# Which new chisels?



## MBcarpentry (14 Mar 2016)

Looking to treat myself to a new set of chisels, looking a a few different offerings but not sure which one to go for been looking at the Veritas pmv 11, lie Nielsen socket chisels and some Japanese chisels ( not real high end ones) all are around the same sort of money (around £250 for a set of 5) are any of you guys using any of these chisels and what are your thoughts? or using something else that is of nice quality for the same sort of money?


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## MBcarpentry (14 Mar 2016)

Was also looking at the Ashley iles mk2 cabinet makers chisels which are slightly cheaper but still look nice qaulity


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## yetloh (14 Mar 2016)

It's all about the steel and what you want to do with it. If you are doing timber framing in green oak you will want something that is resistant and preferably doesn't rust in the blink of an eye, but the ultimate edge will be less important, and for this modern tool steels are excellent. If you are into fine cabinet making then a super sharp egde thath will not dull in a trice will be important. I tend to the latter and love my Japanese chisels. I have some very exxpensive ones but also some Iyorois which which are almot as good, if not so aesthetically pleasing. I think the LNs may be A2 steel which I hve personally found to be variable in durability (sometimes crumbly edges) and does not take a really good edge in plane irons. I also have only plane iron experience of Veritas PM V11 but it takes a better edge which is very long lasting. I suspect that I would also be very happy with chisels made from it as an excellent compromise for general use.

Jim


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## sundaytrucker (14 Mar 2016)

I have six or seven Ashley Iles mk2 chisels and cannot fault them. Although if I had the money I would have bought the Veritas chisels.


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## shed9 (14 Mar 2016)

I've been in a similar position myself looking at the exact same chisel options.

Of all the reviews I've read the Veritas chisels seem to have the edge (no pun intended), but of course they are the more expensive option.

Will be watching this to help me decide as well.


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## AJB Temple (14 Mar 2016)

Well....I have about a dozen LN socket chisels (bench and mortice) and consider them to be excellent (less so for mortice) for the general carpentery and fairly fine work that I do (or aspire to). I am a bit of a hand tool sharpening obsessive and have had no issues with edge durability or retention. The finish and trueness (flat backs etc) is excellent I have a couple of Veritas chisels and think they are equally as good as the LN as tools, but not quite as well finished. I have a number of old chisels from eBay including the original Stanley pattern on which LN are based, and they work fine too. I have some ancient plastic handled Footprint chisels that I still use and they are fine. 

Honestly, a chisel is a simple tool and if you are willing to put a bit of work into the edge almost anything will do the job if the steel is half decent. So aesthetics plays a part and that is why I bought the LN. You can choose the steel still I believe if you are prepared to wait a little while. 


Japanese chisels handle differently in my much more limited experience, but I have quite a few Japanese tools and would be happy with them as well, especially if the finish is good. 

In real life what do I use most? My old Footprints that my dad bought me. For fine work I use only the LN. mainly because I like the geometry and can get a very fine durable edge with a secondary bevel. The handles are comfortable for me but some find them too small I believe. 

Have a look on Classic Hand Tools - they have a good range and descriptive explanations of the differences.


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## AJB Temple (14 Mar 2016)

Meant to add. Tried Narex. Excellent value for money. Cheap and nasty handles though so if that matters you would need to turn some new ones. I use mine (or rather abuse them) on green oak with a hammer. They take a lot of punishment as there is a lot of metal and hefty handles that you won't mind hurting. 

Looked at Blue Spruce Toolworks and drooled over these expensive chisels. Too beautiful to use, so I didn't buy any! probably will one day. The handles are far nicer than anyone else's and the standard of finish is exceptional. So is the price. But....in practice you probably only use 2 or 3 chisels a lot, so maybe just buy the ones you use most rather than sets.


