# Safest way to cut a trapezoid strip on a table saw?



## hrk (8 Mar 2016)

Hi, 
I need to cut an 80mm wide strip which is bevelled on each side by 45 degrees so it will look like this \____/ . The strip needs about 600mm long.
I know you are meant to use the short rip fence with the blade facing away from the fence, but my aux fence is quite low profile so will ride up over on the 2nd cut. 

What I wanted to know is what is the "proper" method for making this cut so I know I'm not doing anything stupid. I'm a table saw noob and still at the terrified of the saw stage...
Any input welcome.

Thanks
Neil


----------



## CHJ (8 Mar 2016)

Can you not secure a taller short fence face with double sided tape to your existing short fence.






Or am I missing something?
Can you not hold the piece down firm enough with your push sticks to stop the first cut riding up the short fence?


----------



## sploo (8 Mar 2016)

For extra safety you could clamp a wide featherboard to the taller fence that CHJ has shown; that would help to stop the stock riding up. But, two push sticks for control too, definitely.


----------



## RobinBHM (8 Mar 2016)

You could screw a timber fence to the standard full height fence and have it set close to the blade so your piece runs on the left of the blade. That way the widest face of the work is down and a minimum of blade is exposed. However if you are cutting right to a point it also means the point may end up going under the fence if it isnt tight to the bed.

Another way is make your piece 900mm long, screw it to a strip of mdf and push both through together.


----------



## hrk (8 Mar 2016)

CHJ":9s2ao1r0 said:


> Can you not secure a taller short fence face with double sided tape to your existing short fence.
> 
> 
> Or am I missing something?
> Can you not hold the piece down firm enough with your push sticks to stop the first cut riding up the short fence?




Hi, yes this is how I was going to attempt it so I'm glad I was on the right track!

I do need a higher aux fence first and double sided tape will work.

Many thanks


----------



## Hobbyshop (8 Mar 2016)

You don't say how wide a board you will be cutting the strip from.
I would want to cut this from the edge of a board significantly wider than 80mm.
The first 45 degree cut can be made on the edge of the board, and then the board can be turned over (longest face now down on the table) the fence can be moved closer and the second cut made.
The trapezoid strip ends up on the off-cut side of the blade and your waste is on the fence side, but the second cut can still be made with a vertical edge against the fence.


----------



## Steve Maskery (8 Mar 2016)

Hi hrk

I'm a bit surprised that your fence is so low that it won't support your timber. If you have a 10" blade then your stock won't be more than 2", surely, for a 45º cut? Is your fence really lower than that? I could understand it if you have an L-shaped fence, but then they are usually double-slotted so that they can be used high or low.

If you could post a picture of your setup, that would be helpful.

Good advice above, though, BTW.

S


----------



## hrk (9 Mar 2016)

Hi Steve, 
The saw is a Bosch GTS 10 XC, and the secondary fence looks like this. 






It only has a single groove running down it unfortunately. I'm going to see if I can find a similar aluminium extrusion for it.


----------



## Steve Maskery (9 Mar 2016)

Take it off! For your intended cut, just use the main fence and you should be fine.
And while you are taking off the low fence you can put the riving knife and guard on...


----------



## hrk (9 Mar 2016)

Sorry thats not my saw but an image I found on google with the same fence. Mine has the riving knife on, the guard and the normal fence


----------



## Steve Maskery (9 Mar 2016)

I'm very pleased to hear it 
But you can still remove the low fence, right?


----------



## Jacob (9 Mar 2016)

I've done a lot of bevelled cuts for fielded panels. They go through vertically (it's a shallow angle) but with a false fence with a gap at the bottom so that the triangular waste can fall free and not get flung out when jammed between fence and blade. Maybe it'd work for you.


----------



## hrk (9 Mar 2016)

Yeah you can still remove the low fence. It's just 3 wing nuts. I'll try it without and see how I get on. Thanks all for the help.


----------



## custard (9 Mar 2016)

hrk":1o3jl9f5 said:


> What I wanted to know is what is the "proper" method for making this cut so I know I'm not doing anything stupid. I'm a table saw noob and still at the terrified of the saw stage...



Hello Neil, 

It's perfectly do-able, but firstly try it with the saw turned off and the fence backed off a bit to build your confidence, and then try it on some scrap before you finally commit the work piece. 

The fact is that getting the right procedure still doesn't guarantee precise results. There's quite a bit of operator skill in table saw ripping, more than is commonly realised. You need to pass the workpiece through smoothly and at a consistent rate, your push sticks need to be centred on the workpiece so it's not tipping it over, you need consistent pressure against the fence (tricky with a feather edge), even though you'll have push sticks you must avoid dipping your right hand at the end of the cut to ensure you're well clear of the blade. 

It's a bit like eating with chop sticks, not super difficult but still takes a bit of practise, unfortunately you've chosen a meal here of sweetcorn and extra slippery squid!


----------

