# The "Corby" Workbench



## Shultzy

I, and many others, on the forum managed to visit Corby to purchase these science tables. I bought two of these frames and four tops...







...and I'm going to convert it to this.






This is how they arrived, before cleaning, and after cutting the grooves...






...with this monster. A bit scary to use "hand-held" but I cut the groove in three passes.






I cleaned up the original, made the end panels and the top and bottom rails.






I glued the panels and the top rails. The bottom rails are from another bench and were pocked-holed and glued as they weren't long enough to put a tenon on. I made the feet to raise the original bench. I bored 25mm holes at each end of the long foot, clamped these to the legs and used the hole as a guide to drill into the legs. Same with the short feet. I then turned four 25mm dia dowels and glued all together.






This is my 30 year old scraper which I used to clean off the varnish on the tops which I'm about to cut.






The drawers are 37 3/4" wide and I will use full extension slides and fronts similar to my other drawers shown in the fifth picture. I have lots of offcuts of 1/2" ply and mdf, so to get rid of these off-cuts what combination should I make the drawers out of :-
only the ply
only the mdf
ply base mdf sides
mdf base ply sides
I think it might be prudent to put a strengthening strip under the centre of each drawer base.


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## TheTiddles

were your tops as 'minty fresh' as mine were? I cleaned them off with an old chisel and a toch in the middle of the night when it was cold enough to chip away at... nice.

Aidan


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## Shultzy

They weren't too bad Aidan as I'd left them outside for a month. One had a particularly "sticky" varnish but my scraper got all of it off before I cut the strips.


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## OPJ

I don't think MDF would be sturdy enough for the sides so, leave that for the drawer bases and use the plywood for the drawer sides. Adding a muntin to the drawer base is a good idea. If you make it thick enough, you could have this in the centre and then add two _smaller_ MDF panels for the base. :wink:


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## Shultzy

I finished gluing the top last night. Its made up of four desktops of either Mahogany, Iroko, or something else!






One had a particularly "sticky" varnish but my scraper got all of it off. I cut each top into seven strips, the seventh was cut into six shorter pieces and used to make the bench longer. I then put them through the thicknesser just to skim them ready for gluing. Although I checked the wood for any metal bits, unfortunately I missed a staple which nicked the planer blades. As I have "replaceable blades" and a new set cost £40, I'm going to invest in a metal detector. I glued them in three batches of eight, although in hindsight because of the weight, I should have made them in six batches of four. Gluing was a nightmare as the shorter pieces kept slipping when cramping up. I put them through the thicknesser again before the final gluing and I've only "lost" about 1/4" to leave me with a thickness of 2 7/8". I've had to make a few repairs to the top where screw hole and chips appeared but it doesn't detract from the overall look of the top.

I'm going to put a 2" wide by 3 1/2" or 4" deep beech apron around the top, dovetailed at each corner. 

Is it cheaper to buy 1" than 2" thick boards or are they priced the same per cube.


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## Mr Ed

That is one substantial benchtop Shultzy! Looking good.

Cheers, Ed


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## shim20

thats a mega bench top :shock:


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## wizer

Shultzy":2osui84r said:


> unfortunately I missed a staple which nicked the planer blades.



Damnit! I got hit by this the other day. Managed to reduce the nicks considerably with one of those diamond planer blade hones. Stupidly, I hadn't got the spares sharpened yet, so I'll have to wait a couple of days to get them back in.

That top looks lovely, plenty substantial.

If anything I'd have thought it'd be cheaper the thicker you bought?


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## Mr Ed

Afraid it is not cheaper the thicker you buy.

2" material will be substantially more expensive than 1" for the same cubic footage.

Wouldst that it were the other way round but alas not.

Cheers, Ed.


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## Shultzy

Thanks Ed, can I assume what this is also true for widths? ie. 12" wide is more than twice 6" wide?


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## 9fingers

Shultzy":3mjv6kjd said:


> Thanks Ed, can I assume what this is also true for widths? ie. 12" wide is more than twice 6" wide?



Yup, even more so for 6" to 12" wide than 1" to 2" thick in my experience.

If you need 12" finished, it is probably most cost effective to prepare & join 3 off 5" sawn boards. Much better chance of it staying flat too.

Bob


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## Mr Ed

Yes Schultzy, but depends a bit on the yard where the break points in price are on width.

If you look here for example at SL Hardwoods you can see how the prices increase with width. Bear in mind these prices are per linear metre though, not cu ft, so the difference is not as bad as first seems. What you can see is that American White Oak 115mm is £16/m and 240mm is £37/m, which is a more than twice as much for the double width board.

http://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/looseboards.asp

I have found other more 'old fashioned' yards are sometimes less bothered about width.

Ed


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## Paul Chapman

That bench top looks great, Shultzy.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## OPJ

Did you not use biscuits, splines or any other kind of reinforcement to help keep all the components aligned?

