# Is this worthy of a Gloat



## andys wood shed (4 Mar 2007)

Is this worthy of a gloat

Just been given these by a neighbour  
(probably for payment for all the odd jobs I've done over the years)

What do you think







A Stanley no. 50 combination plane






A Stanley 13-052 plough plane






A Woden W.78 rabbet and fillister plane






and this a "ROOFIT BEVEL" made by William Lanham
for cutting roof joists

is this for full size roofs or models like dolls houses


Regards

Andy


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## MikeW (4 Mar 2007)

andys wood shed":3nb1mvz0 said:


> Is this worthy of a gloat
> 
> Just been given these by a neighbour
> (probably for payment for all the odd jobs I've done over the years)
> ...


Well, Andy. Just what do you think I am thinking right this minute? Yep, you suck!

Very nice neighbor you have there. Good planes and bevel [which I have never seen before], but especially the 50 and the Wooden 78.

Take care, Mike


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## Paul Chapman (4 Mar 2007)

The Woden W78 is good, Andy, because, unlike the equivalent Stanley, it has double fence rods.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Alf (4 Mar 2007)

First Martin and now this - today really, really sucks... ](*,) :lol: (Yeah,it's a gloat) D'you have all the bits? And more importantly d'you have a scanner...? The 13-052 and Woden manuals would be welcome. [-o< 

Incidentally has anyone ever seen a Stanley #50 manual that _doesn't_ have a rust mark right across it? :roll: 

Cheers, Alf


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## houtslager (4 Mar 2007)

> Well, Andy. Just what do you think I am thinking right this minute? Yep, you suck!



seconded 

Lucky pipper !


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## TonyW (4 Mar 2007)

andys wood shed":1bqguxpw said:


> Is this worthy of a gloat



Oh yes - Gloat away!

Tony


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## Waka (4 Mar 2007)

Andy

It's people like you that really P*** me off :lol: , although I have to say, fantastic gloat, just wish I could get paid like that.


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## mahking51 (4 Mar 2007)

Hmmmmmm, seems like there is a new contender on the block........ :roll: 
Martin


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## andys wood shed (4 Mar 2007)

Thank guys 8) 

The Woden has seen some action but the two Stanley planes are as new and the blades still have the manufactures grinding marks so don't think they have ever seen an oil stone



Alf":df12vkfy said:


> D'you have all the bits? And more importantly d'you have a scanner...? The 13-052 and Woden manuals would be welcome. [-o<



Alf 
Yes I've got all the bits and I do have a scanner, but how to use it might be a problem  might have to phone a friend
How do you want me to send them

Regards

Andy


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## Adam (4 Mar 2007)

Alf":30j2rwma said:


> FIncidentally has anyone ever seen a Stanley #50 manual that _doesn't_ have a rust mark right across it? :roll: Cheers, Alf



I've got one :wink: :lol: 

Adam


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## Alf (4 Mar 2007)

This is the third time I've tried posting this, so it's going to be short and sweet.

Adam - I forgot I live in a god-forsaken puddle.

Andy - scanned at 600dpi in colour attached to an email would be ideal, ta very muchly. Email address on my site, link below.

Cheers, Alf


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## Adam (4 Mar 2007)

Alf":z0vl8hrh said:


> Adam - I forgot I live in a god-forsaken puddle.



Dunno, I seem to have a lake at the bottom of the garden. Good job I built a nice big plinth for the workshop, nice and dry!

Adam


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## Keefaz (4 Mar 2007)

I think I have a 13-052 manual if Andy has any problems. I must admit, it's not exactly one of my favourite planes...


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## andys wood shed (9 Mar 2007)

Alf":gnqilc2f said:


> First Martin and now this - today really, really sucks... ](*,) :lol: (Yeah,it's a gloat) D'you have all the bits? And more importantly d'you have a scanner...? The 13-052 and Woden manuals would be welcome. [-o<
> 
> Cheers, Alf



Manuals sent hope they are ok

Andy


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## Alf (9 Mar 2007)

Yes thankee, Andy. \/ \/ \/ I've just emailed to let you know. 

Cheers, Alf


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## andys wood shed (9 Mar 2007)

How do I sharpen the beading cutters for the no. 50 plane :? 

Regards

Andy


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## engineer one (9 Mar 2007)

congrats andy, wot i was told ages ago was to flatten the backs, and
then use round stones to go for the radii.

paul :wink:


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## Paul Chapman (9 Mar 2007)

andys wood shed":2f39fk95 said:


> How do I sharpen the beading cutters for the no. 50 plane :?



Hi Andy,

I've had some success using MDF wheels and polishing compound to hone the curved bit of the beading cutters. The flat parts I hone as normal. I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow if that will help.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul

PS Keep to one bevel - if you try to hone a secondary bevel on the curved bit of the cutter it will get quite complicated.


