# Earlex Pro HV 5000 - The result



## Mcluma (13 Aug 2012)

Spraying with the Earlex Pro HV5000

I have had now 2 days of spraying with the Earlex Pro HV 5000, in total around 4 hours

2 hour base coat

2 hours finish coat

This includes spraying / mixing and setting up time

Last week I bought the Earlex Pro HV 5000 to help me speed things up with finishing the amount of door trims and skirting boards

100m of skirting
110m of door trim 

So far I have sprayed around 50m of door trim

First impression

This thing should come with an age restriction, why because it makes spraying a child’s play, and spraying is not for children

Honestly, it’s simple; there is only one button to be uses which regulates how much paint you spray.

I left Friday a bit earlier from work to start using the sprayer; this is the first time ever for me so I had a bit of a learning curve. I set everything up in my temporarily spray booth and brought the tin of undercoat out

What this coat is oil-based!!! – I was hoping for the simple water based paint.

Well if this is the paint the wife wants, she will get it. So out with the thinner and the measure cup and just count the seconds till you got it right – between 45 and 50 seconds it says
Little tip 1) when pouring in the thinner – pour it through the measuring cup so it cleans it out to make sure you have an accurate reading
Little tip 2) when mixing up the paint, use a small bucket or something as to not mix it up in the spray paint can, as the opening is a bit on the small side to get the measuring cup in it

Pour the paint in the spray cup and you are ready to spray, take a bit of cardboard to set up the amount of paint you want to spray the only knob on the unit 

Little tip 3) the less paint you spray the nicer it goes

Little tip 4) On more professional units you can adjust the spray cone to limit the amount of overspray – on this unit you cannot do that – so make sure everything is well covered up, as there is a HUDGE amount of overspray – or I just did it wrong

Little tip 5) the machine is not noisy, but It is just like sitting next to the Hoover. So if you are like me and do not like the sound of the Hoover, where hearing protection

I noticed because of the paint intake in the can you can hold the unit almost horizontal. So you can spray in almost any position or direction

Little tip 6) set the work up so its comfortable to work, the unit is not heavy when the paint is in it, but if you like me have to paint a lot, its sill a strain on your back, so get the work on a good working height

Little tip 7) you need to use a respirator, the paint is to thin and floats in the air, you will breath it – so no shortcuts here – a respirator is a must

Little tip 8) it’s still messy. If you spray a lot there is a lot of overspray you have a lot of paint on your set-up, so where gloves – I recommend the gloves from Costco – they are very comfortable – almost like second skin

It goes fast – really fast – no you cannot compare it with a paint brush – the finish is superb – and you get in all little corners or grooves – but you can see also all imperfections, so you need to prepare the wood much better then you would do with a brush

Its simple – if you mix the paint perfectly – which is simple – your result will be good – there is no chance of getting it wrong – its not possible – it simple 

It makes spraying so simple –you wonder why you have not done it sooner

The clean up
Little tip 9) if you are finished put some thinner in the cup and spray it to clean the inside (makes cleaning simple)

Oil based paints are not simple to clean, so you spend most of the time cleaning the equipment, that took me in both cases around 40 minutes – this is probably less if you spray water based paints as you can used put the unit in the dishwasher - if only

The unit

The Earlex 5000




Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr


Here some stuff that needs to be painted




Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr

I use the soak away trays as my temporary workbench, as well for drying as well as for spraying




Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr

The result after putting on the base coat




Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr

And stored overnight




Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr

Quick sand down in the morning and ready for the finish coat




Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr




Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr




Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr

And the mess after the job was done – just make sure you have everything covered, as there is a lot of overspray




Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr


I hope this is helpful to anybody


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## SeanJ (14 Aug 2012)

Yeah big up the Earlex Pro HV5000 (as they say!). I just done a commercial finishing job with one on a couple of bar installations. I've even done a piano finish with my'n many times, though getting a good flow coat with every material can be challenging with the basic gun controls, you often end up adjusting the material mixes. They 're great units for the money, i bought 2 extra guns for my'n over the years for paint/lacquer/ and whatever. 

One tip if your intersted: I suffered from little 'bits' in the finish (pinhead and larger sized) for longer than i care to remember as the air filter system on the turbine unit (a piece of foam on the underneath) is basic - I'd get some fine fabric mesh material (ie: tights or similar) and place a piece where you push the airline into the gun, it works a treat. I never noticed the issue much with paint (probably putting it down to impurities) but with the clear lacquers it's more apparent, esp full grain finishes, a plastic mesh filter inside the cup is a must too obviously.

