# Buffing wheels



## Bodrighy (6 Nov 2010)

Looking at the Chestnut and the Beale systems they come in at £50 plus for 3 wheels and compound as far as I can see. As the wheels can be bought for a fiver or so each can someone explain what the difference is that warrants the extra cost. This isn't me having a dig, I am looking at getting some buffing equipment (as I am running out of kitchen roll :lol: ) and have been pricing up the different alternatives. In my ignorance I can't really see the difference. 

Pete


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## Bluefoxy (6 Nov 2010)

Hi Pete,

I have no idea but I would be very interested in the answer!

Ray


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## stevebuk (6 Nov 2010)

i think this was covered not long ago here.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/buff ... 45662.html


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## CHJ (6 Nov 2010)

Bodrighy":1bmpj1jy said:


> .... As the wheels can be bought for a fiver or so each can someone explain what the difference is that warrants the extra cost. .Pete



Pete you need to compare Like for Like.
The three 200mm mops are different grades of linen/cotton mix to match the abrasive polishing media.
But one example for a comparable cost is if you look at the 200m version of the finishing mop at Axminster the nearest I have handled that matches the quality of the one I use. £26.90 Inc VAT !! theres a few pence in mounting screws/nuts/washers to add to that.


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## Oakbear (6 Nov 2010)

I've looked into various price comparisons, and reckon i could maybe save a fiver buying bits seperately.
If you didn't want everything in the kit you could save money, but frankly to get everything in one pack and save the headache of working out all the stuff you need, i'm going for a kit....


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## Bodrighy (6 Nov 2010)

Thanks for the answers. It's down to quality of the materials used by the sound of it. I'll go and mull it all over

Pete


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## Harlequin (6 Nov 2010)

I assembled a set (mops .compounds etc) from "the polishingshop.co.uk"
after some friendly advice from them .
IMO works perfectly well 
Have not used the other systems though but the only difference could be in the cloth ,the compounds I think are pretty standard.
How significant the difference in cloth actually is or matters - I don't know.


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## Elaine (7 Nov 2010)

At the woodturning club last week the demonstrator recommended getting the mops from a car spares shop and he then put them on (I think) a Jacobs chuck?? Not sure about the price of them but he said it would be cheaper than buying the kit? 
Not that I know anything about it at all, but as I had the info thought I would share it. I love doing all the research about products, not to get the cheapest but to get the best for what I need.


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## frugal (7 Nov 2010)

Harlequin":217ll3zc said:


> I assembled a set (mops .compounds etc) from "the polishingshop.co.uk"



I have not used them for wood polishing, but I have got a set of metal polishing wheels from them and it worked out to be about half the price of getting the same things from Axminster. Obviously not having seen the polishing mops from axminster I can not comment on any difference in quality.


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## tekno.mage (7 Nov 2010)

Oakbear":m6klb57t said:


> I've looked into various price comparisons, and reckon i could maybe save a fiver buying bits seperately.
> If you didn't want everything in the kit you could save money, but frankly to get everything in one pack and save the headache of working out all the stuff you need, i'm going for a kit....



Likewise - I was going to assemble my own system from parts and like you realised after some reasearch into prices it would only save around a fiver over the Chestnut system and I'd still have to make up my own arbor. Didn't seem worth the hassle for such a small saving and the fact that Chestnut source the parts for their system in the UK was the final thing that convinced me.


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## John. B (7 Nov 2010)

Of course the problem here, is that if you have a Beal set you're not going to buy a Chestnut set and vice-versa. so its difficult to compare systems.

However, all members on here seem more than happy with the system they own.

I bought a Beal system when I was on holiday in the US some time ago for a lot less than you would pay here.

So I think whatever one you decide to get you will probably be happy with it.

One caveat though, all systems need to be 'Run-in' , it gets rid of the loose fibres and fluff and gets better the more you use it.

John. B


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## Terry Smart (7 Nov 2010)

Once again, this isn't going to be a terribly objective view...

It's always easy to buy or do something cheaper similar elsewhere and the Buffing Kit is no exception.

Firstly, as you'll probably know, the Beall system comes from the States and shipping costs and duty etc. will weight the price heavily. We were asked to produce a UK made system to be available at a lower cost...

We designed our Buffing Kit in conduction with woodturners and engineers specifically for use by woodturners; it isn't just something cobbled together from one industry and crossed-over to be used by another.

One of the major components in our kit that hasn't been mentioned so far (I think) is the mandrel, which is probably the most important part of it. The large mandrel is designed to to be easy to fit and to hold the wheels in place (via a chuck) yet allow for a quick and easy changeover.
The mandrel is precision engineered in the UK and zinc plated for corrosion resistance. Each one is hand checked by us before being packed for despatch.
The kit also includes a second, smaller mandrel for use in drills; this will become even more useful later this month when the domed mops are (finally!) available.

The wheels are specially selected for the weight of the cloth to achieve the required job, and the fixings are attached by hand to each wheel so that they are ready for use straight from the box.

Some of the cost difference is taken up in packaging, but even this isn't purely cosmetic; each wheel is labelled to make sure it is used with the correct compound rather than relying on a code number stamped on the wheel (not the Beall wheels). The kit comes with what we think are very comprehensive instructions and of course the whole thing comes in a box with a label on it. There is also a polystyrene tray to protect the smaller parts in transit.

Our kit has won many fans (as has the Beall one) and in another thread last month owners were very keen to point out the advantages of using them over the more 'do-it-yourself' approach.

Ultimately, the cheap and cheerful route can be taken and reasonable results will be achieved; we believe that our system does the job quicker, easier and better.

Finally... Some demonstrators should be shot for the misinformation and confusion they spread. I hope no-one has bought a wheel and a Jacob's chuck and tried to connect them directly together...


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## Bodrighy (7 Nov 2010)

Thanks Terry, and all the rest who have answered my initial question. I sort of guessed that quality was a major factor. I am usually wary of cheap versions if things but the apparent difference at first seemed huge. Adding it all up I can see the advantages in getting the kit. 

pete


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## PeterSk (13 Nov 2010)

Well this thread did it for me, last Tuesday I popped down to Toolpost in Didcot and bought the Chestnut buffing kit.

I quickly set it up and broke the wheels in with some 120grit sandpaper, and used it in anger for the first time yesterday. It works very nicely I'm happy to say, I used it to re-finish an old piece that I'd just sanded and waxed. It's brought a beautiful deep shine to the wood now, so colour me satisfied.

The only problem is that the B wheel for the white compound has gone orange, I don't know if this is from overzealous application of tripoli on the A wheel, or whether it's just picked up a bunch of padouk dust. Either way, something I'll investigate and update on


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## tekno.mage (13 Nov 2010)

Orange? That's nothing - mine went black when I forgot there was a brass ferrule attached to the tool handle I was buffing - and I nearly cried as I thought I'd completely ruined the wheel. Sound advice from this forum re-assured me and I re-dressed it with block & sandpaper and all the nasty black stuff disappeared


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## PeterSk (13 Nov 2010)

Good to know it's easily fixed, I suspected as much just haven't got round to it yet!


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## CHJ (13 Nov 2010)

Often a block of rough sawn ash or similar will transfer most of the rubbish off.

If you should be so unfortunate as to really get them gunked up with Old Oil or wax/oil contamination etc. then they can be washed by hand in normal washing detergent and rinsed well.

Take some time to dry out but a quick spin on a well water protected lathe or hand drill will shift most of the water, DON'T STAND IN LINE WITH MOP :lol: 

Before and after;


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