# Walnut and painted WIP



## JonnyD (11 Jul 2012)

Its been a while since i did a project on here so here goes. Basically its going to be a walnut veneered birch ply carcased kitchen with a painted beech front.

I ordered about 65m2 of black walnut veneer from capital crispins and got 4 sequential packs of veneer from 250mm to 320mm wide. First job was to crosscut the veneer pack to the required length which was done on the table saw.







A piece of sacrificial mdf is held ontop of the pack to help keep it flat when cutting






Over the years ive jointed the veneer in many ways using the planer, festool saw, panel saw but i find the best way is to use the shooting board. 

The board is as basic as it comes a piece of mfc with some 9mm mrmdf screwed to it which is screwed down to the bench to stop it moving.






The veneer pack is placed on the jig with 3mm ish overhang 






A 25mm piece of mdf is then placed on top






The problem with edging any veneers is keeping the veneers from sliding around whilst they are being jointed. The mezzanine floor above the bench comes in very handy here and a few few props are absolutely brilliant at keeping the veneer in place and clamping the veneers together so you can shoot a perfect edge and very quick to setup.






I used to use my stanley no 7 but the LAJ is now weapon of choice






Just plane away until the plane stops cutting and your done 24 leaves at a time






your left with lots of fine shavings






The panels can now be joined together starting with some masking tape to temporarily hold them






veneer tape is then put across the edge at about 100mm centres






the masking tape is then removed and veneer tape put along the seams






the back






Ive got about 70 layons jointed up ready and the glue was delivered today so hopefully pressing will start tomorrow

DougB kindly turned me a sample knob which we then had made on a copy lathe and have made some supports to allow them to be painted gloss black






Thanks for looking

cheers

Jon


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## Paul Chapman (11 Jul 2012)

Blimey, what a lot of knobs :shock: :lol: 

Interesting thread.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Doug B (11 Jul 2012)

As Paul says, interesting thread Jon, what glue will you be using for the veneer?


Cheers.


PS, I`ve never had my knob copied before, first time for everything :lol: :lol:


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## JonnyD (11 Jul 2012)

cheers chaps hopefully this will be a very nice job when its done. The glue is a uf resin called borden ul39 a bit like cascamite but goes off in about an hour. Theres about 80 knobs there thats saved you some stella time doug :lol: 

cheers

Jon


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## JonnyD (12 Jul 2012)

Been doing a bit more. 

Glue is a 2 part mix consisting of the resin






And the hardener which looks like Cascamite






The glue is mixed by weight and you have 5 parts resin to 1 part hardener. I have found that you need about 175 to 200g of mixed glue per square metre. I used to muck around with some cheapo plastic kitchen scales but bought some digi scales for this job and there brilliant and you can be accurate to 1 gram

The resin






The Hardener






Mixed together






Just about fills the pizzi roller






The roller makes spreading the glue dead easy






Theres 4 panels going to be pressed at a time the first 2 are walnut which are then flipped and placed face down on the caul






The backing Sapele veneer is next






Another 2 panels are stacked on top with a plastic film in between to stop the panels sticking together if any glue gets through






The final walnut face veneers are applied the panels lined up so that they are dead in line and a caul is placed on the top of the stack






The whole lot is then slid into the bag and the vacuum pump turned on






After about 1 hour the glue has gone off and the panels removed with the veneers perfectly pressed






Just sanded one of the panels to see what they looked like






sorry about the ammount of pictures

cheers

Jon


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## Doug B (13 Jul 2012)

Good progress Jon.

Don`t worry about the amount of photos, the more the better, it`s really interesting to see how you go about veneering on this scale.

That hopper fed adhesive spreader must save hours.

What is the shelf life (un-mixed) of the 2 part adhesive & what`s the smallest quantity you can buy?


Cheers.


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## Paul Chapman (13 Jul 2012)

Doug B":9taoivan said:


> Don`t worry about the amount of photos, the more the better, it`s really interesting to see how you go about veneering on this scale.



+1. That Black Walnut veneer looks lovely.

Keep the excellent photos coming  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (13 Jul 2012)

Good stuff, but the caul on top of the job in an vacuum press ain't needed :? ...I've done stuff as big in my AirPress, just lob it in the bag, seal it up and switch on the pump. What I do which is slightly different is to cover all the sharp edges of the job with a few layers of thick paper (usually from old mags etc) so that there's less pressure on the corners (and thus less chance of a puncture). It's probably a bit of overkill and not needed, but it's a habit I've got into now - Rob


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## Chems (13 Jul 2012)

Great WIP, one of the best on here in ages. Keep it coming!


