# Titch's Workshop/Brew Shed/Store - Build



## Titch (16 Feb 2015)

Day 1 on the job, decided needed to make a start on a project that has been years in thought.
plan is still like shifting sands
but currently approximately 26ft by 8ft'ish

Sundays plan was to dig some foundation trench's and throw in some blocks ot work out spacing etc
So we marked out a line with some string and got to work after checking it was square'ish
And we started to dig, and dig and dig
shift soil 
dig a bit more
shift soil
you get the idea.

SO pictures below are the results of a good solid days work with my 6yr old helper.
Some dad and son time ;-)




Helper shifting soil



Helper shifting more soil



Initial blocks to show line



Blocks showing the corner and end wall



Soil shifted so far, will be sued to backfill and create some nice flower beds once finished ( so i'm told )



blocks droped in at 600mm centres to check i had enough, plan to put some in the middle to support beams when i get that far

thats all for now.

A nice hot shower and a cheeky red were enjoyed afterwards


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## Titch (23 Feb 2015)

well another day on the plot
forgot pictures oops

so all the blocks int he above picture are now leveled and concreted in place.
all set at 600mm centers as measured by my helper.

However as i was setting them, it dawned on me i currently have the idea for my short joists heading front to back
but using less cuts the floorboards if i use T&G will be the same direction.

would this cause me any great problems?
i was planning 600mm centres with noggins between 1 to 2 per length alternately
or should i run some longer lengths with noggins front to back?


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## Woodchips2 (23 Feb 2015)

Hi Titch
Rule of thumb for depth of floor joists is span divided by 2 plus 2" so for 8'0" span use 6"x2".

If you were running the joists the long way you'd have to provide intermediate support otherwise you'd need 15"x2" joists.

Suggest stick with running them the short way and cutting T&G boards is not difficult with a sharp saw.

Regards Keith


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## blackrodd (23 Feb 2015)

As above, two rows of noggins will "box" up the joisting very well.
You didn't mention chipboard or timber T&G, If you use chipboard, then set the joisting carefully at 600 centres, and you shouldn't have too many problems.
Should you buy timber t&g, then buy lengths to suit 600 centres fixings too!
You may want to think about any proposed heavy machines or equipment now and "beef" up the relevant floor area inside, while it's easier.
Regards Rodders


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## Titch (23 Feb 2015)

apologies

currently
looking at T&G flooring

excuse this but my sketch is as follows





as the building is approx 2.4m wide i was just going to build the walls, then trim flooring a little to suit the internals
was thinking of maybe going for more noggins where needed

is this all ok ?


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## Titch (28 Feb 2015)

well today the first load of timber arrives
joists and framing
Selco seemed shocked at amount i've bought which confused me
but i want this thing to last

photos of delivery to follow now i wish the rain would pipper off

off to charge my drills ;-)


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## rdesign (28 Feb 2015)

for the small amount of extra cost put OSB boards down first then tongue and groove will prevent drafts and greatly strengthen floor and make the flooring easier to lay.

my two cents! 

regards richard


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## Titch (28 Feb 2015)

Finally turned up 1400hrs

Timber
20061890	Base	Joist	6x2	2.4m	16
20061905	Joist	6x2	4.2m	4
20061905 Noggins	6x2	4.2m	4

20062040	Walls	Wall Frame 3x2	2.4m	50
20062055 Header/Footer 3x2	4.2m	8

20062040	Roof	Roof Frame	3x2	3m	15
Noggins 4x2	4.2m	4

Ancillary	
425833929 Selco Deck Screws 1
334530801 Polythene BR85 2
253261302 Decking Edge Grain protector 1
172100001 tarpaulin 1
446510021 Thermalite Block 7.0N 100mm 10

After it arriving that late i got the DPC down ( i bought too much ) but having an extension soon so should be used up then.

Got about 5 joists in and a few noggins then the heavens opened, so a tarp on top of joists as they are and to try save SOME water retention on the DPC

so will be a lot of mop work i think tomorrow to move water ;(

OOH and with kids "helping" i cut up one of my 2.4 and 3m joist so will have to make some out of the 4.2m i bought for noggins to replace

hey no no issues just KIDS "helping"

i promise pics tomorrow


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## Titch (2 Mar 2015)

well the weather beat me into submission

couple of questions have arisen
i put a DPC underneath but even though i have covered it the rain has still found its way in and puddled up.
i presume primarily i need it on the block supports not actually all over, technically this is a weed suppression cover i suppose ?

so i can pierce the plastic to allow to drian ?
remove the center section of plastic, leaving the cover over the blocks and replace the center section with weed membrane ?

or do i actually NEED it ? seemed like a good idea at the time, but rain has annoyed me now.

i presume you gents would use furring's to enable some insulation to be placed between the joists ?

thanks


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## Titch (7 Mar 2015)

Another day opn the job, no rain was quite productive,
all the sides are done and noggins in

neatly stacked onto of each other prior to covering with some DPC to keep them dry.

