# Ledge & brace door question



## woody67 (9 May 2010)

Evenin' all - I hope I get my query about hanging ledge & brace doors right!  

Q - How easy (or hard) is it to retro fit these doors in existing frames? I know it's a simple answer if the new and old doors are the same width....but guess what!? The old frames have rebated door stops so can't be removed to accommodate the extra width, so do I try and deepen the rebate (don't quite know how) or extend the face frame? 

Also, can normal hinges somehow be used instead of the traditional T hinges as some of the door face frames have been plastered up to which won't take a T hinge.

Yours in confuddlement

Mark


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## Shane (9 May 2010)

With regard to the hinges, could you not still use t-hinges, but put them on with the a-face on the inside, then the part that would normally go over the jam would tuck into the normal hinge position, but use dome heads instead in account of the reversed countersunk holes?

How deep are the stop rebates?. Any chance of ripping the old stops off and fitting new ones after the door is fitted?


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## woody67 (9 May 2010)

Shane":veko0g2m said:


> How deep are the stop rebates?. Any chance of ripping the old stops off and fitting new ones after the door is fitted?



That's the problem Shane, I can't remove the door stops as they're built into the frame. Is it an old door frame thing I wonder? New ones are a piece of cake as you tack on your own stops...but not these old bu**ers!

Thanks

Mark


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## Shane (9 May 2010)

Routing the stops is one option, but I would be scared sh*tless of an accident! and you'd still need to chisel the corners which is no biggy

I presume building the frame out is a no goer because of the plastering?

Building out the face would sound safer to me, as long as it is fitted properly if the wieght of the door is hung from it, make sure any hinge fittings go through to the original frame, although you probably know all this


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## Shane (9 May 2010)

How about building the frame out to the same level as the old stops, then adding new stops on top of that?, effectively reducing the size of the opening by the thickness of the old stops?


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## Shane (9 May 2010)

Should be ok to fit standard hinges if the timber is thick enough and they are the right grade, also making sure screws are long enough to go well through any frame mods


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## SNight (9 May 2010)

Couldn't you cut your ledges short of the edge of the door, so that the ledges sit back beyond the rebate edge?


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## Shane (9 May 2010)

SNight":wgezviqi said:


> Couldn't you cut your ledges short of the edge of the door, so that the ledges sit back beyond the rebate edge?



Why did I not think of the easy option? :lol:


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## woody67 (9 May 2010)

Cheers Shane Fella....I like the idea of filling in the old stops and trimming the door to size - there's plenty of scope for this option as the braces don't run to the full width of the door. Must admit the routing a deeper stop option didn't fill my heart with eagerness :shock: 

Thanks again Shane

Mark


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## chippy1970 (9 May 2010)

Its definately ledged and braced not FRAMED ledged and braced ? The framed ones would take a normal hinge easily the non framed ones should just if the boards are thick enough.

You can router the stops off I have had to do that a few times when stops are not removable just tack a batten on to guide it and take your time then chisel any bits you cannot get with the router.


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## woody67 (9 May 2010)

SNight":38ekwwkw said:


> Couldn't you cut your ledges short of the edge of the door, so that the ledges sit back beyond the rebate edge?



Not when the ledges are on the back of the door, so to speak, so it's opening inwards........I think! All the other doors are hinged from the ledge side, so the new ones will need to match.

Mark


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## woody67 (9 May 2010)

Sorry Chippy - Meant to add in my original post that the doors *are not* framed,but run of the mill, albeit bespoke, L&B doors.

Mark


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