# MFT-Style Workbench



## MikeK (30 Nov 2020)

*1. Introduction*

One of the items missing from my workshop is a large flat work surface that can be used for assembly and fabrication. I have a wooden Sjöbergs workbench, but want to reserve it for hand tool use. It's location makes it of limited use since it is against the wall and I can't access it from the far side. My wife saw me struggling with one project and asked how I planned on building her bookshelves in such a small shop.

After a bit of discussion and brainstorming, we agreed that I could rearrange the basement and have the second 5x5 meter part that is adjacent to my shop. This would become my office, assembly area, hobby corner...man shed. While this will create maneuvering space, I still needed and assembly table. All of the powered equipment that produces lots of dust and connects to the large dust collection system will remain in the original shop, but the Sjöbergs bench, hand tools, drill press and smaller equipment that connects to the CT-36 vacuum will move to the other side.

I saw a thread on the Festool Owners Group (FOG) by AtomicRyan, where he documented his construction of a mobile workbench that uses a full sheet of 3/4-inch MDF for the top and aluminum extrusion for the frame. [Note: I will use the American English spelling of the 13th element in the Periodic Table of the Elements throughout this thread, as well as other words, so no corrections please.  ]

Ryan called his project the BF/MFT Build. In addition to the thread on FOG, Ryan uploaded four construction videos to his YouTube site, The Garage Journal.

Here is the first of the four videos describing his construction, as well as the problems he had with the CNC shops making the 20mm dog holes in the MDF sheet.


_Figure 1.1: YouTube video Part 1 of 4 from The Garage Journal_

After watching these videos, I knew I wanted to build a smaller version of the BF/MFT. My MFT-style workbench would be 1x2 meters and would have some storage for my commonly used Festool equipment and layout tools. I watched Ryan's videos several times and made notes of his mistakes and lessons learned so I could avoid them, or at least try.

Ryan used the 8020 aluminum extrusion that is available in the U.S., but difficult to find in Germany. However, there is a similar source in Germany called item24 that has a great assortment of material, as well as an online engineering tool to design anything from their inventory of parts. The UK affiliate is Machine Building Systems in Ripley.

The item24 engineering tool is cumbersome to use at first and lacks the sophistication of AutoCAD, but it works and is part of the item24 enterprise that integrates the sales, machining, packaging, and shipping departments. I was able to design this workbench in about an hour and rotate it around in 3D space before going to the next step and creating detailed engineering drawings.






_Figure 1.2: Screenshot from item24 engineering application_

As each piece of aluminum is added to the drawing, the software automatically identifies the drill points, adds the hardware to join the item, identifies the thread size for tapping, and builds the bill of material (BOM). For example, when I selected the locking castor and attached it to the bottom of the frame, the software automatically added the two M8 screws and T-nuts to the BOM. When one of the 920mm sections of extrusion was attached, the software added the standard clip and M8 screw, M8 threads for the screw, and 7mm through hole for the hex key access in the adjoining part. If I moved this part along the other piece, the holes moved with it. The parts count was updating as I added new material, and I was able to make quick QC checks during the design. In a couple of places, the vertical sections didn’t register with the horizontal section, and I could verify this because the mounting hardware count didn’t increment as it should. A quick digital jiggle of the part, and it joined correctly and the parts count incremented.

When I was satisfied with the design, I went to the next step to create the build package that would be used by item24 to develop the cost. The output of this process was a 26-page PDF created by the engineering software. I downloaded the file to perform a thorough QC of the workbench and found two more areas that had not correctly joined each other. It was easy to go back, make the correction, and continue. The PDF included the manufacturing sheets for each piece of 40x40mm and 80x40mm extrusion, dimensions for the CNC cutting and drilling, an exploded view of the workbench, and step by step assembly instructions unique to my design.

Here is one of the pages from the 26-page PDF that shows the exploded view of the workbench frame as designed and ordered. I later added two more horizontal pieces (part number 3v) to support the top.





_Figure 1.3: Sample page from item24 engineering PDF_

My cost for the complete kit as shown, plus some extra T-nuts and screws, was €1,460 (about £1,307 today), which included VAT and shipping. This does not include the cost for the 19mm Valchromat top, 10mm plywood shelf, 12 and 15mm plywood for drawers, shelves, and partitions, the drawer slides and other assorted hardware. I could have bought the extrusion in 3-meter sections and done all of the cutting, drilling, and tapping myself, but this is something I am quite comfortable paying for and letting someone else deal with the cleanup.

To give an idea of the flash to bang on this part of the project, here is the timeline for the first order from item24:

6 October 2020: Submitted online design
7 October 2020: Received confirmation from item24 with the formal offer
7 October 2020: I confirmed the offer and submitted a second request for additional hardware (screws and T-nuts)
8 October 2020: Received confirmation from item24 with the formal offer on the additional hardware
8 October 2020: I confirmed the offer and requested the extra hardware be included with the first order
14 October 2020: Shipment of four packages from item24 received!

Now the fun begins...but first, here is the final product.






_Figure 1.4: Photo of completed workbench_


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## MikeK (30 Nov 2020)

*2. Design and Test Fit*

Here are the four packages that arrived from item24. Three were delivered by a freight forwarder, and the smallest package came through the mail. The long package was the heaviest at 66 KG.





_Figure 2.1: Photo of the item24 shipment as received_


After unpacking everything for the inventory, I was happy to see labels on each machined piece that included the order number, part number that matched the exploded view above, and the item description. As expected, the shipment was complete and ready for assembly.





_Figure 2.2: Photo of the item24 shipment ready for inventory_


I assembled everything the same evening (please excuse the cluttered room). From start to finish, it took me about and hour and a half to complete the assembly. Nothing is torqued to specs at this time, and I have to take about half of it apart to install the partitions for the shelf and drawer sections. In typical German engineering, there were no parts left over. During the assembly, I dropped one of the frame attachment screws and it rolled under some shelves. This wouldn't be a problem because there would surely be spare hardware in the parts bag. I had to retrieve the screw from under the shelves.

I assembled the workbench so I could verify all of the internal dimensions before I start cutting plywood sheets. It's a good thing, because somewhere in my SketchUp plans I was off by 20mm in three places because I forgot to account for the center offset of the 40x40mm extrusion.

I was considering not using the center wheels on my tiled floor, but there is no rocking. The double-locking casters on the corners do a great job and it takes a lot of force to make the empty chassis to slide. Once it is weighted down with tools and wood panels, it will be more difficult to move.

