# Router table and fence- need your help



## rileytoolworks (26 May 2008)

Hi all. Just a few pics to show you what I've got in mind for my new router table. Any advice would be appreciated...
It'll be on lockable castors (not shown), and have T-slots in the top for the fence to fix down to via the rear most bristol levers.
There is a sub base for the fence, the movement for which is controlled by a threaded rod and large knob running through the block at the back. I've not got round to drawing that yet...


















(Edited to update picture....)


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## wizer (27 May 2008)

I like the design a lot.

Have you seen Pat Warner's website?


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## rileytoolworks (27 May 2008)

No, I'm not familiar with that site. I'll check it out.
For the past two years I've been using a Triton in a table, and although it's an excellent router, I'm getting annoyed with having to reach under the table to adjust the height. 
Now, being a tight-ass, I'm not going to fork out for a lifting mechanism so I'm toying with the idea of using a handwheel mounted on the front of the unit, connected to the Tritons fine height adjuster via a 90 degree joint.
The router is dedicated to the table so I don't mind 'butchering' it a little...


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## Steve Maskery (27 May 2008)

The type of fence you describe is exactly what I have on my version of Norm's table. It's a good modification of the original. My tip would be not to use a knob for the fence adjustment, use a Bristol lever. The lever acts as a pointer which makes fine adjustment that much easier to keep track of.
S


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## Chems (28 May 2008)

Pats sites has tons of good ideas, I'll be making my second router table in the future, just stole a few gooduns! 

Riley, we can start a Northampton division now there are 2 of us!


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## Anonymous (28 May 2008)

Riley

Pat Warner has also published a couple fo good books on routers and jigs


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## rileytoolworks (29 May 2008)

Thanks for the feedback. Anyone got any thoughts about the height adjustment?
I'm being spoiled at work with a super accurate spindle moulder, making me jealous!
Chems, whereabouts are you then?


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## Chems (30 May 2008)

In a village a little outside of Daventry. Whereabouts are you?


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## rileytoolworks (30 May 2008)

Hi Chems. I'm in Kettering (for my sins!). I used to build narrowboats in Weedon! Small world!
What line of work are you in?


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## rileytoolworks (30 May 2008)

Steve, do you have any pictures of your fence?


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## compo (2 Jun 2008)

Hey Riley

How about using a car scissor jack for the height adjuster? You'll need to attach it to the router somehow and find a way to secure the crank handle so it doesn't vibrate, but that should be easy enough.

Nice fence, btw


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## Chems (3 Jun 2008)

Im in the fire line of work.

Kettering isnt so bad at all, could be worse, could be in corby! I take it you work in the wood industry?


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## rileytoolworks (3 Jun 2008)

Hi chems. You mean you're a firefighter, or an arsonist?!
Yes, I work for a bespoke furniture company, specialising in kitchens.
I used to build narrow boats, and I have to say, as job satisfaction goes, it was tops...
Compo, thanks for the idea. Ive heard of that before. I just wonder what the accuracy would be like? I'm toying with the idea of saving up for a 'router raizer'.
Has anyone got or used one of these?


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## Steve Maskery (3 Jun 2008)

Hi Riley

This is mone:
















A couple of tips:
Make sure that the cutout around the cutter haseasy edges, so that sawdust does not get trapped - you want it flying up, up and away, nit getting stuck in corners.
Be careful where you put knobs and levers. Mine has a couple of extraneous holes because I first put them in daft places.

Cheers
Steve


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## rileytoolworks (3 Jun 2008)

Thanks Steve. That's a solid looking fence.
What kind of accuarcy can you achieve with the threaded adjuster? What tpi is it? (I'm presuming it's threaded stud).


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## Steve Maskery (3 Jun 2008)

It's a length of M6, so one rev is 1.0mm.
The Bristol lever makes it easy to see how far I've turned. Thinking of a clock, 6 mins is 0.1mm. Fine enough for me.
S


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## rileytoolworks (3 Jun 2008)

Thanks Steve. I like the fact you've made it look good too.
Where I work, people mock me for making my jigs functional and good looking!


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## rileytoolworks (3 Jun 2008)

Steve.
Sorry to pick your brains. Are those wooden t-tracks on the backs of your sliding fences?


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## Steve Maskery (3 Jun 2008)

The upper fence slides over the lower fence on diamond-shaped keys.

The lower fence is adjusted coarsely over the table with slots through the table, and Bristol levers above with sliding nuts below.

If I were making it again I'd use ally t-track instead of the slots, but only because the the slots allow sawdust to drop through into my top drawer, which holds spanners and stuff.

I have a horizontal router mounted on the left side of the cabinet. I don't use it often, but when I need it, it's a godsend. See Bill Hylton's book_ Router Magic._

Cheers
steve


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## rileytoolworks (3 Jun 2008)

Wow. Thanks for the concise answers.


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## Chems (3 Jun 2008)

Thats such a fantastic design! 

Riley, I am the Fire Starter. You'll have to tell me where you work an I'll drop in sometime, got another member for the Northampton massive.


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## rileytoolworks (3 Jun 2008)

I work in Market Harborough now. Keeping my eyes and ears open for more opportunities though (until the day I finally go self employed!)
Maybe we should wear a pink rose and meet at Northampton train station!!! :?


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## Chems (3 Jun 2008)

Thats about the only way to get into Northampton at the moment as every single road is undergoing road works!


Back to the topic at hand, are those hand drawn designs?


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## compo (4 Jun 2008)

> Thinking of a clock, 6 mins is 0.1mm. Fine enough for me.


That kinda slap dash attitude gets ua all a bad reputation, Steve!! :lol: 

But got to say the fence looks good, think I may have a new project the weekend...

To be honest Riley, the jack idea was suggested to me a while ago, but I haven't got round to trying it - tho I have got a jack and the thread looks lovely and fine. Just not sure about locking it all off and the posibility of vibrating loose. I've been looking around and nearly convinced myself to buy the unilift from Rutlands, at least it locks off properly.

Maybe someone else has another idea...?


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## compo (4 Jun 2008)

Hey Steve
Just checked the photos again. Is that a Unilift? Is it any good?


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## John McM (4 Jun 2008)

Compo, rather than buying something to adjust the height of the router why not buy another router. I have the Triton Mof001 and its great. You can change the bit above the table and fine height adjust above the table.
Some piccies here:
http://www.getwoodworking.com/members/M ... sp?sp=&v=1


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## Steve Maskery (4 Jun 2008)

Compo

It's not a UniLift (although I believe they are excellent) it is a Router Raizer (woodworkersworkshop.co.uk) Yes it's good, but it is in Imperial, so I've I've made a converter to work in Metric (I'm not allowed to tell you where you can find it , you'll have to work it out for yourself or ask someone else).

I would caution against using a scissor jack though, the reason being that supporting it by the crown of the body housing is likely to block the air cooling vents, leading to shortened motor life.

Cheers
Steve


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## compo (4 Jun 2008)

Yes, that, plus it's the plastic casing, can't really be a good idea. The more I think about it less appealing it's becoming. 
Gonna have a look at the 2 previous suggestions. 

I fear what was a new fence project is slowly becoming a bit more involved...


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