# Scottish Infill Smoother Restoration



## jimi43 (27 Sep 2012)

Hello fellow whittlers.....

As the next phase of the UKW infill project....namely the actual woodie bits...approaches, I thought it might be a good idea if I practised on a less important one first...just to get my hands refined again....

It's been a while since I last did any infill.

So...I searched around my favourite auction site for some candidates where upon I found this advertised as "Buy-it-Now" for £40....







The auction had this good photograph....every angle to make a decision to buy...and a fairly accurate description to confirm the risk was small...particularly the lack of damage to the main casting.

As can be seen...the infills are so bad that there would be no question of destroying "originality"...something I always end up juggling with.....






The front handle is badly made out of softwood...it doesn't even fit let alone have the stuffing correctly over the casting...and the rear handle made of oak looks to be user-made too...and not particularly well but probably original....






This was made of three parts...one horribly shaped centre handle and two nicely made wings...all screwed together with four brass screws inside....(in the wrong places as will be seen!)

But firstly and most importantly.....the screws came out (phew) and secondly how beautiful is that gunmetal lever cap casting!!!

But before doing anything....I found a screw and an iron...just to test out the smoother on some wood...






....and even though it doesn't look particularly pretty with this oversized knob (correct thread) and Sorby iron/cap iron fitted...it cut beautifully right out of the box!

But check out the angle the lever cap sets to!!






....and this is why....






A bit of over-zealous tightening there in the past methinks or have I missed something here?






Gunmetal is fairly soft...but I have had no experience in straightening it...so does anyone have any idea if this will go back cold or will this need heating to straighten it? Richard? I think I might need your advice here!

So...with all the screws removed...the infills simply lift out, along with decades of old sawdust to reveal a very clean and crack free casting indeed!






The old infills will act as a fairly rough template...handy for the overstuffing particularly but on both sides the rear fixing screws for the body actually line up with the brass screws holding the wings together...so run alongside them! The fact that the inside ones are brass probably made it easier to get the screws out...quite by luck!






...but the front one is straight in the bin....






I fear it was a "temporary" fix for the original which ended up being more permanent that was planned!

This is small enough for burr oak offcuts to be used....so it will make a great test bed for Richard's panel project...and a great partner afterwards!

More later

Jimi


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## bugbear (27 Sep 2012)

jimi43":2i0c8kyb said:


> I fear it was a "temporary" fix for the original which ended up being more permanent that was planned!



http://swingleydev.com/archive/get.php? ... 83#message

(2003!! Doesn't time fly...)

BugBear


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## Cheshirechappie (27 Sep 2012)

I might be all wrong with this, but does the lever cap have to be something like that shape in order to clear the cap-iron nut reliably?

To bend a casting that much (if it is bent) would need more force than could be applied by a puny lever cap screw turned by even a strong-fingered user; you'd need a stillson or similar on the capscrew, at least. Bending would also show distress marks on the surface of the casting, and I don't see any evidence for such in the pictures.

I'd leave well alone, I think.


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## AndyT (27 Sep 2012)

I agree with CC that it seems unlikely to have been bent in use, but I have never seen one that shape.

Maybe the original combination of cutting iron and cap iron was thicker than normal. (There could have been a very thick cutting iron or a bigger than usual hump on the cap iron, or both.) That would have had the effect of moving the bottom edge of the lever cap towards the front of the plane, bringing the upper part more nearly parallel to the cutting iron.

So, what if you reverse all that - undo the screw a bit, so the top of the cap iron is nearly parallel to the cutting iron (which would put the screw at something closer to a right-angle to the cutting iron's surface.) How much space does that leave you down at the plane's mouth? 

I expect you have plenty of old irons and cap irons to experiment with, but if you need any more, so say; I may have a spare or two somewhere...


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## jimi43 (27 Sep 2012)

I know...I thought it would be a stretch to bend it too but even using that I.Sorby iron with a thick cap iron only gets it to where it is now...and that only just clears the mouth...just...

I will have to play around with the geometry to see what works without bending it back straight to see...also do a bit more research later...

I received the gauge steel today...3/16", 5/32 and 3mm (they didn't have 1/8")....so I can make some irons and caps and see what works best.

Got to go to work now sadly...again!!

Cheers

Jim


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## Paul Chapman (27 Sep 2012)

I reckon that lever cap was from a different plane :-k Why not make a new one?

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## jimi43 (27 Sep 2012)

Paul Chapman":a49x9s5p said:


> I reckon that lever cap was from a different plane :-k Why not make a new one?
> 
> Cheers :wink:
> 
> Paul



HA! Nice one Paul...this is like one never-ending nightmare! :mrgreen: 

I'll have a think about it when I've had a tinker...I think I will begin by making two sets of irons and cap irons for both this and and the panel plane and then work from there...I need them anyway now for all sorts of measurements.

Cheers

Jim


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## matthewwh (28 Sep 2012)

Any chance that the lever cap was pilfered from a plane with a higher cutting angle?

Since you are changing the wood anyway you could compensate for it there, use the existing lever cap unaltered, and end up with a high angle smoother.