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## MBcarpentry (14 Mar 2016)

Thanks for all the replies guys, yeah I have a full set of marples split proof chisels I'v have for 20 years (actual marples not Irwin) which I use on a daily and will continue to do so, but I'm looking for some nice chisels for bench work mainly, I'v handled the lie Nielsen and veritas chisels and both seemed nice and I have also read good reviews for both but I like the looks of the veritas over the LN on an aesthetic level only but the steel of the Japanese chisels (white paper) seems to be the ultimate for taking and edge (again only from reviews I'v read) and the Ashley iles are more budget friendly but again have some good write ups so I'm still not sure which way to go.


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## MBcarpentry (14 Mar 2016)

AJB Temple":3b6yebh1 said:


> Meant to add. Tried Narex. Excellent value for money. Cheap and nasty handles though so if that matters you would need to turn some new ones. I use mine (or rather abuse them) on green oak with a hammer. They take a lot of punishment as there is a lot of metal and hefty handles that you won't mind hurting.
> 
> Looked at Blue Spruce Toolworks and drooled over these expensive chisels. Too beautiful to use, so I didn't buy any! probably will one day. The handles are far nicer than anyone else's and the standard of finish is exceptional. So is the price. But....in practice you probably only use 2 or 3 chisels a lot, so maybe just buy the ones you use most rather than sets.



Yeah I'v looked at the blue spruce chisels also but there a bit rich for me, beautiful chisels with the Curley maple handles but as you say maybe to nice to use. 
I'v looked on the classic tools site before some nice stuff on there, the Japanese bench chisels they stock look real nice but a nearer the £100 each mark.


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## MIGNAL (14 Mar 2016)

I've had a set of the Ashley Iles for about 4 or 5 years? or whenever the Mk II 's surfaced. They are a very accurately made chisel at a very good price. They have an expensive feel about them and the lands are fine. Hard to fault them really. I use them pretty much every single day.


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## Klaus Kretschmar (14 Mar 2016)

My main bench chisels have been for years a set of Iyorois. To me rather good quality. Easy to sharpen and good edge holding capability. Now I've got a set of Veritas PM-V 11 ones for about 2 years. The edge holding capability of these is better - and they can be sharpened to a keen edge easily. Compared to the Japanese ones, the LV chisels are standing out with their very little lands. While dovetailing this feature is shining bright. When I got them I was reluctant to use them for harder chopping work because the handles aren't reinforced with ferrules at the top. No issue at all however. The heat treated handles stand hard chopping work with ease as I found out. I still like the Iyorois but my mainly used bench chisels now are the LV ones without any doubt. 

Klaus


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## MBcarpentry (14 Mar 2016)

MIGNAL":1scvocqh said:


> I've had a set of the Ashley Iles for about 4 or 5 years? or whenever the Mk II 's surfaced. They are a very accurately made chisel at a very good price. They have an expensive feel about them and the lands are fine. Hard to fault them really. I use them pretty much every single day.



They look nice chisels, David Barron furniture recommends them as a great value dovetailing chisel too


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## MBcarpentry (15 Mar 2016)

Klaus Kretschmar":1dsagiiq said:


> My main bench chisels have been for years a set of Iyorois. To me rather good quality. Easy to sharpen and good edge holding capability. Now I've got a set of Veritas PM-V 11 ones for about 2 years. The edge holding capability of these is better - and they can be sharpened to a keen edge easily. Compared to the Japanese ones, the LV chisels are standing out with their very little lands. While dovetailing this feature is shining bright. When I got them I was reluctant to use them for harder chopping work because the handles aren't reinforced with ferrules at the top. No issue at all however. The heat treated handles stand hard chopping work with ease as I found out. I still like the Iyorois but my mainly used bench chisels now are the LV ones without any doubt.
> 
> Klaus


Thanks for your view on the pmv11's these are also very nice chisels I'm a bit spoils for choice


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## Biliphuster (15 Mar 2016)

I have the Ashley Iles chisels and like them a lot. I prefer my Robert Sorby boxwood handled ones (they are just about the only chisels to come with nice carver pattern boxwood handles) because the handles are bigger and the edge holding capability is just as good if not better. 

Having handled but not used the LN and LV ones I don't think you will disappointed with any of the choices you have listed.


