# Building a Bike / Tool Shed - Roofing and Painting



## Mcluma (8 May 2015)

Bike / Tool Shed

Camera’s on phones are getting better, and better, so there is less reason as to not having pictures. In the past I always had to get the camera, and you never want to leave it lying around, just to have it ready for that one picture moment, whereas you always have a phone with you. So there will be more photo’s to share

My sweet wife has asked for a bike shed. We looked around for ready made ones, however, and I have to admit some of them are really nice looking, they would not give the same feel as our carport, and this shed is going to be next to the carport.

So I will build one from scratch, and I will share the pictures of the build as we go along. 

Currently I am using the 3 bay carport also as tool storage, - this was a necessity as we were refurbishing our house, and now the house is finished the wife doesn’t want any tools in the house. The solution is to make the bike shed a bit larger so it can take my 3 large tool racks, workbench, and the table saw 

The dimensions will be 3m * 3m with a hipped roof, construction will be very similar to the carport

This is were it needs to be going, it will be half going underneath the tree, and sufficiently away from the fence so there will be ample means for maintenance




Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr


Picked up the digger from storage, hence the canopy is missing, which makes it a bit easier to work underneath the tree




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First building material is in for the base, still have enough hardcore, so that was a saving, and will clear up the drive




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Also picked up some posts




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Tomorrow its preparation of the ground and with a bit of luck putting the base down, otherwise it will be Sunday


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## HOJ (8 May 2015)

Might need to edit the text re: My ....wife :?:


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## Mcluma (8 May 2015)

HOJ":j1w94of5 said:


> Might need to edit the text re: My ....wife :?:



Thanks


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## Mcluma (10 May 2015)

Had an early start (not to early, otherwise the neighbor’s could complain) on Saturday morning before the usual lunch at the in-law’s. Did a bit of scraping and a bit of tree trimming, but quite happy with how its was looking. Levels are spot on, and the tree clearance is perfect to get my roof on with at least a 50cm overhang (I probably will do a 30cm overhang)




Untitled by Chris, on Flickr


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## Mcluma (10 May 2015)

Houston we have a problem

I had already my doubts, on paper it all looks so good, but when you have set it all out it just doesn’t work, my wife confirmed it:

IT’S TO SMALL

This is not going to work for us, why doing all the work when it’s just not going to serve its purpose.

So out with the digger and make it bigger.

Took me another hour or so, and then it was a reasonable size 3m * 4m.

Levels ok, and in with the hardcore and a bit of sand to smooth it all off.




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Had to compact it all by hand as the whacker plate is still in storage, and couldn’t get it out.




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Its going to be build from lots and lots of left overs, so had a piece of membrane left and a piece of Detra matting and to top it off a view flags – had even some extra mesh laying around.




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Had to do a minor repair to the mixer. Have this thing for 20 years (and bought it second hand) and is still going great, had to tighten the belt up as it was slipping, even found a strap to keep the lid down




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Now I just hope that I have enough concrete


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## Mcluma (10 May 2015)

2 hours and 24 wheelbarrow loads later, the concrete is in. 

The wheelbarrow had a flat tire and on my BIL recommendation replaced it with one of these airless tires. Big mistake. Ok you will have never have a puncture again, but there is no bounce in these wheels, it just makes it so much harder to push over uneven ground

Now that I increased the size, there was the chance that I was going to be short of ballast. And yes I was short, fortunate I had still some sand and gravel laying around, which needed to be cleared up anyway. Other than that, it was plain sailing, even had the wife and daughter helping out



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Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



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Untitled by Chris, on Flickr


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## No skills (11 May 2015)

Making progress, keep the pictures coming


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## John15 (11 May 2015)

The slab looks a bit thin so maybe a risk of some cracking especially with the mesh at the bottom, but that's probably OK if you have a good substrate. Keep it wet for a few days to allow the cement to hydrate and gain some strength, and so reduce risk of shrinkage cracks. 

It's a decent size - bigger than my shed. Good luck with the rest of the build.

John


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## Mcluma (11 May 2015)

John15":3po2dmlh said:


> The slab looks a bit thin so maybe a risk of some cracking especially with the mesh at the bottom, but that's probably OK if you have a good substrate. Keep it wet for a few days to allow the cement to hydrate and gain some strength, and so reduce risk of shrinkage cracks.
> 
> It's a decent size - bigger than my shed. Good luck with the rest of the build.
> 
> John




I made it 100mm thick, in the corners I went for 150mm as there the big poles will be seated

When pouring the concrete I pulled up the mesh, so that it doesn't sit on the bottom. You are right about wetting the concrete, I did that in the afternoon, I felt the concrete this morning and there was no heat in it


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## gregmcateer (13 May 2015)

Mcluma":338nt7zu said:


> now the house is finished the wife doesn’t want any tools in the house. The solution



.... is explain to the sweet wife that bike sheds don't get built by magic - tools are to be treasured like any other valuable items, which may include storing / cleaning them etc, indoors!! 

good luck with that! :lol:


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## Mcluma (13 May 2015)

No actual work on the Bike / Tool shed got done, other then resourcing stuff, bought screws and brackets and 2 doors

Debbie didn’t want the ordinary shed doors but something a bit more “upmarket” and in keeping with the house and carport.