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## jimi43 (28 Sep 2012)

matthewwh":38yh81qw said:


> Any chance that the lever cap was pilfered from a plane with a higher cutting angle?
> 
> Since you are changing the wood anyway you could compensate for it there, use the existing lever cap unaltered, and end up with a high angle smoother.



I'm not sure that would work Matthew...if you adjust the top part of a straight iron to a higher angle the bottom automatically moves back doesn't it?

A tapered iron would make the error less...perhaps that is what was originally used but since that is a fairly acutely tapered iron I am using to test...I don't think that would be a solution either.

I can see stress rings in this shot...






...just to the rear of the main body where it joins the stem...but that may be a red herring.

Say I wanted to make it straight again...would heating it locally to red heat at the transition and then gently hitting it straight work?

Jim


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## Richard T (28 Sep 2012)

When I first saw this plane in the other thread, I thought that the angle of the wood had been changed ... possibly the infiller had thought that he wanted a higher angle, made the wood to fit, then found the frog was steeper, so inserted a wedge to compensate. ??? 

Re the lever; I would not try to bend it cold, nor would I get it too hot. A rosy glow under a blow lamp should be easily enough (in the neck) to persuade it. We don't know what it is so we don't want to melt it. Just in the vice, got hot enough to bend with gentle taps should do. With the bend reversed it should be a user. And other wise, what Matthew says.

Too drunk now to contribute properly - drat Hotels.


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## matthewwh (28 Sep 2012)

jimi43":hth6kun8 said:


> I'm not sure that would work Matthew...if you adjust the top part of a straight iron to a higher angle the bottom automatically moves back doesn't it?



Depends where the pivot point is, in this case the cutting edge kinda has to be where it is, so the bottom portion of the iron would move forward too. It does look like one helluva bend though...even if you can only flatten it out a bit it would surely help.


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## GazPal (28 Sep 2012)

Nice find Jim  

I've an infill smoother who's lever cap is profiled in precisely the same manner and think the kick relates to the plane being made to accept parallel irons, whilst remaining perfectly capable of seeing use with tapered irons.


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## jimi43 (28 Sep 2012)

Although RichardT is not precisely correct...I think you have something mate....

Taking your suggestion and then looking at the infill...I believe that has been cut down.

And the reason I believe this is it would need to be a VERY thin cap iron screw to fit in the channel...mine doesn't even come close....and they tended to be chunkier than even the one I have used as a test so I think the whole thing has been reworked...which is no problem....I will just do some test fills to see what angle suits and go from there.

I would rather not try to bend the lever cap if it isn't meant to be bent....mmmm

Yes Gazza...it sure was a bargain...and what a lovely looking sole casting...the important bit after all...!

Jim


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## Richard T (29 Sep 2012)

Looking again ..... There is tremendous compression evidence on the underside of the pivot holes. Is the underside of the lever hollow? Could it possibly have been bent in use after all - or was it made like that to clear the cap iron thread lump and has been over tightened in use to compensate ...


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## jimi43 (29 Sep 2012)

Richard T":2ntopm4z said:


> Looking again ..... There is tremendous compression evidence on the underside of the pivot holes. Is the underside of the lever hollow? Could it possibly have been bent in use after all - or was it made like that to clear the cap iron thread lump and has been over tightened in use to compensate ...



There is Richard...and there are crinkles between the body and the neck indicating bending forces.

The lever cap is cast hollow...I'm off to Newmarket with my mother now but will photograph later to show you more angles.

Cheers

Jim


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## GazPal (30 Sep 2012)

I'd honestly approach with extreme caution the topic of straightening any bends, as I've a feeling the sway in the lever cap is "as cast" - as with the example I possess - and not the result of over zealous tightening during use. The reason being the absence of physical distortion on the upper surface of the cap at or either side of the point of transition between the two plains. There is a pronounced over-sweep/camber opposite the transition point on my lever cap and this would tend to negate the possibility of buckling.

My bronze lever cap also displays distortion at the threaded pivot holes and I feel this is a natural enough occurrence considering the forces encountered constantly with double irons securely captive between bed and cap. Perhaps a threaded steel insert would have been better employed at this location, but doing so would then tend to telegraph potential stresses through the neck of the cap and on to the adjustment bolt.


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## jimi43 (18 Oct 2012)

I've put the lever cap to one side for a moment as I have decided to practice on this plane in preparation for doing the infills proper on the UKW Infill Project.

I seem to be accumulating handles on my bench lately!!!






This is good...the more I do the more I will get practice in for the big one!

Noel has said that the rasp should be ready by the end of the week (thanks Noel)...and it will be most welcome.

So..to the Scottish Infill Smoother....

I decided to use the "rejected" boxwood for this one...I love boxwood and I know my dear friend Klaus in Germany does too...so this one should please you mate.

I have a template....the old handle....






....but there needs to be some modification after I have worked from the original to get the line-up correct.

Stupidly...I should have thicknessed the block before I cut out the first angles! You live and learn.

So..it was out with the trusty HUNTLEY OAK Japanese saw....






This was perhaps the best purchase I have ever made for where backsaws will not go...just see how easy and perfect this thing cuts this hard wood...






....one single cut...effortless...






I bet you could cut veneers with this saw if you were careful - it is that good!

