# A bit of advice please



## tidalcreations (25 Feb 2012)

Hi....I'm a novice when it comes to woodturning. I have managed to turn a few rustic vases out of driftwood that were a success. I sell them in my little online shop. Its all trial and error though....which I hate! I've had a block of wood come flying off the lathe which was really painful. It was my mistake though....I forgot to put the tail stock in. A mistake I won't make again.

The problem I'm having now is the turning of natural egde bowls....or bowls in general. The first one I attempted was a crude success and I was chuffed to bits. The second kept coming off the lathe but was salvagable. Every attempt after that has been a disaster to the extent I've completely lost my confidence. The gouge keeps digging in on the inside and the bowl comes flying off. Its like a horse that can sense my nervousness...lol. I'm unsure of what height the rest should be...I keep adjusting it. How to hold the tool...which tool to use. I've watched videos until they are coming out of my ears....it all looks so easy.

I have a beautiful burr on the lathe just now. The outside is gorgeous....the inside I'm down to a depth of only an inch and the bowl gouge keeps catching. This is as far as I seem to get then off it comes!! Its held on with screws...the chuck wasn't working for me...lol.

So....my confidence is shattered as I know its going to come off and be ruined. I'm being all girly now. I use all the power tools under the sun....but when something goes wrong....I walk away. Can someone point me in the right direction. 

Jane


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## nev (25 Feb 2012)

at a guess, and one of the reasons i had a similar problem, an incorrect or unsuitable grind on the gouge? any chance of a photo?


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## tidalcreations (25 Feb 2012)

Right....when I looked at the gouge, I was horribly embarrassed by how I had sharpened it. Thought I'd include a pic of my terrible set-up  All my tools are rusty as my shed roof is leaking and very damp.


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## petercharlesfagg (25 Feb 2012)

Congratulations on trying something that is outside your comfort zone!

It looks as if you have a lovely piece of timber on your lathe and it would be terrible not to make the most of it!

In the first instance I would say that although your shed leaks there is no reason for your tools to be rusty, cover the lathe with a plastic sheet and when you have finished with your main gouges take them indoors, I did for years until I had enough money to build a custom workshop, a leather or cloth tool roll is very useful.

Judging by the picture of your gouge, my first thought is to lose those wings! (The sticky up bits!) 90% of your catches are probably due to those and removing them will improve the tool handling immensely!

What are you using to sharpen your tools? The ground surface looks particularly rough, most people would recommend a 60 to 100 grit grinding wheel, expensive in the beginning but will pay for itself extremely rapidly in satisfaction of a job well done! The expensive wet wheels can wait until the bug bites really deeply!  

For the first 5 years of my turning I used the cheapest 6 inch diameter grinder from Clarke tools but fitted it with the above mentioned wheel. A set of angled wooden blocks that could be screwed to the bench in front of the grind wheel sufficed as a guide for sharpening.

Above all do not give up hope, we have all been down the same road, I think, so catches are something to live with, I still get them now and again!

Have you got any *good* woodturning instruction books? They will show you better than I can describe what your bowl gouge* should* look like.

Please try again, we all want you to be happy and relaxed in your turning.

Regards Peter.

PS. I too started with a single bar lathe, you will find things so much easier if you use some emery paper on the bar to polish it and then apply something like Lubo from Liberon, wipe everything down after each session and everything will move much better and less likely to rust. (Polish the top edge of your toolrest)

PPS. As regards setting to toolpost, if you sight the tip section of the gouge, level, at the centre of the timber, dependent on the diameter of the gouge the toolrest will be about the thickness of the gouge below centre.


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## nev (25 Feb 2012)

firstly, Hi Jane, welcome to the forum!
I'd say that your bowl turning experience will become a whole lot more enjoyable with a bit of work to that gouge.
Excuse me if I state the obvious, but I'll start at the beginning just in case.

The gouge will need to be ground at the correct angle (varies slightly due to personal preferences), the correct profile (shape, again varies) and needs to be sharp! (doesnt vary  ) 
and the bevel needs to be one smooth constant. something like this from another post




. 

it is this bevel that supports the tool in use so it doesnt bounce around the place. As peter says, the 'wings' you have on yours will dig in almost immediately, as you can see on this one they are swept back so that the tool can be presented at the correct angle to cut without digging in and frightening your trousers brown :shock: 

there are a lot more eloquent explanations out there and you could do a lot worse than investing in the new to woodturning turners bible ...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Woodturning-Fou ... 1861081146

which covers all of the basics of turning including not only the how but also the why to sharpening each tool to a particular profile etc. I really could not do without it when i started (and i still refer back to it now and then when i have a senior moment  )

To sharpen you will need a minimum of a 6 inch bench grinder with a 'white' or 'finer' wheel on it, and an adjustable platform / jig to support the gouge at the correct angle whilst sharpening.

some advice here grinder-help-t57826.html?hilit=grinder%20help

a home made jig is fine, there are some instructions on how to make a simple one in the rowley book
(you can flick through the pages online :wink: )

So question 1. do you have a bench grinder and jig?


