# Turning is Heaven in 2011



## CHJ (4 Mar 2011)

Well the season started with a request for some staples, good old pencil pots, a chance to use up some of the off-cuts.


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## Steve Jones (4 Mar 2011)

some really nice work there Chas but isn't the title 10 years out of date ?

Steve


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## CHJ (4 Mar 2011)

This afternoon saw something a little more attractive come out of the shed.

A chunk of Antipodean Burr forced into my collection by Richard Burrow, Thanks Rich, got the brain cells working on finger preservation and sorting out how to clean up the base. Bowl depression 195mm dia.


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## CHJ (4 Mar 2011)

Steve Jones":1yum1uft said:


> --- but isn't the title 10 years out of date ?
> 
> Steve



Nope


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## Jonzjob (4 Mar 2011)

Those pencil boxes look good, but I have googled Antipodean Burr, what is it? Looks good what ever it is???

Soudns like escapologiest peas?


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## skeetoids (4 Mar 2011)

Hi Chaz,

I am so happy you are posting your work again, you set the standard for elegance, design and finishing.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, the quality of your finish is aspirational. As a relatively new turner I look at your work as the no.1 guide on how to finish a piece. 

Beautiful.

Cheers,

Lee.


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## CHJ (4 Mar 2011)

Jonzjob":2vca9iwo said:


> ......Antipodean Burr, what is it? Looks good what ever it is???..



*Possibly Mallee*


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## Leo (4 Mar 2011)

Lavally stuff !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gives me some thoughts on some wood that I can't think what to do with !!!!!!!!!!

Imitation is the best compliment that you can get. ????

Brendan taught me that one hehehheheheheh ( bmac )


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## Blister (5 Mar 2011)

Very nice work Chas

My favorite pen holder is the Cherry & Spalted Beech , nice colour contrast and shape 

I especially like the Burr 

Quality turnings 

8)


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## cambournepete (5 Mar 2011)

Hi Chas,
How do you finish the rough part of the burr?
I can see it's shiny so I'm guessing a spray lacquer, but how do you prepare it before that?


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## CHJ (5 Mar 2011)

cambournepete":2n0jme09 said:


> Hi Chas,
> How do you finish the rough part of the burr?
> I can see it's shiny so I'm guessing a spray lacquer, but how do you prepare it before that?



1. Wire brush the loose particles off.
2. Secure any unstable bits with CA. if bark still present.
3. Brush on Cellulose Sanding sealer, (I use diluted about 15%) let it soak well in to secure loose bark. 
4. Burnish with a domed Bristle Brush attached to the Chestnut Buffing arbor.
5. Burnish again with a smattering of Canauba and/or MC wax.


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## Paul.J (5 Mar 2011)

Good to see you pottering about again Chas  
That burr is lovely,well turned,and finished.


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## CHJ (5 Mar 2011)

An oddment of Elm provided a few minutes of relaxation. (140mm dia.)







Then having got into the swing of things decided the afternoon deserved something a little more worthwhile. Elm again (195mm dia.)


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## nev (5 Mar 2011)

hello mr chas
=D> regarding the very lovely pencil pots, could i ask what glue / adhesive you use / recommend to join the various woods? 
(i am guessing you run the various woods through a thicknesser, glue, clamp then turn?  )


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## Jonzjob (5 Mar 2011)

I do like the second elm bowl Chas. The grain is lovely. The first is OK, but I have never been a great fan of very small bases on bowls/goblets/etc. I love to see the elegance and stability of something that won't fall over when in use. Just a personal opinion. Much netter for me if the small foot were to be removed. Lovely shape from there up  

Elm, love it!


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## CHJ (5 Mar 2011)

nev":1bts45t0 said:


> .....pencil pots, could i ask what glue / adhesive you use / recommend to join the various woods?
> ..



The method I use is detailed on my site, Specific Link


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## nev (5 Mar 2011)

CHJ":j42zgwfr said:


> nev":j42zgwfr said:
> 
> 
> > .....pencil pots, could i ask what glue / adhesive you use / recommend to join the various woods?
> ...



thanks Chas
how wrong was i #-o  
when applying the CA , do you apply one thin bead centrally all around?
ta


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## CHJ (5 Mar 2011)

nev":1h45t5zh said:


> .....when applying the CA , do you apply one thin bead centrally all around?