I'm assuming you glued the top up in smaller sections - otherwise, you must have one heck of a thicknesser to be able to thickness a 28" wide top!! :shock: :roll: :wink:


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## Shultzy

Hi OPJ, I didn't use any biscuits as I only needed to get the edges "near enough". The problem I had was the small pieces (about 7"") were either pulling away from the piece next to them or riding up as I put pressure on with the clamps. Remember there are two short pieces at either end, awkward when there is only one pair of hands  .

I glued four lengths together at a time and then put them over the planer before gluing two "fours" together. My planer is only 10" wide.


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## Paul Chapman

Shultzy":7kbp2uzy said:


> I didn't use any biscuits as I only needed to get the edges "near enough". The problem I had was the small pieces (about 7"") were either pulling away from the piece next to them or riding up as I put pressure on with the clamps.



I would always use biscuits or loose tenons for a job like that. In my experience, it's not always predictable which way the pieces are going to slide when you get glue on them and tighten up the cramps. Apart from the general hassle, you can sometimes have to remove a lot of material planing the work flat again if some pieces slide one way and some the other. Still, it looks good  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## cambournepete

That bench does indeed look great - much posher than mine.

When I saw the title I did wonder how you could make a bench out of trouser presses though...


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## ddashk

is that a blizzard forklift?


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## Shultzy

ddashk":c4k0fml1 said:


> is that a blizzard forklift?



If you mean the model in my avatar, then yes it is. A larger photo in on my photo site. I have half completed the silver ghost as well.


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## CWatters

I'm sorry but it's against the law to use something that good as a work bench. Put it in the kitchen immediatly


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## Shultzy

I've just finished phase two - the drawers.







They are 30" wide and 17" deep on 450mm full extension slides. The fronts are recycled "bed-slats" lippings around the remains of my workshop roof. The sides are 12mm ply and the base is 12mm mdf with a central muntin.

The eagle-eyed amongst you will no doubt notice that the muntin on view is not central. I ran out of 12mm mdf so I had to glue two pieces end-on to fit.


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## Chems

Looks great, can we get a full body shot?


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## Shultzy

'fraid not Chems, that's in phase three  . The top isn't finished as I haven't sourced the beech for the surround.


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## wizer

Coming along nicely. I like that this is all reclaimed wood.


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## Chems

Look forward to seeing it Shultyz. 

On a side not, when you made the top did you do anything with the ends of the lengths to make them butt up to the 6 inch strips better?


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## OPJ

Nice drawers and you're never far away from your radiator ~ lovely!


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## Derek Willis.

Shultzy,
All looks very good to me, but, tell me, what is the grooving cutter you used, I don't think I have seen one like that anywhere?
Derek.


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## 9fingers

Possibly like this one? http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... 0_130.html
with associated spindle and bearings
Bit hairy to use free hand but OK with care.

Bob


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## Derek Willis.

Bob,
That looks like the one, thanks, will pursue it, just what I need.
Derek.


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## Lord Nibbo

9fingers":2r3neq97 said:


> Possibly like this one? http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... 0_130.html
> with associated spindle and bearings
> Bit hairy to use free hand but OK with care.
> 
> Bob


 
I've got the 10mm slot cutter in this range and use it quite a lot along with a stop bearing to cut 19mm deep, I have to slow my router down to about 1/4 of it's speed, it cuts superbly worth every penny. Using the 8mm arbour make the tool very versatile in changing the cutters and bearings.


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## Shultzy

Chems":1293ntbj said:


> On a side note, when you made the top did you do anything with the ends of the lengths to make them butt up to the 6 inch strips better?



I had problems with the short pieces, as they slid about when I clamped them up. I just tapped them up before I finally tightened the clamps up.

As most of you have guessed the grooving cutter is from Wealdens. Its 6mm slot cutter and I chose this thickness as I thought that the 12mm cutter might produce too tight a slot for 12mm ply. Also a 6mm slot cutter will cut any width slot above 6mm which makes it a little more versatile.


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## Derek Willis.

I don't suppose they do it with half inch shank, do they? I don't have 8mm. collett, but am very intrigued.
Derek.


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## 9fingers

Derek,

I think you will find most suppliers will do grooving cutter and a selection of shanks. A quick flick through catalogues beside my armchair show that Trend, Titman and axminster(CMT) all do what you are asking for.

Good luck

Bob


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## Derek Willis.

Bob, 
I've trawled all these catalogues, but they only go up to 6.4mm. the Wealden one go up to 12.7mm. it is the larger groovers that I wasfter, on half inch shank.
Derek.


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## Jake

Yes, they have a 1/2 inch arbour. These are great cutters, although almost as pricey as spindle tooling!


