# Table saw fence length



## Flynnwood (7 Nov 2013)

Please discuss re kickback possibilities and UK/US differences of opinion on this matter?

I note the old UK Wadkins have a fence shorter than/or equal to, the rising teeth of the blade. 

And that most modern mass produced saws come with a fence which extends to the length of the table, presumably for a 2nd reference point to establish some sort of (easier) alignment with the blade.

Which introduces other variables regarding quality.

My thoughts (without one to test on) is that Wadkin got it right by keeping the fence short, thereby eliminating the possibility of sideways pressure acting on the stock and causing kickback.

Am I wrong?

I'd appreciate any professional views. My apprenticeship was in another field (motor industry) so I'm trying to relate.

If anyone reading this has not seen a kickback (perhaps unlikely on here but one never knows):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4


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## Richard Findley (7 Nov 2013)

When I was at college we were taught to set the fence roughly to the hook of the front tooth (that's the bit where it stops being tooth and becomes the body of the blade) and I have done this since. It makes me cringe seeing those long fences because I have experienced kickback due to someone else setting up a saw and it isn't much fun!

Richard


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## sue denim (8 Nov 2013)

I am with you on this one. I set the fence to the gullet of the tooth. I cannot see what service the fence offers after that point.

'Sue'


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## PAC1 (8 Nov 2013)

I too was taught to set the fence to the Gullet of the saw. However for the last 9 years I have been using a saw with a full length fence without any issues. A few months ago I made a false fence that fits to the Gullet but I cannot say I use it religiously.


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## nanscombe (8 Nov 2013)

I'm not a table saw user but would imagine that if the fence was not set up correctly and the far end was slightly closer to the blade it would probably cause the wood to pinch and possibly kickback but isn't that one of the reasons for using a riving knife?


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## Jacob (8 Nov 2013)

Short fence. You want the cut off piece to be free of the fence at the point where the cut is completed. Otherwise there is the possibility of it being caught up and slung back. Perfectly possible to do it safely with a long fence but you do risk the sling back.


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## G S Haydon (8 Nov 2013)

Extend the fence at your peril. Yeah, sure you can "get away with it" most of the time, a bit like not wearing a seat belt, most of the time your fine, until that is you go flying through the windscreen. It only needs to happen once............


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## AndyT (8 Nov 2013)

On my cheap and noisy Axminster table saw the fence extends to the back of the table. But it does that so it can hook over the back edge and clamp down rigidly. If it didn't, and was only clamped at the front, it would wobble about dangerously when wood was pushed up against it.
I see it this way - as supplied, it's not really a fence at all, but an anchoring device on to which you can attach a fence of the correct length. It's pre-drilled so you can do this.

It would make a lot of sense if the manufacturers included 20p worth of wood, cut to the right length and screwed into place, to make this clear.


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## mind_the_goat (8 Nov 2013)

I recently used my table saw (cheap DIY shed job) to resaw some stock into thin planks, I was copying a technique from an American Youtube video.
I cut just over half depth, then flipped the stock over and cut through from the other side. To do this I had to remove the guard and riving knife, and as I read this forum a lot I was quite nervous of doing this. I decided to drill some holes in the fence and bolt a shorter fence to it to reduce the danger. As it happens I think my saw is so underpowered that it wouldn't be able to create a kick back as it doesn't go fast enough when sawing. 

It did occur to me that I could have used a shorter riving knife, one that sits just below the height of the blade, does anyone use this when cutting groves? Is it a good idea ?


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## nanscombe (8 Nov 2013)

When doing grooves, I imagine a lot of people here might take a sharp intake of breath, mutter "Too risky" and just reach for their router instead.


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## marcros (8 Nov 2013)

mind_the_goat":2192ldmn said:


> As it happens I think my saw is so underpowered that it wouldn't be able to create a kick back as it doesn't go fast enough when sawing.



You would be surprised, so i wouldnt rely upon that as a feature



mind_the_goat":2192ldmn said:


> It did occur to me that I could have used a shorter riving knife, one that sits just below the height of the blade, does anyone use this when cutting groves? Is it a good idea ?



A shorter riving knife is a simple mod, and neccessry for cutting grooves on the saw. Also for deep ripping, and for some jigs.

The issue with shortening the riving knife is the guarding- the original guard likely fitted to the riving knife and so now wont fit. There are alternative methods though which are safe and do not rely on fixing to the riving knife.