So...now it's the right thickness (homer) ....I used the old cheeks to test whether my eye was right...






...about 2mm out....






The 300mm disc sander comes in handy here to get it flat and reduce by such a small amount.

The next thing to look into is getting the small back bevel on the mouth right...it seems about 47 degrees and rather crudely done..






I want to get it in line with the angle of the handle which acts as part of the bed and I think there has been some crude tinkering by the previous owner on the original....






The old one goes from 45 to 47 degrees in an arc...presumably cut roughly by chisel to fit a deeper cap iron screw but absolutely no good for support...so I have made it flat at 47 degrees...






...or thereabouts! :mrgreen: 

I have also elongated the hole and made it more oval...the original was too cramped for my hand at least!

Ok...so something I have learned by experience...TEST TEST TEST at each stage....so I assembled the new handle with the old cheeks and bun and fitted the lever cap and iron and cap iron and tested it out....






The difference was immediately noticeable.

Even though the cheeks are not even supporting the iron (yet!)....






....the action was really smooth and it just felt much more rigid with no chatter and a lovely finish to the wood.

I haven't even tuned the iron yet!






Anyone who knows the nature of boxwood in the raw will be able to see how this is going to turn out....






Boxwood has little distinction between heart and sapwood until linseed oil is used on it and then the true natural beauty of the wood is revealed.

The knots are also blackened to accentuate the grain...






Just one look at this piece and we can see all three elements. I can hardly wait to finish this off and put some oil to it!

So...cheeks next and then bun. This is going to be one beautiful plane indeed!

Jim


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## Vann (18 Oct 2012)

jimi43":1zcx4qaf said:


> A bit of over-zealous tightening there in the past methinks or have I missed something here?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Lovely Jimi.

IMHO that is NOT bent. It's two flat(tish) surfaces intersecting - there's not sufficient radius on the back to indicate a bend of that nature. Possibly someone bent it and then filed it back to look like that - but I doubt it. I wondered about making up a wedged shape piece to go under the bottom end (from mouth to pivot) and soldering it to the underside of the lever-cap? But you may come up with a better solution.

Cheers, Vann.


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## Klaus Kretschmar (18 Oct 2012)

jimi43":2wxcrzfq said:


> Jim



Hey Jim, that will become more than just a beauty for sure! Boxwood together with steel, well that's just about the best to my eyes. The subtle grain and the unique colour of the wood make it to look very noble. This dense wood deserves it to get sanded up to high grits... then one will be rewarded with a wood own shimmer that only boxwood and ebony can produce. At least I don't know another wood that can produce such a glance after being just oiled. I'm more than curious on the progress of the plane.

Cheers
Klaus


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## MickCheese (18 Oct 2012)

Jim

Really interesting. 

I have no plans to try something like this, neither the skill nor the patience but mostly the lack of skill, but still enjoying the thread. 

Mick


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## jimi43 (24 Oct 2012)

Time for an update I think. Things have been busy around here lately and I haven't had the time I had hoped to get out to the workshop but I managed a bit more today..into the early hours! 

I thought I would try shaping the outside of the handle with the Millers Falls MF1 "cigar" shave...it is a rather versatile tool and I thought it might work...I was not wrong....







Getting the MF1 tuned is a black art but as long as the "flat" part of the curved cutter is totally flat it seems to do wonders....






This really was accurate...fast and easy and only required some sanding to get the final profile....






Not being able to afford a bobbin sander...I stole the LN idea I saw on their video and made a roller one for the lathe...the bobbin is then me!






It works well as we shall see.

Next was the bit I thought would be "interesting" to get right...the cheeks.

Using the original ones I sized two scales a bit over thick and cut the recess on the outside. It was then simply a case of refining this with a paring chisel...






....not just any paring chisel but my beautiful I.Sorby "Punch" one...sharpened to dangerous levels by Douglas.....






First time I have used it in anger and boy was it worth the wait. There is nothing like paring with a super-sharp old piece of steel...wonderful control! Thanks Douglas!

Note I have left the tail oversized and also the bed...both can be trimmed back precisely to the steel and iron when I have them fitted perfectly....






I used the other old cheek to size the thickness of the new one...this way the handle core will be central.






The cheek is also a perfect fit against the handle.

Then it was simply a case of making the other cheek....avoiding the obvious mistake that I always make when I forget this has to be a mirror of the other one! Not this time...but it was close!






I'm scratching my head at the moment wondering how I can do the cheek roundovers perfectly...I will probably make a scratch which has the profile of the largest radius and use that...but the jury's out on that one at the moment.....any suggestions (apart from waiting for the rasp!!!)....?

So...you may notice that I am constantly testing the iron in the plane...(the shavings!)....






....and I need to make a slight tweak to the cheek on this side (a hairline gap is just visible) and, once the cheeks are glued to the handle...set the bed....but so far it's going quite well.

I can hardly wait to get out the Abranet and Micro-Mesh...that's when this wood will really come to life!

More later! Night all!

Jimi


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## Richard T (24 Oct 2012)

Oddly ... I've found that a flat file is more controllable on curves in wood than a round one. Less likely to dig in/cut too deep in one place. 

