# Router Table WIP



## motownmartin

I have been wanting to make a Router Table/Station since March when I first started to dabble in the wonderful World of Woodwork.

Back in May I found this Forum, which I might add, has been fantastic in helping me improve my skills, credit goes to all who have taken time to answer questions and give help to all those that need it. 

I remember putting a request out in one of the threads for some plans and Lord Nibbo (Dave Beckett) kindly got in touch and sent me his, many thanks Dave.

Now is the time to have a go at making the Table, I want to make the Cabinet as it shows on the plans but make a larger top out of Kitchen worktop, I want it to incorporate the INCRA 25" LS SUPER SYSTEM.

You might be thinking why spend £350 on a piece of Alluminiun when you can make your own jigs for a few quid, well I have thought about this and I could end up with a few dozen jigs which just takes up a lot of space in the workshop.

I will no doubt need your input and advice as I go along, so don't hold back and let me know the best ways to do things and put me right where I have gone wrong.

I shall post an update after Dinner on how far far i've got.

All the best

Martin


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## motownmartin

I've had me snap :roll: 

On Saturday Afternoon I had a trip to our local B&Q to buy some Plywood

Problem number 1
They only sell metric and plans are imperial, so I got 18mm for 3/4", 12mm for 1/2" and 6mm for 1/4" it just means I have to be careful cutting the dado's.

Problem number 2
How do I fit them into the car, do I buy a roofrack, Nah, I get the B&Q cutter man to cut them into 4' x 3' and 4' x 2' job done.

Problem number 3
when cutting it all on Sunday no problem with the 18mm or the 12mm but when I cut the 6mm there wasn't enough (i had 2 quarter sheets), luckily enough I had the remnants of an Axminster crate which my new saw came in, the only trouble is that it's 1/4", Ok I shouldn't complain cuz it's the right size, I just have to remember to make that how the plan says, trouble is i'm a bit forgetful :? 

I managed to get all the ply cut to size, I hope, also managed to smooth the edges with sandpaper and only get one splinter  

Thats as far as I could go, I had no metric router cutters  hopefully get back to it next weekend.

Here's a pic of the cut ply, 66 pcs


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## engineer one

interesting.
you might care to check out rocklerin the states at this time, they seem to be having another sale, and they are doing some offers on incra stuff 
if you have not yet ordered, it might be worth checking the web site

www.rockler. (something or other)

paul :wink:


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## DomValente

Make sure the top you make is not too big as it may make the unit unstable.

Dom


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## motownmartin

Paul, I checked out rockler.com and unfortunately they don't have what i want, woodpeckers have it for $399 but shipping is $262, if you buy 2 the shipping is $382 and 3 would cost $452 and so on. I have contacted Eagle America and am waiting for their shipping cost.

It would pay for us to bulk buy from the states, so any body out there want to buy from Woodpeckers  

Dom, I don't think there's much chance of this Table tipping over with 1 1/2 8x4 sheets of 3/4" Birch ply and 1 8x4 1/2" ply in the carcase, the oversize table is just to support the Incra system, if does look a bit wobbly I will look at lengthening the base.

Thanks 

Martin


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## engineer one

ok martin, just thought you might find it.

what dom was interested in is whether the table might overlap the base by so much that it would be unstable.also remember, you have to be able to reach the cutter, and with narrow wood that might be difficult :? 

paul :wink:


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## motownmartin

engineer one":2hur125q said:


> ok martin, just thought you might find it.
> 
> what dom was interested in is whether the table might overlap the base by so much that it would be unstable.also remember, you have to be able to reach the cutter, and with narrow wood that might be difficult :?
> 
> paul :wink:


The top will protrude at the back of the table by about 18" to 20" taking hardly any extra weight.


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## engineer one

so why have it if it does not carry any weight :twisted: 

i would have thought there was some value in reducing it to just surrounding the incra jig

paul :wink:


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## motownmartin

I think I know what you mean :? do you mean just have enough for the jig to sit on :?: My idea was for the fence to travel back the full 25" and still have the full width of the table, if you know what I mean, I would do a sketch if I knew how


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## engineer one

i know what you are saying martin, it is just well, are you going to use it??

from a personal point of view, i do not use a router table too much, but when i see those designs in mags or on tv programmes, i do not understand why the cutter is so near the front of the table. 

part i guess is the ability to get to the cutters but since it is very difficult to get really wide natural boards in the uk, i am not sure why one needs all this room on the table. since you do not use the back of the table why have it??

have you thought of using the incra in a different way so that you do not have the rear overhang??

paul :wink:


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## motownmartin

Paul, thanks for coming back at me with all why's, it certainly gets me thinking, maybe I don't need one that big but the likelyhood is that i will regret it if I don't.

I have a router table and use it on most jobs, I would like to use this one i'm making for Dovetails, Box joints, Finger joints, Raised panels, Rabbeting and in some cases Dado's amongst other things like shaping.

I think the only way not to have the overhang would be to get the ultra lite 12 1/2" jig, that may be an option.

Someone I work with has one of these 25" Incra's and says that if it ever got damaged he would definately get another one, he says it's the best bit of kit he has ever purchased and he has a lot of impressive kit.

Many thanks

Martin

A long way to go and a lot of thinking to be done


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## engineer one

look mate, you know what you are going to do, but i have a space about 12 feet by 10, and with my work bench, the table saw on a base, and the planer thicknesser, plus wood and all the other detritus including my dw 708, we seem to accumulate, i often have no room left.

you would rarely use dovetails on man made boards, and if like me you restrict your makings to about 4feet high or deep, then think that you will have to allow a space of around 8 feet when you are using it.

it is like using my 708 dewalt.i had hoped it would work on the end of the work bench, but the sweep is too wide, so i have to make some more 
space for it. or maybe i need to rob the bank, and buy a festo sawlike waka :lol: :? 

it is easy to get carried away with what you might build rather than what you will actually be able to get round to building. 

paul :wink:


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## Keith Smith

Martin, I've just made a router table and used just the Incra LS Positioner and made my own fence for it. I've fitted the LS to the right hand rear and it stretches across the table so I don't have to have a deep table. This means I work front to back. I've also made an additional fence that fits across the table for when I want to router longer lengths.

This is unfortunately destined for a magazine article, so I can't say too much more on the open forum, but the picture may give you food for thought. PM me if you want.

Keith


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## motownmartin

That's excellent Keith, I had not thought about doing it this way, it's certainly an option thats gone to the top of the list  

Thanks for posting the photo

Martin


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## Con Owen

Hi Martin
I was in WHSmiths today and there was a test of and Incra system with a wonderfence (£299) in a magazine, I believe it was titled Router and Power ...... Interestingly there were two table sizes available, one was IIRC 46'' wide and the other 36''. The recommendation by the reviewer was to go for the smaller version.
Regards
Con


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## motownmartin

Con Owen":16s2jd7c said:


> Hi Martin
> I was in WHSmiths today and there was a test of and Incra system with a wonderfence (£299) in a magazine, I believe it was titled Router and Power ...... Interestingly there were two table sizes available, one was IIRC 46'' wide and the other 36''. The recommendation by the reviewer was to go for the smaller version.
> Regards
> Con


Thanks for the info Con, trouble is that I have just ordered the 25" super system,  . Were those sizes refering to the table size :?: 

I think I am going to struggle fitting it all into the workshop, but hey I like a challenge  

Martin


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## Mike.C

> motownmartin,
> 
> woodpeckers have it for $399 but shipping is $262



Martin ask woodpeckers for a quote to ship your order by USPS. The shipping charge you were given on their web site is with UPS and although they do not mention it, they will give you quotes from other companies.
On one of my orders UPS wanted $192 for standard shipping, but USPS only charged me $58 using their (3 to 5 days) Global Express Mail

Give Justin a shout [email protected] and he should be able to sort you out.

