# Reynolds Hand Morticing Machine restored (finally).



## Bm101 (14 Aug 2019)

A few years back I bought a big old lump of morticer from a (somewhat) former member on here, the very kind and affable condeesteso.
Lugged it home in two parts in the van, then sat it up under cover but outside my shed. And there it sat. And sat. And sat. 
Sad state of affairs really. Then Ryolith did an excellent restoration job on another brand of similar machine and it set me thinking. Always dangerous. If I wasn't going to use _something_ at least needed to happen.
Ryolith's Resto: triumph-mortiser-restoration-t116867.html?hilit=triumph

What I didn't want to do was spend hours painting mine as I wasn't entirely sure I wanted to keep it so the budget was very tight, even in top condition these don't sell for much more than the paint I'd need. I love the machine but that wasn't enough, it takes a lot of room and I wasn't sure how much use it would get other than for one oak Porch project I have that keeps getting put off for various reasons. How many huge mortices would I ever need to cut other than that? 
In all fairness to condeesteso, he did try to warn me! 

So I got the grinder out and a box of flapper discs... (hammer) 

All the work is fairly self explanatory so will keep details to a minimum. (For once). Lots of pics though. 

Starting out in a bit of a sorry state.
















Some nice detailing on the counterweight. Some wording is a little lost on the casting. 





Beginning to take it apart and use the grinder. Red Iron paint. Nasty job. Filthy, masked up and keeping everyone well away.















The more I took it to bits and cleaned it up the more impressed I got. Looks fairly rough initially but where it matters it is finely engineered. The mating surface of the x-y tables were bang on and the moving parts of arm mechanism also. The threads on the wheels and handles are excellent.

More flapping... 










... but I was well aware there were areas the grinder would never get near and was investigating various paint removal techniques like peelaway etc, the modern non trade options being a bit lacking. The trade ones being pricey. Hmmmm... 










So I got on with derusting the handwheels and screwthreads and bolts in citric acid, salt and a drop of fairy liquid in the meantime





and started looking for a bigger option for the other parts. My previous Big Red Bucket not coming close.
I raided the abandoned retail units near my house.
Sweet!





Duly filled it with water, added half a box of citric, then left if for the night.
Came back from work the next day. Bleedin' empty! Missed a tiny spit on the seam. Gah! Didn't tell the Mrs I had leaked 200 litres of acid water all over her precious garden either. 8-[ 
Back over the units for a slightly smaller option with no holes.





See them bubbles? Tastes just like champagne. Honest. 






This is where I had a Rather Pleasant Surprise. Yay! 




It's only gone and done the paint lads!
Woop! I'm a surprise genius!
It was after that surprise moment of triumph that I realised I could have just dipped the whole lot and not spent several horrible hours on the grinder looking like an extra from Mad Max..... Ah well. Live and learn. Every silver lining has a cloud and all that.

These get a workout with the brass wire brush drill attachment, which finishes them off nicely and removes any last remnants.









Big bits need two dips! Dippy Bin V2. was_ just_ big enough to do both halves. 










Couldn't fit the base anywhere to dip it, so the hidden underneath bit got a coat or three of Hammerite Kurust. Excellent excellent gear if you don't mind it going black. Here it's hidden so no worries.





After asking the experts (thanks!) on here I went with stove black for the finish. I like it and I think it suits the machine well.
All oiled up and put back together.





Testing it out. It cuts really well. The real deepjoy moment was sorting the bits out and realising this will cut good and importantly *narrow* mortices with the bits I have. That means it's a keeper after all. 
This machine was growing on me all the time. 




I haven't fitted permanent wooden beds to it to allow a bit of flexibility. Maybe at some point I will. Not sure yet...

You can raise and lower the main mechanism by undoing the bolts on the rail. The little crank handle on the top takes the weight out of it then you cinch up the bolts again. It's clever.

















Didn't highlight the counterweight in orange because I couldn't see where to start and stop on some of the letters. Best to leave well alone I thought.





There were number threes stamped in various parts of the machine. Serial number here?
More important, it shows how you to reverse the direction of the chisel. Unclip, swing the handle 180 degrees and push it into the other spring loaded clip. Tidy!





