# Another New Yankee Style Router Table



## The Bear (15 Jun 2012)

There have been a lot of these over the years. From that I have concluded its a good pretty good design so one I'm basing my design on, though there will be subtle differences. Its being built mainly from 18mm ply, oak trim, with a laminated MDF top. It will sit on casters and the final height is going to be a smidgen under the height of my table saw, so it can be used as part of the outfield support for that.

I started with some hand drawn plans, the cabinet drawn to scale and the top as a full size drawing. One day I will learn to use sketch up.


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## The Bear (15 Jun 2012)

Parts for the cabinet cut to size and housings routed using one of then home made variable width jig jobbies











This is then the main cabinet after it has been glued and screwed together. Screw heads will be plugged later. Picture shows it on its side






Mark


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## andersonec (15 Jun 2012)

Mark,

Just a note on the laminated mdf, I tried this a couple of times and each time, no matter how much weight and clamps, it cupped, not a lot but it cupped.

What I did to overcome it in the end was to firstly make sure the tops of the uprights were absolutely true to each other then fix the first piece down onto the uprights using battens along the top edge of the uprights to screw thorugh into the mdf, once this was fixed I then glued and screwed the second piece on top, this eliminated any tendency for the mdf to warp.

Leave plenty of overhang for clamping on temporary fences and guide strips.

Andy


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## Shultzy (23 Jun 2012)

I made one like yours, and there are a few tips in the text if you want to read it.


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## The Bear (23 Jun 2012)

Thanks, I have read it a long time ago but will read again

Mark


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## sammo (24 Jun 2012)

Don't put a door on the front - I did and after a long session realised that the router was being staved of air flow (even though there was extraction trying to clear the waste!) and over heated - it's not been the same since. Since seen a number of threads about not bothering with the door. 

And for a top -I used a kitchen worktop; if you keep the table relatively small you can pick up off cuts from all the main suppliers cheaply, if not free! Ikea reject isle is all ways worth a visit if you happen to be near one

Chris


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## The Bear (24 Jun 2012)

Chris as I understand it the door needs to have vents in it to allow airflow.
I have considered the kitchen worktop idea but been put off by threads where people have struggled to keep it flat. I have got the bits for the MDF top and will be going that route. Also think my top is too big for an offcut.
Cheers
Mark


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## The Bear (24 Jun 2012)

Here's the latest

The front of the base getting oak lippings






Then the small drawers that will sit either side of the router housing need some guides to act as runners and stop them tipping. I should have fitted these before I glued up the base. Instead I made it hard for myself and needed to wedge some offcuts in while the glue dried






Mark


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## The Bear (24 Jun 2012)

I've also been making the lower drawers.
All parts cut and rebates made on the table saw.






Glued and nailed






Then fitted on full extension runners from Axminster






Thats all for now

Mark


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## The Bear (29 Jun 2012)

Parts cut for the small bit drawers






Basically 3/4 inch ply with through holes for the bit shanks. 1/4 inch ply for the bottom to stop them falling through. There will be 3 drawers for 1/2 inch bits, 2 for 1/4 inch and 1 for 8mm.


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## The Bear (29 Jun 2012)

Glueing the bases up






Glueing on the fronts


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## The Bear (29 Jun 2012)

Here you can see some of the smaller drawers fitted and the large bottom drawers have had a front attached












With regard to the little bit drawers, there is space for 4 per side. There will actually be 3 per side. The top space on the right will be where the switch is and the top drawer on the left will be a proper drawer for bits and bobs. I think this is the arrangement on the New Yankee table as well. I have made the small drawer for the top left but forgot to take any photos of it but its made exctly like the big bottom drawers.

Cheers

Mark


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## The Bear (13 Jul 2012)

I've still got plenty to do on the cabinet but have also made a start on the top. As said before, this is made of 2 layers of 18mm MRMDF. The full size template is useful here for marking out the screws and making sure they aren't where I want to route for the insert or t tracks.






Lots of glue spread out (probably too much) then screwed together






I trimmed the top slightly at this point in case the two pieces were not exactly lined up.

I then wrapped the edge in oak






The mitres are straight off the table saw






Finally just eased the sharp corners off






At this point I took my full size paper template for the top and layed it on. I then used a pencil and poked a hole through it everywhere there is a screw. This means when it is covered in laminate I still know where every screw is. Just need to know which is the front/back, which I have marked as its only symetrical left to right.

