# What to look for in a Lathe (for a beginner)



## Dibs-h (23 Nov 2009)

Wondering round Harrogate for the last several yrs and soon to be moving into my workshop - thoughts have turned to turning.

What should one look for in a lathe for a beginner - if I get on well, then one could upgrade, so I'm not looking for the "final" machine.

Are there any machines that one should stay away from? In all probability, it'll end up being a used machine as opposed to a new one..


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## wizer (23 Nov 2009)

What work will you be doing?

Mainly bowls, platters, decorative wall plaques OR mainly spindles, knobs, handles, furniture parts

Or a bit of both?


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## Dibs-h (23 Nov 2009)

wizer":6yew5eze said:


> What work will you be doing?
> 
> Mainly bowls, platters, decorative wall plaques OR mainly spindles, knobs, handles, furniture parts
> 
> Or a bit of both?



Bowls\platters & spindles\lamps - if that makes sense. Decorative wall plaques unlikely and knobs rarely if that.


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## wizer (23 Nov 2009)

ok so you need a multi purpose lathe. Something with a bit of capacity for larger diameter work. Budget is the next question. What do you want to spend?? Like all machinery, you get what you pay for.


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## Dibs-h (23 Nov 2009)

wizer":2ln0ajyz said:


> ok so you need a multi purpose lathe. Something with a bit of capacity for larger diameter work. Budget is the next question. What do you want to spend?? Like all machinery, you get what you pay for.



Probably as little as poss. :wink: 

I'm looking at something that will be replaced (if I get on well) or just stay and get used for the odd piece when required. I don't really want to buy new - so probably used off the Bay or from a fellow forumite. 

I appreciate it's not much of a numerical answer - but I've seen used m\c's advertised (someone's coronet) for around £150 or thereabouts. That might be a starting figure for a used machine.


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## Bodrighy (23 Nov 2009)

Hi,

Look for 2nd hand records, or their predecessors. Coronets. Tyme lathes are good solid lathes as well and often go cheaper. They all tend to keep their price reasonably well and are good solid all round workhorses.

Pete


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## Dibs-h (23 Nov 2009)

What sort of speeds (min or max) should one make sure it has? I appreciate the bed length and dia over the bed relate to the max sizes of work that can be done. What about headstock\tail stock threads\tapers, etc. - i.e. any particular ones to stay away from?


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## Bodrighy (23 Nov 2009)

Speeds from 400 - 2000 are the most common. The basic lathes I mentioned earlier are usually 4 speed and though it's nice to have electronic variable speed, those 4 are sufficient for most tasks you are likely to do 

Headstock and tails stock morse are the same (as far as I know and are usually either 1 or 2. Records and Coronets are 1 , can't remember the thread size. Pretty easy to get hold of though. Performs are morse 2 and 1 x 8 thread. This is also fairly common thread. Only gets funny with thingas like the Tyme which is morse 2 and an odd thread though you can get the inserts for chucks easily enough. Beware of any lathe with a peculiar thread, check you can get the chuck inserts for it.

Pete


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## Paul.J (23 Nov 2009)

Variable speed is great.Once you use it you won't go back.
Be careful with the minimum speed on the types of lathes mentioned(500rpm) as it will be too fast for out of balance/larger pieces.So a slower speed does come in useful.
Also look out for tool rests etc that lock with a nut.Bristol levers are better.
Make sure the cross slide moves easily.


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## Bodrighy (23 Nov 2009)

Paul.J":1w0pkelf said:


> Variable speed is great.Once you use it you won't go back.
> Be careful with the minimum speed on the types of lathes mentioned(500rpm) as it will be too fast for out of balance/larger pieces.So a slower speed does come in useful.
> Also look out for tool rests etc that lock with a nut.Bristol levers are better.
> Make sure the cross slide moves easil.



I did, much prefer the solidity of the belt change to the lever type speed change which I found got clagged up all the time. I think the records and coronets all go from 400 and being pretty solid lathes can be used for off balance work though obviously nothing like your Vicmarc or Georges VB. 

Pete


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## OldWood (23 Nov 2009)

Whatever you buy do try to get a look at it first - or a similar machine that someone else has. 

