# Struggling with Blade Tensioning



## redalpha3 (7 Jan 2015)

Hello Scrolling People 

I'm struggling to get back into fretwork after a long absence and would welcome advice. 

I use a Diamond Scrollsaw (Model 26?) with stand and seat. I have always loved it but the method it uses for blade changing and tensioning (screw fitting at rear of saw) is causing me difficulty. I, like many on here it seems , have a really bad back, and stretching to alter blade tension and change blades is painful. Any fretwork with lots of internal cuts is out of the question at the moment as too much blade changing means that I seize up! 

I see two options, there will be more. Either buy a saw like the DeWalt788 which is usable from the front or modify my present scrollsaw. 

Comments on this forum have put me off the Excalibur which is available from the UK and to be honest, importing a saw would be a last resort. I'd prefer a solution which incorporates my trusty old Diamond but I'm not sure how I'd proceed. 

I'd be grateful for any hints and tips that might help me out 

Thanks 
A different Pete


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## jonluv (7 Jan 2015)

Hi Pete,

Know how you feel as my saw's quick tensioner is a god's send

You will be very lucky to get a 240v DeWalt 788 in the UK as I believe ( no evidence) less than 100 came in from the USA.

Regarding the Excalibur , a few years ago people said the quality slipped somewhat, however I tried one of the new ones over Xmas and thought it was excellent and if I was in the market for a new machine would definitely consider buying one

You could go for a Hegner of course, the Multicut 2s and above have the quick tensioning levers

There are Forum members with the Diamond saw who may be able to help re-engineer your saw to a front quick tensioning lever


John


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## Chippygeoff (7 Jan 2015)

As John has said, there are members here who have the diamond saw, I think between us we have every saw going. Could you not fit a bar to the tensioning knob at the rear, it would give you more leverage with less effort. I too suffer with a back problem so can understand your problem. I also own a Dewalt 788 that I bought many years ago when they were available here in the UK. The MK11 is now made in Taiwan and not as good as the MK1 but only available from across the pond and I would imagine the shipping cost would be close to the cost of the saw.

A Hegner would certainly solve your problem and doing inside work would be a joy instead of a pain in your back. Blade changing is quite quick and needs very litttle effort, the hardest part would be tightening the clamps.


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## redalpha3 (7 Jan 2015)

Chippygeoff: The Dewalt 110v can be imported but would be the neck end of £500 after import duty. They are shipped from somewhere in Georgia and the price is doubled in the process.
My first saw was a Hegner 1 single speed many years ago.I notice the blade tensioning has changed in the new model. I liked it and did lots of things on it but replaced it with a Diamond in 2001. The Diamond is great but has hardly had any use and I'm relucant to abandon it really.

Jonluv: The Excalibur looks good but I'm reluctant for the same reason. Not sure how the Diamond would be re-engineered but something that reduces the amount of getting up and down would be perfect.


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## finneyb (7 Jan 2015)

Could you sit at the side of the saw facing the side of the blade?
You could then reach the tensioner easier.
You would have to move the sheet being cut to the left, rather than push it to the blade.
May need so practice 

Brian


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## Walney Col (8 Jan 2015)

Another thought on sitting at the side of the saw....

Before you put a new blade in you could always use a couple of pairs of piers to twist the last half inch of blade (at both ends( by 90 degrees which would allow you to still push the work towards the blade.







Col.


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## redalpha3 (8 Jan 2015)

Interesting idea. I had not considered using the machine from the side. Only problem would be setting it up so that you could get your legs underneath.
I believe it is possible to turn the Diamond blade holders through 90 degrees so it may not be necessary to twist the blades at all. I will look at this in the morning and see if it is possible.

Thanks Lads


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## scrimper (8 Jan 2015)

Hi Pete

I have an original Diamond saw bought directly from the late Doug Woodward, it is a quality British made saw built to last, it has lot's of special features not found in other fretsaws. One is the ability to use any length or type of blade inc hacksaw or broken band-saw blades, also as you suggest the blade holders can be rotated in any direction, using the quick change holders a fretsaw blade can be changed without looking at the holders.

However it also has a few disadvantages, firstly unless it is bolted down properly it is noisy and vibrates (you state that you have the integral stand and seat so vibration should not be to bad for you), another disadvantage is that it uses a universal (carbon brush) motor which are easier to control speed wise but can be more noisy and less reliable than an induction motor such as the Hegners use.