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## 9fingers

Apologies Derek, 

I did not realise you wanted a 12.7 cutter - I only checked shank size  

As Jake states Wealden do sell a 1/2" shank to take 8mm groovers. just search for "arbor" or T3043-1/2 Arbor 8.

Bob


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## Derek Willis.

Thanks, I suppose if I went onto Wealdon's site a bit more I would have known that, but, as I have a very extensive range of cutters, albeit, a bit ancient now, I would have seen it.
Derek.


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## Shultzy

Managed to source the beech for the workbench top from Capricorn Timber in Marchington (about 16miles north of Lichfield). I paid £32.54 cu ft (+vat) for two boards (1 1/4" x 9"x7' and 2"x7"x11'). Its a very large site and the people there are very friendly. All the wood is under cover and they will let you sort for a board. The only down side is you need to phone to make an appointment as they won't serve the public if they are very busy loading and unloading large quantities of timber.

I think this needs to go on our timber suppliers list.

http://www.capricorntimber.co.uk


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## Shultzy

After restraining myself from using the workshop over Christmas, Ive finally managed to progress the workbench. I've machined the sides and ends from the beech I bought and used them to support the surfacing jig (thanks Lord Nibbo). After leveling the top I set the sides at 1/2" below. I set the surfacing bit ( http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... m_249.html ) level to the worktop surface and fixed the depth stop. I then routed out both sled runners. I set the router to a further 0.25mm and routed the first pass from the right in about 30mm strips.

Fortunately the initial planing and gluing was reasonably accurate and I only needed a further 0.75mm (taken in two passes) to make the top completely flat.

I had to shim the lhs of the router base a fraction as the passes were leaving a step of about the thickness of two pieces of paper.

I think the shading on the top is the "nap" due to the router blade direction but will sand out. I'll get the sander out tomorrow and shine it up .


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## joiner_sim

I love the idea of that surfacing jig! :lol:


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## motownmartin

Nice one =D> =D> =D>


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## joiner_sim

What does the jig slide on, and how is it secured and made accurate?


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## neilc

Shultzy

Your going to end up with a fantastic bench, well done.

=D> =D> =D> 

Neil


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## Shultzy

joiner_sim":1ct0pbvi said:


> What does the jig slide on, and how is it secured and made accurate?



The accuracy starts from the two beams that support the jig. Lord Nibbo used cramp bars but I don't have any long enough so I used lengths of beech which will be used to surround the worktop. These need to be level side to side and front to back. The jig runners thickness is not critical as long as they are the same thickness and higher than the worktop. I used 3/4" mdf for the router base and side support. These are squared and screwed to the jig slide. The jig doesn't need to be square across the table, it just has to be the same height at either end above the support rails.


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## Lord Nibbo

Shultzy":av9yimtb said:


> joiner_sim":av9yimtb said:
> 
> 
> 
> What does the jig slide on, and how is it secured and made accurate?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The accuracy starts from the two beams that support the jig. Lord Nibbo used cramp bars but I don't have any long enough so I used lengths of beech which will be used to surround the worktop. These need to be level side to side and front to back.
Click to expand...


This pic might make it clearer for joiner sims questions.







Spot on shultzy with the importance of getting the two long rails exactly level with each other and checking/correcting them to remove any possibility of winding in the length, it's hard to see in the little pic but I used shims between the long rails and the clamps that pass under the top. 

I know when you get to sanding it you will be please as punch how flat and level it will be in fact it will be perfect. 

=D>


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## Shultzy

I've started on the side pieces and a question comes to mind, do I; coach bolt and plug, screw and plug, or just glue the sides to the top.


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## TheTiddles

Glue the sides and bolt the ends, adding some dowels or similar to the sides helps too

Aidan


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## Shultzy

I'm very pleased. Its been over 40 years since I last made any hand-cut dovetail joints, and I've never made any of the half-blind variety. These have turned out reasonably well although I'm miffed that with the bench in this position only one of the joints will be visible and it wasn't one of the better ones.

The top is now as smooth as a baby's bottom after a hand application of some 320 Abranet, and ready for the finish. Attention is now focused on taking the Record 53E apart, cleaning up and re-oiling. I'm going to make the replaceable cheeks out of pine 3/4" thick with an additional 1" thick beech cover for the front jaw.


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## wizer

Finishing post in sight Shultzy. I think it looks very good.


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## Chems

That looks fantastic. I don't think I have any hope of mine coming out as nice as that!

Well done Shultzy.


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## Shultzy

Finished at last. I put the last coat of finish on it last night and de-nibbed it with 600 grit this morning. Its in its final resting place(!) at the entrance to the workshop. It looks good enough for the kitchen but perhaps I shouldn't show swimbo just in case :lol: .






The outside of the jaws are in beech with the jaw pads in pine I think. Might have to take a pic of the face to see if anybody can identify it.