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## Steve Maskery (8 Nov 2013)

The long fence with the hook over the back is made that way simply because the fence itself is so poor that it would not be rigid enough without the hook. The problem then is making sure that when you tighten it up, it stays parallel to the blade. I used to have one like that and it was hit and miss.

I made a fence that located only on the front rail. It was good and I've since improved it further and now it is as good as a Beismeyer at a fraction of the price. It's on one of my DVDs and I know that a couple of guys on here have made it up. It's rock solid.

Although it is the full length of the table, it is fixed only at the front and I use it only as a backbone for a short MDF fenceofr some description. I don't have a photo of either the fence or the short fence, unfortunately, but on the specific issue of why a short fence is safer FOR RIPPING TIMBER (as opposed to cutting sheet materials) I have a video on Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7QXIN2X8-w


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## Mike.C (8 Nov 2013)

My saw which has a full length fence came with a shorter one which as Steve says is attached when you are ripping. Every saw I have owned has come with this second fence, which I always thought was normal.

Cheers

Mike


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## Flynnwood (8 Nov 2013)

Thank you all very much for the discussion/replies. It seems (to me) that there is definately a bias in the U.S. to use the long fence. That's based on the number of 'tutoring' videos I have watched on youtube.

Example (1 min 51 secs):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAIHCzCo90c

One of the Wadkin pics I alluded to:







@Andy "It would make a lot of sense if the manufacturers included 20p worth of wood, cut to the right length and screwed into place, to make this clear."

100% agree with that.

Thanks again to everyone that replied. I've been trying to think of an analogy to similar potential forces that could be allowed to happen inside an engine.

Which highlights the issue even more for me.

After 35 years in the motor industry, the closest I can think of is a broken conrod (extremely rare) which penetrates the engine block.

That's probably a poor analogy but does confirm (in a roundabout way); once the saw has done the cut, space is needed ... definately not any form of potential tension between the blade and fence.


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## blackrodd (8 Nov 2013)

well said!
This is two different operations from 1 compromise machine.
Use the shorter fence for ripping, set the end just beside the gullet of the saw blade,(or the "root" of the tooth)
On big machines the fence had a "lead" in towards the blade. This is to help keep the stock being cut in tight to the fence. aiding accuracy, but not enough to "bind"
The running or dimension saw has a long, or full fence, set parallel to the blade. For accurate cutting of sheet material etc.
Regards Rodders


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## tool613 (8 Nov 2013)

I always get a kick out of these threads of the long fence vs the short fence. The short fence is a position not a style. it is also not wise to view the fence in isolation. The sliding rip plate fence with its high and low plate is only part of the story. To deal with reaction timber and kick back the Riving knife ,short fence/position and crown guard work in unison. HSE is clear on this.

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf

jack
English machines


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## keithkarl2007 (8 Nov 2013)

In the joinery I worked in I cut sheet material and solid material on a large 8' panel saw. During my 13 years there I never experienced kickback and the fence was always extended the full length of the table. In our milling shed though we had a large robust saw similar to the photo above with the short fence. This was used only to rip material before being dimensioned on surfacers and thicknessers.


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## blackrodd (9 Nov 2013)

tool613":3nv8kdkr said:


> I always get a kick out of these threads of the long fence vs the short fence. The short fence is a position not a style. it is also not wise to view the fence in isolation. The sliding rip plate fence with its high and low plate is only part of the story. To deal with reaction timber and kick back the Riving knife ,short fence/position and crown guard work in unison. HSE is clear on this.
> 
> http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf
> 
> ...



Exactly so, basic and standard set up as taught to any apprentice, in the mill/machine shop.
This does fall down when Joe public goes and buys a saw from a retail outlet and isn't cautious enough or doesn't read the directions.. regards Rodders


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## tool613 (9 Nov 2013)

slider don't use a fence or we don't anyway. beside there not much reaction wood is sheet stock is there? Now if your not as lucky to work with select and better grade and are a pallet maker you just might find that lump of wadkin well suited.
mind you a kick back for it may end all hopes of expanding your family. :lol: 


jack
English machines




keithkarl2007":3scj32s4 said:


> In the joinery I worked in I cut sheet material and solid material on a large 8' panel saw. During my 13 years there I never experienced kickback and the fence was always extended the full length of the table. In our milling shed though we had a large robust saw similar to the photo above with the short fence. This was used only to rip material before being dimensioned on surfacers and thicknessers.


