# hegner table



## alanjm (16 Feb 2007)

Has anyone ever replaced a hegner table (made it larger) with one they have built themselves? (Not as a false table that fits over the original table)

Alanjm


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## Gill (16 Feb 2007)

Judging by the lack of response so far, Alan, I don't think anyone has. I certainly haven't. Why do you ask? What are you trying to achieve?

Gill


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## scroller frank (17 Feb 2007)

Hi Allan,
No, i haven't done it ,
i cant see it being to difficult though !
but what are you thinking of making it from ,
and, why? :?
--------------Frank-------------


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## Anonymous (18 Feb 2007)

Hi Alan,
I can understand why you feel the need to do this as the Hegner table is quite narrow and I'd be inclined to do the very same thing.
Although I've used a Hegner briefly in the past, I don't know it intimately enough for measurements etc. It's my guess the table is the size it is to allow for maximum left-hand tilt.
If you have a need to cut at 45 degrees then there is a good case for adding an auxiliary table and preferably made of 1/4" steel plate.
This could be bolted through the cast table (or clamped in some way if you don't want to make holes in the Hegner table) and removed if needed.

If you're determined to replace the table then I suggest 3/8" steel plate.
I replaced the table on my Diamond and found 3/8" to be similar in bulk to cast iron.(See the pic I posted in the thread 'Welcome To The Diamond Owners Club')
This will involve some engineering if done on the Hegner as you'll have to recreate the bracket/pivot points etc.

Good luck if you go for it and please let us know how you get on.


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## alanjm (19 Feb 2007)

It was just one of things that sticks in your head that you must get round to doing only for the reason that you know in the past you have been doing something and you wished the table had been bigger and it would have made that job easier. The first time through the thought gets banished to the depths of your little ZX80 of a brain, then a few more cuttings come up and the thought downloads a bit more and eventually it ends up with being somewhere near the top of the list of must do's. And as the daylight start to get a bit longer and brighter you're able to get into the shed a bit more and all those little must do's from the past come racing back to haunt you. My initial idea was to put a sort of plywood border around the standard table but fixing would have been awkward, i then spoke to Hegner who suggested I move up a saw or two (I have a multicut 2S), then I got a bit busy with cutting, then I found this forum and so here i am thinking who better to ask than a group of helpful like minded scrollers, like what you lot are.
Rgds
Alan


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## Anonymous (19 Feb 2007)

If it's just for the odd job then an auxillary table as I've drawn below would be quick and easy to make and use. This is a design I used once on my Delta and it works well.
The use of turnbuttons means it could be installed or taken off in seconds.
You could choose to put a slit in the auxillary table to match the Hegner slit but I personally would opt not to.My reasoning is that it would be more robust without it.

Hope this helps.


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## Gill (19 Feb 2007)

alanjm":1ghpegq6 said:


> ... i then spoke to Hegner who suggested I move up a saw or two (I have a multicut 2S) ...


Gosh, wasn't that helpful of them :lol: ?

I'd be inclined to adopt the false table solution Alan proposed but I fear the turnbuttons might loosen in the fullness of time. I think I'd opt for bolts protruding from the stiffening strip with a wooden bar that could be clamped into position like a caul on a veneer press and tightened either by wing nuts or locking nuts.

I'd suggest you use a material such as plexi for a false table like this. It would enable the workpiece to move smoothly and it would be quite thin. Moreover, it would be easier to detect any flexing in the table if you were to inadvertently over-tighten the bar securing it in place.

Gill


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## alanjm (19 Feb 2007)

thanks Gill and Alan. I do have a false table which I made out of malame faced chipboard. But one of the problems I was trying to overcome is when I use reverse tooth blades (which I do most of the time now) you lose that function when you fit the false table, that was another reason for maybe replacing the Hegner standard table.


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## Anonymous (19 Feb 2007)

For a permanent solution I'd be inclined to agree with you Gill but a quick install and take-off of an auxiliary table for the *odd job* is the object of the exercise here. :wink: 
Users could certainly elaborate on the idea to suit their own needs.
If a decent plywood is used, a good fine sanding and varnishing will prove smooth enough....ALA Diamond !
If friction is an issue (depending on the actual material used) I would opt to add a layer of Formica or similar in preference to the Plexi idea as Plexi scratches easily.


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## Gill (19 Feb 2007)

Ahhhh....scroll reverse blades - I see the problem!

I've just looked at the table on my Hegner and it's mounted on two small separate bolts that are aligned with each other along the length of the saw. They are fitted with friction washers to inhibit the table rotating. In theory, you could remove those bolts and replace them with a long piece of threaded rod which would hold the replacement table in position. In practice, I'd be concerned that there would be a propensity for the replacement table to roll if even a slight pressure was applied off the centre axis.

Most people use scroll reverse blades to minimise burring/tear-out on the underside of a cut. I presume that's why you favour them, Alan? Have you tried using another blade such as the FD 2-Way Cut? Every third tooth on a 2-Way Cut blade is reversed, so that should also help minimise burring on the underside. If you found them satisfactory, you'd be able to use a false table quite happily.

Gill


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## Anonymous (20 Feb 2007)

Gill":3awdzthj said:


> I've just looked at the table on my Hegner and it's mounted on two small separate bolts that are aligned with each other along the length of the saw. They are fitted with friction washers to inhibit the table rotating. In theory, you could remove those bolts and replace them with a long piece of threaded rod which would hold the replacement table in position. In practice, I'd be concerned that there would be a propensity for the replacement table to roll if even a slight pressure was applied off the centre axis.
> Gill



Good point about table roll Gill but this will only happen if the table angle clamp isn't recreated on the new table.
Provided the pivot bolt/s are a good fit, the angle clamp will lock it rock solid.
The Hegner looks a good candidate for a replacement larger table.
3/8" steel plate would be ideal but it would need small blocks of steel bolted or welded for the fixing/pivot points on the underside and drilled out to suit.
A few hours work should see a very worthwhile upgrade to a very good saw. The ability to cut at 45 degrees will possibly be compromised so this should be calculated and taken into account before embarking on such a project ! :roll:


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## alanjm (20 Feb 2007)

Thaks Gill and Alan for your investigative work you did on that little problem. As soon as you mentioned it about the 2 way blades I thought 'why didin't I think of that' so I'll give them a try. But I'm still going to have a look at repalcing the table, bearing in mind some of the ideas you have come up with

Thanks
Alanjm


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