This was also the time that I realized the spacing on the top horizontal support beams might be too much for the abuse I plan on giving this workbench. I ordered two more 920mm sections of the 40x40 extrusion, complete with standard hardware and machining. Because I was moving the two existing beams as well, I bought the drilling jig so I could drill the 7mm through holes in the long 80x40 extrusion. I could have done this freehand, but the drilling jig makes it a no-brainer; although it was an extra €115 (about £103 today). The total invoice for the jig, two extra pieces of extrusion, and two hex keys was €225.17 (about £202), which includes VAT and shipping. This order arrived four days after I created the request.





_Figure 2.3: Photo of the assembled workbench frame_


I bought the 12mm and 15mm plywood for the partitions, drawer slide support slats, and the three drawers on the end. I will be using 10mm plywood for the shelf under the top Valchromat panel and will work on the side drawers later. I am using 400mm full extension drawer slides for the Systainer shelves along the side, and and 500mm full extension drawer slides for the three drawers on the end. After I ordered the slides, I changed my mind and made four drawers for the end, so I had to order another batch of slides.

Here is the SketchUp view of the original design without the Valchromat top. I couldn't find suitable castors in the online 3D Warehouse, so please imagine there are six castors on the base. This view shows the revised horizontal support beams. These are placed so they are between rows of dog holes. The vertical slats build out the partition for the drawer slides.





_Figure 2.4: Screenshot from SketchUp showing the original design with three end drawers_


After taking inventory of my markup and measuring tools, I realized I needed three 100mm high drawers, and a deeper drawer for everything else. Here is the SketchUp view of the revised design. The hole in the side partition is for the electrical outlet I will install for utility power. There is a matching hole on the other side and another in the rear panel.





_Figure 2.4: Screenshot from SketchUp showing the modification for the extra end drawer and electrical outlet port_


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## MikeK (30 Nov 2020)

*3. Milling Access Slots for Clamps*

It's a shame to waste the 8mm T-track on every surface of the workbench, but most of them are closed at both ends where the extrusion joins another piece. To make these tracks available, I followed Ryan's advice and milled a keyhole slot in one end of each track. I have never done this before, but it turned out to be much easier than I thought it would be.

I ordered two 8mm four-fluted TiAlN end mills (titanium-aluminum-nitride) for use in my OF 1010 router. The cutter fit perfectly in the Festool 484176 13.8mm copy ring for the OF 1010.

I made the template so I could mill two pieces of extrusion in the same setup. Unlike Ryan's design, I started the cutting about 10mm from the end of the extrusion so there were no extra gaps at the points where the extrusion intersects another piece. The long slot accepts the Festool clamp and the larger hole accepts the head of an M8 carriage bolt. The square shank of the carriage bolt slides in the 8mm slot and prevents the bolt from turning. This will be useful when making custom fixtures. I used a scrap piece of 12mm plywood so I could recess the screw heads that attach the template to the extrusion.





_Figure 3.1: Photo of the routing template_


Here is the finished template showing the slots to be milled and the four recessed holes for the T-track hardware. I later drilled a 6mm inspection hole between the cutouts so I could align the ends of the two pieces of extrusion. The pencil lines are the alignment marks I used for the jigsaw when cutting the keyhole. I used Forstner cutters for the two ends, and cut the rest out with the jigsaw.





_Figure 3.2: Photo of the item24 completed routing template_


Here is an image of the template from the bottom, showing two pieces of extrusion ready to be cut. The plywood cleat keeps the center of the extrusion in line with the keyhole and makes it easier to fit the parts to the template.





_Figure 3.3: Photo of the bottom of the routing template_


The OF 1010 handled the cutting easily. There were three cutting passes and one cleaning pass. I applied a little paste wax to the template to make the router slide better.





_Figure 3.4: Photo of the milling in progress_


Another pair of vertical support extrusions are done. After cutting a total of 22 keyhole slots, I broke the edges with a few passes of 320-grit sandpaper. 






_Figure 3.5: Photo of the final pair of extrusions being milled_


This is a closeup of the 80x40mm extrusion on the ends of the workbench. Now I can assemble the chassis for the next phase, which includes dry-fitting the partitions.





_Figure 3.6: Photo showing a closeup of the keyhole slots milled in the extrusion_


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## MikeK (30 Nov 2020)

*4. Preparing Plywood Partitions and Panels*

Now it's time to cut the plywood for the partitions and drawer slide slats. Here is the 12 and 15mm plywood cut to dimension. The partitions will ride in the 8mm channel, so each edge will require a 10mm wide rabbett with different depths, depending on if the partition is an inner or outer.





_Figure 4.1: Photo of plywood cut to measure_


I used my router table to mill the 10mm rabbet into the edges of each partition. The Jessem Clear-Cut guides worked surprisingly well in keeping the panel firmly in contact with the fence and table top during the cut. I didn't have any problem feeding the panels through the cutter. The three inner partitions have rabbets on the bottom and two sides, but not the top. The 10mm shelf will ride on the top of these panels. The side panels and end panel have rabbets on all edges because they fit in the 8mm slots on all sides. I sanded everything to 150 grit and used Titebond II glue and brads to hold the vertical slats to the partitions. After stacking the freshly assembled partitions on the floor, I loaded them up with about 300KG of weight overnight.





_Figure 4.2: Photo showing rabbet being cut into partition edge _


The last dry fit to make sure everything fits as designed and locate the outlet boxes for the dual receptacles. The rabbetted corners of each panel that fit in the channel had to be cut off in order to clear the joining hardware for the extrusion. I will take the top section apart so I can remove the partitions for painting. There will be a cable access groove in the middle of the top edge of each partition so the electrical cable can run down the center of the workbench and attach to the underside of the 10mm shelf. The two additional support beams for the Valchromat top panel are seen in this photo. 





_Figure 4.3: Photo showing fitting of partitions in the frame_


Views of the receptacle boxes. The top drawer slide is well below the bottom of the box. The back of the box will not interfere with the side drawer panel. 






_Figure 4.4: Photo showing electrical box position_






_Figure 4.5: Photo showing electrical box and duplex outlet position_







_Figure 4.6: Photo showing duplex outlet on end panel_



Closeup view of the front right corner of the workbench showing the number of clamp access slots. The extrusion is loosely fitted, but will be better aligned during the final assembly.





_Figure 4.7: Photo showing corner assembly_


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## MikeK (30 Nov 2020)

*5. Painting, Electrical Distribution, and Assembly*

The first coat of light gray paint on the partitions after two coats of primer on all surfaces. All external surfaces, those that can be clearly seen, have two coats of light gray paint, with sanding between the primer and first coat. All internal surfaces have one coat of gray. After all, it is a workbench, not a piece of fine furniture.