Need to get the timbers for the doors and order the cladding
Final size is 8.3m by 2.5m

So onwards


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## blackrodd (7 Mar 2015)

As Crocodile Dundee would say " Now THATS a Workshop", A very useful size.
8.3m x 2.5m, or 27' x 8' in old money You'll get some toys in there!
Regards Rodders


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## Titch (7 Mar 2015)

Be sharing it but I'll get what I NEED. Brewing one end kids bike the other and tool in the middle ish


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## Titch (30 Mar 2015)

Sorry for lack of updates but kids parties etc

anyway i got a couple of nail guns cheap off ebay the other week, just ordered some 55mm coil nails.
660m of so of 22mm Loglap will be delivered Thursday
350m or so of 22mm floorboard for roof and floor aswell.
shingles to finish

Got this of a local builder via ebay last week
just over 6sqM per pack for £10 a pack, he said he had 234 but found another 3
so 27 packs 1220 x 455 x 65mm for £240 --- very happy
he also sent some foil backed paper, can i use this to wrap the building ?

i have this and some weed membrane i was going to use to sling the insulation between the joists under the floor ;-)

any thoughts welcome
still trying to work out the layers, i think its paper on frame with cladding ontop of that on the outside
fill void with insulation and cover ... can i use the DPC i have left over ?


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## Titch (31 Mar 2015)

Wood turned up 2 days early






680M 22 x 125 loglap
and
360m'ish 22 mm T&G

busy weekend for me then


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## blackrodd (31 Mar 2015)

Nice load of timber for the weekend, as you say, but at least you have the well equipped tractor and loader,
to help out, hired for a "small" fee, of course.
Regards Rodders


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## Titch (31 Mar 2015)

sons tractor if he will let me use it
just need to work out if the silver foil backed paper is ok for my layer between the cladding and frame

confusing stuff this building


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## blackrodd (31 Mar 2015)

I would have thought it perfectly situated inside the building, much the same as foil backed plasterboard or even the "spacesaver" roof insulation, I believe "shiny" side looking outwards to reflect the colder temperatures

Read the instructions or get a product leaflet , Does any of this resemble what you have?

https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid ... insulation

Regards Rodders


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## Titch (1 Apr 2015)

this is mine





looks like this stuff


http://www.novia.co.uk/products/vcl_ff1.html

or one i found on jewson site


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## Titch (2 Apr 2015)

Working out my cutting schedule now god harder than I think to minimise waste

92 lengths at 4.8m
44 lengths at 5.4m

Wish me luck


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## blackrodd (2 Apr 2015)

Titch":1sr2rfsr said:


> this is mine
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I would have thought that the sheet insulation from jolly old Jewsons, or even Wickes,
(their version of Celotex) that has the foil both sides would have been more beneficial in material cost and more effective being foil backed on both sides for starters.
I have used the foil backed rolls you have and it is quite delicate and the foil joint and repair tape is really expensive.Staple guns can be a menace and Arrow stuff, again is not cheap!
Plus I do like the double sided foil, working both ways.
None of this is needed with the much easier to use sheet material.
Regards Rodders


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## Titch (2 Apr 2015)

hi the insulation is fine in costs terms 
the foil roll in that picture is just the wrap didn't cost a lot for what is there, and any left over ill bung in my loft 

if i wrap the frame in this i presume i put the foil towards the inside facing the insulation.
then i could us it to hold the insulation in place before i board it out.

thanks for the advise.

I did look at celotex style insulation but starting to look silly cost wise


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## blackrodd (2 Apr 2015)

Download at tha page bottom, on the link you provided says fix on the warm side, towards you to tape up, if I read correctly.
http://www.novia.co.uk/overview/Vapour% ... erview.pdf

If in doubt get the sellers to get you a product leaflet.
Regards Rodders


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## Titch (3 Apr 2015)

welll looks like today could be a washout. answer me this why does it always rain on bank holidays ?

answer on a postcard


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## Titch (3 Apr 2015)

WEll today started miserable, then the rain eased off so we went for it
Dad me and the Wife
youngest child Son 6 yrs old

WE were off, but getting drizzled on




One side and back panel up
other end up




bracing at th eend of the day as weather beat us





Couple of rafters in





notice the extra pieces in the top, just to give a little extra run off, will be hidden by external and internal cladding ;-)

So not a bad day all in all

hope tomorrow is crackign flags so i can get on with cladding

still unsure wether to put the paper on before the cladding or not mmmmmmm


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## Titch (4 Apr 2015)

Todays progress

Both backwalls up just after lunch, helper given up collecting cut offs and climbing the tree








One end up before it was too dark





so looking good so far

had a comment of one of the neighbours, 

"Ohh didnt realise it was so big"

oops might of upset a 12yr friendship there...................
i did tell them i was going as big as i could

ooh well see how we go tomorrow

make them a planer out of off cuts ;-)


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## Titch (5 Apr 2015)

Afternoon break for lunch









had a slight crisis so lost an hour, the little side pieces were put on then when it came time to fit the piece that went across the top of the door frame it was 5mm out on the hozisontal.

pipper smashed them all out and recovered what i could then fit them from top to bottom to make sure it was level across the door.


