# What push blocks



## Jmac80 (26 Jul 2015)

Hello All

Looking to get some decent push blocks to use with my planer/thicknesser, the ones i have just slide on the wood, no grip at all.
What ones do you guys have? Make your own?
The grr-rip push block ones seem very popular over the pond but we don't seem to have them here?
http://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ri ... ndex.shtml

Cheers


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## Ed Bray (26 Jul 2015)

You can get them here, I've got a couple of the Grr-ripper Advanced, make life very safe for both the tablesaw and planer, try toolovation.co.uk

Good to deal with, I have had a couple of Collins Coping Foot's from them and a Oneida Antistatic Dust Deputy too.


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## Jmac80 (26 Jul 2015)

Nice one, will check hem out. cheers Ed


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## -Matt- (26 Jul 2015)

How about making a flat board say 150x250mm, with a nice shaped handle (perhaps a D shaped arch or a plate tote style) and gluing that grippy rubber stuff you can get for car dashboards to the underside?

-Matt-


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## Myfordman (26 Jul 2015)

You can make your own using sheets of table tennis bat rubber or even 60-80 grit sandpaper to get grip.


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## Jacob (27 Jul 2015)

Push blocks are basically a bad idea as you have to reach over the workpiece. This shortens your reach and leaves your arm exposed to the cutters when you are most out-stretched.
Push sticks much better. Just the basic design as below but copied in ply of mdf. Keep the plastic one for referenece.
Almost always use two. Have a few of them scattered about so you can always reach them.
They become second nature and actually improve your dexterity and control after a bit of practice. You find you can do things quite safely which would be impossibly dangerous by hand and impossible/risky with push blocks.


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## JakeS (27 Jul 2015)

Maybe I'm using my P/T all wrong, but how are your arms exposed to the cutters in particular at full reach? Where are you standing?

I find myself standing more or less in line with the cutter block and feeding stuff before or after the cutters with push blocks, I don't see how I'm exposed to the blades at all when the guard is properly in place! Obviously if I'm doing something [unnecessarily] unsafe I'd like to know about it!


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## woodbrains (27 Jul 2015)

Hello,

If you notice those push blocks are almost always shown on American style 'leg of mutton' planer guards. Theses guards swing out of the way, exposing far too much cutter block, so these push blocks seem to be favoured, as they effectively become a guard, as they are passed over the cutters. European bridge guards should be used so that nothing is ever passed over the cutters, except the wood, so I do not see the use for these push blocks here. They would be awkward, in fact, since they have to be lifted over the bridge. I must say, I can't remember the last time I even needed some sort of push block/stick, on a planer. I never cut the wood so short it cannot be safely pushed with hands. Anything around 2feet and longer if perfectly safe to guide with hands only. Anything 1 foot or less should not be used on a surface planer as the chances of an end tipping into the cutters are too high. The instances a push device could be needed are vanishingly small, really and with a bit of forethought, timber is never cut too small in the first place. Anything too small for the planer is not hard work to hand plane. Beware of American internet info!

Mike.


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## woodbrains (27 Jul 2015)

JakeS":16m8r3xm said:


> Maybe I'm using my P/T all wrong, but how are your arms exposed to the cutters in particular at full reach? Where are you standing?
> 
> I find myself standing more or less in line with the cutter block and feeding stuff before or after the cutters with push blocks, I don't see how I'm exposed to the blades at all when the guard is properly in place! Obviously if I'm doing something [unnecessarily] unsafe I'd like to know about it!



Hello,

Why do you think you need push blocks? If the bridge guard is set to just above the timber thickness, and you push it from behind until there is enough through the other side, to pull it from the outfeed side, where do the push blocks come in? No hands come near the cutters, unless you know you are doing something silly. Are you scared of hand feeding? Why?

Mike.


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## PAC1 (27 Jul 2015)

woodbrains":1j29rym1 said:


> JakeS":1j29rym1 said:
> 
> 
> > Maybe I'm using my P/T all wrong, but how are your arms exposed to the cutters in particular at full reach? Where are you standing?
> ...


Mike I agree with all you have said save for pulling from the out feed table. The wood should always be pushed as you cannot maintain downward pressure whilst pulling.


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## Jacob (27 Jul 2015)

If you leave a gap between end of guard and fence just wide enough for the push stick (i.e. 1/2" or thereabouts) you can follow through with the right-hand push stick in one movement without having to change position and without getting your fingers anywhere near the cutters. The left-hand push stick has to jump the guard of course.