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## MBcarpentry (15 Mar 2016)

Biliphuster":kchg0kfi said:


> I have the Ashley Iles chisels and like them a lot. I prefer my Robert Sorby boxwood handled ones (they are just about the only chisels to come with nice carver pattern boxwood handles) because the handles are bigger and the edge holding capability is just as good if not better.
> 
> Having handled but not used the LN and LV ones I don't think you will disappointed with any of the choices you have listed.



Thanks for the input I think the veritas chisels are in the lead at the min.


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (15 Mar 2016)

MBcarpentry":26rkwd0p said:


> Looking to treat myself to a new set of chisels, looking a a few different offerings but not sure which one to go for been looking at the Veritas pmv 11, lie Nielsen socket chisels and some Japanese chisels ( not real high end ones) all are around the same sort of money (around £250 for a set of 5) are any of you guys using any of these chisels and what are your thoughts? or using something else that is of nice quality for the same sort of money?



In my opinion, it comes down to what you want the chisels to do and how you like to do this.

For example, Japanese bench chisels have the best steel - even the mediocre ones hold a sharp edge longer than just about any Western chisel. However they are designed to be used with a steel hammer (gennou). There are Japanese paring chisel (slicks) which are pushed, but then they are never struck. Further, most Japanese bench chisels are not designed for dovetailing. However you can find some that are. I've been using Koyamaichi dovetail chisels for at least 10 years, and they are superb at edge holding and beautifully made for their price (about the same as a LN or LV chisel).

Of the Western chisels, the ones I most use are the PM-V11 Veritas bench chisels. There hold an edge extremely well - not quite as long as the Koyamaichi, but twice or three times that of any A2 chisel. Importantly, they are well balanced and comfortable in the hand, may be pushed or hit, and are superb with dovetails. 

I've used the LN on occasions, and have a set of old Stanley #750s from which they came. I did not like the Stanley/LN handle, and made my own longer handles. While I consider the comfort when using a chisel more important than the steel, per se, I work with hard woods and the steel becomes important as well. For this reason, the A2 of LN would be an issue. I have a set of Blue Spruce detail/dovetail chisels in A2, and they hardly get used anymore. Yet they have the finest handles I have used. The BS are light, however, and this will polarise users.

Regards from Perth

Derek


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## MBcarpentry (15 Mar 2016)

Derek Cohen (Perth said:


> MBcarpentry":3oxhje6l said:
> 
> 
> > Looking to treat myself to a new set of chisels, looking a a few different offerings but not sure which one to go for been looking at the Veritas pmv 11, lie Nielsen socket chisels and some Japanese chisels ( not real high end ones) all are around the same sort of money (around £250 for a set of 5) are any of you guys using any of these chisels and what are your thoughts? or using something else that is of nice quality for the same sort of money?
> ...



Thanks for that info Derek, I am now leaning more and more towards the veritas pmv11 chisels, but am still interested in the Japanese bench style chisels which are struck with hammers can you tell me where you picked up the Koyamaichi chisels from?


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## Corneel (15 Mar 2016)

The "problem" with my Japanese chisels is that they are very hard. They tend to chip more readilly then my vintage western chisels. As long as they don't chip, the edge last indeed very long. But it is a bit of a pain when you must grind out nicks from the edge. In Japanese tool lore it is of course "not done" to grind the steel with a bench grinder, but I am quite relaxed about that. Saves a lot of time on the stones. 

Also, I think the Japanese chisles favor to be sharpened on waterstones, and I moved to oilstones, which is a less then ideal combination too.


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## shed9 (15 Mar 2016)

MBcarpentry":2exbmzdi said:


> can you tell me where you picked up the Koyamaichi chisels from?



You can get Koyamaichi chisels from http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/ they ship to the UK.

Dieter Schmid and Dictum also have a fair range of Japanese Chisels.


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (15 Mar 2016)

The Koyamaichi dovetail chisels have never chipped. The Iyoroi bench chisels have never chipped. Nor my Kiyohisa slicks. 

