# Lacquer Finish on Pine?



## Chems (17 Jan 2009)

I have very limited experience with finishing and usually just use a clear wax and apply that with a cloth. I've had good results on pine with Ronseals Wax but I want to go a step further and apply a lacquer finish. I have some Ducal pine furniture in my house and this has a silk smooth finish that I can only assume is a lacquer finish. 

Could someone advise me as to what I should use to apply lacquer without a spray system to a large wardrope?


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## mailee (18 Jan 2009)

Well Chems, if you want to apply clear finish without the use of a spray gun here is my method. I use Ronseal acrylic varnish which is water based. After sanding the project to 320 grit I apply a couple of coats of celulose sanding sealer with a cloth and a 50/50 mix of thinner and sealer. When this is dry which is only a few minutes I lightly sand it with some 400 grit. Now a coat of acrylic varnish is brushed on with a good quality brush, hammer it on and then lay it off lightly with the grain. After about two hours it will be dry enough to de nib it with some 600 grit and give it another coat. Repeat this a few times as it will vary with the type of wood used. On Pine it takes me around four or five coats. Allow the final coat to dry for a couple of days and then give it a good sanding with 800/1000 wet N dry used wet. After this a light rub over with some 000 wire wool and you have a very flat high sheen finish which can be given a light wax if needed. It is a lot of work but worth the effort. HTH. :wink:


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## Chems (18 Jan 2009)




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## mailee (19 Jan 2009)

Hi Chems, No definitely not! you can't put any varnish type of finish over wax. In place of the cellulose sanding sealer you could always use a spirit based one or a shallac based one but nothing wax based as the top coats won't bind :wink: to it I am afraid. You can however put a wax finish over the top of any of the varnish type of finishes. Of course if the varnish is one of the coloured ones it will remove some of the colour each time you sand or de-nib the finish. If you put enough coats of clear over the top you can sand back on this for the smooth finish being careful not to cut through it though. HTH.


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## Chems (19 Jan 2009)

Oh thats a tough one then. What can I do to get that colour but a more durable surface finish?


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## mailee (20 Jan 2009)

Only thing I can suggest is to colour the timber with a wipe on stain and then build up the laquer to give the sheen you require. Make sure you sanding seal the timber before applying the stian though otherwise it will blotch like hell. (I know from experience with Pine) I have also used a coloured varnish before but then applied a few coats of clear varnish over this after a light de-nibbing so as not to disturb the colour of the first coloured varnish. Personally I would have a go on a scrap piece to see what the best method would be.


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## Chems (20 Jan 2009)

Thanks Maliee, its the cost of testing that always puts me off, buy a tin, try it out and its no good an thats £10 down the drain. I doubt I will get an exact colour match with the desk now? I suppose worst case I could take the wax off the desk and re-stain that.


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## Derek Willis. (20 Jan 2009)

Use a spirit wood dye first, then Rustins Plastic Coating to finish, diluted.
Derek.


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