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## DennisCA (27 Jul 2015)

I do not have a euro style guard on my jointer and so I use a big and wide pushblock with a little bit sticking out on the end to catch the piece. I don't see how a swan style push stick would work here, the piece needs to be pressed down firmly against the table. If I had a euro style guard I'd just use my hands.


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## Peter Sefton (27 Jul 2015)

Roger Phebey first bought the Micro Jig products into the UK a few years ago when he owned Wood Workers Workshop. So we have inherited the largest range of the Grippers and spares in Europe. They are very good and we do use them in the school and I would recommend using them alongside traditional guards not instead of them.

Cheers Peter


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## Sgian Dubh (27 Jul 2015)

For the most part I'm with others on the push block question in that I generally don't use them if I can avoid it, but there are times when they can be helpful. These occasions usually occur if the wood is already smooth, and it's difficult to grip and push just with the palms of the hands because of the relative lack of friction. Perhaps the wood's been machined up at some point and needs machining again to a final dimension. An example here might be boards (destined for a panel glue-up) previously machined fairly close to final dimension, stickered, and left to settle for a week or two. A final machining to get the wood just so is required. Push blocks can be helpful in that situation, particularly on the outfeed table where the bulk of the downward pressure and forward momentum is required. 

The other type of push block already mentioned is the hooked rear end design. This type is used if the piece being flattened is too short for working with the bridge guard in place, something perhaps only 350 - 400 mm long. I generally advise against this type of operation if possible, but it's a method of work approved by HSE, see page 3 in the link. Slainte.


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## n0legs (27 Jul 2015)

Trust me when I say this.
USE THE FREAKING GUARD AND GET SOME PUSH PADS, IT DON'T MATTER WHICH ONES JUST KEEP YOUR PINKIES AWAY FROM THE BLADES  :lol: 





Planer accident June 2013. All healed up now but could have really done without it :roll:
Seriously though take care, I think I was lucky.


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## Jacob (27 Jul 2015)

DennisCA":1baqk9ka said:


> I do not have a euro style guard on my jointer and so I use a big and wide pushblock with a little bit sticking out on the end to catch the piece. I don't see how a swan style push stick would work here, the piece needs to be pressed down firmly against the table. If I had a euro style guard I'd just use my hands.


Practice practice!. They do work. The 'beak" allows you to press down and push forwards and/or inwards towards the fence. If necessary you can press down firmly in the middle of the workpiece with one (usually the left hander) whilst pushing with the other.
They are very versatile and you soon get to see them as essential and with better control than just your hands - not least because they effectively increase your reach.


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## JakeS (27 Jul 2015)

woodbrains":sdttvt3n said:


> Why do you think you need push blocks? If the bridge guard is set to just above the timber thickness, and you push it from behind until there is enough through the other side, to pull it from the outfeed side, where do the push blocks come in? No hands come near the cutters, unless you know you are doing something silly. Are you scared of hand feeding? Why?



I use push blocks because even with the bridge guard in place, there's a gap to the sides of the timber when I'm planing something that isn't the full width of the cutter block/bed (which is most of the time). The thicker the stock, the taller and more hand-sized that gap is! On the off-chance that I slip and go down towards the side, a push-block means that there's at least the chance that the push-block goes under the bridge before my hand does. Realistically there's a relatively small chance that it'll ever happen, but I _have_ the push blocks, so I use them.

I did try Jacob's approach of using sticks - I have some just like that for the table saw and bandsaw - but I find the blocks more easy to control the timber with on the P/T. But no, I don't find that my hands or the push blocks get anywhere near the blades, and I don't understand the claim elsewhere on the thread that you can't apply downward pressure while pulling on the outfeed.


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## damo8604 (27 Jul 2015)

n0legs":1zh93yr9 said:


> Trust me when I say this.
> USE THE FREAKING GUARD AND GET SOME PUSH PADS, IT DON'T MATTER WHICH ONES JUST KEEP YOUR PINKIES AWAY FROM THE BLADES  :lol:
> 
> 
> ...


Woah.... Nasty!

Did you remove your wedding band before or after the accident?


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## n0legs (27 Jul 2015)

damo8604":2l3wzjnr said:


> Woah.... Nasty!
> 
> Did you remove your wedding band before or after the accident?



It had to be cut off after the accident due to concerns about my finger swelling.
Which it did. Then it was £50 to get the ring repaired, small price really all things considered.