She found locally (I just do not want to drive miles and miles anymore to pick up stuff – those days are gone) just 5 minutes from where I live these doors – they are oak bow fronted glazed doors. 




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That one as a letter box and all the hardware doesn’t bother me, I will replace the letterbox with an air vent cover, and the doors will be painted black.


However, I didn’t pay enough attention to the description and one door is shorter and a bit narrower then the other.

That one door is narrower isn’t a problem, but one door is 100mm shorter. They have cut down the top and bottom. As you can see on these pictures.



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Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

The top is 30mm shorter and the bottom 70mm shorter

I do not want to make the other shorter as well, as I think that 1870mm is just to short. I need those 100mm back

My question is what is the best way of getting this fixed, remember they are going to be painted black, and I have enough oak to repair it


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## John15 (13 May 2015)

Hi Chris,
Re-reading my post it sounded a bit critical and I apologize for that. My estimation of the depth was wrong - 100mm is fine and you were able to raise the mesh which will act as anti-crack steel. Good luck with the rest of the build.

John


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## Mcluma (13 May 2015)

John15":1topuhka said:


> Hi Chris,
> Re-reading my post it sounded a bit critical and I apologize for that. My estimation of the depth was wrong - 100mm is fine and you were able to raise the mesh which will act as anti-crack steel. Good luck with the rest of the build.
> 
> John



Don't worry about it - critic is good, keeps me on my toes


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## No skills (13 May 2015)

As a suggestion, for the door bottom add on the extra material and make up a pair of extra deep weather bars to put on the door bottoms and hide the joint.


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## Mcluma (13 May 2015)

No skills":1mih6pg1 said:


> As a suggestion, for the door bottom add on the extra material and make up a pair of extra deep weather bars to put on the door bottoms and hide the joint.




That is a great idea


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## Mcluma (15 May 2015)

The doors have to wait, I roughly know what I’m going to do with them, and more importantly I know what width the opening is going to be. Important so I can put the posts at the right place.

Last year my BIL gave me a few joists, which he had left over from his own house refurbishment, and were no good to him, so he dropped them off at my place. 



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As you can see with almost 9” or 230mm they are way to big for use on the shed. But if I re-saw them I get 2 very useable pieces of wood out them. I want joist measuring 150mm, so out with the saw and cut them to size



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Next job for tomorrow is to get these posts into shape




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## Mcluma (16 May 2015)

Had a late start this morning, first had to accompany my wife to the Kesterport furniture sale, which was a bit of a disappointment, followed by a visit to Homebase were we bought this nice barbeque, which first had to be put together before I could start on the bike shed.



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After that, it was back on the bike / tool shed, first task up was to make a jig for cutting out the mortises.



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Next, had to take my heavy router out of the routerlift, as this is one takes ½ router bits



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Result after a bit of routing



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Just want to show this rasp, which is a very handy tool, my dad had and identical rasp about 45 years ago.



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An hour or so later all the mortises done, and posts cut to length



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A bit of a dry fitting



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And with the help of my wife and son we put it all together, didn’t took longer than 5 minutes



IMG_1423 by Chris, on Flickr

For now I have put straps around it, as it was getting late and wanted to spend a bit of time with my kids who had come over for a visit. Tomorrow I will bolt it all done and make a start on the roof.


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## Mcluma (17 May 2015)

Bit of a slow day, started off with doing a number of errands, followed by a special occasions, we picked up my daughters new car for when she will be 17 in a couple of months, car is a gift from her grandfather who has changed his car and gave his old one to my daughter – which was a total surprise to her. That is enough of excuses, certain things just take a bit longer.

Had the whole glued up and bolted together, not yet bolted to the floor, which will be one of next week jobs. Put the cross braces in. The whole feels very solid. 



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## Mcluma (22 May 2015)

It’s a bank holiday weekend and with the Friday off, it would mean double building time. Unfortunately not, a late change of plans, my brother is coming over for a weekend visit. So most likely all my building time is done.

However, today was not to bad, was able to put most of the rafters up, still a few more to do, but that won’t take me long, I have already cut them. And yesterday had a delivery of the feather edge boards and OSB boards for the roof. Yes I had it all planned out for this weekend.

