# Which spray cans for a shiny guitar, please...



## Kalimna (15 May 2013)

Greetings folks,
Although I have been quite happy using tru-oil to finish the couple of guitars made so far, for the next one I would like to go for a shiny look. I am aware it I achievable with tru-oil, but that is a relatively soft finish. Instead, I would like to go down the spray lacquer route.
I don't have the finances/space for a dedicated compressor/spray gun system, so will be using rattle cans.
Now, my question is, what particular type of spray can lacquer should I go for? I could go for Halfords clear lacquer, but would prefer something of better value. Nitrocellulose is traditional, but there seem to be several formulations.
Any help would be appreciated,
Cheers,
Adam


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## stevenw1963 (15 May 2013)

Adam,

Look at the chestnut range - melamine lacquer etc - gives really good finishes


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## twothumbs (15 May 2013)

You could think about cans of car cellulose spray which is quick drying and can be given a buff up. Get it from a local car or paint factors, not Heplessfords. I use it to give a hard finish to handles, and things. Best wishes


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## MIGNAL (15 May 2013)

Spray outdoors. That type of stuff isn't pleasant to the old bellows. 
Personally I would have stayed with the Tru Oil.


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## bodge (15 May 2013)

As twothumbs suggests, nitro cellulose is the time honoured lacquer finish favoured for instruments. Either the automotive stuff from a motor factors, or if you are feeling flush look up somewhere like shop.rothkoandfrost.co.uk or http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk who do rattle cans of nitro specifically for instruments. The instrument lacquer can also be bought with coloured tints if that floats your boat.
Oh, and don't forget the pictures when you are finished! :mrgreen:


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## Kalimna (15 May 2013)

Thanks for the suggestions. The issue I was attempting to resolve was which type of lacquer to go for. Now, I know that nitrocellulose is a traditional finish (though takes an age to fully cure prior to being buffed out) and that is certainly an option. But I have also come across 1k clear lacquer, 2k clear lacquer (seems good, but a bit nasty on the old bellows, as you say) and no-name-type-general car gloss lacquer. Perhaps I shall just pick one and go for it (on some scrap first, obviously!).

Steven - yep, had thought of Chestnut etc, but was unsure whether suitable or not for instruments. For instance, is the melamine lacquer soft/hard? Does it go on thick or thin? (Latter not an issue for electric guitars, but certainly is for anything acoustic). I will check their price against the others.

Twothumbs - I suspect I will end up going down that route, but can you recommed any particular online retailers?

Mignal - A valid point, and I am in no way unhappy with the tru-oil, it is just that I am trying to learn new techniques, and I dont feel that tru-oil can give the full high gloss (that is also 'hard') that a sprayed lacquer can. I am also not really in a position (at the moment) to learn french polishing as a finishing skill time-wise, though that would be an eventual goal. I will also be spraying a block colour over one (or two) guitars when I get around to them, and tru-oil imparts a (slight) coloured tint that I would like to avoid, even if it is compatible with the coloured paint I want to use.

Bodge - yes, there will certainly be another WIP at some point  I have the two rippled maple concert ukes ready with braces attached and ready to be carved, and the sides bent (a little more wobbly than I had hoped however!). Essentially I want to attempt a stain a little like this http://www.prsguitars.com/aldimeolaprism/colors.php ,so nothing too difficult, eh?

Again, thanks for the input,
Adam


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## marcros (15 May 2013)

i dont know anything much about guitars, other than looking at a few WIPs online and discussions on sunburst stains etc. Is one of the problems with nitrocellulose lacquer that it goes soft with sweat/heat/moisture from the user? Probably more of an issue on an electric than this project but not ideal.


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## MIGNAL (15 May 2013)

Oh well French polishing isn't _that_ difficult. It's virtually impossible to mess it up to the extent that you can't retrieve the situation. It's also extremely simple in terms of equipment and it's low cost. No issues with dust and the fumes aren't the worst you will ever come across. I've done numerous French Polishing on instruments but a couple of years ago I switched to brushing the stuff on and then doing a few glazing coats with the rubber. Much quicker than French Polishing all the way through. There's just as much learning curve with a brush as there is with French Polishing. Having read some of the problems that people post regarding Spraying I sometimes wonder if it's actually worth it. In an industrial high volume production setting it's obvious that it is.


