# Oak bar top finish



## HootsManuva (2 Feb 2015)

Hi,

I've got an (English) oak bar top that I've sanded back and stained with Rustins ebony wood dye. Last week my pet "Expert" and I finished the bar with multiple coats of Friction Polish. I noticed quickly that it wasn't up to the job, and after I did some research I found out that Friction Polish isn't up to withstanding alcohol (my "Expert" was unaware of this limitation to Friction Polish!), we then resanded and applied varnish.

Sadly it would seem that there was still some moisture in the wood (perhaps from the wood dye), and the varnish has that milky effect now. My next step is to sand back again, and re apply the wood dye as required and then refinish. I have also taken it upon myself to research what my options are regarding the finish (hence this post!). I loved the finish that the Friction Polish gave, and would like something similar. I was tempted after reading a few things to use Danish Oil due to its waterproof and alcohol resistant nature, but am slightly put off by the non gloss finish. The Friction Polish really brought out the differences in the grain, and lightened up the shades between the grain. It really did look lovely.... and now it does not!

Can I varnish over Friction Polish or Danish Oil? Is there a finish I can use that will give me a similar finish to Friction Polish but isn't scared off by alcohol? I don't mind having a reasonable amount of day to day care involved, but I also need to be able to sometimes just wipe it down at the end of the day and for it not to have adverse effects to the finish.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Rob


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## Mar_mite (3 Feb 2015)

You can build a shine with Danish oil. It's a matter of applying multiple coats, and buffing off any excess. Or you could try finishing oil, I think I'm right in saying it is easier to build a shine with that. As long as you don't let any excess dry onto the surface, Danish oil is foolproof. 
I wouldn't bother with polish at all.


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## bamboo (3 Feb 2015)

I don't think Oil will be up to the job sorry 
When we make bar tops we finish with Rustins Plastic coating its bullet proof M8


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## Phil Pascoe (3 Feb 2015)

Rustins Plastic doesn't last very long. I saw a counter last week that I did and the edges are already wearing through, and I only did it in 1988.


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## bamboo (3 Feb 2015)

phil.p":3mk34tnu said:


> Rustins Plastic doesn't last very long. I saw a counter last week that I did and the edges are already wearing through, and I only did it in 1988.




Lol


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## Woodmonkey (3 Feb 2015)

Osmo poly x oil


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## Phil Pascoe (3 Feb 2015)

I wonder. I've used it on fruit bowls and it doesn't last two minutes when something wet sits on it for any time.


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## sammy.se (4 Feb 2015)

would a layer of epoxy resin be overkill?
true, it will require some prep, skill and patience - that that really would be up to the job, wouldn't it?


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## sammy.se (4 Feb 2015)

would a layer of epoxy resin be overkill?
true, it will require some prep, skill and patience - that that really would be up to the job, wouldn't it?


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## Phil Pascoe (4 Feb 2015)

Two part polyurethane will work as well.


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## HootsManuva (4 Feb 2015)

Hi all,

Thank you all for your replies and advice. 

Would I be able to use a varnish over the friction polish finish?

As I said previously, I don't mind having to spend a little time and effort maintaining the finish if the payoff is a great looking bar top.

Cheers,

Rob


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## YoungSalt (14 Feb 2015)

I can from experience recommend diamond hard floor varnish. Gives a slight Gloss with multiple coats, but will resist all sorts of spilling, scratching and abuse. Takes a while to get the depth of Gloss you might want, but like it's name it is 'diamond hard' and will literally take whatever you can throw at it!


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## ColeyS1 (14 Feb 2015)

YoungSalt":2irzeuqu said:


> I can from experience recommend diamond hard floor varnish. Gives a slight Gloss with multiple coats, but will resist all sorts of spilling, scratching and abuse. Takes a while to get the depth of Gloss you might want, but like it's name it is 'diamond hard' and will literally take whatever you can throw at it!


how many coats roughly ? sounds like a fairly easy to apply finish


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## Phil Pascoe (14 Feb 2015)

I was put off by a friend who used it and said never again, because it scratched so easily. No personal experience though.


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## YoungSalt (14 Feb 2015)

Well I have seen it used on a pub bar top and have personally used it for boat floor boards. It is easy to apply, looks like milk when it goes on and has to be put on carefully and thin or it will bubble, but dries to a semi gloss finish. I would have thought somewhere between 5 and 10 coats, but it can be put on one after the other (within a couple of hours temp dependent) without sanding, so builds quick.


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