_Figure 5.1: Photo showing the painted partitions_



As stated earlier, my original had a 100mm, 150mm, and 212mm full-width drawer on the end. After inventorying the tools I know I will be putting in these drawers, I changed the design to three 100mm drawers and a 150mm drawer on the bottom. I didn't have enough 500mm full-extension slides when this photo was taken, but I pre-drilled the holes for mounting the slides when they arrive. Although not shown in this photo, I installed the lower drawer slides for the Systainer shelves on the other partitions. It is much easier to install the slides when the partition is accessible. For the rest of the slides, I'll use pieces of appropriately sized plywood as a spacer for each additional slide using the bottom slide as the reference.






_Figure 5.2: Photo showing side panel with opening for duplex outlet_



With the partitions installed, next comes the electrical distribution. There are three duplex outlets and a junction box in the first open bay if another outlet is needed. This is on today's menu, but I forgot to put the junction box and Wago connectors on the table. This installation is fully compliant with German local code, so please use what is appropriate for your location.






_Figure 5.3: Photo showing electrical distribution components_



The electrical distribution is installed and tested. When the 10mm catch shelf is installed, I'll dress up the cable between partitions and attach it to the bottom of the shelf.






_Figure 5.4: Photo showing electrical distribution_



I later added a 3-outlet receptacle to the interior panel under the junction box. This provides the power for the VAC SYS vacuum pump.






_Figure 5.5: Photo showing electrical distribution junction box_



I couldn't decide which cable management method I wanted for the cable, so I left it for now.






_Figure 5.6: Photo showing end panel and cable_



The 10mm catch shelf and the rest of the extrusion is installed. To cover the edge of the plywood, I attached a continuous length of aluminum angle to each edge. The local hardware store sold exactly what I needed in 2-meter sections, so I bought three sections and cut them to fit. The long pieces are held to the edge with small countersunk wood screws that fit in the gaps of the 8mm inner channel. The shorter pieces on the end are epoxied in place.






_Figure 5.7: Photo showing catch tray_



In this photo, you can see the bottom Systainer shelf slides along the side.






_Figure 5.8: Photo showing side view of workbench_


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## MikeK (30 Nov 2020)

*6. Valchromat Top Preparation*

Time for the top. I found a local source for the Valchromat, and surprisingly, the vendor had five or six different colors in the 19mm sheets, but I went with black. The Valchromat is more dense than normal MDF and is moisture resistant. An added benefit is while it looks like MDF, the dust from cutting is not toxic and it does not appear to be as tough on the blades as MDF.






_Figure 6.1: Photo showing top cut to size_



Dog holes drilled and chamfered in the Valchromat top. The UJK Parf Guide System Mk2 made this very easy, but time consuming. However, unlike Ryan's issue with two failed CNC shops, I succeeded in the first attempt. I had all of the 3mm pilot holes drilled in just under an hour, but it took just over two hours to drill the 20mm holes, chamfer the holes on both surfaces, and lightly sand the top surface. 

The Valchromat is brittle, and almost every hole had slight breakout on the bottom from the 20mm cutter. I didn't notice this with normal MDF. The cutter made nice crisp edges on the entry surface, so no complaints. The UJK chamfer tool dressed up the edges, but it would be nice if the chamfer tool could be used with a variable speed drill instead of by hand. 

The design of the 20mm cutter in the UJK Parf 20mm cutter makes it impractical to use a backing board for the process. For the next version with Valchromat, I'll flip the board over after I've drilled all of the 3mm pilot holes. Then I'll set up the 20mm cutter, but only cut a little of each hole, similar to the scoring blade on my Minimax saw. I hope it is many years from now before I get to test this for my workbench.

After finishing the holes, I checked the accuracy in ten places around the surface with four dogs and my TSO MTR-18 Triangle. As best as I can tell, everything is square. The 500mm slides arrived, so I installed the missing pair.






_Figure 6.2: Photo showing top with dog holes _



I made a slight correction to the table surface while I was marking the holes for the screws and T-nuts. While the dog hole grid is accurate, the baseline I used for the first ten holes was off by about 0.5mm from the first to the tenth hole...or the width of my pencil mark that I used for the reference line. This meant the overall difference was about 1mm over the 20 holes along the long side of the table. As a result, the 10x20 grid of holes was very slightly skewed on the Valchromat board.

I fixed this by trimming the four edges of the board to give a 2mm offset from the outer edge of the aluminum extrusion using the dog holes as the reference. If I do this again, I will use a marking knife to establish the baseline for the first row of pilot holes.

There are eight M6x25mm screws, with 18mm flat washers, holding the top to the frame. After centering the freshly-trimmed board on the frame and clamping it in place, I marked the location for each screw 20mm in from the edge of the aluminum. This is the center of the channel. I used a 2mm drill to make a pilot hole in the Valchromat and an 18mm Forstner cutter for the screws and washers. Then I finished with a 6.5mm drill for the through hole for the screw. I made a dimple in the bottom of the channel with the 6.5mm drill so I could identify the location for each of the T-nuts.






_Figure 6.3: Photo showing top with fence and guide rail_



When I ordered the 60x30 extrusion for the fence, I had not decided where I was going to put the guide rail, so I ordered a 2-meter section and will use the excess on another fence project. After cutting the extrusion to length, I trimmed the end of the fence so it fits under the FS 1400/2 guide rail. There is 11mm of extrusion remaining on the trimmed section, and I didn't want to cut it lower and risk breaking it off. The thinnest plywood I cut is 12mm, so this easily fits under the guide rail when the height is set. If I have to cut thinner stock I have sacrificial OSB sheets that I will use to put under the stock.

I used a Trend CSB/AP30584 tungsten carbide tipped blade to cut the aluminum extrusion. The 84-tooth blade is 305mm in diameter with a 30mm arbor hole. This blade fits my Minimax SC2 Classic table saw and Dewalt DWS780 miter saw. The extrusion was very easy to cut on both saws without using any lubricant. Breaking the edges and cleaning up the corner took more time than making both cuts with the saws.






_Figure 6.4: Photo showing closeup of fence modification_


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## MikeK (30 Nov 2020)

*7. End Drawer Fitting and Fitout*

Each end drawer is 883mm wide and 500mm deep and made from 15mm plywood. The drawer fronts are made from 12mm plywood. Three of the drawers are 100mm tall, and the fourth drawer is 150mm tall. The drawer pulls are from the same vendor as the extrusion, and the drawers are recessed so the handles do not extend past the end of the frame. Since this is a workbench, and not a Chippenmike™ piece, I didn't finish the drawer carcasses.