Cheers

Mike


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## motownmartin

Darn it, I wish I werent so impatient   

Thanks Mike


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## Con Owen

Hi Martin
Yes, it was the the table width. Best of luck with your table.
Regards
Con


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## motownmartin

I have spent a few Hours in the workshop today, the first job was to make the Dado's and rabbets in the carcase of the router table.
I tried to do the first rabbet on my cheap router table but it was a no go, as I came to the end of the board the rabbet became uneven as the fence was too short, I guess this is one of the reasons for making this table with an Incra Wonder fence. So I ended up doing everything by hand with a clamp on guide, what a difference, everything was spot on apart from one Dado being a 1/4" out (I had a sulk for about an Hour), this was because I had great difficulty trying to convert everything to metric  . It also means that I have to trim the drawers so that they will fit
I have also fitted the drawer cleats to the carcase sides, I done this with glue and brads.

This pic shows the uneven cut using the router table





Using the clamp on guide





Some of the carcase ready for assembly





So far, so good and learning lots.

Martin


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## motownmartin

I managed to get in the workshop for a couple of hours this morning and assembled most of the carcase.
The plans called for biscuits to join the internal boards to the back but I wasn't sure how to get it accurate enough, in the end I opted for screws and glue.
If anyone could explain how to do this I would be grateful, although it's too late to do it on this job.
Some of the boards were slightly twisted but it seemed ok once I got the clamps on, the squareness was 2mm out across diagonal at the front, I was fairly happy with that.

The next Job is the drawers and I shall admit to being a little nervous, they seem to be just glued, I think I need some help with them ](*,) (hammer) #-o [-o< 

The job up to date


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## engineer one

looks good martin, 

simplest way to ensure that things are lined up is to use a spacer cut to the width or length that you need. in my case i would make a spacer that is the actual width between the two uprights, because the base of my 
biscuit joiner is only 18mm deep, so it is easy :lol: 

as for the drawers you could always make them slightly narrow, and
then pack out.

paul :wink:


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## motownmartin

engineer one":27slush0 said:


> looks good martin,
> 
> simplest way to ensure that things are lined up is to use a spacer cut to the width or length that you need. in my case i would make a spacer that is the actual width between the two uprights, because the base of my
> biscuit joiner is only 18mm deep, so it is easy :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> paul :wink:



I think I understand, i'll have to have a go on some scrap.

What worries me about the drawers is that they are only glued, which is fine for the back but the front is a bit suss, i'm not keen on putting in brads at an angle, my nail gun is not the best bit of kit, and I don't want to nail from the front, I suppose I can make the drawer as a box then screw the front on, or use some brackets to strengthen them :? 

Thanks Paul

Martin


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## mailee

You could do with making a jig like this martin:




It uses the router base as the guide and the shelf is placed in between the two rails and then it is slid and clamped onto them to give a perfect 'Dado' every time. :wink:


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## motownmartin

You're not wrong Mailee, looks the bees knees and one day I will make one.

Thanks

Martin


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## OLD

I did the draws last and used the router table to make the joints etc and had seperate front plates to make lineing up easy.


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## motownmartin

OLD":6vpe3v1b said:


> I did the draws last and used the router table to make the joints etc and had seperate front plates to make lineing up easy.


Sounds like a plan  does that include the bit drawers :?: 

Thanks OLD

Martin


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## paulm

motownmartin":3al57d3f said:


> OLD":3al57d3f said:
> 
> 
> 
> I did the draws last and used the router table to make the joints etc and had seperate front plates to make lineing up easy.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a plan  does that include the bit drawers :?:
> 
> Thanks OLD
> 
> Martin
Click to expand...


Thats what I did with mine also Martin, not fine cabinetmaking but more than adequate for this application.

Did the same for the normal drawers and likewise for the bit drawers, although the latter weren't box construction, just a base board with front and back uprights.

Used some hot melt glue (very small amount) just to hold the fronts in position while I then cramped them more firmly and then screwed through from the inside of the drawers for the final fixing.

If you use some shims for spacing the fronts you get a very neat finish with everything lined up evenly.

Looking forwards to seeing some more pics.

Cheers, Paul.


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## motownmartin

I think I might just chance it andhope they look square, if they don't it will be a lesson learnt.
Talking about lessons learnt, I discovered that I have made a bit of a cock-up   , I tried sliding in one of the bit drawers (after I took a few hours drilling them all) and it was very sloppy, I thought this can't be right, so I measured it and found that the compartment was 1/4" too wide, oh bum I thought, I couldn't take it out because it fit in the dado's, so I will build up the width of the base and re-cut the fronts.
That was a good lesson learnt, I won't be converting imperial to metric without my reading glasses again :lol: :lol: 

Paul, there will be more pics and more cock-ups, even pics of cock-ups  

Martin


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## motownmartin

When I get round to making the table top, I am going to buy one of the inserts, which one :?: are there different ones for different routers :?: do they come with a template :?: where is the best place to get one from :?: I will be getting a Triton TRB001, probably from Buck & Ryan.
Help please
TIA

Martin


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## engineer one

try the trend plate

paul :wink:


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## motownmartin

engineer one":tm69az74 said:


> try the trend plate
> 
> paul :wink:



Crikey :shock: , thats a bit pricey  , me thinks you're having a laugh :lol:


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## engineer one

well compared with all the wood, and the price of the triton, i' not so sure :twisted: :roll: 

i'm sure that aldee will have a suggestion too.

paul :wink:


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## motownmartin

I know, it's costing a fortune but it will be worth it, thats if I finish it as the Bank account is looking a bit sorry  good job i'm not making the whole top out of Phenolic :shock: 

Martin


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## Paul Chapman

motownmartin":hm7yzm8h said:


> When I get round to making the table top, I am going to buy one of the inserts, which one :?:



Martin, there has been lots of discussion on here about router table inserts. Many of the popular inserts are slightly crowned (not dead flat). Some people say this is not a problem, others (me included) think it's a daft idea. Steve Maskery found a very good insert that is flat. Some of the best ones are quite expensive, unfortunately. Might be an idea to do a search and look at the previous discussions before making up your mind which one to get.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## motownmartin

I mentioned that I had made a cock up with the bit drawer compartment width.
Well I got round it by adding a piece of ply to either side of the drawer using brads and glue.





Then I completed all the bit drawers









Thats it till next Monday, starting Night shifts Tomorrow  

Martin


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## Lord Nibbo

Hi Martin, just got back from forced extended holiday :lol: So this is my first post... Your table is looking very good so far =D> One question though, have you sized the top yet? I ask because in my opinion it does not over lap the top enough for clamping things like home made feather boards to the top, if I were to make another I would add another two inches to the length and another one inch in the front overhang.