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## nev (25 Feb 2012)

... and this lady has a good guide here http://woodworking.com/ww/Article/Sharp ... _7622.aspx


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## tidalcreations (25 Feb 2012)

Can I say a big thank you to you both for your advice!

Peter...you are right. There is no excuse for a rusty lathe or tools....but being a female I could come up with loads =). I am using a grinding wheel but I cant access it properly due to loads of gardening equipment and stuff being in front of it. I have to stretch at an angle to sharpen. Tomorrow, I am going to clear the shed up properly, clean all the tools up and start again. I am totally unorganised and untidy in the shed to the extent its hindering me from doing anything properly! Thanks for the confidence boost though. I am so excited about learning the art of woodturning....exposing beautiful wood grain....and having fun!

Nev....haha....my trousers seem to be brown all the time. The washing machine is tired of them! Its my birthday soon so I'll put in a request for the turners bible =)
Answer 1....yes, I have a bench grinder but with very rough wheels. And no I don't have a jig. I had looked at making one though so I'll have a look at the link you gave me. 

Thank you both again. I'll re-read and digest.....and let you know how I get on.

Jane


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## nev (25 Feb 2012)

tidalcreations":1lr0l710 said:


> ...Thank you both again. I'll re-read and digest.....and let you know how I get on.
> 
> Jane



please do. My only turning instruction is from the Keith Rowley book and this forum. They are friendly bunch on here and i imagine there would have been a lot more replies if they weren't all either in the shed desperately trying to suspend their balls before the deadline! (February challenge) or down the pub drowning their sorrows (if they're English) or celebrating (if they're not :twisted: ) after the rugby :mrgreen:


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## Dieseldog (25 Feb 2012)

Have you thought about joining a local woodturning club....i did and they was and still are very helpful and im sure you will pick up lots of tips from the guys at a club

You could take your turning tools along and im sure they would show you what grinding wheel to use and they would sort your tools out for you... ie get rid of them wings 

Also have a look on Youtube as there is loads of Vidoes on there and ive found them to be very helpful


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## Paul.J (26 Feb 2012)

Hello Jane and welcome  
I would try and get those corners ground off the gouge as these will be causing most of your catches,they don't need to be as far swept back as what Nev is showing to start with,that can be done as you grind the gouge,taking the wings back further a little more each time you grind.
What size bowl gaiuge are you using?
This can be done free hand with patience,and you can use your coarser stone to take most the steel away to reshape it,and finish off with a smoother stone for your final bit of shaping.
Your tool rest should be set so the tools cutting tip is on center to the work piece,also looking at your piccy take the rest past the center of the work so the tool don't fall off the rest when cutting.
How many screws,and what size, have you got holding the work on.Did you get a good tight purchase with the screws?
What size face plate are you using?
You also seem to have your lathe set quite away back from the front edge of the bench,if you can bring it nearer so you aren't reaching as far over.
Are you wearing any face protection?


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## Paul Hannaby (26 Feb 2012)

Hi Jane,
Is that piece of wood you have on the lathe is mounted with the grain running parallel to the bed so you are hollowing end grain?


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## wabbitpoo (26 Feb 2012)

If you have been hurt by flying wood, please make sure you have a good face protector (and lungs, come to that)


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## tidalcreations (26 Feb 2012)

Nev....It does look like a friendly place. I'm looking forward to participating more =)

Dieseldog...I think the local woodturning club is quite a distance away but I'll look into it. I am supposed to be having a professional woodturner coming here sometime. As he lives quite a distance away also, I would like to get a head start with woodturning and get the workshed cleaned up. 

Paul....thanks for the welcome. I'll try and take some of the wings off. Its a 1/2 inch gouge. Its the only bowl gouge I have. I've loads of other tools though, roughing gouges, skew chisels, scrapers, etc. I inherited or rescued the lathe and oodles of tools from a rundown workshop that was going to be destroyed.