Mark


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## The Bear (13 Jul 2012)

I bought this a couple of years ago. Its 10 by 4 feet so a bit awkward.











Ive read so many ways to cut this. I went simple and marked the pieces I wanted then cut oversize. I just used a normal stanley knife blade to repeatedly score the lines against a straight edge. When I was confident I was most of the way through ( and indeed was through in some places) I carefully snapped it against a straight edge. It knackers the blade but as they are so cheap it doesnt matter.

I then used contact adhesive to stick it top and bottom of the top. I'd not used it before and was quite apprehensive. There are no photos of the glue up as its too messy and need to work fairly quick. I good tip is to masking tape the edges to keep them clean. Top and bottom done together. 






I then trimmed the excess off with a flush trimmer in the router and then knocked the corner off with a 45 degree chamfer bit.

Hope this is interesting 

Mark


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## jetsetwilly (18 Jul 2012)

It certainly is! Thanks for taking the time to post this, very thorough, and great pics.


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## Jamesc (19 Jul 2012)

Yes keep them coming, I am enjoying this WIP

James


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## The Bear (19 Jul 2012)

Thanks for the support guys.

A couple of pictures that show what I've previously explained in writting.

The laminate of the top trimmed back to the edging and the corner knocked off with a 45 degree bit






The small drawers in place showing the top left hand drawer for bits and bobs as opposed to router bits











I now need to find some handles for the drawers. Oak knobs spring to mind, anyone got any other ideas??


Mark


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## jetsetwilly (7 Aug 2012)

I guess I might have routed pulls into the fronts to keep it flush, like the drawers in the back of one of your pics, but i have a bad habit of knocking off anything that sticks out


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## The Bear (7 Aug 2012)

Been meaning to post this for a while but been very busy and watching too much Olympics. I'ce been doing some work on the electrics. I started with one of these






I then ttok it out of the back box and cut a ply face to hold it where the top right drawer would go






Will look like this






Its going to sit against a couple of plastic blocks 






Mark


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## The Bear (7 Aug 2012)

Starting to wire it, involves another piece of ply to box in the back of the switch. Used the cable glands off the original plastic box to attack the wires

Inside






Back






Connecting the switch up






Rear of switch boxed in






Output goes to a socket inside the table where the router will be plugged in. Decided not to hard wire it in case I ever need to take it out and use hand held. Other wire goes to plug and wall socket.











All seems to work fine

Mark


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## Tierney (9 Aug 2012)

Really good WIP, watching with interest.

DT


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## The Bear (20 Sep 2012)

I'm still building this but progress has slowed significantly due to holidays, work, other projects and watching too much olympics. I am still trying to do bits here and there though.

I've cut the hole for the plate as follows. The plate is from Rockler and for the big Triton. 

First, the plate is placed on a piece of MDF and smaller pieces stuck around it using double sided tape







I then used a bearing guided flush trimmer to cut the template through











Guides removed to give the finished templates.











Mark


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## The Bear (20 Sep 2012)

Its then just a case of clampingit to the top and router the hole











I then realised I had routed too much of the corners away and had to stick a bit back on, doh  

Bare MDF sealed with paint






i have fogotten to take a photo of the plate in the top

Mark


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## Eric The Viking (23 Sep 2012)

I'm making notes 

Thanks for taking the trouble to document this - it's really useful, and it's looking good too.

E.


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## The Bear (25 Sep 2012)

Thanks Eric
Progress has slowed but still continues, I have a few updates and will post when I have time

Mark


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## The Bear (3 Nov 2012)

The worlds slowest router table build has been continuing.
Next job was to continue to work on the top, router out for the t tracks, using a couple of guides. I had made the guides previously and they are slightly too short for the top, so i just routed a bit then slid the along and it turned out fine.











You will see there is one track along the long side for clamping down featherboards etc. Then there are 2 stopped tracks which the fence will clamp down to.

Then just cutting the tracks to length, rounding off the ends of the short tracks with a file and fixing in

















Mark


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## The Bear (3 Nov 2012)

Couple of other bits and bobs done

Blocks screwed to the underside of the top to keep it in place






This picture shows my original attempt at routing the hole for the plate, complete cock up.


You might have spotted that behind the section in the base where the router hangs and behind the small drawers is a space. This is where my extraction piping will go. I've got an idea on how the piping will work but still not completely sorted yet. Anyway the back propper needs to go on over this space. It will have a removable panel to get at the pipes easily and also change it about if its not working very well.