Thursday’s delivery



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When I build the carport, I was made aware of this program called http://www.blocklayer.com, a brilliant online program that makes light work of setting out your roof, with all the cuts set out. Here you can see a print out of the program



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Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

With this information, I was able to set out the roof



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## Mcluma (28 May 2015)

Before starting on the roof, I better fix the posts to the concrete; this should by now have hardened enough to put the screws in.

I decided against using chemical anchors (something I used with success on the carport and other projects) but instead will be using concrete screws – a more cost effective solution



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Pre-drill with a 6mm stone drill and then drive them in with an impact driver – result – rock solid

Each post will be secured with 2 heavy duty angle plates – they will not move any more



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After this job is done, I can start on the roof


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## Mcluma (29 May 2015)

Finished all the brackets yesterday, concrete was harder than I had expected, where I had planned using my Dewalt cordless, I had to switch over to my well trusted and best buy of all my tools the BTI hammer drill. 



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I even had enough time to put the first sheets of OSB on the roof. But that is a way to dangerous thing to do on your own (manhandling these sheets by yourself is not easy). So the rest has to wait until the weekend, when I can enlist the help of my wife



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## Adam9453 (29 May 2015)

Looking great, love the chunky straightforward design you've gone for


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## Mcluma (29 May 2015)

Had a few hours this evening, so out I went, but before I started I had to do one thing that had been bugging me for a while. I have this tool belt with two pockets, but two pockets is just to much, these are hard formed ones, and do not give way when you brush along something; so one had to go



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Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Next was cutting up a number of OSB sheets, and putting angles on them.



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This time I had some help getting the board on the roof, which made it a whole lot easier



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Tomorrow I hope to finish the roof, and put a membrane on it


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## Mcluma (31 May 2015)

Was able to finish the roof on Saturday, however the membrane didn’t arrive, so that has to wait till whenever the post will drop it off.



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Next I put a strip of wood (left over roof tile batten) on the floor and up the posts, this will take later the featheredge and the gravel boards



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Sunday was a bit of a bad day with all the rain, so not much got done. Was able to complete all the strips of wood on the posts, a further 6 uprights, and all the gravel boards



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On top of the gravel board I will put a modified 45mm x 75mm joist. This joist will receive the rebated featheredge boards 

This is a picture of it complete – to give you an idea of what I will be making; purpose is that if any water will be dripping down, it will not drop on the concrete



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Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

I cut them two at a time, so it will give enough support to the saw – you can see I have to joist clamped together



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More rain predicted for tomorrow, so I will probably have to wait a few days before I can continue


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## Roughcut (31 May 2015)

Thanks for taking the time to do the wip.
Looking good......


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## Mcluma (2 Jun 2015)

Not much to report on the build other than that Mr Postman delivered the breathable membrane. Maybe I will have time tonight to make a start by putting it on the roof 



IMG_1632 by Chris, on Flickr


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## Mcluma (4 Jun 2015)

Well, as Mr Postman was so friendly to deliver the membrane, I better make start with it. 

Got the walls done, needed the help of my wife to ensure it was all level and not to much stretched



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Little bit more to do on the roof


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## Woodchips2 (4 Jun 2015)

That is a quality bike shed Chris. Great WIP and thanks for sharing =D> 

Regards Keith


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## Mcluma (8 Jun 2015)

Roof is finished, that is I finished installing the breathable membrane, the felt shingles have to wait. I’m about 3 packs short of the shingles. I therefore made sure the breathable membrane is done properly (buys me time to find 3 more packs of these shingles)

Sunday was the only day that I could work on the shed, Saturday was mostly used for driving lessons. Took my Daughter over to the farm and let her drive on the fields. (of course under supervision) I’m very happy how she is progressing.

On Sunday morning I first finished the membrane, followed by picking up 10 sheets of used 11mm OSB2. Decided to board out the inside of the shed. Not a real necessity but it will make the shed more durable on the inside, less issues with nocks against the featheredge and it will provide a level surface to place the racks against, which means less issues with pushing stuff of the back shelves.

On eBay there are a lot of sellers who offer used sheets. Sheets that originally have been used for boarding up building sites, and have one of its sites painted. I have no idea where these have been used for, but they looked pretty new and unused to me. 



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Having to pick these boards up meant that I was not able to start until after lunch.

Calculated that I needed 12 sheets, that is if I would do it “properly” to the nearest stud. However he had only 10 of the 11mm, and I didn’t fancy using 18mm, so I needed to be creative.



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By cutting the sheets diagonally in half I was able to recover 2 sheets, or by looking at the waste left over, I might have even been able to do it with 9 (but that would be cutting it fine).

