouppe

I bought an 8lb maul head on Ebay for $11 and a big piece of hickory for $20. 

Several hours later, and after a good workout on the shavehorse with a drawknife, spokeshaves and a knife, I have a 34" handle to suit the axehead. If you haven't worked with hickory before, it's really really tough on power tools, but hand tools work very well on it. So apart from roughing out the blank on the bandsaw I worked it all by hand and loved every minute of it. 

The head was in fair shape and only needed a little work with a file. It's a maul, not an axe so sharpness is not desired or required.


----------



## memzey

Very nice - well done!


----------



## xraymtb

Very nicely done. I might need to add a shavehorse to my long list of projects! I've actually got a few axe heads lying around waiting for the day I get around to handling them.


----------



## Racers

Mike Bremner":1egnlzdb said:


> Very nicely done. I might need to add a shavehorse to my long list of projects! I've actually got a few axe heads lying around waiting for the day I get around to handling them.




I know its cheating but I bought an axe handle from Amazon, http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_ ... 1447098572

The quality was very good.

Pete


----------



## blackrodd

Doris":182a9pf9 said:


> Just finished this trophy for a friend who's sun has just qualified as a tree surgeon.



Another little gem, excellent detailing on the chainsaw too! A very nice item to have in you're display case.
Regards Rodders


----------



## mouppe

Racers":3sxrjhzp said:


> Mike Bremner":3sxrjhzp said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very nicely done. I might need to add a shavehorse to my long list of projects! I've actually got a few axe heads lying around waiting for the day I get around to handling them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know its cheating but I bought an axe handle from Amazon, http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_ ... 1447098572
> 
> The quality was very good.
> 
> Pete
Click to expand...


I had a look at a couple of handles in a store but the eye was so big on this axe head that none fitted so I had no choice but to DIY. 

Even the store bought ones need to be individually fitted so I don't think there is a big time difference to be honest.


----------



## Zeddedhed

Just finished and delivered this cabinet in Oak.







I have to say I'm not wildly enthusiastic about it. It was made for a friend who has a load of M&S furniture and wanted this cabinet to match. The M&S one was 100mm to long.

Not much fun copying someone else work but hey ho!! It was well paid.


----------



## blackrodd

Zeddedhed":2yfpp8g2 said:


> Just finished and delivered this cabinet in Oak.
> 
> 
> 
> I have to say I'm not wildly enthusiastic about it. It was made for a friend who has a load of M&S furniture and wanted this cabinet to match. The M&S one was 100mm to long.
> 
> Not much fun copying someone else work but hey ho!! It was well paid.



I see what you mean in style, but the craftsmanship's still there!
An excellent job, 
Any idea of hours at all? You should get A big Christmas card this year!
Rodders


----------



## Zeddedhed

Thanks for that Rodders.
I've just taken a proper look at the photo and it really doesn't do it any favours does it?
The boards actually match up much better than they look in terms of colour and grain - bad lighting and indifferent photography methinks.

Total hours would be approximately 18 or so to get it ready for finishing, then probably another 3 or 4 hours oiling (Osmo PolyX Clear Matt)

Too slow I know, but I find it easy to get distracted and go slow when I'm not enthusiastic about a project.


----------



## blackrodd

It's good to be able to appreciate the quality of workmanship in a design for others, it looks good, but it ain't pretty!
I've made stuff for others I don't like too, but I still try and do it well.
18 hours, or 2 days doesn't seem too long for that, and it's a one off!
Regards Rodders


----------



## JonnyD

Oak staircase just completed with glass inset panels 





Cheers 

Jon


----------



## blackrodd

Very nice, There's something special about oak, isn't there? And something different with the glass too!
What was the glazing requirement there to comply with building regs, was Toughened good enough?
Regards Rodders


----------



## JonnyD

blackrodd":2c076y4t said:


> Very nice, There's something special about oak, isn't there? And something different with the glass too!
> What was the glazing requirement there to comply with building regs, was Toughened good enough?
> Regards Rodders



Yes always makes a nice staircase oak I prefer the European variety. The glass is 10mm toughened heat soaked. I'm not sure what the heat soaking does but it was specced. All gaps to meet the less than 100mm sphere test, 
Cheers 

Jon


----------



## NazNomad

The Heat Soaking process is a method of reducing the incidence of spontaneous breakage in tempered glass caused by nickel sulphide. .... Apparently.


----------



## beganasatree

Nice one Jon,what is the finish?

Peter.


----------



## Phill joiner

JonnyD":2wpz727c said:


> Oak staircase just completed with glass inset panels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Jon


Very nice that Jon...... How did you hold the glass in place. I can see a groove...... Or did you make the slots the same size as the glass? Are they deeper in the handrail so you can lift the glass and drop into the bottom?


----------



## custard

Zeddedhed":2ixetskt said:


> Thanks for that Rodders.
> I've just taken a proper look at the photo and it really doesn't do it any favours does it?
> The boards actually match up much better than they look in terms of colour and grain - bad lighting and indifferent photography methinks.
> 
> Total hours would be approximately 18 or so to get it ready for finishing, then probably another 3 or 4 hours oiling (Osmo PolyX Clear Matt)
> 
> Too slow I know, but I find it easy to get distracted and go slow when I'm not enthusiastic about a project.



Nice, even shut lines, and 18 hours is none too shabby. Another vote for PolyX Clear Matt by the way (versus Satin or Gloss), I'm loving it on open grained timbers like Oak and Walnut, understated and elegant with a distinctively contemporary and professional look.


----------



## kentish steve

Zeddedhed":4mbe3nwt said:


> Just finished and delivered this cabinet in Oak.
> 
> 
> 
> I have to say I'm not wildly enthusiastic about it. It was made for a friend who has a load of M&S furniture and wanted this cabinet to match. The M&S one was 100mm to long.
> 
> Not much fun copying someone else work but hey ho!! It was well paid.




Not to my taste but great job


----------



## DennisCA

First thing I've made on a lathe, new chisel handle:


----------



## JonnyD

beganasatree":rjmwq7xc said:


> Nice one Jon,what is the finish?
> 
> Peter.



Hi peter it's finished in osmo polyx oil

Cheers

Jon


----------



## JonnyD

Phill joiner":1a55smnb said:


> JonnyD":1a55smnb said:
> 
> 
> 
> Oak staircase just completed with glass inset panels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Jon
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice that Jon...... How did you hold the glass in place. I can see a groove...... Or did you make the slots the same size as the glass? Are they deeper in the handrail so you can lift the glass and drop into the bottom?
Click to expand...


Hi Phil it's pretty much as you guessed a 10.75mm groove for 10mm glass . There is a deeper groove in the handrail to allow for getting them in . 



Cheers

Jon


----------



## Doris

Elephant, carved from oak, with birch tusks.


----------



## xy mosian

I cannot believe you have no responses to this fantastic Ostrich!
Seriously there you go again with a very, very good carving. 
The essence of an Elephant. Absolutely delightful, a fine example to all wood be carvers.

Thanks for showing just what can be done.
xy


----------



## Zeddedhed

I love the way it's front right foot is just lifting off the ground - it makes it appear to be on the move. Very clever and extremely elephantine. I wish I could carve.


----------



## Doris

xy mosian":21ucbh4r said:


> I cannot believe you have no responses to this fantastic Ostrich!
> Seriously there you go again with a very, very good carving.
> The essence of an Elephant. Absolutely delightful, a fine example to all wood be carvers.
> 
> Thanks for showing just what can be done.
> xy


Why thank you. 


Zeddedhed":21ucbh4r said:


> I love the way it's front right foot is just lifting off the ground - it makes it appear to be on the move. Very clever and extremely elephantine. I wish I could carve.



That was a bit unintentional. I had cut away from the mounting block a bit wider than what I should have done. You're the only person to have noticed it. Even I didn't see that one.

Funnily enough I documented the process on the carving of this one with stop motion. If anyone is interested in understanding how its done it can be seen here.

https://youtu.be/1ky1cbbv644

It's a pretty simple process to be honest.


----------



## Logger

Just finished this solid oak door. Customer was pleased.


----------



## Penny

I knew I was right to keep my scraps! This clock is made from:

Oak
Ash
Mahogany
Spalted Beech
Olive
Douglas Fir
Endgrain Pine
And some other bits I couldn't identify!


----------



## DennisCA

Made a marking gauge from walnut and arctic silver birch. Still need a blade for it.


----------



## Droogs

Nice looking gauge there Dennis


----------



## Racers

21st Febuary by Racers, on Flickr

Turned a few years ago and sanded and finished this after noon, silver birch burr.

Pete


----------



## Woodchips2

That is lovely Pete, well done =D> =D> =D> 

Regards Keith


----------



## John15

Very nice indeed Pete.

John


----------



## Racers

Thanks chaps.

Pete


----------



## n0legs

Very nice Pete =D>


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: DennisCa
That's a cracker =D>


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Penny
Fairplay that's lovely =D>


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Doris
Once again a gorgeous piece =D>


----------



## Crispier

Zeddedhed":20sm2yf4 said:


> Just finished and delivered this cabinet in Oak.
> 
> 
> 
> I have to say I'm not wildly enthusiastic about it. It was made for a friend who has a load of M&S furniture and wanted this cabinet to match. The M&S one was 100mm to long.
> 
> Not much fun copying someone else work but hey ho!! It was well paid.




Really nice, I've just started making furniture and I wish mine looked as perfect as that. Is it possible to have a look at it top, back and sides? I may try to copy it if that's OK with you?


----------



## Zeddedhed

Crispier":144mda2z said:


> Zeddedhed":144mda2z said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished and delivered this cabinet in Oak.
> 
> 
> 
> I have to say I'm not wildly enthusiastic about it. It was made for a friend who has a load of M&S furniture and wanted this cabinet to match. The M&S one was 100mm to long.
> 
> Not much fun copying someone else work but hey ho!! It was well paid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really nice, I've just started making furniture and I wish mine looked as perfect as that. Is it possible to have a look at it top, back and sides? I may try to copy it if that's OK with you?
Click to expand...




Thats for your comments.

It's fine with me if you copy it. I copied from M&S as the post said. I'm afraid I didn't take any other pictures and the furniture is now with it's new owner. Have a look here if you want to have a go at copying one (that's what I did)

http://www.marksandspencer.com/sonoma-l ... /p22153344


----------



## 8squared

Had an afternoon of painting some Christmas present decorations... I say painting but the kids just made a mess.


----------



## Austinisgreat

Racers":166vwa1v said:


> 21st Febuary by Racers, on Flickr
> 
> Turned a few years ago and sanded and finished this after noon, silver birch burr.
> 
> Pete


Lovely Pete.

Cheers (from someone who hopes to learn woodturning soon),


Andrew


----------



## Golden Hands

Hi guys,
Here is my latest piece (hammer)
Well not very latest but kinda recent ish 
It is an auctioneer personalised gavel, a commissioned piece.


----------



## monkeybiter

Very nice! Well made and looks the part. On closer inspection of the inlay [i.e. the end] did you make individual staves for the barrel?


----------



## badabec

Citroen H van bandsaw box made from Wenge, Baltic Birch plywood and Walnut, with Cherry drawer knobs in the shape of an H van


----------



## n0legs

badabec":1nq4g8tt said:


> Citroen H van bandsaw box made from Wenge, Baltic Birch plywood and Walnut, with Cherry drawer knobs in the shape of an H van



Cool


----------



## Londoner100

Just a couple of boxes













Sorry having trouble posting photos

Mod edit:- Image links changed.

Many thanks to the mods for the help with the image links :lol:


----------



## italiantools

Very nice!!! I want it!!!


----------



## bobblezard

Not much, but satisfying nonetheless...


----------



## davin

Traditional it ain't, but my kids liked it.
Shelving unit in Birch ply, laminated mdf and formica.
(hope it doesn't offend the more conservative members! I do make traditional furniture but it doesn't excite me as much as making something new, even if it doesn't work !)


----------



## monkeybiter

I like that, different and still very useful. But pink?


----------



## Zeddedhed

bobblezard":2mzjcpcx said:


> Not much, but satisfying nonetheless...



Gates are good. I like gates. Thats a nice one.


----------



## custard

davin":35r1623n said:


> Traditional it ain't, but my kids liked it.



Your kids like it, and I like it too! Very innovative and nicely executed, how did you set about the laminated curves?


----------



## blackrodd

davin":2faki9ym said:


> Traditional it ain't, but my kids liked it.
> Shelving unit in Birch ply, laminated mdf and formica.
> (hope it doesn't offend the more conservative members! I do make traditional furniture but it doesn't excite me as much as making something new, even if it doesn't work !)
> 
> View attachment 12240057



Nicely different, bet the kids DID love that!
That would have made a good WIP
Rodders


----------



## blackrodd

bobblezard":7g1j6y1s said:


> Not much, but satisfying nonetheless...




Gates are good! I like gates too, I can't see if you remembered to turn the top hinge pin upside down,
Stop someone nicking you're P&J! 
Rodders


----------



## Doris

davin":e8zauna9 said:


> Traditional it ain't, but my kids liked it.
> Shelving unit in Birch ply, laminated mdf and formica.
> (hope it doesn't offend the more conservative members! I do make traditional furniture but it doesn't excite me as much as making something new, even if it doesn't work !)
> 
> View attachment 12240057



How did you create that bend from mdf?


----------



## monkeybiter

A gate for my son, looks very blotchy in the photo's, not as bad to the naked eye.


----------



## blackrodd

Nice job on the gate, The swept head makes a nice difference to be noticed.
I was taught that the bracing would be best and strongest mortice and pegged in to the swept head centre,
and mortice and pegged into the bottom of the stiles in an inverted vee.
That's a pretty strong gate there, perhaps it's a regional thing, this bracing preference.
Regards Rodders


----------



## monkeybiter

Thanks  
The bracing is rebated in to the head, but just a tight fit in the corner of the mortice and tenon at the bottom end, which I reckoned would be plenty strong enough. There is a screw sitting in a deep counterbore at each end just to prevent it wandering sideways. There aren't any other screws, apart from the hinges. It's not a regional thing so much as a trained or not trained thing.

The swept head was done simply by bandsawing the concave underside then glueing the offcut to the top to give a matching curve. I used TB3 so hopefully it will stay put.


----------



## DennisCA

Small end grain cutting board:


----------



## monkeybiter

Gorgeous! I want to pick it up [hope that doesn't sound weird!]


----------



## custard

monkeybiter":20jq93bt said:


> The swept head was done simply by bandsawing the concave underside then glueing the offcut to the top to give a matching curve.



Very nice touch, bet that made you pay attention while you were bandsawing, no humming along to the radio during that manoeuvre!


----------



## davin

How did you create that bend from mdf?"

Sorry for delay in response. I made a former for this hallway storage cupboard, used 1,5mm birch ply. loads of cramps and did a few at a time,

Seeing as I had the former I thought I would make the shelf unit. Using the birch ply would have been expensive so I used 2mm MDF (great stuff and £10 a sheet) used cascamite glue, The shelves are so strong you could stand on them.

Had the pleasure of fitting an external Howdens softwood ledge and braced door today, what rubbish. After looking at those gates the customer should have commissioned you to make the door.....


----------



## John15

Very nice gate Mike. I like the curved top very much. 

John


----------



## blackrodd

monkeybiter":jjci6unn said:


> Thanks
> The bracing is rebated in to the head, but just a tight fit in the corner of the mortice and tenon at the bottom end, which I reckoned would be plenty strong enough. There is a screw sitting in a deep counterbore at each end just to prevent it wandering sideways. There aren't any other screws, apart from the hinges. It's not a regional thing so much as a trained or not trained thing.
> 
> The swept head was done simply by bandsawing the concave underside then glueing the offcut to the top to give a matching curve. I used TB3 so hopefully it will stay put.



Yes, that swept head planted on top, a job well done, The same principle applies on many curved rails with no waste.
works well on even a 10' Monet style bridge, I've made several round here.
Rodders


----------



## monkeybiter

blackrodd":2lwr6pyp said:


> same principle applies on many curved rails with no waste.
> works well on even a 10' Monet style bridge, I've made several round here.
> Rodders



I'm intrigued, maybe your turn to post a piccy?


----------



## blackrodd

I'm afraid my computor skills are not good enough for posting pics.
Using 12"x 4"x 10' from the wood yard, or carefully laminate some better 4"x 4" treated posts you're self
The monet bridge base is formed by bandsawing a 4" sweep from the middle 2/3rds of each side, and glued and rag bolted on top,
ending up with 500mm flat each end for foundation/fixing, and a 2 meter sweep, same principle as the gate rail above, the offcut top mirrors the sweep below.
Rodders


----------



## Jmac80

Quick oak mirror i made for the wife, American white oak oiled in osmo poly-X satin clear.
Wife points are building up nicely.


----------



## sitefive

Jmac80":1gmokeio said:


> Quick oak mirror i made for the wife, American white oak oiled in osmo poly-X satin clear.
> Wife points are building up nicely.



that's a sweet mirror!
Just out of interest where did you got the glass for the mirror itself?


----------



## Jmac80

sitefive":37hxfq6b said:


> Jmac80":37hxfq6b said:
> 
> 
> 
> Quick oak mirror i made for the wife, American white oak oiled in osmo poly-X satin clear.
> Wife points are building up nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's a sweet mirror!
> Just out of interest where did you got the glass for the mirror itself?
Click to expand...


Thanks :mrgreen: 
The glass is from the old mirror that used to live there 
About 15 years ago Tesco were selling wooden mirrors for £10 each and we bought a few of them, It had a horrid yellow pine frame with huge gaps in the mitred corners.

Cheers.


----------



## 8squared

Started painting a secret Santa gift... Can't wait to hear of the recipients surprise.


----------



## 8squared

Had a little scrap that i was going to through out till I decided to make this... The missus liked it so now I've got three more to make that will be sat on a wooden tray... Pics to follow.


----------



## 8squared

Three diamond tea light candle holders made from maple and sapele sat on a maple tray.

The holders are angled at 45 degrees then glued into recesses I chiselled out... Could probably of been done better, but it was just an idea and was made with scraps I had.

I don't think I'll be doing them again.


Pics to follow


----------



## flanajb

A desk lamp using concrete for base and top lamp mount and a laminated ply arm.


----------



## Beau

Nicely done. 

How do you cast the concrete so neatly?


----------



## flanajb

Beau":636cylly said:


> Nicely done.
> 
> How do you cast the concrete so neatly?



Thanks.

It's poured into a rubber mold and then vibrated to remove as many air bubble as possible. When I say concrete, that's slightly misleading. It's actually called GFRC (glass fibre reinforced concrete).


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: flanajb, that's a cool lamp. 
Love the flex, classy =D>


----------



## custard

flanajb":369pjrzz said:


> Beau":369pjrzz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nicely done.
> 
> How do you cast the concrete so neatly?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> It's poured into a rubber mold and then vibrated to remove as many air bubble as possible. When I say concrete, that's slightly misleading. It's actually called GFRC (glass fibre reinforced concrete).
Click to expand...


Fantastic!

Concrete and wood...how cool is that!


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

That lamp is a lovely, lovely bit of design (and beautifully made too). Very nice indeed.


----------



## beganasatree

I like it ,how did you fix the wood to the concrete??


Peter.


----------



## flanajb

Thanks for the thumbs up! 

I used epoxy to bond the wood to the concrete.


----------



## custard

I've looked again at your project Flanajb and you really are to be congratulated, it's a stunning piece of design! 

Can you tell us more about the moulds, did you make them and if so how?


----------



## stuartpaul

custard":tdhx39xv said:


> flanajb":tdhx39xv said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beau":tdhx39xv said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nicely done.
> 
> How do you cast the concrete so neatly?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> It's poured into a rubber mold and then vibrated to remove as many air bubble as possible. When I say concrete, that's slightly misleading. It's actually called GFRC (glass fibre reinforced concrete).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Fantastic!
> 
> Concrete and wood...how cool is that!
Click to expand...

+1

Understated but really neat. I like that a lot!


----------



## blackrodd

flanajb":2eqjxkwa said:


> A desk lamp using concrete for base and top lamp mount and a laminated ply arm.



Very clever design, and just that little bit different!
Can you say where the inspiration for this lamp came from?
Regards Rodders


----------



## lurker

Sporky McGuffin":1qef7mxm said:


> That lamp is a lovely, lovely bit of design (and beautifully made too). Very nice indeed.



+1


----------



## Tim_H

Three things, one a work in progress:

A workbench for my lathe







Dust collection for small projects, like pen turning, which works really well.






My first turned pens, European style twist pens in oak and sapele and a slimline in oak, finished with CA glue. I have a way to go but I will have fun getting there!


----------



## DennisCA

A french rolling pin in oak, finished with linseed oil and then a linseed oil and wax combo I made myself:


----------



## stuartpaul

Tim_H":3ocjz4o3 said:


> .......
> I have a way to go but I will have fun getting there!
> ........



Ain't that the truth. When the fun stops so will I.


----------



## NazNomad

Some rotten 4x4 fence posts, random pallet wood and a donated pine wardrobe = new scroll saw stand.

There's no such thing as scrap wood.
_
Used the plan by Kenneth Van Winkle._


----------



## 8squared

I've made bench hooks before in different shapes and sizes as and when I need one, they're normally in scrap pine and thrown out once done with.

So I made one to keep, not being able to choose what length I decided to make an adjustable one for small medium or long pieces.

Made from sapele.


----------



## Woodchips2

NazNomad":2d5bi8s5 said:


> Some rotten 4x4 fence posts, random pallet wood and a donated pine wardrobe = new scroll saw stand.
> 
> There's no such thing as scrap wood.
> _
> Used the plan by Kenneth Van Winkle._


That's a very solid scrollsaw stand. Well done for recycling =D> =D> =D> 

Regards Keith


----------



## brianhabby

8squared":q5x1zvsj said:


> I've made bench hooks before in different shapes and sizes as and when I need one, they're normally in scrap pine and thrown out once done with.
> 
> So I made one to keep, not being able to choose what length I decided to make an adjustable one for small medium or long pieces.
> 
> Made from sapele.


I like the idea of the adjustable one, also that small piece can be used as a support when cutting longer lengths.

regards

Brian


----------



## beganasatree

Hi NazNomad,
that is a nice looking table,your comment (there is no such thing as scrap wood) is the answer that I gave to my son, some 25 years ago.He asked if I had any old scrap wood that I did not need.I told him that once it had been put through the saw ect, it was all good wood under the dirt.It is something that he has never forgotten.

Peter.


----------



## NazNomad

I put those posts in 14 years ago. Dug 'em out last week because you could put your arm down the centre about 18'' due to rot., jet-washed the crud off them, chopped to length, planed, sanded ... new 4x4s at just the length I needed.

Most people would have bonfired those ... heathens.


.. oh yeah, and the family across the road got 2 sacks of firewood for nothing from the offcuts.


----------



## condeesteso

Something for a change (for me). I am absolutely not a plane maker, but I'd wanted a mid-size shooter for ages and I knew just what size, weight etc I fancied. So from the spare bits bin I made a very simple quick one. I didn't time it but I'd guess 4 hours max, excluding prepping the unflat Herring iron which took a while.
Just made a quick shooting board for it and am testing - so far very promising but I will be replacing the ebony wedge with something else because I don't think it's locking too well. The plane makers have nothing to fear from me


----------



## Racers

Looks nice Douglas, what angle is the wedge? sounds like its too steep if its not locking, try 6-7 degrees.

Pete


----------



## condeesteso

Hi Pete, I made the wedge (ebony) 6 degrees. I checked 2 woodies and got around 8-9 degrees (if I measured right). I had bedded the iron to the body (camelia oil, ground file as scraper a la Bill Carter), I may need to do the same with the wedge to upper iron face. The bridge is just 1/2" round brass (no flat under, lazy!). Part of the issue is how hard dare I tap the wedge in, as the brass is interference into maple which is only 8mm thick, it is epoxied but that is irellevant given loads around the bar/maple joint. I shall play a bit more.


----------



## Racers

Mmmm, might be its too hard and slippy a flat would help I think, there is a lot of meat above the pin so a bit of welly with the mallet might do the trick.

Pete


----------



## DennisCA

Another cutting board. This one's a long grain board with european ash & walnut. Currently soaking in raw linseed oil:






Shallow feet in a sliding dovetail:





Have made a oil-beeswax-carnauba combo that I will finish it with later.


----------



## condeesteso

Nice combination of woods and the dovetailed cross is neat. What oil are you using, I want to mix a bit of this stuff up and try it?


----------



## DennisCA

Thanks, it's also raw linseed oil I use for the combo, you can also use mineral oil instead if you like, or tung oil.


----------



## davin

I like the foot detail. Also helps to keep it flat ?


----------



## Chip shop

A bit boring, but it is the last thing I made. Replacement horizontal sliding sash.


----------



## condeesteso

Not boring at all. Fewer and fewer craftsmen capable of doing this kind of work properly these days. I suppose because sashes are fading out of use, the makers have been too. Richard Arnold (who appears here sometimes) is one of the very few in England and he's almost famous


----------



## ED65

condeesteso":1i7qszh7 said:


> The plane makers have nothing to fear from me


Well I love how it looks!

About your locking problems, I think the wedge being so hard may be part of it but I think the main issue is the pin is a bit low.


----------



## Chip shop

condeesteso":phy2nxfb said:


> Not boring at all. Fewer and fewer craftsmen capable of doing this kind of work properly these days. I suppose because sashes are fading out of use, the makers have been too. Richard Arnold (who appears here sometimes) is one of the very few in England and he's almost famous



Yeah, lots of the smaller joinery shops that'd do one-offs are disappearing. The bigger firms, around my neck of the woods, seem to be tied into window 'systems' and would probably shy away from this sort of work. Having said that, a gander around this and a few other forums reveals a number of smallish outfits that are turning out high level purpose-made stuff (much better than mine) so maybe all is not lost.

Anyhow; just found out that the frame for this sash is shot, so I'm about to start that. I'll do a WIP if anyone is interested...and I remember to take pictures!


----------



## RogerP

Chip shop":1ix98zxi said:


> .......Anyhow; just found out that the frame for this sash is shot, so I'm about to start that. I'll do a WIP if anyone is interested...and I remember to take pictures!


Yes please


----------



## wwade

Was so fed up of not having enough storage space in our house for bags, shoes I built a box for the kitchen. Throw everything inside, close the lid and forget about it. 

I have done a bit of woodwork in the past but nothing ever this big. I'm a beginner and this was a good learning curve for me. For future reference I will make sure not to apply so much glue as it was a pain to sand and scrape off, same for the pencil markings, and finally not to varnish the inside and make sure to measure properly as I messed up on the lid and had to add a piece.


----------



## monkeybiter

Nice box, and welcome.

I've found unwanted pencil marks disappear best/quickest with a swift rub from a wetted finger tip.


----------



## Penny

A clock made of a range of different offcuts/scrap.


----------



## brianhabby

Penny":leq04dja said:


> A clock made of a range of different offcuts/scrap.
> View attachment 12391317


That, I really like 

regards

Brian


----------



## brianhabby

wwade":xku8rqsc said:


> Was so fed up of not having enough storage space in our house for bags, shoes I built a box for the kitchen. Throw everything inside, close the lid and forget about it.
> 
> I have done a bit of woodwork in the past but nothing ever this big. I'm a beginner and this was a good learning curve for me. For future reference I will make sure not to apply so much glue as it was a pain to sand and scrape off, same for the pencil markings, and finally not to varnish the inside and make sure to measure properly as I messed up on the lid and had to add a piece.


I keep a good old fashioned pencil rubber in the workshop and rub out all the pencil lines before I start sanding.

HTH

Regards

Brian


----------



## beganasatree

Hi Chip Shop,
It is good to know that some one can still use the old methods,I am retired now and the last time that I made a BOX SASH WINDOW JOINT was for a test during my apprenticeship (all hand tools in them days)and have not made another one since.The other joint that has stuck in the memory was the WEDGED SCARF JOINT and it was never used until 5 years ago.

Peter.


----------



## ED65

wwade":ysl82vhg said:


> For future reference I will make sure not to apply so much glue as it was a pain to sand and scrape off


In a lot of situations I'd recommend not waiting for the glue to dry on the surface and then trying to remove it, that risks the dreaded pale glue spots come finishing time. This is okay on a panel glue-up where you'll be taking the surface down a bit anyway, but around M&T joints or anything like that it can be very difficult to remove all trace of the glue contamination once it has dried.

Wiping up with damp cloths isn't perfect since you'll get raised grain, but that's far easier to solve than glue spots. Another very good method is to protect surfaces around the joint with tape, so that the glue doesn't get on the wood in the first place.



wwade":ysl82vhg said:


> same for the pencil markings


Another excellent use for a scraper 

Attractive box you made there, nicely done!


----------



## Doris

Oak Dragon with walnut wings for my friend as a Christmas Present. 

A sort of self portrait of her as a dragon as she's always playing with her phone and they are her favourite creature.


----------



## Jmac80

Tall stair gate for our house to keep the wee one safe 











A shame it's pine as it would look sweet in oak


----------



## memzey

Very nice James! What hardware are you using for it?


----------



## Jmac80

Thanks memzey
That I'm not sure of yet, need to have a look on some websites later, any ideas?
Maybe normal chrome door hinges though?


----------



## woodfarmer

This was very nearly the last thing I made. 12 hours later I was having a heart attack. After three weeks in hospita two of which in intensive care plus a couple of stents I am now out. Not so sprightly now


----------



## memzey

Jmac80":3w596jky said:


> Thanks memzey
> That I'm not sure of yet, need to have a look on some websites later, any ideas?
> Maybe normal chrome door hinges though?


I was thinking about the locking mechanism as the better stair gates I've seen tend to have a lift to lock and unlock action. I suppose you might need special hinges for that as well with some vertical give. I've never seen the hardware for these gates and as we have a 1 year old I'd like to find out as well!


----------



## Woodchips2

Well done 'Woodfarmer', that has some lovely grain in it =D> 

Sorry to hear about your heart attack, hope you are feeling better.

Regards Keith


----------



## AndyT

memzey":3jtd43d1 said:


> Jmac80":3jtd43d1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks memzey
> That I'm not sure of yet, need to have a look on some websites later, any ideas?
> Maybe normal chrome door hinges though?
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about the locking mechanism as the better stair gates I've seen tend to have a lift to lock and unlock action. I suppose you might need special hinges for that as well with some vertical give. I've never seen the hardware for these gates and as we have a 1 year old I'd like to find out as well!
Click to expand...


I had to make a bespoke one some years ago - I hinged the gate on vertical metal rods which also allowed it to lift then swing, and used a sash window fastener as a catch which was just stiff enough to be difficult for tiny fingers. It worked fine while it was needed.


----------



## n0legs

Doris":d6hs9e1f said:


> Oak Dragon with walnut wings for my friend as a Christmas Present.
> 
> A sort of self portrait of her as a dragon as she's always playing with her phone and they are her favourite creature.




Now these I really like  =D> 

N0legs the forum Welsh Nationalist :lol:


----------



## n0legs

Penny":2d0xvf6m said:


> A clock made of a range of different offcuts/scrap.
> View attachment 12391317




Cool =D>


----------



## n0legs

Jmac80":3gt2pqd0 said:


> Tall stair gate for our house to keep the wee one safe
> 
> A shame it's pine as it would look sweet in oak




Nowt wrong with that. Looks good and most of all will keep the little one safe =D>


----------



## n0legs

woodfarmer":1wdo25l1 said:


> Not so sprightly now




This ain't no race, take your time :wink: 
Good bowl =D>


----------



## spiderlane

Bunk bed book shelves for my nephew's for Christmas.







Cheers
Mark


----------



## NazNomad

Just getting used to my new Delta ...


----------



## Woodchips2

spiderlane":dosr6tbq said:


> Bunk bed book shelves for my nephew's for Christmas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> Mark


Well done Mark, nice personalised gifts. =D> =D> 

Regards Keith


----------



## 8squared

My first furniture build... And not a very good one.

Tried mortise and tenons in pine but it was a mess so just stuck to pocket holes... Even so it's out of square on every axis.



Made from Sapele and Oak... The top will be oak too.



















And some candle holders


Beech and Unknown.







Walnut and Maple.


----------



## n0legs

8squared":2d70hy2e said:


> My first furniture build... And not a very good one.
> 
> Tried mortise and tenons in pine but it was a mess so just stuck to pocket holes... Even so it's out of square on every axis.




Most of us wouldn't post pics of our first attempts.
Don't you worry about it mate, fair play for having the balls to post it. Anyway, it don't look bad for a first time =D> 
Like my Grandfather would say "those that do nothing are the only ones who don't f*** up", and he was a wise man :wink:


----------



## davin

Very true. 
I find the simplest things are the hardest to make. Lots of fancy mouldings and details hide the mistakes,...
better to make something and learn from it than not attempt to make it at all.


----------



## themackay

Made this at the weekend either spalted chestnut or Sycamore


----------



## WoodMangler

This is a tractor and trailer for my 4 year old grand-daughter, finished just in time for Xmas :ho2 . It's about 13" long overall, made of sycamore. There are no fasteners of any kind, it's just wood, glue and paint - and yes, the wheels do go round  .


----------



## NazNomad

I live in rural Wales and I've never seen a tractor that shiny before, it looks great.


----------



## WoodMangler

NazNomad":n4mag63m said:


> I live in rural Wales and I've never seen a tractor that shiny before, it looks great.


Thanks, and seen only at vintage shows  . I suspect we're not far apart, I'm near Lampeter.


----------



## beganasatree

Hi Themackay,
What wood is the bowl made from.??

Peter.


----------



## NazNomad

WoodMangler":ey8flr0i said:


> NazNomad":ey8flr0i said:
> 
> 
> 
> I live in rural Wales and I've never seen a tractor that shiny before, it looks great.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, and seen only at vintage shows  . I suspect we're not far apart, I'm near Lampeter.
Click to expand...


Bronant.


----------



## WoodMangler

Taken to PM to avoid a derail


----------



## NazNomad

Playing with the Delta again.


----------



## JSW

Very nice! I know next to nothing about scroll saws, are the facial features etc actually cuts?


----------



## NazNomad

JSW":2ar0llb5 said:


> Very nice! I know next to nothing about scroll saws, are the facial features etc actually cuts?



Yes, every line is a saw cut (apart from the dark bit at the top of the front leg, that was a void in the rubbish ply I was using) :-D


----------



## JSW

Thanks for the reply, now I want a scroll saw, are Screwfix still open I wonder?

Merry Christmas all!


----------



## n0legs

NazNomad":21ix7ekr said:


> Playing with the Delta again.




That's cool =D>


----------



## morfa

The various christmas presents before being dispatched:






Naz & Woodmangler - I went to uni at Lampeter, quite a few of my mates still live in the area.


----------



## blackrodd

WoodMangler":2o21gybs said:


> This is a tractor and trailer for my 4 year old grand-daughter, finished just in time for Xmas :ho2 . It's about 13" long overall, made of sycamore. There are no fasteners of any kind, it's just wood, glue and paint - and yes, the wheels do go round  .



Just seen this cracking Tractor and trailer, for a very lucky young lady indeedy.
This would make an excellent WIP, and the "paint job"is literally brilliant
Thanks for sharing
Rodders


----------



## tinytim1458

Here is the last thing I made. 
largish minecraft crafting tables ( boxes).
one raj for my boys and one for their friend.
Ideal for putting their minecraft items in. 
used veneer for all the outsides and top. 
lined inside at the bottom and the outside bottomc with felt, so it does not make any noise when using it, save me having to veneer the bottom as well.
the size outside was 20mm x 20mm so a good size to put things in. 
they took ages as I was making them at the local mens shed at first which was only one day a wheel.
the last couple of weeks I took home as it would not have been finished on time. 
I tried various methods of making them which also slowed things down a bit.
worth the time spent on making them and experimenting as it gave me ideas on how long it takes, ways of making them, how to finish them and what finish to use. Hope you like.

Thanks Tim


----------



## n0legs

morfa":26ptm2k6 said:


> The various christmas presents before being dispatched:
> 
> View attachment 2015
> 
> 
> Naz & Woodmangler - I went to uni at Lampeter, quite a few of my mates still live in the area.




Looking good =D>


----------



## n0legs

tinytim1458":23ne8uav said:


> Here is the last thing I made.
> largish minecraft crafting tables ( boxes).
> one raj for my boys and one for their friend.
> Ideal for putting their minecraft items in.
> used veneer for all the outsides and top.
> lined inside at the bottom and the outside bottomc with felt, so it does not make any noise when using it, save me having to veneer the bottom as well.
> the size outside was 20mm x 20mm so a good size to put things in.
> they took ages as I was making them at the local mens shed at first which was only one day a wheel.
> the last couple of weeks I took home as it would not have been finished on time.
> I tried various methods of making them which also slowed things down a bit.
> worth the time spent on making them and experimenting as it gave me ideas on how long it takes, ways of making them, how to finish them and what finish to use. Hope you like.
> 
> Thanks Tim



I have no idea about Minecraft but I do like those =D>


----------



## DennisCA

Made a disk sander attachment for the lathe today, with that I tried shaping some wood and I ended up with a tape roll holder. I think it's cute, much nicer than those plasticky crappy things you get in stores:


----------



## monkeybiter

DennisCA":292hfk4t said:


> I think it's cute, much nicer than those plasticky crappy things you get in stores



You think right. Nicely made.


----------



## mseries

Been a very long time since I posted something I have made, that's because I haven't had much time lately and it's been too cold outside. I finally got round to finishing this cat. I used a scrollsaw pattern that PeteG directed me to but used my bandsaw and hand coping saw to cut it.


Band saw cat by MSeries, on Flickr

Then spent a long time fettling a No 4 and just planing for the hell of it.


----------



## NazNomad

An old headboard from the tip is now a new pedalboard.


----------



## Doris

A pair of large F Clamps I re-handled for the old man for his Christmas present.


----------



## NazNomad

Given my sarcasm in a recent post, I invite everyone to please rip my latest creation to shreds.

Ok, I lack the confidence to try and sell it for a small fortune, but I suppose I should try?

If you don't ask, you don't get, am I right?


----------



## WoodMangler

Just made this egg-timer in spalted beech, about 6" tall, finished with microcrystalline wax.

_(it's sitting on an upturned wine-glass btw)_


----------



## Bm101

Not so much made as making. Sloooowly. After I messed cutting the end of my bench up by relying on the circular saw to give an accurate 0" cut, I did it again. And Again. Bench is now 2" shorter but with square ends. Lesson learned. Finished with my new Japanese saw. Some adjustments, get rid of the fore finger point and tuck the handle into the elbow. Adjust the feet. Thanks for the Christmas press Mum! So I cut the _new_ reveal for the record and it holds the vice with no fixings. There's tight and there's bridesmaids dress tight! 
It's in b/w cos I'm so posh and by that point i was on the cider. One dayI'll actually get time to finish this but it was A Good Day. Lots learned.


----------



## Lons

Turned this bowl, had a couple of coats of danish oil so the finish will improve over the next couple of weeks with further applications.

Bob


----------



## John15

Beautiful bowl Bob. What wood is it?

John


----------



## monkeybiter

That's gorgeous Bob!


----------



## Lons

thanks guys, the missus loves it so plenty of brownie points. It's burr elm


----------



## monkeybiter

Been quite an unproductive week off work, despite the great temperatures, just can't stay asleep long enough and always exhausted. 
So, as I'm back at work tomorrow I thought I'd better achieve something no matter how trivial. 
Finally got around to making a couple of long wanted jigs for the table saw:-










They're not pretty, because they're not supposed to be, but the dimensions [including angles] are bang on and they'll save a lot of setting-up time in the future [when I'm awake enough to make something :roll: ]


----------



## woodfarmer

BOB, that bowl is absolutely beautiful.


----------



## Lons

Thanks woodfarmer

My wife says it's the nicest thing I've ever made for her. I'm not sure I ever said "_this is for you darling_" but I'm too much of a coward to argue. :lol:


----------



## woodfarmer

Lons":nchfxfwl said:


> Thanks woodfarmer
> 
> My wife says it's the nicest thing I've ever made for her. I'm not sure I ever said "_this is for you darling_" but I'm too much of a coward to argue. :lol:



I understand. my wife tends to take possession of most of the bowls I make. Having enough spare to give to friends is not easy the best way seems to be to tell her the bowl is for xxxx before I start. Often though I just follow the wood so end up with something unexpected and still have to get past the wife


----------



## Cordy

Red Mouse
Hull is Eucalyptus; sail, spars and pennant are oak


----------



## DTR

Like it!


----------



## n0legs

DTR":rgb9rwmk said:


> Like it!



+1  
Where's he going on that boat I wonder? I don't think he needs any sun, he looks like a lobster already.
Do mice get sea sick??


----------



## Cordy

Red Mouse is the scourge of Wigan Canal !!

Lacing is Aluminium welding wire btw


----------



## Penny

My first attempt at a bowl:


----------



## monkeybiter

Well that's attractive! Spalted timber can be difficult to get a decent finish on, so you should be very pleased with that as a first attempt.


----------



## John15

Very attrative bowl Penny

John


----------



## DennisCA

Refurbished an old axe, one handed for kindling making. I don't know what the brand was, probably swedish with an ugly red color on the head and epoxy holding it in. I wasn't able to get as good a fit as I wanted with the head because the inside is like an inverted dovetail, sorta like this ><. I think it wasn't made to take a traditional wedge type handle. But oh well it seems in there good enough.











Woops had mixed in some other language there.


----------



## mseries

I got this rigged up today. The hose is an old one from the previous Draper vac, the drum is an old tile cement tub that's been in my garage for about 16 years, I knew it would come in handy some day. Stiffened the lid with a disc of ply, It's temporary until I can get something bigger. I made some MDF reducing collars and some pieces of steel/plastic tube from the vacuum tools to attached the hoses. Needs a bit of epoxy or silicon to secure the fitting and seal any gaps but it worked well on the first test..


Cyclone separator by Mseries, on Flickr


----------



## n0legs

Penny":of72rxtp said:


> My first attempt at a bowl:
> 
> View attachment 12509235




Cool, don't let it be the last one :wink: =D>


----------



## n0legs

mseries":3sxbw7f7 said:


> I got this rigged up today. The hose is an old one from the previous Draper vac, the drum is an old tile cement tub that's been in my garage for about 16 years, I knew it would come in handy some day. Stiffened the lid with a disc of ply, It's temporary until I can get something bigger. I made some MDF reducing collars and some pieces of steel/plastic tube from the vacuum tools to attached the hoses. Needs a bit of epoxy or silicon to secure the fitting and seal any gaps but it worked well on the first test..
> 
> 
> Cyclone separator by Mseries, on Flickr




Looks good =D>


----------



## mouppe

Almost completed, just the final clean-up of glue joints and chamfers and then the oiled finish to go. I've had the glass tops custom-made and these end tables are ready for delivery. 

Definitely the most unforgiving pieces I've ever made- all the circles, mitres and corners had to be near-perfect as any errors would be very visible- but I'm pleased (and relieved) with how they turned out.


----------



## n0legs

mouppe":15j9p2j7 said:


> Definitely..........




some of the most interesting pieces I've seen posted here =D> 
Very very nice.


----------



## n0legs

Well I decided it was time to move some of the tools to the workshop, actually the good lady decided it for me :lol: 
So I needed somewhere to put them. A friend had her old ranch style banisters replaced, so I used that for the framework and just general purpose hardwood ply from the local timber yard. I think the frames are alder, but don't quote me on that.
Lacquered with 2K clear, with the inside in a 2K cream colour I mixed from leftovers. The door furniture will be done soon.









Now I need to plan the fit out #-o


----------



## OM99

n0legs":1395ha8r said:


> Well I decided it was time to move some of the tools to the workshop, actually the good lady decided it for me :lol:
> So I needed somewhere to put them. A friend had her old ranch style banisters replaced, so I used that for the framework and just general purpose hardwood ply from the local timber yard. I think the frames are alder, but don't quote me on that.
> Lacquered with 2K clear, with the inside in a 2K cream colour I mixed from leftovers. The door furniture will be done soon.
> 
> Now I need to plan the fit out #-o




OOOH Shiny .

Very nice though.

Oli


----------



## stuffimade

This bad boy
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... 1PxzttgEaI


----------



## custard

There's a current thread about Brown Oak in the projects forum. I posted some photos there of boards in a curious interim stage on the way to becoming Brown Oak, a rare timber called Tiger Oak. This is when the fungus has invaded the tree, but the tree was felled before the tree has turned completely brown, which permanently arrests the process at this stage.

I said on that thread that I'd post some snaps here of a finished article made from this timber. This is one of a pair of side tables I made from some large stocks of Tiger Oak that I was lucky enough to find.






It was an interesting and surprisingly challenging project to make. The curved stretchers need a halving joint on a curve and also need to be morticed and tenoned into a narrow chamfer on the inside of the splayed legs, so there's plenty of enjoyably complicated joinery involving angles and curves that all needs to be done with real precision to ensure tight glue lines. The top has a very narrow 1mm inlaid line of Sycamore stringing, and because the top is solid timber the only way to stop it popping out with seasonal movement is to use cross grain inlay on the cross grain sides. Cutting and fitting 1mm cross grained stringing accurately was another satisfying exercise.






Having sunk so much effort into these it only made sense to maintain the same build quality standards even on the less visible sections. So the top is secured with elegantly shaped buttons as a nice little touch, and there are corner blocks added which are tightly scribed into the angles of the splayed angle of the legs. Incidentally, these are all made from "normal Oak" so you can clearly see the colour difference between normal and Tiger/Brown Oak






It was a surprising amount of work but it was well worth it because off the back of these I'm close to securing a commission for a substantial desk and chair in Tiger Oak which will be a good three months work. As a small independent maker it's difficult to compete, but by using these kinds of unique and rare woods it's possible to carve out a point of difference that clients appreciate and, more importantly, are willing to pay for!


----------



## beganasatree

Hi Custard,
Nice one,I wish I had some of your skills,I hope that you get the commission.


Peter.


----------



## monkeybiter

Gorgeous, clear demonstration of skill without being ostentatious ar flamboyant. I am curious about the underside though, I thought that buttons slotted into the apron to allow for movement in the top, however the corner blocks appear to be screwed into both the corners and the top. Is this not a problem because of the small size, or am I misunderstanding something?


----------



## custard

Well spotted Mike, you are both sharp-eyed and absolutely correct! However in this case there's a 1.5mm gap between the top and the corner block, plus a hefty countersink on the hidden under side of the corner blocks, consequently there's some wiggle room for the brass screws to move with the top while at the same time providing hold down pressure out in the far corners where it needs it most. 

Incidentally, the top is cut from two jointed boards sawn just fractionally off the quarter (I didn't want the Oak's medullary rays interfering with the harmonious top, and unless the two boards had been book matched medullary rays are a pig to joint up cleanly), the boards were also left to acclimatise for a decent time period and taken down to final thickness in four or five small steps spread over a month or so. Consequently I'm reasonably confident about the top remaining _fairly_ flat. You'll hear some people advise alternating the heart and bark sides when jointing a top, I get the _theoretical_ logic behind this, but if you look at scores or hundreds of antique tops you'll see they generally tend to cup upwards no matter what the board layout is. There's some interesting speculative explanations for this phenomenon, but they're a bit long winded and I'm being called for lunch!


----------



## blackrodd

The words Spiffing, Lovely, and superb spring to mind, A pleasure to look at.
Rodders


----------



## xy mosian

That table is stunning. A wonderful example of of exquisit craftsmanship.

xy


----------



## Woodchips2

Well done Custard, looks lovely =D> =D> =D> 

Regards Keith


----------



## Lons

Small bowl in lime. Max height 90mm x max width 130mm.
Had 4 coats of danish oil and will need a few more, I'm not especially happy with it but wife has claimed so she can have it. 
Bob


----------



## Random Orbital Bob

Lovely work Custard. That piece is like I'm looking at my stock of Brown Oak, the similarity is striking. I'm starting to think mine must be Tiger oak now


----------



## DTR

Beautiful work, Custard


----------



## Woody2Shoes

"Cross-grained 1mm stringing" - my brain turns to mush just trying to imagine doing this. How did you do that?? I've never tried doing string inlay, but have recently bought a few LN cutters so I can make my own tools (rather than pay £100s for the very beautiful LN Latta-designed ones) to have a go. Very nice curves, BTW, W2S


----------



## beganasatree

Hi Bob,
Like the natural edge and your stamp/brand on the bottom.I quite fancy a brand for my work,any suggestions for a manufacturer ??


Peter.


----------



## Woodmonkey

Woody2Shoes":kl3baz8p said:


> "Cross-grained 1mm stringing" - my brain turns to mush just trying to imagine doing this. How did you do that?? I've never tried doing string inlay, but have recently bought a few LN cutters so I can make my own tools (rather than pay £100s for the very beautiful LN Latta-designed ones) to have a go. Very nice curves, BTW, W2S




Exactly what I was thinking, that must be like trying to inlay a slice of digestive biscuit. Beautiful work, Custard.


----------



## custard

Woody2Shoes":2djtqj4e said:


> "Cross-grained 1mm stringing" - my brain turns to mush just trying to imagine doing this. How did you do that??



Everyone seems to figure out there own way of doing it. Some people use those really tiny bench top circular saws, with an ultra thin kerf blade and a zero clearance insert. Initially I tried my big table saw, but because it has a permanent sliding table it's tricky to get a really tight fitting zero clearance insert, and the draught around the saw plate made the workpiece flutter and it then just destroyed itself. Eventually I found a way using a hand held circular saw running in a track, the workpiece is fully supported underneath and you can use engineer's shims to adjust the width of the cut against a stop. Another maker I know has figured out a way of making cross grain inlay down to 0.5mm thick, but he's not telling how and I can't get finer than 1.0mm with my system!

Good luck with the LN cutters, they're superb pieces of tool steel, but make sure you use a good file like a Grobet to sharpen them or it's easy to lose the profile.


----------



## custard

Toby Tools of this parish spent the day in my workshop. He's making a Krenov style cabinet on stand as the main project for his C&G cabinet making course and he wanted some help veneering panels for the interior and the doors, so I sorted him out some really heavily rippled Ash veneer that's a touch thicker than the usual 0.6mm and showed him how to shoot veneer edges and vacuum veneer it to an MDF substrate with Sycamore backing veneers.

He's a fine craftsman and a quick learner! When the finish is applied I think it will be pretty spectacular cabinet so good luck Toby with your course and your Krenov cabinet!


----------



## John15

Good luck Toby with your C and G cabinet making course.

John


----------



## DTR

Quick and dirty sawhorse






The one on the right is just an old and dirty sawhorse


----------



## n0legs

custard":1u1g2fmu said:


> This is one of a pair of side tables I made from some large stocks of Tiger Oak that I was lucky enough to find.



Simply stunning Custard =D>


----------



## n0legs

Lons":23pjlmhf said:


> Small bowl in lime. Max height 90mm x max width 130mm.
> Had 4 coats of danish oil and will need a few more, I'm not especially happy with it but wife has claimed so she can have it.
> Bob




Very nice Bob =D>


----------



## n0legs

custard":hwocl0e5 said:


> Toby Tools of this parish spent the day in my workshop. He's making a Krenov style cabinet on stand as the main project for his C&G cabinet making course and he wanted some help veneering panels for the interior and the doors, so I sorted him out some really heavily rippled Ash veneer that's a touch thicker than the usual 0.6mm and showed him how to shoot veneer edges and vacuum veneer it to an MDF substrate with Sycamore backing veneers.



For Toby and Custard =D> 
That's going to look fantastic =D>


----------



## n0legs

DTR":dlxek752 said:


> Quick and dirty sawhorse



Nowt quick and dirty about that =D>


----------



## stuffimade

Router cabinet build... in progress
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCx_IYo ... lxvJ1uddcQ


----------



## custard

DTR":ks4hsy8a said:


> Quick and dirty sawhorse



I don't know about that, you've taken the care to house the stretchers into the legs and there are a few other little touches that are evidence of quality and craftsmanship. I reckon someone will still be using it in fifty or sixty years and thinking "pity they don't make them like this any more!".

=D>


----------



## morfa

n0legs":1fv7k4sb said:


> DTR":1fv7k4sb said:
> 
> 
> 
> Quick and dirty sawhorse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nowt quick and dirty about that =D>
Click to expand...


I agree, it's nicer than mine and I was trying hard(ish) to make it look good.


----------



## DennisCA

Screw advance box joint jig using Matthias Wandel plans:











Instead of a guide bar I have it bolted to the sliding table. I put threaded inserts in the table that line up with the jig, so it'll always clamp down in the same place.


----------



## monkeybiter

A lot of work in that, looks like fun.


----------



## DennisCA

It was one of my more challenging projects, good thing I kept pushing it back. I was much better able to make this today than I would have been a year ago.

Last night I was baking bread and thought I really don't wanna knead on the countertop. So I went out in the shop and threw this together from pine and plywood:





Slides in nicely under the stovetop:


----------



## DennisCA

Playing with my screw advance box joint jig, so impressed with the precision of the thing.










What's more, I made all the pieces separately. I made one, then turned the jig back to start position and did another. For mating two pieces like this I advanced the start position by one turn. One of the things I've seen people have issues with other jigs is getting the pieces to line up exactly, and the solution is to make the pieces oversize and trim them afterwards. No such thing needed here.


----------



## monkeybiter

They certainly are very nice clean joints, must be a nice sharp blade too!

I'm going to pinch your idea with the positive and repeatable location on the sliding table, but I think I'll just use a locating pin and the built in hold down clamp.


----------



## DennisCA

Actually the blade I used here was dull and chipped, but it was a flat tooth grind blade though.


----------



## Doris

This years Noahs Ark, about 3 times as big as the last one. With Camels....


----------



## Racers

Been messing around in the workshop again.



Oak and Silver Birch burr box by Racers, on Flickr



Oak and Silver Birch burr box by Racers, on Flickr

Pete


----------



## custard

Useful box and some lovely timbers. Personal opinion only but it looks a little odd to my eye to have the book match running East-West instead of North-South. Also you could have run a vertical chamfer on the front two edges of the base that co-incide with the joint, that would have echoed the chamfer detail on the lid and made the joinery invisible. Just my opinion, which as I don't have to live with it counts for precisely zero!


----------



## custard

Doris":2gcl2dtl said:


> This years Noahs Ark, about 3 times as big as the last one. With Camels....



Stunning...as always...your design skills really are right up there. Is that gold paint or gilding? It looks very glittery and golden.


----------



## n0legs

Doris":1d9787tw said:


> This years Noahs Ark, about 3 times as big as the last one. With Camels....


 Great Ark Doris =D>


----------



## n0legs

Racers":1edmcfn5 said:


> Been messing around in the workshop again.
> 
> 
> 
> Oak and Silver Birch burr box by Racers, on Flickr
> Pete



That's a lovely box Pete, very nice =D>


----------



## rafezetter

Racers":3kbsuhul said:


> Been messing around in the workshop again.
> 
> 
> 
> Oak and Silver Birch burr box by Racers, on Flickr
> 
> Pete



Nice box there, interesting grain pattern on the top - almost bat like, or is that just me?


----------



## John15

Very nice indeed Pete. The top is stunning.

John


----------



## Racers

Thanks for the comments chaps, I didn't see a bat until you mentioned it!

The silver birch is a nightmare to plane its very soft and the grain goes every way, a close set chip breaker (0.1mm) is the only way to plane it.

It should have been turned 90 degrees but somebody made a mistake in the glue up!

Pete


----------



## custard

Racers":1vdl9g65 said:


> The silver birch is a nightmare to plane its very soft and the grain goes every way, a close set chip breaker (0.1mm) is the only way to plane it.



It's interesting to hear an "independent" voice advocating that planing technique, I've been meaning to give it a go since the recent thread discussing it, hearing that you've tried it and that it works makes me all the keener!


----------



## DennisCA

I can't get it to work myself, but I must be doing something wrong, but not the place to ask this.


----------



## DTR

Very nice, Racers


----------



## OM99

Racers":1vnb6aio said:


> Been messing around in the workshop again.




If you call that messing around what do you do when your serious :wink: ?

Really nice box.

Olivier


----------



## Doris

custard":1kiujhgw said:


> Doris":1kiujhgw said:
> 
> 
> 
> This years Noahs Ark, about 3 times as big as the last one. With Camels....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stunning...as always...your design skills really are right up there. Is that gold paint or gilding? It looks very glittery and golden.
Click to expand...




n0legs":1kiujhgw said:


> Doris":1kiujhgw said:
> 
> 
> 
> This years Noahs Ark, about 3 times as big as the last one. With Camels....
> 
> 
> 
> Great Ark Doris =D>
Click to expand...


Thanks chaps. The hull is made from plywood so was a little reluctant to post it on here.

It is indeed gold paint. It doesn't look very glittery in person i don't think. 

Its hopefully going to be donated to the local sunday school once all the animals are made. Am struggling to work out a pose for noah too who has yet to be carved...


----------



## Racers

Thanks chaps.

Pete


----------



## pjm699

Set of toys for various small ones.
Not deeply taxing to make but great fun to give away.
Made a batch as it always takes more time to set tools up rather than the making.
Chunks of 3" fence post put to good use.
Special hard bumpers for maximum skirting board damage!


----------



## Cordy

pjm699 
Very Nice =D> 
=D> =D>


----------



## Froggy

Brilliant!!


----------



## DiscoStu

They look like Land Rover Defenders!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Emanuel

Just took a look at some of the things that you created. Great work and some very creative ideas. 
Some of these would work perfect as presents' ideas (hammer)


----------



## DTR

PJM699, they're brilliant! =D>


----------



## Bm101

Landies! They're lovely. You could post a photo or two here: http://www.alrc.co.uk/ 
You might end up with a nice little contract for a few thousand of them. Never know if you don't try. I believe some of the owners are a little ... whats that word for obsessed again?


----------



## custard

pjm699":mt6zjman said:


> Set of toys for various small ones.
> Not deeply taxing to make but great fun to give away.
> Made a batch as it always takes more time to set tools up rather than the making.
> Chunks of 3" fence post put to good use.
> Special hard bumpers for maximum skirting board damage!



Outstanding work!

=D> 

Great execution (really clean and tidy) and great design (you've kept the details that matter and dropped everything else). You sir are a very talented woodworker.


----------



## ColeyS1

They look superb. Off roading on a floor mat- awesome !

Coley


----------



## brianhabby

pjm699":2twsfx1m said:


> Set of toys for various small ones.
> Not deeply taxing to make but great fun to give away.
> Made a batch as it always takes more time to set tools up rather than the making.
> Chunks of 3" fence post put to good use.
> Special hard bumpers for maximum skirting board damage!


Brilliant, thanks for sharing.

regards

Brian


----------



## beganasatree

Hi pjm699,

I like those,they are such a refreshing change.I have never tried making toys prehaps I should the grand kids would enjoy them.
Just wondering what the pjm stands for???

Peter.( pjm wood crafts )


----------



## rafezetter

Doris":1ojpt1kv said:



> Thanks chaps. The hull is made from plywood so was a little reluctant to post it on here.
> 
> It is indeed gold paint. It doesn't look very glittery in person i don't think.
> 
> Its hopefully going to be donated to the local sunday school once all the animals are made.* Am struggling to work out a pose for noah too who has yet to be carved...*



With the way modern kids are these days it should probably be gangnam style - raise a few eyebrows with the fogeys maybe though.


----------



## Doug B

An hour the other day & half an hour this morning has ensured a very peaceful Valentine's Day for me with mucho brownie points earned.






I'd like to admit the painting of the picture had nothing to do with me though.


----------



## Rhyolith

pjm699":10ug8gi7 said:


> Special hard bumpers for maximum skirting board damage!


 :lol: Love that


----------



## Doris

Now completed all the animals and noah (sorry no gangman style pose, will save that for the next one)


----------



## NazNomad

That's gorgeous. I like the bi-polar bears. :-D


----------



## RHob

Pictures not the greatest but table made from London Plane.


----------



## Cordy

RHob 
Table looks good and neat  

is it pocket jointed ?


----------



## RHob

Thanks. 

Mortice and tenon with the top held on with buttons.


----------



## Penny

A Pace Stick stand made for an old boss' husband who has just been made a Sergeant Major. Most of those that are made are a simple base and two boards standing at 90 degrees with a notch in them and have burgundy felt to protect the Pace Stick. I've added a WW2 REME Capbadge and a current one. A mobile phone rest is at the back. A brass name plaque will be added by his wife. It's made in White Oak and stained cherry because Cherry is very expensive, especially for the thickness I needed.*












* A Pace Stick, for those that don't know, is the 'stick' that Sergeant Majors carry around with them. It is seem as one of the accoutrements of office. It opens up to be used for measuring the 'pace' or 'step' during foot drill.


----------



## stuffimade

I made this desktop monitor riser

(build video is here if you have a few minutes spare - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-oxb3-_9Ks)


----------



## Doris

I could do with one of them monitor risers for my desk. 

Here's a Key box I made as well that I recently completed. Painted a nice design for the front too on a piece of glass.


----------



## monkeybiter

That's an attractive keybox Doris, nicely executed design on the glass too.


----------



## Woodchips2

Well done stuffimade, I enjoyed the video too =D> =D> The keys and the dowels finish it off very well.

Regards Keith


----------



## Emanuel

Working at a staircase renovation project. Doing the string cladding.


----------



## scosarg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dsYdFFHPto


----------



## Steve Jones

I've been messing around with fonts on the cnc this morning getting ready for a forthcoming project.
The font used is liffey which has been V carved using a 22mm 60 degree bit letters were sprayed in using Chestnut ebonising lacquer





Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk


----------



## Phil1975

I am fairly new to the forum & woodworking in general. 
I am now in the fortunate position where I have been able to borrow a workspace & begin to make something. 
I appreciate that none of what I have made is anywhere near the level of most of what I see on this site, but we all have to start somewhere & I am happy so far, although I feel I am at the bottom of a very steep learning curve.

First came the coffee table, mainly made using hand tools.






Then came the cupboard, made from recycled window sills. I really bit off a bit more than I could chew, but I got there in the end.











Last week I made the book stand, as a Birthday present.






Finally the best thing I have made to date, which arrived on Wednesday, so no more woodwork for a few days!


----------



## DiscoStu

Ah! Sweet! 

If I'd have made the cupboard or the table as my first projects I'd have been very proud - they look fab! Well done. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Racers

Really like your work, mind you I don't think you claim all the credit for the last one!

Hand tools are quiet so you should be able to do a bit between feeding and sleeping.

Pete


----------



## Racers

Another Birch and Oak box with a flip up lid.



Birch Burr and Oak box with flip up lid by Racers, on Flickr

Needs another coat of wax on the inside.



Birch Burr and Oak box with flip up lid by Racers, on Flickr

Hand tool porn!



Record 043 with short fence rods cutting the grove for the bottom by Racers, on Flickr

Pete


----------



## Wuffles

Racers":wuixbql3 said:


> Another Birch and Oak box with a flip up lid.
> 
> 
> 
> Birch Burr and Oak box with flip up lid by Racers, on Flickr
> 
> Pete



Do we ask how stuff was done on this thread? I LOVE that flip up lid. I can make doors that end up looking like that very easily, but intentionally? How?


----------



## Racers

It's made from a thicker piece of wood with most of the waste bandsaw off and the corner shaped with rasps files sandpaper scrapers etc. 
The birch is very soft so it gets a coat of superglue to harden it. 

Pete


----------



## Wuffles

Racers":2snlpv7b said:


> It's made from a thicker piece of wood with most of the waste bandsaw off and the corner shaped with rasps files sandpaper scrapers etc.
> The birch is very soft so it gets a coat of superglue to harden it.
> 
> Pete



Thanks Pete, I suspected that was the case, but thought I should check in case you said - "yeah, I simply steamed the corner and used a thigamebob to raise it", or something else that made me look like a total novice.

Love it. Cheers.


----------



## Woodchips2

Well done Phil1975, lovely woodwork and congratulations on the new arrival =D> =D> =D> 

Regards Keith


----------



## Gianluca

Hello everyone,
this is my first post here, and this is one of the clocks i make as an hobby


----------



## DTR

Gianluca, please tell me all those gears are functional! It looks amazing, good work!


----------



## DTR

Phil1975, great stuff! =D>


----------



## custard

Racers":fgbm98ga said:


> Another Birch and Oak box with a flip up lid.



That is seriously special! Very well designed and very well executed.

=D>


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Mr Maddex, lovely work =D>

:arrow: Gianluca, that is awesome =D>


----------



## Beau

Love that box Pete. great lid


----------



## Gianluca

DTR":flitp0ql said:


> Gianluca, please tell me all those gears are functional! It looks amazing, good work!



Yes they works perfectly, and the clocks keep good time too


----------



## Emanuel

Gianluca":2ltpntn2 said:


> Hello everyone,
> this is my first post here, and this is one of the clocks i make as an hobby


Nice. Is it functional?
- I just read another comment and realised you already answered my question.
Well done!


----------



## DTR

Gianluca":2uf5bqal said:


> DTR":2uf5bqal said:
> 
> 
> 
> Gianluca, please tell me all those gears are functional! It looks amazing, good work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes they works perfectly, and the clocks keep good time too
Click to expand...


Did you design it yourself or work from plans? I'd love to make one myself!


----------



## Gianluca

It is of my design, i made quite a few of them


----------



## Racers

Thanks Chaps.

Pete


----------



## memzey

Phil1975":1uwn7f9f said:


> I am fairly new to the forum & woodworking in general.
> I am now in the fortunate position where I have been able to borrow a workspace & begin to make something.
> I appreciate that none of what I have made is anywhere near the level of most of what I see on this site, but we all have to start somewhere & I am happy so far, although I feel I am at the bottom of a very steep learning curve.
> 
> First came the coffee table, mainly made using hand tools.
> 
> 
> 
> Then came the cupboard, made from recycled window sills. I really bit off a bit more than I could chew, but I got there in the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last week I made the book stand, as a Birthday present.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally the best thing I have made to date, which arrived on Wednesday, so no more woodwork for a few days!


Awesome on all four counts - although the the last one is a bit special


----------



## Doris

Gianluca":2lttiyn1 said:


> It is of my design, i made quite a few of them



I hope you sell those.

Take my money!


----------



## mind_the_goat

This is my first attempt at a bandsaw box. I made it from a lump of hardwood I found on the beach a year ago, knew it would come in useful one day 
No idea what wood it is, Having recently brought a metal detector, based on a link on another forum post, I failed to use it, so am in need of a new blade (I know, tuff saws). However it did mean that I have this unique staining from the nails. I did rush it a bit, as I was doing this over the weekend of 14th Feb. didn't notice I'd left a glue mark and a pencil line on the edge.

All credit to Jimmy Diresta on You Tube for the inspiration.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cg0d6ZQ00Rg


----------



## wolfey

Very nice! 

The wood is Jarrah (eucalyptus) Very hard but machines well.


----------



## mind_the_goat

wolfey":3o7hdxk8 said:


> Very nice!
> 
> The wood is Jarrah (eucalyptus) Very hard but machines well.



Thank you for the id, and appreciation. I wondered if it was a block from a heavy duty pallet, Not used much hardwood and had no idea what to expect when I started sawing this weathered old block, but it seemed nice to work with and I had a big smile on my face when I saw what was emerging. I'm now eyeing up the eucalyptus trees at the bottom of our garden


----------



## brianhabby

mind_the_goat":38mimp77 said:


> I'm now eyeing up the eucalyptus trees at the bottom of our garden



I said to SWMBO the other day, "That birch tree looks about ready for turning". Didn't go down very well 

regards

Brian


----------



## wolfey

LOL! I think our eucalyptus is a bit different to this Jarrah so don't rush for the chainsaw!!!

You was close tho with pallet feet! Jarrah is largely found in railway sleepers.


----------



## pjm699

Love the heart shaped box (the nail staining really makes it interesting) - not sure I could give a nailed heart to my lady - it might give her ideas!


----------



## mind_the_goat

pjm699":3miih2w2 said:


> Love the heart shaped box (the nail staining really makes it interesting) - not sure I could give a nailed heart to my lady - it might give her ideas!


It had a few cracks in it too, was worried it was going to be broken before I'd given it to her.


----------



## Bm101

Gianluca":3rxp4kvf said:


> It is of my design, i made quite a few of them


I don't usually post in this thread, although I love keeping an eye on the incredible stuff people on here make but I thought you might be interested in this thread if you haven't seen it already Gianluca. antikythera-mechanism-t84397.html Think you might like it.


----------



## Rhyolith

.


----------



## Fitzroy

Oak and ash folding step stool, based on a youtube video.

Open




Folded


----------



## monkeybiter

Neat!


----------



## blackrodd

Nice looking job there, I just love the pivots, an interesting design very well done.
Rodders


----------



## n0legs

I made a mallet. 
UHMW head with a hard wood handle of unknown species.


----------



## xy mosian

That is a very good looking mallet. Does it slip on the chisel handle in use? 
Please explain what " UHMW " is, yes I can see that it is some variety of plastic.

xy


----------



## n0legs

xy mosian":2vh4fc4d said:


> That is a very good looking mallet. Does it slip on the chisel handle in use?
> Please explain what " UHMW " is, yes I can see that it is some variety of plastic.
> 
> xy



Thank you. 
As far as I've used it hasn't slipped, it just gives a nice solid "thunk" on the chisels.
UHMW is Ultra High Molecular Weight polyethylene. It's very tough and it is quite easy to work, I turned the head with a roughing gouge and a scraper. I drilled it with a forstner bit. Lovely long ribbons of the stuff all over the workshop  
Here's a link for Wiki that explains it far better than I ever could:-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-hig ... lyethylene


----------



## xy mosian

Thanks for the explanation n0Legs, and the information that the mallet doesn't slip. I've often wondered about that.

xy


----------



## RogerBoyle

n0legs":cdls26ei said:


> xy mosian":cdls26ei said:
> 
> 
> 
> That is a very good looking mallet. Does it slip on the chisel handle in use?
> Please explain what " UHMW " is, yes I can see that it is some variety of plastic.
> 
> xy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> As far as I've used it hasn't slipped, it just gives a nice solid "thunk" on the chisels.
> UHMW is Ultra High Molecular Weight polyethylene. It's very tough and it is quite easy to work, I turned the head with a roughing gouge and a scraper. I drilled it with a forstner bit. Lovely long ribbons of the stuff all over the workshop
> Here's a link for Wiki that explains it far better than I ever could:-
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-hig ... lyethylene
Click to expand...


Can I ask where you got the plastic from as I may well follow your example 

Roger


----------



## ColeyS1

Fitzroy":3heb36fv said:


> Oak and ash folding step stool, based on a youtube video.
> 
> Open
> 
> Folded


That looks mind bogglingly awesome !!! Very smart

Coley


----------



## Phill joiner

My wife wanted a mushroom.


----------



## n0legs

Phill joiner":3eskna4u said:


> My wife wanted a mushroom.




I like it =D>


----------



## memzey

Drill press table with removable sacrificial strip:




Mini-WIP in AES' thread in the jig and tips forum.


----------



## Penny

Penny":jb43xe3i said:


> A Pace Stick stand made for an old boss' husband who has just been made a Sergeant Major. Most of those that are made are a simple base and two boards standing at 90 degrees with a notch in them and have burgundy felt to protect the Pace Stick. I've added a WW2 REME Capbadge and a current one. A mobile phone rest is at the back. A brass name plaque will be added by his wife. It's made in White Oak and stained cherry because Cherry is very expensive, especially for the thickness I needed.*
> 
> View attachment 12736983
> 
> 
> View attachment 12755043
> 
> 
> * A Pace Stick, for those that don't know, is the 'stick' that Sergeant Majors carry around with them. It is seem as one of the accoutrements of office. It opens up to be used for measuring the 'pace' or 'step' during foot drill.




Now with it's brass name plaque and complete with the pace stick. Now, I hadn't been able to get the pace stick to check the colour, but by 'eck, it's a bloody good match! The new owner has already had people asking if they could get one the same...


----------



## Cordy

Adirondack made to a Norm design in Redwood

Norm

White is the primer/undercoat
Waiting for warmer weather before painting Pale Blue

First chair I've made; now swapped the roofing bolts for stainless coach-bolts
Had to resize Norm's plans and made templates in MDF


----------



## NazNomad

''The Lamp Of Shame''

Amazing how something that appears initially so simple can pose so many manufacturing problems.

Still, it works fine.


----------



## mind_the_goat

NazNomad, just wiping up the tea I spit out when I saw this


----------



## monkeybiter

Very witty!


----------



## Woodchips2

Nice job Cordy, well done =D> =D> 

Is the chair very comfortable?

Regards Keith


----------



## Cordy

Cheers Keith
Yes very comfortable; I'm not surprised that they are so popular in USA
Already have orders for 2 more, free of course :lol: :lol: 

Going to make exactly as Norm's plans except for a few pocket hole joints - seat and back slats

The legs look a little vulnerable should the chair be moved around a lot, so I'm going to make one with Oak legs and second with Mahogany legs using timber that's lying around
Norm's Video


----------



## IHc1vtr+

Something a bit different to usual pen's


----------



## NazNomad

Woodchips2":177wb8v3 said:


> Is the chair very comfortable?



The Adirondack chair is often stated as being ''the most comfortable wooden chair you'll ever sit in'' ... and they're right. I made three of these many years ago and they out-comfort any other wooden furniture I've sat on.

I used these plans ... http://www.buildeazy.com/fp_adirondackchair_std-4.html


----------



## custard

NazNomad":1whaeh5v said:


> Woodchips2":1whaeh5v said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is the chair very comfortable?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Adirondack chair is often stated as being ''the most comfortable wooden chair you'll ever sit in'' ... and they're right. I made three of these many years ago and they out-comfort any other wooden furniture I've sat on.
> 
> I used these plans ... http://www.buildeazy.com/fp_adirondackchair_std-4.html
Click to expand...


Very comfortable when you're sat down...but tricky for anyone over 40 to then stand up!


----------



## Cordy

> Very comfortable when you're sat down...but tricky for anyone over 40 to then stand up!



Can't agree with you there Custard
Today is my 73rd birthday; I have no problem getting up from the Adi chair
It does look like a traditional deck-chair, but in use we find it easy :lol: 

Roll on Summer


----------



## custard

Cordy":3eb8b8ts said:


> Can't agree with you there Custard
> Today is my 73rd birthday; I have no problem getting up from the Adi chair
> It does look like a traditional deck-chair, but in use we find it easy :lol:
> 
> Roll on Summer



More power to your elbow..or should that be more power to your knees!


----------



## bugbear

Did I make this, or was it always inside the blank, so did I just extract it...?







( hickory-is-hard-t95081.html )

BugBear


----------



## defsdoor

"knocked" this up over the weekend - no skills required (not a joint in sight) and I was scavenging for scraps close to the end  The plywood I had for this is terrible - mostly gaps and wafer!


----------



## OM99

First ever thing i have made, took me ages and made lots of mistake along the way. All done with hand tools, used a lot more wood that was required for it and made so much shaving trying to square the pieces that i could probably made another box out of them :roll: 

Still proud of myself and the end result, not perfect but for someone learning as i go along. Wanted to do a dovetail joint for the sides but failed, so tried a mitre and again couldn't get a proper 45 degree (need to make a mitre shooting board). So ended up with a butt joint and as i was going to glue the bottom i knew it would be strong enough for a box.

Wood is Sapele and Maple, from Chrispy big piles of off cuts :wink: 

Oli


----------



## monkeybiter

That doesn't look half bad, especially for a first go! I like the double chamfer on the lid and base.
You may have issues with wood movement and separating joints due to changing humidity, but as with the rest of the build [as you describe it] it's been a very productive and impressive learning experience. 
I hope you post piccies of your next one!


----------



## Jonzjob

I have just finished one of these for a friend









She likes sewing..

I forgot to say that the pins are ash turned to 5mm. Stronger than doing them in beech.


----------



## DTR

That's brilliant, I might have to make one for Doris....


----------



## Jonzjob

Be my guest DT. One thing to watch id the clearance for the bobbins when opening the rack. I had to chamfer the front edge of one I made because it was about 1/8" too close!!


----------



## pjm699

That bobbin rack is brilliant, might have to make one for my mum! love the folding away which holds them all in - really cunning!


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: OM99. That's a cracking job, good contrast =D> . Mistakes are just a by-product of practice, keep at it  

:arrow: Jonzjob. I'm going to steal that design if you don't mind, I know a certain someone with a sewing box in a right mess :lol: Lovely job =D>


----------



## beech1948

defsdoor":c2i1pfn3 said:


> "knocked" this up over the weekend - no skills required (not a joint in sight) and I was scavenging for scraps close to the end  The plywood I had for this is terrible - mostly gaps and wafer!




What are the black boxes in the rolling cabinet. I'm looking for some storege ideas.

Al


----------



## Jonzjob

n0legs":g349zwmg said:


> :arrow: OM99. That's a cracking job, good contrast =D> . Mistakes are just a by-product of practice, keep at it
> 
> :arrow: Jonzjob. I'm going to steal that design if you don't mind, I know a certain someone with a sewing box in a right mess :lol: Lovely job =D>



Steal it!! That's stealing and all I did was to 'borrow' it from a sewing magazine several years back to make for SWMBO's cousin   

Be my guest Legless!! About the only thing to watch is to get the distance between the screw holes exactly the same for all levels and as I said, watch the height too. I recessed the stand leg at the back eventually. I double sided taped 2 strips of beech, 1/2 X 1/4" , turned to round, cut 1/2 a hole in the back of both middle levels and glued/screwed the stand into the higher one. That way, when it's laid flat it is all flush and doesn't rock on the leg. I also pyrographed a nice Celtic knot either side of the handle. I'll see about posting a photo of it. It really gives it an extra lift!!


----------



## Jonzjob

Yer tis





And the recessed back stay, well ya can't go anywhere without yer back stay recessed :mrgreen: 





I hope it helps?


----------



## beganasatree

Hi John,
You have given me the answer to one of my problems,how to store my fly tying threads,silks,flosses,ect,ect.I would have to have two rows of pegs per shelf.Could you please post a photo looking at it from the side??

Peter.


----------



## Jonzjob

Peter, your wish is my command-ish :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Front and side as they say somewhere









Well, side and back actually??? The idea of putting 2 rows on a shelf is OK, but don't forget that the distance between the inner faces of the front and rear uprights defines the angle that the shelves will open up to. i.e., if the distance is more then the shelves will swivel further before the front/back uprights come together. Sorry, I am not putting this very clearly??

Do a small mock up, that's an 'm' not a 'c', and you will see what I mean. It's too late for me, especially after the AGM of our village Ancient Combattants, of which I am honoured to be a member :shock: :shock:


----------



## beganasatree

Thanks John,I shall experiment with it and I think that I will fit 2 back stays.

Peter.


----------



## paulrockliffe

I picked up a Myford LM8 yesterday, today I tested it out by turning an off cut of oak from the kitchen door frame into a bowl:



2016-03-13_01-31-16 by Paul Rockliffe, on Flickr

I'm pretty pleased with it for a first attempt. I did cock up thinking the chuck was OK for a tenon, but it expands into a recess, so it ended up with screw holes in the bottom as I hollowed it out on a faceplate, but it was a good learning experience and you can't normally see the bottom.


----------



## RobCee

I have been working on a wine rack for my sister. She wanted walnut and I have not worked with (much) solid wood before, so thought it would be a challenge. It had to fit in a specific space, hence the slightly odd shape. I think it turned out rather nicely after all.
















It always amazes me how good dovetails look when finished nicely, even if they looked ropey as heck before hand!


----------



## Froggy

That's very nice =D> =D> =D> Original design and beautifully made.


----------



## monkeybiter

Lucky sister! Gorgeous, better when full.


----------



## John15

A very attractive piece Rob.

John


----------



## n0legs

Brilliant wine rack =D>


----------



## ColeyS1

My neighbour gave me this branch. Instead of logging it up I thought it might make a good bird table. 
I epoxied a scaffold tube in the end so I can lift it out from the ground if needed.













I bought them as plush toys and manipulated them with drawing pins to give the correct pose. 



A couple coats of fibreglass resin then a final coat injected to completely harden it. - this pic made me chuckle 




Mission impossible style Sylvester





Just a bit of fun  
Coley 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Zeddedhed

Prepped the strings and newels on Saturday, routed and assembled on Monday, fitted this morning. One of those oh so wonderful jobs when it all goes EXACTLY to plan. We rocked up with the staircase on the roof of the van at 10:00 and drove away at 14:30. Happy days.


----------



## focusonwood

I'm still making things to organise my tiny workshop...this time a mobile stand for screws, hardware and small tools/accessories.

Made out of 18mm external plywood...it's not good quality ply but it'll do.

It's a very simple construction joined with pocket holes...next project is some wood storage.

Once that's done i'm going to try to make something nice with the plywood...it's not good quality so i'll need to be inventive.


----------



## Simo

Just finished this Beech and Black Walnut chopping board. It was my first attempt at making an end grain board, but I'm fairly happy with how it turned out.. although it did make me wish I had a table/track saw to make life easier


----------



## Cordy

Very nice Simo =D>


----------



## Beau

Yes very very nice Simo. Looks very precise, well done =D>


----------



## ColeyS1

A couple planters from left over oak slithers.
Originally looked like




It looked a bit fugly so got the chop.

Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Setch

Simo":1ejnfozg said:


> Just finished this Beech and Black Walnut chopping board.



Very nice! Offcuts from the latest bass? Where do you get all that gorgeous walnut?


----------



## Simo

Setch":2ja7vc2c said:


> Simo":2ja7vc2c said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished this Beech and Black Walnut chopping board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice! Offcuts from the latest bass? Where do you get all that gorgeous walnut?
Click to expand...


Cheers Setch  

I brought a job lot of Walnut from a chap on eBay about 3 years ago, enough for 10 or so body blanks, plus a few left over pieces that didn't make the grade. He was just a private seller, not a commercial supplier.. which is a shame, as it was a seriously good price.


----------



## Woody2Shoes

"...A couple planters..."

Very nice. How did you do the lettering? Cheers, W2S


----------



## MBcarpentry

Knocked this end grain chopping board together over the last couple of days black walnut and hard maple, was my 1st attempt at a cutting board


----------



## ColeyS1

Woody2Shoes":2et14bnm said:


> "...A couple planters..."
> 
> Very nice. How did you do the lettering? Cheers, W2S


Thankyou. The lettering was done using stencils- eBay number 161948033715 if you're looking for some ( think I bought a couple sets of the 35mm version) just masking tape them together then I used 'bedec msp' paint and dabbed on the letters. That paint is just an all in one paint that seems to come in handy alot [WINKING FACE]

Coley


----------



## n0legs

A "shabby chic" *( :roll: )* post box for my girls big day this Friday.
She saw it somewhere, provided dad with a picture and the instructions "make this".
Ain't got a clue what she'll do with it after, I don't want it back :lol:


----------



## MBcarpentry

Nice idea


----------



## DTR

Pair of sawhorses


----------



## Jonzjob

They should do the job well Dave. I have a couple of cheepo metal ones that are going to be put to use soon. I have to make 2 curtain poles, about 2" dia. Possible to buy, but at 2.5 metres long there are almost 200 beer token each + postage out here !! 8) 8) A 3 metre X 50mm-ish plank is about 70 wine tokens and no postage!! Should be fun getting bits of an 8" wide plank into 2" doweling


----------



## whiskywill

MBcarpentry":2ffbb8zo said:


> couple of days



That is the way to do it. We are British and not American, after all.


----------



## custard

Simo":34s44fsr said:


> Just finished this Beech and Black Walnut chopping board. It was my first attempt at making an end grain board, but I'm fairly happy with how it turned out.. although it did make me wish I had a table/track saw to make life easier



Nice tight glue lines, very clean chamfering, precise alignment. 

Doesn't get better!

=D>


----------



## woodaxed

variety in my designs makes them more unique so the posted pics are the same design but altered















all made from american maple and walnut


----------



## Jonzjob

Those are some very classy bandsaw boxes WA!! I haven't made any for ages. What blade do you use, 1/4" 6 tooth skip??

Nice one mate!!


----------



## woodaxed

thanks i use a 1/8" 14tpi thin blade 0.018" i get the blades from Dakin Flathers


----------



## Jonzjob

I've never used smaller than a 1/4" 6 skip. It does all of the jobs I need, but then I have not tried owt quite like yours. 

This is one of the last ones I made. It's a money box and before we moved over it was always a popular thing at craft fairs. I did all of the letters asked for









But this is my favourite. The ear comes off to get at the millions inside :mrgreen:


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

As I'm lacking useable wall space I threw together this mobile clamp rack from spare structural timber I had lying around. Going to come in really handy! Will also make a permanent container on the bottom for things like glue.


----------



## DennisCA

custard":2a0vl19i said:


> Simo":2a0vl19i said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished this Beech and Black Walnut chopping board. It was my first attempt at making an end grain board, but I'm fairly happy with how it turned out.. although it did make me wish I had a table/track saw to make life easier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice tight glue lines, very clean chamfering, precise alignment.
> 
> Doesn't get better!
> 
> =D>
Click to expand...


I agree I am especially impressed with the sharpness of it all.

I needed a meat pounder so I made one from a piece of oak and rowan wood for a handle:
















Quite please with it, a small and handy little mallet, I think I should make another for use with a chisel.


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Jonzjob, they're brilliant =D> 
:arrow: Sawdust=manglitter, good rack mate =D> 
:arrow: DennisCA, nice one =D>


----------



## beganasatree

HI Woodaxed,
I have looking at Alexams boxes and now yours and I think that it is time for me to have a go but I dont think my saw would take such a small blade (sip-14")what saw do you use??

Peter.


----------



## defsdoor

beech1948":2i4v4q3p said:


> defsdoor":2i4v4q3p said:
> 
> 
> 
> "knocked" this up over the weekend - no skills required (not a joint in sight) and I was scavenging for scraps close to the end  The plywood I had for this is terrible - mostly gaps and wafer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are the black boxes in the rolling cabinet. I'm looking for some storege ideas.
> 
> Al
Click to expand...


Hi 

Sorry I missed your reply till now 

They are Stanley Fatmax XL Pro Organiser 1-93-293

I bought some a long time ago from Costco when they were significantly cheaper than anywhere else. Since then have refused to pay anything more than that - even though I wanted more. They are good and sturdy - unlike the slightly cheaper Fatmax alternatives.

Got the remaining 6 from my-tool-shed.co.uk for 20quid a piece. http://www.my-tool-shed.co.uk/p13843/St ... _info.html

I've also printed out some different trays for them to hold some of my more fiddly bits. Am looking at dividing them vertically in some cases also. http://blog.defsdoor.org/fatmax-storage ... ble-trays/


----------



## woodpig

Carbide lathe tool. £5.00 for the insert and about £1.80 for the steel, 12p for the Torx screw. :lol: I may turn an Ash handle for it but in the meantime I'll use one of my collet handles.


----------



## Ttrees

Cobbled a few gooseneck lamps together 
Nowhere near as great a design as the angle poise though.
Its not possible to stretch over and point downwards 
so guessing it has to be like this to not blind you /not collapse .
Maybe its more suited to being behind you , provided you don't touch it ..
at least Ive clearing some of the clutter up 
Tom


----------



## ColeyS1

I made these crates a while ago and finally found a use for them 








My workmate kindly donated the brace and a coach screw in the end fits the jack which was also a gift from a very nice chaps scrap metal pile ( Thanks Tom) 
The idea was to put a second layer of timber on the back for strength and also to tie the stiles of the doors together. Unfortunately it's outside now and I'm not sure I can be bothered :lol: 
All the wood was leftover from random jobs so the only real cost was the polycarbonate and the removable pin hinges. Just need nature to silver it a bit now, and the seeds to start growing !

Cheers
Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Aggrajag

Here's my latest Schwibbogen, designed by my better half and I for her friend using CorelDraw and Googled clipart/silhouettes. Took me 10 hours including the cutting (6.55mm Birch Ply,) varnishing, gluing and wiring. It's 35cm x 19cm in size.


----------



## Claymore

Lovely work
Brian


----------



## NazNomad

My wooden version of the Bedlam Cube puzzle.

There IS a use for scraps after all.


----------



## Jonzjob

Looks interesting!!

My effort today was to take a square stick and make it round





2" square 3.1 metres long to 2" and 2.6 metres long. I have another one to do as well, as soon as I get some more belts for my Bosch sander. The old ones kept on giving up and breaking at the join. I can't understand it? They were only about 12 years old :shock: :shock: 

They will be the new curtain poles for our lounge window, 5 metres wide. At the moment we have 35mm poles and they ain't strong enough, but would make a quite reasonable bow! I am also making the rings, all 40 and the fitments too. this is it


----------



## NazNomad

Made this for my Mum's birthday.


----------



## Aggrajag

That's really nice Naz.


----------



## DiscoStu

Jonzjob":3mvqoetr said:


> Looks interesting!!
> 
> My effort today was to take a square stick and make it round
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2" square 3.1 metres long to 2" and 2.6 metres long. I have another one to do as well, as soon as I get some more belts for my Bosch sander. The old ones kept on giving up and breaking at the join. I can't understand it? They were only about 12 years old :shock: :shock:
> 
> They will be the new curtain poles for our lounge window, 5 metres wide. At the moment we have 35mm poles and they ain't strong enough, but would make a quite reasonable bow! I am also making the rings, all 40 and the fitments too. this is it



Wow! You're making them round by sanding? How long is that taking?

This is one of those jobs that you'll spend hours and hours on and almost nobody will appreciate the effort when they see the end result. Could you not take the edges off on a bandsaw to start with? 

I suspect the rings will take you some time as well. How will you do them?


----------



## Jonzjob

I took about an hour to do that one Stu. I mark them out to an octagon with a mortice gauge then form the octagon with my eleky planer. Then it's a simple job to just take the small corners off my my belt sander and finish it with my random orbit sander.

The rings are done now, all 42. :shock: 

I cut 3 1/4" square blocks from the remainder of the beech plank the poles are from and turned a very small spigot on one face to mount it on my lathe. There's a description on the turning forum here pinch-chuck-t96988.html

The mounting fittings were turned the same way and I am just waiting for a 2" forstner bit to arrive from Axminster and I can finish them. I decided it was easier than turning the 2" holes as ti would have meant making yet another pinch chuck. Then they all have to be stained and sealed :? 

Before we moved over here I had a commission from a hotel to turn 5 dozen serviette rings. That was fun? Another was for a falconry centre who wanted 5 dozen wooden eggs. Five sizes from a kestrel to a golden eagle. I couldn't look a boiled egg in the eye for weeks :roll: :roll:


----------



## monkeybiter

A double height shirt rack with space for shoe storage, for use in a tight space where high-rise is the only option.


----------



## custard

monkeybiter":3lus9yk6 said:


> A double height shirt rack with space for shoe storage



That's a good, practical item to make that will exercise jointing skills. 

=D>


----------



## DiscoStu

I've posted this elsewhere but I finished making the staircase to my daughters loft bed. The "staircase" is a series of hidden drawers with push to open runners. So we might actually be able to get to her bed now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mind_the_goat

DTR":gz2ocwu7 said:


> Fresh from the lathe, a slightly over-engineered aluminium bracket for the headlight on SWMBO's bicycle



Nice work, but can you make sure it's angled to light the road, not to blind oncoming motorists ;-)


----------



## DennisCA

New insert for the table saw, unfortunately my table saw has the blade so close to one edge of the opening that it cannot be ZCI on both sides:


----------



## monkeybiter

DennisCA":gb8ylocl said:


> New insert for the table saw, unfortunately my table saw has the blade so close to one edge of the opening that it cannot be ZCI on both sides



Can you not put spacers on the arbour to bring the blade further away from that cast iron??


----------



## DennisCA

The arbor on the saw is too short to allow for that. Just the way this saw was designed. I've learned to live with it.


----------



## monkeybiter

I suppose you could lay a sheet of waxed MDF on the whole saw table, make a new access port in then and then a ZCI to fit. Not a lot of bother if you wanted to.


----------



## DennisCA

That would interfere with the sliding table. What could be done is I make an arbor adapter that is longer. This arbor is 20mm so I could make an adapter for 30mm that would be longer and then I could have a longer distance. But it's far future project.


----------



## Beau

DennisCA":8a45o33h said:


> New insert for the table saw, unfortunately my table saw has the blade so close to one edge of the opening that it cannot be ZCI on both sides:



Sorry Dennis but that looks a bit dangerous (not your insert). If an off cut went astray the blade could get pushed against the cast doing who knows what to blade and you! Is it an old Multico? Just looks very like my old machine and the blade was nowhere near the edge of the opening. Can't imagine it was originally designed like that so must be some way to get the blade better centred.


----------



## DennisCA

Nope it was designed that way from the beginning. German Rapid PK-100. It was common during that time in the 70s for saws like these. Blades have bitten into the side before, it is soft cast iron so likely the only results are scars on the saw and a dull blade. I think the danger aspect is way overstated. It's just a nuisance.


----------



## monkeybiter

DennisCA":3np6k94u said:


> What could be done is I make an arbor adapter that is longer. This arbor is 20mm so I could make an adapter for 30mm that would be longer and then I could have a longer distance.



That's something I've also considered, but in my case to accommodate a dado head.


----------



## DennisCA

Yeah I would get dual purpose out of it


----------



## Doris

This years big project almost completed. Trojan Horse. The horse itself made from Walnut worktop and sat on an oak trolley (mostly made by DTR after my rubbish attempts failed). The wheels are made from mahogany and 15 little soldiers are carved from lime offcuts. They are housed in two drawers sat in the base

Some of you may remember I made a thread some months back about how to hide the soldiers in the belly. Many suggestions were quite ingenious but at the same time complex so resorted for the simple route in the end.





"Family Photo" prior to burning down Troy.





Drawers Opened





Inside the belly





Group shot of 10 of the 15 soldiers. 5 pence piece to give a sense of scale





Quite pleased with my archers


----------



## monkeybiter

Excellent! Best yet Doris. You should be very pleased with yourself.


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Doris,
WOW!! Freaking wow! Just wow, those archers are awesome =D> =D> =D>


----------



## Phil Pascoe

DennisCA":2rshbz97 said:


> Nope it was designed that way from the beginning. German Rapid PK-100. It was common during that time in the 70s for saws like these. Blades have bitten into the side before, it is soft cast iron so likely the only results are scars on the saw and a dull blade. I think the danger aspect is way overstated. It's just a nuisance.


It was designed like that from the beginning? Why have an insert at all? Why not have it nearly chewing both sides? Even it up a bit. 
Sorry, that cannot be right.


----------



## monkeybiter

phil.p":1yp2wn1k said:


> DennisCA":1yp2wn1k said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, that cannot be right.
Click to expand...


Have a look on google images, plenty of examples to confirm there's no ill-fitted table/motor etc., it may be crazy but it seems to be the way it was designed.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Yes ... but because there are plenty of images doesn't make it right though. :lol:


----------



## Nelsun

Doris":23c32b2g said:


> This years big project almost completed. Trojan Horse. The horse itself made from Walnut worktop and sat on an oak trolley (mostly made by DTR after my rubbish attempts failed). The wheels are made from mahogany and 15 little soldiers are carved from lime offcuts. They are housed in two drawers sat in the base
> 
> Some of you may remember I made a thread some months back about how to hide the soldiers in the belly. Many suggestions were quite ingenious but at the same time complex so resorted for the simple route in the end.



Oh that ticks so many boxes. Very well done! Love the style of it too which is sometimes harder than nailing the technical aspects. Be sure and keep it away from children


----------



## MattRoberts

Here's my side board with reclaimed oak sliding doors.


----------



## Chip shop

Doris":1iz2ai4b said:


> This years big project almost completed. Trojan Horse. The horse itself made from Walnut worktop and sat on an oak trolley (mostly made by DTR after my rubbish attempts failed). The wheels are made from mahogany and 15 little soldiers are carved from lime offcuts. They are housed in two drawers sat in the base
> 
> Some of you may remember I made a thread some months back about how to hide the soldiers in the belly. Many suggestions were quite ingenious but at the same time complex so resorted for the simple route in the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Family Photo" prior to burning down Troy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawers Opened
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside the belly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Group shot of 10 of the 15 soldiers. 5 pence piece to give a sense of scale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quite pleased with my archers



WOW! The spearmen look pretty good also. I wish I had the skill and patience to turn out stuff like that.

Back down to earth...here's the last of a million (ish) windows I've made recently. If I never see another anther piece of glazing bar it'll be too soon.


----------



## adidat

Doris that is excellent!!

Adidat


----------



## stuffimade

So i made this router table mobile dust port





*click to play the video*


----------



## Doris

Thank you everyone for the lovely comments. A video of how I did the figures can be seen here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDUnMdC ... e=youtu.be


----------



## Jonzjob

Doris, that is VERY impressive and ta for making the video to go with it!!

The complete project is great. I love it!

Is it hollow :mrgreen: :mrgreen: 

An aside. When I opened the page to reply it has gone about a mile wide :shock: :shock:


----------



## DiscoStu

Doris - looks amazing - is it for something specific?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DTR

The blade tensioner thingy on my Dad's cheapo mitre saw has stripped its thread.... so I made a new one


----------



## Woodchips2

Looks a good job Dave, well done =D> 

Your Dad should be able to get some decent tension on the blade now (hammer) 

Regards Keith


----------



## sitefive

Doris":25u4xig6 said:


> This years big project almost completed. Trojan Horse. The horse itself made from Walnut worktop and sat on an oak trolley (mostly made by DTR after my rubbish attempts failed). The wheels are made from mahogany and 15 little soldiers are carved from lime offcuts. They are housed in two drawers sat in the base
> 
> Some of you may remember I made a thread some months back about how to hide the soldiers in the belly. Many suggestions were quite ingenious but at the same time complex so resorted for the simple route in the end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Family Photo" prior to burning down Troy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drawers Opened
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside the belly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Group shot of 10 of the 15 soldiers. 5 pence piece to give a sense of scale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quite pleased with my archers



sweet!
Btw you should change your profile pic, pretty much everytime I see you posting I think that some insanely obese women named doris is making all the stuff!
at least by watching the video I can see that it isn't the case!


----------



## Jonzjob

Sight5 I have no idea what you are on about, but I bet you ain't been on anything legal mate   

I have no idea what it has to do with that lovely Trojan horse?

Are you the blonde stood in front of the tractor? :roll: :roll:


----------



## monkeybiter

Jonzjob":1qwbp1c6 said:


> Sight5 I have no idea what you are on about,
> 
> I have no idea what it has to do with that lovely Trojan horse?



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDUnMdC_9kQ&feature=youtu.be


----------



## thetyreman

here's a small oak chopping board I made today, all with handtools, I was going for a rustic look.


----------



## Doris

DiscoStu":3t5dtxbs said:


> Doris - looks amazing - is it for something specific?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Nope. I do an heirloom piece every year and this year I decided to do a trojan horse. Last year it was a Noah's Ark.


----------



## Jonzjob

Jonzjob":2nk9ltem said:


> Looks interesting!!
> 
> My effort today was to take a square stick and make it round
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2" square 3.1 metres long to 2" and 2.6 metres long. I have another one to do as well, as soon as I get some more belts for my Bosch sander. The old ones kept on giving up and breaking at the join. I can't understand it? They were only about 12 years old :shock: :shock:
> 
> They will be the new curtain poles for our lounge window, 5 metres wide. At the moment we have 35mm poles and they ain't strong enough, but would make a quite reasonable bow! I am also making the rings, all 40 and the fitments too. this is it



Well, they are done now and I am quite chuffed wit them. The whole lot was stained with a dark stain with Some French name :? To do the rings I just screwed the little eye rings in them and dunked them in the stain. Then hung up to dry. It worked a treat





Everything was given a coat of hard wax oil and some intercristaline wax from Chestnut and the only worry I have is that when you draw the curtains they won't stop. They slide very easily!













Lovely drying weather out there today but it only got to 22ºC :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


----------



## JonnyD

Gloss kitchen with wenge panelled backspash. Nice to make something for myself for a change. 





Cheers

Jon


----------



## ColeyS1

JonnyD":2dx8fy84 said:


> Gloss kitchen with wenge panelled backspash. Nice to make something for myself for a change.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Jon


That looks stunning ! Very clean crisp and shiny  tiles look really smart too  job well done.

Coley


----------



## chippy1970

American white oak 2x1 I fitted to a new kitchen island to liven it up a bit.

Finished yesterday ready to be filled and oiled. 102 mitres.













Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk


----------



## memzey

JonnyD":25o2j94k said:


> Gloss kitchen with wenge panelled backspash. Nice to make something for myself for a change.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Jon


Stunning. 10 out of 10. I so wish I could do something like that.


----------



## gregmcateer

memzey":35w9tf4p said:


> JonnyD":35w9tf4p said:
> 
> 
> 
> Gloss kitchen with wenge panelled backspash. Nice to make something for myself for a change.
> 
> 
> 
> Stunning. 10 out of 10. I so wish I could do something like that.
Click to expand...


Ditto x 10 - THat really is unique and impressive. =D>


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: JonnyD. Fair play mate, bloody lovely =D>


----------



## lurker

sitefive":3rhvqbz3 said:


> [Btw you should change your profile pic, pretty much everytime I see you posting I think that some insanely obese women named doris is making all the stuff!
> at least by watching the video I can see that it isn't the case!



It’s called self depreciating irony, we British are rather good at it; foreigners are unlikely to understand.

Doris lovely work as usual


----------



## ColeyS1

A few more bits for the garden









I've had the wheelbarrow for some time so it's good to see someone using it :mrgreen: 




A stand for the galvanised tank. I used stainless coach screws on the sides and back but put steel ones in the front. Hopefully it'll start rusting soon !

Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## NazNomad

THIS IS SPARTA!!!!!!!

Little bit of scrolling, little bit of turning.


----------



## Woodchips2

That's very useful and quirky Naz, well done :lol: =D> 

Regards Keith


----------



## Wuffles

NazNomad":ybyy18jp said:


> THIS IS SPARTA!!!!!!!
> 
> Little bit of scrolling, little bit of turning.



From the knife block design? Think I prefer yours.


----------



## Bm101

Naz I want credit for that lol.


----------



## monkeybiter

I like that! Excellent.


----------



## NazNomad

I found it on a 3D printing site and 'borrowed' the idea. It IS like the knife block though.

http://us.gallery.xyzprinting.com/us_en ... 8121071108


----------



## DTR

Brilliant :lol:


----------



## Jonzjob

Jonzjob":2d0v3e7z said:


> Jonzjob":2d0v3e7z said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks interesting!!
> 
> My effort today was to take a square stick and make it round
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2" square 3.1 metres long to 2" and 2.6 metres long. I have another one to do as well, as soon as I get some more belts for my Bosch sander. The old ones kept on giving up and breaking at the join. I can't understand it? They were only about 12 years old :shock: :shock:
> 
> They will be the new curtain poles for our lounge window, 5 metres wide. At the moment we have 35mm poles and they ain't strong enough, but would make a quite reasonable bow! I am also making the rings, all 40 and the fitments too. this is it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, they are done now and I am quite chuffed wit them. The whole lot was stained with a dark stain with Some French name :? To do the rings I just screwed the little eye rings in them and dunked them in the stain. Then hung up to dry. It worked a treat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything was given a coat of hard wax oil and some intercristaline wax from Chestnut and the only worry I have is that when you draw the curtains they won't stop. They slide very easily!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lovely drying weather out there today but it only got to 22ºC :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Click to expand...


Finally finished and fitted today!! A slight problem with the central rail fittting as the original owner had fitted a 1/4" square door handle connecting rod into the wall to take the weight of the fitting. Very strong but a pain in the sitapon!!





SWMBO is reet chuffed with it, as am I!! The finish of hard wax oil then intercrystaline wax on both the rail and rings makes the curtains wizzzzzzz along the rail!!


----------



## Steve Maskery

I've made a drying rack.






Full write-up Here


----------



## Simo

Just finishing up this fretless bass guitar today.. the main body wood is Black Walnut, with an English Walnut bookmatched top. The neck is made from 3 pieces of Maple with some Black Walnut strips in between, and the fingerboard is Ebony lined with Maple veneer.


----------



## n0legs

Simo":3u1lxkr8 said:


> Just finishing up this fretless bass guitar today.. the main body wood is Black Walnut, with an English Walnut bookmatched top. The neck is made from 3 pieces of Maple with some Black Walnut strips in between, and the fingerboard is Ebony lined with Maple veneer.




Gorgeous =D>


----------



## Jonzjob

I do like banjos, but besides that. That is a beautiful piece of wood put together perfectly. Like it!!

I love the grain in black walnut!


----------



## thetyreman

Simo":38xkz9l6 said:


> Just finishing up this fretless bass guitar today.. the main body wood is Black Walnut, with an English Walnut bookmatched top. The neck is made from 3 pieces of Maple with some Black Walnut strips in between, and the fingerboard is Ebony lined with Maple veneer.



that's incredible! what finish did you use? the walnut top looks beautiful


----------



## Simo

thetyreman":1o06raj0 said:


> that's incredible! what finish did you use? the walnut top looks beautiful



Thanks.. I used a varnish/oil blend (wiped on), 1/3 polyurethane based varnish, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 white spirit.


----------



## Cinimod

=D> =D> =D> Stunning................dom


----------



## Jonzjob

I do love the finish on the guitar!!

This is something that I finished off with a polish this morning. It's the second time I have maed egg cups like this. The 1st was for a turning challenge. They didn't get anywhere and the only comment about them was that they weren't very hygienic and would be difficult to clean! That was not part of the challenge which was 4 egg cups, all the same? I haven't bothered with the challenge since. I just get on with doing what I like doing, hygienic or not 8) 8) 





The eggs fit too :shock: 









Beech wood, the same as I made the curtail fittings from. Hard wax oil and intercrystaline wax to finish.. I like them :? :?


----------



## monkeybiter

Jonzjob":2151iqa9 said:


> I like them :? :?



Me too!


----------



## ColeyS1

I like the egg cups ! They kinda look like super heavy eggs that have caused the cups to squish/twist. I'd love to be able to make something as good as that on the lathe 

Coley


----------



## Jonzjob

If you can turn egg cups then you could do the same Coley. It's just a case of making the basic shapes and careful marking for the drilling. I use a Forstner bit to drill the holes. 

These were the originals





And this shows the twst better. Fun to make too!!


----------



## NazNomad

monkeybiter":5buh7scc said:


> Jonzjob":5buh7scc said:
> 
> 
> 
> I like them :? :?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Me too!
Click to expand...


Me three, they're superb.


----------



## Woodmonkey

Simo":1k9cyvta said:


> Just finishing up this fretless bass guitar today.. the main body wood is Black Walnut, with an English Walnut bookmatched top. The neck is made from 3 pieces of Maple with some Black Walnut strips in between, and the fingerboard is Ebony lined with Maple veneer.



Stunning, would love to see some more pictures


----------



## MattRoberts

Baby changing unit done!


----------



## MarkDennehy

Looks good! 
(Small suggestions? Put a 1-2" tall fence around the top to keep the changing wedge/cushion/thingy in place and take every arris on it off because they tend to find your knees during those 3am changings  )


----------



## MattRoberts

That's a great idea. How's about this?


----------



## Roughcut

MattRoberts":1vkvhc3o said:


> That's a great idea. How's about this?




Looks good!
It's worth applying a few coats of laquer or poly to the top (if you haven't already done so) as it will repel any spilt liquids and also make it super easy to clean.


----------



## MattRoberts

I've used briwax on the top - do you think that would be enough, or should I put something over it. Will water based poly adhere to wax?


----------



## Wuffles

I've waxed a table top in the past and it hasn't I'm afraid. I'm going to get some Manns wax and polish remover and start again...one day when I have nothing better to do with my time.


----------



## Roughcut

MattRoberts":2yok4hfu said:


> I've used briwax on the top - do you think that would be enough, or should I put something over it. Will water based poly adhere to wax?



Sorry can't help you there as I've never done it but I would just give it a quick sand.
And I've just found in the back of the garage the stuff I used on ours, it was just a cheap interior clear varnish from screwfix same as this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-q ... /30824#_=p
I believe I just brushed it on after I had stained the top, but glad I did as it makes it so easy to clean.


----------



## MarkDennehy

MattRoberts":3a8iop2n said:


> That's a great idea. How's about this?



Looks a damn sight better than the not-cheap-at-all piece of MDF mothercare garbage I've been using


----------



## MattRoberts

Roughcut":3aybcjs5 said:


> MattRoberts":3aybcjs5 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've used briwax on the top - do you think that would be enough, or should I put something over it. Will water based poly adhere to wax?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry can't help you there as I've never done it but I would just give it a quick sand.
> And I've just found in the back of the garage the stuff I used on ours, it was just a cheap interior clear varnish from screwfix same as this one:
> http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-q ... /30824#_=p
> I believe I just brushed it on after I had stained the top, but glad I did as it makes it so easy to clean.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, the wax is providing the colour  I guess I'll just have to see how it wears, cheers


----------



## MattRoberts

MarkDennehy":2x3lk47j said:


> Looks a damn sight better than the not-cheap-at-all piece of MDF mothercare garbage I've been using
> 
> View attachment 2016



Thanks very much


----------



## Jonzjob

I am a great fan of hard wax oil. I recently did a kitchen island beech top that I had made. It seems fairly bullet proof and looks as it did when I did it a few months back.


----------



## ED65

MattRoberts":dbkyusc1 said:


> I've used briwax on the top - do you think that would be enough, or should I put something over it. Will water based poly adhere to wax?


As a rule nothing sticks to wax except wax. Wax by itself is the least of all wood finishes but for things seeing light use it can be perfectly adequate. Just need to keep to a repolishing schedule to top it up periodically as it wears away.

If you did want to refinish with something else the bulk of the wax can be removed with white spirit or turps, and plenty of kitchen paper or clean cloths. Once the wood is nearly clean you could probably varnish successfully (with real varnish, not water-borne) but most would sand or scrape back to pristine wood to be on the safe side.

Congrats on the new sprog BTW!


----------



## Wuffles

MattRoberts":2omoka1a said:


> Roughcut":2omoka1a said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MattRoberts":2omoka1a said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've used briwax on the top - do you think that would be enough, or should I put something over it. Will water based poly adhere to wax?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry can't help you there as I've never done it but I would just give it a quick sand.
> And I've just found in the back of the garage the stuff I used on ours, it was just a cheap interior clear varnish from screwfix same as this one:
> http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-q ... /30824#_=p
> I believe I just brushed it on after I had stained the top, but glad I did as it makes it so easy to clean.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Unfortunately, the wax is providing the colour  I guess I'll just have to see how it wears, cheers
Click to expand...


Think maybe you missed this from earlier.



Wuffles":2omoka1a said:


> I've waxed a table top in the past and it hasn't I'm afraid. I'm going to get some Manns wax and polish remover and start again...one day when I have nothing better to do with my time.


----------



## MattRoberts

ED65":axrutnef said:


> MattRoberts":axrutnef said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've used briwax on the top - do you think that would be enough, or should I put something over it. Will water based poly adhere to wax?
> 
> 
> 
> As a rule nothing sticks to wax except wax. Wax by itself is the least of all wood finishes but for things seeing light use it can be perfectly adequate. Just need to keep to a repolishing schedule to top it up periodically as it wears away.
> 
> If you did want to refinish with something else the bulk of the wax can be removed with white spirit or turps, and plenty of kitchen paper or clean cloths. Once the wood is nearly clean you could probably varnish successfully (with real varnish, not water-borne) but most would sand or scrape back to pristine wood to be on the safe side.
> 
> Congrats on the new sprog BTW!
Click to expand...

Thanks very much!


----------



## MattRoberts

Wuffles":3rxnxn1l said:


> MattRoberts":3rxnxn1l said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roughcut":3rxnxn1l said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MattRoberts said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've used briwax on the top - do you think that would be enough, or should I put something over it. Will water based poly adhere to wax?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry can't help you there as I've never done it but I would just give it a quick sand.
> And I've just found in the back of the garage the stuff I used on ours, it was just a cheap interior clear varnish from screwfix same as this one:
> http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-q ... /30824#_=p
> I believe I just brushed it on after I had stained the top, but glad I did as it makes it so easy to clean.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Unfortunately, the wax is providing the colour  I guess I'll just have to see how it wears, cheers
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Think maybe you missed this from earlier.
> 
> 
> 
> Wuffles":3rxnxn1l said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've waxed a table top in the past and it hasn't I'm afraid. I'm going to get some Manns wax and polish remover and start again...one day when I have nothing better to do with my time.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Sorry, what hasn't what?


----------



## Wuffles

Yes, what a mess.



MattRoberts":2b34ufaf said:


> I've used briwax on the top - do you think that would be enough, or should I put something over it. Will water based poly adhere to wax?



My original response was to this, but forgot to quote and it spanned another page so it wasn't clear what I was talking about, which is about right.



Wuffles":2b34ufaf said:


> I've waxed a table top in the past and it hasn't I'm afraid. I'm going to get some Manns wax and polish remover and start again...one day when I have nothing better to do with my time.


----------



## MattRoberts

Got it, thank you for clarifying! I'll have a think about what I can do with it


----------



## mumble

Just made this for the local church.


----------



## Nelsun

Just plumbed in the last kitchen unit made using an old tabletop for the worktop and an inset sink with no draining board. Why make a sink like that I'll never know... but it was free from a friend. Anyroad, Here's the drainer I made out of some ash from the wood pile.

I decided against having the board itself sloping inside the sides (KISS!) and, instead, opted for some rubber feet recessed to different depths to provide a gentle (adjustable) slope and a wee bit of air gap underneath the thing.

The finish was a coat of Osmo conditioner with two coats of poly-x matt on top.


----------



## MMUK

Been a long time since my workshop was up and running (house move - twice! plus splitting up from wife, meeting someone else, getting engaged, etc.) but I felt left out so hopefully this will do. My gorgeous daughter Felicity, now 14 months old :mrgreen:


----------



## monkeybiter

She looks very happy, how it should be. [And so do you!]


----------



## n0legs

MMUK":2ttznic2 said:


> Been a long time since my workshop was up and running (house move - twice! plus splitting up from wife, meeting someone else, getting engaged, etc.) but I felt left out so hopefully this will do. My gorgeous daughter Felicity, now 14 months old :mrgreen:




Best days work you've ever done =D> 
Enjoy her, they ain't babies for long. 
My two princesses are 22 and 18, they terrify me :shock:


----------



## Bm101

Looks like she got a good upper cut developing. Watch out!


----------



## MMUK

monkeybiter":zq92ggh0 said:


> She looks very happy, how it should be. [And so do you!]



Haha, that's the boss in the picture, not me


----------



## MMUK

Bm101":2vrrwr74 said:


> Looks like she got a good upper cut developing. Watch out!



Indeed she has, I still have the bruises lol. She's at the "this" and "mine" stage at the mo, certainly a challenge. Wouldn't change her for the world.


----------



## mikefab

Finally installed my first sliding sash window.






Just need to fit the catch and paint the staff bead tomorrow. 

Oh. And put the kitchen sink back in!


----------



## Fitzroy

Super window! Took one of mine apart last week to decide if I could retrofit double glazing or would need new sashes and or boxes, think I'll be able to retrofit but doubt they will look as smart as yours.


----------



## mikefab

Thanks Fitzroy! Good luck!


Fitzroy":1kp8fogt said:


> Super window! Took one of mine apart last week to decide if I could retrofit double glazing or would need new sashes and or boxes, think I'll be able to retrofit but doubt they will look as smart as yours.


----------



## thetyreman

I've finally completed my nut bowl, finished with 4 layers of tung oil, 3-4 layers of dewaxed shellac, then some black wax to fill in the grain. Made with hand tools only.



OakNutBowl by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



OakNutBowl-2 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



OakNutBowl-3 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## MattRoberts

That's really nice! Practical too with the sloped insides. Nice one!


----------



## monkeybiter

Excellent carved bowl, unusual on here and nice to see.

How big is it?


----------



## thetyreman

monkeybiter":2gudvu84 said:


> Excellent carved bowl, unusual on here and nice to see.
> 
> How big is it?



thankyou!

It's 11" by 6" and about 2" deep


----------



## DTR

Well done, thetyreman =D>


----------



## Doris

Lovely bowl. Did you carve that by hand or with a power carver?


----------



## thetyreman

Doris":3v1p56fs said:


> Lovely bowl. Did you carve that by hand or with a power carver?



thanks, I used a gouge to carve it by hand, and spokeshave for the shape underneath, no power tools.


----------



## Sawyer

Chess box with drawer and hand made pieces: 4¼" king, 1¾" squares. Oak, mahogany and walnut.


----------



## monkeybiter

I don't know what's more impressive, the nicely formed pieces [the knights look good!] or your patience!


----------



## devonwoody

=D> =D> =D>


----------



## DTR

Sawyer, that is stunning =D>


----------



## ED65

Great job Sawyer, my dad would have been happy to trounce me on such a board :lol:


----------



## Woodchips2

Well done Sawyer =D> =D> =D> 

Guess that took you many hours :lol: 

Regards Keith


----------



## n0legs

I also must add my congratulations, Sawyer well done =D> =D>


----------



## Stanleymonkey

Undercover shed - like it




Setch":36fpwwrc said:


> This is my last project. It may look like a window seat but it's really an undercover shed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently erected a log cabin workshop in my garden, removing a little 6×4 shed in the process. The contents were not really welcome in my workshop, so they have been knocking around the conservatory getting in the way. Now they are tucked out of sight but still easy accessible when needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The T&G was recycled from my very dated kitchen. I liked the idea of recycling,but it was a massive PITA. Most of it was glued together by varnish, so I ended up having to machine grooves onto several lengths, and glue in replacement tongues.


----------



## n0legs

Display case for my brother's signed ball.


----------



## Bm101

n0legs":19xsbupv said:


> Display case for my brother's signed ball.



Cymru am byth!


----------



## n0legs

Bm101":3obvgf4m said:


> Cymru am byth!




Efallai :lol: 
Diolch yn fawr


----------



## Phil Pascoe

It's only a Welsh ball - couldn't you have got a good one?  






I put my hand on the Webb Ellis Cup (out of its case - it may well still have my fingerprint on it :shock: :shock: ) in a hotel bar one morning at about 4.00am when its bodyguard was (thankfully) distracted for a femtosecond (I was working). Its bodyguards were nice blokes - they disposed of a pita for me.  My boy was three at the time and we had our photos taken about two feet from it the following day, again out of its case (officially this time). He took the picture to school a few years later and I asked what his teacher said. I knew his teacher to be rugby mad, he'd taken a school team to Twickenham. He said oh, Mr. W? well ... he just stood looking at it shaking his head ...


----------



## MarkDennehy

That's pretty shoddy work there Bm, couldn't you have made the case fit the ball instead of squashing the ball down like that?


----------



## Bm101

Nolegs made it not me! I was just acknowledging that the ball was a lovely colour.


----------



## mind_the_goat

Sawyer":xhh9u6x9 said:


> Chess box with drawer and hand made pieces: 4¼" king, 1¾" squares. Oak, mahogany and walnut.



Fantastic work.
Is it for sale? That should get you a nice big cheque mate.


----------



## mind_the_goat

I made this door out of, well, a door.
We've had a doorless landing airing cupboard for about 6 years now, pretty impossible to find any sort of door the right size. After much recent 'encouragement' I finally made a start on it. This was my second attempt, the first was made from scratch, I cobbled together a frame from cheap wood from the local builders merchant (to match the cheap pine panel doors we already had). Used mortice and tenon joints all round and glued up some panels. I then got stuck on how to raise them to match the other doors. Expensive cutters and a new router to fit them (very tempting), or find someone local to do it for me. However before I had a chance to do that the panels bowed horribly. It was obvious why, but sometimes you can read all you like but there is no substitute for actual practice, next time I will do better. In the meantime I had spoken to local joiner, too busy to do the job but suggested using panels from an existing door. Now I had already considered this, and discounted it due to the size required and the jointing method used in a mass produced door, but he inspired me to think about it again. As it happens I had a space 6 panel door in the shed, so I set about dismantling it, It took a while but I got one stile off and got the panels out intact. I then had to shorted the rails, still attached to the other stile, and cut and mitre the inner profile on the rail so could but joint it back on with new dowels. The panels I cut and reassembled to the size needed. It's far from perfect but I'm really pleased with it. Now I just need to trim and hang it.

https://goo.gl/photos/SS8VHzGff5wqHT1g6


----------



## monkeybiter

A 'kennel' for Charley, from leftover fencing palings. Made a few days ago when the skytaps weren't on.


----------



## Doris

Fairy Castle cake topper. Was originally asked to make one for my friends daughters wedding but the commission fell through. Decided to make it anyway though. Mostly made on the lathe.






Also I made the wedding cake sat underneath. It didn't last very long though...


----------



## devonwoody

Joint effort my first piece of woodwork completed 2016, it was quite difficult remembering which end of a chisel to hold but I feel I succeeded in the end.

Crossstitch was the first one completed by my wife last year after her hospitalisation and then I went into a plaster cast for 8 weeks with Achillies heal.


----------



## Racers

Mmmm cake....

Nice castle as well.

Pete


----------



## ColeyS1

Finished the tumble dryer planter





Not sure the dog was too keen on being used for scale :lol: 





Coley


----------



## devonwoody

Super job and workmanship, what tool were the rebates cut with


----------



## Bm101

He looks so forlorn lol. 
'Why you laugh at Hooman. Is not good dog?'


----------



## Woodchips2

Well done Coley, that's a super doggy hot tub =D> =D> =D> 

Maybe you've started a new craze (hammer) 

Regards Keith


----------



## ColeyS1

devonwoody":269ve2az said:


> Super job and workmanship, what tool were the rebates cut with


Dw if that comment was meant for me than it means alot !! When I first signed up to ukworkshop many years ago I read endless posts of yours making fantastic things out of the smallest of offcuts. You've got an entire rack dedicated to what can be from small pieces of wood. 

Coley


----------



## devonwoody

ColeyS1":21vgwxas said:


> devonwoody":21vgwxas said:
> 
> 
> 
> Super job and workmanship, what tool were the rebates cut with
> 
> 
> 
> Dw if that comment was meant for me than it means alot !! When I first signed up to ukworkshop many years ago I read endless posts of yours making fantastic things out of the smallest of offcuts. You've got an entire rack dedicated to what can be from small pieces of wood.
> 
> Coley
Click to expand...



Memories, now I struggle to remember things like the formula for cutting rebated picture frames, age is just around the corner,and I am finding the tissue manufacturers have changed the dimensions (depth) of their boxes and I wonder if I will get many returns. I might need offcuts to tack to the bottom of many boxes.

Good times have been had in my workshop and even international invitations to visit fellow hobbyists abroad. (One comming to visit us in a few days time from Sydney)


----------



## ColeyS1

One of the things I like about forums is in theory all our posts should be around for many many years. I made several things for my workmates kids and it's nice now to be able to show him wip's of how it was made all those years ago . Some of it I'd already forgot !

That's a nuisance about them changing the box dimensions. So they've made the new boxes smaller ?
I remember also being fascinated by Wizers almost hunger for woodworking. He made it seem alright to be geeky/nerdy with wood. Im hoping he still dabbles.

It's nice to here woodworking has helped forge new international friends. Definitely easier to get on with some who shares similar interests.

D.W I did the rebates on the spindle just for ease and speed [WINKING FACE] time will tell if I've allowed a big enough gap, or whether it'll explode when it gets rained on 

Coley


----------



## Doris

I really like that planter. Where did you get the drum from?

Here's something I just finished Oak Owls turning on my lathe and then carved.


----------



## Beau

ColeyS1":2pjswzag said:


> Finished the tumble dryer planter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure the dog was too keen on being used for scale :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coley



Nice work Coley

Like the handrail offcuts for legs.


----------



## Arron

Doris":1jwxq4xi said:


> I really like that planter. Where did you get the drum from?
> 
> Here's something I just finished Oak Owls turning on my lathe and then carved.



you have a great talent! I especially like the Trojan horse you made =D>


----------



## monkeybiter

The owls are good Doris, nice attractive shape/style, have you put a finish on them?


----------



## Doris

Arron":352zeplv said:


> you have a great talent! I especially like the Trojan horse you made =D>



Thank you. Your kind words mean a lot  



monkeybiter":352zeplv said:


> The owls are good Doris, nice attractive shape/style, have you put a finish on them?



Yeah only a coat of linseed. I want to use something a bit more durable because they will be put outside eventually. I'm thinking yacht varnish, but something tells me they may look too shiny.


----------



## Aggrajag

My bank holiday weekend project thrown together for the grand old Wickes sum of £66.25, not counting screws and Gorilla glue. I'm VERY happy with them, they've created so much space and are obviously infinitely more sturdy and stable then the two Black & Decker Workmates I was struggling with before.


----------



## Benchwayze

Neat and sturdy. Nice one!

J


----------



## monkeybiter

Doris":1ek3qg4c said:


> monkeybiter":1ek3qg4c said:
> 
> 
> 
> The owls are good Doris, nice attractive shape/style, have you put a finish on them?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah only a coat of linseed. I want to use something a bit more durable because they will be put outside eventually.
> I'm thinking yacht varnish, but something tells me they may look too shiny.
Click to expand...


Have you tried carving after you've oiled, it can turn oak into cheese. 
Also it shows up all the surface blemishes, which can be a good thing, unless you've already declared it finished. #-o


----------



## xy mosian

Doris, those owls are brilliant. 
I am continually amazed at your ability to capture the essence of your subject without having to include fine detail. 
Then, of course, the foresight to 'see' just how a turning and carving can be so well combined. 
Well done, an inspiration.

xy


----------



## xy mosian

A very recent carving of mine.




This Pig is in Lime with American Black Walnut eyes. The finish is Shellac sealer with wax.
xy


----------



## monkeybiter

That's excellent Geoff; if it was bigger it would be very well done, but as small as that is very impressive.
I like that finish, it emphasises the contours well while still looking 'soft'.


----------



## xy mosian

Thanks Mike. I keep trying hoping to improve.
xy


----------



## memzey

That's an awesome little piggy Geoff. Very well done sir. Boggles my mind how some on here can bring bits of wood to life like you can when I struggle to saw and plane it square!


----------



## xy mosian

Thanks memzey, how I wish there were lines to cut to!

xy


----------



## Doris

xy mosian":3oa3ji1h said:


> Doris, those owls are brilliant.
> I am continually amazed at your ability to capture the essence of your subject without having to include fine detail.
> Then, of course, the foresight to 'see' just how a turning and carving can be so well combined.
> Well done, an inspiration.
> 
> xy



Why thank you.  

I love the pig. I can't carved facial features that well and so don't but take my that off to people who do. Did you do all that with a knife? It being Lime


----------



## xy mosian

Doris":1tx3cfut said:


> xy mosian":1tx3cfut said:
> 
> 
> 
> Doris, those owls are brilliant.
> I am continually amazed at your ability to capture the essence of your subject without having to include fine detail.
> Then, of course, the foresight to 'see' just how a turning and carving can be so well combined.
> Well done, an inspiration.
> 
> xy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why thank you.
> 
> I love the pig. I can't carved facial features that well and so don't but take my that off to people who do. Did you do all that with a knife? It being Lime
Click to expand...


Thank you Doris. I cannot say that everything was done with a knife, certainly the tools all had an edge, some being used as a small chisel. Oh and an occasional diamond needle file.
My choice of Lime was because I started in Box but I thought it would take too long. This little Piggy is going to France this weekend.
I have not really carved Box before which was really the reason for my question about Foredom reciprocating head use, see thread about dust.  

Since finishing the pig I have tried Box again and I can see many advantages, especially at this scale. My main problem seems to be in removal of largish chunks, perhaps it really is down to repetitious small cuts.

xy


----------



## DTR

New coat rack (sorry for the naff photo)


----------



## MDE

Chest of drawers - using fiddleback sycamore from a condemned tree in my garden. 



Most of the timber was rotten and fit only for firewood, but there were some very nice bits. 10 drawers all with dovetails front & back - phew!


----------



## devonwoody

MDE":3581dzgp said:


> Chest of drawers - using fiddleback sycamore from a condemned tree in my garden.
> Most of the timber was rotten and fit only for firewood, but there were some very nice bits. 10 drawers all with dovetails front & back - phew!



Looks good and dovetailing as well. Trust the wood is seasoned?


----------



## MattRoberts

MDE":19fgt1pk said:


> Chest of drawers - using fiddleback sycamore from a condemned tree in my garden.
> Most of the timber was rotten and fit only for firewood, but there were some very nice bits. 10 drawers all with dovetails front & back - phew!


Awesome work, looks ace. Ten dovetailed drawers? Sounds like a mammoth task!


----------



## MDE

MattRoberts":10i9hrs3 said:


> Awesome work, looks ace. Ten dovetailed drawers? Sounds like a mammoth task!





devonwoody":10i9hrs3 said:


> Looks good and dovetailing as well. Trust the wood is seasoned?


It did take a while, but I used the opportunity to perfect my method of making dovetails with a bandsaw. I can now do a set of dovetails to any design really quickly and neatly. The results of these efforts are now available for all to share (and feedback please) at http://www.perfectdovetails.co.uk .
Re seasoning the wood - sycamore doesn't require long seasoning, but this was the process: Stored the logs for about 6 months then quarter-sawed. Stacked the planks vertically inside to dry for a while, then stacked them outside (under cover) using new softwood battens to separate. Brought the required planks inside to acclimatise before dimensioning. Getting a smooth surface on this stuff was a challenge as the ripple makes tear-out a constant risk - I used a high-angle plane followed by much sanding. It was dead flat when I finished it, but now you can feel the ripple (still smooth though - so it's a really nice sensation). The ripple gives a sort of 3D holographic effect which is really attractive. I'm very pleased with the result from what I thought would be just firewood!


----------



## devonwoody

MDE Thanks for your reply to above


----------



## custard

MDE":16bv0a2n said:


> Chest of drawers - using fiddleback sycamore from a condemned tree in my garden.
> Most of the timber was rotten and fit only for firewood, but there were some very nice bits. 10 drawers all with dovetails front & back - phew!



Nice work, and doubly satisfying knowing that it's timber from your garden! You've done exceptionally well to keep the Sycamore as white as you have, I see plenty of Sycamore in commercial yards that has been professionally kilned but that is still too grey or too yellow for quality furniture.

=D>


----------



## donovanporter

some really nice items here


----------



## Baldhead

It's a long story as to why I've made this now, so I won't bore you with the details.
Made from European Oak, 2 coats of Sikkens HLS followed by 2 coats of Sikkens Filter 7, light sanding with 1000 wet or dry between coats.

Stew


----------



## dzj

Just when I thought I tried my hand at most things woodworking .


----------



## MattRoberts

dzj":2iwuqmmi said:


> Just when I thought I tried my hand at most things woodworking .


Nice work grasshopper


----------



## galleywood

MDE":3bwpgb2z said:


> MattRoberts":3bwpgb2z said:
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome work, looks ace. Ten dovetailed drawers? Sounds like a mammoth task!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> devonwoody":3bwpgb2z said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good and dovetailing as well. Trust the wood is seasoned?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It did take a while, but I used the opportunity to perfect my method of making dovetails with a bandsaw. I can now do a set of dovetails to any design really quickly and neatly. The results of these efforts are now available for all to share (and feedback please) at http://www.perfectdovetails.co.uk .
> Re seasoning the wood - sycamore doesn't require long seasoning, but this was the process: Stored the logs for about 6 months then quarter-sawed. Stacked the planks vertically inside to dry for a while, then stacked them outside (under cover) using new softwood battens to separate. Brought the required planks inside to acclimatise before dimensioning. Getting a smooth surface on this stuff was a challenge as the ripple makes tear-out a constant risk - I used a high-angle plane followed by much sanding. It was dead flat when I finished it, but now you can feel the ripple (still smooth though - so it's a really nice sensation). The ripple gives a sort of 3D holographic effect which is really attractive. I'm very pleased with the result from what I thought would be just firewood!
Click to expand...


As others have said - really nice dovetails.
I looked at your Perfect Dovetails website - you have put a lot of detailed work into it.
have you any plans to include a video of the method to give an overview?
Thanks


----------



## thomashenry

Face frame shaker cabinet for integrated Fridge/Freezer featuring a middle dividing stile, and inset doors hung on butt hinges, mortised on both sides.


----------



## MDE

galleywood":tj4p67ux said:


> As others have said - really nice dovetails.
> I looked at your Perfect Dovetails website - you have put a lot of detailed work into it.
> have you any plans to include a video of the method to give an overview?
> Thanks


When I get time, I think it would help to make a video. However, I don't have much experience in doing that, so it will be a bit of a learning process too. Meanwhile, I have tried to document the method as thoroughly as possible so that others can follow it. I hope that it is sufficiently well documented for others to use as I would like to get some feedback from others using the method. As far as I am aware, the method is completely unique in that it cuts pins and tails from a single template in a manner indistinguishable from hand cut dovetails. Perhaps I should also post the details elsewhere on this forum?


----------



## Roughcut

I was shown a picture and asked to knock one of these up this afternoon.
It's a "Traditional Coconut Shredder" (incase you were wondering)!


----------



## Benchwayze

I wouldn't have wanted want one of those on the tank of my old Road Rocket! :shock: :lol:


----------



## Roughcut

Benchwayze":1ajbr0uw said:


> I wouldn't have wanted want one of those on the tank of my old Road Rocket! :shock: :lol:



It'll take your dangly bits off if you're not careful I reckon. :shock:


----------



## Benchwayze

And that would be a real rough-cut! :lol:


----------



## Homerjh

some driftwood a niece brought back for the firepit, but decided to experiment and come out quite nice.

bottom of 2 were hand planed down, the 2'er was planed both sides and had danish oil applied, and the single was an experiment to see what it would look like 'on edge'.

so just getting back to hand planing as not done it for a while and worked really well i think, a 4th was given to my sister as they provided the wood.

probably couldn't retire off them when i get round to putting them on ebay (well why not) but interesting to see how they turned out.


----------



## MattRoberts

They look fantastic homer, nice one!


----------



## focusonwood

Hi All,

After making a bunch of stands and cabinets for my tools i have a lot of scrap plywood...it's cheap exterior ply so mostly wafer and gaps!

Anyway, I've been thinking of ways to use it up and the first project was a clock for my workshop;


----------



## n0legs

focusonwood":3q4s06f3 said:


> Hi All,
> 
> After making a bunch of stands and cabinets for my tools i have a lot of scrap plywood...it's cheap exterior ply so mostly wafer and gaps!
> 
> Anyway, I've been thinking of ways to use it up and the first project was a clock for my workshop;




Cool =D>


----------



## Homerjh

nice!


----------



## Cordy

Focus, I like the clock 

Good idea; very neat =D>


----------



## DTR

Very clever use of off cuts! =D>


----------



## thetyreman

I have just finished sanding a little milk stool, been working on it over the last couple of days, this is my first ever stool.

I am just waiting for the de-waxed shellac to dissolve and I'll finish it tomorrow, it's a paul sellers design, driving the wedges was tricky, I found the sapele compressed and almost snapped, let me know what you all think, 

regards, 

Ben.


----------



## Cordy

End-grain cutting board about 30 mm thick
Oak, Beech and Walnut -- treated with Olive Oil

Trying out my Makita thicknesser; used MDF sled to get timber flat


----------



## monkeybiter

The stool is irregular and imperfect, and I want to touch it and run my hands over it's uneven-ness. I love it.


----------



## thetyreman

here's the stool again with a layer of dewaxed shellac, and in daylight this time, next stage is to add tung oil.


----------



## Fitzroy

Love the stool, are the tenons and mortises straight sided or a continuation of the leg shape? One of the first things i made was a shoe rack, using a bunch of wedged mortice and tenons, by the time i wedged and glued i struggled to get much of the wedge in.


----------



## thetyreman

Fitzroy":f0byce4d said:


> Love the stool, are the tenons and mortises straight sided or a continuation of the leg shape? One of the first things i made was a shoe rack, using a bunch of wedged mortice and tenons, by the time i wedged and glued i struggled to get much of the wedge in.



thanks fitzroy, 

it's one singe piece of pine for the legs, I shaped it to fit the hole near the top, made a saw kerf then wedged in some sapele and once the glue set cut off the top, would that be still called a mortice and tenon joint? when I think of mortice and tenon, I can't help thinking of huge joists or doors/tables. I also struggled a bit with one of the wedges so it didn't quite go in as far, it was a lot of fun making this, it's encouraging to see your shoe rack, I have a long way to go yet, but my skills are slowly improving.


----------



## Wuffles

monkeybiter":2qscnhat said:


> The stool is irregular and imperfect, and I want to touch it and run my hands over it's uneven-ness. I love it.


Was that Gillian McKeith?

I also love the stool for the same reasons, and I'm also not a proper doctor.


----------



## monkeybiter

:? :lol:


----------



## n0legs

thetyreman":2x7rzx3d said:


> I have just finished sanding a little milk stool, been working on it over the last couple of days, this is my first ever stool.
> 
> I am just waiting for the de-waxed shellac to dissolve and I'll finish it tomorrow, it's a paul sellers design, driving the wedges was tricky, I found the sapele compressed and almost snapped, let me know what you all think,
> 
> regards,
> 
> Ben.



Very nice =D> 
Paul Sellars you say? Would one have a link?


----------



## thetyreman

n0legs":wkl0rzoh said:


> thetyreman":wkl0rzoh said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have just finished sanding a little milk stool, been working on it over the last couple of days, this is my first ever stool.
> 
> I am just waiting for the de-waxed shellac to dissolve and I'll finish it tomorrow, it's a paul sellers design, driving the wedges was tricky, I found the sapele compressed and almost snapped, let me know what you all think,
> 
> regards,
> 
> Ben.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice =D>
> Paul Sellars you say? Would one have a link?
Click to expand...


it's from one of his books actually, 'working wood 1 & 2' there's a video link to the 3 legged stool project here: https://vimeo.com/31152389. 

I'd highly recommend buying the book, for me as a beginner it's perfect, the projects get more complex as it goes on, similar to an apprenticeship style of learning which is why it appealed to me so much, even if you are a power tool user it would still be useful for learning traditional techniques, anyway I'm a massive fanboy and absolutely sold on his methods and techniques, thanks for your comments.


----------



## Buckeye

Made this wall cabinet from cherry and elm (drawer front and back slats). Copy of a piece by Michael Pekovich who writes for FWW http://www.pekovichwoodworks.com/furnit ... rk/4580764 

A few firsts for me like through tenons, half blind dovetails. Made a lot of mistakes but reasonably happy with the way it has turned out.











Also this Shaker bench in European oak made to help fit the kids around the kitchen table.


----------



## thetyreman

Buckeye":3dppqb7d said:


> Made this wall cabinet from cherry and elm (drawer front and back slats). Copy of a piece by Michael Pekovich who writes for FWW http://www.pekovichwoodworks.com/furnit ... rk/4580764
> 
> A few firsts for me like through tenons, half blind dovetails. Made a lot of mistakes but reasonably happy with the way it has turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also this Shaker bench in European oak made to help fit the kids around the kitchen table.



=D> that's awesome, great job mate


----------



## MarkDennehy

Love that bench. Nice clean lines to it.


----------



## custard

Buckeye":4o6eaksg said:


> Made this wall cabinet from cherry and elm (drawer front and back slats). Copy of a piece by Michael Pekovich who writes for FWW http://www.pekovichwoodworks.com/furnit ... rk/4580764
> 
> A few firsts for me like through tenons, half blind dovetails. Made a lot of mistakes but reasonably happy with the way it has turned out.



Excellent work Buckeye! You've made it to the place on the woodworking ladder where you can confidently produce attractive and well made furniture, that's a terrific achievement and the fun really begins from here on out!

=D> 

Just one tiny point, the wedges in the through tenons are going in the wrong direction, they're acting to split the grain of the side pieces apart. You've gotten away with it this time so no harm done, but next time flip them through 90 degrees and then you can hammer them home to your heart's content.


----------



## Buckeye

custard":2eo23qs7 said:


> Buckeye":2eo23qs7 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Made this wall cabinet from cherry and elm (drawer front and back slats). Copy of a piece by Michael Pekovich who writes for FWW http://www.pekovichwoodworks.com/furnit ... rk/4580764
> 
> A few firsts for me like through tenons, half blind dovetails. Made a lot of mistakes but reasonably happy with the way it has turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent work Buckeye! You've made it to the place on the woodworking ladder where you can confidently produce attractive and well made furniture, that's a terrific achievement and the fun really begins from here on out!
> 
> =D>
> 
> Just one tiny point, the wedges in the through tenons are going in the wrong direction, they're acting to split the grain of the side pieces apart. You've gotten away with it this time so no harm done, but next time flip them through 90 degrees and then you can hammer them home to your heart's content.
Click to expand...


Thanks Custard for the tip, I didn't know that. I definitely learned a lot in making those, hopefully cut down on the errors next time.


----------



## Homerjh

custard":3l2dcl19 said:


> Just one tiny point, the wedges in the through tenons are going in the wrong direction, they're acting to split the grain of the side pieces apart. You've gotten away with it this time so no harm done, but next time flip them through 90 degrees and then you can hammer them home to your heart's content.



that would be a PITA hammering and then the side splits (hammer) 

nice tip.


----------



## MarkDennehy

So what if they're quickly-knocked together sawhorses? They can still look pretty 












(plus, I don't have indoor storage for them, so the outdoor paint might give them another few months of life before they rot).


----------



## thetyreman

here's the stool again finished with a few layers of de-waxed shellac, it looks far better now.


----------



## NazNomad

Last thing I made ... 






No prizes awarded to the correct guess. :-D



Clue-ish: it's Maple.


----------



## DennisCA

thetyreman":20t3846t said:


> here's the stool again finished with a few layers of shellac, it looks far better now.



I love that design! Great work!


----------



## thetyreman

DennisCA":43zonsij said:


> thetyreman":43zonsij said:
> 
> 
> 
> here's the stool again finished with a few layers of shellac, it looks far better now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love that design! Great work!
Click to expand...


thanks, I can't take credit, it's a paul sellers design


----------



## thetyreman

NazNomad":l1ysplvo said:


> Last thing I made ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No prizes awarded to the correct guess. :-D
> 
> 
> 
> Clue-ish: it's Maple.



drawer handle?


----------



## Lignum

I made a towel rack, which is more or less the first thing I've made since my last woodworking lesson in school about 20-odd years ago.




Things I have learnt:

Cutting mortises for the first time ever probably would have been easier if they weren't only 6ml wide.
Can't help but feel that tenons aren't really meant to be wedge-shaped
Despite laborious picking out the straight bits of wood from homebase, they were in fact still crooked as a dog's hind leg
18mm dowel is not necessarily 18mm
Probably no-one needs a towel rack that's almost a metre wide
...but the dowels aren't glued and I do own a hammer...
The time to shape wood is probably not when you've already glued it all together
If I was doing it again I'd cut away some of the bottom pieces so it has feet, although whether that would stop it being off-level is beyond me.
Those bridle joints on top were meant to be mortice and tenon - I just didn't think it through very well.
Levering the waste out of the mortices crushed their edges. Note sure if this is a technique problem or just blancmange wood.
Pencil marks are harder to sand off than I thought.
Splitting. Just splitting.


----------



## n0legs

Lignum":2r0rill0 said:


> I made a towel rack, which is more or less the first thing I've made since my last woodworking lesson in school about 20-odd years ago.
> 
> Things I have learnt:
> 
> Cutting mortises for the first time ever probably would have been easier if they weren't only 6ml wide.
> Can't help but feel that tenons aren't really meant to be wedge-shaped
> Despite laborious picking out the straight bits of wood from homebase, they were in fact still crooked as a dog's hind leg
> 18mm dowel is not necessarily 18mm
> Probably no-one needs a towel rack that's almost a metre wide
> ...but the dowels aren't glued and I do own a hammer...
> The time to shape wood is probably not when you've already glued it all together
> If I was doing it again I'd cut away some of the bottom pieces so it has feet, although whether that would stop it being off-level is beyond me.
> Those bridle joints on top were meant to be mortice and tenon - I just didn't think it through very well.
> Levering the waste out of the mortices crushed their edges. Note sure if this is a technique problem or just blancmange wood.
> Pencil marks are harder to sand off than I thought.
> Splitting. Just splitting.




Nowt wrong with that =D> 
Carry on :lol:


----------



## Adam9453

one of the most useful things I was taught, was to rub pencil marks off with a normal eraser. Trying to sand them off is much more time consuming and difficult.
They explained the technical reasons why it was better to use an eraser but I can't remember what it was, I just know it works so I don't really need to know why lol.


----------



## woodbrains

Hello,

When cutting mortices, leave a mm or two at the ends, chop to full depth and any bruising will happen in the sliver of waste at the ends. Then pare away the those bits right at the last, to remove the bruised bit. Nice and crisp edges that way.

Mike.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

You are probably using a normally ground bevel edge chisel? That won't help make your mortices easier. ^^ as above, leave a couple of mil - also a shoulder will help. You may well find 18mm dowel will sag under the weight of damp bath towels.


----------



## custard

Lignum":3a3vwvs7 said:


> I made a towel rack, which is more or less the first thing I've made since my last woodworking lesson in school about 20-odd years ago.



Good for you Lignum. You've got all the important stuff right, i.e. you went into your workshop with some wood and came out with some furniture.

Woodworkers fall into two groups, those who _actually_ make stuff and those who _talk_ about making stuff. The first group are the only ones who ever show any improvement.


----------



## NazNomad

thetyreman":9g9cm877 said:


> drawer handle?



Nope, it's a thumb rest for a very expensive Rickenbacker bass which, according to its owner, was equipped with a too-small plastic version. He wanted a thicker one that matched the fretboard and I just happened to have a scrap of old flooring sample laying about.


----------



## thetyreman

NazNomad":16idvzun said:


> thetyreman":16idvzun said:
> 
> 
> 
> drawer handle?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, it's a thumb rest for a very expensive Rickenbacker bass which, according to its owner, was equipped with a too-small plastic version. He wanted a thicker one that matched the fretboard and I just happened to have a scrap of old flooring sample laying about.
Click to expand...


ah yes, makes sense now, I used to be a musician myself so know the feeling, when you invest in an instrument of that kind of quality, it's important.


----------



## Adam9453

custard":mqtinran said:


> Lignum":mqtinran said:
> 
> 
> 
> I made a towel rack, which is more or less the first thing I've made since my last woodworking lesson in school about 20-odd years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good for you Lignum. You've got all the important stuff right, i.e. you went into your workshop with some wood and came out with some furniture.
> 
> Woodworkers fall into two groups, those who _actually_ make stuff and those who _talk_ about making stuff. The first group are the only ones who ever show any improvement.
Click to expand...

+1 =D> 

I may not be the best but I give everything my best effort, thats all I can ever do.


----------



## mind_the_goat

Lignum":iqsdqig7 said:


> Things I have learnt:......



That's a big list and hence a very successful project


----------



## monkeybiter

Turned this:-





into this:-





Still untidy but a lot better, and a trial run for the other side of the workshop which may end up as 18' of cupboards.


----------



## stuffimade

A simple side table, just have to round over the sharp edges on the top and the bottom of the legs, final sanding, glue up the base, attach the top to the base, and then finish with a water based poly.


----------



## Racers

Nice table oak?

I personally wouldn't finish anything with water based poly, my default finish is Danish oil for most things especially oak.

Pete


----------



## stuffimade

Thanks Pete
Yes its Oak, i do have Danish Oil.
Why not water based poly? 
My knowledge of finishing is really poor so advice most welcome!!!



Racers":25ud7a50 said:


> Nice table oak?
> 
> I personally wouldn't finish anything with water based poly, my default finish is Danish oil for most things especially oak.
> 
> Pete


----------



## DTR

stuffimade":18kjj3ci said:


> Thanks Pete
> Yes its Oak, i do have Danish Oil.
> Why not water based poly?
> My knowledge of finishing is really poor so advice most welcome!!!



Just speaking for myself, Danish oil is my go-to on oak. I like the way it brings out the colour, and it gives the oak a nice sheen without being too glossy.


----------



## Racers

stuffimade":30at3tg2 said:


> Thanks Pete
> Yes its Oak, i do have Danish Oil.
> Why not water based poly?
> My knowledge of finishing is really poor so advice most welcome!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Racers":30at3tg2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice table oak?
> 
> I personally wouldn't finish anything with water based poly, my default finish is Danish oil for most things especially oak.
> 
> Pete
Click to expand...



The things I have finished in water based poly never seem to set hard and wash out the colour, Danish oil brings out the colour like DTR said and is easy to apply and refinish.



21st March by Racers, on Flickr

Pete


----------



## thetyreman

agree with Pete, danish oil does bring out the colour nicely, recently I tried pure tung oil, it looks amazing on oak, but is expensive, I think I prefer the pure tung oil slightly, either one would be a good choice!


----------



## Phil Pascoe

A couple of years ago I tried to get some info. as to the difference between Danish and finishing oil. (It's the resin content apparently) but I was advised by a lady from Liberon (iirc) that Danish was suitable for all hardwoods ... except oak. I inquired why that should be, but didn't get a follow up email and didn't pursue it. I've never had any problem with it on oak.
Btw - some Danish (Bestwood is one ) contains 50% tung.


----------



## Moonsafari69

My first attempt at a photo frame. Made in Oak and gave me a good chance to use the new router table, quite proud of the results.
Size is about 400 x 350mm. May have loads of router related questions to follow


----------



## Racers

Nice frame and a good mitre.

Pete


----------



## lurker

Very nice MS 
Where abouts are you 
I'm Loughborough


----------



## MattRoberts

Great looking frame! Nice one


----------



## Moonsafari69

lurker":3iflwl5t said:


> Very nice MS
> Where abouts are you
> I'm Loughborough



Just down the road in sunny Coalville 8)


----------



## NazNomad

A little 5½'' bowl, I believe it's Elm?

Best part is the base... No tenon, no recess, thanks to my new donut chuck.


----------



## woodpig

NazNomad":7tdsafok said:


> thanks to my new *donut chuck*



? :?


----------



## NazNomad

Doesn't sound right spelled in English, you have to use 'Mercan.


----------



## Woodchips2

Looks nice Naz, well done =D> =D> 

For those wondering about Donut chucks here is a video on how to make one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-10dXclT_4

Regards Keith


----------



## timbo614

My second ever post - A Doll House kit, how embarrasing is that!
Not really "made" but assembled and I did make the (unfinished) base, but I suppose we all get impatient to show something.

The base is simple framing with MDF sides and a plywood top. the Doors for the base are MDF too, both will have the mouldings picked out in a contrast colour to make it look vaguely Edwardian/Victorian.

Yes, altogether it is 6' tall! Bought for my wife by one of my daugthers. It wasn't on the top of my list by any means but I had to get it done because the contents of the kit had completely taken over the dining room - seven large and fairly heavy boxes. The kit is made from 9mm MDF and some type of very soft woood not balsa that gets close.

It was very fiddly - I assume these are normaly bought as a hobby. I was just instructed to build it by SWMBO. For example, although it can't be seen in the photos you have to assemble the balustrades and spindles of the staircases and the "stonework". Then "wallpapering", painting little bits and I even laid miniture solid wood floor boards (10mm x 1mm thick) one at a time 

I got this far by yesterday.


----------



## Bm101

Im impressed not just by the skills and the labour but by the fact you have giant 6 foot children.


----------



## NazNomad

Woodchips2":1yv5a0je said:


> Looks nice Naz, well done =D> =D>
> 
> For those wondering about Donut chucks here is a video on how to make one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-10dXclT_4
> 
> Regards Keith




... and they are a lot less likely to remove your knuckles than a Longworth chuck. :-D


I hadn't seen that video, I like the idea of the split pipe as a 'squishy bit' rather than the unsightly job I did with my anti-slip stuff.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I endured that music for the whole 14 mins 44 seconds. I am now ready to kill someone.  

By the bye ... I can't help thinking he made hard work of that. He's got a lathe ... you know, one of those machines that make things round. Why the bobbin sander? It's undoubtedly got some form of indexing to mark the holes, as well.


----------



## NazNomad

phil.p":23vr1rvf said:


> I endured that music for the whole 14 mins 44 seconds. I am now ready to kill someone.



Not a fan of the walking bass line then? :-D


----------



## ED65

phil.p":1w8s3yts said:


> By the bye ... I can't help thinking he made hard work of that. He's got a lathe ... you know, one of those machines that make things round. Why the bobbin sander?


I thought that was a bit odd too. I'd guess it's because of a perception that the plywood glue lines are so abrasive. They are very abrasive course, but not _that _bad and just truing up the outside edges of two rounds for a chuck like this you could immediately resharpen your skew again when you were done. I'd bet that if he were using carbide-tipped turning tools he'd have done it on the lathe.

He could also have saved time by shaping the two together rather than making one and then doing a second to match. All he'd need to do is gang together the two squares of plywood using double-sided tape or masking tape and superglue and he could have bandsawn and turned them both in one go.


----------



## BearTricks

Could you make a donut chuck out of MDF?

I want to make one as large as I can, but I don't quite have enough plywood left. I have plenty MDF however.


----------



## NazNomad

BearTricks":2pmy62h6 said:


> Could you make a donut chuck out of MDF?



Not sure about the strength of MDF, but I suppose if it was thick enough it would be ok. A donut chuck isn't going to be something you'll spin at a Million rpm anyway. Slow speed, light cuts...


----------



## beganasatree

Good question BearTricks,I have just made one to hold crown green bowls(L.V)for inserting clocks into, and I could use M D F to make other sized rings if mdf is suitable.

Peter.


----------



## gasman

Bedroom chest of drawers. MDF for the cabinet with southern yellow pine drawers and an oak top. The oak top slides back after releasing a lever inside the top drawer to reveal a baize lined compartment for the gentleman's shotgun

















It was a right b***** to make. It weighs well over 100kg the sides ended up being over 50mm thick due to the need to hide the slides in for the oak top. I massively underestimated the amount of time it would take me so it was an ongoing albatross round my neck until last Friday when I finished it off. Didn't help that the walls and floor it was on were not flat in any way! Lesson learnt
Cheers Mark


----------



## DTR

Wow, nice work, gasman =D>


----------



## n0legs

DTR":2wcg4xqj said:


> Wow, nice work, gasman =D>




Agreed, looks great =D>


----------



## Woodyuk

Some great photos here guys


----------



## Nelsun

I put the finishing touches to our new coffee table this weekend. It started out as three 8x4 oak sleepers which were "happily" ripped down the middle by hand and sweat and lots of swearing. I could likely have worked on them to get a flat face to get a machine blade to... but I likes a challenge (hammer) These were then left to sit in the living room for what felt like a lifetime (1 month). Any major splits were then butterflied using walnut splines.

Not trusting my el cheapo Titan 6" P/T I found myself ordering a Makita 2012NB thicknesser (thanks Barclaycard!) after reading its praises on here. Boy, is it quiet compared to the Titan. It worked like a trooper flattening (via various sized sleds + brackets + screws + wedges), squaring (by adding a fence to one of the flattening jigs) and then taking everything to final dimensions over a couple of stages. It did generate a few shavings!

It's joined using vertical pairs of different sized dominoes (in an attempt at being clever). All joins have an oversized 100x40x14 domino along with a normal 100x14 domino. The oversized dominos in the long sides are on the inside but on the outside in the shorter sides. With the smaller domino on the shorter sides being on the inside (this is making perfect sense isn't it) it pins the larger domino on the longer sides. If that makes any sense you're doing well. I then had a (literal) bash at making my own dowels with a plate and a hammer to pin the rest from the inside. I don't know how much stronger draw boring would've made things, but it was just too much to attempt at this stage.

One coat of Osmo wood protector and two coats of their clear matt poly-x were then lovingly applied to the frame. Those first 3 seconds of the first bit of finish going on to the bare wood is heavenly.

The top is a piece of 900x600x10mm slate which, for £16, was great as original plan involved making one out of concrete. Having a wee boy with only 5 years of wisdom inside him, I was more than concerned about excessive weight being placed in the centre of the table (the current table gets used as a launchpad onto the sofa) so I did my best to reinforce it. There's a 18mm layer of sealed MR-MDF and a 2x1 lattice frame to which the MDF is attached via brackets. Hopefully that should keep it rigid enough not to crack... hopefully. I'd left a 5mm gap between the frame and the slate which was then grouted. The grout claims it'll allow a certain amount of flex so I'm hoping any expansion in the frame won't pop the thing. The lattice frame underneath should also provide some resistance to inward pressures. It'll be fine.
I then gave the slate and grout 2 coats of a water based penetrating sealer. From what I could find, this was the way to go for good lasting protection that doesn't alter the appearance of the slate too much. Wine certainly wipes of nae bother :lol: 

From the mountain of offcuts I had I made some quick and nasty coasters and a thing to put them in. That will keep the little ones from scattering them to the four winds for sure.

Anyway, that's my brain-dump. apologies for the wall-of-text!


----------



## Aggrajag

Love it Nelsun, great work.


----------



## monkeybiter

Absolutely gorgeous, you've made that wood look lovely.


----------



## thetyreman

beautiful result, I love the look of the butterfly joints on the legs, nice photography as well, love the way you ripped the beams by hand, now that is hard work.


----------



## Cordy

Nelsun

 Fantastic workmanship =D> 
Really good !!

Glad you like the Makita :roll:


----------



## Woodchips2

Hi Nelsun, guess you don't need a gym membership after hand ripping 4" Oak :lol: 

It looks lovely, well done =D> =D> 

Presume it takes four of you to move it. (hammer) 

Regards Keith


----------



## MattRoberts

Looks fantastic! Any chance of some bigger photos? Live the coasters too!


----------



## Nelsun

Thanks very much for the kind words. It means a lot coming from folk that can appreciate the end result and how you got there. I'll need to rip the same amount again with the other arm to even things up!


----------



## Paul200

Some work there. Very, very nice


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Nelsun

Cracking job mate =D> 
That appeals to me, nice piece


----------



## ColeyS1

A new sign.





Rescued the saw from being cut up and sold for parts. Treated the rust and dumped it in the garden. Found a wany rubbish bit of oak and stenciled on the side.




Even with wheels it takes some handling! 

Coley 


Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Nelsun

Now that's a sign. Glad to see you've got a riving knife. Safety first!


----------



## Cinimod

Hi all just thought I'd post this to show you what goes on in my man shed........
The only thing I'm not happy with is the fact that the pine indicators on the big one have darkened really badly with the application of Danish oil, so must use another finish or a different way of marking the hours.........Dom


----------



## ED65

That spalted one looks ace Dom.



Cinimod":1upu8nfl said:


> The only thing I'm not happy with is the fact that the pine indicators on the big one have darkened really badly with the application of Danish oil, so must use another finish or a different way of marking the hours


How about epoxy coloured white? With Danish applied over the top of it it'll stay pretty white, maybe go just a touch toward a sort of bone colour.


----------



## Walney Col

Hot off the press, my woven scroll saw basket.






Col.


----------



## thetyreman

love that sapele clock cinimod, great job =D>


----------



## Cinimod

ED65":2bzm74no said:


> That spalted one looks ace Dom.
> 
> 
> 
> Cinimod":2bzm74no said:
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I'm not happy with is the fact that the pine indicators on the big one have darkened really badly with the application of Danish oil, so must use another finish or a different way of marking the hours
> 
> 
> 
> How about epoxy coloured white? With Danish applied over the top of it it'll stay pretty white, maybe go just a touch toward a sort of bone colour.
Click to expand...


Glad you like them, I love the spalted timbers as they all look totally different, and I've got loads of it that came in a pile of firewood. Who cares if the kids go cold.
I might try epoxy next time but what do you stain it with??.............dom


----------



## Cinimod

thetyreman":1lkbr4ba said:


> love that sapele clock cinimod, great job =D>



Thanks, glad you like it. Not bad for a Yandles scrap bin bit eh., I think it's a framed door panel........dom


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Coley
Love it =D> 

:arrow: Cinimod
Very nice =D> 

:arrow: Col
That's cool =D>


----------



## NazNomad

Cinimod":344lifa0 said:


> ... the pine indicators on the big one have darkened really badly with the application of Danish oil.



Dom, try small pieces of 5-6mm brass rod. I've used the same for guitar fret markers in the past.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Or copper nails/rivets. Or you can buy round cabochons of semi precious stones quite cheaply.


----------



## devonwoody

Clocks and basket both good, designs are interesting as well.


----------



## Beau

Great Job Col =D>


----------



## ED65

Cinimod":h7xytn8j said:


> I might try epoxy next time but what do you stain it with??.............dom


White paint will do it, anything oil-based. I usually use tube oil paints (for canvas painting) but tried some enamel paint recently after getting some for tool restorations and it works the same. You only need to add a small amount to get a good solid colour. 

You could also mix in a white powder, but I'd guess you don't have powdered marble or white pigment in the house  Talcum powder mixes well with epoxy but I think by itself it'll give you a dirty cream colour.


----------



## Cinimod

ED65":tt1j0cd8 said:


> Cinimod":tt1j0cd8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I might try epoxy next time but what do you stain it with??.............dom
> 
> 
> 
> White paint will do it, anything oil-based. I usually use tube oil paints (for canvas painting) but tried some enamel paint recently after getting some for tool restorations and it works the same. You only need to add a small amount to get a good solid colour.
> 
> You could also mix in a white powder, but I'd guess you don't have powdered marble or white pigment in the house  Talcum powder mixes well with epoxy but I think by itself it'll give you a dirty cream colour.
Click to expand...


Cheers for the advice. I've got loads of oil paints because I also paint military figures...........dom


----------



## DennisCA

Kentucky stick chair, made it a bit bigger since the original sizes I got off the net were so small for my frame (6'2")





And hardly fine woodworking, barely woodworking, but I slapped together a frame to throw a net around the strawberry patch, so it'll stop being a bird feeder.


----------



## thetyreman

Just finished another 3 legged stool, this time there was quite a bit of scalloping involved on the seat, I am reasonably happy with it, apart from a major mistake I made where I drilled through at the wrong angle with one of the leg lol (hence the small hole where the auger pointed through) this was repaired with a dowel that I made from the same oak hammerd in then re-drilled at the correct angle, all with brace and bit drills in this crazy heat, the sides aren't perfectly rounded either, not sure if I will go back and make them perfect, part of me likes the rustic look of it. The design is another paul sellers one from his book 'working with wood 1 & 2' The seat was shaped with only a gouge, then a kidney scraper, with a final sanding at 250 grit, then sealer layer of shellac.

I am happy I made some mistakes in a way, because I am unlikely to do it again, hope you all enjoy the pics! 

regards, Ben.


----------



## NazNomad

Finished this bird box that someone has requested... Just in time to be too late to use this year. :-D


----------



## monkeybiter

Every year I watch the birds in the garden and think 'I must make nesting boxes for next year' and each year I forget!


----------



## Woodmonkey

Some simple alcove cupboards with push to open doors. Shelves from ikea!


----------



## NazNomad

A little hollow thingy from 'unknown' wood.


----------



## memzey

NazNomad":2b9pnz96 said:


> A little hollow thingy from 'unknown' wood.


Beautiful!


----------



## MattRoberts

Nested tables (two pairs)


----------



## Cordy

Super craftsmanship there Naz
What are the dimensions ?


----------



## Aggrajag

I like those Matt, lovely highlighting on the legs and a great top surface.


----------



## thetyreman

I went back and rounded off all the corners with a spokeshave, here's the completed stool finished with de-waxed shellac.


----------



## NazNomad

Cordy":2vw5kedi said:


> Super craftsmanship there Naz
> What are the dimensions ?



5½'' across x 3'' high, it's all I had left after turning a grand-canyon-type split out of the blank log. :-D


----------



## custard

thetyreman":3n2n9lvn said:


> I went back and rounded off all the corners with a spokeshave, here's the completed stool finished with de-waxed shellac.



Excellent work, that'll be a treasured item in your household for many, many years.


----------



## custard

NazNomad":2n2cy0lk said:


> Finished this bird box that someone has requested... Just in time to be too late to use this year. :-D



That's so ingenious and so inventive, and actually the build looks every bit as clever as the design. Well done!

=D>


----------



## custard

MattRoberts":37vtnyrx said:


> Nested tables (two pairs)



I like what you've done there Matt. You've made some bold design decisions, like the very high chamfers on the bottom of the legs and the groove that runs around the legs, and you've executed them with real conviction. In doing so you've _unified_ them, and made it clear that they're a _set_ even though the sizing is so obviously different. 

IMO that's where nests of tables often fail, they just don't call out that they're a family, and as a result when they're deployed in a room can just look messy and disjointed.

Well done!


----------



## MattRoberts

custard":3e4ht605 said:


> MattRoberts":3e4ht605 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nested tables (two pairs)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like what you've done there Matt. You've made some bold design decisions, like the very high chamfers on the bottom of the legs and the groove that runs around the legs, and you've executed them with real conviction. In doing so you've _unified_ them, and made it clear that they're a _set_ even though the sizing is so obviously different.
> 
> IMO that's where nests of tables often fail, they just don't call out that they're a family, and as a result when they're deployed in a room can just look messy and disjointed.
> 
> Well done!
Click to expand...

Thanks custard, that's some lovely praise


----------



## monkeybiter

MattRoberts":2f3iy5so said:


> custard, that's some lovely praise



He's right as well, I can't say I've ever studied nested table but it all makes sense, including the praise.


----------



## thetyreman

custard":1de3bs90 said:


> thetyreman":1de3bs90 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I went back and rounded off all the corners with a spokeshave, here's the completed stool finished with de-waxed shellac.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent work, that'll be a treasured item in your household for many, many years.
Click to expand...


many thanks, yes I hope so, it will most likely outlive me.


----------



## Doris

I made a pair of tiny drilling tools today.


----------



## NazNomad

I thought you'd made a huge coin first of all. :-D



Made this for sanding inside small hollow forms - I ain't shoving my pinkies in here.






Tight fit on a Dremel flap-wheel shaft (and most other Dremel accessories if the need arises).


----------



## woodpig

Nice idea Naz. Flap wheels on my shopping list ...


----------



## Bm101

Doris":1c5nbysc said:


> I made a pair of tiny drilling tools today.



 I bet you're busy coming up to Christmas. I always say you're alright as long as you got your Elf.


----------



## Doris

Bm101":3vp0x1vf said:


> Doris":3vp0x1vf said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a pair of tiny drilling tools today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bet you're busy coming up to Christmas. I always say you're alright as long as you got your Elf.
Click to expand...


Great minds think alike :lol:


----------



## t8hants

Doris":2hg1lku5 said:


> I made a pair of tiny drilling tools today.



Poor Elves time to update them to a battery drill! :deer


----------



## memzey

Doris' elves are trad woodworkers!


----------



## OM99

Chessboard out of maple, sapele and some chestnut for the edging. 

Sapele and maple was cut to 5mm thick and glued on 12 mm plywood, covered the bottom with some hard wood facing mdf and edge band it with some chestnut. size of the board is about 450x450 and the square are about 50x50.

Oli


----------



## DTR

Very nice =D>


----------



## NazNomad

Too soon? :-D Well, it IS August.






Give a man a dismantled pallet and he can make stuff for a day, teach a man to dismantle a pallet and he can make stuff forever.


----------



## dzj

A four post cottage bed.


----------



## monkeybiter

That looks quite perfect!


----------



## Aggrajag

Those are beautiful DZJ!


----------



## timbo614

djz - I really like that! Looks so pretty.


----------



## gregmcateer

OM99":380oax97 said:


> Chessboard out of maple, sapele and some chestnut for the edging.
> 
> Sapele and maple was cut to 5mm thick and glued on 12 mm plywood, covered the bottom with some hard wood facing mdf and edge band it with some chestnut. size of the board is about 450x450 and the square are about 50x50.
> 
> Oli



That is a very neat and impressive board, Oli.

I like it very much. =D>


----------



## thetyreman

lovely chess board! I like the simplicity of it.


----------



## dzj

Thanks for the kind words, guys.
Design-wise it's not my cup of tea, but that's what the client wanted, so...
If anything, it's sturdy.
And the proceeds go towards a noble cause (footing the fuel bill for next winter)


----------



## thetyreman

NazNomad":2w19ob3a said:


> Too soon? :-D Well, it IS August.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Give a man a dismantled pallet and he can make stuff for a day, teach a man to dismantle a pallet and he can make stuff forever.



waay to early, but it's still a great piece, very creative.


----------



## DennisCA

Outdoor storage chest from surplus pressure treated boards I had left over after building steps for our terrace, very simple construction, butt joints and screws all the way through











Also my fiance made pillows for the kentucky stick chair I made, she made several so more chairs are to be built


----------



## ColeyS1

Fence to keep dog from running through the raised bed, and screwed some sleepers together








Trellis and gateway to follow.......sometime :lol: 

Coley


----------



## Woodchips2

Hi Coley, that pooch definitely has a look of disgust on his face, doggy treat time methinks (hammer) 

Regards Keith

ps fence looks nice


----------



## ColeyS1

Cheers Keith. He weren't to pleased where I left his treat ! 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4fhKh ... p=drivesdk
The fence is also to stop him chasing anything that drives past. Neighbours have complained at his barking which is completely understandable, hopefully this might slow down his chasing of vehicles. I can hope anyway 

Coley


----------



## Doris

Mice I've made out of bits of iroko (we think it's that at least) left over from our lawn mower refurb.


----------



## stuffimade

Here is the build video of my daughters simple oak bedside table. Hope you enjoy! 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoiElwlfZaM


----------



## skint-94

Actually turned to be harder than i had hoped but i am still learning so they should start looking better!


----------



## Chrispy

Does pressing the start button count?





As you may note from the date it was a round tuit bread board.


----------



## donwatson

A pair of dummy exhaust silencers for a Royal Aircraft Factory BE2


----------



## DTR

donwatson":29u40web said:


> A pair of dummy exhaust silencers for a Royal Aircraft Factory BE2



Well that's a bit different! :lol:


----------



## n0legs

iPad stand for daughter number one.


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Doris, brilliant as usual =D> 
:arrow: skint-94, looks good mate =D> Got any better pics?


----------



## ColeyS1

A chimney for the shed- only for decoration  









I sprayed some left over ducting and an old durgo valve.

Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Steveshj

Hi

Not exactly cabinet making, but how to turn years worth of mdf offcuts into something useful;

So from this;






...via this:






..and this:






Spraying with the Earlex:






Ditto:






.... with the helper:






....to this:






and this:






Needless to say filled up already.

Cheers

Steve


----------



## owsnap

Steveshj":q3ncgvno said:


> Hi
> 
> Not exactly cabinet making, but how to turn years worth of mdf offcuts into something useful;
> 
> So from this;
> 
> 
> 
> ...via this:
> 
> 
> 
> ..and this:
> 
> 
> 
> Spraying with the Earlex:
> 
> 
> 
> Ditto:
> 
> 
> 
> .... with the helper:
> 
> 
> 
> ....to this:
> 
> 
> 
> and this:
> 
> 
> 
> Needless to say filled up already.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Steve




nice work, but surely chipboard furniture from Ikea ( or any other junk chipboard selling place) is much better value than building such a thing yourself?


----------



## Steveshj

Very true!

Unfortunately, the "gap" was not Ikea sized.

Steve


----------



## thetyreman

made a dovetail template out of Honduras Mahogany, planning on making a box or two soon.


----------



## n0legs

Made a very quick and exceptionally dirty window for the good woman's shed/garden tools store/my compressor shed :lol: 
Materials.......well it was holding up the BIL's garage roof 6 weeks ago, with a coat of 2k paint no one will be any the wiser :wink: 
It'll be glazed with some 10mm acrylic I have from a previous job.


----------



## MattRoberts

Nice! Doesn't look dirty to me nolegs


----------



## HornBen

Maple and Walnut coffee table...

Took a while but got there eventually!

Cheers,

Ben


----------



## MarkDennehy

Love the contrast of the woods.


----------



## memzey

Beautiful!


----------



## rafezetter

Here's one of the last 3 things I made - all from victorian floorboards rescued from Erik the vikings "take it to the tip" pile:

Amazing what you can get out of old grimey covered in some horrid tar like varnished wood innit?


----------



## monkeybiter

Looks good, how about a better view of the end uprights [terminology?] ?


----------



## Walney Col

The Admiral's Clock...






Col.


----------



## sammy.se

stuffimade":2q7fcyd2 said:


> Here is the build video of my daughters simple oak bedside table. Hope you enjoy!
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoiElwlfZaM
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoiElwlfZaM



I love the tapered legs.


----------



## thetyreman

I love that table hornben, I like the simplicity of it and the way the top has a slight curve to it, the contrasting walnut and maple is a nice touch.


----------



## custard

HornBen":b2noppm6 said:


> Maple and Walnut coffee table...
> 
> Took a while but got there eventually!
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Ben



Nice work Ben, well worth taking your time and getting it right. Those leg to rail joints look really tight and clean.

=D>


----------



## devonwoody

Preparing some ash boards from two logs which have been laying in my workshop for 4 years and hoping to use next year (2017).
They did not cut easily, the saw coped oK but I was not able to feed them to the blade in comfort owing to weight. I need a feed system to do this sort of thing?
















Two more boards to come .


----------



## HornBen

custard":23qj9b88 said:


> HornBen":23qj9b88 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Maple and Walnut coffee table...
> 
> Took a while but got there eventually!
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Ben
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work Ben, well worth taking your time and getting it right. Those leg to rail joints look really tight and clean.
> 
> =D>
Click to expand...


Thanks for the feedback - yes I was pretty happy with the results!


----------



## NazNomad

15'' high, made from carp-wood.


----------



## n0legs

NazNomad":quzzjs49 said:


> 15'' high, made from carp-wood.



What's his name?
He's cool =D>


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: HornBen
Table's gorgeous mate =D>


----------



## MarkDennehy

That's awesome (but then so's everything...)


----------



## NazNomad

n0legs":2rato4z7 said:


> What's his name?



It hadn't occurred to me to name him ... Woody is a bit predictable.

Maybe a poll is needed for this?


----------



## NazNomad

MarkDennehy":rreveuj6 said:


> That's awesome (but then so's everything...)



:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: #-o


----------



## dzj

Pipe boxing. 90m of it. 50 more to go.


----------



## PopaDom

probably not that great compared to some stuff on here, but i made my first workbench and i am pretty pleased with it.
ignore the uneven gap between the electrical cupboard and bench. its the pre-existing wall/cupboard that's squiffy not my bench. :lol:


----------



## Biliphuster

Nice bench PopaDom, those vices can be used perfectly well for a lot of woodworking tasks despite not being traditional.

I made this a couple of months ago and by now, after a few coats of polish and letting the brass tarnih a bit it's starting to look more at home.











Walnut with brass corner guards and handles. Twenty pieces of hardware to flush mount and over One hundred brass screws to drive and clock, which took the majority of the time. I used "full blind" dovetails at the corners so the only end grain on show is a thin lip visible from the side but not too noticeable. I didn't quite trust my mitres to do a secret mitre dovetails but maybe next time. Unfortunately I couldn't get wrapping grain out of the timber I had but since it's round corners I don't think it matters too much.


----------



## monkeybiter

Lovely box!


----------



## DTR

Very nice work =D>

That box is stunning!


----------



## Nelsun

Stonking box you've made there. Looks like it'll outlast all of humanity. Love it!


----------



## DennisCA

Loving that box, I have no idea how to shape brass into shapes like that. Jelaous.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Buy them.


----------



## Doris

My interpretation of a Puffin as a commission for a baby girl. Carved out of a lump of lime I did a trade with member phillip (thank you once again). Still lots of offcuts to play around with too. 

Feet haven't been painted yet upon customers request as they want to do it.


----------



## MattRoberts

That looks awesome Doris!


----------



## Nelsun

We're lucky in that puffins come to Shetland in their droves and you can get right up next to them - literally within touching distance. I'm not a twitcher by any means but they are always worth going to see as they are such characterful wee things. Love the carving Doris!


----------



## nev

No skills required!
Luckily 
Pair of katangas come shelves for utility room. 
Builders merchants (i.e. knotty and twisted) PAR 7x1 and 4x1, 69p hooks from amazon and a tin of chalk paint.
Simple: cut to length, edge with chamfer bit in router, screw together, paint. Wall fixings under end hooks.


----------



## DTR

What's a Katanga? Google tells me it's a place in Africa?!


----------



## marcros

nev":wek1r7lq said:


> No skills required!



He will be along soon, I am sure.


----------



## nev

DTR":26sziq2z said:


> What's a Katanga? Google tells me it's a place in Africa?!



its a hanga for yer coat #-o 

or some bloke from a Bond film


----------



## SGKent

Foldaway workbench. Started last week, finished today. 8)


----------



## custard

SGKent":2w24dyaw said:


> Foldaway workbench. Started last week, finished today.



Way to go. 

Crack on, get it finished, start making stuff.

=D>


----------



## ColeyS1

That bench looks a beaut ! Looks nice and sturdy.

Coley


----------



## SGKent

Thank you . Been waiting 5 months to reach this point after I started with the structure. It will be nice to make something that is not the workshop or for the workshop!


----------



## monkeybiter

Doris":btz11cm1 said:


> My interpretation of a Puffin as a commission for a baby girl.



Well, as the fat controller said to Thomas; 'I like your Puffin!'

IMHO one of your best. 

How tall is it? And how do you like the Lime?


----------



## Doris

Why thank you all. 



monkeybiter":evyk1pre said:


> Doris":evyk1pre said:
> 
> 
> 
> My interpretation of a Puffin as a commission for a baby girl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, as the fat controller said to Thomas; 'I like your Puffin!'
> 
> IMHO one of your best.
> 
> How tall is it? And how do you like the Lime?
Click to expand...


Its only about 6 inches tall. It's the first time I've really carved something large out of lime. I have to say its the nicest wood I've worked with. It doesn't scar as much as other woods when you rasp it so I pretty much had the whole lot done (bar the feet) in less than a day. With something like Oak it would have taken much longer.


----------



## DTR

nev":18ymat2s said:


> DTR":18ymat2s said:
> 
> 
> 
> What's a Katanga? Google tells me it's a place in Africa?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its a hanga for yer coat #-o
Click to expand...


I can be exceptionally dense sometimes :shock: #-o (hammer)


----------



## romi

my latest finished project

Custom made wire brush painted solid oak
mirror frame and dressing


----------



## Biliphuster

Terrific job, came out very neat.

Did you do the paneling as well?


----------



## devonwoody

Was this made for your own home? Looks supberb.


----------



## romi

Biliphuster":1hfwhx15 said:


> Terrific job, came out very neat.
> 
> Did you do the paneling as well?



thank u
yes i made it all 
from timber to the painting


----------



## romi

devonwoody":7u5ijtze said:


> Was this made for your own home? Looks supberb.




thank u
no, i have a small workshop and i made custom furniture
so it was for a customer :wink:


----------



## DennisCA

Needed somewhere to put all these spice bags laying around the spice cabinet so I made a box





Filled to capacity at once, infact there's still stuff left.





European walnut, finished with a linseed oil and wax emulsion and buffed out. I tried first with a water based poly but what a PITA and it didn't come looking as nice, sanded it off and rubbed it by hand with this, then buffed it out with a shop towel.


----------



## giantbeat

horrid photo but its a cherry & walnut ply drum kit with wooden hoops, photo taken from a drum show at the weekend i crammed in several overnight shifts to get this done, my workshops in bits right now so was a challenge to build in time.


----------



## MattRoberts

Nice box Dennis - did you use a jig for the finger joints?


----------



## NazNomad

Lovely kit, I didn't know Meinl made Persian carpets? :-D


----------



## giantbeat

NazNomad":3tf1tg3k said:


> Lovely kit, I didn't know Meinl made Persian carpets? :-D



ohhh yes they do... very popular they are too, im fancying one for the living room


----------



## DennisCA

MattRoberts":1adr2r8n said:


> Nice box Dennis - did you use a jig for the finger joints?



Yeah I use the screw advance jig by matthias wandel, I cut all 4 parts in one go.


----------



## MattRoberts

DennisCA":1urmyf11 said:


> MattRoberts":1urmyf11 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice box Dennis - did you use a jig for the finger joints?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I use the screw advance jig by matthias wandel, I cut all 4 parts in one go.
Click to expand...

Oh nice - with the gears? I've bought the plans for the John heisz ones, but not got around to making it yet


----------



## DennisCA

Yeah, it's incredibly accurate


----------



## thetyreman

that kit looks awesome, I'd kill for a kit like that in my recording studio


----------



## custard

giantbeat":w5fjare8 said:


> horrid photo but its a cherry & walnut ply drum kit with wooden hoops, photo taken from a drum show at the weekend i crammed in several overnight shifts to get this done, my workshops in bits right now so was a challenge to build in time.



Looks great! I hope you do a "Words & Photos" build sequence, I'd be fascinated to see how they're made.

=D>


----------



## NazNomad

Inspired by the Puffin that Doris carved ...


----------



## Phil Pascoe

He looks very worried ... is he heading for the Faroes?


----------



## Cordy

=D> Cool Naz =D>


----------



## n0legs

giantbeat":2v09h5h3 said:


> horrid photo but its a cherry & walnut ply drum kit with wooden hoops, photo taken from a drum show at the weekend i crammed in several overnight shifts to get this done, my workshops in bits right now so was a challenge to build in time.




=D> Excellent


----------



## n0legs

NazNomad":3pb7ztsg said:


> Inspired by the Puffin that Doris carved ...



Cool Naz =D>


----------



## n0legs

DennisCA":2vvximyr said:


> Needed somewhere to put all these spice bags laying around the spice cabinet so I made a box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .




That's a great looking box DCA =D>


----------



## NazNomad

phil.p":f0ptegv2 said:


> He looks very worried ... is he heading for the Faroes?




I suspect he's worried because he's seen me with my sheep.


----------



## LancsRick

Just finished two experiments which will be birthday presents for my mum. When my parents redid their kitchen, they had a few things made out of black walnut, and kept the offcuts. Since my mum has said she wanted a cheeseboard and matching breadboard, I spotted a present opportunity!

Both are very simple as they're my first attempts into their respective techniques. For the cheeseboard, it's the largest thing I've turned (15"), as I usually do spindlework. So I kept it simple, focused on the finish. For the breadboard, all I had was smaller pieces, so I needed to do a block laminate effect - again, my first time doing that as an end product. Kept it simple, focused on the finish.

I'd welcome any comments and criticism! Oh, they've been finished with danish oil.

http://imgur.com/a/RHTFk

Cheers!


----------



## Doris

NazNomad":w3tjyr4u said:


> Inspired by the Puffin that Doris carved ...


Love it!


----------



## thetyreman

I created a silver birch cutting board, finished today with some de-waxed shellac, this wood was in a skip near me! so it was completely free.

I was planning on giving it away to a friend, but now I might have to keep it.

I used a coping saw, rasp a no4 stanley plane and sandpaper to make this, no power tools needed.


----------



## Chip shop

Knocked this together today with off-cuts of Jewsons' finest rubbish 'joinery grade' reds. Notice the short T&G board...it's only for me so I don't mind too much.


----------



## custard

thetyreman":2o52dh3n said:


> I used a coping saw, rasp a no4 stanley plane and sandpaper to make this, no power tools needed.



Blimey, that's unbelievably good! 

The precise and even rounding to all the edges (including on the end grain and around those internal and external corners), the absolute symmetry of the handle, the tightness of the glue lines, the flatness of the surface, the way the jointed boards are perfectly balanced on each side, the complete absence of any tell tale flats or facets from a rasp, and even the professional jauntiness of the design. 

I'm blown away, I really am!

=D>


----------



## Racers

+1

Nice job, the quiet side of wood work is nice and relaxing, and gets you in touch with the wood and how it likes to be worked.

Pete


----------



## JakeS

After using a temporary screwed-to-a-bit-of-MDF-in-a-workmate job for more years than can strictly be considered "temporary", I made one of these:





And to celebrate, one of these - to replace the temporary-old-glass-placemat which we'd used for more years than could strictly be considered "temporary":





Since I know it's all you guys really care about, and also since I need the practice, I did the corners with dovetails:





And then stuffed things in it so it's useful:


----------



## monkeybiter

Those are some very impressively tight dovetails! 
Isn't that Sapele? 
Was there a lot of splintering to deal with?
How thick is your brass plate?
End of 'Q's


----------



## DTR

Very nice Jake =D>


----------



## brianhabby

JakeS":1x2n43e6 said:


> After using a temporary screwed-to-a-bit-of-MDF-in-a-workmate job for more years than can strictly be considered "temporary", I made one of these:


I have also been using a temporary setup for a router table and have just ordered a Kreg insert plate from Yandles so will soon be doing the same.

That tray is very nice

regards

Brian


----------



## JakeS

Cheers, guys!



monkeybiter":2ntmkajk said:


> Those are some very impressively tight dovetails!
> Isn't that Sapele?
> Was there a lot of splintering to deal with?



Unfortunately I spent so much effort getting the dovetails all nice and tight and glued up square in the plane of the tray base that I didn't think to check how square they were in the other direction, and ended up having to sand two corners down about half a millimetre on the underside to get it to sit flat!

It is indeed sapele; it was fine chiselling out the dovetails while cutting them (held down tight to a bit of scrap specifically to avoid that problem!) but I did manage to chip the corner of one of them off clamping it shut and had to glue it back in, and after a disastrous first shallow pass on the bottom bevel learned to just finish off the corners in one direction with a chisel!



monkeybiter":2ntmkajk said:


> How thick is your brass plate?



It's an anodised aluminium plate that I bought from a forum member about three years ago when I'd only been using the temporary workmate solution for about a year... ;-) Apologies if I misled; the bit I made was the braced tablesaw extension table (and obviously the hole).

I'm not sure who made the plate, which I guess means that if I want to do raised panels on this table I'm going to have to make my own inserts. It's a little under 6.5mm thick - my guess is probably 1/4". It also has too many holes in it, since whoever owned it previously obviously didn't own a Triton TRB001. I'm planning on filling them in with some slightly-recessed epoxy putty when I get one of them round things.


----------



## thetyreman

I re-shaped the tote and handle on my no 5 1/2, the tote isn't perfectly round, but it's pretty close, using a rasp the sandpaper and finally a few coats of DW shellac, it feels much better now and the handle is comfortable. For the handle I used a template from lee valley tools website, then shaped it until I was happy, it now fits my hand perfectly.


----------



## giantbeat

thetyreman":enfigx8m said:


> that kit looks awesome, I'd kill for a kit like that in my recording studio



you ever decide you need one, let me know, im sure we can do a UKworkshop discount 



custard":enfigx8m said:


> giantbeat":enfigx8m said:
> 
> 
> 
> horrid photo but its a cherry & walnut ply drum kit with wooden hoops, photo taken from a drum show at the weekend i crammed in several overnight shifts to get this done, my workshops in bits right now so was a challenge to build in time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great! I hope you do a "Words & Photos" build sequence, I'd be fascinated to see how they're made.
> 
> =D>
Click to expand...


i can certainly do that on a future build... might have to edit a couple of details there is a handful of other rival drum makers who would kill for a couple of my secrets... i think you would be surprised at how simple they are, as ever its all in the jig's


----------



## thetyreman

custard":1trf6ooy said:


> thetyreman":1trf6ooy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I used a coping saw, rasp a no4 stanley plane and sandpaper to make this, no power tools needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blimey, that's unbelievably good!
> 
> The precise and even rounding to all the edges (including on the end grain and around those internal and external corners), the absolute symmetry of the handle, the tightness of the glue lines, the flatness of the surface, the way the jointed boards are perfectly balanced on each side, the complete absence of any tell tale flats or facets from a rasp, and even the professional jauntiness of the design.
> 
> I'm blown away, I really am!
> 
> =D>
Click to expand...


all I can say is thankyou, and I didn't even think it was that good, I did get an ariou rasp by the way and it's absolutely amazing, the 4 in 1 rasp that they make, definitely helps a lot.


----------



## thetyreman

Racers":1ehmbznd said:


> +1
> 
> Nice job, the quiet side of wood work is nice and relaxing, and gets you in touch with the wood and how it likes to be worked.
> 
> Pete



thanks, yes it's very peaceful and I think more rewarding at the end.


----------



## n0legs

I've been making a vacuum press.
Next thing is sorting out a vac bag. Buy or make?? :-s


----------



## custard

n0legs":2zzbrntz said:


> I've been making a vacuum press.



Good luck with the vac press work, be interested to hear how you get on. Any projects in mind?


----------



## n0legs

custard":5sfh03k4 said:


> n0legs":5sfh03k4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been making a vacuum press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck with the vac press work, be interested to hear how you get on. Any projects in mind?
Click to expand...



Thanks Custard.
Yes I have a few ideas planned. First thing when I have a bag is to get some cheap veneer and a substrate and just practice practice practice. 
Learn the glue up process, learn the vacuum press and prove it all works properly. 
I've currently got one "veneering" project on the go and the use of a dozen concrete blocks prompted a vacuum press :lol:


----------



## Doris

Just finished this Giraffe Rocking Horse. The first one I've ever done and was a joy to make, but very tiring too. Made from solid oak worktop mostly with ask rockers. Took 20 hours in total.


----------



## custard

> Just finished this Giraffe Rocking Horse. The first one I've ever done and was a joy to make, but very tiring too. Made from solid oak worktop mostly with ask rockers.



You manage to inject so much movement and personality into your carving, even simple things seem to spring to life, amazing work.

=D>


----------



## katellwood

Retirement present for an ex colleague 

Truncheon Macassar Ebony, base Maple stringing Ebony rippings, Epaulette Fumed Oak

Waiting for a length of leather for the strap then two small mounts to secure the strap. will post when fully complete


----------



## monkeybiter

That's rather splendid, should be well received.


----------



## katellwood

finished it this morning (apart from a plaque)


----------



## otter

Mmm, kinky!


----------



## brianhabby

Got this on the wall of the Men's Shed today. 






I saw the idea on the Fine Woodworking website ages ago but never really had a use for it until now. We just have to decide which tools go where now.

The frames and top & bottom supports are ash and the field is 12mm ply. The ash is cut from some old pub tabletops we acquired last year.

regards

Brian


----------



## BLAG

WA0000.jpg[/attachment]This is the last thing I made


----------



## devonwoody

brianhabby":1rm19uho said:


> Got this on the wall of the Men's Shed today.
> 
> View attachment 2016
> 
> 
> I saw the idea on the Fine Woodworking website ages ago but never really had a use for it until now. We just have to decide which tools go where now.
> 
> The frames and top & bottom supports are ash and the field is 12mm ply. The ash is cut from some old pub tabletops we acquired last year.
> 
> regards
> 
> Brian



Very good idea, and thanks for the Mens Shed link, there appears to be one in Torbay, I used to visit the sheds in Australia which were encoureaged by their local communities and local govenment.


----------



## Cordy

BLAG
Robust handsome table and seats there; excellent =D>


----------



## BLAG

Cordy":oltl5l6y said:


> BLAG
> Robust handsome table and seats there; excellent =D>


Thanks mate. It's the first furniture I've made and the wood only cost 70 quid. 3 years of nagging from the Mrs to make some


----------



## DiscoStu

Well this is the last thing I made. I've posted about it in a thread called "Wine Carrier" so I won't bang on about it here. 








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## devonwoody

Good job, how did you get the labelling to the timber? wine carrier.


----------



## DiscoStu

I posted a more detailed account but it's laser etched courtesy of Mike Dempsey who very kindly offer to do it for me. It's looks stunning in the flesh. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## romi

solid oak :wink:


----------



## Beau

Fantastic work romi =D> 

How long to make that lot?


----------



## romi

Beau":liur3w4p said:


> Fantastic work romi =D>
> 
> How long to make that lot?



thank u
well i work only i with my father
it took me 22 days... sanding and details took a lot of time ,and math of course  ,all must be precise/accurate
but i don"t work all day long,i work 5-7h day


----------



## DiscoStu

That looks great but what's with the photos? Looks like you've applied some retro filters?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## romi

DiscoStu":19e3ax9r said:


> That looks great but what's with the photos? Looks like you've applied some retro filters?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 no filter.. bad phone camera  and maybe the light


----------



## Beau

romi":1gnp7ofu said:


> Beau":1gnp7ofu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fantastic work romi =D>
> 
> How long to make that lot?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank u
> well i work only i with my father
> it took me 22 days... sanding and details took a lot of time ,and math of course  ,all must be precise/accurate
> but i don"t work all day long,i work 5-7h day
Click to expand...



22 days for all that! Even more impressed now.


----------



## romi

Beau":fuv1ynau said:


> romi":fuv1ynau said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beau":fuv1ynau said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fantastic work romi =D>
> 
> How long to make that lot?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank u
> well i work only i with my father
> it took me 22 days... sanding and details took a lot of time ,and math of course  ,all must be precise/accurate
> but i don"t work all day long,i work 5-7h day
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 22 days for all that! Even more impressed now.
Click to expand...


well..i got a full equipped workshop ..or most of machinery
so it's easy...


----------



## MarkDennehy

Well, damn. And to think I was proud of this!


----------



## Khendon

New here and new to woodworking, so thought I'd post the couple of little items I have made...

Paul Sellers style workbench, modified slightly to fit in my garage.

Bench

Ash picture frame for my wife, bit tricky to work with, might not try that again for a while...

Frame
First attempt at dovetails, little set of stairs for my brother-in-laws pug (don't ask)

Just painting these now, then on to the next project.

Steps

Regards


----------



## dzj

A fine looking bench. Well done!
The dovetails on the steps are not too bad. I'm sure they're
doing the job.
Perhaps a tad too little stock left (between 1st and 2nd step) when you cut out the arc.
All in all, for someone new to woodworking, good job!


----------



## thetyreman

Khendon":31uxexds said:


> New here and new to woodworking, so thought I'd post the couple of little items I have made...
> 
> Paul Sellers style workbench, modified slightly to fit in my garage.
> 
> Bench
> 
> Ash picture frame for my wife, bit tricky to work with, might not try that again for a while...
> 
> Frame
> First attempt at dovetails, little set of stairs for my brother-in-laws pug (don't ask)
> 
> Just painting these now, then on to the next project.
> 
> Steps
> 
> Regards



superb work there!


----------



## Khendon

Thanks muchly folks. Tricky business this woodworking lark, but very enjoyable.



dzj":2j63kazg said:


> A fine looking bench. Well done!
> The dovetails on the steps are not too bad. I'm sure they're
> doing the job.
> Perhaps a tad too little stock left (between 1st and 2nd step) when you cut out the arc.
> All in all, for someone new to woodworking, good job!




Yeh I think you're right about the too little stock. Hmm I hadn't noticed that.

Hopefully as they are for a small dog it won't be too much of a problem.

Maybe I'd better warn the brother-in-law not to stand on them himself too much... 

Regards

Dave


----------



## Chip shop

Had some free time today so had a crack at some signs for a mate. I found some slightly manky elm and graded it best I could.




[/URL]

Ended up like this:




[/URL]

I'm a bit naffed off with the split in the "Plas Y Coed" sign, but I have a little more of the same board that I might be able to squeeze a replacement out of...plus it's a freebie, so I might toss it off and have a beer :lol:


----------



## ColeyS1

My word.. those signs look really smart !! I'm sure the recipients will be chuffed to bits !
Nice job 

Coley


----------



## custard

Very smart. Were they carved or routed?


----------



## Chip shop

custard":2vp0ks3f said:


> Very smart. Were they carved or routed?



Soz, I can't claim any great skill, I did them on the CNC.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

No sheet, Sherlock. :lol:


----------



## Chip shop

phil.p":db0tp318 said:


> No sheet, Sherlock. :lol:



Don't dis me...I had to press a button, and everyfink :lol:


----------



## custard

Aha! It didn't look like letter carving, but I've never seen a router template with a serif typeface. Hey, if it works then it works, the results are all that matters and the results look terrific!


----------



## Chip shop

custard":39obiho6 said:


> Aha! It didn't look like letter carving, but I've never seen a router template with a serif typeface. Hey, if it works then it works, the results are all that matters and the results look terrific!



Thanks very much. It means a great deal coming from you. Most of my stuff is standard joinery, so the CNC cuts MDF profiles for swept head windows, and the like. It's kinda groovy to use it for fun projects.


----------



## ColeyS1

I bought a cast iron horse head to go on the face of my shed.





It looked a bit busy so I removed the surround and put a plate on the back so it could be mounted on its own.




Couldn't let it go hungry :lol: I might fill it up with coir matting and plant a few flowers or perhaps just fill it up with plastic carrots.
I'm finding I getting really bored in the evenings now. Dark nights just make me feel lazy so I'm almost having to force myself back in the workshop.

Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## OM99

Tray made of oak and some pegs in the mitre to make them a bit stronger


----------



## n0legs

OM99":3c70brro said:


> Tray made of oak and some pegs in the mitre to make them a bit stronger




As a mate of mine says "that's a bit of me there" (I like it a lot)  
Unfussy, solid, honest and will last a lifetime =D>


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Coley.

Love it, just love it :lol: :lol:


----------



## custard

ColeyS1":25fm31wu said:


> I bought a cast iron horse head to go on the face of my shed.
> 
> Coley



You might be on to a winner there Coley. 

Some of the least challenging but most profitable work I do is "equestrian furniture", I get brought in a couple of times a year by a local architect who specialises in designing dream private stables, I make bespoke bridle racks, saddle stands, mounting steps, and all manner of horsey paraphernalia out of unnecessarily extravagant timbers like Walnut, Mahogany or Teak, usually with a lot of dovetails, letter carving and hand rubbed varnished finishes. Madness, but it covers the bills and subsidises some more interesting stuff.


----------



## craigclavin

Hello all, I had some scaffolding boards left over from my garage build so I built a work bench...finished with polyx "terra" tints left over from the house renovation..

In essence it was free, and is jolly sturdy!


----------



## WoodMangler

Made a 'Yarn Tree' for a relative who knits. Wood is sycamore, pivot is an old roller-blade bearing. Height about 7".


----------



## woodenstx

craigclavin":3uiym21v said:


> Hello all, I had some scaffolding boards left over from my garage build so I built a work bench...finished with polyx "terra" tints left over from the house renovation..
> 
> In essence it was free, and is jolly sturdy!




Whip the lower shelf out of that and you've got a pretty cool looking dining table... well I think so anyway :lol:


----------



## MarkDennehy

_"Rustic"_ cheese press.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it


----------



## DiscoStu

Well the last thing I made was a module cup cake stand. It's made with 9 different size circles so you can have a combination of sizes. Up to 7 tiers. It all comes apart for storage. I also made the trammel for my router to cut them all out with. 

I'm quite pleased with the trammel as it's infinitely adjustable and worked really well. 






My wife made the cake, I'm not skilled with decorating!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WolfyPete

Made this little sign for my side gate (hammer)


----------



## xy mosian

As above, a couple of stools of european oak. Starting with two 30mm. thick boards everything else done by hand.




The spindles made with a No.5, a block plane, wooden spokeshave, and scraper.
Seat was shaped with a small hollowing plane, spokeshave, and scraper.
Finish is spirit stain, shellac sanding sealer and chilled wax.

Thanks for looking,
xy


----------



## monkeybiter

Excellent result of an awful lot of hard work. I'd be far too lazy to leave the machines turned off.


----------



## xy mosian

monkeybiter":3pg4rj8x said:


> Excellent result of an awful lot of hard work. I'd be far too lazy to leave the machines turned off.



Thanks monkeybiter. I actually prefer the piece and quiet of hand work. That and the fact I don't have a useable lathe at the required size.
I did spend time trying to work out how to use a pole lathe with a low foot lift. I think I have it but it will need to wait until next year now.

xy


----------



## Woodchips2

Well done xy, they look nice =D> =D> =D> 

I saw a stool like that last week at the Devon Guild of Craftsmen http://www.crafts.org.uk priced at £825 but it didn't look as nice as yours :roll: 

Regards Keith


----------



## custard

xy mosian":v5id5281 said:


> As above, a couple of stools of european oak. Starting with two 30mm. thick boards everything else done by hand.
> 
> xy



Well done, shaping a seat with through tenons is hard work!


----------



## devonwoody

xy, My compliments added to above posts.


----------



## Racers

Cracking stools xy.

Pete


----------



## Sheffield Tony

I like those stools too. I thought from the first line of the post you must have used a pole or treadle lathe, but I see it is just a lot of care with planes and a shave. Yery good. Even bigger accomplishment to make two that match ! 

Who needs these newfangled power tools anyway. I bet in another century there won't be many people still getting pleasure from using 100 year old Festool kit !


----------



## WolfyPete

This is a horse shoe sign I did for a friend


----------



## RogerP

Sheffield Tony":f6qspuhi said:


> .......... I bet in another century there won't be many people still getting pleasure from using 100 year old Festool kit !


It'll be bung the timber in input side of the CNC and press the button, have a cuppa and a biscuit, then the finished item pops out the other


----------



## skipdiver

Great stools. The sort of thing i aspire to make but will probably never get around to.

Wolfey, that little dog sign is cool. Is it just drawn on and with what?


----------



## woodenstx

RogerP":3678zfy9 said:


> Sheffield Tony":3678zfy9 said:
> 
> 
> 
> .......... I bet in another century there won't be many people still getting pleasure from using 100 year old Festool kit !
> 
> 
> 
> It'll be bung the timber in input side of the CNC and press the button, have a cuppa and a biscuit, then the finished item pops out the other
Click to expand...



Nahh, It'll be draw the item in CAD (actually in 100 eyars it'll probably be Think the item in CAD), hit print and voila out of the container sized 3D printer that takes ground up trees/rocks/children/animals and makes "fine antique furniture"


----------



## Sheffield Tony

woodenstuart":vur3dtjx said:


> RogerP":vur3dtjx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sheffield Tony":vur3dtjx said:
> 
> 
> 
> .......... I bet in another century there won't be many people still getting pleasure from using 100 year old Festool kit !
> 
> 
> 
> It'll be bung the timber in input side of the CNC and press the button, have a cuppa and a biscuit, then the finished item pops out the other
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Nahh, It'll be draw the item in CAD (actually in 100 eyars it'll probably be Think the item in CAD), hit print and voila out of the container sized 3D printer that takes ground up trees/rocks/children/animals and makes "fine antique furniture"
Click to expand...


You guys really are optimists. Equally likely in 100 (or so) years time you won't be able to afford something made from an actual _tree_. [Think the Bladerunner scene with the exotic dancer. Deckard: "It's artificial ?" Zhora: "Of course it is. Do you think I'd be working in a place like this if I could afford a real snake ?"]

But I'm wandering off topic.


----------



## devonwoody

If you have a 3mtr.. length of Oak 150mm thick ad 250mm wide you will need some machinery even in 100 years time :wink:


----------



## xy mosian

Hi all, and thank you for the comments.
Woodchips2, 
thank you. I'll bear that in mind if anyone asks for any.
custard, 
the seats were shaped before assembly, then it was only a trimming excercise.
devonwoody, 
thank you DW.
Racers, 
thank you Pete, I hope they don't crack, but that's life after all.
Sheffield Tony, 
they don't actually match. One of the legs is off. When I place one upside down and try to place the other on the legs three are ok but one if off more than I would like. If I turn the top one around another one doesn't match. Thank you anyway.
Totally off-topic but do you know of a pole lathe arrangement for someone with low foot lift? Less than 6" in my case.
skipdiver,
Give it a whirl, all you have to lose is time, and a little bit of timber. I get a kick out of trying to read the grain.

Thanks again, xy.


----------



## DTR

This is the first time I've logged into the forum for about 3 weeks; it's nice to see people are still arguing about cap irons and sharpening 

Anyway, I've given up woodworking so that I can finally pursue my dream of a career in aeronautical engineering:


----------



## Setch

Oh, that is lovely! Looks just like the coastguard sea-king I used to see on holiday in Pembrokeshire.

Yesterday I made these budget mft dogs using 20mm plastic conduit I had spare, and a 35p pack of straight couplers. Each coupler makes 4 dogs.

Also in shot are my rail-dogs, courtesy of my dad's little metal working lathe, I can't take credit for those.


----------



## Chrispy

Just finished these chairs now ready for delivery.


----------



## DiscoStu

That's a big job if they were all made from scratch. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Nice work. The customer is always right, I suppose - I wouldn't have them in my house. Horrible ... but it doesn't pay to have an opinion when you're being paid to make things, does it? :lol:


----------



## Chrispy

Yes I know but when you are copying you have to go with it, shame as the rest of the house is truly magnificent. I did sub out the turning to a guy who has a cnc lathe and the upholstery to someone who knows what they are doing.


----------



## thetyreman

nice job chrispy, I like them chairs =D>


----------



## WoodMangler

Made another two yarn trees, as in http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post1094055.html#p1094055.


----------



## Cordy

Small Oak table
top 13 x 16 inches, sides are A4 size


----------



## otter

phil.p":3bhej47o said:


> Nice work. The customer is always right, I suppose - I wouldn't have them in my house. Horrible ... but it doesn't pay to have an opinion when you're being paid to make things, does it? :lol:




:lol: I quite like them. Wish I had the time and skill to make them myself!


----------



## monkeybiter

The small oak table is quite charming, the grain direction on the top surprises me, don't know why?
Lovely.


----------



## Cordy

> The small oak table is quite charming, the grain direction on the top surprises me, don't know why?
> Lovely.



MB quite right too (homer) 
Just using up some off-cuts


----------



## Moonsafari69

Cordy":1zq530qg said:


> Small Oak table
> top 13 x 16 inches, sides are A4 size


How did you fix on the top there Cordy?


----------



## Cordy

Moon
Pocket hole system; no glue used on this table


----------



## Moonsafari69

Cordy":2p36hq33 said:


> Moon
> Pocket hole system; no glue used on this table


Cheeky pocket holes. Nice design for a little table, especially the legs. I like the cut outs.


----------



## Cordy

Found the shape 'design' on search engine for Silhouettes 

They have got a use for it already; For films, internet relay to main TV via laptop
Out with the Argos Catalogue; in with la table :lol:


----------



## xy mosian

I am madly trying to prevent my wife seeing that Oak table! Very nice.

xy


----------



## xy mosian

I needed a comfortable chair for watching instructional videos about woodworking.






Thanks for looking,
xy


----------



## monkeybiter

That's rather impressive! Stupid question but 'Is the back strong enough to lean on?' If it is then it's even more impressive.


----------



## xy mosian

monkeybiter":6kvjcf1e said:


> That's rather impressive! Stupid question but 'Is the back strong enough to lean on?' If it is then it's even more impressive.



Thank you very much Mike. 
That is not a stupid question at all, one which has had me thinking since I cut the first stave. No audible cracking noises yet although I am sure it would not do well in a bar room fight.
When I was drawing it out my thoughts were something like this:- Most of the users weight goes straight down through the backside, no problem. From my memory of applied maths, nearly fifty years ago, at an angle of 15 degrees very little of the weight is actually at right angles to the staves. The combined cross sectional area of the staves, most of the way up is about 25mm x 48mm. Would I trust a piece of Oak of those dimensions, broadly yes, therefore it's OK, I hope.
Seriously if I were to make another then the section of the staves would be thicker. As this is for me then a breakage means starting at seat level with thicker staves. My other concern is whether the seat will split out along the grain behind the staves. Fortunately there is an easy fix to that, namely a brass strap around the back.
I am lucky to have seen the reaction of around half a dozen folk who have tried it out, that is a very nice smile after about 5 seconds when they realise the comfortable nature, That and your kind words mean a lot.

Thanks again xy


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Cordy, that's a cracking job =D> 
:arrow: XY, that's one cool chair. Love it =D>


----------



## n0legs

DTR":37wdqb1q said:


> This is the first time I've logged into the forum for about 3 weeks; it's nice to see people are still arguing about cap irons and sharpening
> 
> Anyway, I've given up woodworking so that I can finally pursue my dream of a career in aeronautical engineering:




Dave, excellent  =D>


----------



## xy mosian

n0legs":kpefetb8 said:


> :arrow: Cordy, that's a cracking job =D>
> :arrow: XY, that's one cool chair. Love it =D>



Thank you Nolegs. You know what it is time, a few tools, a bit of wood and nowt else to do.
Thanks again,
xy


----------



## DTR

*Cordy:* love the table!
*XY:* love the chair!
*n0legs:* thanks!


----------



## monkeybiter

Bowl >>> Carving Mallet >>>


----------



## xy mosian

Hey that's nice Mike. Have you weighed it?
If I might ask, how did you decide the angle of the head?

xy


----------



## monkeybiter

Thanks XY, no haven't weighed it [will if you want].
I picked the slight taper by eye, you may see there is a centre dimple in the wedge so if I want I can pop it back in the lathe and 'adjust' it. (hammer)


----------



## xy mosian

No don't worry about the weight Mike, thanks, it looks to have a good heft. In the end that's all that really matters. As for the angle, I often work like that too. "If it looks right, it probably is." is a phrase I often heard as a youngster and ferquently use.
A very nice mallet.
xy


----------



## n0legs

monkeybiter":j316b73v said:


> Bowl >>> Carving Mallet >>>



Smart Mike, very smart =D>


----------



## garethharvey

This was the last major task, our kitchen. Used 18mm ply for the carcasses, American Popular for the doors / drawers. Took some time to finish


----------



## Wildman

cgarry":2wfew37o said:


> whiskywill":2wfew37o said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you buy a plan for that or design it yourself? :wink:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazingly that is all my own design. A design that was so good I was able to make 2 of them from the same short piece of 2x4.
Click to expand...

I take it you are American, in the UK we say 4 x 2


----------



## Cordy

Fantastic Gareth !!
=D> =D>


----------



## monkeybiter

This is just half a lump of log, Black Poplar I think, from a nearby church. Not meant to be good [that's just as well], just a bit of a doodle really, it will sit in the garden with a plant pot on it.





I thought the dark marking within the wood rather helped this one:


----------



## thetyreman

monkeybiter":j3tbsrwi said:


> This is just half a lump of log, Black Poplar I think, from a nearby church. Not meant to be good [that's just as well], just a bit of a doodle really, it will sit in the garden with a plant pot on it.
> 
> I thought the dark marking within the wood rather helped this one:



cool carvings, it has a medieval vibe about it, I like it a lot


----------



## beganasatree

Hi Gareth,
that is TOP NOTCH you be over the moon with it??I know i would be and I I have been fitting for over 30 years.

Peter.


----------



## thetyreman

just finished my first workbench!


----------



## OM99

Another tray made out of cherry and oak faced mdf this time, a maple and sapele tealight holder, an oak and iroko box.

nothing too complicated for my skill level .


----------



## custard

thetyreman":o3pus8zm said:


> just finished my first workbench!



Looks excellent! Thumbs up for the attention to detail you've shown with things like the quarter round bead in the tool tray.

=D>


----------



## Stanleymonkey

DTR":3dtahte3 said:


> *Cordy:* love the table!
> *XY:* love the chair!
> *n0legs:* thanks!



Love it - I think my son will be getting something similar before the end of the year!!


----------



## n0legs

garethharvey":q59sggnf said:


> This was the last major task, our kitchen. Used 18mm ply for the carcasses, American Popular for the doors / drawers. Took some time to finish



Freaking love that worktop =D> =D>


----------



## n0legs

monkeybiter":1amzk9rt said:


> This is just half a lump of log, Black Poplar I think, from a nearby church. Not meant to be good [that's just as well], just a bit of a doodle really, it will sit in the garden with a plant pot on it.
> 
> I thought the dark marking within the wood rather helped this one:




Cool Mike =D>


----------



## n0legs

thetyreman":3v9tzgdo said:


> just finished my first workbench!




Been following the thread. 
That's a cracking bench Tyreman, you've got to be happy with that =D>


----------



## n0legs

OM99":2rhyzvg3 said:


> Another tray made out of cherry and oak faced mdf this time, a maple and sapele tealight holder, an oak and iroko box.
> 
> nothing too complicated for my skill level .



All good but I really like the look of that box =D>


----------



## Simo

Just finished this 5 string fretless bass. The body is made from Black Walnut, with a Black Limba bookmatched top. The neck is Maple, with an Ebony fingerboard.


----------



## MattR

Fab looking bass


----------



## NazNomad

100% ''upcycled'' timber.


----------



## thetyreman

@simo, another amazing bass, you should be proud of that


----------



## Austinisgreat

Fantastic work Simo! Is the pick-up a piezzo under the bridge, or buried between the walnut / limba sandwich?

Beautiful guitar, well done.

Cheers

Andrew


----------



## Simo

Austinisgreat":e0k89tyq said:


> Fantastic work Simo! Is the pick-up a piezzo under the bridge, or buried between the walnut / limba sandwich?
> 
> Beautiful guitar, well done.



Thanks very much. There's no magnetic pickups, each individual bridge saddle has a piezo transducer fitted, they're connected to a GraphTech preamp/buffer, with a volume control and mid/dark eq swtich.


----------



## skipdiver

I am totally tone deaf but keep getting the urge to build a guitar. That looks superb Simo.

I like that bench too Naz and it's more likely i'd build something like that than a gee-tar. Is it out of your head, or did you have a plan to work from?


----------



## OM99

Simo, awesome guitar love the grain of the wood.

Naznomad, great "upcycling", would go well on my deck . (just realised it will be hanged)

If you got some plans for it, would love a copy .

Olivier


----------



## NazNomad

skipdiver":2135oaqy said:


> ...did you have a plan to work from?



It's from April Wilkerson

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaMWwxuPWZE


... plans on her blog here https://www.wilkerdos.com/2015/05/diy-c ... rch-swing/ 

&

https://www.wilkerdos.com/product/porch ... templates/


----------



## skipdiver

NazNomad":237vm227 said:


> skipdiver":237vm227 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...did you have a plan to work from?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's from April Wilkerson
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaMWwxuPWZE
> 
> 
> ... plans on her blog here https://www.wilkerdos.com/2015/05/diy-c ... rch-swing/
> 
> &
> 
> https://www.wilkerdos.com/product/porch ... templates/
Click to expand...


A Wumman? Doing woodwork? Whatever next?


----------



## Woodmonkey

Great looking bass simo, but what are the things on the fret board if it's fretless?


----------



## Simo

Woodmonkey":39q92ivp said:


> Great looking bass simo, but what are the things on the fret board if it's fretless?



Thanks  It's what's known as a lined fingerboard.. strips of Maple veneer are glued into each 'fret' position (they're flush with the Ebony fingerboard), they're just a visual guide to help the player hit the right notes.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

And for those of you who don't know what a fretless bass sounds like - 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRjiMN2 ... tml5=False


----------



## whiskywill

skipdiver":34hf13qw said:


> A Wumman? Doing woodwork? Whatever next?



Some even make a living doing it. https://www.youtube.com/user/darbinorvar


----------



## NazNomad

She makes some lovely stuff, but her voice makes my teeth itch.


----------



## brianhabby

NazNomad":3b3p15jb said:


> Darbin makes some lovely stuff, but her voice makes my teeth itch.


 

I love watching her.

regards

Brian


----------



## brianhabby

Just finished this Christmas Tree bandsaw box, still can't decide whether to decorate it or leave it as is. It's about 9 inches tall.






regards

Brian


----------



## Cordy

Darbin, I used to watch her; she had a Dewalt table saw like mine  

Then when she got better known had to put far too much stuff out -- which I thought lowered her standards

Crossed her off my list :roll:


----------



## monkeybiter

brianhabby":1ik1v9vn said:


> Just finished this Christmas Tree bandsaw box, still can't decide whether to decorate it or leave it as is. It's about 9 inches tall.



How about baubles for drawer pulls?


----------



## skipdiver

NazNomad":34x9b963 said:


> Darbin makes some lovely stuff, but her voice makes my teeth itch.



Strewth! I clicked on that link and managed to last 29 seconds.


----------



## MrTeroo

Made a shooting board today





Quick test on some scrap turned this





Into this





Then I made a home for the shooting board









I really enjoyed today


----------



## brianhabby

monkeybiter":1spuoc8w said:


> brianhabby":1spuoc8w said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished this Christmas Tree bandsaw box, still can't decide whether to decorate it or leave it as is. It's about 9 inches tall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about baubles for drawer pulls?
Click to expand...

Thought about that but I have have decided to leave it as is. I might make another just for decorating though.

regards

Brian


----------



## bench_monkey

I've been lurking for a long time as I forgot my password but I was inspired by coleys window step by step guide so thought I share a couple of my last jobs. Had a bit of help from a top cnc operator and also a great machinist, I'm happy with these!











Current job, bay window with a radius cill hot off the cnc






Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## thetyreman

finished my workbench this evening, with the vice installed and vice jaws, it's actually usable


----------



## garethharvey

With what very little time I have, this has taken me 6 weeks so far, will be a grandfather myself by the time it's finished


----------



## NazNomad

Finally got my planes where I can get to them, when I rarely do.

Before pics ...











'Old boot' idea pinched from some Aussie on YouTube that does fencing.


... and the new storage, much more aesthetically pleasing than my old workboots.
It's rough and ready but it does what it's supposed to.


----------



## MattRoberts

garethharvey":rb9wlv83 said:


> With what very little time I have, this has taken me 6 weeks so far, will be a grandfather myself by the time it's finished


Wow! 

What is it?


----------



## skipdiver

MattRoberts":2j44k6g0 said:


> garethharvey":2j44k6g0 said:
> 
> 
> 
> With what very little time I have, this has taken me 6 weeks so far, will be a grandfather myself by the time it's finished
> 
> 
> 
> Wow!
> 
> What is it?
Click to expand...


Grandfather clock base i assumed.


----------



## garethharvey

skipdiver":3qjdeucy said:


> MattRoberts":3qjdeucy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> garethharvey":3qjdeucy said:
> 
> 
> 
> With what very little time I have, this has taken me 6 weeks so far, will be a grandfather myself by the time it's finished
> 
> 
> 
> Wow!
> 
> What is it?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Grandfather clock base i assumed.
Click to expand...


You are correct, I seen this clock in a recent episode of Fine Woodworking. It's by Edward Darchuk, an American woodworker


----------



## skipdiver

Very fine it looks too. Making a clock has been on my to do list for a long time, though i never contemplated a Grandfather. Maybe i should.


----------



## ColeyS1

bench_monkey":2v57jqad said:


> I've been lurking for a long time as I forgot my password but I was inspired by coleys window step by step guide so thought I share a couple of my last jobs. Had a bit of help from a top cnc operator and also a great machinist, I'm happy with these!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Current job, bay window with a radius cill hot off the cnc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Nice tidy job bench monkey, they look great !!!!

Coley


----------



## bench_monkey

Cheers coley, got the bay together this afternoon, lights tomorrow!







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## custard

Finished another Shaker cabinet ready for Christmas delivery, 100% solid wood (including the back and the panels) in some pretty nice Curly Cherry, every scrap came from the same tree for consistent colour matching. My rubbish phone photo doesn't really do the timber justice, when you move around it the rippled figure is so intense that the whole thing just shimmers like it's a hologram!






Plenty of hand cut dovetails






And lots of cute detailing like drawer slips, thin drawer sides, and muntins











I made two of these in 2016, along with a third that was quite a bit larger in Tiger Oak with a more Arts & Crafts spin to it.

I've got an order for a similar Shaker "cabinet on cabinet" in 2017, slightly larger and with an extra two drawers and a more elaborately fitted interior to the top cupboard, that will again be solid timber construction but built from some spectacular Fiddleback Maple. Made a start last week on the cutting list, it's nice wood, planes sweetly as well given the rippled figure,


----------



## woodbrains

Hello,

Splendid work, Custard. Just the sort if thing that 'does it' for me.

Well done.

Mike.


----------



## MrTeroo

Beautiful cabinet. I would love to have a tenth of your skill.

What is a muntin?


----------



## custard

MrTeroo":23tfpn32 said:


> Beautiful cabinet. I would love to have a tenth of your skill.
> 
> What is a muntin?



A muntin is the central support in the bottom of the drawer, it allows it to carry a bit more of a load without sagging. I always make sure the Cedar of Lebanon drawer bottom has unbroken grain that runs right across the muntin, just one of those tiny little touches of traditional cabinet making that you don't get on the High Street and that justifies a higher price.

Incidentally, having looked at your bench build I can absolutely assure you that a cabinet like this isn't all that much of a stretch for you. In truth it's just straightforward rectilinear furniture making that's all straight lines and 90 degree angles. To be honest I sometimes get a bit bored making this kind of cabinetry and case work. What I really enjoy is chair making, with compound angles, no reference surfaces, and highly stressed joinery, chairs are way more technically demanding. This is a chair I made in 2015 that went with a matching desk, it was all in heavily rippled Black Walnut. That was a fun build!


----------



## Fitzroy

You see, I'd pass right over a photo of that chair thinking it a bit ordinary, where as the cabinet seems like something else! Funny how a lack of real understanding of how a piece of furniture works and is made leads is amateurs to the wrong conclusion. Both splendid though! 

F.


----------



## woodbrains

Fitzroy":nbtluyyc said:


> You see, I'd pass right over a photo of that chair thinking it a bit ordinary, where as the cabinet seems like something else! Funny how a lack of real understanding of how a piece of furniture works and is made leads is amateurs to the wrong conclusion. Both splendid though!
> 
> F.



Hello,

This is why it is hard to make a living being a maker. The amount if work required to make just a 'simple' chair is disproportionately high, in comparison to the value the customer ascribs to it. Quite often a dining table and chairs set will be priced so that the table, ( high perceived value) makes up for the poor price the customer is willing to pay for the chairs. It is quite easy to make a loss on chairs and have to make up for it on the table, which might have taken less than half the time to make than the chairs, but people will pay five times more for!

Treacherous business!

Mike.


----------



## SteveF

Fitzroy":1vgmies6 said:


> You see, I'd pass right over a photo of that chair thinking it a bit ordinary, where as the cabinet seems like something else! Funny how a lack of real understanding of how a piece of furniture works and is made leads is amateurs to the wrong conclusion. Both splendid though!
> 
> F.


how strange
I look at that chair and go WOW
I look at the cabinet and the way it is constructed and think I could never make in a million years
but
I think is ugly
this is not meant to be a detrimental comment so please not be offended
I could not make either to 1% of that quality
I am in awe of your skills, just don't see the beauty in this piece
if i have offended anyone...sorry

Steve


----------



## MattRoberts

Fantastic work Custard! I can attest to the beautiful grain, and I only saw it part complete. Lovely craftsmanship


----------



## MrTeroo

custard":24h5th0h said:


> Incidentally, having looked at your bench build I can absolutely assure you that a cabinet like this isn't all that much of a stretch for you. In truth it's just straightforward rectilinear furniture making that's all straight lines and 90 degree angles.



Very kind of you to say that. I can only dream of the finish and attention to detail you get.

I have only worked with B&Q / Wickes wood so far. In the new year I am going to attempt to make a hardwood wall hung tool cabinet, so we will see (homer)


----------



## skipdiver

MrTeroo":2g57c0nn said:


> custard":2g57c0nn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Incidentally, having looked at your bench build I can absolutely assure you that a cabinet like this isn't all that much of a stretch for you. In truth it's just straightforward rectilinear furniture making that's all straight lines and 90 degree angles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very kind of you to say that. I can only dream of the finish and attention to detail you get.
> 
> I have only worked with B&Q / Wickes wood so far. In the new year I am going to attempt to make a hardwood wall hung tool cabinet, so we will see (homer)
Click to expand...


Which is possibly the worst wood known to man and consequently difficult to work.


----------



## custard

> This is why it is hard to make a living being a maker. The amount if work required to make just a 'simple' chair is disproportionately high, in comparison to the value the customer ascribs to it. Quite often a dining table and chairs set will be priced so that the table, ( high perceived value) makes up for the poor price the customer is willing to pay for the chairs. It is quite easy to make a loss on chairs and have to make up for it on the table, which might have taken less than half the time to make than the chairs, but people will pay five times more for!



Yes, that's about the shape of it. I can make a piece like the Shaker cabinet-on-cabinet in five or six weeks, and as long as it's made in some drop dead gorgeous timber that you'll never see on the High Street it'll sell for between £5,500 and £7,000. From a commercial perspective that works. However, I can't make a chair (or at least the kind of chairs I want to make) in under two weeks, if I'm really honest it's usually closer to three, and I can't get more than £1,000 or £1,200. So pretty much the only time the numbers work out is if the chair is a companion piece to a desk or a dressing table, and they're both made in some really distinctive timber so that it would be impossible to match it with a High Street bought chair. After you factor in overheads I still end up making the chair for minimum wage, but I enjoy it so much I'm generally happy to take on the commission!


----------



## custard

MattRoberts":3grkq01r said:


> Fantastic work Custard! I can attest to the beautiful grain, and I only saw it part complete. Lovely craftsmanship



Kind of you to say so Matt. Actually you saw the first one, this is the second!


----------



## yetloh

I'll second those comments, Custard, lovely work and timber. The fact that neither is particularly to my taste is entirely beside the point - the ability to completely indulge one's own taste and timetable is the luxury of the amateur like me. Having taken four years to complete four chairs (all slightly different) I have huge admiration for someone who can work to that sort of standard quickly and then repeat it several times, but absolutely no desire to attempt anything similar myself. Look forward to seeing more of your work.

Jim


----------



## custard

SteveF":28atdwf8 said:


> just don't see the beauty in this piece
> if i have offended anyone...sorry
> 
> Steve



No offence taken, in fact there are some Shaker design details that I'm not happy with either, but "authenticity" means they stay in. For example, the Shaker top moulding to my thinking just isn't substantial enough to arrest your gaze and keep your attention _within_ the piece of furniture. I try to compensate in a couple of ways, by making the drawer fronts from the most spectacular of the boards and by having matching cruciform panel layouts on the doors, both in an effort to drag the viewer's attention back down, but even so an Arts & Crafts design with a more impressive cornice on the top, works that much better.


----------



## woodbrains

custard":wx7kbs9w said:


> This is why it is hard to make a living being a maker. The amount if work required to make just a 'simple' chair is disproportionately high, in comparison to the value the customer ascribs to it. Quite often a dining table and chairs set will be priced so that the table, ( high perceived value) makes up for the poor price the customer is willing to pay for the chairs. It is quite easy to make a loss on chairs and have to make up for it on the table, which might have taken less than half the time to make than the chairs, but people will pay five times more for!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's about the shape of it. I can make a piece like the Shaker cabinet-on-cabinet in five or six weeks, and as long as it's made in some drop dead gorgeous timber that you'll never see on the High Street it'll sell for between £5,500 and £7,000. From a commercial perspective that works. However, I can't make a chair (or at least the kind of chairs I want to make) in under two weeks, if I'm really honest it's usually closer to three, and I can't get more than £1,000 or £1,200. So pretty much the only time the numbers work out is if the chair is a companion piece to a desk or a dressing table, and they're both made in some really distinctive timber so that it would be impossible to match it with a High Street bought chair. After you factor in overheads I still end up making the chair for minimum wage, but I enjoy it so much I'm generally happy to take on the commission!
Click to expand...


Hello,

I'm glad you can and do, Custard. I just wish I could do so as well, but tried, failed and reluctant to try again. 

Keep up the good work.

Mike.


----------



## n0legs

Well Custard I must say that is a beautiful piece =D> =D> 
For me, the colour and finish is spot on and the size and proportions are just right. 
Thanks for posting.


----------



## memzey

Just awesome. A quality of workmanship that I can't even aspire to. 10/10 Custard.


----------



## custard

woodbrains":2li29wrd said:


> I'm glad you can and do, Custard. I just wish I could do so as well, but tried, failed and reluctant to try again.



I wish! I'm no different from almost all the other furniture makers I know, we hit our targets for some of the year, then the rest of the time it falls off a cliff. Furniture making is a marginal occupation, everyone I know does other things as well, like fitted work, heritage joinery, restoration, kitchens, yacht fit outs, teaching, etc to make the numbers add up.


----------



## John15

Very nice indeed Custard. Congratulations.

John


----------



## OM99

Stunning piece Custard, love the wood.

Oli


----------



## Nelsun

My hat's off to you Custard. Stunning workmanship and attention to detail!


----------



## JonnyW

As per other comments Custard - beautiful piece of work. Like art and architecture, the craft of woodworking at that level, whether you like the piece or not, should evoke emotion and discussion. And I think you have and will achieve that Custard with your Shaker unit.

Really enjoyed reading your comments regarding the time, motion and cost involved. 

Absolutely beautiful work.

Jonny


----------



## DTR

Custard, that is stunning =D>


----------



## thetyreman

amazing work custard, I particularly like the rippled/flamed wood, love the dovetailed drawers too, it's a thing of beauty.


----------



## Froggy

Very nice Custard. It reminds me of Doucette and Wolfe's work, which I love.


----------



## Bm101

Stunning work Custard. What I found really interesting was your post about the chairmaking and the interest of the challenge it presents in comparison. Posts of work like this, and there are many on here, whether its as technical as that chair or stuff that people post that is just very well executed reminds me as a complete novice not to get to bogged down in the minutiae, the distractions if you like. Sharpening or tools or whatever. Two steps forward, one step back and not the other way around. When you have people posting such quality as Custard's chair or Coley's sash window build you raise your standards mentally each time. Granted, I'll have to deal with my skills shortage again tomorrow in my little shed if i get an hour. But it raises the bar. It reminds me that _nearly there_ is not nearly a high enough target.
Cheers 
Chris


----------



## Beau

Beautiful work Custard. I especially like the chair just more my taste. 

What finish did you use on the cherry?

Do you ever use ply for cabinet backs a draw bottoms? I used to do it the proper way but felt the customers never noticed or cared so reverted to veneered ply.

Sorry for the questions


----------



## Woodmonkey

Top drawer stuff custard, hats off to you sir! What finish did you use on the cabinet?


----------



## custard

Thanks Beau.

It was finished with three coats of Osmo. Cherry is a funny one, regular Cherry (without any figure) can be blotchy, so many makers use a gel finish, shellac, or spray lacquer. On figured Cherry however you actually want something with some oil content to make the grain pop, some makers go further and hit it with a dye before oiling, but to my mind that's the point it becomes just a bit too vibrant to live with.

I hear what you say about ply but no, in a solid wood piece I don't use ply for backs, panels, or drawer bottoms. 

If someone buys a suit for the first time from a Saville Row tailor they'll generally be given a little introduction to all the finer points of English tailoring, so they understand and appreciate exactly what it is that they're paying for. I do something similar and walk clients through some of the elements of traditional furniture making, hand cut dovetails, rift sawn legs, Cedar of Lebanon drawer bottoms, Rosewood drawer stops, 0.5mm gaps around doors, beaded flush drawer slips, muntins, clocking the hinge screws, etc, etc. 

I try and charge a viable price with three separate justifications, the furniture is made to fit your home so all dimensions and styling details are up for discussion, the furniture incorporates all those traditional details that add to the pleasure of living with it, and it's built from really special and unique timbers that you'll never find on the High Street. It's a formula that's unlikely to make me rich, but at least it keeps me well away from that race to the bottom with Oak Furniture Land as a serious price comparison!


----------



## Beau

Thanks Custard. I had better give the Osmo a second chance as first experience was underwhelming to say the least.

Like your style talking the customer through various options and helping them understand whats involved and why it's done. Was always scared of charging what I thought was too much so veered away from hidden complexity but probably missed out on some nice jobs from being a coward.


----------



## ColeyS1

Custard, that cupboard is just pure class. Everything about it just oozes quality. Absolutely stunning !

Coley


----------



## thetyreman

not very exciting, but I made myself a shooting board from 18mm plywood, it was so much easier with a workbench, can't wait to get using it.


----------



## Setch

My 2nd proper stab at fitted alcove shelves and a TV unit. My first go was probably the best part of 8 years ago, for a family member, this time was a paying job for one of my better half's co-workers.

MR MDF and softwood par/mouldings, client did all the painting.


----------



## Mr T

I don't get much making time nowadays, I'm usually teaching or preparing for courses. I now limit my making just for long standing customers. For many years I have made boxes for the puzzle maker Peter Stocken http://puzzleplex.co.uk/. This is a box to house a set of puzzles he has made as a Christmas present for his son. Peter will be lining the box himself.

It's American black walnut, Oak burr with ebony stringing with a ployx oil finish.

I think I might need a new camera!

Chris


----------



## Mr T

I don't get much making time nowadays, I'm usually teaching or preparing for courses. I now limit my making just for long standing customers. For many years I have made boxes for the puzzle maker Peter Stocken http://puzzleplex.co.uk/. This is a box to house a set of puzzles he has made as a Christmas present for his son. Peter will be lining the box himself.

It's American black walnut, Oak burr with ebony stringing with a ployx oil finish.

I think I might need a new camera!

Chris


----------



## custard

Mr T":k51vopqu said:


> It's American black walnut, Oak burr with ebony stringing with a ployx oil finish.
> Chris



Nice job. Oak burr often has something special about it, just a certain tightness of grain that makes it ideal for the scale of this type of project.

What's the project in the background, occasional table, stool?


----------



## Mr T

Thanks Custard. That burr is a few pieces left over from a desk and chair project about five years ago. It's unusual in that it's a little darker than usual and also a little softer so easier to cut and joint, some oak burr is a little hard and "stringy" if you know what I mean. Here's the desk and chair, my last big project. This time it's Yorkshire walnut and oak burr.






The project in the background on my OP is the legs from the table we make on the router skills course. It was running last week and a student was coming to pick them up just after I took the pic.

Your earlier comments struck a note with me. My response to the economic realities of furniture making was to move into teaching. But I was reluctant to teach professional courses for students who would not be able tom make a decent living out of the job. So I concentrated on shorter courses for those just planning to enjoy the craft rather than make a living at it.

Chris


----------



## marcros

i really like that chair (and the desk).


----------



## skipdiver

That chair is superb. Desk aint so shabby either and they look lovely together.


----------



## MrTeroo

This isn't the last thing I made, neither is there a lot of woodworking involved, but I thought it was worth showing after a few turntable owners came out of the woodwork on my plinth thread. I made a record cleaning machine last year.

I refuse to pay the extortionate amounts for record cleaning machines when they are just a vacuum in a box, so I made a vacuum in a box.

Works really well and it cost me under £50 to make.


----------



## custard

MrTeroo":1mpr10g5 said:


> I refuse to pay the extortionate amounts for record cleaning machines when they are just a vacuum in a box, so I made a vacuum in a box.
> 
> Works really well and it cost me under £50 to make.



Very clean, very tidy, well conceived, precisely executed. I get the impression you might be a bit of a natural at this woody lark.

=D>


----------



## MrTeroo

Thank you


----------



## brianhabby

Very clever signature MrTeroo 

regards

Brian


----------



## MrTeroo

Thanks, I won't take the credit for it though  

I copied it fron an ascii art site a couple of years ago.

Feel free to use it if you like it.


----------



## skipdiver

That record cleaning machine is genius. I shall be stealing your idea, unless you have patented it of course. :wink:


----------



## david123

Templates for garden chairs that I hope to start in the new year.


----------



## MrTeroo

skipdiver":2aiez6dg said:


> That record cleaning machine is genius. I shall be stealing your idea, unless you have patented it of course. :wink:



Go ahead, be my guest.

Lot of luck involed. eg finding a broken turntable at a car boot for 50p to give me the turning mechanism.

Most time was spent gathering the bits.

Thinking about it, maybe I should call it 'The Womble RCM'

Here's the recipe

Ingredients:
Under Desk Pedestal - £10
Cylinder Vac Car Boot - £5
Broken turntable with spindle - £0.50
Round drill 110m saw cutter ebay - £11.48
MDF offcut - £1
Knob - £0

Black spiral non split conduit 16mm OD - £1.55
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121489246920?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Plastic plumbing pipe - £0
Right angle plumbing pipe adapter - £0

Clear PVC tube ebay (20mm x 2mm x 750mm) - £7.99
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290950670562?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

End stoppers ebay - £2.89
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plastic-B...d-Ribbed-Tube-Inserts-UK-Stock-/311447244471?

Self adhesive camera body light trap ebay - £3.80
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221818583131?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Empty Mae Ploy Thai red curry paste tub - £0


----------



## DTR




----------



## monkeybiter

That looks really nice, excellent use of magnet too. Are the washers superglued on?


----------



## Cordy

Coffee table
Oak top - 400 x 600 mm - from waste bin British Hardwood; legs glued 4 x 18mm square Walnut also from BH





Phone table; scrap bin BH


----------



## thetyreman

made a propeller spindle thingy and a spoon/ladle just before Christmas, these were well received Christmas gifts


----------



## NazNomad

DTR":5zbsnba9 said:


>



That's lovely, was it from a pattern anywhere?


----------



## nev

At the risk of embarrassing myself in front of the scrollers, did this on the bandsaw last week with a slightly iffy 10mm blade on a cheap bandsaw with an offcut of engineered oak just to see how it came out. The Missus was so impressed she now insists I get a scroll saw!

pattern here .. http://woodgears.ca/reindeer/index.html











Apologies for the picture quality


----------



## RogerP

Heat engine.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

First bandsaw box I've ever made, Christmas present for my niece. Finishing touches were made at 10pm on Christmas Eve!!



























Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Blister

Sawdust=manglitter":23x178xi said:


> First bandsaw box I've ever made, Christmas present for my niece. Finishing touches were made at 10pm on Christmas Eve!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



:shock: A first bandsaw box , it looks lovely , Your niece will love it , Good job


----------



## thetyreman

for a first box Sawdust=manglitter, that's pretty friggin good! your niece will love that


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Blister":ec0xwdsq said:


> :shock: A first bandsaw box , it looks lovely , Your niece will love it , Good job



Thanks Blister! Not for the faint hearted, clocked about 25hrs, half of which was probably hand sanding! Hand carving the purpleheart hearts probably took 5hrs.

Apart from the visible cut lines I'm really pleased with it and was kinda sorry to see it go, but yes my niece loved it


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

And thanks Tyre Man


----------



## TFrench

Christmas present for my mum - oak bracket to display her tower of london poppy. 



20161211_121017, on Flickr


----------



## Setch

Mahogany, ebony and pau ferro veneer box for an eclipse honing guide, Xmas present for my brother. True oil finish, knocked back to satin with steel wool.


----------



## MrTeroo

That's nice, you should have incorporated some stops into the lid or base at the correct distances to set it up for chisels and plane irons.


----------



## custard

TFrench":3kgo63jn said:


> Christmas present for my mum - oak bracket to display her tower of london poppy.



That's a smart solution to the problem of preserving and displaying a special artefact. The gothic styling works well and the grain is nicely symmetrical. A 6mm wide, 3mm deep hole in the base would have been useful to locate the bottom of the stem, but doesn't change the fact that what you've achieved is really commendable.

=D>


----------



## Setch

MrTeroo":15w3l6ke said:


> That's nice, you should have incorporated some stops into the lid or base at the correct distances to set it up for chisels and plane irons.



Yes! I realised this about 10 seconds after the last coat of Tru Oil went on!


----------



## DTR

Cordy":2a60piu8 said:


> Coffee table
> Oak top - 400 x 600 mm - from waste bin British Hardwood; legs glued 4 x 18mm square Walnut also from BH
> 
> Phone table; scrap bin BH



I like that, all the more so as the wood came from the scrap bin =D> 




thetyreman":2a60piu8 said:


> made a propeller spindle thingy and a spoon/ladle just before Christmas, these were well received Christmas gifts



Great stuff. I might have a go at one of those propeller thingies; it's a step up from the paper aeroplanes my nieces keep asking me to make  




RogerP":2a60piu8 said:


> Heat engine.



Awesome =D> I definitely want to build one of these one day. Probably a bit advanced for me yet though, I haven't even built a wobbler yet


----------



## DTR

monkeybiter":3goakkg5 said:


> That looks really nice, excellent use of magnet too. Are the washers superglued on?



Thanks. Yes the washers are just superglued on, nothing hi-tech here  




NazNomad":3goakkg5 said:


> That's lovely, was it from a pattern anywhere?



Thanks. No pattern I'm afraid, I was making it up as I went along


----------



## DTR

Setch":dxor4ht8 said:


> Mahogany, ebony and pau ferro veneer box for an eclipse honing guide, Xmas present for my brother. True oil finish, knocked back to satin with steel wool.



Lovely box =D>


----------



## TFrench

custard":3jvejgfj said:


> TFrench":3jvejgfj said:
> 
> 
> 
> Christmas present for my mum - oak bracket to display her tower of london poppy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a smart solution to the problem of preserving and displaying a special artefact. The gothic styling works well and the grain is nicely symmetrical. A 6mm wide, 3mm deep hole in the base would have been useful to locate the bottom of the stem, but doesn't change the fact that what you've achieved is really commendable.
> 
> =D>
Click to expand...

Thanks custard - there is a corresponding hole it's sitting in to display it out at an angle. The gothic arch also reminded me of an artillery shell, which seemed fitting (I have my tower poppy in a WW1 trench art shell "vase")


----------



## Beau

Not remotely furniture related or classy but made this last week. Thing is with rough work it's very satisfying due to how much you get done in a short space of time. 1 day in the workshop cutting to length and few joints and a day and half to erect. 2 1/2 days work on a large piece of furniture and you would have hardly touched it.


----------



## gregmcateer

Perfect - My kinda finish!!


----------



## gregmcateer

nev":nvl5uxxv said:


> At the risk of embarrassing myself in front of the scrollers,



He looks great, Nev. Really characterful.

And if he gets you a scrollsaw licence, he's pretty much perfect!!


----------



## yetloh

Setch":2xnevjni said:


> Mahogany, ebony and pau ferro veneer box for an eclipse honing guide, Xmas present for my brother. True oil finish, knocked back to satin with steel wool.



That's fab, a man after my own heart - I love making workshop items unnecesarily posh.

Jim


----------



## Phil Pascoe

An unnecessarily posh workshop box ... for an unnecessary workshop item?
(he ducks, covers his head and runs for the hills :lol: )




Sorry, I just couldn't resist.  Beautiful little box.


----------



## Penny

My first experiment with Milliput:


----------



## MrTeroo

That looks nice. How is the Milliput involved?


----------



## Penny

MrTeroo":16vpw03x said:


> That looks nice. How is the Milliput involved?



The two black lines. I cut a groove for the Milliput, let it harden fully, then went back to turn the top to get the sharp lines. It is finished with a glass tealight holder from Ikea.


----------



## philipjdall

After making chopping boards for all of the family this Christmas, SWMBO was rather disappointed that I didn't make one for us... So knocked this up with the oak offcuts and two ash butterflies. First time doing them, rather pleased with the result!


----------



## Lons

First go at a nautilus shell which has been on my "to try" list for a while. Just a bit of softwood to tyry chosen for the grain but it was quite dense and heavy so not sure what it is.
Also a quick rabbit puzzle for my 3 year old granddaughter.


----------



## John15

I like the snail shell Lons - very attractive.

John


----------



## Ttrees

Wow , some great stuff here in the last while ...
That shell is stunning :shock: 
Looks like it took some work, Its got me wondering how you done it .
I must say, I never liked the look of knots in pine until now .
Spent yesterday doing something else other than hand planing 
and tried a load of tools out for the first time, which I had hidden away .
Reluctantly made a shooting board by hand as I wanted to get my tablesaw commissioned first .
Which involved other rabbit holes like making basic sharpening setup V.2 
Everything involves a rabbit hole that I can think of at the moment (hammer) 
I spent a good while trying to find a video (At least, I think it was in a video) of someone using a 
"speed square" for shooting 45 degrees, which they routed out a dado for the tool to rest in 
Just wanted to see it again to get an impression how good it might be,
but got fed up searching in the end .


----------



## marcros

philipjdall":1l2swsj1 said:


> After making chopping boards for all of the family this Christmas, SWMBO was rather disappointed that I didn't make one for us... So knocked this up with the oak offcuts and two ash butterflies. First time doing them, rather pleased with the result!



is that rippled oak?


----------



## philipjdall

Yes, it was on the side of a larger board. Only this small portion was rippled. Is that normal?

It was very tricky to work with, p/t just tore out terribly. Lots of patience with a block plane was needed. But good practice I'm sure!


----------



## marcros

no, i have not seen it before, either in person or in pictures. Nice work!


----------



## davem62

Lons 
really like the shell ,the grain and colour make the shape stand out,

david


----------



## MrTeroo

Ttrees":2l60k5if said:


> I spent a good while trying to find a video (At least, I think it was in a video) of someone using a
> "speed square" for shooting 45 degrees, which they routed out a dado for the tool to rest in
> Just wanted to see it again to get an impression how good it might be,
> but got fed up searching in the end .



Was it this? (at just after 7 minutes)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqWbgkl_ryM


----------



## n0legs

davem62":1n51qvlg said:


> Lons
> really like the shell ,the grain and colour make the shape stand out,
> 
> david




Agreed, 
Well done Lons =D>


----------



## n0legs

Setch":1l41fp7m said:


> Mahogany, ebony and pau ferro veneer box for an eclipse honing guide, Xmas present for my brother. True oil finish, knocked back to satin with steel wool.



Bloody lovely =D> =D>


----------



## n0legs

Haven't posted anything for a while.
So,,,, flip top mobile base for the thicknesser. Poor thing is a bit work weary, but it does deserve somewhere nice to sit.
I did make the base big enough to fit a replacement when the time comes :wink: 









And, I took a load of this:-





Melted it in the oven, gave it a *big* squeeze in a mold, of sorts.
Rough turned them into some of these:-





Then I made them into a pair of wheels for my table saw


----------



## Lons

n0legs":pai2gepi said:


> davem62":pai2gepi said:
> 
> 
> 
> Lons
> really like the shell ,the grain and colour make the shape stand out,
> 
> david
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed,
> Well done Lons =D>
Click to expand...


Thanks for the comments guys



> ttrees Looks like it took some work, Its got me wondering how you done it



Not as difficult as it looks just fiddly, 32 pieces, and sanding was a chore because much of it was by hand as I don't have a flexi sanding pad like the one in the video.

Check out youtube for videos.

Bob


----------



## Buckeye

Finished this Sam Maloof fish sculpture. I had seen it on the Sam Maloof flickr album and thought I should have a go at that. This is elm from the big house estate next to me.

Roughed out on the bandsaw mostly then combination of spokeshave and rasp then sanding and more sanding. Not bad for a first go, I think I will be making more based on comments and would do things somewhat differently both in design and execution.


----------



## custard

n0legs":1urzz9oq said:


> flip top mobile base for the thicknesser.



Blimey, I wish I'd have had something like that when I worked in a single garage. Very nice idea!


----------



## Cordy

Buckeye; I like your sculptures  

=D> =D>


----------



## DTR

Love the fish, Buckeye!


----------



## SteveF

n0legs":84g8ugql said:


> Haven't posted anything for a while.
> So,,,, flip top mobile base for the thicknesser. Poor thing is a bit work weary, but it does deserve somewhere nice to sit.
> I did make the base big enough to fit a replacement when the time comes :wink:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, I took a load of this:-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Melted it in the oven, gave it a *big* squeeze in a mold, of sorts.
> Rough turned them into some of these:-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I made them into a pair of wheels for my table saw



what were the coloured beads?

Steve


----------



## n0legs

SteveF":2tz53np4 said:


> what were the coloured beads?
> 
> Steve



Cut up, painstakingly I add :lol: :-
Milk bottles, milk bottle tops, coke bottle tops, Tresemme bottles, anything that was hdpe grade plastic to be honest Steve. Quite fun to experiment, but I won't be repeating it anytime soon :lol:


----------



## Paddy Roxburgh

n0legs":3guipiwd said:


> SteveF":3guipiwd said:
> 
> 
> 
> what were the coloured beads?
> 
> Steve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut up, painstakingly I add :lol: :-
> Milk bottles, milk bottle tops, coke bottle tops, Tresemme bottles, anything that was hdpe grade plastic to be honest Steve. Quite fun to experiment, but I won't be repeating it anytime soon :lol:
Click to expand...



Nolegs, just want to say I love your wheels. I saw a youtube vid once of some american making a mallet from melted down milk cartons. If I remember rightly the vid was quite annoying (they kept trying to be funny) but the mallet itself was pretty cool. 
Paddy


----------



## DennisCA

That was shop time with Peter Brown. I think he's quite funny.


----------



## stuffimade

I made this walnut glasses case, using leather as the hinge. 
(i do have a build video if you are interested


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

In the middle of making a carving mallet using a Lignum Vitae lawn bowls ball, tried the drill press with no luck (and was a bit dodgy) so last night I made my first down and dirty / quick donut chuck for boring a hole into the ball...












Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ColeyS1

stuffimade":3hc7qg5w said:


> I made this walnut glasses case, using leather as the hinge.
> (i do have a build video if you are interested


Now that's one smart glasses case !

Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## thetyreman

stuffimade":1o0b90bc said:


> I made this walnut glasses case, using leather as the hinge.
> (i do have a build video if you are interested



I'd be interested, that looks amazing, my father needs one as he keeps damaging his, I've been thinking of making him a case for a while now.


----------



## Lons

Removeable out table for my saw.

Made this so I could stash it out of the way also can be relocated quickly and easily in several positions along the main table just using a couple of bolts with wingnuts. i used a couple of lengths of 6mm x 50mm aluminium again from my stock of "treasures"  
Can't remember where the rollers came from, aquired many years ago I cut them up to suit.

Bob


----------



## gwr

Very effective nice idea


----------



## monkeybiter

Sawdust=manglitter":14rtroqy said:


> In the middle of making a carving mallet using a Lignum Vitae lawn bowls ball, tried the drill press with no luck (and was a bit dodgy) so last night I made my first down and dirty / quick donut chuck for boring a hole into the ball...



Looks good, better than my method; I force the ball against the chuck with a revolving centre then grip the ball in the jaws by one of the barely there grooves. It holds it firmly enough to turn a tenon on the tailstock end so I can turn it around and hold it properly.


----------



## SteveF

monkeybiter":3ni86bta said:


> Sawdust=manglitter":3ni86bta said:
> 
> 
> 
> In the middle of making a carving mallet using a Lignum Vitae lawn bowls ball, tried the drill press with no luck (and was a bit dodgy) so last night I made my first down and dirty / quick donut chuck for boring a hole into the ball...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good, better than my method; I force the ball against the chuck with a revolving centre then grip the ball in the jaws by one of the barely there grooves. It holds it firmly enough to turn a tenon on the tailstock end so I can turn it around and hold it properly.
Click to expand...


I found that all mine have a hole below the ivory that is perfect for screw chuck

Steve


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

I originally tried holding it by hand and using the drill press, but the forstener bit I was using wasn't long enough so I had to do if from both ends and they didn't quite meet flush in the middle! But the donut chuck worked great, and it only took 10mins to make, just 2 bits of ply screwed to a faceplate with long enough bolts.

Anyways, it's 'turned' out quite nice. English boxwood handle. Going to be a shame to start using it!  It weighs 1.2kg, so will using it will be cheaper than going to the gym!


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Lons":3hlhlyd3 said:


> Removeable out table for my saw.
> 
> Made this so I could stash it out of the way also can be relocated quickly and easily in several positions along the main table just using a couple of bolts with wingnuts. i used a couple of lengths of 6mm x 50mm aluminium again from my stock of "treasures"
> Can't remember where the rollers came from, aquired many years ago I cut them up to suit.
> 
> Bob




That looks great! It reminds me that I need to sort myself out with a decent outfeed table, but it won't be anything as functional as yours!


----------



## John15

Your mallet looks fantastic Sawdust. Congratulations.

John


----------



## monkeybiter

Sawdust=manglitter":1ce3dhnd said:


> Going to be a shame to start using it!



I doubt if the wooden chisel handles will mark that lovely LV, I don't think mine's showing much sign of use. (hammer)


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Thanks both. And that's nice to hear Mike! I did christen the mallet yesterday, and there's no sign of any impact so far


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Bob (lons). Now that is a roller table =D> 
I bet materials just float over that.

:arrow: SDM. That's some mallet =D> 
Don't get your thumb in the way :lol:


----------



## NazNomad

Made this tacho for my lathe, just need to mount it now.

The digital control on mine only give a % of the max speed. It'll be nice to know what speed I'm actually turning stuff at.


----------



## n0legs

NazNomad":2de2obr0 said:


> Made this tacho for my lathe, just need to mount it now.
> 
> The digital control on mine only give a % of the max speed. It'll be nice to know what speed I'm actually turning stuff at.



From Bay of E by chance? 
Interesting, will be watching for outcome


----------



## NazNomad

Yep, £6.99 delivered from Hong Kong. Made a little plywood box for it, three solder joints, works perfectly.

I had to supply my own PSU - a 9v jobby left over from something.

I just need to epoxy a tiny neodymium magnet to the spindle and mount the sensor. 

Did a dry run and it's great.


----------



## TFrench

I've been looking at those too - I was thinking of attaching the magnets to the pulley of my graduate - as everything has to slide off the spindle to get it out I can't attach to that.


----------



## NazNomad

It'll work with quite a small magnet, anywhere you can mount it that spins will work as long as you can mount the sensor so the end of it is within a few mm of the magnet.


----------



## TFrench

ordered one - the inverter I'm using even has a low volt output that'll drive it. It'll look proper proffeshunul.


----------



## stuffimade

Thanks! here is the url ... let me know what you think  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCx_IYo ... lxvJ1uddcQ




thetyreman":3q54li8u said:


> stuffimade":3q54li8u said:
> 
> 
> 
> I made this walnut glasses case, using leather as the hinge.
> (i do have a build video if you are interested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd be interested, that looks amazing, my father needs one as he keeps damaging his, I've been thinking of making him a case for a while now.
Click to expand...


----------



## Nelsun

Spoons! All hand done from various lumps from the woodpile. The shame is there's nowhere in the kitchen to mount them. Oops.


----------



## custard

Nelsun":32y78wvl said:


> Spoons! All hand done from various lumps from the woodpile. The shame is there's nowhere in the kitchen to mount them. Oops.




Terrific work! You see a lot of spoons that are clunky and heavy, but these look really finely made. How many hours go into each one?


----------



## Blister

Nelsun":3resgu6s said:


> Spoons! All hand done from various lumps from the woodpile. The shame is there's nowhere in the kitchen to mount them. Oops.




Very nice , practical too


----------



## Nelsun

Aw shucks. Thanks Custard. These were my first attempts so I got quicker as I got a feel for things. Probably averages out at about 2-3 hours each from block to spoon. I avoided using anything electrical so stop cutting the front and side profiles (the handles are arched on the first 3) likely ate most of the time. I'll be looking to try some green wood once I pick up a hook knife... it's quite addictive!


----------



## El Barto

Nelsun":xkrc3wcn said:


> Aw shucks. Thanks Custard. These were my first attempts so I got quicker as I got a feel for things. Probably averages out at about 2-3 hours each from block to spoon. I avoided using anything electrical so stop cutting the front and side profiles (the handles are arched on the first 3) likely ate most of the time. I'll be looking to try some green wood once I pick up a hook knife... it's quite addictive!



These look great Nelsun! I'm interested in giving spoon carving a go - yours are def impressive for first attempts! Can you recommend some tools to get started with?


----------



## Nelsun

El Barto":hey48boc said:


> These look great Nelsun! I'm interested in giving spoon carving a go - yours are def impressive for first attempts! Can you recommend some tools to get started with?


Ta very much. There's countless YouTube videos but most of them incorporate using a bandsaw; which is fine if you've got one powerful enough... but I don't. I gave Paul Sellers video a few watches (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krAIHRCx9R0) and had at it after a few choice purchases.

I picked up a 1" #7 sweep gouge (there are no end of different sweeps (the curve) and widths and combinations of the two) so I had to just pick one and hope for the best. A gooseneck cabinet scraper and a 28 tooth/cm cabinet rasp all from Toolnut proved their worth. A crosscut saw, some carpy bench chisels, a flat spokeshave and assorted sandpaper handled the rest. A rounded spokeshave would likely have been handy for the necks so I may force myself to pick one up come pay day 

Oh, and a vice! Mine is flush with the top of the bench which proved useful - watch the linked video to get some handy tips on that.


----------



## El Barto

Nelsun":1w79q88x said:


> El Barto":1w79q88x said:
> 
> 
> 
> These look great Nelsun! I'm interested in giving spoon carving a go - yours are def impressive for first attempts! Can you recommend some tools to get started with?
> 
> 
> 
> Ta very much. There's countless YouTube videos but most of them incorporate using a bandsaw; which is fine if you've got one powerful enough... but I don't. I gave Paul Sellers video a few watches (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krAIHRCx9R0) and had at it after a few choice purchases.
> 
> I picked up a 1" #7 sweep gouge (there are no end of different sweeps (the curve) and widths and combinations of the two) so I had to just pick one and hope for the best. A gooseneck cabinet scraper and a 28 tooth/cm cabinet rasp all from Toolnut proved their worth. A crosscut saw, some carpy bench chisels, a flat spokeshave and assorted sandpaper handled the rest. A rounded spokeshave would likely have been handy for the necks so I may force myself to pick one up come pay day
> 
> Oh, and a vice! Mine is flush with the top of the bench which proved useful - watch the linked video to get some handy tips on that.
Click to expand...


Nice one I will check the video out, thank you. Have you thought about selling them? My mrs won £200 worth of stuff from these people a little while ago: http://www.grainandknot.com/

She was chuffed but man when it arrived the quality was so bad. Maybe that's because for the competition they sent out lower quality pieces, who knows, but they were awful. 

What I'm getting at is this person sells their wares for a lot of money and from what I've seen the standard of work is not very good.


----------



## Racers

Spoons are fun!, check out this video for green wood spoon carving

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KW2DN46lrqk

Then if you want to see how paul sellers does it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjK2yKZEPZQ

Pete


----------



## Nelsun

Thanks for the links Pete. I hadn't see the Ben Orford one before and it's a good 'un. It'll be a while before I can tool up (axe, knife, hook knife and yet more sharpening gear for starters) and try some green stuff. I have high hopes of finding some native wood up here from our one "forrest" which should provide some spalted goodies if I'm lucky. Then it'll be on to bowls!


----------



## Racers

Bowls are just bigger spoons!



7th February by Racers, on Flickr

Pete


----------



## Nelsun

That's a cracker... and pretty much exactly what I'd be aiming for. More tools; here I come


----------



## Racers

Thanks Nelsun, 

You don't need much in the way of tooling, a sow back gouge was the only tool for the bowl I needed to buy, but don't let that stop you!
A bowl adze speeds the process up!

Pete


----------



## wannabewoodworker

Some really great stuff in here! Can't wait to get my shop up and running!


----------



## brianhabby

stuffimade":2tpx2z3w said:


> Thanks! here is the url ... let me know what you think  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCx_IYo ... lxvJ1uddcQ


Hi Geoff, 

I think you want more flocking glue, you seem to have brushed it out too much which has left the ridges. Also, don't be afraid of putting plenty of the fibers in there and just leave it, any that are not needed will not stick and can be re-used. I use Suede Tex from Turners Retreat and the instructions suggest leaving it for at least 48 hours before tipping out the loose fibers which gives the glue time to cure properly. Who do you buy your flocking supplies from?

regards

Brian


----------



## stuffimade

Thanks for the tip Brianhabby! I got mine from Amazon - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B010TY4AZ2/ ... TE_3p_dp_1
Struggled to find a supplier so thanks for your advice on supplier also! 




brianhabby":d16ot8ah said:


> stuffimade":d16ot8ah said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! here is the url ... let me know what you think  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCx_IYo ... lxvJ1uddcQ
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Geoff,
> 
> I think you want more flocking glue, you seem to have brushed it out too much which has left the ridges. Also, don't be afraid of putting plenty of the fibers in there and just leave it, any that are not needed will not stick and can be re-used. I use Suede Tex from Turners Retreat and the instructions suggest leaving it for at least 48 hours before tipping out the loose fibers which gives the glue time to cure properly. Who do you buy your flocking supplies from?
> 
> regards
> 
> Brian
Click to expand...


----------



## stuffimade

Wow that is a great desk!

How long did that take?



Charlie Johnson":2psu2ybl said:


> richarnold":2psu2ybl said:
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I made on my own was a Computer desk in air dried olive ash from MAC timbers with bog oak handles and cock beading.
Click to expand...


----------



## Hot stuff

Nice desk. What is the wee drawer at the back of the foot well for?


----------



## thetyreman

I made this book shelf last week, the design is from paul sellers' book working with wood 1&2 this is going to be birthday present for my brother tomorrow, my very first piece of furniture, very happy with how it's turned out, for the finish I used de-waxed shellac as a sanding sealer, sanded it to 240 grit, then 3 layers of water based gloss varnish. I'm planning on making another one soon to deeper and wider dimensions for my self, hope you enjoy the pics! cheers


----------



## thetyreman

couple more pics:


----------



## monkeybiter

That looks like a good job, your brother should be very pleased. I think a hand made gift is about more than just the item. 
Got to say the yellow 'tint' in the piccys is horrible and doesn't do your work justice, there are lots of chaps on here who will be able to tell you what to adjust on your camera to enable you to show off your achievement to the max.


----------



## n0legs

Tyreman that looks great =D>


----------



## custard

Shame about the Trumpian sun tan but hopefully that's the photography not the furniture!

Seriously, excellent work and kudos for working your way through a structured programme of projects, that's the only way to acquire a comprehensive set of woodworking skills and it looks like you're well down that particular road.

=D>


----------



## NazNomad

custard":2297yyxi said:


> Shame about the Trumpian sun tan but hopefully that's the photography not the furniture!



I was thinking that the orange furniture matched the orange room perfectly. :-D


----------



## El Barto

Great job Tyreman. Bet you're chuffed with that.


----------



## thetyreman

agree about the yellow, here's some more natural looking photos in daylight, thanks guys for the compliments, hopefully now you can see the grain detail a bit more.


----------



## Nelsun

Very nice indeed thetyreman!


----------



## n0legs

I made an air filter for the shed. 
A couple of 4" extractor fans, a G4 pleated filter and some MDF.
In the trial period at the moment, but so far seems to work well.


----------



## monkeybiter

Much better, looks good. Is he chuffed?


----------



## thetyreman

monkeybiter":oi1yige2 said:


> Much better, looks good. Is he chuffed?



will find out later this evening lol he'd better be or I'm keeping it.


----------



## jlawford

thetyreman":4ahla7bh said:


> agree about the yellow, here's some more natural looking photos in daylight, thanks guys for the compliments, hopefully now you can see the grain detail a bit more.



Looks really great!


----------



## thetyreman

jlawford":2f3yihoi said:


> thetyreman":2f3yihoi said:
> 
> 
> 
> agree about the yellow, here's some more natural looking photos in daylight, thanks guys for the compliments, hopefully now you can see the grain detail a bit more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks really great!
Click to expand...


cheers, my bro loved it so I'm happy


----------



## NazNomad

Made this house-warming present for a friend of mine... It'll always be wine o'clock at her house now. :-D






*original idea stolen from t'interwebs*


----------



## Cordy

=D> Well cool is that clock Naz


----------



## Woodchips2

Well done Naz =D> =D> 

I like the way the wine glasses at the bottom don't spill any of the precious liquid  

Regards Keith


----------



## custard

NazNomad":ylu2dret said:


> Made this house-warming present for a friend of mine... It'll always be wine o'clock at her house now. :-D



Very clever, very funny, and very very well made (cutting out twelve wine glasses so precisely must take real skill).


=D>


----------



## MattRoberts

NazNomad":31hegz6p said:


> Made this house-warming present for a friend of mine... It'll always be wine o'clock at her house now. :-D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *original idea stolen from t'interwebs*


That looks ace Naz, nice one!

Did you just use a scroll saw, or another technique?


----------



## NazNomad

All scroll saw


----------



## MattRoberts

Very impressive to get all of the shapes so uniform. I guess every hour is wine o'clock!


----------



## El Barto

NazNomad":8n4qblyu said:


> Made this house-warming present for a friend of mine... It'll always be wine o'clock at her house now. :-D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *original idea stolen from t'interwebs*



Ha ha excellent. I can think of a few people who'd like one of them...


----------



## NazNomad

I found an excellent eBay seller who will, if they aren't listed, mix & match spindle length and hand sizes to suit your clock.

Anyone that wants it, these are the plans I drew up ... 











Printed on A4, makes a 13'' diameter clock (almost).


----------



## Bm101

Add some purpleheart slices as wine Naz.


----------



## Bm101

n0legs":28x45hxk said:


> I made an air filter for the shed.
> A couple of 4" extractor fans, a G4 pleated filter and some MDF.
> In the trial period at the moment, but so far seems to work well.



Like this mate. =D> Keep us updated on performance. I've wondered before about knocking something like this together as a slightly more expensive alternative to my other dust dispersal technique of keeping the shed door open.


----------



## n0legs

Finished this little table, not bad seeing as I started it in 2015 :roll: 
Made of hemlock, douglas fir and an unknown hardwood. All done with hand tools for a change, well except for the sanding :lol: 
I call it the "Leftovers table".


----------



## shuggy

NazNomad":2ka00wl7 said:


> Made this house-warming present for a friend of mine... It'll always be wine o'clock at her house now. :-D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *original idea stolen from t'interwebs*



Love this NazNomad =D> =D>


----------



## NazNomad

Thanks. She moved in today so now I have to hope it doesn't get mashed in the post.


----------



## Doris

My second baby mobile. I turned some hot air balloons on my lathe out of old rolling pins I think.


----------



## El Barto

Doris":3eok0hji said:


> My second baby mobile. I turned some hot air balloons on my lathe out of old rolling pins I think.



Excellent! Really nice.


----------



## Cordy

Nice table Nolegs; can we see more of the top please :lol:


----------



## monkeybiter

The quality of design and finish looks really good there Doris.


----------



## n0legs

Cordy":9afxgohn said:


> Nice table Nolegs; can we see more of the top please :lol:



Thanks Cordy. 
Here's a pic as requested


----------



## n0legs

Doris":1puwqoh2 said:


> My second baby mobile. I turned some hot air balloons on my lathe out of old rolling pins I think.




=D> 
Absolutely brilliant Doris


----------



## MattRoberts

Lovely table nolegs, and what a fantastic mobile Doris! Very creative!


----------



## Doris

Thanks everyone for the nice comments


----------



## AntCity

A BIT OF UPCYCLING


----------



## n0legs

Bm101":2zoeigpf said:


> n0legs":2zoeigpf said:
> 
> 
> 
> Like this mate. =D> Keep us updated on performance. I've wondered before about knocking something like this together as a slightly more expensive alternative to my other dust dispersal technique of keeping the shed door open.
Click to expand...



I checked the filter today, compared to an unused filter it seems to have trapped a lot of dust. About 5 weeks since installing


----------



## will1983

Where did you get your filters from No Legs?
I'm thinking of making a cabinet to house a dust extractor with one of those in the door to do a final polish to the air as it leaves the cabinet.


----------



## thetyreman

finally finished a giant sized bookshelf, it measures 46 5/8 " high and 45 1/2" wide with 11" deep shelves, lots of laminating involved, lots of cursing during glue up and it took me about 2-3 weeks, I also needed some new long clamps for this beast, there's a couple of mistakes, but I will correct this for the next time I make one, mostly cutting a bit too much off one of the dado's at the front, and I tried my hand at butterfly keys for the first time after noticing a pretty big crack, using some Honduran mahogany I got from a turning blank, now I just have to decide on a finish and it's done. I've already used de-waxed shellac as a sanding sealer sanded to 240 grit, I could go with pure tung oil, shellac and wax or varnish, paint, 

For my next project I'm going to make something a lot smaller  learnt a lot from doing this and it's something I genuinely need. The bottom shelf/space is designed to fit DVD's and blu-rays and the other shelves are for my books, finally they can all be in one place.


----------



## MarkDennehy

I like the use of the keys there; they're probably not needed structurally but they turn a defect into a point of interest rather nicely but because the wood colours aren't an enormous contrast, they don't draw the eye to it unnecessarily. Nice balancing act, that.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

:idea: It would be an interesting project to make a pair of matching templets, one to cut the keys, one to cut the recesses ... :?


----------



## monkeybiter

phil.p":1vy40u1t said:


> :idea: It would be an interesting project to make a pair of matching templets, one to cut the keys, one to cut the recesses ... :?



Norm did this using one template and two different guide bushes to give the different sizes. There is an acrylic template available [Rockler?] from the U.S. of T., the prices are amusing for a mass produced piece of plastic. Perhaps you have identified a niche [albeit limited].

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o....TRS0&_nkw=router+Template+butterfly&_sacat=0


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I must admit as I thought it, I thought I would be surprised if it hadn't already been done. I think maybe If I were to attempt it I would look to do a more irregular shape.


----------



## Mr T

I don't take on many commisions nowadays, too busy teaching, but I do some work for long standing customers. One is a puzzle maker who i make bioxes for. One of the many other strings to his bow is professional bridge teacher. He asked me to make this bidding board for a project he has teaching bridge to children. The box is walnut, the maple grid is for placing bids (in bridge you bid to say how many tricks you will win, bidding is also a coded way of telling your partner what you have in your hand) when the bidding is complete the grid is covered with boards lined with green baize. The reverse of the board is decorated with the four suites inlayed in black and red. The board folds up and the other boards fit inside.

The corners are mitred and reinforced with 4mm dominos. The 10mm maple grid is mitred and fitted in 3mm deep grooves in the board. The hinges are Brusso. I have to say that even thoiught they are expensive they do save a lot of fitting time. An 8mm bit on the router table and they are fitted in about half an hour.

Whilst working on this last week I decided to make a couple of boxes for the children of Palistinian friends living on the occupied west bank. The box is yew with a masur birch veneered lid inlaid with the Palistinian flag. To save hinging I made it with a tilting lid. The corners were just mitred then reinforced with biscuits.


----------



## n0legs

Some lovely work there Mr T =D>


----------



## n0legs

will1983":29lpiosj said:


> Where did you get your filters from No Legs?
> I'm thinking of making a cabinet to house a dust extractor with one of those in the door to do a final polish to the air as it leaves the cabinet.




Sorry Will, I forgot to answer you earlier.
I bought them from a trader on eBay. Here's the link:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G4-Pleated-Pa ... jBL9uurBNg


----------



## will1983

n0legs":mzur8ygc said:


> will1983":mzur8ygc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get your filters from No Legs?
> I'm thinking of making a cabinet to house a dust extractor with one of those in the door to do a final polish to the air as it leaves the cabinet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Will, I forgot to answer you earlier.
> I bought them from a trader on eBay. Here's the link:-
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G4-Pleated-Pa ... jBL9uurBNg
Click to expand...



Cheers No Legs!


----------



## MarkDennehy

Made a wristrest for an officemate after a challenge. 30 minutes work from a rough-sawn offcut with hand tools (would have been less time but I was foostering around with my new Knew Concepts fretsaw).






Total cost, €2 for wood and felt (there's some underneath so it doesn't slide on the office tabletop) and glue and finishes (roughly). Utterly unremarkable and I wouldn't remark on it except for this bit:

The challenge was that I couldn't make it quickly and cheaply, because he was looking at this one on Massdrop






Same size exactly, I think that's walnut as well, but they wanted *$95* for it. 
(I nearly choked on my coffee when he showed me the pricetag). 

I mean... once you joint and plane the rough-sawn timber, that's two tablesaw cuts, two mitre saw cuts and a minute on a router table for each one. It'd cost them less than it cost me. What the hell is the profit margin on these things? :shock:


----------



## DTR

Some brackets for a towel rail


----------



## DTR

thetyreman":1zm1w71g said:


> finally finished a giant sized bookshelf......





Mr T":1zm1w71g said:


> I don't take on many commisions nowadays, too busy teaching, but I do some work for long standing customers.......



Great stuff! =D>


----------



## thetyreman

have been making an outdoor bench using hounds tooth dovetails using the green coloured 'treated' timber, it still needs another couple of layers of tung oil yet before it's complete.


----------



## Doris

Some wooden flowers I've turned and carved for the mother in law for mother's day.


----------



## monkeybiter

thetyreman":25rk4cp8 said:


> have been making an outdoor bench using hounds tooth dovetails using the green coloured 'treated' timber, it still needs another couple of layers of tung oil yet before it's complete.



Fancy looking dovetails thetyreman, but I think you ought to put some sort of bracing under the corners or a board across from leg to leg oriented vertically to prevent racking,
it would be a shame after going to so much effort to see your creation fold up and do someone an injury.


----------



## woodbrains

Hello,

Very nice boxes, Chris, well done!

Mike.


----------



## custard

DTR":1g3xyfb3 said:


> Some brackets for a towel rail



You've done well there Dave. I know how difficult it is to have superficially simple looking components, but actually produce them with real precision and accuracy. It's far from easy to deliver really excellent work like that!

=D>


----------



## custard

thetyreman":1idy3fxb said:


> finally finished a giant sized bookshelf...learnt a lot from doing this and it's something I genuinely need.



You're doing brilliantly Tyre Man, working through a structured series of projects with real discipline and commitment. I really admire the way you don't allow yourself to get distracted by all the woodworking trivia that prevents progress. You just keep beavering away, tucking more and more woodworking skills under your belt.

=D>


----------



## Dan j

n0legs":3kymrws9 said:


> Finished this little table, not bad seeing as I started it in 2015 :roll:
> Made of hemlock, douglas fir and an unknown hardwood. All done with hand tools for a change, well except for the sanding :lol:
> I call it the "Leftovers table".




Looks good. Like the idea of a "leftovers" project.


----------



## SkinnyB

Finished the base for a glass cake display unit today. Made of 2 pieces of oak which were book matched and joined in the middle.


----------



## cowfoot

Finished a bedside table, first thing I've made that I designed myself.
Ash, Elm & painted ply.





Stuff that I learned -
Some joints are easier to cut by hand rather than insisting on using a Domino.
A shooting board is my new favourite item in the workshop...
Closely followed by a card scraper.
I need to check and double check for square during glue up - might make fitting drawers easier!

Anyway, I enjoyed it. Can't wait to start the next one and iron out those mistakes.


----------



## DiscoStu

I like that a lot although not keen on the blue panel?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cowfoot

I was hoping the blue panel would make it look more modern...other colours are available (as long as it's Air Force Blue, as that's all I had left over from my last decorating job!).
That aside, can anyone tell me the benefits of filling the grain before finishing?


----------



## Simo

My latest bass build.. 33'' scale, 5 string fretless (tuned E-C), with spalted Hornbeam top.


----------



## thetyreman

Simo":uu8ehcz3 said:


> My latest bass build.. 33'' scale, 5 string fretless (tuned E-C), with spalted Hornbeam top.



very nice indeed, I like the finish on that =D>


----------



## MattRoberts

cowfoot":3iwb42fw said:


> I was hoping the blue panel would make it look more modern...other colours are available (as long as it's Air Force Blue, as that's all I had left over from my last decorating job!).
> That aside, can anyone tell me the benefits of filling the grain before finishing?


Filling the grain can provide a more even finish across the surface, as it will be less porous. Tends to have the biggest effect when using stains on particularly porous wood

Lovely side table, though I agree the blue doesn't quite fit. Could you sand it back for a bit of a distressed look?


----------



## whiskywill

Simo":35w5vcfb said:


> My latest bass build.. 33'' scale, 5 string fretless (tuned E-C), with spalted Hornbeam top.




Where are the pickups?


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Simo 8) 
Gorgeous =D>


----------



## Simo

whiskywill":3hn3mn3e said:


> Where are the pickups?



There are no magnetic pickups.. the bridge saddles have individual piezo transducers fitted. They give a more acoustic-like tone compared to a magnetic pickup, great for fretless bass


----------



## DiscoStu

Not quite finished but I've made this:











It's for a stage show. He will have a smoke machine inside him when he's finished and possibly some red led strips for his eyes.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Bit elaborate for a bench hook, surely?


----------



## DiscoStu

Lol - especially as it's not at 90 degrees the side you can't see is on an angle. When it's finished that bit will have buttons on it as it's meant to be a control panel. Built a stage to go on the stage today (8ft deep x 40ft) long with retractable steps. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bugbear

This was made this morning, in the garden, from the firewood and kindling pile.

My SO has a bad knee, and can't kneel. She wanted to weed in the garden. So a low stool was requested.

We messed around a bit with various logs (with optional plank spacers) to find the correct height.

I then split a (telegraph pole, creosote) log of the right height to make the two verticals, and slapped a plank across
the top (the non visible side has paint, plaster, and wood filler mixing areas on it). 6 nails later, a useful stool
emerged.






It's not great woodwork, but SO is happy!

BugBear


----------



## MarkDennehy

You fool! Now she knows that you can make useful stuff in only a few minutes without using an entire shed of tools!


----------



## bugbear

MarkDennehy":3v0u27fg said:


> You fool! Now she knows that you can make useful stuff in only a few minutes without using an entire shed of tools!



Oops.    

BugBear


----------



## memzey

Spice rack for Mrs. memzey in spalted white oak and American black walnut:








And here it is in situ:



The finish on the oak is Osmo Polyx Matt clear and the finish on the ABW is three coats of garnet shellac and Liberon antique mahogany wax. Sorry about the dodgy pictures my iPhone camera lense has a crack in it!


----------



## Cordy

Very nice Memzey !


----------



## Nelsun

Very nice indeed. Love the spalted oak!


----------



## woodenstx

A mess, but its my first jolly into using real wood :lol:
Skateboard, because one is never too old to play.

Some sort of red softwood, cant recallits name (redwood for the first cuning person), candian maple and some american walnut in the middle.





I sharpened the plane up last week but havent used in anger, so did on this




ITs the little things in life that make one smile, getting a neapolitan ice cream shaving is one of them 
Will continue flattening it down over the next few evenings/weekends (not much free time at the moment) and then shape into a cruiser/longboard and add the wheels and trucks once imported as I want the same wheels as I had on my 70's board


----------



## technium

YAY I can finally post up my first item made.

Its a Hammer coat hook made from cheap £2 hammers from fleabay and some old pine from a tv unit (hence the extra holes). I also had a play with beeswax so gave it a couple of coats of that and thought it came out pretty well.


----------



## MrTeroo

woodenstuart":1t6c125k said:


> A mess, but its my first jolly into using real wood :lol:
> Skateboard, because one is never too old to play.
> 
> Some sort of red softwood, cant recallits name (redwood for the first cuning person), candian maple and some american walnut in the middle.




Nice.

There is a company called Forge Creative making similar ones at the moment

http://forgecreative.co/objects/cruise


----------



## iNewbie

woodenstuart":j5lu88kx said:


> I want the same wheels as I had on my 70's board



Get some new bearings in 'em though, eh?  

Ahh, some OJ Superjuice and some Lazer trucks. Those were the days - not sure my knee could take it these days...


----------



## woodenstx

iNewbie":289ff7ha said:


> woodenstuart":289ff7ha said:
> 
> 
> 
> I want the same wheels as I had on my 70's board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get some new bearings in 'em though, eh?
> 
> Ahh, some OJ Superjuice and some Lazer trucks. Those were the days - not sure my knee could take it these days...
Click to expand...


Kyrptonics have remade their wheels from the good ole days (for ref, my 70's board is older than me as I'm 80's stock), so thats a start, and yes new bearings as the current ones are solid


----------



## whiskywill

memzey":21choosi said:


>



Somebody has been to Turkey.


----------



## memzey

Northern Cyprus but close enough I suppose! Thank you to everyone for the kind words. Mrs. memzey is also quite pleased and may have a few more "in doors" commissions for me over the coming months. This is a big step forward after the abhorrent shelf episode of a year or so ago but the less said about that the better....


----------



## ScaredyCat

memzey":933p8048 said:


> Northern Cyprus but close enough I suppose! Thank you to everyone for the kind words. Mrs. memzey is also quite pleased and may have a few more "in doors" commissions for me over the coming months. This is a big step forward after the abhorrent shelf episode of a year or so ago but the less said about that the better....




Nice. Did you do any build pictures? I'm new to all this so seeing how others have done things is always helpful.


----------



## memzey

Hi SC. 

Sorry no build pictures as I was working to a deadline- Mrs. m must not be disappointed! The joinery is a combination of rebates, housings and pocket screws - not up to the standards of many on here but ambitious enough for me at this stage of my journey!


----------



## ScaredyCat

Well, it looks great to me


----------



## memzey

Thanks SC!


----------



## rafezetter

Nelsun":jdqzrak8 said:


> Very nice indeed. Love the spalted oak!



I have to agree, spalted oak has more character than normal oak.

can all woods species get spalting?


----------



## thetyreman

made my second dovetail box, I saved the best bits of clear pine (redwood) for this one.

The only problem now is the lid has bloody cupped at the front, creating a gap that wasn't there originally, I also went the extra mile and polished the brass hinges this time, makes a huge difference. Do you think it's worth planing the inside of the lid to flatten it?


----------



## monkeybiter

Nice box thetyreman, those dovetails look excellent! And I like [perhaps in the minority] that you haven't left knife marks where you marked out.
Re. the lid, if it was me, I'd leave it for a week or two until the lid stops moving before you take it off and re-flatten it.


----------



## Ttrees

Nice box tireman 
Did you decide about the grain orientation that way for aesthetics ?
I would never choose to do that, as those growth rings always want to flatten out,
And two points of contact is always more structurally sound than a single see saw effect 


I think it's time you got some nice wood to match your skills.
I don't think that lid will ever stop moving


----------



## Doris

This tiny trinket box was made out of the tiny bit I had as an offcut. I had a circluar brass hinge and a magnifying glass which fitted very nicely as a lid. I painted a bluebird design on the lid.

