# oak table



## stix (30 Nov 2006)

I have just made a small side table in oak and I'm now about to apply the finish to it. The table has been sanded 150g & 240g and I have a tin of matt varnish waiting to be applied.

Questions:

1 - Do I need to sand to a finer grit before I apply the varnish?

2 - Is there anything else I should apply before the varnish?

3 - How many coats of varnish should I apply and what grade should I sand between coats?


I'm a complete newbie when it come to hardwoods so your tips & advice are much appreciated  

Cheers
Steve


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## jasonB (30 Nov 2006)

I think most members would rather go for an oil or wax finish.

Having said that is your varnish oil or waterbased, let us know then we can suggest the best method of application.

Jason


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## stix (30 Nov 2006)

Thanks Jason

I tend to use oil or wax on most of the stuff I do but the reason I've gone for varnish on this one is to try and match the finish on the existing furniture that my parents have.

I have Ronseal diamond hard clear matt varnish, which I think is water based.


Steve


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## jasonB (30 Nov 2006)

The first coat being waterbased will tend to raise the grain, therefore this should be sanded back with 240g.

I would then apply another two coats sanding each with 320g before the final coat is applied.

Jason


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## houtslager (30 Nov 2006)

are you staining the table ?


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## RogerM (30 Nov 2006)

Steve - I have just used * Langlow Patina * for the first time on a *Hall Table in Oak* and found it very easy to apply and having tested a piece with hot coffee cups and a sherry glass with a small spillage underneath, it seems to be virtually bomb-proof. A good compromise between the oil advocated elsewhere and varnish perhaps?


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## stix (1 Dec 2006)

HS - No the table is not being stained. It's natural colour is a good match to the existing furniture but I need to give it some protection from drinks glasses and hot cups, etc.


Roger - Your hall table looks great  . The Langlow Patina certainly seems like it could be what I'm looking for. I've only ever used wax or danish oil on previous projects but I didn't think either of them would be durable enough for this table. Does the Langlow Patina leave a matt finish?


Steve


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## RogerM (1 Dec 2006)

Steve - Patina is not matt - more of a satin finish. 2 coats gives a satin/oil appearance, but more than that starts to look a bit like varnish. Very durable tho'. Have a search on this forum for others opinions - that's what decided me on it and I haven't regretted it.


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## stix (1 Dec 2006)

Thanks Roger

Yes, patina certainly looks like a popular product amongst the forum members. I'm going to give it a go.

It took me a took me a while to find a local supplier but I have managed to find somewhere that stocks it - Does £8.95 sound about right for a 320g tin?

Are there any tips for the application of patina? Any sanding required between coats?

Cheers
Steve


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## RogerM (2 Dec 2006)

Steve - I found that to begin with, no matter how little I put on the cloth, I should have put on less! Put it on very thinly, and I mean REALLY THINLY! I found 2 coats was all that was needed. I just went over the surface with a soft brush attachd to our vacuum cleaner to start with, and then just a quick dust off with a duster before applying the second coat. It doesn't "nib" like varnish so no need to sand it between coats IMHO.

But hey! I'm no expert - I've only used it once. Others are, I am sure, more qualified to advise!


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## joekid (12 Dec 2006)

i always find varnishes thinned down 50/50 even more spirits to get a thinner finish(many coats)with white spirits,firstly wipe the piece to be treated with a sheet type cotton cloth/dont swipe the cotton sheets though/dont use a yellow duster,/wipe the area with a (damped with spirits)cloth ,not soaked this will highlight the area and show any un finished bits,let it dry wire wool it finest wire wool ,i then rub a little spirits onto a cloth rub my hands with it then apply the varnish mix/after another good stir by hand,dipping only my finger tips working it in small areas let the whole finished piece dry over night wool lightly and repeat,you can do this lots of times depending how glazed and smooth you want it//this is by no means quick ,or easy,but works beutifully on wood veneered speakers,theres lots of easier ways,for a similar finish,i like the hands on quality.


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