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## motownmartin

Lord Nibbo":1e6flrts said:


> Hi Martin, just got back from forced extended holiday :lol: So this is my first post... Your table is looking very good so far =D> One question though, have you sized the top yet? I ask because in my opinion it does not over lap the top enough for clamping things like home made feather boards to the top, if I were to make another I would add another two inches to the length and another one inch in the front overhang.



Hello Dave, fortunately I have not cut the top yet although I did get hold of a piece of worktop 4' x 3' but it's only 1" thick and it's bowed, it looks like i will have to purchase another piece of 30 or 40mm.

I was planning to make an extra large top to accommodate the 25" incra positioner but had second thoughts and cancelled it, so I might have to get the 17" instead which means the top has to be at least 43" long  so it's up in the air at the moment but I will definitely take on board your advice and add an inch on the front.

I have thought about hingeing the back part of the table top but am unsure about how rigid it would be, to be honest there would be no point fitting a precision bit of kit if it were able to move just slightly, I am open to suggestions :? 

I hope your Holiday went ok, I would imagine it did from how you said FORCED EXTENDED :lol: at first glance I thought you may have had trouble with your boat.

All the best

Martin


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## Lord Nibbo

motownmartin":x0jak773 said:


> I hope your Holiday went ok, I would imagine it did from how you said FORCED EXTENDED :lol: at first glance I thought you may have had trouble with your boat.
> 
> All the best
> 
> Martin



Nothing wrong with the boat, just the [email protected]@dy weather :lol:


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## Nigel

Hi Martin 
Have you thought about the Woodworkers Workshop for your router table parts and Incra Jig as you may find a saving on the carriage charges from USA
http://www.woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/#top

No affiliation just a satisfied customer

Nigel


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## motownmartin

Nigel":v7cyw2mv said:


> Hi Martin
> Have you thought about the Woodworkers Workshop for your router table parts and Incra Jig as you may find a saving on the carriage charges from USA
> http://www.woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/#top
> 
> No affiliation just a satisfied customer
> 
> Nigel


Hi Nigel, I got in touch with Roger at Woodworkers Workshop last week, he was very helpful and sent me the DVD on all the incra stuff, when I buy, it will be from them unless someone points me to a cheaper source.

Thanks

Martin


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## motownmartin

Where does everyone get their dust extraction pipe and fittings from, I know about Axminster and Rutlands, is there anywhere else? I'm struggling to get exactly what I had in mind, there are some parts at Axminster and some at Rutlands but it would be better f I could get it all from one place.

TIA

Martin


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## OLD

http://www.cclveloduct.com/
Cheaper and always helpfull ask for a discount.


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## motownmartin

Thanks OLD, thats a handy place to know, especially if I were to do my whole workshop, but for the moment I just wanted a few fittings to do this Router Table.

All the best

Martin


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## Gary

Martin

Have you tried the Record range?

http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/browse.php/se ... 43/level/4


Gary


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## motownmartin

Hi Gary
I have looked at the Record fittings but they don't seem to do 2 1/2" which is the size that fits the incra positioner,.

It looks like I will have to buy some parts from Axminster and some from rutlands  .

Hope you had a good Holiday  

Martin


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## Lord Nibbo

All my extraction pipes are ordinary 2" kitchen waste pipes I got from our local builders merchants. 






I took the part I wanted to fit to with me to check what fitted. The 2" works perfectly, no blocking at all. :lol:


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## motownmartin

Now there's a good idea, had a look on screwfix but only have 32mm or 40mm, looks like a trip down to B&Q.

Talking about B&Q, my cheapo router (their own brand 1/4" 1020W) gave up this morning, it started to make a rattling sound there there was a smell of burning electrics, i've only had it 4 Months and can't find the receipt. A lesson learnt there, you only get what you pay for  

Martin


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## George_N

motownmartin":2cxz8dam said:


> Now there's a good idea, had a look on screwfix but only have 32mm or 40mm, looks like a trip down to B&Q.
> 
> Talking about B&Q, my cheapo router (their own brand 1/4" 1020W) gave up this morning, it started to make a rattling sound there there was a smell of burning electrics, i've only had it 4 Months and can't find the receipt. A lesson learnt there, you only get what you pay for
> 
> Martin



Martin, I'd still take it back. It is their own brand, so the can hardly deny you got it from them, can they. You probably won't get a cash refund without a reciept but you might get a credit towards something better...worth a try anyway.


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## engineer one

definately take it back, the credit note is worthwhile.

paul :wink:


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## motownmartin

Found it, the bloomin thing is going back tomorrow, think i'll take a refund and put it towards this project.

Got back in the workshop this morning and made the rest of the drawers, I reckon i'm going to have a lot of fun fitting them with the runners, there seems to be about 1/8" clearance, thats another mishap caused by metric materials and imperial measurements on the plan. I wouldn't recommend mixing the two, does anyone else have this problem or is it just me :?: 

Just a couple of pics to show what the drawers look like.

In pieces





Assembled





Martin


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## Gary

Martin,

Great holiday thanks. Would this be of any use to you before the price goes up or can you buy cheaper?


http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/LS25SYS

Gary


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## motownmartin

Gary":2gt0s8h4 said:


> Martin,
> 
> Great holiday thanks. Would this be of any use to you before the price goes up or can you buy cheaper?
> 
> 
> http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/LS25SYS
> 
> Gary



Hi Gary

It would have been once but after having a measure up in the workshop it was about 6 inches too long, going to go with the 17" version with the wonderfence but Rutlands don't supply that one  it will be purchased from woodworkers workshop.

Martin


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## motownmartin

Today I managed to fit the drawers and the trimming.

The drawers weren't as difficult as I thought they would be despite the fact that the carcase was out of square by about 5mm, I don't know how that happened, when I assembled the carcase I had to use some clamps diagonally but must have missed the front through lack of sash clamps, or I just forgot  probably in too much of a hurry.

The trimming was pretty straight forward, I used some Sapele from an old bookcase that my Mum threw out, I just had to rip it then put it through the thicknesser.
I just used glue and brads as it is just for the workshop, looks ok though, a blind man would be glad to see it :lol: 

The next job will be to finish the router compartment, maybe tomorrow.

A few pics of the progress












Sorry about the last photo being a little blurred, mind you it doesn't look out of square like that :lol: 

Martin


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## mailee

That's looking very nice Martin. I too built one on the same design and it has been a Godsend with all my router cutters to hand every time. :wink:


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## motownmartin

mailee":1wz84si0 said:


> That's looking very nice Martin. I too built one on the same design and it has been a Godsend with all my router cutters to hand every time. :wink:


I'm glad you said that mailee, I think it's going to be money well spent and well worth the effort.

By the way did you put holes in the door to help the airflow?

Martin


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## Gary

motownmartin":9q6ts80l said:


> I think it's going to be money well spent and well worth the effort.



Now for the new 1/2 router, disicions, desicions it's a tough life bing a woodworker.


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## mailee

I didn't put any holes in the door Martin. I have found it takes out most of the dust with my 1mm hose connected to the rear and the small extractor on the fence. :wink:


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## engineer one

1mm hose, now that is small :lol: 

paul :wink:


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## motownmartin

Gary":3ii3fcdn said:


> Now for the new 1/2 router, disicions, desicions it's a tough life bing a woodworker.



