# Chalk and Cheese



## Lightweeder (29 Apr 2009)

This is an 'orrible old fencepost - softwood I imagine. It's a useful shape, despite its modest appearance, and I couldn't get a good finish on the top, across the grain.









This is yew :wink: :wink: as if you didn't know. I'm a bit paranoid now I know it's toxic 









 I'm not sure it's even to my taste, but there's not much you can do with little bits like that. Comments please.

LW


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## stevebuk (29 Apr 2009)

nice brace of boxes there LW, really like the Yew, toxic or not.


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## wizer (29 Apr 2009)

Leaps and Bounds comes to mind LW.

You've got a good finish on the top one. Tho, did you jam the lid back on and flush the base with the lid? It looks like theres a bit of a step there.

The Yew box is nice. Very much like something Mick Hanbury does in one of his videos.

Keep it up


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## CHJ (29 Apr 2009)

Like the little Yew box *LW*, don't think You need worry about Yew unduly, just take care not to breath in dust or get it in your eyes etc.

I'm sensitive to either but get no problems from handling work once it is sealed and finished.


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## rkchapman (29 Apr 2009)

I really like the yew box - shape really works for me....


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## Lightweeder (29 Apr 2009)

wizer":1idbox3k said:


> Leaps and Bounds comes to mind LW.
> 
> You've got a good finish on the top one. Tho, did you jam the lid back on and flush the base with the lid? It looks like theres a bit of a step there.
> 
> ...



wizer - i see it. But how'd I do that without using tailstock and leaving a mark   Sure there's a way.

Chas - you're bound to breath the dust, try as you might. I've haven't got a proper extractor, but I keep me 'Henry' blasting right in front of me nose - will that do it :?:


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## CHJ (29 Apr 2009)

Lightweeder":f1atzzao said:


> wizer - i see it. But how'd I do that without using tailstock and leaving a mark   Sure there's a way.


Poke my nose in here, moisten the lid box lips, wood swells and holds lid whilst you blend join.
Or:

Make wooden nose to fit over tailstock centre point and press this up against lid with tissue or foam between.



Lightweeder":f1atzzao said:


> Chas - you're bound to breath the dust, try as you might. I've haven't got a proper extractor, but I keep me 'Henry' blasting right in front of me nose - will that do it :?:



Extract as much dust as possible whatever the wood type, high air movement volume is best around a lathe, your henry is best at high suction but rather low volume, only real answer for personal safety is a mask that filters to P1 level minimum, preferably P2. Unfortunately they either don't come cheap or convenient.

Have you seen my attempt at setting out the basics.


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## Lightweeder (29 Apr 2009)

Thanks Chas. I've read your notes on dust extraction. I've got to be honest. It's laudable, of course, but by the time you've got your reading glasses on, and your welder's mask, and the Henry running under your nose, it's beginning to get a bit difficult to see what you're trying to do. My poor husband has moved all his model aeroplanes out to give me most of the garage, but it's got to be kept in proportion. Then there's the cost issue. If I have any spare cash, I would   prefer to spend it on some new tools or exotic blanks. I hear what you say though.

I'll try the wetting the rim tip - that sounds good, and I'm sure I could cobble something together for the tailstock.

Thanks again Chas. I always appreciate your time and help.

LW


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## CHJ (29 Apr 2009)

Lightweeder":1yfktoz5 said:


> ...... Then there's the cost issue. If I have any spare cash, I would   prefer to spend it on some new tools or exotic blanks.



Would never be pedantic enough about the subject to stop someone enjoying the hobby, just be as careful as possible, a new pair of lungs are expensive.


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## wizer (29 Apr 2009)

yep or make it a nice tight fit in the first place. I saw a golf ball drilled out to fit over the revolving centre somewhere, probably here.

'ark at me, never even turned a box


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## loz (29 Apr 2009)

What you can also do is,

Use the tail stock lightly, then true the lid diameter to the body diameter, and get your shape nice, finish, then tape the lid to the body on the sides, while you then remove the tailstock, and finish the lid top !

