# Wall Clock (loads of pics)



## motownmartin (25 Feb 2009)

I wanted to make a Wall Clock out of Oak for the Kitchen.

I set about sketching some designs and came up with this











First job was to dimension some stock on the table saw and thicknesser






Next I cut a rebate for the face on the Router table, the cutter wasn't ideal as one of the flutes was badly damaged but managed to to it okay in 2 passes.






Next I made the clock face, this is made from Oak faced plywood and cut out on the bandsaw the drilled a hole in the centre for the clock movement













I forgot to chamfer the the edges of the stock, I done this with a bearing guided cutter although there was no need as i used the fence on the router table, I fixed on the split fence as I can attach the dust extraction, this works brilliantly and all the chippings and dust gets removed.










Time to cut the outer segments, there are 12 of these and each cut is 15 degrees, being so many its important to get it spot on, if you are a little bit out it becomes magnified 12 times on the completed frame :shock: 






Now to put it together, I used masking tape (damn, I didn't take a photo) anyway all the segments were laid on the masking tape so I could roll it around the plywood face, first I done a dry run just to make sure everything was okay






Then the glue up, the mitres look pretty good and it wasn't as difficult as I thought.










So far so good, hopefully some more pics tomorrow.


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## John. B (25 Feb 2009)

Martin,
Brilliant so far. Am looking forward to the next stage. 
I just love WIP pics, they are so informative. =D> =D> 


John. B


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## motownmartin (25 Feb 2009)

One thing that I wish I had done differently was the ply face, it wasn't quite big enough, what I mean is that it would float from side to side exposing the edge, it has been glued but to make it an easier assembly I shall increase the diameter next time.


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## Blister (25 Feb 2009)

Looking good so far :lol: 

What does the back look like ? did you line up the edges of the 12 sections around the circle of the base ?

O and the time is wrong , you post was at 1.35 :wink:


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## big soft moose (25 Feb 2009)

looking good , but a tip if you do it again - if you drill the centre hole before cutting outon the bandsaw you can make a jig (nothing fancy just a bit of ply with a nail in it clamped to the table) , to allow you to rotate the board on the bandsaw and thus get a perfect cicle with no fear of wandering off line


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## motownmartin (25 Feb 2009)

Blister":3n956q4t said:


> Looking good so far :lol:
> 
> What does the back look like ? did you line up the edges of the 12 sections around the circle of the base ?
> 
> O and the time is wrong , you post was at 1.35 :wink:


 The time is right twice a day :lol: 

The back looks exactly like the front, only the ply is only faced on one side with Oak.

I shall post some pics of how it went together in a bit.


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## virtu (25 Feb 2009)

Would'n you like to replace IV with IIII?

That's more original roman numeral use and looks a tid more balanced on the clock face.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roman_numerals


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## motownmartin (25 Feb 2009)

I put another one together this afternoon and took some photo's of how I did it.

Positioned them end to end on the masking tape






Applied the glue






Rolled them around the ply face






Clamped to together with a band clamp


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## motownmartin (25 Feb 2009)

virtu":3rac49b8 said:


> Would'n you like to replace IV with IIII?
> 
> That's more original roman numeral use and looks a tid more balanced on the clock face.
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roman_numerals


will do, I have already purchased the numerals and they are as you say


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## motownmartin (25 Feb 2009)

big soft moose":376pzzp7 said:


> looking good , but a tip if you do it again - if you drill the centre hole before cutting outon the bandsaw you can make a jig (nothing fancy just a bit of ply with a nail in it clamped to the table) , to allow you to rotate the board on the bandsaw and thus get a perfect cicle with no fear of wandering off line


Thanks for the tip, I was thinking of doing similar on the router table but it was so easy to cut on the bandsaw and you cant see the edge.


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## OPJ (25 Feb 2009)

Nice work, Martin. I'm not sure how else you could cut those small segments (safely!) with anything other than an accurate table saw. With your router table setup, I do exactly the same thing (using a split fence for extraction) when I'm working off a bearing-guided cutter with straight stock. It also gives you a means of guarding too. :wink:  

Will you be adding any splines to reinforce the joints?


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## motownmartin (25 Feb 2009)

OPJ":1hxsw7t2 said:


> Will you be adding any splines to reinforce the joints?


Yes I shall be tomorrow, I have just glued up a little carriage/guide/jig to do it with, shall update later on tomorrow.


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## brianhabby (25 Feb 2009)

It's coming along fine - nice mitres.