Looking fabbo thus far matey. =D>


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## AndyT (24 Oct 2012)

Very nice! I think you've got the hang of this infill plane business rather well.  I wonder if Bill Carter is watching? Perhaps someone close to him could give him a little nudge - I've a feeling he would approve. 

I do think you should leave some shaping to do with the left-handed rasp though. That is likely to be quite a special tool.

Have you decided what finish to give the finished article?


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## jimi43 (24 Oct 2012)

That's the metalworker in ya Richard!! :mrgreen: 

I certainly did use a number of rough files during the shaping and the flat one was quite useful in closing in on the line on the recess.

I have learnt the hard way that when over stuffing...you should always leave twice as much as you think you needed. The old saying that you can always take wood away...etc....is very true when putting down fat infill! 

It looks like a dollop at the moment but once I get this trimmed back, the correct profile will be exposed. There is a lot to play with!

Hi Prof......

Having appreciated Bill's work and finally having the pleasure of meeting him and his lady wife at MAC Timbers recently....I can only aspire to his craftsmanship...the Grand Master indeed! I know he loves boxwood and I shall be following his lead in the use of linseed oil only in the finish.

As Klaus mentioned earlier...boxwood needs to be finished with the progressive abrasive technique...and once again I will use the tried and tested Abranet 120-400G and MicroMesh 1500-12000M treatment.

I find that the linseed oil soaks in better when the surface is rough...as with any finish...so I tend to go for pre-treatment then the polishing...then a soak for a few hours.

The rasp will come into its own on the cheeks and the bun I think...can hardly wait! 8) 

Jim


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## jimi43 (26 Oct 2012)

ALFIE and me decided that, even though it was blinkin' freezing in the workshop tonight...we would go out and work on the bun.....

ALFIE started out by studying the old one...and a nice picture from the Internet to get ideas...






But this was all a sham to fool me into a false sense of security while he nicked a nice bit of beech I was using as a sanding block...






I'll get that back later! Ok...so after finding a suitable offcut from the handle I thought I would push the old Burgess for the final time on this one....

Straight cuts are fairly normal stuff on this amazing machine now...even at full depth....






Now this is over 7cms thick!! Astounding! And this TUFFSAW blade is over six months old and has done miles of cutting.

So...do I risk this depth on a curve? What do you think? :mrgreen: 






...and look how close to the line you can get with no smoking...faltering or jamming....






Following this I then marked out an overstuffed line...again well over what I need all around...and then used the Huntley Oak Japanese saw....






...to trim off the waste.






Again this saw makes some really accurate deep cuts....just what is needed here.

Perfect!






All the lips are well over...which is just what I wanted to achieve...






Well ALFIE approves at least...






Now...to get on with the clearing up....






Later we will decide what bun design we like the best and what goes best with the handle.

I must say..the grain on the bun is going to be absolutely stunning...right in the core! Wonderful stuff boxwood!

Jimi


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## GazPal (27 Oct 2012)

She's taking shape nicely Jim


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## Richard T (27 Oct 2012)

To screw or to rivet; that is the question. Whether 'tis nobeler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous misfortune when, having riveted, the horn gets bust. Which is yer actual Shakespeare. 

Looking very good Alfie. I wonder if anyone has tried slobber as a finish before?


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## Cheshirechappie (27 Oct 2012)

Richard T":2fq3c7dk said:


> Looking very good Alfie. I wonder if anyone has tried slobber as a finish before?



Maybe not as a finish, but it would raise the grain nicely before finish sanding.

By the way, you can get coloured wax filler sticks to deal with the chewed bits.


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## jimi43 (27 Oct 2012)

Cheers Gazza! I used to shy away from showing WIP ....warts and all because I found that most people couldn't see through the rough to the fine but I now think that it beholds us all to show all of the processes so that someone might be encouraged who will be far more skilled and restore these gems for future generations. Also I found that the constructive criticism is very helpful before I make a move...

Aside from that...the generous help you get from most people here for bits and bobs and ideas!

Richard...what say you to old original screws back in again? I think I might distress the boxwood (if I can stand the idea) a little after it's finished...to match the war wounds on the body...but I am reserving all these thoughts for last...I'm not sure I have the guts to whip the boxwood with a chain!!!! :shock: 

Have you never tried phlemseed oil before guys!!?  Hey! I may get ALFIE to do some controlled chewing...that would distress it! 8) And me!!!! Oh and Richard...I had the same problem when I was choosing my pencils...2B or not 2B.... :lol: 

I can't use wax sticks...he's eaten most of them! Other dogs don't hold a candle to him!!!!  

Ok....I'm heading for the door...coat in hand...promise!!! :mrgreen: 

Jim


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## Richard T (28 Oct 2012)

How are the original screws? It would certainly be easier than rivets - getting a hole through the wood to be a direct hit with the hole on the other side of the plane, I found to be an impossibility and had to mess around from either side. 

Also we don't know how the casting would respond. I reckon screws would be both safer and easier.


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## jimi43 (28 Oct 2012)

Richard T":pkqo066i said:


> How are the original screws? It would certainly be easier than rivets - getting a hole through the wood to be a direct hit with the hole on the other side of the plane, I found to be an impossibility and had to mess around from either side.
> 
> Also we don't know how the casting would respond. I reckon screws would be both safer and easier.