One slight issue though, my 16g brad nailer broke down, after 15 years of error free operation, it decided to not play ball any longer

So, I pulled it apart to see what the issue was



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Found it.

A dried up rubber at the bottom of the firing pin



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This is where it sits



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I say dried up, it was completely perished, definitely not an issue of me not oiling the nailer as there was enough oil in the chamber. I will see if they sell this part separately. Lucky I have another nailer, this one I use for staples but is a 18G. Well it means the boards will get done with staples rather than nails- not a big issue



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After that it was plane sailing and all the boards where in by 20.00 



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I have enough OSB left over to do fancy trim work around the top.


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## Mcluma (12 Jun 2015)

Was not able to do a lot this week, but I managed to complete the inside. So all the OSB is done.

Just a bit of trim work, done with left over pieces of OSB

From this



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To this



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## John15 (12 Jun 2015)

Good progress Chris

John


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## Mcluma (15 Jun 2015)

During the week I did some small jobs, of which one was to reduce the size off these oversized bolts.




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I cut them down with the angle grinder, and found a bunch of these dome nuts, for which I have no projects planned, so I will use them for now.



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Untitled by Chris, on Flickr


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## Mcluma (16 Jun 2015)

So this Saturday was the big day for installing the featheredge boards, been looking forward it all week, as it just finishes things off.

But first things first, the drip edge strips.

So this is what I had created earlier



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I clamped to joist together so it was easier for the saw to sit on



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Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Very pleased how the cut fits the rebate on the featheredge boards



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My choice for these rebated boards was:
A)	They were the same price as normal featheredge boards.
B)	They were locally available
C)	Easier to fit by yourself
D)	It gives a flat surface on the back – so each board sits against the joist, so less bending
E)	They are less protruding on the front




Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



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But is was pointed out by a forum member that I had forgotten to make it a non return drip edge, as now the water could run back to the gravelboard

So I had to cut one extra groove to make it a non-return drip edge



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After that, they where ready to be fitted



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And now we are ready for the boards



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Measure one, and then you can load up the saw with 6 boards at the time. That is the benefit of making sure you’re beams are spot on, beats to have to measure each and every board

I was surprised how quick it went up!



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Was very pleased with how little wastage there was



https://flic.kr/p/uptSUY by Chris

Next up…. the doors



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## Wizard9999 (16 Jun 2015)

Very nice, tidy piece of work. Very much enjoying watching this.

Terry.


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## Mcluma (16 Jun 2015)

Wizard9999":2qyf1xo9 said:


> Very nice, tidy piece of work. Very much enjoying watching this.
> 
> Terry.




Thanks


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## Billy Flitch (17 Jun 2015)

Chris that's a real nice saw you have there Maffal are top of the range prof tools, you probably know this but I`LL say it any way if you take the fence off the saw and turn it up side down the fence acts as a out rigger ( an extension to the base of the saw) let the fence sit on a scantlin and you have a solid base to the saw.

This point may be a bit to late for you on this project but it may be you can use it in the future or it may help somebody else on their project. In the U K the ends of the spars are usually boxed in IE soffit and fascia but where the tails are left open and the tails fly over say 15" the tops of the spars would be cut out to take a T&G board .
Lets say the T&G board would be 4" x 3/4" you would cut a piece from the top of every spar 3/4" deep and 17" long this would bring you over the wall plate. You would then fit T&G boards face down and nailed from the top. then plate over the top of this with your OSB boards. All this is so when you look under the eves you see a finished job and not the OSB boards.
Or you could use ship lap like on the walls just a small point but it is the small points that make the difference.
BTW I`ve never been allowed to put a post on concert without a damp prof membrane under it, Just something to think about.The capillary grove at 1/8" is not really wide enough the water will spring over it you need at least 1/4". Complements man your doing a top job.
.


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## Phil Pascoe (17 Jun 2015)

I think I might have left the over length bolts in case I wanted to bolt something to them.


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## Mcluma (17 Jun 2015)

phil.p":3b56ti88 said:


> I think I might have left the over length bolts in case I wanted to bolt something to them.




I left them long in the corners - but the ones in the middle and next to the door are to obvious, and as i had the dome nuts, hell why not


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## Mcluma (17 Jun 2015)

Billy Flitch":hxcf1t6m said:


> Chris that's a real nice saw you have there Maffal are top of the range prof tools, you probably know this but I`LL say it any way if you take the fence off the saw and turn it up side down the fence acts as a out rigger ( an extension to the base of the saw) let the fence sit on a scantlin and you have a solid base to the saw.
> 
> 
> .