There are 8 1 1/2" screws holding it on...and I didn't get a tight purchase with any of them! The faceplate is about 4 1/2". I'll look into getting the lathe nearer the front. 
Face Protection?....Ummm...just goggles.....yeah....I know!

Hi Paul H.....Yes the grain is running parallel with the bed. I guess thats why I didn't get a tight purchase with the screws? I did try and angle them slightly. I can't cut my own blanks at the moment so am limited to what I have....thats another thing I have to address. 

Thanks Wabbitpoo....your comment is duly noted =)


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## richburrow (26 Feb 2012)

keep at it  

what do you mean by
the chuck wasn't working for me...

take a pic and post it up for us to see what is is like.
End grain turning bowls is a swine, however you approach it!!!!!
rich


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## boysie39 (26 Feb 2012)

Welcome Jane , You will get good advice on here, most important to date is GET FACE PROTECTION.


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## dickm (26 Feb 2012)

boysie39":2ih855t3 said:


> Welcome Jane , You will get good advice on here, most important to date is GET FACE PROTECTION.



.... and make sure you WEAR it. (he says, nursing a split lip, having just taken off his chainsaw helmet, thinking that he wouldn't slip onto that sharp ended piece of branch)


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## Phil Pascoe (26 Feb 2012)

An expanding jaw chuck probably wouldn't work in endgrain- the dovetails would be short grained, and would just break off.


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## Wood spoiler (26 Feb 2012)

Welcome to the forum Jane

for what is to follow I apologise  



nev":1ac0l57g said:


> or down the pub drowning their sorrows (if they're English) or celebrating (if they're not :twisted: ) after the rugby :mrgreen:



Thats right we can't all be jammy Welsh relying on poor eye sight of the umpires or lack of knowledge of the rules. It went to TV ref before "advantage over" was called. If the tv is inconclusive the advantage is meant to be with the attacking team. Me a bitter Englishman .... never. We just have to suffer the insults from the subjugated masses! :lol: :twisted: :-# :-# 

ps sorry to hijack your thread Jane.

pps Do keep trying. Nev may be Welsh ... but he is right with his woodturning comments.

ppps Sorry Nev - no real offence intended :lol:


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## nev (26 Feb 2012)

Wood spoiler":33b8lj91 said:


> ...ppps Sorry Nev - no real offence intended :lol:



None taken. Not many of can choose where we're born. Its just unfortunate that some are born on the wrong side of the bridge :wink: 

Sorry Jane


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## Sawyer (26 Feb 2012)

Welcome the to the forum Jane.
As has already been suggested, the bevel profile is all-important and is probably the cause of much of the problem.
Another point though; are you hollowing from the the middle outwards or from edge inwards?
The technique for end grain (cut towards the edge) and side grain (cut towards the centre) are different in this respect, with the basic principle being to cut 'with' the grain, not against it, which invites trouble.


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## Paul Hannaby (26 Feb 2012)

tidalcreations":qg0avb74 said:


> Hi Paul H.....Yes the grain is running parallel with the bed. I guess thats why I didn't get a tight purchase with the screws? I did try and angle them slightly. I can't cut my own blanks at the moment so am limited to what I have....thats another thing I have to address.



Hi Jane, 
No problem with using parallel grain blanks but in those situations and yes, you're right about the screws not holding so well in end grain (one solution to this is to drill and plug with some cross grain dowels so the screws hold better.

A bowl gouge used in the conventional manner is not the best tool for the job when hollowing end grain. You would probably be better off using a hollowing tool and make your cuts from the centre to the edge rather than vice versa. You may find this easier to do by drilling a hole in the center of your piece to the depth you want to hollow it to.

If you don't have a hollowing tool, a round nose scraper can be used or even a fingernail grind spindle gouge rotated by around 60° anticlockwise so the cut is taking place roughly from the centre to the front of the left wing of the gouge.


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## Melinda_dd (26 Feb 2012)

Welcome jane.

When I first started turning I just used a pair of safety glasses and a dust mask..... Then read an article about a lady who was killed by a lump of wood flying off the lathe and hitting her in the face.... scared the bejeebers out of me.

I now have a full face protection visor. It's not an expensive one... think around a tenner but it does deflect any flying bits! I will one day invest in a trend jobby but they're real expensive.
I still wear a dust mask under the visor though.

My workshop (tiny shed that I like to think is a workshop 6x4) was so hard to work in until I decided to clear it, invest in some racking and make it easier to maneuver in.Your enjoyment will double when you've cleared and re organised!