Sean


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## Mcluma (14 Aug 2012)

Sean,

for the lacquers, are you still using the same 2.0 spray tip,

I will be spraying an awfull lot of white stuff, do i really need to clean the whole unit inbetween sprays, or is just running some thinner through enough and leave it till the next time

the cleaning of the gun takes so long

Chris


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## SeanJ (15 Aug 2012)

Hi, no i also use a 1mm tip for smaller atomisation for the lacquers, though you can get away with the 2 if you need to. Regarding cleaning the way I've now adopted is to get hold of some cheap B grade thinners (my is morrels gunwash) for about £10 for 5 litres and fire it through the gun at the end of the day, using about 1/2 a cup, then take out the pin and the horn cap off and leave it in the cup with thinners in it. I'll usually wait until the end of the job (unless the gun is not perfoming well) and i'll submerge the gun in the tin of thinners (cut the top of the tin off to form a flap lid), i take off the plastic air tube and the gasket as they can perish. also unscrew the long cup feed tube too. Then the next day just brush it with the cleaning kit, a good thin brush is needed to push through the long feed tube, that can be a struggle with the brush they give you for that, and obviously use the small ones for the gun body at the top. Put it back together and fire the thinners through and the gun. Then it's usually good for another week/job or whatever. Primer is the one to watch, gets a bit cakey. 

hope that helps. Sean


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## Dibs-h (29 Aug 2012)

Chris

Regards the overspray - something's amiss mate. I have the more basic Earlex model and an Apollo 700. I've sprayed WB thur both and got little to no overspray. I've run oil based thru the Apollo and again little to no overspray.

I did the door on my shed with Sikkens oil based (primer and top coat) with the Apollo and didn't cover stuff up. Just made sure everything was more than 3 feet away (just so I didn't bump into it, going round the door).  

May sound daft - but you are releasing the trigger at the end of every pass and re-engaging it just prior to the start of every pass? And changing the fan to suit the shape of what you are spraying?

Oil based - I never had an issue with clean up. Just ran some thinners (meths, white spirit, etc) thru it for no more than a minute. Also - I usually leave some in the cup and then empty that out a day or so later. When cleaning out WB - I'll spray water thru it into a bucket or something.

With oil based - I'll spray the thinners into a small necked bottle, just to minimise the atomisation into the air. 

Worth buying some paint strainers\filters,

http://www.starchem.co.uk/products/paint.htm the conical paper type ones are fine.

Also I'd get some disposable plastic mixing cups,

http://www.starchem.co.uk/products/paintcup.htm Nbr 8 in the diagram.

Most car paints suppliers (Auto paint type places have them in stock). Makes life so much easier with the graduations and once you know how much you have to thin it by (% wise), no need to keep putting it thru the viscosity cup.

Also worth getting a mixing stick,

http://auto-paint.co.uk/carpaint/index. ... ductId=203

Bit like a 12" metal ruler - wipes clean too.

Unfortunately the Earlex doesn't take the 3M PPS system which makes life so much easier as you can spray at any angle, even upside down and detach the paint and it will keep.

HIH

Dibs


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## [email protected] (29 Aug 2012)

this is an HVLP machine? I'm guessing it is as apollo is mentioned! I thouight a feature of these guns was minimal overspray? I may be looking to buy one of these so will check them out....


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## Dibs-h (30 Aug 2012)

[email protected]":jr1fvrwa said:


> this is an HVLP machine? I'm guessing it is as apollo is mentioned! I thouight a feature of these guns was minimal overspray? I may be looking to buy one of these so will check them out....



Matt

Chris is using a HVLP gun\turbine. His is the Earlex 5000. I have the Apollo (also HVLP\Turbine). My own experience of HVLP turbines is that there is minimal overspray - hence the questions to Chris on his spraying technique.

HIH

Dibs


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## Mcluma (30 Aug 2012)

I did use the sprayer again and i get better and better at it, mixing and cleaning did go a lot quicker this time. 

When i meant the overspray it is when spraying just the 7cm wide trim work. when spraying the complete 15cm doorframes the overspray is indeed minimal

I like the unit more and more, just because you cannot do anything wrong with it. its just point and shoot

I do have the strainers, but still not used.

next up will be spraying varnis


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## Dibs-h (30 Aug 2012)

Mcluma":14etbj4c said:


> I did use the sprayer again and i get better and better at it, mixing and cleaning did go a lot quicker this time.
> 
> When i meant the overspray it is when spraying just the 7cm wide trim work. when spraying the complete 15cm doorframes the overspray is indeed minimal
> 
> ...



Use the strainers - you don't half get the hump when the gun spits some rubbish out right in the middle of a piece that you have almost finished spraying. DAMHIKT! :wink: 

Also - every now and then worth wiping the tip as paint can dry there, and fly onto the work - I assume the gun is a "bleed" gun - i.e. air is always coming out of it, even when not painting. If it is a non-bleed gun, then probably no need.

Glad that you are enjoying it! 