I've been on the metal roundside since childhood and was all too pleased to find that the wood lathe I got recently (without looking at it!!) was as easy to use as the metal one. You do need to have easy access for belt changes and even more for moving the toolrest. I've also seen lathes with a bolt for the back centre, which would be liveable with but undesirable. You want to be able to turn, not spend half your time setting up the adjustments. 

OW


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## Dibs-h (24 Nov 2009)

Are Clark lathes worth looking at? Or best stay away?


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## Vulthoom (24 Nov 2009)

Howdy all,

I've been away from turning for a few months - recovering
from a non-lathe related hand injury... but I'm back now!

I bought a Draper WTL95 as my first lathe. I've had it for over a year now and
I am very pleased with it. 

It has a solid cast bed and variable speed (so no belt changing to change speed). You can turn
about 16" over the bed and the headstock swivels for larger work.
Its cetainly not a monster at 3/4 HP but does most of what I need 
(but that doesn't stop me dreaming of a VB36....).

I believe it is sold under a few different brand (Perform? Clarke? Not sure) rather like
an Axminster 950 with a bigger motor I think.
I got mine secondhand for a bargain £150 with a shedload of tools thrown in.

Don't forget to budget for a decent chuck - you can turn without one but
it makes life so much easier.








The bed is longer than it looks - there's more of it off the side of the picture under the bag of gravel.


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## Dibs-h (2 Dec 2009)

Got one: Local'ish and very cheap. Nu-Tool model NWL37 - identical it seems to the Clarke 37". Came with

1 x spur centre
2 x ball bearing tail stock centres
1 x 12" tool rest
1 x 6" tool rest
1 x shaped bowl rest
1 x 6" faceplate
1 x 4" faceplate
1 x sanding table complete with adjustable angle fence and 9 " sanding disk plate.
1 x 4 jaw adjusting chuck
1 x jacobs chuck

All for £66. The chap had bought it new yonks ago and just replaced it with a used Union Graduate. Still in the boot of the car. Will be looking for some cheapo HSS chisels on the Bay - as per someone's advise on here. Then move onto some better ones later, once I've destroyed the cheap ones on the grinder. :wink:

Will no doubt be asking some right novice questions in the weeks to come.

Cheers

Dibs


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## OldWood (2 Dec 2009)

Dibs
I'm only a few months ahead of you on the learning curve and this is my pennyworth.

There are an awful lot of people who buy turning gear as, say, a retirement project, and give up shortly afterwards because they just don't know how to do it and how to sharpen tools. Tools off Ebay are either brand new or appallingly sharpened, and the blunt tool is the immediate switch off as it just won't cut! |And, er, cutting is what you want to do.

You can get a lot from books, but try and find a club locally - they'll always welcome new members and be all too helpful in instruction, sources of materials and so on. 

Both my lathe and my tools came through Ebay, and I suspect that both previous owners had attempted to teach themselves, and had given up! 

Come back if you want a couple of books recommended.

OW


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## Bodrighy (2 Dec 2009)

Sounds like a bargain at that price and all the gear. \Certainly enough to get you up and running. You have all the equipment you need for face plate work (bowls, platters etc) and spindle work ( all the rest) Might be an idea to lash out and get Keth Rowleys book ,Woodturning: A Foundation Course. There's some copies going for a fiver on Amazon at the moment. Go through that and you will get to grips with most of the basics

Pete


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## wizer (2 Dec 2009)

Dibs, Axi's Perform range of turning tools are good to get started.


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## hog&amp;bodge (2 Dec 2009)

There is a set on ebay now...
280430993635
30 od notes...got pick up only...


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## OldWood (2 Dec 2009)

Dibs
Do not be put off by the turners who say that you only need 6 tools - OK you can go to the other extreme, and the professionals may well only use 6, fewer to carry when demonstrating and fewer to mess around with when you're turning out hundreds of widgets.

Again there will be the naysayers, but I've collected several gouges of the same size, etc, and tend to use them in sequence and then have a sharpening session when they are all sharpened to the same setting. Parting off tools come in all shape and sizes.

OW


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## hog&amp;bodge (2 Dec 2009)

The more the merrier for me...
never have enough turning chisels.... :lol:


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