I find masking tape works well and does not damage a finsih if removed promptly !


ps - there a walkthrough of a 3 sided box in the april newsletter on my site i just posted - was a demo last month.


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## loz (29 Apr 2009)

wizer":1gykmgm5 said:


> yep or make it a nice tight fit in the first place. I saw a golf ball drilled out to fit over the revolving centre somewhere, probably here.
> 
> 'ark at me, never even turned a box





Get making some boxes wizer ! great for patience when getting body spigots and lid recesses ( and viceversa ) to fit snugly !

And then fustrating when a little sanding makes it loose again !!!

Loz


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## stevebuk (29 Apr 2009)

i have just re-watched richard raffans video on making boxes, i will have a go myself shortly, i am dying to make another bowl, but shortage of wood prevents this, and i cant find the time to go to turners retreat yet either, hopefully within the next couple of weeks.


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## cornucopia (30 Apr 2009)

theres a box guide on my blog- which is very similar to raffans way-

your in the minority of box makers as you have your male tenon on the lid, most box makers( including me,i find it easier) prefer to put the male on the base. the method is very similar though:

finish inside lid
form tenon to match lid on the base- jam lid onto base
true up the outside of the lid and base while there together
finish outside of the lid and base
finish inside of the base
ease the fit of the lid before taking the base out of the chuck
reverse chuck the base to clean up the bottom
admire your work


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## cornucopia (30 Apr 2009)

loz":2muzyr4o said:


> wizer":2muzyr4o said:
> 
> 
> > yep or make it a nice tight fit in the first place. I saw a golf ball drilled out to fit over the revolving centre somewhere, probably here.
> ...



in the ideal world(its not always possible) dont sand either part of the tenons- cut them with a very sharp skew.


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## Paul.J (30 Apr 2009)

Very nice* LW*
The Yew one looks different and i like it.Nice shape and finish.


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## tekno.mage (30 Apr 2009)

Nice boxes, LW. That first one is an interesting way round to make the flange - could you not make a jam chuck for it to allow finishing of the lid without the tail stock?

The yew one is very nice, and once finished there should be no problems with the toxity of yew via general handling. I wouldn't use a yew item for food storage, or let any small children get their hands on one (in case they chewed it). Regarding the dust extraction - I too used a Henry as a dust extractor for a while and found it very effective providing you can fix the nozzle up close to the work. I upgraded to an Axminster dust extactor a few months back mainly because I was fed up with carrying the Henry back & forth between workshop & house (it is my house vacuum cleaner!)

tekno.mage


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## Lightweeder (30 Apr 2009)

Loz - that's neat. Could try that - but actually, because I've got the tenon on the lid, I can rechuck it and take out the mark from the tailstock, but I'd obviously have to allow a bit of extra to do that. Maybe it's a female thing, but I prefer the 'male' end on the lid, so you see a clean rim on the business end.

Tekno - thanks for comments. I've got a Henry to myself, and generally keep it stuck under me arm :wink: , but I don't think any system will be effective. I mean, it hangs in the air for ages IMO.

Can anyone tell me how to quote just part of someone's post :?: Just highlighting it doesn't work for me.


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## wizer (30 Apr 2009)

You have to quote the whole lot then delete the bit you don't want. No easier way.


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## Lightweeder (30 Apr 2009)

wizer":1hhkd7pu said:


> You have to quote the whole lot then delete the bit you don't want. No easier way.



Why didn't I think of that  Thanks Loz.

LW


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## wizer (30 Apr 2009)

LW I've sent you a PM


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## loz (30 Apr 2009)

Lightweeder":kwbw5vfd said:


> wizer":kwbw5vfd said:
> 
> 
> > You have to quote the whole lot then delete the bit you don't want. No easier way.
> ...



Just fixed that for you !


