# Record RSBS12 Bandsaw manual help



## Anonymous (2 Aug 2005)

Can anyone help me out please. i have just bought a secondhand Record RSBS12 Bandsaw but the owner couldn't find the manual or a few bits that had fallen off. 

the bits missing are, one of the plastic/rubber feet off the stand and one of the yellow nut/bolts of the fence.

i have looked on the record site but to no avail but i have mails them. it looks like there not made anymore from the look of there site.
then bits missing a can make if need be but im stuck without the manual as no of the bandsaw is set-up. the bandsaw is like new, very little dust on it and not a scratch on it. 

can anyone please help me out with the manual.

thanks people in advance for your help


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## tim (2 Aug 2005)

Phil

Welcome to the forum

I have an RSBS 14 - I can't say I'm in love with it, but its what I've got. 

Anyway the point is I do have the manual and I imagine that there is little or no difference in the details (except for band size etc) - so if no one comes up trumps with exactly what you want, PM me and I will photocopy or scan the manual and send it to you.

Re lost knobs etc they are standard fittings - think they are M4 but most tool shops will have parts bin replacements from Record if not other manufacturers.

Cheers

Tim


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## devonwoody (3 Aug 2005)

I've got the RSbs12 bandsaw and manual PM me with your email address and I should be able to sort you out a copy. 

The bandsaw is OK provided you use sharp blades and keep the track setting upto scratch.


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## Anonymous (3 Aug 2005)

thanks gents for your help. so was £100 to much for it, it is in mint condition apart from the above few things


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## devonwoody (3 Aug 2005)

You should be able to make at least 50% profit on selling on


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## Anonymous (3 Aug 2005)

manual is sorted thanks to record. i mailed them and they sent me a PDF file off it, so thank everybody for you offers of help with that.
also all the bits that need replacing or are missing they will sell direct to me so that that one sorted.

i have been playing all morning with it getting it all lined up, i thing the guy i bought it off must have suffered with it as nothing is straight.

the on bit i cant sort is the bed angle, when stood at the front of it so the teeth are pointing at you, the table bed is slopping back to front. i cant find a way of adjusting it without shiming with washers. over the 150mm of the blade the top is 5mm away from square. it looks like someone has stood on the table and bent is.lol.

any ideas on a work round for it?

thanks again gent.


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## Alf (3 Aug 2005)

Welcome to the forum, Phil.


activeviii":2w3w38z3 said:


> the on bit i cant sort is the bed angle, when stood at the front of it so the teeth are pointing at you, the table bed is slopping back to front. i cant find a way of adjusting it without shiming with washers. over the 150mm of the blade the top is 5mm away from square. it looks like someone has stood on the table and bent is.lol.


Well assuming the table _isn't_ bent, washers are as good a way as any of shimming the table square. IIRC I had to do that with my old Elu, and it was just fine. Still is, by and large.

Cheers, Alf


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## devonwoody (3 Aug 2005)

PHIL

When facing the teeth on your bandsaw look to the left hand side under the table. There should be a stop bolt (and Nut) which aligns or adjusts the table angle as a stop. This could be stopping you from getting the 90 degree set up you are looking for.


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## Anonymous (15 Aug 2005)

sorry for the delay in posting. busy trying to sort plans for my workshop. not easy when trying to have wood and metal in the same shop. :shock: 

anyway. when looking at the teeth on the blade, the table is out 2mm over 6" (150mm) from front to back. i have adjusted everything that i can but theres no way to adjust the tilt from front to back, if i didnt know better i would say someone has stood on the bed, where the blade slot is. i think i will shim the casting that holds the bed on and see if i can get it a bit better.

i used it to cut 4" tenons for a door but 14tpi blade was a tad to fine :lol: but they where square even if i had to finish the last bit with a chisel as the blade didnt cut the last bit at the bottom.



one more bit of help is someone would be so good. for genral cutting what TPI do i need, is there some site somewhere that will haveall the info on blades. oh and what sort of price should i be paying for blades. i have some made but they rattle evert time the weld hits, i sorted that with a dremal grinder thou.

thanks again for the help.


all the best.
Phil.


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## devonwoody (16 Aug 2005)

I purchased my last set of blades from Dure-edge (do a search) and they seem a good blade, around the £10 to £14 range on my rsbs12.

6 tpi seems to be a general all purpose blade but dure edge would advise if you tell them your requirements.


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## Losos (16 Aug 2005)

Phil - I can't add much to the bandsaw blade question except I've seen Dure Edge recommended before, people seem to like them. 

What I am interested in is your ideas for a wood / metal shop in one. I'm building a new shop right now and metal work has to be done in part of it. What are your 'guidelines' if I can put it like that  Do you have any 'do's' and 'don'ts' Just interested to know your thinking on this issue.


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## Chris Knight (16 Aug 2005)

Losos":2i7obh9e said:


> What I am interested in is your ideas for a wood / metal shop in one. I'm building a new shop right now and metal work has to be done in part of it. What are your 'guidelines' if I can put it like that  Do you have any 'do's' and 'don'ts' Just interested to know your thinking on this issue.



I am fortunate in having two spaces separated by a wall and a door and IMHO, this is what is needed to keep oil and swarf away from wood! I do use the metal working space for sharpening woodworking tools, which is useful.

At a minimum I would recommend some form of curtain and a piece of carpet to try and cut down on migration of stuff from the metal side to the wood side.


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## Losos (17 Aug 2005)

Chris - Thanks, as it happens I was wondering about putting in a stud partition wall, I could easily do it now, or latter on when everything is more or less in it's final position.


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## Anonymous (17 Aug 2005)

i havent got that far yep. i have a blank canvas of 5m x 4m to play with but i have to put a cupbord in there for my fishing kit to be locked away safely, so where the cupboard wil be will leave me a nice area to put up a screen for my small amount of metalworking tools but mainly to stop the weld sparks to fly, i also have a seprate area with a out side door for all the paints/stain and such likes. when i get the old little shed out the way i will post a pic to show whats what. but in the mean time i have to go and check my paint to see if all is ok. i have dovegray painted the floor and white paint on the walls with a handcut roof of 8.2mtrs on the inside so i can get 8x4 sheets in there upright.  

i ahve found a place close by that makes the blades to order so i have just ordered a few, 14tpi 8mm and 16mm and 2 6TPI dont know if thats about right but i was hopping to use the 14TPI for sheet metal.

thanks for looing and helping.

all the best.
Phil


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