Evening finished after cutting the final piece to fit at the top










All tools away and roof goes on tomorrow

now to work out the shingles


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## Titch (7 Apr 2015)

Finished last night at 2045 with final shingle in place
need to do the trim and gutter then i can turn my hand at the doors etc
floors and insulation

QU:
i have laid the rafters across the top of the structure and laid the boards over them, this has an air gap front to back.
Now if i stuff with insulation and cladd internally whats best for the air gap ?
insect screen or ?????

Also do i need to put some bracing in front to back ?
there will be one partition wall in there anyway but should i put a few extra in for good measure between the walls ?

final size is around 8.2 to 2.4

Neighbours seem ok


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## lmhart (13 Apr 2015)

Titch":18ypu4ag said:


> final size is around 8.2 to 2.4
> 
> Neighbours seem ok



That's a nice sized workshop! Let me know how the neighbours are after a few sessions of noisy tool wood butchery ;-)

I'm in the process of moving out of my garage into a shed I build a few years ago - hopefully my neighbours will be forgiving too)!

Cheers

Leigh


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## Woodmonkey (13 Apr 2015)

Looks like a nice build, wish the pictures weren't so small...


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## Titch (13 Apr 2015)

Click on the links should open up larger


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## Wizard9999 (13 Apr 2015)

Looking very nice there.

Hopefully the neighbour will stay sweet, as I fear they could make trouble for you if you are as close to the boundary as you look. You should be OK for planning as you look under 2.5m high, which is good if you are within 2m of the boundary, but anything over 15m2 within 1m of the boundary should have building regulation sign off and to secure that should be made of non-combustable material - as per Steve M's massive build thread where he has had to retrospectively deal with this to keep building control happy.

Maybe make a nice set of shelves for the neighbours when you are up and running :lol: .

Terry.


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## Titch (13 Apr 2015)

Yeah plan originally was two separate sheds with a deck between. But I closed it in.
Oops ooh well 
Height is under 2.5m.
Very close to boundary but final size is the one issue I have.
I went over the local plannign site and i said no to all questions asked on there.
If I get a visit I can removed an end wall and shuffle in. To get under 15m2.
Or
Paint with some fire proofing ?

All walls were insulated this weekend. 

There is only one neighbour I haven't spoken to yet at the back the others have commented favorably. 
I'm hoping cos i did a proper job they will all play nice.

Got the cladding for internal this weekend. 
I'm Wondering weather to chance it or change design or could call building control.


Mmmmm decisions .
Based on response so far and village I live in. Hopefully be ok.
Only issue is an extension to thew house planned this year on the house.
Means BCO will be on site, but they should deal with it as separate issue and still sign off my extension.
Depends if bco looks into the workshop whilst he's here .
Will use non council private firm, if they exist ? see if my builder can have a word ;-)


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## Wizard9999 (13 Apr 2015)

Titch":hb94kk1l said:


> Yeah plan originally was two separate sheds with a deck between. But I closed it in.
> Oops ooh well
> Height is under 2.5m.
> Very close to boundary but final size is the one issue I have.
> ...



I would suggest keeping the neighbour's sweet your head down. I don't think just a fireproof paint would cut it. Steve has been pulling timber cladding off the side of his workshop and although he does not seem to want to discuss in detail yet I suspect a specific fireproof cladding is going to be his answer. Steve did say it was a costly mistake, so I presume the fireproof material is not cheap.

No idea what may happen if the BCO come round for your extension, but I presume the rules have evolved over time so maybe just ensure it is well weathered by then and he may just assume it complied with the rules that were in force when it was built :wink: . Or, you mentioned a partition wall, how about putting two doors in and if he asks tell him it is two separate sheds built very, very close together :lol: .

Look forward to seeing finally pictures.

Terry.


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## Titch (26 Apr 2015)

right workshop is done bar electrics
all walls clad etc intenally
started to move stuff from garage had a sudden rain storm
noticed water on front wall inside
pipper....rain stopped went on the roof lifted shingles along the drip direction checked for water, and added some bitumen paint to seal

think i might need to stip the roof and put some extra membrane down.
man who sold me the stuff didnt say anything about membrane.

do i need it
these are bitumen shingles with a sticky bit

not looking forward to taking them off and getting them back in the same place


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