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## duncanh (30 Apr 2009)

Lightweeder":33bdviir said:


> Tekno - thanks for comments. I've got a Henry to myself, and generally keep it stuck under me arm :wink: , but I don't think any system will be effective. I mean, it hangs in the air for ages IMO.



An ambient air filter is what you need to remove dust (that's been missed by the extractor) from the air.
I use a Microclene 400. I vacuum its filter at least once a week using my Camvac. It's on pretty much all the time and you can see the airborne dust moving towards it.


Duncan


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## CHJ (30 Apr 2009)

Lightweeder":36wljszm said:


> .... Maybe it's a female thing, but I prefer the 'male' end on the lid, so you see a clean rim on the business end.........


*LW,* this can be a problem dependant on what is stored in the box, items have a habit of finding their way onto the recess ledge , or just overhanging it. this then stops the lid from fitting in recess.

With recess on lid anything contained in the box is held clear of the external lid locating recess by the spigot..


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## Jenx (30 Apr 2009)

Hiya LW, nice boxes .... Realy like the Yew, its great ! 

What Duncan says about Camvac / Microclene is spot on for a 'reasonable cost' solution.

I have only got to the Camvac stage so far ... And its a great wee machine. Next stage is the Microclene bit...

My Cammy was , IIRC about £130 ( Delivered ), and ..well you'll know the price of the M/C's I'm sure ...
Still a reasonable outlay, but as Chas says, what price lungs ? ...
I guess we have to 'budget' these types of items into being part of our 'kit'.. as they are kind of essentials I suppose.

Can't speak highly enough of the Camvac... Its great. 


Excellent progress on the boxes, though ! 
Looking wonderful ! 8) 
Get yourself into the competition!  8)


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## Lightweeder (30 Apr 2009)

OK, ok, it goes on the list :wink: :wink: after the power sander, the hollowing tool and the buffing system. Oh, and the sharpening jig - and the new 5/8" gouge because I sharpened the b*****y out of the other one :evil: 

At my age, something's got to get you :roll: 

I hear what you say Chas. I promise to try it your way - one day :wink:


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## mark sanger (30 Apr 2009)

Good work lightweeder. 


Nice boxes, well done. 

I have skimmed over the thread so apologies if this has already been mentioned. 

Have you ever seen or used collect chucks. I make mine out of ash/oak and use a jubilee clip. Then you can put you box lid in them and tighten the jubilee clip and compress gently around the box to finish off the base etc. 

I will post a pic if it helps.


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## Lightweeder (1 May 2009)

mark sanger":3ef993tu said:


> Good work lightweeder.
> 
> 
> Nice boxes, well done.
> ...



I remember seeing something using a jubilee clip mark. Yes, would much appreciate a pic. Thanks  

LW


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## Lightweeder (1 May 2009)

Thanks all for dust extraction advice. So.... can I get away with the Henry (which is actually quite powerful) and a small suspended Microclene :?: Jenx, the camvac does look good, but I can't have both and it looks like the Henry might do for the immediate dust, while the Microclene does the ambient dust. Sorry to drone on, but does that sound reasonable :?


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## wizer (1 May 2009)

That should be fine. You'll be surprised how much the Microclene takes out of the air. Just have Henry on when you're sanding. He'll die if you try to use it while turning. 

What have you got in the way of a mask?


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## mark sanger (1 May 2009)

Hi Lightweeder

You must get yourself a mask. 

If you buy a cheap halogen 50 bulb/light on a bendy arm, they sell then in Focus. Shine this at an angle away from where you are working. If you see dust particles in the beam you should be wearing a mask.

Don't buy the disposable paper/clothe ones they are a waste of time for wood dust. You need one with a valve. They are a bit uncomfortable but I expect more comfortable than carrying round an oxygen bottle.

If you look on a dedicated woodworking/woodturning shop website then they will have the best ones to get and explain it in detail.

And lstly don't take your mask off once you stop sanding/finishing as it will all still be in the air.

Sorry to go on but it is important.

Any way on to the collet chucks.