The x-y and clamp wheels. These all work with one finger more evidence of quality engineering during manufacture. Yes, that is indeed a rubber an O ring on that pin. I didn't have any spare rod the exact imp. size for a perfect interference fit. This metric bit I had spare fits fine, I peined one side off, the O ring means I can take the wheel if if needed. Don't tell anyone. :-$ 





From the front.





Arty shot.





I was really lucky to get such a wide selection of bits with the machine.





And finally, somewhere to call home. This is just on the wall behind the morticer now. It tapers in width so all the bits fit in nice and snug and stand up straight.  





All for £12!





Cheers all.
Chris


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## TFrench (14 Aug 2019)

Lovely job mate. Lucky to have all the proper chisels with it! I don't know if you follow Keith Rucker (vintage machinery) on youtube but he has made a gigantic evaporust dip tank for his current metal planer project. He has to lift components in and out with a gantry crane...


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## adidat (14 Aug 2019)

excellent resto!!

where would i buy citric acid from?

Adidat


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## Trevanion (14 Aug 2019)

I was wondering how you were getting on with this restoration the other day as I saw these on eBay, which reminded me of Rhyolith's restoration and your own comment about starting on yours 

You've really done that old girl justice, lovely job. Most modern electric morticers don't even come close to the build quality of one of these beauties, and unfortunately, we'll never see their like again. I've only ever seen them in museums so I've never actually got to use one properly, one day though :wink: I imagine it's a lovely thing for a hobbyist as there's absolutely no noise with using it comparing it to even hand morticing. Doing mortices by hand you'll be hammering on the chisel making a right racket and with an electric one you'll have the auger clattering around in the hollow chisel, with this it's just the noise of the timber being chopped out and nothing else, lovely


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## Phil Pascoe (14 Aug 2019)

https://www.buywholefoodsonline.co.uk/c ... -125g.html
The downside being you need £30 for free P&P. They do some excellent stuff and it mounts up quickly, though.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hexeal-CITRIC- ... 1768&psc=1
Plenty about.


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## Demusss (14 Aug 2019)

Is citric acid better than white vinegar? 
I've done a few planes with vinegar.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk


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## Bm101 (14 Aug 2019)

adidat":1usxujve said:


> excellent resto!!
> 
> where would i buy citric acid from?
> 
> Adidat


Anywhere from local health shop to amazon Adidat. It's food safe. No nasties here. I use amazon and buy the biggest batch I can reasonably use because 'economy of scale.' Its powdered and comes in a plastic tub so you dont have to store volume like vinegar. You can make huge amounts from a 1kg box etc.
The salt is supposed to speed up the reaction. I add a drop of detergent like fairy because it breaks surface tension on the tank. I think there's probably better solutions but not for the money or the agg.
I find it less aggressive than white vinegar but this is pure circumspection. I always rinse using baking soda and water on smaller metal because I have had flash rusting when I haven't. Not once when I have. It works so I do it. I don't question the quantities.
I have never tried molasses or electro magic.
I believe both also give good if not better results with certain negative effects. What can you do.


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## Bm101 (14 Aug 2019)

Trevanion":nlksst1r said:


> I was wondering how you were getting on with this restoration the other day as I saw these on eBay, which reminded me of Rhyolith's restoration and your own comment about starting on yours
> 
> You've really done that old girl justice, lovely job. Most modern electric morticers don't even come close to the build quality of one of these beauties, and unfortunately, we'll never see their like again. I've only ever seen them in museums so I've never actually got to use one properly, one day though :wink: I imagine it's a lovely thing for a hobbyist as there's absolutely no noise with using it comparing it to even hand morticing. Doing mortices by hand you'll be hammering on the chisel making a right racket and with an electric one you'll have the auger clattering around in the hollow chisel, with this it's just the noise of the timber being chopped out and nothing else, lovely


Thanks fella.
Someone has been busy on the linisher!
Crikey!
:shock: 
I paid that for everything. I was very lucky to buy off a very nice guy.


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## Bm101 (14 Aug 2019)

Demusss":36owxclr said:


> Is citric acid better than white vinegar?
> I've done a few planes with vinegar.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk


I think so Demusss. If anything it's worth it for the fact you can store it dry so tiny volumes of space and it doesn't stink. Thats enough positives for me. Plus you can add more or less to a mix.
No expert. Just a hobby chancer. Fair warning.