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## engineer one (9 Mar 2007)

also you can wind wet and dry around various sized dowels and use them at the correct angle. :roll: 

paul :wink:


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## Shultzy (9 Mar 2007)

andys wood shed, and I thought my neighbour was generous, well done.


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## Frank D. (9 Mar 2007)

For the beading cutters I use a round file (like a small chainsaw file or similar), then I hone more or less a secondary bevel with an oil slipstone, and I polish off with hard maple and Flexcut honing compound (cuts a lot faster than the LV green stuff). I sharpen the flat part of the profile on oilstones then sinish off with a few strokes on leather and compound. It really depends on what you (don't) have, almost anything from sandpaper to files will do the job.
Nice score BTW. Your neighbor is very generous, It's surprising what some people will give you when they find out you actually care about and use hand tools. I had a neighbor give me a brace and a set of auger bits that belonged to his grandfather. I was quite touched.


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## andys wood shed (10 Mar 2007)

Thanks Guys for the advice going to have a go tomorrow

Paul, thank you for the kind offer would very much appreciate some photos  

Andy


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## Paul Chapman (10 Mar 2007)

andys wood shed":1b11myx5 said:


> Paul, thank you for the kind offer would very much appreciate some photos



Sorry Andy, didn't get it done today (been a bit busy making something for the Mother-in-Law :roll: ). Will post some tomorrow.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Paul Chapman (11 Mar 2007)

andys wood shed":3ka3mo3c said:


> Paul, thank you for the kind offer would very much appreciate some photos



Hi Andy, 

Here are some photos as promised.

I use a bi-metalic cutter to cut out the MDF wheels, because I happened to have some, but you could use a router with a small circle-cutting jig







I open up the centre hole and mount the wheel on an arbour 






I mount this in an old electric drill and shape the wheel using a coarse rasp and with the drill running. I find that this doesn't take long and it's quite easy to achieve an appropriate shape. I then put polishing compound on the wheel and hone the shaped part of the bevel freehand






I hone with the drill running at a slow speed and running away from me so that the blade doesn't dig into the wheel.

The polishing compound comes in blocks of different colours denoting the coarseness of the compound. Black is the most coarse and maroon the finest, known as jewellers rouge. So far I have used the black compound on the wheels and found that that will quickly remove grinding marks and leave a mirror-like finish.






I hone the flat parts of the blades on my diamond stones as normal and finish off with jewellers rouge on a leather strop






I've tried other things like slip stones and abrasive paper wrapped around dowelling, but so far I've found I get the best results with MDF wheels.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## andys wood shed (11 Mar 2007)

Paul,

Thank you for taking the time in showing me, and others I'm sure, your method.

I can't think of any questions as your photos and description explain it fully  
I will give it a go and let you know how I get on.

Much appreciated

Andy


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## Frank D. (11 Mar 2007)

Very handy for all kinds of applications! Thanks Paul for the pics.


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## Alf (11 Mar 2007)

Probably an egg-sucking education, but make sure the wheel's turning _away_ from the edge...


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## andys wood shed (11 Mar 2007)

Paul Chapman":2kun1ban said:


> I hone with the drill running at a slow speed and running away from me so that the blade doesn't dig into the wheel.



Alf,
I thought your read every post according to what you have just said in another topic 
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... 730#169730
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: 

Sorry could not resist :wink: 

Andy


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## mahking51 (11 Mar 2007)

Paul,
Great idea!
Where do you get the arbors from please?
Regards,
Martin


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## Paul Chapman (11 Mar 2007)

Hi Martin,

I think I got mine from Buck & Ryan in Guildford. I've thrown the packaging away but I think some were Wolfcraft and some were Black & Decker. They come in different diameters and lengths and are usually sold to fit felt and cloth wheels. If you want to make up thicker wheels using, say, 18mm MDF you will probably find they are not long enough. In these cases simply counter-bore the hole so that it's inset a bit. Most tool shops should have them.

Hope that helps.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## andys wood shed (11 Mar 2007)

How about using a full threaded coach bolt, two nuts to lock the mdf disc and hold in the drill chuck on the remaining threaded portion.

Andy


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## engineer one (11 Mar 2007)

nice quick and dirty idea andy and very sensible.

paul :wink:


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## Paul Chapman (11 Mar 2007)

Yes, that would probably work as you won't be putting much pressure on it when honing - you could also add two large washers.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Alf (12 Mar 2007)

Did, Andy, "did". And reading every post doesn't mean you read every _bit_ of every post. 8-[ :lol: Anyway I figure it's worth drawing attention to if it stops someone having a Nasty Moment.

The drawback to this method is that, while it's quick, it's also quick. i.e. You can potentially make yourself a heap of trouble that much faster too. So I'm kinda on the fence about it - I think beading cutters aren't necessarily the ideal place to start a honing wheel education so maybe try something a little easier to fix _first_? Just a suggestion of the DAMH... variety. :roll: 

Cheers, Alf


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