# WIP: Dovetailed Stationary Box (Completed)



## joiner_sim (14 May 2011)

_The following work-in-progress can be also followed on my website at http://www.JoinerSim.vze.com where it will be updated first and then on here shortly after._

Firstly, may I apoligise for the poor photo quality of some of the images that are going to appear. This is due to the camera phone being easier to "snap" the picture when needed. However, I will make an effort to take pictures with a decent digital camera when I have time to fetch it and when the item is finished, to show it in detail.

The first thing I had to do was find out what hardware I was going to use, as this would determine the design of the box and dimensions of the timber. I decided upon ordering pre-machined 120x17mm North American White Oak. This is a little bit of forward planning for the future, as the actual sides of this box I am making are only going to be 57mm high. But the 120mm width allows me to make a variety of boxes in the future, as there will be some timber spare. The picture below shows my plan that I've drew up. The overall dimension is to be 234x84mm.







The lid will not be glued in and cut out later. I will make the box without the lid and cut a piece of timber to suit the box and hinge. However, the base has caused me to have to think quite a bit! I have decided it will be rebated in and the dovetailed joint will stop just at the base and will be mitred so the rebates are hidden. To show what I mean and to also help myself understand what I will be trying to achieve I have drawn the detail in the next picture.






With the design process dealt with, now's the time to get down to business and start making it happen! So, today I have been down to my home workshop space and unpackaged the timber that arrived earlier in the week. Following advice from a video on Get Woodworking, I have tried to keep the box sides all together so that the grain will sort of match up. This is fine for one side and one back, also for one side and one front, however it will not match all the way around as the 120mm timber is going to be ripped down the middle and each piece will give me my 57mm high sides. In the next photo you will see how far I have got now, which is to the point of marking the length of the front, back, left & right sides, ready for cutting.






And I'm sorry to say, but have to.... thats as far as I've got now. The reason being that I'll cut the timber at work this week on the table saw rather than do it by hand at home, also I need to rebate the pieces for that base and other than going out and buying a new router cutter for it, it will be much easier, cleaner and safer to do the rebates on the spindle moulder also at work. I will try and remember to photograph the ripping, crosscutting and rebating in progress if I have time, but will be limited as this will have to be done on my break times! Once the timber has been cut and rebated, I guess the dovetails will be next on the to-do list. So please keep watching and your comments/ advice are as always on a work-in-progress, very welcome.


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## joiner_sim (16 May 2011)

Machining the sides 

Today, I have ripped my timber sides to 57mm on the table saw and cleaned up the sawn edge simply with a bit of sandpaper. For those that are interested it is an Altendorf panel saw from the 1980's, with a custom made dust extracted crown guard. This is the machine that I find myself using for at least half of every working day, cutting ply, plastic, polystrene, formica and what ever else gets thrown at me!






Once ripping the timber in half, I went over to the spindle moulder (sorry no pics, I forgot!) and rebated the sides to accomodate the 17mm base. The main reason the base is so thick is because to plane some of my timber down thru the thicknesser would possibly mean wasting more than I'd need to, to allow it to machine smoothly, so I decided to keep it all the same thickness. Then I cut the timber to length, leaving 2mm extra to clean up the joints properly once it has been assembled. You can see below how far I've got now with the timber and hopefully thats all the machining of the sides that will be required! (Unless, I mess up on the joints!- Really hope I don't though)






It will probably be a while now til I can post anymore pictures as the dovetail cutting will have to happen on one of the weekends at home. But I will for sure post updates when I can 

Thanks for reading so far.


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## woodbloke (16 May 2011)

I think I'm chipping in here far too late, but this (in my view anyway) isn't the way to go about a small box. If the sides are 57mm high you've got just enough space to get one complete dovetail in the box and one in the lid, which should be sawn off through an extra wide pin with a thin bladed handsaw or alternatively, a band saw. The base far too thick at 17mm...you could get away with some 4mm veneered ply or mdf easily and just rebate it in once the box has been made...use a bearing guided rebate cutter in a router. The top could be done in the same way and if you wanted to do a better job, make it as a thin panel. The small jewellery box I made shown in the pic below:






shows some of the features that I mentioned. The mistake that a lot of folk make is in thinking that because it's just a _'small box'_ there's not much work in it when very often, the reverse is true. Making a piece like this is very much about *really* thinking your way through it before even laying hands on timber and I fear that you've made the same mistake. Sorry for the adverse critique, but personally I'd kick this one into touch and start again. I appreciate that your home 'shop may be limited, but this is a little job that's crying out for a sensitive hand tool approach where the big machines ought to just be used for stock preparation...it's then onto the bench for the good stuff :wink: - Rob


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## joiner_sim (17 May 2011)

Thanks for your thoughts, although I am still going to continue with the direction I'm going in. The lid is going to be completely seperate from the box sides, so getting a dovetail in there isnt a worry. I can udnerstand you on the base being so thick, as I had thought about that also. However, the only sheet material I have available is cheap nasty structural plywood really. To thickness some of my oak down would create a lot of waste in my opinion, as my experience with thicknessers (industrial size anyway) you need your timber to be at least a minimum of 500mm long to get it to run smoothly thru.