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## Doug B (13 Jul 2012)

Sorry, couple of more questions Jon.

Does the plastic bag have to be a certain thickness?

Second, I can see the caul has rounded corners which I presume is to stop it tearing the bag, but is this just an off cut of sheet material? I imagine using it speeds up getting the job into the bag which is important as the adhesive seems to be fast setting?

After getting rained off today on site I`ve been in the workshop ever since sorting out the vacuum pump from my lathe chuck as I fancy giving this type of veneering a spin  

Cheers.


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## JonnyD (13 Jul 2012)

Doug B":1767dfu4 said:


> Sorry, couple of more questions Jon.
> 
> Does the plastic bag have to be a certain thickness?
> 
> ...



The airpress bags are quite thick polyurethane i think, but you can use quite thin plastic films which you can get from fibreglass suppliers which makes the bags almost disposable.

The caul is just an offcut of mfc with the rounded corners to stop the bag from puncturing. The caul serves a few purposes mainly it gives even pressure on the top veneers if you dont use it there is a chance of localised low pressure spots. due to the bag rippling up slightly. It also protects the top veneers from being damaged as it slides in the bag. If you dont use it you can quite easily catch the veneers and wreck the job. Also if your veneering ontop of a lipped edge the veneers are stretched a little if you dont use a caul and sometimes this can lead to slight spiltting of the veneer. If im doing curved stuff i may use just the bag but i mostly use an offcut of lino as the caul on curved jobs.

The glue can be bought in relatively small quantities from here as little as 3kgs a time http://www.adkwik.co.uk/index.php?dispa ... t_id=29861 i think it says its best to use it within 1 year on the data sheets

cheers

Jon


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## JonnyD (13 Jul 2012)

Progress today has mainly been more veneering. Popped out of the workshop to put the plinths on a little job we did a couple of weeks ago its a sprayed mdf and corian worktop for a foot surgery 











Back in the workshop just had time to start sorting out some beech for the frames we are using 1 1/2 inch stock as the frames will be 33mm finished with 30mm doors






The new wadkin crosscut has been bodged up so that it works and its saved a lot of time crosscutting the rough planks. It will be pimped properley when this project is finished






more next week

cheers

Jon


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## jhwbigley (13 Jul 2012)

JonnyD":2ktv628x said:


> Jon



Looking smart Jon, some really nice walnut veneer there. I'm warming to the shooting method for joining veneers after witnessing Robert Ingham's veneering master class at the last Northern Contemporary thing.

Have you every tried using a whisk for mixing glue? It really does work, and quicker too. 

JH


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## woodbloke (14 Jul 2012)

jhwbigley":2etr0drv said:


> . I'm warming to the shooting method for joining veneers after witnessing Robert Ingham's veneering master class at the last Northern Contemporary thing.
> 
> JH


I've tried all sorts for cutting veneers and I reckon a veneer shoot is the best way to get a decent edged that's fit for joining. That said, RI's veneer shoot looks like it's been built out of odds n'sods salvaged from the Tirpitz (hammer) (if it's the one I'm thinking of) - Rob


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## wallace (14 Jul 2012)

Hi its nice to see how the big boys work in their workshops.

Mark


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## tsb (14 Jul 2012)

I love watching all the WIP posts but forgive me for asking. Why are you doing all that veneering, for the sake of the carcases. Wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to buy walnut faced mdf. Would the customer actually notice any difference?


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## No skills (14 Jul 2012)

Interesting to see how large scale veneer is done, love the walnut.


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## doctor Bob (14 Jul 2012)

tsb":3gmhc5nm said:


> I love watching all the WIP posts but forgive me for asking. Why are you doing all that veneering, for the sake of the carcases. Wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to buy walnut faced mdf. Would the customer actually notice any difference?



I know it's walnut veneer birch ply, but as above why not buy in birch ply sheets, veneered in walnut, I got some for £72 a sheet a year or so ago, somewhere in the midlands, 10 sheets, job done.


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## worsley947 (14 Jul 2012)

Looking good johnny as always  I will watch this wip and comments with interest
Dave


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## JonnyD (15 Jul 2012)

doctor Bob":1xb885ri said:


> tsb":1xb885ri said:
> 
> 
> > I love watching all the WIP posts but forgive me for asking. Why are you doing all that veneering, for the sake of the carcases. Wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to buy walnut faced mdf. Would the customer actually notice any difference?
> ...