_Figure 7.1: Photo showing end drawers_



Here are the contents of the first drawer. I used Kaizen foam for the lining of each drawer, and cut around each of the tools.






_Figure 7.2: Photo showing first Woodpeckers drawer_



Contents of the second drawer. The Woodpeckers kit for the Domino came in a Systainer, and I didn't see any point in cutting Kazien for the contents, so I trimmed the Kaizen around the foam insert and declared victory.






_Figure 7.3: Photo showing second Woodpeckers drawer_



Even with the shortcut of using the Woodpeckers insert, this drawer took the most time to prepare because of the angle clamp cutouts.






_Figure 7.4: Photo showing second Woodpeckers drawer in progress_



Contents of the third drawer. The longest guide rails for the TSO parallel guide kit are too big for the drawer, so they are on the catch tray.






_Figure 7.5: Photo showing TSO Products drawer_



The fourth drawer waiting on me to decide what to put in it. Not shown in this image, but I have some of the SE1 heads for the VAC SYS in this drawer.






_Figure 7.6: Photo showing empty drawer_



The fence, FS 1400/2, and the long TSO guide rails fit on the catch tray when not in use.






_Figure 7.7: Photo showing storage for longer items_


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## MikeK (30 Nov 2020)

*8. Systainer Tray Preparation*

The next project is to make the sliding trays for the Systainer cases. I am using 19mm plywood from scraps, and these will be mounted to the 400mm full extension slides along the sides of the workbench. Since I don't have a CNC machine (yet), I used an 8mm cutter and the 11mm copy ring on the OF 1010 router.

This is the routing template I used to make the 8mm deep recesses for the Systainer feet. The plywood cleats are glued to the 12mm MDF (more scrap) to ensure each of the 405x400mm trays are similar. Since I didn't want to be bothered with chiseling out all of the corners, I extended the router bit to ensure the corner of the Systainer feet had clearance. The shelf stock fits between the cleats, then I turn the entire fixture over and clamp it to my workbench for routing.






_Figure 8.1: Photo showing MDF template with cleats_


The first test shelf is done, and the Systainer fits perfectly.






_Figure 8.2: Photo showing first Systainer shelf_



Twenty Systainer trays ready for sanding and painting. I doubt I will ever use all twenty, but since I had the template and a rhythm going, I used up most of my 19mm offcuts that have been gathering dust for a year. I made three trays for the VAC SYS Systainers. These are the original version and have a different layout for the base.






_Figure 8.3: Photo showing Systainer trays ready for preparation and painting_



Some of the shelves being painted. The VAC SYS made the sanding and painting much easier.






_Figure 8.4: Photo showing some trays completed_


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## MikeK (30 Nov 2020)

*9. Final Top Preparation*

Rounding the turn to the home stretch, it's the part of the project I've been dreading. I need to cut a 5mm deep slot in the top of the Valchromat to hold the sacrificial HDPE strip. I determined the location for the strip based on where the LS 1400/2 Guide Rail meets the top. The edge is off center of a row of dog holes, so I measured the area to cut so it is symmetrical over the holes. This way, I can reverse the strip when it is used up and have a fresh surface for cutting.

Here is a photo showing the 6mm plywood strips I used as guides for the OF 1010. The blue painter's tape is an attempt to control breakout when I start cutting the Valchromat. It worked great. I only have two copy rings for the router, so the largest cutter I could use was 8mm. I had to make several passes to remove the 61.5mm wide path of material to a depth of 5mm.






_Figure 9.1: Photo showing routing guide strips_



And now the cutting starts. After the first edge cuts, I removed the blue tape as it wasn't needed for the rest of the cutting. I could not have done this in the basement with my previous Bosch GOF 1600 CE router. I would have needed extraction fans to clear the room from the fine dust from the Valchromat, but the Festool system is the best!






_Figure 9.2: Photo showing routing in progress_



Done! The edges are crisp and the width is uniform along the length of the cut. I had a small piece of the HDPE to check the progress of the cutting.






_Figure 9.3: Photo showing completed sacrificial slot_



One 61.5mm wide HDPE strip snuggly in place.






_Figure 9.4: Photo showing the HDPE strip in place_



Five replacements waiting their turn.






_Figure 9.5: Photo showing spare HDPE strips_



I was searching for methods to treat the surface of the Valchromat, since it won't absorb 15 coats of thinned wipe-on poly like Ryan used on his MDF top. Most of the methods I found were using hard wax oil, so I bought a can to test it on a small piece.

I used this offcut to test the UJK Parf MK2 system, and thought it would be a good candidate to test the oil. It has ten 20mm dog holes and one 18mm recess I made with a Forstner cutter to check the depth needed for the mounting screws and washers. I made two shallow saw cuts across the board to divide it into three sections. In addition to the oil, I wanted to try different sanding finishes.

The top section in this photo, with three dog holes and the Forstner recess, was not sanded. The middle section, with four dog holes, was sanded with P150. The bottom section, with three dog holes, was sanded with P150, P220, and P400. I then applied a thin coat of the wax and let it soak in for about ten minutes. After wiping off the excess, I let it dry overnight. I then added a second thin coat and wiped off the excess after about ten minutes. This is how the board looked about four hours after the second coat. I like the finish of the bottom section, so that is what I'll use on the top.






_Figure 9.6: Photo showing finish sample_



The final preparation of the top. I used a 45-degree cutter to put a chamfer around the edge of the Valchromat top, including each of the HDPE strips, then sanded with P150, P220, and P400 to prepare the top for the hard wax oil.






_Figure 9.7: Photo showing prepared top ready for oil_



The first of two coats is on and drying. I put blue tape around the perimeter of the aluminum extrusion and on the screws that hold the top to the extrusion. I don't want the oil to get on the screws or extrusion. It took 28 minutes from start to finish for the top and six minutes for the edge. When I finished the last section of the top, I wiped off the excess oil on the first half of the table top. Then I applied the oil to the edges. When I finished the edges, I wiped off the excess from the other half of the top.






_Figure 9.8: Photo showing first of two coats of hard wax oil_



The second coat of hard wax oil is dry and I started fitting the Dash-Board Guide Rail Brackets, fence, and tidying up the workbench. I'm not sure why this photo has a yellow cast to it, but here is the finished top with the Dash-Board guides loosely placed.






_Figure 9.9: Photo showing finished top_


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## MikeK (30 Nov 2020)

*10. Guide Rail and Fence Attachment*

I ordered a lot of long lead time items for this and other projects, which included the Dash-Board guide rail kit for the T-track. The Guide Rail Bracket Bundle from Rob Schumacher is a nice piece of engieering. Rob makes them by hand and builds them in batches, so expect to wait for them. There are two versions of the rail, but the difference is the workbench attachment. One version attaches to the Festool MFT/3 OEM side rail, and the other attaches to any side-mount T-track, which is what I have.






