# Circular saw to cut brass tube



## Geoff_S (24 Jan 2018)

I have just posted this under another forum section then saw this forum section, so .....

I have got to cut up lengths of 1/2" hollow brass tube. A lot of them!

I am trying to find a 184mm diameter - 16mm bore circular saw blade but I am Googled out.

I have found a Trend one that cuts alloy, but that is as close as I can get.

Has anyone got any advice please?


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## julianf (24 Jan 2018)

How accurately do you need to cut them?

If some degree of error is acceptable, then a £20 aldi / lidl angle grinder with some thin cutting discs would do you well.

I would think that you may have an issue with deformation if you use any saw blade that has too low a tpi count - the blade may catch, and bend the tube if the wall thickness isnt great.

I would certainly look at abrasive discs rather than circular saw blades. I suspect the trend alloy one will be -ve rake, but, still, id go for an abrasive disc.

(my day job is non-ferrous)


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## julianf (24 Jan 2018)

If you need them all accurate, and quick, i would suggest maybe rough cutting them with a plasma disc on a grinder, and then making up some sort of supporting tube, into which you can drop them, with a steel flange at the top.

Drop the slighly oversize tube into the hole, so as the end protrudes, and then file, or sand (say a flap disc on grinder) the end of the brass tube flush.

The steel flange will ware down over time, but brass is so much softer that you will get pretty good repeatability.


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## AndyT (24 Jan 2018)

Have you asked whoever you are buying the tube from? Cutting to length is a basic service for any decent stockholder. Why struggle!


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## MusicMan (24 Jan 2018)

Read up how to cut tube on a circular saw/chop saw, anyway. It can be quite hazardous as the saw easily grabs the tube, spins it and churns it out ruined! If you can get it cut to length as Andy says, go for it.


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## Lons (24 Jan 2018)

I have at times used my DeWalt 12" chopsaw to cut alloy, brass and 25mm square steel tube using an old tungsten tipped 64 tooth negative rake blade but it's not something to be undertaken lightly.

The tube has to be tightly clamped or it will move enough to be downright dangerous and although I managed reasonable accuracy the tubes needed a fair bit of cleaning up.
As suggested, a thin cutting disk is a better option or order it in cut to size and save the trouble.

Bob


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## kevinlightfoot (25 Jan 2018)

Could you use a plumbers pipe cutter,or do you need to cut too many?


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## Geoff_S (25 Jan 2018)

As I said, I posted this under another heading, but thanks for all the replies here as well.

What is clear is that this route is a risky one, so I am going to either buy or hire a dedicated metal chop off saw.

There's a Sealey for £70 or hire one for the day at £30.

And I get to keep my fingers!

Thanks again for the heads up and advice.


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## Geoff_S (25 Jan 2018)

kevinlightfoot":2967wb0l said:


> Could you use a plumbers pipe cutter,or do you need to cut too many?



There's an idea! Yes, I will try that before going down the dedicated metal off cut saw. 

I don't know how soft the brass tube is going to be, but it's certainly worth a try.

Thanks


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## Geoff_S (25 Jan 2018)

AndyT":3konzwhx said:


> Have you asked whoever you are buying the tube from? Cutting to length is a basic service for any decent stockholder. Why struggle!



I didn't think of that. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll remember that for next time.


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## Lons (25 Jan 2018)

Geoff_S":2151u2b2 said:


> kevinlightfoot":2151u2b2 said:
> 
> 
> > Could you use a plumbers pipe cutter,or do you need to cut too many?
> ...



Probably too hard Geoff, depends on the wall thickness but even if it does cut it will possibly compress the ends of the cut as it does with copper.


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## John Brown (25 Jan 2018)

I've cut steel tubing from bakery type shelving uprights with a pipe cutter. It took a while, and the cutter might not be as sharp as it was, but it worked fine.


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## Sheffield Tony (25 Jan 2018)

I use a plumbing pipe cutter to cut short lengths of brass tube for ferrules for chisels and screwdrivers etc. It is slower than cutting copper, and the tool probably won't stay sharp as long. It does slightly deform the cut end, but not so much so as with copper. It all rather depends on the wall thickness of the tube, and how many cuts you need to make.


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## MusicMan (25 Jan 2018)

Even with a dedicated metal chop saw (I have the Evolution), though the cutting is fine, the work holding is still to be addressed seriously. The supplied clamp may not be adequate, DAMHIK! Make a dedicated holding jig.


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## Mark A (25 Jan 2018)

Screwfix used to sell Erbauer 184mm multi-purpose saw blades, much like the more expensive Evolution varieties.

I tried one, then bought another two for spare when they were on sale a couple of years ago. I'm just on my second blade now, though the first has cut all manner of things - 50mm box section (3mm wall thickness), 5mm steel plate, 10mm aluminium plate, angle iron, gnarly wood embedded with nails and bolts, pallets, copper pipe, plastics. Bloody brilliant blades!

It was only later I noticed my saw exceeds the max. RPM of the blade. That doesn't mean I won't stop using them; I now take extra precautions so if a carbide tooth is ejected I shouldn't lose an eye. 

The surface finish on steel is good, but copper pipe (albeit cut with a well worn blade) did need some filing. 



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## Phil Pascoe (25 Jan 2018)

Something like - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-5019 ... der+stands (not necessarily the best or cheapest) and a thin metal disc.


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## julianf (25 Jan 2018)

phil.p":3nk68i63 said:


> Something like - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-5019 ... der+stands (not necessarily the best or cheapest) and a thin metal disc.



I think that is one of the best solutions. Or a full size chop saw with an abrasive disc.

Again, id really try and keep away from blades. -ve rake ones are better, but they will still be a whole load more scary than just using an abrasive cutter.


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## julianf (25 Jan 2018)

...i almost suggested a plumbers pipe cutter before, and then i remembered reading that he said he had a lot to do.

Doing a whole bunch of brass tubes with a plumbers cutter will take so very very long.


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## Geoff_S (25 Jan 2018)

phil.p":qnb2fabz said:


> Something like - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-5019 ... der+stands (not necessarily the best or cheapest) and a thin metal disc.



That will do it, brilliant


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## Phil Pascoe (25 Jan 2018)

I've got the cheap Lidl or Aldi one - about £12 - and it's fine for what I use it for. That one doesn't look any different. You'd just need to rig up a length stop so you can slide the pipe along, cut, slide, cut, and so on. I've cut 30mm bms bar no problem.


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## AES (25 Jan 2018)

A bit late, sorry, but:

+1 for getting it cut off to length
+ another for an abrasive cut off disc
and + another for a plumbers copper tube cutter (if you've not got too many to do - you don't say how much is "a lot")! At least the tube cutter will only "distort" the end of the cut evenly all round (how much depends on the brass hardness and wall thickness, but the "in-turned bell end" that comes from a tube cutter is quite useful sometimes, not to say attractive).

Also agree 100% that if using any type of saw, and an abrasive disc come to that, the "key" is clamping sufficiently rigidly that it doesn't rotate while being cut but at the same time doesn't crush/distort the brass. Coarse emery cloth temporarily glued to the vice jaws may help.

HTH

AES


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## Stoorice (25 Jan 2018)

They're not the cheapest but I do a lot of Swagelok pipe bending at work and their cutter is easily the best on the market. I've been using mine to cut stainless for the last 5 years and its still on its original blade.
they also sell a deburring tool which puts a nice chamfer on the inside and outside of the tube after a cut.


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## TFrench (25 Jan 2018)

AES":tewquz2j said:


> the "in-turned bell end" is quite useful sometimes, not to say attractive.



:shock: 

:lol:


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