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## rileytoolworks (17 May 2011)

Simon, why not thickness the base by hand? A little late now, I know, but sometimes we all miss the obvious solution.
Keep the pics coming.

Adam.


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## joiner_sim (18 May 2011)

Adam, I considered ripping a bit of the timber down on the saw and finishing off either on the surfacer or as you've said with a a hand plane. No reason for deciding against it, just didnt... It only needs to hold a few pens and pencils, maybe a 15cm ruler, thats about it.... just a desk top box really thats going to be a nice memento of graduating from university.


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## joiner_sim (2 Jun 2011)

Cutting the dovetails

It's been a lovely sunny day and so I decided to work outdoors, rather than inside a small corner of the shed/ garage! I've marked out the joints and clearly labelled the area to be cut out.... the only problem I had to begin with was I marked the same area to be cut out on both parts of the joints.... and so..... that lead to a waste of time! But eh.... never mind, thats only one for the offcuts bin! I will have to rip a little bit more timber down at work and spindle mould/ router the rebate out, whichevers quickest..! I finished off the front, back and one side joints though. 

Here's my first photo of the joint after being cut with an irwin tennon saw and eclipse coping saw. As you can see the top and bottom part of the joint is mitred, and only the middle is dovetailed, which is what caused the initial confusion in me cutting out the wrong part! (Knew i should've done it in softwood first!)






After cutting the other part of the joint and trimming the joint to fit, parring slowly away with a chisel against a piece of ply, to stop breakout... here's what I ended up with.






All that's left to do with this joint is trim it flush with the sides once I get to the glue-up stage, which needs to be soon.... my deadline is now set for end of June!

I have completed three of the sides now, just got to wait til I go back to work Monday (we are on a week's holiday) so I can use the table saw to neatly cut my replacement piece. I did consider handsaw and rebate plane..... however I've opted for the easy way out! And yes, I have got a router at home, however they make too much mess, so I'd much rather make the mess at work than home.

As always guys, any comments or questions are always welcome. Thanks for reading so far.


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## richburrow (3 Jun 2011)

Hello Simon, 
Good to see that you are still at it, how is the job going?
Keep the pictures coming everyone loves WIP  
Rich


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## joiner_sim (4 Jun 2011)

Hi Rich,
Yep, I'm still on the slippery slope! I try and do some skilled bench work at home when I can. 

The job.... well I'm not sure if you know but I lost my job within the furniture company (Nov 10) and they ended up in liquidation(dec 10). Found another job the same week and I'm still at it. I'm now working primarily as a woodworking machinist and have slipped into the company pretty well, sometimes they call upon my carpentry & joinery skills to do more skilled work. 

It's been quite a learning curve since I left my first job in Feb 2010. I've learn't that at the end of the day a job is a job and it is there to provide a means of being able to live and pay for the luxuries in life. I'm not doing what I ever intended to do, I always wanted to continue working on the bench making high quality items. However, I am earning more money now than I ever have and I'm in a company where there will be plenty of opportunities for progression within their business (something those small furniture/joinery firms are unwilling to offer). And the company really do look after their staff, with bonuses, pay rises, all-expenses paid xmas parties, health and safety and much more!


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## richburrow (5 Jun 2011)

Sounds like you have fallen one your feet, keep it up


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## joiner_sim (14 Jun 2011)

Cutting Dovetails (Part 2)

Finally, I've managed to spare a bit of time and get back to this! The spindle moulder was setup for a big job, so ended up having to use a router and fence with a straight cutter to do the rebate. With that done, I marked out the joint again and cut it out correctly this time!! Then I spent a bit of time trimming the joints (parring away with the chisel) to get the mitres a bit better than they all were originally, they are now to an acceptable standard and my photo may not show it too well but under clamping pressure the joints pull up really well. I am really happy with the progress so far and I'm now ready to cut a base out and fit it. The next step will be to clean up inside edges and glue up! 