_Figure 10.1: Photo showing Dash-Board guide rail bracket_






_Figure 10.2: Photo showing Dash-Board guide rail bracket_



The workbench is complete and the tour begins from the working side. In the Systainer trays starting from the left top to bottom, I have the VAC-SYS SE1, VAC SYS Vacuum Pump, PS-300 Jigsaw, TS-55 Track Saw, ETS EC 150 Sander, and OF 1010 router. The FS 1400/2 Guide Rail is attached to the Dash-Board brackets. I can remove the guide rail and leave the brackets attached. When I put the guide rail back on, there is no adjustment required.






_Figure 10.3: Photo showing working side of workbench_



The bench dogs and Festool bench clamps are In the 100mm high drawer above the sander.






_Figure 10.4: Photo showing storage drawer_



On the end, is the cable storage for the power cord. I might use the open space to attach brackets for the clamps.






_Figure 10.5: Photo showing end panel with cable brackets_



Continuing around to the far side, I have the DF-500 Domino and Domino bin, RO-150 Sander, ZS-OF-2200M Kit, RO-90 Sander, and OF-2200 Router. The 150mm high drawer above the Domino is empty.






_Figure 10.6: Photo showing other side of workbench_


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## MikeK (30 Nov 2020)

*11. Festool VAC SYS Modification*

One last part to complete the workbench...for now. I use the VAC SYS for almost every project, so it will be one of the first tools I set up. Festool makes a metal tray that fits the MFT/3 side rail, but I don't think it will work on my T-track side rail, so I made a tray out of more scrap plywood. The M8 knobs were locally available, and I used a grinder to cut a groove around the threads to accept a C-clip to hold it to the tray. The M8 T-nuts have grub screws that lock the nut in place in the slot. The M10 countersunk screws will hold the VAC SYS SE1 head to the plate. The bottom M8 knob is intentionally off center in order to place the approximate center of mass of the SE1 over it.






_Figure 11.1: Photo showing SE1 mounting plate and hardware_



Since I'm not bashful about modifying my tools, I tapped the holes in the base of the SE1 with the M10 tap.






_Figure 11.2: Photo showing modification of SE1_



The plate is temporarily positioned, and in doing so I found I had misjudged the offset required for the Dash-Board bracket. No problem...drill another hole for the bottom knob and we will not mention this. Ever.






_Figure 11.3: Photo showing SE1 mounting plate in place_



I also used an offcut of the 5mm HDPE to make a temporary stop block to hold the tray while I put it on and take it off. This really needs to be about 15mm thick, but it works for now until I can make something better.






_Figure 11.4: Photo showing support block_



The SE1 is attached to the plate using the M10 countersunk screws. The clips that hold the knobs captive are also installed.






_Figure 11.5: Photo showing SE1 mounting plate_


The SE1 is in place and ready for use. The normal vacuum lines are too long for my use on the workbench, so I ordered some quick disconnect hose fittings. 






_Figure 11.6: Photo showing SE1 in place with OEM vacuum lines_



The new fittings from PCL Air Technology in the UK arrived and were easy to fit. The OEM hoses will go in the SE1 Systainer for storage and use when I take the VAC SYS out of the shop. The new blue lines disconnect and will be stored in the bottom drawer on the end with the SE1 head adapters. 






_Figure 11.7: Photo showing new VAC SYS vacuum lines_


Now the SE1 head stores easily with no hoses to get in the way.






_Figure 11.8: Photo showing modified VAC SYS stored_



Here is how the vacuum pump is powered. I added a three-outlet surface mounted receptacle to the partition behind the pump, so it remains plugged in all the time. I unplug it from the front when not in use to prevent damage to the plug.






_Figure 11.9: Photo showing VAC SYS power connection_


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## Jester129 (1 Dec 2020)

One fantastic WIP, well done. Just one other comment to make - can I please be a beneficiary in your will, pretty please?


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## pe2dave (1 Dec 2020)

MikeK said:


> It's a shame to waste the 8mm T-track on every surface of the workbench, but most of them are closed at both ends where the extrusion joins another piece. To make these tracks available, I followed Ryan's advice and milled a keyhole slot in one end of each track. I have never done this before, but it turned out to be much easier than I thought it would be.
> 
> I ordered two 8mm four-fluted TiAlN end mills (titanium-aluminum-nitride) for use in my OF 1010 router. The cutter fit perfectly in the Festool 484176 13.8mm copy ring for the OF 1010.
> 
> ...


Are those aluminium extrusion 'ends' exposed? Potential safety hazard?


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## robgul (1 Dec 2020)

Wow - that looks too smart to use and get sawdust on it! It makes my mobile bench made from Dexion look quite primitive.

And as George Clarke or Kevin Mcloud would say: ". . . and the budget?"


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## smackie (1 Dec 2020)

Wow. That’s a *really* lovely workbench. Congrats! Got me seriously considering a similar thing for a wallbench as I need a way to incorporate storage for Systainers.


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## Baja-king (1 Dec 2020)

Great Job Mike


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## davedevelopment (1 Dec 2020)

Amazing, definitely the content I'm here for!


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## MikeK (1 Dec 2020)

Jester129 said:


> One fantastic WIP, well done. Just one other comment to make - can I please be a beneficiary in your will, pretty please?







pe2dave said:


> Are those aluminium extrusion 'ends' exposed? Potential safety hazard?



With all the sharp objects in my shop, the extrusion ends are the least hazardous. However, I take your point. It doesn't show up will in the photos, but I did use some sandpaper on 80x40 top rail with sandpaper to break the edges. The vendor sells nice plastic caps for all of the extrusion, which I used on the drawer pulls. However, if I covered the ends, then I would have to mill eight more keyhole slots to regain use of the T-tracks.



robgul said:


> Wow - that looks too smart to use and get sawdust on it! It makes my mobile bench made from Dexion look quite primitive.
> 
> And as George Clarke or Kevin Mcloud would say: ". . . and the budget?"



Anything worth doing, is worth doing to excess.  The only part that will suffer from use will be the Valchromat top, and I don't plan on being gentle with it...it is a workbench. If it weren't for the dog holes blowing out during the drilling, I would be able to flip the top over and use the other side. However, the material is easy to fix with a sander, and the hard wax oil makes repairs easy to fix.

I haven't totaled the receipts, but I think I have about £2,200 in material in this bench, not counting the stuff on the slides or in the drawers.



smackie said:


> Wow. That’s a *really* lovely workbench. Congrats! Got me seriously considering a similar thing for a wallbench as I need a way to incorporate storage for Systainers.