Made of Ash/Oak or any similar hard wood

this one here is 70mm dia x 90mm high with a 60mm recess.

Turn the basic shape between centres, 

turn a spigot to fit you chuck.

Put it in the chuck and drill it/turn it out to a depth of 55mm and inside dia/hole of around 48. You want the wall thickness to be about 10-12mm to flex.

turn a recess for the jubillee clip to go round 

Then turn a shoulder inside to take what size boxs you normally make. this one is 55mm.

Most box makers standardise the sizes of the boxes they make and have set size collet chucks and templates for form etc.

Then put your jubilee clip in and mark how long the screw/tightening mechanism is. You then take it off and carve away under this as in pic 4.

If you do not then the metal band under the screw will push one side in more than the others and it will not run on centre.

Then using a suitable jig/wedges to cut circular material on the band saw cut twice at 90deg to each other down the length. This will make the four slots ( make sure the carved out bit is in the middle of one of the side.
You can cut the slots around 2 mm wide. This will give you quite alot of clamping movement. 

Then make your box to fit the collet. Pop it in an tighten it up and you can finish the bottom/top etc.

You can make them any size length ( within reason) and change the recess depth inside to suit. If you make the distance from the jubilee clip to the front face around 25 mm then you can skim it out and back quite a few times if needs be to fit different sizes before you need to make another.


Hope this helps. If anything is not clear just ask. I will get back to you after the weekend as am away working over the weekend. I never knew turning would mean so much driving.

It never said that in my Lathe instructions !!


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## CHJ (1 May 2009)

I am sorry to keep banging on about this but as Mark says, if you can see dust in the air, or settled on a surface anywhere in the shop as a result of your turning/sanding then you need a mask that works.

An air cleaning filter is good for keeping a cleaner shop as far as removing dust that can spoil a finishing process when disturbed but you must remember that if there is dust for the cleaner to collect then there is dust for your lungs to do the same.

Even cleaning mask or cleaner filters with a shop vac is suspect if your vacuum cleaner does not have fine enough (hepa?) filters to prevent re-distribution.


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## duncanh (1 May 2009)

If you can't afford a powered respirator then how about one of there designed for MDF. It's like what I used before I got the powercap. 

When I used it I put a piece of kitchen roll over the filter to act as a pre-filter. The speed at which it got coated and needed replacing was alarming - round about once per week.

Duncan


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## wizer (1 May 2009)

I'm not sure we've established that LW is or isn't already using a mask yet.


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## Paul.J (1 May 2009)

*LW.*
This piccy shows the very fine dust,that looks like smoke,coming from drilling the timber,and as you can see it is been drawn into the dust pipe that is still a few inches behind where the drilling is taking place :shock: 
If the extractionj wasn't there the dust would jst be thrown round all over by the lathes speed.


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## Lightweeder (1 May 2009)

Oh lawdy :shock: I bought an expensive mask, but my glasses steamed up and I couldn't see what I was doing - not a pretty sight  

Duncan - that mask that looks like it's designed for germ warfare wouldn't go under my welders' mask. Otherwise, that would be just the ticket :!: 

I'm taking your heed and buying a proper system, but I've only got half a garage, so I hope I can get away with something relatively modest. If not, then so be it. I'll get it. But do I have to buy the two, ie the extractor and the ambient air thing. Can I get away with the MC100 suspended over the lathe, and the Henry stuck up my nose :evil: 

Need your help. Thanks

LW


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## Lightweeder (1 May 2009)

Mark - thanks for the post. I can work something 'round that. Much appreciated.


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## jpt (1 May 2009)

THESE are good masks and fit under full face visors.

I also wear glasses and used one of these for about a year before getting a full face air mask. They vent out of the bottom of the mask through a valve so dont mist glasses.

john


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## duncanh (1 May 2009)

Lightweeder":xaqwg0r1 said:


> Duncan - that mask that looks like it's designed for germ warfare wouldn't go under my welders' mask. Otherwise, that would be just the ticket :!:
> 
> I'm taking your heed and buying a proper system, but I've only got half a garage, so I hope I can get away with something relatively modest. If not, then so be it. I'll get it. But do I have to buy the two, ie the extractor and the ambient air thing. Can I get away with the MC100 suspended over the lathe, and the Henry stuck up my nose :evil:
> 
> ...



