# Best way to store planes?



## Stan (15 Mar 2021)

What is the best way to store planes? New boy here starting out, and I don't want to wreck my investment in tools through ignorance.

I don't mean caring for them with oil/wax etc, but should they be flat, on their side, on end(!) ? Or what? Does storing them the wrong way eventually distort them? 

I'm not asking for display purposes, but for workshop use.

Thanks in advance.


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## Jacob (15 Mar 2021)

Just pile them up somewhere dry. 
You could lie them down all aligned towards Sheffield perhaps.


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## Doug B (15 Mar 2021)

It really doesn’t matter, flat, side, end, all mine sit on a shelf with a slip of wood under the toe to keep the blade off the shelf, it just seems logical to me but others will disagree.
Keeping them clean & dry is far more important.


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## D_W (15 Mar 2021)

Keep your really nice ones in a dry living area for now. For the rest, if you manage to get an older tool with bare surfaces, keep it somewhere and see if it rusts .If it does, put it somewhere else until it doesn't. 

It's hard to work much with tools if you're not working with them every day and rust becomes a real consideration. Learned this the hard way about 15 years ago after getting a set of premium planes - it seemed like checking for rust would be a sort of always looking for it thing (it is if you use waterstones only and have an unheated shop). 

I got less nice tools over time and started using oilstones and that went away. Oil in an amount that will be on your hands and protect against rust and so on is very persistent - and in an amount that you generally won't see on finishes. Strange thing how much using oilstones cuts down on rust, even after you wipe a tool off (you have to wipe about 10 times with clean sections of a cloth to really get every last bit of oil off, and you don't want to do that, anyway).


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## fezman (15 Mar 2021)

I use my planes all the time and clean them occasionally. They are stored in my single brick garage workshop. About once a month i give them a quick costing of camellia oil and I haven't seen any rust since. 

I recently got a copy of Robert Wearings book on woodwork aids and devices and saw the Oil Pad tip there. Basically, take a strip of carpet, fix it to some scrap wood, and then put some oil on the carpet. You can then store your planes on top of this. I've started to place the oil pad on the bench when i am using the plane, and place the plane on top - not had to lubricate a plane since, as each time i put the plane down it oils itself.


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## thetyreman (15 Mar 2021)

dont put them on their side, paul sellers says it's wrong and not what working craftsman did, I think he's right, if you have a plane on its side and swipe your hand across a razor sharp blade you'll learn the hard way just how badly this can cut you up. I have found keeping them in a tool chest cuts down on rust but doesn't eliminate it entirely, you have to keep an eye on them if not using them regularly.


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## D_W (15 Mar 2021)

thetyreman said:


> dont put them on their side, paul sellers says it's wrong and not what working craftsman did, I think he's right, if you have a plane on its side and swipe your hand across a razor sharp blade you'll learn the hard way just how badly this can cut you up. I have found keeping them in a tool chest cuts down on rust but doesn't eliminate it entirely, you have to keep an eye on them if not using them regularly.



It's weird to see assertions like this - not that it's wrong in his area. He's probably relaying what he saw. 

I spent time around an Amish trim carpenter here at one point and he stores all of his planes on their sides. It'd be a challenge to find many other people still using planes, and he didn't use them much, but I'm sure his ancestors did. 

They're fully entrenched in the world of diesel, hydraulics and pneumatics now to avoid using electricity where it's not allowed (but still have and use planes a little - just more for fitting and not for finish). 

I'll say this, though - a jack plane can take a pretty solid slice out of you. If the cap iron is set on the other planes, the iron won't have enough relief to make much of a cut. I've learned this by experience (at time planing bits when pulling wood across a plane set in a vise upside down - but that's done on any quality work with the cap set as it's a sizing operation, and finishing at the same time as getting to size). 

The only real rule I could say is don't lay the plane iron on something hard sticking out of the plane (it will deflect) and don't put the plane down in dirt. 

A friend of mine who hardly ever uses planes has a "plane bar" on his bench to set the nose of the planes on. I have no hard and fast rules and have not been cut by the jack to my recollection but i have more than once run one of my outside fingers into a dog or something else on the bench, and the result of that is bad.


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## Jacob (15 Mar 2021)

Oily rags are very traditional. You can probably buy them ready oiled from Veritas or Dieter Schmidt.
I should do a video on how to oil a rag.