Lastly, keep at it. You don't have be be the best, or create masterpieces..... just enjoy it!


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## Deejay (27 Feb 2012)

Morning Jane and welcome to the forum

+1 for Keith Rowley's book.

There's a lot of useful stuff on the information pages here ...

http://www.peterchild.co.uk/index.html

You could also have a look round on YouTube.

Cheers

Dave


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## tidalcreations (27 Feb 2012)

Hi Rich....here's a pic of the chuck. Its still in the same condition as when I got it. I know...criminal! I came across the receipt also. You might be able to see where part of the bottom has sheared off the piece of larch I was using for a play.

Eugene...I will...I promise!

Dick....Ouch! Don't do it again!  

Phil...I think that is what happened as you can see by the pic. The larch doesn't have a very tight grain anyway. Thanks so much.

Colin and Nev... Gentlemen, please.... :lol: 

Hi Sawyer....thanks for the welcome. I was hollowing from the edge inwards which didn't feel right. I didn't know about the basic principle  

Paul H....Valuable advice...thank you! I'll try by drilling a hole to get me started and attempt with a round nose scraper. I don't think I have any suitable hollowing tools.

Melinda....I will pop into town and get a full face visor before I turn the lathe back on. I'm looking forward to having a fully functional shed again....one where I can move and not trip over things with chisels or coffee in hand #-o Lol....not being able to create a masterpiece first time has always been an issue of mine when it comes to anything I do. I'm trying to live with mistakes and flaws that add character to creations....and most important....have fun  

Thank you Dave. I just had a look at the site.....very useful information there.

Thanks again everyone. This forum is wonderful! I feel I'm learning so much.....I just need to put it into practice. I'm in the process of shed clean up operation.


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## jumps (27 Feb 2012)

Ah the Multistar Duplex Chuck...... I have to say I like it a lot for specific jobs and still use mine from time to time in preference to a scroll chuck.

However, you realy need to be very precise in the diameter of the recess or spigot you turn, including the bevel angles, to get the best out of it's holding capabilities - this isn't specific to this chuck really because all jaws have a sweet spot in terms of their circle diameter, but you have little actual adjustment beyond that with this one. I might add that generally I find I can get a more secure hold with expansion into a recess than on a spigot, especially if the wood is at all 'green'.

I've also noticed it is one of the quickest items I have to 'rust' in the presence of any moisture - the good news is that it also cleans up pretty easily with a bit of tlc! You have a manual which, when I first had mine, I didn't - so discovering where each of the rings etc went to set it up for expansion or contraction modes was great fun  but I got there eventually. Look like you have a range of jaws too - enjoy it.


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## Jonzjob (27 Feb 2012)

Welcome from me too Jane. As you have found out it is a adictive hobby and if you follow the advise given on here then you will soon be enjoying it as much as the rest of us.

I don't have any hollowing tools, so when I'm doing things like goblets or egg cups I use a spindle gouge. It can be slightly alkward if you have a deep hole to hollow, but not too much. Drilling the hole is very good advise too. It gives you a depth gauge, gets rid of a load of wood and makes the job so much easier.

So, welcome to the slippery slope lass!


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## richburrow (27 Feb 2012)

That is a great chuck, really smooth movement!!!!!!
As jumps says get the measurement etc as close as poss.
I have got one and it is a treat to use


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## Paul.J (27 Feb 2012)

Rich.
I'm not familiar with that chuck but would Jane be better off using those spare jaws on pieces like she's trying to do,using a bigger/deeper tenon??
The tenon in the piccy is far too small Jane to hold that size of piece.
You would also be better off if you can by using a 3/8"/10mm bowl gouge.The 1/2" will be taking quite a big cut.


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## jumps (27 Feb 2012)

Paul.J":3ojrp3yv said:


> Rich.
> I'm not familiar with that chuck but would Jane be better off using those spare jaws on pieces like she's trying to do,using a bigger/deeper tenon??
> The tenon in the piccy is far too small Jane to hold that size of piece.



An interesting discussion that is worthy of a seperate thread Paul. The only real 'longer thinner' spigot that could be used here would be a 50mm one located inside the throat of the same jaws (they locate a screw chuck there as well) - and it could be about 50mm long. Personally I don't see that as any stronger and would rather use the largest diameter spigot (but more preferably in a recess/expansion). I believe the other jaws there are for very small diameters - but I may be wrong as they made many variations.