I have this saw - i think - longer than 16 years, and i had not thought of that. i must admit i hardly use the fence. If possible i will use the guide rail- just for that purpose of stability


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## Mcluma (17 Jun 2015)

Billy Flitch":17gnlfqs said:


> This point may be a bit to late for you on this project but it may be you can use it in the future or it may help somebody else on their project. In the U K the ends of the spars are usually boxed in IE soffit and fascia but where the tails are left open and the tails fly over say 15" the tops of the spars would be cut out to take a T&G board .
> Lets say the T&G board would be 4" x 3/4" you would cut a piece from the top of every spar 3/4" deep and 17" long this would bring you over the wall plate. You would then fit T&G boards face down and nailed from the top. then plate over the top of this with your OSB boards. All this is so when you look under the eves you see a finished job and not the OSB boards.
> Or you could use ship lap like on the walls just a small point but it is the small points that make the difference.
> .
> .



I have also the carport to fix, and i'm thinking of boxing it in, so the two buildings will nicely match up, and than i also have something to fix the gutter to. on the carport i have painted the OSB board, and you are right it doesn't look good


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## Mcluma (17 Jun 2015)

Billy Flitch":1c3xl64m said:


> BTW I`ve never been allowed to put a post on concert without a damp prof membrane under it, Just something to think about.The capillary grove at 1/8" is not really wide enough the water will spring over it you need at least 1/4". Complements man your doing a top job.
> .



The posts are standing on a thin piece of slate (ok manmade slate), which you can, or maybe cannot see on the pictures, this is also what they did on our 100 year old house. And yes the tile battens (roof battens) are straight fixed to the concrete. would have been nicer to have some dpm under them.

Concrete is laid on a plastic, so that will not pull moisture up from the ground. the roof has a 30cm overhand, with gutters around 40cm, it is sheltered by trees. so i hope and fingers crossed it will last. I also do not believe there will ever be water/rain agains the featheredge boards. (that is based on the experience with the carport)

About the capillary grove - that is a shame, had not thought of that

And thanks for the compliments


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## Mcluma (21 Jun 2015)

Was not able to spend any time on the bike shed on Saturday, as I had to help my FIL to build a 3 new paddocks, followed later in the afternoon by installing a new radio in my daughters car. However Sunday (fathers day) was a bit different.

So I have do something with these doors!



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When I bought them, I stupidity thought they both where identical- they came from the same person, it came from the same building (his London workshop) when it was pulled down.

I only realized they both were different when I had them standing next to each other. Dammit, nothing is the same about these doors, they may be looking the same, but that is all

Doors are not the same size, stiles are not equal, windows are not identical etc etc. My options are: sell them, and take the loss, or fix them as much as possible so they may be looking the same, or it’s not to obvious that they are different.

Well I do like a challenge, so it will be option 2. – 

So on we go with stripping down the door to its original form



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Of with the drip strip and draft excluder (nice one though, made out of wood!)



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This door had a small problem, in that the stile had slightly come away.



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Had to open it a bit more, so I could clean it out, as there was a lot of rubbish in the opening. After cleaning it out, I clued it up and closed it up again



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So this door is to short on both ends, luckily I have loads of oak laying around from doing my staircase, and so I found a number of oak spindles which are the correct thickness and length.



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But before I can glue these one on, I have to clean up the bottom, as well as the top



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I was originally thinking of putting a spline in, but, as there hardly will be any force on the bottom part of the door, and I will be putting a large drip board on it, I decided to just use biscuits



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and strapped up


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The other door, also needed some TLC, especially on the top



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No idea what happened here, I think, it has been attacked by squirrels when I had them temporarily standing against the tree, as the tree trunk looks very much the same



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The doorframe where they had originally been fitted in, must have been really out of whack, as I had to trim about 7mm from the lower part of the stile to get the door even



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

I have sized up the bottom part of the door, what remains is trimming down the top of the door, however that is where I had to stop for the day, as its time to sit down for a nice steak dinner.



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr


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## Mcluma (27 Jun 2015)

Had a fun day with fitting the doors, first up was to reducing its overall size to match the other door, which I did by cutting down the top rail.

This is how I left it last week



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

And after cutting down the top rail



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

So now they are the same size



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Next up was cutting in the hinges, and I noticed that on these doors the hinges are cut in on an angle inwards. I have never seen that before. Have no idea what the added benefit of doing it that way is!! – beats me



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

The hinges that where on the doors are heavy duty ones, but they will not do it for me. (I will explain, and show later!) I replaced them with these hinges



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

I had these left over from another project which I did about 2 years ago- my secret door project 

Little side step –I hope you don’t mind!

I bought these doors (actually it was my wife who bought them), which are very heavy MDF panel doors, 



Doors2 by Chris, on Flickr

But that is not the part I bought them for, this is the other side of them



Doors1 by Chris, on Flickr



Doors4 by Chris, on Flickr



Doors3 by Chris, on Flickr

These are Faux leather books, real books, but prepared specially for display purposes.