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## mikej460 (15 Mar 2021)

I'm making one of these this week as it's a good, simple idea. I will fill mine with camellia oil
How to make a Rag-in-a-can Oiler | Paul Sellers - YouTube

and notice that he doesn't put his plane on its side!


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## Inspector (16 Mar 2021)

Keep them in the hangar but if you do have to keep them outside make sure they are tied down.


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## Jacob (16 Mar 2021)

Nobody has mentioned plane socks?


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## segovia (16 Mar 2021)

I made a cabinet last weekend, I'll post a picture soon. My planes were kept in their boxes for protection and it was a pain to lift them in and out when I used them. Note, planes in an unheated garage or shed will most likely rust if not adequately protected.


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## owen (16 Mar 2021)

Best place to store a plane is in a hangar...


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## Phil Russell (16 Mar 2021)

All good advice about keeping planes on their sides; it is what I was taught at school. But, and it is a big but: they need turning every week. Why? Well the sharpening process induces minute molecular level electrical / magnetic charges in the blade which concentrate around the cutting edge. This leads, due to the magnetic forces involved and the gravitational pull on the micromolecular structure of the cutting edge to a slow movement of molecules down the edge such that the bottom of the edge becomes duller due to a build up of micromolecules while the upper part of the edge suffers from molecular migration, again leading to a loss of sharpness. Overall this leads to a dulling of the cutting edge. The only remedy is to regularly turn your planes such that what was the bottom face becomes the top face; preferably weekly. In this way the micromolecules simply move up and down the cutting edge and effectively cancel each other out. The result is a perfectly sharp blade whenever you need it.
Happy to help.
PS: I keep a small magnet on top of the plane to counteract these effects so only need to turn the plane once a month ... bit like fine champagne.
Cheers, Phil


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## novocaine (16 Mar 2021)

Phil Russell said:


> All good advice about keeping planes on their sides; it is what I was taught at school. But, and it is a big but: they need turning every week. Why? Well the sharpening process induces minute molecular level electrical / magnetic charges in the blade which concentrate around the cutting edge. This leads, due to the magnetic forces involved and the gravitational pull on the micromolecular structure of the cutting edge to a slow movement of molecules down the edge such that the bottom of the edge becomes duller due to a build up of micromolecules while the upper part of the edge suffers from molecular migration, again leading to a loss of sharpness. Overall this leads to a dulling of the cutting edge. The only remedy is to regularly turn your planes such that what was the bottom face becomes the top face; preferably weekly. In this way the micromolecules simply move up and down the cutting edge and effectively cancel each other out. The result is a perfectly sharp blade whenever you need it.
> Happy to help.
> PS: I keep a small magnet on top of the plane to counteract these effects so only need to turn the plane once a month ... bit like fine champagne.
> Cheers, Phil


that happens if you leave them on there sole too, non sharpened micro molecules migrate from the top of the iron to the leading edge resulting in blunt blades. it's one of the selling features of a low angle plane as the reduced angle means they move slower.


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## Stan (16 Mar 2021)

When you turn the plane you have to do it gently so as not to disturb the silt. Perhaps if I store them under a pyramid they will self-sharpen?

Thanks for the above. I'll keep them under the mattress with my stash of £100 notes.


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## pe2dave (16 Mar 2021)

For ease of access (and a bit of pride?), make up a sloping tray to take them. You know where each resides
and you can add oily carpet, that funny paper that keeps rust at bay, whatever.


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## owen (16 Mar 2021)

If you're feeling flash you can store them in an egg incubator, the heat keeps the rust at bay and they get turned automatically so you don't need to worry


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## Cabinetman (16 Mar 2021)

Sounds to me as if everybody has too many planes that don’t get used enough lol


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## Bm101 (16 Mar 2021)

The whole keeping a plane on its sides is a bit weird to me. At schools that is one way to stop 30 kids throwing tools about and teach a little tool respect and consideration. As a grown man surely you can place a plane down gently. I can understand keeping the iron up in storage as a precaution but even then unless you are throwing your tools at your plane holder/storage you are not going to damage the iron unless it's in transit. On the bench does no one else get shavings to rest the plane on? Am I doing summat wrong to get shavings?!?
I'm off to look at youtube...


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## thetyreman (16 Mar 2021)

Jacob said:


> Nobody has mentioned plane socks?



I've heard you can put it in just a regular sock, must admit I keep one of mine in one because it's rare I use it and it seems to stop all the rust.