I have Koyamaichi from the 80's. My recent Koyamaichi came from Stu at Tools from Japan. They are also available from Lee Valley.

Review: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReview ... isels.html

4 chisel steels: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReview ... pared.html

Regards from Perth

Derek


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## D_W (15 Mar 2016)

I use half Japanese, half Western. Unless you know that you want Japanese chisels, I'd go with the iles or Lee valley chisels.

The ln chisels are OK, but they are a carpenter's pattern and the choice of a2 makes no sense in a chisel. They are nicely made for what they are, though, just sort of an odd duck.


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## Peter Sefton (15 Mar 2016)

I have a set of MK1 Ashley Iles that have served me well for 15 years or more, I have put MK11 AI in all our students tool kits and they normally end up buying these from us, some opt for the Narex which are great for the price.

I treated myself to a set of PMV11 before Christmas which I am loving.

Cheers Peter


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## Jacob (15 Mar 2016)

Why not get a selection of different makes/sizes? There's no particular need for a "set" as such. Start with 6mm, 13mm, 18mm, 25mm, each different make, then add to them as and when needed.
Avoid A2 by all accounts - and the top price ones don't give you much for your money. 
Sockets are just an inconvenient retro feature - the handles come off!! LN have spare handles available :lol: (for sale that is - never give a sucker an even break!).

NB I don't think "PMV11" means anything - it's just an advertising thing like "new, improved" etc


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## MBcarpentry (15 Mar 2016)

Peter Sefton":s5saekz8 said:


> I have a set of MK1 Ashley Iles that have served me well for 15 years or more, I have put MK11 AI in all our students tool kits and they normally end up buying these from us, some opt for the Narex which are great for the price.
> 
> I treated myself to a set of PMV11 before Christmas which I am loving.
> 
> Cheers Peter



Hi Peter
Both the AI and the veritas are lovely looking chisels and get good write ups, but I think I like the veritas chisels that little bit better just personal preference, out of interest are you now stocking the veritas pmv11 chisels now ?


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## MBcarpentry (15 Mar 2016)

Jacob":b7ffc3ns said:


> Why not get a selection of different makes/sizes? There's no particular need for a "set" as such. Start with 6mm, 13mm, 18mm, 25mm, each different make, then add to them as and when needed.
> Avoid A2 by all accounts - and the top price ones don't give you much for your money.
> Sockets are just an inconvenient retro feature - the handles come off!! LN have spare handles available :lol: (for sale that is - never give a sucker an even break!).
> 
> NB I don't think "PMV11" means anything - it's just an advertising thing like "new, improved" etc



Hi Jacob
I think the PM-V11 is the name veritas has given the steel alloy that they use for the chisels. I know there is no need to buy a set of a certain brand as such and I already have other chisels I use day in day out but I'm only after a few sizes of nice beach chisels and as veritas only produce 5 sizes in this chisel range that is what I meant by a set.


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## MBcarpentry (15 Mar 2016)

I think my mind is almost made up at this point I'm thinking i'l be going with the veritas pmv11 chisels, but I still really like the Japanese style also so may add a couple of nice Japanese white steel dovetail style chisels to them over time.


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## Graham Orm (15 Mar 2016)

MBcarpentry":omcxoycz said:


> Thanks for all the replies guys, yeah I have a full set of marples split proof chisels I'v have for 20 years (actual marples not Irwin) which I use on a daily and will continue to do so, but I'm looking for some nice chisels for bench work mainly, I'v handled the lie Nielsen and veritas chisels and both seemed nice and I have also read good reviews for both but I like the looks of the veritas over the LN on an aesthetic level only but the steel of the Japanese chisels (white paper) seems to be the ultimate for taking and edge (again only from reviews I'v read) and the Ashley iles are more budget friendly but again have some good write ups so I'm still not sure which way to go.



Blue spruce are the sexiest, I have a set of Narex for the bench which are as good as anyone needs I reckon.