Indeed my friend. I think the screws would look "right" back in place but if not I will go for brass and spot mill them down to avoid damaging surrounding steel. They will fade in quite quickly...especially with a bit of "assistance!" :mrgreen: 

Cheers

Jim


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## jimi43 (1 Nov 2012)

Having received the great looking Liogier rasp yesterday...it was time to test it out...firstly on the cheeks....






I was going to cut some of the excess off on the bandsaw but these cheeks don't have any flat reference base anymore so it wasn't going to be easy so I made a pad the shape of the handle..inserted the sandwich into the plane and it was tight enough to hold in place while I tested the rasp cut.






I needn't have worried...this thing cuts like the proverbial knife through butter. Within a few minutes I had the profile I wanted and found myself marching towards the line so fast I had to pull back for fear of getting the profile wrong! 

This thing is amazing and worth every penny. I don't know how better this sapphire model is but I don't really care...it's lovely!

The interesting thing is that you can adjust the angle of cut to get really coarse stock removal and then back it off to get a very smooth finish...both are shown here....






At the same time I tinkered with the bun...






I needed to edge the block in the recess to the front to get the right overhang...and I reached for a file and thenI remembered the rasp! (homer) 

It worked there as well and very consistently! Not something I would have thought of using it for but the curve was just right. It took seconds to adjust the profile correctly.

Ok...it still overhangs too much..like an infill on steroids...






....but that's what I want so I can now take the profiles...tweak them and finish up with a smooth infill of the correct shape.






It was getting late and darn cold out there...even with a heat blaster...so I will leave finishing this until tomorrow...but we're that much closer and all down to that wonderful Liogier rasp....

I may sound like I am exaggerating the capabilities of this tool...but if anything...I am trying to remain restrained.

It's the bees knees!

More later....

Jim


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## GazPal (2 Nov 2012)

She's turning into a real beauty after all of the work you've so far invested into her and very well done too Jim  I honestly think there's very real justification in investing in the rights tools for the job and the proof of the pudding is certainly in the eating.


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## jimi43 (3 Nov 2012)

Today I finished the cheeks and got the bun to the stage where I can ponder the shape.

The rasp was used to even up the contour of the cheeks and then I hit the pair together in the plane with the dummy handle infill to keep them separated correctly....starting with 80G silicon carbide:






Then it's straight to Abranet which will take me from rough to smooth (120G to 400G). I have ordered some 80G today because the paper stuff doesn't come near to Abranet for even finishing and sheds grit all over the shop!






Note, I taped up the steel just in case I get a bit over enthusiastic! 

I want to describe this restoration as fully as possible so excuse me if I state the obvious for some but others who have had less experience with finishing may benefit.

The key to getting an even, scratch-free finish is to use as many grits as you can and at each stage ensure that the scratches from the previous stage are fully removed. The steps for Abranet I use are 120, 180, 240, 320, 400.

I have found that the overlap from Abranet to Micromesh is happy at this point but I am getting 600G in the next pack so I will try that as well. Occasionally I get left over scratches which I think it owing to this jump.

I start the MicroMesh at 1500 mesh (not grit!).....






...then I go up the grades 1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000M






The box has come up as predicted for such an old piece...gorgeous....






...but now we can see where I have cocked up at an early stage! The rasp/80G scratches on this side were nowhere near eliminated during the first progression of coarse Abranet. Start all over again Jim!! :roll: 

Mind you...my excuse is I didn't do this in daylight...it was dark by then and I much prefer daylight to see where you've missed.

Where I could see on the bun...although it's not at the final contour yet...






....I only did the top face to see the amazing grain but you get the idea of what it looks like when it is done properly! :mrgreen: 

Note...there is no polish whatever on this wood or oil....I will soak this in linseed oil when I finish to bring out the grain amazingly!






If I go for a plain bun...this one will need curving at the front and more at the sides...but I want to curve the slope from the mouth correctly first.

I could also go for the standard "wedding cake" profile....opinions on what I should do, gratefully received! 8) 






So...more perhaps tomorrow although I must finish my SS....

Just a note about the gaps....the whole thing will move forward a few thou to close the gap at the front of the cheeks and line up the rear...I just need to align all three components and surface finish the bed bringing it forward in the process. Once these are one, I can then consider the fixing!

More later!

Jim


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## Klaus Kretschmar (3 Nov 2012)

You made my day, Jim!

Looking this bun, I know why I do love Boxwood. This surface without any finish, amazing!

The plane already IS a beauty. After the last steps are done, it will be a true work of art, I'm sure about that. You did it stunningly good so far. And I'm happy that you shaped the rear infill cheeks flush to the rear end of the plane body. That's classy and that is truly beautiful.

Now finish it and it will be a winner!

Cheers
Klaus

P.S. Not sure if I'd finish this wood with linseed oil. The linseed oil does yellow the wood. The Boxwood already is yellow but in a subtle kind of this colour, that I find very attractive. So I would probably go with a colour neutral oil like poppy oil or with Tru-Oil. Both of them leave the natural colour of the wood.