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## Doug B (16 Mar 2021)

Bm101 said:


> On the bench does no one else get shavings to rest the plane on?


in use I always rest my plane sole down in shavings I thought it was just me, when it’s finished with its back on the shelf behind the bench as I described above


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## Woody2Shoes (16 Mar 2021)

owen said:


> If you're feeling flash you can store them in an egg incubator, the heat keeps the rust at bay and they get turned automatically so you don't need to worry


They might also have fluffy babies....


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## Jacob (16 Mar 2021)

Woody2Shoes said:


> They might also have fluffy babies....


Or verrucas if it's unwashed socks


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## Inspector (16 Mar 2021)

I don't like putting planes in a sock. Shaves my calves and a shaven lower leg looks odd. 

Pete


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## Bm101 (16 Mar 2021)

Doug B said:


> in use I always rest my plane sole down in shavings I thought it was just me, when it’s finished with its back on the shelf behind the bench as I described above


Thank God Doug. For a moment there I thought I was a maniac.


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## pidgeonpost (17 Mar 2021)

mikej460 said:


> I'm making one of these this week as it's a good, simple idea. I will fill mine with camellia oil
> How to make a Rag-in-a-can Oiler | Paul Sellers - YouTube
> 
> and notice that he doesn't put his plane on its side!


I made one of those a few years ago and I must admit it's very useful. 
As to how you lay a plane down, I've seen Paul Sellars expounding on this and some of the responses. Jesus. 
I was taught at school in the 60's to always lay a plane on its side with the sole away from you. Mostly I still do that. Except when I don't. Then I prop one end up on any scrap of timber, pencil or whatever. The only cut I can recall from a plane iron was from a little block plane when I was putting it back in its box a couple of months ago. I'm a hobbyist though, so not using planes 8 hours a day.


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## TominDales (17 Mar 2021)

Phil Russell said:


> All good advice about keeping planes on their sides; it is what I was taught at school. But, and it is a big but: they need turning every week. Why? Well the sharpening process induces minute molecular level electrical / magnetic charges in the blade which concentrate around the cutting edge.


Phil, Do you have any references for this, or where you heard it? I've worked in R&D manufacturing and engineering for a while and not heard of this effect. I'm sure the observations are real, but the explanation seems a bit odd, I'd be very interested to follow this up. Thanks Tom


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## TominDales (17 Mar 2021)

I find storing planes on a plywood tool wall near to the bench is most convenient. Mine is in a brick garage.
For years I hung them on their sides, as my excellent school instructor always told us to do that, - too many boys (boys in those days) could thoughtlessly put the iron on a nail or something hard.
Reading this forum and others, I store them, iron against the wall, but the lower part is part is held about 1/8 or 3/16 inch off the wall in a cleat, this reduces tendency to rust from moisture on the wall and creates a slight slope. 
A regular wipe with oil after use keeps the rust at bay. an oil rag, or rag in a tin or oily carpet keeps this efficient - just have it near the bench.
Occasional outbreaks of rust can be removed with fine sandpaper or wire wool - second hand planes often have minor rust, but it comes off very easily. I've not noticed the metal movement blunt effect, but I tend to give them all a sharpening before a major planning session.
If you go for some very high end tools, then maybe a regular oiling, but for most stanley planes and second hand ones, accepting the odd bit of rust removal seems ok to me.


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## Jacob (17 Mar 2021)

Most of the old tools I buy seem to have been kept in a pond. Is this normal?


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## TominDales (17 Mar 2021)

sorry this should be a reply to Jacob


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## TominDales (17 Mar 2021)

Jacob said:


> Most of the old tools I buy seem to have been kept in a pond. Is this normal?


The affordable ones tend to be. Buying second hand tools has become v expensive recently, lockdown and the excellent blogs of Paul Sellers et al have re-kindled the hobby and value of good tools so people are digging out their attics, draining ponds, excavating gardens and selling off their forebears air-looms .
I left my tools ( bought in my teens) in my parents stable-cum-workshop for years while away with work, etc, my father was good with them, but lost interest/distracted by golf..... Once retrieved they all had some degree of surface rust. I suspect most second hand tools are sold by widows (occasionally widowers) sons and daughters of long departed woodworkers, whose family couldn't bear selling them right away and they were worthless then, now they fetch a pretty penny.
Provided not too pitted, the rust comes off with a bit of rubbing remarkably easily. What is not so good if replacing lost screws etc. I tend to have to re-bore with the nearest metric equivalent (and probably destroy the antique value...)