Photo showing the overall box and joints.....






Photo showing the rebate for the base...






Above photo shows the front view of the box.

More to follow soon......


I have a question now...... As you can see I have left the joints long.... How's best to get them flush after gluing up? Handsaw? Plane? Sandpaper? Or something else?


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## richburrow (14 Jun 2011)

I would use the router with one of these http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-flush-trim-router-cutters-bottom-bearing-prod803281/
I am not saying this is the best make of cutter but that style.
Also where the bearing is going to run against the box I would put a strip of masking tape. Sometimes if you dont the bearing marks the timber.
If this was my box I would use the router table not freehand.
Just my opinion, hope it helps
Rich


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## adidat (14 Jun 2011)

i tend to pare the extra wood off with a flat and very sharp chisel, just always keep the hands behind the blade very easy to forget.

looking good so far,

adidat


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## joiner_sim (15 Jun 2011)

Thanks for the advice guys....

Rich, however, as you can tell from my "home" pictures I haven't got a workshop and certainly not a router table!  I do have a router and a flush trimming cutter though.... lol! But don't think I'd like to try using it freehand in this application also, would have problems with nothing flat to work off, on the router table I'd be able to do a false bed out of ply so wouldn't have that problem.

Adidat, parring the wood off with a chisel? That doesn't sound like something I'd really want to do, I don't think I'd have the desired level of control...

Anymore ideas? I am thinking block plane to remove the bulk of overhang and sandpaper to finish off flush.


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## adidat (15 Jun 2011)

well if your chisel is flat enough its the perfect way to do it, as-long as your paring on the box side towards to the outcrop it helps if you have a large chisel (1 3/4" 2" etc). just be careful when you are getting near the edge to avoid breakout. its a slower way but gives good results you can use a low angle plane, but its vital is very sharp. 

i did these dovetails with the above mentioned technique, any more questions ask away.

adidat


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## joiner_sim (15 Jun 2011)

Sorry for being stupid here, but whats the "outcrop"? Towards to outside? If so presumably using a board underneath to stop breakout... I have got decent chisels (hoping to be given a 1/4" & 1" as birthday presents next month to re-complete my set that had been stolen).... and can sharpen up if needs be pretty quickly using my diamond stone.


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## Mattty (15 Jun 2011)

adidat":1r469hdh said:


> well if your chisel is flat enough its the perfect way to do it, as-long as your paring on the box side towards to the outcrop it helps if you have a large chisel (1 3/4" 2" etc). just be careful when you are getting near the edge to avoid breakout. its a slower way but gives good results you can use a low angle plane, but its vital is very sharp.
> 
> i did these dovetails with the above mentioned technique, any more questions ask away.
> 
> adidat



That is a lovely box.


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## adidat (15 Jun 2011)

kinda hard to explain, from the picture above imagine the hinges weren't there and i was trying to remove the cherry pins that where protruding (what i meant by outcrop) so i would slide my chisel on the maple surface using it as a reference guide and and just keep slicing away wiggle the chisel left and right. when your near the edge try and come round and cut the the edges going in. that should prevent breakout.

mattty: thank you very much i was quite please with the 86% i got for it.

adidat


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## joiner_sim (16 Jun 2011)

Thanks for explaining.... I think I'll try and block plane my overhanging joints though.....


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## joiner_sim (16 Jun 2011)

The Glue-Up

Earlier on, I cut out the base on the table saw and fitted it dry into the rebates.

Before gluing up I double checked that I was happy with all the joints, dry clamping up first. Being happy with all the joints, I took the box apart and sanded up all the inside faces. Using only a sanding block and going with the grain I used 100 & 150 grits to achieve a nice smooth finish as it would be hard to do this once the box is glued up.

Using some evo-stick exterior glue (the reason for exterior glue is I think its stronger than interior) I glued up all the dovetails and squirted a bead of glue all the way around the rebate for the base also. You can see the box glued and clamped up for the night..... Just hope it all looks okay once its all cleaned up.... which will probably be on the weekend now.






Thanks for reading up on my project so far! As always..... an comments and questions are always welcome!


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## joiner_sim (18 Jun 2011)

I'm slowly working my way into the shed of the house I'm currently living in..... (It's not my house!) So I'm glad to say I do now have a covered sorta workshop. No electric, but thats okay as I dont have any room for much more than my hand tools anyway! Only problem will be the winter with the dark days and early dusks.... I'll worry about that if I really have to! 