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## jimi43 (3 Nov 2012)

Hi Klaus

Thank you my friend and I am glad you like the wood...this is the reason why it is one of my most favourites...along with it's dense grain and tame character. You can make almost anything with it.

Now...I have a treat for you. I decided to finish the bun above before I had profiled it to enable me to determine what to do with it...which way the grain was flowing and what would be revealed should I add more grain transitions...

I opted for the simple "Spiers" type bun...and I'm glad I did...






Hundreds of years old with many stories in those rings! A truly amazing piece of nature.






See the little radial shoots...they are going to be tremendous when finished as is the transition between the sap and the heart which is virtually indistinguishable at the moment.

The reason I want to use linseed oil...and it's the only wood I use it on..is that it naturally highlights these variations in the rings. Bill Carter uses this to great effect in is boxwood planes and this is another thing that is virtually unique to boxwood...English especially.

If you ignore the macro distortion for a moment...you see the different wood structure best in this shot...






Those Jovian flows will stand out really well with a soaking overnight.

Yup...this is going to be a real eye candy infill!






Now to tackle the handle again now I have the rasp!

Jim


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## Klaus Kretschmar (4 Nov 2012)

Hm, Jim, maybe I've to rethink my reservation on using linseed oil on Boxwood! The bun turned out magnificently to say the least. Judging from the pics, the surface of this bun is so clear that it nearly gets the look of being translucent like polished marble would be. Very impressive ... and inspiring!

Klaus


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## jimi43 (4 Nov 2012)

Klaus Kretschmar":3t4mcwjr said:


> Hm, Jim, maybe I've to rethink my reservation on using linseed oil on Boxwood! The bun turned out magnificently to say the least. Judging from the pics, the surface of this bun is so clear that it nearly gets the look of being translucent like polished marble would be. Very impressive ... and inspiring!
> 
> Klaus



Hi Klaus

There are a number of woods I feel are so beautiful that I am reticent to put any "barrier" finish on them...just oil.

Linseed oil can be a bit of a mixed bag with regards to its use as a "finish" but I think there are two woods it works very well indeed on...boxwood and beech.

Both tend to soak it up really well and the character it adds to these woods makes it unique.

My next finish of choice is indeed Tru-Oil as you mentioned...which (as you probably know) is a polymerized linseed oil anyway...but is actually a true "finish" in that it is a barrier rather than being totally absorbed and a conditioner. Tru-Oil will yellow remarkably quickly on light woods and indeed...I used to use it extensively on new guitar necks with the certain knowledge that they would age to an antique yellow...ideal for vintage restorations.

It also has the added advantage of being tactile in that it is non-sticky...making it fantastic for guitars where slick, rapid movement of the hand is required. It's true that it does wear faster than nitrocellulose but it can be refreshed with thinned coats periodically...giving a new "burnt-in" finish.

This is why it is so popular with gun owners...and its waterproof properties protect the wood from the elements.

I think it also smells much nicer than boiled or raw linseed oil. But what it doesn't do is soak in which I think I would prefer for infills. I want the wood to acquire a vintage patina pretty quickly so that it will blend in with the rest of the plane. I think this will be the best option in this case.

I am going to consider Tru-Oil as a finish for the UK Workshop Project Infill Jointer though...I think it will be ideal for the burr oak and give a wonderful rich glow.

Jimi


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## jimi43 (13 Nov 2012)

Nearly completed now and with the addition of a proper lever cap which arrived today but to late to do anything with until tomorrow now...I decided to finish the handle...and fit all parts temporarily.

It all went together rather well....






..you can see all the cock-ups like not realising that the original casting sides were not exactly flat/level on the right hand side so I have to put a little filler in there but after the oil and aging...it won't show...I just know it's there and so do you now!

This needs a bit of finishing now with linseed oil but I wanted to try the bed out to see if it's right...so straight in the deep end with some oak...






Well...it does what it says on the tin...rough to smooth in the blink of an eye.

The iron needs tweaking/changing and maybe just a slight evening of the bed but I'm pleased with this...






I kept the general shape of the original maker's handle...not exactly traditional but remarkably comfortable...






The Bristol Designs lever cap casting is supposed to be "raw" but it's so well done I hardly have to do much to it...just adjust the width a slight bit and polish it up really....should be an hour's work at most.






Back later with that.

Jim


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## Richard T (14 Nov 2012)

Good grief Jim ... where did that lever appear from???


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## jimi43 (14 Nov 2012)

Richard T":2fdd57qv said:


> Good grief Jim ... where did that lever appear from???



That's the original Richard...with a knob from a mitre (chopping mitre) plane I happen to have about.

Just using it now for testing...and I now have a flatter lever cap (standard shape) which I can now mill down to the right size....later!

I have had a few "issues" with the milling machine and so an X3 Super Tilt is arriving tomorrow...so now I have not 65kg just moveable but 165kg definitely not moveable!

We're getting there with that one...finally!

I haven't got a picture of the new lever cap as I have locked up for the night but will do so tomorrow.

Cheers mate

Jim


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## Klaus Kretschmar (14 Nov 2012)

jimi43":3bvi5iok said:


>



Wonderful, just wonderful! I'm convinced that this tool never before was allowed to look that beautiful and well done. No doubt here, that you will make it to perform excellently as well, Jim.