The doors where utilized in our set-up for the lounge 



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Indeed a secret door – which gives access to our plant room and the Gym



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Ok back to the bike tool shed.

So as I explained, I had these hinges, and because the leave of hinge is very long, it will help the door clearing the wall, therefore the door can open a compleet 180 degrees.

The doors hinges where originally cut in to open inwards. I will let them open outwards



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Cutting the hinges free-hand, that is where this little Bosch Router comes in handy



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Unfortunately these hinges have square corners, so I need a little with help of the corner chisel. 



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Prior to routing them out I score the lines with a chisel, that gives then a very clean line when using the router



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

I have already put a doorframe in place, based on the dimensions of the doors, so no more cutting needs to be done. I offer them up inside the doorframe with a piece of 2mm cardboard underneath so I can mark the hinges on the doorliner



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Than a bit more routing and fitting the door



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

And here you can see what I mean with opening the door a full 180 degrees



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

That is one door done, now the other, but first I have to fill in the hole where the letterbox once was. I quickly knock up a jig, that will lift my router just above the bow of the window, as that was in the way 



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Filled IT with a piece of white oak. It doesn’t look pretty now, but when it’s all painted it will look fine – sanded it down with the belt sander



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Fitted, and as you can see I also filled the holes in the other door



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

To keep the doors a wide as possible, I had to forgo on a rebate, to ensure the doors are water and wind tight, I fitted a pairmaker. The pairmaker also helped me to even out the styles, as one style was wider by about 15mm.



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Tomorrow I need to look for a locking mechanism.


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## Mcluma (29 Jun 2015)

Whilst waiting for door closing hardware, I best get going on the soffits and fascia. Soffits will probably be 12mm ply, and the fascia will be gravelboards. I did some measurements and if I split the gravel boards in half on a 22.5 degree angle to match up the roof, I probably only need 3 gravelboards, which I still have.

First up is to prepare the roof, which means to cut down the rafters and hip rafters, but also attach a batten to the underside of the roof to give the fascia a bit more material to be fixed to

That batten I have fixed to the underside of the roof is the off-cut of the drip battens I had cut about 2 weeks ago. These ones here



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

They are the perfect size, I mean they have the correct angle 22.5 degree, which makes fitting them easy



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Cut one gravelboard down to see how it would look and if there would be wide enough to fit the gutter on to it, and yes I’m happy to go with this



Untitled by Chris, on Flick


Now cutting down the rafters and hip rafters. This is bloody hard work. This is number one



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

This is number two



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

And so on and on


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## The Bear (1 Jul 2015)

Hi Chris
Looks great so far
Can I ask where you got the rebated feather edge boards from? I looked a while ago and couldn't find any locally. Are they pressure treated soft wood? 6 or 8 inch?

Thanks 

Mark


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## Mcluma (2 Jul 2015)

The Bear":3k708elu said:


> Hi Chris
> Looks great so far
> Can I ask where you got the rebated feather edge boards from? I looked a while ago and couldn't find any locally. Are they pressure treated soft wood? 6 or 8 inch?
> 
> ...




I hadn't seen them until you made me aware of them

I got them from a local supplier in ascot Beaumont forest

You open an account online and they are very good on the price they were sharper on price than Travis (And before anybody starts we have a very high discount account with them!)

Delivery is good too, they had the whole lot nicely bundled and even wraped up in plastic

Yes they are presure treated and come in two widths 175mm and 200mm length is 3600mm


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## Mcluma (6 Jul 2015)

Well cutting these rafters down is blxxdy hard work, it’s that horizontal sawing that is so hard on your shoulders, its just unbelievable, so I need a break of it.

So I bought these door bolts, these are normally used on horseboxes, but I like them as they have a good solid spring in them



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Oh yes, I also bought paint



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

But back to the door bolts, got them fitted last weekend



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Used the screws which I had salvaged from the original hinges, used a bit of candle wax to screw them in. 



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

I’m happy how that came out



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

On with the bottom one, but as you have noticed in earlier pictures, the threshold is not wide enough, so I have to widen it bit, found some cut-offs and after a bit of fancy cutting with my old trusted bandsaw and belt sander 



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr
I ended up with this



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Sanded it down a bit



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

and done



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr


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## Mcluma (8 Jul 2015)

So its back to cutting rafters – I really do not like it, but it needs to get done, than I can fit the fascia boards. These boards are nothing fancy, its just some left over gravel boards. I calculated 16.4 linear meter, which was going to be fine, as I have 3 gravel boards, which I intent to cut through the middle under a 22.5 degree angle. This will then perfectly match the slope of the roof.

