# Norwegian wood(shop) build



## Krysstel

I have to admit that this thread will for a while be after the fact as I'm actually finished with the external build but bear with me and we'll soon be up to date  
Ground zero in late April 2019 was this corner of the garden then occupied by an apple tree and various bushes.
On it will stand a wood frame building on a cast concrete slab. This will be partially buried in the sloping terrain with the back and end walls being partially constructed from cinder blocks.
Outside dimensions 4.5m x 7.5m.
I'll be doing all the construction above ground myself and none of the ground or concrete works !


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## Krysstel

As soon as the ground thawed out and the weather improved in early May the man with the digger got started. His brief was 100% complete and ready for me to start with the wood  

End of day 2 :


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## Krysstel

Half way through first week


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## Krysstel

end of first week and read for the slab to be poured


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## Krysstel

Being Norway the ground will freeze for several months in the winter. The ground works and foundations therefore get quite complicated. 
We first excavated to a depth of about 1.5 meters and 1m around the building and filled this with course gravel that was vibrated and compacted. The first layer of blocks are u-shaped, filled with concrete and reinforcing steel. This forms the foundation for the rest of the block work walls.
IMO we could have used insulated cinder blocks for the rest of the block work but my builder preferred the stronger uninsulated construction blocks since we were building below ground. Instead we insulated them with EPS on the inside and XPS on the outside. All the blocks were then filled with concrete at the same time as the floor slab was cast.

How does all this compare with how something similar would be built in the UK ?

More to come  
Mark


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## Inspector

I can't speak to the UK but in the Vancouver area of the West Coast of Canada where the climate is much like the UK they dig to just below the frost line (75cm give or take). Put in concrete forms and either pour the footing (approx 60cm x 15cm to 20cm thick) in concrete and when set would then put forms on top and pour the walls (15cm to 20cm depending on the size of the wall). Or would do the same in a single pour. Blocks are used sometimes but not often and they would be still laid on a concrete footing. Other parts of the country use blocks more often.

Here in Saskatoon where winters can get to -50C the footings are 3 meters or more below the ground.

ICF (insulated concrete forms) foundations are used by some in both places with under slab insulation sometimes used on the West Coast and almost always here. Here foundation walls are insulated on the outside but out west it may only be on the inside.

On the West Coast they sometimes pour a slab with a thickened perimeter and where bearing walls would be in one pour.

Naturally the soil conditions and size of structure play a big roll in the type of foundation. 

Pete


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## Krysstel

Interesting Pete. ICFs are also very common in Norway but it was cheaper to use blocks for the small amount we were doing here. 

On top of the initial gravel fill we put a layer of 50mm XPS insulation all around the building area and 1,2m out. That was then covered over by backfilling with gravel close into the walls and soil otherwise. I guess it's about 15-20cm down. This is a common method used in Norway to avoid frost creeping under the slab and lifting the building.

Under the slab there's also 100mm of EPS insulation laid on top of the gravel. The slab itself is 100mm thick.

In the initial gravel fill we buried 100mm perforated drainage pipe all round the building and several meters sloping away under the lawn. 

Mark


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## Krysstel

Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately !) I was at work when the big pour was done so havn't any pictures of the events. But apparently it went according to plan and here's the finished foundations. Now the fun part starts


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## Krysstel

So here's the floor plan as was when I decided where the windows and door would be. 
Any thoughts or ideas on a better layout ? I'm definitely open to suggestions as I'm still no where near filling the space up with tools and machines :lol: 

One thing I'll probably change is to swap the metalwork bench with the dust extractor. The assembly table will also be a full 1.2 x 2.4 (8' x 4')


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## Droogs

I would have the router table, mitre saw and PT in a line on the back wall, easier to feed dust extraction to and have them all at the same height, set into a support bench unit or with fold down rollers to provide support to long pieces


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## Vann

Krysstel":3pvhg2al said:


> ...Any thoughts or ideas on a better layout ?...


I see you have the sharpening station near good light, but far from the metalwork bench. I think I would have tried to get the metalwork bench, sharpening station, and pillar drill together at one end - so that all my metal fileings occur in the same area.