I used the solid extrusion for this workbench, but if I were to build a smaller workbench or a storage rack using the extrusion, I would use the light version that has more hollow areas. I knew this bench would be heavy, and didn't want to risk over-stressing the horizontal sections. The vendor has excellent technical specifications on all of the extrusion, including deformation under load charts for each family of extrusion.



Baja-king said:


> Great Job Mike



Thank you!



davedevelopment said:


> Amazing, definitely the content I'm here for!



Thank you!


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## Droogs (1 Dec 2020)

Fantastic WIP Mike well done you and very snazzy


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## deema (1 Dec 2020)

A truly beautiful bench. Well done


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## pe2dave (1 Dec 2020)

MikeK said:


> With all the sharp objects in my shop, the extrusion ends are the least hazardous. However, I take your point. It doesn't show up will in the photos, but I did use some sandpaper on 80x40 top rail with sandpaper to break the edges. The vendor sells nice plastic caps for all of the extrusion, which I used on the drawer pulls. However, if I covered the ends, then I would have to mill eight more keyhole slots to regain use of the T-tracks.
> 
> 
> Thank you!



I know which I'd prefer? 8 more keyhole slots. 
I doubt your workshop gets cluttered, but a stray lead, a perfectly timed fall and ....
Health and Safety - as common sense? Go buy some end caps Mike.


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## smackie (1 Dec 2020)

Thanks for the tip, @MikeK - I’ll check out the specs. Not too worried about the weight for my bench (as it’s on a solid concrete floor) but it’s worth considering...


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## clogs (1 Dec 2020)

I also think it's something to behold.....
But ally extrusions would be out of my price bracket.....be nice if the total cost was tax deductable tho......
I have similar base benches but they are of steel construction....with a full 8x4 size sheets on the top....
both benches are capable of an Austin 7 parked on top.....
they do double duty as one has an 8mm steel plate top and the other is 3/4 ply....
with steel u can just weld it all together and add extra brackets as and when....
I will be making another similar bench from steel but the drawer/cupboard unit will made so that it will slip into the bench when finished.....cassette style......


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## billw (1 Dec 2020)

clogs said:


> both benches are capable of an Austin 7 parked on top.....



"I wonder how I could test if these benches are solid enough to cope with some vigorous planing? Hmm....I know!"


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## Doug71 (1 Dec 2020)

Amazing bench Mike, you should be very proud of it.


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## Bodone (2 Dec 2020)

That’s a very well constructed and documented project and really good of you to take the time to share. The software is pretty good, even runs on an ipad ok, now just to find a cheap supply of Aly‘ box section!


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## Andy Kev. (2 Dec 2020)

That looks so professional that nobody will believe that you made it yourself.

I shudder to think what something like that would cost if it were available commercially!


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## custard (2 Dec 2020)

Impeccable work! The thing I really admire about this project is how you’ve thought through every tiny detail in advance, for example you’ve planned exactly what accessory items will be most needed and you’ve ensured they’ll be right at hand when required.


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## Ollie78 (2 Dec 2020)

Its too nice!!
you are going to cry when you accidentally saw too deep into it or drill right through.

I am pretty envious. 

Ollie


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## MikeK (2 Dec 2020)

Thanks, everyone! The credit for this design goes to AtomicRyan at FOG. Had he not shared his project and YouTube videos, I doubt I would have considered it. My work is derivative of his. 

I found some more receipts, and the revised cost for the workbench is about £2,750 based on today's exchange rate. I think this is still a bargain when considering the cost of buying Festool MFT/3 tables to have a similar surface area.

As this is not a museum piece, I'm not concerned with accidentally drilling or cutting the top. When the top becomes unusable, it is easy enough to replace. A full sheet of 19mm Valchromat is €81 (about £70). If my cunning plan on drilling the dog holes so they don't break out works, I'll be able to flip the top when it is ready and use the second side for a while.

If anyone is interested, I can provide the SketchUP .skp file I used for the design, as well as the item24 document.


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## smackie (2 Dec 2020)

MikeK said:


> If anyone is interested, I can provide the SketchUP .skp file I used for the design, as well as the item24 document.



I’d be really interested in the files, Mike. That’d be helpful as a basis for thinking about my own design...

Cheers!

Scott...


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## MikeK (2 Dec 2020)

Scott, I attached the .skp file. I use Make 2017 (the free version).


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## Popey (2 Dec 2020)

What a fascinating project and a significant undertaking. You must be delighted with the end result. It is missing one thing though: a leg vice...


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## stimpy (4 Dec 2020)

Inc - redible Mike!! That ought to do you nicely!!


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## tradesman (11 Dec 2020)

HI - just going through the first stages but would like to get the treatment sorted out - are we using OSMO ? if so which one - my bench is f/e ply legs and birch top


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## billw (11 Dec 2020)

tradesman said:


> HI - just going through the first stages but would like to get the treatment sorted out - are we using OSMO ? if so which one - my bench is f/e ply legs and birch top



Osmo would certainly do the trick. For my ply bench I'm using shellac (except on the top, not sure what I'll do with that yet).


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## pe2dave (11 Dec 2020)

I used this teak oil. Whatever, suggest use a short hair roller? Roll over holes to keep clear?
Even then, I have a piece of dowel with sandpaper to clean out those which received a bit of
sealant.


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## MikeK (11 Dec 2020)

tradesman said:


> HI - just going through the first stages but would like to get the treatment sorted out - are we using OSMO ? if so which one - my bench is f/e ply legs and birch top



I wanted to use Osmo hard wax oil satin finish, but none of the stores had it. One store had the Osmo in high gloss, but I didn't want a glossy work surface. I went with a different brand in a semi-matte, and am pleased with the results.



pe2dave said:


> I used this teak oil. Whatever, suggest use a short hair roller? Roll over holes to keep clear?
> Even then, I have a piece of dowel with sandpaper to clean out those which received a bit of
> sealant.



I brushed my finish on for both coats. I had a 250ml can, and the roller would absorb too much that I couldn't recover. I didn't bother with cleaning the holes for the first coat because the oil was absorbed quickly by the Valchromat and there wasn't much to wipe off. However, the second coat was not absorbed as much and I did clean out any oil that built up in the holes. 

My lesson learned on the second coat was to pay attention to the instructions on the can. When the manufacturer says wipe off after ten minutes, they mean ten minutes. Ten shall be the number. Not nine, except when going directly to ten. Eleven is right out. And don't even think of twenty, like I did.