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## D_W (17 Mar 2021)

No advocates for the hang hole yet, huh?


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## thetyreman (17 Mar 2021)

D_W said:


> It's weird to see assertions like this - not that it's wrong in his area. He's probably relaying what he saw.



what's weird to you is common sense to me, it makes a lot of sense, less danger, it stops the lateral adjustment leaver from loosing its setting and it protects the blade as well, I'll continue not putting it on its side until the day I die.


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## shed9 (17 Mar 2021)

Jacob said:


> Nobody has mentioned plane socks?







I'm struggling to understand the efficacy of this suggestion


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## Jonzjob (17 Mar 2021)

This has always worked for me. Simple and cheap














A bit of hardboard and a few rare earth magnets is all you need. Then if you have to take them else where thay are still safe.


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## D_W (17 Mar 2021)

thetyreman said:


> what's weird to you is common sense to me, it makes a lot of sense, less danger, it stops the lateral adjustment leaver from loosing its setting and it protects the blade as well, I'll continue not putting it on its side until the day I die.



It's certainly fine not to. I haven't ever lost lateral adjustment, but I have to admit I've not paid attention to what I actually do (it's a combination of both). When I see the jack plane staring at me near fingers, I'm sure that I turn it up and put the nose on something.

the one benefit that I can think of laying a plane on its side is if there's something on the bench that would nick a blade (dirt or whatever, or perhaps a bit of sanding grit), it won't stick to the wax on a plane sole.

Kind of forgot about this topic as it hasn't had legs on a forum for a while, but when I first started, there were some pretty heated discussions about it and a lot of sharing of fixtures to put onto the bench. I think with experience, the problem sort of solves itself (you'll find what causes problems just by doing several things. If two ways don't cause any problems, it's OK to do both. 

But, as mentioned, misjudging what's in the bench in the way and running hanging fingers into non-sharp stationary things has certainly yielded some ouch here.


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## TominDales (17 Mar 2021)

Stan, another couple of comments. Keep it simple and slowly add to your collection.

Here is a picture of planes on a wall near the bench. Just make a few cleats to keep them from falling off, the lower piece of wood has a groove roughly chiseled out so that the sole is about 3/16 or so off the wall, the air circulaton seems to slow rust. Its very simple to do and you just add to the wall with a few screws or nails as you get more tools.
Another thought, we tend to aquire too many tools, I got away with just one bench plane for 30 years, a simple 271 router a small block plane and a rebate plane. I then slowly inherited some more and bought more on ebay once it was clear what got used the most, having a couple means you can sharpen in bulk and then if you hit a knot you don't have to stop to sharpen. Most of us collect too many tools, as cant bear to dispose of them, but if you are starting out, best to see what you use a lot before buying. The long planes are because I don't realy have space for a large jointer and thicknesser and cant really justify the expense and space.


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## pidgeonpost (17 Mar 2021)

Just thinking about this a bit more, resting the plane on the bench between uses is one thing, but storage when not in use perhaps for weeks/months may be a bit different. I always retract the iron so it's out of harms way and store the plane flat on its sole on a shelf in the bench cupboard. This has led me to always automatically check the lateral adjustment of the iron before I next use the plane. I've not heard of lateral adjustment levers self-adjusting in storage, but it sounds like it happens.


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## pe2dave (17 Mar 2021)

Good points Tom. Sadly, taking a rusty £10 No 4 from ebay, fettling it to razor sharp and gleaming, I found very satisfying.
More so when adapted to a different use (7" radius on blade).
Peter Sellers has a lot to answer for


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## novocaine (17 Mar 2021)

pe2dave said:


> Peter Sellers has a lot to answer for


The pink panther for a start.


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## Stan (17 Mar 2021)

Some good ideas here, and some laughs. Thanks all.


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## TominDales (17 Mar 2021)

pe2dave said:


> Good points Tom. Sadly, taking a rusty £10 No 4 from ebay, fettling it to razor sharp and gleaming, I found very satisfying.
> More so when adapted to a different use (7" radius on blade).
> Peter Sellers has a lot to answer for


I felt a bit sick cleaning rust of my own tools, not so much the plane, but my beloved dovetail saw. They cost me all my savings at that time and were much loved. However they polished up up fine, just leave a stain. Like most people I've spent a few hours restoring ebay buys, provided the fundamentals are ok, the rust is easy to deal with. I was most relived to read a Peter (sic) Sellers blog on the virtues of restoring old tools, made me feel much better about abusing mine.


