# woodturning sharpening systems - again



## Shay Vings (27 Aug 2009)

I know this subject has been done to death but the best choices still seem very unclear to me. I am fairly new to turning and have been using home made wooden jigs, notably Rowley's simple table jig and internet designs for fingernail grinding jigs. These work well but it is fiddly to change from table to sliding arm etc as my white wheel is only on one side of the grinder. Also I have to make wooden holders for each different gouge as their o.d. varies

Looking at Wolverine, Tormek, Sorby and others, the starting price seems a bit of a con. I don't object to £70 or so but by the time you've bought the jigs for finger nail profiler, scraper and skew, the price has doubled. 

The only solution I can see is the ProEdge at £299 with all those jigs which is more than I want to pay, plus I want to use with my existing grinder.

I would appreciate some suggestions for the best value product ot meet these requirements.


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## Jenx (27 Aug 2009)

At the risk of incurring the wrath of those more learned than me ... 
when faced with the similar problem as yourself, but a short while ago... this is what I did...

Phil Irons Woodturning - Get a Tru-Grind jig/slide ( about £80, which will shaarpen all your tools )... chuck that grey wheel off the other end of your grinder, and change it for a white.. so you have white at both ends... and use the tru-grind at one end... your home-made table at the other.. and _Roberto is yer mamma's frere_, as they say.

Although the tru-grind will 'do' a roughing gouge.. I like to do it.. and often my parting tools too,... on the table-platform.. hence the reason its there.
Job done. 
A bit of 'expense' and outlay.. but it cured all sharpening woes in one fell swoop, and to me, that was more than worth it.

Others will no doubt have alternative views.. but thats the way I went, and I'm glad I did.. as it "works" for me.  

best of luck  8)


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## jpt (27 Aug 2009)

HI

I know what you mean the choice of what to use for sharpenning can be very confusing and expencive.

Over the years I have tried several different ways including making jigs and even buying a Tormek and all the jigs. For the last 2 years or so I have been using this system.





I sharpen all my tools on it including long grind gouges it is quick to use and works very well.

If you fancy a trip up to Peterborough for a look etc drop me a PM.

john


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## loz (27 Aug 2009)

Hi Shay,

I have the RS delux universal jig, Has a table for skew, scrapers, and straight grinds, and a fingernail for the bowl and spindle gouges.

Cheap enough, and not very fidlesome to change from table to fingernail jig.

I use mine with an el cheapo B&Q grinder. 

http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/universal_sharp_sys.htm

You can get them from many suppliers - i got mine from Styles n Bates, but most of the well known do them.

Loz


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## beejay (27 Aug 2009)

The wolverine with varigrind attachement is in my opinion the best and quickest sytem available. Ive tried both sorby systems, the trugrind, and i still have a Tormek but they are all very fiddly compared to the wolverine.
Dont go Heath Robinson and try to make one,,splash out once only and get what i think is the best system for turning tools( based on my own experience of having tried many others) you wont regret it or want to change for something else at a later date.
Its simple to use and gives you repeatability!
A cheaper copy/version was available from Rutlands.
regards.Bill


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## Blister (27 Aug 2009)

Sorby Pro edge system

Perfection in sharpening  :wink: 

PM me your phone number and a time to ring and I will call you and go through all the other options , I could be here all day typing :wink:


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## loz (27 Aug 2009)

Having seen the Wolverine in action I'd have to agree with Beejay - But it is costy.

Rutland do a clone as stated,

But i juts saw this from an ealier post from TEP in the jigs section.

http://www.craft-supplies.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/CS001


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## dickm (27 Aug 2009)

If anyone gets the Robt Sorby jig, watch out that the surface of the table is dead flat. On his visit, Oldsoke spotted that mine was definitely not flat, which made for problems in keeping a constant angle. Had a go at it today with engineers blue, a straight edge and metalworking scraper. The worst part was where the Sorby name had been stamped into the surface - there was a small upstand round all the letters. Well worth cleaning up

Thanks, Graham! Another upshot of your visit was a happy half hour polishing my toolrests. Amazing the things you don't notice until someone point it out to you.


