# Osmo Polyx Oil vs. Finishing Oil



## The_Stig (13 May 2009)

This is probably going to sound like a funny request but I've been running a little experiment and I can't seem to see the difference between Osmo Polyx Oil (satin) and Liberon finishing oil.

It might be that my sample is too small or it could be the light but I was wondering if anyone has pictures of the two different finishes in use so that I get a good comparison.


----------



## OPJ (13 May 2009)

Don't have any photos to share but Osmo Polyx is a _hardwax oil_ and, erm, well, it should be different (more hard-wearing) than finishing oil. 

Is this for "that oak project" you were looking to build a while back? :wink:


----------



## The_Stig (13 May 2009)

Thats the badger


----------



## woodbloke (13 May 2009)

Osmo is actually a floor finishing product so it's very hard wearing...I've been using it for a couple of years now and I'm still only half way through my first tin...I like it, it's great stuff :wink: - Rob


----------



## Ironballs (13 May 2009)

Colour wise I found there was very little difference between Osmo and high quality danish oil, I tried it on maple and the Osmo was a teensy bit lighter, but it also required only 2 coats, whereas with danish I would have a 3 minimum


----------



## woodbloke (13 May 2009)

Ironballs":3tl0o5db said:


> Colour wise I found there was very little difference between Osmo and high quality danish oil, I tried it on maple and the Osmo was a teensy bit lighter, but it also required only 2 coats, whereas with danish I would have a 3 minimum


Slight correction Damian...two * very thin* coats. Gloop it on like varnish and you're in big trouble - Rob


----------



## Ironballs (13 May 2009)

True, they do have to be thin, a bit like an acrylic brush on varnish I have


----------



## Jake (13 May 2009)

PolyX's virtues do not include colourlessness or neutrality, any more so than any other oil finish. It pops grain nicely much like other any other finish, but it has a browny-orange cast. That can of course be a good thing, depending on the timber.

If you spread it thin, you reduce that, but it's still there - but you have less of an idea/impression of its effect.


----------



## Ironballs (13 May 2009)

Somewhere in the garage I have a piece of maple with unfinished, danish oil and osmo on it in stripes. If desired I can get a picture and put it on.

In fact must get a few pics sorted out for the nascent wood finish reference gallery


----------



## Mike-W (14 May 2009)

3 years ago I did a colour fastness test with a piece of Ash that has been in my NW facing window all that time, the board was divided into four and the top half of each test area was covered with cardboard to prevent the treated area from getting light exposure.

The purpose of the test was to establish if there was a way of preventing Ash yellowing to end up looking a bit like Pine.

The finishes were 
1) gloss Acrylic varnish. 
2a) 1 coat of Osmo White Primer. 2b) 2 coats Osmo White Primer; both were followed by one top coat of Clear Satin Polyx oil. 
3) 2 coats of Clear Satin Polyx Oil.
4) 2 coats Liberon Finishing oil.

In answer to your original question the Liberon (unwaxed) finish after 3 years is very slightly more matt than the satin Polyx oil. I guess if I 'fed' the wood with furniture wax it would add a lovely sheen to the Liberon finish.

The yellowing between the clear Polyx oil & Finishing oil is about the same.
The area painted with Acrylic varnish has yellowed less so than the above two.
The Osmo White primer has gone someway to retaining the original light appearance of the Ash, however its looks as if the wood beneath the white primer has still yellowed somewhat.

I think the top half of the board (covered area) may also slightly have changed colour after three years, however preventing the area from getting full exposure to light has delayed the yellowing effect, this is most noticeable in the case of the wood that was painted with Osmo White primer.

No furniture wax was applied to the sample so the finish is in its 'raw state' (i'm not sure if applying wax to Polyx is recomended).


I could have a go at putting a picture up latter but some of the differences are quite subtle so it may be difficult see except by physically examining the test piece.


----------

