# Router: Using a raised panel bit without a router table



## LBCarpentry (23 Jun 2020)

Everywhere online is saying it must be used in a router table. Has anyone used one over the top though. Only got two panels to router. I understand the dangers but is it an absolute no go? 

Router bits look to be around 75mm in diameter so a nice slow speed and steady hand I guess?


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## Blackswanwood (23 Jun 2020)

I’m not being flippant but there’s probably a good indication that you shouldn’t do it based on what everyone is saying online.


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## MikeG. (23 Jun 2020)

You're a carpenter/ joiner. You ought to have a router table. :wink:


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## Inspector (23 Jun 2020)

They don't recommend it for a reason. It is a huge bit that can easily get away from you and come back to bite. 

You can do it but you will want a router with a soft start and turned down as slow as it can go. The most important thing is to set the depth of cut to just take a little off with each pass especially for the last few passes where you are using the full bit. When I say a "little" I mean at least half a dozen passes. That many passes ups your exposure and risk, especially when that bearing is about to come off the end.

Making a quick router top out of a sheet of birch plywood with the router screwed to it and nailed to a couple sawhorses makes it infinitely safer than doing it by hand. A board held with a couple clamps serves as a fence.

Pete


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## LBCarpentry (23 Jun 2020)

MikeG.":1jppfcvv said:


> You're a carpenter/ joiner. You ought to have a router table. :wink:



an experienced one.....

so i binned it and got a spindle moulder... :lol: 

,,,its just that the spindle moulder is currently set up for another task :roll:


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## LBCarpentry (23 Jun 2020)

Inspector":3o0vj98c said:


> They don't recommend it for a reason. It is a huge bit that can easily get away from you and come back to bite.
> 
> You can do it but you will want a router with a soft start and turned down as slow as it can go. The most important thing is to set the depth of cut to just take a little off with each pass especially for the last few passes where you are using the full bit. When I say a "little" I mean at least half a dozen passes. That many passes ups your exposure and risk, especially when that bearing is about to come off the end.
> 
> ...



Nyers I was considering this. If over the top is a no go - and it seems like it is, then this is the next least tedious task :lol:


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## Eric The Viking (23 Jun 2020)

Do you own one of these? I do.

Should you use it freehand? Simply put, 

NO

I've just deleted the rest of my reply based on yours above. 

"I lost my fingers because the spindle moulder was set up for another job..." Seriously?


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## thetyreman (23 Jun 2020)

I would use a hand plane.


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## Trevanion (23 Jun 2020)

The long and short of it is in a solid router table if the cut for whatever reason bites it'll chuck the lightweight workpiece back, in a hand-held router with the workpiece clamped it'll chuck the router back with the large sharp thing spinning at over 100 times a second back at the operator.

This is a good example of routing gone wrong, granted it's climb-cutting on a palm router doing a job that's really too much load without handles, *Graphic Video Warning:* https://youtu.be/xseF_8mUIJg?t=261


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## doctor Bob (23 Jun 2020)

Trevanion":3il23x0d said:


> This is a good example of routing gone wrong, granted it's climb-cutting on a palm router doing a job that's really too much load without handles, *Graphic Video Warning:* https://youtu.be/xseF_8mUIJg?t=261



It is a good example of routing gone wrong. As you say though, totally different to what LBC wants to do, he knows what he's doing, the chap in the video is a wally.


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## Trevanion (23 Jun 2020)

I dunno Bob, I've certainly seen people that have been woodworking most of their lives still be complete wallies on occasion...

Didn't we have a guy who had over thirty years of experience advocate running timber over a surface planer with cast-iron weights on top? :lol:


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## doctor Bob (23 Jun 2020)

Trevanion":19o4taav said:


> Didn't we have a guy who had over thirty years of experience advocate running timber over a surface planer with cast-iron weights on top? :lol:



Stop it, I miss the old rogue ......... he was very adept and slippery as an eel in a discussion but at least the old boy discussed rather than got angry and shouty, at no point did it feel like he was unhinged unlike a few others  
I still don't think he did the above practice, I think he said it because he likes being unique and then couldn't back down so kept up the pretence.


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## LBCarpentry (23 Jun 2020)

thetyreman":fqd2w0mi said:


> I would use a hand plane.



Not on a tricoya panel you wouldn’t.

And if you would then your not using my plane  

it’s a resounding no, I get it. 

Big hole in ply it is (hammer)


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## Phil Pascoe (23 Jun 2020)

Not that I'm suggesting you do it without a table, but I suspect with a bit of thought/planning you could get rid of a load of waste with standard straight cutters first. I've use cutters before that have been recommended for use only in a table, it's been perfectly OK ....... but I've made sure there was absolutely nothing to distract or get in the way, and taken half a dozen or more passes.


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## thetyreman (23 Jun 2020)

LBCarpentry":36q2it42 said:


> thetyreman":36q2it42 said:
> 
> 
> > I would use a hand plane.
> ...



fair enough, I just presumed you were using solid woods, what about using a table saw? or is it too big for that?


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## toolsntat (23 Jun 2020)

Is there a theoretical reference to show this danger?
Because saying it shouldn't be done doesn't tell you why not to do it.
There is much said about a cutter "biting" and coming back on you.
What's it biting on if you're going forward in the correct manner.
High speeds and large circumference gives a scary gyroscopic effect but no one has mentioned if this is why.
Cheers Andy


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