The oil was not a problem on the first coat because it was mostly absorbed, but after the allotted time on the second coat, it started to set up and became difficult to wipe off and leave a good surface. I was not happy with the finish, and after it dried for two days, I went over the surface lightly with P400 grit on the orbital sander. Then I applied a new coat in small sections, five total, that I could handle easily. Success!


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## pe2dave (11 Dec 2020)

I put on 3 coats, with a roller, no problem. The right roller didn't seem to pick up much at all?
No 'excess over the edge' issues, which I've seen with paint?


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## MikeK (11 Dec 2020)

pe2dave said:


> I put on 3 coats, with a roller, no problem. The right roller didn't seem to pick up much at all?
> No 'excess over the edge' issues, which I've seen with paint?


Do you have a link to the roller you used? If so, I'll try to find some here. The rollers sold locally need to be loaded up before they apply a uniform coat. This could also be the reason why paint is more often sold here in quantities of one liter and more. 

When I was considering a solvent-based polyurethane finish, the smallest can available from the manufacturer was five liters. I was happy to find a 250ml can of the oil I used and still have a little left over after my workbench project.


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## pe2dave (11 Dec 2020)

rollers and foam brushes (same logic) "Less is better"?
HTH


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## Rorton (11 Dec 2020)

brilliant job!


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## Starjump (13 Dec 2020)

Very nice!


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## Andy Kev. (13 Dec 2020)

MikeK said:


> Thanks, everyone! The credit for this design goes to AtomicRyan at FOG. Had he not shared his project and YouTube videos, I doubt I would have considered it. My work is derivative of his.
> 
> I found some more receipts, and the revised cost for the workbench is about £2,750 based on today's exchange rate. I think this is still a bargain when considering the cost of buying Festool MFT/3 tables to have a similar surface area.
> 
> ...



On the subject of cost, I just got an ad email from Dictum advertising something much, much simpler but structurally along the same conceptual lines:









DICTUM Multifunction Table PRO, Hole Pattern X61, MDF Brown | Workbenches | Dictum


DICTUM Multifunction Table PRO, Hole Pattern X61, MDF Brown from category Workbenches with 30-day right of return at Dictum




www.dictum.com





You can only guess what they would charge for your setup if it were available.


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## MikeK (13 Dec 2020)

Andy Kev. said:


> On the subject of cost, I just got an ad email from Dictum advertising something much, much simpler but structurally along the same conceptual lines:
> 
> You can only guess what they would charge for your setup if it were available.



I didn't see the Dictum advertising, but last week a sales representative from Item24 visited me to look at my bench and give me some small corporate goodies. He works at the Hirschberg office, which is not too far from me, and likes to see what the customers are doing with the product. His first question was "You made this with our stuff?" I assured him the answer was yes to both questions, and showed him inventory sheet I had not yet thrown out. He spent about 20 minutes looking over the workbench before leaving.

Part of my basement clearout so I can expand my shop is getting rid of 15 years worth of RC helicopters, parts, and tools and a pro photo studio setup. I advertised the heli stuff on a RC heli forum, and the guy who was interested lives about 500 meters from me. This made collection much easier! He came over yesterday to load up his car, and it turns out he is a hobbyist woodworker with lots of Festool equipment. He has been looking for a workbench like mine since he does not like the Festool version, so I might be seeing him again. Now I have to find a new home for the photo equipment.


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## Andy Kev. (14 Dec 2020)

MikeK said:


> I didn't see the Dictum advertising, but last week a sales representative from Item24 visited me to look at my bench and give me some small corporate goodies. He works at the Hirschberg office, which is not too far from me, and likes to see what the customers are doing with the product. His first question was "You made this with our stuff?" I assured him the answer was yes to both questions, and showed him inventory sheet I had not yet thrown out. He spent about 20 minutes looking over the workbench before leaving.
> 
> Part of my basement clearout so I can expand my shop is getting rid of 15 years worth of RC helicopters, parts, and tools and a pro photo studio setup. I advertised the heli stuff on a RC heli forum, and the guy who was interested lives about 500 meters from me. This made collection much easier! He came over yesterday to load up his car, and it turns out he is a hobbyist woodworker with lots of Festool equipment. He has been looking for a workbench like mine since he does not like the Festool version, so I might be seeing him again. Now I have to find a new home for the photo equipment.


You want to be careful! It sounds like you could end up getting corporate sponsorship or at least being a poster boy for the firm.


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## Fixes (16 Mar 2022)

Dear Mike,

I have read every letter of your build report with admiration and grateful respect. Such a nice job, such an eye for detail, what a nice result! Also, how nice of you to share this all. Thank you.
I actually came across this forum when I finally decided to start building an MFT bench after about a year of keeping a well stored link to the FB/MFT Workbench videos, you are referring to as well. Only, limited by my workspace I would have to downsize it to about 2x1m. And then, as sent from heaven, there was MikeK
At this point I am fully dedicated to start this project, fully inspired by your achievements. If you allow me. Looking at all the available info, however, It would be great if I could ask you a couple of short questions. 

1. What was the reason for you to choose to extend the drawer side panels to the top 80x40 's in stead of to the catching 10mm panel?

2. I am considering replacing the 80x40s (920) supporting the MFTtop ends by 40x40s. This would create a 40mm bigger access for storing longer items on the open shelf. As they are paralleled by another one a bit lower, this shouldn't affect the rigidity too much and there as those last ones are slotted as wel, ample clamping capability remains. What are your thoughts about this? 

3. If I am counting correctly, there is about cm space between opposite systainer shelves. I was thinking to install one ore more 13cm dia hard PVC tubes in this space. That is longitudinally, centered between the systainers, extending from the one short tables end to the 'backwall' of the drawers. This could allow storage of longer items perfectly. Could you share you ideas and this? 

4. As I am based in Belgium we basically share the same supply market more or less. I will most probably order with item24 as well for the initial package, the items you post ordered (top support) and the guide rail extrusion. Did you by any chance keep the file in the engineering tool or a parts list? If so, would you be willing to share it? Also, if you are happy with the slides you used for the drawers and systainer shelves, could you share a link to the store you ordered them from?

I am pretty enthusiastic to start this project. Looking forward to any reaction you are willing to share.

Regards, Maarten


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## MikeK (16 Mar 2022)

Hello Maarten,

Welcome to the UKW and thank you for the kind words.

Here are the replies to your questions:

1. I didn't think of an easy way to tie the side panels to the catch tray and didn't want to add another section of 40x40 extrusion on each side. Additionally, the 10mm thick catch tray fits inside the vertical 40x40mm supports, so I would have to cut "wings" on the sheet to fit in the additional extrusions for support. This certainly could be done, but the lack of side access to that part of the catch tray hasn't been an issue.