Cheers, Vann.


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## Fidget

A bigger door to get things in and out!


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## Krysstel

Fidget":1r4y0t33 said:


> A bigger door to get things in and out!


Yes, you're not the first person to point that out :| However, for the past 10 years I've worked out of a basement workshop with the same size door and never had an issue with it being too small so I hope this will work. :wink:



Droogs":1r4y0t33 said:


> I would have the router table, mitre saw and PT in a line on the back wall, easier to feed dust extraction to and have them all at the same height, set into a support bench unit or with fold down rollers to provide support to long pieces


Good idea thanks :wink: I look into that possibility.



Vann":1r4y0t33 said:


> I see you have the sharpening station near good light, but far from the metalwork bench. I think I would have tried to get the metalwork bench, sharpening station, and pillar drill together at one end - so that all my metal fileings occur in the same area.
> Cheers, Vann.


In my latest plan the dust extraction is pushed into the corner and the metalwork bench relocated beside the pillar drill  

Thanks for all your suggestions and ideas :wink: 
Mark


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## Krysstel

Finally it's my turn to do something  

From early in the planning I was determined to have maximum internal height in the room and that meant using a glue-lam beam for the ridge beam. At 7.5 meters length and with Norwegian building regs for snow loading etc it came out as 140x495mm x 7.5m and an approximate weight of 250kg :shock: The building site is as far from the road as it's possible to get on our property so there was no other option than manhandling it (with the aid of a trolley built on gocart axles  ) the 30 meters from where the truck delivered it to and lifting it into place with a block and tackle !


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## Krysstel

Ready for lifting.

I built the back wall and half the gable ends first. The idea was then to slide/winch the beam up and onto the supporting cradles.

Ground zero :-


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## Krysstel

I built a temporary framework for the block and tackle to hang from above the beam and started lifting :shock:


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## Krysstel

A terrifying couple of hours later and it was up and in. =D>


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## Inspector

My shop is above the 2 car garage and has scissor trusses over the long dimension on the 24' x 28' (7.3m x 8.5m), no beams, to give me a clear span and greatest hight. The roof pitch is 4/12 (18.4º) with the inside having a 2/12 (9.5º). I have 9' (2.7m) along the walls and about 11' (3.4m) in the middle of the shop. They were lifted up to the roof with a telescoping handler, basically and offload forklift from a rental company. Once up on the roof easily set by the two framers. With your smaller shop they could have been lifted up by a couple strong guys and ladders. I will watch the rest of the build unfold to see how the rest is done. Interesting to see how people approach their builds.

Pete


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## flying haggis

that beam is way bigger than the 140x95 you stated, so for our curiositys sake what is it??
nice place for a workshop though and a good looking one so far


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## Krysstel

flying haggis":1a4o9lbr said:


> that beam is way bigger than the 140x95 you stated, so for our curiositys sake what is it??
> nice place for a workshop though and a good looking one so far



140 x 495 x 7500mm.

Mark


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## Krysstel

There were 28 roof trusses to make so I set up a temporary production shop in the carport


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## Krysstel




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## Krysstel

Inspector":756ddk8s said:


> My shop is above the 2 car garage and has scissor trusses over the long dimension on the 24' x 28' (7.3m x 8.5m), no beams, to give me a clear span and greatest hight. The roof pitch is 4/12 (18.4º) with the inside having a 2/12 (9.5º). I have 9' (2.7m) along the walls and about 11' (3.4m) in the middle of the shop. They were lifted up to the roof with a telescoping handler, basically and offload forklift from a rental company. Once up on the roof easily set by the two framers. With your smaller shop they could have been lifted up by a couple strong guys and ladders. I will watch the rest of the build unfold to see how the rest is done. Interesting to see how people approach their builds.
> 
> Pete



I seriously considered scissor trusses but based on the quotes I got in it was cheaper with the glue-lam and self made trusses.

Mark


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## Krysstel

Hi again all  

Thought maybe I should say something about the materials I'm using for the build.