Anyway, just a quick text update..... Went down to the shed and unclamped the box. Had a quick inspection and everything look alright to continue working away on it. Following my question on how to trim my tennons flush I can see why a block plane is no good now! Nothing to run on and its just too big to trim such a small joint. So, then I thought I'd have a go parring away with a chisel..... Maybe I should have sharpened it up and might have got better results.... Nothing went wrong though, just didn't feel right for me. So in my good old-fashioned ways which go back to my first work place (2003) :lol: I got my tennon saw and very carefully trimmed the joint closer to the box sides, and then finished off rubbing down with a 60grit sanding block. I got all the joints nice and flush with 60grit. And I'm going to admit now that some of the joints have very slight gaps, so I used my sanding dust and wood glue to mix up some "special filler" :mrgreen: and just filled in some of the slight gaps that were there. It will now go off overnight, and hopefully tomorrow I'll find the time to sand up with 100 & 150grits and all the joints will look fantastic.... I hopes! #-o 

Pictures to come once I am at the sanding point...


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## joiner_sim (19 Jun 2011)

Cleaning Up

Right, well after the glue had well and truly set about 2 days later! I tried various techniques to get my dovetails flush, first I tried with a block plane which ended very shortly! Secondly tried parring away with a chisel.... And finally, just did it the way I would have done if I was making a door and wanted to get the tennons & wedges flush with the stile, and that is to saw flushish and then sand away. This worked pretty well, although the sanding flush bit took a bit of work using only a block with sandpaper on. I did use 60grit though, which helped. Once I'd got the joints flush i gave the whole box a quick 60 grit sand and use the dust gathered to make a filler, mixing it up with some wood glue. I just rubbed this into any of my "slightly off" joints, I allowed 24 hours for it to dry properly.

Then I came back to it today, rubbed off all my filler using 60 grit again as it sets pretty hard! Then worked my way thru with 100 grit first and 150 grit to finish. The box is now ready for its lid to be cut to size on the table saw, so I'll try and get that done tomorrow at work and if I have the time I'll router the 45 degree chamfer onto the top that I want. For now though, here's my pictures of the finished bottom and sides, as you can see I tried to match the grain up on the sides. Once again I really must apoligise at this stage for the poor camera of my mobile phone and really wished I'd had the digital camera to hand as it would have done me more justice. I promise that once the project is done it will be photographed using my high quality digital camera.


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## joiner_sim (1 Jul 2011)

Right then, finally it's finished for its tight deadline of end of the month! And I must say I really quite pleased with the result, even though I'm having to make do with only a B&D work bench! 

I hope you've enjoyed looking at the work-in-progress pics and now here's the finale (in high quality resolution too! :lol: )
The hinges are from Screwfix and the catch was supplied by forum member gwaithcoed aka Alan, as a goodwill gesture so once again thankyou very much! The engraving was done by a local engraving company.

I'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking for me and please let me know what you think! :? 















EDIT: Engraving can be seen in Full-Size image here: http://www.freewebs.com/simonswoodwork/oakboxwips/DSCF0858.JPG















Thanks for looking at my WIP.

(Final pictures will not be up on my website for about 2 weeks yet as the recipient of this gift may look there and the suprise would be ruined)


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## ColeyS1 (2 Jul 2011)

Nice looking box there Simon :wink: Think i'd have been tempted to add a little colour to the lettering, just to make it a little more obvious. 
Are the silver screws in the hinges a temporary thing, or are you gonna replace with brass to match ? The mitred dovetail joints look very posh 8) 

Coley


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## joiner_sim (2 Jul 2011)

Thanks for the compliment on the dovetails, personally I wish I could have done them better tho!

The screws in the hinges are actually also brass, and when I looked at the photos I thought exactly the same as yourself, they really look silver. It must be due to two things. 1) The cameras flash and 2) The hinges and screws are from different suppliers and maybe they used different finishing techniques, but in the flesh they do look the same.

And finally, as for the lettering being coloured.... I really did want just the natural wood look finish. I was hoping the engraving would be a little bit deeper and finer myself, orignally asking for it to be done in italics, but the engraver said with the material being wood it may break out or something....? I just took his word for it. If you look at the engraving in the photo above, in its full-size image here: http://www.freewebs.com/simonswoodwork/oakboxwips/DSCF0858.JPG you will see it does look a bit more obvious.