I ordered it this morning Gary, the Triton TRB001 £181 inc delivery, I suppose someone is going to tell me where I can buy it cheaper :x , it's taken me about 2 Months to decide :lol: 

Martin


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## motownmartin

engineer one":sqzxodes said:


> 1mm hose, now that is small :lol:
> 
> paul :wink:



I think i'll try a little larger than that, i'll leave the holes out for now as I have 2mm gap down the sides of the door.

Thanks mailee

Martin


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## Gary

motownmartin":1bok6ri8 said:


> I ordered it this morning Gary, the Triton TRB001 £181 inc delivery, I suppose someone is going to tell me where I can buy it cheaper :x , it's taken me about 2 Months to decide :lol:
> 
> Martin



My local B&Q for £75-00 probably part of their Great Triton Sell Off.


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## George_N

motownmartin":1n5gjgrx said:


> I ordered it this morning Gary, the Triton TRB001 £181 inc delivery, I suppose someone is going to tell me where I can buy it cheaper :x , it's taken me about 2 Months to decide :lol:
> 
> Martin



I'm sure you'll be delighted with the Triton, a lot of people reckon they are 'The' router for table use and £181 is a pretty good price. My local B&Q still wants £250 for the TRB001 and Triton Tools are asking £184.90.


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## motownmartin

Gary":1o3q74bi said:


> My local B&Q for £75-00 probably part of their Great Triton Sell Off.



Gary get down there NOW and i'll see you next Monday with an extra tenner. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I'll cancel my order.

Martin


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## motownmartin

George_N":3eba40jh said:


> I'm sure you'll be delighted with the Triton, a lot of people reckon they are 'The' router for table use and £181 is a pretty good price. My local B&Q still wants £250 for the TRB001 and Triton Tools are asking £184.90.



Buck & Ryan do it for £181.43 George, as far as I can gather it's ideal for Table use, lets hope so.

Martin


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## mailee

Oops! Sorry Martin, I did mean 100mm hose.  I suppose you had gathered that though. :lol:


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## Gary

motownmartin":13qakfqr said:


> Gary get down there NOW and i'll see you next Monday with an extra tenner. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I'll cancel my order.
> 
> Martin



Don't worry I got more than one :lol: I'll see you alright :wink: but that will mean one less for fleabay.


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## Anonymous

Gary":2de9nqb6 said:


> My local B&Q for £75-00 probably part of their Great Triton Sell Off.



We must have gone to the same store. I couldn't resist and felt the urge to buy one. Now that I have I'll have to build a table similar to Martins.

Jockey


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## motownmartin

Jockey":3dxms8yp said:


> Gary":3dxms8yp said:
> 
> 
> 
> My local B&Q for £75-00 probably part of their Great Triton Sell Off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We must have gone to the same store. I couldn't resist and felt the urge to buy one. Now that I have I'll have to build a table similar to Martins.
> 
> Jockey
Click to expand...


I hope you have plentyof money Jockey :lol: :lol: 

Martin


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## Anonymous

motownmartin":2sgvdvja said:


> I hope you have plentyof money Jockey :lol: :lol:
> 
> Martin



A hundred pounds saved on the router will be a good enough start for the table in my book.


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## NeilO

myB&Q still have them at £249.99.....
some people have all luck......

if it wasnt for bad luck , i`d have none at all 

BTW nice looking router table......Martin ( did I mention Blackmail :wink: )


----------



## Anonymous

NeilO":nfvorwqm said:


> myB&Q still have them at £249.99.....
> some people have all luck......
> 
> if it wasnt for bad luck , i`d have none at all



Not as much luck as the guy in front of me in the queue he bought six, obviously knows a bargain when he sees one. He must have either bought them for trade us or knew the true value to sell on. 

It wasn't you by any chance Gary? 

Jockey


----------



## NeilO

given the chance so would i have.......hell. bargains like that happen few and far between.....and if you couldnt get rid of them here , theres always fleabay...


----------



## Anonymous

My brother has managed to secure me three more. I don't need them but at that price I'd have been a fool not too. Just need to list them on ebay, what would member recommend a buy it now or set a reserve?

Jockey


----------



## Gary

Jockey":fbj2fuvq said:


> Not as much luck as the guy in front of me in the queue he bought six, obviously knows a bargain when he sees one. He must have either bought them for trade us or knew the true value to sell on.
> 
> It wasn't you by any chance Gary?
> 
> Jockey



It might have been :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I hope SWMBO doesn't find out. Well not until I've moved one or two.

Jockey I see you got yourself some more too. 

Gary


----------



## Anonymous

Gary

I've sent you a PM, there seems little point is competing against each other for sales if we both go the ebay route. List too many and we both could end up out of pocket.

Jockey


----------



## Anonymous

PM's sent out however a few appear to be sitting in my outbox. To those who's mail is delayed sorry I have replied. Email may have been quicker. 

Thanks 

Jockey. 

PS I also have been informed of the next store in the Midlands to reduce. I'll post more when I obtain further stocks.


----------



## Gary

Jockey":1cmqukju said:


> I also have been informed of the next store in the Midlands to reduce. I'll post more when I obtain further stocks.




Not if I get there first you won't and the other 1000 forum members. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## motownmartin

It looks as though i'll be making more Tables then :shock:


----------



## motownmartin

Progress with the Router Table has been halted for a while as I was taken ill last week and it will be a couple of weeks before I am able to do any physical work  , by the time I am able it's off to Mallorca for a couple of weeks  

Latest things that have been completed, all the drawers and door are finished, I have acquired an old table top, which is big enough in table area but probably not thick enough as it's only 1", but can join a bit of 1/2" MDF underneath if I have to, have received my new Triton Router and some of the parts for the dust extraction.
I still have not sorted the Incra positioner and the Table insert, should know more about that this week.

Here's a pic to show latest.






Martin


----------



## Mike.C

Excellent Martin, its coming along nicely. 

I agree that the top needs to be a bit thicker.

Keep up the good work.

Cheers

Mike


----------



## motownmartin

Mike.C":3val76vj said:


> Excellent Martin, its coming along nicely.
> 
> I agree that the top needs to be a bit thicker.
> 
> Keep up the good work.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Mike


Thanks Mike, if I were to put some MDF on the underside would I just glue it :?:


----------



## Gary

Martin

What is the table top made of? I would presume that it is either blockboard or some solid wood with a melamine type top. It should be ok to glue the MDF to the table top however this will pose one question, If you were to apply a veneer to MDF is it recommended that you apply it to both surfaces to prevent any sagging with the extra weight on one side. Does this still apply given the thickness of the top? I don't really know, but someone will be able to answer that. It would be a shame to spoil all that good work.

My table top is only 3/4" thick and I have no problems with it. Mind you it is Phenolic so it should not sag. Given the fact you're going for an Incra fence I don't know why you never considered this.

Gary


----------



## Lord Nibbo

motownmartin":21gfxlvu said:


> Mike.C":21gfxlvu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent Martin, its coming along nicely.
> 
> I agree that the top needs to be a bit thicker.
> 
> Keep up the good work.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Mike, if I were to put some MDF on the underside would I just glue it :?:
Click to expand...