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## pe2dave (17 Mar 2021)

Doh! ;-) 
Is that 'is brovver, Paul then?


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## Valhalla (17 Mar 2021)

Phil Russell said:


> All good advice about keeping planes on their sides; it is what I was taught at school. But, and it is a big but: they need turning every week. Why? Well the sharpening process induces minute molecular level electrical / magnetic charges in the blade which concentrate around the cutting edge. This leads, due to the magnetic forces involved and the gravitational pull on the micromolecular structure of the cutting edge to a slow movement of molecules down the edge such that the bottom of the edge becomes duller due to a build up of micromolecules while the upper part of the edge suffers from molecular migration, again leading to a loss of sharpness. Overall this leads to a dulling of the cutting edge. The only remedy is to regularly turn your planes such that what was the bottom face becomes the top face; preferably weekly. In this way the micromolecules simply move up and down the cutting edge and effectively cancel each other out. The result is a perfectly sharp blade whenever you need it.
> Happy to help.
> PS: I keep a small magnet on top of the plane to counteract these effects so only need to turn the plane once a month ... bit like fine champagne.
> Cheers, Phil


So, am I right in thinking that if you don't turn your plane regularly enough then there will be so much molecular movement that there will be a metal sludge on your bench?


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## Inspector (17 Mar 2021)

Nah! When it gets to that point it dries into a powder and can be vacuumed up. Keep the dust though as the scrap metal guys will give you a few pennies a pound for it. 

Pete


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## Jacob (17 Mar 2021)

Is there a best way to store screwdrivers?


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## owen (17 Mar 2021)

Jacob said:


> Is there a best way to store screwdrivers?



Pointy end down


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## novocaine (17 Mar 2021)

Valhalla said:


> So, am I right in thinking that if you don't turn your plane regularly enough then there will be so much molecular movement that there will be a metal sludge on your bench?


You only get that if you leave it on a surface ground bench.


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## Valhalla (17 Mar 2021)

novocaine said:


> You only get that if you leave it on a surface ground bench.


Yeah.....I'd heard about that.......


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## Valhalla (17 Mar 2021)

owen said:


> Pointy end down


Well - that depends on whether they are left or right-handed.......and you should put some sort of tray under them in case you get any of that molecular movement thingy going on!!


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## cowtown_eric (18 Mar 2021)

In the truck I have a box of handplanes, 78'71'79'70 3,4,4.5 and others.

Over the years the vibration of the truck can losen nuts and thumbscrews, so I used to have to dig down to the bottom to find the missing parts. Then I put them in little cloth bags. Not only did that reduce the effects of vibration loosening parts, but any part that did come loose is in the bag, and the edge is protected. Win win!

workbench, they are just stored on shelves.

Eric




Jacob said:


> Nobody has mentioned plane socks?


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## skeetstar (18 Mar 2021)

Phil, re the magnet trick, I've been doing that for years and it seems to work. That said I always wear welingtons when planing, to ensure that I am not earthed, that may also be having a beneficial effect.


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## francovendee (18 Mar 2021)

Inspector said:


> I don't like putting planes in a sock. Shaves my calves and a shaven lower leg looks odd.
> 
> Pete


I'm a cyclist and that's the very reason I put planes in a sock.


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## Phil Russell (18 Mar 2021)

TominDales said:


> Phil, Do you have any references for this, or where you heard it? I've worked in R&D manufacturing and engineering for a while and not heard of this effect. I'm sure the observations are real, but the explanation seems a bit odd, I'd be very interested to follow this up. Thanks Tom