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## Anonymous (2 Jul 2011)

sorry but i think it looks s hit


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## joiner_sim (2 Jul 2011)

mike71":115rdzsl said:


> sorry but i think it looks s***



I am not one bit suprised to get a message like that from you. I have seen you around on this forum giving out your opinions where they are unwanted. Do not get me wrong I do not mind criticism, however what I do mind is when somebody like you who has time and time again given out this attitude of "I'll say what I want and not back it up" give the one sentence comment on something that I have actually worked hard on. It may not be perfect, I know but was there any need for the profanity? And surely if it is rubbish, you should say why you think it is and what YOU would have done different!

I do not know who you are, what your background is or to be quite honest what you are doing on a forum like this with that sort of attitude. But if you wish to participate in one of my topics again you want to be more polite and give your opinions more accuratley.

____________________________________________________

Just a note to everyone, not because of what this silly person has posted, but because of the general lack of interest in this work-in-progress and the time and effort it does take to upload and sort thru photos. In future I will not be posting WIPs to this forum they will only appear on my website and I'll only post the final pictures on here, wether Mike71 or any other silly person likes it or not.

_____________________________

BTW mike your post has been reported for profanity =D> so well done you!


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## woodbloke (2 Jul 2011)

joiner_sim":2zhcnetj said:


> mike71":2zhcnetj said:
> 
> 
> > sorry but i think it looks s***
> ...


I agree completely and utterly with Simon's post...there was absolutely no call for the egit in question to make the comment as he (or maybe she) did. I welcome comments on all the work I show on this forum, but I insist they must be backed up with justification if there are any points that are open to 'discussion'. There are issues with this piece of work that I would question, but I hope I'd never be so uncouth as to describe as it has been. 
For the individual in question to make such a comment is completely unnecessary and as such I feel that that person has no place on this forum - Rob


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## adidat (2 Jul 2011)

mike71":1xlvqdq2 said:


> sorry but i think it looks s hit



lol what a t ool

adidat


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## Noel (3 Jul 2011)

Mr 71, he of the reasoned and polite criticism, has gone the way of many Norwegian Blues, ceased to be, expired.
He had been warned before for a similar infraction.


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## richburrow (5 Jul 2011)

Don't stop posting your WIP simon, they are great. Its acts as a nice record for you as well. Apart from the ocassional fool most people want to help out and encourage. 
Rich


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## thecoder (5 Jul 2011)

mike71":nie8x0ei said:


> sorry but i think it looks s hit



Clown !.

Simon nice work mate keep em coming I like reading and learning from your stuff.

...ignore the lowlife save your energy for what your good at 

Dave


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## joiner_sim (9 Jul 2011)

Thanks for the positive comments, I will keep posting, but as already said... I think I'll keep the WIPs exclusive to my website in future.


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## superunknown (9 Jul 2011)

mike71":ji71q7ld said:


> sorry but i think it looks s hit


 :roll: 

Maybe we could see some of your work?


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## goldeneyedmonkey (9 Jul 2011)

mike71":3d57tey4 said:


> sorry but i think it looks s hit



what a complete silly person.


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## Russ (9 Jul 2011)

Like it!

Did you glue the dovetails?

Russ


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## joiner_sim (10 Jul 2011)

Russ":l118f60e said:


> Like it!
> 
> Did you glue the dovetails?
> 
> Russ



I wouldn't finish off a piece without gluing up the joints. Yes, woodworking joints should be strong enough alone without glue, however, I think glue makes sure an item is going to last as long as it is physically possible to do so.


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## Protoclown (10 Jul 2011)

That is beautiful little box. well done mate.


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## joiner_sim (13 Jul 2011)

Thanks mate!

I gave the gift to my fiancee yesterday after she'd graduated, and she was over the moon with it. Only criticism was "It smells of wood!"

I guess its the danish oil.... how long does it take for the smell to wear off?


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## Ironballs (13 Jul 2011)

Try and get it aired a bit Sim and leave the lid off otherwise oil can leave a smell for quite a while. Or put some pot pourri type stuff in it for a bit


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## Melinda_dd (15 Jul 2011)

As a fello B & D workmate wood worker I would like to congratulate you on your box. It's hard to make "Pretty" and "Quality" with the set up we have, but you seem to have done a grand job mate.


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## Dodge (15 Jul 2011)

Noel":ikeubox3 said:


> Mr 71, he of the reasoned and polite criticism, has gone the way of many Norwegian Blues, ceased to be, expired.
> He had been warned before for a similar infraction.



=D> =D> 

Joiner Sim - Just read through this and whatever you do don't be put off by comments such as that seen - I have real respect for you doing work like that on a workmate. It wasn't that many years ago (ok a fair few) but when I was doing my A levels my workshop consisted of a bench made from tea chests and yes I had a B&D workmate as my vice. With the exception of a corded drill it was all hand tools in those days.