Hi tsb it would certainly be cheaper to buy walnut faced mdf but the client was adamant that it was the birchply as the base material and was keen to have wide leaves of veneer.

Hi Bob can you remember the name of the company. The quotes i had were more than double what you payed. I actually dont mind veneering it as we are getting paid well to do it which is the main thing. 

thanks for the comments

Jon


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## JonnyD (16 Jul 2012)

Been doing a bit more today started by ripping some stock to make the face frames in CND Beech which stands for colour no defect but in reality its pretty clean stock usually. 

Sections were machined on the planer thicknesser







I prefer to do the widest face first and then thickness all of the pieces to thickness in this case 33mm






I then joint all the edges and thickness to width






To start making the frames i cut the joints first before mouding the bead. A 45 degree cutter is used in the router table to do this. I decided to treat myself to a new squelch bit on the fence so i moved the fence along a bit and made a cut






A couple of lines are scribed on the fence to aid laying out the joints






The end cuts can be setup by aligning a piece of stock against the scribed line and the stop (a right angle of corian) attached to the fence






To do a notch in the middle of a board you need to know how wide the cut is in this case its 26.5mm






The stock for this part of the face frame is 50mm wide so a 23.5mm spacer is made on the table saw to allow the notch to be cut with one fence position






The joint is marked out and the first line aligned with the scribed mark on the fence and the stop positioned






First part of the joint is cut






The spacer is then inserted between the end of the stop and the stock and a second notch made which will be the exact size of the 50mm rail






The bit in the middle is taken out freehand






The end 45 degree cuts are done by moving the stop to the right place






I start with the outside frame






And then add the bits in the middle. This frame is in 1 section about 3 metres long






Thanks for looking

cheers

Jon


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## Mr Ed (16 Jul 2012)

Nice work Jon.

How does the CND beech compare to Poplar in price?

Ed


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## JonnyD (16 Jul 2012)

Mr Ed":11ubb8qg said:


> Nice work Jon.
> 
> How does the CND beech compare to Poplar in price?
> 
> Ed



Its more expensive than Poplar but has the benefit of being considerably harder. I think the cnd beech is around £650 to £700 a cubic meter plus the tax in comparison to poplar at about £500 ish

cheers

Jon


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## doctor Bob (16 Jul 2012)

Nice job Jon, I'll need to look for the supplier of that veneered birch ply.
Have you ever tried doing the notching using a sledge with a carriage for a hand router, this is the method I use and can do a about a dozen rails at a time, plus you can wizz out the middle quickly. I can just slide in stops for different positions of the notch or widths of the bars.
I then have a permanant router set up to do the 45 degrees and another for the bead. For the cost of 3 routers I leave these permanantly set up, rather than having to set everything up for each project.
So if I just need to do one frame it takes 5 minutes rather than all the set up time.

I'd love to get a morso notcher rather than the v type but don't see many about.


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## JonnyD (16 Jul 2012)

It would be interesting to see a pic of your notching setup Bob I havent really considered doing it like that as i thought it would mean a new jig for every different width of stock used

cheers

Jon


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## doctor Bob (16 Jul 2012)

Just one jig with a router slide over the top.
the slide width is about 250mm, say the router base is 150mm it means that using the whole slide would take out 100mm, by making packers I can reduce the width to appropriate widths, my standard bar sizes are 80, 60, and 37.5mm.
The whole sledge is about 1000mm long and I have the slide positioned about mid way, by just putting a stop one end the router would cut a groove about 500mm down the rail, so if I use a stop with a bit of MDF at say 350mm I can use this for a drawer line bar etc etc I have set depth stops for high lines, drawer lines, 2/3/4/drawer packs.
It also means the cutter is not exposed, I don't think I could do it your way due to employees and Hse.
Come down or call in if your passing Jon.


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## JonnyD (22 Jul 2012)

Some more progress in between doing some other jobs. Started off by applying the bead to the frame parts. Because i wanted this to be super crisp i used a powerfeed on the router table. I havent got a dedicated feeder for the router table so the table is moved near to one of the spindle moulders so the powerfeed off that can be used. Using the feeder allows a climb cut to be done safely and no chance of tearing the grain. If you click on the blurry picture you should see a video of the operation

Clicky




The frames are then dominoed 2 5mm slots in each piece 











The frame is layed out on the bench to check the joints and setup the clamps needed for assembly






A few clamps are used the long ones are 2 900mm clamps bolted together






I was really impressed with the gluebot which I tried out for the first time on a complicated glue up. No drips or having to manically shake the bottle to get the glue to come out. The shape of the nozzle makes it good for domino slots as well. You can get them from Intelligent workshop






After the glue was cured the other end of the frame could be glued on






Been working on the carcases and sized the panels on the panel saw and cut a groove for the back






Bit of handwork to clean up the saw tracks and give the groove a consistent depth






The shelf supports need a 5mm hole so i use the router for this

1/4 inch 5mm router drill designed to be used at high speed






30mm guide bush attached to the router.