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## richburrow (27 Feb 2012)

Hello there Paul I hope you are well. 
Like Paul said I would say the jaws in the top left of the box look like they could take the longer tennon, it would need to go all the way down and sit right into the jaws. Is that the piece that hit you? When the piece is unbalanced like that one looks, slow the lathe right down, gradually speed it up and the thing becomes more even. Also if it comes off when spinning slowly it wont hurt as much.


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## jumps (27 Feb 2012)

richburrow":37c0g8hv said:


> Hello there Paul I hope you are well.
> Like Paul said I would say the jaws in the top left of the box look like they could take the longer tennon, it would need to go all the way down and sit right into the jaws.



The jaws top left in the box will take a 25mm spigot and support it over, about, 15mm :?: I'm sorry but to me it would be er on the side of foolhardy to mount that piece in that way (homer) They might look a little like o'donnell scroll chuck jaws but don't forget most of that material is the internal jaw location system on the Duplex chuck.

The jaws shown will support 50mm over about 50mm as well as the spigot actually shown - either would be significantly stronger; which would be better will depend on a number of variables.


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## richburrow (27 Feb 2012)

Fair comment jumps, I have fallen for a scale mishap of the eye, my multi is for a different lathe and is very rarely used. I use a K10 and a patriot.


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## jumps (28 Feb 2012)

richburrow":3398mqte said:


> I use a K10 and a patriot.



and I agree that either of these with nice big o'donnell jaws would be a good solution for mounting such an end grain piece securely 

it's interesting to note that the largest K10 o'donnell's are only 50mm, and as such they wouldn't actually offer much more support than using the throat of the Duplex. in fact, with green wood and a bit of precision you can get the best of both worlds using the duplex - but that's another thing and also needs great care to set up.

edit - I went down and checked the Duplex measurements and the throat is designed to take a 38mm spigot, supported for about 50mm. the k10 with 50mm o'donnell would be an advantage as the spigot would be a lot stronger.


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## Paul.J (28 Feb 2012)

Just been reading some old posts about that chuck and it seems it is suited best to small pieces of work.
But those other jaws,on the left of the box do seem to have a gripper on the inside front,suggesting they could be used for larger pieces perhaps??
But as i say i have never used this chuck,just trying to help jane out.


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## tidalcreations (28 Feb 2012)

Fascinating conversation about the use of the chuck and jaws....but I'm kinda lost  I'm trying to understand how to use them properly....so it is very interesting to read.  

Rich...it wasn't that piece that hit me. It was a fence post vase I was making. I do keep the speed to its lowest until the wood is more balanced. I don't think I've had it any faster than the second speed...lol.

Thanks everyone for the advice


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## tidalcreations (28 Feb 2012)

I'm a little embarrassed to post these. The bowl, pot or vessel looks soooo rough! But I wasn't really caring about the roughness just yet....I just want it to stay on the lathe! Grinding back the wings of the gouge have helped tremendously. So far, no catches...but I am taking very gentle cuts. It seems to be taking ages and I'm holding my breath with each cut. I'm still really nervous and have no idea where I'm going with this....  But I've started so I'll finish...hopefully with my smile still intact :lol:

Oh....and the hole I drilled is off centre!


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## petercharlesfagg (28 Feb 2012)

Looking at your pictures I must say that there is *sometimes* nothing better than throwing yourself into the deep end! To my mind this is not one of those!

May I suggest? Stop this self torture now and give yourself the time to turn timber that is more forgiving and will give you both quicker results and the temptation to make more! Eventually your skills will increase and tackling difficult items will not be so daunting.

I can well understand your wanting to complete this piece because you have a complete picture in your minds eye just as you do when picking up the sea glass that you transform into other works of art. 

The potential of a completed object is to be praised, I just wish that I lived closer to Stranraer to offer assistance.

Have you thought of contacting the Irish Woodturners Guild? http://www.irishwoodturnersguild.com/index.html

There may well be a member close to your home whom I feel sure would be willing to help.

I applaud your determination, but am concerned about your safety, health and sanity in tackling something this difficult at the outset. There is so much information being given on this thread it would be easy to get confused and disorientated as to what to try next.

Warmest regards Peter.


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## tidalcreations (28 Feb 2012)

Peter....I've sat and thought about your reply....and you are right in what you say. I've just removed it from the lathe. I am being too adventurous....and too impatient for that work of art when I don't have the ability or skills....yet  

Lol....my sanity, health and safety can take a bit of a break now. I actually feel relieved its off the lathe. Maybe its something I can go back to at a later date?! In the meantime....I'll turn a couple of vases to restore my confidence until I find that piece of forgiving wood  .

