# DIY floor screed?



## russ_1380 (27 Jul 2009)

Evening all.

I'm trying to change my garage in to a small multi purpose workshop. The floor is concrete.

Currently it is stained, splashed with mortar and generally looks a mess. I would like to have one of those super smooth finishes you see in workshops.

The area is approximately 6x6m. 

Is it worth attempting it DIY? It looks quite a skilled job; best left to the professionals?

has anyone tried this DIY?

Cheers
Russ


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## jasonB (27 Jul 2009)

A screed on its own won't give you that look not even a power flaoted one. it will also need to be approx 75mm thick.

I'd go with an epoxy floor coating with suitable primer and epoxy repair mortar for any holes. I've used watco products in the past.

Just don't make it too smooth as sawdust will make it slippy

Jason


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## russ_1380 (27 Jul 2009)

ah ok, sounds expensive.

I'll have a look at that link you posted 

cheers

R


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## brianhabby (27 Jul 2009)

If the floor is just dirty, what about floor paint. I've used it to good effect and you can get an additive to make it none slip.

regards

Brian


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## RobertMP (27 Jul 2009)

I just laid a polythene sheet over my garage floor and covered it with 8x2 tongue and groove flooring chipboard. The floor wasn't perfectly flat and the chipboard has sagged to the contour underneath but 3 years on it is still fine. Bought the MR version so even when rain comes in the side door because I've not closed it the chipboard has come to no harm.

Made a softwood profile trim to cover the edge at the garage door and screwed it down to the concrete.

Oh and it is unpainted so I can drag stuff around without doing any damage.


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## OLD (28 Jul 2009)

Yes i have done it with Whicks latex based self levelling compound i screwed down thin wood strips to scrape off, filled deep depressions with mortar+PVA then PVA the area. Mix up (drill and whisk ) in large flexible plastic bucket pour and scrape use temp. board retainer between the strips as you work along. Its a two man job really some floating required you soon work out how thick to mix the compo. with water.


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## Boz62 (28 Jul 2009)

I had a bathroom done by a flooring shop before they fitted the flooring  (I bottled out of doing it myself single handed). I was surprised how non-self-smoothing it was. The chap had to go over it with large rubbing block like this, to remove ridges from where he'd smoothed it with a trowel before it dried. Level, yes, smooth no.

Good luck

Boz


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## russ_1380 (28 Jul 2009)

Cheers.

Yes, it sounds as though self levelling is not what I imagined it to be. The garage is a multipurpose 'workshop', mechanics and carpentry. I'll have to investigate some more as it will need to take the weight of heavy machines and maybe a two post lift (if I win the lottery).

At the moment its dirty and lots of unlevell/damaged sections, it really looks a mess. My original plan was those semi rigid plastic interlocking tiles you see, but I had a quote of about a £900! for decent ones. I don't think the cheap ones are worth considering as I'd need to drive over them regularly. 

I'd rather spend that money on other things such as levelling the floor and then buying some cheap tiles for a small area (say 2x2m) so I can work on the floor.

I need to re think the plan

R


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## Derek Willis. (29 Jul 2009)

Having used self levelling compound quite a lot in the past I can assure you that it is alwats neccessary to finish off with a carborundum block to get the final finish, all the compound does is to fill the hollows and make a surface flat.
Derek.


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## gatesmr2 (29 Jul 2009)

Thanks for this thread  

Very useful as i am planing to try and self level a concrete floor, the finish does not matter as long as its flat, as i am going to lay laminate floor.
Have been putting it off for a while because of how easy everyone said it was :? bearing in mind they are actual builders etc and i could see me making a right pigs ear of it :shock: 

But if i understand right may not be the smoothest surface but will be flat which is what i am after.
Have spoken to a helpful man in Wicks who told me the right one to use on a concrete floor so while its still warmish may give it a go.


Thanks Russ for starting the thread

Martin


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## Derek Willis. (29 Jul 2009)

Martin,
Just don't try to make it go further than it ought to, tip it out, and push it around with a plasterers trowel until it finds its own level use a carborundum block to remove afew of the high spots.
Derek.


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## gatesmr2 (30 Jul 2009)

Cheers Derek 

Will have a go and try and get a friend to help.


Martin


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## Derek Willis. (30 Jul 2009)

I'll just add, if you don't get a carborundum block, use a brick.
Derek.


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## Jake (30 Jul 2009)

Compounds vary a lot. Most are self-smoothing at best.

Get some F Ball Stopgap 300 - you will not regret it. Pretty much genuinely self-levelling and absolutely genuinely self-smoothing. You will not need to rub out any ridges.


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## jasonB (30 Jul 2009)

I find a thin strip of wood about 30" long is easier to push it about with than a float.

I would go with the one part powder SLC rather than the two part powder and liquid ones, the Mapei Ultraplan Eco is the one I use most of the time.

Also get a paddle mixer for your electric drill and a 25lts container to mix it up in. Trying to mix with a stick will give lumps and doing it in small batches will give ridges between pours.

Jason


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## gatesmr2 (30 Jul 2009)

Thanks for the advice

The room i intend doing is 13' X 12' how much would i need to cover it in one go. 
I have also layed tiles in the adjoining rooms so have up to 10mm difference in height was looking to lay the laminate and end up with a level surface between the rooms.

Sorry if these seem like daft questions but would like to get it right and you all seem to have done this plenty of times.

Thanks again for the advice 

Martin


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## jasonB (30 Jul 2009)

depends on how rough the floor is and if it needs leveling in the low spots.

But allow 2kg per 1mm thickness per square meter.

J


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## Derek Willis. (31 Jul 2009)

Martin,
You cannot expect to lay 10mm in one go, a maximum of about 5mm is the usual, you would hav to go over the floor at least twice.
derek.


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## Jake (31 Jul 2009)

Again, that depends on the compound - some can go up to 35mm-50mm, and more with fillers added (think pourable screed).


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## Derek Willis. (31 Jul 2009)

Give him a bit of a chance he's never done it before, if you get too tech. he'll give up.
Derek.


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## jasonB (31 Jul 2009)

He only needs a few mm, if the tiles are 10mm above the floor the laminate is likely to be about 7mm so 3mm at the max, less if using underlay

Give him a chance and don't complicate things by not reading the post :wink: 

Jason


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## Derek Willis. (1 Aug 2009)

Suitably chastened, as you say I didn't take it all in, that's what happens when you are just about past it.
derek.


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## russ_1380 (5 Aug 2009)

How did you get on?

I think I might just leave mine as it is for now, its mainly for cosmetic appeal.

If I were to get a 2 post car lift in there, I presume I would need to 'butch' up my existing concrete floor? Has anyone done this?

The post lifts I've seen, just bolt into the concrete floor, I don't know if I'd trust my floor to take that kind of weight/force from the bolts.


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