The jig consists of 6mm mdf with 30mm holes drilled in with a forstner quick and cheap to make on the pillar drill






holes drilled











These are some pics of work we have already done on the job which is the utility room There is no bottom frame rail so easy access to the appliances. granite is about 800 deep


















thanks for looking

cheers

Jon


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## Paul Chapman (22 Jul 2012)

Great stuff, Jon. Like the video 8) 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## JonnyD (26 Jul 2012)

As long as Chappers is interested I'll continue  

We need to make quite a few drawers from solid walnut so started by cutting it up into smaller bits






Planed and Thicknessed






Quite a few of the drawers are 300mm deep pan ones so the walnut needed joining so the boards were matched up and the joints shot on the planer






We had a good go at using every sash cramp in the workshop






Whilst the glue was drying on the walnut the wood was prepared for the doors. The spec required 31mm thick doors and i had no specific tooling for it to use so it meant setting up 4 machines to do the job.

First off the tenons were cut on the tenoner with a stepped shoulder to allow for a scribe cut






One router table was setup to cut the scribes on the tenons










Another table was used to put the moulding on






Finally the components were grooved out on the spindle






Dry fit of the door. The panel will be 9mm mrmdf






Also been spraying the carcase components with A/C Lacquer 20 percent sheen

First coat on






The dry top coat






Anyone interested there is a vid below of the spraying of the top coat. This isnt meant to be the definitive way of how to do it just how i do it to get really good results. The panel has been flatted with 320g and the surface hoovered to remove the dust. One coat is applied with the grain then another across the grain. Setup is a fuji q4 HVLP turbine. 

clicketty click





Thanks for looking

cheers

Jon


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## Karl (26 Jul 2012)

Great work Jon.

What glue do you generally use - PVA or PU?

Cheers

Karl


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## Paul Chapman (26 Jul 2012)

JonnyD":a2vsmv5w said:


> As long as Chappers is interested I'll continue



 

Looking really good. Excellent thread with great pictures.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## mtr1 (27 Jul 2012)

Good work Jon, enjoying the thread.


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## JonnyD (27 Jul 2012)

Karl":ike918dy said:


> Great work Jon.
> 
> What glue do you generally use - PVA or PU?
> 
> ...



Hi Karl for general assembly work I use mainly pva type glues either titlebond 3 or a d4 pva . I will sometimes use PU but find it a bit messy for general assembly work and for laminating will use uf resin. 

Cheers

Jon


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## Karl (27 Jul 2012)

Cheers Jon. I'm the same - PU too messy for day to day use. I've been using Polyten for most purposes - a 10min rapid cure waterproof pva.

Cheers

Karl


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## Steve Maskery (29 Jul 2012)

Excellent, Jon, thank you.


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## JonnyD (21 Aug 2012)

Been a bit since i updated you so here goes.

Frames are large rather than 1 for each cupboard so the first job is to site the frame and scribe it to the floor so that its level






The frames are attached to the carcases with dominoes and pocket screws






The carcases are leveled to the frame and then the 2 biggest carcases are attached first so that they can be pocket screwed down the sides










The 2 smaller carcases are attached and the unit slid into place as a whole






The doors and drawer front had been shot tight in the workshop but we adjusted the fit on site to make sure everything was spot on after the 40mm thick granite had been plonked on top










The painter has been in and done his thing main units are painted in F & B light grey and the hood in slipper satin the granite is absolute 40mm thick with 20mm upstands. It took 6 of us to lift the big bit in. Knobs are gloss Black . The drawers solid walnut on dynapro runners 


































Thanks for looking still a bit to do on this project a curved island with a walnut top and a walnut unit to go around the fridge

cheers

Jon


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## Grahamshed (21 Aug 2012)

Its looking good, very good.


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## Mr Ed (21 Aug 2012)

Top work Jon

Ed


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## Setch (21 Aug 2012)

Lovely work, but why on earth is the customer hiding all that lovely walnut inside a painted cabinet?! Seems buttocks'bout'face to me...


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## Paul Chapman (21 Aug 2012)

Looking great, Jon. Beautiful work, as always.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Tierney (21 Aug 2012)

Lovely stuff, keep the pictures coming.