2. I don't think there would be any issues with replacing just the end pieces with 40x40mm extrusion, or even the two long top horizontal pieces. I used the 80x40mm on the four sides because I wanted two channels along the top for attaching brackets and clamps. I can still fit my chubby arms anywhere on the catch tray. 

3. Your suggestion sounds like a great idea to utilize dead space! My workbench has about 12cm of space in the center between the backs of the Systainer trays. This can be extended to about 18cm if the slide trays are positioned near, but not beyond, the front edge of the 40x40mm vertical supports. I made sure none of the drawers or trays extended beyond the front edge of the supports so they would not interfere with anything clamped to the supports. I also had to change the two duplex outlets on the sides because the plastic housing prevented me from clamping large pieces to the side.

4. I just edited the first post in this thread to add the SketchUp SKP file and the Item24 PDF. I use the free 2017 version of SketchUp, but the file should be compatible with other versions of SketchUp. Unfortunately, I can't convert the file to DWG or any of the other CADD formats.

I am very happy with the slides. I saw the slides on the German Amazon site below, but bought them directly from the vendor because they were less expensive with free shipping.



https://www.amazon.de/Vollausz%C3%BCge-Tragkraft-Schubladenschienen-Teleskopschienen-SO-TECH/dp/B07Q28F82N



Here is the link to the slides from S&O Handelsgesellschaft mbH. I used 400mm slides for the side Systainer trays and 500mm slides for the four end drawers.









Vollauszug 35 Kg KV2-35-H45-NF 250-750 mm


Vollauszug 35 Kg KV2-35-H45-NF 250-750 mm - Material: Metall - Kugelkäfigführung - Mit Entriegelungsfunktion der Führung (zum herausnehmen der Schublade) - Belastbarkeit: 35 Kg (pro Paar) Abmessungen: Schienenhöhe: 45 mm Schienenbreite...




so-handel.de





I still have the router template used to mill the keyhole slots into the extrusion. You are welcome to it if you want it, and it should work with any extrusion. However, I made the template for use with the Festool OF1010, Festool 484176 13.8mm copy ring, and 8mm carbide cutter. I bought two of the carbide cutters, but never used the second cutter. You are welcome to one of the cutters as well. The extrusion is easy to mill using a router and carbide cutter and making multiple passes.

I don't have the router template for the Systainer trays, but have eight spare trays in 19mm plywood you can have. One is for the original Systainer footprint used by the VAC SYS and the other seven are for the next generation of Systainers. All but one of the trays is painted and ready for installation. The unpainted tray was my router template test tray and I forgot to paint it.

If you are ever in the Frankfurt/Darmstadt/Mannheim area, please let me know. I am happy to let anyone visit and exchange ideas.


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## Fixes (16 Mar 2022)

Hello Mike,

Thank you for your prompt and sharing reply! I committed to first replying and then having a look at the added files in the thread.
As I am using the same OF1010 with (I will have to check or order) probably the same copy ring, I am indeed interested in the template and surely in for buying your spare cutter.
As a matter of fact, I will be traveling from Belgium to Austria (south of Salzburg) next Wednesday (23) with a return drive on Sunday (27/3), driving trough that area, no kidding! If any of these days would suit you, I'ld be more than happy to pay a worthfull visit. Let me know so I can calculate an estimate timing. Is there a way to exchange confidential info like address and phone numbers, via this forum? 

Maarten


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## MikeK (16 Mar 2022)

Hello Maaten,

If you make one more post, you will be able to send private messages (Conversations).


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## Fixes (16 Mar 2022)

Ok, this is one more post. Thanks for that info.


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## Droogs (16 Mar 2022)

Careful Maarten. He might just try to give you a great big lump of noisy useless Austrian metal he tries to pretend is a planer/thickness to dump of the manufacturer's stoop.


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## Sideways (16 Mar 2022)

The only Austrian thing in that is the label (maybe) !


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## Spectric (16 Mar 2022)

That is another work of art, you have been busy and any wood going through your workshop will think it has gone to hospital it is so clinical and it will match the router table build, yet another great build.

Nice to see someone terminating stranded cables with ferrules and using Wago connectors and not chocolate block.


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## MikeK (16 Mar 2022)

Droogs said:


> Careful Maarten. He might just try to give you a great big lump of noisy useless Austrian metal he tries to pretend is a planer/thickness to dump of the manufacturer's stoop.



That "Austrian" lump has a new home in Wiesbaden. I listed it on the fee-free German eBay for local sales at the bargain price of €550, and it sold in four minutes. The buyer picked it up the same evening.



Sideways said:


> The only Austrian thing in that is the label (maybe) !



I suspect the labels are printed at the same factory as well.


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## Droogs (16 Mar 2022)

well done Mike


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## Spectric (16 Mar 2022)

Mike, surprised you did not use any Microjig dovetail slots in your top, for me they have been what has made my 20mm tops so useful. 20mm holes give X & Y at 90° and location but with those slots you have gret clamping and with the threaded fittings you can get any angle on a fence which for some jobs has been a real bonus. I use my Makita rail to guide a router and can set the workpiece at the required angle to get easy repetative housings. Will be getting a proper sled for the router soon from FC tools, that will actually run on the rail and not along it.


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## MikeK (16 Mar 2022)

Spectric said:


> Mike, surprised you did not use any Microjig dovetail slots in your top, for me they have been what has made my 20mm tops so useful. 20mm holes give X & Y at 90° and location but with those slots you have gret clamping and with the threaded fittings you can get any angle on a fence which for some jobs has been a real bonus. I use my Makita rail to guide a router and can set the workpiece at the required angle to get easy repetative housings. Will be getting a proper sled for the router soon from FC tools, that will actually run on the rail and not along it.



Roy, so far I haven't found any limitations when cutting angles on my worktop. The large TSO MTR-18 allows me to set any angle on the worktop in 1/2-degree increments. 

Since I am using the worktop as an assembly table as well as cutting surface, I don't want to risk breaking off the edges of the dovetail slots. I don't abuse the worktop, but I don't pamper it either.


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## Spectric (17 Mar 2022)

I had not looked at the TSO triangle but it is clever, fixed by 20mm dogs and the triangle pivots to any angle, I like the idea and reminded me of a sextant.

I don't have a worktop with any holes, did not like retrieving things that fell through the holes so I now have a solid top with clamp down sections that have the holes and dovetail slots but I treat as consumables, but have never damaged any slot edges. I have Dennis from HOW to thank for many ideas but my new bench is stalled and held up in the thinking process.


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