From memory of the plans the top is one sheet of 18mm ply and one sheet of 18mm mdf. I screwed and glued but marked out on the underside where I would be cutting or routing to make sure no screws were placed in the way.


----------



## motownmartin

Gary":1mep6bts said:


> Martin
> 
> What is the table top made of? I would presume that it is either blockboard or some solid wood with a melamine type top. It should be ok to glue the MDF to the table top however this will pose one question, If you were to apply a veneer to MDF is it recommended that you apply it to both surfaces to prevent any sagging with the extra weight on one side. Does this still apply given the thickness of the top? I don't really know, but someone will be able to answer that. It would be a shame to spoil all that good work.
> 
> My table top is only 3/4" thick and I have no problems with it. Mind you it is Phenolic so it should not sag. Given the fact you're going for an Incra fence I don't know why you never considered this.
> 
> Gary



Hi Gary

The top is made of chipboard, the same as a Kitchen worktop and seeing as it cost nothing I can always replace it with whatever I want at a later date.

I have considered a phonelic top but there are 2 reasons why I have not gone along this route is 1:- the cost (coffers are empty) 2:- I could not find anything wide enough.

I have still not made up my mind whether to make the top as one or to make the rear detachable or hinged for storage and space requirements, either way I will have to support the rear somehow, probably triangular plywood braces.

Maybe I could just beef it up in the middle section where the Router sits, the rest of it will be well supported by the carcase.

Thanks

Martin


----------



## motownmartin

Lord Nibbo":2vz7cz2a said:


> From memory of the plans the top is one sheet of 18mm ply and one sheet of 18mm mdf. I screwed and glued but marked out on the underside where I would be cutting or routing to make sure no screws were placed in the way.



Hi Dave

The plans call for 3/4" and 1/2" MDF glued together.

Screws sound like a reasonable solution.

Thanks

Martin


----------



## Anonymous

Nice router, have you by chance been to B&Q? :wink: :wink: :wink:


----------



## Gary

Martin

Does the Mrs know what you're selling on ebay to finance this table?

Gary


----------



## motownmartin

:lol: :lol: :lol: They're for my Daughter, she's a student and failed to sell them at a car boot, so any offers are welcome, what did you have in mind, I can do you a deal  

Martin


----------



## Mike.C

> Martin,
> 
> Thanks Mike, if I were to put some MDF on the underside would I just glue it



Yes mate you could just glue it, or glue and screw it.

Or I might be able to spare half a sheet of 18mm MDF that you can have if you want it. I don't want anything for it but you will have to pay the p&p. 
I have no idea how much it will cost but if I cut it right down to the exact size for you, it should make things cheaper. Or is it pie in the sky and it will cost far to much to send it, what do you think?

Cheers

Mike


----------



## motownmartin

Hi Mike, thanks for the offer but I have it sorted and should be able to return to the workshop in a day or Two.

Martin


----------



## motownmartin

I have this old worktop which is bowed, is there any way of getting it back to its original flatness.

I am trying to flatten it by bending it in the other direction, do you think this will work?







Also managed to get some swivel wheels fixed


----------



## Gary

motownmartin":3snud25x said:


> I have this old worktop which is bowed, is there any way of getting it back to its original flatness.
> 
> I am trying to flatten it by bending it in the other direction, do you think this will work?



I doubt it.    But let us know anyway.


----------



## motownmartin

Gary":3bi7tabt said:


> motownmartin":3bi7tabt said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have this old worktop which is bowed, is there any way of getting it back to its original flatness.
> 
> I am trying to flatten it by bending it in the other direction, do you think this will work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I doubt it.    But let us know anyway.
Click to expand...


I tried it on Monday, when Itook the clamps off it looked great but then it creeped back, now I have put more packing in hoping that migt do the trick, suppose it might depend on how much moisture is in the air, I dunno, just hoping that someone had the answer.

Martin


----------



## Gary

It's memory is better than mine.


----------



## StevieB

Can you not clamp it down then screw it to the base while clamped and let the screws hold it in place?

I have done it with smaller timber but not a piece of worktop, not sure if the chipboard would be strong enough or not.

Steve.


----------



## motownmartin

StevieB":25cx4j5b said:


> Can you not clamp it down then screw it to the base while clamped and let the screws hold it in place?
> 
> I have done it with smaller timber but not a piece of worktop, not sure if the chipboard would be strong enough or not.
> 
> Steve.


Steve, maybe thats the answer for the front, it's going to hang over the back by about 18" so it can hold the Incra 17" LS Positioner and wonder fence, maybe I could make some kind of adjustable support to get it all level.

Had some bad news today, I won't be receiving the Incra positioner and Woodpecker table insert until I come back from my hols in 3 weeks time, a bit frustrating as i was waiting for the delivery yesterday and hoping to get most of it sorted this week, but it's not to be  

Martin


----------



## motownmartin

Just took the clamps off and it looked pretty flat






But then it started to creep back so I have decided to clamp it square and leave it for a few weeks while i'm away.






Keeping fingers crossed

Martin


----------



## Paul Chapman

motownmartin":11x16m7c said:


> But then it started to creep back



Martin,

Does the piece of worktop have Formica-type laminate glued to it? If so, and if it is only on one side, that is probably the cause of it bowing. If that is the case, I reckon no matter how much you try to flatten it, it will keep on bowing. Probably the only solution is to screw it down flat as has already been suggested.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


----------



## motownmartin

Paul Chapman":imrxiwz6 said:


> motownmartin":imrxiwz6 said:
> 
> 
> 
> But then it started to creep back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Martin,
> 
> Does the piece of worktop have Formica-type laminate glued to it? If so, and if it is only on one side, that is probably the cause of it bowing. If that is the case, I reckon no matter how much you try to flatten it, it will keep on bowing. Probably the only solution is to screw it down flat as has already been suggested.
> 
> Cheers :wink:
> 
> Paul
Click to expand...


Yes Paul, but it has always had the formica on it as it was at one time a table, but it has been left standing on it's end in my Mums garage, I think you're right though, i will have to screw it down flat.

Thanks

Martin


----------



## engineer one

martin, why not put a support around the edges, maybe some 2x1?

paul :wink:


----------



## motownmartin

engineer one":1vf8niq1 said:


> martin, why not put a support around the edges, maybe some 2x1?
> 
> paul :wink:



A good idea Paul, it will have to be about an Inch and a half or I won't get the drawers open, then again it's not bowed at the front or back so I could put some heftier timber along the sides.

Thanks mate

Martin


----------



## engineer one

actually martin why not just around the back and the sides?
you really need some support for the incra, because you are putting some strain on one side, so maybe that will help. you could also locate the top against the sides of the router box with a strip frame. that would help too.

paul :wink:


----------



## motownmartin

engineer one":3kv1nn06 said:


> actually martin why not just around the back and the sides?
> you really need some support for the incra, because you are putting some strain on one side, so maybe that will help. you could also locate the top against the sides of the router box with a strip frame. that would help too.
> 
> paul :wink:



This is more like it, exactly why I put this thread up so I could get suggestions like that, excellent Paul.

ccasion5: Martin


----------



## Gary

Martin

Work on the new router table is looking very good so far. A couple of questions to ask yourself whilst on holiday. How much time and effort has gone into making the table? How much money have you invested in the router, router lift, Incra, t-track and wonder fence?