You need to make sure both surfaces are covered, you need maximum surface area bond, both surfaces must be absolutely flat.

Medium CA as a bead can be worked to spread by rubbing parts together before it activates but you will need to wait longer for cure.

You can use PVA but you will need to leave clamped overnight on each glue up, strong enough but not recommended as you can get glue creep on joints as wood moves.

Casamite is good and does not creep, again you need to leave clamped until cured.


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## CHJ (6 Mar 2011)

Jonzjob":178lwvqq said:


> ....... The first is OK, but I have never been a great fan of very small bases on bowls/goblets/etc. I love to see the elegance and stability of something that won't fall over when in use. ....


I'm with you there John in general terms, in it's defense it is more stable than at first impression because of the thin walls the bulk of the weight is low down, so it's virtually self righting.


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## CHJ (6 Mar 2011)

A little voice said " I want one of those rounded Lidded Pots only about twice the size" so on the basis that it is not wise to ignor little voices:-

Sycamore and Pau Rosa (195mm dia.)


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## richburrow (6 Mar 2011)

Chas, all your work look great, as ever a sweet finish  !
I like how you have dealt with the burr, gives me ideas....hmmm.
I think it is Brown Mallee, very similar patterns and bark to some of the Red Mallee I have stashed.
I will have a try at a similar piece and see how it comes out  
When I have got round to making that sleeve  
Speak soon
Rich


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## CHJ (6 Mar 2011)

richburrow":1p4wwh5x said:


> .....I like how you have dealt with the burr, gives me ideas....hmmm.
> .....


Quite pleased with the outcome myself, presentation of finished piece is much enhanced by having a complete natural edge, burrs that have been truncated with a straight cut edge jar with me and I find very difficult to see an attractive solution.


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## Jonzjob (6 Mar 2011)

Chas, I think that 'little voice' rymes with 'good choice'! That is a delightful box (sorry, box = parallel sides and flat bottom)

Bollaricis, that is a box and a lovely one at that. The combination of colours looks great. The shape and ballance are good for me and the finnish, dare I say, finnishes it!


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## Paul.J (7 Mar 2011)

That's a great looking box Chas  
I think you've been away from the lathe for too long if you're hearing voices now :lol:


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## CHJ (7 Mar 2011)

Another one using up some oddments, Sycamore & Sapele (175mm)


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## chrisbaker42 (7 Mar 2011)

Sycamore looks great and I have got a very large tree trunk to use - may have some spare for any members anywhere near West Wales


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## CHJ (4 Apr 2011)

Broke the boredom of two weeks forced inactivity with an hour at the lathe today, no good trying to finish off several segmented pots in the making due to time required but managed to to stay on my feet long enough to do these Walnut Light and Shower pulls for someone in the village.
Simple they may be, but a relief to at least do something constructive.


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## johnny.t. (5 Apr 2011)

I know the feeling Chas :lol: First tending to ill offspring, then inevitably getting infected by them and not being able to do anything remotely constructive............ ](*,)


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## gus3049 (5 Apr 2011)

johnny.t.":182rtjxt said:


> I know the feeling Chas :lol: First tending to ill offspring, then inevitably getting infected by them and not being able to do anything remotely constructive............ ](*,)



Ah but then some of us avoided the patter of tiny feet and allowed others to breed our pension payers. Don't know how you cope. We have enough trouble with cats and chickens.

Lost our first Orpington hen today. She must be the most expensive chicken in France. We ordered 20 eggs and ONE hatched £40 plus feed since, hardly any eggs and now she's died of cancer!! Very decorative though - she was.

Sorry to go a bit off topic Chas.


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## Paul.J (6 Apr 2011)

Nice looking variety of pulls Chas  
Some more bits that you found some use for.


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## CHJ (7 Apr 2011)

Some more offcuts stuck together in a more or less organised fashion.

Walnut, Ash, and Oak, (180mm dia.)


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## Wood spoiler (7 Apr 2011)

I never ceased to be amazed and impressed by your breadth of knowledge and skills.