Error one, I noticed that only 2 boards are 3m and one gravel board is 2.4m that makes 16.8m. that is cutting it fine. Well if I’m short I have to start using my sons filmprops. He used some of my gravel boards to make a coffin for one of his short movies called “Two line Terrors” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLrJFI-guGY

He also used my gates

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0M-82-0nSLA

And my kitchen floor

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWB8RJeBOFk

So I feel ok in reclaiming some of my wood



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Error two, after having cut these boards in half and offering them up to the rafters I noticed that they do not fit. Where the boards meet the rafter, the boards are at an angle of 12.5 degree, so the fascia needs to be modified.

There is where it went wrong, well it went wrong for my table saw, as I think one of the bearings got busted as the blade is only moving very heavy. I only had to do two more boards – so I had to do them with the circle saw

Repairing the saw will have to wait



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Now they fit perfect



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Next is up is the roof, I have still about 3 ¼ packs left, and this should be more than enough to do the front of the building. Firs up is a starter course, so I have to cut off the tales



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

You need a few



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

The warmer the weather is , the easier they go on, and than they stick pretty good, unfortunately they also get very hot to touch

So the firs course goes on without the tales, followed by a normal course with the tales, I have done an overhang of 30mm



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

And don’t forget to take the plastic white slips off, otherwise they will not stick



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

My wife joined me on Sunday (with a paintbrush) and gave the shed a nice color. Black on the front and brown for the sides and back



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

I think it’s looking very pretty – if I say so myself


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## Mcluma (17 Jul 2015)

Not much to report on, other than I had a nice visit of my dad – he is 85 and came over from the Netherlands to have a look at the house and all the work I had been doing lately. Than Sunday was spend in the garden, repotting plants and putting more soaker hose amongst the plants, however the most important reason for “no work” was that I had to wait on a delivery of roofing tiles




Untitled by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

They came yesterday, and upon a quick inspection…….. yes there is a slight color difference between the old and the new tiles




Untitled by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


Not much, and it will probably not even bother me, as the front is completely done, and these will only go on the side and back. 

So out with the hammer and get roofing




Untitled by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


And we are half way done


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## John15 (17 Jul 2015)

Very nice indeed Chris but I don't like the look of that huge bough only inches from the roof!

John


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## Mcluma (18 Jul 2015)

John15":10gbkig3 said:


> Very nice indeed Chris but I don't like the look of that huge bough only inches from the roof!
> 
> John



I know, its not ideal, but it is, what it is.


I have a good insurance :mrgreen:


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## Mcluma (18 Jul 2015)

Tada,

Found it, it’s an emergency exit kit

At first I thought it was going to be an issue with the lock on the top, but I found that when replacing the top locks with a Pullman kit it could work.

I found on ebay a kit from Allgood, which was already complete with the Pullman clossers – which is a result, as these Pullman closers are not cheap. 

The benefit of these emergency exit closers 
1.	They go very cheap on ebay.
2.	The are complete surface mount
3.	And they all are with the option of fitting a handle and a lock on the outside – I didn’t know that at first.
4.	The quality is first class, heavy, durable, solid

Well this is the kit



Untitled by Chris

Fitting it was at first not so easy, having read the instructions 3 times, it still wasn’t clear. However now it’s fitted and looking back, its dead easy. If I would do it again, it wouldn’t take half as long as it did now. But I’m not complaining, it was nice weather and I fully enjoyed fitting this lock.

First up was the central lock, however I had to be very careful as not to close the door before I had made the outside door handle, as when this door is closed, its closed, no way opening this puppy with a credit card.



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

I fitted an outside door handle as well, I bought the door handle from Toolstation, and this one must have been a returned item as from both handles the crub screw was missing, so frustrating.



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

After all the measuring, and drilling, I’m well pleased with how this



Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



Untitled by Chris



Untitled by Chris



Untitled by Chris



Untitled by Chris



Untitled by Chris

Really pleased how this one locks, on 3 points, rock solid, all what I had expected and then a little bit more.

One more thing to do, and that is buying a euro-lock


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## No skills (19 Jul 2015)

Looks good, a nice project.

Buy the best euro lock you can find, there was a thread here a while ago about what to get (maybe avoset???). Most of the ones available are pretty easy to break, I've done a fair few over the years.


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## Mcluma (20 Jul 2015)

No skills":5wni0wkp said:


> Looks good, a nice project.
> 
> Buy the best euro lock you can find, there was a thread here a while ago about what to get (maybe avoset???). Most of the ones available are pretty easy to break, I've done a fair few over the years.




You mean you picked the locks?