Btw if anyone has or knows where I can get anymore of these hinges please let me know. These came with my lathe and am keen to get a few more.


----------



## thetyreman

Ttrees":ourw8mud said:


> Nice box tireman
> Did you decide about the grain orientation that way for aesthetics ?
> I would never choose to do that, as those growth rings always want to flatten out,
> And two points of contact is always more structurally sound than a single see saw effect
> 
> 
> I think it's time you got some nice wood to match your skills.
> I don't think that lid will ever stop moving



yes I chose it for aesthetics.

what do you mean by two points of contact? can you explain, sorry I don't quite understand that part.


----------



## Ttrees

thetyreman":126fai2f said:


> yes I chose it for aesthetics.
> 
> what do you mean by two points of contact? can you explain, sorry I don't quite understand that part.


I meant that your lid is see sawing, Say if you made a big box and had the same effect...it might strain your hinges if
you slammed the lid closed ....see-saw effect if you will .
The end grain lines always tells the future movement of the timber ...these end grain lines will always want to flatten out,
changing that sad face end grain shape on your lid to a sort of flatter horizontal shape, thus cupping your lid .
It is generally easier to deal with the wood cupping side down as their is two points of contact, and you can 
have less faffing about than dealing with something that will see-saw with just one point of contact in the middle.
Tom


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: TTM. Good looking box, lovely joints =D> 
:arrow: Doris. Gorgeous =D>


----------



## MarkDennehy

It's a lovely box. Could always take the lid off it and put some breadboard ends on it to try to keep it from cupping further...


----------



## woodbrains

Hello,

Tyreman, joinery grade redwood is never going to be dry enough to make things like this from when first bought. You must prepare everything slightly oversize and over thickness, sticker everything in an indoor environment (not the shed!) and leave until there is no trace of movement. It might take a month for joinery stuff, it is not seasoned as well as furniture grade stuff. Reduce to final dimensions and then make your box. It might sound like a faff, but this is what high quality makers always do, there is no other way to be sure problems don't happen. If you don't, it is a lottery otherwise. And to be honest, an unrestrained solid top like this should always be made from quarter sawn stuff. It is hard to find quartered stock in batches of joinery grade redwood, but cupping will always happen with flatsawn stock to some degree. The degree of cupping is in effect doubled as well, when hinged on one side; all the movement appears at the front. Your work is worth the extra effort, I'm sure you'll agree; there is nothing worse than spending time on a job, to have something as simple as a board cupping, to upset you. But don't think these things are beyond control; they aren't, but you need to do what is necessary. Incidentally, that box might just be narrow enough to fix a solid bottom on, but that should be quartered too, and bone dry. Otherwise it might start to crack when it shrinks a bit. Definitely don't go wider for solid bottoms, either. 

Mike.


----------



## John15

Nice box TM and definitely worth flattening the top. Hopefully nothing else moves.

John


----------



## thetyreman

finished a pair of stools today, been working on them for a week or two:


----------



## DTR

Lovely stools, Tyreman =D>

I like your box too. Like monkeybiter says, the lid should be stable enough after a week or two indoors to flatten. I've made similar sized dovetail boxes with a solid bottom; at this scale there isn't much cross-grain movement to worry about.


----------



## nev

Lewis Hamilton (apparently)







post1138757.html#p1138757


----------



## DTR

Awesome! =D>


----------



## MrDavidRoberts

made some shed doors yesterday
as always it took the same amount of time to actually make them and make a new frame as it was to oil them :twisted:


----------



## Cordy

Very nice David !


----------



## El Barto

thetyreman":13fym567 said:


> finished a pair of stools today, been working on them for a week or two:



Haven't been on here for ages. Those look brilliant! Did you get the idea from one of Lost Art Press's books? Really nice =D>


----------



## thetyreman

El Barto":15y1ly2c said:


> thetyreman":15y1ly2c said:
> 
> 
> 
> finished a pair of stools today, been working on them for a week or two:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't been on here for ages. Those look brilliant! Did you get the idea from one of Lost Art Press's books? Really nice =D>
Click to expand...


thanks, no actually, I drew it out first, and based it on paul sellers milk stool from his working with wood book, what's the book from lost art press? I may have to get it one day


----------



## El Barto

thetyreman":32k8rb9e said:


> El Barto":32k8rb9e said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thetyreman":32k8rb9e said:
> 
> 
> 
> finished a pair of stools today, been working on them for a week or two:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't been on here for ages. Those look brilliant! Did you get the idea from one of Lost Art Press's books? Really nice =D>
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> thanks, no actually, I drew it out first, and based it on paul sellers milk stool from his working with wood book, what's the book from lost art press? I may have to get it one day
Click to expand...


The Anarchist's Design Book is the one I was thinking of. It features some really nice stuff, simple in both design and build.

https://www.classichandtools.com/acatal ... Press.html


----------



## DTR

A rip off of Benchcrafted's Hi-Vise [sic]


----------



## MarkDennehy

Damn DTR, that's some neat work. 
I'd be thinking of copying it if I didn't know you'd done the metalwork yourself


----------



## thetyreman

done my first table, it's far from perfect, but it's not bad either, there are a few gaps where the aprons meet the top, although very happy with the mitred mortice and tenon joints.

I'm planning on making another one soon. It's finished with pure tung oil, 3 layers of the stuff.

I chiseled my name and date on the underside so people know it's hand made plus for my own satisfaction. 
here's some pics for you


----------



## DTR

Elegant =D>


----------



## NazNomad

Lovely table. I'd only ever be confident making a 3-legged one so it wouldn't wobble. :-D


----------



## John15

I like the curved aprons. Nice looking table.

John


----------



## brianhabby

Just finished this chest of drawers for the Men's Shed. I had some help assembling the actual drawers from another member.




There are 110 drawers in total for storing screws, nails and other bits & pieces. The drawers are about 12" deep but the unit is flush since it is slotted into an old window recess. I made the unit from MDF at home and then took it to the Shed and It was a nice fit with only about an eighth of an inch to spare, so pleased with that. The fronts of the drawers are made from a variety of scraps of pine with an assortment of knobs as can be seen, just needs a few more knobs and some finish and it should see years of use.
I'm really chuffed with the way it turned out, much better than I anticipated when I started the project several months ago.
The unit is just under four foot square.
Hope you like it.

regards

Brian


----------



## Bm101

Like that a lot Brian. Not sure why I like tiny drawers so much. :| Childhood memories of my Taid's (Grandad's) shed? General intrigue? Ohhh whats in this one? Either way. Sure that will last your club for years. Nice work.


----------



## DTR

That's really nice, Brianhabby =D>


----------



## Penny

A rustic and tough coat hanger for workshop or home; made from spanners that I heated and reshaped, then mounted on a piece of live edge walnut. A lot tougher to create than you might imagine. Five drill bits snapped and four others blunted drilling the screw holes! Spanners are made of hard metal!


----------



## Buckeye

Elm kitchen shelves. The wall was hollow core so a bit of a pain but managed to find the joists to get the metal rod into. I said I wouldn't be keen to do them without the brackets at the bottom.... they originally wanted them all floating. I am learning as I go but I lost money in this with regard to time which even as a hobby my time is too precious for but hopefully learn a lesson.
















Cherry and ash bench for our kitchen. The mitres could have been a bit tigher on the legs.... need to learn to make a mitre shooting board I think. Also I would set the legs under the top a fraction next time but overall pleased with this especially first time doing bow-ties,splines and using epoxy (poundland £1 stuff which is ok). There was a big ugly knot where the large bow-tie is. Cherry was about £25 and the ash about £20 plus glue/finish etc so probably have maybe £60 of material into it.


----------



## marcros

love the bench.


----------



## Racers

+1 on the bench.

Pete


----------



## Nelsun

+2. A cracker that's right up my street!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## Buckeye

Thanks for the comments. The top was a challenge as it is wider than my planer/thicknesser so was flattened with a mixture of portable planer, jack plane and sander.


----------



## thetyreman

brian that chest of drawers is really nice, it's good enough to be on display in a shop, you should be proud of that! 

Bench is also lovely, with nice choices of wood, and well executed


----------



## SammyQ

Buckeye? them shelves is quare stuff. Like them! Thon bench is stonkin' elegant too.

Sam


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Last thing i completed was this dovetail guide out of boxwood. Angled for 1:8 or 7.1 degrees. Not pretty, but it does the job














Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NazNomad

Finally finished this damn thing... 99%oak, 1% glue.


----------



## ColeyS1

NazNomad":2g8e6kcr said:


> Finally finished this damn thing... 99%oak, 1% glue.


Oh my word !!! I want I want I want. That's awesome- I know several people who would love that.


----------



## MarkDennehy

But do you buy it or lease the software?


----------



## Cordy

First Class Naz =D> =P~ 

What size is it ?


----------



## NazNomad

11'' x 8½'' ish


----------



## Bm101

Dear God, the scale in that picture! The bush and the gravel....I thought you had made a MASSIVE tractor! Had to keep looking at it.
Logical part of brain 'Naaaaahh, can't be... it makes no sense'
Monkey part of brain 'F*** me! Naz made a lifesize tractor out of OAK! Brillliaaaaannnnt!!!!'


----------



## DTR

Nice tractor 8)


----------



## Wychall

Hi folks. I am a new young woodworker of 62yrs that has just joined the forum. If this post goes to plan I will share a pic of my last (and first) project. If you can see it it is a new bunk bed made in pine for the grandkids. A poor picture as it is a large bed in a small room, and my phone camera struggled to fit things in. 
The next project better be a smaller one as I almost burned myself out on this one.

Edit.... oops, no photo. Any clues on how I upload one?


----------



## Ttrees

Welcome to the forum Wychall
You need to have three posts under your belt to be able to post piccys 
Tom


----------



## Wychall

Thanks for the reply Tom. I've just found the rules for piccies so am now trying to reduce the size for an upload (unless I reach the three posts first )


----------



## Wychall

Second attempt at uploading a pic... 






Hope this one works.


----------



## JSW

First project?? i think you can give yourself a pat on the back for that one, very well designed and nicely executed, kudos, and welcome to the forums.


----------



## Wychall

Thanks for that. My previous attempt at woodwork was a failed GCE exam some 45 years ago.....


----------



## thetyreman

just finished my first dovetail box with a sliding lid (although my third actual box) , made from spruce for the sides and lid, with redwood for the base, finished with one layer of dewaxed shellac for sanding sealer, sanded to 240, then a layer of clear briwax.


----------



## monkeybiter

That's a nice box Mr Tyreman, one of your best IMHO.


----------



## twodoctors

Wychall":359huauc said:


> Thanks for that. My previous attempt at woodwork was a failed GCE exam some 45 years ago.....



Wow! 

I got an A for my GCSE Craft Design and Technology (aka woodwork) 25 years ago. 

Started woodworking again 2 months-ish ago. I still can't make jack s h i t. Hahaha!

Adrian


----------



## DTR

Wychall":31bjyrug said:


> Second attempt at uploading a pic...
> 
> Hope this one works.



Love the steps, I've never seen stairs on a bunk bed before! =D>



thetyreman":31bjyrug said:


> just finished my first dovetail box with a sliding lid.



Very nice =D>


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Naz, the tractor's brilliant =D> 
:arrow: Wychall, that's one cool bed =D> 
:arrow: TTM, smart box =D>


----------



## Gus900

Hi everyone, long term lurker, first time poster, newbie woodworker. I built this shoe rack after reading lots of posts from regulars so thanks to you all. It's ash, bought rough sawn from Clarks Wood in Bristol, with a couple of bits of laburnum rescued from my sister's log pile. Construction is with loose tenons (you can see the router jig I made in the background) finished with a coat of Osmo Gold, Aquacoat grain filer and then Osmo clear satin. Apologies for the dodgy shoe collection, we aren't very posh.
Gus


----------



## thetyreman

yet another table finished, painted white then shellac and wax, I also went for a slightly 'shabby chic' look, something that I thought I'd never do, but I haven't gone overboard and got a blowtorch/flamethrower out, it's a mildly distressed look, hope you all like it.


----------



## monkeybiter

I hate to say this, as you've mentioned 'shabby chite', but I like that, not particularly distressed and a nice elegant design.


----------



## DTR

I like that =D>


----------



## DuncanDesigns

Made this for holding the bins in the kitchen. Left side for general waste, right side for recyclables.


----------



## thetyreman

made myself a little plectrum tray, it's a lot more difficult cutting small dovetails, but it was a good challenge.


----------



## ColeyS1

DuncanDesigns":3ejdq9qq said:


> Made this for holding the bins in the kitchen. Left side for general waste, right side for recyclables.


That looks really smart ! What colour/type paint is it please ? I really like it.
Coley


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Gus900. Looks great mate =D> 
:arrow: TTM. Will you slow down, you're making the rest of us look bad :wink: :lol: Cool table =D> 
:arrow: DuncanDesigns. That's gorgeous mate, right up my street =D>


----------



## DuncanDesigns

ColeyS1":35rpptv0 said:


> DuncanDesigns":35rpptv0 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Made this for holding the bins in the kitchen. Left side for general waste, right side for recyclables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks really smart ! What colour/type paint is it please ? I really like it.
> Coley
Click to expand...


The paint is Sadolin Superdec Satin. Its an outdoor paint but contains a primer, colour and sealant all in one so saves money and time. I have 3 coats on this piece and to me it turned out perfect. I used a microfibre roller to give a smooth finish. It was mixed to my own preference in the shop. 

Here's another couple of pictures which maybe shows it a bit better -


----------



## nev

lambretta-scooter-t105793.html


----------



## chwjwood

heres my barrow


----------



## chwjwood

see attachment


----------



## yetloh

nev":lwmktkkt said:


> http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/lambretta-scooter-t105793.html



Great work Nev, it captures the essence perfectly. How big is it?

Jim


----------



## nev

yetloh":2s1sy03v said:


> nev":2s1sy03v said:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/lambretta-scooter-t105793.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great work Nev, it captures the essence perfectly. How big is it?
> 
> Jim
Click to expand...



Cheers.

Its about 175mm end to end, 100mm tall, 42mm dia. wheels.


----------



## Rockford

chwjwood":2z0g3sw3 said:


> heres my barrow



Very nice.

I've always fancied having a go at one of these. Will you use it for its original purpose or as a planter?

Best wishes

Rockford


----------



## n0legs

Nev that's a cool scooter, Modfather cool 8) =D>


----------



## thetyreman

made a little dovetail caddy for holding sandpaper from scraps of american white oak and pine, think I'm going to make a few more of these, it was a good practice piece.


----------



## devonwoody

Nice work with that dovetail caddy. putting the base on the bottom solves some problems as well.


----------



## Stoatally

First complete bowl. From an offcut of worktop given to me by a neighbour. Think it's oak.

*the actual first went a bit thin and is now in the kindling box.


----------



## marcros

thetyreman":54lxix91 said:


> made a little dovetail caddy for holding sandpaper from scraps of american white oak and pine, think I'm going to make a few more of these, it was a good practice piece.



I like that as an item. I also like the fact that to buy something similar would be far too expensive to justify for the use that you have assigned it, but because it stands you at a few offcuts and a bit of time which you don't charge yourself for, it is a perfectly acceptable use to you!

Bravo.


----------



## Droogs

@thetyreman, very nice, would be an excellent postit note caddy too


----------



## marcros

Today I made a pen for a retiring colleague. A nice piece of tiger oak. I tried an arty photograph, albeit on my phone. It doesn't really bring the stripes out particularly well, and the other pic was out of focus!


----------



## Bm101

Bit of a weird one. Last week we took the kids to the Herts County show. Horses an' that. Bumbled past a smiths stall. He had some big door stops for sale. Lump of wood, iron ring in the top. Mrs goes all weak kneed. They are fifty notes each. I steer her clear. Are ya mad? Fifty quid for that?! 
So. It's someones birthday Monday. (I got her some earrings too. I ain't that tight).
Worlds most enthusiastic Yew doorstop with brass handle. (Handle's a bit wonkey, balls). Planed nice and square from a rough blank. It's ok. An exercise in planing properly square gone right. Please don't laugh or cringe Chris P.  
And my lad is right into Harry Potter and all that malarkey. Weird day in the shed.


----------



## technium

I decided to try and make one of those sandpits for my granddaughter. Ive seen plans for double seated versions but ended up modifying it to make single seat version.











A couple of 4x2s and some pallet wood for the top, turned out ok


----------



## marcros

technium":1qecaw5z said:


> I decided to try and make one of those sandpits for my granddaughter. Ive seen plans for double seated versions but ended up modifying it to make single seat version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of 4x2s and some pallet wood for the top, turned out ok



have you used play sand in it? If not, be careful, because normal sand can stain clothing.

nice job on the build. I am sure that she will have hours of fun in there.


----------



## technium

[/quote]

have you used play sand in it? If not, be careful, because normal sand can stain clothing.

nice job on the build. I am sure that she will have hours of fun in there.[/quote]

Yeah mate bought specific play sand because the wife wouldnt let me go and dig up some from Weymouth beach!


----------



## Bm101

technium":1xiodife said:


> Yeah mate bought specific play sand because the wife wouldnt let me go and dig up some from Weymouth beach!



 Now there's a man after my own heart.


----------



## n0legs

Bm101":2wg5qh9r said:


> Bit of a weird one. Last week we took the kids to the Herts County show. Horses an' that. Bumbled past a smiths stall. He had some big door stops for sale. Lump of wood, iron ring in the top. Mrs goes all weak kneed. They are fifty notes each. I steer her clear. Are ya mad? Fifty quid for that?!
> So. It's someones birthday Monday. (I got her some earrings too. I ain't that tight).
> Worlds most enthusiastic Yew doorstop with brass handle. (Handle's a bit wonkey, balls). Planed nice and square from a rough blank. It's ok. An exercise in planing properly square gone right. Please don't laugh or cringe Chris P.
> And my lad is right into Harry Potter and all that malarkey. Weird day in the shed.




Mission accomplished in my book Chris =D>


----------



## n0legs

technium":mqlrm0bd said:


> I decided to try and make one of those sandpits for my granddaughter. Ive seen plans for double seated versions but ended up modifying it to make single seat version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of 4x2s and some pallet wood for the top, turned out ok




Sorted  
Sand castles all round, sweet =D>


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Make sure you put the cover down when you leave it - it'll be a giant litter tray for the neighbourhood cats.


----------



## technium

phil.p":3pxj6wvf said:


> Make sure you put the cover down when you leave it - it'll be a giant litter tray for the neighbourhood cats.



Yeah damn right. I wont be happy if they made their own castles in it!


----------



## jw00d

It's taken a long while but finished my first chest of drawers. My old man saved a load of leftover white oak flooring from going in a skip so I decided to build this to replace an old set with only 3 drawers. Very happy with how it came out, especially the drawer pulls which I made from the offcuts from the brown oak top. Definitely would've been easier if I had a table saw! (hammer) 
Jamie


----------



## Phil Pascoe

My kind of furniture - made from otherwise wasted materials. In my last house but one I made the kitchen table top from bamboo flooring as used in the kitchen - murderous stuff to work, but indestructible. Neat.


----------



## Homerjh

playing with the new/old lathe and had a go at a live edge mushroom from some unknown tree (Birch i think) from my sisters garden a few years ago.

it does look a bit rough grain, but it is very smooth (sanded to 240 i think as that's all i have).














quite like this turning lark, can get something pleasing to the eye out and done quite quick.


----------



## custard

jw00d":gao8eowx said:


> It's taken a long while but finished my first chest of drawers.



Nice job Jamie, looks very clean and tidy, and it's great to see people actually getting stuck in and making furniture. Hope you're inspired to press on with further projects!


----------



## DTR




----------



## ScottandSargeant

This is Pete's electric tandem bike called "The mackerel".. it is built from walnut and maple. the maple has been selected for the “ripple ” effect which looks like a golden irridescent stripe running across the grain – reminding one of the stripes you see on a mackerel


----------



## monkeybiter

Is there a steel inner frame clad in wood? If not I'm amazed if the front rider doesn't end walking due to sag.


----------



## yetloh

monkeybiter":kbjio4bx said:


> Is there a steel inner frame clad in wood? If not I'm amazed if the front rider doesn't end walking due to sag.



Or is it laninated, in which case it would be very strong and rigid. Either way, it's a great piece of work.


Jim


----------



## MarkDennehy

http://www.stochasticgeometry.ie/2017/0 ... the-shelf/

Father's day gift (dad's been doing a law course so there's a lot of books scattered on his desk). 
Walnut and oak (after the sapele-and-oak idea fell victim to my discovery that sapele is a turnip to plane without a toothed iron). Some detail carving and some cut nails to go with the whole "ancient legal library" sort of vibe. Garnet shellac on the walnut and lemon shellac on the oak to finish. 



























Had to keep schtum about it on the blog as well for a fortnight so he wouldn't know what I was doing


----------



## Bm101

You realise you'll never be able to make anything smaller than that makers mark Mark?  Nice work mate.


----------



## MarkDennehy

15x25mm  I can live with that BM, if I turn it the right way it'll just about fit in my shed


----------



## MarkDennehy

I mean, seriously, even that shelf was getting on a bit in size, my shed is only little


----------



## mbartlett99

Rolling router table multi thing for the new workshop out of leftovers. Somewhere to stand at last.


----------



## devonwoody

Mark, that was a nice looking and handy piece of equipment for books in situ. BTW I think you must have had a unfriendly lump of sapelle it normally works OK, and your dinky workshop I think is super.


----------



## memzey

I'm in the middle of making a small cabinet from sapele and I have found that the reversing grain, particularly on the quartered boards, rewards very sharp tools and fine shavings. A closely set cap iron is also extremely useful.


----------



## ScottandSargeant

monkeybiter":j5y7ox35 said:


> Is there a steel inner frame clad in wood? If not I'm amazed if the front rider doesn't end walking due to sag.




there is no inner steel frame - its laminated construction.. rear diagonal cross brace is an important structural element.
have see tandems without this but cannot see how they can be strong enough when going over bumpy terrain. there is a spring chain tensioner to take up the slack after assembly.


----------



## philipjdall

I don't often post here but I so enjoy reading through what other people have done so I thought I may as well…

We've been wanting to create some built in cupboard space in our bedroom for some time, and with a baby due in a few months it suddenly had to happen fast! 






I did a lot of reading on here and spent about two months planning. The build has taken 3 weeks, more like 4 weekends. 

The house is Victorian so no surprise that the recess was far from square. In fact the walls bow in wards on the outer walls, so a large amount of time was spent ensuring the frame was all plumb. I used space plugs to fill the uneven gap on the left hand side, very clever and simple invention! Taking time to ensure square payed off as when it came to fitting the drawer runners and doors it was pretty straightforward. 






The carcass is 18mm birch ply. The frame is glued and screwed, with dominoes to aid assembly. Everything was cut using a track saw, and large dados cut with my router on festool rail. 





Building the drawers:






The drawers sides are 12mm birch with 6mm base. As they were going to be varnished the finish needed to be as good as possible. Everything was dimensioned on the track saw and then dado’s and rabbets cut on my router table (for the record, the Incra LS system is awesome!). I allowed enough timber to make a dummy and then refined the design based on my learnings (essential imo). 






Each drawer has an allowance for 6mm dividers, hence the dados in the sidewall





I'm using Blum Tip-On blumotion runners; these give you tap to open and soft close. I did a lot of research as I've never fitted anything like this before. The guys at isaac lord were excellent and helped me ensure I got everything I needed in one order. The thing with Blum (and these runners in particular) is there are loads of configurations depending on drawer weight, length, load, and how vigorously you want the drawer to spring open. Lots to get your head around, but they work brilliantly in the end!






All of the drawers in. 





Then onto machining the doors, which are made from ultralite 18mm MDF. Primed and sanded with 320, then 2 coats of dulux trade satinwood. This has produced a surprisingly good edge!





Dry fit before painting





The finished job















Hopefully this helps someone, any questions please ask... or suggestions on how i could have done it better!


----------



## nev

philipjdall":20xqwmju said:


> I don't often post here but I so enjoy reading through what other people have done so I thought I may as well…
> 
> We've been wanting to create some built in cupboard space in our bedroom for some time, and with a baby due in a few months it suddenly had to happen fast!
> ...
> The finished job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully this helps someone, any questions please ask... or suggestions on how i could have done it better!



Lovely job, but maybe missed a trick with a handy 2 drawer pull out crib and changing table for the new littl'un


----------



## devonwoody

Very nice job, but not on my lists to do, the wife is 80 and she does not want anymore!!!!!!!!


----------



## Nelsun

nev":e5vo7e6m said:


> philipjdall":e5vo7e6m said:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't often post here but I so enjoy reading through what other people have done so I thought I may as well…
> 
> We've been wanting to create some built in cupboard space in our bedroom for some time, and with a baby due in a few months it suddenly had to happen fast!
> ...
> The finished job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully this helps someone, any questions please ask... or suggestions on how i could have done it better!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lovely job, but maybe missed a trick with a handy 2 drawer pull out crib and changing table for the new littl'un
Click to expand...


Added bonus: if it turns out to be triplets :shock: you've got yourself a fantastic soft-closing triple-bay crib right there 

Nice job Philip! Now get as much sleep as possible before the baby as you'll likely not get a long lie for about another 13 years =P~


----------



## philipjdall

Thanks guys

Ps - it has been confirmed we are NOT having triplets, so thankfully the three up crib will have to wait


----------



## n0legs

Hedgehog house for Prickles  
Inner and outer skins separated with 25mm insulation, also in the roof and floor. Wrapped from top to bottom with flashband.


----------



## monkeybiter

n0legs":g4zsfzol said:


> Hedgehog house for Prickles
> Inner and outer skins separated with 25mm insulation, also in the roof and floor. Wrapped from top to bottom with flashband.


I didn't know there was such a thing. Do they work? [i.e. do they attract spiny normans?]

p.s. It looks very good.


----------



## yetloh

They most certainly do. We have several around the garden (not nearly as posh as nOlegs' version) and at least on or two of them are used for hibernation each winter. As far as I know they don't get used during times they are active and I have never seen one used as a nest for raising young.

Most years we see three or four hogs on our lawn on at least one occasion so we must be doing something right.

We also have a hedgehog feeding station which is a whole other story involving a very greedy cat and my battle of wits with it to design something accessible to hogs and not to cats - I'm winning at the moment! When I have a few minutes I might post something if anyone is iterested.

Jim


----------



## Phil Pascoe

n0legs":28p2ti7p said:


> Hedgehog house for Prickles
> Inner and outer skins separated with 25mm insulation, also in the roof and floor. Wrapped from top to bottom with flashband.


 I assume you're going to make a ladder for it so he can get up and down?


----------



## monkeybiter

yetloh":1avpzdz8 said:


> When I have a few minutes I might post something if anyone is iterested.
> 
> Jim



I'm definitely interested.


----------



## monkeybiter

phil.p":15h7ch68 said:


> I assume you're going to make a ladder for it so he can get up and down?


I read somewhere, long ago, that they have made their way up to attics! 
Maybe bungalows in hillsides.


----------



## yetloh

I'll do that then. I understand that hedgehogs are surprisingly good climbers, not much to fear if thay fall because their spines act as shock absorbers.

Jim


----------



## Bm101

yetloh":1gvz69oi said:


> I'll do that then. I understand that hedgehogs are surprisingly good climbers, not much to fear if thay fall because their spines act as shock absorbers.
> 
> Jim



Actually Jim, not sure that's _quite_ true. I read your post earlier today and decided to test it out. I'm of a naturally enquiring mind so it seemed the thing to do. After some time I managed to tempt out the _Erinaceus Europaeus_ (since this was for scientific research purpose let's make the effort) with some catfood specially purchased at my own expense from under my shed where he bumbles about quite often. Those of you who have read of my previous experiences with cats when I tested the 'not enough room to swing a cat' theory in a small cobb cottage in Devon will know I am not a natural cat owner. But I'm digressing in a very unscientific manner. 
Using balanced reasoning I surmised that they couldn't be naturally great climbers. I'd never seen one in a tree or in the Alps for example. And, lets face it even the great and fearsome hedges of Cornwall rarely grow past 30 feet. So me and my two young but promising assistants, (yes the same kids so traumatised by the cat swinging experiment but well recovered now according to the psychiatrist) had a brainstorming session and settled on a 30 foot drop height, the maximum natural occuring scenario. Actually it was my oldest assistant who came up with the drop location. He's very bright you know. We loaded Lord Percy (yes,named by the youngest assistant) carefully into a scientific cardboard box. Using very intelligent methods we guessed that the local bridge 15 whole minutes walk away was about 30 foot give or take a few thou. Up the bank we climbed and at great personal risk from Sunday Drivers we released the payload (Sir Percy). I say released, it was more scientifically described as shaking the box _vigorously_. It seems that irregardless of wanting to help great leaps forward in scientific knowledge, Erinaceus Europaeus has a fair old grip when it wants to. However. I gave it a good crack on the head (still got it!) which appeared to make it more conducive to test participation.
I'm pleased to announce our results below although fear the drop location was not ideal (possibly flawed) with hindsight. 

*Scientific Result Of Bounce Test:* Inconclusive.
*Side Notes:* It seems that Erinaceus Europaeus is not a natural swimmer especially near fast boats with propellers. 
*NB*:* Small Children can cry for a surprising amount of time when emotionally upset. Literally _hours_ apparently.


----------



## monkeybiter

I think I can smell a 'prick' joke approaching....


----------



## Bm101

As a Scientist I am too intelligent to understand that comment.


----------



## yetloh

Very funny! In the real world, the writers of books on the subject who one hopes don't just make it up seem to think they can climb pretty well where they can get a good grip (which, in a garden context, probably means most places) and have a good reason to do so eg the possibility of food. They are also pretty good swimmers but do need a shallow area to get out but I'm sure you are right to say they couldn't cope with strong currents. I was coming to the conclusion that a cat could get anaywhere a hedgehog could get but think I have now disproved it, but I'll come back to that on another occasion.

Jim


----------



## NazNomad

My Dad acquired a P/T for me. It has two stock-rollers on top, one of them doubles up as a carrying handle.

THIS THING WEIGHS WELL OVER 30kg... Who t.f. designed that, Geoff capes?

It needed a mobile base, and fast. I wasn't going to lug that in & out of the garage. 

A heap of pallet wood, a 1'' thick MDF top and a smattering of hardware.












I can now lift it, and move it about, with one hand (possibly as little as one finger if I tried).


----------



## Bm101

What's the long handly thing for Naz? And the box. I know there's more to this than my tiny brain can process. Does it lift on to castors? I'm intrigued. Levers?


----------



## NazNomad

It lifts onto castors, the long handle moves to hold the treadle in place. The box contains a blade-setting thingy and some allen keys.

Explanatory video coming soon.

I just tried, I CAN lift 30+kg PLUS the table with one finger. Don't you just love mechanicking? :-D


It was made from this idea gleaned from t'interwebs.


----------



## NazNomad

[youtube]TTrZ74b1dJo[/youtube]


----------



## Nelsun

Very clever Naz. I bet it'd be real easy to c*ck it up and get the castors too high or too low. My thicknesser weighs in at 27Kg and could do with your stand... if it weren't for the wonky dry stone steps I have to lump it up every time I need to use it [DIZZY FACE]

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## Bm101

Clever man. That is_ very_ tidy. Consider stolen.

( Welly life FTW :wink: )


----------



## NazNomad

Nelsun":26flsgeg said:


> Very clever Naz. I bet it'd be real easy to c*ck it up and get the castors too high or too low.



It would, but I made the two levers first, complete with hinges & castors. then clamped them together in the 'working' position.

Set the table up on two bits of ¾ wood and then marked the holes for screwing the hinges on. That kinda meant the with the levers locked down, the table would be ¾'' off the floor.

It couldn't _not_ be the right height, it just took a bit of sussing out beforehand. :-D



The perfect solution, however, is a space big enough so you don't need to wheel everything out on the driveway to use it. But if you have to, then don't struggle.

Can you not create a wooden ramp that sits over the steps when you need to cart stuff up & down?


----------



## NazNomad

Bm101":162hp3v3 said:


> Clever man. That is_ very_ tidy. Consider stolen.



Doesn't Archimedes still hold the patent for levers? Just watch your back, you know what these Greeks are like. :-D


----------



## Nelsun

NazNomad":2j7wrpcf said:


> Nelsun":2j7wrpcf said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very clever Naz. I bet it'd be real easy to c*ck it up and get the castors too high or too low.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would, but I made the two levers first, complete with hinges & castors. then clamped them together in the 'working' position.
> 
> Set the table up on two bits of ¾ wood and then marked the holes for screwing the hinges on. That kinda meant the with the levers locked down, the table would be ¾'' off the floor.
> 
> It couldn't _not_ be the right height, it just took a bit of sussing out beforehand. :-D
> 
> 
> 
> The perfect solution, however, is a space big enough so you don't need to wheel everything out on the driveway to use it. But if you have to, then don't struggle.
> 
> Can you not create a wooden ramp that sits over the steps when you need to cart stuff up & down?
Click to expand...

You make it sound so easy. I'm sure I could find a way to put the wheels on the top...

As to my steps, they wind going up the way about 8' so it'd be some ramp! Makes for good exercise mind you.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## Cordy

A Wheelie good stand is that Naz  
=D>


----------



## Cordy

Saw this -- not sure where ?






Made this from off-cuts


----------



## marcros

curly maple rollerball pen. not the finest one that I have ever turned, but still.

I need to get a little light tent to photograph these I think.


----------



## MrTeroo

marcros":tgsbxaqp said:


> I need to get a little light tent to photograph these I think.




Or, get a random box, cut holes in 3 sides, wrap in baking paper & put some old wallpaper inside


----------



## marcros

Good results from that idea. May give it a try


----------



## Bm101

Cordy":2mj3sbbw said:


> Saw this -- not sure where ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made this from off-cuts



Might try Kokopelli for research Cordy.


----------



## marcros

few more pens

London Plane
Acacia
Mahogany
Tiger Oak
Indian Rosewood


----------



## NazNomad

Cordy, you realise that the Kokopelli is a fertility symbol? :-D


----------



## Penny

My latest turning! The Ash lower bowl blank was being binned by a pal as it had a massive crack in it. Nothing some imagination and an offcut of Spalted Beech couldn't fix! The upper bowl (which I blew through the bottom of, and needed to find a way to use it, which started this project!) and finialed post are Sycamore.


----------



## monkeybiter

That's really quite nice! Didn't think it would be [IMHO] until I saw the profile. And that was a great rescue too.


----------



## Jasper42

Penny":1fvq55ph said:


> My latest turning! The Ash lower bowl blank was being binned by a pal as it had a massive crack in it. Nothing some imagination and an offcut of Spalted Beech couldn't fix! The upper bowl (which I blew through the bottom of, and needed to find a way to use it, which started this project!) and finialed post are Sycamore.
> 
> View attachment 20170713
> 
> 
> View attachment 20170713
> 
> 
> View attachment 20170713




Like it, love the regain from the waste bin


----------



## DennisCA

Building a garden swing / pergola, currently working on the swing seat itself


----------



## devonwoody

Be nice when its finished


----------



## Phil Pascoe

:lol:


----------



## boardgamer

Umm. Looks tasty!


----------



## devonwoody

Philp, a handmade one? and what ingredients?


----------



## Phil Pascoe

You have a PM.


----------



## DennisCA

Seat for the swing is done, now to let the oil dry and mount it on the pergola:


----------



## DennisCA

Seat is mounted:


----------



## NazNomad

Don't laugh... I made some of these years ago and needed another one.

Built it at the front of the house and forgot I'd installed a covered gateway since I built the last ones.

Guess what plonker now has to take it ¼ mile to get it to the back of the house because it won't fit through the gate?


----------



## skipdiver

Some nice rustic work there Dennis and Naz. I'm partial to a bit of rustic garden furniture and hope to make a couple of Adirondack chairs when i get time to do so.


----------



## delboy47

phil.p
Saves having to push that bike up the hill for a loaf of Hovis!!


----------



## memzey

Mrs. memzey wanted a medicine cabinet to keep all the calpol etc. in one place (you accumulate a lot of "just in case" meds with three daughters). What Mrs. memzey wants, Mrs. memzey gets. Small cabinet from Sapele with oak drawer sides. Finish is 3 coats of Garnett Shellac followed by 3 coats of BLO and some wax:






My first use of dovetails in a project:






She is pleased so I am pleased. The design was inspired by something Mike Pekovich put together for a FWW article a few months back but adapted for my taste/needs.


----------



## Fitzroy

That's a great little cabinet! Sort of thing the inspires/motivates me to make furniture. You could/would have spent hours trawling shops/internet for something similar but never precisely what you wanted, instead you've been able to make something to your needs/taste with splendid quality to boot!

F.


----------



## custard

memzey":366qf3lm said:


> Mrs. memzey wanted a medicine cabinet



All credit to you Memzey.

It's great to see people actually making real furniture, making it well, and pushing themselves to tackle new techniques like dovetailing. You've done a fine job there.

=D>


----------



## SteveF

very nice cabinet, one day I will attempt proper dovetails
just wants some clear perspex on shelves and drawer bottom so you can wipe all the meds up that leak 

Steve


----------



## thetyreman

very nice memzey! that's going to last a lifetime


----------



## John15

Congratulations Memzey. A very attractive cabinet.

John


----------



## thetyreman

This is the first piece I actually designed as well as made myself, a custom size TV corner cabinet for one of my mothers friends, she hasn't seen it yet, hopefully she'll like it, the front apron at the bottom is actually dovetailed, if I made it again I'd just use a simpler mortice and tenon joint, otherwise very happy with how it turned out. It's made to match her exsisting cream painted with oak top furniture in the room. The american white oak top is finished with tung oil, and the rest is laminated redwood painted with eggshell paint.


----------



## monkeybiter

That looks smart and it suits that space.


----------



## custard

thetyreman":1zahd6al said:


> This is the first piece I actually designed as well as made myself, a custom size TV corner cabinet for one of my mothers friends, she hasn't seen it yet, hopefully she'll like it, the front apron at the bottom is actually dovetailed, if I made it again I'd just use a simpler mortice and tenon joint, otherwise very happy with how it turned out. It's made to match her exsisting cream painted with oak top furniture in the room. The american white oak top is finished with tung oil, and the rest is laminated redwood painted with eggshell paint.



I'm sure she'll be thrilled, and so should you be. That's a tidy job. In particular I really like the care you put into jointing up the boards for the top. You chose flat sawn boards that peter out to rift sawn on both edges. That's given cathedral grain in the board centres for interest and vitality, but straight grain towards the edges for invisible and harmonious jointing. When you see jointed tops that have clashing grain along the joint line it just looks careless. So well done!

=D> 

The decision on wether or not to extend the sides out at the back above the skirting board (so as to but up against the wall) is always tricky. It may get moved in the future to a location with a different height skirting board, and in any event the gripper track underneath the carpet will always tip furniture forwards by a few degrees. So on balance I think you've called this right. If it were to sit on an engineered wooden floor with an upstand then there's a counter argument, but in this situation I get your logic.


----------



## thetyreman

that skirting in our house really is weird from the 1930s, it's 1 and a half inches thick, this isn't its final resting place, 

I'll take another picture in her kitchen tomorrow, should hopefully make more sense in context, thanks for the praise, I really appreciate it. I didn't realise that you could make space and scribe the skirting shape into the back edges, learning something new all the time...


----------



## Ttrees

That is one sheweet cabinet Memzey 8)


----------



## NazNomad

custard":cwuf6rr2 said:


> It's great to see people actually making real furniture...



:?: :?: :?:


Maybe imaginary furniture isn't comfortable?


----------



## thetyreman

here's the cabinet in it's final place in the clients kitchen, she was very happy with it indeed, great reaction.


----------



## rafezetter

That's a lovely looking corner unit Thetyreman and obviously built to last.

Memzey that medicine cabinet is a beaut - blind dovetails and you say that's your first time using that technique in a piece (or did you "cheat" and use a DT jig? heh and even if you did, saved you the headache right?)

The way you talked at Richard's meet last month, you claimed to be a basic hacker, not so my friend, that is quality work, I'm honestly envious.


----------



## DennisCA

Do non wooden things count? If so, an outdoor kitchen, still in progress but starting to look more finished now that I got the 1st layer of plaster on


----------



## memzey

Thanks for the kind words everyone and nice to hear from you Rafe. To confirm: no DT jigs were molested in the making of the cabinet. All dovetails were cut by these oafish hands. Just to clarify as well, they are the first dovetails I've used on a project but not the first I've cut at all. I'd been practicing through and lap dovetails for quite a while before feeling ready to incorporate them into a project. To say that the very first practice ones I cut were gappy and ugly would be an understatement!


----------



## rafezetter

memzey":2ke7zxdh said:


> Thanks for the kind words everyone and nice to hear from you Rafe. To confirm: no DT jigs were molested in the making of the cabinet. All dovetails were cut by these oafish hands. Just to clarify as well, they are the first dovetails I've used on a project but not the first I've cut at all. I'd been practicing through and lap dovetails for quite a while before feeling ready to incorporate them into a project. To say that the very first practice ones I cut were gappy and ugly would be an understatement!



I'd still say those were excellent quality, about as "professional" as it gets - I was sure you had done DT's before, but I doubt you did hundreds; but it certainly looks as though you had, even close up; and blind DT's must be much trickier to get bang on.

*cough* I'll let you off the base DT second from the front, left side 

I do have a question though - what's going on with the rail above the drawer where it meets the sides? I can't quite make out what you've done there.

I noticed you bailed on the invisible hinge ideas, next time eh?


----------



## memzey

Hey Rafe. The fixed shelf is a simple (but oafishly executed) through housing. Should have been the easiest joint in this project but easily the messiest I made. I probably got cocky as these joints I know I can make and there is no doubt a lesson for me here. As for letting me off: mate there's a lot more than that dodgey dt going on here! Mrs. memzey likes it but I can see it's riddled with flaws I will not make again. To me each project is like a bellwether letting me know how I'm doing. The errors are still present but less obvious and more liveable as I go from extremely oafish to less so with time and practice. Still I am awestruck by much of the work posted on these boards and know I am not even close to replicating most of it. I might let you all in to the chaos with a wip thread next time if I'm feeling confident and the shed is tidy!


----------



## _lotusbleu

I recently finished this built in wardrobe. All birch ply & tulip. 

Sorry about the size of the picture! Struggled to figure out how to upload it.


----------



## custard

The cabinetry looks first rate, in particular the drawer pulls and brass hingeing work really well with that colour. However, the exposed inch or two of T&G and jamb above the doorway looks a bit unfinished. I think you can _just_ get away with the coving running in over the cabinetry provided the scribing elsewhere is neatly done, but add in that T&G/jamb and it tips the visual balance from "built in" to "sort of fitted".

Not being rude by the way, just my honest opinion.


----------



## monkeybiter

Maybe a broad flattish architrave in the same colour as the very smart looking wardrobe all around this side of the door jamb would sort that out. [Décor not really being my forte]


----------



## cowfoot

Get that thing covered up before the painters arrive!
Nice job.


----------



## no idea

I've just completed a simple but chunky hall table. It's made from sweet chestnut, with the top and shelf being one piece boards. I also managed to cut the drawer fronts out from a single board to get a perfect (to me) grain match with the front panel with the use of multi tool and Japanese saw. It's finished with two coats on English tint Fiddes hard wax oil and waxed with their light brown supreme wax. Joinery is with dominoes and the dovetails were cut with a router and jig (I enjoy using machines and power tools more than hand tools hence this approach).

I took these pictures at night time with indoor lights hence the poor shadow and colour spread.


----------



## custard

You seem to have got that lower shelf fitting really neatly between the legs...something that's never easy to pull off. And the grain match across the front apron and drawers absolutely lifts that item way above the mainstream of High Street furniture.

Well done No Idea, it looks to me like you actually have quite a bit of an idea!

=D>


----------



## Alexam

My daughter asked me to make a box suitable for the house and car keys of their family of four. They requested a lift off lid rather than one that was hinged, so this is what I came up with. using a large key as the lifting handle. The box has been flock loned and finished with Tru-Oil. Positioned on the hall table to save that 'messy pile of keys.
Malcolm


----------



## monkeybiter

I like that, and I think the handle is excellent. Best of all it's going to be used, IMHO that's the highest accolade.
Nice chair too.


----------



## DTR

There are some beautiful pieces on this page =D> =D> =D> =D>


*edit:* how's your luck? :roll: 

There are some beautiful pieces on the _previous_ page...


----------



## Alexam

Thanks Mike. The chair is a rather special one. It was part of a dining suite that my father bought many years ago where the two carvers had matching lions heads. The second one was sold with the suite and may still be somewhere in the country. Cromwell, as we call him, is a bonus we love.
Malcolm


----------



## stevenk4563

My first real woodworking project, used a Veritas cutter and took some inspiration from the shape of their version.


----------



## Chris152

My first finished thing, too - as finished as it's going to be for now, it's her birthday tomorrow. 
The sides are bandsaw resawn pine from B&Q, planed smooth. The dovetails a mixture of hand sawn and using jigs I made for the bandsaw (I posted that before). The lid and base are sweet cherry, bought rough sawn - I resawed and then planed smooth and square and jointed them. I tried to follow Custard's guidance on the lining but used fabric (time was running short and it's what I had) and have nothing like his precision. It fits ok-ish but I might have to redo that sometime. A couple of applications of boiled linseed oil followed by polishing wax.

I learned a lot from doing it. 
Some of the joints are ok, some needed filling. And I didn't realise you can get tinted filler so I used either white, or glue with sawdust. Neither looks good. 
The 'rebate' is a bit of square wood, as is the one inside the box - both look a bit naff so I wouldn't do that again, but it works. 
The lid cupped 1 / 1.5 mm or so front and rear - next time I'll get on with sealing the wood asap, that should help stop it?
Use the same wood throughout or use properly contrasting woods - they don't really work well together here.


----------



## stevenk4563

Only the iron is Veritas, the rest of the hardware is random bits from ebay, the shape of the toe and frog(is it still a frog on a router plane?) is inspired by the Veritas plane shape then I pulled out some wings for hand grips.


----------



## Ttrees

Thanks Steven
I would like to know if that brass turnwheel is a plumbing part, and is it a good fit for the veritas iron
If so what is it called ?
I suppose I also wouldn't mind to know what that blade clamp is from ?

I didn't realise the veritas iron was available on its own, wish I knew it last week.
Thanks
Tom


----------



## stevenk4563

These are the bits I used:

Cutter holder in M8 size
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A4-Stainless- ... 2749.l2649

Thumbwheel in M6 size
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Knurled ... 2749.l2649

Both of these needed modifying to fit, the cutter holder needs the hole filed until it fits the cutter securely, and the thumbwheel needs to be ground down a bit to fit in the slot.


----------



## Ttrees

Thanks Steven 
Well done on finding those bits =D>


----------



## Steve Maskery

And where did you get the brass tightening knob please? That looks a lovely tool.


----------



## stevenk4563

That was ebay too  

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-Knurled-Br ... 2225822326?


----------



## Steve Maskery

Thank you.


----------



## Keith 66

I just finished this Cigar box guitar off, it started out as a Ritz casino box & has a maple & walnut neck, the box lid was very pale so it got a nice piece of book matched burr walnut veneer with maple inlay. Tuners got new half moon bronze knobs. It has a preamp & rod piezo pickup. Nice bluesy tone. Took a while to finish!


----------



## Lonsdale73

I made a mess of my finger...


----------



## Nelsun

Lonsdale73":l9j7qbhv said:


> I made a mess of my finger...


...and I just made a mess all over my desk after clocking that. Gyaaj! That looks "sore" with quite a lot of "annoying" added on top :|


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Well, it could have been worse ... it could have been mine. Seriously, it could have been your thumb.


----------



## Lonsdale73

phil.p":2tbs2a3y said:


> Well, it could have been worse ... it could have been mine. Seriously, it could have been your thumb.



Yes, I got off lightly. I was told I could remove the dressing today and soak off the stitches which I didn't. Hasn't knitted as well as I'd hoped so guess I'm not getting back in the workshop for a few days yet.. Although it didn't stop me attempting a spot of energency plumbing yesterday.


----------



## skipdiver

Ouch!

Took a piece off the end of my thumb on the bandsaw about three weeks ago, nowhere near as bad as that but i'm only just able to use my hand properly now. Hurt like hell every time i caught my thumb end on something, which you tend to do more when you are trying not to use it and holding your digit at an unnatural angle, especially with a big dressing stuck on the end. 

Feel your pain.


----------



## whiskywill

Alexam":3dcjtv7i said:


> View attachment 2017
> View attachment 2017
> 
> My daughter asked me to make a box suitable for the house and car keys of their family of four. They requested a lift off lid rather than one that was hinged, so this is what I came up with. using a large key as the lifting handle. The box has been flock loned and finished with Tru-Oil. Positioned on the hall table to save that 'messy pile of keys.
> Malcolm



So, now anybody who burgles your daughter's house knows where to find the keys to the car of his (or her) choice. Since losing my car after a burglary, all of my keys are well hidden every time I am out of the house or in bed.


----------



## morturn

It about time I posted something on here. Quilted Mahogany back and sides steel string guitar. I have no idea what the burl is on the peghead, it’s one of a few I have that I like the look of.

Oil finish, couple more coats required, then fit the bridge, machine heads and we should be good to go by the weekend.


----------



## Chris152

It started as a exercise in jointing wood which seemed to go ok, so I bought some cheap pine to develop it into a trial table. I found a good used morticer so invested in that (with guidance from a member of the forum) - I love the thing! Some fettling of the tenons after cutting on the bandsaw and they all seemed to fit as well as I could do...




and then, on glueing up, I failed to get the joints square. #-o 




The two legs to the right of this photo aren't at right angles to the top, they're about a degree out and you can see a gap where the bottom of the apron (is supposed to) join the leg.
Still, my first table, lots learned including the importance of getting things in the right place before glueing.


----------



## custard

It's a sign of real craftsmanship Chris when you can objectively analyse your work, recognise shortcomings, and plan how to do better next time.

All that's missing on your table aprons is one single step, scribing the tenon shoulders. Personally I prefer to do that job with a shoulder plane, but I know some fine craftsmen who prefer a chisel. 

Apart from that it looks like you've done a cracking job, the top appears to be well jointed and the overhangs are nicely proportioned. You've taken the trouble to get some reasonably clean boards. You've set the aprons in from the legs which is a smart move (personally I'd aim for 3mm in order to maximise the tenon strength, which might be a bit less than you've used, but so what!), the aprons are well proportioned to the rest of the table being neither too narrow nor too deep. All in all you should be well pleased with yourself.


----------



## Chris152

Thank you, Custard! 
I've been searching online but can't get this clear - when you say 'scribing the tenon shoulders', you seem to mean more than just marking out. I did that with a pencil line, and cut to the line. But when it came to tidying up the inaccuracies I'd made with the band saw to get the shoulder as near flat as I could, I used a chisel and found it tricky, particularly as along the length the shoulders were only 4mm wide and hard to register the chisel on. I made such a mess of one that I had to trim the shoulder again with the bandsaw. 
Is that whole process scribing, or just marking the line? Or am I completely misunderstanding?!


----------



## DTR

That's a very nicely proportioned table =D>. Getting the proportions right is the hardest bit, imho


----------



## custard

Chris152":2ha2t5bc said:


> I've been searching online but can't get this clear - when you say 'scribing the tenon shoulders', you seem to mean more than just marking out.



Hello Chris. Yes, scribing a tenon shoulder is different to marking out. Maybe a practical example will help illustrate the difference.

This is a cabinet door in Curly Cherry that I'm currently working on. The panels have had an initial coat of finish prior to assembly (so there'll be no bare wood visible if the panels subsequently shrink) but the frame is unfinished.






Let's think about the process of making this door. There are three main objectives,

1. The door must be completely flat, with no twist or wind. 
2. It must be square.
3. All the joints must close up _perfectly_, with no gaps anywhere.

In furniture making it really helps to separate out the objectives, dealing with each one individually. So I start by checking for twist, either with winding sticks or by laying the door on a known flat surface and pressing down on each of the four corners whilst seeing if there's any rocking. This is the critical test, and it's really down to how accurately the tenon _cheeks_ were cut. If the door fails this test there's very little I can do and it might mean making the door again from scratch. But if this test is passed then I'm home safe, because any shortcomings in the second two tests can be dealt with.

Next I test for square by cramping up and measuring the diagonals. I'll adjust the cramps in order to achieve square, but at this stage I completely ignore if any gaps open up around one of two of the joints. All I want at this stage is square.

Once the cramps are delivering square then I critically examine all around each joint. On High Street furniture there will often be a minute gap here or there. But, in order to sell at a premium, furniture needs to be better than that, each joint must be flawless.

So, I turn to the problem joint and establish with feeler gauges the size of the gap. Let's say it's 0.2mm, I'd be a bit embarrassed if it were as large as that, but even a gap of a thou will be visible as a dark line once the finish is applied. Having established the gap is 0.2mm I'll take a feeler gauge of either 0.2mm or maybe 0.25mm. I'll press the feeler gauge tight against the stile and using a knife I'll scribe a line _completely_ around the offending rail. I should add that I've previously checked the tenons with a square even before assembly, so I know there's no missed splinters of wood holding the joint apart, but if I suspected that might be the case then I'd check that first before scribing.

The door is then disassembled and, using a sharp and properly set up shoulder plane, with the plane's side pressed tightly against the tenon, I'll plane down precisely to that knifed in scribe line. I'll clean up any fuzz with a chisel and I might even undercut the shoulders very, very slightly.

The door is then cramped up again for another test assembly, and if the remedial work has been carried out correctly this time there'll be a tick against all three objectives, so I can move on to the glue-up.

On rectilinear furniture making like this cabinet it's all fairly straightforward. But let's look at a more demanding situation. This is a chair that's typical of the stuff I make,











Here you have multiple mortice and tenon joints that are coming together at angles, compound angles, or are jointing curved components. There's no way you can accurately make an item like this completely from the plan. You will almost certainly have to fettle some joints individually to achieve a perfect fit. Furthermore, if you look at the back bars on this chair, you have multiple tenoned components that all need to close up _at the same time_. In situations like these scribing tenon shoulders is the only way I know that you can achieve first class work.

When I look at how cabinet making is dealt with on-line or in magazines these days I sometimes despair. Techniques like scribing shoulders are pretty much essential, yet they hardly ever feature. Maybe they're considered too boring in an age that's looking for fast results, maybe the people making the YouTube videos don't really know what they're talking about (I suspect many of them have never made a stick of worthwhile furniture in their lives, but hey ho, they're internet stars so who cares!), or maybe magazines edit down their articles to fit within a two or three page limit so stuff like this gets scant attention? Who knows.

Incidentally, I'm not saying my methods are the _only_ way, or even the _best_ way. But techniques like scribing tenon shoulders have worked for me across literally thousands of joints, and my customers keep buying my stuff, so I guess I'm doing something right.

Good luck!


----------



## Chris152

Thanks Custard - everything I've seen and even read seemed to work on the basis that you mark up, cut and fit together. The example you give is incredibly helpful - I completely missed much of that process, and it shows. That might be in part because I was so excited to actually get to the glueing up stage, but it's also because I didn't know that sequence and the final fitting process. As for non-rectilinear work, I'll save that for another day... :shock: 

I'm tempted to dismantle the table and have another go at the legs and apron, but I also want to try some detailing in the surface so think I might just leave it as is and use it to experiment on. And for the next table, I'm going to try a harder wood, maybe ash. And I'll be scribing as you describe, and taking more time to ensure everything's where it should be. I've not used a feeler gauge since I was a kid and we used to have to set the tappets on our cars. The more I learn about working with wood, the more I realise precision is key.

Thanks again.


----------



## thick_mike

morturn":39aryoir said:


> It about time I posted something on here. Quilted Mahogany back and sides steel string guitar. I have no idea what the burl is on the peghead, it’s one of a few I have that I like the look of.
> 
> Oil finish, couple more coats required, then fit the bridge, machine heads and we should be good to go by the weekend.



The back of that guitar is beautiful.

More photos when it's finished please!


----------



## Brian18741

Finally made some more progress one the bed! Only thing left now is to find a nice piece of spalted beech or sycamore or something with a live edge to cap the head and foot boards. 











Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


----------



## Brian18741

custard":1nubz4e8 said:


> Chris152":1nubz4e8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been searching online but can't get this clear - when you say 'scribing the tenon shoulders', you seem to mean more than just marking out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Chris. Yes, scribing a tenon shoulder is different to marking out. Maybe a practical example will help illustrate the difference.
> 
> This is a cabinet door in Curly Cherry that I'm currently working on. The panels have had an initial coat of finish prior to assembly (so there'll be no bare wood visible if the panels subsequently shrink) but the frame is unfinished.
> 
> 
> 
> Let's think about the process of making this door. There are three main objectives,
> 
> 1. The door must be completely flat, with no twist or wind.
> 2. It must be square.
> 3. All the joints must close up _perfectly_, with no gaps anywhere.
> 
> In furniture making it really helps to separate out the objectives, dealing with each one individually. So I start by checking for twist, either with winding sticks or by laying the door on a known flat surface and pressing down on each of the four corners whilst seeing if there's any rocking. This is the critical test, and it's really down to how accurately the tenon _cheeks_ were cut. If the door fails this test there's very little I can do and it might mean making the door again from scratch. But if this test is passed then I'm home safe, because any shortcomings in the second two tests can be dealt with.
> 
> Next I test for square by cramping up and measuring the diagonals. I'll adjust the cramps in order to achieve square, but at this stage I completely ignore if any gaps open up around one of two of the joints. All I want at this stage is square.
> 
> Once the cramps are delivering square then I critically examine all around each joint. On High Street furniture there will often be a minute gap here or there. But, in order to sell at a premium, furniture needs to be better than that, each joint must be flawless.
> 
> So, I turn to the problem joint and establish with feeler gauges the size of the gap. Let's say it's 0.2mm, I'd be a bit embarrassed if it were as large as that, but even a gap of a thou will be visible as a dark line once the finish is applied. Having established the gap is 0.2mm I'll take a feeler gauge of either 0.2mm or maybe 0.25mm. I'll press the feeler gauge tight against the stile and using a knife I'll scribe a line _completely_ around the offending rail. I should add that I've previously checked the tenons with a square even before assembly, so I know there's no missed splinters of wood holding the joint apart, but if I suspected that might be the case then I'd check that first before scribing.
> 
> The door is then disassembled and, using a sharp and properly set up shoulder plane, with the plane's side pressed tightly against the tenon, I'll plane down precisely to that knifed in scribe line. I'll clean up any fuzz with a chisel and I might even undercut the shoulders very, very slightly.
> 
> The door is then cramped up again for another test assembly, and if the remedial work has been carried out correctly this time there'll be a tick against all three objectives, so I can move on to the glue-up.
> 
> On rectilinear furniture making like this cabinet it's all fairly straightforward. But let's look at a more demanding situation. This is a chair that's typical of the stuff I make,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you have multiple mortice and tenon joints that are coming together at angles, compound angles, or are jointing curved components. There's no way you can accurately make an item like this completely from the plan. You will almost certainly have to fettle some joints individually to achieve a perfect fit. Furthermore, if you look at the back bars on this chair, you have multiple tenoned components that all need to close up _at the same time_. In situations like these scribing tenon shoulders is the only way I know that you can achieve first class work.
> 
> When I look at how cabinet making is dealt with on-line or in magazines these days I sometimes despair. Techniques like scribing shoulders are pretty much essential, yet they hardly ever feature. Maybe they're considered too boring in an age that's looking for fast results, maybe the people making the YouTube videos don't really know what they're talking about (I suspect many of them have never made a stick of worthwhile furniture in their lives, but hey ho, they're internet stars so who cares!), or maybe magazines edit down their articles to fit within a two or three page limit so stuff like this gets scant attention? Who knows.
> 
> Incidentally, I'm not saying my methods are the _only_ way, or even the _best_ way. But techniques like scribing tenon shoulders have worked for me across literally thousands of joints, and my customers keep buying my stuff, so I guess I'm doing something right.
> 
> Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thank you Custard for taking the time to write this very detailed and enlightening post. I've absorbed countless hours of woodwork instruction from a wide variety of sources on YouTube and the likes and this is the first time I've heard of scribing Tenon shoulders. Of course, it makes absolute sense but I'm surprised I've not heard it sooner. It is details like this that separate the wheat from the chaff. 

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----------



## Chris152

For an extra £3.98 of CLS and the offcuts from the main ramp, we got this, too! (small jump/ landing ramp.)


----------



## Cordy

Brian18741 
Bed looks good so far, what kind of joints did you use ?


----------



## Brian18741

The bulk of the head and foot boards are tongue and groove, with a couple mortise and tenons for the styles on the headboard. The legs are glued with a couple of pocket holes to hold it together while the glue dried. I was just going to glue them but didn't have clamps long enough. Not sure yet how I'll attach the beach top, think it will be just glue again with a couple of hidden dowels underneath for alignment while it dries. Never made anything this big so lots of learning! 

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----------



## ColeyS1

Brian18741":1d4596cp said:


> The bulk of the head and foot boards are tongue and groove, with a couple mortise and tenons for the styles on the headboard. The legs are glued with a couple of pocket holes to hold it together while the glue dried. I was just going to glue them but didn't have clamps long enough. Not sure yet how I'll attach the beach top, think it will be just glue again with a couple of hidden dowels underneath for alignment while it dries. Never made anything this big so lots of learning!
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


The bed looks great and I really like the colour. Smart job  

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Brian18741

Thanks. Think the colour will look great with a nice piece of spalted beech or something on top. Should be a good contrast. 

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----------



## Hot stuff

Well impressed with the bed Brian, that'll look smart with the contrast of the beech. I made an oak one for a bedroom in the rental we're doing up at the moment but I think I'll steal that idea for the other room. 
What set up did you use for the slats, they look quite deep from what I can see on the photo?


----------



## ScaredyCat

Hi folks,

You might remember me from such posts as "How do I sharpen a chisel" or "I've never built anything before, I'm going to build a house" :wink: - I've taken what you all said with regard to the cabinet and errm, ignored you _a bit_. That's not to say I didn't take on board what you were all saying, I certainly appreciated all the advice, but stubborn mule is stubborn. I've learned an awful lot in doing this and that was my primary goal. There are mistakes, but I know what they are and why they exist and what I need to do next time. I expanded my tools with a Japanese crosscut saw - yes I know it was recommended I didn't, but it's so nice to use. Now I have to start making holders for the few tools I do have. Three of the sides are perfect one, the right, I cocked up my measurement ever so slightly and it's not quite square - It's already starting to annoy me  Still not complete some sanding and finishing work to do.

Anyway, pictures are what you want, 






I learned that kerf is important when cutting dados, even when it's one of those Japanese saws. 





These look better from the other room, with the door closed..





I didn't want any screws showing at all for the holders, so I used dowels to hold them in place. At the moment they aren't glued because I need to do more shaping. It's slow with just sandpaper. 






Don't be too cruel...


----------



## thetyreman

that's a good start @scaredycat, remember that if there are no mistakes, you never learn anything, we live in a society obssessed with perfectionism and never making mistakes, but that's not how you master anything, that tool cabinet looks good to me so far, don't be too hard on yourself.


----------



## Brian18741

ScaredyCat":1ku005l7 said:


> Hi folks,
> 
> You might remember me from such posts as "How do I sharpen a chisel" or "I've never built anything before, I'm going to build a house" :wink: - I've taken what you all said with regard to the cabinet and errm, ignored you _a bit_. That's not to say I didn't take on board what you were all saying, I certainly appreciated all the advice, but stubborn mule is stubborn. I've learned an awful lot in doing this and that was my primary goal. There are mistakes, but I know what they are and why they exist and what I need to do next time. I expanded my tools with a Japanese crosscut saw - yes I know it was recommended I didn't, but it's so nice to use. Now I have to start making holders for the few tools I do have. Three of the sides are perfect one, the right, I cocked up my measurement ever so slightly and it's not quite square - It's already starting to annoy me  Still not complete some sanding and finishing work to do.
> 
> Anyway, pictures are what you want,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned that kerf is important when cutting dados, even when it's one of those Japanese saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These look better from the other room, with the door closed..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't want any screws showing at all for the holders, so I used dowels to hold them in place. At the moment they aren't glued because I need to do more shaping. It's slow with just sandpaper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't be too cruel...


Very nice, now fill it! 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


----------



## Brian18741

Hot stuff":jigsg28v said:


> Well impressed with the bed Brian, that'll look smart with the contrast of the beech. I made an oak one for a bedroom in the rental we're doing up at the moment but I think I'll steal that idea for the other room.
> What set up did you use for the slats, they look quite deep from what I can see on the photo?


Thanks! The slats were a 2x10 I think, that I ripped down to 2" square and made a frame from. The side rails have a rebate cut in them that the slats just sit on. They are attached with this hardware from Hafele. Surprisingly sturdy, and that's for a super king size, 6' mattress! 



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## n0legs

A pair of walnut bedside cabinets for the good woman and I. Ebony dowels and handles, all my own work.
They still need some more polishing


----------



## Brian18741

Lovely. The dowels create a really interesting pattern on the sides! 

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## ScaredyCat

thetyreman":109tvzfz said:


> that's a good start @scaredycat, remember that if there are no mistakes, you never learn anything, we live in a society obssessed with perfectionism and never making mistakes, but that's not how you master anything, that tool cabinet looks good to me so far, don't be too hard on yourself.



Yeah I know where you're coming from. I've never had any kind of training ( although I watch a lot of Youtube videos) so I appreciate my mistakes. My next thing should be better


----------



## Ttrees

Had some fun getting used to the lathe 
Just messing, but some things learned


----------



## Bm101

n0legs":lw7haiap said:


> A pair of walnut bedside cabinets for the good woman and I. Ebony dowels and handles, all my own work.
> They still need some more polishing



Shall I put me glasses on or what mate? Help me out and post a picture I can see! Look fantastic but I'd like to see them close up NL's! I'm not the coastguard Bud. Don't even own binoculars.


----------



## John15

n0legs":27u1m6yn said:


> A pair of walnut bedside cabinets for the good woman and I. Ebony dowels and handles, all my own work.
> They still need some more polishing



Very nice NoLegs. Walnut is a beautiful wood - wish is wasn't so expensive.

John


----------



## DTR

Finally made a proper planing stop for the workbench:









No WIP thread, as it's just a stick


----------



## monkeybiter

Ha ha first piccy I thought 'it's just an offcut sat on the bench'. That'll be easy to trim when it wears, and better than planing toward one of those metal fold-down planing stops threatening to chip the plane.
Have you received your first 25% royalties for your selfie yet?


----------



## NazNomad

Nothing too special.






Oak box and horseshoe made from the Randomwood Tree.


----------



## Mike Jordan

The camera really lies here, the barley twist has a pronounced taper from wide at the base to narrow at the top,
but not in this photo.
And now for the wine,


----------



## Mike Jordan

This one is a little better.
The real problem is buying a camera with a brain bigger than mine !


----------



## Bm101

Try taking the photo closer from a lower vantage point looking up slightly even better if you can aim a lamp at the top of the stem . Might help Mike.
Very nice btw.


----------



## Mike Jordan

Thanks, I've worked out that the sheet of ply used as a background is leaning at an angle with the top further away, so the the camera flash has thrown a longer shadow at the top and made the barley twist look parallel.
Mike.


----------



## ScaredyCat

If an effort to understand wood grain more I made a cutting board. No electricity was used (by me) in the making of this board  wood came from eBay seller as offcuts all varying heights etc. I laminated them and, rather than cut the individual pieces to be the same height I just planed them down after the glue had dried. I generated a bucket load of shavings in the process. Oddly from the pictures the edges don't look straight, but they are.


----------



## undergroundhunter

Nothing too interesting, just a couple of new shooting boards.






I have been prepping this board for my next project though


----------



## NazNomad

Never owned one of these, and I had a 4'' square length of Chestnut hanging around.


----------



## ScaredyCat

NazNomad":3mvxw2cx said:


> Never owned one of these, and I had a 4'' square length of Chestnut hanging around.




I presume you turned it, rather than it was hewn?

Very nice however the result was achieved.


----------



## NazNomad

yes, it was turned.


----------



## custard

NazNomad":14fetgt6 said:


> Oak box and horseshoe made from the Randomwood Tree.



That horseshoe isn't easy, especially when it's as well made as that. 

=D> 

How many hours did it take?


----------



## NazNomad

custard":ef0v2njd said:


> NazNomad":ef0v2njd said:
> 
> 
> 
> Oak box and horseshoe made from the Randomwood Tree.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That horseshoe isn't easy, especially when it's as well made as that.
> 
> =D>
> 
> How many hours did it take?
Click to expand...


The horseshoe was the easy part... scrollsaw and a few layers - (pattern for anyone who needs a wooden horseshoe) https://s20.postimg.org/raqvrlkbh/horseshoe_b.jpg

Getting that oak box to fit together almost seamlessly was the difficult part for me with my skill set.

I didn't count the hours I put into it, most of the box was ''glue - wait overnight - repeat'', so it was a project I went back to as and when.

Plus, my Mum commissioned it for someone, so it's a labour of love. I won't charge her for it, especially as my Dad obtained most of my machinery and wood for me over time. :-D


----------



## Bm101

Also she _did_ give birth to you Naz lol. Minor point.


----------



## NazNomad

Bm101":2mrlcw6p said:


> Also she _did_ give birth to you Naz lol. Minor point.



Yeah, she's still taking the blame for that. :-D


----------



## Bm101




----------



## Simo

Here's a couple of photos of my latest project. I don't normally take on any commissioned builds, but about 6 months ago I was asked by a friend if I'd build him a guitar in memory of his daughter, who sadly passed away last year. The inlays on the 7th, 9th and 16th frets represent her date of birth, there's also a small name plate on the below the bridge. The guitar was finished a couple of weeks ago, just in time for a fund raising gig that Dave and his wife had arranged, which raised over £2.5k for the neonatal departments at the Leicester Royal Infirmary.

The top is burl Poplar, with a Black Limba body. The neck is Black Limba and Maple, with a Blackwood Tek (Ebony substitute) fretboard.


----------



## Robbo3

Gorgeous.


----------



## stevemorris

new member here, thought i would add something to this thread
reclaimed cedar from an old house

simple construction, all flat joinery


----------



## memzey

Nicely done Steve. Very elegant looking for garden furniture. I hope that they hold up well.


----------



## stevemorris

memzey":19v7rtbs said:


> Nicely done Steve. Very elegant looking for garden furniture. I hope that they hold up well.


they are made from eastern white cedar as its known over here(Canada). well known as being very weather resistant
I made adirondak chairs years ago from the same material, held up very well over 10 years


----------



## ScaredyCat

undergroundhunter":3plmnguo said:


> Nothing too interesting, just a couple of new shooting boards.



You should sell those for £80 a pop....


----------



## Doris

My wedding present for my Pastor at Church who is getting married next week. A Dove I carved. The body is made from lime and the wings tulip. Mounted onto a Oak base I also made. Was fun to make but drilled a hole in my thumb in the process.


----------



## DennisCA

Chalkboard for the kids:


----------



## MusicMan

Lovely work, all these last few posts.


----------



## Cordy

> new member here, thought i would add something to this thread
> reclaimed cedar from an old house
> 
> simple construction, all flat joinery


Nice chairs there Steve, I can see the Adirondack influence

Are plans available ? -- Wouldn't mind having a try at one myself


----------



## xy mosian

Smashing work all around.
Doris, a lovely Dove. Did you use a joint for the Tulip to Lime or a well glued butt?
xy


----------



## Phil Pascoe

A dovetail.


----------



## xy mosian

phil.p":3ew430cb said:


> A dovetail.



Yeah Ok! Nice one!!
xy


----------



## Doris

xy mosian":76kfe0yl said:


> Smashing work all around.
> Doris, a lovely Dove. Did you use a joint for the Tulip to Lime or a well glued butt?
> xy


Thank you. I used two tenons from the body using two kebab skewers then drilled two matching holes on each wing. I drilled my thumb in the process though as I used my pendant drill to drill the holes in the wings (due to the shape). The last hole to be drilled broke through and my thumb was right in the firing line so the drill quickly made its way through it compared to the tulip. Lesson learned though. Two weeks on my thumb is still quite sore but almost fully healed.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## xy mosian

Doris":1280e1zl said:


> xy mosian":1280e1zl said:
> 
> 
> 
> Smashing work all around.
> Doris, a lovely Dove. Did you use a joint for the Tulip to Lime or a well glued butt?
> xy
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. I used two tenons from the body using two kebab skewers then drilled two matching holes on each wing. I drilled my thumb in the process though as I used my pendant drill to drill the holes in the wings (due to the shape). The last hole to be drilled broke through and my thumb was right in the firing line so the drill quickly made its way through it compared to the tulip. Lesson learned though. Two weeks on my thumb is still quite sore but almost fully healed.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That sounds like the sort of thing that you just know will happen but cannot avoid somehow. I do hope that your thumb clears up quickly, I'll bet it gets in the way all the time.
Still a good solution to the problem very well done. By the way how does the Tulip compare to the Lime when carved?
xy


----------



## Doris

xy mosian":1n4eqp3l said:


> Doris":1n4eqp3l said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> xy mosian":1n4eqp3l said:
> 
> 
> 
> Smashing work all around.
> Doris, a lovely Dove. Did you use a joint for the Tulip to Lime or a well glued butt?
> xy
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. I used two tenons from the body using two kebab skewers then drilled two matching holes on each wing. I drilled my thumb in the process though as I used my pendant drill to drill the holes in the wings (due to the shape). The last hole to be drilled broke through and my thumb was right in the firing line so the drill quickly made its way through it compared to the tulip. Lesson learned though. Two weeks on my thumb is still quite sore but almost fully healed.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That sounds like the sort of thing that you just know will happen but cannot avoid somehow. I do hope that your thumb clears up quickly, I'll bet it gets in the way all the time.
> Still a good solution to the problem very well done. By the way how does the Tulip compare to the Lime when carved?
> xy
Click to expand...

Thanks. It's almost healed up.

I use a power carved with burrs more than chisels and knives nowadays. They act more or less the same I find. Tulip has a little more resistance but it's splitting hairs really. I find they both will keep their shape, which is what matters at the end of the day.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## custard

Doris":1jgb0iol said:


> A Dove I carved. The body is made from lime and the wings tulip. Mounted onto a Oak base I also made.



Excellent work (as always), in particular the base really compliments the piece. All too often high quality work is let down by a clunky plinth or base. So congratulations on the carving _and_ the base!

=D>


----------



## bugbear

custard":33g0ni73 said:


> All too often high quality work is let down by a clunky plinth or base.


Ever been to a model engineering exhibition? :lol: 

The engineering is pretty much always gorgeous, but I've seen 3/4" plywood (with varnish 'n' drips finish), and
labels that were dymo'd, and not even applied straight. Bizarre!

BugBear


----------



## Doris

custard":1ruotgyl said:


> Doris":1ruotgyl said:
> 
> 
> 
> A Dove I carved. The body is made from lime and the wings tulip. Mounted onto a Oak base I also made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent work (as always), in particular the base really compliments the piece. All too often high quality work is let down by a clunky plinth or base. So congratulations on the carving _and_ the base!
> 
> =D>
Click to expand...


Why thank you. It's out of an old oak fence post someone gave me year ago. I've been using it for bases mostly. Think the rod that the bird sits on (or is up his bum) came from a printer.


----------



## Rob B

ScaredyCat":631trego said:


> If an effort to understand wood grain more I made a cutting board. No electricity was used (by me) in the making of this board  wood came from eBay seller as offcuts all varying heights etc. I laminated them and, rather than cut the individual pieces to be the same height I just planed them down after the glue had dried. I generated a bucket load of shavings in the process. Oddly from the pictures the edges don't look straight, but they are.



Hi SC,
As I'm new to all this can you tell me what wood you used on this? I presume they are all hardwood. 
I saw an Aussie on Youtube making one and thought it would be something I could start on but his wood was all from Australia.
Thanks
Rob


----------



## Chris152

Finally finished this.




I tried attaching legs to the top using what I think is the method used by Hank Gilpin in another thread here, hopefully enough room for expansion in the holes for the screw.




The table's pretty small, more of a foot stool than the coffee table it started as! But I learned lots from it and the next one's bigger, if I ever get the surface sorted.


----------



## custard

Chris152":2yw9pta8 said:


> Finally finished this.



Wow! A really striking design, perfectly complimented by the finish. I bet that would sell well. Impressive stuff.

=D>


----------



## Chris152

Thank you! If you look closer than the photo allows you'll see the evidence of the struggles made along the way, but overall I'm pleased with it and hopefully I'll be better at the making next time. 
The design's based on de Stijl furniture which I'm trying to take my own way. And not expecting to run before I can walk, if I can get the skills right i'd love to market some in future - we'll see!


----------



## ScaredyCat

Rob B":3nzfxo5k said:


> ScaredyCat":3nzfxo5k said:
> 
> 
> 
> If an effort to understand wood grain more I made a cutting board. No electricity was used (by me) in the making of this board  wood came from eBay seller as offcuts all varying heights etc. I laminated them and, rather than cut the individual pieces to be the same height I just planed them down after the glue had dried. I generated a bucket load of shavings in the process. Oddly from the pictures the edges don't look straight, but they are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi SC,
> As I'm new to all this can you tell me what wood you used on this? I presume they are all hardwood.
> I saw an Aussie on Youtube making one and thought it would be something I could start on but his wood was all from Australia.
> Thanks
> Rob
Click to expand...


Rob, I'm new to this too  Yes it's all hardwood.

Left to right:

Oak
Maple
Steamed beech
Ash
Sapale
Maple
Walnut
Maple

That should allow you to work out the pattern  

Sorry about the bitty reply, using my phone to reply, it's a bit awkward.


----------



## Bm101

Chris152":2aekbfls said:


> Finally finished this.
> 
> I tried attaching legs to the top using what I think is the method used by Hank Gilpin in another thread here, hopefully enough room for expansion in the holes for the screw.
> 
> The table's pretty small, more of a foot stool than the coffee table it started as! But I learned lots from it and the next one's bigger, if I ever get the surface sorted.



Oh I like that. Not really my thing usually but it certainly caught my eye.


----------



## Rob B

Thanks SC, that's a great help, will make a start when I get back from Portugal.
Cheers


----------



## NazNomad

Not sure this should even be in the 'woodworking' section, but...






However, I do have a question ...

It's quarter-sawn oak - but what are the very light-coloured patches in the grain? What's going on inside the tree there?


----------



## Bob Graham

New to turning so nothing elaborate. Top picture about 4.5" and bottom 5.5" both turned from reclaimed Parana Pine.


----------



## marcros

NazNomad":28hjbnvt said:


> Not sure this should even be in the 'woodworking' section, but...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, I do have a question ...
> 
> It's quarter-sawn oak - but what are the very light-coloured patches in the grain? What's going on inside the tree there?



medullary rays

http://www.peakoak.co.uk/wood-flooring- ... lary_Rays/


----------



## RogerP

Also mentioned by Custard here ...
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/how-to-buy-hardwoods-t107912.html


----------



## NazNomad

Ahaaa, I'd seen the word 'medullary' on here before, but Essex boy & a four syllable word, you're asking a lot really. :-D


----------



## Bm101

Indubitably.


----------



## DTR

Bm101":3qtphv75 said:


> Indubitably.



Eh?


----------



## DTR

Nice stand Naz, and nice platter(?) Bob =D>


----------



## NazNomad

Blank wall in the kitchen needed some 'wall art'. Just need to figure out how to hang them. Sawtooth hangers maybe?






Stick is 25'' long.

Oh yeah, and it's all pallet wood, sorry.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

They're Fab.


----------



## custard

NazNomad":1z9lgrwa said:


> Blank wall in the kitchen needed some 'wall art'. Just need to figure out how to hang them. Sawtooth hangers maybe?
> 
> Stick is 25'' long.
> 
> Oh yeah, and it's all pallet wood, sorry.



That is absolutely superb. Brilliantly conceived, brilliantly executed, and very very commercial; I'd bet a pound to a penny you could sell those all day long.

=D>


----------



## Bob Graham

Fab (I liked that) Nice job. Hang with French Cleat maybe.


----------



## marcros

I would go with either a keyhole router bit, or the button fix system.


----------



## NazNomad

Ooh, hadn't seen those button fix thingys before, I like those.

I was thinking a sawtooth hanger to give me a little adjustment, as the pieces won't want to hang vertically (except the stick)


----------



## Bob Graham

Memsahib wanted a new door stop. This started as an old piece of oak (I think) 4 x 4 inch fence post. It's about 9.5 inches tall including the amber glass ball. Camera angle makes it look a bit wonky.


----------



## Bm101

NazNomad":ddd0liyt said:


> Blank wall in the kitchen needed some 'wall art'. Just need to figure out how to hang them. Sawtooth hangers maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stick is 25'' long.
> 
> Oh yeah, and it's all pallet wood, sorry.


Tell you what Naz, you have a _*great *_eye for design and execution mate. Well impressed with those especially the last one. Reminds me (a bit weirdly?) of the very hungry caterpillar. All that nostalgia in one go. Fantastic. 
As Custard says, I'll expect to see these shortly in some Brighton Gallery for daft money next time I go to visit my mate down there. You have an unusual talent for picking out a creative idea and producing a result. I might have thought of the first one (I wouldn't) But I never would have thought of doing a triptych. (word of the day) especially the finished lolly stick. Genius. Fair play to you. Clever Bunny.


----------



## thetyreman

I've almost finished a mahogany microphone box, for an expensive microphone I own, I am just thinking about how to finish it off, the interior needs to be able to stop the mic from being able to move around, I was originally going to go with felt but it may need some kind of soft lining under fabric, any advice would be appreciated,

the joinery and finishing is complete, there's a few mistakes though, but I learnt from them all, not 100% happy with it, but I have enough mahogany left to make another box the same size, or a bit bigger.


----------



## ColeyS1

NazNomad":yjj1z8wj said:


> Blank wall in the kitchen needed some 'wall art'. Just need to figure out how to hang them. Sawtooth hangers maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stick is 25'' long.
> 
> Oh yeah, and it's all pallet wood, sorry.


A quick word to say I do like/enjoy all the arty stuff you make !

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## NazNomad

As much as I 'd like to, I can't take credit for the idea. I saw a picture of it 'somewhere'. Probably Pinterest or Etsy.


----------



## custard

thetyreman":2hee22vw said:


> the interior needs to be able to stop the mic from being able to move around, I was originally going to go with felt but it may need some kind of soft lining under fabric, any advice would be appreciated



I did a WIP a few months ago showing how to line a box with suede. Suede is adequate for jewellery boxes. For a microphone I'd make a couple of "bridge" components, bearers that run from front to back and are shaped precisely with curved cut outs to receive the microphone. The trick then is to use the suede from the neck and armpit areas of the pig skin, suede from these areas is very elastic and can be shaped to conform to compound curves. You'll work this inside the cut outs, folding it 6mm down onto the flats. You'll then cover the flats with suede (it will actually be suede stuck with double sided tape to card) to within 3mm of the cut outs, the card is stuck on with Copydex. Read the WIP and it'll all be clear, it's a bit fiddly but it's not particularly difficult, and it makes the job look really professional.


----------



## thetyreman

custard":30q5ylsq said:


> thetyreman":30q5ylsq said:
> 
> 
> 
> the interior needs to be able to stop the mic from being able to move around, I was originally going to go with felt but it may need some kind of soft lining under fabric, any advice would be appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a WIP a few months ago showing how to line a box with suede. Suede is adequate for jewellery boxes. For a microphone I'd make a couple of "bridge" components, bearers that run from front to back and are shaped precisely with curved cut outs to receive the microphone. The trick then is to use the suede from the neck and armpit areas of the pig skin, suede from these areas is very elastic and can be shaped to conform to compound curves. You'll work this inside the cut outs, folding it 6mm down onto the flats. You'll then cover the flats with suede (it will actually be suede stuck with double sided tape to card) to within 3mm of the cut outs, the card is stuck on with Copydex. Read the WIP and it'll all be clear, it's a bit fiddly but it's not particularly difficult, and it makes the job look really professional.
Click to expand...


I do remember that thread, going to have to give it a try once I've made something to hold the mic properly, I've got a few ideas.


----------



## SteveF

that is a stunning box
could you bore a hole in a square section and resaw ?

Steve


----------



## kirso

this is the last and first thing I have ever made using a wood lathe.
I still have to sort out the bottom, but for my first attempt I am more than happy. It didn't smash to bits or fall apart 
It is only about 4 ins high. But its the first go on a wood lathe and using the tools that came with it.


----------



## Bob Graham

Nice job kirso, great feeling isn't it. I'm new to turning too.


----------



## Fitzroy

Having finally finished the floor, started on some workbenches for the walls, I can then move out the old shed! £20 of 89x38 cls timber from b&q (had to pick through half the pile to find 5 straight ones), £5 of coachbolts from Toolstation (so cheap compared to other shops) and spare 18mm Osb for the top, so £25 all in which is nice. 

Used half laps on all the joints and chuffed with how tight all the joints finished up. Used the table saw with a cross cut sled, and finished off with a shoulder plane to get them flat. Much better than my last attempt at half laps on the bandsaw. 





F.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Funny how joints often turn our perfectly when they're on something that really doesn't matter much. :lol:


----------



## thetyreman

here are some better daylight shots of the box, showing you the true colours, I've now made a couple of rests for the mic, it fits nicely.


----------



## El Barto

thetyreman":1j2kdi9q said:


> here are some better daylight shots of the box, showing you the true colours, I've now made a couple of rests for the mic, it fits nicely.



That is ruddy brilliant.


----------



## custard

That's a smashing job Tyreman, hingeing is never easy but it looks like you've got it well sorted.

There are a few ways you might take it up to an even higher level.

-It looks like the screws aren't fully below the countersinks in the hinge. That's unfortunately very common, it's not your fault it's the fault of the hardware. The best solution is to deepen the countersinks, a good quality countersink bit will work on the soft brass you generally find on hinges.

-Fit the hinge with steel screws to cut the thread into the timber, then replace them with brass screws. This keeps the slot in your brass screws nice and clean.

-Lay some fine wet and dry (say about 600 grit) on your bench and polish up the screw heads. While you're at it ease any sharp arises on the ends of the hinge knuckles.

-Aim to have the right relationship between the hinge leaf and the thickness of the timber into which it's morticed. The timber should be at least 3mm thicker, (any less and it's at risk of splitting out), or it should be the _identical_ thickness so that the hinge leaf is totally flush.


----------



## segovia

Latest Project


----------



## n0legs

Walnut offcut segmented bin


----------



## n0legs

:arrow: Kirso, looks good mate =D> 
Keep at it  

:arrow: Thetyreman, love the box =D> 

:arrow: Fitzroy, good simple solid bench. Job done =D>


----------



## OM99

A Box made out of iroko but was stained for the garden seeds and a coat of wax for a bit of shine and another tray out of oak (bottom is oak veneered plywood)

Oli


----------



## whiskywill

segovia":1mqs8dbw said:


> Latest Project



Very nice. What wood did you use for the back and sides?


----------



## NazNomad

You are here...

Well, you're probably not, but I am. :-D


----------



## Cordy

Naz
Wales scroll saw job excellent idea, looks brill =D>  

Must have a go myself; but make Menai Straights more prominent
Just back from a short break twixt Beaumaris and Menai Bridge


----------



## DTR

NazNomad":352p8q34 said:


> You are here...



Ok, you got me. Now it's your turn to hide and I'll count to 100.....


----------



## Phil Pascoe

NazNomad":2au4kpvu said:


> You are here...
> 
> Well, you're probably not, but I am. :-D



Well, I suppose someone has to be.


----------



## NazNomad

Cordy":1bzskx85 said:


> Must have a go myself; but make Menai Straights more prominent


It was a choice of leaving the Straits 'silted up' or throwing Anglesey in the scrap bin along with Bardsey Island and some of the other smaller rocks. (Meh, I'm never going to Bardsey anyway) :-D



DTR":1bzskx85 said:


> Ok, you got me. Now it's your turn to hide and I'll count to 100.....


You're in Essex and you can count to 100? You must be at least as old as I am then? (I was born in Billericay and lived in Laindon until my late 20's) :-D



phil.p":1bzskx85 said:


> Well, I suppose someone has to be.


It was a choice between staying in Essex or moving here. No contest really, have you seen these members from Essex? Dodgy lot. :-D


----------



## DTR

:lol:


----------



## Racers

NazNomad":2yxmr6p8 said:


> I was born in Billericay and lived in Laindon until my late 20's) :-D




Did you...

Had a love affair with Nina
In the back of my Cortina

?

I played that at the weekend!

Pete


----------



## thetyreman

I lined the microphone box with felt and card using the methods posted by custard, instead of suede it's purple felt, but for my next box project I'm definitely trying the suede.


----------



## NazNomad

That's a beautiful box. The purple works perfectly with that wood.


----------



## cowfoot

Racers":dqazbfm7 said:


> NazNomad":dqazbfm7 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was born in Billericay and lived in Laindon until my late 20's) :-D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you...
> 
> Had a love affair with Nina
> In the back of my Cortina
> 
> ?
> 
> I played that at the weekend!
> 
> Pete
Click to expand...


A seasoned up hyena
Could not have been more obscener!


----------



## DTR

Beautiful work tyreman =D>


----------



## OM99

Another box, first hand cut dovetails. I wouldn't make a living from it very slow and there was a few gap, but first a first attempt i am very pleased.

Top and bottom is maple the side were in the scrap bin at the timber yard ( i suspect to be sapele)

Oli


----------



## El Barto

I'm not sure if it's the last thing I made but I thought I'd post some photos of the (pretty much) finished campervan conversion. 

I was up against a pretty strict deadline to finish this and of course it took longer than I intended. The drawers and kitchen cabinets were the most time consuming part. I finished the same day I was due to leave for France for two weeks with the family. It didn't skip a beat the entire time and housed us all pretty comfortably (although living in such a confined space with a toddler got old pretty quickly). 

The cot for the baby was something of a challenge; I didn't want something permanent and also wanted something that could be stowed when she wasn't there. The solution was to cut one of the sides off an old crib in half and when it was time to put her to bed, it could be pegged and wedged in place. It's actually pretty sturdy and took a fair amount of baby/toddler induced abuse.

Aside from that, it's a comfortable camper and ideal for lone trips. All it really needs is some details finished off (around the rooflight etc) and some paint on the kitchen/storage areas. I might also put a log burner in; haven't been out in it in the winter yet but I'm pretty sure that'd be a welcome addition, especially after being in the sea.


----------



## Chris152

This one's bigger than the last one I showed (same colour detail, and pine and oak again, the top's about 80 x 50 cm) and has a second set of cross pieces/ members (not sure what they're called), I thought it looked better this way and would be stronger.




I finally made a reasonable job of planing some difficult grain on the top (thanks for the advice on that one) and struggled planing the thinner set of cross pieces because they were so narrow. 
Maple next!


----------



## ScaredyCat

I have built myself a bench and it's rather solid! 

Legs are 4 inch square, It's 64" long, 21" deep. The top is 38.5" from the floor and 3.5" thick.






Gluing up got difficult quickly, especially with the weight. Luckily the wife was visiting her mother so I did it all in the living room. 
I'm using one of the upstairs bedrooms for my work area as I don't have a garage or anything, dragging 
the top upstairs, alone, was not fun. Then I had to lift it onto the legs! 

It doesn't move at all. 

I've got stretchers on the legs front and back but nothing on the sides, I don't know if I need to add them 
because it's rock solid as it is. I've tried shoving it from the ends and front and it doesn't give at all. Will that 
stiffness wear off resulting in wobble? I haven't glued the stretchers in - they're' through 'tenons', you can see 
the 'mortices' below, two for each leg. The top isn't glued or permanently attached to the legs as yet either. 






Flattening the top is a task and a half, 






Looking for a reasonably priced vice now, perhaps two, one for the end and one for the front. I'd appreciate any suggestions. (Budget is low).
I'm fairly pleased with myself, I had been toying with getting one of those £99 benches made from hardwood but I've seen enough reviews to 
put me off them. One showed the vice ripping off the panel it was attached to. Glad I had a go myself.

Not sure what finish to put on, was thinking Danish oil. Any suggestions?

I'll try to get a half decent 'full picture' tomorrow.


----------



## devonwoody

If my suggestion is not too late, is it possible to make the legs and frame detachable, nice looking job but things could get difficult bringing back downstairs in the future.


----------



## ScaredyCat

I've not glued the top to the legs at all, at the moment it's fully 'portable'


----------



## stuartpaul

I've been nagged by the MIL for quite some time to make her a box so with her 80th approaching I thought I'd make her a couple.

L to R: Sycamore (from their garden) and Iroko, Rosewood (reclaimed) and burr oak, sycamore and american black walnut.

The wife has dibs on the rosewood/oak but the other two will be pressies.

SC02318 (Medium).JPG[/attachment]


----------



## ScaredyCat

stuartpaul":1rz9y451 said:


> I've been nagged by the MIL for quite some time to make her a box so with her 80th approaching I thought I'd make her a couple.
> 
> L to R: Sycamore (from their garden) and Iroko, Rosewood (reclaimed) and burr oak, sycamore and american black walnut.
> 
> The wife has dibs on the rosewood/oak but the other two will be pressies.
> 
> SC02318 (Medium).JPG[/attachment]




Those look really nice indeed. Are the legs fixed in any way other than glue (eg mini mortice & tenon) ? Also I see no hinges, how did you do that?

I'd be interested in the whole build process if you have the time.


----------



## thetyreman

nice bench scardeycat, and nice boxes stuart, interesting design


----------



## nev

ScaredyCat":9jcxn8m6 said:


> stuartpaul":9jcxn8m6 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been nagged by the MIL for quite some time to make her a box so with her 80th approaching I thought I'd make her a couple.
> 
> L to R: Sycamore (from their garden) and Iroko, Rosewood (reclaimed) and burr oak, sycamore and american black walnut.
> 
> The wife has dibs on the rosewood/oak but the other two will be pressies.
> 
> SC02318 (Medium).JPG[/attachment]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those look really nice indeed. Are the legs fixed in any way other than glue (eg mini mortice & tenon) ? Also I see no hinges, how did you do that?
> 
> I'd be interested in the whole build process if you have the time.
Click to expand...


+1 
and preferably in a new thread of its own so we can find it easily in the future


----------



## devonwoody

Nice boxes StuartPaul, I.m eighty but nobody sends me any.


----------



## jw00d

Nice work on those boxes StuartPaul, I'd also be interested in how they're joined at the corners.


----------



## DTR

Nice boxes Stuart =D>


----------



## will1983

I completed this at the weekend for "Her Indoors"
We decorated the conservatory a few weeks back and wanted something to hide a treadmill we keep in there.

The timber is BnQ's finest clear pine (please don't shoot me!). Joinery is all mortise and tenon with captive grooves holding 6mm MDF panels covered in wallpaper.
Finish is mahogany coloured Danish oil, 4 coats.

I am quite pleased with the result, it is certainly better than seeing the treadmill anyway!


----------



## thetyreman

made an acoustic panel for my recording/home studio, it will be going on the ceiling at some point, I experimented with draw bore pins in this case they were really useful, 

for the inner frame it's all lap joints, pinned to the outer frame with nails, the design is my own, I wanted something that looked like Japanese Shojii, I've got three more to make at some point.


----------



## Doris

Santas Workshop. 

3 year long project which I've finally finished. Everything in it scratch built

Never again!



P1160666 by [url=https://flic.kr/p/ZHtPmU]

P1160649 by [url=https://flic.kr/p/YHtv9h]

P1160657 by [url=https://flic.kr/p/YHttP3]

P1160661 by [url=https://flic.kr/p/ZHtKj5]

P1160665 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


----------



## Bob Graham

That's beautiful, congratulations.


----------



## ColeyS1

Doris":46txdhdf said:


> Santas Workshop.
> 
> 3 year long project which I've finally finished. Everything in it scratch built
> 
> Never again!
> 
> 
> 
> P1160666 by [url=https://flic.kr/p/ZHtPmU]
> 
> P1160649 by [url=https://flic.kr/p/YHtv9h]
> 
> P1160657 by [url=https://flic.kr/p/YHttP3]
> 
> P1160661 by [url=https://flic.kr/p/ZHtKj5]
> 
> P1160665 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


That's absolutely fantastic ! Would have been a great wip to follow.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## Doris

ColeyS1":1gpu6grb said:


> Doris":1gpu6grb said:
> 
> 
> 
> Santas Workshop.
> 
> 3 year long project which I've finally finished. Everything in it scratch built
> 
> Never again!
> 
> 
> 
> P1160666 by [url=https://flic.kr/p/ZHtPmU]
> 
> P1160649 by [url=https://flic.kr/p/YHtv9h]
> 
> P1160657 by [url=https://flic.kr/p/YHttP3]
> 
> P1160661 by [url=https://flic.kr/p/ZHtKj5]
> 
> P1160665 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/
> 
> 
> 
> That's absolutely fantastic ! Would have been a great wip to follow.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks gents.

I'm working on a wip thread atm. There's about 100 photos to upload. So it's taking some time to do

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## devonwoody

Super piece of craftmanship and skill, you must be proud of this one.


----------



## El Barto

That is wonderful!


----------



## Bm101

The more I look the more I notice Doris. That's exquisite. The planes, the binding on the books, the legvice. Blooming Legvice! Dogholes! :shock: The The _tiny_ gold pint mugs. It really is quite exceptional. (My absolute favourite is the Robot.  ) Gave me a big smile. Many thanks for sharing. I'm in absolute awe of your patience and eyesight. 
Hope you're well and well done again. Amazing in the best and true sense of the word. Incredible work. =D> 
Chris

Edit: My Mrs just walked past and loves it too. x (hammer)


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Bowl in sapele (filthy stuff). Inside and endgrain dyed with Morrell's orange dye. The underside finished then hot melt glued to scrap. Fiddes hard wax oil. Ill give it some m/c tomorrow. I was going to curve the sides inwards fromcorner to corner, but I'd have had to use the freestanding rest, which is impractical at the moment. Lopping the corners allowed me to work from just outboard of the bed. Done for tomorrow night's club TOTY competition - anything decorated.


----------



## monkeybiter

I like that, my sort of thing; useful too, change bowl or key bowl perhaps?
I do like a smooth bottom when appropriate, I usually resort to an opening that I can grip directly with taped jaws. Did you have any difficulty removing hot glue residue?


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Yes - a "life bowl" - it'd be good for that. The wooden mounting disc was faceplate mounted and stuck to the other side first, then I finished the bottom to 240 grit, marked it with several concentric circles so it could be centred (because of the design it would have looked horrible if uneven) and stuck in three places with 2" lines of hot melt. I cut through the hot melt as best I could without taking chances then softened it with isopropyl and just rubbed it gently until it peeled off. I didn't polish it first, as for one I didn't want to take the chance on the adhesion and for two I suspected slight damage and therefore subsequent refinishing - this transpired to be unnecessary, a gentle steaming and a brief rub with 240 was enough. It looks as if there are scratches or tears across the bottom, but they're tricks of the light. The bottom is about 4mm or 5mm hollow to try to avoid its rocking, it's about 14" across, so maybe a good example of why a chuck isn't an absolute necessity (I do have one).


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Wet asss and no fish. 
Unplaced.


----------



## custard

phil.p":enb0r6cv said:


> Bowl in sapele (filthy stuff).



Nice job

=D>


----------



## xy mosian

Doris, that workshop is great. I don't know how you kept the momentum for three years, I would have forgotten I started it. Well done.
Phil, it took me a while to see the shape of the bottom, the dry one that is. I like the non fruit bowl shape, something a little different.

Well done both.
xy


----------



## stuartpaul

monkeybiter":3fq018md said:


> ....... I do like a smooth bottom when appropriate, ......


Indeed!  

Nice design Phil, - I quite like that.


----------



## Doris

xy mosian":1we9dm3v said:


> Doris, that workshop is great. I don't know how you kept the momentum for three years, I would have forgotten I started it. Well done.




Thanks

It went up and down from the loft to work on around august to November time. But this year I did most of the work on it to finish it off. I would get so far with it and then get bored of it so would put it back in the loft for another year in the past. 


Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## AndyT

This was a nice simple project to keep my hand in. 

It's a nailed together box. My source for the design idea was a series of three YT videos by Treebangham - https://youtu.be/bbeDvPNFbdI . He got the idea from a magazine article by Toshio Odate here 
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=vPY ... e&q&f=true - and it's also in Odate's book on Japanese tools. 

The design is a traditional Japanese toolbox. Construction is just by nailing. I did buy nice decorative nails as discussed here - https://blog.lostartpress.com/2015/07/3 ... available/ - made in France, sold in Oxford. For the battens, I had enough old reclaimed clasp nails. Most of the work was planning the dimensions and planing the wood, which was some lovely old pine, salvaged from the top and bottom of an old Victorian cupboard - the same cupboard whose sides provided the wood for my step-chair. My box is scaled down from the toolbox and is 15" long, with the wood all about half an inch thick. 

The feature that appealed to me the most was the simple idea of the tapered wedge to hold the lid in place - this works really well.


----------



## thetyreman

I love that andyT, how did you finish it? looks nice and shiny


----------



## AndyT

Thanks Tyreman. The finish is Liberon Finishing Oil - two coats so far - and some afternoon sunshine, which really helps bring out the golden tones. 
Liberon seem reluctant to say which "high quality oils" are in it, but according to Phil P's research here post925333.html#p925333 it's tung oil and resins.


----------



## NazNomad

It has a steel spring and three small steel pins... the rest is wood.

It's 'RAF' but it works.

[youtube]iNAuQhrEhp0[/youtube]

... and the flywheel is pished, I think the axle wasn't glued in straight. :-D


----------



## monkeybiter

Nice toolbox, a couple of slots with nails passing through could make the wedge captive, or is it already.


----------



## AndyT

That's a good idea! It's loose at the moment but stays nice and tight in use as it's bevelled in the thickness as well as the length.


----------



## MattRoberts

Hah, that's great Naz, and the sound is quite therapeutic!


----------



## NazNomad

MattRoberts":2b8equdv said:


> Hah, that's great Naz, and the sound is quite therapeutic!



It is when you can get far enough away from the compressor that's screaming its nads off in the garage. :-D


----------



## MarkDennehy

Finished up a few very quickly made bandsaw boxes for an xmas bazaar being held at my son's school for fundraising. The oak ones were a total disaster, the ebonising went badly wrong and they had to be scrapped:






But some of the rest turned out okay, considering they were all made in a week from scraps and ends of boards that had been lying around getting underfoot:


----------



## El Barto




----------



## custard

El Barto":1ym6a39r said:


>



I really like that downward slope to the arm, no good for coffee resting but I guess it's super comfortable and it adds a lot of drama to the design.

=D>


----------



## El Barto

custard":aal22pzt said:


> El Barto":aal22pzt said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like that downward slope to the arm, no good for coffee resting but I guess it's super comfortable and it adds a lot of drama to the design.
> 
> =D>
Click to expand...


Thanks Custard! Once I began fitting the arm to the spindles I actually wasn't too keen on the slope and angle, but by then it was far too late. Ha ha. But overall I'm really pleased with how it came out.


----------



## thetyreman

amazing el barto, I see you've been busy!


----------



## custard

Incidentally, one of the things that makes your chair look so contemporary are the "atomic legs". Earlier turners generally put a concave/convex/concave profile on their legs (similar to your stretchers), but that clean, single curve on a leg became known as the atomic profile and is one of the design signatures of mid century modern.


----------



## El Barto

custard":1wx4dvle said:


> Incidentally, one of the things that makes your chair look so contemporary are the "atomic legs". Earlier turners generally put a concave/convex/concave profile on their legs (similar to your stretchers), but that clean, single curve on a leg became known as the atomic profile and is one of the design signatures of mid century modern.



Yes I was pleased that James (Mursell @ The Windsor Workshop) has chosen to go with legs like this in his design as opposed to a more traditional Windsor leg. His design also used a “splat” as back support which I decided to lose in place of all spindles. It does leave a bit of a gap at the lower back but I think it looks a bit cleaner.


----------



## Alexam

Just finished off these 5 bandsaw boxes. The taller one I call the 'Penny Tower' as the five drawer handles are made with the old pennies (1d) and there is a secret drawer that has an old silver sixpence as the handle.






Malcolm


----------



## MarkDennehy

Ha! That's a nice idea for a pull Alex - how do you stop discolouration over time, epoxy coating?


----------



## ro

El Barto":15iu5h4r said:


>


 Wowser! That's one good looking chair. Like Custard, I really like the downward arm. What's it like to sit in?


----------



## El Barto

ro":3qtuyovh said:


> El Barto":3qtuyovh said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wowser! That's one good looking chair. Like Custard, I really like the downward arm. What's it like to sit in?
Click to expand...


Thanks! It's good to sit in, not uncomfortable but you can find yourself missing the lower back support that the original has (though maybe you only notice that once you've sat in both). It's much bigger than it looked on the website and probably than it looks here. I think if I were to do it again I might make it slightly narrower.


----------



## devonwoody

Alexam":1ua5u3n1 said:


> Just finished off these 5 bandsaw boxes. The taller one I call the 'Penny Tower' as the five drawer handles are made with the old pennies (1d) and there is a secret drawer that has an old silver sixpence as the handle.
> 
> 
> Malcolm



Very Nice I like all boxes.


----------



## devonwoody

El Barto":2czz5etm said:


>





Good looking chair and other chair as well.


----------



## Alexam

MarkDennehy":1wbcispg said:


> Ha! That's a nice idea for a pull Alex - how do you stop discolouration over time, epoxy coating?







After polishing, I cover with top hard-coat of clear nail varnish as the little brushes in that are very easy to use.
Malcolm


----------



## Doris

Tree of Life hand mirror I made for a friend of mine for Christmas.


----------



## monkeybiter

That's nice, I always liked the tree of life that you carved before, from Sapele I think.


----------



## Hornbeam

Completed last months elm wall cabinet. Lovely green stripe through it.
Cant get photos to rotate 
ian


----------



## tony_s

Recently finished console table


----------



## devonwoody

Hornbeam":3deluv76 said:


> Completed last months elm wall cabinet. Lovely green stripe through it.
> Cant get photos to rotate
> ian




Very nice , and I rotated it for you.


----------



## Doris

monkeybiter":3hu8vb8m said:


> That's nice, I always liked the tree of life that you carved before, from Sapele I think.



Thanks. Its a shame its current owner of the sapele one I made previously (actually I think it was cedar) doesn't. 

Am really tempted to buy it back to be honest. lol


----------



## DTR

Hornbeam":3b9pnbf5 said:


> Completed last months elm wall cabinet. Lovely green stripe through it.
> Cant get photos to rotate
> ian



I love the bookmatching! =D> 



tony_s":3b9pnbf5 said:


> Recently finished console table



Very nice =D>


----------



## Chris152

A side table with maple top and sweet chestnut sides. I'm really pleased with it, though - in spite of loads of helpful advice from the forum - the finish on the top isn't as good as it should have been. I applied the shellac sanding sealer with a rag to the underside but was so slow/ it was so fast drying that when I went back to get the bits I missed, previous bits were tacky and it spoiled a little - so I applied to the top with a (cheap) brush and it left visible traces, just about (annoyingly) visible with the wax applied. Also, it was once the wax was on that, with a bright artificial light I could see the little squiggles that a ROS can make if you're not careful (which I found out about after!). Next time I'll use a decent brush and use better extraction on the sander and Abranet to see if that gives a better finish. Thanks for all the advice I got along the way in making this one.


----------



## cowfoot

Some brilliant work on here lately.


----------



## Hornbeam

I love the bookmatching! =D> 

Thanks.
It was all 4mm bandsawn veneer cut from a piece of 4 inch square elm I salvaged from some industrial stillages
Ian


----------



## woodbrains

Chris152":2tf8mwgs said:


> A side table with maple top and sweet chestnut sides. I'm really pleased with it, though - in spite of loads of helpful advice from the forum - the finish on the top isn't as good as it should have been. I applied the shellac sanding sealer with a rag to the underside but was so slow/ it was so fast drying that when I went back to get the bits I missed, previous bits were tacky and it spoiled a little - so I applied to the top with a (cheap) brush and it left visible traces, just about (annoyingly) visible with the wax applied. Also, it was once the wax was on that, with a bright artificial light I could see the little squiggles that a ROS can make if you're not careful (which I found out about after!). Next time I'll use a decent brush and use better extraction on the sander and Abranet to see if that gives a better finish. Thanks for all the advice I got along the way in making this one.



Hello,

Gerrit Rietveld is alive and well! 

Don't worry about the sanding sealer job, you get used to getting it on fast, try a white nylon paintbrush like those made by Wooster. They are great. But remember, it is designed to be sanded, so any imperfections go away. Put on a couple of coats before sanding, if you are unsure, and use P240 stearated paper lightly. Then put on your wax or topcoat of whatever is compatible. I would hand sand at this point, though. 

Mike.


----------



## Chris152

woodbrains":3572n37h said:


> Gerrit Rietveld is alive and well!



I love the honesty and simplicity of his work, and of de Stijl generally - not just the furniture but the architecture and the painting. That said, I really want to develop it my own way, but at the moment just learning to work with wood is hard enough! I also like the work of the Russian Constructivists and I've done some writing on Kandinsky, but that's going to have to wait a while til it finds its way into what I make. But that's part of the plan. 

I wondered about doing a second coat of sealer but thought I might just make it worse - I might practice on some scrap boards before I try again. That said, the combination of sealer and wax I was advised on had precisely the look I wanted, except for my errors. Is this the kind of brush you meant? 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wooster-Brush- ... aint+brush
The one I was using cost £1.25, which is pretty silly of me given the time I spent trying to get the wood looking right. 

Cheers

Chris


----------



## MikeG.

Chris152":2sn1r7fb said:


> .........



Ah, right. NOW I understand........and can apologise for not understanding in another thread where you asked about the strength of this. 

Not my thing at all, but I'm pleased it worked out well for you.


----------



## thetyreman

here's my latest piece, another TV Cabinet, american white oak top scraped and oiled with tung oil, and the base is pine painted with eggshell oil paint, it's made to measure the space, it may look the same as the last one I made but it's actually quite different dimensions, the whole build took about 10 days, happy with how it turned out although I'm a bit knackered now.


----------



## woodbrains

Hello,

Yes, the silver tip are the ones I use.

Russian Constructivism was something I liked many years ago , Naum Gabo was who I really liked amongst others who I forget now. I'll have to rekindle that interest again, thanks for reminding me.

Mike.


----------



## Chris152

MikeG - your advice made me think hard about the strength of the table and I altered the design to include the second layer of cross members to begin to deal with it - and tbh I think I prefer it this way. I'm sure it's still not strong but it's got to be better than it was. I really appreciate your comments, you can't possibly apologise! And thanks. C


----------



## Chris152

woodbrains":agy7gpbl said:


> Hello,
> 
> Yes, the silver tip are the ones I use.
> 
> Russian Constructivism was something I liked many years ago , Naum Gabo was who I really liked amongst others who I forget now. I'll have to rekindle that interest again, thanks for reminding me.
> 
> Mike.


Thanks Mike - they're in the basket! If you get a chance, maybe take another look at Rodchenko and El Lissitzky - they're the ones whose sculptural works I'd like to explore a bit through wood. Great stuff! C


----------



## MarkDennehy

Finished one of Richard Maguire's tables: 






Now with added stegasaur!






Build notes : http://www.stochasticgeometry.ie/catego ... ?order=asc


----------



## MattRoberts

Looks ace Mark - did the ebonising come out how you wanted?


----------



## MarkDennehy

It did; it effectively looks like a black background that someone's drawn the grain on with an oak-coloured mechanical pencil. I would have liked longer to work on the finishing, but it was a gift for someone in work and because of how holidays worked out this year, today was my last day in the office so it was either call it done or come into work to drop it off and I didn't want to do that


----------



## El Barto

thetyreman":1ft101dq said:


> here's my latest piece, another TV Cabinet, american white oak top scraped and oiled with tung oil, and the base is pine painted with eggshell oil paint, it's made to measure the space, it may look the same as the last one I made but it's actually quite different dimensions, the whole build took about 10 days, happy with how it turned out although I'm a bit knackered now.



Very nice!


----------



## busob

Hi All.
This is my first post and I wish to say hello.
I am power electronics engineer and just start with woodworking. I am reading this forum for over a year now and during this year I did some small and bigger projects (Paul Sellers bench, saw vice, some workshop cabinets etc.). 
I wish to show you my last project.
This are cutting boards for Christmas gifts. I made them from oak. It's 23mm calibrated oak I bought from British Hardwoods. 
Boards are made with hand tools only, as I am learning using hand tools. 
Finished with "Chestnut Food Safe Oil" mineral oil.


----------



## tony_s

Very nice cutting boards busob; particularly like the rounded one in the middle


----------



## giantbeat

not sure if it was the last thing i made but certainly the last thing i dispatched.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Bandsaw box for necklaces (or keys I guess) made from a walnut offcut, some brass and pewter hardware and some felt. 
Didn’t turn out too badly.


----------



## fiveeyes

nice box, Mark


----------



## ScaredyCat

Some beeswax polish, some beeswax finish and a pencil case...


----------



## paulrockliffe

Made a picture frame for part of my Wife's present. Pretty pleased with the mitres , they're not perfect, but close. But first attempt and used a combination square without the ruler in it to convert my shooting board to 45 degrees so wasn't really set up for a perfect job. 



20171224_070459 by Paul Rockliffe, on Flickr

Needs a quick sand and finishing later today.


----------



## ScaredyCat

Better get a move on, not long left until it needs wrapping up.


----------



## paulrockliffe

I've just put two coats of shellac on and waxed it, and just need to temporarily fix the picture in with a couple of pins then it's done until I can buy a piece of glass.


----------



## Steve Maskery

Crimbo pressie for a musical friend who is coming over this evening. Finished this morning! Phew!
















They are ripple sycamore and ebony, with stainless steel flanges. Many, many thanks to custard and Pete for your generosity.

The bookends should have been an inch taller, but I cocked up the dovetails. I wasn't happy with them so I cut them off and dominoed instead. Better a good dom than a poor DT, I reckon.

The sycamore is lacquered, but it's a bit shiny, I might tone it down a bit when it is properly hard. The ebony is just burnished. I did lacquer that too, but it looked horrible, so I stripped it all off.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Glad to know someone else only finished theirs this morning... the lacquer is drying on a few of mine right now


----------



## Racers

Very nice Steve.

Pete


----------



## MarkDennehy

Poplar wall cupboard with perspex front panel. Pinned mortice&tenon front door, dovetailed carcass, shiplapped back boards, cut nails.















Ash and Sapele desktop bookshelf.










Irish Yew truncheon (done by someone else, I don’t have a lathe) and walnut presentation plate:






And finally, walnut bandsaw boxes with chocolate…


----------



## bennymk

Lovely work lads, very inspiring..


----------



## custard

Steve Maskery":2oaiplm0 said:


> Crimbo pressie for a musical friend who is coming over this evening.



Blimey, that's clever! I thought you were going to inlay the musical notes, but that's way more special.


----------



## custard

MarkDennehy":1bclxjx3 said:


> Poplar wall cupboard with perspex front panel. Pinned mortice&tenon front door, dovetailed carcass, shiplapped back boards, cut nails.
> Ash and Sapele desktop bookshelf.
> Irish Yew truncheon (done by someone else, I don’t have a lathe) and walnut presentation plate:
> And finally, walnut bandsaw boxes with chocolate…



Mark, you must share the secret of your productivity, completed projects are just flying out of your workshop. Great stuff!


----------



## MarkDennehy

custard":1bpkzhjt said:


> MarkDennehy":1bpkzhjt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Poplar wall cupboard with perspex front panel. Pinned mortice&tenon front door, dovetailed carcass, shiplapped back boards, cut nails.
> Ash and Sapele desktop bookshelf.
> Irish Yew truncheon (done by someone else, I don’t have a lathe) and walnut presentation plate:
> And finally, walnut bandsaw boxes with chocolate…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark, you must share the secret of your productivity, completed projects are just flying out of your workshop. Great stuff!
Click to expand...

Thanks Custard  The secret is my wife was doing the cooking and watching junior for a few days while I basically ignored everything else and lived in the shed...


----------



## Steve Maskery

custard":nu7i8huj said:


> Steve Maskery":nu7i8huj said:
> 
> 
> 
> Crimbo pressie for a musical friend who is coming over this evening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blimey, that's clever! I thought you were going to inlay the musical notes, but that's way more special.
Click to expand...


Thanks chaps. The Notes are pinned in place. Kitchen bamboo skewers are exactly 3mm in diameter, apparently.


----------



## cgarry

2 Wood Whisperer style jewellery boxes for my god-daughters. Made from Walnut and whatever this wood is http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/yet-another-wood-id-t109330.html.










I took my time making these and throughly enjoyed the process. As ever it is great to actually finish a project!

Cheers,


----------



## NazNomad

Wow, they are lovely boxes.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Finally got my home made router plane to a useable condition (still have some bits which I’d like to improve).

The blades are Veritas and the body is an antique Lignum Vitae lawn bowls ball with Boxwood handles and mostly brass hardware.
















Got a bunch of photos during the making so could do a WIP of it if anyone was interested


----------



## marcros

sexy!


----------



## ScaredyCat

Sawdust=manglitter":2ldbp8qj said:


> Finally got my home made router plane to a useable condition (still have some bits which I’d like to improve).
> 
> The blades are Veritas and the body is an antique Lignum Vitae lawn bowls ball with Boxwood handles and mostly brass hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a bunch of photos during the making so could do a WIP of it if anyone was interested



Oh very nice indeed. Would love to see the other pictures...


----------



## John15

Very nice Sawdust

John


----------



## thetyreman

I made an oak sliding box in between christmas/new year, this was a gift for my brother, I used some of custards quartersawn oak for the base, the rest is american white oak, it was really appreciated.


----------



## Bm101

Sawdust=manglitter":1wuo7lqr said:


> Finally got my home made router plane to a useable condition (still have some bits which I’d like to improve).
> 
> The blades are Veritas and the body is an antique Lignum Vitae lawn bowls ball with Boxwood handles and mostly brass hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a bunch of photos during the making so could do a WIP of it if anyone was interested



Ohhhh, come on. That's a beautiful bit of work. I _love_ a bit of tool making. Deserves a WIP, I'd bet I'm not alone in expressing an interest. =D> =D> =D> 

Some lovely stuff on here lately.
Two (well three) beautifully made but very different boxes on the last two pages alone. Very nice. I'n the middle of a load of building work here and I have shed time envy.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Add me to the wants-to-read-a-WIP Sawdust, that's a shiny shiny piece of work


----------



## ro

MarkDennehy":1y07msne said:


> Add me to the wants-to-read-a-WIP Sawdust, that's a shiny shiny piece of work


Me too. That’s very very pretty...


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

I’ve started the WIP here if anyone’s interested...

the-keeper-router-plane-wip-t109785.html


----------



## custard

I take my hat off to you, Lignum is a phenomenally difficult timber to work, so shaping it as precisely as that is quite an achievement!

=D>


----------



## NazNomad

Not even in the same league as that router plane above, but...








SPOILER: https://s20.postimg.org/3pv0w59a5/100_0500.jpg


----------



## DTR

Sawdust and tyreman - Bravo! Beautiful work =D> =D>


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

NazNomad":38ehlhoq said:


> SPOILER: https://s20.postimg.org/3pv0w59a5/100_0500.jpg



Now that is a genius present for any woodworker!


----------



## devonwoody

thetyreman":2zi79sop said:


> I made an oak sliding box in between christmas/new year, this was a gift for my brother, I used some of custards quartersawn oak for the base, the rest is american white oak, it was really appreciated.



I think that is a lovely reliquary . !


----------



## monkeybiter

Sawdust=manglitter":1s6moul1 said:


> NazNomad":1s6moul1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> SPOILER: https://s20.postimg.org/3pv0w59a5/100_0500.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that is a genius present for any woodworker!
Click to expand...


And there was me going to ask about the angle of the iron...  :lol:


----------



## Bm101

NazNomad":3h9mbdud said:


> Not even in the same league as that router plane above, but...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SPOILER: https://s20.postimg.org/3pv0w59a5/100_0500.jpg



I dunnooooo Naz..... I reckon I know which one would get used more down my shed.


----------



## fiveeyes

Sawdust...just beautiful..I just hope to have a router some day..


----------



## El Barto

I wanted a low/wide front knob for my 5 1/2 and having only turned spindles on the lathe before I decided to have a bash at making one myself. I had a lump of Leadwood kindly given to me by Custard which was perfect - it came out pretty well in the end and was definitely a useful exercise in learning more about turning.


----------



## Dokkodo

Bit of a mad, arty experiment. Huge end grain yew bowl, still a couple of coats to go before it'll be completely even.

Note the captive bit of oak, wonder how old that is!


----------



## NazNomad

That's an amazing piece of wood. Love the Oak inclusion.


----------



## thetyreman

Dokkodo":3m3mxsl0 said:


> Bit of a mad, arty experiment. Huge end grain yew bowl, still a couple of coats to go before it'll be completely even.
> 
> Note the captive bit of oak, wonder how old that is!



that would make an amazing eccentric sink in a bathroom.


----------



## Dokkodo

thetyreman":1q23olmy said:


> that would make an amazing eccentric sink in a bathroom.



youre the second person to say that. this ones a bit of an odd shape but I will bear that in mind, ive got another chunk from the same trunk.


----------



## ScaredyCat

Ok, so not up to all your standards but I did make something that's going to be used (as a firewood store in living room)  I haven't permamently affixed the top yet as I'm unsure as to the best way to do it. Any assistance with that greatly appreciated.


----------



## Geoff_S

ScaredyCat":9vkh7w9q said:


> Ok, so not up to all your standards but I did make something that's going to be used (as a firewood store in living room)  I haven't permamently affixed the top yet as I'm unsure as to the best way to do it. Any assistance with that greatly appreciated.



Contact adhesive should do it.


----------



## MattRoberts

ScaredyCat":16ryztfb said:


> Ok, so not up to all your standards but I did make something that's going to be used (as a firewood store in living room)  I haven't permamently affixed the top yet as I'm unsure as to the best way to do it. Any assistance with that greatly appreciated.



Dowel & glue along the centre, leaving the edges floating to allow for expansion. Looks great by the way, nice one


----------



## 8squared

Nothing too exciting as i'm not very creative... i try and think of something nice to make but struggle so i usually mess about and make things like these...


Made from pine i wanted to try slightly burning it but don't have a torch so used the burners on the cooker... didn't work too well.







A scrap piece of maple i was squaring up when i thought it was the right size to make this, walnut round the edge.







I have loads of 12" 5"x1" boards left over... after seeing the picture online i thought it would be good to have on a kitchen clock as we don't yet have one so i got to making one.


----------



## Steliz

This is the last (and first) thing I made using some quality hardwood.
Also, this is my first attempt at mortise joints.
Also, since making this I have discovered the 'slope'!


----------



## Bm101

El Barto":2od6e1gn said:


> I wanted a low/wide front knob for my 5 1/2 and having only turned spindles on the lathe before I decided to have a bash at making one myself. I had a lump of Leadwood kindly given to me by Custard which was perfect - it came out pretty well in the end and was definitely a useful exercise in learning more about turning.



That's an interesting shape for the front knob Bart and I mean that in a positive way of course. Do you find it affects how you use the plane?


----------



## El Barto

Bm101":21l01n52 said:


> El Barto":21l01n52 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a low/wide front knob for my 5 1/2 and having only turned spindles on the lathe before I decided to have a bash at making one myself. I had a lump of Leadwood kindly given to me by Custard which was perfect - it came out pretty well in the end and was definitely a useful exercise in learning more about turning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's an interesting shape for the front knob Bart and I mean that in a positive way of course. Do you find it affects how you use the plane?
Click to expand...


Yes I find it more comfortable but I can’t exactly pinpoint why. I first came across the low front knob from watching David Charlesworth’s DVD’s and it just seems to be a more practical and ergonomic shape, at least for me. It’s also not hugely different from holding the edge/body of the plane for finer work where you use your fingers as a fence. David could probably articulate better than me its merits, if he believes it has any of course! I also really like the way it looks.


----------



## Penny

Sort of 'made'. More like 'caused to happen':

http://www.dailyrecord.co.uk/news/i...stmas-present-11757724#ICID=sharebar_facebook


----------



## nev

Penny":29mpmke9 said:


> Sort of 'made'. More like 'caused to happen':
> 
> http://www.dailyrecord.co.uk/news/i...stmas-present-11757724#ICID=sharebar_facebook


 =D> =D> =D>


----------



## Bm101

Cheers Bart. It seems an intuitive shape which is what made me wonder. Thanks for the answer. Much appreciated!


----------



## StraightOffTheArk

Penny":27jc09tm said:


> Sort of 'made'. More like 'caused to happen':
> 
> http://www.dailyrecord.co.uk/news/i...stmas-present-11757724#ICID=sharebar_facebook



It's certainly a good cause - well done - and it has me feeling slightly guilty and looking at my feet when thinking "What have I given back to society". Your good deed has been a timely reminder, I shall investigate local possibilities!

Cheers,

Carl


----------



## El Barto

Bm101":1lzh32ty said:


> Cheers Bart. It seems an intuitive shape which is what made me wonder. Thanks for the answer. Much appreciated!



Here's a better photo of it if you're interested:


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Little "box" for tomorrow's club TOTY. TruOiled, not yet waxed. About 4" across, ash, oak, laburnum and padauk (scraps). Ash dyed with Blackfriars Spanish Mahogany on the outside red spirit dye and Rustin's P.C. on the inside. Inside turned first. The lid was a bit of practice and experimentation for lids on another ongoing project.

It got a first.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Faux-17th century joined chest in oak. Drawbored mortice-and-tenon joinery bar the floorboards which were tongue-and-grooved and nailed on. Some simple decorative carving elements on the rails. Did use power tools right at the start for rough cuts, and the ubiquitous powerdrill, but mostly this is hand tool work. 
















It even meets the spec: baby blankets fit in it.
See, the name is kindof a pun, it's a baby blanket chest 






Build log:
http://www.stochasticgeometry.ie/catego ... ?order=asc


----------



## Cordy

=D> Mark, your Oak Chest is fantastic; you must be well pleased with it


----------



## MarkDennehy

I thought it came out well alright Cordy, thanks


----------



## DTR

I posted in the other thread already, but I really like that chest Mark =D>


----------



## MarkDennehy

The irony is, it's a baby blanket chest for a mate in work and I dropped it off this morning because he and his wife are expecting their first next week...


...or at least they were until she went into labour this morning so now it'll be a fortnight before he gets it so I didn't have to rush after all


----------



## custard

MarkDennehy":58xf3bbb said:


> Faux-17th century joined chest in oak.



What a smashing project, very well done Mark!

=D>


----------



## DTR

I made a set of four* clamps, inspired by Andy T's version of Robert Wearing's clamps. I didn't follow Wearing's drawings to the letter, I just let the wood I had dictate the size.

No WIP photos as they're just a couple of sticks with holes drilled through them! 





I did however use a (very) quick and dirty jig to cut matching tapers on all eight pieces:





* it started as a set of four, but SWMBO has claimed one for herself. Then there were three......


----------



## Beau

That's lovely Mark


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Made a cheap brass bench dog. 

Used these...
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayIS ... spheader=1


----------



## monkeybiter

Nice job, I could see you getting orders.


----------



## MusicMan

Sawdust=manglitter":bgb4lob8 said:


> Made a cheap brass bench dog.



Great idea! I plan to steal it


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

MusicMan":26dzvvcz said:


> Great idea! I plan to steal it



It’s very quick & easy to do, just need a hacksaw, some files and a drill. Its not exactly pretty, but it works perfect! And at a total average cost of £4.47 (not including the scrap of leather) its satisfyingly cheaper than for example the Veritas bench dogs which are £21.58 for a pair at Axi


----------



## thetyreman

made my first picture frame over the last few days, it's one of the projects on woodworking masterclass, it is a present for my brothers birthday, sadly the cat who is called penny passed away recently aged almost 20 years old.

The wood is quartersawn beech, finished with de-waxed shellac as a sanding sealer then tung/turps to pop the grain. I had this professionally printed which is the first time I've done this in over ten years, the photography is my own work, it's nice to see it printed, instead of on a screen, takes me back to film days, definitely want to get more printed now.


----------



## El Barto

Sawdust=manglitter":1a2742bh said:


> Made a cheap brass bench dog.
> 
> Used these...
> http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayIS ... spheader=1



That is absolutely ingenious. =D> =D> =D> I might also steal it...



thetyreman":1a2742bh said:


> I had this professionally printed which is the first time I've done this in over ten years, the photography is my own work, it's nice to see it printed, instead of on a screen, takes me back to film days, definitely want to get more printed now.



Very nice indeed. I always find it surprising how different your own photos look when they're printed, especially larger prints.


----------



## devonwoody

thetyreman":31t19x9m said:


> made my first picture frame over the last few days, it's one of the projects on woodworking masterclass, it is a present for my brothers birthday, sadly the cat who is called penny passed away recently aged almost 20 years old.
> 
> The wood is quartersawn beech, finished with de-waxed shellac as a sanding sealer then tung/turps to pop the grain. I had this professionally printed which is the first time I've done this in over ten years, the photography is my own work, it's nice to see it printed, instead of on a screen, takes me back to film days, definitely want to get more printed now.



Nicely made frame and I admire the mitre joints, what tool or method do you use to make a frame please?


----------



## Chris152

Norway maple, 2 x 14. Turning a rough sawn block of wood into a bowl might just be one of the most satisfying things I've ever done.


----------



## Kev

Thought I would share my latest efforts as never get round to posting pictures and thought was about time I made the effort. 

Had a bit of spare time on my hands so made three stools out of oak for my garden bar! The inspiration for these was very much from an article in fine woodworking by Christian Becksvoort (he of shaker style fame) in relation to the legs. The seat was from some off cuts of full stave 40mm worktop I had lying around the workshop which I shaped using a carving disc, hand tools and lots of sanding. Never done this before and turned out relatively well. The stools are quite tall and the bar is quite high. 

Anyway see what you think.


----------



## John15

Very attractive Kev. I particularly like the shaped seats.

John


----------



## monkeybiter

They do look well made, well shaped especially.


----------



## Kev

It was a fun project to make. Especially with all the angles, got you thinking a fair bit.


----------



## thetyreman

made myself a tool tote finally! it's going to save me trips in and out of the garage for DIY jobs in the house, and will come in handy.

I used leftoever bits of pine and spruce, it's all wood I found in a skip except the side pieces which is redwood pine and the dowels are maple.


----------



## custard

Kev":18e8s6qn said:


> Thought I would share my latest efforts as never get round to posting pictures and thought was about time I made the effort. Never done this before and turned out relatively well.



Well done Kev. The saddling of the seats must have been hard work in Oak but it looks really professional.

=D>


----------



## custard

thetyreman":31ae3ib3 said:


> made myself a tool tote finally! it's going to save me trips in and out of the garage for DIY jobs in the house, and will come in handy.



Cool design and very useful, that would make an excellent gift item.

=D>


----------



## MikeG.

thetyreman":37h27nf0 said:


> made myself a tool tote finally! it's going to save me trips in and out of the garage for DIY jobs in the house, and will come in handy.
> 
> I used leftoever bits of pine and spruce, it's all wood I found in a skip except the side pieces which is redwood pine and the dowels are maple.



Excellent, well done. 

To save everything just being piled up on top of everything else, how about adding some thin strips lengthways 2 or 3 inches down from the top, and then making a half-length tray to sit on those. This can hold smaller items like chisels and drill bits, screwdrivers, punches etc, and the tray can either be slid along or removed to allow access to the stuff underneath. Mine is very similar to yours, and the tray is the most used thing in it.


----------



## DTR

thetyreman":1170jrxr said:


> made myself a tool tote finally! it's going to save me trips in and out of the garage for DIY jobs in the house, and will come in handy.
> 
> I used leftoever bits of pine and spruce, it's all wood I found in a skip except the side pieces which is redwood pine and the dowels are maple.



Very nice =D> Is the handle loose bar the dowels? If so I could see that being useful for getting bulkier items in or out once you're at the work site. I've got a home-made tote myself and it's been immeasurably useful for doing DIY jobs around the house (yours is much nicer than mine though!)


----------



## thetyreman

DTR":d91429zw said:


> thetyreman":d91429zw said:
> 
> 
> 
> made myself a tool tote finally! it's going to save me trips in and out of the garage for DIY jobs in the house, and will come in handy.
> 
> I used leftoever bits of pine and spruce, it's all wood I found in a skip except the side pieces which is redwood pine and the dowels are maple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice =D> Is the handle loose bar the dowels? If so I could see that being useful for getting bulkier items in or out once you're at the work site. I've got a home-made tote myself and it's been immeasurably useful for doing DIY jobs around the house (yours is much nicer than mine though!)
Click to expand...


thanks, yes the handle is just held in with compression from the tapered dowels once you tap them it's not moving, I'm sure it's going to get a lot of use and will very likely outlast me


----------



## MikeG.

I tell you what you'll find really useful, and it is simply an inadvertent feature of the design.........the two flat tops to the end pieces. I guarantee that at some stage you'll find yourself sawing or drilling a piece of wood resting across the two tops, like a baby topless saw horse. I've used mine hundreds of times like that, when going to fetch a saw horse just isn't worth the effort.


----------



## AES

Very nice tool tote thetyreman, thanks for posting. A couple of genuine Qs if I may:

I too am thinking of something like very much that (for the same reason as you made yours, and the Stanley "cloth" version is V expensive here, and the UK Aldi version hasn't appeared here).

So I've looked at a couple of designs and one came up where the carry handle was placed slant-wise across the box - i.e. looking down from on top, the handle was fitted to the back on one end and to the front on the other. The designer said this was a good idea 'cos it stopped bigger items getting caught against the handle when removing from the box. This makes little or no sense to me, but have you had any problems (so far) with getting long thin items out/getting caught on the handle?

Also, I wonder if it would be a good idea to lightly tack/glue a thin, not very wide piece of thin ply across one (or both) ends, where the sides extend beyond the ends (+ a "floor" of course)? This/these would be to hold small items such as drill bit/s, small electrical screwdriver, etc. Any thoughts?

Nice job and nice pics, thanks for posting.

AES


----------



## thetyreman

AES":2yy4lfc4 said:


> Very nice tool tote thetyreman, thanks for posting. A couple of genuine Qs if I may:
> 
> I too am thinking of something like very much that (for the same reason as you made yours, and the Stanley "cloth" version is V expensive here, and the UK Aldi version hasn't appeared here).
> 
> So I've looked at a couple of designs and one came up where the carry handle was placed slant-wise across the box - i.e. looking down from on top, the handle was fitted to the back on one end and to the front on the other. The designer said this was a good idea 'cos it stopped bigger items getting caught against the handle when removing from the box. This makes little or no sense to me, but have you had any problems (so far) with getting long thin items out/getting caught on the handle?
> 
> Also, I wonder if it would be a good idea to lightly tack/glue a thin, not very wide piece of thin ply across one (or both) ends, where the sides extend beyond the ends (+ a "floor" of course)? This/these would be to hold small items such as drill bit/s, small electrical screwdriver, etc. Any thoughts?
> 
> Nice job and nice pics, thanks for posting.
> 
> AES



thanks AES, 

The design is by Paul Sellers, luckily one of the free projects on woodworkingmasterclass.com you should be able to follow along on there.

https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/carrying-tote-project-info/

I find the design is well thought out, you won't have problems with anything catching with the handle, you could always make the side pieces higher but then it might look a bit odd proportionally, I think it's good how it is.

secondly yes you could easily put either ply or solid wood into the ends and customise it as much as you wanted, or drill holes in the sides for screwdrivers e.t.c, no reason why not, I've seen a few other examples on the website with this and it looked good, although you may find that you won't need it once you have made it, best to make it first then see.


----------



## AES

OK thetyreman, all understood, thanks (I must say the idea I saw about the handle going "back to front "across" the box width did seem a bit "strange"!) ;-)

AES


----------



## Chris152

The uprights were supposed to be for a lean-to roof thing but a few years passed and I never completed it, so I was nagged into doing this last week, just finished it yesterday. Gets them away from the computer screens, and my son commented yesterday as we were playing that the trees were starting to turn green.




Not the finest bit of joinery but it works and everyone's happy...


----------



## fiveeyes

Your son's comment does give one pause...and hope. Well done.


----------



## El Barto

thetyreman":25fkcgig said:


> made myself a tool tote finally! it's going to save me trips in and out of the garage for DIY jobs in the house, and will come in handy.
> 
> I used leftoever bits of pine and spruce, it's all wood I found in a skip except the side pieces which is redwood pine and the dowels are maple.



Man that is great. I can't put my finger on why exactly it works so well... it's got something very nostalgic about it, I think from the more narrow and tall shape compared to other similar boxes. Very good.


----------



## El Barto

It isn't technically finished yet but this weekend I knocked up an oak sawbench (based on Chris Schwarz's plans in The Anarchist's Design Book) which I'm going to use as a stool/footstool.

I hadn't turned legs before so I'm pleased that they all look somewhat similar...! Happy with how it's turning out generally.


----------



## Dalboy

This is the last thing I made.


----------



## Dandan

Mrs Dandan bought some cheap metal brackets to encourage me to make some bookshelves for the spare room.
Metal brackets? That won't do at all...


----------



## Bm101

El Barto":4efqremi said:


>



I like the proportions on that very much. I like the appropriation as a footstool or similar. Made me wonder about a couple of ideas.


----------



## El Barto

Bm101":21icgwlz said:


> El Barto":21icgwlz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the proportions on that very much. I like the appropriation as a footstool or similar. Made me wonder about a couple of ideas.
Click to expand...


Thank you! Appreciate it. I always liked the look of the sawbenches from the book, they seem too pretty to be hacked up (although I did add a couple of design elements to make it slightly less basic). 

My favourite thing about it though is how easy it was to make. More than doable in a day (or split over two days to allow for glueing etc).


----------



## Bm101

Post some pics up when finished fella.


----------



## ScaredyCat




----------



## thetyreman

nice idea scaredy cat, the beauty of that is you could customise the size


----------



## whiskywill

ScaredyCat":jni0b6vz said:


>



Nice, but what is it?


----------



## AES

I'm glad you asked whiskywill. Saved me asking!


----------



## ScaredyCat

thetyreman":3furir2r said:


> nice idea scaredy cat, the beauty of that is you could customise the size



I can't claim any credit for the idea, just the execution 



whiskywill":3furir2r said:


> Nice, but what is it?



It's a "Kerfmaker". It allows you to make perfect dados on a table saw. Using the first image for reference, undo the wingnut and slide the top (maple) back, insert the stock that you're making the dado for - ie what'll slot into the dado. Butt it up against the upright on the right. Bring the top pice you slid away into contact with the other side of the stock and do up the wingnut. 

What you'll end up with is the top will extend out the back, over the walnut by the width of the stock. On the lower piece (walnut) you cant see* there's a screw that's sticking out the exact kerf on my blade. The gap between the upright and the maple will match the width of the stock.

So now you line up your piece that you want to cut the dado in with the kerf line on your cross cut sled, place the kerfmaker to the right of that in such a way that the top touches your stock on the left and a stop block to the right. Clamp the stop block so it doesn't move. Remove the kerf maker and make your first cut. Place the kerfmaker back between the stock and stopblock only this time flip the kerfmaker so that the walnut piece next to the stop block. Push the stock up to the left edge of the kerfmaker, remove the kerfmaker and make your second cut. You now have 2 cuts in your stock and if you remove the waste between those two cuts, which can be done but cutting then sliding the stock until complete, with give you a perfect fit. 

This video might make more sense than my ramblings. The one in the video retails for $73 USD if you're feeling flush.

* I'll add a couple more pictures later.


----------



## AES

Cor, clever (but I ain't got a TS)! But I must say, yours looks just as nice (nicer even?) than the Bridge Tools version you linked too, and is certainly much cheaper! AND you can say "I made it myself"


----------



## thetyreman

I thought it was a sliding bevel but made from wood instead


----------



## ScaredyCat

thetyreman":1jvdy5qb said:


> I thought it was a sliding bevel but made from wood instead



Errm, let's say it's a multi tool then


----------



## thetyreman

I made a burger flipper, it's meranti so probably not ideal, another one of paul sellers free projects, I am going to make some more of these as gifts and maybe to sell, 

this piece of meranti has some slight figure in it which isn't easy to capture in the photos, might put a few more layers of tung oil on it to pop the figure a bit more, for now here's some photos.

an enjoyable fun project that doesn't take too long either.


----------



## Tasky

Well, I suppose I ought to post this up since it's just about done, if only to prove that I do occasionally try to make stuff rather than just witter about it and irritate everyone on the forum...  :lol: 







L - 8' 
D - 32" 
H - 40" 
Wt - About 140kg

Eight-foot is probably a bit big for my first project, but I kinda wanted it to make an impact when people walk into the workshop!  (hammer) 

Basic 'Nicholson' style English workbench, based on Paul Sellers construction method. Generic softwood from Creffields, so probably construction grade pine or similar. Design tweaked to my own ideas, so the rear benchtop is a mini version of Sellers' first bench series, with an 8" tool well. Apron corners lopped for aesthetic reasons... and to stop my knees from bashing the bloody corners!






10" wide Record 53 vice is fitted and has nice oak jaw liners attached, so the bench is at least in a semi-usable condition. As you will see, it still needs a touch more smooth-planing on the top, the ends trimming flush, and then finally a sealing finish. 
I had a few mistakes.... I mean, 'learning experiences'... in particular, the wood contracting overnight in the sudden heatwave, splitting along some of the glue-up lines in the top, which is the biggest disappointment.


Of course, having done all this, I simply *had* to fit some bench dogs...


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I found after many years of use that it is better to have a nice soft bit of whitewood for the jaws - it's convenient that they deform sometimes rather than bruise something I've put in it. They are sacrificial after all.


----------



## Doingupthehouse

Looks a nice solid workmanlike bench. =D> Any plans for dog or holdfast holes?

SImon


----------



## Tasky

phil.p":1zafdd5v said:


> it's convenient that they deform sometimes rather than bruise something I've put in it. They are sacrificial after all.


It's just an offcut I had laying around. Wasn't quite 12" either, which is why it underhangs the right hand vice batten a bit. 
But I was planning on lining at least one side with some high quality suede, for the same reason. 



Doingupthehouse":1zafdd5v said:


> Looks a nice solid workmanlike bench. =D> Any plans for dog or holdfast holes?


Wha's wrong with my current bench dogs....?  

Nah, I do have plans for some _actual_ bench dogs... well, one, anyway. I'm debating between a line of pop-up round dogs, or a wind-up square planing stop. I'm currently favouring the latter, as it would be variable in height and I plan on planing some fairly thin woods...


----------



## AES

Looks like a pretty good bench to me Tasky (says he, who doesn't even have a proper wood work bench - yet).

Like the bench dogs too  

For myself I haven't even decided if I'll have holes, or not, or even a vice (or "just" aprons for clamping against) but there's just 1 thing I do know - it will HAVE TO fold down off the ceiling!!!! (Yeah, and back up to the ceiling when not in use - that's the main reason why I'm - still - just thinking about it). I'll get there 1 day.

Meantime, congrats on yours


----------



## Doingupthehouse

Tasky":1lzuwj5e said:


> Nah, I do have plans for some _actual_ bench dogs... well, one, anyway. I'm debating between a line of pop-up round dogs, or a wind-up square planing stop. I'm currently favouring the latter, as it would be variable in height and I plan on planing some fairly thin woods...



Still debating what to do with mine. Will definitely have some form of planing stop, and a few holes for holdfasts in the top and apron, but not sure if I want a row of dog holes or not. Was thinking of maybe getting some Veritas Wonder Dogs or maybe the inset vice.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Before you bore dog holes think whether you want to bolt anything else down, like a drill stand or bench top morticer - you can space the holes and kill two birds with one stone.


----------



## Tasky

AES":1oqstr1n said:


> it will HAVE TO fold down off the ceiling!!!! Yeah, and back up to the ceiling when not in use


Any particular reason? Do you have machines in the way, or something?



Doingupthehouse":1oqstr1n said:


> Still debating what to do with mine. Will definitely have some form of planing stop, and a few holes for holdfasts in the top and apron, but not sure if I want a row of dog holes or not. Was thinking of maybe getting some Veritas Wonder Dogs or maybe the inset vice.


I have a lovely idea for a wind-up 6-8" long planing stop in the left 1' of the bench, although it requires morticing across several boards and my glue-up hasn't been amazing on that part. 
Two or three pop-up dogs dead centre of the boards wouldn't impact the structural integrity anywhere near as much. 



phil.p":1oqstr1n said:


> Before you bore dog holes think whether you want to bolt anything else down, like a drill stand or bench top morticer - you can space the holes and kill two birds with one stone.


Might get a drill stand. That and the possibility of shelves/tool racks is what led to the narrow second top at the back, as it gives me a small base for such things.


----------



## AES

Tasky wrote, QUOTE: Any particular reason? Do you have machines in the way, or something? UNQUOTE:

Not machines exactly, no, but just about "everything else"!!! I'll post a little "plan" one day, but believe me a properly fixed bench is definitely NOT on.


----------



## Buckeye

Finally finished this oak garden bench for my folks. Too many hours and too many mortise and tenons. I could never make a profit on making this if someone asked me to make them one. but I guess being set up for production, better skills and better equipment would help. Anyhow my parents are well chuffed so that is the main thing.


----------



## MarkDennehy

This is what happens when stoopid Americans have their Mothers' Day in May and you forget you did yours in March already...

http://www.stochasticgeometry.ie/2018/0 ... -finish-2/





















American black walnut with maple stringing on poplar feet with walnut stringing. Finish was just two coats of Osmo thin wood wax, nothing fancy. Many thanks to Custard and the others for advice and help with stringing, hadn't tried it before.


----------



## Racers

Some trestles and boards for my sons to play their games on.



Trestles by Racers, on Flickr

Pete


----------



## Rustybin

That reminds me of a table / landscape / diorama thing that my dad made for me to run matchbox cars around when I was less than five years old. I am forty nine now and still remember it and think of hium. I promise you your kids will always remember the love that making something like this for them shows.

(I may have had slightly too much Glenmorangie. So off to bed now all tired and emotional but the point still stands.)


----------



## custard

Buckeye":1o1bpss8 said:


> Finally finished this oak garden bench for my folks.



This one passed me by Buckeye, so belated congratulations! 

Immaculate work, no wonder your folks are delighted. In particular the way you selected the wood for the crest rail so that the grain emphasises the shape is real evidence of both care and quality.

=D>


----------



## Paul200

Buckeye":100myx13 said:


> Finally finished this oak garden bench for my folks.


That's beautiful mate! The kind of work I hope one day I can aspire to.

Paul


----------



## Racers

Rustybin":3gzykrvj said:


> That reminds me of a table / landscape / diorama thing that my dad made for me to run matchbox cars around when I was less than five years old. I am forty nine now and still remember it and think of hium. I promise you your kids will always remember the love that making something like this for them shows.
> 
> (I may have had slightly too much Glenmorangie. So off to bed now all tired and emotional but the point still stands.)



Mine are 23 and 25, they helped with the construction. 
Hopefully they appreciate me, being boys they don’t tell me very often. 

Single parent family myself so I don’t know how these things are supposed to work. 

Pete


----------



## El Barto

Some beautiful stuff on here lately which is nice to see. Here's my latest effort: salad servers as a wedding present for a friend. Taken from an ash tree cut down in the woods above their house. Going for sentiment (and thrift) with this one   

They look a bit grubby in the photo, not sure why :?


----------



## thetyreman

I made a breadboard end chopping board from some bits of meranti from an old door I hacked up, I used oak for the draw bore pins, finished with de-waxed shellac as a sanding sealer, then pure tung oil, the project is one of the ones on woodworking masterclass by sellers, so hopefully I can now use the technique on other things as well, I'd like to make a few more of them.


----------



## thick_mike

Very simple shelf made from walnut to hold my currently playing record sleeve. Finished with walnut oil naturally


----------



## Steliz

Nice shelf and a great choice of music. I had The Rising Suns on just yesterday.


----------



## thick_mike

I’m ashamed to say that I’ve been a fan of Taj Mahal for 30 years, but I have never heard of the Rising Sons! I’ve just had a quick google and I obviously have some homework to do this evening. Many thanks for the tip


----------



## whiskywill

thick_mike":2fiou598 said:


> Very simple shelf made from walnut to hold my currently playing record sleeve. Finished with walnut oil naturally



What is that quaint looking machine with the giant Pontefract cake on it?


----------



## MarkDennehy

Have you never seen a vertical lathe before?


----------



## AES

Bit too thin for a Pontefract cake isn't it? Must have been flattened out a bit


----------



## Racers

thick_mike":2hqron5m said:


> Very simple shelf made from walnut to hold my currently playing record sleeve. Finished with walnut oil naturally



Oooo a 401, nice.

What's the rest of your kit?

Pete


----------



## Moonsafari69

Made from recycled white pine and took me 6 weekends and some nights to build.
Style - European / Paul Sellers design
36” High x 72” Long x 27” Deep
Top is 5” thick
Legs are 5 1/4” x 5 1/2”
Well is 9” wide x 3 1/2” deep
Front vice - Record No 53 with Sapele jaws and suede-leather on the front jaw
End vice - Record No 52 1/2 E with Sapele jaws
Finished with Boiled Linseed Oil


----------



## g7g7g7g7

https://imgur.com/a/YrARp15

Linking to imgur so I don't have to bother cropping or converting files, really quite happy with this bench, It started last year but got sidelined when I needed to move my workshop so glad to finally have the thing finished and in time for good weather as well. 

Made of poplar, I have no idea what the plugs are, the wedges are Beech, Sapele and Maple, just cos I had wee bits kicking about.


----------



## thick_mike

Racers":1pswpg3b said:


> thick_mike":1pswpg3b said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very simple shelf made from walnut to hold my currently playing record sleeve. Finished with walnut oil naturally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oooo a 401, nice.
> 
> What's the rest of your kit?
> 
> Pete
Click to expand...


Big Denon PMA850 behemoth from the 80s, into Zingali Overture 3S speakers...











Too good for my ears really


----------



## thetyreman

Moonsafari69":rpchywbr said:


> Made from recycled white pine and took me 6 weekends and some nights to build.
> Style - European / Paul Sellers design
> 36” High x 72” Long x 27” Deep
> Top is 5” thick
> Legs are 5 1/4” x 5 1/2”
> Well is 9” wide x 3 1/2” deep
> Front vice - Record No 53 with Sapele jaws and suede-leather on the front jaw
> End vice - Record No 52 1/2 E with Sapele jaws
> Finished with Boiled Linseed Oil



very nice bench! I bet that's pretty heavy, especially with not one but two heavyweight vices, great job.


----------



## thick_mike

Moonsafari69":34ufum66 said:


> Made from recycled white pine and took me 6 weekends and some nights to build.
> Style - European / Paul Sellers design
> 36” High x 72” Long x 27” Deep
> Top is 5” thick
> Legs are 5 1/4” x 5 1/2”
> Well is 9” wide x 3 1/2” deep
> Front vice - Record No 53 with Sapele jaws and suede-leather on the front jaw
> End vice - Record No 52 1/2 E with Sapele jaws
> Finished with Boiled Linseed Oil



Very nice =D>


----------



## LancsRick

Love the attention to detail on the vices on that bench. I need to build a new bench soon...


----------



## Doingupthehouse

Moonsafari69":3lsh3opw said:


> Made from recycled white pine and took me 6 weekends and some nights to build.
> Style - European / Paul Sellers design
> 36” High x 72” Long x 27” Deep
> Top is 5” thick
> Legs are 5 1/4” x 5 1/2”
> Well is 9” wide x 3 1/2” deep
> Front vice - Record No 53 with Sapele jaws and suede-leather on the front jaw
> End vice - Record No 52 1/2 E with Sapele jaws
> Finished with Boiled Linseed Oil



=D> Very nice indeed - lots of nice bench builds on here recently! 
You’ve reminded me - I must find some leather to line my vice jaw...

Simon


----------



## MarkDennehy

Fathers day gift. Traditional Japanese toolbox design in Beech, with walnut pegs and key, and a rippled sycamore lid (courtesy of Custard who very kindly gifted me the sycamore!). Danish oil and turpentine finish, with beeswax paste top coat. 
http://www.stochasticgeometry.ie/2018/06/17/balls/

















I'm still at the "I can see all 74 errors" phase, but I do so love that locking peg design for the lid so I'm coping


----------



## Chip shop

I don't really make furniture, but for the people that gave me all those tools that I gave away recently, I made a pair of side tables...


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Not exactly high class joinery -




A nine foot long bench seat, so hopefully assuming I can get up onto it in the first place I will be able to slide along it and work either side of it. I might yet cut it down an inch or two. Made from a nice clean scaffold board a neighbour scrounged for me and 4" x 2"s cut down from 5" x 2"s scrounged from a demolition site. If it doesn't work it's firewood.


----------



## Racers

Holder for the Spong salt and pepper mills.



Salt N Pepper by Racers, on Flickr

Pete


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Need to get in some dovetail practice before making the drawers for a cabinet I’ve been making, so made an over engineered toilet roll holder 

I did learn that the chisels needed to be as sharp as possible as this spalted wood was very soft in areas.











And did a little bit of crude metal bashing by making the brackets from 1mm steel plate


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Pete, I had a pair Salter mills which are the same design. If you prise the little chrome buttons off you can replace the original knobs with nicely turned ones.


----------



## Racers

That's good to know, I had to strip them down when I bought them as they where originally red but some one had painted them green, badly!
Probably need to do them again as its started to chip.

You can find them on eBay for £90-100!

Pete


----------



## Harbo

Storage chest in spalted sycamore and walnut.
Traditional build - mitred M&T’s and raised panels.











Rod


----------



## yetloh

Did you use a knurling tool for that or did you cut it with a v cutter?

Jim


----------



## E-wan

Moonsafari69":s1vgbmvm said:


> Made from recycled white pine and took me 6 weekends and some nights to build.
> Style - European / Paul Sellers design
> 36” High x 72” Long x 27” Deep
> Top is 5” thick
> Legs are 5 1/4” x 5 1/2”
> Well is 9” wide x 3 1/2” deep
> Front vice - Record No 53 with Sapele jaws and suede-leather on the front jaw
> End vice - Record No 52 1/2 E with Sapele jaws
> Finished with Boiled Linseed Oil
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> View attachment 2
> 
> View attachment 3
> 
> View attachment 4
> 
> View attachment 5
> 
> View attachment 6
> 
> View attachment 7
> 
> View attachment 8


Bench looks good, 

I just picked up a similar vice which I am yet to fit. Any tips on how to clean up the vice or fitting a wooden incerts to The jaws would be really appreciated.

Thanks

Ewan

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


----------



## custard

Sawdust=manglitter":tbqkskr9 said:


> made an over engineered toilet roll holder



Better safe than sorry when it comes to water closet matters.  

Seriously, it looks amazing. =D>


----------



## DTR

Sawdust=manglitter":139tcbnc said:


> made an over engineered toilet roll holder



That is by far the best bog roll holder I have ever seen


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Thanks both.

If you notice the slight groove to the top, the OH requested this in order to be able to stand up her phone/ipad! :lol: 

The wood was a relatively short log of spalted birch, only about a foot long and about 8" diameter, originally earmarked as a turning blank, but decided to slice it up last year for a small project. Because of the short length of boards and random soft spots in the spalting it was all thicknessed by hand. It was a good practice piece anyhow


----------



## MarkDennehy

Girl’s doll’s school locker in beech, stained with Crimson Guitars "stunning stains shot" in purple (can you tell), with a top coat of gloss lacquer and a final polish of renaissance wax. 

http://www.stochasticgeometry.ie/2018/06/24/done-5/


----------



## devonwoody

Very decorative, and I like your worktop layout that is a work of art as well.


----------



## MikeJhn

Been on my knees for months it seems making a Gazebo base:






Just need to scribe in the sides and I am done.

Mike


----------



## AES

Now to me, that looks "real classy". =D> =D>


----------



## Boysie

Made a shelf for the kitchen.
All hand tools, starting from rough sawn.
I still need to make some little covers for the screw holes in the brackets.


----------



## custard

Those curved chamfers are very well executed, and the square "countersinks" for the mounting screws aren't easy to cut as neatly as that.

Tidy work =D>


----------



## profchris

Just finished this:






Fuller details in my Projects thread, a-slightly-oddball-guitar-t111602.html


----------



## custard

profchris":xv3k935r said:


> Just finished this:



Having the skill to _play_ such a lovely thing, as well as the skill to actually _make_ it, must be an immensely and enduringly satisfying combination.


----------



## MikeJhn

AES":1wfz1h72 said:


> Now to me, that looks "real classy". =D> =D>



Thanks, All class 4 Autoclaved timber from a Brico Depot, total cost about €500.00, just looking for the string quartet to entertain us now.  

Mike


----------



## Boysie

custard":1f01gbi7 said:


> ...Tidy work =D>



Thanks very much.


----------



## AES

QUOTE: ..... just looking for the string quartet to entertain us now. UNQUOTE:

Well I can bring a 4 (or 6) piece close harmony choir - you provide the airfares, wine, and overnight accommodation. AND you get to choose the repertoire!

(With a spread like that, and garden whotsit to match, looks like you can afford it. "Exclusive" entertainment - that last word used VERY loosely)!


----------



## MikeJhn

I'll send the jet to pick you all up, what airport and when. :ho2 

Mike


----------



## AES

Great    

(What songs do you want)? (hammer)


----------



## Paul200

Struggling to sand the inside of a concave box lid effectively and I suddenly had a brainwave! I cut a piece off of this and planed off the detail on the top





made an insert to fit in the recess





and now have a custom made concave sanding thingy!


----------



## thick_mike

Neat


----------



## MikeJhn

Songs of choice: 
Je Crois Entendre Encore 
La Chanson Des Vieux Amants
Or anything by Nina Simone, Bessy Smith or Billy Holiday, but at a push Robert Johnson or Leadbetter.,

Mike


----------



## DTR

Paul200":17swt0wn said:


> Struggling to sand the inside of a concave box lid effectively and I suddenly had a brainwave! I cut a piece off of this and planed off the detail on the top



Very clever =D>

I installed that same handrail on our stairs too


----------



## thetyreman

poor mans rebate plane, finished with BLO, I needed one to make some shiplap for my toolchest which is under construction. It fits my narex 12mm chisel, works surprisingly well.


----------



## Shaggy

Sister-in-law wanted a couple of frames for a couple of Disneyland souvenirs.
Found a few bits of knackered picket fence boards, sanded them clean and made my first picture frames.
She decided she liked the bare wood without any finish but it should be fine for a while in the bedroom where she plans to hang them.


----------



## custard

Shaggy":35kamzmk said:


> Found a few bits of knackered picket fence boards, sanded them clean and made my first picture frames.



You've done a good job on those mitres. They look a lot tidier than most people end up with for their first frames.

=D>


----------



## Shaggy

Thanks custard, my wife's put an order in for a frame now :roll: , just have to find some more bits of scrap wood :lol: .


----------



## Lons

Well sort of true but I've been wanting to make a set of gates for some time and as I work with the door open and the dog likes to see what's going on in the world I have until now needed to tie her up.

Not a top quality job as I made these to see if we like them before buying decent timber and knowing I could use them elsewhere but as they were a lot more work than I expected and look ok I've given 3 coats of preservative and they're staying put.

I made these just from softwood ( ex 9" x 3" ) I've had for a very long time so when they rot eventually I'll need to buy proper timber like larch or oak. though as the £40 for the hardware was the job total cost I'm happy. At least until the missus forgets to open them before she drives out that is.


----------



## johnnyb

Them look grand!


----------



## thetyreman

practice joint, from custards instructions on how to cut a mitred dovetail joint


----------



## AES

Cor blimey! They look VERY good to my (untutored) eye. If custard and co keep on posting such "propaganda" much more I shall really have to have a go myself (says he, having got the equivalent of a GCE O level in woodwork back in 1959, but whose test piece for the exam did NOT include a dovetail joint at all - just M&T + X-halving)!

=D>


----------



## custard

thetyreman":149clcsr said:


> practice joint, from custards instructions on how to cut a mitred dovetail joint



You've absolutely nailed it. I reckon you can put mitred dovetails into the "joints I've got sorted" file!

You can see from your test piece just how much classier a mitred dovetail would look on something like a pair of bookends, compared to normal dovetails. Instead of that slightly crude "butt joint" look when seen end on, this looks so much tidier.


----------



## AES

There you go again custard, with your (highly appreciated) "propaganda" (  ), but that really does look "reet neat"! Well worth the effort to learn (IF you're going to make furniture of any sort).

Lovely


----------



## custard

AES":3dkpcpxn said:


> says he, having got the equivalent of a GCE O level in woodwork



"O-Level woodwork" is generally used as a slightly disparaging term. That's a shame really, as the standard of work needed is way higher than most people appreciate.

These are some _actual_ O-Level Woodwork projects,

















Through tenons, dovetails, angled work, spokeshaving curves, haunched tenons, precision grooving...it all looks like _real_ woodwork to me! 

The sad thing is that many people on this forum will never complete even basic stuff like this. Projects that their 14 year old selves would have cheerfully tackled without a care in the world, would today see them paralysed with indecision about what are the _right_ tools, the _right_ wood, and the _right_ finish?

Something's going wrong somewhere!


----------



## AES

OK, thanks custard. I thought my "qualification" ("Isle of Thanet College of Preceptors") was O level equivalent, but perhaps it wasn't - certainly nothing like as complex as your drawings.

IF I remember, apart from a written/drawn paper (description n sketches of tools), the test piece was 3 pieces of some softwood which we had to saw and plane to given dimensions (from rough I think). 2 pieces joined together in an "X" form, and a 3rd piece M&T'd into the middle of one of the other two. No practical purpose, that was it!

But as a project before the actual exam I did however make a coffee table for my Mum which she had for a long time - but when she died it had apparently disappeared, don't know where/when.


----------



## LancsRick

I made this today, anybody want to take a guess what it is, or rather what it's for?


----------



## devonwoody

custard":1mb12eun said:


> thetyreman":1mb12eun said:
> 
> 
> 
> practice joint, from custards instructions on how to cut a mitred dovetail joint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You've absolutely nailed it. I reckon you can put mitred dovetails into the "joints I've got sorted" file!
> 
> You can see from your test piece just how much classier a mitred dovetail would look on something like a pair of bookends, compared to normal dovetails. Instead of that slightly crude "butt joint" look when seen end on, this looks so much tidier.
Click to expand...



Hi. Custard, why did you not do the secret mitred dovetail joint, I'm sure it was mentioned in our class doing the 40's.


----------



## thetyreman

LancsRick":2z9rmoy6 said:


> I made this today, anybody want to take a guess what it is, or rather what it's for?



stab in the dark here...is it a lightbox? or a panel to withhold an LED bulb?


----------



## custard

devonwoody":1x87l3no said:


> why did you not do the secret mitred dovetail joint, I'm sure it was mentioned in our class doing the 40's.



I explained in the original write-up DW, saying I've cut one or two as exercises, but as a working cabinet maker I've never found a compelling enough commercial justification to ever use a secret mitred dovetail on a real project. Mitred dovetails however are different, they would be the first choice for best quality work on plenty of applications, such as boxes, carcase work, etc.


----------



## LancsRick

Excellent guess!



You're wrong though .


----------



## Bm101

LancsRick":2c2uq660 said:


> I made this today, anybody want to take a guess what it is, or rather what it's for?


Ohhhh. Quiz! Like your style Rick.
It's a puzzler. I'd guess some sort of raspberry pi related electical monitor come whiteboard (yeh Im covering the bases). Wild guess. Yee haw.
Regards
Chris


----------



## LancsRick

I'll give some pointers...

It's not a clever thing. It's born from sloth. It's shiny because it's waterproof.


----------



## MikeJhn

thetyreman":1mvumdgn said:


> practice joint, from custards instructions on how to cut a mitred dovetail joint



That is just beautiful, more power to your elbow.

Mike


----------



## AES

Guess: Light panel for the roof of a caravn/motor caravan/boat, or similar?


----------



## LancsRick

You're giving me too much credit so I'll tell. 

It's a spill proof sharpening station so when I have a load of blades to lap or sharpen I can do it in the evening in the house rather than wasting workshop time doing it. I chomped through a batch of ten plane irons earlier. 

18mm mdf base with 6mm offcuts of shower panels use for the top and mitred raised edges. Grab adhesive to cope with the shiny material and then screwed in place (just discovered torx screws, love them).


----------



## MusicMan

thetyreman":8wp2h2ne said:


> poor mans rebate plane, finished with BLO, I needed one to make some shiplap for my toolchest which is under construction. It fits my narex 12mm chisel, works surprisingly well.



Nice. But how did you make the rebate on the rebate plane??


----------



## craigs

never left, just a lot of lurking and practising, planing, sharpening, planing, sharpening....

finished these this weekend, offcuts from the revered "Custard" and the practice also came from the short time i spent in his presence.

The only machine was the routed edges, its not much but its all practice towards greater things.


----------



## thetyreman

MusicMan":2on4wk61 said:


> thetyreman":2on4wk61 said:
> 
> 
> 
> poor mans rebate plane, finished with BLO, I needed one to make some shiplap for my toolchest which is under construction. It fits my narex 12mm chisel, works surprisingly well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice. But how did you make the rebate on the rebate plane??
Click to expand...


 knifewall, chisels, tenon saw and a router plane.


----------



## Racers

Crook knife made from a piece of O1 steel.



Crook knife by Racers, on Flickr
The brown oak handle was shaped with a spokeshave, I didn't put any finish on it when a sharpened it so it turned black the tannin in the oak reacting with the steel, I sanded it and gave it a coat of wax.

Taken with a Nikon D800 with a Lensbaby Composer body and a Sweet 50 optic 8mm extension tube at f4.5.


Pete


----------



## mr rusty

Pair of french doors in Accoya. - not quite finished - planted rebate still to fit,


----------



## devonwoody

Looks superb and back to tradition as well. I don't know the species but I'm sure others do.


----------



## aramco

this is my contribution a table made out of scrap wood and with a pallet wood top

take care 
John


----------



## Garno

thetyreman":3zck17km said:


> practice joint, from custards instructions on how to cut a mitred dovetail joint




I don't suppose you have a link to the instructions by any chance do you?

It looks amazing and would do boxes a terrific justice.


----------



## thetyreman

Garno":2rehry20 said:


> thetyreman":2rehry20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> practice joint, from custards instructions on how to cut a mitred dovetail joint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't suppose you have a link to the instructions by any chance do you?
> 
> It looks amazing and would do boxes a terrific justice.
Click to expand...


thankyou, the original thread by custard is here: how-to-cut-mitred-or-mitre-dovetails-wip-t112467.html


----------



## Garno

Thank you ever so much.

I will read it a few times then give it a try 8)


----------



## Chris152

Bad maths.




This was supposed to be just a trial but as it went on and took more effort, I wanted it to work out. All seemed ok til I got to the final hole and realised the knot was going to have to be at the front, which was never the idea. :roll:


----------



## Moonsafari69

Egg Cupboard
Made from 10mm Oak and finished with Boiled Linseed Oil. Small handle turned from Walnut. Front mesh is stainless steel. Small Neodymium magnets used for the clasp.
Box joints for the main case
Rabbet's for the rear panel
Stopped dado's for the shelves
Mitre's for the front panel


----------



## Roland

Coincidence. This afternoon I made a prototype egg rack. 




Just ordinary pine, with copper pipe. It’s also a trial of Monocoat as a finish.


----------



## Boysie

My wife was looking over my shoulder.
Now I have to add an egg cupboard to the list of projects.
:roll: :wink:


----------



## Doingupthehouse

Moonsafari69":4kqj96q3 said:


> Egg Cupboard
> Made from 10mm Oak and finished with Boiled Linseed Oil. Small handle turned from Walnut. Front mesh is stainless steel. Small Neodymium magnets used for the clasp.
> Box joints for the main case
> Rabbet's for the rear panel
> Stopped dado's for the shelves
> Mitre's for the front panel



An idea I’ll definitely be stealing  thanks for sharing. 

Simon


----------



## Moonsafari69

You’re welcome chaps. Not unsurprisingly this was requested by my wife too. They are quite efficient at keeping us busy


----------



## Steliz

Nice egg cupboard, I like it but my wife also saw it and asked why it needed a door?


----------



## novocaine

It's hardly fine furniture, but it has a charm of it's own and no, I don't have any issues jointing boards. birthday present for the young lad. 



2018-08-01_09-22-06 by David Rees, on Flickr


----------



## sammy.se

Doingupthehouse":3cwu06zq said:


> Moonsafari69":3cwu06zq said:
> 
> 
> 
> Egg Cupboard
> Made from 10mm Oak and finished with Boiled Linseed Oil. Small handle turned from Walnut. Front mesh is stainless steel. Small Neodymium magnets used for the clasp.
> Box joints for the main case
> Rabbet's for the rear panel
> Stopped dado's for the shelves
> Mitre's for the front panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An idea I’ll definitely be stealing  thanks for sharing.
> 
> Simon
Click to expand...

We just keep our eggs in a basket... Not all of them, some packs are in a kitchen cupboard.

Am I missing something not having an egg cupboard?? 

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I have a very good egg cupboard. A fridge.


----------



## sammy.se

phil.p":265e2iof said:


> I have a very good egg cupboard. A fridge.


Ha! 

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


----------



## Moonsafari69

You will all need to ask your wives / better halves about their egg cupboard requirements. Us guys just won’t get it, yet have to make them nonetheless


----------



## DennisCA

I carved an axe handle





And made a pizza peel:


----------



## Paul200

DennisCA":iji83452 said:


> And made a pizza peel:



Pizza peel is great (and been added to my 'to do' list) - but pineapple? On a Pizza! :shock: :roll:


----------



## Paul200

My latest attempt at a jewellery box - in Yew and Steamed Pear.







Cheers

Paul


----------



## DennisCA

Paul200":32bp190u said:


> Pizza peel is great (and been added to my 'to do' list) - but pineapple? On a Pizza! :shock: :roll:



I didn't use to like it either but I guess things change, one of my favorite pizzas at a nearby place is pepperoni, jalapenos, pineapple and hot sauce. It's a strange but superb combo.


----------



## thetyreman

added some domed brass screws to the workbench drawer frames, even though it's unlikely anybody will see them, 



drawer frame with domed head brass screws by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

made the workbench shelves that sellers recently made a video about, added a chamfer to make it a bit more special



workbench shelves #2 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

and for the last 2 months I've been working on making a tool chest, although it's not quite complete yet, I'll post another photo once it's painted and the lock and lid stay is installed



Joiners Toolchest before adding the handles by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Joiners Toolchest by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## thetyreman

Pizza peel is great (and been added to my 'to do' list) - but pineapple? On a Pizza! :shock: :roll:

:lol:


----------



## custard

thetyreman":2g4e3kxs said:


> added some domed brass screws to the workbench drawer frames, even though it's unlikely anybody will see them
> and for the last 2 months I've been working on making a tool chest



But _you_ know the brass screws are there, and that's all that counts!

And the tool chest looks impeccable, there's no chance of missing the craftsmanship there!

=D>


----------



## Racers

+1 on the chest, sharp work indeed.

Pete


----------



## Lons

Like the tool chest =D> Seems a shame to paint it though.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Nice chest Tyreman!

Something a little different, “can you guess what it is yet”?


----------



## thetyreman

Sawdust=manglitter":3jnx1z7w said:


> Nice chest Tyreman!
> 
> Something a little different, “can you guess what it is yet”?



some kind of massive jelly mould, and you've used blue jelly


----------



## Blockplane

Sawdust=manglitter":1fnc3vm3 said:


> Nice chest Tyreman!
> 
> Something a little different, “can you guess what it is yet”?



Conversion of something meant for the kitchen into a gluepot?


----------



## sammy.se

A chemical loo?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Not even close :wink:


----------



## MarkDennehy

Large block of acrylic for woodturning?


----------



## AES

Oh, all right then! How about a new dust & chippings bin for a Thein or cyclone DE?

OR, it could be a massive coffee pot for when yer mates come round


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Ok i’ll tell you... i’m making a big vacuum chamber for the new vacuum pump i bought a couple of weeks ago ready for stabilising some wood. The blue stuff is just clear silicone mixed with some dye (wanted to give it a go) and the photo is the pressure pot in the silicone to ensure the silicone dries to the exact shape for a (fingers crossed) perfect seal. I’m still waiting for the plumbing parts, vacuum gauge etc to get delivered before i can finish it, but i’ll make a wip of it if anyone was interested?


----------



## sammy.se

Yes please, WIPs are always good!!

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


----------



## El Barto

More lovely stuff here recently. Tyreman I'm going to steal those shelves for my own bench. I especially like the tucked away sharpening stones. Like a tidier version of Rob Cosman's setup. 

Are you making a tool chest based on the Anarchist's Toolchest? Looking forward to seeing more of it!

I spent a couple of hours the other night making a magic wand for the infant. It was pretty fun to make, no set plan just shaping a piece of oak until it looked right. Oak has quickly become my favourite wood to work with.


----------



## thetyreman

El Barto":2ha1tg48 said:


> More lovely stuff here recently. Tyreman I'm going to steal those shelves for my own bench. I especially like the tucked away sharpening stones. Like a tidier version of Rob Cosman's setup.
> 
> Are you making a tool chest based on the Anarchist's Toolchest? Looking forward to seeing more of it!



here's a link on how to make the shelves https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AaLVkNikYeQ&t=2s sellers goes through each stage, then the toolchest is on woodworking masterclass but a paid for project called the joiners toolbox, I didn't modify or change anything because I liked the design so much, I'm about to install the lock and escutcheon which is another new skill to learn for me.


----------



## Raymond UK

Small dog kennel.


----------



## thetyreman

Toolchest : Key/Brass Escutcheon Detail by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

today I completed installing a brass inlayed escutcheon, it's my first go at anything like this, it isn't perfect but it'll be painted then sanded over, the lines around the edges are pencil marks, what would you recommend when painting it? mask it off? or sand straight through it, I'll be using chalk paint for it.



A&amp;E Squire 2&quot; Brass Mortise lock by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

and completed installing the lock, it was worth getting a good one by A&E Squire, they are very well made worth what they cost for sure.



Chest with lock and Escutcheon by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

and finally a shot of the whole chest with the new escutcheon


----------



## Racers

Occasional table made to go on the decking I have just about finished.



Occasional table by Racers, on Flickr

Made in 2 hours using mostly hand tools apart from a jigsaw to cut out the top.
Apple branches from my apple tree for the legs.

Pete


----------



## MikeG.

thetyreman":mrncdp2f said:


> Toolchest : Key/Brass Escutcheon Detail by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> today I completed installing a brass inlayed escutcheon, it's my first go at anything like this, it isn't perfect but it'll be painted then sanded over, the lines around the edges are pencil marks, what would you recommend when painting it? mask it off? or sand straight through it, I'll be using chalk paint for it.
> 
> 
> 
> A&amp;E Squire 2&quot; Brass Mortise lock by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> and completed installing the lock, it was worth getting a good one by A&E Squire, they are very well made worth what they cost for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> Chest with lock and Escutcheon by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> and finally a shot of the whole chest with the new escutcheon



Well, I like that, Tyreman. That's a proper piece of furniture, and attractively designed. Simple and elegant. However, I fear you are about to ruin it with chalk paint. All those dovetails will disappear. The damn stuff hides everything.

If you feel the need to paint it (or indeed, you feel some external pressure to paint it), then how about wipe-on-wipe-off emulsion? That way you'll still get to see the dovetails, and the grain of the wood, but you'll get a hint of colour too. It works nicely with pine. You can varnish over it if you want a more robust finish (not water-based varnish, though).


----------



## GarF

+1 for emulsion, burnished with 000 or 0000 steel wool. Lovely chest.
G


----------



## John15

A very attractive tool box Tyeman. An oil finish would look good, showing up your nice dovetails and the grain.

John


----------



## DTR

thetyreman":3i2jrgl6 said:


> today I completed installing a brass inlayed escutcheon, it's my first go at anything like this, it isn't perfect but it'll be painted then sanded over, the lines around the edges are pencil marks, what would you recommend when painting it? mask it off? or sand straight through it, I'll be using chalk paint for it.



Beautiful work Tyreman =D> =D> 




Racers":3i2jrgl6 said:


> Occasional table made to go on the decking I have just about finished.
> 
> Made in 2 hours using mostly hand tools apart from a jigsaw to cut out the top.
> Apple branches from my apple tree for the legs.
> 
> Pete



I like that too =D> =D> How big is it, it looks quite small?


----------



## Racers

The table top is 330mm wide and 440mm high, it’s more of a side table. 
I need to find the rest of the plank and make another. 

Pete


----------



## Felix

A little something I knocked up


----------



## thetyreman

bowmaster":3evjtp3m said:


> A little something I knocked up



who did the stained glass? that's quality work, beautiful lamp! =D>


----------



## Felix

Thank you. I made the whole thing myself (there are over 200 pieces of glass in that panel and all the joints are soldered front and back. I have made a number of stained glass panels, lamp shades and mirrors. I'm looking to try and get a business going doing something I actually like. I'm an electrician by trade, but hate it with a vengeance, so I'm teaching myself joinery and cabinetry - the glass started after I did a little course to make a diamond window in my front door.

Take a look at www.andonart.com - that's where I put all the stuff I've made

Here's a mirror I made:





thetyreman":j0x5gh1a said:


> bowmaster":j0x5gh1a said:
> 
> 
> 
> A little something I knocked up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> who did the stained glass? that's quality work, beautiful lamp! =D>
Click to expand...


----------



## Racers

Decking finished, shed painted, cat installed...



Decking by Racers, on Flickr

You can just about make out the set of cat steps on the right hand side so Otis can get onto the shed roof easily.

2.6 X 5.2 meters.

Pete


----------



## Bm101

Love the fact you made cat steps for what I'm guessing is your old(ish)lad to get up to the roof and his warm spot. Dedication and an open heart there Pete. Fair play


----------



## Bm101

bowmaster":2igrsi9p said:


> I'm looking to try and get a business going doing something I actually like. I'm an electrician by trade, but hate it with a vengeance, so I'm teaching myself joinery and cabinetry - the glass started after I did a little course to make a diamond window in my front door.


 =D> =D> =D> 
.


----------



## Racers

Bm101":8vymgr5t said:


> Love the fact you made cat steps for what I'm guessing is your old(ish)lad to get up to the roof and his warm spot. Dedication and an open heart there Pete. Fair play


He isn’t that old but the lilac tree he used to access the roof I had to cut down as it was rotting, and he struggled coming down afterwards. 

Pete


----------



## DennisCA

Another axe gets a new shaft, this is a smaller version of the one I made last time and will become a one handed woodworking axe. I did the rough shaping with another small axe I usually keep indoors for kindling work.


----------



## fezman

I've been making this box for a while (don't get too much spare time to go in the workshop) and received plenty of advice from forum members on things such as routing for the hinges and the box lining. Custard's article on the lining worked great. 

The finished box is far from perfect, but it has been a learning experience for me - just the second box I've made, and the first one with an insert and lining. 

It was intended to store my watches, cufflinks etc. but SWMBO has commandeered it for some of her jewellery.

Materials used were Ash, Suede Lining and Strap hinges from Prokraft. For the price (about £5 per pair) the hinges are OK, but i would welcome any advice on other strap hinges available.


----------



## thetyreman

Here is the completed toolbox/chest, after 3 months work, I am happy to have finally completed it, the project has been a big learning experience, will post more detailed shots later on today.



IMG_1302.jpg by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## thetyreman

here are a few more details of the chest: 



Key and Brass Escutcheon by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Oak Runner Cleat and Bearer by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Joiner&#x27;s Toolbox Tills Removed by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Joiner&#x27;s Toolbox Handle Detail by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Top and Bottom Tills by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Joiner&#x27;s Toolbox Backside by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Joiner&#x27;s Toolbox Brass Hinge by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Brass Striking Plate by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Brusso Lid Stay JB-280 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## AndyT

That looks immaculate! Very nice and crisply fitted hardware too.


----------



## custard

fezman":2t0e0cna said:


> Strap hinges from Prokraft. For the price (about £5 per pair) the hinges are OK, but i would welcome any advice on other strap hinges available.



Very nice job! Unfortunately there's a real jump in price from those hinges to the top of the range versions like NeatHinge and SmartHinge. Maybe that wouldn't have been an appropriate expense before, but it looks like your skills are getting to the stage that your work warrants first class hardware.


----------



## custard

thetyreman":19ccn412 said:


> Here is the completed toolbox/chest, after 3 months work



Impeccable work. From the choice of colour through to the installation of the hardware, that's a thoroughly professional job. Kudos for never getting impatient and bodging it up because you were rushing. Okay, it took three months, but now it'll reward you with years and years of satisfaction

=D>


----------



## El Barto

Very nicely done. Clean as a whistle!


----------



## DennisCA

Three legged stool


----------



## thetyreman

made myself a wall bracket over the weekend using meranti, it's not glued yet or finished but here's some photos:



Corner Wall Bracket by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Meranti Wall Bracket Side View by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Houndstooth Dovetail Corner Wall Bracket by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Wall Bracket in the Vice by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## AES

Like it very much, especially the dovetails. As a member here I should probably be ashamed to admit it, but so far I have never made even 1 attempt at a dovetail! One day (perhaps)


----------



## El Barto

thetyreman":2olmcudr said:


> made myself a wall bracket over the weekend using meranti, it's not glued yet or finished but here's some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> Corner Wall Bracket by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Meranti Wall Bracket Side View by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Houndstooth Dovetail Corner Wall Bracket by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Wall Bracket in the Vice by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Really nice. I also love seeing your bench now vs when you built it. Mine is similar and I appreciate every knock and scrape and saw mark.


----------



## thetyreman

made a pen caddy for my dad's birthday, I wanted to use contrasting woods, the meranti is quartersawn and I picked out the best bits, and redwood pine for the sides, it measures 6 inches long by 3 inches high at the back and 2 inches deep, great way to use up some offcuts as it's not too big, the angle the pens rest at means they shouldn't fall down once it's full, it's a bit bling with the grain :lol: but it was good practise, I finished it with dewaxed shellac as a sanding sealer, then danish oil to pop the grain.


----------



## AndyT

I like that!
I also have some suitable offcuts, too nice to chuck out, not big enough for much else... and Christmas is not that far off...


----------



## Raymond UK

That looks nice Ben.

I've never attempted cutting dovetails by hand. I don't think I have the patience.


----------



## MikeG.

Raymond UK":2kgl2zas said:


> That looks nice Ben.
> 
> I've never attempted cutting dovetails by hand. I don't think I have the patience.



Patience? Once you've done a few, you'll realise just how quick they can be. It's a quicker job than chopping out a mortise and tenon, I reckon, and possibly a bit more forgiving of inaccuracy, too, depending on the timber.


----------



## Raymond UK

MikeG.":pskkc1xj said:


> Patience? Once you've done a few, you'll realise just how quick they can be. It's a quicker job than chopping out a mortise and tenon, I reckon, and possibly a bit more forgiving of inaccuracy, too, depending on the timber.



Cheers Mike,

I cheat with dovetails on the toy chests I make and cut them with a router on a jig. (half blind dovetails).

Mortice and tenon I do on the table saw and mortising machine.

Best get my coat...


----------



## Raymond UK

I sold my wood lathe as I needed more space in the shed and don't seem to get time to play anymore so I thought I'd make one last thing on it before it goes.

A Dorito bowl out of oak.

Doritos on the outside and a hole in the middle to fit a glass container for the dip.


----------



## thetyreman

Raymond UK":2yl5mrp2 said:


> That looks nice Ben.
> 
> I've never attempted cutting dovetails by hand. I don't think I have the patience.



just give a go, your mind can easily trick you out of it, you'd be able to do it I'm sure, don't be too hard on yourself.


----------



## aramco

this is the last thing that I made , it may be a while before I make anything else as back surgery on Thursday AM

take care
John


----------



## thetyreman

I've finished the wall bracket, used le tonkinois marine no1 varnish, it took AGES but was worth it, couldn't finish the whole of the bracket in one go so just one layer took 3 days, here it is after 3 layers, I am happy with the end result.



finished wall bracket (meranti) by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## Ttrees

The finish looks nice Ben
Is it all meranti? 
The diagonal strut looks like sipo/utile to me with that fleck.
Tom


----------



## AndyT

Nice bracket with chamfers and a subtle curve.

Next time, assuming that there are screw holes in the upright, you can use the holes and some oversized screws to fix the bracket to a bit of scrap but spaced away from it. Then you can clamp the scrap in the vice and varnish all sides at once.


----------



## thetyreman

Ttrees":3gglqwxn said:


> The finish looks nice Ben
> Is it all meranti?
> The diagonal strut looks like sipo/utile to me with that fleck.
> Tom



I think it's meranti, but it was almost dead on quartersawn, it could be sipo or utile but the brace piece had the same texture as the other pieces so I just presumed it was meranti, the wood came from an old door that I cut up a while ago, glad you like the finish though


----------



## thetyreman

AndyT":81vtei1b said:


> Nice bracket with chamfers and a subtle curve.
> 
> Next time, assuming that there are screw holes in the upright, you can use the holes and some oversized screws to fix the bracket to a bit of scrap but spaced away from it. Then you can clamp the scrap in the vice and varnish all sides at once.



thanks, I almost feel embarrassed that I didn't think of that, what a great tip!


----------



## BigMonka

A real woodworking newbie here, but I made myself a mitre block to cut some small bits of window trim that needed replacing. I followed a Paul Sellers video so it was my first time using the "knife wall" method of starting cuts.
It's made of sapele and surprisingly close to 45degrees!


----------



## MikeG.

They have a very limited life, those mitre guides. Each time you use it the kerf is opened up a little, giving more and more play. Fine if you are following up on a shooting board, but watch out if you are trying to make your joints straight from the saw.


----------



## Nico Adie

A plywood (standard 18mm, not baltic birch) and live edge walnut TV/Media unit I made last month. No WIP pictures because I’m an silly person and forgot to take any. All hand dimensioned, though no fancy joints other than reinforced butt joints. Not much point doing them in plywood anyway I reckon. Ply parts finished with liming wax, walnut finished with 3 coats of danish oil. My wife likes it, that’ll do me!


----------



## Nico Adie

Should add - the live edge “doors” are hinged, and held in place by tiny rare earth magnets in the inside of the carcass and the end grain of the walnut. Works a treat!


----------



## Paul200

Oak bathroom wall cabinet (almost finished)










All joints are shallow M&T with a couple of additional plugged screws in the bottom for peace of mind.


----------



## Roland

Whilst cutting logs for the winter wood pile I came across a piece of yew. It seemed a shame to burn it. Nothing special, I’m not an experienced turner, but I do love the grain patterns which you can find:


----------



## Paul200

That's a nice find Roland. And a nice use of it.


----------



## Cordy

American Oak; from reclaimed timber


----------



## Quickben

Dandan":1pyrdi1p said:


> Mrs Dandan bought some cheap metal brackets to encourage me to make some bookshelves for the spare room.
> Metal brackets? That won't do at all...



My book shelf (back before I discovered Kindle) looked almost exactly like this (the books it contained, not the shelf itself)

I had the same Robert Jordan copies and GRRM, also had a few signed David Gemmel hardbacks.

Just out of interest, Netflix (or Amazon Prime, I don't recall which) are making a series based on the Wheel of Time series.


----------



## AES

That's a very "tidy" looking book shelf/s, well done. 

I like the shaping, and the joints, very tidy.

It depends on personal taste I know, but personally (depending on the surroundings of course) I quite like to see exposed ply end veneers - always assuming of course that it's "decent" ply and not that stuff where the centre core/s consist merely of what looks like thick white lavatory paper! In fact the "professional" office furniture (desks, etc) I have in my office has exposed end plies like that. It looks good (IMO).


----------



## Benno

I went on a Chris Tribe course in July and so this is my first proper project after getting some 'proper' tools - it's essentially a re-run of what we did on the course but smaller and I made a pair of them:






It's given me the confidence that I remember what I was taught and so I'm looking to replace our cheap Ikea stools in the kitchen with handmade oak ones next.


----------



## Steliz

I'm on a bit of a turning hiatus at the moment due to a recent international house move and ongoing house renovations. My workshop is jammed in the back of the garage surrounded by building materials and will be for some time yet.  
Here is a bowl I turned just before the move which I am particularly fond of.


----------



## Suffolkboy

That's tidy.


----------



## 8squared

As i've not been on for some time i'd thought i'd show a few things i've been making while at my local wood club.

With small scraps i've made many of these to play with a thin spindle gauge for practice with the tool and design.







Oak and mahogany... just playing with simple effective but not the most attractive design.







Oak josh stick holder.











Had a play with trying segmented work pieces but i was bad at it so laminated a few square strips together then cut and glued on top slightly rotating as i did... then turned it to a goblet/giant doorknob.







Small plate with a bump in the centre. The strip was meant to be more one sided but finished almost centre after i cut wrong side of mahogany shorte.







Pens... one acrylic and one african hardwood. Still learning asthey are slightly imperfect.







Dragged a log out the woods and turned it into this unfinished bowl/dish... didn't turned out as nice as i thought.











Wenge pot











Mango dish with wire burnt rings











Oak pot/dish, bit of funny shape... with wire burnt rings











Large-ish Mahogany dish... 6.25" x 2.75"











Lidded Poplar box


----------



## thetyreman

I've cut a hole out mhe bench and made an apron drawer frame, sellers makes it look easy, it took me a lot longer, I made certain my stock was dead flat and twist free, using only a no7, I'm finding myself using a no7 more and more. I used some spare 2 bhe four pine and meranti, which definitley added a good amount of weight to the bench....



Drawer Heaven by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr

with that out the way the next stage is making the drawer.


----------



## John15

A very neat opening and nice runners Ben. Good luck with the drawer.

John


----------



## Chris152

Sweet chestnut, maple, laburnum and London plane on ply, finished with boiled linseed oil/ acrylic sanding sealer and wax, and acrylic paints.


----------



## MusicMan

Mondrian-inspired?


----------



## Chris152

MusicMan":3gad45bx said:


> Mondrian-inspired?


Yes - I'm really interested in the contrast between the hard, rectilinear forms of de Stijl (and Constructivism) and natural forms.


----------



## Cordy

Planter trough
34" long x 14" wide x 12 inches high; Redwood
Planted Tulip, Hyacinth and crocus bulbs for a Spring display


----------



## AES

Looks very neat. Mustn't show SWMBO!


----------



## thetyreman

been working on my workbench drawer for the apron, I just need to decide on a handle and it's finished.



Workbench Apron Drawer by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Housing Dado Double Tenon by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



IMG_1392.jpg by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



IMG_1405.jpg by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



IMG_1403.jpg by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## AndyT

Lovely!
I think Paul Sellers says different, but a flush handle or finger hole is often recommended here.

I have three much less attractive drawers on my bench, which are set well back so the handles don't get in the way. Just a few times, I've pulled one forward to rest a long board on - a possible design consideration for you, resting either on the drawer or the handle, maybe?


----------



## JameyE

thetyreman , I agree with AndyT; personally, I would love to see a finger hole, it's easier and more practical. Maybe I would "reinforce" it with a rubber ring or a metal one.


----------



## John15

Nice neat dovetails Tyreman

John


----------



## thetyreman

I drilled a 3/4" 19mm hole in the end, it works very well, here it is:



Completed Apron Drawer by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Apron Drawer Contents by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## Bm101

Cracking work on the drawer Ben as always but that photo is pure magical realism. Amazing mate. :shock:


----------



## ScaredyCat

Sorry for the image quality, not much light in that room. I had about 30 seconds after I'd installed it before my wife started using it. 

Walnut (most of it) and maple (drawers and sides) with a birch (ply) top, trimmed with walnut. Originally I was going th veneer the top, if fact I tried. That's £40 I'm never getting back and 16 hours trying to get it off again. What a mess. At first I hated the birch ply /walnut top but I put 10 coats of varnish on it and it has a really nice soft feel to it. I'm now sold on that finish.

Size is 1785mm x 620 mm ( 70" x 24.5" approx in old money). There are a lot of mistakes in it but I learned an awful lot when building it. 

Not quite finished, but I needed to get it installed beause it was taking up loads of room (I don't have a workshop). I have 2 shelves for the left which I'm just finishing and then I have drawers to make for the right.


----------



## El Barto

I very quickly (too quickly in fact) decided to make this stool as a birthday present. It was a good experience though, working to a tight deadline; I think I learnt more as a result and I'm happy with the finished piece. My favourite thing about chair making is with each process you see and feel your skills develop. Legs this length for instance were really difficult to turn and match consistently but by the end I was getting the hang of it.

The legs are ash riven from a tree that came down by my house in a storm and the seat is wych elm kindly given to me by Custard (thank you again).


----------



## Bm101

ScaredyCat":2x57byvj said:


> Not quite finished, but I needed to get it installed beause it was taking up loads of room (I don't have a workshop). I have 2 shelves for the left which I'm just finishing and then I have drawers to make for the right.


This deserves better photos so we can see more clearly! Look forward to seeing it finished.


----------



## thetyreman

stunning el barto, your work is REALLY coming along thesedays, I recon you could sell that no problem, please do not stop and keep persevering, I have yet to use custards wood that he sent me last year it's so beautiful that I'm almost scared of touching it, he sent me the most amazing rippled ash and cherry and other woods as well, they've been air drying for over a year, it's time to get using them on my next project I think.


----------



## Bm101

El Barto":3fiygwj7 said:


>



The shape seems somewhat unusual to my novice eye but all the better for it. It's really appealing. Like the seat shape and how you have joined the legs. I don't have the design language but you've caught something there. =D> 
Mrs just walked past. 
'Oohhhh, that's nice.' 
See. Told ya.
:wink:


----------



## El Barto

thetyreman":1z8pdq7q said:


> stunning el barto, your work is REALLY coming along thesedays, I recon you could sell that no problem, please do not stop and keep persevering, I have yet to use custards wood that he sent me last year it's so beautiful that I'm almost scared of touching it, he sent me the most amazing rippled ash and cherry and other woods as well, they've been air drying for over a year, it's time to get using them on my next project I think.



Thank you! Yes I have a few other bits from him that I'm trying to save. Luckily one of the seat blanks was large enough to keep for a proper chair seat while also squeezing this stool seat out of it too.



Bm101":1z8pdq7q said:


> El Barto":1z8pdq7q said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The shape seems somewhat unusual to my novice eye but all the better for it. It's really appealing. Like the seat shape and how you have joined the legs. I don't have the design language but you've caught something there. =D>
> Mrs just walked past.
> 'Oohhhh, that's nice.'
> See. Told ya.
> :wink:
Click to expand...


Thank you to you too! And to your Mrs.

I finished it with Osmo clear and was completely blown away by what it did to the elm. It went the most incredibly colour and brought out every tiny detail. I couldn't really capture it in a photo but it is stunning. Some of it looking like digital glitches. There's also a glue line here which almost disappeared which I'm pretty pleased about!


----------



## Turnr77

El Barto":p43v34aj said:


>



Typical cat, demands you put them on a pedestal


----------



## Raymond UK

ScaredyCat":21ond0do said:


> Sorry for the image quality, not much light in that room. I had about 30 seconds after I'd installed it before my wife started using it.
> 
> Walnut (most of it) and maple (drawers and sides) with a birch (ply) top, trimmed with walnut. Originally I was going th veneer the top, if fact I tried. That's £40 I'm never getting back and 16 hours trying to get it off again. What a mess. At first I hated the birch ply /walnut top but I put 10 coats of varnish on it and it has a really nice soft feel to it. I'm now sold on that finish.
> 
> Size is 1785mm x 620 mm ( 70" x 24.5" approx in old money). There are a lot of mistakes in it but I learned an awful lot when building it.
> 
> Not quite finished, but I needed to get it installed beause it was taking up loads of room (I don't have a workshop). I have 2 shelves for the left which I'm just finishing and then I have drawers to make for the right.



Very nice looking desk indeed. I really need to pull my finger out and make myself one once I get some time.


----------



## Dandan

Finally got the first part of my front garden fence done, more pictures here:
post1251108.html#p1251108


----------



## Buckeye

This is the biggest project I have done to date. It is a run of 4.5m of built ins under the stairs of an old Victorian semi. Shelves, cupboards and a log store at the short end. I got my estimate right in terms of material costs but didn't do well with time estimate. Cabinets were huge so had to be assembled on site. I only do one-two days a week at woodwork and then four at my day job so it took a load of time to complete. 

They are mrmdf with tulip doors and frames.

Lots of firsts for me on this job and they are not perfect by a long shot but I am happy and the client was delighted so alls well that ends well.


----------



## will1983

Very smart Buck eye! I like the colour, F&B?? Not so sure on the colour of the handles mind, but then, the customer is always right eh..

I love that beading detail around each of those little cubby holes and the white paint inside them, it gives the whole thing more of a bespoke/handmade feel. Does the customer plan to install some LEDs inside those at some point?

Will


----------



## Buckeye

Thanks Will. Customer always right indeed. No LEDs planned. They had a painter come in to paint so I am not sure of the colours.


----------



## Raymond UK

That's a very nice unit indeed Buckeye. I've never attempted anything that big.

Just finished this today. Just another toy box but with an added divider to separate toy I assume.


----------



## will1983

Beautiful work there Raymond, lovely tight dovetails and nice painted lettering. Are they those solid pine panels you can buy or did you glue them up yourself?


----------



## will1983

I put the Matthias Wandell bandsaw to task this week and made a stack of timber.

Oh, on the bandsaw front I finished the table, made a base cabinet, fitted the motor, made a rail and fence and few other modifications..

A month back we had a silver birch taken down in the garden, most of it has been cut up for next winters firewood or gone through the chipper to feed the compost bin. The trunk however was cut into 4 lengths, each about 3' long and set aside for milling into boards.

The other night I got round to milling up the first of these, I made a sawing guide from some scraps to run against the fence. I split the log into quarters then sawed those into 1" boards. It's in stick in the garage now but won't be ready for use until at least next summer.




There is some nice character timber in there including some nice figure where an old branch grew. There's more variation between the heart and sap wood than I was expecting.








Not a bad haul for a single log, the other three are slightly larger and one has a crotch in it that I expect to provide some nice figure.








Once I have my big log store situated in its final position in the garden I'll paint the ends of the boards and stack all of it all in there. The log store is stained black to match my fencing but this also has the effect that it heats up quickly in the sun and therefore helps with the drying process.


----------



## Raymond UK

will1983":3np5br6f said:


> Beautiful work there Raymond, lovely tight dovetails and nice painted lettering. Are they those solid pine panels you can buy or did you glue them up yourself?



Thanks Will.

It's 18mm laminated pine . They come in 600x3000mm sheets. The whole of the box is made out of it. I don't believe in putting cheap ply bottoms in. Misses Ray paints these on her days off. Sometimes even cuts some letters when it gets too busy.  

That's some bandsaw you've build :shock:


----------



## will1983

Cheers Raymond. It's been a good challenge and I've really enjoyed building it.

I've never used those panels before but I might give them a go.


----------



## Paul200

Finished a box today that I made from a Tulip tree that came down in our neighbours garden.









The tree had been planted by our neighbours mother and she was a bit upset about it being felled by a storm. My better half suggested I make her a box so she can always have a little piece of it around. A lovely thought for a lovely lady. I thoroughly enjoyed making it too.

Details are Black Walnut. Finished with Danish Oil and Beeswax. Lined with plum velvet.


----------



## Hornbeam

Very nice
Ian


----------



## Raymond UK

will1983":387rkwz5 said:


> Cheers Raymond. It's been a good challenge and I've really enjoyed building it.
> 
> I've never used those panels before but I might give them a go.



Make sure you cover them with some polythene as they do warp quite easily being laminated. Laminated as in strips of pine glued together, not veneered.

It's only a problem for the lids as the side panels get straightened in the dovetail jig. Just a bit harder to get them together.

Renders your dining room useless though this time of year... :roll:


----------



## DTR

Raymond UK":4lve71l9 said:


> Just finished this today. Just another toy box but with an added divider to separate toy I assume.



Very nice =D> =D> 



Paul200":4lve71l9 said:


> Finished a box today that I made from a Tulip tree that came down in our neighbours garden.



I like that, all the more so as it came from a nearby tree. I'm not so keen on the knot, but again as it came from a single local tree I guess it's part of the character =D>


----------



## will1983

Paul200":1c6okn2d said:


> Finished a box today that I made from a Tulip tree that came down in our neighbours garden.
> 
> The tree had been planted by our neighbours mother and she was a bit upset about it being felled by a storm. My better half suggested I make her a box so she can always have a little piece of it around. A lovely thought for a lovely lady. I thoroughly enjoyed making it too.
> 
> Details are Black Walnut. Finished with Danish Oil and Beeswax. Lined with plum velvet.



Very nice, I presume you milled the timber yourself then, how long did it take to season to a point where it was usable?

Thanks for the tip with the polythene Raymond.


----------



## Yojevol

Here's a simple pine cabinet made for friends who wanted to house their collection of LP's, tape cassettes (remember them?) and CD's and to support their new multi-media music centre.








Made from pine obtained from my local wood yard, surprisingly knot free. Stained with Liberon Antique Pine - water based, and finished Fiddes wax. The LP rack and drawers are all simply removable should they not be required in the future.
Brian


----------



## Paul200

Sorry - I missed these.



DTR":1ciijrtf said:


> Paul200":1ciijrtf said:
> 
> 
> 
> Finished a box today that I made from a Tulip tree that came down in our neighbours garden.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like that, all the more so as it came from a nearby tree. I'm not so keen on the knot, but again as it came from a single local tree I guess it's part of the character =D>
Click to expand...


It's a bonus that we live in a heavily wooded area - and especially that this was just next door. I like to incorporate knots and live edges in my boxes because, as you say, they add character. But I was particularly keen to add character to this one because I'm not a big fan of Tulip wood! It always looks a bit 'grubby' to me but given the circumstances I had to use it. :roll: 



will1983":1ciijrtf said:


> Very nice, I presume you milled the timber yourself then, how long did it take to season to a point where it was usable?



The tree had to be dealt with urgently when it came down because it was blocking our lane. What was left was little more than firewood but I salvaged one larger piece and planked it very roughly with a chainsaw (I don't have a bandsaw) into approx. 25mm boards. This was then layered with separating sticks, clamped and put in a corner of my workshop for about 18 months. I flattened the boards with a router on a jig and, when tested with our firewood damp tester, they came out at about 12%. I've no idea what it should be dried down to but that was good enough for me. 

It all worked very well but the lid did have a slight bow when I came to fit it - so I made breadboard ends from Walnut to straighten it out. I'm pleased with it but time (and the experts) will tell if it was dry enough :wink: 

Cheers

Paul


----------



## Paul200

We needed a post box to put on our garden gate so that Nigel the Postman doesn't have to open and shut the gate to deliver our bills! I had some locally felled Oak from our nearby sawmill to hand and I fancied something a bit Arty and Crafty - this is the result.









It's currently soaking up as much Linseed Oil as I can give it and then we'll see how it stands up to our wet and windy weather :? 

Cheers

Paul


----------



## MikeG.

Posted elsewhere on the forum, but I thought I'd give it a wider audience. This is the lock box I just made for my front door. The steel straps were cut out of an old wheelbarrow:


----------



## Raymond UK

Paul200":3als0a95 said:


> We needed a post box to put on our garden gate so that Nigel the Postman doesn't have to open and shut the gate to deliver our bills! I had some locally felled Oak from our nearby sawmill to hand and I fancied something a bit Arty and Crafty - this is the result.
> 
> It's currently soaking up as much Linseed Oil as I can give it and then we'll see how it stands up to our wet and windy weather :?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Paul



Very nice Paul. I like that a lot!


----------



## Raymond UK

MikeG. said:


> Posted elsewhere on the forum, but I thought I'd give it a wider audience. This is the lock box I just made for my front door. The steel straps were cut out of an old wheelbarrow:
> 
> Nice! Is that a round top door. Any pictures from the outside Mike?


----------



## Paul200

MikeG.":3tmc39u9 said:


> Posted elsewhere on the forum, but I thought I'd give it a wider audience. This is the lock box I just made for my front door. The steel straps were cut out of an old wheelbarrow:



Loving that! Always worried about old rim locks being very insecure. That's certainly not!


----------



## MikeG.

Raymond UK":37r337n5 said:


> .......Nice! Is that a round top door. Any pictures from the outside Mike?



The top is a 4 centred arch. Very mediaeval.

There's a thread about it here, with lots of photos.


----------



## Raymond UK

Cheers Mike. That'll give me something to read.


----------



## thetyreman

Yojevol":fiqmrwk4 said:


> Here's a simple pine cabinet made for friends who wanted to house their collection of LP's, tape cassettes (remember them?) and CD's and to support their new multi-media music centre.View attachment 2018
> View attachment 2018
> View attachment 2018
> Made from pine obtained from my local wood yard, surprisingly knot free. Stained with Liberon Antique Pine - water based, and finished Fiddes wax. The LP rack and drawers are all simply removable should they not be required in the future.
> Brian



very nice work, are the dividers inside dadoed in? I'm curious to know what methods you used, regards, Ben.


----------



## Woodmonkey

Posh dog cage with yew top.


----------



## Yojevol

thetyreman":30w68lkw said:


> Yojevol":30w68lkw said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a simple pine cabinet made for friends who wanted to house their collection of LP's, tape cassettes (remember them?) and CD's and to support their new multi-media music centre.View attachment 2018
> View attachment 2018
> View attachment 2018
> Made from pine obtained from my local wood yard, surprisingly knot free. Stained with Liberon Antique Pine - water based, and finished Fiddes wax. The LP rack and drawers are all simply removable should they not be required in the future.
> Brian
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very nice work, are the dividers inside dadoed in? I'm curious to know what methods you used, regards, Ben.
Click to expand...

I just ran the housing top & bottom over the rip saw blade which was set to give my required depth of groove. The correct width, to match the hardboard dividers, was obtained with a second cut having moved the fence by a millimeter.


----------



## Chris152

For some reason, there's often lots of bits of wood hanging about around my house. A couple of days ago I noticed my 12-year-old had idly arranged a few while eating breakfast, not really thinking about what she was doing. So I quickly glued them up as she'd arranged them.




Not exactly the most striking piece of woodwork ever to appear on the forum, but I quite like it. The Surrealists were really interested in doodles, I think this a wooden doodle in the manner of the Russian Constructivists.


----------



## Bm101

Shhh....

Quiet! 

Don't let it see you looking or it will do a runner...












Getting there. 3 year odd bench build. Just checked the dates I joined ukw lol. That's a bit mad.  
_Lot_ of water under the bridge since I cut the first bit of wood for this. So much so I re-cut a lot of the joints before this assembly. Some of them were a bit wobbly being my first ever m+t's :roll: We are learning. Slowly.

Get on with it Chris. 
Sheeesh!


----------



## Fitzroy

With winter truly underway in Aberdeen, and the honeysuckle sufficiently shutdown that I could trim it back hard, it was time to bite the bullet and see if I could breakout the old arch from under it and get the new one installed.






Really happy with how it turned out considering it started as an oak sleeper. Yes overly complicated joinery for a garden item, and now it’s finished it’s obvious there are a couple of joints that will hold water due to orientation, but was fun to make and a great learning experience. 

F.


----------



## thetyreman

finished my first coat rack, this is for a family friend who is paying me, it's american white oak, I picked a darker piece for the body and lighter piece for the pegs and top trim, one of the projects on woodworking masterclass by paul sellers, got to learn how to make sliding dovetails, it was tricky and I realised I need gents saw or something a lot finer than 13 tpi to get the angles perfect, otherwise happy with it. 



IMG_1418.jpg by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



IMG_1419.jpg by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



IMG_1421.jpg by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



IMG_1423.jpg by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## Sean33




----------



## thetyreman

hung the coat rack today, they were very happy with how it turned out, it was a good experience



Oak Coat rack on the wall 1 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



oak coat rack with clothes by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## El Barto

Looks good that. Very nice.


----------



## Raymond UK

Very nice indeed!


----------



## John15

Very nicely made Tyreman but are the pegs too stout for hanging coats by the collar tag?
John


----------



## manxnorton

A small workbench shelve.
FUGLY but It'll do the job :lol: 




Bri


----------



## MikeG.

That's not ugly at all, Bri. It's robust and utilitarian. It's what workshop shelves _should_ look like. Well done.


----------



## will1983

manxnorton":2ug93175 said:


> A small workbench shelve.
> FUGLY but It'll do the job :lol:
> Bri



I see you have an Axminster Rider Block plane to, Black Friday deal? I got mine for £15 last week!


----------



## thetyreman

John15":qwh4sci0 said:


> Very nicely made Tyreman but are the pegs too stout for hanging coats by the collar tag?
> John



thanks john, they work just fine with the hook that comes with most coats, I thought it'd be too thick myself but tried it and was pleasantly surprised.


----------



## Shaggy

A house sign for sister-in-law.
1st go at making a sign with a router and used a dremell to carve the leaves , need more practice to get the lettering a bit smoother  .

Made from a piece of Oak flooring found in a skip.


----------



## Phil79

Small tack hammer head I picked up years and years ago. Made a handle,fitted and oiled.


----------



## manxnorton

will1983":2rzhiyno said:


> manxnorton":2rzhiyno said:
> 
> 
> 
> A small workbench shelve.
> FUGLY but It'll do the job :lol:
> Bri
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see you have an Axminster Rider Block plane to, Black Friday deal? I got mine for £15 last week!
Click to expand...


Hi Will,
Wish it was £15 when I bout mine.. :lol: 
Never look at a bigger plane tbh, with only one hand.
:?: maybe a No. 4 may suit?
Bri


----------



## Phil Pascoe

A No.3 would probably suit you.


----------



## will1983

yeah a no3 might be better, a no4 still has a bit of length to it so needs downward pressure at the front to work right.


----------



## OscarG

Shaggy":wdwvh6yz said:


> A house sign for sister-in-law.
> 1st go at making a sign with a router and used a dremell to carve the leaves , need more practice to get the lettering a bit smoother  .
> 
> Made from a piece of Oak flooring found in a skip.



Very nice!

How did you do the dark parts? Is that simply painted on after you routed it out?


----------



## Shaggy

Thanks. 
Yes, routed the letters and dremmel carved the leaves. Black paint in the grooves then sanded when dry to get a neat edge.


----------



## Fitzroy

Xmas party theme is Greek monsters, decided to go as a Minotaur giving me the opportunity/necessity to make an axe. A couple of offcuts of sycamore, lots of belt sanding for the head, a bridle joint between head and handle, and a coat of danish oil. Annoyed I rushed the glue clean up and finish meaning I’ve some obvious discolouration around the joint, else please with the outcome.














Fitz.


----------



## MusicMan

Very nice Cretan double-headed axe, though the Minotaur should have just horns not an axe, and Theseus used a sword on it. Note also the dress code for the Minotaur, you'll be a hit at the party 

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=ht ... AHoECAQQBg


----------



## aramco

have to be a viking then

take care
John


----------



## Fitzroy

MusicMan":1kly5dua said:


> Very nice Cretan double-headed axe, though the Minotaur should have just horns not an axe, and Theseus used a sword on it. Note also the dress code for the Minotaur, you'll be a hit at the party
> 
> https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=ht ... AHoECAQQBg



Ah well thankfully I’m not one for historical accuracy, so I can carry my axe, and won’t scare the bejesus out of my colleagues by turning up in my birthday suit and a set of horns. 

F.


----------



## Chris152

Picture frame, 50 x 50 cm.





Not sure - looks like it's waiting for the joints to be tapped into place.


----------



## Bm101

Chris152":1fvbfgg1 said:


> Picture frame, 50 x 50 cm.
> 
> Not sure - looks like it's waiting for the joints to be tapped into place.


Like the concept and the exploration but I agree. 
If I could add anything I would recall Mr Miyagi's (paraphrased, it's been a while...) advice on karate. 

Walk left side of road. No karate. Fine. 
Walk right side of road. Do Karate. Fine.
Walk middle of road. Get squish by car. 

No gap. Fine.
Big gap. Fine.
Middle of road. Look like _cut 4 times and still too short_.






Like the way you try new things Chris. It's refreshing. 
My gut feeling (look at me go now.... Sorbonne Graduate that I am all of a sudden. I'll be wearing hats with feathers in them soon and round purple spectacles). 
Expand the gap and either match the dowel to the darker wood (maple)?. Possibly stain it very dark. Black. Or steel/copper round bar with epoxy as dowel. Edit. I just had an idea. That copper pipe for air con units/cooling machinery. 5mm
Contrast Dahhhhlink._ Contrast! _






Right I gotta go and do the washing up.  
Cheers
Chris


----------



## Hot stuff

Or, have a matching gap in the darker inset piece, on the vertical plane. 
Might work.


----------



## Chris152

I think you (and Mr Miyagi) hit the nail on the head/ upright onto the dowel, Chris - it's not enough one thing or the other, and loses it somewhere between. It's ok as a first trial, but the spaces and dowels need to be more of a feature if it can work. And chrome rods instead of dowels did occur, but I didn't have any to try. I'm also going to check out copper - that could look great against the wood?

Hot stuff - that's a nice idea and could improve the look of the frame - there's something wrong with the main structure having the spaces and the inset not having them. When I read that, I thought maybe I should have a go at altering it - then I remembered that once the picture/ mount and glass are in place, the new spaces will allow them to be seen which could look a mess. I think it'd look better as an object, but not so much as a frame. Which might well be the fundamental flaw with the whole idea!

Really appreciate your comments both, I'll bear them in mind if I try another. Meanwhile, wax on, wax off on this one, and it'll be done and I'll be a master of the martial arts...


----------



## John15

Suggestion - Remove the dark lining, refit the joints to a tight fit (if not already glued), then cut the lining to the correct dimension.

John


----------



## El Barto

A few better pics of the stool I made a little while ago...


----------



## Cordy

Maple and Walnut coffee table


----------



## thetyreman

why was the table allowed to get wet? otherwise looks good and well made


----------



## El Barto

Very interesting!


----------



## Cordy

Tyreman
The table got wet from a rain shower when I was taking photos on the lawn  
I gave the table to a neighbour
Timber is from South Plank -- reasonable price imho
Was expecting reclaimed timber, but it's not -- some interesting varieties of wood too 

They don't mind you sifting through the wood piles to select the better stuff

On the A6 just south of Garstang


----------



## sunnybob

Cordy, you SURE thats walnut? never seen walnut that red. looks like rosewood to my monitor screen.
i like it =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>


----------



## Cordy

Yes Bob it's Walnut

Must be the Ultra- violet effect we get in mytown


----------



## rxh

A repro. of a plane found at grave 702 at Bajuwarenstraße, Straubing, Bavaria, Germany, dating from the late 6th to early 7th century AD. The original was made of antler but I have made mine of yew.


----------



## AES

Wow, that looks fantastic! No idea what it would feel like in the hand, actauuly working, but it really does look brilliant. =D>


----------



## rxh

Thanks, it is quite convenient to use when you get used to the hold. An interesting feature is the iron angle of 34 degrees, which is very low for a bevel down plane. This means that the mouth opening is very large. However the front of the mouth is near to the cutting edge so the effective mouth gap is small. It works well along the grain and on end grain


----------



## AndyT

Lovely job! 
Just asking, out of the dozen or so historically significant archaeological specimens of early planes, how many have you made so far, and how many more until you have a complete set?


----------



## rxh

Thanks Andy,
This is the 5th plane (but the 4th type as I made two copies of the Sarre Saxon plane). I think the Finkum plane may be next. The Mary Rose planes are possibles too if I can obtain dimensions and good enough photos of the originals. I feel sure that the Romans would have had jack and bigger planes made of wood that haven't survived. I might make a "Roman" jack plane based on my guess of how it should look, with general dimensions similar to one of our jacks but with an "in the body" rear handle. Still a Roman bench to be made too .....


----------



## thetyreman

nice plane! yew did an excellent job.


----------



## Turnr77

I'm sure these have been featured here before but here's my Rudolph the reindeer family

1st Scroll saw version in oak 2.5 inches tall eyes and nose painted on

2nd Band saw version in laminated birch ply offcuts 7.5 inches nose turned from dowel and painted, eyes are bead headed pins

3rd double sized ply version 14 inches, eyes and nose turned from dowel and painted

Last all 3 with cat for scale


----------



## AES

Very nice. Looks like the cat is ready to eat the small - plus perhaps the middle - one/s!


----------



## MikeG.

Three stop-chamfered oak panels:


----------



## Buckeye

Bathroom cabinet using some scrap oak veneered and solid oak face frame and door panel bookmatched. My question is shoud I add some sort of quarter round bead at the bottom to help balance it. I think I made the bottom frame too big?


----------



## MikeG.

That's really nice, Buckeye. A proper piece of furniture. 'twere it me I might be tempted to plant a half or 3/4 round beaded strip around the bottom edge......but it's no big deal. It's fine as it is.


----------



## custard

MikeG.":rw7egbj5 said:


> Three stop-chamfered oak panels



Very nice work, stop chamfers just add so much visual interest to a piece.


----------



## custard

Buckeye":25wvf2wx said:


> Bathroom cabinet using some scrap oak veneered and solid oak face frame and door panel bookmatched. My question is shoud I add some sort of quarter round bead at the bottom to help balance it. I think I made the bottom frame too big?



Personally I don't think you made the bottom rail too big. It's traditional in cabinetry and in picture framing for the bottom rail to be slightly thicker than the side and the top rails (which are normally all of the same cross section). A bit of extra weight at the bottom just looks right to my eye.

You've done a really clean job, the hinges are exactly where they should be , the gapping all around the sides looks even, the grain on the stiles and rails is nice and straight (both for stability and to stop them distracting from the book matched panel), the beading's very tidy, the hardware is appropriate, the pediment is nice and bold, I could go on but you get the picture! Smashing job, exactly what many on this forum should be aspiring towards.

=D>


----------



## AndyT

Custard has said everything I would have said! Very nice indeed.


----------



## marcros

custard":2wvyil69 said:


> Personally I don't think you made the bottom rail too big. It's traditional in cabinetry and in picture framing for the bottom rail to be slightly thicker than the side and the top rails (which are normally all of the same cross section). A bit of extra weight at the bottom just looks right to my eye.
> =D>



Off topic, but how is the bottom joined on a picture frame with a larger bottom frame?


----------



## custard

marcros":1qq98l5d said:


> [Off topic, but how is the bottom joined on a picture frame with a larger bottom frame?



Excellent question! 

With a mitre that's not at 45 degrees. You can't get this at most modern framers because they're geared up with a Morso or something similar and so are locked into 45 degree cuts. But if you look at even older framers tools and devices, like the cast iron"shute" that Stanley made for their shooting plane, you see adjustable mitres were quite common. Modern picture framers put more visual weight at the bottom by having a wider matte border at the bottom, but look at first quality Victorian and Edwardian certification frames, or Arts & Crafts frames, and you'll see the bottom member is a little thicker. 

I use this device on my panel saw to bang out these eccentric mitres automatically, but there is a formula to calculate the angle.


----------



## marcros

thank you. would you do a mirror frame similarly?


----------



## custard

Sometimes, yes. Depends on how much I'm getting paid!


----------



## Marineboy

Buckeye, that is beautiful work. What finish did you use? It sets off the oak perfectly.


----------



## Buckeye

Marineboy":k9xlwrbg said:


> Buckeye, that is beautiful work. What finish did you use? It sets off the oak perfectly.



Thanks! Couple of thin coat of osmo polyx


----------



## galleywood

Inspired by Racers's design of hinges on his Peel lid box. I made this box for the stocking filler pruning knife that I gave my wife this Christmas.


----------



## AES

Ahhh, very nice too. That must have been worth a few brownie points!


----------



## Fitzroy

Shooting board, made from worktop offcut for the base with routered plane run and fence rebate. Sycamore block for the fence, two small wedges hold it tight to the front of the rebate, keeping it all square. Old woodie plane repurposed as a shooting plane, side was brought perpendicular to the base and blade sharpened straight across with no radius. All finished with some briwax to keep it sliding smoothly. 










These things always take me longer than they should. First had to remember how to use the router handheld with a fence, then had to fix the table saw sled as something had sheered. Finally when truing up the front edge of the fence rebate I had a brain fart and planed it furthur away from 90degs three times before I realised what I was doing. 

Works lovely though and I edge jointed a couple of boards and glued them up for fun, another first in my woodworking journey. 

Fitz.


----------



## MusicMan

Nice job and good use of offcuts. You might want to reposition the handle of the woodie at 45 degrees to make it more comfortable to use?


----------



## Suffolkboy

rxh":1ry14305 said:


> A repro. of a plane found at grave 702 at Bajuwarenstraße, Straubing, Bavaria, Germany, dating from the late 6th to early 7th century AD. The original was made of antler but I have made mine of yew.



That's really nice.

Really interesting too

Is there a link to a picture of the original made with Antler? What sort of dimensions is it?


----------



## Fitzroy

Not very interesting but having finished the shooting board I wanted to have a crack at edge jointing something. A couple of offcuts and I’m flabbergasted at the accuracy you can achieve using a shooting board.









Life’s all about learning and I enjoyed that!

Fitz


----------



## Just4Fun

custard":39a08mq0 said:


> marcros":39a08mq0 said:
> 
> 
> 
> [Off topic, but how is the bottom joined on a picture frame with a larger bottom frame?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent question!
> 
> With a mitre that's not at 45 degrees.
Click to expand...

I have some picture frames on my to do list so I have been thinking about this and I don't understand it. I could cut the mitre just as (in)accurately at any angle but if the bottom rail is wider it cannot be the same contour as the sides, so how does the bottom align with the sides at 45 degrees or any other angle?


----------



## will1983

Don't think I've posted this here before.

Customer commission, mono-graphed cutting board out of English ash, routered edge channel and hand carved initials.
The lettering and knot are filled with tinted epoxy and finished with 3 coats of Osmo Polyx.
The underside has 4 rubber feet.

The customer sent me the last photo of it in use, turned out rather nice i think..


----------



## thetyreman

made myself a coaster from some scraps of beech, it uses half lap joinery, hoping to make a set, this was just the prototype.


----------



## El Barto

Very nice! I can also see something like being good for making a few quid on Etsy and what have you.


----------



## thetyreman

El Barto":1jwijdal said:


> Very nice! I can also see something like being good for making a few quid on Etsy and what have you.



thanks, funny you should say that because that's what I was planning, just need to get a batch of them out asap.


----------



## aramco

Image of a colt 45 in white, grey and black corian and a Mozambique timber from stiles and bates .


----------



## stuartpaul

Just4Fun":7pcs4qzi said:


> custard":7pcs4qzi said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> marcros":7pcs4qzi said:
> 
> 
> 
> [Off topic, but how is the bottom joined on a picture frame with a larger bottom frame?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent question!
> 
> With a mitre that's not at 45 degrees.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have some picture frames on my to do list so I have been thinking about this and I don't understand it. I could cut the mitre just as (in)accurately at any angle but if the bottom rail is wider it cannot be the same contour as the sides, so how does the bottom align with the sides at 45 degrees or any other angle?
Click to expand...

A fairly standard ‘cheat’ is to increase the bottom edge of the mount by a centimetre or so. This means that the frame stays as bog standard mitres but you get the visual impression from the wider mount.


----------



## El Barto

My first chair commission: four dining chairs. Work in progress below...






I'm pleased to say that it's very comfortable, surprisingly so!


----------



## MusicMan

Looking very good!


----------



## El Barto

An all but finished chair. It'll receive a couple of coats of Osmo and some more tidying up on the arm/back. For instance, you can see where the second spindle joins the arm that there's been some nasty spelching/tearout. This was a combination of a difficult drilling angle, too much haste and general inexperience, although in some cases it just happened. Ideally I'd spokeshave thing like this away but I also run the risk of making the arm too thin. 

I was pretty much making this up as I went along; the other 3 should be much easier and quicker now I've figured out the process.






And a lil bench shot...


----------



## MikeG.

You'll just soften up the front edge of the seat, won't you? My hamstrings feel itchy just looking at that!!  Nice to see a proper chair being made in a traditional manner. Good on you for taking on the challenge.


----------



## El Barto

Ha ha, it's actually not as harsh as it looks. It's slightly rounded over so your leg isn't in such direct contact with the edge.


----------



## MikeG.

I don't think "slightly" is helping. Be bold with that spokeshave!!


----------



## thetyreman

off topic but do you not find the holdfasts ever get in the way? I ask because I've now got some now but am worried about putting an irreversible hole in the legs, if they get in the way of my real legs when planing e.t.c 

really nice chair! looks classy =D>


----------



## El Barto

That’s a good question, I actually never considered it at the time which I suppose is a good thing because they’ve yet to get in the way. Although I bet tomorrow I bash my knee into one now I’ve said that.


----------



## BigMonka

I’m stuck in the house with a broken arm at the moment so had to make a Valentines present. Came up with this idea whilst admiring planing shavings the other day and think it came out pretty well.
Two tone flower with alternating pine and sapele petals.


----------



## Jamesc

Very effective

Its too late for me to crib your idea - ahh well maybe next year


----------



## BigMonka

Half an hour with a plane, a twig, and a glue gun and you're good to go! It was surprisingly easy but I think it's quite effective as a hand-made token.


----------



## marcros

I could see that selling well.


----------



## AES

Really nice, looks very lifelike. Should be in for a brownie point or two there!


----------



## xy mosian

El Barto":1nr4k84m said:


> An all but finished chair. It'll receive a couple of coats of Osmo and some more tidying up on the arm/back. For instance, you can see where the second spindle joins the arm that there's been some nasty spelching/tearout. This was a combination of a difficult drilling angle, too much haste and general inexperience, although in some cases it just happened. Ideally I'd spokeshave thing like this away but I also run the risk of making the arm too thin.
> 
> I was pretty much making this up as I went along; the other 3 should be much easier and quicker now I've figured out the process.



That's a cracking chair. Can I ask how you jigged the arm for the drilling, and how on earth did you get the angles right?

xy


----------



## El Barto

Thanks! Here’s a photo of the jig. The mortises are laid out on the seat already, I then drill from above, lining up the arm mortises with where I think the seat mortises are. There is a bit of guesswork involved but luckily the spindles are quite forgiving and allow for a pretty wide margin of error.

Apologies that that photo uploaded sideways...


----------



## xy mosian

I'll bet that's nerve racking, to start at least! Well done, the thought of that gives me the heeby geebys just thinking of it. Basically fear of losing the work I had done already. Still fortune favours the brave and all that, and you seem to have sorted the task. Well done again.

xy


----------



## Phil Pascoe

With those pretty blue legs, you'll be able to sell to Jay Blades.


----------



## El Barto

xy mosian":2xonxsl3 said:


> I'll bet that's nerve racking, to start at least! Well done, the thought of that gives me the heeby geebys just thinking of it. Basically fear of losing the work I had done already. Still fortune favours the brave and all that, and you seem to have sorted the task. Well done again.
> 
> xy



It’s definitely not without risks, the steep angle of the back especially makes drilling and eyeballing the angles harder. I ruined two backs before finally getting it right.


----------



## Bm101

Could you make a two angle jig Bart? Just a basic guide like setting a square to get 90 deg while drilling. Something basic to sit on the seat to aid accuracy except it has 2 angles. To the rear of the seat and the side. You'd need to make 3 but just rough mdf guides. Half hour at most if you have a glue gun. Probably a daft solution.
Cheers
Chris


----------



## thetyreman

been making some very wide shelves, if it doesn't work out they'll double up as a fin for my car to make it go faster, made the brass hanging plates as well


----------



## memzey

That’s nice TM. How thick are the shelves by the way?


----------



## thetyreman

memzey":1a9xbbo7 said:


> That’s nice TM. How thick are the shelves by the way?


 
thanks, they are around 19mm 3/4" thick.


----------



## AES

The "end plates" are very "aerodynamic"! And I do like the brass work, looks very neat. How did you get it so shiny & scratch-free?


----------



## thetyreman

do you mean the brass AES? I sanded it through the grits up to 600 grit then autosol then waxed it with alphie shine, then repeated that on the screws. It wasn't easy handling an almost 2 metre long piece without dents, I should be hanging it over the next few days, going to get some help for that.


----------



## AES

Yes, I did mean the brass. Like that finish.

I'm currently doing much the same with some thin ali channel for a project - down thru the grits with W&D, then solvol autosol.

BUT I though I'd be a bit "clever" and added some liquid Brasso to the polishing mop for a 2nd go (mop is just a simple cotton mop on a mandrel in an electric drill set in a bench fixture). But I "forgot" and turned the drill on fast and got Brasso all over the place, including me! Mrs AES was NOT impressed when I appeared for dinner last night and said I stank (stunk?) like the town drain - made me change my clothes instead of just washing my hands as I "usually" (well, "often" anyway) do before din dins!

But the ali IS coming up nicely. Any idea how long it will keep that nice high gloss - ali is a known so-and-so for oxidizing in just normal air?

Anyway, thread drift, sorry, but that brass does look good. Well done.


----------



## Simo

A photo of my latest build.. Swamp Ash body with bookmatched Italian Olive top, Maple neck, Rocklite fretboard. Finished with Osmo PolyX.


----------



## MikeG.

Simo":1knavmbn said:


> A photo of my latest build.. Swamp Ash body with bookmatched Italian Olive top, Maple neck, Rocklite fretboard. Finished with Osmo PolyX.



Got a photo of the other side? I want to see what swamp ash looks like.


----------



## Simo

MikeG.":fl9j9rqk said:


> Got a photo of the other side? I want to see what swamp ash looks like.



Sure, no problem. It looks as you'd expect Ash to look, it's just much lighter in weight than you're typical English or White Ash (if I remember correctly ''Swamp Ash'' is another term for Green Ash).


----------



## MikeG.

Nice. I like ash, and I like your guitar.


----------



## Bm101

No idea what it's called. Sorry. But Simo the way you have matched the grain pattern to the shaping of the body on the bottom section is masterful. (hammer)


----------



## screwpainting

Simo":1m2xdsg4 said:


> A photo of my latest build.. Swamp Ash body with bookmatched Italian Olive top, Maple neck, Rocklite fretboard. Finished with Osmo PolyX.



Don't let Pete Townsend near it when he's pineappled :lol: far too nice, love it.


----------



## OM99

Oak, Sapele and iroko box for my chess pieces. All unpluged except for the hinge and magnet holes used a drill press for that. Finished with liberon special pale french polish and briwax.


----------



## El Barto

Bm101":sqlcjyc4 said:


> Could you make a two angle jig Bart? Just a basic guide like setting a square to get 90 deg while drilling. Something basic to sit on the seat to aid accuracy except it has 2 angles. To the rear of the seat and the side. You'd need to make 3 but just rough mdf guides. Half hour at most if you have a glue gun. Probably a daft solution.
> Cheers
> Chris



Yes I think there are probably a few ways to make drilling easier that I'll need to try out next time! Will give yours a go too.


----------



## Cordy

Chalk board and chair for Grand-Daughter
Table is about 15 inches high
Chair is Pine and Walnut


----------



## thetyreman

made a simple plynth, this is just to raise a metal filing cabinet above the floor/skirting, it technically doesn't matter how it looks but I used some nice knot free pine.


----------



## thetyreman

I was supposed to just make one but got carried away :lol: here are some coasters, I made 2 out of douglas fir, 2 ash, 2 beech, 1 maple, 1 walnut, 1 oak, it's just a lap joint in the centre, good practise, if there's any wind or twist the cup doesn't sit without rocking. They could also be a medieval christian cross as well so they repel evil just by using them under your cups, cheers.


----------



## Lons

Pen in a nice chunk of chestnut burr.


----------



## manxnorton

Just finishe my take on a epoxy resin live edge chopping board.
hope you like.
Bri.





Part 3 the finish can be found:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zghRjnm ... e=youtu.be


----------



## Doris

Henri the rocking hippo. Complete with moving jaw and bird cleaning it's teeth with a toothbrush (upon the customers request - I still don't know why) 

[youtube]c2ecJuedl-I[/youtube]


----------



## Bm101

I'd be so tempted to sand out the marks but it would end up looking terrible. You have a great style and an eye for when to stop.
Great job as always.
Genuine question Doris.
Why do you never paint eyes on?


----------



## Bm101

Also. I'm out of Jam. Just saying.


----------



## Doris

Bm101":bt2wzuv1 said:


> You have a great style and an eye for when to stop.
> Great job as always.
> Genuine question Doris.
> Why do you never paint eyes on?



Thank you. I originally never put eyes on my carvings because I had done all this work on the form only to ruin it at the last second when I went and put wonky eyes on. So I decided not to and I find myself that you then look at the whole form rather than just the features. We humans are good at looking at (and judging) people by their features and I felt I wanted to challenge that. 

The lady who commissioned me to make this for her granddaughter insisted on eyes but I refused. She then I later found out asked her other granddaughter to put eyes on using a permanent marker. Something which I'm rather miffed about but I was paid for it so have to disown it.


----------



## Doris

Drop me a PM if you want anymore jam btw [WINKING FACE]


----------



## Dave72D

Very new to woodworking but have just finished this coffee table.


----------



## Bm101

Doris":2n6hjr6i said:


> Drop me a PM if you want anymore jam btw [WINKING FACE]


I'd take you up on that but the kids polished it off so fast I didn't get any 
anyway! Thanks though, the very little I tasted was lovely. =D>


----------



## D.Stephenson

Most recent interesting thing I’ve made, a mini workbench with a Roubo style split top. Adding some much needed storage/workspace while at the same time using up some off cuts that have been hanging around for years and testing out my new Xl domino!






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gbrwn315

Lons":278rk21d said:


> Made this set yesterday


That a great set, can I ask where you got the kits from please?


----------



## MikeG.

Dave72D":3hb3p500 said:


> Very new to woodworking but have just finished this coffee table.



Well done Dave. That's an ambitious project for a newcomer to woodworking. You should be very proud.


----------



## aramco

This is the latest thing I made as an experiment on the scroll saw


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

My gran passed away nearly a month ago and I volunteered to make the casket/urn for her ashes. A lot of heart and soul went into this project. Maple, walnut and acid etched stainless steel plate. A lot of lessons learnt on this one, and also first time using my new photo tent thing


----------



## DTR

That's a beautiful box, Sawdust, but how sad you had to make it in these circumstances. My condolences to you


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Thank you!


----------



## custard

Excellent work S=M, and a fine tribute in itself.


----------



## Bm101

Lovely Sawdust and for the best possible purpose. Making something special for someone you valued and held dear. Without gabbing on too much, is there a better reason? 
What did you use as an acid etch blank if you don't mind me asking? 
Best regards, 
Chris


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Thanks Chris. I’ve gone through my trial and error in this post...

does-anyone-here-have-a-vinyl-cutter-plotter-t116635-15.html

But in short its a 1.5mm thick stainless steel plate (from ebay) and i used the laserjet printer method. Not perfect or a deep enough etch to my satisfaction, but i did my best and the family are pleased which is the main thing. If i was etching aluminium or brass in this method i have no doubt that it would etch deeper/quicker


----------



## Bm101

Crikey, I saw that post and thought it was some lazor eyed router robot arm project that would go completely over my head!  
Thanks. I will take a look fella. Thanks for the reply too. Much appreciated. I have a had a couple of goes, wasn't satisfied, put to one side. I'd love to get it sorted.
Cheers
Chris


----------



## thetyreman

made some outdoor steps, the pics are before I varnished it with le tonkinois, luckily I managed to put two layers on before it starting raining like it is doing now! got some more varnishing to do when it gets dry, a lot of work went into this.


----------



## Bm101

I really admire your dedication Ben. 
Hope they work out for your parents (if I remember right).
Well done. Joinery is bang on as always.
Still not sure it's the entirely the best solution in relation to materials but that's not for me to say. 
Regards
Chris


----------



## craigs

A pair of basic boxes, ABW & Curly Birch and Zebrano & Maple.


----------



## AES

A very nice pair of boxes, something to be proud of Sir. I must say that I prefer the darker wood rather than the "stripey", but that's purely a matter of personal taste. BOTH look very well made indeed (and I DID enlarge the pix as big as they'd go).


----------



## craigs

I thank you sir, I also prefer the darker one, and Zebrano is a pipper to work with as it seems brittle and like to blow out and splinter. Id love a bandsaw to make bigger panels instead of having to intentionally use the tablesaw to resaw smaller widths, but i just don't have the space


----------



## AES

Oh. Have you seen the little Makita band saw - table top? It's in our stores here (Switzerland) and am pretty sure it will be available in UK?

I have a cheapo Einhell band saw of similar size to the Makita - it's bolted to the other end of a mobile bench/table thingy with my scroll saw bolted to the other end. I wouldn't recommend the Einhell to anyone though, but as said, it's a similar size to the Makita (which I've seen in a local dealer here). It looks very nice compared to my Einhell, but then at 3 times the price it should do! But with a decent Tuffsaws blade and set up courtesy of Steve Maskery's band saw DVD the Einhell does do the job (WITH care)!


----------



## craigs

The only one I can see in the UK isn't a benchtop, it's the 1200 which comes in at 82Kgs :/ and not glowing reviews. review-of-makita-lb1200f-305mm-12-bandsaw-t97885.html.

My biggest problem as I said is space, I literally have a 7x7 resin shed which contains an MFT, Bosch XC10, Makita LS1019l, Small dust extractor, makita thicknesser and a tiny amount of storage. Then inside the house in the cupboard under the stairs I keep all my systainers and finish stuff. Renting a house I can't build a workshop so im looking to buy a new house with room for a decent sized garage or purpose built shop. Everything in the shed is big and heavy enough not to get pinched 

I don't think the wife would be impressed with a bandsaw in the living room....some people can be soo selfish


----------



## memzey

An end grain chopping board for Mrs. memzey. 12” x 20” x 2 1/2”. Made of Sapele, beech and Keruing:


----------



## AES

@memzey: nice cutting board mate.

@craigsalisbury: Sorry, my fault! Search for Metabo BAS 261 - NOT Makita (in my "defence" they do both start with "M")!!!!

Edit forP.S: Can't see why the Missus should object to a band saw in the living room craig - especially if it produced stuff like your boxes, above, or memzey's cutting board. What's the matter with the woman?


----------



## memzey

Cheers Andy. There’s no denying that women can be the most peculiar of creatures, although no doubt they could say the same of men as well! Anyway funnily enough the bandsaw was one machine that wasn’t used on that chopping board. Plenty of action for the table saw, planer thicknesser and radial arm saw though, along with hand tools!


----------



## craigs

A damn fine cutting board, I haven't made any end grain ones yet, but when i do make cutting boards they seem to disappear off to other peoples houses before i get a chance to use any.

I'm thinking whether I could disguise a bandsaw by putting a mirror in front of it or something. Before I had the small shed, I had the MFT in the dining room with a mitre saw and thicknesser tucked underneath and within 5 minutes it had a tablecloth and a vase of flowers plonked on it....so anythings possible i guess.


----------



## Bm101

craigsalisbury":3ds69nos said:


> I'm thinking whether I could disguise a bandsaw by putting a mirror in front of it or something.


Lmao! Brilliant.

*whispers... Psssst Get an Inca! Bluetack a lightbulb to it and stick it on the mantlepiece. Tell your Mrs its an Art Installation. Always best to hide in plain sight.


----------



## woodbloke66

Moxon vic using the Benchraft kit from CHT











Made from 45mm thick Euro Oak - Rob


----------



## craigs

Bm101":1ixz3xi2 said:


> craigsalisbury":1ixz3xi2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking whether I could disguise a bandsaw by putting a mirror in front of it or something.
> 
> 
> 
> Lmao! Brilliant.
> 
> *whispers... Psssst Get an Inca! Bluetack a lightbulb to it and stick it on the mantlepiece. Tell your Mrs its an Art Installation. Always best to hide in plain sight.
Click to expand...


cover it in fairy lights and call it an aussie christmas tree


----------



## craigs

AES":2tr3yxiq said:


> @memzey: nice cutting board mate.
> 
> @craigsalisbury: Sorry, my fault! Search for Metabo BAS 261 - NOT Makita (in my "defence" they do both start with "M")!!!!



I havent head anything good about Metabo products, but ill look into it, cheers


----------



## Blackswanwood

woodbloke66":1qpm7cat said:


> Moxon vic using the Benchraft kit from CHT
> 
> 
> Made from 45mm thick Euro Oak - Rob



I have been tempted to invest in a moxon vice Rob - are you pleased with it?


----------



## AES

OK craig, I'm not a Matabo owner myself, but their stuff generally gets good write ups here. That's about all I can say, except that the model I referenced will fit on a table top. I'm thinking of looking at one myself, to get rid of my pretty horrid Einhell, but it won't be any time soon, so can't say anything further, sorry.


----------



## craigs

AES":26k814rf said:


> OK craig, I'm not a Matabo owner myself, but their stuff generally gets good write ups here. That's about all I can say, except that the model I referenced will fit on a table top. I'm thinking of looking at one myself, to get rid of my pretty horrid Einhell, but it won't be any time soon, so can't say anything further, sorry.




Don't be sorry man, I thank you and welcome recommendations, I did have a quick look into this specific saw and it doesn't have the capacity i need (im chasing a unicorn).


----------



## woodbloke66

Blackswanwood":1cmra205 said:


> woodbloke66":1cmra205 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Moxon vic using the Benchraft kit from CHT
> 
> 
> Made from 45mm thick Euro Oak - Rob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been tempted to invest in a moxon vice Rob - are you pleased with it?
Click to expand...

I just finished it this afternoon, so haven't used it yet. It's a heavy, chunky wee beastie so I need to be a bit careful cramping it to the bench top; the handwheels spin very freely on the spindles and it certainly grips anything put between the jaws. The trickiest part of the build is making the elongated holes in the front jaw. I tried to do them first of all using an old 19mm Forstner bit but ended up with holes which were skewed and off centre so I had to plug them, using some epoxy glue. I then routed them out with a 19.5mm bit which was a lot more accurate and didn't take too long either...should have done it that way in the first place (hammer) . Once the cock-up had been sorted out the rest of the build was a pretty straight forward exercise. I used some polyurethane glue...







...for the first time today and tried it in the vacuum bag to glue the lining to the front jaw. A bit OTT, but it seemed to stick  - Rob


----------



## MusicMan

Memzey, nice board. I've made a few small end grain ones myself, nothing to approach yours, but enough to know it is tricky to do them as well as you have. And a very elegant design.

keith


----------



## memzey

Thanks MM. It is the first one I’ve ever made so lots for me to learn while doing it. Being so chunky and predominantly end grain created lots of challenges but I’m glad I made it. Mrs. memzey thought it was too thick at first but she likes it now too. The design was largely informed by the stock I had available so I can’t take too much credit for that I’m afraid! Oh and you wouldn’t believe how much oil that thing soaked up before it was charged - almost a whole pint!


----------



## Garno

Totally ashamed of my work.






This started off as a mallet and ended up looking more like Thor's Hammer.
I originally tried to cut out a hole in the centre to allow for the handle to go through, I drilled it out best I could and tried to then chisel it. I was using the chisels kindly given to me by Racers, I thought they were sharp but had very little impression on the wood. No idea what the wood is but I have known house bricks to be softer. I ended up cutting out the hole and have sort of patched up the mallet so it looks sort of like a mallet.






ordered new chisels, hopefully that will work out.


----------



## thetyreman

no need to be ashamed garno, that looks like oak and pine, you need ultra sharp chisels for those woods, I think you did a good job anyway, mallets are always handy, I have yet to make one.


----------



## custard

Garno":2tppt7wk said:


> Totally ashamed of my work.



That's not right Garno. You're one of the few that picked up your tools and actually got stuck into making stuff. So as far as I'm concerned you're already way ahead of all the armchair warriors who bang on and on but never actually make anything.

Plus I bet your mallet can still deliver a mighty whack, so what's not to like?


----------



## memzey

custard":2tf40gww said:


> Garno":2tf40gww said:
> 
> 
> 
> Totally ashamed of my work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's not right Garno. You're one of the few that picked up your tools and actually got stuck into making stuff. So as far as I'm concerned *you're already way ahead of all the armchair warriors who bang on and on but never actually make anything*.
> 
> Plus I bet your mallet can still deliver a mighty whack, so what's not to like?
Click to expand...

This. All day long this. 

Waffling on about stuff from behind a keyboard is a doddle. Actually _making_ something takes time, planning, courage and determination not to mention skill. Well done you for doing so and for sharing your outcomes on here.


----------



## woodbloke66

memzey":jpcsnxk4 said:


> Waffling on about stuff from behind a keyboard is a doddle. Actually _making_ something takes time, planning, courage and determination not to mention skill. Well done you for doing so and for sharing your outcomes on here.



Absolutely agreed M but I'd add the occasional cock-up and in my case, lots of cock-ups to that list :lol: - Rob


----------



## Garno

Thanks guys,
Hearing/reading those kind words and encouragement from my peers mean a lot.

Thank you.


----------



## Bm101

I'm still baffled as to how you manage to make it stick to to your PC. :shock: 
*mumbles only the pure can pick up mjolnir* into hand and looks nervous. (hammer) 
Great work Garno. Will serve you for years. It's a mallet mate get bangin'!


----------



## Racers

Rosewood Spokeshave

I made the body and the blade, bought some knobs but they are far too silly to stay on, I need to get the metal lathe out of the shed!



Rosewood Spokeshave by Racers, on Flickr



Rosewood Spokeshave by Racers, on Flickr

In action on some cherry.



Rosewood Spokeshave by Racers, on Flickr

An end grain cherry shaving!



Rosewood Spokeshave by Racers, on Flickr

Pete


----------



## memzey

woodbloke66":fd9e7syn said:


> memzey":fd9e7syn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Waffling on about stuff from behind a keyboard is a doddle. Actually _making_ something takes time, planning, courage and determination not to mention skill. Well done you for doing so and for sharing your outcomes on here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely agreed M but I'd add the occasional cock-up and in my case, lots of cock-ups to that list :lol: - Rob
Click to expand...

Lol! If it’s cock-ups we’re comparing Rob I’m up there with the best of them I assure you! There was one item I made a couple of years ago that was so hideous and out of proportion the only name it went by in my household was unmentionable on here! It took almost a year of persuading before my wife let me make something else for the house, which was quite a setback, so when I say it “it takes courage to make” I mean it from personal experience. 

Actually this makes me think that between the last item I made and posted on here (daughter’s box/chest) and that chopping board, I’ve made a few other things without publishing them here. Purely because publishing well written and thought out posts with photos takes time. Making well designed and executed items of furniture takes time. With a career, wife and three young children in tow, I don’t have enough time to do both. Personally I’d much rather mess about In front of my bench than behind my keyboard - I spend enough time using one of those at work!


----------



## Bm101

Racers":2g7cpojj said:


> Rosewood Spokeshave
> Pete



Usual standards Mr Maddex. Agree on the knobs if you don't mind me saying. I like the angular lines of it. It's interesting.


----------



## AES

Very nice looking tool Mr. Maddex, good enough to hang on the wall as "art". But as it works so well (from the shavings pictures) then you have a double-wammy there!


----------



## Racers

Thanks chaps.

A couple of slimmer brass knobs would set it off a treat.

Pete


----------



## AES

You could cut them off with a fine tooth hack saw (32 TPI) or jewellers' saw then finish off with a smooth file. That would save getting the lathe out (but, not being cheeky, 'onest Guv, what's it doing being packed away in the 1st place)?


----------



## Racers

No space I only have a single garage it’s the length of the house but I have filled it! 

Pete


----------



## Garno

Racers":2c1i7kr7 said:


> No space I only have a single garage it’s the length of the house but I have filled it!
> 
> Pete




I have visited Pete's house last year and can vouch that the garage is indeed full


----------



## SMALMALEKI

I have recently built a bed for my son. I have only used few screws to support the glue line of secondary rails( slays support). 
The sides are connected to headboard and footboard with hidden dovetails and locked with wedges.


----------



## Racers

SMALMALEKI":2aisgfnx said:


> I have recently built a bed for my son. I have only used few screws to support the glue line of secondary rails( slays support).
> The sides are connected to headboard and footboard with hidden dovetails and locked with wedges.



Looks very nice. 
I made beds for both my sons when they where young 

Pete


----------



## Bodgers

SMALMALEKI":2ly2xq4k said:


> I have recently built a bed for my son. I have only used few screws to support the glue line of secondary rails( slays support).
> The sides are connected to headboard and footboard with hidden dovetails and locked with wedges.


Looks like an Ikea base?


----------



## SMALMALEKI

I like the simplicity of it.


----------



## will1983

Not the last thing I've made, this was actually a few weeks ago but thought I'd show you anyway.

The frame is pressure treated 4x1 boards planed and glued up to form half lap joints and then clad externally in feather edge boards.












The 4x4 hinge post is bolted to the corner of the house but the customer's neighbour wouldn't allow the latch post to be bolted to her property so this had to be concreted instead.


----------



## SMALMALEKI

Bodgers":2swx7jzn said:


> SMALMALEKI":2swx7jzn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have recently built a bed for my son. I have only used few screws to support the glue line of secondary rails( slays support).
> The sides are connected to headboard and footboard with hidden dovetails and locked with wedges.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like an Ikea base?
Click to expand...


The original idea was taken from a Canadian woodworker ( https://youtu.be/PNT7BjPPnzc). The base is a solid laminated sheet. I was advised to avoid solid base due to lack of ventilation. I used IkEA base for it.


----------



## sammy.se

Sorry if this is a basic question - but how do you mean 'hidden dovetails'? I can see through tenons, but not sure where you have used the dovetails... cheers.


----------



## SMALMALEKI

Dovetail is used in the part of tenon inside the mortise. The wedges are locking the joint in. It provided stronger joint and can be disassembled easily.

Simple tenon and mortise has a weakness they can be pulled back if not secured in any other way. 

I hope this picture is explanatory enough. 

Regards


----------



## rafezetter

memzey":3ovylm0m said:


> An end grain chopping board for Mrs. memzey. 12” x 20” x 2 1/2”. Made of Sapele, beech and Keruing:



Nice work, though why am I reminded of "space invaders"?


----------



## rafezetter

SMALMALEKI":sdlxj494 said:


> Dovetail is used in the part of tenon inside the mortise. The wedges are locking the joint in. It provided stronger joint and can be disassembled easily.
> 
> Simple tenon and mortise has a weakness they can be pulled back if not secured in any other way.
> 
> I hope this picture is explanatory enough.
> 
> Regards



So the bottom of the mortise is also angled to match? Very clever and sturdier than the way I did mine which was long bolts through the headboard legs and nuts in the rails, one has already blown out through *ahem* activity, and the other is at risk of stripping the thread.


----------



## memzey

rafezetter":3d2rcls4 said:


> memzey":3d2rcls4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> An end grain chopping board for Mrs. memzey. 12” x 20” x 2 1/2”. Made of Sapele, beech and Keruing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work, though why am I reminded of "space invaders"?
Click to expand...

Lol! Now that you mention it I know exactly what you mean :shock:


----------



## SMALMALEKI

rafezetter":1i4yq0k1 said:


> SMALMALEKI":1i4yq0k1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Dovetail is used in the part of tenon inside the mortise. The wedges are locking the joint in. It provided stronger joint and can be disassembled easily.
> 
> Simple tenon and mortise has a weakness they can be pulled back if not secured in any other way.
> 
> I hope this picture is explanatory enough.
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the bottom of the mortise is also angled to match? Very clever and sturdier than the way I did mine which was long bolts through the headboard legs and nuts in the rails, one has already blown out through *ahem* activity, and the other is at risk of stripping the thread.
Click to expand...

 That’s right. I have made couple of different mortises but it was the first mortise which needed to be easy to take apart. Therefore there was no option to secure it permanently. It was not my own idea.


----------



## Kidneycutter

Made this today out of some ash I milled sometime ago. Not sure about the through pegs or what wood I'm going to use for the frame.


----------



## MarkDennehy

An officemate went on holiday to Peru of all places a while back and his return date was April 1. And he left his coffee mug unsecured. So this is all on him, you understand. 

http://www.stochasticgeometry.ie/2019/0 ... ing-a-mug/


----------



## Garno

This is my attempt at a tray.
Whilst it may look a simple job to a lot of you, I was plagued with problems from the word go.
All of this has been done with hand tools.
For some reason a few black spots have appeared on the fences, they are not nail heads as no nails were used, I have no idea what they are.






I had problems getting the base of the tray "Flat" and literally spent hours sanding it to try and get a level surface on both sides. I have it as good as it can be now with no rocking what-so-ever.






Next I had a brain melt, For the life of me I could not fathom out where to measure from when doing half housing joints. Thanks go to Jacob for his explanations.







I still made a big mistake, or should I say I learnt a big lesson, I used the first cut out as a guide for the second one which resulted in the joint being too loose. So I went back to the marking gauge and did the rest "properly".







My second joint was so-so and joints 3 and 4 were a little too tight, so out came Thor my mighty mallet that I made a couple of weeks ago. I sharpened up my new chisels and gave pairing (or parring) a go. Pleased with how the 2 joints ended up but not sure if I was just lucky. Never having chiseled anything before I was not even sure what side the chisel should be on the wood, bevel side or flat side, too embarrassed to ask.







Joined the fence together and I was over the moon when I used the set square on the inside as it was bang on square, actually I show everyone who has been at my house just how square 






I drew around the fence onto the tray base inside and out and marked where the screws would go and used a drill to pilot holes and countersink. Sorry that was the only power tool I used.






I then screwed on the fence and learnt my second valuable lesson. I had forgot to chamfer the base edges. So back out with the sand paper to put chamfers on top and bottom, sadly it did not look crisp so I tried to remove the edges from the ends to make it blend in a little, not really happy with the result.







I hope you have enjoyed this as much as I have enjoyed making the tray, we all started somewhere and I am happy to share with you all my starting point.
Thank you for reading
Gary


----------



## MikeG.

Lots of lessons there, Gary. The result looks fine, and you know how you would tackle it slightly differently next time. Experience in the bank.......

PS Why were you flattening with sandpaper and not a plane?


----------



## Garno

MikeG.":2nqgqljc said:


> Lots of lessons there, Gary. The result looks fine, and you know how you would tackle it slightly differently next time. Experience in the bank.......
> 
> PS Why were you flattening with sandpaper and not a plane?




I dont own a plane  I will get one next month


----------



## AES

@Garno (Gary): Does it look like a tray? Does it work like a tray? Does it also look attractive? To me, the answer to all these Qs is a definite YES! Therefore = "SUCCESS"! Well done mate  

And just as said above, as you've learnt lessons along the way, which you can apply to the next "whatever it is", you're better off (in know how) than when you first started. What's not to like - and IMO, what this making stuff malarkey is all about.


----------



## SMALMALEKI

I have just built my first Moxon Vise. The veg tan leather looks good on the jaw face.


----------



## thetyreman

already posted this before but it's now finished with 4 layers of Le Tonkinois Marine no1 Varnish. Very Happy with how it's turned out considering!



Finished Outdoor Steps 1 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Finished Outdoor Steps 2 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Finished Outdoor Steps 3 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Finished Outdoor Steps 4 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Finished Outdoor Steps 5 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Finished Outdoor Steps 6 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## AndyT

Double through tenons?
I never really thought you'd use lag bolts into end grain like I probably would have.


----------



## thetyreman

AndyT":39faeho3 said:


> Double through tenons?
> I never really thought you'd use lag bolts into end grain like I probably would have.



yes through tenons with diagonal wedges (just for fun)

I also had to add a screw through the sides into the stair edge where it meets the sides as it was coming apart in the outdoor weather, used coach screws underneath, it was the best solution in my opinion because 1. it's concrete and 2. it's adjustable, surprised by how solid it feels once set up correctly.


----------



## El Barto

Looks great! The bolts are a smart idea.


----------



## thetyreman

El Barto":2bq1p6q0 said:


> Looks great! The bolts are a smart idea.



I nicked it from samurai carpenter


----------



## J-G

A few weeks ago I saw a piece of Swedish Glass on the Antiques Road Show which really took my eye so I decided to make something similar but in wood.

The original of course didn't have a 'lid' but I am known for my love of 'hidden' catches so a closed 'box' made absolute sense to me. The lid is released by squeezing the eyes.

The main structure is 100mm cube made from Walnut, Pink Ivory and Ebony.

This is the first of this year's Christmas presents  I'm now in the process of making another three at 75mm cube using African Padauk with Ebony/Maple beaks and Walnut wings


----------



## John Brown

thetyreman":2oyktr48 said:


> already posted this before but it's now finished with 4 layers of Le Tonkinois Marine no1 Varnish. Very Happy with how it's turned out considering!
> 
> 
> 
> Finished Outdoor Steps 1 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Finished Outdoor Steps 2 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Finished Outdoor Steps 3 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Finished Outdoor Steps 4 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Finished Outdoor Steps 5 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Finished Outdoor Steps 6 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


Is it OK to have that much of the tread projecting unsupported?
This is a genuine question, I "rebuilt"(more like remade from scratch) a wooden umpire's chair for my tennis club a month ago, and I was concerned about the overhang at the front of the treads.


----------



## SMALMALEKI

Another small project completed. I built myself a plane cabinet. Joined with dovetail joints. Back board is pine, shelves are made out of pine. The groves for the shelves have a fine sloop backward. Finished with boiled linseed oil. Hung from wall with cleats.


----------



## Bm101

That's showbizz.


----------



## thetyreman

John Brown":30ka8drj said:


> thetyreman":30ka8drj said:
> 
> 
> 
> already posted this before but it's now finished with 4 layers of Le Tonkinois Marine no1 Varnish. Very Happy with how it's turned out considering!
> 
> 
> 
> Finished Outdoor Steps 1 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Finished Outdoor Steps 2 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Finished Outdoor Steps 3 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Finished Outdoor Steps 4 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Finished Outdoor Steps 5 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Finished Outdoor Steps 6 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> Is it OK to have that much of the tread projecting unsupported?
> This is a genuine question, I "rebuilt"(more like remade from scratch) a wooden umpire's chair for my tennis club a month ago, and I was concerned about the overhang at the front of the treads.
Click to expand...


it's not ideal no, my design is nowhere near perfect, I would make a newel post if I did it again, and have thicker tenons for the posts and probably have a lot more of them, it doesn't move as much as you'd expect though but you are right to point it out.


----------



## thick_mike

J-G":26afheas said:


> A few weeks ago I saw a piece of Swedish Glass on the Antiques Road Show which really took my eye so I decided to make something similar but in wood.
> 
> The original of course didn't have a 'lid' but I am known for my love of 'hidden' catches so a closed 'box' made absolute sense to me. The lid is released by squeezing the eyes.
> 
> The main structure is 100mm cube made from Walnut, Pink Ivory and Ebony.
> 
> This is the first of this year's Christmas presents  I'm now in the process of making another three at 75mm cube using African Padauk with Ebony/Maple beaks and Walnut wings



Very cute.

Maybe give it a red breast for a Christmas flavour. It is very robin-like in dimensions already.


----------



## J-G

thick_mike":2xad0cdq said:


> Very cute.
> 
> Maybe give it a red breast for a Christmas flavour. It is very robin-like in dimensions already.


Thanks Mike, I did toy with a number of ideas regarding use of different woods to make it more specific bird like but decided in the end - well with this prototype - to stick with walnut all round.

My original thought was to make the beak yellow but since I didn't have any natural yellow timber on hand went with black. The three smaller ones I'm making will have Black & Yellow beaks using African Blackwood and Beach which will be stained using Liberon water based stain.


----------



## El Barto

A little plane hammer I made earlier. It was very simple - five mins on the lathe for the head, ten mins with a spokeshave for the handle, glued and wedged with hide glue then given some linseed oil. Made from leadwood and oak.






I've wanted one of these for a while and although it doesn't really matter, I've been adjusting my planes with a steel pin hammer and each time it makes me cringe a bit hitting the iron with something metal.


----------



## D_W

I think I already posted this on the HT side, and it was several months ago now. but I've got about half a dozen guitars in the works, and a cabinet that I'm finishing, so I haven't really gotten anything "done" other than making a couple of small tools that I've used on those projects. 

Telecaster style guitar, spruce (from a billet I found on ebay) and cherry neck, sawn out of a table top slab that I found (it's nice to have big wood to saw guitar bits out of so that you can get ideal grain orientation. Fingerboard resawn out of a piece of birdseye maple that I bought for the purpose. Birdseye could be a little more intense, but the spruce guitar blank is divine, worked reasonably well and there was enough thickness for me to resaw off a nice piece of spruce to make a parlor acoustic out of. 

Most of the work done by hand. I did use a template to do the roughing of the cavities with a router, and set the outside profile, but I'm not good enough with power tools to make finished neck pockets, etc, with a router and just trim them out with planemaking tools to get a good fit.

Finish is varnish. i made the varnish (pine/dammar resin with flaxseed oil and turpentine). No more varnish on guitars - a true varnish with no driers takes way too long to get past being reactive.


----------



## will1983

Latest client job installed this weekend.

Alcove face frame, lower shelf, doors and top from 18mm Medite MDF designed to hide an ugly electricity meter and consumer unit.

There is a structural face frame behind the fancy fluted side panels. Doors are hung on Blum soft close overlay hinges. 

Finish is primer only, sprayed with the Graco airless. The Client will do the top coats themselves when they do the rest of the woodwork in the room.

Total build time was 5 hours in the workshop (incl filling, sanding and spraying) with 4 hours on site.

I'm happy and so is the Client, expecting a call back in a week or two for a matching unit on the other side of the fireplace and some nice complicated wardrobes in the attic.


----------



## thick_mike

made a low oak bench for the hallway to sit on while putting my shoes on. All done with hand tools, now I have biceps like popeye. Legs would have been so much easier if I had a lathe.


----------



## Bm101

I love everything about that Mike. (hammer)


----------



## custard

D_W":aiwz5zhk said:


> Telecaster style guitar, spruce (from a billet I found on ebay) and cherry neck, sawn out of a table top slab that I found (it's nice to have big wood to saw guitar bits out of so that you can get ideal grain orientation. Fingerboard resawn out of a piece of birdseye maple that I bought for the purpose. Birdseye could be a little more intense, but the spruce guitar blank is divine, worked reasonably well and there was enough thickness for me to resaw off a nice piece of spruce to make a parlor acoustic out of.



Superb job!

=D> 


Spruce is a beautiful timber, bit soft for furniture but I'm seeing increasing numbers of makers use Spruce for delicate pieces of furniture that won't see too much abuse. Not suitable for homes with small boys or big dogs, but for everyone else it's ideal!


----------



## custard

thick_mike":3ey5cgqm said:


> made a low oak bench for the hallway



Very nice design, in particular I really like the bold chamfers around the edges.

=D>


----------



## thick_mike

custard":tredx9gv said:


> thick_mike":tredx9gv said:
> 
> 
> 
> made a low oak bench for the hallway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice design, in particular I really like the bold chamfers around the edges.
> 
> =D>
Click to expand...


Cheers Custard. The plank is 2” thick, so I thought the chamfers would lighten it visually, and physically.


----------



## whiskywill

thick_mike":11wq8dxr said:


> made a low oak bench for the hallway to sit on while putting my shoes on. All done with hand tools, now I have biceps like popeye. Legs would have been so much easier if I had a lathe.



Very nice but not keen on those footplates at the bottom of the legs.


----------



## John15

Very nice indeed Mike. The wedged leg joint showing through on the top surface is a nice feature.

John


----------



## D_W

custard":gi5xqqrh said:


> D_W":gi5xqqrh said:
> 
> 
> 
> Telecaster style guitar, spruce (from a billet I found on ebay) and cherry neck, sawn out of a table top slab that I found (it's nice to have big wood to saw guitar bits out of so that you can get ideal grain orientation. Fingerboard resawn out of a piece of birdseye maple that I bought for the purpose. Birdseye could be a little more intense, but the spruce guitar blank is divine, worked reasonably well and there was enough thickness for me to resaw off a nice piece of spruce to make a parlor acoustic out of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Superb job!
> 
> =D>
> 
> 
> Spruce is a beautiful timber, bit soft for furniture but I'm seeing increasing numbers of makers use Spruce for delicate pieces of furniture that won't see too much abuse. Not suitable for homes with small boys or big dogs, but for everyone else it's ideal!
Click to expand...


Thanks, Custard. Generally, the spruce sold over here is low quality and low density, though I'm sure you can get some at a boat yard. 

I haunt ebay for guitar blanks - for whatever reason, they're cheaper than I could get the lumber to make a blank, and this one was $50 dead quartered, already glued into a large enough blank to use for the body and cut off a section for a small parlor acoustic. resawn off, that is. 

The key to this one, and many more than the seller is offering is that it's uncommonly dense, but it still has some of that softness in the early wood. I was shooting for a 6-7 pound guitar and didn't quite believe the seller's weight quote, but he was right (he said these were salvage logs that had sunk - a popular thing over here now) - it is about as heavy as good quality cherry and made for a guitar just north of 8 guitars despite thinning the body below fender's spec. At any rate, it makes a wonderful guitar, and I put a pretty large roundover on the back and bound the top to protect it from splintering. 

I was on a guitar board for a little bit, but couldn't hack the attitude of the folks there. "I don't know why you'd get spruce, you can't plane it, it'll be too soft, it'll splinter, it's hard to work with". It planes beautifully. First time I've worked with good stuff (sitka in this case), in resawing it, the late wood stripes were uncommonly hard to go with the soft early wood and it really felt funny with the frame saw. 

Of course, in the end, being that the density is similar to heavier alder or cherry or anything else that makes a decent solid body guitar.....it sounds the same as anything else. 

I fancy the idea of making one out of marshmallow density quartered pine if I can find some decent, but the neck joint on these is four screws and there isn't really that much there - probably asking for trouble. 

Price here that I saw for good clear quartered spruce (that would be less dense) was around $10-$12 a board foot (about three times the price of cherry). It would make for monstrously expensive soft furniture!! Making a guitar with a heavier harder piece is sort of gaming it but a couple of hundred board feet of something this density would be interesting to play with. The common solid body guitar makers are spoiled by mahogany and alder and don't know how to deal with anything that you can't just hack off with a knife and still have no tearout. I got myself banned from the forum where I posted this - first time I've ever actually been banned from anywhere. They were having none of the discussion about planing with a cap iron or trying to improve design elements / outcome. I am not a fine worker and don't position myself as such, but even hacks will get more satisfaction out of trying to do good work. Failing only hurts the ego, and only if you allow yourself to have one.


----------



## DTR

thick_mike":2wjcqsju said:


> made a low oak bench for the hallway



That looks great Mike, very nice =D> =D>


----------



## OscarG

A pair of dogs made from padauk (supposed to be Cockapoos) as a birthday gift for my sister.







She liked them so much she threw one out of a window when opening the prezzie..






Hours to sand it smooth, 0.02 seconds to scuff it up!


----------



## AES

Great! When I 1st opened this, all I could see was a white tiled wall & a pair of UK power points. It took me several seconds (minutes?) of thinking "WTF?" until I then thought of scrolling down the page a bit! Woof!

Signed: "Worried of Tunbridge Wells" (and NO cuckoos yet)!


----------



## El Barto

I've been meaning to get a 2" butt chisel for ages and with Ashley Iles stock looking unlikely I picked up this old Sorby sash chisel from eBay. New handle turned from brown oak and a bit of cleaning up to remove some pitting and it's as good as new.






Also a work in progress coffee table made from the same brown oak. Notice ugly glue stains, they'll be gone soon. To those in the know, is brown oak more brittle than your normal English oak? This is something I've noticed (at least I think I have) and am interested to know if it's because it's infected wood, if all oak is like this after being kilned, or if I've just imagined it.


----------



## Bacms

Moxon vice made with Benchcrafted hardware and low grade English white beech and English cherry . Should have taken the pictures before using it as it is already full of dents


----------



## memzey

El Barto":cn1z14h5 said:


> I've been meaning to get a 2" butt chisel for ages and with Ashley Iles stock looking unlikely I picked up this old Sorby sash chisel from eBay. New handle turned from brown oak and a bit of cleaning up to remove some pitting and it's as good as new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also a work in progress coffee table made from the same brown oak. Notice ugly glue stains, they'll be gone soon. To those in the know, is brown oak more brittle than your normal English oak? This is something I've noticed (at least I think I have) and am interested to know if it's because it's infected wood, if all oak is like this after being kilned, or if I've just imagined it.


Liking that table; very stylish design to my eye. Quick question about the top if I may - did you intentionally run the grain in that direction (across the ellipse rather than along) for some specific reason? I’m not suggesting it’s wrong just that my gut instinct would have been to do it the other way and I’m interested to know why you chose as you did?


----------



## Trainee neophyte

D_W":1x4k5u1m said:


> I got myself banned from the forum where I posted this - first time I've ever actually been banned from anywhere. They were having none of the discussion about planing with a cap iron or trying to improve design elements / outcome. I am not a fine worker and don't position myself as such, but even hacks will get more satisfaction out of trying to do good work. Failing only hurts the ego, and only if you allow yourself to have one.



It seems to me that everything about a guitar is - how does it play? As a one-time musician, it was always about tone and sustain - I would think experimenting with different wood, different shape and so on was to be encouraged, even applauded. Strange how hidebound and regimented some people's brains become as they specialise. I would love to have a plunk on your guitar - I bet it plays like a dream, and has a unique sound. It certainly looks gorgeous.


----------



## will1983

This was the project for the weekend just gone.

The original concrete garage is undergoing a slow conversion into a proper work-space for my fledgling joinery business, this includes insulating and boarding the walls and generally making it a nicer, more efficient environment to work in.

There are vertical tanalised studs attached to the concrete every 600mm and then 50mm of celotex insulation and 18mm OSB3 over these. I completed 3 walls a few months ago so decided to get the remaining wall started.

There was a window in this corner of the workshop but the frame was rotten and it was far from secure so I decided to remove it and replace it with a solid panel incorporating an 18" diameter axial fan. I got this from Powerstaruk along with a matching grill for the outside, incidentally I would recommend them, quick delivery, well packaged and a reasonable price.

The fan moves a substantial amount of air and should help to keep my workshop a healthier place, the speed is adjustable and on the low setting is very quiet, max rpm is noisier as you would expect but not as loud as most of my tools.

This is only a progress shot showing the fan being test fitted but I have finished the insulation and boarding for this area now. I have left a 600mm sq opening in the OSB which fits a pleated panel filter nicely. I will use this when I am spraying to capture any overspray before it is exhausted outside.


----------



## El Barto

memzey":2t7fl71f said:


> El Barto":2t7fl71f said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been meaning to get a 2" butt chisel for ages and with Ashley Iles stock looking unlikely I picked up this old Sorby sash chisel from eBay. New handle turned from brown oak and a bit of cleaning up to remove some pitting and it's as good as new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also a work in progress coffee table made from the same brown oak. Notice ugly glue stains, they'll be gone soon. To those in the know, is brown oak more brittle than your normal English oak? This is something I've noticed (at least I think I have) and am interested to know if it's because it's infected wood, if all oak is like this after being kilned, or if I've just imagined it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Liking that table; very stylish design to my eye. Quick question about the top if I may - did you intentionally run the grain in that direction (across the ellipse rather than along) for some specific reason? I’m not suggesting it’s wrong just that my gut instinct would have been to do it the other way and I’m interested to know why you chose as you did?
Click to expand...


Sorry, I've just seen this! I had wanted the grain to run length ways originally but the board I had wouldn't have allowed for the size of table I wanted as well as the legs. SO, I compromised and decided to try it running across the table and I have to say I really like it. There's something slightly unusual about it and as it won't be taking any real weight strength isn't an issue. I'll be interested to see how the top reacts over time though. 

Another couple of reasons I didn't mind so much are that this was purely a prototype that will probably stay in my house AND I figured it was a good learning process. If it turned out rubbish then I'd know not to do it again. Here it is after a couple of coats of Osmo anyway.











I'm happy with it generally.


----------



## Chris152

First image doesn't work for me* Barto - looks great in the wip and last photo though.
* I mean the image doesn't appear, just an icon.


----------



## El Barto

Just fixed!


----------



## Droogs

very nice


----------



## El Barto

Droogs":13uwf9t4 said:


> very nice



Thanks very much.


----------



## DTR

El Barto":2g9ernnu said:


> memzey":2g9ernnu said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> El Barto":2g9ernnu said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been meaning to get a 2" butt chisel for ages and with Ashley Iles stock looking unlikely I picked up this old Sorby sash chisel from eBay. New handle turned from brown oak and a bit of cleaning up to remove some pitting and it's as good as new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also a work in progress coffee table made from the same brown oak. Notice ugly glue stains, they'll be gone soon. To those in the know, is brown oak more brittle than your normal English oak? This is something I've noticed (at least I think I have) and am interested to know if it's because it's infected wood, if all oak is like this after being kilned, or if I've just imagined it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Liking that table; very stylish design to my eye. Quick question about the top if I may - did you intentionally run the grain in that direction (across the ellipse rather than along) for some specific reason? I’m not suggesting it’s wrong just that my gut instinct would have been to do it the other way and I’m interested to know why you chose as you did?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Sorry, I've just seen this! I had wanted the grain to run length ways originally but the board I had wouldn't have allowed for the size of table I wanted as well as the legs. SO, I compromised and decided to try it running across the table and I have to say I really like it. There's something slightly unusual about it and as it won't be taking any real weight strength isn't an issue. I'll be interested to see how the top reacts over time though.
> 
> Another couple of reasons I didn't mind so much are that this was purely a prototype that will probably stay in my house AND I figured it was a good learning process. If it turned out rubbish then I'd know not to do it again. Here it is after a couple of coats of Osmo anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm happy with it generally.
Click to expand...


I like that =D>


----------



## custard

El Barto":3j9crotx said:


> I've been meaning to get a 2" butt chisel for ages....
> 
> ... is brown oak more brittle than your normal English oak?



A wide butt chisel lives permanently on my bench, it gets used for all sorts of jobs and doubles as a knife blade.

Regarding Brown Oak, it's not brittle as such, in fact it tends towards the reverse. The brown staining is caused by a disease and if it's too far progressed then the timber can become quite soft and spongey. What you want are those Brown Oak boards that are in that sweet spot of being well coloured but still quite hard.

Really nice table!
=D>


----------



## El Barto

Thanks for the kind words. The nice thing about a table like this is it’s such a simple build but produces results that look like something more complex, at least that’s how I see it. And it can be completely in quite a short amount of time. 

And agreed, the butt chisel is a great tool. I’m always picking it up for something or other.

That’s interesting about brown oak Custard. I don’t really have any evidence of it being brittle, it’s just a feeling I got when working it.


----------



## Simo

Here's the latest instrument to leave my workshop.. it's a 6 string guitar, featuring an English Walnut top, Black Walnut for the main body wood, Maple and Walnut neck with a Ziricote fretboard. It has a very wide string spacing (more like a classical guitar) as requested by the customer, as he finds wider necks easier to play with his slightly arthritic hands.


----------



## Austinisgreat

Simo,
That is lovely, out of interest what did you use as a finish? I used Tru-oil on a walnut tele but it was a major pain,

Cheers

Andrew


----------



## Simo

Austinisgreat":ce9gjvct said:


> Simo,
> That is lovely, out of interest what did you use as a finish? I used Tru-oil on a walnut tele but it was a major pain



Thanks. I used a finish called Patina. It's quite a unique product, it's basically an oil/varnish blend in a thick gel/jelly form.. rub in, wipe off, repeat every 4 hours.


----------



## Chris152

This morning's cabinetry:





(the rack, not the shed.)


----------



## Steliz

Simo,

Wow, that is a beautiful guitar. Thr grain pattern looks like it grew specifically to be made into this.


----------



## thick_mike

A low stool/side table for the living room made from some pine salvaged from a piano that had been skipped. I based the shape on an old Gibson plectrum I used to use as a teenager (the only genuine Gibson thing I could afford).


----------



## MikeG.

thick_mike":2o3t7rxb said:


> A low stool/side table for the living room made from some pine salvaged from a piano that had been skipped..... the shape.........



..........is a Reuleaux triangle.


----------



## thick_mike

MikeG.":3514z0pk said:


> thick_mike":3514z0pk said:
> 
> 
> 
> A low stool/side table for the living room made from some pine salvaged from a piano that had been skipped..... the shape.........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..........is a Reuleaux triangle.
Click to expand...


Yes, that’s how I laid it out. The radius on the points bears a suspicious resemblance to a WD40 can.

I’ve always been fascinated with these shapes after my grandad showed me how you can roll a book across the top of a 50p piece.


----------



## thetyreman

very nice take on the three legged stool mike, being a guitarist I can't help liking it, nicely executed.


----------



## woodbloke66

Big bookcase with sliding glass doors (yet to be fitted):
















2mm bandsaw Oak veneers over a laminated pine substrate, to hold very large 'coffee table' type books and big photo albums. The stand is exactly co-planar with the bottom of the bookcase so it tucks in flush with the skirting board. 25mm thick shelf, finish is two brush applied coats of Osmo Polyx with Alfie Shine on top - Rob


----------



## HOJ

Another 3 legged stool, all in Oak, with burnt legs, this one is for "perching" on, originally I saw a version made by Chris Schwarz, then another version by a young lady, Alice Blogg, the style of which I preferred, so credits to them both.





I use it when working at the bench vice, and generally when I just need to take a rest for a minute.


----------



## loftyhermes

Inspired by Ron Aylor and reading Peter Follansbee's book, Joiners Work, here's a box that I've just finished. It's all Oak and glue, no nails or screws just Oak dowels. It measures approx. 17" long by 10" wide and 5" high by 5/8ths thick. Finished with a coat of Danish Oil and then buffed up with Woodwax 22.


----------



## rafezetter

Very nice - especially the carving, not too perfect which imho is a good thing. The whole thing with it's "not perfect" joint's and a little bit of tearout here and there, to my view puts this box (small chest?) very much in the camp of one of a kind collectibles and crafted items, a style popular in America, (can't remember the name) that were made by "normal people" not known craftsmen, and are much sought after by "pickers".

I also like that you left the top plain - I think carving that as well would have spoiled it.

It'll prolly turn up on antiques roadshow in a couple hundred years, so you'd best sign it


----------



## thick_mike

A peg


----------



## oobaa

Not as finessed as most I see here but I enjoyed making it and using up some spare oak strips

Everyday is a lesson learned 












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## memzey

Ooh someone else who vapes - awesome! That’s a lot tanks you have there oobaa. Do you build your own coils and mix your own liquid as well?


----------



## oobaa

coils = yes but tend to buy liquid from concentrates and add nicotine


----------



## memzey

Cool. I’m on the lookout for a mesh RTA - is there one in your collection that you’d recommend?


----------



## oobaa

Not tried mesh but her the GSL Atties from germany are good


----------



## fezman

A small occasional table. 

First real go at M&T joinery.






Cherry, with Blonde Shellac and Clear satin polyurethane finish. I've got a lot to learn on finishing!


----------



## Garno

fezman":j5gz5tlg said:


> A small occasional table.
> 
> First real go at M&T joinery.
> 
> View attachment 20190711
> 
> 
> Cherry, with Blonde Shellac and Clear satin polyurethane finish. I've got a lot to learn on finishing!




I would be more than happy with that, You have done a great job and the finishing looks alright to me.


----------



## MikeG.

Looks great, Fezman. Proper piece of furniture.


----------



## Bm101

=D> =D> =D> =D>


fezman":1kvb9j9x said:


> A small occasional table.
> 
> First real go at M&T joinery.
> 
> View attachment 20190711
> 
> 
> Cherry, with Blonde Shellac and Clear satin polyurethane finish. I've got a lot to learn on finishing!


----------



## mbras

Hi there,
here's my last project. American Walnut tabletop made out of an old 2.7m x 0.4m x 52mm slab. The wood had a lot of tension in it, so keeping it fairly flat after reswaing was quite a challenge. I ended up putting 2 embedded steel bars of 5mm thick. It's not perfect, but OK.
The drawer is made of watered maple and the front out of yew, as well as the box enclosing it. Runners out of wengue strips.

Legs are square tube 30mm painted black mate.

The project has a lot of mistakes, but I like the way it looks and feels, plus, I learned a lot!

Regards
Miguel


----------



## Cordy




----------



## Jacob

Just finished the last baluster! Various decorative options considered but Brancusi got the short straw. Roughed out with band saw, planed with Record 73 (it's never done so much work in its life)
The boards underdrawing the stairs are chapel originals cleaned up slightly. Original colour scheme was blue/brown/grey throughout.
Staircase is one I made earlier.