How much can you actually see through your welding mask? Don't most of them have just a small glass part in front of your eyes?
I know it's more to spend, but I used one of these flip up safety visors from Axminster. Only £7 (plus postage, of course). Also useful around the garden when strimming or using the hedge cutter.

You probably could get away with just a microclene and your Henry, then add an extractor when you have some of spare cash (hmmm, if only!).

I'll try to remember to take extractor, microclene, visor and powercap along next week if you want to check them out.


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## Lightweeder (2 May 2009)

What I call a 'welding mask' is really a full-face visor, so Duncan - similar to the one you showed me.

John, I think that also looks like an option, but it doesn't get rid of the problem of ambient dust.

Duncan - thanks for the offer to bring your kit along next Saturday, but please don't go to that trouble. I can just imagine how much hassle that would be - I'm coming to the conclusion that I'll get the Camvac, used with a decent mask, and if that doesn't seem to do the trick, I'll add the Microclene on later.

Much appreciated lads - thanks.

LW


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## wizer (2 May 2009)

No I think that's the wrong combo. The camvac is only going to help when sanding and your Henry can handle that. The microclene will clean the air so that when you do take your mask off the air is clear. Also this will reduce the covering of dust on everything in the WS, which means even when you are not turning in there, you're better protected. Spend the money now on a good mask. Either a AirAce or even better an Air Shield. Duncan can show you his AirCap, that won't be difficult for him to stick in the car for you. Upgrade to a camvac when you have the cash


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## Lightweeder (2 May 2009)

wizer":3up1tr9x said:


> No I think that's the wrong combo. The camvac is only going to help when sanding and your Henry can handle that. The microclene will clean the air so that when you do take your mask off the air is clear. Also this will reduce the covering of dust on everything in the WS, which means even when you are not turning in there, you're better protected. Spend the money now on a good mask. Either a AirAce or even better an Air Shield. Duncan can show you his AirCap, that won't be difficult for him to stick in the car for you. Upgrade to a camvac when you have the cash



OK. Thanks wizer. I was thinking that the Camvac would take the ambient dust from the immediate area, but I don't know how powerful the Microclene is. I mean, I know the one I'm looking at has a 400 cu m'hour flow rate, but hey :wink: :wink: what the beejee's does that feel like. I'll look at these all in one respirator visors, plus the Henry, and the Microclene. How's that :twisted: :twisted:


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## mark sanger (3 May 2009)

One thing that I failed to add about using these collet chucks Lightweeder is please keep you fingers away from the screw bit of the jubilee clip. When I use these I am only working on the base/face of my lids and never the side so never in the firing line.

Another option for small work is to turn out a cylinder with a shoulder at the front. Then cut through one entire side of it. Then when you put this in the chuck jaws and tighten the jaws the cylinder clamps on the work.

This tip was given to me by a fellow turner at the weekend as it is a safer option. 

Take care 

Mark


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## Lightweeder (4 May 2009)

> Another option for small work is to turn out a cylinder with a shoulder at the front. Then cut through one entire side of it. Then when you put this in the chuck jaws and tighten the jaws the cylinder clamps on the work.
> 
> Mark


If I understand you correctly, this is something I do, but you couldn't do it with a box with lid, where you want a continuous flow of grain and want as little space as possible between box and lid.