Starting at the bottom I bolted pressure impregnated sole plates to the foundation walls. Under them I used a thick bitumen tape that comes on a 15cm wide roll.
All the walls are built from standard C24 timber (is that CLS in the UK ?). The long back wall is 48x148 (2" x 6") and all the other walls are 48x98 (2" x 4"). The rafters are also C24, 48x198 (2 x 8).
The ridge beam is a spruce glue-lamination, 140 x 495mm. The support posts that hold up the ridge beam are also 2 x 6.
Later I'll be battening out the inside with 2x2 and cross insulating the whole building from the inside with an additional 5cm. The back wall will also first get an additional 10cm (making 25cm total) as an additional noise barrier towards the neighbours :wink:


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## Krysstel

So moving rapidly on  
Didn't take any decent pictures for the rest of the walls and trusses etc so we jump forward to the finished framework. First picture was take 30th June which is almost exactly 1 month since I laid the soleplates. Not bad considering that was only weekends and evenings


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## Krysstel




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## Krysstel

After 10 years of working in a basement with 1.9 meter ceiling height and minimal daylight the most important criteria for the new shop were maximum internal height and space and as many windows as possible !

To the underside of the ridge beam is just over 3 meters  

Mark


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## MikeG.

Krysstel":3phjqfqn said:


> ...... C24 timber (is that CLS in the UK ?.......



No, you're confusing two different types of things. One is the planed & rounded-over edges of construction timber (CLS), and the other is a strength grade.


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## Krysstel

Wasn't confused, just badly formulated sentence. Sorry  
Should have written "standard construction timber, grade C24". :wink: 

Here the terminology is K-virke (construction-timber) which covers all planed and 4 corner rounded timber used for studwork etc. Is that what is termed CLS in the UK ?
The grading C16, C24, C30 etc is as you say a strength grading used both here and in the UK, and elsewhere I imagine.

Mark


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## Trainee neophyte

It's starting to look suspiciously like my house. I hope the main beam is going to be on display.


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## Krysstel

Trainee neophyte":1vsv0k5f said:


> I hope the main beam is going to be on display.



Yep, at least partly it will be :wink:


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## Woody2Shoes

I think that CLS stands for 'Canadian Lumber Standard' - which relates to the sizing/dimensions (and I think the rounded arrisses)

e.g. https://www.sydenhams.co.uk/timber/soft ... r-standard)/

Cheers, W2S


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## biskit

Nice build Krysstel. What heating are you having? Wood stove I hope :!:


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## Osvaldd

I thought I've heard the phrase Norwegian wood before.

https://youtu.be/Y_V6y1ZCg_8


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## Krysstel

biskit":3acer65u said:


> Nice build Krysstel. What heating are you having? Wood stove I hope :!:



2 electric oil filled radiators.
No wood stove unfortunately !

Mark


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## Krysstel

For some reason all the pictures I previously added to this post have vanished and been replaced by small "image" icons. Any one know why ? :? 

Mark


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## Inspector

I see the first as a thumbnail and with the exception of the roll the rest are a little blue box with a question mark in it and they don't open. So something happened. Were they linked to an outside hosting site or loaded to the forum directly?

Pete


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## Vann

I see the first one fine. All the rest a just a circle with a dash in it #-o .

Cheers, Vann.


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## CHJ

The Google links are broken in some way or no longer relevant.
This was the first image reference.


Code:


[attachment=0]2019-09-16 16_07_34-Windows Media Player.jpg[/attachment]



This is from the first missing image


Code:


[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vsx8BXf3OcufoAMvqS1QnIw_iMUloxheK9vqfyQ8mxoECv8k0u9ZSjmLCATYvayT0McTgQLK4FI17gD5ni-RPVrcXGxjRx3eyy-jDtSnvKHqLqVE98hqumkKTQbhnNrAPjAEwFM82Ss0cHWR4t7Kn5ZxsTeltes4fXH6bLHjdKsQeaHupX9zwnHz-cP45vMIA5VoRjNmKT72uxNHbFVvQJcgim637qjeqF6LF3X5yQp1fdUik7Y06OLnySX3-rXVe_BRtIeY8WX5Mngruu_TuCk9S8U7OYLzQeHd6inGaBSTBGAsCiyoNkZBfEzhfnhqAFrxcL4RO7A3Z-vGllM5MIR-CUCMcfTRKZ9i4glxSUcx0EXJkl74xY1IWOnNixaYUWksNDtn7cSBDYiZLj6fxXR7Oe6Pxdtnqc5hmrrLqtq5KwX-1kVrKyY8PylVKaMf7m_51RzoGd3GU6Qs5v_j1-Ey06u1C18PBk773v7BWP0dfc-b2Fx4KNJSWqnvsANePEOfCSDXG4Y4f954yb1_FpCrXZXEiPkbE-SErGAX1UxK7VNgJnZfQGsmqpN3TfSYyO4vNFnwsJl7khqCdljiJKxAnqEAZtjWEeISY68aZU3ooK8Cc3CjOUXYmy-9GeLiNp3GgCUelx9lDe62b99eaH4p5UFsLSiLRRPzoJeuV3IS3Ci7lZ8C6r0=w1184-h888-no[/img]


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## Krysstel

Thanks for everyone's help. I've replaced all the pictures with .jpg files instead of links to Google. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

Mark


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## BigMonka

Krysstel":crrkcb61 said:


> Thanks for everyone's help. I've replaced all the pictures with .jpg files instead of links to Google. Hopefully that will solve the problem.
> 
> Mark


Buy more importantly... where are the next set of photos?


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## Krysstel

By popular demand here comes some more pictures  

I'd temporarily stiffened up the structure with diagonal bracing on the inside of the frame but the real strength against racking comes from the external cladding. In addition, instead of the normal house-wrap I used 12mm asphalt covered fiberboard nailed to the framework. This both stiffens the construction, helps with sound deadening and gives some increase in insulation.


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## Krysstel

The fiberboards rest on 11x23 pressure impregnated batterns I fixed all the way round the building. The whole lot was then covered over with a very sticky breathable tape that seals the border between the foundation and the wall construction.

Mark


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## Krysstel

After the fiberboards came the batterning to create an air gap behind the cladding. I used 23x28 for this.
Then it was on to the cladding. Ready primered boards saved a lot of time and were only slightly more expensive than unpainted. As an extra precaution I used treated boards as the first board. 
The whole back wall is also treated boards as this is towards a line of trees and I intend to leave this unpainted.


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## Krysstel

The last thing necessary to get the building watertight (apart from the window holes !!) was the roof.
I used this beathable membrane which is stretched over the rafters and held down by pressure impregnated 36x48 batterns.
Across the first batterns I then attached 30x48 using 16cm external grade screws down through both layers of battern and into the rafters. The roof tiles are then simply hung on the 30x48's without any fixings (nails, screws etc).
I think this is a pretty standard way of building a roof in Norway.

Chears  
Mark


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## Krysstel

Time to seal up all those big holes in the walls  

The windows are double glazed units with glass that's supposed to have better sound absorption than standard. They're side hinged with duplex (stuck on :wink: ) frames and with air vents at the top. Ready painted off white. 
The door is a similar design.

The norm in Norway is to seal the window frame to the opening with breathable tape and use a ready made steel flashing over and under. On the front wall I dropped the flashings above the windows/door as the roof overhang takes care of the same function.

Mark


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## MikeG.

Looking great, Mark.

We went through a phase of counterbattening our rooves over here some 20 years or so ago, but it was dropped after testing showed that there was enough airflow through our typical roofing materials to render it unnecessary. I presume you are going to fit some sort of sheet material (pressed metal, for instance), hence the need for the additional airgap?