----------



## Jacob

Made some bobbins. I really like doing 'ordinary' stuff. These are samples for a girl who does hair braiding, whatever that is, not having much hair myself.
'Industrial' quality - no fine finishing but they have to be just right for the job and as cheap as possible.
She might order them in 10s or 20s which I also like - I hate making one-offs at any scale. The more you do the better you get; by no.100 or so you are world class expert, or should be in theory. :shock:


----------



## Cordy

Just made my first bird-box
32 mm diameter entry for house sparrows




Clamped to fence for photo; will probably give it away


----------



## Bm101

That is the Asgard of bird houses Cordy! 
 
Solid. Love the defensive measures!


----------



## Garno

That is a lovely birdhouse Cordy. 

.


----------



## Cordy

Hey BM101
Asgard
You make me blush


----------



## will1983

Under counter kennel in a utility room.

This was what they started with.





Design brief was to create a kennel unit for two small dogs incorporating drawers, shelves for shoes and a space for a robot vacuum docking station. All to match an existing Magnet kitchen in gloss white.

The Client provided the Blum pre made drawer boxes and I made everything else and finished it with the Graco airless. The finish came out really good, the Client actually said it was indistinguishable from the factory applied coating on the rest of the kitchen. The steel wire mesh is set into a rebate in the reverse of the sliding doors.


----------



## J-G

I've always been fascinated by 'puzzle' boxes and make some with obscure opening mechanisms using brass catches and springs, but last week somewhere on one of the UKW forums I saw a 'Wheel Puzzle' box which intrigued me. There was a video and the demonstrator made 3D printed components to show how it worked . . . but I can no longer find it!!

Anyway, I took the basic idea and made my own. It's 200mm x 80mm x 50mm mostly Maple with African Blackwood detail. The catch is simply gravity actuated so the box has to be tilted first left and then right to about 80º.


----------



## rafezetter

Cordy":bz0ir36c said:


> Just made my first bird-box
> 32 mm diameter entry for house sparrows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped to fence for photo; will probably give it away



And you too now have a birdhouse in your soul.


----------



## D.Stephenson

Oak and glass dining table! A really interesting commission, it’s a wedding present for the clients granddaughter and features a slab of oak from a tree that grew next to their family home! 









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rafezetter

Nice table, but did you ask "A" and "C" which end of the table they preferred? :wink:


----------



## D.Stephenson

rafezetter":2oed1p95 said:


> Nice table, but did you ask "A" and "C" which end of the table they preferred? :wink:


 it was an executive decision by the grandfather [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bm101

That's proper. Well designed and beautifully executed. Not a hint of epoxy in sight.

Hats off. (hammer)


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Bm101":2yrbw8ly said:


> That's proper. Well designed and beautifully executed. Not a hint of epoxy in sight.
> 
> Hats off. (hammer)



I concur - really nice lines. Is that a traditional design that I would recognise if I wasn't the class numpty, or all your own work?


----------



## Fitzroy

A number of you fine folk helped me with advice on my lamp. I finished it a few months back and keep meaning to post a bit of a wip but never finding time. Anyhow all done and wouldn’t have managed without your advice.

Three way joint at the base reinforced with brass plate let into the underside. Splines were supposed to be contrasting lighter timber, sycamore vs mahogany but they soaked up the analine dye better and ended up even darker!

I wanted a lamp where the cord did not dangle down like an unwanted tail, so the back of one leg had a channel rebated into it then a cover inset. The electrics were fitted after finish applied and sycamore ‘accents’ used to cover fixings/ entry points.

Bottom leg joints are bridles and top leg joints ‘open mortices’ with loose tenons/dowels, if that description makes any sense! 

Was a huge learning curve as none of the joints are 90 degrees, and the top angles don’t match the bottom as the legs taper. Ended up with a table full of jigs and test joints to ensure at least an acceptable outcome. 

Overall I’m pleased and proud with the outcome and it can’t be too bad as the good wife has even accepted it into the house. 

Thanks again for all the help, onwards with a large box jointed coffee table next. 

Fitz

PS: comments and criticisms welcome, for me the base is an inch or two too wide, it adds some stability but isn’t as refine as I’d completely like.


----------



## marcros

I like that lamp. I could see it selling well commercially.


----------



## rafezetter

Fitzroy":3sneiyke said:


> A number of you fine folk helped me with advice on my lamp. I finished it a few months back and keep meaning to post a bit of a wip but never finding time. Anyhow all done and wouldn’t have managed without your advice.
> 
> Three way joint at the base reinforced with brass plate let into the underside. Splines were supposed to be contrasting lighter timber, sycamore vs mahogany but they soaked up the analine dye better and ended up even darker!
> 
> I wanted a lamp where the cord did not dangle down like an unwanted tail, so the back of one leg had a channel rebated into it then a cover inset. The electrics were fitted after finish applied and sycamore ‘accents’ used to cover fixings/ entry points.
> 
> Bottom leg joints are bridles and top leg joints ‘open mortices’ with loose tenons/dowels, if that description makes any sense!
> 
> Was a huge learning curve as none of the joints are 90 degrees, and the top angles don’t match the bottom as the legs taper. Ended up with a table full of jigs and test joints to ensure at least an acceptable outcome.
> 
> Overall I’m pleased and proud with the outcome and it can’t be too bad as the good wife has even accepted it into the house.
> 
> Thanks again for all the help, onwards with a large box jointed coffee table next.
> 
> Fitz
> 
> PS: comments and criticisms welcome, for me the base is an inch or two too wide, it adds some stability but isn’t as refine as I’d completely like.
> 
> View attachment 4
> 
> 
> View attachment 884



I personally wouldn't say the base is too wide; If I were making it I'd have made the base as wide as the lampshade, so you've got visual symmetry top and bottom, so you're not far off an that score, and I think it looks the better for it - to my eye's anyway.

Lovely work, I remember your post about that bottom triple joint and reinforcing it, you've done it nicely, highlighted it without overdoing it by using a ligher wood for the splines, which I think would have been a mistake.

And you even clocked the screws =D>


----------



## fezman

More a case of "the last thing i finished" than made, as I've been making this on and off for a few months in between other things. 

This was more of a trial run to test out new (to me) ways of dovetailing. I'm pleased to say my accuracy improved during this. The new ways were using blue tape (a la Derek Cohen), building and using a moxon vice along with a dovetail alignment jig, and getting some reading glasses to magnify the work. All contributed in some way I guess. 

The box is made from Oak, not a particular favourite of mine, but I had some spare. I got a bit of tear out, and I undercut the DT's too much, so had to fill a couple of places when I cut the lid off. 















The lid was a solid piece of oak set into a rebate, and there has been a bit of shrinkage during the summer. Other than using a veneered piece, any advice on what I could have done to minimise this? 






Hinges are from Andrew Crawford (next time I wont be going for the brass - easily tarnish - lesson learnt). These are expensive compared to the ones i usually use, but you can tell the difference in quality. 

Knob from Prokraft. 

Finish Osmo Polyx

Oh and of course the lining was done using the most excellent method from Custard.


----------



## MikeG.

Well done folks. You've made some nice things whilst I've been away. I really like lots of the oak table, except the glass I'm afraid. The pedestals are beautiful in their simplicity. The little oak box is nice too (maybe make the walls a little thinner next time?)......and the shrinkage is just about seasoning the wood properly if you are using solid stuff, or, preferably, designing that joint away. The lamp is deceptively simple (ie it's more complex than it looks), and my daughter has just paid ridiculous money for something somewhat similar. They're quite fashionable at the moment, I'm told. Love the little birdhouse. I hope those joins in the roof stay water-tight.

Anyway, good to see such varied work. Keep it up! As for me, much as I'd love to be making the grand bog oak coffee table I drew a while back, the next on the list is a stair (with a little carving). It'll be a few weeks.


----------



## Cordy

> Love the little birdhouse. I hope those joins in the roof stay water-tight.



Yes, they are sound
Glued and sealed with Cascamite


----------



## Ttrees

I made myself a bandsaw buddy. very handy.
It would be nice to have a flush magnet, so I could have the jig the other side of the blade.
Only found a suitable magnet stuck to the stove today #-o
I needed to double up on the magnets, as I don't have those rare earth ones.
I would have looked for longer stock of aluminum plate had I those magnets, as I feel it's a bit short.


----------



## thetyreman

made myself a little dovetail tray from some quartersawn spruce...


----------



## Ryandotdee

Made a wine rack, Maple with walnut splines.

Not too happy with the actual wood, as its got a lot of green in it, but that is down to my poor selection process lol. Was a bit tricky to get the holes drilled at the right angles to make the bottles sit fairly level.


----------



## Ryandotdee

thetyreman":1w5q14g5 said:


> made myself a little dovetail tray from some quartersawn spruce...




Lovely work. Very artistic photo aswell =D>


----------



## rafezetter

Ryandotdee":2nsa1cur said:


> Made a wine rack, Maple with walnut splines.
> 
> Not too happy with the actual wood, as its got a lot of green in it, but that is down to my poor selection process lol. Was a bit tricky to get the holes drilled at the right angles to make the bottles sit fairly level.



I think the green in the wood might be ok with the green of wine bottles, also, taking the walnut spines right the way through instead of just at the joints is a nice feature. Sorry to be picky but I have to ask, was swapping the darker grain one side the the other and back a consious choice or just "how it came out" with the angled cuts?


----------



## Ryandotdee

rafezetter":3flfvq2h said:


> Ryandotdee":3flfvq2h said:
> 
> 
> 
> Made a wine rack, Maple with walnut splines.
> 
> Not too happy with the actual wood, as its got a lot of green in it, but that is down to my poor selection process lol. Was a bit tricky to get the holes drilled at the right angles to make the bottles sit fairly level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the green in the wood might be ok with the green of wine bottles, also, taking the walnut spines right the way through instead of just at the joints is a nice feature. Sorry to be picky but I have to ask, was swapping the darker grain one side the the other and back a consious choice or just "how it came out" with the angled cuts?
Click to expand...


Don't worry about being picky, I am really new to the whole woodworking lark and am happy to receive any form of feedback. I think it is a combination of not picking the right wood for the project, and there was certainly a bit of "how it came out" in there. The other face had more of the green in it, so out of the 2 sides the one that is on the outside here had what I considered to be the nicer looking faces. I am definitely going to make another one of these, but I will be taking a lot more care with the wood that I use.

Thank you for taking the time to comment, it is really useful for me to get feedback from people who are not friends and family, as I am pretty sure I could nail a few bits of pallet wood together, call it a wine rack, and they would say it is great, because thats what friends and family are for right?


----------



## Rob_Mc

Ttrees":2b2gvhb6 said:


> I made myself a bandsaw buddy. very handy.
> It would be nice to have a flush magnet, so I could have the jig the other side of the blade.
> Only found a suitable magnet stuck to the stove today #-o
> I needed to double up on the magnets, as I don't have those rare earth ones.
> I would have looked for longer stock of aluminum plate had I those magnets, as I feel it's a bit short.



I took a similar approach ... 2 small 6mm diameter N52 Neodymium rare earth magnets and a straight 6" steel rule. I've just fitted a new bandsaw blade and as you can see my fence is out and needs adjusting.














I ordered the magnets from China some time ago thinking they would come in handy for jigs and fixtures. They are very strong and cost 4p each (£1.97 for 50 delivered) and took 3 weeks to arrive. Here are the details;

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3289756 ... 4c4dgxJpIJ


----------



## rafezetter

Rob_Mc":aegquomd said:


> Ttrees":aegquomd said:
> 
> 
> 
> I made myself a bandsaw buddy. very handy.
> It would be nice to have a flush magnet, so I could have the jig the other side of the blade.
> Only found a suitable magnet stuck to the stove today #-o
> I needed to double up on the magnets, as I don't have those rare earth ones.
> I would have looked for longer stock of aluminum plate had I those magnets, as I feel it's a bit short.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took a similar approach ... 2 small 6mm diameter N52 Neodymium rare earth magnets and a straight 6" steel rule. I've just fitted a new bandsaw blade and as you can see my fence is out and needs adjusting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered the magnets from China some time ago thinking they would come in handy for jigs and fixtures. They are very strong and cost 4p each (£1.97 for 50 delivered) and took 3 weeks to arrive. Here are the details;
> 
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3289756 ... 4c4dgxJpIJ
Click to expand...


lol so THAT'S what it's for


----------



## woodbloke66

An Alan Peters Linen chest, first made as an English Heritage commission for for Kirkham House, Paignton, Devon in the early 1980's. The original was made in Olive Ash, as is this one. There's a hand planed concave top which is an Alan Peters trademark feature. Mine has a dovetailed 'lift out' tray and both it and the main chest have a panelled base in Cedar of Lebanon. The feet are made from Bog Oak.






Showing the lid open and a small ebony butterfly to hold a tiny crack together in the centre section of the lid.






End detail











Showing the dovetailed, sliding 'lift out' tray






One of the Bog Oak feet. Finished with several coats of Polyvine Acrylic Wax topped off with Renaissance Wax - Rob


----------



## dzj

A 2.2m Japanese-inspired bench.


----------



## Garno

woodbloke66":2pw0kf0i said:


> An Alan Peters Linen chest, first made as an English Heritage commission for for Kirkham House, Paignton, Devon in the early 1980's. The original was made in Olive Ash, as is this one. There's a hand planed concave top which is an Alan Peters trademark feature. Mine has a dovetailed 'lift out' tray and both it and the main chest have a panelled base in Cedar of Lebanon. The feet are made from Bog Oak.
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the lid open and a small ebony butterfly to hold a tiny crack together in the centre section of the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> End detail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Showing the dovetailed, sliding 'lift out' tray
> 
> 
> 
> One of the Bog Oak feet. Finished with several coats of Polyvine Acrylic Wax topped off with Renaissance Wax - Rob



That is stunning, thank you for showing it.

Gary


----------



## manxnorton

A retake on the old one..took too much room on the shelf. :lol: 
Bri


----------



## MikeG.

Well done Bri. Good solid utilitarian workshop stuff. Just right.


----------



## will1983

Here's a few photos of recently completed projects.

First up, I converted a pair of old existing cupboards in a bedroom into a reading nook. This involved a huge amount of scribing to get around wonky walls and cabinets, I think in total there were 64 scribed edges! It was a nice project though and the result turned out well. I didn't do the paint I only primed the parts prior to fitting. The cushion was also made to order, but not by me!





Next was a custom single bed incorporating three large oak veneered drawers and a "secret" long thin storage space behind. The Oak details are solid European oak finished with Osmo 3032 and the paint is Morrells water based lacquer, Farrow and Ball "Shadow White" sprayed using the Graco Ultra. The whole thing breaks down for moving house etc using threaded T nuts and M10 bolts.





And finally, a finished photo of the under counter dog kennel I built for a Client's utility room. The two doors are on sliding hardware with galvanized steel mesh panels. The shelves are clear of the floor for the robot vacuum cleaner docking station. The finish is again sprayed in brilliant white, this time in a high gloss finish to match the existing Magnet kitchen. The Client provided the three Blum drawer boxes and runners but I made the support arrangement to carry them.





Hope you like.


----------



## Simon_M

This is the last thing I made - added the wheels this afternoon.









The purpose of the casters is to bring the extractor (with one cuff on the end) to each machine rather than other way around. I also wanted to experiment with using casters e.g. do they affect stability/enjoyment of equipment (a bit)? Are casters outside of the dimensions much more stable (yes, much more), how strong is the material (2.8kg stand is surprisingly strong)? Will the wood flex sufficiently to find a level, or are three wheels the answer (none with heavier loads e.g. me) and I might experiment with longer bolts and additional nut/washers to allow levelling e.g. for a bandsaw base. 

I had two small "scraps" of cherry wood that I ripped with bandsaw (so all the sides are "matched" - so sad, I know!) and it's glued and screwed together and so I managed to avoid breaking into a new sheet of plywood for the base too.





The locking casters are on the diagonals. That's because I found some "wiggle" in the locked casters and using the diagonals rather than one side of the square (410mm) is now more stable. To expose one caster I rotate the unit and lock the wheel. To expose the second caster I rotate the unit back and lock the other wheel and in this case the space doesn't matter. Later on I may swap the two locking casters out for another project where I want four locking casters - locking isn't necessary here.

I also wanted to experiment with the idea of using casters to make a workbench "mobile" by lifting it 1/2" off the floor for moving it around and then releasing it so that it can be used with only the legs (and not the casters) being in contact with the floor for stability. I can use the base to try this out too. The small blocks are the "offcuts" off the offcuts. They hold the extractor but also spread the load of bigger items so that I can see the effect of using casters vs without e.g. using a board.


----------



## Will3344

Making this as we speak


----------



## space.dandy

I made this footstool today, to match the sofa and chairs. I used a spare sofa cushion for the top and I'm not too happy with it; I might try unstitching the fabric and making a better version.

Many thanks to Fergal and the Somerdale Men's Shed for turning the feet!


----------



## thetyreman

finished off my workbench drawer, installed a mortise lock and handle made from douglas fir. 



Workbench Drawer with brass lock and handle by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## MikeG.

That looks great, tyreman, but that sticky-outie thing right where your right hip is when planing.......isn't that going to get in the way? I certainly couldn't have something like that on my bench. Wouldn't some sort of finger-pull be better?


----------



## thetyreman

MikeG.":2od7m3fh said:


> That looks great, tyreman, but that sticky-outie thing right where your right hip is when planing.......isn't that going to get in the way? I certainly couldn't have something like that on my bench. Wouldn't some sort of finger-pull be better?



my vice isn't flush with the apron sides, so it's not a problem, I had a finger pull hole and just didn't like it, so far it's not been a problem.


----------



## will1983

Latest Client job installed this weekend.

Eaves wardrobes on the top floor of a three story new build home.
Internals/carcassing is all Oak veneered MDF finished with Osmo 3032.

Doors and trim MRMDF sprayed with Morrell's WB lacquer in F&B "Dimpse"

Hinges are all Blum S/C, handles from Ironmongery Direct.

I'm pleased with how this came out and looking forward to doing some more of these.


----------



## samhay

Very nice will1983, but is the top left door hinged on the diagonal?


----------



## will1983

Thank you Samhay.

No mate, it wouldn't have worked properly so the Client and I decided just to leave it fixed (non-opening).

They still have access through the other door but as they don't plan on putting anything up there that they will need regular access to anyway they weren't bothered.


----------



## samhay

Fair enough. As long as the client's happy, then all is good.


----------



## Deadeye

Having spent months as a newbie learnign to do the basics from scratch, I have finally done something that I feel I can show without too much embarassment and, more importantly, my wife will let in the house.
It's a replacement bed for my son's room (he only visits these days). Beech frame and boards; walnut inlay for the mountains and mahogany sun. He's a mountaineer, hence the theme.


----------



## jnw010

Deadeye":2i1xeiiu said:


> .... replacement bed for my son's room .... Beech frame and boards... ]



That looks good, I've been looking at making a couple of full size single beds for my two sons - they may only be 5 and 2 now, but I'd want them to last until they're adults - what size timber did you use for the frame rails? It'd be useful to know what's worked for your bed.


----------



## Deadeye

jnw010":2ehp1v2r said:


> That looks good, I've been looking at making a couple of full size single beds for my two sons - they may only be 5 and 2 now, but I'd want them to last until they're adults - what size timber did you use for the frame rails? It'd be useful to know what's worked for your bed.



The side rails are 44mm thick by 140mm deep; the head and tail boards are 22mm thick. The posts are 64mm square.


----------



## MikeG.

Excellent deadeye. Love the design.


----------



## MusicMan

Very nice design and work.

Keith


----------



## sundaytrucker

I have been working on this bench on and off for sometime, its been started and stopped, stored and finally I am calling it finished, although I will flatten the top in six months or so. I followed Richard Maguire's English Workbench series although knowing I was going to paint the base black from the off I skipped the dovetail half laps for just plain Jane regular half laps for the trestle joinery. 

The face vice again follows Richard Maguire's series and I chose it as the bench is quite compact at somewhere between 1400-1500mm and I liked that it could straddle the leg. Surprisingly the vice works great, especially now I have lined the jaw with rubberised cork.


----------



## thetyreman

that's a really nice job =D> , love the look of that vice, may I ask, where did you get that rubberised cork? I ask because I plan on lining my vice jaws with some and have recently re-flattened the jaws and could do with something similar.


----------



## Bm101

Ben I just get arty type sticky back stuff. Doesn't last too great but its cheap and easy to replace. 
Derek Cohen mentioned Crubber in his moxxon thread recently. Looks the biz. No idea on cost.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

thetyreman":3fkg6u7c said:


> that's a really nice job =D> , love the look of that vice, may I ask, where did you get that rubberised cork? I ask because I plan on lining my vice jaws with some and have recently re-flattened the jaws and could do with something similar.



Try googling "rubber bonded cork sheet" and comes up with something like this...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/263834358866?c ... gIUfPD_BwE

I also have the self adhesive cheap cork stuff to line my vice jaws, but as BM101 says they dont last, so I'll probably do the same and get something like the link above


----------



## MikeG.

Genuine question here..........what benefit do you get from cork (or similar) liners to your vice jaws? I've used a lump of wood since I began woodworking, and not ever run into an issue that had me thinking "I need something softer".


----------



## Garno

I have thick leather on mine Mike, it may be psychological but I think it gives better grip. On the other hand I may have wasted some leather. :?


----------



## sundaytrucker

thetyreman":3q2mbiva said:


> that's a really nice job =D> , love the look of that vice, may I ask, where did you get that rubberised cork? I ask because I plan on lining my vice jaws with some and have recently re-flattened the jaws and could do with something similar.




Thanks for the compliment. 

I got it from the Mantek Direct ebay store and it cost around fifteen quid for 1000 x 500mm, other size options available. David Barron recommended them several months ago.



MikeG.":3q2mbiva said:


> Genuine question here..........what benefit do you get from cork (or similar) liners to your vice jaws? I've used a lump of wood since I began woodworking, and not ever run into an issue that had me thinking "I need something softer".



For me it was a mixture of wanting to aid grip and give some sort of protection. Grip wise it seems to hold better with the cork rubber but whether it will add some protection is anyones guess. For the relatively cheap price if it fails I will just pull it off and go wood to wood.


----------



## weekend_woodworker

I made these two boxes to hold garden twine as a present at the weekend. They are made out of some beech worktop I was given from Freecycle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris152

Surfboard wall rack, oak with some varnish, padded with a bit of yoga mat (I couldn't find another use for it). The boy's contribution will be to move his poster a bit to the right.


----------



## manxnorton

A shoe stand.
Plywood and pine.





Bri


----------



## MikeG.

Well done Bri, you're skills are coming along nicely.


----------



## Garno

weekend_woodworker":131tec5x said:


> I made these two boxes to hold garden twine as a present at the weekend. They are made out of some beech worktop I was given from Freecycle.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Did you use a router to cut the angles? I have a couple of router bits to cut 6/12 and 8 sided boxes but have never used them (massively lack the confidence with a router)


----------



## weekend_woodworker

Garno":fx83sl79 said:


> weekend_woodworker":fx83sl79 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made these two boxes to hold garden twine as a present at the weekend. They are made out of some beech worktop I was given from Freecycle.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you use a router to cut the angles? I have a couple of router bits to cut 6/12 and 8 sided boxes but have never used them (massively lack the confidence with a router)
Click to expand...

I cut the angles for the sides on the table saw using one of those small digital angle boxes to get them spot on. I then used a router bit with a bearing to trim the top and bottoms.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## doctor Bob




----------



## ColeyS1

doctor Bob":8hfxnebm said:


>


poop the bed Bob, that looks proper smart !

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk


----------



## doctor Bob

ColeyS1":2imya9lc said:


> poop the bed Bob, that looks proper smart !



Now thats a proper compliment, thank you :lol: :lol:


----------



## Jonathan S

Nice one Bob....for the scroll work did you use mdf?

Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk


----------



## doctor Bob

Jonathan S":38a6hupx said:


> Nice one Bob....for the scroll work did you use mdf?
> 
> Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk



Yes CNC out of MDF, veneered in ASH as we wanted a grain on the doors and frames.


----------



## MikeG.

That's wonderful, Bob. If it is veneered, does that mean the edges are exposed MDF?


----------



## Phil Pascoe

That's what I wondered.


----------



## doctor Bob

MikeG.":1h97b7n2 said:


> That's wonderful, Bob. If it is veneered, does that mean the edges are exposed MDF?



Yes but covered in 3 coats of paint, they are so narrow it's not noticeable there is no grain, pain in the butt to spray and denib.


----------



## thetyreman

updated my vice with the nitrile impregnated cork, and also got some better m6 flanged hex bolts to hold the jaw in place, wish I'd have done this much sooner, the extra grip the cork gives is really noticeable!


----------



## will1983

Latest client project installed this weekend.

Utility room cupboard, 18mm MRMDF outside sprayed with Morrell's water based lacquer in "Scottish kilt".
2x1 5ths framework pocket holed together and affixed to the walls, floor and ceiling.
Inside 9mm MRMDF lining sprayed with Morrell's again, brilliant white.
Door hung on 4no Blum cranked soft close hinges.

This was a nice project with some interesting little details to overcome and some lovely clients.
There's a little bit of touching up to do on the caulked edge but they are going to do that when they give the room it's second coat of paint.


----------



## axe

Not the most intereting thing but just finished this -


----------



## Rich C

Not the most exciting project, but useful. I made myself a proper set of winding sticks.

They're part of a reclaimed handrail (possibly utile or sapele) with walnut and birch inlays. Finish is blonde shellac.


----------



## NickM

A large frame for a scoreboard (for the Guernsey Rifle Club). The scoreboard is a whiteboard style board on c.3mm aluminium. The frame is oak and there is a thin ply sheet which holds the scoreboard in and which is pinned to the frame.

No hand tools I'm afraid. All made with table saw, P/T machine and router table. I made a mitre jig for the table saw with inspiration from one by Steve Maskery of this parish. I'm gradually building up a home workshop and this is the first thing that's come out of it.


----------



## El Barto

Working on an absolutely enormous project at the moment. For those interested, I have been using a double-bevel Gransfors broad axe - this creates the nice scalloped texture you can see in the photo. As opposed to a single-bevel broad axe that gives you a cleaner face.


----------



## Fitzroy

Them chippings are going to block the dust extraction! Would love to see more info and pics on what you’re doing. 

Fitz.


----------



## El Barto

Ha! We are under an embargo about posting photos on social media etc unfortunately so that's probably as much as I should share right now. 

I can say though that the foundations of an enormous Roman villa were discovered on a very wealthy estate, so they have decided to rebuild the villa near the original site and open it to the public. The visible timbers inside the villa will have been hewn - they want to keep things as authentic as possible. We have something like 80 French oaks to hew and cut to size and we're nearly halfway through after 3 weeks.

This is quite cool: I was going through one of the logs with my Alaskan mill (one of the faces will be cut, the other 3 hewn) and went straight through this. It appears to be a bullet of a fairly large calibre (it's certainly lead) and this being French oak leads me to think it may have happened in WW2. But if anyone can shed any light or debunk my theory I'd love to hear it.


----------



## pollys13

ace":2jnyg8on said:


> Not the most intereting thing but just finished this -
> /


Interesting design, nice, I like that. Did you use a V router bit to get the tongue, groove effect? How did you do the framing for the light?


----------



## Nelsun

El Barto":1qcgjfp4 said:


> Working on an absolutely enormous project at the moment. For those interested, I have been using a double-bevel Gransfors broad axe - this creates the nice scalloped texture you can see in the photo. As opposed to a single-bevel broad axe that gives you a cleaner face.



Very interesting to see. It's unfortunate you can't post more! I've started looking into how folk worked on large sectioned timer in times gone by; namely to try and make new look old. I'm pretty happy with using wire wheels and assorted brush sanding wheels to age the wood but achieving the hand hewn look seems best done... by hand. Axe choice needs more investigation before making a decision as they ain't cheap!


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I had a load of firewood I salvaged from a chapel demolition and in one large piece of pine I found a musket ball.


----------



## El Barto

Nelsun":2xgntw7g said:


> Axe choice needs more investigation before making a decision as they ain't cheap!



No they aren't which can make trying out different types a bit of a pain. But there are a few places you can get decent but relatively affordable axes. Workshop Heaven do a nice looking Narex side axe for a very reasonable price, and you could also check out Hultafors. I believe they're made in the same forge as Gransfors but without that level of craftsmanship, therefore keeping prices lower. I have a Hultafors felling axe and it's very good.


----------



## doctor Bob




----------



## Phil Pascoe

Nice. Plenty of glory holes.


----------



## Steliz

Dr. Bob - WOW, stunning.


----------



## Trevanion

El Barto":16qgy4pe said:


> This is quite cool: I was going through one of the logs with my Alaskan mill (one of the faces will be cut, the other 3 hewn) and went straight through this. It appears to be a bullet of a fairly large calibre (it's certainly lead) and this being French oak leads me to think it may have happened in WW2. But if anyone can shed any light or debunk my theory I'd love to hear it.





phil.p":16qgy4pe said:


> I had a load of firewood I salvaged from a chapel demolition and in one large piece of pine I found a musket ball.



I've also found lead shot in European oak :shock:, goes through the machines easy enough though! :lol:. The worst thing I've seen was the remnants of some kind of steel rod embedded across the grain that was about 15mm round and about 2" or so long into a piece of 3" thick oak. At some point somebody had pulled the piece out before it got to me but they really shouldn't be sending stock like that out. :x Somebody's obviously sawn through it though! :lol:


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I took down a Leylandii for a chap a worked with. It was about 18" diameter at the base, sitting on a small boundary hedge. I thought as this was boundary there'd be ironmongery in it somewhere, and as I didn't want to stop the change chains I thought I'd get everything above about six feet done then take it off at ground level, so if I hit something when logging the last part at least it could be slung in the trailer and taken away. Everything went without a hitch, though, and it wasn't until I unloaded the stuff that a saw a perfect cross section of a four inch nail in the largest ring. There was no sign of it on the stump. Why anyone puy a four inch nail into a tree two inches from the ground I still wonder, but it didn't even take the edge off the chain.


----------



## rafezetter

Deadeye":wfjvpgo9 said:


> Having spent months as a newbie learnign to do the basics from scratch, I have finally done something that I feel I can show without too much embarassment and, more importantly, my wife will let in the house.
> It's a replacement bed for my son's room (he only visits these days). Beech frame and boards; walnut inlay for the mountains and mahogany sun. He's a mountaineer, hence the theme.



That's really really nice deadeye - the waves meant to simulate clouds I assume?


----------



## rafezetter

doctor Bob":1r69hzy5 said:


>








you're just showing off now


----------



## doctor Bob

A few recent kitchens.


----------



## Droogs

El Barto":1kouay03 said:


> Ha! We are under an embargo about posting photos on social media etc unfortunately so that's probably as much as I should share right now.
> 
> I can say though that the foundations of an enormous Roman villa were discovered on a very wealthy estate, so they have decided to rebuild the villa near the original site and open it to the public. The visible timbers inside the villa will have been hewn - they want to keep things as authentic as possible. We have something like 80 French oaks to hew and cut to size and we're nearly halfway through after 3 weeks.
> 
> This is quite cool: I was going through one of the logs with my Alaskan mill (one of the faces will be cut, the other 3 hewn) and went straight through this. It appears to be a bullet of a fairly large calibre (it's certainly lead) and this being French oak leads me to think it may have happened in WW2. But if anyone can shed any light or debunk my theory I'd love to hear it.









To me, looks more like a piece of grapeshot rather than a round of ball ammo. Military callibre rounds were all basically "FMJ (full metal jacket)" from circa 1905 within Europe, partly due to the 1889 Hague convention but mostly due to all militaries by then using rifles with mechanical loading loading mechanisms (bolt action SMLE, French needle gun etc) as opposed to hand-fed rounds (Martini Baker - first Boer war). Lead rounds tending to deform due to the action of the bolt and therefore causing stoppages and barrel damage. Your photo doesn't appear to show any colour difference from a lead core and copper based jacket coating. Also counting the rings got higher than timeline since WW2 so I would guess it's either Great War shrapnel or even Franco-Prusso War


----------



## El Barto

Cool information, thanks!


----------



## Trevanion

Droogs":1jpp4ile said:


> Also counting the rings got higher than timeline since WW2 so I would guess it's either Great War shrapnel or even Franco-Prusso War



Or a hunter missing its prey :wink:


----------



## doctor Bob

We are doing 2 more bedrooms with lattice in fron t of mirrors for the doors. Like these





Different style this time, 6 doors in each style
Heres the the start, 2 bedrooms with different styles:

Squares in squares





and Diagonals





I'll try and take a few images as I go along.
Nice project 6 bedrooms in total, 2 mirrored with lattice, 4 shaker


----------



## doctor Bob




----------



## MikeG.

Not only is your work lovely, Bob, but your photographs are too.


----------



## Jacob

Tatoes?
We call them taters up here.


----------



## rafezetter

doctor Bob":1b3x119k said:


>


 you've spelt "tattoos" wrong  - but no idea why you'd want a drawer for tattoos anyway.


----------



## doctor Bob

This weeks effort, stone being fitted when I took pics


----------



## memzey

Awesome stuff bob as ever. Your design, use of materials and execution really is something to behold. 

Quick question if I may; I note that each of the recent builds you’ve shown use inset doors and drawers. Is this the modern trend for high end built ins?


----------



## Setch

Don't suppose you know what the flooring is Bob? I'm looking for something similar for when I get my extension done. 

Lovely work as ever.


----------



## doctor Bob

Setch":1k6b9l24 said:


> Don't suppose you know what the flooring is Bob? I'm looking for something similar for when I get my extension done.
> 
> Lovely work as ever.



Hi, think it was an amtico floor.


----------



## doctor Bob

memzey":xmbunhgg said:


> Awesome stuff bob as ever. Your design, use of materials and execution really is something to behold.
> 
> Quick question if I may; I note that each of the recent builds you’ve shown use inset doors and drawers. Is this the modern trend for high end built ins?



Yes, for traditional bespoke kitchens, frames and butt hinges is the norm.


----------



## Farm Labourer

Lovely work Dr Bob. How did you do the carving on the drawer fronts (veg and spuds)? It's exquisite?


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Farm Labourer":3nmggiwp said:


> Lovely work Dr Bob. How did you do the carving on the drawer fronts (veg and spuds)? It's exquisite?


Thank you - I was too embarrassed to ask.  I thought it was too obvious, if you know what you are doing, that is?


----------



## doctor Bob

Shhhhhhh ........... CNC .................. don't tell the hand tool chaps :lol:


----------



## Chris152

Recycling bag unit thingy:








I posted it on the local FB hub where there's been a lot of noise about the new system (now 6 separate recycling containers) as an efficient way of dealing with it all if you don't have space in the house, and had lots of requests to make them for people. I don't want to, i think tanalised wood's pretty nasty. But there's clearly a market. Cost £76 to make.


----------



## Droogs

lol Chris you have 6 for each house and its taken me 7 years of asking to get 3 between 72 flats


----------



## Nelsun

This one has taken a "while" due to feature creep but was finally handed over the the better half last night and is now filled with all her knitting cr... stuff. Drawer and doors fitted with soft close hardware so she can't slam any of it!


----------



## MikeG.

I'm not sure what I'm seeing there, Nelsun. Is it two different pieces of furniture?


----------



## Nelsun

MikeG.":3vcq23f1 said:


> I'm not sure what I'm seeing there, Nelsun. Is it two different pieces of furniture?


Nope. Just the one. Thank the lord 

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk


----------



## MikeG.

Well, it looks brown in one photo, and blue in another. Weird!

Anyway, well done. It looks great.


----------



## Farm Labourer

> Shhhhhhh ........... CNC .................. don't tell the hand tool chaps



I was kind of half-expecting you to say that, unfortunately.  Not because I don't approve, far from it but because I don't have one !


----------



## Nelsun

MikeG.":2xyjfni1 said:


> Well, it looks brown in one photo, and blue in another. Weird!
> 
> Anyway, well done. It looks great.


Helmi 30 Denim used throughout; so a very dark blue. Just carp phone camera I guess.


----------



## Chrispy

No not B&Q special but carefully shaped and jointed up Oak handrail for retro fitting to a stair case with quarter landing, fingers crossed that it will fit.


----------



## Trevanion

Chris152":2lrw8dp6 said:


> I posted it on the local FB hub where there's been a lot of noise about the new system (now 6 separate recycling containers) as an efficient way of dealing with it all if you don't have space in the house.



We've got them around this way as well, the only thing that makes me go "What were they thinking" is why on earth would you use an open-topped bag for the cardboard recycling when they won't accept wet cardboard? It's raining most of the year!


----------



## mr rusty

Pair of Accoya patio doors.


----------



## owen

Look good those! Why didn't you do an accoya cill?


----------



## mr rusty

Ha! because I'd run out of accoya and had a plank of Utile.....


----------



## Chrispy

A nice compact utility room finished last week, gloss slate grey doors light grey cabinet interiors all made to measure hiding boiler, consumer unit, washing machine, tumble drier, water softner, broom/ cleaning cupboard three drawers and wall storage sink set into ceramic worktop.


----------



## thetyreman

is that blood on the right style of the left door mr rusty? p.s nice doors


----------



## MarkDennehy

Finally finished it...


----------



## Cordy

Mark, that is fantastic =D>


----------



## Chris152

Lump of firewood, reworked.




It's getting cold here now, so I've been splitting logs. Spent the evening trying to work out how to do the knots - comes with a free guide on the lark's head noose knot so it can be remade when it shrinks and falls apart.


----------



## owen

Reworked into a split lump of firewood with some meat string round it? What is it?


----------



## novocaine

Seriously Chris, you made me sign in for that? please can we remove the swear filter for a minute so I can call Chris names?

Although the more I look at it, the more it looks like the X-ray of my bosses new knee. 

Sell for millions no dowt.


----------



## MikeG.

I've been looking at this a while, trying to work out where the wine bottles go. I've come to the conclusion that it's actually a tablesaw cross cut sled.


----------



## mr rusty

> is that blood on the right style of the left door mr rusty? p.s nice doors



Not sure - but doesn't show through the white paint - I sprayed them with primer and Teknos Aquatop - and still have all my fingers....


----------



## Chris152

owen":1brul4b4 said:


> What is it?


Tricky to answer without sounding pretentious, but here goes. 
The workshop I share is surrounded by wood in all kinds of states, from logs to planed boards and finished pieces. I tend not to pay attention to it day-to-day but every so often, a bit of rough wood catches my eye and I find myself looking at it and wondering about its age, structure and all that. 
And yesterday morning I re-watched one of the Hank Gilpin vids where he says there's no such thing as bad wood. I love his attitude, and I really like Mark Lindquist's work on account of its raw woodiness. 
So i decided to go back to the most basic sort of intervention in a bit of wood i could think of, splitting it and looking inside, and then thought maybe I could keep that moment - so I made the little 'sketch' that I posted. Raw wood with a very basic intervention. I'm going to try more of them with the axe, then on to the lathe and other simple cuts and breaks. 
It's a really basic fascination that I'd guess most of us who work/ _try_ to work with wood have, and one that's worth keeping hold of, I think. 
So, as we say here in Wales, 'that's warritis'.


----------



## Bm101

Good for you Chris. 
I went to the Tate Modern once. I was walking home down the southbank and I thought... f*** it go in and have a look. Well tbh I thought most of it was shi*e. There you go. I did. I still do if im honest. But really im still backward enough to want to see some technical merit as well as concept. Call me old fashioned.
But i do remember walking round those Tate exhibits and thinking that the world would be a far poorer place if they didnt exist. 
The World need fresh views. 
Keep it up Chris. You give me hope that the world isnt as small as i have contrived to make it in the last 20 years through habit, convenience and laziness to my own detriment. 
Respect mate. You woke me up a bit there. Fair play. 
Regards 
Chris


----------



## lurker

In the right London shop, that could fetch a coupla hundred


----------



## lurker

Bm101":3rib16ta said:


> i remember walking round those Tate exhibits and thinking that the world would be a far poorer place if they didnt exist.
> The World need fresh views.
> gives me hope that the world isnt as small as i have contrived to make it in the last 20 years through habit, convenience and laziness



If only you were famous.......
I could sell that to private eye for pseuds corner.


----------



## Chris152

Thanks Chris.



lurker":1laa8kz3 said:


> I could sell that to private eye for pseuds corner.


I had an extract in pseuds corner umpteen years ago - I've always thought it was the highlight of my career. :?
Maybe we could have something similar on UKW...


----------



## axe

pollys13":1mwu2kqs said:


> ace":1mwu2kqs said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not the most intereting thing but just finished this -
> /
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting design, nice, I like that. Did you use a V router bit to get the tongue, groove effect? How did you do the framing for the light?
Click to expand...


The three "V" grooved panels are 1 3/4" thick bevelled at the corners with two loose tongues in the edges. They are cut over the bottom rail on the outside which is around 1 1/4" thick. bottom rail has bare faced tenons.

The light is formed with beading rebated over the face of the door. The bottom bead is wider with a gap underneath to allow drainage for the sealed unit.

Made with Western Red Cedar.


----------



## axe

Roll round garage doors


----------



## Trainee neophyte

ace":3ikpdmj2 said:


> Roll round garage doors



Need MUCH more information: How? With what? DIY Hardware? Fittings? Please tell more.


----------



## MarkDennehy

_please be a tambour... please be a tambour... please be a tambour...._


----------



## stuckinthemud

Had a large piece of nasty-looking apple wood, about 3-foot long, bent at a big knot, heavily splintered from when it was cleaved, but with a lovely streak of red heartwood and every time I tried to put it out for the neighbour’s log-burner, I just couldn’t bring myself to do it, a few hours with a carving axe, rasp and a couple of big gouges this is the result. I let the wood do the talking, just following all those big splits, you can see there’s a couple still left in the bowl, though they are glued tight shut now. Finished with sunflower oil (its food-safe). Nice big ladle, with an 18″ long handle, the wood twisting through about 60 degrees meaning it is really comfortable to use.


----------



## axe

Made from Western Red Cedar. Mortise and tenon construction. T&G boards. Bottom rail with bare faced tenons.

Sliding "Round the corner" door track Tangent 301 made by Henderson.
https://www.pchenderson.com/product/tangent-round-corner-door-hardware/

Rolls around the corner and stores along the left hand wall.

Provides a nice personnel door to the left so you don't need to open the whole door to gain access.

Concrete lintel cast in-situ faced with brick slips.

Can't think of anything more to say but please ask if there's anything you would like to know.


----------



## Rich C

My first attempt at making dovetails. I'm calling it a success.


----------



## rafezetter

Chris152":3v55zp9b said:


> Lump of firewood, reworked.
> 
> It's getting cold here now, so I've been splitting logs. Spent the evening trying to work out how to do the knots - comes with a free guide on the lark's head noose knot so it can be remade when it shrinks and falls apart.



Careful where you leave that mate, or you'll come back and find some eejits wired a light bulb holder to it and stuck a lampshade made of "vintage" newspaper pages on it.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Yew shelf for shoes with ABW feet (i’ve posted a little WIP in the projects sub-forum)...


----------



## doctor Bob

Few mirrored doors coming together


----------



## memzey

Nice! Do you fit the mirrors in a groove like a regular panel or are they installed via a rebate with a retainer of some sort bob?


----------



## MikeG.

Cor, a groove would be a gamble! :lol:


----------



## doctor Bob

Big surface rebate for the mirror, 13mm deep in a 25mm MR MDF panel.
Mirror is glued in then the 9mm fretwork glued to mirror.

The real issue is rebating out one side of a 25mm panel causes massive bowing in 2 directions.
So the mirrors have to be glued in flat and act as a lamination to keep the boards flat. Hence in the image you can see 6 doors all clamped down whilst the mirror adhesive goes off (12hrs)


----------



## memzey

Brilliant. Do you glue in some beading on the inside of the door as well? I note that with this method you can’t repair the door if the mirror breaks.


----------



## Mr T

Here is a Mandora I finished last week. I started work on it about thrity years ago but then house renovation and starting anew business and life in general got in the way.

The mandfora is a medieval musical instrument. This one is hollowed out of a single block of 3" maple. The scroll at the head is not quite in keeping with a medieval instrument, it's more baroque, but having previously made a violin I decided to stick with what I knew. I didn't turn the pegs.

I am not musical myself so I have no idea if it plays well or not.

Chris


----------



## MikeG.

doctor Bob":1ieqr9j7 said:


> Big surface rebate for the mirror, 13mm deep in a 25mm MR MDF panel.
> Mirror is glued in then the 9mm fretwork glued to mirror.
> 
> The real issue is rebating out one side of a 25mm panel causes massive bowing in 2 directions.
> So the mirrors have to be glued in flat and act as a lamination to keep the boards flat. Hence in the image you can see 6 doors all clamped down whilst the mirror adhesive goes off (12hrs)



I had the pleasure of visiting Doctor Bob's workshop last week, and I saw these mirror doors still weighted down. I hadn't realised that MRMDF distorts when large cut-outs are made, nor had I realised that a piece of 4mm glass is enough to hold it back flat.


----------



## MusicMan

Mr T said:


> Here is a Mandora I finished last week. I started work on it about thrity years ago but then house renovation and starting anew business and life in general got in the way.
> 
> The mandfora is a medieval musical instrument. This one is hollowed out of a single block of 3" maple. The scroll at the head is not quite in keeping with a medieval instrument, it's more baroque, but having previously made a violin I decided to stick with what I knew. I didn't turn the pegs.
> 
> I am not musical myself so I have no idea if it plays well or not.
> 
> Chris
> Looks lovely! But you must find a player and let it speak!
> 
> Keith


----------



## thetyreman

finished making a shooting board today.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Mr T":1y0i8vj3 said:


> Here is a Mandora I finished last week. I started work on it about thrity years ago but then house renovation and starting anew business and life in general got in the way.


Gorgeous instrument. I am intrigued at the idea it was 30 years in the making. Did your 30 years younger self have different skills, or lack of skills - was it evident you had changed in the interim? There is a story here, if you want to tell it. You don't have to, though. Ignore me if I am being intrusive.


----------



## AndyT

thetyreman":2pxxtb0n said:


> finished making a shooting board today.



Nice, and a good reminder to some of us to get round to making one, or a better one.
Something I am never really sure about is which orientation to go for - forward onto the bench, like yours, or parallel to the bench. I expect with ordinary sizes of work it makes little difference. 

I understand the reason for the pair of mitre positions - with something like a moulded picture frame you can't just flip the piece over. But to use your nearer mitre position, you'd need to reach over the workpiece and pull the plane towards you. Or have you made the underneath block swappable so it can be screwed on at 90 degrees to its present position, letting you plane left to right as well as right to left?


----------



## thetyreman

AndyT":12am2423 said:


> thetyreman":12am2423 said:
> 
> 
> 
> finished making a shooting board today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, and a good reminder to some of us to get round to making one, or a better one.
> Something I am never really sure about is which orientation to go for - forward onto the bench, like yours, or parallel to the bench. I expect with ordinary sizes of work it makes little difference.
> 
> I understand the reason for the pair of mitre positions - with something like a moulded picture frame you can't just flip the piece over. But to use your nearer mitre position, you'd need to reach over the workpiece and pull the plane towards you. Or have you made the underneath block swappable so it can be screwed on at 90 degrees to its present position, letting you plane left to right as well as right to left?
Click to expand...


I will put another block under it I think the first time I need to shoot a mitred moulded profile, which in my case is not very often/hardly ever.


----------



## Chris152

I just put this together, having made the 'plinth' months ago following advice in the AOB section.




It's oak and some cheap white wood - the oak was finished with yacht varnish and the whitewood was burned and oiled, then attached with a couple of screws so it can be replaced when someone breaks it. It was made from scraps I was given, the only bit I had to buy was the small block of oak which cost £4 at Yandles. It's about 3' x 3' x 7'.


----------



## fiveeyes

sculpture?


----------



## Bm101

You'll be alright if two really tall people and one _REALLY_ short person comes round for a BBQ now Chris.


----------



## Chris152

Bm101":1pnjx0lj said:


> You'll be alright if two really tall people and one _REALLY_ short person comes round for a BBQ now Chris.


... so long as we don't start running out of wood to burn.


----------



## Geoff_S

Actually looks nice, but if you're running out of things to do ..... call me


----------



## El Barto

Quick and easy wedding present for a friend. Would have been quicker and easier if I hadn't used such a hideous piece of timber for the top...


----------



## Simon89

Love how the table top has a smiley face in it


----------



## D.Stephenson

Finished and delivered this the other day. It’s a simplified split top Roubo style workbench. The next one will be for me and have a proper woodworking vice [WINKING FACE]












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## El Barto

Simon89":1enjs4u6 said:


> Love how the table top has a smiley face in it



Ha ha me too. Best thing about it.


----------



## skelph

_D.Stephenson_ - now that's what I call a bench dog! (nice bench as well)
skelph


----------



## axe

Cooker Hood


----------



## whiskywill

ace":z2jdqoj9 said:


> Cooker Hood


----------



## axe

whiskywill":16winbpq said:


> ace":16winbpq said:
> 
> 
> 
> Cooker Hood
Click to expand...


Don't understand?


----------



## MikeJhn




----------



## whiskywill

ace":1jhf5rcx said:


> whiskywill":1jhf5rcx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ace":1jhf5rcx said:
> 
> 
> 
> Cooker Hood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Don't understand?
Click to expand...


Neither do I. Should have said "What wood did you use? Silver Birch?" The preview said what it was supposed to be but the post got messed up somewhere.


----------



## axe

The core is bendable plywood laminated in 4 layers to form the curves.

Faced with metallic Formica type plastic laminate.

Looks far more effective than I thought it would.


----------



## Jamesc

Thats impressive, I may just poach your idea here as we have been pndering how to make the cooker hood we want


----------



## MikeJhn

Couple of picture frames and mounts for my OH's art:


----------



## pollys13

Very nice, talented, does she do this commercially, if so web site? Be nice to see her other work.


----------



## MikeJhn

She's an amateur and gives most of what she paint's away, much to my chagrin, these are the only two I have persuaded her to keep, but I think I will have to nail them to the wall.


----------



## Bm101

Very nice. I love the ferocity of the top one in particular. The colours of the frames and mounts work well Mike.


----------



## MikeJhn

Buzzards always look like that, especially when they have a kill to pluck, the colours of the frames and mounts are something that we take a lot of time over, lots of bits around the picture to see what my OH would like before the decision is made, but she will change her mind sometimes after I have cut everything and have to start again, but she never notice's that the next picture has the one I did earlier around it, I think. #-o


----------



## MikeG.

MikeJhn":3uar71im said:


> Buzzards always look like that, especially when they have a kill to pluck.....



Buzzards are carrion eaters. They very rarely kill.

This actually looks more like a kestrel to me.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

He did say "a kill" not "their kill".


----------



## MikeG.

Well yes.......road kill falls in that category. The buzzards' primary source of food are game birds (pheasant, partridge, grouse etc) shot and left, or killed by cars. Their revival is closely linked to the number of game birds released into the wild each year.


----------



## Sheffield Tony

ace":1tn561sy said:


> The core is bendable plywood laminated in 4 layers to form the curves.
> 
> Faced with metallic Formica type plastic laminate.
> 
> Looks far more effective than I thought it would.



A wooden cooker hood. Is that a good idea ? Minimum distance to combustables from a hob anyone ?


----------



## whiskywill

MikeJhn":337yh2wl said:


> Couple of picture frames and mounts for my OH's art:



I am familiar with flower presses but how do you flatten a bird?


----------



## MikeJhn

MikeG.":2tycj2x7 said:


> MikeJhn":2tycj2x7 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Buzzards always look like that, especially when they have a kill to pluck.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buzzards are carrion eaters. They very rarely kill.
> 
> This actually looks more like a kestrel to me.
Click to expand...


You are looking at the wrong picture, one is a Kestrel the other is the Buzzard, and I have seen one of our local Buzzards take a pigeon out of a tree in the copse opposite our house.

In Fact one of the Buzzards mugged the pigeon in the tree, it fell to the ground and another Buzzard jumped on it, so it may be able to be called tree kill as opposed to road kill. :wink:


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Not wood, but my first attempt at stained glass. I've yet to finish the back, so there are still a few lumps and bumps.


----------



## MikeJhn

Is this a stand alone pice or will it be incorporated into a window?

Talking of fish, another art piece.


----------



## craigs

Ambrosia maple and Zebrano box was the last thing i made, theres a loose piece of felt in the bottom, i was just seeing how that kinda thing looks, decided i don't want to go that route and will have a stab at lining it following Custards guide.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

MikeJhn":3eq77j7x said:


> Is this a stand alone pice or will it be incorporated into a window?


It's for hanging - I'll put a couple of wires on it when I solder the back. It'll hang in the bathroom on white tiles. Or else it might be surface mounted on a mirror.


----------



## MikeJhn

Should look really good against a white background, very nice.


----------



## Bm101

MikeJhn":igxs6e7o said:


> Should look really good against a white background, very nice.


Or hanging in the bathroom window.


----------



## Bm101

craigsalisbury":1nxnnk7n said:


> Ambrosia maple and Zebrano box was the last thing i made, theres a loose piece of felt in the bottom, i was just seeing how that kinda thing looks, decided i don't want to go that route and will have a stab at lining it following Custards guide.


Go for it Craig. It's a foolproof guide. My first attempts were top notch which shows just _how_ good a guide it is. Get the right thickness card and suede, take your time and it's just marvelous.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Bm101":3446p0u3 said:


> MikeJhn":3446p0u3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Should look really good against a white background, very nice.
> 
> 
> 
> Or hanging in the bathroom window.
Click to expand...

It would work well - the photo isn't particularly good - all the colours are translucent/iridescent.


----------



## Bm101

Well I've been experimenting with some arty type stuff myself.

Here we have a cubist revisionary idealisation of 8 bit Pacman in 3 dimensional 4 sided oak with googly eye. 





Until I get famous and can sell intellectual concepts to bankers with money to launder semi legally I have decided to keep it safe by using its core artistic elements as newel caps for my house. 
Avant garde don't come close.






Look at his little face.
Bless.


----------



## SammyQ

Chris, this is Saturday night. W.T.F. are you inhaling/imbibing/masticating? 

If it's cheap, can you please direct me to your supplier?

Sam


----------



## thetyreman

I went crazy and made an over engineered bandsaw tensioner out of brass, brass rod and a lump of ash, looks a bit minecrafty but it feels solid:


----------



## bourbon

Made this for a relative newbie to our re-enactment group a couple of weeks ago. Closed season, so time to fix things that got broke/would like to have.


----------



## bourbon

Our Blacksmith made the hinges


----------



## Raymond UK

Harry's new pine toy box.


----------



## Hattori-Hanzo

Very cool Raymond I like that.


----------



## AndyT

I finished this smoothing plane today. It's made of boxwood (thanks Custard!) with a holly wedge. 
















I've done very little plane making before, but I seem to have watched so many YouTube videos that I decided it was high time to have another go. It's not as easy as it looks and I expect you can all see the many mistakes a beginner would make.

There is one glaringly obvious problem though...











... it's far too small!  :


----------



## doctor Bob

Bm101":3t1r2lmd said:


> Look at his little face.
> Bless.



Bonkers but brilliant. Have you named him?


----------



## Bm101

Ha, I'm afraid the Mrs advised me not to get too attached Bob. Thought it best not to give him a name. 
I have a feeling he will be discreetly _dissappeared_ at some point. The neighbours probably won't see a thing.


----------



## MusicMan

Sell it to a musical instrument maker! It's nice.


----------



## Sheptonphil

Just found my pictures of the cake stand and wedding card post box I made for step son’s wedding earlier this year. Theme was woodland rustic. 

The cake stand is natural edge oak slab, Hawthorne branch and Sycamore cake boards. The post box is 24” high 12” diameter Sycamore hand hollowed to take 60 cards through a slot in the top, brass screws to top to prevent scroats helping themselves to cards. Both plaques English oak. Mushrooms from ash from the log pile. All the place setting name plates were slices of ash and carved with individual names, a magnet in the back and they were taken home as fridge magnets.


----------



## doctor Bob

Bm101":71p3by6o said:


> Ha, I'm afraid the Mrs advised me not to get too attached Bob. Thought it best not to give him a name.
> I have a feeling he will be discreetly _dissappeared_ at some point. The neighbours probably won't see a thing.



Remember a newel post topper is not just for Christmas, your wife is heartless ............. suppose she'll just toss the little fella away after Christmas and never look back, unbelievable!!!!


----------



## pulleyt

I recently completed a couple of built-in cupboards either side of the chimney breast in our front room. A big thank you to Peter Millard for his very helpful videos that gave me the confidence to have a go. It was my first time working with MDF for something other than a workshop jig, but as it was to be painted it seemed logical to keep the cost down (good paint is quite an expense on its own).






Not the best of photos, but I was pleased with the result. The left cupboard has sliding doors as a sofa goes next to it - it's used for firewoood and associated storage for use with the stove and house the audio equipment. The right cupboard stores CDs and DVDs (I can't let go of the CDs even though I mostly stream music these days) and the shelf has the video equipment.

I bought a sheet of 6mm MDF for the infills and drawer bottoms which left quite a few off-cuts which influenced this year's 'Christmas card' idea (3 down, 57 to go).


----------



## pulleyt

I've also just finished a silhouette lamp as a birthday present. 






The four faces are all cut out of maple re-sawing off-cuts, planed and thicknessed to 6mm. The rest of the holder uses an unknown dark hardwood recovered from a discarded piece of furniture and ash re-sawing off-cuts.






There are four different faces to choose from for the main display in the room.
This was a fun project and I really like the fact that I made inroads into the off-cuts pile! More similar projects needed to make a real dent, though.


----------



## pulleyt

It's always nice to clear the scrap bin a little. the latest projects got rid of a bit more.

Firstly, nothing original but a first for me. I'd got quite a few hints about a bread board so I looked out some maple, walnut, padauk and purple heart. 






The second present is unsolicited but I came across a design from Sheila Landry for a Poinsettia Serviette Holder which looked like fun. Another time I might have a go at the segmented version but I stuck to the fretwork version for now. I wanted some colour so I painted the inside edges of the cutouts and sanded the outside faces back to bare wood before finishing.






(I managed to find some poinsettia print serviettes to complete the present).

Merry Christmas to all,
Trevor


----------



## MikeG.

"Dad, could you just........"

So this is a box for my daughter's friend's Spanish grandmother from my daughter's friend's boyfriend.....none of whom I have met (well, you know, daughter excepted). The lid is part of a traditional coal-burning cooker, the Asturian equivalent of an Aga:





















The top needs bending straight. The mitres were an absolute pig because I couldn't hold anything in place to mark. I can't say I enjoyed it very much, but it got me out into the workshop when there were plenty of other chores lined up around here for me to do.


----------



## transatlantic

Love the woodwork, not sure about the lid.

Sorry for your loss.


----------



## MikeG.

Loss? Oh yes, I see what you mean. Hopefully they don't see it the same way in Spain.


----------



## Trevanion

_Oh my_, Christmas had really come around quick this year and I haven't got anything to give :? 

I need something quick and easy... I know! Picture Frames! With Dogs! How can anything go wrong with something as simple as a picture frame!? I've made oak window frames to fit a 1/4 tonne piece of glass before, surely a picture frame would be childs play...

I don't think I've had so much stress gluing anything else up in my whole life! 

First Attempt: Mitrefast and hold each corner until it goes off, It's what *MITRE*fast for isn't it? Well evidently not because the bloody thing fell apart in my hands... back to the drawing board.

Attempt the second: Mitrefast and splines in the corners, this worked but I couldn't get it closed up neat enough that I was happy with it  

Third times the charm: Thrown the Mitrefast down the road, what a load of rubbish, doesn't even do what it says on the tin! Cut new mitres on the ends to get rid of the spline cuts and pulled out the old trusty PVA glue, masking taped each mitre so that it closed like a hinge and then clamped it in the vice with a couple more clamps to close up the mitres.

Acceptable. Not overly 100% happy with the mitres, makes me wish I still had access to a guillotine.






To those who make good picture frames, I salute you. :lol:


----------



## Blackswanwood

A couple of jewellery boxes just finished in time for a friend to give his daughters as Christmas presents ... hope this works ... I’m better with a chisel than a computer!


----------



## MikeG.

Blackswanwood":3s4zyi4y said:


> A couple of jewellery boxes just finished in time for a friend to give his daughters as Christmas presents ........



I'll just quietly delete mine........nobody will notice.


----------



## siggy_7

MikeG.":3utoolzo said:


> I'll just quietly delete mine........nobody will notice.



I know exactly how you feel Mike, I was thinking of posting a picture of my daughter's workbench I've just finished off for her gift today, took one look at recent stuff on here and thought better of it. I still have a long way to go. And you have nothing to be humble about, I think that's a wonderfully made box.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk


----------



## Blackswanwood

MikeG.":3nhp6jr0 said:


> Blackswanwood":3nhp6jr0 said:
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of jewellery boxes just finished in time for a friend to give his daughters as Christmas presents ........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just quietly delete mine........nobody will notice.
Click to expand...


You have plenty of projects on here that put me in the shade Mike - Happy Christmas


----------



## owen

siggy_7":4vzioyuf said:


> MikeG.":4vzioyuf said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just quietly delete mine........nobody will notice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know exactly how you feel Mike, I was thinking of posting a picture of my daughter's workbench I've just finished off for her gift today, took one look at recent stuff on here and thought better of it. I still have a long way to go. And you have nothing to be humble about, I think that's a wonderfully made box.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Just post some pics of it mate, everyone's got different abilities on here, if you're proud of it, that's all that matters! Merry Christmas


----------



## Jacob

New solid sycamore table-top finished yesterday. Fits the room better - longer but narrower. 
Old table made 20 years ago


----------



## Lons

Nice table =D>


----------



## julianf

Please note - 

The *only* part of this by my hand is the metal work (the front panel). The design and electronics, the rest of the case, etc. is nothing to do with me.

The builder sent me the photos and it's impressive enough to post.


















Normally people just send me cad files and I ship them metal work, and never see it again, so it's interesting when someone sends back a photo of the finished item.


----------



## jeremyduncombe

As a regular worker and only occasional poster, I have had a lot of pleasure out of this forum. This is the last thing I made, as a bit of fun on my new scroll saw. - and finished just in time, last night. It seems an appropriate way to wish you all a very merry Christmas.

Don’t look too closely at the picture, or you will see all my mistakes. I am learning the hard way that a scroll saw punishes impatience very quickly.


----------



## MikeJhn

It's spelt correctly, that's good enough for me. :wink:


----------



## Jacob

MikeJhn":v1a9ep5t said:


> It's spelt correctly, that's good enough for me. :wink:


spelled? :lol:


----------



## Raymond UK

Jacob":14pvexpw said:


> MikeJhn":14pvexpw said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's spelt correctly, that's good enough for me. :wink:
> 
> 
> 
> spelled? :lol:
Click to expand...


In US English it's spelled. You can use both spelt and spelled in UK and AUS English. :wink:


----------



## SammyQ

"Spelt" is bread, "spelled" is past tense. :-" 

Then there's "dealt" as opposed to "dealed".... :? 

Sam, having stirred...or is it "stirt"....


----------



## MikeG.

SammyQ":tfxk3qce said:


> "Spelt" is bread, "spelled" is past tense. :-" .............



No.......but so what.

I once lost 5% in a University essay for spelling "rooves" rather than "roofs". I copied the page in the dictionary confirming rooves was fine, but the lecturer still didn't like it and I never got my marks back.


----------



## Trevanion

MikeG.":mfkbr225 said:


> I once lost 5% in a University essay for spelling "rooves" rather than "roofs". I copied the page in the dictionary confirming rooves was fine, but the lecturer still didn't like it and I never got my marks back.



There's trying to get a high standard of work from your pupils and there's being a complete n*bhead.

I think you may have had the latter Mike.


----------



## MikeG.

Trevanion":2x8l82m5 said:


> .......There's trying to get a high standard of work from your pupils and there's being a complete n*bhead.
> 
> I think you may have had the latter Mike.



It would have been a statistical miracle if I hadn't, given the huge proportion of lecturers who fell into that latter category. Architecture was, in my experience, taught by some of the strangest people you'll ever meet.


----------



## Dokkodo

julianf":35i4759m said:


>



that looks like a very fun toy


----------



## SammyQ

> "Architecture was, in my experience, taught by some of the strangest people you'll ever meet."



Lucky you never encountered the Psychology lecturers who got lumped into the 'Life Sciences' faculty alongside us normal (! yeah, right..) biologists and ecologists. Never seen such a collection of lunar-influenced individuals outside of a specicialist containment ward...

Sam

Edit: Sorry Mods, thread derailment; I's contrite.


----------



## Farm Labourer

I love those jewellery boxes.

Here's a table-top I made from bowling alley lane from the Hardwood offcut shop in Essex - I've edged it with dovetailed sapele. The stand was made by the owner of the the bowling alley offcut. It's slow-grown pine but it's just nailed together. I routed grooves on the bottom with 12" centres to take inch wide strips of galvanised steel which are 1/4" thick and screwed to the top every 3" to minimise movement. Started Sat and all finished for Christmas Day!


----------



## MikeJhn

MikeG.":gikl9nrb said:


> Trevanion":gikl9nrb said:
> 
> 
> 
> .......There's trying to get a high standard of work from your pupils and there's being a complete n*bhead.
> 
> I think you may have had the latter Mike.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would have been a statistical miracle if I hadn't, given the huge proportion of lecturers who fell into that latter category. Architecture was, in my experience, taught by some of the strangest people you'll ever meet.
Click to expand...


The Josef Seifert monstrosities and all the copies during the 60's prove you point exactly.


----------



## Doug B

Made these 3 Maple & Cherry breadboard ended chopping boards for my good lady wife who likes handmade gifts for Xmas, 3 days in the house & already showing slight signs of movement so glad I allowed plenty of room on the tongues for the pegs


----------



## Fitzroy

It was time to upgrade from my old mallet, the chicken leg mallet as my boys think it looks. It’s a piece of sycamore hacked to a shape that works, for the last two years. 

New one is also sycamore but feels a bit nicer in the hand. Not convinced on the leather face as it seems to be marking easily. 

Making it was a fun experience with plenty learnt. Building up a joint from pieces enables a very snug fit with ease. I’ve seen plenty of folks on Utube work with a solid lump for the head and cut a through mortice, I’m not convinced mine would meet in the middle! Wedged tenons need some space to work, it was hell to get such narrow wedges in and I amazed they’ve not too many noticeable gaps.











Fitz.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Fitzroy":cqk45pms said:


> It was time to upgrade from my old mallet, the chicken leg mallet as my boys think it looks. It’s a piece of sycamore hacked to a shape that works, for the last two years.
> 
> New one is also sycamore but feels a bit nicer in the hand. Not convinced on the leather face as it seems to be marking easily.
> 
> Making it was a fun experience with plenty learnt. Building up a joint from pieces enables a very snug fit with ease. I’ve seen plenty of folks on Utube work with a solid lump for the head and cut a through mortice, I’m not convinced mine would meet in the middle! Wedged tenons need some space to work, it was hell to get such narrow wedges in and I amazed they’ve not too many noticeable gaps.
> 
> View attachment 75858432
> 
> 
> View attachment 318
> 
> 
> Fitz.



Just what I am planning to make - very smart indeed. There's no way mine is going to come out looking as shiny as that one :-(

I actually rather like your old one - it has a certain style.


----------



## MikeJhn

I don't just like the old one, I prefer it. (hammer)


----------



## Racers

I spent 3 hours yesterday afternoon weaving this sea grass stool seat, I picked up a stool kit at a charity shop and I finally got round to weaving the seat, its quite simple to do as long as you are careful.

Pete



Sea grass stool top by Racers, on Flickr

Pete


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Racers":2wtku77t said:


> I spent 3 hours yesterday afternoon weaving this sea grass stool seat, I picked up a stool kit at a charity shop and I finally got round to weaving the seat, its quite simple to do as long as you are careful.
> 
> Pete
> 
> 
> 
> Sea grass stool top by Racers, on Flickr
> 
> Pete



I clicked on your Flickr link thinking I would see more of the stool, and just lost half an hour submerged in your photos - gosh! Textures. Wow. Haven't got anywhere near the stool yet, I don't think, but I love what you do with the natural stuff. The stool is very cool, too.


----------



## Racers

Thanks, it's something else I enjoy doing. 

Pete


----------



## will1983

Picture frame made for a family friend's 50th birthday.

This is actually the third iteration, first was AWO but I cut a part to short so that went in the bin. Second one was in Kerruing but I didn't like it so that has gone in the emergency present pile. Third and final version is some left over ash with a bit of spalting in it.

Finish is two coats of Liberon Black Bison wax.

The picture is from Etsy.


----------



## will1983

Recently completed wardrobe for a client. 4m long x 2.8m high.

AWO veneered cabinetry with sprayed MRMDF doors/trim.

Morrells water based lacquer colour matched to Dulux Sapphire Salute.


----------



## paulrockliffe

Fitzroy":1yb1z9dl said:


> It was time to upgrade from my old mallet, the chicken leg mallet as my boys think it looks. It’s a piece of sycamore hacked to a shape that works, for the last two years.
> 
> New one is also sycamore but feels a bit nicer in the hand. Not convinced on the leather face as it seems to be marking easily.
> 
> Making it was a fun experience with plenty learnt. Building up a joint from pieces enables a very snug fit with ease. I’ve seen plenty of folks on Utube work with a solid lump for the head and cut a through mortice, I’m not convinced mine would meet in the middle! Wedged tenons need some space to work, it was hell to get such narrow wedges in and I amazed they’ve not too many noticeable gaps.
> 
> View attachment 75858432
> 
> 
> View attachment 318
> 
> 
> Fitz.



How did you glue it together? I made one for my brother last Christmas and couldn't get the glue to hold well enough that it wouldn't break in use. 

I used some decorative bolts and went for a semi industrial look to sort mine out, which was fine as I made the thing slightly too big to ensure a sore arm in use as a bit of a joke rather than it being designed for everyday use.


----------



## Lons

SammyQ":1o9upxi0 said:


> Lucky you never encountered the Psychology lecturers who got lumped into the 'Life Sciences' faculty alongside us normal (! yeah, right..) biologists and ecologists. Never seen such a collection of lunar-influenced individuals outside of a specicialist containment ward...Sam.



When I did my teaching cert at the local college a number of years ago I had a choice of some of the elements and wanted powerpoint but as I was teaching that subject at the time the s*ds wouldn't let me :wink: so psychology it had to be and the 2 lecturers who handled that were truly hopeless.
I had a major disagreement with one of them in class and expected a fail but she marked me at 96% which I'm sure was because she was scared I'd report her.


----------



## SammyQ

"Trick cyclists"!!!  

Sam


----------



## MikeG.

SammyQ":2c5cydwz said:


> ..... the 'Life Sciences' faculty alongside us normal (! yeah, right..) biologists and ecologists........



My daughter is an animal behaviouralist, doing a PhD in Sweden as part of a long term study using jungle fowl. The people there seem to extraordinarily normal!


----------



## Fitzroy

paulrockliffe":297skvr2 said:


> Fitzroy":297skvr2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> It was time to upgrade from my old mallet, the chicken leg mallet...,
> 
> Fitz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you glue it together?
Click to expand...


Just PVA and a bunch of clamps, surfaces were off the thicknesser then planed to remove ridges and ensure a close fit. 

I did make one with the centre slice in an exotic offcut from the woodpile. The glue failed during wedging the tenon, the wood was very oily so assume that was the issue. 

Otherwise time will tell. Although I’m not planning on whacking the hell out of stuff with this as it’s too nice, I’m using it for chisel work and it’s holding up fine. 

F.


----------



## ED65

paulrockliffe":21n8d2bk said:


> How did you glue it together? I made one for my brother last Christmas and couldn't get the glue to hold well enough that it wouldn't break in use.


Glue joints should exceed the strength of the wood around them. If not then something's amiss. Assuming you're not using an exotic species, your glue is good and the wood was freshly prepared it's likely a clamping issue, that seems to be the usual source of failure these days because the myth about starving joints (from too much clamping pressure) continues to persist.

With PVAs you cannot clamp too hard, so if you build another one use a stupid number of clamps and don't be shy about cranking 'em up to 11


----------



## Deadeye

Finally finished the bookcase for my daughter.
So many mistakes and learned so much! The inlay was a bit of a nightmare. I wanted raised "blobs" and rounding them after I'd glued them into the holes was a horror. I should have either gone for the whole thing flush or glued on the pieces rather than insetting them.

Thanks everyone for the advice on glazing and to solve the inlay problem (I used a chisel in the end but sanding was tough).

She's pleased though, so that's good enough for me.


----------



## fezman

Deadeye - that looks brilliant. 

My planned office furniture will be built along a similar approach over the coming year, so this is nice to see something similar "delivered"

ian


----------



## jimmy_s

Completed before Christmas. Not really something I've made but part of the never ending home refurbishment. Wife wanted stove fitted and being a glutton for punishment I agreed.

Stripping out old open fireplace/ hearth only to find old fire opening had been well butchered in the past.






The stone ingoes have been battered with a mash hammer or similar. Hardly any bearing left for lintel. Lintel has also been broken and infilled with brick and good sized clump of cement. (sigh) Back of opening has been destroyed by someone battering ways through to the cupboard behind - probably a back boiler pipe route. Made good with bits of brick/ firebrick and anything else that was lying about. 

Had to take out remains of lintel/ brick infill where middle of lintel had been repaired, break out crappy repair to rear of opening.






Didn't think to take photo but then measure/ cut back ingoes to allow new sandstone legs to be fixed back so lintel could sit partly on old bearing surface of ingoes and also on new legs. Legs pinned back to old sandstone with stainless pins/ brackets. Ordered sandstone from local(ish) stonemasons in St Andrews and collected in back of car. 






Got new legs and lintels in and repaired back of opening and infilled section above with sandstone using lime mortar. 






Re-used old combistion air vent duct when making new hearth and positioned under stove. On Roof re-pointing chimney copes/ replacing clay pot and dropped down stainless liner. Sealed annulus between liner and fire gather with cement board and register plate.






Stove's done - just need to strip remains of lath and plaster off. Planning to needle gun back old pointing/ repoint a bit neater and leave wall as exposed sandsone as its internal so no heat loss or need for insulation.


----------



## Lons

Looks good Jimmy, vast improvement.

I assume you've had it checked and signed off by a suitably registered installer and / or local BI


----------



## MikeG.

I'm afraid that hearth isn't big enough to be in compliance. It needs to project at least 300mm in front of the wood burner.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Would it not comply if the floor in front of is non combustible?


----------



## MikeG.

I don't think so, but I haven't looked it up for a few weeks. There are two sorts of hearth needed for any fire...."constructional" and "forgotten the damn word"  . The size of each of them depends on a variety of factors, and is different for free-standing burners compared with ones in a fireplace. I think the upper hearth, the superficial one which I've forgotten the name of, is there to keep any floor covering safe from rolling embers or suchlike (they assume that the door isn't there). I guess the reasoning is that if there is a foot of solid hearth in front of the fire and standing proud of the floor then it would be impossible for someone to come along later and lay a carpet or timber floor within the danger zone. If left as per the photo, the next owner could easily carpet right up to within say 5 or 6 inches of the front of the fire. The constructional hearth is much bigger, being basically a zone of solid floor around the fire with no flammable materials, but it doesn't have to be visually demarcated.

The other measurements to check with this fire is that it stands 6 inches clear of all the walls forming the fireplace. It looks as though it probably does.......just.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Mine was installed by a registered fitter four years ago - I have no hearth at all, it's just on a tiled floor. He said theoretically he should mark the floor with coloured tape or something where the hearth would have been had the floor been flammable and take a photo to show he'd done it.


----------



## Phlebas

MikeG.":3ga5n9xv said:


> I don't think so, but I haven't looked it up for a few weeks. There are two sorts of hearth needed for any fire...."constructional" and "forgotten the damn word"  . The size of each of them depends on a variety of factors, and is different for free-standing burners compared with ones in a fireplace. I think the upper hearth, the superficial one which I've forgotten the name of, is there to keep any floor covering safe from rolling embers or suchlike (they assume that the door isn't there). I guess the reasoning is that if there is a foot of solid hearth in front of the fire and standing proud of the floor then it would be impossible for someone to come along later and lay a carpet or timber floor within the danger zone. If left as per the photo, the next owner could easily carpet right up to within say 5 or 6 inches of the front of the fire. The constructional hearth is much bigger, being basically a zone of solid floor around the fire with no flammable materials, but it doesn't have to be visually demarcated.
> 
> The other measurements to check with this fire is that it stands 6 inches clear of all the walls forming the fireplace. It looks as though it probably does.......just.



Relevant extract from Scottish Regs: 

*A solid fuel appliance should be provided with a solid, non-combustible hearth that will prevent the heat of the appliance from igniting combustible materials. A hearth should be provided to the following dimensions:

a constructional hearth at least 125mm thick and with plan dimensions in accordance with the following sketches, or

a free-standing, solid, non-combustible hearth at least 840 x 840mm minimum plan area and at least 12mm thick, provided the appliance will not cause the temperature of the top surface of the hearth on which it stands to be more than 100ºC.
*

There's quite a bit more, but you can see the jist. My understanding is that if the stove is a modern one that satisfies the 100 deg C requirement you don't need a constructional hearth. 

I think the dimension in front of the appliance is 225mm for a closed appliance, or 300mm for an open one, or one theat can be 'properly' used with the door open. Most modern stoves probably shouldn't be used with the doors open. 

But, of course, usual disclaimer: no one should rely on generic advice from the internet. I could easily be wrong.

Oh, and is the term you are looking for 'superimposed hearth'?


----------



## MikeG.

Phlebas":2ibr2lhd said:


> ....... is the term you are looking for 'superimposed hearth'?



It sounds right!


----------



## Bm101

Heads up that Jimmy s is in Scotland...


----------



## jimmy_s

Sorry the photo doesn't show it but the existing hearth is at low level and is a concrete slab - old hearth stone had presuably been butchered by the previous installer who fitted the baxi fire with ducted air. The hearth is 450mm deep. I got an old cast iron fender off gumtree - just a low one and fitted that and tiled inside it to catch any escaping logs. I

There is a cunning plan in all this (hope my wife isn't reading) The old part of the house has an exisiting suspended timber floor which has inadequate ventilation and can't be properly insulated as I'll end up with interstitial condensation. We have a step from the extension into the old part of the house. My intention is to strip out the suspended timber floors, level with type 1 pour a new concrete slab/ insulate/ add underfloor heating / screed. My intention is to raise the floor level in the old part to the level of the hearth that's under the stove, which I've set to the same level as the floor in the extension. By raising the floor by 140mm I should have some room for a reasonable amount of floor insulation. 

Problem is my wife likes the step ? - no idea why but she's reluctant to let me get rid of it. I need to get the floors sorted to allow me to get the walls stripped back so I can frame out and insulate. Maybe with Icyenene otherwise kingspan/ cellotex - have to look at costs.


----------



## jimmy_s

Clearences are in accordance with the building regs/ stove manufacturers requirements. It doesn't look it but the sandstone to the rear of the opening is over 200mm thick and the sides are solid sandstone so all surfaces in the proximity of the stove are non combustable and satisfy the minimum thickness for safety distances. 

It complies with the regs. - I deal with heating/ flues/ fire regs etc daily, it's how I make my living.


----------



## woodbloke66

A box to hold medication for my cousin.

















Nothing fancy, made from oddments of quarter sawn oak, dovetailed together with a hand carved thumb pull left from the tool. The top was mitred to cover the small square holes that would otherwise need plugging. Finished with three coats of Peacock Oil, two of Osmo PolyX and a couple of applications of Alfie Shine - Rob


----------



## Bm101

Nice box. What's the advantage in mixing finishes like that Rob? 
Genuine question obviously.


----------



## woodbloke66

Bm101":12mdqsx9 said:


> Nice box. What's the advantage in mixing finishes like that Rob?
> Genuine question obviously.



I found that the Peacock Oil seemed to give an extra depth of finish to the Osmo. I'm not sure if it's my imagination, but it seemed to have some sort of additional 'lustre' that Osmo alone didn't provide - Rob


----------



## Lons

jimmy_s":1rq7v89w said:


> It complies with the regs. - I deal with heating/ flues/ fire regs etc daily, it's how I make my living.



That's good Jimmy, I'm pretty sure fitting a woodburner requires building control approval in England.

If you want to get rid of the step just do it when she's out, I knocked down an internal wall in our first house while she was at work, she didn't want me to but agreed it was right afterwards. She's rarely questioned anything since. :wink:

On reflection I'm not so sure I'd do it now, can't afford a divorce! :shock:


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Multi fuels and woodburners require approval if they are not fitted by a HETAS approved fitter. I was told when I had mine that it is better (and often more cost effective) to get a fitter, as they know the regs. better than the building inspectors, and the building inspector will often cover his back and over specify.


----------



## marcros

How are you finding the peacock oil Rob?


----------



## woodbloke66

marcros":2kws4k48 said:


> How are you finding the peacock oil Rob?


It's good stuff; I quite like it but as I said above it seems to improve the final effect of other finishes applied over it. To be fair, I haven't tried all the variants yet but thus far it seems to be OK. Unlike the Liberon Finishing Oil that I've used in the past, there's no 'build up' with multiple coats and Matt at WH recommends walloping on three or four goodly coats within an hour and then letting it thoroughly dry for a week or ten days before applying anything else - Rob


----------



## marcros

it will be interesting to hear your thoughts in a few more months- it isn't cheap so I guess it is a question of whether it improves the other finishes enough to warrant buying it.


----------



## Slugsie

Here are a few photos of a knife I recently rehandled. It's my first try at this and I know I made a bunch of mistakes. But I'm still pleased with the result.

The wood is Sapele, with a thin layer of black plastic for a contrast. The wood and plastic are resin bonded together and to the blade, and then brass pins inserted and peened to provide extra mechanical strength and visual appeal. Finished with a few coats of mineral oil and then bees wax.


----------



## NickM

Finished constructing my workbench (Paul Sellers design). Just needs some oil to finish it off now. I enjoyed making it and learnt a lot. I’m looking forward to using it now.


----------



## thetyreman

NickM":6ca9bkc7 said:


> Finished constructing my workbench (Paul Sellers design). Just needs some oil to finish it off now. I enjoyed making it and learnt a lot. I’m looking forward to using it now.



very nice job =D>


----------



## Lons

For many years I've carved a stylized mark of my initials into many of my carvings and turnings and often thought of trying to make a hot branding iron so no golf today as it's persisting down, a couple of hours to spare some brass rod, threaded rod and scrap beech and this is what I came up with.

Attempt no 1, last pic..... anyone see the deliberate mistake. 
Yep forgot to reverse the image. #-o dozy git!  

So.... after a good cry and severe self kicking I cut off 2 hours of work and started again. Much better effort although it's really only me who recognises what it is I'm happy with it though will probably finesse it a bit especially where the L crosses the R to separate the letters a little. I didn't try too hard to keep the letter edges smooth as I quite like a rustic look, whether I'll actually use it is another thing.

Brass was cut using Dremel type and dental burrs but instead of the Dremel I used my Foredom flexi carver which is more controllable.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

... I used my Foredom ...

Ooooh, get you ... (only jealous).


----------



## Lons

phil.p":3minli0k said:


> ... I used my Foredom ...
> 
> Ooooh, get you ... (only jealous).



Was lucky to get it at a good price s/h about 6 years ago Phil, wasn't trying to show off.  

It's an older model and came with a spare flexi shaft and standard collet type handset but I bought an extra handset with a keyed chuck which is handy. It is a great bit of kit though so I consider myself very fortunate.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

An acquaintance, an extremely good silversmith, told me if his workshop burned to the ground it would be the one thing he'd save. I'd love one but it's quite a way down the list.


----------



## Lons

Good but overpriced Phil, no way I'd have even considered a new one but when this came up for grabs from a mate I just couldn't turn it down.


----------



## Farm Labourer

She could have made use of a shoe box but I raided the offcut bin. Ash and sapele - as that was what I had seven inches wide... six compartments and the lid was not part of the initial spec. Once I realised that I'd omitted the mitres on the lid, I'd already cut the groove for the top panel... ho hum! Lots of learning points!


----------



## MikeG.

Excellent, FL.


----------



## david123

Nice one, very posh seed box lol


----------



## Fidget

I've just finished this mail box out of scrap bits of oak left over from some construction work being done on my house.

It's the first time I have tried hand cutting dovetails... maybe 14 was a bit ambitious! However I am pretty pleased with the result. 

All the wood was cut down to 12mm from thicker bits, edge joined and put through a thicknesser, then finished off with a hand plane, something i would never have done before I joined this forum as with the dovetails, thanks for the inspiration. It's been finished with very many coats of wipe-on matt poly, hopefully it will survive in my covered porch

Criticism welcomed :shock:


----------



## fezman

Just before Christmas, my Mum was using an old shoe box to store the nic nacs she uses regularly. Lets just say the shoe box had seen better days. 

So she asked for a simple box, of similar dimensions. Now the box lives at the side of, but just under a small chair, so a hinged lid was out of the question. I'd not done any DT's for a while so put this together as much for practice as anything. It's European Pippy Oak, with ABW strips. Finish is Osmo PolyX Clear Gloss.


----------



## pulleyt

I discovered the world of Kumiko on YouTube last year and was intrigued enough to have a go at a simple pattern to use in a side lamp. My inspiration came primarily from videos by Des King, Mike Farrington and Johnny Tromboukis.












The lamp frame is Oak with a coat of Osmo and the Kumiko panels are a friction fit. The panels, which are left unfinished, comprise Lime for the gridwork, Bubinga for the diagonals and Walnut for the in-fill. Now that it's completed I realise that, in a lamp at least, it's much more about the silhouette than the colours of the wood and I'll probably just stick to Lime for the next one.


----------



## MikeG.

Could you show or describe the joints where the three frame pieces meet at the corners?


----------



## AndyT

Fascinating!
Power tools or hand tools?


----------



## pulleyt

Ahhhh, you spotted my dilemma, Mike. 
I didn't think the lamp frame construction through thoroughly at the time I pulled the P/T out to prepare the materials (I was too concentrated on the Kumiko pieces). 

I'd prepared the Oak to 16mm square, the dimensions coming from what was usable from a board reclaimed timber I had lying around. The concept I was aiming for should have had larger dimension uprights as you have guessed. Given this is a trial piece and shouldn't receive much handling in normal use, I opted to compromise and go for a very weak joint and keep the protrusion feature (can't think of the appropriate technical term at the moment).




The horizontal 'squares' of the frame are made with half-lap joints with an additional 4mm trench cut to allow for a push fit of the upright pieces - this element of the joint being entirely dependent on glue. 

I chose the make vertical pieces the push fit joints as gravity would be a help in minimising stresses on the joint. Time will tell if I can get away with it but I wouldn't use this joint again!


----------



## pulleyt

AndyT":3mc60gyh said:


> Power tools or hand tools?


I mostly use power tools, Andy. To make the Kumiko strips I prepared a board to 12mm thickness and, using my bandsaw, cut a strip off both edges of the board and then went back to the planer to clean up each edge of the board before repeating. Finally, I cleaned up the sawn edge of the resulting strips in the thicknesser using an 18mm mdf board to allow thicknessing to 4mm for the Kumiok gridwork and 3mm for the in-fill strips.

I bought a 4mm FTG blade from Cutting Solutions recently and use that with a couple of cross-cut sleds on the table saw to cut all the half-lap joints (I'm particularly pleased with how well the FTG blade cuts).

Finally, I used my disc sander to do the majority of the Kumiko shaping using jigs to create the 22.5⁰, 45⁰ and 67.5⁰ angles needed.


----------



## MikeG.

pulleyt":1dvze7n6 said:


> Ahhhh, you spotted my dilemma, Mike.
> I didn't think the lamp frame construction through.......



It's a lamp. So long as the switch is detached from the lamp then it should never really need handling. It'll be fine. However, don't attempt to scale that up to a piece of furniture!!


----------



## woodbloke66

MikeG.":a2yrxo7k said:


> Could you show or describe the joints where the three frame pieces meet at the corners?


I did one similar a few years back...Dominos are your friend Mike :lol: - Rob


----------



## pulleyt

MikeG.":297grnfm said:


> However, don't attempt to scale that up to a piece of furniture!!


Indeed. If I'd had thicker stock to hand I wouldn't have used it for this. Definitely a one-off solution


----------



## MikeG.

woodbloke66":1mq1tzgr said:


> ....Dominos are your friend Mike .....



:lol: Dominoes will _never_ be my friend.


----------



## toolsntat

Not really a furniture worker but footstool made to match existing suite.
Cheers Andy
Now edited with pictures of completed footstool.


----------



## MikeG.

That'll look grand finished, Andy.


----------



## El Barto

Bloody hell there's some good stuff on here lately!


----------



## Trevanion

A pretty quintessential Victorian 6-panel door, not quite done yet, needs a couple more coats of paint.


----------



## Blackswanwood

toolsntat":1c9xq7rr said:


> Not really a furniture worker but made to match existing suite with top to be upholstered.
> Cheers Andy



That looks really smart.


----------



## Fitzroy

Modified the Kreg fence I bought on here to fit my Startrite 352. Had to drill a few extra holes and fit a new tape but chuffed with the outcome. 

Fence is attached two points to the right of the table slot and one to the left on 20mm spacers. Hope I can slide the blade out without removing the fence just by releasing the left side fixing. Should be ok with any blade <3/4”.

Fitz.


----------



## Blackswanwood

Mahogany and Kevazingo jewellery box ...


----------



## MikeG.

The last two posts are both things I can be pretty certain I'll never be doing! :lol:


----------



## Fitzroy

My woodworking is like a Billy Connolly sketch, it’s very circular and involves lots of tangents, but finally comes back to the start and everything resolves. 

I started this desk before the shelves I recently finished, but I put it in my boy’s room rough finished to see how it worked. Two weeks later it had so many books on it I had to build the shelves. Finally back to finish it! 

A simple desk made from two boards recycled from an old Victorian wardrobe, perhaps mahogany? Two rails float of the bottom to stiffen across the depth, width wise it’s stiff enough, I considered stopped sliding dovetails but decided they were beyond my ability. Hairpin legs off eBay for £35. 

Desk is asymmetrical to account for the space it needs to fit in where it overhangs a radiator. I was worried about the heat making things move but after two months sitting there in the rough it was fine. 

I stupidly edge jointed the boards with the grain running the opposite direction on the two boards. This combined with the wood having a real tendency to tear-out made planing the top flat a long process. Sharp irons and fine shavings were the only way forwards. Top is finished with Polyvine, which I’m going to leave to cure a few weeks before I try to finish dead smooth.





















Fitz.


----------



## MikeG.

What a piece of luck.....it fits precisely! 

That radiator could play havoc with the wood, though.


----------



## AndyT

Very nice. Lovely boards, without any screw holes or damage by the look of it. It's amazing what good wood still gets thrown away. Plus you get a made to measure piece exactly as required.


----------



## Blackswanwood

Looks great



Fitzroy":3opu1y7q said:


> I stupidly edge jointed the boards with the grain running the opposite direction on the two boards. This combined with the wood having a real tendency to tear-out made planing the top flat a long process. Sharp irons and fine shavings were the only way forwards.
> 
> Fitz.



I recently made the same error ... the side table it forms part of has sat at the side of the workshop for two months since as I can always find another project to work on rather than get round to sorting it!


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Grain is worth checking when using plugs, as well, especially in places you can't easily use a tool from one side. It's beyond irritating when you carefully shave the excess off the top of a plug only for it to break out the grain below the top of the workpiece.


----------



## Bm101

AndyT":3ixenfid said:


> It's amazing what good wood still gets thrown away.


You aren't kidding Andy. The Mrs came home from fitness class the other day.
'Want some wood? '
Eh?
'There's a fella at fitness who has some wood you can have. He bought his house off a retired woodworker and the garage was full of wood. He's been cutting it up and chucking it in the wood burner.'
My mouth is wide open.
'We got talking and he's a builder and he said you'd be welcome to it. He knows it's nice wood but couldn't be bothered to sell it. '
*My hand is on table to steady me and I'm trying to second guess the situation.
I know it's useless asking for any more details because for most people wood is just wood and I'll have to champ at the bit and be patient. 
I'm _hoping_ for a windfall but chances are it's some what less of a bonanza. Turning blanks possibly? 
Live in hope eh?!?

Nice table Fitz!


----------



## Trevanion

Bm101":1bn5bkju said:


> I'm _hoping_ for a windfall but chances are it's some what less of a bonanza. Turning blanks possibly?
> Live in hope eh?!?



I imagine the value of some timbers that have been chucked in the fireplace or landfill over the years must be staggering. I stole four 8x8" turned Cuban Mahogany pool table legs out of a skip once, you simply *can't* get that timber anymore and it was just going to landfill or someone's log burner. I gave them to a friend who was desperate to have them to make something with them but I did keep a carved section for myself to do something with, one day...

This guy is a bit of fresh air, goes to show you don't need to spend hundreds on wood to actually make something.

[youtube]NqZJ01sNQuw[/youtube]

Even his university office he decided having someone make something with fresh materials would be too costly for the university so he scavenged a bunch of old MFC desks and random bits of wood and made something serviceable. It's not winning any beauty contests but it goes to show with a bit of initiative you can build something with practically anything if you put your mind to it.

[youtube]8QpFFB1QHto[/youtube]


----------



## MikeG.

Funnily enough I watched his video of running along an old railway line maybe 6 months ago. He's a bit Aussie (loud :lol: ), but well worth a watch.


----------



## Doug71

Don't know how this will go down with the old guard on here as no hand tools were harmed in the making of it, it has "feature" through dominos and could be argued that it looks like it cost £50 from Ikea.....

It's a toy box with removable centre panel (can be blanket box once the child has grown up), birch ply finished with Osmo poly x. Contrasting through dominos to add a bit of interest, the customer teaches sewing and likes how it looks stitched together. Holes in the side are for rope handles which the customer is adding.


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## Blackswanwood

That looks really neat Doug ... if Ikea stuff was as good maybe they wouldn’t be closing their first store!


----------



## AndyT

Not sure who the old guard are... But that looks well designed, well made and practical.


----------



## doctor Bob

Here's a Couple of wardrobe runs we made and are installing this week. Not finished yet, hence no handles and the mess


----------



## NickM

I thought twice about sharing this after marvelling at Bob’s lovely work :shock: , but here’s a stool I made with pine left over from my workbench.

The design (which I made up) is a bit chunk really, but it’s only for me to rest my pins on in the workshop.

It was good practice for other things. It has slightly splayed legs so has lots of angled mortise and tenon joints.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

NickM":3m33apcx said:


> I thought twice about sharing this after marvelling at Bob’s lovely work :shock: , but here’s a stool I made with pine left over from my workbench.
> 
> The design (which I made up) is a bit chunk really, but it’s only for me to rest my pins on in the workshop.
> 
> It was good practice for other things. It has slightly splayed legs so has lots of angled mortise and tenon joints.



I'm still waiting to produce something worthy of posting, but if we all wait until we are at the the level of the resident masters, it's going to be pretty thin pickings in here.

Regarding being sturdy, we all know at some point you will be kneeling on the stool with a piece of wood and a handsaw, so spindly and fragile has no place in the workshop. It's actually a comfortable trestle, and a very well made one, at that.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Nice simple lathe stand, basically a fancy sawhorse with a flat top added to it. Beech legs, poplar crossbeam, oak top, pine footing (can you tell I'm using up whatever I had to hand?) 






Now all I need...






That's better  






And I did give it a quick test with some spindle turning before bolting everything down and the vibration is minimal even before bolting stuff down. The splay and rake on the legs really helps. If it turns out that small bowls get it to try to walk across the floor, I still have the option of screwing the footing down to the floor.


----------



## Fitzroy

What you get when the timber your using is all over the place and requires a lot of material taking off to get it straight. 

Roughly 5.5m linear of 20cm wide boards that started c.50mm thick and ended up 32mm thick which was about max I could get due to twist, bow, cup, you name it! 

Fitz.


----------



## Doug B

Not that exciting but a gate I've just finished for my Sister in law it's construction broke the monotony of machining timber, made from air dried English Sweet Chestnut


----------



## Trevanion

Doug B":te8sg7i5 said:


> Not that exciting but a gate I've just finished for my Sister in law it's construction broke the monotony of machining timber, made from air dried English Sweet Chestnut



9-10 screws per board!? I think the Titanic had fewer fasteners! :lol:

Looks lovely Doug.


----------



## Doug B

Trevanion":1a3jev99 said:


> Doug B":1a3jev99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not that exciting but a gate I've just finished for my Sister in law it's construction broke the monotony of machining timber, made from air dried English Sweet Chestnut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 9-10 screws per board!? I think the Titanic had fewer fasteners! :lol:
> 
> Looks lovely Doug.
Click to expand...


Belt, braces then a couple of cable ties for good measure :lol: :lol: 
Though in my defence her existing gate has lost some of its timbers as it’s in a very windy passage way & even though it has a self catching latch it can shut with a bang on occasion (hammer)


----------



## woodbloke66

MarkDennehy":3gopj9q6 said:


> Nice simple lathe stand, basically a fancy sawhorse with a flat top added to it. Beech legs, poplar crossbeam, oak top, pine footing (can you tell I'm using up whatever I had to hand?)


If you were within striking distance of Salisbury I could have given you free n'gratis a couple of really heavy cast iron brackets and legs meant for a Nova lathe stand (sent to me in error by Yandles) - Rob


----------



## Noho12C

Just finished this table, following plans and video from The English woodworker. 
Unfortunately not very stable, so planning to redo one with frames on each side.












Sent from my VKY-L09 using Tapatalk


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## thetyreman

I actually made this a couple of months ago, but decided to round off the edges and flatten it again as it had moved a bit, used a no80 cabinet scraper. I therefore had to re-finish it and used chestnut food safe oil, it gives a nice satin finish, haven't tried wetting it yet so we'll see how it holds up against water.



Breadboard End Cutting Board QS Beech 4 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Breadboard End Cutting Board QS Beech 2 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Breadboard End Cutting Board QS Beech 3 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Breadboard End Cutting Board QS Beech 1 by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## MikeG.

Proper job, Ben. =D>


----------



## NickM

I’ve added a drawer to my workbench (following the Paul Sellers video).

Making things for the workshop has been a good way of practising different joints (the drawer added half blind dovetails, housing dados and wedged tenons to the repertoire) and techniques whilst still getting something useful out of it. If it’s not absolutely perfect it’s not the end of the world because it’s just a workbench, and it’s only made from pine rather than rare and expensive timber.

I might now be getting to the point where I can do something “for the house”...


----------



## lurker

That drawer knob looks like it is at a potentially eye watering height


----------



## Nelsun

^That and the [very nicely executed!] drawer instantly fails as you can see exactly what's in it and easily pick what you want out of it. Please fill it with random junk (including an obligatory tattie masher to really pineapple things up) ASAP.


----------



## NickM

lurker":1l21fvyx said:


> That drawer knob looks like it is at a potentially eye watering height



Ha. A clash of knobs (as it were) is never a good thing...

In seriousness, I wondered whether the knob might get in the way and considered having a cut out at the top of the drawer so I could get a hand in to open it (with the downside of letting dust in). In the end I was impatient to get it finished and had the knob left over from a kitchen. I'll see how it goes.


----------



## NickM

Nelsun":25dr6kwg said:


> ^That and the [very nicely executed!] drawer instantly fails as you can see exactly what's in it and easily pick what you want out of it. Please fill it with random junk (including an obligatory tattie masher to really pineapple things up) ASAP.



It won't be long before it's overflowing with junk (or stuff that will "come in handy one day even if I never use it").


----------



## thetyreman

you should see my drawer nick compared to that it looks like a bomb site, but everything in it is useful  will make a tray when I get time to make it more organised, you've done a great job on the bench


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## MikeG.

NickM":2z3ogj1d said:


> ......View attachment 7



You could make a half-length sliding tray to sit on top of the liner/ divider arrangement, to keep smaller stuff in. It can then slide backwards and forwards to allow access underneath, and lift out to get to bigger items.


----------



## NickM

MikeG.":3oq8zpb8 said:


> NickM":3oq8zpb8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> You could make a half-length sliding tray to sit on top of the liner/ divider arrangement, to keep smaller stuff in. It can then slide backwards and forwards to allow access underneath, and lift out to get to bigger items.
Click to expand...


That's a good thought. Thanks


----------



## Blackswanwood

Side table made to order for one of my daughters. Poplar painted with Farrow & Ball Railings (not my choice and a brand of paint I always find "sticky" to apply). It's a design by Richard Maguire but I just made it rather than following the videos.






Oak top - it was my best edge joint yet (thanks to reading an old post on here from a member known as Custard!) but I didn't like the change in grain so added a couple of walnut lines to disguise it. The top is symmetrical - picture taken on an angle.






I had a piece of veneered plywood hanging around and used it for the drawer bottom - complete overkill!


----------



## Trevanion

That's lovely work, BSW. If I remember correctly the F&B own paint is clay-based and eye-wateringly expensive? I've only ever used the F&B colour palette as it's very popular at the moment and had it mixed by other companies.


----------



## MikeG.

Very nice, BSW. =D> =D>


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## Nelsun

Love that Blackswanwood. Very different (by several leagues) from my latest offering, a desk for my youngest boy.

I've been wanting to try a brushed finish and he's getting to an age where he's needing a desk so here we are. Made from sleepers so, as they'll do a merry dance, it's a basic rustic job which fits nicely with brushing.

I dyed the top to save it being one massive lump of brown... or the same brown anyway. Believe it or not, the top and legs were at one point all flat, square and silky smooth. The apparent joins in the top were added after glueing it up.

Thanks and credit for the offset housing joints in the legs goes to MikeG. A lovely touch I'd never have thought of and will use again.


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## Blackswanwood

Thanks Nelsun. That looks great and perfect for a young boy.


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## DamoF

I made this quite recently. Well, it was a collaboration...


----------



## Bm101

Damo you were in on the pre planning committee at best. 
:wink: 
Once the construction team has completed works you will be contracted to maintenance. Forever. Your wage will consecutively drop per annum in perpetuity. All perks and benefits will become inadmissible or at the least fully audited and examined. Time off and sick pay will be reconsidered and having been reconsidered will in due time will be made involuntary.
All perks and off site benefits formerly tolerated by management will be thoroughly examined on pro rata basis and generally 'exclusioned'.
However.
All on site benefits will be reconsidered and offered as part of an ongoing mutual benefit package that advantages all concerned parties.

What in essence is given away will be taken back a thousand fold. That's just in laughter. Nevermind the rest.

Congratulations Damo. 

Today I made a sword in record time from oak. Oak.... because no one gave me any notice it was for a school shizzle tomorrow. _Tomorrow_. 

Book day. My lad is going as summat or other to do with Percy Jackson and the retelling of the Greek gods?
All heroes need a sword...
Two hours on a Sunday and the little pipper had the Jacob's to ask for a pommel and cross guard.
After explaining design briefs and compound angles he agreed to stfu.
Factor in the Inca playing games and having to reset the whole saw ... Did alright in the end. Only post for laffs.


----------



## Bm101

I used to go to the pub on Sundays.


----------



## Noho12C

Bm101":1h5fxmjk said:


> After explaining design briefs and compound angles he agreed to stfu.
> ]



 

Sent from my VKY-L09 using Tapatalk


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## woodbloke66

Couple of things done recently, first up a...






...fairly chunky old mug tree made as a last minute request from No.1 son in Londres. Oak with American Cherry pegs and to give an idea of scale that base is a full 45mm thick.

Second up a picture; an original antique woodblock print of Nagoya Castle, Japan:
















Framed in English Walnut with Bog Oak splines, professionally cut double 'Hayseed' mount with 'clarity' non-reflective glass - Rob


----------



## DamoF

Bm101":3tb9rfyr said:


> Damo you were in on the pre planning committee at best.
> :wink:
> Once the construction team has completed works you will be contracted to maintenance. Forever. Your wage will consecutively drop per annum in perpetuity. All perks and benefits will become inadmissible or at the least fully audited and examined. Time off and sick pay will be reconsidered and having been reconsidered will in due time will be made involuntary.
> All perks and off site benefits formerly tolerated by management will be thoroughly examined on pro rata basis and generally 'exclusioned'.
> However.
> All on site benefits will be reconsidered and offered as part of an ongoing mutual benefit package that advantages all concerned parties.
> 
> What in essence is given away will be taken back a thousand fold. That's just in laughter. Nevermind the rest.
> 
> Congratulations Damo.
> 
> Today I made a sword in record time from oak. Oak.... because no one gave me any notice it was for a school shizzle tomorrow. _Tomorrow_.
> 
> Book day. My lad is going as summat or other to do with Percy Jackson and the retelling of the Greek gods?
> All heroes need a sword...
> Two hours on a Sunday and the little pipper had the Jacob's to ask for a pommel and cross guard.
> After explaining design briefs and compound angles he agreed to stfu.
> Factor in the Inca playing games and having to reset the whole saw ... Did alright in the end. Only post for laffs.



Ahahaha haha!!!


----------



## Turnr77

Nice sword, bit worried about that pink "thing" next to it though!


----------



## Bm101

Turnr77":3vgvqs07 said:


> Nice sword, bit worried about that pink "thing" next to it though!


 That's. A. Skipping. Rope. 
:-s

You monster.
:-"


----------



## Noho12C

Made this week a box to store all my finishing mess (I mean equipment).
Made from Wickes white wood (was wondering at some point if it was really wood, this things doesn't plane well at all).
But the main point of it was to try out polishing milk paint. So it's finished with pitch black over barn red, and rubbed afterwards.









Sent from my VKY-L09 using Tapatalk


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## toolsntat

post1333188.html#p1333188

Updated post now its been upholstered ....


----------



## rafezetter

Trevanion":2x2bo8v6 said:


> MikeG.":2x2bo8v6 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I once lost 5% in a University essay for spelling "rooves" rather than "roofs". I copied the page in the dictionary confirming rooves was fine, but the lecturer still didn't like it and I never got my marks back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's trying to get a high standard of work from your pupils and there's being a complete n*bhead.
> 
> I think you may have had the latter Mike.
Click to expand...


Just catching up on this thread and..... that's Kn*bhead ta very much 
(wait for it....)

I totally echo the thoughts about some people being intimidated about what they post on this thread compared to some of the others, but there are those who will still aspire (like me) to a standard of work you may feel is inferior to others.

So please do share - even the critique can be helpful.


----------



## MikeG.

toolsntat":1crnlnek said:


> ........Updated post now its been upholstered ....



Not sure how I missed this. Very nice........and cunning mitre avoidance noted and admired. =D>


----------



## D_W

two guitars (the one on the right has a purchased neck - not something I would normally do, but it makes it legal to sell because it's licensed. Not sure if I'll sell it). 

The one on the left is made mostly by hand (like no electricity by hand) and is scratch made from stock (metal hardware is purchased)






They're both finished french polish instead of spraying. The funky uneven look on the neck of the rosewood guitar is just the flash reflecting off of a surface that was steel wooled with #0000 steel wool to make the finish have less friction under hand and finger tip.


----------



## Orraloon

Very nice. I dabble a bit with instruments myself.
The bit about being legal to sell, is that the law over there?
Regards
John


----------



## MusicMan

It depends on the CITES status of the wood, which depends on the rarity/endangerment. Some may not be exported, some may be exported only in machined form (sometimes evaded by machining a single groove), some may be used but not sold. For example, none of the Dalbergia species (rosewood, cocobolo etc) may be exported as lumber save for wood grown in a sustainable way for a particular purpose (e.g. grenadilla/blackwood for musical instruments). Countries vary on the zeal with which they pursue this matter.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

MusicMan":14l3vg2u said:


> It depends on the CITES status of the wood, which depends on the rarity/endangerment. Some may not be exported, some may be exported only in machined form (sometimes evaded by machining a single groove), some may be used but not sold. For example, none of the Dalbergia species (rosewood, cocobolo etc) may be exported as lumber save for wood grown in a sustainable way for a particular purpose (e.g. grenadilla/blackwood for musical instruments). Countries vary on the zeal with which they pursue this matter.



The BBC has a special on rosewood logging on Ghana and the Gambia, and the level of deforestation. It is all going to China to make furniture - whether they sell the furniture inside China or then export it again, I don't know. 
An article here: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-49165636 but there is also a half-hour report, if you can find it (BBC site is unpredictable for me, and I saw it today on BBC world "Focus on Africa" - it may be an old report being used as a filler.


----------



## Orraloon

As we are on a musical theme I just finished this 2 days ago. During these plague times I have more time in the shed and of course I can spend even more time playing it. 24 &1/2'' scale and open g tuned.
Keep washing those hands and stay safe
John


----------



## Racers

Nice, but difficult to see on the rug, I have some throws from IKEA that make good neutral backgrounds. 

Pete


----------



## D_W

Trainee neophyte":2kkbvkrb said:


> MusicMan":2kkbvkrb said:
> 
> 
> 
> It depends on the CITES status of the wood, which depends on the rarity/endangerment. Some may not be exported, some may be exported only in machined form (sometimes evaded by machining a single groove), some may be used but not sold. For example, none of the Dalbergia species (rosewood, cocobolo etc) may be exported as lumber save for wood grown in a sustainable way for a particular purpose (e.g. grenadilla/blackwood for musical instruments). Countries vary on the zeal with which they pursue this matter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BBC has a special on rosewood logging on Ghana and the Gambia, and the level of deforestation. It is all going to China to make furniture - whether they sell the furniture inside China or then export it again, I don't know.
> An article here: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-49165636 but there is also a half-hour report, if you can find it (BBC site is unpredictable for me, and I saw it today on BBC world "Focus on Africa" - it may be an old report being used as a filler.
Click to expand...


Exactly right about the rosewood - there was no real push for it until China got a middle class who sought rosewood furniture for status. The rosewood harvest is about 1/10th everything else and 9/10ths china furniture (not an exaggeration) and when CITES came along, China decided they'd just get it illegally instead (harvesting rosewood and mislabeling shipments as unrestricted wood, etc). 

CITES removed the rosewood restriction in august or something last year, and set an effective date of December 15, 2019 for most rosewood (Excluding brazilian - and for whatever reason, the put padauk on the restricted list instead) so that finished guitars can be shipped without paperwork. Raw lumber is still restricted. Similar to mahogany, I guess - except the waiver is for finished musical instruments.


----------



## D_W

Orraloon":1c8ttvgm said:


> Very nice. I dabble a bit with instruments myself.
> The bit about being legal to sell, is that the law over there?
> Regards
> John



Strangely enough, it's the peghead shape (where the tuners are). The courts in the united states have decided that's really the only protected part of the instrument (for trademark purposes). 

The purchased neck on the right is made by a parts company in the united states and they pay fender a fee for each neck. Once in a while, a new maker comes along and thinks they'll copy that here, and then fender smacks them. 

It's possible to pay a license fee to fender (if they agree), but I don't know how they decide and i haven't contacted them.

The fee can't be more than about $50 or so, because the purchased neck on the right was only $125 complete. Maybe's it's less for parts, I don't know. But people are so particular about that general peghead shape that it probably increases the guitar value by a lot more than the license fee.


----------



## woodbloke66

A Krenov style 'Fossil Cabinet' in Brown Oak for my daughter. Owing to current restrictions on movement, the glazing for the door and sides as well as the six shelves with ground and polished edges will have to be left for another day.





















Joints on the stand are through m/t wedged with Bog Oak. These were left around 3mm proud and
then rounded over; a time consuming, fiddly process. Handle on the door carved from Bog Oak and the door has a traditional JK spring loaded catch. Finished with a couple of coats of satin Osmo PolyX followed by a good application of wax, finally buffed with a soft cloth - Rob


----------



## AndyT

That's a quality build and no mistake.


----------



## Bm101

Bloomin' marvellous Rob.
Cheered me up.


----------



## Hornbeam

Lovely piece with lots of nice details as well
Ian


----------



## Fitzroy

Building a desk for the boys to work from during this situation. Was hoping to get it done on one weekend, but a decision to put breadboard ends on the top proved time expensive. I’d never done the before and as always it takes time to learn stuff.
















SWMBO asked if the sticky out bits [tenons] were too long. ‘Of course not I’ve double checked, do you think I’m stupid?’ Yes! And she was right.





Satisfied to have gone from sawn boards to a completed top, apart from drawboring, and all other components ready for joinery in a weekend. 

Should have a desk ready by end of next weekend. 

Fitz.


----------



## El Barto

Lil hewn and scribed brown oak hammock stand just in time for some good weather...


----------



## NickM

Partially constructed cold frames (the overhang at the front is much larger than it needs to be due to a change in design; I might fix that at some point).


----------



## NickM

And something a bit more refined - a small open box with simple dovetails. I’m still practicing but these dovetails came out pretty well.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

NickM":25kzmaw0 said:


> And something a bit more refined - a small open box with simple dovetails. I’m still practicing but these dovetails came out pretty well.
> 
> View attachment 7



Is it the camera angle, or is that a compound angle on the sides? Horribly tricky if all four sides slope - it's on my list of unachievable future projects, but I am baffled by it currently. It ought to be so easy, and yet...


----------



## NickM

Trainee neophyte":rds07q7a said:


> Is it the camera angle, or is that a compound angle on the sides? Horribly tricky if all four sides slope - it's on my list of unachievable future projects, but I am baffled by it currently. It ought to be so easy, and yet...



Camera angle! I was pleased to get the sides straight...


----------



## Cordy

Was bored yesterday; so made this


----------



## grumpycorn

Hi

I'm a long time lurker and dabbler in woodworking. Since discovering this forum a year or so ago, I've been inspired to try and push myself to increase my ability and try out new stuff thanks in particular to this thread.

Inspired by a bathroom cabinet that Mrs Grumps liked at a Bathroom place (which was £400 and made of MDF), I decided to have a go at making it myself.

It's white oak from Duffield Timber, my first experience of going and buying good quality timber for the project I have planned. The oak I've used in the past has been most offcuts of flooring etc. so it was a bit of an eye opener to see what they had on offer. 

It's pretty much all hand tools - I've got a little Axi bandsaw and a lunchbox thicknesser for dimensioning. I tend to not use too many power tools as I do most of my work of an evening when the kids are in bed. It lets me build up a decent process of planing the face and edge true of components during the week then putting them through the thicknesser on the weekend. I always give pieces a quick once over with a plane before doing any joinery if it's needed, and it gives the wood plenty of time to settle.

Construction is a dovetailed carcass with integrated hanging rail, housing joints for the shelves, M&T Face Frame glued on and then the mouldings were done using a couple of hollow & rounds I got off ebay. The door has a little Ovolo moulding (done with a moulding plane) and is jack mitred (think that's the right term) in the corners.

I had to do the door twice as the first one developed a twist. Obviously I blamed my cheap clamps, but then I was much more careful about my M&T's on the second one (still plenty of room for improvement) and it came out nicely. Only issue I had on the door is I didn't think through how I was going to retain the mirror in it without it looking like the back of a picture frame, so ended up cutting a second rebate using a router later on (you might/ will definitely be able to make out a small patch where the router went to far on a corner... it turns out I did actually have time for stop blocks given it definitely took longer to fix it).

The panel for the door (not installed yet as the mirror has been delayed due to lockdown) is ply with a homemade oak veneer on it cut from the same timber for a good match. It was right at the limit of what my bandsaw could do but having put a tuffsaw blade (another forum recommendation) on it, it coped really well with a slow cut.

I didn't really want to paint it, but it was the look that Mrs Grump was after. I do regret using milk paint though. I found it quite fussy to work with and to get smooth - to be fair I think it isn't designed to do what I wanted it to. The finish looks a bit 'upcycled' to me, but live and learn. I've got my eye on a HVLP now having seen some threads on the forum. Painted furniture is definitely 'the look' in our house so I might as well take the plunge.

This is the first thing I've done that has been granted a 'pride of place' where people will see it every day and has earned me some other commissions around the home, so I'm taking that as a good sign. I'm also quite pleased that it hasn't fallen off the wall yet, given it's above a limestone counter and the sink... drilling the porcelain tiles for the screws was a bit of an adventure in itself and probably the most nervous I've been in a while, I think I quadruple checked that I'd marked the wall up right.

So, thank you fellow forumites for inspiring me to stretch myself, to try new techniques and trying to make existing ones better (these were the best dovetails I've done - honest guv!), and for the wealth of information that everyone shares.

All the best
Grumpycorn


----------



## thetyreman

I don't normally like painted oak but it looks nice seeing the natural wood on the inside, good contrast.


----------



## grumpycorn

Thanks Tyreman - I was actually tempted to leave the door unpainted on the outside as well for the contrast, but that wasn't the look we were going for apparently!


----------



## AndyT

That looks great! Proper woodworking.
Good to know that the forum can quietly inspire and help people - and I look forward to seeing more of what you make.


----------



## grumpycorn

Thanks Andy... it does make a real difference, as someone who has just learnt as I’ve been going along, to see what others are doing and get different perspectives. I’ll try and remember to take photos as I go along next time!


----------



## Orraloon

A nice cabinet. I think you have just learned one of woodwork's main lessons. Starting with good materials makes a big difference. 
The painted look is actually not that bad compared to some of the trendy looks of the past. My one and only bathroom cabinet build was back in the 70tes when the look was dyed wood with clear finish over it so bright blue woodgrain. We did think it was rather cool at the time. So glad it was never photographed. Just wondering how long it lasted after we sold that house.
Regards
John


----------



## transatlantic

Pepper mill made from Beech. Its a bit boring I know, but it took me a while to bore out the center so I played it safe.





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## grumpycorn

Orraloon":31ioekey said:


> . We did think it was rather cool at the time. So glad it was never photographed.



Hah - I just hope that my joints are good enough that it lasts long enough for painted to go out of fashion again... I wouldn’t be surprised if someone is scraping all that paint off in thirty years time and reaching for the wood dye...


----------



## MusicMan

transatlantic":4ki2w43f said:


> Pepper mill made from Beech. Its a bit boring I know, but it took me a while to bore out the center so I played it safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk


No I think it looks great. What mechanism did you use?


----------



## transatlantic

MusicMan":1jt2mhfp said:


> No I think it looks great. What mechanism did you use?



The crush grind one

https://www.turners-retreat.co.uk/crush ... isms/p1422



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## thetyreman

made myself a kumiko style drinks mat out of real ebony offcuts, might make a few more, finished with chestnut foodsafe oil, half lap joinery.



Ebony Kumiko Drinks Mat by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr



Ebony Kumiko Drinks Mat with mug by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## Buckeye

Made a bed for my middle boy. Fed up repairing some cheap junk.

Beech and sapele for the slats. I have about £100 in the beech, the sapele I had as left overs and the slats. Glue, screws, finish, bed connectors etc maybe another £30 so happy enough and should last.


----------



## rafezetter

transatlantic":7zw4ec8j said:


> Pepper mill made from Beech. Its a bit boring I know, but it took me a while to bore out the center so I played it safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk



hmmm suspicious, looks like a well concealed bludgeon to me - lest some nefarious types come foraging for toilet paper at your house.


----------



## transatlantic

rafezetter":2vza6gcr said:


> hmmm suspicious, looks like a well concealed bludgeon to me - lest some nefarious types come foraging for toilet paper at your house.



:lol: :lol:


----------



## MarkDennehy

Lockdown in Ireland allows you to travel up to 2km from home for exercise, which means I can get up to a park near here called Fernhill:






Obviously we go there  They do the Fae folk doors-in-the-trees thing for the kids, but there's an absence of toadstools by those doors, and before the lockdown they had the tree surgeon in and haven't removed the logs yet, so.... I nicked one. 






(excuse the mess, it's been a bit busy here the last few days)

Hacked off a chunk, put it on the lathe, turned a toadstool.











We'll drop back up to Fernhill when I've done a few more and stash them by the doors for the other kids to find. Hopefully that'll keep me from being arrested for looting during a pandemic


----------



## MarkDennehy

Oh, and I also got bored and did a shop tour. I was getting tired of all these lads with their huge workshops and six figures' worth of kit that take an hour to go over all their stuff while I get more and more envious, so I did mine in 1 minute 48 seconds  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEmIxWZIhA

Craft level : low.
Funny level : moderate.


----------



## Fitzroy

MarkDennehy":3mrh3jv0 said:


> Oh, and I also got bored and did a shop tour. I was getting tired of all these lads with their huge workshops and six figures' worth of kit that take an hour to go over all their stuff while I get more and more envious, so I did mine in 1 minute 48 seconds
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEmIxWZIhA
> 
> Craft level : low.
> Funny level : moderate.



Absolutely brilliant, beware the sarlacc pit. An amazing amount crammed in there, including dust extraction, you’ve guilted me into sorting mine out I keep complaining I don’t have space! However my mask mark is nearly permanent and obviously space is not an issue. 

F.


----------



## woodbloke66

Last June I helped to take down a walnut tree growing in the garden of one of my wife's friends. I had one decent board out of the main butt although I said that I would make the lady in question a small box from some oddments of limb wood.



























Pretty straight forward construction; through dovetails on the corners of the box and tray, domino'd lid. The base for each made from ply veneered with more bandsaw oddments. The handle was a bit of 'shot in the dark' as I had a bit of Pink Ivory loafing about and decided to laminate it with some walnut veneer. Seems to work. Finished with four coats of Peacock Oil, Liberon Sanding Sealer and wax over the top, finally polished with a soft cloth - Rob


----------



## Lons

Nice box Rob, did you laser the inscription?


----------



## woodbloke66

Lons":1ssovzdn said:


> Nice box Rob, did you laser the inscription?


Ta; nope, just a bit of pyrography using a pen from the 'old firm'. Walnut seems to take quite well to this sort of labelling; some woods don't such as laburnum - Rob


----------



## Lons

Very neat work using a pyro pen =D>


----------



## Bm101

MarkDennehy":kuw0s5gg said:


> Oh, and I also got bored and did a shop tour. I was getting tired of all these lads with their huge workshops and six figures' worth of kit that take an hour to go over all their stuff while I get more and more envious, so I did mine in 1 minute 48 seconds
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEmIxWZIhA
> 
> Craft level : low.
> Funny level : moderate.


Thank you. Never disappointed.
Is it just me that secretly rates ukw members not just on 'woodworking skills'but 'most likely to enjoy a pint with'?


----------



## pulleyt

The latest export from the lockdown shed is a 'coaster screen' with grateful thanks to Desmond King for his excellent books on Shoji and Kumiko design, his detailed tutorials on YouTube and the idea from his website.

in the process of completing this project I've accumulated quite a variety of jigs and aids which took about four times as long to make and refine than it took to make the actual coaster screen itself. They will earn their keep over the coming months  











The kumiko strips are cut from a board of lime and darker wood is salvaged from a piece of furniture that was being thrown out (not sure what it is but would guess it's meranti). The 'feet' are fashioned from a maple off cut. 
As the coasters will inevitably have liquids spilled over them I finished them with cutting board oil to give a little protection.


----------



## xy mosian

MarkDennehy.
Brilliant, both Idea and execution. Good on you.
xy


----------



## Trainee neophyte

It has been inferred that all I do is crazy stuff with chainsaws. I resent that, but it may be true. 

In order to damage my reputation even more, here is my current chainsaw madness: 




It's a cradle for the chainsaw, which runs on a track (like an inverted t-track): 




The point is to mill logs into planks/boards - call it what you will. I tried freehand, and that is serious effort, and rubbish results. I tried making an "Alaskan mill" arrangement, and that is also hard work, and still not good results. This system is virtually no effort at all,and seems to do very well. I'm getting flat, square boards about 35mm thick, so all in a good days work. Completely made from scrap I had lying around, there are no frills, and it could be much better, but for now it is working well.

First cut straight through the middle, at whatever point it happens to be. 




Then put the flat newly cut side down to keep everything square, and cut again. Raise the work up on blocks, for the next cut, and the third. 






Here's the result still covered in sawdust:




The spacers I use are 45mm thick, but with the chainsaw kerf being huge each plank is about 35mm, and the surface is quite uneven from the saw but not as bad as I was expecting.

And the big reveal (also known as a bucket of water): 




And a close-up to show the surface: 




Here are some I made earlier: 




These have been sealed at the ends, firstly with a latex paint, but when I ran out of that with wood glue, because it's all I have. It's an expensive waterproof D3 wood glue, so that must help, surely...

So far I have only cut up olive wood - I also have a fair amount of walnut logs which are longer, wider, and much straighter than the olive wood, but I have more olive wood so I am practicing with that first. If anyone has any pointers as to how to do this properly I am very open to suggestions, but I am happy with the results so far.


----------



## MikeG.

Well, I have to say it's been a pleasure knowing you, TN......and don't worry about all your stuff. I'll find most of it a good home. Not the sheep of course, but everything else. Well, nearly everything else. Not the chainsaw, obviously. That'll be a bit gory.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

MikeG.":34uc5ifw said:


> Well, I have to say it's been a pleasure knowing you, TN......and don't worry about all your stuff. I'll find most of it a good home. Not the sheep of course, but everything else. Well, nearly everything else. Not the chainsaw, obviously. That'll be a bit gory.



I didn't mention that everything happens at the other end of a long rope. I'm a good 4' away from the excitement.

I have considered what happens if the chainsaw gets loose at full chat: my plan is to wait until the fuel runs out, but visions of some kind of Beny Hill chase scene are definitely an option.


----------



## MarkDennehy

The woodturning course I was taking had to be cancelled because of Covid19 before we got to the bowl turning part of the course, so I've taken my time getting to this stage, but there it is, my first bowl.

Not sure about the wood, it was an unmarked miniature blank from one of homeofwood's variety packs (sycamore maybe?), finished in poppy seed oil to keep it light and a single coat of blonde shellac. 

It's only a tiny thing, about 3" across and 2" deep, the walls are too thick to be elegant and too uneven to be thick by design, I didn't get rid of the very bottom of the faceplate screwholes from the rim, and you can prise it from my cold dead hands 'cos I love it


----------



## Orraloon

Trainee neophyte":291xkmvc said:


> It has been inferred that all I do is crazy stuff with chainsaws. I resent that, but it may be true.
> 
> In order to damage my reputation even more, here is my current chainsaw madness:
> 
> It's a cradle for the chainsaw, which runs on a track (like an inverted t-track):
> 
> The point is to mill logs into planks/boards - call it what you will. I tried freehand, and that is serious effort, and rubbish results. I tried making an "Alaskan mill" arrangement, and that is also hard work, and still not good results. This system is virtually no effort at all,and seems to do very well. I'm getting flat, square boards about 35mm thick, so all in a good days work. Completely made from scrap I had lying around, there are no frills, and it could be much better, but for now it is working well.
> 
> First cut straight through the middle, at whatever point it happens to be.
> 
> Then put the flat newly cut side down to keep everything square, and cut again. Raise the work up on blocks, for the next cut, and the third.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the result still covered in sawdust:
> 
> The spacers I use are 45mm thick, but with the chainsaw kerf being huge each plank is about 35mm, and the surface is quite uneven from the saw but not as bad as I was expecting.
> 
> And the big reveal (also known as a bucket of water):
> 
> And a close-up to show the surface:
> 
> Here are some I made earlier:
> 
> These have been sealed at the ends, firstly with a latex paint, but when I ran out of that with wood glue, because it's all I have. It's an expensive waterproof D3 wood glue, so that must help, surely...
> 
> So far I have only cut up olive wood - I also have a fair amount of walnut logs which are longer, wider, and much straighter than the olive wood, but I have more olive wood so I am practicing with that first. If anyone has any pointers as to how to do this properly I am very open to suggestions, but I am happy with the results so far.


Well the pics of all that nice wood shows it works. Just be careful.
Regards
John


----------



## Steliz

A pair of sofa end tables.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Got an 18g brad nailer the other day (to go with the cutest little 6L draper air compressor which is the biggest one that'll fit in the shed) and knocked up a *very* quick-n-dirty planter out of offcuts - there'll be no visits to the garden center for a while since we're in lockdown until next month over here, so we're making do 
















Granted, not fine furniture but it beats what we were using till now


----------



## Chris152

Love the tetra packs and pringle stack! Oh, and the woodwork's not bad, too...


----------



## MikeG.

Very imaginative, Steliz.


----------



## Droogs

I'm not sure that's how you grow your own cows mark


----------



## transatlantic

Grooving plane.











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## MikeG.

How does that work? Does it have a fence?


----------



## transatlantic

MikeG.":2vwzwwzz said:


> How does that work? Does it have a fence?


Nah, you have to use a fence along your workpiece. Got the idea from the following video : https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AWciGGqoWSU

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk


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## BigMonka

MarkDennehy":267t2ltn said:


> Got an 18g brad nailer the other day (to go with the cutest little 6L draper air compressor which is the biggest one that'll fit in the shed) and knocked up a *very* quick-n-dirty planter out of offcuts - there'll be no visits to the garden center for a while since we're in lockdown until next month over here, so we're making do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granted, not fine furniture but it beats what we were using till now


Mark thats a nice planter. For those side panels have you thought about having them the other way up (I.e. tongue at the top) as the way you got it at the moment any water will sit in the groove and rot it quicker than it needed to?


----------



## MarkDennehy

It probably will rot it to be honest, I was only planning on these lasting six months at most. I think the plywood ends will go before the sides. But I do like having the groove on top, I'm hoping it gives me somewhere to put slug pellets and salt to keep the little gits off my basil


----------



## twodoctors

My attempt at making an end grain chopping board.










More difficult than I thought some of my cuts are just a fraction out of square, which are exaggerated upon gluing up. Took a few pass on the planer to make the blocks a bit more square.

Also my "scrap" hardwood are all only about 18mm thick at most. Would have been nice if they were 40mm+ thick so they can be squared. 

The bigger one is a mix of cherry, walnut, tulipwood, and sapele. The smaller one is a mix of cherry, ash, and sapele. Finished in food grade mineral oil. Need a second coat when the first one is set.

Now I understand why they are so expensive in the shops. So much wood, so much work! :-D

Adrian


----------



## MarkDennehy

Second ever bowl. 
Didn't turn out too badly, given that I was using the scraper upside down inside the bowl for a good 30 seconds before realising that it wasn't working right.... /facepalm
















Sycamore, with poppyseed oil, a coat of lemon shellac and a quick beeswax polish over the top.

(yes that's the faceplate screwhole in the rim. Not enough room on the blank to fully erase those  Next time, between centers to create the tenon...)


----------



## Rich C

In the spirit of making do with what's around during the lockdown, I made a side bench for the kitchen. We had intended to get a new kitchen in but who knows when that will happen so I threw this together as a stop gap. Not the finest piece, but serviceable.
It's some pine I had lying around and an offcut of mfc for the top. The oddly low cross bearers at the bottom are for easier access for storage underneath. They do look a bit weird to my eye though.


----------



## Nelsun

Can you tell what it is yet? As is obvious to only me, myself & I, the handle has a tongue and groove for added strength but is concealed so externally it looks like it's just gone straight in. I told the better half all about it. She was* impressed!




*my pants are, indeed, on fire.


----------



## Trevanion

[youtube]sKiLfH3DVGc[/youtube]


----------



## Bm101

Pizza paddle? Cheese bat?


----------



## Nelsun

Socially distant compliant spanker, actually. Or made to hold 4 slices of bread at one time. Not sure. Or both... just not concurrently!


----------



## MikeG.

It's for patting butter, I reckon. One of a pair.


----------



## Bm101

Ahhh. Gotcha. Nice... I have a couple of them by the doors in my house front and rear. Not as nicely made lol. Less _made_. More _dried hardwood branches of the right length and weight that are easily disposable in the woods behind my house or the many rivers round here if you can't pick a more worthy career choice than robbery that the kids possibly picked up last week on a nature walk your honour after all I wasn't out at night burgalarising someone else's property and never have so it's a bit vague legally isn't it._ 
Like your style.


----------



## Nelsun

MikeG.":17tiimx9 said:


> It's for patting butter, I reckon. One of a pair.


" patting butter" fnar. You get one each? Asking for a friend.


----------



## Chris152

Three horizons, 62 x 37 cm, mixed media: Epson UtraChrome K3 on Innova FibaPrint White Matte; pencil, ink and gouache; sweet chestnut and steamed beech.


----------



## owen

What is it?


----------



## Chris152

a tin opener


----------



## owen

I don't get it.


----------



## Chris152

That's fair enough, Owen. There's not a lot to get tbh - it's a combination of three ways I've been working in recent years - photography, which I used to do a lot; drawing, which I've always sort of done; and wooden sculpture which I only started thinking about a couple of years ago when I started working with wood.
It's three views of the sea. The photo image is done with about 1 second exposure using neutral density filter, so you get the blurring of the waves over the second. The drawing's done with my eyes closed, from memory - sometimes it creates good shapes, sometimes it doesn't. And the wooden horizon's something I've been playing with mainly because I like wood and i find the simple forms pleasing. 
The three are different, I'm quite happy with the contrasts between technologies in the view. 
The main reason I did it is because i can't get to the workshop, so I'm sat at home fiddling with what I've got around at home. But also, I've increasingly found myself getting unhappy with the round things I'm making on the lathe. Just one of those things, i suppose. 
So there isn't a lot to get, it's just what it is. I quite like it and plan on doing more, maybe even beyond the end of the lockdown!
C

ps On a personal note, I've realised since lockdown how much i depend on the sea for my sense of wellbeing. We need to drive to get there, so can't. and I'm missing it.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Well *I* liked it. It's a nice contrast to the normal picture frame look. Wish the horizontal element was a fraction higher, it seems like it shouldn't clip the rocks, but honestly, that's the sort of thing you'd expect to see hanging on a public wall somewhere.


----------



## MikeG.

MarkDennehy":2m0sr44q said:


> Well *I* liked it.......



So do I. I don't think the block of wood contributes anything, but that aside, I think it's great.


----------



## D_W

A pencil...

..i've made a bunch of pencils, but have been chasing solving problems to try to make them good. once you learn how to make them, some of them bow with humidity changes, so I've been experimenting with soaking the wood in mineral spirits and paraffin wax to stabilize them. 

(and see if there's a point that the two halves of the barrel won't hold). 

I made these by making a little specialty tool that scrapes the lead grove, gluing the two halves together (from small boards of incense cedar) and then cutting the 6 facets on the pencil with a hand plane. 

https://i.imgur.com/Xf25Bu2.jpg


----------



## Droogs

re the pic, shelf makes me think of a jetty


----------



## Chris152

Thanks for the comments Mark and Mike - tho you have now both created doubts... 
You're absolutely right about the horizontal clipping the rocks, Mark, I'd not seen that as a problem and now it bothers me. I've got lots more in my folders of just sea, sky and horizon so I'll try to work on those next. 
The block to the left is one of those things that could or couldn't be there, but once the question's been asked it starts to look out of place. I guess you get the same with a piece of architecture Mike - once you have an essential structure, how far can you take design to allow for aesthetic concerns without over-burdening it. Just guessing, no idea. 
One thing I miss about giving up the day job is I don't get much in the way of questions about what I'm doing. The dog seems to pretty much like whatever I do, but thinks he has better ideas of what we could be doing with wooden sticks. 
Thanks.

DW - I've no idea how you make pencils but at the last wood fair we organised one of the people had a stall for kids to make their own pencils. It was incredibly popular and I couldn't really get close enough to see what they were up to, but I did see lots of whacking bits of wood through a hole with mallets and happy kids walking away with the pencils they'd just made. Which looked rather less refined than yours in that picture.


----------



## owen

Chris152":1f0dvon0 said:


> That's fair enough, Owen. There's not a lot to get tbh - it's a combination of three ways I've been working in recent years - photography, which I used to do a lot; drawing, which I've always sort of done; and wooden sculpture which I only started thinking about a couple of years ago when I started working with wood.
> It's three views of the sea. The photo image is done with about 1 second exposure using neutral density filter, so you get the blurring of the waves over the second. The drawing's done with my eyes closed, from memory - sometimes it creates good shapes, sometimes it doesn't. And the wooden horizon's something I've been playing with mainly because I like wood and i find the simple forms pleasing.
> The three are different, I'm quite happy with the contrasts between technologies in the view.
> The main reason I did it is because i can't get to the workshop, so I'm sat at home fiddling with what I've got around at home. But also, I've increasingly found myself getting unhappy with the round things I'm making on the lathe. Just one of those things, i suppose.
> So there isn't a lot to get, it's just what it is. I quite like it and plan on doing more, maybe even beyond the end of the lockdown!
> C
> 
> ps On a personal note, I've realised since lockdown how much i depend on the sea for my sense of wellbeing. We need to drive to get there, so can't. and I'm missing it.



Thanks for explaining it, it makes more sense now. I suppose what ever floats your boat  .


----------



## Bm101

It's a good job we all have different boats to float eh?


----------



## Rob Platt

Made a while back but for some still unknown reason got some grain lifting out a while back took the top coating off and scraped the top down. Ready for another ten coats of linseed oil and turps. Made from Croatian oak all M and T joints. no pins screws or nails


----------



## bourbon

Laid off for what is the fourth week now. I've been in my workshop every day for at least 5 hours a day. Making mostly medieval 5 plank boxes, But I did liven it up a bit


----------



## MarkDennehy

Little vase (drilled out with the jacobson-chuck-in-the-tailstock approach rather than being hollowed out on account of me having no hollowing tools or knowing how to use them  ). Spalted sycamore with tung oil, lemon shellac and beeswax. Loads of room to improve, but this is the first vase I've ever turned.


----------



## MikeG.

bourbon":30zwmrap said:


> Laid off for what is the fourth week now. I've been in my workshop every day for at least 5 hours a day. Making mostly medieval 5 plank boxes, But I did liven it up a bit



Was the base too small originally?


----------



## morturn

I made an Apothecary Cabinet. It was a useful way of clearing out all of the accumulating shortish cuts from the workshop


----------



## bourbon

MikeG.":111i637l said:


> bourbon":111i637l said:
> 
> 
> 
> Laid off for what is the fourth week now. I've been in my workshop every day for at least 5 hours a day. Making mostly medieval 5 plank boxes, But I did liven it up a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was the base too small originally?
Click to expand...

LOL. you guessed it! I evoked 'Pete's law'. My best mate is a restoration carpenter. He always said. 'If yo make a @@@@ up, make a feature of it. I had already used my essential journey up for the day, (I go to the woodyard after going food shopping) and had limited wood of the right size. I think it adds to it myself. and is plenty strong enough


----------



## Distinterior

Under the current circumstances, this isn't the cheeriest of objects to make but one of my best freinds passed away not too long ago and his wife asked me if i would make a storage box for her to keep his Urn in. He was Best Man at my wedding in March 2019 and I'd promised to make him something from the Bog Oak I got from MikeG as a thank you......At the time, I never imagined this would be what I would be making.....!

It's made from Bog Oak and Spalted Beech with book matched panels & Dominoed together and finished in Microcrystalline Wax.
It's about 370mm high x 250mm square.

The Spalted Beech was cut from a felled log that he & I dragged through the woods whilst on holiday in Cornwall about 6 years ago. I cut the log into planks a few years ago and it's been in stick ever since.


----------



## MikeG.

Stunning. =D>


----------



## AndyT

Wow!
Fantastic work.


----------



## Bm101

That's a box of rare beauty and value in so many ways. Truly stunning.


----------



## Distinterior

Thanks for all the kind comments gents. It has been a real labour of love.
His wife has yet to see it so I hope she will be happy with it.

Tim.

PS. I forgot to say,... the letter etching was done by another mate of mine with a Laser Etching machine.
The slightly burned effect matched pretty well with the spalting I thought.
It was her nickname for him.


----------



## Lons

That's absolutely stunning Tim and a great tribute to your friend.

I made boxes to contain the ashes for burial for both of my parents, just plain oak and I found it very difficult emotionally.

Bob


----------



## AndyT

I thought at first that it was some sort of Japanese lamp with ink drawings on paper panels. 
Very special to have had such a marvellous piece of wood put by, which already had the personal connection. 
No doubt a difficult project emotionally but the exact right use for those timbers.


----------



## Distinterior

AndyT":1bosugbn said:


> I thought at first that it was some sort of Japanese lamp with ink drawings on paper panels.
> Very special to have had such a marvellous piece of wood put by, which already had the personal connection.
> No doubt a difficult project emotionally but the exact right use for those timbers.



Thanks Andy & Lons,

Emotionally, it has been the hardest project I've ever done! I have found myself talking to him on the odd occasion over the period of time I've been making it. 

Funnily enough, when I showed the pictures to yet another mate of ours, he also thought it had an oriental look to it. Those Spalted Beech panels were a real challenge, as we know how tricky it can be to retain any strength in Spalted wood. The more spalting, the weaker the wood. I was lucky that the more decorative panels retained the strength after machining and glueing up.

The larger panels are all floating in a rebate and the lid panel is one piece and glued and Dominoed. The moisture content of all the wood used was as perfect as I could have hoped for.

My pictures are not the best, as the colour of the Spalted side panels are actually a bit warmer in colour than they look in my photos. In reality, they are more like the colours shown on the lid.


----------



## Turnr77

So being locked down at home thought I'd build a new house,..........
For the cat.
She loves the sun but when she gets too hot she likes to sit in the shade for a bit, built this some years ago now looking the worse for wear, it used to be thatched with reed screening


----------



## MikeG.

For a cat?!

You've not thought this through fully, have you. Where's the leg-hold trap, or the rotating knives, or at least the trapdoor into the dog kennel? :lol: :lol:


----------



## Phil Pascoe

The cat won't go in it anyway. It's a cat.


----------



## owen

Nice job! Bet the cat sits on top of it though 8) :lol:


----------



## lurker

Every cat owning MP will be putting one of those on their expenses.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Another small bowl (3" sycamore blank). I'm trying to do a few bits of turning a week to build up some time on the lathe, I figure the more I do the less likely it is that I'll put a bowl gouge through my own face...










Tung oil and button shellac and a briwax top coat for finishing.

I'm really liking the S-shaped tool rest.


----------



## thetyreman

made an ipad pro stand for my dad out of redwood pine, my first project using spray lacquer, it was sprayed outside on sawhorses.


----------



## Bm101

That's as tidy as your usual work Ben. Did you have a play about before to decide on the dimensions you needed? No criticism, just wondered if you needed a board of that size to stabilise the device. Just thinking out loud. 
I am summat of an hengineer myself as I say although it's all self imagined I'm proud to boast. No proper colleges were needed here let me tell you. Hence when Billnextdoor was ruminating that his sky box had packed up the other night when the neighbours were summoning the Old Gods by clapping the NHS and possibly wassailing the apple trees for good measure. 'Ah' I said wisely.
Tapping my nose. Might be able to sort that. I might have winked.
Tbh. When I got round to it today I wasn't sure what size sky boxes are. Or in fact how they make your telly work. So I made 3 to cover the basics. Unfortunately I have run out of white paint so no clouds were able to be painted. But by and large I think Billnextdoor will be over the moon. One of them is bound to work. Wouldn't you say? Science! You can't knock it.


----------



## thetyreman

@bm101 thanks  , yes I worked out it needed that much wood for the weight to be counterbalanced properly, my dad who it's made for also wanted that much surface area so he can easily write and make notes with i-pad facing t'other way. like this..


----------



## Bm101

Like your style. :wink:


----------



## Doris

Octopus Coat Rack. Made from walnut worktop offcuts I had knocking about the workshop.









Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Bm101

Doris!
 
Love it as always!


----------



## MarkDennehy

More practice. Turned out nice, got the walls fairly thin. 3" sycamore blank to jellybean dish for Calum. Poppyseed oil and blonde shellac finish.


----------



## Farm Labourer

Made of ash and I also made the hinges, pivots and ratchets.


----------



## maznaz

My lockdown project. The first thing I've built that's at all straight and square. I copied shamelessly from pictures on the internet and I'm very happy with how it turned out. I hope to make many things on it for many years!


----------



## garethharvey

Playing around with the CNC


----------



## cgarry

This is a small shoe rack/seat made to fit in a small space next to my friend's front door. It is made from a bunch of spare laminate flooring plus a little real oak for edging.

The design includes clearance for the skirting board that will run behind it and to the left of it. Primarily made with a track saw and a Domino machine.

Once the lockdown is suitably relaxed it can make its way to its final destination and we will see how accurately I measured the available space. 
















Cheers,
Chris


----------



## xy mosian

The empty outer pot has been taunting me for some months/years. All the copper is from pumbing pipe offcuts.
xy


----------



## AndyT

That's impressive! Any more pictures? How many pieces and how big? Did you solder them together then beat it out? I'm intrigued and impressed.


----------



## rafezetter

cgarry":39styble said:


> This is a small shoe rack/seat made to fit in a small space next to my friend's front door. It is made from a bunch of spare laminate flooring plus a little real oak for edging.
> 
> The design includes clearance for the skirting board that will run behind it and to the left of it. Primarily made with a track saw and a Domino machine.
> 
> Once the lockdown is suitably relaxed it can make its way to its final destination and we will see how accurately I measured the available space.
> 
> 
> 
> It's very nice and obviously well made, but I wonder at the design choice to carry over the left side of the top, but not the right, even if the right side is flush to the wall it just looks "not quite right" to my eyes.
> 
> To me the left side has now become a "feature" that stands out.
> 
> Just my thoughts on the visuals - and I doubt I could make this myself yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> Chris


----------



## xy mosian

AndyT":1ey26mey said:


> That's impressive! Any more pictures? How many pieces and how big? Did you solder them together then beat it out? I'm intrigued and impressed.


Thank you Andy, My reply is rather wordy so I posted here:- 
post1351813.html#p1351813


----------



## cgarry

rafezetter,

Thanks for your comments. Design might be too strong a term for the activity that took place in this instance... The different look of the 2 ends definitely distract from each other while it is standing in the open. I am hopeful it will not be so bad one it is in situ as the left side will be largely hidden in a corner while the right side will be visible.

The right hand side has a waterfall table style end, mainly because I have wanted to make something that incorporates one for a while. The left hand side was required to have whatever did the supporting offset from the edge in order to allow space for the skirting board on that side without leaving a small gap between the seat and the wall for things, keys probably, to fall down. I did think legs, like most waterfall tables are built with, would look better on the left hand side but backed away from that approach because I thought the two shelves would look odd ending at legs. With hindsight I do regret that decision but on the other hand I have actually completed a project for the first time in ages!

This is an image of the space that it will hopefully fit into and as I said I am hopeful the left hand side will not stand out once it is in its final position:






Cheers,
Chris


----------



## MarkDennehy

Been doing some more thin-wall practice on small simple 3" bowls (bowls? Egg-cups more like. We use them for jellybeans for Calum). Also bought a cheap photobox off aliexpress a while ago that finally arrived, so I finally have nice photos of things  

That first thin-walled piece looks much nicer now that the photo's actually in focus and well-lit  






Did another to convince myself the first one wasn't a fluke.






Then talked myself into trying a 6" blank, with some colour stain and gilt cream.






This... did not go so well. Jumped off the lathe at my face and scared me and I chickened out of properly finishing the cut so it was thick and chunky and just messy looking. It annoyed me so much I took it back to the lathe the next day and did it right. 











I'm starting to see why people like this woodturning thing, it's _so fast_ to go from timber to finished piece. 

On the other hand, I also stuck my little finger into the buttons on a cole jaw yesterday* so while it's not as bad as the router, it's still mean and scary and bitey and throws things at my face. Maybe one of these days I'll get a bigger shed and make a pole lathe so it'll fit in nicely with all the hand tools 


* Nothing's broken but my manicure is _ruined_ lads


----------



## Bm101

Coming on Mark. (hammer) 
You know that pole latches actually thrive in an outdoor environment right? They love the camping life and are never happier than when being pumped hard by a man with bulging thighs and strong arms under canvas. It makes them spin. 
Keeping them indoors makes Hazel and Ash sad and brittle. Poor loves.
Google lorry canvas. Buy a bowsaw, length of threaded rod an old bill hook and you're practically a bodger already. 
Next step. Convincing the Mrs it's a google mistake this lorry canvas is a misdelivery but what with the lockdown they said just keep it.....
Little steps mate. Sacrifice the odd soldier for strategic longterm victory.
That's how the battle of my shed was won. 
When we moved here it was a 'summerhouse'. Then it was 'well _some_ stuff needs to be stored in there!'
These days she stops at the door like vampire. 
Play the long game.


----------



## Benpointer

Auricula theatre made from some left over green oak planks that had been air drying for the past 3 years. Back and roof from western cedar. Put the planer (Charnwood W590) through it's paces


----------



## Blackswanwood

The proportions on that look great Benpointer.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Very nice indeed!


----------



## Bm101

Lovely. Just going to get better looking as it weathers too.


----------



## MikeG.

That looks great Ben. Have you got something restraining it from falling forward?


----------



## Trainee neophyte

A bit of silliness: I was asked by my best beloved to make an exercise box. Not having a clue what one of those was, I had to look it up. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vobor-Multi-fu ... ljaz10cnVl

£169.79 flat packed, with free delivery! I happened to have some 18mm ply, so copied the design, glued instead of screwed, and Bob's your uncle.






I only posted this because it used about a quarter of a sheet of ply - say €20 plus glue and sandpaper. If people with more money than sense are paying £170 for a flat packed plywood box, then perhaps there is some mileage in it as a business for someone - lots of profit margin, it would seem.

It also makes an excellent foot-stool in between workout sessions, and if you turn it upside down it is a useful pot to put things in. The only oddity is that the handles are close to the closed top, rather than the open bottom (as it is in the photo, that is).

It is astonishingly sturdy - tested to 200kg without issue. Hopefully it will withstand the wife's circuit training enthusiasm. It's for jumping up and down on, doing backwards press-ups and other insanities. I go to the workshop while she does her "leaping about" as it's referred to in the family; it's safer, frankly.


----------



## fezman

Finished the prototype for my forthcoming office furniture build. 






This one will ultimately end up in the workshop - so little sanding and no finish.


----------



## Sachakins

Isolation Turning practice projects
5" Bowl, from oak and mahogany, from self made blank lamination


----------



## Sachakins

Isolation Turning practice projects
8.5" Bowl, from oak and mahogany, from self made blank lamination


----------



## MikeG.

Trainee neophyte":1mr3lre4 said:


> A bit of silliness: I was asked by my best beloved to make an exercise box........



Just tidy up the hand hole a little, TN, and that's a fine piece of work. It is harder than people think to make a tidy ply box, so well done to you.

Many moons ago I sold some furniture through Liberties, London, and on one visit to the showroom I saw a ply box on sale for over £200. Now, remember this was the 1980, so that's worth squillions these days. It was nicely made, obviously all done on a machine, and I couldn't think of anything more boring than turning those out day after day, so I didn't offer to undercut their supplier.


----------



## woodbloke66

A spice rack in Oak for my son in 'Lockdown London;






The first attempt was a miserable failure (shelves too narrow  ) and had Bog Oak wedges. The second attempt was better and fitted with Holly wedges. Also included in the package were a few trinkets...






...from the 'Dark Side'  - Rob


----------



## Trainee neophyte

MikeG.":1rwko9kw said:


> Trainee neophyte":1rwko9kw said:
> 
> 
> 
> A bit of silliness: I was asked by my best beloved to make an exercise box........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just tidy up the hand hole a little, TN, and that's a fine piece of work. It is harder than people think to make a tidy ply box, so well done to you.
> 
> Many moons ago I sold some furniture through Liberties, London, and on one visit to the showroom I saw a ply box on sale for over £200. Now, remember this was the 1980, so that's worth squillions these days. It was nicely made, obviously all done on a machine, and I couldn't think of anything more boring than turning those out day after day, so I didn't offer to undercut their supplier.
Click to expand...


Quite agree about the hand holes - but the user has reported that they are very grippy, and therefore good. A cunning design feature, it would seem. It was interesting to put my new-found approach to work - not being entirely agricultural, that is. I learned that I should have the courage of my convictions: sneaking up on every joint just takes forever to sort out, and has the opportunity to lash it up, on every joint. The next one I make, however...


----------



## John Brown

woodbloke66":37g24ayh said:


> A spice rack in Oak for my son in 'Lockdown London;
> 
> 
> 
> The first attempt was a miserable failure (shelves too narrow  ) and had Bog Oak wedges. The second attempt was better and fitted with Holly wedges. Also included in the package were a few trinkets...
> 
> 
> 
> ...from the 'Dark Side'  - Rob


Very nice, but 15 spices? Do you get the bible and the complete works of Shakespeare thrown in?


----------



## MikeG.

John Brown":31c95hzc said:


> .......Very nice, but 15 spices? ......



I totally agree. He should have put another shelf in. :wink:


----------



## MarkDennehy

Only one? Where would the bins go, hung underneath?


----------



## Benpointer

MikeG.":xiu884b3 said:


> That looks great Ben. Have you got something restraining it from falling forward?


Yes indeed Mike, there is a little oak arm that reaches out from the middle of the back, fixed to the wall with a stainless steel bracket. No way would it stay upright in the windy weather otherwise!

Thanks all for the comments


----------



## woodbloke66

John Brown":3ltsa6nk said:


> Very nice, but 15 spices? Do you get the bible and the complete works of Shakespeare thrown in?


I suggested eight or ten but the customer (my son) wanted fifteen. C'est la guerre  - Rob


----------



## Bm101

Alright. Calm down. I'm introducing shed style woodwork solutions.
I know. Some of you will think my dobtales are not up to scratch.
But it's the last thing made and more than that. It increases my joy in life exponentially by surround sound. And it was free. 
Years ago. I was young and free and had a good ish stereo. Then kids. Moving of houses. Life. 
The stereo got boxed up and stayed that way for 7 years. 
Well. No more. I don't have room or time in the house so I dug it out of the eaves and opened some boxes.
Made a dust cage from a bed sheet I may or may not have snaffled from my own house.  That Arcam dock is new old as is the loose cable that I can plug into my phone and play internet music drekly to my old fashioned separates. Who knew?







Need to hash a front cover with more cloth. Hot glue, scraps and magnets.

I had 2 wall mounted stands originally with two floor stands. The floor stands were given away years ago.
Not ideal but two corners sorted acoustically. 






I needed a cheap solution to total sound. No money for stands these days.















I shut the shed door and turned it up for a short while. Played Jeff Buckley. Hallelujah. Loud. 
Proper moment. 8) 
I'll make some dust covers for the speakers using the rest of tha bed sheet.
All speakers centred on the middle of the shed to my bench.
Might as well be hung for a sheep as a lamb.
No regrets.
The music. 

8) 
Cheers
Chris


----------



## Setch

Bm101 - if that's a log cabin, be careful fixing components across multiple "logs" as seasonal movement will cause problems.

My cabin varies significantly in height between hot summer and winter, and constraining that movement is asking for trouble...


----------



## Bm101

Thanks Setch. I'll take 2 screws out on both sides so it's just hanging on 2.


----------



## garethharvey

2 and a half years in the making. Started and had to put the project down. Finally finished all the wood working and half glazed the glasshouse. Ordered the glass for the roof and front windows last summer but never got round to fitting them.

Made from Western Red Cedar and finished with Linseed Oil Paint. Needs a final top coat once it's all glazed.

Now completed but waiting for lockdown to be lifted so I can order the rest of the glass and start growing.


----------



## Chris152

Wow, that looks fantastic.


----------



## Cornersruns

So. I was supposed to be in France on the bike this week with a group of mates, free of SWMBO as she won't get on the back of it  
Didn't cancel the annual leave I'd booked as I need a break.
A little parcel arrived from china with a small live centre that I'd forgotten I'd ordered as it was so long ago. Took a few hours for the grey matter to remember why I'd bought it. Ah hah, I was going to use it on the pillar drill so I could do a bit of playing. Sort of turning but using a Shinto rasp, files and sandpaper. Fairly pleased with what came out, and that the pillar drill bearings survived the abuse, it's an Aldi special, many years old but still going strong.

One Beech, one Cherry. A bit of brass I had lurking in the shed and an old sabre saw blade.


----------



## NickM

stunning.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

garethharvey":1oa2ugl2 said:


> 2 and a half years in the making. Started and had to put the project down. Finally finished all the wood working and half glazed the glasshouse. Ordered the glass for the roof and front windows last summer but never got round to fitting them.
> 
> Made from Western Red Cedar and finished with Linseed Oil Paint. Needs a final top coat once it's all glazed.
> 
> Now completed but waiting for lockdown to be lifted so I can order the rest of the glass and start growing.



That is quite something. I use metal hoops and plastic - poly tunnels work, but they're not pretty.


----------



## MikeG.

That looks fabulous, Gareth. Did you consider doing the traditional thing with smaller sheets of glazing overlapping, and with a curved lower edge?


----------



## RichardG

Wife wanted a sign for a garden in our village she is turning into a wild flower border. Found an old log, cut through at an angle using a hand saw. Planed flat and then used a hand held trimmer to engrave freehand following a paper template. Not sure how long it will last, that split looks ominous, may put a metal band round to hold it together...


----------



## MikeG.

Nice, Richard. Did someone steal all the personal pronouns from your text? :lol:


----------



## Sideways

MikeG.":2jj4wkix said:


> Nice, Richard. Did someone steal all the personal pronouns from your text? :lol:


Totally surperfluous. Knew exactly what he meant


----------



## MikeG.

Sideways":3uhs4rc8 said:


> MikeG.":3uhs4rc8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, Richard. Did someone steal all the personal pronouns from your text? :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Totally surperfluous. Knew exactly what *he* meant
Click to expand...


Close, but no cigar. :lol:


----------



## rafezetter

Cornersruns":2upimgt0 said:


> So. I was supposed to be in France on the bike this week with a group of mates, free of SWMBO as she won't get on the back of it
> Didn't cancel the annual leave I'd booked as I need a break.
> A little parcel arrived from china with a small live centre that I'd forgotten I'd ordered as it was so long ago. Took a few hours for the grey matter to remember why I'd bought it. Ah hah, I was going to use it on the pillar drill so I could do a bit of playing. Sort of turning but using a Shinto rasp, files and sandpaper. Fairly pleased with what came out, and that the pillar drill bearings survived the abuse, it's an Aldi special, many years old but still going strong.
> 
> One Beech, one Cherry. A bit of brass I had lurking in the shed and an old sabre saw blade.



If you made a base for the drill bed (is it called a bed?) with a bearing in it - you could put a (pointy) static end in that as well to potect the bearings and stop run out. - you could potentially make a sideways tool rest as well.

I did similar for my pillar drill sanding things - they have a bar going right through the middle chucked at the top and sits in a bearing at the bottom.

Just thought I'd mention it.


----------



## garethharvey

MikeG.":234cwoy1 said:


> That looks fabulous, Gareth. Did you consider doing the traditional thing with smaller sheets of glazing overlapping, and with a curved lower edge?



To be honest, we didn't. We always wanted a victorian style glasshouse and these were the only types we liked.

We used 4mm toughened glass in single sheets, the smaller sheets are much thiner and we possibly would have struggles to source them in toughened. With the roof being to large, we thought toughened was the only option.

Just waiting for everything to be lifted so we can order the remaining glass.


----------



## MikeG.

It was the Victorians and the Edwardians who did the smaller over-lapping panes detail. They just couldn't get big enough sheets of glass to do an entire run down one side of a a roof in a single sheet. Here's the one I have modeled mine on:
















There's no extra timberwork, just lapped panes of glass. I'll be starting ours sometime in the last 2 years. I promised.


----------



## garethharvey

MikeG.":33659m8k said:


> It was the Victorians and the Edwardians who did the smaller over-lapping panes detail. They just couldn't get big enough sheets of glass to do an entire run down one side of a a roof in a single sheet. Here's the one I have modeled mine on:
> 
> There's no extra timberwork, just lapped panes of glass. I'll be starting ours sometime in the last 2 years. I promised.



That looks great. Is the roof glass head in with putty?

I look forward to seeing your glasshouse


----------



## MikeG.

Yes, it's all puttied.


----------



## MikeG.

garethharvey":2rbhjj1f said:


> ......I look forward to seeing your glasshouse



It will form the other half of this building:


----------



## rafezetter

MikeG.":3fozq6dk said:


> It was the Victorians and the Edwardians who did the smaller over-lapping panes detail. They just couldn't get big enough sheets of glass to do an entire run down one side of a a roof in a single sheet. Here's the one I have modeled mine on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's no extra timberwork, just lapped panes of glass. I'll be starting ours sometime in the last 2 years. I promised.



I wonder - were the curved bottoms of the sheets because they were spun? IIRC that's how they made glass sheets, spinning a flat disk and the bullseye (much sort after now ironically) was the unwanted waste - the doors that had bullseyes in them were the poor and the cheapskates.


----------



## RichardG

MikeG.":7i0iy1d3 said:


> Nice, Richard. Did someone steal all the personal pronouns from your text? :lol:


I was in engraver mode where every superfluous word was removed...


----------



## MikeG.

rafezetter":344xu4gm said:


> ..........were the curved bottoms of the sheets because they were spun?



No, it's just to concentrate the water that runs down the roof into the middle, keeping it away from the timber and putty.



> IIRC that's how they made glass sheets, spinning a flat disk.......



Well, sort of. They used to blow it, then cut open the resulting big bulb and open it out whilst it was still warm. The bullseye was where the glass connected to the tube.


----------



## marcros

MikeG.":4wgqdzlz said:


> rafezetter":4wgqdzlz said:
> 
> 
> 
> ..........were the curved bottoms of the sheets because they were spun?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, it's just to concentrate the water that runs down the roof into the middle, keeping it away from the timber and putty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IIRC that's how they made glass sheets, spinning a flat disk.......
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Well, sort of. They used to blow it, then cut open the resulting big bulb and open it out whilst it was still warm. The bullseye was where the glass connected to the tube.
Click to expand...


glass making process https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QO75WvW ... gs=pl%2Cwn

not sure on the bullseye. it makes sense but all of the videos I have seen cut it off and didn't make a bullseye piece.


----------



## Fitzroy

The other end of the plant warming spectrum!











Hoping to grow something more exotic with the extra heat. 

Construction is 20mm pvc overflow pipes onto a 4x2 wooden frame. All in its about £50. So well worth a punt. 

Fitz.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Fitzroy":2n6cpc1v said:


> The other end of the plant warming spectrum!
> 
> View attachment 83841
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping to grow something more exotic with the extra heat.
> 
> Construction is 20mm pvc overflow pipes onto a 4x2 wooden frame. All in its about £50. So well worth a punt.
> 
> Fitz.



More my kind of gardening! Good work.


----------



## Bm101

Coppiced hazel stem is abundant and free if you are responsible for making bowed canvas type supports. Just a thought for temporary cold frames.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

A couple of things i recently finished making. 

Made some new doors for the end of the hall cupboard. Faux “shaker style”, as ordered by SWMBO, made from MDF. I am mot a big fan of working with MDF, and hopefully that’s the last painted project for a very long time! But for someone colourblind, i’m pleased with the colour i chose. Also replaced the original bowed chipboard shelves with birch ply.











Also a mirror frame i finished making a few weeks ago for an old beveled mirror which my Gran once owned. Rippled ash with walnut splines. The mirror and frame together are surprisingly heavy!


----------



## Phil Pascoe

rafezetter"
I wonder - were the curved bottoms of the sheets because they were spun? IIRC that's how they made glass sheets said:


> To get that arc they'd need to spin a disc about twenty feet across.


----------



## transatlantic

Made another plane.





Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk


----------



## rafezetter

marcros":1wq8wu0s said:


> MikeG.":1wq8wu0s said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rafezetter":1wq8wu0s said:
> 
> 
> 
> ..........were the curved bottoms of the sheets because they were spun?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, it's just to concentrate the water that runs down the roof into the middle, keeping it away from the timber and putty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IIRC that's how they made glass sheets, spinning a flat disk.......
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Well, sort of. They used to blow it, then cut open the resulting big bulb and open it out whilst it was still warm. The bullseye was where the glass connected to the tube.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> glass making process https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QO75WvW ... gs=pl%2Cwn
> 
> not sure on the bullseye. it makes sense but all of the videos I have seen cut it off and didn't make a bullseye piece.
Click to expand...


I'm certain I've seen a video where the molten glass was just spun and spun into a disk, if that method above was used (and not sure how 200 years ago) it doesnt explain how bullseye glass comes about.

A hand spun disk of glass however, _does_ explain how a glass bullseye with a section of FLAT glass around it can be formed.


aha - found something similar to what I've seen - it's called a "crown" of glass.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzBXU2ovfGo

and another one - sorry about the awful music - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aw43nRwZrTw.

flat glass - round edge, bullseye middle - no fancy machines.


----------



## nev

Next doors 7 year old asked if I could make a car for him. ''Go and draw one and I'll have a go'' says I.
I am leaving it for him to put together and paint. (the wheels aren't on properly in the pics)


----------



## woodbloke66

A linen chest in Euro Oak with Bog Oak accent details:































Finished with a couple of coats of Osmo PolyX and burnished with 0000grade wire wool dipped in decent wax polish - Rob


----------



## MikeG.

=D> =D> =D> Very nice Rob. Rift sawn "legs" (corner frames)........ I like that. A modern take on a classic look.


----------



## woodbloke66

MikeG.":34wu84ie said:


> =D> =D> =D> Very nice Rob. Rift sawn "legs" (corner frames)........ I like that. A modern take on a classic look.


Thanks Mike; corners are mitred with a long 6mm thick ply spline for reinforcement. Should be more than strong enough - Rob


----------



## MikeG.

What's that frame gadget in the last photo? Is it to hold the lid whilst you mark out the hinges?


----------



## woodbloke66

MikeG.":1oy32iqt said:


> What's that frame gadget in the last photo? Is it to hold the lid whilst you mark out the hinges?


Yep, the lid is extremely heavy and almost impossible to hold steady in position for marking out the hinges. Using the screws and that frame contraption, the lid can be raised steadily until it's in exactly the right position for marking out. Works a treat  - Rob


----------



## pulleyt

Carrying on with another idea inspired by Desmond King and taken from his website gallery, here is a table-top display stand comprising two hinged screens and a floating shelf. It stands 300mm tall and works best against a natural light source.











Stay safe, Trevor


----------



## bourbon

Not to everyone's high standards, But , Hey I was enjoying myself in the garage on lock down. There are two of these, and yes, I know my camera is no good.


----------



## NickM

Here are some photos of the "art desk" I've made.


----------



## weekend_woodworker

Nick, 

That is a very elegant desk. I like the design looking very simple, though I am sure it wasn’t.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Noggsy

I’ve completed the diamond plate set and thought it was time to put them in a frame for ease;


----------



## Bacms

A small pedestal table with the only purpose of raising a 10L water bidon so we can it's tap without it needing to be on an edge. 

Took the chance to get some training on mortise and tenon joints, I believe it's the 3rd time I am using them and still having trouble getting it to fit just right. It doesn't fit until the point is too loose on the mortice. 
Anyway, good practice and happy with the learning process, very few things give me so much enjoyment as cutting joints by hand so definitely need to keep going. Next project is probably some dovetails


----------



## MikeG.

Bacms":skuaxkyg said:


> ........very few things give me so much enjoyment as cutting joints by hand........



=D> =D> Excellent. A man after my own heart......

Rift sawn legs.....internet bonus points for those. Are the legs ash? Half a point off for the sapwood in the oak. Anyway, well done.


----------



## Hornbeam

Bacms said:


> A small pedestal table with the only purpose of raising a 10L water bidon so we can it's tap without it needing to be on an edge.
> 
> Very nice. Looks like it would also be suitable for a wine box


----------



## Nelsun

NickM":1s319dpy said:


> Here are some photos



Love that Nick. The moving middle panel looks like a good fit which can't have been easy.


----------



## Lons

That's really nice, you should quite rightly be proud of it. 
I like the sapwood btw, adds a bit more character.


----------



## Bacms

MikeG.":2qn1ofh4 said:


> Bacms":2qn1ofh4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ........very few things give me so much enjoyment as cutting joints by hand........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> =D> =D> Excellent. A man after my own heart......
> 
> Rift sawn legs.....internet bonus points for those. Are the legs ash? Half a point off for the sapwood in the oak. Anyway, well done.
Click to expand...


Legs are maple and I know the inclusion of sapwood isn't for everyone but I like the contrast. You are lucky I couldn't include a big knot


----------



## MikeG.

Knots are fine. Sapwood? Nope...the bugs love that.


----------



## richarddownunder

A wooden clock: Baltic Birch ply, bits of Sapele and some stainless steel tube (for weights) from the scrap bin. Had a lot of help with understanding the plans from another UK Woodworker (thanks Brian) who had built the same clock. In the end though, once you have figured it out, it isn't that tricky to make and just requires a bit of careful sawing and finishing of the teeth. Keeps good time and was a lot of fun - maybe I'll make a more complicated one. One day. 

The plans are available online https://www.lisaboyer.com/Claytonsite/s ... ypage1.htm

Cheers
Richard


----------



## thetyreman

patched up a knot today, too much excitement for one day!


----------



## MikeG.

What's that for Ben? Some might have taken a bit more of it away.


----------



## transatlantic

thetyreman":24psg391 said:


> patched up a knot today, too much excitement for one day!


You didn't align the grain you monster! [PERSEVERING FACE]

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk


----------



## stuckinthemud

I need to twist a string and re-do some of the binding, but basically done. 45lb crossbow, ash lath, mulberry stock and tickler with antler inlays. The stirrup is a freebie from my village blacksmith, so even though its a little too large, I'm not complaining!


----------



## gregmcateer

Nice!


----------



## thetyreman

I could do with a cross bow for killing the family of rats that have come into our garden since lockdown


----------



## Farm Labourer

Wifey wanted a stand to raise the height of her lap-top. Used in conjunction with a remote keyboard. Iroko and Osmo.


----------



## thetyreman

MikeG.":3a5p2q8q said:


> What's that for Ben? Some might have taken a bit more of it away.



it's for a top secret project mike, I will reveal all once it's finished promise


----------



## Petey83

Nothing fancy but making a batch of these for friends and family out of some left over Cedar of Lebanon was what got me back into wood working at the start of lockdown.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Simple small bowl from spalted beech. Largest blank turned so far (it's only 8" but I've just been doing smaller blanks to now).


----------



## Trevanion

Something that's frankly taken me WAAAY too long to get around to doing! :lol:


----------



## MarkDennehy

Had this idea rattling around inside my head long enough that I got annoyed enough to build it.
MT2 arbour blank, box, some mounting hardware and a voltage regulator (connected up to a USB power bank out of frame), laser diode, collimator with cross-line screen.











Plug it into your tailstock, line up the vertical line with the indexing plate's indicator that most modern minilathes have...






...put on your chuck and now you have the piece's centerline indicated by laser to help beginners set up their tool rest height.











I mean, everyone gets to where setting it by eye is second nature (I hope to get to that stage in a year or two  ) and for spindle turning you'd need a magnet on the box or outrigger on the tailstock so it could still show a centerline on a spindle, but this is (a) a prototype and (b) mostly a way to get the idea out of my head where it was annoying me  

Would someone mind telling me what this thing is called btw? I've been trying to find it but nobody seems to make it and it's annoying me that I can't see how close I got to the manufactured one


----------



## marcros

You could market something like that. I think it would sell pretty well.


----------



## transatlantic

MarkDennehy":2ti2hwuj said:


> Had this idea rattling around inside my head long enough that I got annoyed enough to build it.
> MT2 arbour blank, box, some mounting hardware and a voltage regulator (connected up to a USB power bank out of frame), laser diode, collimator with cross-line screen.



Clever idea! ... given that most laser pens fit on a key ring, you could get this down in size to no bigger than the arbour itself. Not sure about battery life though.


----------



## MarkDennehy

I was thinking about it and you'd want some method to adjust it for pitch, but yeah, a 3D printed doohickey would give you both the arbour and space in it for a battery and the adjustment mechanism. 

What I'm kindof shocked by is that nobody's come out and said _"Oh yeah, that's a Thingamajig, made by YerManOverThere ltd"_. Is this actually a new idea???


----------



## MikeG.

If it is, I'm afraid that this public posting of the details would invalidate any patent application. It was the first thing I was warned about when I patented an invention 10 or 15 years ago.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Dang, and here was me with twenty grand burning a hole in my "pay for a patent lawyer" pocket


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Wouldn't a pencil line across the diameter serve the same purpose?


----------



## Bm101

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-Center-E ... B00T7PBKPI

Well out my depth here Mark but is this similar? I just searched laser centre finder. Not sure its suitable to use with a lathe. Tell you what though a laser pen for the drill press ain't a bad idea for some situations.


----------



## MarkDennehy

To be honest, your eyeballs and skill serve the same purpose Phil, I wasn't suggesting it as a replacement for anything. I had an idea, it refused to get out of my skull when asked politely, I had to resort to building the sodding thing to get it to shift, and after that I thought I'd show and tell for fun. 

Also, thanks Bm101, I knew a new idea had no business being in my head


----------



## MikeJhn

They told me that making furniture was difficult, I am opening my shop tomorrow:


----------



## kevinlightfoot

And you would probably sell some.


----------



## MarkDennehy

"rustic" and "artisan" and "upcycled"


----------



## MikeG.

MikeJhn":c0gk4vof said:


> They told me that making furniture was difficult, I am opening my shop tomorrow:




Hmm........I have occasional need for such torture devices. Please make that available now and then for miscreants who think a planer is a jointer, or a lintel is a header. Don't worry, Carruthers will clean the blood off afterwards.


----------



## Trevanion

MikeG.":3u4m80r5 said:


> Hmm........I have occasional need for such torture devices. Please make that available now and then for miscreants who think a planer is a jointer, or a lintel is a header. Don't worry, Carruthers will clean the blood off afterwards.



What about people that call a rafter a beam?


----------



## MikeJhn

Or the absolute worse for me is those that call concrete "cement".


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

MikeJhn":9kxozqk1 said:


> Or the absolute worse for me is those that call concrete "cement".


Or call any kind of steel beam or column an RSJ :lol:


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Been slowly chipping away at a guitar pedal board for my brother out of this lovely english walnut


----------



## MikeG.

Trevanion":3kwej1js said:


> MikeG.":3kwej1js said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm........I have occasional need for such torture devices. Please make that available now and then for miscreants who think a planer is a jointer, or a lintel is a header. Don't worry, Carruthers will clean the blood off afterwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about people that call a rafter a beam?
Click to expand...


Or people who use "that" instead of "who". :lol: :lol: 

Or people who call a joist a rafter. Or any timbers in an old building "beams", even if they are braces, purlins, or, worst of all, posts or studs. Or people who talk about plans, rather than drawings (if said drawings are elevations, sections etc). That chair is going to be busier than I thought.


----------



## thetyreman

Sawdust=manglitter":2owb9xlt said:


> Been slowly chipping away at a guitar pedal board for my brother out of this lovely english walnut



very nice! do you mind posting a pic with the pedals on once it's complete? I love seeing guitar rigs and pedalboards.


----------



## Farm Labourer

Wifey ( an artistic, creative sort) wanted some "flower vases". She produced some sketches - here they are...... oak and cherry.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Sawdust=manglitter":1ruppmlw said:


> MikeJhn":1ruppmlw said:
> 
> 
> 
> Or the absolute worse for me is those that call concrete "cement".
> 
> 
> 
> Or call any kind of steel beam or column an RSJ :lol:
Click to expand...


or call drawers "draws".


----------



## MickCheese

Blanket chest made for my daughters birthday. 

She loved it!

Mick


----------



## Fitzroy

What's the wood?


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

thetyreman":25rpucz3 said:


> very nice! do you mind posting a pic with the pedals on once it's complete? I love seeing guitar rigs and pedalboards.



Will do. May be a while though as my brother’s still waiting for the fittings, power supply etc to be delivered. Plus we’re still on full lockdown in Wales atm, so wont see my brother for a while yet as i’m not as un-touchable as a certain chief advisor to the PM :lol:


----------



## MikeJhn

Phil Pascoe":2ps0ietf said:


> Sawdust=manglitter":2ps0ietf said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MikeJhn":2ps0ietf said:
> 
> 
> 
> Or the absolute worse for me is those that call concrete "cement".
> 
> 
> 
> Or call any kind of steel beam or column an RSJ :lol:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> or call drawers "draws".
Click to expand...


No I can forgive that one, as I have done it.


----------



## Blackswanwood

MickCheese":1l8u6i6f said:


> Blanket chest made for my daughters birthday.
> 
> She loved it!
> 
> Mick



Very nice Mick - is that chestnut?


----------



## NickM

From some scraps I had left over from other things, I made a box for my "kuub"* set (the bag it came in is a bit weak and starting to fray).

I also made the little oak mallet for knocking the pitch markers in. That fits into the space on the right hand side of the box

The rope handle for the box was a "plan B". Plan A was a wooden handle but that snapped off!






*Kuub is a Scandinavian game. It basically involves throwing bits of wood to knock over other bits of wood and is really good fun. Making the pieces for the game would be another good little project but I already had those.


----------



## Brian McManus

First bit of woodwork in 20 years !


----------



## Alpha-Dave

An evening’s work making a pair of draw knife sheaths using: some ash from a test-piece for a picture frame; some left over sapelle from a garden table build; and leather straps from a scrapped handbag.


----------



## HOJ

NickM":1h2kh4q8 said:


> *Kuub is a Scandinavian game. It basically involves throwing bits of wood to knock over other bits of wood and is really good fun. Making the pieces for the game would be another good little project but I already had those.



Made a Oak set a few years ago, sat under my bench ever since, gave it to a young family I know at start of lock down, they apparently have had a great time playing it, might get to have a go at some point.

Box looks good by the way.


----------



## pulleyt

I recently came across the idea of tensegrity for the first time and was intrigued enough to have a go. The stand comprises two 90 mm squares and stands approx 200 mm high - it is symmetrical so doesn't have a particular top or bottom. 

I love the slightly surreal floating top shelf.


----------



## AndyT

I suspect Google gives a lot of us very similar YouTube recommendations - I couldn't resist making one of those as well. Oddly satisfying!


----------



## xy mosian

Tensegrity. Definately eye catching, oddly mesmerising.
xy


----------



## marcros

xy mosian":wf9zcxxa said:


> Tensegrity. Definately eye catching, oddly mesmerising.
> xy



Still not entirely convinced it isn't witchcraft.


----------



## xy mosian

marcros":jeg6gjv5 said:


> xy mosian":jeg6gjv5 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Tensegrity. Definately eye catching, oddly mesmerising.
> xy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still not entirely convinced it isn't witchcraft.
Click to expand...


Now you have put a whole new aspect to the wizardry.  
xy


----------



## MarkDennehy

Fire pretty! (but lacquer drippy  I'll have to recut this with 00 steel wool and add another coat tomorrow I think. It's always that last coat that gets me...)





















Ash blank, about 5" across, burned the rim with a propane torch, brushed with a steel brush, burned again, cleaned with compressed air, sealed and rubbed gold embellishing wax into the grain before finishing all over with carnuba wax and lacquer.


----------



## woodhutt

A new cherry handle for an old Stanley 12 oz Warrington that belonged to my Dad.
Used spokeshaves, files and abrasives to shape. Finished with BLO.








Pete


----------



## MusicMan

To go with my lockdown baking, a pizza slice. Poplar (tulipwood) 7.5 mm thick, 340 mm wide to suit my pizza tile, maple handle. One coat of mineral oil.


----------



## MikeJhn

Is mineral oil the correct coating to use on a food item? genuine question, not trying to be a SA.


----------



## Chris152

MikeJhn":198er4p4 said:


> Is mineral oil the correct coating to use on a food item? genuine question, not trying to be a SA.


I believe that's what Chestnut food safe oil is, Mike - pharmaceutical grade.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Yes, it's food safe, often used for butcher's blocks etc. It's not the same thing as machine oil.


----------



## MikeJhn

I used to use mineral oil in my car, but would not want it on a Pizza, the OP did not qualify the type, hence the question.


----------



## MusicMan

It was indeed Chestnut food safe oil, aka mineral oil. I think it is usually liquid paraffin (safe to drink as a mild laxative!). No, I did not put diesel oil under my pizzas!

The glue was Gorilla wood glue, also certified as food safe.


----------



## Max Power

Fitzroy":paczxvwm said:


> What's the wood?


It's Cherry


----------



## Trevanion

Not so much the last thing I made as the last thing I was working on, has anyone else ever put the whole top casting of a morticer in their vice before?







Excuse the shambles :lol:


----------



## AndyT

Were you going to plane it or saw a bit off?
Quite sturdy, those old Records!


----------



## grumpycorn

Inspired by Mike G’s Tudor rose, I had a go at carving something into some shelves for my Star Wars mad seven year old. It’s on the bottom of the lower shelf so only he knows it’s there. £3 for a small gouge on eBay, some YouTubing and a lot of fun later this was the result; I’ll definitely be having a go at carving again.

Shelves are euro oak with a coat of osmo. I lose a point for using a smidge of sapwood (I can't wait for Duffield Timber to open on the 15th!), but hopefully gain it back for clocking the screws! The brackets were fiddly but let me use up some scraps I had lying about. The customer is pleased which is the main thing.


----------



## bourbon

Managed to Hopefully resize the image. They are a free plan. Still making them with whatever size wheels I have in stock. I can't seem to rotate the picture, but It gives you an Idea.


----------



## Dalboy

bourbon":35y27y8a said:


> Managed to Hopefully resize the image. They are a free plan. Still making them with whatever size wheels I have in stock. I can't seem to rotate the picture, but It gives you an Idea.



Three nice models, like me with the first one I made it was modified to suit the recipient it was for.


----------



## woodbloke66

Now that 'lockdown' restrictions have finally started to ease, I've been able to get down to the glaziers and get this Fossil Cabinet for my daughter dun n'dusted:











When HMG gives us the 'green light' it'll be delivered to Carlisle - Rob


----------



## Droogs

ooh, I like a brunette with legs :twisted:


----------



## Lons

Droogs":327712av said:


> ooh, I like a brunette with legs :twisted:


 Behave! 
Maybe not your fault, you might have _lockdown lust_.


----------



## Hornbeam

Been making a number of small boxes lately
Box 1 is a simple dovetailed yew box 230 X 170 X 90 with ceder lining and 2 ash trays. Top and bottom panels are solid floating panels Trays are ash. Small ebony handle fitted









Box 2 is an olive ash cufflink box 260 X 220 X 60 with bandsawn veneered top and oak lining and dividers, The dividers are removeable so I can fit a lower lining or totally change if required










Box 3 is 240 X 200 X 100 and is the last of my yew, with fumed oak and ebony handles. each side is made from 2 pieces of yew with the bark edge forming a feature. The pieces are joined using a rebated fumed oak piece. Internal linings are fumed oak. The lids are bandsawn yew veneers with fumed oak lippings and secondary veneer underneath the openings in the yew. Trays are ash


----------



## MikeG.

What have you done to that ash to make it so white?


----------



## Hornbeam

Hi Mike. The ash was American white ash, which is slightly whiter but has a coarser grain than UK ash. Finish was acrylic sealer with a very light hard wax. Not my favourite finish but I think it is best for pale woods. generally I prefer oil based finishes as i find them easy to apply and rectify any finishing defects/damage in use
Ian


----------



## Buckeye

Finished blanket chest. Beech with eight panels veneered with Quarter sawn London Plane on the outside and Cedar of Lebanon on the inside. Ebonised beech bead on the panels outside. Beaded ship-lapped bottom.

Just waiting for the lid stays to come in stock. That is all the wood used up during lock-down!


----------



## Blackswanwood

That is beautiful Buckeye =D> =D> =D>


----------



## Hornbeam

Really nice chest, I like the contrast between the figured panels and teh bead. What did you use to ebonise the beech
Ian


----------



## AndyT

If you took photos as you went, that's worth a proper write-up. How you bought the wood, chose the design, actually building it, as much as you can really.


----------



## NickM

Proper job. It looks fantastic.


----------



## Buckeye

I have some photos and will post them up. I used black printer ink to ebonise the beech. First time veneering so that was a bit stressful but the panels were small so just used cauls to clamp up ok. Veneer was from Capital Crispin.


----------



## OM99

just a few items i recently made all unplugged


----------



## MikeG.

Those coasters certainly look like red oak to me.


----------



## John15

Congratulations Buckeye. I love the shaping you have achieved to the legs and the London Plane panels are gorgeous.

John


----------



## samhay

My lockdown project, a baritone ukulele or nylon string tenor guitar depending on mood.
Design brief was to make do with what I could find in the shed. Top, back and sides is quartersawn pitch pine, which was formerly a wardrobe shelf. Neck is sapele, formerly a vice chop. Fingerboard, bridge and binding are some other species of African mahoganoid, and were formerly a handrail.
I bent the sides with a DIY bending iron fashioned from a metal drink bottle and a 100w lightbulb. 
I did have to buy the fretwire, tuning machines, nut and saddle.

It's a bit wonky in places (will use a proper form next time), but plays and sounds ok and has kept me out of trouble. Reasonably happy for my first foray into building an acoustic instrument.


----------



## MikeG.

=D> =D> Blimey, that's impressive for a first guitar. Are you now a luthier?


----------



## samhay

Not sure Mike, but it's a slippery slope.
Thanks.
I have done plenty of work on electric guitars before, but this was quite a step up.

One other thing to note is that apparently stream bending pitch pine smells petty funky. I couldn't smell much when I was doing this, but I was nearly not let back indoors afterwards. Might not try that again.


----------



## MikeJhn

Samhay just a heads up one of the first symptoms of the Covid 19 is loss of sense of smell, take your temperature just to be sure.


----------



## samhay

I'm aware. It was a couple of months ago, and I'm back to normal now.


----------



## MikeJhn

OK just thought it was worth mentioning.


----------



## samhay

No problem - is a good point. 
Thanks.


----------



## pulleyt

I do like a simple representational ornament that can adapted for a production run using jigs like the block santas I've posted about before. Recently, one of the Axminster emails had a link to a simple project for a block owl to make with kids. I loved the simplicity of the design so came up with a variation that I could make using jigs on the drill press and the disc sander. 

Like the block santas I used offcuts of 25 mm square stock in maple that I cut to 50 mm lengths. I drilled the eyes with a 12mm forstner bit and then glued in a 12mm plug cut from scraps of walnut. I drilled out part of the plugs in the same jig as before as I liked the sunken look and the centre 'divot' for the eyes. 






Trivial stuff, but strangely satisfying and they got an enthusiastic response from the family.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

They would make good pawns in weird chess set.


----------



## Fitzroy

Not top class woodwork but a new stand for the thicknesser, yes it’s a Dewalt PT with the tables taken off!

The motor hangs off the back so I wanted to make an asymmetrical frame. Additionally the legs are splayed on each frame. All done as a foray into legs splayed in multiple directions and the resulting compound angles. 

Frames are mortice and tenoned, cross members are lap joints. The compound angles made my head hurt and really taxed my brain. Eventually figured it out and was pleased with how well everything went together. A fun day in the workshop.






The top is plum it’s just the photos and angles that make it look off. 

Fitz.


----------



## doctor Bob

Not my normal stuff.
Starting to make a doggy assault course for my wifes dog walking field. It's a pay to walk field 7 acres, I'm making seats and tables, tunnels, climbs, weaves, tennis ball catapault. All made from old tractor tyres and scoffold stuff.

This sort of stuff


----------



## Bm101

Ohhhhhh.
Bit above your usual standard then Bob?
Need some help?


----------



## doctor Bob

Bm101":1n141aba said:


> Ohhhhhh.
> Bit above your usual standard then Bob?
> Need some help?



You never know Chris, see how it goes. Got a lot to do but occasionally it's quite nice to forget the tape measure and sharp chisels and bring out the chainsaw and sledge hammer.


----------



## Bm101

I'm with you Bob. Its getting a bit like that with the home schooling. I'm ok honest.


----------



## Ross M

What I think was the last thing my dad made before he passed away. He saw it in a magazine piece from a stately home, and went to visit. The owner was kind enough to bring it out of storage, take photos and measurements.

And he built this. 

This summer he was going to show me how to start woodworking, sadly never got to start.


----------



## AndyT

That's a sad story but a beautifully made table. I hope you are able to keep it in the family.


----------



## Ross M

Yes I am keeping it along with many cabinets. I just wish I had much more storage space for these things.


----------



## MikeG.

Well, he certainly knew what he was doing. There's some skill in that.


----------



## Buckeye

Sorry for your loss Ross M. Thanks for sharing the picture and story behind that piece.


----------



## Bacms

I made a small box as I really wanted to have a go at the first attempt of cutting dovetails. 

Was a good learning experience with plenty of mistakes made through the process. 
The original plan was to leave the back higher so I could attach the lid but forgot to include the overlap of the sizes on the measure so it ended up being too small #-o. Meanwhile, I had already planned the rest of the board to size so had to reuse that piece as one of the sides and came up with a new lid design. 
For the lid, I took the opportunity to give a try at using a Stanely 45 I was gifted by a good friend to cut the bottom of the lid which worked perfectly along the grain but made a mess across the grain despite me knifing the edge. 

Anyway here it is, English Oak for the sides and English walnut for the top 









DSC_1032 by Bruno Santos, on Flickr


----------



## stuckinthemud

Sheath took about 30 hours to carve. Apple finished with tinted Danish oil. Ojime bead took another few hours. The netsuke I carved a few years back, ojime and netsuke are carved from the same fallow deer antler. The glue line is a bit disappointing but something weird happened when I split the timber, like a tiny warp or twist as the tension came out of the wood? The thing would not clamp back together even though when I dry-trialled it everything look really snug, when it came out of the clamps ( 1 clamp per inch) there was still a tiny gap in places. I even took it apart, cleaned up the joint and tried again. I ended up splining it.


----------



## xy mosian

That is impressive, both as a whole and as separate items. I like the Owl in the netsuke particularly, but the time and attention to detail in the cone of the sheath is very evident.
Nice work.
xy.


----------



## Petey83

Walnut, Cherry and Canadian maple side grain serving / cutting board finished with 3 coats of food safe mineral oil and a coat if natural Beeswax.


----------



## Bm101

stuckinthemud":3aeixvk0 said:


> Sheath took about 30 hours to carve. Apple finished with tinted Danish oil. Ojime bead took another few hours. The netsuke I carved a few years back, ojime and netsuke are carved from the same fallow deer antler. The glue line is a bit disappointing but something weird happened when I split the timber, like a tiny warp or twist as the tension came out of the wood? The thing would not clamp back together even though when I dry-trialled it everything look really snug, when it came out of the clamps ( 1 clamp per inch) there was still a tiny gap in places. I even took it apart, cleaned up the joint and tried again. I ended up splining it.


There so much good work posted on here it's hard not to end up commenting. But that is rather special. Amazingly I even know what netsuke is or _are_ I suppose. Any photos of the blade? Always did like a knife, me.


----------



## stuckinthemud

You're very kind, thank you. The blade is a bog standard Swedish carving knife I bought because I love them, I've had 3, but I've misplaced 2 of them over the years. It has a 2 inch blade and is very battered but then it is used every day.


----------



## DavidEP

Been a viewer for a while, but just joined UKW. I came here for advice and to learn more., hopefully much more!

Made this coaster holder last weekend.




Layers are: Mahogany (reclaimed), Maple, Wenge, Maple, Padauk, Maple, Wenge, Maple, Mahogany (reclaimed)

Added felt to the bottom and brown leather on the inside to support the coasters (not shown in this image). 
Finished with de-waxed shellac and danish oil.


----------



## Fidget

I have been trying to find some furniture that I like for my refurbished conservatory but as usual I couldn't find anything, so I made this sofa/bench. My own design although I'm sure I have probably been influenced by outside sources. Oak that I bought off Gumtree for about £30 finished with Osmo. Domino joinery, I'm a little scared of M&Ts, I just know that I would **** it up somehow. I've strengthened the joints on the long rails with some huge wood connector screws.
I'm quite pleased how it's turned out. Next week A whole load of upholstery stuff and a friend with a sewing machine are turning up and it will get full length box cushions


----------



## Dr Al

Today I made a simple jig to allow me to run a router over the surface of a bit of wood as a pseudo planer/thicknesser. It allows the router to travel anywhere on the surface at a fairly consistent height, so if the wood is shimmed stable (held down with double-sided tape) one side can be machined flat and then it can be turned over and machined on the other side.

Made it out of a length of 40 × 40 × 4 mm aluminium extrusion I had lying around, along with some UHMW tape. It currently runs on some t-slot extrusion that came out of a skip a while ago but I haven't got enough left for two good length runners (I had to borrow the long length from my welding arm support).

I might actually have to buy some material to finish it off :shock:
















I did a quick proof-of-concept test with a bit of walnut that was very much not flat and it worked very well. It leaves light track marks in the surface of the wood, but a few seconds with a random orbital sander (or, I imagine a plane, which would probably leave a nicer finish) gets rid of them.


----------



## Bm101

Like your style Dr Al. I use a wooden jig thats sits on steel box section that I clamp to the top sides of my bench. It's not perfect but it's fairly accurate and cheap. I have 2 long lengths left over from making cramps with sash heads that I kept back for making doors (at some point, hopefully) that I cramp down as runners, they are long enough to be cramped at the ends of he bench. It's height adjustment that I find the headache. I use spacers but a properly adjustable solution using wingnut type fixings would be better and not that complex. I think my set up is geared towards slight larger bits of wood though.
Have you seen these type of dedicated cutters? Just in case it helps...
https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Surface-Trim.html
https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/On ... g_250.html

I was also just gifted a small p/t but I haven't got around to trying it yet.  All my woodwork lately being of the mdf architrave/door restoration/hanging/repairing etc diy variety. 

Wooo. It's exciting stuff now.


----------



## Dr Al

Bm101":2l4qjn2c said:


> Have you seen these type of dedicated cutters? Just in case it helps...
> https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Surface-Trim.html
> https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/On ... g_250.html



I hadn't seen those, so thanks for sharing them. Only one will fit my jig at the moment (I made it for my smaller router, which will only take 1/4" or 8mm cutters), but it will hopefully improve the finish, so probably worthwhile.


----------



## Rob_Mc

A rack to hold my parallel jaw clamps.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Rob_Mc":1d44xq0o said:


> A rack to hold my parallel jaw clamps.


If I was Welsh I would say, "That's tidy, that is". Because it is.


----------



## Rob_Mc

... more importantly it keeps my work area tidy so I don't keep tripping over them. Simple construction but effective and space efficient. Made from free material too ... an old window sill board the builders kindly left behind in my loft.


----------



## Doug71

Very tidy clamp rack, I am also impressed that your workshop has coving and Anaglypta on the ceiling :shock:


----------



## Blackswanwood

Ash keepsake box


----------



## AndyT

That's a lovely box, especially the top. How hard was it to do the top? I'm assuming it's not your first go.


----------



## Chris152

Really nice - is the top ash, too? Beautiful piece to have chosen.


----------



## sammy.se

Here's what I made today: a stow away sheet cutting table to use with my tracksaw, to break down MDF, ply sheets etc. I aim to build a few cabinets over the next few months

Can be used on my saw horses or on the ground.


The first couple of parts were cut by hand, then a template bit in a router to make the rest of the pieces.

The goal was to have something that can be packed away in a small space (which is why I don't use a sheet of kingspan, for example.

Needless to say, OSB, splinters galore.
I also gouged my hand with a chisel :-( may need stitches but it has stopped bleeding now. It does ache though.














Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk


----------



## Lazurus

Is that real grass ???


----------



## sammy.se

Lazurus":1q6smvff said:


> Is that real grass ???


Haha no! Fake grass. I need to hire a power brush to brush it up a bit , it has become a bit matted. 

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk


----------



## Blackswanwood

AndyT":30h3txez said:


> That's a lovely box, especially the top. How hard was it to do the top? I'm assuming it's not your first go.



Thanks Andy. The top isn’t that difficult. I made this one using dovetails and As I don’t do them very often found them more taxing.


----------



## Blackswanwood

Chris152":1r13mq0p said:


> Really nice - is the top ash, too? Beautiful piece to have chosen.


Thanks Chris. Yes - it caught my eye and I bought it described as Olive Ash not really knowing whether it was Olive or Ash. I have subsequently learned curly grained Ash is Olive Ash! It has about 50 applications of hard wax as I didn’t want to risk using oil and turning it yellow.


----------



## custard

Blackswanwood":dornakf0 said:


> Ash keepsake box



Very nice job!

The escutcheon and the suede lining can be quite tricky to execute well, but they both look exceptionally tidy.

=D>


----------



## transatlantic

I see both an alien and a horse in that ash box grain


----------



## MikeG.

Blackswanwood":2kfbveam said:


> Ash keepsake box......



Super impressive. Not something I would even attempt. My nerves would be in tatters!!


----------



## MikeG.

I made a wall. Does that count?


----------



## Woody2Shoes

Very nice too. What kind of footings and what kind of mortar did you use? In the chalky bit of Sussex I think those would have been knapped in the old days. Cheers, W2S


----------



## transatlantic

MikeG.":2bs1j4z0 said:


> I made a wall. Does that count?


Is it square?

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk


----------



## MikeG.

transatlantic":ofnshqzc said:


> .......Is it square?....



:lol: =D> 

Only if the house is*. The front wall is parallel to the front of the house, and the side wall is parallel to the side of the house.

*It isn't.


----------



## MikeG.

Woody2Shoes":vjze7hmu said:


> Very nice too. What kind of footings and what kind of mortar did you use? In the chalky bit of Sussex I think those would have been knapped in the old days. Cheers, W2S



I dug a shallow footing maybe 6 inches deep (to the clay layer) and laid concrete. The mortar is white sand, white cement, and lime in 6:1:1/2, gauged, and I used lots of crushed brick as a pozzolan. You don't find an awful lot of knapped flintwork around here. Laid to a line in courses, like this one, is the traditional way, but most new walls are done at random, stuffed in behind a pair of boards. It doesn't look quite so nice in my view.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Blackswanwood":3ge4lmzf said:


> Thanks Chris. Yes - it caught my eye and I bought it described as Olive Ash not really knowing whether it was Olive or Ash. I have subsequently learned curly grained Ash is Olive Ash!



Not the curly so much as the very dark heartwood.


----------



## Blackswanwood

MikeG.":19ytpspz said:


> I made a wall. Does that count?



Is it just stone right through the wall Mike?


----------



## MikeG.

Blackswanwood":2pg47hlj said:


> ......Is it just stone right through the wall Mike?



There are two fair faces, and rubble in the middle......mainly small flints, but also lots of bits of broken brick. The mortar takes up to 6 or 8 hours to set ready for pointing when used with flint alone, so brick speeds that up lots.


----------



## Woody2Shoes

MikeG.":34up9dkr said:


> ... Laid to a line in courses, like this one, is the traditional way, but most new walls are done at random, stuffed in behind a pair of boards. It doesn't look quite so nice in my view....]



Yes, I like the coursing - it reminds me of a Roman wall.


----------



## sammy.se

Simple Trellis, to cover up the neighbours ugly concrete wall:
















Posts of 2x1 treated batons were attached to the back of the fence panels. The new slats are PAR redwood, rounded over with a 4mm gap between then, finished in Bedec MSP. Those colours are used in other parts of the garden to it ties everything together.


----------



## Lons

Nice wall Mike, that's exactly how I'd have done it I much prefer working to a line as well. 
Reminds me of a sandstone rubble garden wall I built a few years ago 600mm deep at the base tapering towards the top, on a sloping site it started 1200mm high at one end but was 2500mm by the time we reached the end, the wall was a good 40m long and like yours faced both sides with all sorts of cr*p and mortar in the middle.
I can't remember exactly how much sand, cement and lime we used but it was tonnes and tonnes of the stuff.

BTW why is there an ostrich egg on top of the wall in the front of your pic? :wink:


----------



## Lons

Sammy that's a horrible block wall with poorly finished joints and the neighbours are quite likely to get damp penetration through that, I'm not surprised you wanted to cover it up, a big improvement.


----------



## MikeG.

Lons":2thn9avw said:


> Nice wall Mike.......



Thanks. That sounds an amazing wall you built.



> BTW why is there an ostrich egg on top of the wall in the front of your pic? :wink:



Well, you know, but I'll say anyway. Where the brickwork is toothed you need an appropriate sized flint to fit, so you pick out likely candidates as you work your way through the barrowful.


----------



## Bm101

sammy.se":1556bk10 said:


> Simple Trellis.


But effective. I would never have thought of grading colours or indeed using that range of colours but I love that. Maybe we tend to all be a bit brown when it comes to fencing and similar. In a small spot like that the corner looks much happier.
Job done.


----------



## Lons

MikeG.":38v5yhjz said:


> Thanks. That sounds an amazing wall you built.



That's not the way we thought by the time it was finished, I had another to do at the same property which was a retaining wall in a long slow curve which was much nicer to build as only about a metre high at maximum and one face as the inner was a gravel covered drive and constructed with HD concrete blocks.

The walls worth much simpler than yours Mike as if a bit of sandstone didn't fit a lump hammer soon sorted that and a bonus was all the bits I knocked off went in the middle.  



> Well, you know, but I'll say anyway. Where the brickwork is toothed you need an appropriate sized flint to fit, so you pick out likely candidates as you work your way through the barrowful.



This one would have fitted in well, a bit of Capetown tourist fodder wish I'd known as I could have sent it to you. I rather suspect you've seen these before. :wink: :lol:


----------



## MikeG.

Lons":3azoxhi8 said:


> ....... a bit of Capetown tourist fodder wish I'd known as I could have sent it to you. I rather suspect you've seen these before. :wink: :lol:



Outshoorn is the centre of the ostrich world. There are more there than you can poke a stick at. I guarantee that if you bought an egg in Cape Town it was actually farmed in Outshoorn.


----------



## Bm101

MikeG.":354tvgy2 said:


> Well, you know, but I'll say anyway. Where the brickwork is toothed you need an appropriate sized flint to fit, so you pick out likely candidates as you work your way through the barrowful.


That's not a skill that everyone can learn though Mike, even at that size. I did a few years dry stone walling in Snowdonia and stone selection for that was a dark art. Big round field stone mind. Not a flat surface in the pile. As you got better you'd not just look for the next stone but for 'chess' stones. (Never called them that at the time mind). Ones you'd need later in the wall. Gradually as the wall got built , piles would accumulate (easy at the back ) of suitable stones. Caps, throughs, hearts and corners. Whathaveyou. Some of the guys had been doing it on and off for years but couldn't see the stones and they knew it mind. It wasn't intelligence led. Couple of real bright guys on there would take a day to lay a wonky 2 metres. Bloke I worked with personally had a gift. Look at a 3 ton pile of stone and just pick the right one in seconds. Again and again. I was okay but he was uncanny. 
Didn't talk a lot mind and did a bit of boxing but stand up fella. Sort of bloke you'd want next to you if the pub kicked off.
One bright spring day we were working up in the literal middle of nowhere. A mountain road over the Carneddau range which is quiet by Snowdon standards. And it's bright and quiet, a _beautiful_ March morning, clarity, and Kev is about 60 metres over at the other end of the wall. Perfect job really sometimes.
And I look up at some point, and I'm gobsmacked. Because I haven't seen a car pass us in 3 days and as I live and breath here come 5-6 people in black suits. Walking over this mountain pass. It's so unusual I can't state that enough.
They looked like crows they were that far away. I can remember that.
I carried on working, they carried on walking. When they got to me it was a bit dissapointing to be honest.
*Hello! We're Jehova's Witnesses! *

OhhhFFS...

*Can we interest..*

No. Sorry. (Brain ticking into gear...)
...
But you know what.. Have you walked a long way?

*Yes/ Puffed out/etc????*

Well I'm a hopeless cause, I say, but maybe, just maybe... There's a_ REASON_ you're on this road today of all days.

**General inquisitive bemusement**

See that fella over there? I say. 
** 6 Heads swing in unison then nod**
Well he has had lots of issues. Troubling times. ( I probably nodded with the bobbing heads). I'm just saying he has talked of being lost and in need of something. I...I dunno...? What with the booze and the loss of his family in that tragic accident and the huge inheritence... 

The herd mentality was incredible. Insect. I was forgotton. They moved as a hive mind. Of one intention... A lost soul to gather up. A metaphysical raison d'être.

I put my club hammer down and quietly sat down to watch and laugh...
The poor f*ckers ghad no chance. I saw them approach him the keep approaching him as he was backing away, 
Then Human thermo nuclear detonation! Booom! I saw the Jehovas crumple and burn in the furious winds of Kev's Anger. They Ran away!

Meanwhile I'm laughing so hard my cheeks hurt.
Then... Oh wait ... is he coming over here?
Oooooohhh shiiiii... RUN!!!

Anyway. Good days.
Digressing down Memory Lane! 
Nice wall Mike. As always.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

As I learned it, the rule is: "If you pick a stone up, you have to use it." Concentrates the mind, somewhat. 

I have been known to cheat.


----------



## Bm101

Weeeelp. No.
I'm pretty sure that's boardgames mate.
You want a straight flush wall not a challenge.


----------



## Trevanion

If the stone does not fit, make it fit.


----------



## Lons

Love the story BM, made my night and I'm still laughing at the mental images.


----------



## Richard S

Trevanion":2szgu1x5 said:


> If the stone does not fit, make it fit.


Looks like the explosion blows his knob out of his pants!!


----------



## Dominik Pierog

I'm in process of restoring old wood/hobby lathe from 70's; quality of manufacturing is horrifying and previous owner use bead as anvil.... 
good-chuck-to-buy-in-eu-or-china-how-to-start-turning-t123066.html

So I made some parts for this lathe using this lathe... And I'm happy because because week by weeks lathe works better and quality of turning is improving. 
Gear change lever and drill chuck made from scarped shaft from bench drill.




Some parts for modification tailstock.





And improving in turning quality.








Fast polish




I'm so happy and this is very satisfying.


----------



## DavidEP

My wife has been nagging me for a tissue box in purple heart, so I finally got around to it. Inlay is Poplar in the shape of our wire haired fox terrier. Finished with 2 coats of OSMO Matt.


----------



## Blackswanwood

Very neat David


----------



## MarkDennehy

Small yew bowl for trinkets for Her Indoors. Some resin to fill an awkward knot and some texturing and gold buff-it. Yorkshire grit and microcrystalline wax to finish.


----------



## transatlantic

Made another plane. Quite boxy as Im still figuring out what shape I find most comfortable.








Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk


----------



## NickM

A box for a god son of mine (I envisaged it as a tool box, but he can put whatever he likes in it).

It's made from oak with some American black walnut "accents" (the handles and the pegs in the bread board ends). It's finished in Osmo Polyx satin.


----------



## AndyT

That turned out well! What did you do about painting the initials in the end? After the first coat of oil and before the second?


----------



## NickM

AndyT":29etfam0 said:


> That turned out well! What did you do about painting the initials in the end? After the first coat of oil and before the second?



Thanks. I'm really pleased with it. There are a few mistakes, some hidden better than others, but it's more than good enough for me.

I actually just painted on top of the oil (two coats of oil). I did a sample and the paint seems to stick well. I decided not to bother oiling over it.

We'll see what he makes of it when I give it to him this weekend. I expect he'll lose interest when he realises it doesn't need batteries! It's the sort of thing I would have shrugged my shoulders over as a child but would love to have now, so hopefully he will appreciate it one day even if he doesn't immediately.


----------



## MikeG.

Superb, Nick. Simple and elegant. =D> =D>


----------



## NickM

MikeG.":1fsqr1yt said:


> Superb, Nick. Simple and elegant. =D> =D>



Thanks Mike


----------



## Bm101

NickM":1kdv110e said:


> We'll see what he makes of it when I give it to him this weekend. I expect he'll lose interest when he realises it doesn't need batteries! It's the sort of thing I would have shrugged my shoulders over as a child but would love to have now, so hopefully he will appreciate it one day even if he doesn't immediately.


And that's it all in a nutshell isn't it?. Let's hope one day he has a moment where he thinks I could...(*insert future hopes here*) because of that beautiful box. 
Maybe he picks up a chisel one day instead of just the pc/tablet. 
Sowing seeds Nick... 8) 
Royal flush he ends up using it as a proper toolbox in a good few years. Great stuff.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

A little platter from a piece of elm from a rotten garden table my neighbour gave me for firewood. I salvaged only two pieces from the whole table, it was so rotten. She's a bit of a wood freak so I did it for her - she is delighted with it. The rim is done with liming wax and it's finished with Finishing Oil.






I had a very shallow mount so it flew off, fortunately not a lot of damage was done but I had to re turn it. I had to make up the "jig" to turn the dovetail off as it was just too large for my button jaws.
The little blocks are hot melt glued on, and the straps screwed through them. If the blocks don't come off cleanly it can be skimmed flat again for future use.


----------



## Bm101

Like the way the convex shape suits the elm grain there Phil. Very nifty and smart turning. 

And if she's ever going to a Wild West fancy dress party she can turn it upside down and wear it as a hat.


----------



## Dominik Pierog

I get back doll house. I designed everything and made it years ago for cousin.
Now she is too old and house need some renovation. I don't know why I not use thicker plywood back then.















Windows are opening.... also mosquito's


----------



## Dr Al

Today I replaced my plywood vice jaws with new ones made out of some spare hardwood:






Open:






Having the dog holes (with stainless steel fillers to keep sawdust out) in the jaws should give me some useful alternatives for clamping stuff.

I've been doing a lot of planing of wood lately. None of it has had any real purpose yet: I've just been practising my technique. I've mostly done it using a single stop and a bit of wood with a v cut into the end:











That works really well, but there have been a few times when I've wanted something a bit firmer. I can't fit a tail vice to my bench as the handle would get in the way of the roller door (I guess I could make it with a removable handle, but I can't be bothered with that). Hopefully the extra dog holes in the vice jaw will give me some alternative clamping methods and will tide me over until I get more workshop space.

For short stock, I can clamp it like this:






For wide stock (> 178 mm), I can use a dog on the end and clamp it side on:






For narrower stuff, I have to use a clamp of some sort as the end stop, but that's quite easy:






For really narrow stuff (< 76 mm) I'll need some sort of spacer to fill in the gap, but that shouldn't be too hard.

I need to make some wooden square things with round holes in to give a softer clamp "jaw" than the stainless steel dogs, but that hasn't made it to the top of the list yet.


----------



## WaldoBarnstormer

My last creation was a prototype that will hopefully get re-made in some oak for a craft brewer as a Christmas present.






It's called a beer flight or beer paddle. Basically a holding device so you can easily carry a few pint glasses at a time. This one was just knocked up with some scrap 18mm ply and a bit of wood dye... Perfectly functional however so he'll probably get this one as well.


----------



## El Barto

King post oak porch made this week. Three trusses sitting on posts.


----------



## Hornbeam

Small chest of drawers in burr/figured walnut withe black walnut lipping
Top drawer does shut flush it just came slightly open when I photographed
If people want I have quite a few photos during construction so could post these in the projects thread
Ian


----------



## John15

Very nice indeed Ian. Some construction photos would be very welcome.

John


----------



## MikeG.

We don't get enough threads on the construction of stuff like that, Hornbeam, so yes please to a proper blow-by-blow description & photos.


----------



## Hornbeam

I will try and do it this afternoon when I get back from a ride on the bike
Ian


----------



## MikeG.

Hornbeam":dz8rar11 said:


> I will try and do it this afternoon when I get back from a ride on the bike
> Ian



When you say "_*the*_ bike"...... :lol: :lol:


----------



## swb58

Trainee neophyte":2dv568lg said:


> As I learned it, the rule is: "If you pick a stone up, you have to use it." Concentrates the mind, somewhat.
> 
> I have been known to cheat.



I support this idea, as used by a mason I knew who was building walls a hundred years ago. Perhaps it depends on what stone you have to work with but with the irregular limestone we have around here you pick up a stone and you find a place for it. Otherwise you end up with a pile of rubbish on the floor or a wall which progresses in appearance from nice stone at one end to rubbish stone at the other..


----------



## Hornbeam

The most easily accessible one


----------



## Dominik Pierog

I restore and repair this saw years ago.
Tilt screw was bend, after repair centrifugal knob force lift the 5,5kW engine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c25ckAb6p2g


----------



## Petey83

Maple, cherry and Walnut cutting board


----------



## MarkDennehy

Ten year wedding anniversary gift is tin, right? 
(BTW, thanks for the rippled sycamore Custard, now I have to go find more!)
















And because I like being alive...


----------



## J-G

That looks to be as devious a means to hide a gift as I've become known to do Mark =D>


----------



## gregmcateer

That's good! =D>


----------



## J-G

Wanting to get to grips with a new (to me) CNC Router I've cracked the means to hand write G-Code to not only hollow out a 'pocket' but also to mill a thread - both internal & external. I also had to make the Thread Milling Cutter since I didn't fancy spending £180 ish for a commercial product :roll: 
Made from an off-cut of Obeche (which had previously been cut to an Octogon) with Walnut inserts top & bottom and an 8 segment African Blackwood ring - to allow fine sizing for alignment on screwing top & bottom together - it's 95mm A/F and 54mm high.


----------



## weekend_woodworker

I have been doing a bit of making in the garage, having acquired a few planes recently:






I made this rack to store the planes where they are easily accessible.

I also made simple shooting board never having had one before with an interchangeable fence for 45 degrees.











Now I need to get on with some projects and use them!


----------



## Bm101

MarkDennehy":1b4iadcs said:


> Ten year wedding anniversary gift is tin, right?
> (BTW, thanks for the rippled sycamore Custard, now I have to go find more!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And because I like being alive...


Legend.


----------



## NickM

MarkDennehy":1oqggbdx said:


> And because I like being alive...



You might be dead before she realises what's inside...


----------



## axe




----------



## MikeG.

Very nice ace. Shame about the mortar colour, though.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

pen number five.


----------



## Farm Labourer

A mitred sapele box from offcuts for the 16yo Princess next door, who is named after a flower. I drew the flower and imported it.


----------



## custard

MarkDennehy":vl5ryzh7 said:


> Ten year wedding anniversary gift is tin, right?
> (BTW, thanks for the rippled sycamore Custard, now I have to go find more!)



Very nice job Mark.

=D> 

If you can't find any Rippled Sycamore locally then drop me a PM.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

The silver coloured one is this morning's effort.


----------



## billw

Today's effort. Used up whatever scrap I could find to make this shooting board. Very helpful since the bench underneath is set up for right handed work, and this board allows me to work left handed. The mitre piece is removable, and I'm in the process of building a 45 degree ramp which will also just slot on. 

The scrappy looking piece at the front needs grooves doing so it will run on the two lines and act as a movable support for whatever's being worked on.


----------



## NickM

I decided I needed a tool cabinet so I have more space on my bench and in the workshop generally. I need to make holders for various tools and fettle the doors a bit as they don't line up very well at the moment. (Click on the photos for better quality.)


----------



## MikeG.

Very nice Nick....but that's the easy bit. The work starts with making all the tool supports.


----------



## NickM

I know! The plane tote was hard enough. I don't need to rush to do that as I can probably fit most of the tools in by just putting them on the shelves at the moment.

Chisel racks will probably be the first to do.


----------



## Blackswanwood

That looks great NickM - something I have been meaning to do for ages.


----------



## thick_mike

I love crusty bread , but the crumbs go everywhere when I cut it, so I decided to make a breadboard that catches the crumbs as I cut the bread. Beech with a beech faced ply base. The grid is jointed using half lap joints. The grid lifts out for emptying the crumbs.


----------



## billw

Genius idea Mike! Crusty bread is great but it takes 10 seconds to eat and 5 minutes to clean up the mess.


----------



## Lazurus

Been playing with resin and Burrs


----------



## Doug B

More to try out the new forum layout & see if I can get it to work  10 Ash settee legs turned Saturday afternoon for a furniture maker






Well that’s a bonus, a portrait photo that displays in the correct orientation


----------



## Suffolkboy

thick_mike said:


> I love crusty bread , but the crumbs go everywhere when I cut it, so I decided to make a breadboard that catches the crumbs as I cut the bread. Beech with a beech faced ply base. The grid is jointed using half lap joints. The grid lifts out for emptying the crumbs.



Not so thick Mike. 

That's a great idea. 

I'm going to steal it BTW.


----------



## thick_mike

Suffolkboy said:


> Not so thick Mike.
> 
> That's a great idea.
> 
> I'm going to steal it BTW.


I can report that it works a charm too. I’m really pleased with it.


----------



## Droogs

Very nice Lazarus, though I did think the last one was an avacado at first.


----------



## Roland

Klein style headless guitar. The body is shelf off cuts glued together, I presume sapel.


----------



## thick_mike

Roland said:


> Klein style headless guitar. The body is shelf off cuts glued together, I presume sapel.


It would be nice to see some more photos of this. Control cavity on the back? Pickups look interesting too


----------



## Dr Al

Finished my first "proper" woodworking project today:






More details in the thread all about it.


----------



## MikeG.

That's a first-ever project, folks. Dr Al deserves a huge pat of the back.


----------



## thetyreman

that's really good for a first table dr Al, I would have made the aprons a bit wider, but part of that could be the camera angle, cheers, Ben.


----------



## Blackswanwood

Cherry and Birds Eye Maple jewellery box.

Not the last thing I made but I got a good old fashioned letter today from the person I made this box for saying how much she likes it and asking if I could make one for her daughter


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Blackswanwood said:


> Cherry and Birds Eye Maple jewellery box.
> 
> Not the last thing I made but I got a good old fashioned letter today from the person I made this box for saying how much she likes it and asking if I could make one for her daughter
> 
> 
> View attachment 90265
> View attachment 90266
> View attachment 90267


That's pretty!


----------



## Roland

thick_mike said:


> It would be nice to see some more photos of this. Control cavity on the back? Pickups look interesting too


Mike. There are two control cavities, one behind the switch and the other behind the volume and tone. Cavities and covers are cut with the same template, so they fit exactly. Covers are held in place with neodymium magnets, which are a lot neater than screws. There’s a build thread here. I’ve added pictures of the cavities and covers just for you.


----------



## thick_mike

Roland said:


> Mike. There are two control cavities, one behind the switch and the other behind the volume and tone. Cavities and covers are cut with the same template, so they fit exactly. Covers are held in place with neodymium magnets, which are a lot neater than screws. There’s a build thread here. I’ve added pictures of the cavities and covers just for you.


Definitely need to switch that cross grained control panel 

Been ages since I read a build thread on a guitar. It’s how I started getting interested in woodwork; reading AJCoholic‘s threads over on Harmony Central EG years back (haven’t been on there for years either). Might get myself distracted and disappear down that rabbit hole for a while soon.


----------



## Blackswanwood

Watch box using figured sycamore, birds eye maple veneer, king wood inlay and emerald green pig suede lining


----------



## MikeG.

What's king wood?


----------



## thick_mike

MikeG. said:


> What's king wood?


It’s wood that you drop on your toe!


----------



## Blackswanwood

MikeG. said:


> What's king wood?



I need to learn how to turn autocorrect off!

Kingwood aka Dalbergia cearensis!


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

My wood lathe chuck key is much too short for turning larger items, or when using the cole jaws, so decided to get some metal lathe practice and made a new longer chuck key. I know brass isnt the most durable of materials for this purpose, but it should hold up fine.


----------



## Fitzroy

Along with my big wooden screw were a couple of old hand screw clamps. They were very corroded and unmovable. Managed to get one moving with penetrating oil, time, and perseverance. The other I had to cut the jaws to get the nuts exposed to an ample dose of heat.

Original jaws on the one I got moving seem to be some fine grained hardwood, looks like the mahogany I repurposed from an old wardrobe. New jaws are from a piece of DougFir, not sure it’s hard enough as I hear creaking when I clamp the up tight.

Interestingly the screw bar is 1/2” acme lead screw, which allows fast opening and closing and lots of clamping force.






Fitz


----------



## NickVanBeest

Almost done creating a workbench for my 2.7 x 1.8 meter shed...


----------



## MikeG.

That is the dinkiest little thing!  

A summer-only workshop, I reckon.


----------



## Retired

Hi,

A bit different but the last thing I made is a mower petrol tank from aluminium. I'd fully restored a Suffolk Colt petrol mower only to find the petrol tank to leak which was highly frustrating. It's an awful long story but I've arc welded steel for over 55 years but never attempted to weld aluminium so I was on a ballistic learning curve.

My lovely wife generously bought me a new Parweld TIG welder and I had to gather all the items needed to get me welding with it; Pure Argon gas proved expensive at first but then I opened a BOC account and now use high pressure cylinders; filler rods; tungstens and a £400 top of the range welding helmet and I was ready to go.

crystal2.0 - You won’t believe your eyes

TIG welding aluminium isn't easy to learn as I found out but with determination I completed the new tank including my first attempt at panel beating. I also made a second tank involving using my Graduate lathe for metal spinning.

Kind regards, Colin.







The new tank underway.






The new tank mounting plate.






Ready to be welded.






Original tank top right. New streamlined tank bottom and a second tank just for fun.






Gathering equipment.






Lots and lots of practice welds; I used three Hobbyweld Pure Argon cylinders before opening the BOC account and used two BOC cylinders now I have a third full BOC cylinder; not a cheap hobby by any means but highly interesting and a useful skill to have.






I made a pair of "Third hands" copying from YouTube; these are just wonderful and so useful for many projects.






First make every mistake possible but never give up; this is 4mm thick aluminium and it becomes increasingly difficult on thinner aluminium. This mower tank must be the most expensive tank ever it costing around £1,600 setting up TIG and learning how to use it. As I say it's a bit different.






I only bought the mower as a restoration project; I sold it a few days ago to a delighted new owner. I enjoy pottering around in my workshop.


----------



## Davejo

I have made 2 windmills in recent times, the second on was just a few weeks ago. The reason for the second one was because the original plans told me to use ply. After giving it 3 coats of exterior wood paint it then went through the recent winter and decided to delaminate and started to fall apart on the sails and other areas. I adapted the first one and added a motor that ran off a solar panel, but it was very difficult to get a really quiet motor and in the end it was disconnected.

As the wife liked the windmill so much I decided to build version 2. This is made completely out of pine and also have 3 coats of paint on it, this time no motor and as you will see in the photo I also changed the design slightly as the location of the windmill no one could see the back of it so instead of building the whole rear section I just adapted some of the design to have the fan tail is up higher.

If anyone wants to see the building of them it's on my website under 'Dave's Photos/My Hobby Photos'


----------



## Cordy

Builder neighbour gave me a couple of white 








poles, would have gone to the tip otherwise
Made this planter, routed the sides which are 37 mm thick
Put some Radish and Rocket seeds in; late in the season, but may grow


----------



## Davejo

Last week I made my wife a cotton reel rack for her sewing room. Picked all the timber up in the morning and fixed on the wall in the evening.


----------



## Droogs

well done on having the patience to make one. I always find drilling sooooo many holes a complete mind numbing drag


----------



## Davejo

Droogs said:


> well done on having the patience to make one. I always find drilling sooooo many holes a complete mind numbing drag


Thanks Droogs


----------



## pulleyt

A couple of months ago I made a (tensegrity) stand which has got a lot of interest locally. So, I batched out a few more using various scraps of timber from the wood store. 






The problem is that I've thought of improvements in the production process so I may have to do some more. Ah well, the gift giving season will be here before we know it - I just hope the family are as fascinated by them as I am


----------



## Davejo

That's very clever, I like that


----------



## billw

Boring stuff again - but I made a new shooting board (my last one was only a few pages back) complete with two 45 degree jigs, and a secondary fence for larger stock. The three additional fences all sit on the smaller one, snugly despite the appearance that I've cut them badly! I spent far too long checking 45 and 90 degree angles, but at least I can get on with making stuff now...... well more jigs actually.


----------



## robgul

Console table with drawer - made from 18mm birch ply with a variety of joints - rebated, pocket hole and biscuit. Obviously purchased the hairpin legs (and drawer runners) that match the dining table I made a few weeks ago. It's just waiting for another application of the finishing oil


----------



## RickG

Not as complex as some of the things posted here by others, but this was something I had a request for recently. My nephew is a vicar and he and his wife wanted a cross as a wedding gift.


----------



## Bacms

The 3 basic boxes from Andrew Crawford book. I doubled the dimensions of the Walnut one and next time remind me to never apply finish inside the groove of a lid


----------



## wood_i_rather

Not yet made, but close to finish


----------



## Sachakins

A busy week for me


----------



## Davejo

Another day and another new project, although this will be it for a while as I only finished it this morning. This time it is a bird box with a difference. I got some logs to make my wife a fairy door...and while I was doing that I thought about creating a bird box from what was left over and here it is. Took longer than I thought to cut out the middle and the pillar drill and bit only went in so far and it was burning the wood also, so I had to just use a chisel to finish it off. More photos as usual on my website.


----------



## _lotusbleu

Not sure if people are so interested in seeing fitted cabinets - but this is my first completed fit since lock down has eased. Bit of a mammoth! Also made the ladder.


----------



## RattyVulcan

Simple occasional table


----------



## Coyote

Alcove unit/shelves for a growing book collection. Must have passed my wifes stringent QA test as I've been asked for a matching one on the other side.


----------



## Retired

Hi,

Yesterday and today I've made some sweat; I've just come out of the garden after a session rotavating, Doing anything even standing upright on our steep valley side is difficult. I'm getting the meadow ready for next year. 

Kind regards, Colin.





The weather made a mess of the wildflower meadow flattening lots of the flowers.





My first attempt at strimming using my new Hyundai 52cc strimmer/brush cutter; a job I really enjoyed doing yesterday afternoon in the sunshine.





I've just finished rotavating; I'll rotavate at least two more times before broadcasting new wildflower seeds next springtime.





First pass with the rotavator; it sure is tiring working on the slope with a rotavator wanting to head to the valley bottom.





Horse shoes are considered lucky but not by me; this one jammed the rotavator tines. I'm 73 today and with lots of prezzies and time in the garden what a lovely day. Eventually I'll achieve my dream of quality workshop time but in the meantime I'll dream on.


----------



## Dovetail

Davejo said:


> Last week I made my wife a cotton reel rack for her sewing room. Picked all the timber up in the morning and fixed on the wall in the evening.



From someone with many spools of thread, I really appreciate this build. You're wife is lucky that you can build that for her.


----------



## Droogs

@Retired Many happy returns, I hope you are having a great birthday. From one birthday boy (52) to another


----------



## Bm101

Happy birthday both!


----------



## NickDReed

I suppose I didn't technically "make" it. But I made it work again.


----------



## Farm Labourer

Iroko off-cuts with an oak inlay for my sister's pooch.


----------



## MikeG.

Complete with slobber-proof finish?


----------



## Farm Labourer

MikeG. said:


> Complete with slobber-proof finish?


Yep - two coats of Osmo Poly X


----------



## MikeG.

Let us know how that lasts in that rather testing environment. I've not had the best of luck with it.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

@Retired 

I despise rotavating, to the extent that I now have a no dig garden. My rotavator currently has a piece of rebar wrapped around the tines - it can stay there for a while longer; no rush to sort it out just yet.

I actually have it in mind to remove the engine and put it on a bandsaw mill - just need to make the mill first. Kudos to you for doing an appalling task with good humour.


----------



## billw

So today I experienced catch-22. I'm making a jig to hold pieces for marking out dovetails, to ensure they're square and level to each other. However, the jig is made using dovetails, which I couldn't mark out perfectly because.....you get the idea.






So basically the reason it doesn't look square is because it's being held square and my dovetails (and the two bits of wood) were not perfectly aligned. Not a bad attempt though. Just got to fit a fence to it now.


----------



## MikeG.

Hey, they're not too shabby, Bill.


----------



## Trevanion

Spent all evening on my dovetailing skills, what do you guys think so far?


----------



## Droogs

Trevanion said:


> Spent all evening on my dovetailing skills, what do you guys think so far?


I'd say you're getting better matey, keep at it. did you do them on your new super expensive electrogizmo?


----------



## custard

Trevanion said:


> Spent all evening on my dovetailing skills, what do you guys think so far?



Smashing job! The great thing about dovetails is that even with the odd gap they are still unbelievably strong joints. In that respect they're way better than say mortice and tenons, which need to be pretty snug to be even adequately strong.


----------



## custard

billw said:


> Not a bad attempt though.



I completely agree, not bad at all!


----------



## Trevanion

custard said:


> Smashing job!



I'm not sure if that's a _*very*_ sly pun or not Custard 



custard said:


> The great thing about dovetails is that even with the odd gap they are still unbelievably strong joints.



I reckon that's why there's still so many turn of the century chests of drawers kicking about in perfect condition and very few chairs and tables! Of course, a chair tends to get used a lot more than a set of drawers.



Droogs said:


> I'd say you're getting better matey, keep at it. did you do them on your new super expensive electrogizmo?



The Turbo-Dovetailer 5000! I bought it off this guy:


----------



## billw

Trevanion said:


> Spent all evening on my dovetailing skills, what do you guys think so far?



Let down by the grain pattern, otherwise I’d be pleased with those.


----------



## Just4Fun

billw said:


> I'm making a jig to hold pieces for marking out dovetails, to ensure they're square and level to each other....
> Not a bad attempt though. Just got to fit a fence to it now.


I have just done the same thing, and I am at the same stage as you.

How do you plan to make the fence? I intend to put a fence on both surfaces, one to hold the tails board and one to hold the pins board. I will offset the two fences by one saw kerf so I can use Rob Cosman's method of marking the pins board from the tails board before cutting out the waste from the tails board. However, that will make the jig dedicated to one particular saw so I have been reluctant to do that as yet. I don't have a dovetail saw so I'm not sure which of my various unsuitable saws I should commit to.
Here is my effort so far:


----------



## billw

Just4Fun said:


> I have just done the same thing, and I am at the same stage as you.
> 
> How do you plan to make the fence? I intend to put a fence on both surfaces, one to hold the tails board and one to hold the pins board. I will offset the two fences by one saw kerf so I can use Rob Cosman's method of marking the pins board from the tails board before cutting out the waste from the tails board. However, that will make the jig dedicated to one particular saw so I have been reluctant to do that as yet. I don't have a dovetail saw so I'm not sure which of my various unsuitable saws I should commit to.



I've just cut the fence, and was going to mitre it and glue it up so I can make sure it's perfectly flat, and then attach it to the board. The offsetting thing is interesting, and I only have one saw so I might investigate that particular idea before I go any further.


----------



## Dr Al

Today I (almost) finished making a bird box. I made it more for practising techniques (mostly power tool ones this time) than because we particularly needed a bird box, hence the over-done joinery and the possibly unnecessary roof covering.

Made from oak (joined from thin bits into thicker bits) with the roof coated in some lead flashing that came off my roof a few years ago and which I battered flat and then hit repeatedly with a ball peen hammer to give it a dappled appearance. The roof (in three pieces) is currently only held on with gravity as I haven't decided how I'll attach it yet. For scale, the hole is sparrow sized (32 mm) and the fingers of the joints are 9 mm.











The lead still needs trimming at the back and fixing in some way yet to be determined.

The roof has a couple of blocks of wood spaced to match the internal dimensions of the bird box and is held on with a single stainless screw from behind so it can be taken off for cleaning if/when required:


----------



## custard

Just4Fun said:


> I will offset the two fences by one saw kerf so I can use Rob Cosman's method of marking the pins board from the tails board before cutting out the waste from the tails board.



You'll regret it if you do. A better approach is to shim one of the fences, infinitely adjustable and totally reversible if you want to cut your dovetails old school.


----------



## custard

Dr Al said:


> Today I (almost) finished making a bird box.



Congratulations on a very clean and professional looking job, those finger joints are impeccable!


----------



## MikeG.

Dr Al said:


> Today I (almost) finished making a bird box.......



That looks lovely. Maybe avoid the short grain thing with the box joints if you replicate this in a piece of furniture.....

You don't really have enough lap on the lead to pin the top edges of the lower sheets with clout nails, so I suggest you use beads of silicon under it all (or a construction adhesive........eg No Nails), taking great care to keep it off the show surface of the lead. If any squeezes out let it dry before you touch it, then cut it away with a knife. Don't try and clean up before it sets.

There's many an old roofer spinning in their graves at the thought of using anything but wood to work lead. Certainly never do that on a proper roof! 

Anyway, looks great, and I hope it gets a resident next spring.


----------



## Trevanion

Second attempt tonight, much better I reckon! The odd gap _here and there_ will be filled with sawdust and glue and it will become invisible.


----------



## TheBeeBoyKid

A little project between me and my bro. I have a tiny little single garage workshop and starting to turn out some nice bits and pieces. Don’t know if multi-material is a sacrilege here?


----------



## billw

TheBeeBoyKid said:


> A little project between me and my bro. I have a tiny little single garage workshop and starting to turn out some nice bits and pieces. Don’t know if multi-material is a sacrilege here?



Really like that! Had a similar-ish idea for doing legs that are at an angle so it's interesting to see how the concept pans out in real life.


----------



## TheBeeBoyKid

billw said:


> Really like that! Had a similar-ish idea for doing legs that are at an angle so it's interesting to see how the concept pans out in real life.


Cheers!
Yeah, my bro welded the legs up; it’s all 45’s. Quite simple, you just need the right dimensions of box section so everything fits inside everything else nicely.


----------



## MikeG.

TheBeeBoyKid said:


> .......... Don’t know if multi-material is a sacrilege here?



Not at all! This is UK Workshop, not UK Woodworking. 

The framing is a tad heavy for me, but it's a fun design and looks beautifully finished.


----------



## MikeG.

Trevanion said:


> Second attempt tonight, much better I reckon! The odd gap _here and there_ will be filled with sawdust and glue and it will become invisible.


Where do you keep finding these photos?


----------



## Droogs

Michael , are you insinuating that the mighty  may be usurping someone else's work as his own? Surely these pictures have been taken within the last 24 hours using his electrogizmo dovetailer.


----------



## Trevanion

MikeG. said:


> Where do you keep finding these photos?


 
How dare you insinuate that this isn't my own work!


----------



## Droogs

Trevanion said:


> How dare you insinuate that this isn't my own work!


I like the new hair cut Trevanion


----------



## El Barto

Wanted a little bevel gauge so made this, inspired by The Art Of Boatbuilding's one.






Quite pleased with it in the end!


----------



## MikeG.

Did you make the knurled nut?


----------



## Droogs

That's smashing barto


----------



## seaco

Bit of art for our walls.


----------



## MikeG.

Very clever.


----------



## silz

A


----------



## Paul200

A couple of Oak boxes I finished recently. They came from the same tree so it would be nice if they sold as a pair.


----------



## Droogs

sebg said:


> View attachment 91081
> 
> 
> Bed with full width drawer on castors, out of birch plywood (although the mattress base is MDF)


looks comfy, can i ask how you did the corners, are they just glued or are there mechanical fixings and is it just the camera lens or are the sides slightly tapered? If they are well done it is a hard thing to do compund jouints


----------



## Fitzroy

I bought a box of old saws about 5 years back, it was an impulse purchase knowing nothing about saws. Having received them most had lots of bends and waves in the saw plate that I could not remedy so they were binned. There was one old Diston that was straight but the teeth were terrible, so I filed the plate smooth and it went on a shelf.

in my recent gumtree box of goodies was an old, dirty, knackered saw vice. After attacking it with a sander, and planing the jaws flat, it’s functional. Not pretty, but functional. Oh now where did I put that saw plate!



I I marked up a scrap piece of work with marks every 1/8th inch, clamped the scrap and plate in the vice and used a hacksaw to cut slots at the marks. The teeth were then filed a standard rip cut, keeping it simple as it’s only my second ever saw sharpening. I used a eclipse saw set to set the teeth.





Happy in general with the outcome, and it cuts straight, which is nice. However, as I set the teeth I heard at least half a dozen ‘snaps’ and then one tooth broke off. I set the eclipse on 10 which I though would be ok. Also some of my teeth spacing is not bob on. A learning curve, but a fun one!




The handle was oddly shaped and my knuckles caught on it in use so it got modified with a coping saw and a rasp. 




A fun experience and given me the confidence to look out for other saws to refurb.
F.


----------



## threedee

Engraved some cork coasters and needed to put em in something neat, so, came up with design for asda hex coaster box. No glue, all friction fit.


----------



## ey_tony

I'm currently building a Catio for my two BSHs if the weather actually ameliorates long enough to get it finished but here's my last finished serious project.

I originally wanted both a potting shed and a storage shed but didn't really have room in my garden for both so I combined them and made this one which I have to say is in now constant use and was worth the effort to build. The reproduction Victorian corner cupboard in distal end of the shed was a project I started over well over 25 years ago but never ever got around to glazing so it languished in my garage unfinished until I finally made use of it though it's still not glazed.. I'm overwhelmed with tomatoes and cucumbers right now but that's not a bad thing.


----------



## TheBeeBoyKid

MikeG. said:


> Not at all! This is UK Workshop, not UK Woodworking.
> 
> The framing is a tad heavy for me, but it's a fun design and looks beautifully finished.



You know what, that was one of my thoughts on completion, the legs look a bit chunky for the top. Also the refinement on the finish of the legs doesn’t quite match the top...
My brother does structural fabricating so everything has to be big!!!


----------



## MikeG.

Fitzroy said:


> I bought a box of old saws .......



Excellent, well done. It's a pity about the broken teeth. You were just unlucky, I think. I've never had a tooth break. I hope you finished off that handle and gave it a coat of something.....otherwise, that's your job for this morning!!


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Fitzroy said:


> I bought a box of old saws about 5 years back, it was an impulse purchase knowing nothing about saws. Having received them most had lots of bends and waves in the saw plate that I could not remedy so they were binned. There was one old Diston that was straight but the teeth were terrible, so I filed the plate smooth and it went on a shelf.
> 
> in my recent gumtree box of goodies was an old, dirty, knackered saw vice. After attacking it with a sander, and planing the jaws flat, it’s functional. Not pretty, but functional. Oh now where did I put that saw plate!
> View attachment 91096
> I I marked up a scrap piece of work with marks every 1/8th inch, clamped the scrap and plate in the vice and used a hacksaw to cut slots at the marks. The teeth were then filed a standard rip cut, keeping it simple as it’s only my second ever saw sharpening. I used a eclipse saw set to set the teeth.
> 
> View attachment 91098
> 
> Happy in general with the outcome, and it cuts straight, which is nice. However, as I set the teeth I heard at least half a dozen ‘snaps’ and then one tooth broke off. I set the eclipse on 10 which I though would be ok. Also some of my teeth spacing is not bob on. A learning curve, but a fun one!
> View attachment 91099
> 
> The handle was oddly shaped and my knuckles caught on it in use so it got modified with a coping saw and a rasp.
> View attachment 91101
> 
> A fun experience and given me the confidence to look out for other saws to refurb.
> F.


This might be useful - http://norsewoodsmith.com/files/file/saw-filing-templates.pdf


----------



## Droogs

@ey_tony that is a rather fetching shed, I like the design. If i can ask what is a catio?


----------



## ey_tony

Droogs said:


> @ey_tony that is a rather fetching shed, I like the design. If i can ask what is a catio?



You can indeed ask and my please in answering...a Catio is a commonly used term for a secure framed space often placed on a patio (flagged area usually ) to prevent house cats ( those which don't go outdoors) escaping/running off.

I'm building a modular version so that I can add to it as I go along. If I get the guttering up later today I'll post a couple of pics of the work in progress.


----------



## Droogs

cheers, never heard of that before


----------



## El Barto

MikeG. said:


> Did you make the knurled nut?



Unfortunately not


----------



## Woody2Shoes

Dr Al said:


> Today I (almost) finished making a bird box. I made it more for practising techniques (mostly power tool ones this time) than because we particularly needed a bird box, hence the over-done joinery and the possibly unnecessary roof covering.
> 
> Made from oak (joined from thin bits into thicker bits) with the roof coated in some lead flashing that came off my roof a few years ago and which I battered flat and then hit repeatedly with a ball peen hammer to give it a dappled appearance. The roof (in three pieces) is currently only held on with gravity as I haven't decided how I'll attach it yet. For scale, the hole is sparrow sized (32 mm) and the fingers of the joints are 9 mm.
> 
> View attachment 91016
> 
> 
> View attachment 91017
> 
> 
> The lead still needs trimming at the back and fixing in some way yet to be determined.
> 
> The roof has a couple of blocks of wood spaced to match the internal dimensions of the bird box and is held on with a single stainless screw from behind so it can be taken off for cleaning if/when required:
> 
> View attachment 91018


Very nice! I'd use copper (or zinc) clout nails (horizontally into the "verge") to fix the lead. I'd wipe on BLO to stop the lead staining as well. Cheers, W2S


----------



## Blister

Woody2Shoes said:


> Very nice! I'd use copper (or zinc) clout nails (horizontally into the "verge") to fix the lead. I'd wipe on BLO to stop the lead staining as well. Cheers, W2S



Blimey that's the poshest bird box I have seen , Just one thing , Should it have a small dowel just in front of the entry hole ? for Mr or Mrs bird to land on before entering their new home ,
I know nothing about bird boxes


----------



## Tim Nott

This is the last thing I made, or rather one of eight. The overall design was from FWW, but the backs were my own design, I've only ever made one indoor chair before, and that was very uncomfortable. These, thankfully are comfortable. Ash finished with beeswax and linseed oil. Flat reed seats - the first one took a day to weave, but got it down to four hours on number eight.


----------



## Blister

Tim Nott said:


> This is the last thing I made, or rather one of eight. The overall design was from FWW, but the backs were my own design, I've only ever made one indoor chair before, and that was very uncomfortable. These, thankfully are comfortable. Ash finished with beeswax and linseed oil. Flat reed seats - the first one took a day to weave, but got it down to four hours on number eight.View attachment 91153



Wow that's lovely , NO way I could do anything like that ,


----------



## artie

Today I solved a problem I've had for more than a year.
I bought new overalls and didn't discover until I got home that there was no pencil pocket.
So after a long time of lost pencils, misplaced pencils and dropped pencils, I came up with this solution, which keeps my pencil where I want it at the expense of an old pocket knife.

I'm open to hear better ideas.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Blister said:


> Blimey that's the poshest bird box I have seen , Just one thing , Should it have a small dowel just in front of the entry hole ? for Mr or Mrs bird to land on before entering their new home ,
> I know nothing about bird boxes


No. It's a perch for predators.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I found the solution for lost pencils - keep them everywhere. I cleaned my bench off one day and found forty one .......... eleven tapes and seven Stanley knives.


----------



## Coyote

Blister said:


> Should it have a small dowel just in front of the entry hole ? for Mr or Mrs bird to land on before entering their new home ,



Apparently not as it allows predators to stick their heads in and snap up the chicks. I made that mistake when I made a couple for my kids to "decorate" at the start of lockdown and had to trim flush after a bit of post construction research.


----------



## Blister

artie said:


> Today I solved a problem I've had for more than a year.
> I bought new overalls and didn't discover until I got home that there was no pencil pocket.
> So after a long time of lost pencils, misplaced pencils and dropped pencils, I came up with this solution, which keeps my pencil where I want it at the expense of an old pocket knife.
> 
> *I'm open to hear better ideas.*



Stick it behind your ear ?


----------



## artie

Blister said:


> Stick it behind your ear ?


Unfortunately, ears too big. Not too bad in winter, I can lodge it between cap and barnett, but in summer when I expose the solar panel it gets dislodged easily.


----------



## rdesign

Made this little tool tidy for my cocktail kit. Really nice to get back into the shop and get lost in making again. Turned out nice. Walnut with danish oil finish


----------



## Just4Fun

Phil Pascoe said:


> I found the solution for lost pencils - keep them evrywhere.


Quite the opposite with me. If I have 20 pencils I can never find one. If I have just 1 pencil I always know exactly where it is.


----------



## artie

Just4Fun said:


> Quite the opposite with me. If I have 20 pencils I can never find one. If I have just 1 pencil I always know exactly where it is.


Same here, I just want one, in my breast pocket. no problem.


----------



## MikeG.

Your workshop shirts have breast pockets? Wow, they're somewhat posher than mine......


----------



## Droogs

wow, you have workshop shirts?


----------



## MikeG.

Yeah, they're knackered old shirts that have served 20 years or more as ordinary shirts. Fit for the workshop or gardening only.


----------



## artie

MikeG. said:


> Your workshop shirts have breast pockets? Wow, they're somewhat posher than mine......


You're making assumptions again.


----------



## Adam Pinson

siggy_7 said:


> Spent the last couple of weekends putting this patio table together to keep SWMBO happy. Hopefully that gives me some breathing space to get on with what I want to!


Great tint colour


----------



## robgul

Blister said:


> Stick it behind your ear ?



That reminds me of a time when I was building a holiday cottage where we already had bookings cued up even before the walls were half built, so a bit of pressure - one day I was doing a load of timber related stuff late into the night and was quite exhausted - sat on the edge of the bed to take my socks off, fell backwards asleep and woke up in the morning still with a pencil behind my ear


----------



## Trevanion

Just4Fun said:


> Quite the opposite with me. If I have 20 pencils I can never find one. If I have just 1 pencil I always know exactly where it is.



I'm with Phil here, I'm never more than a foot away from a pencil at any given time as they're literally everywhere, on the machines, on the floor, in the cupboards and cabinets, in the dust extractor, all over the bench.

Lurker could fill his pockets and I'd still have more than enough to survive, that's how many I have!


----------



## Kevin mc veigh

Four patio chairs made from spruce , dyed with rustins dark oak wood dye and sealed with wipe in spar varnish


----------



## thetyreman

I have finally finished this marathon project after over 6 months on and off, I had a few things to do in between, it's a quadratic diffuser built for my recording studio to go on the back wall, it was good for improving my mitred dovetail skills and first proper project with them in, bear in mind every single joint is cut by hand, I did use a bandsaw for cutting the vertical slats which were then handplaned down to final thickness, this project has been very testing, almost gave up a few times, hope you like it, definitely the best thing I've made yet, and hoping to make another two as well.


----------



## Harken in Wood




----------



## Harken in Wood

Life’s a beech bowl


----------



## Hornbeam

Harken in Wood said:


> Life’s a beech bowl


Life really is a beech bowl. My cat relaxing in a part turned bowl. Split needs to be epoxy filled and then finished


----------



## MikeG.

Hornbeam said:


> .........My cat needs to be epoxy filled and then finished.



I think you'll find that if you epoxy fill it, it will be finished. I'd wear welding gloves for the job, personally.


----------



## thick_mike

thetyreman said:


> I have finally finished this marathon project after over 6 months on and off, I had a few things to do in between, it's a quadratic diffuser built for my recording studio to go on the back wall, it was good for improving my mitred dovetail skills and first proper project with them in, bear in mind every single joint is cut by hand, I did use a bandsaw for cutting the vertical slats which were then handplaned down to final thickness, this project has been very testing, almost gave up a few times, hope you like it, definitely the best thing I've made yet, and hoping to make another two as well.
> 
> View attachment 91246



Really interesting, could you tell us a bit about the acoustic design? One of the best acoustic improvements I made to my stereo was when I put my elliptical shelves on the wall behind my settee and opposite my speakers. I assumed it was because they diffused the sound waves.

Edit - just noticed you have a separate thread, great stuff.


----------



## thetyreman

thick_mike said:


> Really interesting, could you tell us a bit about the acoustic design? One of the best acoustic improvements I made to my stereo was when I put my elliptical shelves on the wall behind my settee and opposite my speakers. I assumed it was because they diffused the sound waves.



yes I seem to remember I think you did those shelves out of plywood? it makes sense that it will improve the sound. I am making the backwall a giant diffuser basically, this is one of three it will really help the sound in my room, both recording and producing music, note how if you study the pattern of this diffuser how it's perfectly symmetrical, the same as your shelves that's a key part of diffusion and why your shelves diffuse sound effectively, but these diffusers use prime number theory and you design them to work in a specific frequency range.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

A lot of nice work being done recently 

I just finished making this pair of computer monitor stands for me to use in work...











I’ve also done a little WIP here... 

WIP - A pair of computer monitors - sculpted Walnut legs and Yew top


----------



## Doug71

I always enjoy seeing what people have been making so I am going to try and get in the habit of posting more stuff I make. As I just do general joinery I'm afraid there won't be many exotic hardwoods or hand tools used but it is all made by me in my workshop which is what counts. I do always get the customers permission before posting any pics.

Today I finished off an understair cupboard I started before lockdown, there are drawers and hanging space behind the doors, customer sorting the painting.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Here are the monitor stands in their new home to perk me up when work get's stressful


----------



## Garno

I really do like those.


----------



## Blister

Have the HSE department seen them


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Blister said:


> Have the HSE department seen them



Not to worry, I wear full PPE at my desk just in case the stands explode


----------



## Woodmouse

This is my first piece of furniture and is a present for a friend:

Painted tulip wood and oiled oak.

Drawer to be fitted once plumbers have been in.


----------



## MikeG.

Well done Woodmouse. That's excellent. I'll be keeping an eye on how nicely the drawer fits, though, so make sure you get it spot on!


----------



## Bm101

Oh ma Lord. I have gone and caught bath and sink envy. What TF is happening to me!?? 
*Dammit man you're a windowcleaner! Snap out of it you fool! The next step is listening to your Mrs!
*Slaps own face.


----------



## Bm101

*RESISTS URGE TO BUY FLAKE*


----------



## Woody2Shoes

Blister said:


> Blimey that's the poshest bird box I have seen , Just one thing , Should it have a small dowel just in front of the entry hole ? for Mr or Mrs bird to land on before entering their new home ,
> I know nothing about bird boxes



I think that a dowel is optional, but maybe helpful. I think it depends on the bird TBH - you're trying to replicate what nature would normally provide, I know that barn owls ideally need a little 'patio' area.


----------



## silz

A


----------



## Steliz

Unfortunately, by using the word 'lumber' you have inadvertantly summoned the demons (pedants). Your punishment will arrive shortly.


----------



## MikeG.

Steliz said:


> Unfortunately, by using the word 'lumber' you have inadvertantly summoned the demons (pedants). Your punishment will arrive shortly.



I'm on his ignore list, so Carruthers re-educating him via the bull-whip will come as something of a shock.


----------



## silz

A


----------



## RichardG

New oak house sign.

Used a freehand router to do most of the work and then cleaned up by hand using a chisel. No finish, I’m hoping it will weather nicely plus it will spare me having to regularly treat it.


----------



## bjm

Getting back to making boxes.......birch ply core, veneer: ripple sycamore, American black walnut, cherry, holly, London plane. Velvet lined. Smart hinges. Oil/varnish finish. Sorry images are a bit soft-camera not well!!!


----------



## transatlantic

Sycamore Box with African Blackwood top, finished with Hamshire sheen, fondant potatos and a seafood foam.


----------



## kinverkid

I replaced the stand that held my large 2010 laptop with this new, more manoeuvrable stand for my Surface Pro laptop/tablet that I often use in the workshop. It is heavily based on the one made from the JSK-koubou YouTube channel and made from off-cuts of 19mm ply and book-matched oak.


----------



## robgul

kinverkid said:


> I replaced the stand that held my large 2010 laptop with this new, more manoeuvrable stand for my Surface Pro laptop/tablet that I often use in the workshop. It is heavily based on the one made from the JSK-koubou YouTube channel and made from off-cuts of 19mm ply and book-matched oak.View attachment 91527
> View attachment 91528


Ah - that's inspired me to make some sort of easel for the old HUDL tablet I keep in the workshop - save me going into the house look stuff up ( and I can order tools and stuff direct from the workshop  )


----------



## MarkDennehy

3D printed posable hose for dust extraction when sanding at the lathe, using Marius Hornberger's design.


----------



## Seb Palmer

My current project (a WIP, awaiting arrival of Velcro from Amazon, due later today): guitar-effects pedal-board. Made from scrap-wood. Rustic and functional, as opposed to many of the things I've seen other folks posting here, which are closer to art than my own 'umble craft!


----------



## Just4Fun

custard said:


> You'll regret it if you do. A better approach is to shim one of the fences, infinitely adjustable and totally reversible if you want to cut your dovetails old school.


I thought a lot about what you wrote. Whilst not entirely convinced I do understand what you mean and decided to follow your advice so I aligned the 2 fences with no offset.

Shimming the horizontal fence is no problem, but for other cuts I need to shim the vertical fence. In a typical UK vice this would be easy, but I use a Scandinavian-style bench with a Scandinavian-style vice. This makes access to the vertical fence difficult when the fence is on the left. Not impossible, but difficult enough to be annoying.

I could reverse the jig to put the fences on the right and access to the fence is then easy, but the wood to be clamped is then beyond the reach of the vice so that doesn't work.

Overall the "jig" makes things a lot easier, and I do like it, but I need to give it more thought to get it really right to use with my vice.


----------



## johnbaz

It's not the last thing I mad but I just found this and polished it up after almost thirty years of being forgotten about in the garage!!

I made the rubbish stand, Not the casting!!   I think I may make one of rock and stand the rock on a Mahogany base 











John


----------



## Harvey B Davison




----------



## Harvey B Davison

A bench I made for my niece.


----------



## Setch

This big honking alcove shelf unit, nearly 2 metres wide. The biggest thing I've built for a customer, and about the biggest my workshop can handle!

The bottom shelf is raised up to fit Ikea storage boxes full of toys underneath, and the rest should end up fully loaded with books.


----------



## Steliz

johnbaz said:


> It's not the last thing I mad but I just found this and polished it up after almost thirty years of being forgotten about in the garage!!
> 
> I made the rubbish stand, Not the casting!!   I think I may make one of rock and stand the rock on a Mahogany base
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John


That is truly the most hideous thing I have ever seen.


----------



## johnbaz

Steliz said:


> That is truly the most hideous thing I have ever seen.




It's lucky for me then that I don't give a flying fig for what you think


----------



## Farm Labourer

RichardG said:


> New oak house sign.
> 
> Used a freehand router to do most of the work and then cleaned up by hand using a chisel. No finish, I’m hoping it will weather nicely plus it will spare me having to regularly treat it.
> 
> View attachment 91493


I've sent you a PM. I think I live on your street!


----------



## Ged S

Not my latest project, but a pair of folding Adirondack chairs I made a couple of years ago using a Veritas design I bought from Axminster. The wood was salvaged from shopfronts when Blackburn Market was demolished. I think it’s iroko.
I also used it on a folding table I built to suit a tight space on my daughter’s balcony.


----------



## MikeG.

Ged S said:


> Not my latest project, but a pair of folding Adirondack chairs I made a couple of years ago using a Veritas design I bought from Axminster. The wood was salvaged from shopfronts when Blackburn Market was demolished. I think it’s iroko.
> I also used it on a folding table I built to suit a tight space on my daughter’s balcony.



Did you mean to attach some images? If so, it didn't work.


----------



## Ged S

MikeG. said:


> Did you mean to attach some images? If so, it didn't work.


Sorry, now reposted


----------



## Cordy

@Ged S
Great work !
Fantastic chairs !!

btw.... just curious; what are the plants on the small tables ?
I'm interested in gardening


----------



## billw

Taper/planing jig. Can do anything between 4mm and 54mm thickness and up to 3’ length, made to take my No4 and No5 planes. I’m going to actually make something proper next!


----------



## MikeG.

Is there a table in your near future, Bill?


----------



## Ged S

Cordy said:


> @Ged S
> Great work !
> Fantastic chairs !!
> 
> btw.... just curious; what are the plants on the small tables ?
> I'm interested in gardening


Thanks and sorry, I haven’t a clue what the plants are. I am definitely not a gardener!


----------



## Pete Hughes

Nothing too exciting, but a was asked by a friend if I could convert two old bedside cabinets into a toy cooker and sink.
These are my attempt at taps, will probably pass a three year old quality control


----------



## billw

MikeG. said:


> Is there a table in your near future, Bill?



There is a strong possibility of that! Got desks, hall tables, suchlike on the wishlist, they're a long way off but the jig will help with planing smaller pieces more accurately in the meantime.


----------



## silz

A


----------



## Sheptonphil

A little weekend project to upcycle a pair of nesting coffee tables.

dark wood so 70’s








Remove top from legs, sand down to remove the varnish. 






fully stripped, slices of 2 year seasoned Ash branches of various sizes bonded to table, infilled with epoxy pour containing 60% powdered copper Then planed flat and polished to 3000 grit before waxing. Legs primed and spray painted.


----------



## gregmcateer

Cordy said:


> @Ged S
> Great work !
> Fantastic chairs !!
> 
> btw.... just curious; what are the plants on the small tables ?
> I'm interested in gardening



I think they are chilli plants. 

Great chairs, too


----------



## Cordy

Cheers @Ged S 
Here is one of my Addys made from Cedar, apart from a few Redwood slats after I ran out of Cedar
All fastenings are hidden Pocket holes apart from the ten coach bolts as decreed by Norm
Plants are Delphinium, Pansy and Iris !


----------



## ajsimmo

First ever post and brand new to woodworking. Tables made of Cedar, routed out, filled with rock pool stuff and then filled with epoxy.


----------



## Ged S

Cordy said:


> Cheers @Ged S
> Here is one of my Addys made from Cedar, apart from a few Redwood slats after I ran out of Cedar
> All fastenings are hidden Pocket holes apart from the ten coach bolts as decreed by Norm
> Plants are Delphinium, Pansy and Iris !
> View attachment 91733
> View attachment 91734


Hi, nice job!
I didn’t have a pocket screw thingy and went for exposed countersunk stainless screws (Spax). Expensive but look pretty good and easy to strip down when refinishing required.


----------



## Cabinetman

Hi Ajsimmo, Mighty fine first project, it might be a trick of the light but have you used and adze on the top of the table on the right, it has a lovely rippled look to it. What are the four slits, decoration or holding the legs on? Ian


----------



## Trainee neophyte

The ongoing saga of bendy wood (lamination) - a sun lounger for the tourists. This is actually a proof of concept, as until someone lay down on it I had no idea if it would be comfortable or not. Luckily it has passed the lounging around test.






There are a number of things badly wrong with it: I used the wrong (foaming polyurethane ) glue for the mortice and tennon joints, which seems to have opened them all up. Very gappy. The glue was a nightmare to clean up, and the finish (light oak stained varnish) shows up where I thought I had cleaned up the glue but hadn't. I hand cut the mortices for the legs so badly I would have started again if it was real work. I also stopped work to make a mortice gauge, I was so appalled by my lack of skill, but without a mortice gauge, I didn't mark out the mortice for the gauge very well, so it isn't brilliant. Seems to be a chicken and egg thing. Now I have a mortice gauge, I can make a mortice gauge properly.

Still, we have 64 mortices (60 cut with a router and jig, which on bendy wood was interesting), and lots of table saw practice. Also cutting tenons (or is it tennons?) on table saw, band saw, and a mix of the two gave me some good experience. I do know that I need another 2 slats at the head end, so the prototype (ie the next one) will be a tad longer. I also know I need more experience being accurate, so I need to churn out a few of these. 

The really sad thing is that at no point, ever, will I lie in the sun on one of these. Still, tourists like that sort of thing, and bought sun loungers cost a fortune and only last 2 years before the sun destroys them. I am hoping for a better return on investment with this.


----------



## kinverkid

Just mad a couple of pizza boards from reclaimed wood. The discs are both larch Victorian stair treads. One has a handle made from oak floorboard which was laid in 1753 The other has a chestnut handle from floorboards at the same premises but age unknown and a cherry insert from the firewood pile. The discs are around 330mm diameter.


----------



## ajsimmo

Ged S said:


> Hi, nice job!
> I didn’t have a pocket screw thingy and went for exposed countersunk stainless screws (Spax). Expensive but look pretty good and easy to strip down when refinishing required.


Cheers Ged, both tables flat (gravity) epoxy crystal clear stuff. The slits are from the woods original purpose, they are/were drainage holes as it was a tree sized planter. The tree was felled on our garden. The other table had them too, but I covered them by making a bigger epoxy fill.


----------



## Bm101

ajsimmo said:


> Cheers Ged, both tables flat (gravity) epoxy crystal clear stuff. The slits are from the woods original purpose, they are/were drainage holes as it was a tree sized planter. The tree was felled on our garden. The other table had them too, but I covered them by making a bigger epoxy fill.


Alderney! Do you know Simon Fane? He used to do the Telegraph crossword in Bromley in the Shortlands. My old local.  I used to have a pint with him most days. He moved back to Alderney a few years back. I miss his company quite often. Proper Gent and great company. Please say hello from me if you do. Tell him Chris from the Tav. He'll know. 
Just in case, hope you understand.


----------



## ajsimmo

Bm101 said:


> Alderney! Do you know Simon Fane? He used to do the Telegraph crossword in Bromley in the Shortlands. My old local.  I used to have a pint with him most days. He moved back to Alderney a few years back. I miss his company quite often. Proper Gent and great company. Please say hello from me if you do. Tell him Chris from the Tav. He'll know.
> Just in case, hope you understand.


I do know him, but not mates. I'll definitely mention you to him Chris. Cheers.


----------



## Bm101

Ha Ha! What a world!


----------



## Cabinetman

Morning Mr Neophyte, they look really comfortable, but that’s a hell of a lot of joints! I like doing laminate work, and people are always impressed and want to know how it’s done, the trick if you didn’t know with that glue is that you don’t touch it until it’s set and then just break it off and remove all traces of it before varnishing, I’ve never known it to open up a joint though, interesting I’ll keep an eye on it next time. I had a problem recently using Evo stick weatherproof, it isn’t at all, so will be using the old gorilla foamy stuff a bit more for outdoor work in future .Ian


----------



## PaulArthur

My missus now has to work from home and I couldn't bear the idea of an Ikea desk, so I made her this. It's my first big piece apart from my work benches. It was quite a learning experience. Not entirely happy, but not unhappy either.


----------



## Lons

Steliz said:


> That is truly the most hideous thing I have ever seen.





johnbaz said:


> It's lucky for me then that I don't give a flying fig for what you think


Well I like it John and it's given me food for thought as mine is mounted on a plain rectangle of granite so might well change that.
Some people just have no taste as well as no manners.


----------



## Coyote

PaulArthur said:


> My missus now has to work from home and I couldn't bear the idea of an Ikea desk, so I made her this. It's my first big piece apart from my work benches. It was quite a learning experience. Not entirely happy, but not unhappy either.
> 
> View attachment 91853



That's very nice Paul. Much better than IKEA!


----------



## MikeG.

PaulArthur said:


> ....... It's my first big piece........



For a first project, that's superb. Well done.


----------



## Steliz

Lons said:


> Well I like it John and it's given me food for thought as mine is mounted on a plain rectangle of granite so might well change that.
> Some people just have no taste as well as no manners.


Taste is subjective so what you like and what someone else likes are rarely going to be in line with each other.
I could have been more polite and followed the default setting on this site by not saying anything and not clicking 'like' when I don't like something just like everyone else has done on the original post but the OP himself described it as 'rubbish'. Basically, I just agreed with him. I could have offered reasons for my opinion but, as you quoted, the OP doesn't care about other people's opinions.


----------



## Steliz

PaulArthur said:


> My missus now has to work from home and I couldn't bear the idea of an Ikea desk, so I made her this. It's my first big piece apart from my work benches. It was quite a learning experience. Not entirely happy, but not unhappy either.


That is impressive, nice work. The wood looks like Ash if I'm not mistaken.


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

Thanks @MarkDennehy, I've been looking for something like this but hadn't found this one. Off to the 3D printer.


----------



## thetyreman

MikeG. said:


> For a first project, that's superb. Well done.



+1 and nice dovetails as well.


----------



## thetyreman

made a frame from some old pine (might possibly be douglas fir not sure)... it's me in the photo


----------



## Cabinetman

Incredible for a first project PaulArther, and dovetails, is there a drawer to follow? 
Looks like American Ash, I do quite a bit with that, works nicely and reasonably priced. Ian


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Cabinetman said:


> Morning Mr Neophyte, they look really comfortable, but that’s a hell of a lot of joints! I like doing laminate work, and people are always impressed and want to know how it’s done, the trick if you didn’t know with that glue is that you don’t touch it until it’s set and then just break it off and remove all traces of it before varnishing, I’ve never known it to open up a joint though, interesting I’ll keep an eye on it next time. I had a problem recently using Evo stick weatherproof, it isn’t at all, so will be using the old gorilla foamy stuff a bit more for outdoor work in future .Ian


Thank you for your advice: I am blaming the glue, but I only had 3 clamps big enough to work, so tried some ratchet straps as well, but I don't think there was enough clamping force to pull it together, despite looking fine in the dry run. Still, blame the glue! I was initially thinking of screws, but the wife said "do it properly", so here we are. Think of it as tenon practice. Re the cleanup, I did as you suggest, but it seems I didn't clean well enough between all the slats. For the laminated parts I plane it all, which fixes everything. You can't plane in between each slat, so wiggling thin chisels and sandpaper was my solution. Next time I will try using pva glue, and do the staining before the glue up. I will still use the polyurethane for the laminates, because it's much better, and it's dry in 3 hours.


----------



## Lons

Steliz said:


> Taste is subjective so what you like and what someone else likes are rarely going to be in line with each other.


No argument from me about that.


Steliz said:


> I could have been more polite


Absolutely you should have.


Steliz said:


> the OP doesn't care about other people's opinions.


That's not what I read, he said he didn't give a fig what you think.

Hopefully you didn't intend it to read the way it did as usually your posts aren't rude or perhaps in Hungary people are more blunt. 
My like it comment btw was genuine as I have one of those Jaguar car mascots and as you admitted we all have different tastes.


----------



## Dominik Pierog

Start cleaning my place and hang some decoration made years ago.


----------



## Coyote

A small tapered leg pot stand for the bathroom palm. Although as the artistic director has put the palm in a gap behind the bath I could have got away with a plastic crate....


----------



## PaulArthur

Steliz said:


> That is impressive, nice work. The wood looks like Ash if I'm not mistaken.


Yes, Ash.


----------



## Rorton

had lots of small offcuts from other projects sitting in a box, so decided to do something with them, and came up with these 3 panels. Now hung on the wall in my home office. 

Walnut float frame, with Walnut, Oak, Mahogany and Beech offcuts in the panels.


----------



## Ged S

H


Trainee neophyte said:


> The ongoing saga of bendy wood (lamination) - a sun lounger for the tourists. This is actually a proof of concept, as until someone lay down on it I had no idea if it would be comfortable or not. Luckily it has passed the lounging around test.
> 
> View attachment 91812
> 
> 
> There are a number of things badly wrong with it: I used the wrong (foaming polyurethane ) glue for the mortice and tennon joints, which seems to have opened them all up. Very gappy. The glue was a nightmare to clean up, and the finish (light oak stained varnish) shows up where I thought I had cleaned up the glue but hadn't. I hand cut the mortices for the legs so badly I would have started again if it was real work. I also stopped work to make a mortice gauge, I was so appalled by my lack of skill, but without a mortice gauge, I didn't mark out the mortice for the gauge very well, so it isn't brilliant. Seems to be a chicken and egg thing. Now I have a mortice gauge, I can make a mortice gauge properly.
> 
> Still, we have 64 mortices (60 cut with a router and jig, which on bendy wood was interesting), and lots of table saw practice. Also cutting tenons (or is it tennons?) on table saw, band saw, and a mix of the two gave me some good experience. I do know that I need another 2 slats at the head end, so the prototype (ie the next one) will be a tad longer. I also know I need more experience being accurate, so I need to churn out a few of these.
> 
> The really sad thing is that at no point, ever, will I lie in the sun on one of these. Still, tourists like that sort of thing, and bought sun loungers cost a fortune and only last 2 years before the sun destroys them. I am hoping for a better return on investment with this.


Hi, Looks comfy!
Did you consider notching the laminations pre glue up to form the mortices for the slats, rather than cutting them after?


----------



## Steliz

Lons said:


> No argument from me about that.
> 
> Absolutely you should have.
> 
> That's not what I read, he said he didn't give a fig what you think.
> 
> Hopefully you didn't intend it to read the way it did as usually your posts aren't rude or perhaps in Hungary people are more blunt.
> My like it comment btw was genuine as I have one of those Jaguar car mascots and as you admitted we all have different tastes.



You sound like my wife in that you insist on making a drama out of absolutely anything.


----------



## MikeG.

Coyote said:


> A small tapered leg pot stand for the bathroom palm.



Does that have an apron, or are the legs set directly into the top?


----------



## PaulArthur

Cabinetman said:


> Incredible for a first project PaulArther, and dovetails, is there a drawer to follow?
> Looks like American Ash, I do quite a bit with that, works nicely and reasonably priced. Ian


The panels at the side of the void are two drawers. They’re on runners as I didn’t want visible handles and so I thought the would open better that way. The gap in the middle is for easy access storage. I’m not sure it was really the best option though... maybe next time I’ll do a full width drawer.


----------



## MikeG.

PaulArthur said:


> The panels at the side of the void are two drawers........



See the little set-back they have? Well next time (!  ) if you were to have a little overhang of the upper body of the piece over the sub-structure you'd go from a 9-1/2 to a 10 out of 10. Just 4-6mm all round is all it needs. There's just a slight awkwardness where the ends with their excellent dovetails sit flush with the aprons below. Not a criticism so much as a critique, because it is a lovely piece.


----------



## Coyote

MikeG. said:


> Does that have an apron, or are the legs set directly into the top?



It's a bit of a hatchet job, the legs are just housed in, glued and screwed. It won't take any real weight but it doesn't have to. When I've got a bit of time I might try and make a proper version with some decent wood and aprons but the angles are going to make my brain bleed.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Ged S said:


> H
> 
> Hi, Looks comfy!
> Did you consider notching the laminations pre glue up to form the mortices for the slats, rather than cutting them after?


 
No, because that would be clever. Really clever. There would be issues with the glue filling up the mortices, but other than that...can't fault it. The mortice would have to be the thickness of one lamination layer only, but that would be 10mm instead of 12 - I don't think it would be huge problem. The real benefit would be having the mortice exactly in line with the edge of the wood, no matter which way it was bending. I'm going to have to try this. Thank you.


----------



## Ged S

Trainee neophyte said:


> No, because that would be clever. Really clever. There would be issues with the glue filling up the mortices, but other than that...can't fault it. The mortice would have to be the thickness of one lamination layer only, but that would be 10mm instead of 12 - I don't think it would be huge problem. The real benefit would be having the mortice exactly in line with the edge of the wood, no matter which way it was bending. I'm going to have to try this. Thank you.


No probs. May I suggest using the plastic straw trick to remove glue from the mortises?


----------



## MikeG.

Ged S said:


> No probs. May I suggest using the plastic straw trick to remove glue from the mortises?



Not with PU glue. Leave it until it sets, but before it goes rock hard, then remove with a chisel, scraper or knife. If you try to clean it up with a straw, a cloth, or anything else whilst it is still wet, you'll end up with an almighty mess in quite a hurry.


----------



## sammy.se

Rorton said:


> had lots of small offcuts from other projects sitting in a box, so decided to do something with them, and came up with these 3 panels. Now hung on the wall in my home office.
> 
> Walnut float frame, with Walnut, Oak, Mahogany and Beech offcuts in the panels.
> 
> View attachment 91907


I love this. Nice work!


----------



## Ged S

MikeG. said:


> Not with PU glue. Leave it until it sets, but before it goes rock hard, then remove with a chisel, scraper or knife. If you try to clean it up with a straw, a cloth, or anything else whilst it is still wet, you'll end up with an almighty mess in quite a hurry.


Neophyte said he was going to try again with pva glue. My suggestion was based on this


----------



## MikeG.

Ged S said:


> Neophyte said he was going to try again with pva glue. My suggestion was based on this



Ah, sorry. I missed that. Obviously he'll need waterproof PVA. The classic way to deal with PVA squeeze-out is to have a coat of the finish on the timber first, pre-gluing, then just wipe off the excess glue with a wet rag.


----------



## Hopefuldave

Best Boy's Cheapo Chinese bike's twistgrip broke, nipple pulled through the plastic... Temp repair got him going but left him with a sticky throttle, time for a new twistgrip barrel:

"Oh, they all do that" and "no, don't get the call for 'em" - Grrrr

So: 



Two sawcuts to add - he can do *some* of it, eh?

Dave H. (the other one)


----------



## Trainee neophyte

MikeG. said:


> Ah, sorry. I missed that. Obviously he'll need waterproof PVA. The classic way to deal with PVA squeeze-out is to have a coat of the finish on the timber first, pre-gluing, then just wipe off the excess glue with a wet rag.


Thank you both for the help. The lamination will be done with polyurethane, because pva sets far too fast, and it also gives a better result with the laminations (it makes them virtually invisible). I will try doing the slats with pva, on the basis that the cleanup will be easier in between all the slats, in the fiddly gaps etc. I was also hoping to put the finish on (or at least the stain) before I glue it together. Is that feasible? (Edit: actually read all of Mike 's answer this time - will apply the finish first).

Currently I am making some new clamps (How to make your own wooden sash cramps) but I had an epiphany yesterday - I have enough clamps (for this job, at least) but they are not long enough, so I will try making some sort of extensions for them as well. It _might_ work. I'm thinking piece of wood with a hole at one end for the clamp head, and a right angled piece to hold on to the work, possibly with a mortice and tenon joint. It's all a voyage of discovery at this point.


----------



## PaulArthur

MikeG. said:


> See the little set-back they have? Well next time (!  ) if you were to have a little overhang of the upper body of the piece over the sub-structure you'd go from a 9-1/2 to a 10 out of 10. Just 4-6mm all round is all it needs. There's just a slight awkwardness where the ends with their excellent dovetails sit flush with the aprons below. Not a criticism so much as a critique, because it is a lovely piece.


Thanks for your input. I did wonder about that. I’d sketched out various options from having a much smaller sub-structure but it didn’t seem as stable, and I’d also wondered about routing a small shadow gap around the sub-structure to make the top float a little. In the end, I went for speed because my wife needed to use it. I can still take the top off and put that gap in, but it’s obviously not possible to undo it if I don’t like it!


----------



## MikeG.

A gap would work, but I was meaning an overhang.


----------



## Cabinetman

Rather than going round with a router you could create a shadow gap with some thin strips of wood setback 5 mm, mitred ar the corners it would mean the top of the desk was slightly higher of course. Did you fit push to open catches on those drawers by the way?


----------



## ajsimmo

Rorton said:


> had lots of small offcuts from other projects sitting in a box, so decided to do something with them, and came up with these 3 panels. Now hung on the wall in my home office.
> 
> Walnut float frame, with Walnut, Oak, Mahogany and Beech offcuts in the panels.
> 
> View attachment 91907


They look great, very simple but effective. Nice job.


----------



## NickVanBeest

Multifunctional side table...


----------



## Doug71

Built a wardrobe for a customer this week, left side is hot water tank/airing cupboard (hence the pipe casing above), right side is hanging space. They have a decorator coming to do a couple of rooms so he will be painting it.






To prove I don't only do MDF built-ins here's a sash window I did a couple of weeks ago, was working back there today so took a pic, it's not a proper one as on spiral balances (small enough anyway without boxes on the side), made from Accoya, glazed with Heritage units. Notice the scaffold outside, they are having a new roof, think I would have done the roof before the windows


----------



## Ged S

Trainee neophyte said:


> Thank you both for the help. The lamination will be done with polyurethane, because pva sets far too fast, and it also gives a better result with the laminations (it makes them virtually invisible). I will try doing the slats with pva, on the basis that the cleanup will be easier in between all the slats, in the fiddly gaps etc. I was also hoping to put the finish on (or at least the stain) before I glue it together. Is that feasible? (Edit: actually read all of Mike 's answer this time - will apply the finish first).
> 
> Currently I am making some new clamps (How to make your own wooden sash cramps) but I had an epiphany yesterday - I have enough clamps (for this job, at least) but they are not long enough, so I will try making some sort of extensions for them as well. It _might_ work. I'm thinking piece of wood with a hole at one end for the clamp head, and a right angled piece to hold on to the work, possibly with a mortice and tenon joint. It's all a voyage of discovery at this point.


No probs, I quite fancy building a couple of these. Are you making the legs detachable so the beds stack for storage?


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Ged S said:


> No probs, I quite fancy building a couple of these. Are you making the legs detachable so the beds stack for storage?


No need to stack them up, so the legs are glued in. I have wondered whether I may come to regret that decision. One option was to have the legs fold, but it would complicate matters, and could fold up during use, which would be amusing.


----------



## marcros

bjm said:


> Getting back to making boxes.......birch ply core, veneer: ripple sycamore, American black walnut, cherry, holly, London plane. Velvet lined. Smart hinges. Oil/varnish finish. Sorry images are a bit soft-camera not well!!!
> 
> View attachment 91506
> 
> View attachment 91507



Brian, I am not sure if anybody has commented on this, but even with the slightly soft photos, it is exceptional. That inlaying on the front and top looks great as a design and is executed perfectly. There are dozens of ways that the box could have been spoiled with anything less than that level of craftsmanship you have displayed, well done. 

this gets my nomination for best in show for 2020!


----------



## sammy.se

Doug71 said:


> Built a wardrobe for a customer this week, left side is hot water tank/airing cupboard (hence the pipe casing above), right side is hanging space. They have a decorator coming to do a couple of rooms so he will be painting it.
> 
> View attachment 91995
> 
> 
> To prove I don't only do MDF built-ins here's a sash window I did a couple of weeks ago, was working back there today so took a pic, it's not a proper one as on spiral balances (small enough anyway without boxes on the side), made from Accoya, glazed with Heritage units. Notice the scaffold outside, they are having a new roof, think I would have done the roof before the windows
> 
> View attachment 91996



Very neat work!

How does you make and level the plinth under the cupboard, looks quite short.


----------



## Doug71

sammy.se said:


> Very neat work!
> 
> How does you make and level the plinth under the cupboard, looks quite short.



It's actually higher then it looks in the photo, if you look closely you will see the carpet is rolled up the front of it making it look smaller. 

It was basically a 3x2 frame with MDF on the front to make the doors look inset. There is no bottom or back in the wardrobe because of hot water tank. The 3x2 legs went down to the floor, the bottom cross 3x2 was held up a couple of inches off the floor ( so the doors are about 100mm off the floor). A piece of MDF was fitted to the front of this then a piece of MDF skirting was mitred around the bottom to make it look more like a piece of furniture.


----------



## bjm

marcros said:


> Brian, I am not sure if anybody has commented on this, but even with the slightly soft photos, it is exceptional. That inlaying on the front and top looks great as a design and is executed perfectly. There are dozens of ways that the box could have been spoiled with anything less than that level of craftsmanship you have displayed, well done.
> 
> this gets my nomination for best in show for 2020!



Thank you marcros, that's a very generous thing to say.

I will correct one thing though - none of that is inlay! I start from the middle and work out so it's outlay, if anything!

The design was just a 'let's see what this looks like...' and I'm quite pleased with it. I am working on more boxes and, this time, taking pictures. I'll put up a WIP soon to show my workflow.


----------



## marcros

I would be interested to see that. if anything it makes it even more impressive!


----------



## Jonzjob

I have been back to making some wine bottle coasters. These are in black walnut from some off cuts from a local cabinet maker. The pyrography looks really good and I had thought that the wood being dark would mute it too much. I don't think it does. Left is finished with hard wax oil and then finished with Chestnut Microcrystaline Wax the other is raw wood as yet and the second photo shows the component parts before I pyro the Celtic knot and assemble it. The longest job is getting the uprights exactly the same length or they sit totally wrong.

I have no idea why the photos aren't showing??


----------



## PaulArthur

MikeG. said:


> A gap would work, but I was meaning an overhang.





Cabinetman said:


> Rather than going round with a router you could create a shadow gap with some thin strips of wood setback 5 mm, mitred ar the corners it would mean the top of the desk was slightly higher of course. Did you fit push to open catches on those drawers by the way?


Interesting idea...
The drawer fronts are wider than the voids for the drawers, so they overhang in to the central space slightly, allowing you to pull the drawers open at the sides (which is why I opted for Blum runners instead of just having the drawers fitted in to the space). When I get chance, I’m going to put a small indentation in to the edges of the drawer fronts to make it more obvious.


----------



## bjm

Here's one from a few years ago. This is what you can do with some slightly bigger boxes - largest one for the TV. Look away if you're mdf-averse though  The face is all lipped with tulipwood. Alcove was about fifteen feet high.


----------



## gregmcateer

Bm101 said:


> Alderney! Do you know Simon Fane? He used to do the Telegraph crossword in Bromley in the Shortlands. My old local.  I used to have a pint with him most days. He moved back to Alderney a few years back. I miss his company quite often. Proper Gent and great company. Please say hello from me if you do. Tell him Chris from the Tav. He'll know.
> Just in case, hope you understand.



Stop it, BM!
I used to live in Shortland - just up the hill, actually - Park End, behind quick fit. 
Was down there last week doing some repairs on our old house we rent out. 
It changes so much each time I see it, though still great fried breakfast at what was Mazzi's opposite Brewers decorating place


----------



## Bm101

I was 3 doors from the pub.  Used to have a cracking crowd in there. 
As you say, it's so busy all round there now. Getting properly swallowed up really. 
What's mad is that I remember seeing a picture/drawing of the buildings and houses round there pre ww2 and there was nearly nothing there. I'm a bit wiser now but I distinctly remember being shocked at the rate of change as a young lad looking at that picture. 
Anyway.... back on topic!