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## woodbrains (27 Jul 2015)

PAC1":9xg8meee said:


> woodbrains":9xg8meee said:
> 
> 
> > JakeS":9xg8meee said:
> ...



Hello,

The outfeed table is actually the reference side of the machine. Once the wood has passed the cutters, the flattened, or partially flattened wood needs to be in contact with the outfeed table for the rough side to be planed parallel to it. If the In feed side is pressed down, there is a likelyhood that a bow will cause the outfeed side to lift and the flat reference is lost. The action of pressing the wood down and moving it forward on the outfield table is no different to pressing and moving it forward on the infeed, so there is no issue with maintaining pressure, it is just Wobblies on the infeed.

If the OP feels safer with push pads, then fair enough. I have to have a wood machining safety certificate for my job. The last time I took the test, the examiner talked about push pads and although they are not outlawed in industry, they have little practical place there. Any timber big enough to be machined keeps the hands away from cutters. Anything too small or oddly shaped, will need special guarding/auto feeding, where the pads will be of no use either. Use them, but don't use them where you wouldn't be safe to use hands only, would be my advice.

Mike.


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## Phil Pascoe (27 Jul 2015)

:idea: I cut the back of my wedding ring and rounded the ends. I caught it badly one day and ripped it off, never to be seen again. I still have the finger though.


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## ayuce (27 Jul 2015)

Just for cuiosity, is there any simple cheap aftermarket power feed for planer ? Smtg like simple rubber roller on the outfeed table. Even the simplest thicknessers have power feed and anti kickback claws, but no planer ?


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## PAC1 (27 Jul 2015)

Mike, I agree with you. I said nothing about pressing down on the infeed table. I said I prefer to push rather than pull the wood. For some reason I think you can maintain pressure better pushing than pulling. If you pull the wood there is a tendency to lift it even if ever so slightly and sub conciously.


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## Jacob (27 Jul 2015)

PAC1":3oik9xc0 said:


> Mike, I agree with you. I said nothing about pressing down on the infeed table. I said I prefer to push rather than pull the wood. For some reason I think you can maintain pressure better pushing than pulling. If you pull the wood there is a tendency to lift it even if ever so slightly and sub conciously.


Push sticks - it's push all the way. Pulling is not good.


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## Jacob (27 Jul 2015)

ayuce":3o8wrwgs said:


> Just for curiosity, is there any simple cheap aftermarket power feed for planer ? Smtg like simple rubber roller on the outfeed table. Even the simplest thicknessers have power feed and anti kickback claws, but no planer ?


I think power feeds don't work too well with a planer as sawn timber needs a lot of thought given as to how/where to push, push down, etc. Once you have one flat face or edge a power feed (thicknesser, spindle etc) comes into its own.


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## Beau (27 Jul 2015)

woodbrains":2t7l6f0m said:


> Hello,
> 
> The outfeed table is actually the reference side of the machine. Once the wood has passed the cutters, the flattened, or partially flattened wood needs to be in contact with the outfeed table for the rough side to be planed parallel to it. If the In feed side is pressed down, there is a likelyhood that a bow will cause the outfeed side to lift and the flat reference is lost. The action of pressing the wood down and moving it forward on the outfield table is no different to pressing and moving it forward on the infeed, so there is no issue with maintaining pressure, it is just Wobblies on the infeed.
> 
> ...




This

Also if you keep your knives sharp the cutting almost holds the wood down against the tables. It's when the blades get blunt that you start needing more downward pressure


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## custard (27 Jul 2015)

Beau":127v65f3 said:


> if you keep your knives sharp the cutting almost holds the wood down against the tables. It's when the blades get blunt that you start needing more downward pressure



+1

Because the change in performance of your planer happens quite slowly it isn't always easy to recognise when your knives need sharpening or changing. I link knife changes to emptying the dust extractor bags, which makes sense because the great majority of the waste comes from the planer/thicknesser. 

If I'm using normal HSS disposable blades it normally works out at 600-1000 litres of waste per knife change (that's on a 17" four knife block), if I'm using carbide knives then that can be doubled or trebled...unless I've been planing Iroko or Rosewood when it can be halved! Most commercial workshops have a regular knife changing cycle that isn't too different. During a period of heavy use that might mean knife changes every couple of days. If a workshop was running the planer or thicknesser non stop they might not get through a working day without a knife change.