Panel jigsawed out and then trimmed straight with the router and guide rail











Corners chiseled out square 






The inner edge had a thin strip of oak stuck on then it was screwed to the back of the cabinet. Sorry the photo is a bit close up, I'll take one from further back another time. You can also see a triangle of wood stuck on the inside across the corner which will support the back panel.






The insert I jigsawed out was then squared on the table saw






The insert also then had a thin edge of oak applied and a couple of blocks screwed on. These will sit inside the back frame to hold it in place and I'll just screw a toggle to th etop to hold the whole thing in place







Mark


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## The Bear (3 Nov 2012)

Other thing done was a full size drawing of the fence, which I needed to do in order to know where to route the t tracks.






I've made good progress on the fence and will post some pictures soon

Mark


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## The Bear (4 Mar 2013)

Ok well the next set of pictures haven't come that soon, but they are hear now. Following on from the fence plans I cut all the pieces, cut slots, drilled holes etc.
I am making a rather over complicated fence based on the basic new yankee design but also incorporating the micro adjustment Steve M has published somewhere in the past.


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## The Bear (4 Mar 2013)

The lower base had some runners attached to slide in the t track, and a couple of guide blocks attached to the top











Above you can see how it sits on the table top.


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## The Bear (4 Mar 2013)

The bolts through the blocks will clamp the lower base to the table top
The bolts outside these will allow the upper base to slide independently of the lower when using the micro adjust, then lock it all together agin


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## The Bear (4 Mar 2013)

The upper base and fence screwed and glued and support blocks added


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## The Bear (4 Mar 2013)

Next the 3 pieces cut for the front of the fence and laminated. 2 adjustable fence cheeks and a fixed top piece with t track for feather boards etc.


























Did have one minor problem with chipping the corner of the laminate. Sods law its on the front.


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## The Bear (4 Mar 2013)

The top piece is screwed to the fence from behind






The sliding cheeks run on t bolts with large knobs on the back


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## The Bear (4 Mar 2013)

This is what it looks like at the back






2 knobs to release and tighten eack fence cheek

2 knobs to clamp down the bases, one does the lower base to the table, one releases the upper base when using the micro adjuster.


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## The Bear (4 Mar 2013)

The micro adjuster pieces cut. Theory is that one turn of the bolt produces 1mm of travel. One part is fastened to each base and can be slid over each other by turning the bolt.






Nut embedded in the middle






Put together






Each half fastened to each of the bases.






And the bristol lever glued on with thread lock






To operate, the lower base is slackened off and the bristol lever turned the appropriate amount, base locked down again and away you go. I'm rather pleased how this has turned out. I took a long time getting the pieces cut right and it moves nice and smoothly and both bases remain square to each other.


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## The Bear (4 Mar 2013)

Theres not that much more to do. I've cut the door pieces already. Main thing left is the dust extraction. I've been putting that off as I need to sort my workshop dust extraction generally. Other than that just a few bits and bobs.

Thanks for looking

Mark


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## andersonec (4 Mar 2013)

Mark, I see you are fitting a door, you were advised at the start not to fit a door as it would not allow air flow but if you look at it, air will be allowed in around the cutter and also sucked down by the fan in the router also the door will not be a tight fit, fitting a door is to be recommended because the reduction in noise alone is tremendous. If you need a bit of perspex for the door pm me and for the cost of the postage I will cut you a piece.

Andy


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## The Bear (4 Mar 2013)

Andy that's very generous but I've already bought a piece off eBay . Thanks anyway
I had been wondering about putting vents in the Perspex. 

Mark


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## Shultzy (5 Mar 2013)

Mark, if you look at my router build I've made a door with a perspex front and I cut 3 holes at the bottom to aid the air draft. The door has a couple of dowels at the bottom and a magnet at the top which make it easier to open. Inside, covering the dust hole, is a cover that can be adjusted to regulate the extraction between the upper and lower pipes.


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## The Bear (6 Mar 2013)

Yes I was going to cut holes like that in the Perspex. How did you decide how big to make them or is it a bit of a guess?

I like the idea of being able to close up the pipe to the box to allow more suck to the fence, good idea

Mark


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## Eric The Viking (6 Mar 2013)

You could just contrive a shutter for the holes in the door - it would have much the same effect.

It's looking really good, by the way.

E.


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## The Bear (6 Mar 2013)

Would it? Wouldn't I need to cut the air leaving the router box rather than it entering it to increase the suck from the fence?