----------



## Trainee neophyte

bjm said:


> . I am working on more boxes and, this time, taking pictures. I'll put up a WIP soon to show my workflow.


Please, please do! The only reason I didn't say anything before is because I'm not qualified.


----------



## Coyote

Ply desk to alleviate the lack of suitable home working space. With "matching" mini-me monitor stand.


----------



## Cabinetman

A desk I have just completed and delivered, this thing took over my life for a while, it weighs in at almost a quarter of a ton – not easy when you work alone! The overall original concept for the desk was from the client, I just had to work out how on earth to do it and make it. 
The most challenging aspect was grooving out for the tongues to hold the splines of the elliptical barrels together so that the inside faces lined up, I grooved them on my spindle moulder but they had to be held up at an angle so that the face was against the fence. There were 60 splines altogether, and thought had to be given not to groove where the doors were on each barrel, and just to make it interesting the doors weren’t all in the same places or opening the same way. The decorative grooves on the outside of the barrels are a seemingly random pattern which along with the elliptical shape was designed to match the architecture of the building. Ian


----------



## Cabinetman




----------



## Cabinetman




----------



## Cabinetman

The original model for the client is on top of the desk, the stainless steel drums which hold the desk off the floor and the top off the barrels can be seen. The overall effect that the separate parts appear to float is very effective in the room, it isn’t easy to see the stainless steel drums unless you bob down.


----------



## Cabinetman

The three boards I selected, were put through the timber yards planer thicknesser,


----------



## Cabinetman

Showing construction of the top with the lift out squares for electrical wires, also the tongues which were "stopped" and intended to save me an enormous amount of cleaning up time on the top surface of the desk, so they were grooved in on the spindle moulder with the top surface of the desk down on the bed, and I had to construct an extra long plywood bed onto my old Sedgwick moulder, the desk at its longest is 8 feet long.


----------



## Cabinetman

The two parts of the L-shaped desk top are held together with 10 mil stainless steel threaded bar with large recesses on the underside of the desk top for the nuts and washers, a bit like on a staircase handrail. The brass locating pins were marked out by using a panel pin cut off close to the wood and then the two pieces of the top were offered up together and the sharp end of the panel pin marked the position. The brass pin of course is just a large brass screw with its head cut off and rounded with a file.


----------



## Coyote

Well that's put my plywood offering somewhat in the shade . That's an epic build, very nice work.


----------



## J-G

I know you've said that the basic design was in the customer's brief but ---- fantastic execution! ---- 

The Ellipse used to be my favorite mathematical section until I discovered the Reuluaux Polygons - I even designed and built a chuck for my Myford to turn elliptical objects.

You've prompted me to think about building a similar desk (though not as 'robust' ) but using a Reuleaux Pentagon for the cupboards.


----------



## Cabinetman

Each barrel is made up of 20 splines the bottom of the barrel is rebated in and the top is in a groove.
Movement in the barrel is uncontrolled, and the top and bottoms are only glued in for the first 6 inches either side of where the door fits this was to keep the door aperture 








fairly constant whilst the rest of the barrel could shrink and expand as it wanted to, just how much that will work is open to debate!


----------



## Cabinetman

Well that's put my plywood offering somewhat in the shade . That's an epic build, very nice work.
[/QUOTE]
Sorry, I did think we could do with another picture of the underside and how you fastened it all together Ian


----------



## Cabinetman

Hi JG how on Earth do you turn an ellipse?


----------



## Cabinetman

I had upwards of 10 mm to remove in places for the outside of the barrels and I know this isn’t textbook but it was the only way I could think of keeping my fingers well away from the blades and it worked 


very well indeed. Obviously the Tommy bar could fall into the blades so a bit of tape wrapped around a few times stopped that


----------



## Cabinetman

Then came planing up the outside of the barrels after the planer Had got it reasonably to profile. The same set up was used here to put the decorative grooves on as well.


----------



## Cabinetman

I had decided that one of the decorative Groves should land on where the hinges were going so they were not so apparent when the door was closed. Whilst that did have the desired effect it also meant that the doors couldn’t open quite as far as maybe I would’ve wanted. More than adequate though.


----------



## Cabinetman

Each half of the L shaped top of the desk was glued up in two sections and as I said I was on my own so this was how I got the ends cut square on the saw ready for hand planing, then each set of two sections were glued together


----------



## Cabinetman




----------



## MikeG.

Excellent, Cabinetman. Great craftsmanship and problem solving.

I reckon this deserves a thread of its own in Projects, rather than being swallowed up in this monster thread never to be seen again.


----------



## Cabinetman

MikeG. said:


> Excellent, Cabinetman. Great craftsmanship and problem solving.
> 
> I reckon this deserves a thread of its own in Projects, rather than being swallowed up in this monster thread never to be seen again.


Thanks Mike, how do I do that or is it done by the moderator?


----------



## Bm101

Just write it and post with as many pics as you can bear posting in this section:
Projects 
This thread is nice to look at but it lacks the depth of wips. Projects is a good place for work to remain searchable and have more detail. Everyone loves a good project or work in progress.

*nudge


----------



## Cabinetman

So no way to just transfer it " en bloc"? I can redo do it all of course but it would be easier to just move it.


----------



## J-G

Cabinetman said:


> Hi JG how on Earth do you turn an ellipse?


Part of me was hoping that you hadn't asked that  Up to about the 1950's there were commercially made 'Ellipse Chucks' but with the advent of CNC the need dwindled. I saw a mention of one being made from wood by David Springett and due to my Ellipse 'fetish'  became so intrigued that I spent about two years working out how it was done. The first time I 'drew' an ellipse with a felt tipped pen in the toolpost I 'cheered'  I eventually made version 3 with various improvements, the last being to make the ratio of Major to Minor Axis variable.

There are limitations when using a chuck made from wood, even though some parts were from Burbinga and Oak and there are 100 3.5mm ball bearings. The items I've made are small and the tools used are burrs in either a Dremil or Kress motor and taking very light cuts - certainly less than 1mm, sometimes as little as 0.1mm.

The Cameo and the Pill Box (images attached) are both about the same size - 50 x 58 - - the Pill Box 27mm deep. The segmented box is larger at 95 x 76 x 40 plus lid and the Ring Box shows a more extreme eccentricity at 45 x 15 x 30 high.


----------



## Hornbeam

Love the extended crosscut sliding table


----------



## Cabinetman

I have on Mike G's recommendation reproduced this work to projects now. Ian


----------



## Droogs

If you can't manage to do it on a lathe then make yourself an Archimedes Trammel. I have made a few in my time currently have one in the workshop that will allow me to make a 1300mm x 1300mm elipse of any size combination down to 200mm. cant go smaller as the base of the router gets in the way


----------



## weekend_woodworker

And now for something completely different...

Not the finest of woodworking, but what the chief bee keeper ordered. A honey tipper to allow the honey once it has been extracted into the bucket to be decanted into jars with as few air bubbles as possible.

The legs are detachable for storage with the black knobs. To increase the angle of tilt it is simply a case of moving the bar forwards which has angled slots planed in the bottom to lock with the angles slots cut in the plywood. I cut the latter with a small router, using a dovetail bit and an angled sub base so the side of the dovetail bit was vertical. I finished the whole thing in some Ronseal quick drying varnish as it is bound to get sticky and need washing.


----------



## matmac




----------



## NickM

weekend_woodworker said:


> And now for something completely different...
> 
> Not the finest of woodworking, but what the chief bee keeper ordered. A honey tipper to allow the honey once it has been extracted into the bucket to be decanted into jars with as few air bubbles as possible.
> 
> The legs are detachable for storage with the black knobs. To increase the angle of tilt it is simply a case of moving the bar forwards which has angled slots planed in the bottom to lock with the angles slots cut in the plywood. I cut the latter with a small router, using a dovetail bit and an angled sub base so the side of the dovetail bit was vertical. I finished the whole thing in some Ronseal quick drying varnish as it is bound to get sticky and need washing.
> 
> View attachment 92232
> 
> View attachment 92234



I’ll have to think about making something like this for my wife who keeps bees too.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Cabinetman's desk - Brilliantly and beautifully made. Each to their own, but it's beyond ugly.


----------



## Cabinetman

Weekend WW I’m sure she will be over the moon with that, nicely executed, the way you cut the bevels is ingenious but I think in use it will not be quite as easy to use had they not been there though., perhaps a big wheeled screw at the back? I just don’t want to imagine how messy this job is going to get ha ha


----------



## Cabinetman

Phil, Thank you for your comment about my work. I can’t quite agree that it is beyond ugly, but I have always said it wasn’t actually really my thing either! 

This thread now moved to Projects. Ian


----------



## Peri

(posted this in a thread where I asked for advice - I'm just going to copy it here and add finished pictures)


Bit hesitant to post my strictly amateur, weekend wood working efforts here, but I am actually quite proud of how things turned out.

I am NOT a carpenter (I teach CAD and CNC), and this is only my second project bigger than a trinket box or pencil case 

(Pictures are clickable. Sorry about some of the quality - old camera phone and low light)

Started with these skip finds - about a dozen desk legs and the same amount of 4' long runners, and an old desk top.






Desktop after a quick hand plane'n'sand




Ended up with the two pedestals

Left 

 Right 



The top being worked on


 




Finished 



 

 





It's definitely not proper joinery. I didn't have a lot of timber to start with, so everything is actually 3/4" ply 'clad' in 3-4mm veneers I cut from the runners, and because the legs all had big mortises cut out of them on two sides, I resawed those into 50x15mm strips which were also glued to the ply.

I believe the body of the desk is meranti (with identification help from this forum), and I think the top is iroko - its very hard, brittle and the dust is a killer.

My first breadboard ends, my first drawers, and the first piece of large furniture that had to fit together !


----------



## Fitzroy

Looks good to me, I need to look in more skips!


----------



## Peri

Never, ever walk past a skip without looking ! - my latest find was old 1950's or 1960's firedoors -




This pic is about 1/3rd of the rails, and some of the stiles (arrowed).




I don't know what the wood is, but I probably couldn't afford to buy that quantity from a timber yard 
(They let me have them for nothing, just to give them more skip space - I dismantled them there and gave them the glass back !)





It's not going to make a kitchen, but for my tiny, weekend projects it'll last me years !


----------



## MikeG.

Well done Peri. If I say "mahogany-like" timber, it doesn't for a second suggest that I think this is mahogany. It might be, or one of the many tropical hardwood mahogany alternatives. Either way, you've got some nice wood there for no money and just a little time and effort.


----------



## Doug71

Continuing my promise to myself to post more pics here are todays efforts (let me know when you get fed up).

Today I started fitting some windows and louvers in a Dovecote, it's being converted into an office. I made the windows and louvers a few weeks ago but have been waiting for the glass. The arches are a bit of a funny shape but there are a few and all different so took an average.

Timber is Sapele with Heritage glass (still haven't worked out the best way to fit this stuff).


----------



## Cabinetman

That’s nice work Doug, I’m sorry I can’t help you as it’s not my line of work, but I don’t think you could’ve made them any bigger to fit that iregular shaped opening. The only thing I do know from personal experience is you need to fit damp proof membranes in the right places – sorry that’s not much help is it ha ha. Ian


----------



## Doug71

Cabinetman said:


> That’s nice work Doug, I’m sorry I can’t help you as it’s not my line of work, but I don’t think you could’ve made them any bigger to fit that iregular shaped opening. The only thing I do know from personal experience is you need to fit damp proof membranes in the right places – sorry that’s not much help is it ha ha. Ian



Sorry, I probably wasn't clear, it's just fitting the Heritage glass I haven't found a way I'm happy with


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

matmac said:


> View attachment 92245


That’s some beautifully scribed sides against the stone there matmac. What method did you use to achieve such accurate results?


----------



## matmac

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> That’s some beautifully scribed sides against the stone there matmac. What method did you use to achieve such accurate results?


Thank you, just a compass and patience. Took me longer than I wanted but I was happy how it all came out. The one piece on the right I had to add a fillet as the stone was so off plumb


----------



## matmac

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> That’s some beautifully scribed sides against the stone there matmac. What method did you use to achieve such accurate results?


Thank you, just a compass and lots of patience. Took me about about 14 hours to fit the whole thing. Way longer than I expected.


----------



## MikeG.

Doug71 said:


> .......Timber is Sapele with Heritage glass.........



Heritage glass? What do you mean by that?


----------



## Doug71

MikeG. said:


> Heritage glass? What do you mean by that?



Sorry, I meant the low sight line/ slimlite type double glazed units, a few people I deal with just refer to it as heritage glass. The Heritage putty the manufacturer specifies from Hodgson Sealants is a bit sticky to deal with, even using beads I end up with it everywhere


----------



## Rich C

I am planning to make a frame for my mother's birthday; she asked for a nice framed photo, so I thought I'd go with a hand made frame (in walnut) to boot.
This is not that, this is a practice frame I made from some oak offcuts I had lying around. A useful learning process, I'm fairly happy, but there is room for improvement.







I went for contrasting splines in birch. They are not contrasting once finished. They probably would be against walnut though. Also, I think I will mark for my splines with a pencil not a knife next time as removing the marks was a pain.


----------



## MikeG.

I rather like those knife marks.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I think they look awful.


----------



## Rich C

I too am not a fan. But this is why I made a test piece first.


----------



## NickVanBeest

As my shed is a wee bit small, I needed to get the shopvac out to have room to maneuver a bit more, so whipped up this little side-shed yesterday:






Made with left-overs from the shed build, glad I hadn't yet got rid of it!

Busy padding it with acoustic foam, so neighbours won't get too much noise (and neither will I!)


----------



## Droogs

nicely tied into the original design. Looks very good


----------



## NickVanBeest

Droogs said:


> nicely tied into the original design. Looks very good


Yup, made sure that the cladding lines up properly...


----------



## Dominik Pierog

Wolf


----------



## Doris

Zigby The Rocking Zebra


----------



## Cabinetman

Nice one Doris, I wouldn’t have the faintest idea where to start on making something like that, I think it’s worth a load of photos on how you made it if you have them, How to hold it for one thing – or is that why you’ve always got your blood on everything (previous post somewhere) ha ha
Ps just realised that’s Zigby on your profile photo – he is a full-size one isn’t he!


----------



## Beau

Bit of an odd one but got asked to make part of a praxinoscope and incase you like me you dont know what they this is one I found on youtube . Someone had a go but it wasn't even remotely true when spun so I had to get it spot on to make a happy customer. I only made up the rosewood and cherry surround and client did the rest. Not my taste but they were happy


----------



## Nigel Burden

Sat here resting a badly sprained ankle done yesterday whilst exercising the daughters hound, I thought I'd post a photo of a Spear & Jackson tenon saw that I cut down, filed off, and resized the teeth to 16 tpi, and re handled, making it into a dovetail saw. Setting the teeth was a slow job as they're about on the limit for my aging eyes.











Nigel.


----------



## Doris

Cabinetman said:


> Nice one Doris, I wouldn’t have the faintest idea where to start on making something like that, I think it’s worth a load of photos on how you made it if you have them, How to hold it for one thing – or is that why you’ve always got your blood on everything (previous post somewhere) ha ha
> Ps just realised that’s Zigby on your profile photo – he is a full-size one isn’t he!



Thanks. Unfortunately no consistent WIP photos of this one but this one was using method from the past two rocking horses I built they're on instructables and the woodworker magazines a few years back. He was indeed full size. The customer (who commissioned it) quite easily rode it before he went off to his new home


----------



## Cabinetman

Wonderful, isn’t it a terrific feeling when your customer claps eyes on the finished project. I shall have to look that up as I have a grandson on the way, my first. I know it’s difficult to say, approximately how many weeks work in one of these rocking animals?


----------



## Doris

Cabinetman said:


> Wonderful, isn’t it a terrific feeling when your customer claps eyes on the finished project. I shall have to look that up as I have a grandson on the way, my first. I know it’s difficult to say, approximately how many weeks work in one of these rocking animals?



Approximately a month if you work 5 days on it


----------



## sammy.se

I needed something very simple to hold workpieces when sanding or cutting with the track saw, that didn't get in the way:

Made from scrap:






25mm hole for the top half of the bench dogs:






Add dowels as a lever:





And done in about 15 mins!












Lesson learned: The offset of the 25mm centre hole is too big, and sometimes you don't get that nice tight friction cramping action - it just pushes the workpiece. The next iteration will have the offset only a few mm off-centre.


----------



## NickM

A while ago I posted a photo of tool cabinet I'd made.






Since then I've been gradually fitting it out with tool racks and internal panels.

First was a chisel rack:






I then made an internal hinged panel. It's just 12mm ply with oak lipping.






I put some of my measuring tools on the panel:






Next were a couple more hinged panels with places for saws, marking gauges, spokeshaves etc.









The most recent addition is a little drawer section. I made it as a separate unit which can be slotted in. This is the frame:









And with the drawers in:









There are a few more things I'll add (some dividers to the left of the drawers for example), and you'll notice that there is space for some additional tools which I don't yet own!

It's great being able to keep my bench clear of tools whilst having them all in easy reach.

Although I designed this to fit the space I had, the inspiration (especially for some of the details like the hinged panels and tool racking) was this article I found on line: Cabinet plans. It might be useful for anyone else embarking on this kind of thing.


----------



## Cabinetman

That really is a superb piece of work Nick, you must be very proud and pleased when you use it, I think the idea of internal panels is brilliant and gives you so much more space, nicely fitted drawers!
That is going to be quite heavy when it’s full I hope you got it well screwed to the wall!


----------



## sammy.se

NickM said:


> A while ago I posted a photo of tool cabinet I'd made.
> 
> View attachment 92838
> 
> 
> Since then I've been gradually fitting it out with tool racks and internal panels.
> 
> First was a chisel rack:
> 
> View attachment 92840
> 
> 
> I then made an internal hinged panel. It's just 12mm ply with oak lipping.
> 
> View attachment 92842
> 
> 
> I put some of my measuring tools on the panel:
> 
> View attachment 92843
> 
> 
> Next were a couple more hinged panels with places for saws, marking gauges, spokeshaves etc.
> 
> View attachment 92844
> View attachment 92849
> 
> 
> The most recent addition is a little drawer section. I made it as a separate unit which can be slotted in. This is the frame:
> 
> View attachment 92845
> View attachment 92846
> 
> 
> And with the drawers in:
> 
> View attachment 92847
> View attachment 92848
> 
> 
> There are a few more things I'll add (some dividers to the left of the drawers for example), and you'll notice that there is space for some additional tools which I don't yet own!
> 
> It's great being able to keep my bench clear of tools whilst having them all in easy reach.
> 
> Although I designed this to fit the space I had, the inspiration (especially for some of the details like the hinged panels and tool racking) was this article I found on line: Cabinet plans. It might be useful for anyone else embarking on this kind of thing.



Very smart indeed!


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I used to keep my planes in a cupboard a bit like that. Everyone knew it as the hangar.

I glued a couple of little pieces of wood on the inside of the outer bottom edge of the doors so that when closed they protruded into the main cabinet so there was much less stress on the hinges.


----------



## bourbon

there is some woodwork in this, Honestly, It's a trolley for a magician. So he can transport his props and amp from his car to the venue in one go. It's not finished yet.


----------



## mynamehere

During the lockdown I finally got some time to build my workbench after the wood had been waiting for nearly a year...
Top is beech with the middle removable strip iroko, frame and shelves iroko.







After that I thought I'd have a go at making a door, I took the up and over door out of the garage and replaced it with a wall and a door opening, now it looks like this!




Cheers,

Ferenc


----------



## Cabinetman

Very nice Ferenc, particularly like that bit of wall and the door – dead posh! Nice bit of work on that bench as well, is that one of those lift up strips in the middle to plane against? I’ve just fitted one to my English style bench with a well. I wasn’t sure it was going to work with not having another big chunk of wood behind it but it does. Will load up some photos soon I think. Ian
Just noticed you have a couple of forged holdfasts, I’ve just brought mine back from the states I’m most impressed with them – Gramercy I think you can get them in Germany here.


----------



## mynamehere

Thanks Ian, yes, the middle strip (2X3") turns over as a planing stop, it fits pretty tight in the slot, the holdfasts (19MM) I got from Ebay from an english blacksmith, they work a treat.

Cheers!

Ferenc


----------



## Cabinetman

Check out a new thread I started called "this should be required viewing for anybody working with wood" or something similar, really really brilliant, I’ve been working wood all my life and I learnt quite a bit!


----------



## Rich C

Another picture frame, much better this time, the joinery is cleaner.
I decided to try doing an inlay.
Quite pleased with this one. Mostly hand tools used apart from saws for dimensioning.






Thicker splines, I'm not liking them so much.


----------



## Webbie

This was for the mother in law.


----------



## Webbie

This for me and my boys


----------



## NickVanBeest

Webbie said:


> This for me and my boys


What scale is that? N? Z?


----------



## bjm

Just put the first (of many) finish coats on this one, just to see - still have to do the base! Took many pics along the way and will post a WIP very soon, promise. Cherry, Am Black Walnut, Zebrano, Holly, Sapele, Beech, Plane. Lift-off lid.


----------



## bjm

Sometimes the wood speaks for itself. 

I bought a bundle of oak veneer (sight unseen) for another job a while back. It has a gorgeous ripple down one portion of the leaf, as can be seen on the right side of the box. It does show on the top as well but not clear from the picture. Luckily, I only used a fraction of the bundle for the job so have the rest. 

Oak veneer with Am Black walnut trim.


----------



## Doug71

This week some shelves I made for a tack room, customer painted and fitted themselves before people comment that something isn't level!

Nothing overly exciting apart from they wanted all the little brackets to be different so they matched the wooden pegs you can just see in one of the photos which are very handmade and all individual.


----------



## Doug B

Ever since meeting John Wilson Home | Shakerovalbox a few years ago I’ve wanted to try making a shaker box, a friend cnc’d me some formers recently so over the weekend I’ve had a go.
This is purely a prototype that I’ve made as I’ve no previous practical experience of how they were made other than what John explained.
Made from aviation birch ply this was more to come up with a process as future ones will be made from steam bent veneer, that said I’m pleased with the outcome.


----------



## Cabinetman

That’s really super, reminds me a little bit of camembert boxes from years ago. Please excuse my ignorance, I’ve never heard of aviation Birch ply before and also what are the little copper rivets that you used. Ian


----------



## Doug B

The ply is aircraft grade it’s what they make some aeroplanes from, its 1.5mm thick & will bend easily round quite tight curves. Birch Plywood - Aircraft Plywood and Timber
The copper fixings are just like tiny tacks I bought these off John when I met him as I’d never seen anything like them here in the U.K.


----------



## Cabinetman

Thanks for that Doug.


----------



## Webbie

NickVanBeest said:


> What scale is that? N? Z?


Sorry its been a few days. That is N gauge. We had oo and n but then I sold all OO and got more n and merged it. 

It's going to take forever to do it. I am building it on the floor in my sons bed room and my knees are not what they used to be so a little every night as best I can. =)


----------



## flanajb

bjm said:


> Just put the first (of many) finish coats on this one, just to see - still have to do the base! Took many pics along the way and will post a WIP very soon, promise. Cherry, Am Black Walnut, Zebrano, Holly, Sapele, Beech, Plane. Lift-off lid.
> 
> View attachment 92932


That's some very nice veneering there.


----------



## flanajb

bjm said:


> Sometimes the wood speaks for itself.
> 
> I bought a bundle of oak veneer (sight unseen) for another job a while back. It has a gorgeous ripple down one portion of the leaf, as can be seen on the right side of the box. It does show on the top as well but not clear from the picture. Luckily, I only used a fraction of the bundle for the job so have the rest.
> 
> Oak veneer with Am Black walnut trim.
> 
> View attachment 92950


How did you get the grain to follow around the 90 degree as it looks continuous as if it hasn't been cut?


----------



## bjm

flanajb said:


> How did you get the grain to follow around the 90 degree as it looks continuous as if it hasn't been cut?


Thanks for the comments on the veneering. With most veneer you can get away with losing 1+ mm and it still looking seamless when you take the veneer around a corner. I cut the veneer where I want the join, glue the first piece in place with a small overhang (<1mm), sand back to the edge when the glue has set and then glue the adjoining piece (again with a small overhang that is sanded back later). 

The tricky part is to make sure there is no slippage when you clamp up. I use titebond and when I set the veneer in place I usually tape it with masking tape, clamp up for about 2-3 minutes (to allow the glue to 'grab'), remove the clamps and check nothing has moved before re-clamping. If there has been movement it's possible to peel the veneer off and re-set without too much problem - the masking tape stops most splits. Give it a try on some scraps?


----------



## NickVanBeest

Webbie said:


> Sorry its been a few days. That is N gauge. We had oo and n but then I sold all OO and got more n and merged it.
> 
> It's going to take forever to do it. I am building it on the floor in my sons bed room and my knees are not what they used to be so a little every night as best I can. =)


With you on the knees... same problem here 

Have a box of z scale in storage, but no space or time to make a table, so it will have to wait


----------



## marcros

Doug B said:


> Ever since meeting John Wilson Home | Shakerovalbox a few years ago I’ve wanted to try making a shaker box, a friend cnc’d me some formers recently so over the weekend I’ve had a go.
> This is purely a prototype that I’ve made as I’ve no previous practical experience of how they were made other than what John explained.
> Made from aviation birch ply this was more to come up with a process as future ones will be made from steam bent veneer, that said I’m pleased with the outcome.
> 
> 
> View attachment 93121
> View attachment 93122



could we see the formers?


----------



## Doug B

marcros said:


> could we see the formers?


These are the 3 sizes of formers being cut on the cnc Marcros






& these are they bolted together having the tabs from cnc’ing being removed


----------



## marcros

thanks. I am going to have a look further into these because they look ideal for a quick build once you have the formers sorted.


----------



## Shaggy

Last thing I made was trying Resin Coasters using a piece of oak flooring and Iron Maiden Trooper beer bottle tops.
May have to drink more beer and try again.


----------



## segovia

On the bench


----------



## bjm

segovia said:


> On the bench


Looks interesting. I was fortunate to see the real Segovia in the 80's, a few year before he passed away. He just about managed to make it onto the stage and only played half of what was on the schedule but once he sat down to play his performance was incredible.


----------



## Rorton

Most recent end grain cutting board - Walnut and Cherry

Lumber rough cut to size





Various 'blanks' made to form the centre, plus 3 different 'frames' to go around the centre






Blanks then cut to thickness (45mm) and exposing end grain






Blanks then glued together in stages - central walnut and cherry squares, then a cherry and small walnut 'border', then a solid walnut border, then another walnut border with sapwood - handles done with a 3/4 core box cutting bit on the router table






Soaked in mineral oil overnight, and then applied a beeswax/mineral oil finish


----------



## Droogs

That is lovely colour contrasting and a good solid looking block


----------



## thetyreman

made myself a clamp rack designed to hold 6 sash cramps, they are rutlands ones, I don't use them often but when I need them it's good to have them in one place, my only option was to hang it here even though the pipe is in the way, I could have made the top wider but it's too late, I used houndstooth dovetails for the joinery and a french cleat to secure it to the wall, it's the first time using fischer duo plugs as well and wow they are strong.


----------



## custard

Doug B said:


> Ever since meeting John Wilson Home | Shakerovalbox a few years ago I’ve wanted to try making a shaker box, a friend cnc’d me some formers recently so over the weekend I’ve had a go.
> This is purely a prototype that I’ve made as I’ve no previous practical experience of how they were made other than what John explained.
> Made from aviation birch ply this was more to come up with a process as future ones will be made from steam bent veneer, that said I’m pleased with the outcome.
> 
> 
> View attachment 93121



That looks a very tidy job. Most first attempts that I've seen are pretty gappy where the top band wraps around the top, where as yours looks really clean. Well done!



I believe that the great majority of original Shaker boxes had the bands running the other way round. In other words the "swallowtail" fingers point to the right rather than to the left.


----------



## Cabinetman

Hi Rorton, that cutting board is very good, particularly like the handles, any chance you could show us how you did them? I have made a couple but nothing so decorative just standard end on beech, just curious how you get yours flat prior to oiling. Ian


----------



## Nigel Burden

Rorton said:


> Most recent end grain cutting board - Walnut and Cherry
> 
> Lumber rough cut to size
> View attachment 93393
> 
> 
> Various 'blanks' made to form the centre, plus 3 different 'frames' to go around the centre
> 
> View attachment 93394
> 
> 
> Blanks then cut to thickness (45mm) and exposing end grain
> 
> View attachment 93395
> 
> 
> Blanks then glued together in stages - central walnut and cherry squares, then a cherry and small walnut 'border', then a solid walnut border, then another walnut border with sapwood - handles done with a 3/4 core box cutting bit on the router table
> 
> View attachment 93396
> 
> 
> Soaked in mineral oil overnight, and then applied a beeswax/mineral oil finish
> 
> View attachment 93397



I don't think I could use that. The thought of knife marks on it.


----------



## custard

marcros said:


> could we see the formers?



A few years ago I had a commission to make the tables for a restaurant. Chatting to the owner I floated the idea of using Shaker style oval boxes as bread baskets. The owner was interested, so in the great tradition of custom furniture makers I pulled a quote and a delivery date out of thin air! When the quote was accepted I then had to figure out to make them and hopefully turn a profit along the way. 

Subsequently I've made quite a few Shaker boxes, and you're right to ask about the formers because they're really the critical element in the whole process. 

You need a "plug", which is the former around which the hot timbers are bent, you then need two wedge shaped "formers", one for the top and one for the bottom, which are inserted into the freshly riveted box so it will hold its shape while drying. Finally, I made one master template for each size box, which I could subsequently use to make as many additional plugs and formers as required. From a practical point of view it really makes sense to produce several Shaker boxes each time you fire up the water trough/steam box, and you'll need a pair of formers for each box you make.

My starting point was to use and appropriate programme (ie Photoshop or Sketch Up for example), to draw the elipse profile. I then stuck that down to a piece of 18mm water proof MDF in order to make the master template.






Next step was to bandsaw around the profile, staying about 0.5-1.0 mm outside the line. 






I then used a disc sander to work down to the line. 






You could use a spokeshave to do the final shaping, and on many jobs that's what I'll do. But you'll see later that a disc sander is especially useful when making the wedge shaped formers, therefore I used a disc sander throughout. 

Next step was to use this master template to draw an outline on some good quality birch ply. I put a sleeve over a red pencil lead so that acted as a bearing so the line was just over 1mm larger than the master template. The disc sander was then tilted by 10 degrees so when I sanded to the line it would produce a wedge shaped former. You can see the general idea here, on the top are the two wedge shaped formers in birch ply, on the bottom is the MDF master template.






If you look closely you can see that these formers are larger than the master template on one face, but smaller on the other face. This means they can wedge into the Shaker Oval Box like a cork in a bottle and hold the shape while it dries overnight. 

Next step is to make the "plug" the oval dummy around which the hot, wet veneer gets wrapped to form the basic shape before being riveted.

I chose to make the plugs from softwood because I wanted the plug to be virtually the same height as the width of the veneer that will be wrapped around it. This makes it easier to register it at both top and bottom, and ensures the veneer goes on straight rather than spiralling around the plug. It's much easier to thickness solid timber rather than MDF or ply. So I machined a board so that it was exactly one third of the final thickness I wanted, and used the master template to draw out three profiles.






Next step is to bandsaw these three ovals slightly oversize.






So now I have a stack of three rough cut ovals.






It's time for dinner so I'll break here and finish the story later!


----------



## custard

Carrying on with showing how I made the formers for Shaker Oval Boxes.

The next step is to temporarily attach the master template to one of the three rough cut, softwood ovals. Here it's being screwed in place while ensuring there's an overhang on the softwood oval all the way around.











The idea is to use a copy routing bit to profile the softwood oval so that it _exactly_ copies the master template. This photo shows the general arrangement, with the bearing following the MDF master template and the cutter profiling the softwood oval underneath it.






Here's a close up showing it in more detail,






And here it is on the router table with the guarding in place. I should add that you can get clever devices that provide a "lead in" to the cutter and prevent any risk of it snatching. I do this kind of work day in, day out, so I'm comfortable without it, but anyone who doesn't regularly use a router for copy work should think about using one.






Now here's the clever bit! You detach the master template, and then glue and screw the machined softwood oval on top of another oversized softwood blank. In effect the machined softwood oval now serves as the master template, and the bearing runs against it and therefore machines the second blank as a perfect copy. Having machined the second blank you then glue and screw the third blank in it's place and repeat the process. So what you finally have is a perfect "plug" 






Anyhow Marcros, if you're thinking about making a Shaker Oval Box and you need any help drop me a PM. I often work with truly spectacular Cherry and Maple boards such as these,













I'll often machine off-cuts from boards like these into veneers of the correct thickness for Shaker Oval Boxes. I still owe you Marcros for your generosity with the metallic dyes, so if you decide to progress with Shaker Boxes let me know and I'll put a veneer set on one side for you.


----------



## Rorton

Cabinetman said:


> Hi Rorton, that cutting board is very good, particularly like the handles, any chance you could show us how you did them? I have made a couple but nothing so decorative just standard end on beech, just curious how you get yours flat prior to oiling. Ian



Thank you Ian  it doesn't take much for me to create a project thread - so ive posted all my steps here for you



Nigel Burden said:


> I don't think I could use that. The thought of knife marks on it.



Haha, I sort of thought the same thing, but it is what it is, and I did make it to use it - I am obsessing about oil/waxing it though.


----------



## flanajb

bjm said:


> Thanks for the comments on the veneering. With most veneer you can get away with losing 1+ mm and it still looking seamless when you take the veneer around a corner. I cut the veneer where I want the join, glue the first piece in place with a small overhang (<1mm), sand back to the edge when the glue has set and then glue the adjoining piece (again with a small overhang that is sanded back later).
> 
> The tricky part is to make sure there is no slippage when you clamp up. I use titebond and when I set the veneer in place I usually tape it with masking tape, clamp up for about 2-3 minutes (to allow the glue to 'grab'), remove the clamps and check nothing has moved before re-clamping. If there has been movement it's possible to peel the veneer off and re-set without too much problem - the masking tape stops most splits. Give it a try on some scraps?


Thanks for the explanation.


----------



## AndyT

Doug B said:


> The copper fixings are just like tiny tacks I bought these off John when I met him as I’d never seen anything like them here in the U.K.


Copper fixings for Shaker boxes are available in the UK, imported from the USA:





__





Shaker nails


5mm or 8mm copper tacks used in the production of shaker boxes and furniture. Made in Charlotte, Michigan on 19th century equipment. Round headed and with a slightly flattened shank to help prevent splitting along the grain. Traditionally used more like




www.objectsofuse.com


----------



## Cabinetman

Thanks, yes I will devour that with great interest. Ian


----------



## Jester129

Rorton said:


> Most recent end grain cutting board - Walnut and Cherry
> 
> Lumber rough cut to size
> View attachment 93393
> 
> 
> Various 'blanks' made to form the centre, plus 3 different 'frames' to go around the centre
> 
> View attachment 93394
> 
> 
> Blanks then cut to thickness (45mm) and exposing end grain
> 
> View attachment 93395
> 
> 
> Blanks then glued together in stages - central walnut and cherry squares, then a cherry and small walnut 'border', then a solid walnut border, then another walnut border with sapwood - handles done with a 3/4 core box cutting bit on the router table
> 
> View attachment 93396
> 
> 
> Soaked in mineral oil overnight, and then applied a beeswax/mineral oil finish
> 
> View attachment 93397


Rorton, stunning.


----------



## Antho

Jester129 said:


> Rorton, stunning.


looks great mate....


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

I’ve just finished making a magnetic knife holder for my new knives  (as discussed in the general off topic post). I’ve had this nicely figured board (I bought it as sweet chestnut) for a few years, so hopefully this does the board some justice. Also plenty of room for any possible future expansion of knives.













I think I went a little overboard with the number of magnets I used! I filled the holes with resin to hopefully give the board more stability. As I used a forstener bit for the larger magnet holes, I set the magnets maybe around 7mm mill beneath the top surface to avoid the centre point of the Forstner bit breaking through the top surface. But the strength of the magnets is just about right though. I’ve also covered the back with some felt so no scratches to the wall. Only thing I forgot to do though is brand it with my mark before putting the felt on


----------



## Setch

I made this table, to replace the folding patio table we've been eating at since before lockdown. With 3 year old and a 1 year old, cleaning between the slats of the patio table was getting very old, very quickly. 

The new table is all recycled material, the legs are from a previous table I made for my brother years ago, and the top is worktop salvaged from kitchen I replaced a for a friend. 

It is almost certainly the ugliest table I've ever seen. The proportions are all wrong. When I eventually replace it I'll try actually designing something rather than letting the material dimensions dictate things. It was a little dispiriting to assemble it for the first time and see quote what a monstrosity I'd created.


----------



## Cabinetman

Well it looks fine to me, well done, and no nasty corners for the little ones to bash into. Ian


----------



## Doug71

Finished this off today, display unit for the local deli.

About 4' high x 5' wide, all MDF.


----------



## Roland

October is the month for clearing the garden, and I’ve pulled out a Pyracanthus which was at least 30 years old. Our American cousins call it Fire Thorn. When turned wet it looks like this. The turning is nothing special, but the grain is dramatic.


----------



## Doug B

It is indeed Roland looks similar to Zebrano from you photo


----------



## Doug B

Made this window Sunday afternoon, it’s a replacement for a concrete sectional garage 4’x26” high in unsorted redwood.




Sanded it up this evening & cut the glazing trim to size, just needs a couple of coats of Sikkens.


----------



## Cabinetman

The photo just cuts off the bottom corner, can’t see if you’ve got a drip rail/groove, essential to stop water running back under the frame. Ian looks nicely made by the way


----------



## marcros

This is exactly what I need for my garage!


----------



## Doug B

Cabinetman said:


> The photo just cuts off the bottom corner, can’t see if you’ve got a drip rail/groove, essential to stop water running back under the frame. Ian looks nicely made by the way


It has,the original didn’t have a cill & the bottom rail had completely rotted away as the water held on the concrete, this is it prior to being glued in place.


----------



## Doug71

That window is wasted in a concrete sectional garage ☹


----------



## DamoF

Firstly sorry for the bad photo! I made these three sound diffuser/absorbers for a producers home studio. RWA45 acoustic insulation in the back of the panels covered with black cotton fabric. The vertical slats fan out and become ever so slightly concave as they reach the edges. The idea is any sound hitting them from any angle is deflected into the panel or scattered horizontally to be captured by other deep absorbers I also made which are placed on the side walls. These are on the wall directly behind where he sits in the studio. 

The sound in that room is exceptionally clear...


----------



## El Barto

Every time I visit this thread I'm always wowed by what everyone's been up to and the quality of the work.

I recently made some small decorative trusses for this memorial pergola which were then beautifully carved by a friend of the client with a rose on one side and an owl on other. Nice lil job. There's one to enclose each gable.

Edit: I didn't make the overall structure.


----------



## ey_tony

What with inclement weather and illness, it seems like everything is conspiring against me and a lifetime since I first started knocking together a Catio for my two BSH cats.
I constructed it completely sectional so that if I needed to urgently access anywhere it covers, I could strip it with the minimum of effort in minutes so it actually very often took longer to think through than construct.
Everything is screwed with no nails used other than for the roof felt and shingles.

The weather has been my biggest headache. I have COPD and heart failure but I can plod along as long as the weather up holds but it's not been my friend for much of the time when I was able to do the work. I first started in July and now it's almost complete.

All I have to do is remove the protective temporary skirt and fit a scribed 4 x 1" permanent replacement. There is also 4 pieces of cladding to fit to bottom right corner to screen off the covered litter tray..
I fitted the pet mesh to the outside of the framing which was 2" x 2" eased edge carcassing so that the fastenings for the mesh couldn't be seen from inside the house. The outside I intend to face with 2 x 1 or 4 x 1 to hide the mesh fastening and make it look more presentable.

The 'shed' end houses a double cupboard to store several packs of cat litter material as well as litter tray cleaning materials and a place to store their two large carriers we use to transport them to our caravan sited 100 miles away. Fortunately, although the carriers are quite large even for two cats each going on for 7kg, they dissemble with the top fitting inside the bottom and the cupboard was designed to accept those.
There's also a lockable access door so that we can remove the covered litter box to clean it should they use it!

The barrel bolts on the door are only temporary as I used what I had left in my shed as a temporary measure but for security I'll fit a pair of decent galvanised Brenton bolts as replacements.
I've made sure that the roofs will withstand gales so there should be no blowing off due to wind getting under the edges.
Having never cut it before I wasn't sure how to cut the polycarbonate roof sheets but by testing different cutting methods on what would be the wasted areas, I found that a multitool with a half round blade was the best choice and with care and some masking tape to follow it gave very neat cut edges that only needed a quick wipe with some 240 grit to finish it off.

We weren't sure whether the cats would use it as they are house cats and so far it's been a case of mixed reception. They don't spend long out there but it's early days and they're still getting used to wind and outside noises.
If they don't use it my daughter who bred both of my two cats would love it so it won't go to waste.

I'll also be glad when I finally finish it this week so that I can get tidied up and put my compound mitre saw and stand under cover instead of being out there since I started the project covered by a tarpaulin which I had to often throw on quickly when it suddenly rained!

When I was assembling it, I ran our of Barrettine which I use to protect it and it was out of stock in the colour 'Golden Brown' for a while when I wanted it so now that I've got some that's the last job to do. 






..and this is Jasper enjoying a bit of fresh air!


----------



## Cabinetman

Catio, thanks for that, I do like discovering a new word, I just wish my neighbours had heard of it!
Looks a very competent piece of work Tony.


----------



## Fitzroy

Catio looks great, very neatly made, beaut cat as well.


----------



## bourbon

I've been on a quest this year to improve my woodworking. I think it has worked. Unfortunately, It's for the ashes of a dog.


----------



## ey_tony

Cabinetman said:


> Catio, thanks for that, I do like discovering a new word, I just wish my neighbours had heard of it!
> Looks a very competent piece of work Tony.



Thanks Cabinetman. 
I confess I'd never heard of the word 'Catio' until maybe a year ago, up until then I would have called it an enclosure  

I have a Church Organ Builder background in woodwork so such as this has been a challenge for me, not in skills but in actual working methods. 
It was as a teenager that I first learned my woodwork skills on a bench and therefore carpentry like this that was conducted off a bench as was using power tools was always quite foreign to me though I have used my woodwork skills over the years when restoring the houses I've owned but I am far from being a natural carpenter and would have been far too slow to make a living from it on building sites etc!

I did however over the years love making pieces of reproduction furniture for my home, using many of the traditional ways of construction hundreds of years ago and up until being taken seriously ill six years ago, almost everything I did was done by hand and not machine and I had hardly any power tools or reliance on them but that changed when I was taken ill as I wasn't able to push along a 2 foot long steel plane any more.

My garage which I use as a workshop these days is at the front of the house so it would have been impossible as well as impractical for me to do the work on this project from there so I had to move my Metabo mitre saw and extending stand which was one of my primary tools to the work area and work from there without a bench so I was learning new skills...a case of an old dog learning new tricks suppose!
It was only after being unable to do any or even the slightest exhaustive work through illness that I adopted power tools into my world.. Up until that point I'd not used tables saws or planer/thicknessers or circular saws...all would have been done by hand but if I wanted to still do a bit of woodwork, then it was either doing much of it with power tools or nothing so using power tools it was for me. 

I have a 10" table saw which has been invaluable in ripping down lengths of timber to size and also a budget planer/thicknesser which saves a heck of a lot of work which I couldn't do now so those tools have breathed new life into one that was effectively over but it just shows that just because illness overtakes you, it's still possible to do some of the things you once loved doing even if not by hand.


----------



## ey_tony

Fitzroy said:


> Catio looks great, very neatly made, beaut cat as well.



Thanks Fitzroy.
He's a lovely cat in fact they both are and neither would ever scratch or bite, but that's just how we've reared them from kittens. They aren't allowed out to trouble the neighbours or wildlife and we give them plenty of exercise through play so they're very happy, fit and unstressed cats.

We feared that they would have loved to be out there most of the time instead of being indoors which is why I constructed the 'shed' end to give them a bit of extra weather protection but while they seem to enjoy a few minutes at a time out there, they're just as happy being indoors.

We shall see how that changes next summer as I've noticed they are not exactly keen on being out there when it's cold.
This is the two of them together....


----------



## lee66

This is what im on with recently, its not quite finished yet but almost there 



Not had chance to make much recently, apart from this the last thing I made was 2-3 months ago! Trying to get back into it again though


----------



## Dr Al

Today I made (or at least sort-of-finished-making) a plank of wood out of lots of offcuts of four different hardwoods, all cut into equal width strips and glued together:






It's a bit over 240 mm deep, about 820 mm long and about 9 mm thick. The plan is currently to trim it into a rounded-rectangle sort of shape and use it as a monitor stand for my two monitors, but having seen it, I'm wondering if it might be a bit of a shame to cover a significant proportion of it with the bases of the two monitors, so I might use it for something else.

There are quite a few imperfections (and a couple of aligned joints that I tried really hard to avoid, but must have done something wrong in the glue-up), but as this was my first attempt at something like that, I'm really pleased with how it has come out.


----------



## Fitzroy

My eyes refuse to see that as straight, all I see is wobbles. Curious effect but nicely done.


----------



## GarF

Unavoidably spending more time sitting and less time doing at work this year. Getting a bit fed up with dull and not terribly comfortable chairs I decided to make my own. Currently plotting a garish paint job which will hopefully keep my colleagues off it!


----------



## Cabinetman

Nicely executed chair there Garf, I would just say the last time I made a tall stool with three legs I kept falling off it. So please do be careful. Ian
Is the back cut out of solid by the way?


----------



## GarF

No, it’s steam bent ash. The spindles are ash and the rest is redwood. It’s Chris Schwarz’s design with Pete Galbert’s legs. I’m fairly pleased with it, but you’re right, I think it would punish the nappish!


----------



## Cabinetman

I think we are overdue a bit on steam bending, I’ve only done it once and it’s something I want to do again, don’t suppose you have any pictures of your work in progress on that? Would love to see it, thanks Ian


----------



## Droogs

Would it not be more stable if the back had the pair of legs and the front the single leg once you lean back in the chair. is lovely though and impressive joinery


----------



## GarF

Intuitively that would be the case. I think when leaning backward the tendency will be for the weight of the sitters legs to counterbalance the weight of the trunk, whereas with a single front leg there would be no such counterbalance and so it might be easier to tip it over by leaning forward off centre. Honestly I don't know. I'll file my first incident report here!

Didn't get any pictures of the steaming, only the very crude bending form....





I get the steam from an earlex steam stripper, connected to a very crude plywood box.
G


----------



## Cabinetman

Thanks Garf, definitely enough force there! The bit that I steam bent was 3/4 “ square-ish by about 5 feet long and when it came out of the box it was like wet spaghetti – almost -ish. 
Important thing Garf, is that it worked.


----------



## Illy

GarF said:


> Unavoidably spending more time sitting and less time doing at work this year. Getting a bit fed up with dull and not terribly comfortable chairs I decided to make my own. Currently plotting a garish paint job which will hopefully keep my colleagues off it!
> 
> View attachment 94278


I hope the painting comment was in jest ? I love the look of ash. Love the design, very funky and perfect for modern uneven floors !


----------



## Dr Al

It's my OH's birthday on Monday. She casually mentioned on Thursday that it would be nice if I made her some "pattern weights" for sewing (for holding down the pattern while marking out or something ). Basically some lumps of metal or other heavy stuff, somewhere in the 70-100 gram area. She emphasised that she didn't expect me to make them in time for her birthday, but I thought it was worth a go anyway as they're not a complicated thing to make.

Rather than just making what are essentially thick washers, I decided to give them some very rounded edges and drill a hole through the middle. That hole meant that I could also make a stand for them out of some walnut & stainless steel. It was nice to have an excuse to get the lathe up and running again as it's been a while since I had a project that needed that much turning.

The bits:






The underside of the stand before the uprights were glued in:






The finished article - just needs a bit more time for the finish on the wood to dry and then I'll wrap it up:


----------



## Blister

Very nice project , The wife should be varry happy


----------



## Benchwayze

Walnut, brass and steel. Nice contrasts. Lovely work. Happy Birthday to your your lady . John


----------



## George..

Hi all, this is a Hawksbill Turtle I’ve finished recently, it’s about 9” long and carved out of Lime,(which I buy from G & S in Penrith). Now working on its big brother also in Lime about 12” long. The markings are done with fine tipped Sharpie pens. Finished with one coat Danish oil after a few days then three coats clear liquid wax. 






George


----------



## Steliz

Still a work in progress, the panels to fence the sides of the Pergola I've just finished.


----------



## Cordy

Hi Steve
Will you be showing us your pergola when finished ?
I need ideas to make a small pergola - limited space -
For climbing rose Gertrude Jekyll Due mid November from 
David Austin
cheers
John


----------



## MarkDennehy

Made a desk ornament for a local podcast crowd whose logo looks like this:






Nothing terribly special (my newfound respect for hot melt glue blocks in the lathe notwithstanding), but I thought it came out nice and they liked it.














_“The tortoise lays on its back, its belly baking in the hot sun, beating its legs trying to turn itself over but it can’t. Not without your help. But you’re not helping. Why is that Leon?” _


----------



## Steliz

Cordy said:


> Hi Steve
> Will you be showing us your pergola when finished ?
> I need ideas to make a small pergola - limited space -
> For climbing rose Gertrude Jekyll Due mid November from
> David Austin
> cheers
> John


Yes John, I'm just getting these panels finished, then laquered, then installed. Should be a few more days, weather permitting.
Steve


----------



## Droogs

"cos it's lunchtime" said Leon the  

really nice tortoise BTW


----------



## Dandan

Not entirely recent but the last thing I think I finished! It's a plant propogator for growing cuttings. Design creep is in full effect, it started as a square frame, now its round with a bearing so it spins like a lazy susan!





Made of elm and finished with wax


----------



## Gary james

undergroundhunter said:


> Made this for the wife yesterday. My first real dovetails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matt


----------



## Droogs

very nicely done clean and tight


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## Benchwayze

_A good place to start. Nice work. 
John_


----------



## Sheptonphil

The Mrs has just acquired new hearing aids that sit in a charger overnight. She didn’t like it that the ear buds were exposed to the air overnight, and there is a pair of pulsing LEDs which are like a lighthouse in a dark room.

knocked up this little charging station with a closable lid. Keeps them clean, and no lights shining in the room.

made from an offcut of mahogany With elephant Mandela etched into the front.


----------



## Cabinetman

Very nice Phil, just check they don’t overheat whilst charging though. Ian


----------



## Sheptonphil

Cabinetman said:


> Very nice Phil, just check they don’t overheat whilst charging though. Ian


Thanks Ian, I did check after a few hours charging as I had that concern, but charger and aids were still cold. It’s wireless charging, not sure if that makes any difference to heat production.


----------



## Cheesehound

Oh that's neat, Phil.


----------



## bp122

Made these a few weeks ago as my first ever DIY tool.


----------



## Ronan James

I am currently making these acoustic panels for my studio. The mdf will be primed and painted to fit the colour scheme. 100mm RW3 rockwool covered in fabric forms the backing of these panels and they are hung in an array from the ceiling @ 12 degree angles. The effect is that they diffuse any flutter echo that exists between the floor and the ceiling


----------



## Fitzroy

bp122 said:


> Made these a few weeks ago as my first ever DIY tool.



They look simple to make, are they effective?

F.


----------



## bp122

Fitzroy said:


> They look simple to make, are they effective?
> 
> F.


That's the thing. I don't know 

Made these as per the instructions on the YouTube channel, Pask Makes. My dining table converted workbench has no dog holes for me to try these on. Need to get around to making a few holes just to try these out. 

But in the channel, I saw it was very effective. Not as durable or heavy duty as the forged ones, of course, but good enough for majority of tasks apparently.


----------



## thetyreman

Ronan James said:


> I am currently making these acoustic panels for my studio. The mdf will be primed and painted to fit the colour scheme. 100mm RW3 rockwool covered in fabric forms the backing of these panels and they are hung in an array from the ceiling @ 12 degree angles. The effect is that they diffuse any flutter echo that exists between the floor and the ceiling



interesting, how did you calculate the hole sizes? as in the perforation percentage? and why did you use MDF out of interest? say instead of plywood or solid wood slats?


----------



## Sean33

Not quite finished yet, drawer to be fitted properly and a few more coats of finish but nearly there


----------



## h-magic

I built this for my little boy a while back now. Hardly get time to build things at home.

His ever growing collection of nerf guns.
Made of 18mm MRMDF with some dowels and sprayed in PU paint.


----------



## Heath Robinson

A fairly comprehensive compost loo was my last effort


----------



## Cabinetman

Hi Heath, looks competently done, I’m just concerned that it’s not fastened down in anyway and with that porch it could blow over/away in a gale. And I’m just curious what the little door is for. Ian


----------



## PaulArthur

Right then. This is my second ever piece of furniture - two and a half hard weeks for meet a deadline. Pretty pleased with it -
Glad to be having a week or two off. Is though!
For the top I cut veneers using a band saw, and then the bottom and sides are standard veneers, all with chunky solid lipping. The base is solid. Very heavy, and hopefully child-resistant!


----------



## Hornbeam

Very nice piece Paul. I like the top and the 3 way mitre joints at the corners


----------



## Steliz

Nice table Paul. I like the effect you've gone for on the top.


----------



## Cabinetman

For only your second piece of furniture this is extremely impressive!
I’m curious about the drawer or is it drawers in one shot you’ve got the drawers level and then the left-hand drawer goes in further, is it one of those that goes right through the cabinet so you can get to it from either side? 
And you have quite a gap between the drawer sides and the carcass, is there a runner in there of some sort? Ian


----------



## ajsimmo

Just creating my first workshop area here in Alderney. I'm an absolute beginner, so had to follow a YouTube tutorial to knock up these 2 benches. I know I'm very lucky to have this space, so I want to do it justice from the start.


----------



## custard

PaulArthur said:


> This is my second ever piece of furniture....For the top I cut veneers using a band saw



That is a simply astonishing achievement. I could see how a beginner might just scrape through with the carcass, but to handle relatively large, saw cut veneers like that is just amazing. How did you joint the veneers together into that "sun-ray" pattern, and how did you bond it to the substrate?


----------



## PaulArthur

Cabinetman said:


> For only your second piece of furniture this is extremely impressive!
> I’m curious about the drawer or is it drawers in one shot you’ve got the drawers level and then the left-hand drawer goes in further, is it one of those that goes right through the cabinet so you can get to it from either side?
> And you have quite a gap between the drawer sides and the carcass, is there a runner in there of some sort? Ian


There’s one drawer that fills the whole of the left hand side of the carcass, and the right hand side is empty, with a sliding front that opens in front of the drawer on the left. There is a Blum runner on the drawer, to allow me to push the drawer front to get it to bounce back open, as I didn’t have any clearance to put a handle on the drawer front because of the sliding front that crosses it. 

Does that make sense?


----------



## Cabinetman

Perfect sense thank you, I like those push to open fittings. We expect great things of your next project lol.


----------



## PaulArthur

custard said:


> That is a simply astonishing achievement. I could see how a beginner might just scrape through with the carcass, but to handle relatively large, saw cut veneers like that is just amazing. How did you joint the veneers together into that "sun-ray" pattern, and how did you bond it to the substrate?


Thank you - it was a lot of work, but I’m really happy with it!
I cut the veneers myself using a big band saw at the local woodworking college - I go there once a week for some supervised workshop time. I then cut them roughly to size using a jig saw, and then got them exact by running a router along the edges, using a straight edge and a bearing guided trim bit. I glued them to the substrate (30mm MRMDF) using a bag press that I found on Facebook marketplace, going cheaply and just down the road. Got lucky with that one!


----------



## PaulArthur

Cabinetman said:


> Perfect sense thank you, I like those push to open fittings. We expect great things of your next project lol.


It’s toy boxes next for the kids, but then I’ve got a pile of ash to get through and a wall that needs a big fancy book case... going to do a star burst pattern on that one too, I think, but in a different way.


----------



## Cabinetman

Great, well you know what we want on here – lots of work in progress pictures. And that includes the toy boxes! 
No pressure ha ha


----------



## NickM

I’ve posted one of these before, but I’ve made another box. This one is a Christmas present for a nephew (I’ve got another in progress).


----------



## Cooper

I really like this chest. I have wanted to make one like it for some time. I am curious why you have a plinth and about he plugs or dowels on the lid. Are they just a feature or are they holding tenons in? I had to have a turkey oak cut down, as it was too close to the house and had it converted into boards so I could make a chest from it.
I have a problem that even though I seasoned the boards for a long time, stacked on batons, they have curled a bit so I need to rip them into strips, square, thickness then joint back. This is all a bit too much, even for this fit old man, to do by hand and I wonder if anyone knows of a local workshop in south east London, ideally Bromley where I could take the boards to prepare them?
Thanks
Martin


----------



## SteL

PaulArthur said:


> Right then. This is my second ever piece of furniture - two and a half hard weeks for meet a deadline. Pretty pleased with it -
> Glad to be having a week or two off. Is though!
> For the top I cut veneers using a band saw, and then the bottom and sides are standard veneers, all with chunky solid lipping. The base is solid. Very heavy, and hopefully child-resistant!



Please tell me that this is your second piece of furniture, but you're a professional musical instrument maker or I might as well give up now! 

Well done, It looks great.


----------



## Woodmouse

PaulArthur said:


> Right then. This is my second ever piece of furniture - two and a half hard weeks for meet a deadline. Pretty pleased with it -
> Glad to be having a week or two off. Is though!
> For the top I cut veneers using a band saw, and then the bottom and sides are standard veneers, all with chunky solid lipping. The base is solid. Very heavy, and hopefully child-resistant!



Another excellent piece of work. They're some truly talented people on this forum.


----------



## NickM

Cooper said:


> I really like this chest. I have wanted to make one like it for some time. I am curious why you have a plinth and about he plugs or dowels on the lid. Are they just a feature or are they holding tenons in? I had to have a turkey oak cut down, as it was too close to the house and had it converted into boards so I could make a chest from it.
> I have a problem that even though I seasoned the boards for a long time, stacked on batons, they have curled a bit so I need to rip them into strips, square, thickness then joint back. This is all a bit too much, even for this fit old man, to do by hand and I wonder if anyone knows of a local workshop in south east London, ideally Bromley where I could take the boards to prepare them?
> Thanks
> Martin



The plinth is there principally to deal with the base of the box. The box has a plywood base (so I don't have to worry about wood movement). I could have put it in a slot or in a rebate in the sides, but it's not very easy to cut those when you have through dovetails (you need to do stopped grooves/rebates so they don't show on the outside). My solution (and I've no idea if it's the right one!) was to simply glue and pin the ply base to the bottom of the sides and then add the plinth to cover it all. The plinth extends underneath so it covers the pins underneath as well (picture of the box bottom below). It's a bit of a faff to make the plinth to be honest but I quite like the look of it.






The dowels are part of the "breadboard ends". If the lid was made just with a single piece running all the way across the box, there would be a strong possibility of that warping (twisting or cupping). Breadboard ends are designed to keep it all flat. The centre piece has three tenons on each side running into mortises on the end pieces. The dowels run through the ends and the hidden tenons. The centre tenon has a snug fit and is glued in and the dowel also fits snugly in the hole in the tenon. The two outer tenons are not glued, have oversized mortises, and the holes for the dowels are elongated to for wood movement.

I hope this explanation is clear without going into masses of detail. I'm making another lid at the moment and will try to take some pictures as I go along. If you google breadboard ends you'll find some more fulsome explanations.


----------



## bp122

PaulArthur said:


> Right then. This is my second ever piece of furniture - two and a half hard weeks for meet a deadline. Pretty pleased with it -
> Glad to be having a week or two off. Is though!
> For the top I cut veneers using a band saw, and then the bottom and sides are standard veneers, all with chunky solid lipping. The base is solid. Very heavy, and hopefully child-resistant!


Looks spectacular!


----------



## Benchwayze

Lovely tool chest. Nice workmanship and aesthetic finish. I think you'll find that this type of chest was usually made by an apprentice over the term of his indenture. It would be envisaged that the chest would be carried around the country as the 'journey man' looked for work. So a plinth at the bottom and a dust seal around the lid not only looked well, but also protected the chest itself . The plinth also lifts the chest off the floor as a measure against damp. Having said that I'm only a Brummie so I could be wrong.

John 
.


----------



## bjm

Came across this whilst looking for someting else today! Made a while ago - American Black Walnut and..........American Black Walnut - this is the difference between the heartwood and sapwood.


----------



## Droogs

How wide was that board originally? That is some damn wide sapwood or very good slip matching to get that grain line up


----------



## bjm

Droogs said:


> How wide was that board originally? That is some damn wide sapwood or very good slip matching to get that grain line up


I had a load of 2" boards that were around 12" wide. It's hard to see the sap on some of the boards without cleaning them up and this one was a left-over from the job. To be honest, it wasn't that big a section of the plank so I decided to make use of it instead.


----------



## XH558

Walney Col said:


> A tiny belt, dome, and disc sander for intarsia pieces. It's powered by a 60W motor from a floor-standing fan and works surprisingly well.
> 
> View attachment 28263
> 
> View attachment 28264
> 
> View attachment 28265


Sorry but I gotta ask, does it oscillate?


----------



## NickM

NickM said:


> The plinth is there principally to deal with the base of the box. The box has a plywood base (so I don't have to worry about wood movement). I could have put it in a slot or in a rebate in the sides, but it's not very easy to cut those when you have through dovetails (you need to do stopped grooves/rebates so they don't show on the outside). My solution (and I've no idea if it's the right one!) was to simply glue and pin the ply base to the bottom of the sides and then add the plinth to cover it all. The plinth extends underneath so it covers the pins underneath as well (picture of the box bottom below). It's a bit of a faff to make the plinth to be honest but I quite like the look of it.
> 
> View attachment 95127
> 
> 
> The dowels are part of the "breadboard ends". If the lid was made just with a single piece running all the way across the box, there would be a strong possibility of that warping (twisting or cupping). Breadboard ends are designed to keep it all flat. The centre piece has three tenons on each side running into mortises on the end pieces. The dowels run through the ends and the hidden tenons. The centre tenon has a snug fit and is glued in and the dowel also fits snugly in the hole in the tenon. The two outer tenons are not glued, have oversized mortises, and the holes for the dowels are elongated to for wood movement.
> 
> I hope this explanation is clear without going into masses of detail. I'm making another lid at the moment and will try to take some pictures as I go along. If you google breadboard ends you'll find some more fulsome explanations.



As mentioned in an earlier post, I’m making a second box and said I would take a photo of the breadboard joinery.

You can see the oversize mortises and dowel holes for the outer tenons. These allow for wood movement.


----------



## blackteaonesugar

I made a set of desks for some friends who've had a few things from me now.
Birch ply, natural and dyed, prime Oak.
I made a mini version of dad's desk for their little boy while I was at it 



Untitled by blackteaonesugar, on Flickr



Untitled by blackteaonesugar, on Flickr



Untitled by blackteaonesugar, on Flickr



Untitled by blackteaonesugar, on Flickr



Untitled by blackteaonesugar, on Flickr

blackteaonesugar


----------



## bp122

My first attempt at a box. Went wrong on many things, but ended up finishing it for my mum's birthday. 

As you can see, it does ignore almost all rules of box making.


----------



## Ronan James

thetyreman said:


> interesting, how did you calculate the hole sizes? as in the perforation percentage? and why did you use MDF out of interest? say instead of plywood or solid wood slats?


Hi, I went for a 60 : 40 ratio of reflection to absorption. These panels will form part of an array which are hung from the ceiling at a 12 degree angle as per the 3d model below. There is an aesthetic appeal to this design also.


----------



## Sachakins

A few more turning projects this week.




Oak, Mahogany, iroko, Tulip Wood laminated bowl.





First segmented bowl vase.




My first dizzy egg lamination.








A Purpleheart bowl.

All finished with Yorkshire Grit and Hampshire Sheen high Lustre paste.


----------



## thetyreman

Ronan James said:


> Hi, I went for a 60 : 40 ratio of reflection to absorption. These panels will form part of an array which are hung from the ceiling at a 12 degree angle as per the 3d model below. There is an aesthetic appeal to this design also.



that looks good, so you're building QRD diffusers then? I build one this year and it was a hell of a challenge, mainly because I did it with hand tools, I was actually surprised at how difficult it was and how time consuming it is but boy do they make a difference.

I'd love to see the final studio once complete, my main passion outside of woodworking is audio and audio engineering, as well as acoustics e.t.c, aesthetics are very important.


----------



## Cooper

NickM said:


> As mentioned in an earlier post, I’m making a second box and said I would take a photo of the breadboard joinery.
> 
> You can see the oversize mortises and dowel holes for the outer tenons. These allow for wood movement.
> 
> View attachment 95195
> 
> 
> View attachment 95196


Thanks for showing this, I followed your direction to look on google but its much better to see as work in progress.
Cheers
Martin


----------



## D_W

forging and hand shaping chisels out of older files. 






Or at least attempting to make something of that sort- something that looks and feels like an old lighter profile English tang file with bolster.


----------



## PaulArthur

SteL said:


> Please tell me that this is your second piece of furniture, but you're a professional musical instrument maker or I might as well give up now!
> 
> Well done, It looks great.


No, sorry. I’m not a maker other than what I’ve shown above.


----------



## Cabinetman

Hi Blackteaonesugar, very nice work, love the way you angled back to plywood edge around the drawers.
What did you use to dye it red please? I can see dads desk with the three drawers and then I can see the smallest unit for his boy, what is the one in between used for with the pull-out tray arrangement ?


----------



## Illy

Less than 60 workshop days until Christmas !

Easy to do but a great way of using those small hardwood offcuts which I can never bring myself to throw away.


----------



## Mal-110

Here is my contribution. My wife needed a hall or console table and this is what I came up with. The wood is all elm, except for the drawer sides and runners. It is my third piece of furniture and I was looking to match the grain. What I have learned so far is that a beautiful piece of wood takes the eye off not quite so beautiful joinery. But my wife likes it so job done.


----------



## NickM

Mal-110 said:


> Here is my contribution. My wife needed a hall or console table and this is what I came up with. The wood is all elm, except for the drawer sides and runners. It is my third piece of furniture and I was looking to match the grain. What I have learned so far is that a beautiful piece of wood takes the eye off not quite so beautiful joinery. But my wife likes it so job done.View attachment 95425


Lovely work. It looks great.


----------



## thetyreman

very nice @Mal-110 and rare to see elm as well, great for only a third piece, are the drawers dovetailed? I like the front piece and how the grain runs continuously as one


----------



## Mal-110

Unfortunately the drawers are just plain redwood and I hesitate to say they are joined with pocket hole screws and glue. Next time I will make them with dovetails. The Elm planks finish well but are difficult to work with grain all over the place.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Elm often responds well to cross planing (probably why it turns well).


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Cabinetman said:


> Hi Blackteaonesugar, very nice work, love the way you angled back to plywood edge around the drawers.
> What did you use to dye it red please? I can see dads desk with the three drawers and then I can see the smallest unit for his boy, what is the one in between used for with the pull-out tray arrangement ?



Cheers.
I used Liberon concentrated wood dye. It's water based and you mix your own concentration.
The colour is great but it sands off easily. I overcame this by repeated application, careful denibbing.

The one with the pull out table is actually dad's desk. He's a music tech/composer and wanted a main desk for his monitor and speakers. He then wanted a pull out table underneath the desk for the mouse and keyboard so he could get some distance from the monitor and speakers.


----------



## D_W

Finished two more tang/bolster style chisels - hammered and then hand shaped out of old files (hammering to hopefully improve the toughness a little). 

The edge holding as as good as I've ever had in any western chisel, but they are on the light side (intentionally so) and wouldn't stand up to prying abuse. Still black as I haven't cleaned off the smoke/color of the oil quench, but they've been tempered and are in use.


----------



## custard

There must be a very special satisfaction in working wood with tools that you've crafted yourself.


----------



## D_W

custard said:


> There must be a very special satisfaction in working wood with tools that you've crafted yourself.



It's nice with two caveats -I made tools at first while I was learning to woodwork. The woodwork wasn't that great, and the tools weren't that great compared to what you could just buy and I faffed with that for a while. If:
1) you really like to make the tools (i do)
2) you're resigned to the fact that it will take a few attempts to understand what makes them good and then that's worth the effort, and it may take a few further attempts to learn to physically manifest what you know to be nice attributes....


....well, #2 is kind of like anything in woodworking, or I guess in making anything.

I threw away most of my early tools eventually, and some were made with nice stock. That was kind of painful.

To be fair, one welcome thing once you're making your own tools is you don't feel like you need to be precious with them. If you break one, you can just make another. I almost despise really pretty boutique tools for that reason- avoiding damaging them is distracting.


----------



## Brit (Andy)

The last thing I made was a Mocotaugan knife handle out of hard maple for a Ben Orford external bevel blade, inspired by the scrolls found on violins.


----------



## D_W

Brit (Andy) said:


> The last thing I made was a Mocotaugan knife handle out of hard maple for a Ben Orford external bevel blade, inspired by the scrolls found on violins.
> 
> View attachment 95543
> 
> View attachment 95544
> 
> View attachment 95545
> 
> View attachment 95546
> 
> View attachment 95547


 Wonderful!


----------



## Cordy

@
*Brit (Andy)*
Luverly !


----------



## Dr Al

Today I (nearly) finished making a new stand for my two monitors for my home desk. It looks like I'll be working from home for the foreseeable future (and possibly part time for ever), so I thought I'd upgrade the stainless steel and aluminium ones I made a few years ago. The old ones can go into work for when I'm in the office. 






Made out of offcuts of four different woods with a stainless steel frame and some self-adhesive felt under the feet. About 150 mm high, 800 mm wide and 240 mm deep.

Close-up:






The top view gives a better idea of the shape: 






This is what the frame looks like: 20 mm round bar with the ends cut off at 75° and plasma cut 1.5 mm stainless sheet. 






The stainless sheet sits in a routed cut-out, which you can see in this (pre-sanding & oiling) underside shot: 






Making it produced some very attractive plane shavings!






For contrast, here's what the new stand will be replacing: 






and a gratuitous extra photo as I haven't reached the limit yet: 






The top has only had one coat of oil so far, so it'll be a few more days before it's actually finished and pressed into service.


----------



## doctor Bob




----------



## Doug B

How regular are the buses


----------



## doctor Bob

Doug B said:


> How regular are the buses


We are calling it "Billy's bus stop".................


----------



## undergroundhunter

One of a pair of bedside tables in oak, finished in hard wax oil and wax. I'm still waiting on the drawer pulls which are a leather loop with brass stud. 

Appologies for the cluttered workshop in the background.


----------



## Illy

Beautiful work.


----------



## D_W

This weekend i didn't end up actually making anything (more chisels), but friday night, my mrs. sprung on me that my daughter needed to have another better desk option for school by Wednesday. Which I would normally fight, but used as an opportunity to go out and find an old junk desk locally and paint it instead.

This desk is probably about 60 years old, but every single joint on it is still tight. The top and sides are some kind of formica or something and all of the trim is solid and the drawers are dovetailed ply.

A chisel that I made (this is just a beginning experiment making chisels, though, but it looks promising as a hobby) sits on top of the desk.

One of the nice things about the internet now is the ability to find a primer that will stick to anything without much running around. The stuff I used on this desk is a specialty hard paint that is all of about $2 more than the "premium" paint at home depot here (which is behr brand - everything I've used of theirs is junk and seems cheap) and adhesion seems to be surprisingly good. On the already painted parts, I sanded and vacuumed off the surface - no question there.

Total time involved only about 3 hours, and total cost was about 1/3rd of what I'd have spent on materials - and it didn't really get in the way of making things that I want to make.

Much more excited about forging chisels than making desks!!


----------



## PalatineP

Not made anything but I'd just like to say that all your items are beautiful, very impressive. @Dr Al that must have taken some thought and time, what a fabulous idea!


----------



## Turnr77

Just finished this unit for the lounge/dining room. Mostly 18mm mdf with oak centre wine rack/drawer unit and oak top and shelves. I am planning a oak leaf and acorns carving for the centre back upstand.


----------



## craigs

As we recently moved, it was decided for some of the bedroom stuff to just go with cheap ikea pieces until i get round to doing some built-ins. this is the result of adding an oak mirror type thing to an ikea "oak veneered, (read plastic)" malm unit


----------



## Doug71

Not done much worth posting lately but was back working on the Dovecote today which is a nice job.

A bit of a different window today, more Dovecote like then the previous louvered ones






Also had a bit of a change of plan, some of the windows have louvers in the bottom, these were made and fitted with the intention of the louvers being closed and had an insulated panel fitted behind them. The customer later changed their minds, the louvers are now half open and I fitted some opening glazed sashes behind them instead of the solid panels. It is an improvement but would have been much easier to do it when they were on my bench instead of in situ! 

View from inside with sash fitted, as the windows are low down the louvers don't really block the view too much.


----------



## custard

undergroundhunter said:


> One of a pair of bedside tables in oak, finished in hard wax oil and wax.




Excellent job! 

I can't think of a better project than a bedside/occasional tables with a dovetailed drawer. Apart from hanging a cabinet door it covers most basic cabinet making skills. Successfully make one of these to this sort of standard and you can, with justification, call yourself a furniture maker!


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

undergroundhunter said:


> One of a pair of bedside tables in oak, finished in hard wax oil and wax


They look to be an excellent job. Well done sir.
And the 'cluttered' workshop sure looks like paradise to me. 
Martin


----------



## AndyT

undergroundhunter said:


> One of a pair of bedside tables in oak, finished in hard wax oil and wax. I'm still waiting on the drawer pulls which are a leather loop with brass stud.
> 
> Appologies for the cluttered workshop in the background.
> View attachment 95637
> View attachment 95638
> View attachment 95639
> View attachment 95640


Very nice indeed, but why did you have to use my workshop?  

I really enjoyed making one very similar, so imagine that you must have enjoyed yours twice as much. If you have any more photos, a fresh thread in the Projects section would be nice.


----------



## Peri

My first project from the doors I found in a skip !


----------



## D_W

more chisels in various states of completion


----------



## NickVanBeest

First storage container for the shed...

As cupboard,


and as crate



Planning to make 4 of these, so I can start organising the mess 

And it should make moving everything a bit easier, much better than boxes!

Edit: in it's place, and starting to declutter:


----------



## Gary james

Sean33 said:


> Not quite finished yet, drawer to be fitted properly and a few more coats of finish but nearly there


That is absolutely stunning what a beautiful piece of wood and craftsmanship


----------



## Gary james

h-magic said:


> I built this for my little boy a while back now. Hardly get time to build things at home.
> That’s a great one I can relate to that project,I spend my life I king nerf guns up and the bullets from around the paddock and garden are there shadows behind the guns so you know there all in
> 
> His ever growing collection of nerf guns.
> Made of 18mm MRMDF with some dowels and sprayed in PU paint.
> 
> View attachment 94900


----------



## Jameshow

This is my virtual men's shed project. Built to keep the older chaps encouraged during this second lockdown. 

Cheers James


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

@Jameshow Nice table. Should keep the ol' boys spirits up as think it's very pub-ish. Mine's a pint by the way. 
Martin


----------



## Cabinetman

Can you tell us a little bit more about the project James?


----------



## Jameshow

It's a simple coffee table I knocked up during an afternoon and posted pics on wattapp as I went for my older chaps to see. 

It's nothing special just 6x1 top and uprights and 2x2 for the legs. 

I'm aiming to improve my woodworking over lockdown. 

Cheers James


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Just some little supports for the fronts of some shelves. Varying heights, the proportion changes as the length increased, but hey ho. Nothing special, really, but I'm pleased -I've never turned pommels before and I'm turning seated so 50% of the work was left handed.


----------



## TRITON

Not having been in for a while I started at the beginning of this thread

Wow, just wow.


----------



## spb

After living in this house for four years without putting a number on the front, I decided to have a go at carving.





Still needs a bit more cleanup on the tape residue and that bit of tearout at the top, but I'm fairly happy for a first go.


----------



## Cabinetman

Hi Phil, I had to turn pommels for the first time about a year ago, I don’t know why I didn’t look online, but I just got on with it and stumbled on the knack of it. Nicely done. Ian


----------



## Transit80

Following a thread else where on this forum about using hardwood worktops for projects, this is the latest table I have made from leftover bits of Oak Worktop .


----------



## paulrbarnard

It's closing in on Christmas so the gifts are coming together. These are bedside appleWatch charging stations for daughters and partners. Made from offcuts of an American Cherry board I brought from Canada when I moved to the UK 17 years ago. A nice quick and simple present. They have magnets and pins to hold the two halved together. There is a bit of nano tape to hold the watch charger firmly in place. I made some before and didn't use the tape and do get the occasional time the adaptor flops out of the holder when taking the watch off. The tape should resolve that. The insides are a bit rough as I hacked the grooves out with a Dremel. A CNC router would be a wonderful thing


----------



## Cabinetman

Nice finish and shape,Paul, a Forster bit might have worked and then cut them in half with a really fine Japanese saw. Just wondering did you buy those pins with the magnets as sets? I can think of a few uses for them. Ian


----------



## paulrbarnard

Cabinetman said:


> Nice finish and shape,Paul, a Forster bit might have worked and then cut them in half with a really fine Japanese saw. Just wondering did you buy those pins with the magnets as sets? I can think of a few uses for them. Ian


I started with a slice of inch thick board and sawed it two along the grain and book mark the two halves. I then fitted the magnets to the two halves. I made the magnet holders out of brass (I have a small metal working lathe) and they have magnets glued into them, so sorry these are not available anywhere that I know of. Rediculously simple though. Just 12mm brass rod, 15mm long, with a 10mm counter bore to hold the magnet and a 4mm hole through for the locating rod, which is unsurprisingly 4mm brass rod . I glue the locating rod into one side and leave the hole in the other. The magnets are strong so I can treat the joined block as a single piece from there on, no other support is needed. In fact it was two years before my wife realised hers came apart  . 
I cut the ledge for the watch and use a fostner bit to bore out the recess for the charger (28mm). The rest is then simply hacking away with a saw to rough out the back, then a good deal of sanding. They are finished with oil and wax.


----------



## Cabinetman

Nice precise answer, thank you, I shall just have to continue using a brass screw screwed into one piece with its head cut off and separate magnets. Cheers Ian


----------



## Fidget

I've just finished this plant stand, Nearly 900mm tall and 300mm square




I got the idea from somewhere on t'internet for the black frame and somewhere else for the general shape.

It's all beech and the frame was dyed with 2 coats of Indian Ink (Hardly used any at all). The top and shelf were cut from a single 52mm board and joined using the 'Custard method' to achieve an invisible glue line (which I'm dead chuffed with). All finished with Osmo Top oil which gave me the rather matt look I was after.

Critique welcomed


frantic clamping!


I quite like the knots


----------



## Jameshow

What's the custard method not putting birds finest in the joints??!! 

Cheers James


----------



## Fidget

Jameshow said:


> What's the custard method not putting birds finest in the joints??!!
> 
> Cheers James












How To Edge Joint


Edge jointing means joining up narrower pieces of wood to make a wider board. It's something you have to do with nearly all furniture projects, because most boards sold today are less than 300mm wide, and the majority are in the range 150-200mm wide. So if you want a table top, or a chair seat...




www.ukworkshop.co.uk





The Master


----------



## Sandyn

Hopefully this post will work OK,. This is a pirate boat sandpit with storage for toys and a cover for the sandpit which converts it into a playboat.


----------



## Sandyn

The mud kitchen is made from recycled/repurposed things. My grandson plays with it every time he visits, he never tires of ringing the doorbell and getting me to open the back door to see who is there!


----------



## Sandyn

This started as an old fashioned football rattle, but evolved into a steam engine. It makes a noise as you push it along. Again made form left over bits of wood and acrylic and bits of wiper blades.


----------



## Sandyn

The sentry box garden toolshed. Another thing made from re-purposed materials. An old fence a friend was sending to the dump. The dimensions of the shed were dictated by the 1.8m length of the timber. Fully slated! lol


----------



## Dlyxover




----------



## Angusmccoatup

Oak pot with a lid turned on Pole lathe. 

Wondering if the Oak would impart flavour to any fluids supped from it, could be a USP....?

It is only about 6" tall so probably better for the ashes of a cremated much loved Hamster or similar small creature.....

Also turned a pestle that works nicely with it - as yet no flavour influences in materials ground - however a very satisfying project.


----------



## Angusmccoatup

Sandyn said:


> The sentry box garden toolshed. Another thing made from re-purposed materials. An old fence a friend was sending to the dump. The dimensions of the shed were dictated by the 1.8m length of the timber. Fully slated! lol
> 
> View attachment 96330


Always satisfying using leftovers and recycled materials. Looks rather like one I grew up using but not as a sentry! By the look of it it would have to be a gents in that case, standing room only or is it really a shed?


----------



## Dr Al

Dlyxover said:


>



That's beautiful.


----------



## Sandyn

Angusmccoatup said:


> Always satisfying using leftovers and recycled materials. Looks rather like one I grew up using but not as a sentry! By the look of it it would have to be a gents in that case, standing room only or is it really a shed?


lol. Dont give me ideas!! I keep the rakes, spades and other garden tools in it. Totally over-designed.


----------



## Alex H

A couple of months BC (before Covid) I resumed my interest in archery (only a 45 year gap ). Did the course and had a few weeks of fun before lockdown. Just before it all kicked off, I had re-equipped myself with a new bow and associated bits. Needed a stand though and didn't think the modern metal ones really went with what is essentially a poor man's longbow. So I made one. Oak, from bits I had lying about - no metal involved.


----------



## Cooper

Angusmccoatup said:


> Oak pot with a lid turned on Pole lathe.


I'd be interested in seeing a picture of your set up. Also to hollow the pot what sort of chuck do you use to hold the piece?


----------



## Orraloon

Alex H said:


> A couple of months BC (before Covid) I resumed my interest in archery (only a 45 year gap ). Did the course and had a few weeks of fun before lockdown. Just before it all kicked off, I had re-equipped myself with a new bow and associated bits. Needed a stand though and didn't think the modern metal ones really went with what is essentially a poor man's longbow. So I made one. Oak, from bits I had lying about - no metal involved.
> 
> View attachment 96398
> View attachment 96399
> View attachment 96400


That looks good and also a good match. Always a bit of a search involved getting the right stands. I went through quite a few but was never really pleased with any of the commercial ones. 
I still have a few bows gathering cobwebs but its been about 10 years since I shot.
Regards
John


----------



## Fitzroy

My boy wanted to make a table for his friends treehouse. I’d wanted to try this style of splayed staked leg, as I’m going to use it to make a kitchen bench. He helped draw the concept and drill a leg hole then lost interest, hey ho I’ll keep trying. 

Was going for something oriental with the legs but not convinced on the final form. It could also do with some kind of brace between the legs as the are only 25mm at the joint and are a bit flexy. 

Made from sycamore legs and part of an old Victorian wardrobe shelf for the top, unknown hardwood, finished with osmo uv clear satin. 

Angled holes were drilled on the drill press, tenons were cut and shaped by hand. Circles pencilled on the end then sawn and pared back, quite quick and easy. 

C&C welcome. 

Fitz


----------



## Cabinetman

Very nice Fitz , I’ve often thought it wouldn’t have been too bad a life being a bodger working in the woods.
Interesting shadow it casts as well. Ian


----------



## Felix

Brit (Andy) said:


> The last thing I made was a Mocotaugan knife handle out of hard maple for a Ben Orford external bevel blade, inspired by the scrolls found on violins.
> 
> View attachment 95543
> 
> View attachment 95544
> 
> View attachment 95545
> 
> View attachment 95546
> 
> View attachment 95547


Nice - What did you use to detail the handle?


----------



## Jameshow

This weeks VMS (virtual men's shed) project a bedside table roughly modelled on the one recently on here but in pine and simplified. 

Not my best work but my first in this style. 

No zooming in!!! 

Cheers James


----------



## Angusmccoatup

Sandyn said:


> lol. Dont give me ideas!! I keep the rakes, spades and other garden tools in it. Totally over-designed.


No shame in making things well, imagine a half soaked cobbled together structure, it would drive you mad every time you looked at it or as yet another bit fell off... and you have inspired me to utilise a bunch of roofing slate offcuts I have from a project and could not bear to ditch.... always be sure to hang the rakes or at least place them at the back....... justification read any Beano or Dandy comic and you will quickly see why


----------



## Angusmccoatup

Cooper said:


> I'd be interested in seeing a picture of your set up. Also to hollow the pot what sort of chuck do you use to hold the piece?


The Oak was cleaved from a larger log felled last Spring (2019) so as not to suffer splitting and then it was just turned as a cylinder on a normal pole lathe once I had the shape I liked I turned the lid at the end of the cylinder so it was sized to fit ±. The whole was then removed from the lathe, the ends trimmed with a handsaw and I used a Brace and bit to drill a core hole than used a curved spoon knife to hollow the remainder out. I will post a few pics when I have a moment...


----------



## craigs

Not the prettiest thing in the world, but i learnt a good deal about milling....so tiny wins


----------



## Fitzroy

craigsalisbury said:


> Not the prettiest thing in the world, but i learnt a good deal about milling....so tiny wins
> 
> View attachment 96629
> View attachment 96630
> View attachment 96631



I think that’s darn lovely!

F.


----------



## Jelly

Door 1 of 3 to replace my garage door, panel dry-fitted, sans paint.







Detail shot of the T&GV fit-up






And the frame after glue up but before being tidied up.





Made this one entirely using hand tools, which is my preferred way of working.

However for variety I'm planning to do the next one entirely using router jigs, because I feel like I should give that a shot. 

The third will probably be a mix of the two approaches, based on what's easiest.


----------



## craigs

Fitzroy said:


> I think that’s darn lovely!
> 
> F.


Thanks  but i see all the mistake


----------



## Robbo60

craigsalisbury said:


> Not the prettiest thing in the world, but i learnt a good deal about milling....so tiny wins
> 
> View attachment 96629
> View attachment 96630
> View attachment 96631


I think that's great. Where did you get the hinges?


----------



## Robbo60

craigsalisbury said:


> Not the prettiest thing in the world, but i learnt a good deal about milling....so tiny wins
> 
> View attachment 96629
> View attachment 96630
> View attachment 96631


Great. Where did you get the hinges


----------



## craigs

Robbo60 said:


> Great. Where did you get the hinges



They are from prokraft - prokraft


----------



## Farm Labourer




----------



## Cabinetman

Very nicely done indeed FL. I taught myself to hand carve letters last year but mine were, shall we say not as nice as yours! 
Ps just PMed you


----------



## thetyreman

hung my QRD acoustic diffuser to the back wall yesterday evening using oak french cleats, the wall will be plastered over the artex, it probably weighs 30-35KG, definitely improves the sound a lot, it's placed carefully at the centre line dead centre of my studio monitors on the opposite wall.


----------



## Oaktree11

Here’s my latest construct. I have Paulk style torsion box workbenches and I needed a place to put my vice. The metal vice is mounted in the woodworking one when I need it.


----------



## Sandyn

Couple of quick bat boxes. Design is from the RSPB site, but I have seen better designs. It will be interesting to see if anything moves in.


----------



## --Tom--

New plane blade for a record 77 that means it now takes nice shavings even in endgrain. Started as a piece of O1, cut to shape, heat treated, then ground before honing.


----------



## Bm101

Wow!


----------



## adest1

Recently I've been getting into veneering. Still learning, but this is my latest Black Walnut box...


----------



## Cabinetman

Nice clean work Adest 1, I’m presuming there is a lid as well?


----------



## Peri

This was originally intended as a chess board, for myself.
I cut too much off one of the edges when I was tidying it up - so every time I look at it all I can see is a column of narrow squares 
It sat gathering dust for 6 months, so I decided to turn it into a chopping board for one of my very good friends at work.
Apparently he took it home, his wife said "You aren't cutting anything on that!", so now it's become a chess board again 

(Beech is from a bed frame, iroko (?) is from a school desk, border is from a front-door frame ! )

Edit - It's solid wood about 1 1/2" thick, not veneer.


----------



## --Tom--

Peri said:


> This was originally intended as a chess board, for myself.
> I cut too much off one of the edges when I was tidying it up - so every time I look at it all I can see is a column of narrow squares
> It sat gathering dust for 6 months, so I decided to turn it into a chopping board for one of my very good friends at work.
> Apparently he took it home, his wife said "You aren't cutting anything on that!", so now it's become a chess board again
> 
> (Beech is from a bed frame, iroko (?) is from a school desk, border is from a front-door frame ! )
> 
> Edit - It's solid wood about 1 1/2" thick, not veneer.
> 
> View attachment 96843
> View attachment 96841
> View attachment 96842


That looks really neat Peri, any wip pictures? I’d be really interested in the process, guess you glue up longer strips edge to edge then cross cut off rows? How did you level it off, just a sharp plane or anything more sophisticated?


----------



## Peri

Sorry Tom, no pictures 
It was exactly as you said though - glued strips, then cross cut (like the majority of youtube videos I've watched about making chess boards!)
Then a lot of time with a hand held belt sander at 50grit, followed by palm sanders at finer grits.
Finally a router for the edges and finger grooves.


----------



## paulrbarnard

Oaktree11 said:


> Here’s my latest construct. I have Paulk style torsion box workbenches and I needed a place to put my vice. The metal vice is mounted in the woodworking one when I need it. View attachment 96756
> View attachment 96757
> View attachment 96758


I used to have something similar but would suggest that you position the metal chuck so it sits over the bench more. The cleat in your wood vice can be very much thiner and right near the front of the metal working vice plate. That lets the bulk of the metal vice sit over the bench and the wood working vice does not need to be opened so wide. As you have it there is massive twisting force on the wood vice and edge fo the work bench. The force needs to go through the bench as much as possible not the wood working vice.


----------



## Sandyn

This was made for a bit of fun I'ts a block of oak with a couple of slices of black acrylic. There are two 8mm steel rods running through the middle to strengthen the bond between the acrylic and wood. It's given me an idea for a project next year. Next one, I'm planning to have partially opaque acrylic, but edge lit with an LED and wireless charging. Rather than building the charging circuitry from scratch. I'm thinking of just using the gubbins from an old tooth brush. The idea is to have no external connections. I might also put two reed switches or hall switches in series to operate the LED. A puzzle, try and get the LED to light by getting two magnets in the correct position.


----------



## paulrbarnard

Just finished another Christmas present. This one has a back story... When the first lockdown started one of my daughters was living in a shared house in a very small bedroom. She decided to move back in with us for the duration. While here she decided she wanted to have a go at some woodworking to pass the time. I pointed her at a Paul Sellars video on YouTube where he makes a small desk organiser box. My workshop is a hand tools only situation and she had not anticipated the effort involved. Anyway she mad a start with dimensioning of the timber and go the pieces for the case roughed out. 


At this point she developed a blister and decided this was going to be a bit of a big project she abandoned it and made an Apple Watch charging stand, like the ones I posted earlier. She did a great job on that but of course it means I couldn't give her one of those for Christmas.

I decided I would build the organiser box for her. I had given my daughter a panel of recovered pine to play with but I figured I would break out my last board of cherry for the project. Everything was done with hand tools, including thicknessing the boards. These are the first dovetails I have cut since I left Canada 16 years ago and I literally just went for it so pleasantly pleased with the outcome. The box is far from perfect but it looks nice and I'm sure my daughter is going to love it. The drawer pull is a bit of maple and the drawer bottom and divider are pine. It is finished with Liberon finishing oil and then wax.


----------



## thetyreman

lovely box @paulrbarnard  she'll love that.


----------



## Cabinetman

That’s really really nice Paul, love the way you used the handle as a drawer stop! Ian


----------



## Blister

Well done that man , Very nice


----------



## Peri

I've tried a couple of these type of lidded boxes, and with every one the lid has warped - whats the secret to making it stay flat?

(I've never used 'new' timber, generally it's stuff that's both reclaimed (old), and has sat in my shed for at least 12 months).


----------



## Blister

Peri said:


> I've tried a couple of these type of lidded boxes, and with every one the lid has warped - whats the secret to making it stay flat?
> 
> (I've never used 'new' timber, generally it's stuff that's both reclaimed (old), and has sat in my shed for at least 12 months).



As I understand it , A lot depends on how the log was processed as to how flat or curly it will become when dry or drying , see the image 



Saw_patterns by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/, on Flickr


----------



## paulrbarnard

Peri said:


> I've tried a couple of these type of lidded boxes, and with every one the lid has warped - whats the secret to making it stay flat?
> 
> (I've never used 'new' timber, generally it's stuff that's both reclaimed (old), and has sat in my shed for at least 12 months).


This board has been in my workshop, or the previous one, for sixteen years.


----------



## Peri

I should put some away now then ready for when I retire


----------



## paulrbarnard

Cabinetman said:


> That’s really really nice Paul, love the way you used the handle as a drawer stop! Ian


I can't claim any credit for that, it's a Paul Sellers design. It is a great touch and ensures the drawer front aligns perfectly with the front of the case.


----------



## thetyreman

Peri said:


> I've tried a couple of these type of lidded boxes, and with every one the lid has warped - whats the secret to making it stay flat?
> 
> (I've never used 'new' timber, generally it's stuff that's both reclaimed (old), and has sat in my shed for at least 12 months).



I had the same problem on one I made, the best you can do is use quartersawn stock or riftsawn otherwise nothing to stop it, I make sure it's well seasoned beforehand.


----------



## jcassidy

Fidget said:


> I got the idea from somewhere on t'internet for the black frame and somewhere else for the general shape.
> 
> It's all beech and the frame was dyed with 2 coats of Indian Ink (Hardly used any at all).



I use chalkboard paint and shellac for the ebony effect, which results in a lovely but delicate finish. I will have to try India ink next time.


----------



## Fidget

jcassidy said:


> I use chalkboard paint and shellac for the ebony effect, which results in a lovely but delicate finish. I will have to try India ink next time.



I did 2 coats, rubbing down after the first one (it raised the grain). Very easy to put on with a paint brush. I'm very pleased with the it, it's very black


----------



## Droogs

For those wanting a truly matte black, you should try Wickes blackboard paint. I am amazed at how good it is when carefully applied


----------



## sed9888

This is the first thing i have ever made, it might not be perfect but my hands made it


----------



## TRITON

I made another scar for my lucky finger.
Its lucky because its had a total now of 32 stitches, from one thing and another and incredibly it's still attached


----------



## sed9888

TRITON said:


> I made another scar for my lucky finger.
> Its lucky because its had a total now of 32 stitches, from one thing and another and incredibly it's still attached


Ouch see attached, right through both tendons and an artery 13 weeks rehab and 4.5 hours plastic surgery, i feel your pain man, here's to a speedy recovery


----------



## Cordy

Made this for neighbour's grandson, he's 2½
Planted several Daffodil bulbs under the Pansy


----------



## paulrbarnard

TRITON said:


> I made another scar for my lucky finger.
> Its lucky because its had a total now of 32 stitches, from one thing and another and incredibly it's still attached


It looks like you are left handed...


----------



## TRITON

sed9888 said:


> Ouch see attached, right through both tendons and an artery 13 weeks rehab and 4.5 hours plastic surgery, i feel your pain man, here's to a speedy recovery



Ouch on you, but whatever did you do to cause it ?

Mine happened a bit back and has healed since, just fancied doing a funny post as these past months have been trying to say the least.


> It looks like you are left handed...


I favour the left but am in fact ambidextrous. When I was in school such abnormalities werent allowed so I was forced to write with my right, but in the end the left prevailed.


----------



## Padster

So I posted in another thread about my wife and daughter choosing their own timber and me then given the challenge of what to make with it (for Christmas pressies for them), my daughter chose Teak so this is what I did, it's nothing special or too difficult really (compared to most things I've seen posted) but I'm hopeful she'll like it and the joint to make the board isn't really visible so all in all quite please.




The inscription around the sides reads 
"For a Daughter with Whom, 
you Laugh, Dream & Argue, 
but love with,
all your heart xxx"


----------



## thetyreman

please no more hand photos


----------



## Jester129

Aw, c'mon Tyreman, don't be a wimp! It's great to see how we mangle ourselves, it shows that others are as stupid as we are.


----------



## Popey

Here's a picture of a box I'm making out of some oak offcuts. It's been a useful learning exercise, especially with the dovetail joints which are a bit gappy, but that will improve with practice.


----------



## TRITON

> the dovetail joints which are a bit gappy,



Buy some ebony - cut into thin wedges - hammer and glue into the gaps.
Nobody will ever know its not a feature*.

* This is a golden rule of furniture-making - make a mess of something ?, turn it into a feature


----------



## bp122

Made this key holder out of Oak and walnut. 
Made it as an experiment, really. There is NO joinery in this and NO hardware except for hanging hooks. It is purely held by glue, wanted to find out how long it will last.


----------



## Dr Al

I went out and got trolleyed...

Black Friday sales thoroughly destroyed my inbox and I've never really seen the point in buying a fancy new TV when my 13-year-old one still works, so I squandered on a new toy: a thicknesser. I'd wanted one for a long time, but felt like the lack of space was a bit fundamental. It probably still is (I only have a vacuum cleaner for dust extraction due to space again) to be honest, but I bought one anyway!

I made a trolley for it, mostly out of 30 × 30 × 2 mm box section, with some plywood sides and some 20 × 20 × 2 mm "wings" to provide material support (with a roller made out of my next-door-neighbours old TV aerial pole). The trolley lifts the thicknesser up high enough such that it can feed out onto my workbench or table saw, while also sliding through the (very narrow) gap between the table saw in its parked under the bench position and the motorbike. The desire to get the thicknesser up high is part of the reason for making a steel trolley with heavy duty drawers - the low-down weight should help stabilise everything.

Here's a front view:






and back view: 






The back panel gives storage for the dust extraction port and a couple of different adaptors: 






The brass knurled knobs were a case of me getting carried away!

The material supports look like this when they're swung up:






They can be adjusted very accurately to be at exactly the same height as the bed, using a couple of M6 cap screws on the end of the support arm. I'd spent ages trying to figure out how to get an angled surface for the cap screw to rest on (not that it would have mattered that much really). In the end I used a small off-cut of angle iron and ran a TIG weld bead along the corner: 






This picture shows how cosy the path through the garage is - between the motorbike and the table saw: 






and this is what it looks like when its parked between the lathe and motorbike (using some space freed up by mounting my lathe tool holder rack to the ceiling): 






While I was at it, I also glued two lengths of MDF together (actually the moisture resistant stuff as I had some left over from something unrelated). I wanted the resulting sheets to be flat and was lacking a good supply of big flat surfaces, so I clamped them to my dining-table/office desk (which is made out of a bit of 40 mm oak kitchen worktop): 






I then trimmed it to fit through the thicknesser, added some blocks on the corners to hold it against the rollers of the trolley's "wings" and covered the top surface in some UHMW-PE tape:






Close-up: 






The idea of the MDF is that it gives a continuous flat surface for the wood to run on as it goes through the thicknesser. I did a quick test after taking this photo and couldn't detect any snipe in the planed piece of wood so I'm really pleased with how well it works.

I'll probably have to take it all apart when the weather warms up so I can paint it (although I said that about the table saw trolley and still haven't got round to it - I'm glad I don't have a rust problem in the workshop!).


----------



## billw

Dr Al said:


> I went out and got trolleyed...
> 
> Black Friday sales thoroughly destroyed my inbox and I've never really seen the point in buying a fancy new TV when my 13-year-old one still works, so I squandered on a new toy: a thicknesser. I'd wanted one for a long time, but felt like the lack of space was a bit fundamental. It probably still is (I only have a vacuum cleaner for dust extraction due to space again) to be honest, but I bought one anyway!



Great work! Love the design, and you've squeezed every last inch of usable space out of it too.


----------



## Jameshow

Ok guys this is a WIP and a first time at this sort of thing. 
A big step up from the bedside table and coffee table. 

Be kind and no zooming in!! 

Cheers James


----------



## kelsallcustombats

Hi all, this is the last thing I've made, I've been making cricket bats for the last 10 years or so as a bit of a hobby.


----------



## giantbeat

kelsallcustombats said:


> Hi all, this is the last thing I've made, I've been making cricket bats for the last 10 years or so as a bit of a hobby.View attachment 97791
> View attachment 97792
> View attachment 97793


awesome, hello from another wakey resident


----------



## bp122

kelsallcustombats said:


> Hi all, this is the last thing I've made, I've been making cricket bats for the last 10 years or so as a bit of a hobby.View attachment 97791
> View attachment 97792
> View attachment 97793


Top stuff. Hello from a fellow cricket player, coach and bat enthusiast! 

Lovely straight grains too. Do you select the clefts and handles yourself? 

You might be getting an order from me soon!


----------



## Benchwayze

Just the ticket at the wicket! Not so sticky... lovely work. 

John


----------



## Cabinetman

Jameshow said:


> Ok guys this is a WIP and a first time at this sort of thing.
> A big step up from the bedside table and coffee table.
> 
> Be kind and no zooming in!!
> 
> Cheers James


 Hi James, I recommend if you are doing a WIP thatyou start again with its own thread or it will just get lost on here, looks like it’s going to be a proper piece of work. Ian


----------



## Illy

Dr Al said:


> I went out and got trolleyed...
> 
> Black Friday sales thoroughly destroyed my inbox and I've never really seen the point in buying a fancy new TV when my 13-year-old one still works, so I squandered on a new toy: a thicknesser. I'd wanted one for a long time, but felt like the lack of space was a bit fundamental. It probably still is (I only have a vacuum cleaner for dust extraction due to space again) to be honest, but I bought one anyway!
> 
> I made a trolley for it, mostly out of 30 × 30 × 2 mm box section, with some plywood sides and some 20 × 20 × 2 mm "wings" to provide material support (with a roller made out of my next-door-neighbours old TV aerial pole). The trolley lifts the thicknesser up high enough such that it can feed out onto my workbench or table saw, while also sliding through the (very narrow) gap between the table saw in its parked under the bench position and the motorbike. The desire to get the thicknesser up high is part of the reason for making a steel trolley with heavy duty drawers - the low-down weight should help stabilise everything.
> 
> Here's a front view:
> 
> View attachment 97754
> 
> 
> and back view:
> 
> View attachment 97755
> 
> 
> The back panel gives storage for the dust extraction port and a couple of different adaptors:
> 
> View attachment 97756
> 
> 
> The brass knurled knobs were a case of me getting carried away!
> 
> The material supports look like this when they're swung up:
> 
> View attachment 97757
> 
> 
> They can be adjusted very accurately to be at exactly the same height as the bed, using a couple of M6 cap screws on the end of the support arm. I'd spent ages trying to figure out how to get an angled surface for the cap screw to rest on (not that it would have mattered that much really). In the end I used a small off-cut of angle iron and ran a TIG weld bead along the corner:
> 
> View attachment 97758
> 
> 
> This picture shows how cosy the path through the garage is - between the motorbike and the table saw:
> 
> View attachment 97759
> 
> 
> and this is what it looks like when its parked between the lathe and motorbike (using some space freed up by mounting my lathe tool holder rack to the ceiling):
> 
> View attachment 97760
> 
> 
> While I was at it, I also glued two lengths of MDF together (actually the moisture resistant stuff as I had some left over from something unrelated). I wanted the resulting sheets to be flat and was lacking a good supply of big flat surfaces, so I clamped them to my dining-table/office desk (which is made out of a bit of 40 mm oak kitchen worktop):
> 
> View attachment 97761
> 
> 
> I then trimmed it to fit through the thicknesser, added some blocks on the corners to hold it against the rollers of the trolley's "wings" and covered the top surface in some UHMW-PE tape:
> 
> View attachment 97762
> 
> 
> Close-up:
> 
> View attachment 97763
> 
> 
> The idea of the MDF is that it gives a continuous flat surface for the wood to run on as it goes through the thicknesser. I did a quick test after taking this photo and couldn't detect any snipe in the planed piece of wood so I'm really pleased with how well it works.
> 
> I'll probably have to take it all apart when the weather warms up so I can paint it (although I said that about the table saw trolley and still haven't got round to it - I'm glad I don't have a rust problem in the workshop!).




"Between the motorbike and the table saw" now that's a phrase I recognise !


----------



## gregmcateer

Love that, Padster. Bet she'll be delighted


----------



## nickds1

Building a sauna out of two sheds salvaged from a school. Made one good shed out of the bits but had to do replacements of sole plates and other timber (some shiplap). Levelled a patch, put in 9t of type 1, built a base, then 22mm T5, then the shed. Salvaged some new uPVC windows and used those. Installed subfloor for tiling and now building the sauna inside. 

Large picture window in sauna is also salvaged - it was a patio door.

Idea is you can sit in sauna and look at view across Kent!

Fair bit still to do. Saunas are complex.


----------



## sed9888

My very small shop dust extractor system, again never built anything, worked out ok though I think


----------



## Jester129

@Dr Al, great idea for the thicknesser, that might well be copied, hope you don't mind!
@kelsallcustombats, beautiful bat, shame I've 'retired', would have loved giving a ball a clobber with one of those!
@nickds1, love how you've matched the sauna to the current shed, some very clever work!
@sed9888, another clever piece that might get copied!

Well done guys and thankyou for your posts.


----------



## D.Stephenson

Been a fairly busy week! Set of three ‘Kingston Tables’ along with an oak bench completed and collected. Plus 3 days of teaching resulting in 4 rather nice stools leaving the workshop


----------



## PeteHB

Work over the lockdowns has been two fitted sets of wardrobes and a chest of drawers. The wardrobes were complicated by only being able to source 37mm by 3M by 50cm live edge rough sawn beech for the doors which were 21mm thick when finished. And my wife deciding it would be nice if the frames were lacquered and the panels painted. Everything was sprayed using a Fuji HVLP set up from Axminster.
The chest of drawers was started at the same time but out of some elm that I had been saving for a few years.


----------



## sjpsound

Hi There ! Please be gentle with me, just started out with woodturning. Made this yesterday from some old Oak that I had lying around....


----------



## gregmcateer

Good effort, sjpsound.
My first turning was an utter shocker and 2 to 50 haven't been noteworthy!
Keep up the good work


----------



## Doug B

The rough looking timber bottom right is the seat from an elm Windsor chair that came in for some restoration but was so badly infested with woodworm that the rest got burnt.









I decided to recycle the Elm into a pen presentation box, seemed a shame not to put it to good use






there are no hinges you just press on the back of the lid & the front opens






the rebate at the back is deeper than the front & sides so when opened it stands just over upright leaning back.


----------



## Jameshow

These were a set of step ladders which one if my men's shed chaps requested. Loosely based on a Paul sellars design.

They are chunky!!

Cheers James


----------



## TRITON

Boxes and step ladders, can't go wrong with either. I do like those ladders, its not something you see getting made in such a forum, so nice to see someone making a pair.

I'm making a mantelpiece, though this is just its current stage and long from finished. I've still to do the turned columns for the front, and a moulded surround, and maybe some inset panels should I work out the copper foil pressing pictures. 
Eventually it will have dentil under the top, and panel raise cutter on the underside to thin the top down and not look so chunky.
Fast running out of Maple though. Started with 3 boards @9'x8"x1" and the turned columns are from the thick section next to it, 2 of those glued together, and tuned hopefully matching.
Was considering doing the columns in bubinga along with a surround and inlays or insets, but we'll see if i've got enough maple to finish it.


----------



## Doug B

Been a while since I‘ve turned anything but this was a request from the good lady wife for her birthday, a 12” high Xmas tree in spalted Sycamore similar to one she’d seen on the tinterweb


----------



## Phil Pascoe

sjpsound said:


> Hi There ! Please be gentle with me, just started out with woodturning. Made this yesterday from some old Oak that I had lying around....


And the underside? You must know turners always look at the underside.


----------



## weekend_woodworker

Just finished making a reindeer on the bandsaw from a bit of oak I got on Freecycle. Not an original idea, but quite pleased how it tuned out,


----------



## Cooper

This flexible elephant was an experiment inspired by previous comments here. A cyclist recommended saving old inner tubes and using the rubber and a reply in a turning thread which suggested super glue to mend cracks. 
I made slots in the body sections with a dovetail saw, ran the glue into the slot and was able to slide in a strip of tube and clamp it to pinch the slot. I am amazed how strong the bond is. Its a bit fiddly but with practice should become easier. 
The wood is Turkey Oak from a tree in our garden and the wheels old tent pole. The ears are felt from an old Loan Rangers hat!!


----------



## Nelly111s

Some photos from my customer. Console table to the customer’s design with oak base and olivewood top. 1200x370mm top. Wedged mortice and tenon with olivewood wedges.


----------



## sed9888

Ohh Sandy .......


----------



## thetyreman

I made some custom/bespoke doors from some old 1930s pitch pine, the panels are redwood pine, first time using the 'wearing' method of hinging, and it's not perfect, I think I cut the recess slightly too deep and they are binding slightly where the frame meets the stiles, they aren't quite finished yet but you get the idea, it hides a very ugly and untidy area under the floor which is nice and will also make the garage a lot warmer in the winter months, I will likely just finish it with tung oil once it's all finished and handles are added and the hinges polished up, but for now I'll live with it like this for a while.


----------



## NickDReed

Taking the opportunity while she's out to get the table top finished. Just need to get the legs sorted before Xmas day. Top is reclaimed oak floorboards set on ply. Edging it today and planing. Hopefully give it a sand and then think about how to finish. Any suggestions?


----------



## Jacob

Made an obelisk from a bit of old chapel beam this summer. Was full of nails and good for nothing except firewood, other side all mortice holes for floor joists





Then painted it white and put a hat on it


----------



## Deadeye

NickDReed said:


> ... and then think about how to finish. Any suggestions?



A turkey?

Seriously, that looks wonderful.


----------



## Fitzroy

NickDReed said:


> View attachment 98221
> 
> 
> Taking the opportunity while she's out to get the table top finished. Just need to get the legs sorted before Xmas day. Top is reclaimed oak floorboards set on ply. Edging it today and planing. Hopefully give it a sand and then think about how to finish. Any suggestions?



Something hard wearing for a table top. How about a hard wax oil, like fiddes?

Fitz.


----------



## Rorton

[ 


NickDReed said:


> View attachment 98221
> 
> 
> Taking the opportunity while she's out to get the table top finished. Just need to get the legs sorted before Xmas day. Top is reclaimed oak floorboards set on ply. Edging it today and planing. Hopefully give it a sand and then think about how to finish. Any suggestions?


Really nice job - hard wax oil is a good call - OSMO PolyX worth looking at too


----------



## marcros

NickDReed said:


> View attachment 98221
> 
> 
> Taking the opportunity while she's out to get the table top finished. Just need to get the legs sorted before Xmas day. Top is reclaimed oak floorboards set on ply. Edging it today and planing. Hopefully give it a sand and then think about how to finish. Any suggestions?



how thick are the floorboards and how are they fixed to the ply? Potential movement would worry me here. I do like the top though, it will look lovely with a finish on it.


----------



## Padster

So I mentioned my wife and daughter choosing their own timber, for Christmas gifts and posted my daughters soon to be new Teak Solitaire board. Well the wife wanted a new box for her hairdryer! So African rosewood was her timber but i didn’t have enough so paired it with some walnut, and a pig suede interior thanks @custard for the sticky!








Just gotta wait for Christmas and approval now!

Padster


----------



## Jester129

@Padster, I LIKE that! Beautiful front and hasp. Have to ask though, is the hairdryer a solid gold GHD one?


----------



## gregmcateer

Jameshow said:


> These were a set of step ladders which one if my men's shed chaps requested. Loosely based on a Paul sellars design.
> 
> They are chunky!!
> 
> Cheers James



James, could i ask - where do you get the ladder hinges from?
TIA
Greg


----------



## NickDReed

marcros said:


> how thick are the floorboards and how are they fixed to the ply? Potential movement would worry me here. I do like the top though, it will look lovely with a finish on it.



9mm glued in place. Edging is glued & screwed into the ply.


----------



## Jameshow

__





Cast Iron Black Antique Trestle Paste Board Joint Hinge | Ironmongery World


<p>This is a cast iron vintage trestle past board hinge which can be used for trunk boxes, toy boxes, chest boxes, and other storage boxes. </p>




www.ironmongeryworld.com





Cheers James


----------



## Padster

Jester129 said:


> @Padster, I LIKE that! Beautiful front and hasp. Have to ask though, is the hairdryer a solid gold GHD one?


@Jester129 thanks.... I think the GHD bit the dust and got replaced by Dyson and assuming the cost must be made of gold !


----------



## Rorton

finished a few more end grain cutting boards in different designs this weekend


----------



## sed9888

Wow i love it beautiful


----------



## NickDReed

Rorton said:


> finished a few more end grain cutting boards in different designs this weekend
> 
> View attachment 98295
> 
> 
> View attachment 98296
> 
> 
> View attachment 98297
> 
> 
> View attachment 98298


These look ace!!


----------



## sed9888

NickDReed said:


> These look ace!!


 beautiful


----------



## Sandyn

Cooper said:


> View attachment 98140
> 
> This flexible elephant was an experiment inspired by previous comments here. A cyclist recommended saving old inner tubes and using the rubber and a reply in a turning thread which suggested super glue to mend cracks.
> I made slots in the body sections with a dovetail saw, ran the glue into the slot and was able to slide in a strip of tube and clamp it to pinch the slot. I am amazed how strong the bond is. Its a bit fiddly but with practice should become easier.
> The wood is Turkey Oak from a tree in our garden and the wheels old tent pole. The ears are felt from an old Loan Rangers hat!!


That is brilliant! I need to add this to my list of 101 things to do with an old bicycle tube. What a great idea.


----------



## Hincey

Built myself a racing sim during the lockdown from scratch. 

I'll be posting a detailed build with more pictures of this soon. I'll leave a link to the post here when it's up


----------



## Chris_Pallet




----------



## Roberto Flintofski

Nothing too exciting here .. almost finished the bench


----------



## billw

I wish I could post exciting things or even something that's not made of scrap. But I've just made a cleat holder for my No.5

So many designs available on the net but this one is so simple.


----------



## Jameshow

So nice. 

How are you going to attach screwdrivers and chisels to the cleats??? 

Cheers James


----------



## billw

Jameshow said:


> So nice.
> 
> How are you going to attach screwdrivers and chisels to the cleats???
> 
> Cheers James



I did this for my dovetail chisels. Screwdrivers I’m not going to, just bits for a driver.


----------



## Droogs

@Hincey that is nice but a bit OTT for Farm Simulator 19


----------



## Hincey

Droogs said:


> @Hincey that is nice but a bit OTT for Farm Simulator 19



Well it was during lockdown, I had all the time in the world lol farm simulator is too fast for me, I prefer Gran Turismo ha


----------



## Bm101

I'm one ahead of ya Droogs. If only you had a shiny new wheel and set up to use.


....


----------



## Jameshow

What the heck do you do on farm SIM??!!

Makes the vintage game elite sound exciting!!! 

Cheers James


----------



## Jameshow

billw said:


> I did this for my dovetail chisels. Screwdrivers I’m not going to, just bits for a driver.
> 
> View attachment 98484


Nice


----------



## billw

Jameshow said:


> What the heck do you do on farm SIM??!!



Literally farming.


----------



## thetyreman

my favourite simulator so far is goat simulator, lots of fun and laughs, it's mental.


----------



## NickVanBeest

Jameshow said:


> So nice.
> 
> How are you going to attach screwdrivers and chisels to the cleats???
> 
> Cheers James





This is how I did my screwdrivers, and will do something similar for my chisels...


----------



## Droogs

@Jameshow Elite was exciting compared to horace goes skiing


----------



## Doug71

My eldest sons Xbox seems to have migrated into the "posh" room and was all looking a bit messy so I have made a cabinet to tidy things up,

Birch ply, built with track saw and dominos. A bit of Van Dyck stain so it doesn't look too new and a couple of coats of varnish. No Sketch up or drawings involved, just made it up as I went along.

This is before (note the temporary MDF shelves, some of my finest work, you should see the sag in them!)






Things now looking a bit tidier 







And the magic bit, you slide out the right hand side unit and lift up the top , the main reason I wanted to make it was to get rid of the geriatric overbed table he was using for his keyboard and mouse.






There are a few bits I would do differently if I was making it again but that is often the case when you make things without much planning, least it's done for Christmas


----------



## Gremmy

Droogs said:


> @Jameshow Elite was exciting compared to horace goes skiing



Chuckie Egg or Daredevil Dennis over Elite any day!


----------



## Jameshow

Hey I loved elite!! 

My brother played it more seriously and ended up in IT on major infrastructure with Hitachi whilst I need up doing low level social work!! Lol. 

Cheers James


----------



## sammy.se

Here's my latest finished project: top cupboard for the original landing cupboard. I plan to post a WIP in due course, with all the pics I took along the way.
Designed to match the existing style and blend in. Colour is my own custom creation.


----------



## NickDReed

Chris_Pallet said:


> View attachment 98351



What wood and finish did you use for this?


----------



## Chris_Pallet

NickDReed said:


> What wood and finish did you use for this?




The wood was c24 timber 
The finish was a water based stain, 1 layer then a varnish 4 layers then 2 layers of wax. 
I got the advice from Littlefair wood finishes 

Search 'Woodcatz' on Instagram for more build pics in stories


----------



## Linus

Gremmy said:


> Chuckie Egg or Daredevil Dennis over Elite any day!


Chuckie Egg! Now there's a blast from the past. What level did you get to?


----------



## sed9888

I made this yesterday afternoon, I'll finish it today very pleased with the outcome, mines the one o the right lol


----------



## paulrbarnard

Last of the Christmas presents finished (well except I will be putting a 'tin' roof on this before it goes outside). This is a Mason Bee hotel for my wife. Apart from the slots in the drawers, which were cut on my milling machine, everything was done with hand tools including dimensioning the timber. It has been physically very demanding . The block in the top is 140mm x 70mm x 170mm and the holes are 160mm deep, drilled with a brace and bit. That took me five hours!!!! My arms are now useless. I'm very pleased with the final result. A few obvious mistakes and flaws but heck it's going to hang on a wall in the garden.







The two drawers have clear tubes so that you can see the bee larvae. The top block has paper tubes lining the holes so they can be replaced each year to prevent pests. The roof space is for bits of reed, grass and other hollow vegetation to offer a home for some of the other solitary bee types that favour different sized holes. The roof overhang is 2 inches (50mm) to keep the tube openings dry.
When winter sets in the drawers are taken out and put in a cardboard box in an un-heated shed. Once the bees break out of the tubes they find their way out of the box and are on their way. Then the tubes get replaced or cleaned and the drawers go back into the hotel for another season.
I have to say I'm quite looking forward to seeing if we get any tenants.


----------



## MarkAW

Is that a no-clearance insert?


----------



## Dr Al

paulrbarnard said:


> Last of the Christmas presents finished (well except I will be putting a 'tin' roof on this before it goes outside). This is a Mason Bee hotel for my wife. Apart from the slots in the drawers, which were cut on my milling machine, everything was done with hand tools including dimensioning the timber. It has been physically very demanding . The block in the top is 140mm x 70mm x 170mm and the holes are 160mm deep, drilled with a brace and bit. That took me five hours!!!! My arms are now useless. I'm very pleased with the final result. A few obvious mistakes and flaws but heck it's going to hang on a wall in the garden.
> View attachment 98640
> View attachment 98641
> 
> The two drawers have clear tubes so that you can see the bee larvae. The top block has paper tubes lining the holes so they can be replaced each year to prevent pests. The roof space is for bits of reed, grass and other hollow vegetation to offer a home for some of the other solitary bee types that favour different sized holes. The roof overhang is 2 inches (50mm) to keep the tube openings dry.
> When winter sets in the drawers are taken out and put in a cardboard box in an un-heated shed. Once the bees break out of the tubes they find their way out of the box and are on their way. Then the tubes get replaced or cleaned and the drawers go back into the hotel for another season.
> I have to say I'm quite looking forward to seeing if we get any tenants.



Wow. That's beautiful.


----------



## Cabinetman

paulrbarnard said:


> Last of the Christmas presents finished (well except I will be putting a 'tin' roof on this before it goes outside). This is a Mason Bee hotel for my wife. Apart from the slots in the drawers, which were cut on my milling machine, everything was done with hand tools including dimensioning the timber. It has been physically very demanding . The block in the top is 140mm x 70mm x 170mm and the holes are 160mm deep, drilled with a brace and bit. That took me five hours!!!! My arms are now useless. I'm very pleased with the final result. A few obvious mistakes and flaws but heck it's going to hang on a wall in the garden.
> View attachment 98640
> View attachment 98641
> 
> The two drawers have clear tubes so that you can see the bee larvae. The top block has paper tubes lining the holes so they can be replaced each year to prevent pests. The roof space is for bits of reed, grass and other hollow vegetation to offer a home for some of the other solitary bee types that favour different sized holes. The roof overhang is 2 inches (50mm) to keep the tube openings dry.
> When winter sets in the drawers are taken out and put in a cardboard box in an un-heated shed. Once the bees break out of the tubes they find their way out of the box and are on their way. Then the tubes get replaced or cleaned and the drawers go back into the hotel for another season.
> I have to say I'm quite looking forward to seeing if we get any tenants.


 Hi Paul I really like that, looks simple until you examine it a bit closer, a lot of work in that. Instead of spoiling it with a bit of tin, the last thing I made even remotely like it for outside, I used proper grey slates stuck on with black building adhesive (Think black, no nails or pink stuff) . It worked really well, and you could have the slates just overhanging slightly. Ian


----------



## paulrbarnard

Cabinetman said:


> Hi Paul I really like that, looks simple until you examine it a bit closer, a lot of work in that. Instead of spoiling it with a bit of tin, the last thing I made even remotely like it for outside, I used proper grey slates stuck on with black building adhesive (Think black, no nails or pink stuff) . It worked really well, and you could have the slates just overhanging slightly. Ian


That’s a great suggestion!


----------



## Benchwayze

That bee was going at a lick!

John


----------



## nickds1

paulrbarnard said:


> Last of the Christmas presents finished (well except I will be putting a 'tin' roof on this before it goes outside). This is a Mason Bee hotel for my wife. Apart from the slots in the drawers, which were cut on my milling machine, everything was done with hand tools including dimensioning the timber. It has been physically very demanding . The block in the top is 140mm x 70mm x 170mm and the holes are 160mm deep, drilled with a brace and bit. That took me five hours!!!! My arms are now useless. I'm very pleased with the final result. A few obvious mistakes and flaws but heck it's going to hang on a wall in the garden.
> View attachment 98640
> View attachment 98641
> 
> The two drawers have clear tubes so that you can see the bee larvae. The top block has paper tubes lining the holes so they can be replaced each year to prevent pests. The roof space is for bits of reed, grass and other hollow vegetation to offer a home for some of the other solitary bee types that favour different sized holes. The roof overhang is 2 inches (50mm) to keep the tube openings dry.
> When winter sets in the drawers are taken out and put in a cardboard box in an un-heated shed. Once the bees break out of the tubes they find their way out of the box and are on their way. Then the tubes get replaced or cleaned and the drawers go back into the hotel for another season.
> I have to say I'm quite looking forward to seeing if we get any tenants.



Really lovely! A few questions if I may...

What wood is the upper section made from? 
Are you using test tubes or similar in the lower section?
Where did you source the cardboard liners for the upper section?

I've been a beekeeper for 30+ years and our gardens are highly bee friendly and added-chemical free. We have a large number of types of bumble bee, including mason bees - they are a joy to watch.

I wish you luck in attracting them!

One of my honey bee (ApIs melifera melifera) queens this summer:


----------



## paulrbarnard

nickds1 said:


> Really lovely! A few questions if I may...
> 
> What wood is the upper section made from?
> Are you using test tubes or similar in the lower section?
> Where did you source the cardboard liners for the upper section?
> 
> I've been a beekeeper for 30+ years and our gardens are highly bee friendly and added-chemical free. We have a large number of types of bumble bee, include Ng mason bees - they are a joy to watch.
> 
> I wish you luck in attracting them!
> 
> One of my honey bee (ApIs melifera melifera) queens this summer:
> 
> View attachment 98739



It’s all oak. We had a coffee table that was basically two slabs of oak on legs. The bee hotel is made from one of those slabs. It was a lot of sawing...

Both the clear tubes and the paper tubes came from Amazon. I just did a search for mason bee tubes an dozens of different ones were available. I just selected the ones with a good diameter for mason bees, 8 to 10mm. The clear tubes are washable and the paper tubes disposable. I bought a box of 200 paper tubes as they were cheap. I now realise we have a 10 year supply... I read quite a bit before starting to get the best practice. The paper tubes are highly recommended to prevent parasites. 

Bee keeping might be on the cards for the future for us but the mason bees will an enjoyable experience. We have a lot of different bees in our garden as it is very much designed to be wildlife friendly it just remains to be seen if any bees take up residence.


----------



## thetyreman

I want to be re-born as a bee just so I can see inside and inspect the joints.


----------



## paulrbarnard

thetyreman said:


> I want to be re-born as a bee just so I can see inside and inspect the joints.



Of course the main box is done with hand cut dovetails , only a bit gappy. 
The dovetails were actually one of the major cock ups, I manage to get the box turned 90 degrees when I did the drawer separators. The pins are facing down instead of the tails. Ah well the glue will hold them. I was more than a little bit miffed to say the least.


----------



## Jameshow

Don't sweat over it it's a bee hotel! 

Best place to learn dovetails that or a toolbox!!! 

Looks a 5* bee hotel! 

Cheers James


----------



## D_W

Two plane irons - drilled and then hand cut and filed to size.

Top one is O1 steel, bottom is 1095. I made a third, but need to finish the slot (it takes a little over an hour to make a plane iron by hand, but there's certainly cost savings and control over variables. I can make an O1 iron out of US made precision ground steel for about $13 and have enough steel left from the side offcut to make a very good hard marking knife. 1095 is about $7. Add perhaps $2 for files and other bits consumed by the making process.

The O1 iron in this case is cut to fit an LN plane that I sold on ebay. A buyer paid so much that I felt like it would be polite to give him more with his purchase, so I threw in a couple of house irons (one not pictured here) to try.






I don't bother to do any post-heat treat surfacing other than to remove cooked on scale from oil (That makes the irons grippy and harder to adjust) . Anything more is a waste of time.


----------



## thetyreman

that's more than acceptable for what it is @paulrbarnard , I understand your frustration but you will do it better next time, it would matter on a very high end jewellery box but not on something like this, don't be discouraged, it'll still hold together likely for hundreds of years, that'll keep a lot of bees happy.


----------



## bourbon

A Christmas present for My girlfriends granddaughter


----------



## Doug B

I turned these rather filthy Ercol children’s chairs 






Into these today 






I've certainly had enough of sanding for the rest of the year


----------



## billw

Can’t wait see to the reviews on Tripadvisor.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Doug B said:


> I turned these rather filthy Ercol children’s chairs
> 
> View attachment 98768
> 
> 
> Into these today
> 
> View attachment 98769
> 
> 
> I've certainly had enough of sanding for the rest of the year


Huh! If you were Jay Blades you'd have saved yourself some effort and painted them Turquoise with one orange leg.


----------



## marcros

bourbon said:


> View attachment 98763
> 
> A Christmas present for My girlfriends granddaughter



she must be tiny.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

It's getting late ...


----------



## Doug B

Phil Pascoe said:


> Huh! If you were Jay Blades you'd have saved yourself some effort and painted them Turquoise with one orange leg.


I was going to google who Jay Blades was but then I thought if she/he paints elm & beech Ercol chairs do I really want to know


----------



## kpsjoiner

Actually two of the last things I’ve made


----------



## gregmcateer

Wow, PB, that is stunning - beats the hell out of the Trump Hotel monstrosities!
I hope the little fellas appreciate all the hard work


----------



## paulrbarnard

Thought I would post this one despite it not being me that finished it today. My daughter just sent me this picture of a box she made. She sent the picture because she has finally put a danish oil finish on it, still no hinges though... She actually made the box, using hand tools, 17 years ago, and it has been unfinished since then. She flocked the inside at teh time she made it and has been using it to hold keep sakes ever since. Turns out she has been doing a bit of spoon carving for Christmas presents hence having the finish on hand.

Anyone else had/have a 17 year project on the go?




Here she is during the actual making




Must say my bench was looking a bit less dinged back then and I am wondering where my long straight edge went...


----------



## Jameshow

My chest of drawers

Nick named gappy as the drawers are 1/8 too small in width tbh. 

Several things went wrong the rails I cut 4" too small so has to redo them and the wood isn't the same quality as the rest. 

One of the fronts has a big knot in it covered by the no3 plane (faithfull) as it's from the same wood as above... 

Tbh my skills have much improved from when I started it as I've had it on the back burner for 3 months and I think I would start again now! 

Be kind!! 

Cheers James


----------



## Just4Fun

paulrbarnard said:


> Anyone else had/have a 17 year project on the go?


You mean apart from my house?


----------



## Austin Branson

Hi, this is a coffee table that I made. It’s oak, using offcuts from some window frames that I made. Unfortunately, the oak had not finished shrinking, so some small gaps have appeared. I didn’t make the steel stand, that was a local engineering company (300 euros!).!


----------



## Benchwayze

My bench. Still in the rafters of my shop. Three 16 footers of 12x2 inch. Southern Yellow Pine, ripped to 4.5 x 2s. Wife's illness stopped play. Not yet got the mojo back to finish the job. Probablywon't now. Just make some small tables maybe? Small farmhouse table?

John


----------



## Jameshow

Benchwayze said:


> My bench. Still in the rafters of my shop. Three 16 footers of 12x2 inch. Southern Yellow Pine, ripped to 4.5 x 2s. Wife's illness stopped play. Not yet got the mojo back to finish the job. Probablywon't now. Just make some small tables maybe? Small farmhouse table?
> 
> John



I feel and sympathise with you pain. 

I'm in a simalar position but I find the workshop a cathartic escape from the illness that robs the life out of our marriage. 

Cheers James


----------



## Benchwayze

Sincere thanks James. I thought I had got over lack of motivation last year. But then whatever is responsible dealt me another blow by giving me a dose of cellulitis. This caused me to spend 4 to 5 months fighting the disease and also learning to walk again. Please don't think I'm moaning; at least I'm alive. I have to get back in the shop. As previously mentioned I shall just have to start small again. My wife is in full care now, so 'Let no man put asunder' means precisely sweet Fanny Adams. Chin up James and here's to a good Christmas.


----------



## Steve C

Last thing I made well one of them.


----------



## Bm101

Couple of pressies knocked out for the kids. My lass wanted a flower press and I thought I'd better make summat for my lad too. Ash and some scraps of afromosia.


----------



## DennisCA

Not yet finished, and I am making two identical ones:


----------



## Dr Al

DennisCA said:


> Not yet finished, and I am making two identical ones:



I recognise that... think I might have "Liked" that on another forum recently!


----------



## Dr Al

Today I made (or at least nearly finished making) four planes (based on an idea from a book): 






Made out of beech, walnut and gauge plate. They're for ploughing grooves in box/drawer sides for a base. One day I'll get a plough plane, but most uses for it will probably be this and it would take me far longer to set up a plough plane than it would to grab one of these planes and plough a groove. They're in pairs so that I can pick the appropriate one for a given grain direction: two make 3 mm grooves, 3 mm deep, 3 mm from the fence; the other two are similar but replace all the 3s with 5s.

After a fair amount of fettling and getting them set up, I did some test grooves in a couple of offcuts of oak (visible in the picture). In those short lengths, it takes about 10 seconds to plough a groove. I doubt I could even find the right router cutter in that time, let alone set up a router, so I think these will get a fair amount of use.

They'll get a coat of oil once I've finished fettling.

I made some spare cutters in other sizes too (although I've only hardened & tempered the 3 mm and 5 mm ones). For some reason the 3 mm and 10 mm ones didn't make it into this photo:






Here's another view: 






and an in-progress photo showing how they're constructed:


----------



## Jameshow

What steel do you use for the blades? 

I guess you could use cheap 6mm chisels 

Cheers James


----------



## --Tom--

The post mentions gauge plate, which is typically 01 tool steel.

I keep fancying making a wooden plane or two, being laminated those seem fairly straight forward, but imagine there’s a bit of fettling to get them performing well


----------



## matkinitice

A small table for my daughter. She is 18 months old and we've recently discovered she loves tables, just the act of putting something down and picking it up. 

When we moved into our house a few months back she used a cardbox box and was distraught when we removed it. This is to replace that. I'll make her a small chair for her birthday, but for now this should be good enough. 

I'm quite happy with the finish. First time doing breadboard ends too. I used up 6m of scrap Meranti for the build, with a small amount left over.


----------



## Orraloon

Dr Al said:


> Today I made (or at least nearly finished making) four planes (based on an idea from a book):
> 
> View attachment 98918
> 
> 
> Made out of beech, walnut and gauge plate. They're for ploughing grooves in box/drawer sides for a base. One day I'll get a plough plane, but most uses for it will probably be this and it would take me far longer to set up a plough plane than it would to grab one of these planes and plough a groove. They're in pairs so that I can pick the appropriate one for a given grain direction: two make 3 mm grooves, 3 mm deep, 3 mm from the fence; the other two are similar but replace all the 3s with 5s.
> 
> After a fair amount of fettling and getting them set up, I did some test grooves in a couple of offcuts of oak (visible in the picture). In those short lengths, it takes about 10 seconds to plough a groove. I doubt I could even find the right router cutter in that time, let alone set up a router, so I think these will get a fair amount of use.
> 
> They'll get a coat of oil once I've finished fettling.
> 
> I made some spare cutters in other sizes too (although I've only hardened & tempered the 3 mm and 5 mm ones). For some reason the 3 mm and 10 mm ones didn't make it into this photo:
> 
> View attachment 98919
> 
> 
> Here's another view:
> 
> View attachment 98920
> 
> 
> and an in-progress photo showing how they're constructed:
> 
> View attachment 98921


Nice job


Dr Al said:


> Today I made (or at least nearly finished making) four planes (based on an idea from a book):
> 
> View attachment 98918
> 
> 
> Made out of beech, walnut and gauge plate. They're for ploughing grooves in box/drawer sides for a base. One day I'll get a plough plane, but most uses for it will probably be this and it would take me far longer to set up a plough plane than it would to grab one of these planes and plough a groove. They're in pairs so that I can pick the appropriate one for a given grain direction: two make 3 mm grooves, 3 mm deep, 3 mm from the fence; the other two are similar but replace all the 3s with 5s.
> 
> After a fair amount of fettling and getting them set up, I did some test grooves in a couple of offcuts of oak (visible in the picture). In those short lengths, it takes about 10 seconds to plough a groove. I doubt I could even find the right router cutter in that time, let alone set up a router, so I think these will get a fair amount of use.
> 
> They'll get a coat of oil once I've finished fettling.
> 
> I made some spare cutters in other sizes too (although I've only hardened & tempered the 3 mm and 5 mm ones). For some reason the 3 mm and 10 mm ones didn't make it into this photo:
> 
> View attachment 98919
> 
> 
> Here's another view:
> 
> View attachment 98920
> 
> 
> and an in-progress photo showing how they're constructed:
> 
> View attachment 98921


Nice job on those planes. Grab and go is good. I can see that being very handy if you use those settings on a regular basis. I have an old wooden plow and while it does a good job setting up is a fiddle. 
Regards
John


----------



## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)

Three-cornered stools in Hard Maple ...











Details at the end of the index here: Furniture

Regards from Perth

Derek


----------



## Dr Al

Jameshow said:


> What steel do you use for the blades?
> 
> I guess you could use cheap 6mm chisels
> 
> Cheers James



Gauge plate, which is O1 tool steel as @--Tom-- said. It's supplied in a very flat condition and is easy to harden. I had some 3 × 30 mm bar, which made all the cutters except the 5 mm ones: most are 3 mm thick; I made the 3 mm ones a bit thicker (4 mm) for strength. The 5 mm ones are actually 5 × 5 mm as I had some 5 × 5 mm gauge plate so that made it *really* easy.



--Tom-- said:


> The post mentions gauge plate, which is typically 01 tool steel.
> 
> I keep fancying making a wooden plane or two, being laminated those seem fairly straight forward, but imagine there’s a bit of fettling to get them performing well



There is a fair amount of fettling; more than I expected. As I said, the design was based on one in a book, which made them look really easy. The thing that wasn't mentioned in the book and I realised as I made them (and would do differently if I make more or had to make them again) is that the inner lamination needs to be (very slightly) thicker than the blade where it's in the body and very slightly narrower than the blade where it comes out of the body at the bottom. If the former isn't true, the blade doesn't fit; if the latter isn't true, the walnut bit won't fit in the groove made by the blade and it jams.

I ended up doing a lot of careful sanding to get the protruding bit of walnut down in thickness, which was a pain on the fence side of the 3 mm planes. If I did it again, I'd carefully mark where the walnut protruded from the fence-side piece of walnut and skim it down a bit before gluing it in place (and then use some sort of jig or dowels) to make sure it was glued in the right place).


----------



## PaulArthur

Right then. Christmas presents for the kids complete. I have wanted to make an anarchist’s tool chest Schwartz style, but I don’t have room in my workshop for one. The kids needed toy chests though, so I thought I would build them one each, and make them so that they can be converted at a later date if needed. 

They were a bit of a mission to build, to be honest. Made of beech, the stock prep took me weeks as there was so much of it, and I was making it out of rough sawn boards with live edges.

Looking forward to getting my workshop back!


----------



## Jameshow

Nice even the plinths are dovetailed! 

Well done. 

They will be a hierloom for generations to come. 

I love beech will have to try some. 

Cheers James


----------



## Bigbadmarky

I finally got around to finishing my first 'proper' project down the workshop. Its a side table with a beech frame and an oak parquet-esque top.
The frame is inlaid with a contrast (sapele) wood and contrast dowels with mortice and tennon joints. Its finished with Rag n Bone Brown's wax oil. 
The top is reclaimed oak flooring arranged in a parquet-esque pattern. The top is bound with oak trim and its all finished with Osmo Polyx.


----------



## Sean33

Just finished this in the last couple of weeks and sent of to its new home


----------



## Rorton

really nice, love how the top is hidden - does it pivot, or do you lift it by hand and rotate it?


----------



## Rich C

A fairly big project by my standards came out nicely though.
Just need to nail on some skirting board now...


----------



## fezman

Thats really nice Sean33 - I have something similar in mind for a project next year


----------



## Benchwayze

Well such a smart job. That's how the living room looked at our 'ouse when I was a nipper. Funny how things go around and come around. But yes you made a nice job. 
Regards 
John


----------



## Sean33

Rorton said:


> really nice, love how the top is hidden - does it pivot, or do you lift it by hand and rotate it?


Thanks Rorton, the top sits in the recess and you just lift it and turn it over.


----------



## mikej460

Cabinetman said:


> Hi Paul I really like that, looks simple until you examine it a bit closer, a lot of work in that. Instead of spoiling it with a bit of tin, the last thing I made even remotely like it for outside, I used proper grey slates stuck on with black building adhesive (Think black, no nails or pink stuff) . It worked really well, and you could have the slates just overhanging slightly. Ian


I put slate on ours and in the first year it was fully sealed by bees, but last summer - nothing, then I read that they won't use the holes/tubes again if they haven't been cleaned or replaced. They also won't use houses that swing about on branches. I will be copying this design though - very impressive.


----------



## Blackswanwood

I made a watch box out of a sycamore off-cut a few months ago And it ended up just sitting on my bench. My sister in law asked if I could make her a matching jewellery box as a gift for her niece.


----------



## mikej460

paulrbarnard said:


> Thought I would post this one despite it not being me that finished it today. My daughter just sent me this picture of a box she made. She sent the picture because she has finally put a danish oil finish on it, still no hinges though... She actually made the box, using hand tools, 17 years ago, and it has been unfinished since then. She flocked the inside at teh time she made it and has been using it to hold keep sakes ever since. Turns out she has been doing a bit of spoon carving for Christmas presents hence having the finish on hand.
> 
> Anyone else had/have a 17 year project on the go?
> View attachment 98823
> 
> Here she is during the actual making
> View attachment 98824
> 
> Must say my bench was looking a bit less dinged back then and I am wondering where my long straight edge went...


I started a shaker grandfather clock out of fiddleback sycamore in 2004 when I was at night school at Rycotewood College in Thame but it closed down before I could finish the case, so it's all dry stored in a box and will be finished when I get my new shop built.. sigh


----------



## mikej460

DennisCA said:


> Not yet finished, and I am making two identical ones:


is your name really 'maximus decimus meridius'


----------



## danish

I build this bench for the entrance:














a good replacement for the old one:




Made the pattern out of birch 12mm plywood, took forever, but came out nice after the Danish oil









Added oak to the corners...and brass rods for the shoe shelves - and done!


----------



## Saint Simon

Watched my wife knitting tiny jumper Christmas tree decorations for the grandchildren and thought woodwork needs representation here! So out with the scroll saw.


----------



## Benchwayze

Applause!

John


----------



## Danieljw

I made this chest, quite large, because my wife needs a place to store my grandchildren's toys.
Now I get great pleasure watching my 2.5 year old grand daughter climbing on the front trying to reach in and get stuff out... she almost falls in herself..
Made from chestnut, ash and mahogany.
The handle in the centre of the lid is made from spalted cherry.


----------



## sed9888

Really pleased with this little project, glides like a hot knife through butter


----------



## billw

Danieljw said:


> I made this chest, quite large, because my wife needs a place to store my grandchildren's toys.
> Now I get great pleasure watching my 2.5 year old grand daughter climbing on the front trying to reach in and get stuff out... she almost falls in herself..
> Made from chestnut, ash and mahogany.
> The handle in the centre of the lid is made from spalted cherry.



I especially love the brickwork effect on the sides.


----------



## paulrbarnard

danish said:


> I build this bench for the entrance:
> View attachment 99099
> 
> View attachment 99100
> 
> 
> View attachment 99101
> 
> 
> a good replacement for the old one:
> View attachment 99103
> 
> Made the pattern out of birch 12mm plywood, took forever, but came out nice after the Danish oil
> 
> View attachment 99105
> 
> View attachment 99106
> 
> Added oak to the corners...and brass rods for the shoe shelves - and done!
> 
> View attachment 99109


I love the effect. It looks like it has been woven.


----------



## triker64

Just finished small japenese style box for trinkets for my other half.


----------



## triker64

paulrbarnard said:


> I love the effect. It looks like it has been woven.


That looks impressive


----------



## billw

triker64 said:


> Just finished small japenese style box for trinkets for my other half.



Ha! Mini Japanese boxes, that's something I hadn't thought of doing. Bit fiddly with the wedge past a certain size though I'd imagine.


----------



## triker64

billw said:


> Ha! Mini Japanese boxes, that's something I hadn't thought of doing. Bit fiddly with the wedge past a certain size though I'd imagine.


Yes very had to have 3 tries on that bit. Not bad for a first attempt and 30 year gap since I last did any woodworking.


----------



## Kidneycutter

Eventually had time to make this music stand.


----------



## OldWood

More from the Scrolll saw - not my design I'm afraid. Four sets made - one already away before photographic record.
Rob


----------



## billw

triker64 said:


> Yes very had to have 3 tries on that bit. Not bad for a first attempt and 30 year gap since I last did any woodworking.



Welcome back to the fold, every first attempt is a good attempt in my book.


----------



## Peri

Clearing out the photo's on my phone ready for a new year and found these I made about this time last year.

It's a door stop, two pieces of 1 1/2" round steel bar, (turned on the lathe + a bit of milling) that extend to the bottom of the base, which has lead shot in it. Can't remember now, but it must've weighed around 20lb.

Made for my boss at work.


----------



## Felix

DennisCA said:


> Not yet finished, and I am making two identical ones:


What did the Romans ever do for us?


----------



## gregmcateer

Love them. Pictures of the recipients' parents' TV, mirrors, etc later, please


----------



## Dandan

These are my "oh, no, I forgot to get my mum something for Christmas" simple kumiko coasters. She loved them!


----------



## billw

Today I finished my “museum of test projects” which will serve as a reminder when I make something that’s not full of errors in the future. Maybe.


----------



## billw

Also made a holder for my sharpening stuff.


----------



## PaulArthur

The missus made me promise to make her a box for her sparkly things. 

This is what I came up with. Saw cut veneers on the lid and base that were left over from our coffee table, and the rest was left over from something I can’t even remember making over the last year. 

Hinges from Ian Hawthorne. Finish is Walrus Oil, Butter and Wax.


----------



## DennisCA

gregmcateer said:


> Love them. Pictures of the recipients' parents' TV, mirrors, etc later, please



They where for my own kids, so far nothing has broken, they're powerful enough to be fun but not destructive


----------



## Cirks

PaulArthur said:


> The missus made me promise to make her a box for her sparkly things.
> 
> This is what I came up with. Saw cut veneers on the lid and base that were left over from our coffee table, and the rest was left over from something I can’t even remember making over the last year.
> 
> Hinges from Ian Hawthorne. Finish is Walrus Oil, Butter and Wax.
> 
> View attachment 99320
> View attachment 99321
> View attachment 99322
> View attachment 99323
> View attachment 99324
> View attachment 99325
> View attachment 99326
> View attachment 99327



Looks lovely. You do realise that for the next birthday, anniversary, Xmas etc she’ll expect you to buy enough large sparkly things to fill it ........
Then you can make a strongroom to store it in for security


----------



## PaulArthur

Cirks said:


> Looks lovely. You do realise that for the next birthday, anniversary, Xmas etc she’ll expect you to buy enough large sparkly things to fill it ........
> Then you can make a strongroom to store it in for security



She can forget it!


----------



## nickds1

Sandyn said:


> Couple of quick bat boxes. Design is from the RSPB site, but I have seen better designs. It will be interesting to see if anything moves in.
> View attachment 96769


Lovely. We've found that it can take a couple of years for the bats to move in, depending on type and the siting of the roost.


----------



## gcusick

A bench for our front porch. It is fitted inside the letter box, so it stops the mail scattering across the porch, and provides somewhere to sit while you put your outdoor shoes on.

Made from oak solids, and oak veneered MDF. The lid lifts to get at the mail, on concealed Zyssa hinges, and the left-hand panel slides out to allow for overflows.


----------



## brocher

A bench I have just finished for my daughter and son-in-law. They are both keen skiers and were interested in having a bench made out of an old snowboard and two skis which they no longer use. Came across this design on the web, although there were no plans for it, only photos. So had to guess appropriate dimensions. Its all made out of reclaimed wood I had. A mixture of scots pine (I think) and an old fence post, dimensioned as usual with my planer thicknesser





. Finished in danish oil - 4 coats. Its all held together with M8 bolts for the leg structures and with M8 coach bolts to join the lengthwise members - one of which supports the snowboard. Its surprisingly comfortable!

Quite pleased with the look. They haven't seen it yet due to Covid - they are in Tier 4. So it will be a New Year pressie sometime! 

They have had to cancel their skiing holidays through the year, so they are hoping that by next winter they might be skiing!


----------



## paulrbarnard

brocher said:


> A bench I have just finished for my daughter and son-in-law. They are both keen skiers and were interested in having a bench made out of an old snowboard and two skis which they no longer use. Came across this design on the web, although there were no plans for it, only photos. So had to guess appropriate dimensions. Its all made out of reclaimed wood I had. A mixture of scots pine (I think) and an old fence post, dimensioned as usual with my planer thicknesserView attachment 99407
> View attachment 99408
> . Finished in danish oil - 4 coats. Its all held together with M8 bolts for the leg structures and with M8 coach bolts to join the lengthwise members - one of which supports the snowboard. Its surprisingly comfortable!
> 
> Quite pleased with the look. They haven't seen it yet due to Covid - they are in Tier 4. So it will be a New Year pressie sometime!
> 
> They have had to cancel their skiing holidays through the year, so they are hoping that by next winter they might be skiing! View attachment 99409
> View attachment 99410
> View attachment 99411


That is really nice.


----------



## brocher

I thought I would show another item I made recently. My OH saw a small piece in a catalogue about a small table which can act as centre piece on a dinner table and also sit on our sideboard. As usual I said I could do something like that! So, after rummaging through my old wood stock I found some pieces from an old oak fireplace I had been holding onto, so the top is made from two pieces of that fireplace glued together to make a thicker board. The two splayed legs are just offcuts from downsizing a couple of old oak kitchen cupboard doors. Again quite pleased with how it looks. Its finished in wax buffed up. The important thing is that my OH really likes it, and of course it provides an ideal home for some gins!


----------



## Droogs

@brocher apart from some nice woodworkmanship, I see you are a dab hand at decorating things too


----------



## brocher

Droogs, my OH has a very good eye, and I do my best to deliver what she wants!


----------



## Benchwayze

9


brocher said:


> Droogs, my OH has a very good eye, and I do my best to deliver what she wants!


Brocher. Don't we all; if we are wise!

HNY. 
John


----------



## brocher

Benchwayze said:


> 9
> Brocher. Don't we all; if we are wise!
> 
> HNY.
> John


----------



## Jameshow

Had a go at a stool this week.

It was to be a basic item but then I thought I would have a go at wedged tenons not sure they are the right joint? but a stool in small project book by fine woodworking used them.
Cheers James
s


----------



## Fitzroy

Jameshow said:


> Had a go at a stool this week.
> 
> It was to be a basic item but then I thought I would have a go at wedged tenons not sure they are the right joint? but a stool in small project book by fine woodworking used them.
> Cheers James
> sView attachment 99520



Nice job, need to be careful with wedges that are inline with the grain, a couple of too heavy blows and you’ll split the wood. 

Fitz


----------



## Popey

I made this quilt stand out of oak as a Christmas gift for my wife.


----------



## gregmcateer

Nice stool and nice quilt stand


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Not to everyone's taste, but it's different. A lamp. designed with a heavy narrow base to stand where space is restricted. Made from firewood (it's for me), the base piece is like lead. The knot is stuck in with two part filler. The bulb was chosen to avoid buying a shade - it works shape wise quite well - and is 2w.


----------



## Richard D

A dice tower plus tray. Slightly odd dimensions and construction as it splits in half for storage in the game's box.


----------



## NickVanBeest

Dice tower? Never seen one before!


----------



## doctor Bob

A few shots of kitchens we did in the later part of the year


----------



## sammy.se

doctor Bob said:


> A few shots of kitchens we did in the later part of the year


Very nice!


----------



## Dr Al

I had a couple of thin pieces of cherry that I wanted to rip in half so I made a tool to help me rip them accurately.

Here it is:






I guess you'd call it a kerfing saw or something like that. It's made out of oak, about 200 mm long and about 90 mm high; the spacers and clamp pieces are 60 mm high. I've made spacers in 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm and 8 mm thickness at the moment; I'll probably make some more in due course - they're very easy to make. The 8 mm one has more dramatically rounded edges than the others as I'll generally use that as the outer clamp piece when using thinner spacers and it makes it more comfortable in the hand having rounded edges.

The idea is that you fit a spacer about 1 mm thicker than the thickness of wood you want and then press the fence against the side of the wood while taking cuts all the way round the edge of the board. You then get a saw out and it's fairly easy to follow the pre-cut kerf.

Another view:






and another: 






The flange-button head M5 screws you can see in this picture are held in place with 5-minute epoxy, so dismantling just involves the knurled brass knobs and no tools.

Finish is four coats of Shellac and one coat of paste wax. This was the first time I'd used Shellac. It isn't as nice to apply and doesn't look quite as good as the Tung Oil/White Spirit/Varnish mix recommended to me by @MikeG., but I love the fact the coats dry so quickly so I don't have to spend several days applying finish. 

It all started with this saw blade, which I spotted on ebay for £10 (someone had bought the wrong blade for their saw). I don't have the saw but I saw a potential use:






I snapped off the tang and drilled four holes in it - I was a bit worried about how easy it would be to drill, but it was quite straightforward.

Here's what it looks like inside the saw:






Here's what the result looks like with a 9 mm thick bit of cherry and the 4 mm spacer (this was done as a test before I applied the finish or made the knurled brass knobs): 






The saw then follows the cut easily: 






The result:






Planed to 3 mm and looking good to me:






I think this saw is going to get a lot of use, which is really satisfying, especially since I started and finished making it (including the knurled knobs and all four coats of Shellac) all in one day.


----------



## doctor Bob

Above = very clever


----------



## Fitzroy

Dr Al said:


> I had a couple of thin pieces of cherry that I wanted to rip in half so I made a tool to help me rip them accurately.
> 
> Here it is:
> 
> View attachment 99655
> 
> 
> I guess you'd call it a kerfing saw or something like that. It's made out of oak, about 200 mm long and about 90 mm high; the spacers and clamp pieces are 60 mm high. I've made spacers in 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm and 8 mm thickness at the moment; I'll probably make some more in due course - they're very easy to make. The 8 mm one has more dramatically rounded edges than the others as I'll generally use that as the outer clamp piece when using thinner spacers and it makes it more comfortable in the hand having rounded edges.
> 
> The idea is that you fit a spacer about 1 mm thicker than the thickness of wood you want and then press the fence against the side of the wood while taking cuts all the way round the edge of the board. You then get a saw out and it's fairly easy to follow the pre-cut kerf.
> 
> Another view:
> 
> View attachment 99656
> 
> 
> and another:
> 
> View attachment 99657
> 
> 
> The flange-button head M5 screws you can see in this picture are held in place with 5-minute epoxy, so dismantling just involves the knurled brass knobs and no tools.
> 
> Finish is four coats of Shellac and one coat of paste wax. This was the first time I'd used Shellac. It isn't as nice to apply and doesn't look quite as good as the Tung Oil/White Spirit/Varnish mix recommended to me by @MikeG., but I love the fact the coats dry so quickly so I don't have to spend several days applying finish.
> 
> It all started with this saw blade, which I spotted on ebay for £10 (someone had bought the wrong blade for their saw). I don't have the saw but I saw a potential use:
> 
> View attachment 99658
> 
> 
> I snapped off the tang and drilled four holes in it - I was a bit worried about how easy it would be to drill, but it was quite straightforward.
> 
> Here's what it looks like inside the saw:
> 
> View attachment 99659
> 
> 
> Here's what the result looks like with a 9 mm thick bit of cherry and the 4 mm spacer (this was done as a test before I applied the finish or made the knurled brass knobs):
> 
> View attachment 99660
> 
> 
> The saw then follows the cut easily:
> 
> View attachment 99662
> 
> 
> The result:
> 
> View attachment 99663
> 
> 
> Planed to 3 mm and looking good to me:
> 
> View attachment 99664
> 
> 
> I think this saw is going to get a lot of use, which is really satisfying, especially since I started and finished making it (including the knurled knobs and all four coats of Shellac) all in one day.



Amazing, and great looking bit of kit!


----------



## billw

Dr Al said:


> I think this saw is going to get a lot of use, which is really satisfying, especially since I started and finished making it (including the knurled knobs and all four coats of Shellac) all in one day.



That's such a great idea, would be brilliant for boxmaking.


----------



## paulrbarnard

Dr Al said:


> I had a couple of thin pieces of cherry that I wanted to rip in half so I made a tool to help me rip them accurately.
> 
> Here it is:
> 
> View attachment 99655
> 
> 
> I guess you'd call it a kerfing saw or something like that. It's made out of oak, about 200 mm long and about 90 mm high; the spacers and clamp pieces are 60 mm high. I've made spacers in 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm and 8 mm thickness at the moment; I'll probably make some more in due course - they're very easy to make. The 8 mm one has more dramatically rounded edges than the others as I'll generally use that as the outer clamp piece when using thinner spacers and it makes it more comfortable in the hand having rounded edges.
> 
> The idea is that you fit a spacer about 1 mm thicker than the thickness of wood you want and then press the fence against the side of the wood while taking cuts all the way round the edge of the board. You then get a saw out and it's fairly easy to follow the pre-cut kerf.
> 
> Another view:
> 
> View attachment 99656
> 
> 
> and another:
> 
> View attachment 99657
> 
> 
> The flange-button head M5 screws you can see in this picture are held in place with 5-minute epoxy, so dismantling just involves the knurled brass knobs and no tools.
> 
> Finish is four coats of Shellac and one coat of paste wax. This was the first time I'd used Shellac. It isn't as nice to apply and doesn't look quite as good as the Tung Oil/White Spirit/Varnish mix recommended to me by @MikeG., but I love the fact the coats dry so quickly so I don't have to spend several days applying finish.
> 
> It all started with this saw blade, which I spotted on ebay for £10 (someone had bought the wrong blade for their saw). I don't have the saw but I saw a potential use:
> 
> View attachment 99658
> 
> 
> I snapped off the tang and drilled four holes in it - I was a bit worried about how easy it would be to drill, but it was quite straightforward.
> 
> Here's what it looks like inside the saw:
> 
> View attachment 99659
> 
> 
> Here's what the result looks like with a 9 mm thick bit of cherry and the 4 mm spacer (this was done as a test before I applied the finish or made the knurled brass knobs):
> 
> View attachment 99660
> 
> 
> The saw then follows the cut easily:
> 
> View attachment 99662
> 
> 
> The result:
> 
> View attachment 99663
> 
> 
> Planed to 3 mm and looking good to me:
> 
> View attachment 99664
> 
> 
> I think this saw is going to get a lot of use, which is really satisfying, especially since I started and finished making it (including the knurled knobs and all four coats of Shellac) all in one day.


I’ve been meaning to make something like this for ages. Very nice job and a very useful tool.


----------



## Chip shop

doctor Bob said:


> A few shots of kitchens we did in the later part of the year


That really is lovely work, but who wee'd themselves on the herring bone in the last pic?


----------



## Orraloon

Dr Al said:


> I had a couple of thin pieces of cherry that I wanted to rip in half so I made a tool to help me rip them accurately.
> 
> Here it is:
> 
> View attachment 99655
> 
> 
> I guess you'd call it a kerfing saw or something like that. It's made out of oak, about 200 mm long and about 90 mm high; the spacers and clamp pieces are 60 mm high. I've made spacers in 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm and 8 mm thickness at the moment; I'll probably make some more in due course - they're very easy to make. The 8 mm one has more dramatically rounded edges than the others as I'll generally use that as the outer clamp piece when using thinner spacers and it makes it more comfortable in the hand having rounded edges.
> 
> The idea is that you fit a spacer about 1 mm thicker than the thickness of wood you want and then press the fence against the side of the wood while taking cuts all the way round the edge of the board. You then get a saw out and it's fairly easy to follow the pre-cut kerf.
> 
> Another view:
> 
> View attachment 99656
> 
> 
> and another:
> 
> View attachment 99657
> 
> 
> The flange-button head M5 screws you can see in this picture are held in place with 5-minute epoxy, so dismantling just involves the knurled brass knobs and no tools.
> 
> Finish is four coats of Shellac and one coat of paste wax. This was the first time I'd used Shellac. It isn't as nice to apply and doesn't look quite as good as the Tung Oil/White Spirit/Varnish mix recommended to me by @MikeG., but I love the fact the coats dry so quickly so I don't have to spend several days applying finish.
> 
> It all started with this saw blade, which I spotted on ebay for £10 (someone had bought the wrong blade for their saw). I don't have the saw but I saw a potential use:
> 
> View attachment 99658
> 
> 
> I snapped off the tang and drilled four holes in it - I was a bit worried about how easy it would be to drill, but it was quite straightforward.
> 
> Here's what it looks like inside the saw:
> 
> View attachment 99659
> 
> 
> Here's what the result looks like with a 9 mm thick bit of cherry and the 4 mm spacer (this was done as a test before I applied the finish or made the knurled brass knobs):
> 
> View attachment 99660
> 
> 
> The saw then follows the cut easily:
> 
> View attachment 99662
> 
> 
> The result:
> 
> View attachment 99663
> 
> 
> Planed to 3 mm and looking good to me:
> 
> View attachment 99664
> 
> 
> I think this saw is going to get a lot of use, which is really satisfying, especially since I started and finished making it (including the knurled knobs and all four coats of Shellac) all in one day.


Nicely done. Would be very handy for box makers or those that dabble with luthiery. 
Regards
John


----------



## Cirks

Dr Al said:


> I had a couple of thin pieces of cherry that I wanted to rip in half so I made a tool to help me rip them accurately.
> 
> Here it is:
> 
> View attachment 99655
> 
> 
> ........... I've made spacers in 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm and 8 mm thickness at the moment; I'll probably make some more in due course - they're very easy to make.



A lovely and well made tool. Would have come in handy for some bits I’ve had to cut recently.

Catch 22 with making the spacing pieces though? Did you not need a tool like that to make the spacers for the tool?


----------



## Dr Al

Cirks said:


> Catch 22 with making the spacing pieces though? Did you not need a tool like that to make the spacers for the tool?



The advantage there was I had a lot of oak lying around, so I didn't mind being significantly more wasteful (for which read inaccurate) with the cutting when preparing the pieces. The tool comes into its own when trying to minimise the cut width, either to save material or to make sure the grain on the two pieces matches as closely as possible (for box making or whatever). I've got a lot of short offcuts of oak so I could be much less careful with that.

I guess if I was needing to be more careful with making the spacers, I could be wasteful for making the biggest one, then use that to make the next biggest one (1 mm smaller) and so on down to the smallest one.


----------



## Doug B

Turned a couple a of new to me Delta pen kits from Taylor’s Mirfield, finished with acrylic lacque, one Brown Oak the other Rippled Sycamore


----------



## doctor Bob

A car park, I'm the one in the silly hat.


----------



## Sandip

D


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Doug B said:


> Turned a couple a of new to me Delta pen kits from Taylor’s Mirfield, finished with acrylic lacque, one Brown Oak the other Rippled Sycamore View attachment 99801
> View attachment 99800


Did you notice the slight difference in size (about 25thou) between the pairs of bushes? I didn't at first and wondered why I was getting a step at the business end. They are nice kits, though.


----------



## Doug B

Yes @Phil Pascoe i always double check bushes relative to component sizes with callipers as in the dim distant past I’ve been caught out before, plus I’ve that many bushes these days even though I keep them in small component boxes there’s still a chance I’ll have mixed them up.


----------



## Illy

Made a wall clock based on a design I saw selling on the internet for a lot of dollars. Rim is mild steel formed into a circle with my Metalcraft RBR tool, then just about muddled through welding the join. Then used various bits of timber lying around.


----------



## Farm Labourer

A small chest made from locally sourced hornbeam based on a design that I saw in Roger Berwick's (Dodge) workshop a couple of months ago. I have a Woodrat but I promise that every joint was cut using handtools only!


----------



## D_W

More chisels (bottom 3). Top is a buck brothers parer.




Made from files with louro preto handles.


----------



## OldDave

Not got any photos of them finished but did a pair of espresso cups


----------



## delaney001

Got some bog oak from my uncle. Decided to try a live edge bowl.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Just finished making these weights stands/organisers. Not exactly fine woodworking, but serves a purpose and is a nice little reminder of my passion when exercising. The stands are at a 5 degree angle to both the wall and the floor, help relieve the forces of the cantilevered weights pulling the stands from the wall. The brackets I used are ideal for this purpose... I also used them on a fireplace surround/mantle 8 made years ago. If I didn’t have so many other things on my plate I might have considered turning the end cap things out of wood on the lathe, but the plastic domed caps get the job done.


----------



## [email protected]

This is last thing that I made what do you think? 


nathandavies said:


> An almost completed Credenza for a shop in Londinium
> 
> View attachment 28189
> 
> 
> Nathan


Londinuim, I thought I was the only person that said that. Nice credenza, what’s it made from?


----------



## Cabinetman

[email protected] said:


> This is last thing that I made what do you think?
> 
> Londinuim, I thought I was the only person that said that. Nice credenza, what’s it made from?


Well, you’re asking, I think the workmanship is extremely high, I’m not overwhelmed by the grain, on the drawer base it’s looking a bit too, in your face. The other thing I would question is the section of timber used both for the front and sides of the drawer, but then I’ve always been a bit of a fanatic for using fine sections for drawers, have a look at some really good quality very old stuff. I don’t want you to think I’m being critical and negative and probably it’s just my opinion and what I like to see, I say again I can’t fault your workmanship at all, very nice. Ian
Edit, I think I would have preferred to see the back of the drawer made out of the same timber as the sides, I do approve of you using a pale timber for that, it always shows up so nicely on the dovetails against the darker front wood, i’m sorry you’re probably going to think I’m being picky, one last thing it’s normal to have the back of the drawer set down lower than the front and the sides to stop it chattering as the drawer is pulled open, it does depend on the construction of the cabinet but that was why it was done originally.


----------



## billw

Cabinetman said:


> Edit, I think I would have preferred to see the back of the drawer made out of the same timber as the sides, I do approve of you using a pale timber for that, it always shows up so nicely on the dovetails against the darker front wood.



Yes I was looking at that back panel and thinking something wasn't quite right, then realised that whilst it's got symmetry, it doesn't look right and the three sides should match.

Agree on the drawer bottom too, it also looks quite "heavy"?


----------



## Stan_LIT

Beginner joined wood without screws


----------



## billw

Clean joints there @Stan_LIT, wish I could do the same


----------



## PerryGunn

Not fine woodworking but more of an enabler...

I've built a folding MFT

More pictures in Finally built a fold-down MFT


----------



## Mick p

My wife’s surprise Christmas present all recycled materials my brother has a skip hire business so all my materials are foc


----------



## Stan_LIT

I think that is one of the reason why i am more and more to the woodworking. You are taking piece of wood for someone scrap and turning it to something beautiful. Nice job i like it a lot.


----------



## [email protected]

Cabinetman said:


> Well, you’re asking, I think the workmanship is extremely high, I’m not overwhelmed by the grain, on the drawer base it’s looking a bit too, in your face. The other thing I would question is the section of timber used both for the front and sides of the drawer, but then I’ve always been a bit of a fanatic for using fine sections for drawers, have a look at some really good quality very old stuff. I don’t want you to think I’m being critical and negative and probably it’s just my opinion and what I like to see, I say again I can’t fault your workmanship at all, very nice. Ian
> Edit, I think I would have preferred to see the back of the drawer made out of the same timber as the sides, I do approve of you using a pale timber for that, it always shows up so nicely on the dovetails against the darker front wood, i’m sorry you’re probably going to think I’m being picky, one last thing it’s normal to have the back of the drawer set down lower than the front and the sides to stop it chattering as the drawer is pulled open, it does depend on the construction of the cabinet but that was why it was done originally.


Believe it or not this is the first one I’ve ever made, just made it out of tulip and sapelle as I had that in the workshop left over from a previous job. Next I’m going to have a go at sliding dovetails and once I’m happy with that I’ll make a cabinet for this drawer box to go in.


----------



## [email protected]

Stan_LIT said:


> Beginner joined wood without screws


Nice even wedges, loos great.


----------



## Doug B

saw this idea years ago for raising & lowering the thicknesser bed on my planer/thicknesser, made from Perspex & MDF











works a treat, I’ve put a video on my Instagram feed if anyone wants to see it in action.


----------



## J.A.Olsson

I made a couple of nightstands for my brother. Not exactly my regular style but I felt like designing something modern, yet suitable with the kind of furniture he already owns. Carcass (is that the right word? ) made from fumed oak, drawer fronts are oiled birch.


----------



## NickVanBeest

Was tired of the drinks packed/stored all over, so knocked this together quickly... not a show piece, but it works


----------



## billw

J.A.Olsson said:


> I made a couple of nightstands for my brother. Not exactly my regular style but I felt like designing something modern, yet suitable with the kind of furniture he already owns. Carcass (is that the right word? ) made from fumed oak, drawer fronts are oiled birch.
> 
> View attachment 100217
> View attachment 100218



Lovely effect, patience of a saint to have done it though! Was it marked out or freehand?


----------



## billw

NickVanBeest said:


> Was tired of the drinks packed/stored all over, so knocked this together quickly... not a show piece, but it works
> 
> View attachment 100223



There;'s something really therapeutic about making functional things regardless of their appearance. I often look at some of the cleat holders I've made and think "yeah, given I spend about 8 seconds in the design phase that's turned out really well".


----------



## NickVanBeest

billw said:


> There;'s something really therapeutic about making functional things regardless of their appearance. I often look at some of the cleat holders I've made and think "yeah, given I spend about 8 seconds in the design phase that's turned out really well".


Did initially think to not even draw it out, but then started to space out the shelves on the uprights, and something didn't look right, so went back inside to use trusty SketchUp, and I'm glad I did, as my arithmetic sucked, I missed 10 mm


----------



## Big Steve

Being a full time plumber I decided to combine work with my new found love of woodwork !


----------



## Richard Berry

I made this coat rack shelf for my daughter for Christmas.


----------



## billw

Big Steve said:


> Being a full time plumber I decided to combine work with my new found love of woodwork !



I love copper! Such a gorgeous colour. FInd it frustrating that it's really hard to find hardware made out of it.


----------



## gregmcateer

Me too, though probably don't see it around as it tarnishes so easily. I've heard that coating it with varnish will prevent that, but have no experience of it - open up the floor for others' to comment?


----------



## Dr Al

billw said:


> I love copper! Such a gorgeous colour. FInd it frustrating that it's really hard to find hardware made out of it.



My SWAG† would be that it's a combination of its tendency to tarnish and the fact it's an absolute pig to machine. I think brass is also stronger and a lot of people like the brass colour more.

† Scientific Wild Ar*e Guess


----------



## billw

Ah true, not quite as nice when it's green! I'm really not keen on brass, or gold for that matter. Any boxes I make will all have silver-colour fittings.


----------



## triker64

Final gluing of my small low height work bench. It will let me work easier on the floor height.


----------



## triker64

gregmcateer said:


> Me too, though probably don't see it around as it tarnishes so easily. I've heard that coating it with varnish will prevent that, but have no experience of it - open up the floor for others' to comment?


Lived on boats and I used to spray the brass with wax polish to help stop tarnishing. Some folks varnished theirs


----------



## thetyreman

gregmcateer said:


> Me too, though probably don't see it around as it tarnishes so easily. I've heard that coating it with varnish will prevent that, but have no experience of it - open up the floor for others' to comment?



a decent hardwax works well for this, best I've tried is peacock wax by skelton saws.


----------



## triker64

Stan_LIT said:


> Beginner joined wood without screws


Nicely done joints


----------



## Droogs

any laquer works, even hair spray, I used to use that for my trumpet and french horn when I was at school.

@Dr Al - are you my dad, he said that just before he went to get a packet of fags and I aint seen him since.


----------



## Dr Al

Droogs said:


> @Dr Al - are you my dad, he said that just before he went to get a packet of fags and I aint seen him since.



Eh?


----------



## Droogs

SWAG a favourite saying of his


----------



## jcassidy

Nothing like what you guys are producing, but my little contribution. Got p****d off with random bits getting in the way on my temporary workbench, so I knocked together some holders for mobile phones, battery charger and randoms. All with bits of wood from the offcuts bin and no great thought.

I then figured, hey if I'm doing this, why not see if I actually remember how to make a dovetail? Lessons learnt - my cheap saw - which is perfectly fine for DIY - just ain't gonna cut it for woodworking. My chisels aren't nearly as sharp as I thought they were. And I'm still the same rush-rush-get-it-done guy I was as a 16 year old in technical school. Only difference now is, I actually want to do it properly, rather than get out to play ball with my mates!

Will serve as good prototypes for when my shed is finished, I have some small bits of recovered mahogany saved away which will do nicely.


----------



## J.A.Olsson

billw said:


> Lovely effect, patience of a saint to have done it though! Was it marked out or freehand?


Thank you! It was done freehand, I started around the hole in the center and worked my way out circle by circle.


----------



## dgethin

I made this segmented vase on my homemade lathe


----------



## TRITON

I'll post a pic though its not really finished yet.

Maple and Bubinga mantle.
About 1/2 way done, still bits to add, sanding to do, machining of decorative features and hopefully ,maybe some inset panels in copper

I'll do a thread in 'Projects' when its done and I've all the pics, which im taking at approximate stages to give others how you go about, but from these you can see(Columns excepted) that it's really quite basic in it's construction.


----------



## SammyQ

43 minutes ago


dgethin said:


> I made this segmented vase on my homemade lathe



dgethin, wouldn't mind a photo or two of the lathe? I'm nearly there with parts for mine, but always open to experience from those 'who have gone before'? Pretty please? 

Sam


----------



## Orraloon

It's taking shape and should look great when finished. 
I made one about 14 years ago after looking around to buy an old one to do up but found nothing to suit. Was a bit nervous to start as its not something you do often but after getting into it found it not difficult at all. Two uprights with a shelf on top then decorate as much or little as you like. Being an old fashioned bloke I reckon a fireplace does not look right without one.
Regards
John


----------



## dgethin

SammyQ said:


> 43 minutes ago
> 
> 
> dgethin, wouldn't mind a photo or two of the lathe? I'm nearly there with parts for mine, but always open to experience from those 'who have gone before'? Pretty please?
> 
> Sam


----------



## Jameshow

Inspired by the coatrack upthread. I've knocked out this one for my cycling gear now it's been deported to the garage. 

Cheers James


----------



## Dr Al

Made myself an oak (ridiculous I know, but it's what I've got) back-to-front overdesigned bench hook: 






The right-hand end is use with backless Japanese (pull) saws - either in the slot, which is the width of my Japanese saw's kerf or on the end (which has magnets glued into it to keep the saw running true): 






The other end also has magnets set into it but has a slightly lower top: this can be used (with the jig the other way round) with a western saw. The relieved end is to account for the back of the western tenon saw.

The T-track in the top allows me to use a stop if I want to cut multiple pieces to the same length. Probably a bit pointless; I installed the T-track as an easy way to hang it underneath my bench so it's immediately available and figured while I was at it I'd make a stop.

As with my shooting board, the "cleat/hook" on the bottom isn't actually a cleat, it's four 20 mm dowels:






Three of them go in the jaws of the vice under normal use (the vice doesn't have to be tightened) so the moving jaw of the vice counters the pulling action of the saw. Using dowels means I can put it in a different place (or turn through 90°) if I want by putting the dowels into the dog holes on the bench.


----------



## billw

I love your workshop accessories ideas @Dr Al


----------



## Dr Al

billw said:


> I love your workshop accessories ideas @Dr Al



Awww, thanks!


----------



## Kev

Only got a couple of photos and needs a lampshade (of shops ever open again!) but thought would chip in so to speak. This was one of those side distractions that probably took far to long but became quite enjoyable and therapeutic to do. Will leave you all to spot the woods used.


----------



## Droogs

dgethin said:


> I made this segmented vase on my homemade lathe


This is very nicely done , though I think I have been watching too much news as I read that as I made this sectioned vase with a homicidal waif.

i need my bed


----------



## Popey

gregmcateer said:


> Nice stool and nice quilt stand


Thank you.


----------



## gregmcateer

Love the vase, Kev


----------



## billw

Droogs said:


> I read that as I made this sectioned vase with a homicidal waif.



So that's where my ex went.


----------



## G S Haydon

Very basic but fun use of scraps. Pipe box and drawer closely based on a version shown in a book on American pine furniture.

Hand tools aside from the timber prep.

Wood is meranti from an old door cill.

Oil finish.


----------



## Jonzjob

I was asked to make a sewing machine bobbin box and this is what I finished up with,

Cedar










A robin bobbin box.. Room enough for 24 bobbins


----------



## Fidget

I thought that I would try and make this Step Stool. 









Building a Small Step Stool - FineWoodworking


This elegant step stool offers beginner woodworkers some great lessons in joinery. Watch this video to build this small step stool project.




www.finewoodworking.com





A: because I want one and B: to try and refine my skills (ha!).

The only problem was that I didn’t have quite enough walnut to complete the project, so I had to use what was available in my workshop which turned out to be some C24 10x2.

Any way this is what I ended up with. I split the C24 on my bandsaw and let it acclimatise in my workshop for about 10 minutes and the rest was done using only hand tools apart from the cut out in the legs. I’m quite pleased with it. It does the job, but some of the mortices are a bit messy, hopefully I’ve learned something along the way


----------



## Fitzroy

Fidget said:


> I thought that I would try and make this Step Stool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Building a Small Step Stool - FineWoodworking
> 
> 
> This elegant step stool offers beginner woodworkers some great lessons in joinery. Watch this video to build this small step stool project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.finewoodworking.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A: because I want one and B: to try and refine my skills (ha!).
> 
> The only problem was that I didn’t have quite enough walnut to complete the project, so I had to use what was available in my workshop which turned out to be some C24 10x2.
> 
> Any way this is what I ended up with. I split the C24 on my bandsaw and let it acclimatise in my workshop for about 10 minutes and the rest was done using only hand tools apart from the cut out in the legs. I’m quite pleased with it. It does the job, but some of the mortices are a bit messy, hopefully I’ve learned something along the way
> 
> View attachment 100599
> View attachment 100600



Looks good. I find soft woods like pine etc the most difficult to get crisp sharp joinery on. So whilst it’s cheap and close to hand it’s a real challenge to get a great level of finish. 

Fitz.


----------



## Richard Berry

Fidget said:


> I thought that I would try and make this Step Stool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Building a Small Step Stool - FineWoodworking
> 
> 
> This elegant step stool offers beginner woodworkers some great lessons in joinery. Watch this video to build this small step stool project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.finewoodworking.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A: because I want one and B: to try and refine my skills (ha!).
> 
> The only problem was that I didn’t have quite enough walnut to complete the project, so I had to use what was available in my workshop which turned out to be some C24 10x2.
> 
> Any way this is what I ended up with. I split the C24 on my bandsaw and let it acclimatise in my workshop for about 10 minutes and the rest was done using only hand tools apart from the cut out in the legs. I’m quite pleased with it. It does the job, but some of the mortices are a bit messy, hopefully I’ve learned something along the way


Wedged tenons for the win! They always look smart. Nice work.


----------



## rob1693

Made these over Christmas break shavehorse tapered reamer and a stool for workshop


----------



## SammyQ

dgethin said:


> View attachment 100542


Thank you!! Now, THAT is inspiring! Good use of gear. And, you got that beautiful goblet out of it.

Sam


----------



## Joggerdude

My first project on my small hobby bandsaw.
A scale model of the Piper Cherokee in which my daughter is learning to fly.
Not yet painted and awaiting undercarriage.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Just a scraper. HSS two for £7.11 from China in September ......... now £9.99. Scrap ash and recycled ferrule. Upholstery nail. It was a finishing excerise as it's only a tool handle, but I quite like it - it's Liberon special effects wax Liberon Black Patinating Wax 250ml I was going to try the verdigris one, but couldn't put my hand on it. The green works well on pippy oak.


----------



## Cabinetman

rob1693 said:


> Made these over Christmas break shavehorse tapered reamer and a stool for workshop


 Love the shave horse, I’ve been wanting to make one for a long time, just not really sure what I’d do with it ha ha – it’s just one of those things I’d love to own. What do you use the tapered reamer for? Chair leg holes? Ian


----------



## Cabinetman

Phil Pascoe said:


> Just a scraper. HSS two for £7.11 from China in September ......... now £9.99. Scrap ash and recycled ferrule. Upholstery nail. It was a finishing excerise as it's only a tool handle, but I quite like it - it's Liberon special effects wax Liberon Black Patinating Wax 250ml I was going to try the verdigris one, but couldn't put my hand on it. The green works well on pippy oak.


Hi Phil, I found a similar effect by putting a little bit of ebony would dye in with a lighter coloured dye say medium Oak and just like yours did, it found all the pores in the wood. Another time I used black shoe polish and that did a similar sort of thing to what you have there. I can imagine the green would look very effective. Ian


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I expect there is a multitude of ways of doing it. I did this 1/ to test the effect and 2/ to see whether spray car laquer would work OK over the "wax". I don't mind messing about with tool handles.


----------



## G S Haydon

Basic pine box influenced by vernacular versions of the same thing. Off the shelf pine, hand tools, finished with shellac and wax.


----------



## Jonzjob

Joggerdude said:


> My first project on my small hobby bandsaw.
> A scale model of the Piper Cherokee in which my daughter is learning to fly.
> Not yet painted and awaiting undercarriage.



That's a lovely little job JoggerD. What wood is it and what saw have you got? My first was a little 3 wheel jobbie and it did me well for a couple of years. My other hobby, for 30 odd years now, is model RC gliders. One advantage you have over me is less repairs  

I look forward to seeing the finished model.


----------



## Darrell_L

Hi all, first post here, and I figured that this would be a sort of introduction as well. I've been woodworking for about 30 years, mostly with hand tools. 

My most recent project was a box for my daughter's inks, a christmas gift. Made of figured maple and walnut, finished with shellac. The top was a (sadly) cupped piece that sat for a very long time because I didn't know what to do with such a badly warped piece of wood. As a curved lid it's perfect!


----------



## Richard Berry

Darrell_L said:


> Hi all, first post here, and I figured that this would be a sort of introduction as well. I've been woodworking for about 30 years, mostly with hand tools.
> 
> My most recent project was a box for my daughter's inks, a christmas gift. Made of figured maple and walnut, finished with shellac. The top was a (sadly) cupped piece that sat for a very long time because I didn't know what to do with such a badly warped piece of wood. As a curved lid it's perfect!


Well done with the creative way you used a piece that was essentially firewood.


----------



## Fitzroy

Lockdown drags on so temporary boxes are being replaced with nicer things. Scottish oak, box joints, Osmo oil finish, recessed feet from sticky back foam. From rough sawn offcuts to a finished item in a single weekend, a record for me!





















Fitz.


----------



## D_W

Large paring chisel forged, ground and filed to shape from an old heller flat metal file. This wasn't easy to make (I expected it to warp less than it did when quenched - it need hammering back close to flat after tempering). Hammering a thin chisel on an anvil with a hardened hammer is a bit risky feeling (I doubt it's as risky as it feels like it is). 






very thin with very very thin lands near the business end. 1.1" wide, 16" long from bevel to handle end.


----------



## julianf

House warming gift for some friends. I made us one, and they seemed more impressed than i expected, so i made them one also.

Ours was made from the sink cut out waste from our worktop (beech block). This one was made from an oak block sink cut out from someone else's.

Finished in a food safe bees wax blend, which i know wont last 5 mins, but it looks nice for the gift hand over (or, as was actually the case, place on the doorstep, ring the bell, and step well back!)

The bit of metal work on the top is nothing to do with it.


----------



## sed9888

Mitre sled
Nothing as glamorous as you very skilled woodworkers are turning out but im learning all the time and this is spot on, very pleased how it turned out


----------



## billw

sed9888 said:


> Mitre sled
> Nothing as glamorous as you very skilled woodworkers are turning out but im learning all the time and this is spot on, very pleased how it turned out



Never underestimate the value of a good jig!


----------



## Adrian Thompson

A larger style food preparation board made of American black walnut, Purple Heart and beech - therapy during lockdown


----------



## ajsimmo

Steps for the hot-tub.


----------



## billw

Adrian Thompson said:


> A larger style food preparation board made of American black walnut, Purple Heart and beech - therapy during lockdown



How did you do the sides? Hand tools or router?


----------



## Paul200

Darrell_L said:


> The top was a (sadly) cupped piece that sat for a very long time because I didn't know what to do with such a badly warped piece of wood. As a curved lid it's perfect!


A couple of my 'flat top' boxes have ended up with a subtly curved top after the event


----------



## Fidget

Fitzroy said:


> ... I find soft woods like pine etc the most difficult to get crisp sharp joinery on....
> 
> Fitz.



Yes, this was one of the reasons that I did it, hoping to improve my skills!

When I first decided that I had to make one of these I had looked at the more rustic offerings, but this design when I found it seemed to be the perfect opportunity to try something a little bit harder. It seems I have a problem cutting mortices to a straight line! (must try harder). Very pleased with it, perfect for sitting on when tending my wood stove


----------



## PerryGunn




----------



## rob1693

Cabinetman said:


> Love the shave horse, I’ve been wanting to make one for a long time, just not really sure what I’d do with it ha ha – it’s just one of those things I’d love to own. What do you use the tapered reamer for? Chair leg holes? Ian



The shavehorse parts are easily removable and it doubles has a low chair making bench and a saw horse

Yes the reamer is for making tapered mortices for legs and chair parts and does different size holes depending which size hole you start with it tapers from 3/8 to 1 1/2 inch


----------



## Joggerdude

Jonzjob said:


> That's a lovely little job JoggerD. What wood is it and what saw have you got? My first was a little 3 wheel jobbie and it did me well for a couple of years. My other hobby, for 30 odd years now, is model RC gliders. One advantage you have over me is less repairs
> 
> I look forward to seeing the finished model.



Thanks

The saw is a 2 wheel Axminster HBS200N. Paid a bit more than the cheapest saw to make sure I got a cast Table. I had to fettle it a bit to make it run quiet and true but it's very good now. Added my own internal mods to the dust extraction, so it captures nearly all the waste and puts no fine dust into the room.

The wood used for the 'plane is limewood (AKA basswood). Nice straight grain, and easy to carve and finish.


----------



## TRITON

This is a good cheap upgrade for it.








Axminster Workshop Small Rip Fence Upgrade


A replacement, superior rip fence arrangement that will replace the flimsy fences found on many, low cost benchtop bandsaws. This is a very worthwhile upgrade that will make your machine more accurate to use. The fence is 370mm long and the rail 340mm....




www.axminstertools.com


----------



## Joggerdude

TRITON said:


> This is a good cheap upgrade for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Axminster Workshop Small Rip Fence Upgrade
> 
> 
> A replacement, superior rip fence arrangement that will replace the flimsy fences found on many, low cost benchtop bandsaws. This is a very worthwhile upgrade that will make your machine more accurate to use. The fence is 370mm long and the rail 340mm....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.axminstertools.com


Thanks, but I have found the supplied fence to be very accurate.
Maybe I just got a good one?


----------



## Robbo60

I didn't exactly make all of this but "upcycled" a high breakfast table (had two high stools which I'm not sure what I am going to do with?) My wife decided it would convert to a kitchen island. She did the decorating with Frenchic paint, which needs four coats and then two finishing coats and cures.
Also turned the Kitchen door "handedness around which creates more space. Happy with the result. 
As advised on another thread, I used mineral oil on butchers block top and it came up amazing


----------



## danish

Some time ago I build this out of plywood.
Now I added a chest of drawers next to it using same material and method:



















It's real fun to work with plywood and oak - the pattern takes seriously long time and tons of patience, but the result is very nice when danish oil is added. I am very new to wood working, but I love it, it's the perfect corona therapy.


----------



## Orraloon

danish said:


> Some time ago I build this out of plywood.
> Now I added a chest of drawers next to it using same material and method:
> View attachment 100849
> View attachment 100850
> View attachment 100851
> 
> View attachment 100853
> 
> View attachment 100852
> 
> 
> It's real fun to work with plywood and oak - the pattern takes seriously long time and tons of patience, but the result is very nice when danish oil is added. I am very new to wood working, but I love it, it's the perfect corona therapy.


I like the look of that. I have an old woodwork book from the 70tes that has a few projects in ply. May have to dig it out for another read.
Regards
John


----------



## Cabinetman

I just can’t imagine how long it took you Danish to glue all those bits together, the effect is most unusual. So how thick are the drawerfronts? And did you do each one separately or did you do them as a wider one and then re-saw it to thickness? Most impressed how you’ve got the pattern flowing down drawer to drawer.Ian


----------



## JDW

Workshop Bob said:


> Not as impressive as most of the work on here but heres my tv bench
> View attachment 28160


You made what you planned to make and it looks pretty tidy to me, job well done. I'm going to be making one this year, how did you join?


----------



## Doug B

Maxed out my Cole jaws this afternoon with this sweet Chestnut bowl 




240mm diameter I gave it a coat of Osmo raw oil to try & prevent it yellowing, it’ll get another couple of coats of Osmo poly-x over the weekend.


----------



## danish

Cabinetman said:


> I just can’t imagine how long it took you Danish to glue all those bits together, the effect is most unusual. So how thick are the drawerfronts? And did you do each one separately or did you do them as a wider one and then re-saw it to thickness? Most impressed how you’ve got the pattern flowing down drawer to drawer.Ian



Thanks  I like how it came out.

It was done as one large 1x1m slab:





I then cut it out to fit the 4 drawers, 1 large + 3 smaller.
The drawer fronts were too thick initially and I do not have a planer/thicknesser, so it was a real pain to make them thinner... I ended up using an angle grinder with wood cutting disks to thin it. Fronts were 1.5cm when I was done.


----------



## mikej460

billw said:


> Never underestimate the value of a good jig!


um well yes that's what I thought when I built a circle cutter for my little Dewalt as I need a 12" circle of ply for the bench sander I'm building. I tried it on a scrap bit of 9mm ply and got a perfect disc so went to cut the final item from the only piece of 18mm I have and it cut it perfectly 'almost' to the bottom. So, I thought I would simply flip it over and screw in the jig and finish it off, only to discover the jig wasn't quite right and I ended up with a off centre rim on half of the top and the other half of the base! To make matters worse I'd cut it to exactly the required finished diameter so no room for correction


----------



## billw

mikej460 said:


> um well yes that's what I thought when I built a circle cutter for my little Dewalt as I need a 12" circle of ply for the bench sander I'm building. I tried it on a scrap bit of 9mm ply and got a perfect disc so went to cut the final item from the only piece of 18mm I have and it cut it perfectly 'almost' to the bottom. So, I thought I would simply flip it over and screw in the jig and finish it off, only to discover the jig wasn't quite right and I ended up with a off centre rim on half of the top and the other half of the base! To make matters worse I'd cut it to exactly the required finished diameter so no room for correction



That sounds like most of my posts. MAKING a bench sander? I hope you'll post photos!


----------



## mikej460

billw said:


> That sounds like most of my posts. MAKING a bench sander? I hope you'll post photos!


Ok but I have to get some good quality ply delivered first as we're shielding. I will remake the jig tomorrow.


----------



## Cabinetman

mikej460 said:


> Ok but I have to get some good quality ply delivered first as we're shielding. I will remake the jig tomorrow.


 I think if it was me I would cut it out to within a few millimetres with a jigsaw and then mount it and get it spinning like a lathe and use a chisel to just trim the edge (from the front). You might have extremely good reasons why that would not work of course! Ian 
Ps You have a disk that’s only a little bit out, you could try and do what I’ve just described with that disk, it’s not imperative that it’s exactly the same size as the stick on sandpaper disc. And if you are doing a 12 inch one you can buy 300 mm or 305 mm, I think, from memory.


----------



## mikej460

Cabinetman said:


> I think if it was me I would cut it out to within a few millimetres with a jigsaw and then mount it and get it spinning like a lathe and use a chisel to just trim the edge (from the front). You might have extremely good reasons why that would not work of course! Ian
> Ps You have a disk that’s only a little bit out, you could try and do what I’ve just described with that disk, it’s not imperative that it’s exactly the same size as the stick on sandpaper disc. And if you are doing a 12 inch one you can buy 300 mm or 305 mm, I think, from memory.


You're dealing with someone with borderline OCD I'm afraid. I bought the sanding disks complete with stick on velco backing disc. I tried it against the rubbish ply disc and it overhangs enough to bring me out in hives..


----------



## Farm Labourer

mikej460 said:


> You're dealing with someone with borderline OCD I'm afraid. I bought the sanding disks complete with stick on velco backing disc. I tried it against the rubbish ply disc and it overhangs enough to bring me out in hives..


My OCD is so advanced that I have to have to it alpha-sorted to C D O


----------



## sed9888

Id love to have a go at something like this but where would I start 


Adrian Thompson said:


> A larger style food preparation board made of American black walnut, Purple Heart and beech - therapy during lockdownView attachment 100669


----------



## billw

sed9888 said:


> Id love to have a go at something like this but where would I start



glue strips of wood together then plane it, sand it, rout the edges, finish it.


----------



## Cabinetman

billw said:


> glue strips of wood together then plane it, sand it, rout the edges, finish it.



What billw said. Except for the routing and the sanding bit, that’s what hand planes are for. Ian


----------



## Oraclebhoy

I know we all have to start somewhere, so this is my current level.
One eucalyptus ring, one apple wood spoon and I made the bags as well.
I used blunt hand tools for the majority of it and a dremel with a sanding bit.


----------



## SamTheJarvis

Elm door, first door I've attempted!


----------



## Cabinetman

That’s a very nice door indeed Sam, are the panels solid? I really like the detail on that middle rail. Ian


----------



## sed9888

I made this today I have a all working area so every bit of space counts


----------



## Cabinetman

Sorry Sed, but that looks like it takes up more room than a simple narrow shelf, and what stops them dropping off?


----------



## kinverkid

Made myself a new apron. Waxed cotton and leather.


----------



## TRITON

Cabinetman said:


> That’s a very nice door indeed Sam, are the panels solid? I really like the detail on that middle rail. Ian


I believe this detail is referred to as 'Cloud lift'
Worked with an American maker who specialized in arts and crafts and after seeing the movie Zuthura, where they destroy a beautiful arts and crafts home, I asked him and he told me thats what it was called.

It is a lovely detail and the door looks great by the way. I think though the detail could be put on each rail, to carry it through and give the overall impression.

Well done on the bookmatched panels, that makes it look even better.


----------



## SamTheJarvis

Cabinetman said:


> That’s a very nice door indeed Sam, are the panels solid? I really like the detail on that middle rail. Ian



Yes all solid elm. Below is the construction:




Wedged M&Ts for the corners, dominos in the middle. Panels are made from adjacent pieces in the slab they were cut from to ensure a grain continuity. Glad you like the detail on the middle piece (mullion I believe?) took a lot of fiddling in sketchup to get it right ha.




TRITON said:


> I believe this detail is referred to as 'Cloud lift'
> Worked with an American maker who specialized in arts and crafts and after seeing the movie Zuthura, where they destroy a beautiful arts and crafts home, I asked him and he told me thats what it was called.
> 
> It is a lovely detail and the door looks great by the way. I think though the detail could be put on each rail, to carry it through and give the overall impression



Yes arts and crafts definitely the inspiration. Watched a quick video on youtube about "Greene and Greene" architecture and the style resonated. There's actually a very similar door on google images when you search for "Greene and Greene door"

And thank you for the term "cloud lift", figured there had to be one but hadn't come across it yet, good to know!


----------



## TRITON

Why not (now its complete) throw in some false tenon pegging ? as with A&C styling. square pegs.

Admittedly that makes for a bit of difficulty as its together and you cant use a morticer.

Oh the joys of hindsight  The designers oldest friend.


----------



## furnace

Sawhorses to replace manky plastic ones I've had for 20 yrs. All done from rough sawn ash with hand tools only. I'll trim the top with leather


----------



## Anthraquinone

Two two sided puzzles. The pieces fit into both sides.


----------



## Yojevol

SamTheJarvis said:


> Elm door, first door I've attempted!


Elm? Keep your fingers crossed that it stays flat. Elm is notorious for having a mind of its own over time!
Brian


----------



## paulrbarnard

The last thing I made is also the first I’ve made with laser cutting. It’s only a 30cm test cube but it worked pretty well.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Oraclebhoy said:


> I know we all have to start somewhere, so this is my current level.
> One eucalyptus ring, one apple wood spoon and I made the bags as well.


Having just cut 2 year's worth of firewood, I kept throwing suitable spoon material to one side. All I need to do now is start making spoons. You are way ahead of me there.


----------



## Droogs

TN you should have enough wood of a size to do the full kitchen tool set up


----------



## Britman

So first project out the new work shop. Very simple set of shelves for a basement storage room.


----------



## Fitzroy

Round two of monitor and computer stands, for my desk this time. Oak and ash, box joints on my jig, 30 min epoxy glued, Osmo 420 finish.

Had few offcuts wide enough, only the ash which used to be a shelf before it warped badly when the branch was, and it was only so long, hence the slightly narrow monitor stand. Had to edge joint some oak, lovely quartersawn piece. Edge jointing went well, amazing how practice makes things easier!

Box joints abs glue up are now pretty straight forwards, and think I’m ready for the coffee table glue up, although that’s 32 ‘denticles’ rather that 5 on each of these, and some 60min epoxy will be needed. I also threw a bunch of epoxy at the branch to stabilise it, seemed to work, bit messy but it’s on the underside!


----------



## Doris

Some wooden Roses. I turned on my lathe and then carved the top of.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Droogs said:


> TN you should have enough wood of a size to do the full kitchen tool set up


You are not wrong. So far I have made a nice coffee scoop, and two or three not so nice scoops. Need more practice.


----------



## furnace

Scaffold board bench all hand tools.
Pretty manky and soft timber, but the recipient wanted it cheap, knockdown and light. Wear strip and wedges are mahogany.


----------



## MarkDennehy

The item itself is nothing much to write home about, and this one was the first where I learned what I was doing wrong with workholding and order of operations, but I feel like it's a milestone because after a full year of mucking about, I finally used the lathe to do something with offcuts which is one of the things I bought it for in the first place   











Little minimalist tealight holder in oak, turned using a hot melt glue block and a great deal of effort getting the right tongue angle


----------



## Rorton

nice job, where did you get the little cup inserts from?


----------



## MarkDennehy

Amazon in the end. I tried looking for them on Erzgebirgische Volkskunst & Spielzeug im Erzgebirge Shop kaufen as recommended by Colwin Way but my german's not up to it yet 
So Teelichthalter Messing 40mm flach - Teelicht Tülle für Standard Teelichtkerzen, Größe:50er Set: Amazon.de: Alle Produkte for the cups (and Flammenloses LED Kerzen, BAONUOR 24 LED Teelichter flackernde Tealights, warmweiß, CR2032 batteriebetriebene Kerzen für Hochzeit, Weihnachten, Ostern, Party usw. [Energieklasse A++]: Amazon.de: Beleuchtung for the LED tealights because I want to try doing inside-out turned holders at some stage)


----------



## gregmcateer

Nice tealight holder. Very neat.
Now you've got to make a matching set


----------



## Chunkytfg

OH has been struggling with a bad back due to being stuck at a desk all day on google classrooms when she's used to standing so I threw together a sanding desk for her out of some Spare ply I had from a previous project. Not pretty and in need of a sand especially a the round over bit I used on the edges is getting a little blunt so was burning a bit.



Untitled by chunkytfg, on Flickr


----------



## D_W

Another file steel chisel, and a stainless (Aeb-l) plane iron. Aeb-l is a super cheap stainless that is fine grained and sharpens like a carbon steel but wears longer and more evenly than a2. The stainless iron should really be commercially heat treated, but I've come up with a way to make it decent in the open atmosphere with two mapp torches and a small forge. The crux is that it's ingot steel so to be heat treated properly, it needs to be soaked around 1900 degrees F for 10 minutes to get the chromium in solution. Ingot/cast steels don't have those bits dispersed very evenly without the soak and unlike PMs, if you just heat it and quench it, it'll be hard, but lots of large bits left in it not dissolved in will just chip. With a micro PM (like XHP/V11), you can just get to 1900F (really even less than that) and freeze the bits in the steel in place quickly and the iron will still be very fine grained. 

The difference between the two? AEB-L costs about 1/5th as much. If commercially treated, it has the potential to make a finer grained iron than V11 and wear almost as long, but be sharpenable on oilstones. 

Stainless generally costs more to make than carbon steels, but because this type is widely made for knives and commercial razor blades, it's made in large amounts and is cheap ($6 of steel in the blade shown, and about that much again in materials and gas to make the iron. Commercial heat treat with freezer time before tempering here, or cryo, costs about $60, which makes the whole equation undude unless you have a really large batch and a buyer. I've got zero interest in that, but am trying to convince LN that they should look at this as a plane iron steel). 

I'll eventually clean the scale off of both of these - it's mostly cooked quench oil.


----------



## danst96

My latest project (actually first for almost 7 years since i last used a lathe/did any wood working other than house joinery).

Some oak napkin rings and some kiat mini cheeseboards. 
They are all slightly unique which i maintain adds to the character lol.


----------



## Cordy

I'm leaving on a Jet Plane
Made from scraps & sketch of this couple of screen grabs


----------



## Dr Al

I'd never tried making a box before and I figured it would be good to have a go and use the project as an opportunity to practise hand tool woodworkery. No designs were involved in the making of this box: I just made it up as I went along in a rather haphazard way!


























Everything was done with hand tools with one exception: the walnut liners (which are 2 mm thick) were put through the thicknesser to get them even as I didn't think my hand planing skills were up to getting them that thin and even over the whole area.


----------



## G S Haydon

Bunk bed for Daughter's bedroom. The aim was to create more space. I'll be installing a basic desk underneath.
Made from stud/CLS material and painted.
I don't enjoy this work but buying a ready made version is poor value for money. This one will be easy to recycle at a later date.


----------



## TRITON

Love those little cheeseboards. They'd make nice gifts for a dinner/family do.


----------



## gregmcateer

TRITON said:


> Love those little cheeseboards. They'd make nice gifts for a dinner/family do.



Amen to that. 

What is kiat?


----------



## PaulArthur

danish said:


> Some time ago I build this out of plywood.
> Now I added a chest of drawers next to it using same material and method:
> View attachment 100851



So Danish, what is the carcass made of? Is that effectively a home-made ply out of Oak? Did you make it yourself?


----------



## danish

PaulArthur said:


> So Danish, what is the carcass made of? Is that effectively a home-made ply out of Oak? Did you make it yourself?


Hi Paul - it was some spare oak that the guys doing our kitchen left over. I didn't make it. It would have been better with solid oak, but hey, this was free


----------



## danst96

gregmcateer said:


> Amen to that.
> 
> What is kiat?


Thanks! Sorry i spelled it wrong, its Kiaat. Its an African hardwood which looks great. Smells really nice too. The only downside is it is irritating to the skin while working with it.

It was a 28mm thick plank which I halved the depth on the bandsaw to make 2 thinner planks which I halved length ways and then joined and then cut the boards out and then did a ton of sanding.


----------



## NickVanBeest

danst96 said:


> ... Kiaat. ...


Remember using kiaat when making the frame for a wall clock in my last year of school (1984) in SA, lovely wood to work with, and beautiful when combined with a lighter wood for accents!


----------



## danst96

NickVanBeest said:


> Remember using kiaat when making the frame for a wall clock in my last year of school (1984) in SA, lovely wood to work with, and beautiful when combined with a lighter wood for accents!


Thats really cool, maybe you were in my dad's class, also from SA he made a clock with a Kiaat frame. I will try find a picture.


----------



## danst96

There you go, not a great photo sorry this was way back in around '97 in SA. Probably have a more recent photo somewhere. Its in the loft now as the mechanism stopped working


----------



## NickVanBeest

Looks very familiar... 

I don't even have a photo of mine that I know of. As far as I remember, it was the final project for a number of years for all matriculants... I know my brother made one as well the year before me.

Edit: Just get a new mechanism... they were simply plastic contraptions we bought for next to nothing, and ran of batteries  (see this and this)


----------



## danst96

My dad's was a proper mechanical mechanism with weights and chimes etc. You can kind of see in the picture. The face etc is all one piece.
A good clocksmith could repair it I'm sure.


----------



## TRITON

Kiaat aka Muninga





Muninga | The Wood Database (Hardwood)







www.wood-database.com


----------



## GrahamRounce

Are you sure it wasn't "brownie points"?


----------



## AFFF

Not the last thing I made but the nicest sounding thing I've ever made


----------



## GuitardoctorW7

Well not strictly a woodworking project as such but it is made from Indian rosewood, and will probably bore to death most of you so apologies in advance for the story and feel free to skip.
I've been developing my skills in the Luthiery dept. and the lockdowns have given me time to develop them away from the day job.
I have a 50 year old Gibson Les Paul Deluxe. It was my first 'grown up guitar' and was badly re-fretted 35 years ago by an silly person. Basically he planed the fingerboard, why I'll never know as it was fine, but being young and naive I believed the "expert". The expert managed to damage some of the pearloid inlays !!!! His remedy "don't worry I've repaired them with Araldyte and silver paint"...... So you can imagine how upset I was at the end result.
Luckily I befriended a proper Luthier a little while later called Graham Wheeler from Ashington, Sussex. He's done the odd bit of work for some blokes called Eric Clapton and Midge Ure, so I guess I was in safe company. He replaced the damaged inlay with some 60's pearl but it never matched, and the fingerboard was way too thin, the position marker dots were half moons.
So I had the crazy idea during the first lockdown of removing the fingerboard, making a mahogany packer to go underneath and hiding it with fresh binding.
OOPS. My friend Graham advised against it as it was a lot of work for a skilled Luthier let alone me but I gave it a go. No manner of fancy fingerboard heaters would budge the glue and as I worked my way down from the nut I ended up with a mosaic of old fingerboard pieces as they would crack and break at every fret line due to their thickness or lack of.
I rapidly came to the conclusion that the immaculate Gold Top nitro finish would suffer damage if I proceeded with my "work" so I chiselled the rest of the board off, thinking I could at least get it replaced by a specialist, which I could but we're talking £1500 or so with freight.
So I bit the bullet and made my own. I had to buy several rosewood blanks before I came up with the right shade to match what was on the old girl. Then I shaped, inlayed, bound and fretted the board. Much to my surprise it came out alright (and I am very fussy, with a good eye for detail).
It did it provide my Luthier friend with a great deal of amusement but his mantra was "You won't f**k it up" and he was right!

_I've just noticed that when I posted this, the word I D I O T it was automatically replaced with silly person, seriously!!_


----------



## Tuna808

Brave attempt,I’m glad all went well.Did you remove the neck from the body?....check out  Playability enhanced .Show you how Martin guitars finely tune the action on their guitars.


----------



## thetyreman

GuitardoctorW7 said:


> Well not strictly a woodworking project as such but it is made from Indian rosewood, and will probably bore to death most of you so apologies in advance for the story and feel free to skip.
> I've been developing my skills in the Luthiery dept. and the lockdowns have given me time to develop them away from the day job.
> I have a 50 year old Gibson Les Paul Deluxe. It was my first 'grown up guitar' and was badly re-fretted 35 years ago by an silly person. Basically he planed the fingerboard, why I'll never know as it was fine, but being young and naive I believed the "expert". The expert managed to damage some of the pearloid inlays !!!! His remedy "don't worry I've repaired them with Araldyte and silver paint"...... So you can imagine how upset I was at the end result.
> Luckily I befriended a proper Luthier a little while later called Graham Wheeler from Ashington, Sussex. He's done the odd bit of work for some blokes called Eric Clapton and Midge Ure, so I guess I was in safe company. He replaced the damaged inlay with some 60's pearl but it never matched, and the fingerboard was way too thin, the position marker dots were half moons.
> So I had the crazy idea during the first lockdown of removing the fingerboard, making a mahogany packer to go underneath and hiding it with fresh binding.
> OOPS. My friend Graham advised against it as it was a lot of work for a skilled Luthier let alone me but I gave it a go. No manner of fancy fingerboard heaters would budge the glue and as I worked my way down from the nut I ended up with a mosaic of old fingerboard pieces as they would crack and break at every fret line due to their thickness or lack of.
> I rapidly came to the conclusion that the immaculate Gold Top nitro finish would suffer damage if I proceeded with my "work" so I chiselled the rest of the board off, thinking I could at least get it replaced by a specialist, which I could but we're talking £1500 or so with freight.
> So I bit the bullet and made my own. I had to buy several rosewood blanks before I came up with the right shade to match what was on the old girl. Then I shaped, inlayed, bound and fretted the board. Much to my surprise it came out alright (and I am very fussy, with a good eye for detail).
> It did it provide my Luthier friend with a great deal of amusement but his mantra was "You won't f**k it up" and he was right!
> 
> _I've just noticed that when I posted this, the word I D I O T it was automatically replaced with silly person, seriously!!_



very nice job, did you use mother of pearl for the inlays? they look very neat. I've met a few dodgy guitar techs myself over the years of playing.


----------



## GuitardoctorW7

Tuna808 said:


> Brave attempt,I’m glad all went well.Did you remove the neck from the body?....check out  Playability enhanced .Show you how Martin guitars finely tune the action on their guitars.



No I left the neck on as it would've ruined the finish on the back. I was trying to avoid as much touch up as possible


----------



## GuitardoctorW7

thetyreman said:


> very nice job, did you use mother of pearl for the inlays? they look very neat. I've met a few dodgy guitar techs myself over the years of playing.


They are 60's pearloid made by the Italian company that made the originals. Cost about £50. Laser cut. I inlayed them with a mini router base on my Dremel and marked the lines with a sharp scalpel for definition


----------



## Farmer Giles

I needed a beer table for the bar, the design criteria was cheap and quick as I need to finish off lots of DIY, but I needed a bit of a break from making kitchens, I had some resin left over from a job, a piece of old oak that was close to bark in places and some legs of an old Ikea desk the wobbled like Bambi on ICE.

Bit of oak, lots of shakes






split it down the middle and glue it onto some offcut OSB






put an oak frame around it.






pour some resin with a heavy blue mica tint to hide the OSB. While that is going off, my daughters glued some debris to the banks, old car tyres, rusty oil drums, builders rubble. A bit of social commentary.






before the first coat is fully set, pour in the remaining resin in, lighter tint so you can see the rubbish.






Sand through the grits to 400 then a couple of coats of OSMO, cut the IKEA legs down and screw to the base.






Just need to fill the glasses with beer 

I have got the river table thing out of my system. However, my brother wants one, I think I shall put some different rubbish in, I have some ideas.

Cheers
Andy


----------



## MarkDennehy

gregmcateer said:


> Nice tealight holder. Very neat.
> Now you've got to make a matching set


Since you insisted...





They're not exactly matching mind, this business of using up offcuts is something I need more practice with....


----------



## gregmcateer

Good job, sir!


----------



## gregmcateer

Farmer Giles,
What resin do you use that doesnt bubble?


----------



## jameskidd

This was made from spare wood in the garage.


----------



## jameskidd

My 3rd cigar box guitar.


----------



## freeflier

G S Haydon said:


> Bunk bed for Daughter's bedroom. The aim was to create more space. I'll be installing a basic desk underneath.
> Made from stud/CLS material and painted.
> I don't enjoy this work but buying a ready made version is poor value for money. This one will be easy to recycle at a later date.



I was very pleased to see your bunkbed project - a job well done. This is exactly what I want to build for my 7-year old granddaughter. 

Do you have a cutting list/plans/list of fixing, or anything that you are happy to share?
Thanks.


----------



## G S Haydon

freeflier said:


> I was very pleased to see your bunkbed project - a job well done. This is exactly what I want to build for my 7-year old granddaughter.
> 
> Do you have a cutting list/plans/list of fixing, or anything that you are happy to share?
> Thanks.


Thanks for the feedback. If I had any I would be happy to share them. I just built it as I went.
I made sure a single mattress would fit within the framework and the rest fell into place. The end frames are glued up but the long rails are dry fit and screwed.
The stud material was not nice to use and I just had to accept parts of it are bent and twisted. I accepted that as a mass produced item would of been of similar quality.
If you have the time, draw up a setting out rod and have a go.


----------



## AFFF

GuitardoctorW7 said:


> Well not strictly a woodworking project as such but it is made from Indian rosewood, and will probably bore to death most of you so apologies in advance for the story and feel free to skip.
> I've been developing my skills in the Luthiery dept. and the lockdowns have given me time to develop them away from the day job.
> I have a 50 year old Gibson Les Paul Deluxe. It was my first 'grown up guitar' and was badly re-fretted 35 years ago by an silly person. Basically he planed the fingerboard, why I'll never know as it was fine, but being young and naive I believed the "expert". The expert managed to damage some of the pearloid inlays !!!! His remedy "don't worry I've repaired them with Araldyte and silver paint"...... So you can imagine how upset I was at the end result.
> Luckily I befriended a proper Luthier a little while later called Graham Wheeler from Ashington, Sussex. He's done the odd bit of work for some blokes called Eric Clapton and Midge Ure, so I guess I was in safe company. He replaced the damaged inlay with some 60's pearl but it never matched, and the fingerboard was way too thin, the position marker dots were half moons.
> So I had the crazy idea during the first lockdown of removing the fingerboard, making a mahogany packer to go underneath and hiding it with fresh binding.
> OOPS. My friend Graham advised against it as it was a lot of work for a skilled Luthier let alone me but I gave it a go. No manner of fancy fingerboard heaters would budge the glue and as I worked my way down from the nut I ended up with a mosaic of old fingerboard pieces as they would crack and break at every fret line due to their thickness or lack of.
> I rapidly came to the conclusion that the immaculate Gold Top nitro finish would suffer damage if I proceeded with my "work" so I chiselled the rest of the board off, thinking I could at least get it replaced by a specialist, which I could but we're talking £1500 or so with freight.
> So I bit the bullet and made my own. I had to buy several rosewood blanks before I came up with the right shade to match what was on the old girl. Then I shaped, inlayed, bound and fretted the board. Much to my surprise it came out alright (and I am very fussy, with a good eye for detail).
> It did it provide my Luthier friend with a great deal of amusement but his mantra was "You won't f**k it up" and he was right!
> 
> _I've just noticed that when I posted this, the word I D I O T it was automatically replaced with silly person, seriously!!_


Lovely work guitardoctor! So much more skill involved than the work I do which is all straight lines and square angles (occasional 45°) Luthier work is all curves!


----------



## freeflier

Thank you.


----------



## Farmer Giles

gregmcateer said:


> Farmer Giles,
> What resin do you use that doesnt bubble?



I used almost the first I found on amazon so must have got lucky. I didn't even bother using a heat gun or blowtorch which is the usual technique for helping bubble removal. First time I have used resin, quite good fun and very useful for stabilising big cracks.


----------



## Farmer Giles

The kids are showing an interest in chess so made this for them. It may become the top of a full games table if I get time. First cut some ash and dark American walnut into strips and glue up. The walnut was from a resaw cock-up so I glued it to some ply first.





then cut this into strips






And arrange into a chess board.






I have some scabby bits of oak that the sawmill was going to throw away when I had a tree planked a few years ago 






these are pure gold, you can get a lot of nice burr from them. mostly little bits






and some bigger bits






but they are close to bark so not easy to cut into thinner veneers






so opted to keep them about 20mm thick and use PU glue so it foams up and fills the barky voids, here's the start of piecing it together






And finished with dark brown tinted resin filling the cracks and knots. It took three applications of resin. I poured it on, let it settle in for 20 mins, moved it around a bit then scraped off the excess with a plastic squeegee, let it set then re-apply. Far better than leaving it on thick to set which then takes ages to sand. I'm a resin novice but quite liking what you can do with it. Then took it down to 400 grit then 3 light coats of osmo.






The kids love it, I have a few ideas for a games table but that may be later in the year - back to the kitchen and utility, nearly finished, well, about 2 months away.

Cheers
Andy


----------



## Hornbeam

Cheval mirror in walnut and beech inlay. The problem photographing mirrors is not to get yourself or the mess behind you in the photo. Failed on 1 count. 
The mirror frame is made with mitred corners, strengthened with internal loose splines. The 4mm inlay was fitted before any of the joints or were cut
Each leg is laminated up in 2 separate halves using a former I had used previously. The 2 halves are then planed and fitted back to back to form the y shape. 2 of the smallest dominos are fitted just above the point where the legs join to strengthen the joint The beech inlay lines are actually full width laminates 
The cross piece is again laminated with full thickness beech inlay
The pivot mechanism is home made. A 4 mm thick piece of brass is fitted into the mirror frame. This is held with csk brass screws and has a central hole drilled an tapped 5mm, The knobs were laminated and turned on the diagonal. A piece of 5mm brass rod is epoxied into each knob. There is a small collar between the mirror frame and the leg to give clearance . As the mirror rotates slightly one side tightens and the other loosens. This is fine for the small range of movement


----------



## Sachakins

New lockdown 2021 project, trying ring turning for first time.


----------



## danish

For some time I've been working through the oak left over from the kitchen installation people. I build this chest of drawers a few weeks ago, and today I put this neat little cupboard/cabinet together. It's around 55x50x40 and it's meant to hide all the ugly cables under the desk.







I've always used danish oil, but today I tried my luck with Osmo's graphite and I like how it turned out.





I added some small rubber wheels to it and it's rolling nicely.
I am very new to wood working and it was my first time trying to install a hinge, and this was way harder than I thought it would be. I went for these ones from Hafele - and while I haven't got a lot of experience, I do not think I'd recommend them to anyone else.

Also, the door is basically made of two x 5cm wide boards with a bunch of sticks inserted to them. I do not have a proper routing table or a dado stack for the table saw, so this was absolutely super duper hard. I ended up numbering each and every inset to match them with single cut sticks. And even then I got most of them wrong.






On that note, I am using a 12 year old SIP 10' table saw from Ebay. I love it, but does anyone here know if it's possible to fit a dado stack to it? It's not, right?

All in all I am happy with it though, and I learned a lot from this project.
I have two long planks of wood left, I think my next project will be a daybed. 

EDIT: I just did a search here for the dado stack point above, and it seems there are plenty of discussions on the subject


----------



## cowtown_eric

A carraige-makers bevel square. Long on my lust-list, so finally made one. Dunno when I'll ever need one again, 

Eric in the colonies


----------



## greenfingers2

Morning Guys - now well into retirement and never been a woodworker but really enjoy reading this forum, and seeing the wonderful work by all the experts. In a moment of "lockdown madness" decided to buy myself a hobby bandsaw (something I've never used before) and play around in my garage. Read and took note of all the safety procedures and took my first tentative steps. Now I hope all you professionals will try not to smile but here's my first efforts. There is supposed to be a third baby elephant but the curves looked far too tight to me, probably would be O K in expert hands.


----------



## Cooper

greenfingers2 said:


> a hobby bandsaw (something I've never used before) and play around in my garage.


For someone new to the excitement and thrills of a band saw, your giraffe's knees and feet are a *tour de force!! Well done.*


----------



## jcassidy

Basic tool rack, inspired by something I saw on Popular Woodworking. Largely for practise of square cross-cuts, truing, smoothing and squaring some rough-sawn, warped, and poor quality, pallet wood.

Next version will feature haunched rabbits on both upgrights (instead of only one!) and mortice & tenon joinery, instead of screws. Will also sharpen up and use some of the old wooden beading planes I got from somewhere. I'll still be using crappy pallet wood until I'm sure I've blown off most of the cobwebs. Also because I quite like the live edge on some of the boards.

It's surprising what long-buried skills resurface once you get going...


----------



## jcassidy

jcassidy said:


> Basic tool rack, inspired by something I saw on Popular Woodworking. Largely for practise of square cross-cuts, truing, smoothing and squaring some rough-sawn, warped, and poor quality, pallet wood.



Missus suggested a shelf, and I turned some pegs with a poor mans lathe, i.e. drilla and rough sandpaper!


----------



## Essex Barn Workshop

Not my most elegant build, but most recent. My first french cleat system






used to hold my 6' sandpaper discs. The lettering is thin masking tape. The bottom row were all made from bits of scrap, hence the different sizes, the top row from a piece of scrap MDF so a bit more uniform!


----------



## Jameshow

Essex Barn Workshop said:


> Not my most elegant build, but most recent. My first french cleat system
> 
> View attachment 102194
> 
> 
> used to hold my 6' sandpaper discs. The lettering is thin masking tape. The bottom row were all made from bits of scrap, hence the different sizes, the top row from a piece of scrap MDF so a bit more uniform!
> 
> View attachment 102195



Nice 

I think you should spray paint those numbers and peal off the tape!

Cheers James


----------



## Dr Al

I'm not sure what I planned to make today, but it certainly wasn't this...

Today I made some bookmarks:






There's a bit of a back story to these (although it's probably not very interesting!) A year or two ago when we were emptying out my father-in-law's house & sheds, we came across four lumps of wood coated in something like creosote. We weren't sure what they were but I couldn't bring myself to chuck them out so I brought them home. Here's two of them:






Having taken a hand-plane to the top surface of one of them, I realised it's actually quite nice wood:






I posted some pictures (with sapele, oak, iroku & red oak next to the wood for reference) on another thread and the consensus was that it's greenheart.

Anyway, today I was slicing one of the blocks up into a few pieces and went a bit awry with the hand saw so one of the pieces was a lot thinner than planned (and rather tapered across the width ). Following a conversation on another forum, I thought I'd do an experiment and see how thin I could successfully machine a bit of wood using my thicknesser (someone had commented that they wouldn't dare go down as low as 2 mm).

I passed the thin piece through the thicknesser (taped down to a sled) over and over again until the first time bits started to chip away. This is what it looked like then: you can see where it's started to chip out on the right and where there's a hole in the top-left.






I measured the thickness all the way round the edge and it's between 0.5 mm and 0.6 mm (I guess my thicknesser doesn't cut quite square).

I didn't really have anything to do with this thin piece, so I thought I'd cut it up into bookmark shaped pieces, treat with a couple of coats of Danish Oil (the photo at the top is after the first coat) and then my other half and her two siblings can have one each (since the wood came from their late father's shed, it seemed to me to be a nice gesture).


----------



## jcassidy

Dr Al said:


> A year or two ago when we were emptying out my father-in-law's house & sheds, we came across four lumps of wood coated in something like creosote.



How did you get the smell out? I came across some sort of electrical test harness made of lovely hardwood (mahogany or something) from an old engineers office, but it's just stinking of decades of oil permeated into it, no matter how much I plane off the surface...
thanks
John C.


----------



## D_W

Four more paring chisels, nearing ready for quench and temper after last two get their bolster ground and filed.


----------



## doctor Bob

I made a double sofa for the dogs.
However teenager dog is a chewer so I converted it today to a single sofa and a jail.





To be fair he only gets put in there if the dogs are left for an hour.


----------



## Droogs

are you gonna put up a vid @DW


----------



## Dr Al

jcassidy said:


> How did you get the smell out? I came across some sort of electrical test harness made of lovely hardwood (mahogany or something) from an old engineers office, but it's just stinking of decades of oil permeated into it, no matter how much I plane off the surface...
> thanks
> John C.



It didn't smell particularly strongly even before I planed it. Afterwards, it smells like wood to me. Maybe I was just lucky with whatever the coating is.


----------



## Dr Al

Dr Al said:


> I'm not sure what I planned to make today, but it certainly wasn't this...
> 
> Today I made some bookmarks:
> 
> View attachment 102213



I decided to make some more today out of European Walnut (using a table saw to do the first cut rather than a hand saw). Thicknesser took the material down to 0.8 mm without any tear-out and I figured that would do:


----------



## NickVanBeest

Dr Al said:


> I decided to make some more today out of European Walnut (using a table saw to do the first cut rather than a hand saw). Thicknesser took the material down to 0.8 mm without any tear-out and I figured that would do:


What thicknesser do you use?


----------



## Dr Al

NickVanBeest said:


> What thicknesser do you use?



Makita 2012NB


----------



## D_W

Droogs said:


> are you gonna put up a vid @DW



I did before, but I will admit it's no good and I need to re-do it. I didn't show the hammering as I was afraid of criticism from safety nazis, but since then, I've had no incidents with hot flying metal and covering up in full leathers with heavy hands would make hammering these little thin things difficult. 

Paring chisels out of water hardening steel (like files) are kind of difficult - they can warp two ways, and you can lose one or two per half dozen straightening them after quench and temper -I lost one of the three above. I have a feeling that in factories, they left the bevels small and cut them on a high speed wet wheel. I have no such option and like to file to shape. 

At any rate, I'll do a higher quality video at some point. 

There are steels that would be easy to use for this (like A2), but I don't like most of them and will trouble through the warping, etc.


----------



## Droogs

i was wondering about them ending up looking like Katanas due to the metal as you quenched them


----------



## Nelly111s

A lady came into the workshop a short while ago with a garden trowel which has sentimental value and asked me to make a new handle for it. I think the old one was beech. New one is olive.






New Handle











Other side of new handle











Old handle, split with a chisel (didn't take much).

I hope the lady in question likes it when she picks it up.

Neil


----------



## jcassidy

Dr Al said:


> I posted some pictures (with sapele, oak, iroku & red oak next to the wood for reference) on another thread and the consensus was that it's greenheart.



Just curious, did it blunt your tools??? 

I think the nature of the timber stopped whatever it was treated with from penetrating very deeply.


----------



## Jameshow

Nelly111s said:


> A lady came into the workshop a short while ago with a garden trowel which has sentimental value and asked me to make a new handle for it. I think the old one was beech. New one is olive.
> 
> View attachment 102389
> 
> 
> New Handle
> 
> View attachment 102390
> 
> 
> View attachment 102391
> 
> 
> Other side of new handle
> 
> View attachment 102394
> 
> 
> View attachment 102395
> 
> 
> Old handle, split with a chisel (didn't take much).
> 
> I hope the lady in question likes it when she picks it up.
> 
> Neil



I'd suggest you have a chair handy when she returns to pick it up! 

Absolutely gorgeous! 

Cheers James


----------



## mr edd

I made an English style marking gauge after watching Richard Maguires video about them.
After using it for 6 months I liked it so much I have started to make another 3 to keep it company.

I guessed the dimensions off Richards video, if anyone has an old example I would be interested to know the dimensions.

Cheers

Ed


----------



## Dr Al

jcassidy said:


> Just curious, did it blunt your tools???
> 
> I think the nature of the timber stopped whatever it was treated with from penetrating very deeply.



I didn't notice a dramatic effect on the tools. The thicknesser is fairly new so hasn't had a huge amount of wear before this, but as well as this bit of greenheart, I put four other slices through (both sides, one before cutting in half and one after if that makes sense). Afterwards I did the walnut and it gave a lovely finish straight off the thicknesser, so I can't imagine it's blunt.

The hand plane I used to do the outside of the original block (and remove the coating) also stayed sharp.


----------



## Robbo60

Had the trowel for 25 years - only had 6 new handles and 7 new blades


----------



## paulrbarnard

mr edd said:


> I made an English style marking gauge after watching Richard Maguires video about them.
> After using it for 6 months I liked it so much I have started to make another 3 to keep it company.
> 
> I guessed the dimensions off Richards video, if anyone has an old example I would be interested to know the dimensions.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> EdView attachment 102409
> View attachment 102410


Nicely done!
I have a rack full of them and no two are the same size.


----------



## Nelly111s

Robbo60 said:


> Had the trowel for 25 years - only had 6 new handles and 7 new blades


Trigger’s broom.


----------



## Doug B

Fitted a couple of cupboards for a lady today that I’d made last week, the left hand one covers the electric meter & fuse board, the right houses a miriad of tv & internet boxes.






The 18mm MR MDF door stiles & rails were grooved for a 6mm panel & jointed with stub tenons, the tops had a mitred front piece added to give the impression of a top thicker than 18mm & also to conceal the cut edge, the frames were just dominoed together.


----------



## owen

Doug B said:


> Fitted a couple of cupboards for a lady today that I’d made last week, the left hand one covers the electric meter & fuse board, the right houses a miriad of tv & internet boxes.
> 
> View attachment 102469
> 
> 
> The 18mm MR MDF door stiles & rails were grooved for a 6mm panel & jointed with stub tenons, the tops had a mitred front piece added to give the impression of a top thicker than 18mm & also to conceal the cut edge, the frames were just dominoed together.
> 
> View attachment 102470
> 
> 
> View attachment 102471



Nice, any photos of inside the cabinets?


----------



## Doug B

owen said:


> Nice, any photos of inside the cabinets?


I didn’t take any as I was in a bit of a rush, I’d still got to load the van up & it was a quarter past five by the time I’d got that room back straight.


----------



## owen

Doug B said:


> I didn’t take any as I was in a bit of a rush, I’d still got to load the van up & it was a quarter past five by the time I’d got that room back straight.



No worries  was just being nosey


----------



## Robinski

Wow there is some nice stuff on here. This is the last thing i made. I feel should point out though that it is about 5 inches tall......


----------



## julianf

There's virtually no wood work in this one, but im still going to post it up.















Shipped this morning.


----------



## jcassidy

julianf said:


> There's virtually no wood work in this one, but im still going to post it up.
> View attachment 102485



I'd love to put this up on my wall and when asked, I'd say it's London underground, and confuse the f*** out people.


----------



## julianf

jcassidy said:


> I'd love to put this up on my wall and when asked, I'd say it's London underground, and confuse the f*** out people.



It will have a load of electronics in it, knobs and sockets and stuff, but all i do is the metal work, paint, wood, and print. Well, basically, i don't do the electronics.


----------



## AFFF

Last piece of furniture I made. All from scrap timber from another job. Recycling!


----------



## TRITON

mr edd said:


> I made an English style marking gauge after watching Richard Maguires video about them.
> After using it for 6 months I liked it so much I have started to make another 3 to keep it company.
> 
> I guessed the dimensions off Richards video, if anyone has an old example I would be interested to know the dimensions.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> EdView attachment 102409
> View attachment 102410


Very nice Ed, cannot have too many marking gauges. Very handy is one for pencil scribing.


----------



## Robbo60

Doug B said:


> Fitted a couple of cupboards for a lady today that I’d made last week, the left hand one covers the electric meter & fuse board, the right houses a miriad of tv & internet boxes.
> 
> View attachment 102469
> 
> 
> The 18mm MR MDF door stiles & rails were grooved for a 6mm panel & jointed with stub tenons, the tops had a mitred front piece added to give the impression of a top thicker than 18mm & also to conceal the cut edge, the frames were just dominoed together.
> 
> View attachment 102470
> 
> 
> View attachment 102471


How Peter Millard makes them. Just got a grooving blade for my table saw, so going to make some once I've made cupboards. Nice job


----------



## Doug B

Robbo60 said:


> How Peter Millard makes them. Just got a grooving blade for my table saw, so going to make some once I've made cupboards. Nice job


I do mine on the spindle moulder it’s the quickest way I’ve found, cut the slot with an adjustable groover running the rail through twice flipping the rail over so the slot is dead central.






Then place a packer under the rail to cut the tenon, again flipping the rail to cut both cheeks.






Guarding remove for photographic purposes obviously....


----------



## Amateur




----------



## Amateur

Just about finished this tv table.
Its huge 1.8m long for a 73 inch tv.
The mind boggles


----------



## Amateur




----------



## Amateur

Wallnut banded cigar humidor.
Lined with cedar.


----------



## mr edd

TRITON said:


> Very nice Ed, cannot have too many marking gauges. Very handy is one for pencil scribing.


Thanks TRITON, a pencil gauge is on my list, and probably a long panel gauge too


----------



## TRITON

Ahh, the last one I made,admittedly, the _only_ one I've made was a mortice gauge, approximately 16" long, in rosewood. 
I gifted it to my college, wish I'd actually kept it now.

They have to be the simplest, but most useful tool we have and utterly invaluable.


----------



## B3nder

Not quite up to the caliber of other people on here. 

The clamp on the right was the first one I made, using sycamore, the one on left using some random wood anyone have an idea what wood it is (I have no idea!)


----------



## Fanous

Good day

I'm sharing with you my little project - a silencer box for an air compressor.

Design premise - cheap and functional, relatively small. Will only run for a minute max (don't worry about overheating), to fill a pressure pot. It will live in the house tucked under a work desk.

If not obvious from the pictures, I've starter with the base, where I placed the labirynt for the air intake. Used a carpet off cuts I had available. Once fully closed off, I've placed the springs somewhat evenly to support a plate for the actual compressor. Then I glued the box sides on, finished with the top board to have a complete cube. Cube was then split in two halfs, and I have doubled the walls in the base, to A. provide thicker barrier for the sound, and B. to act as a guide to fit the lid over the box. For supply of electricity, I've just bought an extention lead, switch and a grommet. For the air hose, this was 600mm whip and quickfit connector, which I epoxy glued in place. Last steps was internal padding, and there I called it finished, and ready for use.

How was the result? I don't want to blow my own trumpet, but it was better then I was hoping for. without the box and compressor running, you would have to shout quite hard to be able to communicate. With the box, it's just a quiet talk, as you would like it. You know it's running, but you don't really care that much about it running.

What do you guys thing? Not pretty by any means, but works a treat.


----------



## Dominik Pierog

.


----------



## kinverkid

Fanous said:


> Good day
> 
> I'm sharing with you my little project - a silencer box for an air compressor.
> 
> Design premise - cheap and functional, relatively small. Will only run for a minute max (don't worry about overheating), to fill a pressure pot. It will live in the house tucked under a work desk.
> 
> If not obvious from the pictures, I've starter with the base, where I placed the labirynt for the air intake. Used a carpet off cuts I had available. Once fully closed off, I've placed the springs somewhat evenly to support a plate for the actual compressor. Then I glued the box sides on, finished with the top board to have a complete cube. Cube was then split in two halfs, and I have doubled the walls in the base, to A. provide thicker barrier for the sound, and B. to act as a guide to fit the lid over the box. For supply of electricity, I've just bought an extention lead, switch and a grommet. For the air hose, this was 600mm whip and quickfit connector, which I epoxy glued in place. Last steps was internal padding, and there I called it finished, and ready for use.
> 
> How was the result? I don't want to blow my own trumpet, but it was better then I was hoping for. without the box and compressor running, you would have to shout quite hard to be able to communicate. With the box, it's just a quiet talk, as you would like it. You know it's running, but you don't really care that much about it running.
> 
> What do you guys thing? Not pretty by any means, but works a treat.


That's a nice job. I boxed my vertical tank compressor up about three years ago. I can hear myself think now. Although it does have a small labyrinth air intake, I can take the front of the cabinet off if ever I was to use it with something like a paint sprayer, which is twice in the time I've had it. And, as for looks, your cabinet is a piece of fine furniture compared to mine.


----------



## Doug71

The good thing about lockdown is having time to finish off those jobs around the house which never got finished, I started this cabinet in the downstairs cloakroom before I had kids, my eldest son is now 11yrs old, where does time go 

The oak top is finished with external varnish, I have tried a few different oils and none have stood up to the water/soap splashed everywhere. The under counter bowl looks nice but is a totally impractical design.

The curved front if flexible MDF, not sure if it shows in the photo but you can see the ribs of the MDF in places, I always use ply for things like this these days.

Not fully finished yet as a bit of tiling needed, probably leave that for another 12 years.


----------



## samurai1966

here is my first project. i know it looks a bit rough but im over the moon with the overall finish.


----------



## grumpycorn

samurai1966 said:


> here is my first project. i know it looks a bit rough but im over the moon with the overall finish.



Looks good - How did you get that finish? That’s exactly what I’m after for my next project...


----------



## samurai1966

its just white gloss paint


----------



## grumpycorn

samurai1966 said:


> its just white gloss paint



Hahahah - I massively overthought that one then! Cheers


----------



## sed9888

My first go at making a box of any description, I made this for my wife, I have lined it with pig skin sued, and used craft resin for the lettering, oh and reclaimed oak inlays and top, its not perfect but it is for me


----------



## Robbo60

Good job. At first I thought you had put 2 screws through top but they are knots!


----------



## RichardG64

B3nder said:


> Not quite up to the caliber of other people on here.
> 
> The clamp on the right was the first one I made, using sycamore, the one on left using some random wood anyone have an idea what wood it is (I have no idea!)
> 
> View attachment 102580


I made a few Luthier clamps a while ago


----------



## plywood_king

Some big stairs - on wheels!


----------



## Tanglefoot20

Just a little look at the type of things I turn for Arnos vale cemetery in Bristol, making them some money by selling in there shop....PM for prices lol


----------



## Amateur

Set of oak kitchen stools. No pocket holes used. Cutting M&T was not as easy as you would thing with splayed out legs in two directions.
Completed these at Christmas.


----------



## Amateur

And from last year, Bella Bear.
A well known design with modifications to the arm rest for more stability.
Made a mock up from pine first to get dimensions correct and ensure enough beef and support in the back for the rocking action. You know what kids are like.


----------



## DBT85

Utility room cabinet. My first attempt at a cabinet. Or a door. Or edgebanding. Door and coulour made to match the kitchen units (supplied by DIY Kitchens 5 years ago).

Edge of drawers and door are a little close, but nothing I can't remedy.


----------



## Sachakins

Just turned my first carving mallet, English Oak, one piece, simple burnt ring decorations on handle and guide marks on head. Large grip to suit my gorilla hands.


----------



## Chris Hawkins

That is a stunning mallet - just amazing. It would look even better in my workshop


----------



## Sachakins

Thankyou for your appreciation ☺


----------



## danish

plywood_king said:


> Some big stairs - on wheels!



Looks great - ply is awesome


----------



## BHwoodworking

i made a stool to replace another stool!

iroko and padauk,

legs splayed both ways at 5 degries





and the burls are mallbe/gum burls that are at duffield timber, brilliant place.


----------



## Dandan

I made us a new bed, which probably should have had a thread but sometimes don't you just want to get on with it instead of taking photos?













Made from oak, oak veneered ply and some hardwood ply for the hidden bits.
Yes, there are a couple of spots of rot on the headboard, but the oak was all free, so i'm calling it character.


----------



## Dominik Pierog

Tumbler


----------



## foxbat

I like the tumbler, what are you going to tumble?


----------



## Droogs

I thought it was going to be raffle tickets but it is not. Dominik has a rather clever way of painting lots and lots of small wooden parts. check out his lathe restoration thread


----------



## DennisCA

Wooden hand clamp, also made all the steel parts. A bit of an experiment, I might change how it works yet. What I would really like is to get my hands on left hand M10 or M12 thread cheaply. It's not as intuitive to use with right hand thread only.


----------



## D_W

More chisels, The first deliberate set this time, with proptions relatively similar. Still made freehand and by eye. All will be handled soon.


----------



## D_W

Someone on another forum asked how long to make these chisels - it took me a little while to iron out a freehand process (no interest in making them look machine made or commercially finished - they're actually much more crisp at the edges hand filed).

about 2 hours per chisel from an old file to all of the dealing with the file to get blanks, hammering, grinding, filing, adding/grinding/filing the bolster and heat treating and then making a handle.

The kind of like a more interesting version of turning pens - you can go to the shop for a short period and get quite a lot done on one chisel - but the amount of metal dust if using a belt grinder is alarming. Laundry sink where the washer drains will look like the bottom of an oil pan with metal shavings, sans oil.

But, nonetheless, a full set of these only takes the same amount of time or less than it takes me to make a single plane. This set is left bonkers hard (on purpose) and they take a blinding edge and don't hold much of a wire edge on any stone aside from a very coarse one - so no challenge for anyone to sharpen, and no strange alloys (like excess vanadium, etc, or gobs of chromium, that's made its way into modern steels for stability for the maker or long wearing properties on cutting tools - chisels don't wear that way and a favorable combination of toughness and strength at high hardness is more important.

Add one hour per chisel to make them entirely by hand with no power tools at all, but doing such a thing leads to alarming consumption of files (though if bought right, they could be cannibalized for the next chisel sets). 

The trick is getting old files where the alloy was seemingly higher in carbon and the flat large files were (lots) thicker than they are now. Making them entirely by hand leads to little pigtails of metal and much less dust, but also leads to little metal splinters in big numbers.


----------



## D_W

Also, fitting to post chisels that I consider English pattern on an English site. There are relatively few English pattern chisels that were made in the states here with proportions like these - they are my favorite at the bench by far. Almost equal to better japanese chisels in edge holding but much better for western work where we do more than just chop with them.


----------



## Chunkytfg

I've found a slightly different use for Retractable workshop castors. 

Turbo trainer rocker plates on wheels!


----------



## TRITON

Finished mantle....

Well, I say finished, but i've to take it apart again, to reinforce everything not visible with glue and screws. I dont want bits falling off 50 years down the line.
P


lus I've still to adjust the columns so they stand upright as true and plumb as possible, and maybe redo the end caps on those that I'm not fully liking

But apart from that....


----------



## D_W

Finished turning and fitting handles.


----------



## Farm Labourer

AJB Temple had a post recently about his wife getting him to make things for her friends...... he's not the only one - "Darling, my friend wants a letter rack for her hubby. I said you could easily do one for his birthday, the day after tomorrow............" Made this last week in the freezing cold and gave myself the challenge of finishing it within an hour and a quarter including the sanding-sealer and two coats of wax. Made from offcuts of European oak and through the thickesser to 12.7mm and 9 for the central divider. All joints done on router table or hand-held router. I'm hoping that the recipient's name doesn't have these initials and that this is where he stores his vouchers for services to be administered!


----------



## Lons

Having made a brass marking gauge, wheel type I had a go at a router plane and suitably encouraged I tried something else new to me.
#I lusted after a Stanley no12 cabinet scraper but they seem to be a bit scarce or expensive so decided to try to roughly copy it in steel. Used 3mm plate as that's what I had and a couple of 6mm bits for the blade support and cap iron, Alloy bar turned for the knobs and blade from an old circular saw blade is 1.7mm thick, I turned a burr on that and it works but will have a go at heat treating it in due course.
I made a number of mistakes but it's solid and heavy at 1.5kg and most important it makes shavings.


----------



## robgul

At the opposite end of the spectrum -today we launched the neighbourhood Tiki Bar I made - ready for alfresco drinks as and when permitted - it's shared by about 10 houses in our road.

It's made from an old bedframe, pallets, a couple of wheels I've had for about 30 years . . . the most sophisticated bit of woodworking is some pocket hole joints to hold the frame together - but hey, it's functional and fun. The name is derived from being in the lower part of the road that includes "Mary" in its name


----------



## thick_mike

Born of necessity; a knock down desk for teaching from home. Priority was quick, functional, can be stored away with minimal effort and using what I had knocking around (hence the desktop made from two IKEA chopping boards). Assembled with dominos, screws and glue. It’s lasted 5 weeks and looks like I only need it to last another three before I’m back in school.

It’s quite useful though and I might be tempted to tart it up and make a proper top for it.


----------



## Robbo60

Farm Labourer said:


> AJB Temple had a post recently about his wife getting him to make things for her friends...... he's not the only one - "Darling, my friend wants a letter rack for her hubby. I said you could easily do one for his birthday, the day after tomorrow............" Made this last week in the freezing cold and gave myself the challenge of finishing it within an hour and a quarter including the sanding-sealer and two coats of wax. Made from offcuts of European oak and through the thickesser to 12.7mm and 9 for the central divider. All joints done on router table or hand-held router. I'm hoping that the recipient's name doesn't have these initials and that this is where he stores his vouchers for services to be administered!


A friend on my wife's was getting married last May and I said I would make a cheeseboard/wine bottle?wine glass holder. A bit like this, as I had already made one. I had a few months. Wedding got cancelled because of Covid - Phew, not done. It is now August this year. I'd better get started


----------



## Robbo60

thick_mike said:


> Born of necessity; a knock down desk for teaching from home. Priority was quick, functional, can be stored away with minimal effort and using what I had knocking around (hence the desktop made from two IKEA chopping boards). Assembled with dominos, screws and glue. It’s lasted 5 weeks and looks like I only need it to last another three before I’m back in school.
> 
> It’s quite useful though and I might be tempted to tart it up and make a proper top for it.


Mother of invention


----------



## NickDReed

As with most things in my garage, and particularly with the table saw I own there is a great deal of DIY to get things working as I like.

Yesterday I got my crown guard installed and working. Quite happy with it, but as ever I always think there is room for improvement. 

Inspiration taken from Attila's Workshop on YouTube.


----------



## kinverkid

I made this for my nephew. He has converted a shed into a bar. The frame is segmented and turned. I can't identify the wood. It's pinkish, fine grained, planes and turns really easily and it's repurposed from the same nephews garden table. Any ideas?


----------



## Chippysu

My upholsterer friend asked me to make these beech bed stools for his customer, and after he's worked his magic in situ. He said Beech takes stain well. Which is good to know!


----------



## Woodmatt

Modern veneered box


----------



## NickVanBeest

Woodmatt said:


> Modern veneered boxView attachment 103624


Bit of a small pic... have a bigger version?


----------



## Woodmatt

NickVanBeest said:


> Bit of a small pic... have a bigger version?


Thanks,image size changed


----------



## Woodmatt

Stationary box


----------



## Dr Al

My other half has just got back into knitting and wanted a Cedar of Lebanon lined box to store some woollen hand warmers to help protect them from carpet moths.

This is only my second attempt at a box (it's much bigger than the last one too) and a few things didn't go according to plan, but overall I'm quite pleased.






I meant to stick a ruler on the bench for scale before taking the photo, but I forgot. Dimensions are about 315 × 196 × 110 mm.

Sides are American Black Walnut, lid and splines are maple, inset thingy is (I think) greenheart.

*


*

I was very careful to be sure all the saw/chisel cut outs for the splines were deep enough that the splines would sit flush with the rims, but some of them ended up with gaps to the side. I think it was all the ones that I put in first - they probably slipped while I was putting the others in and I didn't go back and check they were firmly pressed into place. I haven't decided whether I'm going to do anything about it yet - I thought I'd apply some finish for now and mull on it (two coats so far).

I wasn't sure whether I'd like the look of the cedar lining, but it's really grown on me since the finish is applied.






I'm also rather pleased that I got the grain of the side lining pieces to match on all four corners:











Carolyn approves as well, and that's obviously the most important thing!


----------



## Chippysu

Dr Al said:


> My other half has just got back into knitting and wanted a Cedar of Lebanon lined box to store some woollen hand warmers to help protect them from carpet moths.
> 
> This is only my second attempt at a box (it's much bigger than the last one too) and a few things didn't go according to plan, but overall I'm quite pleased.
> 
> View attachment 103703
> 
> 
> I meant to stick a ruler on the bench for scale before taking the photo, but I forgot. Dimensions are about 315 × 196 × 110 mm.
> 
> Sides are American Black Walnut, lid and splines are maple, inset thingy is (I think) greenheart.
> 
> *View attachment 103704
> *
> 
> I was very careful to be sure all the saw/chisel cut outs for the splines were deep enough that the splines would sit flush with the rims, but some of them ended up with gaps to the side. I think it was all the ones that I put in first - they probably slipped while I was putting the others in and I didn't go back and check they were firmly pressed into place. I haven't decided whether I'm going to do anything about it yet - I thought I'd apply some finish for now and mull on it (two coats so far).
> 
> I wasn't sure whether I'd like the look of the cedar lining, but it's really grown on me since the finish is applied.
> 
> View attachment 103705
> 
> 
> I'm also rather pleased that I got the grain of the side lining pieces to match on all four corners:
> 
> View attachment 103706
> 
> 
> View attachment 103707
> 
> 
> Carolyn approves as well, and that's obviously the most important thing!


Absolutely love this, I'm in the process of designing a jewellery box our my daughter. I be just bought a piece of Ovangkol & am between splined corners or doves. Seeing your contrast splines now I think they'll show off the timber & doves probably won't show up so much. So thanks for these pictures.


----------



## Rorton

Really nice, and the attention to detail on the grain inside is brilliant!

how did you do the inlay in the lid, only inlay ive done is on picture frames, where I cut a slot in each piece of the frame, then glue in contrasting wood and plane flat. 

Have you had to chisel all that out?

Did you make the whole box 'as one' and then cut off the lid? And grooves for the top and bottom panels floating in?


----------



## thetyreman

relieved to find out that this guitar amp works! just testing it out and this thing is loud as hell, it has been a fun little project, more updates on it soon when its finished.



Look in to the cone! the blueberry amp test by Ben Tyreman, on Flickr


----------



## Dr Al

Rorton said:


> Really nice, and the attention to detail on the grain inside is brilliant!
> 
> how did you do the inlay in the lid, only inlay ive done is on picture frames, where I cut a slot in each piece of the frame, then glue in contrasting wood and plane flat.
> 
> Have you had to chisel all that out?



No, I cheated on that bit. I couldn't think of a way of doing it neatly with hand tools so I resorted to a router for that. I had no spare maple, so I really didn't want to mess it up by slipping with a chisel! I used a 10 mm end mill (as I didn't have an appropriate sized router bit) in the router table and cut a groove about 1.5 mm deep (the maple is 4 mm thick). I finished the corners off with a chisel, glued the strips of greenheart in (which were about 2 mm thick offcuts from another project) and then sanded flat.



Rorton said:


> Did you make the whole box 'as one' and then cut off the lid? And grooves for the top and bottom panels floating in?



Yes. The grooves were cut with some home-made grooving planes; the lid was cut off by double-sided taping a dozuki saw to a block of wood and rubbing the block of wood back and forth against the worktop with the saw teeth cutting into the box - that kept the saw at a consistent height. I cut the splines after separating the lid as I wanted the lid spline to be exactly in the middle of the lid and the base splines to be evenly spaced in the base.


----------



## Tenacity

Dr Al said:


> My other half has just got back into knitting and wanted a Cedar of Lebanon lined box to store some woollen hand warmers to help protect them from carpet moths.
> 
> This is only my second attempt at a box (it's much bigger than the last one too) and a few things didn't go according to plan, but overall I'm quite pleased.
> 
> View attachment 103703
> 
> 
> I meant to stick a ruler on the bench for scale before taking the photo, but I forgot. Dimensions are about 315 × 196 × 110 mm.
> 
> Sides are American Black Walnut, lid and splines are maple, inset thingy is (I think) greenheart.
> 
> *View attachment 103704
> *
> 
> I was very careful to be sure all the saw/chisel cut outs for the splines were deep enough that the splines would sit flush with the rims, but some of them ended up with gaps to the side. I think it was all the ones that I put in first - they probably slipped while I was putting the others in and I didn't go back and check they were firmly pressed into place. I haven't decided whether I'm going to do anything about it yet - I thought I'd apply some finish for now and mull on it (two coats so far).
> 
> I wasn't sure whether I'd like the look of the cedar lining, but it's really grown on me since the finish is applied.
> 
> View attachment 103705
> 
> 
> I'm also rather pleased that I got the grain of the side lining pieces to match on all four corners:
> 
> View attachment 103706
> 
> 
> View attachment 103707
> 
> 
> Carolyn approves as well, and that's obviously the most important thing!


It's a shame to cover that grain ;-)


----------



## Robbo60

That look awesome. Nothing I make ever really looks pretty. It's always functional and does the job I want but never good enough to put on display. Did you build this from a plan or make up as you went along?


----------



## Dr Al

Robbo60 said:


> That look awesome. Nothing I make ever really looks pretty. It's always functional and does the job I want but never good enough to put on display. Did you build this from a plan or make up as you went along?



If that question is about my box, then I made it up as I went along. Dimensions for the box were dictated by the length of the piece of walnut I had left and the width of the piece of maple I had left (combined with a desire to get it to be a suitable size for storing hand warmers). I had a length of circa 20 mm thick walnut that was about 520 mm long and just over 110 mm wide, so I split it in half (to 9 mm thick) to make the sides, then cut each bit off in a 1.61-ish ratio. I then cut the mitres on the shooting board and tweaked the length of the shorter sides until they were short enough for the width of the maple plank (which I'd previously split and glued back together to make a wide piece).

I cut the lid off at a thickness that looked sensible (and ensured there was no risk of a mid-spline cutting into the groove for the maple lid). I then spaced the top and bottom splines on the base so that they were the same distance from the edge as the lid spline was (that made it easy as I could use the same block of wood taped to my saw). I then put the other spline in the middle. The greenheart width (10 mm) was chosen as I'd trimmed some 10 mm thick greenheart down and it had produced a 2 mm thick offcut, which I'd saved. The space from the edge was just a guess of what I thought might look good.

If that question was about the guitar amp that was posted after my box, then you'll have to ask @thetyreman!


----------



## Woodmatt

Dr Al said:


> My other half has just got back into knitting and wanted a Cedar of Lebanon lined box to store some woollen hand warmers to help protect them from carpet moths.
> 
> This is only my second attempt at a box (it's much bigger than the last one too) and a few things didn't go according to plan, but overall I'm quite pleased.
> 
> View attachment 103703
> 
> 
> I meant to stick a ruler on the bench for scale before taking the photo, but I forgot. Dimensions are about 315 × 196 × 110 mm.
> 
> Sides are American Black Walnut, lid and splines are maple, inset thingy is (I think) greenheart.
> 
> *View attachment 103704
> *
> 
> I was very careful to be sure all the saw/chisel cut outs for the splines were deep enough that the splines would sit flush with the rims, but some of them ended up with gaps to the side. I think it was all the ones that I put in first - they probably slipped while I was putting the others in and I didn't go back and check they were firmly pressed into place. I haven't decided whether I'm going to do anything about it yet - I thought I'd apply some finish for now and mull on it (two coats so far).
> 
> I wasn't sure whether I'd like the look of the cedar lining, but it's really grown on me since the finish is applied.
> 
> View attachment 103705
> 
> 
> I'm also rather pleased that I got the grain of the side lining pieces to match on all four corners:
> 
> View attachment 103706
> 
> 
> View attachment 103707
> 
> 
> Carolyn approves as well, and that's obviously the most important thing!


----------



## Woodmatt

Lovely work Dr Al,I imagine your wife is really pleased


----------



## RichT

Last bit of turning


----------



## Essex Barn Workshop

My son is a professional drummer, so I took two of his old, cracked, cymbals and for this one made a lamp holder to go behind it. Was really glad to find a brass dome nut to attach it to the cymbal. This is in my workshop.





and on his wall








With another cymbal I simply fitted a clock movement behind it to make a wall clock.






and finally, I made some simple brackets with angled upwards coach bolts protruding. I used a rubberising dip on the end of the bolts to prevent damage to the cymbals.





No clever wood craft here, but very satisfying.


----------



## Simon89

Essex Barn Workshop said:


> My son is a professional drummer, so I took two of his old, cracked, cymbals and for this one made a lamp holder to go behind it. Was really glad to find a brass dome nut to attach it to the cymbal. This is in my workshop.
> 
> View attachment 103871
> 
> and on his wall
> 
> View attachment 103879
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With another cymbal I simply fitted a clock movement behind it to make a wall clock.
> 
> View attachment 103873
> 
> 
> and finally, I made some simple brackets with angled upwards coach bolts protruding. I used a rubberising dip on the end of the bolts to prevent damage to the cymbals.
> 
> View attachment 103875
> 
> No clever wood craft here, but very satisfying.


What rubber dip did you use?


----------



## Essex Barn Workshop

Simon89 said:


> What rubber dip did you use?


This one, and I highly recommend it. Two coats and you couldn't see any of the threads on a coach bolt.


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0114Z42F8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## NickDReed

The kids are staying over for half term. Trying to get them interested in something I find interesting.

First thing made yesterday. Nothing exciting but one out of 2 seemed to enjoy the process.


----------



## Dr Al

My other half ordered some wool for a crochet pattern but then realised she didn't have a hook of the right size. I thought I'd have a go...






It's made out of an offcut of American black walnut. The outer diameter was made with a dowel plate; I then put it in the metal lathe and turned the inner diameter. The rest of the shaping was done with files.

I also made a simple push block for the table saw out of a bit of dowel and some offcuts of plywood:






This is how it'll be used:






At the moment it's held together with brad nails, but after a few tests, I'll probably take it apart and glue (and maybe dowel) it instead, just in case I'm stupid enough to try to use it with the blade all the way up and cutting slightly into the push block!


----------



## NickDReed

Dr Al said:


> My other half ordered some wool for a crochet pattern but then realised she didn't have a hook of the right size. I thought I'd have a go...
> 
> View attachment 104014
> 
> 
> It's made out of an offcut of American black walnut. The outer diameter was made with a dowel plate; I then put it in the metal lathe and turned the inner diameter. The rest of the shaping was done with files.
> 
> I also made a simple push block for the table saw out of a bit of dowel and some offcuts of plywood:
> 
> Thank you for posting this!!
> 
> You have just solved something for me!
> 
> View attachment 104015
> 
> 
> This is how it'll be used:
> 
> View attachment 104016
> 
> 
> At the moment it's held together with brad nails, but after a few tests, I'll probably take it apart and glue (and maybe dowel) it instead, just in case I'm stupid enough to try to use it with the blade all the way up and cutting slightly into the push block!


----------



## danish

As mentioned in my last project-post I was planning to build a daybed. Ideally something really simple out of oak. I liked the graphite oil look on oak that I used on the project linked above and looked around for inspiration.
Couldn't really find something that worked 100%, but did like the look of this daybed by Børge Mogensen - in particular the legs and the way the bed kinda floated carried by the round oak pieces.

Anyway here is my finished daybed





and without cushions.






I build the frame of solid 5cm thick oak and routed out for the space for the thingies to hold the mattress (pallets? what are they called, sometimes my Danglish fails me ). With a template the routing was fairly easy.






The legs I made of 2.5cm thick oak timber and I tried my luck with finger joints, a first for me and it was much much harder than I thought it would be.






And I learned the hard way why it's called finger joints....






After a bit of sandpaper (and glue) they turned out fine though.






I Ebay'ed this round oak dowel





And cut out the spacers, applied the graphite oil and put the whole thing together...











The futon mattress is from Ebay as well. I would have loved to buy/make a leather one like the Børge Mogensen version linked above but it would have been way too expensive/hard 

Next are some oak shelving. I need to find a good place to buy oak though, for the daybed I used ajferguson.co.uk and it was ok, but ended up fairly costly... I need to find a good sawmill to source oak from.


----------



## boxerbean

Do sheds count?


----------



## Roland

Using up some spare wood


----------



## Sachakins

First try using spirit stains from Chestnut Rainbow tester pack. 











Wood was two 4"x2 1/2" x 8" pieces of Tulip Wood (Poplar?), edge glued, finished bowl 7" diameter x 2" thick.


----------



## TomB

A sharpening station made to sit over the kitchen sink.
It’s knocked together with some reclaimed oak and some beech dowels. Rotating the little wheel cams the stone into position and stops it wobbling about, the kitchen taps swings over to add some water. Works quite well. 
I might make a few for family Christmas presents.


----------



## Dr Al

Just some simple blocks for hand-sanding. I've got one I bought many years ago, but it's impossible to get the sandpaper under enough tension.

I saw this design on a video sometime a long, long time ago and making some has been on my list for ages. I was casting around for something to do and put my hands on a few blocks of plastic that came out of a skip a while ago, so I thought I'd just get on with it. Bars are 10 mm mild steel; o-ring grooves are 4 mm and the o-rings are a random size out of the selection pack that seemed to fit. All the blocks are a slightly different size to one another as each is the biggest I could get out of the chunks of plastic I had. From how easily it machined, I think it's probably acetal.

The two that aren't assembled in the picture aren't quite finished yet: I need to make the steel bars (basically cut them to length and stick a groove in them for the o-ring) and file the corners of the o-ring slots so the o-rings aren't going over any sharp corners.


----------



## PaulArthur

Right then. 

Needed a way to tidy up the front porch and have somewhere to sit and put on boots. One sheet of birch ply, lots of nails, glue snd a chunk of English oak, and a healthy dose of advice from @danish a few clear days away from homeschooling.


----------



## mikej460

danish said:


> As mentioned in my last project-post I was planning to build a daybed. Ideally something really simple out of oak. I liked the graphite oil look on oak that I used on the project linked above and looked around for inspiration.
> Couldn't really find something that worked 100%, but did like the look of this daybed by Børge Mogensen - in particular the legs and the way the bed kinda floated carried by the round oak pieces.
> 
> Anyway here is my finished daybed
> View attachment 104038
> 
> 
> and without cushions.
> 
> View attachment 104156
> 
> 
> I build the frame of solid 5cm thick oak and routed out for the space for the thingies to hold the mattress (pallets? what are they called, sometimes my Danglish fails me ). With a template the routing was fairly easy.
> 
> View attachment 104049
> 
> 
> The legs I made of 2.5cm thick oak timber and I tried my luck with finger joints, a first for me and it was much much harder than I thought it would be.
> 
> View attachment 104043
> 
> 
> And I learned the hard way why it's called finger joints....
> 
> View attachment 104040
> 
> 
> After a bit of sandpaper (and glue) they turned out fine though.
> 
> View attachment 104044
> 
> 
> I Ebay'ed this round oak dowel
> View attachment 104045
> 
> 
> And cut out the spacers, applied the graphite oil and put the whole thing together...
> 
> View attachment 104046
> 
> 
> View attachment 104047
> 
> 
> The futon mattress is from Ebay as well. I would have loved to buy/make a leather one like the Børge Mogensen version linked above but it would have been way too expensive/hard
> 
> Next are some oak shelving. I need to find a good place to buy oak though, for the daybed I used ajferguson.co.uk and it was ok, but ended up fairly costly... I need to find a good sawmill to source oak from.


It occurred to me that, and this is completely off the wall, you could try and find an old leather sofa and string the cushions together to create the futon? You could use a coloured string knotted at each end for a modern effect.

just a thought, frame looks good


----------



## Gant

A pair of owl boxes I’ve been asked to make. 


The design was adapted from the RSPB website plans which made very inefficient use of 8’ x4’ plywood boards, so I tweaked them. It’s more joinery than woodworking, though as a newcomer to the art I learned quite a bit about sawing straight, reference faces and accurate measurements.


----------



## danish

mikej460 said:


> It occurred to me that, and this is completely off the wall, you could try and find an old leather sofa and string the cushions together to create the futon? You could use a coloured string knotted at each end for a modern effect.
> 
> just a thought, frame looks good


Thanks Mike!
I had doubts about what to do with the mattress so I actually ended up buying it first and then building the frame/base after to make sure that the fit was perfect. It's 189x75 and it may be hard to find an old sofa with cushions at those measurements. I will try hard though, it's a good idea! 

Thanks again


----------



## Robbo60

Gant said:


> A pair of owl boxes I’ve been asked to make. View attachment 104243
> The design was adapted from the RSPB website plans which made very inefficient use of 8’ x4’ plywood boards, so I tweaked them. It’s more joinery than woodworking, though as a newcomer to the art I learned quite a bit about sawing straight, reference faces and accurate measurements.


Where do the boxes get situated?


----------



## Avery

DTR said:


> This is a bit of an experiment. Most forums I've been on have had a "Post pics of [something topical]" thread, but not this one. There's probably a good reason for that, but I'm going to stick my neck out anyway.
> 
> The idea is, quite simply, to post a photo of the last thing you made. It can be something quite insignificant, a component of something bigger, or a completed project. It can be something that's not thread-worthy on its own, or it can be something that already has a 9 page WIP thread in the Projects section, it really doesn't matter! It's just a bit of fun, but hopefully it will generate some discussion too.
> 
> So here's my offering to get the ball rolling. I could have posted a photo of a mug of tea, but that's hardly relevant. This is a replacement guide knob for SWMBO's Burgess bandsaw. Formally it was in the care of her Dad, who isn't the most mechanically minded, hence why it needed a bit of a spruce up before going back into service!


----------



## Gant

Robbo60 said:


> Where do the boxes get situated?


I’m in Wharfedale, there’s a large house with woodland where we’re placing them. It’s actually a bit late for this year, the territories are probably already set up.


----------



## thetyreman

lil guitar amp I made, it's also in the projects section for more detail:


----------



## kinverkid

Another birdhouse. This one is for the bottom of the garden. We tend to get Bluetits in two of the other houses by now but so far we've only had visitors but no nesting going on. Maybe a little late for this new house too. The main body is redwood, scorched with a blow-torch. The roof, facia and branches are teak.


----------



## Rorton

My last crosscut sled became a victim of the winter cold in the garage and covered in mould, Birch ply seems to suffer this when not well sealed.

Anyway, gave me an excuse to make a new one using stuff I liked from the old, and other stuff I thought about adding.

Made from 12mm Birch ply this time to reduce weight a bit, front and rear fences just glued lengths of the 12mm Birch to form thicker pieces, while clamped to a straight edge to ensure flatness.

I used UHMWPE plastic to make the runners, as last sled suffered from the hardwood runners swelling.

Incra track carried over from the last sled, and added new 'go faster' walnut modifications! A stop block, and a 'memory stop' (what I call it anyway - gives me the ability to register where the stop block is and remove it to make a different cut then put it back in the same place) Plus a lump at the back to act as a blade guard.

I like the off centre sled, I dont have a need to have the same support on both sides of the blade, and it allows me to keep the size down, the sled is 600x600mm, and made from a 1200 x 600 sheet of birch ply.









What I did like about the other sled was my in built extendable stop, with this, I can consistently cut around 700mm with the in built pull out stop extension, then made a bigger one to slot in should I need to go even bigger - the walnut end flips down to form the stop block





Slide in extra long stop block if needed











Finally, I made extra use of the incra track, and made a slot in finger joint jig which works well












Seems to work well at the moment, I gave it a good few coats of varnish, so hopefully won't suffer the mould like the last one!


----------



## Essex Barn Workshop

A shaker door shelving unit for porch storage. The 15mm gap to the right was needed to get the unit in past the windowsill.


----------



## Jacob

Made a dozen of these for a client, some time ago, but it's the last thing I sold (ebay yesterday).
I made a baker's dozen and kept one. It's a "saddlers' clam".
Beech. 44 inches long, 2 3/4” at the mouth, 2“ at the foot.


----------



## D_W

A few more chisels with chakte viga handles. Recycled files for the steel. 









And then an attempt to finish one brightly with 1095 bar stock.


----------



## dzj

I made a pedestal desk with a hutch. Common Walnut. Jugendstil/ Liberty...
Or as the Germans would say an _aufsatzschreibtisch._
It is a copy of a 1900 piece, which the client found here:








Antique Art Nouveau Desk, English, Victorian,


This is an antique, Art Nouveau desk, an English, Victorian, walnut cabinet, Liberty-esque in styling and dating to circa 1900.




www.antiques-atlas.com






...........................


Have quite a few photos of the build, if anyone is still interested in this kind of stuff, I could start a thread
in the projects section. (When time allows)


----------



## Rorton

Yes please to more pictures !


----------



## Pete the Feet

Essex Barn Workshop said:


> My son is a professional drummer, so I took two of his old, cracked, cymbals and for this one made a lamp holder to go behind it. Was really glad to find a brass dome nut to attach it to the cymbal. This is in my workshop.
> 
> View attachment 103871
> 
> and on his wall
> 
> View attachment 103879
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With another cymbal I simply fitted a clock movement behind it to make a wall clock.
> 
> View attachment 103873
> 
> 
> and finally, I made some simple brackets with angled upwards coach bolts protruding. I used a rubberising dip on the end of the bolts to prevent damage to the cymbals.
> 
> View attachment 103875
> 
> No clever wood craft here, but very satisfying.


I love this idea. My son drums too and it would be nice to do something with his "leftovers!"


----------



## kevinlightfoot

Rorton said:


> My last crosscut sled became a victim of the winter cold in the garage and covered in mould, Birch ply seems to suffer this when not well sealed.
> 
> Anyway, gave me an excuse to make a new one using stuff I liked from the old, and other stuff I thought about adding.
> 
> Made from 12mm Birch ply this time to reduce weight a bit, front and rear fences just glued lengths of the 12mm Birch to form thicker pieces, while clamped to a straight edge to ensure flatness.
> 
> I used UHMWPE plastic to make the runners, as last sled suffered from the hardwood runners swelling.
> 
> Incra track carried over from the last sled, and added new 'go faster' walnut modifications! A stop block, and a 'memory stop' (what I call it anyway - gives me the ability to register where the stop block is and remove it to make a different cut then put it back in the same place) Plus a lump at the back to act as a blade guard.
> 
> I like the off centre sled, I dont have a need to have the same support on both sides of the blade, and it allows me to keep the size down, the sled is 600x600mm, and made from a 1200 x 600 sheet of birch ply.
> 
> View attachment 104625
> 
> View attachment 104626
> 
> What I did like about the other sled was my in built extendable stop, with this, I can consistently cut around 700mm with the in built pull out stop extension, then made a bigger one to slot in should I need to go even bigger - the walnut end flips down to form the stop block
> 
> View attachment 104627
> 
> Slide in extra long stop block if needed
> 
> View attachment 104628
> 
> 
> View attachment 104629
> 
> 
> Finally, I made extra use of the incra track, and made a slot in finger joint jig which works well
> 
> View attachment 104630
> 
> 
> View attachment 104631
> 
> 
> 
> Seems to work well at the moment, I gave it a good few coats of varnish, so hopefully won't suffer the mould like the last one!


Really like this ,excellent job.


----------



## Dr Al

Spent most of the day today shovelling 5½ tons of type 1 aggregate over the access road that goes up the side of the house to the garages. I think I'm going to hurt tomorrow.

Once that was done I had a bit of time to do another practice dovetail, this time using my recently acquired Dozuki, which seems worlds better than my previous one. I hadn't been planning to replace the old saw, but it was my first Japanese saw and I'd managed (through incompetence) to damage some of the teeth and then struggled to get a replacement blade, so I replaced the whole saw with one with more readily available blades. I can't quite believe how much easier it is to produce clean, straight cuts with the new saw.

Still some little gaps here and there, but this is by far the best dovetail I've cut so far. The wood was a bit shabby before I started (and there's a big bit of sapwood in the tail board), but it was only for practice.


----------



## bp122

After a long think about the design of this project, I landed on a simple design that the client (The wife) liked the look of.








Nothing to rival the likes of others on here, but this one is for my wee man's room.


----------



## Sachakins

Been having a play with my new airbrush and chestnut spirit stains rainbow sample kit.
This is my first airbrushing attempt.
Bowl is two bits of 9 x 1 1/4" rough sawn oak, planed and face glued (badly) to give 8 x 2 1/2" bowl, yellow, orange, red and deep blue stains, Hampshire Sheen high gloss finish to inside. I christened it the Sunrise Bowl


----------



## thetyreman

nice finish, that would look good on a guitar body as a sunburst.


----------



## Sachakins

thetyreman said:


> nice finish, that would look good on a guitar body as a sunburst.


Thnx, will be trying more i hope, just glued up more blanks today for a play with other colours.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Hop up/trestle/bench

Hop up for my loved one, and a trestle come workbench for me. Deliberately low for working from a wheel chair. I can clamp stuff across the step if I'm sat on the floor. All made from a neighbour's donated firewood.


----------



## Cooper

Dinosaur Jack in the boxes, this year's wooden Easter eggs. Pear wood eggs about 12 cm pole to pole dinosaurs from Douglas fir from old tent poles.


----------



## NickDReed

Recently had my table saw to bits and is now back together. In preparation for making up a series of drawers for the builtin wardrobe I'm making I wanted to make sure the saw was set up accurately (enough) so decided to make a small project at the weekend.






My brother dumped a load of this round mine a while back so decided to utilise it rather than burn it. 









Simple and quick afternoon project. Discovered a few issues with the saw set up and the box stores my dowel jig nicely. All in all a successful Sunday.


----------



## Cordy

Using up some old cheap plywood, these started off as planters
Then added wheels and stick-on vinyl;


----------



## thetyreman

made a bird box using scraps of pine, painted with green outdoor paint, very easy project, used the RSPB plans, did some fancy rounding off on the roof, just to make it look a bit nicer and shaped the top and bottom, it's surprisingly heavy, secured to the wall with a wall plug, the lid is removable.


----------



## starlingwood

Here is a mobile base for a TH/PL that I made with oak which is based largely on a Peter Parfitt YouTube video. 

He dominoed the joints but I don't have one so dowelled and added some pocket holes too for a bit extra. 

Both wife and me stood on it so I hope  the 200kg of machine will be OK when it arrives soon.


----------



## Orraloon

Looks nice and neat but some practical advice. My bandsaw thats about 120kg has a base with hardwood rails going onto steel corners with castors. The front is jack up. I made the mistake of leaving the front jacked up for a couple of weeks and the wood developed sag. Had to pull it apart and rotate the wood and now make sure it sits on it's feet when not moving. In your case a wedge under each corner would be good insurance when the thing is not moving.
Regards
John


----------



## starlingwood

Orraloon said:


> Looks nice and neat but some practical advice. My bandsaw thats about 120kg has a base with hardwood rails going onto steel corners with castors. The front is jack up. I made the mistake of leaving the front jacked up for a couple of weeks and the wood developed sag. Had to pull it apart and rotate the wood and now make sure it sits on it's feet when not moving. In your case a wedge under each corner would be good insurance when the thing is not moving.
> Regards
> John



Hi John,
I know what you mean the base is only 18mm oak and 10mm clearance to the floor so I am worried about sag to the point where I cant trolley it about. My floor is smooth though. That board going across is the front and gives it a bit of extra rigidity and there will be another one at the back. I'm going to fix that with machine screws and screw inserts as I plan to fix it when the PL/TH is in situ, getting 176kg in over 28mm will be challenging enough with out adding another 70mm to clear. 

Do you have any ideas about how I will get the machine on the base? Is it safe for two persons lifting it up by the beds? Or maybe tip it back then tip it forward onto the base then walk it forward to the final position?


----------



## avengerwrc

An english ash display cabinet which I finished this morning.


----------



## avengerwrc

the top of the new cabinet


----------



## DBT85

Single loft bed for a friends eldest. Before you ask, I just put it where I was told . All just redwood pine. All made on site rather than in my workshop as the design was fluid. Routing the houings for the stairs was fun, as was working out how to space the stairs properly with my framing square, an experience made simpler if it was metric on both sides.


----------



## Orraloon

starlingwood said:


> Hi John,
> I know what you mean the base is only 18mm oak and 10mm clearance to the floor so I am worried about sag to the point where I cant trolley it about. My floor is smooth though. That board going across is the front and gives it a bit of extra rigidity and there will be another one at the back. I'm going to fix that with machine screws and screw inserts as I plan to fix it when the PL/TH is in situ, getting 176kg in over 28mm will be challenging enough with out adding another 70mm to clear.
> 
> Do you have any ideas about how I will get the machine on the base? Is it safe for two persons lifting it up by the beds? Or maybe tip it back then tip it forward onto the base then walk it forward to the final position?



Dont lift it by the planer tables. You may damage the gib bolts and the table adjustment. I did the tilt back then then shoogle it on to the base with both my bandsaw and table saw. You do need some help doing it. Get as many people as it takes.
Regards
John


----------



## Donald Sinclair

thetyreman said:


> made a bird box using scraps of pine, painted with green outdoor paint, very easy project, used the RSPB plans, did some fancy rounding off on the roof, just to make it look a bit nicer and shaped the top and bottom, it's surprisingly heavy, secured to the wall with a wall plug, the lid is removable.


Very pretty. When we clean out the old nest from a bird box in the autumn it is handy to be able to pull off the lower half of the front of the box.


----------



## Dominik Pierog

Pinewood painted dovel...


----------



## Terrytpot

Orraloon said:


> Don't lift it by the planer tables. You may damage the gib bolts and the table adjustment. I did the tilt back then then shoogle it on to the base with both my bandsaw and table saw. You do need some help doing it. Get as many people as it takes.
> Regards
> John


Used the same technique myself when wriggling/walking my P/T onto it's base although I foolishly did it on my own and almost had a scary moment..get help,even if it's just someone planting a foot on the base to stop it "running away when under duress"


----------



## gregmcateer

DBT85 said:


> Single loft bed for a friends eldest. Before you ask, I just put it where I was told . All just redwood pine. All made on site rather than in my workshop as the design was fluid. Routing the houings for the stairs was fun, as was working out how to space the stairs properly with my framing square, an experience made simpler if it was metric on both sides.



Nice bunk bed, DBT. Did they get you to put it there so they could reach to finish painting the wall?


----------



## DBT85

gregmcateer said:


> Nice bunk bed, DBT. Did they get you to put it there so they could reach to finish painting the wall?


Ha. They wanted to get a coat up but only had a few hours the day before as they only just moved in.


----------



## weekend_woodworker

Just put a new handle on a dovetail saw I bought on the forum. I then constructed some storage for the saws.


----------



## silentsam

weekend_woodworker said:


> View attachment 105332


Oh, that looks like a brilliant tool wall. Do you have any more photos of that? I'd love to see it, maybe on my tool wall thread.


----------



## rob1693

Built this for my 3 year old granddaughter, 90% of materials from a pine chest if drawers i rescued from a skip


----------



## rob1693

These didn't upload on 1st post


----------



## jimbo2076

A Japanese Kumiko wall art piece for mothers day (not quite finished yet)


----------



## kinverkid

I caved in and stopped gluing the totes on my 5 1/2 and 4 1/2 and decided to make new ones along with matching knobs. The 4 1/2 is ebony and the 5 1/2 is chestnut. I couldn't trust the 290 year old chestnut floor board to be strong enough as it was so I planed one face, cut out two squares, then glued the two faces together. I glued three pieces together for the knob. May seem like a lot of trouble for a tote and a knob but the original board was only around 600mm and is the only piece I've got so I thought a small project could be the only use for it.


----------



## Max Power

Jacob said:


> Made a dozen of these for a client, some time ago, but it's the last thing I sold (ebay yesterday).
> I made a baker's dozen and kept one. It's a "saddlers' clam".
> Beech. 44 inches long, 2 3/4” at the mouth, 2“ at the foot.
> 
> View attachment 104735
> View attachment 104736
> View attachment 104737
> View attachment 104738


That takes me back a bit, must be over 40 years since I handled one of those


----------



## Max Power

Jacob said:


> Made a dozen of these for a client, some time ago, but it's the last thing I sold (ebay yesterday).
> I made a baker's dozen and kept one. It's a "saddlers' clam".
> Beech. 44 inches long, 2 3/4” at the mouth, 2“ at the foot.
> 
> View attachment 104735
> View attachment 104736
> View attachment 104737
> View attachment 104738


That takes me back, must be forty years since I handled one of those


----------



## Thingybob

Before i retired use to make full size projects now i work in miniature no bad backs and i enjoy the challenge of making small joints


----------



## Robbo60

jimbo2076 said:


> A Japanese Kumiko wall art piece for mothers day (not quite finished yet)


That is blinking awesome. Have you got any progress pics so we can see how you did it. What wood? Just thinking of all the bits of scrap I have. Would soft woods work? Not sure I have the patience - or skill


----------



## Robbo60

Max Power said:


> That takes me back a bit, must be over 40 years since I handled one of those


OK someone has to ask what does the saddler clam?


----------



## Droogs

That is a wonderful little table @Thingybob


----------



## Jacob

Robbo60 said:


> OK someone has to ask what does the saddler clam?


It's a clamp for holding a bit of leather while you stitch it. Mine were just the bare bones - they get leather padding added between the jaws and a strap through the holes with a stirrup on one end to hold the jaws tight.
They come in lots of shapes and sizes. Couple of variations here;



Never used one myself I made them for a local leatherworker doing a teaching class.
There are lots of interesting craft-trade accessories made of wood - I've also made Shetland Jumper Boards and other odds and ends. A complicated version here, mine were simpler



Then there's a whole world of spinning and weaving bits and bobs which I'd like to have a go at


----------



## robgul

Robbo60 said:


> OK someone has to ask what does the saddler clam?


If you watch The Repair Shop from Weds 10 March you'll see Suzi with a leather watch strap in a clam as she was sewing it.


----------



## Jonzjob

Jacob, spinning? You could always try a Book Charka. It's an Indian spinning wheel. This is a 'rough up' that I did to see just how it works and it's a bit rough but it does work.



The wheel with the stainless wires plugged into it is to wind the wool from the bobbin into a skein. There's a fair amount of gen online including plans.

I have got in to all sorts in the sewing/knitting/crochet line by being asked "can I" and I have. I even joined a crochet forum to get some gen on the hooks and have mad dog knows how many now including some 4mm jobbies with brass hooks on them 











Brass turns nicely with a good sharp spindle gouge.

From there to extreme knitting was another request






Front to back. 25mm by 30cm black walnut with box wood buttons, 30mm by 30cm black walnut with beech buttons and 40mm by 50cm Accoya with beech buttons. It was good fun with a 1" oval skew getting the diameters right!


----------



## Chippysu

jimbo2076 said:


> A Japanese Kumiko wall art piece for mothers day (not quite finished yet)


Aahh glad you've put this up, (which looks brilliant btw.) I've been looking at a book on creating these but have so far stopped myself from getting yet another 'craft to try'  Is this as interesting as it looks or do you think it could quickly become a bit 'samey'? What wood species did you use?


----------



## Oraclebhoy

Made a boot Jack. As there are still only three types of wood that I know of “softwood,hardwood, dark hardwood” it is made of hardwood and dark hardwood,
The light wood was purchased online. The dark wood was rescued from a garden fire, we had a rotten table that was getting smashed up. Most of the legs were in good condition once you cut away the bottom few inches.
This was my first attempt at glueing (didn’t have enough clamps, bought 12 more F clamps since then)
This was my first attempt with a plane (still learning to sharpen and set my bench plane, the SB3 plane is $#%¥@& , couldn’t stop it from ripping two parallel groves on the edges)
This was my first attempt cutting a curve with a bandsaw (used the wrong blade)
This was my first attempt with diluted varnish, wasn’t too bad.


----------



## hulsey75

This used to be an old pebble dash concrete panel garage and was an eyesore but very happy with the end result on this


----------



## Cabinetman

Very nice hulsey, and welcome from just up the road. Ian


----------



## kinverkid

Oraclebhoy said:


> The dark wood was rescued from a garden fire, we had a rotten table that was getting smashed up. Most of the legs were in good condition once you cut away the bottom few inches.


The 'beer label' clock I made (a few pages back on this post) has a segmented frame which looks like the same dark hard wood. It is also rescued garden furniture wood. I can't identify it either.


----------



## pulleyt

Chippysu said:


> Aahh glad you've put this up, (which looks brilliant btw.) I've been looking at a book on creating these but have so far stopped myself from getting yet another 'craft to try'  Is this as interesting as it looks or do you think it could quickly become a bit 'samey'? What wood species did you use?