I suspect that's way, way more frequent than the changing/sharpening regime of many hobbyists. I was talking to one chap who bought a new machine three years ago and had never removed the knives! For a hobbyist he was a reasonably serious user as well, I worked it out that he was probably running his blades at least ten times as long as I ran mine, maybe twenty times! 

No surprise there are accidents. Once knives get as blunt as that you have to really push hard to get the board over the planer tables, and gluing up edges straight from the planer would be just asking for a joint failure because the board would be bouncing along over the knives.


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## Phil Pascoe (27 Jul 2015)

"I link knife changes to emptying the dust extractor bags" You get used to this way of thinking. I always touched up the chain on my chainsaw every time it ran out of petrol.


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## woodpig (28 Jul 2015)

-Matt-":kb24bdiu said:


> How about making a flat board say 150x250mm, with a nice shaped handle (perhaps a D shaped arch or a plate tote style) and gluing that grippy rubber stuff you can get for car dashboards to the underside?
> 
> -Matt-



Should work just as well as the bought ones but at one tenth of the cost. :wink:


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## PAC1 (28 Jul 2015)

Jacob - I use push sticks on the saw all the time but on the planer I cannot see the advantage. I keep my hand at least 1 foot away from the blade with the guard properly fitted. I do not plane short lengths so I cannot understand why the loss of control outweighs any safety concern

You can use a power feeder for planer but I do not see how you can properly straighten the wood when using a power feeder as you have no ability to let the planer plane out the bow.


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## Jacob (28 Jul 2015)

PAC1":345snt0s said:


> Jacob - I use push sticks on the saw all the time but on the planer I cannot see the advantage. ....


You may not see it but if you get into the habit the advantage soon makes itself apparent. 
I wouldn't use machines without them except for obvious exceptions such as when the workpiece is so big there is no chance of getting your fingers too close to the cutters. Even then the last push past the exposed cutters (or saw blades) is safer done with a right hand push stick - steadying it with the left hand stick.
They also increase your reach - you can reach over the cutters to flip a piece out of the way, or to touch the off switch, etc.
NB I see them as sacrificial - occasionally losing the end and reshaping/remaking. This is why plastic is no good.


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## DiscoStu (28 Jul 2015)

I've got a couple of plastic push sticks but I made one out of 18mm mdf and that works well. 

I'd suggest that I use them when I think I need to. Not often on the planner though as generally the material is big and I don't need to get near the blades. I tend to find I move from pushing the work through to pulling the last foot or so through - but maybe this is all wrong?


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## custard (28 Jul 2015)

PAC1":2rs43kes said:


> Jacob - I use push sticks on the saw all the time but on the planer I cannot see the advantage. I keep my hand at least 1 foot away from the blade with the guard properly fitted. I do not plane short lengths so I cannot understand why the loss of control outweighs any safety concern
> 
> You can use a power feeder for planer but I do not see how you can properly straighten the wood when using a power feeder as you have no ability to let the planer plane out the bow.



When I specced my machine I chose the option of having the power feed on a longer arm, allowing it to be used on the planer. I should have saved my money! Apart from occasional and largely theoretical benefits on edge planing it's pretty useless for exactly the reasons you say.

I don't agree however with your point about push sticks. To keep your hands at least a foot away from the cutter would mean the shortest length you could practically handle would be something over two foot long. Anything shorter would just sit on the cutter block as you couldn't pull it on the outfeed table, nor push it on the indeed table without being in breach of your sensible rule. So under these, and other circumstances, I follow the guidelines of the Health & Safety Executive and use a push stick,

http://www.hse.gov.uk/woodworking/planer.htm


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## memzey (28 Jul 2015)

These are the kinds of push sticks I favour using:





Always using two, one pushes the stock against the fence the other, keeps it flat to the table and directs it the through the saw/cutter. I see that the push block type seem to be quite fashionable nowadays but I can't for the life of me see how having your hands that close to a blade can be advisable in the name of safety. I also find that having a push stick in both hands obviates any urge to use fingers in split second situations which is often when accidents happen.


