# Corner Bookcase Top



## merlin (19 Jul 2019)

I have been asked to make a corner bookcase out of Oak so have made a scaled down version. 

I am open to opinions on the best way to construct and join the base, shelf and particularly the top as ideally they want it in solid Oak.

If the joint was simply mitred it will open up and move about as it is going to be about 600mm long so ideas please.

Thanks, Merlin


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## AndyT (20 Jul 2019)

I think a piece like that really ought to be made out of veneered boards, not solid. I don't think you will find a historical example of one until the 20th century and widespread availability of plywood.

A long mitre will just open up, as you say and an end to side join will need a way to hide movement.

(Also, if they really want to put books on it, they'll soon realise that the corner space is unusable  .)


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## sunnybob (20 Jul 2019)

as per the other thread running about pricing a jewellery box,,,
Have you given them a true estimate of cost for parts and labour because that will be an awful lot of man hours.


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## Droogs (20 Jul 2019)

If you want to keep it as clean as the model you will have to put in a lot of effort to get joints that wont open up over time. If you trust your glue then a splined mitre, if not, then a sliding dovetail on the mitre joint along with a stopped groove on the back pieces to fit the shelves into. That way the joint is secure but it and the shelves have support to take the weight of books on them
hth


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## woodbloke66 (20 Jul 2019)

AndyT":2o1atba4 said:


> I think a piece like that really ought to be made out of veneered boards, not solid. I don't think you will find a historical example of one until the 20th century and widespread availability of plywood.
> 
> A long mitre will just open up, as you say and an end to side join will need a way to hide movement.
> 
> (Also, if they really want to put books on it, they'll soon realise that the corner space is unusable  .)



Agree here with Andy; if it's made from solid material it's almost certain to move and open up over time, so veneered boards IMO is the way to do it. If you were to use 2mm thick veneer (either constructional or bandsawn) the mitred join wouldn't be too tricky to level, but with wafer thin 0.6mm commercial stuff you could go through it in the blink of an eye. Folk seem to have this strange idea of wanting something in 'solid oak'; Krenov made the observation years ago in one of his books that a thick veneer surface can be treated as solid material in that it can be scraped, planed and sanded - Rob


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## merlin (20 Jul 2019)

Thanks gents it all make s sense, I have a few ideas so will let you know how it goes.

Merlin


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