# Post a photo of the last thing you turned (!)



## Chris152 (27 Jan 2019)

I thought it might be worth a try starting this thread. 

Post a pic of the last thing you made, maybe say something about how it was turned and finished if you like. 

Keep any comments/ criticism on other people's work constructive and supportive. 

The thread's not supposed to take place of threads with longer discussion of individual pieces/ methods, or of threads where people are showing the development of a body of works. 

Short, sweet and supportive!

Right, here goes:







Holm oak, 27cm x 7cm, finished with grapeseed oil.

First time I've tried turning oak - I found it really hard compared to beech, sycamore, ash and so on. Which wasn't helped by the split (I put CA glue in once it was turned down to thickness), and looked (to me) like that section could fly off at any time. Beautiful piece of wood, though.


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## matt_southward (27 Jan 2019)

Salad/fruit bowl in elm (approx 12" diameter), finished with Danish oil, though not the best photo. Quite a tough and fibrous but of wood it was, but I'm quite pleased with the result, though I should have taken it thinner!


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## Chris152 (28 Jan 2019)

matt_southward":2glfn829 said:


> I should have taken it thinner!



It's annoying when you realise that too late, isn't it? Maybe remount and return the inside - no good if it's moved too much, but you could take it down from the inner rim where it might not have moved so much? Just a thought - nice looking finish, I've still not tried elm.


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## matt_southward (28 Jan 2019)

Yes it is, though maybe you should just go as thin as you dare. For utility ware that's meant to be used I think it's sometimes difficult to judge. I made this bowl with a mortice though, so if it really bugs me I can turn it down some more - provided it doesn't warp too much of course.


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## Dalboy (28 Jan 2019)

This is an advantage of rough turning you relieve the stresses within the wood which means it has done most of the moving so that if you do need to remount it is not such a problem. I tend to leave the foot on and leave the piece somewhere I can see it and once happy with the shape then remove the foot. This is OK for the hobby turner but for those that just want to move them out quickly, it can be a pain having them sitting around doing nothing.
By the way, this was the last piece I turned I am now working on another one which is on the lathe at the moment


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## Doug B (28 Jan 2019)

The last things I made & turned these mirror opposite blanks on slimline pens as a bit of an experiment


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## Walnut Les (28 Jan 2019)

Two horse chestnut bowls fresh of the lathe and ready for oiling.


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## J-G (29 Jan 2019)

Just finished a 'Money Box' with secret lock. This is for my 18 month old Great Grand Daughter to encourage her to save every penny that gets pushed her way 

Main body is Teak & Iroko - 110mm dia, 120mm tall, Base is Mahogany, Lid is Ash with a Teak insert. Secret lock button(s) (only one of the three is the lock) African Leadwood set in Oak.

There are 8 slots - one for each denomination - and the Unicorn's Horn points to the value of the coin to be deposited. I've not made a specific 'hole' for notes but it will be a simple matter to fold them and use the £2 slot.


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## Trevanion (29 Jan 2019)

I haven't turned anything since September (for the local horticultural show, they force me to enter against my own will!) so I can't remember what I did last, I know it was one of these two so I'll just post both.





A smallish goblet from Banksia nut and I think it was Lilac for the stem





Square bowl from spalted-ish Sycamore


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## alex_heney (2 Feb 2019)

Not much compared to what the rest of you are posting, but I have had a lathe for less than 3 weeks, and had never touched one before.

I'm not even sure what wood it is - I just pinched a piece from the firewood  [EDIT] I think it is probably Oak, based on looking for images of similar firewood pieces.

Why it is upside down until you expand it?


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## CHJ (2 Feb 2019)

alex_heney":lov1m4ot said:


> ...
> Why it is upside down until you expand it?


Because that's the way you held your Samsung SM-G950 at DateTimeOriginal : 2019:01:31 20:01:56

The Forum display software does not read the imbedded information that indicates which way up you are holding the camera. (shows it as it is, you may deliberately want it that way)

When you expand it to see a larger image the device you are viewing it on corrects it to an orientation most likely to be required for normal viewing.


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## Doug B (2 Feb 2019)

I also recently turned this Apple core, the wood is very rippled Sycamore whipped from a fellow forum users wood pile :shock: the stalk is Blackwood, finished in carnauba wax.