DT


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## Doug B (21 Aug 2012)

Top Drawer JD =D> 


Do I get a royalty payment for each Knob :?: :-" :lol: 


Cheers.

Doug


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## Karl (22 Aug 2012)

Excellent work Jon.

What do you think of the Dynapro runners? I've just ordered some of the Dynamoov, which I believe are the same as the Dynapro but without the rear adjustment facility. And how much did you pay for them?

Cheers

Karl


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## JonnyD (24 Aug 2012)

Thanks for the comments



Setch":2l0xs00g said:


> Lovely work, but why on earth is the customer hiding all that lovely walnut inside a painted cabinet?! Seems buttocks'bout'face to me...



Customers choice and the customer is always right as long as there willing to pay for it.  



Doug B":2l0xs00g said:


> Top Drawer JD =D>
> 
> 
> Do I get a royalty payment for each Knob :?: :-" :lol:
> ...



I reckon 10 knobs equates to 1 Stella :lol: 



Karl":2l0xs00g said:


> Excellent work Jon.
> 
> What do you think of the Dynapro runners? I've just ordered some of the Dynamoov, which I believe are the same as the Dynapro but without the rear adjustment facility. And how much did you pay for them?
> 
> ...



I like the dynapros been using them for a few years now . I think they were about £18 ish plus vat for the runners and clips. The 60kilo ones for the big drawers were quite expensive iirc 

Cheers

Jon


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## Modernist (24 Aug 2012)

Just come late to this Jon after hols. Is there any problem with the veneer tape telegraphing through onto adjacent panels doing them in a stack in the vac bag?


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## JonnyD (24 Aug 2012)

Modernist":2vgaqubs said:


> Just come late to this Jon after hols. Is there any problem with the veneer tape telegraphing through onto adjacent panels doing them in a stack in the vac bag?



I've never noticed any problems Brian. The panels that go together in the bag have always been the balance sapele veneers. I imagine the veneer tape is too thin to make it a problem. 

Cheers

Jon


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## JonnyD (3 Sep 2012)

Time for a bit of an update on this.

Started off using the router and homemade trammel to cut arcs so templates can be made to make the curved rails for the island unit







Using the bobbin sander in one of the spindle moulders to help shape parts for the jig






This jig is for the inside face which is machined first. The rails are initially made slightly long so that they can be screwed to the jig






Because of the curve you are machining against the grain for half the cut which can result in some torn grain. To counteract this on the wadkin spindle you can change the rotation of the block easily and by turning the block over you can machine both parts with the grain and avoid tearout. It only takes a few seconds to change the block over.






rail loaded onto the jig






You can see from this video how the machining is done with the block turned over and the rotation reversed





After the rails are made they need cutting to length at the right angle. A full size rod is drawn up on some mdf to guage lengths and angles






A simple jig is made to put on the sliding table to make the cut at the right angle






The other end is a slightly different angle so some more stops are placed on the saw






Testing for fit






The mitre on the rail for the beaded frame is done by hand with the router






To domino the curved rails into the sides a piece of packing is added to the domino to allow you the present the tool at the right angle










Dry run to see if they fit






Frames are glued and cleaned up by hand with a bevel up smoother






Some detail is put on the legs with a V cutter in the router table






The legs are also stop chamfered done by hand to marks as i couldnt be bothered making a jig or setting up stops on the spindle






The frames are dominoed onto the legs bit of heath robinson clamping to allow dominoing of the curved frames






Got the frames and legs together so that the carcases can be sized up














Thanks for looking

Cheers

jOn


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## promhandicam (3 Sep 2012)

If you carry on like this Jon, you never know, you might one day be able to make a living out of it :lol: :lol:


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## marcros (3 Sep 2012)

Sorry, I may have missed this. Were the rails bent or machined out of larger sections?


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## Modernist (3 Sep 2012)

Very nice Jon, I'm surprised you haven't got a pair those spindles permanently set up in opposite directions.
Anyway where was the power feed?


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## JonnyD (3 Sep 2012)

promhandicam":63tymeh9 said:


> If you carry on like this Jon, you never know, you might one day be able to make a living out of it :lol: :lol:



I reckon if every job was a curved one I'd be broke they always seem to take longer thn you think



marcros":63tymeh9 said:


> Sorry, I may have missed this. Were the rails bent or machined out of larger sections?