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## No skills (20 Jul 2015)

No I mean break. One swift wack an they snap in the middle (where the fixing screw goes through). Once thats done you remove the bits of lock and poke around in the main lock to unlock it.
The ones with the break off bits on the outside are a minior nuisence but go the same way, most handles do little to protect the euro lock - some of the handles have extra metal round the lock - this just means a larger hammer.

Try to get a lock with a steel plate in it or one with a steel body - I had to break in one of those a month or so ago, had to beat the granny out of it. Much better.

I am not a locksmith or a thief.


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## lurker (20 Jul 2015)

Chris

Euro locks 
I had not seen this until now but you will notice I said much the same as no skills on the other thread.
Once you have one in your hand you will instantly see why they are carp.

A decent (difficult to break) euro lock will set you back at least 30 quid


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## Mcluma (21 Jul 2015)

lurker":3tsr19az said:


> Chris
> 
> Euro locks
> I had not seen this until now but you will notice I said much the same as no skills on the other thread.
> ...




Are there any specific make?

or is it all about the Break Secure locks?


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## Mcluma (21 Jul 2015)

Next and maybe for a while the last thing I will be doing on this Shed

Guttering

Yes I know I still have the soffit’s to do, but I have run out of material. Soon I will be starting on the carport and I’m sure there will be lots of material left over again. 

When we did the house we upgraded all the guttering to deep flow ogee from Flo-Plast- which mend that I had lots of lengths of 4½” gutters left over.

A quick inventory of the stuff, meant that I had to buy a bag of new gutter clips and 65mm pipe clips (If I had looked properly I would have seen that I had enough of them, but I blame that on my age)

The new Gutter clips where bigger than the old ones, so I had to trim them down on the bandsaw- the new ones would not sit flush on the bottom of the fascia.

When I fitted the fascia I made sure there would be a fall on them, which meant that when fitting the gutter clips I could keep them all flush on the bottom

As you can see these old ones from Osma are very thin on the bottom, which makes it look very light when fitted. Also my fascia board is very narrow



Untitled by Chris

Unfortunately I had to drag the gutter out of my borders (that is where I had them stored for 4 years) so they were a bit dirty



Untitled by Chris



Untitled by Chris




Untitled by Chris



Untitled by Chris


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## Setch (22 Jul 2015)

I wouldn't go o nuts on getting break secure euros for this application, as it will be able far simpler for any light fingered scroat to break a pane in the door and pull the panic bar to open the door!

(Not a thief, but I am a locksmith!)


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## Mcluma (22 Jul 2015)

Seth":2rx50slc said:


> I wouldn't go o nuts on getting break secure euros for this application, as it will be able far simpler for any light fingered scroat to break a pane in the door and pull the panic bar to open the door!
> 
> (Not a thief, but I am a locksmith!)



Of course, always possible,

To overcome this weak point
- the windows have been treated with Pentagon Supaglass folie;
- the shed is hooked up and integrated with the house alarm
- there is a security camera pointed at the shed
- the street is part of a private security scheme

Nothing will be 100% burglar proof, I want to slow any potential opportunistic perpetrator down as much as possible.

My last line of defence are these one


Untitled by Chris, on Flickr


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## Mike.S (22 Jul 2015)

A bit late to this thread, which is interesting and informative (especially the pics) - thank you.

A while ago you posted:



Mcluma":1idn7tsd said:


> Next up was cutting in the hinges, and I noticed that on these doors the hinges are cut in on an angle inwards. I have never seen that before. Have no idea what the added benefit of doing it that way is!! – beats me
> 
> 
> 
> Untitled by Chris, on Flickr



I have a few window hinges cut like that and believe it's done that way to prevent any risk of binding between the stile and frame e.g. misaligned/poorly fitted screws being proud of the frame hinge face clashing with screw heads/accumulated paint on the other leaf of the hinge.


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## Mcluma (22 Jul 2015)

Thanks for that info, it was a mystery for me


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## AndyT (22 Jul 2015)

I've seen that approach to hinge fitting taken to the point where all the thickness of the hinge is accommodated on the door, and the other leaf can just be surface mounted on the frame. Not something I'd recommend, as all the weight of the door is then on the hinge screws, but I suppose some builders find it a bit easier to fit that way.

Very smart shed, btw.


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## Mcluma (23 Jul 2015)

AndyT":ua58e8uy said:


> I've seen that approach to hinge fitting taken to the point where all the thickness of the hinge is accommodated on the door, and the other leaf can just be surface mounted on the frame. Not something I'd recommend, as all the weight of the door is then on the hinge screws, but I suppose some builders find it a bit easier to fit that way.
> 
> Very smart shed, btw.




I have not seen that before though


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## No skills (23 Jul 2015)

Nevermind the locks, your Cavalier will sort the scrotes out


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