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## Doug B

Excellent Shultzy, very well done.
Hope mine comes out as good.

Doug.


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## Lord Nibbo

Now that's really really nice, it looks very strong and nice & heavy. =D> =D> =D>


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## wizer

Tremendous, well done. Something that will last for the rest of our life.


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## DeanN

Very nice - too nice to use though, especially that polished top. What finish did you use on it ?


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## Oryxdesign

wizer":1wh57lqq said:


> Tremendous, well done. Something that will last for the rest of our life.



wizer have you got something going on with Shultzy?


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## wizer

ooops  I think that's twice this week you've caught me out Simon. :roll:


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## Oryxdesign

Made me laugh out loud! :lol:


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## OPJ

Excellent work. Something to feel very proud of and it'll last a lifetime!


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## TheTiddles

I think the cabinet base doesn't fit with the standard of the top, maybe a future project there...

Aidan


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## Racers

Hi, Shultzy

Nice bench mate. 


Pete


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## Shultzy

Thanks for the nice comment folks, much appreciated. 

Sorry Wizer, I'm already spoken for, but I'll put you on my list just in case :lol: 



DeanN":sv9leeyk said:


> Very nice - too nice to use though, especially that polished top. What finish did you use on it ?



The top is finished with four coats of Ronseal satin coated polyurethane varnish. I would normally rub down between coats but after info found on the finishing forum I only rubbed down the last coat with 600 grit and its very smooth.



TheTiddles":sv9leeyk said:


> I think the cabinet base doesn't fit with the standard of the top, maybe a future project there.



Not sure what you mean Aidan, unless its the feet, which I must admit was the best I could think of to increase the height.


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## ibcallus

Hi Shultzy,
Brilliant project and well explained with pic's and comments, thank you very much, being a novice to woodworking you have give me the incentive to have a bash at making your bench also your router table, cant wait superb.

ibcallus


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## ColeyS1

Cracking use of recycled timber Shultzy. The bench looks fantastic ! I like the method you used for leveling the top. With suitable sized bearers, any size top could be leveled then 8) Ace :!: Your vice jaws im particularly keen on to-May have to nab that idea if you dont mind :lol: 

Simon


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## Shultzy

Please feel free to "nick" :lol: whatever info you want, this is what the forum is about.


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## Acanthus

Hi Shultzy

A fantastic bench, and a beautifully illustrated WIP, for which I thank you. 

Feedback time: you have now had it available for use for about 9 months. Could we have a progress report please? Does the heavy duty top really make all that difference? How has the undercarriage worked in practice? How did you feel when you first scratched the top? Do the drawers collect great quantities of dust? With hindsight is there anything that you would do differently? Have you been able, or been inspired to construct better quality work because of the bench? 

I only ask, as I feel a growing urge to build something better than my ancient (and rather warped) warhorse of a bench. Is it really worth all of the work? 

Cheers
David


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## Shultzy

Thanks for asking, I never thought to revisit the finished build but here goes:-



Acanthus":2g1ws3cg said:


> Does the heavy duty top really make all that difference?



Yes, it gives it mass which is needed to make the bench stable, it really is heavy. I've bent metal in the vice without the bench moving at all.




Acanthus":2g1ws3cg said:


> How has the undercarriage worked in practice?



Great, because of the plywood panels (more mass) it doesn't rack one bit.



Acanthus":2g1ws3cg said:


> How did you feel when you first scratched the top?


A bit miffed really as it's usually covered with a sheet of hardboard if I'm using chisels. It was from a bit of grit picked up from the floor on a table leg I was moving on the top. Apart from knocks on the edges its hardly marked. I do try to keep it unmarked but it is a working bench so I'm not too bothered.



Acanthus":2g1ws3cg said:


> Do the drawers collect great quantities of dust?



No dust gets in unless I leave them open.



Acanthus":2g1ws3cg said:


> With hindsight is there anything that you would do differently?



I think I would have had two sets of three drawers. Only because if I try to open them using one handle they are heavy. Using both handles they glide out very easily.



Acanthus":2g1ws3cg said:


> Have you been able, or been inspired to construct better quality work because of the bench?



Not really as I'm always inspired to construct good quality work. In 40 years of woodworking this is the first "quality" bench I've had and it has made holding wood easier, and therefore the quality is more attainable.



Acanthus":2g1ws3cg said:


> Is it really worth all of the work?



Only you can answer this question. I made it because I wanted a good bench. The quality of it was derived from viewing the many excellent benches and constructive comment from our members. The "worth" comes from the "I made that" at the end of the build. When people more able than me can only "nit-pick" I know I've made quality work.


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## Shultzy

Sorry to bump this project. I, as many others, had the photos on the Fotopic web site which went "belly up" last April. I've managed to recover the pictures and now host them on Picasa, so after re-editing the locations they are now all available.


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