Hi. My name is Trevor and I am a Kumiko addict. Since I discovered my first YouTube video on Kumiko early on during lockdown, it has taken over my waking hours. 

Ok, I exaggerate considerably but I have got a lot of enjoyment from several kumiko inspired projects over the last 10 months. I don't find it too samey - certainly no more than a lot of woodworking processes might appear to be samey. What I would same is that it is time consuming but the satisfaction of the final result, for me, is ample reward. Almost equal tot he satisfaction of the finished object is the creation of successful jigs to aid preparation and completion of the projects. 

I have used both lime and maple for the kumiko strips as well odd bits of interesting hardwood scraps for occasional accents. The lime is very nice to use with hand tools and the maple cuts well with jigs on the table saw.

The first project was a small side lamp.






The next project design was inspired by Des King whose videos were the start of my voyage of discovery. This is a 'Coaster Panel'.






I forget for the source of inspiration for the display stand below






The following tealight shades served as last year's Christmas gifts for the family. Used with an LED tealight they are very effective (and safe).






Finally, I made a ceiling shade for our dining room. In this I used cellophane wrapping sheets to add colour to the project. The right hand shows a single panel against daylight.






The next project is based on a hexagonal box made by Mike Farrington which I will use to hold pot pourri (next year's Christmas gifts, perhaps).


----------



## Callum

Made this small step stool for my daughter. There’s a few gaps and it’s not perfect but I’m still practicing.


----------



## paulrbarnard

Callum said:


> View attachment 105747
> View attachment 105748
> View attachment 105749
> Made this small step stool for my daughter. There’s a few gaps and it’s not perfect but I’m still practicing.


That lovely. The lines and proportions are great.


----------



## Callum

paulrbarnard said:


> That lovely. The lines and proportions are great.


Thank you


----------



## Jonzjob

That's quite delightful Paul. I really like the center contrasting strips, they set it off well! I'll bet te gaps are smaller than I would have done


----------



## Jameshow

What wood did you use. 

Looks lovely. 

Cheers James


----------



## Callum

Jameshow said:


> What wood did you use.
> 
> Looks lovely.
> 
> Cheers James


Thanks. I used hard maple and then cherry and black walnut for the strips and wedges.


----------



## Chippysu

Callum said:


> View attachment 105747
> View attachment 105748
> View attachment 105749
> Made this small step stool for my daughter. There’s a few gaps and it’s not perfect but I’m still practicing.


The design is great, flows well and the accent wood really sets it off. What gaps? Only you see your 'design changes'!


----------



## Chippysu

pulleyt said:


> Hi. My name is Trevor and I am a Kumiko addict. Since I discovered my first YouTube video on Kumiko early on during lockdown, it has taken over my waking hours.
> 
> Ok, I exaggerate considerably but I have got a lot of enjoyment from several kumiko inspired projects over the last 10 months. I don't find it too samey - certainly no more than a lot of woodworking processes might appear to be samey. What I would same is that it is time consuming but the satisfaction of the final result, for me, is ample reward. Almost equal tot he satisfaction of the finished object is the creation of successful jigs to aid preparation and completion of the projects.
> 
> I have used both lime and maple for the kumiko strips as well odd bits of interesting hardwood scraps for occasional accents. The lime is very nice to use with hand tools and the maple cuts well with jigs on the table saw.
> 
> The first project was a small side lamp.
> 
> View attachment 105712
> 
> 
> The next project design was inspired by Des King whose videos were the start of my voyage of discovery. This is a 'Coaster Panel'.
> 
> View attachment 105713
> 
> 
> I forget for the source of inspiration for the display stand below
> 
> View attachment 105714
> 
> 
> The following tealight shades served as last year's Christmas gifts for the family. Used with an LED tealight they are very effective (and safe).
> 
> View attachment 105715
> 
> 
> Finally, I made a ceiling shade for our dining room. In this I used cellophane wrapping sheets to add colour to the project. The right hand shows a single panel against daylight.
> 
> View attachment 105716
> 
> 
> The next project is based on a hexagonal box made by Mike Farrington which I will use to hold pot pourri (next year's Christmas gifts, perhaps).


Trevor, well I'm very impressed with these! Thanks so much for explaining and the pics. My boxfull of 'too small to be useful, but just can't throw away' now have a purpose! Well I'm going to have to get the book now aren't I! (I will of course blame you when hubby sees another craft book appear)


----------



## Robbo60

Callum said:


> View attachment 105747
> View attachment 105748
> View attachment 105749
> Made this small step stool for my daughter. There’s a few gaps and it’s not perfect but I’m still practicing.


Callum - That's very nice. Good work


----------



## Robbo60

pulleyt said:


> Hi. My name is Trevor and I am a Kumiko addict. Since I discovered my first YouTube video on Kumiko early on during lockdown, it has taken over my waking hours.
> 
> Ok, I exaggerate considerably but I have got a lot of enjoyment from several kumiko inspired projects over the last 10 months. I don't find it too samey - certainly no more than a lot of woodworking processes might appear to be samey. What I would same is that it is time consuming but the satisfaction of the final result, for me, is ample reward. Almost equal tot he satisfaction of the finished object is the creation of successful jigs to aid preparation and completion of the projects.
> 
> I have used both lime and maple for the kumiko strips as well odd bits of interesting hardwood scraps for occasional accents. The lime is very nice to use with hand tools and the maple cuts well with jigs on the table saw.
> 
> The first project was a small side lamp.
> 
> View attachment 105712
> 
> 
> The next project design was inspired by Des King whose videos were the start of my voyage of discovery. This is a 'Coaster Panel'.
> 
> View attachment 105713
> 
> 
> I forget for the source of inspiration for the display stand below
> 
> View attachment 105714
> 
> 
> The following tealight shades served as last year's Christmas gifts for the family. Used with an LED tealight they are very effective (and safe).
> 
> View attachment 105715
> 
> 
> Finally, I made a ceiling shade for our dining room. In this I used cellophane wrapping sheets to add colour to the project. The right hand shows a single panel against daylight.
> 
> View attachment 105716
> 
> 
> The next project is based on a hexagonal box made by Mike Farrington which I will use to hold pot pourri (next year's Christmas gifts, perhaps).


Could you suggest something VERY simple as my first project? Best YT channel? I lack patience, which maybe a problem


----------



## Doug B

Robbo60 said:


> Could you suggest something VERY simple as my first project? Best YT channel? I lack patience, which maybe a problem


Mike Pekovich is an excellent exponent of kumiko I follow him on Instagram but he has you tube videos


----------



## pulleyt

Robbo60 said:


> Could you suggest something VERY simple as my first project? Best YT channel? I lack patience, which maybe a problem


To answer your question, it does depend on whether you have a preference for hand tools, machines or a mixture of both. The quickest way to get started would be to buy a starter set such as that provided by Mike Pekovich in the video above that includes the prepared strips and the necessary jigs.

Assuming you prefer not to spend on ready made jigs, the simplest project would be something like the tealight surrounds I made where all the joints are at 90 degrees. When you get into the infill patterns as in Mike P's video above then you need some way of putting bevels of varying degrees on the pieces. I've used two methods. One using blocks and a chisel like Mike P uses above and the other uses a set of jigs I made for use with a disc sander. 

The other consideration is how you make the strips. Again, I have tried various methods using a table saw, a track saw and a laborious process using a band saw and planer (i.e. preparing a board using the planer-thicknesser then ripping a strip of both edges of the board, then replaning both edges before cutting the next pair of strips). The bandsaw method involves cutting the strip slightly over size and refining the surface cut on the bandsaw to get the final thickness.

I'll create a new thread in the Projects forum to go into more detail and show the jigs that I've made and link to the various YouTube videos that have inspired each method. This may take a while but the jigs are key to making Kumiko and deciding on your preferred approach to your first project.

I would recommend the journey, but it is 'down a rabbit hole' if you're not careful


----------



## Doug B

The Mother in law has been going on about wanting a wooden light pull for a while now so with it being Mothering Sunday I took the opportunity to turn one from rippled Sycamore.






Obviously not wanting to miss an opportunity I’ve wrapped it in a Pandora bag,  sadly with the covid restrictions I’ll not get to see her open it


----------



## furnace

Thingybob said:


> Before i retired use to make full size projects now i work in miniature no bad backs and i enjoy the challenge of making small joints View attachment 105640
> View attachment 105641


Check out Login • Instagram for miniature woodwork stuff. It's very heartwarming


----------



## furnace

Callum said:


> View attachment 105747
> View attachment 105748
> View attachment 105749
> Made this small step stool for my daughter. There’s a few gaps and it’s not perfect but I’m still practicing.


Getting those through tenons flawless is tough. Very well done.


----------



## Musicman8

I have been scroll sawing for just over a year now and really enjoy making lots of different pieces for family and friends. Recently upgraded my Record Power saw to the Axminster 535SS, great for all the internal cuts.


----------



## Cabinetman

Most impressed with that depiction of a little girl with a balloon, incredible effect just by removing bits of wood here and leaving bits of wood there. Ian


----------



## MarkDennehy

These mother's day flowers won't wilt


----------



## Graham Warner

Just getting into the world of woodturning, I found a picture of these & copied them


----------



## Sub901

Hi all,

The last thing I made was a much needed hand tool cabinet. Now I just need to fill it up.


----------



## Robbo60

Sub901 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> The last thing I made was a much needed hand tool cabinet. Now I just need to fill it up.


Are they 2 different cabinets? Wondered why you made first one in 2 sections? Planning on building one so interested


----------



## Sub901

Hi

It is one cabinet with a separator and then 2 sets of doors. I did this mainly to have more storage space and to make the distinction between the slope of the plane storage and the saw till. It seemed to work really well and the drawers add another layer of handy storage.

Any other questions let me know.


----------



## Robbo60

Sub901 said:


> Hi
> 
> It is one cabinet with a separator and then 2 sets of doors. I did this mainly to have more storage space and to make the distinction between the slope of the plane storage and the saw till. It seemed to work really well and the drawers add another layer of handy storage.
> 
> Any other questions let me know.


It still looks like two/three different cabinets. One picture with two cabinets (one with speed square in and one with chisels. Then one with a divider and drawers. Apologies if I am being a bit dim??


----------



## Sub901

Hopefully these photos will explain. One large back cabinet with a separator and three drawers below. Then a set of doors with the internal panel inset, so I can hang things from both sides. Then an outer door.


----------



## Robbo60

Sub901 said:


> Hopefully these photos will explain. One large back cabinet with a separator and three drawers below. Then a set of doors with the internal panel inset, so I can hang things from both sides. Then an outer door.


now I get it. The double door design. very goo


----------



## Dominik Pierog




----------



## Ozi

Callum said:


> View attachment 105747
> View attachment 105748
> View attachment 105749
> Made this small step stool for my daughter. There’s a few gaps and it’s not perfect but I’m still practicing.


As with any project the man who made it sees all the faults, from these photos I'd have been very please to have done as well.


----------



## G S Haydon

"UnderTV Cabinet" Olive Ash and Brown Oak. All drawer construction in quarter sawn oak.

It was a very wild piece of ash. This was great from a design point of view. I was able to offset the fissure to create some interest, a bit of tension too between a square design and dramatic timber.

The project was lead by the wood. There was no going back for extra. I had just enough to do it while maintaining a good grain wrap.


----------



## Cabinetman

You should be justifiably proud of that piece, it’s very nicely made. It’s not a criticism as you may be using it as a design feature, but had you thought to stop the dovetail housings for the two vertical divisions just short of the front edge? Ian


----------



## Fred48

Lovely design. I do enjoy seeing exactly how the cabinet was constructed and the excellent workmanship.


----------



## G S Haydon

Thanks Ian. It was my intention to have exposed joinery. It is difficult to know if some of that joinery would be better hidden. I think would look good with stopped housings too so food for thought on the next project.


----------



## G S Haydon

Thank you Fred. It was largely made by hand. I used machinery for timber preparation and I did need to sand the ash as the grain was just so difficult to work. 
It was a time consuming piece as I just did the odd hour here and there.


----------



## thetyreman

I really like the exposed joinery, beautiful heirloom piece.


----------



## G S Haydon

Thank you. I'm looking forward to when DIY tasks are done at home and I can get stuck into a good project again.


----------



## Fitzroy

G S Haydon said:


> "UnderTV Cabinet" Olive Ash and Brown Oak. All drawer construction in quarter sawn oak.
> 
> It was a very wild piece of ash. This was great from a design point of view. I was able to offset the fissure to create some interest, a bit of tension too between a square design and dramatic timber.
> 
> The project was lead by the wood. There was no going back for extra. I had just enough to do it while maintaining a good grain wrap.



Lovely piece! Why are the dovetails on the ends a different depth to the others, what am I not understanding?


----------



## DBT85

Got to be a makers mark. A signature of a great craftsmans work.

That's what I tell people.


----------



## G S Haydon

Fitzroy said:


> Lovely piece! Why are the dovetails on the ends a different depth to the others, what am I not understanding?
> View attachment 106243


Thank you. Nice spot on the joinery. For the even more sharp eyed you'll notice the back one is smaller too. I made the back tail less in deep by the depth of the groove that holds the back. I made a judgement and decided to copy that on the front to give it some symmetry.


----------



## G S Haydon

DBT85 said:


> Got to be a makers mark. A signature of a great craftsmans work.
> 
> That's what I tell people.



I'll take that


----------



## ManowarDave

A birdcage awl, inspired by various Internet sources.

The blade was an old sds drill bit, the brass ferrule an M12 dome nut and the handle is sapele reclaimed from an old gate.

I don't have a lathe so the handle was made in the Paul Sellers plane knob fashion (although sanded in the drill). Finished with danish oil.






Dave


----------



## Orraloon

Thats very well done without a lathe.
Regards
John


----------



## ManowarDave

Thanks John,

It wasn't easy but I was surprised how "not difficult" it was. Certainly not as fast as a lathe though, I'm sure.

Dave


----------



## Dominik Pierog




----------



## richarddownunder

Another guitar - my 3rd effort. Sounds good but I really struggled with the French polishing this time. Rosewood takes on a different colour outside in the sunshine (at least to the camera sensor)! The brown is more realistic! This design has a bolt on-bolt off neck which was quite challenging to make.
Cheers
Richard


----------



## paulrbarnard

Dominik Pierog said:


>



Quick question. I’ve always wondered when seeing pencils in resin what happens where the ‘lead’ gets exposed. Isn’t it then going to mark surfaces or in the case of coloured pencils expose a softer waxy surface?


----------



## Dominik Pierog

paulrbarnard said:


> Quick question. I’ve always wondered when seeing pencils in resin what happens where the ‘lead’ gets exposed. Isn’t it then going to mark surfaces or in the case of coloured pencils expose a softer waxy surface?



Haha me to... So now I know it's everywhere if you use lacquer to secure it... starts dissolving.


----------



## thetyreman

made a tissue box out of curly cherry, with wood from kindly sent to me a while ago from @custard I used my high angle 55 degree plane for the final smoothing on this, a gift for my mum on mothers day last weekend, finished with de-waxed shellac then peacock wax.


----------



## Rorton

Had a few issues with version 1 of this with the lid warping. Lid was originally cut from the box. 

Anyway, revisited, and made a new lid, and its worked out ok. 

Finished in OSMO PolyX satin


----------



## Fred48

Beautiful combination of the two timbers. Oak and walnut? I wonder if the lid contracts too much there could be an issue because the hinges will prevent this happening and it could split.
I made a box for my daughter in a workshop that was not centrally heated, and it was amazing how quickly gaps appeared after a few weeks in her home.
Alan


----------



## Rorton

thanks - yeah, Oak and walnut - im hoping the lid doesn't shrink! The last lid I made bowed due to user error - I guess I will put it down to experience if it does. 

I know the feeling, moving from workshop to heated house does weird and wonderful things


----------



## thetyreman

richarddownunder said:


> Another guitar - my 3rd effort. Sounds good but I really struggled with the French polishing this time. Rosewood takes on a different colour outside in the sunshine (at least to the camera sensor)! The brown is more realistic! This design has a bolt on-bolt off neck which was quite challenging to make.
> Cheers
> Richard



that's a beautiful guitar Richard, I had a go at editing the photo just for fun in lightroom, it was mostly the white balance, hopefully this should look closer to the real colours.


----------



## Fergie 307

Very nice. Can I ask what the white corner inserts are made from?


----------



## Jameshow

Nothing like the other stuff on here but a functional coat stand! 

Cheers James


----------



## richarddownunder

thetyreman said:


> that's a beautiful guitar Richard, I had a go at editing the photo just for fun in lightroom, it was mostly the white balance, hopefully this should look closer to the real colours.


Thanks! yes that looks more like it. I just pointed the camera and click. Anyway, the main thing is the guitar sounds OK. It's interesting to compare as its twin sounds quite different. A combination of different wood, different thickness of back (slightly) and different strings. Both have their interesting characteristics.

Cheers
Richard


----------



## Farm Labourer

"It's our nephew's 5th birthday tomorrow and I'm going to drop off a card, would you have a minute to knock him up something? Maybe a piggy-bank?!" Poor kid has one of those stupid names that I can never spell - Bhodi or Bodhi and he'll never even have a Capri! Oak offcuts cut on my CNC with Perspex windows, cut on the CNC, too. Finished with sanding sealer and hard wax as Osmo would not have a chance to dry.


----------



## TRITON

richarddownunder said:


> Another guitar - my 3rd effort. Sounds good but I really struggled with the French polishing this time. Rosewood takes on a different colour outside in the sunshine (at least to the camera sensor)! The brown is more realistic! This design has a bolt on-bolt off neck which was quite challenging to make.
> Cheers
> Richard


Lovely instrument Richard.


----------



## TRITON

Jameshow said:


> Nothing like the other stuff on here but a functional coat stand!
> 
> Cheers James


Functional is what it's all about. Look at shaker furniture. 

We look forward to seeing Coat-stand #2


----------



## Fred48

Farm Labourer
I think your Nephew will love the piggy bank. 
Would you be happy to share the make and model of your CNC machine please?


----------



## Farm Labourer

Fred48 said:


> Farm Labourer
> I think your Nephew will love the piggy bank.
> Would you be happy to share the make and model of your CNC machine please?


Hi Fred - I bought s/h, an Ooznest Workbee - I run Vectric Aspire as the design software. Although I do work in IT, I'm not a techie geek, so ensured that I could learn and get on with the software before I bought the hardware. It was actually a lot more straightforward than I expected - however it makes one really think about the construction, tool-paths and strategy to achieve one's goals. I really enjoyed designing Bodhi's piggy bank. It's not perfect but it's more than just functional!

I love making things by hand-tools but am realistic enough to know that for repetitious tasks, something that gives one the acurate repeatability is such a time-saver! In the first six months of ownership, I made enough house signs to pay for the acquistion!

Happy days!


----------



## Fred48

Hi Farm Labourer,
Thanks for that information. Very helpful


----------



## Jameshow

TRITON said:


> Functional is what it's all about. Look at shaker furniture.
> 
> We look forward to seeing Coat-stand #2


Hope not! It's built like a tank! 

Don't want to see sliding dovetails anytime soon! 

Cheers James


----------



## JoshD

I'm out of action for big stuff due to back problems (due for surgery next month). Had some spalted elm in for a bigger project and used an offcut to make this tray. I've never used it before.

I wonder if my elm is a bit too spalted: very fragile, very porous? I ended up using epoxy to fill the grain and also to stabilise and strengthen the wood, and fill some voids: I painted it on all over, the wood drank the epoxy up in a way I've never seen before; I then sanded the surface epoxy off so that I could get a proper wood finish with osmo polyx. Epoxy had filled grain and penetrated into wood, so it's not the quite the usual finish I love, it's a bit too smooth ... but quite handy in a tray in that it should be fairly water resistant. It's also very light because the wood has lost so much weight.


----------



## evildrome

Its a working 1/2 scale model of a Neumann VMS70 record mastering lathe.

100% scratch built from photos I found on the internet, using period appropriate manual machinery. (Except for the small fasteners which were purchased.)

Not quite finished. Although mechanically capable I still need to add some finishing visual touches (like the strobe rings on the platter) and tidy the surface finishes up & choose a paint colour.


----------



## TRITON

Jameshow said:


> Hope not! It's built like a tank!
> 
> Don't want to see sliding dovetails anytime soon!
> 
> Cheers James


It was a conscious choice not to inquire on the aesthetics  I was being kind 

I like chunky, I've made enough of it  Fulfills the function of something that does a job and fades into the background. Functional, and its practical,because it certainly is chunky and likely to last.


----------



## paulrbarnard

evildrome said:


> Its a working 1/2 scale model of a Neumann VMS70 record mastering lathe.
> 
> 100% scratch built from photos I found on the internet, using period appropriate manual machinery. (Except for the small fasteners which were purchased.)
> 
> Not quite finished. Although mechanically capable I still need to add some finishing visual touches (like the strobe rings on the platter) and tidy the surface finishes up & choose a paint colour.
> 
> View attachment 106668


I have to ask. Why half scale? Are you also making a half scale record player?


----------



## TRITON

That would be a perfect match.


----------



## DennisCA

I made this oak cutting board





Before that I also made this router jig to flatten it:


----------



## evildrome

paulrbarnard said:


> I have to ask. Why half scale? Are you also making a half scale record player?



Full scale is for mastering 12" LPs. I'm only interested in 45s & on a more practical note, my furnace is big enough to pour that base casting.

I would need 3 furnaces the size I have to cast the full scale base as things that are twice as big have four times the volume.


----------



## Gardener

G S Haydon said:


> "UnderTV Cabinet" Olive Ash and Brown Oak. All drawer construction in quarter sawn oak.
> 
> It was a very wild piece of ash. This was great from a design point of view. I was able to offset the fissure to create some interest, a bit of tension too between a square design and dramatic timber.
> 
> The project was lead by the wood. There was no going back for extra. I had just enough to do it while maintaining a good grain wrap.


Looks great !


----------



## Gardener

DennisCA said:


> I made this oak cutting board
> View attachment 106736
> 
> 
> Before that I also made this router jig to flatten it:
> View attachment 106735


Like the idea of the jig


----------



## paulrbarnard

evildrome said:


> Full scale is for mastering 12" LPs. I'm only interested in 45s & on a more practical note, my furnace is big enough to pour that base casting.
> 
> I would need 3 furnaces the size I have to cast the full scale base as things that are twice as big have four times the volume.


Ah it’s half size not half scale. That makes more sense. Half scale would have meant the groves would have been half the size too.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

I’m pleased with these African Blackwood hinges so far. Got bronze bushings integrated to increase their life by, hopefully, many decades... also no squeaking from wood on wood 

More photos of the cabinet here if interested...








Oak Sideboard / Media Centre - Long Term Project


So i’ve shamefully had this project on the go since 2017!! So far this is by far the largest and most complicated thing i’ve made (or am still making). It’s all traditional joinery and largely made of solid oak. The doors have solid Oak Burr floating panels which are framed with African...




www.ukworkshop.co.uk


----------



## BigDan1190

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> I’m pleased with these African Blackwood hinges so far. Got bronze bushings integrated to increase their life by, hopefully, many decades... also no squeaking from wood on wood
> 
> More photos of the cabinet here if interested...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oak Sideboard / Media Centre - Long Term Project
> 
> 
> So i’ve shamefully had this project on the go since 2017!! So far this is by far the largest and most complicated thing i’ve made (or am still making). It’s all traditional joinery and largely made of solid oak. The doors have solid Oak Burr floating panels which are framed with African...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ukworkshop.co.uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 106916



Bloody beautiful, the hinges and the cabinet itself!


----------



## bourbon

OK, not to the same standard as you lot, but I'm having a go and that's all that matters. In a wood group on face book, they were raving about the Katzu palm router, as I love power tools, I had to get one and made this.


----------



## Sandyn

Latest creation has now left the workshop thank goodness.
It's a play rocket and probably contains more processing power that the first rocket that actually went to the moon. One of the most appreciated items was a little MP3 sound processor with 4MB storage, so every time a button is pressed, it plays a MP3 file. You can get a lot of little sound files in 4MB. I used Text Aloud (text to speech) to create some of the files. It also contained a sound generator chip linked to a recycled model aircraft controller to vary the frequency. This turned out to be the 'hyper drive' for jumping between planets in seconds!! I also added a small PWM as a lamp dimmer. I used the old LEDs from an LED tube I broke recently. The dials were found on line, printed and laminated with a little LED back light. The windows are recycled pan lids. The slide and steps were a recycled slide, split in two.


----------



## Thingybob

Fantastic bet the kids love it (guess whos getting a best grandad mug for easter) Sorry if im presuming whos kids its for


----------



## Sandyn

Thingybob said:


> guess whos getting a best grandad mug for easter


Yes, for my grandson's birthday. I got.... 'Grandad, you are my best friend' and a hug, so worth the effort.


----------



## Dominik Pierog

Box with resin top


----------



## Chris Brunton

bourbon said:


> OK, not to the same standard as you lot, but I'm having a go and that's all that matters. In a wood group on face book, they were raving about the Katzu palm router, as I love power tools, I had to get one and made this. View attachment 106927


Good stuff


----------



## Jameshow

bourbon said:


> OK, not to the same standard as you lot, but I'm having a go and that's all that matters. In a wood group on face book, they were raving about the Katzu palm router, as I love power tools, I had to get one and made this. View attachment 106927


You can join me in reception class!! 

Cheers James


----------



## Jonm

Wood Cart made from pre used wood.
This is not up to the normal workmanship standards on this post but it was made quickly from osb, ply and mdf. All pre used from a building project, with some water damage and heading for the skip. Design taken from “woodworking for mere mortals”, link below





Make a rolling lumber cart – Woodworking for Mere Mortals







woodworkingformeremortals.com





My design is attached, as well as a couple of photos. Compared to the WWMM design I have removed the shelves to reduce the depth. I also reduced the width from 1.2m to 0.9m to reduce the space it takes up. That was a mistake, inevitably I want to store some sheet materials that are 1.2m wide so It takes up that width, I would have been better with 1.2m width and an extra bin.

One of the photos shows a small removable box hooked over the upright, useful for small wood blocks.

Cost about £12 for the castors plus glue and screws as wood was going for scrap. All a bit rough but works well.


----------



## OBr

I’ve been making beasties.


----------



## TRITON

Oh look an elephant in the room 

Very nice, very quirky.


----------



## Orraloon

OBr said:


> View attachment 107013
> View attachment 107013
> 
> I’ve been making beasties.


Always room for another beastie.


----------



## Jonm

Sandyn said:


> It's a play rocket and probably contains more processing power that the first rocket that actually went to the moon.


Wow, that is really impressive, especially the clever reuse of materials to make something so unique and special. Your grandson must be very pleased.


----------



## Ozi

Sandyn said:


> Latest creation has now left the workshop thank goodness.
> It's a play rocket and probably contains more processing power that the first rocket that actually went to the moon. One of the most appreciated items was a little MP3 sound processor with 4MB storage, so every time a button is pressed, it plays a MP3 file. You can get a lot of little sound files in 4MB. I used Text Aloud (text to speech) to create some of the files. It also contained a sound generator chip linked to a recycled model aircraft controller to vary the frequency. This turned out to be the 'hyper drive' for jumping between planets in seconds!! I also added a small PWM as a lamp dimmer. I used the old LEDs from an LED tube I broke recently. The dials were found on line, printed and laminated with a little LED back light. The windows are recycled pan lids. The slide and steps were a recycled slide, split in two.
> 
> View attachment 106931
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 106933
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 106934


I approve of your pricing policy, that's the best return on your time you will ever get


----------



## Seaside Donkey

No footy, no cricket, no gigs so plenty of time and a little spare cash available to spend on some woodworking projects. Not up to the standards seen on here but give me another twenty years.......





First up is my go at a small scale traditional joiner's tool chest. There's a little bit of joinery involved but also some butt joints and the bottom is simply nailed on as they would have been in the past, to make replacement easy. 'Traditionally' they were painted black, blue or green but I reckon they would have been painted with whatever is spare about the place, as this one has been. It contains one sliding till and was made from scrap.


----------



## bourbon

finished this yesterday. Unfortunately, It was for the ashes of our dog who we had to let go. Made of mahogany with glass rebated into the top


----------



## Jameshow

Seaside Donkey said:


> No footy, no cricket, no gigs so plenty of time and a little spare cash available to spend on some woodworking projects. Not up to the standards seen on here but give me another twenty years.......
> 
> View attachment 107029
> 
> First up is my go at a small scale traditional joiner's tool chest. There's a little bit of joinery involved but also some butt joints and the bottom is simply nailed on as they would have been in the past, to make replacement easy. 'Traditionally' they were painted black, blue or green but I reckon they would have been painted with whatever is spare about the place, as this one has been. It contains one sliding till and was made from scrap.



Looks sturdy 
Any pictures of the inside? 

Cheers James


----------



## Seaside Donkey

Jameshow said:


> Looks sturdy
> Any pictures of the inside?
> 
> Cheers James


Inside is er.............. utilitarian rather than pretty.





It's also got chest lifts fitted now so I suppose it wasn't really finished yesterday. Much easier to handle the weight now and it looks a lot better too.


----------



## Vince_Harley

Turned an oak mushroom was a bit sharp so had to smooth the top off after


----------



## kinverkid

I was given two sets of drawers. One set oak and the other pine with tulip wood sides. They are are very old and were just used for storage in a shed. Without the chests I was forced to take them apart for re-cycling. With some of the oak I made these two arts and crafts style candlestick holders. They are 430mm high with a base of 170mm square. With the pine drawer fronts I made some fold-up steps. They are not finished yet because I'm out of some
tough varnish a


they will get kicked around the workshop.


----------



## MARK.B.

Those look great, the nice tall candle holders just perfect either side of the fire place. Both sets of steps would not be out of place in any kitchen Modern or Old 
Extra bonus points for giving new life to some lovely old wood


----------



## thick_mike

I love those steps


----------



## Cordy

Very nice kk, those candlestick holders give me an idea for a bird table base


----------



## kinverkid

Cordy said:


> Very nice kk, those candlestick holders give me an idea for a bird table base


Yes, I can see that too.


----------



## undergroundhunter

Mirror frame in white Oak with sapele detail. Made to fit a vintage mirror plate.


----------



## Seaside Donkey

Box with sliding lid and simple dovetails.










First go at a raised panel and managed to get it fairly crisp. That 20mm pine is too heavy for a box this size but it's all I had.


----------



## Stan_LIT

Sub901 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> The last thing I made was a much needed hand tool cabinet. Now I just need to fill it up.


_ I need one of this for now my tools are everywhere. Very nice job I like it . _


----------



## Stan_LIT

I was thinking how it will works to use thin strips as a side of the shelving unit and it is turned up something like this.

































Now I have figure out how to henge it on wall  Any advice ???


----------



## TRITON

Vince_Harley said:


> Turned an oak mushroom was a bit sharp so had to smooth the top off after


Its got a nice taper to it all the same Vince. Quite like that shape. Very gothic


----------



## DennisCA

Bit more rough work today, with chainsaw, axe and an electric plane


----------



## Stigmorgan

Was asked by the Headteacher if I could repair the year4 toy shed ( the 3rd time this year) I've repaired it a dozen times in the 3 years I've been caretaker here, the original was an off the rack small shed approximately 2m wide, 1m deep and about 1.2m tall, the kids constantly mess about shutting each other in it which has ended up smashing the back panel out. 
Now I know a few people here will snort at the fact I've used pallet wood for the new shed but it's all I had to work with, that and some broken plastic benches, im fairly happy with the result.


----------



## MARK.B.

Why snort at pallet wood , it is in many cases perfectly good timber that has simply had the misfortune of being the nearest to the timber mill  .
Good on you for giving a new lease of life to the pallets and bonus points for saving the school budget some much needed cash


----------



## jrm688

1st of many cutting boards from air dried walnuts cut ~7 yrs ago. Finally took it to the mill. The cracks/defects and worm holes are filled with coloured epoxy.


Finished with mineral oil then mineral oil/beeswax cream.


----------



## Dominik Pierog

Its take whole week


----------



## swisstony

May as well join in. In my spare time I make a lot of Mud Kitchens ( from pallets ) for nurseries , schools and the local community. Been doing it for around 2 years now. Will post up some pictures later on but in the meantime one of the schools I recently made some kitchens for, asked me to make a Throne Chair. Had no idea what they meant so after a little research discovered it is what the teacher sits on to read to the kids outside . So knocked this up from fence posts , timber I had lying around and pallet wood. Really simple design, pocket hole on the inside (which is hidden) and butt joints. Has to be sturdy rather than fancy. Freehand painted their logo and everything given an outdoor finish.


----------



## stuckinthemud

Following my 'handle' thread in tools, felt obliged to post the finished article, ash heavy hammer handle


----------



## undergroundhunter

Today's little project. I use this 1 1/2" Tyzack and sons chisel all the time, it lives in a rack at the back of my bench, only thing is I hated the overly large Marples boxwood handle it had. Time to rehandle it in my absolute favourite pattern of all time, the tapered octagonal, these are so comfortable to use and easy to make, this is the 3rd I own and the 2nd I've made. The beech used was from a tree I walked past as a child on my way to school, I've had it drying for around 7 years now.


----------



## Dr Al

A massively over-engineered portable workbench with two fully home-made quick-release vices:
















More details (and LOTS more photos) in this thread for those who haven't been following along: Portable (bench-top) Workbench


----------



## Farmer Giles

A board to mount my beer taps on. And a shelf come down lighter so you can see what your pouring while the lights are down watching a movie.

All from oak scraps, much of it was close to bark on the back so glued to a ply off cut the edge with a bit more oak

The beer is in the cellar on the other side of the wall


----------



## MARK.B.

What do you have on tap then  Farmer Giles, lockdown rules cannot last for ever and i could murder a decent pint


----------



## hedgelayer

Lovely work - maybe time to hand it over to the ladies (ok "someone else with upholstery skills" for the woke folks) to provide some inspiring upholstery ?


----------



## Bm101

MARK.B. said:


> What do you have on tap then  Farmer Giles, lockdown rules cannot last for ever and i could murder a decent pint


I second that.


----------



## Seaside Donkey

Pine box for my bike tools.


----------



## D_W

Posted elsewhere already on here, but four file chisels with olive wood handles.

I've figured out that making no profit on these is a good way to...make no profit, and overall spend a bunch of money on equipment, but have also found a bunch of offers for horse trading. That adds sort of a lottery appeal to the whole thing.

Short one needed some hammer straightening after hardening, and sometimes the tip doesn't survive that, just as here.


----------



## MarkDennehy

It's not exactly rocket surgery, but...
Cheapest commercial pen press I could find was 75 euro in Ireland, $45 in china plus $25 shipping (I don't imagine covid and brexit are helping much with that). 
However, a "push action toggle" is 14 euro from ebay and some t-track is $8 from aliexpress and a t-track stop is $10 from aliexpress (including postage&packing) and some scraps of 4x2 and ply and a bit of sycamore turned into shallow cups and a lag bolt and some washers comes to somewhere around 30 euro all in (mainly 'cos I had all of that to hand already getting underfoot).


----------



## Sandyn

bourbon said:


> It was for the ashes of our dog who we had to let go.


That is really sad. Pets really are one of the family. It's terrible when anything happens to them.


----------



## bourbon

Sandyn said:


> That is really sad. Pets really are one of the family. It's terrible when anything happens to them.


Thank you. I only knew her for 7 years when I started going out with my girlfriend. She had had her from a puppy. She came to live with me when Girlfriend moved in, and she was a dream, No trouble at all, didn't get on the sofa, didn't go upstairs of poo in the house,


----------



## mikej460

Stan_LIT said:


> I was thinking how it will works to use thin strips as a side of the shelving unit and it is turned up something like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 107311
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 107312
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 107313
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 107314
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have figure out how to henge it on wall  Any advice ???


Looks great, my immediate thought was to make some matching dowels and fix them into then wall. If you make them to the length of the 3rd or 4th strip you could fix a turn key on the ends that could be twisted to hold the shelf in place.

just a thought


----------



## Sachakins

A couple of newly turned Easter bowls.
Small one oak, larger teddy bear bowl is Tulip Wood (Poplar?) I think. Each made from offcuts, salvaged from a door and kitchen joinery workshop.


----------



## Jonzjob

Lovely bowls Sachakins, but they ain't poplar. The tulip tree is a beautiful tree with qiute lovely flowers and the leaves are the only ones that I know of that have 4 lobes, pikky below.. Tulip wood is really nice to turn and I wish that I could get hold of some more? I'll have to sneak in to Westonbirt Arboretum again in sometime with my chain saw  

I was given a load that was cut from along the tow path of the Canal du Midi, near Carcassonne, when we lived down there, but it's all gone now.

I have just noticed that some of the leves below have 6 lobes. I've never seen that before and there are LOTS of them along the Canal du Midi!


----------



## Stan_LIT

mikej460 said:


> Looks great, my immediate thought was to make some matching dowels and fix them into then wall. If you make them to the length of the 3rd or 4th strip you could fix a turn key on the ends that could be twisted to hold the shelf in place.
> 
> just a thought



Thanks for advice. It could works OK. The shaves are only 14mm thick so i will have use 8mm dowels??. Should be strong enough.


----------



## mikej460

Stan_LIT said:


> Thanks for advice. It could works OK. The shaves are only 14mm thick so i will have use 8mm dowels??. Should be strong enough.


Depends on what you put on the shelves, you could consider 6 dowels, two per shelf.


----------



## Droogs

@Stan_LIT, you could use these inserted into the self


----------



## rob1693

Garden bench from challenging materials


----------



## rob1693

Bebch continued


----------



## Droogs

very nicely done, was it an old bed to begin with


----------



## Jameshow

Nice were the spindles turned too? 

Cheers James


----------



## Dr Al

Not *exactly *a woodwork project this, but I finally brought my website up to date (after more than a year with no updates) with details of all the woodworking I've been doing since starting about a year ago.

Link is here in case anyone is interested: CGTK - Dr Al's Woodworking Pages (and please let me know if you spot any typos/mistakes or other issues)


----------



## Stan_LIT

mikej460 said:


> Depends on what you put on the shelves, you could consider 6 dowels, two per shelf.





Droogs said:


> @Stan_LIT, you could use these inserted into the self


Thank you very much for advices. Really helpful. Now i have some idea how to do it.


----------



## Doug B

Well it’s not exactly been a restful weekend, yesterday I managed to get the MDF veneered oak doors made for a large airing cupboard front frame







It’s so tall I couldn’t stand it up in the workshop so had to hang the doors with the frame on trestles






Saturday saw me plastering a mates new workshop ceiling, I don’t like getting the trowels out these days but somethings you can’t get out of, I certainly knew I’d done it by the time I was finished






At over 42 square metres I did it in 3 goes, oh to be 20 years younger






it was a relief today to potter around at the allotment


----------



## rob1693

Legs were off a bed frane i found leaned up against a wall which I turned down seat was 2 scaffold boards spindles were the bull noses my dad cut off is stairs as seen next to blanks I turned them into comb rail was a door frame side I found in s skip


----------



## Farmer Giles

MARK.B. said:


> What do you have on tap then  Farmer Giles, lockdown rules cannot last for ever and i could murder a decent pint


Here you go


----------



## Sachakins

Jonzjob said:


> Lovely bowls Sachakins, but they ain't poplar. The tulip tree is a beautiful tree with qiute lovely flowers and the leaves are the only ones that I know of that have 4 lobes, pikky below.. Tulip wood is really nice to turn and I wish that I could get hold of some more? I'll have to sneak in to Westonbirt Arboretum again in sometime with my chain saw
> 
> I was given a load that was cut from along the tow path of the Canal du Midi, near Carcassonne, when we lived down there, but it's all gone now.
> 
> I have just noticed that some of the leves below have 6 lobes. I've never seen that before and there are LOTS of them along the Canal du Midi!
> 
> View attachment 107577


Thanks, I had a mix of woods on the off cuts pallet I bought, described as oak, mahogany, iroko, tulip wood, and poplar.
Someone else suggested those particular 3x2x40" lengths wood be either Tulip or Poplar, it don't feel like poplar to me, but never seen tulip wood before, so really just a guess on my part.
Being a pallet of all processed timber not logs, its all dry and rough sawn mainly, so not got anything to go one myself.
It was easy to turn, but fairly light weight compared to the oak and mahogany of similar sizes.

This is it after glue up, prep then 











on lathe before finishing


----------



## MARK.B.

Farmer Giles said:


> Here you go
> 
> View attachment 107623
> 
> Right then mine's a pint of Sheep Dip


----------



## patrick k




----------



## patrick k




----------



## patrick k




----------



## Seaside Donkey

Yet another box.




The sides are white oak. It was going to have a padauk base and lid but I decided not to waste such good wood on it so slapped on some pine instead. It's my first go at working with hardwood and a million things went wrong - not least this:





Checked it for square when I did a dry fit then forgot to check again when I glued and clamped it 

Also, when marking out the pins the boards with the tails on kept slipping and try as I might I couldn't realign the pieces perfectly so ended up with some horrible gaps in the joints which I've filled with slivers of wood plus sawdust & glue filler.

There's no finish on it as it will just stay in the garage waiting until I find summat to go in it.


----------



## kinverkid

Sachakins said:


> Thanks, I had a mix of woods on the off cuts pallet I bought, described as oak, mahogany, iroko, tulip wood, and poplar.
> Someone else suggested those particular 3x2x40" lengths wood be either Tulip or Poplar, it don't feel like poplar to me, but never seen tulip wood before, so really just a guess on my part.
> Being a pallet of all processed timber not logs, its all dry and rough sawn mainly, so not got anything to go one myself.
> It was easy to turn, but fairly light weight compared to the oak and mahogany of similar sizes.
> 
> This is it after glue up, prep then View attachment 107624
> View attachment 107625
> View attachment 107626
> View attachment 107627
> on lathe before finishing


That still looks like Tulipwood to me which North Americans would also refer to as Poplar. Tulipwood - Wikipedia


----------



## Sachakins

kinverkid said:


> That still looks like Tulipwood to me which North Americans would also refer to as Poplar. Tulipwood - Wikipedia


Thanks for the link, took a look and I am certain it's the same as the Wikipedia photo.
Great to have it cleared up, cheers.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Technically not yet finished (only has a coat of danish oil, I'll be giving it a few coats of rattlecan lacquer tomorrow) but it came out well so far.






Rebecca DeGroot had a how-to video on youtube so I thought I'd give it a go. Sycamore, oak for the ears and last year's xmas tree trunk for the tail.


----------



## Doug B

Thought I’d do a follow up to the airing cupboard frame & doors above as I got it finished today, this was what it was to cover.






Yes that window reveal is that much out of plumb but i guess you expect that in a 100+ year old terrace house.
A lot of scribing later & it looked like this.






& one with the doors open for folks who like that sort of thing.






Thankfully for once the finish is down to the customer


----------



## Essex Barn Workshop

My Father-in-law died in 2019. He was a great carpenter, decorator and handyman. In his order of service we did a 2-page collage of photos of him and the family. My M-I-L wanted it framed, so this is what I came up with, a double-sided frame.










I have glued the frame together so changing it isn't going to be easy!
The frame is from a bed slat, I rounded it over then used my router table to cut a thick groove before cutting the pieces to size and mitering them all. The glass is acrylic, which I cut to size. 2 coats of Osmo to finish it off.
Hooks on top so either side can be displayed.


----------



## jcassidy

Spent the weekend knocking a new bed and bookcase together for my eldest (10).

I suspected the bed would be too high, but comments like 'er, with all these drawers, it's going to be very high...' and 'you realise it's going to be like as high as the window sill?' all fell on deaf ears.

But yes, it is far too high. She's delighted but the missus and I are like, eh, no.

My wife doesn't like the idea of slats, so lowering the bed it is.


----------



## Fitzroy

After finishing the coffee table the room was too cluttered and a replacement hifi stand was the answer.

Stand is from Scottish sycamore, a big gnarly bit with voids and worm holes. Piece was treated and all holes epoxy filled. Also a big epoxy pour in the top cavity.

Legs mortised into the base, drilled out on the drill press then finished with a chisel. Compound angles so was pleased with how the joints turned out.

The shelves are 10mm toughened glass slotted into slots cut on the table saw, they have a 5cm cantilever and seem plenty strong enough. There is a recess in the back where a power bar is attached. The leg mortises, rear recess and the shelf slots were designed such that there is a 40mm uninterrupted spine to the piece to ensure its strength.

I was concerned over ensuring the piece was vertical and shelves horizontal and coplanar. Cutting all the slots on the table saw sled ensured they were coplanar and I made some spike feet to give some adjustment and allow the piece to sit on the floorboards through the carpet. The feet are a detail I rather like, and we’re fun to make. Insert nuts in the legs and 6mm machine screws with heads removed and thread filed away in the drill press.

I approached the build much more free form, sketching on my bench and laying out angles by eye. Which was a refreshing change to my normal sketch up and measure to death.

Cable management wasn’t thought about enough and there are lots of bubbles in the two epoxy pours. Need to learn for next time.

Comments, questions and criticisms welcome!

Fitz

Edit: Images fixed


----------



## MARK.B.

That is quite impressive ,really like the way you have used the natural form of the wood with just enough resin to not only fill the void but it actually enhances it in a good way


----------



## Hugopuk

Fitzroy said:


> View attachment 107859
> After finishing the coffee table the room was too cluttered and a replacement hifi stand was the answer.
> 
> Stand is from Scottish sycamore, a big gnarly bit with voids and worm holes. Piece was treated and all holes epoxy filled. Also a big epoxy pour in the top cavity.
> 
> Legs mortised into the base, drilled out on the drill press then finished with a chisel. Compound angles so was pleased with how the joints turned out.
> 
> The shelves are 10mm toughened glass slotted into slots cut on the table saw, they have a 5cm cantilever and seem plenty strong enough. There is a recess in the back where a power bar is attached. The leg mortises, rear recess and the shelf slots were designed such that there is a 40mm uninterrupted spine to the piece to ensure its strength.
> 
> I was concerned over ensuring the piece was vertical and shelves horizontal and coplanar. Cutting all the slots on the table saw sled ensured they were coplanar and I made some spike feet to give some adjustment and allow the piece to sit on the floorboards through the carpet. The feet are a detail I rather like, and we’re fun to make. Insert nuts in the legs and 6mm machine screws with heads removed and thread filed away in the drill press.
> 
> I approached the build much more free form, sketching on my bench and laying out angles by eye. Which was a refreshing change to my normal sketch up and measure to death.
> 
> Cable management wasn’t thought about enough and there are lots of bubbles in the two epoxy pours. Need to learn for next time.
> 
> Comments, questions and criticisms welcome!
> 
> Fitz
> View attachment 107866
> View attachment 107867
> View attachment 107868
> View attachment 107869
> View attachment 107870
> View attachment 107871
> View attachment 107872
> View attachment 107873


Really appreciate the complexity in its simplicity, it looks fabulous.


----------



## Noho12C

We moved in our new house in Dec, and the garden gates needed to be replaced. First one is finished and the lock was installed today. Made of American white oak, mostly with hand tools.
The posts (green oak) still need to be varnished...

Fun project, but quite hard work : tough timber for hand tools, fairly heavy (the door frame is 40 mm thick). Let's hope it ages well !


----------



## Noel

Noho12C said:


> We moved in our new house in Dec, and the garden gates needed to be replaced. First one is finished and the lock was installed today. Made of American white oak, mostly with hand tools.
> The posts (green oak) still need to be varnished...
> 
> Fun project, but quite hard work : tough timber for hand tools, fairly heavy (the door frame is 40 mm thick). Let's hope it ages well !
> 
> View attachment 107894
> 
> 
> View attachment 107895




Looks very well, what varnish did you use on the gate?


----------



## Noho12C

Noel said:


> Looks very well, what varnish did you use on the gate?


Thanks ! I used To deal outdoor varnish satin. Didn't do a good job to be honest, I never really use varnish... But should protect the wood from the British weather


----------



## PaulArthur

A little different from my normal things, and I certainly usually don’t make things in the rain, but this is probably more useful that many of the things I make... shame it’s at the mother in law’s rather than at my house though...


----------



## rob1693

Got a nice used ib8 oil stone off ebay for £8 plus p+p, had an off cut of hard wood off a door frame thought I'd make a box/holder for it


----------



## MarkDennehy

Just wanted to make a nice simple small bowl.
5"x3" chestnut, finished with poppyseed oil and yorkshire grit and hampshire sheen wax on the outside.


----------



## Jameshow

Build a rabbit hutch from the previous run and some 1/2" ply. 

After a 50 mile ride this morning so pretty jiggered! 

Cheers James


----------



## seaco

Mud kitchen for my granddaughter.


----------



## Illy

Based on an idea I saw on the internet. Oak and walnut plus some fancy acrylic offcuts I picked up being sold off at the Harrowgate show. 

Remember when we could go to shows and buy tools we didn't need !


----------



## Britman

Nothing special really. Very simple Dog Jail 

MR-MDF
Bars from wardrobe poles.


----------



## Chris152

For my lad. As you can see, it's been hanging around for a while. I based it on a pic I saw on the net, not sure I've got the knot right but he'll let me know quick sharp if its wrong. 
Steamed beech with paint and oil. Joints are just butted and glued, a few screws where the weight's held.


----------



## Droogs

Britman said:


> Nothing special really. Very simple Dog Jail
> 
> MR-MDF
> Bars from wardrobe poles.
> 
> 
> View attachment 108125


I reckon my mutt would pay to sleep in that gaff, so would most Japanese businessmen come to think of it


----------



## Britman

Droogs said:


> I reckon my mutt would pay to sleep in that gaff, so would most Japanese businessmen come to think of it


Ohhh nice little side line I could start. Would I have to dress up as a Geisha Though?


----------



## Amateur

Always have a well defined drawing to start off with....non of that sketch up palava something simple


----------



## Amateur

Then get cracking.


----------



## Amateur




----------



## Amateur




----------



## Cabinetman

Don’t do computer drawing but I need a great deal more than that when I start ha ha I’m presuming it’s a trick of the photograph – the shelves on the left-hand top bit?


----------



## Amateur

There is only one fixed shelf in the centre.
I installed bookshelf strips into the two side so that the shelves can be moved into different positions.
And yes it's my camera I'm afraid and the angle the photo was taken at.


----------



## Amateur

I actually did a, too scale drawing to determine the opening in the centre of the desk so the perspective looked right and the desk fitted into the allotted space.


----------



## Droogs

Very nicely done Amateur, Tho' think you may have cocked up the cup holders


----------



## rob1693

Garden bench now finished and painted


----------



## Amateur

Droogs said:


> Very nicely done Amateur, Tho' think you may have cocked up the cup holders


Dhooo they are actually to run the garden hose through for plant watering.


----------



## Padster

So I had a need to clear my cluttered desk, working from home whilst predominantly being my usual MO - wasn't full time previously so I had more stuff 'grow'.
I've been refurb'ing my workshop so have recently replaced all the MDF shelving with much thicker ply so it won't bow as bad (maybe upgraded the support as well!) which left some bowed MDF - it hadn't quite fully flattened out (small bow left in shelves but should flatten over time once there's a bit of load) but I succeeded in making this shelving/cabinet that sits at one end of my desk now - black satin furniture paint finished it off nicely I believe.


----------



## Mick p

I’ve made loads of these bird feeders almost all recycled materials but this bottle was so different


----------



## houtslager

something totally different for a change, for a friends daughter, she is a Goth in the making I believe.
more wierd stuff to come .


----------



## NickDReed

houtslager said:


> something totally different for a change, for a friends daughter,



Christ I panicked for a second in the middle of this sentence!


----------



## Fergie 307

houtslager said:


> View attachment 108200
> something totally different for a change, for a friends daughter, she is a Goth in the making I believe.View attachment 108201
> more wierd stuff to come .


Dare I ask what she intends to use it for?


----------



## Seaside Donkey

This box I made for my bike tools needed a bit of organising so I made a till for it.











Seldom used stuff like chain whips, cable cutters and bottom bracket spanners are in the box while frequently used stuff like Allen keys and spoke keys are in the till where I can get at 'em easily.


----------



## Jameshow

Seaside Donkey said:


> This box I made for my bike tools needed a bit of organising so I made a till for it.
> 
> View attachment 108278
> 
> 
> View attachment 108279
> 
> 
> Seldom used stuff like chain whips, cable cutters and bottom bracket spanners are in the box while frequently used stuff like Allen keys and spoke keys are in the till where I can get at 'em easily.


I'd like one please!! 

Have you vanished it? 

I would otherwise it will get grubby? Esp when you see my bikes! 

Cheers James


----------



## Seaside Donkey

Jameshow said:


> Have you vanished it?
> 
> I would otherwise it will get grubby? Esp when you see my bikes!



Ha ha thanks - forgot about how scruffy it will get. Main box has a couple of coats of acrylic spray - I'll do the till now you've reminded me.


----------



## Neil Swann

Raised planter for her indoors. Redwood for the trough c24 for legs. Three coats of linseed oil for the trough. She will be painting it.


----------



## Britman

This is my my brother work, although I did do the veneered top and leaf attachment.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Was watching Stewart Furini do a demo for conkers live this week and the spiralising stuff he was doing put an idea in my head so I got it out by making it.






One dinosaur-slashed bowl  Spalted beech with danish oil and hampshire sheen.











Nice little bit of wood, that was.


----------



## Hino

Not quite in the same league as some of the other projects posted, but it’s the first woodwork project since doing A-level woodwork, in 1986! It’s Matt Estlea’s cabinet project.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Unusual to read of anyone having done an A level woodwork - I did it in 1972. Despite being told by my master (in the olden days when they could see the papers before they were submitted) I would get a C and possibly a B, I failed it.


----------



## danst96

My second major project since my GSCE Woodwork in 2012 which i got a B for lol. 

A Kamado BBQ table made from Sapele made for a late wedding present for a good friend.

I had to get creative with gluing the frame together (mortise and tenon joinery for ultimate strength as the bbq is around 80kgs) I used packaging strap which is usually used for boxes and pallets with a strapping machine from my dads work.





I used Osmo Mahogany one coat finish for the project and pre-finished the bottom slats










This was probably the largest project i could manage in my shop as it is. I have since changed the layout to be a bit more user friendly and done a good tidy up.






got some very long parallel clamps from Rutlands which are surprisingly good. Top was doweled and glued





Cutting the hole for the bbq was a bit scary.





but it all went ok, did a quick test to make sure the bbq fits ok









And voila, table finished. It was a fun project and was my first mortise and tenon attempts (im not showing those close up lol). Perhaps the biggest challenge though was finding a vehicle big enough to deliver it to my friends house.


----------



## Hino

Looks really good. And practical / useful.


----------



## Hino

Phil Pascoe said:


> Unusual to read of anyone having done an A level woodwork - I did it in 1972. Despite being told by my master (in the olden days when they could see the papers before they were submitted) I would get a C and possibly a B, I failed it.



Ha ha. I was the first person to ever do it at my school. Fair to say the teachers weren’t up to it. Shame really as I do regret not following my passion back then. Did a geography degree instead


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I was the only one in my year - my friend didn't do A level and went on the teach woodwork at the same school for his working life.


----------



## Cabinetman

I did woodwork at A-level, my piece of work for evaluation at the end of the course (along with the exams )was a Windsor chair with laminated back arms and rockers, and to show how difficult exams were in those days (1973) even at a Grammar school I was one of only two who got an A that year, — and I’m not just talking about the ones who did woodwork, that was out of the entire sixth form all subjects. Ian


----------



## MarkDennehy

A friend who's been turning much much longer than I have said I should try turning a thin-walled bowl as a skill test because _"get gud, scrub"_. Somewhat nervewracking - if I'd farted during that last cut, every dog in the neighbourhood would have come running. 
Turned out okay though. Chestnut, with danish oil, yorkshire grit and hampshire sheen wax. 







Got the rim down to just over 2mm pre-sanding, it's around 1.6-1.7mm now.


----------



## houtslager

Fergie 307 said:


> Dare I ask what she intends to use it for?


That horrible looking female version of the ChUCKY doll, like I said, she's a Goth in the making


----------



## Bristol_Rob

Been busy building 12 cabinets for my garage loft.
Heavy work but happy with the end result.


----------



## patrick k




----------



## patrick k

Some Curved window sills I’m making for sash window repairs im doing on a 270 year old house


----------



## Dominik Pierog

I buy cheap silicone mold with other stuff.
I post it only because that looks ridiculous.


----------



## Doug B

An Oak coffin shaped picture frame for my sons partner who won the picture (the one in the frame is a photocopy for size) 






She wanted it black so I sprayed it with Chestnuts aerosol ebonising spray & satin lacquer using their aerogun for the first time, first impressions are very favourable


----------



## Rorton

Trying to organise router bits a bit better, used the Rockler inserts that take either a 1/4 or 1/2 shank

Just waiting on some clear tape for my label maker, and will label each one up 

If the drawer was a bit deeper, I could have included all my bits, but some are v long, and wouldn't fit in at the angle I wanted them. 

Happy for a first try anyway - and so much easier to access the bits now instead of all being in boxes etc...


----------



## D_W

Cabinetman said:


> I did woodwork at A-level, my piece of work for evaluation at the end of the course (along with the exams )was a Windsor chair with laminated back arms and rockers, and to show how difficult exams were in those days (1973) even at a Grammar school I was one of only two who got an A that year, — and I’m not just talking about the ones who did woodwork, that was out of the entire sixth form all subjects. Ian


Things may have changed, but I recall perfect grades being very rare when I was a kid. I think there was an assumption back then that if a kid was superb at math, but just good at penmanship, don't spare the rod on the latter.

Carried on through college here, but I wonder if that's still the case.


----------



## Cabinetman

It’s a fairly common perception here that the exams have got much easier, an A used to be the top grade and then when they were handing them out like confetti they brought in the A star. It was unusual for pupils to take more than two or at most three A-levels now they are doing five and six and often get A stars in all of them. 
When I was a kid it was commented on if somebody’s child was at University, then Tony Blair decided that all children should go to university which of course devalued the whole thing and then they realised it was costing the country a fortune so now the kids have to pay for it, not long after they started paying for it they decided to triple the rates, so now the poor devils have to pay for most of their working lives for something that they really didn’t need to start with, and an awful lot of the kids are coming out with a degree in something that is unusable. 
Still, compared to the US and how much debt your kids have, it’s got a way to go to catch you up. Ian


----------



## Phil Pascoe

When I was at school it was unusual for anyone to take more than eight O levels. My daughter is bright, but no Einstein - she got seven As, five Bs and a C at gcse.


----------



## gregmcateer

I've finally had a go at bronze brush to raise the soft grain, ebonising lacquer, gilt cream, then polishing wax. 
Ash. 15cm across x 5cm high. Wall is a bit too thick at 5mm, but got scared of ruining all the work!
Not too unhappy with the result, but know it could be much better.
Criticism welcome.


----------



## kinverkid

gregmcateer said:


> I've finally had a go at bronze brush to raise the soft grain, ebonising lacquer, gilt cream, then polishing wax.
> Ash. 15cm across x 5cm high. Wall is a bit too thick at 5mm, but got scared of ruining all the work!
> Not too unhappy with the result, but know it could be much better.
> Criticism welcome.


Nice work. What ebonising lacquer did you use?


----------



## gregmcateer

Thank you for your thumbs up, gents.
Hi KK,
Chestnut Products and their gilt cream, then buffed on their system. (No shares in them - just found their products work for me)
Cheers
Greg


----------



## Seaside Donkey

A real scrap bin special this time.











Base is Iroko from Duffield's 50p clearance bin. Back and sides are White Oak which had been discarded as it was too dinged and the spalted Beech lid was scrounged from the docks.

The beech was used for chocking cargo in the ship's holds. When the ships were unloaded the dockers would just throw it into heaps and burn it to keep warm in the winter. Some of it, like the piece above has been laying about the place for ~25 years. The pics don't do it justice - there are all sorts of colours in it. Some of it looks like marble, some of it looks like coral and some of it looks like oil on a puddle.

I don't think the three woods match very well but I'm just practising on what I can get hold of cheaply.


----------



## Ozi

Cabinetman said:


> It’s a fairly common perception here that the exams have got much easier, an A used to be the top grade and then when they were handing them out like confetti they brought in the A star. It was unusual for pupils to take more than two or at most three A-levels now they are doing five and six and often get A stars in all of them.
> When I was a kid it was commented on if somebody’s child was at University, then Tony Blair decided that all children should go to university which of course devalued the whole thing and then they realised it was costing the country a fortune so now the kids have to pay for it, not long after they started paying for it they decided to triple the rates, so now the poor devils have to pay for most of their working lives for something that they really didn’t need to start with, and an awful lot of the kids are coming out with a degree in something that is unusable.
> Still, compared to the US and how much debt your kids have, it’s got a way to go to catch you up. Ian


And all to massage the unemployment figures.

So now we start work at 18 or 21 and retire at 67. there are a lot of kids who would be much better off working from 14 as my Dad did and given day release to top up practical skills. Keeping people in school teaching them subjects they see no practical use for teaches them to do the minimum they can get away with.


----------



## Cordy

Lovely box S/Donkey; the Beech lid looks terrific !
What is the low shrub like plant in the background ?


----------



## Cabinetman

Ozi said:


> And all to massage the unemployment figures.
> 
> So now we start work at 18 or 21 and retire at 67. there are a lot of kids who would be much better off working from 14 as my Dad did and given day release to top up practical skills. Keeping people in school teaching them subjects they see no practical use for teaches them to do the minimum they can get away with.


 There is a lot of truth in what you say, how much of what I was taught in school could I remember within a year, also how much of it has been of any use to me – yes okay English maths woodwork technical drawing and I think that’s about it, have been of use. 
I used to have a theory that children should be psychologically examined to find out what sort of a brain they had before they were taught things in secondary school, some, like me have a natural ability for inventing-making things and mechanics, some are natural musicians, some artists and others find joy in history or geography etc. I sometimes think that we would all be happier and better off if we utilised and developed the natural talents we were given.


----------



## Jacob

Cabinetman said:


> There is a lot of truth in what you say, how much of what I was taught in school could I remember within a year, also how much of it has been of any use to me – yes okay English maths woodwork technical drawing and I think that’s about it, have been of use.
> I used to have a theory that children should be psychologically examined to find out what sort of a brain they had before they were taught things in secondary school, some, like me have a natural ability for inventing-making things and mechanics, some are natural musicians, some artists and others find joy in history or geography etc. I sometimes think that we would all be happier and better off if we utilised and developed the natural talents we were given.


I don't agree about natural talent - it's more about opportunities and inspiration given, if you are lucky.
There's no known way to discover talent instantly though plenty have been tried. But the slow way works - invest more in education, provide more opportunities and so on.
Education is supposed develop learning skills, encourage interest, open doors to new opportunities - it's not just about remembering a load of stuff!


----------



## Dr Al

Cordy said:


> Lovely box S/Donkey; the Beech lid looks terrific !
> What is the low shrub like plant in the background ?



Looks like lavender to me.


----------



## Seaside Donkey

Cordy said:


> What is the low shrub like plant in the background ?





Dr Al said:


> Looks like lavender to me.



Yup, it's lavender.


----------



## J-G

Jacob said:


> I don't agree about natural talent


Now there's a surprise !!


----------



## Fitzroy

Any chance we can spin off a separate thread for a discussion on skill, education, etc, etc? Keep getting a ping that someone has posted a new photo of the last thing they have made for me to come gawp at, and then...............................................


----------



## Cordy

Yes, I thought Lavender
All our Lavender has died off over winter
Unexplained death


----------



## ajsimmo

The wife wanted a drying rack for her neoprene stuff (winter swimming). Quick & easy solution -


----------



## Sarah250617

Very new to using a lathe (3 months) and I thought why not use resin too?? Not too bad


----------



## Cabinetman

Sarah250617 said:


> Very new to using a lathe (3 months) and I thought why not use resin too?? Not too bad


 Looks a bit fishy to me ha ha, did you turn the resin as well? Ian


----------



## Sarah250617

Cabinetman said:


> Looks a bit fishy to me ha ha, did you turn the resin as well? Ian


Haha! My nephew loves it. Yes I did turn the resin. Turned the base first, made a mold. Poured and set the resin and then turned the whole thing. It turns quite nicely to be fair. Just a nightmare to polish up


----------



## PaulArthur

Was commissioned by a relative to make two small sideboards to fit either side of an archway in a dining room, and to fit in with the existing colour scheme of other wood in the room of very dark brown and black wood. This had a lot of veneering, edge banding with oak strips dyed with India ink, contrasting interior veneer, and then oak drawers, and doors veneered in the same way as the cabinets. 

What a pain. I am better at veneer now though than when I started!


----------



## gasman

Kneehole writing desk in Brazilian mahogany with crotch mahogany veneered drawer fronts, drawers in olive ash, recycled brass handles and an inlaid blue leather skiver top


----------



## D_W

One more set of chisels, but this time the bolsters are permanently forge welded to the tangs. Handles of granadillo on some, others waiting yet.

These are for me to keep. Most granadillo is a more oak-like rosewoodish wood. The finish on these handles is burnished wax with only a couple of drops of shellac. Smoothest wood I've ever used, like ebony, but with stronger long grain.









And one later photo after fitting all of the handles.


----------



## danst96

gasman said:


> Kneehole writing desk in Brazilian mahogany with crotch mahogany veneered drawer fronts, drawers in olive ash, recycled brass handles and an inlaid blue leather skiver topView attachment 109059
> View attachment 109060


That is beautiful


----------



## Sandyn

A quick garden seat made from recycled wood. The slats from an old fence. The frame from support beams for a gym hall. 








Some light weight flower pot stands. As quick as I made them, my wife was finding pots for them.


----------



## Droogs

@Sandyn nicely done on the bench, was gonna be cheeky and ask how big you MIL's backside is if you had to use gym hall supports


----------



## Peri

I wanted something to fit on the shelf, to bring order to the actual pile of files, pliers, screwdrivers and assorted bits that were loosely dumped there.

Made over a couple of weekends using timber I still had from the science desk stretchers I rescued from the skip 2 years ago. Even made the draw pulls myself


----------



## Sandyn

Droogs said:


> nicely done on the bench, was gonna be cheeky and ask how big you MIL's backside is if you had to use gym hall supports


 ohhhhhhhhh you are in trouble!!! I'm going to tell her what you said.


----------



## TRITON

Cabinetman said:


> There is a lot of truth in what you say, how much of what I was taught in school could I remember within a year, also how much of it has been of any use to me – yes okay English maths woodwork technical drawing and I think that’s about it, have been of use.
> I used to have a theory that children should be psychologically examined to find out what sort of a brain they had before they were taught things in secondary school, some, like me have a natural ability for inventing-making things and mechanics, some are natural musicians, some artists and others find joy in history or geography etc. I sometimes think that we would all be happier and better off if we utilised and developed the natural talents we were given.


Sounds a bit animal farm like there CM.
Some must be workers, others leaders. I think thats a dangerous path to head down.

"People with a natural ability", well im not sure of that and sociology isn't agreed on that either. you can have an interest in one thing or the other, but i dont think its inbuilt, more a set of influences, from parents, and from society.

Nice drawer unit Peri. Might i humbly suggest something like leather or rubber sheeting on the top, as its a handy place to put tools in use. Save scratching it up.


----------



## Ozi

gasman said:


> Kneehole writing desk in Brazilian mahogany with crotch mahogany veneered drawer fronts, drawers in olive ash, recycled brass handles and an inlaid blue leather skiver topView attachment 109059
> View attachment 109060


Sorry was meaning to hit the like button and replied by mistake. Very nice work.


----------



## Wood&StuffLtd

Some I made earlier. Cracked pots from wood which had aleady split or split during turning. The table lamp is from a 6” dia pine straining post. I have sold 4 recently. The cracked pot with a stainless steel bolt is an abstract art piece entltled “chasm of the stolen vote”, a metaphor of the recent US presidential election. It is turned in highly polished pittosporum. The small pot with bark is from an apple tree root. Keeps one busy during lockdown!


----------



## Britman

Made a simple pigeon hole style shelf for my collection of vintage cameras.

Also my first time using an airless sprayer the Wagner W100.

I'm pretty happy with results, I need more practice but ain't no way I'm going back to a brush and roller


----------



## NickVanBeest

Britman said:


> Made a simple pigeon hole style shelf for my collection of vintage cameras.


You're missing a camera


----------



## Fitzroy

Britman said:


> Made a simple pigeon hole style shelf for my collection of vintage cameras.
> 
> Also my first time using an airless sprayer the Wagner W100.
> 
> I'm pretty happy with results, I need more practice but ain't no way I'm going back to a brush and roller


Oh I like that sprayer, didn’t realise you could get such a thing.


----------



## gregmcateer

Me too. 
I've tried a large sprayer with emulsion in a room, but very mixed results and waste a lot of paint and use lots of water cleaning - how did you find that to use and clean?


----------



## Britman

gregmcateer said:


> Me too.
> I've tried a large sprayer with emulsion in a room, but very mixed results and waste a lot of paint and use lots of water cleaning - how did you find that to use and clean?


Use was extremely easy. Ready to go out the box.
Cleaning was very easy, partly because I lined the paint pot with a plastic food bag.
So when I'd finished all I need to do was take out the bag put some clean water in the pot with a tiny drop of washing up liquid and run the sprayer for a few minutes. This flushed out the system. The pot was left clean.

For the amount of times I'll use it the £50 purchase price is a bargain.


----------



## Britman

NickVanBeest said:


> You're missing a camera


Got an Canon AE1 coming in the post


----------



## paulrbarnard

Britman said:


> Got an Canon AE1 coming in the post ☺


My first SLR. I kept it until I switched to Minolta when the 7000 came out. Still have that and a 7 and a 7D. I have a lubitel as well. I might need a shelf as well yours look great on yours.


----------



## Mick p

Britman said:


> Made a simple pigeon hole style shelf for my collection of vintage cameras.
> 
> Also my first time using an airless sprayer the Wagner W100.
> 
> I'm pretty happy with results, I need more practice but ain't no way I'm going back to a brush and roller


The display looks great the grey shows the cameras off very well 
is this of interest to you if so you’re welcome to it


----------



## Britman

Mick p said:


> The display looks great the grey shows the cameras off very well
> is this of interest to you if so you’re welcome to it


Very much appreciated the offer but I'm not really interested in old Cine film cameras. You can still get the 8mm film for them.


----------



## PeteHB

You can still get 35mm film and developing chemicals and paper. I have several Nikons but you can't have them


----------



## Junah

We’re gonna need a bigger cabinet!


----------



## Britman

Junah said:


> We’re gonna need a bigger cabinet!
> View attachment 109307



Maybe a locking one too, that's an expensive collection.


----------



## rob1693

Adirondack patio set from reclaimed timber


----------



## robgul

rob1693 said:


> Adirondack patio set from reclaimed timber


Looks great - Was that from a published plan? - if so I'd like a copy please . . . and when you say reclaimed timber - reclaimed from what? (I make loads of stuff from pallets (just planing the timber very lightly to smooth it)

I've seen loads of Adirondack plans but most look over-complicated/over-engineered - your set looks much better


----------



## BEE13

Actually, it's not finished yet, the making process is going to go on for some time, but I've just returned to volunteering at the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard and we're building a full size working replica of a WW1 (very) fast torpedo boat known as a CMB (Coastal Motor Boat).

I've been involved since the start, helping with the lofting, building and setting out the moulds, the basic framework including steam bending and, now, planking.

This is a cutting edge 40' lightweight boat that was capable of 40 knots over 100 years ago (!) but our replica will have a more powerful engine but won't be carrying live torpedoes! The boatbuilding techniques are more akin to aircraft technology than traditional boatbuilding. It's a totally unique project and I count myself lucky to be involved,especially as I'm a retired Chartered Building Surveyor, not a professional boatbuilder! I'm really glad to be back to the project.


----------



## rob1693

robgul said:


> Looks great - Was that from a published plan? - if so I'd like a copy please . . . and when you say reclaimed timber - reclaimed from what? (I make loads of stuff from pallets (just planing the timber very lightly to smooth it)
> 
> I've seen loads of Adirondack plans but most look over-complicated/over-engineered - your set looks much better


I used norm abrams plans and took templates from what I produced in 9mm ply for easier making of future ones , the table and footrest he made in the 20th anniversary edition couldn't find plans for those so winged it from picture


----------



## rob1693

rob1693 said:


> I used norm abrams plans and took templates from what I produced in 9mm ply for easier making of future ones , the table and footrest he made in the 20th anniversary edition couldn't find plans for those so winged it from picture


Reclaimed pine bed and wardrobe i found in a skip


----------



## robgul

rob1693 said:


> Reclaimed pine bed and wardrobe i found in a skip



Thanks - I hadn't seen those plans - the hunt is now on fo suitable timber (and the template idea is a good one as I'll doubtless be asked to make more than one)


----------



## Nelly111s

I've finished "designing" an Adirondack chair in Fusion 360, see render below. I've got a few sheets of the drawings left to finish, but I. could send these out as a pdf if required?


----------



## AlanY

NickVanBeest said:


> You're missing a camera


He is using it to take the photo!


----------



## kinverkid

rob1693 said:


> Reclaimed pine bed and wardrobe i found in a skip


Been busy today cutting out the card template to stick to sheet material (whatever is lying about) and will be using old, reclaimed 1" floorboards. I was asked a while back to make two so I feel I've been inspired to make a start. Thanks for the PDF.


----------



## PaulArthur

A friend of mine is going through a bit of a tough time as his wife has the big C, and he has to spend a lot of his time looking after her and their three kids. 

When he gets some alone time, he sits in his office listening to his vinyl collection and needs some way of displaying and storing his collection, so as a little gift to try to cheer him up a little, I made him this nice little box for storing it. 

I didn’t take any pictures of it, but there’s red suede on the bottom.


----------



## mikej460

AlanY said:


> He is using it to take the photo!


Either that or it's his hidden camera


----------



## AlanY

BEE13 said:


> Actually, it's not finished yet, the making process is going to go on for some time, but I've just returned to volunteering at the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard and we're building a full size working replica of a WW1 (very) fast torpedo boat known as a CMB (Coastal Motor Boat).
> 
> I've been involved since the start, helping with the lofting, building and setting out the moulds, the basic framework including steam bending and, now, planking.
> 
> This is a cutting edge 40' lightweight boat that was capable of 40 knots over 100 years ago (!) but our replica will have a more powerful engine but won't be carrying live torpedoes! The boatbuilding techniques are more akin to aircraft technology than traditional boatbuilding. It's a totally unique project and I count myself lucky to be involved,especially as I'm a retired Chartered Building Surveyor, not a professional boatbuilder! I'm really glad to be back to the project.


Back in the days when I could afford such things, I used to keep my boat in Northney Marina on Hayling Island and I think I met a group of folk from the Pompey Historic Dockyard, complete with original WW2 MTB! They were visiting to attend an event in Chichester Harbour and had overnighted not ten feet from my berth. Those boats are big, powerful and very loud. I was very impressed at the amount of time, effort and money put into maintaining that historic boat by such a few people. Congratulations on being part of that organisation and I wish you well with your project.


----------



## paulrbarnard

Nelly111s said:


> I've finished "designing" an Adirondack chair in Fusion 360, see render below. I've got a few sheets of the drawings left to finish, but I. could send these out as a pdf if required?View attachment 109477
> View attachment 109478
> View attachment 109479


Would it be better to have a 45 degree slat on the transition from the seat to the front of the seat? That edge looks a little ‘sharp’ to be comfortable. When you are laid back that’s right where your legs will rub.


----------



## Jonm

My small compressor has wheels and a handle which is too low. To move it you can stoop down and get a crick in your back, lift it up so the handle is at a convenient height and it then the compressor tips over backwards or pick it up and carry it. None satisfactory.

I wanted a quick fix to extend the handle and this is what I came up with, using some left over 22mm copper pipe and jubilee clips. Not pretty but quick, firmly attached and effective, it is now easy to move.

Mov


----------



## robgul

Jonm said:


> My small compressor has wheels and a handle which is too low. To move it you can stoop down and get a crick in your back, lift it up so the handle is at a convenient height and it then the compressor tips over backwards or pick it up and carry it. None satisfactory.
> 
> I wanted a quick fix to extend the handle and this is what I came up with, using some left over 22mm copper pipe and jubilee clips. Not pretty but quick, firmly attached and effective, it is now easy to move.
> 
> MovView attachment 109506



Copper pipe in 15 and 22mm is very useful for making all sorts of stuff with elbow and tee fittings- a cafe near here has coat-hooks made from 15mm and even a stand in the WC to hold the spare toilet rolls - and in the same alternate use scheme of things he has lots of shelving made from (probably) 22mm studding, nuts, washers and scaffold boards - likewise Kee-clamp fittings and scaffold tube offer loads of scope for "industrial decor" items


----------



## marcros

PaulArthur said:


> A friend of mine is going through a bit of a tough time as his wife has the big C, and he has to spend a lot of his time looking after her and their three kids.
> 
> When he gets some alone time, he sits in his office listening to his vinyl collection and needs some way of displaying and storing his collection, so as a little gift to try to cheer him up a little, I made him this nice little box for storing it.
> 
> I didn’t take any pictures of it, but there’s red suede on the bottom.
> 
> View attachment 109492
> View attachment 109493
> View attachment 109494



lovely work. where did you get your makers mark/logo from?


----------



## Jameshow

Nelly111s said:


> I've finished "designing" an Adirondack chair in Fusion 360, see render below. I've got a few sheets of the drawings left to finish, but I. could send these out as a pdf if required?View attachment 109477
> View attachment 109478
> View attachment 109479


Any chance of the rough dimensions of the front legs, base and arms? 

Looks like a nice project for my men's shed next week.

Cheers James


----------



## Nelly111s

Here's a pdf of the overall dimension - is this what you were after?

Neil


----------



## Jameshow

Excellent 

many thanks 

James


----------



## Nelly111s

paulrbarnard said:


> Would it be better to have a 45 degree slat on the transition from the seat to the front of the seat? That edge looks a little ‘sharp’ to be comfortable. When you are laid back that’s right where your legs will rub.


Paul,
The drawing is basically a copy of a chair I've made a few years ago. Never had any unnecessary chaffing so far!


----------



## PaulArthur

marcros said:


> lovely work. where did you get your makers mark/logo from?


Thank you - Von Hanke on Etsy, He does coins of all sorts, and branding irons too. Very quick and excellent quality. Not prohibitively expensive either. They were for fun only, but my buddy wanted his on the front! He has more confidence in me than I do!


----------



## Jameshow

Nelly111s said:


> Here's a pdf of the overall dimension - is this what you were after?
> 
> Neil



Thanks again I've printed it off and estimate the following......

arms 24 
front Legs 20
back 32 
Base 32
slats 24

sound about right. 

my chaps will be amazed when I come with a plan!! 

cheers James


----------



## Whittling woody

1st time posting and just joined, some very clever people out there, here's a pic of my latest crestion


----------



## Paul t

DTR said:


> This is a bit of an experiment. Most forums I've been on have had a "Post pics of [something topical]" thread, but not this one. There's probably a good reason for that, but I'm going to stick my neck out anyway.
> 
> The idea is, quite simply, to post a photo of the last thing you made. It can be something quite insignificant, a component of something bigger, or a completed project. It can be something that's not thread-worthy on its own, or it can be something that already has a 9 page WIP thread in the Projects section, it really doesn't matter! It's just a bit of fun, but hopefully it will generate some discussion too.
> 
> So here's my offering to get the ball rolling. I could have posted a photo of a mug of tea, but that's hardly relevant. This is a replacement guide knob for SWMBO's Burgess bandsaw. Formally it was in the care of her Dad, who isn't the most mechanically minded, hence why it needed a bit of a spruce up before going back into service!


----------



## Paul t

Here is a near completed chess set that I am making. I made this entirely by hand. 180 hrs and counting.


----------



## Doug B

This mornings efforts an internal shaker style door for a cut down frame 2’ wide by 51” high.






Made from red wood & MR MDF with stub tenons reinforced with large dominos


----------



## Cabinetman

Doug B said:


> This mornings efforts an internal shaker style door for a cut down frame 2’ wide by 51” high.
> 
> View attachment 109577
> 
> 
> Made from red wood & MR MDF with stub tenons reinforced with large dominos
> 
> View attachment 109578


Very clean Doug


----------



## matkinitice

Pair of bar stools for our kitchen/lounge breakfast bar.

We moved into a new house in September. I told the wife don't worry I'll build some stools. Took a lot longer than planned due to other jobs and various other things on the go. I didn't officially start until well into the new year.

First time doing mitred mortice and tenons and there was a lot here. This was also my first time of making two of something, so having to make sure they matched and keeping the parts well labelled was a task in itself.

American White Oak - Danish Oil finish.

This was my first time doing upholstery too - my wife helped and we did a great job if I say so myself. Found a video online which made the result very professional as I was worried about this part. Felt like I learned loads during this build, made a few mistakes too but discovered the joy of cabinet scrapers as I had some nasty tearout when planing one of the legs due to the grain changing direction.

Overall super happy with the results - beats standing at the bar now and the guests that have used them so far think they're great.


----------



## jcassidy

V2 of my daughters built-in bed thing. V1 has an extra set of drawers and was too tall.

The drawers are from something IKEA, which was more trouble than it was worth. The runners have zero capacity for finessing so the install has to be perfect. What a pain. 

The rest is CLS and ply.
(I'm assured that these will be sufficient storage)
(and if not, she can keep her dresses and stuff in my wardrobe.)
(Along with all my wife's clothes which are already in my wardrobe.)
(I should probably build myself a new wardrobe somewhere inconvenient).

More importantly plenty of space for her books and random stuff 10 year old kids have.

Whilst I was at it, I filled in various holes in the plaster, ripped out the existing naff wardrobe /drawers combo, revarnished the floor, and repainted the walls.

The colours are not my choice. I do what I'm told...


----------



## kinverkid

jcassidy said:


> V2 of my daughters built-in bed thing. V1 has an extra set of drawers and was too tall.
> (I'm assured that these will be sufficient storage)
> (and if not, she can keep her dresses and stuff in my wardrobe.)
> (Along with all my wife's clothes which are already in my wardrobe.)
> (I should probably build myself a new wardrobe somewhere inconvenient).
> 
> More importantly plenty of space for her books and random stuff 10 year old kids have.
> 
> Whilst I was at it, I filled in various holes in the plaster, ripped out the existing naff wardrobe /drawers combo, revarnished the floor, and repainted the walls.
> 
> The colours are not my choice. I do what I'm told...


Very nice. As for saying sufficient storage though, I think that's a little like saying 'I have enough clamps'.


----------



## Jimmy69

julianf said:


> There's virtually no wood work in this one, but im still going to post it up.
> 
> View attachment 102482
> View attachment 102483
> View attachment 102485
> View attachment 102484
> 
> 
> Shipped this morning.


Buchla!


----------



## Jimmy69

Just had a 


Jimmy69 said:


> Buchla!


Just had a look through your previous posts and see that you're "the Beast"! Great website and products. One of the reasons I'm getting into woodworking is to do cases for Eurorack and studio equipment. I've been eyeing up Serge and Buchla DIY stuff too. Do you produce the circuit boards ? Tempted by a Easel but probably not the best buchla to start with. If you do cases I'd love to see them.


----------



## pulleyt

Before lockdown we'd started playing cribbage fairly regularly and mostly with four players. Most boards just have three lanes as traditionally four players would play in pairs but we like playing individually so I decided to make a couple of four lane boards using some left over maple and walnut from previous projects (working on the principle that if I'm making one, I may as well make two in case one goes wrong). I made a drilling template in 10mm HDPE which also provided the guide for a flush trim router bit for the shaping of the board. the lines are just drawn on after the drilling and final sanding before finishing with Osmo and a wax buffing.

Looking forward to when we can get together with the neighbours and play again


----------



## Cabinetman

Hi. That’s incredibly nice neat work, how did you draw the lines on/what with please. Obviously anything inky would follow the grain. Ian


----------



## kinverkid

They are great looking cribbage boards and like CM I would like to know how you made those, very neat, lines.


----------



## pulleyt

Cabinetman said:


> Hi. That’s incredibly nice neat work, how did you draw the lines on/what with please. Obviously anything inky would follow the grain. Ian


Thanks. 
At first I'd planned to transfer the lines using an inkjet printout on waxed paper but I wasn't happy with the result. So I placed a paper printout on the board and used the point of the bow compass to mark the corners/end points of the straight lanes and the centre point for the compass to draw the arcs and then joined the dots. The pin pricks are all covered by the ink line bar the one for the second bend, but I can live with that. The pen is the 0.8 pen from a UniPin fineline drawing set. With the maple sanded to 180 grit it didn't bleed or deviate with the grain. I tried a test with the Osmo finish and it didn't smudge so the only down side will be if it isn't as 'fade proof' as it claims.


----------



## Cabinetman

Handy to know about thanks. Ian


----------



## D_W

First chisels in partly bright metal. Made from mostly old wood files (the wide one is made from a bastage file for metal - sometimes those are more complex alloys that don't turn out as well as the wood files of the same brand). Aesthetically, I think they still look freehand made (which they are, no jigs or anything, just hammered, filed/ground, heat treated, and then bevels ground and cleaned up freehand) with oxide left on them. "real" english chisels would be crossed up near the tang (glazed across with a finer wheel to remove the oxide, but I don't have any such setup).


----------



## TRITON

What do you do for tempering/hardening the blades Dave ?. Is it just gentle grinding or do you heat them up ?. Theres a bloke on another forum im on has been making knives of recent, and he's been experimenting for that sort of thing(not that I understand it, not wood is it  )

I dont think he'll mind me posting a pic.
He's doing me a steak knife for cutting up my dinner, but I dont feel I can press him on it as its a freebie for some nice timbers I've sent him for the handles.


NOTE - THIS ISN'T MY WORK.


----------



## D_W

I harden (by heating) in a forge, quench in an oil called parks50 for most things and then temper in a toaster oven in a "metal sandwich" with an oven thermometer on the shielded metal sandwich. 

The first part of shaping is hot hammering (on an anvil).


----------



## Orraloon

pulleyt said:


> Before lockdown we'd started playing cribbage fairly regularly and mostly with four players. Most boards just have three lanes as traditionally four players would play in pairs but we like playing individually so I decided to make a couple of four lane boards using some left over maple and walnut from previous projects (working on the principle that if I'm making one, I may as well make two in case one goes wrong). I made a drilling template in 10mm HDPE which also provided the guide for a flush trim router bit for the shaping of the board. the lines are just drawn on after the drilling and final sanding before finishing with Osmo and a wax buffing.
> 
> Looking forward to when we can get together with the neighbours and play again
> 
> View attachment 109736


Those are nice. I made a 4 row similar to that a few years ago. I found a printout template on line and marked the hole positions with an awl. Had to do the drilling in stages as it was a real strain on the eyes. Mine just has a small recess for the pins. The card drawer in your's really is a nice extra.
Regards
John


----------



## Gavlar

A couple of table lamps, upcycled from a pair of London pattern piano legs. I had to turn a couple of new parts. The hexagonal sections were re-veneered in walnut, then the whole thing bored out on the lathe, wax polished and fitted with a new base (the one on the left is iroko, the other mahogany).


----------



## D_W

TRITON said:


> What do you do for tempering/hardening the blades Dave ?. Is it just gentle grinding or do you heat them up ?. Theres a bloke on another forum im on has been making knives of recent, and he's been experimenting for that sort of thing(not that I understand it, not wood is it  )
> 
> I dont think he'll mind me posting a pic.
> He's doing me a steak knife for cutting up my dinner, but I dont feel I can press him on it as its a freebie for some nice timbers I've sent him for the handles.
> 
> 
> NOTE - THIS ISN'T MY WORK.View attachment 109784



That's a nice knife, by the way. The level of entry for really clean knives is pretty high because there are so many makers. I have made knives, but more of the japanese style without bolster because that's what a guy with a grinder will do to avoid the grinding near the tang there (with the groove in the bottom). I don't have a setup to do that cleanly on a hardened knife.

The biggest gain with custom makers, in my opinion, is the ability to get a knife with a reasonably thin longer flat grind that's well finished and on a knife hard enough to hold a honed edge rather than be lower carbon with the intent to be steeled.

Stock removal method is probably more common on knives than custom chisels (I like to hammer mine to initial shape - they need to be annealed, anyway, and it gives me a chance to thermal cycle the steel without extra steps (which is heating in descending temperatures - something I need to practice, but that probably isn't getting much gain). Then, the chisels are (they're not really annealed from a metallurgical sense, but the temper is heated out to them and they air cool) soft enough to file and grind and then I reharden them - that gives me control over the hardness on the blade while leaving the tang less hardened so that someone getting rough first notices they may get a slight bend and knock off the behavior - files are notoriously hard and brittle and even when they're just ground and tempered back a little, they can end up being more brittle than expected.

commercial heat treat of a specific alloy would be more predictable, but I haven't settled into bar stock to use instead of files yet (will do shortly), and I hope to never have to use commercial heat treat as I think this stuff can be done well in a forge, as well as mediocre or short cycle commercial heat treat.

the mule below is a test knife that I made out of stock thought to be the same as V11 (admittedly, it's just laying in my shop covered with filth now). V11 has to be heated to a higher temperature and at the time, I didn't want to lengthen my forge to make big knife, but I may now in the future. It's hard (chisel hardness, definitely over 60), very thin and blindingly sharp aided by that thinness. It takes time to make knives because of the steps doing surface finish, and It's kind of a pain, so the shine mostly wore off - chisels being more of a draw for me.


----------



## Seaside Donkey

Recently bought a bandsaw so now I'm able to resaw to suitable dims I had a go at a Paul Sellers desk organiser.











Box is American White Oak with a Zebrano lid and drawer pull. Not varnished yet so not really finished but I've now got a massive dose of CBA after faffing with the hinges for over an hour.

I've done three (I think) boxes in AWO now and as a relative beginner found it difficult to work. It's flipping hard for one thing but I also keep getting caught out with the grain direction. And on that note, I absolutely butchered that Zebrano - just couldn't figure out which way the grain was running. Took a great lump out of it which is why the lid only just covers the top of the box - it was supposed to overhang on all sides and have a fielded section on the underside for the hinges.

Any recommendations for a more forgiving hardwood for my next project?


----------



## Droogs

@Seaside Donkey Hate to break it to ya kiddo, but that isn't a bandsaw even if you stick it in front of a plug socket. It's what we call a plane. But hey you'll know better next time.


Very nice box by the way


----------



## paulrbarnard

Seaside Donkey said:


> Recently bought a bandsaw so now I'm able to resaw to suitable dims I had a go at a Paul Sellers desk organiser.
> 
> View attachment 109828
> 
> 
> View attachment 109829
> 
> 
> Box is American White Oak with a Zebrano lid and drawer pull. Not varnished yet so not really finished but I've now got a massive dose of CBA after faffing with the hinges for over an hour.
> 
> I've done three (I think) boxes in AWO now and as a relative beginner found it difficult to work. It's flipping hard for one thing but I also keep getting caught out with the grain direction. And on that note, I absolutely butchered that Zebrano - just couldn't figure out which way the grain was running. Took a great lump out of it which is why the lid only just covers the top of the box - it was supposed to overhang on all sides and have a fielded section on the underside for the hinges.
> 
> Any recommendations for a more forgiving hardwood for my next project?


I made the very same box just before Christmas. Post a photo of the last thing you made 
I used cherry for the case, maple for the pull and pine for the drawer bottom and shelf. I didn’t have benefit of a bandsaw though


----------



## gcusick

Jameshow said:


> Thanks again I've printed it off and estimate the following......
> 
> arms 24
> front Legs 20
> back 32
> Base 32
> slats 24
> 
> sound about right.
> 
> my chaps will be amazed when I come with a plan!!
> 
> cheers James


Looks to me that there will have to be a tie-break between back and base, if they’re also tied on passes.

i’ll get my coat.


----------



## NickVanBeest

Made a small chest as a present for a friend...






Dimensions are 20 x 15 and 16.5 high (base 10, lid 6.5) - all in centimetres

Was mainly done to test the accuracy of the angle settings on the Bosch track saw, and in the end I created a guide from a piece of 2x4, with one end cut at 10°, and the other at 20°, and used that to swivel the saw to the correct angle, by putting the base on the block, plunging down and tilting, and fastening the knobs. Worked out well in the end 

Made from 10mm thick oak, finished with boiled oil


----------



## PaulArthur

Seaside Donkey said:


> Any recommendations for a more forgiving hardwood for my next project?



Zebrano is an absolute pig. Every time I've used it, I give up on planing a finish as the grain alternates directions. I end up sanding with every grit I have and it comes up nice in the end - although it stinks of wet dog!

I've used ash and American black walnut for solid boxes and they both work very nicely under a sharp plane. Beech too, possibly, although it isn't as dimensionally stable over time apparently (mine are both still like new though six months later), although I've sometimes had to deal with a bit of tear out I wasn't expecting.


----------



## starlingwood

Ash workbench with Ply/MDF/Valchromat worktop 2440 x 1220mm. Shelf is for a table saw that will be integrated. Vice and router to be built in too, probably bench dog holes later on. Also, castors too at ends of the four main legs, they will be temporary fixed ones, have a rough idea of how I will do them. Really pleased how this came out.


----------



## TRITON

PaulArthur said:


> it stinks of wet dog!


You should try Afrormosia. Smells like poo. It is not pleasant and splinters go septic immediately..


----------



## robgul

I


starlingwood said:


> View attachment 109891
> 
> View attachment 109892
> 
> View attachment 109893
> 
> 
> Ash workbench with Ply/MDF/Valchromat worktop 2440 x 1220mm. Shelf is for a table saw that will be integrated. Vice and router to be built in too, probably bench dog holes later on. Also, castors too at ends of the four main legs, they will be temporary fixed ones, have a rough idea of how I will do them. Really pleased how this came out.



Looks like you have a red Ocado bin for storage! . . . I designed my shed racking around eight of them   
Love the bench, too good to work at.


----------



## NickDReed

Finally got my chakras aligned, all is right with the world. This must be what they mean by "zen". After years of digging through a plastic tub for a drill bit I got round to this. 

Not as nice as all the boxes uploaded recently, but I'm now at one with the existence and nothing is impossible!!! 

For now.


----------



## Adam W.

That's shockingly tidy.


----------



## starlingwood

robgul said:


> I
> 
> 
> Looks like you have a red Ocado bin for storage! . . . I designed my shed racking around eight of them
> Love the bench, too good to work at.



Ha yes indeed, we were stuck in traffic once so the driver left the shopping under the porch along with about 5 or 6 of the crates! They are very sturdy and have come in good use over the years. In fact I might need to miss our slot again soon with all the offcuts im creating.


----------



## NickDReed

Adam W. said:


> That's shockingly tidy.



It won't last! 

It never does!


----------



## danst96

PaulArthur said:


> Zebrano is an absolute pig. Every time I've used it, I give up on planing a finish as the grain alternates directions. I end up sanding with every grit I have and it comes up nice in the end - although it stinks of wet dog!
> 
> I've used ash and American black walnut for solid boxes and they both work very nicely under a sharp plane. Beech too, possibly, although it isn't as dimensionally stable over time apparently (mine are both still like new though six months later), although I've sometimes had to deal with a bit of tear out I wasn't expecting.
> 
> View attachment 109853
> View attachment 109854
> View attachment 109855
> View attachment 109856


that walnut


----------



## robgul

starlingwood said:


> Ha yes indeed, we were stuck in traffic once so the driver left the shopping under the porch along with about 5 or 6 of the crates! They are very sturdy and have come in good use over the years. In fact I might need to miss our slot again soon with all the offcuts im creating.


I believe that Ocado also uses green crates in some areas (may be for the tie up I think they have with Morrisons) - a couple of those would set off my storage nicely


----------



## mikej460

I bought 6 Asda blue bins from a guy on Facebook for £6 each delivered. They're very useful.


----------



## Garden Shed Projects

starlingwood said:


> View attachment 109891
> 
> View attachment 109892
> 
> View attachment 109893
> 
> 
> Ash workbench with Ply/MDF/Valchromat worktop 2440 x 1220mm. Shelf is for a table saw that will be integrated. Vice and router to be built in too, probably bench dog holes later on. Also, castors too at ends of the four main legs, they will be temporary fixed ones, have a rough idea of how I will do them. Really pleased how this came out.


I love your bench. I can only dream of the space.


----------



## PaulArthur

danst96 said:


> that walnut


I sat on that piece for months when I saw it on the end of a board I was using for something else. It is gorgeous.


----------



## Jameshow

I have Summerfeld and Safeway crates I picked up from a co-op, the guy say sure take them. Don't know how they obtained them. 


Cheers James


----------



## Seaside Donkey

PaulArthur said:


> I've used ash and American black walnut for solid boxes and they both work very nicely under a sharp plane. Beech too, possibly, although it isn't as dimensionally stable over time apparently (mine are both still like new though six months later), although I've sometimes had to deal with a bit of tear out I wasn't expecting.



That Black Walnut chest is beautiful. Lovely work.


----------



## danish

I've played around with plywood patterns. It's great fun. Started with this bench/shoerack, then the front of this chest of drawers, and now, for my daughters birthday this tray that is supposed to be used for her obsession with eating sunflower seeds






The devider slides back and forth or can be left at the side. The idea is that she can have the shells of the sunflower seeds on one side, and the actual seeds on the other side. 





The pattern is made from 12mm birth plywood cut into 60° sticks





And glued 3 of them together into these sticks





Left them with elastics overnight





I sliced them 





And glued them togher in a pattern. I did make a few mistakes there, but it's mindboggling boring to put those together, and it was late at night 






The sides are made from some oak left over from my daybed project that I angled by taking of ~20° from the side.





The devider is hanging of a brass rod that I had left over from the bench project linked above





I added OSMO 3032 and voila!

It's her birthday the 14th - she is a total teenager, so I wonder how she would feel about this rather than the latest iphone


----------



## danst96

Very nice patterned ply Danish! Im currently working on a bar cart with patterned ply bottomed trays, although slightly simpler design. Will have American Black Walnut sides and legs, heres some progress.

Question for you, how do get it nice and flat through the various stages? I had an absolute pig of leveling 2 of these off as each cut was slightly different thickness. Maybe i need to improve my table saw skills.


----------



## danish

danst96 said:


> Very nice patterned ply Danish! Im currently working on a bar cart with patterned ply bottomed trays, although slightly simpler design. Will have American Black Walnut sides and legs, heres some progress.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 109951


that looks extremely neat though - it's a bit of the same herringbone pattern I did here and here, though yours look much cleaner. @PaulArthur did an awesome job at his bench as well with a similar pattern. 



danst96 said:


> Question for you, how do get it nice and flat through the various stages? I had an absolute pig of leveling 2 of these off as each cut was slightly different thickness. Maybe i need to improve my table saw skills.


For this project I just did it over with the random orbital sander. I think yours look much 'flatter' than anything I've ever done though


----------



## danst96

danish said:


> that looks extremely neat though - it's a bit of the same herringbone pattern I did here and here, though yours look much cleaner. @PaulArthur did an awesome job at his bench as well with a similar pattern.
> 
> 
> For this project I just did it over with the random orbital sander. I think yours look much 'flatter' than anything I've ever done though



Yours looks great and thought it was better than mine haha.

I burnt out my belt sander getting a flat surface and then used a plane. It was more the stage before the image although I dont have a picture of it, almost every strip was a different height after I glued it all together, i had to remove a ton of material. This is a better picture of the outcome






I learnt the lesson on the first one and pre flattened on the first glue up stage before the second cut and glue up. Not sure if using a plane on ply like that is a good idea or not but it worked:


----------



## D_W

no problem on using the plane. The glue is often a little abrasive, but it isn't abusive to the blade other than abrading some off more quickly. FAR better than hitting staples and nails, which leave a notch that's got damage somewhat deeper than the depth of the notch. 

Don't tell anyone, but you can also use "normal" handsaws on plywood if you're willing to resharpen them. 

Both also work on corian, though you'd not want to flatten a large surface on corian (great for trimming and cleanup where power tools might be risky - if you're incompetent with power tools like I am).


----------



## D_W

by the way, the pattern looks just wonderful - very pleasing.


----------



## danish

on this one I actually ended up using an angle grinder to thin it down to the ~15mm I was looking for. And then about 18h of sanding after


----------



## PaulArthur

Another cracker, @danish


----------



## Mick p

Made with all materials from skips my brother has a skip hire business but we did drink the gin so all recycled including screws and varnish


----------



## akirk

latest projects...
jenga set - large - made from hardwood...
in the foreground, laminating wood to make a paddle with my godson...


----------



## rafezetter

Jacob said:


> I don't agree about natural talent - it's more about opportunities and inspiration given, if you are lucky.
> There's no known way to discover talent instantly though plenty have been tried. But the slow way works - invest more in education, provide more opportunities and so on.
> Education is supposed develop learning skills, encourage interest, open doors to new opportunities - it's not just about remembering a load of stuff!



Just offtopic for a second, nice theory Jacob, now if you can just convince the people who insist on throwing as much muck at children in the hopes some of it will stick (including muck like calculus, or the history of the Roman Empire or any number of other topics that have no bearing on actual life), to STOP doing that and STOP making parents beleive that poor SAT scores means thier children is somehow "lacking" and their children's life will be the poorer for it.

There's a reason why there are some private schools that use a different education system, almost like the one Cabinetman suggests and I wholeheartedly agree with. Most children by thier early teens usually have a pretty good idea of what really gets thier interest, so why do we INSIST on another four years of "general nonsense", rather than giving them the opportunity to focus in that area that much earlier, and sometimes actually DRIVING OUT that initial spark, by telling them they SHOULD NOT focus on a particular topic to the detriment of others.

Children now are lab rats, subjected to the schools desire for better performance reviews, and only "good grades" matters, those that struggle academically get left behind.


----------



## Jacob

rafezetter said:


> Just offtopic for a second, nice theory Jacob, now if you can just convince the people who insist on throwing as much muck at children in the hopes some of it will stick (including muck like calculus, or the history of the Roman Empire or any number of other topics that have no bearing on actual life), to STOP doing that and STOP making parents beleive that poor SAT scores means thier children is somehow "lacking" and their children's life will be the poorer for it.
> 
> There's a reason why there are some private schools that use a different education system, almost like the one Cabinetman suggests and I wholeheartedly agree with. Most children by thier early teens usually have a pretty good idea of what really gets thier interest, so why do we INSIST on another four years of "general nonsense", rather than giving them the opportunity to focus in that area that much earlier, and sometimes actually DRIVING OUT that initial spark, by telling them they SHOULD NOT focus on a particular topic to the detriment of others.
> 
> Children now are lab rats, subjected to the schools desire for better performance reviews, and only "good grades" matters, those that struggle academically get left behind.


The answer is lack of resources. They don't throw enough muck and they can't do it selectively. 
At the top end schools like Eton have massive investment in training for music and the arts for instance. They have a large fully operational theatre and also concert rooms. This is why there are so many posh people on the stage and in the arts. 
If you train people up they get good at it. If you cram education, backed up with every possible privilege and opportunity, you can get total morons as prime ministers!


----------



## J-G

rafezetter said:


> including muck like calculus, or the history of the Roman Empire or any number of other topics that have no bearing on actual life


I note that you 'don't care' but that statement can't go unchallenged - it is so wrong in so many ways!

You may not need to use the Calculus (or care about how the Romans influenced democracy) but there are vast swathes of people who do and without their knowledge scientific progress would be much retarded.


----------



## danst96

In my opinion, the point of the education system is to learn how to learn. Yes we get taught some stuff we consider useless but what we don't realise (particularly at the time) is we are subconsciously learning how to learn which is possibly the most important life skill. Some schools do this better than others. I was privelaged to go to a private school and the ethos was to learn how to learn but when you stop and think about it, all education is just that, just executed better in some ways.

The issues we have today is we have kids who don't want to learn (not all, but quite a large proportion it would appear) and it's easier to Google an answer to anything.

Ultimately life is one non-stop lesson when you stop and think about it. If you keep an open mind and broad outlook, you learn something every single day.


----------



## Jacob

rafezetter said:


> .... Most children by thier early teens usually have a pretty good idea of what really gets thier interest, .......


To be honest what really got my interest in early teens was beer, cigarettes and girls. I never thought to make a career of it! Too late now.


----------



## danst96

danst96 said:


> In my opinion, the point of the education system is to learn how to learn. Yes we get taught some stuff we consider useless but what we don't realise (particularly at the time) is we are subconsciously learning how to learn which is possibly the most important life skill. Some schools do this better than others. I was privelaged to go to a private school and the ethos was to learn how to learn but when you stop and think about it, all education is just that, just executed better in some ways.
> 
> The issues we have today is we have kids who don't want to learn (not all, but quite a large proportion it would appear) and it's easier to Google an answer to anything.
> 
> Ultimately life is one non-stop lesson when you stop and think about it. If you keep an open mind and broad outlook, you learn something every single day.


To add to this.

I relearnt today to measure twice and cut once. Obviously didn't listen in the first lesson, completely stuffed up a very large display unit I'm building


----------



## mikej460

Jacob said:


> To be honest what really got my interest in early teens was beer, cigarettes and girls. I never thought to make a career of it! Too late now.


If you had made a career out of girls, cigarettes and beer you probably wouldn't be here now


----------



## jcassidy

mikej460 said:


> If you had made a career out of girls, cigarettes and beer you probably wouldn't be here now



You'd probably be a filthy rich politician or a p**s poor tabloid journalist.


----------



## Droogs

mikej460 said:


> If you had made a career out of girls, cigarettes and beer you probably wouldn't be here now


Dunno, Ronnie Wood seems to have managed it


----------



## Fitzroy

Six years ago I built one of my first woodwork projects. A garden table and bench from some reclaimed oak. They both got the ‘flintstone’ treatment, no idea how strong wood is so make it ridiculously thick!

The table has lived outside since and has weathered rather well. However, the bench came into the kitchen shortly afterwards for party seating and never left. The bench was functional, that’s about the only positive I can say. The huge dovetails were a disaster and fit so bad I had to drive little wedges in so the didn’t wobble too bad, they were obviously unglueable due to huge gaps.









A few weeks back I caught my leg on one of these wedges again, and I’d had enough. I took the beast out to the workshop for some repurposing. The tops were taken off, resawn, and glued up into a new wider top. Octagonal tapered legs, and a big bevel gave it the form I had in mind. It was great to have the skills now to build the bench I really wanted to make back then!

Fitz


----------



## Orraloon

A nice makeover.
Good to see the thread back on woodwork too!
Regards
John


----------



## MarkDennehy

Wanted to make some fancy pens, so did some simple ones for practice first:
















Those are my second, third and fourth ever pens, in that order, they're just normal 7mm slimline pen kits that came in the axminster beginners kit with the mandrel. First one is a segmented blank I made from oak, walnut, some ebony veneer scraps that were in the offcut box, second is padouk and third is an acrylic blank (the Royal Courtship one from Chestnut). I made a litle keyring with the offcut from the last one as an experiment because I got some fancy pen blanks from Feinesholz for the fancy pens and at about a euro per centimeter, I didn't like the idea of discarding any offcuts 






First of the fancy pens was actually a pencil, finished that today. Stabilised Karelian birch (stabilised with blue plexiglass hence the colour), finished with micromesh, yorkshire grit and microfine, two coats of melamine from a spraycan, and a single coat of microcrystalline wax.
















Looks nicer in the sunshine  Feels good in the hand, already been using it for sketching some ideas, it's quite nice to use.

Next three will be Alpha pen kits from Taylors Mirfield and built as fountain pens, but I need to switch over to a German or French supplier for the next fancy pens - I've been bitten rather badly by VAT/customs/duty fun and games on the last few imports from the UK. A cheap beginners bowl gouge bought on sale from Rutlands so I could try a bottom feeder grind wound up costing as much as a Glenn Lucas gouge sharpened by Glenn himself would have cost me by the time it was all done and the japanese marking knife that was in the box with it when it set out went walkies along the way and I still don't know if it's rattling round the bottom of a UPS van somewhere or if it was confiscated by Customs as a very short katana  Taylors Mirfield only have one reseller here and they don't carry the Alpha kits


----------



## Garden Shed Projects

Fitzroy said:


> Six years ago I built one of my first woodwork projects. A garden table and bench from some reclaimed oak. They both got the ‘flintstone’ treatment, no idea how strong wood is so make it ridiculously thick!
> 
> The table has lived outside since and has weathered rather well. However, the bench came into the kitchen shortly afterwards for party seating and never left. The bench was functional, that’s about the only positive I can say. The huge dovetails were a disaster and fit so bad I had to drive little wedges in so the didn’t wobble too bad, they were obviously unglueable due to huge gaps.
> View attachment 110107
> 
> View attachment 110106
> 
> 
> A few weeks back I caught my leg on one of these wedges again, and I’d had enough. I took the beast out to the workshop for some repurposing. The tops were taken off, resawn, and glued up into a new wider top. Octagonal tapered legs, and a big bevel gave it the form I had in mind. It was great to have the skills now to build the bench I really wanted to make back then!
> 
> Fitz
> View attachment 110108
> 
> View attachment 110109
> 
> View attachment 110110
> 
> View attachment 110111


Looks really smart. That’s what I like about wood, you take the surface off and it brand new again


----------



## Skydivermel

Here's the last thing I made. Yesterday.


----------



## Doug B

Skydivermel said:


> Here's the last thing I made. Yesterday.


Dunno why but your attachments won’t open for me


----------



## gregmcateer

They're both beautiful. What wood is the Byron?

P.S. Doug, they are little video clips. If you're on an apple device, they may not work


----------



## Jameshow

Fitzroy said:


> Six years ago I built one of my first woodwork projects. A garden table and bench from some reclaimed oak. They both got the ‘flintstone’ treatment, no idea how strong wood is so make it ridiculously thick!
> 
> The table has lived outside since and has weathered rather well. However, the bench came into the kitchen shortly afterwards for party seating and never left. The bench was functional, that’s about the only positive I can say. The huge dovetails were a disaster and fit so bad I had to drive little wedges in so the didn’t wobble too bad, they were obviously unglueable due to huge gaps.
> View attachment 110107
> 
> View attachment 110106
> 
> 
> A few weeks back I caught my leg on one of these wedges again, and I’d had enough. I took the beast out to the workshop for some repurposing. The tops were taken off, resawn, and glued up into a new wider top. Octagonal tapered legs, and a big bevel gave it the form I had in mind. It was great to have the skills now to build the bench I really wanted to make back then!
> 
> 
> 
> Fitz
> View attachment 110108
> 
> View attachment 110109
> 
> View attachment 110110
> 
> View attachment 110111



Nice when you can see improvement in skills over time well done! 

Cheers James


----------



## Skydivermel

gregmcateer said:


> They're both beautiful. What wood is the Byron?
> 
> The Byron is Purple Heart.


----------



## Jonm

A relative has a much loved chinese cabinet which they wanted converting to a chest of drawers. Here is picture of the cabinet, after the conversion was completed, which is the same as it looked before.







It is higly polished inside but was completely clear, no shelves or partitions. To minimise damage we built a box made from mdf, placed it inside the cabinet and fixed it to a cross member at the back with two small screws. Then trimmed around the front of the box to cover the gap between box and frame. Trim was pinned to the box so the only damage to the cabinet was the two small screws holding the box in place. Here is a picture of the box in place, filled pin holes yet to be painted, one of the screws visible at the back.





Drawers were made to measure by Probox and fitted in place with metal runners. Here is picture of finished job


----------



## Orraloon

Nicely done and easy to undo.
Regards
John


----------



## pidgeonpost

danst96 said:


> That is beautiful


I thought so to. Cock beading on the drawers? Can't quite see on my tiddly screen.


----------



## Jonm

gasman said:


> Kneehole writing desk in Brazilian mahogany with crotch mahogany veneered drawer fronts, drawers in olive ash, recycled brass handles and an inlaid blue leather skiver topView attachment 109059
> View attachment 109060


That is fabulous, way beyond what I can do.


----------



## Droogs

Very nicely done. For a fleeting moment, i thought we were going to see hacked up doors converted to sticky on drawer fronts


----------



## Cordy

Bird table, Oak and Walnut


----------



## kinverkid

Finished making an Adirondack chair from the plans posted here by Rob1693 20th April. Made from 1 1/4" reclaimed floorboards planed down to 25mm. The footstool is inspired from photographs when researching designs. They








will be primed and painted by my brother-in-law who will be the new owner of it.


----------



## Turnr77

Needed a new coat rack fairly quickly so used up the last bits of oak floorboards I had. Not fine joinery by any means, screwed and glued with screws hidden by square topped fumed oak dowels (in an attempt to look sort of Arts & Crafts?)
Didn't have enough left to make doors for cupboards the full width so had to add a rather wide centre rail, oak leaves from fumed oak just scrollsaw cut out and applied to surface. Knobs also turned from fumed oak.

Nick


----------



## Britman

Very simple table and benches with anti dog chewy steel banding.


----------



## pulleyt

This bedroom lampshade is the latest Kumiko noodling...






We recently replaced a venetian blind with wooden slats that I recycled into Kumiko strips. They do have a finish on them and i didn't sand them back as they are the ideal thickness for my table saw blade kerf. The Kumiko panels are held together by the snugness of the half lap joints alone (the only glue being that fixing the paper backing). 

To keep the shade as light as possible I made the frame from 15mm square stock milled from some 2x4 CLS off cuts which I finished in a 'Walnut' tinted Osmo oil and then a 'Tudor Oak' coloured wax. 

As it is a lampshade it won't get close inspection so the staining will be good enough, but I'm not a great fan of staining cheap softwood. But I'm happy with the result from what was just scrap materials.


----------



## Workshop Ronnie

Today I completed an outdoor bench seat for my wife. It's made from English oak and finished with tung oil. It measures 1.85m long (determined by the length of my clamps), 95cm tall with a seat depth of 50cm. I cut the letters using the scroll saw that I bought recently from fellow member "timber". The seat slats are attached to the seat rails using dominos. The horizontal rails are attached to the legs using twin tenons. For the seat rails I had to use a strong joint so I used interlocking twin tenons, borrowing a design devised by Peter Bishop.


----------



## Droogs

pulleyt said:


> This bedroom lampshade is the latest Kumiko noodling...
> 
> View attachment 110662
> 
> 
> We recently replaced a venetian blind with wooden slats that I recycled into Kumiko strips. They do have a finish on them and i didn't sand them back as they are the ideal thickness for my table saw blade kerf. The Kumiko panels are held together by the snugness of the half lap joints alone (the only glue being that fixing the paper backing).
> 
> To keep the shade as light as possible I made the frame from 15mm square stock milled from some 2x4 CLS off cuts which I finished in a 'Walnut' tinted Osmo oil and then a 'Tudor Oak' coloured wax.
> 
> As it is a lampshade it won't get close inspection so the staining will be good enough, but I'm not a great fan of staining cheap softwood. But I'm happy with the result from what was just scrap materials.


Ho fun a thing to do


----------



## Chunkytfg

Had an abundance of Plywood offcuts and a Mitre saw that was on an old Axminster stand that wobbled like crazy and didn't wheel around like it was supposed to so I knocked up a simple wheeled stand with fold up/down wings for longer material cuts.

Wing supports have coach bolts in threaded inserts so are adjustable for level.

Please excuse the state of my workshop. its most definitely a work in progress with too much stuff and not enough space.


----------



## farlsborough

Designed this on SketchUp. Learnt some hard lessons - don’t fix sheet materials to a roof you’re planning to lift yourself, and don’t cut your roof felt to size before laying it. But still, this was my first go at framing, and biggest project to date, so I’m pretty proud of it.


----------



## Popey

Here’s a little oak end table that I finished recently.


----------



## sirocosm

Not the last but perhaps the first. That was before I had a thickness planer, and I had to use a hand plane to join and flatten the shelves. Never did manage to find catches that I liked for the doors.


----------



## sirocosm

Just finished a temporary greenhouse, made almost entirely out of leftover materials, some fence panels and some leftover wood from concrete forms used to pour my workshop foundation.


----------



## akirk

playing with the lathe, replacement croquet stick, hardwood, turned, painted, waxed, varnished...


----------



## marcros

Fitzroy said:


> Six years ago I built one of my first woodwork projects. A garden table and bench from some reclaimed oak. They both got the ‘flintstone’ treatment, no idea how strong wood is so make it ridiculously thick!
> 
> The table has lived outside since and has weathered rather well. However, the bench came into the kitchen shortly afterwards for party seating and never left. The bench was functional, that’s about the only positive I can say. The huge dovetails were a disaster and fit so bad I had to drive little wedges in so the didn’t wobble too bad, they were obviously unglueable due to huge gaps.
> View attachment 110107
> 
> View attachment 110106
> 
> 
> A few weeks back I caught my leg on one of these wedges again, and I’d had enough. I took the beast out to the workshop for some repurposing. The tops were taken off, resawn, and glued up into a new wider top. Octagonal tapered legs, and a big bevel gave it the form I had in mind. It was great to have the skills now to build the bench I really wanted to make back then!
> 
> Fitz
> View attachment 110108
> 
> View attachment 110109
> 
> View attachment 110110
> 
> View attachment 110111



I am late to the party on this, but I really like the remade bench. there are a lot of subtle details- the tapered octagonal legs and the bevelled edge to the top that I admire. well done indeed!


----------



## Dr Al

Some long bar clamps:











More info here (including whizzy interactive 3D model): CGTK - Bar Clamps

Build write-up here: CGTK - Bar Clamps Build Process


----------



## powertools

They look really good.


----------



## jcassidy

Dr Al said:


> Build write-up here: CGTK - Bar Clamps Build Process


Your site is inspiring, love the grooving planes and kerf saw. Two tools that I am going to shamelessly copy now.


----------



## thetyreman

powertools said:


> They look really good.



+1 I would go as far as saying I'd definitely buy some if they were available for sale.


----------



## Dr Al

powertools said:


> They look really good.





jcassidy said:


> Your site is inspiring, love the grooving planes and kerf saw. Two tools that I am going to shamelessly copy now.





thetyreman said:


> +1 I would go as far as saying I'd definitely buy some if they were available for sale.



Thanks all.


----------



## Jameshow

Today's project a camper kitchen unit. 

Basic plywood job.

Jigsaw cut out doors and drawers. Sink to left, cooker to right.

Will top it with 1" pine boards.

Cheers James


----------



## Cooper

akirk said:


> playing with the lathe, replacement croquet stick, hardwood, turned, painted, waxed, varnished...


Nice work. I notice in the background of one of your pictures the set of balls. I've recently turned a set of replacement balls from rescued Oak table legs. I'm not sure what to colour them with. If I use paint I fear it will chip off during the first game. I don't really want to buy loads of stain if most of it will sit at the back of a cupboard. Any thoughts?
Thanks
Martin


----------



## Simon89

Dr Al said:


> Some long bar clamps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More info here (including whizzy interactive 3D model): CGTK - Bar Clamps
> 
> Build write-up here: CGTK - Bar Clamps Build Process


Nice clamps 
How did you embed the 3D model into you website?


----------



## Dr Al

Simon89 said:


> Nice clamps
> How did you embed the 3D model into you website?



It uses a javascript library called jsc3d. It's fairly straightforward to use (as javascript libraries go). Other bits of the site (e.g. this one) use openjscad instead, but that requires the 3D model to be drawn in openjscad (which is useful for some things, but not when you're exporting from another CAD application).


----------



## Simon89

Dr Al said:


> It uses a javascript library called jsc3d. It's fairly straightforward to use (as javascript libraries go). Other bits of the site (e.g. this one) use openjscad instead, but that requires the 3D model to be drawn in openjscad (which is useful for some things, but not when you're exporting from another CAD application).


Thanks


----------



## Buckeye

Boot room bench for our house... keep the sawdust out of the kitchen when coming from the workshop!  Painted mdf and sapele seat.


----------



## Mick p

Just finished this one for our garden made from recycled oak flooring boards stainless steel mesh and screws all from skips at my brothers recycling yard .I showed one previously some asked how the seed came out the bottle cap was only in place for delivery as I put some seed in to start the buyers off without the cap gravity does its job


----------



## akirk

Cooper said:


> Nice work. I notice in the background of one of your pictures the set of balls. I've recently turned a set of replacement balls from rescued Oak table legs. I'm not sure what to colour them with. If I use paint I fear it will chip off during the first game. I don't really want to buy loads of stain if most of it will sit at the back of a cupboard. Any thoughts?
> Thanks
> Martin


those are the croquet balls that came with the set - so not sure how they did that...
I would imagine that painted and then varnished / lacquered might be okay -otherwise, stain could be the only option


----------



## flanajb

BEE13 said:


> Actually, it's not finished yet, the making process is going to go on for some time, but I've just returned to volunteering at the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard and we're building a full size working replica of a WW1 (very) fast torpedo boat known as a CMB (Coastal Motor Boat).
> 
> I've been involved since the start, helping with the lofting, building and setting out the moulds, the basic framework including steam bending and, now, planking.
> 
> This is a cutting edge 40' lightweight boat that was capable of 40 knots over 100 years ago (!) but our replica will have a more powerful engine but won't be carrying live torpedoes! The boatbuilding techniques are more akin to aircraft technology than traditional boatbuilding. It's a totally unique project and I count myself lucky to be involved,especially as I'm a retired Chartered Building Surveyor, not a professional boatbuilder! I'm really glad to be back to the project.



Building a boat would be on the bucket list if money and time were no object. Looks like a fascinating project to be involved with.


----------



## BEE13

flanajb said:


> Building a boat would be on the bucket list if money and time were no object. Looks like a fascinating project to be involved with.



Yes, it's amazing. Luckily, someone else is funding it. 

Although I've worked with wood quite a bit but I've never done boatbuilding. The first thing you discover is that nothing is straight! All sorts of curves and odd angles. It certainly tests the brain and woodworking skills. 

This design is cutting edge technology from over 100 years old but the completed craft will be one of the fastest things on the Solent. Amazing.


----------



## thetyreman

made a tray for pens and stuff.


----------



## Doug71

A couple of benches for the village Deli made from a piece of locally sourced Oak







No proper joinery involved, just a Zipbolt and Domino to hold the legs on 






Legs at the front and bracketed to the wall at the back to hopefully stop them walking as they are near the road. You can't tell from the photos but the legs splay forwards and to the side.











Customer thinks they look great and it's the easiest job I've had in ages, so everyone is happy 

Finished with acrylic external varnish, will be interesting to see how long that lasts!


----------



## Big Fish

Hi all. 
About a month ago bought a Tyme cub lathe, so have been building up a very small collection of chisels and gouges. Two weeks ago found a Rexon bandsaw on marketplace cheap. So Saturday turned a white oak swivel top salt pot from a seasoned log (firewood). Two coats of shellac and quite happy with the result. Only the 3rd thing turned so far but now I’ve made a sharpening jig out of ply for gouges will be doing more.


----------



## Mick p

Big Fish said:


> Hi all.
> About a month ago bought a Tyme cub lathe, so have been building up a very small collection of chisels and gouges. Two weeks ago found a Rexon bandsaw on marketplace cheap. So Saturday turned a white oak swivel top salt pot from a seasoned log (firewood). Two coats of shellac and quite happy with the result. Only the 3rd thing turned so far but now I’ve made a sharpening jig out of ply for gouges will be doing more.


I’ve had my cub for 8 years now it hasn’t missed a beat it dose every thing I want of it


----------



## bob543

Couple of guitars i made almost identical. Goncalo Alves back and sides and rarely figured cedar of lebanon tops.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Two pens, Beaufort Ink Leveche kits. One a Conway Stewart blank from The Turner's Workshop, the other from an offcut of burr oak with bronze powder filler.


----------



## Grantx

Router lifter. Looks rougher than a bears buttocks but everything is level and true.


----------



## Garden Shed Projects

Grantx said:


> Router lifter. Looks rougher than a bears buttocks but everything is level and true. View attachment 111338
> View attachment 111339
> View attachment 111340


What does the lifting? Can you forward a few photos of that side please?


----------



## Grantx

Garden Shed Projects said:


> What does the lifting? Can you forward a few photos of that side please?



M6 cap screw on the top. 
M10 Thread bar going through hex nut (whatever it's called) attached to the router clamp.


----------



## Garden Shed Projects

Grantx said:


> M6 cap screw on the top.
> M10 Thread bar going through hex nut (whatever it's called) attached to the router clamp.
> View attachment 111343
> View attachment 111344
> View attachment 111345
> View attachment 111346


I like it


----------



## Spectric

@Chrispy how did you make the dentils and assemble this please


----------



## Spectric

Hi @*nathandavies*

Had to find out what a Credenza was, but it is nice to see stuff made nice and solid out of real wood.


----------



## kinverkid

Finished this Murphy bar today. Made from reclaimed (assumed Sapele) window frame and sills for a friend. The one photograph is before I fitted the bottle opener but Dave the peacock was in full spread for the camera so I took the shot





.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Latest complete project - guitar pedal board for my brother’s 30th birthday.

Walnut frame - birch ply top with velcro covering - branded leather logo which is framed with snake wood - stainless steel jack socket surround I turned on the metal lathe, which is surrounded with a little bit of lignum vitae - and not my pedals


----------



## Rorton

finished a small jewellery box for the wife. Walnut with Oak accents, and lined with suede - first time doing anything like this, so quite pleased with the outcome


----------



## D_W

some more...you know....

sorry they're not woodworking. 

52100 chisels instead of recycled files, but still done freehand and shaped by hand and finished by hand. 

The chisels on the right have large bolsters because they're going to a professional planemaker in the US who wants to put octagonal beech handles on them. The ones on the left are for me, and and will just have turned handles with brass ferrules.


----------



## gregmcateer

akirk said:


> playing with the lathe, replacement croquet stick, hardwood, turned, painted, waxed, varnished...



Very nice, Mr K.
Don't let the Mrs see that you've stuck the stick into the sofa though!

Thinking about the colouring the balls, I would think any good bright paint would do, then good polyurethane varnish?
Might chip a bit, though that gives them patina and character


----------



## gregmcateer

kinverkid said:


> Finished this Murphy bar today. Made from reclaimed (assumed Sapele) window frame and sills for a friend.



Nice bar, KK. And love to see a peacock called Dave


----------



## Padster

Finished my router table, not as fancy as many on here but it will meet my needs I believe. It is to replace a trend crt? at least 10yrs old. Made next to my MFT and I wanted it to be able to be an extension of that if needed so you can take the fence and mitre out by just removing the cut outs I put in that are held in place with rare earth magnets and washers. Hopefully you get the gist from the photos.....


----------



## Ozzie36

Morning all, 
My first ‘proper’ piece of furniture. All Oak from rough sawn boards. Mortise and tenon joints throughout and my first shot at dovetails on the drawers. (Although, they are machine cut.) Pretty pleased for a first effort.


----------



## NewbieRaf

Morning All

Yesterday I finally finished this patio set. Very simple all done with 2 x 4 cls and screws.


----------



## johnjuli726

This is very informative for me


----------



## Cooper

Left and right double barley twist candle sticks, at last I've managed to get a pair reasonably similar!! Photographed in the garden as its such a nice day!!
Made from rescued Bay log from a tree surgeon working in a nearby street. I left the log and it developed a handy radial split, which released all the tension as it dried and made it easy to split.


----------



## starlingwood

Evening, latest commission for Mrs Starlingwood. Shoe rack made out of ash, half lap joints and through tenons finished in Osmo polyx. Fiddly little job but pleased with final result considering, some of the joints could be tighter. Nice to be making stuff now my workbench is built.


----------



## DennisCA

Fitted this axe handle a while ago





Made the shaft from birch (traditional material, it's nice, it's why the axes are collared, birch is not strong enough otherwise)


----------



## Just4Fun

I have never tried making an axe handle. It has always struck me as something that getting a handle that is nice to use is probably a lot more involved than it looks.

I know a couple of people who do make their own axe handles but they both use an electric grinder to "carve" the shape. I'm glad to see that you seem to have used more traditional methods.


----------



## DennisCA

Thanks, I bandsaw the rough shape out of a birch plank, then I shape the rest with a small one handed axe, then a knife and spokeshave. Finally I sand it and apply a layer of shellac. 
Yes shellac, I prefer it over oil on my axe handles. I think it works excellently, protects against dirt better, looks better with time, feels better in my hands. Just don't polish the finish so it gets slippery, want it just right. It helps that I stop at 80 grits or so with sand paper.


----------



## thetyreman

made a little oak profiling tool, custom made because I need it to get behind some taps on a bath for a re-silicone job, I will try it out tomorrow, it was a good test of skills, done using a chisel only for the shaping.


----------



## Adam W.

Managed to get a 1.5mm thick stucco cast out of the mould in one piece after a few attempts.






I was so happy that I made some Pims, drank too much and now I've got a banging headache.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Drink more. You obviously haven't drunk enough.


----------



## Cooper

Adam W. said:


> I was so happy that I made some Pims, drank too much and now I've got a banging headache.



Adam, your posts remind me of the days I was head of D&T in Tulse Hill School (sadly, now a housing estate), which had been the junior department of the Brixton school of building. We still had all the trade workshops but the curriculum of the day decided that trades and skills were not valuable. I had the run of the plaster shop and was able to cast replacement frieze sections for our Victorian house, we were renovating. While I was at it, we had a visit from some old boys, who had gone on to become wood carvers in a firm of fibrus plasterers and made the patterns for them.


----------



## MarkDennehy

Had made a pen for mom, she also snarfled my pencil so I had to make a matching pencil to the pen to get mine back. Old age and cunning wins again...






(It's a bit fat because mom is starting to get arthritis in her fingers and the chunkiness helps)


----------



## stuckinthemud

Lightweight crossbow based on archaeological drawings of finds from Colletieres a Charavines, in France, dated to the 1040s


----------



## Ozi

Garden Shed Projects said:


> I like it


Well I am going to shamelessly copy that


----------



## thetyreman

finished these door handles, made out of ash + oak.


----------



## Farm Labourer

First of three solid oak bklanket boxes to store outside cushions in the front porch.


----------



## Cabinetman

Really like that FL, particularly like the feet and the proportions. Proper bit of workmanship. Ian


----------



## paulrbarnard

Farm Labourer said:


> First of three solid oak bklanket boxes to store outside cushions in the front porch.View attachment 112061
> View attachment 112062
> View attachment 112063
> View attachment 112061
> View attachment 112062
> View attachment 112063


For the porch 
Looks fantastic


----------



## Farm Labourer

PaulRB - the porch is small and isn't used to access the house, so it becomes a dumping ground. This is my strategy to tidy it!


----------



## --Tom--

Single bevel marking knife with a copper bolster attached with peined over pins, boxwood handle and carbon fibre pins. 







Textured front part of bolster and a nice visual illusion with the polished blade





Polishing the copper and sanding the carbon fibre pins without staining the box was more of a nuisance than I expected.

I have WIP photos if any interest


----------



## Fred48

Hi Tom
Great work. I would love to see the WIP photos please
Fred


----------



## Hallelujahal

Hi I’m new here and very much a newbie at working with wood, but the onset of grandchildren and lockdown have motivated me to make the kids some toys. They’re not very good, but made with love! Here’s my latest addition to the stable


----------



## Adam W.

Love it. 

Does it giddyup Buttercup ?


----------



## mikej460

Not sure his wife would appreciate you calling him that


----------



## ian33a

This has kept me busy for the past couple of months


----------



## Adam W.

Had some rabbit skin glue made up so decided to do a bit of work on my long term tool chest project. So first go at veneering with some red madrone Vavona burr on the till fronts.

Used the folded brass back of my saw as a veneer hammer.

It was a bit brittle, but it should look passable with some french polish.


----------



## bob543

Adam W. said:


> Had some rabbit skin glue made up so decided to do a bit of work on my long term tool chest project. So first go at veneering with some red madrone burr on the till fronts.
> 
> Used the folded brass back of my saw as a veneer hammer.
> 
> It was a bit brittle, but it should look passable with some french polish.
> 
> View attachment 112154


How did the rabbit glue do at the hammer veneering? I was putting brazilian rosewood veneer on an old wood case the other week but used pearl glue.Not done this kind of veneering before and found it quite difficult, Heres a photo of my 1/2 hour to make hammer.


----------



## rob1693

Wind sculpture made from recycled bits i had lying around. threaded 6mm rod copper pipe piece of wrought iron bar thats been laying round garden for last 10 year and some scooter wheels


----------



## Jamesc

Like the sculpture, very mesmerising to watch


----------



## Adam W.

bob543 said:


> How did the rabbit glue do at the hammer veneering? I was putting brazilian rosewood veneer on an old wood case the other week but used pearl glue.Not done this kind of veneering before and found it quite difficult, Heres a photo of my 1/2 hour to make hammer.


I thought it went OK, but tomorrow may well provide a different story.

I slathered it on quite liberally, rubbed it down with my hands and squeegeed it off with the back of my tenon saw.

There was a good Steve Latta video on youtube about it, but it's gone now. Which is a shame, as he's got a no nonsense approach.

Here it is: The Woodwright's Shop | Hammer Veneering with Steve Latta | Season 31 | Episode 10

I hope it stays on, as I think it's going to look pretty wild when it's done.


----------



## mikej460

ian33a said:


> View attachment 112135
> 
> View attachment 112136
> 
> This has kept me busy for the past couple of months


This looks great. Could you describe how you made it? Are then mft tops ready made or did you do them?


----------



## ian33a

mikej460 said:


> This looks great. Could you describe how you made it? Are then mft tops ready made or did you do them?



Hi Mike,

The bench is actually from a suite of videos and plans created by the WoodGrafter. I've posted a link to a summary of the bench 

I built this bench for less than £200!!! - YouTube . 

While it is possible to build it for this amount, I chose rather nicer wood and better MFT tops and the build cost was considerably more. As I see it, the bench is extremely sturdy and should last for decades and is worth the cost.

I bought all of the timber rough sawn and milled it myself. The top is a laminate with 32 pieces and the legs and stretchers are all joined with mortice and tenon joints. The bottom shelves are Medite water resistant MDF. The MFT inserts are Valchromat. The MFT's were cut and drilled by me and formed using The Parf II system. The 96mm grid extends contiguously across both inserts.

My last mortice and tenon joint was done over 40 years ago and my woodworking capability was very basic before embarking on this project. It was to be my lockdown challenge for 2021. I'm really rather pleased with it.


----------



## mikej460

and so you should be Ian 

thanks

Mike


----------



## steve66

I made this mdf cabinet during lockdown, upcycled computer speakers and 32 inch tv, games console with built in 2000 arcade games, for the kids you understand


----------



## DrPhill

I made a plank today, just a small one. Boy did that make me appreciate the idea of buying ready-sawn timber.....

Now I have to figure out hw to thickness it with limited hand-tools......


----------



## MadMental

ian33a said:


> View attachment 112135
> 
> View attachment 112136
> 
> This has kept me busy for the past couple of months


Your making this up no workshop is that kleen you Fibber you


----------



## Adam W.

Well, it's still attached and I've put a couple of coats of shellac on it. I'll rub it down next week when it's hard and French polish it.

There's a couple of little errors and a tiny chip which I'll repair, but all in all, I'm quite happy with my first attempt at veneer and I may do some more on the next mahogany chest I've got on the go.


----------



## Chris Brunton

A request from my sister for her street's Community Garden


----------



## Cooper

DrPhill said:


> Now I have to figure out hw to thickness it with limited hand-tools


Well done Dr Phill. I do a bit of this as I don't have a bandsaw or planer. I find that if I saw reasonably acuratly, then plane one side and edge flat and square its possible mark out and cut sets of dovetails and groves etc to make a box and when its all glued up plane the outside smooth, then saw the top off. I get a result before I'm completely exhausted and demoralised this way. If I planed both sides before starting the box I'd give up. I find it really satisfying thinking that I made something and saved a log from the fire! I haven't bought any timber for ages.


----------



## DrPhill

Thanks Cooper - at least I am not the only one....



Cooper said:


> ....... I find that if I saw reasonably acuratly, then plane one side and edge flat and square.....


There's the rub. I am not sure if my technique is up to it yet. I wanted a flat piece to practice carving and got a little carried away. Next time I will try for a bit more accuracy - holding the log is a problem - I use the picnic bench as I can saw down between the slats of the seat. Is there a better choice of saw (I am using a coarse 'draper venom')?


----------



## Cooper

DrPhill said:


> Is there a better choice of saw (I am using a coarse 'draper venom')?


There may indeed be a better saw but I don't have one. I have a very cheap panel saw, with induction hardened teeth. I'm lucky that I have a big engineer's vice that I can hold the log upright in. I cut down as far as I can and then risk the end by splitting. I am even more lucky as I have a bench with a woodworking vice, in which I can hold the board and I can saw down the middle of it so I have two bits half the thickness.
Its a bit of a technique and very tiring for an old bloke but being retired I have time to recover. Like you, I find the spaces between the slats of the garden table very useful, though not for converting logs but for cutting sheet materials.

The pictures were a very sad old cherry log I rescued from a friends firewood stack. (Looking at the pictures I see I could have planed a bit more to remove the knifed shoulder lines.) Boxes are quite hard work. My old lathe has an appetite for logs, which requires far less effort on my part. The body of the duck was a chunk from the end of the same log. (The head was a bit of tent pole.) As I said I haven't bought any wood for a long time.


----------



## Glyn Hyatt

Rocking horse for my 2 year old granddaughter. 
5 layers of 18mm beech ply glued together. 
pattern was a free download from YouTube “Hooked on wood” website.


----------



## DrPhill

lovely box. Wish that I could do that. Maybe next time I cut a plank I will aim higher....


----------



## Garden Shed Projects

Glyn Hyatt said:


> Rocking horse for my 2 year old granddaughter.
> 5 layers of 18mm beech ply glued together.
> pattern was a free download from YouTube “Hooked on wood” website.


That’s cool. She obviously loves it


----------



## Ithica

Im a new member, 1st post. I found a rotting wooden bench - ornate iron ends. For years I lugged around from house to house similar iron bench ends. Never doing anything with them, I decided to renovate this bench. My ancient saw bench created slats from some left over oak TG floor boards. My mentor, Dan 2. ran the slats thro his thicknesser. Some black nuts and bolts from Bricomarche and an acceptable garden bench.


----------



## Adam W.

Ithica said:


> Im a new member, 1st post. I found a rotting wooden bench - ornate iron ends. For years I lugged around from house to house similar iron bench ends. Never doing anything with them, I decided to renovate this bench. My ancient saw bench created slats from some left over oak TG floor boards. My mentor, Dan 2. ran the slats thro his thicknesser. Some black nuts and bolts from Bricomarche and an acceptable garden bench.


I have two of those exact same benches. One's complete and the other is just metalwork.


----------



## TomW

Only really picked up wood working in January and been messing around with various projects, restoring some old tools planes and saws and the like.

Been sticking to pine and softwood for a bit but decided to start on the hard stuff having gained a bit more confidence.

So this is my first project in hardwood using black walnut and oak.

All the wood was from some rough sawn boards so it's 95% by hand. Used the drill for some of the fittings and I used an orbital sander.


Present for my soon to be mother in law. Got some lid stays coming that is the last touch before hand over.


----------



## mikej460

Glyn Hyatt said:


> Rocking horse for my 2 year old granddaughter.
> 5 layers of 18mm beech ply glued together.
> pattern was a free download from YouTube “Hooked on wood” website.


Excellent job, I want to make one. How much ply did you use and where did you get it from?


----------



## D.Stephenson

Thought I’d share this arts and crafts inspired table made last week by one of my 2 day class students. All from English oak apart from the legs which are Euro oak, finished with Osmo satin hardwax oil.


----------



## Rorton

TomW said:


> Only really picked up wood working in January and been messing around with various projects, restoring some old tools planes and saws and the like.
> 
> Been sticking to pine and softwood for a bit but decided to start on the hard stuff having gained a bit more confidence.
> 
> So this is my first project in hardwood using black walnut and oak.
> 
> All the wood was from some rough sawn boards so it's 95% by hand. Used the drill for some of the fittings and I used an orbital sander.
> 
> 
> Present for my soon to be mother in law. Got some lid stays coming that is the last touch before hand over.
> 
> View attachment 112346
> View attachment 112345
> View attachment 112347


Love it, really nice looking - what have you chosen for lid stays? I have just done a box with std hinges and am looking for something similar.


----------



## Rorton

Last year I glued together all the scraps and ends I had of hardwood, planed them down into something resembling a panel, and left them on the shelf, didn't know what I was going to do with them at the time, but this week decided on a box.

Its 300 x 200 x 150 high, lined with suede - cheep hinges (will go for some better next time) and mahogany splines

Wasn't without its problems, once I cut the lid from the box, the lid became very fragile, so had to glue in an oak lining to support it - no idea how this will work over time - lid is floating in a groove, and base is solid birch ply


----------



## TomW

Rorton said:


> Love it, really nice looking - what have you chosen for lid stays? I have just done a box with std hinges and am looking for something similar.



Was a bit limited as tbh I make things up as I go and they end up how they end up being one offs, so the stays have ended up using were these Solid Brass small Box lid stay (pairs) and placed on the outside as the inside as the lid and box don't align. In giving it a go it worked out I think, unusual but avoids interfering with anything in the box.

I'd considered using some leather as a check strap which can look nice too providing it doesn't stretch too much.


----------



## Cooper

Rorton said:


> Last year I glued together all the scraps and ends I had of hardwood, planed them down into something resembling a panel, and left them on the shelf, didn't know what I was going to do with them at the time, but this week decided on a box.


Hi, I like the box and am impressed by the quality. I presume that the preparation of the slab involved machine planing but I can't decide about the construction. Either using hand tools or machines its quite a feat, well done.
Martin


----------



## Rorton

Hi, thank you, initially I didn’t have a thicknesser so flattened the slab with a router in a sled. When I came to use it, I needed to get it down to 12mm, and I now have a thicknesser, so used that to get it down to final thickness. The lid was put together from thinner off cuts at the time I made the box, 6mm in thickness.

for construction, it was power tools all the way, I’m terrible with hand tools, can just about use a chisel for the hinges if I use a router first to get me started


----------



## Oraclebhoy

Back with some more chairs.
better than the last ones I made. Used pocket holes to screw things together, just need to plug ,sand and paint them.
This was my first attempt at an angled back. Really need to improve my bandsaw skills. My straight lines are shocking 
With pocket holes I was going to do it with the holes hidden at the back but when I was putting the 1”x3” onto the 2”x2” I would be screwing toward the edge of the wood rather than into the fat of the wood.
So flipped it. Not sure if this was right or wrong.


----------



## Rorton

nice job, could you use wooden dowel, or I have seen special 'plugs' to put in the pocket holes - could even get them in a contracting colour to make a feature of them?

How about a very gentle curve/arc on the back rest, doesn't need to be much, but something to differentiate the seat from the back maybe?


----------



## Oraclebhoy

Rorton said:


> nice job, could you use wooden dowel, or I have seen special 'plugs' to put in the pocket holes - could even get them in a contracting colour to make a feature of them?
> 
> How about a very gentle curve/arc on the back rest, doesn't need to be much, but something to differentiate the seat from the back maybe?


Oh I like the idea of a contrasting colour. I’ve got the plug cutter and a pile of teak wood that my wife was going to throw out.
Will see if I can get some from that.
Cheers


----------



## Fitzroy

Oraclebhoy said:


> Oh I like the idea of a contrasting colour. I’ve got the plug cutter and a *pile of teak wood* that my wife was going to throw out.
> Will see if I can get some from that.
> Cheers



Throwing any wood away is sacrilege, but a 'pile of teak' leaves me with so many unanswered questions!


----------



## Rorton

I remember last year buying some walnut from a guy that was given it to burn - he realised it had a bit of value so sold it on, was still cheep though


----------



## Oraclebhoy

Fitzroy said:


> Throwing any wood away is sacrilege, but a 'pile of teak' leaves me with so many unanswered questions!


We had some well used garden furniture that had seen better days. Wife wanted to chuck it all after the table gave way.
I managed to reclaim the legs and a few slats. Got a chair that I’ve just dismantled to put back together with new dowels and some strong glue/resin. Going to get another few years from it.


----------



## Cooper

Telescope for my grandchildren. Thanks to Boatfixer for suggesting I to go to the sign shop to get off cuts to colour the PVC waste pipes instead of staining.


----------



## WoodchipWilbur

D.Stephenson said:


> All from English oak apart from the legs which are Euro oak...


Interesting turn of phrase! 
Looks like the main piece of work is in those rather splendid legs - I might have said, "All from Euro oak, apart from the top which is English oak"! 
But a nice table, nevertheless.


----------



## Setch

The telescope looks superb!


----------



## D.Stephenson

WoodchipWilbur said:


> Interesting turn of phrase!
> Looks like the main piece of work is in those rather splendid legs - I might have said, "All from Euro oak, apart from the top which is English oak"!
> But a nice table, nevertheless.



Ah by legs I meant literally the 4 legs that came from 2” Euro oak, the cross rails and slats were as with the top English oak 
Thanks for the kind words!


----------



## kinverkid

Glyn Hyatt said:


> Rocking horse for my 2 year old granddaughter.
> 5 layers of 18mm beech ply glued together.
> pattern was a free download from YouTube “Hooked on wood” website.


Fantastic photograph.


----------



## Glyn Hyatt

i


mikej460 said:


> Excellent job, I want to make one. How much ply did you use and where did you get it from?


I used one 8 x 4 sheet of the best quality birch ply from a local timber suppliers. ( Stoke on Trent timber co ltd) £39.
If you look on YouTube for Hooked on Wood.
he has a web site with a freedownload of the pattern. I don’t have a CNC so I transferred the measurements on some spare 12mm ply and made a pattern to cut out and route the 5 layers it takes to make it.
there’s also measurements and patterns for a larger one for 4 year olds.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

SWMBO decided that her mum needs a new table to go into the new house she is building for her. The legs were sourced from Wood Street in Bangkok but everything else is made by me


----------



## Stigmorgan

So a colleague is retiring at the end of the school year in a few weeks, most of the staff are doing the usual collection to buy flowers and a gift etc which is fine for them but as I like this person I wanted to gift her something that will have some meaning for her, when I started as school site manager here 3.5 years ago one of my first acts was unfortunately to have a silver birch removed as it was infected with a fungus, I kept a few pieces from it in the boiler room, I'd almost forgotten about them until I knocked one over last week and noticed some nice spalding showing through the end so I cut a piece off with the idea of making a nice plant pot so my colleague will always have a piece of the school she has spent almost 40 years of her life at. I roved the bark and used a drill to remove the bulk of the material and set to with my chisels (unfortunately a cheap and nasty set that needs resharpening after just showing it the wood) after removing all the inner material I rounded the top edge to show the rings a little, this morning I got it all sanded and cleaned up, used some fibreglass resin to waterproof the inside and gave it 2 coats of teak oil, once it dries in a few days I'll probably give it a coat of briwax for extra protection before I plant it up ready for the retirement party.


----------



## kinverkid

Stigmorgan said:


> So a colleague is retiring at the end of the school year in a few weeks, most of the staff are doing the usual collection to buy flowers and a gift etc which is fine for them but as I like this person I wanted to gift her something that will have some meaning for her, when I started as school site manager here 3.5 years ago one of my first acts was unfortunately to have a silver birch removed as it was infected with a fungus, I kept a few pieces from it in the boiler room, I'd almost forgotten about them until I knocked one over last week and noticed some nice spalding showing through the end so I cut a piece off with the idea of making a nice plant pot so my colleague will always have a piece of the school she has spent almost 40 years of her life at. I roved the bark and used a drill to remove the bulk of the material and set to with my chisels (unfortunately a cheap and nasty set that needs resharpening after just showing it the wood) after removing all the inner material I rounded the top edge to show the rings a little, this morning I got it all sanded and cleaned up, used some fibreglass resin to waterproof the inside and gave it 2 coats of teak oil, once it dries in a few days I'll probably give it a coat of briwax for extra protection before I plant it up ready for the retirement party.
> View attachment 112517
> 
> View attachment 112518
> 
> View attachment 112519
> 
> View attachment 112520


I think she will love it.


----------



## paul-c

Glyn Hyatt said:


> Rocking horse for my 2 year old granddaughter.
> 5 layers of 18mm beech ply glued together.
> pattern was a free download from YouTube “Hooked on wood” website.


hi i bet that smile made all the work well worth it


----------



## Glyn Hyatt

paul-c said:


> hi i bet that smile made all the work well worth it


Absolutely did. I’m just in the process of making a toy chest for her now.


----------



## Jester129

What a terrific thought. very nice too.


----------



## triker64

Just about finished this corner unit in pine. All done with hand tools


----------



## George of the Wood

The Mrs. finished a beautiful needlepoint frog that was just begging for a frame:


----------



## Doug71

Some alcove cupboards and panelling I did a week or two ago, the customer has just sent me over this photo of them painted, I think they worked out quite well.

This job was a bit different because apart from planing up and gluing together some Tulipwood for the shelves this was all made on site in the room it's in. I did it as a bit of an experiment really, I basically just turned up in my van with a few sheets of MDF and got busy with the tracksaw and Domino to see how it would be if I didn't have a workshop, turns out not much different if you are just doing MDF built ins!


----------



## Doug B

Doug71 said:


> Some alcove cupboards and panelling I did a week or two ago, the customer has just sent me over this photo of them painted, I think they worked out quite well.
> 
> This job was a bit different because apart from planing up and gluing together some Tulipwood for the shelves this was all made on site in the room it's in. I did it as a bit of an experiment really, I basically just turned up in my van with a few sheets of MDF and got busy with the tracksaw and Domino to see how it would be if I didn't have a workshop, turns out not much different if you are just doing MDF built ins!
> 
> View attachment 112636


Also helps the customer understand the price as if you simply turn up with something made in the workshop & fit it in a day they have no idea how much work has actually gone into making it, seeing you make it on site gives them a much better idea of what’s involve.


----------



## mg123

Doug71 said:


> Some alcove cupboards and panelling I did a week or two ago, the customer has just sent me over this photo of them painted, I think they worked out quite well.
> 
> This job was a bit different because apart from planing up and gluing together some Tulipwood for the shelves this was all made on site in the room it's in. I did it as a bit of an experiment really, I basically just turned up in my van with a few sheets of MDF and got busy with the tracksaw and Domino to see how it would be if I didn't have a workshop, turns out not much different if you are just doing MDF built ins!
> 
> View attachment 112636



I love how that looks and I'm looking for something very similar, what areas do you cover?


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

My siblings and i have bought a really nice Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic watch (not this one!) for my dad’s 60th birthday, so i’ve made this watch stand to go with the watch we got him.

Fiddleback maple base with chunks of stainless steel in the base to weigh it down and keep it stable. The stainless rod is thereaded into the base stainless and there’s also a chunk of stainless in the top, which is sandwiched by mdf. The mdf is wrapped in EVA foam, which is then covered with suede leather. If i get a chance some time i’ll put a bunch of photos in a post in the projects section of the forum.


----------



## gregmcateer

A BIG chunky pestle and mortar requested buy a fellow forumer who doesn't spin wood.

Mortar internal 4.5" by 4.5"
Pestle 8.5" by about 2.5" tapering to 2"
Beech, unfinished for him to choose his own oil. It was VERY hard and took a good long time to hollow using a crown revolution, which was my first go with it. Filled a few cracks with sanding dust and CA.


----------



## Doug71

mg123 said:


> I love how that looks and I'm looking for something very similar, what areas do you cover?



I'm in East Yorkshire and kept busy by local customers so afraid I don't travel far, just 10 miles away would be a long distance job for me 

Built in MDF furniture isn't that difficult these days with track saws etc, I'm sure you will find loads of people who can do it.


----------



## mg123

Doug71 said:


> I'm in East Yorkshire and kept busy by local customers so afraid I don't travel far, just 10 miles away would be a long distance job for me
> 
> Built in MDF furniture isn't that difficult these days with track saws etc, I'm sure you will find loads of people who can do it.


10 miles, wow looks like business is going well. Thanks for getting back know me.


----------



## Lancashire Wood Studio

A little pens and paper holder in zebrawood with initials on the front.


----------



## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)

My wife asked for bedside tables for a guest bedroom, stipulating Mid Century Modern for a clean, uncluttered look. I knocked these out on a three-day weekend, which was made possible by using pre-made panels in Merbau and mitred joinery (reinforced with biscuits). The legs were turned from Maple scraps, and all stained to match the Jarrah drawer fronts. At least I got to make proper dovetailed drawers 






One case partially stained …





















Regards from Perth

Derek


----------



## Kittyhawk

Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) said:


> My wife asked for bedside tables for a guest bedroom




Nice work, Aussie neighbour!
I see you also have a leg vice. Is it Jarrah? I made mine out of some New Guinea hardwood, the front being 35mm thick but it still bends a bit when I crank it up. Love to see a pic or two of it if you get a chance. .


----------



## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)

Hi cousin KH! 

My Roubo bench, built about 8 or 9 years ago, has a Jarrah base and European Oak top. The leg vise has a wooden screw and chain drive, and the tail vise is a Benchcrafted wagon vise. The underbench cabinet was built in the past few months ...












A lot of tools have since been transferred to the drawers ...











A lot of french fitted tools ...






Build alongs for the underbench cabinet, as well as many furniture builds, is here: Furniture

Details of the leg vise and chain drive is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/AYSLegViseChainAdjuster.html







Regards from Perth 

Derek


----------



## barkhousewoodworks

Hi folks. I’m new to ukworkshop so I’ve probably added my first post in the wrong place. It’s supposed to be in ‘the last thing I made’ Anyway, here’s my oak and sapele tool carry box. Let me know what you think


----------



## Padster

These are my first efforts at pen turning......






Regards 

Padster


----------



## Oraclebhoy

Think I’m starting to find my feet.
Yes it’s only a simple pine table but, it’s square, it’s flat, it has tapered legs (should have taken more off and done two sides of the legs), it’s solid (pocket hole screws) and my round over bit is getting to see some action.


----------



## Cabinetman

barkhousewoodworks said:


> Hi folks. I’m new to ukworkshop so I’ve probably added my first post in the wrong place. It’s supposed to be in ‘the last thing I made’ Anyway, here’s my oak and sapele tool carry box. Let me know what you thinkView attachment 112863
> View attachment 112864


Welcome, yes you’re in the right place and you’ve started off well with a photo of work. It certainly appears to be nicely made if a little unconventional – nothing wrong with that. It’s possible that the shortgrain on the handle might cause a problem if knocked. Is there a dovetail between the sides and the ends?Ian


----------



## Oraclebhoy

barkhousewoodworks said:


> Hi folks. I’m new to ukworkshop so I’ve probably added my first post in the wrong place. It’s supposed to be in ‘the last thing I made’ Anyway, here’s my oak and sapele tool carry box. Let me know what you thinkView attachment 112863
> View attachment 112864


Love the design.
How did you do the logo? Is that printed or burnt in?
The handle, are the dowels wedges or are the glued in?


----------



## Hallelujahal

Turned this last night as a little gift for my mother. She’s not been able to get to church recently due to health issues. She loves it.

I’m a complete novice at woodworking but love the figuring in the wood


----------



## barkhousewoodworks

Oraclebhoy said:


> Love the design.
> How did you do the logo? Is that printed or burnt in?
> The handle, are the dowels wedges or are the glued in?


Hi, I have a branding iron, the type you heat with a blowtorch, not electric. I’ve discovered that if I unscrew the wooden handle I can heat it up then put it in my pillar drill and lower it down onto the workpiece and it will give a really even pressure. The length of the metal shaft means you can do it without burning your fingers! Seems to work well and I get really good detail. I cut the handle shape with a jigsaw and finished it with a sanding drum on the pillar drill. The dowels are a tight fit but I did smear some Titebond into the holes and onto the dowels just to be sure they wouldn’t work free, at least for a long time anyway. Thanks for the interest and if you have any more questions please ask. If there is a downside to the carrier it would be the weight. It’s very heavy but I think it’s a nice thing and I wanted something that would stand the test of time and something that one of my children might use when I’ve got to the great workshop in the sky!


----------



## Seaside Donkey

My sister asked me to make a keepsake box for one of her Grandkids.
















Carcass is Black Walnut, which was lovely to work with. Lid is Zebrano, which looks right nice but is an absolute pig to work with.

The bottom is flock lined and I've oiled the inside as well as the outside. 

The eagle eyed will notice that the marking out for the dovetails was a bit haphazard. That was due to bad eyesight so not able to see my own marks properly on the Black Walnut. I've bought a white pencil for next time.

My sister wanted her Grandaughter's name on the box but after experimenting with pyrography, router stencils and clip carving I bottled it. Pyrography and routed letters just didn't look right. Clip carving turned out to be a lot harder than expected and I just couldn't bring myself to ruin that walnut with my clumsy efforts.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Search for dovetail marking with blue tape - Derek Cohen iirc.


----------



## Cabinetman

Seaside Donkey said:


> My sister asked me to make a keepsake box for one of her Grandkids.
> 
> View attachment 113147
> 
> 
> View attachment 113148
> 
> 
> View attachment 113149
> 
> 
> Carcass is Black Walnut, which was lovely to work with. Lid is Zebrano, which looks right nice but is an absolute pig to work with.
> 
> The bottom is flock lined and I've oiled the inside as well as the outside.
> 
> The eagle eyed will notice that the marking out for the dovetails was a bit haphazard. That was due to bad eyesight so not able to see my own marks properly on the Black Walnut. I've bought a white pencil for next time.
> 
> My sister wanted her Grandaughter's name on the box but after experimenting with pyrography, router stencils and clip carving I bottled it. Pyrography and routed letters just didn't look right. Clip carving turned out to be a lot harder than expected and I just couldn't bring myself to ruin that walnut with my clumsy efforts.


 Well I’ve googled it and not found anything, what is clip carving please? I taught myself to carve letters in a couple of hours with a V chisel, it’s quite simple once you get going , but I think it’s something to be done before you make the box just in case you make a Horlicks of it ha ha Ian


----------



## fezman

another big +1 for the blue tape trick for dovetails and Yes Phil it was Derek - he explains it here on his website. http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/HalfblindDovetailsinJarrah.html


----------



## Padster

Some of you will have seen I'm on a pen turning mission currently this pen no.3









Padster


----------



## Seaside Donkey

Cabinetman said:


> Well I’ve googled it and not found anything, what is clip carving please? I taught myself to carve letters in a couple of hours with a V chisel, it’s quite simple once you get going , but I think it’s something to be done before you make the box just in case you make a Horlicks of it ha ha Ian



Typo. Chip carving.

Told you my eyes were bad.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Padster said:


> Some of you will have seen I'm on a pen turning mission currently this pen no.3
> 
> View attachment 113169
> View attachment 113170
> 
> 
> Padster


I tended to make them with that profile, but most people who handled them preferred them slimmer.

Taylor's kit?


----------



## Padster

Phil Pascoe said:


> I tended to make them with that profile, but most people who handled them preferred them slimmer.
> 
> Taylor's kit?



The first two were slimmer, I deliberately made this thicker.

Think this kit was CS Crafts, Blank as well or could've been Axi - I have quite a few bits from both.

Regards

Padster


----------



## RichardG

Made from some oak branches that I saved from the fire wood basket. Noticed they had some spalting and wanted to use this and the centre of the wood for effect. No idea how long they’ll last… Did the small boxes first and then thought they’d make nice mushrooms. All different thicknesses to see which ones survive and to try and work out which shape I prefer.


----------



## RichardG

RichardG said:


> Made from some oak branches



And I’ve just noticed that one of the boxes is not oak, no idea what it is though?


----------



## Jacob

I've made a few trestles over the years but inspired by Robin Clevett I decided I needed another 
It's for this lathe, which I bunged in quickly when I first got it, on a bit of fire door off-cut and some metal work I already had. The height was right but everything else was wrong - not enough space under the bars, too enclosed with shavings piling up, difficult to get round the back etc etc







Bit of old joist 7ft long





Trimming for height





Trying the blocks for level. More bits of the same joist










12" sanding disc and motor set up. 4 pulleys but very easy to change with wedge and locking handle





Getting my hand in with some offcuts




Loads of space around it - shavings fall away easy to sweep up - the whole thing easy to move around - plenty of space under the bars - 6ft between centres - quiet and very stable. Pleased with it so far!


----------



## Rorton

Was messing about with some scrap bits of birch ply, and thought id have a go at a box. I edged piece of ply with mahogany first, then glued up to form the box, then did the same with panels for the lid and the base. 

Turned out better than expected, so lined it with some pig suede and will make a nice present


----------



## Dr Al

Finished this a few weeks ago, but finally got round to writing it up for my website: a slow-speed grinder for reshaping and maybe sharpening chisels, plane blades etc:
















Lots more pictures (including higher resolution ones and photos of the insides) here: CGTK - Slow-Speed Grinder


----------



## Cabinetman

Dr Al said:


> Finished this a few weeks ago, but finally got round to writing it up for my website: a slow-speed grinder for reshaping and maybe sharpening chisels, plane blades etc:
> 
> View attachment 113395
> 
> 
> View attachment 113396
> 
> 
> View attachment 113397
> 
> 
> Lots more pictures (including higher resolution ones and photos of the insides) here: CGTK - Slow-Speed Grinder


Hi Dr Al, nice, I like that a lot, what surface is on the disks please? Did you buy them like that?


----------



## Oraclebhoy

Rorton said:


> Was messing about with some scrap bits of birch ply, and thought id have a go at a box. I edged piece of ply with mahogany first, then glued up to form the box, then did the same with panels for the lid and the base.
> 
> Turned out better than expected, so lined it with some pig suede and will make a nice present
> 
> 
> View attachment 113391
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 113392


That’s lovely. What’s pig suede? Never heard of that phrase before.


----------



## Rorton

thank you  you'd think I know what im talking about here, but I carefully followed a post by custard on the forums, and the recommendation is to use pig suede for lining boxes - then on the search for pig suede, there are lots of others - some thicker, some thinner so needed to make sure I got the right one


----------



## Markwfish

Nice work, fantastic grinder


----------



## Lons

A couple more carvings following on from the Old Timer I posted (1) Woodcarving Projects | UKworkshop.co.uk
A frog in walnut burr and a "critter" in lime. That started as a bear but I decided I wanted to carve a badger but got lost in the middle somewhere and it turned out more like a rodent so I gave up, the missus likes it but she has no taste.


----------



## Markwfish

Got this thing going using all my scraps of timber so have been making cutting boards


all with rubber feet, finished with foodsafe oil/beeswax. 3D one from Oak, Mahoganny & Cherry, Yew lipping.



an end grain one with maple insert lines,oak, iroko, maple


so along the same lines made a box for the wife (yet to be lined)








As with the boards the lid is cherry, oak chestnut, mahoganny. The box is cherry.



adjustable phone stand same principle, great for hands free skype calls.


----------



## Padster

Continuing my new pen thing......






Regards

Padster


----------



## Woodbutcher1960

Rorton said:


> Was messing about with some scrap bits of birch ply, and thought id have a go at a box. I edged piece of ply with mahogany first, then glued up to form the box, then did the same with panels for the lid and the base.
> 
> Turned out better than expected, so lined it with some pig suede and will make a nice present
> 
> 
> View attachment 113391
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 113392


Really like the look of that. What did you do at the corner joints? Is it a glued butt join or is there something else in there that I can't see? Good work.


----------



## Paul200

Just finished this bedside box with a phone slot and scoop. Scottish Walnut with American Walnut details.


----------



## Rorton

Woodbutcher1960 said:


> Really like the look of that. What did you do at the corner joints? Is it a glued butt join or is there something else in there that I can't see? Good work.


Thanks , just butt joints im afraid. I drew it in sketchup first to make sure it would work, and its put together like this...

Glued edging on the 2 side panels (made these wider than needed so I could trim the assembly to size on the tablesaw)
Glued edging on the lid/ base panels in 2 stages (did the end of the lid/base first, and like the side panel cut them all to exact size after)

To glue up the box, I clamped together the 4 sides got them square etc and left to dry, 
Once dry, then glued on the lid and base. 

Once all done, chopped the lid off at the table saw, and small chamfer with the router,


----------



## Rorton

Paul200 said:


> Just finished this bedside box with a phone slot and scoop. Scottish Walnut with American Walnut details.
> View attachment 113467
> View attachment 113468


looks really nice - like the splines of different sizes - how did you hinge the lid?


----------



## Paul200

Rorton said:


> looks really nice - like the splines of different sizes - how did you hinge the lid?


Thanks Rorton. I use hardwood dowels usually, or sometimes brass rod if the lid is particularly thin. Like this -


----------



## Dr Al

Cabinetman said:


> Hi Dr Al, nice, I like that a lot, what surface is on the disks please? Did you buy them like that?



The discs are coated in diamonds. You can get them very cheaply in 100 mm or 150 mm diameter (I use the larger size) and grits from 80 to 3000. I mostly use the 240 one so far for reshaping and then put a secondary bevel on with a waterstone.

The discs cost me about £5 each; I've since seen them cheaper than that (although I didn't check postage). The two holes for drive dogs were drilled by me: the backing material is mild steel so very easy to drill.


----------



## Cabinetman

Well that’s pretty good thank you, when my water stone bites the dust I know what to do!


----------



## Suffolkboy

Lons said:


> A couple more carvings following on from the Old Timer I posted (1) Woodcarving Projects | UKworkshop.co.uk
> A frog in walnut burr and a "critter" in lime. That started as a bear but I decided I wanted to carve a badger but got lost in the middle somewhere and it turned out more like a rodent so I gave up, the missus likes it but she has no taste.
> 
> View attachment 113426
> View attachment 113425
> View attachment 113424
> View attachment 113423
> View attachment 113431
> View attachment 113430
> View attachment 113429
> View attachment 113427


I really like the badger.


----------



## Mr1721

Not up to the standard as everyone on here but everyone has to start somewhere right?


----------



## kevinlightfoot

Mr1721 said:


> Not up to the standard as everyone on here but everyone has to start somewhere right?
> View attachment 113542


Right


----------



## Mr1721

Mr1721 said:


> Not up to the standard as everyone on here but everyone has to start somewhere right?
> View attachment 113542



The sides are made from end grain ply all glued together. Cutting 10mm slices of ply on my table saw was a little scary...and advice on cutting narrow pieces on a table saw would be most welcome!


----------



## Rorton

If you made a 'stop' you could cut the strips so they are on the other side of the blade

is one way to do it. 









Cutting Thin Strips at the Table Saw


Various methods for safety cutting thin strips of wood at the table saw.




thewoodwhisperer.com


----------



## Mr1721

Rorton said:


> If you made a 'stop' you could cut the strips so they are on the other side of the blade
> 
> is one way to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting Thin Strips at the Table Saw
> 
> 
> Various methods for safety cutting thin strips of wood at the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thewoodwhisperer.com



I like the look of the microjig. 2 of them and I'm sure I would feel a lot safer when using the table saw. I've had 1 kick back previously and I've veered away from the saw since really. The ply box was a way of building my confidence back up but 10mm strips wasn't the best way to do it


----------



## Felipe

First workbench ever.
Just started in the craft.
Almost all my tools are in display in the photo haha
I want to make a table saw now.


----------



## thetyreman

finished making my first kit guitar which was bought from crimson guitars in the UK, the neck is tru oil and I used crimson stunning stains to create the sunburst followed by 3 layers of dewaxed shellac, bare knuckle pickups, gotoh tuners and a wilkinson bridge, very enjoyable build and I now finally have a decent bass for recording with.


----------



## starlingwood

Single bed for my 4 year old son. Made out of poplar (first time used, nice to work with, very ugly though) and oak detail on head and foot boards. Slats made from American yellow pine. Traditional mortise and tenon joinery and some dowels too in places. Finished with Earthborn No 17 eggshell (dries very quickly) (brush painted) and Osmo polyx on oak. very please with how it came out, I would love to try paint spraying in the future.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

thetyreman said:


> View attachment 113677
> View attachment 113678
> View attachment 113679
> View attachment 113680
> View attachment 113681
> 
> 
> finished making my first kit guitar which was bought from crimson guitars in the UK, the neck is tru oil and I used crimson stunning stains the the sunburst followed by 3 layers of dewaxed shellac, bare knuckle pickups, gotoh tuners and a wilkinson bridge, very enjoyable build and I now finally have a decent bass for recording with.


She's pretty! I would play that.


----------



## Orraloon

thetyreman said:


> View attachment 113677
> View attachment 113678
> View attachment 113679
> View attachment 113680
> View attachment 113681
> 
> 
> finished making my first kit guitar which was bought from crimson guitars in the UK, the neck is tru oil and I used crimson stunning stains to create the sunburst followed by 3 layers of dewaxed shellac, bare knuckle pickups, gotoh tuners and a wilkinson bridge, very enjoyable build and I now finally have a decent bass for recording with.


Thats come out looking pretty good. 
I have picked up a few good tips and ideas from the Crimson Guitar building videos.
Regards
John


----------



## Oraclebhoy

Been wanting to build one of these for a while, we had a garden bench with a few rotten slats (the bench is 35 years old and cost 50p from B&Q as it was missing some screws!!) so when I replaced them I kept the old slats and recycled them into this. The sides are old floorboards and even tried printing logos on it with an ink jet.
So cheap as a half portion of chips to make and great for storage.


----------



## robgul

Oraclebhoy said:


> Been wanting to build one of these for a while, we had a garden bench with a few rotten slats (the bench is 35 years old and cost 50p from B&Q as it was missing some screws!!) so when I replaced them I kept the old slats and recycled them into this. The sides are old floorboards and even tried printing logos on it with an ink jet.
> So cheap as a half portion of chips to make and great for storage.



You'll be needing a supply of pallets to get making stuff ! . . . I've been making lots of stuff with pallets - from wine glass/bottle carriers through to rustic display stands for shops to display plants for sale. Low cost material and the process is highly therapeutic and enjoyable for me.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

thetyreman said:


> View attachment 113677
> View attachment 113678
> View attachment 113679
> View attachment 113680
> View attachment 113681
> 
> 
> finished making my first kit guitar which was bought from crimson guitars in the UK, the neck is tru oil and I used crimson stunning stains to create the sunburst followed by 3 layers of dewaxed shellac, bare knuckle pickups, gotoh tuners and a wilkinson bridge, very enjoyable build and I now finally have a decent bass for recording with.


You couldn't have found a better grain pattern.


----------



## PaulArthur

Have just finished this sideboard to replace a horrid IKEA one that we’ve had for a decade, that didn’t work functionally or aesthetically.




Pretty happy with how it has turned out, and I’ve just got another one with slightly different doors to go on the other side of the room to make now!

Ash carcass, with dovetailed corners and a ash veneered back, ash lipped doors, with ash veneered backs, black walnut saw cut veneer fronts.


----------



## Oraclebhoy

PaulArthur said:


> View attachment 113716


The veneer is stunning.


----------



## NickDReed

PaulArthur said:


> Have just finished this sideboard to replace a horrid IKEA one that we’ve had for a decade, that didn’t work functionally or aesthetically.
> View attachment 113716
> 
> Pretty happy with how it has turned out, and I’ve just got another one with slightly different doors to go on the other side of the room to make now!
> 
> Ash carcass, with dovetailed corners and a ash veneered back, ash lipped doors, with ash veneered backs, black walnut saw cut veneer fronts.View attachment 113717
> View attachment 113718
> View attachment 113719
> View attachment 113720



Qudos on the Nimrod vinyl. 

Beautiful piece of furniture too


----------



## PaulArthur

NickDReed said:


> Qudos on the Nimrod vinyl.
> 
> Beautiful piece of furniture too



Thanks - it was either that or Dookie…


----------



## NickDReed

PaulArthur said:


> Thanks - it was either that or Dookie…


Insomniac is my personal favourite


----------



## PaulArthur

NickDReed said:


> Insomniac is my personal favourite


I remember vividly I had Brain Stew on cd single - it was shaped like a brain! Gruesome, but awesome.


----------



## NickDReed

PaulArthur said:


> I remember vividly I had Brain Stew on cd single - it was shaped like a brain! Gruesome, but awesome.


Think my brother still has it!!!


----------



## Jonm

I posted a wood storage cart on here, based on a design from WWMM. Made from pre used timber heading for the skip. Problem was that I made it 0.9m wide, to save space but then put 1.2m wide sheets on it so no space saved. Here is link to previous post


Jonm said:


> Wood Cart made from pre used wood.
> This is not up to the normal workmanship standards on this post but it was made quickly from osb, ply and mdf. All pre used from a building project, with some water damage and heading for the skip. Design taken from “woodworking for mere mortals”, link below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a rolling lumber cart – Woodworking for Mere Mortals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> woodworkingformeremortals.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My design is attached, as well as a couple of photos. Compared to the WWMM design I have removed the shelves to reduce the depth. I also reduced the width from 1.2m to 0.9m to reduce the space it takes up. That was a mistake, inevitably I want to store some sheet materials that are 1.2m wide so It takes up that width, I would have been better with 1.2m width and an extra bin.
> 
> One of the photos shows a small removable box hooked over the upright, useful for small wood blocks.
> 
> Cost about £12 for the castors plus glue and screws as wood was going for scrap. All a bit rough but works well.



So I decided to widen it, again using wood scraps. Here is a photo





The extension bit is on the right, I have now added an insert to get the bin at the same height as the others.

Here is the cart loaded





I used the wheels I had, 50mm diameter rated at 50 kg each. Even with gentle usage they collapsed. So I upgraded them




Both from Toolstation. 50mm 50 kg on left cost £3.28 each. On the right, 100mm, 130kg, cost £5.48. The 100mm wheels are much better, easier to move cart and far better value for money. 

It is made from a mixture of osb, mdf and ply of different thicknesses (destined for the skip) so it will never be pretty, but it is effective and works well for me.


----------



## nickds1

Made for the NT at Sissinghurst Castle - we made a few of these, plus some Clem Churchill ones for Chartwell - if you go there, it'll be one of our benches you'll sit on.

We worked at Scotney, but the NT closed us during covid and decided not to reopen us... So I'll make no more of these...

They're copies from the originals used as a template - the NT likes authenticity. Damn complicated - Lutyens may have been a fine architect but he knew sod all about joinery...

Lot of oak in there, and a lot of joints, many at odd angles - it's 8' long. Making one for home now, along with a Chartwell one.

Frankly, they're not that comfortable - the Chartwell ones are far nicer IMHO.








Chartwell one for comparison. Much prefer the proportions of these, though the backs are complex to get right.

Benches at NT gardens take a HUGE amount of punishment from some very HUGE people. Many many 1,000s of visitors will sit on each bench each year. They have to be strong. Photo below before the seat slat SS screws were plugged.


----------



## Doug71

Love the benches, I have always wanted to make myself a Lutyens bench, it's top of my list of things to do when I retire in about 20 years


----------



## nickds1

One of the Chartwell weave seats in situ...


----------



## DARRIN

Felipe said:


> First workbench ever.
> Just started in the craft.
> Almost all my tools are in display in the photo haha
> I want to make a table saw now. View attachment 113668


everybody starts somewhere and before you know it you'll have cupboards/ shelves /under benches and that corner full of tools offcuts and all the rubbish you dont want to part with


----------



## DARRIN

Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) said:


> Hi cousin KH!
> 
> My Roubo bench, built about 8 or 9 years ago, has a Jarrah base and European Oak top. The leg vise has a wooden screw and chain drive, and the tail vise is a Benchcrafted wagon vise. The underbench cabinet was built in the past few months ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of tools have since been transferred to the drawers ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of french fitted tools ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build alongs for the underbench cabinet, as well as many furniture builds, is here: Furniture
> 
> Details of the leg vise and chain drive is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/AYSLegViseChainAdjuster.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards from Perth
> 
> Derek


that sir is just joinery porn !!!


----------



## Blackswanwood

Small oak cupboard based on Mike Pekovich design.


----------



## Rorton

Nice. Mortised joints for the door rails and styles with a dowel added?


----------



## Blackswanwood

Rorton said:


> Nice. Mortised joints for the door rails and styles with a dowel added?


It is indeed.


----------



## Cabinetman

I really like the way the top and the bottom extend just fractionally past the sides, so easy to just plain them flush and make it boring, and just the right amount as well, so many people would’ve made that 3-4 mm – too much. Nice little cabinet. Ian


----------



## Padster

Another pen, for those who may remember one of the Christmas presents (solitaire board). I made this from an off-cut of that same teak....





Padster


----------



## Hornbeam

Oak box with curved lid
A bit of experimenting with curved laminating. I made the curved lid first from 6 laminations of construction veneer over a former in a vac bag and them made the box to fit. The trays are located into the box otherwise the lid might catch when closed. Trays and box will be lined


----------



## Hornbeam

Walnut and Zebrano box. The panels are all veneered ply with Zebrano on the outside and walnut inside, Panels are all set into grooves, The walnut panel frames were all jointed using the 4mm size dominos,
The handle is zebrano morticed into the lid. The mirror image of the handle at the back of the box acts as a stop when the lid is opened.
Trays are oak with veneered oak bases
Finish OSMO satin


----------



## Doug71

I have sold out! Table and benches from reclaimed wood on hairpin legs 

The wood was from the customers demolished barn roof.







Table is 2.5m x 1.5m, it actually looks much more rustic and characterful in real life than in the photo, full of woodworm, splits. holes and rot.






Not really my thing but turned out okay, it was dead easy to make and customer loves it 

Maybe the reclaimed, pallet, scaffold board, hairpin leg junk is the way forward  

Actually no, it will never catch on


----------



## robgul

Doug71 said:


> I have sold out! Table and benches from reclaimed wood on hairpin legs
> 
> The wood was from the customers demolished barn roof.
> 
> View attachment 114030
> 
> 
> 
> Table is 2.5m x 1.5m, it actually looks much more rustic and characterful in real life than in the photo, full of woodworm, splits. holes and rot.
> 
> View attachment 114033
> 
> 
> Not really my thing but turned out okay, it was dead easy to make and customer loves it
> 
> Maybe the reclaimed, pallet, scaffold board, hairpin leg junk is the way forward
> 
> Actually no, it will never catch on



Hairpin legs are very fashionable - console table and dining table with raw-edge Birch plywood looks good


----------



## Rodpr

End grain chopping board made from odd pieces. Sections ended up just too wide to go through my little Titan Planer thicknesser but also too short to go through a bigger thicknesser so I had to get them as flat as I could on the top (jointer), which caused problems as they were not as parallel as they should be. I had a piece left over so turned it to make a matching rolling pin!


----------



## Gavlar

That's really lovely. I dabble with making boards and coasters too but have decided end-grain is too much work. There's a FB group for them and there is some real artistry going on.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

robgul said:


> Hairpin legs are very fashionable - console table and dining table with raw-edge Birch plywood looks good
> View attachment 114035
> 
> View attachment 114036


They first came out in the 1940s due to material shortages from the war.
If it’s a style you like and the end user likes, then that is all that is important. 

Like @Doug71 it is not a style that appeals to me. It fell out of use for understandable reasons. I remember recycling some of the materials in the dim and distant past, never the legs.


----------



## Orraloon

Rodpr said:


> View attachment 114041
> 
> 
> End grain chopping board made from odd pieces. Sections ended up just too wide to go through my little Titan Planer thicknesser but also too short to go through a bigger thicknesser so I had to get them as flat as I could on the top (jointer), which caused problems as they were not as parallel as they should be. I had a piece left over so turned it to make a matching rolling pin!


The rolling pin is a nice touch. Would have been a shame to waste the wood.
Regards
John


----------



## jimchelt

Just a couple of the puzzles I made for my daughter's wedding reception. The Cryptex is obviously based on the one in Dan Brown's 'Da Vinci Code'. The clue at the end reads 'The lady is for turning'. Solve that, dial it in and a tube containing a £20 note slides out. The other is a simple box, about 10x8x8cms, in the face of which is a slot that just takes a £1 coin. The coin inside can only be removed by cunning manipulation of the interior tilting shelf.
Kept the guests busy for hours!


----------



## akirk

Just put the dart board up, and needed somewhere for the chalk and darts to go, so made a shelf with holes for the darts and a routed groove for the chalk - very simple, but as someone who has done very little woodwork before last summer, am quite please with how it worked out.


----------



## Simon89

jimchelt said:


> Just a couple of the puzzles I made for my daughter's wedding reception. The Cryptex is obviously based on the one in Dan Brown's 'Da Vinci Code'. The clue at the end reads 'The lady is for turning'. Solve that, dial it in and a tube containing a £20 note slides out. The other is a simple box, about 10x8x8cms, in the face of which is a slot that just takes a £1 coin. The coin inside can only be removed by cunning manipulation of the interior tilting shelf.
> Kept the guests busy for hours!


Did you follow plans for the box?


----------



## Hallelujahal

Couple of hobby horses knocked up for the grandkids and on my way to drop them off!


----------



## jimchelt

Simon89 said:


> Did you follow plans for the box?


Yes, for both puzzles. Small mods only.


----------



## Garno

First thing I have turned since finishing a 1 day course, half day spent making a bowl and second half of day making 2 pens. Went on course about 2 weeks ago. 1.5 inches x 3 inches


----------



## Padster

Some more pens from the weekend......two acrylic and one from some cork bark I had laying around that I wanted to experiment with.











Regards

Padster


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Nice. Where did you get the kits?


----------



## gregmcateer

Nice pens, Padster.
How did you find it turning cork?


----------



## Garno

Very nice Paddy


----------



## Padster

@Phil Pascoe they will be a mix of Axminster and CS Crafts, the dark blue blue blank is Axi, the cork is obviously exactly that and the other blue blank you may recognise 

Padster


----------



## Padster

@gregmcateer quick but also challenging you need to be careful and there was one big hole I filled with CA & cork dust/shavings, the others I left so you can just see the tube in places.
Then sand carefully and sealed a few extra coats...

Padster


----------



## Droogs

Really like the cork pen @Padster, it would go fantastically well with my cork fedora


----------



## Garno

Where did you get that @Droogs ?

Being a hat wearer myself I have to say I really like it


----------



## Padster

Droogs said:


> Really like the cork pen @Padster, it would go fantastically well with my cork fedora
> 
> View attachment 114302


LOL - @Droogs I didn't even know a cork hat was a 'thing' - but thanks!


----------



## Droogs

Garno said:


> Where did you get that @Droogs ?
> 
> Being a hat wearer myself I have to say I really like it


My fantastic better half purchased it as a birthday pressie when we were on holiday in the Dordogne a few years back. Can't remember which village exactly but do remember you got into it after walking along a hiltop path and then up a very long steep straight street. It was around £70, which we both thought was a great price for such an unusual hat, especially as I have a couple of other Fedoras that cost at least twice that.
It has become my favourite hat and is great in both hot and cold weather keeping me both warm and cool and nicely shaded. Besides it looks epically cool as well and as a woodworker, what else can you wear but a hat made from a tree.


----------



## Roland

I had plans for this week, but my wife demanded a picnic table, and it was an opportunity to try out my new (to me) table saw. This is 100% recycled wood, from our neighbour’s house extension.


----------



## Fitzroy

Roland said:


> I had plans for this week, but my wife demanded a picnic table, and it was an opportunity to try out my new (to me) table saw. This is 100% recycled wood, from our neighbour’s house extension.


Very neatly done, great bit of reuse.


----------



## jimchelt

Padster said:


> Some more pens from the weekend......two acrylic and one from some cork bark I had laying around that I wanted to experiment with.
> 
> View attachment 114279
> 
> 
> View attachment 114280
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster


Nice work! Have you ever tried the Be all Pen Wizard?
Jim


----------



## Padster

jimchelt said:


> Nice work! Have you ever tried the Be all Pen Wizard?
> Jim


Thanks and I can safely say hadn't heard of it - but google is my friend... not sure I'd spend the money on something like that.

Be interested in folks view - I'm only 8 pens into my pen turning!

Padster


----------



## D_W

I've been making a bunch of chisels, but these aren't some of them. 

You often see people say something like "these chisels are decent, but they'd be better with different handles and no lands". 

So, I got a $10 set of imported chisels at the local junk chain here (harbor freight) and they turned out to be decent chisels, and actually usable as they arrive. They aren't LV or LN straight, but straight enough.

I reground them (chasing the side lands down so they could be used for fine work) and replaced their original tiny beech handles with stamped metal parts. 

They are not as hard as super premium chisels, but harder than the typical stanley 5000 or marples blue chip type chisels and they actually hold up just fine once you figure out where the edge likes to be set. They also sharpen super easy and release their wire edge like magic - nothing at all obnoxious about them (they are also better edge holding than new sorby fodder, FWIW, but I think sorby makes their new chisels soft to meet some kind of industrial spec - there's no other reason I could think of that their chisels are so soft. 

As often as I've seen people say "they'd be fine if they were reground and rehandled", I don't think I've seen anyone actually do it. So there! The something for nothing gimmick made complete.


----------



## Jameshow

D_W what did the chisels look like before you supercharged them! 

Look stunning btw. 

Cheers James


----------



## D_W

Thanks, James - they look like this. The side lands are fat and what you'd expect on a chisel from a home centre (though getting them through harbor freight means they'll be a fraction of the price of even those types). You can get an idea of the side lands by looking at how tall and squarish they are at the bevel.

I thought they'd be a decent chrome vanadium type steel with only minimal chromium and vanadium (adding more than is needed to improve hardenability would do nothing but make the rod/bar stock used more expensive, and they wouldn't do that on chisels that are less than $2 each). The interesting thing is that chisels are generally better if they aren't so alloyed up - but what I was intending to do was find their limits and sweet spot rehardening them, but to my surprise, they kind of came already in their sweet spot.







All that said, for $10 out the door in a blister pack with beech handles, who could really complain (i prefer them by miles to the narex types as their edge holding is as good or better and they don't hold on to a wire edge tenaciously).


----------



## Terrytpot

D_W said:


> I've been making a bunch of chisels, but these aren't some of them.
> 
> You often see people say something like "these chisels are decent, but they'd be better with different handles and no lands".
> 
> So, I got a $10 set of imported chisels at the local junk chain here (harbor freight) and they turned out to be decent chisels, and actually usable as they arrive. They aren't LV or LN straight, but straight enough.
> 
> I reground them (chasing the side lands down so they could be used for fine work) and replaced their original tiny beech handles with stamped metal parts.
> 
> They are not as hard as super premium chisels, but harder than the typical stanley 5000 or marples blue chip type chisels and they actually hold up just fine once you figure out where the edge likes to be set. They also sharpen super easy and release their wire edge like magic - nothing at all obnoxious about them (they are also better edge holding than new sorby fodder, FWIW, but I think sorby makes their new chisels soft to meet some kind of industrial spec - there's no other reason I could think of that their chisels are so soft.
> 
> As often as I've seen people say "they'd be fine if they were reground and rehandled", I don't think I've seen anyone actually do it. So there! The something for nothing gimmick made complete.
> 
> View attachment 114424


Nice job,very similar to my Ashley Iles set...


----------



## D_W

Sort of like that, but less taper (the iles chisels are obviously more elegant). The only thing I wished for with the iles chisels was for the 1/4 and perhaps the 3/8ths to be a little taller in cross section up near the bolster.

Of all of the new chisels out there, though, the iles are my favorite and I had a set until a couple of months ago (sold only to free up rack space for newly forged chisels). 

the wider width iles chisels are just divine, though, and I'm only picky because I can just dial up a shape and make it.


----------



## Bristol_Rob

Padster said:


> Some more pens from the weekend......two acrylic and one from some cork bark I had laying around that I wanted to experiment with.
> 
> View attachment 114279
> 
> 
> View attachment 114280
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster



Do you sell your creations?


----------



## kinverkid

Roland said:


> I had plans for this week, but my wife demanded a picnic table, and it was an opportunity to try out my new (to me) table saw. This is 100% recycled wood, from our neighbour’s house extension.


Very nice. Was the drinks order two Pimms and a screwdriver?


----------



## Dave B

I had a go at turning a couple of sycamore bowls approx 11Inch
Still trying to get better tool control to reduce the marks.


----------



## Padster

Bristol_Rob said:


> Do you sell your creations?


@Bristol_Rob I've sent you a PM

Padster


----------



## Farm Labourer

Made from off-cuts of oak from my blanket chests.


----------



## akirk

that is stunning! sadly I don't think we have a tree capable of holding a swing - otherwise...


----------



## kinverkid

This is the second Adirondack chair I've made. I was asked after making the last one if I could make another. This time I added a small side table from the off-cuts. Same as the last one, the recipient will paint them.


----------



## Big Fish

Last two things made are a 19” high kitchen stool for my daughter and 15” platter for my son, other family requests starting to come in now, so more sawdust and shavings will be forthcoming


----------



## Big Fish

Big Fish said:


> Last two things made are a 19” high kitchen stool for my daughter and 15” platter for my son, other family requests starting to come in now, so more sawdust and shavings will be forthcoming


Stool seat and platter are from a solid piece of Brazilian mahogany rescued from a skip from a bar being refurbished in Halifax, around 25 yrs ago, back when I was doing sound installation work. The stool legs are up-cycled mahogany window frame sections given to me to see if I could make use of them.


----------



## Cabinetman

Big Fish said:


> Last two things made are a 19” high kitchen stool for my daughter and 15” platter for my son, other family requests starting to come in now, so more sawdust and shavings will be forthcoming


 Not sure why but the picture of the stool won’t open for me. Nice platter!


----------



## Ozi

Dave B said:


> I had a go at turning a couple of sycamore bowls approx 11Inch
> Still trying to get better tool control to reduce the marks.
> View attachment 114437
> View attachment 114438
> View attachment 114440
> View attachment 114441


Yes those awful marks.... not actually able to see them.... but I'm sure you're ashamed


----------



## Markwfish

After making some cutting boards from all my offcuts of hardwood which i posted on here i then decided to make something from all the offcuts from the boards. A few coasters used up all the board ends


----------



## DennisCA

Broke both my hammers trying to extract a nail. Don't try and pull out nails from nail guns....






Two new shafts made, also the plastic handle on our bread knife broke so I made a new one:


----------



## Big Fish

Cabinetman said:


> Not sure why but the picture of the stool won’t open for me. Nice platter!


Won’t for me either, I’ll add a pic


----------



## matkinitice

Finished this a couple of months back for my daughters 2nd birthday as opposed to buying one of those kiddie chairs from Ikea.






Meranti, Danish oil finish. All mortice and tenon joniery. My first time using dedicated mortice chisels which was great.

In an ideal world I would have experimented with bent lamination for the rear legs but I had to knock this together in just under a week. So one for next time.

Also played around with a spoke shave for the first time. Pretty poor overall but that was my ability rather than the tool - it made a great round over to the front of the seat.

Anyway she loves it and it is also great for colouring in, both when sitting on or the actual chair itself!


----------



## Padster

Continuing the Pen Theme.... and finally no blemishes in the acrylic!












Padster


----------



## Phil Pascoe

What abrasives do you use? I don't use beyond 180g dry, from there on it's w&d. Fifteen grits, not much more than a wipe with each - by the time 12,000 is reached there isn't really that much to gain from buffing polishes. I use pads for all the fine ones (about £9 a set), and find that by the time I stop the lathe and look to see whether I could skip a grade it's quicker just to have done it, necessary or not. A recycled spray (kitchen cleaners etc.) full of water is useful.


----------



## Padster

Phil Pascoe said:


> What abrasives do you use? I don't use beyond 180g dry, from there on it's w&d. Fifteen grits, not much more than a wipe with each - by the time 12,000 is reached there isn't really that much to gain from buffing polishes. I use pads for all the fine ones (about £9 a set), and find that by the time I stop the lathe and look to see whether I could skip a grade it's quicker just to have done it, necessary or not. A recycled spray (kitchen cleaners etc.) full of water is useful.


I moved away from anything other than the micro mesh pads this time and it has worked much better, like you say I actually don't bother stopping between grades, but just run my fingers over them in between grades.

Padster


----------



## D_W

Finished two of the first set of 8 chisels, more firmer in weight. Big bolsters forge welded as someone asked if I could make them chisels that would be used with 18th century style handles (so the bolsters are also kind of big and flat to leave some meat in place where there would otherwise have been a ferrule). 

(chisels in the back are just old english parers). There's no huge significance with these chisels except they are the first set of chisels I've made playing with shop heat treatment techniques that will probably match old W&P chisels, and they're still plenty hard and not chippy). 

They're made of a steel called 26c3, which is a 1.25% carbon steel that's by spec "almost as clean" as japanese white steel, but the batch that this bar stock came from is 20 times cleaner than the hitachi white steel spec (so the manufacturer's actual spec is almost meaningless - the sulfur trace is 1/30th of their allowed level). In short, it's really clean and the grain structure is very fine as long as you don't do something to increase the grain size (like overheating it and leaving it overheated for a while). 

They're freehand bevel ground and then hand finished (glazed) with loose silicon carbide on a wood block. The two black patches are just my initials in one box and "26" in another so that I can remember what they're made of if anyone ever asks.


----------



## Markwfish

They look fantastic! Nice chisels, good work.


----------



## Markwfish

Out of interest, are the tangs forge welded to the chisel blade? Of the same material just normalised or are the tangs a different material? I think they look great!


----------



## D_W

The tangs are straight through (all but the slid on bolster is one piece of steel). The bolster is just a piece of mild steel that's stretched on to the tang (at high heat, obviously - the bolster is heated and the tang not, or it would be like hammering spaghetti) and then heated high and forge welded on and then ground and filed to shape. With a good cutting torch, this is actually pretty easy. However, cutting torches seem to like cutting and brazing, but sitting in a high heat environment to supplement heat in a forge - they don't like that so much. Coal forge isn't going to happen with my spouse, but it's technically not legal where I live, anyway (we're not supposed to burn anything but clean wood). 

The higher carbon steel is, the lower temperature it forge welds, but I have some concern over time that if the bolster isn't a bit pliable/stretchy that it may split. I can tolerate some of them moving a little and getting stuck further down the tang, but hope to never get anything back with a broken one!

(bevels a bit funny on the next two because they're not fully established yet. You can see that the bolster has been filed down to the tang better on this picture, but what looks like it may be a gap is actually just the result of safe cornering a file (like adding a safe edge and then removing the corner, too, as that will just cut into the tang and leave grooves). the bigger the bolster ,the flatter it is and my safe corners are a bit too big and leave a little scuzz at the transition there that I'll have to clean up.


----------



## TRITON

Have you tried or thought about sockets on the chisels. They are supposedly stronger.

I will add though I have a set of Lie Nielsen ones and do find the sockets to be a bit of a pain, in that they have a habit of having the handle easily loosen and fall on the floor. Can't think of how many times I've had to bend down and pick the darn things up  ,but I do see they're a better system and allow handles to be more easily changed and you can swap from short to longer handles for more control


----------



## Markwfish

Too easily by the sounds of it!


----------



## D_W

No, not a fan of sockets. They make chisels unnecessarily heavy in the center, and you can get the same strength (probably better) just starting with heavier stock and making a heavy tang. 

I started with socket chisels, and made some long handles, etc, but I think there's a good reason you don't see push chisels made with long handles and short blades (vs. the English type in the picture above). Ultimately, I never used the long handles, and then sold all of the socket chisels. Just a preference. 

No harm in light contact cement in your handle tenons to keep the chisels on the handles. The type of wood that LN uses is smooth and doesn't compress much, too, and there's no internal roughness like there is in a lot of older handles. 

maybe you just need to put some salt water in them and get them to rust!


----------



## Hallelujahal

Bench on a bench!

I’m a bit embarrassed to post this but would appreciate any further suggestions.

I have the woodworking skill set of a schoolboy at best and have recently started trying to make things in wood 

So I want to make a workbench, and knowing the limit of my abilities I decided today to make up a small sized model of the sort of bench that I’d like. Using a few roofing battens I’ve made the bench pictured. I wanted to keep it simple, but able to allow me to plane and generally use hand tools to make some toys etc for the grandkids.


----------



## NickDReed

Wellie store made from recycled oak floorboards, nowt special but God it feels good to get those boots out of my garage!!


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

NickDReed said:


> Wellie store made from recycled oak floorboards


@NickDReed Looks good though I don't quite understand how it works. Does the top rail pull out to disclose some devious welly holders?
Martin


----------



## D_W

Hallelujahal said:


> I have the woodworking skill set of a schoolboy at best



welcome to the club - we're all just guessing (well, some people on here are accomplished and confident, but most of us are guessing).


----------



## NickDReed

D_W said:


> welcome to the club - we're all just guessing (well, some people on here are accomplished and confident, but most of us are guessing).


Ti's wisardry!! 


or dowels


----------



## NickDReed

NickDReed said:


> Ti's wisardry!! View attachment 114782
> or dowels


Wrong post


----------



## NickDReed

MorrisWoodman12 said:


> @NickDReed Looks good though I don't quite understand how it works. Does the top rail pull out to disclose some devious welly holders?
> Martin


Hi Martin!!

See my other post


----------



## Nigel Taylor

enamel signs hot out of the kiln






I'm using WG Ball base coat for steel


----------



## Hallelujahal

D_W said:


> welcome to the club - we're all just guessing (well, some people on here are accomplished and confident, but most of us are guessing).


Thanks DW


----------



## WoodchipWilbur

Hallelujahal said:


> Bench on a bench!
> 
> I’m a bit embarrassed to post this but would appreciate any further suggestions.
> 
> I have the woodworking skill set of a schoolboy at best and have recently started trying to make things in wood
> 
> So I want to make a workbench, and knowing the limit of my abilities I decided today to make up a small sized model of the sort of bench that I’d like. Using a few roofing battens I’ve made the bench pictured. I wanted to keep it simple, but able to allow me to plane and generally use hand tools to make some toys etc for the grandkids.


My Dad (rest his soul) had a single word for work benches. *Triangulation*. However good your joinery skills (and especially if they aren't!) , the joints on a bench will work and move a bit - and lo! You have a wobbly bench. (Hands up those on here who like working on a wobbly bench...) He would always add trianulation pieces to the back and sides to stop that.

I don't think I have ever used triangulation pieces on any of my workbenches - but I have always screwed a piece of sheet material which does the same thing. 

<Old man's ramble>

Even the little 3' long "traditional" joiners' bench I made for when I was doing exhibitions had the same - acted as a sort of modesty panel and was also excellent display space. On those little stands that cost an arm and a leg, you need to use whatever space you can! - but I digress... That 3' bench was hugely useful though. On retirement and a move to 10sqm of workspace, it was banished outdoors - where it rotted. Sadly missed though.

</Old man's ramble>


----------



## Hallelujahal

WoodchipWilbur said:


> My Dad (rest his soul) had a single word for work benches. *Triangulation*. However good your joinery skills (and especially if they aren't!) , the joints on a bench will work and move a bit - and lo! You have a wobbly bench. (Hands up those on here who like working on a wobbly bench...) He would always add trianulation pieces to the back and sides to stop that.
> 
> I don't think I have ever used triangulation pieces on any of my workbenches - but I have always screwed a piece of sheet material which does the same thing.
> 
> <Old man's ramble>
> 
> Even the little 3' long "traditional" joiners' bench I made for when I was doing exhibitions had the same - acted as a sort of modesty panel and was also excellent display space. On those little stands that cost an arm and a leg, you need to use whatever space you can! - but I digress... That 3' bench was hugely useful though. On retirement and a move to 10sqm of workspace, it was banished outdoors - where it rotted. Sadly missed though.
> 
> </Old man's ramble>



Dear Wilbur, yes! Triangulation is what it needs, many thanks for pointing out 
Al


----------



## sometimewoodworker

WoodchipWilbur said:


> My Dad (rest his soul) had a single word for work benches. *Triangulation*. However good your joinery skills (and especially if they aren't!) , the joints on a bench will work and move a bit - and lo! You have a wobbly bench. (Hands up those on here who like working on a wobbly bench...) He would always add trianulation pieces to the back and sides to stop that.
> 
> I don't think I have ever used triangulation pieces on any of my workbenches - but I have always screwed a piece of sheet material which does the same thing.


Humm. That is certainly a good way to get stability, but not the only one.
What I have is a bench that is a knockdown one but on steroids, the 2 end pieces have joints that will never work or move the glue surface is just too big (double M/T that are 10cm x 10cm each so 800sq cm per end) then the long rails are attached with 30cm coach bolts and the top held down with wall plate J bolts. The whole thing is probably over 100kg with storage underneath the top, it’s also on wheels so that reduces the racking forces.


----------



## WoodchipWilbur

sometimewoodworker said:


> Humm. That is certainly a good way to get stability, but not the only one.
> What I have is a bench that is a knockdown one but on steroids, the 2 end pieces have joints that will never work or move the glue surface is just too big (double M/T that are 10cm x 10cm each so 800sq cm per end) then the long rails are attached with 30cm coach bolts and the top held down with wall plate J bolts. The whole thing is probably over 100kg with storage underneath the top, it’s also on wheels so that reduces the racking forces.



Steroids, indeed! But your photo looks to show just the sort of panels I'm talking about, both down the long side (with French cleats attached) and the end (complete with nifty paper towel holders)
(For me, the thought of a bench that size, taking off across the floor like Torville and Dean doesn't appeal though.)


----------



## Callum

Made another chopping board as a gift for family. Nice and thick this one. Made from walnut, cherry and maple.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

WoodchipWilbur said:


> My Dad (rest his soul) had a single word for work benches. *Triangulation*. However good your joinery skills (and especially if they aren't!) , the joints on a bench will work and move a bit - and lo! You have a wobbly bench ...



Mine has no apron and the heavy top is supported only at the ends. Mine is stable because 1/ the rails are 5 inches deep (morticed, glued and pegged) and 2/ they are deliberately at different heights from front to back so it can't rack. The shelf in the bottom is fixed from the top of the front rail to a quadrant near the bottom on the rear rail.


----------



## Pineapple

Hallelujahal said:


> Bench on a bench!
> 
> I’m a bit embarrassed to post this but would appreciate any further suggestions.
> 
> I have the woodworking skill set of a schoolboy at best and have recently started trying to make things in wood
> 
> So I want to make a workbench, and knowing the limit of my abilities I decided today to make up a small sized model of the sort of bench that I’d like. Using a few roofing battens I’ve made the bench pictured. I wanted to keep it simple, but able to allow me to plane and generally use hand tools to make some toys etc for the grandkids.







__





Woodworking Quick Release Vices | Next Day Delivery


Lifetime Warranty. Class Leading Clamping Force. Precision CNC Machined Grey Iron Castings. Quick Release Mechanism. Made By World Leading Vice Manufacturer. Epoxy Powder Coated Finish.




www.rutlands.com


----------



## Amateur




----------



## Amateur

It gives me no pleasure having to use pine/redwood.
The tasks involved to make stuff isnt the problem but finishing is a pain.
I find it disturbing that people want this sort of stuff instead of a nice piece of oak or mahogany.
This bookcase isnt finished yet.
Already its had two coats of wood dye, several coats of danish oil and now requires some poly to toughen the surface. 
The problems with staining pine, despite what anyone says are as long as my arm. You can watch YT till your blue in the face but the twelve inch squares they show you how to do it on are no reflection of a real build.
Anyway thats my grumble.
Its not for me. The guy loves it so thats all that matters.


----------



## Just4Fun

Ignore: Crossed post


----------



## Cabinetman

I think you ought to change your name, that’s not amateurish at all! 
I know what you mean about pine, it does have its place though – usually underneath paint. That wasn’t said entirely seriously I enjoyed working with it when it’s a decent piece of wood.


----------



## Garno

Callum said:


> Made another chopping board as a gift for family. Nice and thick this one. Made from walnut, cherry and maple.
> View attachment 114852
> View attachment 114853



The more I look at that the more I like it


----------



## Naylom

Made this recently on a months long course in Wales


----------



## Padster

So this is my first attempt at a pen using a home-made blank from various offcuts in the workshop glued and layered then turned...









Padster


----------



## jim1950

finished this yesterday from next doors Cherry Laurel, now on to four full sized pine panelled doors, retirement what retirement.


----------



## Garno

jim1950 said:


> finished this yesterday from next doors Cherry Laurel, now on to four full sized pine panelled doors, retirement what retirement.



I like that a lot Jim. Way ahead of my skill level but I will soon get there


----------



## RogerM

Built this booze unit for my nephew and his wife to their spec. Birch ply carcase, oak veneered back and bar top, and beech and mdf doors.


----------



## Baldwyn

This


----------



## Rodpr

Baldwyn said:


> This
> View attachment 115015


Is the little one for a puppy?


----------



## Baldwyn

I made a scale model to take the measurements from  good idea though...


----------



## jim1950

Garno said:


> I like that a lot Jim. Way ahead of my skill level but I will soon get there


Thanks Garno but my skill level on the lathe is not take great believe me, I just try a lot and swear a lot


----------



## Markwfish

Love it! Got 2 of those, similar, one from Anchorage & one ftom Capetown, beautiful, good work.


----------



## MarkAW

RogerM said:


> Built this booze unit for my nephew and his wife to their spec. Birch ply carcase, oak veneered back and bar top, and beech and mdf doors.


Nice. Is that it's final place? as that radiator behind will probably do nasty things to the wood


----------



## stuckinthemud

Crossbow, yew/sinew 75lb prod, hawthorn tiller inlaid with bone, antler and water buffalo horn. Have posted a thread about it in 'projects '


----------



## Padster

Yet another pen - you may guess I have the bug a little.... 

This time the pen is made from Burr Oak special thanks to @Phil Pascoe 






Padster


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

What was supposed to be a fairly straightforward dog shaped bandsaw box turned into me taking a very therapeutic dive into attempting my first ever proper carving. It’s a money box for my mates first baby. I’ve sunk 50+ hours into this, so it’s a bloody good thing I started over a month before the due date!! 

It’s made of Welsh Cherry, with a Bloodwood tongue and African Blackwood eyes & nose. The mortise lock mechanism is from the following link, very good quality so wont hesitate to get others of the same brand - but I made the receiver bit from a flat plate of brass.





1 Lever Cut Cupboard Lock - Locks & Hardware Direct


Buy 1 Lever Cut Cupboard Lock online today. Free delivery on all orders over £60. Order before 5PM for next day delivery.




locksandhardwaredirect.co.uk





The tail is waggable, and the key also has a secret hiding place 

Apart from sanding the inside shape of the body, not a single piece of sandpaper has touched the main body… I just love the gouged textured surface! Apart from the overall roughed out shape the main body, legs and tail are all carved by hand using a combination of fret saw, Shinto saw rasp and a variety of carving chisels/gouges (which I finally found an excuse to use them for more than just cutting out letters for inlaying)


----------



## Padster

So I made another pen, but thought that they actually look good together as pair....






Padster


----------



## Orraloon

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> What was supposed to be a fairly straightforward dog shaped bandsaw box turned into me taking a very therapeutic dive into attempting my first ever proper carving. It’s a money box for my mates first baby. I’ve sunk 50+ hours into this, so it’s a bloody good thing I started over a month before the due date!!
> 
> It’s made of Welsh Cherry, with a Bloodwood tongue and African Blackwood eyes & nose. The mortise lock mechanism is from the following link, very good quality so wont hesitate to get others of the same brand - but I made the receiver bit from a flat plate of brass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 Lever Cut Cupboard Lock - Locks & Hardware Direct
> 
> 
> Buy 1 Lever Cut Cupboard Lock online today. Free delivery on all orders over £60. Order before 5PM for next day delivery.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> locksandhardwaredirect.co.uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tail is waggable, and the key also has a secret hiding place
> 
> Apart from sanding the inside shape of the body, not a single piece of sandpaper has touched the main body… I just love the gouged textured surface! Apart from the overall roughed out shape the main body, legs and tail are all carved by hand using a combination of fret saw, Shinto saw rasp and a variety of carving chisels/gouges (which I finally found an excuse to use them for more than just cutting out letters for inlaying)
> 
> View attachment 115148
> 
> 
> View attachment 115137
> 
> 
> View attachment 115138
> 
> 
> View attachment 115131
> 
> 
> View attachment 115139
> 
> 
> View attachment 115136
> 
> 
> View attachment 115133
> 
> 
> View attachment 115134
> 
> 
> View attachment 115135
> 
> 
> View attachment 115132


You see so many great things made on this forum but that dog is up there with the best of them. Very original design features and the key location is a real winner. Cheered up this locked down day for me.
Regards
John


----------



## Cabinetman

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> What was supposed to be a fairly straightforward dog shaped bandsaw box turned into me taking a very therapeutic dive into attempting my first ever proper carving. It’s a money box for my mates first baby. I’ve sunk 50+ hours into this, so it’s a bloody good thing I started over a month before the due date!!
> 
> It’s made of Welsh Cherry, with a Bloodwood tongue and African Blackwood eyes & nose. The mortise lock mechanism is from the following link, very good quality so wont hesitate to get others of the same brand - but I made the receiver bit from a flat plate of brass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 Lever Cut Cupboard Lock - Locks & Hardware Direct
> 
> 
> Buy 1 Lever Cut Cupboard Lock online today. Free delivery on all orders over £60. Order before 5PM for next day delivery.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> locksandhardwaredirect.co.uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tail is waggable, and the key also has a secret hiding place
> 
> Apart from sanding the inside shape of the body, not a single piece of sandpaper has touched the main body… I just love the gouged textured surface! Apart from the overall roughed out shape the main body, legs and tail are all carved by hand using a combination of fret saw, Shinto saw rasp and a variety of carving chisels/gouges (which I finally found an excuse to use them for more than just cutting out letters for inlaying)
> 
> View attachment 115148
> 
> 
> View attachment 115137
> 
> 
> View attachment 115138
> 
> 
> View attachment 115131
> 
> 
> View attachment 115139
> 
> 
> View attachment 115136
> 
> 
> View attachment 115133
> 
> 
> View attachment 115134
> 
> 
> View attachment 115135
> 
> 
> View attachment 115132


Really like this, and as you say no sandpaper, most people would’ve ruined it, I’m sure the child will treasure it for years and years. Ian


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Padster said:


> So I made another pen, but thought that they actually look good together as pair....
> 
> View attachment 115155
> 
> 
> Padster











Jenkins Jecofil Grain Filler 500g


<p><strong>Jenkins Jecofil Grain Filler</strong> is an oil based thixotropic grain filler available in seven different colours and is widely used by the furniture restoration trade.</p> <p>Jenkins Jecofil Grain Filler is a medium '<em><strong>mud'</strong></em> like consistency, enabling easy...




restexpress.co.uk




If you are going to do a lot of wooden ones, this stuff is brilliant. Expensive, but it'll probably last you for ever.


----------



## D_W

Sorry to bombard with the same set of chisels - finally finished them yesterday. Not that there's that much difference between them and others that I've made (except the big bolsters to be handled in an older style without a metal ferrule).

But making 8 of them freehand and trying to get them to be relatively the same and somewhat close to 1/8th intervals....it's a relief to be done!


----------



## Cabinetman

They are beautiful chisels ( Doug?) Can’t wait to see them with the handles on – turned please I’ll send you the address ha ha
What is the width of the largest one by the way?


----------



## Markwfish

Beautifull! Love to see them with the handles on


----------



## D_W

Cabinetman said:


> They are beautiful chisels ( Doug?) Can’t wait to see them with the handles on – turned please I’ll send you the address ha ha
> What is the width of the largest one by the way?



They're 1/8th to 1" in 1/8th intervals (roughly, depending on the laziness of the maker). I always make them a tiny bit wide, except the narrowest chisel, to allow for a little warping and regrind or removal of little dents. 

I made them for a plane maker here in North America, and he wants to handle them himself (which I'm perfectly fine with, of course - I'm not a professional maker and pretty much charge the cost of materials in the chisels and consumed items to make them. It'd be hard to justify continuing to make them if I didn't at least recover the materials costs - which for a set like this is something like $100 because of the specialty steel used, and because I do a lot of belt grinding, finishing and filing - industrially now, they'd be squashed closer to finished shape in a couple of dies). 

If I had access to third world drill rod (I'd bet the 1% crV drill rod sold in china is still good even though it's cheap), I could make chisels really cheaply. Even silver steel rod from the UK would be lots cheaper. 

(I do like to make the more modern turned handle with ferrule, though - it allows for a smaller bolster, which is easier to keep straight and flat when forge welding, and then if the weld ever gives up, the ferrule holds everything together).


----------



## D_W

Markwfish said:


> Beautifull! Love to see them with the handles on



me, too! They're going to a planemaker named Darryl Gent. If he posts them, we'll get to see them. I hope he does, because he does just about the neatest and cleanest work you'll ever see. He'll have his hands full matching handles tightly to the bolsters on these chisels as some of them have a little left or right english. Not a lot, but enough that the handles can't just be cut off square to get a completely gap free look.


----------



## RichardG

Bandsaw Blade Holder

Finally had enough of sorting blades out when they get tangled after sitting in a drawer. Probably not good for the blades either.

The little trough in the bottom made handy bin for the vacuum accessories.


----------



## D_W

I have to second the comments above - after relief of finishing the set of chisels, logging in and seeing the dog above is just super. There's so much good work posted here by everyone and in such good spirit, but the dog is like hearing a new guitar riff that you've never heard before. It's just grand!


----------



## D_W

Cabinetman said:


> They are beautiful chisels ( Doug?)



Dave, by the way, but doug is good enough. if I ever got cranky about someone getting my name wrong, I'd get struck by lightning within 5 seconds.


----------



## Farm Labourer

Love the simplicity of the bandsaw storage unit. I shall shamelessly plagiarise!


----------



## WoodchipWilbur

Farm Labourer said:


> Love the simplicity of the bandsaw storage unit. I shall shamelessly plagiarise!


... and me! (making it as we speak - except it's lunchchtime...)


----------



## RichardG

Had several off cuts of the thin ply left so fabricated a similar holder for the table saw. Just used the spare strips of the ply as spacers…whereas on the bandsaw holder I used the same strips on edge…


----------



## Hallelujahal

Pressie for me Mam turned today


----------



## RichC

Probably not the last thing I made, but something that keeps coming back to be re-made. Used to have a little sideline making stuff like this. This particular one got passed around and every new owner wanted a new knot fitting, it’s had black badger, two band badger and a synthetic knot or two fitted over the years.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Hallelujahal said:


> Pressie for me Mam turned today


That's encouraging: I also have a Clarke lathe, so I really ought to be able to do the same. You seem to be way ahead of me in ability.


----------



## ScottandSargeant




----------



## Just4Fun

RichC said:


> This particular one got passed around and every new owner wanted a new knot fitting, it’s had black badger, two band badger and a synthetic knot or two fitted over the years.


Is there a commercial market for badger hair? We occasionally have badger problems and some guys from the local hunting club always come and sort it out for us free of charge. They have even turned up unsolicited to check if more badgers have found a des res under our outbuildings. As they dispose of the corpses I assume they are making money out of it on the back end. (I have no problem with that.)


----------



## RichC

There is, pretty much everything on the market comes from China where I believe it is farmed commercially


----------



## robgul

ScottandSargeant said:


> View attachment 115332


Just needs some rails and it would be a Monet !


----------



## Richard Berry

Here are a couple of recently completed lathe projects.


----------



## Stigmorgan

I've been having great fun making bowls/pots lately, I posted one of them a few weeks ago, since then I've made a small cup sized one from oak which seemed to take great delight in reminding me why it's called iron wood sometimes, I'm currently working on a piece of cherry wood, it's a very frustrating piece of wood to work, ive got it to a shape and wall thickness I'm happy with, now to start sanding, not sure what finish to use on it, I currently have teak oil, bees wax and varnish, or would you fine gents suggest something else? I will be transferring my logo onto the bottom.


----------



## ScottandSargeant

robgul said:


> Just needs some rails and it would be a Monet !


i need to do something about the Covid like pond weed and get some lillies in!


----------



## dgethin

A nighttime spectacle holder, as a request from my daughte!


----------



## danst96

Made some furniture for a "zoom room" for my current employer. Table, TV table and display unit all part of it. Made my life difficult by going with a endgrain detail down the middle of table which is part of the leg assembly but it worked out quite nice. Bit of touching up on the wall needed from when I put the logo up. My little send off project for them as I relocate to Canada in 2 weeks time. Finally!


----------



## Markwfish

Canada?!! Envious, the land of nice wood, plentiful & not extorsionately priced!
Nice work, good luck with your move.


----------



## danst96

Markwfish said:


> Canada?!! Envious, the land of nice wood, plentiful & not extorsionately priced!
> Nice work, good luck with your move.


Thank you!


----------



## fezman

danst96 said:


> Thank you!


Good luck with the move Dan
Hope you will post your new shop build on here

Nice furniture btw


----------



## danst96

fezman said:


> Good luck with the move Dan
> Hope you will post your new shop build on here
> 
> Nice furniture btw


Thanks Ian. Definitely will share the new shop, I'm going to be in a couple or temporary ones for a while so proper shop build may only be next year.

Thanks again.


----------



## Hornbeam

I found this muddy log floating down the river, which was a bit rotten but full of burr.




Turned out to be birch. Enough for 3 or 4 items
Birch bowl. 7 inch diameter 3inch deep. Finished with danish oil and then wax


----------



## Doug B

Got asked by a friend to make a bird house using slate from his late father’s property in Anglesey, the design was taken from a photo






The house is made from off cuts of Sweet Chestnut the base recycled decking.
The lead is held in place by two tabs burned into the top piece.






It’s a replacement for a previous bird house so I popped over & installed it this morning.


----------



## Peri

Full size chessboard - from salvaged firedoors and some maple I actually bought


----------



## mikej460

Markwfish said:


> Canada?!! Envious, the land of nice wood, plentiful & not extorsionately priced!
> Nice work, good luck with your move.


and beetles...still all you need is love eh? Very nice furniture btw


----------



## Hallelujahal

First venture into turning a twig pot…
I can see all it’s faults and failings but missus loves it so


----------



## rob1693

New workbench made from mostly recycled skip found timber


----------



## hog&amp;bodge

Have been cleaning up the small Pine coffee table for someone, they have asked me to 
insert tiles into the table top.
After all the sanding I did to make the top flat & dent free..lol
Any way have not done this before, has anyone got any ideas of
what type of glue I should use. I think grout is out of the question. also
what about table movement will it affect the tiles.?
You can see what state the table was in by the rail, had to put the legs on the 
lathe clean them up.

Is it me or is it to busy with all them tiles in the top.


----------



## MARK.B.

Flexible tile adhesive/no more nails, you will probably need to grout in some form between the tiles or the gaps will fill with rubbish or coffee whichever comes first, a bright grout like a red would set off those tiles nicely. Not my cup of tea look wise but if its what the customer wants then go with it.Are you going to inset them into the top ?.


----------



## Jameshow

rob1693 said:


> New workbench made from mostly recycled skip found timber


Which skips do you dive in?? 

Lovely! 

Cheers James


----------



## Markwfish

I bedded some marble pieces in an oak table once, cut them in nice & tight, they had sharp square edges unlike those with a round edge. Used a clear construction adhesive like EB25 or sticks like s..t. Didnt have gaps to worry about, the polyurethane finish filled what gaps there were.


----------



## rob1693

Jameshow said:


> Which skips do you dive in??
> 
> Lovely!
> 
> Cheers James


Legs were 80 year old door liners stripped of paint cut up to rebate and laminated gave me 3 1/2 square Legs rails were timber I already had main slab was an 8 x 3 roof joist from someone's attic who were having dormer again stripped of paint and laminated gave me a 14 x 2 3/4 aprons found some 8 x 1 1/2 reclaimed timber on facebook marketplace local at £4 a board well got some 3x2 of same guy at £2 a length entire build about £40 with glue I used obviously lots of hours hand planing and making but I learnt a lot making and my joints improved as I went along.these ar the bits left from my starting materials


----------



## Jameshow

rob1693 said:


> Legs were 80 year old door liners stripped of paint cut up to rebate and laminated gave me 3 1/2 square Legs rails were timber I already had main slab was an 8 x 3 roof joist from someone's attic who were having dormer again stripped of paint and laminated gave me a 14 x 2 3/4 aprons found some 8 x 1 1/2 reclaimed timber on facebook marketplace local at £4 a board well got some 3x2 of same guy at £2 a length entire build about £40 with glue I used obviously lots of hours hand planing and making but I learnt a lot making and my joints improved as I went along.these ar the bits left from my starting materials


Good finds!!! 

Cheers James


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> What was supposed to be a fairly straightforward dog shaped bandsaw box turned into me taking a very therapeutic dive into attempting my first ever proper carving. It’s a money box for my mates first baby. I’ve sunk 50+ hours into this, so it’s a bloody good thing I started over a month before the due date!!
> 
> It’s made of Welsh Cherry, with a Bloodwood tongue and African Blackwood eyes & nose. The mortise lock mechanism is from the following link, very good quality so wont hesitate to get others of the same brand - but I made the receiver bit from a flat plate of brass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 Lever Cut Cupboard Lock - Locks & Hardware Direct
> 
> 
> Buy 1 Lever Cut Cupboard Lock online today. Free delivery on all orders over £60. Order before 5PM for next day delivery.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> locksandhardwaredirect.co.uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tail is waggable, and the key also has a secret hiding place
> 
> Apart from sanding the inside shape of the body, not a single piece of sandpaper has touched the main body… I just love the gouged textured surface! Apart from the overall roughed out shape the main body, legs and tail are all carved by hand using a combination of fret saw, Shinto saw rasp and a variety of carving chisels/gouges (which I finally found an excuse to use them for more than just cutting out letters for inlaying)
> 
> View attachment 115148
> 
> 
> View attachment 115137
> 
> 
> View attachment 115138
> 
> 
> View attachment 115131
> 
> 
> View attachment 115139
> 
> 
> View attachment 115136
> 
> 
> View attachment 115133
> 
> 
> View attachment 115134
> 
> 
> View attachment 115135
> 
> 
> View attachment 115132



For those who are interested, I’ve just posted a bunch of photos and explained the process of making this dog money box…









Carved Dog Shaped Moneybox from Welsh Cherry, African Blackwood and Bloodwood


Apologies in advance for the verbal diarrhoea, but i thought it best to get the describing out the way and then just post all the photos in the rough order it was all done, so feel free to skip the writing and go straight to the photos. My mate has just had his first child, so to mark the...




www.ukworkshop.co.uk


----------



## Paul555

Not so much photo's of the last thing I made...more a reflection on the passing of time and an observation. I used to be able to knock up stuff like this part-time in my little workshop, but age creeps up on us all, so I jacked it in not longer after I retired from full time shift work, gave away most of my tools 'n stuff to people who could use 'em and settled into a nice easy life. Cutting our big hedge yesterday I chopped straight through a bird's nest...unoccupied thankfully, but I cut it in half. 2 bits, still solid, and it got me thinking....how the heck do these birds manage to build something like that?? I've got all the time in the world, opposing thumbs and 4 fingers etc. but if you sat me down in front of a hedge and said "Go on, make one of those...use whatever tools you like" I wouldn't come anywhere close.


----------



## Cordy

Planters made from decking


----------



## Jameshow

I


Cordy said:


> Planters made from decking
> View attachment 115808
> 
> View attachment 115809
> 
> View attachment 115810
> 
> View attachment 115811
> View attachment 115812


 Have a freind who does cnc decking planters which I find an eclectic combination! 

Cheers James


----------



## Cordy

James
Have you any photos or plans of the planters made by your friend ?
Thanks - John


----------



## rob1693

Love the planters have quite a few offcuts of decking, I shall be having a go at some myself


----------



## Jonzjob

Well, my latest and it seems that my balls are multiplying?






Left is mine beech and cedar. Right is a commission, black walnut and beech and the ball is because I like turning balls. Not sure what wood that is?


----------



## clogs

Paul55, 
seen these in real life......there are many different species that make even more complicated nests...
"All hanging by a thread"......hahaha....




even a humming birds nest is special...
I just love it......
that's apart from the mouse nest in my electrical spares drawer.....hahaha...


----------



## Jameshow

A bike store using new circular saw from rob....

Cheers Rob....

Still work to do. 

Cheers James


----------



## Droogs

Seems a bit of a drastic way to get your bike to fit in an ottoman, resorting to a circular saw


----------



## Amateur

Markwfish said:


> Canada?!! Envious, the land of nice wood, plentiful & not extorsionately priced!
> Nice work, good luck with your move.


Not quite true if you read about the timber shortage and price increases. Canada has reduced the amount of trees planted to keep up with demand.


----------



## Markwfish

Yes i have; 2" x 4" has gone up in price 50% over the last year. Comparatively tho, maple, black walnut to name but two are far cheaper!


----------



## Amateur

A small fly box.


----------



## Amateur




----------



## Amateur




----------



## pulleyt

This was a change from the small scale ornament curiosities that I've been making over the last year. 
We recently created a dining room and moved in the accompanying dining table from the kitchen where it had always been a tight squeeze, especially when extended to seat eight. This meant, of course, that we had no table in the kitchen and it is somewhere we like to sit and look out on the garden. Mostly, there are just the two of us at home these days so a table that was comfortable for two and extendable to four would suit well.







I eventually decided on an oval drop leaf table (in maple as I still have a fair bit left over from a kitchen project many years ago) and using rule joints for the drop down leaves. The rule joint took a few practice attempts in some scrap 18mm mdf to get them right, well to get it working at least. And even then I miscalculated the width of the centre panel as I forgot to allow for the leaves dropping back under the centre panel by 12mm on each side . This meant I had to cut the panel in half and insert another narrow strip to widen it which you may be able to make out by the grain variations.






The supports for the leaves are bars that pull out from the table frame and are held in place by the table top. Stop blocks on the other end of each bar to the small knob limit the distance the bars can be pulled out.






I'll be honest, I prefer the small ornamental work but I'm happy with the result!


----------



## TRITON

A very nice table, such a traditional style


----------



## Hallelujahal

Egg cup that my 7 year old granddaughter insisted on helping me to make! So happy to be able to teach her the little that I know


----------



## MarkAW

Amateur said:


> Canada has reduced the amount of trees planted to keep up with demand.


How does that work?


----------



## Orraloon

pulleyt said:


> This was a change from the small scale ornament curiosities that I've been making over the last year.
> We recently created a dining room and moved in the accompanying dining table from the kitchen where it had always been a tight squeeze, especially when extended to seat eight. This meant, of course, that we had no table in the kitchen and it is somewhere we like to sit and look out on the garden. Mostly, there are just the two of us at home these days so a table that was comfortable for two and extendable to four would suit well.
> 
> View attachment 115961
> 
> 
> 
> I eventually decided on an oval drop leaf table (in maple as I still have a fair bit left over from a kitchen project many years ago) and using rule joints for the drop down leaves. The rule joint took a few practice attempts in some scrap 18mm mdf to get them right, well to get it working at least. And even then I miscalculated the width of the centre panel as I forgot to allow for the leaves dropping back under the centre panel by 12mm on each side . This meant I had to cut the panel in half and insert another narrow strip to widen it which you may be able to make out by the grain variations.
> 
> View attachment 115962
> 
> 
> The supports for the leaves are bars that pull out from the table frame and are held in place by the table top. Stop blocks on the other end of each bar to the small knob limit the distance the bars can be pulled out.
> 
> View attachment 115963
> 
> 
> I'll be honest, I prefer the small ornamental work but I'm happy with the result!


A smart looking table. Nicely done. I would not have noticed the extra strip if you had not mentioned it either.
Regards
John


----------



## deafgeoff

After watching a YouTube video about off center turning, I decided to try is and this the result. I started with a sandwich of oak and mahogany glued together with PVA wood glue.


----------



## Daniel2

deafgeoff said:


> After watching a YouTube video about off center turning, I decided to try is and this the result. I started with a sandwich of oak and mahogany glued together with PVA wood glue.View attachment 115997
> View attachment 115998
> View attachment 115999
> View attachment 116000



That's a really good effect. I like it a lot.


----------



## Amateur

MarkAW said:


> How does that work?
> Point taken.


----------



## Garno

A very small dish made of oak appx 3 1/2" diameter


----------



## Garno

This is the largest bowl I have done to date. Appx 6.5" with a depth of appx 3"
I have no idea what the wood is.


----------



## MARK.B.

Like the bowl GarnoIt is most likely tree wood  looks like it could be Oak.


----------



## rob1693

Workbench update now oiled added a home made toothed plane stop made from a an old piece of sawplate and a 2x2 piece of yew also added a shelf for my sharpening kit


----------



## deafgeoff

Move the centre point a quarter of an inch on the tailstock to create the wobble and use pull cuts from the centre until it’s square again. Reverse the piece and repeat then turn the bowl as normal.


----------



## Smeghead

nowhere near as good as other things here, but i tried.
made it using screws only and tried to do it so you could only see the 2 on the "gable end" of the bird feeder.
not too bad for a complete beginner i guess.


----------



## Fitzroy

Smeghead said:


> nowhere near as good as other things here, but i tried.
> made it using screws only and tried to do it so you could only see the 2 on the "gable end" of the bird feeder.
> not too bad for a complete beginner i guess.


Great job! We all start somewhere.


----------



## Fitzroy

Not quite finished yet but chuffed it actually fits together, 18 blooming’ joints between the sash and frame!

lots learnt, coping the ends for the mouldings was hit and miss, and the muntins are not spot on length, but it’s square and it’ll do.
F.


----------



## gregmcateer

Peri said:


> Full size chessboard - from salvaged firedoors and some maple I actually bought



That's really nice, Peri.

Have you got any WIP photos, or diagrams showing the construction process? I've read that the squares can be a real pig to keep neatly together. 

Cheers

Greg


----------



## gregmcateer

Jonzjob said:


> Well, my latest and it seems that my balls are multiplying?
> 
> View attachment 115852
> 
> 
> Left is mine beech and cedar. Right is a commission, black walnut and beech and the ball is because I like turning balls. Not sure what wood that is?



Jon, 
How are the rings joined? Do you split one and glue back, so as not to lose the kerf thickness?


----------



## Droogs

After a long hiatus, I am slowly getting back in the workshop. First thing I did was make a jig for Pocket hole joinery for the myriad cabinets and cupboards I have to make now we actually have a proper floor in the flat, including a whole new kitchen. The jig is based on the one by Dennis from Hooked on Wood on Youtube
















Blue Valchromat on a birch ply base with Oak 18mm sq edgebanding


----------



## Garno

1st Solo effort at making a pen.

Rocket Bullet Pen
Wood :- Acacia
Finish :- Burnishing cream followed by 2 coats of friction polish


----------



## starlingwood

Pair of bedside tables to accompany the bed I made last month. Lovely project and extremely pleased with the result.


----------



## Fitzroy

starlingwood said:


> View attachment 116383
> 
> View attachment 116384
> 
> View attachment 116385
> 
> View attachment 116386
> 
> View attachment 116387
> 
> 
> Pair of bedside tables to accompany the bed I made last month. Lovely project and extremely pleased with the result.


That’s why I love making furniture, you get exactly what you want for the space you have. Great bed and units.


----------



## Garden Shed Projects

starlingwood said:


> View attachment 116383
> 
> View attachment 116384
> 
> View attachment 116385
> 
> View attachment 116386
> 
> View attachment 116387
> 
> 
> Pair of bedside tables to accompany the bed I made last month. Lovely project and extremely pleased with the result.


The tables and bed look really smart. What are the drawer runners, why all the controls?


----------



## Doug B

starlingwood said:


> View attachment 116384



How do you apply the Haddonwood moniker on the drawer box is it a heated stamp or pyrography, very neat.


----------



## starlingwood

Garden Shed Projects said:


> The tables and bed look really smart. What are the drawer runners, why all the controls?


I don't know really it's just what come with the runners. They are Hettich Quadro V4 silent. You can tweak them so that the drawer front sits perfectly in the opening.


----------



## starlingwood

Doug B said:


> How do you apply the Haddonwood moniker on the drawer box is it a heated stamp or pyrography, very neat.


It's a brass custom made branding iron. I heat it up with a torch then hold it for a few seconds, it's takes a bit of practice. Custom Wood Branding Irons & Leather Stamps UK | Brand Your Crafts Now! | Outpost Workshop
Give him a logo and about £80 and he sends you a brass branding stamp. Adds a professional touch!


----------



## Garno

starlingwood said:


> It's a brass custom made branding iron. I heat it up with a torch then hold it for a few seconds, it's takes a bit of practice. Custom Wood Branding Irons & Leather Stamps UK | Brand Your Crafts Now! | Outpost Workshop
> Give him a logo and about £80 and he sends you a brass branding stamp. Adds a professional touch!



Nice find, they look like quality branding stamps.


----------



## rob1693

Shaker style wall clock first project at New workbench used as a training exercise housing joints stub tenons grooves floating panel all done with a chisel stanley 71 record 4/12 and 044 and a handsaw did use a holesaw for clock insert


----------



## robgul

starlingwood said:


> It's a brass custom made branding iron. I heat it up with a torch then hold it for a few seconds, it's takes a bit of practice. Custom Wood Branding Irons & Leather Stamps UK | Brand Your Crafts Now! | Outpost Workshop
> Give him a logo and about £80 and he sends you a brass branding stamp. Adds a professional touch!



Don't want to pull the rug from under this supplier - but about £15 for the engraved stamp from China, in about a week or so - I made my own "iron" from a bit of 8mm studding and an old file handle (but I have subsequently bought an electric iron which gives greater heat consistency - again from China)


----------



## Peri

gregmcateer said:


> That's really nice, Peri.
> 
> Have you got any WIP photos, or diagrams showing the construction process? I've read that the squares can be a real pig to keep neatly together.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Greg


Not for that one, but I'm making a new project (a games board for a pub) that's very similar, I do have a few for that, I'll post them up soon


----------



## Jonzjob

This is my version
















It's going to be a games box. Chess draughts and back gammon when I finally get to it again. The board pieces are a Batternberg cake sliced and glued to a band saw box


----------



## Jonzjob

I forgot to say that the box is parana pine and the squares are black walnut and holly. I will be putting a black walnut edging around the box edge.


----------



## gregmcateer

Jonzjob said:


> I forgot to say that the box is parana pine and the squares are black walnut and holly. I will be putting a black walnut edging around the box edge.



So when you put the squares together, are they super thin veneers stuck together then stuck to the base, or do they float?


----------



## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)

Completely rebuilt and modded Thorens TD150 turntable. I've had the original for almost 40 years, and re-plinthed it, along with innumerable modifications to arm and base.














Regards from Perth

Derek


----------



## Jonzjob

gregmcateer said:


> So when you put the squares together, are they super thin veneers stuck together then stuck to the base, or do they float?



I made up a piece like a Batternburg cake of the walnut and holly. Then cut thin slices, about 1/16th" thick, and they were stuck to the box.

The first itme I tried that method was on a chess baord and when it dried on the 1/4" thick ply to my horror it warped the ply as the glue dried. So I tried it again on the dreaded MDF, once again about 1/4", and it warped again. So it got chucked in to a corner and forgotten. Several years later I was having a bit of a clear out and found the board AND it's now flat!


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Jonzjob said:


> The first I tried that method was on a chess baord and when it dried on the 1/4" thick ply to my horror it warped the ply as the glue dried. So I tried it again on the dreaded MDF, once again about 1/4", and it warped again.



Did you veneer both sides?


----------



## gregmcateer

Phil Pascoe said:


> Did you veneer both sides?


Is that the answer? I like it!


----------



## Jonzjob

On the ply, yes I did put a thin veneer on the underside, but it didn't do any good. On the MDF, No I didn't veneer the back. I got got fed-up with it and chucked it at the back of a shelf. Several years later I found it again and it was flat!


----------



## kinverkid

I made this for my wife's nephew and his partner. They are having their first baby later in the year. It does need one more rub-down and final coat but I just thought I would take the photographs while the sun was out. It's made from reclaimed brand new oak kitchen cabinet doors which were never installed at my friends house and a couple of long pieces I had lying around. An 800x400x50mm mattress is on order.
I followed the plans provided in Woodworking Projects but I understand the same plans have been printed by other magazines too.


----------



## Jonzjob

5 Bits of Accoya in close formation












I wondered what it would turn out like and I quite like it. Accoya takes a lovely finish, but it wasn't the easiest wood to turn when segmented.


----------



## Seaside Donkey

Bit of a change for me - a set of steps. These are for a shepherd's hut, being built by someone else. They still need a final rub down and a few coats of paint but I won't be doing that so they're finished.

Quite enjoyed doing these - made a change from making little boxes.


----------



## JBaz

Don't ask. Just think "The Two Ronnies".


----------



## Jonzjob

I can't remember them doing anything about a candelabra ]


----------



## Padster

Latest pen.......









Regards

Padster


----------



## Felipe

This is more of a Thank You post since people here in the forum really helped me to get started (not only talked me away from what seemed to be very unfruitful paths ('merica stlyle), but pointed me to great directions)

Having finished a bench, and gotten a track saw plus planes, I decided I wanted to learn how to make basic box joints, took me a couple attempts and quite a lot of tool and jig development to be able to reach this:









Not perfect but good enough to feel quite pleased  

Next item to learn: tenon and mortises...


----------



## Felipe

oh: I also made this plane to assist me with the final touches of the joints above, I rough cut the rabbets of the box above with the track saw, bulk removed with a palm router and for the joints that weren't straight enough I used this Paul Seller's "Poor's Man Rabbet Plane".

For the plane I even made the iron out of W2 steel scrap I had and a lot-of-elbow-grease (ouch)


----------



## paulrbarnard

Felipe said:


> oh: I also made this plane to assist me with the final touches of the joints above, I rough cut the rabbets of the box above with the track saw, bulk removed with a palm router and for the joints that weren't straight enough I used this Paul Seller's "Poor's Man Rabbet Plane".
> 
> For the plane I even made the iron out of W2 steel scrap I had and a lot-of-elbow-grease (ouch)
> 
> View attachment 116744


Fantastic. You are well and truly on the slippery slope.


----------



## Orraloon

JBaz said:


> View attachment 116722
> 
> 
> Don't ask. Just think "The Two Ronnies".


What tha fork! 
Her indoors will have an eye on the cutlery drawer from now on.
Regards
John


----------



## Wildman

functional and solid a surprising amount of work. could do better.


----------



## hog&amp;bodge

Wildman said:


> functional and solid a surprising amount of work. could do better.



They look great *wildman* but I bet you will tinker with them...lol
Now to make a decking all the way around your static home.
Have stayed in them twice now & both times we was hit with storms, apart
from rocking they stayed put.


----------



## isaac3d

JBaz said:


> View attachment 116722
> 
> 
> Don't ask. Just think "The Two Ronnies".


'andles for forks... very clever.


----------



## Wildman

hog&amp;bodge said:


> They look great *wildman* but I bet you will tinker with them...lol
> Now to make a decking all the way around your static home.
> Have stayed in them twice now & both times we was hit with storms, apart
> from rocking they stayed put.


thanks it is the office at my campsite decking all around would cost a bomb and not needed.


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## Mike.R

Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) said:


> Completely rebuilt and modded Thorens TD150 turntable. I've had the original for almost 40 years, and re-plinthed it, along with innumerable modifications to arm and base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards from Perth
> 
> Derek



That looks to be a great job, it must be very satisfying to breathe new life into an old friend like that. No doubt you've been revisiting a few LPs.


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## Sandyn

Not woodworking, but I cycle a lot and often get flies in my eyes. I arrive home after a few hours sometimes with really bloodshot eyes. I hate wearing any kind of glasses when cycling. I just find them really annoying. About a week ago, I got an infection in one eye, which I thought was caused by some muck in my eye, but according to the optician it was caused by exposure to the elements. The surface of the cornea was dry and cracked. I had to find a solution quick, so I made a prototype visor for my helmet.





It has been brilliant. It suffered a bit of misting one cool damp morning, but an application of Rainex, inside and out has cured that problem. The visor is made from a shatterproof safety visor. I just stuck it to the inside of my helmet with 3M VHB tape. The visor shelters my eyes and no flies. Happy cyclist.


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## GregW




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## cowtown_eric

from a refinished estate sale find, a little fettling and fitting, some LED lighting. The mirors make it look like I have twice as many!

Eric


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## Droogs

never seen a plumb bob cabinet before


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## Adam W.

I've seen one for fly fishing reels which I thought was very strange, as I keep mine in my fishing bag not a special cabinet in the front room


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## hog&amp;bodge

Are you on the look out for another plumb bob Eric .
Liking the cabinet.


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## Droogs

He must be soooo paranoid about subsidence


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## Krisskross

Wanted to use the band saw, pallet wood, burning technique and coloured wood stain, not brill but now finding better ways to gets square edges.


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## DIYTinkerer

Well I didn't really make my Dad's Stanley Bailey No4 (Type 15) but I have just renovated it to working condition - the sole had very deep scratches in it and it wasn't very flat either so I fixed that as well. I'm really happy how it turned out - unfortunately I didn't do photos before I restored it. Duh..


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## DIYTinkerer

pulleyt said:


> This was a change from the small scale ornament curiosities that I've been making over the last year.
> We recently created a dining room and moved in the accompanying dining table from the kitchen where it had always been a tight squeeze, especially when extended to seat eight. This meant, of course, that we had no table in the kitchen and it is somewhere we like to sit and look out on the garden. Mostly, there are just the two of us at home these days so a table that was comfortable for two and extendable to four would suit well.
> 
> View attachment 115961
> 
> 
> 
> I eventually decided on an oval drop leaf table (in maple as I still have a fair bit left over from a kitchen project many years ago) and using rule joints for the drop down leaves. The rule joint took a few practice attempts in some scrap 18mm mdf to get them right, well to get it working at least. And even then I miscalculated the width of the centre panel as I forgot to allow for the leaves dropping back under the centre panel by 12mm on each side . This meant I had to cut the panel in half and insert another narrow strip to widen it which you may be able to make out by the grain variations.
> 
> View attachment 115962
> 
> 
> The supports for the leaves are bars that pull out from the table frame and are held in place by the table top. Stop blocks on the other end of each bar to the small knob limit the distance the bars can be pulled out.
> 
> View attachment 115963
> 
> 
> I'll be honest, I prefer the small ornamental work but I'm happy with the result!


Lovely looking table.


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## jim1950

made this butlers tray and stand out of a beam removed from the building in the background which I rebuild a few years back, it's a coach house built in the early 1840's, now my workshop.
Made the tray because I panelled a room in reclaimed pine and got told the table don't match it Mahogany, just need the butler now


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## DIYTinkerer

That is such a lovely cot


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## recipio

jim1950 said:


> made this butlers tray and stand out of a beam removed from the building in the background which I rebuild a few years back, it's a coach house built in the early 1840's, now my workshop.
> Made the tray because I panelled a room in reclaimed pine and got told the table don't match it Mahogany, just need the butler nowView attachment 117051
> View attachment 117052
> View attachment 117053
> View attachment 117054



Nice. I made one once but got annoyed when people put their feet up on it ! In reality you are not going to carry the top laden with crockery etc as its too heavy. Also any examples I've seen have a veneered centre to prevent wood movement as the folding leaves have to be perfectly aligned. The classic butlers table was more of a tray sitting on crossed legs. Still a great effort, well done.


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## clogs

KrissKross
tried to open the attachment but no go....


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## Fitzroy

Repaired the stiles (is that the correct term?) on my front door, facings and frame rotten as heck. Chopped the frame out and replaced with a couple of chunks of oak. Facings are larch. Stainless screws and plugged to try and avoid the corrosion the old one suffered. A whole days work and a coat of undercoat as it was getting dark.


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## Phil Pascoe

I'm always surprised jobs like that take so long. I repaired box frame windows that took twice as long as it would have taken me to make them from scratch.


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## Hallelujahal

First effort at a mallet… I now possess a mallet which is good as I have hitting things stuff to do  not finished yet but getting there


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## Krisskross

clogs said:


> KrissKross
> tried to open the attachment but no go....


sorry, will get a pic of it and post it tomorrow


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## Mike.R

Fitzroy said:


> Repaired the stiles (is that the correct term?) on my front door, facings and frame rotten as heck. Chopped the frame out and replaced with a couple of chunks of oak. Facings are larch. Stainless screws and plugged to try and avoid the corrosion the old one suffered. A whole days work and a coat of undercoat as it was getting dark.
> View attachment 117148
> 
> View attachment 117147



That looks like a great job.


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## Krisskross

Jonzjob said:


> Well, my latest and it seems that my balls are multiplying?
> 
> View attachment 115852
> 
> 
> Left is mine beech and cedar. Right is a commission, black walnut and beech and the ball is because I like turning balls. Not sure what wood that is?


wow, these look fab and fun to make


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## Fitzroy

Hallelujahal said:


> First effort at a mallet… I now possess a mallet which is good as I have hitting things stuff to do  not finished yet but getting there


Nice one, I made one about a year ago and it makes me smile each time I use it. It’s a great little project.


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## Jameshow

Knocked out this tool box more of a start of apprentice level construction rather than end of apprenticeship quality! I was fed up when I cut the dovetails (dnf a ultra race!). But it will do the job! 

24"x16" to fit the space inside my mobile workbench.


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## Krisskross

Krisskross said:


> sorry, will get a pic of it and post it tomorrow





love the colour- Pallet wood, basic beginnings, but need to make something. glued sides and bottom and reinforced with skewers.


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## Sachakins

Tulip wood bowl, 19 1/4" diameter and 2 3/8" thick. Laminated blank from off cuts and finished with Hampshire Sheen
Pint glass in shot is to give some scale to the piece.


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## MARK.B.

One hell of a beer coaster


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## Orraloon

Thats got a nice natural look to it for a laminated piece of wood.
Nice clamp arrangement too.
Regards
John


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## sometimewoodworker

Felipe said:


> Having finished a bench, and gotten a track saw plus planes, I decided I wanted to learn how to make basic box joints, took me a couple attempts and quite a lot of tool and jig development to be able to reach this:


Nice work.

FWIW I am just making something over 50 joints that are stepped box joints, so slightly more complex, that don’t need a jig just correct setting of the table saw fence and blade hight.

So if you have a table saw, while the setup takes quite a few tiny exact adjustments, the stepped joint is easier and potentially faster as, as long as all the pieces are virtually the same thickness the joint cutting cutting is the same on every part.

This is the joint I am talking about on a setup piece.


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## sometimewoodworker

Krisskross said:


> sorry, will get a pic of it and post it tomorrow


With a video, like yours, the safest bet is to upload it to YouTube like this



this is the @krisscross item. It is on my channel but is set to unlisted (if you have the URL you can view it) and I will be deleting it as soon as he has fixed the upload or link.

here is another version but with audio.

again both will go soon


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## Amateur

Sandyn said:


> and often get flies in my eyes. I



Its bloody dangerous wearing your trousers on your head while cycling...although you would be better unzipping them before putting them on.


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## D_W

3 of a five piece set of paring chisels (these need just a little more hand finishing, but in reality, they don't "need" it. 

I've been making chisels for a while now, but not "for pay", I never ask for anything other than the cost of materials and consumables (which can be considerable if the steel is expensive stuff and the wood is expensive - for this set of paring chisels, it'll probably be $100, but the steel is something ritzy - a fine grained very high carbon steel called 26c3, which is like japanese white steel but with just a little chromium added - not enough for chromium to roam free, but to combine with the iron and carbon and improve hardenability just a little bit. It's 1.25% carbon, which is near the bottom of the White 1 range, and while it's not uber expensive (lots of the powder metal stainless versions cost more), they keep records of the actual batch test so you can see how clean the steel was. This steel has a spec that's far cleaner than almost anything, and only the tiniest hair away from the white steel tolerances, but the actual batch is multiple times cleaner than the white 1 standard, so the two would be able to duke it out. The result is something that can be driven to high hardness (like white steel) and tempered back just a little - or think of something like hock O1 steel, but without the chippiness of hock at the 64-ish hardness level. It comes out of the quench at 68 and could be driven higher than 64 (but it's a nice compromise there). 

All that said, the intention is to not just create paring chisels for a friend of mine, but to have them more crisp and sharper feeling no matter what the sharpening media is than anything else sharpened on the same media, and for them to wear when used in such a way that they still feel sharp even as they're dulling. carbon steels used for razors generally meet this - and 26c3 is one of the steels used for razors. The stainless steels used for razor blades are specialty steels like AEB-L that also have no large grains in them (AEB-L is probably the only stainless that's finer than some carbon steels). 

fine grain and high hardness correspond to edge strength (Which people confuse for toughness - but toughness equates more to the ability to take damage without letting go, which is a *bad* thing for chisels as you end up with a foil like a burr on the tip of a chisel which is far more work to get through wood than tiny chips). 

The other thing that makes this a bit of a hassle to work with is that water hardening steels warp, and they generally don't fully harden to the core (Which is also a good thing as long as the outer layer at high hardness is thick enough). Long story short, I've had to take a couple out of the rotation due to warping and regrind them and just keep them for myself as they're "rejects" (the rejects still turn out to be very difficult to match with much that's out there in production). To just make something that's shaped generally like a chisel, buying a glob of A2 steel and cutting it to chisel shape would be much easier - A2 doesn't move much in heat treatment. 

All of the grinding other than a general flat tapered blank has to be done on this after the chisels are hardened, which means specialty abrasives or a wet wheel (no giant wet wheel here) and I grind these with bare hands so that i can feel them. if they get too hot to touch, then no good. Once your hands get warm, they get more sensitive so you get a wide margin to work with and I haven't burned a chisel yet on a powered belt grinder like that. I *have* blistered my fingers flattening the backs manually on a glass lap and in combination with that, softened the bevel on a chisel - by hand!! Unexpected. 






It's been a long journey in the last year to learn to do these things well with minimal tools. I have two forges, but no heat treat oven, so I am working by eye ,thermally cycling steels and heat treating by eye and with that comes things like getting commercial samples and working at the method until I can snap samples and see grain as fine as the commercial samples, and then using a good known chisel (like a vintage ward) and doing the same test with my chisels until they hold up at least as well under a microscope. This isn't as easy as it may sound to achieve. 

If I "master" this, I'm sure it'll get boring and it'll be time to move on to something else. 

Here are two of the "rejects" - at least I get to keep them - they are blindingly crisp and sharp and more than straight enough, but the friend of mine was the toolmaker at williamsburg and I don't want to send him any junk. He's given me scads of free advice over the last decade and goaded me to try to make nice things instead of just things, always willing to tell me where I can make things better. Since my maker's mark isn't the greatest thing in the world, I put it on the bottom of the chisel below the tang like some of the older chisels did. That way, if he thinks I came up a little short making my mark, he won't have to look at it  






Despite the fact that he's made more tools than I'll make by a factor of 100, I want him to get these chisels and feel like they are sharper and more crisp than anything he's gotten, vintage or new. The reject bunch is as good as any ward parer that I've used, or anything else - and a bit harder and at least as fine cutting. The fact that the steel has really nothing roaming free in it other than iron and iron carbides makes it easy to sharpen even though it's hard, and it lets go of the wire edge just in the process of sharpening - just like a japanese chisel. 

I've made a lot of chisels now and am quick at it, but to cut these out of bar stock, forge the ends and then grind them to a crude blank, file and shape the tang, install the bolster and then forge weld it and grind it to shape, and then heat treat and finish grind and then finally hand finish the surfaces - it's a solid 3 hours of constant work per chisel. 

With so many wonderful bevel edge parers left floating around the UK for reasonable, it'd make no sense to ever consider making this a business. 

There is nothing made now, though, that is their equal (and I've made plenty of junk in the past, so that's a culmination of the work to get to this point and being willing to harden several hundred things, snap steel and look at the grain and so on - I just think nobody out there would go to the trouble to make something this crisp and with as much chance of failure as there is with warping to probably have trouble getting $100. And what it takes in the US to get $100 a chisel is really promoting the tools and always being positive and not telling people things they don't want to hear. 

I'm not that guy.


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## Hornbeam

The chisels you produce look fantastic and I am sure they perform as well as they look, As you say in UK if you look round you can pick up good quality older paring chisel for around £25 so not something you can compete with on cost. However there seem to be a number of makers, particularly some of teh japanese chisels that sell £150 and upwards, which is more where I think your tools are aimed at.
Ian


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## D_W

Yes on the japanese tools - I think those tools don't sell in japan, they only sell to western workers (A more typical price for something used there is what I'd pay buying off of their japan yahoo. I think without americans, russians, english and european folks buying their tools, the industry would be mostly dead. I also think when you see $500 paring chisels, the japanese themselves don't like that flashy stuff - the annular rings, etc - and the distributor and retailer are greatly marking up what the maker gets. The listings in some publications here are borderline fraud, talking about the maker and his wife taking turns with the sledge to forge, etc. They're forged with power hammers or dies and then ground in grinding dies). 

In the US, blue spruce tools (now woodpeckers) pretty much just take a highly polished piece of flat stock A2 and assemble it into what looks like a duplicated handle, and if the handle is figured or exotic, they're around $120. 








OPTIMA™ Paring Chisel - 1 (1.00) - 25.4mm


Every book on sharpening chisels starts with pages of instructions on how to flatten the back. The authors devote so much attention to the subject because chisels don’t arrive ready to use or even with a reasonably flat back…until now. Blue Spruce Toolworks new Optima™ Chisels feature a lapped...




bluesprucetoolworks.com





That's a bit of a turn off to me, but it's just personal opinion (not grudge) - they're made so that all of the parts can be ordered/contracted and made by machine without having to have much skilled labor - the custom ferrule hides the business where everything meets so that it doesn't just look like a piece of bar stock stuck into a handle. 

These chisels, instead of being thin from end to end (they're too long for that and would be too flexible and wouldn't stay in a cut) are hardened fully in the first 2/3rds of their length and then partially up to the tang, and then after that, they taper to no hardening in most of the tang behind the bolster (Which allows the handles to be set on them imperfectly and then adjusted to perfect - i believe old english chisels generally follow this. The result is that they have stiffness and hard spring that makes them really lovely to use (you can lean on them or use them lightly and they will spring properly for the cut and not dive or rise - they're around 0.11-.12" at the bevel end, .14" in the middle, and then .24 or so at the tang, with the taper having curvature. That keeps them strong without making them overly heavy, and it's attractive if they're sighted down as it looks more natural than just a bunch of perfectly straight lines. 

I could probably figure out how to get these down to about half the time or maybe 2/3rds over time, but taking the hammering/forge shaping out of it and the hand filing of the bolster and freehand grind would completely ruin what I"m going for. There's no reason to try to make machine made imitations - if you're going for freehand, you can add nuance without any extra work.


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## D_W

(as far as what's typical in japan, something more like $40 for a high quality used (but barely used) paring chisel. Less for chisels that have a lot of wear). 

lower grade used chisels often sell for about $10 each there, and sometimes well made professional sets that would be $1000 here under a current maker will be about $150-$200.

This set of high quality slicks (all three) were about $200 total, something like $220 shipped to the US, so probably more like $175 at auction. They are extremely well made and it's almost a shame that they don't bring more, but it should be a wake up call to anyone buying $200 bench chisels in the west or $200-$500 paring chisels - the "tradition" doesn't actually match. (It's OK to make fun of the dovetails - they were the first I ever cut, and in 13/16" pre-planed oak - wasn't a great choice). I laid a typical japanese bench chisel over the slicks so that it's clear how big they are - they're gigantic - around double the size of a typical paring chisel in length, or in the ballpark of as long as a stanley 8) 

I have no use for them, but they're pretty.


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## JangoTrooper

I made this Intarsia christmas owl from Judy Gale Roberts. 
I used softwoods which I dyed red, green, white. 
I also used mixed hardwoods also, oak, ash, elm, walnut, iroko, sapele, maple, ebony, purple heart, padauk. To name a few.


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## sometimewoodworker

D_W said:


> Yes on the japanese tools - I think those tools don't sell in japan


Humm. The general population certainly don’t buy them, the pretty ones are probably made for the export trade.

However the top quality plains and chisels certainly have a significant market as do the knives that are produced in similar ways and a few sell for significantly over £2,000. The shop that was my favourite in Kapabashi during my time there no longer has a website that lists the products however it had a soba noodle knife that was about ¥600,000 and another at ¥350,000. 
The Japanese in general have a quite high discretionary income and consider quality far more than price, or at least my friends did. Don’t forget that the shrines and temples are all made of wood and while a temple may be 1,000 years old you can virtually guarantee that none of the wood is much over 80 years, that the woodwork is all hand tool work and the monks and temples are among the richest so can pay enough for the craftsmen to afford the high priced tools.

I never went to any of the really specialist shops as the tools were way beyond my needs and pockets and that is apart from the xenophobic attitudes of many of the shops there, so without a knowledgeable Japanese you may not even get into the shop or find where it is.


----------



## D_W

I think the knives that you're mentioning are generally for the wealthy and perhaps as a ceremonial gift. What's in japan that's expensive and bought there tends to be sort of more plain looking and very perfectly made stuff (at least in tools).

There are a few collectors there of really expensive sharpening stones, too, but they are catered to by mine owners or distributors.

The flashy chisels that end up over here for $500 for a parer, though, with ebony handles, don't really fit in the above categories.

I'm not sure how much of the really expensive stuff is aimed just at the domestic market, though. There was a retailer about a decade ago who was thought to have good prices (and compared to the retailers who cater only to westerners, they did). At some point, someone floated to the western forums and pointed out that if you could read japanese, the prices on the site were about 2/3rds, and suddenly, everyone thought it was less favorable.

But I'm sure there are wealthy individuals who buy a small number of really expensive high hand labor stuff (it's just not what's marketed over here, and what's marketed to here is often made more flashy and less plain perfection).

That's what I've come to understand, but will admit, I'm not in contact with anyone buying really high end stuff over there, so I don't know how big the market of wealthy individuals really is (I do recall once that Stu Tierney suggested that the market for expensive cooking goods was stronger in japan than the market for expensive woodworking tools - that seemed to be true, as stuff like the chosera stones are aimed at knife shops and naniwa made other similar quality stones (like the snow white - same abrasive, same binder - $80 instead of $230).

(full disclosure, I do have a few kiyotada chisels, so i'm not completely devoid of really pricey japanese stuff - but kiyotada meets the japanese aesthetic standard - very plain, very crisp, just done right to high quality - more than the annular ring chisel thing where - as Rob Streeper found a couple of years ago, the hagane wasn't the same hardness end to end). My kiyotada chisels do differ a little in hardness, but I think that's probably more due to the fact that he was actually hardening chisel by hand and eye and may have done things a little differently over time (they're - mine - not all from the same time).


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## Garno

JangoTrooper said:


> View attachment 117535
> 
> I made this Intarsia christmas owl from Judy Gale Roberts.
> I used softwoods which I dyed red, green, white.
> I also used mixed hardwoods also, oak, ash, elm, walnut, iroko, sapele, maple, ebony, purple heart, padauk. To name a few.



That is beautiful.

Thank you for sharing

Gary


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## JangoTrooper

Garno said:


> That is beautiful.
> 
> Thank you for sharing
> 
> Gary


 
Many thanks


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## sometimewoodworker

D_W said:


> I think the knives that you're mentioning are generally for the wealthy and perhaps as a ceremonial gift. What's in japan that's expensive and bought there tends to be sort of more plain looking and very perfectly made stuff (at least in tools).


Your thinking is not correct. The knives are for the professional chefs and are absolutely for use, not collection.




this an an example of a lower priced knife that is around ¥110,000 (£730.00)

and here is a substantialy lower priced Soba noodle knife that goes for around ¥88,000




they mention that if you want a handle it costs extra.

These are on searchable websites and in my experience (I did live and work there for almost 3 decades) the top quality makers may not have websites, of those that do virtually none are accessible in English, the only searches that can find them must be in Japanese, many don’t advertise and the wait list for a knife or plain blade is years long. Yes there are ready made blades and irons but the known craftsmans output isn’t high enough for him to take time to make on spec.

You also have no real concept of what I mean by decretionary disposable income and why it’s so high.
an example is that the average salaryman can not only support his wife and family on his income but easily afford to rent a parking space for ¥150,000 +(1,000) per month for a car he doesn’t need (he takes the train to work and his company pays for that) and he and his wife will drive maybe 1,000 km per year. So your chef or woodworker will have no problems buying a tool for their job that costs less than the cost to park a car for 6 months. Can they all afford that kind of tool? Of course not. Do many of them? Absolutely they do. Are some of the tools bought by collectors? A few probably are, the majority are bought by working craftsman who can quite easily afford them.

The average savings of a couple are around ¥17 million (£120,000) mostly in cash, the UK amount is a little over 10% of that (£12,000) and don’t forget that it is the average.

there is one restaurant for every 260 people in Japan if only half of them have a single chef who buys top quality tools and he only buys 1 knife per 5 years that is 46,000 knives sold per year, all of these are extremely conservative numbers. Naturally the number of hand tool woodworkers are fewer, but still substantial. The scale of specialisation with a densely populated high income country is astounding.


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## D_W

Why do you post only knives instead of tools? I never mentioned knives above, I said that the market for high priced tools is supported and has basically been brought back to life by gullible western buyers.

I need to see the Japanese woodworkers using annular ring chisels with ebony handles, not just that you can find them listed somewhere.


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## sometimewoodworker

D_W said:


> Why do you post only knives instead of tools? I never mentioned knives above, I said that the market for high priced tools is supported and has basically been brought back to life by gullible western buyers.
> 
> I need to see the Japanese woodworkers using annular ring chisels with ebony handles, not just that you can find them listed somewhere.


Why? Because my friends and students were involved with cooking and restaurants very few with woodwork, so I have personal experience with cooking tools not much with woodworking tools so I talk of things I know not guess, if I don’t know I make that clear.

You will probably not find many or any Japanese woodworkers using tools like that as they wouldn’t spend good money on on frills, ebony handles are just bling specially on on annular ring chisels that are designed to be pounded with a steel hammer. For the Japanese the tool handles and plane bodies are consumable and will be replaced, the quality, time and cost is in the blade. Also the knives I showed are not remotely the most expensive tools just look up Magurokiri blades and you will find them in the ¥900,000 range certainly not for collectors.

The Japanese perception, view and valuation of aesthetic qualities are very different from the western one. They look at the detail and in general are not or not very concerned by the overall view, the detail being the blade the overall view being the complete tool.

An example of this is the stunning architecture of individual buildings but the mess of groups of them in most Japanese cities, while a western view of excellence requires that the building not only be good architecturally but fit with the surroundings

Why am I not distinguishing between knife and chisel makers? Because the laminated steel technique is common to both and certainly some are made by the same craftsmen though the knife constructed is quite possibly more difficult it is certainly more complex specially for the longer, often curved, blades where the curve, so saleability, is never guaranteed until it has been tempered, while a plane or chisel is virtually guaranteed to be perfect once grinding is finished.

with used tools a reasonable quality used plain and cap iron will go from £300 to almost as much as you care to spend, with you getting or making the body for it to go in.


----------



## D_W

I don't know which blades you're talking about. For a while, ogata blades were available here new for $225 for a matching iron and subblade. Nakano's planes with a ledged dai and a paulownia box were $225 (they were brought over from japan, and presumably sold for a profit). That was in a lull time when americans weren't buying hand over fist (perhaps the 90s - after the first rush from the 1980s wore off). 

The ogata blade that I got was later, though - I got it from a dealer here who brought it back. 

Then, Iida started selling them and also, a retailer over here got them. Now, they're $800. Not sure what iida sells nakano blades for - but probably about the same. 

I doubt any are sold to japanese buyers within half of that or even less. 

What you're talking about is very small volume small part of the market kit. If the average carpenter saved and bought something like ouchi 1, that would be understandable. If they bought $4000 sets of oire nomi that were really decorative and overly perfect aesthetically, I doubt it, unless it was a gift late career. But you can sell that stuff to americans and europeans in droves. 

The knife thing is different than the tool thing - at least in true high end knives that are laminated in house (there are a whole lot of prelaminated knives floating around here for about $400-$600 - I don't get it - I've made knives out of prelaminated steel - it's uneventful to say the least - everything else done to the blade after thermal cycling and hardening and straightening (something afforded by the cladding - you can tap them straight when they're fully hardened, and they will bend and take a set back to straight without issue and without cracking)). True in house knives are forged in house, decorated by hand and hand scraped and finished. Are they functionally better than thermally cycled rikizai? Probably not. The cost is in the tradition - the hand scraping, the hand finishing with stones (it's an offshoot of sword stuff, and far greater in appeal because most people cook). 

Some of my chisels did come from japan, and they did come from this end of the selling (not publicly displayed and from a relatively exclusive dealer in tokyo). I wanted to see what they were like and before stan covington sold tools, he got them for me at cost, store tags left on and all (they are old stock shimamura/kiyotada, but some of the later chisels - the longer kiyotada when on based on the ones I have, the neater his chisels got, but they didn't get ornate - just more finely finished). I get that whole thing, the back room idea, and the actual kiyotada chisels at that time sold from old stock (and not to the public) were less than the frilly stuff sold here. 

There are chisels that cost more than kiyotada, but not many. They are very good. 

My point with my comments isn't that there isn't a small segment of the tool market that is really nosebleed and very traditional, but that's not what's being passed off to americans. What we're getting is stock of retired planemakers or late career that has been purchased and marked to $800 when it sold for eons at 1/3rd or 1/4th. Is the toolmaker seeing any of that? I hope so. 

There's also misinformation given as part of the selling, but I think that's true across the board. If you have white 1 and assab or other swedish steel, you'll be told that the swedish is easy sharpening. If you make tools, you learn pretty quickly that it's just tempered softer. The ogata blades were passed along as him using "boutique purified" steel that's really easy to sharpen but holds an edge as long as anything else. Well, mine was easy to sharpen, but the lamination was thick (this isn't that desirable) and it was relatively easy to sharpen because it wasn't that hard. In my opinion, the step off of highest hardness made it more functional for any user, not just intermediate, but nobody wants to hear that - they want "the hardest that's special made to still be easy sharpening". IT didn't wear that long, but again, I don't care about that - only people who can't sharpen well get obsessed with edge life vs. edge uniformity, at least to a point. 

I bought and sold stones from japan for a while - a couple of hundred of them. I did it at the time because I could find the same labeled stones that the european and japanese (stores who catered to westerners) sellers sold for about $200 vs. the $600-$800 that they would sell for. I would grade them and sell them for close to cost to make a point. I don't think those stones sell for that price in japan. 

I do think there are stones held back by the mines for wealthy japanese customers, but they are truly rare and very low volume, and the average person wouldn't "get it" if they used them. 





__





Okudo Tomae Karasu stone | Gem | Wood working tool, Japanese wood working tool shop


Japanese hardware store for more than 30 years. Plane, Chisel, Saw, Knife, other Japanese tools.



japantool-iida.com





have a look at this stone. As a former seller of stones, I don't get it. This is a $200-$300 stone to me, at most - new, without chips off of it (I would likely pass on it at this point as stones of that quality and type without lines aren't hard to find). But iida specializes in selling to americans, and he sells everything expensive except when he doesn't want to (at one point, he was selling nakano planes on his front page for $500 and on ebay selling off excess for $150 - i got one of the latter - it's a good plane. 

Here is the ogata blade that I had (I bought it from a dealer here who marks things up very significantly to fund his trips to japan - I paid a little over 1/4th of this amount, but had to make my own dai. This is ideal for a dealer selling to americans - I would be surprised if ida pays $200 for these blades now. For a long time, they were about $500, and then japan woodworker started selling them for $800 here claiming they are "the only seller" , and iida magically raised his price to $800.). 

What you and I are talking about are different things - what's being told to people who don't speak japanese (to buy relatively common stuff and then pay the moon for decorative tools vs. the very understated and perhaps rare and truly hand done stuff that you're speaking of with knives that appeals to a very narrow segment of the market). 

Separately from that, I recall on a shaving forum, someone asked Jim Rion "I'm coming to tokyo, can you tell me where there is a good store for kamisori - I want to buy something really good". Jim's response (he was selling kamisori at the time), "there's not much on the ground - they're mostly sold to westerners by export sale". I would bet that there are older kamisori somewhere in small numbers made of sand iron steel by someone who was famous, but the vast majority of $250-$800 kamisori are just machine made tools sold to westerners based on a narrative. And they are pretty easily matched (sometimes bettered) by a few picked from a group of 10 that just need to be reground on buyee for $125 (that's the price for the group). I sometimes regrind them and sell them on ebay for about $35 ,and people are always shocked when they get them. I did have an iwasaki kamisori of swedish steel, but it was expensive and it felt like more effort was made on the box and lacquer to prevent rust than thermal cycling to make the edge fine, and strict control of hardness. 

And lastly, just to sort out what's real (along with the kiyotada chisels), I bought some fairly well regarded planes by mosaku, a higher end tsunesaburo plane (the ones supposedly made by hand - most of the irons look like they're mass produced from prelaminated material. Maybe they aren't and they have some kind of faster process that does quick lamination, but what's left is very uniform looking steels with a thick lamination), ogata (of course) one by nakano (not the inexpensive one mentioned above - I also got that one - the first one was made with an expensive andrews steel), and I may have forgotten one or two that are long gone. I then switched over to buying some from buyee . 

I then got about half a dozen blades from buyee that were unused or close to it, with and without dais, but based on visual aspects. I looked for irons that had kamaji that showed a lot of bubble holes in it (it's usually softer or sharpens better) and thin laminations (again, faster sharpening without giving up anything, and quite often a sign of more skill in the making). The average price for that half dozen, some barely used, some unused, all 70-72mm - about $100. They're on japan's version of ebay, and the ones that are marked up a lot don't sell. On average, the half dozen group was better quality (but some of that due to picking aspects that I couldn't pick with the dealer sold plane), and none was defective. The mosaku plane that I bought was white 1 and overhard (it would've probably held an edge if it had been tempered some), the ogata was softer than any other plane I've had, but probably a little harder than a typical stanley iron, and one of the tsunesaburo planes had uniformity problems with super blue steel - which isn't uncommon as the tungsten in it is one of the harder carbides to get dissolved and dispersed evenly. In order to know if an effort was successful, you'd have to etch each one or use each one and test - mine held an edge OK, but it was always full of tiny nicks. A real disappointment.


----------



## D_W

Also, the knives that you showed are dealer marked up to $730 and effectively $800. For a hand made knife, this isn't that much. I don't know if their forge is done in house, but I hope at that price, it is. Before the markup, the maker is probably getting about half that, and it's really not a way to get rich. 

I would expect knives that are truly finely finished by hand to take at least several days to make and finish and they would have to be at least a couple of thousand dollars at retail to justify making. 

Little of that is sold here, but there is some effort in the last decade to get in the more perfect understated work - it's just like it's always been - what's marketed to euros and americans is only a couple of makers, and then a whole lot of mostly machine made stuff for nearly the same price. 

A typical custom hand finished knife in the US from the makers who are known to pay extreme attention to steel microstructure is probably about $3000 ( I don't mean Kramer knives, either - I don't know if that guy speaks in generalities, but I'd be surprised if his skill in knives matches his ability to market. And I would bet that the typical japanese purchaser of a $3k knife understands more about the knife than the average kramer customer - at least that's my opinion and i Hope it's the case). 

Back to the tools - at what point does functionality ceased improving in a chisel - around $80 in japan. A die-pressed chisel that's heat treated properly with good thermal control and just ground in dies (and not hand finished further) is about as good as kiyotada in terms of edge holding. but my eye likes the kiyotada better. The thermal control of the steel has much more to do with the end result than does any secret forging process - what's missing in most discussions about all of these things is proof of qualities and what provides them. 

But as to $800 knives, if they're made by hand, I don't think it's possible to make them cheaper and include a dealer markup. And like the western knives, if you're truly going to do a traditional hand finish, you can start getting into days of work to get things photo perfect. 

(the need for the lamination is separate - it would be an interesting topic on another thread, but not for here. At the very least, let's just say that you can't fully harden white steel without sticking it to something - the transition speed needed for it is really fast and the only way to harden it in water without cracking is to stick it to a softer metal. there are other considerations - like the original cost of making the steel, but all of those things go together. Oil hardening steel in the west is probably what made laminated irons disappear).


----------



## Garno

Shock Absorber Pen
Finish:- CA and Burnishing Cream
Wood :- Veneer
Time invested :-3 Hours


----------



## Garno

Pen :- Rocket Bullet Pen
Wood :- Oak
Finish :- Sanding sealer, Melamine, Carnauba Wax
Time :- 2 hours 20 mins


----------



## Phil Pascoe

You've got it bad, haven't you?


----------



## Garno

Phil Pascoe said:


> You've got it bad, haven't you?



Starting to enjoy it, finish is letting me down a bit but I will get there eventually


----------



## paulrbarnard

Garno said:


> Starting to enjoy it, finish is letting me down a bit but I will get there eventually


Only starting to enjoy it?


----------



## NickVanBeest

Just completed my new coffee table...










Joints came out nice enough that I didn't need glue or screws or anything like that


----------



## Padster

This is something a little different for me, I saw something whilst on hols in Devon and decided surely I can make that!
So here is my attempt - in case you can't guess it's an oak tree, made from some oak I had!






Regards

Padster


----------



## city17

Made two Japanese sawhorses this weekend, not for a specific purpose, but they might come in handy for some larger size projects in the future.

They're surprisingly sturdy, was a bit worried about the straight legs of the Japanese design vs the triangle type sawhorses.

Hand tools bridle joint on top, (lazy) dominos for the other joints!


----------



## D_W

The 26c3 parers, effectively finished. This is kind of a hard steel to work with hardening unless everything is lined up right on the chisels before they're heated, everything is done right when they're heated ( they're sensitive to overheating, so you can't just do it willynilly - nothing in the alloy to prevent grain from growing - just as is the case with white steel, and not enough manganese or chromium to make them harden properly in anything other than very fast quench oils). When everything lines up, they come out one after the other feeling the same, and it's just a matter of whether or not you have to cast one or two out of the bunch and remake due to warping.

They need a bit of hand finishing and to have the tangs sharpened and made more crisp (so they can be used to ream the hole for their own handles), but anything that risks the chisel not turning out that great is all in the past.












testing is relatively easy thanks to an old file handle. They need to pare for a while without showing a tendency to leave any lines on the work (other than burnishing from the corners of the chisel itself).

In the US, we'd call these "english paring chisels" because of the thin cross section and the tang. They are about 1/8th thick for half of the length with the narrower chisels being slightly thicker for strength. I guess you guys would call them "paring chisels" without the English qualifier. Paring chisels weren't common in the US except for the types obviously made for patternmakers or strange really long socket chisels (I have no clue what those were used for - a long socket paring chisel is a clunky awkward item with a thin blade and a dumb short handle attached to it, and they were usually made less awkward by making the blade shorter but still referring to them as "socket paring" chisels in catalogs).


----------



## DansWorkshop

Little built in cabinet to cover a fuse board. With a little drawer for your keys.


----------



## Garno

Rocket Bullet Pen.
Walnut
Finish:- Sanding sealer, Melamine, Carnauba Stick.
Total time 4hrs 30 mins


----------



## MARK.B.

I will buy that Garno but only if it spells correctly


----------



## dzj

.


----------



## Krisskross

sometimewoodworker said:


> With a video, like yours, the safest bet is to upload it to YouTube like this
> 
> 
> 
> this is the @krisscross item. It is on my channel but is set to unlisted (if you have the URL you can view it) and I will be deleting it as soon as he has fixed the upload or link.
> 
> here is another version but with audio.
> 
> again both will go soon




thank you for this, I totally forgot about youtube, even though i watch it everyday lol


----------



## Garno

Rocket Bullet pen, black with copper tip

Beech

Finish:- Sanding Sealer, Melamine, Carnauba Wax Stick

2 Hours 45 Minutes


----------



## Garno

Red and Black Veneer

Rocket Bullet Pen

Finish:- Sanding Sealer, Melamine, Carnauba Stick

2 hours 20 minutes


----------



## Padster

Following on Garno's Pen theme here is a pen and pencil set for my wife's birthday today....










Regards

Padster


----------



## Garno

Nice set there Paddy


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Padster - if you join in with Secret Santa I'll fiddle the draw to ensure you and Garno aren't drawn together.


----------



## Garno

Phil Pascoe said:


> Padster - if you join in with Secret Santa I'll fiddle the draw to ensure you and Garno aren't drawn together.


 That did tickle me Phil


----------



## Jameshow

What happens if your no good at making something.....can swap a bird box for a set D_W chisels!!! 

Cheers James


----------



## Doug B

Made this aluminium insert with guide blocks for the bandsaw with the help of a mate, not my idea but one I came across on Instagram but as it seemed to have merit I thought worth a try.

















Purely for straight cuts in particular deep cutting, I’m trying a type of nylon used for wear strips at the mo for the guide blocks but am thinking of trying Lignum Vitae when I get time.


----------



## pulleyt

This is my first attempt at small box making and i wanted to integrate it with Kumiko decoration. These experimental boxes are elm with maple kumiko panels. The lining on the hexagonal box is also maple; the lining on the rectangular box is cedar.

The hexagonal box lid is 'open' i.e. no backing to the kumiko panel so it could be used for pot pourri (a throw back to the 1980's). The other has is a backing to keep out the dust.


----------



## GregW

Doug B said:


> Made this aluminium insert with guide blocks for the bandsaw with the help of a mate, not my idea but one I came across on Instagram but as it seemed to have merit I thought worth a try.
> 
> View attachment 118055
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 118053
> 
> 
> View attachment 118054
> 
> 
> Purely for straight cuts in particular deep cutting, I’m trying a type of nylon used for wear strips at the mo for the guide blocks but am thinking of trying Lignum Vitae when I get time.



Great job.
Could you do one more for me? 
How much you would charge?
if I like to order one to fit it into my?


----------



## Garno

pulleyt said:


> This is my first attempt at small box making and i wanted to integrate it with Kumiko decoration. These experimental boxes are elm with maple kumiko panels. The lining on the hexagonal box is also maple; the lining on the rectangular box is cedar.
> 
> The hexagonal box lid is 'open' i.e. no backing to the kumiko panel so it could be used for pot pourri (a throw back to the 1980's). The other has is a backing to keep out the dust.
> 
> View attachment 118058



Are they honestly your first attempt? 
They look absolutely amazing


----------



## GregW

Garno said:


> Are they honestly your first attempt?
> They look absolutely amazing


I would like offer for your pens too, as gifts for senior member of my family


----------



## MarkAW

Those are really good!


----------



## Garno

GregW said:


> I would like offer for your pens too, as gifts for senior member of my family



Message sent


----------



## pulleyt

Garno said:


> Are they honestly your first attempt?
> They look absolutely amazing


Thank you
These are the first trinket sized boxes I've made. I wanted to have a go with the masking tape method I watched in this Mike Farrington video. I've a fair bit of experience with the Kumiko panels now so it was more an exercise to make sure I could get the angles of the box sides accurately cut. They were a fun project and a great way of using some off-cuts. I think I know what may be the Christmas gifts for the extended family this year


----------



## Doug B

GregW said:


> Great job.
> Could you do one more for me?
> How much you would charge?
> if I like to order one to fit it into my?


You’d be better getting one made locally, I made mine at a mates as I don’t have a miller but I still had to fettle it at the lathe to get it to friction fit the table opening when I got it back to my shop.


----------



## Rodpr

Beautiful boxes!


----------



## Garno

pulleyt said:


> I think I know what may be the Christmas gifts for the extended family this year




Adoption papers on the way


----------



## Fitzroy

A quick plane till, finally a place to keep them rather than just lying around.


----------



## Jameshow

Fitzroy said:


> A quick plane till, finally a place to keep them rather than just lying around.
> View attachment 118147


What happens why you get another plane?!! 

Cheers James


----------



## Fitzroy

Jameshow said:


> What happens why you get another plane?!!
> 
> Cheers James


I always overthink things, so typically I’d have:
- Made it twice oversize, for the other planes that are on my ‘need’ list.
- Made it from oak with unnecessary joinery so it would last a lifetime.
- Glued it and screwed it, just in case.
- Built a sketchup model with accuracy to three decimal places. 
- etc

It was super refreshing to make something by eye, with no measurements, and in a reasonable period of time.
Fitz.


----------



## Fitzroy

Lots of workshop sorting out at the mo. After figuring out how to sharpen the chisels, and picking up a couple of extra sizes, the morticer is now firmly in service. Not a full rebuild but broken down into parts, derusted, degreased, and desawdusted, and rebuilt. Works well, and will do 19mm mortices in oak without too much effort.


----------



## Doug B

Something a bit different for a change, a chap wanted two feet to hold a piece of 10mm toughened glass to act as a screen.
Made from air dried English Oak & finished with Osmo oil


----------



## TomW

Another in a series of very random projects. This one being a Xylophone.
Maple body and Iroko keys with a brass crown inlay, which is a first too as I've never done any inlay work.

Body ended up being doweled rather than any finer form of joinery just because it was already dragging on a bit. With the internal panel (not seen) and the handles overlapping the joins it's probably more than sturdy enough.

Tuning the keys is a bit of a job in itself, spindle sander a must imo and despite all the info I found saying to scallop with a bandsaw first that just always seemed a bit gung ho for me.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Doug B said:


> Made this aluminium insert with guide blocks for the bandsaw with the help of a mate, not my idea but one I came across on Instagram but as it seemed to have merit I thought worth a try.
> 
> View attachment 118055
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Purely for straight cuts in particular deep cutting, I’m trying a type of nylon used for wear strips at the mo for the guide blocks but am thinking of trying Lignum Vitae when I get time.



sorry to say but that seems like a really really bad idea beautifully exicuted. 