Extraction is a bit of a dark art to me.

Thanks for the positive comments

Mark


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## andersonec (6 Mar 2013)

Mark, you could also cut some holes in the back panel of the router chamber instead of the perspex, it will still allow air to flow through, half a dozen 25mm holes across the top would be sufficient I reckon.

I find that when cutting on the edge of a piece of timber the extractor pipe only needs to be attached to the fence, when cutting channels or slots etc. the cutter is covered with your timber and the chippings cannot be extracted through the fence hence the extractor only needs to be attached to the router box, Unless the extractor is to be permanently attached, I simply fit the extractor pipe to whichever suits the job to be carried out.

With the amount of air entering the router box, the extractor will not take out all the shavings, what it will do though is extract the fine dust which is what does the damage to the router bearings, you will have to stick the hose in there every so often and clean it out.

Andy


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## inkyblue (23 Mar 2013)

Good job Mark, really nice table


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## Shultzy (27 Mar 2013)

The Bear":27s8ypja said:


> Yes I was going to cut holes like that in the Perspex. How did you decide how big to make them or is it a bit of a guess?
> 
> I like the idea of being able to close up the pipe to the box to allow more suck to the fence, good idea
> 
> Mark


Mark, I just used a 25mm bit. I cut the three holes as a guess and it worked. You could cut two and see if that works. To be truthful one hole might work, I not sure how to tell if its not working properly.


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## The Bear (28 Mar 2013)

that'll be the dark art I previously refered to!  

Mark


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## Eric The Viking (3 Apr 2013)

The rate of flow depends on the cross-sectional area of the _narrowest_ part of the pipe.

The main 4" pipe has a CSA of 12.6 sq.in. If you have a 2.5" pipe, that's around 5sq.in. Your 25mm holes are about 0.8sq.in., each.

So, to balance the flow top and bottom, you'll need 6 holes, approx. That'll give you equal suck, but may not be what you want, and your requirements will change depending on the job. So, a couple more holes than that, and a shutter, ought to give you control, like a blast gate.

I'm building a table too, this year, and I intend to take the fence hose into the router box at the bottom, in one corner, with the main extract from t'other bottom corner. That should scavenge the box well, too, but it won't let me balance the suction - I'm hoping it won't be needed.

I'm also going to use Steve Msakery's idea of an extra extract hole in the router plate, for dadoing and grooving.

HTH, E.


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## The Bear (20 Nov 2013)

Anyone remember this thread? Well I have finally put the finishing touches to it despite thinking I might never get there. So here's what I did to get it finished. 

Router plate levelled and screwed on, door finished and fitted, finger pulls routed into the drawer fronts and locking casters on

Router attached though I have since turned it round from when the pic was taken

On the photo of the back you'll see the back cover fitted and the extraction port for the fence extraction screwed on. Only screwed so I can change it if I tinker with the extraction set up


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## The Bear (20 Nov 2013)

I've tried the fence extraction while using a grooved and it works well

For the under table extraction I've decided to not try and extract from the whole box as I've never seen a set up that works really well. The triton has a plastic shroud around the bit with an extraction port. This is threaded for the triton hose. I've attached a pipe to that and out the back of the main box to catch as much waste near the bit as possible. On the other end on the pipe I've made wooden fitting thT the pipe is a friction fit into. This screws onto the inside side wall lining up with a hole in the carcas that fits my extractor pipe. Which all makes for a nice clean slim arrangement with no external pipes to get knocked


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## The Bear (20 Nov 2013)

I've tried this for cutters that cut a groove under the work piece and it works quite well. Not perfect but better than trying to extract the whole router enclosure. It will need an occasional Hoover out as well. Ive considered Steve M's idea of drilling a hole in the plate to the left of the cutter but not sure it will improve what I'm doing. I'm going to go like I am at the moment and tinker if I feel the need in future. I have purposely made sure I can change the extraction around by not gluing anything down and having the rear void to try different pipe arrangements

I've also done some safety stuff. A couple of featherboards, and. Guard that can be used with or without the featherboards
And a push stick with a v groove that can apply pressure onto the table and fence at the same time. A small block at the back hooks the end of the work piece


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## The Bear (20 Nov 2013)

Well that's it!!!! (Apart from the magnetic catch I need to put on the door but let's forget that for a mo. 

Hope you enjoyed the build, sorry for the pace. 

Mark


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