Will be watching this one intently as I think the design is really nice

I'm curious about that router table fence and the way the dust extraction fits to it. Was it part of a purchased table or are they available separately? I ask because one of the _(many)_ things on my to do list is a router table.

regards

Brian


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## motownmartin (25 Feb 2009)

brianhabby":2h21a2aw said:


> It's coming along fine - nice mitres.
> 
> Will be watching this one intently as I think the design is really nice
> 
> ...


Hi Brian, the Router table I built myself and the fence is from Incra, very pricey but well worth it, if you want to know more I did a thread on it Here feel free to ask any questions though.


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## MikeG. (25 Feb 2009)

motownmartin":13cl3jkv said:


> Thanks for the tip, I was thinking of doing similar on the router table



Martin,

I would be very careful about trying to cut a disc on the router table. It is possible, but you can end up with the router cutter acting as a small gear, and the work acting as a large gear, spinning wildly. Not hugely dangerous............but not hugely safe either........and it wrecks your workpiece.

This is a really niece little project...........good to see a clock being made without benefit of a lathe (where is that "ducking for cover" emoticon?). Why are you making two?

Mike


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## motownmartin (25 Feb 2009)

Mike Garnham":1v6rkg83 said:


> This is a really niece little project...........good to see a clock being made without benefit of a lathe (where is that "ducking for cover" emoticon?). Why are you making two?
> 
> Mike


Hi Mike, unfortunately I don't own a lathe but on the other hand I like to produce something that's not available to buy.

Why am I making 2...............I am making more than 2, One for our KItchen, One I already have sold and I hope to sell a few more as I've had a fair bit of interest, if they don't sell they will go to the family at Christmas


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## brianhabby (25 Feb 2009)

Martin,

Just read through all 11 pages of your router table thread, very interesting. I have the Incra mitre gauge so I know it's nice kit, but as you say, pricey.

I have the same plans knocking about somewhere - one day I may get round to actually making it, I've book marked your thread for future reference.

regards

Brian


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## brianhabby (25 Feb 2009)

Just checked - that Router Table thread has had over 25,000 views - is that a record?

regards

Brian


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## motownmartin (25 Feb 2009)

It's well worth the effort Brian its the best bit of kit I have, the box in my avatar was made on the router table.


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## Woodmagnet (26 Feb 2009)

It's looking very nice Martin 8) , can't wait for the
next installment. :wink:


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## Blister (26 Feb 2009)

Martin

Thanks for the second set of photos . 

I now see the disc is fitted in the grooves , 

I thought you fixed it on the back :wink:


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## Derek Willis. (26 Feb 2009)

Just me putting in my two-pennorth, cut your circles whichever way that suits you, but cut a spare and keep it then you can trim on your router table with a bearing guided pattern cutter next time you want one, I have about twenty-five circle blanks for this purpose, so much easier.
Derek.


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## motownmartin (26 Feb 2009)

I have managed to make a carriage for the next operation on the router table, its for cutting the slots for some splines











The slots ready for the splines, they are only small but will add a little more strength and some decoration.






I am going to use Sapele for the splines, I ripped some long strips on the table saw the cut to length on the chop saw, time to apply the glue






I placed the in a sash clamp just push them in as far as they could go, this pic also shows the reverse of the clock.






A close up of the inserted spline albeit a little blurred, have to wait for the glue to dry before i can start trimming them off, that'll be in the moring hopefully.


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## Woodmagnet (26 Feb 2009)

Good advice Derek :wink: , and nice looking jig Martin 8)


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## brianhabby (26 Feb 2009)

That jig looks like a good idea, I've done something similar in the past for mitres. Those splines should prevent the mitres from ever opening up.

regards

Brian


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## OPJ (26 Feb 2009)

Good-looking jig, Martin.  

Although I'm sure your work won't suffer from this, splines are generally cut and fitted so that the grain runs in the _opposite_ direction to the segments. I reckon you've got enough overlapping fibres there anyway, so I wouldn't worry about it this time. :wink:


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## motownmartin (26 Feb 2009)

OPJ":fe6wgwuq said:


> Good-looking jig, Martin.
> 
> Although I'm sure your work won't suffer from this, splines are generally cut and fitted so that the grain runs in the _opposite_ direction to the segments. I reckon you've got enough overlapping fibres there anyway, so I wouldn't worry about it this time. :wink:


There isn't a lot of choice Olly, or is there? if I were to have the grain running in the opposite direction would it not split in this instance :? or am I missing something.

The jig is quite simple, a few bits of scrap cut at the right angles and glued in the appropriate positions.