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## Soulfly (4 May 2009)

A pair of reasonable items. The fir box could do to be a bit more rectangular in shape and the yew box has that amatuerish over elabourated and fussed about look- the sort of thing you might see in a craft marquee. The best thing I can suggest is that you get into the habit of sketching and drawing your ideas before letting yourselves loose on the material if it is a new design. Concentrate on balance, proportion, detail, curves etc. Also concentrate on your tool skills. You cannot create good shapes and design if your tool skills are not up to scratch. 
Wear a respirator and keep you workshops as aired as possible whenever there is dust about


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## mark sanger (4 May 2009)

Soulfly":2lvr3due said:


> A pair of reasonable items. The fir box could do to be a bit more rectangular in shape and the yew box has that amatuerish over elabourated and fussed about look- the sort of thing you might see in a craft marquee. The best thing I can suggest is that you get into the habit of sketching and drawing your ideas before letting yourselves loose on the material if it is a new design. Concentrate on balance, proportion, detail, curves etc. Also concentrate on your tool skills. You cannot create good shapes and design if your tool skills are not up to scratch.
> Wear a respirator and keep you workshops as aired as possible whenever there is dust about



Soulfly.

I very rarely allow myself the indulgence of speaking my mind in an open forum. But you don't half talk a load of tosh.


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## boysie39 (5 May 2009)

LW, its a big outlay to get everything thats needed for the W/S but the most important things are for your health. You have got very good advice so as soon as you can get what you can. I would go with the Microclene 400 as a priority.
If you dont mind I wold like to thank Mark Sanger for the tip about the last chuck he mentioned. Good luck LW, and thanks Mark. REgards Boysie


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## Lightweeder (5 May 2009)

mark sanger":3883jql8 said:


> Soulfly":3883jql8 said:
> 
> 
> > A pair of reasonable items. The fir box could do to be a bit more rectangular in shape and the yew box has that amatuerish over elabourated and fussed about look- the sort of thing you might see in a craft marquee. The best thing I can suggest is that you get into the habit of sketching and drawing your ideas before letting yourselves loose on the material if it is a new design. Concentrate on balance, proportion, detail, curves etc. Also concentrate on your tool skills. You cannot create good shapes and design if your tool skills are not up to scratch.
> ...



Thanks mark :shock: 

Boysie - I'll bump into Duncan at the weekend and I'll just confirm it with him, but more or less agree with you. Happy to spend the money once I've made my mind up.


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## Jenx (5 May 2009)

Soulfly.. you are indeed the strangest of fish....
Confrontational 80% of the time, yet on occasion, constructive and bordering on helpful.

perhaps I can point something out ... Lightweeder is similar to me,.. just starting out, relatively speaking.
let me draw you an anaolgy. -- by trade, I'm a pipefitter ( plumber / heating / instrumenation pipework )... I progressed through my trade apprenticeship, firstly winning an award at the tech college I attended, then I went on to win a regional apprentice's competition, and ultimately represented my country against three lads, from England, Wales & Northern Ireland, in a national competition, where I was beaten into second place by the English fella. Without tooting my horn ( as thats not the point I making )... pretty much the best damn pipefitter who's backside points south... but _THIS_ is the point ------ I didn't have that ability by default.. I had to _learn_ it... people taught me, people with more experience that I had, and definately a shed-load more ability than I had...... and when learning, if someone of this advanced experience and ability had _'shot me down'_... that would have given my confidence a knock of gargantuan proportions, and would probably have ensured that I would never had got to the level I did, and definately killed off the enthusiasm that I had for it.

One day.. one day far off at the moment, I'd like to think I may perhaps become an accomplished, competent turner.
When that day arrives ( if it ever does ),.. I'd like to believe that there will be people coming behind me, having just started out in their turning.
I hope to be still around to encourage them, and foster their enthusiasm and nurture them along in their own quests for greatness at that time.
Much in the way that 99.9% of the skilled hands here do for me, and my contemporaries at the stage we are at with our turning presently.
In fact, assuming that 'that day' eventually comes.. I'd almost see it as a duty.... a way of 'putting something back' into the 'craft', .. and a duty which I would embrace and enjoy - and certainly positively look forward to.

