# Tenoning jig for table saw



## Anonymous (22 Jan 2006)

Hi all

Just knocked up a tenoning jog to try on my table saw and it worked better than I hoped - might just stop cutting them on the router table when I have loads to do :wink: 

Still cut by hand when there is only cut one or two to cut though :lol: 

It is 'micro' adjutsable using the M6 threaded rod on top

I think it is well worth making one and it too about 2 1/2 hours to build using the table saw and router table. The slides for the top are oak, the micro adjuster lumps are off-cuts of ash and the rest is MDF

Pictures tell the story


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## Barry Burgess (22 Jan 2006)

More good work Tony - I have just been looking at the plans and printing them out but not getting off my a** and making them - I will have to take a leaf out of your book.


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## Philly (22 Jan 2006)

Nice work Tony!
You going for a project completion record? :lol: 
Cheers
Philly


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## Bean (22 Jan 2006)

Have you been banned from the house !!!

Mmm might nick that design

Bean


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## Gill (22 Jan 2006)

That looks very useful, Tony. I presume the saw blade guard was only removed for photographic purposes :wink: .

Gill


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## martyn2 (22 Jan 2006)

looks good  it will be usefull help to speed throse tenons up a bit 

martyn


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## SketchUp Guru (22 Jan 2006)

Sure! I just come in from the shop after knocking up a tenonning jig for my tablesaw. First thing I do is find yours which is much better. Now I'm just going to slink off to my hole. 

Nice work, Tony.


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## Anonymous (22 Jan 2006)

Gill":3aq5wuef said:


> That looks very useful, Tony. I presume the saw blade guard was only removed for photographic purposes :wink: .
> 
> Gill



err, of course  :wink:


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## luthier49 (23 Jan 2006)

That`s a fib. You can`t use it with the crown guard in place.


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## Newbie_Neil (23 Jan 2006)

luthier49":10nqr2pl said:


> That`s a fib. You can`t use it with the crown guard in place.



Tony. :roll:


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## martyn2 (23 Jan 2006)

luthier49":320h67lv said:


> That`s a fib. You can`t use it with the crown guard in place.



 have you seen Ians one he made with a guard :?:  

martyn


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## frank (23 Jan 2006)

seems a bit daft to me having a fella sitting on a horse in your workshop,i mean all them droppins    

frank


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## martyn2 (23 Jan 2006)

unless its rocking horse **** then you can sell it on E-bay  

martyn


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## stewart (23 Jan 2006)

I blush a little to attach this picture but if anyone is thinking of making a decent tenoning jig but isn't sure they'll use it why not knock one of these up to see how truly useful something with a little higher spec could be  






It works reasonably well, especially as there's a fine adjuster on my table saw fence.

Novicely,
Stewart


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## OPJ (26 Jan 2006)

This is excellent, Tony - and you too, Stuart!  

I've always thought of it as theoretcially rather simple to knock-up a jig of your own in a matter of hours, as opposed to spending close to £100 for something that may not even be compatible with your model of table saw.

Very well done, your an inspiration to the rest of us!

I still don't like how _exposed_ the blades are though... :?


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## ydb1md (29 Jan 2006)

Nice tenoning jig Tony. 

All you need now is a dado set to go with it. 

I have an idea. :idea: 

I'll send you a dado set if you send me your extra your BUJ. :wink: :lol:


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## ratkinsonuk (15 Feb 2006)

Tony - what's the piece of paper for near the angle adjuster?

I have a KITY 419 - have you made any mods that I'd find usefull on mine?

Rob.


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## Permutation_Jim (17 Apr 2006)

I have a Kity 419, as well, although only with the mitre (what a goofy track width) and the table extensions. 

I noted that you built your own zero-clearance insert, complete with screws. It'd be great to know how you did that. 

I've been looking for a used table slide, but that's not likely going to hit my price / comfort range. 

In any case, it'd be great to know about the insert, and I'll keep you informed about my router table insert I'm attaching to it. 

Thanks, Jim


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## Anonymous (18 Apr 2006)

Hi jim

The zero insert was simply cut to size out of 9mm wood (ply for one and oak for another) and then I ran it over the router table to reduce the thickness to that of the aluminium one on the three sides that abridge the tabletop. I simply drilled and countersunk for the bolts and fitted the insert with the blade wound right down and the riving knife removed. I wound the spinning blade up through the wood to cut the slot. I then removed the insert and used a hand saw to extend the slot for the riving knife and then put everything back.


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## Permutation_Jim (18 Apr 2006)

Tony,

Great, I'll try that. 

When I lower my blade, it never gets lower than about 6 mm *above* the table, never mind below it. Do you use a smaller blade (smaller than the 200 mm) or have you figured out a way to lower the whole assembly?

I thought I was the only Kity owner out there, and it's nice to find a few others.

Thanks, Jim


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## Anonymous (18 Apr 2006)

Hey Jim

I think my Freud blade is 190mm. Quite a few kity owners on her


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## ratkinsonuk (19 Apr 2006)

Jim, I'm still using the standard supplied blade, but mine does retract below the table.

Perhaps there's an adjustable stop inside the limits the amount of travel?

Bean's obviously had his apart (https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8520), perhaps he can shed some light on it?

Rob.


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## Bean (22 Apr 2006)

Jim


> When I lower my blade, it never gets lower than about 6 mm above the table, never mind below it. Do you use a smaller blade (smaller than the 200 mm) or have you figured out a way to lower the whole assembly?



Strange mine goes below the table top with either the standard 200mm blade or the Freud 190mm blade. Turn the saw over and check for muck in the mechanism, mine has occasionally stuck due to chippings and dust, but not for a while now.

Welcome to the 419 club

Bean


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## ratkinsonuk (24 Apr 2006)

One thought Jim - is it the blade or the riving knife that won't drop below the table height?

I have to take the riving knife off to drop it all the way down. Is this the same with you Bean?

Rob.


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## Bean (24 Apr 2006)

Rob I use a modded riving knife which sits just below the top of the saw blade, hence both the blade and knife drop below the table of the saw, which is where it normally lives unless I have not finished cutting when I pack up for the night.

Bean


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## ratkinsonuk (24 Apr 2006)

Do you still attach the Crown Guard to the riving knife, or have you set up an independent system (don't remember seeing it in the pics)?.

Rob.


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## Bean (24 Apr 2006)

Rob currently I do not use a crown guard, commercial systems are avialiable, and I am working on one of my own to allow extraction and the freedom to cut tenons horizontally

Bean


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## Midnight (28 Apr 2006)

I see the hand's improving Tony....


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