# Router Table Sled Advice



## PeteG (4 Aug 2014)

Decided to make my first jig for the router table today, so before I start gluing/screwing everything together thought I'd check I'm on the right tracks ?  
The base is 19 x 400 x 230 mm MDF, and I have two toggle clamps if you reckon it's needs both? 
As always, any advice would be greatly appreciated


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## Glynne (4 Aug 2014)

Hi Pete, nice looking jig.
The only thought I have is that you have nothing to prevent breakout when routing something across the grain.
I think it may be on Ron's Tip's on Wealden Tools site but he has a push block with a renewable sacrificial fence for that very purpose. Basically he has a push block (minus the toggle clamp) which is at exactly right angles to the fence but has a sacrificial piece at the front which you can renew as it gets worn. If you have any problems finding it, give me a shout and I'll post a picture of my copy.


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## Peter Sefton (4 Aug 2014)

I would say if using MFD then bolt the toggle cramps rather than just screwing as the MDF will most likely de laminate in time.
If al else fails check us out for Woodpecker sleds.
Cheers Peter


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## PeteG (4 Aug 2014)

Glynne":ky20nzpp said:


> Hi Pete, nice looking jig.
> The only thought I have is that you have nothing to prevent breakout when routing something across the grain.
> I think it may be on Ron's Tip's on Wealden Tools site but he has a push block with a renewable sacrificial fence for that very purpose. Basically he has a push block (minus the toggle clamp) which is at exactly right angles to the fence but has a sacrificial piece at the front which you can renew as it gets worn. If you have any problems finding it, give me a shout and I'll post a picture of my copy.



Thanks Glynne, is it this one http://www.wealdentool.eu/q_tips/quick_tip_40.html ?



Peter Sefton":ky20nzpp said:


> I would say if using MFD then bolt the toggle cramps rather than just screwing as the MDF will most likely de laminate in time.
> If al else fails check us out for Woodpecker sleds.
> Cheers Peter



Appreciate the advice Peter, as I would have used screws, and that Woodpecker looks very impressive!

I forgot to mention it before, I made a runner out if oak which can be seen in the images, wasn't sure if the sled ran on this or against the fence.


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## Glynne (5 Aug 2014)

That's the one Pete.
As you aren't using the mitre track, you don't have to worry about it being parallel to the fence. You could use a toggle clamp I suppose but if I have any concerns about the work piece lifting, I just use a feather board.
I do have a sled for small work pieces. I'll take a picture later and post.


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## Glynne (5 Aug 2014)

Pete, some photos as promised.
My version of Ron Fox's push block 




Another of Ron's, not a very good picture as it is for holding pieces vertically when routing so the handle is facing outwards in use



My adjustable jig for holding small pieces 



and finally a very useful push stick with a "V" shaped bottom and push block so as you can latch on to the top corner edge when routing 


The magnet is simply for hanging on my bandsaw which is next to the router table.


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## PeteG (5 Aug 2014)

Glynne, you're a star, really appreciate the images and the help. I could have done with the first two jigs today [Post going up soon using a corner lock cutter], even thought of buying a plane so I can use the handle as a template, the one in my images I knocked up using the belt/disc sander. I'll certainly be making the second one up tomorrow and hopefully the Ron Fox push block, I have a tongue and groove set which I bought last year but
haven't used yet. Hope these will do the job!


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## Glynne (5 Aug 2014)

Glad they were of use. Coincidentally I finished a box on Sunday using a corner lock router bit and the 2 jigs you mentioned. I posted this and using a corner lock bit so a search for my posts will throw them up if you're interested.
I'm sure I have a spare copied "plane" handle in MDF for use in jigs so if you want to PM me your address I'll post it on and you can use it as a template. It comes from a Bailey plane so fairly standard.


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## ola c (7 Aug 2014)

Looks good, but I have swiched from toggle clamps to festool clamps on almost all my jigs, due to 3 reasons.

1. Toggle clamp have a distance from the clamping location to the fastening location, resulting in a torque/bend motion on the clamp base. Too much toggle clamp pressure and the jig will warp, even if 19mm mdf. Festool clamps have the downward pressure right above the t-slot for the clamp meaning no torque on the camp.

2. So much quicker to adjust festool clamps to different stock thicknesses.

3. The festool ones doesn't need to be screwed down- easy to move between jigs.

To make interface for the festool, a keyhole router bit is all that's needed.

Edit. If the t-track interface goes through entire board thickness you don'even need a keyhole cutter.


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## ola c (7 Aug 2014)

Maybe a pic would help explaining previous post. Here implemented on my crosscut sled.


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## Eric The Viking (16 Aug 2014)

ola c":20bku8af said:


> Maybe a pic would help explaining previous post. Here implemented on my crosscut sled.


That looks very neat, and I think I have a pair of those. Are they the ones that work with the TS55 rails too?
If so they are very quick to use, and they do clamp straight, which I think is important..

Neat idea.


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## ola c (16 Aug 2014)

Thanks Eric. Yes, same as works with ts55 rails. There are quick clamp version as well but they cost a bit.

The festool clamps also have perfect match with incra t-tracks.

I'm not a festool representative, but these clamps have changed (at least my) jig building completely so they are worth favouring.


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## Eric The Viking (16 Aug 2014)

I like mine. 

I bought them for use with the Makita SP6000 K rail saw, asthey were cheaper than the same thing ffrom the Makita range. 

Yours is a good way to do a sled, I think.


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## Steve Maskery (27 Aug 2014)

For my 2p I'd recommend using good quality birch ply rather than MDF. Whatever clamp you use, and all those are good options, it is quite possible for the clamping force to distort the base rather than hold the workpiece secure. The result is that the workpiece can move whilst you are routing, which may or may not matter, depending on what you are doing. 

DAMHIKT.

S


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## Glynne (27 Aug 2014)

I know you said DAMHIKT but as a general rule is ply less prone to distortion under tension than MDF?


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## Steve Maskery (27 Aug 2014)

Yes. Millimetre for millimetre, good birch ply is much stiffer.


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