(_Battens, BTW, not batterns_)


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## Krysstel

MikeG.":ijmvpwgj said:


> Looking great, Mark.
> 
> We went through a phase of counterbattening our rooves over here some 20 years or so ago, but it was dropped after testing showed that there was enough airflow through our typical roofing materials to render it unnecessary. I presume you are going to fit some sort of sheet material (pressed metal, for instance), hence the need for the additional airgap?
> 
> (_Battens, BTW, not batterns_)



To be honest I'm just following standard practice here as I don't know any different  

All I know is that before breathable membranes became the norm here we used to build with a ventilated space between the insulation and a boarded subroof (I've seen a similar method used in Scotland on Grand Designs). Then the battening was a lot lower; 11mm as first layer and 23mm counterbattening, whilst now with breathable membranes and no subroof the recommendation is to use much thicker battens. The spec from the roofing supplier I've used gave different thicknesses for different roof sizes, pitched etc. With my 22 degree roof, 3m from foot to ridge and 7.5m long the minimum recommendation was 36mm first layer + 30mm counterbatten. I'll be using concrete roofing tiles and to hang them safely you really can't go any thinner then 30mm in my opinion. We don't fix them down here. They come formed to simply hang on the batten. 

I'll post pictures of the roof tiles and flashing etc in a while.

Mark


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## Krysstel




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## Krysstel

After finishing off all the cladding it was on to the roof tiles. 500 of them had to be hand carried about 50m from where they had been delivered to and round to the workshop build, and then up onto the roof


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## Krysstel

The type of tiles I used do not require any form of mechanical fixing but just simply hang from the batterns.


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## Krysstel

The ridge is finished off with a membrane tape that has a open gauze in the middle (the black part in the picture) and glues down along the top row of tiles (the red part). The ridge tiles then cover the tape and makes the ridge as good as watertight, but breathable.


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## Krysstel

At the eaves and on top of the fascia boards it's normal here to use ready made metal flashings. I used tile red at the eaves and white on the fascia top-board.


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## Krysstel

Roof tiles, eave and fascia board flashings all done


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## Tealeaf

Really like this build and loving the look, very neat. Great job and thank you for the ongoing pictures of the progress!

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


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## Vann

You'll be pleased, you're nearly finished. You can start moving your hand tools and machines into their new home soon. I'm envious.

Cheers, Vann.


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## Krysstel

Detail around windows.


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## Krysstel

This is as far as I got with the exterior this season.
Managed to get all the guttering and down pipes installed and a coat of paint on all that matters before the autumn weather closed in. With winter just around the corner I'll be concentrating on the inside from now until Christmas. 

Mark


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## Jonathan S

Super work Mark....nice to see how you do it in Norway.....a little different to here in southern Spain. 

Thanks for posting 

Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk


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## Krysstel

Jonathan S":1elam6m2 said:


> Super work Mark....nice to see how you do it in Norway.....a little different to here in southern Spain.
> 
> Thanks for posting
> 
> Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk




Wait until you see the amount of insulation I'm putting in :lol: :lol: 

Mark


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## Krysstel

OK, here we go with the insulation, Norwegian style !!! :lol: 

I went for something new (at least to me). Compressed wood fiber insulation.
It's supposed to have all kinds of wonderful properties as well as being environmentally more friendly etc etc. The thing that appealed most to me was the increased sound absorption.
Supposedly it's so nice to install that you don't need any protection wear, mask or anything. But I soon discovered that was a load of BS ! That wood dust goes and gets everywhere; eyes, hair, inside clothes....... I ended up in full white suit with hood, goggles and mask and the whole job tuned out being horrible !

I insulated in two rounds. First layer was 20cm in the roof and the back wall towards the neighbours and 10cm on the two end walls and the front wall. I then cross battened the whole room, walls and ceiling, with 2" x 2". Within this outer 2" all the electrics will be installed.

Looks straightforward in the pictures but this was a long, boring, dirty job  

Mark


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## Inspector

How does that insulation compare to traditional fibreglass, rock/mineral wool and styrofoam? The R value for each in whatever units you guys use. I assume it is treated against bugs and fire somehow? 

Early insulating was with sawdust poured into wall cavities and spread around the attic and now we are coming full circle using wood again.  The shop is looking good.

Pete


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## Krysstel

Inspector":1gss82b2 said:


> How does that insulation compare to traditional fibreglass, rock/mineral wool and styrofoam? The R value for each in whatever units you guys use. I assume it is treated against bugs and fire somehow?
> 
> Early insulating was with sawdust poured into wall cavities and spread around the attic and now we are coming full circle using wood again.  The shop is looking good.
> 
> Pete



Here's the stuff I used :- Hunton Nativo


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## MikeG.