Why spoil it all for the safe of a few quid to buy a piece of ply or MDF, laminate them by glueing and screwing together, before finishing with a suitable laminate?

You know it will make sense in the long run.

Gary


----------



## OllyK

This has been an interesting thread to watch. I've been pondering on some sort of router table for a while (the Aldi one has been OK to get me started but it really is bobbins). I'm short of space so I've pondering on making a universal base of some kind and then I can mount the router table on it or, the pillar drill etc to suit my needs.


----------



## motownmartin

Hi Gary, I hear what you are saying and I will give it a lot of thought, a lot of money has been invested in my woodworking venture in just 4 Months and yes it would be a shame to cut corners and make a sub standard job, I think that for now I shall continue with this and can always do another top at a later date, at the end of the day, I already have the materials to do the top and it's just a few days work.

Seriously though Gary, for now the money has all gone and don't have enough to buy any wood for projects  

There is some good news though, remember about six weeks ago I had my water tank burst and flooded the Kitchen, well I have received insurance payment (in cash), so I shall be re-fitting the Kitchen myself which should save a few hundred quid, the trouble is that the Mrs will be wanting me to put new tiles up and you can bet there gonna cost a fortune.

I'm gonna have to be a bit clever and try and stash a bit :lol: 

All the best

Martin


----------



## Lord Nibbo

motownmartin":2v9i5ccr said:


> So I shall be re-fitting the Kitchen myself which should save a few hundred quid, the trouble is that the Mrs will be wanting me to put new tiles up and you can bet there gonna cost a fortune.
> 
> I'm gonna have to be a bit clever and try and stash a bit :lol:
> 
> All the best
> 
> Martin



Or buy the tools you will need to do the kitchen first :lol:


----------



## motownmartin

OllyK":207lhjg1 said:


> This has been an interesting thread to watch. I've been pondering on some sort of router table for a while (the Aldi one has been OK to get me started but it really is bobbins). I'm short of space so I've pondering on making a universal base of some kind and then I can mount the router table on it or, the pillar drill etc to suit my needs.



When you say short of space Ollyk I know exactly what you mean.

What does bobbins mean, is it another word for rubbish :lol: 

Any way a mobile station is a good idea, I could do the same with this, in fact if I took the fence off and lay another board on top,it would then be suitable for something else like a mitre saw. I am pleased this thread has interested you and hope it is helpful to others.

Martin


----------



## motownmartin

Lord Nibbo":p8dsmcvv said:


> motownmartin":p8dsmcvv said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I shall be re-fitting the Kitchen myself which should save a few hundred quid, the trouble is that the Mrs will be wanting me to put new tiles up and you can bet there gonna cost a fortune.
> 
> I'm gonna have to be a bit clever and try and stash a bit :lol:
> 
> All the best
> 
> Martin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or buy the tools you will need to do the kitchen first :lol:
Click to expand...


:lol: :lol: :lol: that sounds like an experienced and clever Man.


----------



## OllyK

motownmartin":2jtnnu1m said:


> What does bobbins mean, is it another word for rubbish :lol:



You got it


----------



## lurker

Martin,

A lot of money has been invested in my woodworking venture - you can bloody well say that again. My SWMBO would have strung me up by now!

So I shall be re-fitting the Kitchen myself - well do to the same standard as that router table and she just might let you off should she ever find out how much you have spent.

By the way, that top - chuck it and do a Ply & MDF combo one.


----------



## motownmartin

Okay then (homer) I shall make a new one but still practice with the one I got, then when i'm happy with it I shall raid the Wife's purse, a few quid each week should do it :lol: 

Thanks

Martin


----------



## Gary

You know it makes sense.


----------



## engineer one

raiding the wifes' purse,.hm how is that going to keep your fingers intact to work the router??? :-k (hammer) 

paul :wink:


----------



## motownmartin

:lol: I never thought about the consequences Paul, it will have to be my secret credit card instead :lol: 

Martin


----------



## motownmartin

lurker":8fjgapah said:


> Martin,
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, that top - chuck it and do a Ply & MDF combo one.



Okay, if I do that, where can I get some Formica laminate from and how do I glue it on :?: 

I am still waiting for delivery of the woodpecker insert plate and the incra LS positioner, apparently I shall be receiving the positioner on Friday or Monday and the insert plate a week later, i'll believe that when I see it :roll: 

Getting a bit depressed with it at the moment after having 3 weeks on the sick and 2 weeks on holiday and still not 100%  , lets hope this delivery happens to give me a boost and get back to normal.

Sorry about the whinge, normal service will be resumed shortly  

Martin


----------



## Mike.C

If you do not want to buy a sheet of laminate, you could aways use laminate flooring such as this:

http://www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk/produ ... ils_32.htm

or you can get it even cheaper at B&Q.

Then get yourself a can of heavy duty Evostik and glue the flooring to both sides of your MDF or ply, but don't just click the flooring together as you would on a floating floor, glue them together before you stick them to the MDF/ply.

If not you maybe able to get an offcut of laminate/formica from your local dealer.

Cheers

Mike


----------



## motownmartin

Mike.C":2g9pqf5n said:


> If you do not want to buy a sheet of laminate, you could aways use laminate flooring such as this:
> 
> http://www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk/produ ... ils_32.htm
> 
> or you can get it even cheaper in B&Q.
> 
> Then get yourself a can of heavy duty Evostik and glue the flooring to both sides of your MDF or ply, but don't just click the flooring together as you would on a floating floor, glue them together before you stick them to the MDF/ply.
> 
> If not you maybe able to get an offcut of laminate/formica from your local dealer.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Mike


I have some flooring left over from my lounge but it's wood instead of the manmade laminate, would this be OK, isuppose it would if I keep applying ptfe like I do with the thicknesser table.

Martin


----------



## Gary

Is that table top not finished yet? :lol:  :lol:  :lol:


----------



## motownmartin

Gary":2vkdc3gg said:


> Is that table top not finished yet? :lol:  :lol:  :lol:



No, it's not even started  , and where's ya bin, moving house yet :?: 

Martin


----------



## Mike.C

Martin what finish did your wood flooring come with, or wasn't it pre-finished? 
The reason I mentioned the laminate flooring was it comes with a plastic type finish, which like formica, is ideal for feeding work on a router table.

Even if the stuff you already have does not have a finish on it, you could always give it a few coats of varnish. You should not have to use PTFE.

Cheers

Mike


----------



## motownmartin

Just realised that I had to throw it away as it got damp and bowed  

Martin


----------



## Lord Nibbo

motownmartin":1ob7vpz8 said:


> Just realised that I had to throw it away as it got damp and bowed
> 
> Martin


 Martin I covered my top with a piece of this It's about three times thicker than formica type laminates, infact perfect for router table tops. It comes in many colours two sided, the colours of mine was white/cream one side and black marble on the other side. Because it is so thick it's flat to start with, just evo stick it to a piece of mdf and your done, no bumps and to cut it just use a router, dead easy. :lol:


----------



## Niki

Hi Martin

On my first router table I used 21mm plywood as a top and covered it with 8mm "floor panels" (Classen) that are laminated from both sides.

On the new one, I used 30mm counter top and also covered it with 8mm floor panels.