Dibs


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## Mcluma (31 Aug 2012)

Its indeed a bleed gun

I did some varnish yesterday evening and that goes on sooooooo smooth. much thinner then by brush , but so much flatter.

and it actually uses so much less paint then by brush.

And yes this time i used the strainer

Another thumbs up from me for the sprayer

I have not used it yet to spray a stain. that will be next


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## twothumbs (31 Aug 2012)

I would like to congratulate everyone so far on a very good thread. Invaluable assistance here for so many. Keep it up guys. I may well be asking a few questions of you all. Best wsihes.


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## oakfield (6 Sep 2012)

Mcluma":16kkg6fr said:


> Little tip 4) On more professional units you can adjust the spray cone to limit the amount of overspray – on this unit you cannot do that – so make sure everything is well covered up, as there is a HUDGE amount of overspray – or I just did it wrong



I think you can adjust the fan size. If you unscrew the knurled collar that holds the nozzle on it reduces the size of the spray pattern.


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## Mcluma (7 Sep 2012)

You can do that indeed, i did use that trick the other day and it works fine


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## matthew (24 Sep 2012)

Sounds like this spray unit is going well for you! Sort of hijacking this thread - sorry - I'm planning to make some MDF kitchen cabinet doors and weighing up whether to send them out to get sprayed or doing them myself. Sending them out is about £1k (IMHO not too bad for what's involved), so the price of an HV500 and whatever primers/paints I'd need is doable.

However, I'm a complete novice at spraying - hence encouraged to learn how easy it is to use - do you think I can get a smooth enough finish to compare with what a pro spray shop would do? I'm not after a high gloss, but a satin with a little sheen - and hardwearing enough for kitchen use. Would it need a lacquer after the paint?


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## Dibs-h (25 Sep 2012)

matthew":2jcy07zg said:


> but a satin with a little sheen -


Absolutely. A little bit of practice and you should be off & away!



matthew":2jcy07zg said:


> and hardwearing enough for kitchen use.


This would depend on the paint itself - I'm sure folk here would recommend something - Morrell's probably do something suitable. You would probably be better sticking to Water Based tho.

HIH

Dibs

p.s. I think someone has upgraded their Earlex 5000 to a Fuji and might be selling it. :wink:


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## matthew (25 Sep 2012)

Dibs-h":2f4f8ygr said:


> Absolutely. A little bit of practice and you should be off & away!



Excellent - encouraging words - if it's at all possible then I'm usually willing to have a go. I notice there are different needle sizes - do I need a finer one for a smoother finish? Or will the stock one (2mm, I think?) do it?

Not sure when I'm getting round to this - will probably wait until nearer the time to buy - but will keep an eye out for any for sale


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## Dibs-h (26 Sep 2012)

matthew":mb1o5jm7 said:


> Dibs-h":mb1o5jm7 said:
> 
> 
> > Absolutely. A little bit of practice and you should be off & away!
> ...



Flanajab might be selling one - fuji-xpc-mini-mite-3-100-new-on-ebay-t64056-15.html

half way down page 2 - £75 or something spring to mind, which if he's still selling is a cracking price! :wink: At that price - if it didn't work out, you wouldn't have lost anything.

Dibs


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## flanajb (29 Sep 2012)

Oops. Should mark that as sold!

Spraying is a revelation and I encourage anyone who stills finishes by hand to get into it! You save so much time and can get a cracking finish on your furniture. I still ask myself now why I took so long getting a sprayer

Glad it worked out for you


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## matthew (3 Oct 2012)

flanajb":2l4p6rl3 said:


> Spraying is a revelation and I encourage anyone who stills finishes by hand to get into it! You save so much time and can get a cracking finish on your furniture. I still ask myself now why I took so long getting a sprayer



Thank you for another encouraging reply! Am feeling more confident and pretty much decided to do it now


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## MrYorke (10 Oct 2012)

Get the new earlex 4500. Got mine in toolstation for just under £150

Not sure what improvements there are over the 5000, but think the motor is a fraction more powerful and the length of tube has a thin rubberised coating. 

Much improved over my previous cheap earlex!


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## matthew (10 Oct 2012)

MrYorke":24q86430 said:


> Get the new earlex 4500. Got mine in toolstation for just under £150
> 
> Not sure what improvements there are over the 5000, but think the motor is a fraction more powerful and the length of tube has a thin rubberised coating.
> 
> Much improved over my previous cheap earlex!



Thanks for the tip - looks like a good deal. I see there's also a new HV5500 - the only practical difference between it and the 4500 seeming to be the supplied needle size (2mm with 5500, 1.5mm with 4500) and the 5500 being teflon lined. Do/should I care about either of these?


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## Mcluma (11 Oct 2012)

Teflon coated is a must


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