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## Bm101 (14 Aug 2019)

Incidentally, if anyone reading this is in touch with condeesteso (or on facebook? https://www.facebook.com/pages/category ... 381805905/)
I think he would like to see the machine now. If anyone could pass on that its done and the following message I'd really like that.

'It's done. Bit late. The colour was _always_ red lead, the undercoat where it existed was dark grey, you got the chisel out just by twisting it in the end, thanks again, I have more window cleaning supplies if needed, it was a huge pleasure to meet you and your lovely Wife and you were right, I should have taken the vice you tried to give me. Thankyou for being such a top human being. I still have some of the Ash you gave me for free. Trying to get better skills slowly. Thankyou D.C. You made a very good impression. Very Best wishes, Chris'


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## toolsntat (14 Aug 2019)

I'll text him for you.


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## Bm101 (14 Aug 2019)

Cheers Andy. :wink: 
I love the people on here sometimes.

:roll: =D>


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## MikeG. (14 Aug 2019)

Lovely job Wallace, as usual.
























:lol: :wink:


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## Bm101 (14 Aug 2019)

I'd say thanks but that's an insult to Wallace.


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## toolsntat (14 Aug 2019)

Done but I hadn't realised the rest of the text was for him Chris  
Hope he still has the same number....
Andy


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## Bm101 (14 Aug 2019)

No worries Andy


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## AndyT (14 Aug 2019)

Marvellous!
Having nudged Condesteeso into making the original purchase, I am really pleased to see it getting the love it deserves. It really looks magnificent and will come in handy when you realise you now need to build a bigger shed... :wink:


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## Ttrees (14 Aug 2019)

Great job, love the black, it really suits.
Did you try painting the letters to see what it would turn out like?

I would love to have a go on it 8) 

Thanks for showing 
Tom


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## Bm101 (15 Aug 2019)

Cheers Tom. I blacked it first then was wondering about the lettering and initially thought red but orange seemed a better option for some reason. Who knows?! I just wizzed the grinder over the letters to clean the lines up and remove the blacking and used Humbrol enamel model paint, it's not cheap by volume but by dint of being in a tiny tin.  3 or 4 coats was fine on to bare cast to get the colour up.


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## pitch pine (15 Aug 2019)

Damn I now want one of these (and have passed over a couple in the past). 

Excellent job Chris.


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## condeesteso (15 Aug 2019)

Hi Chris (and Andy, yes, same number, same old habits 

Thank you very much for the message and very kind words. I don't recall that vice but yes, you should have taken it as it's probably still in the storage box from the move !

Really good to see the Reynolds and know it has been taken care of. Lovely restoration, and a proper dry safe home for what is a very fine old piece of England.
I did get very lucky with the chisels for it as I believe that in those days tapers were not standardised so finding the Reynolds fit would be rather hard. The man I got it from gave me a number of someone who had a set... and it all came together.
I've been so busy sorting this house out I hardly have time to make anything. Got a new small hand-tool shop done and the machines in one end of a big garage... but no time.
I do get along to Richard Arnold's Charity Auction day every year so see Andy (TnT) there, along with Ollie Sparks, Richard Hughes, Racers and everyone else who deserves a mention.

I will try and make something soon (I did a door recently but it doesn't really count. All proper it was, but a door is just a door.
Anyway, top work Chris, really delighted to see the Reynolds being cared for so well - it deserved a good home and I'm sure it has a century or two of good work in it.
Best wishes to all the old gang here. If you have my number it's not changed.
all the best, Douglas

edit p.s. - love the 'arty shot'


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## Bm101 (15 Aug 2019)

Brilliant. I'm a happy man now. Thanks Douglas. I will make it come hell or high water next year to Mr Arnold's Big Day Out. I'm going to book the time off work next year. So I would buy you a beer but more likely a cup of tea and a cake seems likely.  Thanks ever so much for replying. Made my day.


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## ilovelizlemon (15 Aug 2019)

Top stuff =D>


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## Noel (15 Aug 2019)

Great work Chris.
Excuse my ignorance but how is the mortice cut? Hole first or similar to cutting one by hand? Which would, I assume, mean rotating the stock/chisel? (I think you mentioned something about rotation).
Lastly, there's a chisel with no edge, is that for finishing or something else (or perhaps it hasn't been given an edge yet?).