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## PAC1 (28 Jul 2015)

HSE recommend push blocks not sticks. I use the method stated in the HSE leaflet
You can avoid planing wood shorter than 2ft by either cutting the piece longer. And then trim to size after planing or if say you are making 15" rails invariably they come in pairs so cut the wood long enough to make two rails. Anything really short hand plane and then use the thicknesser. 
Custard -same here I fell for the line that you could use the power feeder to surface plane when I bought my power feeder five years later it has never happened. 
Jacob I get all you say just I do not get it for planing. On the table saw and spindle I agree but on the planer I was taught the left hand jumps over the bridge as soon as there is enough wood for it to land on and the right hand never passes over the block whether surfacing or especially edging


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## Jacob (28 Jul 2015)

PAC1":36q5bry5 said:


> ......
> Jacob I get all you say just I do not get it for planing. On the table saw and spindle I agree but on the planer I was taught the left hand jumps over the bridge as soon as there is enough wood for it to land on and the right hand never passes over the block whether surfacing or especially edging


Exactly the same but with a push stick in each hand.


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## PAC1 (28 Jul 2015)

Jacob, so if you were planing a 2.1m 115 x 75 door jamb you would use push sticks? If yes why is that better than using your hands? Same with say a 300mm x 25 panel?


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## Sgian Dubh (28 Jul 2015)

PAC1":doc47fyx said:


> Jacob, so if you were planing a 2.1m 115 x 75 door jamb you would use push sticks? If yes why is that better than using your hands? Same with say a 300mm x 25 panel?


Me too! I've never managed to work out how Jacob routinely uses push sticks on a surface planer, something he's mentioned many times in the past, especially for larger and heavier stuff. I can just about see how they might occasionally have a use in edging smaller pieces, but for everything else, it's got me a bit stumped. 

Ninety nine per cent of every thing I surface plane or edge I do with the standard hand over hand technique or motion demonstrated and taught to all trainees, learners and students of trade instruction, colleges, and just about any other learning environment I can think of - it's the same technique I was taught for using a surface planer. And in all the training I've given to furniture students on these machines over the years, there's never been pair of the bird's mouth style push sticks Jacob advocates anywhere near the machine, primarily because they're usually somewhere near machines where their more likely to find a use, e.g., bandsaw, rip saw, spindle moulder, etc. Slainte.


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## Jacob (28 Jul 2015)

PAC1":11zm8hus said:


> Jacob, so if you were planing a 2.1m 115 x 75 door jamb you would use push sticks? If yes why is that better than using your hands? Same with say a 300mm x 25 panel?


Both. I'd use my hands but have a push stick in each of them to give longer reach when needed but mainly for the last bit where the cutters are exposed. You just get used to it. And you can be a bit lax about a top guard as your hands are never going anywhere near the cutters.
There's all sorts of little advantages e.g, your 2.1m piece - if you don't want it to drop off the end of the out-feed you can hold down the end after it's passed the cutters and walk round the machine to grab it near the middle.
With care you can also do some otherwise impossible things like planing very short but wide pieces - say a 6" square piece of board; some danger of kickback but no risk to fingers.
You have your two push sticks either in your hands or easily within reach, all the time.

if it's large and heavy and there is no risk of touching the cutters you don't need them so much - except for the last bit as it leaves the cutters exposed. But it's still good practice to try and shift it with push sticks.


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## Jmac80 (28 Jul 2015)

Just ordered 2 x micro-jig grr-rip blocks from wood workers workshop.
The wife made me (and paid for one of them) after i showed her n0legs picture of his hand in this thread :lol: :lol: :twisted: 

n0legs??? .... n0hands =D> 

http://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/epages ... cts/MJ_GB1


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## n0legs (29 Jul 2015)

Jmac80":vkgtgni7 said:


> Just ordered 2 x micro-jig grr-rip blocks from wood workers workshop.
> The wife made me (and paid for one of them) after i showed her n0legs picture of his hand in this thread :lol: :lol: :twisted:
> 
> n0legs??? .... n0hands =D>




Excellent result my friend =D> :lol: 
What else do you want, I'll see what other pictures I can post :lol:


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## DennisCA (29 Jul 2015)

Not just in woodworking you can loose limbs. My auto mechanic had a beam fall on his hand and ripped his thumb off, only held on with a bit of flesh. 17 hour surgery to re-attach and still unsure to what degree of recovery it'll be.

Honestly I can't wait for the promised future to get here with regards to prosthetics that feel and you can control with your mind. I know many people who would have great use of such things, including children born without all their digits.


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## PAC1 (29 Jul 2015)

Jacob-thank you for the explanation. I will continue using my hands. A push pad is better for small 6" square pieces as the wood cannot take flight. I still prefer to hand plane such small pieces to an approximation of flat and then use the thicknesser with a false bed 2' long so that I can safely retrieve the piece.