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## Trevanion (2 Feb 2019)

Doug B":2ue7j8cg said:


> I also recently turned this Apple core, the wood is very rippled Sycamore whipped from a fellow forum users wood pile :shock: the stalk is Blackwood, finished in carnauba wax.



I like that! I've seen a lot of turned apples but never an apple core!


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## alex_heney (2 Feb 2019)

CHJ":2r32r5qi said:


> alex_heney":2r32r5qi said:
> 
> 
> > ...
> ...



Thanks. I'd never realised that is the "wrong" way up to hold the phone for photos. Every one I have ever shot has been the right way up on on every device I have looked at them on previously.


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## treeturner123 (3 Feb 2019)

Doug B, loved the Apple core, really imaginative.

What have I made since Xmas, Nothing, too cold in the shed!!!


Phil


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## JWD (3 Feb 2019)

My first ever segmented piece - for the Mrs' (last name Fischer) bloody hard work but very rewarding result! American black walnut and Hard maple.


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## Steliz (4 Feb 2019)

That looks great. I want to give it a try myself and, of course, I've watched countless Youtube videos on the process but they always make everything look simple and problem free. Would you mind giving some detail on any issues you had?


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## Paul Hannaby (7 Feb 2019)

Here's the last thing I turned - a beech door knob for my new shed. Finished with danish oil.
Not the most exciting but very practical!


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## Tris (8 Feb 2019)

Hi all,
I'm new to the site and only recently got back into turning after a 10 year break. 
Anyway, I broke a handle and decided I needed a longer one. 
It's made from local Ash and the Y steamed (which caused the iron stain from the rivet). 
Any comments/advice welcome.
Tris


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## CHJ (8 Feb 2019)

Great Job, good to see a very practical application from some basic turning.
Did it go well first try ? suspect the acute Vee transition was the bit that caused the most thought.

Never know myself which is sounder, leaving the section whole and risking further splitting or risking reducing the cross section by drilling and riveting.


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## Tris (8 Feb 2019)

Thank you, it was fun to do and as a full time gardener, something I'll be using a lot.

Most of the better quality handles are riveted so I thought I'd follow that method.
When I have to make another I will make a better jig for steam bending rather than try to clamp two surfaces that aren't parallel. #-o


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## Chris152 (11 Feb 2019)

A new shape to me. I turned the foot and the initial part of the bowl using the large-bowl extension on the banjo but was getting some vibration, so rotated the head to nearer the spindle position and carried on at a different angle. I really like the shoulder that appeared as I removed from the side of the bowl and kept it.





I'm going to try some taller versions - the tricky bit for me is the inside which has steep sides (compared to what I'm used to) and rounds sharply into the base (I didn't even try following the outside profile on the inside).


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## Chris152 (21 Feb 2019)

Beech, finished with grape seed oil. I didn't notice the bruising on the rim til I saw the photo, so might put it back on to be rid of that. 

I saw Chas's piece with hard wax oil in another thread and thought it could look great on this - will that oil work as well on top of the grapeseed oil I've already put on this or have a blown my chances of getting such a high-gloss finish?


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## Dalboy (21 Feb 2019)

Chris152":3otewqfj said:


> Beech, finished with grape seed oil. I didn't notice the bruising on the rim til I saw the photo, so might put it back on to be rid of that.
> 
> I saw Chas's piece with hard wax oil in another thread and thought it could look great on this - will that oil work as well on top of the grapeseed oil I've already put on this or have a blown my chances of getting such a high-gloss finish?



It is surprising what can be missed until a photo is taken. Looks pretty good from here. The shape will develop over time.

Why are you using the extension on a smallish piece?


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## Chris152 (21 Feb 2019)

Thanks Derek - but how did you know I was using the extension?! :shock: You're quite right, tho. 
A few reasons: 
1. it's a lot of work shifting from extension to no extension on my lathe and I do more needing it than not; 
2. vibration was annoying me when using the extension since I moved the lathe to a new location and I really wanted to get it sorted (I think it is now, more or less - I'd blame the bruising in this one on bad workmanship); and 
3. I've had to set up lights so I can see properly, and I set them up for use with the extension - when I turn the head toward the bed, I'm working in my own light. 
And - 4. Most of the turning I've done since I got the lathe has been needed the extension and I now find it awkward to turn over the bed (actually, bars on mine) - mainly because they get in the way of the handle of the gouge if I try to cut steep sides (which I generally try to avoid doing because I'm not good at it!).