Many congrats on this fantastic rehab.

Klaus


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## jimi43 (21 Nov 2012)

Cheers Klaus...that's praise indeed!

Ok the saga of the mill now being sorted...and the new lever cap having arrived via Andy...THANKS PROF!! from Bristol Designs...(isn't Charles a gem!)...I decided to take the raw casting to a rough shape with the mill and then finish by hand.






Bit of an overkill for this job...but what the heck! (Hand Tool obsessives please look away now!!!! :mrgreen: )

ALFIE helped!






Now before any black stuff whizzers out there criticises the setup and results....I have to point out that ALFIE has not actually done any milling before so please excuse him!

After removing most of the casting rough bits with a file...we clamped it tightly against an angle plate....






...to square up the sides...






...which worked nicely...






...and meant it could then be fitted safely in a sine vise to finish the top...






...as there was some quite deep casting pits.

After most of this was removed a quick disc sand and we can see what we are doing...






After finishing the top bits by hand (I haven't quite got used to the rotary table yet  ....I fitted it to the plane to see how it looked...






A few scratches which I need to get out...a bit of "ageing" to do but it looks the part!!!

Sorry Richard...I could have done the whole thing with files in about half the time but I wanted to play with the new toy...

I promise to do your one by hand...or at least finish it by hand...WHEN I finally either get a larger casting or I get a suitable bit of bronze/gunmetal (still looking! #-o )

So...before I subject the whole thing to final finishing...a few shots of the plane in action on some particularly nasty oak...reversing grain...knots...the works...






Boy...did that make a difference...!! 






Whizzed through this old oak...even the knot....






....leaving a mirror finish!






...and that's just with a little old 100+ year old I.Sorby!

Ok....I will now hit it with the linseed oil find some old bolts for the lever cap to replace those temporary ones (you did noticed didn't you? :mrgreen: ) and then start looking seriously for some proper stock for the jointer.....

But in the meantime...why not make an iron blank on the mill first!

More on that in the other thread later!

Cheers for all the help Andy!!

Jim


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## Richard T (22 Nov 2012)

Jimi wrote: _Sorry Richard...I could have done the whole thing with files in about half the time but I wanted to play with the new toy..._

Not at all matey - it's a thing and a half to do anyway. Spotting the holes on either side and squaring the sides to an exact fit so that it fits width wise and (essentially) it is square to the iron and applies an even pressure. It's the stuff of nightmares to do by hand and by eye. 

Were the pivot holes in the plane already threaded or did you have to do them too?

I finally rang Keatley Metals in Brum the other day and priced up some brass and bronze bar .... the guy was very keen that for what I wanted, I should go in and see what offcuts they might have. I will try to get in on the train later this week and let you know how I get on. I may well have one arm longer than the other when I get back.


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## Racers (22 Nov 2012)

Crivens Jim

That looks nice, and the plane looks good as well.

Pete


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## Harbo (22 Nov 2012)

Nice job but I see you sliding down the metal working slope - even deeper? 
Did you find your first Mill too small - the X3 looks good?

Rod


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## jimi43 (22 Nov 2012)

Hi Richard

The casting just came raw...although there was not a lot of escaped bronze in the mold....they did a good job with the sand!

No holes as can be seen from the raw casting picture...so those were spotted on one side firmly clamped up and drilled on the mill which is an absolute breeze and then followed through on the other side. 

I made and tapped out the holes to the nearest metric screw with a view to either putting in a bronze rod or making a larger imperial tapped hole once I get the right countersunk screws with slots.....not sure which way to go yet.

I was trying to find a place with "offcuts" so that I could get a suitable piece for your jointer by weight so if you have found a source then let me know...I think you have my mobile number..

It's a strange size to find....and casting may still be a cheaper option.

Yes...I did go a bit mad with the mill Pete/Rod....but there isn't a suitable size between the SX2 (65kg) and the SX3 (165kg)...which would have been my chosen option. The SX2 is a beautiful and capable machine Rod...with one flaw...the torsion bar. I couldn't find any way around it so I went with Axminster's recommendation of the larger machine and I don't think I will ever regret it. I can see why it's one of the most popular "small" (yeh right!) mills on the market today.

Jim


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## condeesteso (24 Nov 2012)

sorry been away and quiet, but have to say this looks really lovely. From the 40 quid starter (which showed great promise anyway) you have made a right treat. Feel proud you have brought a (once) fine plane back into the 'highly desirable' category. =D> 
Was interested re Klaus's comments regarding the yellowing of box - I too like the cream natural tones... tru-oil then?? I wonder if just a hard clear wax may be enough, as the wood tends to look after itself and a bit of contact-discoloration is nice anyway.


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## pedder (24 Nov 2012)

Hi Jim, 

that is very very good, but we need better pictures. I Know you can do!

Cheers 
Pedder


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## ac445ab (25 Nov 2012)

Fantastic job!
Bravissimo =D> 

Ciao
Giuliano


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## jimi43 (6 Dec 2012)

pedder":31vfo5z3 said:


> Hi Jim,
> 
> that is very very good, but we need better pictures. I Know you can do!
> 
> ...