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## motownmartin (27 Feb 2009)

The glue is dry, now to trim off the excess, I had to be careful here as the Sapele tended to split if I took too much off so I just nibbled it off little by little










Next I rounded over the outside edge






After a good sanding I applied a coat of Danish Oil






I love the way the Sapele looks (if I had a decent camera instead of my mobile phone you'd be able to see also  )






It almost looks like the drawing  






Thats all for about 5 or 6 days as I have to do a block of 12 Hour night shifts


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## Lord Nibbo (27 Feb 2009)

Very nice design, Both swmbo and I like it and it's coming on handsomely :lol:


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## Blister (27 Feb 2009)

Martin , this is looking very nice =D> =D>


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## motownmartin (27 Feb 2009)

Thanks chaps

See if you can help me choose which numerals to use, I like the smaller ones






These are the hands I shall use


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## Blister (27 Feb 2009)

motownmartin":1xc96ctp said:


> Thanks chaps
> 
> See if you can help me choose which numerals to use, I like the smaller ones
> 
> ...



I like the darker ones :lol: 

the others look a bit too much like bling , too bright for the timber :? 

just my opinion :wink:


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## wizer (27 Feb 2009)

Blister":307abepu said:


> I like the darker ones :lol:
> 
> the oters look a bit too much like bling , too bright for the timber :?
> 
> just my opinion :wink:



agreed


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## Jenx (27 Feb 2009)

Another vote for the darker hands from me too ...
1. They look "Classier"
2. They suit the wood more that the 'shiney's'


Thats going to be a lovely clock ( clock*s*) ...

very nice indeed Martin,
8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)


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## brianhabby (27 Feb 2009)

Another vote for the darker ones.

Clocks are looking great so far.

regards

Brian


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## John. B (27 Feb 2009)

Third one down, that's my vote. =D> =D> =D> =D> 
That's a handsome clock, not too fancy, not too plain. Just right. :lol: 

John. B


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## motownmartin (27 Feb 2009)

Would you believe that the shinier ones were £2 a set and the darker set were 70p, and yes I think you are right they are so much better,


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## Woodmagnet (27 Feb 2009)

=D> =D> 8)


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## big soft moose (27 Feb 2009)

just throwing a cat into the works and a spanner amongst the pigeons , have you considered not using numerals at all ? or maybe just at 12 , 3 ,6, and 9.

most people can tell the time just from the position of the hands and the clock looks so good that it might be a less is more type situation


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## MikeG. (27 Feb 2009)

..........or carving them?


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## big soft moose (27 Feb 2009)

Mike Garnham":lz1k9zzl said:


> ..........or carving them?



---- or pyrographying them ?


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## motownmartin (1 Mar 2009)

big soft moose":3ap5t2zh said:


> just throwing a cat into the works and a spanner amongst the pigeons , have you considered not using numerals at all ? or maybe just at 12 , 3 ,6, and 9.
> 
> most people can tell the time just from the position of the hands and the clock looks so good that it might be a less is more type situation


I did consider other options and did sketch it up but this seemedto be the best looking (to me anyway)

I like the idea of carving or pyrography but my skills don't go that far yet.


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## richburrow (1 Mar 2009)

What a great looking clock :lol: 
Your routing set up is really nice!!!!!!


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## motownmartin (2 Mar 2009)

richburrow":2vqfo2iz said:


> What a great looking clock :lol:
> Your routing set up is really nice!!!!!!


Thanks Rich, it would have taken me a lot longer than 4 hours a clock if it weren't for the router table  Iplan to make afew more this week as well as finish these Two, I am also considering making some out of Black Walnut and Oak.


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## Ironballs (2 Mar 2009)

Nice design and great craftsmanship, I have a question about the aesthetics though. For me you have a conflict between the sharp geometrical shapes and then the rounding on the outside edge, they're at odds with each other. I would have left the edges crisp or perhaps added a chamfer, maybe even a form of bead on the face near the outer edge.

My opinion only and will look forward to seeing the finished article as sometimes a piece doesn't resolve itself until complete

Cheers

Damian


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## devonwoody (3 Mar 2009)

Just found this thread, that looks a nice project and clock designs can be ongoing.


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## motownmartin (3 Mar 2009)

Ironballs":1aq244l0 said:


> Nice design and great craftsmanship, I have a question about the aesthetics though. For me you have a conflict between the sharp geometrical shapes and then the rounding on the outside edge, they're at odds with each other. I would have left the edges crisp or perhaps added a chamfer, maybe even a form of bead on the face near the outer edge.
> 
> My opinion only and will look forward to seeing the finished article as sometimes a piece doesn't resolve itself until complete
> 
> ...


Hi Damian, opinions are good and different opinions are great, it gives us an idea of what folk like and don't like.
When I desiged the clock I sketched it a number of different styles and the one that was most pleasing to my eye was this one but that doesn't mean it is the design that everybody will like the best, if most forum members said the same as you I would have to seriously consider changing the design if I were going to sell them to Tom, Dick and Harry.