I think the long-term solution might well be a free-standing tool rest. annoyingly, there is one in the workshop but its lowest setting is too high for mine, and it's not mine to cut down...

edit = sorry for rambling answer, but I've been struggling with the lathe/ extension the last week or so and your question hit the nail on the head!


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## CHJ (21 Feb 2019)

Chris152":1ubsaenp said:


> I think the long-term solution might well be a free-standing tool rest. annoyingly, there is one in the workshop but its lowest setting is too high for mine, and it's not mine to cut down...


Does your lathe reverse?
Can you turn internally with the Gouge 'wrong handed'

Just a thought as it sometimes makes it easier to work on the internals.

Alternate if the lathe does reverse and you can't master the 'awkward' tool handling is to use a sharp round nosed scraper to work on the internals. Means you can stand 'straight on' to the lathe.







Chris152":1ubsaenp said:


> edit = sorry for rambling answer, but I've been struggling with the lathe/ extension the last week or so and your question hit the nail on the head!


Ramblings on topic side lines often throw up a load of answers that were failing to surface.


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## Chris152 (22 Feb 2019)

Unfortunately, no reverse option! I think I'm ok for the moment in that the extension seems stable, but I find the lathe a bit like a complex string instrument - if something's out of balance, it starts creating its own vibrations. (I know next to nothing about string instruments, so the comparison might be nonsense. )


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## Dalboy (22 Feb 2019)

Chris152":3g37eyml said:


> Thanks Derek - but how did you know I was using the extension?! :shock: You're quite right, tho.
> A few reasons:
> 1. it's a lot of work shifting from extension to no extension on my lathe and I do more needing it than not;
> 2. vibration was annoying me when using the extension since I moved the lathe to a new location and I really wanted to get it sorted (I think it is now, more or less - I'd blame the bruising in this one on bad workmanship); and
> ...



I have a lathe that the head can be swivelled and if I want to turn it I only do so for a small amount so that I am turning away from the bed but I only ever turn it enough so that I use the tool rest without having to resort to using the outboard tool rest. This allows me to use longer tools as well as make it easier to allow me to turn hollow forms.

What extension are you using


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## woodbloke66 (22 Feb 2019)

Lazy Susan, finished this morning, which proved 'difficult' :evil: and time consuming to make.






The inlay is a random geometric confection of all sorts of different timbers that I've accumulated and include the root of a Laurier Canelle tree, an extinct wood from St. Lucia which forms the main 'X' in the centre. Also around the rim are inlaid Bog Oak, Ebony, Walnut, Holly, Rosewood, Haze (the yellow stuff) from Japan and Bog Yew. The main body is turned from English Oak and has a diameter of 430mm, so it had to be turned in reverse on the lathe as the tool rest wouldn't reach once the headstock had been swung through 90deg. The inlaid circular rim is in English Walnut. As it's going to be in daily use, it's been finished with three coats of Osmo satin with Renaissance Wax over the top - Rob


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## Treveansalt (22 Feb 2019)

I'm very new to wood turning! Go easy (third bowl) old bit of mahogany..it wasn't meant to but somehow I made a 70s nut bowl that wouldn't look out of place on some Gplan furniture....


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## Treveansalt (22 Feb 2019)

ARG can I not use Google photos links!? Sorry... Couldn't figure how to upload a photo


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## CHJ (22 Feb 2019)

David, you can't link to off site url's until you have made several posts.
You can upload (attach) images without number of posts restrictions.

The Dynamic Links you provided are not viable.


> Dynamic Link not found
> If you are the developer of this app, ensure that your Dynamic Links domain is correctly configured and that the path component of this URL is valid.


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## Treveansalt (22 Feb 2019)

Thanks chj. I read through the guide and edited my post.


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## Yosarian (26 Feb 2019)

Some rattles for the little one. Iroko and black walnut.





Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


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## CHJ (26 Feb 2019)

Extreme caution with Iroko, It can cause severe reactions.

I personally would not let a small child in a workshop that's working it let alone allow them to play with it.