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## Paddywack (9 Nov 2013)

I have a fence that is almost the full length of the table and have set it about 1mm wider at the out feed end to allow for jamming and I have never had any problems with kickback or accuracy.


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## Steve Maskery (9 Nov 2013)

Well that can help for ripping, but it introduces other problems.
Any cut where your workpiece is on the left of the blade rather than the right then has the back teeth closer to the wood, not further away.

Furthermore, in your example, if I understand it correctly, you have the back of the fence 1mm to the right c.f. the front of the fence, is that right? Well let us say that your fence is 600mm long and it is 150mm from the front of your blade to the back. The fence is then only 0.25mm clear at the back tooth. That is 10 thou. Wood can move an awful lot more than that as it is cut.

Long fences have their place for some tasks. I couldn't use my tenon jig without one, for example. In fact, cutting tenons vertically is a good example of where toeing out the far end is not a helpful thing to do, I want clean faces on both sides of my tenons, not just the RH face.

But for ripping, a short fence set straight is the best option.

S


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## wcndave (10 Nov 2013)

I am on both sides of the fence with this one, excuse the pun.

For cross cutting, using the fence as a guide you have to make the fence shorter, here I use a block attached to fence as a guide.

For ripping or cutting panels I wish I had a longer fence.

What I am finding is that as I get to the end I have no support and the piece toes out increasing kickback and at best making my cut inaccurate.

Clearly very bad to have pinching in any case, however with a straight fence and a riving knife you are ok as long asyou are sensible.

I'd rather a long fence default and not use it for cross cuts than what I have now and getting trapezoid panels with larger cuts.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk


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## Sawyer (11 Nov 2013)

My table saw came with long fence as standard. A bad idea, as I work mostly in solid timber and do a lot of ripping. The solution was to make my own wooden short fence which clamps on to the long alu. one. The thickness of this gives clearance after the cut - effectively the same as having a proper short fence. The problems I'd been having with the full length fence instantly disappeared.

An easy modification. I'll post a picture when I get time.


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## wcndave (11 Nov 2013)

What problems have you been having with the full length?

I have problems with the short length, including safety issues, and when I see the murricans and their full length fences i get very jealous...


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## heimlaga (11 Nov 2013)

I suspect this is a case of cultural difference. Most Americans are usually preoccupied with small single phase table saws and often they start working from ready planed wood in rather small dimensions while people like Jack (tool 613) and I run old industrial machines with many times the power and start working from big slabs that come directly from the sawmill and sometimes have plenty of internal stresses in them.
There is a huge difference between the torque of a the typical 1 hp single phase table saw that the typical Joe American has in his hobby workshop and the "little" 5hp three phase saw that is on my combination machine which actually is on the small side for some jobs that I do. Where a small saw just stalls a bigger saw will kick back with enough force to throw a 2x6" 10 metres away. I think that is the reson why they haven't run out of fertile men in America despite the widespread use of long fences.

The saw on my combination machine has a fence that ends a little past the arbour of the saw. In 1957 people were less aware of safety matters and this seemingly was the standard on most saws. In my humble oppinion this is an appropriate lenght for most jobs but not for all. 
When I rip or resaw big slabs and cants and orther thick materilals that are likely to have internal stresses and to pinch the blade I clamp a shorter home made 10mm thick iron plate to the front of the fence to act as a short fence. When I use the fence as a guide to determine the lenght of parts that are crosscut on the sliding table I use the same short fence attachment. If I was to cut tennons on the table saw or If I worked a lot of sheet materials I would probably make a long fence attachment as well.

This was the way I was taught to work in vocational school when I trained to become a joiner. We had an old teacher who was very safety minded but not always following the book. The saw we used was very big and fairly modern with an aluminium faced fence that could be set further back or forth. He constantly reminded us of always setting the lenghtwise position of the fence correctly for the work we were about to do. If we didn't he got angry and then told about some very nasty accidents he had witnessed in his youth before this kind of fences vere introduced.


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## wcndave (11 Nov 2013)

Could be horses for courses here. Let me show you what my problem is with short fence for ripping, or for largish cross -cuts, say panels for kitchen cabinets, so 60 x 90.

Here at the start of the cut, i can push against the fence to keep everything straight.







Here, at the end there is no way to keep it straight.