Thanks for the feedback though, thanks to everyone for their comments, its this forum and the feedback that keep me going forward.


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## MikeG. (3 Mar 2009)

I'm afraid I agree entirely with Damien.........which is why I haven't posted on this one before.

It is still going to be a lovely project, and I have a bare spot on a wall awaiting my variation on this theme.

Mike


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## Ironballs (4 Mar 2009)

Glad you've taken the comments as intended, did hesitate offering a criticism to someone who has made the fantastic box in your avatar.

Just been looking at the pics again and for me I think there are 2 things I might consider if I was to do my variation. The first would be to reduce the segments from 12 to 6 - though that then makes it less unusual; the second is to shave out a hollow on the outer edge so where the edges meet it comes to a point, a little like a spiders web.

Keep the pics coming


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## motownmartin (4 Mar 2009)

I hope you all post pics of your own versions of the dodecaclock, it would be good to see the differencies.


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## motownmartin (4 Mar 2009)

Here are the 2 completed clocked each one has the different type of numerals, hope ype like them.


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## devonwoody (4 Mar 2009)

I see you havent gone in for oak panelling then. 

Both are very nice.


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## motownmartin (4 Mar 2009)

devonwoody":vbw0pqbz said:


> I see you havent gone in for oak panelling then.
> 
> Both are very nice.


Thats in the sun lounge John, it was done before I got into proper woodwork :lol: its B&Q Banana wood :lol:


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## OPJ (4 Mar 2009)

Although I agree with some of the other comments and would've used a chamfer rather than a round-over, I think both clocks look very nice. I personally prefer the darker-looking letters with the shadow.


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## motownmartin (4 Mar 2009)

A few close up pics


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## wizer (4 Mar 2009)

Agree, the darker numerals a slightly better.

IMO I think the centre could have done with something interesting. Inlay maybe?

Not to take away the skill of such a complex task. Well Done.


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## motownmartin (4 Mar 2009)

OPJ":6vgzsf00 said:


> Although I agree with some of the other comments and would've used a chamfer rather than a round-over, I think both clocks look very nice. I personally prefer the darker-looking letters with the shadow.


Maybe but one important factor and that is the customer paid me £50 to have a roundover and the brighter numerals, if they wanted something else they would have got it, I think you have to be flexible, i'm going to make 3 more as I have some of the parts ready cut so I might do one with a chamfer.


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## Lord Nibbo (4 Mar 2009)

Excellent job done. =D> I think I'll bookmark this for future reference.


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## motownmartin (4 Mar 2009)

Lord Nibbo":nw51q9az said:


> Excellent job done. =D> I think I'll bookmark this for future reference.


Thanks LN,

One thing to look out for is getting the inside edges to line up, I was thinking that you need some kind of spring to apply even pressure because you don't have a lot of time as the glue starts to set, its either that or trim them with a very sharp chisel, if you have a look at the second close up pic you will see what I am on about.

Any other ideas anyone.


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## devonwoody (4 Mar 2009)

If gluing is a problem on future clocks I would knock up a former for inside and the outer edge screwed blocks.


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## motownmartin (4 Mar 2009)

devonwoody":2fua4ksm said:


> If gluing is a problem on future clocks I would knock up a former for inside and the outer edge screwed blocks.


It would have to be very precise else the joints would not be able to compress


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## Ironballs (4 Mar 2009)

In that case could you not design the former so it worked like the brake shoe in drum brakes? ie it has two halves that have an alterable diameter


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## Pete Robinson (5 Mar 2009)

45 degree mitres are bad enough but your 22.5's are superb.....well done martin!!!!


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## Pete Robinson (5 Mar 2009)

Sorry, your 15's are even better!!!!


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## motownmartin (5 Mar 2009)

Thanks Pete, it certainly tested my skills, I still found it difficult to get a decent finish though, thats one area where I need to improve, the hardest part to finish was the clock face :?


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## motownmartin (30 Mar 2009)

I am doing some variations of this clock using Black Walnut & Oak, I also want to do away with using the vinyl numerals as they tend to move and and cme adrift when transported, I'm not sure with what I have come up with so far and would welcome your help and comments, I want to keep it fairly simple and quick to manufacture.


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## devonwoody (31 Mar 2009)

Something different?

How about a numerical digital clock (no hands needed) then the face plate design can go anywhere!

Mind you your latest above looks nice.


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## wizer (31 Mar 2009)

Martin I do like this idea. Most people can tell the time with just a fleeting glance at a clock (I can't). So numerals are not really nescesary. You could use an alternative material for the numerals, such as mirror glass, ceramic, corian, brass, chrome, silver.

The world is your lobster


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