# Finish for Ash?



## TrimTheKing (19 May 2010)

Afternoon all

I am making a bed in ash and reading lots of horror stories of wee-wee coloured wood after oiling. Any tried and tested finishes out there that won't give me the dreaded mellow yellow?

I've got some of the magic hard wax oil so I'm going to try a test piece of that, and will try testers of all my finishes to see what's what, but any pointers would be appreciated muchos gracias.

Cheers

Mark


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## wizer (19 May 2010)

Use Danish Oil, It looks fantastic!................................ :shock: 

A Good water based Acrylic Lacquer would be a good option. Or you could use ultra blonde shellac (or both).


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## Karl (19 May 2010)

I'd go with a lacquer. I've used Chestnut Melamime Lacquer with good results. Use in a well ventilated space though, or with a good mask with vapour protection, or you'll have a headache after 5 mins. DAMHIKT  

I could bring some round to yours if you like to do a test - i've got a "few" DVD's to return :lol: 

Cheers

Karl


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## wizer (19 May 2010)

Karl":2wr1n0ww said:


> i've got a "few" DVD's to return :lol:
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Karl



:lol:


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## yetloh (19 May 2010)

Danish oil variws a lot between makes but I wouldn't use any of them on Ash. Water based is OK and probably fine for a bed, it adds the least colour of any finish but can look cold and it does rob wood of some of its lustre. 

I agree that lacquer is the best choice if you can cope with it. Ideally it should be sprayed (outdoors if you don't have an explosion proof cabinet or spray room) because it dries very quickly, but it can be brushed on if you work fast and don't try to brush it out. One advantage of it is that it is a high build finish so a good thickness can be achieved quickly. Don't worry too much about flatness, just get the finish on and then cut back gently with a cabinet scraper. This is much quicker than sanding and all but dust free. You can then bring it to whatever level of sheen you want with very fine papers and/or wire wool


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## Sgian Dubh (19 May 2010)

yetloh":3h2r4300 said:


> I agree that lacquer is the best choice if you can cope with it... One advantage of it is that it is a high build finish so a good thickness can be achieved quickly.



yetloh, what kind of lacquer do you mean is a high build finish? The pre-cat and post-cat lacquers, both best applied with a spray gun really, are not of that type. The total dry film thickness of these polish types should not exceed about 150 microns, which is about the same thickness as the diameter of 1-1/2 typical head hairs. Exceeding that dry film thickness leads to cracking, or the even worse Chinese writing fault. 

However your brushing method can work on small items, assuming heavy cutting back is part of the regime, because getting a reasonably level film on with a brush requires putting the stuff on far too thickly really, so that the polish can flow out and level reasonably well, in order to obscure the brush marks. Slainte.


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## yetloh (20 May 2010)

Sgian Dubh":lkghf8h6 said:


> yetloh":lkghf8h6 said:
> 
> 
> > I agree that lacquer is the best choice if you can cope with it... One advantage of it is that it is a high build finish so a good thickness can be achieved quickly.
> ...



That's interesting. I use Morrells pre-cat melamine lacquer and had always understood it to be high build, certainly they advertise it as high solids, but perhaps that is different. I have had no problems with cracking. My main point in referring to brushing was that it is perfectly possible to brush it and that achieving a level surface is not vital because it can be cut back with a cabinet scraper. This is quick and effective and not something I have seen suggested elsewhere. It enables these lacquers, for which in my opinion there is presently no satisfactory substitute, to be used without the need for spraying facilities.

Jim


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