If we take you at face value, and 'buy in' to you being what I aspire to .. _an accomplished and highly competent turner_... may I respectfully suggest that you adopt the attitude described above when_ 'encouraging' _us 'newbies and learners'.
By all means, I'm sure that all of us novices welcome constructive advice and criticism... pointers as to how we can improve, suggestions as to how we could have achieved something more easily, more quickly or more effectively.... but please, I urge you ..... the use of vocabulary like 'amateurish' etc, are perhaps not the most conducive in conveying encouragement to people.

Please think about the wording of such things ... as an 'advanced turner', I'd suggest you perhaps have certain 'responsibilities' in encouraging those of lesser experience --- and as with everything, 'responsibilities' need to be discharged with care.

Thanks.


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## loz (5 May 2009)

=D> =D> =D> 

Go On Jenx !!!!!!


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## mark sanger (5 May 2009)

=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ 

Jenx


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## Lightweeder (5 May 2009)

Man's entitled to his opinion :wink:


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## cornucopia (5 May 2009)

=D> well said Alun- you put it much more politely than I could or would have


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## Doug B (5 May 2009)

Excellent point, very well made Jenx.


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## wizer (5 May 2009)

oh _come on_ Soulfly's all right..  :-#


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## CHJ (5 May 2009)

wizer":20593bvt said:


> oh _come on_ Soulfly's all right..  :-#


You forgotten your medication again Wizer :?: :!: :!:


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## DaveL (5 May 2009)

CHJ":235rj6xp said:


> wizer":235rj6xp said:
> 
> 
> > oh _come on_ Soulfly's all right..  :-#
> ...



Double the dose, its not working.  :wink:


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## big soft moose (5 May 2009)

now now guys - lets not feed the troll.

personally i'll start taking him seriously the day he shows us some of his work - until then I standby my assertion that he's not a turner at all, just a pure troll , and as we all know trolls are best ignored (unless they are living under bridges and thinning out the local goat population)


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## big soft moose (5 May 2009)

LW in my opinion you have done well to get any kind off finish on the fir - softwood is a puppy to turn at the best of times - that said i would probably have made it a little *less* rectangular as it is kind of straight sided and reminicent of a coffee jar

I like the yew - though maybe i'd have had one less bead on the lid.

( and mask wise i'd pretty much echo the others - you need either a dust mask or prefferably something like an airsheild or a dust cap - you say you are worried about the yew, but in fact breathing in an ammount of any dust toxic or not is not going to be good for you - you also need to keep the dust out of your eyes - I have only just recovered from oak related conjunctivitis - a result of pressing on finishing and oak bowl after my airsheild died - I have a dust cap now , lesson learnt )


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## Lightweeder (6 May 2009)

b s m - thanks for the comments. I'm going to get some sort of respirator/mask, but I like the way my current mask just flips on or up or off with just one hand, and I can just stretch up and stick it on a hook hanging from my ceiling - really handy - while the Trend one seems to be open at the top and fastened with elastic. More research to do.

I agree with all comments - even soulfly :roll: :roll: The fir was intentionally that shape, so that I can actually put stuff in it - it was never going to be pretty, though I could have improved the 'flow' and will next time - thanks to help from guys on this board.

The yew was over ornate, I agree.

.....and I would expect to look amateurish - that's what I am :evil:


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## wizer (6 May 2009)

Have a look at this video

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/87-dust-in-time/

He's not a turner but it's still relevant. Take note of the bit about the air cleaner (filter).


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## Lightweeder (6 May 2009)

wizer":28gix7ma said:


> Have a look at this video
> 
> http://thewoodwhisperer.com/87-dust-in-time/
> 
> He's not a turner but it's still relevant. Take note of the bit about the air cleaner (filter).



Wizer - thanks my friend. This looks good. That carbon stuff's looks effective - but it still has that floppy strap and no 'visor', so I'll keep looking for that as an ideal.

Did you see that Spalted 'Hackberry' Bowl on the home page? Absolutely to die for :wink: :wink: bit like my current dust extraction :evil:


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