If they develop a reaction it may make them sensitive to many other woods for the rest of their life.

See the Reasons and wood lists Links in the Turning Section Help and Safety thread


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## Yosarian (26 Feb 2019)

CHJ":26eblt7a said:


> Extreme caution with Iroko, It can cause severe reactions.
> 
> I personally would not let a small child in a workshop that's working it let alone allow them to play with it.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the heads up.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


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## Dalboy (26 Feb 2019)

I will also add to what CHJ has stated. If you intend to let them as rattles the ends need to be a certain diameter. I have a PDF which the site will not allow me to post that will give the sizes.
Take into consideration the finish that you use on them if any.
We are not trying to put you off but rather trying to make it safe for you and the child.
When I have made rattles in the past they have been keepsakes rather than usable items, but if I was to make for use by a child I would go for safe woods like beech and for the rattle noise I have used ceramic baking beans. 

Lets try this for the rattle info Rattle Guidelines


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## Yosarian (26 Feb 2019)

Thanks. I can't find any end diameters in your pdf, have I missed them? It only discusses "small parts".

What other woods are considered safe? I note from the toxicity table beech is a sensitizer, can cause nausea, can cause irritation in eyes, skin, the respiratory system, dermatitis, decrease in lung function, eye irritation and nasal cancer.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


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## Chris152 (26 Feb 2019)

Yosarian":1bzzs64j said:


> What other woods are considered safe? I note from the toxicity table beech is a sensitizer, can cause nausea, can cause irritation in eyes, skin, the respiratory system, dermatitis, decrease in lung function, eye irritation and nasal cancer.



Maybe have a look at this thread:
post1257718.html#p1257718
The uncertainty is caused by charts being non-specific about the state of the wood - if you look for the links Chas posted in that thread, you get a much better idea of the conditions under which particular woods can be harmful/ toxic. (So, for example (as I understand it) beech can cause nasal cancer if you keep inhaling the dust when working the wood.)


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## Yosarian (26 Feb 2019)

Interesting, thanks. Well, wood dust from any wood isn't a good thing to be inhaling.

According to that table, oak (for example) would seem a better choice than beech (rare incidence rather than common), have I got that right? 

There is some suggestion in that thread about beech being safe as it is used for cooking implements. On the other hand, Iroko seems a popular choice for kitchen worktops (along with oak), so I don't know where that leaves us.

Sorry if this is going off the threads intended topic, but I am learning a lot.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


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## Chris152 (26 Feb 2019)

There's lots of discussion on the safety of woods and finishes for particular uses, and you read lots of different positions. In the end, I decided to have a look at what woods larger commercial outlets were using for specific items, and stick with those.


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## Chris152 (26 Feb 2019)

Copper beech with inlaid painted maple band.


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## CHJ (27 Feb 2019)

Yosarian":iqp2g675 said:


> I can't find any end diameters in your pdf, have I missed them? It only discusses "small parts".



Copy of TIE Article in JPG format Gives dimensions for Test Gauge for small components.


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## Dalboy (27 Feb 2019)

CHJ":2tghgmdl said:


> Yosarian":2tghgmdl said:
> 
> 
> > I can't find any end diameters in your pdf, have I missed them? It only discusses "small parts".
> ...



Thank you Chas I was looking for the other one I had which explained in better detail but I have so many files I was going cross-eyed.



Yosarian":2tghgmdl said:


> Thanks. I can't find any end diameters in your pdf, have I missed them? It only discusses "small parts".
> 
> What other woods are considered safe? I note from the toxicity table beech is a sensitizer, can cause nausea, can cause irritation in eyes, skin, the respiratory system, dermatitis, decrease in lung function, eye irritation and nasal cancer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk



Sorry for not getting back to you see my reply to CHJ above.
As for wood as already mentioned it is the dust that can cause many of the problems in the toxicity list. Yes there are woods that are poisonous even if chewed.
Beech is a good wood for many things that is why you see it used for many cooking implements


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## Yosarian (27 Feb 2019)

CHJ":2q79tjvx said:


> Yosarian":2q79tjvx said:
> 
> 
> > I can't find any end diameters in your pdf, have I missed them? It only discusses "small parts".
> ...