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## deserter (15 May 2013)

I'm currently making an electric and plan to French polish it, I'll let you know how it goes. 


~Nil carborundum illegitemi~


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## [email protected] (15 May 2013)

Google rothkow and frost in cinder ford, they stock tinted areosols also loads of guitar stuff, very helpful on the phone as well


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## Kalimna (16 May 2013)

Mignal - Perhaps I should have a go with French polishing? Can you suggest any good online tutorials? I think my main concern was that a guitar, with all its complex curves, would not be the easiest first subject to practice on. However, you don't learn to swim by staying dry. And I can see the aesthetic interest in doing a hand intensive finish.

Deserter - What design do you have for your electric? Any chance of a WIP?

Matt - That's a name I've come across, so will certainly check them out.

Cheers,
Adam


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## twothumbs (16 May 2013)

I rather think spray cans come as a water based nowadays...but could be wrong. Modern cars are finished with an acrylic or such like (water) lacquar so should be around. You are in Alloa so there should be Brown Bros in Falkirk. Look for Body Shop Supplies type firms.


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## Kalimna (16 May 2013)

Twothumbs - Spray cans come in acrylic, and various other solvents from unpleasant, nasty, to very nasty. I shall, however, check out Brown Bros as google brings up a branch in Falkirk. I think there is an autofinish supplier in Stirling, but can't remember what it's called.
Cheers,
Adam


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## MIGNAL (16 May 2013)

Kalimna":1gydssny said:


> Mignal - Perhaps I should have a go with French polishing? Can you suggest any good online tutorials? I think my main concern was that a guitar, with all its complex curves, would not be the easiest first subject to practice on. However, you don't learn to swim by staying dry. And I can see the aesthetic interest in doing a hand intensive finish.
> 
> Deserter - What design do you have for your electric? Any chance of a WIP?
> 
> ...



I can only recommend the Mignal school of French Polishing. Pretty pointless doing a hand intensive finish when you can do the same thing much quicker!
Google 'Milburn tutorial'. That's what many use. It sounds very intensive and drawn out. The way some people do it, it is. Start with a wood that you don't need to Pore fill - Cherry, Maple. That cuts out a stage that most people have huge problems with. The rest is just practice, identifying the problems and then finding the solution. Usually beginners load too much polish and then the lines become too deep/visible. Anyway, you can simply cut back and continue on your merry way.
The Mignal school advocates brushing the stuff on (also know as Spirit Varnishing), extremely thinly. 15 coats +. That seems a huge amount but in reality it's still a thin finish. I can coat a Guitar Back in about. . . . . 20 seconds or less. Any longer than that and you will ruin it. 15 x 20 seconds = 5 minutes. Ok it's longer than that with a bit of preparation time. Every 5 coats I level with 600G wet/dry - all done wet. I can put on 4 or even 5 coats in a long day although usually I'm content with 2 or 3 in any day. After I have all the coats on I do a final level, done until the whole surface looks dull. Then I do a few sessions with the pad using the glazing method. That's it. Done. If you want the really glassy glassy look (not for me) forget the glazing method and go through the grits finishing off with a cream polish - Liberon finish restorer/reviver.


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## zb1 (16 May 2013)

Morrels do spay cans of furniture lacquer now. Haven't used any but noticed it on the website the other day when looking for info about pre-cat lacquer suitable for HVLP. Might be worth a look.


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## deserter (16 May 2013)

Kalimna":2qj8podj said:


> Deserter - What design do you have for your electric? Any chance of a WIP?



It started out as a sort if spin on an ibanex rg style, but then I decided make a few changes here and there, so now it is what it is. Didn't think to do a WIP sorry but I do have a couple of progress shots, 





Hand sawing the body board took some doing, but it was nice weather. 





Scarf joint in progress. 





Body after routing out. 





First stage of shaping the body. 

That's all I have so far, but hopefully I should be ready to finish in a week or so, which reminds me I must buy some fret wire tomorrow. 

I have tried to use timbers either that I already had, like the bubinga or if I had to buy them then as local as possible, so with the bubinga exception the whole thing has only travelled about 45 miles from being a tree to becoming a guitar. 


~Nil carborundum illegitemi~


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