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## Jacob (29 Jul 2015)

PAC1":14he2f1s said:


> ..... A push pad is better for small 6" square pieces as the wood cannot take flight.


Watch this videoof that fat yank nearly losing his fingers as his workpiece takes flight from under his grabber. Hands too near the cutters - a much bigger hazard than the dangers of kick back (often exaggerated)
I don't rate that HSE grabber video either, for the same reasons. Also because the left hand becomes redundant - much better with a push stick in each


> I still prefer to hand plane such small pieces ...


Me too - I was just using that as an example of what you can do with push sticks - they can make you very versatile.


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## Peter Sefton (29 Jul 2015)

Jacob":3jf5jq7t said:


> PAC1":3jf5jq7t said:
> 
> 
> > ..... A push pad is better for small 6" square pieces as the wood cannot take flight.
> ...




I don't like planing anything under 400mm long on a surface planer but if I do then use a push block and they don't come much better than a gripper.

The video is using a saw bench not a planer and the gripper is not the problem, the lack of a riving knife and crown guard is the issue here. This is a classic example of kick back and how quickly it does happen. 

Push sticks are not recommended to be used on a planer and best avoided, if the push stick comes in contact with the round cutter block on either a planer or spindle moulder this can cause kick back it self.

Cheers Peter


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## Peter Sefton (29 Jul 2015)

Jmac80":330t9ipu said:


> Just ordered 2 x micro-jig grr-rip blocks from wood workers workshop.
> The wife made me (and paid for one of them) after i showed her n0legs picture of his hand in this thread :lol: :lol: :twisted:
> 
> n0legs??? .... n0hands =D>
> ...




Thanks Jmac they will leaving us this afternoon.

Cheers Peter


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## Jacob (29 Jul 2015)

Peter Sefton":2p0gpqul said:


> .......
> The video is using a saw bench not a planer and the gripper is not the problem, the lack of a riving knife and crown guard is the issue here. This is a classic example of kick back and how quickly it does happen.


My point is is that the gripper is _very nearly_ the problem as his fingers are _very near_ the blade and he only just avoids a nasty cut. With push sticks you'd probably get the kickback much the same but with your fingers well out of the way


> Push sticks are not recommended to be used on a planer and best avoided, if the push stick comes in contact with the round cutter block on either a planer or spindle moulder this can cause kick back it self.
> 
> Cheers Peter


If push-stick comes into contact it just gets trimmed a bit. They are sacrificial, your fingers are not. I can't see how they'd cause kick back in themselves. I recommend them!

PS just had a look at http://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/epages ... cts/MJ_GB1
I think they are an expensive bad idea - an over complicated solution to a simple problem, in spite of "smart Gravity Heel technology" :lol: 
You are better off with push-sticks made from ply offcuts


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## Jmac80 (29 Jul 2015)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPIsTKpAoE4 

:lol:


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## PAC1 (29 Jul 2015)

Jacob what am I supposed to learn about push sticks on planers from a video of some Yank trying to cut his fingers off on video using a rip saw. It tells me a great deal about the Yank and why you do not use push blocks on a rip saw and what the #€$¥ is he doing with his hand beyond a running saw, but tells me nothing about push blocks on a planer. HSE say to use a push block if you must plane short pieces. Logically there must be more control of a short piece of material on a planer by using a push block rather than two push sticks especially if the bridge guard is properly set. Not that I plane short pieces on my planer.


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## Sgian Dubh (29 Jul 2015)

Jacob":3aqg9c7s said:


> PAC1":3aqg9c7s said:
> 
> 
> > Jacob, so if you were planing a 2.1m 115 x 75 door jamb you would use push sticks? If yes why is that better than using your hands? Same with say a 300mm x 25 panel?
> ...


I think I understand your methodology Jacob. I suppose the main things are that it's safe and it works for you. I admit I'm unlikely to emulate the technique. Slainte.


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## Jacob (29 Jul 2015)

PAC1":3k5shp09 said:


> Jacob what am I supposed to learn about push sticks on planers from a video of some Yank trying to cut his fingers off on video using a rip saw......


That push blocks leave your fingers close to the action (saw, planer, spindle, anything) and if something goes wrong maybe too close.


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## Claud1 (29 Jul 2015)

For years I didn't use push sticks or push blocks on my surface planer but for the last couple of years I would not use the surface planer without push blocks, I have just got into the habit of using them no matter what thickness the wood is.


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