TIA.


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## Bm101 (16 Aug 2019)

Thanks Noel.
I'm not exactly sure I did my test cuts the 'right way' tbh. I started in the middle of the mortice. Like my old hand powered drill it's a bit of a rub the belly, pat the head scenario. With the drill you were spinning the arm and the feed at separate speeds. Not difficult in itself but a rhythm to become accustomed to.
As I say, started in the middle of the mortice and just pull down trying to get a feel for the resistance of the machine and the wood. I've never used a powered morticer but I'd guess this is a far far closer experience to cutting one by hand in that respect. Being a big lever it is fairly powerful but you are also looking out for the wood. You're also spinning the bed in small steps to move the wood along the cut. If you have ever seen people cut peat, its a bit like that. A tiny bit. So you have one arm above your head going up and down and your other hand spinning wheel in localised motions. Hence rub the belly pat the head description.
In the test cuts in cheap soft pine I did, I found you could exert some fair pressure but the pine, being soft cheap pine would tear easily. As I neared the end of half of the mortice I switched the lever round to reverse the chisel and cut the other half out. It was only then that I'd approach each end of the mortice and creep up on it. Very accurate and dead square. You do have to take care to have the chisel at 90 degrees to the bed (this is why we do tests!  ). 







See the identical parts either side of the shaft with the springs under compression? They are the holding clips. The handle you can see bottom right, swings the entire shaft (and hence the chisel bit) through 180 degrees. 
If you look at the bottom 'holding clips' carefully (no idea of the proper name sorry) you can see the inside face of each is swept. That means you don't have to lift it when swing the arm round to secure it, only to release it.
Like I say, when you first look at this you think it could be a rough old workhorse and cobbled together. Far from it. It's extremely clever and precision made. Fair play to Mr Reynolds.

As for the flat tapered bit. I was rather hoping someone clever would tell me what that was for. I have no clue tbh. Sorry! Could be it's never been ground as you suggest. I'd never though of that so thanks . There is another example in the rack that might look like pitted rust but I think It has just never been used. There is no more than the idea of rust on these bit's despite the photos. Maybe they were supplied rough in an age the buyer would be expected to know their A*** from their E**** and be able to sort them out and grind to their own preference? :wink:


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## scooby (16 Aug 2019)

No doubt, that was a lot of hard work and it looks great.
Well done.


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## AndyT (16 Aug 2019)

Turning to the question about the flat tapered bit... I reckon it's a _core driver_, used for forcing the chips out of a mortice. 

There's a detailed description of using a hand mortising machine in Ellis's Modern Practical Joinery. 

I thought it was also interesting as it describes how to make sloping cuts on the outside of the mortice (for glueing wedges in) by reversing the chisel - not something I would have thought of, but essential for a lot of joinery work. (He also says a core driver is needed for hand-cut mortices.)

For completeness, here's the whole thing:


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## AndyT (16 Aug 2019)

Also, have a look at this catalogue listing (Melhuish, 1925) for a machine not named as Reynolds and not identical to yours, but very similar. (Maybe a later model?) The kit of chisels includes two "core drifters".






https://archive.org/details/MelhuishWoo ... alogueNo25


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## AndyT (16 Aug 2019)

But wait, there's more!

This confirms that your machine could possibly be _quite old_ and - according to an entirely unbiased write up for which no backhanders could possibly have been offered or accepted - :wink: rather good:






https://archive.org/details/FWReynoldsCatalogue1876


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## Bm101 (16 Aug 2019)

Crikey Andy. You truly are the Professor! =D> =D> =D> 
Many thanks. That's_ amazing_ information! 

1875! I was born in 1975 which by my maths makes this almost exactly 121 years old! Incredible!!!  
I owe you a pint._ Another_ pint!
I hope you are not writing them all down mate tbh I have a mortgage to pay. Kids to feed!. :shock: 
Sincere thanks Prof. As always. 
Really. 
Cheers, 
Chris.