I'm still not seeing anything relating to end diameters? Only requirements for not fitting entirely within the small parts cylinder, or for ball or ball like objects with a diameter of less than 44.5mm.

Sorry for labouring the point, I am just trying to follow though all comments to understand if:
1. What I have made is unsafe.
2. If so, how I can modify/remake it to be safe.

Interestingly, what you linked to would seem to prohibit ceramic baking beans being used if their diameter is less than 44.5mm ("no small balls in toys").

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


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## Yosarian (27 Feb 2019)

Dalboy":13yel52q said:


> CHJ":13yel52q said:
> 
> 
> > Yosarian":13yel52q said:
> ...


No problem. Yes I agree wood dust in any form is not good for anyone, let alone little ones. And poisonous wood doesn't sound ideal either.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk


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## NOTTNICK (1 Mar 2019)

Made this from a piece of beech from the very old tree felled in our neighbour's garden.


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## Chris152 (21 Mar 2019)

Copper beech, finished with grape seed oil (on recessed section only) and wax, 36 cm diameter (approx.)


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## OxonTurner (9 Apr 2019)

Only had a Lathe a few weeks so just trying a few things.
Made this earing stand with box and a basic spike for rings.
Used a bit of cherry and shellac to finish.


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## OxonTurner (13 Apr 2019)

First use of dyes, quite liking the look.


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## Chris152 (20 Jun 2019)

Holm oak, about 8" diameter, finished with sanding sealer and wax. The wood was incredibly splitty, turned once from green, and filled with crystal clear resin.


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## Steliz (21 Jun 2019)

Plum wood. This wood is already beautiful. Nothing I have done with it has added to that.
Rough turned green, dried in it's own shavings for a couple of weeks, and then finished. I put some friction polish on it but it's a bit old and I didn't get as much of a shine as I was hoping for. Tried some paste wax on top but that didn't add any shine either. The BLO tinted the wood colour more than I was expecting so I wouldn't do that again.


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## OxonTurner (21 Jun 2019)

Very nice.


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## CHJ (21 Jun 2019)

Steliz":2yvg953w said:


> …. The BLO tinted the wood colour more than I was expecting so I wouldn't do that again.


Did you wait several days- maybe weeks, for the BLO to cure to a skinned surface before you applied the wax? If not you may just be blending the wax with oil residue and making it difficult to buff to a shine.
It may shine up more at a later date.


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## Steliz (21 Jun 2019)

I only waited 2 or 3 days so that could be the reason.


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## OxonTurner (23 Jun 2019)

Bowl with stand, took a while as coloured and lacquered, lots of waiting time but leaves a good finish.


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## Chris152 (24 Jun 2019)

Walnut, finished with acrylic sanding sealer and wax. It's small and only 1" thick, the base turned with face ring and about 7mm depth of screw. At the centre is the pith, running through the bowl, and as it's decayed (presumably on the tree) it's formed a honeycomb-like pattern. I decided to finish with acrylic spray to try to reinforce the fragile structure but not affect its form (I did think of crystal clear resin but thought it might spoil it visually).


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## gregmcateer (24 Jun 2019)

I absolutely LOVE that - especially the way you've got the pith and heartwood across the middle.
Brilliant


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## Chris152 (26 Jun 2019)

Thanks for your kind comment, gregmcateer - it means a lot when you're still struggling to get things right on the lathe! 

This one didn't have the option to cut along the pith, and the sapwood is stained a bit, but I like the knotting and grain:




It's a bit bigger but now less than an inch thick, as the blank had some warping and needed turning down to level. Finished with grape seed oil this time, I might wax it once the oil's dry.


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## Lindas (26 Jun 2019)

I hope this works.

I was looking at the lovely things and thought to post a photo of the little jewellery chest my dad made for my mum when they got engaged in 1955, or there about. She kept her rings in it. He cut all the brass by hand with a chisel and stamped her name in the top. He stitched the padding inside too.

There are turnings he has done but this came to mind as something to share here as I get to know folks

Linda


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## bobajobob (6 Jul 2019)

Still experimenting with the router. Latest results in mahogany.


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## marcros (6 Jul 2019)

they are cool, I like them a lot.


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## bobajobob (6 Jul 2019)

Thanks marcros. Been a good while since my last post. Seemed a little livelier in those days.