Hi Tom. You are a little ahead of me because the full data set has not yet been published. You must realise that to get accurate information the experimental time period must be very long and include all types and sizes of plane irons. There was also time taken to develop the measuring equipment as you cannot simply buy the necessary jigs and microscopes and electron induction oscilloscopes calibrated for such use. I started to build my own measuring equipment using various components taken from the old 405 line TVs at the time coupled with my first Meccano set but it took a while to link this to the necessary microscopes in order to examine blade edges at the molecular level. Development of the 625 line TV helped as they had better resolution. In the end I used immunofluorescence interference microscopy after treating plane edges with various magnetic fluorescent dyes and watching the migration of steel particles along the plane edge with a x100 oil immersion lens microscope (Zeiss) I managed to find at a pre-lockdown car boot sale. In order to observe effects the microscope (and myself) had to be set on its side, just as a plane iron would be in order to observe migration in real life. This took some time as I often fell asleep while watching plane iron edges; especially as the fluorescence microscopy had to be done in a darkened room. But my white coated technical advisors were very good to me as I did this. As an aside, the same effect can be found with chisels but as chisels are not so wide then the effect is not so important.
But after much effort I have finally put a paper together (The effect of plane iron orientation with respect to sharpness over time and the influence of different cutting lubricants used on the oil/water stone) and am promised publication in the new to be released (first edition 01/04/21) Journal of Random Observations in Electromolecular Metallurgy for the Home Workshop, pp 3-118. The Senior Editor is myself.
I hope this satisfies your appetite for information.
You can find the publication if you search for 'Miscellaneous information from the Home for the Bewildered', my current address.
Cheers, Phil


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## TominDales (18 Mar 2021)

Phil Russell said:


> Hi Tom. You are a little ahead of me because the full data set has not yet been published. You must realise that to get accurate information the experimental time period must be very long and include all types and sizes of plane irons. There was also time taken to develop the measuring equipment as you cannot simply buy the necessary jigs and microscopes and electron induction oscilloscopes calibrated for such use. I started to build my own measuring equipment using various components taken from the old 405 line TVs at the time coupled with my first Meccano set but it took a while to link this to the necessary microscopes in order to examine blade edges at the molecular level. Development of the 625 line TV helped as they had better resolution. In the end I used immunofluorescence interference microscopy after treating plane edges with various magnetic fluorescent dyes and watching the migration of steel particles along the plane edge with a x100 oil immersion lens microscope (Zeiss) I managed to find at a pre-lockdown car boot sale. In order to observe effects the microscope (and myself) had to be set on its side, just as a plane iron would be in order to observe migration in real life. This took some time as I often fell asleep while watching plane iron edges; especially as the fluorescence microscopy had to be done in a darkened room. But my white coated technical advisors were very good to me as I did this. As an aside, the same effect can be found with chisels but as chisels are not so wide then the effect is not so important.
> But after much effort I have finally put a paper together (The effect of plane iron orientation with respect to sharpness over time and the influence of different cutting lubricants used on the oil/water stone) and am promised publication in the new to be released (first edition 01/04/21) Journal of Random Observations in Electromolecular Metallurgy for the Home Workshop, pp 3-118. The Senior Editor is myself.
> I hope this satisfies your appetite for information.
> You can find the publication if you search for 'Miscellaneous information from the Home for the Bewildered', my current address.
> Cheers, Phil


Got it.


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## novocaine (18 Mar 2021)

You are a bad man Phil. 

Do you have a subscription service?


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## Stan (18 Mar 2021)

Phil. I've got this bridge over the Thames I need to sell. Would you act as my sales rep for 20% commission?


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## smugdruggler (18 Mar 2021)

And there was me thinking that planes were always stored in a hangar. Well you live and learn


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## Valhalla (18 Mar 2021)

Phil Russell said:


> All good advice about keeping planes on their sides; it is what I was taught at school. But, and it is a big but: they need turning every week. Why? Well the sharpening process induces minute molecular level electrical / magnetic charges in the blade which concentrate around the cutting edge. This leads, due to the magnetic forces involved and the gravitational pull on the micromolecular structure of the cutting edge to a slow movement of molecules down the edge such that the bottom of the edge becomes duller due to a build up of micromolecules while the upper part of the edge suffers from molecular migration, again leading to a loss of sharpness. Overall this leads to a dulling of the cutting edge. The only remedy is to regularly turn your planes such that what was the bottom face becomes the top face; preferably weekly. In this way the micromolecules simply move up and down the cutting edge and effectively cancel each other out. The result is a perfectly sharp blade whenever you need it.
> Happy to help.
> PS: I keep a small magnet on top of the plane to counteract these effects so only need to turn the plane once a month ... bit like fine champagne.
> Cheers, Phil


Surely then, if those naughty molecules keep sliding up and down the blade depending on which way the plane is oriented then it makes more sense to keep the plane flat and keep those critters evenly distributed across the blade. Also, what about if you store the plane in a near vertical position (a la Studley) - will those bad boys worm their way up the blade towards the end of the lateral adjuster and thereby leaving the plane nice and sharp?