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## AndyT (16 Aug 2019)

Happy to help when I can!
Don't forget that these stayed in production for 40 or 50 years or so, until small electric motors came along, so yours could be under-reporting its age


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## Noel (17 Aug 2019)

Bm101":3242ff4j said:


> Thanks Noel.
> I'm not exactly sure I did my test cuts the 'right way' tbh. I started in the middle of the mortice. Like my old hand powered drill it's a bit of a rub the belly, pat the head scenario. With the drill you were spinning the arm and the feed at separate speeds. Not difficult in itself but a rhythm to become accustomed to.
> As I say, started in the middle of the mortice and just pull down trying to get a feel for the resistance of the machine and the wood. I've never used a powered morticer but I'd guess this is a far far closer experience to cutting one by hand in that respect. Being a big lever it is fairly powerful but you are also looking out for the wood. You're also spinning the bed in small steps to move the wood along the cut. If you have ever seen people cut peat, its a bit like that. A tiny bit. So you have one arm above your head going up and down and your other hand spinning wheel in localised motions. Hence rub the belly pat the head description.
> In the test cuts in cheap soft pine I did, I found you could exert some fair pressure but the pine, being soft cheap pine would tear easily. As I neared the end of half of the mortice I switched the lever round to reverse the chisel and cut the other half out. It was only then that I'd approach each end of the mortice and creep up on it. Very accurate and dead square. You do have to take care to have the chisel at 90 degrees to the bed (this is why we do tests!  ).
> ...



Thanks Chris for the detailed explanation and also to Andy for the additional information, especially on the square chisel/core driver. I see there is a boring attachment on the Melhuish listing/Centre Motion Machine (quaint description) example Andy posted.
Very interesting.


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## Trevanion (28 Aug 2019)

Spotted this whilst glancing through my books  































Small segment from Tenoning, Morticing and Boring by A.H.Haycock 1949


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## AndyT (29 Aug 2019)

Now that's the sort of detail not available anywhere else. I knew your books would be useful!


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## Bm101 (29 Aug 2019)

Thank you so much for sharing Trevanion. This is fantastic information. It even goes so far as to explain that the flat bit is a core driver! And now I heard the term it's self explanatory.... Isn't it funny how something completely baffling can be blindingly obvious when its been explained clearly from a position of knowledge. 
Wonderful. I am in both yours and Mr Haycocks debt my friend. 
=D> 
Best regards
Chris


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## Trevanion (29 Aug 2019)

That's why I like old books, there really isn't anyone alive with practical knowledge of these kinds of things anymore and it's very easy for information to slip into the abyss and be lost forever. One of my favourite quotes is:

"I liken it to train going down the track. As the train goes down the track, the train of society, it's scooping up information, scooping up, scooping up, scoping up as it goes down the track. For some reason, the train can only hold so much information, I don't know why, and the guy on the caboose, he's throwing the information off as fast as he can to make room for the new information coming on the front. And the problem with that is the information we're throwing off is the information it took us 25,000 years to glean." - Eric Hollenbeck

[youtube]otgjdSa6ceA[/youtube]

I must've watched the video a dozen times over the years. Good stuff.


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## rxh (17 Sep 2019)

I have just discovered this thread. A great restoration and lots of interesting information. I saw this machine on a visit to condeesteso a few years ago and was very impressed with it.


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## Trevanion (23 Oct 2019)

Spotted this Reynold's morticer on eBay and it reminded me of this thread once again, Somebody's taken quite a bit of time, effort and thinking to turn it into a more modern machine with a hollow chisel and auger: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mortising-machine-by-F-W-Reynolds-and-co











Some very clever engineering going on there! Also nice it's making use of something that might've otherwise ended up as scrap or sat outside in the rain until it rotted away, I think the majority of the older non-powered morticers ended up like that, but there's the odd exception like yourself where they're being used and loved.


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## Bm101 (24 Oct 2019)

I'm with you Trevanion, these machines, lovely as they are have been superseded for all but the curious few. Even then the sheer size is a limiting factor for most of those interested. If any regular members are interested and local, feel free to invite yourself round for a go. En10. Pm me. Bring your own timber lol. 
That looks like a eminently practical use for what is just cast iron in the end. Better to be used than go to scrap every time. Or be a turned into a lamp. :wink:


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