The main disadvantage for me with the diamond is the lack of quick release blade tensioning, with mine it involves tightening a knurled knob at the front on top of the blade holder (the back tensioner is rarely used) the problem with this is that if doing lot's of cut-outs it takes time and is hard on the fingers, I was in correspondence about this with Doug Woodward and he was working on a quick tension device for the saw (he was always looking for improvements that would make it better) unfortunately he passed away and the saw was discontinued.

The lack of quick tension device was the main reason that I bought my Hegner, my last piece involved over 100 cut-outs and doing it on the Diamond would have driven me mad! I would not get rid of the Diamond but I tend for using it for heavier work and less delicate stuff not needing cut-outs. 

I presume you do have instructions for your Diamond saw?


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## redalpha3 (8 Jan 2015)

I've had a good look at my shed setup this morning. Much sighing and chin stroking. I use a converted outbuilding which is 6 feet by 6 feet 6 inches on a really good day, so space is at a premium. I think using the saw sideways is not an option. and I'm rapidly coming round to the idea that a new saw is the only way to go. Scrimper's post above made me realise that the Diamond has a couple of problems (I agree about the noise) that won't go away. I think the blade changing difficulty has postponed my getting back to fretwork. I'll look at the Hegner Multisaw2 variable and the smaller Excalibur as possibilities due to space restrictions and put the Diamond to one side. 

My head and Bank Manager say I should get the Hegner but I watched a Sheila Landry video on YouTube showing her using the Excalibur and it looked so easy to use....more chin stroking seems to be on the agenda.

As an aside, I bought the Diamond directly from Doug Woodward as he was changing premises around 2000. I only talked to him on the phone but he was a remarkable man. An old-fashioned engineer.

Many thanks to the people on this friendly forum.


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## scrimper (8 Jan 2015)

Don't give up on the Diamond it's a good machine, I spoke to Doug about the vibration and he advised me to (1) remove the balance weight fitted inside (if fitted) and (2) fit the machine to a real sturdy bench/cabinet and bolt it down to the floor.

As far as buying another saw goes I would recommend a Hegner, they are overpriced but I have never regretted buying mine. I bought my Multicut 2S variable in 1999 at a cost of £436 (a lot at the time) but was blown over when I tried it. I have lot's of machines in my workshop but the one I like using best is the Hegner, you get that kind of warm happy feeling every time you use it. Mine is quiet and vibration free and with the quick release blade holder and quick tension lever; blade changes are very fast and trouble free.

Only downside to the Hegner is they are over priced! (IMHO)


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## redalpha3 (8 Jan 2015)

I have a sentimental attachment to the Diamond and would hope to keep it for larger projects. Vibration has never been a major problem as I bought the stand and chair which uses my ample weight to anchor the saw.

The Hegner 2sv is £719.00 at the moment (postage free!). I am seriously tempted even though blade changing is not as simple as the Excalibur. The general impression I get from searching posts on the forum is that the build quality is excellent. Blade changing on the Excalibur looks easier (no tools needed) but several people seem to have been unhappy about their purchase. I like the Excalibur's saw tilting method too (it is different, at least) and jonluv (above) has tested a newer version and is impressed. (I think one of these can be obtained for about £650.

As I get older I find decision making difficult...


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## finneyb (8 Jan 2015)

And just to make your decision that little bit more difficult there is the Hegner clone @ £430 http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-tr ... scroll-saw


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## redalpha3 (8 Jan 2015)

finneyb":18gt4lws said:


> And just to make your decision that little bit more difficult there is the Hegner clone @ £430 http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-tr ... scroll-saw



Certainly a more pleasing price!


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## redalpha3 (8 Jan 2015)

Decision made.

I've gone with EX21 Excalibur plus stand. I think this saw will involve less movement for me and will allow me to play again. I'm still wary of saw quality but time will tell whether it is reliable or not. Worst case scenario would mean I send it back. Present plan is still to use Diamond as a big boy's saw. :lol:

Bought it from Axminster who tell me it could be delivered tomorrow! I will have to employ my son as workshop labourer until it is set up.

Thank you all again.


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## scrimper (8 Jan 2015)

We shall be expecting your preliminary review with some pictures tomorrow evening!


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## redalpha3 (8 Jan 2015)

scrimper":34vrhmja said:


> We shall be expecting your preliminary review with some pictures tomorrow evening!



Heh Heh. Sounds like an excellent idea. Busy negotiating with my son's agent.


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