Your right I didn't mention it. The rails are machined out of the solid 

Cheers

Jon


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## JonnyD (3 Sep 2012)

Modernist":p2eyglgn said:


> Very nice Jon, I'm surprised you haven't got a pair those spindles permanently set up in opposite directions.
> Anyway where was the power feed?



Too tight a curve for the power feed on this one Brian  It has been discussed setting up both spindles but only really suitable for a bigger run of components plus I haven't got the tooling

Cheers

Jon


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## Paul Chapman (3 Sep 2012)

Great stuff, Jon - and you make it look so easy  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## angelboy (4 Sep 2012)

I'm really enjoying the thread, thanks!


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## Orcamesh (4 Sep 2012)

Yep, tis lovely job Jon. Enjoying the thread too. Am very jealous of all your space.

Looks like you ran out of colour film Jon?!!! :wink:


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## JonnyD (4 Sep 2012)

Thanks for the comments its good to know people are interested and following this.

Today i have been sorting out the inner carcases again in walnut on birch ply. The ends are rounded and the two panels are joined together with dominoes






The frames are built around the carcase when its finally assembled the middle leg will be glued up . it would be impossible to assemble and get the dominos in other wise






Underneath it is pocket screwed to the carcase i used up some ripple ash veneer here as a balancer as it had stained on the edges a bit






Got everything pretty much together by the end of the day 






on this side there is bead and butt paneled recess for sitting at and there will be walnut slats on the bottom






Thanks for looking

cheers

Jon


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## Mr Ed (5 Sep 2012)

Great work Jon.

I know how time consuming it is to do such a detailed WIP, but it's the thing that is most interesting on the forums, so thank you.

Ed


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## mailee (5 Sep 2012)

Awe inspiring Jon! I am really enjoying this thread. I like the jig for the table saw for cutting the angles.


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## shim20 (6 Sep 2012)

really is top work this, what a really quality kitchen it will be, its always intresting to see how people go about things, keep up the good work


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## Doug B (6 Sep 2012)

JonnyD":5li4cib8 said:


>




You`ve painted the workshop walls orange :?: :shock: :shock: :shock:


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## JonnyD (6 Sep 2012)

Doug B":glok5ncb said:


> JonnyD":glok5ncb said:
> 
> 
> >
> ...



They have always been orange I have knocked down the office that was in the corner and inside was painted orange by the previous tenant. 

This is what was removed






Cheers

Jon


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## the_g_ster (6 Sep 2012)

Great post, thanks.

You inspired me to use the method for face frame beading for some cabinets. Apart from one corner it worked a treat.

This post makes it look so easy, the reality is you need very very well set up machines and for us with a small space then it takes so much longer.

I look forward to learn how you made the doors for the curved cabinets. Are the curved rails done from one piece of wood then?


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## angelboy (7 Sep 2012)

Where in Lincs are you?


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## JonnyD (8 Sep 2012)

angelboy":1ipfe70b said:


> Where in Lincs are you?



Just outside of Boston



the_g_ster":1ipfe70b said:


> Great post, thanks.
> 
> You inspired me to use the method for face frame beading for some cabinets. Apart from one corner it worked a treat.
> 
> ...



good to here this curved doors coming up

cheers

Jon


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## JonnyD (8 Sep 2012)

So onto the curved doors mostly in the past we have made shaker doors but these ones have a mould so a bit more tricky.

First job was to make the former for the curved panels about 30 pieces of 25mm mdf were cut to the same size and some 10mm holes were put in using a router and guide bush through the template. The pieces are then assembled onto some threaded rod.






The finished former was skinned in 1.5mm ply but i forgot to photo that






The panel is made up of 2 pieces of 1.5mm ply with a 3.2mm piece of bendy ply in the middle. The 1.5mm ply was used on the show faces as the bendy ply grain is quite coarse






this sucks






The frame component were cut from the solid and machined the same way as frame components previously.

A curved saddle was made to hold the curved rails in the tenoner at the right angle and the cut made









Components tenoned






A scribe cut was made on the router table










The ballache with this was always how was the mould going to be put on the curved rail as the cutter works with the stock flat in the end it was quite simple. some curved parts were screwed onto the router table fence and the bits fed through. You have to lower the cutter slighty than the setting for the flat stock as i found out on the test bit probably to do with the arc or something














Just the groove to put in now. 6.35mm cutter in the router table a curved fence and about 4 3mm deep passes










The former was used to get a datum on the panel to get it square without being twisted






It works a dry run of assembling the door






Thanks for looking

cheers

Jon


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## promhandicam (8 Sep 2012)

You da man!


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## Doug B (8 Sep 2012)

Excellent mate, thanks for sharing.