What you learn now will stay with you forever - keep it up 

Rog


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## joiner_sim (17 Jul 2011)

Thanks guys, I have the B&D workmate, but also as I've said thru the WIP, have machines at work to help me if needed which is of great benifit!


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## clewlowm (20 Jul 2011)

well i like the idea of the box! i just think you could have perhaps thinned it down a bit? it does look heavy and cumbersome!
i also think that someone with as much skill as what you say you have? could have done a slightly higher standard of work. no malice intended simon.


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## joiner_sim (21 Jul 2011)

I don't mind that comment, but please tell me how could I have done a slightly higher standard of work? 

Do you mean just neater and tidier joints? If so, it's not very often now that I use my hand tools, let alone cut joints, so I am a little rusty these days! I'm working now mainly as a wood machinist so hardly get much practice anymore. On a positive note though, I am earning more doing something I'm not that chuffed about, than I ever was when I was on the bench with the tools! So it is swings and roundabouts! Take the good with the bad!


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## clewlowm (21 Jul 2011)

perhaps the lid could have been cut from the same piece ? i cannot comment on the joints as its not my thing! the box just seems clunky and not attractive to the eye,


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## joiner_sim (21 Jul 2011)

I know the lid probably should have been cut out of the box after glue-up and did consider this at the start of the project. However, not having a bandsaw available to me at the moment, I decided I didn't fancy doing it on a table saw. So that really is the reason why I went in that direction. I will try and make a box in the future and cut the lid off on table saw, see how that goes for me.

Also I would not have been able to chamfer the lid using the above suggested method as the end grain would REALLY have looked strange and as if it was a mistake.

I had to use 17mm timber, as the hardware I had available to me required fixing to the box, mainly the catch, and I could only find 15mm veneer pins to fix it with. If I could have sourced something smaller the timber would have been also thinner. Really I would have liked to have a maximum thickness of 13mm.


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## doctor Bob (22 Jul 2011)

clewlowm":1fhv5ynp said:


> well i like the idea of the box! i just think you could have perhaps thinned it down a bit? it does look heavy and cumbersome!
> i also think that someone with as much skill as what you say you have? could have done a slightly higher standard of work. no malice intended simon.



The "it looks dung" comment by whats-is-name was stupid and unnecessary, but I agree with Mike.
You seem to have been doing this for at least 2 or 3 years, 40 hours a week. It was a gift for your fiancée, surely you should have put more effort into getting it right, you even acknowledge it is not made as you wanted.
I think the excuse you only had 15mm pins is a poor one. You don't need a bandsaw, can you not use a handsaw?


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## joiner_sim (22 Jul 2011)

It is exactly how I wanted it, apart from only wishing I could have used thinner timber. If I had of rebated the lid into the box I would not have been able to chamfer the top as I wanted to. While I respect that it is not made "correctly" it is made to how I wanted to make it. The joints may not be perfect but they are good enough for me considering I only cut dovetails on the rare occasions anyway.

And maybe this next bit of info may put me down, but I'm going to correct you on your estimate of how long I have been doing carpentry & joinery for. I have been working now since 2003, regardless of what people's opinions maybe on this piece of work (that I must add, I am pleased with and so is the recipient) and have worked on some high quality jobs earning a living every week and my earnings have almost trebbled since I achieved my qualifications in the trade.


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## doctor Bob (22 Jul 2011)

joiner_sim":1jodumfz said:


> It is exactly how I wanted it, apart from only wishing I could have used thinner timber.



That was my point, surely it's not how you wanted it then?


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## RogerBoyle (22 Jul 2011)

joiner_sim":1z6zlsmw said:


> I had to use 17mm timber, as the hardware I had available to me required fixing to the box, mainly the catch, and I could only find 15mm veneer pins to fix it with. If I could have sourced something smaller the timber would have been also thinner. Really I would have liked to have a maximum thickness of 13mm.



A tip for future reference

Use a pair of pliers /Side snips etc and cut the pins down to the length that you need


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## joiner_sim (24 Jul 2011)

I made a sacrifice in the design to accomodate the ironmongry (pins) available to me. I am happy with the "chunky" feel to the box, as it is intended to be placed on a desk or something similar. In future I may try snipping the pins down when I come to order more timber. The next few boxes I am going to make may be from softwood and rebate top & bottom with mitred corners, as I do need much more practice at box making!


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