I love the things you produce

Whereas some go the out and out art route I remain inspired by your work and the quality of your finishes. As newbies we set out to discover what it is we want to produce

The traditional skills that you share with us is where I have set my aims. To produce quality products that show off the natural beauty of the wood. It is all subjective where we take our turning, but ever since I started and found this site, yours has been the consistent font of knowledge that is always respected and acknowledged (even when telling me I have taken a wrong turn

Keep them all coming and thanks for sharing, and accept my thanks for your many contributions to us all.

Sometimes it is just nice to say "thank you" , so although this bout was triggered by your latest efforts, this is a grand round up of thanks for the the regular contributions =D> 

(Any one would think you were the judge!)


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## CHJ (16 Apr 2011)

Another basic Box for the pressy store, Walnut, Ash and Oak 175mm dia.


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## CHJ (16 Apr 2011)

And something a little different; done basically as a design/process proving excersise, 220mm dia.


*Space Platter* in Walnut and Ash.








I think I might have had the lathe spinning a bit too fast.


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## Blister (16 Apr 2011)

Very nice Chas

I like it a lot 

Can be used either way up as well 8)


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## CHJ (17 Apr 2011)

Yet another box in Ash, Oak & Walnut, 160mm dia.


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## richburrow (18 Apr 2011)

I like these very much, the swirly one is very nice!!
Nice contrast beteen the timbers 8)


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## CHJ (18 Apr 2011)

richburrow":1s1liwe6 said:


> .... the swirly one is very nice!!
> ....


Yes it's a pattern that I like, adds a little something extra to simple segmenting.
I need to develope and master a better control of dimensioning though, I mean how perverse can a piece of 'dry' wood be before you next pick it up.


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## CHJ (21 Apr 2011)

Some more wood with movement, slowly sorting out the patience to achieve good joins in thicker pieces.

Walnut, AsH & Beech (160mm dia.)


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## Pvt_Ryan (21 Apr 2011)

Any chance of some WIPs of the 1st box on Page 3 & the space platter? I love them...


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## CHJ (21 Apr 2011)

Sorry I don't have any record of the build ups, I was too busy trying not to make a mistake on the cutting etc.
I do have a set of bits cut out for a lid similar to the pencil pot sides which may be prepared for glue-up later on today or tomorrow if I can get the gardening tasks completed. 
I'll try and get some pictures in the can of the various stages.


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## János (21 Apr 2011)

Hello,

I am not a great fan of segmented turning, anyway, but your "swirly things" almost changed my mind... :wink: That platter would be beautiful in any wood, as the shape is really elegant, and the swirl provided some real visual interest. It was quite a lot of pattern routing or pattern sanding to achieve such an immaculate fit, I think. You have got enviable patience. Your work deserves all my compliments.

Have a nice day,

János


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## CHJ (21 Apr 2011)

Thank you *János*, I too am not a big fan of the over busy pieces from a visual point of view but I do admire the skill and patience of those that have the ability to assemble them.

The swirl profiles are sanded for fit, the only tooling used being a bandsaw, the lathe and a couple of home made sanding aids.
Solving the challenge of close matching a curved profile is what started the interest, easy with CNC or an overhead profile router but somewhat more interesting to achieve without.


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## CHJ (21 Apr 2011)

Putting a Swirl together for Ryan, well a start anyway, may be a day or two before we get any further.










The resultant set ready for the interesting bit.






The first 2 pieces with profiles sanded smooth, there were some 12.5 mins. between these two shots.



Note that the sanded joint faces must be perfectly square to a common face.



The resultant fit after profile sanding




As these pieces are intended to have a central knob inserted then the segment width is not super critical, unlike the ones for the Space Platter.


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## Wood spoiler (21 Apr 2011)

I'm really enjoying seeing this theme of work and the various shapes and forms being created. Very inspirational.

May be jumping the gun but .... What glue do you use and how do you clamp it? Hope you can accommodate this in the next thrilling installment.

When I tried my basic fumbling down this avenue I had problems where the grains meet at 90 degrees on the box base. Any pointers on that element?


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## Pvt_Ryan (21 Apr 2011)

Thanks Chas.. 

I can't wait to see the whole process.