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## MIGNAL (15 Mar 2016)

A lot of the mid/expensive chisels look sexy when new. When I first bought my AI's I pampered them. Within a couple of week they were getting thrown on the bench because time was running out and orders had to be addressed. Sometimes (actually quite often) you forget about the tools and focus on the making. Now my AI's have picked up quite a few dings, the steel has oxidised and they don't look as sexy as they used to. They work exactly the same though.


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## Corneel (15 Mar 2016)

Derek Cohen (Perth said:


> The Koyamaichi dovetail chisels have never chipped. The Iyoroi bench chisels have never chipped. Nor my Kiyohisa slicks.
> 
> I have Koyamaichi from the 80's. My recent Koyamaichi came from Stu at Tools from Japan. They are also available from Lee Valley.
> 
> ...



Then you are more carefull with them then me. I have five Koyamaichis and often at least one of them has a small chip in the edge (and needs work). That hardly ever happens to my western chisels.


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (15 Mar 2016)

Careful?!  

I wack them into some of the hardest wood used for furniture with a steel gennou.

Regards from Perth

Derek


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## iNewbie (15 Mar 2016)

MBcarpentry":3iq7eci2 said:


> Jacob":3iq7eci2 said:
> 
> 
> > Why not get a selection of different makes/sizes? There's no particular need for a "set" as such. Start with 6mm, 13mm, 18mm, 25mm, each different make, then add to them as and when needed.
> ...



Seven, now - they've been breeding. :mrgreen: 

http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/pa ... at=1,41504


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## Bm101 (15 Mar 2016)

Theres some info on the pmv-11 metal here. http://www.pm-v11.com/Story.aspx It's published by veritas obviously. Take from that what you will.
What's interesting in the case of chisel steel is the claims on impact resistance in the graph. That combined with the edge retention should make them ideal. Shouldn't it? I suppose it would if you measured the world purely by graphs and statistics not experience. How well that impact hardness statistic translates into real use I will leave up to Bears of Bigger Brain than me to decide.
I _think_ pmv-11 just stands for powdered metal (alloy) veritas. Can't remember the number. Year they released it maybe. Bit of a mouthful either way.
Might help you decide anyway.
Cheers
Chris


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## D_W (15 Mar 2016)

The way it sharpens, it reminds me of 440C, and it doesn't rust. It's been discussed on other forums that it's not 440C, but it is either stainless or close (the V11). 

I've had two irons of it, and it's definitely very uniform, and the fact that it doesn't have large carbides means it will be sharp off of anything (still a bit of a nuisance to sharpen on oilstones, but it can be done without too much trouble or extra time if ground well). 

I haven't used the chisels, so I'd defer to what derek says. My experience with japanese chisels is similar. Once they're set up the way you want them set up, you can keep them in shape only with a finish stone pretty close to indefinitely if you keep the stone close by.


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## Zeddedhed (15 Mar 2016)

Not that I'm a major chisel aficionado or anything, but I use a set of Narex 8116 bevel edged for most things in the workshop (Marples Splitproof for site) and Narex 8862 Mortice for making 'gert big 'oles in wood. I'm a bit of a beast with tools and tend to give them a hard life but they're all looking just fine after two years of being walloped with a monster Lignum Vitae mallet. More importantly they work just fine. It should be noted that my work is more joinery than cabinet making.


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## Adam9453 (15 Mar 2016)

I bought one ashley iles chisel to test it, I have since bought a lot of them so I would highly recommend them. Workshop heaven sell pretty much the full range at fair prices, great service too.
They'll complement your 'hammer' filled workshop nicely :wink:


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## Peter Sefton (15 Mar 2016)

MBcarpentry":38uk6zwd said:


> Peter Sefton":38uk6zwd said:
> 
> 
> > I have a set of MK1 Ashley Iles that have served me well for 15 years or more, I have put MK11 AI in all our students tool kits and they normally end up buying these from us, some opt for the Narex which are great for the price.
> ...