As far as laying the plane down - my preferred option is flat on some 3mm ply or some shavings

And as far as plane socks go - I only have lairy spotted pairs.....


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## PGlover (19 Mar 2021)

First post here from the Loon Ranch.
I keep most of my planes on an inclined shelf.
Some planes are in cubbies. 



The heel of each plane rests on a 1/8” thk. strip to keep the iron up off the shelf.

Regards,
Phil


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## Phil Russell (19 Mar 2021)

Valhalla said:


> Surely then, if those naughty molecules keep sliding up and down the blade depending on which way the plane is oriented then it makes more sense to keep the plane flat and keep those critters evenly distributed across the blade. Also, what about if you store the plane in a near vertical position (a la Studley) - will those bad boys worm their way up the blade towards the end of the lateral adjuster and thereby leaving the plane nice and sharp?
> 
> As far as laying the plane down - my preferred option is flat on some 3mm ply or some shavings
> 
> And as far as plane socks go - I only have lairy spotted pairs.....



A reasonable thought, but sadly wrong. It is true that when the blade is flat the molecules will migrate to the edge and so the effect may seem to be that as all the edge is affected at the same time that the sharpness is not affected. But sadly this is not so as the micromolecules fall off the edge leading to a general dulling of the sharpness and a potential staining of the work bench top. They can also be attracted to any chisels within about 93mm of the plane blade where they congregate at the edge leading to general chisel dulling as well.
So lay your planes on their side and keep turning them on a regular basis and all will be well.
You have not been charged for this advice.
Cheers, Phil


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## shed9 (19 Mar 2021)

PGlover said:


> First post here from the Loon Ranch.
> I keep most of my planes on an inclined shelf.
> Some planes are in cubbies.The heel of each plane rests on a 1/8” thk. strip to keep the iron up off the shelf.


That's a good use of space there and nice collection of tools. I notice you're a lefty (that or you got the 51 in a sale  ).


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## PGlover (19 Mar 2021)

shed9 said:


> That's a good use of space there and nice collection of tools. I notice you're a lefty (that or you got the 51 in a sale  ).


Actually, the No. 51 is a right hand. I use the No. 9 as a lefty.

Phil G.


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## shed9 (19 Mar 2021)

PGlover said:


> Actually, the No. 51 is a right hand. I use the No. 9 as a lefty.
> 
> Phil G.


Of course, just noticed the position of the handle. Doh.... No. 9's have sky rocketed in the last 12 months, you will probably get better returns on that than high risk stocks. Nice setup either way.

Can I ask why you went the Veritas route for shoulder planes but pretty much Lie Nielsen for everything else. I'm looking to get a shoulder plane and have never quite decided on those two options.


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## PGlover (19 Mar 2021)

shed9 said:


> Of course, just noticed the position of the handle. Doh.... No. 9's have sky rocketed in the last 12 months, you will probably get better returns on that than high risk stocks. Nice setup either way.
> 
> Can I ask why you went the Veritas route for shoulder planes but pretty much Lie Nielsen for everything else. I'm looking to get a shoulder plane and have never quite decided on those two options.


I prefer the way Veritas shoulder / rebate planes feel in my hands. 
Also, the lateral adjustment of the iron is done with two set screws on either side which makes the setting very precise and secure.

Regards,
Phil G.


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## Valhalla (21 Mar 2021)

Phil Russell said:


> A reasonable thought, but sadly wrong. It is true that when the blade is flat the molecules will migrate to the edge and so the effect may seem to be that as all the edge is affected at the same time that the sharpness is not affected. But sadly this is not so as the micromolecules fall off the edge leading to a general dulling of the sharpness and a potential staining of the work bench top. They can also be attracted to any chisels within about 93mm of the plane blade where they congregate at the edge leading to general chisel dulling as well.
> So lay your planes on their side and keep turning them on a regular basis and all will be well.
> You have not been charged for this advice.
> Cheers, Phil


Chisels as well.....struth....... what's the tolerance there then? Will my chisels be safe from those dastardly micromolecules at 91/95mm from the plane blades? I'm starting to panic as I really don't want my chisels to go blunt.


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## Saint Simon (24 Mar 2021)

I spray the plywood base of my stand with camelia oil once in a while and rust hasn't proved a problem in my wooden workshop/shed.


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