There are good reasons why every bandsaw I ever seen or heard of has guide blocks under the table, they allow sawdust to drop through the table and for it to drop away or for a little to accumulate on the blocks without effecting the cut.

What problems are they going to solve?


----------



## RichardG

Elm bowl 200mm diameter. Rough turned wet, dried and then finished using Satin Treatex.

Biggest learning point was to wet turn the mounting spigot as large as will fit it the jaws as by the time it had dried the resulting turned round spigot was only just gripped by the jaws and led to a rather small base.


----------



## Orraloon

A very nice bowl. I think the small foot makes it look just right.
Regards
John


----------



## Phill05

What was I thinking?




Cut out of a very hard Mahogany but not sure what family it is, so hard it does not need a finish on it.
And in the background is a very old tree turned to stone.


----------



## Yorkieguy

RichardG said:


> Elm bowl 200mm diameter. Rough turned wet, dried and then finished using Satin Treatex.
> 
> Biggest learning point was to wet turn the mounting spigot as large as will fit it the jaws as by the time it had dried the resulting turned round spigot was only just gripped by the jaws and led to a rather small base.View attachment 118381
> View attachment 118382


A beautifully shaped bowl, skilfully turned and finished. The proportions look just right to my eyes, including the foot, and the external and internal curves have a smooth transition, and the wall thickness just right. No sanding marks, and no dimple or pip in the bottom either! The grain patterning is superb. Elm, like sycamore can often look bland, but I think that's the nicest bowl I've seen in a long time, and I've no doubt it would be a competition winner. Really well done!

David.


----------



## owen

Phill05 said:


> What was I thinking?
> 
> View attachment 118479
> 
> 
> Cut out of a very hard Mahogany but not sure what family it is, so hard it does not need a finish on it.
> And in the background is a very old tree turned to stone.



That's amazing!


----------



## Mick p

A good friend gave me 8 pieces of shapele 12 inch square x 3 thick really boring turning it as not much graining I finished it with 3 coats of danish oil left to dry then denibbed between coats and finished with 3 coats of Hampshire sheen gloss finishing wax that made the grain pop and happy with the results


----------



## Terrytpot

sometimewoodworker said:


> sorry to say but that seems like a really really bad idea beautifully exicuted.
> 
> There are good reasons why every bandsaw I ever seen or heard of has guide blocks under the table, they allow sawdust to drop through the table and for it to drop away or for a little to accumulate on the blocks without effecting the cut.
> 
> What problems are they going to solve?


You’ll not like this one either then?


----------



## clogs

Doug B 
nice looking claw hammer.....


----------



## TomW

Weekend project. 

Plant stand, oak, little dovetails and a half lap in the middle. Aim was to have it be all joinery and no fixings. 

Made to match our living room furniture and the wax/linseed finish seems to have done a decent job. 

Got the bits cut to do a second one as well to replace one out of shot I made out of pine and has some nails (shock horror) holding it together


----------



## TRITON

Fitzroy said:


> Lots of workshop sorting out at the mo. After figuring out how to sharpen the chisels, and picking up a couple of extra sizes, the morticer is now firmly in service. Not a full rebuild but broken down into parts, derusted, degreased, and desawdusted, and rebuilt. Works well, and will do 19mm mortices in oak without too much effort.
> View attachment 118157


I'm sorry but you're never going to win any design awards with that skateboard


----------



## Mel769

Finally almost completed kitchen refit; this is the last under corner cabinet & shelves and also wall cabinet done a few months ago. Most of the timber is recycled furniture from freecycle. It's taken a while.


----------



## hlvd

Doug B said:


> This fuse box cupboard.


That’s lovely, nice shadow gaps.


----------



## Fitzroy

I bought a dozen oak sleepers about 8 yrs ago to make raised beds. I made one and then realised we’re not really the gardening type. They are nice and dry now, and some rather split, but it’s not too hard to get some usable timber out of them. Going to turn them into some garden seating, first seat made. 28 mortices in one seat, morticer is going to earn its keep.


----------



## Garno

New Series Screw Cap RB

Wood :- Sapele

Finish :- Sanding sealer, Melamine and Carnauba wax

Time :- 4.5 hours over 2 days


----------



## Doug B

Terrytpot said:


> You’ll not like this one either then?



That’s really nicely made thanks for sharing, I cut my support blocks so they aren’t in front of the gullet & the slot was milled with a 1/4” cutter so as to give plenty of clearance for debris.
Cutting the slot with the bandsaw blade like in the video & having the blocks either side of the gullet may cause a bit of restriction but to be fair I used a solid plywood disc with a bandsaw cut for the slot for years without problem.


----------



## D_W

If a workman makes pens well, is it good penmanship?


----------



## D_W

Someone on the US forums goes on at length about seaton chest chisels and the lack of a need for bevels because of how thin they are, so I figured I'd make some. Though I ended up so far not dead copying the seaton chest chisels, and I don't think I will (they have longer necks and bigger facets - I may change that later, and the all steel chisels are probably closer on average to a tip thickness of 0.5-0.7" - these are .08" at the top of the bevel. It doesn't sound like much, but .05 is lots thinner - I'm just a little lazy right now about grinding them, but my grinding setup is a post-heat-treat grind, so there's no reason these can't just be ground thinner as is. 

I got the seaton chest book (Which wasn't available here, but thanks to wonderful Taths, I ignored the request to buy the book domestically and bought it anyway, and it took a little bit of time to get it and I figured I'd hear back that they figured out that I was in the US - but instead, the book arrived with a by no means needed apology that covid had made things a bit slow). 

Long story short, there are some chisels in the book that do have small bevels ground on them, so these have the same (I just like them better with, no matter how thin they are). 

The bevels will be cleaned up and they'll all be shallow in the end to take advantage of the buffer making a superior edge ahead of a shallow bevel. 

The handles are apple, which isn't that easy to get here. A quick coat of linseed oil and wax. It's so close to the color of cherry, which is a color that I favor for some reason - it's a color with life in it, not gray and dead looking, not bright white with clear WB finish, not purple or blue, etc. 

There will be six of these when I'm done. They are for me, as are a lot of the chisels that I post - this kind of obsessive chisel making would be less fun if it was a business. 

Interestingly, the best way I've found to make these kinds of handles is to use the sander to do the rough work and then not the fine work (i hate sanding, but my grinding setup is two decent sanders and some wheel grinders - I noticed all of the nice guys do their rough shaping of handles - and some do finishing - with sanders). After the sander, just clean up and final size with a nicholson super shear and a mill file (no final sanding - I hate final sanding). 

They are 26c3 steel like many of the recent chisels - a very classic feeling steel as there's no free alloying other than carbon roaming around in the iron (At least nothing noticeable). There's a small bit of manganese and chromium for hardenability but at least on the chromium side it's a fraction of a percent and it ends up in the iron carbides instead of becoming free roaming chromium carbides).

The small gap between the handle and bolster will close with not much use, and the pillowing filed on to the top of the handles could be more perfect, but it's nice to make things quick and not quite so prissy.


----------



## Fanous

I've made myself a bench! And I can confirm doing so without one is a challange...

Southern yellow pine for most of it, oak dowel and wedges, nothern poplar vice block (I grabbed the first suitable size wood I had at hand). Bench can be knocked down into smaller parts that would fit in a car. Later on, I will make the piece for tools that will fit in the top gap, and I have some orders on the way to drill holes for dogs and holdfasts.

Bench will remain untreated, as I don't see this as a beauty furniture, but a functional jig, so I'm going for high friction, low looks.

It's pretty much my first major wood build, and I'm pretty happy with the results! Started my woodworking journey a year ago. Many lessons learnt.


----------



## Garno

D_W said:


> If a workman makes pens well, is it good penmanship?



If a different workman makes a better pen is that then called one-uppenship?


----------



## D_W

I'll have to get back to you on that. This discussion puts me in a pensive mood. And if that later changes to dismissive, does that mean that we change from pensive to expensive?


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Happen.


----------



## thetyreman

Finished my Japanese style Sawhorses today,

it's all draw bore tenons and I had to make an Koshi-ire mechigai-zuki ari tsugi (half-lapped, half blind tenoned dovetail joint for the braces, because I didn't have pieces long enough, most of the wood is upcycled and re-used from my original sawhorses where the joints were beggining to weaken and fail, it was a fun build and will definitely outlast me.

I am not sure whether to burn it shou sugi ban style or just leave it as is, let me know what you think?


----------



## Cabinetman

Fanous said:


> I've made myself a bench! And I can confirm doing so without one is a challange...
> 
> Southern yellow pine for most of it, oak dowel and wedges, nothern poplar vice block (I grabbed the first suitable size wood I had at hand). Bench can be knocked down into smaller parts that would fit in a car. Later on, I will make the piece for tools that will fit in the top gap, and I have some orders on the way to drill holes for dogs and holdfasts.
> 
> Bench will remain untreated, as I don't see this as a beauty furniture, but a functional jig, so I'm going for high friction, low looks.
> 
> It's pretty much my first major wood build, and I'm pretty happy with the results! Started my woodworking journey a year ago. Many lessons learnt.


First major bit of work? That’s pretty damn good! Just would say that a toolrack in between might be what you have seen others do but I’m pretty sure you will find it gets in the way all the time, I would suggest that you replace it with a planing stop, much more useful. Ian


----------



## D_W

Add one more to the group of 6 - it's funny when you do anything different, you find out how bad some of your ideas are (even if they're subtle). I like the look of the tapering corners on then handles of the first two more than a plain octagonal handle, but unless you snip the ends of the corners at the handle tops off in an ugly way, they really dig into the hand.

Handle three is octagonal, and a little bit blah, but the remaining three will be the same way. All will be ground thinner at the end bevel end later (no rush, all of the finish grinding is done after hardening, and it makes little difference if it's done before or after the handle is installed). All have significantly rounded over "pillow" shaped tops on the handle, even though you can't see it from this angle. even with that, the sharp-ish corners made by the taper are uncomfortable, and you can see the corners clipped off of the top chisel handle in the picture (it looks OK from this angle, but from the top of the handle, it looks like what it is - a last second fix to a poor idea - a cobble job)






There aren't many handles of this style on bench chisels in the US (i don't know if I've ever seen one in person, but I could probably prove myself wrong pretty quickly by just looking at ebay listings). the sash chisels in another thread here appear to have a style more similar to the bottom (often fat at the bolster end with some excess, but I left the bolsters larger to accommodate) - it's funny how picky you can get about feel of things if you can just make something. the same thing happens with guitar necks. Once you can make a guitar neck, you will suddenly be less hesitant about stripping finish off of other guitars (even expensive ones) and fixing bits that you don't find that fantastic - often those bits are due to lack of labor to finish fairing curves vs. just sand something that comes off of a CNC leaving kind of ganky shoulders).


----------



## Fanous

Cabinetman said:


> First major bit of work? That’s pretty damn good! Just would say that a toolrack in between might be what you have seen others do but I’m pretty sure you will find it gets in the way all the time, I would suggest that you replace it with a planing stop, much more useful. Ian



Yeah I've done little shelving unit for my missus before, and little bit's and bobs. Nothing of this magnitude! Thanks for the kind words.

I think you are right, migh just do a simple stop, that can be flipped to make it flush for more footprint for work. Cheers


----------



## Cabinetman

Fanous said:


> Yeah I've done little shelving unit for my missus before, and little bit's and bobs. Nothing of this magnitude! Thanks for the kind words.
> 
> I think you are right, migh just do a simple stop, that can be flipped to make it flush for more footprint for work. Cheers


Just checking, have you seen Mike Siemsen's work holding on a viceless bench? Definitely worth a look – he doesn’t actually suggest you don’t have a vice but he shows all sorts of different ways of holding wood down on the bench. Yes he is American, don’t hold that against him, he's the only one I would recommend that you watch. Ian


----------



## NickDReed

Nothing too labour intensive. I foraged a beech worktop from a skip and made a few chopping boards. End grain one has cherry edging. Had to make some interesting shapes to use as much of the worktop as possible. The design council are happy with the outcome and they were free. Win win.


----------



## Fanous

Cabinetman said:


> Just checking, have you seen Mike Siemsen's work holding on a viceless bench? Definitely worth a look – he doesn’t actually suggest you don’t have a vice but he shows all sorts of different ways of holding wood down on the bench. Yes he is American, don’t hold that against him, he's the only one I would recommend that you watch. Ian



I'll give it a watch


----------



## Sachakins

Trying hand at small turning for a change. Selection of bottle stoppers.


----------



## Stigmorgan

The schools Reception aground needed a new mud kitchen after the old one literally fell apart so over the last few days I threw this together for them





Excuse the mess in the background, I have a lot of cr*p in the schools boiler room.


----------



## Phill05

Stigmorgan said:


> The schools Reception aground needed a new mud kitchen after the old one literally fell apart so over the last few days I threw this together for them
> View attachment 118919
> 
> 
> Excuse the mess in the background, I have a lot of cr*p in the schools boiler room.



Is this a his and hers, I hope you've taken the sharp edges off.


----------



## Jacob

Phill05 said:


> Is this a his and hers, I hope you've taken the sharp edges off.


 and don't stand up too hastily!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Phill05 said:


> Is this a his and hers, I hope you've taken the sharp edges off.


Haha, I just copied the old one. All edges and corners were rounded off, rough sanded with 80grit and 120grit on an electric sander then painted with cuprinol fence preserver in medium oak colour. The legs are made from a recycled plastic bench that fell apart.


----------



## Garden Shed Projects

Sachakins said:


> Trying hand at small turning for a change. Selection of bottle stoppers.
> 
> View attachment 118822
> View attachment 118823
> View attachment 118824
> View attachment 118825
> View attachment 118826


They look lovely but who’s only drinking 1/2 bottle of wine at a time?


----------



## NickVanBeest

Garden Shed Projects said:


> They look lovely but who’s only drinking 1/2 bottle of wine at a time?


It's to put a stopper in the final bottle of the night


----------



## Phil Pascoe

No such thing as a part full final bottle of the night.


----------



## mikej460

More worrying is the number of half full bottles...


----------



## DavidConnelly




----------



## Garno

DavidConnelly said:


> View attachment 118950



Wow, that looks good


----------



## Henniep

Hi all. New to the forum and navigation around the site, so please bear with me.
A short while ago somebody posted an article about a jewelry box he had made and, if I remember rightly, asked for some ideas? 
A few years ago I was panel beaten into making jewelry boxes for our daughters for their birthdays. Here are some of the results.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Henniep said:


> Hi all. New to the forum and navigation around the site, so please bear with me.
> A short while ago somebody posted an article about a jewelry box he had made and, if I remember rightly, asked for some ideas?
> A few years ago I was panel beaten into making jewelry boxes for our daughters for their birthdays. Here are some of the results.


Those are beautiful


----------



## Garno

Henniep said:


> Hi all. New to the forum and navigation around the site, so please bear with me.
> A short while ago somebody posted an article about a jewelry box he had made and, if I remember rightly, asked for some ideas?
> A few years ago I was panel beaten into making jewelry boxes for our daughters for their birthdays. Here are some of the results.



Your daughters should be very proud of having such a beautiful gift.


----------



## Glyn Hyatt

My second project. A toy box made for my granddaughter. Made from leftover oak flooring for the frame, oak veneered ply for the panels and a sheet of mirrored Perspex inlaid into the underside of the lid. Finish is 3 sprayed layers of Ronseal diamond hard varnish.


----------



## Fitzroy

Finally got the front door finished. Really pleased I chose to renovate rather than replace. Took way more hours than expected but should be good for another lifetime. 

Jobs done:
- Removed old mortice lock, found the internals were missing so any old bit of metal could have opened it. Had to shim the mortice for the modern lock. 
- Removed old vertical letter box, routed opening to an accurate shape and glued in new piece of Doug for. Split a 5/8 oak dowel to match the beading. 
- Routed and fit new horizontal letter box. 
- Sized an glued new strip to side of door so it filled the frame better. 
- Removed, stripped and repainted the hinges and hinge screws. On one hinge I updated the screws but I don’t like to look so needed to find replacement slotted ones. 
- Removed and repaired several trim pieces that were loose and/or split. Thankfully none so far gone that I had to remake them. 
- Removed, stripped and repainted the wether bar. 
- Sanded, filled many holes, undercoated, filled more holes, more sanding, more undercoating, sand, coat one, sand, finish coat. 
- Removed, stripped (sympathetically), buffed, all door furniture. Managed to retain plenty of patina. Refitted. 

Fitz.


----------



## JAW911

We have a bridge over a stream that we replaced 8 or so years ago. I kept the old Douglas Fir boards under a shed just in case! The five bar gate at the end of the drive gave up the ghost last year presenting me with the perfect opportunity to use the boards. The boards were not large enough for the top rail or styles so I bought more DF from a local sawmill. The boards were full of splits and knots but I managed to machine enough material for the rails and cross members. All coach bolts were stainless steel and the hinge set was galvanised so had to be powder-coated to prevent the tannin/acetic acid issue with DF. Now just need a stonemason to rebuild the collapsed wall where it will hang!!


----------



## Lefley

Roof on a shop.


----------



## Jameshow

Lefley said:


> Roof on a shop.


Gratutatious!!


----------



## Lefley

Also my half finished shelf. This week going to glue them up and load the lacquer sprayer up.


----------



## Garno

Shock Absorber

Veneered woods

Finish:- Burnishing cream, CA

5 Hours 15 Mins

Cut own brass tube


----------



## D_W

Set of 6 of the "seaton-ish" chisels finished. Could've waited until all were done, but shop time has been more scarce than usual, so it's taken a while to get them done. 

handles are a mish mash of styles - I think I like typical octagonal best. any gaps showing between handle and bolster will close with actual use pretty quickly, just haven't had a chance to use them. .07" thick at the bevel now, just under 0.25" up at the tang - definitely a different feel weight-wise, but not undesirable, and they can be struck with any reasonable amount of force (the tang taper keeps them from being too flexible without having to make the ends fat).


----------



## Chunkytfg

Garage/Workshop was getting severely cramped with all the non Woodwork junk so I built myself a shed

4.5m(5m with overhangs) x 3m. 2.5m tall.

Siberien Larch Board on Board cladding on the show faces and Steel Box Profile cladding on the unseen bits.

GRP roof as I had a load left over from building my house extension.

Hated putting on the Osmo oil on all 4 sides of every single piece of cladding but needed to be done.































Excuse the State of the Garden. It's going to get a makeover at some point but I've got 2.5 bathrooms and a kitchen to save up for and fit before that happens!


----------



## Simon89

Garno said:


> Shock Absorber
> 
> Veneered woods
> 
> Finish:- Burnishing cream, CA
> 
> 5 Hours 15 Mins
> 
> Cut own brass tube
> 
> View attachment 119056
> View attachment 119057
> View attachment 119058
> View attachment 119059
> View attachment 119060
> View attachment 119061


Always interesting to hear how long a project took. Nice work


----------



## stuart little

Chunkytfg said:


> Garage/Workshop was getting severely cramped with all the non Woodwork junk so I built myself a shed
> 
> 4.5m(5m with overhangs) x 3m. 2.5m tall.
> 
> Siberien Larch Board on Board cladding on the show faces and Steel Box Profile cladding on the unseen bits.
> 
> GRP roof as I had a load left over from building my house extension.
> 
> Hated putting on the Osmo oil on all 4 sides of every single piece of cladding but needed to be done.
> 
> View attachment 119084
> 
> 
> View attachment 119085
> 
> 
> View attachment 119086
> 
> 
> View attachment 119087
> 
> 
> View attachment 119088
> 
> 
> View attachment 119089
> 
> 
> Excuse the State of the Garden. It's going to get a makeover at some point but I've got 2.5 bathrooms and a kitchen to save up for and fit before that happens!
> 
> View attachment 119090


What garden?? HA Ha!


----------



## Amateur

Just finishing up on small table made from English elm.


----------



## Amateur

If there are any new wwks looking at this its important to consider the type of legs you use for oval and non square tops.
In this case A typical square leg frame construction just doesn't fit aesthetically but making curved legs and angled out gives the table better perspective and flowing lines.
Ok it takes longer, you have to work out the design and make templates and figure out how to attach the legs to the top, but its worth that extra thought. 
Good luck with your efforts.


----------



## Garno

Amateur said:


> Just finishing up on small table made from English elm.
> 
> View attachment 119103



Looking at that I can safely say I think you have picked the wrong name for yourself on here


----------



## Amateur

Garno said:


> Looking at that I can safely say I think you have picked the wrong name for yourself on here




I was six years old when I joined.
I'm now 102 years old..LOL


----------



## Lefley

Simon89 said:


> Always interesting to hear how long a project took. Nice work


Well then. I think my 6 boxes took about 1 year and a 1/2 to get to that point. I so got to get in the shop every night for a bit rather than once every 2 months.


----------



## Sandyn

Not made of wood, but for working with wood.
I was lucky to get some scrap metal recently. A telecoms equipment rack, a rooftop antenna mast, and some heatsink blocks, all aluminium, so I made an adjustable support roller. I just used the bottom of the equipment rack as it was, complete with wheels and brakes. I cut the top off the mast, was tube, 60mm dia 5mm wall. I turned a couple of the heatsink blocks to make bearing supports. The jacking mechanism is taken from a caravan I broke up years ago, but kept the jacks in case they might come in handy some day. It adjusts anywhere from 87cm to 107 cm by cranking the jack. That coveres every tool I have where I might use the stand. I might cut the tops off the side pillars, but will use it first to see how often they get in the way. I don't often cut sheet material.
I was going to have a tilting mechanism on the roller stand, but it's not a huge problem because it's straight to start with.
If I had a £1 for every time the roller swung round and hit me on the head when I was designing/assembling it. I would be a rich guy!!.......... with a bumpy head












the mast and rack









bearing supports for the roller.


----------



## Phill05

I was asked by a friend's wife if I could make her a Kumiko angle block sure I can I said, I had seen one on here so went ahead with it

While I was set up I made a spare set for me to hold and show off, made the 2 sets of four to cover 90 x 15, 75 x 22.5, 60 x 30, 67.5 x 45 all made out of a very hard Mahogany it seems it does not need any finish on it,

She came back with a great report on using the blocks and asked If I can now make her a few chisels for a little lady!! another request was it possible to make a circular block well now I will have to get my thinking cap on for that one, hope to get some images of her finished work one day.


----------



## Garno

Skull Acrylic
Upgrade Gold & Gunmetal + Acrylic
Time spent 8 hours 25 Minute over 2 days
Finish :- Wet & Dry Sanding, 0000 Wire wool sanding, Wet Pad sanding, G10


----------



## Fanous

Did anyone see Johnatan Katz Moses video? I got the kit, and made the frame. Works a charm! Great tension on the blade. Feels good.


----------



## Fanous

Garno said:


> Skull Acrylic
> Upgrade Gold & Gunmetal + Acrylic
> Time spent 8 hours 25 Minute over 2 days
> Finish :- Wet & Dry Sanding, 0000 Wire wool sanding, Wet Pad sanding, G10



This photobox you have would work quite nice if you used some lights on the outside of it. The way you have it set up now is a big MEH. You can never have too much of a light, but having too little is just bad. I'm not saying this to pick up on you, but you clearly want better pictures by buying the box. So I would expect you do go the extra mile to actually make use of it. All the best.


----------



## Garno

Fanous said:


> This photobox you have would work quite nice if you used some lights on the outside of it. The way you have it set up now is a big MEH. You can never have too much of a light, but having too little is just bad. I'm not saying this to pick up on you, but you clearly want better pictures by buying the box. So I would expect you do go the extra mile to actually make use of it. All the best.



You mean have lights shining into it as well? I have the lights switched on in the inside so I am thinking maybe it is the Camera.
You are right the pictures really do not come out very well at all.


----------



## Fanous

Garno said:


> You mean have lights shining into it as well? I have the lights switched on in the inside so I am thinking maybe it is the Camera.
> You are right the pictures really do not come out very well at all.



I'd get two LED construction lights from screwfix, to keep the cost down (studio lights expensive!), and position them on each side of the box, and light the box up. The box is basically a soft white fabric, which will let light through, it will result in indirect light, softer and difused. . Once you have the lights, you can experiment with them, position them in various places, make notes, but don't change the position of the camera or the pen. Eventually, you will find out where to keep the lights the best.


----------



## Garno

I have played about on editing a little and it has improved them a little but I need to change how I take photo's, I will give those lights a try at the end of the month.


----------



## Fanous

Good effort editing this. About the level of bright I would be happy with. Deffo would be better to have this to start with.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Just finished making my first chopping board. Mam requested the first chopping board i make to be hers, so i used up some scraps of american black walnut i had to make this end grain chopping board. These are a lot more labour intensive than i thought. The board has had an overnight bath in food grade mineral oil and then waxed with my home made finish.

I took a little bit of a deep dive and experimented with different ratio mixes of beeswax, mineral oil, and carnauba wax to make my own food safe chopping board conditioner wax. Also did some experimenting on the new vinyl cutter to mess about with the tin and the label/instructions. It’s a little bit over the top considering that i’ve never sold anything i’ve made to date!


----------



## mikej460

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Just finished making my first chopping board. Mam requested the first chopping board i make to be hers, so i used up some scraps of american black walnut i had to make this end grain chopping board. These are a lot more labour intensive than i thought. The board has had an overnight bath in food grade mineral oil and then waxed.
> 
> I also took a deep dive and experimented with different ratio mixes of beeswax, mineral oil, and carnauba wax to make my own food safe chopping board conditioner. Also did some experimenting on the new vinyl cutter to mess about with the tin and the label/instructions. It’s a little bit over the top considering that i’ve never sold anything i’ve made to date!
> 
> View attachment 119433
> View attachment 119434
> View attachment 119435
> View attachment 119436
> View attachment 119437
> View attachment 119438
> View attachment 119439
> View attachment 119440
> View attachment 119441
> View attachment 119442


Beautiful chopping board - very much high end market (lucky Mam) you could definitely sell it but you need to high price it accordingly then work on streamlining your production process to reduce your labour and develop other variants from solid wood that are less expensive but still high end and possibly more profitable. I like the Board Butter idea.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

mikej460 said:


> Beautiful chopping board - very much high end market (lucky Mam) you could definitely sell it but you need to high price it accordingly then work on streamlining your production process to reduce your labour and develop other variants from solid wood that are less expensive but still high end and possibly more profitable. I like the Board Butter idea.


Thanks Mike, i appreciate the kind comments. 
I wouldnt even know where to look to start selling something like this, and also wouldnt have a clue what kinda price i could realistically ask either?


----------



## mikej460

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Thanks Mike, i appreciate the kind comments.
> I wouldnt even know where to look to start selling something like this, and also wouldnt have a clue what kinda price i could realistically ask either?


I suggest you research. Try online first to gauge what high end kitchenware like this is sold online and at what price point then checkout local independent kitchenware retailers to test if they may be happy to sell your low volume, high quality chopping boards and pay you an amount that provides an acceptable profit. Here is our local retailer as an example Abraxas Cookshop | 01327 341080 | Cookware | Kitchenware | Baking Keep it small and controllable and also setup your own website with a catchy name and logo. Items like this are also bought as gifts so research the gift market. You could also research craft fairs you could attend next year but that would mean a sizeable overhead (stall rental, display etc.). You could also look into getting small business advice from such places as this Starting up and Business Planning | Business Wales (gov.wales) 

What ever you do keep your overheads low and grow slowly - cash is king in a small business.

Hope that helps.


----------



## Fanous

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Just finished making my first chopping board. Mam requested the first chopping board i make to be hers, so i used up some scraps of american black walnut i had to make this end grain chopping board. These are a lot more labour intensive than i thought. The board has had an overnight bath in food grade mineral oil and then waxed with my home made finish.
> 
> I took a little bit of a deep dive and experimented with different ratio mixes of beeswax, mineral oil, and carnauba wax to make my own food safe chopping board conditioner wax. Also did some experimenting on the new vinyl cutter to mess about with the tin and the label/instructions. It’s a little bit over the top considering that i’ve never sold anything i’ve made to date!



Great effort on the first board - something I also have on my list of things to make, but my list is rather long, and things are crossed out of it at a slow pace. But I would be damn chuffed if this would be the end result of my try. Well done mate!


----------



## martin.pearson

That chopping board looks superb, I have made a few edge grain boards & one end grain board & the end grain board was far more work than the others. Have seen quite a lot of people who make & sell Cutting boards also sell their own board butter which I guess is a good idea, keeps you in people's minds for any other sort of work they might need doing.
Mine are just sitting about the workshop along with quite a lot of other stuff as I am the same as you & don't have a clue how to price them plus I don't really think my work is good enough to sell but that's a different story.


----------



## D_W

A plane iron (will post updated pictures after tempering it and surface finishing). I've made a bunch of these, but sometimes it's nice to make one that fits a lateral adjuster dead on (there's no extra cost to it). Minimal tooling, just a drill press, a hacksaw, flat stock ordered from a metal supplier and a upgraded version of the common 4x36 bench top sander (one called "bucktool" here that actually tensions a belt and has power, and a flat platen).

Total time from flat stock to iron ready for heat treatment is 40 minutes (if using something more resistant to filing like the steel that I suspect is V11, you can double that, but the process is the same except that I dribble water into the holes drilled down the slot length while drilling to make sure the metal never gets hot. Some of the highly alloyed steels will air harden to full hardness and annealing them takes vermiculite insulation overnight - no thanks).

Why bother? The cost to make an iron other than the hour total that it will be after heat treatment, grinding the bevel and flattening is about $10, and the iron will be high hardness and with a fine grained steel almost identical to japanese white steel. Anything that tempers 450F or lower and that doesn't need to be heated above 1900F quickly can be done without much equipment. An iron that at least matches Hock's high carbon steel irons can be made for about $10-12 with very high quality US O1 stock, and you can play with top style, slot width and hardness if you want something different (you can also do whatever you want for thickness).

Most steels that don't heat treat well in open atmosphere are steels we wouldn't use for woodworking, anyway (like CPM M4, which works fine - it's actually great, but it's eye-bleedingly expensive to buy it, have a machine shop cut and grind irons and then have proper heat treatment done - if a woodworking firm offered irons in CPM M4, they'd probably have to be $150-$200.)

(the blue on this is just layout fluid - it'll disappear as soon as it sees heat in the quench, and any scuzz left will be removed when glazing the finished iron.)

This one is 26c3 - like white steel, it sharpens crisply at high hardness, but without anything other than iron and carbon, it'll last slightly less long than a high quality O1 iron - but it doesn't chip easily, and the sharpening interval can easily be a minute - the bargain for liking any sharpening medium and sharpening and grinding fast vs. ideal edge life is a fair one. For some steels, like A2, it's not as good - A2 is pickier about abrasives and will lose its edge to some natural types, and it seems to grind and hone more slowly than 20% slower (which is its edge life edge over O1 at same hardness), and it nicks more easily.






Edited to add the final iron - pushed the limits on the quench in speed and lower temp, and got a crack from the keyhole part of the way through the edge. If it only ever goes halfway, I'll never get to it, but no reason to finish glazing the iron behind this. I'll use this iron, but make another one (worst case, ten dollars lost - best case, the crack doesn't propagate. The iron is very hard and takes a super finish off of a simple washita (next to finish) arkansas stone. 






The first test shaving off of the iron, washita, then stropped on the corner of a soft buffing wheel. Certainly thin enough to see through. 






Resulting reflectivity on an unfinished cherry edge, plenty bright enough to reflect the file handle and the can of spray paint. 





All without ever using any true finishing stones. This is the draw for making some of your own tools - manipulating the variables to get something really unusual and convenient to use.


----------



## Stevekane

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Just finished making my first chopping board. Mam requested the first chopping board i make to be hers, so i used up some scraps of american black walnut i had to make this end grain chopping board. These are a lot more labour intensive than i thought. The board has had an overnight bath in food grade mineral oil and then waxed with my home made finish.
> 
> I took a little bit of a deep dive and experimented with different ratio mixes of beeswax, mineral oil, and carnauba wax to make my own food safe chopping board conditioner wax. Also did some experimenting on the new vinyl cutter to mess about with the tin and the label/instructions. It’s a little bit over the top considering that i’ve never sold anything i’ve made to date!
> 
> View attachment 119433
> View attachment 119434
> View attachment 119435
> View attachment 119436
> View attachment 119437
> View attachment 119438
> View attachment 119439
> View attachment 119440
> View attachment 119441
> View attachment 119442


I really like the design of your board, esp the angled edges and finger grips, it seems terrible to be cutting on somthing so nice! 
Steve.


----------



## donpereira

First ever woodwork, I dont think they even let us hold a file at my school!

Pretty happy with the result, definitely a learning process and how not to panic after a c*ck-up. There were many of them!

Now I need to learn how to paint...


----------



## Stigmorgan

donpereira said:


> First ever woodwork, I dont think they even let us hold a file at my school!
> 
> Pretty happy with the result, definitely a learning process and how not to panic after a c*ck-up. There were many of them!
> 
> Now I need to learn how to paint...View attachment 119496
> View attachment 119495
> 
> 
> View attachment 119494


Thats really nice, would never know its your first attempt.


----------



## Henniep

donpereira said:


> First ever woodwork, I dont think they even let us hold a file at my school!
> 
> Pretty happy with the result, definitely a learning process and how not to panic after a c*ck-up. There were many of them!
> 
> Now I need to learn how to paint...View attachment 119496
> View attachment 119495
> 
> 
> View attachment 119494


Very impressive. Own design, or from plans? Does it fold down? Well done.


----------



## martin.pearson

*First ever woodwork, I dont think they even let us hold a file at my school!*

*Pretty happy with the result, definitely a learning process and how not to panic after a c*ck-up. There were many of them!*

Think my first project at School was a broom holder, my Mum still has it & uses it lol That was to many years ago to think about. After School I had a 40 (odd) year gap before starting again.

Looks like you have done a great job & if there are a load of mistakes then they don't show. I would be well pleased if my projects looked like that.


----------



## donpereira

Henniep said:


> Very impressive. Own design, or from plans? Does it fold down? Well done.



The "designs" attached, only really used to work out how much wood I needed to buy and to work out the width of bits. Kind of a hybrid from what I saw someone do on youtube and an easel you can buy. It folds down to a table for varnishing and if you knock out the tusks, it'll collapse flat (ish) to hide under a bed or to move to a new home.

Wanted to do some woodwork for ages so I've been happy seeing something come together in front of me. Beats the spreadsheets I look at all day! Thanks all for the kind words.


----------



## Chunkytfg

Building the first of 3 built in wardrobes for the bedrooms in our house and first job was to make a freestanding drawer unit that goes in side the first one.

Nothing fancy just Birch Ply that will have Ash veneered ply faces on the drawers and sliding doors and if I can manage it ash edge trims to hide the exposed ply edges.

first ever time using Blum undermount slides and took me way longer than it should have done to work the sizing out but got there eventually.


----------



## Mike.R

I love the easel, that's very impressive.

I made a chopping board hoping to pull off the Café Wall Illusion in wood. 

It sort of works if you look at it sideways from a long way away.

But not that well.


----------



## Chunkytfg

Thats very nice. I've still never got round to making a chopping board! Seems like its a bit of a right of passage for woodworkers!


----------



## Mike.R

Agreed, a chopping block can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make it... and always useful.


----------



## martin.pearson

*Seems like its a bit of a right of passage for woodworkers!*

That was my reason for making some, that & I hoped at the time I might be able to sell a few lol

Mike.R Those look brilliant, must be a lot of time spent on those.


----------



## Chunkytfg

martin.pearson said:


> *Seems like its a bit of a right of passage for woodworkers!*
> 
> That was my reason for making some, that & I hoped at the time I might be able to sell a few lol
> 
> Mike.R Those look brilliant, must be a lot of time spent on those.



My issue is a lack of hardwood offcuts! Other than some sizeable planks of Ash and a couple of oak sawn boards I dont really have much in the way of offcuts. I mostly work with plywood


----------



## NickVanBeest

Chunkytfg said:


> My issue is a lack of hardwood offcuts! Other than some sizeable planks of Ash and a couple of oak sawn boards I dont really have much in the way of offcuts. I mostly work with plywood


You could do something like this:


----------



## WillM

Mike.R said:


> I love the easel, that's very impressive.
> 
> I made a chopping board hoping to pull off the Café Wall Illusion in wood.
> 
> It sort of works if you look at it sideways from a long way away.
> 
> But not that well.
> 
> View attachment 119523


Stunning. What woods did you use?


----------



## clogs

MikeR
those chopping boards are stunning....
just wish u could find hard wood off cuts here....


----------



## Padster

Another Pen as they are 'relatively' quick projects to do....













Regards

Padster


----------



## JBaz

My 18 m.o. granddaughter likes to see what mum and dad are cooking, but can't see the worksurface. I was asked to make something she could climb up and stand on without falling. 

It turned out a bit over-engineered (something I am often guilty of) so she could use it until she is 22 years old!


----------



## Lefley

pulleyt said:


> This is my first attempt at small box making and i wanted to integrate it with Kumiko decoration. These experimental boxes are elm with maple kumiko panels. The lining on the hexagonal box is also maple; the lining on the rectangular box is cedar.
> 
> The hexagonal box lid is 'open' i.e. no backing to the kumiko panel so it could be used for pot pourri (a throw back to the 1980's). The other has is a backing to keep out the dust.
> 
> View attachment 118058


Wow that’s beautiful, and a huge skill set to accomplish.


----------



## Cabinetman

Hi JBaz, that looks really good, and nothing wrong with over engineering! Any chance of a side view? Curious what holds it up at the back, and does it fold down? It might be the photo but the corners of the steps look a bit sharp if she should fall. Nicely made. Ian


----------



## Lefley

Cabinetman said:


> Hi JBaz, that looks really good, and nothing wrong with over engineering! Any chance of a side view? Curious what holds it up at the back, and does it fold down? It might be the photo but the corners of the steps look a bit sharp if she should fall. Nicely made. Ian


God! in my day and age wevwould have been lucky to get a strong cardboard box to stand on, or a poor younger brother on his hands and knees. Nice job.


----------



## JBaz

Cabinetman said:


> Hi JBaz, that looks really good, and nothing wrong with over engineering! Any chance of a side view? Curious what holds it up at the back, and does it fold down? It might be the photo but the corners of the steps look a bit sharp if she should fall. Nicely made. Ian









Side view as requested, but this time with the steps in the retracted position - about as small as it will go.
I did use threaded inserts to hold it together, so it can come apart for long term storage (until the next grandchild needs it!).


----------



## JBaz

Cardboard box! You were lucky...........


----------



## Henniep

Lefley said:


> Wow that’s beautiful, and a huge skill set to accomplish.


Out of this world. Very very attractive and obviously time consuming intricate work. Well done on excellent workmanship


----------



## Chunkytfg

Slowly getting there with my Built in wardrobes.

Had the fun experience of not doing the maths quite right on the Blum undermount drawers today and making the total width of the 6 centre drawers to be the same as what should have been the inside measurement so I've got to remake them all!! PITA

No idea why the picture is flipped though. Its the right way up on my laptop.


----------



## Geebee

Finally finished a plywood and some kind of dark brown wood desktop for the wife. The black bits are epoxy. I was pretty pleased with this considering ive never attempted anything like it. Had a few little tears out when using a routing sled. Have to build one for myself now so I don't feel left out


----------



## nickds1

Geebee said:


> Finally finished a plywood and some kind of dark brown wood desktop for the wife....


Really nice. What did you fill/seal the top with (apart from epoxy!).


----------



## DBT85

Finally finished this one on Friday. My first built in unit. Why start small 

The same friends that asked me to make the loft bed wanted this to finish their "phase 1" of moving into the new house. Birch ply, 3m wide, 2.5m tall, Blum push to open panel matched doors and drawers, Hafele shelf pins and inserts, 18mm sides and 24mm shelves. All assembled on site after unloading from the back of my Skoda Superb  My first real attempt at scribing now that I know how to do it. They are very happy, as am I to have it done and out of my workshop!

Oh, and that one overhead bulb was all the light there was. I'll get a nicer pic once it's "dressed". 

I already tagged @petermillard on twitter. His youtube channel has been a great source of knowledge and ideas and has helped give me the confidence to try this.


----------



## Cabinetman

You look to have made a really good job of that, especially considering it’s your first built-in, they can go wrong very quickly if you don’t think ahead when designing and planning. Ian


----------



## Geebee

nickds1 said:


> Really nice. What did you fill/seal the top with (apart from epoxy!).


I went with osmo poly X oil. Hoping that will be okay. Everything is a learning experience at the moment for me.


----------



## BucksDad

Amazing work Darren!


----------



## DBT85

Thanks all. I'm very pleased with the result. This week I'll write myself up a little report on what I learned throughout the design, build and install, what I'd do differently etc. I have already ordered myself a second 12v driver as constantly changing between bits was a pain and the 18v I have was just a bit too big at times, I have the impact for screw but for drilling pilots/relief holes and then countersinking it was getting daft. Treated (trut, surely?) myself to the brushless bosch as I found it cheaper than normal and only £30 more than the brushed one and I already have the others on the same batteries.



Cabinetman said:


> You look to have made a really good job of that, especially considering it’s your first built-in, they can go wrong very quickly if you don’t think ahead when designing and planning. Ian


Thank you. There was much gnashing of teeth and pondering and checking and thinking it through. It's been a work in progress for some months now. I event took the time to sapce the shelf pin holes so that they can have 3 shelves perfectly spaced or 5 shelves perfectly spaced rather than just banging in a load of holes 32mm apart. If I recall the ply delivery sheet said it all came in at 400ish kg and I had to shift it all 30m from the drive to the workshop too! 

They wanted the square cubbys at a set size so that determined everything else since I didn't want different width segments. The tablesaw was declared unsuitable early on when a test cut showed blade marks all along the edge and since its a visible edge I wasn't going to faff around removing it on every edge. Instead it was all done with the tracksaw. Naturally the curvy worktop was the biggest worry but it came out nicely in the end.

I made myself a pathfinder drawer to work out the blum tipon drawer runners, realised I had to remake the front and back, then had to remake the sides, then realised that 420mm slides in a 450mm cabinet with 18mm inset drawer faces fitted to 15mm boxes wasn't going to fit so I sorted a solution for that. That's why you to a test I suppose! It all came out well in the end.

From the install I only made 2 cockups, both on infills. The bottom one I measured to the inside right face of the drawer unit rather than the outside. I cheated a small block to fill that hole near the skirting. The other was the right most lower infil under the desk. I tried something daft and the festool planer was quite content to eat a cove into the end of the fillet and naturally on the side that was visible. Another little filler bit put in to fix that one.

Also have to thank Hart Wholesale who helped me out. I had ordered the incorrect bits for the drawers (easy to do on your first try) and they sorted it and included the extra bits at no charge in part becase I'd been incorectly told it would be in stock on x date and it wasn't.


----------



## HOJ

DBT85 said:


> to work out the blum tipon drawer runners


You may find this useful for setting out, Cabinet Configurator I haven't used this version as I have the old Dynaplan software that lets me load carcase drawings into sketchup, certainly saves a lot of extra work, nice work by the way.


----------



## Steve Beck

Geebee said:


> Finally finished a plywood and some kind of dark brown wood desktop for the wife. The black bits are epoxy. I was pretty pleased with this considering ive never attempted anything like it. Had a few little tears out when using a routing sled. Have to build one for myself now so I don't feel left out View attachment 119751


Regarding Geebee's desktop, Really nice work, it is pleasing design as it does not repeat and keeps you looking for more.


----------



## Cabinetman

@Geebee just saw your desk top, stunning! Love the seemingly random design.
I came across this cabinet whilst I was in America recently which is sort of similar – ish. The doors are tambor doors that slide open, even second hand it was $17,000.


----------



## petermillard

Looks fantastic, and a great use of the space! a good to hear your friends are happy - they should be!


----------



## gregmcateer

Lovely built-in, Darren


----------



## MichaelChou

Geebee said:


> Finally finished a plywood and some kind of dark brown wood desktop for the wife. The black bits are epoxy. I was pretty pleased with this considering ive never attempted anything like it. Had a few little tears out when using a routing sled. Have to build one for myself now so I don't feel left out View attachment 119751


This is excellent. Love the layout.


----------



## PeteHB

DBT85 said:


> Thanks all. I'm very pleased with the result. This week I'll write myself up a little report on what I learned throughout the design, build and install, what I'd do differently etc. I have already ordered myself a second 12v driver as constantly changing between bits was a pain and the 18v I have was just a bit too big at times, I have the impact for screw but for drilling pilots/relief holes and then countersinking it was getting daft. Treated (trut, surely?) myself to the brushless bosch as I found it cheaper than normal and only £30 more than the brushed one and I already have the others on the same batteries.
> 
> 
> Thank you. There was much gnashing of teeth and pondering and checking and thinking it through. It's been a work in progress for some months now. I event took the time to sapce the shelf pin holes so that they can have 3 shelves perfectly spaced or 5 shelves perfectly spaced rather than just banging in a load of holes 32mm apart. If I recall the ply delivery sheet said it all came in at 400ish kg and I had to shift it all 30m from the drive to the workshop too!
> 
> They wanted the square cubbys at a set size so that determined everything else since I didn't want different width segments. The tablesaw was declared unsuitable early on when a test cut showed blade marks all along the edge and since its a visible edge I wasn't going to faff around removing it on every edge. Instead it was all done with the tracksaw. Naturally the curvy worktop was the biggest worry but it came out nicely in the end.
> 
> I made myself a pathfinder drawer to work out the blum tipon drawer runners, realised I had to remake the front and back, then had to remake the sides, then realised that 420mm slides in a 450mm cabinet with 18mm inset drawer faces fitted to 15mm boxes wasn't going to fit so I sorted a solution for that. That's why you to a test I suppose! It all came out well in the end.
> 
> From the install I only made 2 cockups, both on infills. The bottom one I measured to the inside right face of the drawer unit rather than the outside. I cheated a small block to fill that hole near the skirting. The other was the right most lower infil under the desk. I tried something daft and the festool planer was quite content to eat a cove into the end of the fillet and naturally on the side that was visible. Another little filler bit put in to fix that one.
> 
> Also have to thank Hart Wholesale who helped me out. I had ordered the incorrect bits for the drawers (easy to do on your first try) and they sorted it and included the extra bits at no charge in part becase I'd been incorectly told it would be in stock on x date and it wasn't.



Is the top in one piece or is the curved section connected and if so what method did you use? Is it sturdy enough without a leg under it?
Really nice and it's given me a new idea for my study which was just going to get a worktop with cabinet underneath and shelves above but that curved return extension to the top looks great.


----------



## jcassidy

DBT85 said:


> I already tagged @petermillard on twitter. His youtube channel has been a great source of knowledge and ideas and has helped give me the confidence to try this.



Isn't that just the finest compliment?

Great work!


----------



## Chandra

Geebee said:


> Finally finished a plywood and some kind of dark brown wood desktop for the wife. The black bits are epoxy. I was pretty pleased with this considering ive never attempted anything like it. Had a few little tears out when using a routing sled. Have to build one for myself now so I don't feel left out View attachment 119751


Absolutely beautiful. Are they strips of plywood making most of the desktop?


----------



## Seaside Donkey

Yet another Paul Sellars style desk organiser but went crackers with a blow torch to try for a Sho Sugi Ban effect.






What did I learn? I learned that if you make well fitting drawers and lids then set them on fire they may not be quite so well fitting afterwards.


----------



## Garno

Seaside Donkey said:


> Yet another Paul Sellars style desk organiser but went crackers with a blow torch to try for a Sho Sugi Ban effect.
> 
> View attachment 119842
> 
> 
> What did I learn? I learned that if you make well fitting drawers and lids then set them on fire they may not be quite so well fitting afterwards.



I really like that


----------



## DBT85

PeteHB said:


> Is the top in one piece or is the curved section connected and if so what method did you use? Is it sturdy enough without a leg under it?
> Really nice and it's given me a new idea for my study which was just going to get a worktop with cabinet underneath and shelves above but that curved return extension to the top looks great.


While I would have preferred a single piece top, the cost and logistics of buying, moving, machining, transporting, scribing and then fitting a 3m top with a 1.2m deep section on one end on my own left me cold so I resisted that urge!

It's done in 2 equal length halves that join under the middle of the unit beneath the 2 18mm bookcase sides that land there. The curved end is just part of that right hand half of the desk. I made myself a 6mm mdf template after making a quick circle jig for my palm router and then used a bearing guided bit to get the shape onto the ply. The part that sticks out is supported by a brace on the wall but they didn't want a leg to start with. It's 24mm birch so while there is a little flex there I could probably sit on it and it won't break. The "unit" below that end is just 2 side panels and 100mm wide brace peices to support the desk. They are each secured to the adjacent cupboard and the wall and then to the desktop itself.

They asked me to do it this way and if they want it changed I'll change it.

Below you can see that section on it's own, with the scribing template laid on top as, naturally, the walls were all over the place. Not going to lie and say there were not some heebie jeebies about making the first scribe cuts on that piece.








HOJ said:


> You may find this useful for setting out, Cabinet Configurator I haven't used this version as I have the old Dynaplan software that lets me load carcase drawings into sketchup, certainly saves a lot of extra work, nice work by the way.


Yes I did use it but only after I'd already got my hardware order slightly off. considering everything else it does you;d think it would also give you the cut list for the parts for the boxes but hey ho.


----------



## HOJ

DBT85 said:


> cut list for the parts for the boxes



Suprised, Dynaplan did, plus there was a cut list, csv file .


----------



## Chunkytfg

DBT85 said:


> Finally finished this one on Friday. My first built in unit. Why start small
> 
> The same friends that asked me to make the loft bed wanted this to finish their "phase 1" of moving into the new house. Birch ply, 3m wide, 2.5m tall, Blum push to open panel matched doors and drawers, Hafele shelf pins and inserts, 18mm sides and 24mm shelves. All assembled on site after unloading from the back of my Skoda Superb  My first real attempt at scribing now that I know how to do it. They are very happy, as am I to have it done and out of my workshop!
> 
> Oh, and that one overhead bulb was all the light there was. I'll get a nicer pic once it's "dressed".
> 
> I already tagged @petermillard on twitter. His youtube channel has been a great source of knowledge and ideas and has helped give me the confidence to try this.




Thats amazing! I'm hoping mine looks even half as good as that but I'm doubting myself quite a bit!


----------



## danish

I just finishen this small oak and cotton string bench:












super fun project - 20% time spent on wood work and 80% on weaving


----------



## martin.pearson

OK so full disclosure, most of what i do is done on a CNC machine, I know some will say it's not woodworking but I don't class myself as a woodworker, more of a maker with an interest in wood. after being medically discharged from the Royal Navy (following a RTA) I worked for about 15 years as a signmaker doing cad cut vinyl & large format print, had to stop doing that for health reasons but some of the equipment I had could be used for other things such as the CNC which is how I got back into working with wood.
Was going to post a video of something done on the CNC however it seems the file is to big so this is something done without the CNC, made far a childminder who sent me a picture she found on the internet & asked if I could make something the same.


----------



## Stigmorgan

martin.pearson said:


> OK so full disclosure, most of what i do is done on a CNC machine, I know some will say it's not woodworking but I don't class myself as a woodworker, more of a maker with an interest in wood. after being medically discharged from the Royal Navy (following a RTA) I worked for about 15 years as a signmaker doing cad cut vinyl & large format print, had to stop doing that for health reasons but some of the equipment I had could be used for other things such as the CNC which is how I got back into working with wood.
> Was going to post a video of something done on the CNC however it seems the file is to big so this is something done without the CNC, made far a childminder who sent me a picture she found on the internet & asked if I could make something the same.
> 
> View attachment 119986


Dude that's awesome, I may have to steal the idea, our Reception school year group would love this for their outdoor area.


----------



## martin.pearson

Not my idea so your stealing nothing from me lol, if you do something along the same lines think a bit bigger that I did with this. After I made it I got to thinking that there was a lot of wasted space under the unit. Could have put in some cupboards for outdoor storage items for one. The area at the end where she wanted a little garden for them to look after could be almost anything, mud kitchen, sand box etc anything to do with outdoor play. I went with a clear polycarbonate panel, acrylic can get a bit brittle & could crack or break but polycarbonate is pretty much bullet proof although you do have to be a bit more careful as it will scratch & also if you go the same way make sure the polycarb is UV stable or it will yellow over time.


----------



## Fitzroy

danish said:


> I just finishen this small oak and cotton string bench:
> 
> View attachment 119967
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 119968
> 
> 
> super fun project - 20% time spent on wood work and 80% on weaving


Love it! How hard was the weaving to pickup? Wife wants me to make her something like the ‘hans wegner chair ch25’ for her 40th. Year after next so I’ve a little time to learn new skills.


----------



## martin.pearson

Fitzroy said:


> Love it! How hard was the weaving to pickup? Wife wants me to make her something like the ‘hans wegner chair ch25’ for her 40th. Year after next so I’ve a little time to learn new skills.



Can't comment on the Oak bench but I didn't find weaving that difficult to pick up, I made my Mum a small stool (from a kit) lots of years ago, I was about 12/13 at the time & it was done during arts & crafts at Boys Brigade lol, she still has it so about 50 years old now been sat on a lot over the years & still looks OK. The weaving wasn't that difficult but it is time-consuming.


----------



## martin.pearson

OK so hopefully this time I have sorted the video, this was done almost entirely on the CNC machine, it is actually from a user group meeting that the Company who produce the software I use had earlier this year so not my design but I did make a couple of changes, most important one was using a programmable door chime so I could download & instal a proper ships bell sound.


----------



## Fitzroy

Nice little fun project. Scythe for my boy at Halloween. Birch stick from the local forest, draw bored M&T for the blade, from an oak off cut. Left the pegs long as I liked the look, pencil sharpened the ends. String wrap for effect.


----------



## Orraloon

danish said:


> I just finishen this small oak and cotton string bench:
> 
> View attachment 119967
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 119968
> 
> 
> super fun project - 20% time spent on wood work and 80% on weaving


Remember doing a stool a bit like that in school woodwork. The technical teacher was there for the wood side of it but the art lady took over the weaving of the seat. She was quite the perfectionist so I did a lot of unpicking before it was done.
Anyhow I like your design but I dont think I am up for the weaving.
Regards
John


----------



## DBT85

HOJ said:


> Suprised, Dynaplan did, plus there was a cut list, csv file .
> View attachment 119844


Interesting I've not seen that in the new one. I'll have another look


Chunkytfg said:


> Thats amazing! I'm hoping mine looks even half as good as that but I'm doubting myself quite a bit!


Just think everything through 15 time before you start. That way when you think of a new problem during it all it only happens a few times, not 20


----------



## Chunkytfg

DBT85 said:


> Just think everything through 15 time before you start. That way when you think of a new problem during it all it only happens a few times, not 20




Thanks. I'm most of the way through my first one and then have 2 more bedroom ones followed by an understaffs one to do so I've plenty of chances to get it right!


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

martin.pearson said:


> OK so full disclosure, most of what i do is done on a CNC machine, I know some will say it's not woodworking



A CNC machine is just another tool - it's what you achieve with it that matters.


----------



## NickVanBeest

Just finished a little stepping stool for a friend...


----------



## Cordy

Looks great @*NickVanBeest

Can we see view from underneath please ?*


----------



## Garno

NickVanBeest said:


> Just finished a little stepping stool for a friend...
> View attachment 120117



Looks good


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Cordy said:


> Looks great @*NickVanBeest
> 
> Can we see view from underneath please ?*


What are you? a turner?


----------



## NickVanBeest

Cordy said:


> *Can we see view from underneath please ?*


Sure...

During construction:





After finishing:


----------



## Cordy

Super good NVB; so glad I asked !


----------



## Stigmorgan

Thought I'd have a 2nd go on the lathe with what was a nice piece of spalted silver birch, once rounded off I thought it looked like it wanted to be a goblet of some form, it however had different ideas and wanted to be a jigsaw puzzle.




I've recovered all the parts so could put it back together with glue or resin and try again. ( this was totally my fault, I'm struggling to use my bowl gouge without catching on the high point, thinking a swept back going might suit me better.)


----------



## thetyreman

making a microphone box, this will be lined with black leather and have a velvet interior.


----------



## RHob

Box made from London Plane and Ebonized walnut. Started off a bit of a test piece but took on a life of its own.


----------



## Stigmorgan

RHob said:


> Box made from London Plane and Ebonized walnut. Started off a bit of a test piece but took on a life of its own.


Dude that's beautiful


----------



## Cabinetman

RHob said:


> Box made from London Plane and Ebonized walnut. Started off a bit of a test piece but took on a life of its own.


 Stunning! But I think we need to be told how you did the design on the lid, and also what is the silver looking line around the edge of the top please. Ian


----------



## Mike.R

Ten years ago a neighbour had to have their ancient yew tree felled but had the foresight to have it sliced into boards and stored, drying nicely, ready to be used someday.
10 years pass and by coincidence I meet the neighbour, strike up a conversation and they tell me all about their tree.
A deal is struck.... They would like me to have the tree but in return would I make them a piece of furniture out of some of the wood so they could always remember their beautiful tree.
The perfect transaction.
The top is in one piece. Rare, I think, to get such a wide, clear board with yew and the colour is incredible, already starting to mellow as I've been working on it.


----------



## RHob

Cabinetman said:


> Stunning! But I think we need to be told how you did the design on the lid, and also what is the silver looking line around the edge of the top please. Ian



Thank you. Lid was done with a Veritas Inlay tool and then filled with resin. The silvery inlay is resin mixed with Pearl Powder. Needed the resin to stop the ebonizing bleeding into the walnut inlay and London plane

Rob


----------



## Fitzroy

Mike.R said:


> Ten years ago a neighbour had to have their ancient yew tree felled but had the foresight to have it sliced into boards and stored, drying nicely, ready to be used someday.
> 10 years pass and by coincidence I meet the neighbour, strike up a conversation and they tell me all about their tree.
> A deal is struck.... They would like me to have the tree but in return would I make them a piece of furniture out of some of the wood so they could always remember their beautiful tree.
> The perfect transaction.
> The top is in one piece. Rare, I think, to get such a wide, clear board with yew and the colour is incredible, already starting to mellow as I've been working on it.


Fabulous, love the proportions of it, the leg taper and curvy ‘stretchers’ work so well together.


----------



## RichardG

Stigmorgan said:


> Thought I'd have a 2nd go on the lathe with what was a nice piece of spalted silver birch, once rounded off I thought it looked like it wanted to be a goblet of some form, it however had different ideas and wanted to be a jigsaw puzzle.
> View attachment 120167
> 
> I've recovered all the parts so could put it back together with glue or resin and try again. ( this was totally my fault, I'm struggling to use my bowl gouge without catching on the high point, thinking a swept back going might suit me better.)


Keep at it, after a while the catches do stop happening plus you seem to develop a third sense that one is just about to happen. That's quite advanced I certainly haven't tried a goblet yet. I made a lamp stand following a video by Richard Findley and that really helped develop tool control. Mainly sticking to simply shaped bowls, boxes. mushrooms, tables....What you have left would make a nice little box.


----------



## martin.pearson

Mike.R said:


> Ten years ago a neighbour had to have their ancient yew tree felled but had the foresight to have it sliced into boards and stored, drying nicely, ready to be used someday.
> 10 years pass and by coincidence I meet the neighbour, strike up a conversation and they tell me all about their tree.
> A deal is struck.... They would like me to have the tree but in return would I make them a piece of furniture out of some of the wood so they could always remember their beautiful tree.
> The perfect transaction.
> The top is in one piece. Rare, I think, to get such a wide, clear board with yew and the colour is incredible, already starting to mellow as I've been working on it.



Really like that, think your ex-neighbour got a really good deal as well as you lol, I've got some quite wide Yew boards but they are nowhere near as long as yours look to be. The Sister in Laws Brother had a tree taken down a couple of years ago, it was taken down by a tree surgery company & I don't think using the wood was part of their plan, apparently they normally just chip the trees they takedown.


----------



## martin.pearson

*Box made from London Plane and Ebonized walnut. Started off a bit of a test piece but took on a life of its own.*

As some of my projects do lol, Great looking project, I didn't know what London Plane was when I first came across a couple of slices at my Local Sawmill, had to have some although at the time had no idea what for. Not really used it yet although I did make a couple of pens which I really like.


----------



## Stigmorgan

RichardG said:


> Keep at it, after a while the catches do stop happening plus you seem to develop a third sense that one is just about to happen. That's quite advanced I certainly haven't tried a goblet yet. I made a lamp stand following a video by Richard Findley and that really helped develop tool control. Mainly sticking to simply shaped bowls, boxes. mushrooms, tables....What you have left would make a nice little box.


There's about 3/4 of an inch taken up by the faceplate screws so not as much as it looks, I'm really considering a repair as I have all the parts, the explosion was spectacular, the gouge is also not as sharp as it should be due to only having a whetstone at the minute, hoping to get a bench grinder in the next week or so.


----------



## PeteHB

Mike.R said:


> Ten years ago a neighbour had to have their ancient yew tree felled but had the foresight to have it sliced into boards and stored, drying nicely, ready to be used someday.
> 10 years pass and by coincidence I meet the neighbour, strike up a conversation and they tell me all about their tree.
> A deal is struck.... They would like me to have the tree but in return would I make them a piece of furniture out of some of the wood so they could always remember their beautiful tree.
> The perfect transaction.
> The top is in one piece. Rare, I think, to get such a wide, clear board with yew and the colour is incredible, already starting to mellow as I've been working on it.



Did you have to steam the stretchers or did they bend naturally? I really like the combination with the legs. Did you fit drawers to the table? I ask because something similar is my next job.


----------



## Mike.R

Hello Peter, the stretchers are a nod to when yew was used for longbows. They're laminated although I'm sure such a small section could be successfully steamed.

There are no drawers but drawers could be incorporated in either or both ends. Secret drawers would work well.


----------



## D_W

These photos aren't of my make, but rather from my friend, George Wilson. They're too good not to share and he no longer posts on the internet. He's fine with me sharing them. 

This is a bronze cannon on a white oak base. It's not full size, but not small. The cannon is cut from a 5" round cylinder of bronze (it's not cast). George made it years ago and didn't finish it or make the base, but he's now over 80 and can't lift it, so he enlisted the help of another maker to help make the base and get the barrel polished, which is a lot of physical work (split between him and the fellow who helped).

The script on the front is a variation of something on french monarchs cannons, something like "the last resort of the king". That's paraphrased. 

It is functional and will safely shoot a 1 3/8 inch steel ball bearing.

There is a video set of George on YouTube building a harpsichord and violins, but he can make or machine just about anything from cannons to jewelry dies to letter stamps.


----------



## NickDReed

So a few weeks ago I bought myself a new toy. Tool! I bought myself a new tool.

Spent the last week making this stand for the new lathe. One scaffold pole and some scrap steel later and shabang! 







Must be said, I am not a metal worker! But I'm quietly pleased.

Next job to see how it works when the lathe is running and if vibration is an issue. Might upgrade it at some point to add a couple of wheels at the headstock end so it can be tilted and rolled about.








OKAY!! So it's not a cannon!! There I was feeling good about myself!!


----------



## kinverkid

NickDReed said:


> Next job to see how it works when the lathe is running and if vibration is an issue. Might upgrade it at some point to add a couple of wheels at the headstock end so it can be tilted and rolled about.


Now you've got the welder you might want to make your own castors:


----------



## Seaside Donkey

Knife presentation box in Dougie Fir. The knife in the box is for illustrative purposes only. The knife that will put in this box has a very similar pattern on the blade as the grain pattern on the front of the box.
















It comes across much darker in the pics than it is. Charred, wire brushed then dyed orange. Once that was dry I put yellow dye on top. The pics don't do it justice - there are some real subtle colour changes depending on which way the light hits it.

Was really careful with the joinery but tbh I didn't need to be. You could make a lot of mistakes and hide them in the burn.

Dithered about dyeing the beech blade rest but decided against it in case the dye bled out onto the blade which will be quite expensive.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Seaside Donkey said:


> Knife presentation box in Dougie Fir. The knife in the box is for illustrative purposes only. The knife that will put in this box has a very similar pattern on the blade as the grain pattern on the front of the box.
> 
> View attachment 120508
> 
> 
> View attachment 120509
> 
> 
> View attachment 120510
> 
> 
> It comes across much darker in the pics than it is. Charred, wire brushed then dyed orange. Once that was dry I put yellow dye on top. The pics don't do it justice - there are some real subtle colour changes depending on which way the light hits it.
> 
> Was really careful with the joinery but tbh I didn't need to be. You could make a lot of mistakes and hide them in the burn.
> 
> Dithered about dyeing the beech blade rest but decided against it in case the dye bled out onto the blade which will be quite expensive.


This is beautiful, any chance of a pic of the actual knife?


----------



## Seaside Donkey

Stigmorgan said:


> This is beautiful, any chance of a pic of the actual knife?



Hoping to see cutler next week so will try to get some pics then.


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

Mike.R said:


> Ten years ago a neighbour had to have their ancient yew tree felled but had the foresight to have it sliced into boards and stored, drying nicely, ready to be used someday.
> 10 years pass and by coincidence I meet the neighbour, strike up a conversation and they tell me all about their tree.
> A deal is struck.... They would like me to have the tree but in return would I make them a piece of furniture out of some of the wood so they could always remember their beautiful tree.
> The perfect transaction.
> The top is in one piece. Rare, I think, to get such a wide, clear board with yew and the colour is incredible, already starting to mellow as I've been working on it.


That's a lovely table @Mike.R


----------



## julianf




----------



## paulrbarnard

julianf said:


> View attachment 120568
> View attachment 120569
> View attachment 120570
> View attachment 120571
> View attachment 120572


Folding mixing desk?


----------



## Jameshow

julianf said:


> View attachment 120568
> View attachment 120569
> View attachment 120570
> View attachment 120571
> View attachment 120572


???????

What is it?!


----------



## GarF

NickDReed said:


> So a few weeks ago I bought myself a new toy. Tool! I bought myself a new tool.
> 
> Spent the last week making this stand for the new lathe. One scaffold pole and some scrap steel later and shabang! View attachment 120250
> 
> View attachment 120251
> 
> Must be said, I am not a metal worker! But I'm quietly pleased.
> 
> Next job to see how it works when the lathe is running and if vibration is an issue. Might upgrade it at some point to add a couple of wheels at the headstock end so it can be tilted and rolled about.
> View attachment 120252
> View attachment 120253
> 
> 
> OKAY!! So it's not a cannon!! There I was feeling good about myself!!


Nice job! I have a similar lathe which happened to come with a matching steel base. Based on my own experience I would recommend adding more bracing to resist racking and if possible some way to load up the base with ballast. It looks a beautifully efficient use of materials but I fear you could have trouble with vibration as it is now. HTH
G


----------



## julianf

Jameshow said:


> ???????
> 
> What is it?!





paulrbarnard said:


> Folding mixing desk?



Case for "modular analogue synthesiser"

Google image search for "doepfer" or "buhcla" and youll get the general idea.

More of the same sort of idea, just small -


----------



## Essex Barn Workshop

I made this





what is it you ask!






Possibly the simplest but most stylish key rack you’ll see today!
Solid oak. And yes, since I took the photo I have sanded the edge to get rid of the burn mark!


----------



## Farm Labourer

My first box without dovetails! Solid maple and flamed sycamore.


----------



## Cabinetman

That’s beautiful work!


----------



## RichardG

Essex Barn Workshop said:


> Possibly the simplest but most stylish key rack you’ll see today!
> Solid oak. And yes, since I took the photo I have sanded the edge to get rid of the burn mark!



Nice idea but that looks bit like a device made to snap keys in half


----------



## Mike.R

That's a really beautiful piece of work, such attention to the details. Did you make the box for anybody in particular ?


----------



## martin.pearson

+1 on what Mike.R said, how has it been lined? Is it fabric or flocked?


----------



## Yojevol

Great idea. I'd have to use a wide kerf blade for mine:-


----------



## Farm Labourer

Box is lined with pig skin - suede side showing. It was made for wifey.


----------



## Woodmatt

My latest project,Mahogany from an old wardrobe and Oak left over from some door linings


----------



## Stigmorgan

No pics but today I made a friend, a fellow member invited me over to get some pointers on the lathe, a good time was had, my skill level has gone from 0 to at least a 1, we spent more time chatting and admiring the grain pattern in the piece of cherry I took with me than we did actually turning but I look forward to pics of the finished product.


----------



## Stigmorgan

So today I maden2 more jigsaw puzzles , just playing around practicing on the lathe with a very very dry piece of beech, thought I'd try a simple little flower pot, first one I got distracted and got a catch, the 2nd one had a little knot in it that decided it didn't want to be cut and caused a blow out, as I've said I was only practicing so not overly disappointed especially as I had the walls on both pieces pretty even.



I have my new friend to thank for reshaping and sharpening my bowl gouge on Thursday, now there's no horrid point on the wings to keep catching I'm finding it much easier to control the cuts.


----------



## WoodchipWilbur

For me... <Sanity warning: I am not any sort of skilled turner. Those who know may shoot me down in flames...>

I would be reluctant to "finish" the walls of that pot to the extent that you have before doing the heavy lifting of removal of all the material from the centre. Certainly, I'd work my way in from the outer rim but I would tend to make a very thick flowerpot first and then do your much finer work in a second pass.
But, as above, I don't *know *that's better. Those who know may tell me that this is the right way to do it because it avoids problems of thin walls distorting as timber is removed, but to my mind, trying to shift a lot of wood, right beside a very thin jigsaw-in-kit-form is asking for trouble.


----------



## martin.pearson

WoodchipWilbur said:


> For me... <Sanity warning: I am not any sort of skilled turner. Those who know may shoot me down in flames...>
> 
> I would be reluctant to "finish" the walls of that pot to the extent that you have before doing the heavy lifting of removal of all the material from the centre. Certainly, I'd work my way in from the outer rim but I would tend to make a very thick flowerpot first and then do your much finer work in a second pass.
> But, as above, I don't *know *that's better. Those who know may tell me that this is the right way to do it because it avoids problems of thin walls distorting as timber is removed, but to my mind, trying to shift a lot of wood, right beside a very thin jigsaw-in-kit-form is asking for trouble.



+1 on what you have said although I am no turner either so if this is completely the wrong way to do it at least you are not alone lol, I started to learn a couple of years ago but didn't really keep at it for a couple of reasons, first one of my legs doesn't work very well so shifting weight is difficult & second I have arthritis in my hands & found that I couldn't work for very long.


----------



## Essex Barn Workshop

Today i 'made' a stall at an table sale for the RNLI






Note the coat rack with shelves and key hook display at the back. The table top and the vertical coffee table top are both sequoia, the cutting blocks are oak. The tensegrity floating table is what I put my Square card reader on, and is just to get people talking (but I'd sell it if someone wanted it!). The other two coffee tables are walnut and oak, the charcuterie boards to the left, 2 are beech and 1 is ash. The tea light holders are from off-cuts of oak.
4 hours including set up and take down. No more than 20 browsers all day and 1 sale (a £35 cutting board!)


----------



## Droogs

Nice work there, pity about only one sale though. i would have thought the radiator covers would have sold


----------



## thetyreman

I've been making my first commission box, it is for a vintage neumann M49 microphone so should fit perfectly, it's going to be sent to the USA next week, it features brusso jb101 stop hinges, and is lined with velvet using custards method in this thread: How to Line Boxes & Drawers

the leather is all real and the catches are from prokraft, it's loosely based on the original box from the 1950s, the wood is pine to keep the weight down and it was all hand cut dovetails.


----------



## Stigmorgan

WoodchipWilbur said:


> For me... <Sanity warning: I am not any sort of skilled turner. Those who know may shoot me down in flames...>
> 
> I would be reluctant to "finish" the walls of that pot to the extent that you have before doing the heavy lifting of removal of all the material from the centre. Certainly, I'd work my way in from the outer rim but I would tend to make a very thick flowerpot first and then do your much finer work in a second pass.
> But, as above, I don't *know *that's better. Those who know may tell me that this is the right way to do it because it avoids problems of thin walls distorting as timber is removed, but to my mind, trying to shift a lot of wood, right beside a very thin jigsaw-in-kit-form is asking for trouble.


Pots and bowls are usually shaped and finished on the outside then turned around and hollowed out, the only difference between that and my work is that I don't have a chuck so do it all on a faceplate from a single orientation.


----------



## Garno

Photo's make this look white whereas it really looks like a white marble.

White Marble Acrylic 
Chrome
Sanded to 800 wet and dry
Micro pads wet and dry full range to 3000
C10
3hrs 25 minutes


----------



## D_W

Lovely, garno - reminds me of a letter opener that my prothonotary grandfather had. Back then, getting and opening correspondence was a big thing, and the tools that you used weren't just throwaway junk - even for letter opening.


----------



## NickVanBeest

Busy making a router sled, but ran out of time, and also need to rethink the cradle. Only have a 40mm clearance, and can only carve to 35mm... so need to fabricate something that I can raise and lower as needed. Cross bars have a 65mm clearance.


----------



## D_W

Kitchen knife, just cut, ground and hardened from 01 bar stock. 







Cocobolo handle, very thin. Not as enjoyable as making chisels. Not a cannon, either!


----------



## Orraloon

Essex Barn Workshop said:


> Today i 'made' a stall at an table sale for the RNLI
> 
> View attachment 120836
> 
> 
> Note the coat rack with shelves and key hook display at the back. The table top and the vertical coffee table top are both sequoia, the cutting blocks are oak. The tensegrity floating table is what I put my Square card reader on, and is just to get people talking (but I'd sell it if someone wanted it!). The other two coffee tables are walnut and oak, the charcuterie boards to the left, 2 are beech and 1 is ash. The tea light holders are from off-cuts of oak.
> 4 hours including set up and take down. No more than 20 browsers all day and 1 sale (a £35 cutting board!)


Pity about the poor sales but good on you supporting such a worthy cause.
Where I grew up in NE Scotland they had a talking mynah bird raised a lot of money for the lifeboat. Cage was set up next to the collection box out in the street and the bird just talked people into putting money in the box. 
Regards
John


----------



## Stigmorgan

The bowl @Mick p and I started when I went down to visit him last week for some pointers on using the lathe has been finished by his skilled hand and I absolutely love it, 











I took a few bits of wood with me as a gift and among them was a piece of cherry, we were both definately in awe of its beauty as we worked on it, so much so that we didn't really get much done  
I cant wait to see what you do with the other bits I left with you @Mick p


----------



## martin.pearson

Is that the piece of Cherry you mentioned? I don't see it very often, the sawmill I buy my wood from hardly ever have any, guessing there isn't a huge amount growing in Scotland lol
One forum I am on has a lot of American members & they post a lot of items made from cherry & UK Cherry always seems to be quite pale in colour compared to theirs.


----------



## Mike.R

The start of a chest of drawers in French oak and burr Madrona.


----------



## Stigmorgan

martin.pearson said:


> Is that the piece of Cherry you mentioned? I don't see it very often, the sawmill I buy my wood from hardly ever have any, guessing there isn't a huge amount growing in Scotland lol
> One forum I am on has a lot of American members & they post a lot of items made from cherry & UK Cherry always seems to be quite pale in colour compared to theirs.


 it is yes, Japanese cherry, it starts out quite pale and darkens over time, the grain patterns are stunning, I did one a while ago completely by hand with nonpower tools, it seems to grow in random directions making it interesting/frustrating to work with.


----------



## Stigmorgan

So I thought my very first turning was a failure as it broke off the lathe before I could sand and finish it and it had a couple of catch marks on the base but out of boredom I hand sanded it and put a coat of clear bees wax on it and it actually looks pretty good (to me at least) it's from a pallet block that was approximately 200x100x100mm, the stem is 8mm thick and the cup wall is about 1mm most of the way down. Not 100% sure on the wood species but it looks like it could be Iroko


----------



## Watchthebirdie

Outer pieces are of oak, the centre and handle are old pine.
Finished off with mahogany tinted oil.
(Idea from Wilker Do on YouTube)


----------



## Cabinetman

Hi and welcome WTB, nicely done, my thoughts are that if it’s a mallet for woodwork the proportions are a little off, heads a bit long and the handle's a bit on the light side? 
Anyway, let’s hear a bit more about you and your work pls. Ian


----------



## Garno

Customer received order and is very happy


----------



## martin.pearson

*Customer received order and is very happy*

That's the most important bit, do you make the wooden boxes as well? I have enough problems trying to sell pens never mind the wooden boxes to go with them lol


----------



## Watchthebirdie

Cabinetman said:


> Hi and welcome WTB, nicely done, my thoughts are that if it’s a mallet for woodwork the proportions are a little off, heads a bit long and the handle's a bit on the light side?
> Anyway, let’s hear a bit more about you and your work pls. Ian


You’re probably right on both counts Ian
I’m just starting on picking up my love of working with wood, now that I’ve retired... again! (30yrs in the fire service and 20yrs as a professional photographer). I have a few tools that I wanted to get to know better before trying to make anything of complexity!
I have a table saw (and made a trolley for it), and have watched many videos and have made an accurate cross cut sled. I have fitted out my garage with a solid workbench and bench top drill press, wood vice, lights and have a heap of sawn oak donated by a friend who relocated to wales and wasn’t going to take with him!
I started out carving figurines made from an old coffee table made of ply during my off days as a fireman. Roughly cut to the shape I wanted and glued together and then carved and sanded to finish.
I followed Walker Do’s vids on how to put these mallets together. (More as an exercise rather than for utilisation)!
I consider myself an all round DIYer, having converted a loft to bedroom and shower & toilet room. Frame work, plaster-boarding and plastering, electrical wiring and plumbing!
I would like to further my enjoyment!


----------



## Garno

martin.pearson said:


> *Customer received order and is very happy*
> 
> That's the most important bit, do you make the wooden boxes as well? I have enough problems trying to sell pens never mind the wooden boxes to go with them lol



The boxes are not usually included with an order so at the quoting stage I give 2 prices, First is with the boxes then after a day or so I give the price without the boxes as it justifies a price drop without lowering the value of a pen. I buy the boxes to order.


----------



## martin.pearson

Garno said:


> The boxes are not usually included with an order so at the quoting stage I give 2 prices, First is with the boxes then after a day or so I give the price without the boxes as it justifies a price drop without lowering the value of a pen. I buy the boxes to order.



I thought you might be making the boxes, I have seen a couple of different style wooden box but not ones like those, I have just given people all the prices at the same time, Pen in velvet pouch, pen in plastic box & pen in velvet presentation case, giving them a price is about as far as I get lol, do you find your way of sending the quotes out at different times works better?


----------



## Watchthebirdie

Watchthebirdie said:


> You’re probably right on both counts Ian
> I’m just starting on picking up my love of working with wood, now that I’ve retired... again! (30yrs in the fire service and 20yrs as a professional photographer). I have a few tools that I wanted to get to know better before trying to make anything of complexity!
> I have a table saw (and made a trolley for it), and have watched many videos and have made an accurate cross cut sled. I have fitted out my garage with a solid workbench and bench top drill press, wood vice, lights and have a heap of sawn oak donated by a friend who relocated to wales and wasn’t going to take with him!
> I started out carving figurines made from an old coffee table made of ply during my off days as a fireman. Roughly cut to the shape I wanted and glued together and then carved and sanded to finish.
> I followed Walker Do’s vids on how to put these mallets together. (More as an exercise rather than for utilisation)!
> I consider myself an all round DIYer, having converted a loft to bedroom and shower & toilet room. Frame work, plaster-boarding and plastering, electrical wiring and plumbing!
> I would like to further my enjoyment!


I tried to upload a couple of photos to show what I've done and it wouldn't let me!


----------



## Garno

martin.pearson said:


> I thought you might be making the boxes, I have seen a couple of different style wooden box but not ones like those, I have just given people all the prices at the same time, Pen in velvet pouch, pen in plastic box & pen in velvet presentation case, giving them a price is about as far as I get lol, do you find your way of sending the quotes out at different times works better?



Depends really on your price entry point, too cheap and you cheapen it even more by offering to reduce the cost for boxes. I have only been doing pens for 2 minutes so am no expert on the selling prices but if you want to messages me I will return it with my phone number and we can have a chat as this is not the right place to be talking about selling prices and profit v losses,


----------



## Droogs

you need a minimum number of posts to post pics and message people. Think it's 3, 5 or 10


----------



## cowtown_eric

8 in maple, 10 in BALSA wood!


----------



## Droogs

A bit narrow for cricket.
I wouldn't have though Balsa would be particularly nice to turn, bit like punkey spongey waterlogged poplar


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Ahhhh ............ so they have burglars in Canada as well!


----------



## Valhalla

Nice rounders bat


----------



## nickds1

Just found a photo of one of our "Chartwell" benches in situ... at Chartwell!

Note that the National Trust don't generally like oiling the benches we made for them - they get many 1000s of visitors a year, some of whom are definitely gravitationally challenged! Some gardens put them under cover in the winter, some don't, so the life of these very expensive hand-made benches is often harder and shorter than it could be...

The complex design and construction of the back of these benches has been problematic for us, and some have needed remedial work after time in the field. Lessons learned and all that.


----------



## TRITON

Thats a lovely bench nick, i particularly like the back design, though can see thats a lot of laying out to be done there.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Absolutely gorgeous bench, a real shame they don't like them being treated/protected.


----------



## REN

danish said:


> I just finishen this small oak and cotton string bench:
> 
> View attachment 119967
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 119968
> 
> 
> super fun project - 20% time spent on wood work and 80% on weaving


I like this, very neat…good weaving


----------



## REN

Little project to prop up the iPad. Using off cut cherry left over. Nice to start and finish a job in one day,


----------



## Fitzroy

Collected and stickered some local larch. Mainly to do the facias and soffits on the new outhouse roof, but also aiming to dry some to use to make the door.


----------



## Hsmith192

I don’t normally do this but I made a pillar drill table with some clamps.


----------



## cowtown_eric

it was a b***h to turn with conventional lathe tools. bits of wood would tear out, lay across the edge, and the balsa was so soft, it wouldn;t cut it.

Ended up using a template and a router to rough n shape then using varieties of auto-body rasps and Ariou style rasps to tune it to size. Steady rest will possible, was not applicable, as any vibration would just cause the bearings to severly indent the wood (It did marginally for the maple ones I turned)

Video at


Balsa sands ever so easily so it was easy to smooth. 

I found an on-off foot switch (for lathe)greatly aided effeciency.You lift your foot, holding router in one hand, and reaching for calipers with the other.

Eric in the colonies!


----------



## kinverkid

I was having a bit of a clear-out under the lathe and found a worm riddled 150mm x 50mm blank of maple. Thought I might give it a turn.


----------



## MarkAW

Toddler swing from leftover timber. Had a go at splicing too. Frame sized for room to grow


----------



## Phil Pascoe

kinverkid said:


> I was having a bit of a clear-out under the lathe and found a worm riddled 150mm x 50mm blank of maple. Thought I might give it a turn.
> View attachment 121293
> View attachment 121294


Couldn't you afford a sieve?


----------



## Jacob

Got given a scruffy old cupboard, bottom doors missing, glass missing, heavily painted,









Made a pair of doors which fitted OK but thought I'd better strip it first









Stripping turned into mega job - paint came off easily with hot air but varnish underneath was like thick toffee so hunted down some serious stripper, Nitromors type












Turned out to be very nice pitch pine and worth the effort. Didn't have any for the doors so will paint them. Put new (old) glass in the top doors - reclaimed horticultural from an old conservatory - has a nice ripple like old cylinder glass. Puttied on the inside - much quicker than knocking up beading, and putty is nice and solid, no rattling etc
Linseed oil all over.






It was a school cupboard and full of pin holes and drawing pin points etc so will have to pick out paint bits and fill with wax.
I was really pleased with it as it was touch and go for firewood at the start.
A buggler fitting hinges into hinge pockets which had been worked over lots of times and used up the last of my Baldwin cast iron - which are world's best ever hinges.


----------



## Cabinetman

Jacob said:


> Got given a scruffy old cupboard, bottom doors missing, glass missing, heavily painted,
> 
> View attachment 121323
> View attachment 121324
> 
> 
> Made a pair of doors which fitted OK but thought I'd better strip it first
> 
> View attachment 121325
> View attachment 121326
> 
> 
> Stripping turned into mega job - paint came off easily with hot air but varnish underneath was like thick toffee so hunted down some serious stripper, Nitromors type
> 
> View attachment 121327
> View attachment 121328
> View attachment 121329
> 
> 
> Turned out to be very nice pitch pine and worth the effort. Didn't have any for the doors so will paint them. Put new glass in the top doors. Linseed oil all over.
> 
> View attachment 121330
> 
> 
> It was a school cupboard and full of pin holes and drawing pin points etc so will have to pick out paint bits and fill with wax.
> I was really pleased with it as it was touch and go for firewood at the start.
> A pipper fitting hinges into hinge pockets which had been worked over lots of times and used up the last of my Baldwin cast iron - which are world's best ever hinges.


Hi Jacob, nice cabinet, that’s beautiful pitch pine, Baldwin cast iron hinges, is that the same Baldwin from the US that did brass foundry, really and I mean really nice bress castings, candle sticks, locks, hinges, etc? 
I also need some 3 and 4”cast iron hinges for a job soon what are the chances of getting any pls? Ian


----------



## Orraloon

MarkAW said:


> View attachment 121308
> 
> Toddler swing from leftover timber. Had a go at splicing too. Frame sized for room to grow


Sure the kid will love it.
Now to cast my sailor's eye on those splices. Not bad at all for a first go and you got the thimble eyes reasonably tight too. They most definitely will never pull out but you only need 4 tucks per splice. Next time you can save a bit of work.
Regards
John


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Yes, my thoughts as well. They are twice as long as they need be.


----------



## Jacob

Cabinetman said:


> Hi Jacob, nice cabinet, that’s beautiful pitch pine, Baldwin cast iron hinges, is that the same Baldwin from the US that did brass foundry, really and I mean really nice bress castings, candle sticks, locks, hinges, etc?
> I also need some 3 and 4”cast iron hinges for a job soon what are the chances of getting any pls? Ian


You can get them on Ebay but expensive.
The main thing is to watch out for scrap joinery/furniture. The hinges last forever and are well worth saving. Just drop them in a bucket of caustic and when dry and cleaned off - apply linseed oil.








The Baldwin Hinge - The Grand Victorian Door Company


Baldwin hinges are found on most Victorian front doors. Here's a history of the Baldwin hinge and the Stourport Foundry near Birmingham.




grandvictorian.co.uk


----------



## Garno

Really nice restoration @Jacob looking forward to see it fully finished.


----------



## Jacob

Garno said:


> Really nice restoration @Jacob looking forward to see it fully finished.


Thanks. Paint stripping described here Paint stripping
I'll paint the new doors, I've got a tin of this Brick Red
If I come by some matching pitch-pine I could make another pair but somehow think I won't get around to it!


----------



## mikej460

Jacob said:


> Thanks. Paint stripping described here Paint stripping
> I'll paint the new doors, I've got a tin of this Brick Red
> If I come by some matching pitch-pine I could make another pair but somehow think I won't get around to it!


Now that's more price-appealing so it will be interesting to see the results Jacob


----------



## paulm

There's a few small birch burrs sitting on the bench in the workshop, a couple of spare hours took care of one of them at least.

Another wee kuksa / whisky noggin for sipping your favourite beverage, ideally around a campfire


----------



## Mike.R

Progress on the chest of drawers. This piece is for an architect friend of mine who has done some work for me. I didn't expect him to have so much input but once an architect gets his pencil out, there's no stopping him. 

Some drawer fronts have a bit of polish on them, some are still bare and a couple are yet to be veneered.


----------



## WoodchipWilbur

Orraloon said:


> Sure the kid will love it.
> Now to cast my sailor's eye on those splices. Not bad at all for a first go and you got the thimble eyes reasonably tight too. They most definitely will never pull out but you only need 4 tucks per splice. Next time you can save a bit of work.
> Regards
> John


Orraloon says "four tucks" - I was alway told "three tucks" - but then one for a taper. 

I would be tempted though, while I did the bottom splice more or less as you've done it (fewer tucks!) but I'd make the top one, not as a splice, but by tucking the whole rope back under each of the strands in turn. It isn't as neat - possibly not so strong (though plenty strong enough) but it does mean that as the needs change, so the length of the swing rope can be adjusted.


----------



## Orraloon

3 tucks was for natural fiber rope but as synthetic is a bit slippery(less friction) it required 4 as a minimum. 
Regards
John


----------



## MarkAW

Yep it's synthetic rope. I read somewhere 5 tucks, but 7 for moorings. I don't think the frame would support a boat


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Why not? Everything I ever did for my children needed to be strong enough to support a boat.


----------



## martin.pearson

Not the last thing that I made but my son has just sent me a picture of my youngest Grandchild who has now managed to climb to the top of the Pikler triangle I made for him.


----------



## Garno

Pen for my pal for Christmas

Rollerball Twist

Spalted Oak

Chrome

CA, Burnishing Cream and Sanding Sealer

4.5hrs to Make


----------



## Mick p

Stigmorgan said:


> So I thought my very first turning was a failure as it broke off the lathe before I could sand and finish it and it had a couple of catch marks on the base but out of boredom I hand sanded it and put a coat of clear bees wax on it and it actually looks pretty good (to me at least) it's from a pallet block that was approximately 200x100x100mm, the stem is 8mm thick and the cup wall is about 1mm most of the way down. Not 100% sure on the wood species but it looks like it could be Iroko
> View attachment 121130
> View attachment 121131


Hi Stig that looks fabulous I love the shape I told you it will improve very well done. This is the bit of spalted beech you left with me


----------



## julianf

similar to the one i posted last week.


note: the marks on the silver boxes were intentionally left in place. the photos are being posted elsewhere (as in places where I'm trying to sell) and i wanted to make the distinction between the "straight from the machine" parts, and ones that I've spent time on (the two options are priced accordingly)

ultimately, ill set up for powder coat and then that will, i suspect, be that.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Mick p said:


> Hi Stig that looks fabulous I love the shape I told you it will improve very well done. This is the bit of spalted beech you left with me


 Thanks Mick, I'm really enjoying myself with it.
That platter looks awesome , it was silver birch though , I've got a couple of small trunk sections left but I fear they have gone too far so may look into stabilising with resin to stop chunks being torn out So will have a wait a while longer.
Hopefully I'll have my chuck from yandles in the next week or so, just waiting for some of the abranet I ordered to come back into stock, then I only have to sort out jigs for the grinder and I'm all set get turning properly. 
I started a piece today but I'm not sure what the wood is.




Your browser is not able to display this video.


----------



## cisamcgu

Light pull, in Laburnum (I think).

First every attempt at turning anything - made in my wood turning lesson.


----------



## kinverkid

cisamcgu said:


> Light pull, in Laburnum (I think).
> 
> First every attempt at turning anything - made in my wood turning lesson.


Looks like laburnum to me too. Would be interesting to compare it with this photo in a years time to see if it's turned a nice dark chocolate brown.


----------



## D_W

A bunch of kitchen knives... a small bunch. Two XHP and one in O1 (XHP is probably the steel sold as PM-V11 based on an X-ray fluorescence done by someone on a blue forum in the US...not blue like blue law, but blue background). 

XHP is semi-stainless, but the virtue for knives is also that it stays very straight when heat treated compared to O1, and especially compared to something like 26c3 (very similar to japanese white). 26c3 would make a superior knife to any of them, but it is devoid of stainless properties. XHP makes a decent knife, but lacks toughness and the fine edge is not quite as uniform as the carbon steels (but this is stainless steels in general). The same issue with it exists as does with plane irons - it's got double the abrasion resistance of something like 01 or 26c3, but you have to manage to keep the edge undamaged to make use of it. 

...that said, the fact that it's 2/3rds of the way to stainless means that I can sneak the black micarta handled knife into the kitchen without getting caught. 

After faffing with a couple of handles, I actually like the straight one the best - it's like a reverse chisel handle with narrow taper on the index finger and then fatter toward the back of the handle. 

All three of these are relatively hard for a kitchen knife and ground thin .You can't really get commercial knives like this without paying a lot as these (and all expensive high hardness thin knives) will not tolerate prying with the tip by an inexperienced user. These won't give up if they hit bones in meat, but if someone tries to use the tip of one to break ice or open a metal can lid, maybe not such great outcomes. 

They have been finished further since this picture to a gray scotchbrite surface finish and all will hang a hair. Cutting vegetables, meat or bread with them is a sensory experience. The edges are sharpened beyond what you'd get with a 10k grit waterstone, but they're also buffed slightly to strengthen what's left of the apex (not so much, though -they will still catch a hanging hair and sever it cleanly). 

dark brown handle is cocobolo (I think I posted it already, and am too lazy to look above - that's the O1 knife). The blank handle is paper micarta (sands and feels like a resin bowling ball - practical I guess - not inspiring!!), and the lighter brown handle is louro preto. I know a lot about what makes a comfortable tool handle, but diddley nothing about what makes a nice knife handle. 

XHP kitchen knives are expensive, but the make-cost of these including belts and gas is about $50 each (about $30 for the O1 knife). I'm keeping the top two and the bottom one is going to someone who I know who likes nice things (when I make a bunch of things, then some end up being gifts). 

Bottom picture gives an idea of the grind. Everything is done freehand and by eye. The subtlety of differences but guarantee that you won't find limitations imposed by fixturing things while making them is a real draw for me.


----------



## Illy

Very nice work. I've used 01 to date because I can harden in my little Devil Forge and temper in the kitchen oven - works fine but over time the tarnish detracts from the look. Stainless Steel treatment looks way beyond me in terms of heat treatment - is the XHP you reference any easier ?


----------



## D_W

XHP has a lot of chromium (13%) and would be stainless if it was lower carbon, but a lot of the chromium gets bound in the carbon (I think the carbon is around 1.65%). 

The key for us using forges is that if you get it really hot really quickly and just quench it (I quench it front end in oil and then back end between aluminum plates, and then throw it in the freezer so it converts as much austenite as possible). So, like if you would go nonmagnetic plus another color hotter and then quench O1, you'd go at least a full color brighter with XHP (it doesn't mind being heated to something like 1900F, and I think the heat in a controlled environment is 1850-2000 depending on what you want out of it). 

Long story short, it comes up just shy of O1 out of the quench (you can't quite file it, but you can feel that it's closer) and then when you temper it, it tempers back a little more slowly, so a good heat, good complete cool and temper around 400F will give you about 60/61. 

If it's left in the open atmosphere for two long, the chromium moves around and nothing good happens, so it's very different than thermally cycling a plain steel. 

Since a lot of the chromium is out of the matrix, it will take light staining and if you leave drops of rust on it, it'll get very light rust, but it doesn't pit deep and stain too easily. 

What I mentioned above isn't on any schedule, but I've had coupons of O1 and 26c3 tested and I can match commercial quality on the former and better it on the latter with subcritical quenches. I don't think my XHP will match a good commercial cycle, but we'll see - it turns out fine and makes a decent plane iron that lasts with a V11 iron and suffers pretty much the same ills (the grain is a little less fine and fine edge holding a little less good than a good fine non-stainless). 

I haven't tried many other stainless steels and the above is only from experimenting. I expected that I'd buy a sheet of it, cut some things (plane irons at the time) and send them off for heat treat, but before doing it, I wanted to just heat it up into the quenching temperature range and see what happens. I've also tried AEB-L, and I don't think it has a surplus of anything in it to waste, and most importantly, it's not PM like XHP is so you can't really soak it in the open environment to dissolve chromium (we're relying on the mill to keep the pre-quench structure good in PMs). 

So, summarizing what's in maybe too many words - it's tolerant of things that I don't see in some lower carbon stainless steels in the open environment, but it's very expensive ($300 for a 6x36 sheet) and you need a lot of heat and fast - if the heat takes a while, it won't turn out good. I use a mapp torch in a piece of large exhaust pipe (not kidding) with refractory blanket lining it so that there's no outlet for heat other than the front. My propane forge (a large double burner stainless forge) will make a lot of heat, but the point heat isn't high enough for me to get good results. That may be different for you if you block yours off and get it really hot before starting a heat. 

(AEB-L will work fine and is super cheap, I just can't get hardnesses that subjectively feel above 60 - but you can make a better knife with AEB-L than you'll get in a zwilling or wusthof in X15crMOV0.5 or whatever it is that they use that's not very high carbon.


----------



## Illy

D_W said:


> XHP has a lot of chromium (13%) and would be stainless if it was lower carbon, but a lot of the chromium gets bound in the carbon (I think the carbon is around 1.65%).
> 
> The key for us using forges is that if you get it really hot really quickly and just quench it (I quench it front end in oil and then back end between aluminum plates, and then throw it in the freezer so it converts as much austenite as possible). So, like if you would go nonmagnetic plus another color hotter and then quench O1, you'd go at least a full color brighter with XHP (it doesn't mind being heated to something like 1900F, and I think the heat in a controlled environment is 1850-2000 depending on what you want out of it).
> 
> Long story short, it comes up just shy of O1 out of the quench (you can't quite file it, but you can feel that it's closer) and then when you temper it, it tempers back a little more slowly, so a good heat, good complete cool and temper around 400F will give you about 60/61.
> 
> If it's left in the open atmosphere for two long, the chromium moves around and nothing good happens, so it's very different than thermally cycling a plain steel.
> 
> Since a lot of the chromium is out of the matrix, it will take light staining and if you leave drops of rust on it, it'll get very light rust, but it doesn't pit deep and stain too easily.
> 
> What I mentioned above isn't on any schedule, but I've had coupons of O1 and 26c3 tested and I can match commercial quality on the former and better it on the latter with subcritical quenches. I don't think my XHP will match a good commercial cycle, but we'll see - it turns out fine and makes a decent plane iron that lasts with a V11 iron and suffers pretty much the same ills (the grain is a little less fine and fine edge holding a little less good than a good fine non-stainless).
> 
> I haven't tried many other stainless steels and the above is only from experimenting. I expected that I'd buy a sheet of it, cut some things (plane irons at the time) and send them off for heat treat, but before doing it, I wanted to just heat it up into the quenching temperature range and see what happens. I've also tried AEB-L, and I don't think it has a surplus of anything in it to waste, and most importantly, it's not PM like XHP is so you can't really soak it in the open environment to dissolve chromium (we're relying on the mill to keep the pre-quench structure good in PMs).
> 
> So, summarizing what's in maybe too many words - it's tolerant of things that I don't see in some lower carbon stainless steels in the open environment, but it's very expensive ($300 for a 6x36 sheet) and you need a lot of heat and fast - if the heat takes a while, it won't turn out good. I use a mapp torch in a piece of large exhaust pipe (not kidding) with refractory blanket lining it so that there's no outlet for heat other than the front. My propane forge (a large double burner stainless forge) will make a lot of heat, but the point heat isn't high enough for me to get good results. That may be different for you if you block yours off and get it really hot before starting a heat.
> 
> (AEB-L will work fine and is super cheap, I just can't get hardnesses that subjectively feel above 60 - but you can make a better knife with AEB-L than you'll get in a zwilling or wusthof in X15crMOV0.5 or whatever it is that they use that's not very high carbon.


Thank you


----------



## Jameshow

D_W said:


> XHP has a lot of chromium (13%) and would be stainless if it was lower carbon, but a lot of the chromium gets bound in the carbon (I think the carbon is around 1.65%).
> 
> The key for us using forges is that if you get it really hot really quickly and just quench it (I quench it front end in oil and then back end between aluminum plates, and then throw it in the freezer so it converts as much austenite as possible). So, like if you would go nonmagnetic plus another color hotter and then quench O1, you'd go at least a full color brighter with XHP (it doesn't mind being heated to something like 1900F, and I think the heat in a controlled environment is 1850-2000 depending on what you want out of it).
> 
> Long story short, it comes up just shy of O1 out of the quench (you can't quite file it, but you can feel that it's closer) and then when you temper it, it tempers back a little more slowly, so a good heat, good complete cool and temper around 400F will give you about 60/61.
> 
> If it's left in the open atmosphere for two long, the chromium moves around and nothing good happens, so it's very different than thermally cycling a plain steel.
> 
> Since a lot of the chromium is out of the matrix, it will take light staining and if you leave drops of rust on it, it'll get very light rust, but it doesn't pit deep and stain too easily.
> 
> What I mentioned above isn't on any schedule, but I've had coupons of O1 and 26c3 tested and I can match commercial quality on the former and better it on the latter with subcritical quenches. I don't think my XHP will match a good commercial cycle, but we'll see - it turns out fine and makes a decent plane iron that lasts with a V11 iron and suffers pretty much the same ills (the grain is a little less fine and fine edge holding a little less good than a good fine non-stainless).
> 
> I haven't tried many other stainless steels and the above is only from experimenting. I expected that I'd buy a sheet of it, cut some things (plane irons at the time) and send them off for heat treat, but before doing it, I wanted to just heat it up into the quenching temperature range and see what happens. I've also tried AEB-L, and I don't think it has a surplus of anything in it to waste, and most importantly, it's not PM like XHP is so you can't really soak it in the open environment to dissolve chromium (we're relying on the mill to keep the pre-quench structure good in PMs).
> 
> So, summarizing what's in maybe too many words - it's tolerant of things that I don't see in some lower carbon stainless steels in the open environment, but it's very expensive ($300 for a 6x36 sheet) and you need a lot of heat and fast - if the heat takes a while, it won't turn out good. I use a mapp torch in a piece of large exhaust pipe (not kidding) with refractory blanket lining it so that there's no outlet for heat other than the front. My propane forge (a large double burner stainless forge) will make a lot of heat, but the point heat isn't high enough for me to get good results. That may be different for you if you block yours off and get it really hot before starting a heat.
> 
> (AEB-L will work fine and is super cheap, I just can't get hardnesses that subjectively feel above 60 - but you can make a better knife with AEB-L than you'll get in a zwilling or wusthof in X15crMOV0.5 or whatever it is that they use that's not very high carbon.








Uddeholm AEB-L – Barmond (Special Steels) Limited


Stainless knife steel from Uddeholm This stainless grade – “the edge steel” – was originally developed for the production of razor blades, but is also used for scalpel blades and knives. High sharpness, wear resistance and corrosion resistance. This product is sold by length. Please specify the...




www.barmondsheffield.com





Source here...


----------



## D_W

Yes, for summary - why I would compare those two:
- AEB-L is a lower carbon but very fine grained (tough) stainless steel that's also a bit low on the chromium side - it's had long use in razor blades and the grain size is uncanny for a stainless - smaller than a lot of carbon steels.
-XHP, which apparently duplicates V11 based on analysis other folks have done is not nearly as small in particle size, but it's very high in carbon (which gives someone playing in the open atmosphere a little to spare when heating to a high temperature), and the quality of a powder metal means that from the very beginning, each little couple-of-micron particles is like a separate full composition ingot. As the steel is normalized, carbides form and the actual carbide size increases past the original particle size, but the starting point offers a cheat in that a home-shop dude doesn't have to normalize the steel to get the chromium in solution - I'm guessing that doing so may actually cause carbide size to increase (I've planed with plane irons a few times and taken a picture of the carbides - which look like they're around 2-5 or 7 microns (they're not all identical) in micrographs of commercially treated steel vs. those in my samples - that are no larger and possibly slightly smaller).

What's missing if you don't normalize the steel -I don't really know if the starting structure is good, but it may turn out better for reasons other than carbide size.

For a non-PM steel with big carbides, you can't just cheat like this because those big carbides need to be dissolved into solution.

I don't have a comparison for XHP, but for D2, which is not enormously different (just less carbon and less chromium), the ingot version looks like this:


https://i1.wp.com/knifesteelnerds.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1000X-D2.jpg?w=750&ssl=1



The PM version looks like this:


https://i2.wp.com/knifesteelnerds.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/1000X-CPM-D2-2.jpg?w=750&ssl=1



Note the drastic difference in particle uniformity, which means when bits break off of the edge, they come off very uniformly on the latter, but not so much on the former. For scale, the larger groups of carbides are over a thousandth of an inch and they'll take some peripheral metal. In the powder metal version, they're all a small fraction of a thousandth of an inch (25 microns or so is a thousandth and the 20 micron scale is at the bottom of the picture). 

If you heated the ingot D2 to 1900 degrees in the open atmosphere and left it there for half an hour, I don't think anything good would come out of it - the carbon and chromium would probably both migrate.

When you're working with this kind of stuff, you just go the crude way - get some bars, look at the schedule, cheat, see what happens. If it's no good and nothing reasonable makes it good, then stick to the stuff that works well.

I'd far rather have a 62 hardness AEB-L knife than XHP, but I can't heat treat it to that hardness, so the knives are XHP. AEB-L costs something like 1/5th or 1/6th as much, has a far finer grain and almost as much wear resistance. And is probably slightly closer to being a true stainless.


----------



## D_W

(my apologies to anyone who finds the steel discussion confusing - in wood terms, it's sort of like deciding you want to make something like an oil hardened spoon and then figuring out the right wood and then the process to oil harden/temper the wood vs. the idea of just buying some wood and sending it to some place to have it vacuum infused with resin). 

Translation, it's a lot less complicated than it sounds - it's more like, what works well to make it hot, make it cold, and then warm it a little. And then how hot, and how warm (cold should always be cold for woodworking stuff).


----------



## NickVanBeest

Made a desk from leftover pine for a friend...





Some of the photos during construction:


----------



## martin.pearson

Today at 20:06
*Made a desk from leftover pine for a friend...*

Looks good to me, so whats with the picture with the sloping top lol, there a story behind that because the top is clearly level lol


----------



## NickVanBeest

martin.pearson said:


> Looks good to me, so whats with the picture with the sloping top lol, there a story behind that because the top is clearly level lol



LOL, just me battling with clamps

This was glued up before I bought some large second hand Bessy clamps from Richard


----------



## baldkev

A belt holder ( karate ) for my sons 9th birthday
Have ordered some black bands to secure the belts....
I might get a dremel so i can engrave it


----------



## Britman

Not fine woodworking by any stretch of the imagination. But its the first time I've ever converted a van. Mistake, many mistakes were made


----------



## baldkev

Britman said:


> its the first time I've ever converted a van. Mistake, many mistakes were made


Well done  where are you going first??


----------



## Britman

baldkev said:


> Well done  where are you going first??


Think I'll head to Wales and Anglesey. Only a couple of hours away. Haven't been to the coast for what feels like years.


----------



## Jonm

Britman said:


> Not fine woodworking by any stretch of the imagination. But its the first time I've ever converted a van. Mistake, many mistakes were made


looks good, perhap you could post some more pictures. What sort of Van is it.


----------



## Jameshow

Britman said:


> View attachment 121564
> 
> 
> Not fine woodworking by any stretch of the imagination. But its the first time I've ever converted a van. Mistake, many mistakes were made


Nice job, what van is it? 

I like using ply rather than furniture board as when it gets marked it looks less scruffy. 

Cheers James


----------



## Britman

2016 Citroen Dispatch.
Just made with 18mm construction ply. I was going to use Birch but glad I didn't. Next time.


----------



## Britman




----------



## Seb Palmer

Some of my recent projects have been: a tool caddy, a la Patrick Sullivan; re-installing a vice on my workbench (haven’t bothered showing a pic of this!); new knobs and handles for some of my old planes.

All very basic and not ‘fine woodworking’. But fun and useful. Oh, and I also made my second bodhran-ish style ‘frame drum’.


----------



## Trainee neophyte

Britman said:


> View attachment 121568
> 
> 
> View attachment 121569
> 
> 
> View attachment 121570
> 
> 
> View attachment 121571
> 
> 
> View attachment 121572


Great job. Once you live in it for a bit you will know what you need to change in the next one. Where I live there is a little saying about houses: the first house you build, you sell; the second you rent; the third you live in. I think camper conversions may be similar.


----------



## clogs

T N,
so very true......also the same with boats.......
My very last narrow boat disapeared.....and it was the best I ever built.....
no theft insurance and never seen again.....
how does a 60ft narrow boat disapear......????


----------



## Jameshow

Britman said:


> View attachment 121568
> 
> 
> View attachment 121569
> 
> 
> View attachment 121570
> 
> 
> View attachment 121571
> 
> 
> View attachment 121572


That's the new shape one? Reliable?

Very nice! 

Cheers James


----------



## gregmcateer

clogs said:


> how does a 60ft narrow boat disapear......????



Depends how deep the water was. 
Sorry. Insensitive


----------



## Henniep

Britman said:


> View attachment 121564
> 
> 
> Not fine woodworking by any stretch of the imagination. But its the first time I've ever converted a van. Mistake, many mistakes were made





Britman said:


> View attachment 121564
> 
> 
> Not fine woodworking by any stretch of the imagination. But its the first time I've ever converted a van. Mistake, many mistakes were made


Hi Britman,
What van is it?
Converted a Ford Transit a couple of years ago - was a nice project. Sold it under duress when the new owner saw the finished product!


----------



## Britman

Jameshow said:


> That's the new shape one? Reliable?
> 
> Very nice!
> 
> Cheers James


I hope it's reliable, only had it a months.


----------



## Britman

Henniep said:


> Hi Britman,
> What van is it?
> Converted a Ford Transit a couple of years ago - was a nice project. Sold it under duress when the new owner saw the finished product!


Citroen Dispatch or Peugeot Expert or Toyota Proace


----------



## Krisskross

Britman said:


> Think I'll head to Wales and Anglesey. Only a couple of hours away. Haven't been to the coast for what feels like years.


Make sure you book in advance, went a few years ago and most places were booked


----------



## m.webb63

I'm just starting out woodworking and have made my first couple of bandsaw boxes. Not turned out too bad for first attempts. They're cut from a single piece of French Oak and finished with an oil stain.


----------



## Jameshow

Britman said:


> Citroen Dispatch or Peugeot Expert or Toyota Proace ☺


Used by the police round here so should be reliable!


----------



## jcassidy

Well I was going to make a new tote and handle for a #5 plane restoration from some lovely spalted beech I had stored away. Unfortunately, what I ended up making was a lot of worm-riddled firewood.


Which was quite annoying so I spent some time sharpening my saws, which is also quite annoying without a saw clamp. Which is what I made instead.


----------



## pulleyt

My partner has a significant birthday coming up so I thought I'd have a go at some wooden roses based on ideas from several YouTube channels. They needed a couple of bud vases as well. 

The vases are turned from a piece of wood I've had sitting around for many years (probably elm) and are fitted with test tube inserts - in case she prefers real roses that need watering 

The roses have stems cut from 12mm square lengths of Sapele and Walnut using a scroll saw and then sanded roundish. The whiter petals are shavings from a piece of construction softwood with the more orange petals made from pitch pine? shavings.


----------



## Britman

Krisskross said:


> Make sure you book in advance, went a few years ago and most places were booked


I don't use camp sites


pulleyt said:


> My partner has a significant birthday coming up so I thought I'd have a go at some wooden roses based on ideas from several YouTube channels. They needed a couple of bud vases as well.
> 
> The vases are turned from a piece of wood I've had sitting around for many years (probably elm) and are fitted with test tube inserts - in case she prefers real roses that need watering
> 
> The roses have stems cut from 12mm square lengths of Sapele and Walnut using a scroll saw and then sanded roundish. The whiter petals are shavings from a piece of construction softwood with the more orange petals made from pitch pine? shavings.
> 
> View attachment 121678


They are fantastic.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Now that I have a 4jaw chuck I threw a small piece of my recently acquired cherry tree the lathe to see what it wanted to be, im actually really pleased, so far it has been sanded up to 800 (I know many will say that's a waste of time and sandpaper but I don't have abrasive pastes so I have to use what I have) once I get some beeswax on it I'll turn it around, remove the tenon and put my logo on it. This one will be a gift to the guy that gave me the cherry wood.




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## baldkev

Stigmorgan said:


> I threw a small piece of my recently acquired cherry tree the lathe to see what it wanted to be



Thats cool  did you get lots of bits breaking away or did it start with those edges? I dont suppose you got a photo of the blank?


----------



## Stigmorgan

baldkev said:


> Thats cool  did you get lots of bits breaking away or did it start with those edges? I dont suppose you got a photo of the blank?


I forgot to take a pic of the piece on the lathe before turning but I've circled the piece in the picture, the piece was only joined by a tiny bit of wood so it broke in two, the other half is going on the lathe next.


----------



## Krisskross

This whirligig has been in progress (time permitting) for about 2 months now, I think I have ironed out the problems and made 3 types of propellor, this one worked best - 45 degree maltese cross - now to make the kids 



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## Phil Pascoe

Stigmorgan said:


> Now that I have a 4jaw chuck I threw a small piece of my recently acquired cherry tree the lathe to see what it wanted to be, im actually really pleased, so far it has been sanded up to 800 (I know many will say that's a waste of time and sandpaper but I don't have abrasive pastes so I have to use what I have) once I get some beeswax on it I'll turn it around, remove the tenon and put my logo on it. This one will be a gift to the guy that gave me the cherry wood.
> View attachment 121785




Pretty.. You'd do well to put a harder finish on it, though, beeswax alone will mark easily.


----------



## Cooper

I want to make some boxes from a bit of Yew "fire wood" and need to cut groves and rebates. I don't have a router or table saw and considered the saw Lidle has on offer this week. However I don't really have the space but I do have a load of scrapped timber including the frame of an oak dining table and an old 1/4" chisel. I decided to see if I could make a plough plane which could double up as a shoulder plane. I had a bit of trouble with the table of my drill coming out of square half way through making the holes for the guide rods rather stiff. I've ended up with rather tight interference joins which handily mean the fence can be tapped into place with some ply spacers setting the distance from the edge of the groove and at lest at this stage no need for clamping screws. I've tried it out and it works!!


----------



## Britman

pulleyt said:


> My partner has a significant birthday coming up so I thought I'd have a go at some wooden roses based on ideas from several YouTube channels. They needed a couple of bud vases as well.
> 
> The vases are turned from a piece of wood I've had sitting around for many years (probably elm) and are fitted with test tube inserts - in case she prefers real roses that need watering
> 
> The roses have stems cut from 12mm square lengths of Sapele and Walnut using a scroll saw and then sanded roundish. The whiter petals are shavings from a piece of construction softwood with the more orange petals made from pitch pine? shavings.
> 
> View attachment 121678


Have you got links to the YouTube videos?


----------



## pulleyt

There are quite a few results in YouTube if you search for Wood Roses but the two that I liked most were:

 

but I used hot glue as in 



For some of the shavings I held them over a steaming saucepan for a few seconds to make them a bit more pliable. Some shavings will split but most played nicely


----------



## Stigmorgan

Phil Pascoe said:


> Pretty.. You'd do well to put a harder finish on it, though, beeswax alone will mark easily.


Thanks Phil, it's all I have at the minute and having spent so much recently on the bench grinder, chuck and abranet abrasive mesh I'm flat broke for the foreseeable, sanding sealers, abrasive pastes and finishes are all that's on my Xmas list this year though so who knows.

This morning I worked turned off the tenon and applied 2 thin coats of the beeswax into the wood and then realised I'd forgotten to print my logo on the base, oh well. I applied the wax with kitchen towel and with the lathe running on its lowest gear so about 450rpm and it has buffed out to a very nice sheen I'm totally in love with the red colouration and with the contrast between sapwood and grain wood, ive also impressed myself at getting the walls and base to a pretty even 5mm all the way through.


----------



## Stigmorgan

So today I threw the other half of the piece of cherry on the lathe, in the first pic you can see the small spot where the two pieces were attached.







A few short videos showing my progress, so far I've turned the outside with a tenon and sanded up to 400, the wood is still fairly wet so overnight it will sit in a bag of its own shavings, feel free to critique 








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## Jameshow

Your really getting into it! 

Cheers James


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> Your really getting into it!
> 
> Cheers James


I've spent the last 3 years watching YouTube, I've only recently been able to make space in my garage and be able to afford to buy the peripherals to go with the lathe, I'd spend all day out there now if I could but the dogs need attention too so a couple hours a day is as much as I can justify out there for now. Having nice wood helps too


----------



## akirk

Been tidying up the workshop, and fed up of two boxes of lathe tools which sit collecting sawdust, threw together a small rack… supports repurposed, and then a 1m of a piece of random wood drilled with a 30mm forstner bit (decent famag bits eat through hardwood) with 30mm between each, leaving space for future purchases…


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## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> I've spent the last 3 years watching YouTube, I've only recently been able to make space in my garage and be able to afford to buy the peripherals to go with the lathe, I'd spend all day out there now if I could but the dogs need attention too so a couple hours a day is as much as I can justify out there for now. Having nice wood helps too


You have inspired me tonight! 

A rolling pin! From some scrap hardwood a forum member gave me!


----------



## Orraloon

Stigmorgan said:


> Thanks Phil, it's all I have at the minute and having spent so much recently on the bench grinder, chuck and abranet abrasive mesh I'm flat broke for the foreseeable, sanding sealers, abrasive pastes and finishes are all that's on my Xmas list this year though so who knows.
> 
> This morning I worked turned off the tenon and applied 2 thin coats of the beeswax into the wood and then realised I'd forgotten to print my logo on the base, oh well. I applied the wax with kitchen towel and with the lathe running on its lowest gear so about 450rpm and it has buffed out to a very nice sheen I'm totally in love with the red colouration and with the contrast between sapwood and grain wood, ive also impressed myself at getting the walls and base to a pretty even 5mm all the way through.
> View attachment 121838
> View attachment 121839


A very nice little bowl. Great colours.
Regards
John


----------



## Stigmorgan

Thanks @Jameshow that looks nice and comfy to use, I like the narrowing at each end.

@Orraloon wild cherry is absolutely beautiful and possibly my favourite wood, the red colouration is stunning, hopefully it will remain and not fade away too much. I'm looking forward to using some of the bigger bits I have.


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## NickVanBeest

Customer order: "I want a wooden sacrificial dagger"

The result:






Sapele and beech...

Handle not perfect, but hey, it was the first attempt at anything like this


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## Stigmorgan

Finished my 2nd cherry bowl today, I'm quite happy with it, a little more of the heart and less sapwood would have been nice but overall the two complement each other fairly well I think.




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## bourbon

OK, not woodworking, (and not today, yesterday)


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## NickVanBeest

bourbon said:


> OK, not woodworking, (and not today, yesterday)


Cute!


----------



## hog&amp;bodge

Krisskross said:


> View attachment 121821
> 
> This whirligig has been in progress (time permitting) for about 2 months now, I think I have ironed out the problems and made 3 types of propellor, this one worked best - 45 degree maltese cross - now to make the kids
> View attachment 121820


I like these and have been asked by people to make them. yours looks fab.
I am sure I bought a book with diagrams, no idea what's happened to it.


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## Krisskross

hog&amp;bodge said:


> I like these and have been asked by people to make them. yours looks fab.
> I am sure I bought a book with diagrams, no idea what's happened to it.


Thank you - don't forget to post pics. SPECIAL THANKS to shrimperuk, gwheyduke for the many you tube videos I have watched


----------



## D_W

NickVanBeest said:


> Customer order: "I want a wooden sacrificial dagger"
> 
> The result:
> View attachment 121906
> 
> 
> Sapele and beech...
> 
> Handle not perfect, but hey, it was the first attempt at anything like this



for halloween, my daughter asked if I'd make a wooden knife that she could stick through a pumpkin. We thought maybe that was a bit morbid, but I'd finished two of the kitchen knives earlier.

If you make something, someone will request you make something for them sometimes, so an acquaintance who realized that my knives are "hard and sharp and don't dent on bones" asked if I could make a boning knife and then a knife of his wife's favorite pattern that she's got, but made out of cheap stamped soft steel.

Between last night and today, I ground these patterns out. What's remarkable about knife making is most of it is something anyone who does hand tool woodworking can do, and the hardening part isn't that difficult for about half a dozen steels.

(But I didn't get to make the handles for these- which the recipient wants). Just so nobody thinks I"m advertising services (one thing I won't do is work for pay, or for profit, or whatever). These were done no charge, of course. It's just nice to make things and know they'll be used. The bottom is a boning knife, which is something I don't use -both are extremely thin and crisp - the steel is only about .07" to start and they're given a near flat convex grind. 



I quoted your post mostly because I thought "I just finished these knives, they're packed and ready to go and I'd like to post them, but I probably shouldn't post knives here when someone else requested to leave the wood bits to them..

...and what do you know, there's a knife posted in "last thing made"!


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## Stigmorgan

So today I have impressed myself. A friend is making himself a resin and wood river table, when he found out I'm getting going with the turning he asked if I could make some legs, I had 4 old wooden cricket stumps that the PE teacher threw out so thought I could use them, I thought they would be made of oak but I think they are London plane (please correct me if I'm wrong) I roughed the first one to round and because the grain is so beautiful and because I have to make 4 of them I decided to keep them simple so just added a couple of detail rings at each end then sanded from 120 to 400 and applied some briwax clear furniture wax, I kept a tight hold of the paper towel around the leg to generate some heat and get the wax to soak I to the wood and then polish, then I started on the 2nd leg, so far I have it shaped and by some miracle it is the exact length of the 1st one and the diameter is about 95% accurate over the length. I've managed this by eye as I have no calipers at the minute.








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It seems to chip rather than cut but I'm thinking that's more due to how dry and old they are, the scraper gets a pretty nice finish though and it sands very nicely and doesn't take very long to get through the grits. Will attempt the other 2 tomorrow


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## D_W

I got a piece of london plane tree here a few years ago (which I guess is related to maple?). It makes beautiful light colored chisel handles when it's straight. Mine is relatively new wood and it feels like maple and isn't chippy, but I'd bet those cricket sticks have stories to tell and their age problem makes them a little more brittle. It's a great wood for turning, though - crisp detail, no pores, not too heavy and takes a nice polish easily.


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## Stigmorgan

D_W said:


> I got a piece of london plane tree here a few years ago (which I guess is related to maple?). It makes beautiful light colored chisel handles when it's straight. Mine is relatively new wood and it feels like maple and isn't chippy, but I'd bet those cricket sticks have stories to tell and their age problem makes them a little more brittle. It's a great wood for turning, though - crisp detail, no pores, not too heavy and takes a nice polish easily.


Yeah, as much as getting it to cut is a pain it does finish nice, I'm really enjoying working with it, just a shame I don't have more.


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## mikej460

D_W said:


> I got a piece of london plane tree here a few years ago (which I guess is related to maple?). It makes beautiful light colored chisel handles when it's straight. Mine is relatively new wood and it feels like maple and isn't chippy, but I'd bet those cricket sticks have stories to tell and their age problem makes them a little more brittle. It's a great wood for turning, though - crisp detail, no pores, not too heavy and takes a nice polish easily.


It was actually derived from American Sycamore Platanus × acerifolia - Wikipedia 

Over the pond is often called Lacewood which I've just discovered is really a generic term as described below....

_The name “Lacewood” is used very loosely and can be applied (and misapplied) to a number of different wood species. In its vaguest sense, the term “lacewood” is used to describe any wood that displays figuring that resembles lace. Attempts to identify a specific board macroscopically may be difficult.

Two Australian species, Northern Silky Oak (Cardwellia sublimis), and Southern Silky Oak (Grevillea robusta) can both look very similar, and are sometimes sold as Australian Lacewood. Additionally, Leopardwood (Roupala spp.) looks similar, but tends to be slightly darker brown, and is significantly heavier._

Interesting stuff and beautiful timber - show us a picture then


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## D_W

Looks like a wide range of woods. Lacewood here is a very specific wood (in the US) that has a vivid texture that literally looks like pieces of ribbon (vs. "ribboning" in wood like avodire).

Leopardwood is a wood that looks a little bit like it but is far harder (both are reddish brown).

We don't get much from australia, and the typical woods you'll get like euro beech can be had here, but not at retail (they really need to be gotten FOB by the pallet as they were imported in droves a couple of decades ago and the bottom of the market dropped out - I hear furniture makers will buy beech, but some will also be american beech. Rick Hearne at Hearne's here in the us (where I got Platanus acerifolia) put his thumb on his nose and said "beech...utility wood, we only have it in boules - the lumber is used sometimes by the furniture industry" (which means it would've been horribly overpriced there).

Which is too bad, because it's a far nicer wood to work by hand in the same hardness range as hard maple, and when quartered, looks really nice. You could harvest american beech here (and in good quality, it's the equal of euro beech, but a little prettier), but there's no real market for it. It falls in my township and rots (and since it's on "gov" land, there's no access to it).

At any rate, got off track. Most of our exotics come from africa and central and southern america. We have our own "play the lottery" woods, though, like granadillo - which could be a gorgeous brown wood that takes a high polish, or a wood that looks like a double hard oak with stringy grain. Blanks of it area usually waxed leaving you gambling.


----------



## D_W

Stigmorgan said:


> Yeah, as much as getting it to cut is a pain it does finish nice, I'm really enjoying working with it, just a shame I don't have more.



ditto that - I had a quartered piece about as big as two textbooks, but because I got it as a cutoff from hearne's, it cost some goofy amount, like $13.50 a board foot. It wasn't that well quartered and it twisted, but the theory of spontaneous junk (keep enough junk around and eventually something will pop up from it) and keeping it led to sawing it up for chisel handles and it was just dandy.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Yes. Lacewood here at least is just quarter sawn plane. Garno may be along soon to post pictures of a piece.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Phil Pascoe said:


> Yes. Lacewood here at least is just quarter sawn plane. Garno may be along soon to post pictures of a piece.


I think it's one of the most gorgeous grain patterns, a real shame my spindles don't really show off the lace pattern very much, just a thin strip running the length.


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## Jameshow

Finally finished my first turning piece.....


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## D_W

Looks like a marples carving style handle - I'll bet it's FAR more comfortable than a stock handle, especially when the pan is loaded. 

My favorite chisel handles, even if some have more sharp lines and decoration, none feels better when the taper fits the hand.


----------



## Sachakins

Not all on one day, but over last few weeks and still need to make some more...


----------



## D_W

this thread is such a joy - most other forums have gone dormant with things being made as the topical forums lose traffic. This thread makes me want to go tot he shop and make.


----------



## Stigmorgan

D_W said:


> this thread is such a joy - most other forums have gone dormant with things being made as the topical forums lose traffic. This thread makes me want to go tot he shop and make.


Do it . I spend a couple hours a day in my little space, I finish work at 12, spend a few hours with the dogs then out to the lathe for 2 or 3 hours before heading over to school to lock up.
Today I shaped out the 3rd coffee table leg, unfortunately though I came across a nasty knot that wasn't very solid so had to look for something to fill it with, ended up using sawdust from the leg itself and some fibreglass resin that I usually use for making cosplay armour, with the colder temps it doesn't set very quick but should be ready for a final scraping then sand and wax before moving on to the final one.


----------



## Yorkieguy

Re London Plane (AKA 'Lacewood'), I turned a square edged bowl from a London Plane blank 15cm square x 7,5cm high. ('6" x 3" in 'old money'). You need to keep your fingers well out of the way of the corners as you only see the corners as a 'ghost'. I made another one in Rosewood. Both were presents for my two daughters in law. Then I made another in cherry for my wife. Some pics attached. 

I thought they'd make a change from 'round & brown'.

Hope that's of interest. (For the avoidance of doubt, I do turn other things!).


----------



## Stigmorgan

@Yorkieguy those are beautiful. From the roughing gouge my blanks are very rough and almost abrasive, so much so that it caught the meat of my hand and bit me as I was pulling along the tool rest and dragged a chunk of the loose skin in between the wood and the rest.




Looks worse than it feels but it certainly woke me up


----------



## Fitzroy

Yorkieguy said:


> Re London Plane (AKA 'Lacewood'), I turned a square edged bowl from a London Plane blank 15cm square x 7,5cm high. ('6" x 3" in 'old money'). You need to keep your fingers well out of the way of the corners as you only see the corners as a 'ghost'. I made another one in Rosewood. Both were presents for my two daughters in law. Then I made another in cherry for my wife. Some pics attached.
> 
> I thought they'd make a change from 'round & brown'.
> 
> Hope that's of interest. (For the avoidance of doubt, I do turn other things!).


They are fab, they show of the grain of the wood in a really spectacular way. So well finished as well.


----------



## Orraloon

Stigmorgan said:


> @Yorkieguy those are beautiful. From the roughing gouge my blanks are very rough and almost abrasive, so much so that it caught the meat of my hand and bit me as I was pulling along the tool rest and dragged a chunk of the loose skin in between the wood and the rest.
> View attachment 122194
> 
> Looks worse than it feels but it certainly woke me up


An artist has to put sweat and blood into the work but its best to not overdo the blood..
I usually get that during the sanding of odd shaped things. It does focus the mind on where those jagged bits are hurtling around.
Regards
John


----------



## Adam W.

A WIP frame.

Currently letting the egg tempera dry and harden, then I need to tidy up the sgraffito a little and do the punchwork between the pastiglia.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Just finished a set of coffee table legs from some cricket stumps our PE teacher threw out for a friend, absolutely love them and they are all exactly the same length and the diameters are all within a few mm.


----------



## Adam W.

Mmmmm, Nice Betty!


----------



## NickVanBeest

Not really made anything, but received a bunch of goodies, from @Chrispy (MFT top), Benchdogs.co.uk (rail) and Banggood!



Getting ready for the next project


----------



## Chrispy

NickVanBeest said:


> Not really made anything, but received a bunch of goodies, from @Chrispy (MFT top), Benchdogs.co.uk (rail) and Banggood!
> View attachment 122297
> 
> 
> Getting ready for the next project


Glad to see it arrived safely.


----------



## baldkev

Adam W. said:


> Currently letting the egg tempera dry and harden, then I need to tidy up the sgraffito a little and do the punchwork between the pastiglia.



You lost me there, but it looks great  with the centre section, did you carve it and then gold leaf?


----------



## Adam W.

baldkev said:


> You lost me there, but it looks great  with the centre section, did you carve it and then gold leaf?



Sorry, I do it on purpose to be an elitist nob. Not really!

It's painted on with 30 coats of gesso (pastiglia), so that it raises up off the flat area. Then it's gilded with 24k gold. The egg tempera (blue) is a very old form of paint made with egg yolk and pigment painted over gold in this case, and the flowers are then scratched into the paint revealing the gold underneath. 

It takes a while to go hard and produces a velvety soft matt surface, which is lovely to touch. 

I'll post a picture when it's all done and the chap is happy with the result.


----------



## Mike.R

The chest for the architect is finished.

The oak frame was wire brushed to give it some character then fumed in a homemade tent with ammonia.

The madrona burr drawer fronts were french polished, knocked back then waxed, The architect liked square socket brass castors so they were the finishing touch.


----------



## Adam W.

Stylish.


----------



## Cabinetman

Oh wow! That is superb! Not often we see such good work here or anywhere else. Bet your client is delighted.
I think I may have missed previous messages, dovetails? Ian


----------



## Henniep

Mike.R said:


> The chest for the architect is finished.
> 
> The oak frame was wire brushed to give it some character then fumed in a homemade tent with ammonia.
> 
> The madrona burr drawer fronts were french polished, knocked back then waxed, The architect liked square socket brass castors so they were the finishing touch.
> 
> View attachment 122320
> View attachment 122321
> View attachment 122322
> View attachment 122323
> View attachment 122324


Amazing piece of work! A true professional - well done.


----------



## thetyreman

Mike.R said:


> The chest for the architect is finished.
> 
> The oak frame was wire brushed to give it some character then fumed in a homemade tent with ammonia.
> 
> The madrona burr drawer fronts were french polished, knocked back then waxed, The architect liked square socket brass castors so they were the finishing touch.
> 
> View attachment 122320
> View attachment 122321
> View attachment 122322
> View attachment 122323
> View attachment 122324



sublime work!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Started another piece on the lathe today, it's a piece of the cherry I've had for about while, if it turns out well enough it will be an Xmas gift for a friend.




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## Jameshow

Hey your stealing a march on me!! 

I'd better get turning! 

Got a few blanks if a forumite thanks Hutzl! 

Cheers James


----------



## __jvc26

NickVanBeest said:


> Not really made anything, but received a bunch of goodies, from @Chrispy (MFT top), Benchdogs.co.uk (rail) and Banggood!
> View attachment 122297
> 
> 
> Getting ready for the next project



How are the clamps (mid right)?


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> Hey your stealing a march on me!!
> 
> I'd better get turning!
> 
> Got a few blanks if a forumite thanks Hutzl!
> 
> Cheers James


Haha, I'm loving it, I'm gonna save a small fortune on Xmas this year, instead of buying stuff I can just turn out some fancy looking pots and bowls


----------



## NickVanBeest

__jvc26 said:


> How are the clamps (mid right)?


Working well on the few tests I've done, not used them in anger yet


----------



## __jvc26

NickVanBeest said:


> Working well on the few tests I've done, not used them in anger yet


Thanks


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> Started another piece on the lathe today, it's a piece of the cherry I've had for about while, if it turns out well enough it will be an Xmas gift for a friend.
> View attachment 122399


I've stick a sheet of ply onto a block of oak! 

Ready to turn!!! 

Presume you turn side grain across the bowel?

Cheers James


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> I've stick a sheet of ply onto a block of oak!
> 
> Ready to turn!!!
> 
> Presume you turn side grain across the bowel?
> 
> Cheers James


Actually no, this piece is end grain, its a little more work intensive to hollow out but the grain figure in this cherry is absolutely beautiful and worth the extra effort, I do have another piece that I started turning side grain, once rounded off its very slim so will likely be a vase of some form.
All my cherry blanks are from one trunk cut into sections.





The 2 pieces of spalted birch on the left are so far gone that I can't cut them no matter how sharp my gouge is so gonna have to get them stabilised before I use them.


----------



## Krisskross

Stigmorgan said:


> @Yorkieguy those are beautiful. From the roughing gouge my blanks are very rough and almost abrasive, so much so that it caught the meat of my hand and bit me as I was pulling along the tool rest and dragged a chunk of the loose skin in between the wood and the rest.
> View attachment 122194
> 
> Looks worse than it feels but it certainly woke me up


Oooooooo ouch, I caught my right hand ring finger while sanding, gave a shock, bit of a scrape nowt bad, darnt tell hubby in case he took power tools off me lol


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> Actually no, this piece is end grain, its a little more work intensive to hollow out but the grain figure in this cherry is absolutely beautiful and worth the extra effort, I do have another piece that I started turning side grain, once rounded off its very slim so will likely be a vase of some form.
> All my cherry blanks are from one trunk cut into sections.
> View attachment 122455
> 
> The 2 pieces of spalted birch on the left are so far gone that I can't cut them no matter how sharp my gouge is so gonna have to get them stabilised before I use them.



I tried turning some oak not a disaster but a wake up call not to run before you can walk!

Chips like anything and blunts the chisel like nothing else! 

I'm going to stick to softer woods I think! 

Cheers James


----------



## Krisskross

Another whirligig - love making them


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> I tried turning some oak not a disaster but a wake up call not to run before you can walk!
> 
> Chips like anything and blunts the chisel like nothing else!
> 
> I'm going to stick to softer woods I think!
> 
> Cheers James


There's a reason it has the nickname of Ironwood , i think the key to it all is having your gouge as sharp as possible. I have mountains of oak here and a ton of silver birch too, will soon have more, I have 53 trees on site that need crown reduction, 4 silver birch and 1 oak to be completely felled . I've not tried any oak yet but silver birch is nice to turn when it's green, it goes punky very quickly if not stored.properly though.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Jameshow said:


> I'm going to stick to softer woods I think!



Don't. Hard, even, fine grained woods are easier. Wood doesn't come much harder than African Blackwood and box and they are a joy to turn. Laburnum and yew are hard but excellent to turn.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Stigmorgan said:


> ... silver birch is nice to turn when it's green, it goes punky very quickly if not stored.properly though.



It spalts beautifully.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Phil Pascoe said:


> It spalts beautifully.


Yeah it's stunning, I have quite a few pieces but they have gone too far so now I need to look into stabilising so I can cut them rather than tear them apart. I even have a couple that I've left completely natural on the outside, hollowed out by hand and lined with resin to turn into plant pots for my huge spider plants


----------



## Orraloon

Jameshow said:


> I tried turning some oak not a disaster but a wake up call not to run before you can walk!
> 
> Chips like anything and blunts the chisel like nothing else!
> 
> I'm going to stick to softer woods I think!
> 
> Cheers James



As Phil said hard woods are most times better to turn than soft woods. Oak is not particularly hard either. The chipping sounds like you are not sharpening often enough. If you have to sharpen every couple of minutes so be it. Thats just how turning goes.
Regards
John


----------



## Cooper

Jameshow said:


> I tried turning some oak not a disaster but a wake up call not to run before you can walk!
> 
> Chips like anything and blunts the chisel like nothing else!
> 
> I'm going to stick to softer woods I think!


I'm no expert but I must agree with the comment from Orraloon. I use seasoned and green Oak along with anything else that comes my way and I don't find problems with tools blunting particularly quickly with Oak and I get a much nicer surface from the Oak than soft woods. I am rather reluctant to sharpen the gouges too soon, as I'm worse at sharpening than turning but that's another thread.
Martin


----------



## Jameshow

Oh great perhaps i had the rest too far from the wood? 1"??

Felt dangerous when it caught! 

Cheers James


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Catching up on this thread with a few bits I've been whittling lately.

Steam bent-laminated Oak refectory type table.









A refurbishment of some existing old built in wardrobes with fresh Birch Ply doors and birch-edge trims.















Some hedgehog boxes modelled by Harold






Oak bookcases with curved doors






Cheers.
Oli


----------



## Jameshow

I'm starting to feel inadequate!!! 

Cheers James


----------



## Droogs

I really do like the lines of the refectory table. For me , I would have included either an ABW or a fumed Ash inlay to accentuate the flow of the curves.


----------



## Adam W.

Jameshow said:


> I'm starting to feel inadequate!!!
> 
> Cheers James


Join the club.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Jameshow said:


> Oh great perhaps i had the rest too far from the wood? 1"??
> 
> Felt dangerous when it caught!
> 
> Cheers James


Yes. Way to far. Obviously with a shaped piece sometimes it'll be that far (and further) away, but it should be as close as possible.


----------



## Stigmorgan

@blackteaonesugar that's some amazing work, absolutely in love with that table though  gave me a little woodgasm


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Stigmorgan said:


> @blackteaonesugar that's some amazing work, absolutely in love with that table though  gave me a little woodgasm


What you do in your own home....


----------



## Stigmorgan

@Jameshow 1" is way too far unless you have no option, as @Phil Pascoe said, as close as possible, I tend have a couple of millimeters between the rest and the wood and work until there's at most 10 to 15mm then move it in again, obviously this is harder to keep to if you have curves/shape to your piece and when hollowing out, the further away the rest the more chatter you will get as the piece tries to flip the tool out of your hand.


----------



## Jameshow

Phil Pascoe said:


> Yes. Way to far. Obviously with a shaped piece sometimes it'll be that far (and further) away, but it should be as close as possible.


Thanks


----------



## Garden Shed Projects

blackteaonesugar said:


> Catching up on this thread with a few bits I've been whittling lately.
> 
> Steam bent-laminated Oak refectory type table.
> View attachment 122568
> 
> View attachment 122569
> 
> 
> A refurbishment of some existing old built in wardrobes with fresh Birch Ply doors and birch-edge trims.
> 
> View attachment 122570
> 
> 
> View attachment 122571
> 
> View attachment 122572
> 
> 
> Some hedgehog boxes modelled by Harold
> 
> View attachment 122573
> 
> 
> Oak bookcases with curved doors
> 
> View attachment 122574
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> Oli


The table is fantastic an absolute work of art. You should be really chuffed with it. I would love to know how you achieved the corner leg detail. And a talking dog, whats not to like


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Garden Shed Projects said:


> The table is fantastic an absolute work of art. You should be really chuffed with it. I would love to know how you achieved the corner leg detail. And a talking dog, whats not to like


Thanks a lot.
Yeah it was a bit of a head scratcher at the time. Essentially quite straightforward but you know, not, if you see what I mean 

Hate to get all social meeja on you, but there's a few shots of the making of the table amongst my Instagram if you fancied a look.

Instagram

Insta

Instagram

Finished piece
Essentially though, it's two differently curved steam bent laminated sections, glued together and then a long Mitre down the outside edge. This was mated with an opposite to make one leg.
Repeat for each corner.

I had to let the legs into the top at the same time as gluing up the long Mitre, otherwise it wouldn't have been possible to put it through the top.


----------



## m.webb63

Made a Mercedes 4x4 tractor for a friend's son using the Richard Blizzard plans and some offcuts. Didn't turn out too bad and the wee man is pleased with it.


----------



## IanB

Very happy with this, from a piece of 1 inch warped scrap cherry - definitely the thinnest thing I've ever turned!


----------



## rob1693

Redwood and leather stool turned mortice and tenon construction made from reclaimed 2x2 and reclaimed sofa leather


----------



## Mike.R

blackteaonesugar said:


> Catching up on this thread with a few bits I've been whittling lately.
> 
> Steam bent-laminated Oak refectory type table.
> View attachment 122568
> 
> View attachment 122569
> 
> 
> A refurbishment of some existing old built in wardrobes with fresh Birch Ply doors and birch-edge trims.
> 
> View attachment 122570
> 
> 
> View attachment 122571
> 
> View attachment 122572
> 
> 
> Some hedgehog boxes modelled by Harold
> 
> View attachment 122573
> 
> 
> Oak bookcases with curved doors
> 
> View attachment 122574
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> Oli


----------



## NickDReed

Built a log store out of old facia, pallets and an old shed, my brother had an off cut of rubber roofing. All in cost me a box of nails a can of paint and glue for the rubber. Nothing special about the construction other than it all coming in under about £40.


----------



## TRITON

blackteaonesugar said:


> Steam bent-laminated Oak refectory type table.


That really is a lovely table. Up there with the best. 

I like the utilitarian curved bookshelves too. Very nice and practical


----------



## Stigmorgan

Wanted to try a different finish to the beeswax furniture polish I've been using so today while in town I picked up a tin of pure walnut oil to use as a foodsafe finish, when I got home I went straight out to put a coat on the cherrywood pedestal bowl I started a while ago, this piece is going to be a Xmas gift for a friend, pretty sure he will love it asuch as I do. 
So far it has one coat of oil, I'm not sure how long I should leave it between coats so going to leave it overnight, I'll put another coat on in the morning followed by a 3rd in the afternoon, if the wood still seems thirsty at theb3rd coat I'll do a 4th after work Monday afternoon.




Your browser is not able to display this video.


----------



## Garno

Stigmorgan said:


> Wanted to try a different finish to the beeswax furniture polish I've been using so today while in town I picked up a tin of pure walnut oil to use as a foodsafe finish, when I got home I went straight out to put a coat on the cherrywood pedestal bowl I started a while ago, this piece is going to be a Xmas gift for a friend, pretty sure he will love it asuch as I do.
> So far it has one coat of oil, I'm not sure how long I should leave it between coats so going to leave it overnight, I'll put another coat on in the morning followed by a 3rd in the afternoon, if the wood still seems thirsty at theb3rd coat I'll do a 4th after work Monday afternoon.
> View attachment 122792





Very nice, I always thought that with oils it is always best to leave it for 24 hours between coats ( I may well be wrong )


----------



## Stigmorgan

Garno said:


> Very nice, I always thought that with oils it is always best to leave it for 24 hours between coats ( I may well be wrong )


You are probably right, I've checked on it this morning by rubbing it off with paper towel and there wasn't any residue transfer so figured it was dry enough to take another coat, 2nd coat soaked in pretty quickly so put quite a bit of oil on and left it wet, will check on it later but will likely wait until tomorrow afternoon fornthe 3rd coat. As a side note, my fingers are feeling lovely and soft after working the oil into the wood


----------



## NickVanBeest

Stigmorgan said:


> As a side note, my fingers are feeling lovely and soft after working the oil into the wood


And smell like walnuts?


----------



## danst96

Finally received my tools from the UK a couple of weeks ago, it's a bit of a shambles at the moment and the house I'm in is very much temporary so it's a large mess but I've made a giant outfeed table/workbench and a wood trolley which has temporary clamp storage on it until I get my own shop.

Oh and it's ruddy cold, last weekend it was around -15 outside and this is an uninsulated garage, I think it was around -10 in there at most. Bit warmer this weekend, just -2.


----------



## Jameshow

Nice so much more space in the states!

We went to visit our friends in grand rapids and the space they have is immense, double garage no probs, room for a workshop 50x20ft no probs all for the price if a decent detached house in northern England!


----------



## Stigmorgan

So while my little pedestal bowl soaks in its 3rd and final coat of walnut oil I decided to throw on a scrap of spalted silver birch that was cut from a larger piece, I forgot to take before pics as I wasn't confident it wouldn't explode but I'm happy to say it turned beautifully, once sanded up to 400 I put it up to full speed and applied Briwax furniture wax and let a bit of heat build up to melt the wax into the wood. Should make a nice little Xmas present for someone


----------



## Droogs

just 5 more by breakfast thank you


----------



## Mike.R

A seasonal log store.


----------



## MarkAW

Mike.R said:


> A seasonal log store.
> 
> View attachment 122909



Does that TV use one of those amazon "fire sticks" then?


----------



## Smike

Made a Leaf Box from an idea on YouTube


----------



## Garno

Smike said:


> Made a Leaf Box from an idea on YouTube View attachment 122918
> View attachment 122918
> View attachment 122919



Absolutely love that


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Made a couple of pin boards for a cat lover.
I'm a dog guy myself..


----------



## Stigmorgan

I'm quite pleased with myself today, some of you may remember my failed end grain birch goblet




Today I decided to put it back on the lathe crossgrain orientation and once rounded off I came up with this...




Your browser is not able to display this video.














Used an offcut from the table legs I did a couple weeks ago for the finial/nob/handle, furniture wax friction polished into the wood inside and out, it's not a perfect fit but as my first turned box I'm really happy with it.


----------



## brittonc

Still new to turning and this is about my 10th bowl and the first one I did using just gouges, having started with carbides. Pleased with the shape and finish but need to get a bit more depth to it. May put it back on the lathe and do that at some point. Paduak is now my favourite wood.


----------



## Stigmorgan

brittonc said:


> View attachment 123030
> 
> 
> Still new to turning and this is about my 10th bowl and the first one I did using just gouges, having started with carbides. Pleased with the shape and finish but need to get a bit more depth to it. May put it back on the lathe and do that at some point. Paduak is now my favourite wood.


Thats beautiful


----------



## Chunkytfg

Mother in Law wanted a box to put the ashes of her parents in so I happily took the chance to get some practice making square boxes and made this Solid ash ashes box. Nothing fancy and tbh the little skirt/feet thing I put on it was a mistake as the Mitres are really not great. In fact I grain wrapped the whole box and the only mitre that actually fits perfectly is the one on the corner where the grains done match!





(One day I'll work out why the pictures upload upside-down!)

And I've finally finished my Wardrobe units. Sliding MDF doors either Satin White or Ash Veneered with Matching edgebanding.
Drawers are all From one sheet of Birch ply so again grain all matched and managed to get them out of a pretty clean BB/BB sheet so it only has one small patch just below a handle cut out. Drawers are all Blum undercount slides which are a pigto get your head round but glad I've done them now as I think I've made all the mistake you could make with them now!

Learnt lots from both projects and hopefully won't make the same mistakes again next time


----------



## brittonc

Stigmorgan said:


> Thats beautiful


Thank you.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Another day, another pot, this time from a bone dry 3yr seasoned piece of sycamore with a pine finial cut from a scrap of 2x2


----------



## IanB

Stigmorgan said:


> Wanted to try a different finish to the beeswax furniture polish I've been using so today while in town I picked up a tin of pure walnut oil to use as a foodsafe finish, when I got home I went straight out to put a coat on the cherrywood pedestal bowl I started a while ago, this piece is going to be a Xmas gift for a friend, pretty sure he will love it asuch as I do.
> So far it has one coat of oil, I'm not sure how long I should leave it between coats so going to leave it overnight, I'll put another coat on in the morning followed by a 3rd in the afternoon, if the wood still seems thirsty at theb3rd coat I'll do a 4th after work Monday afternoon.
> View attachment 122792


May I ask where you get your walnut oil/what brand it is? From my googling, it seems the Americans have a brand called Mahoney's which seems to be the go to brand for wood finishing, rather than the culinary type, but I can't see any equivalent here in the UK?
Ian


----------



## Stigmorgan

@IanB Can't recall the brand but I found it in a shop called homesense in Farnborough, its ingredient list says 100% walnut oil so figured it would work fine.


----------



## IanB

Stigmorgan said:


> @IanB Can't recall the brand but I found it in a shop called homesense in Farnborough, its ingredient list says 100% walnut oil so figured it would work fine.


Ok thanks!


----------



## Stigmorgan

IanB said:


> Ok thanks!


No worries, I think as long as its 100% walnut oil it doesn't matter if its sold for cooking, in fact that's what makes it ideal as a foodsafe finish


----------



## Phil Pascoe

An interesting article -




__





WALNUT OIL: a wood bowl finish?


WALNUT OIL: A wood bowl finish? It has been a lot of years ago that I had my first experience with walnut oil. Figuratively speaking, that experience left a bad taste in my mouth that lingered for months. To be fair about it, my disappointing results back then came more from my wrongheaded...



woodbarter.com


----------



## Stigmorgan

Phil Pascoe said:


> An interesting article -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WALNUT OIL: a wood bowl finish?
> 
> 
> WALNUT OIL: A wood bowl finish? It has been a lot of years ago that I had my first experience with walnut oil. Figuratively speaking, that experience left a bad taste in my mouth that lingered for months. To be fair about it, my disappointing results back then came more from my wrongheaded...
> 
> 
> 
> woodbarter.com


Wow, thanks for finding this gem Phil, very interesting, not sure I fully understand all of it yet but I get the main impression, personally I really like the low sheen look the cherrywood has taken on with the oil and I wasn't planning to add a further finish, which if I've understood correctly would be the best thing to allow the oil to dry and "harden".


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I googled "does walnut oil polymerise" and that came up. I thought it did. It seems from that that the oils that polymerise are the ones that go rancid, which is interesting to know.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Phil Pascoe said:


> I googled "does walnut oil polymerise" and that came up. I thought it did. It seems from that that the oils that polymerise are the ones that go rancid, which is interesting to know.


Yeah, seems almost like it's a game of luck as to whether you get polymerisation and a nice finish or not, I think maybe several light coats of oil spread over a longer period may be a better application rather than 2 or 3 heavy coats that take forever (or never) to dry fully


----------



## FlatlandsF7a

Hi all, newbie here. First homemade tool, following the great Paul Sellers' instructions (although modified as I could only get 12mm steel). I'm very pleased, and it even cuts well! (excuse the state of the workshop....)


----------



## bourbon

I'm getting into turning now. Yes I have a cheap Clarke CWL1000 lathe and the cheap tools it came with.


----------



## Stigmorgan

FlatlandsF7a said:


> Hi all, newbie here. First homemade tool, following the great Paul Sellers' instructions (although modified as I could only get 12mm steel). I'm very pleased, and it even cuts well! (excuse the state of the workshop....)
> View attachment 123131


Very nice,


bourbon said:


> I'm getting into turning now. Yes I have a cheap Clarke CWL1000 lathe and the cheap tools it came with. View attachment 123145


Cheap don't always mean bad, gotta start somewhere, at the minute I only have a bowl gouge, spindle roughing gouge and a skew, as I get better and sell a few bits I will be able to buy more tools and improve my skills and what I'm able to produce


----------



## Bruce Mack

Model of Al-Khazneh, Petra. 23 x 32 inches. I did it because I first saw the structure in a photo magazine ~40 years ago and wanted to model it in the light of sunrise. I could not find instructions on posting pictures to your site so please delete my submission if it violates your directives.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Bruce Mack said:


> Model of Al-Khazneh, Petra. 23 x 32 inches. I did it because I first saw the structure in a photo magazine ~40 years ago and wanted to model it in the light of sunrise. I could not find instructions on posting pictures to your site so please delete my submission if it violates your directives.View attachment 123251


Thats beautiful, how long did it take you?


----------



## Bruce Mack

Stigmorgan said:


> Thats beautiful, how long did it take you?


Thank you! It took forever. I began in late 2019 expecting to complete it by August 2020 and enter it in the Minnesota State Fair. The fair is a big deal here, with 2 million-plus attendees in 2019. When it was canceled because of COVID, I took a needed break. When I resumed work I realized I was out of my depth but plodded on, learning how to make the turret from plaster cloth gauze and the surround from extruded polystyrene insulation. The color was especially difficult. My first effort was a drab brown. My wife vetted it and told me "no". I bought many 8 oz. cans of acrylic paint samples, mixed and matched them and when I got a hue I liked, had a couple of cans custom mixed. The color was "right" but the piece still had no depth until I used Earth Pigments, dry and nontoxic powders from France (very reasonably priced in the US), which I dusted on with a brush to get an orangish overtone which I applied selectively to the left side of the model to get a simulation of directed light. I finished in mid-August 2021. The State Fair was an anticlimax for me. We and our friends from the East Coast, all in our 70s, were scared of the Delta version of Covid although we were fully vaccinated with boosters too. We did not attend. When I claimed the model after the Fair I saw it had been placed behind 3 full-sized canoes in poor visibility. It now lives on the mail table in our front hallway.


----------



## D_W

The first of five rosewood handled parers. I love the feel of rosewood with the pores filled. These don't look like anything unusual, but I attached a picture of the side of the grind so you can see the profile of the parers that I hammer and grind out - it's nice when they are "the old way", with curves, like nature. This chisel tapers a couple of hundredths in width so that when it's deep in a dado, it doesn't bind, and the front is a little over a tenth of an inch and the tang thickness is about 0.23 - the thickness taper is fast at first (curved) and then leaves the bulk of the business end of the chisel relatively thin (they're only about 0.13-.14 thickness in the middle when the bevel end is .11" or so.








After the bits of handling here, it needs one last refresh on the metal and wood and then it'll be off. You can see some distortion on the filed bolster - I've never seen those finished really well on an old chisel but the finish level on the rest of the blade is maybe a little overboard. 

I'll test pare with this chisel in rosewood shortly. It shouldn't really be bothered by anything as it's tempered to C64 in the same steel I like to use for all of the chisels now - 26c3. The steel is fine grained and there are no big carbides roaming around in it and it hardens to a very high hardness out of the quench (about 68) coming back to a nice temper at light straw. 

As mentioned, the other four will look about the same with handles decreasing in size slightly as the width of the chisel decreases. They sharpen relatively easily despite the hardness due to the fact that there's no chromium or vanadium running around in them to resist a sharpening stone.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

Don't be too impressed, I didn't make the cabinet, but I did make all the holes in the door. The Xbox was overheating. Now it is not.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Nothing new made for the last couple of days but have been roughing a few bits of silver birch to shape and filling cracks with glue, I use a Locktite brand of gel glue that dries/sets to a flexible rubber like substance, today I finished one of them and turned a very small oak dish, both sanded to 320 and friction polished with furniture wax


----------



## D_W

finished the parers. it may look like the handle on the next to smallest is too short compared to the smallest, but it's a trick - I never evened the length of the chisels out, so I slid it down a little else the bevel end looks like a finger that got in a jointer.










grinding blades back to make them all identical length isn't my specialty.

Total cost to make a set of chisels like this (after you make some that you have to throw away - I don't know, that part goes away with some experience) is about $125. It depends on how much grinding and what handles.

I know the tradition was to use relatively inexpensive wood for handles, so I don't make handles out of ebony (I have a lot of it, it just starts to border on being prissy at some point, and these aren't that).

There is one step left on these before I box them and send them off - tape off the bolsters and finish a thin french polish on the handles until the pores are mostly gone. then if they're used ( I sure hope they get used), the person using them just needs to touch up shellac every decade or so of actual use to keep them nice (and the pores will stay filled).

I did put a maker's mark on them, but it's on the underside, stamped into the metal, not printed on (I hate that). I guess an etch would be permanent, but etch or laser would be very undude on this style of chisel.


----------



## jcassidy

@D_W where do I send the money??


----------



## blackteaonesugar

A shoe storage facility in birch ply and Formica.


----------



## rob1693

Some mallets I've made for working and shaping copper, heads made from leylandii shafts reclaimed douglas fir


----------



## D_W

jcassidy said:


> @D_W where do I send the money??



I think the government will take as much as you want to send!


----------



## Fitzroy

blackteaonesugar said:


> A shoe storage facility in birch ply and Formica.
> 
> View attachment 123474
> 
> View attachment 123476
> 
> View attachment 123477


But you know, they will never put their shoes on it! Near it, next to it, around it, but never on it.


----------



## blackteaonesugar

I did say they needed to throw away most of their shoes so as not to spoil the clean look!


----------



## Gant

Mallet from offcuts of cherry and oak plus some cocobola and a handle of an unknown hardwood from my late father’s turning stash.


----------



## Baball

Not the last thing I've made, rather the first thing I made that is in active service in the house instead of the workshop; a small hack of an Ikea shoe cupboard where the shelf is too narrow to be of any use. The plan was to put a front on the drawer but I don't really want to cover it up 




I haven't yet got started with hand tools, although I want to, so the joints were made on this jig for my homemade router table:


----------



## Original-Oddball

Asymmetrical turning.
Decided to something with a lump of hawthorn I was given and had a go at Asymmetrical turning.
Some general observations.
Definitely not for "entry level"
The name finger breaker for this style is apt! I didn't break anything but had a nasty thump due to a moments inattention!
It's a little unnerving when the bowl gouge hits wood then air then wood continually but with gentle slow, small tool movements it gets the job done.
I experienced difficulty in seeing the shape where the gaps in the wood was as it was turning and used chalk (as the wood was dark) to highlight the high spots which worked quite well.


----------



## DavidConnelly

A wee lignum box. Love working with this wood.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Two pens in lacewood (found in my bought in firewood) - one needs lining up slightly, the grain pattern wasn't obvious for some reason til after I'd assembled it. The other hasn't a noticeable grain to line up.


----------



## Adam W.

Lovely!
Some quality work here.


----------



## Original-Oddball

Asymmetric turning #2
Was asked to make a retirement presentation bowl for someone from the local Sea Cadets.
The requirements were a bowl but had to be shaped like the Isle of Anglesey!
A bit of head scratching and I came up with this :-












Striped Sapele probably not the best choice but Turned out ok, (pardon the pun)


----------



## Stigmorgan

Original-Oddball said:


> Asymmetric turning #2
> Was asked to make a retirement presentation bowl for someone from the local Sea Cadets.
> The requirements were a bowl but had to be shaped like the Isle of Anglesey!
> A bit of head scratching and I came up with this :-
> 
> View attachment 123602
> View attachment 123603
> View attachment 123604
> 
> Striped Sapele probably not the best choice but Turned out ok, (pardon the pun)


Thats really nice, love the mix of saw and lathe work


----------



## Alun Caerdydd

First post on this very informative forum. I feel a bit intimidated seeing the superb work here and in my own defence have to say I don’t have a lot of gear other than my trim router, no 5 plane some chisels and workmate. I’ve renovated three late 19th century /early 20th century chisels as a gift and made my first box to hold them from an old sycamore plank.


----------



## NickDReed

First time I've done anything on a lathe since school. Bought the lathe with several gouges including a large Sorby roughing gouge with no handle. So..... Old bit of oak banister and an hour and a half later. 







Pretty please with it. If anyone has a link to some suitable epoxy for setting the gouge in I'd appreciate it. Also if anyone has an idea about what to use as a metal ring prevent the neck from splitting advice would be welcomed


----------



## Droogs

I always burn new handles on to the tang, was how I was taught and don't know any other way that works long term other than epoxy


----------



## Stigmorgan

NickDReed said:


> First time I've done anything on a lathe since school. Bought the lathe with several gouges including a large Sorby roughing gouge with no handle. So..... Old bit of oak banister and an hour and a half later. View attachment 123621
> View attachment 123622
> 
> 
> Pretty please with it. If anyone has a link to some suitable epoxy for setting the gouge in I'd appreciate it. Also if anyone has an idea about what to use as a metal ring prevent the neck from splitting advice would be welcomed


As @Droogs Said, burn it in or use an epoxy, for the ferrule you could use a piece of copper or brass pipe


----------



## mikej460

Alun Caerdydd said:


> First post on this very informative forum. I feel a bit intimidated seeing the superb work here and in my own defence have to say I don’t have a lot of gear other than my trim router, no 5 plane some chisels and workmate. I’ve renovated three late 19th century /early 20th century chisels as a gift and made my first box to hold them from an old sycamore plank.


Lovely job, I do like sycamore. Where did you get the nice catch?


----------



## Adam W.

Finished, I hope he likes it........


----------



## Stigmorgan

Pottering on the lathe the last few days, got a few things roughed out ready to finish, today I took an Iroko pallet block and had a go at a Xmas tree, im pretty happy with the shape, a few holes and cracks filled with glue and sawdust, 2 cherry pots and an oak one on the lathe ready for sanding.


----------



## Alun Caerdydd

I took the catch off a box that once held a bottle of wine. I had ordered some brass ones online but they looked awful. I found it difficult to source good hinges and catches. Maybe more experienced members and box makers will be able to help. Thanks Mike.


----------



## Jameshow

Working on the starlet yacht build, planked up with cedar planking glued with polyurethane glue, not good on my hands!! 

Will primer next Monday when the Mrs is at work all day. 

Still waiting for plans.


----------



## Brodinator4810

Four of John Heisz’s parallel bar clamps from some salvaged doors and an 8x2


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Alun Caerdydd said:


> I took the catch off a box that once held a bottle of wine. I had ordered some brass ones online but they looked awful. I found it difficult to source good hinges and catches. Maybe more experienced members and box makers will be able to help. Thanks Mike.








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smartBoxmaker is run by leading box maker Andrew Crawford. Attend box making courses, read the latest news, or buy premium box supplies online.



www.smartboxmaker.com


----------



## kinverkid

I just finished these plant pot stands for presents. The three from the left are of a mystery wood reclaimed from a neighbours garden table and the far right is reclaimed Sapele window frame and is slightly thicker than the others as it was the prototype. They are 550mm high and take a 220mm pot.


----------



## kinverkid

Also, had a bit of cherry rescued from the firewood pile a couple of years back. Downloaded the PDF plans for a 'Fish Head' marking gauge from Rex Kruegers site. A nice, quick and easy project. Useful too.


----------



## akirk

kinverkid said:


> I just finished these plant pot stands for presents. The three from the left are of a mystery wood reclaimed from a neighbours garden table and the far right is reclaimed Sapele window frame and is slightly thicker than the others as it was the prototype. They are 550mm high and take a 220mm pot.
> 
> View attachment 123764



They look fantastic - do you have any other photos showing how they are made?


----------



## Grantx

Walnut resin table


----------



## kinverkid

akirk said:


> They look fantastic - do you have any other photos showing how they are made?


This is my original sketch which I only changed slightly once we found a source for the pots (Wilko). I was going to dovetail the cross-members into the legs but went for mechanical fixing (screw) wood plug. Stained with Natural Mahogany spirit stain and finished with spray lacquer.


----------



## Lazurus

What resin do you use for a deep pour like this please?


----------



## Grantx

Lazurus said:


> What resin do you use for a deep pour like this please?


I did it in 4 separate pours as the resin I use is max 1cm. Dipoxy 2k-700. German brand. Excellent stuff.


----------



## Original-Oddball

Grantx said:


> Walnut resin table


Looking good  
This kind of project is on my bucket list


----------



## TomW

First time doing any kind of weaving, oak piano bench with Danish cord.
It's very tall atm as I've left it high to cut down to the right height in situ.

All mortise and tenon and had to put a cross beam in the seat half way through weaving as I think I'd forgotten about physics till I noticed the front and back cross bars bending a significant amount!

Arnie modelling


----------



## Padster

So this years making of Christmas pressies has started, here is a cantilever sewing box made from Zebrano wood chosen by my wife, for her pressie - she knows as she chose the wood, but the design per se is mine and she doesn't get to see it till Christmas Day.


















Regards

Padster


----------



## Orraloon

kinverkid said:


> Also, had a bit of cherry rescued from the firewood pile a couple of years back. Downloaded the PDF plans for a 'Fish Head' marking gauge from Rex Kruegers site. A nice, quick and easy project. Useful too.
> 
> View attachment 123767


Always good to have another gauge. The firewood pile can often be a good place to get wood for small projects.
Regards
John


----------



## TRITON

FlatlandsF7a said:


> Hi all, newbie here. First homemade tool, following the great Paul Sellers' instructions (although modified as I could only get 12mm steel). I'm very pleased, and it even cuts well! (excuse the state of the workshop....)
> View attachment 123131


I have to ask as i can see theres a fair length of unsupported blade, but is there any chattering ?


----------



## FlatlandsF7a

TRITON said:


> I have to ask as i can see theres a fair length of unsupported blade, but is there any chattering ?



The blade is actually supported almost all the way to the bed of the plane. As the iron is 12mm square section, it goes quite 'deep' into the body, and is recessed next to the hole (I'm sure there's a technical term, but I don't know it!). I think the bottom of the cutter is actually only 15 degrees or so off parallel to the sole, so the cutting edge has a lot of support behind it.

I've not had any chattering so far, but only really been using it for test cuts. This was my second version, as I messed up the angles on the first one and it kind of 'pivoted' deeper when it caught. So far this one has been rock solid, and I'd recommend the design at the moment, but only time will tell!


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Toy box in Oak, paint 'n' ply


----------



## Alun Caerdydd

Blackteaonesugar - Beautiful work.


----------



## danst96

blackteaonesugar said:


> Toy box in Oak, paint 'n' ply
> 
> View attachment 123832
> 
> View attachment 123833
> 
> View attachment 123834


That's very very nice


----------



## Jameshow

blackteaonesugar said:


> Toy box in Oak, paint 'n' ply
> 
> View attachment 123832
> 
> View attachment 123833
> 
> View attachment 123834


I like that a perfect idea for my recent stash of oak flooring! 

Cheers James


----------



## clogs

not quite making ....Yet.....but
getting started on making /building my new w/shop.....
have few of these in the way....and there are at least 2 off more than twice this size...hahahaha
drag em out with chains....
her indoors want a new rockery anyway......ps thats a 2.5 ton capacity fork lift...








good weekend to all........I know what I'm doing......lol......


----------



## Doug71

Finished this off today.






It's to go over a small consumer unit in a room I panelled out. Doesn't look much now but the customer is going to be distressing it and painting the glass so it looks like an old butlers bell box.














I love messing about with quirky little jobs like this, doesn't feel like work.


----------



## mikej460

clogs said:


> not quite making ....Yet.....but
> getting started on making /building my new w/shop.....
> have few of these in the way....and there are at least 2 off more than twice this size...hahahaha
> drag em out with chains....
> her indoors want a new rockery anyway......ps thats a 2.5 ton capacity fork lift...
> View attachment 123853
> 
> View attachment 123852
> 
> good weekend to all........I know what I'm doing......lol......


well that's different! Start a new thread on your build and keep the pics coming


----------



## TRITON

blackteaonesugar said:


> Toy box in Oak, paint 'n' ply
> 
> View attachment 123832
> 
> View attachment 123833
> 
> View attachment 123834


Lovely toy box. I like the anti finger jam cut outs,
But what are the U shaped bits on the dividers ?


----------



## Cooper

I've made a few of these figures before, to decorate bookends and a clock for my grandchildren. However I'm posting these pictures as I managed to make them without needing to use screws or pins and the heads and limbs of the bear and monkey can move, as I've joined them with 3D printed trapped ball joints. Sketchup view shows the form. If anyone is interested I'd be happy to share the STL file.


----------



## Baball

Just some drawers for our kids' craft stuff, but the first complete piece of furniture I've made:




This was before the base was fitted:



The base prior to fitting to the drawers


----------



## akirk

TRITON said:


> Lovely toy box. I like the anti finger jam cut outs,
> But what are the U shaped bits on the dividers ?


Bottles of wine?!


----------



## TRITON

akirk said:


> Bottles of wine?!


It's a toybox. 

Mind you, some folk start them early.


----------



## clogs

my daughter bought her epoxy from Germany for her new coffee table......
got a horrible surprise from Customs ......
She bought it from eBay UK.....thinking the price covered all duties.....

Is there somewhere in the UK that sells the stuff, after all there's lots of glass fibre boats about.....


----------



## Phil Pascoe

__





CFS Fibreglass Supplies


UK online ordering for glass fibre, GRP, West System epoxy resin, gelcoat and polyester resins. Nationwide delivery, any quantities large or small



www.cfsnet.co.uk





for one.


----------



## Jameshow

Buy Epoxy Online | Fast Delivery from the UKs Favourite ECF


Epoxy Resins are used in applications where superior strength, durability, and chemical resistance are needed. Below is a range of Epoxy Resins we sell at East Coast Fibreglass, from WEST SYSTEM, MAS Epoxy, Sika, Sicomin, and our own General purpose laminating Epoxy ,Infusion Epoxy and Clear...



www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk





These guys have been around along time. 

West is the best but pricey.

Cheers James


----------



## Henniep

blackteaonesugar said:


> Toy box in Oak, paint 'n' ply
> 
> View attachment 123832
> 
> View attachment 123833
> 
> View attachment 123834


Beautiful. Like the design, functional and very attractive. Nice work mate!


----------



## Smike

Stigmorgan said:


> No worries, I think as long as its 100% walnut oil it doesn't matter if its sold for cooking, in fact that's what makes it ideal as a foodsafe finish





FlatlandsF7a said:


> Hi all, newbie here. First homemade tool, following the great Paul Sellers' instructions (although modified as I could only get 12mm steel). I'm very pleased, and it even cuts well! (excuse the state of the workshop....)
> View attachment 123131


Looks great. I’m a follower of Paul Sellers too. Going make one of these next year


----------



## Stigmorgan

So today when I went out to my makerspace all I really knew was that I wanted to turn a piece of Iroko (pretty sure that's what it is) that I rescued from a pallet, I find it to be a pretty nice wood to turn and sands very easily so finishing it doesn't take long at all, the piece was roughly 200x100x100mm and I just started cutting, next thing I know I've got a Christmas tree on a round base, I friction polished with clear furniture wax and it was done, start to finish this took maybe 90 minutes. The staining from the nails isn't great and it also has a crack running through the height of it on the other side but as a scrap piece I'm pretty happy with it.


----------



## Corset

Not very exciting but made this wall and shelf unit in english cherry and some maple mdf back panels. Took a while but i am fairly happy. The 41/2 metre worktop was challenging to make


----------



## Cabinetman

Corset said:


> Not very exciting but made this wall and shelf unit in english cherry and some maple mdf back panels. Took a while but i am fairly happy. The 41/2 metre worktop was challenging to make


You are too self deprecating, that is really good, quite American in style, love the black strings, were they dyed or is it black timber? Ian


----------



## Jones

clogs said:


> my daughter bought her epoxy from Germany for her new coffee table......
> got a horrible surprise from Customs ......
> She bought it from eBay UK.....thinking the price covered all duties.....
> 
> Is there somewhere in the UK that sells the stuff, after all there's lots of glass fibre boats about.....


East coast fiberglass


----------



## Corset

The stringing is back dyed cherry/sycamore. I was trying to go for a more elegant trim than just rounding over


----------



## Stigmorgan

Corset said:


> Not very exciting but made this wall and shelf unit in english cherry and some maple mdf back panels. Took a while but i am fairly happy. The 41/2 metre worktop was challenging to make


Very very nice  love those two stools too.


----------



## Mike.R

A kitchen, first coat of paint, worksurfaces arriving next week.


----------



## akirk

TRITON said:


> It's a toybox.
> 
> Mind you, some folk start them early.


need to lay down the port young


----------



## KevinLycett

Baball said:


> Just some drawers for our kids' craft stuff, but the first complete piece of furniture I've made:
> 
> View attachment 123935
> 
> 
> This was before the base was fitted:
> View attachment 123936
> 
> 
> The base prior to fitting to the drawers
> View attachment 123937


Lovely base


----------



## Baball

KevinLycett said:


> Lovely base



Thanks Kevin. It was the first time using hardwood and I was quite pleased with the results, although without any hand tools or a planer some of the joints aren't as tight I'd like (the photo strategically conceals them ).


----------



## Droogs

Spent the weekend making these wall cabinets from scrap bits of MDF, pine, ply and oak. Needed to rejig my tool storage for less clutter,about halfway done. Just started on fitting maple lipping and spent 7 hours working out how to make a parallelagram under cabinet drawer that tilts towards you for easy access to the contents. Pretty chuffed at how it is working out so far. Pity the walls are as straight as a chicane and have stupid angle like 67 degree corners


----------



## baldkev

clogs said:


> my daughter bought her epoxy from Germany for her new coffee table......
> got a horrible surprise from Customs ......
> She bought it from eBay UK.....thinking the price covered all duties.....
> 
> Is there somewhere in the UK that sells the stuff, after all there's lots of glass fibre boats about.....



Epodex and glasscast are popular. I preferred the epodex.
I also used multiple pours.... a shallow first pour shows where the leaks are  to be fair, it was a first attempt


----------



## Droogs

clogs said:


> my daughter bought her epoxy from Germany for her new coffee table......
> got a horrible surprise from Customs ......
> She bought it from eBay UK.....thinking the price covered all duties.....
> 
> Is there somewhere in the UK that sells the stuff, after all there's lots of glass fibre boats about.....


I use these chaps






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www.easycomposites.co.uk


----------



## blackteaonesugar

TRITON said:


> Lovely toy box. I like the anti finger jam cut outs,
> But what are the U shaped bits on the dividers ?



They're just so you can get a purchase on stuff like crayons or paint brushes or whatever other small stuff gets shoved in the tray


----------



## TRITON

Jameshow said:


> Buy Epoxy Online | Fast Delivery from the UKs Favourite ECF
> 
> 
> Epoxy Resins are used in applications where superior strength, durability, and chemical resistance are needed. Below is a range of Epoxy Resins we sell at East Coast Fibreglass, from WEST SYSTEM, MAS Epoxy, Sika, Sicomin, and our own General purpose laminating Epoxy ,Infusion Epoxy and Clear...
> 
> 
> 
> www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These guys have been around along time.
> 
> West is the best but pricey.
> 
> Cheers James


I'm a bit of a fan of those syringe epoxy kits you get from the £pound shop. Was in the town getting some xmas shopping and ,as theres no shop near me took to opportunity and bought 10. They are very handy for small jobs and so easy to mix. 
Of all the glues available for home use, they're about the best as they work really well and set really quickly.


----------



## DavidConnelly

Did a hammer forging course in Edinburgh. Great fun.


----------



## clogs

Mike R
thats a stunning job.....I wont ask how long it took......
I'd love that for my house......truly....
only prob our place gets rented out in the summer (we live in a big caravan) and it would get trashed or the finish would......
we're putting a new kitchen this winter and expect to replace it in 5 years......!!
but this time we'll use a Granite worktop, heavy on glasses but the renters can't burn or ruin it....
I hope.....lol


----------



## kinverkid

I've made a couple of these clocks in the past. This one is for my niece and husbands new garden bar. It's around 350mm across and the frame is a segmented turning sprayed black.


----------



## kinverkid

Another Rex Krueger gauge in firewood cherry. This is a Japanese cutting gauge and the blade is a bit of industrial bandsaw blade. Made it between coats of paint on the above clock.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Got carried away today and made 2 more Iroko pallet block Xmas trees and a little cherry bowl.


----------



## Lons

Novelty bandsaw box for my 8 year old granddaughter, my first attempt at a bandsaw box and I made a few mistakes but a learning curve and little Alice can't see them and loves it, her little face lit up when I gave it this evening  hopefully something else to treasure when I'm deed and gorn, not that I'm planning to do that any time soon. Stands about 250 x 125 x 150mm


----------



## Droogs

DavidConnelly said:


> Did a hammer forging course in Edinburgh. Great fun.


Nice one, did you make the hammer  or learn how to use it on the anvil and who does the course ?


----------



## DavidConnelly

Droogs said:


> Nice one, did you make the hammer  or learn how to use it on the anvil and who does the course ?


Made it. It was an all day thing very enjoyable


----------



## m.webb63

I went on a turning weekend and made a stool/plant stand. Pretty pleased with it for a first attempt. Looking forward to getting my lathe set up


----------



## Jameshow

m.webb63 said:


> I went on a turning weekend and made a stool/plant stand. Pretty pleased with it for a first attempt. Looking forward to getting my lathe set up


What lathe have you got?


----------



## Blister

Lons said:


> Novelty bandsaw box for my 8 year old granddaughter, my first attempt at a bandsaw box and I made a few mistakes but a learning curve and little Alice can't see them and loves it, her little face lit up when I gave it this evening  hopefully something else to treasure when I'm deed and gorn, not that I'm planning to do that any time soon. Stands about 250 x 125 x 150mm
> 
> View attachment 124084
> View attachment 124085
> View attachment 124086


I can see why she was happy , Lovely gift for the young one , Looks good


----------



## m.webb63

Jameshow said:


> What lathe have you got?


I've got a Record Model 0 that I got from here


----------



## Cooper

kinverkid said:


> Another Rex Krueger gauge in firewood cherry. This is a Japanese cutting gauge and the blade is a bit of industrial bandsaw blade. Made it between coats of paint on the above clock.


This is really nice but how is the blade set to stay at the same depth? Isn't there a risk of any pressure pushing the blade back? My old cutting gauge has a little brass wedge that is used to hold the blade.


----------



## Cooper

Lons said:


> Novelty bandsaw box for my 8 year old granddaughter, my first attempt at a bandsaw box and I made a few mistakes but a learning curve and little Alice can't see them and loves it, her little face lit up when I gave it this evening  hopefully something else to treasure when I'm deed and gorn, not that I'm planning to do that any time soon. Stands about 250 x 125 x 150mm
> 
> You've done a fantastic job especially hiding the entry cuts for holes and drawers. Did you have any difficulty gluing it back together? Did you glue it back before you shaped the outside?


Martin


----------



## RichardG

I have loads of Ash which isn't the most interesting of wood but by carefully selecting the crotch of the tree and other intersections it's possible to get some wonderful grain. Absolute pig to turn though with all the grain running in different directions, really shows up my poor tool presentation.

One bowl had a fault which I recovered by soaking in cyanoacrylate but still cracked.








Bowl 2










I must get a better way of taking photos, colours are all over the place....


----------



## Lons

Cooper said:


> Did you have any difficulty gluing it back together? Did you glue it back before you shaped the outside?
> Martin



The cuts were one of my mistakes Martin as I failed to follow the grain and it stands out a mile to me. I used a 6mm coarse blade because that's what I had but a narrower/finer blade would possibly have been better and if I was making a small box I might try the scrollsaw instead. I don't know as it was my first attempt. 
I cut the back off when still a block then shaped the body before cutting out the drawers, glued the body together to close the cuts then once the drawer apertures were sanded I glued the back on and shaped that to fit the body. I used Titebond for all the gluing and a couple of coats of acrylic varnish to seal then waxed for a finish. 
The dark wood is mahogany, I don't know the light wood as it's out of my scrap bin but it was damned hard and the drawer pulls, eye sockets and beak are rosewood, I originally turned some eyes but wasn't happy so these plastic ones are from Amazon at 3 pairs for a fiver and they appear to follow you as you move so are pretty good.


----------



## kinverkid

Cooper said:


> This is really nice but how is the blade set to stay at the same depth? Isn't there a risk of any pressure pushing the blade back? My old cutting gauge has a little brass wedge that is used to hold the blade.


So far it's jammed in there. It took some doing to get it in there so at the moment it's not going anywhere. If, in the future, it does become loose then I'll either put a threaded insert in and a knurled screw or re-make the arm with a wedge too.


----------



## Stigmorgan

RichardG said:


> I have loads of Ash which isn't the most interesting of wood but by carefully selecting the crotch of the tree and other intersections it's possible to get some wonderful grain. Absolute pig to turn though with all the grain running in different directions, really shows up my poor tool presentation.
> 
> One bowl had a fault which I recovered by soaking in cyanoacrylate but still cracked.
> View attachment 124102
> View attachment 124103
> 
> 
> Bowl 2
> 
> View attachment 124107
> 
> View attachment 124104
> 
> 
> I must get a better way of taking photos, colours are all over the place....


Those are beautiful  my tool presentation isn't great yet either, I do a lot of sanding


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Got it ready just in time!! My second ever chopping board. Made of London Plane. For my cousin’s wedding this weekend, but i cant make it there, so having to post it meant i went a little overboard with the packaging!! I used Kaizan foam for the packaging. Also had a little play on the vinyl cutter for the label too. And i made my own ‘chopping board butter’ replenishing wax with beeswax, carnauba wax and mineral oil (all food grade ingredients). I also made the outer box out of scraps i had laying around. Fingers crossed it gets to it’s destination in one piece


----------



## RichardG

Stigmorgan said:


> Those are beautiful  my tool presentation isn't great yet either, I do a lot of sanding


Thanks, the scraper is my weapon on choice, I'm going to have to go on a course as I just don't seem able to get a smooth surface straight from the bowl gouge, especially on the inside. It us getting better but very slowly....and I agree thank goodness for 80 grit paper.


----------



## Sheptonphil

A little play on the lathe, a 1/12 scale model of an 18th century British 24lb naval canon. Found original full size blueprints online and scaled them down. All oak inc barrel, with metalwork handmade from various bits lying around the workshop. Just got the rope to make to finish off the detail. 

Finished model has 290mm long barrel.


----------



## Stigmorgan

So today I'd planned to make some smaller Xmas trees with a few scraps of pine 2x2 left over from some work we had done a while ago, twice the trees fell apart as I turned them so all the 2x2 is now on the fire pit pile, after getting very frustrated I put a piece of oak on the worm screw and went to it, I had originally planned to have the traditional layers but once I had removed the bulk I really liked the grain figure so just cleaned it up and hit with wax. Probably took half hour start to finish.


----------



## Jameshow

Sheptonphil said:


> A little play on the lathe, a 1/12 scale model of an 18th century British 24lb naval canon. Found original full size blueprints online and scaled them down. All oak inc barrel, with metalwork handmade from various bits lying around the workshop. Just got the rope to make to finish off the detail.
> 
> Finished model has 290mm long barrel.
> 
> View attachment 124204


Have you fired it!


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> So today I'd planned to make some smaller Xmas trees with a few scraps of pine 2x2 left over from some work we had done a while ago, twice the trees fell apart as I turned them so all the 2x2 is now on the fire pit pile, after getting very frustrated I put a piece of oak on the worm screw and went to it, I had originally planned to have the traditional layers but once I had removed the bulk I really liked the grain figure so just cleaned it up and hit with wax. Probably took half hour start to finish.
> View attachment 124214
> View attachment 124215
> View attachment 124216


Really nice - your showing up my lack of time on the lathe!!


----------



## Sheptonphil

Jameshow said:


> Have you fired it!


I do have explosives licence for my black powder firearms, but thought it would probably blow it to splinters. Now, do I make another barrel just to try it at the range? Nah, not worth losing the licence for.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> Really nice - your showing up my lack of time on the lathe!!


I finish work at 12 so most days I spend a few hours in my maker space


----------



## Phil Pascoe

What time do you start? I found a booklet on the history of my junior school, and the caretaker's first job in the morning was to light the twenty two stoves.


----------



## Phil63

That looks amazing


Lons said:


> Novelty bandsaw box for my 8 year old granddaughter, my first attempt at a bandsaw box and I made a few mistakes but a learning curve and little Alice can't see them and loves it, her little face lit up when I gave it this evening  hopefully something else to treasure when I'm deed and gorn, not that I'm planning to do that any time soon. Stands about 250 x 125 x 150mm
> 
> View attachment 124084
> View attachment 124085
> View attachment 124086


 that looks amazing!! That's definitely going to be my next project


----------



## Stigmorgan

Phil Pascoe said:


> What time do you start? I found a booklet on the history of my junior school, and the caretaker's first job in the morning was to light the twenty two stoves.


I start at 7am work till 12 then back at 5.30 for an hour to check on the cleaners and lock up


----------



## mikej460

In the 60s our primary school caretaker was called Skip, he was a great bloke and very popular. He used to light a coke boiler every morning and stoke it through the day. One 'punishment' was to help him stoke it during playtime which was great fun - different times...


----------



## Stigmorgan

So I've had a great day today, took a dozen of my creations into school for the staff to buy and sold all but 4 of them by lunch, the headteacher bought the conical oak Xmas tree and asked if I could make two more smaller ones to go with it so it would be a set of 3 different sizes so this afternoon I did just that, I forgot to take pics but she has just sent me a picture of them in place.






I made 2 more but not overly happy with them so won't be selling them, I gave them to the other half instead





Also made a bowl from some very checked silver birch as a birthday present for one of the teachers, I filled the cracks with glue before sanding and finishing, I decided to experiment a little with the finish and mixed a little walnut oil with an equal part furniture wax and I have to say I quite like the look, almost a satin sheen that smooth to touch.




Your browser is not able to display this video.


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

Stigmorgan said:


> Also made a bowl from some very checked silver birch as a birthday present for one of the teachers,


Oh! Who's trying to be teachers pet then?


----------



## Stigmorgan

MorrisWoodman12 said:


> Oh! Who's trying to be teachers pet then?


Me  always. Happy teachers = happy life for me


----------



## paulrbarnard

Just finished the wifes Christmas present. It will get filled up with ferero rocher for the day. It's basically a Paul Sellars desk tidy box. I made one last year for my daughter and my wife decided she wanted one too. However then the special requests came along. It had to be a light wood, so that would be maple then. It had to have those little tiny dovetails. I didn't want it to be too bland so snagged a bit of birds eye from johnnyb. The birdseye was a bit soft so i hardened the nasty bits with super glue. The birdseye is finished with water based laquer and rubbed out to a glass finish. The plain, it's actually got a nice bit of figure, maple is finished with danish oil. 100% hand tool including deminsioning the timber.


----------



## Stigmorgan

@paulrbarnard that's beautiful. I only just started the other half present today and to be honest it's scaring the [email protected] out of me at the minute, I mounted it between centres then had to use a small plane to remove some high spots, then on my lowest speed (450) I had to chase the lathe around the garage while I rounded it off, it bounced so much that even now with it "rounded" it still wobbles isn't perfectly round to the centres.


----------



## paulrbarnard

Stigmorgan said:


> @paulrbarnard that's beautiful. I only just started the other half present today and to be honest it's scaring the [email protected] out of me at the minute, I mounted it between centres then had to use a small plane to remove some high spots, then on my lowest speed (450) I had to chase the lathe around the garage while I rounded it off, it bounced so much that even now with it "rounded" it still wobbles isn't perfectly round to the centres.
> View attachment 124347
> View attachment 124348
> View attachment 124349
> View attachment 124350
> View attachment 124351
> View attachment 124352
> View attachment 124353
> View attachment 124354
> View attachment 124355
> View attachment 124356


You use a plane to take off the high spots? I might give that a go. I’m trying to turn some cherry disks but only have a metal working lathe and the rough size of the disks is bigger than the cross slide can deal with. Knocking a bit off with a plane would let me get at it with a lathe tool.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Stig, if you use out of balance stuff (that's probably a bit larger than the the lathe was designed for  ) it's not a bad idea to counterbore the centre mounts a little - the piece can't fly off then.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

paulrbarnard said:


> You use a plane to take off the high spots? I might give that a go. I’m trying to turn some cherry disks but only have a metal working lathe and the rough size of the disks is bigger than the cross slide can deal with. Knocking a bit off with a plane would let me get at it with a lathe tool.


A good excuse for an electric chain saw.


----------



## MARK.B.

Lovely box Paul that top is a great looking piece of timber and the finish is rather nice to, the draw pull adds a real quality to the finished piece


----------



## Stigmorgan

Phil Pascoe said:


> A good excuse for an electric chain saw.


I have a chainsaw but I don't have enough room to safely use it in the workspace, could have used my electric plane but it was in the schools boiler room with most of my other power tools and I couldn't be bothered to go get it


----------



## Stigmorgan

Phil Pascoe said:


> Stig, if you use out of balance stuff (that's probably a bit larger than the the lathe was designed for  ) it's not a bad idea to counterbore the centre mounts a little - the piece can't fly off then.


I made sure the drive and live centres were very well sunk into the wood, I was more concerned the wood might explode from the centrifugal forces, the wood has been outside for almost 3 years and spent the last 6 months in my boiler room drying out, there's virtually no moisture left in it so I was very surprised to see the lathe run across the floor when I turned it on.


----------



## Orraloon

Stigmorgan said:


> @paulrbarnard that's beautiful. I only just started the other half present today and to be honest it's scaring the [email protected] out of me at the minute, I mounted it between centres then had to use a small plane to remove some high spots, then on my lowest speed (450) I had to chase the lathe around the garage while I rounded it off, it bounced so much that even now with it "rounded" it still wobbles isn't perfectly round to the centres.
> View attachment 124347
> View attachment 124348
> View attachment 124349
> View attachment 124350
> View attachment 124351
> View attachment 124352
> View attachment 124353
> View attachment 124354
> View attachment 124355
> View attachment 124356


Thats about as ambitious as you can get on that lathe. The stand is a bit light so likely not helping either. I also sometimes resort to an electric plane to take off the high spots on out of balance blanks. For those wanting to try this its with the lathe stopped. Skim some off, spin up and if still too much bounce stop, identify heavy point and repeat. The heavy point rotates to the bottom if you take the belt tension off. Easy to do on those lathes where the weight of the motor supplies the tension.
Regards
John


----------



## Stigmorgan

Orraloon said:


> Thats about as ambitious as you can get on that lathe. The stand is a bit light so likely not helping either. I also sometimes resort to an electric plane to take off the high spots on out of balance blanks. For those wanting to try this its with the lathe stopped. Skim some off, spin up and if still too much bounce stop, identify heavy point and repeat. The heavy point rotates to the bottom if you take the belt tension off. Easy to do on those lathes where the weight of the motor supplies the tension.
> Regards
> John


Definately at the limits of the lathe, even now I can't get the tool rest under the piece which is a PITA but if I reduce it down to get the rest under it I will have to drastically reduce the length too or the whole thing will look out of proportion. I'll get it there just gonna be a slow process. Need to get some more shaping done then a good amount of hardener on it to get my final cuts done.


----------



## Adam W.

Stigmorgan said:


> @paulrbarnard that's beautiful. I only just started the other half present today and to be honest it's scaring the [email protected] out of me at the minute, I mounted it between centres then had to use a small plane to remove some high spots, then on my lowest speed (450) I had to chase the lathe around the garage while I rounded it off, it bounced so much that even now with it "rounded" it still wobbles isn't perfectly round to the centres.
> View attachment 124347
> View attachment 124348
> View attachment 124349
> View attachment 124350
> View attachment 124351
> View attachment 124352
> View attachment 124353
> View attachment 124354
> View attachment 124355
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More wood than lathe................I love it.


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## Stigmorgan

Adam W. said:


> More wood than lathe................I love it.


Go big or go home  there's still every chance it could fly apart, there's a lot of cracks running the length of it that go very deep, once shaped I'll throw som resin in to help hold it together.


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## pulleyt

This year's Christmas presents for the family

These build on the prototype pot-pourri style box I made last September, For these I have embellished the kumiko lids with more detail. The boxes are made from beech offcuts with maple lining. The kumiko is also cut from maple.







A couple of photos from the journey


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## Stigmorgan

pulleyt said:


> This year's Christmas presents for the family
> 
> These build on the prototype pot-pourri style box I made last September, For these I have embellished the kumiko lids with more detail. The boxes are made from beech offcuts with maple lining. The kumiko is also cut from maple.
> 
> View attachment 124432
> 
> 
> A couple of photos from the journey
> 
> View attachment 124433
> 
> 
> View attachment 124434


Wow those are stunning, bet it takes some serious patience to put all those little pieces together.


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## Lefley

Made a box for my paint store manager that always gives me lovely deals and fast service.


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## Cooper

As Stigmorgan is posting pictures of logs I thought I'd join in. I was given a few Yew logs some time ago and I thought they would have dried out enough to use for Christmas presents. However the logs were much wetter than I expected and turning them was like unwrapping hot spaghetti. 
I wanted to show the contrasting colours of the grain on a pot with a lid I was making but realised that none of the heart wood would show so I gave it a stem which makes it a bit urn like, rather morbid. I went in just over 10cm which was quite difficult with such a tight space to work inside. 
I decided that candle sticks would show up the colours better. I've had to cook the pieces in the microwave to get them dry enough to put some wax on.


----------



## thetyreman

pulleyt said:


> This year's Christmas presents for the family
> 
> These build on the prototype pot-pourri style box I made last September, For these I have embellished the kumiko lids with more detail. The boxes are made from beech offcuts with maple lining. The kumiko is also cut from maple.
> 
> View attachment 124432
> 
> 
> A couple of photos from the journey
> 
> View attachment 124433
> 
> 
> View attachment 124434



superb!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Cooper said:


> As Stigmorgan is posting pictures of logs I thought I'd join in. I was given a few Yew logs some time ago and I thought they would have dried out enough to use for Christmas presents. However the logs were much wetter than I expected and turning them was like unwrapping hot spaghetti.
> I wanted to show the contrasting colours of the grain on a pot with a lid I was making but realised that none of the heart wood would show so I gave it a stem which makes it a bit urn like, rather morbid. I went in just over 10cm which was quite difficult with such a tight space to work inside.
> I decided that candle sticks would show up the colours better. I've had to cook the pieces in the microwave to get them dry enough to put some wax on.
> View attachment 124509
> View attachment 124511
> View attachment 124512
> View attachment 124516


Those are gorgeous . 
My sycamore log combined with what I'm sure is failing bearings are kicking the [email protected] out of me, got it as close to shape as I could, could only turn at slowest speed without it bouncing all over the place as long as I only took light scraping cuts which still left a huge amount of tear out, ive spent 7 hours working on it today and about 4 of those are sanding at 60grit to fine tune the shape and remove the tear out. I now have it to a shape I'm happy with and I've filled all cracks and a few bug holes with a 3d pearlescent stuff I bought at poundland yesterday, it sets like a resin, so far doesn't seem to soak into the wood so should sand back quite nicely.




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## Phil Pascoe

... combined with what I'm sure is failing bearings ...

Probably not. The lathe isn't designed for stuff that size.


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## Stigmorgan

It's big but there's very little weight in it and it's a lot smaller than when I started, there's easily an inch and a half between the piece and the bed, the wobble is only out at the end and I can feel the back bearing pulsing as it spins, a few of my smaller pieces have had tool marks opposite eachother as if the piece was slightly oval, I had assumed it was down to the wood distorting during turning but now I'm not sure, I think I'm going to replace the bearings regardless, at least then I will know for sure.


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## kinverkid

If you've not changed the bearings on the DML 24 before, there's an excellent post on The Ultimate Handyman where a member called Retired shows the machine stripped down and how he changed the bearings with plenty of photographs along the way.

Gary


----------



## clogs

Lefly
that pot is lovly.....can I ask how u got the gree colour....
was it just stain.....?

Stigmorgan,
was there a vid at the bottom of ur last post...got the arrow but no vid.....
just interested....

Plus as it's Xmas, anyone made any of those hollow tree novelties as in Fine Woodwrking....?


----------



## bourbon

lathe work again, I'm still trying to get my finishing right.


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## Stigmorgan

clogs said:


> Lefly
> that pot is lovly.....can I ask how u got the gree colour....
> was it just stain.....?
> 
> Stigmorgan,
> was there a vid at the bottom of ur last post...got the arrow but no vid.....
> just interested....
> 
> Plus as it's Xmas, anyone made any of those hollow tree novelties as in Fine Woodwrking....?


The video is there for me, not sure why you can't play it, it's only 15seconds long


----------



## Lefley

clogs said:


> Lefly
> that pot is lovly.....can I ask how u got the gree colour....
> was it just stain.....?
> 
> Stigmorgan,
> was there a vid at the bottom of ur last post...got the arrow but no vid.....
> just interested....
> 
> Plus as it's Xmas, anyone made any of those hollow tree novelties as in Fine Woodwrking....?


The color is achieved by coloured resin. I put the block of maple in a vacuum chamber with the color or colors of resin poured in. I weight the wood down so under resin. Then pull a vacuum which sucks all air outta wood. When bubbles slow down turn off vacuum and release lid. Resin replaces air in wood. I then bake at 200f to activate resin. Then I turn it. The softer parts take more resin while the harder parts less or none . This is a box I did for the fireman’s ball as a donation. It was done with two colors to try and create flames,


----------



## paulrbarnard

Lefley said:


> The color is achieved by coloured resin. I put the block of maple in a vacuum chamber with the color or colors of resin poured in. I weight the wood down so under resin. Then pull a vacuum which sucks all air outta wood. When bubbles slow down turn off vacuum and release lid. Resin replaces air in wood. I then bake at 200f to activate resin. Then I turn it. The softer parts take more resin while the harder parts less or none . This is a box I did for the fireman’s ball as a donation. It was done with two colors to try and create flames, View attachment 124598


Wow very effective!


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## kinverkid

That is really nice Lefley. I would like to see some close-up shots of the grain/burr too if you have some.

Gary


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## Nelly111s

Just made a bookcase for a Catholic School who wanted the inscribed top and waney edge sides "to make it look like it was coming out of a tree". 3 shelves were mortice and tenon, the rest housing joints. Made from solid olive wood to the customer's spec. A couple of "in work" photos too.


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## Stigmorgan

Took most of today but I got the outside finished, hollowed out as much as I could with is a disappointing 4 inches but I was getting more catches than cuts. Having started the hollowing I can now really see how bad the wobble is, one section of the rim is 5mm while the opposite side is 10mm. Something really isn't right and I can think of 3 possible reasons, 
Headstock bearings (I can feel a "pulse" in the back one)
Tailstock live centre bearings (cheap from amazon)
The stand /floor isn't level
So I'm going g to be ordering new bearings in the new year when I'm back from holiday, while on holiday I'll be visiting Yandles and plan to pick up a couple of new live centres and I'm considering removing the stand and bolting the lathe to the cabinet worktop and try find somewhere else for everything stored there





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## MARK.B.

Lovely bookcase Neil , that Olive wood looks stunning, several years ago I foolishly turned down a transit van full of olive wood that was destined for the fire all cut from a olive grove in Spain to make way for tennis courts the van was coming back to the UK empty but the offer would have meant traveling a fair way to collect it , sadly I was too busy at time


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## Nelly111s

MARK.B. said:


> Lovely bookcase Neil , that Olive wood looks stunning, several years ago I foolishly turned down a transit van full of olive wood that was destined for the fire all cut from a olive grove in Spain to make way for tennis courts the van was coming back to the UK empty but the offer would have meant traveling a fair way to collect it , sadly I was too busy at time


Thanks Mark.
I wish I could find a few empty transits coming back from Italy. The carriage costs are getting very pricy.


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## Original-Oddball

Probably like you, I have a collection of small offcuts that are too good to throw away but too small for anything immediately.
Being lucky enough to own a a lathe I had a little play and came up with these little beauties which are functional as well as quick and could be a nice little earner if you are into that.
These are Oak finished with Danish oil.
the top two are of a garlic keep.


----------



## Gnarly customs

aluminium goal posts for local kids all weather pitches this was me making sure it will go out the door


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## Grantx

Very nice. End grain board too! How did you shape the Kaizan foam to perfectly fit the curved mineral oil bottle? 



Sawdust=manglitter said:


> used Kaizan foam


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## clogs

Stigmorgan....
again got the arrow but no picture.....must be something to do with Apple....oh well....


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## blackteaonesugar

pulleyt said:


> This year's Christmas presents for the family.



Those are amazing


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## Stigmorgan

clogs said:


> Stigmorgan....
> again got the arrow but no picture.....must be something to do with Apple....oh well....


Ahh most probably, I used my Samsung phone, apple and android don't like each other.


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## Sawdust=manglitter

Grantx said:


> Very nice. End grain board too! How did you shape the Kaizan foam to perfectly fit the curved mineral oil bottle?


Thanks Grantx!

If you’re talking about the bottom of the foam, it’s flat so it’s not curved around the circumference of the bottle. If you’re talking about just cutting out the outline of the shape i just used one of these knives…
Olfa ARSAC-1 Olfa ARSAC-1 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

But if you wanted to curve the foam to match the bottle and you had a bunch to batch out, you could find a metal pipe of a similar diameter and heat it up and just press it to the foam… it melts and seals to the shape


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## gregmcateer

m.webb63 said:


> I went on a turning weekend and made a stool/plant stand. Pretty pleased with it for a first attempt. Looking forward to getting my lathe set up



Nice work.
Where did you go for the lesson?


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## Lefley

Original-Oddball said:


> Probably like you, I have a collection of small offcuts that are too good to throw away but too small for anything immediately.
> Being lucky enough to own a a lathe I had a little play and came up with these little beauties which are functional as well as quick and could be a nice little earner if you are into that.
> These are Oak finished with Danish oil.
> the top two are of a garlic keep.
> View attachment 124639
> View attachment 124640
> View attachment 124641


Not easy to get a nice flowing curve. Well done!


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## rob1693

Penny farthing sculpture

Made this for christmas for my brothers garden


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## clogs

Original -Oddball.....
I like the egg cups.....did u use a dividing head for the embosing......?


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## Padster

So here is the second major pressie, this one for my daughter, she choose Teak and some Sapele but doesn't know what she wanted making, there wasn't going to be enough teak so I got more Sapele as no where local had any affordable teak!
The wood used was all from the same batch and I've not treated any of it differently, the middle shelf also slides in and out...






















Regards

Padster


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## Phil Pascoe

Two pens (Beaufort Ink Tempests), one in london Plane and the other in casein (Conway Stewart blank from Home | The Turners Workshop


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## m.webb63

gregmcateer said:


> Nice work.
> Where did you go for the lesson?


Thanks, it was at the Chippendale School


----------



## martin.pearson

Padster said:


> So here is the second major pressie, this one for my daughter, she choose Teak and some Sapele but doesn't know what she wanted making, there wasn't going to be enough teak so I got more Sapele as no where local had any affordable teak!
> The wood used was all from the same batch and I've not treated any of it differently, the middle shelf also slides in and out...
> 
> View attachment 124720
> 
> View attachment 124721
> 
> View attachment 124722
> 
> View attachment 124723
> 
> View attachment 124724
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster



You need a lot more of holes than that if she is anything like my Daughters lol


----------



## martin.pearson

Phil Pascoe said:


> Two pens (Beaufort Ink Tempests), one in london Plane and the other in casein (Conway Stewart blank from Home | The Turners Workshop
> 
> View attachment 124725


 
I quite new to all this but I had never heard of London Plane until a small amount appeared at the sawmill I buy my wood from, had to buy a piece even though I had no idea what I was going to use it for at the time lol


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## accipiter

martin.pearson said:


> I quite new to all this but I had never heard of London Plane until a small amount appeared at the sawmill I buy my wood from, had to buy a piece even though I had no idea what I was going to use it for at the time lol



35+ years ago I started working for a hardwood timber and craft retail shop where I first came across London Plane timber. I also started wood turning and bought a piece of LP which was 6" square and 4ft in length - - - no idea what I'd do with it. I still have it and I'm now thinking of ripping it in to 6" wide boards to use for boxes or similar.


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## accipiter

I'm tentatively posting some photos of a piece of work that I've just completed. It's from a combination of a small amount of walnut and (possibly?) Birds Eye Maple... but I'm not certain. An additional piece of information is that it has a scent to it when being worked on that reminds me of time at school, many years ago, of sharpening pencils... a "Cedar" smell?? Bought 30+ years ago, intending to use it for a desk. 3 off 1" th x 9" w x 60" & 1 off 72" long boards. 

A "request" from my daughter after telling us in April she was expecting our first grandchild. Made over a period of 7 months because of the small amount of the timber available so little room for waste as no more available... A great deal of "thought time" in that period. Baby Ben born 4 weeks prem. 11th Oct. 2021.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

accipiter said:


> 35+ years ago I started working for a hardwood timber and craft retail shop where I first came across London Plane timber. I also started wood turning and bought a piece of LP which was 6" square and 4ft in length - - - no idea what I'd do with it. I still have it and I'm now thinking of ripping it in to 6" wide boards to use for boxes or similar.


Be careful which way you rip it - it's quite plain (geddit?) if not quarter sawn. I was lucky with my little pieces - they came in as offcuts for the stove, and had quite a bit of burr..


----------



## Padster

martin.pearson said:


> You need a lot more of holes than that if she is anything like my Daughters lol


LOL - so true, but she has lots of little trinkets and nik naks she likes to display, but the middle tray also pulls out and I could put additional holes in that too if she wanted, but I thought I'd give her the option as I can add holes but can't easily remove them


----------



## Adam W.

Yes, London plane can be as dull as dishwater if it's not quatersawn.


----------



## accipiter

Phil Pascoe said:


> Be careful which way you rip it - it's quite plain (geddit?) if not quarter sawn. I was lucky with my little pieces - they came in as offcuts for the stove, and had quite a bit of burr..


Cheers @Phil Pascoe & @Adam W. - when I can get to it I'll take a couple of pictures to post up. From memory I think it's quite quarter sawn... I seem to remember it being quite figured which made it stand out to me.


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## Phil Pascoe

6" x 6" will be better in one direction than the other, unless it came from the bole in a peculiar orientation.


----------



## accipiter

Phil Pascoe said:


> 6" x 6" will be better in one direction than the other, unless it came from the bole in a peculiar orientation.


Thanks. I'll take photos of each face and ask for input before going ahead with cutting.


----------



## RichardG

We have a tradition of exchanging Christmas tree decorations within the family so this year I thought I'd make our own. A simple tree.





turned into a small copse.




And in position on the tree next to Christmas mouse.




I was struggling a bit with the size of my tools, my smallest skew is an inch which wasn't ideal, luckily I do have a smallish spindle gouge...New subject for tomorrow.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

accipiter said:


> Thanks. I'll take photos of each face and ask for input before going ahead with cutting.


 You want to cut at right angles to the annual rings to show the flecking, which might already be visible on one face, in which case you work parallel to that. Easier if you can see the grain on the ends.


----------



## pulleyt

Some last minute stocking fillers inspired by Andy's Cornish Creations and Timothy Chen.






Christmas stockings are about useless nonsense, right?!


----------



## Buckeye

Kitchen TV cabinet. Oak veneered mdf and solid oak top, tulipwood for doors etc


----------



## grumpycorn

It must be Christmas as it's time to bust out a couple of last minute picture frames!

First one is Ash, second one Walnut, both finished with Shellac and wax. Annoyingly I made a mistake on the Ash one that meant I had to use a piece that doesn't match the colour that well. Hopefully the big picture of the grandkids in the frame will distract from it!


----------



## paulrbarnard

Pretty much finished the last of my Christmas presents now.







Despite looking like a simple coaster it is actually a wireless charging station.




The laser engraving is on the bottom so that it leaves a nice clean wood piece on the bedside table.
It's made of Cherry and matches with the watch charging stands I made last year. Watch Stands

I finished up making 5, one for each daughter and one for the wife.








It was a fun little project. I turned the blanks on my mini metal lathe. They were too big for the lathe so I glued the blanks to a bit of metal bar to hold in the chuck then I put a tool in the tool post the wrong way round to get a big enough blank. I turned the disk, holowed it out then milled in the aperture for the micro usb and leds. The wireless charging boards were bought from banggood and I hot glued them into the turned blank. I made sure to create a good seal around the USB port and the LED so that they wouldn't get filled by the epoxy resin. I used a clear casting resin to fill them and then popped them back on the lathe to turn the tops flat. I finaly glued a thin cherry veneer on top. This way I was able to keep the wireless coil within a mm of the top surface to ensure best possible charging.







The bottom one had an accident when getting knocked off the mandrel, I was a little too enthusiastic with the mallet... I used the ruler to hold the charging coil level with the top of the wooden blank as i hot glued it in place. I have a 0.5mm thick packing peice between the ruler and the coil so the coil will be just below the edge.




I made the presentation boxes as well. They were drawn as vectors in Lightburn and cut from 0.5mm thick blue card. They fold up and hold together without any glue.
Here is all 5 waiting to go under the tree. They are all different sizes as I didn't actually measure anything when I sawed out the blanks.


----------



## bourbon

First thing I'm happy with. Sprayed with my cheap 


airbrush


----------



## robgul

Two of our grand-children wanted to go to a 20-20 or Hundred (i.e. white ball) cricket match as a Christmas present - so they had something on the big day I made this:



Have to own up to buying the wooden ball, unpainted, ready made.


----------



## JDW

blackteaonesugar said:


> Toy box in Oak, paint 'n' ply
> 
> View attachment 123832
> 
> View attachment 123833
> 
> View attachment 123834



I really like this, a really elegant design. Did you hand carve the letters?


----------



## Stigmorgan

So, finally after over a week of literally blood sweat and tears I've finished the other half's Christmas present, it drew blood 3 times, snatched the bowl gouge and slapped me round the head with the handle and worst of all it broke the lathe, gotta order new headstock bearings in the new year (or tomorrow when I visit yandles if they can order them) I did notice a little movement in the tailstock, im hoping its the live centre bearings and not the quill that has the issue.
















If she makes one single negative comment about after the hard work I've put in it she will go on the fire pit with it


----------



## blackteaonesugar

JBD007 said:


> I really like this, a really elegant design. Did you hand carve the letters?



Yes, I HANDED it to a man with a cnc machine


----------



## DavidConnelly

Shaving kit.
Zebrano bowl and elm kit


----------



## Original-Oddball

Ultra quick stocking fillers that everyone can't resist a twirl with.
These spinning tops are so simple to turn.
coloured with a sharpie.


----------



## Original-Oddball

A decanter and glass tray made from a mahogany wardrobe that I "liberated" from a skip.
I was asked to make it after someone saw that asymmetric Anglesey bowl I made.
I asked the owner to send a photo but he didn't use the decanter just 4 glasses but you get the idea.
the shape is a representation of the Isle of Anglesey where we live. I used a 1/4 inch (6mm) straight router bit to shape it and painted the edge with black waterbased gloss enamel and varnished it with waterbased polyurethane varnish.
this was the first time I have used this type of varnish and my experiences would be worthy of an article all by itself!
I covered the underneath with Green felt baize which I think adds a little touch.


----------



## D_W

(almost) finished five parers for myself. It's always easy to not finish stuff you're keeping for yourself (the three on the right need to be finish glazed and then bevel ground and sharpened, which is usually before handles). 

The handles are gombeira - a monstrously hard and dense (denser than water) wood. The gloss finish on them is probably 3 drops of 2lb cut shellac (for the three on the right). Those three will turn uniformly dark brown like the others within a month and the color variation is just how deep the oxidation was before turning the handles (the blanks were previously roughed). Weird stuff - a crack with no light exposure will turn brown. light exposure will turn brown- everything seems to make it brown, but never to the center. 







The two left handles are shellac only, but embracing modernity, I started sanding thin CA into the handles with very fine sandpaper, sanding it back and then applying finish. The objective is to get things done fast and not on and off of the lathe, but filling pores with shellac leads to pore shrink later and a cake of shellac and sawdust won't stay put unless the handles are pore filled and then finished the next day. 

Three on the right are just in process and need bolsters ground down and then all of the grinding done after hardening and tempering (everything that looks like a bevel or final thickness is left until after hardening or they'll just turn into bananas when they're hardened). 

Switching back to guitars soon - kind of itching to work more wood, and maybe some planes.


----------



## Louie10

I built this corner cabinet out of white oak for my wife's 50th birthday. I do enjoy working with oak especially with cabinetry. I have been making cabinets for 25years but I have still a huge amount to learn. The cabinet just needs a few coats of danish oil and glass and two handles and it's complete.


----------



## Cooper

A bookend for my granddaughter. The books are just off-cuts with scanned and printed covers.


----------



## Jacob

Christmas table. Drawers on the way (christmas 2022 perhaps)


----------



## baldkev

Jacob said:


> Christmas table. Drawers on the way (christmas 2022 perhaps)
> 
> View attachment 124916



That orange is a bit modern for a castle!


----------



## Cabinetman

And that’s not a pint of Bass! Looks like a few of those have been consumed the way the tops off centre Jacob


----------



## Jacob

Cabinetman said:


> And that’s not a pint of Bass! Looks like a few of those have been consumed the way the tops off centre Jacob


It's the photo! All symmetrical to to the nearest 5mm


----------



## Adam W.

Close enough is good enough!


----------



## robgul

baldkev said:


> That orange is a bit modern for a castle!



What is the orange "finish" ?


----------



## Adam W.

Another little experimental archaeology project. 

A WIP 8" tondo mirror frame......

Turned and carved from green oak about 6 months ago and it's now ready for a little more carving and eventually gilding. I've based this on a 16th. century Florentine tondo mirror and roughed out a guilloché pattern onto the bolection moulding.

I wanted it to warp a little, as the original shows the same distortion, which confirms that it was turned and carved in green wood. I think the moulding and carving has increased the surface area dramatically, which has hepled to even the drying and stop it splitting.












To set out the guilloché motif I had to retain the same number of centres for the beads, but reduce their spacing on the three concentric circles. It seems to have worked ok.







I'll carve it finished over the next two days and put some egg and dart on the outer moulding.

I'll put silver on the glass and gild it when I get back to London and see if I can flog it to pay the remainder of my course fees.


----------



## Jacob

robgul said:


> What is the orange "finish" ?


Red formica on 1" birch ply. It's a kitchen table with 2 drawers to follow.
It's totally traditional except for the top material which would have been sycamore or similar. The basic design is derived from a Welsh original which had three drawers.


----------



## Henniep

Had a bit of pre-christmas idle time so put it to constructive used. This TV tray is a mixture of various offcuts and a bit of masonite. No.... not inlayed. Zig saw puzzle assembly. Interesting how the colour of the pieces change at different angles. Merry christmas to you all!!


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I'll try again in the right place. Pens again, the casein one to show the colour a bit better and two in London Plane for my wife. She really envied the two I gave away so the Tempest is like them, the Zephyr is more like the pen I made that she is used to - she uses a pen alot, she's used six refills in just about as many months.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

I have no idea why the first photo is duplicated - when I posted in the other thread the second one came up twice.


----------



## RichardG

Decided to make some special Christmas Decorations for my wife. Snowmen were straightforward, turned from Laurel as it's nice and white. The tree is made from the trunk of our first ever Christmas tree, 38 years ago (nah I lied it's a spare bit of 4x2 but had you going for a second ). The tree took much longer than expected and I ran out if time, I want to re-turn the top 2 sections as they don't look quite right plus it's finished in sanding sealer! I'll sneak it back into the workshop in the new year.

Happy Christmas everyone.


----------



## Molynoox

Some incredible work being displayed on this thread, allow me to provide some balance

I built a cabinet for my (nearly) new bandsaw as the metal base it came with does not seem to be be designed with efficient storage in mind. Or mobility.

It's 18mm birch ply and as its the first cabinet I have ever made, I pretty much butchered it despite my best efforts. Peter Millard made it looks so easy too :-D I used dowels and glue to connect it all together, I probably should have used a dowel jig. Its functional, and looks ok, but not quite the perfect finish I was hoping for.

The castors came from toolstation and can hold up to 170kg each - probably overkill. Well, definitely overkill but the bandsaw is heavy and I figured I should go heavy duty. Anybody ever tried lifting a bandsaw? Surprisingly heavy aren't they :-D

I also had to saw down the sides of the drawers because I designed it with ZERO tolerance between drawer and cabinet. What was I thinking? I basically designed a piston.

lots of lessons with this one











Martin


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Starting to get a few things ready for a house (and workshop) move, so being paranoid about all my tools getting jiggled about during transit got me wondering about this Kaizan foam stuff. So as a treat to myself i bought a whole bunch of it. The cutting out of the foam is very therapeutic and extremely satisfying!! Done these 4 drawers so far… lots and lots more to do!!


----------



## paulrbarnard

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Starting to get a few things ready for a house (and workshop) move, so being paranoid about all my tools getting jiggled about during transit got me wondering about this Kaizan foam stuff. So as a treat to myself i bought a whole bunch of it. The cutting out of the foam is very therapeutic and extremely satisfying!! Done these 4 drawers so far… lots and lots more to do!!
> 
> View attachment 124991
> 
> 
> View attachment 124988
> 
> 
> View attachment 124989
> 
> 
> View attachment 124990
> 
> 
> View attachment 124992
> 
> 
> View attachment 124993
> 
> 
> View attachment 124987
> 
> 
> View attachment 124986


Oh boy that appeals to my OCD. What do you cut the foam with?


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

paulrbarnard said:


> Oh boy that appeals to my OCD. What do you cut the foam with?


I use one of these knives…





Olfa SAC-1 Slimline Stainless Steel Graphics Knife : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools


Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop Olfa SAC-1 Slimline Stainless Steel Graphics Knife.



www.amazon.co.uk




Or use a scalpel. Once the outline is cut you just peel it up with your fingers. It’s not easy to make the bottom of a cutout flat, so there’s a lot of picking small pieces of foam… time consuming, but satisfying


----------



## JBaz

My grandson (nearly 5) is into Lego, so his dad asked me to make a "Lego workstation" to keep all the bits off the floor


----------



## houtslager

First part of a 20m picket fence to keep *#£@ dogs pooping on my dad's front garden. Plus finally getting a hybrid workbench glued up from joinery grade 4 by 2 redwood.


----------



## againstthegrain

This is the last project finished. A major reorganisation of my workshop. These are Euroboxes which come in various sizes and slide nicely on simple wooden runners. As you can see I keep fare too much stuff. Believe you me, this lot is still too much , but it is what I have kept after several Freecycle gifts, a few sales and more trips to the tip.


----------



## Cooper

JBaz said:


> My grandson (nearly 5) is into Lego, so his dad asked me to make a "Lego workstation" to keep all the bits off the floor


What a brilliant idea, and really nicely done. I especially like the trough with the sliding top.
Cheers
Martin


----------



## Hallelujahal

Made this small table decoration for today's lunch  umm better rephrase that


----------



## JDW

blackteaonesugar said:


> Yes, I HANDED it to a man with a cnc machine



Well played


----------



## danst96

Waterfall walnut coffee table finished just today. My phone camera and the bright snow outside slightly exaggerates the grain but overall I'm happy. Leg custom fabricated by a friend back in Leeds.


----------



## Graham Brazier

First project in solid wood for at least 20yrs , made a router sled to flatten the board from 2x shower door Ali profiles and an old kitchen work top jig

Charcuterie boards to fit on my friends 4m long solid oak table

And my very first go at using epoxy resin learnt loads and had some fun


----------



## xraymtb

Danish stool following the Richard Maguire video series. Start to finish hand tools - local Elm finished with Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. 

Lots of new stuff for me - curved rails, angled mortise and tenons not to mention the seat weaving (and it may take a week for my hands to feel normal again!)


----------



## Cabinetman

xraymtb said:


> Danish stool following the Richard Maguire video series. Start to finish hand tools - local Elm finished with Fiddes Hard Wax Oil.
> 
> Lots of new stuff for me - curved rails, angled mortise and tenons not to mention the seat weaving (and it may take a week for my hands to feel normal again!)


That’s really very nice indeed, don’t need one but I want one! Or two!
What did you use for the woven bit? It used to be seagrass back in the day.


----------



## xraymtb

Cabinetman said:


> That’s really very nice indeed, don’t need one but I want one! Or two!
> What did you use for the woven bit? It used to be seagrass back in the day.



Danish Paper Cord. Not the easiest stuff to find in smallish quantities but it looks nice and was easy to work with.


----------



## Adam W.

They make it in our local town at Randers reb.






Paper Cord for furniture | Randers Reb


Paper Cord for furniture | Paper cord is sustainable, durable, flexible, high quality and surprisingly low cost. Danish Cord is available in natural, black and white. Surfaces made of braided Danish Cord lasts up to 60 years. Paper Cord for furniture.




danish-cord.randers-reb.com


----------



## Cabinetman

JBaz said:


> My grandson (nearly 5) is into Lego, so his dad asked me to make a "Lego workstation" to keep all the bits off the floor
> 
> View attachment 124996
> 
> View attachment 124997


 Well it’s a very good thought and very nicely executed, I did something not quite so good but with a lot more drawers and storage bits for my children 25 years ago and I can absolutely guarantee that the pieces of Lego will be strewn across the floor just the same as they ever were, sorry just warning you to keep your slippers on lol.


----------



## Jacob

xraymtb said:


> Danish Paper Cord. Not the easiest stuff to find in smallish quantities but it looks nice and was easy to work with.


Lloyd Loom Danish Cord, Seagrass and Lloyd Loom Weaving Materials Price List


----------



## Garden Shed Projects

A bracket for the wife’s Echo Show. Birch ply with magnetic attachment. Turns out you can’t get a hanging bracket that swivels.

I took a guess at the centre of gravity and managed to get it a little out. Still works well.


----------



## bourbon

next door neighbour gave me a little job. The top had to be a specific thickness. So heat and a big hammer.


----------



## bp122

Bone shaped dog bowl holder out of solid oak - present for my sister in law's pup. 

I first cut the inner circles out using a router (had to make a quick and dirty circle cutting jig):




I left a little bit of the material which I cut out using a jigsaw. I cleaned up the jigsaw edges using a spokeshave as I was doing this part at night without any power tools. 



Then cut out the outer shape on the bandsaw the next day. 

Thought of a lot of ways to join the legs to the top. Didn't want a boxy look, so decided to make some legs and glue them and using screws to reinforce it (ran out of time to think of a proper joinery procedure as it was approaching Xmas quite quickly)

So I cut the leg blanks out of the same board, and cut the shapes.



Clamped all the leg pieces in the drill vice and drilled two counterbored holes in each.

Used double sided tape to stick the legs on to eyeballed positions and transferred the holes on to the main piece.

Then I test fitted the bits without the glue. Also found a natural crack, which I fixed with some super glue. The screw length required was in between two standard sizes so selected the longer ones, drilled and tapped them to a depth on the main piece and then cut the screws to size (all of this had to be done after Xmas dinner, so no time to get the screws!!)






Couple of snags but nothing major. Then I used a punch to dot-mark each leg to its position and whipped out my old cabinet scarpers X 2(couldn't use the sander and the vacuum at 11 pm, let alone on Xmas day!!)

Deburred it and established 4 new edges in total. Then took my HSS rod and created 8 new burrs. Took less than 8 mins. 

Scraped the main piece and the legs, including some of the edges which the spokeshaves didn't do a good job on -all without having to redo the scraper edges.

Then just sanded with a hand sander with 320 grit for 2 mins a piece and I was done.

Glued and screwed the legs.

Then brought it into the kitchen and only then thought to test whether it was level or was it rocking. Fortunately there was no rocking whatsoever (plenty of time for it to develop!)







Applied a home made beeswax + butcher block oil mix (at 3.45 am on boxing Day!!) and left it for a few hours. 

Woke up in the morning, have it a good buff and wrapped it to be gifted later that day! 

Couldn't find the branding iron in the recent workshop reshuffle, but was alright. 

Was very well received. Sadly forgot to take pictures after I buffed it. It showed lovely grains. 

Wanted to personalize it with the pup's name, but ran out of time!


----------



## Orraloon

Sure the pup will love it named or not.
Regards
John


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

Finally finished the drawers and door for the router table. Apart from adding a knob for the door so I can open it.

I am never doing drawers or hinges again. The fronts are in Duropal with miniature aluminium U-channel for the edging. I made many, many mistakes, but it is now good enough.


----------



## MARK.B.

Looks great Sporky  a nice new addition to your shop


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

Thank you - you are all far too kind!

I'm off back to the workshop to put the doorknob on and see if I can make a basic box joint now that I've got a fancy-pants positioner doodad. Though I think the only metric bit I've got is an 8mm ball-end bit so they'll be funny looking.


----------



## Sandyn

My son gave me a small 3D printer for Christmas. Great fun playing with it. I tried a few modelling programs, but FreeCad seemed a good choice at the moment.
Made a simple filler for the lathe.


----------



## Lefley

Maple Burl stabilized with blue! African blackwood Top and bottom.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> Maple Burl stabilized with blue! African blackwood Top and bottom.View attachment 125317


Your talent blows me away, these boxes of yours look like they belong in an 3xpensive gallery


----------



## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> Your talent blows me away, these boxes of yours look like they belong in an 3xpensive gallery


Thanks. A lily pad box I made for wife’s sister at Christmas. Stabilized maple Burl.


----------



## Cooper

Lefley said:


> A lily pad box I made for wife’s sister at Christmas. Stabilized maple Burl


This is very impressive. I presume that you turned the balls with stems, to attach them to the box but how did you hold the little dish at the top while you turned it? I presume that the stem of the ball passes through it, did you hold the dish in a jam chuck as you finished it?
Your fine turning is completely out of my league.
Martin


----------



## Rustic Mike

Driftwood and rubbish bits of wood sculpture


----------



## Garno

Rustic Mike said:


> Driftwood and rubbish bits of wood sculpture



There is something very appealing about that.


----------



## Lefley

Cooper said:


> This is very impressive. I presume that you turned the balls with stems, to attach them to the box but how did you hold the little dish at the top while you turned it? I presume that the stem of the ball passes through it, did you hold the dish in a jam chuck as you finished it?
> Your fine turning is completely out of my league.
> Martin


Don’t ever think you can’t turn something. Now embellishing something that’s a different story. That’s where I have trouble. But turning is methodical. Approach it step by step.
the box above has a waste block glued both ends then when held between centres I turn the box and waste blocks round and put tenons on each block to hold then I recheck one end to hold and part the lid off the box.




sorry little blurry but you get the idea.then when parted I can hold each piece separately in chuck and turn. I do inside first an$ I sometimes leav some decorative groves inside box, with one groove being a way I can expand a chuck into it to hold it to turn the outside top and bottom.










this is the side of a lid, you can see groove I can expand chuck into.




lastly legs and finial. The balls I drill and dowel. The finial sometimes I leave some wood to glue into a drilled hole. 







I’ll also add some groves in the stub I leave on bottom of finial for the glue to grab hold of better.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> Don’t ever think you can’t turn something. Now embellishing something that’s a different story. That’s where I have trouble. But turning is methodical. Approach it step by step.
> the box above has a waste block glued both ends then when held between centres I turn the box and waste blocks round and put tenons on each block to hold then I recheck one end to hold and part the lid off the box.
> View attachment 125332
> 
> sorry little blurry but you get the idea.then when parted I can hold each piece separately in chuck and turn. I do inside first an$ I sometimes leav some decorative groves inside box, with one groove being a way I can expand a chuck into it to hold it to turn the outside top and bottom.
> View attachment 125333
> View attachment 125334
> View attachment 125335
> 
> this is the side of a lid, you can see groove I can expand chuck into.View attachment 125337
> 
> 
> lastly legs and finial. The balls I drill and dowel. The finial sometimes I leave some wood to glue into a drilled hole. View attachment 125339
> 
> View attachment 125340
> 
> I’ll also add some groves in the stub I leave on bottom of finial for the glue to grab hold of better.


You make it sound so simple  your skills are 100% something to aspire to, I look forward to the day my skills can produce something so exquisite


----------



## Garno

Stigmorgan said:


> You make it sound so simple  your skills are 100% something to aspire to, I look forward to the day my skills can produce something so exquisite



Fully agree with that Stig fully agree.


----------



## [email protected]

Small side table (H: 28 cm). Made laminating scrap slatted bed base with an Italian tile in the top. Mostly made it up as I went along, using both hand and power tools. Working with the design constraints imposed by the material was fun and satisfying!
Simon


----------



## Fitzroy

Sometimes it’s the little job that unexpectedly give the most pleasure. Fixed a saw handle. Trimmed flat, scrap block glued on, and sawn/carved to shape. Wipe of BLO and it’s back in service.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

I made this. It was in an Intructable email, and my best beloved looked at it and said "You could make that this afternoon." I assumed I was going to prove her wrong and just make misery and sawdust, but lo and behold I made it and it works. Though when you see it this close up it's clear that I'm not great at lathe stuff, or finishing stuff. But I did finally use the O'Donnell jaws I bought a very long time ago, and the Axminster press brake I've had for a decade and used (now) five times, so I'm actually quite pleased.

It is an Epicyclic Bar Angular Transmission or Hobson’s Joint or, if you prefer, a fiddle toy. The two barrel bits (made from an offcut of an old guitar body blank) rotate at 90° to each other. The rods are made from a welding rod that I chopped with bolt cutters, rounded the ends on a sanding drum, and bent in the press brake. Took about 2 hours total, including trying to remember how to work my lathe, and the fixing of several mistakes. The Instructable, which includes 3D printing and laser cutting approaches, is here - Twisty Toy


----------



## Fitzroy

Sporky McGuffin said:


> I made this. It was in an Intructable email, and my best beloved looked at it and said "You could make that this afternoon." I assumed I was going to prove her wrong and just make misery and sawdust, but lo and behold I made it and it works. Though when you see it this close up it's clear that I'm not great at lathe stuff, or finishing stuff. But I did finally use the O'Donnell jaws I bought a very long time ago, and the Axminster press brake I've had for a decade and used (now) five times, so I'm actually quite pleased.
> 
> It is an Epicyclic Bar Angular Transmission or Hobson’s Joint or, if you prefer, a fiddle toy. The two barrel bits (made from an offcut of an old guitar body blank) rotate at 90° to each other. The rods are made from a welding rod that I chopped with bolt cutters, rounded the ends on a sanding drum, and bent in the press brake. Took about 2 hours total, including trying to remember how to work my lathe, and the fixing of several mistakes. The Instructable, which includes 3D printing and laser cutting approaches, is here - Twisty Toy
> 
> View attachment 125432


Witchcraft! There is no way that should work!


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

That's what I like about it! 

I have a book of odd mechanisms. I might try making some of those.


----------



## Nick S

Few Christmas bits practicing my turning 6 months since buying lathe getting better


----------



## Adam W.

Sporky McGuffin said:


> That's what I like about it!
> 
> I have a book of odd mechanisms. I might try making some of those.


OK, I challenge you to make some Penrose stairs.


----------



## Henniep

V


Sporky McGuffin said:


> I made this. It was in an Intructable email, and my best beloved looked at it and said "You could make that this afternoon." I assumed I was going to prove her wrong and just make misery and sawdust, but lo and behold I made it and it works. Though when you see it this close up it's clear that I'm not great at lathe stuff, or finishing stuff. But I did finally use the O'Donnell jaws I bought a very long time ago, and the Axminster press brake I've had for a decade and used (now) five times, so I'm actually quite pleased.
> 
> It is an Epicyclic Bar Angular Transmission or Hobson’s Joint or, if you prefer, a fiddle toy. The two barrel bits (made from an offcut of an old guitar body blank) rotate at 90° to each other. The rods are made from a welding rod that I chopped with bolt cutters, rounded the ends on a sanding drum, and bent in the press brake. Took about 2 hours total, including trying to remember how to work my lathe, and the fixing of several mistakes. The Instructable, which includes 3D printing and laser cutting approaches, is here - Twisty Toy
> 
> View attachment 125432


Verrry nifty!!!


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

I don't like making the same thing twice. The stairs themselves are pretty straightforward, it's making the non-Euclidian geometry to house them that takes a bit of thought (and some very small bits of masking tape).


----------



## voyager

some amazing craftmanship in this thread, a lot of things to aspire to.


----------



## kinverkid

Turned this today from a privet root ball my nephew dropped of last year for the fire pile. He's just popped in and buggered off with it before I could display it for a little longer.















It's 100mm high by 150mm wide. It cost me a bandsaw blade and a tungsten tip cutting through the odd stone embedded in it.


----------



## TRITON

I'm not sure if im embarrassed about this last project or not 
It looks simple but is actually made in the same manner that you would build a timber framed house.
Stud partitions giving a depth of 2", with multiple layers(5) of foil backed insulation in the spaces.
6mm internal ply cladding.
Outer consists of studs,covered by a vapour barrier,covered by 18mm osb,covered by roofing felt, which is stuck on using bitchumen based adhesive, which also adds to the overall waterproofing.
Lid is hinged on, but is of sufficient weight(18mm pine boards, with cross members providing an overhang, also coated in bitchumen, varnished internally
Base is 18mm osb,then 5 more layers of insulation, covered by 6mm ply covered by melamine to provide a weatherproof barrier, although within a few months the soil beneath will dry out completely. It also stands on 4x 3" thick legs.
Internal flooring is bare osb, covered by 10mm dual sided closed cell foam from a camping sleeping mat. Contact adhesive to the osb.
3 windows of differing sizes(2 sides,1 rear) lined and framed in mahogany, with 8 layers of waterproof paint and 5mm perspex for the glass. Inside face of the external window frames are also bitchumen coated to prevent water ingress onto the back of them due to the rough nature of the felt
Lower protective external cladding in mahogany also with 8 layers of the same paint.
Standard cat flap at the front.

Cannot tell if the little blighter has used it yet  Im hoping he will in heavy rain and get used to it from there. I'll stick in some more of his own blankets to help persuade.
I know it looks a bit rough after a week out, but its very solidly built, and i think considerably more wind and watertight than your average outdoor structure,sheds and the like.
I've still to add a ventilation grille, just to prevent any moisture build up.


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

@TRITON Pray tell what sort of "little blighter" is it and how does he get in?


----------



## Gordon Tarling

MorrisWoodman12 said:


> @TRITON Pray tell what sort of "little blighter" is it and how does he get in?



This might be a clue? " Standard cat flap at the front. "  

G.


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

Doh! 
Didn't recognise the cat flap thought it was just another window.


----------



## Adam W.

It's for TRITON's pussy cat.


----------



## Padster

So in another thread you may have seen I was the recipient of an Axi Gift Card for Crimbo. So I went with said card to Axminster and spent a fortune more on a new lathe and chuck set up..... I turned when I was a lot younger, and a little bit again a number of years back, some will see I have been turning pens last year on a mini Proxxon....anyway long story short here is my first ever attempt at a bowl (never tried one previously) it's not perfect, but equally I don't think it's awful thankfully - it's a piece of Sycamore for those interested...













Regards

Padster


----------



## Adam W.

I think it's very nice.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

So do I.


----------



## Fred48

Beautiful


----------



## Flynnwood




----------



## TRITON

MorrisWoodman12 said:


> @TRITON Pray tell what sort of "little blighter" is it and how does he get in?


Sorry, it's a cat.Standard cat flap- Bought from 'Pets at Home 'for a tenner(free advert)

Gods gift to ritual murder. No job too small,he kills 'em all.
Hence the 3 windows, covering the back and sides and the fact its pretty buried in bushes ,with a fir tree covering, it pretty much gives him 360 degrees vision.

If he want's to be the mass murderer(pigeons are involved) then fair be to him. He got attacked by a dog as an adolescent and has no tail and a large bare spot on his lower back where the nerves have being destroyed and the fur can't grow back  Too trusting, too young to know the dangers.

So damaged goods it would seem. 

So if that's his gig, then that's his gig. He's a cat, who after all, are we to judge 
But he's got a big garden, but all he has is a draughty greenhouse to winter in, as he makes full use of the area he's been assigned to. So I thought I'd build him a cat bothy(hunting lodge) nice and cozy. As a guard house for his nightly missions.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Padster said:


> So in another thread you may have seen I was the recipient of an Axi Gift Card for Crimbo. So I went with said card to Axminster and spent a fortune more on a new lathe and chuck set up..... I turned when I was a lot younger, and a little bit again a number of years back, some will see I have been turning pens last year on a mini Proxxon....anyway long story short here is my first ever attempt at a bowl (never tried one previously) it's not perfect, but equally I don't think it's awful thankfully - it's a piece of Sycamore for those interested...
> 
> View attachment 125642
> View attachment 125643
> View attachment 125644
> 
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster


Thats beautiful, I like turning sycamore, wish I had more of it.


----------



## jcassidy

Replacement handle for an my only 14tpi saw. Old handle was all drilled out and secured with hex bolts! Fortunately the previous butcher didn't damage the blade 

Made from scraps of oil stained mahogany and what I think is cheap teak. Nuts from Thomas Flinn & Co.


----------



## Smike

Made another Leaf Box using this dark wood. Not sure what it is. Nice though.


----------



## Stigmorgan

So even though I think k my bearings are on the way out yesterday I decided to put a piece of cherry on the lathe and see what happens, outside shape formed quite nicely and I decided it looked like it needed a lid so kept that in mind as I got started on hollowing out the end grain, for some reason, likely to be tool sharpness and my skillset (or at least a lack of both) this cherry is an absolute pain to hollow end grain, anyway I got most of the way down and instead of stopping to sharpen as I was getting g a few little catches I decided to go for one more pass, big mistake, got a big catch that caused two parallel cracks running top to bottom, to say I was cheesed is an understatement and I must have used every profanity I could think of. I decided to fill the cracks with glue and try to pullt it all back together but I couldn't find my big jubilee clips that would have done the job perfectly so had to use tape which brought the rim back together but didn't do a great job in the middle .
Today I went out determined to finish it regardless of how it looks, there is a bark inclusion central to the two cracks that kind of makes it all work, almost like the cracks are framing the inclusion. So I gave it all a final few passes with the gouge and scraper, sanded it to 240 then used the Yandles abrasive paste and diamond polish I bought while down there last week, I have to say I actually really like the outcome, I made a lid using a scrap of sycamore with a round handle made from another scrap (not sure of species)
Not sure if I used the paste and wax correctly, seemed to take a very long time to work them in untill the paper towel came away clean. Because of the cracks this piece will never be sold or gifted and will stay as my own.











Your browser is not able to display this video.


----------



## Droogs

mmmmmmmm cookies


----------



## Stigmorgan

Droogs said:


> mmmmmmmm cookies


Maybe not cookies, im not sure the wax finish is food safe but I've already put wrapped sweets I got for christmas in it


----------



## kinverkid

Made one of these. The base is Ash from the firewood pile (rescued it before it became ash). The rest of it is a bit of mahogany (or one of the looky-likey species) and a dowel. The wire is from the 'might come in handy one day' box.


----------



## kinverkid

Oops. Photo two.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

It makes a lot more sense with that second photo!


----------



## Cabinetman

Yes I thought it was bar skittles! Nice, You’re gonna have to get on with it a little bit though and make a few more dozens to compete with Arkwright's loom lol.


----------



## WoodchipWilbur

Adam W. said:


> It's for TRITON's pussy cat cat.


... and I thought it was for a little girl doggie. After all, it's covered in "bitchumen "!


----------



## Droogs

kinverkid said:


> Oops. Photo two.
> View attachment 125710


Thought it was for TP for a second. Is it for a sewing machine or hand sewing, gen up Q?


----------



## Lefley

kinverkid said:


> Oops. Photo two.
> View attachment 125710


Now it makes sense. The first photo on its own I thought what is he going to hang over a lit candle? Mind you I didn’t have my glasses on!


----------



## kinverkid

Droogs said:


> Thought it was for TP for a second. Is it for a sewing machine or hand sewing, gen up Q?


It's for my old Singer machine for sewing thin leather. Of course it could be used for any type of machine that doesn't have a facility to hold the larger spools too. There is another small wooden bobbin with an eye screw in the side of it that goes over the stem where a normal cotton reel would be so as to guide the thread from the same angle as it would be from a regular reel. Hope that makes sense.


----------



## NickDReed

Couple of hours pottering in the garage. Turned my first bowl out of some sycamore felled in my brothers back garden a couple of years ago. 

Lots to learn, but I'm pleased with the result. Still needs finish.


----------



## Sheptonphil

And yes, it’s exactly what it looks like. Asked to make this by a friend two weeks ago, who is no longer with us. Quite an honour to be asked.


----------



## Cabinetman

Well done Phil, it’s good that you can make this loss more bearable.


----------



## Sheptonphil

Cabinetman said:


> Well done Phil, it’s good that you can make this loss more bearable.


Yes, it is. She was so, accepting of the end. Diagnosis to end in two weeks, no symptoms, no warning. Perhaps a wake up call to us all. 

And it was made in time for her to see it as well, which she dearly wanted.


----------



## Jameshow

Sheptonphil said:


> And yes, it’s exactly what it looks like. Commissioned by a friend two weeks ago, who is no longer with us. Quite an honour to be asked.
> View attachment 125831
> View attachment 125832
> View attachment 125833


Lovely - reminds me of the coffin thread in the other forum, so moving......


----------



## Jester129

What a lovely thing to make. Very moving. Well done Phil.


----------



## Smike

jcassidy said:


> Replacement handle for an my only 14tpi saw. Old handle was all drilled out and secured with hex bolts! Fortunately the previous butcher didn't damage the blade
> 
> Made from scraps of oil stained mahogany and what I think is cheap teak. Nuts from Thomas Flinn & Co.


 Great job. Nice to breathe life into these old saws


----------



## Linus

My very first venture into kumiko. Quite pleased with it but it is challenging! Many thanks to @pulleyt for his instructions which got me interested.


----------



## Adam W.

@Linus That's lovely.


----------



## jcassidy

"Dad, will you make me a sword?"

"No, but I'll help you make one..."

Held her interest for two entire hours, which of you recall what having an 8 great old is like, is pretty amazing.


----------



## kinverkid

jcassidy said:


> "Dad, will you make me a sword?"
> 
> "No, but I'll help you make one..."
> 
> Held her interest for two entire hours, which of you recall what having an 8 great old is like, is pretty amazing.


Fantastic!


----------



## Sheptonphil

jcassidy said:


> "Dad, will you make me a sword?"
> 
> "No, but I'll help you make one..."
> 
> Held her interest for two entire hours, which of you recall what having an 8 great old is like, is pretty amazing.


Absolutely the best present to give any child, your time guidance and encouragement. She’s one luck girl.


----------



## Fitzroy

One edge of the new outhouse roof is on the boundary wall, but only half of if, one brick wide. Rain gets into the wall and makes it wet. 

Made some lipped edging to try to keep the rain off the top of the wall. First time with an angled housing, cut on the table saw and boards planed to fit. Working with rough sawn timber and adjusting to fit was fun. It also turned out I needed a tool that my Secret Santa knew I would need, outside edge calipers.


----------



## Nelly111s

jcassidy said:


> "Dad, will you make me a sword?"
> 
> "No, but I'll help you make one..."
> 
> Held her interest for two entire hours, which of you recall what having an 8 great old is like, is pretty amazing.



Great work. Get her to spray it (and your workshop) silver now for the full experience.

I hope you also gave her a 3 hour lesson on plane blade sharpening  .


----------



## Grantx

With glitter and sparkles  


Nelly111s said:


> Get her to spray it (and your workshop) silver now for the full experience.


----------



## Dynamite

jcassidy said:


> "Dad, will you make me a sword?"
> 
> "No, but I'll help you make one..."
> 
> Held her interest for two entire hours, which of you recall what having an 8 great old is like, is pretty amazing.


Spot on.


----------



## Dynamite

Sheptonphil said:


> And yes, it’s exactly what it looks like. Asked to make this by a friend two weeks ago, who is no longer with us. Quite an honour to be asked.
> View attachment 125831
> View attachment 125832
> View attachment 125833


Really sorry for the reason behind making this but it’s a work of art, you should be so proud, 

Rob


----------



## jcassidy

Think Boudica rather than Barbie.


----------



## kinverkid

Bowl from a silver birch burr and resin in-fill. 95mm high by 140mm wide. Can't quite get the silky look of the wood in the photographs.

Gary


----------



## Stigmorgan

kinverkid said:


> Bowl from a silver birch burr and resin in-fill. 95mm high by 140mm wide. Can't quite get the silky look of the wood in the photographs.
> 
> Gary
> 
> View attachment 125965
> View attachment 125964
> View attachment 125966


Thats beautiful


----------



## Lons

Sheptonphil said:


> Asked to make this by a friend two weeks ago, who is no longer with us. Quite an honour to be asked.


Well done Phil I guarantee you will have shed a tear or two while making that. 
I made oak caskets for the ashes of both my parents before burial, the last for my mother was 11 years ago but I remember vividly the emotions at the time affected me, a difficult a task but as you say, also an honour.


----------



## houtslager

Well, as I'm going to be here more often and for longer periods due too my dad's illnesses and pestering to help run his business, selling old used furniture and bits .
I needed a mancave / workshop .
So, have the mancave but need a bench to work on, fed up of the old door on trestles.
This is my third self build bench, and just for the hell of it, thought I'd go for using joinery grade redwood for a change. Still got a couple of things to sort out - like a large leg vice, a couple of sliding deadmen and then I'll slap some old wardrobe finish on it all


----------



## Dynamite

houtslager said:


> Well, as I'm going to be here more often and for longer periods due too my dad's illnesses and pestering to help run his business, selling old used furniture and bits .
> I needed a mancave / workshop .
> So, have the mancave but need a bench to work on, fed up of the old door on trestles.
> This is my third self build bench, and just for the hell of it, thought I'd go for using joinery grade redwood for a change. Still got a couple of things to sort out - like a large leg vice, a couple of sliding deadmen and then I'll slap some old wardrobe finish on it all


Thats a great bench houtslager. Look very solid and I like the length.... Rob


----------



## Jameshow

Dynamite said:


> Thats a great bench houtslager. Look very solid and I like the length.... Rob


Are you down under as the tool well is upside down!!

Nice bench btw!


----------



## clogs

getting nearer....made a huge pile of rocks, fore ground.....dug out by hand....to small a job for a digger to turn up, even for cash.....


....does that count.....?
just 2 more big'uns for the last of the footings...


----------



## Fitzroy

houtslager said:


> Well, as I'm going to be here more often and for longer periods due too my dad's illnesses and pestering to help run his business, selling old used furniture and bits .
> I needed a mancave / workshop .
> So, have the mancave but need a bench to work on, fed up of the old door on trestles.
> This is my third self build bench, and just for the hell of it, thought I'd go for using joinery grade redwood for a change. Still got a couple of things to sort out - like a large leg vice, a couple of sliding deadmen and then I'll slap some old wardrobe finish on it all


Great looking bench. What do you think of the Ryobi palm router? It's on my palm router possibles list.


----------



## kinverkid

An oak bowl from a crotch from my friend's tree cut down 2018. I part turned it a few months ago but it still developed cracks. After filling those with resin a few more developed. I filled those then turned what you see here. It still developed one more small crack but I'm determined to persevere with it. I wish I hadn't turned the foot off though. It would have made it easier to re-mount (ooer). It's 110mm high and 146mm wide.






Also. I'm taking a chance posting this because it might not work. Hopefully I'll post a finished item tomorrow. It's around 130mm square by around 60mm wide. It's two slices of root which I think is robinia sandwiching a slice of oak.


----------



## Jameshow

Drawing on the decks....!


----------



## RichardG

I was given a small trunk of what I think is Walnut? Unfortunately it had several cracks and rot and after a careless catch destroyed one bowl, I ended up with one tiny bowl....


----------



## kinverkid

RichardG said:


> I was given a small trunk of what I think is Walnut? Unfortunately it had several cracks and rot and after a careless catch destroyed one bowl, I ended up with one tiny bowl....
> 
> View attachment 126151


That grain is amazing. I don't think it's walnut though. It's similar to Hawthorne. I can see your next job - bowl display shelf.


----------



## kinverkid

So, my cunning mish-mash, laminate, glue-up worked. Still unsure what wood the root ball was. I'm still leaning towards Robinia.


----------



## Cooper

RichardG said:


> I was given a small trunk of what I think is Walnut?


It looks like Yew to me. A nice job whatever it is.


----------



## RichardG

kinverkid said:


> That grain is amazing. I don't think it's walnut though. It's similar to Hawthorne. I can see your next job - bowl display shelf.


I always try and give an item back to the person who donated the log, so far no one has rejected it and has always resulted in more wood, so win win. I’ve got quite used to the look of sheer delight on my wife’s face when I come in with “another bowl” 

Thanks for the possible ident, it was the most difficult wood I have had to turn so far, quickly took the edge off the gouge.


----------



## houtslager

Fitzroy said:


> Great looking bench. What do you think of the Ryobi palm router? It's on my palm router possibles list.


Not bad for 18v. Be nicer if I can find a 8mm collet for it, as most of my bits are 8mm but then I'd go for the Makita 18v though twice the cost.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Had 2 pieces of spalted silver birch that were triangular in shape rather than round, they were also extremely soft/punky so after soaking them in wood hardener and leaving them for a couple months yesterday I finally decided to mount one on the lathe and see what it wanted to be, my first thought was possibly a small vase of some sort and having recently looked through a roman history book the shape of an amphora was in the back of my mind, as it started to take shape I stupidly got carried away and forgot to leave a way to turn it round and hollow it, so now I have an amphora shaped paperweight that can be used as an egg at Easter time. I'm thinking of drilling a hole into it big enough to fit a large test tube in it and make a stand for it to sit in, sanded to 320 then Yandles abrasive paste and 2 coats of yandles diamond wax, the 2nd piece is on the lathe roughly shaped the same waiting to be finished and sanded.




Your browser is not able to display this video.


----------



## kinverkid

OMGA that spalting is psychodelic. Maybe turn a dovetail tenon foot for the chuck and attach it to the base. That would most likely mean losing a bit of the bottom and with 'punky' wood it may be taking a big risk even after soaking it in hardener..


----------



## Stigmorgan

kinverkid said:


> OMGA that spalting is psychodelic. Maybe turn a dovetail tenon foot for the chuck and attach it to the base. That would most likely mean losing a bit of the bottom and with 'punky' wood it may be taking a big risk even after soaking it in hardener..


I've brought it into the house and put it on my crafting table to settle and adjust to being indoors, I have it standing on its tenon in the "Easter egg" position, I really like the shape it has so plan to leave it as is, the stand will be fairly simple and made from acrylic sheet so that it doesn't take away from the wood, I really like the bark inclusion in this one too. I'll post some pics of the 2nd one tomorrow, its not exactly the same but fairly close, I'm planning to gift them as a pair to a very good friend and his wife who have always been there to help us out when we've needed.




(Ignore the pile of papercraft birds waiting to be made) Will be interesting to see if/how it moves having been out the cold garage, its always puzzled me slightly how moisture can still enter/leave I piece even when it's cover in wax finishes.


----------



## Orraloon

Thats a lovely looking bit of wood. I have never gone down the hardner path but that looks to have been worth it.
Regards
John


----------



## gregmcateer

Stig,
That is lovely. Don't worry about not being able to hollow it. It's a stunning artistic piece.


----------



## Stigmorgan

@gregmcateer @Orraloon thanks guys, the hardner definately made a difference to the amount of tear out and made it easier to to cut, not sure I would have trusted the tenon without the hardner. Definately an artistic piece, will be taking a dremel to the top and tidying it up, had to remove the tenon with a chisel so it needs some work. I'm tempted to find more spalted birch and make smaller ones and have them as a set of 3


----------



## Garno

@Stigmorgan that is beautiful


----------



## Droogs

The spalting is truly lovely on this piece and you have chosen a shape to accentuate its beauty very well. Makes me want to look at it really really closely, even if there is a risk of getting a queen face-hugger jumping out of it.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Droogs said:


> The spalting is truly lovely on this piece and you have chosen a shape to accentuate its beauty very well. Makes me want to look at it really really closely, even if there is a risk of getting a queen face-hugger jumping out of it.


Thanks Droogs that means a lot, I rarely seek validation but your comment and the attention this piece has attracted has really given me a much needed boost.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

Rather trivial compared to much of what's in the thread, but I made a little stand/holder for the insert rings for the router table. And I used the router table to do it, and it only went wrong in a couple of places and you can't see them in the photos (or in the drawer). And it used up an offcut I'd been wondering what to do with.


----------



## clogs

have to say those bits of wood Stigmorgan and kniverkid are so special....
good use thereof.....
I'd think of them fondly eveytime I picked them up.....

I have a few things gifted to me by a good friend just before he died of cancer....
I give a little nod everytime I use them....


----------



## Lefley

This one I was finishing for secret Santa. when my wife saw it, 


I was forbidden to sending it to anyone. It was going in her personal collection she said.


----------



## ALB

Very mundane, but I am brand new to this so it's an achievement! Big scraper handle in ash.


----------



## Lefley

ALB said:


> Very mundane, but I am brand new to this so it's an achievement! Big scraper handle in ash.


Very nice. You have just motivated me to get my ass in gear and get off the iPad and get making things I’ve put off for years. I have so many gouges, scrapers with no handles sitting in my collection. With a huge ash board sitting close by. Time to cut some handle blanks and start turning. Now off to hardware store to get some pipe to cut some metal ferrules. It gets a little dangerous using them with no handles in a pinch.


----------



## Adam W.

An installation of chips....


----------



## Droogs

Lefley said:


> This one I was finishing for secret Santa. when my wife saw it, View attachment 126470
> I was forbidden to sending it to anyone. It was going in her personal collection she said.


Tell her she is now on Santa's very naughty list


----------



## WoodchipWilbur

Adam W: 

That's a very serious saw blade in the photo....


----------



## Stigmorgan

Just finished the 2nd amphora inspired piece, the pair are now complete, I've intentionally made them slightly different, next step is to design and create a pair of stands that don't take away from the pieces, I'd welcome any suggestions.


----------



## Jameshow

Squashed egg cups??


----------



## Droogs

I would suggest a pair in the style of the bottom half of globe cradles 






or something like the below


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> Squashed egg cups??


 they're upside down in the pic


----------



## gog64

Sporky McGuffin said:


> Rather trivial compared to much of what's in the thread, but I made a little stand/holder for the insert rings for the router table. And I used the router table to do it, and it only went wrong in a couple of places and you can't see them in the photos (or in the drawer). And it used up an offcut I'd been wondering what to do with.
> 
> View attachment 126276
> 
> View attachment 126277



I doff my cap to you sir. That is one of the finest toast racks I’ve ever seen.


----------



## RichardG

First attempt at staining, not quite the colour I was after but not-bad for a first attempt. Biggest learning point is that the stain highlights any defect and minor sanding line so finish is important. I also need to re-remember colour blending. Anyone recommend any good videos / tutorials?


----------



## kinverkid

RichardG said:


> Anyone recommend any good videos / tutorials?


I think the colour is great. Stewart Furini on YouTube is a great one for all sorts of ideas for colouring and staining woodturnings.


----------



## Sandyn

More 3D printed stuff. The wrench is a collaboration with someone who is better at modelling than I am! It's a tool for locking the Bull wheel on a Myford ML7, but still prototype. My original design is in the middle and works very well for slackening or tightening the chuck. Once finished, the wrench will be on the thingiverse for download.
I have found that FreeCad has compatibility problems when you export or save in different file formats, so going to try Fusion 360.


----------



## Cooper

If its ok to post 3D printing here, I'm rather pleased with myself to have made a 10cm tall little puppet with a trapped ball joint at the neck and integral hinges at the knees, wrists and elbows. Drawn and sliced on old versions of Sketchup & Cura as our old computer can't install modern versions. 
I'm afraid that it looks rather male. That wasn't the plan, I just wanted enough room for the hips to swivel on the ball joints. 
The printer keeps me out of the shed in cold weather.


----------



## Droogs

I knew I could dance properly, SWMBO is wrong


----------



## Lefley

You never know what you are going to get until you cut into it. This 12 inch bowl that I turned for a gift for a family member, stole the show. It was a piece of walnut that looked pretty plain in a chunk form. Sorry for picture quality, I forgot to photograph and wife’s sister send back a photo after opening.


----------



## Chris Brunton

DTR said:


> This is a bit of an experiment. Most forums I've been on have had a "Post pics of [something topical]" thread, but not this one. There's probably a good reason for that, but I'm going to stick my neck out anyway.
> 
> The idea is, quite simply, to post a photo of the last thing you made. It can be something quite insignificant, a component of something bigger, or a completed project. It can be something that's not thread-worthy on its own, or it can be something that already has a 9 page WIP thread in the Projects section, it really doesn't matter! It's just a bit of fun, but hopefully it will generate some discussion too.
> 
> So here's my offering to get the ball rolling. I could have posted a photo of a mug of tea, but that's hardly relevant. This is a replacement guide knob for SWMBO's Burgess bandsaw. Formally it was in the care of her Dad, who isn't the most mechanically minded, hence why it needed a bit of a spruce up before going back into service!


----------



## Chris Brunton

My xmas present for our 1 & 3 year old grandchildren


----------



## Garno

Cooper said:


> The printer keeps me out of the shed in cold weather.



The cold keeps me out of mine


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Framed, ledged and braced door in prime European Oak.
Tongue and groove to the back.....or the front.....depending how you look at it.


----------



## Lefley

blackteaonesugar said:


> Framed, ledged and braced door in prime European Oak.
> Tongue and groove to the back.....or the front.....depending how you look at it.
> View attachment 126694
> 
> View attachment 126695
> 
> View attachment 126696
> 
> View attachment 126697
> 
> View attachment 126698


very nice. The picture looks like a door that when opened is to another dimension, while sitting on the lawn.


----------



## jcassidy

Very nice and a great help to all of us who were born in a field and never learned to close a door.


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Lefley said:


> very nice. The picture looks like a door that when opened is to another dimension



Well let's hope it has........DIMENSION al stability.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

I don't think I ever thought I'd post this sentence:

That is a darned handsome door.


----------



## Simo

My latest bass build.. Black Limba body (chambered) with English Walnut top, Maple neck and Ebony fretboard.


----------



## Cooper

I love the paneling flush with the frame, so much nicer than a the small recess so often a feature of panels. I made all my kitchen cupboard doors like that, 35 years ago, and I'm pleased with them every time I look at them. Very Arne Jacobsen.
Martin


----------



## Lefley

A finger lidded box! Resin infused maple Burl with African Blackwood insert.


----------



## akirk

Made at a friend's:






which has of course led to some purchases:


----------



## Lefley

Simo said:


> My latest bass build.. Black Limba body (chambered) with English Walnut top, Maple neck and Ebony fretboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm no musician by any means, but aren’t guitars suppose to have 6 strings. Obviously I’m mistaken. What is the advantage to 5 strings. I can see one or two strings, then I could play it, but 5 vs 6 has me thinking!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm no musician by any means, but aren’t guitars suppose to have 6 strings. Obviously I’m mistaken. What is the advantage to 5 strings. I can see one or two strings, then I could play it, but 5 vs 6 has me thinking!
> 
> [/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm no musician by any means, but aren’t guitars suppose to have 6 strings. Obviously I’m mistaken. What is the advantage to 5 strings. I can see one or two strings, then I could play it, but 5 vs 6 has me thinking!


----------



## Stigmorgan

The number of strings relates to the number of cords available, more strings = more cords/notes it can be as few as 3 or 4, or as many as 12, depends on the individual artists requirements, exactly the same as some pianos have more keys than others.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

Also that's a bass. They traditionally have four strings. Five usually goes lower, but can go higher for more chordal/melodic work. As a gross oversimplification.


----------



## Simo

edit: Double post


----------



## Simo

As Sporky mentioned, it is indeed a bass.. so although the traditional 4 string is still the most popular choice, 5 (or more) strings are very common these days. This particular bass is tuned to standard, so the same as 4 string (E,A,D,G) but with a low B string added.


----------



## Citracal

Some side tables


----------



## Fitzroy

Citracal said:


> Some side tables


Wow. Would love to see some more photos or some comments on how they are made.


----------



## NickVanBeest

First time making sliding dovetails with the router table... Not perfect, but the mistakes are hidden  

It's a small (18 x 14 cm) shelf for a friend for her pot plant...







Just needs a sanding, and she wants it stained white, so that's the next steps before installing on Sunday.


----------



## Droogs

NickVanBeest said:


> First time making sliding dovetails with the router table... Not perfect, but the mistakes are hidden
> 
> It's a small (18 x 14 cm) shelf for a friend for her pot plant...
> 
> View attachment 126927
> View attachment 126928
> View attachment 126929
> View attachment 126930
> 
> 
> Just needs a sanding, and she wants it stained white, so that's the next steps before installing on Sunday.


nice one. Always good to push yourself to try new things with the tools you have and add a useful feather to your hat or what ever the saying is . Did you use a straight bit first and then use the dovetail to refine the shape or just go with the dovetail bit in one go? I can't tell from the photo, does the dovetail narrow as it goes forward or is it parallel sides?


----------



## NickVanBeest

Droogs said:


> nice one. Always good to push yourself to try new things with the tools you have and add a useful feather to your hat or what ever the saying is . Did you use a straight bit first and then use the dovetail to refine the shape or just go with the dovetail bit in one go? I can't tell from the photo, does the dovetail narrow as it goes forward or is it parallel sides?


Yes, straight bit first, and no, no tapering


----------



## kinverkid

I've made quite a few of these drinks stands for fellow campers. This last two are made from what I think might be Douglas Fir. Reclaimed from stair treads from a Victorian house conversion. The third photograph is one I made last year. I added it because I didn't think to photograph the others with drinks props.


----------



## Droogs

well made @kinverkid Did you use metal hinges rather than make wooden ones just out of concerns over durability or for some other reason? And are the pointy bits just wood or do they have metal covers or pins?


----------



## kinverkid

Droogs said:


> well made @kinverkid Did you use metal hinges rather than make wooden ones just out of concerns over durability or for some other reason? And are the pointy bits just wood or do they have metal covers or pins?


Thank you. It is because of durability. I now make the hinges from scratch with my cheap welder and brass rod for the peg. I know these often get left outside in all weathers so the metal ones stand up to the elements better. The one spike is a sharpening steel and the other is a long drill bit that had an extension braised to it by a previous owner. I sharpened them both to points and epoxy glued them in. The bottle openers I buy in packs of five.

Gary


----------



## Lefley

12 inch salad bowl. Waiting for osmo oil to soak in before wiping off. A 60th birthday present for brother-in-law.


----------



## kinverkid

Lefley said:


> 12 inch salad bowl. Waiting for osmo oil to soak in before wiping off. A 60th birthday present for brother-in-law.


That's a beautiful salad bowl. What wood is it?


----------



## Lefley

kinverkid said:


> Thank you. It is because of durability. I now make the hinges from scratch with my cheap welder and brass rod for the peg. I know these often get left outside in all weathers so the metal ones stand up to the elements better. The one spike is a sharpening steel and the other is a long drill bit that had an extension braised to it by a previous owner. I sharpened them both to points and epoxy glued them in. The bottle openers I buy in packs of five.
> 
> Gary





kinverkid said:


> That's a beautiful salad bowl. What wood is it?


big leaf maple Burl


----------



## kinverkid

A large oak bowl. This started out 460mm by 55mm. The finished dimensions are 450mm by 38mm. I lost a lot in the thickness taking away the cupping.


----------



## pulleyt

I was asked by my son to hang a new dartboard in his flat. He'd also bought a surround to catch the odd stray dart and was hoping the two items could go on one of the doors in his hallway, the only choice of where to hang the board in the flat. However, this would have put it a good 200 mm below regulation height. So I offered to make a pack-away stand - with lighting.

In an effort to keep costs down it's made from 2 x 4 CLS that I converted into 38 x 25 mm battens, a piece of 9mm MDF and cheap piano hinges.
This is it packed away for storage (1350 × 750 x 80mm).






And unfolded it looks like this.






The lights are USB rechargeable as there isn't a convenient mains point in the hallway and are mounted on short battens that bolt into the top corners of the backing board.


----------



## Tris

Very nice,but if he's anything like me at darts you may need a big sheet of MDF on the floor too


----------



## kinverkid

Very nice. From the first photo I was wondering if it was the start of a Kumiko dartboard stand.


----------



## S.J.Carpentry




----------



## Lefley

pulleyt said:


> I was asked by my son to hang a new dartboard in his flat. He'd also bought a surround to catch the odd stray dart and was hoping the two items could go on one of the doors in his hallway, the only choice of where to hang the board in the flat. However, this would have put it a good 200 mm below regulation height. So I offered to make a pack-away stand - with lighting.
> 
> In an effort to keep costs down it's made from 2 x 4 CLS that I converted into 38 x 25 mm battens, a piece of 9mm MDF and cheap piano hinges.
> This is it packed away for storage (1350 × 750 x 80mm).
> 
> View attachment 127030
> 
> 
> And unfolded it looks like this.
> 
> View attachment 127031
> 
> 
> The lights are USB rechargeable as there isn't a convenient mains point in the hallway and are mounted on short battens that bolt into the top corners of the backing board.


Very nice. Is darts a big thing over there in England? I know years ago I got a pool cue made for me in England and shipped over to Canada. A barracuda. Everyone thought I was crazy, til I started taking all there money!


----------



## Lefley

In the shop finishing up a “clown Box” hard to tell with my poor photography but it is really pink. Stabilized maple Burl and African blackwood.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

I made this bodge to improve the extraction on my router table, while I decide whether or not to buy the Wonder Fence. A 38mm to 63mm adaptor from Charnwood, marked with a pencil, cut with junior hacksaw, Dremel disc, and Stanley knife. Wodges nicely into the end of the extrusion, and chip capture is noticeably better. It will get in the way of any workpieces that have to run right across the table though.


----------



## Dr Al

I didn't really make this, my 3D printer did.

Some waste side kerf jigs for the track saw:






For use like this:






In two different sizes so that they clip together for easy storage:






Files are here in case anyone is interested (also includes models for lots of other kerf sizes for different track saws): PrusaPrinters


----------



## Lefley

Sometimes the simplest builds are the most ingenious and effective. Minus -20 here last week. Not all wood is destined for the lathe. Let’s hope my dementia doesn’t kick in and i use this piece of wood for my next project!


----------



## Fitzroy

Lefley said:


> Sometimes the simplest builds are the most ingenious and effective. Minus -20 here last week. Not all wood is destined for the lathe. Let’s hope my dementia doesn’t kick in and i use this piece of wood for my next project!
> 
> 
> View attachment 127083


It took me a while! Brilliant, made me chortle when I finally got it.


----------



## clogs

we rescue new born puppies......
they usually leave bfore they cock their leg.....hahaha....

the last 2 from the 7 we saved leave next week....now almost 4months old.....
I sugested a month off to my better 1/2 before the next litter.....


----------



## Stigmorgan

So SWMBO 'asked' if I could make a 3d picture frame type thing to house a dried flower, someone she knows recently buried their husband and was drying a couple of flowers from the funeral with the intention of framing them, this got my creative juices flowing so off I went out to my little maker space and had a look at what I've got, I dug out a silver birch round that was about 200x100mm and started working it, I turned a tenon on both ends then parted a section off, I shaped and hollowed the body of the box and then set the recess for the lid plus 4mm extra, I then sanded it to 400 and used abrasive paste followed by 2 coats of diamond wax, then I mounted the remaining part, turned a tenon to tight fit the body of the box and turned the whole thing round, shaped the lid to fit the body then hollowed the lid to form a ring, after all this I then clamped a piece of 4mm acrylic between the head and tailstock and turned a circle that is 2mm smaller than the recess for the lid so that if the wood does move it shouldn't clamp on the acrylic and break it.













I'll post some more pics once I've got the flower mounted in there and lid glued on.


----------



## Fanous

Sporky McGuffin said:


> I made this bodge to improve the extraction on my router table, while I decide whether or not to buy the Wonder Fence. A 38mm to 63mm adaptor from Charnwood, marked with a pencil, cut with junior hacksaw, Dremel disc, and Stanley knife. Wodges nicely into the end of the extrusion, and chip capture is noticeably better. It will get in the way of any workpieces that have to run right across the table though.
> 
> View attachment 127075
> 
> 
> View attachment 127076


I was looking at Incra router table related things the other day. So expensive. How are you finding it? I was looking at this combo. Saves you about £350 compared to bying individualy. But stilll... Any comments welcome.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

I'd buy the positioner and fence and the tabletop. I don't have the Wonder Fence so can't comment on that (though I may well add it).

I wouldn't buy the base again - I'd build a cabinet with drawers and cupboard space (probably from 15mm ply) for the tabletop to sit on, and put that on locking castors or a wheeled base

You'll need to add a router plate or lift - the Incra lift with the Cleansweep rings is pretty good, but I'd say add a digital readout to that so you don't have to remember how many times you've cranked the handle - with a DRO you'll know exactly how far out the bit is, and it'll be easier to zero. I think you pretty much have to add a mitre gauge for a lot of operations, but the eBay special one I bought is really good (and about £45).

Then if you want to make full use of the positioner and the templates you need to buy the router bit set. because the dovetail bits have very specific geometries. And the AUK router motor (or an equivalent) and is nice as you get remote speed control and the Musclechuck (plus the reducing collets) makes changing bits a lot easier.

It's a bit of a slippery spendy slope, and I'm still struggling to make cuts with the precision Incra suggest - you're reliant on a lot of eyeballing (or buying a digital depth gauge). The big right angle jig is a bit of a bodge - by the time you've got the wiggle out of it it's clamped solid to the fence; loosen it enough to slide and it can move laterally. I'm on my fifteenth attempt to cut a 10mm wide slot in the centre of a 30mm wide workpiece with an 8mm wide router bit.

Sorry. Bit of a long answer. I think it has great potential and the positioner is a brilliant idea, but do think if that's how you want to do things. I'm looking at the project that set me off down this path and thinking it'd be easier and quicker to do by hand with a marking gauge, a good saw, and some sharp chisels. I'm confident that I'll turn the corner with it and start getting things made though.


----------



## Fanous

Thanks for this, actually very helpful info! I'm not going to go down that route any time soon, but it's good info gathering. Much appreciated.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

No probs. 

Basically remember that you'll need to spend as much again to turn the combo into the dream Incra sell - the combo is the first installment, not a complete solution.


----------



## MikeJhn

And also remember that you need as much room behind the fence as in front, I got rid of mine as it just took up too much room, replaced it with an Axminster UJK professional router table with lift, indexed lifting and good extraction with the extraction box enclosing the router.


----------



## Rorton

Original brief from the wife was for 2 matching side tables in black for the conservatory. I did these, and then we felt that one of them needed to be a nest, so made 2 more.

Pleased with how they turned out - made from oak, and then stained with Indian ink, and then finished with OSMO PolyX Satin.

There is a second of the large tables too which is stand alone as that has something underneath it.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Just finished the stands for my amphora inspired creations, decided to use a couple pieces of oak that I had laying about, I'm super pleased with the how it all goes together


----------



## Stigmorgan

Forgot to say in my post that the oak stands were a pain to hollow out to match their amphora but I managed to do without too many swear words being shouted, once shaped I used a dremel with some carving bits to remove the bulk and shape the 3 supports, then sanded up to 360, I then coated them in some thick watercolour paint and then washed it off to highlight the grain and darken the wood, once dry I wiped on some diamond wax and buffed them up.


----------



## Droogs

Nice one they suite the style of the pieces and flow organically with them


----------



## Fred48

Stigmorgan said:


> Forgot to say in my post that the oak stands were a pain to hollow out to match their amphora but I managed to do without too many swear words being shouted, once shaped I used a dremel with some carving bits to remove the bulk and shape the 3 supports, then sanded up to 360, I then coated them in some thick watercolour paint and then washed it off to highlight the grain and darken the wood, once dry I wiped on some diamond wax and buffed them up.View attachment 127410


Stunningly beautiful.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Thanks @Droogs @Fred48 I'm so happy with them, glad I decided to use wood instead of acrylic. Plus, come Easter they can both be turned upside down and the stand becomes a 3 legged table for the Easter egg to sit on


----------



## Stigmorgan




----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> View attachment 127420


You've been turning 20years surely?!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> You've been turning 20years surely?!


My first ever turning was an iroko goblet on 3rd November 2021 so less than 3 months, I have however been watching YouTube turner's for 3 years or so


----------



## Adam W.

WoW! That's impressive progress.


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> My first ever turning was an iroko goblet on 3rd November 2021 so less than 3 months, I have however been watching YouTube turner's for 3 years or so
> View attachment 127428
> View attachment 127429


Exactly fantastic progress!
I'm going to see my counsellor this morning....!


----------



## kinverkid

This started out a 480 x 500 x 65mm blank. It's an off-cut from the same batch of oak boards as the previous larger oak bowl I posted a few days ago. This blank had a much severe cup than the other and a crack near the middle of it. I decided to cut the cracked section out losing a 40mm section from the middle. I could then plane the two cut edges square to the faces and joint them. This took out the cup but the join is visible especially in this 'flashed' photograph. The finished bowl is 350 x 50mm.


----------



## Padster

So a few weeks ago you may have seen my first bowl I turned well this is not quite a plate or a bowl really, it's what I'd call a nick nacks tray... you walk in and dump keys and money from your pockets on it.....
It has an unexpected resin centre....I may have got the bottom thinner than I thought and when I was adding the pattern I created an opportunity for my first go at using resin 









Regards

Padster


----------



## kinverkid

Nice save. I've had my fair share of making 'Polo's' too.


----------



## Stigmorgan

@kinverkid that's a gorgeous piece, the joint isn't really obvious, it blends in nicely, making me want to dig through my pile of oak and see what I can find 

@Padster that's very pretty, the resin suits it too


----------



## rob1693

Wow stig Morgan spalting on that birch is absolutely beautiful nature's finest art up there with Jack frost's Ice art on Windows in a house I lived in 70's


----------



## Old School

Not the last thing I made, as I dont have photos of that, but the next to last thing. Its Sewing Machine Table that was mostly made from scrap I had lying around. The lower legs were made in 25x25x2 box section, and the uppers from 20x20x2. This was done to allow th height adjustment. Their design was a rough copy of the type used for some industrial sewing machines. Drawers were scrap ones I found.

The wooden top was "marbled, which is an old finishing technique.


----------



## kinverkid

When I swivel the headstock of my lathe to turn larger bowls, I can't get the tool rest as close as I would like mainly because the design of the banjo makes it awkward. It's not a great problem and I've been turning on this lathe for many years. But, four years ago I bought a cheap stick Aldi welder to make a 72"x2" belt grinder so I thought it's about time I made a new rest with more over-hang than my Record rest. It's made from angle iron bolted and welded to the stem which is a piece of cold chisel. Then I welded a piece of round steel bar to the angle iron.
Does anyone know the shade of green that Record uses? The one I've sprayed this with is Racing Green apparently. 

Gary


----------



## Noho12C

I made a pair of danish stools, following Richard Maguire's video. Very enjoyable project, using very little timber but quite challenging with the joinery. Also, first time doing weaving. Takes quite a bit of time, but fun.


----------



## Lefley

Okay, I think really getting the hang of this carving stuff!


----------



## Droogs

Joking aside, that newel post is spectacular


----------



## Lefley

Droogs said:


> Joking aside, that newel post is spectacular


Yes, gone are the days where people put money into art in there homes. The post is spectacular. I remember when I was youhg going to grammas house with the huge stairs and banister rails. And the entrance on the deck with the countless hours of man work in the details of the posts etc. and every house on the street was the same. A carpenter was a carpenter with countless planes and chisels in there kit.


----------



## clogs

I agree......
shame about the wallpaper tho.....
Bates Motel or Psycho.....lol.....


----------



## clogs

Lefley, 
u have a tradition of jobbing carpenters over there.....they were well regarded I believe....
still copied a lot......
not so much here.....
besides our normal houses u cant swing a cat, let alone have a decent staircase....
the Victoreans were the last users of good carpentry style in general use I beleive....


----------



## Dynamite

Mobile table saw cart. Just made it out of chipboard I was throwing. I don’t like throwing things that can be re-used. I know it’s not a a chippendale and it’s pretty ugly but I’m happy.


----------



## Lefley

Dynamite said:


> Mobile table saw cart. Just made it out of chipboard I was throwing. I don’t like throwing things that can be re-used. I know it’s not a a chippendale and it’s pretty ugly but I’m happy.
> 
> 
> View attachment 127717


My best builds are the ones that make our tools look good and make them more function-able. I love the Henry vacuum! They are soooo expensive here in Canada.


----------



## MARK.B.

What a cracking pair Stig  The Wood Stands work really nice and enhances the look ,acrylic just would not have the same effect imho


----------



## Richardsth

My last porch that I made from oak. Working with Oak is brutal on hobbyist kit!


----------



## NickVanBeest

Baby plant shelf installed...


----------



## Stigmorgan

MARK.B. said:


> What a cracking pair Stig  The Wood Stands work really nice and enhances the look ,acrylic just would not have the same effect imho


Thanks Mark, my next task is to box them up, I have a long cardboard box that will be perfect, just need to find and shape some foam to fit in the box to present them.


----------



## jcassidy

Got tired of the pillar drill taking space on my temp bench so knocked together a flip top cabinet thing. Then of course I had to make one for the bandsaw, which doubles as a mitre saw stand. All stuff I had onhand - chipboard from dismantled inbuilts, assorted hardware, etc. Heights are slightly askew because the band saw is taller than the pillar drill, that's what you get for not planning anything. I imagine putting them on smaller wheels and fitting them under my bench, when I get around to making one.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Nothing complicated, but while some epoxied cracks were curing on a couple of slabs i decided to give my drill press a little upgrade.


----------



## Padster

First attempt at something smaller on my new lathe rather than the Proxxon mini I had been using for this type of stuff, in case you can't guess pocket penlight made with Acrylic.














Regards

Padster


----------



## Krisskross

Lefley said:


> This one I was finishing for secret Santa. when my wife saw it, View attachment 126470
> I was forbidden to sending it to anyone. It was going in her personal collection she said.


Wow, that is beautiful, it would be a keeper for me too


----------



## Jameshow

Richardsth said:


> My last porch that I made from oak. Working with Oak is brutal on hobbyist kit!View attachment 127752
> View attachment 127753
> View attachment 127754


Nooooo! I have a load of oak flooring to use!


----------



## Orraloon

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Nothing complicated, but while some epoxied cracks were curing on a couple of slabs i decided to give my drill press a little upgrade.
> 
> View attachment 127784
> 
> 
> View attachment 127785


Dont know the reason but a wood handle always looks better than plastic.
Regards
John


----------



## Stigmorgan

A little cherry pot with a bark inclusion, sanded to 320 then abrasive paste followed by 2 coats of yandles diamond wax polish.


----------



## Razeal

I made some play blocks for my niece and nephew. Made out of utile, with a finger-jointed box (also utile). Was a lot of fun, except for the moment I realised that the finger joints didn't line up (somehow I'd made a few gaps too wide and so the fingers went out of alignment, had to fix with chisels and shims). My first time using a table saw, first time doing thicknessing, and first time edge-jointing too. 

Left the blocks unfinished for now as they'll be chewed on by a toddler. The box is finished with danish oil, and thinking about adding a wax coat over that.

Valuable lessons learned ... sand long lengths of wood _before_ cutting them into hundreds of short lengths of wood. Don't forget to wipe off excess oil after each coat, oops. Shop around for wood, and don't be scared of sawn boards, they can be tamed. Don't fill every space with tools or there's nowhere to put the current project.


----------



## John Webber

Here's a custom built cherry wood door frame indoors I fabricated antinstalled


----------



## MARK.B.

Try to post the pic please John


----------



## MARK.B.

Like that bowl Stig, unusual shape but a rather nice one


----------



## Stigmorgan

MARK.B. said:


> Like that bowl Stig, unusual shape but a rather nice one


Thanks Mark, I was trying to Make shapes with the grain by making shapes with the wood, I think it worked 

Made a couple of pieces from silver birch today, a plain bowl and a spalted tray type thing

























I got way too close at the bottom of the bowl and made it paper thin so filled the chuck mortise with resin to strengthen it and stop it breaking


----------



## John Webber

MARK.B. said:


> Try to post the pic please John


Oops! I forgot to add the file.


----------



## paulrbarnard

John Webber said:


> Oops! I forgot to add the file.


Very nice!


----------



## kinverkid

John Webber said:


> Oops! I forgot to add the file.


Lovely job.


----------



## MARK.B.

Like the platter type thingy Stig and i will say a prayer in the hope that bowl makes it to its 1st Birthday


----------



## Stigmorgan

MARK.B. said:


> Like the platter type thingy Stig and i will say a prayer in the hope that bowl makes it to its 1st Birthday


It probably won't, it's a bit too thin all round to be honest, and I expect the cracks will travel over time, the wood was bone dry so won't shrink any more but I've used walnut oil for the finish so it will likely move to some degree.


----------



## Padster

First 50 Calibre Pen, made with Wenge















Regards

Padster


----------



## RichardG

My wife wanted an art sculpture for the garden, but for some reason she didn't like it, so it's now available to buy from "Modern W a n k" for £500.

The bottom two holes, orientated the same way, divert the bad energy away from the sculpture, the 3rd hole captures the good energy and funnels it upwards to the top hole which being none continuous radiates the captured good energy around the sculpture. Standing in it's vicinity gives you a general feeling of well being.


----------



## akirk

I would buy it - but it is too cheap and no-one would be impressed by my being able to afford a sculpture for £500. Shame really - had you asked for £500k it would have been in the running, sadly this year's funding cycle has now closed...


----------



## Farm Labourer

Richard G - do not let your neighbour's wife, the one with the MA in Fine Arts see this as the juxtaposition of it will have her wanting me to produce a less-edgy version for installation on the south terrace (patio - to you and me!) for her Spring/Summer exhibition!

ps - I can see my land from that photo!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Had a productive day yesterday, finished a small sycamore pot and started a much larger one, the larger blank was a little over 9"x9"x4" so had to trim the corners to make it fit the lathe, it is now approximately 8" across and 3.5" deep, its very soft so once to shape I soaked it in wood hardener, next I will finish cut/scrape the tool marks from the outside turn it around and hollow it.