Unless one can determine the exact spot on the workpiece that will perfectly balance friction of the bed, plus the rotational forces, plus the forces of the blade, that piece is going to wander one way or another.

This could be dangerous, and I set my riving knife as close as possible to blade to mitigate that, and it means i don't get straight square cuts.

I tried to make Maskery's plane iron holding jig at the weekend and the result was a disaster because the tolerances required were not met in terms of straightness.

Now heimlaga, if you are cutting rougher stock, that may have larger stresses, then you are not expecting a finished straight edge at this point, so a short fence is safer and better.

For cross cutting boards, a long fence will result in binding, and can be dangerous.

For cutting panels, I believe a long rip fence is in order. As long as you have riving knife, possibly a downforce featherboard, and you ensure your fence does not pinch in on the blade. These panels are nearly always plywood, so I expect no stress forces either.

So depending on what you are doing, I would opine that a long OR a short fence may be the best and safest choice.


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## marcros (11 Nov 2013)

Your short fence is very short. Typically they come to the middle of the blade.


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## wcndave (11 Nov 2013)

Yes, mine does, however there are lots of comments and videos that state that first tooth is all you need.

for cross cutting I agree.

I still get wander with a fence that goes to the far end of the blade, it just shaves some extra at the end, you hear that the cut is finished, and just as you push the piece out you get a little brushing of teeth, which is in fact the dangerous part...


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## Paddywack (11 Nov 2013)

I just measured the run out from the back of my long fence and it is about .5mm not 1mm as I said before, I have never had kickback. I have a sliding table for x cutting and must say that is the best way to x cut on a table saw that I have used.
I don't get the short fence for ripping! what supports the work piece after it leaves the fence, someone show me a video of a sheet of ply being ripped on these short fences and I might be convinced, with my long fence there is always some thing to reference on right through to the last bit of the cut and my fence extends 450mm past the back tooth of the blade. Just my opinion on a method that has worked for me for sometime.
Very interesting thread.


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## wcndave (11 Nov 2013)

Yes, exactly what I was trying to say.

However for cross cut, the below picture is very dangerous. So I just put a stop block in the right place clamped to the fence.







(Mitre fence / sliding table removed for clarity)


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## Paddywack (11 Nov 2013)

I may be stating the obvious but how many people check the Splitter when they change Blades, not all blades are the same thickness. (homer)


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## blackrodd (11 Nov 2013)

WCNDAVE, You say that you have to push against the fence! Sounds as if you're fence isn't aligned to the saw blade. 
If you have a gap between the timber "stock"being cut this would be why.
When I'm ripping I put a false fence on and because the main fence is parallel i shove a piece of fag packet card , upright at the gullet end to "lead" slightly into the saw, maybe 8 or 10 thou, just enough for the saw to work easily. 
Easiest way, get a piece of, say straight 3"x 1" that's been through the thicknesser both ways. 
Mains switch off! align the timber with the saw blade,at a tooth on the front and a tooth at the back/riving knife end with both teeth being used set to the right. 
clamp in place making sure that saw teeth are "kissing" the 3"x1" front and back.
gently bring the fence over just short of the timber and as you lock the fence into position, watch carefully if the locking action is altering the line or gap. 
If adjustments are required, then make a false fence and pack accordingly with the aforementioned B&H fag packet.
Once you know how much, if any, packing is required, you can always taper the fence in the planer. Job done! 
Regards Rodders


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## tool613 (11 Nov 2013)

The sliding rip plate fence is simply that. you adjust it fro and aft depending on the rip cut. To be clear this is not a sheet stock position or wide cut rip . the plate is set just behind the gullet for narrow strip ripping,

see here that the work stops being feed after the last tooth cuts. no need for you to control through the blade as there is no where for the wood to get tramped. keeps your hands away for the blade and this surly is the point. Its takes all of a day to brake your bad habits from the long fence ripping techniques that USE JIGS and get used to where the feed pressures are applied for good control and cut with the short fence. Now it goes with out saying your saw is properly calibrated with riving knife and crown and 2 push stick with run off table.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luS0q1GmjxM

jack
English machines









wcndave":3f3bg6u6 said:


> Yes, mine does, however there are lots of comments and videos that state that first tooth is all you need.
> 
> for cross cutting I agree.
> 
> I still get wander with a fence that goes to the far end of the blade, it just shaves some extra at the end, you hear that the cut is finished, and just as you push the piece out you get a little brushing of teeth, which is in fact the dangerous part...


