# Making beaded face frames



## Matthew Woodworks (1 Aug 2021)

Hi,
I've got a commission to make a large ish kitchen with beaded frames. I don't want to do the applied mouldings route and also don't want to end up buying a load of expensive kit for what might be a one off. 

I've a well equipped workshop - table saws, spindle moulder, pull saws, routers etc and just wondered if anyone had any clever ideas on this one? I've thought maybe buy a Morso guillotine but not sure if this will cut the 'notches'? I know they do an expensive purpose made job but it's 5k?
Thanks for any help....
Matthew


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## Jacob (1 Aug 2021)

What do you mean by "beaded frames"?
If you just mean the trad bead you might put on the edge of rails and stiles of panel door it's pretty simple: you cut the beads with either a beading plane, a router, a spindle cutter.
The "notches" you cut by hand.
The main thing is 100% mark up all the joints so you can cut them with your brain off.


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## Doug71 (1 Aug 2021)

Never used one myself but have heard good things about these, I seem to remember someone on here made their own diy version?






Kreg Prs1200 - Kreg Precision Beaded Face-frame System from Westcountry Machinery 4 Wood


Kreg Prs1200 - Kreg Precision Beaded Face-frame System from Westcountry Machinery 4 Wood




www.machinery4wood.co.uk





The few I do I generally just make the frames and pin the beading on after.


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## johnnyb (1 Aug 2021)

I've done a few using a table saw at 45 degrees. raise the blade the amount you need to join the bead. make a mark on apex on a sacrificial fence. use this to align the cuts. dial in everything first though. I find the beads much better cut on a spindle as you don't get any breakout.
last time it was a faff so I brought a mitre bit from wealden thinking I'd make a router table sled. I've not had a face frame job since( typical)


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## Cabinetman (2 Aug 2021)

Not there to check but I’m fairly sure my bead cutter for the spindle is a euro one, so not too expensive, I just mitred them in by hand last time. But Johnnyb's method sounds like it may be more foolproof. Ian


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## Cabinetman (2 Aug 2021)

Doug71 said:


> Never used one myself but have heard good things about these, I seem to remember someone on here made their own diy version?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I’ve been suckered into something like this once before, it’s all made to look wonderfully easy but usually takes an hour to set up, and because you don’t want everything all the same size as these doors are wider than those doors you have to start again and set it all up again, by the time you finished you’ve got through umpteen bits of wood just for testing. Ian


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## TRITON (2 Aug 2021)

If youre confident on cutting accurately, then just a bead router cutter, something like a Japanese dovetail or other fine saw and a sharp chisel.
And a sharp pencil 
Admittedly something like the kreg allows for quick accurate repeatable joints, but its not cheap, and could suck the profit out of it, especially if its this job only and maybe a few runs here and there


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## Inspector (2 Aug 2021)

I suppose a scratch stock is not something you would consider eh?


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## Cabinetman (2 Aug 2021)

Inspector said:


> I suppose a scratch stock is not something you would consider eh?


 Careful inspector, that’s how revolutions start!


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## Inspector (2 Aug 2021)

More of a devolution to a simpler time. 
Pete


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## johnnyb (2 Aug 2021)

I always get bad breakout on the transition between bead and flat using router cutters.


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## Matthew Woodworks (2 Aug 2021)

johnnyb said:


> I always get bad breakout on the transition between bead and flat using router cutters.


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## Matthew Woodworks (2 Aug 2021)

Hi,
Thanks chaps for the advice and I may well end up using one of a combination of approaches, but proves one thing that there is no easy tried and tested way to get lots of accurate joints. The beading is no problem but the notches are. I think what I'm going to do is build a one off jig for my router with a sled to take the rails over the cutter. Something like that. Some experimentation is in need! Many thanks again.....
Matthew


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## Jacob (2 Aug 2021)

Matthew Woodworks said:


> Hi,
> Thanks chaps for the advice and I may well end up using one of a combination of approaches, but proves one thing that there is no easy tried and tested way to get lots of accurate joints. The beading is no problem but the notches are. I think what I'm going to do is build a one off jig for my router with a sled to take the rails over the cutter. Something like that. Some experimentation is in need! Many thanks again.....
> Matthew


I'm pretty sure that if you do it the normal way (as described by Triton above) you will soon get the hang of it and in the process learn some skills.
Key thing is 100% mark up so that you know where you are and what to do next, at every step.


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## Doug71 (2 Aug 2021)

Cabinetman said:


> I’ve been suckered into something like this once before, it’s all made to look wonderfully easy but usually takes an hour to set up, and because you don’t want everything all the same size as these doors are wider than those doors you have to start again and set it all up again, by the time you finished you’ve got through umpteen bits of wood just for testing. Ian



I agree most things like the Kreg jig are a faff to use and I normally avoid such things but I have heard good feedback on this.

I think @monster used one to make his lovely beaded frame kitchen, maybe he will share his experience?


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## richard.selwyn (2 Aug 2021)

This is probably heresy, but I had to make some beaded oak doors as in Johnnyb's photos and cut everything at 45 degrees and assembled with dominos - it was quick and easy and the client was happy. I couldn't decide whether it looked shocking or not.


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## johnnyb (2 Aug 2021)

many years ago I brought a mitre saw used from a chap in the west mid. he'd just used it to clad his workshop/ barn. he made kitchen and I asked him about beaded face frames having messed around using saws chisels etc. he showed me his notching machine. like a guillotine with a flat front and the ability to set the width side to side.must have been 2008 or 9.i was stunned such a machine existed. saw them years later at Harrogate called hoffman


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## doctor Bob (2 Aug 2021)

Yes I have one, I paid about £3000 for mine, about £5000 now. 
Mine is the morso NF.
I used to do them with a sledge and router but the guillotine is much better for a quick set up.


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## monster (2 Aug 2021)

Doug71 said:


> I agree most things like the Kreg jig are a faff to use and I normally avoid such things but I have heard good feedback on this.
> 
> I think @monster used one to make his lovely beaded frame kitchen, maybe he will share his experience?


Cheers Doug! - Yes as Doug said, I bought the Kregg Jig that he's linked to. its really easy to set up and use - and easy to switch between different size doors etc - The notching is done with a large 45deg cutter and works a treat - I was really impressed with the whole process and the results were top notch. I used dominos in each corner which worked really well by cutting one mortise on the loose setting and letting the notch in the stile pull the rail into position - If you have a gander through my kitchen thread I have some detail pics in there of the various stages:









Kitchen Cabinets


I'm about to embark on a new project - face frame kitchen cabinets - and having never made any before I have a lot of questions that maybe the good people here who are far more experienced may be able to help me out with. I'll also post pics here as I go and document the project. The cabinets...




www.ukworkshop.co.uk


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## RogerM (3 Aug 2021)

I cut the notch with a 45deg mortar groove cutter on the router table, and then cut the bead afterwards with a 6mm bead cutter on the router table. It's quick and consistent, and if you have a router table you just need to buy the two cutters.


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## Stevekane (3 Aug 2021)

Hi, I want to put a “beaded edge” onto the face of some timber prior to joining it T&G style. Looking on ebay etc I can find dedicated Beaded edge bits, the top profile being thinner/smaller than the bottom, but I also see that there are Bullnose bearing guided bits,,same profile top and bottom and clearly meant to use on an edge but has anyone tried running one on the face side?,,,any thoughts?


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## Jar944 (3 Aug 2021)

I don't use the kreg beading system, but I do know a few cabinet makers that do. 

I made my own notcher, but it uses a kreg notching bit.


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