The floor panels are connected to the top with screws.

niki


----------



## motownmartin

Lord Nibbo":gzjrce49 said:


> motownmartin":gzjrce49 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just realised that I had to throw it away as it got damp and bowed
> 
> Martin
> 
> 
> 
> Martin I covered my top with a piece of this It's about three times thicker than formica type laminates, infact perfect for router table tops. It comes in many colours two sided, the colours of mine was white/cream one side and black marble on the other side. Because it is so thick it's flat to start with, just evo stick it to a piece of mdf and your done, no bumps and to cut it just use a router, dead easy. :lol:
Click to expand...


Thanks LN, seen this stuff in B&Q but wasn't sure about it, but if you have used it then it's good enough for me, how thick was the MDF you used :?: 

Martin


----------



## motownmartin

Niki":3kwbqntx said:


> Hi Martin
> 
> On my first router table I used 21mm plywood as a top and covered it with 8mm "floor panels" (Classen) that are laminated from both sides.
> 
> On the new one, I used 30mm counter top and also covered it with 8mm floor panels.
> 
> The floor panels are connected to the top with screws.
> 
> niki


Thanks Niki, another option for me to think about.

Martin


----------



## Anonymous

Come on Martin, get it built :wink: :lol:


----------



## Lord Nibbo

motownmartin":36cvn7l6 said:


> Lord Nibbo":36cvn7l6 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> motownmartin":36cvn7l6 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just realised that I had to throw it away as it got damp and bowed
> 
> Martin
> 
> 
> 
> Martin I covered my top with a piece of this It's about three times thicker than formica type laminates, infact perfect for router table tops. It comes in many colours two sided, the colours of mine was white/cream one side and black marble on the other side. Because it is so thick it's flat to start with, just evo stick it to a piece of mdf and your done, no bumps and to cut it just use a router, dead easy. :lol:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Thanks LN, seen this stuff in B&Q but wasn't sure about it, but if you have used it then it's good enough for me, how thick was the MDF you used :?:
> 
> Martin
Click to expand...


I went with the plans, was it one sheet of 18mm ply and one sheet of 12mm mdf I don't remember. I do remember having to be very careful where I put any screws when it glued the mdf and ply.

Then I lipped all around the edge with oak, glued the laminate on, flush routed all around the edges, then I routed a chamfer all around. I'll go and take a pic hang on a minute or two.......

Here you go
Laminate top, fence all laminated with the same laminate from one sheet a little over 900mm square. 





Close up of the laminate, note how thick it is. Sorry obout the focusing.





The top is not screwed down, with the router fixed in place and the fence on it's heavy enough not to need permanent fixing which makes it easy to remove the router if needed.


----------



## motownmartin

Tony":mkcg0lud said:


> Come on Martin, get it built :wink: :lol:


I'm trying Tony, if you are good I might even let you come round and help me :lol: :wink: 

The good news is that the LS positioner and Wonder fence arrived this morning  , the bad news is that the woodpecker insert plate won't be with me until the end of next week  , even worse is i'll be back at woek then   

Lord Nibbo, thanks for the detailed pics, looks the bees knees, looks like the way to go, for now I shall attempt to make the top out of what I have just to make sure I can do it :? then make the bees knees top at a later date once I know exactly what I want.

In the meantime I shall get this fence together and post some pics later.

Martin


----------



## motownmartin

As promised, some pics of the LS positioner and Wonder fence.

There were 4 reasons why I opted for the Wonder fence, so I have tried to show them in the photo's.

Reason 1, A high rise fence cap which allows you to cut boards standing upright with accuracy.





Reason 2, the fence acts as a dust extraction hose.





Reason 3, the fence is split and adjustable back and forth to allow for planing/jointing, this is adjusted by using a wedge on the left and right fences as shown in pic.




This is the result





Reason 4, as above the fence is split to allow you to usea large cutter.









Sorry, I am a rubbish photographer

Martin


----------



## Gary

Still got no top to attach it to though. :lol:  :lol:  :lol: 


At this rate you problem will be solved when someone buys you one for christmas.


----------



## motownmartin

Gary":3kxuy7c2 said:


> Still got no top to attach it to though. :lol:  :lol:  :lol:
> 
> 
> At this rate you problem will be solved when someone buys you one for christmas.


That's the top in the photo's, it'll be fine once I have waved the magic wand :lol:


----------



## motownmartin

I have started to make my table top, about time too I hear you say.

I used 2 3/4" MDF boards, okay so far, cut it to size, not so easy, need a bigger workshop, don't we all  , ripped a recycled Sapele shelf for the trimming then thicknessed them to size, I made them 2mm deeper than the top so that i could sit the the resin sheet inside.

I used the same material as Lord Nibbo for the top, seems like the bees knees, nice and flat, not sure how to glue it on though, I thought that I might use silicone sealant just in case it needs replacing, I would think that would be fine as the top fits inside the edging, anyone have any views on this :?: 

Just waiting for the Table insert, it's on it's way from woodpeckers I am led to believe, lets hope it's not more Bullshit.


----------



## Mike.C

Very nice Martin, well done mate, it looks a right treat =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> 

When you say you used sealant, do you mean you actually fixed it down to the MDF with sealant?

Cheers

Mike


----------



## motownmartin

Mike.C":3iz0uqbv said:


> Very nice Martin, well done mate, it looks a right treat =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Mike



Thanks Mike, it doesn't look as good as Lord Nibbo's but not bad for a beginner


----------



## Anonymous

motownmartin":1sfsxq2b said:


> Tony":1sfsxq2b said:
> 
> 
> 
> Come on Martin, get it built :wink: :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying Tony, if you are good I might even let you come round and help me :lol: :wink:
Click to expand...


Be a pleasure Martin 

and my rates are very reasonable.......


----------



## Lord Nibbo

motownmartin":rny7t459 said:


> it doesn't look as good as Lord Nibbo's but not bad for a beginner



Well it look ok to me =D> The only difference is I glued on the hardwood edges first, covered it all with the laminate then routered the edge of the laminate back to the hardwood, doing that way made it easier to glue on the laminate. 

PS ... I used Evostick contact adhesive and put two coats on both surfaces.


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## motownmartin

Lord Nibbo":2bg3m9g1 said:


> motownmartin":2bg3m9g1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> it doesn't look as good as Lord Nibbo's but not bad for a beginner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well it look ok to me =D> The only difference is I glued on the hardwood edges first, covered it all with the laminate then routered the edge of the laminate back to the hardwood, doing that way made it easier to glue on the laminate.
> 
> PS ... I used Evostick contact adhesive and put two coats on both surfaces.
Click to expand...


It looks ok at a distance, I didn't get the mitred corners quite right  

As far as the glueing goes, I don't think i'll be using evo-stick, the resin top fits so snugly in the recess and it will be a recipe for disaster, I need to use something that will allow me to slide it a little, if i'm 0.5mm out then it's ruined.


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## Lord Nibbo

I just viewed the thread 5 times on the trot so I could say I was the 10,000 viewer..... :lol: :lol: \/ \/ \/


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## Gary

Looking good Martin.

Just one question though.

Where's it gonna go when you've finished it?