Cheers.


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## Paul Chapman (8 Sep 2012)

Brilliant 8) 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Noel (9 Sep 2012)

Fantastic Jonny, keep them coming.


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## Mr Ed (9 Sep 2012)

Really interesting to see the curved work.

You surely don't use that fookin big hammer to knock your doors together do you? :shock:


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## mailee (9 Sep 2012)

This is brilliant Jon, keep it coming I am learning by the minute.


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## Mattty (9 Sep 2012)

Nice thread Jonny. Very interesting systems and unbelievable Tekkkkkers on display.


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## JonnyD (9 Sep 2012)

Cheers guys



Mr Ed":263p35d8 said:


> Really interesting to see the curved work.
> 
> You surely don't use that fookin big hammer to knock your doors together do you? :shock:



They only needed a light tap  I don't actually know what it's doing there the doors are assembled using a counterbored screw as its pretty much impossible to clamp them up without a lot of jigging about.

Cheers

Jon


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## the_g_ster (10 Sep 2012)

Awesome wip.

Though all of a sudden I feel a bit humbled at the skill some people have, thanks for sharing though.


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## JonnyD (12 Sep 2012)

Thanks for the comments  

So on with the top

Some expensive 3inch walnut






The top is going to end up at 60mm thick so I decided to do the top glue up in 2 hits firstly the stock was joined into smaller sections the thickness at the moment is 65mm










These sections are then resurfaced and thicknessed down to 60mm due to the size and weight these pieces are jointed on the sliding table with a fine cutting blade






A dry run was done to check everything was straight and level. You can see the double row of dominoes as well






I didnt have enough cramps of sufficient length so 22 sash cramps were bolted together to get 11 the right length






Glued with UF resin

The floor is uneven in the workshop so the tops of the trestles are leveled so hopefully the top will be nice and flat when the clamps are released






I have also been glueing up the carcases






Thanks for looking

cheers

Jon


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## Mattty (12 Sep 2012)

How well did the joints turn out in the worktop? Looks good, that worktop will be impressive.


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## Paul Chapman (12 Sep 2012)

That Walnut looks lovely, Jon. Any particular reason why you use UF Resin to glue up the worktop?

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## promhandicam (12 Sep 2012)

Best get an extra box of weetabix in for when you have to move that mate!


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## CHJ (12 Sep 2012)

That's a stunning top to finish off some remarkable work, don't envy you having to handle that weight of the slab to finish it off, or the completed unit for that matter.


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## Modernist (12 Sep 2012)

Just fantastic Jonny.


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## Doug B (12 Sep 2012)

Paul Chapman":3k56daml said:


> That Walnut looks lovely, Jon.



I agree with Paul, beaut.

Wouldn`t be any bowl sized off cuts would there :-" 

Keep the pictures coming, best wip I can remember.

Cheers.


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## JonnyD (12 Sep 2012)

Mattty":q24qtwda said:


> How well did the joints turn out in the worktop? Looks good, that worktop will be impressive.



The dry run was perfect so hopefully the finished thing will be ok it's still cramped up in the workshop at the moment. 

Regards the weight it's heavy ish but I'll make sure I have my weetabix



Paul Chapman":q24qtwda said:


> That Walnut looks lovely, Jon. Any particular reason why you use UF Resin to glue up the worktop?
> 
> Cheers :wink:
> 
> Paul



Only reason Paul is that I generally use uf for making up panels and ive never had a problem and it's got a decent open time to get the clamps on in time



Doug B":q24qtwda said:


> Paul Chapman":q24qtwda said:
> 
> 
> > That Walnut looks lovely, Jon.
> ...



Don't worry there is a little stack with your name on I'll bring them next weekend :wink: 

Cheers

Jon


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## JonnyD (13 Sep 2012)

The top glued up fine and first job today was to shape it 

Brand new 63mm trimmer in the router







The edges are trimmed to the template






After much sanding it was heaved up to the spraybooth upstairs which was quite an effort.

Is been sprayed with a 30% sheen 2pack Lacquer Its probably a bit shinier in the photos as it had just been coated










Thanks for looking

cheers

Jon


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## Chems (14 Sep 2012)

Beautiful work and great pictures. Were you at all worried cutting that curve that you'd split the end grain? Whenever I'm doing a job like that I always worry the bits going to catch even with the tinyest cut.


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## JonnyD (14 Sep 2012)

Chems":cuv3x1u3 said:


> Beautiful work and great pictures. Were you at all worried cutting that curve that you'd split the end grain? Whenever I'm doing a job like that I always worry the bits going to catch even with the tinyest cut.