I don't carry the PMV11 in stock at present, I wanted to give them a thorough bench test before putting them on our website and wait until they had a good set of sizes which they now do. I have supplied them to a few students including one our current guys, he loves his too. Let me know if I can help

Cheers Peter


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## yetloh (15 Mar 2016)

I'm sure that PMV11 is deliberately meaning less so that LV don't have to reveal which particular alloy it is for commercial reasons. I have always taken PMV11 to represent Powdered Metal 7, rather as WD40 is the 40th Water Dispresant that NASA (or whoever it was) tested.

Jim


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## MBcarpentry (15 Mar 2016)

iNewbie":9e97j0k5 said:


> MBcarpentry":9e97j0k5 said:
> 
> 
> > Jacob":9e97j0k5 said:
> ...



Lol so they are! I don't think I'd be needing the 1/8 or 3/16 though


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## MBcarpentry (15 Mar 2016)

Peter Sefton":wcfsupn6 said:


> MBcarpentry":wcfsupn6 said:
> 
> 
> > Peter Sefton":wcfsupn6 said:
> ...



What are you sharpening them on Peter? Water stones, scary sharp system, tormek or something else?


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## MBcarpentry (15 Mar 2016)

Zeddedhed":1ykfwa7a said:


> Not that I'm a major chisel aficionado or anything, but I use a set of Narex 8116 bevel edged for most things in the workshop (Marples Splitproof for site) and Narex 8862 Mortice for making 'gert big 'oles in wood. I'm a bit of a beast with tools and tend to give them a hard life but they're all looking just fine after two years of being walloped with a monster Lignum Vitae mallet. More importantly they work just fine. It should be noted that my work is more joinery than cabinet making.



Hi I am a joiner/carpenter to and have used marples split proofs day in day out for 20 years they've had plenty of abuse and there still going strong, just wanting something a bit nicer/ more refined now I'm getting into a bit more bench work as more of a hobby. Think my mind is set on the veritas chisels now though.


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## Peter Sefton (15 Mar 2016)

MJ, I have ground them on my Tormek and then sharpened on Scary Sharp, the backs are so flat it only took 30 to 60 seconds (no more than a minute or two tops) on 3 micron to get them to a polish and very flat. From memory they suggest different angles for the different chisels within the range, life's to short for that so all of mine are ground at 25 honed at 30.

I don't want to start WW3 but you may find that unless your water stones are very flat you will undo the fantastic lapping Veritas have already done.

These are beautifully made and a pleasure to use, I wrote a review for Nick Gibbs on the O1 when they first came out, these PMV 11 have a better ferrule interaction than the original O1 I tested. This detail was one of my only picky gripes of the O1.

http://www.peterseftonfurnitureschool.c ... ch2013.pdf

Cheers Peter


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## MBcarpentry (15 Mar 2016)

Peter Sefton":1aceuj2u said:


> MJ, I have ground them on my Tormek and then sharpened on Scary Sharp, the backs are so flat it only took 30 to 60 seconds (no more than a minute or two tops) on 3 micron to get them to a polish and very flat. From memory they suggest different angles for the different chisels within the range, life's to short for that so all of mine are ground at 25 honed at 30.
> 
> I don't want to start WW3 but you may find that unless your water stones are very flat you will undo the fantastic lapping Veritas have already done.
> 
> ...



Nice write up cheers for the link Peter, I have a tormek and usually finish off on a dmt diamond stone but have been looking to get the scary sharp kit for a while now, I already have a veritas honing guide so only really need the plate glass and abrasives think that will be my next buy after the chisels that is


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## MBcarpentry (15 Mar 2016)

Well I called into my local Axminster on my way home from work and the trigger was pulled picked up the 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" veritas chisels  they are having a 10% off your dearest item purchased on Friday so will pick up the 3/4" and maybe the 1" chisels then.


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## shed9 (15 Mar 2016)

Good purchase  

I'd be interested in how these work out for you.


For info, the powdered metal aspect of the Veritas is no trade secret. They compress powered metal alloys into a form or ingot and then it is sintered, (effectively heated). It is a very controlled process and allows for precise tailoring of the end product in terms of hardness and customisation of the particle structure.. Most powered metals are corrosion resistant.