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## marcros (6 Jul 2019)

I would be interested to see a picture of your setup. Way beyond my skill level to turn the items, let alone the rest but interesting to see all the same.


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## Chris152 (8 Jul 2019)

Beech bowls, carbonised interiors, finished with grape seed oil.


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## Lindas (10 Jul 2019)

Mhm they are very lovely


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## Chris152 (18 Sep 2019)

Apple! Second turned and finished with grape seed oil.


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## Lindas (22 Sep 2019)

That is a very lovely bowl


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## Chris152 (25 Sep 2019)

Damson second turned, leaving distortion at rim. It's a beautiful wood.





Two rather dull ash plates glued together and re-turned out of boredom! It's a shape I made many years ago from clay, for a-level ceramics.


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## Chris152 (20 Dec 2019)

Ash.




Come on guys and gals, let's see more of what you've been turning!


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## gog64 (28 Dec 2019)

Well, the reason that I'm reluctant to post on this thread is that what I'm making looks carp compared with the rest of this beautiful work! I reassure myself that I've only been turning for a month and it's bound to get better Anyway, my wife's sister needed a present at short notice so I was banished to my barn for a few hours to make something from left overs and scraps. As my SIL has gone totally cake making mad, this stand seemed like a good idea...






It may not be beautiful, but the engineers among you will instantly recognise that it's over engineered and will carry a large fruit cake without collapsing. I have no idea why my son's action man is perched on the top, it seems to have been incorporated into some game!


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## Steliz (28 Dec 2019)

Tis the season....

Acacia, Sycamore, Plum, Indian Rosewood, Yew, Mahogany.


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## Trainee neophyte (28 Dec 2019)

gog64":bj4vt9xs said:


> Well, the reason that I'm reluctant to post on this thread is that what I'm making looks carp compared with the rest of this beautiful work! I reassure myself that I've only been turning for a month and it's bound to get better Anyway, my wife's sister needed a present at short notice so I was banished to my barn for a few hours to make something from left overs and scraps. As my SIL has gone totally cake making mad, this stand seemed like a good idea...
> 
> 
> 
> It may not be beautiful, but the engineers among you will instantly recognise that it's over engineered and will carry a large fruit cake without collapsing. I have no idea why my son's action man is perched on the top, it seems to have been incorporated into some game!



Anything involving support for cake is a GOOD THING. Nothing wrong with over-engineering a cake stand - where I come from, Heavy Cake is a thing. It needs to be safe and secure. Image the trauma of a cake crash!


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## gog64 (9 Jan 2020)

I wanted to have a go at something square with wings! Just a bit of pine from the scrap bin as I just wanted to have a go at the shape for practice. 32cm diameter.


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## J-G (1 Mar 2020)

Being inspired by the shape of HappyPixie's Burr Oak Bowl, having a few lumps of gifted Walnut and not had time to do any bowl turning recently, I got my act together and turned this : 




Not as big as HappyPixie's at 130 dia and 95mm high, the 'bowl' is 35mm deep and the dropped rim 1mm thick. The base is Utile 78mm dia x 48mm high.

This will be a present for the friend who provided the Walnut - albeit some 2 years ago!


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## mayo.mick (2 Mar 2020)

Its harder and harder to find time to get into the workshop. Here's a Yew pot pourii bowl I finished last week, started it sometime in December I think and left to one side.


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## CHJ (2 Mar 2020)

Never mind the time in the making, it was worth the wait.
Like your treatment of the top with the bead, just adds that 'difference' to the piece.
Finished well.


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## ScaredyCat (6 Mar 2020)

This one came out a bit better off than the last one (first one) ...
















I still have issues with not having a chuck and having to use a glue block and I suspect I may have used some unsafe practices 

Oh and Ash - lovely to work with compared to yesterday!


.


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## CHJ (6 Mar 2020)

ScaredyCat":2kaizj7q said:


> ….
> I still have issues with not having a chuck and having to use a glue block and I suspect I may have used some unsafe practices
> ...


Successful outcome for an early turning.
Regards unsafe practices, the fact that you are aware of them and presumably have been suitably cautious and kept vulnerable bits of the anatomy out of the firing line until you can eliminate them is good.