Yes it's always a bit nerve wrecking doing it. My procedure for doing it was to get the shape close with the jigsaw about 2-3mm from the line . Cut forwards on the curve bit that's going with the grain and carefully climb cut the edges and curve that's against the grain then a full sweep round to tidy it up.

Cheers

Jon


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## Mr Ed (14 Sep 2012)

Great finish Jon, it looks like a boardroom table


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## timbly (14 Sep 2012)

Hi Jon
Really inspiring work!
On page 2 of this post you use a 45 degree cutter to make the notches to allow for beaded frame construction. Would you mind telling me where you got the cutter - the only similar one I can find on the wealden site is called a mortar cutter http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Mortar_Groove_80.html. At present we use a 45 chamfer cutter with a pointed end which works but makes it more fiddly and time consuming particularly for clearing out.
Many thanks and keep on posting..
Tim


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## JonnyD (14 Sep 2012)

Hi Tim the mortar groove is the one I use either a trend or a Wealden one. The Wealden one is just as good as the trend but cheaper. Kreg do a wider one seen here as a system but dont know if it's available here yet http://www.kregtool.com/Precision-Beade ... dview.html

Cheers

Jon


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## Mattty (17 Sep 2012)

That top looks great Jon. I have found with a new router cutter i get shavings rather than dust when trimming the end grain, it is still always a worry that it will catch though and tear out a big chunk.


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## timbly (19 Sep 2012)

Hi Jon
Thanks for your reply.
I'll get the Wealden cutter - I've always been happy with their cutters and service.
Keep up the great work.
Tim


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## JonnyD (3 Oct 2012)

I fitted the Island unit a few weeks ago but have to wait until the blinds have been fitted before getting some photographs done. This is the unit in the workshop 











Been making a drawer liner for the island unit this week in maple as it was thought this would wear better than walnut and provide a nice contrast.

The outer frame is 14 mm solid maple and is a domino construction






The notches for the dividers are done with a simple jig and handheld router to do a 9mm slot. Tried out the new bessey clamps and they work very well










A round over is put on the 11mm dividers and a very shallow tenon is created for a neat joint











Drawer is assembled but the bottom is going to be screwed on from underneath so it can be replaced if it becomes scratched






Cheers

Jon


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## Doug B (3 Oct 2012)

JonnyD":3o5l2x6c said:


>



:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: 


Loving the Bessy`s, shame to get them dusty though :lol: :lol:


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## Mattty (3 Oct 2012)

Looks good mate.

Always nice to have all your tools too hand  





(pot, kettle, black) x


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## Mr Ed (3 Oct 2012)

Nice work Jon.

Bog roll easily to hand in the last pic for the curved work on the spindle is it?


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## JonnyD (3 Oct 2012)

Yes toilet roll is purely for emergencies

Cheers

Jon


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## Doug B (3 Oct 2012)

Mr Ed":pk6xdrqv said:


> Bog roll easily to hand in the last pic for the curved work on the spindle is it?



& there was me thinking it was keep his bot clean

















His glue bot that is.


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## Greedo (27 Oct 2012)

Best thread I have read on here since I joined.

Various reasons for that comment.

Your client was obviously minted and had an eye for detail with the veneered panels inside etc...., The design is not my style but beautiful, the standard of craftmanship is first class, the amount of photos and updates with explanation on each photo was great and generally, thoroughly enjoyed drinking my glass of Rioja and taking my time reading all 7 pages. Well don Jon. You should be very proud of that job.


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## RogerM (3 Nov 2012)

Only just found this thread and read it through from beginning to end. Just like a good novel I couldn't put it down. Stunning work Jon and so much to learn from the copious detail in the photos. Really inspiring. Thanks so much for posting.

Can you be a little more specific with regard to the spray finish on the Walnut? Which brand of lacquer did you use? What needle size on the spray gun? I'll want to attempt something similar on oak veneered end panels with my Earlex 5000.


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## JonnyD (4 Nov 2012)

Thanks Roger and Greedo.

Roger the walnut was sprayed with Morrells A/C lacquer http://www.morrells.co.uk/products/wood/17 if you look at the link I use the ones with the 440 code but they are all pretty much the same. Spray setup is a Fuji q4 with a 1.4mm nozzle setup and the lacquer sprayed with no thinners although you can add about 10% ac thinners if needed for your setup. 

Hope to get back with a photographer soon to get some pics of the finished kitchen.

Cheers

Jon


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