How does it compare? It is a less efficient thermal insulator, so you need a greater thickness. However, it works easily, is pleasant to work with, absorbs moisture and releases it slowly (so is compatible with vapour-permeable walls), and, as has been said, is a decent acoustic insulator.


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## Inspector

Thank you gents. It's an insulation material I'd never heard of and was curious. The real test will come with time. If it gains popularity and is still in use in a couple decades, it's a success. Except for the lower insulation values it is a natural for this country. We have more than a few trees.  My house is double walled with 9 1/2" (24cm) plus sheeting and dry wall which is R40 in the measurements used here and the ceiling is insulated with R80. My shop has 2x6 walls with R19 fibreglass and R40 in the ceiling. I'd have preferred more but costs were a factor.

Pete


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## RobinBHM

I see

The lambda value of Nativo Wood Fiber Insulation Boards is 0.038 W/mK

PIR has a lambda value of 0.021 W/mK

which I guess means the wood fibre is a bit under half, so 100mm of celetex will be roughly equal to 200mm of Nativo.


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## Inspector

What is Celetex? A foil faced glass fibre board?

Pete


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## Krysstel

Nativo Wood Fiber is fairly new here in Norway as well. I've heard of it for a few years but never used it myself nor know anyone who has, although it seems to be quite readily available. Must admit I wasn't overly preoccupied with the thermal qualities and more interested in the acoustic advantages than anything else. With 25cm in the roof, 25cm in one wall and 15cm in the other three I'm confident it'll be warm enough, even when it gets to 25 below outside !!

Mark


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## Krysstel

Onto the electrics.

Now I'm no electrician but this is probably quite different to how it's normally done in the UK ? But pretty standard practice in Norway.
Basically wherever you see a red wall box in the pictures there'll be either a socket outlet or a switch of some kind. The ones in the ceiling are either for connections to the roof lighting or for sockets I'll be using for a dust filter, pull down cord and so on. Around the walls they'll be a total off 12 double socket outlets spread over two 16A circuits. The plan is to run the dust extractor on one circuit and a machine (bandsaw, PT, router etc etc) on the second circuit, thereby never overloading the 16A circuit breaker we use on each circuit.
Between the wall boxes we use flexible plastic conduit with 3 x 2.5mm2 wire (+, - and earth) pre-installed. This saves a load of installation time and 2 of us managed to mount all the boxes and pull all the wiring in the about a day and a half.
The fuse box by the door will contain a main breaker + four x 16A circuit breakers, one of them 3-phase (we have 230V 3 phase here) for my Wadkin AGS-10 . The workshop is fed from the house by a 40m long x 10mm2 underground cable with a separate breaker (I think it's 40A ?) also installed in the main fuse box in the house.
By law we cannot do any of the connections ourselves so a qualified electrician will come to install the actual switches and sockets and everything in the fuse boxes etc.

The last 5cm layer of insulation will be cut and installed around the conduit and wall boxes before I panel the walls.

How does all this compare with UK methods ?

Mark


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## Jonathan S

Your wiring looks simular to the system we use here in Spain....its a good system.

The uk system is a little different...well they do still drive on the wrong side of the road[FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk


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## Trainee neophyte

Regarding compressed wood insulation, I have had a bit of a thing for light clay slip straw infill as a wall building method. Haven't used it yet, but it is on the list. I wonder how similar this technique is to your "modern" insulation?

http://www.theyearofmud.com/2012/03/01/ ... raw-house/

(Warning: hippy-dippy tree-hugger green building methods)


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## Vann

Krysstel":1fedgtt4 said:


> Onto the electrics.
> 
> Between the wall boxes we use flexible plastic conduit with 3 x 2.5mm2 wire (+, - and earth)...
> (snip)
> ...By law we cannot do any of the connections ourselves so a qualified electrician will come to install the actual switches and sockets and everything in the fuse boxes etc.
> 
> How does all this compare with UK methods ?


In New Zealand we would have used British Standards until maybe 40 years ago. I don't know how different we are now.

We don't use individual wires, but three wires (phase, neutral & earth) for single phase, inside a _tough plastic screen_ ("TPS").