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## motownmartin

Lord Nibbo":pvdkdnht said:


> I just viewed the thread 5 times on the trot so I could say I was the 10,000 viewer..... :lol: :lol: \/ \/ \/



Congrtulations your Lordship, your reward is to send me a selection of 1/2" router cutters :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## motownmartin

Gary":3rd24me3 said:


> Looking good Martin.
> 
> Just one question though.
> 
> Where's it gonna go when you've finished it?



Dunno Gary, my Son has just gone back to uni so I might have to put it in his bedroom :wink:


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## Lord Nibbo

motownmartin":l270lg3e said:


> Gary":l270lg3e said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good Martin.
> 
> Just one question though.
> 
> Where's it gonna go when you've finished it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dunno Gary, my Son has just gone back to uni so I might have to put it in his bedroom :wink:
Click to expand...

 Tell your swmbo the forum says it needs to be acclimatised and tested in the warmth of the living room :lol: :twisted: :lol: :wink: I've got an extra bedroom to put you up for a few days if she gets nasty..... :lol: 8)


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## motownmartin

Lord Nibbo":3fnw87bp said:


> motownmartin":3fnw87bp said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gary":3fnw87bp said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good Martin.
> 
> Just one question though.
> 
> Where's it gonna go when you've finished it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dunno Gary, my Son has just gone back to uni so I might have to put it in his bedroom :wink:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Tell your swmbo the forum says it needs to be acclimatised and tested in the warmth of the living room :lol: :twisted: :lol: :wink: I've got an extra bedroom to put you up for a few days if she gets nasty..... :lol: 8)
Click to expand...

 :lol: :lol: :lol: do you also have a life support machine


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## motownmartin

It' complete at last.

Some pics

In it's final position, until I do some long pieces, it's a good job I put some wheels on it.






The Woodpecker table insert, this was quite easy to fit with a template, I cut the hole about 1mm deeper as the plate has 8 leveling screws.





The triton router in situ





How easy is this to change the cutter, no more skin taken off my knuckles :lol: 





The dust extraction hose fitted to the wonder fence





Some feather boards fitted when cutting smller/narrow items





The right angled sled for doing the dovetail and finger joints






Thanks to all who helped me with suggestions, thanks to Lord Nibbo for sending me the plans and thanks to Gary for the sarcasm :lol: 

I hope you enjoed this thread and I hope some of you got something from it.

All the best


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## Paul Chapman

That looks great, Martin =D> Did you buy that Woodpecker insert plate over here?

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## motownmartin

Paul Chapman":2q1ysh96 said:


> That looks great, Martin =D> Did you buy that Woodpecker insert plate over here?
> 
> Cheers :wink:
> 
> Paul


 
Yes paul, I got it via woodworkers workshop, it cost a fortune but for peace of mind worth it for me. 

After all the waiting for the incra and woodpecker I wish I had gone and bought direct from the USA, woodpecker themselves charged a small fortune for shipping, then you get hit for taxes when it arrives, so that counted them out. 
I did find a company that were reasonably priced on the shipping but they didn't have correct size incra positioner, I did actually order the 25" positioner fro them (Eagleamerica) but overnight I realized it would be too big, I phoned to cancel the order.


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## Fecn

Where do I find the smiley for envy? 

That looks absolutely superb!

Well done Martin! How long until you finish my one?


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## Chris Knight

Martin,
That looks really great - very stylish too.


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## Lord Nibbo

Seeing that fence has made me quite :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: =D> =D> =D>


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## Fecn

Lord Nibbo":3rfygaaz said:


> :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:



Yeah.. that's the smiley I was after


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## CNC Paul

Hi Martin,

That looks extremely NICE, is there any movement in the fence ?


CNC Paul


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## motownmartin

CNC Paul":3u9ynmye said:


> Hi Martin,
> 
> That looks extremely NICE, is there any movement in the fence ?
> 
> 
> CNC Paul



Paul, if I grab the outermost point of the fence and put a fair bit of pressure on it, there will be about 5 to 10 thou of movement there, I am very suprised at how sturdy it is.


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## motownmartin

Fecn":3hfm94pj said:


> Where do I find the smiley for envy?
> 
> That looks absolutely superb!
> 
> Well done Martin! How long until you finish my one?



I'll swap you for that CNC machine :lol:


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## motownmartin

Lord Nibbo":2blxoajx said:


> Seeing that fence has made me quite :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: =D> =D> =D>



Cost £300 but I reckon it will be worth every penny


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## LWS

Martin - I have thoroughly enjoyed reading this topic and many congratulations for a job well done.

As the owner of two router table systems who is unhappy with both I intend to be a bit of a sheep and make one of these. Please can you advise me of where to source the plans in the UK? Thanks.

One other query.. I can see that the Incra fence dust extraction will work okay but what about dust from the router box within the stand? How is that extracted?

By the way the two table systems with which I am unhappy are the Veritas complete system and a sliding carriage cast-iron table from the Woodcut Trading company (exactly the same as the Fox one that Rutlands sell. If anyone wants to buy the cast iron one I will sell it cheaply to a forum member.


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## motownmartin

LWS":2uk2pkry said:


> Martin - I have thoroughly enjoyed reading this topic and many congratulations for a job well done.
> 
> As the owner of two router table systems who is unhappy with both I intend to be a bit of a sheep and make one of these. Please can you advise me of where to source the plans in the UK? Thanks.
> 
> One other query.. I can see that the Incra fence dust extraction will work okay but what about dust from the router box within the stand? How is that extracted?
> 
> By the way the two table systems with which I am unhappy are the Veritas complete system and a sliding carriage cast-iron table from the Woodcut Trading company (exactly the same as the Fox one that Rutlands sell. If anyone wants to buy the cast iron one I will sell it cheaply to a forum member.


Hi LWS

Many thanks for the kind words.

This table is based on Norm's Delux Router Table, a fellow forum member gave me the plans but I have passed them to someone else.

There is another extraction port at the back of the table but I only pipe up one, it all depends what i'm cutting, to be honest if I had the both operating at the same time I don't think it would be strong enough as I only have a small extractor, besides the wonderfence is removed for some operations such as joinery, I use the wonderfence for shaping and rebating edges, it takes away the chippings with ease.

If you would like to sell your router tables it's best to put up a message with for sale in the title then people will contact you if interested.


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## motownmartin

Mike.C":2gqorczq said:


> When you say you used sealant, do you mean you actually fixed it down to the MDF with sealant?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Mike



Sorry Mike, I think I missed this first time round, yes it's glued on to the mdf with silicone sealant.


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## motownmartin

I noticed this week that my table top was dished by about 1mm, not much but enough to muck up any precision joinery.

I think this has happened due to me not fixing any laminate to the underside of the table top allowing the moisture to swell the mdf, I thought that by using the sealant rather than glue it would have allowed the boards to expand equally or it may be still settling down.

Anyway, I had to find a way of combating this, I thought maybe I could build some jacking devices for the centre compartment, I bought some angle iron and some 8mm nuts and bolts, but I didn't get a drill bit  

First of all I had to fix the top to the cabinet very securely, I used some 1 1/4" batons and screwed through to the cabinet and the top.





Then instead of making the jacks I cut some thin slithers of wood and inserted these between the inner cabinet and the table top.










I don't know if this pic shows the result very well, I should have done a before and after.










As flat as a Pancake, might still do the jacks at a later date, they should give me adjustment if needed.


----------