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## MBcarpentry (15 Mar 2016)

shed9":y1issxr2 said:


> Good purchase
> 
> I'd be interested in how these work out for you.
> 
> ...



I'l let you know how I come on with them Shed9, should have the other 2 chisels on Friday to complete my "set"  but on 1st impressions there very nice in the hand and look pretty too :lol:


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## Corneel (15 Mar 2016)

Derek Cohen (Perth said:


> Careful?!
> 
> I wack them into some of the hardest wood used for furniture with a steel gennou.
> 
> ...



That's exactly the thing they are good at, being wacked into hard stuff. The hardness makes them perfect for that. Anything in another direction then in the cuttiong direction, and they are less perfect. So I guess that I am less carefull in that respect, not levering (on purpose) but more ham fisted so to speak. It doesn't happen to me with western chisels to the same amount.

As long as I take care, they are perfectly fine, they especially shine in dovetailing.


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## Peter Sefton (15 Mar 2016)

MB I don't think you will be disappointed they are great chisels.

Cheers Peter


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## D_W (15 Mar 2016)

Corneel":y8fnvc5f said:


> Derek Cohen (Perth said:
> 
> 
> > Careful?!
> ...



Kees, I can take the corners off of my japanese chisels when mortising plane bodies with a heavy mallet. I never work nearly so rough with anything else, though. Usually when I have such a problem (taking corners off of chisels), it's because the angle is a little bit too shallow for abusive work.


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## MBcarpentry (15 Mar 2016)

Thanks Peter, they seem very nice at 1st glance i'l give them a go through the week, i'l have a look on your shop at the scary sharp kit might get an order in tomorrow :wink:


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## Corneel (15 Mar 2016)

For morticing my planes I use an old Dutch framers chisel, a 3/4" I believe. That thing is brilliant, survives easilly an entire mortice without any damage to the edge and still sharp to pair the sides. I do drill a relief hole in the middle though, maybe that makes it easier on the chisel. After that a bit f stropping brings it back to full sharpness.


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## MBcarpentry (18 Mar 2016)

Picked up the rest of the set today at the Axminster 10% off event


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## shed9 (18 Mar 2016)

They look the mutts nuts 8)


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## MBcarpentry (18 Mar 2016)

Lovely chisels mate not had a proper go with them yet but pared some oak end grain and they took some lovely fine shavings off with ease and that was without any honing just straight out of the packet, will give them a hone over the weekend and do a bit work with them i'l let you know how they perform mate


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## Klaus Kretschmar (18 Mar 2016)

Congrats, you hardly will be disappointed with these tools. They have lifetime quality for sure.

Klaus


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (19 Mar 2016)

MBcarpentry":2vm0raur said:


> Picked up the rest of the set today at the Axminster 10% off event



I would advise that you dull the lands from about 1" back - otherwise you will slice up your fingers :shock: DAMHIK!






Regards from Perth

Derek


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## shed9 (19 Mar 2016)

I think this has pretty much been a decider for me, Veritas chisels it is. They look superb and I was always a little hesitant on the A2 of the LN's.


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## Graham Orm (19 Mar 2016)

MBcarpentry":2d0xnuc7 said:


> Picked up the rest of the set today at the Axminster 10% off event



Lovely job.


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## MBcarpentry (19 Mar 2016)

Derek Cohen (Perth said:


> MBcarpentry":1etf0c4s said:
> 
> 
> > Picked up the rest of the set today at the Axminster 10% off event
> ...



Yeah it said in the leaflet that comes with them to do that, and yeah they'd have your fingers the lands are sharp.


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## MBcarpentry (19 Mar 2016)

shed9":3nvc9wxn said:


> I think this has pretty much been a decider for me, Veritas chisels it is. They look superb and I was always a little hesitant on the A2 of the LN's.



You won't be disappointed with them mate, I have a couple of Lie Nielsen planes and love them that's what made me look at there chisels but I much prefer the veritas chisels now I handled them both.


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