Your browser is not able to display this video.


----------



## NickVanBeest

Finally added the wheels to my workbench!


----------



## Garno

A little paper knife for Mrs G (Photo's are not doing it justice)


----------



## MARK.B.

No sure Garno the photo's I cant see at all


----------



## Garno

MARK.B. said:


> No sure Garno the photo's I cant see at all


 Sorry they would not upload for some reason, should be OK now


----------



## MARK.B.

Nope,did you cross your fingers and pray to the gods before pressing send ,try that mate,work's for me most of the time 
Edit , Oopps my bad  ,had i scrolled up, all would have been revealed  that looks really nice and Tidy to my old eyes


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

Had a slightly rough work week so (as usual) nothing very impressive, but I did knock up some walnut blocks to fit the flip stops to my mitre gauge fence.


----------



## Tcrowe

Finished up a desk for my mam this week. Happy with how it turned out


----------



## mikdagreek

The last thing I made was an oak pot draining rack for the kitchen sink.


----------



## TomB

mikdagreek said:


> The last thing I made was an oak pot draining rack for the kitchen sink.


Nice. 
The tiles too.


----------



## city17

Restored this old wooden jointer plane from the Dutch brand Nooitgedagt.





Flattened the sole and added infill to close the mouth. It was only taking really thick shavings before, now it can go a lot finer.


----------



## thetyreman

made a door threshold, it's made out of a firedoor blank offcut so looks a bit weird but it'll be painted anyway, it's for a soundproof door I am working on for my studio.


----------



## Woodwork Journey Dean

I

I made a wall mount for my planes and stuff recently. It’s one of those things that is ok from a distance


----------



## Garno

A couple of acrylic pens.

These are ideal for arthritis sufferers as it helps them get a firm grip of the pen.


----------



## RichardG

I've always struggled to get consistent photos of objects so I decided to make a light tent/box. Version 1 used some plastic bags that did a good job of light diffusing, trouble was all the lamps I tried seemed to cause flicker when taking a photo and each had their own light temperature. Had the bright idea of swapping the bulbs for old tungsten ones but I let one get too close and it melted the diffuser! The other issue I found was that the natural light around the tent was also throwing the colour temp off so in the end I moved to version 2. The backdrop is missing from the photos, everything painted with Dulux Trade brilliant white.








Version 2 was another box. This time I made some light panels up from 3m of LED strip I'd bought for another project but never used, cost £4.50!.

This works really well, very consistent, not effected by abient light and has the added advantage that I don't have to go and collect the lamps everytime I want to take a picture. I found the quality coming out of my iPhone was also more than acceptable providing I did a white balance on the background.









And the resulting picture of a new bowl.


----------



## Smike

city17 said:


> Restored this old wooden jointer plane from the Dutch brand Nooitgedagt.
> 
> View attachment 128225
> 
> Flattened the sole and added infill to close the mouth. It was only taking really thick shavings before, now it can go a lot finer.
> 
> View attachment 128226


 Lovely


----------



## gregmcateer

Nice light box, sir. And lovely bowl, too!


----------



## TominDales

Stigmorgan said:


> Absolutely gorgeous bench, a real shame they don't like them being treated/protected.


Just seen this. Whilst I can understand the non oil policy of NT, they really should be put under cover over winter, even it its just under a tarpaulin behind a shed, that would double or treble the life of these lovely benches. I've adopted my mums tried of method of spring clean, using some Jays fluid, it washes off the green and they stay a nice shade of grey all summer. It does arest the decline, although the wood dries out over time.
Jay isn't nice stuff, although it has natural phenols in it. But a bucket of diluted jays goes a very long way, can do a dozen green bits of furniture, and a lot less effort than soap and water. The bucket ends up very green by the end. Just careful where to pour the waste away.


----------



## Cooper

city17 said:


> Dutch brand Nooitgedagt


If I remember my Dutch, Nooitgedagt means: Never thought of. Interesting, as lovely as it is there must have been plenty of other similar wooden planes. Nice job though.


----------



## city17

Cooper said:


> If I remember my Dutch, Nooitgedagt means: Never thought of. Interesting, as lovely as it is there must have been plenty of other similar wooden planes. Nice job though.


That's right, it's an interesting name that I've never encountered before except for this old brand. There's a ton of these out there on the used market here in the Netherlands. Going for about €20. 

They're quite basic planes, definitely not as nice as the German ECE or Ulmia wooden jointers, but a lot cheaper. Biggest downside is that they're not wide, this one uses standard No 4 blade.


----------



## Woodfield

Hello everyone. New to the forum and new to woodworking.

This weekend I finished this picnic bench made from old pallet wood.


----------



## Orraloon

Nothing like improving the dining habits of the local wildlife. 
Regards
John


----------



## Stigmorgan

Spalted Sycamore bowl, 7.5 inches by 3 inches, it was a nightmare to finish, no matter how sharp I got the gouge there was loads of tear out so ended up doing a massive amount of sanding starting at 40grit up to 400 then hit it twice with abrasive paste and 2 coats of hardwax finish.


----------



## akirk

Playing with pens
Padauk and purpleheart for one and then oak with purpleheart for the other - the purpleheart will go more purple as it is exposed to daylight…


----------



## Doug B

Had my coat on today at the lathe to turn this rustic mushroom from very green Sycamore given to me at the weekend






The tree was felled Saturday & I was told I could have as much as I wanted as long as I cut it up so I turned the mushroom as a thank you






Apart from some bits for turning I also got the first 6' section of trunk Which is going to get planked eventually






On my way home from fetching the Sycamore I called on a mate who surprised me with this lovely chunk of Hawthorne, all in all a good weekend.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Doug B said:


> Had my coat on today at the lathe to turn this rustic mushroom from very green Sycamore given to me at the weekend
> 
> View attachment 128419
> 
> 
> The tree was felled Saturday & I was told I could have as much as I wanted as long as I cut it up so I turned the mushroom as a thank you
> 
> View attachment 128417
> 
> 
> Apart from some bits for turning I also got the first 6' section of trunk Which is going to get planked eventually
> 
> View attachment 128418
> 
> 
> On my way home from fetching the Sycamore I called on a mate who surprised me with this lovely chunk of Hawthorne, all in all a good weekend.
> View attachment 128416


As I said on IG, that mushroom is going to look awesome as I'd dries and weathers, that Hawthorn piece is gorgeous


----------



## Doug B

Stigmorgan said:


> As I said on IG, that mushroom is going to look awesome as I'd dries and weathers, that Hawthorn piece is gorgeous


Hopefully it will, I took it over last night & it was gratefully received so that was nice. I agree about the Hawthorn hopefully I’ll have time at the weekend to cut it up & see what useful timber I can get out of it.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Doug B said:


> Hopefully it will, I took it over last night & it was gratefully received so that was nice. I agree about the Hawthorn hopefully I’ll have time at the weekend to cut it up & see what useful timber I can get out of it.


I have several smaller pieces out in the school grounds, they've been out there years but seem to still be pretty solid, planning to bring them in at some point and mount on the lathe, I've been told it's a nice wood to turn.


----------



## kinverkid

Doug B said:


> Hopefully it will, I took it over last night & it was gratefully received so that was nice. I agree about the Hawthorn hopefully I’ll have time at the weekend to cut it up & see what useful timber I can get out of it.


I'm jealous of that Hawthorn too. I've turned quite a few pieces from it but they all tend to be small because they come from the firewood pile and the larger pieces have been split to size already.


----------



## kinverkid

This isn't the last thing I made. In fact I made it a while back and intended to post it after I had given it as a 'big birthday' present (along with other gifts). Then forgot to post it. So here it is. It's Robinia burr riddled with woodworm (log dead). Voids and worm holes filled with resin and glitter.
















It's somewhere around 120 x 120mm.

Gary


----------



## Phil Pascoe

akirk said:


> Playing with pens
> Padauk and purpleheart for one and then oak with purpleheart for the other - the purpleheart will go more purple as it is exposed to daylight…
> View attachment 128450
> View attachment 128451


I thought purpleheart went brown with air exposure?


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Doug B said:


> Had my coat on today at the lathe to turn this rustic mushroom from very green Sycamore given to me at the weekend
> 
> View attachment 128419
> 
> 
> The tree was felled Saturday & I was told I could have as much as I wanted as long as I cut it up so I turned the mushroom as a thank you
> 
> View attachment 128417
> 
> 
> Apart from some bits for turning I also got the first 6' section of trunk Which is going to get planked eventually
> 
> View attachment 128418
> 
> 
> On my way home from fetching the Sycamore I called on a mate who surprised me with this lovely chunk of Hawthorne, all in all a good weekend.
> View attachment 128416


From what I've read your sycamore should be stood on end to season so any sap runs down. It's supposed to help with its not staining.


----------



## Smike

Stigmorgan said:


> Spalted Sycamore bowl, 7.5 inches by 3 inches, it was a nightmare to finish, no matter how sharp I got the gouge there was loads of tear out so ended up doing a massive amount of sanding starting at 40grit up to 400 then hit it twice with abrasive paste and 2 coats of hardwax finish.
> View attachment 128438
> View attachment 128439
> View attachment 128440
> View attachment 128441
> View attachment 128442


Lovely job


----------



## Smike

akirk said:


> Playing with pens
> Padauk and purpleheart for one and then oak with purpleheart for the other - the purpleheart will go more purple as it is exposed to daylight…
> View attachment 128450
> View attachment 128451


Lovely


----------



## Doug B

Phil Pascoe said:


> From what I've read your sycamore should be stood on end to season so any sap runs down. It's supposed to help with its not staining.


Yes it is best stood on end I’ve seasoned quite a lot of it, a spray with a fungicide is a good idea as well


----------



## Jameshow

Doug B said:


> Had my coat on today at the lathe to turn this rustic mushroom from very green Sycamore given to me at the weekend
> 
> View attachment 128419
> 
> 
> The tree was felled Saturday & I was told I could have as much as I wanted as long as I cut it up so I turned the mushroom as a thank you
> 
> View attachment 128417
> 
> 
> Apart from some bits for turning I also got the first 6' section of trunk Which is going to get planked eventually
> 
> View attachment 128418
> 
> 
> On my way home from fetching the Sycamore I called on a mate who surprised me with this lovely chunk of Hawthorne, all in all a good weekend.
> View attachment 128416


I have a big 4' length of cherry is that worth cutting up into boards?


----------



## Doug B

Jameshow said:


> I have a big 4' length of cherry is that worth cutting up into boards?


I would, if you can get some useable timber out of it why not


----------



## MARK.B.

Phil Pascoe said:


> I thought purpleheart went brown with air exposure?


Only used it a few times and each piece went brownish over time


----------



## akirk

Phil Pascoe said:


> I thought purpleheart went brown with air exposure?


Maybe it does - not sure 
However, when you cut purpleheart, the cut surface is brown, sit it on the shelf and it goes purple
The purpleheart pen I made the other day was fairly brown when I made it and is now very purple - took about a week to go purple
so far all the pieces of purpleheart sitting on my shelves in the workshop have stayed purple, I have only seen a change from brown to purple...

looking into it further - it appears that it changes twice...

_Freshly cut Purple Heart slabs can appear a dull gray or brown color. It turns purple upon exposure to air and light pretty quickly too. After just a few short days of exposure to air and light, the color change is abrupt. A Purple Heart project exposed to air and light will darken to a dark brown over time if kept indoors. An exterior Purple Heart project will age to a silver color, just like most other woods exposed to the outdoor elements. _

So, I expect that you need to let it go purple, and then UV protect it to stop it going back to brown...


----------



## kinverkid

I damaged a piece of 500mm left and 500mm right self adhesive measuring tape and didn't want to waste it. I saw this trammel style compass on Hammer Sounds YouTube channel a while back so I thought I would give it a go. I cut the tape in the middle and used the right side. The trammel is around 650mm long even though the tape is only 0.5m.


----------



## D_W

not finished, but just got linseed oil on two guitar parts of a les paul style guitar (the first opportunity to see what color it will be with some warmth - hoping for deep brown on the rosewood, a nice straw color on the limba (back of the guitar body) and a good but not tasteless or harsh looking figure on the laminated neck). 

Finish will be shellac (applied french polish, and thin, so I can freely play the guitar without caring about chipping finish. 












Always nice to build with pretty wood to cover up your mistakes a little.


----------



## Kicked Back

D_W said:


> not finished, but just got linseed oil on two guitar parts of a les paul style guitar (the first opportunity to see what color it will be with some warmth - hoping for deep brown on the rosewood, a nice straw color on the limba (back of the guitar body) and a good but not tasteless or harsh looking figure on the laminated neck).
> 
> Finish will be shellac (applied french polish, and thin, so I can freely play the guitar without caring about chipping finish.



Amazing work. That neck 

What's your approach to getting the neck dead straight across its profile? I have no problem shaping the neck (faceting with rasps) but then get stuck in an endless loop of chasing little high/low spots around in the sanding. It's getting to the point where I'm either going to make a router neck carving jig or make a sanding block that's exactly the same length as the distance from volute to heel and sand perpendicular to the neck!

Thanks


----------



## clogs

shouldn't Doug B's Sycamore get cut to planks very quickly before the ends split....
just askin....


----------



## Jameshow

D_W said:


> not finished, but just got linseed oil on two guitar parts of a les paul style guitar (the first opportunity to see what color it will be with some warmth - hoping for deep brown on the rosewood, a nice straw color on the limba (back of the guitar body) and a good but not tasteless or harsh looking figure on the laminated neck).
> 
> Finish will be shellac (applied french polish, and thin, so I can freely play the guitar without caring about chipping finish.
> 
> View attachment 128571
> View attachment 128572
> View attachment 128573
> 
> 
> Always nice to build with pretty wood to cover up your mistakes a little.


I bet the turner are saying that would have made a lovely platter!! 

Lovely work!!


----------



## Jameshow

clogs said:


> shouldn't Doug B's Sycamore get cut to planks very quickly before the ends split....
> just askin....


Same with cherry? 

I was thinking about this if I chainsaw it in half and the circular saw into 30mm boards off the flat?


----------



## clogs

or find someone/joiners with a big bandsaw to do it........?


----------



## D_W

Kicked Back said:


> Amazing work. That neck
> 
> What's your approach to getting the neck dead straight across its profile? I have no problem shaping the neck (faceting with rasps) but then get stuck in an endless loop of chasing little high/low spots around in the sanding. It's getting to the point where I'm either going to make a router neck carving jig or make a sanding block that's exactly the same length as the distance from volute to heel and sand perpendicular to the neck!
> 
> Thanks



I start with the whole thing just making a pair of collars at each end (cut ins that are fat of the profile in the profile corners, if you know what I mean (like left fat like an old cheap telecaster deluxe neck) and then remove the wood between the two and then work the volute and heel area by eye to blend it. 

Then I go back and do the same thing again hitting close to the final target thickness at the first fret and an inch or two above the heel and move everything down. 

The part about keeping the neck straight along the length across all parts of the profile is helped by doing some of the final work with a skewed nicholson supershear (I buy those any time they come up on ebay for cheap and have half a lifetime's supply now). They're a little grabby, but used on the diagonal and then rubbed flat on the neck, they take high spots off well - it's still a bit of a feel thing and by eye. I guess the initial shaping from a completely rough blank is about an hour and then the remaining stuff I tend to do in one or two sessions just to make sure I get to look at everything a few times (and of course, the last of it is done with the fingerboard on. I sort of learned on this one that it would be better to leave the neck a bit fat and trim it to the binding later. I trimmed the neck slightly thin figuring I'd get the binding on and then shape the binding down to the neck and it worked oK. 

But the files/super shears are great in the last bits of it because they're flat and straight and you can use them any direction. without hurting too much and then just card scrape off their marks. 

Around the volute, I have a sawmaker's rasp to blend things in, and then scrape that off, too, and finish sand - that's helpful at the volute and heel because it doesn't leave deep marks or flat facets.


----------



## D_W

Jameshow said:


> I bet the turner are saying that would have made a lovely platter!!
> 
> Lovely work!!



There's probably acoustic guitar makers somewhere thinking it's a waste, too! I've heard from one - a friend - already. "why waste wood that nice on the top of a solid body guitar?"

There's a lot of plantation wood being grown in india now (E. Indian rosewood), but it does seem to be a trick to find the really nice billets without going directly to india (which I think is a risk - guitar parts are exempt from CITES for E. Indian rosewood now, but they're supposed to be finished to some level). I see lots of big wood like this listed from india but when I check with the sellers there, they all say "no paperwork, customs not a problem, sir". 

Sure.


----------



## Garno

Acrylic pen suitable for those with arthritis in their hands.


----------



## MARK.B.

Like the colours on that one Garno ,very nice


----------



## Distinterior

About 5 years ago, a good mate of mine had to have an Oak tree cut down in his garden for various reasons....He asked me if I wanted any of it and, of course, I said yes.
After it had been felled, it lay on the ground for about a month before he & I managed to find the time to manhandle a couple of decent sized bits up his garden and into the back of my van.
I kept the logs in my workshop for about another month or so before re-sawing them into planks and putting them in stick.

5 years on, it was coming up to his 60th birthday ( my 60th in 2 weeks as well...) and i thought I'd make him a decorative mitered box out of the Oak from his garden.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that some of the planks had Spalted, so i picked a couple that were not too punky and the pictures below are the result.
It's a bit rustic, but hopefully he will like it...!

Finish was 4 coats of Sanding Sealer, flatted down between coats and final coat of Microcrystalline Wax, buffed.

Size is 360mm wide x 190mm deep x 100mm high and lined with self adhesive black felt. All the Oak is about 9mm thick.


----------



## Coyote

Front garden fence. I think it’s referred to as “board on board” style in the US, not sure what the appropriate term is over here. Posts have been capped since I took the photos. I took the easy way out with the gates, didn’t have time to muck them up. Still got some patching to do to the drive to finish off. Not sure whether to stain it or let it silver.


----------



## Smike

Valentines Day approaching, so made this. Plans on YouTube for free.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Small oak dish from a sleeper offcut, the top is slightly coloured with a little red food colouring mixed with acetone, applied and once dry lightly sanded back, 












Just for fun 3 little plant pot shapes from a silver birch branch, all 3 sanded to 320, on the left is bare wood/unfinished, centre is abrasive paste and hard wax, right is friction polish.


----------



## paulrbarnard

Distinterior said:


> About 5 years ago, a good mate of mine had to have an Oak tree cut down in his garden for various reasons....He asked me if I wanted any of it and, of course, I said yes.
> After it had been felled, it lay on the ground for about a month before he & I managed to find the time to manhandle a couple of decent sized bits up his garden and into the back of my van.
> I kept the logs in my workshop for about another month or so before re-sawing them into planks and putting them in stick.
> 
> 5 years on, it was coming up to his 60th birthday ( my 60th in 2 weeks as well...) and i thought I'd make him a decorative mitered box out of the Oak from his garden.
> 
> I was pleasantly surprised to find that some of the planks had Spalted, so i picked a couple that were not too punky and the pictures below are the result.
> It's a bit rustic, but hopefully he will like it...!
> 
> Finish was 4 coats of Sanding Sealer, flatted down between coats and final coat of Microcrystalline Wax, buffed.
> 
> Size is 360mm wide x 190mm deep x 100mm high and lined with self adhesive black felt. All the Oak is about 9mm thick.
> 
> View attachment 128626
> View attachment 128627
> View attachment 128628
> View attachment 128629
> View attachment 128630
> View attachment 128631


That is really nice!


----------



## paulrbarnard

Smike said:


> Valentines Day approaching, so made this. Plans on YouTube for free.


Could you point to the plan? That might get me off the hook for this year


----------



## Jameshow

Distinterior said:


> About 5 years ago, a good mate of mine had to have an Oak tree cut down in his garden for various reasons....He asked me if I wanted any of it and, of course, I said yes.
> After it had been felled, it lay on the ground for about a month before he & I managed to find the time to manhandle a couple of decent sized bits up his garden and into the back of my van.
> I kept the logs in my workshop for about another month or so before re-sawing them into planks and putting them in stick.
> 
> 5 years on, it was coming up to his 60th birthday ( my 60th in 2 weeks as well...) and i thought I'd make him a decorative mitered box out of the Oak from his garden.
> 
> I was pleasantly surprised to find that some of the planks had Spalted, so i picked a couple that were not too punky and the pictures below are the result.
> It's a bit rustic, but hopefully he will like it...!
> 
> Finish was 4 coats of Sanding Sealer, flatted down between coats and final coat of Microcrystalline Wax, buffed.
> 
> Size is 360mm wide x 190mm deep x 100mm high and lined with self adhesive black felt. All the Oak is about 9mm thick.
> 
> View attachment 128626
> View attachment 128627
> View attachment 128628
> View attachment 128629
> View attachment 128630
> View attachment 128631


I'm 60 next week can I be your mate..... 

Lovely work! 

Ps I'm not 60 just yet!


----------



## Smike

paulrbarnard said:


> Could you point to the plan? That might get me off the hook for this year


Ok. I’ll copy a link.


----------



## Smike

Smike said:


> Ok. I’ll copy a link.


----------



## Fred48

Distinterior said:


> About 5 years ago, a good mate of mine had to have an Oak tree cut down in his garden for various reasons....He asked me if I wanted any of it and, of course, I said yes.
> After it had been felled, it lay on the ground for about a month before he & I managed to find the time to manhandle a couple of decent sized bits up his garden and into the back of my van.
> I kept the logs in my workshop for about another month or so before re-sawing them into planks and putting them in stick.
> 
> 5 years on, it was coming up to his 60th birthday ( my 60th in 2 weeks as well...) and i thought I'd make him a decorative mitered box out of the Oak from his garden.
> 
> I was pleasantly surprised to find that some of the planks had Spalted, so i picked a couple that were not too punky and the pictures below are the result.
> It's a bit rustic, but hopefully he will like it...!
> 
> Finish was 4 coats of Sanding Sealer, flatted down between coats and final coat of Microcrystalline Wax, buffed.
> 
> Size is 360mm wide x 190mm deep x 100mm high and lined with self adhesive black felt. All the Oak is about 9mm thick.
> 
> View attachment 128626
> View attachment 128627
> View attachment 128628
> View attachment 128629
> View attachment 128630
> View attachment 128631


That's a beautiful box


----------



## Doug B

Definitely the last thing I made as I’ve only just finished gluing them up, 2 pine internal doors which will be fitted next week with a bit of luck.


----------



## WoodchipWilbur

Doug B said:


> ... which will be fitted next week with a bit of luck.


That's interesting... I generally use hinges. 

(Sorry - wrong thread, but the Joke Thread is getting a bit unfunny too.)


----------



## Stigmorgan

Our godson and his fiance have just put in a successful offer to buy their first flat, I am so proud of them both, he was recently accepted into the police force which has been a dream of his since he was at school and she has recently qualified as a school teacher (as a school caretaker I can honestly say there isn't enough money or alcohol in the world to get me to do that job) I told them I would like to make them a homewarming gift and asked if there's anything they would like, having both looked at some of my creations they both liked a little two sided tray thing I recently made so asked if I could make them a key tray each, this got me pretty excited to make something and immediately came up with 2 ideas, first was to turn a thick walled tray and split it in half to make them wall mounted and my other idea was to make 2 from 1 piece of wood, they said they would prefer loose table top so out I went to see what I had, I decided on a piece of cherry and mounted it between centres, I then took my parting tool to the middle and reduced a 1/2 inch width down to about 50mm then in the centre I parted through to create 2 pieces with a tenon, then mounted, trued up the bottom and created a recess, sanded to 320, abrasive paste and hard wax finish, flipped it over, hollowed and repeated then repeated the whole process for the second one, im supernhappy with hoentheyve come out, not a perfect bookmatch of eachother but good enough.


----------



## Adam W.

kinverkid said:


> This isn't the last thing I made. In fact I made it a while back and intended to post it after I had given it as a 'big birthday' present (along with other gifts). Then forgot to post it. So here it is. It's Robinia burr riddled with woodworm (log dead). Voids and worm holes filled with resin and glitter.
> 
> View attachment 128459
> 
> 
> View attachment 128460
> 
> 
> View attachment 128461
> 
> 
> It's somewhere around 120 x 120mm.
> 
> Gary


I got a large lump of robinia last week for a chopping stump, it's up for grabs when I'm finished with it, if anyone wants it. (Send me a PM. Collect in Kennington, London in April)

I'll keep an eye out if they're felling more and grab the burl.


----------



## Lefley

Fresh off the large. Maple Burl, about 12 inch round.


----------



## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> Our godson and his fiance have just put in a successful offer to buy their first flat, I am so proud of them both, he was recently accepted into the police force which has been a dream of his since he was at school and she has recently qualified as a school teacher (as a school caretaker I can honestly say there isn't enough money or alcohol in the world to get me to do that job) I told them I would like to make them a homewarming gift and asked if there's anything they would like, having both looked at some of my creations they both liked a little two sided tray thing I recently made so asked if I could make them a key tray each, this got me pretty excited to make something and immediately came up with 2 ideas, first was to turn a thick walled tray and split it in half to make them wall mounted and my other idea was to make 2 from 1 piece of wood, they said they would prefer loose table top so out I went to see what I had, I decided on a piece of cherry and mounted it between centres, I then took my parting tool to the middle and reduced a 1/2 inch width down to about 50mm then in the centre I parted through to create 2 pieces with a tenon, then mounted, trued up the bottom and created a recess, sanded to 320, abrasive paste and hard wax finish, flipped it over, hollowed and repeated then repeated the whole process for the second one, im supernhappy with hoentheyve come out, not a perfect bookmatch of eachother but good enough.
> View attachment 128757
> View attachment 128758
> View attachment 128759


Very nice. I love natural edge bowls.


----------



## Lefley

WoodchipWilbur said:


> That's interesting... I generally use hinges.
> 
> (Sorry - wrong thread, but the Joke Thread is getting a bit unfunny too.)


What! I’m going to have to go over there and post some Canadian jokes.


----------



## kinverkid

Lefley said:


> Fresh off the large. Maple Burl, about 12 inch round.


Beautiful. The photographs will not do it justice. I know if I held that bowl in my hands and moved it around in the light I would see a 3D-like silky shimmer in the maple.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> Very nice. I love natural edge bowls.


This cherry seems to be very good at holding onto the bark, and cuts very nicely, only issues I'm having is finding beetle larvae eating their way through between the wood and bark, these 2 and the previous piece I made had the little horrors alive and fat chewing their way through.


----------



## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> This cherry seems to be very good at holding onto the bark, and cuts very nicely, only issues I'm having is finding beetle larvae eating their way through between the wood and bark, these 2 and the previous piece I made had the little horrors alive and fat chewing their way through.


Ca glue the bark on while turning, and microwave the bowls to kill any sneaky hiding eggs or larva.,


----------



## NickVanBeest

Nothing fancy this week, just some much needed shop organising...


----------



## Adam W.

Tidy!


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Got in some reps doing butterfly/bowtie/dovetail keys (who knows which term is correct!?). As usual i overcomplicate things for myself, so the design and shape i came up with was far from straightforward to do. As well as hogging out as much of the waste i could with a 1/4” bit on a plunge router, i needed to use every single one of these chisels, as well as a scalpel!! Hopefully they’ll look good once the epoxy is dry and it’s planed down…


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Got in some reps doing butterfly/bowtie/dovetail keys


They're lovely those.
Must be difficult to cut out for sure


----------



## blackteaonesugar

I made a couple of tables for a bar, one of which is a very long (2.6m) 'Sommelier' table which for the un-cultured like myself, is a wine expert.





















They're not fully finished yet. They'll be ebonised, bronze socks painted onto the tapered legs and a cnc cut fluted surround apron fitted onto the plywood upper section.


----------



## dzj

blackteaonesugar said:


> I made a couple of tables for a bar, one of which is a very long (2.6m) 'Sommelier' table which for the un-cultured like myself, is a wine expert.
> 
> View attachment 128882
> 
> View attachment 128883
> 
> View attachment 128884
> 
> View attachment 128885
> 
> View attachment 128886
> 
> They're not fully finished yet. They'll be ebonised, bronze socks painted onto the tapered legs and a cnc cut fluted surround apron fitted onto the plywood upper section.


Looks interesting. What is the purpose of the circular indentations on the table top?


----------



## Stigmorgan

dzj said:


> Looks interesting. What is the purpose of the circular indentations on the table top?


I believe those are place settings for wine tasting


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Aye. They'll be in the restaurant/bar as you go in, full of different wines.
Red in the smaller front ones (room temp)
White in jackets to keep cool at the back.
Then the Sommelier will presumably tell you which wine goes best with your chips.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

That'll be the French one.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Well, today was not a good day, as I've shown my successes I will show my failure too, I recently saw YouTube vid where the Turner made a sphere with a ring similar to Saturn and I thought a piece of my cherry would look amazing so off I went, I got outside shape fairly close to round and sanded up to 320, I should have stopped there for the day but I stupidly kept going and ended up taking too much from the wall and ended up with a tiny dish instead.


----------



## paulrbarnard

Smike said:


>



Many thanks for providing the link. I went to the YouTubers blog and discovered the plans were pdf as part of a whole document. As I was intending to use my laser cutter I downloaded the PDF, image cropped out one of the plans then converted it to SVG vector format. Now that I have it as an SVG it is scallable to any size and easy to tweak the design. I decided I would make it a bit more delicate by using the same perforated heart design for the back as for the front and modified the insert pieces to match. I changed the round holes in the large cog (yes it is a cog as it is made of wood) to be hearts as well. 
This is my quick attempt this morning.




It is a bit smaller than the origional at 30mm high. I used a 4mm thick slice of maple and the insert are glued with CA glue.. The pins are the same maple taken down to 2.3mm with sand paper in a chuck. They are a press fit in the 2mm holes I put in the hearts and the holes in the cogs are 2.3 so a good fit but not tight. It is a very satisfying fiddle toy  I used a needle file to clean the laser burn off of the outside edge but left it in the cutout as it adds some nice contrast to it. It is finished with Libron wax





I will do another one and modify the hanging loop to replace it with a metal ring captured in the upper insert. I don't think the wood loop will hold up too long.


----------



## gwaithcoed

Had a number of oak kitchen fitment doors given me and at my Daughters request made her this small folding table. Size 40x40x40cm. 
Alan


----------



## kinverkid

A steady is something I rarely use but each time I have needed one I've only had a rickety one that I made about twenty years ago. So, I thought I might use some off-cuts to knock one up. The plastic bar that is in the chuck on the lathe is what I turned the outer wheels from then inserted sealed bearings and attached the with M6 x 8mm collared bolts. I have one project that I need it for then it will probably wait another year befoe I use it again.


----------



## Callum

Finally finished this small garden bench, started it a good few months ago! Made of oak. 1st time doing draw bore mortise and tenons, and made the dowels with a dowel plate. Some sloppy joinery that I wasn’t happy overall with, but the pegs seemed to help stiffen it up, so we’ll just have to see how long it lasts outside  also I put some epoxy on the bottom of the legs to hopefully stop it drawing water up through them. Inspired by a bench made by mena woodwork as well so credit to their design!


----------



## Droogs

A few well placed 19mm holes, 1 decent holdfast and you will have a cracking little Roman style workbench to use in the garden. ☝


----------



## Phil Pascoe

A bit like my wheelchair friendly one -


----------



## PeteHB

A simple work bench and cheap vice for the son in law in an effort to keep him out of my workshop and away from my tools.


----------



## Jameshow

PeteHB said:


> A simple work bench and cheap vice for the son in law in an effort to keep him out of my workshop and away from my tools.
> 
> View attachment 129002


If it looks right it is right! Looks right me!!


----------



## NickDReed

Scrap Oak knife block. Feel like I need to re handle my knives now!


----------



## Stigmorgan

After an annual inspection of the schools PE and gym equipment one of the benches needed a new foot and another was condemned, after the engineer came and replaced the foot I made sure I grabbed the old one before he put it in the bin, once I cut it up I was left with a flat board and 2 small blocks,








Today I put one of the small blocks on the lathe and turned a small bowl, then I put the board on and turned a plate, the base is sanded to 320, abrasive paste then hard wax, I turned it and hollowed it, so far it's sanded to 120. The small blocks I think may be oak but I'm not sure, as for the board, I have no idea but the grain is stunning,


----------



## kinverkid

Stigmorgan said:


> The small blocks I think may be oak but I'm not sure, as for the board, I have no idea but the grain is stunning,


I agree that the grain is stunning and I don't have a clue what it is either. The two small bowls I think are beech and keeping the tenon in place was a nice move in my opinion.


----------



## Stigmorgan

kinverkid said:


> I agree that the grain is stunning and I don't have a clue what it is either. The two small bowls I think are beech and keeping the tenon in place was a nice move in my opinion.


 Thanks, I wanted to keep it's origin within the piece if that makes sense, plus the tenon went right through so couldn't turn it away, next week I will be cutting up the condemned bench and over the next year or so the PE teacher is planning to replace all 6 benches so I'll have loads to play with


----------



## kinverkid

Mmmmmm. Free wood.


----------



## DomDru

I was procrastinating about my larger project that is just entering CAD stage. Decided to make something small. My first carving of this scale.


----------



## martin.pearson

Wasn't going to post this as it's just a simple job but it had a nice story behind it lol

A customer came in just looking for a piece of hardwood for table tops for a couple of bedside tables, he had already bought hairpin legs & just needed a nice piece of wood for the tops. He thought Oak would be nice & as we talked about how he would go about making the tops it turned into could I cut the tops, chamfer the edges, attach the legs & give them a suitable finish.
He then asked if he could look at what wood I had & I told him that as he was looking for quite chunky tops I didn't have any suitable Oak but it was easy enough for me to pick up a nice piece. Seeming not content he had a look at what I had & after a few that's not going to be wide enough, that's not long enough to cut 2 tops from the size you want (none of which was Oak either) he spotted the bit of old snooker table that I cleaned up recently & posted on here to find out what wood it was.
As soon as I mentioned it was a part of an old snooker table his ears pricked up, when I mentioned that it had come from a place in Cowdenbeath his mind was made up & that was the wood he wanted used, he thinks that he actually played on this snooker table as a Kid lol
Thought that made a really interesting story & no doubt he will be able to tell all his friends stories about his time playing snooker on that table lol


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Got in some reps doing butterfly/bowtie/dovetail keys (who knows which term is correct!?). As usual i overcomplicate things for myself, so the design and shape i came up with was far from straightforward to do. As well as hogging out as much of the waste i could with a 1/4” bit on a plunge router, i needed to use every single one of these chisels, as well as a scalpel!! Hopefully they’ll look good once the epoxy is dry and it’s planed down…
> 
> View attachment 128804
> 
> View attachment 128805



They dont actually look too bad after flattening! Slab on left has nothing on and slab on right has some white spirit to see what it might look like with finish on. Obviously the slabs are Oak, but the keys are Gabon Ebony


----------



## Stigmorgan

So today I continued sanding and finishing the plate I started yesterday, here's a pic of before it was removed from the bench and a few of the finished items, 




















also thought I would have a go at making a baby rattle from a bit of oak, I mounted it between centres, cut a tenon on each end, parted it in the middle, hollowed both pieces leaving a tenon on one of them, put some plastic beads in and glued the two back together, next time I'm out there I will finalise the outer shape then decide what I'm going to do for the handle and the finish, I intend on it being a gift for a teacher at school that is expecting her first baby in April, not sure what finish to use though


----------



## Citracal

Small kitchen table in rippled ash for work.


----------



## starlingwood

Superking bed in oak. Domino got a load of action. Slats were beech. Finish osmo polyx. Designed on sketch up. Headboard upholstery sub contracted to sofa and chair company of London, very good job they did. Need to make matching bedside drawers now. Lights led strip on a twin motion sensor and dimmer.


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Gurt big bench for a Solihull Restaurant. Got to be upholstered/painted etc yet.


----------



## Stigmorgan

blackteaonesugar said:


> Gurt big bench for a Solihull Restaurant. Got to be upholstered/painted etc yet.
> View attachment 129217
> 
> View attachment 129218
> 
> View attachment 129219


Oh my, what a long one you have


----------



## paulrbarnard

A follow up to the geared heart pendent I made for my wife for valentines day. I decided it needed a box.


----------



## Garno

paulrbarnard said:


> A follow up to the geared heart pendent I made for my wife for valentines day. I decided it needed a box.
> View attachment 129258
> View attachment 129259
> View attachment 129260
> View attachment 129261




I got Mrs G a 1kg tin of CoffeeMate


----------



## Adam W.

Nice one Garno.


----------



## FlatlandsF7a

Finally finished the matching bedside table for the spare room. Only my second attempt at mitred corners (they have dowels inside for strength), and I'm pretty pleased. Mostly pleased because it looks like the first! Still need to work on my dovetails, but they're getting better and no-one is going to look too closely at these (apart from you people....).

600x400x400mm made from one board of 50mm roughsawn oak resawn to a finished 25mm board (outside) and a 15mm board for insides and drawers.


----------



## kinverkid

Garno said:


> I got Mrs G a 1kg tin of CoffeeMate


I've booked us a table but I'm not sure if she likes snooker. May have to resort to billiards. I'll update you if I have any fingers left intact.


----------



## Jameshow

kinverkid said:


> I've booked us a table but I'm not sure if she likes snooker. May have to resort to billiards. I'll update you if I have any fingers left intact.


I've got her a Stanley no5.5 I hope she likes it!! 
I certainly will!!


----------



## kinverkid

Jameshow said:


> I've got her a Stanley no5.5 I hope she likes it!!
> I certainly will!!


Sparntly shy doedsnt lke euithr snoonkr or bulliiurdfs.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Think yourselves lucky you only have valentines day to worry about, I also have her birthday to worry about tomorrow and this year is the BIG half century . She thinks I've forgotten, she's gonna be gobsmacked when she finds out I've arranged a surprise party at the pub across the road


----------



## Doug B

Managed to get the doors hung from last week, I’m pleased with how they turned out as the frames were all over the place.






the last couple of days I’ve spent converting my old Axminster LPHV extractor into a cyclone, the original machine.





The new set up.






I hadn’t got any extra room so managed to juggle the bits around & keep it all on the original mobile base. I’ve definitely lost a little suction but there’s still plenty to clear the thicknesser so I’m well pleased.





Your browser is not able to display this video.






Whilst I was doing this I also added remote on off switches so I can now control the extractor from the DOL switch on the machine or from the other end of the workshop.


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> Think yourselves lucky you only have valentines day to worry about, I also have her birthday to worry about tomorrow and this year is the BIG half century . She thinks I've forgotten, she's gonna be gobsmacked when she finds out I've arranged a surprise party at the pub across the road


My Mrs is on the 20th and she's a right one to buy for no hobbies just working and holidays....


----------



## kinverkid

Jameshow said:


> My Mrs is on the 20th and she's a right one to buy for no hobbies just working and holidays....


Can't you treat her to a couple of days picking sprouts in Belgium?


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

I started work on a loom bench for my best beloved.

Thus far I've designed it, bought rough sawn Ash (to match the loom), planed and thicknessed it, and rough cut the four legs. I haven't yet worked out how to actually build the thing, but a start is a start.


----------



## mikej460

I was trying to overtake a couple but they were weaving all over the road, I wound down my window and shouted 'oi you two...get a loom!'


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> My Mrs is on the 20th and she's a right one to buy for no hobbies just working and holidays....


Mines the same, only thing she really wants is a summer house but I just can't be pineappled to build one and can't afford to buy one.


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> Mines the same, only thing she really wants is a summer house but I just can't be pineappled to build one and can't afford to buy one.


Print a pic of the recent one by Dr Bob and put an IOU on it...!

I can hear it now "All you do is turn turn, turn and you won't build me a summer house!"


----------



## houtslager

Some nice work done there peeps, so I better post a quick job done for a friend of a friend of mine, not quite a mates rate job, but it got me working with some real wood and not glued wood dust 
Asked to make a 7m shelf and a sideboard. Christ ! Oak costs a fortune in the UK £3500, then asked about doing it in Douglas redwood hulp £1800, so found a timber mill south of Oxford- Chiltern timbers, and they showed me some English Ash.  Boy it was gorgeous, and a decent thickness at a good price too!
So, ash it was and this is what I knocked up in 10 days


----------



## Glyn Hyatt

A simple magnetic knife rack.
Zebrano wood with an Osmo Polyx finish.
I cut a 3mm veneer off the back, using a band saw. Routed a 12mm wide slot along its length stopping 20mm short of each end.
glued in Neodymium magnets and sealed over them with silicone sealant.
glued the veneer back on and once dry, routed keyhole slots for fixing to the wall.
not a huge undertaking but the wife is happy with it.


----------



## TRITON

Very nice and a good idea. Much better than the normal magnetic racks you usually see.

Blades up


----------



## Glyn Hyatt

Blades up it is


----------



## thetyreman

I'd have just cheated and flipped the photo 180 degrees lol


----------



## Dynamite

Valentines gift for my wife…


----------



## Phil Pascoe

TRITON said:


> Very nice and a good idea. Much better than the normal magnetic racks you usually see.
> 
> Blades up


As a matter of interest, why? They're less like to slide off with the handles up.


----------



## accipiter

Phil Pascoe said:


> As a matter of interest, why? They're less like to slide off with the handles up.


A total guess but I'd say probably because it's easier to grab the handles and safer with blades up and you could possibly catch/cut your hand with blades pointing down.


----------



## Smeghead

nowt flash or fancy, but my first bit of "furniture". base for my table saw. not sure if it's a good idea or not, but added dust collection below the saw (via the port at the back [3d printed]). when i get the saw on it i'll draw up a "y" type piece in cad and print it to connect to the main saw dust collection.


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Annual Barry White day.


----------



## Jones

That time of year again


----------



## TRITON

Glyn Hyatt said:


> Blades up it is





Phil Pascoe said:


> As a matter of interest, why? They're less likely to slide off with the handles up.


If you think about how you approach it to take a knife off, you lift your hand up to the rack. Slight misjudgement and you're in for a belter of a surprise 
They aren't going to slide, but if they did the magnets arent sufficiently strong and should be upped.


----------



## jcassidy

accipiter said:


> A total guess but I'd say probably because it's easier to grab the handles and safer with blades up and you could possibly catch/cut your hand with blades pointing down.



Personal security considerations recommends against knife blocks and racks in the home; leaving weapons out for intruders to use... believe it or not, an intruder using a knife he snatched off a knife rack in your kitchen could argue self defence, which would be less likely to succeed if he brought a weapon with him. Even the act of opening a kitchen drawer to retrieve a knife demonstrates intent, which again makes a self defence argument less viable.

Never mind the risks of a domestic argument very easily escalating. 

Just saying...


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

jcassidy said:


> an intruder using a knife he snatched off a knife rack in your kitchen could argue self defence



Though with no chance whatsoever of success.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

The height my racks are at I'd be more likely to cut myself with the blades upwards.


----------



## Hino

Second thing i've made since doing A`Level woodwork....











in 1986, Hand tools only,


----------



## kinverkid

Hino said:


> Second thing i've made since doing A`Level woodwork....


That's a gorgeous box.


----------



## jcassidy

Sporky McGuffin said:


> Though with no chance whatsoever of success.



No, actually, with quite a good chance. Ireland


Hino said:


> Second thing i've made since doing A`Level woodwork....View attachment 129418
> View attachment 129419
> View attachment 129420
> View attachment 129421
> in 1986, Hand tools only,


That's lovely, that is


----------



## Jameshow

jcassidy said:


> Personal security considerations recommends against knife blocks and racks in the home; leaving weapons out for intruders to use... believe it or not, an intruder using a knife he snatched off a knife rack in your kitchen could argue self defence, which would be less likely to succeed if he brought a weapon with him. Even the act of opening a kitchen drawer to retrieve a knife demonstrates intent, which again makes a self defence argument less viable.
> 
> Never mind the risks of a domestic argument very easily escalating.
> 
> Just saying...


You can never be too careful on this evening of all evenings...

The box of malteasers just wasn't good enough....!


----------



## Chunkytfg

Stigmorgan said:


> Think yourselves lucky you only have valentines day to worry about, I also have her birthday to worry about tomorrow and this year is the BIG half century . She thinks I've forgotten, she's gonna be gobsmacked when she finds out I've arranged a surprise party at the pub across the road



I know the feeling. I have birthday on the 12th, V day on the 14th and Anniversary on the 19th. On the other hand though it does mean I dont need to remember any dates as I get warnings from both my mum and her mum about her birthday and then I know I have the other 2 to deal with also! Lol


----------



## Dr Al

Hino said:


> Second thing i've made since doing A`Level woodwork....View attachment 129418
> View attachment 129419
> View attachment 129420
> View attachment 129421
> in 1986, Hand tools only,



That's beautiful.


----------



## pgrbff

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> They dont actually look too bad after flattening! Slab on left has nothing on and slab on right has some white spirit to see what it might look like with finish on. Obviously the slabs are Oak, but the keys are Gabon Ebony
> 
> View attachment 129178
> 
> View attachment 129179


Very nice keys. How are they made.

Going backwards through the thread. Just found your earlier post.


----------



## D_W

Rosewood top les Paul style guitar finished except for a little fining of the nut work (and then the string excess will disappear).

Limba body, curly maple and walnut neck. 

Scratch built, mostly with hand tools for better or worse. 

Seymour duncan antiquity pickups, and metal key Grover tuners robbed off of some guy's new custom shop black lp custom.


----------



## city17

Finally finished my bookcase last night, I had most of it finished a few weeks ago, but still needed to make the drawers. 

It's mostly made of birch plywood but the lipping and drawer fronts are solid birch. Quite happy with how it turned out. All plywood edges have been edgebanded and the finish is Osmo hardwax (matte).






Some closeups:










The drawers are Blum Movento Tip on (without soft close). They're quite nice, easy to adjust, but I'm still not a big fan of push to open drawers. Next time I'll probably design around it so I can use regular drawer slides.




Your browser is not able to display this video.


----------



## Hino

D_W said:


> Rosewood top les Paul style guitar finished except for a little fining of the nut work (and then the string excess will disappear).
> 
> Limba body, curly maple and walnut neck.
> 
> Scratch built, mostly with hand tools for better or worse.
> 
> Seymour duncan antiquity pickups, and metal key Grover tuners robbed off of some guy's new custom shop black lp custom. View attachment 129443
> View attachment 129444
> View attachment 129445


----------



## Hino

Wow. That is impressive. Is it flat or contoured top. How long did it take you?


----------



## Lefley

Garno said:


> I got Mrs G a 1kg tin of CoffeeMate


Well aren’t we the romantic pair, I got her a tin of coffee! 

but she did start it. She told me when she was at work that a co-worker asked what did you get Glenn. And she said. We have each other for the last 30 years, that’s all we need!


----------



## D_W

Hino said:


> Wow. That is impressive. Is it flat or contoured top. How long did it take you?



It's carved/arch top - it's not asymmetrical or ugly, but that's something to improve on the next one (I contoured a little more of the belly out of the lower bout than an older les paul would have (as in, it's fine, but people expect a copy of a les paul when you're pretty close to copying one). 

It took about a month and a half of a couple of hours a day - maybe 60 hours total as I worked a few extra hours on it some weekend afternoons and very early mornings.


----------



## Garno

Lefley said:


> Well aren’t we the romantic pair, I got her a tin of coffee! View attachment 129461
> 
> but she did start it. She told me when she was at work that a co-worker asked what did you get Glenn. And she said. We have each other for the last 30 years, that’s all we need!



And they say "Romance is dead"
I think we have shown them it's still alive and kicking


----------



## Dynamite

Hino said:


> Second thing i've made since doing A`Level woodwork....View attachment 129418
> View attachment 129419
> View attachment 129420
> View attachment 129421
> in 1986, Hand tools only,


That’s fantastic Hino. What wood? What finish? How did you make the lid and bottom?
Kind Regards..........Rob


----------



## Hino

Dynamite said:


> That’s fantastic Hino. What wood? What finish? How did you make the lid and bottom?
> Kind Regards..........Rob


Thanks. It’s all white oak with osmo finish. Lid is one piece and the bottom is 4 pieces tongue and groove to allow for movement. All done with a plough plane! Took a while


----------



## Dynamite

Hino said:


> Thanks. It’s all white oak with osmo finish. Lid is one piece and the bottom is 4 pieces tongue and groove to allow for movement. All done with a plough plane! Took a while


Brilliant. Impressive Hino


----------



## Fitzroy

Glazed, top coated and installed my sash window prototype. Nothing very novel about it but I wanted to see if I could make one, how much effort it is, and how much performance from a slim 4-6-4 unit. 





I also wanted to replace one sash so that I could play with the old sash, seeing if I could extend/deepen the existing rebate to take a DGU. Possibly is the answer. But oh my god timber is not what it used to be. Windows are 147yrs old and the shavings smell amazing, so dark in comparison to todays timber.


----------



## Smeghead

managed to get the saw on the cabinet. the sawdust was from cutting the wood for the cabinet even tho i had the shop vac on the back of the saw. hope the dust collection works as i hope!


----------



## Lefley

Wife made this! during a Stephen Kennard course.


----------



## Lefley

Original-Oddball said:


> Ultra quick stocking fillers that everyone can't resist a twirl with.
> These spinning tops are so simple to turn.
> coloured with a sharpie.
> View attachment 124886


Those are the best things to make at a demo. The kids are mesmerized as you turn them and give them one!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> Wife made this! during a Stephen Kennard course.


That is beautiful  she should be proud


----------



## Garno

Lefley said:


> Wife made this! during a Stephen Kennard course.



Is there anyone in the @Lefley household that is not an amazing turner?


----------



## Lefley

Garno said:


> Is there anyone in the @Lefley household that is not an amazing turner?


I’m going to try and get Kim to enter the Christmas turning swap this year! 

Now Burl, he still just likes to find wood and chew it!


----------



## gcusick

Smeghead said:


> managed to get the saw on the cabinet. the sawdust was from cutting the wood for the cabinet even tho i had the shop vac on the back of the saw. hope the dust collection works as i hope!


The extraction outlet on the back of the saw probably comes from a shroud around the blade - the one on my Scheppach table saw certainly does. The dust falling out of the base of the saw has bypassed that. I’ve built a similar cabinet to yours, but decided not to extract from the cavity under the saw, as I doubted that the extractor could generate enough airflow to pull the dust out. Instead, I just put a removable panel on the front, and clear it out occasionally with the shop vac.


----------



## Stigmorgan

So after more sanding than I care to admit I've finally finished my latest creation, a large-ish cherrywood bud vase/ twig pot, this will be a gift for a very good friend who A donated the cherrywood to me a few years ago and B did all the legwork and set up for my better half's surprise 50th birthday party on Sunday making it a huge success.


----------



## Jameshow

Lefley said:


> I’m going to try and get Kim to enter the Christmas turning swap this year!
> 
> Now Burl, he still just likes to find wood and chew it!
> View attachment 129515


How old is he? Ours is 4 months!


----------



## paulrbarnard

Lefley said:


> I’m going to try and get Kim to enter the Christmas turning swap this year!
> 
> Now Burl, he still just likes to find wood and chew it!
> View attachment 129515


At least he has a wood related name


----------



## Morag Jones

Got this machine from a mate, now I have to learn how to use it. Planning making a pair of doors. The stand is just packing wood but suitably sturdy.


----------



## Jameshow

Morag Jones said:


> Got this machine from a mate, now I have to learn how to use it. Planning making a pair of doors. The stand is just packing wood but suitably sturdy. View attachment 129616


Do you rate those foam tiles I'm thinking of getting some to line my garage floor! Just the bits which are walked on.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> Do you rate those foam tikes I'm thinking of getting some to line my garage floor! Just the buts which are walked on.


It will make it a whole lot more comfortable to stand and walk on, I have a couple in front of my lathe, makes a huge difference.


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> It will make it a whole lot more comfortable to stand and walk on, I have a couple in front of my lathe, makes a huge difference.


Great I'll get some.


----------



## kinverkid

Jameshow said:


> Do you rate those foam tikes I'm thinking of getting some to line my garage floor! Just the buts which are walked on.


Same here as Stigmorgan uses them. Also, if you're a turner, I've glued an off-cut 300mm diameter to a bit of ply and use it when I want to turn the foot/recess from a bowl by pressing it into the foam with the tailstock.


----------



## Fidget

Jameshow said:


> Do you rate those foam tiles I'm thinking of getting some to line my garage floor! Just the bits which are walked on.



Not only are they more comfortable but when you drop a chisel you are very pleased they are there!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Fidget said:


> Not only are they more comfortable but when you drop a chisel you are very pleased they are there!


Oh yes, 100%. Nothing worse than dropping a tool, especially the skew, it always lands pointfirst


----------



## kinverkid

Stigmorgan said:


> Oh yes, 100%. Nothing worse than dropping a tool, especially the skew, it always lands pointfirst


I spread a little bit of butter on the end of the handle so if I drop it it lands butter side first


----------



## Morag Jones

Yes I use them for all sorts of stuff. I'm stripping down a shredder there and they don't half save your knees! And chisels as mentioned.

When I built the workshop I was going to cover the whole floor with rubber tread-plate stuff, but I've managed to create floods a couple of times so glad I didn't. The square mats can be lifted up easy. Go for it.


----------



## Morag Jones

I think Costco do a roll of the stuff, might work better if you don't want the joints.


----------



## Droogs

B&M usually have them for around a tenner for a half doz pack with edges too.


----------



## Mick p

Stigmorgan said:


> So after more sanding than I care to admit I've finally finished my latest creation, a large-ish cherrywood bud vase/ twig pot, this will be a gift for a very good friend who A donated the cherrywood to me a few years ago and B did all the legwork and set up for my better half's surprise 50th birthday party on Sunday making it a huge success.
> 
> View attachment 129568
> View attachment 129569
> View attachment 129570
> View attachment 129571


Stig that’s truly superb looks amazing.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

kinverkid said:


> I spread a little bit of butter on the end of the handle so if I drop it it lands butter side first


I always tie mine to a cat.


----------



## Garno

Phil Pascoe said:


> I always tie mine to a cat.



That will help you get purrfect chiselling.

OK I will get my coat


----------



## Stigmorgan

Mick p said:


> Stig that’s truly superb looks amazing.


Thanks Mick, how's you and the wife?


----------



## Jameshow

Droogs said:


> B&M usually have them for around a tenner for a half doz pack with edges too.


Halfords have them on offer too. 

Intend going on Monday

Cheers James


----------



## GregW




----------



## Garno

GregW said:


> View attachment 129674
> View attachment 129675
> View attachment 129678
> View attachment 129676
> View attachment 129677



Fantastic job, what a difference you have made


----------



## Morag Jones

GregW said:


> View attachment 129674
> View attachment 129675
> View attachment 129678
> View attachment 129676
> View attachment 129677


very nice!


----------



## GregW

Garno said:


> Fantastic job, what a difference you have made


Thank you


----------



## Chrispy

Not a lot of wood in this one but used the same tools.
Utility room sink top made in Hi-macs solid surface Santa Ana with a fabricated lip all round and thickened front edge.


----------



## D_W

Chrispy said:


> Not a lot of wood in this one but used the same tools.
> Utility room sink top made in Hi-macs solid surface Santa Ana with a fabricated lip all round and thickened front edge.View attachment 129696
> View attachment 129697
> View attachment 129698
> View attachment 129699
> View attachment 129700
> View attachment 129701



similar experience with solid surface. It's like working wood, except with a trick glue and if the router is run without dust collection, it's like a million feathers (it can be rasped, hand sawn and hand planed, though, too).


----------



## Lefley

GregW said:


> View attachment 129674
> View attachment 129675
> View attachment 129678
> View attachment 129676
> View attachment 129677


Did you make all new ones or refurbished existing? Superb job for sure! Must be different working within stone. Here in Canada as a carpenter, I’ve never came across a stone building. Always had the option of modifying the opening if need be.


----------



## GregW

Lefley said:


> Did you make all new ones or refurbished existing? Superb job for sure! Must be different working within stone. Here in Canada as a carpenter, I’ve never came across a stone building. Always had the option of modifying the opening if need be.



I always recommend refurbishment is there is cosmetic, however windows has need referb 3 times, and most tenons were completely rotten away. Client decision was to like4like front of the house 

WILTHIRE is 50/50 
Bath Roman soft stone and Potterne hard red brick  buildings 
Love to do windows for both.
300 years Master Stonemason’s work 90”deg still there ! Absolute treat to place sash face against. 
1800x1300 with 3mm off the face flat after 200-300 years after stone being fitted


----------



## sammy.se

starlingwood said:


> Lights led strip on a twin motion sensor and dimmer.



What a great idea for motion sensor LED strips! I assume the idea is they light up when you get out of bed in the middle of the night?


----------



## Shan

Hi Folks. I put up some perspex shelves today to show off some bowls I've made. Idea being that you can see underneath the shelf when coming up the stairs.


----------



## gregmcateer

Great idea, Shan. Looks great 
Wouldn't want to be on dusting duty, tho!


----------



## Nick S

Few animals


----------



## Stigmorgan

@Shan Absolutely love that


----------



## paulrbarnard

Nick S said:


> Few animals View attachment 129781


Those gave me a smile. Great project


----------



## Jameshow

Starlet yacht pretty much finished just some sail alterations.


----------



## Fitzroy

Installed sharpened knives on the P/T and made an offcut lovely, and flat and true, simple pleasures. Those fluffy shavings from sharp blades are so pleasing.


----------



## Blackswanwood

Walnut with Sycamore inlay jewellery box.


----------



## kinverkid

This is the second Enterprise I've made. The other one was oak and much bigger. We had nowhere to put it so a Trekky? Treckie? friend had it from me. This one is in Walnut. It's 500mm long, 220mm wide saucer and 180mm high without the stand.


----------



## DBC

This is actually the third to last job I made which I put in in January. However, by the time I finish something I am always in such a rush to get onto the next job I never remember to take pictures. However, the customer just emailed me the picture as they are very pleased with the painting which they did themselves. Chimney breast units, shelves, fire surround and mirror all made to the customers design.


----------



## MARK.B.

This is the second Enterprise I've made. 
Looks great  , did you use the Captains Log to make it from


----------



## kinverkid

MARK.B. said:


> This is the second Enterprise I've made.
> Looks great  , did you use the Captains Log to make it from


No. It was warped.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

Just a little workshop upgrade; I noticed a couple of weeks ago that my dust extractor actually has a 200mm inlet, but came with a 150mm reducer stuck in it, so today I upgraded the run to the first Y to 200mm, and the first Y is now 200 to 2x150. Spot the difference - there's a noticeable increase in suction at the machines. Next step is to upgrade around the mitre saw hood to rigid duct. 

Before:







After:


----------



## Fitzroy

Ledged and braced (to come) door in larch for the outhouse. Sawn larch has dried pretty well and stayed flat thankfully. Could have done drying for a few more months but the door needs made.


----------



## Grantx

Blackswanwood said:


> Walnut with Sycamore inlay jewellery box.
> 
> View attachment 129847
> 
> 
> View attachment 129848
> 
> 
> View attachment 129849


How did you do the inlay edges it looks very intricate!


----------



## Blackswanwood

Grantx said:


> How did you do the inlay edges it looks very intricate!


This video shows the method I use. I did one of Andrew’s courses a few years ago.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

kinverkid said:


> No. It was warped.


It warped speedily presumably?


----------



## Padster

Well its a weekend so two visits to my workshop....ok the garage!

Here's couple of penlights, I've made some previously but these were 'commissions' for the wife and daughter, wife wanted the camo, the daughters is the pearl.


















Regards

Padster


----------



## Padster

Visit two....

I'm still getting to grips with Bowl turning, this was a piece of Elm...














Regards

Padster


----------



## kinverkid

Padster said:


> Here's couple of penlights, I've made some previously but these were 'commissions' for the wife and daughter, wife wanted the camo, the daughters is the pearl.


Very nice pens. Who is the supplier for those particular kits? I've made two camouflage pens for my wife but she can never find them


----------



## Padster

kinverkid said:


> Very nice pens. Who is the supplier for those particular kits? I've made two camouflage pens for my wife but she can never find them



LOL - the kits come from:




__





Front Page - Penkitzandbitz


For POST FREE pen kits, pencil kits, spares and pen blanks, magnifying glass, Rollerball kits, Fountain Pen kits, etc, www.beaufortink.co.uk., world class penkits, pen turning kits, woodturning pen turning kits, british made pen kits, pen kits suppliers, pen kit suppliers...




www.penkitzandbitz.co.uk





Regards

Padster


----------



## Grantx

Blackswanwood said:


> This video shows the method I use. I did one of Andrew’s courses a few years ago.



Did you make the inlay or is that something you buy?


----------



## Blackswanwood

Grantx said:


> Did you make the inlay or is that something you buy?



The Sycamore inlay that I used on this box was bought from Andrew Crawford 



https://www.smartboxmaker.com



He doesn't seem to have them on his website at the moment but if I were after some I'd e-mail him.

I have also used them from here on other boxes:





__





Inlay Banding Suppliers, Inlay Strip Suppliers, Inlays Edges Suppliers, Inlay Borders Suppliers.


Inlay Banding Suppliers, Inlay Strip Suppliers, Inlays Edges Suppliers, Inlay Borders Suppliers.




www.originalmarquetry.co.uk


----------



## Shan

Padster said:


> Visit two....
> 
> I'm still getting to grips with Bowl turning, this was a piece of Elm...
> 
> View attachment 129924
> 
> View attachment 129925
> 
> View attachment 129926
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster


Padster, the bowl looks very good and similar to a bowl I made from some chestnut. Well done.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Padster said:


> Visit two....
> 
> I'm still getting to grips with Bowl turning, this was a piece of Elm...
> 
> View attachment 129924
> 
> View attachment 129925
> 
> View attachment 129926
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster


Dude that's beautiful


----------



## Shan

Blackswanwood said:


> Walnut with Sycamore inlay jewellery box.
> 
> View attachment 129847
> 
> 
> View attachment 129848
> 
> 
> View attachment 129849


Those boxes look incredible. Can't believe how dark the Sycamore is compared with the Walnut. Congratulations! 🖒🖒🖒


----------



## CoolNik

wallace said:


> I made this wardrobe for my mrs to house her ever increasing bag collection. I learnt a lot making this and got a load of browny points.


Well done! It looks like shoe storage is next on your list!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Decided to make another cherywood bud vase/twig pot, didn't have to do quite so much sanding on this one


----------



## Doug71

Customer wanted to do something to cover an unused doorway, it's quite a grand place and I was pretty much given free rein 

Before






Of course the wall was a long way out so I made up the carcass and fitted it temporarily so I could scribe the front to the angle of the wall






We all love a workshop shot so we can have a nosey so here you go






Fitted it today, shelves to go in yet. It is made to match some other bits around the house but their daughter commented that it looks like it belongs in The White House, I think that's a compliment


----------



## Jameshow

Doug71 said:


> Customer wanted to do something to cover an unused doorway, it's quite a grand place and I was pretty much given free rein
> 
> Before
> 
> View attachment 130107
> 
> 
> Of course the wall was a long way out so I made up the carcass and fitted it temporarily so I could scribe the front to the angle of the wall
> 
> View attachment 130108
> 
> 
> We all love a workshop shot so we can have a nosey so here you go
> 
> View attachment 130109
> 
> 
> Fitted it today, shelves to go in yet. It is made to match some other bits around the house but their daughter commented that it looks like it belongs in The White House, I think that's a compliment
> 
> View attachment 130110


Do you have your own personal guardsman?!!


----------



## Stigmorgan

So I've had a productive afternoon today, one of the teachers is expecting her first baby and has been feeling a bit nervous so I thought I would make something for her, so a few days ago I started with a piece of spalted oak and a piece of very light oak and today ended up with a fairly big rattle, it's too big to be used by baby and I don't have any toy safe finishes so I also made a stand for it to sit on and be displayed if they wish, I presented it to her this afternoon and she absolutely loved it.








I also mounted a piece of butchers block that I was given by @Mick p when I had the pleasure of visiting him last year, turned into a thick bottomed dish, sanded to 320 and finished with walnut oil


----------



## Garno

Spent little time in the shed this year.

Made this pen out of my secret Santa blank from @Lefley so I hope it does him proud, it will have a good place to display in our home.

Yellow Cedar Burr
Sanded to 600 grit
Sanding sealer
5 coats of CA (Thin)

Photo's are awful.


----------



## Lefley

Garno said:


> Spent little time in the shed this year.
> 
> Made this pen out of my secret Santa blank from @Lefley so I hope it does him proud, it will have a good place to display in our home.
> 
> Yellow Cedar Burr
> Sanded to 600 grit
> Sanding sealer
> 5 coats of CA (Thin)
> 
> Photo's are awful.
> 
> View attachment 130205
> View attachment 130206
> View attachment 130207
> View attachment 130208
> View attachment 130209
> View attachment 130210
> View attachment 130211


Very nice. You did an awesome job! It’s pretty bad when you got to turn your own present, lol.  I’m going to have to start turning some pens. I’ve only made one in my life,


----------



## Garno

Lefley said:


> Very nice. You did an awesome job! It’s pretty bad when you got to turn your own present, lol.  I’m going to have to start turning some pens. I’ve only made one in my life,


With your skill level I think you will enjoy it my friend


----------



## Shan

Stigmorgan said:


> Decided to make another cherywood bud vase/twig pot, didn't have to do quite so much sanding on this one
> View attachment 130073
> View attachment 130074
> View attachment 130075
> View attachment 130076


Stig 
That vase looks very smart. Did you hollow out the bottom? Good job! 🖒🖒🖒


----------



## Stigmorgan

Shan said:


> Stig
> That vase looks very smart. Did you hollow out the bottom? Good job! 🖒🖒🖒


No just a 20mm hole drilled down, I dont have any hollowing tools but to be honest the weight of it as it is feels really nice in the hand


----------



## Adam Pinson

Frame for my latest drawing made entirely from scrap materials.


----------



## Linus

Adam Pinson said:


> Frame for my latest drawing made entirely from scrap materials.View attachment 130269


I envy your talent. Not my style but I appreciate the skill involved. BTW is that a glue gun? ( I know....hat, coat.....)


----------



## Adam Pinson

Linus said:


> I envy your talent. Not my style but I appreciate the skill involved. BTW is that a glue gun? ( I know....hat, coat.....)


ha ha brilliant, a glue gun yes, why not, originally it was whipped pink honey but glue gun is more apt in this forum


----------



## Adam Pinson

Made this frame today for another drawing, all made from scrap, i have a show soon, so framing is my main activity right now....


----------



## Dr Al

This isn't really woodwork, but it's for woodwork so I thought I'd post it on here in case anyone's interested...

My vacuum cleaner has a power-tool socket on it that detects when a connected power tool starts up and causes the vacuum cleaner to start automatically (and then stop automatically when the power tool stops). I find it a really nice feature as the vacuum cleaner noise stops when the tool noise stops so you can have some peace and quiet between cuts. The problem I have with it is that it (obviously) doesn't work when the power tool in question doesn't have a mains lead!

To fix this, I made some adaptors to automatically start a vacuum cleaner when using a cordless power tool:











Inside:






16 second video of it in action - first run is with the electronics turned off; second run is with it turned on: pay attention to the light on the front of the radio-controlled socket:


----------



## Rich C

Got my first lathe a week or so ago. Decided to turn some firewood for practice. Came out alright I think.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Rich C said:


> Got my first lathe a week or so ago. Decided to turn some firewood for practice. Came out alright I think.


Thats nice and clean, did you do much sanding?


----------



## Rich C

Stigmorgan said:


> Thats nice and clean, did you do much sanding?


No, I was in a hurry so it's largely straight off the tools. You can't really see it on the photo but there's a couple of areas where the parting tool marks are obvious. Deciding to get fancy tools seems to have paid off at least.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Rich C said:


> No, I was in a hurry so it's largely straight off the tools. You can't really see it on the photo but there's a couple of areas where the parting tool marks are obvious. Deciding to get fancy tools seems to have paid off at least.


Dont be too modest, clean cuts take skill and practice, to be honest I don't think fancy tools makes as much of a difference as correct use and sharp edges, fancy/expensive tools (in my opinion) only give you a longer lasting edge meaning you spend less time sharpening.


----------



## MARK.B.

Had the need for a gun cleaning and maintenance stand and did not fancy paying for a shop bought one even though they offer more features than this one. So had a rummage in the offcuts bin and found a bit of oak and a bit of mahogany , glued a couple of pieces of leather to give the needed thickness for the cutouts and provide protection from scratches ( i was going to use a old leather belt that had somehow shrunk since i got it 30 years ago  but it was not quite thick enough) ,added a height adjuster from a old freezer and hey presto there it was . Although it was made to fit my PCP it does fit my old Springer as well if required . Nothing fancy and not really a lot of actual woodworking but it does the job .


----------



## rafezetter

Adam Pinson said:


> Made this frame today for another drawing, all made from scrap, i have a show soon, so framing is my main activity right now.... View attachment 130302




Those pictures are just WILD - AMAZING, that's an incredible talent you have there.

This one looks how I imagine a cows face would look staring at you, if one was on a real bender of an acid trip.


----------



## bourbon

I make all sorts of stuff. This has woodwork AND metalwork in it.


----------



## Lefley

In deep thought thinking off my next project , stay tuned. The wife has instructed me to do a thank you gift to a couple I’ve already made 10 different bowls for, so can’t be a bowl! We are 
!
!


----------



## Droogs

he looks well fed up


----------



## Callum

Fairly quick spice rack made of oak. Was slightly out of square though which was annoying. Should of put a back on it which would of helped I think, but it’s not that obvious now it’s up.


----------



## matkinitice

A shoe seat for the nook in our porch. Been well over a year over due and is a real quality of life improvement in terms of space and clearing the floor as dull as that sounds.

Quite a lot of firsts in this project. First time using rough sawn wood and milling using my new planer/thicknesser. First time using Osmo Poly X for the finish. First purhcase and use of a spiral downcut router bit which was great. I also made the leap and got a dowel plate and flush cut saw. The panel was laminated using a new biscuit jointer as practice for larger glue ups in the future. I also took the plunge on Z clips to fasten the top to the frame. These cost a fortune and were imported from the US - I reckon I have enough for six more table tops before needing more but I enjoyed using them over wooden cabinet buttons I've made in the past.

Traditional bread board ends - the middle mortice is glued, the two outer are only draw bored. Had an absolute disaster with the outer face of the panel when the router bit which was bearing guided, slipped into the groove of the panel causing me to take a chunk out. I wanted to cry. Managed to get around this by trimming the panel - thankfully no one will see the otherside but I know it's there. This does mean less of an overhang but in terms of space it was a trade off for providing enough shoe storage vs space to sit.

Overall quite happy - but this will be one of the first things I rebuild once I run out of projects around the house. Good practice though I feel much more confident when it comes to my future coffee table/dining table builds.


----------



## Lefley

Okay I’m getting somewhere. Already wife is saying you need to make two because I might not be able to give it away. After I add African blackwood, foot and finial on lid.


----------



## robgul

matkinitice said:


> View attachment 130514
> 
> 
> View attachment 130517
> 
> 
> A shoe seat for the nook in our porch. Been well over a year over due and is a real quality of life improvement in terms of space and clearing the floor as dull as that sounds.
> 
> Quite a lot of firsts in this project. First time using rough sawn wood and milling using my new planer/thicknesser. First time using Osmo Poly X for the finish. First purhcase and use of a spiral downcut router bit which was great. I also made the leap and got a dowel plate and flush cut saw. The panel was laminated using a new biscuit jointer as practice for larger glue ups in the future. I also took the plunge on Z clips to fasten the top to the frame. These cost a fortune and were imported from the US - I reckon I have enough for six more table tops before needing more but I enjoyed using them over wooden cabinet buttons I've made in the past.
> 
> Traditional bread board ends - the middle mortice is glued, the two outer are only draw bored. Had an absolute disaster with the outer face of the panel when the router bit which was bearing guided, slipped into the groove of the panel causing me to take a chunk out. I wanted to cry. Managed to get around this by trimming the panel - thankfully no one will see the otherside but I know it's there. This does mean less of an overhang but in terms of space it was a trade off for providing enough shoe storage vs space to sit.
> 
> Overall quite happy - but this will be one of the first things I rebuild once I run out of projects around the house. Good practice though I feel much more confident when it comes to my future coffee table/dining table builds.



Very neat - the shoe rack I made is altogether more rustic being made from pallet wood using a nail gun! (It is by the back door so not quite so visible)


----------



## clogs

Matkinitice
so the rebuild will take a life time….
i have few things that I’d like to redo but one has been waiting for 40 years….hahaha


----------



## Adam Pinson

rafezetter said:


> Those pictures are just WILD - AMAZING, that's an incredible talent you have there.
> 
> This one looks how I imagine a cows face would look staring at you, if one was on a real bender of an acid trip.


Moooo ha ha great observation


----------



## Stigmorgan

Set myself a little challenge today, one of the girls at school is leaving tomorrow and I thought it would be nice if she had a gift made from one of the schools trees so using my last bit of clean silver birch I set out to make a twig pot/bud vase in around 2 hours, it took a little longer but over all I'm pretty happy with it, sanded to 600 and given a good coat of linseed oil













Ideally I would have liked a bigger opening but the blank I had was only just over 3 inches thick.


----------



## isaac3d

Like the spice rack.
Practical, beautiful and well made. Nice.


----------



## Alpha-Dave

A building went up at work in ~2016 for which some trees needed to be cut down, the arborist were disposing of the logs as firewood so I bought some from them and rough-turned them in to bowls. We have a few people now retiring, so these are gifts to them, made from the wood of the trees grown where they worked.

The finish is ~6 coats of danish oil, followed by Chestnut buffing and waxing. 

The back-left is cherry, which has darkened through spalting, the other two are sycamore. 











The shape is only defined by getting the biggest piece possible from the logs I had. This one could be a yarn bowl:





This one is pleasing to hold because of the subtle’ogee’ shape to the underside:





This one is my favourite because of the spalting, it can sometimes be pretty, other times not; I think that this one worked out well.


----------



## rafezetter

matkinitice said:


> View attachment 130514
> 
> 
> View attachment 130517
> 
> 
> A shoe seat for the nook in our porch. Been well over a year over due and is a real quality of life improvement in terms of space and clearing the floor as dull as that sounds.
> 
> Quite a lot of firsts in this project. First time using rough sawn wood and milling using my new planer/thicknesser. First time using Osmo Poly X for the finish. First purhcase and use of a spiral downcut router bit which was great. I also made the leap and got a dowel plate and flush cut saw. The panel was laminated using a new biscuit jointer as practice for larger glue ups in the future. I also took the plunge on Z clips to fasten the top to the frame. These cost a fortune and were imported from the US - I reckon I have enough for six more table tops before needing more but I enjoyed using them over wooden cabinet buttons I've made in the past.
> 
> Traditional bread board ends - the middle mortice is glued, the two outer are only draw bored. Had an absolute disaster with the outer face of the panel when the router bit which was bearing guided, slipped into the groove of the panel causing me to take a chunk out. I wanted to cry. Managed to get around this by trimming the panel - thankfully no one will see the otherside but I know it's there. This does mean less of an overhang but in terms of space it was a trade off for providing enough shoe storage vs space to sit.
> 
> Overall quite happy - but this will be one of the first things I rebuild once I run out of projects around the house. Good practice though I feel much more confident when it comes to my future coffee table/dining table builds.



That's a fine piece of furniture you have there; I know what you mean about router slips, have had a few myself and they are _so_ disheartening, but on the plus side the next time it happens, and it will, you'll feel more confident about fixing it, and the "I know it's there" yeah I (we all) know that feeling too, but try not to let it mar the enjoyment and satisfaction of the build as you've made an item I'm sure any one of us would be very happy with.


----------



## Lefley

rafezetter said:


> That's a fine piece of furniture you have there; I know what you mean about router slips, have had a few myself and they are _so_ disheartening, but on the plus side the next time it happens, and it will, you'll feel more confident about fixing it, and the "I know it's there" yeah I (we all) know that feeling too, but try not to let it mar the enjoyment and satisfaction of the build as you've made an item I'm sure any one of us would be very happy with.


I hate router slips, but as a carpenter , you have to consider them design opportunities!


----------



## Doug71

Since I had a move around in the workshop a few months ago my clamps haven't had a proper home, they have just got leant against a wall. It was driving me mad as they kept falling over and I couldn't quickly grab the one I needed so I finally made time to build a clamp rack.






No joinery involved, just dominos and pocket screws






All loaded up and ready to go






Should have done it weeks ago


----------



## NickDReed

Spalted birch bowl, tree I cut down with my dad. Thought I'd give him a bit of it back. Needs some finish still


----------



## kinverkid

NickDReed said:


> Thought I'd give him a bit of it back.


He's going to love it.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Found a nice bit of Hawthorn out on the pile so brought it in with the intent to let it dry for a while but couldn't resist putting it straight on the lathe and love the result, will be interesting to see how much it moves/cracks, it was cut down at least 5 years ago but probably more.


----------



## mhannah

Doug B said:


> This fuse box cupboard.


You have a seriously big fuse-box


----------



## Lefley

typical in Canada. 200 amp service in new houses. This is my old 100 amp service. Had to add a second 100 amp service in my garage/shop as I was using all house power..


----------



## D.Stephenson

Here’s my most recent student Simon with his three day Roubo workbench made week. First one of 2022


----------



## Doug B

mhannah said:


> You have a seriously big fuse-box



Not mine a customers, I couldn’t remember it that well so just had a look back in my photos, this was what it covered 






I also made an adjoining unit for the tv to stand on this also hid the gas meter hence the two pairs of doors, think this photo was prior to final finishing.


----------



## Orraloon

D.Stephenson said:


> Here’s my most recent student Simon with his three day Roubo workbench made week. First one of 2022


A fine looking bench. Simon must be a grafter as thats a great effort in 3 days.
Regards
John


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

Not woodwork but directly involved. A home made riving knife for my table saw out of 2mm stainless steel. Most cutting with a angle grinder with a metal slitting disc and a fare amount of filing. Works well and much safer than before. Strange shape allows 'cowl' to be mounted and adjusted to horizontal: took a little working out.
Martin.


----------



## blackteaonesugar

MorrisWoodman12 said:


> A home made riving knife for my table saw



Awww, it looks like an expectant seal.


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Made a Wheel of Fortune, spinner wheel for a local gaming company.










Ten points if you guess what colour comes up before watching the video


----------



## Alpha-Dave

This is a ‘Yarn bowl’ made as a gift for a friend of the Mrs who knits. To allow the ball of wool to roll around, it needs to be as smooth as possible on the inside to avoid snags, so much care needs to be taken when finishing that part.

There is a dip in the rim where there was a defect in the wood and leaving a dip seemed better than lowering the whole rim.

The piece of firewood this came from (sycamore I believe) was quite unattractive, but I’m very pleased with how this turned out. Danish oil and buffed-wax finish. Definitely some interesting spalting radiating out from the pith.


----------



## Alex H

Ridiculous prices, lack of available stock and no choice of size forced my hand  (not the greenhouse!)


----------



## Garno

Pen for lovers of "Game of thrones" or "Skyrim"
This is a heavy pen
Awful photo's (sorry)

Gold waves acrylic
sanded to 600 grit with abranet
Sanding pads to 15000 grit wet and dry
Polishing compound
5 hours over 2 days


----------



## Fitzroy

Ledged and braced door for the outhouse complete and installed.


----------



## Terry Fogarty

Stand for my new Dewalt dw735. 

90×45 structural pine, 9mm mdf, domino and pocket holes.


----------



## Fitzroy

Terry Fogarty said:


> Stand for my new Dewalt dw735.
> 
> 90×45 structural pine, 9mm mdf, domino and pocket holes.
> 
> 
> View attachment 131049


That’s brilliant!


----------



## Garno

Fitzroy said:


> That’s brilliant!



That's what I thought


----------



## Phill05

Fitzroy said:


> Ledged and braced door for the outhouse complete and installed.
> View attachment 131032
> 
> View attachment 131031



Nice job done correctly (just lately had some discussions with so called fitters about how to hang a braced door they had no idea)


----------



## bourbon

Not made, but fixed. I volunteer at a repair café. near me.


Kirsten Ramsey, (of the repair shop) eat your heart out. This came into the repair café on Saturday. It was one of the poppies from the art installation at the tower of London in 2018. I fixed one as it had all the pieces. This one had two chunks missing I had to rebuild the petals


----------



## Terry Fogarty

Fitzroy said:


> That’s brilliant!


Thanks. It was made to look similar to my jet machinery.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Made a basic centre finder out of a scrap of acrylic, cut it to 2mm smaller than my lathe can take, added a few lines 1inch apart from centre, still need to drill a few holes to mark the circle, it's not perfect but it will do the job.


----------



## nickds1

If we're talking about L&B doors, here's a stable door I made for the cellar of my office outbuilding.

The top bit has to open outwards as the interior floor level is slightly below the top of the door and the bottom bit inwards due to the steps.

As the door was to be stained black (Sadolin Classic Ebony) I pre-stained all the joints before assembly so as to not get white lines in summer when the door shrinks a bit... I used simple lapped joints with a couple of mm expansion gap between the boards. All SS screws/coach screws.

It's a beast - about 1.35m wide, 2m high and made from 1" rough-sawn tanalised timber. The top was fiddly to get it to open properly, being recessed into an arch and having to open over the top of the steps.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Did a little thing with a piece of Hawthorn again, from the same branch as my last piece, there are a few bits of tearout and tool marks that I couldn't sand out but I'm pretty happy with it, sanded to 320 and finished with Danish Oil


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> Did a little thing with a piece of Hawthorn again, from the same branch as my last piece, there are a few bits of tearout and tool marks that I couldn't sand out but I'm pretty happy with it, sanded to 320 and finished with Danish Oil
> View attachment 131177
> View attachment 131178
> View attachment 131179
> View attachment 131180
> View attachment 131181
> View attachment 131182


I thought you had toothache?!


----------



## Bingy man

Made this a couple of years back to improve safety using my portable saw due to a near miss with a 8 x 4 sheet of 18mm plywood. I now cut large sheets with a circular saw into more manageable pieces and find this table extension excellent for long lengths, it’s knock down for easy storage +has adjustable feet .


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> I thought you had toothache?!


I do and thats why it's not up to my usual standard


----------



## DBC

Last 3 jobs done since 7th February.

Variety is the spice of life.

Raised pitch of studio roof. Loved this job because my son was visiting and we had a day on that roof together. You can’t tell how cold we are up there in this picture.










Bathroom cab built in for a regular customer…





Loadsa shelves for a new customer ready for their painter…




I have one more set of units ready to install but then I’m starting a heritage building renovation which will probably take the rest of the year. So except for the odd visit to make mouldings and a few cabinets for this job I won’t be in the workshop much in 2022. So keep posting your projects on this page to make me jealous.


----------



## Stigmorgan

@DBC some beautiful work there


----------



## Woodwork Journey Dean

I made a sign to go on my workshop wall in the background of some of my videos.
It was the first time I’d tried freehand routing, heavy stain in the letters so they’re still 3D (instead of filing with epoxy), burned and sanded a couple of times, then Treatex hard wax ultra over the whole thing to see what it was like.

I’m calling the many imperfections ‘rustic’


----------



## DBC

Im so thick. I couldn’t work this out. I thought you’d misspelt joinery. I get it now (shuffles off head down in embarrassment).


----------



## NosamLuap

Last thing I made was flowers for Valentines day - inspired by a Youtube video, the petals are just thick plane shavings from the side of a scaffold board, cut into roughly round 'petal' shapes with scissors and hot-glued onto the wooden stem. The vase is (I think?) African Mahogany with the light strip being the best quality old scaffold board


----------



## Stigmorgan

NosamLuap said:


> Last thing I made was flowers for Valentines day - inspired by a Youtube video, the petals are just thick plane shavings from the side of a scaffold board, cut into roughly round 'petal' shapes with scissors and hot-glued onto the wooden stem. The vase is (I think?) African Mahogany with the light strip being the best quality old scaffold board
> 
> View attachment 131265


Thats beautiful


----------



## NosamLuap

Stigmorgan said:


> Thats beautiful


It was deceptively easy to make, to be fair. Very good for brownie points!  This was the video that I loosely followed -


----------



## ScottyT

Well this is my first post so not sure if im replying to the above message or this is my own. My last job


----------



## Bingy man

Proper nice,,


----------



## paulrbarnard

ScottyT said:


> Well this is my first post so not sure if im replying to the above message or this is my own. My last job


Actually it looks like you have two posts there.


----------



## ScottyT

paulrbarnard said:


> Actually it looks like you have two posts there.


Very good


----------



## blackteaonesugar

That's a beautiful gate that. 
Won't people just walk under it though?


----------



## Jameshow

blackteaonesugar said:


> That's a beautiful gate that.
> Won't people just walk under it though?


Don't be harsh it's the first things he's ever made...!


----------



## ScottyT

blackteaonesugar said:


> That's a beautiful gate that.
> Won't people just walk under it though?


If your very short you might of got away with it.
I had to set it up to check my hinges worked with the closing stiles gap, it’s a job to know how long to set the pin length at on the post even with it rodded out, so a few tack welds to start and offer it up. 
hence the full workshop Install.


----------



## Stigmorgan

blackteaonesugar said:


> That's a beautiful gate that.
> Won't people just walk under it though?


Only Oompah Loompahs and jockeys (and Warwick Davis) could walk under that


----------



## Paul200

A small chest of Oak based on a Viking sea chest found at an archaeological dig at Hedeby Harbour, Germany. The design really appealed to me so I adapted it for a small box. These chests were not just used for personal effects but also tool storage and as a rowing bench on board. Mine is only 30cm long so couldn't be used as a bench but is still quite multi-functional.


----------



## jcassidy

Paul200 said:


> View attachment 131396



That's lovely, and what is that small box on the grey counter behind, looks like a man-tray thingie?


----------



## Paul200

jcassidy said:


> That's lovely, and what is that small box on the grey counter behind, looks like a man-tray thingie?


Thanks jcassidy - it certainly is! I make a lot of these 'scoop' boxes and the first one I made was sold to a lady! This is the finished man-tray.


----------



## John Brown

MorrisWoodman12 said:


> Not woodwork but directly involved. A home made riving knife for my table saw out of 2mm stainless steel. Most cutting with a angle grinder with a metal slitting disc and a fare amount of filing. Works well and much safer than before. Strange shape allows 'cowl' to be mounted and adjusted to horizontal: took a little working out.
> Martin.
> 
> View attachment 130960
> View attachment 130961


Can it balance a ball on its nose?


----------



## Stigmorgan

Another bit of Hawthorn today, decided to have a bit of fun with the finish and actually really like the outcome




















Bottom (egg) half is sanded to 600 then 2 passes with abrasive paste and finished with 2 coats of hardwax, the "trumpet" I sanded to 320 and finished with linseed oil, I love the texture contrast from the glass smooth wax to the oiled wood and I'm totally in love with the colours of finished Hawthorn.


----------



## kinverkid

Stigmorgan said:


> Another bit of Hawthorn today


I love to turn Hawthorn but I've only been lucky enough to have small pieces for pots etc. Some will no doubt arrive in the firewood delivery soon.


----------



## Stigmorgan

kinverkid said:


> I love to turn Hawthorn but I've only been lucky enough to have small pieces for pots etc. Some will no doubt arrive in the firewood delivery soon.


It's nice but very very dusty, I'd say I get almost as much dust from it as when I turn silver birch. I think it also has one of the biggest colour changes when finished going from a creamy colour to warm brown. I only have a couple of bits left in my store, need to see if I can find some more out in the pile.


----------



## Bristol_Rob

I've just finished building a tortoise pen in the garden.

There are a lot more photos in my Instagram link below if you want to see more.


----------



## Droogs

Very nice, is tortoise incontenence a bit of a problem then


----------



## Bristol_Rob

Droogs said:


> Very nice, is tortoise incontenence a bit of a problem then



He's just shaking that one off


----------



## clogs

Bristol Rob,
we feed as many local Hedgehogs as poss.....but as u know a lot of these were taken from Greece in the early days.....I would like to see one turn up in our garden.....
we have a big nature garden area set aside.....
Ps the house sparrows are building nests already....


----------



## gcusick

Stigmorgan said:


> Only Oompah Loompahs and jockeys (and Warwick Davis) could walk under that


And limbo dancers. Never forget limbo dancers.


----------



## paulrbarnard

gcusick said:


> And limbo dancers. Never forget limbo dancers.


They are just stuck in a rut going nowhere


----------



## gcusick

paulrbarnard said:


> They are just stuck in a rut going nowhere


But they bend over backwards to please


----------



## NickVanBeest

Got asked to design a bed for a kinkster... this is what I came up with:




Mattress is 200x180, and height to the top is 180.

Now to get sign-off, and start building


----------



## Garno

Used the last of my secret Santa blanks

Yellow Cedar Burr
Black Chrome
Sanded to 600grit
Sanding sealer, Burnish cream and CA finish


----------



## minotauruk

First time making a chess board for my boy....I can see me getting beaten by him many times!


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Finally finished this Welsh Oak bench with Gabon Ebony dovetail keys. This is the final ‘proper’ project in this current workshop before the overwhelmingly daunting task of packing everything up ready for moving house!!


----------



## Lorenzl

I have just completed another light ~130mm square and ~100mm high from Iroko and acrylic.

It has 32 RGB LED's so can have any RGB colour from the range I program into it and is selectable by the user. It has four light level settings and runs off any 5V power source as long as it has a mico USB on the lamp end. The light will remember the last colour setting.


----------



## Stigmorgan

NickVanBeest said:


> Got asked to design a bed for a kinkster... this is what I came up with:
> 
> View attachment 131521
> 
> 
> Mattress is 200x180, and height to the top is 180.
> 
> Now to get sign-off, and start building


Is that a cage under the bed?


----------



## NickVanBeest

Stigmorgan said:


> Is that a cage under the bed?


Yep


----------



## isaac3d

This is not a master work by any means, but it is a way of putting some offcuts to good use. If you have a wife/mother/grandmother/sister/aunt/girlfriend who makes crochet squares for blankets etc, they may appreciate something like this. Just an idea, anyway. Yes I am being sexist, but I'd bet 95% of people doing crochet work are female  If you don't know what they might want such a thing for.... well, there's an opportunity to start a conversation and earn some brownie points. Not to mention pointing out just how useful woodworking is! 
The board is cherry and the lid is American black walnut (much too good to waste), the pins are 4mm diameter brass rod.

PS I forgot to mention, this one is for my sister, whose eldest daughter is about to have twins, so she is busy with her crochet needle.


----------



## Westwood

Some of the things on here are superb, way above my skill level and this is a great thread to scroll back through for inspiration.
This isn't something I made but I'd like to make it whole again . A gift from my father some fifty years ago, but I can't remember how to close the magic Matchbox... any body familiar with these ? I think this is about 100 years old but not sure. Any body help me to identify the wood too please ?


----------



## D_W

relatively finished guitar (sorry about the orange basement carpet!) Some nits to fix and need to make an ebony truss rod cover and knobs. nearly a copy of a les paul special aside from bits that would be a problem if I ever get overrun with my own stuff in the future and want to sell it (most notably, the peghead isn't the same shape as gibson's). 

mahogany body, mexican box substitute (castelo) for the fingerboard and peghead overlay. Neck is cherry sawn from a table blank (big enough so that you can saw something straight (quartered with no runout in any direction) out of the lot that will make a guitar neck.

Not a perfect guitar, but all part of learning (plays fine, intonates fine). Electrics bits are taken from a gibson setup. Not a huge fan of gibson guitars, but their pickup, switch and jack setups sound good.

Of all things, it looks like I went half to sleep on the very last fret slot (fortunately, anything on the low side is never going to be played on it).









I guess the back covers need to be installed, too. 

Finish is just buttonlac, french polished. Low fuss to apply and low fuss to touch up in the future, but does have a bit of a 70s guitar look.

Nut looks crooked (maybe a shadow?) fortunately, it's not actually crooked.


----------



## Kevin-G

wow, some great stuff on this thread, pics of a on outside bench i built, finished off with left over composite decking boards.


----------



## Jones

Westwood said:


> Some of the things on here are superb, way above my skill level and this is a great thread to scroll back through for inspiration.
> This isn't something I made but I'd like to make it whole again . A gift from my father some fifty years ago, but I can't remember how to close the magic Matchbox... any body familiar with these ? I think this is about 100 years old but not sure. Any body help me to identify the wood too please ?
> 
> View attachment 131630
> View attachment 131631
> View attachment 131632


Does the bottom part of the lid slide back and forth with a slot round the hinge and is then locked in place by the top of the lid


----------



## Westwood

Something like that yes. No hinge but the two part lid pivots round the pin. The trick has to be to move the bottom part of the lid away from the raised notch and then the top of the lid locks it into place. Thats the theory i think but how to do that. maybe I need to post a video /


----------



## TRITON

Kevin-G said:


> wow, some great stuff on this thread, pics of a on outside bench i built, finished off with left over composite decking boards.


Good idea, better than timber for a maintenance free solution.


This is a project ive started,yet to finish, and I really need to make a few changes to to give it a proper use.

A bit back a local shop closed down and the builder dumped fittings, odds and ends in the skip. I got two old soft drinks crates, probably from about the 70's Irn Bru.
So what to do with an irn bru crate.
This was my idea
It's too low just to put an upholstered board on as a stool, but to use it for that, and make use of its internals for storage i needed to lift it up to a decent level.

So have taken 4 tall Irn Bru drinks cans. Wrapped them in 3m helicopter tape to preserve the painted/printed logos, with the notion to use them as feet/legs.

I think the few pics i took at the time will explain how i went about this.



I used concrete to provide strength to the cans, to stop them crushing, and also to set in M10 threaded rods to be used to mount them to the crate




Once I'd got the concrete in there i used an oscillating saw to vibrate the air out, make it nice and solid, and capped each off with an oak disc. It affords a better interface between the top of each can and the bottom of the crate





To secure the legs inside as the was nothing to bolt into ive made shaped blocks in pine, drilled right through and secured with a washer,spring washer and nut.


I did initially line the inside with irn bru blue coloured vinyl,plus orange sticky backed felt-Ive a huge roll of it now  (you can see it in the 5th pic down in the background through the bottom of the crate) looking to retain the compartments as maybe some sort of drinks cabinet, but it became too convoluted and in truth it was losing its ability to act as a store for anything else, so my next idea is to remove the majority of the bottle compartments, line it with the irn bru livery blue in felt covered board and it have a simple lid, upholstered in the same blue vinyl as a seat cover.

The idea has worked out pretty well, but the 4 tall cans full of concrete has made the entire thing pretty heavy, perhaps too heavy. But i still like the overall design, especially the legs, they make for a nice touch.


----------



## Tris

Great idea and a fun piece.

What is going on with the door frames in pic 4 though? I'm getting 80s music video vibes


----------



## Shan

Playing around with a bit of chestnut. Finished with beeswax and oil but seems to have lost its shine. Might need a 2nd coat?


----------



## JBaz

I made these for my daughter-in-law's birthday.

The frames are maple, the feet are walnut and the roof is laminate flooring.

The writing round the base was routed on a cheap (Chinese) CNC engraver then filled with wood filler and sanded back before finishing. 

Just to give some scale, the candles (LED) are 100mm diameter.


----------



## Blister

Shan said:


> Playing around with a bit of chestnut. Finished with beeswax and oil but seems to have lost its shine. Might need a 2nd coat?View attachment 131659



I thought you put the oil first , maybe I am wrong .If so ignore me


----------



## Stigmorgan

@Shan @Blister agreed, I would build a few coats of wax once the oil has had chance to dry into the wood properly


----------



## grumpycorn

Shadow box for my daughter’s craft project (no butterfly’s were harmed in keeping her quiet for an hour). 

A chance to use up some bendy beech I had squirrelled away and more importantly try out my new Fuji hvlp, which in my complete novice opinion is brilliant!


----------



## Lons

An important milestone coming up this month so I've been beavering away for ages making this in secret, (anyone who's tried to keep a secret from their missus will appreciate just how much effort that takes )

Anyway, it's a book box thingy around 10" long and 2" thick. main outer in walnut, pages are ash and the bookmark/handle is veneers glued in a former. Lettering was cut in with a very small V carving chisel then highlighted with a pyrography burning pen, the drawer section is also walnut with oak bottom has a magnet to keep if in place if turned upside down. The memory card is oak covers with half a dozen pages of photocopied photos on 170gsm paper glued back to back so like stiff cars and bound using secret binding method I found on youtube and the fake 50p is off ebay. Finish was a coat of sanding sealer followed by several cats of wax. I've edited the photos so you 'orrible lot can't have a laugh at my expense. 
It's not perfect but nothing the missus will see so hopefully all good and worthy of many brownie points.


----------



## Stigmorgan

@Lons dude that is absolutely stunning


----------



## Shan

Blister said:


> I thought you put the oil first , maybe I am wrong .If so ignore me


I've made a mix of beeswax and linseed oil and another mix of mineral oil and beeswax. I haven't tried the oil first method as appears most people make up a mix, but could try it I guess. The linseed oil alone gives a dull finish hence why I've mixed it with wax.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Shan said:


> I've made a mix of beeswax and linseed oil and another mix of mineral oil and beeswax. I haven't tried the oil first method as appears most people make up a mix, but could try it I guess. The linseed oil alone gives a dull finish hence why I've mixed it with wax.


Perhaps just try a couple coats of just the wax over your mix of oil and wax to build up the sheen you want.


----------



## Blister

Shan said:


> I've made a mix of beeswax and linseed oil and another mix of mineral oil and beeswax. I haven't tried the oil first method as appears most people make up a mix, but could try it I guess. The linseed oil alone gives a dull finish hence why I've mixed it with wax.



I normally use Danish oil , Give a liberal coat leave it for 15 min's, dry off , Then apply a wax of choice.


----------



## TRITON

Tris said:


> Great idea and a fun piece.
> 
> What is going on with the door frames in pic 4 though? I'm getting 80s music video vibes


The furthest frame is on an angled section of wall. but int truth the angle of the frames is way off anyway. Had a devil of a job fitting a couple of new doors. 
The buildings shifted due to subsidence and most of the doors and frames were left really out of true.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Two pens - one rollerball, one fountain Ukraine flag coloured blanks from Beaufort Inks, made for a raffle. Both Leveche, one chrome one gunmetal. I took care to align the stripes but as the top and bottom sections are different the stripes are diffent widths so don't align anyway.


----------



## Garno

Phil Pascoe said:


> Two pens - one rollerball, one fountain Ukraine flag coloured blanks from Beaufort Inks, made for a raffle. Both Leveche, one chrome one gunmetal. I took care to align the stripes but as the top and bottom sections are different the stripes are diffent widths so don't align anyway.
> 
> View attachment 131806
> View attachment 131809



Lovely pens you have made and I think you have chosen well with the leveche as it seems to lend itself well with stripes.
Good luck with the raffle mate.


----------



## Shan

Blister said:


> I normally use Danish oil , Give a liberal coat leave it for 15 min's, dry off , Then apply a wax of choice.


Thanks. Is Danish oil foodsafe? Ideally using oils that are but haven't come across Danish oil here (Portugal). The wax is hard hence why I mixed it with oil so don't think that it'll be easy to apply.
Regards


----------



## Shan

Stigmorgan said:


> Perhaps just try a couple coats of just the wax over your mix of oil and wax to build up the sheen you want.


Cheers Stig. The wax is hard hence why I mix it with oil(s) but can give it a shot. Do you wait for it to dry before polishing it? Does it help to do it on the lathe or is a hand polish just as effective? I've tried both methods but haven't noticed too much difference. Ideally want to use food safe oils hence why I've used linseed and mineral. 
Regards


----------



## Blister

Shan said:


> Thanks. Is Danish oil foodsafe? Ideally using oils that are but haven't come across Danish oil here (Portugal). The wax is hard hence why I mixed it with oil so don't think that it'll be easy to apply.
> Regards



From the www

"The answer is yes! A completely cured Danish oil is completely safe for your kitchen wood furniture or wooden cutting boards. Danish oils always make a strong bonding with the wood surface and don't do any reactions with food substances. *It remains still making it safe for food items that we use for eating*."


----------



## Stigmorgan

Shan said:


> Cheers Stig. The wax is hard hence why I mix it with oil(s) but can give it a shot. Do you wait for it to dry before polishing it? Does it help to do it on the lathe or is a hand polish just as effective? I've tried both methods but haven't noticed too much difference. Ideally want to use food safe oils hence why I've used linseed and mineral.
> Regards


All on the lathe, I rub the wax into the wood then run the lathe as fast as I can (safely) and use the fricton to heat up and melt the wax into the wood, once I've applied 2 or 3 coats this way I used soft tissue with the piece still spinning to lightly buff until I'm happy with the shine. I do believe Danish Oil is food safe.


----------



## TRITON

Phil Pascoe said:


> Two pens - one rollerball, one fountain Ukraine flag coloured blanks from Beaufort Inks, made for a raffle. Both Leveche, one chrome one gunmetal. I took care to align the stripes but as the top and bottom sections are different the stripes are diffent widths so don't align anyway.
> 
> View attachment 131806
> View attachment 131809


Those stripes really make this design stand out from the crowd


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Just when I was thinking if I never see a polyester blank again it'll be too soon, my wife tracked down another two.
Beastly stuff to turn.


----------



## ALB

Lorenzl said:


> I have just completed another light ~130mm square and ~100mm high from Iroko and acrylic.
> 
> It has 32 RGB LED's so can have any RGB colour from the range I program into it and is selectable by the user. It has four light level settings and runs off any 5V power source as long as it has a mico USB on the lamp end. The light will remember the last colour setting.
> 
> View attachment 131514



I love this! Do you have anything more on this build?


----------



## nickds1

Lorenzl said:


> I have just completed another light ~130mm square and ~100mm high from Iroko and acrylic.
> 
> It has 32 RGB LED's so can have any RGB colour from the range I program into it and is selectable by the user. It has four light level settings and runs off any 5V power source as long as it has a mico USB on the lamp end. The light will remember the last colour setting.
> 
> View attachment 131514


Are they WS2812B/NeoPixels? They're great - I've been using an ESP01 and ESP32s to drive them using the Arduino FastLED and NeoPixel libraries.

Incredibly flexible. Love your design - very clean.


----------



## Lorenzl

Thank you all for the comments and likes.

The basic idea was not mine; I found lots of this design on the net when searching for “acrylic wood light”. I decided a plain colour was a bit boring.

V1: ~100x100x100, Trinket microprocessor, vertical rotary encoder.

Pro’s: Looks compact and well shaped
5V microprocessor

Cons: can’t write to the internal memory so had to add a eeprom board.
Had to cut a lot of material out for the encode activation wheel
Would need to add a button for dimming
Trinket didn’t have enough pins

V2: ~130x130x100, ItsyBitsy MO microprocessor, horizontal rotary encoder.

Pro’s:
5V microprocessor
Custom pcb

Cons: Looks squat and heavy – lighter wood may help it look better?
Write to the internal memory entails shorting a pin to ground
I prefer the wheel activation over the knob

I usually use a ESP micro but needed 5V which would mean adding a LDO. Not a problem but more work, I didn’t need the wireless function and it is larger. This would be useful if I decided to go for Alexa or similar implementation.

I was also thinking about using a Pi Pico as it is 5V and still quite small.

The programming was in Python as I thought I would try it. It is better in one way than Arduino as Python does not need compiling


----------



## Lorenzl

A "clock" with outside temp display @nickds1 Using a mini NodeMcu with WS2812B's and the Fast LED Library. I have started to use ESP12-F's but it is a pain if the code needs changing once soldered to a pcb!


----------



## nickds1

Good projects @Lorenzl - If you like odd clocks, I run the Google neonixie-l group at neonixie-l - Google Groups

Main passion is neon, but will do other display technology if pushed!


----------



## ArtieFufkin

D_W said:


> relatively finished guitar



That looks excellent, very well done.
I'm coming towards the end of a scratch built Tele with P90s (my first attempt at being a luthier), so I know how much work has gone into that.
I'd like to build a set neck LP style guitar next, ensuring the neck break angle is correct worries me!

Have you built guitars before?


----------



## D_W

ArtieFufkin said:


> That looks excellent, very well done.
> I'm coming towards the end of a scratch built Tele with P90s (my first attempt at being a luthier), so I know how much work has gone into that.
> I'd like to build a set neck LP style guitar next, ensuring the neck break angle is correct worries me!
> 
> Have you built guitars before?



I few years ago, I built a half dozen or 7 fender guitar types. the neck angle varies from one guitar to the next so you really have to do some initial calculations or mock up with a pattern (and have the bridge you'll be using in hand so you can use it to see how much string height you have) and add about 1/8th above your mock up for frets and lower-action string height. 

For this second guitar, I wanted just 1.8 or 1.6 degrees of string angle but something was amiss and I didn't test fit the neck. By the time I was done clamping it, some part of the neck area made everything around 1 degree, so it's bottomed out. 

Now I know when I build the next one, I have plenty of room for 2 degrees without making the bridge too high and I'll be a little more careful about just how dead flat the area is where the top of the body meets the fingerboard. 

If you do one with a carved top (which I did for the one before this) there's a lot more sort of ranging things to be sure they're good, but it can be done by placing a bridge, measuring where it is on top of the carved top and putting a mock nut in place at the end of a neck and running a string on the high and low E. 

I was far more careful on the first guitar and that all came out great. I think there's a small undulation in the right side of the neck pocket (on the remaining wood on the guitar body) and it was worth about half a degree - which is a couple of turns of the bridge screw. 

That's my poor man's tip (I have the idea of making a whole bunch of jigs) - to mark the centerline, make the neck pocket joint tight enough that it will stay in place when you're testing the joint and set a nut in place so you can stretch a string from the nut to the bridge and make sure everything is visually OK in three dimensions (especially on a carved top where the surface in some places is closer to flat (pickup to bridge or tailpiece) and then everywhere else falls off.


----------



## Alpha-Dave

A piece of sycamore, I think. This really was firewood at the start, it included a small bug-entry hole that disappeared after the first few mm were removed. 









Fortunately the cracks were not very deep so I filled with CA glue.





The spalting was nicely ballanced. 3x coats of Danish oil plus buffed wax finish.






















I’m told I have made one of Mario’s hats.


----------



## Yorkieguy

I may be wrong - I often am, but that looks to me more like olive ash than sycamore. 

(it's definitely tree wood)  

A lovely end result from what appears at first sight to an unpromising looking piece of firewood.


----------



## Stigmorgan

@Alpha-Dave @Yorkieguy definately sycamore, here's my last sycamore turning 




Your browser is not able to display this video.


----------



## Shan

Stigmorgan said:


> @Alpha-Dave @Yorkieguy definately sycamore, here's my last sycamore turning
> View attachment 132098
> View attachment 132099
> View attachment 132100


That looks really nice. I must try some sycamore but haven't come across any here. I like the light colour. Well done.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Sale of the house fell through end of last week being only 3 weeks away from completion, so with a bunch of tools and wood already packed away ready for moving I thought i’d spend a few hours of my day off on the lathe yesterday. Nice chunk of Oak Burr. Largest bowl i’ve turned on this lathe, it’s around 12” diameter and sits something like 3.5” tall


----------



## Droogs

Oak can be so pretty sometimes.


----------



## Jameshow

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Sale of the house fell through end of last week being only 3 weeks away from completion, so with a bunch of tools and wood already packed away ready for moving I thought i’d spend a few hours of my day off on the lathe yesterday. Nice chunk of Oak Burr. Largest bowl i’ve turned on this lathe, it’s around 12” diameter and sits something like 3.5” tall
> 
> View attachment 132194
> View attachment 132190
> View attachment 132191
> View attachment 132192
> View attachment 132193


What a bummer, hope you get sorted soon. Nice bowel!


----------



## nickds1

Jameshow said:


> What a bummer, hope you get sorted soon. Nice bowel!


Too much detail!


----------



## kinverkid

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Sale of the house fell through end of last week being only 3 weeks away from completion, so with a bunch of tools and wood already packed away ready for moving I thought i’d spend a few hours of my day off on the lathe yesterday. Nice chunk of Oak Burr. Largest bowl i’ve turned on this lathe, it’s around 12” diameter and sits something like 3.5” tall
> 
> Really nice.


----------



## Shan

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Sale of the house fell through end of last week being only 3 weeks away from completion, so with a bunch of tools and wood already packed away ready for moving I thought i’d spend a few hours of my day off on the lathe yesterday. Nice chunk of Oak Burr. Largest bowl i’ve turned on this lathe, it’s around 12” diameter and sits something like 3.5” tall
> 
> View attachment 132194
> View attachment 132190
> View attachment 132191
> View attachment 132192
> View attachment 132193


The bowl looks great, well done. I like the touch on the base. Did you make up a stamp with the initials on yourself? Then burn it into the wood? Smart idea. 🖒🖒🖒


----------



## Blister

Yorkieguy said:


> I may be wrong - I often am, but that looks to me more like olive ash than sycamore.
> 
> *(it's definitely tree wood)*
> 
> A lovely end result from what appears at first sight to an unpromising looking piece of firewood.



You sure ? It may be dogwood , You can tell by it's bark


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Shan said:


> The bowl looks great, well done. I like the touch on the base. Did you make up a stamp with the initials on yourself? Then burn it into the wood? Smart idea. 🖒🖒🖒



Thanks Shan!

I had a couple of different size branding irons made via etsy a few years ago. Something like…




__





This item is unavailable - Etsy


Find the perfect handmade gift, vintage & on-trend clothes, unique jewellery, and more… lots more.




www.etsy.com





Fairly cheap for what it is. I only got the brass stamp made, then made myself a handle with a stainless steel bolt of the right size to attach the stamps, then heat them up with a blow torch


----------



## Jameshow

nickds1 said:


> Too much detail!


Sorry should have been a stand up! 
Predictive text!!


----------



## Shan

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Thanks Shan!
> 
> I had a couple of different size branding irons made via etsy a few years ago. Something like…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This item is unavailable - Etsy
> 
> 
> Find the perfect handmade gift, vintage & on-trend clothes, unique jewellery, and more… lots more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.etsy.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fairly cheap for what it is. I only got the brass stamp made, then made myself a handle with a stainless steel bolt of the right size to attach the stamps, then heat them up with a blow torch


Cheers. Just now need to design a logo or stamp. Been playing around with a few idea's but nothing quite suitable yet. But good to know where I can get something made. Regards Shan


----------



## mr rusty

Just finished some doors and windows in accoya


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

A lot of the workshop was packed away ready before our buyers pulled out last minute a week ago (have since re-sold), so one of the last things to be packed away were my wood lathe tools, so i turned a branch of yew i had for mother’s day tomorrow. Replaced the bark inclusion and filled some cracks with some resin and pearl-ex pearl inlay powder


----------



## Stigmorgan

@Sawdust=manglitter that is stunning


----------



## TomW

Had a go at a bit of "art".

Frames made from offcuts of the shelves below with a beech ply bit of scroll saw work and a photo to back it all. Will eventually mount them on the wall. While mitres are always a bit of a faff with my gear they turned out ok.


----------



## Alpha-Dave

This was some cherry from the same stash as before; cut in 2016 when a plot was cleared for a building, I wet, rough turned and left to dry. Given the complex branches coming out of this section of the tree, one side cracked and twisted and I thought this was going to be a write-off; I have not seen drying cracks that go all the way through the walls that don’t meet the rim. However, filling with black-tinted epoxy seems to have worked well (normal 5 min epoxy + black spirt stain).

Finished with 3x coats of Danish oil + buffed wax.

Next week, this one is going to a lady retiring from where the wood was cut.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Alpha-Dave said:


> This was some cherry from the same stash as before; cut in 2016 when a plot was cleared for a building, I wet, rough turned and left to dry. Given the complex branches coming out of this section of the tree, one side cracked and twisted and I thought this was going to be a write-off; I have not seen drying cracks that go all the way through the walls that don’t meet the rim. However, filling with black-tinted epoxy seems to have worked well (normal 5 min epoxy + black spirt stain).
> 
> Finished with 3x coats of Danish oil + buffed wax.
> 
> Next week, this one is going to a lady retiring from where the wood was cut.
> 
> View attachment 132552
> View attachment 132553
> View attachment 132554
> View attachment 132555
> View attachment 132556


That is absolutely stunning


----------



## Essex Barn Workshop

I know we can all make tables, and I've made plenty, but this one I was especially pleased with.
A client wanted this existing rectangular table plus the two rounded extra pieces from another oak table made into a large study table to an exact dimension. 

By exact, I mean that originally it was to be 2200mm wide, which was changed to 2190mm and 730mm hign. Later he asked for felt protectors on the underside of the legs, which meant reducing the height of the legs to allow for the 3mm thickness of the felt.

I don't want it to come across as him being difficult, he was a joy to work with and even popped into the workshop occasionally to see the work in progress,, overall a great client.






As you may notice, they are different thicknesses so everything would need to go through my thicknesser.

I cut everything into boards of identical width (but varying lengths) on my table saw. The width was determined by the minimum width of the pieces within the donor items. The waste is to the left.






After much thicknessing and sanding, I set the 15 pieces i chose to use out and began the glue up.






Originally my client wanted a metal leg frame, but having enough of the oak left over to make simple legs, he agreed that that was the better option. I made a sturdy frame for the underside and a rail, not shown in this picture. Everything got two coats of Osmo.






The finished table delivered and installed in his study.


----------



## Shibby




----------



## Orraloon

Nice looking plane Shibby. Whats the timber?
Regards
John


----------



## Shibby

Orraloon said:


> Nice looking plane Shibby. Whats the timber?
> Regards
> John


Hello John. It's a rock maple body and the wedge is a piece of figured ash that I couldn't throw away. Glad I didn't!


----------



## OCtoolguy

You all leave me in awe. I'm posting this as it's the latest thing I'm making. I've made many of them in the past but this is the first time I've used these woods in combination. In particular, padauk. The top and bottom are padauk, the mid sections are poplar and cherry. Unfortunately, I wasn't aware that I had to be careful with the padauk bleeding. I spritzed the project with 90% denatured alcohol to see what it was going to look like after an oil finish. It immediately did this. I'm sad. If anybody has any suggestions other than the firebox, I'd love to hear them. Thanks.


----------



## Simo

My latest bass build for a friend of mine.. Swamp Ash body with Walnut scratchplate & control plate, stained black and finished with Osmo. Maple neck, Ebony fretboard with Maple inlays, Swamp Ash headstock veneers.


----------



## Shibby

Simo said:


> My latest bass build for a friend of mine.. Swamp Ash body with Walnut scratchplate & control plate, stained black and finished with Osmo. Maple neck, Ebony fretboard with Maple inlays, Swamp Ash headstock veneers.


That's gorgeous!


----------



## suvman

Shibby said:


> Very impressive, well done.


----------



## Chris_Pallet

Just a basic small garden table.
Made out of some old pallet wood and half a tin of paint found in shed. 
Got tired of putting the drinks on the floor ha!


----------



## suvman

Some simple chopping boards for family members. I like how the oak medullary rays look like fish scales


----------



## Orraloon

Simo said:


> My latest bass build for a friend of mine.. Swamp Ash body with Walnut scratchplate & control plate, stained black and finished with Osmo. Maple neck, Ebony fretboard with Maple inlays, Swamp Ash headstock veneers.


Very nice. Did you burn it or is it stain?
Regards
John


----------



## Farm Labourer

Here's a tapered-leg, bow-fronted console table in oak. Drawers are traditional dovetails.


----------



## Jameshow

Farm Labourer said:


> Here's a tapered-led, bow-fronted console table in oak. Drawers are traditional dovetails.View attachment 132829
> View attachment 132830
> View attachment 132831
> View attachment 132832


That us just lovely! 

Not often do I envy such workmanship but I do here!


----------



## Paul200

Farm Labourer said:


> Here's a tapered-led, bow-fronted console table in oak. Drawers are traditional dovetails.


That is just lovely!


----------



## Simo

Orraloon said:


> Very nice. Did you burn it or is it stain?
> Regards
> John



Thanks, it's stained.


----------



## robgul

Fruit, veg and plant stand for a corner shop - made for the supplier who rents it to the shop. Pretty simple construction with pocket hole joinery, partially pre-built and assembled on site. Finished with two coats of an antique wax-based stain for a rustic, artisan look. Pictured ready to be loaded up

.



(The column in the foreground is a supporting pillar for the roof of the shop!)


----------



## Jameshow

robgul said:


> Fruit, veg and plant stand for a corner shop - made for the supplier who rents it to the shop. Pretty simple construction with pocket hole joinery, partially pre-built and assembled on site. Finished with two coats of an antique wax-based stain for a rustic, artisan look. Pictured ready to be loaded up
> 
> .View attachment 132845
> 
> 
> (The column in the foreground is a supporting pillar for the roof of the shop!)


Must have been tight in your garage!


----------



## robgul

Jameshow said:


> Must have been tight in your garage!


 - it would have been but I have a portable bench that goes outside so I built it in front of my garage .... pre-built the three frames and cut/drilled all the rest of the slats and braces etc ("dry assembled" with loads of trigger clamps to check it all worked) then stained all the timber. Just had to assemble it on site with structural stuff screwed and all the shelf slats fixed with staples from a battery nail gun. 60 minutes on-site.


----------



## paulrbarnard

Farm Labourer said:


> Here's a tapered-leg, bow-fronted console table in oak. Drawers are traditional dovetails.View attachment 132829
> View attachment 132830
> View attachment 132831
> View attachment 132832


That is fantastic work. I made one that looks very similar about 20 years ago. I didn’t put drawers in mine but it has stood in the hall of various houses ever since. Yours looks like it will certainly become an heirloom piece. The simplicity of lines stay fresh forever.


----------



## blackteaonesugar

A simple little Cherry spice/kitchen shelf, built to a budget.


----------



## niall Y

A thing-ummy-bob to aid drilling long holes on a lathe, along with a mandrel to help turn the outside diameter, afterwards,


----------



## Fitzroy

blackteaonesugar said:


> A simple little Cherry spice/kitchen shelf, built to a budget.
> 
> View attachment 132882
> 
> View attachment 132883


Lovely! What are the black dots in the end of the through tenons?


----------



## Morag Jones

blackteaonesugar said:


> A simple little Cherry spice/kitchen shelf, built to a budget.
> 
> View attachment 132882
> 
> View attachment 132883


wow love this hope to copy your idea some time soon.


----------



## Bingy man

I’ve some beautiful examples of turning on this thread truly exquisite in detail and design. Back to my level of woodwork I made these planters out of reclaimed fence panels and waste timber lying around my workshop. Had to buy the decking as didn’t have enough timber and made the 2 stands for the water butts to compliment each other . I haven’t decided on the final finish for the planters as yet but I do like the varied grain pattern . The timber tore up a fair bit as it was damp but I think it adds to the overall appearance-well that’s my story and I’m sticking to it


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Fitzroy said:


> Lovely! What are the black dots in the end of the through tenons?



Cheers. They're little walnut tapered pegs. Tapped into the tenon ends gently to give detail and also very slightly give a wedge effect, spreading the Tenon ends a smidge.


----------



## Bingy man

Bingy man said:


> I’ve some beautiful examples of turning on this thread truly exquisite in detail and design. Back to my level of woodwork I made these planters out of reclaimed fence panels and waste timber lying around my workshop. Had to buy the decking as didn’t have enough timber and made the 2 stands for the water butts to compliment each other . I haven’t decided on the final finish for the planters as yet but I do like the varied grain pattern . The timber tore up a fair bit as it was damp but I think it adds to the overall appearance-well that’s my story and I’m sticking to it


Thanks for the likes-it’s much appreciated


----------



## Stigmorgan

Bingy man said:


> Thanks for the likes-it’s much appreciated


Your stuff looks great, I love a bit up upcycling, I've reused pallets to build compost bins in the school allotment and a few toy sheds in the playgrounds


----------



## ArtieFufkin

I have just finished making a guitar

Body - horrible looking lump of Ash.





Neck - maple blank


----------



## Stigmorgan

Some of you may have seen my thread asking for opinions on a piece of oak I had on the lathe, 




Your browser is not able to display this video.




Unfortunately the rot was too advanced, after cutting a tenon and turning it round a huge pice of the foot flew off so I had to remove the stem and remaining part of the foot and turn it into a simple bowl, cutting this was a nightmare, even with a freshly ground edge I was struggling to get clean cuts so ended up doing about 3 hours of sanding this morning, a few marks I couldn't get out but the honey gold colour makes up for that...


----------



## cedricb

to compliment my katz-moses block!


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> Some of you may have seen my thread asking for opinions on a piece of oak I had on the lathe,
> View attachment 132947
> 
> Unfortunately the rot was too advanced, after cutting a tenon and turning it round a huge pice of the foot flew off so I had to remove the stem and remaining part of the foot and turn it into a simple bowl, cutting this was a nightmare, even with a freshly ground edge I was struggling to get clean cuts so ended up doing about 3 hours of sanding this morning, a few marks I couldn't get out but the honey gold colour makes up for that...
> View attachment 132948
> View attachment 132949
> View attachment 132950
> View attachment 132951
> View attachment 132952
> View attachment 132953
> View attachment 132954


I thought you said it was toast!!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> I thought you said it was toast!!


It almost was  when the foot flew apart I almost lost my temper and came close to smashing it


----------



## NickDReed

After several weeks of emails back and forth with the not so very helpful customer service (you wouldn't think it) department at Draper. They kindly informed me that the, at what can best be described as, somewhat usable bandsaw I have of theirs is no longer supported by them and they do not hold, import or order parts for the machine anymore. None of their current models use compatible parts (at least not the parts I need). By the end of the conversation they may as well have said "just fornicate off".

Not to be deterred, and without the budget currently to upgrade my machine for one of those tall slim beautiful Laguna or Jet models I see people flaunting in the background of a picture of their latest masterpiece of design and craftsmanship. I set about fabricobbling a solution to my problem.

As with much of what I make it leans more on the functional side of design. And I think probably also leans too!!

Upper and lower blade guides.

I will be taking order should anyone be interested in this very stylish aftermarket modification. If we could get together and come up with a rota which you can all stick to when sending in your orders I would greatly appreciate it so as not to crash my emails!

*free picture of a lazy cat


----------



## Fitzroy

NickDReed said:


> After several weeks of emails back and forth with the not so very helpful customer service (you wouldn't think it) department at Draper. They kindly informed me that the, at what can best be described as, somewhat usable bandsaw I have of theirs is no longer supported by them and they do not hold, import or order parts for the machine anymore. None of their current models use compatible parts (at least not the parts I need). By the end of the conversation they may as well have said "just fornicate off".
> 
> Not to be deterred, and without the budget currently to upgrade my machine for one of those tall slim beautiful Laguna or Jet models I see people flaunting in the background of a picture of their latest masterpiece of design and craftsmanship. I set about fabricobbling a solution to my problem.
> 
> As with much of what I make it leans more on the functional side of design. And I think probably also leans too!!
> 
> Upper and lower blade guides.
> 
> I will be taking order should anyone be interested in this very stylish aftermarket modification. If we could get together and come up with a rota which you can all stick to when sending in your orders I would greatly appreciate it so as not to crash my emails!
> 
> *free picture of a lazy catView attachment 132966
> View attachment 132967
> View attachment 132968
> View attachment 132969
> View attachment 132970


 Great job and great new word fabricobbling, added to be vocab!


----------



## Jameshow

I need to make a simalar set up for my Ryobi bandsaw. 
Someone before me has messed with it!


----------



## NickDReed

Jameshow said:


> I need to make a simalar set up for my Ryobi bandsaw.
> Someone before me has messed with it!



If I ever sell this someone will say the same thing!


----------



## Rodpr

Stigmorgan said:


> Some of you may have seen my thread asking for opinions on a piece of oak I had on the lathe,
> View attachment 132947
> 
> Unfortunately the rot was too advanced, after cutting a tenon and turning it round a huge pice of the foot flew off so I had to remove the stem and remaining part of the foot and turn it into a simple bowl, cutting this was a nightmare, even with a freshly ground edge I was struggling to get clean cuts so ended up doing about 3 hours of sanding this morning, a few marks I couldn't get out but the honey gold colour makes up for that...
> View attachment 132948
> View attachment 132949
> View attachment 132950
> View attachment 132951
> View attachment 132952
> View attachment 132953
> View attachment 132954


Really beautiful work - love the rays across the grain!


----------



## clogs

Nick
gotta say it's a pretty good cobble up (lol) but I always round over the corners......
to many times I've had a catch....getting older = loose skin......hahaha...
our stray...Polly....looks a bit like ur's......


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Couple of quick pens turned on the lathe to cure this morning’s boredom. The stainless pen kit is 4000yr old Bog Oak, and the gunmetal pen kit is Snakewood.
















Snakewood is a bit of a nightmare to work with due to it’s brittleness and tendency to split/splinter. The first blank ended up as expensive scrap… i duct taped around the second blank to make sure it didn’t split when drilling etc!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Rodpr said:


> Really beautiful work - love the rays across the grain!


Thanks, hopefully the 2nd half of the log will look just as good, this piece of oak is definately one of my favourite woods to look at but oh boy it was a PITA to work, didn't want to cut cleanly regardless of tool sharpness, sanding was an absolute chore.


----------



## rob1693

Stool stand for my strawberry planter yakisugi finish using a blowtorch brushed down with a scrubbing brush and several coats of linseed oil


----------



## Orraloon

NickDReed said:


> After several weeks of emails back and forth with the not so very helpful customer service (you wouldn't think it) department at Draper. They kindly informed me that the, at what can best be described as, somewhat usable bandsaw I have of theirs is no longer supported by them and they do not hold, import or order parts for the machine anymore. None of their current models use compatible parts (at least not the parts I need). By the end of the conversation they may as well have said "just fornicate off".
> 
> Not to be deterred, and without the budget currently to upgrade my machine for one of those tall slim beautiful Laguna or Jet models I see people flaunting in the background of a picture of their latest masterpiece of design and craftsmanship. I set about fabricobbling a solution to my problem.
> 
> As with much of what I make it leans more on the functional side of design. And I think probably also leans too!!
> 
> Upper and lower blade guides.
> 
> I will be taking order should anyone be interested in this very stylish aftermarket modification. If we could get together and come up with a rota which you can all stick to when sending in your orders I would greatly appreciate it so as not to crash my emails!
> 
> *free picture of a lazy catView attachment 132966
> View attachment 132967
> View attachment 132968
> View attachment 132969
> View attachment 132970


Well done and well fabricobbled. 
Cat picks get a big aww.
Regards
John


----------



## clogs

Orraloon,
here is her brother.....wife rescued them from a dumpster.......
we also foster new born pups as well.....
Diesel one of our 3 Border Collies, he just loves little ones....
one big happy family.....Cats (5) n dogs really get along well.........




their fav bed....clean washing......hahaha...


----------



## paulrbarnard

rob1693 said:


> Stool stand for my strawberry planter yakisugi finish using a blowtorch brushed down with a scrubbing brush and several coats of linseed oilView attachment 132993
> View attachment 132994


Wow the stool IN you house must be unbelievably spectacular if this is what you produce for an outdoor plant stand.


----------



## rob1693

Just a practice piece made with some 5x2 c16 off cuts and off cuts of 2x2 out of a skip


----------



## Stigmorgan

A little offcut from my last Oak bowl, this was unbelievably hard to hollow out, sanded nicely but really did not want to be cut.


----------



## Shan

Been playing around with a bit of eucalyptus today and wasn't expecting too much of it but turned ok and apart from a couple of cracks sanded fairly easy. It's very small tho. Definitely be on the lookout for more.


----------



## Jameshow

I've some spalted ash coming my way any good for turning?


----------



## kinverkid

Jameshow said:


> I've some spalted ash coming my way any good for turning?


Defo. Of course it depends on how 'punky' it is but spalting in Ash can really make some nice patterns possibly because of the different grain structures to that of the regular favourites like Beech and Maple. Can't wait to see what you 'turn' out.


----------



## Jameshow

kinverkid said:


> Defo. Of course it depends on how 'punky' it is but spalting in Ash can really make some nice patterns possibly because of the different grain structures to that of the regular favourites like Beech and Maple. Can't wait to see what you 'turn' out.


Easier to turn than oak that oak that halted my turning career?!


----------



## Shan

Jameshow said:


> I've some spalted ash coming my way any good for turning?


I can't say as new to the turning game but what I've found out so far is that chestnut is nice to turn and sands up well. Pine not too exciting but liked the eucalyptus for patterns. However I'm still trying to finish some wood a mate gave me but do not know the name of it. Fairly red, interesting grain but it's a mongrel to work with. Cracks, really difficult to sand and on the verge of giving up and using for firewood. So give it a shot and looking forward to seeing the results! 🖒🖒🖒


----------



## Tony Works Wood

Hi everyone. This was the last item I made, just to try out the table saw finger joint jig I made before it. The timber is from an old Pine wardrobe shelf panel.


----------



## pulleyt

I'm still messing about with Kumiko and came across a very interesting video of a jig for a mitre saw from *Wood Art Studio* that intrigued me. 



I've built a version of the jig and used it to develop some new patterns to fill out the hexagonal lids blanks I had left over from the batch of boxes I made at Christmas (see post).

The jig has been a revelation when it comes to cutting the joints for both the gridwork and for the in fill pieces and opened up new possibilities. 







Another recent revelation is steamed tulip wood. I was in Northumberland in February and dropped in on Duffield Timber on the way home to see what oddments they had for sale. I picked up several thin boards of the steamed tulip wood from the scrap bin and I quite like it. 






The two light wood boxes are beech and pine to use up some off-cuts from the wood pile.


----------



## mikej460

clogs said:


> Orraloon,
> here is her brother.....wife rescued them from a dumpster.......
> we also foster new born pups as well.....
> Diesel one of our 3 Border Collies, he just loves little ones....
> one big happy family.....Cats (5) n dogs really get along well.........
> View attachment 133021
> 
> their fav bed....clean washing......hahaha...
> View attachment 133022


From someone who's wife is besotted with cats (we have 7) that is a lovely dog...


----------



## NickDReed

clogs said:


> Nick
> gotta say it's a pretty good cobble up (lol) but I always round over the corners......
> to many times I've had a catch....getting older = loose skin......hahaha...
> our stray...Polly....looks a bit like ur's......
> View attachment 132975






Great shot! 

Zena is a ragdoll siamese cross. She moved in with my partner a few years ago. I would have told you "I'm not a cat person" back then. But she's won me over.


----------



## OCtoolguy

OCtoolguy said:


> You all leave me in awe. I'm posting this as it's the latest thing I'm making. I've made many of them in the past but this is the first time I've used these woods in combination. In particular, padauk. The top and bottom are padauk, the mid sections are poplar and cherry. Unfortunately, I wasn't aware that I had to be careful with the padauk bleeding. I spritzed the project with 90% denatured alcohol to see what it was going to look like after an oil finish. It immediately did this. I'm sad. If anybody has any suggestions other than the firebox, I'd love to hear them. Thanks.


Here is a follow up to my first post. I can't believe what craftspeople you all are. I am humbled to be in your company. I thought I'd show what I ended up with after doing what I call "repairs". I decided to soak the whole thing in water to see if the color would bleed and blend and make it a more even colored mess. Anyway, what I found was that it's not the water but the alcohol that made the padauk bleed. So, after 24 hours of soaking the glue let go and I was able to disassemble the whole thing. I let it all dry out and then did a re-glue. The color has evened out now to a sort of pinkish hue. I'm actually pretty happy with the results. Let me know what you all think of this "amateurish" attempt at scrolling a basket. Thanks.


----------



## kinverkid

OCtoolguy said:


> Here is a follow up to my first post. I can't believe what craftspeople you all are. I am humbled to be in your company. I thought I'd show what I ended up with after doing what I call "repairs". I decided to soak the whole thing in water to see if the color would bleed and blend and make it a more even colored mess. Anyway, what I found was that it's not the water but the alcohol that made the padauk bleed. So, after 24 hours of soaking the glue let go and I was able to disassemble the whole thing. I let it all dry out and then did a re-glue. The color has evened out now to a sort of pinkish hue. I'm actually pretty happy with the results. Let me know what you all think of this "amateurish" attempt at scrolling a basket. Thanks.


That has turned out fantastic. A beautiful basket weave.


----------



## OCtoolguy

kinverkid said:


> That has turned out fantastic. A beautiful basket weave.


Thank you for your kind remark. As I said, I'm humbled by what I'm seeing here on this thread. Way above my talent level.


----------



## Stigmorgan

OCtoolguy said:


> Here is a follow up to my first post. I can't believe what craftspeople you all are. I am humbled to be in your company. I thought I'd show what I ended up with after doing what I call "repairs". I decided to soak the whole thing in water to see if the color would bleed and blend and make it a more even colored mess. Anyway, what I found was that it's not the water but the alcohol that made the padauk bleed. So, after 24 hours of soaking the glue let go and I was able to disassemble the whole thing. I let it all dry out and then did a re-glue. The color has evened out now to a sort of pinkish hue. I'm actually pretty happy with the results. Let me know what you all think of this "amateurish" attempt at scrolling a basket. Thanks.


Beautiful pice of work there


----------



## Pete Hughes

Morning all,
Very boring but this my offering, a bench for a friend of mine,
Pete


----------



## jrm688

Here's the first 2 of 4 live edge walnut charcuterie boards I'm making. My first attempt at waves on the beach with epoxy.





John


----------



## OCtoolguy

Pete Hughes said:


> Morning all,
> Very boring but this my offering, a bench for a friend of mine,
> Pete


Very nice. I wish I had the space for that.


----------



## Pete Hughes

I’ll post it flatpack OCtoolguy, then I’ll fly over to help assemble, just make sure the beer is cold.
Pete


----------



## OCtoolguy

Pete Hughes said:


> I’ll post it flatpack OCtoolguy, then I’ll fly over to help assemble, just make sure the beer is cold.
> Pete


Pete, I'll buy the beer for sure but will you also bring along about 400 square feet? I'm in a 9 x 13 shop so that bench won't work unless you do.


----------



## Molynoox

I made a mini greenhouse for my wife for her birthday. I looked online but I didn't like any of them so ended up making one.
Used cedar offcuts left over from my garden room build. I had to buy the acrylic, which cost £110 amazingly. BandQ possibly not the cheapest place to buy that but I didn't have time to look around as only had 2 days to build it.
I used half lap joints glued together for all the frames. Was planning on bridle joints but the wood is only 20mm think and I thought that wouldn't work very well.
Quite pleased with it, although it's not perfect. I should really have housed the acrylic in rebates but pushed for time so just screwed it to the wood.
Martin


----------



## paulrbarnard

Molynoox said:


> I made a mini greenhouse for my wife for her birthday. I looked online but I didn't like any of them so ended up making one.
> Used cedar offcuts left over from my garden room build. I had to buy the acrylic, which cost £110 amazingly. BandQ possibly not the cheapest place to buy that but I didn't have time to look around as only had 2 days to build it.
> I used half lap joints glued together for all the frames. Was planning on bridle joints but the wood is only 20mm think and I thought that wouldn't work very well.
> Quite pleased with it, although it's not perfect. I should really have housed the acrylic in rebates but pushed for time so just screwed it to the wood.
> Martin


Looks, great. Shocked at the cost of acrylic though.


----------



## Molynoox

Thanks. Yes the cost surprised me. £42 for a 1.2m X 1.2m sheet. I bought 2.5 sheets.


----------



## MarkAW

Has the price of acrylic gone up because every shop and reception desk now has some? 

Beautiful greenhouse btw


----------



## Jameshow

MarkAW said:


> Has the price of acrylic gone up because every shop and reception desk now has some?
> 
> Beautiful greenhouse btw


Yeap! 

£50 for 4x3'


----------



## Molynoox

It's only 2mm thick too


----------



## Peri

I posted these up elsewhere on the forum, but I think they got lost in the general posts - putting them here because I'm so proud of them 

2 Chessboards - both Bolivian rosewood & maple. 

This one was made to order - 52mm squares. 











This one, I'm yet to find a buyer for- 56mm squares.


----------



## Garno

Peri said:


> I posted these up elsewhere on the forum, but I think they got lost in the general posts - putting them here because I'm so proud of them
> 
> 2 Chessboards - both Bolivian rosewood & maple.
> 
> This one was made to order - 52mm squares.
> 
> View attachment 133246
> 
> 
> View attachment 133247
> 
> 
> This one, I'm yet to find a buyer for- 56mm squares.
> View attachment 133248
> 
> 
> View attachment 133249
> 
> 
> View attachment 133250




You have every right to be proud of them they are beautiful


----------



## gregmcateer

Like the first board a lot. 
Love the second board! 
Do you butt the squares up when glue up, or is there a hidden tiny biscuit or T and G joint?


----------



## gasman

Jewellery box in ripple sycamore with inlaid daffodil for my (welsh) daughter-in-law. I used Oslo Polyx Oil Raw for the first time to see if it would be better on the pale sycamore and was impressed with the finish and colour. Time will tell to see if it stays that way! Cheers Mark


----------



## Jameshow

gasman said:


> Jewellery box in ripple sycamore with inlaid daffodil for my (welsh) daughter-in-law. I used Oslo Polyx Oil Raw for the first time to see if it would be better on the pale sycamore and was impressed with the finish and colour. Time will tell to see if it stays that way! Cheers Mark
> View attachment 133286
> 
> View attachment 133292
> View attachment 133293
> View attachment 133294


Are all the boards curved if so very impressive! 

Also show us the drawers open just to rub it in?!


----------



## gasman

Thank you - the front boards are laminated, the sides are curved solid pieces hollowed out. It made fitting the hinges a bit of a challenge as there was no reference face to work off. I can only find a photo of the drawers out before the baize lining and hinges were fitted


----------



## Peri

gregmcateer said:


> Like the first board a lot.
> Love the second board!
> Do you butt the squares up when glue up, or is there a hidden tiny biscuit or T and G joint?



There's a well established technique for making chess boards, a quick trip to youtube should show it - it involves gluing strips together.

I did a mini WIP of a similar board here


----------



## dzj

A French door.


----------



## Ollie78

@gasman That is really very nice. Sycamore is one of my favourites.

Ollie


----------



## Garno

Pen for the ladies

Wenge
Black Chrome with crystal top
Sealer
CA
Burnish Cream


----------



## Garno

Another ladies pen this time in oak.

Oak
Chrome with a Crystal top
Sanding sealer
CA
Burnish Cream


----------



## Garno

Final Ladies pen for the day.

Elm works so well here with the copper

Elm
Copper with Crystal Top
CA 
Sanding Sealer
Burnishing Cream


----------



## kinverkid

Garno said:


> Final Ladies pen for the day.


I can see an ink shortage coming on next. Very nice pens. The ladies will love them.


----------



## Farm Labourer

Three walnut picture frames with maple splines, finished with two coats of wiped on sanding-sealer and a couple of coats of beeswax. Not very challenging but fun (and fiddly).


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

This afternoon’s therapy on the lathe… Spalted Birch, 180mm tall, 70mm at it’s base and 130mm at it’s top. Most difficult thing i’ve turned so far!


----------



## nickds1

Made a Valentine's pressie for SWMBO. First attempt at stained glass... used some offcuts from a glass merchant, hence the mix. You can guess the initial of her first name...

Simple oak frame and zebrano splines - lead edge is rebated into the frame. Oak is from some floorboard offcuts leftover from when we built the house and the zebrano was scraps left over from another project. Finish is just a couple of coats of hard wax oil. Whole thing is about A4 and hung in the middle of a South-facing kitchen window by fishing line... it casts lovely colours...


----------



## Stigmorgan

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> This afternoon’s therapy on the lathe… Spalted Birch, 180mm tall, 70mm at it’s base and 130mm at it’s top. Most difficult thing i’ve turned so far!
> 
> View attachment 133331
> View attachment 133332
> View attachment 133333
> View attachment 133334
> View attachment 133335
> View attachment 133336


That is absolutely stunning  I've always found silver birch to be extremely dusty, especially on end grain.


----------



## Stigmorgan

So for a while I've been asking SWMBO to help me empty out the garage and go through everything to get rid of rubbish and junk that hasn't been looked at in years, I sold one of my motorbikes yesterday  creating a nice bit of space, today the weather was good so after taking the pooches out for a walk on the school field (they love chasing the Canada geese off the field ) we came back and I started taking stuff out of the garage and she started sorting through some of it, I rearranged a couple of units to create more floor space, she managed to reduce a couple of boxes and a few bags to 1 small box with was a great start, the pic below shows the space I might have for the lathe once I finish sorting everything but my back tweaked and we had to stop, she moved everything into the garage just to get it inside but hopefully I'll have a really good bit of space when it's finished.







Having the gas manifold and meter for the school on the back wall is an absolute PITA as it has to be easily accessible at all times in case of emergency, it also means I have to have the lathe orientated along the length of the garage to avoid potential fly offs hitting the gas.


----------



## Droogs

Bet the dogs were glad you sold the bike and could uncross their legs , 9 years is a long time to hold it in


----------



## OCtoolguy

Peri said:


> I posted these up elsewhere on the forum, but I think they got lost in the general posts - putting them here because I'm so proud of them
> 
> 2 Chessboards - both Bolivian rosewood & maple.
> 
> This one was made to order - 52mm squares.
> 
> View attachment 133246
> 
> 
> View attachment 133247
> 
> 
> This one, I'm yet to find a buyer for- 56mm squares.
> View attachment 133248
> 
> 
> View attachment 133249
> 
> 
> View attachment 133250


Absolutely beautiful work on all of them. You're joinery is amazing.


----------



## OCtoolguy

Stigmorgan said:


> So for a while I've been asking SWMBO to help me empty out the garage and go through everything to get rid of rubbish and junk that hasn't been looked at in years, I sold one of my motorbikes yesterday  creating a nice bit of space, today the weather was good so after taking the pooches out for a walk on the school field (they love chasing the Canada geese off the field ) we came back and I started taking stuff out of the garage and she started sorting through some of it, I rearranged a couple of units to create more floor space, she managed to reduce a couple of boxes and a few bags to 1 small box with was a great start, the pic below shows the space I might have for the lathe once I finish sorting everything but my back tweaked and we had to stop, she moved everything into the garage just to get it inside but hopefully I'll have a really good bit of space when it's finished.
> View attachment 133339
> View attachment 133340
> 
> Having the gas manifold and meter for the school on the back wall is an absolute PITA as it has to be easily accessible at all times in case of emergency, it also means I have to have the lathe orientated along the length of the garage to avoid potential fly offs hitting the gas.


Ok, gotta ask the question, what is the dummy doing staring at that pile of logs?


----------



## OCtoolguy

gasman said:


> Jewellery box in ripple sycamore with inlaid daffodil for my (welsh) daughter-in-law. I used Oslo Polyx Oil Raw for the first time to see if it would be better on the pale sycamore and was impressed with the finish and colour. Time will tell to see if it stays that way! Cheers Mark
> View attachment 133286
> 
> View attachment 133292
> View attachment 133293
> View attachment 133294


That is beautiful. The work I see posted here leaves me in awe. I'll not be posting anymore of my stuff until I can match yours. Gorgeous!


----------



## Stigmorgan

OCtoolguy said:


> Ok, gotta ask the question, what is the dummy doing staring at that pile of logs?


Thats Jason Todd, he ain't quite right in the head since he had a run in with the Joker

Here he is when he decides to wear clothes


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Corner desk for a home office in Birch Ply.


----------



## Garden Shed Projects

OCtoolguy said:


> That is beautiful. The work I see posted here leaves me in awe. I'll not be posting anymore of my stuff until I can match yours. Gorgeous!


That jewellery box is indeed beautiful. Well done Gasman.
But if we all waited until we were that good before posting there would be nothing on this Forum. Keep making stuff and posting it’s all valid.


----------



## Orraloon

blackteaonesugar said:


> Corner desk for a home office in Birch Ply.
> 
> View attachment 133402
> 
> View attachment 133403
> 
> View attachment 133404
> 
> View attachment 133405
> 
> View attachment 133406


First class job on the desk. Looks well made and well designed.
Regards
John


----------



## gregmcateer

Peri said:


> There's a well established technique for making chess boards, a quick trip to youtube should show it - it involves gluing strips together.
> 
> I did a mini WIP of a similar board here


Thanks Peri


----------



## Victorthesecond

Very rustic compared to the stuff I've seen here, but here is a mud kitchen for my grandson. Made from recycled wood, it cost me around £60 in total (including stain) versus much more English pounds if purchased ready made.

And I had fun doing it!


----------



## DBC

Bedroom chimney brest joinery. Beech with ply panels wallpapered with a William Morris print. This was actually my first ever go at wallpapering. Took me a while to know what I was doing with the wallpaper; think I’ll stick to joinery.

You can read the brief story of how I ruined a sawblade on this job here…

Dodged a bullet———almost






Also made some matching chunky looking bedside tables for the same room. Pictured here before I had put the little wallpaper squares under the safety glass.


----------



## Tris

Almost embarrassed to put this up here but this is a rigid heddle loom I made.

Having looked at the cost of these online, and finding someone in Oxford giving away the metal part I had one of those 'how hard can it be?' moments. One pallet and a trawl of the internet later this was the result. Now just need to make the shuttle sticks and weave something on it.


----------



## rob1693

Present for my brothers birthday. He really likes the sheffield cutlers/buffers stools you often see on salvage hunters.

Heres my version with a bit of tage frid thrown in. All made from old joists off a
roof space to room conversion

Yakisugi finish with linseed oil and bees wax


----------



## mikej460

rob1693 said:


> Present for my brothers birthday. He really likes the sheffield cutlers/buffers stools you often see on salvage hunters.
> 
> Heres my version with a bit of tage frid thrown in. All made from old joists off a
> roof space to room conversion
> 
> Yakisugi finish with linseed oil and bees wax
> 
> 
> View attachment 133585


Excellent, I would love to make one of these one day...


----------



## niall Y

A whistle in D, made with pear wood and brass. Looks the part, but the sound needs improving. Very much a Mark 1. Have enough wood for a further five whistles. Here's hoping that by the Mk 6. the sound will be better!


----------



## dzj

A farmhouse bed.


----------



## drobinson87

Pallet wood bench with planters on both sides. The front strip that goes right across needs sanding but the sander has been going all day so giving the neighbours a break.

I wonder if anyone has any tips for speeding up the process of placing screws. Currently I’m just drawing a centre line across all the planks and then measuring 20mm in from the edges to make all the screws look uniform. Gets a bit tedious. Tried searching for jigs and templates ideas on Google but they keep bringing up pocket hole jigs and other variations of that. Hoping someone will be able to direct me to a small metal template or similar that will make it easier and faster.

Thanks.


----------



## Jameshow

How about a length of mild steel 40mmx 6mm drilled at the required frequency. 

Shouldn't cost more than a tenner?


----------



## clogs

u'll have to make ur own.....
I use a cast iron sliding square to that job.....
set it to the edge distance and draw the horiz stagger''d lines then place all the latt's in line with a master 
then draw the verts crosses....
no real easy way...chalk lines snaped can be good but depends on the job...


----------



## Jameshow

On second thoughts use a cheap 24" roofers square must be Chinese soft steel!


----------



## robgul

drobinson87 said:


> Pallet wood bench with planters on both sides. The front strip that goes right across needs sanding but the sander has been going all day so giving the neighbours a break.
> 
> I wonder if anyone has any tips for speeding up the process of placing screws. Currently I’m just drawing a centre line across all the planks and then measuring 20mm in from the edges to make all the screws look uniform. Gets a bit tedious. Tried searching for jigs and templates ideas on Google but they keep bringing up pocket hole jigs and other variations of that. Hoping someone will be able to direct me to a small metal template or similar that will make it easier and faster.
> 
> Thanks.



I fitted a load of cladding - boards about 110 wide and 2 screws (Spax, stainless steel Torx) at c90 cm centres (i.e. 2 screws across the board width, then @ 90cm centres along the length as the pic) - all I did was make a jig from a piece of the cladding board about 10cm long, with two pieces of 5mm plywood pinned to the edges at right angles. The jig had the two holes in the right place, with a centre line marked - all I had to do was position the jig, drill through the holes into the cladding board, slide the jig along and repeat. The 5mm plywood doubled as a spacer between the cladding boards.

The concept should work for your job - the piece of board jig just needs to align to the end of the boards to be drilled to get the spacing




As an aside - I saw the bench in this pic when I was in New Zealand - made from decking boards - I have yet to get round to making one for our garden.


----------



## Molynoox

I posted pics of my greenhouse a few days ago, and I thought I would drop a quick update now that I have finished the door toggle and lid latch mech. Took me a little head scratching to do the lid mechanism, ended up using some bolts and nuts, embedded / super glued into bits of cedar to stop them turning. Made a little knob on the bandsaw and finished with files, rasps, sandpaper. The knob was really nice at one point but i damaged it by clamping in the vice. Can't be bothered making a new one, it looks ok.
Anyway, thought that might be interesting if anybody is in same boat.














Also, it blends in really well with the garden room now as it uses same wood and same oil. Glad I made one instead of buying.





Martin


----------



## MCTWoodwork

Stigmorgan said:


> Some of you may have seen my thread asking for opinions on a piece of oak I had on the lathe,
> View attachment 132947
> 
> Unfortunately the rot was too advanced, after cutting a tenon and turning it round a huge pice of the foot flew off so I had to remove the stem and remaining part of the foot and turn it into a simple bowl, cutting this was a nightmare, even with a freshly ground edge I was struggling to get clean cuts so ended up doing about 3 hours of sanding this morning, a few marks I couldn't get out but the honey gold colour makes up for that...
> View attachment 132948
> View attachment 132949
> View attachment 132950
> View attachment 132951
> View attachment 132952
> View attachment 132953
> View attachment 132954
> 
> Beautiful work! What finish did you use?
> 
> 
> Stigmorgan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you may have seen my thread asking for opinions on a piece of oak I had on the lathe,
> View attachment 132947
> 
> Unfortunately the rot was too advanced, after cutting a tenon and turning it round a huge pice of the foot flew off so I had to remove the stem and remaining part of the foot and turn it into a simple bowl, cutting this was a nightmare, even with a freshly ground edge I was struggling to get clean cuts so ended up doing about 3 hours of sanding this morning, a few marks I couldn't get out but the honey gold colour makes up for that...
> View attachment 132948
> View attachment 132949
> View attachment 132950
> View attachment 132951
> View attachment 132952
> View attachment 132953
> View attachment 132954
Click to expand...


----------



## houtslager

Finally got this finished, I am getting a severe dislike to any F&B colours as they don't seem to be "solid" and take a couple more coats to get the right look.


----------



## [email protected]

Hi All,
A small table made from leftover plywood with an oak drawer front.
Finished with water-based polyurethane (plywood) and oil (the drawer front).
As usual, nothing is perfect, but I am the only one to notice, so not something to spend any energy on!
Drawer does not run very smoothly - will need some lubricant.
Simon
Edit: top and bottom are equally wide - that they look different is an optical illusion


----------



## Molynoox

[email protected] said:


> Hi All,
> A small table made from leftover plywood with an oak drawer front.
> Finished with water-based polyurethane (plywood) and oil (the drawer front).
> As usual, nothing is perfect, but I am the only one to notice, so not something to spend any energy on!
> Drawer does not run very smoothly - will need some lubricant.
> Simon
> Edit: top and bottom are equally wide - that they look different is an optical illusion
> 
> View attachment 133901
> View attachment 133902
> View attachment 133903
> View attachment 133904


I like the table. Your workshop certainly looks like you know what you are doing


----------



## clogs

S.V. Netherlands
just use ordiary candle wax for the lube....just rub it on the surfaces.....does not attract dust....
I have a few jackets with Zippers that get the same treatment.....works a treat.....


----------



## Stigmorgan

I sanded to 320 then used Yandles Abrasive Paste followed by Yandles Hard Wax Polish, the bowl has warped a little since bringing it into the house so will need to takenit back to the lathe at some point to flatten the bottom again so it doesn't rock


----------



## RHob

Finally finished this backgammon board after breaking a screw.

London Plane with resin and mother of pearl inlay.


----------



## fezman

RHob said:


> Finally finished this backgammon board after breaking a screw.
> 
> London Plane with resin and mother of pearl inlay.



That is very nice. 

Did you do a WIP by any chance? I'm interested in how you did the playing surface. This is on my tuit list.


----------



## RHob

@fezman no WIP I'm afraid.

The playing surface was routed out and then filled with resin. I used a 1.5mm router bit and a triangular template to rout out the outline of the points. Then a very nervous removal of the waste.

I wouldn't recommend using London plane as if you look at it the wrong way it moves.


----------



## Dynamite

Pete Hughes said:


> Morning all,
> Very boring but this my offering, a bench for a friend of mine,
> Pete


Absolutely NOT boring Pete, I think it’s great. Really spacios. I like the centre positioned vice and it looks solid and probably last donkeys years.

Kind Regards… Rob


----------



## sllca

Doris said:


> The last thing I carved for my cousins wedding present.


Absolutely brilliant..... well done


----------



## sllca

Bought my 1st router when lock down started and fallen in love with making signs. Hand routed on an old TV unit top bought on marketplace. Took me bloody ages lol


----------



## Molynoox

sllca said:


> View attachment 133939
> 
> Bought my 1st router when lock down started and fallen in love with making signs. Hand routed on an old TV unit top bought on marketplace. Took me bloody ages lol


Is it just freehand with the router? One slip and straight to bin... Or is that what all the swirls are


----------



## Molynoox

sllca said:


> Absolutely brilliant..... well done


Bit of a late review


----------



## Bojam

A set of coasters in a holder for a mates 50th birthday pressie. Made from Partridgewood, which is a local species here in French Guiana. Sanded to 180 grit. Will be hand scraped before finish is applied. Thinking marine varnish (the stuff I bought is a poly resin base) but actually never used it before. Any suggestions? Obviously the coasters need to be waterproof and heat resistant.


----------



## Davegree

*Elm burr hinged box. It was a bit powdery in parts so used some Milliput and epoxy glue in parts.*


----------



## [email protected]

clogs said:


> S.V. Netherlands
> just use ordiary candle wax for the lube....just rub it on the surfaces.....does not attract dust....
> I have a few jackets with Zippers that get the same treatment.....works a treat.....


thanks for the tip! Just tried it. It has improved the sound is makes when I move the drawer. Movement was initially a bit bumpy, because applying the candle wax uniformly is difficult without taking the 'runners' off, but moving the drawer in and out a couple of times already improved that.
Simon


----------



## [email protected]

Molynoox said:


> I like the table. Your workshop certainly looks like you know what you are doing


thanks.
Improving the workshop has been competing with actually making things (which probably sounds familiar to many) but the balance is slowly tilting....
Simon


----------



## morrisminordriver

Made with some help from IKEA.
A mobile cutting station for my wife’s craft work, 3 IKEA Kallax units with 18mm plywood base and top, edged with pine and four locking casters. Just waiting for the cutting mat which will cover the top.


----------



## matkinitice

My first bed build, for my daughter. An upgrade so we can use her toddler bed as cot for her brother/sister due July. We are planning a super king size build at some point, so this was my "test bed".

Used some redwood that warped so badly we had bananas in the fruit bowel that were straighter and less twisted. Took two weeks to build, with a week of that milling and lamination. Got to put my new OF1010 to use which was great. Really digging the MFT system, the rail was smashing to use.

Mattress and slats were from Ikea - the slats are actually ply, with a slight bend so there is no way I could get the wood cheaper than buying this. For what it's worth, a bed similar to this is £60. I spent £88 on the wood total (tenner for delivery).

My only regret is the stain. Parts look great (the long rails) while the headboard and some areas really show the defects and some funny blotching/staining. I believe this is down to the sap or something in the wood? When sanding it was very sticky in parts.

It only has to last a couple of years, then I'll build her a captains bed or something better/more her choosing. A lot of this can be recycled, so as a test I'm pretty happy. Much more confident when it comes to our bed. I do wonder if I'm the only one that is really scared to test their furniture out once they've made it, even though I know it's far overbuilt than anything I have had previously. Anyway good news, it's taken all three of us so it should hold up.


----------



## Fitzroy

I made my bandsaw sharp. The blade was horribly dull and I wondered if I could sharpen it. A couple of strokes in the gullet and on the back of each tooth with a diamond file and it cut like a dream again!





Then I detensioned the blade and went for dinner. Came out to do a bit more stock breakdown for my workbench, all smug that I’d got the saw working. Proceeded to try to make a cut without tensioning the saw. A sudden Big Bang and an oh darn moment. Blade had come off the wheels and sausages 





Pride comes before a fall! Managed to bend and bash it flat enough to complete the stock breakdown but need to order a new one as it vibrates a bit!

Fitz


----------



## MikeJhn

Not as exciting as some of the wonderful work you guys do, but our kitchen garden planter is all but finished.



.


----------



## MikeJhn

Well I don't know if this counts as stuff I'v made, but I did have a lot to do with it LOL:


----------



## cisamcgu

Shallow bowl in padauk - the *dust *is something to behold !


----------



## Jonm

Black and Decker workmate 400

I have had one of these for over 40 years. Easy to erect and fold, light and portable, very stable given its weight. Much better than the modern B&D version which is rubbish.

Bought this one recently for £3 on FB Marketplace. My son will put it in a house he is renovating.

Before and after picture below. Glued up the bits of de laminated jaws, fitted the plastic inserts under the jaws correctly, replaced the bent long bolt jammed in with a proper nut and bolt, cut some wooden feet and straightened some of the braces. Works fine and am now thinking about a long term use as I still have the one I bought 40 years ago.

Before




After


----------



## Garno

Jonm said:


> Black and Decker workmate 400
> 
> I have had one of these for over 40 years. Easy to erect and fold, light and portable, very stable given its weight. Much better than the modern B&D version which is rubbish.
> 
> Bought this one recently for £3 on FB Marketplace. My son will put it in a house he is renovating.
> 
> Before and after picture below. Glued up the bits of de laminated jaws, fitted the plastic inserts under the jaws correctly, replaced the bent long bolt jammed in with a proper nut and bolt, cut some wooden feet and straightened some of the braces. Works fine and am now thinking about a long term use as I still have the one I bought 40 years ago.
> 
> Before
> View attachment 134396
> 
> After
> View attachment 134398





I remember the original B & D Workmate being launched, I am sure they featured on TV in an advert, Early 70's I think but not totally sure as memory wearing out a little these days.

Really nice to see you fixing your sons one and you are right it will probably last another 40 years at least. Great Job.


----------



## Jameshow

Nice I haven't got that model is it robust unlike the rubbish big shed copies??


----------



## Jonm

Garno said:


> I remember the original B & D Workmate being launched, I am sure they featured on TV in an advert, Early 70's I think but not totally sure as memory wearing out a little these days.
> 
> Really nice to see you fixing your sons one and you are right it will probably last another 40 years at least. Great Job.


My recollection is first seeing them advertised mid seventies and thought they were a bit of a gimmick, probably was a tv advert. Then I saw a carpenter using one and could see they were useful so decided to buy one. Chose the 400 model as it was cheaper, now prefer it over the larger ones which I find too big, awkward and heavy to move and store, but they are better when erected.


----------



## Jonm

Jameshow said:


> Nice I haven't got that model is it robust unlike the rubbish big shed copies??


It is easy to erect and dismantle, no fiddly clips or locking screws, just open up, and push cross brace down to lock. Lift cross brace and fold to close. Simple. Easily takes my weight. They are light so portable but are not a workbench substitute, for chopping out joints etc the bigger heavier ones with a step you can put weight on would be better.

Finding them nearby can take a long time. I had ebay searches and did searches on fb marketplace for months. I have recently bought three, one for my son, one for son in law and this latest one which I happened to spot and my son wanted. He previously had the modern B&D version which we both found to be fiddly and awkward to fold, unfold. Mine has had nothing done to it in 40 years, two of the ones I bought, this one and another (£3 and £5) needed a bit of work, one needed the braces removing and hammering straight and then it worked fine. I would pay £20+ for a good one not needing any work.


----------



## Jameshow

I have standard one ah the big one but not the little one or the tool box one, which I was thinking of getting for my dad.


----------



## NickDReed

I've spent the last week in 2 projects. Making planters for the garden and using up a lot of horrible scrap pallet and construction timber.

Pictures will follow.

And remaking my diy overhead dust collection.

Principle of the previous one was OK but I failed to take into account the effect of splitting the 1x 125mm duct in to 2x 125mm ducts which lead to both over and under blade extraction lacking suction ability.

So having invested in some 80mm ducting and flex ducting I now have what appears to be a much better solution.
















Don't hate on the duct taping!


----------



## Jameshow

NickDReed said:


> I've spent the last week in 2 projects. Making planters for the garden and using up a lot of horrible scrap pallet and construction timber.
> 
> Pictures will follow.
> 
> And remaking my diy overhead dust collection.
> 
> Principle of the previous one was OK but I failed to take into account the effect of splitting the 1x 125mm duct in to 2x 125mm ducts which lead to both over and under blade extraction lacking suction ability.
> 
> So having invested in some 80mm ducting and flex ducting I now have what appears to be a much better solution.View attachment 134628
> View attachment 134624
> View attachment 134625
> View attachment 134626
> View attachment 134627
> 
> 
> Don't hate on the duct taping!


Dust what dust!!! 

Cool crown guard is it independent from the table saw? Might have to make one!


----------



## NickDReed

Jameshow said:


> Dust what dust!!!
> 
> Cool crown guard is it independent from the table saw? Might have to make one!



Yes, It's hinged on the wall so I can move it up should I need it out of the way. 

Hopefully it'll make a difference to the dust levels.......until I turn the lathe on that is of course


----------



## MikeJhn

I did it slightly differently watching a slow motion vid it showed most of the dust going forward from the gullet of the blade :


----------



## Stigmorgan

Today I finished a Hawthorn piece I started a few weeks ago, ifinished it with Danish oil and did a quick small dish out of a piece from an old P.E bench that was condemned and fi ished it with linseed oil


----------



## NickDReed

MikeJhn said:


> I did it slightly differently watching a slow motion vid it showed most of the dust going forward from the gullet of the blade :View attachment 134649


That looks a little pro than mine. 

I positioned the hose as far forward on the blade as I could as I'd seen YouTube videos showing that the majority of the dust will effectively be thrown forward. 

Does your set up have an internal arc above the teeth of the blade?


----------



## MikeJhn

Yes it does, picture below show the internal arc during construction of the guard;

This was detail on the thread I put together on Modifications to the TS250 Axminster saw: Axminster TS250-2 modifications.


----------



## DBC

I’m in the workshop only intermittently this year as I am doing a big heritage building refurb. But the last week or so the lime plasterer was in my way so I got to be in the joinery making a few incidentals for the same customer. See below. Made a whole lot of mouldings to match his existing ones as well but they aren’t really worthy of a photograph.


----------



## Jameshow

Couple of oak planters for a local community centre.
Have 6 more to do!!

Apart from on lining the inside do you think they should be treated? If so what with??


----------



## MikeJhn

IMO all accords it they are going on hard standing or on earth and if they have a base, if they do then a set of sacrificial legs would make a lot of difference, Oak is hardy enough to last twenty years if not in contact with earth or moisture, but as you say they need lining, I used a pond liner on my effort. Just to add the base is lift out slats to allow replacement, holes drilled through the liner and tubes hot glued in to allow drainage.



MikeJhn said:


> View attachment 134036
> .



PS: you can't drill through the liner it just bunch's up around the bit, I used a leather punch to make a hole to drill through, and countersunk the hole.


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Little floating shelf with a drawer, in Oak. The client gave me a fag packet sketch of the shape he wanted and I did the rest.














A fruit cage for the gf too.


----------



## kramhadron

DBC said:


> I’m in the workshop only intermittently this year as I am doing a big heritage building refurb. But the last week or so the lime plasterer was in my way so I got to be in the joinery making a few incidentals for the same customer. See below. Made a whole lot of mouldings to match his existing ones as well but they aren’t really worthy of a photograph.View attachment 134716
> 
> View attachment 134715


They look great. What finishes have you used please?


----------



## Jameshow

DBC said:


> I’m in the workshop only intermittently this year as I am doing a big heritage building refurb. But the last week or so the lime plasterer was in my way so I got to be in the joinery making a few incidentals for the same customer. See below. Made a whole lot of mouldings to match his existing ones as well but they aren’t really worthy of a photograph.View attachment 134716
> 
> View attachment 134715


I wasn't even in the queue for talents!!!


----------



## Garden Shed Projects

blackteaonesugar said:


> Little floating shelf with a drawer, in Oak. The client gave me a fag packet sketch of the shape he wanted and I did the rest.
> 
> View attachment 134802
> 
> View attachment 134803
> 
> View attachment 134804
> 
> 
> A fruit cage for the gf too.
> 
> View attachment 134805
> 
> View attachment 134806


She’s gonna get out of that easy


----------



## Garno

Jameshow said:


> I wasn't even in the queue for talents!!!



Yes you were. You were a few places ahead of me


----------



## Garden Shed Projects

I finished this desk for my wife’s office. It’s made from recycled internal glazed screens, mainly in beech. I put the sapelle squares in as I didn’t want to use up all my long lengths. I have posted it on the recycled thread but thought I would stick it on here too.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Got bored this morning so went out to finish a bowl for our goddaughter and her partner, it's made from a block of Sapele, I finished it 2 days ago but during the sanding and finishing it took a warp and rocked when on a tabletop so I had to remount it and flatten the bottom off, hopefully it won't warp again. I'll post some pics once the oil finish has dried, after that I put a piece of spalted sycamore on and made a little pot.


----------



## DBC

kramhadron said:


> They look great. What finishes have you used please?


Osmo polyx oil. 

If anyone knows how to pronounce the middle word properly please let me know


----------



## Tuna808

Polx.


----------



## DBC

Tuna808 said:


> Polx.


thanks.


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

I made a loom bench for my wife from three planks of raw sawn ash. Polyacrylic finish. Height adjustable in 2cm lumps via some M8 bolts in steel tube. Design is a rip-off of a commercial one, but that was £375 and this cost me £350 including buying a new sander (for £290 including a load of Abranet) and having enough ash left for a little storage unit (next project). Also my first bit of furniture, and with my first mortice & tenon joints.






I also built the loom, but from a kit, so that doesn't count (but it was a brilliant build).


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

While waiting for the house sale to go through i was looking for a project to get stuck into, so i thought i’d make myself, what i call, a ‘man box’… which is a watch storage box where i’ll also keep cufflinks, rings etc in.

The box is all solid wood, made of British Walnut (with some spalting), the lid is crotch figure from the same log, with the compartment dividers made of African Blackwood, all lining made of black dyed pig suade, and treated myself to the ‘smart hinges’ and ‘smart lock’. Not obvious from the photos, but the sides of the box are all angled by a subtle 2.5 degrees, so unfortunately this was already cut when i received the hinges and lock, so i had to fit them all by hand rather than on a router table as recommended. This project had been great hand tool practice! 

I still have to make the ‘watch pillows’, and also the ring/cufflink storage insert though!


----------



## Jameshow

Sporky McGuffin said:


> I made a loom bench for my wife from three planks of raw sawn ash. Polyacrylic finish. Height adjustable in 2cm lumps via some M8 bolts in steel tube. Design is a rip-off of a commercial one, but that was £375 and this cost me £350 including buying a new sander (for £290 including a load of Abranet) and having enough ash left for a little storage unit (next project). Also my first bit of furniture, and with my first mortice & tenon joints.
> 
> View attachment 134940
> 
> 
> I also built the loom, but from a kit, so that doesn't count (but it was a brilliant build).


I like it!! 
It cost £350.... The sliding mitre saw was £290)


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

I believe it's called man-maths.


----------



## Garno

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> While waiting for the house sale to go through i was looking for a project to get stuck into, so i thought i’d make myself, what i call, a ‘man box’… which is a watch storage box where i’ll also keep cufflinks, rings etc in.
> 
> The box is all solid wood, made of British Walnut (with some spalting), the lid is crotch figure from the same log, with the compartment dividers made of African Blackwood, all lining made of black dyed pig suade, and treated myself to the ‘smart hinges’ and ‘smart lock’. Not obvious from the photos, but the sides of the box are all angled by a subtle 2.5 degrees, so unfortunately this was already cut when i received the hinges and lock, so i had to fit them all by hand rather than on a router table as recommended. This project had been great hand tool practice!
> 
> I still have to make the ‘watch pillows’, and also the ring/cufflink storage insert though!
> 
> View attachment 134966
> View attachment 134967
> View attachment 134968
> View attachment 134969
> View attachment 134970
> View attachment 134971
> View attachment 134972
> View attachment 134973
> View attachment 134974
> View attachment 134975




Wow that is stunning


----------



## nickds1

Garden Shed Projects said:


> I finished this desk for my wife’s office. It’s made from recycled internal glazed screens, mainly in beech. I put the sapelle squares in as I didn’t want to use up all my long lengths. I have posted it on the recycled thread but thought I would stick it on here too.


Desk is lovely but... pretty please, get yourself some curly cable ties or similar


----------



## Stigmorgan

As promised here's a few shots of the Sapele bowl I've made for our goddaughter and her partner, today I also put on a piece of silver birch that was cut last August so is still pretty green. Both were finished with Danish Oil.


----------



## Valhalla

blackteaonesugar said:


> A fruit cage for the gf too.


She's going to be cold in there at night..............


----------



## Padster

My first attempt at a bowl with a lid....









Regards

Padster


----------



## Pete Hughes

Dynamite said:


> Absolutely NOT boring Pete, I think it’s great. Really spacios. I like the centre positioned vice and it looks solid and probably last donkeys years.
> 
> Kind Regards… Rob


Hello Rob, apologies for the late response to your like, time just goes. You may notice that the left side of apron is shaped out higher than right, the reason for this is to allow more room to access the lower shelf.
Take care,
Pete


----------



## Garno

Padster said:


> My first attempt at a bowl with a lid....
> 
> View attachment 135060
> View attachment 135061
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster




That is beautiful mate


----------



## isaac3d

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> While waiting for the house sale to go through i was looking for a project to get stuck into, so i thought i’d make myself, what i call, a ‘man box’… which is a watch storage box where i’ll also keep cufflinks, rings etc in.
> 
> The box is all solid wood, made of British Walnut (with some spalting), the lid is crotch figure from the same log, with the compartment dividers made of African Blackwood, all lining made of black dyed pig suade, and treated myself to the ‘smart hinges’ and ‘smart lock’. Not obvious from the photos, but the sides of the box are all angled by a subtle 2.5 degrees, so unfortunately this was already cut when i received the hinges and lock, so i had to fit them all by hand rather than on a router table as recommended. This project had been great hand tool practice!
> 
> I still have to make the ‘watch pillows’, and also the ring/cufflink storage insert though!
> 
> View attachment 134966
> View attachment 134967
> View attachment 134968
> View attachment 134969
> View attachment 134970
> View attachment 134971
> View attachment 134972
> View attachment 134973
> View attachment 134974
> View attachment 134975



Very nice indeed. Well made and beautiful wood. But here's the thing; you used African blackwood for the dividers and then covered them (at least partially) with leather/suede (very nicely done, btw). I have some salvaged leather which I was intending to use in the same way that you have but I can't bring myself to cover beautiful wood with leather/suede. Is it just me being obsessive? Do others feel the same way? But then how do you protect delicate jewellery items, if not with soft lining? To line or not to line, that is the question.... One of life's deep imponderables?


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

isaac3d said:


> Very nice indeed. Well made and beautiful wood. But here's the thing; you used African blackwood for the dividers and then covered them (at least partially) with leather/suede (very nicely done, btw). I have some salvaged leather which I was intending to use in the same way that you have but I can't bring myself to cover beautiful wood with leather/suede. Is it just me being obsessive? Do others feel the same way? But then how do you protect delicate jewellery items, if not with soft lining? To line or not to line, that is the question.... One of life's deep imponderables?


Thanks! I did have similar thoughts about the african blackwood, but i actually had a couple of lenghts spare from another project which were pretty much the perfect thickness and width already, and i didnt want to go for a lighter contrasting wood against the black suede, so the blackwood was perfect for the job as it also matched the colour, as well as being strong and dimensionally stable. So the blackwood dividers are not fixed in place, just a snug fit, so there’s always the option in future of removing the dividers to use the box for something else. As you’ve already said, i wanted something soft to be in contact with any watches etc, hence thought it best to line it properly. Painstaking work tho!! But worth it in my opinion


----------



## Stigmorgan

Made another podlet/flower type thing again, took 3 attempts today, the stems kept breaking.











This one is a Bday present for a colleague.


----------



## Pete Hughes

That is something special Pad’ very professional


----------



## niall Y

Not finished, but part turned wet wood, bowls - freshly turned and full of promise. Have now placed them in a couple of paper sacks to season until around this time next year. The larger ones are Leylandii, the smaller ones Yew. The Leylandii came down in the recent winter storms, the Yew was from an Estate garden


----------



## Stigmorgan

Just for practice/fun I made another podlet/wood flower thingy, this one is from an Ash tree that had to be taken down after being damaged by the storm.


----------



## ScottyT

a little oak gate


----------



## NickDReed

niall Y said:


> Not finished, but part turned wet wood, bowls - freshly turned and full of promise. Have now placed them in a couple of paper sacks to season until around this time next year. The larger ones are Leylandii, the smaller ones Yew. The Leylandii came down in the recent winter storms, the Yew was from an Estate garden


How was the leylandii to turn, I have some in my store that came down earlier this year. Never turned it before, looks very sappy!


----------



## MCTWoodwork

ScottyT said:


> View attachment 135224
> View attachment 135225
> View attachment 135226
> View attachment 135227
> View attachment 135228
> 
> a little oak gate



Beautiful work mate! What finish are you putting on there?


----------



## ScottyT

MCTWoodwork said:


> Beautiful work mate! What finish are you putting on there?


Thanks for that. No finish on here it’s fit and forget as you see it.


----------



## niall Y

NickDReed said:


> How was the leylandii to turn, I have some in my store that came down earlier this year. Never turned it before, looks very sappy!


Hi there, The Leylandii was fun to turn - big ribbon shavings and very wet. At times it felt like turning in a rain -shower. Will only be able to fully appreciate the look, when it's finished. My son rates the wood quite highly. He and his boss planked a large Leylandii, several years ago, and used the timber on several jobs.


----------



## Cooper

niall Y said:


> The Leylandii came down in the recent winter storms, the Yew was from an Estate garden


I Turned some lovely bowls from fresh Leylandii last year and the smell was wonderful. It reminded me of rose water or Turkish delight. 
I did similar to you and roughed them out but I was in too much of a hurry to let them dry naturally so I popped them into the microwave for a few minuets at a time which did a good job and was able to finish them off.
They still smelt lovey when I gave them away.


----------



## MichaelChou

A small mitred box made with sycamore, iroko splines and a fabric insert. This feels like a bit of a step forwards for me. When things turn out well this is the most rewarding hobby! Better than I’d hoped but still plenty of mistakes to learn from.


----------



## Stigmorgan

MichaelChou said:


> A small mitred box made with sycamore, iroko splines and a fabric insert. This feels like a bit of a step forwards for me. When things turn out well this is the most rewarding hobby! Better than I’d hoped but still plenty of mistakes to learn from.View attachment 135299
> View attachment 135300
> View attachment 135301


Thats beautiful


----------



## Garno

Ladies Pen
Aspen
Chrome


----------



## Garno

Ladies Clipless Stylus Pen
Black Chrome
Stylus
Clipless
Wych Elm


----------



## Garno

Ladies Pen.
Oak
Gold


----------



## Garno

Darkness
Wenge
Black Chrome


----------



## Stigmorgan

Not really new but this morning I noticed how the bark on my latest podlet has a formed a crinkle cut effect as its dried over the last few days, it looks really cool, I'll pots a before and now pic below


----------



## Padster

A hybrid pen, my daughter requested....The midnight blue actually sparkles and glitter in real life!












Regards

Padster


----------



## CoolNik

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> While waiting for the house sale to go through i was looking for a project to get stuck into, so i thought i’d make myself, what i call, a ‘man box’… which is a watch storage box where i’ll also keep cufflinks, rings etc in.
> 
> The box is all solid wood, made of British Walnut (with some spalting), the lid is crotch figure from the same log, with the compartment dividers made of African Blackwood, all lining made of black dyed pig suade, and treated myself to the ‘smart hinges’ and ‘smart lock’. Not obvious from the photos, but the sides of the box are all angled by a subtle 2.5 degrees, so unfortunately this was already cut when i received the hinges and lock, so i had to fit them all by hand rather than on a router table as recommended. This project had been great hand tool practice!
> 
> I still have to make the ‘watch pillows’, and also the ring/cufflink storage insert though!
> 
> View attachment 134966
> View attachment 134967
> View attachment 134968
> View attachment 134969
> View attachment 134970
> View attachment 134971
> View attachment 134972
> View attachment 134973
> View attachment 134974
> View attachment 134975


Fantastic!! Where do you purchase your pig suede from, if you don’t mind telling? Cheers Robyn


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

CoolNik said:


> Fantastic!! Where do you purchase your pig suede from, if you don’t mind telling? Cheers Robyn


Thanks.
I bought the whole pigskin from ebay for £40 inc delivery…








Pig Suede Skin Garment Leather EU Hide .6-.8mm Craft 10-15ft Top Quality COLOURS


Pig Suede Skin Garment Leather EU Hide .6-.8mm Craft 10-15ft Top Quality COLOURS in Crafts, Leathercrafts, Leathercraft Accessories, Other Leathercraft Accessories | eBay



www.ebay.co.uk





However i got a courteousy call from them to provide advice and make sure it’s the correct product for my needs (very helpful). They also said it would be cheaper if i bought direct next time and they had a much larger range direct than what they list on ebay, so will give them a call next time…




__





S.C.Hall and Son | Leather Merchants, London UK






www.schallandson.com


----------



## Stigmorgan

Made another podlet today, chose a piece of sherry that was cut back in August, unfortunately it started to split as I was turning it but it held together and I managed to finish it, heavily soaked it in Danish oil, hopefully it won't crack any more, also broke my live centre while roughing the branch down


----------



## thetyreman

made another microphone box, lined using custards methods of lining boxes in the sticky thread, it'll be sent out to the USA soon.


----------



## NickVanBeest

Needed a little stand for a glass dragon, and as I had a beech plank with a large knot, I decided to utilize it... 



Added a base and sides, so the recipient can put a tealight behind it



And this is the effect (if the video will play)




Your browser is not able to display this video.


----------



## Sacricket

Hi, this is my attempt at ring turning and jewelry making. I know it's not wood work, but make in my garden workshop.


----------



## Adam Hodges

Small little drawers I made as a gift, oak body and Bolivian rosewood faces with half blind dovetails.


----------



## Jameshow

Forgive me brethren for I have done wrong.... 

Work asked me to assemble 3 flat pack bookshelves... No pics cause I already feel so ashamed .....


----------



## Phil Pascoe

You assemble flat packs? You're a better man than me, Gunga Din.


----------



## MikeJhn

A worse crime is if you read and understood the instruction.

And another crime is you missed the "be" on your post, "cause" is a totally different meaning to because.


----------



## alex robinson

A square bowl from silver birch. 18.5cm to a side


----------



## rob1693

sign post bird feeding station all wood and metal is recycled feeders are bought

pine bed legs for base offcuts of oak fooring for sign post m&t construction rings of yew oak dowels for landing pads recycled copper pipe for copper bits


----------



## kinverkid

This is what I have done a couple of times with end-of boards that have cracks and shakes in them. I cut out the offending section and glue other off-cuts between. This hides the fact the grain won't line up but also makes for a larger bowl. This is a bowl from a mahogany end piece crossed with two strips of teak (brown), three strips of what I thought was Sycamore but it has orange coloured flecks which I've never seen before. I know it is not Maple. It's 320mm wide and 70mm high.


----------



## MikeJhn

Really nice, shame to put anything in it and hide up the work.


----------



## Sandyn

I needed an adapter for my cyclone dust extractor so I could use a 1000M3/H extractor. 100mm to 45mm. Even at low quality print, it took 4 hours. High quality would have been 12 hours. I use an old Aquavac at the moment. It works very well, but I thought the large extractor would work better. 
It was garbage, just too much loss through the cyclone. I'll just make another adaptor for the bottom and use it as a funnel.


----------



## dzj

I made some windows.


----------



## Fitzroy

dzj said:


> I made some windows.
> 
> View attachment 135740


Wow, amazing!


----------



## Fitzroy

I’ve made ideas in my head. Scored some elm on gumtree. Oh what will it become. Trying to persuade the wife it’s got dining table written all over it. 









Fitz.


----------



## MikeJhn

Seen some very effective planks like that turned into a dinning room table with coloured epoxy or similar about 75mm wide joining them together, rough edges/bark left on.


----------



## Blister

Sacricket said:


> Hi, this is my attempt at ring turning and jewelry making. I know it's not wood work, but make in my garden workshop.


That is very nice


----------



## Stigmorgan

Fitzroy said:


> I’ve made ideas in my head. Scored some elm on gumtree. Oh what will it become. Trying to persuade the wife it’s got dining table written all over it.
> View attachment 135741
> 
> View attachment 135742
> 
> 
> Fitz.


I see a lovely river table


----------



## MikeJhn

Ah is that what they are called, thanks for that Stig.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Had a few hours free this morning so went out to the maker space and mounted another piece of green cherry on a faceplate (still waiting for my replacement live centre) slowly and cautiously rounded the branch off then once it was balanced I put the belt onto the middle wheels approx 1200rpm and started taking gentle passes at the end grain then on the back until I had the flower head done and then set to the task of removing material, the stem is about 4mm thick, I'm not brave enough to go any thinner, once I got over half way I had to hold the stem at the end to keep it from wobbling and snapping while I one handed the rest, not the easiest of tasks but I had removed the majority of material down to about 3/4 inch so only had 1/2inch to remove, there are tool marks on the flower portion and I only lightly sanded it and the base with 80 and 180grit, the stem I sanded to 320, the "issue" I have with turning green cherry is that I have purple hands at the end of it.

















Finished with teak oil, will be going out and putting several coats on to help keep it from splitting like the last one did


----------



## Garno

Stigmorgan said:


> Had a few hours free this morning so went out to the maker space and mounted another piece of green cherry on a faceplate (still waiting for my replacement live centre) slowly and cautiously rounded the branch off then once it was balanced I put the belt onto the middle wheels approx 1200rpm and started taking gentle passes at the end grain then on the back until I had the flower head done and then set to the task of removing material, the stem is about 4mm thick, I'm not brave enough to go any thinner, once I got over half way I had to hold the stem at the end to keep it from wobbling and snapping while I one handed the rest, not the easiest of tasks but I had removed the majority of material down to about 3/4 inch so only had 1/2inch to remove, there are tool marks on the flower portion and I only lightly sanded it and the base with 80 and 180grit, the stem I sanded to 320, the "issue" I have with turning green cherry is that I have purple hands at the end of it.
> View attachment 135754
> View attachment 135755
> View attachment 135756
> View attachment 135757
> View attachment 135758
> 
> Finished with teak oil, will be going out and putting several coats on to help keep it from splitting like the last one did




You have nailed this mate it looks great


----------



## Stigmorgan

Garno said:


> You have nailed this mate it looks great


Thanks Garno, lots of mistakes being made resulting in lots of swearing but I'm really enjoying making them


----------



## L M Joinery

Not something I made as such but I recently did a shed load of rake stud in an old cottage for a customer.


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> Thanks Garno, lots of mistakes being made resulting in lots of swearing but I'm really enjoying making them


What do you do with all the shavings!!


----------



## Padster

Couple of hybrid pens today.....a combination of Olivewood and acrylic, I also up cycled a filing cabinet but that's just repurposing and covering in vinyl wrap ;-)















Regards

Padster


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> What do you do with all the shavings!!


Some of them go into the school allotment and get mixed with the compost, or used as mulch on top of the soil around the plants


----------



## MikeJhn

That subtle offset to the bottom of the stem really does make it look as though the top bowel is draining into the bottom plate, very clever.


----------



## Stigmorgan

MikeJhn said:


> That subtle offset to the bottom of the stem really does make it look as though the top bowel is draining into the bottom plate, very clever.


I wish I could take artistic credit but its an accidental bonus  the cross section is shaped a little like a comma so I centred my face plate in the circular section and left the "swipe" outside of centre so that the top is slightly offset


----------



## OCtoolguy

I no longer have a shop large enough to do big stuff so I took up the hobby of scroll sawing. I made a votive candle holder for my wife and she liked it so much she asked be to make four more for gifts to friends and family. I'll post a picture of a finished one and a pic of all the pieces it takes to make four of them. I've got about 40 hours of cutting so far and just have to sand, assemble and finish them. I hope this qualifies for this forum.


----------



## Cooper

OCtoolguy said:


> I hope this qualifies for this forum.


I should think it does!!
How do you manage to get all the cuts so accurate. I'm impressed by the rings, let alone decorative pieces. 
Did you do the piercing first and then the front and back cuts for the bulge or the other way around? 
Do you cut more than one at a time and then slice them apart to achieve the bulge?
There are often things on here that I wonder how on earth they have the patients to make them. This has to take the prize. Well done.
Martin


----------



## MikeJhn

Stigmorgan said:


> I wish I could take artistic credit but its an accidental bonus  the cross section is shaped a little like a comma so I centred my face plate in the circular section and left the "swipe" outside of centre so that the top is slightly offset


Far too Honest.


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

Partway through my new hopper build for Nutley Windmill. Thanks to @Sgian Dubh for his invaluable help with the compound angles and those others who added their advice in my Compound Mitre Angles thread. The corners are glued (Semforite) and a fillet piece glued in as well for strength.
A bit of metalwork included on it as there are black painted steel braces around the corners toward the tops and bottoms.
Now have to build the wobbling chute that goes underneath before mounting it on the mill.


----------



## Garno

Yellow Cedar Burr


----------



## Garno

Some will like whilst others will hate it.


----------



## OCtoolguy

Cooper said:


> I should think it does!!
> How do you manage to get all the cuts so accurate. I'm impressed by the rings, let alone decorative pieces.
> Did you do the piercing first and then the front and back cuts for the bulge or the other way around?
> Do you cut more than one at a time and then slice them apart to achieve the bulge?
> There are often things on here that I wonder how on earth they have the patients to make them. This has to take the prize. Well done.
> Martin


Thank you for your kind reply. To answer your questions, each piece is cut separately. The curved pieces are done by what is called compound cutting. A pattern in secured on two sides of a block of wood and cut from two directions and the piece comes out of the middel once done. Each one took about an hour. I've tried to speed up the process but it can't be done any faster than what I have done here. I cut 2 pieces and then stop because my eyes just about fall out of me head. It's a very time consuming process but that's what it is all about. A hobby. No race to finish. When these are completely finished I'll have about 20 hours in each one. I've wondered what a fair price would be to ask for them but haven't been able to come up with an answer.


----------



## SamG340

Stigmorgan said:


> went out to the maker space



Do you mean your shed lol?


----------



## SamG340

Stigmorgan said:


> As promised here's a few shots of the Sapele bowl I've made for our goddaughter and her partner, today I also put on a piece of silver birch that was cut last August so is still pretty green. Both were finished with Danish Oil.
> View attachment 135037
> View attachment 135038
> View attachment 135039
> View attachment 135040
> View attachment 135041
> View attachment 135042
> View attachment 135043


I really like the bowls


----------



## OCtoolguy

SamG340 said:


> I really like the bowls


----------



## OCtoolguy

Stigmorgan said:


> As promised here's a few shots of the Sapele bowl I've made for our goddaughter and her partner, today I also put on a piece of silver birch that was cut last August so is still pretty green. Both were finished with Danish Oil.
> View attachment 135037
> View attachment 135038
> View attachment 135039
> View attachment 135040
> View attachment 135041
> View attachment 135042
> View attachment 135043


Very nice. I tried to find sapele near where I live but never did. I had to substitute mahogany for it. I wish now that I had searched further. That is really nice wood.


----------



## Stigmorgan

SamG340 said:


> Do you mean your shed lol?


Actually it's the back half of my garage


----------



## Stigmorgan

OCtoolguy said:


> Very nice. I tried to find sapele near where I live but never did. I had to substitute mahogany for it. I wish now that I had searched further. That is really nice wood.


Thanks, the blank was kindly given to me by the very talented @Mick p when I spent a day with him at his workshop.


----------



## Simon89

Stigmorgan said:


> Had a few hours free this morning so went out to the maker space and mounted another piece of green cherry on a faceplate (still waiting for my replacement live centre) slowly and cautiously rounded the branch off then once it was balanced I put the belt onto the middle wheels approx 1200rpm and started taking gentle passes at the end grain then on the back until I had the flower head done and then set to the task of removing material, the stem is about 4mm thick, I'm not brave enough to go any thinner, once I got over half way I had to hold the stem at the end to keep it from wobbling and snapping while I one handed the rest, not the easiest of tasks but I had removed the majority of material down to about 3/4 inch so only had 1/2inch to remove, there are tool marks on the flower portion and I only lightly sanded it and the base with 80 and 180grit, the stem I sanded to 320, the "issue" I have with turning green cherry is that I have purple hands at the end of it.
> View attachment 135754
> View attachment 135755
> View attachment 135756
> View attachment 135757
> View attachment 135758
> 
> Finished with teak oil, will be going out and putting several coats on to help keep it from splitting like the last one did


How straight does the stem stay when the wood has fully dried out?

Lovely piece of work


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> Actually it's the back half of my garage
> View attachment 135880
> View attachment 135881


Amazing what stig does in that small space!!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Simon89 said:


> How straight does the stem stay when the wood has fully dried out?
> 
> Lovely piece of work


Ive not got any fully dry ones yet but so far they have stayed pretty straight, you can lay them on their side and put a little weight on it to help it bend, if I got them thinner they may bend quicker, same as the tops I guess, I manage to get them to about 4 or 5mm, not managed any thinner than that yet.


----------



## niall Y

Just finished another D whistle - African Blackwood and brass. This sounds a lot better than the Mark 1 - less breathy and much brighter


----------



## Stigmorgan

A couple ore podlets today, these two from one silver birch branch, not sure where the spot of red colour has come from but I really like it.
















I did the flat top one as a bit of an experiment to make it easier to see how thin it was as it turned and to see how it warps, bothe finished with linseed oil


----------



## Stigmorgan

Piece of cherry today, large goblet/small pedestal bowl finished with walnut oil, absolutely love the grain on this wood, only have 4 pieces left


----------



## niall Y

That's a very classy Mazer, - or is it the 'Challis from the Palace'


----------



## Blackswanwood

Mahogany and Bubinga jewellery box


----------



## MikeJhn

niall Y said:


> That's a very classy Mazer, - or is it the 'Challis from the Palace'


I think its' the "Vessel with the Pestle".


----------



## Cooper

MikeJhn said:


> Vessel with the Pestle


But where is the brew that is true?


----------



## MikeJhn

The pellet with the poison's in the flagon with the dragon; the _vessel with the pestle_ has the brew that is true.

We obviously are a group of a certain age.


----------



## sams93

Oak and Walnut Chess Board with brass inlays


----------



## isaac3d

Blackswanwood said:


> Mahogany and Bubinga jewellery box
> 
> View attachment 136004


Beautiful wood and excellent workmanship. I like the touch of using a two tone key for the mitred corners; I must remember that.



Blackswanwood said:


> View attachment 136005
> View attachment 136006


----------



## isaac3d

Here is my first attempt at an end-grain cutting board. I made this for a friend in the Netherlands. He loves cooking and he and his family invited me for meals many times when I lived there.
The squares are sapele and cherry, the central cross is beech, the outer edge is made from a piece of machined iroko (an offcut from a kitchen work surface) and the corner accents are wenge. The wenge was an after thought added after the main construction, but I thought it would add a pleasant little extra detail.
I don't have a drum sander so the orbital sander did hours of overtime! The final surface is silky smooth and is finished by soaking in food grade mineral oil.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Another podlet from Ash, I went a bit too thin and almost lost the flower, luckily it held together so decided to keep going, it's a shame there's a section missing but I actually kinda like it, finished with a heavy coat of Danish oil, can't wait to see how this one distorts as it dries, will the flower hold together or will it rip apart 
Total height is 430mm and the top is 160mm at the widest point


----------



## NickDReed

Stigmorgan said:


> Another podlet from Ash, I went a bit too thin and almost lost the flower, luckily it held together so decided to keep going, it's a shame there's a section missing but I actually kinda like it, finished with a heavy coat of Danish oil, can't wait to see how this one distorts as it dries, will the flower hold together or will it rip apart
> Total height is 430mm and the top is 160mm at the widest point
> View attachment 136104
> View attachment 136105
> View attachment 136106
> View attachment 136107
> View attachment 136108
> View attachment 136109


Are we going to discuss the mannequin?.........


----------



## NickDReed

Bought home a lump of what I'm informed is Ash from a holiday to the lake district in April, had fallen in the storms earlier this year. 








Not sure how keen I am on the finished result, had a bit of a fight with the lathe half way through, but it will hold memories and is all good for learning


----------



## isaac3d

Not a Turner myself, so I can't comment on the item, but the material is ash. I have been slicing up some ash logs over the last couple of days and the bark and grain pattern are the same. Even the pink discolouration on the original log which I think is caused when the wood gets a bit too warm due to friction when cutting. It makes nice pink sawdust


----------



## MikeJhn

NickDReed said:


> Are we going to discuss the mannequin?.........


What mannequin, that's Stig's normal look.


----------



## Stigmorgan

NickDReed said:


> Are we going to discuss the mannequin?.........


Thats Jason Todd, he has been introduced previously


----------



## Garno

New pen for Mrs G.

Made in peacock pattern


----------



## Doris

Two waders carved from the customers oak shelf. Ones a Curlew, the other a Snipe


----------



## Stigmorgan

Doris said:


> View attachment 136370
> 
> 
> Two waders carved from the customers oak shelf. Ones a Curlew, the other a Snipe


I love these


----------



## Doris

Thank you


----------



## Blister

Doris said:


> View attachment 136370
> 
> 
> Two waders carved from the customers oak shelf. Ones a Curlew, the other a Snipe


Wow , they are lovely


----------



## Tris

The only kind of snipe you want on a woodworking thread


----------



## Stigmorgan

Little live edge twig pot made from cherry, you'll all call me mad but I sanded/polished it to 3000g  then finished it with a coat of teak oil


----------



## Phil63

blackteaonesugar said:


> Toy box in Oak, paint 'n' ply
> 
> View attachment 123832
> 
> View attachment 123833
> 
> View attachment 123834


I love this! But how do you go about the engraving on the front?? Was it done with a router?


----------



## Lefley

Garno said:


> New pen for Mrs G.
> 
> Made in peacock pattern
> 
> View attachment 136255
> View attachment 136256
> View attachment 136257
> View attachment 136258


Wow, it’s beautiful.


----------



## Lefley

Blackswanwood said:


> Mahogany and Bubinga jewellery box
> 
> View attachment 136004
> View attachment 136005
> View attachment 136006


I love this!


----------



## Lefley

Garno said:


> Yellow Cedar Burr
> 
> View attachment 135829
> View attachment 135830


Another killer pen!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Another podlet, this time silver birch, yet again I must have pushed too hard hollowing and caused it to be slightly off centre as I cut through while shaping the outside, I was surprised that it held together so I kept going and managed to finish it, the kids at school have been learning about disabilities and physical imperfections and how they shouldn't be seen as a negative so in light of that I'm going to start a collection of my podlets that go in this direction and call it the "perfectly imperfect" collection, what are your thoughts on this?


----------



## Fred48

'perfectly imperfect' Great idea. Unique.
Fred


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Phil63 said:


> I love this! But how do you go about the engraving on the front?? Was it done with a router?


Cnc router aye.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Aaaaand another podlet from cherry finished with linseed oil, not sure about the scale of this one, think it should have been taller.


----------



## Jameshow

Planters for local park veg on the edge!


----------



## Tony Works Wood

Chrispy said:


> I've just made a batch of pediments for dressing up some doorways and openings next week I'll make some more!
> The long one is 3.4m over all.
> View attachment 28184
> 
> View attachment 28183
> 
> View attachment 28185


I like those, very nice work. What make is the overhead router in the picture? Cheers. Tony


----------



## OCtoolguy

I just finished these. Still need to shoot some shellac on them. My wife liked the first one I made her so much she keeps me busy making them for gifts. I'm burning out on this pattern fairly fast. I hope you like them. About 15 hours in each one. A John Nelson pattern from the book Boxes Bowls and Baskets.


----------



## David with splinters

Welcome everyone. New to the forum and thought I’d introduce myself with my latest project. Although photographed outdoors this now lives inside as my wife thinks it’s too contemporary for our garden. Looking forward to seeing what you are all up to.


----------



## Phill05

Welcome David, Well I think the seat is in tune with your paving area in the garden looks real good.


----------



## David with splinters

My thoughts exactly but she’s the boss. Thanks for the comment.


----------



## yetloh

Very nice design. I too think it fits well outside, but those slots in the legs will quickly become insect homes. Nothing wrong with that but it will spoil the clean look. Is the top solid or are they gaps in that too? Has it any finish on it? Either way, I think its cool clean look would survive better under cover.

Jim


----------



## David with splinters

Thanks Jim.

Yes, top is also slotted holes 8mm wide and 75mm deep in beech. The solid wedge is walnut.

Finished is Osmo polyx matt


----------



## Fitzroy

David with splinters said:


> Welcome everyone. New to the forum and thought I’d introduce myself with my latest project. Although photographed outdoors this now lives inside as my wife thinks it’s too contemporary for our garden. Looking forward to seeing what you are all up to.
> 
> View attachment 136639
> View attachment 136640



That’s fab! Would love to hear/see about the build of it. 

Fitz.


----------



## David with splinters

Thanks Fitz. 

Made the top in two halves, bending and clamping with plenty of glue against an mdf former. The glued together and planed flat before gluing to the legs with lots of clamps. Then cut the walnut wedge to fit, radiused edges, and mitred the corner. A bit more to it than that but thats the gist of it. Hours of sanding and being careful with squeeze out of glue.


----------



## MikeJhn

MikeJhn said:


> Not as exciting as some of the wonderful work you guys do, but our kitchen garden planter is all but finished.
> View attachment 134036
> .


And a few weeks on.


----------



## NickDReed

Not the most recent, but just got a picture of it. 

Made for my mum and dad for Christmas. Was an absolute pig to transport and final assembly was done at theirs.


----------



## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> Little live edge twig pot made from cherry, you'll all call me mad but I sanded/polished it to 3000g  then finished it with a coat of teak oil
> View attachment 136446
> View attachment 136447
> View attachment 136448
> View attachment 136449
> View attachment 136450
> View attachment 136451
> View attachment 136452


Teak oil absorbs much better when only sanded to 240 or less. Actually osmo oil and most oils recommend only sanding to 180-240. Have you ever tried wet sanding with teak oil? Start at 180 then work your way up to 3,000. I think you will notice a much deeper, depth of finish. And it will have soaked a lot further into the wood. Nice turning.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> Teak oil absorbs much better when only sanded to 240 or less. Actually osmo oil and most oils recommend only sanding to 180-240. Have you ever tried wet sanding with teak oil? Start at 180 then work your way up to 3,000. I think you will notice a much deeper, depth of finish. And it will have soaked a lot further into the wood. Nice turning.


I haven't tried yet but have considered it, only difficulty I have is my lathes slowest speed is 450 so it would spray everything around me unless I build a box around the turning.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Three pens, one acrylic, two London plane.


----------



## Garno

I love the two London plane pens mate, the acrylic one is nice as well


----------



## Phil Pascoe

The acrylic one is quite classy - I had two slightly different Sirocco kits and mixed the parts up. I've yet to meet anyone who doesn't like the London plane ones, these are gifts for the funeral directors (and the celebrant) that ran my son's funeral - they kindly gave me some laburnum.


----------



## mikej460

Certainly not skilled work but I built a Mason Bee Observation House using routed cls offcuts, perspex from Wickes and a box made from a BP offcut topped off with bit of slate.











As soon as the cocoons have developed they are removed, cleaned and placed in the lower drawer in early December, when they hatch in early spring they fly out of the small hole. The 'tubes' are cleaned ready for the next year's nests.


----------



## blackteaonesugar

mikej460 said:


> Certainly not skilled work but I built a Mason Bee Observation House using routed cls offcuts, perspex from Wickes and a box made from a BP offcut topped off with bit of slate.


That is so cool. Disagree on the skilled aspect.
Love it.
Did you follow a guide or are you just, a bee guy?


----------



## Jameshow

mikej460 said:


> Certainly not skilled work but I built a Mason Bee Observation House using routed cls offcuts, perspex from Wickes and a box made from a BP offcut topped off with bit of slate.
> 
> View attachment 136720
> 
> 
> View attachment 136721
> 
> 
> As soon as the cocoons have developed they are removed, cleaned and placed in the lower drawer in early December, when they hatch in early spring they fly out of the small hole. The 'tubes' are cleaned ready for the next year's nests.
> 
> View attachment 136723


Absolutely buzzing!


----------



## Padster

So I thought I'd step out of my comfort zone and try something completely new/different. I saw an example of this and thought I'd give it a try...

The wood is a piece of sycamore I had.









Regards

Padster


----------



## mikej460

blackteaonesugar said:


> That is so cool. Disagree on the skilled aspect.
> Love it.
> Did you follow a guide or are you just, a bee guy?


I got the idea from an article I read some time ago then I just made it up


----------



## swisstony

First off this is not on the level of you guys, far from it but I thought I would just share with you my latest tinkering in my workshop build. Basically using what I had to hand , out of scrap. Our wedding anniversary was Sunday and as it is Steel, I bought my wife this hand forged rose which is very nice indeed and she loved it. It is designed to be in the garden and rust over time but no way was that going in the garden.







So had to think of a way to mount it but it is quite heavy so the stand would have been large to carry the weight but I thought it would be too bulky and tip over. So looking around the house I found an old Ikea desk lamp which luckily has a weighted base. 






So came up with a cunning plan. Which involved demolishing the lamp for its base ! That was easy enough .. 





So ended up with the parts I really needed. The metal base with slot, the cast iron weight and a plastic cover. 





Then fettled the rose with a hammer to follow the bend of the groove into the base and drilled /tapped the stem so I could secure it .






Now the fun part, making a base out of some scrap CLS timber I had lying around. This proved to be quite challenging as I had to router out a recess the depth and size of the base so it could fit in underneath and also work out how to reveal the slot. 






Took a little bit of head scratching , a huge mess and not exactly a perfect circle as no way of using a router jig as the radius was too tight but you will never see my terrible hand routing anyway  





Finally you end up with this. All components ready to go back once I have put a finish on it.





Heavy base installed 






And the end result .. I think she will like it , if not will give it to the mistress


----------



## Jameshow

swisstony said:


> First off this is not on the level of you guys, far from it but I thought I would just share with you my latest tinkering in my workshop build. Basically using what I had to hand , out of scrap. Our wedding anniversary was Sunday and as it is Steel, I bought my wife this hand forged rose which is very nice indeed and she loved it. It is designed to be in the garden and rust over time but no way was that going in the garden.
> 
> View attachment 136738
> 
> 
> So had to think of a way to mount it but it is quite heavy so the stand would have been large to carry the weight but I thought it would be too bulky and tip over. So looking around the house I found an old Ikea desk lamp which luckily has a weighted base.
> 
> View attachment 136741
> 
> 
> 
> So came up with a cunning plan. Which involved demolishing the lamp for its base ! That was easy enough ..
> View attachment 136742
> 
> 
> So ended up with the parts I really needed. The metal base with slot, the cast iron weight and a plastic cover.
> View attachment 136743
> 
> 
> Then fettled the rose with a hammer to follow the bend of the groove into the base and drilled /tapped the stem so I could secure it .
> 
> View attachment 136744
> 
> 
> Now the fun part, making a base out of some scrap CLS timber I had lying around. This proved to be quite challenging as I had to router out a recess the depth and size of the base so it could fit in underneath and also work out how to reveal the slot.
> 
> View attachment 136745
> 
> 
> Took a little bit of head scratching , a huge mess and not exactly a perfect circle as no way of using a router jig as the radius was too tight but you will never see my terrible hand routing anyway
> 
> View attachment 136746
> 
> Finally you end up with this. All components ready to go back once I have put a finish on it.
> View attachment 136747
> 
> 
> Heavy base installed
> 
> View attachment 136748
> 
> 
> And the end result .. I think she will like it , if not will give it to the mistress
> View attachment 136749



I can hear the call where has my desk lamp gone....!


----------



## swisstony

Jameshow said:


> I can hear the call where has my desk lamp gone....!


It is my old desk lamp that was about to be chucked in the loft so no great loss and anyway as the saying going " what is mine is mine, and what is yours is mine " so she benefits from me keeping stuff just in case......


----------



## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> I haven't tried yet but have considered it, only difficulty I have is my lathes slowest speed is 450 so it would spray everything around me unless I build a box around the turning.


Some people have hocked up an old bbq rotisserie motor for applying finishes, and epoxy finishes. I wonder if it would be too slow for wet sanding?


----------



## starlingwood

Pair of bedise drawers to match the bed I made.


----------



## David with splinters

Great job. Tidy joints all round and beautifully designed. I love it and hope your partner is equally delighted.


----------



## David with splinters

Jigsaw table for a friend of mine. She has MS and can’t get about much so spends a lot of time sitting down. I hope this will give her something to occupy the time.

My daughter is gifted with textiles and making clothes and my hobbies are woodwork and metalwork so we’ve started collaborating. Hence the logo.


----------



## paulrbarnard

NickDReed said:


> Not the most recent, but just got a picture of it.
> 
> Made for my mum and dad for Christmas. Was an absolute pig to transport and final assembly was done at theirs. View attachment 136697


One of these is at the top of my wife’s wish list…

Looks great!


----------



## Sandyn

I had to resurrect the old Black and Decker DN85 belt sander, but needed a rectangular to round adapter to connect my Dyson to the sander. 

A bit of FreeCad design,






and 3 hours of 3D printing. 

Perfect fit!!


----------



## Ray Stockwell

I’ve actually made two items. I attended an Axminster demonstration by Helen Baily of thin wall bowls and decided to make one. I needed a pre-settable caliper to ‘feel’ the wall thickness and see from the setting screw how much needed to be removed, so I designed and produced this one. (If anyone is interested in obtaining one, please drop me an email at [email protected]). I then used it to produce this Tulip Wood bowl, whose wall thickness is 2mm.


----------



## Ray Stockwell

OCtoolguy said:


> I just finished these. Still need to shoot some shellac on them. My wife liked the first one I made her so much she keeps me busy making them for gifts. I'm burning out on this pattern fairly fast. I hope you like them. About 15 hours in each one. A John Nelson pattern from the book Boxes Bowls and Baskets.


What did you use to cut them?


----------



## Fitzroy

David with splinters said:


> Jigsaw table for a friend of mine. She has MS and can’t get about much so spends a lot of time sitting down. I hope this will give her something to occupy the time.
> 
> My daughter is gifted with textiles and making clothes and my hobbies are woodwork and metalwork so we’ve started collaborating. Hence the logo.


Fantastic! What an amazing thing to do.


----------



## Lefley

starlingwood said:


> View attachment 136761
> 
> 
> View attachment 136762
> 
> 
> Pair of bedise drawers to match the bed I made.


Very nice. I love the dovetails and the second drawer in top! Nice touch. Any excellent drawer needs dovetails. The day they decided drawers did not need dovetails was a sad day..


----------



## Lefley

Sandyn said:


> I had to resurrect the old Black and Decker DN85 belt sander, but needed a rectangular to round adapter to connect my Dyson to the sander.
> 
> A
> and 3 hours of 3D printing.
> 
> Perfect fit!!
> View attachment 136802


Can you tell me what printer you have? I’m looking to get one. To do just what you have done. I need an adapter to the bottom of my unisaw for a dust port.


----------



## Garno

Lefley said:


> Can you tell me what printer you have? I’m looking to get one.



Same here, eventually


----------



## David with splinters

I’m also interested to hear. 

I have a Creality Ender 5-Pro and it’s amazing. Very consistent and easy to use so long as you can do the 3D drawings first.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Ray Stockwell said:


> I’ve actually made two items. I attended an Axminster demonstration by Helen Baily of thin wall bowls and decided to make one. I needed a pre-settable caliper to ‘feel’ the wall thickness and see from the setting screw how much needed to be removed, so I designed and produced this one. (If anyone is interested in obtaining one, please drop me an email at [email protected]). I then used it to produce this Tulip Wood bowl, whose wall thickness is 2mm.


An ingenious devise and a beautiful bowl


----------



## clogs

I need to go to school to learn cad....
if ever I get the time.....lol....


----------



## David with splinters

My advice would be to skip 2D and go straight to Fusion 360. Some excellent tutorials on YouTube.


----------



## Sandyn

Lefley said:


> Can you tell me what printer you have? I’m looking to get one. To do just what you have done. I need an adapter to the bottom of my unisaw for a dust port.


I got a Monoprice mini delta V2 (Malyan M300) as a Christmas present. It has been one of the best 'toys' I have ever had I use it all the time. First, disadvantages:- It's print bed is 110mm Diameter X 120mm high, so relatively small when compared to some of the bigger units out there. So far, it hasn't really been a great problem for me. It doesn't do really small parts very well, but I suspect that's a common problem for all 3D printers. 
The good points. It's cheap. It works very well, self leveling bed, the supplied slicer, Wibuilder works very well, it's very quiet, It works out of the box, WiFi connection. There's a good support site here.
I'm sure I will get a larger printer in future, but I would still use the Monoprice.
I use FreeCad. So far, I've been able to do everything I need using it.


----------



## clogs

all sounds rather complicated.....
I'd be happy just paying somebody to make up stuff for me....


----------



## Garno

Acrylic resin twist pen


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Finally finished making all of the


Sawdust=manglitter said:


> While waiting for the house sale to go through i was looking for a project to get stuck into, so i thought i’d make myself, what i call, a ‘man box’… which is a watch storage box where i’ll also keep cufflinks, rings etc in.
> 
> The box is all solid wood, made of British Walnut (with some spalting), the lid is crotch figure from the same log, with the compartment dividers made of African Blackwood, all lining made of black dyed pig suade, and treated myself to the ‘smart hinges’ and ‘smart lock’. Not obvious from the photos, but the sides of the box are all angled by a subtle 2.5 degrees, so unfortunately this was already cut when i received the hinges and lock, so i had to fit them all by hand rather than on a router table as recommended. This project had been great hand tool practice!
> 
> I still have to make the ‘watch pillows’, and also the ring/cufflink storage insert though!
> 
> View attachment 134966
> View attachment 134967
> View attachment 134968
> View attachment 134969
> View attachment 134970
> View attachment 134971
> View attachment 134972
> View attachment 134973
> View attachment 134974
> View attachment 134975



Finally finished making the ‘watch pillow’ inserts for my watch box. (I dont own any super expensive posh watches, and havent worn a few of these for years! ). The watch pillows are made using shaped offcuts of kaizan foam (made a long regularised length to cut slices from) and used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to stick the leather to the foam. The circumferential leather was done using Custard’s card and double sided tape method, but was stuck on using the spray adhesive


----------



## David with splinters

Beautiful job. Where did you buy the watch box hardware (lock and hinges) please?


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

David with splinters said:


> Beautiful job. Where did you buy the watch box hardware (lock and hinges) please?


Thanks David. The hardware is at the below link. Although a little pricey, they are incredibly well made and well worth the money. Unfortunately i had already hand planed an angle of 2.5degs to the box sides so wasnt able to do the router table method they recommend, but doing them by hand wasnt too bad…


https://www.smartboxmaker.com/product/smartware/


----------



## David with splinters

Yes, a bit pricey but worth every penny. Thank you.


----------



## SteL

Spent the day giving my oil stone a new box. It deserved better than the MDF hovel it used to live in. I had a go at using an old moulding plane I bought years ago so that was fun!














Looking at the pictures, I’ve just realised I made a bigger job out of the lid than was needed. Rather than paring the hole for the stone I should’ve just glued two end bits on to a thin top and then glued the beading on. Oh well!


----------



## Padster

So I've been trying different things lately, here are my latest attempts. At home I can't make for one and not the other so here are a pair of pot pourri holders one for my wife and one for my daughter...









Regards

Padster


----------



## Molynoox

David with splinters said:


> Welcome everyone. New to the forum and thought I’d introduce myself with my latest project. Although photographed outdoors this now lives inside as my wife thinks it’s too contemporary for our garden. Looking forward to seeing what you are all up to.
> 
> View attachment 136639
> View attachment 136640


I really love that. So unique, modern, super slick design.


----------



## NickVanBeest

Padster said:


> So I've been trying different things lately, here are my latest attempts. At home I can't make for one and not the other so here are a pair of pot pourri holders one for my wife and one for my daughter...


Where do you get those inserts?


----------



## Molynoox

David with splinters said:


> Welcome everyone. New to the forum and thought I’d introduce myself with my latest project. Although photographed outdoors this now lives inside as my wife thinks it’s too contemporary for our garden. Looking forward to seeing what you are all up to.
> 
> View attachment 136639
> View attachment 136640


Also, that is the lawn of somebody that knows what they are doing when it comes to lawns


----------



## johnnipper0

Hi all. I'm new here and new to woodworking. I've watched a few videos on YT and thought ' I could do that'. So i did. I made the planter first. Got the bug, and made the bench. What do you guys think?


----------



## Padster

NickVanBeest said:


> Where do you get those inserts?


Axminster do them, very reasonable, although it’s both a convenience and a danger that they are only half hour away


----------



## DBC

Not so much what we were making - some el cheapo bookcases for a new second hand bookshop opening in the village - but who I was working with this weekend. My best mate and 21 year old son who spent much of the last few years in NZ where he was backpacking when covid came and stayed to wait it out as they didn’t have it there. He’s back in the UK now at uni and this weekend was the most time we’d spent just the two of us since he was a teenager. Awesome weekend.


----------



## Stigmorgan

NickVanBeest said:


> Where do you get those inserts?


I bought mine from yandles Pewter Lids - Tools & Machines - Yandles


----------



## Wood&StuffLtd




----------



## Kayen

The brief was: A statement piece, unusual and sculptural - so that's what they got!

The top was 2400 x 1000 x 19mm low-iron glass and weighed 120kg - my tiny size 8 boss (wife) didn't thank me for that 

The base, which we delivered in two parts probably weighed a total of 180kg, thankfully they have concrete floors.


----------



## dzj

I made some stair treads and glued them to a concrete substrate.
Dyed Beech, distressed, varnished. (The architect thought it'd look nice.)
Glass railings yet to be installed. Not my job, though.


----------



## DavidConnelly




----------



## OCtoolguy

Ray Stockwell said:


> What did you use to cut them?


All done on my scroll saw. I did have to use a router to create the hidden 1/4" deep x 3/8" wide rabbet inside of the top piece. The sides are all 3D compound cuts. About an hour each.


----------



## OCtoolguy

swisstony said:


> First off this is not on the level of you guys, far from it but I thought I would just share with you my latest tinkering in my workshop build. Basically using what I had to hand , out of scrap. Our wedding anniversary was Sunday and as it is Steel, I bought my wife this hand forged rose which is very nice indeed and she loved it. It is designed to be in the garden and rust over time but no way was that going in the garden.
> 
> View attachment 136738
> 
> 
> So had to think of a way to mount it but it is quite heavy so the stand would have been large to carry the weight but I thought it would be too bulky and tip over. So looking around the house I found an old Ikea desk lamp which luckily has a weighted base.
> 
> View attachment 136741
> 
> 
> So came up with a cunning plan. Which involved demolishing the lamp for its base ! That was easy enough ..
> View attachment 136742
> 
> 
> So ended up with the parts I really needed. The metal base with slot, the cast iron weight and a plastic cover.
> View attachment 136743
> 
> 
> Then fettled the rose with a hammer to follow the bend of the groove into the base and drilled /tapped the stem so I could secure it .
> 
> View attachment 136744
> 
> 
> Now the fun part, making a base out of some scrap CLS timber I had lying around. This proved to be quite challenging as I had to router out a recess the depth and size of the base so it could fit in underneath and also work out how to reveal the slot.
> 
> View attachment 136745
> 
> 
> Took a little bit of head scratching , a huge mess and not exactly a perfect circle as no way of using a router jig as the radius was too tight but you will never see my terrible hand routing anyway
> 
> View attachment 136746
> 
> Finally you end up with this. All components ready to go back once I have put a finish on it.
> View attachment 136747
> 
> 
> Heavy base installed
> 
> View attachment 136748
> 
> 
> And the end result .. I think she will like it , if not will give it to the mistress
> View attachment 136749


I strongly disagree. This is a very nice piece and well done. Craftsmanship at its best.


----------



## OCtoolguy

Sandyn said:


> I had to resurrect the old Black and Decker DN85 belt sander, but needed a rectangular to round adapter to connect my Dyson to the sander.
> 
> A bit of FreeCad design,
> 
> View attachment 136801
> 
> 
> and 3 hours of 3D printing.
> 
> Perfect fit!!
> View attachment 136802


I truly envy you folks who are adept at doing the "3-D" printing thing. I wish I knew how and I wish I had a printer. Next life.


----------



## OCtoolguy

David with splinters said:


> I’m also interested to hear.
> 
> I have a Creality Ender 5-Pro and it’s amazing. Very consistent and easy to use so long as you can do the 3D drawings first.


Is there a very long learning curve for the software creation? I'm fairly computer literate but know nothing about how to go about doing this. I'd appreciate any leads on how/where to learn to do the pattern creation. Thanks for any help.


----------



## Sandyn

OCtoolguy said:


> I truly envy you folks who are adept at doing the "3-D" printing thing


I'm not adept. I am just stubborn as hell when it comes to software. I will not be beaten by any software when I am motivated to learn it. Getting the motivation is key to learning. In my case, I wanted to make something for my Myford ML7. I knew what I wanted to make, so I found tutorials here and there. I use FreeCad. There are some really good tutorials at the FreeCad site, there are also on-line tutorials, but half of them, I just can't understand what the person is saying. Another problem I found was YouTube tutorials used slightly different versions of the software and the Icons were in different places, so following what someone was doing was very difficult at times. During my early learning stage, I might start a design dozens of times, then get stuck and have to delete the model and start again. The early stages were slow going, but then the penny dropped about attaching sketches to an existing face and either adding material (padding) or removing material )( pocket). Then I started making faster progress. I think the first stage of learning took 4 weeks. I now have about 100 different designs. I have made model jet engines, wheels and simple undercarriage for a toy plane. Escutcheon, gears for my lathe, measuring scale for my planer, handle for the pull start for my mower, a complete kit for removing and replacing the BB30 bearings on my bike, various adapters for dust extraction.
I decided on FreeCad. Fusion 360 is probably a lot better, but there are some limitations on the free version and I didn't understand how these limitations might restrict what I could do in the future. It looked like I would have to learn the program to find out what the limitations were and I didn't know the terminology or have the knowledge to ask.
So far, I have managed to do everything I want using FreeCad. Being freeware, it has some quirky behaviour and some bugs, but that hasn't put me off yet.
Seven months ago, I was in a similar situation to yourself. I envied people who could design things using 3D CAD programs. Now I can rattle off designs quite quickly, but I don't think I'm an experienced or competent FreeCad user. The rectangle to round adapter is really easy to do in FreeCad. Basically you draw a rectangle and a circle and the software lofts one profile through the other. Very very simple to do. The software does all the clever stuff. Printing is really easy, the software does everything. I have been lucky with the printer I use and the software supplied with it. It works very well for a beginner like me.
It's not technically difficult to learn the software, it's more about learning the simple steps/sequence to produce a design and finding the information how to create what you want.
Do you have anything you would like to make that would give you the motivation to learn?


----------



## OCtoolguy

Thank you so much for taking the time to write your explanation. I'm 79 years old but highly motivated to learn something. I am a scroller and most of us use Inkscape to make changes to patterns and also to create new ones. But, for the life of me, I can't seem to grasp the basics. Either I'm doing something wrong or the software doesn't respond as it should. Anyway, I'm fighting my way through it but I get so frustrated that I always end up quitting and just make the changes ad-hoc without a drawing. At this point, I don't have anything in mind to make but I am going to get a printer somewhere along the line if the economy ever gets out of it's doldrums and I have some free-ed up money to spend. So, with that in mind, I will have to be learning how to create a drawing/plan in order to feed the printer. I'll see if I can find that software that you are using and have a go at learning it. Thanks again for your time. You are very kind.


----------



## swisstony

OCtoolguy said:


> I strongly disagree. This is a very nice piece and well done. Craftsmanship at its best.


Well thank you very much but I am realistic at my skill level when I see some of the work that gets turned out on here . The way I see it is if I get brownie points from the good lady wife it’s a win in my book


----------



## swisstony

johnnipper0 said:


> Hi all. I'm new here and new to woodworking. I've watched a few videos on YT and thought ' I could do that'. So i did. I made the planter first. Got the bug, and made the bench. What do you guys think?


Well done I say , if that is your first time at woodworking then you have a hidden talent as that is very good indeed. You could watch videos all day long but no substitute for going out and having a go . I look back at some of my first attempts and they now look rough as you like but you have managed some great pieces there. Nice


----------



## Sandyn

OCtoolguy said:


> Thank you so much for taking the time to write your explanation. I'm 79 years old but highly motivated to learn something. I am a scroller and most of us use Inkscape to make changes to patterns and also to create new ones. But, for the life of me, I can't seem to grasp the basics. Either I'm doing something wrong or the software doesn't respond as it should.


I used Inkscape for several years to produce manufacturing drawings for various projects when I was employed. The company only used open source and free software. Inkscape drawing tools are a bit 'strange' to use, especially drawing curves. The click, drag, then right or left click, I find awkward and frustrating to use, so you are not alone!! What are you trying to draw? I would be happy to try help you if I can and I'm sure there are experienced users of Inkscape on here who can help.


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

OCtoolguy said:


> Is there a very long learning curve for the software creation? I'm fairly computer literate but know nothing about how to go about doing this. I'd appreciate any leads on how/where to learn to do the pattern creation. Thanks for any help.


I am a long term user of the free Designspark Mechanical and find it pretty much straightforward and intuitive. There are loads of YouTube videos both indies and from RS Components who support it. I've produced numerous drawings for the 3D items I want/ need around the house or workshop. It produces the STL files you will need to transfer to your 3D printer as most other packages will. Recently I succumbed to all the hype about Fusion 360 but find it so much more difficult to get into.
Have fun and if you get stuck give us a shout. 
Martin


----------



## Stigmorgan

Not been in my little makerspace for a while so today I've made 2 little things from a couple of branch offcuts, one cherry and one silver birch, bothe finished with Danish Oil


----------



## MichaelChou

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Finally finished making all of the
> 
> 
> Finally finished making the ‘watch pillow’ inserts for my watch box. (I dont own any super expensive posh watches, and havent worn a few of these for years! ). The watch pillows are made using shaped offcuts of kaizan foam (made a long regularised length to cut slices from) and used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to stick the leather to the foam. The circumferential leather was done using Custard’s card and double sided tape method, but was stuck on using the spray adhesive
> 
> View attachment 137003
> View attachment 137004
> View attachment 137005
> View attachment 137006


This is lovely. Sometimes I see things on this tread that get stuck in my head, this has been in my head for a few days since seeing it. It looks fun to make. I’m going to get stuck in as soon as I finish the castle for Lego figures that I saw on here a few weeks ago! Thanks for posting. Don’t suppose you could find a link to the thread you mentioned about adhering the leather?


----------



## Flynnwood

MichaelChou said:


> This is lovely. Sometimes I see things on this tread that get stuck in my head, this has been in my head for a few days since seeing it. It looks fun to make. I’m going to get stuck in as soon as I finish the castle for Lego figures that I saw on here a few weeks ago! Thanks for posting. Don’t suppose you could find a link to the thread you mentioned about adhering the leather?


Possibly in this thread:








How to Line Boxes & Drawers


Properly lining boxes or drawers, ideally with suede but many fabrics are also suitable, totally transforms the item, adding a great deal of value and hugely lifting the perception of quality. Furthermore, for many applications, such as jewellery, musical instruments, valuable writing...




www.ukworkshop.co.uk


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Flynnwood said:


> Possibly in this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to Line Boxes & Drawers
> 
> 
> Properly lining boxes or drawers, ideally with suede but many fabrics are also suitable, totally transforms the item, adding a great deal of value and hugely lifting the perception of quality. Furthermore, for many applications, such as jewellery, musical instruments, valuable writing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ukworkshop.co.uk


Yes, that’s the one! Very informative thread.



MichaelChou said:


> This is lovely. Sometimes I see things on this tread that get stuck in my head, this has been in my head for a few days since seeing it. It looks fun to make. I’m going to get stuck in as soon as I finish the castle for Lego figures that I saw on here a few weeks ago! Thanks for posting. Don’t suppose you could find a link to the thread you mentioned about adhering the leather?


Thank you Michael. The leather work is quite fiddly and surprisingly time-consuming, but very satisfying! 
I did all of the box lining using Custard’s method above, but i adapted the method to make the ‘watch pillows’. Hopefully you can make out what i did in these photos. Instead of Copydex i used 3M spray adhesive…

































And hey presto, just carefully wrap that leather around the foam


----------



## DavidRa

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Finally finished making all of the
> 
> 
> Finally finished making the ‘watch pillow’ inserts for my watch box. (I dont own any super expensive posh watches, and havent worn a few of these for years! ). The watch pillows are made using shaped offcuts of kaizan foam (made a long regularised length to cut slices from) and used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to stick the leather to the foam. The circumferential leather was done using Custard’s card and double sided tape method, but was stuck on using the spray adhesive
> 
> View attachment 137003
> View attachment 137004
> View attachment 137005
> View attachment 137006


----------



## DavidRa

Love


Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Finally finished making all of the
> 
> 
> Finally finished making the ‘watch pillow’ inserts for my watch box. (I dont own any super expensive posh watches, and havent worn a few of these for years! ). The watch pillows are made using shaped offcuts of kaizan foam (made a long regularised length to cut slices from) and used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to stick the leather to the foam. The circumferential leather was done using Custard’s card and double sided tape method, but was stuck on using the spray adhesive
> 
> View attachment 137003
> View attachment 137004
> View attachment 137005
> View attachment 137006


lovely work. How did you do the initials inside the lid?


----------



## Tcrowe

Started working on some joinery a few months back and this was my first real attempt at anything other than practicing. First time working with any hardwood other than oak. Recycled from some old science lab counter tops in our school. Ive been told its teak but someone may correct me on that. Fair amount of sanding to remove the old multiple layers of varnish on it. Planer would have been handy but didn't have one. 

Cheers
Tiarnan


----------



## MikeJhn

Too late now, but would look better with the leg tenons on the inside of the legs giving a smooth flush finish to the outside, but never the less nice work for a first time.


----------



## SamG340

MikeJhn said:


> Too late now, but would look better with the leg tenons on the inside of the legs giving a smooth flush finish to the outside, but never the less nice work for a first time.



Yea I think you're right but I actually like the visible joinery, I like to see the workings


----------



## MikeJhn

It's good that you are confident enough to show your joints, personally I always try to hide mine.


----------



## Tcrowe

MikeJhn said:


> Too late now, but would look better with the leg tenons on the inside of the legs giving a smooth flush finish to the outside, but never the less nice work for a first time.


Yea fair point but I wanted to be able to see the joint. Was really just experimenting with the joints for my first one.


----------



## Sheptonphil

A project for a friend. He has a Bull Terrier which is a great dog, but prone to chewing the furniture when left alone. They use a wire crate but it looks kinda naff if the living room and wanted a more ‘furniture‘ looking version. This is my take on a solid oak dog crate. Water proof liner ‘just in case’.


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

DavidRa said:


> Love
> 
> lovely work. How did you do the initials inside the lid?


Thank you! I had a couple of different size branding irons made via etsy a few years ago. Something like…

2cm-10cm Custom Leather Stampleather Branding Iron | Etsy UK


----------



## Fred48

Tcrowe said:


> View attachment 137206
> View attachment 137207
> 
> Started working on some joinery a few months back and this was my first real attempt at anything other than practicing. First time working with any hardwood other than oak. Recycled from some old science lab counter tops in our school. Ive been told its teak but someone may correct me on that. Fair amount of sanding to remove the old multiple layers of varnish on it. Planer would have been handy but didn't have one.
> 
> Cheers
> Tiarnan


----------



## Fred48

Great work. I personally enjoy seeing the joinery.
Thanks for sharing
Fred


----------



## SamG340

Sheptonphil said:


> A project for a friend. He has a Bull Terrier which is a great dog, but prone to chewing the furniture when left alone. They use a wire crate but it looks kinda naff if the living room and wanted a more ‘furniture‘ looking version. This is my take on a solid oak dog crate. Water proof liner ‘just in case’.View attachment 137332
> View attachment 137334
> View attachment 137335
> View attachment 137336



Good idea I like it


----------



## MikeJhn

The owners need training not the dog impounding.


----------



## SamG340

MikeJhn said:


> The owners need training not the dog impounding.



Dog crates are a good idea if you use them properly.


----------



## MikeJhn

SamG340 said:


> Dog crates are a good idea if you use them properly.


To transport the dog maybe, but if you have to restrict the movements of a dog in the home the owners and the dog need training.


----------



## NickVanBeest

First attempt at compound miter cutting, not bad, but not perfect...


----------



## SamG340

MikeJhn said:


> To transport the dog maybe, but if you have to restrict the movements of a dog in the home the owners and the dog need training.



I think that's quite a limited and narrow minded way to look at it. Our dogs love their crate and sleep in it willing, it's nice for them to have their own space. We use the crate as a training tool, 5 minute calm down works wonders for our German shepherds, much better than telling them off.. Dogs come in soaking wet / muddy from the garden , 15 mins in the crate to dry off.. When we have young kids over and things get a bit hectic it's good for the dogs to have somewhere to get out the way and we make sure the kids leave the dog alone while it's in there. Ect ect



I agree a lot of owners use crates badly. You can't just lock your dog in a box and ignore them. but when used right they're very handy.


----------



## Cordy

Made this planter for my sister


----------



## MichaelChou

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Yes, that’s the one! Very informative thread.
> 
> 
> Thank you Michael. The leather work is quite fiddly and surprisingly time-consuming, but very satisfying!
> I did all of the box lining using Custard’s method above, but i adapted the method to make the ‘watch pillows’. Hopefully you can make out what i did in these photos. Instead of Copydex i used 3M spray adhesive…
> 
> View attachment 137295
> View attachment 137293
> View attachment 137294
> View attachment 137296
> View attachment 137297
> View attachment 137298
> View attachment 137299
> View attachment 137300
> View attachment 137301
> View attachment 137302
> 
> 
> And hey presto, just carefully wrap that leather around the foam


Fantastic! Thank you very much for that.


----------



## Doug71

Today I went to fit a small Pine door that I made, it was an addition to a bookshelf job I did a few weeks ago. I have posted pictures of the bookshelf before but thought it was worth another now it's stained and full of books.

It's nice to see things fully finished and in use as often I don't get to see the finished article.


----------



## Sheptonphil

SamG340 said:


> Good idea I like it


The metalwork is from a dismantled crate from B&M, all in routed grooves on the top, base and corners. The grooves in base and top are then filled with coloured resin to give a nice finish, strengthening the structure and eliminating dirt traps.


----------



## DBC

Doug71 said:


> Today I went to fit a small Pine door that I made, it was an addition to a bookshelf job I did a few weeks ago. I have posted pictures of the bookshelf before but thought it was worth another now it's stained and full of books.
> 
> It's nice to see things fully finished and in use as often I don't get to see the finished article.
> 
> 
> View attachment 137406





Doug71 said:


> View attachment 137407



Doug,

SNAP.

we were doing exactly the same work today you and me.





Like you I hardly ever see the finished article especially on paint quality work like this as I don’t provide that service. I sometimes ask the painters if I know them or customers to send me a picture when things are finished but they seldom remember to. However, a customer from last year was in front of me in the queue in the supermarket last week and said the standard ‘we love it thanks, must get you around again to do so and so‘ and ‘I haven’t forgotten to send you a picture I just haven’t got around to it’. I get this all the time as I live in a village and can’t go anywhere without seeing a customer. I’ve pretty much given up on the pubs even as all I get is work requests. Many/most of these are for favours which is code for doing something for free. You can spot these coming because they start with ‘next time you’re in my street would you mind…’. In particular, if you buy yourself a car instead of a van why do you feel empowered to ask the local tradesman - even if you have only the most passing acquaintance - to pick things up, deliver things, help you move house etc as a ‘favour’.

Anyway gripe over. The lady from the queue in the Co-op did send a picture its below; although you can’t really see the glass cabinets in the photo.







Ps. I had nothing to do with the ugly little shelf on the screwfix brackets.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Started yesterday and finished this morning, spalted sycamore cake stand type thing, lost a lot of the nicer spalting turning out the worst of the cracks but overall it came put really nice, it tears out even with a sharp gouge but it also sands very easily so quickly sanded out the blemishes, the foot and underside were sanded to 320 then abrasive paste followed by shellac friction polish, the top is sanded up to 600 then finished with walnut oil, I'm pretty pleased with it although it has a all dent where I dropped it while parting it off.


----------



## Boris D Bus

Started the dining table for the misses. 




Might not be ready for a bit, but it’s the thought that counts…


----------



## Blackswanwood

American Black Walnut and Pepperwood jewellery box


----------



## Jester129

Is that a yeti on the top?
Beautifully made box, congratulations.


----------



## Rodpr

That is a lovely piece of work - I hope the recipient appreciates how much care and attention has gone into it!


----------



## DBC

great box.

the book matching reminds me of the Blake painting of the dragon and the woman wearing the sun.









The Great Red Dragon paintings - Wikipedia







en.wikipedia.org


----------



## Sporky McGuffin

I made a new sign for the dog watering station at the front of the house; we've been here a year and a half so the old "under new management" one wasn't really appropriate any more. I think it's bubinga, CNC carved, painted gold, sanded back, polyacrylic brushed over everything. On two keyhole hangers.


----------



## Lefley

Blackswanwood said:


> American Black Walnut and Pepperwood jewellery box
> 
> View attachment 137566
> View attachment 137567
> View attachment 137568
> View attachment 137569
> View attachment 137570


Looks like a majestic grizzly bear in Burl! Nice box !


----------



## Stigmorgan

@Blackswanwood the close up shot looks like a bear, the pic showing the whole thing looks like a bearded man (to me anyway)


----------



## sawtooth-9

Blackswanwood said:


> American Black Walnut and Pepperwood jewellery box
> 
> View attachment 137566
> View attachment 137567
> View attachment 137568
> View attachment 137569
> View attachment 137570


Beautifully done.
That's a stunner and you should be proud !


----------



## sawtooth-9

Sheptonphil said:


> A project for a friend. He has a Bull Terrier which is a great dog, but prone to chewing the furniture when left alone. They use a wire crate but it looks kinda naff if the living room and wanted a more ‘furniture‘ looking version. This is my take on a solid oak dog crate. Water proof liner ‘just in case’.View attachment 137332
> View attachment 137334
> View attachment 137335
> View attachment 137336


That's what is classed a full -0n " Waftam " "What a fuc...g waste of time and money".
Just get rid of the dog or give the owner some serious training !


----------



## Blackswanwood

Thanks for the kind comments. 

Everyone seems to see something in the Pepperwood Burr. Someone pointed out a warthog which is obvious once you spot it and when looked at the other way round there is a Yoda in there!


----------



## gregmcateer

That is stunning! I also love the bear/bison head inside


----------



## Fitzroy

Gruffalo, young children, too many kids books.


----------



## Stigmorgan

So today I decided to try a little experiment, I turned a very very thin (1mm) little cherry pot, it's still fairly wet so fully expect it to split, in fact it started splitting before I finished soaking it in teak oil, I then wrapped it in the oily paper towel, filled the pot with the wet shavings then wrapped it all up in plastic and put it up on a shelf. Will check on it in a few months to see how much it moved.


----------



## NickDReed

Stigmorgan said:


> So today I decided to try a little experiment, I turned a very very thin (1mm) little cherry pot, it's still fairly wet so fully expect it to split, in fact it started splitting before I finished soaking it in teak oil, I then wrapped it in the oily paper towel, filled the pot with the wet shavings then wrapped it all up in plastic and put it up on a shelf. Will check on it in a few months to see how much it moved.


Be sure to update us when you check it!


----------



## Stigmorgan

NickDReed said:


> Be sure to update us when you check it!


Will do, school breaks up for summer in 6 weeks so will probably check then


----------



## gog64

@Blackswanwood thats seriously nice,and beautifully made, but there’s clearly some kind of freaky animal in the lid and he’s not happy!


----------



## Padster

Another first for me - I used some deep pour resin on pine cones. The resin used is not supposed to require a pressure pot or anything external, just mixing and pour leave 5-7 days.

Well there were more bubbles than I care to admit and turning it was....challenging for my ability.

I thought about not posting, and at one point thought I'd have nothing to post anyway!

Still I have managed to produce something, nowhere as thin as I'd like or the shape I wanted, or the finish I wanted but it is something so I'm happy but not happy!

Here ya go: 










Regards

Padster


----------



## Jester129

Padster, you ought to be over the moon, it looks great! Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Stigmorgan

@Padster I second what @Jester129 said, fir a first shot at resin that's gorgeous, rarely is anyone perfect at first attempt but if you don't like it that much send it to me, I'll happily pass it off as my own work


----------



## Louisvn

Padster, it is an excellent piece, well done.


----------



## Fitzroy

Padster said:


> Another first for me - I used some deep pour resin on pine cones. The resin used is not supposed to require a pressure pot or anything external, just mixing and pour leave 5-7 days.
> 
> Well there were more bubbles than I care to admit and turning it was....challenging for my ability.
> 
> I thought about not posting, and at one point thought I'd have nothing to post anyway!
> 
> Still I have managed to produce something, nowhere as thin as I'd like or the shape I wanted, or the finish I wanted but it is something so I'm happy but not happy!
> 
> Here ya go: View attachment 137664
> View attachment 137665
> View attachment 137666
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster


One of the issues with epoxy can be air coming out of the wood/other item being embedded. The epoxy on it's own could well have sufficiently low viscosity and long set time that the bubbles will settle out in time. However the air in the cones is getting hung up on the cones, or slowly appearing after the epoxy has thickened up and hence not settling out. I've seen folks dip/coat the items in faster setting epoxy to prevent this prior to them being cast.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Two more podlets today, both from 1 piece of silver birch, the stems aren't quite as thin as I would like but I've had quite a few failures recently so decided to be cautious today, one finished in Danish Oil. Last pic is of my little storage shelf of podlets I have left, ive gifted quite a few recently.


----------



## Padster

Another new 'thing' but this time simpler, just a tea light holder...









Regards

Padster


----------



## dzj

A cabinet for the vestibule of a Romanian Orthodox Church.
For the sale of candles, incense, small icons, crucifixes and such.
Made to resemble somewhat the seats (stacidia) around the nave.


----------



## Richard C-D

A play table and chairs made for my niece's one and three year old daughters. Mostly constructed from reclaimed chestnut from old wardrobes. Made the table top round so they couldn't argue about who sits where. The table legs splay about 10 degrees for stability which made the drawer construction slightly tricky. Finished with Osmo but not sure how this will hold up against paint and felt tips.


----------



## OCtoolguy

Sandyn said:


> I used Inkscape for several years to produce manufacturing drawings for various projects when I was employed. The company only used open source and free software. Inkscape drawing tools are a bit 'strange' to use, especially drawing curves. The click, drag, then right or left click, I find awkward and frustrating to use, so you are not alone!! What are you trying to draw? I would be happy to try help you if I can and I'm sure there are experienced users of Inkscape on here who can help.


Thanks for your offer. I'm not trying to do anything in particular at this time but if I come up with a need, I'll contact you. I am learning it a bit at a time and am actually succeeding in some things.


----------



## OCtoolguy

Here is something that I knocked out in just a few hours. 
An easy one. It was supposed to be a flower vase but I wanted to use it as a candle holder. I found a set of 2" diameter flameless candles, 2, 4, 6 inches each. This one is the 6". I had to alter the pattern a bit to allow for an opening in the base to access the switch and battery cover. The top and bottom are of oak and the sides are cherry. Just Watco oil for a finish. I might shoot a coat or 2 of spray shellac to give a bit of sheen. All comments are welcome.


----------



## Fanous

Richard C-D said:


> A play table and chairs made for my niece's one and three year old daughters. Mostly constructed from reclaimed chestnut from old wardrobes. Made the table top round so they couldn't argue about who sits where. The table legs splay about 10 degrees for stability which made the drawer construction slightly tricky. Finished with Osmo but not sure how this will hold up against paint and felt tips.
> 
> View attachment 137754
> 
> 
> View attachment 137755


Well done, especially like the single piece drawer face, and the surrounding board. fair play.


----------



## RINK123

Xmas Time


----------



## paulrbarnard

RINK123 said:


> Xmas Time


What are the snowmen made of?


----------



## Droogs

er...


----------



## Stigmorgan

So today I made another silver birch podlet but as I was parting it off the base flew apart so I cleaned up the end of the stem and finished it with furniture wax that had melted due to the heat, then I took an iroko pallet block and turned a very quick twig pot for it to sit in and finished that with Danish Oil


----------



## Cooper

Stigmorgan, I'm fascinated by your pieces, looking at them you must generate an awful lot of shavings. What do you do with it all?

Martin


----------



## Lefley

Made the door, entrance, roof etc,


----------



## Stigmorgan

Cooper said:


> Stigmorgan, I'm fascinated by your pieces, looking at them you must generate an awful lot of shavings. What do you do with it all?
> 
> Martin


Thank you  
Quite a few shavings, almost half get mixed into the school allotment compost bins and the rest I bag up and the binmen take them for me (I look after them at Xmas and they look after me all year ) although lately I've been very very lazy and have a compacted 3inch layer on the floor of my maker space, it's alot more comfortable to stand on than the bare concrete but I do need to clean up this weekend.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> Made the door, entrance, roof etc,


That is as beautiful as we would expect from you Lefley, your skills are definitely something to aspire to


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

Stigmorgan said:


> Thank you
> Quite a few shavings, almost half get mixed into the school allotment compost bins and the rest I bag up and the binmen take them for me (I look after them at Xmas and they look after me all year ) although lately I've been very very lazy and have a compacted 3inch layer on the floor of my maker space, it's alot more comfortable to stand on than the bare concrete but I do need to clean up this weekend.


I bag up my shavings (I try to keep MDF out) and offer them on freecycle as pet bedding. Its not long before it goes.


----------



## Stigmorgan

MorrisWoodman12 said:


> I bag up my shavings (I try to keep MDF out) and offer them on freecycle as pet bedding. Its not long before it goes.


Thats not ideal unless you know the woods you ha e are animal safe and are not contaminated by any of your wood finishes, my shavings tend to get sprayed by the oils I use so would not be good for that use.


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

Stigmorgan said:


> Thats not ideal unless you know the woods you ha e are animal safe and are not contaminated by any of your wood finishes, my shavings tend to get sprayed by the oils I use so would not be good for that use.


Good call though 90% of the shavings will be pine, the rest probably oak and shouldn't be contaminated by finishes since I only apply by rubbing or occasionally with a brush. Hope that puts your mind to rest.


----------



## clogs

lefley
nice job....esp the glue lam beam.....
wish we could get straight knot free wood....

Actually here it's cheaper by at least 50% to use steel now.....
easy to bend and hidden fixings....
which is what most people are doing now for purglers n outside frameing etc....
have a few commisions to do this winter....
a piece of [email protected] pine 5"x5"x3m long is over 50 euro's....


----------



## ScottyT

Something a little different here for me, more of a team effort this one.
I made the 3 rings in the top and the columns themselves, and assisted in the arches very briefly. I also machined and fitted the mouldings on the very top. 4 man install in the capitol city that I was a part of. 
A good few months work this.


----------



## sawtooth-9

clogs said:


> lefley
> nice job....esp the glue lam beam.....
> wish we could get straight knot free wood....
> 
> Actually here it's cheaper by at least 50% to use steel now.....
> easy to bend and hidden fixings....
> which is what most people are doing now for purglers n outside frameing etc....
> have a few commisions to do this winter....
> a piece of [email protected] pine 5"x5"x3m long is over 50 euro's....


Ouch !
That's not cheap.
BUT, steel just might become a little more costly thanks to Putin !
Alas, the cost of living !


----------



## niall Y

ScottyT said:


> View attachment 137928
> Something a little different here for me, more of a team effort this one.
> I made the 3 rings in the top and the columns themselves, and assisted in the arches very briefly. I also machined and fitted the mouldings on the very top. 4 man install in the capitol city that I was a part of.
> A good few months work this.


A great piece of work - very classy.


----------



## Jameshow

Found this chest of drawers I made during covid.... 

Gathering dust and dents in the garage so I found a new home for it.


----------



## Stigmorgan

2 more creations today, got a few pieces of very green (cut yesterday) willow, not sure of exact species but the bark is beautiful 
so I figured I would use a piece to make a podlet, I did not enjoy turning it, the bark flew off and the wood is very fibrous and kept clogging the gouge, not sure if it's due to how green it is or not, it also cracks quicker than I can cut a section and reseal it, the grain doesn't really seem very interesting, perhaps because there's no spalting on it but overall it came out OK, finished it with Danish Oil, I then threw on an Iroko pallet block and turned a twig vase, Iroko never disappoints.


----------



## ScottyT

niall Y said:


> A great piece of work - very classy.


Thank you


----------



## Padster

Well I posted my first tea light recently but I think there's a saying about the power of three so I made it two companions...






Regards

Padster


----------



## Stigmorgan

@Padster beautiful work  

I got bored so went back out to the makerspace and grabbed a piece of unknown wood that a friend had grabbed from a demolition site and made a small vase/ large twig pot


----------



## Fleabit104

My first ever post (hopefully uploaded correctly???)! and really enjoying reading the threads and getting advice…Finally finished making my MFT table after years of working on a trestle style bench. The difference it has made has been unbelievable. Wish I had done it sooner.


----------



## TRITON

Fleabit104 said:


> My first ever post (hopefully uploaded correctly???)! and really enjoying reading the threads and getting advice…Finally finished making my MFT table after years of working on a trestle style bench. The difference it has made has been unbelievable. Wish I had done it sooner.


Well done. is that mdf or ply you've used ?.


----------



## Fleabit104

TRITON said:


> Well done. is that mdf or ply you've used ?.


Thank you! 
Mostly 18mm ply with 18mm MDF painted black for a contrast. Screw heads are plugged with teak to finish it off. I’ve also made some MDF lengths to use as sacrificial pieces to cut into so as not to damage the top too much. I know it’s a work bench and will get beaten up but I try and look after things if I can for longevity. 
I’m pretty pleased with it but as time goes on, I’m sure I’ll find things I may have done differently if I ever made another one…..that’s all part of the fun!!


----------



## TRITON

I'm intending doing one myself, but cutting the UJK board into 3 sections. Which I'll inter-space with mdf, so you get at one end a ujk bit of board with 3 groups of holes in it., then plain mdf, then a middle ujk section with 5 hole, then another plain mdf, then the last ujk section with 3 holes.
Effectively I would have an 8' long bench,made up of 5 sections.

Im thinking of doing it that way so i can support long(8') components and spread out the supports., rather than having to buy 2 lengths of the ujk mft board which would be near 300 quid.

I know it sounds a bit weird way of doing then, but thats me  It should be no problem keeping it all in line and true, so long as when i initially lay them out I use the widest mtf board for reference.

Also by having plain sections, those I can work on and they are easily replaced without having to go to the bother of drilling holes in the replacement or shelling out for mtf board itself.


----------



## Blister

Fleabit104 said:


> My first ever post (hopefully uploaded correctly???)! and really enjoying reading the threads and getting advice…Finally finished making my MFT table after years of working on a trestle style bench. The difference it has made has been unbelievable. Wish I had done it sooner.


Super Job, and boy what a workshop


----------



## Stigmorgan

Almost broke my fingers trying to sand the inside of this one so gave up and left it semi rough, outside was sanded to 320 and finished with teak oil.
Sycamore crotch, side grain live edge bowl type of thing


----------



## alex robinson

Stigmorgan said:


> Almost broke my fingers trying to sand the inside of this one so gave up and left it semi rough, outside was sanded to 320 and finished with teak oil.
> Sycamore crotch, side grain live edge bowl type of thing
> View attachment 138151
> View attachment 138152
> View attachment 138153
> View attachment 138154
> View attachment 138155
> View attachment 138156


Beautiful, but definitely looks a bit bitey! Have you tried scruff balls for sanding the inside of things? I find they are quite good. Not as effective as a drill mounted sanding pad, but great for curves and none of the problems with edges. I get them from zoro.


----------



## Stigmorgan

alex robinson said:


> Beautiful, but definitely looks a bit bitey! Have you tried scruff balls for sanding the inside of things? I find they are quite good. Not as effective as a drill mounted sanding pad, but great for curves and none of the problems with edges. I get them from zoro.


Thanks, the shape of it meant it grabbed and twisted my wrist, dont need to make that mistake twice to learn it was a bad idea, will look into the scruffballs


----------



## Garno

Stigmorgan said:


> Thanks, the shape of it meant it grabbed and twisted my wrist, dont need to make that mistake twice to learn it was a bad idea, will look into the scruffballs



Get yourself one of these, apparently they are well worth the money Bowl Sander


----------



## Stigmorgan

Garno said:


> Get yourself one of these, apparently they are well worth the money Bowl Sander


Thats on my wishlist


----------



## Henniep

alex robinson said:


> Beautiful, but definitely looks a bit bitey! Have you tried scruff balls for sanding the inside of things? I find they are quite good. Not as effective as a drill mounted sanding pad, but great for curves and none of the problems with edges. I get them from zoro.


Hi Alex. What are scruff balls. From South Africa and haven't heard of them/it here.


----------



## Lefley

Garno said:


> Get yourself one of these, apparently they are well worth the money Bowl Sander


Or for us lazy guys get an air powered 2 inch sander! They are the cats ass,! Or is it the bees knees in England, Or “the dogs b-ollocks “ !


----------



## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> Almost broke my fingers trying to sand the inside of this one so gave up and left it semi rough, outside was sanded to 320 and finished with teak oil.
> Sycamore crotch, side grain live edge bowl type of thing
> View attachment 138151
> View attachment 138152
> View attachment 138153
> View attachment 138154
> View attachment 138155
> View attachment 138156


do I dare ask if you have a name for your shop buddy. ? Lol.


----------



## alex robinson

Henniep said:


> Hi Alex. What are scruff balls. From South Africa and haven't heard of them/it here.


Hi Henniep, they are a sort of non-woven abrasive ball to use in a drill. Not as powerful as sanding disk, but great for getting into difficult concave shapes. Good for sanding while leaving the underlying shape the same. I got them from here: https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/power-t...KCWSBf_toppDDuVT0oIOpC6ykgnhH1MsaAmXmEALw_wcB


----------



## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> do I dare ask if you have a name for your shop buddy. ? Lol.


I have a brand and logo but dont have a sales site if that's what you mean, I have Instagram for showing off @h1ddenbynature.


----------



## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> I have a brand and logo but dont have a sales site if that's what you mean, I have Instagram for showing off @h1ddenbynature.


Lol. No I’m talking bout your shop buddy. Is she named Isabella?, Shirley? Cmon now, you must have a name for her!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> Lol. No I’m talking bout your shop buddy. Is she named Isabella?, Shirley? Cmon now, you must have a name for her!


Ahhhh, that's Jason Todd (you'll have to be a Batman fan to know who that is) he has been introduced before, he wears my face shield etc when I'm not using it


----------



## Stigmorgan

Aaaaaaand another podlet today, had to go a lot slower than usual as this piece has dried out a bit at the end I used and was a little punky so took a very gentle touch and left the top a little thicker than I would have liked but overall I'm happy with it, only sanded it to 80g as I like these to have a little texture to them.


----------



## Henniep

alex robinson said:


> Hi Henniep, they are a sort of non-woven abrasive ball to use in a drill. Not as powerful as sanding disk, but great for getting into difficult concave shapes. Good for sanding while leaving the underlying shape the same. I got them from here: https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/power-tools/scruff-balls/75mm-brown-coarse-scruff-ball/p/ZT1025924X?utm_source=google&utm_campaign=pla+|+Power Tools&utm_term=ZT1025924X&utm_medium=pla_css_4&targetid=pla-293946777986&loc_physical_ms=1007190&dev=m&gclid=Cj0KCQjwntCVBhDdARIsAMEwACk-Um3oCuncd5Ugy2nx3ybKCWSBf_toppDDuVT0oIOpC6ykgnhH1MsaAmXmEALw_wcB


Thanks Alex!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Made 2 creations and 1 jigsaw puzzle today, a spalted sycamore bowl, outside finished with hardware, inside and rim with walnut oil. Decided to then turn a podlet from silver birch but just as I was finishing the base my tool rest came loos and smashed into the top shattering it  once I calmed down I took a piece of willow and made a podlet from that, the bark flew off but the little points from branches that never got to grow are still in place and make it look really cool, I sanded it at 80g only and have left it unfinished for now, once it dries I'll add an oil finish.


----------



## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> Ahhhh, that's Jason Todd (you'll have to be a Batman fan to know who that is) he has been introduced before, he wears my face shield etc when I'm not using it


The infamous Jason Peter Todd!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> The infamous Jason Peter Todd!


Thats him, also known as the Arkham Knight


----------



## Lefley

Thats him, also known as the Arkham Knight 


Stigmorgan said:


> View attachment 138345
> View attachment 138346


Now if that’s your woodturning helmet, I’m really jealous!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> Thats him, also known as the Arkham Knight
> 
> Now if that’s your woodturning helmet, I’m really jealous!


Not for what paid for it  I really need to get the cosplay finished so I can wear it to comicon.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Really wanted to make a willow podlet complete with bark edge so I put another piece on and once I had the inside done I wrapped the end in tape to see if that would hold it in place and I'm very happy to say it worked perfectly followed by nervously removing the tape hoping the bark didn't come off with it.


----------



## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> Really wanted to make a willow podlet complete with bark edge so I put another piece on and once I had the inside done I wrapped the end in tape to see if that would hold it in place and I'm very happy to say it worked perfectly followed by nervously removing the tape hoping the bark didn't come off with it.
> View attachment 138357
> View attachment 138358
> View attachment 138359
> View attachment 138360
> View attachment 138361


Do you squirt a bit of ultra liquid ca glue around bark line while you turn? I find it will hold bark on a lot better then just hoping it holds?


----------



## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> Do you squirt a bit of ultra liquid ca glue around bark line while you turn? I find it will hold bark on a lot better then just hoping it holds?


I have considered that but worry how the glue will affect the warping as it dries and dont want it to run and stain the wood, although willow seems to want to split rather than warp. Have noticed that even when fairly thick (5mm) it allows quite a lot of light through it, could make a decent lampshade


----------



## Padster

Something I made yesterday.... @Stigmorgan not sure how we managed to come up with almost identical pots I hadn't seen yours! I believe mine was spalted beech so different wood ;-)















Regards

Padster


----------



## eaglesalz

Just finished this, a bit of a change from making tables


----------



## Jameshow

Very nice 

I made one in North Wales 10 years ago, I wonder what happened to it!!


----------



## Flynnwood

Jameshow said:


> Very nice
> 
> I made one in North Wales 10 years ago, I wonder what happened to it!!


It got painted grey and sold for £25K ?? 
Here.


----------



## clogs

fleabit104,
ur bench is very nice but when I was young the skilled blokes said it's when u make ur 3rd bench do u get it right...


----------



## Stigmorgan

Padster said:


> Something I made yesterday.... @Stigmorgan not sure how we managed to come up with almost identical pots I hadn't seen yours! I believe mine was spalted beech so different wood ;-)
> 
> View attachment 138366
> View attachment 138367
> View attachment 138368
> View attachment 138369
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster


They say great minds think alike


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Padster said:


> Something I made yesterday.... @Stigmorgan not sure how we managed to come up with almost identical pots I hadn't seen yours! I believe mine was spalted beech so different wood ;-)
> 
> View attachment 138366
> View attachment 138367
> View attachment 138368
> View attachment 138369
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster


Your beech is oak.


----------



## Chris_Pallet

Drinks table made with pallet blocks.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Been looking at a crotch piece of Hawthorn for ages, wasn't sure it would turn as it had cracks all over the place but today I felt daring so decided to put it between centres and round it off, once rounded the cracks weren't so bad so I turned a tenon and got to work. Sanding was a painful nightmare but I got there and finished it with walnut oil, I absolutely love the warm glow Hawthorn gets when finished.


----------



## David with splinters

Enclosure for my 3D printer


----------



## David with splinters

My daughter is partially sighted and struggles to see where surfaces start and finish. It’s a problem when she’s cooking because she sometimes puts hot saucepans down a bit hard and splashes herself. Quite dangerous. There are various cooking aids you can buy from the RNIB and others but they’re pretty ugly so I have been experimenting with different colours and shapes to help her boundary definition. These trivets really work well and look pretty nice to. Not all disability aids need to look clunky and horrible.

took bloomin ages to make though!


----------



## David with splinters

Here’s my workbench. Beech with dowelled joints and darkwood inlay. I’ve another vice going spare if anyone might be interested.


----------



## gog64

David with splinters said:


> My daughter is partially sighted and struggles to see where surfaces start and finish. It’s a problem when she’s cooking because she sometimes puts hot saucepans down a bit hard and splashes herself. Quite dangerous. There are various cooking aids you can buy from the RNIB and others but they’re pretty ugly so I have been experimenting with different colours and shapes to help her boundary definition. These trivets really work well and look pretty nice to. Not all disability aids need to look clunky and horrible.
> 
> took bloomin ages to make though!



Very nice, I can see there’s a lot of work involved. A real labour of love!


----------



## gog64

Stigmorgan said:


> Been looking at a crotch piece of Hawthorn for ages…



Good on you Stig, you’re clearly a man who’s up for a challenge! IMO your work is getting better and better.


----------



## gog64

David with splinters said:


> Here’s my workbench. Beech with dowelled joints and darkwood inlay. I’ve another vice going spare if anyone might be interested.



That’s fantastic, but I’d be terrified to use it! Most of my recent “woodwork” has either been templates that have ended up very charred or has involved very many nails fired out of a gun. I suspect we’re at different ends of the woodworking spectrum!


----------



## Jameshow

Nicest piece of pallet furniture I've seen for a long time!!


----------



## Fred48

Padster said:


> Something I made yesterday.... @Stigmorgan not sure how we managed to come up with almost identical pots I hadn't seen yours! I believe mine was spalted beech so different wood ;-)
> 
> View attachment 138366
> View attachment 138367
> View attachment 138368
> View attachment 138369
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster


beautiful bowl. Possibly Brown oak? and not beech.
Fred


----------



## Padster

Thought it was time for another pen, this is called a cyclone....










Regards

Padster


----------



## Sirenity

David with splinters said:


> My daughter is partially sighted and struggles to see where surfaces start and finish. It’s a problem when she’s cooking because she sometimes puts hot saucepans down a bit hard and splashes herself. Quite dangerous. There are various cooking aids you can buy from the RNIB and others but they’re pretty ugly so I have been experimenting with different colours and shapes to help her boundary definition. These trivets really work well and look pretty nice to. Not all disability aids need to look clunky and horrible.
> 
> took bloomin ages to make though!


Wow blooming beautiful. As a person with a disability I can’t agree more heartily re the asthetics of aids. I went a long time without bath handrails until I found some beautiful ones. 
I’m about to mod my new wheelchair, I wouldn’t drive wheels that looked ugly on the road, why do so on the pavement?


----------



## Fitzroy

Padster said:


> Something I made yesterday.... @Stigmorgan not sure how we managed to come up with almost identical pots I hadn't seen yours! I believe mine was spalted beech so different wood ;-)
> 
> View attachment 138366
> View attachment 138367
> View attachment 138368
> View attachment 138369
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster


Lovely pot but think it's oak rather than beech.

edit: Fred beat me to it, just playing catch up on the forum.


----------



## dzj

Repaired and refinished some bentwood chairs.
(Before/ after)


----------



## Jameshow

dzj said:


> Repaired and refinished some bentwood chairs.
> (Before/ after)
> 
> View attachment 138517
> 
> View attachment 138518


Very nice! 

What prep / finish did you use? 

Cheers James


----------



## dzj

Jameshow said:


> Very nice!
> 
> What prep / finish did you use?
> 
> Cheers James


I'm guessing the original finish was BLO/ shellac... something of that sort.
It was easy to remove with a card scraper, particularly as it was non existent in many places.
And the parts were all disassembled easily and that made sanding very simple.
I was egging on the clients towards a similar finish, but they wouldn't be persuaded.
I ended up using a usual sanding sealer/ dye/ matt PU varnish.
The sealer and varnish I sprayed, while the dye was wiped on with a rag.


----------



## Sandyn

I've seen wooden guides, but this was another useful design on the 3D printer. I made a set of guides for sharpening my planer blades. I couldn't be bothered waiting years to print the maximum size on my printer, so I just tried 3off 10mm thick guides. I wasn't sure if they would be rigid enough, but it worked a lot better than I thought. I normally just hand sharpen on a diamond plate, but the clamp made it so much easier to take more material off where the blade is damaged. The blades now leave a lovely finish on the wood, so very pleased. I have blades with 40 deg. and 30 deg. angles, so I can make any angle I want. I could also put a micro bevel on the blade by using a different angle.


----------



## RINK123

paulrbarnard said:


> What are the snowmen made of?


wood


----------



## RINK123

RINK123 said:


> Xmas Time


Yew Tree snow men


----------



## RINK123

paulrbarnard said:


> What are the snowmen made of?


Yew Tree


----------



## paulrbarnard

RINK123 said:


> Yew Tree


What have you finished it with. Almost looks like they were moulded from sand.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Oak trophy on a cherry base for our recently departed pup.


----------



## richarddownunder

Knife and block for my son's birthday. Flat ground 12C27 steel, G10 scales. Used the laser engraver at the local 'makerspace' for the logo in the wood.

Cheers
Richard


----------



## clogs

Stig,
nice effort....hope things are setteling down a little...
isthat laminate for a job or cardboard under the blue box....?
also lets see a bit more of the table/bench with the turned pots pls...just the turnings...


----------



## Stigmorgan

clogs said:


> Stig,
> nice effort....hope things are setteling down a little...
> isthat laminate for a job or cardboard under the blue box....?
> also lets see a bit more of the table/bench with the turned pots pls...just the turnings...


Those are cardboard boxes, I found a guy on gumtree selling 60 of them for £10 so I snapped them up, a lot of my turnings fit in them so use them when I sell stuff.
Thats actually the corner of my livingroom on top of the dog crate, stuff tends to get put there until we find somewhere to put it. As today is payday most of those pots and my podlets will be going into the staffroom tomorrow for the teachers and TAs to buy.




This is my podlet shelf in my makerspace, there's a few more on there now


----------



## Thingybob

Stigmorgan said:


> Those are cardboard boxes, I found a guy on gumtree selling 60 of them for £10 so I snapped them up, a lot of my turnings fit in them so use them when I sell stuff.
> Thats actually the corner of my livingroom on top of the dog crate, stuff tends to get put there until we find somewhere to put it. As today is payday most of those pots and my podlets will be going into the staffroom tomorrow for the teachers and TAs to buy.
> View attachment 138673
> 
> This is my podlet shelf in my makerspace, there's a few more on there now


I see all your investments are kept in a special place chalisis and gas meter ( posh begger)


----------



## Stigmorgan

Thingybob said:


> I see all your investments are kept in a special place chalisis and gas meter ( posh begger)


The podlets are in the garage because I want them to distort, the bowls, plates etc get brought into the house, the gas meter is on the back wall of the garage because my supply and the school supply split at that point so school gas meter is to the right of mine.


----------



## David with splinters

richarddownunder said:


> Knife and block for my son's birthday. Flat ground 12C27 steel, G10 scales. Used the laser engraver at the local 'makerspace' for the logo in the wood.
> 
> Cheers
> Richard


Richard, that’s really well designed and made. Right up my street that is. Beautiful.


----------



## OCtoolguy

Cooper said:


> Stigmorgan, I'm fascinated by your pieces, looking at them you must generate an awful lot of shavings. What do you do with it all?
> 
> Martin


I'm not sure I understand your question. Everything I make is done with a scroll saw. I do use a router on some things but most of is just scroll sawn.


----------



## Stigmorgan

OCtoolguy said:


> I'm not sure I understand your question. Everything I make is done with a scroll saw. I do use a router on some things but most of is just scroll sawn.


The question was aimed at me regarding what I do with all my woodshavings from woodturning


----------



## D_W

Last weekend, I made a pair of tapered irons, just freehand ground like the older ones were - but starting with bar stock. they are O1, tempered around 61/62 hardness and ground from about .1 on the thin end to .18 or so on the fat end.

the backs have a little bit of curvature in them like the old irons did, to ensure that the iron beds on the right part of the plane bed even with minor wear or seasonal movement.

They're for wooden planes, but will work in infills. I'm not aware of anyone grinding this curvature into wooden plane irons now - japanese may still have some geometric bias in them, but I mean western makers. I don't expect anyone will. It takes about 45 minutes to grind one of these down freehand, cut the slot and get it in heat treatment.

last picture is the reflectivity of the beech board being planed- the same edge sitting under the infill plane and then a reflection of the individual LEDs from above. It's nice to test clarity of the initial edge even though it's been pretty harshly ground and then see if the edge develops any defects in planing or if it will leave a nice clear surface even though the edge could use a little more refinement.


----------



## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)

I built this drawer in memory of David Charlesworth ...






It wasn't even finished here. I was in the middle of another project when Nick Gibbs, editor of Quercus Magazine, asked for an article on David. I wrote two. As did a number of others. All in the current edition ...






Regards from Perth

Derek


----------



## Stigmorgan

Oak crotch with some amazing grain, couldn't get all the tool marks out from the inside so decided to live with them, finished with linseed oil.


----------



## clogs

Stigmorgan....
intested to know what lathe that is pls...


----------



## Stigmorgan

clogs said:


> Stigmorgan....
> intested to know what lathe that is pls...


Record Power, I picked it up off of gumtree for £30, it had been stored in a barn for a few years but only needed a good clean, it's a nice machine.


----------



## dzj

A record player stand and a knick-knack shelf.
Not my design, client's gonna do the finish.


----------



## Fanous

Did a little corner shelf on the wall, mostly softwoods of some kind (think there are 3 different species?)


----------



## Marcusthehat

My first contribution.
A decrepit hatstand.
Bent and twisted in parts, especially one leg, just like me.
A work of love for the daughter.
Made a couple of scrapers from an old hoarded Bacho hardpoint saw blade.
Had to make the base since it was missing.
Used salvaged and hoarded for 25 years brass screws.
Finished with Osmo.
Marcus, the hat.


----------



## Marcusthehat

My first contribution.
A decrepit hatstand.
Bent and twisted in parts, especially one leg, just like me.
A work of love for the daughter.
Made a couple of scrapers from an old hoarded Bacho hardpoint saw blade.
Had to make the base since it was missing.
Used salvaged and hoarded for 25 years brass screws.
Finished with Osmo.
EDIT:
To add, the first coat of Osmo had just been applied in the att. image of the new base.
And, I just remembered I refused to take an old hot cylinder to the scrappie when scrap copper was stupid high, so I intend to unroll it and form a tray to fit inside the base to catch the non existent drips from the non existent umbrellas. 
Fingers crossed.
Marcus, the hat


----------



## giantbeat

12" x 7 snare drum, 9ply's of Purpleheart


----------



## Marcusthehat

That is a stunning colour.


----------



## isaac3d

OMG... not more cutting boards? 
Two cutting/presentation boards I just made for a relative and a friend. I just love to watch them pop when the oil goes on!
Middle panel is cherry, then padauk sandwiched between beech (the contrast between cherry and beech is not as great as I'd have liked but you can see it more clearly in the flesh!), then utile, then another beech/padauk sandwich and finally, American black walnut.







( I see I turned both boards 180 degrees in the oiled photo; silly billy )


----------



## Hornbeam

After 20 years of less than ideal tool storage decided it was time for a new cabinet and sharpening area
Made from oak and oak veneered birch ply left over from a new kitchen 1300mm wide X 500mm deep
The top is standard kitchen work top lipped all round with oak. I ebonised the lipping as I know it will get steel dust on it from grindingg and go black anyway
The legs are actually beech with 6mm oak cladding all round as I didnt have any large enough section. This did allow me to book match the grain on both legs
Drawer are just the right length for rasps and paring chisels (until I buy one that 1/2cm too long)


----------



## gog64

Strictly speaking, not woodworking, but the first try out of the new firepit this evening. I made it from 4mm plate steel, so it’s not going to blow away. Burning offcuts from some live edge cladding I was installing. Lawson Cypress, smells fantastic.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Shame it goes brown.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Marcusthehat said:


> That is a stunning colour.


Shame it goes brown.


----------



## giantbeat

Phil Pascoe said:


> Shame it goes brown.


It does but very slowly in our experience, I bleach the wood before finish which brightens It considerably, then it’s goes straight in for spraying with matte 2k auto finish, I made stave shells over 5 years ago that are still very purple going by the pics I have seen from the owners.


----------



## Stigmorgan

3 squares of PE bench laminated together and turned into a bowl, can't say I particularly like this one but I'm sure someone will, it does have some funky green colouration.


----------



## throbscottle

When I appealed for some wood to make a couple benches out of, someone gave me a broken wardrobe, and I used it (and a couple of mdf kitchen bits) to make this bench for my electronics lab, though I really don't like chipboard it's all that was needed and worked well. I made the wardrobe base into the wall support and the underneath layer of the bench top - it has some supporting rails attached to what would have been the bottom, so I tried to incorporate those where they could add some strength, though looking over the photos I think it got a bit silly at the back there!. I filled the edges of the chipboard with good old Polyfilla - far from ideal but at least it's smooth. The round thing is the leg holder (the leg's made from a bit of stair-rail someone gave me). The big holes are for cable management - I'm going to attach some sockets to the upright bit. It looks a bit high because it is - I use a stool for seating. It needs stiffening along the front - luckily someone gave me some long bits of timber I can use. Now I really need to change that paint...
Next up, heavy bench for the garage! Proving a bit more challenging...


----------



## NickDReed

Small cherry bowl. Foraged a lump from a rotten tree that took out a neighbours fence.


----------



## Stigmorgan

NickDReed said:


> Small cherry bowl. Foraged a lump from a rotten tree that took out a neighbours fence.
> 
> View attachment 139035
> View attachment 139036
> View attachment 139037


That is stunning


----------



## Essex Barn Workshop

Not a complex project, but a bit of fun to sit on my market stall!


----------



## jim1950

make this hat block for a friend, 23'' in dia. just under 4'' thick ended up weighing 6.4 kilo


----------



## Fanous

Made a shoerack, with some storage under the walnut lid. Well happy with it, and it fits!


----------



## Fanous




----------



## Jester129

@jim1950  - sorry to ask, but what is a hat block please?


----------



## jim1950

Jester129 said:


> @jim1950  - sorry to ask, but what is a hat block please?


Hi it's for making hats on, the material is placed on the block and then steamed to form the shape


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Made a small box for a friend who's dad tragically passed away fairly recently.
It's to keep the ashes in.

The mountain scene on top is based on an area of Glencoe which he loved and was cnc engraved then filled with resin.

Tiger/Brown Oak and European Oak.


----------



## Cooper

blackteaonesugar said:


> Made a small box for a friend who's dad tragically passed away


A nice box and very thoughtful of you.

Is it mitered with the pegs, in the last picture, holding the corners together. I've used dovetail wedging with veneers to reinforce a miter but not pegs. The pegs look interesting in their own right, its a shame that they needed to be trimmed.
Martin


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Yes, just a simple Mitre with little pegs that really just meet inside the Mitre.
They're a bit too subtle really. Thought they'd stand out a little more but they disappear.


----------



## thetyreman

isaac3d said:


> OMG... not more cutting boards?
> Two cutting/presentation boards I just made for a relative and a friend. I just love to watch them pop when the oil goes on!
> Middle panel is cherry, then padauk sandwiched between beech (the contrast between cherry and beech is not as great as I'd have liked but you can see it more clearly in the flesh!), then utile, then another beech/padauk sandwich and finally, American black walnut.
> 
> 
> View attachment 138942
> 
> ( I see I turned both boards 180 degrees in the oiled photo; silly billy )


really nice colour combinations!


----------



## yan89

kinverkid said:


> I made this for my wife's nephew and his partner. They are having their first baby later in the year. It does need one more rub-down and final coat but I just thought I would take the photographs while the sun was out. It's made from reclaimed brand new oak kitchen cabinet doors which were never installed at my friends house and a couple of long pieces I had lying around. An 800x400x50mm mattress is on order.
> I followed the plans provided in Woodworking Projects but I understand the same plans have been printed by other magazines too.View attachment 116642
> View attachment 116643
> View attachment 116644


Just seen this - really great work! I’ve tried searching for a book titled ‘woodworking projects’ but can’t find any.. do you have the author’s name by any chance?

Thanks very much in advance


----------



## Stigmorgan

A piece of walnut gifted to me by our tree surgeon has been sat on my shelf for a few months now and today it called to me so I found a centre and took it to the bandsaw the split between solid and softer light wood kept this one out of balance the whole time but I managed to get clean enough cuts that any minor marks left behind were easily sanded out, finished with abrasive wax then diamond hard wax, absolutely in love with this one.


----------



## Kayen

blackteaonesugar said:


> Yes, just a simple Mitre with little pegs that really just meet inside the Mitre.
> They're a bit too subtle really. Thought they'd stand out a little more but they disappear.


I think the whole piece is subtle and understated - which is why it is SO beautiful


----------



## Garno

Stigmorgan said:


> A piece of walnut gifted to me by our tree surgeon has been sat on my shelf for a few months now and today it called to me so I found a centre and took it to the bandsaw the split between solid and softer light wood kept this one out of balance the whole time but I managed to get clean enough cuts that any minor marks left behind were easily sanded out, finished with abrasive wax then diamond hard wax, absolutely in love with this one.
> View attachment 139218
> View attachment 139219
> View attachment 139220
> View attachment 139221
> View attachment 139222
> View attachment 139223
> View attachment 139224
> View attachment 139225
> View attachment 139226




Plenty of character in it mate, looks good


----------



## Stigmorgan

Garno said:


> Plenty of character in it mate, looks good


Thanks G, I spent ages trying to decide where to put centre so that I could keep the two tone colouration and not be too small, the offcut is just about big enough to make a small pot so may have a go at that next


----------



## Bob Chapman

Stig that's a lovely bowl and beautifully finished but tell me...is that you, standing behind the lathe with nothing on? Is this an advertising ploy - the Naked Woodturner?


----------



## isaac3d

Stigmorgan said:


> A piece of walnut gifted to me by our tree surgeon has been sat on my shelf for a few months now and today it called to me so I found a centre and took it to the bandsaw the split between solid and softer light wood kept this one out of balance the whole time but I managed to get clean enough cuts that any minor marks left behind were easily sanded out, finished with abrasive wax then diamond hard wax, absolutely in love with this one.
> View attachment 139218
> View attachment 139219
> View attachment 139220
> View attachment 139221
> View attachment 139222
> View attachment 139223
> View attachment 139224
> View attachment 139225
> View attachment 139226


Spectacular grain and colour. Very nice work. Makes me want to try turning; pity I have no space for a lathe.
PS: does the chap in the background have a name?


----------



## Stigmorgan

@isaac3d @Bob Chapman that's Jason Todd he has been introduced several times previously  he refuses to wear anything but a face mask when in the makerspace 





When he's not helping in the makerspace he is modelling my Arkham Knight cosplay while I work on it


----------



## TomW

For my dad's birthday, lot of scroll work and lots of mistakes but it came out ok for the most part.


----------



## OCtoolguy

Stigmorgan said:


> The question was aimed at me regarding what I do with all my woodshavings from woodturning


Thanks, I didn't understand the post so I answered. This site is sort of confusing as to who is talking to who.


----------



## NickDReed

Stigmorgan said:


> @isaac3d @Bob Chapman that's Jason Todd he has been introduced several times previously  he refuses to wear anything but a face mask when in the makerspace
> View attachment 139269
> 
> 
> When he's not helping in the makerspace he is modelling my Arkham Knight cosplay while I work on it
> View attachment 139271


I feel this needs reporting for gratuitous nudity. 

I'm appalled


----------



## isaac3d

Nothing wrong with a bit of gratuitous nudity now and again.


----------



## Shan

Stigmorgan said:


> A piece of walnut gifted to me by our tree surgeon has been sat on my shelf for a few months now and today it called to me so I found a centre and took it to the bandsaw the split between solid and softer light wood kept this one out of balance the whole time but I managed to get clean enough cuts that any minor marks left behind were easily sanded out, finished with abrasive wax then diamond hard wax, absolutely in love with this one.
> View attachment 139218
> View attachment 139219
> View attachment 139220
> View attachment 139221
> View attachment 139222
> View attachment 139223
> View attachment 139224
> View attachment 139225
> View attachment 139226


Stig, looks really nice and specially like the finish and the rings that you cut in the bottom. Nice touch. What did Jason think of it?


----------



## Stigmorgan

Shan said:


> Stig, looks really nice and specially like the finish and the rings that you cut in the bottom. Nice touch. What did Jason think of it?


Ahh he's my biggest critic, he thinks I should have tried for a higher sheen with a couple more coats of wax


----------



## NickDReed

Apparently we needed one of these! A bath tray.... We have used the bath twice in 18 months.....i think she just wants to put a plant on it if I'm honest. 

Made from old oak decking boards I bought of eBay. Hard wax oil finish.


----------



## mikej460

NickDReed said:


> Apparently we needed one of these! A bath tray.... We have used the bath twice in 18 months.....i think she just wants to put a plant on it if I'm honest.
> 
> Made from old oak decking boards I bought of eBay. Hard wax oil finish.
> 
> View attachment 139373
> View attachment 139375


maybe she's trying to tell you something..


----------



## NickDReed

mikej460 said:


> maybe she's trying to tell you something..


That I should continue to drink even when bathing?


----------



## isaac3d

I like the book holder. That was always the issue with reading in the bath; the book would get wet or my arms would get tired. Singing in the shower is a good alternative.


----------



## Phill05

NickDReed said:


> Apparently we needed one of these! A bath tray.... We have used the bath twice in 18 months.....i think she just wants to put a plant on it if I'm honest.
> 
> Made from old oak decking boards I bought of eBay. Hard wax oil finish.
> 
> View attachment 139373
> View attachment 139375



You have me intrigued now, nice work by the way but I have to ask would you not forget what page you last read 18 months ago? and what is the slot and hole for please?


----------



## Thingybob

Phill05 said:


> You have me intrigued now, nice work by the way but I have to ask would you not forget what page you last read 18 months ago? and what is the slot and hole for please?


Have you never had a glass of plonk in the bath or smoked yer pipe


----------



## Phill05

Thingybob said:


> Have you never had a glass of plonk in the bath or smoked yer pipe


I have to admit I never have what else have I been missing out on.


----------



## Doug71

Wardrobe for a very small bedroom (1.85m x 2.4m) and fold down desk, bit of a budget build.

You can see the wall steps back about 300mm at the top so used this area for full depth hanging space.







Got to love MDF






















Plinth to go around the bottom yet.

Got a bed with drawers under to make next as they have bought a slightly shorter than normal mattress (1.8m) as a standard mattress is just too long to fit between the walls.


----------



## NickDReed

Phill05 said:


> I have to admit I never have what else have I been missing out on.


I'm going to build a version for me with a larger hole for a can!


----------



## NickDReed

isaac3d said:


> I like the book holder. That was always the issue with reading in the bath; the book would get wet or my arms would get tired. Singing in the shower is a good alternative.


I imagine it'll be a phone on it most of the time rather than a book. But whatever stops her singing......


----------



## Stigmorgan

Had the whole afternoon in the makerspace today so produced 2 little creations, firstly a little paperweight with dish for paperclips turned from the offcut of walnut from my previous creation sanded to 320 then abrasive paste and wax, 
















and then I cut a piece of spalted Sycamore and made a chunky walled deep bowl sanded to 320 and finished with walnut oil.


----------



## NickDReed

Not much of anything, but had an hour while she watched that poo on itv 2. So made her a tealight holder out of some Ash I aquired on a holiday to the lakes earlier this year.


----------



## Doug71

Doors under some stairs to make storage space, will be painted.

Framing in place






Made doors in workshop






And fitted


----------



## Fanous

Any shelving inside?


----------



## Doug71

Fanous said:


> Any shelving inside?



No shelving. The original quote I gave them had shelving/dividers etc but they were on a bit of a budget so just went with a hanging rail behind the tall doors and used a chest of drawers they had behind the second pair of doors, it actually worked quite well.

