# Polyurethane finish for oak table



## Fluffy (12 Sep 2012)

Hi all

I've just built a oak table and wondering about what finish to apply, I thought shellac looks nice when i tried it on a piece of scrap but i understand it's not very hard wearing for a table.

So i've ordered some rustins polyurethane satin clear varnish. Can I dilute with white sprit then apply with a cloth, is this better/easier?
Also can/should I apply a wax over it afterwards, to bring out the grain? The beeswax I've already got says only to use on bear wood.

Any Comment would be greatly appreciated as i'm quite new to ww, especially finishing.

Regards, Chris


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## twothumbs (21 Sep 2012)

Fluffy. Many years ago I read an article in a wood magazine by , I think an ex. Director or technical person of a well known paint / varnish manufacturer. He said poly. varrnish was much under-rated and was a good finish for e.g. table tops. A rub on wax with steell wool on top of several coats of varnish and buffed up several times and so a good durable finish. As it is Oak you couldn't use steel wool but one of these plastic abrasive pads would work a treat. Poly. varnish was the subject of snobbery as a plastic finish when it first became available! Not the real thing and all that...........silly really. It is a case of using the finish appropirate to the use. Hope this helps. Don't think it is the case now but poly. used to yellow a bit although I am sitting in front of a Mahogany table I made and coated in the mid 70's and it hasn't yellowed. Almost bomb proof....children, drink, candles, etc. I would use a brush if the grain is slightly open and rub between coats....if necessary. Best wishes.


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## Phil Pascoe (22 Sep 2012)

Wax, on top of any plastic/ varnish finish is polishing the finish, not the wood. It won't make any difference to the grain.


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## twothumbs (22 Sep 2012)

In case I didn't explain properly......the rubbing down with wax takes the plastic look away and leaves a good looking finish and rather traditional. Perfectly good. Best wishes.


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## Fluffy (23 Sep 2012)

Hi thanks for the comments.

Hi

After a bit of practicing on a bit of scrap, I think afterall I will use tung oil for this particular project. It seemed a bit easier to go on.

I think i will try poly on another project.

Is it possible/a good idea to use paste oil over an oiled finish??

Thanks, Fluff.


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## RogerS (23 Sep 2012)

I would try Rustins Plastic Coating. It is a two-parter. Why have you gone off the idea of using something like this or the poly? Brush marks?

Personally I hate oils like tung oil and Danish oil.


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## RogerS (23 Sep 2012)

I would try Rustins Plastic Coating. It is a two-parter. Why have you gone off the idea of using something like this or the poly? Brush marks?

Personally I hate oils like tung oil and Danish oil.

Axminster also stock a water-based hard wearing finish which works well and also gives less colour change. http://www.axminster.co.uk/polyvine-acr ... rod847430/


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## Fluffy (23 Sep 2012)

Brush marks are a bit of an issue, and dust. I also wondered if it went on a bit heavy. Reminded me of gloss painting which I find difficult to get really smooth.

I was thinking oil's easy to put on, seems to go on evenly when applied with a cloth. 

thanks for link, looked up plastic coating. What's that like compared to varnish?


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## RogerS (23 Sep 2012)

Harder wearing, in my experience.


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## Uncle Chas (24 Sep 2012)

maybe osmocoat? wax based, designed for floorboards, so hardwearing.
Tried it on an oak toybox/desk & looks great. easy to repair any chips, apparently.


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## Phil Pascoe (24 Sep 2012)

Much as I like Plastic Coating, one problem with it on oak is thay if you want a flat finish, you end up with all the high (harder) grain nicely matt and the low spots a lovely gloss (that you can't get rid of!) It's much better on smooth woods.


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