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## ScaredyCat (6 Mar 2020)

Damned with faint praise. :lol: 

Camera does a better job than my eyes at picking up the flaws - I didn't see the sanding marks until the photos. 

I'm just using standard sanding paper - the stuff for random orbital sanders. You things improve with one of those bowl sanders? (I think prokraft have all the bits bar the wood to make one for a tenner).

Hot glue is sticking a bit too well ad clean up is an issue. To do this I stuffed the open end with paper towels and pushed it onto my glue block, then brought the tailstock up to hold it against the glue block. 

.


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## CHJ (6 Mar 2020)

If you make yourself a faceplate out of a disc of MDF/Ply/Chipboard attached to a 'block' with a cork table mat surface you can hold your item against that with the tailstock, you can even use additional mats glued to the face to provide additional stepped cantering guides to locate your items.


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## ScaredyCat (7 Mar 2020)

Thanks for the tip. Worked a treat.

Took the point about shape to heart, this is what I came up with... not very inventive but then I only have 2 tools to work with.







The rim was quite a bit of fun as I expected it to not be there by the time I'd completed.






Practical as ever, it can be used as a hat in an emergency...






The blanks I have are quite small , around a couple of inches. Any suggestions on shaping ones that thin, given I have to screw them to a faceplate?

Also, cherry is such a lovely wood to work with. Also worked on my sanding more with this one. 
.


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## Trevorturn (8 Mar 2020)

Made this yew vase for a present from a log that’s been sat under my bench for 3 years
It stands 12” tall and is 7”across the top
Turned using a 1” roughing gouge and hollowed using a Sorby hollowing tool
Finish is 4 coats of sanding sealer
My first bit of turning of some time


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## Phil Pascoe (8 Mar 2020)

ScaredyCat":38peoy5z said:


> Hot glue is sticking a bit too well and clean up is an issue.



I learned very quickly not to put hot melt in places I couldn't get something hot to release the blank.
Isopropyl alcohol softens hot melt and aids its removal, not that you'll be able to buy it at the moment.


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## CHJ (8 Mar 2020)

Can't remember the last time I tried to release hot melt, have got into the habit of arranging turning/holding sequence so that I part it off or turn it off when item reversed.


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## Phil Pascoe (8 Mar 2020)

Yes, it's easier to turn or cut through it than it is to have to release it.


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## mayo.mick (10 Mar 2020)

I'm trying to get a bit of time in the workshop. Its seldom I get to make a piece for our monthly chapter challenge. Got a few hours in over the weekend and got a piece done for this months challenge, a ceiling rose.

I'd a bit of a battle with this piece, was pretty out of balance. 12" x 2" spalted Beech.


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## bobajobob (11 Mar 2020)

Mahogany and Af.blackwood 200mm high. Hollowed through base and sealed with blackwood insert.


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## ScaredyCat (11 Mar 2020)

n00b question but how did you do the swirly bits?

.


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## bobajobob (11 Mar 2020)

A lifetime of designing technical products for mass production then a week in my retirement refuge(shed) making a humble router mechanism.


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## KimG (11 Mar 2020)

Natural edged goblet, David Christorofo style.


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## CHJ (11 Mar 2020)

That's some Tour de force *Kim*, certainly a Goblet with a difference, a different composition of forms from the norm that never the less works.


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## KimG (14 Mar 2020)

Thanks Chas, it's a bit of a theme ATM getting ready for some more complex stuff.


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## CHJ (14 Mar 2020)

I could see something very similar with your coloured high gloss treatment of the mid stem feature.


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## KimG (15 Mar 2020)

Actually what I want to do is more like your own field with different timbers providing the colour, like rosewood and ebony for the stems etc, I need to hone the technique though, I would be a bit narked if a nice length of cocobolo flew off the lathe in bits!


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## CHJ (15 Mar 2020)

KimG":phvwj6vz said:


> Actually what I want to do is more like your own field with different timbers providing the colour, like rosewood and ebony for the stems etc, I need to hone the technique though, I would be a bit narked if a nice length of cocobolo flew off the lathe in bits!


That sort of piece would lend itself very well to that, tenon jointing the individual sections would allow the use of much smaller individual lengths of 'exotics' spindle turned on mandrels or glue block mounted.


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