# A question for Steve Maskery



## Random Orbital Bob (5 Sep 2013)

Hi Steve

I don't want to put you on the spot so if you didn't want to answer this I would understand...but.....

Having made (very fine) tenon jigs for both table and bandsaw which would be your personal preference? I only ask because I'm toying with the idea of building one myself and generally I tend to gravitate towards the bandsaw, just friendlier, easier, less noisy, safer etc. Given you've experienced both, your perspective would be valuable.

Many thanks


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## marcros (5 Sep 2013)

Good question- I was wondering myself the other day which jig to build. The tablesaw one is obviously limited by the cut of the blade, but for most applications, the 80mm max cut would probably be ok. I will be interested to see the answer.


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## Random Orbital Bob (5 Sep 2013)

I reckon so...I was also thinking that whilst the bandsaw is a more forgiving and friendly tool generally...it also leaves those little saw marks. Now in a tenon that might actually be an advantage because it could help channel the glue and perhaps achieve a stronger bond than a pure smooth joint which the TS would give. (Rather like the deliberately manufactured ones in Festool's domino's)


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## Random Orbital Bob (5 Sep 2013)

bump....you out there Steve??


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## Random Orbital Bob (5 Sep 2013)

bump


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## Steve Maskery (6 Sep 2013)

Sorry, only just spotted this.
You are not going to like this... it depends.


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## Random Orbital Bob (6 Sep 2013)

I'll let you off the hook Steve  It was unfair to ask really


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## Steve Maskery (6 Sep 2013)

All right, all right...

UTTJ:
Very clean tenon surfaces
Fast
Accurate
Flexible - tenon can be dead central or offset to match mortice if necessary
Tenon length limited by blade height
Workpiece length limited by height of ceiling or general size and bulk of workpiece

UBTJ:
Clean tenon surfaces (with the right blade)
Unlimited tenon length (but width limited by height under blade)
Fast
Accurate
Flexible - tenon can be dead central or offset to match mortice if necessary
Very reliant on BS being well set-up

In short, I'd use the UTTJ for smaller work (such as furniture-making)and the UBTJ for bigger sections (such as a front door).

Incidentally, in the videos, I show how to use the UBTJ for bridle joints and lap joints. It would be only a very small mod to make the UTTJ the same, it's just that I didn't have that idea when I made the UTTJ, it was a later development.

HTH
S


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## Random Orbital Bob (7 Sep 2013)

Awesome Steve...well answered....thankyou


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## Steve Maskery (7 Sep 2013)

One more thing.
The UTTJ has fine adjustment built into it, so you can move the tenon over by 0.1mm very easily. This is important when making face frames, for example, so you don't have to plane off the faces of all the rails and the backs of all the styles in order to get everything nice and flush. Do one test tenon, see how flush it is, adjust jig accordingly and away you go for your whole batch.
As presented in the DVD, the UBTJ relies on the fine adjuster on your bandsaw. If yours doesn't have one then you can either build the one from WE4 or you adjust the position of the tenon with a nudge here and a nudge there.
However, I have recently built a version with in-built fine adjustment, without increasing the overall width of the jig (which is important if you have a small saw with limited throat).
I don't have it drawn up, but if anyone is thinking of building the UBTJ and would prefer in-built FA instead of the FA fence (although that is a very useful addition in its own right, of course) then I'd be happy to talk them through the necessary mods. It's basically a 1:10 sliding motion. I'll post a photo.
S


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## Random Orbital Bob (7 Sep 2013)

Very useful...again thanks Steve. I also find (not just for face frames but any flush fitting rails and styles) the little step that dogs a poor joint very frustrating. How many hours of planing and sanding have I done..........(to fix that)

So I agree a 1/10 mm adjustment function is amazingly useful. Of course your jigs design to reference off only one finished face is also very well thought through to eliminate thickness wander across rails and styles.

At a point when you're ready I think it would be a great idea to publish the mod as version 2.0 (Cant you edit and re-release the original bandsaw DVD with the extra footage?).


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## Steve Maskery (7 Sep 2013)

Yes, but not for a while. Although I have access to the BS in the Community Workshop, it's never quiet enough in there. I can hardly ask everyone else to stop what they are doing while I film a sequence.
S


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## Random Orbital Bob (7 Sep 2013)

No sure. Just a thought. I've read a number of posts so I have some idea of your recent life change. If you wanted to continue making cabinet making related DVD's you're welcome to use my workshop. It's a triple garage, very light with all the usual suspect machine tools and I run a business from home so am around during the day. I'm also not bad behind a camera either 

I think your sort of expertise and coaching/mentoring skill is just what this country/craft/forum needs on an ongoing basis and I would be happy to facilitate it should you consider it.


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## Steve Maskery (7 Sep 2013)

This is the latest incarnation of the UBTJ. I've added another layer to the bottom so that the whole jig can slide to and fro, and thus side to side. It still needs a scale fixing to it.
Routing the skewed keyways was a nightmare, but I've now sussed out how I could have done it much more easily. At least, I could on my own router table, the one we have in the Community Workshop is less accommodating.

Thanks very much for the offer!
S


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## Random Orbital Bob (7 Sep 2013)

Most welcome


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