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## wcndave (11 Nov 2013)

blackrodd, My fence is perfectly aligned, with perhaps a thou toe out at the end for safety without compromising a straight cut.

I don't push hard against the fence, what I mean is I use the fence to run the wood along. if the fence is short like some suggest, I get a problem at the end like Paddywack says. I too would love to see a video where a plywood panel is cut on short fence to change my mind.

However I have watched hundreds of vids of yanks using high powered saws and a full fence, and I have not heard of problems when the are being sensible.

Of course an silly person can take any set up and make it dangerous.


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## Steve Maskery (11 Nov 2013)

Dave
Plywood would be cut on a long fence, not a short one. The short fence is for ripping timber, not panel-cutting.
Now about that plane ticket...
S


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## blackrodd (11 Nov 2013)

Steve Maskery":35h07egw said:


> Dave
> Plywood would be cut on a long fence, not a short one. The short fence is for ripping timber, not panel-cutting.
> Now about that plane ticket...
> S



Precisely! I do believe this is what we've bin saying. 
Regards Rodders


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## Sawyer (12 Nov 2013)

wcndave":utiomzhr said:


> What problems have you been having with the full length?
> 
> I have problems with the short length, including safety issues, and when I see the murricans and their full length fences i get very jealous...


 
Pinching between the fence and uprising section of the blade (despite the closely set and NEVER removed riving knife). I do plenty of heavy ripping - large oak planks, straight from the sawmill, anything up to 4" thick. Large enough to be difficult to push perfectly straight and often with internal stresses. Once, cutting a particularly large and difficult piece (far too heavy to kick back), I spoiled a good blade by overheating and soon afterwards made my false fence insert. This allows the cut piece to move away from the blade instead of pinching against it because of the fence.

Once the workpiece is beyond the tooth gullets on the top side, the fence's work is done and any extension beyond this point is nothing more than a potential wood trap.

That said, when cutting sheet materials, which are unlikely to pinch the blade, I usually use the full length fence supplied with the machine.


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## wcndave (12 Nov 2013)

Cutting straight from the sawmill - or any kind of rough cutting i have no problem with short fence. (Personally i use bandsaw for this, i find it easier)
You all agree for sheet goods the long fence is better.
Cross cutting short fence, or no fence, just a stop block.

For finish cutting of real wood, I still find a short fence doesn't quite work for me, the wood wants to turn a corner around the short fence and i get a little extra shaving of the end. sort of side on snipe if you like!

with a riving knife, straight fence, and using a grrrripper which holds it down, and has a toe to prevent it coming back, I still feel quite safe with that. If it doesn't "feel" safe, it's probably not (for me) and I change technique / tool.


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## tool613 (12 Nov 2013)

Dave

What feels safe in not always safe. all the cuts before an accident felt safe! I think you miss the point of what the short fence *position* is. HSE has come up with what is clearly safe working practice for the industry and with due consideration to guarding. There is no feel safe in there training. These regs were imposed on the industry to reduce injury at the table saw and many other machinery and have done so that's a fact that is well documented. The reg include what a machinery dealer /maker needs for equipment on a machine for it to be safe. The sliding rip plate high low fence is one of them. With in this fence there is a long fence for sheet stock and short fence for ripping reaction timber a low fence for narrow strip and bevel ripping, and high fence for up right work. one is trained in its use and it is drilled into them the safe practice. 

The american fixed through bessy stile fence has none of these features yet its toted as the best fence in the world and very safe based on control. This control is to guild the work through the entrapment of blade a fence and this is done so by placing your hand near the blades or to reach through with push stick into the danger zone.. *I always ask if the wood was removed very quickly where are my hands? * Most armatures and week end wooddorker don't know any better when they were sold the after market bessy long fences and are under the pretense that you can add all kinks of jigs to make cuts safer. The joke is the fence is the main problem. It fouls the crown on narrow strip ripping so how can this be a safer or better fence if it lacks the basic fence functions that have been around for some 30 years , And yes the griper is just another gizmo to continue to use the long fence with its short coming and by it very nature needs the crown removed to allow your hand in the danger zone over top the blade. 

If you looking for feels safe your on the right path.

for others that want the facts HSE and the sliding rip plate fence is out there.


http://sawdust.online.fr/Saw/RipFence/en_Fence.php

jack
English machines
.


