# Paint



## GrahamIreland (2 Jan 2017)

Been scratching my head lately trying to figure out what I can do regards painting metal products, like benches tables etc.

I have been using aerosol cans on my work so far.
Id roughly sand first, then etch prime spray, then colour.
But slightest bump will knock off paint.

Powder coating and sand blasting would add €100 to each of my products.
I don't see a solution.

Maybe just skip cop lours and do plain blackened steel...

Graham


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## n0legs (2 Jan 2017)

GrahamIreland":3n093ejw said:


> But slightest bump will knock off *paint*
> 
> 
> Graham




Is that down to the primer coat or down to the metal?


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## TFrench (3 Jan 2017)

The best rattle can stuff I found was a plastikote one:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/plasti-kote-s ... 00ml/76176
It's expensive but it lasted well - I used it on suspension components on a mini I restored. Failing that, you can achieve very good results with a decent quality brush and a slightly thinned paint. I've always used spencer coatings paint for that sort of thing as that's what our local "proper" ironmongers sells. I've also just used sparex tractor paint to very good effect on the lathe I'm restoring if you need different colours cheaply.


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## Phil Pascoe (3 Jan 2017)

I heard some while ago two maintenance men in the local college telling someone that they had stuff there that was done fifteen years before with Blackfriars QD90 that was still good, and that they wouldn't touch Hammerite with a barge pole.


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## GrahamIreland (3 Jan 2017)

n0legs":1nlhk0qi said:


> GrahamIreland":1nlhk0qi said:
> 
> 
> > But slightest bump will knock off *paint*
> ...





I'm not sure to be honest. Maybe if I had sandblasted down to bare metal I would get a better stick, but its a lot of effort for colouring metal. Im after a good finish too.
Just thought others would have experience in this.


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## ColeyS1 (3 Jan 2017)

Daft question but I take it you're wiping down with white spirit and paper towels first- till they go clean ? I think any finish that has a certain amount of thickness will chip, if bashed about.
Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


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## RobinBHM (3 Jan 2017)

It depends on whether the issue is adhesion, fil thickness film hardness, or a mixture of all.

You ideally need a suitable primer and then a 2 -pack top coat either AC or PU although both of these have nasties so would need spraygun, spraybooth and correct PPE.

I actually use a waterbased paint (625) from Remmers which is quite hard when cured. I use it on aluminium glazing bars. Base coat is their all primer. Maybe a similar product is available near you. 

Even a pre cat laquer which is a single pack solvent based product would achieve a harder coating than aerosol spray cans which can only achieve a thin film coating as the material is very low viscocity, so you would probably achieve much better results with a spraygun and perhaps a turbine spraygun, I believe the Earlex is a good introduction turbine which may be worth considering.


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## novocaine (3 Jan 2017)

rustoleum or por15 depending on the preparation of the base metal and the colour required. por15 is especially good on rusty old tat. neither are overly cheap though.


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## Bm101 (3 Jan 2017)

Out of interest I've seen craftmaster paints recommended in several places but never used it. Does anyone have any experience using it? I'm guessing if it's tough enough for trains it's tough enough for most stuff. 
http://www.craftmasterpaints.co.uk/

There's a few tips for any beginners (like me!) here that might help.
http://www.craftmasterpaints.co.uk/about/hints-tips/


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## Phil Pascoe (3 Jan 2017)

http://tools-paint.com/tekaloid-t318-co ... 6696-p.asp
Always had a good reputation. Mixed colours, I see ... :idea:


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## wallace (3 Jan 2017)

Have a trip to a motor factors that mix paint. I use a zinc primer followed by machinery enamel that can be sprayed or hand painted. It can be mixed to any colour. I have used coach paint in the past which doesn't chip when knocked. The enamel is a bit brittle. You could also go down the DTM direct to metal route.


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## wallace (4 Jan 2017)

I came across this guy who seems to know his stuff 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7onZGqrYyY


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## GrahamIreland (20 Jan 2017)

wallace":3uatwxs7 said:


> I came across this guy who seems to know his stuff
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7onZGqrYyY





He's good alright.
I took my stuff to a car guy and he did a wet primer and colour spray job, then lacquer.
Which seems very strong.

Expensive, though.


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