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## Roy_H (27 Aug 2009)

I'm with Jenx on this.
Did exactly the same as he did, 'cept I splashed out on a 'blue' wheel for the end of the grinder I use the Tru-Grind on, white wheel with a fairly standard vari-angle platform at the other.

Got my Tru-Grind from Axminster, same price as Phil Irons tho' I think. I'm getting on okay with it, but there are couple things about it I would change; the thumbwheel that locks down the flat plate onto the top of the gouge (or other tool) is not designed well. Hard to get a good grip on it with fingers.
Also, the flat plate that presses down on the tool tends to bind on the sides of the guides that keep it in place.
Other than that, works fine - and certainly has saved a lot of tool steel compared with my freehand grinding attempts.


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## Deejay (28 Aug 2009)

Mornin' all

'These work well but it is fiddly to change from table to sliding arm etc as my white wheel is only on one side of the grinder. Also I have to make wooden holders for each different gouge as their o.d. varies'

I had the same problem with changing jigs. I bought a second hand Trugrind with the lathe (still going strong Bill).

I routed two slots in a bit of worktop to hold the keith Rowley jig on either wheel.


http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo3/ ... 282999.jpg


Alongside the white wheel I glued a piece of hardwood scrap into the worktop and routed the sides with a dovetail cutter. Another piece of scrap is routed to fit in the slot and my Trugrind base is screwed to that.

http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo3/ ... 282997.jpg

The Trugrind base slides in and out and the bolt locks it in place within the groove. 

It's still a bit of a fiddle but not a big problem. 

One thing to be wary of is mounting the grinder too far back. If you do, the gouge handle will hit the front edge of the base when it is rolled.

HTH

Cheers

Dave


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## TobyB (28 Aug 2009)

I've also got the Sorby and am generally very pleased with it - but agree also that the TruGrind is very effective and not fiddly ...


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## TobyB (28 Aug 2009)

... and I meant to go on and say that, if I already had a decent grinder and decent wheel(s) I'd probably buy that ... but when I bought the Sorby all I had was a very cheap B&Q grinder with a cheap wheel that was good enough for sharpening a hatchet but not much more ...


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## loz (28 Aug 2009)

TobyB":2io6xedp said:


> ... and I meant to go on and say that, if I already had a decent grinder and decent wheel(s) I'd probably buy that ... but when I bought the Sorby all I had was a very cheap B&Q grinder with a cheap wheel that was good enough for sharpening a hatchet but not much more ...



With a light touch my B&Q grinder cheap wheel has been fine .


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## TobyB (28 Aug 2009)

That looks something like the one I have - without the jigs obviously, and those little plastic shields are both broken off - striking difference is the lack of clamps on the base board ... without 2 Unikramps holding mine very firmly to the bench it tries to vibrate itself out of the workshop. Maybe it's unbalanced wheels that are some of the problem ...


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## loz (28 Aug 2009)

TobyB":vdb61ddk said:


> That looks something like the one I have - without the jigs obviously, and those little plastic shields are both broken off - striking difference is the lack of clamps on the base board ... without 2 Unikramps holding mine very firmly to the bench it tries to vibrate itself out of the workshop. Maybe it's unbalanced wheels that are some of the problem ...



Hi Toby,

It's not brilliant by any means, the plastic shield's fell off, I had to bolt it down to end the vibration, and the wheels did need some truing - but it sharpens great now. 

Can't complain too much, i get decent edges and they only cost 16 euros new !


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## beejay (28 Aug 2009)

> I bought a second hand Trugrind with the lathe (still going strong Bill).


Hi Dave,
Good to hear from you again,  nice looking set up youve got there.
Trust all is well with the lathe and with you too.
Apologies all for the slight Hijack.
regards, Bill


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## lurker (28 Aug 2009)

O'Donnel wheels (blue or ruby) from toolpost are best & cheapest.

And the best jig by a mile - the one designed by our very own Chas

Can someone post a link -I'm rubbish at finding old posts


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## Deejay (28 Aug 2009)

beejay":1n1kfmgp said:


> > I bought a second hand Trugrind with the lathe (still going strong Bill).
> 
> 
> Hi Dave,
> ...



Hello Bill

I've sent you an email.

Cheers

Dave


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