# Multico NTH300 blade setting jig



## Higon (3 Jan 2015)

I've recently got one of these beasts, finally got it hooked up and found there's a nick in the blades. thankfully it came with some spare blades, but not the jig for setting them. (The multico part number is NTH 2025) It's also missing the roller setting gauge (SP1230), other than that it seems to be in really good condition and runs well.

I understand that Multico are no longer around, so a bit of a long shot but does anyone have either of these gauges, or the details of the dimensions for them? (I've searched online and think the blades need to be set 1.4mm above the 90mm drum). 

If all else fails then I might well have to dust off some geometry books and work out what the dimensions of the jig should be but its been so long since I did any of that, I'm not sure I'd trust any answer I calculate!! 

EDIT;
Having been unable to find a jig, I made one. The drawings are at the bottom of this thread. Non euclidean geometry wasn't required after all, CAD did all the fancy footwork and made it really easy.


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## beech1948 (4 Jan 2015)

Higon,

There are a few different ways to set up a planer/thicknesser.

The best thing to do is to go have a look at Youtube. The techniques are :-

1) Blade setting jig:: NOT favoured by many as most setting jigs seem to be inaccurate

2) Piece of wood jig: A piece of wood say 25mm wide and say 50mm high is rested on the outfeed table and the blade set to underside of the wood. Rotate the blades slowly by hand so one blade passes under the wood. IF the wood moves to the right by about 2 mm max for the one rotation then you are on the money. Try this out on at least 2 different sections of blade

3) Use a dial guage mounted on the outfeed table to set blades to be the same height as the outfeed. Can be fiddly and tricky but practice makes perfect.

I'm assuming you are using normal blades with at least 2 in the block. 

So go and have a search of Youtube.

Al


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## Higon (4 Jan 2015)

Al that is most kind, 

I tried setting it by eye then checking with 3 dial gauges using the drum as the datum... got to within 2 thou on 2 of the blades, 5 thou on the other blade.. probably acceptable, but I think I can get it better! 

Don't know what types of jig are normally used, I envisaged clamping a couple of blocks together then machining them together so they are all the same... (with the correct dimensions....) then another piece holding them the right distance apart.

I like method 2, 

I did try running a piece ( of about those dimensions) though on one side of the planer, then with everything the same, run it through the other side... chips flying means its out and the difference between the thickness of run one and run 2 is the amount. 

Hadn't thought of youtube! heading there next.


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## beech1948 (4 Jan 2015)

Many of us , including me, use the piece of wood approach. You should be able to get within a couple of thou using it.

Best of all its simple and cheap.

Don't forget that you need to check as you tighten down the gibs and after as well because the blades can be moved in small increments as you tighten up. If this happens then you need to be able to reduce the blade projection by a few thou and then try again.

Good luck and enjoy


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## Higon (8 Jan 2015)

For the benefit of any future searchers on this topic, here's the rest of the info.

The jig was surprisingly easy to use, setting all three blades and checking with the dial indicator took about 15 minutes. After setting, the dial indicator was used to check the heights at left, centre and right positions on all three blades. The results were all within 1 thou. Its easy to check if the blades are out or have moved after tightening as the jig will 'rock'. test pieces of hardwood gave nice wide shavings and the finish was much better.


The drawing should be nearby, two were made joined by a sturdy piece of 5mm square bar drilled and bolted to the jig. The distance between the two elements of the jig is about 9 inches, (228 mm) that ensures that the jig doesn't interfere with the locking nuts. You can hold it down with one hand and tighten the nuts with the other hand. There is a cowl that can be used to assist in the process. Rotating the drum with the jig in place, until it touches the cowl helps hold it steady in the X and Y axis, the downward pressure applied gives the Z. 








..and the finished jig in place here, the right hand edge of the jig is in contact with the cowl.


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