# worktop kitchen sink hole



## caretaker (12 Feb 2008)

I have made all the kitchen units up so will be fixing them to the wall this weekend.
I have not got the worktop yet but am I correct in saying to cut out the sink hole I use the router for this, I have mislaid my jig saw.


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## George_N (12 Feb 2008)

Much quicker and easier with a jigsaw than a router. Put the worktop in its final position and lay the sink upside down where you want it to go. Mark round the sink with a pencil/marker pen (it might help to lay down some strips of masking tape so you can clearly see your lines), remove the sink and mark inside the outline by the amount you need for the sink to rest on. this is usually 12 - 25 mm, depending on the sink. Drill a hole at each corner just inside the lines and jigsaw out the waste. Be sure to support the waste piece as you cut because it is heavy. Even a cheap jigsaw will do the job. I did one recently with a cheapo "Ferm" jigsaw from Screwfix that cost about £15. If you go with a router you will need to make up a template and probably buy another 50 mm long 1/2" router bit because kitchen worktops eat router bits.


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## Paul Chapman (12 Feb 2008)

I would do it with a router. Some jigsaws will struggle to give a nice, 90 degree cut in a thick worktop or even to cut a straight line. Depending how close the sink is to the wall, you might have to do the cut out before you fit the work top.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## kevinr (12 Feb 2008)

To extend the life of the worktop you also need to seal the cut surface before fitting the sink. Its pretty common to use a layer of contact adhesive to do this as its fairly watertight and quick to dry. It also coats the uneven surface of the cut quite well. This is also recommended for any other exposed cut (eg. shaping to the wall at the rear or ends against walls). 

I believe others have used layers of varnish or paint but I'd expect to need multiple coats and a bit of time as its a rough cut surface.


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## WellsWood (12 Feb 2008)

kevinr":1hnrxpfd said:


> To extend the life of the worktop you also need to seal the cut surface before fitting the sink. Its pretty common to use a layer of contact adhesive to do this as its fairly watertight and quick to dry. It also coats the uneven surface of the cut quite well. This is also recommended for any other exposed cut (eg. shaping to the wall at the rear or ends against walls).
> 
> I believe others have used layers of varnish or paint but I'd expect to need multiple coats and a bit of time as its a rough cut surface.



Personally I usually use a good helping of silicon sealant, since it's always to hand on kitchen jobs anyway. Spread onto all cut surfaces nice and firmly with one of those plastic things you get with contact adhesive it does a grand job. If you haven't got a plastic spreader or similar put your hand in a plastic bag and use a finger - when you're done, just keep hold with your messy hand and turn the bag inside out leaving all the mess on the inside.
Sorted :wink:


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## chippy1970 (12 Feb 2008)

just rub silicone sealant on the edges thats what most people do and find your jigsaw and use it.

Routing out holes for sinks is too fussy I personally have never had a problem cutting out with a jigsaw, maybe if you used a DIY one then you might have problems. Lifes too short to waste routing holes when a jigsaw will do it in no time at all.

If cutting out for a Belfast sink then YES I do use a router because you do need a perfect edge.


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## Andy Pullen (12 Feb 2008)

Use masking tape because the jigsaw base can scratch the worktop and use downcutting blades with the pendulum off to stop the laminate being lifted up. Use one new blade each time and then chuck it, blunt blades are why jigsaws drift of the line. Masking tape makes pencil marks easy to see on dark worktops aswell.
Cheers Andy


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## caretaker (12 Feb 2008)

A jigsaw we go a hunting, I have a cheap o shop next to my works.
Will get some sealant as well.
Thanks for all the advise, I would be lost with out you lot.


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## Gary M (12 Feb 2008)

Hi Reg,
Just a few pointers for you,
If you must use a jigsaw be sure to have the proper type of blade.
Bosch T144DP are the right ones. They are thicker than normal,therefore helping keep the cut at 90 degrees.
Its generally not the machine but a flimsy blade that makes the cut wander. 
Sorry Andy but downcut blades are for cutting 7mm laminate flooring.
I only ever use a jigsaw to finish cuts into the corners of the sink cut out.
Be very carefull drilling holes at the corners, as the laminate surface has a mind of its own and can blow out quite easily, again i dont do this.

Right heres what i do,
Place the sink where you want it, mask off around the sink so you can mark the tape and see it clearly.
I then use a circular saw with a 40 tooth blade to cut through the worktop.
If your saw has a riving guard, you will need to remove it for this And be very carefull, 
or if you have a festool saw your laughing.
Line up the saw blade to the marked line and slowly and carefully plunge the saw through the worktop.
Cut along the line , remove the saw and do the same for all four sides.
Then take your jigsaw and cut the last bits into each corner,supporting the cutout so it doesnt fall out.
Perfect 90 degree cuts every time
:wink: 
Then apply silicone sealant to the exposed edges.
HTH 
Gary.


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## Pecker (12 Feb 2008)

I have fitted hundreds, literally hundreds, of sinks and have never ever had the need to use anything but a jigsaw, with decent blades. Doesnt have to be a decent jigsaw (though it helps) but the blades make a real difference. cheapo blades are liable to bend and drift.

Read the instructions that come with the sink, usually the inset is about 12mm from the edge.

Downcut blades are indeed generally only used for laminate at about 7mm, but they can with care be used for other uses. But to be honest if you allow at least 10mm from the edge of the sink, there is no real reason to use them. 
Whilst I personally would not use a circular saw, if you do, do remember to cut from the underside not the face.
1 minor tip. Since you have to drill a hole for the jigsaw to go through, if you make that hole in a corner, it's one last corner you have to cut round.
When your cutting loads of sink cutouts in one day you learn to use the least machines and creating one hole in a corner also saves time!

woody


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## Slim (12 Feb 2008)

Pecker":qaa33wmf said:


> Read the instructions that come with the sink,



Don't be daft, reading instructions is a sign of weakness! :wink:


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## Andy Pullen (12 Feb 2008)

Gary M":26z9rbak said:


> Hi Reg,
> Just a few pointers for you,
> If you must use a jigsaw be sure to have the proper type of blade.
> Bosch T144DP are the right ones. They are thicker than normal,therefore helping keep the cut at 90 degrees.
> ...



"Sorry Andy"? I've been using downcutting jigsaw blades to cut sinks into worktops for donkeys years with excellent results.
YMMV, but don't tell me i've been doing it wrong all these years. :shock:

That said I have learned a lot myself off this forum, quite surprised sometimes.


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## chippy1970 (13 Feb 2008)

I dont use downcut blades either just the normal Bosch blades (cant remember the number).

Most sinks have good coverage so even if it did chip slightly it would still cover. Only time I use downcut blades is when I am scribing end panels to walls when you need a good edge even then I don't always do that I just cut from the back.

Everyone has a different method the world would be boring otherwise :lol:

I bought a Festool TS55 saw last year but all the kitchens I have done since have had granite tops so I have not had a chance to use it to cut out a sink hole yet but I am sure it will be the way to go from now on.


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## Oryxdesign (13 Feb 2008)

Downcut blades are such a pain I find it easier to either turn the work over or turn the jigsaw upside down and use it underneath.


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