# Danish Oil Recoating



## magiccox (28 Apr 2015)

Hi Everyone

I've just moved into a new place with wooden kitchen worktops which around 2 years ago I've been told were coated in Danish Oil. 

I obviously now need to give them a recoat. Has anyone done this who might be able to offer some advice? 

Do I need to sand it down with a very fine grain before re coating it, letting it dry and re coating again a few times or do I just need to add some oil to the surface and rub it in?

Any advice much appreciated.


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## Phil Pascoe (28 Apr 2015)

You might need to sand out any marks, but other than that it should be OK with a light clean up. It might pay to try a small area first, in case some clown has gone over it with silicone polish or something.


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## Jamesc (28 Apr 2015)

As Phil.p suggests. I have had no problems overcoating Danish Oil. I usually give everything a good clean with white spirit and then a very light rub down and clean up with a rag.

James


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## kfenelon (10 Aug 2015)

Jamesc has given you the same advise as I would have done Remember worktops do get lots of action and moisture I would recommend re-coating every 6 months


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## beganasatree (11 Aug 2015)

When I install wooden work tops I tell the customers that they should oil once a day for the first week,once a week for the first month,once a month for the first year and then at least every six months thereafter.This is what I was taught when I started installing kitchens and that was not yesterday,it was some 30 + years ago.

Peter


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## custard (25 Aug 2015)

There's no agreed formula for Danish Oil, different manufacturers use radically different formulations. Some (like Rustins) appear to be a traditional oil finish, others (like Blackfriars) are more of a wiping varnish. 

Unless you know what Danish Oil was originally used you can't be 100% confident that overcoating will work, some are clear that additional coats must be applied between 18 hours and 72 hours after the previous coat, and they're not just saying that for fun! There are some formulations that won't adhere very well to itself once it's fully hardened, it might look okay initially but before long moisture will get between the old coat and the new coat causing it to flake off. 

To be really sure you'd need to sand down to bare wood and start again (not that difficult as Danish Oil isn't very hard and doesn't penetrate far into the surface), as you live there you could alternatively just take a flyer. If it works, fine, and if it goes Pete Tong then you'll know to go straight to the 80 grit and sort it out once and for all!

Good luck.


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