They did splash out on some nice knobs from "From the Anvil", I often give customers one of their catalogues to look through for ideas and they normally end up ordering stuff out of it. Not cheap but really nice quality and I do think quality ironmongery makes a big difference.


----------



## Padster

Something a little different, never tried a green man before. I take my flex cut tools away with me on hols, this took me two hols but only doing it sporadically when we had nothing planned or the girls were just chilling - I finished with Danish oil this week when we got back.












Padster


----------



## rafezetter

Stigmorgan said:


> A piece of walnut gifted to me by our tree surgeon has been sat on my shelf for a few months now and today it called to me so I found a centre and took it to the bandsaw the split between solid and softer light wood kept this one out of balance the whole time but I managed to get clean enough cuts that any minor marks left behind were easily sanded out, finished with abrasive wax then diamond hard wax, absolutely in love with this one.
> View attachment 139218
> View attachment 139219
> View attachment 139220
> View attachment 139221
> View attachment 139222
> View attachment 139223
> View attachment 139224
> View attachment 139225
> View attachment 139226


 Lovely bowl and thanks for the judiciously placed tailstock, though I'm wondering why you thought it necessary to strip for the photo's?


----------



## Stigmorgan

rafezetter said:


> Lovely bowl and thanks for the judiciously placed tailstock, though I'm wondering why you thought it necessary to strip for the photo's?


It's fine, there's nothing to see behind there


----------



## Jameshow

Padster said:


> Something a little different, never tried a green man before. I take my flex cut tools away with me on hols, this took me two hols but only doing it sporadically when we had nothing planned or the girls were just chilling - I finished with Danish oil this week when we got back.
> 
> View attachment 139584
> View attachment 139585
> View attachment 139586
> 
> 
> Padster


Lovely 

Are the flexcut tools the best starter option? 

Or these narex?









Narex 'Start' Carving Chisel Set


Narex 'Start' Carving Chisel Set. Buy Narex at Workshop Heaven. We offer useful advice, friendly service, next day delivery and lifetime guarantee.




www.workshopheaven.com





Or these 









Jackson's : Premium Wood Cut Knife : Set of 6


This set of 6 Premium Wood Cut Knives have rounded wooden handles and are ideal for wood cutting. With a range of different blades they will enable you to create a variety of effects and textures.




www.jacksonsart.com


----------



## Padster

Jameshow said:


> Lovely
> 
> Are the flexcut tools the best starter option?
> 
> Or these narex?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Narex 'Start' Carving Chisel Set
> 
> 
> Narex 'Start' Carving Chisel Set. Buy Narex at Workshop Heaven. We offer useful advice, friendly service, next day delivery and lifetime guarantee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.workshopheaven.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jackson's : Premium Wood Cut Knife : Set of 6
> 
> 
> This set of 6 Premium Wood Cut Knives have rounded wooden handles and are ideal for wood cutting. With a range of different blades they will enable you to create a variety of effects and textures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.jacksonsart.com


Thanks.. are flexcut the best starter option.... honestly I don't know any different, they are all I've used but research before I bought them seemed to suggest they'd be good, and I like to get the best I can afford and buy once, I also thought because they were 'known' if I didn't take to it I may get a better second hand price...

I started with (and still use) this set... 11 piece starter and also bought strop set to keep the very sharp tools sharp!

Since then I have a few more and even a pocket version that I can take if I don't want to carry all but have an option.

HTH

Padster


----------



## SteL

Had Covid recently so binge watched woodworking videos. Thought I’d have a go at carving a spoon after a Paul Sellers video. 










First time I’ve ever used a gouge and it was quite enjoyable!


----------



## Wood4me

Finally made a little bowl from a piece of Box wood I have had for years , lovely wood to turn.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Couple more creations today, a cake stand from P.E Bench wood for our P.E teacher who is leaving and a Sycamore vase for another teacher who is retiring


----------



## NickVanBeest

While visiting friends, we had to remove a broken branch from a pine tree, and I noticed a few logs that had some potential...

So dug through the garage and found some tools, and voila!


----------



## Glen___

French cleat holder for my fret saw. 
The clear plastic retainers spin on a bolt and are held open / closed by a couple of small magnets, it works really well.


----------



## Doug B

Ran out some redwood cladding this afternoon 






This is for a garden room I’m building for the GLW, it’s south facing & I wanted something with a good overlap on the t&g & couldn’t find anything at my local merchants I was happy with so ran this out of some sawn redwood







Its 21mm thick & the t&g 15mm deep on the front face so hopefully this will stand up to the baking sun we seem to be getting.


----------



## niall Y

A new, slightly fatter, mandrel, for turning the tubes for some whistles - along with freshly turned tubes in Padauk, Pear and African blackwood.


----------



## Fanous

Hand carved with chisel, about 40mm overall size.


----------



## Fanous

niall Y said:


> A new, slightly fatter, mandrel, for turning the tubes for some whistles - along with freshly turned tubes in Padauk, Pear and African blackwood.


Very nice


----------



## Garno

Fanous said:


> Hand carved with chisel, about 40mm overall size.
> 
> 
> View attachment 139751


 

I imagine that's a lot harder to do than it looks.

Sorry but I have to ask have you managed to get all of the angles correct?
Lovely job.


----------



## Fanous

Garno said:


> I imagine that's a lot harder to do than it looks.
> 
> Sorry but I have to ask have you managed to get all of the angles correct?
> Lovely job.


The first walnut one was not even at all. Learning and all that. I used a compas and tried to create and equadistant triangle where needed, directly on the die. Given there is 20 faces, it was 20 occassions to create a mistake, and it showed.

The second walnut one was much better. As seen on the picture. For this one, I created a triangle teplate from hard plastic - Pringles lid. Took 3 tries to cut out a triangle that actually measured 3 of the same lengths. This template made all the difference. The other thing that's needed to succeed is an angle gauge set to an exact angle (138.2 degrees). With these two things, the last thing you need is a lot of patience. 

The maple one was my third one, and came out the best... Will be making more, from other species.


----------



## Doug71

Bed for a small bedroom (I posted pictures of the wardrobe in the same room about a week ago).

Room is only 1850mm between walls so customer got a shorter than standard mattress and I was asked to make a simple bed with drawers to fit. I was originally just going to put the drawers on castors but after asking the question on here decided it probably wasn't ideal on carpet.

First shot in the workshop with it on the bench to prove I made it


----------



## Jarno

Golden ratio divider, made drawings for a few other variants as well (silver ratio, van der laan). And a equal divider for laying out dovetails.




Here's also the equal divider one


----------



## CMax

isaac3d said:


> Nothing wrong with a bit of gratuitous nudity now and again.


The police didn't agree with me when I told them that.


----------



## ArtieFufkin

I have made another guitar over the last few months, some pics below.

A few here may recall I started a thread about planing back in December last year. Well, I'm happy with how that has progressed, I was able to joint the body and plane it very flat, also hand planed the all the wood in the 9 peice neck down to size (except the 0.6mm black laminations). The scalf joint would have been ruthless at exposing any thickness variations, pleased to say it doesn't.


----------



## Jarno

Looks great! Conscious decision to not use a headstock veneer and stain it?


----------



## ArtieFufkin

Jarno said:


> Looks great! Conscious decision to not use a headstock veneer and stain it?


Thanks and yes. Too much time and effort went into the neck and headstock to hide it!


----------



## Orraloon

A great looking guitar and I like the way you have let the wood show through. 
Regards
John


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

Just finished making this bandsaw box for my niece. It’s the final real project in this current workshop before the house sale finally goes through! Outer layer is Oak Burr, centre layers are Ash which is sandwiched by Elm. The handles are made using a red stabilised maple burr, but I didn’t use enough dye in the cactus juice so the blanks ended up rather pink, but perfect here as it’s my niece’s favourite colour. All of the rounded edges were done by hand and lots and lots of hand sanding!


----------



## sawtooth-9

Sawdust=manglitter said:


> Just finished making this bandsaw box for my niece. It’s the final real project in this current workshop before the house sale finally goes through! Outer layer is Oak Burr, centre layers are Ash which is sandwiched by Elm. The handles are made using a red stabilised maple burr, but I didn’t use enough dye in the cactus juice so the blanks ended up rather pink, but perfect here as it’s my niece’s favourite colour. All of the rounded edges were done by hand and lots and lots of hand sanding!
> 
> View attachment 140091
> View attachment 140100
> View attachment 140092
> View attachment 140093
> View attachment 140094
> View attachment 140095
> View attachment 140096
> View attachment 140097
> View attachment 140098
> View attachment 140099


 What a beautiful job. You should be proud of this.
A lovely example of honouring beautiful timbers, with superb craftsmanship.
I would love to have your skill and patience.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Beautiful, but spoiled by the knobs.


----------



## sams93

Just finished making a compact router table for my v small workshop. There are more photos and details in a separate thread here Compact Router Table Build


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

sawtooth-9 said:


> What a beautiful job. You should be proud of this.
> A lovely example of honouring beautiful timbers, with superb craftsmanship.
> I would love to have your skill and patience.


Thanks sawtooth-9. It was a lot of work, but i am pleased with it. Will be giving it to my niece on Sunday.



Phil Pascoe said:


> Beautiful, but spoiled by the knobs.


I know it wont be to everyone’s tastes, it wasnt enough of a contrast for my liking, but it’s my 4yr old niece’s favourite colour so hopefully she’ll like it. If in future when she’s more grown up she would like to swap out the knobs for something different then I will be more than happy to oblige


----------



## Phil Pascoe




----------



## Phil Pascoe

A large 15mm round skew. I made 10mm ones and find them better than flat skews, so went for a bigger one.
Limed oak handle. The grind needs refining. 540mm, 21" long.


----------



## Dr Al

A few months ago, I made a simple handle to make my LA jack plane a bit more comfortable when I'm using it for shooting:






It works really well and has been an almost permanent attachment to my low angle jack plane. However, it has two (arguably rather minor) problems:

Firstly, while it gives the gap between thumb and forefinger something comfortable to push against, it doesn't give the rest of the hand something comfortable to hold on to: you're still gripping the side of the plane.
Secondly, it has to be removed if I want to put the plane away:





I was in a machining mood yesterday so I decided to have a go at making a new version, which I finished this morning.

Here it is in bits:






Another view:






The body and knurled nut are (30 mm diameter) brass; the handle is 303 stainless steel; the pivot screw is EN3B mild steel, the pin is EN1A mild steel (the hole in the end is tapped M2.5 to help pull it out of its hole if required). The flat strip is 1 mm thick aluminium, used to stop the grub screws from damaging the side of the plane.

Partly assembled:






Fully assembled and fitted:






This is what it looks like in use:






Undoing the knurled knob allows the handle to pivot 90°...






... which means the plane now fits on the shelf with the handle attached (and also means the handle doesn't stick out the side of the plane while I'm using the plane for non-shooting stuff):


----------



## Orraloon

I have seen a few home made hot dog handle arrangements but thats the most professional looking one yet.
Regards
John


----------



## Dr Al

Orraloon said:


> I have seen a few home made hot dog handle arrangements but thats the most professional looking one yet.
> Regards
> John


Thanks John


----------



## isaac3d

Phil Pascoe said:


> Beautiful, but spoiled by the knobs.


Perhaps you didn't read the OP's message:
"The handles are made using a red stabilised maple burr, but I didn’t use enough dye in the cactus juice so the blanks ended up rather pink, but perfect here as it’s my niece’s favourite colour."
So, how is "perfect" for the intended recipient "spoiled"?


----------



## Cooper

niall Y said:


> A new, slightly fatter, mandrel, for turning the tubes for some whistles - along with freshly turned tubes in Padauk, Pear and African blackwood.


Most impressive. Some time ago I made several slide whistles and had real difficulty boring the holes straight what is your technique and how is the mandrel used?


----------



## Phil Pascoe

isaac3d said:


> Perhaps you didn't read the OP's message:
> "The handles are made using a red stabilised maple burr, but I didn’t use enough dye in the cactus juice so the blanks ended up rather pink, but perfect here as it’s my niece’s favourite colour."
> So, how is "perfect" for the intended recipient "spoiled"?


I read it perfectly well, thanks, it's still spoiled in my opinion. An opinion to which I am perfectly entitled.

Lucky girl, btw.


----------



## niall Y

Cooper said:


> Most impressive. Some time ago I made several slide whistles and had real difficulty boring the holes straight what is your technique and how is the mandrel used?


Hi there, Cooper,
I use a Record long hole borer, on my lathe, to give me the initial hole of 8mm. I widen this with a 12mm long hole borer that a friend gave me , ( I've not seen these for sale, but they obviously exist because I have one  )
. The bored out tubes are then slipped onto the mandrel, which in turn is fitted between an ER32 collet chuck at the headstock and a live centre at the tailstock of the lathe The outer diameter of the tubes is then turned, which corrects any misalignment of the hole and gives a fairly consistent wall thickness.

The new mandrel shown in my last post is 1/2 inch. This involves widening the 12mm hole with a home-made reamer. For this I used a straight 1/2 inch , double bearing router cutter. As in attached photos. The bottom 1/2 inch bearing has been changed for a 12mm steel bushing, and the shaft has been heat-shrink fitted into a long steel tube. This is used upright in a vice as per photos and gives pretty good results
Niall


----------



## Garno

To keep the old mind ticking over during these prolonged periods in bed I got a 3D printer.

I had a big problem with my first 2 filaments in that they were too brittle to use so had to get some more.

This is my first ever print, it is the Ender dog and comes as a sample.
I am pleased with how it came out, just over 5hours 30 minutes to print.


----------



## Droogs

v nice, pity it has distemper


----------



## Padster

So another something new... This time some secret compartment keyrings, I was using up two offcuts (I know there are three!) ... the leftmost is believe it or not Purpleheart, the right most is teak, the centre one is not really an offcut but my first home made blank, using some left over resin, I added some glitter for sparkle, some red colouring, and a few other small offcuts of wood - have to say very happy with the outcome!






Regards

Padster


----------



## Cooper

niall Y said:


> Hi there, Cooper,
> I use a Record long hole borer, on my lathe, to give me the initial hole of 8mm. I widen this with a 12mm long hole borer that a friend gave me , ( I've not seen these for sale, but they obviously exist because I have one  )
> . The bored out tubes are then slipped onto the mandrel, which in turn is fitted between an ER32 collet chuck at the headstock and a live centre at the tailstock of the lathe The outer diameter of the tubes is then turned, which corrects any misalignment of the hole and gives a fairly consistent wall thickness.
> 
> The new mandrel shown in my last post is 1/2 inch. This involves widening the 12mm hole with a home-made reamer. For this I used a straight 1/2 inch , double bearing router cutter. As in attached photos. The bottom 1/2 inch bearing has been changed for a 12mm steel bushing, and the shaft has been heat-shrink fitted into a long steel tube. This is used upright in a vice as per photos and gives pretty good results
> Niall


Thank you most helpful. I'll look up the Record long hole borer. I bought a set of 30cm wood drill bits off Amazon and they were hopeless. In the end I drilled from both ends and then tried to get them to align with the long bits. 
Some of the slide whistles were more successful than others. I used oak from a tree I felled in our garden and the whistles are nice home grown presents. Its probably not the best wood but it gave a nice tone and the children enjoyed them.
Thanks again
Martin


----------



## Cooper

niall Y said:


> I widen this with a 12mm long hole borer that a friend gave me


Do you have a 12mm hollow centre in your tail stock or do you have one that fits in the saddle? 
Years ago when young I was a wood work teacher I had long augers in my workshop and a hollow centre that fitted in the saddle. Though they weren't 12mm or 1/2" as we only used them for table lamps and precision wasn't particularly important. 
I have a very old graduate lathe that I was allowed to take from a later department, which otherwise would have gone for scrap. None of the kit came with it.


----------



## niall Y

Cooper said:


> Do you have a 12mm hollow centre in your tail stock or do you have one that fits in the saddle?
> Years ago when young I was a wood work teacher I had long augers in my workshop and a hollow centre that fitted in the saddle. Though they weren't 12mm or 1/2" as we only used them for table lamps and precision wasn't particularly important.
> I have a very old graduate lathe that I was allowed to take from a later department, which otherwise would have gone for scrap. None of the kit came with it.


Attached, are a couple of photos of a post for fitting into my lathe's saddle. My lathe is a Union Jubilee, so the 1 inch post will be similar to yours. - Bye the way, you will have to ream out the hole in the post with a Morse taper, but you can do this on your wood lathe, by hand. With the lathe turned off and the reamer in a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock; the drilled-out post can be held transversely in a chuck in the headstock 
I am at present using a metal working lathe, for which I made a a more versatile fitting.
A tenon on the work piece fits into a pillow-block bearing. Behind this are fitted. interchangeable bushings. to suit the hole being drilled. You should be able to cobble together something similar for your wood lathe 
Niall


----------



## Tris

Some good ideas for the 'spare 5 minutes' list there, thanks


----------



## point5clue

This is for my Mum - she needs something she can see from the garden through the conservatory window. The kits are only a few quid and I thought I'd have a go. The timber is a re-sawn 3x2 glued up. Normally I try to make wood a bit darker to pretend its something more fancy, but in this case I used clear water based varnish to keep the light colour for the contrast to the black. The wood is about 9mm thick, but the post for the hands was short so I routed out a few more mil. Basically the same cost as a ready made clock, but kept me out of trouble for an afternoon!


----------



## Cooper

niall Y said:


> Attached, are a couple of photos of a post for fitting into my lathe's saddle. My lathe is a Union Jubilee, so the 1 inch post will be similar to yours. - Bye the way, you will have to ream out the hole in the post with a Morse taper, but you can do this on your wood lathe, by hand. With the lathe turned off and the reamer in a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock; the drilled-out post can be held transversely in a chuck in the headstock
> I am at present using a metal working lathe, for which I made a a more versatile fitting.
> A tenon on the work piece fits into a pillow-block bearing. Behind this are fitted. interchangeable bushings. to suit the hole being drilled. You should be able to cobble together something similar for your wood lathe
> Niall


Thank you most helpful.
Martin


----------



## Garno

I have today printed out my very first ever box for pen kit bushes. All done from my bed.

I have done every part of it myself without having a clue how to use CAD software.

Ideally I would of liked the lid to sit flush but don't know how to do that but I am happy with the result I have, I also will be putting in some hard foam that I will drill 2 holes into so that I can push the bushes in.

The writing also has not turned out great as the letters of "Rocket Bullet" seem too close together, that being said I personally don't think it is bad for a first effort.


----------



## D_W

irons...lots of them. There are something like 4 commercial irons in this stack that I use to trace the slot, but the rest are made all by hand or at least partially - I don't have any large machine tools.

the point of them is to test various alloys as well as getting a sense for heat treatment routine (by hand and eye) with each. Some of the earlier irons in steels that have less room for error are hit or miss. All of them plane fine, but some are a touch soft or have slightly larger grain than they should which leads to them being a little overhard but also chippy.

Learning what I've learned, I can take these back to the forge, shrink the grain and reharden them and maybe give a few away.

My time to make an iron has shortened from about an hour and a half to half an hour plus about 10 minutes for heat treat, and that includes cutting the initial bevel after heat treatment (too much before with some of the water hardening steels leads to a lot of warp), flattening the back and honing them. 




I have been having a field day testing them both for edge behavior and for how they work on the stone. There is a point of bliss when everything is right, and it's not that hard to hit. All of these steels are O1 or more plain than that, so none are "long wearing" irons, they're more like a vintage plane iron but with control of the hardness.

it's a treat to see how each will work and figure out certain things - like why some steels that are really popular for knives (like 52100) only make an okay plane iron.

The last picture is a view through a full width shaving made of 1095 steel. Sharpened with about $40 worth of sharpening stones and a common stitched buffing wheel.







Super thin shavings are kind of corny, but they are very effective at letting you know if there is a nick more than a couple of ten thousandths in size vs. stopping periodically and looking through a microscope, which is kind of a pain. 

I think the way tradesmen did a lot of experimenting with heat treatment process is a lot like what I'm doing here - which is the point - refining based on outcome and refining to improve outcome further without getting too scientific from the start and relying on controlled furnaces, etc. 

I have had two steels (O1 and one more like a japanese steel) tested with results as good as furnace for one and better than anything published for the other, and then two (1084 and 1095 where results were poor and then just mediocre in destructive testing, which was a surprise). I later fixed the issues with both of those, but it was a little bit of a shock as the two I had success with are supposed to be more difficult to get right by eye without normalizing and austenitizing. this topic is so political in the modern blademaking crowd that by even saying that I did it ultimately caused so much static that I got banned for being suspected of being an alternate ID of a prior troll. Of course, I am not that. 

Showing actual lab testing results for hardness and toughness and stating that you didn't normalize or separately austenitize steel is literally grounds for being banned - a complete surprise.

I've also learned that there is "too tough" for steel for woodworking. if a steel will accumulate damage without letting go of the damaged bits (due to toughness), then it's not going to be that interesting and the wire edge when you sharpen will also be persistent. But such things make a good knife because a person will have to bend the knife pretty far before it breaks, and that bending makes it difficult to claim that you're returning a broken knife that wasn't abused.


----------



## Peri

Yet another board - panga/maple with elm surround, and home made inlay banding


----------



## Frogsuk

Neighbours smashed their glass table top, so I striped a couple of pallets, put the wood through my thicknesser and rebated the back for cross members. They have just coated with 3 coats of Osmo oil and are very happy


----------



## NickDReed

Evening in the garage, made a little circle jig for cutting bowl blanks. Jig works well. Bandsaw is a pile of excrement! Cat is tired.


----------



## Garno

Hopefully you would of seen the black box that I 3D Printed the day before yesterday.

There were a lot of things wrong with the box so Yesterday I decided to revamp it.

To cut a long story short I made a right mess of it, I managed to sort the text out and put 2 sleeves inside the box to hold the bushes.
I have no idea how but I managed to miscalculate the size of the sleeves so they could not hold the bushes. Because I had sleeves inside I had to alter the size of the box and then miscalculated the size of the lid. The lid is dovetailed and the box has no internal measurement on my drawing.

Now the lid fits as snug as a bug in a rug, I am so happy with the dovetail.
The sleeves are almost perfect, certainly good enough for the box.

For how new I am into this I am thrilled with the results (albeit it is all very basic)


----------



## Stigmorgan

Something a little different from me today, today I made shiny ️ 
One of my favourite summer jobs in school is the hall floor, mop on polish stripper, have a coffee, use the floor scrubber/dryer to remove the stripped polish and clean the floor, this takes 3 passes, left to right and up/down to remove the stripper /polish sludge with a black/coarse pad then a 3rd pass with a red buffing pad to get any remnants not picked up previously, then go for lunch to let everything dry, finally for day one apply the first coat of polish, mopping it all in the same direction, tomorrow morning I'll buff the floor with a white pad before the 2nd coat of polish then again before the 3rd coat in the afternoon


----------



## Lorenzl

Good to see you take pride in your job @Stigmorgan


----------



## NickDReed

Stigmorgan said:


> Something a little different from me today, today I made shiny ️
> One of my favourite summer jobs in school is the hall floor, mop on polish stripper, have a coffee, use the floor scrubber/dryer to remove the stripped polish and clean the floor, this takes 3 passes, left to right and up/down to remove the stripper /polish sludge with a black/coarse pad then a 3rd pass with a red buffing pad to get any remnants not picked up previously, then go for lunch to let everything dry, finally for day one apply the first coat of polish, mopping it all in the same direction, tomorrow morning I'll buff the floor with a white pad before the 2nd coat of polish then again before the 3rd coat in the afternoon
> View attachment 140528


And then I trust you take you shoes off and see how far you can slide in just socks!!


----------



## D_W

two more blades yesterday. A metallurgist in the US has described 80crV2 (0.85 carbon steel with chromium and vanadium added, but a deceptive name because it's a very fine grained still very plain steel) as steel commonly used in woodworking tools. 

This steel is nothing like any of the common steels provided (O1, A2, V11, etc) in a lot of the consumer tools, but it is also dirt cheap bought from the right place - about $8 of total cost to make a blade. 

The high toughness should mean that it will allow lower tempering and still be tough enough to work - as in when it's left really hard, it still won't be chippy. I'll test that theory in wood. 

it doesn't wear as long as something like A2 - how much less, I don't know - 20-25% I'll find that out, too. For an experienced woodworker, avoiding edge damage is more important than nominal abrasion test results. 

Letters on the blades denote what the heat treatment parts were, even though they're by eye in a forge, you can do a lot to manipulate grain size and even shrinking carbides or keying steel to trade some toughness for hardness before tempering is factored in. 

FAT is Forge heats (which would occur making chisels), A - anneal in vermiculite, T - thermal cycling to shrink grain before hardening. 

I have a metallurgical scope and can later compare the carbides in the steel to micrographs and make sure the results don't deviate from "good" samples. 

Learned a lesson about buying stamps, too - if you buy a used box of reversed metal stamps, and some of the reversed stamps were missing, they're more valuable than regular stamps and you've got a good chance of having numbers and letters that are not reversed when someone completes the set with more common regular stamps. regular stamps stamp into metal so you can read then normally, and reversed are intended to be used to make another stamp, which will be a mirror image. if the stamp looks "normal" when you look at the end, it's actually a reverse stamp. T, A, O, 8, etc, no big deal, they're the same either way. 

the 2 in this case was stuffed in a regular set with a reverse stamp - oops.


----------



## clogs

stigmorgan
I did a lot in a private school.....painting at night mostley.....
but once did the dining room floor.......
after all the scrubbing, the varnish like product was put on with a big mop as in Mc Donalds....
it looked like milk.......
aparently good for a year with 2 coats....
strange stuff......


----------



## D_W

Stigmorgan said:


> Something a little different from me today, today I made shiny ️
> One of my favourite summer jobs in school is the hall floor, mop on polish stripper, have a coffee, use the floor scrubber/dryer to remove the stripped polish and clean the floor, this takes 3 passes, left to right and up/down to remove the stripper /polish sludge with a black/coarse pad then a 3rd pass with a red buffing pad to get any remnants not picked up previously, then go for lunch to let everything dry, finally for day one apply the first coat of polish, mopping it all in the same direction, tomorrow morning I'll buff the floor with a white pad before the 2nd coat of polish then again before the 3rd coat in the afternoon



I remember as a kid that if you went to the school in summer (for optional sports practices or band or whatever), sometimes you couldn't get down some of the halls because they were waxing the floors. which was confusing because they were some kind of stone composite.

Doubly confusing as a kid was the fact that they took some days to do it because they were "removing the wax" and then "applying the wax".

I'm sure it was more than just wax. Thanks to woodworking, I get what they were doing - nothing stays nice forever and you can't just pile good stuff on top of rubbish. But as a kid, it sure sounded like they were digging a hole one day so they could fill the hole the next!


----------



## Kayen

I made this a while back - end grain Brown Oak or possibly Tiger Oak (I did try to find out on here, but not conclusive) and Maple.


----------



## Stigmorgan

clogs said:


> stigmorgan
> I did a lot in a private school.....painting at night mostley.....
> but once did the dining room floor.......
> after all the scrubbing, the varnish like product was put on with a big mop as in Mc Donalds....
> it looked like milk.......
> aparently good for a year with 2 coats....
> strange stuff......


I use the same mop, the polish does look like milk but I wouldn't recommend drinking it  our hall is also used as the lunch room so gets a lot of use so gets scrubbed twice a week and full strip and polish every summer and occasionally a clean and light polish at easter if it needs it.


----------



## D_W

Stigmorgan said:


> I use the same mop, the polish does look like milk but I wouldn't recommend drinking it  our hall is also used as the lunch room so gets a lot of use so gets scrubbed twice a week and full strip and polish every summer and occasionally a clean and light polish at easter if it needs it.



Can you describe it for the dumb? I am now genuinely curious about what's in it - does it crosslink or something, or is it solvent that dissolves the wax but then dries as solid?

With finishes anymore, it's hard to tell what's in anything without getting the SDS.


----------



## TRITON

D_W said:


> two more blades yesterday. A metallurgist in the US has described 80crV2 (0.85 carbon steel with chromium and vanadium added, but a deceptive name because it's a very fine grained still very plain steel) as steel commonly used in woodworking tools.
> 
> This steel is nothing like any of the common steels provided (O1, A2, V11, etc) in a lot of the consumer tools, but it is also dirt cheap bought from the right place - about $8 of total cost to make a blade.
> 
> The high toughness should mean that it will allow lower tempering and still be tough enough to work - as in when it's left really hard, it still won't be chippy. I'll test that theory in wood.
> 
> it doesn't wear as long as something like A2 - how much less, I don't know - 20-25% I'll find that out, too. For an experienced woodworker, avoiding edge damage is more important than nominal abrasion test results.
> 
> Letters on the blades denote what the heat treatment parts were, even though they're by eye in a forge, you can do a lot to manipulate grain size and even shrinking carbides or keying steel to trade some toughness for hardness before tempering is factored in.
> 
> FAT is Forge heats (which would occur making chisels), A - anneal in vermiculite, T - thermal cycling to shrink grain before hardening.
> 
> I have a metallurgical scope and can later compare the carbides in the steel to micrographs and make sure the results don't deviate from "good" samples.
> 
> Learned a lesson about buying stamps, too - if you buy a used box of reversed metal stamps, and some of the reversed stamps were missing, they're more valuable than regular stamps and you've got a good chance of having numbers and letters that are not reversed when someone completes the set with more common regular stamps. regular stamps stamp into metal so you can read then normally, and reversed are intended to be used to make another stamp, which will be a mirror image. if the stamp looks "normal" when you look at the end, it's actually a reverse stamp. T, A, O, 8, etc, no big deal, they're the same either way.
> 
> the 2 in this case was stuffed in a regular set with a reverse stamp - oops.
> 
> View attachment 140534



New material for you to make a chisel out of.

Bulk metallic glass. 
Harder than hardened steel.

Needless to say your fellow Americans have already made a knife out of it. I expect reuseable bullets next 




__





Non-Magnetic, Tough, Corrosion- and Wear-Resistant Knives From Bulk Metallic Glasses and Composites


High-performance knives are used in hunting, fishing, sailing, diving, industrial, and military applications.




www.techbriefs.com


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## D_W

TRITON said:


> New material for you to make a chisel out of.
> 
> Bulk metallic glass.
> Harder than hardened steel.
> 
> Needless to say your fellow Americans have already made a knife out of it. I expect reuseable bullets next
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Non-Magnetic, Tough, Corrosion- and Wear-Resistant Knives From Bulk Metallic Glasses and Composites
> 
> 
> High-performance knives are used in hunting, fishing, sailing, diving, industrial, and military applications.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techbriefs.com



It looks like those may have some issues with low toughness due to lack of grain boundaries to stop crack formation. 

I'm guessing that will be solved at some point. 

There's no universal number that I can think of but steels about half as tough as O1 have limited application (O1 is pretty low toughness for some odd reasons, but we don't really challenge toughness in woodworking and the offshoot of low toughness is that the burr doesn't try to hang on forever, so that's not so bad). 

I think I've seen mention of non-crystalline materials in knives or as a coating for knives. Toughness (vs. strength) is very important for knives that are used improperly - which is pretty much everything used in an average kitchen.


----------



## Stigmorgan

D_W said:


> Can you describe it for the dumb? I am now genuinely curious about what's in it - does it crosslink or something, or is it solvent that dissolves the wax but then dries as solid?
> 
> With finishes anymore, it's hard to tell what's in anything without getting the SDS.


Not 100% sure, comes in a 5ltr bottle








This is where we get it from








BlueOcean High Solids Floor Polish 5L


BlueOcean© High Solids Floor Polish 5L-((S))




hbsgroup.net


----------



## Gant

This thread has taken me right back to my childhood in the 1960s. My grandad was a school caretaker in Scarborough and took a similar pride in the hall floor. As I write this I can smell the newly polished wooden floor.


----------



## D_W

Stigmorgan said:


> Not 100% sure, comes in a 5ltr bottle
> View attachment 140566
> View attachment 140567
> 
> 
> This is where we get it from
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BlueOcean High Solids Floor Polish 5L
> 
> 
> BlueOcean© High Solids Floor Polish 5L-((S))
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hbsgroup.net



The SDS is a little limited and I'm not a chemist, but it looks like at least part of it is evaporative alcohol. 

Looking at the array of things offered here doesn't provide much clarity - some are a finish/wax mix and others are literally the same thing as a crosslinked water-based spray finish. Kind of interesting how things are changing. I'm about to refinish my floors and looking for the less-easy-to-find-now solvent based floor stuff. I had done two small sections in the past, one with the traditional solvent based stuff, and another with water based. The solvent based floor looks much better, and may actually be softer but shows scratches less. 

the WB stuff worked fine, though. It just isn't an equal to the solvent stuff yet, and the solvent is being knocked back to lower VOC so i expect that it will not flow out as well or dry as hard, one or the other. 

the crosslinked WB finishes I've sprayed (the floor stuff I used isn't crosslinked...I'm convinced the crosslink additive is quite unhealthy) are very hard, though, and I accidentally applied WB floor finish over oil stain by not reading the cans - 8 years later, still no sign of poor adhesion - I think they are making fast improvements to eliminate adhesion issues that plagued early WB finishes to the point that mine adhered to still slightly wet oil stain. 

At any rate, This whole topic is interesting - sooner or later, we'll be left only with the WB stuff and i was _not able to find any reasonable floor contractor who would use oil based finish_, because the WB floor finishes here can now be sanded between coats within two hours. It's easier for the floor guys to apply and they'll gladly tell customers there's no difference in how they look or wear until you press them on it. 

So I just bought a floor sander instead and will resell it when done. If you can't beat 'em, play a different game.


----------



## NickVanBeest

Didn't "make" anything, but took everything apart and into storage... moving next week, and the shop/wood will have to wait


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## Jameshow

NickVanBeest said:


> Didn't "make" anything, but took everything apart and into storage... moving next week, and the shop/wood will have to wait
> 
> View attachment 140671


Your not moving to Devon too?!!


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## NickVanBeest

Jameshow said:


> Your not moving to Devon too?!!


Nope, Dorset for me


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## cgarry

I finally finished and fitted my shoe rack.

Made from 9mm Birch Ply edged with Walnut and mounted to the wall with French Cleats.









Cheers,
Chris


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## Fitzroy

cgarry said:


> I finally finished and fitted my shoe rack.
> 
> Made from 9mm Birch Ply edged with Walnut and mounted to the wall with French Cleats.
> 
> View attachment 140689
> View attachment 140690
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> Chris



But surely you family, especially children, will leave their shoes on the floor right next to it just to annoy you. 

Fitz.


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## Fitzroy

Today I had a revelation. Building a workbench has been on the to do list for about 5 years. In fact I’m I the middle of a WIP on here that I started in 2017. Anyhow for the bench I’m planning a leg vice and I have a big old screw to use. However it has a fair bit of play in it and I was very worried about hacking my new bench leg to pieces only to find it was not suitable. I’ve been umming and ahhing about it for weeks and today decided I’d have to build a prototype to see if it would work. 

So I dug out some spare timber and knocked up a quick version attached to my current temporary (5yrs now) bench. It’s not quite finished yet as I need the parallel guide. But OMG I’m a bloody fool! Why have I been fannying about with hand clamps and other half baked work holding solutions for so long. 

I can’t get over the holding force of it, and the ease of working on a well held work piece.

.


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## cgarry

Fitzroy said:


> But surely you family, especially children, will leave their shoes on the floor right next to it just to annoy you.
> 
> Fitz.


Hmmm, I am sure it will work as well as the dirty linen basket does...


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## Thingybob

Jameshow said:


> Your not moving to Devon too?!!


Told you James better get your finger out were filling up pretty quick


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## Jameshow

Thingybob said:


> Told you James better get your finger out were filling up pretty quick


Down there part time!!


----------



## Shan

A couple of bowls for the collection. 
Made from peach wood. Bit wonky in parts but the grain helped it along. Few cracks and some beetle holes but filled with a mix of PVA and saw dust and a bit of wood filler here and there.


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## Phil Pascoe

Thingybob said:


> Told you James better get your finger out were filling up pretty quick


Good.


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## Nick S




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## Stigmorgan

Found a big block of pine last week, think it fell from the tractor when the grass on the school field was cut, measured approximately 300x600x100mm so cut 2x 9" blanks from it and mounted one on a face plate, being a very dry soft wood it was a PITA to get clean cuts, fortunately ately it sanded very easily, was a little unsure about it as there are many cracks runn8ng through it which I filled with superglue, sanded to 320g then abrasive paste and diamond wax. Still have to remove the tenon 




Your browser is not able to display this video.


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## Blackswanwood

Zebrano and Walnut Jewellery Box.


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## Stigmorgan

Started a new project today, the caretaker at one of our academy's other schools is leaving soon and the other caretakers asked if I would make something so I've settled on a trophy, the others are going to get a plaque engraved, today I made the base from a piece of cherry, now I need to find a nice piece of something to make the cup, probably either oak or Hawthorn.


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## Stigmorgan

Want to show off someone elses work today, the very kind and talented @Phill05 offered to see if he could find why I managed to break 2 revolving live centres and to see if he could repair one of them so I sent both to him so he could compare them and the break points, today I recieved them both back fully restored with new morse tapers and improved bearings, they beautiful and I can't wait to use them, he even added a spare set screw for the centrepoint in the end of the taper.


----------



## Stigmorgan

So I couldn't wait to use the new live centres and to finish the trophy I started yesterday, I couldn't find a decent bit of Oak or Hawthorn so I used my last piece of spalted birch and have to say I love the result, sanded to 400g then abrasive paste and finished with yandles brand diamond wax







I did get a shock when I touched the live centre during turning, I wasn't prepared for how hot it would get and burnt my knuckle a bit


----------



## Dr Al

Today I finished making four dovetail boxes (spread out over two posts on here). 
I made these mostly to practise hand-cut dovetails. Three of the frames were made while I was on holiday; the other was from a while before then. When I got back I had lots of other stuff on the list (and wanted to spread out the resawing work as most of this was pre-bandsaw!), so these have taken a while to complete. Pretty much all hand cut (I think the only exception was one lid, which was resawed on my new bandsaw before finishing by hand).

They had their third coat of Mike's Magic Mix yesterday so I think I can call them done now.

This one is oak sides (two of which ebonised), beech lid & base and walnut lining and trim (and was my first ever dovetailed thing, my first ever ebonised thing and my first ever hinged thing):
















This one is ash and (believed to be) greenheart sides with poplar for the lid, base and lining:


----------



## Dr Al

This one is sweet chestnut & cherry sides with (believed to be) greenheart for everything else:





















and finally, this one is ash & (believed to be) greenheart sides, ash lid & base, (believed to be) greenheart handle thing and cedar of lebanon lining:


----------



## clogs

Fitz,
had a similar problem with one of my daughter....she was about 12.....
She would roll down her trousers when she got home from school to shower..and just leave em on the floor.....before settling down for homework and T.......
Can't remember how many times I asked her to put her stuff in the laundry unrolled with her nickers in a seperate pile.....
In the end she asked where her clean stuff was and was told, her washing was all in the stream
)we lived in a water mill)...gave her a bar of soap and said do it urself.....
never a problem again.....
she's now 28 and still as untidy.....not my prob anymore......hahaha...


----------



## Doug71

Enjoyed a bit of rough joinery last couple of days building a bit of patio screening.

Designed by the customer, hopefully stop people falling off the new raised patio area plus screen it from the neighbours a bit (they will be growing something up it).

It's actually bigger than it looks, the posts are doubled up 4x4's and 3m long on the high side.


----------



## Cooper

Blackswanwood said:


> Zebrano and Walnut Jewellery Box.


Very nice work. Are the joints on the first box Lap Joints or Lap Dovetails? I can't quite see, are the fillets of the second box square or dovetail? I like the contrast. (I always called them dovetail wedges but if they aren't at an angle, it seems the wrong word) 
Well done 
Martin


----------



## Amateur




----------



## Amateur




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## Amateur




----------



## Amateur

Desk for my niece. 
Made from English Elm.
Finished with Danish oil
Three coats of Rustins Poly
Briwax.

Just getting too to be old lugging this size stuff about.
Mike


----------



## Amateur

Top...forgot that but..lol


----------



## Jameshow

Amateur said:


> View attachment 140941


Your avatar isn't strictly true....!!!


----------



## Phill05

Stigmorgan said:


> So I couldn't wait to use the new live centres and to finish the trophy I started yesterday, I couldn't find a decent bit of Oak or Hawthorn so I used my last piece of spalted birch and have to say I love the result, sanded to 400g then abrasive paste and finished with yandles brand diamond wax
> View attachment 140871
> View attachment 140872
> 
> I did get a shock when I touched the live centre during turning, I wasn't prepared for how hot it would get and burnt my knuckle a bit


Don't leave too much pressure on, dig it in then back off a little, I have two of your old bearings here burnt out mate.


----------



## Blackswanwood

Cooper said:


> Very nice work. Are the joints on the first box Lap Joints or Lap Dovetails? I can't quite see, are the fillets of the second box square or dovetail? I like the contrast. (I always called them dovetail wedges but if they aren't at an angle, it seems the wrong word)
> Well done
> Martin


Thanks Martin. It's a lap joint. 

As I've only one box in my post I'm wondering though if your question was to @Dr Al ?


----------



## Amateur

Jameshow said:


> Your avatar isn't strictly true....!!!


I put it up 96 years ago though.lol


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## Stigmorgan

Phill05 said:


> Don't leave too much pressure on, dig it in then back off a little, I have two of your old bearings here burnt out mate.


Noted  what grease would you recommend I use?


----------



## Cooper

Blackswanwood said:


> As I've only one box in my post I'm wondering though if your question was to @Dr Al ?


Sorry I mistook the tray for another box sitting on top of the first one.
Martin


----------



## Blackswanwood

Cooper said:


> Sorry I mistook the tray for another box sitting on top of the first one.
> Martin


No worries at all Martin.

The tray is mitre jointed with sycamore keys

Cheers


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## Stigmorgan

Made a little twig pot from an old wooden skittle that was thrown out of school.


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## Doug B

garden room I’ve been building in my spare time over the last 3 months, mainly made from recycled materials & timber i already had, some finishing touch’s to do on the inside but at least the outside is done.


----------



## David with splinters

Our Pearl wedding anniversary coming up so have started on a present for Mrs Splinters. Beech and Walnut.


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## Stigmorgan

@David with splinters gorgeous start mate, can't wait to see the final result.

So the other half was in a hit and run by a lorry driver on the motorway last night, she is mostly OK, so as you can imagine I'm feeling rather frustrated so went out to calm down at the temple of wood, I haven't been happy with my previous creation so decided to have another go and keep the opening as I had originally intended, it came out perfectly, here's a few pics of today's one, a pic of the piece next to one of the skittles it started life as and finally a pic of both creations, today's is definately better and I can't believe I got the 'collar' sectio at identical heights without trying, the 1st one wasn't even out there with me.



















Previous one finished with walnut oil, today's one finished with 2 coats of polished hard wax


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## Garden Shed Projects

I wish your wife all the best and a speedy recovery. 

You seem to turn out quite a lot of pieces. I am curious on what you do with them all? You must have hundreds.


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## Stigmorgan

Garden Shed Projects said:


> I wish your wife all the best and a speedy recovery.
> 
> You seem to turn out quite a lot of pieces. I am curious on what you do with them all? You must have hundreds.


I think around 100 pieces since I started in November, I've sold quite a few pieces to staff at work, I've gifted a lot to friends and family, I have a shelf in the maker space with most of what I still have and the rest are in the house, probably about 15 to 20 pieces.


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## Orraloon

Stigmorgan said:


> I think around 100 pieces since I started in November, I've sold quite a few pieces to staff at work, I've gifted a lot to friends and family, I have a shelf in the maker space with most of what I still have and the rest are in the house, probably about 15 to 20 pieces.


I was a bit the same in my early days of turning. The bug bites and you are on the lathe at every spare minute you have. The result is masses of turnings to dispose of. After a while all the friends and family are at saturation point and you have to slow down the production line. These days I am happy to do something when someone asks and handles, knobs and odd bits for general woodworking. While not turning as much as I used to I still love it.
Regards
John


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## Stigmorgan

Orraloon said:


> I was a bit the same in my early days of turning. The bug bites and you are on the lathe at every spare minute you have. The result is masses of turnings to dispose of. After a while all the friends and family are at saturation point and you have to slow down the production line. These days I am happy to do something when someone asks and handles, knobs and odd bits for general woodworking. While not turning as much as I used to I still love it.
> Regards
> John


I plan to have a little stall outside the makerspace for when parents collect the kids at the end of the day (the joy of living in the school grounds, they have to walk past my door to get to the school) and the PTA have said I can have a stall at the school Christmas fayre.
I am very creative so need to be making something all the time, luckily when I need a break from woodturning I can go back to papercrafting,


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## David with splinters

David with splinters said:


> Our Pearl wedding anniversary coming up so have started on a present for Mrs Splinters. Beech and Walnut.


Today’s progress is the box lid. Two little mother of pearl dots to cut and fit still but my eyes have given up for the day.


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## Padster

Just a couple from this week end - the pen is Thuya Burl and was far from easy to turn or finish, the letter opener was leveraging a piece of leftover acrylic blank I had















Regards

Padster


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## throbscottle

I made Sandy the sanding machine. It doesn't have chicken wire sticking out of it! That is a rolled up dog barrier in the background.




Not finished yet. The table isn't fastened down, and the motor (which came from some kind of water pump) is missing the cover for the electrics. So I need to make a cover for it out of something.

That's just a regular small sanding disk glued to the front. I started off more ambitious but relying on gluing some very rubbish ply that I found, to the nut which used to be the hub of the water pumping impeller, proved fiddly and I messed it up.. It's barely level as it is. So I'll be making a better version when I'm not in a rush to actually use it! Starting with a better hub - I'll see if I can build up the nut with something since it's already got plastic round it.

Actually Sandy the sanding machine isn't the last thing I made. Potty the parts pot is the last thing I made - it's the cardboard core from a (Sky) cable reel with a piece of thin board glued to the base, which I was then able to sand down the edges of using Sandy the sanding machine!

I don't normally name my creations. Must be the weather.


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## kinverkid

This is Stitchy the leather stitcher. I don't need a permanent place for my leather stitcher but I do have to store it in the workshop so I made a case to protect it from dust and to make it a little easier to move. It's made from old pine floorboards and 3mm plywood. The case is very light but the cast iron machine is quite heavy and awkward to lift with two hands hence the two handles either end of the cover. It also lifts off the drawer section for when I want to clamp it to a bench. The three handles to the drawers are made from upholstery leather wrapped around 30mmx5mm paracord. I've ordered some more catches which are a little stronger and all matching
.


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## NickVanBeest

throbscottle said:


> I don't normally name my creations. Must be the weather.


Every good creation needs a name


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## Droogs

kinverkid said:


> This is Stitchy the leather stitcher. I don't need a permanent place for my leather stitcher but I do have to store it in the workshop so I made a case to protect it from dust and to make it a little easier to move. It's made from old pine floorboards and 3mm plywood. The case is very light but the cast iron machine is quite heavy and awkward to lift with two hands hence the two handles either end of the cover. It also lifts off the drawer section for when I want to clamp it to a bench. The three handles to the drawers are made from upholstery leather wrapped around 30mmx5mm paracord. I've ordered some more catches which are a little stronger and all matching
> .View attachment 141551
> View attachment 141552


Is that 1 of those little Chinese cobbler machines that pop up on the tube for around £100? Is it any good?


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## Fitzroy

NickVanBeest said:


> Every good creation needs a name


The wife thought the same thing, i didn't see what was wrong with son 1, son 2, etc


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## throbscottle

Stitchy is like a very cut down version of the leather sewing machine my mum had decades ago. Was it originally meant to be mounted on some kind of industrial fixture?
Next question: Did you make those nice black handles?


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## Adam W.

Stigmorgan said:


> I plan to have a little stall outside the makerspace for when parents collect the kids at the end of the day (the joy of living in the school grounds, they have to walk past my door to get to the school) and the PTA have said I can have a stall at the school Christmas fayre.
> I am very creative so need to be making something all the time, luckily when I need a break from woodturning I can go back to papercrafting,
> View attachment 141191
> View attachment 141192
> View attachment 141193
> View attachment 141194
> View attachment 141195
> View attachment 141196
> View attachment 141197
> View attachment 141198
> View attachment 141199
> View attachment 141200


Stig, you're a force of nature.

I love it!


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## kinverkid

Droogs said:


> Is that 1 of those little Chinese cobbler machines that pop up on the tube for around £100? Is it any good?


It's great if you want to stitch anything thick. So far I've had it stitching 8mm folded leather. If you only want to straight stitch then it takes a lot of work away from hand stitching. I've done some axe head covers for my brother-in-law which are around 6-8mm thick at the seams. When I make another one I'll post it here.


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## kinverkid

throbscottle said:


> Stitchy is like a very cut down version of the leather sewing machine my mum had decades ago. Was it originally meant to be mounted on some kind of industrial fixture?
> Next question: Did you make those nice black handles?


The black handles on the box are rescued one from a cabinet. Come to think of it I think the 3mm ply is from the same cabinet. I should have taken photographs of how to make the leather handles. They are so easy.


----------



## Phill05

kinverkid said:


> This is Stitchy the leather stitcher. I don't need a permanent place for my leather stitcher but I do have to store it in the workshop so I made a case to protect it from dust and to make it a little easier to move. It's made from old pine floorboards and 3mm plywood. The case is very light but the cast iron machine is quite heavy and awkward to lift with two hands hence the two handles either end of the cover. It also lifts off the drawer section for when I want to clamp it to a bench. The three handles to the drawers are made from upholstery leather wrapped around 30mmx5mm paracord. I've ordered some more catches which are a little stronger and all matching
> .View attachment 141551
> View attachment 141552


Where do you find a machine like that?


----------



## David with splinters

Work in progress


----------



## kinverkid

Phill05 said:


> Where do you find a machine like that?


ebay generally. I was lucky that someone had bought one for a project but then didn't need it so it was never unboxed. I got it for £80 with extras including P&P. They range between £100 and £150.


----------



## Andy's Shed

Unsure if this counts, but here's my attempt at a Sycamore leaf using leftovers from an old oak table (you can still see the joins). 

This was intended as nothing other than a trial run with some gouges that I'd been given recently, although I did use a bandsaw to cut out the shape. The more time that I spent on the leaf, the more I wanted to keep it  (Even with the old joint being clearly visible).


----------



## Fitzroy

Oh balls. Been working on the bench build, promise I’ll do an update soon. Anyhow I was cutting a housing joint and no idea how but I managed to mess the marking up, only on one side, and then cut it out in completely the wrong place. Grrrr, annoyed now. 









Fitz.


----------



## Orraloon

Fitzroy said:


> Oh balls. Been working on the bench build, promise I’ll do an update soon. Anyhow I was cutting a housing joint and no idea how but I managed to mess the marking up, only on one side, and then cut it out in completely the wrong place. Grrrr, annoyed now.
> View attachment 141642
> 
> View attachment 141643
> 
> 
> Fitz.


You are not the first and for sure wont be the last thats done that. If all woodworkers were perfect then that rule about starting out with a bit extra timber on projects would not be required.
Bu&&er when it happens but mistakes are part of the learning process.
Regards
John


----------



## Wood4me

Droogs said:


> Is that 1 of those little Chinese cobbler machines that pop up on the tube for around £100? Is it any good?


Yep very good for the money, takes a bit of getting used to and tweaking of a few parts. I did find on some jobs that 2 hands are needed to manipulate the leather rather than 1, with one turning the handle. So I managed to power it quite simply with an old electric drill and drive belt with foot pedal speed control.


----------



## Droogs

Is it just lockstiche or can you do chain stiche too


----------



## Wood4me

Droogs said:


> Is it just lockstiche or can you do chain stiche too


Just lockstitch


----------



## Sawdust=manglitter

It was so strange to be in an empty garage which used to be so utterly rammed with my tools, machinery and wood, as well as years worth of sawdust.


----------



## Padster

Still trying to get to grips with bowls/platters... it was really too hot in my workshop 31C but I wanted to make something, then once I started, well you have to finish...it's a piece of ash...









Regards

Padster


----------



## Phil Pascoe

The first of four plant stands. Heavy weight, as the moneyplants to go on them are rather large. Made from table legs from Dave Dalby Woodturning (Dave Dalby Woodturning - Home) - the actual pictures aren't showing atm as they're shut for holidays. The legs are upended, a bit of decoration put on the square end and a tenon turned on the other. I'll touch a few blemishes up, undercoat again and my daughter can paint her two as she pleases.


----------



## D_W

Didn't "make" it, but from Wednesday afternoon to Yesterday, I stripped part of my upstairs floors with carpet and shellac, scraped them (courtesy of tar-like film left by the carpet padding on the shellac and shellac's distastes for being sanded with a power sander that makes any heat). then sanded, stained and applied a solvent urethane.

We got a fair quote, but the floor refinisher wanted at least $4k, plus requested we store some furniture off site so that he would have a wide working window (add another couple of hundred bucks) and would use only water based products. Plus, he wanted an add on to do the hall. Not sure if he'd have wanted an upcharge if he found out the floor was shellac and not prior easy sanding urethane. In the end, it was easier to just do an end around and do it myself, and after sitting at a desk for my day job for 23 years so far, it was nice to get on the floor and get a bit sore.

Solvent products are becoming VOC restricted here and are really undesirable, but a brilliant woodworker/retired research chemist from another forum - Bill Tindall - helped me understand my options with the solvents available here to get this finish thinned (ended up using xylene) so that it would work much better.





















I *bought* a floor sander rather than renting one, but it was about 1/8th of new used on CL and worked a treat the whole time other than needing to scrape. Very sparing on floor thickness, though - I doubt I removed a 32nd, and that appeals to me as the contractors here will usually take off a huge stripe of thickness with drum sanders and then follow with oscillating types. I guess that assures them that they'll get past any issues in the wood, but this floor has been sanded once before and I don't want to be blocked out of redoing it in the future if there is some kind of disaster. 

By then, there will probably be a machine that would print a layer back on, though.


----------



## Fitzroy

Fitzroy said:


> Oh balls. Been working on the bench build, promise I’ll do an update soon. Anyhow I was cutting a housing joint and no idea how but I managed to mess the marking up, only on one side, and then cut it out in completely the wrong place. Grrrr, annoyed now.
> View attachment 141642
> 
> View attachment 141643
> 
> 
> Fitz.


When you realise how you cocked up earlier! It was the housing in the wrong place that was in the right place, OMG! The bench is asymmetric with a longer overhang on one end, for the tail vice, the back board is as you can see a complete screw up. 

At this point I’m ready to dowel and glue, but decided it was too high risk with the multiple mess ups. So I down tools and went for a dook in the sea instead. 

Fitz. 





Repairing the wrong bit, it was a nice repair though!





The top once glued up should slide over the tenons, happy with the fit.


----------



## danst96

New shop finally! Just moved first bits in, space is back of 4 car garage, roughly 24x18 but plenty overflow space into garage, absolutely huge compared to the 8x12 shop I had in the UK.

Next to do, construct benches and electrics and lighting plus a lick of paint.


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## fezman

That RP box on the right looks familiar Dan  Hope you are well and enjoying the new life over there.


----------



## Sachakins

Bit of an experiment, using using oak, mahogany and tulip wood, offcuts from chopping board I made.
Started turning without plan, just thought maybe a Square platter or bowl, however ended up with neither but both 
About 12" across corners and 2 5/8" high, with a spray lacquer finish, about 6 coats then Yorkshire Grit to finish.


----------



## Sachakins

danst96 said:


> New shop finally! Just moved first bits in, space is back of 4 car garage, roughly 24x18 but plenty overflow space into garage, absolutely huge compared to the 8x12 shop I had in the UK.
> 
> Next to do, construct benches and electrics and lighting plus a lick of paint.
> View attachment 141771


Lots of denailing needed if reusing what looks like timber from crates


----------



## Jester129

Nice work @Sachakins, looks great!


----------



## rob1693

Simple wood box for my marking out out tools made out of one panel of a pine wardrobe door


----------



## D_W

A pair of stainless knives as a favor to someone who has helped me on other things. This fellow mentioned that he had a paring knife that his wife liked, but it was ground in a way that it wasn't that great (fat edged) and also hopefully soft.

And he also mentioned having a boning knife (something I haven't ever owned) that wears too quickly and is also soft, when he does hobby butchering of things he's hunted.

Since he'd provided advice to help me - in this case - understand the chemistry of the environmentally friendly oil based finish - so that I could modify it to work like an older better finish, I more or less said "just send me a picture of these knives you mention from time to time and let me freehand grind a couple of knives". He likes to add the handles himself, which is good, I don't care too much for making handles and would rather do it on my own.

So while I was waiting for some parts of the floor to mature, I cut, heat treated and freehand ground the parer and boning knife.

The parer is CTS-XHP (identical to or nearly identical to what's known as PM V11 in woodworking), and the boning knife on the right is AEB-L, a very fine grained stainless that will still achieve good hardness. It's the closest thing to carbon steel in a stainless steel - the fineness is finer than a lot of carbon steels, and it's a blanking steel used in disposable razors. It's also very tough (PM V11 can break pretty easily in a knife format, so too can O1, so for something that would flex like a boning knife, AEB-L is a better choice.

I'll spare everyone the details because I also do the mortal sin with these knives - heat treating stainless in the open atmosphere with quick heats in a forge. They tolerate cutting dry lumber, so whatever potential is lost to not following a no oxygen computerized heat treatment schedule, it still leaves these knives well above anything that costs even double the cost of the steel (AEB-L, by the way, is very cheap - cheaper than some carbon steels - XHP is definitely not).

I took no design liberties on the handle shapes, just kept them as original except made them a little less big and fat as the rubber handled (look like victorinox) versions are.

The advantage of freehand grinding is that you can handle the knife a lot, it's not in a fixture, and tell if there is any heat build up. The grind is extremely thin at the edges, especially on the parer, which leads to a knife that slips through things really easily, and that is really quick to resharpen because there's very little secondary bevel to abrade. It is thin enough that it would be unwise to offer commercially - intolerant of things like being used to break ice apart. 

not woodworking, but something to do while waiting for the floor refinishing above.

Fingerprints added at no charge.


----------



## thetyreman

fezman said:


> That RP box on the right looks familiar Dan  Hope you are well and enjoying the new life over there.


+1 can't deny being a bit jealous


----------



## Mick p

The biggest turning I’ve ever done a 15 inch oak worktop platter requested by a neighbour turned on my very old (like me) Tyme cub I’m happy with the results I hope she is


----------



## NickVanBeest

Not a new build, but a modified rebuild...




Needed to chop 28cm off to fit it in the space, but then used that offcut for the shelf on the right


----------



## Stigmorgan

Mick p said:


> The biggest turning I’ve ever done a 15 inch oak worktop platter requested by a neighbour turned on my very old (like me) Tyme cub I’m happy with the results I hope she is


Thats stunning @Mick p


----------



## Dynamite

I’ve made a Chisel Tray. I did this because I needed one anyway but mainly so I could practice and attempt my first dovetails in about 35 years! I’m going to make a memory box for my daughter and boyfriend so need the practice. It’s mahogany and oak (both scrap) and finished with BLO then wax.


----------



## point5clue

I am the proud owner of a new Axminster AW2305B - I believe it is the law you you have to make a bandsaw box right away so here is mine. 4 x 4by2 glued up in to a block. Finished in home made paste wax.


----------



## David with splinters

Box now finished and just in the nick of time!


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Phil Pascoe said:


> The first of four plant stands. Heavy weight, as the moneyplants to go on them are rather large. Made from table legs from Dave Dalby Woodturning (Dave Dalby Woodturning - Home) - the actual pictures aren't showing atm as they're shut for holidays. The legs are upended, a bit of decoration put on the square end and a tenon turned on the other. I'll touch a few blemishes up, undercoat again and my daughter can paint her two as she pleases.
> 
> View attachment 141716
> View attachment 141717
> View attachment 141719


The link to the legs -





Dave Dalby Woodturning - Home


manufacturers of high quality stairparts, furniture components and other architectural woodturnings. in timbers including oak ash pine and sapele etc. any number from one to one thousand.



www.stairpartsuk.co.uk





These really are stunning.


----------



## Dynamite

Made a Crosscut Sled for my Tablesaw 

Rob


----------



## redefined_cycles

So... I had a new door frame fitted (by a builder!) but he decided that a gap of 4cm to the floor would be fine. After much thinking I decided to repurpose another door frame got off my mate.

Lots of cutting and sanding later.







I left a gap to thw bottom of the door of about 5mm. Hopefully a draught stopping system might go there later. Then it came to the flooring and I was a little perplexed as to how I keep the expansion gap. After starting the floorinh at the opposite end of the room it finally came to me. Out came the rough-cut saw and chisel. Rested it on a plank of flooring and underlay (2.15 tog I'll have you know) to get the spacing right.

After a bit of elbow grease and a chisel I had my gap and here's thw end product. I've just gone in with the flooring by a mm or so to ensure a good gap. I also sealed the plank of wood at the chiselled end with some waterproof UPVA sealer.





Result... Yes, I do think so!


----------



## pulleyt

Still messing with Kumiko work. I've been inspired by Taeho's Kumiko Club playlist on YouTube and decided to have a go at a smaller scale panel incorporating several new patterns I hadn't attempted before as well as those I've used in the past. My guilty admission is that I used the project as an excuse to get the smaller Festool Kapex mitre saw as used in the later videos from the playlist above.






It's not perfect but it was a 'proof of concept' project for home consumption from which I have a bank of template components to use going forward.


----------



## nosuchhounds

pulleyt said:


> Still messing with Kumiko work. I've been inspired by Taeho's Kumiko Club playlist on YouTube and decided to have a go at a smaller scale panel incorporating several new patterns I hadn't attempted before as well as though I've used in the past. My guilty admission is that I used the project as an excuse to get the smaller Festool Kapex mitre saw as used in the later videos from the playlist above.
> 
> View attachment 142186
> 
> 
> It's not perfect but it was a 'proof of concept' project for home consumption from which I have a bank of template components to use going forward.


Thats beautiful. Once i get my workspace back up and running Kumiko is something i want to concentrate on


----------



## Linus

pulleyt said:


> Still messing with Kumiko work. I've been inspired by Taeho's Kumiko Club playlist on YouTube and decided to have a go at a smaller scale panel incorporating several new patterns I hadn't attempted before as well as though I've used in the past. My guilty admission is that I used the project as an excuse to get the smaller Festool Kapex mitre saw as used in the later videos from the playlist above.
> 
> View attachment 142186
> 
> 
> It's not perfect but it was a 'proof of concept' project for home consumption from which I have a bank of template components to use going forward.


May I ask what you use the Kapex for - cutting components, or do you use it for cutting the slots in the frame pieces ?


----------



## pulleyt

nosuchhounds said:


> Thats beautiful. Once i get my workspace back up and running Kumiko is something i want to concentrate on


Thank you. I'd recommend kumiko work. I find it strangely calming (most of the time).


Linus said:


> May I ask what you use the Kapex for - cutting components, or do you use it for cutting the slots in the frame pieces ?


I made a table to attach to the Kapex saw along the lines of the one at the beginning of Taeho's Kumiko Club Part 7 (he shows how he made it in this video). I'd say I used it mostly for cutting the half-lap and 3 way joints as well as cutting the 'blanks'. Most of the shaping of the ends of the components was done with a chisel and Kumiko blocks or on the disc sander.

I also made his router jig for use with 120⁰, 60⁰, 45⁰ and 30⁰ v-cut router bits. He uses this in Taeho's Kumiko Club Part 10. Both these jigs made it much easier to tackle the advance patterns


----------



## MarkAW

That's impressive. How long did it take to make do you reckon?


----------



## Linus

pulleyt said:


> Thank you. I'd recommend kumiko work. I find it strangely calming (most of the time).
> 
> I made a table to attach to the Kapex saw along the lines of the one at the beginning of Taeho's Kumiko Club Part 7 (he shows how he made it in this video). I'd say I used it mostly for cutting the half-lap and 3 way joints as well as cutting the 'blanks'. Most of the shaping of the ends of the components was done with a chisel and Kumiko blocks or on the disc sander.
> 
> I also made his router jig for use with 120⁰, 60⁰, 45⁰ and 30⁰ v-cut router bits. He uses this in Taeho's Kumiko Club Part 10. Both these jigs made it much easier to tackle the advance patterns


Many thanks for the advice. Lovely work by the way. I had toyed with using a mitre saw for the joints but wasn't sure if I could do it accurately. I haven't got a Kapex and my mitre saw is a bit of a beast but I'll give it a go. All the kumiko I've made so far has been hand sawn small items and I bet it gets a bit long winded on a larger piece like yours. I've been out of the workshop for over six months now so I need a bit of calming therapy.


----------



## pulleyt

MarkAW said:


> That's impressive. How long did it take to make do you reckon?


It's very hard to judge as I've been on and off the project with other jobs and holiday interruptions. Also, this time around I spent a lot of time on making jigs (and redoing my router table top so I had something approaching a flat table). I'd like to think that I old replicate that in two weeks now that I have the jigs and templates in place.


----------



## redefined_cycles

Wouldn't say I made it, but I did make it safe. My MIL yesterday had my BIL round and I notice a desk chopped in half. BIL then asks me to give a hand to pop it in 'that corner'. You know, the one that's next to the concrete flight of steep stairs and there's barely any room to stand. Proper dangerous and this desk we put down has an unstable ledge.

Not the BILs fault as we both know how stubborn she is (first/second generation afghan/pathan and now in her 70s). So today I told the wife we need to go and make it safe before there's an 'incident'. When we get there, naturally she's already trying to reshape this monstrosity and add yet more health/safety hazards with the BILs saw that she obviously asked him to leave.

About 2 hours later, an extra pair of legs and stablising pieces beside them. A little turn thingy to stop it from banging against my shin every time I forgot I was holding the door together. Plus, the main feature - a little pull handle from the (I think) pine that I'd used to add the legs.







Ain't she gorgeous...


----------



## swisstony

A bit of outdoor tidying
Wheelie bins are a bit of an eye sore and if you live in an area like me where you have a ton of them they look unsightly so set my self a task of only using a bit of
Construction timber and pallet wood/scraps and a budget of £180 including hardware I came up with this




























And then it had a baby


----------



## Cordy

swisstony​Great idea, looks good
What did you treat the timber with ?
John


----------



## swisstony

Cordy said:


> swisstony​Great idea, looks good
> What did you treat the timber with ?
> John


Nothing fancy just a few coats of danish oil natural as I liked the way it brought out the colour on the wood . Plus it’s pretty low maintenance compared to a varnish which would only break down pretty quickly on the horizontal surfaces.

The biggest win ( apart from brownie points from my wife ) was the saving. If you buy these expect to pay up to £1000 
Ha ha


----------



## GeoffW

This bandsaw box was made for a Grand-Niece, it was inspired by (shamelessly copied...) the one by @Lons on page 308 of this thread.


----------



## TomB

A cutter guard for my P/T.

I had no joy sourcing an original one which would have attached to the infeed table, so I cobbled this one together from scrap metal I found at my brother’s workshop (agricultural engineers). The actual guard piece is a bit of reclaimed sapele door stile. 

Needs a lick of paint but it’s basically finished.


----------



## pgrbff

A mock-up of a coffee table I saw online and copied.


----------



## Fitzroy

pgrbff said:


> A mock-up of a coffee table I saw online and copied.


Douglas Fir?


----------



## pgrbff

Fitzroy said:


> Douglas Fir?


Yes. Leftovers from my windows and external doors.


----------



## throbscottle

Sachakins said:


> Bit of an experiment, using using oak, mahogany and tulip wood, offcuts from chopping board I made.
> Started turning without plan, just thought maybe a Square platter or bowl, however ended up with neither but both
> About 12" across corners and 2 5/8" high, with a spray lacquer finish, about 6 coats then Yorkshire Grit to finish.View attachment 141778
> View attachment 141779
> View attachment 141780
> View attachment 141781
> View attachment 141782


So you can fill the bowl with your soup and balance the bread on the platter! I jest - it's too gorgeous to put soup in!


----------



## throbscottle

I saw some ideas online for jigs to enable using a router as a jointer. Since my nice old board to make drawer fronts with has decided to twist, I thought I'd have a go at making one. Instead of trying to make level guide rails I used castors so it can be rolled about on my temporary bench which is made out of kitchen worktop, so at least it's level. 

Trouble is my only flat router bit is tiny. Haven't tried it yet.


----------



## CoolNik

Pulleyt
Hi there, I am very interested in your journey into the ”world of Kumiko” as I describe it. I recently took the plunge into this world with the same You Tube channel. It’s rather fun, in a woodworking manner. I was interested in your comment about the mitre saw as this is something I have been tempted to purchase recently but didn’t know whether I was limiting my options be just purchasing the smaller saw - have you found your new saw particularly useful for all your Kumiko work or do you do most of your work by hand with a jig? Also, what grade paper do you use to back your work? I am in New Zealand and while there is plenty of options for paper oversea, there is very little choice in what is available here. I will purchase from overseas if required but need some idea of what grade and/or type to purchase…. Regards Robyn


----------



## David66

Fire wood rack. Now full of freshly split fire wood, drying out for the winter.


----------



## Jester129

@throbscottle - you will soon have problems trying to level some wood when your castors run over some chips of routed wood. There's a reason that router levellers run on rails. Sorry to disappoint you


----------



## bspokespaces

I was given some old floorboards that had been taken up in a farm house - Japanese Oak. I made some alcove cabinets from them but as a thank you to the couple who gave me the timber I made these for him and his wife.


----------



## pulleyt

CoolNik said:


> Hi there, I am very interested in your journey into the ”world of Kumiko” as I describe it. I recently took the plunge into this world with the same You Tube channel. It’s rather fun, in a woodworking manner. I was interested in your comment about the mitre saw as this is something I have been tempted to purchase recently but didn’t know whether I was limiting my options be just purchasing the smaller saw - have you found your new saw particularly useful for all your Kumiko work or do you do most of your work by hand with a jig?



I have found the mitre saw has opened up possibilities that I would probably not have attempted any other way. Using the table I mentioned from the Miter Saw Jig for Kumiko video along with appropriate 'holding sticks' I felt that cutting small pieces was safe. A good example is the *Kawari with star* pattern. The central star comprises three pieces each a mere 17mm long that are assembled with a *mitsu-kude* joint. 






Going forward I will use the mitre saw extensively but not exclusively and there will always be a place for the hand jigs.




CoolNik said:


> Also, what grade paper do you use to back your work? I am in New Zealand and while there is plenty of options for paper oversea, there is very little choice in what is available here. I will purchase from overseas if required but need some idea of what grade and/or type to purchase…. Regards Robyn



I found this *Shoji Gami* paper on Ebay.uk. There are some more interesting papers i.e. more textured and a more 'hand-made' feel but the price goes up a lot. I'm perfectly happy with this grade


----------



## throbscottle

Jester129 said:


> @throbscottle - you will soon have problems trying to level some wood when your castors run over some chips of routed wood. There's a reason that router levellers run on rails. Sorry to disappoint you


Damn! 
Oh well, you know how the song goes:
Weeeeeee brush, brush, brush
We Brush, brush, brush
We brush, the whole day through....

Actually I could fit skirts, which would help. They're pretty awful castors anyway, bought for something else years ago and never used.

Pieces of bog roll tube maybe even.

But, damn!


----------



## stenik

Ok so not in the same class as most but my first go at a small log case. Apricot wood from a neighbour who had to dismember her tree .


----------



## Stigmorgan

stenik said:


> Ok so not in the same class as most but my first go at a small log case. Apricot wood from a neighbour who had to dismember her tree .


Looks good buddy, we all start somewhere


----------



## Dynamite

I made a straight cut jig for my tablesaw. Works a treat… Rob


----------



## throbscottle

Jester129 said:


> @throbscottle - you will soon have problems trying to level some wood when your castors run over some chips of routed wood. There's a reason that router levellers run on rails. Sorry to disappoint you


Well, it turned out to be too high with the castors anyway, so I took them off, so the spacers the castors were on now act as sliders. The sliders just push the chips out of the way so it's become a non-issue. Photo is my first run with it - I'm pretty pleased as it's my fist time ever at home being able to make anything completely flat and level. Made Mrs laugh because I wouldn't shut up about it!
So, the board in the photo is now the first pair of drawer fronts for my electronics drawers!


----------



## Lons

GeoffW said:


> This bandsaw box was made for a Grand-Niece, it was inspired by (shamelessly copied...) the one by @Lons on page 308 of this thread.


Looks great, I hope she likes it as much as my granddaughter does her box.


----------



## sawtooth-9

pulleyt said:


> This is my first attempt at small box making and i wanted to integrate it with Kumiko decoration. These experimental boxes are elm with maple kumiko panels. The lining on the hexagonal box is also maple; the lining on the rectangular box is cedar.
> 
> The hexagonal box lid is 'open' i.e. no backing to the kumiko panel so it could be used for pot pourri (a throw back to the 1980's). The other has is a backing to keep out the dust.
> 
> View attachment 118058


Beautiful work
Stand proud


----------



## Jester129

@throbscottle - nice one, effective workaround and much cheaper than the rails!


----------



## Dynamite

I made a bench hook…


----------



## Garno

Made this from my new hobby.


----------



## niall Y

Alright,.......... I'll stick my head above the parapet. Why has it got an extra set of legs?
Pantomime goose perhaps?


----------



## Garno

niall Y said:


> Alright,.......... I'll stick my head above the parapet. Why has it got an extra set of legs?
> Pantomime goose perhaps?



I couldn't get it to stand on 2


----------



## GeoffW

Lons said:


> Looks great, I hope she likes it as much as my granddaughter does her box.


Thanks Lons, she really did. She sent me a little video thank you, It was quite touching.


----------



## Stigmorgan

@Garno Is this the missing evidence that Geese evolved from the Brontosaurus?


----------



## Morag Jones

…. the solution no isn’t more legs, it’s more ducks…


----------



## Garno

Stigmorgan said:


> @Garno Is this the missing evidence that Geese evolved from the Brontosaurus?



I always thought Brontosaurus was a chest complaint


----------



## throbscottle

Dynamite said:


> I made a straight cut jig for my tablesaw. Works a treat… Rob
> 
> View attachment 142335


Right, that's it. I'm going to make one. The wibbly-wobbly wood needs to be tamed!


----------



## Fitzroy

Many moons ago in 2016, I bought a pile of sleepers for making raised beds. I built one and the wife and I were bored after one season. Since then the sleepers have hung around the yard doing not much apart from acting as rather rough benches. SHMBO has asked for some shelves for one of the boys and I was away researching oak for them. With prices sky high and nothing local I remember the sleeper and wondered if the would be dry by now and if I could slice them up. 

I tried with and offcut and found I could be on to a winner. I’ve got 20cuft of the things sitting around to if I can get 50% into usable wood I’ll be laughing. 

So I cleared a space in the garden and stacked them under the corrugated iron I took off the outhouse earlier in the year. Just trying to keep them dry from the good summer weather as the autumn arrives. 

It’ll be an interesting job cutting them up as the are very heavy but I’ll figure that out later. 

Test piece





The stack 









Excuse the dead tree on top but ran out of time tidying up, it’ll be cut up for the log burner tomorrow. 

Fitz.


----------



## Doug B

Just finished this big gate frame which will eventually be clad







made with wedged through tenons the mortises were hogged out with the domino, squared & chamfered with chisels




the tenons were cut at the table saw & bandsaw





tenons & wedges glued with pu adhesive 






cleaned up


----------



## Dynamite

I made a scrap wood cart for under my bench. Oh and I made it from scrap wood!!
I am going to make another for the left hand side


----------



## Shan

Made a Longworth chuck today and tried it out to see if it was fit for purpose. Held the bowl ok until I went forwards and the whole thing detached from the spindle. Caught it just in time from falling on the floor.

As I don't have a router the arcs were drilled first then I cut out as much as possible with a jig-saw and finished it off with a rasp and file. Bit 





slow but got there in the end. Fun part was consuming 4 bottles of wine to obtain the corks!


----------



## Orraloon

That a great job seeing as you did not have a router. 
I used rubber sink plugs in mine and filled them in with silicone. 15 years on and still going fine.
You do have to go easy using them and use the tailstock for support when you can.
Regards
John


----------



## Jameshow

N


Doug B said:


> Just finished this big gate frame which will eventually be clad
> 
> View attachment 142448
> 
> 
> made with wedged through tenons the mortises were hogged out with the domino, squared & chamfered with chisels
> View attachment 142449
> 
> the tenons were cut at the table saw & bandsaw
> 
> View attachment 142452
> 
> tenons & wedges glued with pu adhesive
> 
> View attachment 142450
> 
> 
> cleaned up
> 
> View attachment 142451


Nice WIP... 

Cheers


----------



## tim ber

Doug B said:


> Just finished this big gate frame which will eventually be clad
> 
> View attachment 142448
> 
> 
> made with wedged through tenons the mortises were hogged out with the domino, squared & chamfered with chisels
> View attachment 142449
> 
> the tenons were cut at the table saw & bandsaw
> 
> View attachment 142452
> 
> tenons & wedges glued with pu adhesive
> 
> View attachment 142450
> 
> 
> cleaned up
> 
> View attachment 142451


Those joints are beautiful….i really need to start using mortise and tenon joints, dont have any dedicated tools for them and never quite trusted myself to do them by hand. That domino looks like a handy tool, like a biscuit jointer but with stronger/thicker ”biscuits”. Quite an investment though


----------



## Dr Al

A box with a Kumiko lid, made almost entirely with hand tools. The only power tool used was a bandsaw for resawing some thick stock down to a thinner section. Everything else: mitred dovetails in the ash sides, mitres in the American black walnut lining and the lid, jigs for the Kumiko and the maple Kumiko itself was cut by hand. Apart from a single practice corner out of some ash scrap, this was the first time I'd ever cut mitred dovetails and also the first time I'd tried fully hand-cut Kumiko.







Another view of the mitred dovetails:






and a close-up of the Izutsu-tsunagi Kumiko pattern (which was much harder to make than the Asa-no-ha pattern I've tried before as a result of that fiddly little grid in the middle):






I'm afraid I haven't posted a WIP on this forum, but there is a (very) detailed write up of the process I went through to make the box (including 119 photos) on my website: CGTK - Kumiko Box Build Process


----------



## Baball

A play kitchen for the kids (minus faux hob and oven dials for now).

Solid oak worktop, birch ply drawers, pine and MRMDF cabinet, door and drawer fronts. Sprayed paint finish. It's only my second third completed project but quite pleased with the result and learnt a lot along the way.


----------



## throbscottle

Looks a lot better than my actual kitchen...


----------



## NickDReed

Another bit of the cherry that fell through the neighbours fence. 2 hours the other day, was quite split and that dictated the shape. Quite like it, and love the figuring. Onwards and upwards


----------



## rob1693

Tool chest I'm working on just in the process of lining the drawers using custards method still yet to decide what I'm doing with the bottom storage below drawers


----------



## NickVanBeest

Reassembled the shed...







As it is just a shed this time, and not a workshop, the cladding inside isn't critical, so it has to wait until I have time again


----------



## Jonzjob

I just turned this bowl










From this bit of ash






Finished with hard wax oil and microcrystaline wax


----------



## Adam W.

Copy of a 17th century joined chair in Baltic oak from Støvringgaard, Denmark. The seat is English oak and comes from Longleat in Wiltshire.


----------



## Fred48

Jonzjob said:


> I just turned this bowl
> 
> View attachment 142806
> 
> View attachment 142807
> 
> 
> From this bit of ash
> 
> View attachment 142811
> 
> 
> Finished with hard wax oil and microcrystaline wax


I'm no expert on wood identification but it appears to be oak not ash. Beautiful bowl whatever the wood


----------



## Garno

Adam W. said:


> Copy of a 17th century joined chair in Baltic oak from Støvringgaard, Denmark. The seat is English oak and comes from Longleat in Wiltshire.
> 
> View attachment 142837



WOW that is totally another level. How long has it taken you to make?


----------



## Jonzjob

Fred, I have to agree and I thought it was oak, but when I had a good look at the end grain I wasn't so sure. It's an offcut from a local joiner/cabinet maker and the bloke in there thought it was ash too? But whatever, thank you for the compliment and I must admit that I was quite impressed with the result.

Not my idea. Someone posted a bit of youtube of an old Indian, I think, turner making bowls out of what looked like scrapped planks and it looked like a good challenge. I tried to find the video, but failed. So if anyone remembers it then would you post it again please. Old Indian bloke with the lathe at ground level and using his feet to guide the gouges?


----------



## Jonzjob

I agree about your chair Adam. It is a beauty!


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Jonzjob said:


> Fred, I have to agree and I thought it was oak, but when I had a good look at the end grain I wasn't so sure. It's an offcut from a local joiner/cabinet maker and the bloke in there thought it was ash too? But whatever, thank you for the compliment and I must admit that I was quite impressed with the result.
> 
> Not my idea. Someone posted a bit of youtube of an old Indian, I think, turner making bowls out of what looked like scrapped planks and it looked like a good challenge. I tried to find the video, but failed. So if anyone remembers it then would you post it again please. Old Indian bloke with the lathe at ground level and using his feet to guide the gouges?


Smell it. Oak has a memorable smell. Drop a few shavings in vinegar with a nail or a piece of wire wool - it'll turn black quite quickly if it's oak.


----------



## Dynamite

Ive installed an Emergency Stop to my table saw. Directly where I can operate with my leg.
Reagrds… Rob

P.S. Disclaimer…Im a fully qualified high level electrician with 35 years experience so I don't condone anyone doing it without knowing what they are doing.


----------



## Yojevol

Dynamite said:


> P.S. Disclaimer…Im a fully qualified high level electrician with 35 years experience so I don't condone anyone doing it without knowing what they are doing


That's an unfortunate username for somebody with 35 years experience. Do you regularly cause things to blow up?


----------



## Adam W.

Garno said:


> WOW that is totally another level. How long has it taken you to make?


Thanks Garno, It has taken just over two weeks to make. I've got two more in the pipe one for the National Trust and one for me.

All have different designs. The one on the bottom is mine and I think it might have something to do with harvests or something like that.


----------



## mikej460

Adam W. said:


> Thanks Garno, It has taken just over two weeks to make. I've got two more in the pipe one for the National Trust and one for me.
> 
> All have different designs. The one on the bottom is mine and I think it might have something to do with harvests or something like that.
> 
> View attachment 142906


You are a very skilled man


----------



## Sean33

Adam W. said:


> Copy of a 17th century joined chair in Baltic oak from Støvringgaard, Denmark. The seat is English oak and comes from Longleat in Wiltshire.
> 
> View attachment 142837


Beautiful work


----------



## Blackswanwood

Sycamore and Birds Eye Maple jewellery box. Inlay and escutcheon are Snakewood. Smarthinges and Smartlock.

I’d forgotten how attractive sycamore is.

Pig suede lining colour wasn’t my choice - I’d have preferred something darker.


----------



## Fitzroy

Blackswanwood said:


> Sycamore and Birds Eye Maple jewellery box. Inlay and escutcheon are Snakewood. Smarthinges and Smartlock.
> 
> I’d forgotten how attractive sycamore is.
> 
> Pig suede lining colour wasn’t my choice - I’d have preferred something darker.
> 
> View attachment 142972
> 
> 
> View attachment 142973
> 
> 
> View attachment 142974


Very nice, what finish did you use?


----------



## Blackswanwood

Fitzroy said:


> Very nice, what finish did you use?


Thanks - I used Clear Honey Peacock Oil (made by Skelton Saws - apparently no peacocks are harmed in the process!) and then Alfie Shine Hardwax (Workshop Heaven).


----------



## Stigmorgan

Blackswanwood said:


> Thanks - I used Clear Honey Peacock Oil (made by Skelton Saws - apparently no peacocks are harmed in the process!) and then Alfie Shine Hardwax (Workshop Heaven).


How do they extract oil from a peacock?


----------



## Morag Jones

Stigmorgan said:


> How do they extract oil from a peacock?


The traditional way was to feed them up on shepherd's pie first to fatten them up. However as shepherds are in short supply, peak production has passed.


----------



## Doug B

Stigmorgan said:


> How do they extract oil from a peacock?


Very carefully


----------



## D_W

Boning knife, AEB-L steel (translate that just to a fine grained stainless that doesn't have to temper soft), cocobolo handle. 

Still finishing the blade (cutting away the glue squeeze out at the front of the handles, etc, cleaning the blade and putting a final hand stoned finish on the steel. After care profiling the handle to avoid getting cut, I managed after this to fillet a pea sized chunk into a loose flap on my index finger using a finger stone to clean up the blade. This morning, I thought "thank goodness I don't use tablesaws much". 


For years, I've had offcuts from blanks- in this case, older cocobolo and cocobolo is far nicer to use once it's had a decade or two to age - the oil oxidizes or something and becomes more dry so that it doesn't gum up belts or refuse gluing. More than once I've considered burning all of these small bits of wood - but they're coming in handy for knife scales. 

the point of making one is partially experimenting, you can see the actual bevel of the knife. I think a lot of commercial knives are thin but aren't thinned that well toward the bevel and a truer flatter grind almost all the way to the edge would be better. This knife gets through things really easy. 

Some guy I know triggered learning more about boning knives (I'm not a chef) by complaining to me often that they should be "surgical tools" and he has to sharpen a victorinox or something similar twice to do each deer that he hunts. After a lot of complaining, I said "just send me a picture with a ruler next to the knife and we'll see if we can come up with better ones". This is the third one I've made - he will make his own handles, and to make one of these with heat treatment and grinding all freehand and by eye still doesn't take long. Maybe an hour total. the handle should be quick, but I am working out ways to make and finish the handles, so it's taking more like an hour to get the handle made. 

it is blistering sharp - the only question now will be whether the taper is so thin at the edge that it gets damage on a deer. And since I don't hunt, that'll have to be the guy who got two of the other ones.


----------



## Fanous

Blackswanwood said:


> Sycamore and Birds Eye Maple jewellery box. Inlay and escutcheon are Snakewood. Smarthinges and Smartlock.
> 
> I’d forgotten how attractive sycamore is.
> 
> Pig suede lining colour wasn’t my choice - I’d have preferred something darker.
> 
> View attachment 142972
> 
> 
> View attachment 142973
> 
> 
> View attachment 142974


Love the box. What glue do you use for the leather? PVA? Glued it before or after the the box has been glued? Where id you buy the harware from?

Thanks for all the answers I may or may not get


----------



## Blackswanwood

Thanks @Fanous and sorry for not replying more promptly.

I use Copydex for the lining. There is a really useful thread on here from Custard (another member) on the method for lining boxes.

Thread 'How to Line Boxes & Drawers'
How to Line Boxes & Drawers

The hardware is from Andrew Crawford - https://www.smartboxmaker.com/


----------



## Blackswanwood

Copied this from a post by @Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) but not executed to his standard 

It’s made from a piece of American Black Walnut that I had knocking around and some Ash that was in the gash pile!


----------



## Fanous

Blackswanwood said:


> Thanks @Fanous and sorry for not replying more promptly.
> 
> I use Copydex for the lining. There is a really useful thread on here from Custard (another member) on the method for lining boxes.
> 
> Thread 'How to Line Boxes & Drawers'
> How to Line Boxes & Drawers
> 
> The hardware is from Andrew Crawford - https://www.smartboxmaker.com/


Many thanks for the tips. Finished reading the Custard's manual, and it seems very clear now, how to go about it. The only thing I'm still unsure, what card is he suggesting to use? Is it some kind of paper? Thin plastic?

Thanks


----------



## Blackswanwood

Fanous said:


> Many thanks for the tips. Finished reading the Custard's manual, and it seems very clear now, how to go about it. The only thing I'm still unsure, what card is he suggesting to use? Is it some kind of paper? Thin plastic?
> 
> Thanks


This is what I use …









Buy White Card A3 50 Sheets for GBP 10.00 | Hobbycraft UK


Buy White Card A3 50 Sheets at Hobbycraft UK.




www.hobbycraft.co.uk


----------



## Sgian Dubh

More a case of make a repair than make something new. About ten years ago I made an oak picnic table out of offcuts left over from sculptural pieces made for an arboretum. The sculptures came out of what were basically green oak sleepers that were rough sawn at the mill to anything from about 6" X 6" and up to maybe 8" X 8". Getting enough material for the design was a bit tight and some of the bits were borderline, specifically there were some inconveniently placed shakes, knots, and sapwood. I just went ahead anyway and used what was there rather than spend extra money on replacement wood. Anyway, one of the table top slats contained a fair chunk of sapwood and, as is to be expected, rot set in and the sappy edge crumbled off. So a repair was called for.

Below is the table when it was new.




​Below shows the repair from the underside along with the rotted slat. I cut out the old slat with a multitool using a couple of crosscuts. Then I machined up a bit of replacement oak, and cut a tenon at either end. At the top of the picture below can be seen how I got the tenon in at that end by routing out a stopped rebate to the depth of the outer cheek of the mortice in the thicker outer frame, plus a piece of replacement wood to make up the thickness of the frame. Waterproof PVA was slapped around, the slat slipped into the mortice at the bottom of the picture and the far end dropped into place and the infill replacement piece of wood clamped and screwed in.




​And from above the new slat looks completely out of place with the old slats, see below. This non-match colour wise of old and new doesn't bother me because in a year or so all the parts will probably just about blend together. As a side note, apart from brushing on a bit of linseed oil when the table was new just to make it a bit prettier for a portfolio photograph at top it has never received any other finish (paint, varnish, oil) since. It had its first ever clean, i.e., scrubbing off dirt, mildew, algae, or whatever with a wire brush and plenty of water earlier this year, and the table sits out unprotected in all conditions all year. I'm one of those that prefers, I suppose, in careless or benign neglect of outdoor pieces of furniture, i.e., very rare maintenance, no varnish, no paint, etc, but I do pick a decently durable wood species to build with. So, not a very exciting or difficult project, maybe three hours work, but just a wee task I felt I ought to do before the broken rotted slat irritated me too much, ha, ha. Slainte.




​


----------



## Droogs

You've managed to blend in the repair really really well there @Sgian Dubh, nobody will notice it


----------



## Sgian Dubh

Droogs said:


> You've managed to blend in the repair really really well there @Sgian Dubh, nobody will notice it


To be honest Droogs, I don't give a rat's ass if somebody does notice. Personally, I agree with you, the blending of new with the older is immaculate. Slainte.


----------



## Doug71

Log store for a customer, not very inspirational but it is the last thing I made! 

Actually quite enjoyed building it, nice little job for a Friday afternoon


----------



## robgul

Storage unit with a drawer and pull-out tray next to our coffee machine (just the column to the left of the cupboard/bookshelf - they're repurposed from a base cupboard and dresser unit that were elsewhere in the kitchen) 18mm MR MDF, a length of new oak for the lipping and re-using bits of the plate rack for drawer fronts.


----------



## Jameshow

Horse shelter almost finished metal roofing tbc. (To be constructed!)


----------



## cowtown_eric

and no, that dust collector does not attach

Eric in the colonies


----------



## Jester129

Is that traffic lights in the background???!!??!


----------



## nickds1

Don't post stuff I make often...

Just finished this this afternoon. I made neon letters a while ago - one for each of our kids. Making neon letters, especially small ones, is tricky particularly when, like me, your hot glass skills are mediocre at best. I had several false starts and maybe 5 failures for each letter I successfully completed to filling with gas & bombarding etc. This tube is actually argon rather than neon filled - argon gives a very light blue/whiteish light rather than the orange of neon. I cunningly call these "Letter Boxes". Subtle, eh?

So, this is "R" for Robert. The box is oak reclaimed from an old shelf with Macassar Ebony splines. The letter is backed by a nice piece of Honduras Rosewood. The back is birch faced very thin ply recovered from the base of an old drawer, held in place by socketed M3 bolts to discourage prying fingers - there's 2000V in the box. Finish is Liberon Finishing Oil.

The high voltage sign transformer and a Sonoff wireless/internet switch (so the unit can be controlled from my son's phone) are in another tamper-proof box with special high voltage cable connecting it to the letter.

Colour in the photos is a bit green as something in the electronics is confusing my phone camera.

One more to make yet...














Here's a picture of a neon M I did a while ago with half blind dovetails for comparison.


----------



## Andy's Shed

My humble Acorn offering. (I also finished building my shop vac enclosure too).


----------



## cowtown_eric

a refinished table top (3 leaves)....not as perfect as I'd like it, but clients loved it


----------



## cowtown_eric

Jester129 said:


> Is that traffic lights in the background???!!??!


yep...I work in a makerspace with ots of geeks...it's just a decoration!


----------



## Fitzroy

Lots of workshop sorting out this weekend. I made a new stand for the sander I bought a few months back.








First time I’ve made anything with splayed legs since I got a mortice machine. Realised I had to have angled tenons else I’d be cutting the mortices by hand, which wasn’t happening! I like building furniture for the shop as any errors are not a problem. So a quick low stress build, which of course resulted in no errors, tight joints and a great outcome when it didn’t really matter. 

I also finally sorted some clamp storage and got the mitre saw and router table out of the way. 





I needed to get things out the way as I’ve a cunning plan to cut up the sleepers that I’ve had lying around for years. They are big and heavy so need infeed and outfeed tables.













The saw manages but struggles as it is hard to feed smoothly and when you feed too hard it slows down. One cut took forever and was exhausting as making the wood slide in a controlled way means lifting most of the weight myself. The outcome was better than hoped and I think I’m going to order so rollers and see if that helps.


----------



## MARK.B.

cowtown_eric said:


> yep...I work in a makerspace with ots of geeks...it's just a decoration!


hmmm likely story, i bet ya nicked them one night on the way home from the pub


----------



## Doug B

A replacement redwood electric meter cupboard the original had to be removed when my customer had a stair lift fitted, handles to be decided on.


----------



## Adam W.

MA show at the City and Guilds, London.


----------



## Blackswanwood

Adam W. said:


> MA show at the City and Guilds, London.
> 
> View attachment 143325


Wonderful work Adam.


----------



## Rodpr

Adam W. said:


> MA show at the City and Guilds, London.
> 
> View attachment 143325


The craft lives on!


----------



## smugdruggler

Side gate I made for my Mum.


----------



## Fitzroy

Took the rough sawn board down flat and true. I had tried to saw it to 40mm, it came off the saw rather uneven, with the thinnest at 35mm. By the time it was planed and thicknessed it was 27mm thick. Sanded and a touch of white spirit to reveal the grain and I love it. It’s a shelf for my sons room, he likes the rough bits and the spalted sap wood so jobs a good in. I’ll epoxy fill the gaps with black epoxy then final finish with something hard wearing. 

For now the question is how flat it will remain, fingers crossed !


----------



## D_W

Three knives, macassar ebony handle at the top, and the bottom two are cocobolo. Just experimenting with knife shapes, blade thickness and taper and especially handle shapes. the two outside knives both have handle issues - not like unusable, just not as lovely as hoped - i'm not sure I'd have identified without making them.

The top two are a stainless blanking steel called AEB-L and the bottom is a carbon steel (80crv2) that would be more like a plainer than O1 tool steel. 


A bit of metal clean up work to do yet, especially near the handle.

I came up with a novel test for the parer - dropping a banana from dishwasher control height. I think this is may be not a very hard test to pass, though.


----------



## D_W

Jester129 said:


> Is that traffic lights in the background???!!??!



yeah!!! and we thought some of the kids in circles were crazy for stealing stop signs.


----------



## skeetstar

They look nice DW, what are the user based issues that were manifested?


----------



## clogs

D-W
suprising ur hands are not all grizziled n grey from metal working.....
r u a glove user.....? hahaha...
I would be happy to own one of ur knives let alone the skill to make em....nice work...


----------



## D_W

clogs said:


> D-W
> suprising ur hands are not all grizziled n grey from metal working.....
> r u a glove user.....? hahaha...
> I would be happy to own one of ur knives let alone the skill to make em....nice work...


There's not a whole lot of skill involved, but the metal dust is filthy!

But strangely enough, the place where I get constant "ouch" is metal splinters in my feet. They're easy to find and remove, though. The dust gets everywhere, in shoes, on clothes, in your hair. They're easy to find and remove, though. I'd probably have excess knives to send around if the international shipping wasn't so high. It only costs something like $10-$12 in materials to make a knife like these.


----------



## D_W

skeetstar said:


> They look nice DW, what are the user based issues that were manifested?



The parer on the right was more or less lifted from a common really large plastic handle parer. I wanted the handle to be more trim, but it's a little short unless you pinch the finger cutouts. That's a problem that's not noticed after a bit, though. the butt of the handle is kind of ugly, but that's not really functional. There's something not quite right with the shape, but for a $10-$12 knife (including the cost of belts and gas), nobody would care about that but the maker. 

The center one is probably fine, though I think the drop could be a little bigger to prevent fingers from sliding forward, that's more of a consumer issue - something I'll never need to worry about. I won't be stabbing or pushing with the boning knife. 

The one on the left, not sure what I was thinking. I cut out the finger notches with a sanding drum right at the tang - really short - and they're effectively worthless. The shoulder is right where you'd want to put fingers. so, it's useless because it just shortens the effective handle length. I will trim it back to be like the middle. 

Making something that you don't know anything about is always an exploratory process - comparing things, finding out what you don't like that you didn't know you wouldn't like and then trying to make the general direction of things better. The only way around it is to buy 20 things and then copy what you like. To do something really well as a first try without much in hand is over my head.


----------



## skeetstar

Yes I see the right one does look short handled by comparison


----------



## Adam W.

Nearly there with the mad tulip mania chair.


----------



## Doug71

Not made but repaired a sash from a sliding sash window. The bottom rail of it was absolutely rotten which had also caused the tenons on the glazing bars to rot away. It's a bathroom window and has rotted from the inside caused by condensation running down the glass.
I wanted to make a new sash but it's a listed building and the customer was keen to save the existing one  






Getting rid of the rotten bits, luckily the stiles were okay or I would have definitely made a new one!







New rail and a bit of splicing, used some offcuts of Accoya so hopefully no more problems.






Good as new, putty needs tidying up a bit more but no doubt I will stick my finger in it tomorrow whilst re hanging it.


----------



## Andy's Shed

Adam W. said:


> Nearly there with the mad tulip mania chair.
> 
> 
> View attachment 143493


Wow!


----------



## Jameshow

Just as


Doug71 said:


> Not made but repaired a sash from a sliding sash window. The bottom rail of it was absolutely rotten which had also caused the tenons on the glazing bars to rot away. It's a bathroom window and has rotted from the inside caused by condensation running down the glass.
> I wanted to make a new sash but it's a listed building and the customer was keen to save the existing one
> 
> View attachment 143531
> 
> 
> Getting rid of the rotten bits, luckily the stiles were okay or I would have definitely made a new one!
> 
> View attachment 143532
> 
> 
> 
> New rail and a bit of splicing, used some offcuts of Accoya so hopefully no more problems.
> 
> View attachment 143533
> 
> 
> Good as new, putty needs tidying up a bit more but no doubt I will stick my finger in it tomorrow whilst re hanging it.
> 
> View attachment 143534


Just as hard restoring as making from scratch?


----------



## Adam W.

Now with ears......








Nearly ready to be released into the wild...Very different, but both were a joy to make.


----------



## Doug71

Jameshow said:


> Just as hard restoring as making from scratch?



Repairing sashes is one of my least favourite jobs, it's unbelievable how long it can take. Once you've taken the glass out and replaced a few bits it's as easy to make a new one from scratch. It's so hard to make a tidy job, further down the line the paint often cracks where you do any splicing and it just ends up looking a mess.

Every time I repair any kind of rotten windows I say never again but I always end up doing some more


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Jameshow said:


> Just as hard restoring as making from scratch?


I rebuilt the bottom third of a box frame - I could have made a new one quicker.


----------



## rogxwhit

I replaced the entire bottom third of a panelled external door. Scarfed stiles, new bottom rail, I can't remember about the muntin. You know how it is - people appear, say 'could you do this', and you might not know immediately _exactly _how you're going to do it but you say yes, because you know it's possible & you like a challenge ... and it's what they want, and they'll pay you.


----------



## rogxwhit

Adam W. said:


> Now with ears......


That doesn't apply to the horse, seemingly ... ;-)


----------



## akirk

recently been playing with pens, both wood and acrylic…




















zebrano





maple & walnut




walnut


----------



## Adam W.

rogxwhit said:


> That doesn't apply to the horse, seemingly ... ;-)


I think its ear got damaged when we went and borrowed it from Greece.


----------



## PaulArthur

I needed a cabinet to hide all the kids’ toys. Came up with an idea for the doors and went from there I picked something that I thought might be quite quick because if the repeatable actions, but they actually ended up taking me ages!

I’m almost happy with the result, and the toys are gone.


----------



## gregmcateer

That is one lovely toy cupboard, sir!!


----------



## Cooper

PaulArthur said:


> I needed a cabinet to hide all the kids’ toys.


A beautiful cabinet well done. You are very brave to put a glass lamp on top. Your children must be less excitable than my grandchildren.


----------



## PaulArthur

Cooper said:


> A beautiful cabinet well done. You are very brave to put a glass lamp on top. Your children must be less excitable than my grandchildren.


I think they realise death with quickly follow any rowdy behaviour around the new cabinet…


----------



## Thingybob

Adam W. said:


> Now with ears......
> 
> 
> View attachment 143577
> 
> 
> 
> Nearly ready to be released into the wild...Very different, but both were a joy to make.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 143578


Very apt coronation chair


----------



## Hornbeam

A couple of small jewellery boxes
This one is oak with a 16 piece starburst pattern lid. The centre is a burr oak disc. Lid opening is 2 scalloped recesses on either end and very shallow ones in the lid. Finish 3 coats of Osmo Poly x satin


----------



## Hornbeam

Second box is ash with a wenge veneered lid. Handles are wenge which are fitted with the smallest (4mm) dominoes. Finish is 3 layers of acrylic lacquer and bison wax. I find acrylic doesnt tend to yellow the ash as much as some finishes


----------



## Adam W.

Very tidy work.


----------



## Stevekane

Adam W. said:


> Nearly there with the mad tulip mania chair.
> 
> 
> View attachment 143493





Adam W. said:


> Now with ears......
> 
> 
> View attachment 143577
> 
> 
> 
> Nearly ready to be released into the wild...Very different, but both were a joy to make.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 143578


I think they look really great and I like that youve used wood thats not perfect to give character, Im sure once they are polished they are going to look fantastic. The arrangements with the seats where they are dropped over spindles seems to me to be very strange but Im assuming this was the method of construction in ?? the 1600s ?
Steve


----------



## Adam W.

That's right the seat design is very English 17th century. I think they will unfortunately end up being painted black/blue, as that's what they want.


----------



## Stevekane

Oh dear, Im sure they will still look good,,,I suppose thats the problem with the work your doing, I see it as art, damian hurst pickles a shark and no one would consider painting it yet your work is fair game,,,history buffs would Im sure be able to explain it in terms of Arts and Crafts,,,in fact I bet its a debate thats been going on for a long time?
All the best,
Steve.


----------



## Adam W.

There's not much that I can do about it, but it would be a shame if they painted them and then didn't like it.....Never mind.


----------



## rogxwhit

Adam W. said:


> Now with ears......
> 
> 
> View attachment 143577
> 
> 
> 
> Nearly ready to be released into the wild...Very different, but both were a joy to make.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 143578



No matter how authentic, it _is_ an odd detail, the seat dropped over the front posts. As long as I gaze at it, it still strikes the eye as a discontinuity ...

Adam I would like to be nosey and ask if the horse-head is to be cast in bronze?


----------



## redefined_cycles

I think I finally get more of an understanding of what 'wood-turning' actually is after seeing the bowls  
Anyway, mine isn't a breakthrough of _ a 'thing'. But managed to figure out how to store lots of 'compiled' timber._

Still need to figure out a way of making it safe. There's 6ft peices but I think I need a little brace in the centre...


----------



## Graham Brazier

Just finished and given to the boss for our 25th wedding anniversary 

I’ve used this forum for ideas and methods to make this box , first one ever for my wife LOL

deffo read and re read custards lining thread which was great 

So thanks to you all , now she feels guilty for having a pop at me for spending so long in the garage / workshop

American burr walnut veneer on the top 
Solid American walnut and maple for the sides 
Pink sued on the inside 
Rubio monocoat 
hardware from ProKraft 
Few mistakes hear and there but adds to its uniqueness LOL 

Now my 5yr d daughter wants a box , o well of to the garage I go


----------



## Adam W.

rogxwhit said:


> No matter how authentic, it _is_ an odd detail, the seat dropped over the front posts. As long as I gaze at it, it still strikes the eye as a discontinuity ...
> 
> Adam I would like to be nosey and ask if the horse-head is to be cast in bronze?


I think it's best not to wonder why, but to just enjoy the design and note how styles change over the years. The next chair I'm making is a scabelli from Lacock, which is even stranger and completely impractical.






I'd like to get the horse head cast in bronze, but my brother in law who is an expert bronze caster is very ill at the moment, so I won't ask although he may offer to do it anyway.


----------



## niall Y

That will be a great challenge. I made a couple of the more simplified versions of these many years ago. No carving, though , but the hoof-like feet and the round dishing to the seatt was still there


----------



## rogxwhit

Adam W. said:


>


!!!!!


----------



## Padster

So - I've been messing with a router sled but have posted that in the Jigs thread, but I wanted something to show for the time spent in the workshop so made a couple of 'leveche' pens









Regards

Padster


----------



## Hino

Made this out of a salvaged Elm slab (with a large crack and quite a bit of cupping), with Oak legs made out of an old table top. 


View attachment 143860
View attachment 143861


----------



## Graham Brazier

My first door using rail and style cutter made for a bathroom cabinet and a shelf to cover the WC system 

Going to add a finger groove in the edge to help with opening the door 

All made from solid Elm ,two different boards bought at different times 

All from around Cambridgeshire from the rustic wood yard 

I’m surprised in the different colours the elm was at the wood yard from brown to s reddy brown


----------



## Jarno

Hino said:


> Made this out of a salvaged Elm slab (with a large crack and quite a bit of cupping), with Oak legs made out of an old table top.
> 
> 
> View attachment 143860
> View attachment 143861
> View attachment 143863
> View attachment 143864
> View attachment 143865


That bowtie looks great! Might have gone for a thinner top, or chamfered on the underside to give a bit more lightness, so it is more in line with the thickness of legs, but still, the top really has character,nice one!


----------



## Adam W.

Finally, they are out galloping around in the wild.......






Would you believe it, my wife now wants one. So that's another little thing to do for the dark winter.


----------



## rogxwhit

Hino said:


> Made this out of a salvaged Elm slab (with a large crack and quite a bit of cupping), with Oak legs made out of an old table top.



Don't suppose you ever saw the elm tree this top came from, but looking at the end grain it must've been a grand old thing!


----------



## Adam W.

Yes, lovely wood, is elm.


----------



## Hino

Jarno said:


> That bowtie looks great! Might have gone for a thinner top, or chamfered on the underside to give a bit more lightness, so it is more in line with the thickness of legs, but still, the top really has character,nice one!


Thanks. I did consider doing a chamfer, but decided against in the end.


----------



## Devmeister

Just knocked out my interpretation of a gerstner tool box to store my Starrett metal working tools. The box is quarter sawn white oak salvaged from a highway project. The drawers feature half blind finger joints as they are to narrow to get more than about one dovetail in them. The walnut was cut a few years ago on a neighbors ranch when he caught some folks trying to steal an old walnut. The lid has Purple Heart banding and the panel has a cherry center panel. The panel hardware was machined from eBay drops in stainless steel, brass and phosphor bronze. Of course many of my woodworking tools beat the Starrett tools into the box. So I am building a second larger box for them now. The front and back top rails are finger jointed while the bottom is dovetailed into the sides. The drawer boxes are maple with Baltic birch bottoms. The Baltic birch was drop from the sushi Rama job we did a couple of years ago. The only thing remaining is the lid hardware and front lock. Looking for brass locks and latches now. I got some latches but turns out they are steel stampings with a thin brass plate. The only locks I have found are skeleton key half mortise locks. Was hoping to find one with a regular cylinder lock.


----------



## Blackswanwood

Earned brownie points with the wife today as she wanted a box to keep her candles in so knocked this up. Perhaps now I know she’s got some candles I can pull the fuses when I go out


----------



## Stigmorgan

Blackswanwood said:


> Earned brownie points with the wife today as she wanted a box to keep her candles in so knocked this up. Perhaps now I know she’s got some candles I can pull the fuses when I go out
> 
> View attachment 144240
> 
> 
> View attachment 144241
> 
> 
> View attachment 144242
> 
> 
> View attachment 144243


You also now know where they are for if you need to do some endngrain sealing on green wood


----------



## Gordon Tarling

Nice work and love the fact that it holds four candles.


----------



## sawtooth-9

Devmeister said:


> View attachment 144143
> 
> Just knocked out my interpretation of a gerstner tool box to store my Starrett metal working tools. The box is quarter sawn white oak salvaged from a highway project. The drawers feature half blind finger joints as they are to narrow to get more than about one dovetail in them. The walnut was cut a few years ago on a neighbors ranch when he caught some folks trying to steal an old walnut. The lid has Purple Heart banding and the panel has a cherry center panel. The panel hardware was machined from eBay drops in stainless steel, brass and phosphor bronze. Of course many of my woodworking tools beat the Starrett tools into the box. So I am building a second larger box for them now. The front and back top rails are finger jointed while the bottom is dovetailed into the sides. The drawer boxes are maple with Baltic birch bottoms. The Baltic birch was drop from the sushi Rama job we did a couple of years ago. The only thing remaining is the lid hardware and front lock. Looking for brass locks and latches now. I got some latches but turns out they are steel stampings with a thin brass plate. The only locks I have found are skeleton key half mortise locks. Was hoping to find one with a regular cylinder lock.


Wow, that's something to be proud of.
Well done !


----------



## clogs

I found quite a few candles in odd places, so tieded up put in a plastic bag.....placed on top of a pile of stuff...
forgot I left the garage door open for a day.....
oops one melted mess....
but on the pos side have alifetimes supply of drawer runner lub....
wish we could get wood like that here.....nice job....


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> You also now know where they are for if you need to do some endngrain sealing on green wood


Also for waxing screws ... Before cordless drills used to be the done thing! 

Anyone still do it??


----------



## Padster

A quick play yesterday whilst I was finishing another project that hope fully I'll post soon...









Regards

Padster


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

Jameshow said:


> Also for waxing screws ... Before cordless drills used to be the done thing!
> 
> Anyone still do it??


Yeap! Even with a cordless drill. Sometimes wax, sometimes fairy liquid, anything that'll act as a lube.
Candle wax on handsaws though. 
Martin


----------



## Padster

So above picture/mentioned pen was made whilst I was finishing another project - well here it is an apple wood coffee table, it was made from a slab of apple wood with quite a bow in it (hence the router sled I made - see jigs thread) - I've included a couple of pics of the other piece that is left, that is planned to be another coffee table but more like a 'river' version that will be a xmas pressie for my daughter - this was the simpler non-river prototype.















Regards

Padster


----------



## Thingybob

MorrisWoodman12 said:


> Yeap! Even with a cordless drill. Sometimes wax, sometimes fairy liquid, anything that'll act as a lube.
> Candle wax on handsaws though.
> Martin


Or waxing frontdoor keys and latch before winter works wonders


----------



## Chunkytfg

2 very different jobs for me

First is a Cutting board that I've been eyeing up in the girlfriends parents house for a while that was in desperate need of some love. Hard to believe the 2 pictures are the same board. Its 30 years old and looks like its spent most of that time in a dishwasher!!!

Secondly is a 'Grow Wall'. A friend saw something similar on Pinterest and asked me if I could make something similar to hide the shed next to their decking. The horizontal slats are all French cleats so the trays can be rearranged depending on what you put in them. Looking forward to seeing it in place and planted up.


----------



## isaac3d

Padster said:


> So above picture/mentioned pen was made whilst I was finishing another project - well here it is an apple wood coffee table, it was made from a slab of apple wood with quite a bow in it (hence the router sled I made - see jigs thread) - I've included a couple of pics of the other piece that is left, that is planned to be another coffee table but more like a 'river' version that will be a xmas pressie for my daughter - this was the simpler non-river prototype.
> 
> View attachment 144283
> View attachment 144287
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster



Nice job Padster. That's a pretty piece of wood, especially as the picture of the starting material doesn't look very promising at all.
I see a price on the timber but it seems to be written in some esoteric script  
Is that 13.60 or 113.60 or something else entirely?


----------



## akirk

Chunkytfg said:


> 2 very different jobs for me
> 
> First is a Cutting board that I've been eyeing up in the girlfriends parents house for a while that was in desperate need of some love. Hard to believe the 2 pictures are the same board. Its 30 years old and looks like its spent most of that time in a dishwasher!!!
> 
> View attachment 144316
> 
> 
> View attachment 144317


what did you do to the board, I have a similar one! just sanded and oiled?


----------



## Padster

isaac3d said:


> Nice job Padster. That's a pretty piece of wood, especially as the picture of the starting material doesn't look very promising at all.
> I see a price on the timber but it seems to be written in some esoteric script
> Is that 13.60 or 113.60 or something else entirely?


It was priced up at 157.60, before discount approx 2.5m long, 0.5m wide, so not exactly cheap but what wood is these days!
Had a feeling it would come up well, came from Yandles where you can self select and if you ask the guy will clean the wood with some water so you can see the grain etc.


----------



## akirk

Padster said:


> It was priced up at 157.60, before discount approx 2.5m long, 0.5m wide, so not exactly cheap but what wood is these days!
> Had a feeling it would come up well, came from Yandles where you can self select and if you ask the guy will clean the wood with some water so you can see the grain etc.


I think I was in there when you were choosing it… we had looked at it and I thought it needed more skill than I had… my wife and I were selecting walnut!


----------



## TRITON

clogs said:


> I found quite a few candles in odd places


When it comes to finding candles in odd places you should always follow the golden rule, as set down by Ian Dury.

"You should never hold a candle, if you don't know where it's been."


----------



## Chunkytfg

akirk said:


> what did you do to the board, I have a similar one! just sanded and oiled?


Yep pretty much. I started with the main faces sanding them but when I got to the juice groove I couldnt be bothered to fight a bit of paper rapped round a dowel so recut them with a router along with the grooves on the edge.


----------



## Padster

akirk said:


> I think I was in there when you were choosing it… we had looked at it and I thought it needed more skill than I had… my wife and I were selecting walnut!


Ah I remember - pleasure to meet you retrospectively !
Love it in there but it always costs me money LOL

Regards

Padster


----------



## akirk

Padster said:


> Ah I remember - pleasure to meet you retrospectively !
> Love it in there but it always costs me money LOL
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster


And you - glad to see the final result!

We went there for two oak shelves 75cm x 15cm
Came back with - 10m of oak shelving for a totally different room / zebrano for the original shelving / random planks of cherry, beech, pear, etc. and a whole load of turning blanks - good thing I took the RR for its roof rack! love that shop...


----------



## Fanous

My first cutting board, also first coat of tung oil. Quite pleased so far. Hope mother in law will appreciate this gift.


----------



## Fanous

Also my first set of coasters, would choose other wood species next time, but overall good learning experience.


----------



## isaac3d

Padster said:


> It was priced up at 157.60, before discount approx 2.5m long, 0.5m wide, so not exactly cheap but what wood is these days!
> Had a feeling it would come up well, came from Yandles where you can self select and if you ask the guy will clean the wood with some water so you can see the grain etc.


Yandles is a long way from me, so I don't go there often, but when I do, I end up buying a lot of wood. 
Indeed, wood is certainly not cheap these days. Part of me says ".. and that is as it should be!" The other part of me says.... "but I want to buy more wood!!"
So I tend to plank up freshly felled timber and try to wait patiently!


----------



## Padster

isaac3d said:


> Yandles is a long way from me, so I don't go there often, but when I do, I end up buying a lot of wood.
> Indeed, wood is certainly not cheap these days. Part of me says ".. and that is as it should be!" The other part of me says.... "but I want to buy more wood!!"
> So I tend to plank up freshly felled timber and try to wait patiently!


Yep we generally only go if we’ve been in Devon or Cornwall on holiday…. Although I’ve toyed with a day trip occasionally lol


----------



## Cooper

Adam W. said:


> Finally, they are out galloping around in the wild.......
> 
> View attachment 144057
> 
> 
> Would you believe it, my wife now wants one. So that's another little thing to do for the dark winter.


Has she sat on it, they are beautiful but I bet they aren‘t as comfortable as contemporary Danish furniture,


----------



## Drifter2406




----------



## Jameshow

Drifter2406 said:


> View attachment 144407


Nothing drifter about that ! 

Good work!


----------



## Drifter2406

Jameshow said:


> Nothing grifter about that !
> 
> Good work!


Thank you.


----------



## thetyreman

Drifter2406 said:


> View attachment 144407


very tidy work!


----------



## ScottyT

See the build start to finish. Took me around 4 weeks give or take a few days to finish.








Here we go again with some curves







www.ukworkshop.co.uk


----------



## Adam W.

Cooper said:


> Has she sat on it, they are beautiful but I bet they aren‘t as comfortable as contemporary Danish furniture,


Well no, she hasn't sat on them, because she's here and they are off to get a few coats of lovely black gloss oil paint. Which I refused point blank to do, of course.


----------



## niall Y

ScottyT said:


> View attachment 144439
> 
> 
> See the build start to finish. Took me around 4 weeks give or take a few days to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we go again with some curves
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ukworkshop.co.uk


Congratulations, that is some 'classy' structure!


----------



## Stigmorgan

ScottyT said:


> View attachment 144439
> 
> 
> See the build start to finish. Took me around 4 weeks give or take a few days to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we go again with some curves
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ukworkshop.co.uk


Thats pure wood porn


----------



## Thingybob

ScottyT said:


> View attachment 144439
> 
> 
> See the build start to finish. Took me around 4 weeks give or take a few days to finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we go again with some curves
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ukworkshop.co.uk


A work of art


----------



## David with splinters

My first guitar build. Will try to share regular progress updates if anyone is interested.


----------



## Jameshow

Working on Santa sleigh 

Just doing Mach 25 stress testing!


----------



## thetyreman

David with splinters said:


> My first guitar build. Will try to share regular progress updates if anyone is interested.


I'm definitely interested! cheers.


----------



## Orraloon

David with splinters said:


> My first guitar build. Will try to share regular progress updates if anyone is interested.


Always up for a guitar build. Thats a nice looking bit of wood for the body.
Regards
John


----------



## Fitzroy

I’m going to build my brother a desk for his 50th. Frame will be ebonised oak, starting to test how the process works. Pretty happy using Richard Maguire’s method, with Osmo over the top.


----------



## Thingybob

Jameshow said:


> Working on Santa sleigh
> 
> Just doing Mach 25 stress testing!


Nice one i dare you to leave it on the roof for christmas morning


----------



## Stigmorgan

Nothing particularly special but having been out of the makerspace for a few months I managed to find a spare couple of hours yesterday and the trunk from last year's school Xmas tree caught my eye and I thought it would be cool to make an Xmas tree out of an Xmas tree, the base is an iroko pallet block, not sure I like the nail holes in it though so may make another base in the future. No finish on this yet, I want to see if it moves at all then I'll add an oil finish.


----------



## Jonzjob

I have been looking into turning planlks in to bowls and I have to admit that I like theresults. In fact I seem to have a small set of them now A 4, a 3 and a 2









Just from a couple of off cuts from a local joiner/cabinet maker. The 2 was cut on my bandsaw using a method from an American bloke on youtube, but I much prefer doing it all on the lathe, apart from cutting out the blank that is


----------



## PaulArthur

Fitzroy said:


> I’m going to build my brother a desk for his 50th. Frame will be ebonised oak, starting to test how the process works. Pretty happy using Richard Maguire’s method, with Osmo over the top.


Are you building the industrial desk from his video series? I’m just finishing off one of those for my son - the base and drawer is all done, I’m just waiting for the finish to dry properly on the top before I put it together and let it loose. 

I tried a year or so ago with that ebony song method and found it to be a really grim process, and really messy, so I opted for India Ink instead.


----------



## clogs

Stigmorgan.
the tree is just great....
where the hell do u get hard wood pallet blocks....?
here it's either [email protected] pine or chipboard blocks.....!!!!!! lol.......
keep the photo's comming pls.....


----------



## Stigmorgan

clogs said:


> Stigmorgan.
> the tree is just great....
> where the hell do u get hard wood pallet blocks....?
> here it's either [email protected] pine or chipboard blocks.....!!!!!! lol.......
> keep the photo's comming pls.....


They are a rare find, I'm lucky, I work in a school so we get lots of deliveries on pallets and our paper supplier is literally 5 minute walk away with a Haulage company next door to them, they let me have a look through their scrap pallets now and then.


----------



## Fitzroy

PaulArthur said:


> Are you building the industrial desk from his video series? I’m just finishing off one of those for my son - the base and drawer is all done, I’m just waiting for the finish to dry properly on the top before I put it together and let it loose.
> 
> I tried a year or so ago with that ebony song method and found it to be a really grim process, and really messy, so I opted for India Ink instead.


Just my own design but want a black frame. I’d seen India ink mentioned in my research, may have to get some and try it out for comparison.


----------



## Blackswanwood

American Black Walnut and Pepperwood jewellery box …


----------



## Stigmorgan

Not sure this counts but today I spent 2 hours turning a tree into a messy fence, the ground below the schools perimeter fence has gradually sunken over the years producing some very big gaps in places, my original plan was to car some heavy logs across site from the wildlife garden to block the gaps (it only needs to be temporary until our new fence is installed in the new year) after a couple of trips I decided it would be easier to get my hand saw and cut up the 2 huge limbs that an oak tree had decided to dump into the field, I'm fairly happy with it and there's some nice bits for the lathe left to harvest later. As a temporary fix I'm pretty happy with it and it's cleared up the mess made by the 2 dead limbs.


----------



## Stigmorgan

A rather nice (if I do say so myself ) pot pouri pot, cherry log and iroko board laminated together with a pewter lid and finished with Danish Oil


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> A rather nice (if I do say so myself ) pot pouri pot, cherry log and iroko board laminated together with a pewter lid and finished with Danish Oil
> View attachment 145241
> View attachment 145242
> View attachment 145243
> View attachment 145244


So nice! 

Done any work today!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> So nice!
> 
> Done any work today!


Quite a bit actually  opened up school, replaced 2 faulty taps in children's toilets, greeted 427 children as they came into school, took the strimmer out and did half the school perimeter, unblocked a toilet on my way out of school, took my dogs for a walk, made the pot then made dinner, back to work to check emails, fix another broken tap and then lock up and go home


----------



## Adam W.

The National Theater in London has a green book where they try and use natural materials as much as possible in their costume department.

They are currently experimenting with some oak dye that I made over the summer. A fun process requiring the intake of a goodly amount of G&T, only for the tonic bottles, you understand.

Mash on the go.








Bottling up after a session of G&T therapy.







In the bath at the NT.....it seems to be working a treat.






©Liz Kitchensink

I'll make some elm dye next, as it is known to give a nice pink colour.


----------



## kgill

Made this as a late (oops!) 50th birthday present for my sister. 
Beech and sapele (off cuts, but don’t tell my sister! ) finished with Danish oil.


----------



## David with splinters

guitar build stage 2 complete. Neck roughed out. Trussrod and fretboard next.


----------



## Jameshow

Got to sail the lockdown built model yacht!


----------



## Thingybob

Jameshow said:


> View attachment 145455
> View attachment 145456
> 
> 
> Got to sail the lockdown built model yacht!


Nice bit of workman ship no pun intended . Ah the days of cheep and simple pleasures


----------



## Joe1975

cgarry said:


> View attachment 28525
> 
> 
> Possibly not quite up to the standard of others on the forum, but I am just beginning at this woodworking game!


This is absolutely beautiful. I love how you have formed a wedge shape. The natural finish is perfect for showing all the wear and tear. Just think that the angle is too steep, and the wedge too thick, unless of course you have gaps that thick under your doors.


----------



## Cordy

Bought some cheap 9 x 1 inch Pine and 3 mm Perspex to make a few garden Trugs.
Wife took one round to neighbour. she said "Oh, great; I just need a magazine rack"
Likewise, one for son's father-in-law
The pint cup is to give an idea of size


----------



## Bingy man

Made a small cabinet for the days out fishing/ plywood leftover from boarding out my mates man cave and tiles from a new bathroom several years ago .


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

Cordy said:


> Bought some cheap 9 x 1 inch Pine and 3 mm Perspex to make a few garden Trugs.
> Wife took one round to neighbour. she said "Oh, great; I just need a magazine rack"
> Likewise, one for son's father-in-law
> The pint cup is to give an idea of size
> View attachment 145496
> 
> View attachment 145497
> View attachment 145498
> View attachment 145499



Brilliant, it's just big enough for half a dozen bottles of wine. Reminds me of the milk bottle carriers of yesteryear. Oh! Sorry! I thought this was the joke thread looking for a new home especially as it's 'real' home seems to have migrated away from anything remotely funny. 

Honestly though, I can see it's a multi purpose design. Nicely done and quite stylish.


----------



## Lefley

Jameshow said:


> View attachment 145455
> View attachment 145456
> 
> 
> Got to sail the lockdown built model yacht!


Is it remote control?


----------



## Cordy

@
MorrisWoodman12​Yes, it's a multi-purpose creation.
Prototype - for young grand-children - was an A4 size 2 mm Perspex (cut in two) effort to demonstrate root & shoot growth of a Broad Bean seed; it received a luke warm reception


----------



## Blackswanwood

Having made my wife a box for her candles (cue Ronnie Barker Jokes ) she requested (instructed) that I made some to be given as Christmas presents so I raided the scrap pile.

Left to right:
ABW
Sycamore
Oak
Cherry
Ash


----------



## Hornbeam

Nice . I like the grain on the ash lid, How much quicker do you think it was batch making
Ian


----------



## Jameshow

Lefley said:


> Is it remote control?


Yes although the rudder was too stiff and the sails too large for the wind conditions. So was very much uncontrolled!!


----------



## Fitzroy

Blackswanwood said:


> Having made my wife a box for her candles (cue Ronnie Barker Jokes ) she requested (instructed) that I made some to be given as Christmas presents so I raided the scrap pile.
> 
> Left to right:
> ABW
> Sycamore
> Oak
> Cherry
> Ash
> 
> View attachment 145618
> 
> 
> View attachment 145619



Lovely! Ash, sycamore then ABW are my top three. Not that you asked


----------



## Blackswanwood

Hornbeam said:


> Nice . I like the grain on the ash lid, How much quicker do you think it was batch making
> Ian


Thanks Ian. I have just totted it up and I spent twice the time making five than it took to make the original one. Some of that improvement in productivity will be down to faffing around on the first one and I also did the sliding lids on these on the router table rather than by hand.


----------



## Reffc

A pair of my RFC Cheviots which a chap drove almost 600 miles to pick up! 90lbs per cab. Brich ply cabs, American Black Walnut veneer with solud Walnut mitred frame into which a grille frame fits, secured by neodimium magnets bonded into front baffle beneath veneer. Liberon fine finishing oil finish followed by several burnish coats of Black Bison wax to create a subtle lustre.


----------



## schnapps95

Our workshop has just completed a pair of doors (replacement for old Victorian ones) on a public building. They are are 9 feet high, made using utile timber


----------



## [email protected]

Table, combining the (reshaped) legs from one table with the top of another table. All solid oak, finished with Osmo. The table will be stored in the garage during winter. To this end, the legs are removable - they are held in place with two wedges that are visible in the close up picture. This works better than my first try which yielded an unstable table.
Buying furniture second-hand is a great way to obtain wood for a small price here - typically less than €25 for a piece.

(Also posted this on the “Something you have recycled thread” - not sure where it belongs....)


----------



## Hornbeam

schnapps95 said:


> Our workshop has just completed a pair of doors (replacement for old Victorian ones) on a public building. They are are 9 feet high, made using utile timber


Absolutely fantastic joinery. Stunning


----------



## Hallelujahal

My first ever Gonk. Just a bit of fun  and made missus smile


----------



## Lefley

Hallelujahal said:


> My first ever Gonk. Just a bit of fun  and made missus smile


I love Gonks! Good job!


----------



## rob1693

Another gonk


----------



## Lefley

[email protected] said:


> Table, combining the (reshaped) legs from one table with the top of another table. All solid oak, finished with Osmo. The table will be stored in the garage during winter. To this end, the legs are removable - they are held in place with two wedges that are visible in the close up picture. This works better than my first try which yielded an unstable table.
> Buying furniture second-hand is a great way to obtain wood for a small price here - typically less than €25 for a piece.
> 
> (Also posted this on the “Something you have recycled thread” - not sure where it belongs....)
> View attachment 145699
> View attachment 145700


25$ for solid oak. If you parted that table out like a used car. You have a lot of good wood there. You could never buy it for that in the store. I see 8 pepper mills in those legs , lol. Through the eyes of a wood turner!


----------



## clogs

just wish I could find wood/furniture like that here.........
found a beat up 1/2 rotten pine trunk at the bins...the sides are around 20inches X wide 1/2 thick....
one peice of wood.....!!!!!!!! unobtainium now......


----------



## Molynoox

PaulArthur said:


> I needed a cabinet to hide all the kids’ toys. Came up with an idea for the doors and went from there I picked something that I thought might be quite quick because if the repeatable actions, but they actually ended up taking me ages!
> 
> I’m almost happy with the result, and the toys are gone.
> View attachment 143596
> 
> 
> View attachment 143597
> 
> View attachment 143598
> 
> View attachment 143599


I love this, great contrast in wood and nicely executed


----------



## Jameshow

Certainly feels that long!! 

Need to get out in workshop 

Needs insulating tbh.


----------



## Reffc

schnapps95 said:


> Our workshop has just completed a pair of doors (replacement for old Victorian ones) on a public building. They are are 9 feet high, made using utile timber
> 
> View attachment 145645


Stunning piece of work


----------



## thetyreman

made myself a router base, yes a power router! planning on using it to make some electric guitars and will be making jigs soon, it's a bit rough and took 3 attempts, hence the holes.


----------



## Dynamite

I’ve just made some Christmas ornaments for my family. A melting snowman! Inspired from YouTubes April Wilkerson…

Regards… Rob


----------



## Woodwork Journey Dean

Still making it to be honest but it’s taking forever!
Got thrown off by having to fix a knackered raising and lowering of the blade mechanism in the saw, also customising my fence to work on the newer longer rail that someone kindly gifted me

I’ve still got more to do with banding, edging, finishing and later inlay work, but it’s a significant upgrade from my previous cabinet for my old Axminster TS250


----------



## Padster

So making the jam jig to make this Zebrano apple took me more times and effort than the actual apple 















Regards

Padster


----------



## Shan

Padster said:


> So making the jam jig to make this Zebrano apple took me more times and effort than the actual apple
> 
> View attachment 145910
> View attachment 145911
> View attachment 145912
> View attachment 145913
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster


Nice finish on it an all. Well done. 🖒🖒🖒


----------



## Dynamite

Made another scrap wood cart from scrap wood.

Regards… Rob


----------



## Graham Brazier

Tray made from Elm , lots of cracks and splits filled with epoxy so I could use the wood 
had fun doing the dovetails ( not done them for a long time ) 
Mrs B wants a few other things now which is good for me LOL


----------



## Jameshow

Graham Brazier said:


> Tray made from Elm , lots of cracks and splits filled with epoxy so I could use the wood
> had fun doing the dovetails ( not done them for a long time )
> Mrs B wants a few other things now which is good for me LOL


Nice to get back to it?!


----------



## Graham Brazier

Jameshow said:


> Nice to get back to it?!



Yes deffo enjoyed it


----------



## Fanous

Just finished few projects, as we travel to meet our family. We are loaded with gifts... Lots of firts-time things here. Never done a cutting board, or bor, or lining. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Hopefully these will get appreciated.


----------



## Fanous

@custard Thanks for your tutorial 'how to line box'. Hope you approve


----------



## Andy's Shed

As a newcomer to woodworking here's my first build using hardwood and not plywood, it's just an oak spice rack but I was a bag of nerves doing my first box joints and routing the dados. I'm very happy with the end result.


----------



## Graham Brazier

Opps , error my bad


----------



## Graham Brazier

Very nice , like the idea 



Andy's Shed said:


> As a newcomer to woodworking here's my first build using hardwood and not plywood, it's just an oak spice rack but I was a bag of nerves doing my first box joints and routing the dados. I'm very happy with the end result.
> 
> View attachment 146183
> 
> 
> View attachment 146184
> 
> 
> View attachment 146185
> 
> 
> View attachment 146186


----------



## Graham Brazier

Very nice 
I like the ring holders how did you make them

The pull up piece of material looks a neat idea also what’s it made off 





Fanous said:


> Just finished few projects, as we travel to meet our family. We are loaded with gifts... Lots of firts-time things here. Never done a cutting board, or bor, or lining. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Hopefully these will get appreciated.


----------



## Fanous

Graham Brazier said:


> Very nice
> I like the ring holders how did you make them
> 
> The pull up piece of material looks a neat idea also what’s it made off


Thanks, I did the box, and lining of it in general. My missus sorted the ring holder itself - foam sheet cut to strips, bent around in half (along the long side) and held together by double sided tape. And then wrapped in the lining material. I wasn't there watching her do it, so I don't know the details of it all.

Not sure what you call the pull up material? If the tray itself, then that's wallnut box. If the red lining, that's a pigsuede. I bought it here. If you wanna know how to work with it, best follow this guide


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Andy's Shed said:


> As a newcomer to woodworking here's my first build using hardwood and not plywood, it's just an oak spice rack but I was a bag of nerves doing my first box joints and routing the dados. I'm very happy with the end result.


That's lovely that. Very nice indeed. Love the acorn detail. 
You can tell that it was needed too owing to the fact that you have two perfectly serviceable jars of chilli and paprika spicy chip seasoning and fennel seeds. The previously haphazard storage must have led to a repeat buy 


Dados=Housings in the UK.


----------



## Graham Brazier

Hi , yes I followed custards post when doing my wife’s jewellery box it’s a great method 

What I should have said was the handle for the pullout tray ( think I was tired LOL ) 

It’s in the photo , I assume it’s just trapped /glued to the tray just wondered what material you used 








Fanous said:


> Thanks, I did the box, and lining of it in general. My missus sorted the ring holder itself - foam sheet cut to strips, bent around in half (along the long side) and held together by double sided tape. And then wrapped in the lining material. I wasn't there watching her do it, so I don't know the details of it all.
> 
> Not sure what you call the pull up material? If the tray itself, then that's wallnut box. If the red lining, that's a pigsuede. I bought it here. If you wanna know how to work with it, best follow this guide


----------



## Andy's Shed

blackteaonesugar said:


> That's lovely that. Very nice indeed. Love the acorn detail.
> You can tell that it was needed too owing to the fact that you have two perfectly serviceable jars of chilli and paprika spicy chip seasoning and fennel seeds. The previously haphazard storage must have led to a repeat buy
> 
> 
> Dados=Housings in the UK.


You're not kidding, I still have other spice jars in the cupboard! 

Housings, Aha! I didn't know that, I think I've watched too many American videos on YouTube


----------



## Stigmorgan

Another pot pouri pot, this time I used iroko board top and bottom of my last puece of cherry , it came off the lathe a couple of times, the iroko is so dry that trying to mount it on a recess rather than a tenon failed twice, 3rd time I used a tenon and continued gently hollowing out the cherry then glued the top board on and shaped that, sanded to 320 then abrasive paste and finished with hard wax. I love how the iroko shines when finished with wax.


----------



## Fanous

Graham Brazier said:


> Hi , yes I followed custards post when doing my wife’s jewellery box it’s a great method
> 
> What I should have said was the handle for the pullout tray ( think I was tired LOL )
> 
> It’s in the photo , I assume it’s just trapped /glued to the tray just wondered what material you used


Oh I see... I've routed a little shallow U shape groove to the side of the board (before gluing the tray), and used 2 part epoxy to glue the ends if the strap in. The goal was to have it strongly fixed in place, and also flush, so it wouldn't interfere with the lining.


----------



## Jmontc

making a bunch of Christmas stars out of old bed slats for our Men’s shed stall at a craft fair


----------



## Graham Brazier

like that idea 
THANK YOU





Fanous said:


> Oh I see... I've routed a little shallow U shape groove to the side of the board (before gluing the tray), and used 2 part epoxy to glue the ends if the strap in. The goal was to have it strongly fixed in place, and also flush, so it wouldn't interfere with the lining.


----------



## Jameshow

Jmontc said:


> making a bunch of Christmas stars out of old bed slats for our Men’s shed stall at a craft fair


Do you have the angles to hand?!


----------



## Jmontc

If you go on to Pinterest and find an instructables post “ how to make a 24 inch wooden star with a 2 x 4 “ you will get the best instructions for making these stars. this guy has worked out how to reduce errors in cutting angles rather than compound them ( there are 20 angles to cut - so a 0.5 degree error could lead to a compound error of 20 x 0.5 = 10 degrees! Anyhow, the key is to make the jig to cut the 18 degree angles, join the first two pieces together to make 5 “ petals” and use the jig again to cut the remaining angles. The jig angle can be accurately set using a 40 x 13 ratio rather than using a small protractor. 
i use a minimum of 16 mm thick material to get a good pocket hole fixing.


----------



## Jmontc

I would not recommend trying to cut the angles on a mitre saw


----------



## Doris

Santa's workshop comission just finished this afternoon. The workshop itself is made from reclaimed oak flooring, figures are carved from chopsticks mostly, flooring is coffee stirrers, some other bits and pieces made from lolly sticks too.


----------



## stuckinthemud

Wow, superb! Must have taken ages


----------



## Joschua

It is just a tiny project. In Germany it is called "Stricklisl". One part of this word is "stricken" and means knitting. And the other part "lisl" is a nickname or casual for the Name "Lisa". I build it for my daughter, because she likes to learn knitting. This is a good tool for children to learn. Build from scratch and nails.


----------



## gregmcateer

Doris, that Santa's workshop is astonishing! The patience!?!?


----------



## Alex H

Doris said:


> View attachment 146410
> View attachment 146411
> View attachment 146412
> 
> 
> Santa's workshop comission just finished this afternoon. The workshop itself is made from reclaimed oak flooring, figures are carved from chopsticks mostly, flooring is coffee stirrers, some other bits and pieces made from lolly sticks too.


That's great!

How big is it?


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

@Doris What a wonderful Santa's Workshop. Must have taken you ages and such patience. Glad to see there is a mad rocking horse there in the front.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Joschua said:


> It is just a tiny project. In Germany it is called "Stricklisl". One part of this word is "stricken" and means knitting. And the other part "lisl" is a nickname or casual for the Name "Lisa". I build it for my daughter, because she likes to learn knitting. This is a good tool for children to learn. Build from scratch and nails.
> 
> View attachment 146413


French knitting - they used to be made from cotton reels when I was a child.


----------



## Joschua

Phil Pascoe said:


> French knitting - they used to be made from cotton reels when I was a child.


Thanks for sharing. I tried to find the English word but did not find it.


----------



## Hutzul

Joschua said:


> It is just a tiny project. In Germany it is called "Stricklisl". One part of this word is "stricken" and means knitting. And the other part "lisl" is a nickname or casual for the Name "Lisa". I build it for my daughter, because she likes to learn knitting. This is a good tool for children to learn. Build from scratch and nails.
> 
> View attachment 146413


I recall using one of these many, many years ago. I think we called them French Knitters. I might make one as a mystery object. 
Thanks for sharing Joschua.
​


----------



## D_W

seaton chest chisels - two of a set that I have been very tardy in completing. They're for a professional woodworker here in the states, so not moving them along is inconsiderate, I guess, but it's also not like i charge for chisels, either, so I don't know what's bad manners in such a case.











the unusual thing about these chisels aside from the fact that they look like carving tools is that they are .06" thick at the bevel end.

the bevels make it look like they're not as thin as they are, but the bevels themselves are just really shallow to create that illusion.

They're not perfect copies of the seaton pictures, but they're close.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Today I made some money   sold both my two cherry and iroko pots with pewter lids for £100, was amazed, I only listed them yesterday, my first big sale 
I also started a little bowl from an extremely dry and punky piece of spalted sycamore, I almost added the piece to the firewood pile, I'll post some pics when it's finished.


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> Today I made some money   sold both my two cherry and iroko pots with pewter lids for £100, was amazed, I only listed them yesterday, my first big sale
> I also started a little bowl from an extremely dry and punky piece of spalted sycamore, I almost added the piece to the firewood pile, I'll post some pics when it's finished.


I've got some cherry if you could use it?!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> I've got some cherry if you could use it?!


I'd love it, how would we get it here? I'm just outside Farnborough/Aldershot.


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> I'd love it, how would we get it here? I'm just outside Farnborough/Aldershot.


When I'm passing I could drop off? Not sure when. Next down to Ringwood Dorset. Would be latish Friday night 10 ish.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> When I'm passing I could drop off? Not sure when. Next down to Ringwood Dorset. Would be latish Friday night 10 ish.


That would be amazing  I'll P.M you my address.


----------



## Joschua

Hutzul said:


> I recall using one of these many, many years ago. I think we called them French Knitters. I might make one as a mystery object.
> Thanks for sharing Joschua.
> ​


The metal loops have to be longer and wider! My version is to small! Width 8 mm, Longness 10 mm.


----------



## BCS1980UK

Greetings,
This is my first post here and I am relatively new to woodworking.
This is an English Elm coffee table finished with Danish Oil:


----------



## Lefley

BCS1980UK said:


> Greetings,
> This is my first post here and I am relatively new to woodworking.
> This is an English Elm coffee table finished with Danish Oil:
> View attachment 146481
> View attachment 146482
> View attachment 146483


Which type of rail system is that? Beautiful table!


----------



## BCS1980UK

Lefley said:


> Which type of rail system is that? Beautiful table!


Thank you, Lefley
The rails are called Linear Rails. Those are from a company called Vevor but many other companies produce them. You can find on amazon. Those are 20mm but I believe you can also find them with 16mm rails (I think).


----------



## Tris

Joschua said:


> Thanks for sharing. I tried to find the English word but did not find it.


Also known as a knitting Nancy or knitting dolly, depends on the region


----------



## Lefley

BCS1980UK said:


> Thank you, Lefley
> The rails are called Linear Rails. Those are from a company called Vevor but many other companies produce them. You can find on amazon. Those are 20mm but I believe you can also find them with 16mm rails (I think).


Wow, thank you. I've been looking at the woodpecker system at 1500$ . Bulking at the price , not buying it. Making a make shift plywood system that sort of worked. This is a nice alternative that I can afford.


----------



## BCS1980UK

Lefley said:


> Wow, thank you. I've been looking at the woodpecker system at 1500$ . Bulking at the price , not buying it. Making a make shift plywood system that sort of worked. This is a nice alternative that I can afford.


Happy to help. That was supposed to be a prototype but I am pleased with the result. That's by no means an original idea, as I copied it from several YouTube videos. The running carts have a locking hex bolt on the side so you can lock for example the X axys or the Y axys and make sure that the router runs in a straight line. If done right It is great for squaring the wood.


----------



## Gbobo

I dropped off this trolley for the client last night. It was the first time combining these acrylic rods and timber but very happy with how it came out.


----------



## Dr Al

Today I finished making a knife. It started out as a two day course at Oldfield Forge in Herefordshire, then a few days at home adding the final bevel, redrilling two of the handle holes, giving it a bath in cheap & nasty (and hence acidic) coffee to bring out the grain, then shaping and fitting (with epoxy and stainless steel pins) a walnut handle. A very satisfying project, but a *lot *of sanding!


----------



## Skydivermel

wallace said:


> I made this wardrobe for my mrs to house her ever increasing bag collection. I learnt a lot making this and got a load of browny points.


Nice job. she's got to many handbags.


----------



## Stigmorgan

So today I finished the spalted sycamore bowl I started yesterday, I absolutely love this stuff when it's finished but it's so punky it's a PITA to get a good cut so end up hitting it with 40g paper to get rid of the tear out then up to 320g abrasive paste and hard wax finish, the inside was pretty much the same except I left it a couple mm thicker than I wanted it as its so dry I was worried about it exploding then I used 40g to sand it back to the thickness I wanted.




Your browser is not able to display this video.




















After that I decided to start roughing out some Xmas decorations ready for the schools Xmas fair in a couple weeks, 2 bigger trees made from Ash and coloured with colouring pencil, 4 tiny trees that need drilling at the tip for some string then they can be finished with a little oil of some sort or I may leave them plain to let the children colour them for themselves


----------



## Joschua

Dr Al said:


> Today I finished making a knife. It started out as a two day course at Oldfield Forge in Herefordshire, then a few days at home adding the final bevel, redrilling two of the handle holes, giving it a bath in cheap & nasty (and hence acidic) coffee to bring out the grain, then shaping and fitting (with epoxy and stainless steel pins) a walnut handle. A very satisfying project, but a *lot *of sanding!
> 
> View attachment 146545
> 
> 
> View attachment 146546
> 
> 
> View attachment 146547
> 
> 
> View attachment 146548
> 
> 
> View attachment 146549
> 
> 
> View attachment 146550


nice one!


----------



## Mike.R

Finished today, a cupboard and a coat rack.


----------



## sawtooth-9

Wow


Dr Al said:


> Today I finished making a knife. It started out as a two day course at Oldfield Forge in Herefordshire, then a few days at home adding the final bevel, redrilling two of the handle holes, giving it a bath in cheap & nasty (and hence acidic) coffee to bring out the grain, then shaping and fitting (with epoxy and stainless steel pins) a walnut handle. A very satisfying project, but a *lot *of sanding!
> 
> View attachment 146545
> 
> 
> View attachment 146546
> 
> 
> View attachment 146547
> 
> 
> View attachment 146548
> 
> 
> View attachment 146549
> 
> 
> View attachment 146550


Wow, that is something REALLY special.
Would love to know more about the process that produced this beautiful result.
What steel have you used - Damascus ?
I just love the bringing together metal and wood.
To me, this is a stunning result - well done.
Please send instructions !


----------



## clogs

stigmorgan
love ur stuff.......shame about the music.......

why is it everytime u watch a drama etc on TV u have [email protected] jazz......does anyone really like it.....?
it's the only music, if u can call it that, where u can add or drop a note and nobody notices.....
my wife just mutes the jazz on dramas now.....or I'll walk off n go to bed.....hahaha.......


----------



## Doris

stuckinthemud said:


> Wow, superb! Must have taken ages





gregmcateer said:


> Doris, that Santa's workshop is astonishing! The patience!?!?



Thank you  4 months it took altogether. But I think that was a bit here and then but near the end was pretty intense and working on it almost everyday



Alex H said:


> That's great!
> 
> How big is it?



Thanks it's 8" tall to the roof's apex. Most figures are made to something that's been referred to as circus scale which is about 00 scale and about 1" tall (might be more as I don't have them anymore to give you an exact measurement)



MorrisWoodman12 said:


> @Doris What a wonderful Santa's Workshop. Must have taken you ages and such patience. Glad to see there is a mad rocking horse there in the front.



The rocking horse was fun to make. I had to use my own hair for the mane in the end as I couldn't find anything that fine!


----------



## Dr Al

sawtooth-9 said:


> Wow
> 
> Wow, that is something REALLY special.
> Would love to know more about the process that produced this beautiful result.
> What steel have you used - Damascus ?
> I just love the bringing together metal and wood.
> To me, this is a stunning result - well done.
> Please send instructions !



It started off as four square pieces of EN45, at a guess they were about 60 mm square and 6 mm thick. They were heated up and hammered together (with a power hammer, although I'd guess a fly press could to the same job), with the scale scrubbed off and lots of borax poured on the joins every time to stop impurities & oxidisation of the joint. Once they were properly welded together, the shape was drawn out into a long cuboid and the central portion had the corners hit to turn it into an octagon and then a hexadecagon. The square sections at the end were then held in a leg vice and a clamp and it was twisted round and round and round (about 20 times I think).

After that, it was gradually shaped to form a knife shape (mostly with a hand hammer this time), then left to cool very slowly in some vermiculite overnight. Then it was ground to roughly the right shape (leaving the bevel a millimetre or two thick to stop distortion) & heat treated. There was then about 3 hours of hand sanding before it went into a bath of ferric chloride for 1/2 hour to bring out the pattern. That's the point when I brought it home.

At home, I ground the bevel (with a water cooled grinder), redrilled two of the holes in the handle (as I wasn't happy with the position) and dunked it in some very cheap and very strongly brewed instant coffee. That was a bit acidic and brought the colour back into the ground bevel.

Final job was fitting the handle, sharpening and oiling the handle.

Hope that all makes sense.


----------



## DavidConnelly




----------



## pulleyt

Still looking for projects that I can add kumiko work. So this is a mirror frame as a birthday present for my partner. 






The frame is from a lump of beech that's been sitting in the store for ages. I quite like the plainness of the beech against the kumiko.

This is a closer look at one of the sides






Now to get on with the Christmas presents ( yes, they do involve kumiko )


----------



## Stigmorgan

clogs said:


> stigmorgan
> love ur stuff.......shame about the music.......
> 
> why is it everytime u watch a drama etc on TV u have [email protected] jazz......does anyone really like it.....?
> it's the only music, if u can call it that, where u can add or drop a note and nobody notices.....
> my wife just mutes the jazz on dramas now.....or I'll walk off n go to bed.....hahaha.......



Thanks clogs, that's not jazz though its Schubert on classical fm radio, I always listen to it when I'm working


----------



## --Tom--

Dr Al said:


> It started off as four square pieces of EN45, at a guess they were about 60 mm square and 6 mm thick. They were heated up and hammered together (with a power hammer, although I'd guess a fly press could to the same job), with the scale scrubbed off and lots of borax poured on the joins every time to stop impurities & oxidisation of the joint. Once they were properly welded together, the shape was drawn out into a long cuboid and the central portion had the corners hit to turn it into an octagon and then a hexadecagon. The square sections at the end were then held in a leg vice and a clamp and it was twisted round and round and round (about 20 times I think).
> 
> After that, it was gradually shaped to form a knife shape (mostly with a hand hammer this time), then left to cool very slowly in some vermiculite overnight. Then it was ground to roughly the right shape (leaving the bevel a millimetre or two thick to stop distortion) & heat treated. There was then about 3 hours of hand sanding before it went into a bath of ferric chloride for 1/2 hour to bring out the pattern. That's the point when I brought it home.
> 
> At home, I ground the bevel (with a water cooled grinder), redrilled two of the holes in the handle (as I wasn't happy with the position) and dunked it in some very cheap and very strongly brewed instant coffee. That was a bit acidic and brought the colour back into the ground bevel.
> 
> Final job was fitting the handle, sharpening and oiling the handle.
> 
> Hope that all makes sense.


Probably a bit of 15n20 as alternating layers with the en45, the nickel content helps it remains bright in the etch whereas the en45 darkens


----------



## Adam W.

Oak lath and lime plaster ceilings & Leca blocks in lime mortar. 1st. coat of three coat work.

Shonky lath.....I blame the bloke who made it and nailed it up.


----------



## Jmontc

Jmontc said:


> making a bunch of Christmas stars out of old bed slats for our Men’s shed stall at a craft fair


Here I am using the original jig to cut the second angle on the petals and connectping them with pocket hole screws


----------



## rafezetter

Dr Al said:


> Today I finished making a knife. It started out as a two day course at Oldfield Forge in Herefordshire, then a few days at home adding the final bevel, redrilling two of the handle holes, giving it a bath in cheap & nasty (and hence acidic) coffee to bring out the grain, then shaping and fitting (with epoxy and stainless steel pins) a walnut handle. A very satisfying project, but a *lot *of sanding!
> 
> View attachment 146545
> 
> 
> View attachment 146546
> 
> 
> View attachment 146547
> 
> 
> View attachment 146548
> 
> 
> View attachment 146549
> 
> 
> View attachment 146550


Curious grain to the "damascus" (but not really) steel - how was the billet formed and drawn and from what? Cannister or sections of different steels? It's quite unusual to have such a marked delineation of grain, normally far more "uniform", limited as that gets in damascus steel.

It looks likes the billet was just twisted, if so I think the billet was formed the wrong way, the tang will probably have a lot of the twist so that section should have been drawn as the blade with the non twisted section used as the handle to make the twist, should have been the tang.

"Tang" not handle

"Scales" not handles

Very nice heirloom meat carver otherwise, you should make a box for it, but don't line it with velvet, I'm sure I read somewhere that it is mildly acidic in nature from the manufacturing.


----------



## rafezetter

pulleyt said:


> Still looking for projects that I can add kumiko work. So this is a mirror frame as a birthday present for my partner.
> 
> View attachment 146587
> 
> 
> The frame is from a lump of beech that's been sitting in the store for ages. I quite like the plainness of the beech against the kumiko.
> 
> This is a closer look at one of the sides
> 
> View attachment 146588
> 
> 
> Now to get on with the Christmas presents ( yes, they do involve kumiko )


You need to watch YT channel "Pask Makes".


----------



## BillStan01

Made this love spoon for my wife’s 65th from a solid piece of oak.


----------



## rob1693

Making some utensil sets for Christmas presents, made from mystery hardwood from the crate my indian stone paving came on


----------



## Dr Al

rafezetter said:


> Curious grain to the "damascus" (but not really) steel - how was the billet formed and drawn and from what? Cannister or sections of different steels? It's quite unusual to have such a marked delineation of grain, normally far more "uniform", limited as that gets in damascus steel.



It was made from four pieces of flat bar.



rafezetter said:


> It looks likes the billet was just twisted, if so I think the billet was formed the wrong way, the tang will probably have a lot of the twist so that section should have been drawn as the blade with the non twisted section used as the handle to make the twist, should have been the tang.



The flat bar pieces were combined into a single piece and then drawn out into a long cuboid. The middle section of that cuboid was flattened into a hexadecagon (16 sides) by flattening each corner in turn. The bits that stayed square-profile at either end were used to hold the hot length while twisting it and the middle bit got twisted lots and lots of times. The handle section was drawn out of the square (untwisted) bit at one end; the blade is partly twisted (where the lines are perpendicular to the blade) but as you move towards the tip you're seeing it transition into the bit that was used as a handle for twisting and hence isn't twisted. The grain in the tang bit runs parallel with the knife, just like near the tip of the blade.


----------



## Gbobo

Birchply handrail for the stairs. I stacked x2 layers of ply, pre-cut at the angles, to create the joints between the spindles and the frame.
A fair bit of sanding but happy with the result.


----------



## DerekJohn

I bought an old Clarke lathe for £50 about a year ago and am slowly getting better and having so much fun. The two main things I learned were 1) to secure the lathe very tightly and to spend quite a few hours on spindle turning techniques. Practice, practice and practice ...

Grand daughters asked for a couple of Harry Potter wands. The first were pretty rough but I am getting better, so here are a few of the latest ones. 

Four turned and two hand carved.


----------



## wallace

Skydivermel said:


> Nice job. she's got to many handbags.


I collect huge lumps of wadkin machinery with them overflowing into the garden, everyone has there obsession. She has started taking over the loft room now.


----------



## Adam W.

More plastering.....

Gauge coat on the left to even out the country cut oak lath, scratch coat on the right to level our the gauge plaster. In a couple of days I'll skim the finish coat and limewash once it's dry.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Churned out some more small Christmas trees and baubles in prep for the school Xmas fair in a couple of weeks, nothing special just basic shapes that I can turn quickly, using up some lengths of 2x2 pine and anything else I can find that's too small for anything else, sanded with 120g paper and left unfinished, once I have a heap of them I'll go through and clean up the ends from being parted off.


----------



## kinverkid

Mike Peace Woodturning Often posts around this time of year with quick and easy Christmassy ornament ideas. Great for what you're doing with your off-cuts.


Stigmorgan said:


> Churned out some more small Christmas trees and baubles in prep for the school Xmas fair in a couple of weeks, nothing special just basic shapes that I can turn quickly, using up some lengths of 2x2 pine and anything else I can find that's too small for anything else, sanded with 120g paper and left unfinished, once I have a heap of them I'll go through and clean up the ends from being parted off.


----------



## Stigmorgan

kinverkid said:


> Mike Peace Woodturning Often posts around this time of year with quick and easy Christmassy ornament ideas. Great for what you're doing with your off-cuts.


Yup, love his videos, just the right amount of talking to turning and the videos are a good length, 10 to 20 minutes is good, more than that and I lose interest.


----------



## morten_1

_I made a new comb the other day, a few more in the making, although I messed up the precutting of the fine teeth on one of them and I found some cracks in the wood on another. The part with the teeth are made from birch, the inlay in the back is ash (except for the second one where I used cherry)_


----------



## Fred48

morten_1 said:


> View attachment 146789
> _I made a new comb the other day, a few more in the making, although I messed up the precutting of the fine teeth on one of them and I found some cracks in the wood on another. The part with the teeth are made from birch, the inlay in the back is ash (except for the second one where I used cherry)_


Hi morten_1
In what direction is the grain running in the fine teeth part of the comb? It appears that it may be at 90 degrees to the to the direction of the teeth. If that is the case, that could be the cause of the teeth breaking.
Cheers
Fred


----------



## morten_1

Fred48 said:


> Hi morten_1
> In what direction is the grain running in the fine teeth part of the comb? It appears that it may be at 90 degrees to the to the direction of the teeth. If that is the case, that could be the cause of the teeth breaking.
> Cheers
> Fred


Hi Fred, the grains in the wood is always running along the theeth, the broken one I mentioned had some cracks that made some of the teeth to split.


----------



## Morag Jones

Just some fence posts and pallet wood but did


the job. The ‘slates’ actually fell off a lorry - yes really! Saw 5 packs lying by a roundabout on my way home so pulled off and picked them up. A few corners crushed but for a log store just the job. Anthracite barn paint was an exact match for toning down cut edges.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

You obviously don't get the horizontal rain we get.


----------



## Jameshow

Morag Jones said:


> Just some fence posts and pallet wood but didView attachment 146835
> the job. The ‘slates’ actually fell off a lorry - yes really! Saw 5 packs lying by a roundabout on my way home so pulled off and picked them up. A few corners crushed but for a log store just the job. Anthracite barn paint was an exact match for toning down cut edges.


Good find!


----------



## Snettymakes

I made a batch of Panga Panga plane screwdrivers, featuring a magnetic makers mark for easy storage.


----------



## Thingybob

Morag Jones said:


> Just some fence posts and pallet wood but didView attachment 146835
> the job. The ‘slates’ actually fell off a lorry - yes really! Saw 5 packs lying by a roundabout on my way home so pulled off and picked them up. A few corners crushed but for a log store just the job. Anthracite barn paint was an exact match for toning down cut edges.


Is there not a worry of damp being caused against the wall


----------



## Stigmorgan

A somewhat productive day today, I couldn't bring myself to do more baubles, the 2x2 pine I have is too soft and I hate turning it, I have 3 weeks to the school Xmas fair  I've decided to concentrate on bigger stuff for now as I have a lot of wood that is suitable for that, then the offcuts and waste from that wood can be used to make more baubles. Managed 5 bigger trees in 3 hours so not too bad, a couple I finished with wax the rest I used Danish oil.










I haven't even started to think about dressing the table/displaying my items, it will be my first ever stand/stall at an event and I'm scared, I have the added pressure of knowing everyone that is coming  (parents and children)


----------



## kinverkid

Stigmorgan said:


> I haven't even started to think about dressing the table/displaying my items, it will be my first ever stand/stall at an event and I'm scared, I have the added pressure of knowing everyone that is coming  (parents and children)


I'm wondering if you could kick-start a new post. I will be taking some of my trinkets to the lady that has a stall I pass when I visit the hospital to raise money for charity. Maybe other members here do something similar or could send pieces to another member that has a charity/fundraising stall. Just a thought to kick about.


----------



## StilwellDesigns

Made this a while back 
Solid black walnut, maple draws.


----------



## johna.clements

wallace said:


> I collect huge lumps of wadkin machinery with them overflowing into the garden, everyone has there obsession. She has started taking over the loft room now.


i would not be surprised if many of the more expensive bags go up in value if they are not used and that model gets discontinued.


----------



## kgill

It's nearly that dreaded time of year 
made this from scrap CLS studwork timber, the sanding was a pain but otherwise relatively easy. There's a threaded bar that runs through the middle with a wingnut on the end so you can collapse everything flat.


----------



## Stigmorgan

More baubles today, managed to get a little system going, cut up the lengths of wood into shorter easily mounted pieces, half is 2x2 pine the other half is a hardwood from some old school tables, they fit in my chuck jaws nicely so no wasting time turning a tenon between centres, trying to get a nice cut but still having to give them a blast with some 120g, especially the pine which is producing huge amounts of fine dust , mostly teardrop shapes today with a few tree shapes, still have to clean up the bottoms, find a small enough drill bit and decide what to drill where, find some ribbon/thread to attach


----------



## accipiter

BCS1980UK said:


> Thank you, Lefley
> The rails are called Linear Rails. Those are from a company called Vevor but many other companies produce them. You can find on amazon. Those are 20mm but I believe you can also find them with 16mm rails (I think).


Saw the ad for these and the company Vevor... very tempted but have held off temporarily. Was thinking of using them as you have as a starter. Looks like they worked well for you


----------



## Fred48

Stigmorgan said:


> More baubles today, managed to get a little system going, cut up the lengths of wood into shorter easily mounted pieces, half is 2x2 pine the other half is a hardwood from some old school tables, they fit in my chuck jaws nicely so no wasting time turning a tenon between centres, trying to get a nice cut but still having to give them a blast with some 120g, especially the pine which is producing huge amounts of fine dust , mostly teardrop shapes today with a few tree shapes, still have to clean up the bottoms, find a small enough drill bit and decide what to drill where, find some ribbon/thread to


Hi Stigmorgan
I believe the hardwood is beech
Fred


----------



## Stigmorgan

Fred48 said:


> Hi Stigmorgan
> I believe the hardwood is beech
> Fred


Thanks Fred, I did wonder what it could be, it's a very nice wood, cuts and sands easily, wish I had some bigger pieces.


----------



## Morag Jones

Thingybob said:


> Is there not a worry of damp being caused against the wall


I am very careful to leave a gap at the back when stacking, yes I do worry about that. Being south facing helps.


----------



## Stigmorgan

More baubles today, quite a lot more actually, really got into the flow of it today, then I ran out of 2x2, tried gluing some 2x1 iroko into 2x2 but it didn't work very well 




Got 40 raindrop shaped, 30 of the similar sized tree shapes and 16 of the very small tree shapes, not too bad but got a very very long way to go, and I need to make nice stuff too, oh and I also have to get my secret santa gift made and sent


----------



## Jameshow

Offered daughter shopping and MCD.

No I want to go cycling....

It's a bit dark and wet..

Oh ok we'll do some woodworking!


----------



## kgill

Stigmorgan said:


> More baubles today, quite a lot more actually, really got into the flow of it today, then I ran out of 2x2, tried gluing some 2x1 iroko into 2x2 but it didn't work very well
> View attachment 147001
> 
> Got 40 raindrop shaped, 30 of the similar sized tree shapes and 16 of the very small tree shapes, not too bad but got a very very long way to go, and I need to make nice stuff too, oh and I also have to get my secret santa gift made and sent


Dude that's a LOT of baubles!!  you must have the mother of all Christmas trees!
How are you planning on finishing them?


----------



## Stigmorgan

kgill said:


> Dude that's a LOT of baubles!!  you must have the mother of all Christmas trees!
> How are you planning on finishing them?


So I think most here who are aware of me know by now that I am a primary school caretaker, we have a Christmas fair organised by our PTA on 3rd December and they offered me a table to sell some of my work and I (stupidly) said yes, without being big-headed, the children absolutely love me (I'm the biggest child in school ) and I wouldn't be surprised if they all want to buy something I've made so I hope to have a few hundred of the tree baubles that will be priced at £1 to £1.50, I'm not finishing them beyond a quick rub with 120g, that way they can take them home and paint/colour them for themselves. I will also be making a range of larger trees that will be around 6 to 8inches tall and so e bowls/pots etc if I get time.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Just found these on amazon so ordered them and they should arrive Tuesday


----------



## johna.clements

Stigmorgan said:


> Just found these on amazon so ordered them and they should arrive Tuesday
> View attachment 147009


That's quite cheap if you have a use for those sizes

But it looks like one of those snack type things. If you left it out at Chritmas someone would take some and choke so you will have to be carefull if you have guests with poor eyesight.


----------



## Stigmorgan

johna.clements said:


> That's quite cheap if you have a use for those sizes
> 
> But it looks like one of those snack type things. If you left it out at Chritmas someone would take some and choke so you will have to be carefull if you have guests with poor eyesight.


 luckily we rarely have people over to us and they will likely be kept out in the makerspace so shouldn't be an issue


----------



## clogs

Stig
when our kids were at school in the UK my wife and I made and sold cakes at the craft fair....
our prob was never enough loaf tins...hahaha
I hope u do well.......


----------



## Stigmorgan

clogs said:


> Stig
> when our kids were at school in the UK my wife and I made and sold cakes at the craft fair....
> our prob was never enough loaf tins...hahaha
> I hope u do well.......


Thanks clogs, everyone I know seems to think I will sell out, I seem to be the only one that doesn't think so  maybe I'm just being a little more realistic


----------



## clogs

any left overs u can put on ur's or the schools Christmas tree.....no loss........

I keep promising myself to make a few of these for personal use.....
a lot of effort and would have to be expensive to cover time....hence just for me....
found them in California 40 years ago.....cant remember how much tho....


----------



## Stigmorgan

clogs said:


> any left overs u can put on ur's or the schools Christmas tree.....no loss........
> 
> I keep promising myself to make a few of these for personal use.....
> a lot of effort and would have to be expensive to cover time....hence just for me....
> found them in California 40 years ago.....cant remember how much tho....


The tree decorations I do expect to sell out of, they only take a few minutes to shape and rough sand but no way I'm gonna have time to make enough for everyone as well as some nice bowls/pots/vases etc, with 420+ pupils plus parents and family we can easily have 1000 bodies pass through and the pta have started advertising that I will have a stall (I'm a bit of celebrity among the children) so they will all probably come want one of the decorations which is why I'm trying to churn out as many as I can and will price them at £1 and £1.50, I have 86 so far and still have to do a final sanding of the parted off part, add eyelets and ribbon/string, think I may need to get SWMBO involved to earn her keep


----------



## Adam W.

3 coat lime work on home made oak lath, with local sand and locally produced lime.....Good enough for company work and ready for coloured limewash after a final trowelling off.

It might even be finished for Christmas, which will keep the boss happy.


----------



## Dolau




----------



## Dolau

Made a router table out of panels left over from our new kitchen 
it’s too heavy and too big but seems to work ok


----------



## Stigmorgan

Processed a dozen or so lengths of pallet wood into blanks to make more Xmas tree decorations, all the lengths are between 1.2m and 3m, all cut into 200mm lengths,, mostly 2x4 or 3x4, the 2x4 needs resawing to 2x2 on the bandsaw but I'll do that in smaller batches as I turn, tesco crates make useful storage containers 




Managed fit this ( the lengths above the bbq) into these




Made quite a mess in the school carpark too


----------



## johna.clements

Stigmorgan said:


> Processed a dozen or so lengths of pallet wood into blanks to make more Xmas tree decorations, all the lengths are between 1.2m and 3m, all cut into 200mm lengths,, mostly 2x4 or 3x4, the 2x4 needs resawing to 2x2 on the bandsaw but I'll do that in smaller batches as I turn, tesco crates make useful storage containers
> View attachment 147186
> 
> Managed fit this ( the lengths above the bbq) into these
> View attachment 147187
> 
> Made quite a mess in the school carpark too


It looks like you need a shopping trolley!
A lot of saw dust in your extension lead.


----------



## Stigmorgan

johna.clements said:


> It looks like you need a shopping trolley!
> A lot of saw dust in your extension lead.


The crates are easy to stack in my makerspace, wouldn't get a shopping trolley past the bikes 
A light covering of dust, was keeping an eye on it and clearing it off now and then


----------



## MorrisWoodman12

@Stigmorgan May I suggest you put your extension lead the other way up, i.e. plugs on the ground to stop the sawdust going into the sockets.
You always look as though you're having lots of fun with your wood turning.


----------



## XTiffy

I would buy a waterproof extension socket cover for that lead. The one I have is elongated "egg shaped" by Brennenstuhl a Safebox BIG IP44 rating.


----------



## Stigmorgan

MorrisWoodman12 said:


> @Stigmorgan May I suggest you put your extension lead the other way up, i.e. plugs on the ground to stop the sawdust going into the sockets.
> You always look as though you're having lots of fun with your wood turning.


If its not fun it's not worth doing  life is too short to be miserable


----------



## Yojevol

Today I made my largest effort on my CNC router. So large I had to keep the door open - very noisy, ear defenders on. 









It's the escape wheel for my latest clock project. It's made form my own plywood fabricated out of oak veneer.
It was cut in 3 sections being indexed around a central brass pin. The positioning brass pin can be seen to the left of the centre pin.
Lesson learnt - when cutting sequential repeating patterns like this, make sure the start/finish point is out in the wastewood otherwise this sort of thing might happen:-





Brian


----------



## Stigmorgan

The other half was away with the doggos yesterday and last night so I took advantage and spent all afternoon between work shifts and all evening up untill 11:30 last night churning out as many baubles as I could, I now have a bucket full of 100 lightbulb/teardrop shape completed ready for eyelets and string and a tray of 35 tree shapes finished ready to drill and thread with string, only another 65 to go then 100 icicle shapes and possibly some snowman shapes too, I will probably go slightly insane by the time I'm done


----------



## PeteHB

A small lamp that I turned the other day, not quite happy with the design so will rethink it and change the top.


----------



## Farm Labourer

Free standing chest of drawers, solid oak, level and scribed to very wiggly wall.


----------



## johna.clements

Farm Labourer said:


> Free standing chest of drawers, solid oak, level and scribed to very wiggly wall.


Far better than anything I could make but I would have made the bottom solid to hide the slope of the floor.


----------



## Stigmorgan

SWMBO spent yesterday and last night at a friend's and she took the dogs with her giving me free reign to spend all my time in the makerspace churning out more Christmas tree decorations, I've not done too bad I now have 100 lightbulb/teardrop shapes and 100 tree shapes all finished ready to attach thread/ribbon. Eyelets arrived today and they are a lot smaller than I was expecting, possibly too small


----------



## Jameshow

Farm Labourer said:


> Free standing chest of drawers, solid oak, level and scribed to very wiggly wall.View attachment 147318
> View attachment 147319
> View attachment 147320
> View attachment 147322


I might as well give up!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Spent a few relaxed hours threading 100 tree shaped xmas ornaments and fitting screw eyelets to 100 bulb/teardrop shaped ornaments, got more thread/ribbon coming tomorrow, going to do at least 100 icicle shaped then I'll start on bigger stuff.


----------



## scockram

Some Turnery that I finished recently. I'm not entirely happy with the shape or finish, (think I over did the Danish Oil, not even waxed it yet), however, given that it's the first decent thing I've turned after a five year or so hiatus I'm quite pleased with it. The wood itself is amazing, beautiful. Love the burrs in it. It's a piece of Black Locust, Robinia Pseudoacacia I think. Harvested and squirreled away years ago so I'm not completely certain. 

The problem is that I don't know what it is! It was meant to be a door stop but it looks too nice to get battered around in that function. Not sure what else to do with it. Any ideas gratefully revieved.


----------



## Stigmorgan

@scockram How about drill a 2inch recess on top to hold a tealight?


----------



## XTiffy

I recognise that floor! Years ago we used to make Computer bureaus, deliver and install the customers equpment in them (before led screens). Delivered to one house and the floor was just like the photo. Had to block up the front of the plinth to level, looked awful but the customer was happy LoL!


----------



## scockram

XTiffy said:


> I recognise that floor! Years ago we used to make Computer bureaus, deliver and install the customers equpment in them (before led screens). Delivered to one house and the floor was just like the photo. Had to block up the front of the plinth to level, looked awful but the customer was happy LoL!


Wow. You reckon you've been to this house, or you just recognize these tiles? I live in south Birmingham, moved here in 2016.
I took that picture in our kitchen. The floor is rubbish, like an awful lot of work that was done in this house for or maybe by the previous owners.


----------



## scockram

Stigmorgan said:


> @scockram How about drill a 2inch recess on top to hold a tealight?


That's an idea, thanks. I'm looking for something even more functional really. Her indoors said that she doesn't want any more wooden ornaments in the house. She's got a point; we've got a large number of turned and hand carved / whittled bits and pieces lying around already. If I can convince her it's got an important function then I'll get it in!


----------



## Stigmorgan

scockram said:


> That's an idea, thanks. I'm looking for something even more functional really. Her indoors said that she doesn't want any more wooden ornaments in the house. She's got a point; we've got a large number of turned and hand carved / whittled bits and pieces lying around already. If I can convince her it's got an important function then I'll get it in!


Buy a lamp kit and turn it into a side table lamp? Looks good and serves a purpose


----------



## clogs

Stig ... u need to start making stuff earlier.....Jan is just around the corner...lol.....
Farm Labourer... ur in the wrong job...that is stunning...
Sockram... that would be a paper weight in our house.......the doors n windows are always wide open.......


----------



## Stigmorgan

clogs said:


> Stig ... u need to start making stuff earlier.....Jan is just around the corner...lol.....


No I just need to stop gifting everything to people, then I'd have enough to fill a stall


----------



## Stigmorgan

Today I resawed 50 200mm lengths of 3x2 down to 2x2, my trusty B&D bandsaw screamed through almost every length but she did it  then I spent a little time playing with a couple of shapes for the next batch of tree ornaments, think I prefer the bell to the icicle


----------



## Phill05

Stig, Are you going to seal them so paint don't run all over?


----------



## Tuna808

Finally finished the six chairs!……living room furniture set now finished.




Your browser is not able to display this video.


----------



## Tuna808

Table and chairs.




Your browser is not able to display this video.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Phill05 said:


> Stig, Are you going to seal them so paint don't run all over?


Not planning to put anything on them, only going to price them as £1.50 each or 4 for £5, by the time I add up the time spent making them and the costs of the string/ribbon, eyelets, small paper bags, stickers with my logo on I could potentially spend half my profit before selling anything.


----------



## scockram

Stigmorgan said:


> Buy a lamp kit and turn it into a side table lamp? Looks good and serves a purpose





Stigmorgan said:


> Buy a lamp kit and turn it into a side table lamp? Looks good and serves a purpose


Wish I'd thought of that before I took it off the lathe, would have been so much easier. Think I've got a lamp kit kicking around somewhere already.


----------



## blackteaonesugar

Alcove cabinets.
Boooooring 
Why does everyone only want alcove cabinets? Must be 95% of my enquiries. Frustrating to be a creative, and basically make mdf boxes.
Still, turned out OK though.


----------



## MarkAW

They are nice MDF boxes though


----------



## blackteaonesugar

MarkAW said:


> They are nice MDF boxes though


Cheers. 
I've got a project coming up made out of actual tree wood soon. 
Make a nice change


----------



## Thingybob

I wonder if the big board manufacturers take the saw dust from Ikea and the like , That would be perpetual recycling now how green is that


----------



## Thingybob

That would be MFDF (micro fine density fibreboard )


----------



## johna.clements

Thingybob said:


> I wonder if the big board manufacturers take the saw dust from Ikea and the like , That would be perpetual recycling now how green is that


I would assume that they need a certain amount of new fibre.

A few years ago I listened to a program where they were making paper and they said that paper can only be recycled about five times as the fibers break and become shorter. I assume that less overlap means lower strength. Maybe they use the short fibres for those inserts that are now often used in place of polystyrene in packaging. 

I would guess that wood in boards would act the same way. Recycled timber is good is generally dry so less power is required to make new boards.


----------



## Farm Labourer

We went to a wedding recently. The invitation had a link to wedding presents. The Rope & Oak Company wanted £180 for a length of 2" thick oak, with some carving and 10 holes. I think that my version cost less than £30 and I've factored in my time at £38/hr and the machines were amortised some time ago. And it's hand-made by a family friend: It has a couple of metal brackets recessed into the rear face edge and I even made them a template for drilling the supporting wall.


----------



## Austin Branson

A couple of rocking chairs in European Walnut. Aside from bandsaw’ing the rough shape, all done by hand with gouges, spokeshaves etc.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Austin Branson said:


> A couple of rocking chairs in European Walnut. Aside from bandsaw’ing the rough shape, all done by hand with gouges, spokeshaves etc.


Wow, that's a work of art  can I ask how many work hours went into it?


----------



## nosuchhounds

Beautiful. What bit do you use?


BCS1980UK said:


> Greetings,
> This is my first post here and I am relatively new to woodworking.
> This is an English Elm coffee table finished with Danish Oil:
> View attachment 146481
> View attachment 146482
> View attachment 146483


----------



## nosuchhounds

Wow! Stunning work!


pulleyt said:


> Still looking for projects that I can add kumiko work. So this is a mirror frame as a birthday present for my partner.
> 
> View attachment 146587
> 
> 
> The frame is from a lump of beech that's been sitting in the store for ages. I quite like the plainness of the beech against the kumiko.
> 
> This is a closer look at one of the sides
> 
> View attachment 146588
> 
> 
> Now to get on with the Christmas presents ( yes, they do involve kumiko )


----------



## BCS1980UK

nosuchhounds said:


> Beautiful. What bit do you use?


Whiteside 6210 and 3001


----------



## gasman

Garden gate in green oak with 1/2" oak pegged joints


----------



## Fanous

gasman said:


> Garden gate in green oak with 1/2" oak pegged joints


Looks great. Are you not worried about the door sagging and going out of square without diagonal support?


----------



## RichieG

A pair of illuminated floating shelves/pot plant stands for our dining room. Mainly to have a go at welding with my new welder. I'm pleased with the shadows they cast.


----------



## Stigmorgan

RichieG said:


> A pair of illuminated floating shelves/pot plant stands for our dining room. Mainly to have a go at welding with my new welder. I'm pleased with the shadows they cast.


Very nice, although I would worry about the bulb burning the pot/plant, can you get an LED bulb to fit? It would generate a lot less heat


----------



## RichieG

Stigmorgan said:


> Very nice, although I would worry about the bulb burning the pot/plant, can you get an LED bulb to fit? It would generate a lot less heat





Stigmorgan said:


> Very nice, although I would worry about the bulb burning the pot/plant, can you get an LED bulb to fit? It would generate a lot less heat



They are 2W LED filaments and don't kick out much heat at all. I think we'll only be putting artifical plants up there to avoid watering near the electrics. The frame and lamp holder are both solidly earthed.


----------



## gasman

Fanous said:


> Looks great. Are you not worried about the door sagging and going out of square without diagonal support?


Yes I am and can always add it as an afterthought but there are 4 full width (80mm) mortice and tenon joints on each side and it seems super-robust to me


----------



## Austin Branson

Stigmorgan said:


> Wow, that's a work of art  can I ask how many work hours went into it?


This is my third attempt at answering your question. I must be really stupid! Thanks for the praise, I really can’t estimate the time. Elapsed time was about 20 months, but I didn’t work on them very quickly. As a guideline, each spindle took between two and a half and three hours for initial shaping. I hope that helps. Best wishes.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Having made 250 tree ornaments, yesterday I needed a break so mounted an oak crotch that was very very punky, roughed out what I wanted then saturated it with CA, today I finished the outside then hollowed it out. Sanding to 600 gave a lovely finish to the CA hardened wood, hitting it with abrasive paste followed by hardwax made it really pop


----------



## Jameshow

Current state of the previously mentioned Santa sleigh. 

Question I have, is that the commissioner has purchased scrounged 240v amp and speakers, inverter and batteries. 

I'm thinking this is the wrong way of doing it. 240v in the possible rain, when there is no need for it. 

Worse still they want 2' holes cut front and back into the sleigh! 

I'm thinking......

Bluetooth stereo, 12v amp and speakers. 

Led lights are 12v these days. 

Any thoughts esp those who are acoustic experts or car stereo mods in days gone bye. 

Many thanks


----------



## Bingy man

Jameshow said:


> Current state of the previously mentioned Santa sleigh.
> 
> Question I have, is that the commissioner has purchased scrounged 240v amp and speakers, inverter and batteries.
> 
> I'm thinking this is the wrong way of doing it. 240v in the possible rain, when there is no need for it.
> 
> Worse still they want 2' holes cut front and back into the sleigh!
> 
> I'm thinking......
> 
> Bluetooth stereo, 12v amp and speakers.
> 
> Led lights are 12v these days.
> 
> Any thoughts esp those who are acoustic experts or car stereo mods in days gone bye.
> 
> Many thanks
> View attachment 147777


Stunning  can’t help much with the technical stuff but I’d not want to be anywhere near 240vac in the damp let alone in the rain so 12 or 24 volts dc is the way to go ( imo)


----------



## sometimewoodworker

Bingy man said:


> Stunning  can’t help much with the technical stuff but I’d not want to be anywhere near 240vac in the damp let alone in the rain so 12 or 24 volts dc is the way to go ( imo)


I would be extra careful about water ingress with DC as AFAIR there is much more corrosion with DC that gets damp.


----------



## Padster

So I had last week off to do so pressies for Crimbo - you may have seen my apple but thought it looked a bit bare so more fruit, another bowl, a camo razor - and there are couple of projects that aren't quite finished yet 


















Regards

Padster


----------



## paulrbarnard

sometimewoodworker said:


> I would be extra careful about water ingress with DC as AFAIR there is much more corrosion with DC that gets damp.


But definately not as dangerous as 240V AC. Corrosion will just stop it working in a few years time. I would definitely go for 12V for sounds and lights.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Started making a bud vase, got it shaped and drilled then started sanding, was going fine then felt a bump so stopped and discovered I had sanded through so cut through the neck and it seems the drill took a slight detour


----------



## Phil Pascoe

That's why you drill the hole first.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Phil Pascoe said:


> That's why you drill the hole first.


I did


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Ah, it wasn't a through hole.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Phil Pascoe said:


> Ah, it wasn't a through hole.


Nope, drilled first then shaped it then sanded through it so cut the neck off to see how much the drill bit had wandered off centre


----------



## weigen369

Small stool


----------



## Hallelujahal

Little sewing kit in shape of a cocktail shaker for one of my daughters who likes both


----------



## Stigmorgan

Made a few trees and a few little trinket dishes from Ash, the tree only fell 6 months ago but the wood seems to hold it's shape very well, even so I've put a thicker than usual coat of wax on them. Here's a pic of everything except the Xmas tree decorations that I have ready for the school fair in just over a week, there's oak, cherry, sycamore, willow, ash and a little bud vase that I don't know the wood species.


----------



## Fred48

Stigmorgan said:


> Made a few trees and a few little trinket dishes from Ash, the tree only fell 6 months ago but the wood seems to hold it's shape very well, even so I've put a thicker than usual coat of wax on them. Here's a pic of everything except the Xmas tree decorations that I have ready for the school fair in just over a week, there's oak, cherry, sycamore, willow, ash and a little bud vase that I don't know the wood species.View attachment 147902
> View attachment 147903
> View attachment 147904
> View attachment 147905


Hi Stigmorgan,
Beautiful work. I suspect the vase in incorrectly labelled as oak. Not sure what it is. Pine?
Cheers Fred


----------



## Stigmorgan

Fred48 said:


> Hi Stigmorgan,
> Beautiful work. I suspect the vase in incorrectly labelled as oak. Not sure what it is. Pine?
> Cheers Fred


It's a piece of a 4x4 fence post that was given to me, I was told the post was oak and the colour before treating looked a little like oak but slightly lighter, it's harder than any pine I've ever used so don't think it's that.


----------



## Jameshow

Wooden snow men carved by a client of mine!


----------



## Fred48

Stigmorgan said:


> It's a piece of a 4x4 fence post that was given to me, I was told the post was oak and the colour before treating looked a little like oak but slightly lighter, it's harder than any pine I've ever used so don't think it's that.


I cannot see any medullary rays in the vase which made me suspect it's was not oak. The medullary rays are clearly visible in the lovely oak bowl.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Pine. I've had pine so hard it bounced the tools off.

Edit - the two woods smell noticeably different.


----------



## Jameshow

Phil Pascoe said:


> Pine. I've had pine so hard it bounced the tools off.
> 
> Edit - the two woods smell noticeably different.


Pitch pine?


----------



## Stigmorgan

Today's offerings are Pine bowl, so soft I couldn't get a clean cut so had to do a ton of sanding at 40g up to 320, I'm really happy with the end result, it weighs almost nothing. For ages I've been seeing woodturned male and female figures so thought I'd give them a go with some oak (definately oak, I cut it from the tree myself )


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Jameshow said:


> Pitch pine?


Unlikely, I'd think, but a decent piece of some other pine. I have a lamp made of pine very similar but I've no camera atm. It was so hard the end grain was a nightmare to turn cleanly but eventually I got one very light clean with a newly ground gouge and the finish was perfect off the tool.


----------



## Stigmorgan

@Fred48 @Jameshow I think based on @Phil Pascoe we can all agree on pine then, I'll change the tag, I have another 7feet of the post left so will likely be making another half dozen vases. Although, the hole is only 12mm wide and 120mm deep so would it qualify as a large twig pot instead of a vase?


----------



## Phil Pascoe

The ultimate test of oak is to put some shavings into vinegar with a bit of steel - a nail or something - and see if it goes blue/black. If it does it isn't definitely oak but if it doesn't it definitely isn't.


----------



## rafezetter

morten_1 said:


> View attachment 146789
> _I made a new comb the other day, a few more in the making, although I messed up the precutting of the fine teeth on one of them and I found some cracks in the wood on another. The part with the teeth are made from birch, the inlay in the back is ash (except for the second one where I used cherry)_


I really like that - I have long (shoulder length) hair, viking style and a normal brush is a pita to untagle it after washing etc - you've inspired me to try to make a better one to do it in stages like they do for drawing out hemp - lol but without the nails.

I've got some thinnish offcuts of old teak that would be perfect I think, though I'll soak it in some thinned epoxy to give the teeth some extra strength.


----------



## JBaz

A friend of mine's grandchildren are being christened at the weekend, and when I asked what they might like as a gift a personalised eggcup was mentioned. I think this was traditionally a christening gift, along with silver bangles etc.











The wood is maple and the lettering is routed out on a cheap (not so cheap today!) CNC router and filled with wood filler before sanding back and spraying with pre-cat lacquer (washable). The boxes (which the recipients will probably appreciate more) are from the local hobby store and sprayed with some lacquer that I mixed from what I had.


----------



## HOJ

Fred48 said:


> Hi Stigmorgan,
> Beautiful work. I suspect the vase in incorrectly labelled as oak. Not sure what it is. Pine?





Jameshow said:


> Pitch pine?


I'd suggest Douglas Fir, I have to say @Stigmorgan you are prolific, I wish you all the success you deserve at your fair.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

You could well be right.


----------



## HOJ

The only reason I say that it could be DF, is that I've been machining up some big lumps of the stuff recently:


----------



## Phil Pascoe

The hard rings tie up with it's being D.F. I didn't think of D.F. when I said it was pine.


----------



## thetyreman

if it is douglas fir I've found it has a lovely sherbert smell that is very distinctive when working it with hand tools.


----------



## frankendoodle65

If it was a fence post and looks somewhat oak like, my money's on sweet chestnut. It's used a lot for fences due to its impressive rot resistance, and certainly looks possible as far as i can tell from the photos.


----------



## Thingybob

Not a recent last thing I made did this back in early 90 s when I fancied wood turning , thing was I had a carpy lathe made it out of bits lying around workshop . I started my own joinery buisness soon afterwards so never had time to peruse as a hobby


----------



## Thingybob

Thanks Stig not up to your standards but I may have another dabble and pick up a 2nd hand lathe I have got all Robert Sorby tools its a pity to waste them you know the sentiment "I'm going to start wood turning i was bequithed a new tool lathe so went to Millersdale in Derbyshire watched some guys turning and treated myself to full set of Sorbys they are like brand new will post a pic when i unpack them must be worth a few bob now


----------



## Thingybob

If I ever finish the train its over 6 ft long Engine,Tender,2 passenger coaches and Caboose


----------



## Stigmorgan

HOJ said:


> I'd suggest Douglas Fir, I have to say @Stigmorgan you are prolific, I wish you all the success you deserve at your fair.


Thanks @HOJ , the grain definately looks the same as does the colour 

Been a busy day, woke in a stubborn frame of mind so when I went out to the maker space I cut off a piece that looked like it would be trouble from a branch of sycamore, to my surprise it turned really well and I love the end result, sanded to 320 and finished with Danish oil, I cut the rest of the branch into 8 pieces about 200mm long and started making figurines, 4 males and 1 female done so far.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Thingybob said:


> If I ever finish the train its over 6 ft long Engine,Tender,2 passenger coaches and Caboose


That train is beautiful, beyond anything I have the patience for


----------



## Hallelujahal

Earring holder and trinket box for youngest daughter. I’m new to Woodturning so it’s not perfect but hopefully it’ll be a nice stocking filler!
The elephant in the pic is a test piece for something I hope to make again but larger and in hard wood!


----------



## Jameshow

Sa


Stigmorgan said:


> That train is beautiful, beyond anything I have the patience for


Says he of 1000 Christmas decs!!!


----------



## kinverkid

Stigmorgan said:


> figurines, 4 males and 1 female done so far.


Seeing all your production pieces you've been 'turning' out lately you might be interested in this chap. His name is Steve Jones and has been a production woodturner for many years. He rarely posts these days although he has put a video on just yesterday. WOODTURNER 21. You won't often see him using much more than a skew and a gouge.


----------



## Stigmorgan

kinverkid said:


> Seeing all your production pieces you've been 'turning' out lately you might be interested in this chap. His name is Steve Jones and has been a production woodturner for many years. He rarely posts these days although he has put a video on just yesterday. WOODTURNER 21. You won't often see him using much more than a skew and a gouge.


I follow him already, he is amazing, he posts more regularly on Instagram, I've tried the skew and just can't to grips with it, until I buy the jig for my Robert sorry sharpening kit I struggle to sharpen it too.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> Sa
> Says he of 1000 Christmas decs!!!


 250 tree decorations so far and the boredom set in very quickly  may do another 50 if I get time but I still want a few more bigger ticket items.


----------



## Yorkieguy

Stigmorgan said:


> I follow him already, he is amazing, he posts more regularly on Instagram, I've tried the skew and just can't to grips with it, until I buy the jig for my Robert sorry sharpening kit I struggle to sharpen it too.


Steve is, I think, the 5th generation of a family of noted woodturners and is a master at his craft. No fancy cryogenically hardened turning tools, no Sorby Pro-edge sharpening kit, no jigs, a home-made marking gauge and 'storyboard', no CBN wheel. Just a skew, a spindle gouge and a parting tool. Low-tech/high skill craftsmanship. All done in nine minutes, no dramas.

Respect!


----------



## kinverkid

Yorkieguy said:


> no CBN wheel. Just a skew, a spindle gouge and a parting tool. Low-tech/high skill craftsmanship. All done in nine minutes, no dramas.


Him and Richard Raffan are my kind of turners although they've both now acquired CBN wheels I see. I do like them but I've gone this long on a 120 grit which I reckon will outlast me anyway.


----------



## Stigmorgan

OMG did I ache this morning after spending 7 hours out at the lathe yesterday  my shoulders and forearms felt tight and heavy, so after a good strong coffee to wake up I went back out at lunchtime to finish turning my ladies and to see what else I could come up with, first was a roughly 3x3x12inch lump of spalted silver birch (I absolutely love this stuff) which once rounded off screamed Christmas tree, then I found a piece of ash that had caught the gauge and flew off the lathe last week so rounded that back off and it became another tree then finally just for fun I thought I'd try a quick snowman from a 3x3 piece of very soft pine, may do a few more (No plans to make a nose/eyes etc). Going to also have a go at doing some smaller snowmen that can be used as tree decorations


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Stigmorgan said:


> I follow him already, he is amazing, he posts more regularly on Instagram, I've tried the skew and just can't to grips with it, until I buy the jig for my Robert sorry sharpening kit I struggle to sharpen it too.


Abrasive paper on a ply or mdf disc on your lathe is all you need to grind a skew. Touch up with a diamond plate until it needs refreshing on the disc.


----------



## stuckinthemud

I’m told mdf is abrasive enough to hone a chisel without an abrasive sheet but never been brave enough to try


----------



## mikej460

stuckinthemud said:


> I’m told mdf is abrasive enough to hone a chisel without an abrasive sheet but never been brave enough to try


Not hone - strop


----------



## stuckinthemud

Ummm probably going to sound pedantic but I thought honing was done with something firm (like an mdf disk mounted in a lathe or bench grinder) but a strop was a leather strap?


----------



## Fitzroy

Racking and a tool wall as I slowly insulate and then reorder my shed.


----------



## TRITON

Phil Pascoe said:


> Abrasive paper on a ply or mdf disc on your lathe is all you need to grind a skew. Touch up with a diamond plate until it needs refreshing on the disc.



I think we could probably come up with something akin to a record player, so its lying horizontally rather than vertical,much like a Viceroy.
See here. - I like the added piece of glass to give more support to the abrasive paper. Theres less likelihood of the tool pressure causing damage to the MDF disc.








DIY Sharpening System From a Broken Breadmaker


DIY Sharpening System From a Broken Breadmaker: Chisels, plane blades and other edged tools need regular TLC to keep them functioning properly. Mine were getting blunt and I'd misplaced my oilstone, so I decided to make a powered sharpening system using parts hacked from a broken breadmaker. I al…




www.instructables.com


----------



## cowtown_eric

heated pallet knife for shellac stick melting/furniture repair


----------



## Phil Pascoe

TRITON said:


> There's less likelihood of the tool pressure causing damage to the MDF disc.


I treat the discs as sacrificial anyway. Once the paper is worn it's quicker and easier to use a fresh piece than to get the paper off and true up the old disc. I always use short screws so can reuse the disc if necessary, just skimming it flat again.


----------



## Rodpr

Not sure if this really counts as making but my son in law is a chef and wanted me to make a serving board from an offcut of oak worktop. I don't have a big enough router bit to make a decent finger groove on the ends so just chamfered the ends on my table saw. I picked up a Dewalt impact driver for £50 from Screwfix and wanted to stow this and the drill under a shelf - the pieces I cut off the ends of the serving board turned out to be perfect for the job!


----------



## Padster

First attempt a 'River' board, it's a way to prove the process for the table I have to make...






Regards

Padster


----------



## CaptainBudget

Cookbook stand I've made for my wife as a Christmas present. 

This was made from oak flooring offcuts a colleague gave me and is probably the first proper project I've done in hardwood, and my first proper attempt at carving. 

Quite chuffed with that.


----------



## Stigmorgan

kinverkid said:


> Seeing all your production pieces you've been 'turning' out lately you might be interested in this chap. His name is Steve Jones and has been a production woodturner for many years. He rarely posts these days although he has put a video on just yesterday. WOODTURNER 21. You won't often see him using much more than a skew and a gouge.


----------



## Amateur

Bedroom set. Chest of drawers and two bedside cabinets for my niece.


----------



## Amateur




----------



## Amateur




----------



## Amateur




----------



## Amateur

Made from English elm to go with a dressing table/desk I made earlier this year.
The drawer knobs are what they are, not my choice and the chinese quality isn't up to much but can be changed as she gets older.
This will be my last heavy project. Moving heavy pieces about is getting too much Im afraid at my age.


----------



## Amateur

Take care everyone.


----------



## paulrbarnard

Amateur said:


> Made from English elm to go with a dressing table/desk I made earlier this year.
> The drawer knobs are what they are, not my choice and the chinese quality isn't up to much but can be changed as she gets older.
> This will be my last heavy project. Moving heavy pieces about is getting too much Im afraid at my age.


Fantastic work. An heirloom for sure. I hear you about "things getting heavy" I'm finally making a shift to using power tools...


----------



## Rodpr

Beautiful work, Amateur!


----------



## Jameshow

Amateur said:


> View attachment 148165


Will you please change your forum name! 

I'm the amateur!


----------



## Morag Jones

Very lovely. What a lucky niece.


----------



## Fred48

Amateur said:


> Take care everyone.
> 
> View attachment 148168


Beautiful work.


----------



## mikej460

stuckinthemud said:


> Ummm probably going to sound pedantic but I thought honing was done with something firm (like an mdf disk mounted in a lathe or bench grinder) but a strop was a leather strap?


I've never heard of honing (cutting a 30-degree bevel on a 25-degree ground blade) done on a lathe or bench grinder and certainly would never attempt it. You can successfully strop a blade on mdf held in a vice using a suitable cutting paste, I prefer a leather strop with Autosol. If you try and hone a blade on a fast-moving lump of mdf you will generate a huge amount of heat very quickly and alter the blade temper.


----------



## Stigmorgan

With only 3 days until the Xmas fair I'm starting to stress out and I've stupidly added to the stress by adding another tree baubles in the shape of a snowman, 26 done so far and 24 left to do, not a great finish but for £1.50 each they will do, started a twig pot from a bowling pin, no idea what the wood is but it's absolutely stunning and very hard, pic is sanded at 120g, once sanded to 600 hit with abrasive paste and then coated with wax it shines beautifully.


----------



## MichaelChou

Stigmorgan said:


> With only 3 days until the Xmas fair I'm starting to stress out and I've stupidly added to the stress by adding another tree baubles in the shape of a snowman, 26 done so far and 24 left to do, not a great finish but for £1.50 each they will do, started a twig pot from a bowling pin, no idea what the wood is but it's absolutely stunning and very hard, pic is sanded at 120g, once sanded to 600 hit with abrasive paste and then coated with wax it shines beautifully.
> View attachment 148191
> View attachment 148192


You have produced more in the last month than I have in my lifetime! Well done. It is inspiring seeing you doing so much.


----------



## Stigmorgan

MichaelChou said:


> You have produced more in the last month than I have in my lifetime! Well done. It is inspiring seeing you doing so much.


Thank you, I have to admit I don't know production turners do it, the boredom of repeating myself doing the tree decorations is killing me, will probably take a week away from the lathe once this weekend is out of the way, will probably take a week to clean all the shavings and dust out of the garage


----------



## Phil Pascoe

mikej460 said:


> I've never heard of honing (cutting a 30-degree bevel on a 25-degree ground blade) done on a lathe or bench grinder and certainly would never attempt it. You can successfully strop a blade on mdf held in a vice using a suitable cutting paste, I prefer a leather strop with Autosol. If you try and hone a blade on a fast-moving lump of mdf you will generate a huge amount of heat very quickly and alter the blade temper.


A leather disc on a lathe with buffing soap is a wonderful quick strop. I suspect a little confusion in the terminology, I doubt anyone would hone on a wooden disc, leather or not.


----------



## Fitzroy

Stigmorgan said:


> Thank you, I have to admit I don't know production turners do it, the boredom of repeating myself doing the tree decorations is killing me, will probably take a week away from the lathe once this weekend is out of the way, will probably take a week to clean all the shavings and dust out of the garage


I've toyed with the idea of using woodwork as an income source post retirement. My biggest concern though is having to make the same thing more than once. I love the design and problem solving process of a new item, but once it's done I want to move to the next thing.


----------



## bourbon

Made for a Mate to use at the Repair Cafe that we both volunteer at


----------



## weigen369

*Cactus Juice Stabilizing knobs and handles*


----------



## Fitzroy

weigen369 said:


> *Cactus Juice Stabilizing knobs and handles*View attachment 148275
> View attachment 148276


That dust looks lethal! I'm sure it's actually no worse than any other dust but being bright blue make me shiver.


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> Thank you, I have to admit I don't know production turners do it, the boredom of repeating myself doing the tree decorations is killing me, will probably take a week away from the lathe once this weekend is out of the way, will probably take a week to clean all the shavings and dust out of the garage


How about a digger Baldkev has one!!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Fitzroy said:


> That dust looks lethal! I'm sure it's actually no worse than any other dust but being bright blue make me shiver.


You don't like powdered Smurf?


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> How about a digger Baldkev has one!!


May well need to borrow it  was wondering why my neck and shoulders were aching so much then realised I was standing on 6inches of sawdust


----------



## RINK123

Doris said:


> View attachment 146410
> View attachment 146411
> View attachment 146412
> 
> 
> Santa's workshop comission just finished this afternoon. The workshop itself is made from reclaimed oak flooring, figures are carved from chopsticks mostly, flooring is coffee stirrers, some other bits and pieces made from lolly sticks too.


Very Nice I made this


----------



## Yojevol

Today I finished making this castor dolly for my new Axi bandsaw. I used these retractable castors. I was aiming at not having to drill holes in my new toy. Mounting them on the board means that the don't protrude as much as if attached to the legs. A much neater and more ergonomic solution than normal braked castors.
Brian


----------



## Molynoox

Fitzroy said:


> I've toyed with the idea of using woodwork as an income source post retirement. My biggest concern though is having to make the same thing more than once. I love the design and problem solving process of a new item, but once it's done I want to move to the next thing.


I've thought about it a bit too.
Any ideas for products? I think cutting boards could be a good one.
An obvious one is bird boxes but market is saturated I reckon.
Maybe I should do a separate thread....

Martin


----------



## Garden Shed Projects

weigen369 said:


> *Cactus Juice Stabilizing knobs and handles*View attachment 148275
> View attachment 148276


Forgive my ignorance, is that some kind of neon blue timber or have you managed to impregnate it with some kind of dye? Is that the cactus juice you reference in the title? Love the look of it by the way.


----------



## mikej460

weigen369 said:


> *Cactus Juice Stabilizing knobs and handles*View attachment 148275
> View attachment 148276


Wow - punked planes - who ever thought...I like them bit them but they may send Paul Sellers into apoplexy..


----------



## stenik

Stigmorgan said:


> With only 3 days until the Xmas fair I'm starting to stress out and I've stupidly added to the stress by adding another tree baubles in the shape of a snowman, 26 done so far and 24 left to do, not a great finish but for £1.50 each they will do, started a twig pot from a bowling pin, no idea what the wood is but it's absolutely stunning and very hard, pic is sanded at 120g, once sanded to 600 hit with abrasive paste and then coated with wax it shines beautifully.
> View attachment 148191
> View attachment 148192


Good luck tomorrow Stigmorgan. Hope the weather holds and have fun after all the hard work


----------



## Fred48

Stigmorgan said:


> With only 3 days until the Xmas fair I'm starting to stress out and I've stupidly added to the stress by adding another tree baubles in the shape of a snowman, 26 done so far and 24 left to do, not a great finish but for £1.50 each they will do, started a twig pot from a bowling pin, no idea what the wood is but it's absolutely stunning and very hard, pic is sanded at 120g, once sanded to 600 hit with abrasive paste and then coated with wax it shines beautifully.
> View attachment 148191
> View attachment 148192


----------



## Fred48

Hi Stigmorgan
All the best for tomorrow. I'm sure you will do extremely well.
Cheers
Fred


----------



## Stigmorgan

@stenik @Fred48 thanks guys, technically I'm not supposed to set up my stall until everyone else gets in tomorrow at 11 but seeing as I'm the caretaker and have the keys I decided to set up this evening because I'm a rebel like that  I may have taken it a little too seriously though and gone ott with it 









Your browser is not able to display this video.


----------



## Andy's Shed

All the very best for tomorrow Stig.


----------



## Rudeboyraz

My first and the last thing I actually made. There was lots of first with this project like first time using router hopefully won't be the last time.p.s it was the cabinets that made also done the panelling on the wall.


----------



## Farm Labourer

A finishing kind of afternoon, yesterday.


----------



## johnnyb

this was a pig of a job but it was OK in the end. the problem was loads of boxing and pipes.


----------



## johnnyb

showing all the cutouts


----------



## clogs

farm labourer.....hand carved.....?.......wow.......
wish I lived closer we need a big new sign for our rental.......


----------



## johnnyb

here's the cutouts


----------



## Farm Labourer

@clogs - not hand carved by any stretch. All knocked out on the CNC. Hand-carving would take talent I don't possess! My wife doesn't even let me paint the letters in!


----------



## kinverkid

Stigmorgan said:


> technically I'm not supposed to set up my stall until everyone else gets in tomorrow at 11 but seeing as I'm the caretaker and have the keys I decided to set up this evening because I'm a rebel like that  I may have taken it a little too seriously though and gone ott with it


You know we're all waiting to see how your hard work paid off don't you?


----------



## Stigmorgan

kinverkid said:


> You know we're all waiting to see how your hard work paid off don't you?


Not quite as well as I thought, some things I expected to go quickly didn't sell at all and the rest was slow going, only sold half the tree baubles, I did sell the Oak bowl for £100 which did surprise me, I was fully expecting not to sell it.


----------



## kinverkid

£100 for a bowl is a result. Well done. I'm surprised about the baubles especially at the low price of them. Hope those figurines did well.


----------



## Stigmorgan

kinverkid said:


> £100 for a bowl is a result. Well done. I'm surprised about the baubles especially at the low price of them. Hope those figurines did well.


The bowl was my biggest self doubt so was surprised it sold for the ticket price,I wasn't put in the best position so didn't really get the footfall I could have and the PTA didn't advertise that I would be there, all in though I made I decent bit of cash so can't complain, sold 2 pairs of figurines.


----------



## danst96

With the temps hitting -27 with a real feel of -40 this past week I've continued working on a few small shop projects to try get the place shipshape, still a large mess and certainly doesn't look great but I'm going for function and not form as I have a few big urgent projects coming up, I'll paint it up and make it look nice when I have the time. I didn't anticipate still having boxes of unpacked gear over a year after our move but here we are.

This week got a wood rack made (with a ton of white oak ready for a huge dining table), made some progress on the tool chest and made some clamp storage which I still need a lot more of.


----------



## J-G

In the thread about Maths being everywhere I was disparaged for saying that I would use a milling machine to do the job. I also mentioned that I was designing a box with a secret catch and Adam hoped that that turned out OK. Well - I've nearly completed that box - machined 90% on the milling machine (just a small bit of turning hinge pins and bushes on the lathe) so thought that you may like to see why I find machining exotic timbers on the mill easier than trying to use 'normal' saws & chisles which are far too large.




This is the 'dry' assembled box as yet without the catch mechanism - you'll soon apreciate why!

Overall width and depth is 50mm and the height is 30mm. Top, front & back are Olive and the sides are Rosewood.

The 'hinge' is created using 2.7mm Ø Brass bushes with a 1.6mm Ø bore inset into the lid and 2mm Ø St. Steel pins in the back turned down to 1.6mm 'free fit' to the bushes.

The base is 1.5mm Oak ply.

Now, the interesting part is that there will be a Brass sprung catch inset into the front which will be operated by pressing a 3mm Ø ebony button on the left hand side. There will be 7 other 'false' Ebony buttons, making four 'dots' on each side. Here are some photo's of the catch - one with a 5p coin to show the scale.




















The left image shows it un-assembled but with the actuating rod in place - that is a 1mm Ø St. Steel pin. It's difficult to see, but the body is a dovetail. The next image may make that more obvious.



The hole on the left hand side will position a 3mmØ spring 2.5mm free length which will keep the lid closed until the Ebony button is depressed - travel will be no more than ½mm.

Fitting the catch is my job for tomorrow


----------



## cowtown_eric

heated pallet knife for melting shellac fil sticks. - just made the tip. Works a charm.


----------



## weigen369

Garden Shed Projects said:


> Forgive my ignorance, is that some kind of neon blue timber or have you managed to impregnate it with some kind of dye? Is that the cactus juice you reference in the title? Love the look of it by the way.


Please excuse my limited English communication skills

Maple wood+Cactus Juice(Thermosetting acrylic resins)+ Transparent metallic dyes(UV fade protection)


----------



## pgrbff

Phil Pascoe said:


> The ultimate test of oak is to put some shavings into vinegar with a bit of steel - a nail or something - and see if it goes blue/black. If it does it isn't definitely oak but if it doesn't it definitely isn't.


Won't sweet chestnut do the same?


----------



## paulrbarnard

Nothing fancy but I acquired a Festool extractor so decided to put my cyclone on top of it. It makes it a bit more movable than my previous setup with a vacuum and a bin. 
Simple MDF box assembled with dominoes, yes I’ve gone all modern with power tools and techniques…
I 3D printed the latch connectors where it clips to the extractor as well as the adaptors for the cyclone.
One big disaster occurred when flush triming the recess in the front, strategically hidden in the photo . The bearing on my super cheap flush cut router bit self destructed resulting in a less than flush cut


----------



## Baball

The first of two beds for the kids, their first full-size beds.

Mostly pine, sprayed with Rust-oleum furniture paint. Oak tops to the head and foot board. Domino XL connectors used for knockdown fixings. Slats from Ikea.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

pgrbff said:


> Won't sweet chestnut do the same?


Yes, that's why I said "If it does it isn't definitely oak". Sapele will also go blue/black quite quickly. It's an easy of testing that something ISN'T oak.


----------



## Jameshow

Just about finished the Santa sleigh!


----------



## paulrbarnard

Jameshow said:


> Just about finished the Santa sleigh! View attachment 148678


Did you go 12V in the end?


----------



## Stigmorgan

@Jameshow is that what you'll be driving when you drop the logs at mine?


----------



## Jameshow

paulrbarnard said:


> Did you go 12V in the end?


Don't ask... 

I'm not Santa or his electrician!!


----------



## sawtooth-9

J-G said:


> In the thread about Maths being everywhere I was disparaged for saying that I would use a milling machine to do the job. I also mentioned that I was designing a box with a secret catch and Adam hoped that that turned out OK. Well - I've nearly completed that box - machined 90% on the milling machine (just a small bit of turning hinge pins and bushes on the lathe) so thought that you may like to see why I find machining exotic timbers on the mill easier than trying to use 'normal' saws & chisles which are far too large.
> View attachment 148543
> 
> This is the 'dry' assembled box as yet without the catch mechanism - you'll soon apreciate why!
> 
> Overall width and depth is 50mm and the height is 30mm. Top, front & back are Olive and the sides are Rosewood.
> 
> The 'hinge' is created using 2.7mm Ø Brass bushes with a 1.6mm Ø bore inset into the lid and 2mm Ø St. Steel pins in the back turned down to 1.6mm 'free fit' to the bushes.
> 
> The base is 1.5mm Oak ply.
> 
> Now, the interesting part is that there will be a Brass sprung catch inset into the front which will be operated by pressing a 3mm Ø ebony button on the left hand side. There will be 7 other 'false' Ebony buttons, making four 'dots' on each side. Here are some photo's of the catch - one with a 5p coin to show the scale.
> View attachment 148545
> 
> View attachment 148544
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left image shows it un-assembled but with the actuating rod in place - that is a 1mm Ø St. Steel pin. It's difficult to see, but the body is a dovetail. The next image may make that more obvious.
> 
> View attachment 148546​The hole on the left hand side will position a 3mmØ spring 2.5mm free length which will keep the lid closed until the Ebony button is depressed - travel will be no more than ½mm.
> 
> Fitting the catch is my job for tomorrow


Interesting that you have used a mill for wood.
When I was making a six segment wheel for a spinning wheel ( see my post "Twisted" ) I set each segment up in the mill to cut in the joining tongue and matching grooves. Much easier set up and far more accurate.


----------



## J-G

sawtooth-9 said:


> Interesting that you have used a mill for wood.
> When I was making a six segment wheel for a spinning wheel ( see my post "Twisted" ) I set each segment up in the mill to cut in the joining tongue and matching grooves. Much easier set up and far more accurate.


When you're dealing with joints/housings at 2.5mm x 3mm or 1.5mm wide slots which don't break the outside of the object it's difficult to see a better way.

The fact that the timbers are Olive, Rosewood & Ebony means that I'm happy to treat them as 'soft' metal and I seldom use any softwoods.

There were times - on this project - that I was taking a cut of 0.05mm.

To give you a better understanding of the challenges, here's a drawing of the front panel:




and the left side :


----------



## Rodpr

Made a maamoul cookie mould for my son-in-law who is a chef. My first go at dual axis turning and 'serrations' were carved with flexcut v gouge


----------



## paulrbarnard

Rodpr said:


> Made a maamoul cookie mould for my son-in-law who is a chef. My first go at dual axis turning and 'serrations' were carved with flexcut v gouge


Now I just need to google maamoul cookie. I’m sure I’ll like them if they are cookies


----------



## matkinitice

Coffee table for lounge. We moved in 2 years September, so this will be a nice addition finally.

American white oak, Osmo poly X. Second time doing breadboard ends, had a bit of a disaster as one of the holes for drawboring broke, so lesson for next time is move them closer in so there's more long grain. If I can combine this effort with my first my third set should be spot on.

One improvement I stole from the wood whisperer was to leave the breadboards slightly oversized. This means they always look this way, regardless if the top shrinks or vice versa. My last set was cut flush which look good half the year round.

Hard to see in the picture but I spent a lot of time getting the grain on the legs to match (quarter sawn) and the smaller rails were glued up from about eight or so pieces of scrap laminated. I'll be using this technique again as I have quite a bit of thin strips like this going, you can't even tell which is nice.


----------



## thetyreman

Rodpr said:


> Made a maamoul cookie mould for my son-in-law who is a chef. My first go at dual axis turning and 'serrations' were carved with flexcut v gouge


I hope you got some free cookies for making it.


----------



## Rodpr

thetyreman said:


> I hope you got some free cookies for making it.


Not yet, but I'd better!


----------



## murphy

What are cookies?


----------



## skeetstar

Something you get from the Internet, I think.


----------



## Rodpr

skeetstar said:


> Something you get from the Internet, I think.


And they have dates in!


----------



## thetyreman

another custom microphone box made for a very special mic...


----------



## Fitzroy

thetyreman said:


> another microphone box made.


The only way to kill a microphone is a stake through the heart. Needs a little cloak to wear in his box.


----------



## J-G

I was somewhat surprised (and indeed heartened) to see so many [likes] to my post about the little box I made. Such that I thought that you might like to see the finished product. My grandson has elected to work part-time so that he can spend his 'free' days making jewelery so I thought that he would welcome the oportunity to make my Sister a broach for her 80th which is today (we are making a surprise visit tomorrow).​
























​You may notice that I added an extra item after the initial design work -- the pin that lifts the lid once the catch is released -- I found that there was no indication that the catch had been activated so this sprung pin just pushed the lid up about a mm. The spring is 1.5mm Ø, 9mm long and the brass pin passes through a 1.6mm hole in a 4mm Ø Ebony collar.​Here is a shot prior to final assembly showing most of the components in their respective positions


----------



## D_W

Pair of knives in aeb-l steel, thin bladed. Handles are macassar ebony. Style on the handle on the bigger knife is comfortable, but it's a big miss visually. Finish is ca glue with #0000 steel wool surface.


----------



## rob1693

Made this children's bench for grandkids from a pallet i acquired piece in front is whats left of it


----------



## Fred48

Rob
Lovely job
Fred


----------



## rob1693

Fred48 said:


> Rob
> Lovely job
> Fred


Thanks paint job was a pain but enjoyed the build


----------



## Thingybob

rob1693 said:


> Made this children's bench for grandkids from a pallet i acquired piece in front is whats left of itView attachment 148871
> View attachment 148872
> View attachment 148873


Lovely recycling kids will love it P.S. I thought Ronnie Biggs told you to get rid of the mail bags


----------



## gilbert

Don't do much fine woodwork, I am a painter and make fine art stretchers and stretch my own canvases. I found this 1909 Langdon, Millers Falls mitre box on a garage trail in Sydney recently. Missing the near backsaw guide so I made another from some Chinchilla Gum I bought years ago. Fixed it with epoxy. Just in the process of tuning it. Don't have a 28 inch mitre saw so using this panel saw instead.


----------



## OldGreyDog

Not proper woodwork - just a bit of fun…


----------



## Jameshow

gilbert said:


> View attachment 148889
> 
> 
> View attachment 148890
> 
> Don't do much fine woodwork, I am a painter and make fine art stretchers and stretch my own canvases. I found this 1909 Langdon, Millers Falls mitre box on a garage trail in Sydney recently. Missing the near backsaw guide so I made another from some Chinchilla Gum I bought years ago. Fixed it with epoxy. Just in the process of tuning it. Don't have a 28 inch mitre saw so using this panel saw instead.


You cannot say that without showing your paintings!!!


----------



## gilbert

Jameshow said:


> You cannot say that without showing your paintings!!!








gilbertgrace.com – art + ecology + quality of life







gilbertgrace.com


----------



## Bigbadmarky

I made a couple of Sapele Christmas trees in keeping with the festive period. 



Pretty simple and fun to make. I need to work on the finish though. They're a bit rough on closer inspection. 
Cheers, 
BBM


----------



## Padster

Well some of you saw the theory with the river board... here is the actual table and will be Christmas pressie for my daughter

Here is the original wood (apple)








Here is the finished bottom





And the finished top





The complete table





With it's big brother





And finally one with the background removed by apple - but also some of the legs ;-)






Regards

Padster


----------



## nosuchhounds

Just fitted a veritas face vice to my Sellars inspired bench. Still not sure whether or not to lose the rear jaw and just go straight into the apron. Still need to actually attach the vice mechanism to the outer jaw, didnt have the correct screws


----------



## pulleyt

This year's Christmas gifts for the family. Made with 4mm x 12mm maple strips for the triangular framework and 2.2mm x 12mm strips for the internal patterns. They are finished by a short soak in mineral oil and hung for a couple of days to dry.






It's up to the recipient how they want to use them but my idea is a table mat. But they could be a hanging ornament.

In all I made 34 - I'd hoped to make more but it was more time consuming than I expected.


----------



## thetyreman

great work @pulleyt I can't imagine the hours that must go into that.


----------



## Orraloon

nosuchhounds said:


> Just fitted a veritas face vice to my Sellars inspired bench. Still not sure whether or not to lose the rear jaw and just go straight into the apron. Still need to actually attach the vice mechanism to the outer jaw, didnt have the correct screws


Loose the rear jaw and be flush with the apron. You'r bench will be much more functional when you get to holding big boards and panels. Over the years I have had the vice both ways but being flush to the bench front is a great improvement.
Regards
John


----------



## Doug B

A bit of a rush job for a furniture maker 10 ash legs with beads


----------



## nosuchhounds

Orraloon said:


> Loose the rear jaw and be flush with the apron. You'r bench will be much more functional when you get to holding big boards and panels. Over the years I have had the vice both ways but being flush to the bench front is a great improvement.
> Regards
> John




Took your advice on board. It was what i originally wanted to do, not sure why i didnt. Much better plus eliminates the extra possibility of deviation in mismeasurment! Plus added a tool holder/planing stop


----------



## Phil Pascoe

My inside jaw is flush with front edge (no apron) but it's an inset replaceable jaw. I do put things things in it that probably shouldn't be put in it (as do many of us) so it can be replaced as and when.


----------



## paulrbarnard

Phil Pascoe said:


> My inside jaw is flush with front edge (no apron) but it's an inset replaceable jaw. I do put things things in it that probably shouldn't be put in it (as do many of us) so it can be replaced as and when.


Same here. My bench is softwood but the jaw faces are maple.


----------



## nosuchhounds

I think i will replace my jaws with hard wood eventually


----------



## Doug71

I haven't posted anything for a while so here are some shutters I finished off today, sorry the photos are awful!

Folding shutters for two windows, the windows had splayed reveals and everything was out of plumb and level in every direction possible which made it a bit of a challenge 

They are made out of Accoya and MR MDF so hopefully there will be no movement. Customer will be painting them.







The curtains will be coming down now the shutters are in. I think my phone camera lens was steamed up as I'd just come inside after being outside in the freezing cold.






Out of plumb walls






Seems shutters are the in thing at the moment, everybody is asking for them!


----------



## thetyreman

nosuchhounds said:


> I think i will replace my jaws with hard wood eventually


if you do, don't use oak, it splits eventually on the edges.


----------



## Orraloon

nosuchhounds said:


> I think i will replace my jaws with hard wood eventually


There are a couple of ways to look at that. Hardwood will last better but softwood grips better. On my lifelong search for the better bench I have tried quite a few woods for vice jaws and they all work. Some attach leather to the jaws for grip but you cant keep the flush bench front if you do on a face vice. I hedged my bets and lined the end vice with leather. Not so much for grip but for delicate small stuff.
Regards
John


----------



## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> I did


----------



## mrpercysnodgrass

I can't normally post photos of my work because they are for trade or collectors but I got commissioned to make a reproduction of a bedside cabinet for a ninety year old couple! The one on the right is my effort made entirely out of period timber, the carcass, top and legs were made from an early 19th century dining table and the oak and pine drawer linings from 19th century drawer linings, the locks are also period although not as good a quality as the original ones.The ivory escutcheons were made from piano keys. The tops look a bit streaky as they are not yet finished! It was a fun job to do and the clients were delighted.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

This is an eminently practical, but far from beautiful project, unless there is beauty in the simple.

I decided that I have too few horizontal surfaces in the workshop so put other projects on hold. I now have at least an extra 35 (there are 3 more shelves that I can use that have been made and finished) this gives me an extra 7.4 square meters (or 8 sqm) for me to try to excavate my tools and workbench's from under the c+r+a+p sorry useful stuff. They are in progress of being filled at the moment.





this is the shelf end detail 




I have also made some better rustic tables to use in my paint/finishing room (I really need to hang the door to that room) I have a reasonably large supply of virtually free eucalyptus.




Along with the finishing tables I've made a shelving unit that I may add doors to, to reduce the overspray dust.




FWIW all the shelf boxes have been hung on my French cleat system. So far I haven’t found the weight limit to a single French cleat rail.


----------



## sometimewoodworker

This was going to be part of the above post but was caught by the 10 picture limit

The weather here is in the best season for visitors, being cold at night under 20 degrees C but over 10 C, pleasant in the daytime, with the maximum between 22C and 30C with almost guaranteed sunshine everyday. It's not until you get that that the English grey overcast becomes so noticeable. This weather will be standard for about the next two months, then for the next 4 it gets hot, but again almost no rain.

there are a couple of gratuitous pictures of the garden, but I have included the eucalyptus store very simple, very quick eucalyptus spray in table, so it is actually a project post.








FWIW I never thought that I would say that we have too many bananas or too much jackfruit for us to eat


----------



## joshvegas

No pictures because it's dark and cold. But I made my kitchen waste pipe significantly shorter and far less functional trying to clear the 1m long iceberg in it.


----------



## Phil Pascoe

Phil Pascoe said:


> My inside jaw is flush with front edge (no apron) but it's an inset replaceable jaw. I do put things things in it that probably shouldn't be put in it (as do many of us) so it can be replaced as and when.





paulrbarnard said:


> Same here. My bench is softwood but the jaw faces are maple.


My top is hardwood, the vice jaws after a lifetime of their being hardwood are now softwood. They deform when I hold things that really should be in a metalworking vice, and are sacrificial.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Technically I've only started this but it's so gorgeous already I want to share, made a bowl blank from spalted Sycamore, I'm running very low on this stuff now, it's 9.5inch diameter and about 4 to 5inches deep, will possibly become a yarn bowl.


----------



## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> Technically I've only started this but it's so gorgeous already I want to share, made a bowl blank from splayed Sycamore, I'm running very low on this stuff now, it's 9.5inch diameter and about 4 to 5inches deep, will possibly become a yarn bowl.
> View attachment 149103
> View attachment 149104
> View attachment 149105
> View attachment 149106
> View attachment 149107


that's beautiful


----------



## Lefley

doing alder doors, have to antique them now and spray with lacquer. wrapped in plastic as i was spraying paint in shop,


----------



## niall Y

mrpercysnodgrass said:


> I can't normally post photos of my work because they are for trade or collectors but I got commissioned to make a reproduction of a bedside cabinet for a ninety year old couple! The one on the right is my effort made entirely out of period timber, the carcass, top and legs were made from an early 19th century dining table and the oak and pine drawer linings from 19th century drawer linings, the locks are also period although not as good a quality as the original ones.The ivory escutcheons were made from piano keys. The tops look a bit streaky as they are not yet finished! It was a fun job to do and the clients were delighted.


Beautiful.... a true 'Sexton Blake' - if ever I saw one.


----------



## Lefley

mrpercysnodgrass said:


> I can't normally post photos of my work because they are for trade or collectors but I got commissioned to make a reproduction of a bedside cabinet for a ninety year old couple! The one on the right is my effort made entirely out of period timber, the carcass, top and legs were made from an early 19th century dining table and the oak and pine drawer linings from 19th century drawer linings, the locks are also period although not as good a quality as the original ones.The ivory escutcheons were made from piano keys. The tops look a bit streaky as they are not yet finished! It was a fun job to do and the clients were delighted.


wowzers, there are beautiful,


----------



## Lefley

nosuchhounds said:


> Just fitted a veritas face vice to my Sellars inspired bench. Still not sure whether or not to lose the rear jaw and just go straight into the apron. Still need to actually attach the vice mechanism to the outer jaw, didnt have the correct screws


that rear jaw can be handy , even if you make it so it can be taken out if you want. that's what i'd do.


----------



## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> @stenik @Fred48 thanks guys, technically I'm not supposed to set up my stall until everyone else gets in tomorrow at 11 but seeing as I'm the caretaker and have the keys I decided to set up this evening because I'm a rebel like that  I may have taken it a little too seriously though and gone ott with it
> View attachment 148422
> 
> View attachment 148423




i need to have more than. one secret santa guy! If it's not in the stars to be paired with you next year maybe i'll just have to have a second secret secret santa friend!

beautiful work. hope all goes well!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> i need to have more than. one secret santa guy! If it's not in the stars to be paired with you next year maybe i'll just have to have a second secret secret santa friend!
> 
> beautiful work. hope all goes well!


From you that truly is a compliment ☺ I would be more than happy to exchange gifts with you anytime


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> Technically I've only started this but it's so gorgeous already I want to share, made a bowl blank from spalted Sycamore, I'm running very low on this stuff now, it's 9.5inch diameter and about 4 to 5inches deep, will possibly become a yarn bowl.
> View attachment 149103
> View attachment 149104
> View attachment 149105
> View attachment 149106
> View attachment 149107


I've got some of that, next time I'm passing I'll lob your way!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> I've got some of that, next time I'm passing I'll lob your way!


I'll never refuse wood  was great to meet you on Sunday


----------



## paulrbarnard

No picture but I just did the annual refinish of our kitchen worktops, which are oak. This year was a bit different as I now have a ROS . The ease of doing it with power rather than card scrapers encouraged me to do the rather dinged up top of the sideboard too. 

I always do the worktops in the week or two before Christmas so they are looking their best when the family comes round. 

Does anyone else have an annual wood related ritual?


----------



## Stigmorgan

paulrbarnard said:


> Does anyone else have an annual wood related ritual?


Nothing I can say out loud on a public forum ☺☺☺


----------



## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> Nothing I can say out loud on a public forum ☺☺☺


Your privileged!


----------



## NickVanBeest

Started building the base frame for the new workshop, which is due for delivery on the 22nd


----------



## D_W

One more knife - this time for me. .08" AEB-L stainless, probably about 61 hardness. rosewood handles. I made another one of this pattern for someone else, pictured earlier, and thought I would like to have it. but I now have five or six chef's knives of my own to figure out later.

this one still could use a little bit more finish in the front handle notch, and then I'll trim the last bit of filth that remains above the heel (it's just glue or something) and trim the glue at the front of the handle off so that it's crisp. That is just done with a fresh burr on a card scraper. it'll cut through finish easily, but the blade hardness will prevent it from marking the knife at all, even if the burr isn't very neat. 






Aesthetics of making are getting better, but could still improve. As i've gotten older, I find it more interesting to figure out how to do things more neatly with repetition, and actually decreasing time to make each one vs. getting absurd with overly careful process and increasing time. 

I did learn a lesson on this one. the handle finish is CA, so adding more in the front divot won't be any issue. It's not hard to add CA, but it's kind of miserable, so after filling the pores, I tried to switch to brushing lacquer. but even with a mechanical sanding (220 grit), the lacquer didn't adhere enough and as I was leveling it, some of a patch about the size of a BB broke loose. that was enough to kind of ruin the whole thing and I went all the way back to wood and just did CA. I don't know that a transition of shellac would improve things, but i'm trying to get to a decent moderate gloss handle faster and not slower with more steps. 

so, it's either lacquer or CA, but not both. 

The virtue of CA is that you can put it on and fill pores at the same time and it won't shrink back like lacquer and shellac wil. 



This knife is blinding sharp, and I leave the heel on. I got nicked by it on two different fingers and it was almost a "nerve" less cut not felt at all.


----------



## Blackswanwood

Cherry and Masur Birch jewellery box


----------



## cowtown_eric

Your browser is not able to display this video.






A vacuum adapter for our makerspace jet 1236 lathe!

Now to fabricate the chuck!

Eric in the colonies


----------



## D_W

A pair of stainless card scrapers made on a whim. As in, if a card scraper works well in 1095, but would be brittle if it was harder (it would be), what about a steel that has a higher toughness by a factor of about four and that will tolerate having a burr rolled when it's harder.

Same steel as I use in a harder temper for knives shown here, but tempered back to be just barely suitable for filing, or probably high 50s hardness.






Turns out to work really well and create a stronger really fine burr, but hard on files, and possibly hard on burnishers.

The fineness of the burr and the hardness makes it easier to have a burr that doesn't roll over too far and so far, doesn't get ratty very easily. Without having to prep the edge and face with a fine stone - the shavings below are off of india stone prep only after filing, and using a very small piece of polished carbide rod.






After finding out that this steel makes really thin knives that are almost impractical unless they're tiny (everything sticks to them on a taller knife due to the lack of wedging), I was mildly concerned that I wouldn't be able to figure out what to do with the very thin stock steel.

Not that much of a "make", just bar stock that I hardened and tempered and prepped. But sometimes curiosity is best addressed by satisfying it rather than stuffing it off.

One other aside - the cards are definitely a lot stiffer than typical spring, but they won't break. It's noticeable and there's no need to really thumb them close to the edge - not necessarily a bad thing if your thumbs are temp sensitive.

well, and I guess they won't rust. but hopefully that's not a practical issue for most.


----------



## Lefley

work install, cabinet doors and cabinets i've been spraying now almost all installed.


----------



## ColinDeVelen

Except for the purchased curtain rings for the noughts, this was all done by hand.


----------



## ColinDeVelen

The wood is all the same piece, I just used two different shellac to get the different shade on the door. The inside is a piece of 30mm polystyrene with red velvet over the top.


----------



## Tris

A pallet wood Xmas scene and quick project inspired by a Scandinavian turner whose name escapes me at the moment.


----------



## Lefley

Kay bojesen i believe


----------



## Lefley

Tris said:


> A pallet wood Xmas scene and quick project inspired by a Scandinavian turner whose name escapes me at the moment. View attachment 149482
> View attachment 149481


i love what you have made. those animals , are actually hard to make. if not right proportions they look off. you did a very nice job. they are awesome woodturning practice for skill building,


----------



## Tris

Thank you for those kind words Lefley. I've not had much time for turning this year but have been watching Steve Jones (woodturner21 on YouTube) recently and was inspired to break out the skew chisel


----------



## Jorny

Blackswanwood said:


> Cherry and Masur Birch jewellery box
> 
> View attachment 149238
> View attachment 149239
> 
> 
> View attachment 149240
> 
> 
> View attachment 149242



Very pretty! Good and tasteful use of masur birch! A lot of details and pattern without making it busy.


----------



## Doug B

some last minute turning.






Temporary cabinet knobs turned to the specs of metal ones that have failed to arrive in time to be fitted before Xmas 





Turned from recycled hemlock which gave a nice finish


----------



## Lefley

Lefley said:


> work install, cabinet doors and cabinets i've been spraying now almost all installed.


top of doors finished now.


----------



## paulrbarnard

I’ve made my first foray into the world of MFT. I bought the Tim Wilkerson plans for an MFTC, MFT Cart.

Plenty of screw ups along the way, starting with the choice of the cheapest ply I could get from B&Q. It was also my first time using a track saw and dominoes. So really this is my first power tools project.

The real wood bits are Beech. I bought a few planks of it about five years ago and now having a saw that can cut it decided to put it to use.















Edited to change the solid wood the beech not birch…


----------



## Jameshow

How does it fold up? 

I'm struggling to understand like a Stuart joke!


----------



## paulrbarnard

Jameshow said:


> How does it fold up?
> 
> I'm struggling to understand like a Stuart joke!


The white tray is removable, it locates on dominoes on the rail and a support on the cart. Once that is removed the legs hinge inwards to fit against the table and then the table hinges down. The tray then fits in the gap between the top and the cart. The handle slides up and is locked in position with toggle clips.


----------



## Fitzroy

Excuse the mess but insulating an in use workshop is a nightmare. I put up the new LED lights and omg what a difference.


----------



## NickVanBeest

Workshop 2.0 is up, what a difference with 1.0!





Confession, I did not built it myself, but I did build the base frame


----------



## Jester129

@paulrbarnard, your workplace is just too tidy! LOL


----------



## paulrbarnard

Jester129 said:


> @paulrbarnard, your workplace is just too tidy! LOL


It just underwent a forced tidy up. It was the “do it or I will” ultimatum…

It’s actually even dust and shavings free now as I spent a few hours today with the vacuum and brush. 

Not to worry though it will be knee deep again soon.


----------



## David with splinters

David with splinters said:


> guitar build stage 2 complete. Neck roughed out. Trussrod and fretboard next.
























Sorry to have been silent on my guitar builds but have been busy. Anyway, here you go. 

I made the trussrod for this fretless bass neck. The neck is maple, fretboard is Australian Sheoak which is hard as steel but lovely to work. 

Happy Christmas everyone. 

David


----------



## NickDReed

Couple of small gifts I've made for this Christmas. 

My brother is getting the drinking game (only so I can re gift him the vile chocolate gin he regifted to me last year) I think this is jarrah, very dense and heavy. Someone wiser let me know if I'm mistaken please. 









Second is a twig vase for my mum from leylandii that was previously a hedge in my folks garden. 









As with everything I make I only focus on the flaws, hopefully they won't. 

Merry Christmas all.


----------



## Doug B

I’ve recently been learning cad drawing on the v carve free program & a mate offered to let me loose on his CNC under his watchful eye, so I took the opportunity to make a couple of bases for router plates.





Only basic stuff so far but I’m really happy with the results


----------



## kinverkid

My builder nephew dropped off some interesting crate/pallet wood. I've not got a clue what it is but I thought I might make myself an adjustable sewing pony for my leather work from it. It hand planes beautifully, a few tear-outs to contend with. I'm still on light duties but I considered this to be light enough to have a go at.










I have one I can sit on if sewing in the garden, but it's a bit too cold to work out there or in the workshop. and I don't want to mark the house furniture with it.


----------



## Stigmorgan

NickDReed said:


> As with everything I make I only focus on the flaws, hopefully they won't.
> 
> Merry Christmas all.


I and probably most others are guilty of this, we just need to remind ourselves that we are the only ones that see flaws in our own work.


----------



## thetyreman

Stigmorgan said:


> I and probably most others are guilty of this, we just need to remind ourselves that we are the only ones that see flaws in our own work.


me too, I can be very harsh on myself.


----------



## Jameshow

NickDReed said:


> Couple of small gifts I've made for this Christmas.
> 
> My brother is getting the drinking game (only so I can re gift him the vile chocolate gin he regifted to me last year) I think this is jarrah, very dense and heavy. Someone wiser let me know if I'm mistaken please.
> 
> View attachment 149680
> View attachment 149681
> 
> 
> Second is a twig vase for my mum from leylandii that was previously a hedge in my folks garden.
> 
> View attachment 149682
> View attachment 149683
> 
> 
> As with everything I make I only focus on the flaws, hopefully they won't.
> 
> 
> 
> Merry Christmas all.



Best place for Leylandi imho!!


----------



## Graham Brazier

Four box’s made for family members for Xmas , got another five to finish off 

Veneers bought from craft veneers , burr pack of veneers so that determined the size of the box’s with oak veneer backing on lids 
Bottoms oak veneer both sides 

Oak burr
Olive ash burr
Karelian Burch burr
Rosewood ( Bombay or San Domingan) not sure 

Solid Oak sides and handle with I think iroko on the inside ( thin pieces not sure of a name for them ) 

Didn’t spline the mitres felt strong enough may do that on the other box’s

Rubio Monocoat finish


----------



## dzj

A waney edge table top. I followed the grain and cut away the sapwood, so not sure if it's a 'faux
live edge', but who cares. 
A quick glue up of some inferior quality stock and then off to the stroke sander.
A nice earner.


----------



## Lefley

paulrbarnard said:


> I’ve made my first foray into the world of MFT. I bought the Tim Wilkerson plans for an MFTC, MFT Cart.
> 
> Plenty of screw ups along the way, starting with the choice of the cheapest ply I could get from B&Q. It was also my first time using a track saw and dominoes. So really this is my first power tools project.
> 
> The real wood bits are Beech. I bought a few planks of it about five years ago and now having a saw that can cut it decided to put it to use.
> 
> View attachment 149605
> View attachment 149606
> View attachment 149607
> View attachment 149608
> 
> 
> Edited to change the solid wood the beech not birch…


This is on my list of things to make. It's @ long list but it's on there!


----------



## undergroundhunter

Here is a jewelry box in sapele, yew and ash that I made for my wife, 2 nice piston fit trays are a must. 

It was my first go at french polishing as well, I like the way it turned out.




















Your browser is not able to display this video.





Matt


----------



## Hallelujahal

Received a pen turning kit from Santa and this is my first attempt.


----------



## Doug71

Does this count 
















The kids uncle always buys them fake Lego for Christmas, the kids won't touch it as it never fits together properly so it was just sitting there in the box and I couldn't resist!


----------



## Stigmorgan

Doug71 said:


> Does this count
> 
> View attachment 149871
> 
> 
> View attachment 149872
> 
> 
> View attachment 149873
> 
> 
> The kids uncle always buys them fake Lego for Christmas, the kids won't touch it as it never fits together properly so it was just sitting there in the box and I couldn't resist!


If you're a Lego fan look for the tv programme Lego Masters Australia, there's a USA and a UK version but they're nowhere near as good. The builds ate out of this world.


----------



## bp122

Waney edge dip tray made for my mother in law and sister in law (one each)

The bowls came from a cheese melt product that we use a lot, so we had quite a few kicking about.

It looks like Ash, but could be oak, not sure. Legs are walnut.

Took the bark out using chisels.

My first project with de-barking as a step.
Cocked up the stamp!


----------



## Fred48

bp122 said:


> Waney edge dip tray made for my mother in law and sister in law (one each)
> 
> The bowls came from a cheese melt product that we use a lot, so we had quite a few kicking about.
> 
> It looks like Ash, but could be oak, not sure. Legs are walnut.
> 
> Took the bark out using chisels.
> 
> My first project with de-barking as a step.
> Cocked up the stamp!
> View attachment 149916
> View attachment 149917
> View attachment 149918
> View attachment 149919
> View attachment 149920
> View attachment 149921
> View attachment 149922
> View attachment 149923


@bp122
Lovely job. Looking at your forth image I believe the medullary rays visible on the end grain indicate that this is oak and not ash. 
cheers
Fred


----------



## Bruce Mack

DTR said:


> This is a bit of an experiment. Most forums I've been on have had a "Post pics of [something topical]" thread, but not this one. There's probably a good reason for that, but I'm going to stick my neck out anyway.
> 
> The idea is, quite simply, to post a photo of the last thing you made. It can be something quite insignificant, a component of something bigger, or a completed project. It can be something that's not thread-worthy on its own, or it can be something that already has a 9 page WIP thread in the Projects section, it really doesn't matter! It's just a bit of fun, but hopefully it will generate some discussion too.
> 
> So here's my offering to get the ball rolling. I could have posted a photo of a mug of tea, but that's hardly relevant. This is a replacement guide knob for SWMBO's Burgess bandsaw. Formally it was in the care of her Dad, who isn't the most mechanically minded, hence why it needed a bit of a spruce up before going back into service!



This Lazy Kate was made for a friend who spins yarn from her alpacas and then interlaces the yarn. The oak board from which it was made had a knot hole which is incorporated into the base. The stainless steel rods and knobs were made to mate with filing (a chainsaw file chucked into a portable drill to enlarge the hole a bit) and hammer blows. The mahogany stain was applied as a glaze to an initial coat of shellac and was protected with a final coat of Tru-Oil, a product used chiefly on gunstocks. This sequence is alchemy, not thoughtful intent, but my friend says the color closely matches the color of her Kromski spinning wheel.


----------



## sawtooth-9

Bruce Mack said:


> This Lazy Kate was made for a friend who spins yarn from her alpacas and then interlaces the yarn. The oak board from which it was made had a knot hole which is incorporated into the base. The stainless steel rods and knobs were made to mate with filing (a chainsaw file chucked into a portable drill to enlarge the hole a bit) and hammer blows. The mahogany stain was applied as a glaze to an initial coat of shellac and was protected with a final coat of Tru-Oil, a product used chiefly on gunstocks. This sequence is alchemy, not thoughtful intent, but my friend says the color closely matches the color of her Kromski spinning wheel.


Nice job. Well done.
You might find one of my earlier threads " Twisted " of interest.
Herself, spins Suri Alpaca, so have made a few bits to help along the way.


----------



## Thingybob

Am I seeing things or did the first ever post in this thread just get re posted from 10 years ago


----------



## Bruce Mack

I did it inadvertently. Sadly, I could not figure out how to post without referencing the initial post. I'd be grateful if you could instruct me.


----------



## Yojevol

Bruce Mack said:


> I did it inadvertently. Sadly, I could not figure out how to post without referencing the initial post. I'd be grateful if you could instruct me.


Now that you've appeared again Bruce, you can answer a question that came into my mind just a few days ago:-
Does the originator of this thread get a notification every time another post is added?
Brian


----------



## Bruce Mack

Yojevol said:


> Now that you've appeared again Bruce, you can answer a question that came into my mind just a few days ago:-
> Does the originator of this thread get a notification every time another post is added?
> Brian


Brian, I am just a late responder and not the originator.


----------



## Yojevol

Bruce Mack said:


> Brian, I am just a late responder and not the originator.


Perhaps @MikeK can answer the question


----------



## Stigmorgan

Yojevol said:


> Now that you've appeared again Bruce, you can answer a question that came into my mind just a few days ago:-
> Does the originator of this thread get a notification every time another post is added?
> Brian


The originator needs to watch the thread the same as the rest of us.


----------



## Yojevol

A


Stigmorgan said:


> The originator needs to watch the thread the same as the rest of us.


I'll answer my own question. It looks as though the originator left the scene some 3½ years ago after 3075 posts on this thread, This is the 8130th so I guess he's not seeing them anymore.


----------



## MikeK

Bruce Mack said:


> I did it inadvertently. Sadly, I could not figure out how to post without referencing the initial post. I'd be grateful if you could instruct me.


To create a new post in any thread, go to the bottom of the window and start typing:








Stigmorgan said:


> The originator needs to watch the thread the same as the rest of us.



Correct. Any thread can be watched by any member, with or without email notification, by selecting the "Watch" link at the top of the screen. After selecting "Watch", the link will change to "Unwatch". This will allow you to stop watching a thread.









Yojevol said:


> I'll answer my own question. It looks as though the originator left the scene some 3½ years ago after 3075 posts on this thread, This is the 8130th so I guess he's not seeing them anymore.



This happens.


----------



## Rewound

Only two of the items have made recently, one so recently the oil is still tacky! and neither were the wonderful table or mug.


----------



## Yojevol

MikeK said:


> To create a new post in any thread, go to the bottom of the window and start typing:
> 
> View attachment 150103
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Correct. Any thread can be watched by any member, with or without email notification, by selecting the "Watch" link at the top of the screen. After selecting "Watch", the link will change to "Unwatch". This will allow you to stop watching a thread.
> 
> View attachment 150104
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This happens.


Thanks for that Mike. I'd never taken any notice of that box before.
So, in brief, it is assumed that the OP wants to watch his own thread (seems natural), but if he doesn't he can unwatch it from that box and therefore not receive any more notifications.
Brian


----------



## eribaMotters

Something different. I haven't used my Hegner for a long time and thought a sign for our bathroom might be an idea, inspired by one I saw at Dundee V&A. 6mm birch ply on painted mdf backboard.

Colin


----------



## Andy's Shed

I made my first platter this week and although I should have made a wider recess for better stability, I'm rather chuffed with how it turned out. I also turned a couple of Tea Light holders from a bit of Oak that I had spare, one of them has pith and a couple of faults in the wood, I'm just calling it character.


----------



## benitod

This is a WIP that I hope to finish today.


----------



## Rewound

Andy's Shed said:


> I made my first platter this week and although I should have made a wider recess for better stability, I'm rather chuffed with how it turned out. I also turned a couple of Tea Light holders from a bit of Oak that I had spare, one of them has pith and a couple of faults in the wood, I'm just calling it character.
> 
> View attachment 150135
> 
> 
> View attachment 150136


In picture one, how is it supported on the lathe?
I take it that a dovetail chuck will support the tennon you have made on the underneath, but how did you support it to create the tennon?


----------



## peterw3035

Three home made oval shaker boxes successfully gifted to my three favourite girls for Christmas. The product of some new woodworking skills learned from a master craftsman earlier in the year. The most tactile and appreciated gifts I've made to date


----------



## peterw3035

and a quick cheese board knocked up on Christmas Eve, wishing everyone a happy New Year


----------



## Stigmorgan

Rewound said:


> In picture one, how is it supported on the lathe?
> I take it that a dovetail chuck will support the tennon you have made on the underneath, but how did you support it to create the tennon?


Most likely with a faceplate or possibly a woodworm screw


----------



## Andy's Shed

Rewound said:


> In picture one, how is it supported on the lathe?
> I take it that a dovetail chuck will support the tennon you have made on the underneath, but how did you support it to create the tennon?


It was with a small faceplate that came with the chuck.


----------



## stenik

Small bowl and bud vase for the last turning of 2022. It's been a steep learning curve and YouTube has taken a battering (even the wife knows who Richard Raffen and Glen Teagle are now ) but as they say the best way to learn is to have a go.
Happy new year to all


----------



## kinverkid

stenik said:


> (even the wife knows who Richard Raffen and Glen Teagle are now )


My first woodturning book was by Richard Raffan. No home internet then (the early eighties).


----------



## Shan

stenik said:


> Small bowl and bud vase for the last turning of 2022. It's been a steep learning curve and YouTube has taken a battering (even the wife knows who Richard Raffen and Glen Teagle are now ) but as they say the best way to learn is to have a go.
> Happy new year to all


Stenik, I like the way that you left some of the bark on the bud vase. I often do it with some stuff I turn as well. 1st look I thought it was a mallet! Opps! Happy spinning a happy New year! 🖒🖒🖒


----------



## Yojevol

Chicken pie (and other life essentials) I, no we, made yesterday. Ready for lunch with our local mates in an hour's
time.
Best wishes everyone for a better year in 2023.
Brian


----------



## Stigmorgan

stenik said:


> Small bowl and bud vase for the last turning of 2022. It's been a steep learning curve and YouTube has taken a battering (even the wife knows who Richard Raffen and Glen Teagle are now ) but as they say the best way to learn is to have a go.
> Happy new year to all


Some beautiful work there  I love keeping a piece of bark or inclusion if I'm able to. The beading on the bud vase is very clean and crisp. What finishes did you use?


----------



## stenik

Stigmorgan said:


> Some beautiful work there  I love keeping a piece of bark or inclusion if I'm able to. The beading on the bud vase is very clean and crisp. What finishes did you use?


Thank you stig . The beads where done using the technique that I saw Mr Raffen demonstrating on his YouTube channel. Didn't realise how effective they could be and look!. 2 coats of friction polish was all I used on the vase.


----------



## dzj

A pair of Oak grid top coffee tables.
IIRC, the legs and aprons are to be metal. Welded, probably black.


----------



## NickDReed

Made a scratch post for the boss. First time she's not has a string one, so remains to be seen if she approves.


----------



## Fitzroy

Finished the workshop insulating and timber racking installation. Tested the high racks by hanging on one of them, took my 110kgs without flinching, with 7 of them I figured that’s 770kgs of wood. There is no where near that on them but still bloody nervous putting some of the big boards up.

So happy to have a functioning workshop back. Need to get back to my workbench project now.


----------



## benitod

benitod said:


> This is a WIP that I hope to finish today.
> View attachment 150142


Already finished with mineral oil.


----------



## MarkAW

I like your floor @Fitzroy. Is that leftover scraps of wood? (The rest of the workshop too)


----------



## Fitzroy

MarkAW said:


> I like your floor @Fitzroy. Is that leftover scraps of wood? (The rest of the workshop too)


It was a load of flooring samples I found on gumtree, turned out a flooring shop was closing down. I got about 30m2 of flooring for £60. A bargain until it took me god knows how many hours to fit. All different thicknesses and T&G offsets. I had to re thickness and re cut the T&G on most of it. Took soooo long, but I love it.


----------



## Stigmorgan

Finally got to spend a little time out at the lathe today, rounded off the spalted Sycamore that I mounted 2 weeks ago, it's extremely punky so soaked it in CA but it didn't soak into the wood very much so huge pieces tore out, I may have to sand it to shape then harden it and do the similar on the following, there was a low spot that would have made the bowl too shallow so I filled it with a mixture of polyurethane resin and car body filler, it's what I have to hand as I use it for my costume armour, to add a little sparkle I mixed in some glitter.




















Once that was done I mounted a piece of 4x4 fence post and turned a twig pot, for some reason my bowl gouge went blunt within a few turns, I think the knots in the wood were too hard, at one point the tip of the gouge actually turned black, still I kept on and got it shaped, sanded to 320g then decided to try out my new texturing tool from secret Santa and I'm fairly happy with the result, need more practice with it, I also found a set of burs I bought for the Drexel that fit the texturing tool  then I finished with a coat of linseed oil.


----------



## undergroundhunter

Nothing too special, just a rack to hold all my files, got sick of them in a drawer.

Made from a recycled pine kitchen cupboard door that I was given years ago.


----------



## Graham Brazier

Couple of box’s I’ve recently made for family /friends was part of a 10 box making session


----------



## lee celtic

Found the trunk from last years Christmas tree.. bit Knarly but managed to turn out a bud vase and a couple of toadstools.. one had chipped bark so turned the chip into a mouse nibble.. lol


----------



## Molynoox

dzj said:


> A pair of Oak grid top coffee tables.
> IIRC, the legs and aprons are to be metal. Welded, probably black.
> 
> View attachment 150252


Those waffles look delicious.


----------



## Padster

Just a trio of tea light holders....












Regards

Padster


----------



## benitod

Padster said:


> Just a trio of tea light holders....
> 
> View attachment 150378
> View attachment 150379
> View attachment 150380
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Padster


Hi Padster.
Mines are not as cute as yours.


----------



## Padster

benitod said:


> Hi Padster.
> Mines are not as cute as yours.


Look like they work to me!


----------



## NathanJT

Not only the last thing I made but actually the first piece of furniture I've made.

Ripped out the old built in wardrobes because they were terribly inefficient use of the space.






Built 4 seperate carcasses with matching top boxes from 18mm MR MDF, bolting them onto a plinth. Added IKEA lighting (Green masking tap over the sensors).











Routed a vertical channel into the side of the tall shelving unit and added a motion triggered LED light strip. Still had some touching up to do on the paint work here, nicely highlighted by the lights!






All finished off with doors made by Homestyle, we wanted a gloss finish in the end and there was no way I'd be able to achieve this, so bit the bullet and had them made:






Just waiting now to get the rest of the room decorated (need a bit of plastering done as well), after which I'll scribe the infills and finish them.

I'd just like to also say a big thanks to all of you that commented on my posts, this help immensely not only in validating the choices I'd made but also helping my confidence to push on and get this done.

Next on the list is a new drinks cabinet for my new Perfect Draft Pro and my youngest wants his built in wardrobes ripping out and redoing as well!


----------



## J-G

Many of you were kind enough to [Like] the last item I posted on this thread (Early December) so I was encouraged to document the next [Box] I found myself having to make as a Christmas Present. A little larger than the Brooch Box at 135 x 130 x 50 mm but still using the same secret button/catch design.




My Grandson recently began his first ‘relationship’, a lovely girl who happens to be ‘into’ cats - having 3 Siamese. This gave me a ‘hook’ as to the design. The fact that I have some small sheets of Abalone made me consider using that as the Cats Eye.

I soon found a couple of images of Siamese and tested them for suitability. The second image quickly became the preferred one on a number of counts - - - It had a good ‘Eye’ but also an ‘Ear’ which could also be ‘picked out’ in a different colour Abalone.​



I’d already made the decision to make the box lid from some Hard Maple so as a contrast it made sense to make the ‘Cat’ from Olive - the main box is Amarican Black Walnut. I’ve done quite a bit of ‘inlaid’ work since I bought a Denford CNC machine about 2½ years ago so I knew I could cut a 2mm deep recess and the outline of the cat in Olive. Here’s the detail showing the Abalone Eye & Ear - also CNC'd - the eye is 6mm x 3mm, cut out with a 0.7mm Ø carbide mill using a DoC of 0.05mm!

The concept of a secret button/catch for the lid was well established but I’d previously made a box with a secret drawer as well but I hadn’t been happy with the method of retaining it - which was from the back - so I needed to design a new method of holding (& releasing) the drawer.

Bringing that to the front meant that all the mechanisms were incorporated into the 20mm high static front.​


This is the Front of the box with the various parts installed. . . . . 

. . . . . and here is an exploded view, anotated . . . . 




In this exploded view there is :
1 : Release Button (Ebony)
2 : 1mm Ø St.Steel Pin
3 : Retaining Hook - 2 Part, Plate (6x4mm) & Pin (6mm x 2mm Ø) Screwed together M2
4 : Main Catch (Body, Hook, Pivot Pin & Spring) 
5 : Release Pin Retainer (Ebony) 4mm Ø x 2mm with 1.6mm Ø hole
6 : Lid Lifting Pin (so that the Lid ‘pops’ open - Brass) 
7 & 10 : 1.5mm x 9.6mm Spring
8 : Drawer Release Button (Maple) 
11 : Drawer Catch Pressure Pin (2mm Ø Brass) 
12 : Drawer Catch Pivot (4mm Ø x 2mm Brass) 
13 : Drawer Catch (1mm Brass) 
14 : Pivot Pin (St. Steel)

The ‘Back’ originally had the hinges incorporated but after accidentally dropping the near completed box (at 12noon on Christmas Day!! - meeting the recipient at 1pm!) which destroyed the wooden versions so I decided to make them from Brass.​


















The image also shows the springs which force the drawer to open. These are 4mm Ø ~7mm free length and are retained by using close-fit Maple plugs 3mm long. The second image shows the hinge detail along with the ‘mortice’ into which the Brass Hinge is glued (CA). The next image shows the back fully assembled (The copper disc is my ‘signature’ which is a stamping of my Silversmith's Mark).​


​The base of the top section is lined with 100% Silk Velvet but with the best will in the world I couldn’t get an exact clean fit without some ‘ragged’ edge so I made some 2mm Quadrant to cover the small gaps (and inhibit future fraying!)



This also shows the Catch, Pop-Up & Drawer release Button in context. The drawer is also lined with the same Velvet which includes the sides, back & front, I’m trusting that fraying won’t be an issue here!

Finally, a photo' of the 'open' box where (if you have good eyesight) you can just about make out the 'Secret' button.






​​


----------



## Graham Brazier

First and poss last time playing with epoxy , solid piece of oak base , 1:24 scale , 3D printed numbers via Etsy 
It Was fun to do , made the former with MDF and covered it in tape prior to pouring , lots of sanding and polishing 

Some issues with paint form tne wheels reacting with the epoxy giving a slight haze at the top , but my friend loved it so all was good


----------



## Jameshow

Graham Brazier said:


> First and poss last time playing with epoxy , solid piece of oak base , 1:24 scale , 3D printed numbers via Etsy
> It Was fun to do , made the former with MDF and covered it in tape prior to pouring , lots of sanding and polishing
> 
> Some issues with paint form tne wheels reacting with the epoxy giving a slight haze at the top , but my friend loved it so all was good


He's not going far in that car!!


----------



## Fitzroy

NathanJT said:


> Not only the last thing I made but actually the first piece of furniture I've made.
> 
> Ripped out the old built in wardrobes because they were terribly inefficient use of the space.
> View attachment 150439
> 
> 
> Built 4 seperate carcasses with matching top boxes from 18mm MR MDF, bolting them onto a plinth. Added IKEA lighting (Green masking tap over the sensors).
> 
> View attachment 150440
> 
> 
> View attachment 150442
> 
> 
> Routed a vertical channel into the side of the tall shelving unit and added a motion triggered LED light strip. Still had some touching up to do on the paint work here, nicely highlighted by the lights!
> 
> View attachment 150441
> 
> 
> All finished off with doors made by Homestyle, we wanted a gloss finish in the end and there was no way I'd be able to achieve this, so bit the bullet and had them made:
> 
> View attachment 150443
> 
> 
> Just waiting now to get the rest of the room decorated (need a bit of plastering done as well), after which I'll scribe the infills and finish them.
> 
> I'd just like to also say a big thanks to all of you that commented on my posts, this help immensely not only in validating the choices I'd made but also helping my confidence to push on and get this done.
> 
> Next on the list is a new drinks cabinet for my new Perfect Draft Pro and my youngest wants his built in wardrobes ripping out and redoing as well!



Awesome, you must be chuffed to bits with your work and the outcome!


----------



## Stigmorgan

J-G said:


> Many of you were kind enough to [Like] the last item I posted on this thread (Early December) so I was encouraged to document the next [Box] I found myself having to make as a Christmas Present. A little larger than the Brooch Box at 135 x 130 x 50 mm but still using the same secret button/catch design.
> 
> View attachment 150449
> My Grandson recently began his first ‘relationship’, a lovely girl who happens to be ‘into’ cats - having 3 Siamese. This gave me a ‘hook’ as to the design. The fact that I have some small sheets of Abalone made me consider using that as the Cats Eye.
> 
> I soon found a couple of images of Siamese and tested them for suitability. The second image quickly became the preferred one on a number of counts - - - It had a good ‘Eye’ but also an ‘Ear’ which could also be ‘picked out’ in a different colour Abalone.​View attachment 150451
> 
> I’d already made the decision to make the box lid from some Hard Maple so as a contrast it made sense to make the ‘Cat’ from Olive - the main box is Amarican Black Walnut. I’ve done quite a bit of ‘inlaid’ work since I bought a Denford CNC machine about 2½ years ago so I knew I could cut a 2mm deep recess and the outline of the cat in Olive. Here’s the detail showing the Abalone Eye & Ear - also CNC'd - the eye is 6mm x 3mm, cut out with a 0.7mm Ø carbide mill using a DoC of 0.05mm!
> 
> The concept of a secret button/catch for the lid was well established but I’d previously made a box with a secret drawer as well but I hadn’t been happy with the method of retaining it - which was from the back - so I needed to design a new method of holding (& releasing) the drawer.
> 
> Bringing that to the front meant that all the mechanisms were incorporated into the 20mm high static front.​
> View attachment 150452​This is the Front of the box with the various parts installed. . . . .
> 
> . . . . . and here is an exploded view, anotated . . . .
> 
> View attachment 150454​
> In this exploded view there is :
> 1 : Release Button (Ebony)
> 2 : 1mm Ø St.Steel Pin
> 3 : Retaining Hook - 2 Part, Plate (6x4mm) & Pin (6mm x 2mm Ø) Screwed together M2
> 4 : Main Catch (Body, Hook, Pivot Pin & Spring)
> 5 : Release Pin Retainer (Ebony) 4mm Ø x 2mm with 1.6mm Ø hole
> 6 : Lid Lifting Pin (so that the Lid ‘pops’ open - Brass)
> 7 & 10 : 1.5mm x 9.6mm Spring
> 8 : Drawer Release Button (Maple)
> 11 : Drawer Catch Pressure Pin (2mm Ø Brass)
> 12 : Drawer Catch Pivot (4mm Ø x 2mm Brass)
> 13 : Drawer Catch (1mm Brass)
> 14 : Pivot Pin (St. Steel)
> 
> The ‘Back’ originally had the hinges incorporated but after accidentally dropping the near completed box (at 12noon on Christmas Day!! - meeting the recipient at 1pm!) which destroyed the wooden versions so I decided to make them from Brass.​View attachment 150456
> 
> View attachment 150455
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The image also shows the springs which force the drawer to open. These are 4mm Ø ~7mm free length and are retained by using close-fit Maple plugs 3mm long. The second image shows the hinge detail along with the ‘mortice’ into which the Brass Hinge is glued (CA). The next image shows the back fully assembled (The copper disc is my ‘signature’ which is a stamping of my Silversmith's Mark).​
> View attachment 150461​​The base of the top section is lined with 100% Silk Velvet but with the best will in the world I couldn’t get an exact clean fit without some ‘ragged’ edge so I made some 2mm Quadrant to cover the small gaps (and inhibit future fraying!)
> 
> View attachment 150462​This also shows the Catch, Pop-Up & Drawer release Button in context. The drawer is also lined with the same Velvet which includes the sides, back & front, I’m trusting that fraying won’t be an issue here!
> 
> Finally, a photo' of the 'open' box where (if you have good eyesight) you can just about make out the 'Secret' button.
> 
> View attachment 150463
> 
> 
> ​​


That's beautiful, enjoyed reading you're write up too


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## Doug71

I've got fed up of carrying around my heavy tool bag full of stuff I hardly ever use so I had a play around over Christmas and made these inserts for a Systainer tool tote to take my most used tools. The only stipulation was everything must go in and out really easily. They are a bit scruffy but it's only a tool box.

I'm thinking of becoming a Youtuber as I could quite happily spend my time making stuff like this but never actually making anything


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## NathanJT

Fitzroy said:


> Awesome, you must be chuffed to bits with your work and the outcome!


Absolutely! I probably spent more on tools than I really should but I don't have an excuse to not do more now. I also agonised over the details a bit too much but more confidence and practice will help there.


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## danst96

A couple of stacking end tables for our new house. I thought i would have a go making these from walnut veneered particle board, its probably the last time i will use it in this application, it was an absolute PITA when coming to finishing and sanding as so little room for error, ended up going through the veneer on the mitres in a couple of places even when sanding by hand so i need to think up some kind of fix for that.

Then I also got some foam flooring panels for my workshop to make it a bit more comfy. A great Costco find, cost around $150 all in for that lot which i was very happy with.

As you can see my workshop is very much a work in progress still but right now building furniture is a priority so it remains a tip and organised just about enough for me to work in it.


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## stuckinthemud

Christmas commission, hand carved flowerbed sign in recycled African mahogany (sapele???)


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## Stigmorgan

Well ladies and gents today I made...... a mess of my face. Came out to the maker space, checked the workpiece was secure between centres and started it up, was running at low gear so 450rpm and I wasn't a cut so change it to 3rd 2000rpm, turned it on and before it got to full speed it flew off and hit me square in the nose, I guess I'm lucky it was rounded off so no sharp pointy bits, luckily nothing is broken but oh boy was there a lot of blood, it's a bit sore and some may say it's made some improvements but it really does show how it only takes a split second for things to go wrong.


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## stuckinthemud

Owch! Glad your ok, could have been so much worse.


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## Stigmorgan

stuckinthemud said:


> Owch! Glad your ok, could have been so much worse.


Absolutely, just glad it hadn't reached full speed when it came off, a 9inch blank at 2000rpm could be devastating. Just fortunate I already had a face radio


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## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> Well ladies and gents today I made...... a mess of my face. Came out to the maker space, checked the workpiece was secure between centres and started it up, was running at low gear so 450rpm and I wasn't a cut so change it to 3rd 2000rpm, turned it on and before it got to full speed it flew off and hit me square in the nose, I guess I'm lucky it was rounded off so no sharp pointy bits, luckily nothing is broken but oh boy was there a lot of blood, it's a bit sore and some may say it's made some improvements but it really does show how it only takes a split second for things to go wrong.
> View attachment 150604
> View attachment 150605


Holy rubbish. I do see a first aid kit in the picture above your right shoulder. you are damn lucky. Where was your head gear!


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## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> Holy rubbish. I do see a first aid kit in the picture above your right shoulder. you are damn lucky. Where was your head gear!


I stupidly had taken it off while I changed the belt speed then turned it on, the piece came off before I could turn round to get my gear, I'm just lucky the piece of sycamore is so spalted and dry that there was no real weight to it, had it been a piece of solid oak it either wouldn't have come off the lathe (was mounted between centres) or if it had then I would easily be in hospital now.


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## MorrisWoodman12

Strewth @Stigmorgan . Glad you're OK. Reminds me of something that happened to me in my youth. I had a Citroen DS. Gearbox was bust (another story). The input shaft was a different size on the secondhand GBx I had bought so I was stripping downmy original GBx. I couldn't pull the bearing from the front of the shaft so, having removed the cage, was grinding into the inner race to remove the balls. I'd finished so turned the Black and Decker grinder off, bent down to put the box on the floor. I heard a rattling above me then a clunk at the far end of the garage then more rattling there. I stood up too find the nut had come loose on the grinder letting the stone come off and fly across the garage above my head. Still hate to think what a spinning grindstone would have done to me had i remained standing


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## Lefley

Stigmorgan said:


> I stupidly had taken it off while I changed the belt speed then turned it on, the piece came off before I could turn round to get my gear, I'm just lucky the piece of sycamore is so spalted and dry that there was no real weight to it, had it been a piece of solid oak it either wouldn't have come off the lathe (was mounted between centres) or if it had then I would easily be in hospital now.


you are really lucky! buy a lottery ticket today. my math could be wrong but the outside of a 9 inch bowl going 2000 rpm is doing about 42 km an hour.


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## Shan

Stigmorgan said:


> Well ladies and gents today I made...... a mess of my face. Came out to the maker space, checked the workpiece was secure between centres and started it up, was running at low gear so 450rpm and I wasn't a cut so change it to 3rd 2000rpm, turned it on and before it got to full speed it flew off and hit me square in the nose, I guess I'm lucky it was rounded off so no sharp pointy bits, luckily nothing is broken but oh boy was there a lot of blood, it's a bit sore and some may say it's made some improvements but it really does show how it only takes a split second for things to go wrong.
> View attachment 150604
> View attachment 150605


Pleased to hear that you came out ok if a little bruised! I've recently got myself a full face visor and certainly does make me feel a bit more protected rather than the goggles that I've been using. Take it easy out there Comrade!


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## Stigmorgan

Lefley said:


> you are really lucky! buy a lottery ticket today. my math could be wrong but the outside of a 9 inch bowl going 2000 rpm is doing about 42 km an hour.


Very lucky, not much point of pondering the "what if's " but had it been a piece of solid oak instead then either it would not have come off the lathe or I would currently be undergoing reconstruction surgery to my face, a sobering thought to be sure. Use you're PPE guys you never know when you will need it until it's too late.


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## Orraloon

That would hurt. Its a good reminder for the rest of us to avoid being complacent at the lathe. I think we all know what we should do its just at times we dont always do it. 
Regards
John


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## J-G

Strange how ideas evolve! - For the two boxes I've made recently I used the same Catch (a close up photo is on the early December post) but I had to add a [Pop Up] pin so that when the catch was released the box lid did 'pop up'. Whilst the arrangement works, it occured to me that I could combine the two elements into one and the 'action would be much more efficient. The separate element relied upon a 2mm Ø hole drilled in wood into which a spring & a brass pin were held in by a 4mm Ø Ebony plug CA Glued in.

Today I made a prototype of the combined catch :






It's difficult to appreciate the scale but the main body is 12x12x5mm, the 'Pop-Up' pin is 1.5mm Ø and the spring 3mm Ø.


The images below show the components exploded - I've added a 5p coin to give a better sense of scale but that only appears in the second.













The Pop-up spring is 1.5mm Ø and sits in a 1.6mm Ø hole drilled 2mm into the M3 x 5mm Grub Screw.

I don't yet have a box to make but this will most likely be fitted to the next one I do.

[EDIT]
Overnight I thought on the potential problem that the actuating rod might 'wander' - my normal rod is 1mm Ø and in previous versions of this catch I was able to drill a 1.2mm hole in one side and a 3mm hole in the other for the spring.
With the combined unit I had to drill the 3mm Ø spring dimple from the actuating side, which means that there is a 3mm hole for the 1mm rod to wander about in. You can see it quite easily in the first image.

This morning I machined a 3mmØ x 1.5mm 'plug' with a 1.2mmØ hole which I glued (CA) into the 3mm hole. After 5 minutes I was able to re-machine and re-polish the dovetailed side.




The 'plug' becomes visible purely due to the various stresses incurred.

This time I did remember to add the 5p coin for scale comparison


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## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> Very lucky, not much point of pondering the "what if's " but had it been a piece of solid oak instead then either it would not have come off the lathe or I would currently be undergoing reconstruction surgery to my face, a sobering thought to be sure. Use you're PPE guys you never know when you will need it until it's too late.


Perhaps standing to the left/right of the workpiece might help? 

As I was often told with model aircraft never stand to side of the prop. Always in front or behind.


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## Phil Pascoe

Counterbore the centres.


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## Phil Pascoe

Jameshow said:


> Perhaps standing to the left/right of the workpiece might help?
> 
> As I was often told with model aircraft never stand to side of the prop. Always in front it behind.


Behind a beehive, in front of a horse and by the side of a bull.


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## Jameshow

Phil Pascoe said:


> Behind a beehive, in front of a horse and by the side of a bull.


During my early days as a junior beekeeper with my dad, got stung and ran accris the felt tripping on a stone if something and land headlong into some nettles. Crazily I still went back for more!!


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## clogs

when my two lathes come outta storage they will be retro fitted with foot switches...

Manufacturers only put switches in the cheapest "STUPID" places......


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## minotauruk

Getting a log burner installed so made a log store


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## robgul

Inspired by @petermillard and his recent Mondrian table I spent a wet and miserable day in the workshop creating a some "pallet wall art" for our garden (the door is faux)

Pallet timber planed and thicknessed, strips cut, all stained/painted and glued/pinned to an oddment of OSB.


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## NickVanBeest

Finally had a chance to start on the new workshop... Quick and simple bench (while my actual workbench is still in storage), 2 x 4 on the wall to get all the clamps out of the way, and access to the back wall so I can start making shelves


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## Flynnwood

Jameshow said:


> During my early days as a junior beekeeper with my dad, got stung and ran accris the felt tripping on a stone if something and land headlong into some nettles. Crazily I still went back for more!!


@Jameshow In case you are interested (and don't know her), _ERIKA THOMPSON _aka @texasbeeworks on YT has some really excellent videos.

She just did an appearance on YT Joe Rogan 8th December.


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## doctor Bob

Wife wanted the dining room tidied up, managed to squeeze this into my schedule before Christmas.
Internals are oak veneers, oak worktops, still needs hand painting at some point.


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## Jameshow

We built a men's shed! 

Shipley, west Yorkshire! 

Pm if interested in joining us! 

Cheers James


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## Phil Pascoe

Bring it to W. Cornwall and I'm in.


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## Jameshow

Phil Pascoe said:


> Bring it to W. Cornwall and I'm in.


Holdsworthy to far?? 

I need to touch base with them, next time I'm down!


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## benitod

peterw3035 said:


> Three home made oval shaker boxes successfully gifted to my three favourite girls for Christmas. The product of some new woodworking skills learned from a master craftsman earlier in the year. The most tactile and appreciated gifts I've made to date View attachment 150163
> 
> View attachment 150165


Hi, Peter.
Did you use a template/jig to make those nice boxes?


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## Thingybob

Phil Pascoe said:


> Bring it to W. Cornwall and I'm in.


Or Teigmouth


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## Lefley

Jameshow said:


> View attachment 150665
> 
> 
> We built a men's shed!
> 
> Shipley, west Yorkshire!
> 
> Pm if interested in joining us!
> 
> Cheers James


This might be a really dumb question but bear with me I'm from Canada. What is a man's shed. Is it a workshop that people bring their own tools to and share with other people that bring tools. Or is it a place that the local qovernment sets up and membership charged to use. Or is it totally private and you get insurance etc so anyone can use. So many questions. This could be awesome for retired people to build stuff.


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## Lefley

Okay did a little digging. It seems men's sheds been in Canada for 10 years. seemingly a new idea here, obviously from England or Europe, but still don't understand how you set them up there and who owns them. This could be a very good idea in my area. I don't know if there is even an other woodturner in my area!


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## Phil Pascoe

I believe they originated in Australia.


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## imageel

I do volunteer work for an Essex based charity and one thing I offered them was workshop time with a mixture of hand tools and supervised machine tools, however the charity weren't interested because my workshop is on private land - i.e. my back garden!
A quick google and I found this -https://menssheds.org.uk/ - boy they are just like the charity - sticklers for rules, endless officialdom and everything decided by committee's run by mainly paper-pushers!
I said to the guy who approached me, I'd be happy to provide training/instruction at their chosen 'shed' and that was over a year ago and its been all very quiet since...
I must admit I know on multiple occasions they have been sizing me up for a full time position however tbh they would drive me nuts with their procrastination and their total detachment from the real-world.
In my former IT career I used to be a systems troubleshooter in investment banking and usually reporting into directors and the like, where calling a spade a spade and not glossing over technical foul-ups but offering pragmatic workarounds to save the bank being fined e.g. by the regulators for some misdemeanour, my input was generally well received even if on occasions I was delivering news they didn't want to hear..
AFAIKT the charity I volunteer with are not exceptional in this regard, it just seems to go with the territory!


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## MikeJhn

It took me eight weeks to demolish the old shower and put in the new one, Oh and OH wanted the Toilet moved, so re-plum the soil outlet.


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## robgul

I (being retired) looked at joining a Mens Shed but the emphasis on chatting and drinking tea didn't really appeal! - the woodwork (making bird boxes) was a bit basic.

That said, the concept is great for men that are perhaps lonely, at a loose end etc to meet with potentially like-minded blokes and share a hobby.


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## Jameshow

robgul said:


> I (being retired) looked at joining a Mens Shed but the emphasis on chatting and drinking tea didn't really appeal! - the woodwork (making bird boxes) was a bit basic.
> 
> That said, the concept is great for men that are perhaps lonely, at a loose end etc to meet with potentially like-minded blokes and share a hobby.


Never made a birdbox not on my watch! 

We had this guy come up from the south clever guy engineer etc his shed made bird boxes, hedgehog boxes etc. I thought how boring

We don't tend to make repetitive stuff as I must have ADHD! - Santa sleigh now the workshop, oak bench in Baildon! Toolboxes at Bradford group!


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## Tris

Don't know if our local men's shed is the same one Rob is referring to (North Cotswolds I think) but they put out a lot ot bird boxes and the like at the local GPs surgery, never seem to sell though


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## robgul

Tris said:


> Don't know if our local men's shed is the same one Rob is referring to (North Cotswolds I think) but they put out a lot ot bird boxes and the like at the local GPs surgery, never seem to sell though


No - not that one, but not too distant.


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## Hallelujahal

A very small elephant or an enormous pen turned today


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## scockram

A quick and dirty little job this afternoon - a toy vegetable peeler for my 3 1/2 year old son. Turned from sycamore with piano wire for the blade.


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## nickds1

robgul said:


> Inspired by @petermillard and his recent Mondrian table I spent a wet and miserable day in the workshop creating a some "pallet wall art" for our garden (the door is faux)
> 
> Pallet timber planed and thicknessed, strips cut, all stained/painted and glued/pinned to an oddment of OSB.


Went to the Mondrian exhibition at the Tate Margate a while ago. Fascinating to see so many so close up, but they really haven't aged well at all. Some are very fragile with lots of paint flaking etc.


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## peterw3035

benitod said:


> Hi, Peter.
> Did you use a template/jig to make those nice boxes?


The boxes are bend around an oval core then a oval shaper is pushed in top & bottom to hold the shape while they dry. All the information you will ever need can be found here, on John Wilson's website
Home | Shaker Oval Box


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## robgul

nickds1 said:


> Went to the Mondrian exhibition at the Tate Margate a while ago. Fascinating to see so many so close up, but they really haven't aged well at all. Some are very fragile with lots of paint flaking etc.


Mine has 3 coats of yacht varnish so hopefully it'll withstand the weather


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## MikeJhn

Don't think you are supposed to Yacht varnish or leave works of are out in the weather.


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## furnace

doctor Bob said:


> Wife wanted the dining room tidied up, managed to squeeze this into my schedule before Christmas.
> Internals are oak veneers, oak worktops, still needs hand painting at some point.


Looks like your're a good squeeze


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## Fitzroy

furnace said:


> Looks like your're a good squeeze


Many of us have tried to find out what it takes to make DrBob our squeeze but to no avail.


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## Teepeg

Made using pallet wood .. My 1st attempt, a few mistakes along the way, hopefully my next one will come out as planned ..


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## powertools

Teepeg I like that can you explain how you printed the face please.


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## Teepeg

powertools said:


> Teepeg I like that can you explain how you printed the face please.


Laser engraved Mate ..


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## Yojevol

Teepeg said:


> Made using pallet wood .. My 1st attempt, a few mistakes along the way, hopefully my next one will come out as planned ..


What was planned then? Anything to do with the apostrophe? 
Brian


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## Teepeg

Router issues around the edges ..


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## Stigmorgan

So today I got back into the maker space after Fridays entertainment and decided to start on a project I set myself, our godson and his partner are getting married so I thought I would make a pair of the Victorian figures I made for the school fair but bigger, today I got the female form done, I'm happy enough with her, my only negative is the head, I think it should have been taller and taper down to the neck as it looks squat and round.
Made from Ash with a little bit of spalting, stands about 9 inches tall and finished with linseed oil, will add a couple more coats over the week.


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## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> So today I got back into the maker space after Fridays entertainment and decided to start on a project I set myself, our godson and his partner are getting married so I thought I would make a pair of the Victorian figures I made for the school fair but bigger, today I got the female form done, I'm happy enough with her, my only negative is the head, I think it should have been taller and taper down to the neck as it looks squat and round.
> Made from Ash with a little bit of spalting, stands about 9 inches tall and finished with linseed oil, will add a couple more coats over the week.
> View attachment 150873
> View attachment 150874
> View attachment 150875
> View attachment 150876
> View attachment 150877


Great your back to it after Fridays assault!


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## Thingybob

Hey Stig don't know if you see the Lidl weekly but the young lady is going to have a bump holding the tool like that , Bad example being shown there


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## Stigmorgan

@Jameshow I can't believe how lucky I am, barely a scratch on me and no real bruising, my nose is a little sore and I've had a slight headache since but we went to the hospital on Sunday and got a scan to be safe and they say there's no visible damage so take ibuprofen and go easy for a few days.

@Thingybob I've seen that one, I'll have to have a search


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## Jameshow

Stigmorgan said:


> @Jameshow I can't believe how lucky I am, barely a scratch on me and no real bruising, my nose is a little sore and I've had a slight headache since but we went to the hospital on Sunday and got a scan to be safe and they say there's no visible damage so take ibuprofen and go easy for a few days.
> 
> @Thingybob I've seen that one, I'll have to have a search


I know how you feel fell off a ladder on Saturday only a small fall bruise and scrape to forearm rip to old jacket - dodged a bullet! 
Glad it was me and not a volunteer.


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## Stigmorgan

Jameshow said:


> I know how you feel fell off a ladder on Saturday only a small fall bruise and scrape to forearm rip to old jacket - dodged a bullet!
> Glad it was me and not a volunteer.


I hate ladders, don't mind heights but ladders are dangerous.


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## Hallelujahal

First attempt at a Celtic knot inlay today.


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## stenik

Stigmorgan said:


> So today I got back into the maker space after Fridays entertainment and decided to start on a project I set myself, our godson and his partner are getting married so I thought I would make a pair of the Victorian figures I made for the school fair but bigger, today I got the female form done, I'm happy enough with her, my only negative is the head, I think it should have been taller and taper down to the neck as it looks squat and round.
> Made from Ash with a little bit of spalting, stands about 9 inches tall and finished with linseed oil, will add a couple more coats over the week.
> View attachment 150873
> View attachment 150874
> View attachment 150875
> View attachment 150876
> View attachment 150877



Back on the horse after the fall as the saying goes. Looking good and hope your not to sore


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## Stigmorgan

stenik said:


> Back on the horse after the fall as the saying goes. Looking good and hope your not to sore


Sore to touch but apart from that I'm good thanks


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## Stigmorgan

Back out to give yesterday's fair lady a male friend, surprised myself with how quick I did this one, log to oiled in a little over 2 hours with constant stops to check measurements on my sketches, here he is....


















And here's a shot of them both together, cut from one log, both stand about 9inches tall, would maybe look better off the male was a little taller but overall I'm really happy with them and I think our godson and partner will love them.


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