# router table top



## RussianRouter (30 Jun 2010)

Just waiting for the plate to be fitted and then I'll tackle the guide fence.

This is the workpiece clamp in place...





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## aesmith (8 Jul 2010)

What are you using for the table top? Is that a few layers of MDF glued together, or something more high-tech?


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## Chems (8 Jul 2010)

When you say workpiece clamp, do you mean your going to trap the work between that and the fence?


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## RussianRouter (8 Jul 2010)

aesmith":twiiov48 said:


> What are you using for the table top? Is that a few layers of MDF glued together, or something more high-tech?



25mm MDF.


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## RussianRouter (8 Jul 2010)

Chems":nbkxbes1 said:


> When you say workpiece clamp, do you mean your going to trap the work between that and the fence?



That is the general idea,don't look suprised as we offer the clamp up to the workpiece at a feathers touch and then the workpiece just follows the guidefence and clamp channel with the aid of a piece of wood to push it through.


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## Chems (8 Jul 2010)

To mirror your abruptness, as you won't find anything on the market similar that should tell you its a bad idea. And for someone who claims to be a router expert you should know that you shouldn't directly trap against the cutter in table mode. But I don't care, their your eyes and hands.


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## RussianRouter (8 Jul 2010)

Chems":193jpx9e said:


> To mirror your abruptness, as you won't find anything on the market similar that should tell you its a bad idea. And for someone who claims to be a router expert you should know that you shouldn't directly trap against the cutter in table mode. But I don't care, their your eyes and hands.



When I've completed the table I'll knock up a short vid of it in action.

You do not trap the workpiece hard against the cutter with the clamp,it is no difference than using hand guided ploughs to push the piece throught the infeed or using featherboards.

It worked in my first router table and the only difference is the T-track slot was routed actually in the table rather than use the ally T track. 

p.s I use goggles for my eyes on any machine and this method I use one hand and thats to push the workpiece through the infeed with a stick.


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## wizer (8 Jul 2010)

George. Speaking as someone who very nearly lost a finger to a router table, I think you really need to apply some common sense to this. Please consider using a proper feather board and not a full length one either. Whether or not the 'clamp' is hard up against the piece or not makes no odds. I know you say you have lots of experience, but I think you've missed the safety flaw with this method.


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## OPJ (9 Jul 2010)

I also agree that a featherboard would be a better option - it applies pressure against the fence while also greatly reducing the risk kickback. A single strip of wood may not be the best option although, my horizontal featherboard spans the full length of my table and it doesn't give me any trouble. Vertically, I have one smaller featherboard either side of the bit though, that's got more to do with saving them from destruction! 

If you don't have sufficient pressure close to the cutter then, your results are going to become variable.

One alternative to featherboards is to have a wider width of timber (or MDF) and cut two parallel slots - one, say, 25mm down from the front edge, on the right-hand side. The other, 25mm up from the back edge, left-hand side. Both slots stop about halfway along. Hope that makes sense. If not, I could do a quick sketch...


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## barkwindjammer (9 Jul 2010)

Yes, do a quick sketch


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## MickCheese (10 Jul 2010)

I don't quite understand what is being proposed here, will it be an alleyway for the work to be trapped in as it passes the cutter?

I have used routers for many years and nearly got caught out in the week.

I was fitting a Record vice and needed to route out a piece of wood to fit the outer jaw covering. It was quite large at about 250mm X 150mm X 40mm. I set the fence and two stops either side so I could just keep cutting until I had the necessary hollow to fit over the jaw. I was using a 12mm bit raised about 10mm out of the table for the first cut. I offered up the wood and it was immediately snatched from my hand.

Gave me a start and fortunately that was all as the cutter remained within the hollow and my fingers were a long way away.

I then used two paddles and some body weight and all was well.

Just a reminder how powerful a 2000w router is!

Mick


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## Eric The Viking (10 Jul 2010)

MickCheese":39wk6uul said:


> Just a reminder how powerful a 2000w router is!



Too right! I've been doing some deep rebates with the T11 recently (in the table), and planing with an 80mm worktop cutter. It's a bit scary how the note of the motor doesn't change - I used to listen to tell if I was applying enough pressure, but with the T11 I have to be overall more cautions now, and ensure a firm grip too. It wouldn't take prisoners, I fear.

Gloves with grippy palms help, I find, but they can lull you into a sense of impregnability. I keep reminding myself how easy it is to cut cotton...


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## OPJ (10 Jul 2010)

barkwindjammer":1c3r21ix said:


> Yes, do a quick sketch



Okay. This should be pretty self-explanatory; the piece of wood is fixed to a sheet of MDF (12mm?) so that you can clamp or secure it to your table top.






The timber is set proud of the base slightly, so that it actually contacts the timber being fed through (sorry, you'll have to imagine the router table and fence )

This is an idea I first saw used on the spindle moulder at college. It works well and is also a heck of a lot quicker than cutting thousands of finger slots! :wink:


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## barkwindjammer (10 Jul 2010)

And do those kerf cuts allow the piece to yield slightly to stop a bind from happening?


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## srp (14 Jul 2010)

Robert Ingham uses them a lot for a variety of jigs - there are several photos in his book. His have quite a few slots which extend around 3/4 of the way across. I make them up as I need them from whatever is to hand, but 6 or 10mm ply works well. Either clamp them to the table or cut a couple of slots and screw down.
Like a home-made feather board, the pressure varies according to the length and number of slots and the thickness of the material, as well as how much 'pre=load' you apply when clamping in position.


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