I wished you lived nearer here too. The assistance would have been great.

Many thanks for your words Peter

Jane


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## jumps (28 Feb 2012)

Jane,
I can't think of more challenging piece of wood to be turning, and in many ways I agree with Peter's last post. However you are clearly getting someting right to be getting this far - your comment on now using light cuts suggests that your expectations as to how deep to cut may also have been a little off before; more progress!
On an unrelated front, your observation re some of comments on the chuck struck a bit of a nerve when I read them just now, so I ran (sort of) down to the 'shop and spent a couple of minutes with a chunk of old fence post, skew and camera; I hope this is helpful (?)...
With the multistar duplex you have 3 different ways to hold a piece such as this -





Firstly you could cut a recess in it




and with both inner and outer rings in place




the jaws will work in expansion mode when tightened up to hold in the recess




if you remove the outer ring, the jaws work in compression mode (as yours is currently doing) and you have two options available to you. You can either make a beveled spigot to be held in the jaws (as you appear to have done) with the largest diameter jaws and appropriate diameter spigot being best (again as you did), and in this case that would be




and




or, and I think this was the confusion, you could turn a 38mm spigot, up to 50mm long




and locate it in the throat of the jaws




like this





Each will have advantages and disadvantages depending on the material and dimension of the material (here, for example, the recess would be a poor choice because there is little material outside it to support it and, because it would be splitting the wood across it's weakest axis. If you had plenty of spare then the throat will be strongest as the spigot is only slightly smaller than that for the jaws.
Hope this helps


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## Wood spoiler (28 Feb 2012)

I do tend to agree with Peter. The pieces you are attempting are ambitious. 

But I must say that I was offended when I was told that I should spend the first year of woodturning doing repetitive open bowls ... Yeah right - like that was going to happen.

As someone in his second year of woodturning my considered opinion is that you have taken the best possible step to learning the craft ... By joining this forum. I found it to be the very best step towards learning what i needed to do.

By posting your pictures and asking the accompanying question will usually elicit your answer and sound advice. You will find that we all started ineptly but the knowledge and experience of members flows freely. Keep on doing as you are and you will learn what you need to know to create your own masterpieces and equally importantly to do it safely.


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## tidalcreations (28 Feb 2012)

Jumps......Thank you for that! Its crystal clear now. I was confused about the expansion mode...actually about it all...expansion, compression....length of spigot in the throat of the chuck. I was only concentrating on getting a 5mm dovetail joint....I thought that would be enough to hold it. Like you say...its dependant on different factors. I had been reading the manual when you replied. Seeing the pictures helps massively...lol. I shall print them off!
Thanks so much for taking the time in helping me understand  

Thanks Woodspoiler. I wasn't offended. I knew deep down it was beyond my capabilities and needed to be told to step away. I get frustrated when I can't grasp something quickly. I used to have the patience to sit and work on a drawing for 30hrs, mastering different techniques....but I suppose there is a massive difference between holding a pencil to paper as to watching a piece of uneven wood spinning furiously with a rusty gouge in hand :shock: Little steps I reckon!! And taking onboard all this wonderful advice on the forums. I have a lot to learn....and being patient is one of them


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## tudormaker (28 Feb 2012)

Wood spoiler":3mid4jdy said:


> I do tend to agree with Peter. The pieces you are attempting are ambitious.
> 
> As someone in his second year of woodturning my considered opinion is that you have taken the best possible step to learning the craft ... By joining this forum. I found it to be the very best step towards learning what i needed to do.
> 
> By posting your pictures and asking the accompanying question will usually elicit your answer and sound advice. You will find that we all started ineptly but the knowledge and experience of members flows freely. Keep on doing as you are and you will learn what you need to know to create your own masterpieces and equally importantly to do it safely.



I agree with all said when I first started turning just under two years ago I was physically shaking with what I was doing, sharp tools (well I thought so at the time) and a very fast turning lathe, bits of wood flying all over the place.
I watched many youtube videos and joined a forum in America, It is extremely friendly and has taught me many techniques, but does not give much constructive criticism. 
This site on the other hand so far has pushed me further and further. I never thought that I could enter a competition, but have read and studied what has been said here and am getting slowly better (well I think so).
What I think I am trying to say is go slowly and learn to be safe, the wood wont say sorry when it hits you.

Terry


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