For sockets we use _2.5mm twin & earth TPS_ cable, while lighting circuits are usually _1.5mm twin & earth TPS _cable.

When the cable is used within an enclosed wall, no conduit is used. When the cable is surface mounted, it is enclosed in a conduit like you have done (although straight conduit is normally used, with flexible conduit used for awkward routes).

Unlike the enclosed red boxes you use for sockets/switches, over here we used to use steel boxes like the one on the right (below).








But moulded plastic boxes are now the norm. They're open at the back and too flimsy for my liking. I reuse old steel ones if I can get them out without too much damage.

Like you, a registered sparkie is required to connect the cables at both ends.

I've not heard of 230v 3 phase here. 3 phase is normally 400v. And we're 50hz like UK, Australia, and (I assume) most of Europe & Asia.

3 phase is usually run in 4core TPS (3 phase wires + earth) or 5core TPS (3 phase wires, neutral & earth).

Cheers, Vann.


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## Krysstel

I believe 230V 3-phase is unique to Norway (and maybe Sweden ?).

My Wadkin AGS10 (vintage 1963) is an export model that was fitted with a dual voltage 230/380V 3-phase motor. And an adjustable riving knife that rises and tilts with the blade. 

Mark


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## Inspector

North America is a hodge podge of different voltages and every province and even cities have variations on the national codes. #-o Im not qualified to explain the differences. :roll: I did find this, that seems to show everyones voltages. https://ctlsys.com/support/electrical_s ... _voltages/ Houses don't normally have 3 phase but with Variable Frequency Drives it is simple to run 220 delta wound motors off the 220V single phase and get the variable speed as a bonus. House wiring is something like the New Zealand cable shown and usually called Romex, probably a trade name that became common. Also if in the middle of the wall, doesn't use conduit and our boxes are steel or plastic, either readily available. Plastic boxes have backs. I've never seen anything like the OP's style of wiring here. Our electrical panels are much more complicated. My shop and garage below is served by a 100 amp sub panel off the 200 amp main panel with 15 and 20 amp 110 circuits along with 15, 20 and 30 amp 220 circuits (I could have had 400 amp but at a much higher monthly rate).

Pete


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## Krysstel

Time to seal it all up  

After all the electrics were in I cross-insulated with another 5cm of the wood fiber insulation and then covered and taped the whole room with a new (to me) type of breathable vapour barrier.

Mark


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## Krysstel

The ceiling was then covered with these ready finished 12mm thick chipboard panels.


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## Krysstel

And the walls first got a layer of 12mm plasterboard (sorry, no photos) followed by a layer of 12mm ready finished (white) MDF panels.
The idea behind the 2 layers was to aid noise reduction. I've read that 2 layers of different materials break up the sound waves and improve sound absorption. I also specifically chose plasterboard and MDF (instead of chipboard for instance) as they are both dense materials.


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## Krysstel

As soon as all the walls were paneled I got the electrician back to connect everything up.
In the fuse box by the door we now have :-
1 x 40A main breaker
1 x 16A 3-phase circuit
3 x 16A 1-phase circuits.
One of the 1-phase circuits is dedicated to lighting and heating and the other 2 will be for general machine and power tool use. There are a total of 24 socket outlets spread around the room + 3 along the ceiling for the 2 machine/power tool circuits.
The 3-phase circuit will be only used by my Wadkin AGS10 table saw.
The ceiling lighting consists of 10 x 43W LED strip lights, each giving 4000 lumens. These are split across 2 switches with 5 on each, alternately connected so I can light the whole room with only 5 on or with all 10.

I wasn't really happy with having the whole room white and therefore chose to paint all the walls a blue-grey colour. With so much ceiling lighting it's still way brighter than I really need !

Getting close now  

Cheers 
Mark


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## Krysstel

Straight on the concrete floor I laid a 2mm plastic vapour barrier sheet and taped the overlaps.
I then laid 23x48mm batterns loose on top with 25mm insulation between. I did consider screwing all these down to the concrete but it would have been a lot of work and is that floor going anywhere once all the machines and benches are on top ?!