Hi Pedder

Thanks mate....but I need to explain...the sun has not shone on days when I was off since I started this project. It really gets so depressing I just feel like getting in the car with ALFIE and moving to the south of France for the Winter!!

Anyway....I tried my best to get artificial light sorted to show up the boxwood which is not an easy wood to show in a photo but here you go...






I've finished the casting...all the grits and meshes again...which is what it's for really!

Just a few soaks in boiled linseed oil so far but it is already starting to patinate so I think it is going to mature quite well...






You can clearly see the cock up here...the gap which has had to be filled with a slither...this is where one side was not the same height as the other and by the time I had noticed...it was too late!. I learned from this though! You will see I used this knowledge when I finished the first cuts to the UKW infill (see other thread) today. Which is what this project was for really!  






The brass will darken really quickly...it looks really bling at the moment but it's already started to oxidise.

The last thing I will be doing to this is to remove those Philips bolts and get some proper slot head ones in there...I've just got to dig through my old screw piles....there are a few! :mrgreen: 

Giuliano...thanks mate...much appreciated.

Cheers

Jim


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## Richard T (7 Dec 2012)

Brilliant job Jim. =D> 

That must be the hardest infill job second only to a coffin over-stuff. I have my own one of those to keep at the back of my mind. 

Box is gorgeous stuff. I saw a very big lump (slab) at MacTimbers the other week and it was the only piece I've ever seen there with "Ask Mike about price" written on it. I decided not to.  

Paid great attention to your fitting methods and feel more inspired to have a bash at one of the straight sided smoothers that have been accumulating here.


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## pedder (7 Dec 2012)

Hi Jim,

I just can repeat myself: Great Job you did! 

Thanks for the pictures. (Why do you use the flashlight?)

Cheers Pedder


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## jimi43 (7 Dec 2012)

pedder":3024ykjn said:


> Hi Jim,
> 
> I just can repeat myself: Great Job you did!
> 
> ...



Thanks guys...and I promise when the sun comes out again Pedder...I will take some natural shots...today is equally as gloomy! 

Cheers

Jimi


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## pedder (7 Dec 2012)

jimi43":10pnsneg said:


> and I promise when the sun comes out again Pedder...I will take some natural shots...today is equally as gloomy!



Jimi my friend,

I don't know half as much as you regarding photography but I allways thought a cloudy sky as a big light tent. 

Taken on a very cloudy day, lightened up a little with the camera: 





Cheers 
Pedder


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## jimi43 (7 Dec 2012)

Agreed but I haven't seen natural light which would work for weeks now. There was a brief morning when the sun came out when I was out with ALFIE but apart from that it's been really miserable.

Apparently things are set to change tomorrow...we shall see! :wink: 

Jim


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## jimi43 (9 Dec 2012)

Boxwood is proving a nightmare to photograph properly...I will probably have to resort to some trickery! :wink: 

Anyway...here you go Pedder...the sun being out but diffused by slight cloud...











...and one especially for Klaus...to show of how well the Abranet/MicroMesh/linseed oil progression works...






Other than that Pedder...we shall have to wait until the right day...but at the moment it is about as dull as Nigel Mansell when he's bored! :mrgreen: 

Jim


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## Klaus Kretschmar (15 Dec 2012)

jimi43":2kb9x2wo said:


>



I'm late on the party Jim. 

As mentioned earlier, I love this plane. It's so well done and the wood choice will be hard to top. What really blows me away is the surface quality, that you were able to give to these pieces of Boxwood. That's nothing but amazing, clear like glass. You've set the bar very high with this plane. I'm more than curious to see the finished UKW plane but I guess that you will have to excel yourself if you want to beat the beauty of this one.

Cheers
Klaus


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## jimi43 (15 Dec 2012)

I'm constantly impressed by boxwood...from antique handles to new wood...particularly figured. I try to find pieces with as many knots and burrs that I can find...and Robert at Timberline like me I think as most people want perfect stock!

I thank you for your kind words...it is hard to show the finish then I had the brainwave of using something to reflect in it...and the lens cap was the first thing to hand....it worked better than I could have hoped.

Dense woods lend themselves more to higher finish gloss...and the more open grained ones....less so. But even this lilac wood....






...still exhibits a higher gloss with the Abranet/MicroMesh process.

I still need to seep a bit more linseed oil into the boxwood but it is darkening by the day and I prefer the aged look to be honest. I know you and Douglas prefer the lighter fresh-cut look but it will never stay that way long no matter what you do. UV will do its work in time! :wink: 

Cheer mate

Jimi


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## pedder (15 Dec 2012)

Jimi, 

now can I see all the beauty of this plane, my friend! I don't have your talent in praising things, 
but this is one of the best finished infills I've seen. And this statement includes some of the big maker of our days.

Cheers 
Pedder


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## rileytoolworks (15 Dec 2012)

Absolutely stunning Jimi.
The fit and finish are truly outstanding.
I must replenish my stock of MicroMesh. Any tips on the cheapest source?

All the best.
Adam.
P.S. I love that Lilac!!!

Hope Annie, Alfie and your good self have a super Christmas.


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