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## Paddywack (12 Nov 2013)

I am more confused now than ever, why do I have such a long fence on my table saw, surely the manufacturer doesn't suppose I am only going to do sheet stock and not need a short fence to rip short stock. If I am to slide my big fence back it sticks out in the most awkward place. I am all for education and safety so feel free to point out the proper use of these things, old habits die hard but limbs don't grow back.


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## Sawyer (13 Nov 2013)

As promised, some pics. of the false fence I made for my TS.







[attachment=0]


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## tool613 (13 Nov 2013)

very nice Sawyer! looks very easy to attach.

just like adding a short fence to a long fence i added a long to a short to track jigs. here is what i came up with for a tenon jig on an old wadkin PK.



























jack
English machines


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## Sawyer (13 Nov 2013)

It just slides on or off, Jack. Takes about 1 second.

Cor! that jig's a work of art!
** drools over the Wadkin PK** =P~ =P~


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## markturner (13 Nov 2013)

When my new Felder machine arrived and was set up, the technician set it up so it "Toed out" past the blade - IE at the point where the stock meets the blade, its accurate, but when the stock goes past the blade, it has a very small gap, to stop binding and kickback. I always use the sliding carriage to make rip cuts and only use the supplied fence as a bump stop.


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## markturner (13 Nov 2013)

Jack, I have just picked my jaw up off the floor when I saw your pictures..... :shock: :shock: 8) they are the complete definition of machine porn...I absolutely love that beautifully restored machine and that fence you have made, it's exquisite........envy envy......

What is the story of the restoration etc...do you have further pictures etc I can look at ? 

regards, Mark


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## gwr (13 Nov 2013)

Wow jack that saw is tool porn at its very best. I'm with Mark would love to see more pics if you have any thanks.


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## Paddywack (13 Nov 2013)

Mark
My Felder was set up the same but like you I now use the sliding table, I have just fitted some Campshure clamps from the States and it takes the scary bits out of using my Table saw for ripping or x cutting.
That is some set up on the Wadkin.


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## nathandavies (13 Nov 2013)

if you haven't seen any of jack's stuff before then you have may evenings of tool porn ahead of you, videos photos etc. i'd wait until the missus is out though, she'll think you've lost the plot.

nathan


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## doctor Bob (13 Nov 2013)

Looks great, lovely workmanship but honestly it would drive me nuts having all that hanging off my saw. The push thingy would always be in the way.

Short fence for me most of the time but it's a slider so easy to make long if needed






it is a long fence but I have it pulled right back


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## tool613 (13 Nov 2013)

Bob

i would agree that you may find it a pain but the PK is a very special saw for solid wood not sheet stock. its swinging an 18" blade in a very small foot print. I would find it a pain too if it was my only saw. we don't have a panel saw in the shops because we try to avoid sheet stock when we can. We get by with the Wadkin PK and a small 10" General(Canadian made) in the bench shop and have a big 14 belted Poitras rip saw in the mill shop. Worked on a big slider in the 90s and my back still hurts from trying to do joinery from the side of the machine. I have never seen a saw that can do everything though the pk comes the closest IMO.

I don'r want you think the PK is just a pretty. its is still a useful saw at 70 years old. here it is cutting end block for a counter in a kitchen we just finished. we don't do many so i can't say we miss a big slider.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwLp_4B45xM









jack
English machines


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## markturner (17 Nov 2013)

Please give us some links to photos etc of your projects..........

thank you


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## tool613 (17 Nov 2013)

I am still quite backwards in today's standards and don't have a web site . our work is all word of mouth. I still hand draw planes and so am slow compared to most. I will have to get with it some day.






























jack
English machines





markturner":nlidxk43 said:


> Please give us some links to photos etc of your projects..........
> 
> thank you


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## blackrodd (17 Nov 2013)

Was it Crocodile Dundee that said, "Sawbench? naah, THIS is a sawbench"!
Fantastic sawbench and set up.
G'wan, show us yer planer!
Regards Rodders


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## Tony Spear (18 Nov 2013)

Flynnwood":3ac2owj0 said:


> After 35 years in the motor industry, the closest I can think of is a broken conrod (extremely rare) which penetrates the engine block.



That reminds me of a cartoon 40 odd years ago in one of the motorcycling magazines which I've never forgotten:

Editor dictating to secretary: "Dear Sir, the symptons of a broken con-rod are - big bang, awful silence!" :lol: :lol:


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