The finished floor is 25mm thick pine tongue and groove planed floor boards, B (second) quality. After a lot of research this proved to be almost the cheapest thing i could build a floor from. A few of the boards were a bit rough but for a workshop floor are more than good enough. And wood is so much nicer to walk on then concrete  
I finished the pine with 3 coats of water based (very) matt varnish. It turned out great  

And that's about it. Right now I'm busy moving machinery and tools and after the new year I'll start on cupboards and benches etc.

Mark


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## mindthatwhatouch

That’s what I like about the Norwegians.
Fantastic Quality.
Good Job.


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## Krysstel

mindthatwhatouch":2vhbw3ta said:


> That’s what I like about the Norwegians.
> Fantastic Quality.
> Good Job.




Well I don't claim to be one. Just live here :wink: 

Mark


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## Krysstel

Wandering Wadkin :shock:


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## Inspector

Looks like the wheels should come off and sleigh :deer runners put on instead.  

Pete


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## BigMonka

Great job. That looks too nice inside to be a workshop! I’d love that as a guest house


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## Krysstel

The Jet PT went the same way as the table saw


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## Krysstel

And that's about it  

I've got a lot of benches, cupboards and drawers to build, and a complete new extraction system to install, but all the machines (bar the pillar drill) are now in place and set up.

First up after the new year will be the arrival of this EXTRACTOR

Thanks for watching  
Mark


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## Inspector

Thanks for taking us on your journey. It's been interesting and you're going to enjoy it.

Pete


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## SammyQ

Mark, please be informed I now utterly, butterly, HATE you....you have so much ROOM!!!!  

Sam


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## Krysstel

SammyQ":2flfxv73 said:


> Mark, please be informed I now utterly, butterly, HATE you....you have so much ROOM!!!!
> 
> Sam



:lol: :lol: Well, it may look a bigger space in the pictures I took with the panorama setting on my phone but in reality it'll soon fill up once there's a bench or two and some cupboards etc. It's certainly no more space than I need to get around. What makes a real difference to the feel of the room is the high ceiling. I'm SO glad I used that ridge beam even though it was a lot of extra effort !
The floor area is 30m2 (4.1 x 7.2m).

Mark


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## SammyQ

Enjoy it Mark. I moved house and lost 35' x 10' of an insulated workshop and gained a 16' x 8' draughty garage....just pure jealousy on my part!  

Sam


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## Krysstel

SammyQ":1gn18u7p said:


> Enjoy it Mark. I moved house and lost 35' x 10' of an insulated workshop and gained a 16' x 8' draughty garage....just pure jealousy on my part!
> 
> Sam



Yes, I see.
35' x 10' = 350 sq ft = 32m2 or almost the same size as me :wink:


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## SammyQ

Yes, not all that was insulated I hasten to add, but the extra room to stack timber as it was processed, line up long stuff etc is sorely missed. Once I draught-proof the garage, I am highly motivated to extend its pitched roof outward into the driveway to form a carport/ working area. Might be cold as the hobs of hell in our north wind, but at least it would be dry underneath. Its an old concrete slab, prefab garage and no way is 8' wide enough to cope with modern car widths, so no pressure to accommodate the horseless carriage. Got other matters pressing now, fingers crossed I can get at it by summer. 
Enjoy yourself in there!

Sam


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## Krysstel

Time for a short update  

Before I can build any cupboards and benches I had to have something to build them on. A big assembly/outfeed table in front of the Wadkin was therefore always going to be first priority. They'll be drawers for power tools underneath but I got interrupted by the arrival of a large piece of new machinery :shock:

The table is 1.1 x 2.2 meters. The framework is redimensioned 2x8 left over from the build. The top is 2 layers of 16mm MDF screwed and glued together and edged with birch. The end walls are 12mm poplar ply.











Mark


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## Krysstel

After way too much deliberation I finally got tempted by their Black Friday 10% sale and order this BEAST from Scott and Sargeant  

The order was for a single phase 3hp extractor but what arrived was in fact 4hp (but still single phase) :shock: 
Time will show whether the breaker can stand the additional 750W !
















Mark


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