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## CHJ (21 Apr 2011)

Wood spoiler":2nmzqsud said:


> ....... What glue do you use and how do you clamp it?........When I tried my basic fumbling down this avenue I had problems where the grains meet at 90 degrees on the box base. Any pointers on that element?



For the majority of my pieces I use Casamite, some smaller ones I use CA.
Have a browse of my web site for Laminated Pencil Pots in the projects area to see how you get the joins perfect with the squeaky rule trick, you will never forget the feel of a perfectly flat surface once you have felt the resultant vibrations on a steel rule.


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## jorgoz (22 Apr 2011)

I'm not a woodturner and don't think i'll ever be a woodturner as such, but have been thinking of making a small treadle lathe somewhere in the future. 

The swirl pattern really looks nice and could be used for making a really nice little table top. I'm a total noob when it comes to square sanding and will be making a 12" disk-sander soon for a segmented drum i'm working on. Could you tell a bit more on how you got such nice tight joints in the swirl pattern ? How do you sand the concave surfaces ? Do you use a spindle sander to achieve this. I pressume sandpaper stuck to the convex surface would work too, but take quite a while.


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## CHJ (22 Apr 2011)

jorgoz":wmlzj5l2 said:


> .....The swirl pattern really looks nice and could be used for making a really nice little table top.


 Very difficult to do by hand in solid wood if you want close joints, would be far more practical and a more stable job done with veneered MDF.



jorgoz":wmlzj5l2 said:


> .....How do you sand the concave surfaces ? Do you use a spindle sander to achieve this.


 It would be virtually impossible to achieve the concave surface required with a standard spindle sander, no control of the precise radius and the drum would be too flexible.


jorgoz":wmlzj5l2 said:


> .....I pressume sandpaper stuck to the convex surface would work too, ....


 That's the only way I have come up with so far. I'm working on an alternate
jig method but jigs tend to be rather restricting on component size.


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## johnny.t. (23 Apr 2011)

CHJ":1q27l3nr said:


> And something a little different; done basically as a design/process proving excersise, 220mm dia.
> 
> 
> *Space Platter* in Walnut and Ash.
> ...



Steady on Chas, didn't anyone tell you segmented stuff was made from little square blocks? :lol: Very clever work and very nice too. Getting the fit between parts deserves a =D>


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## CHJ (26 Apr 2011)

Check fit before glue-up, this set is easier as it's for a lid and central knob will be fitted therefore the segment width dimensions don't have to be precise.


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## CHJ (5 May 2011)

The associated segment ring for the box body, segments as cut on chop saw, no sanding.



Base and top ring slices of Oak mounted on scrap screw chuck blocks.



Truing up the central segment ring.










It is essential that the end faces of the ring are flat and true across the diameter.

Now the Base.



Marking the foot ring, mounting socket and the outer diameter of the segment ring.



Sanded to 240grit and sealed.






Reversed on socket.



Face trued up and bonding area checked for flatness.




Although assembly can be done off the lathe, however if you don't have enough clamps and time and other tasks allow, the glue up can be done on the lathe using the tailstock as the clamp.


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## CHJ (5 May 2011)

This is a good time to check and true up the inner and reduce wall thickness if required.



True up joint surface of top ring slice.



And glue up, again using tailstock to align and apply clamp.


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## Pvt_Ryan (5 May 2011)

Nice..


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## CHJ (6 May 2011)

Clean up the outside and sand to 240 grit.



Seal to check for sanding or tooling marks.



Using parting tool remove central waste, (leaving screw chuck block attached means it's ready for use later.)






Undercutting and blending in inner top edge.






Reverse on cole jaws and remove chucking recess.







Box Body finished.




The whole of this sequence took 35 mins, including changing chucks and taking pictures.


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## loz (6 May 2011)

Pic S29 in reverse Chas ?

Sorry rephrase that - is the lathe in reverse ?


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## Blister (6 May 2011)

loz":78mr7see said:


> Pic S29 in reverse Chas ?
> 
> Sorry rephrase that - is the lathe in reverse ?




That's what I was going to say


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## CHJ (6 May 2011)

Yes, lathe in reverse, saves me bending over the lathe and gives me better view of what's going on.


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## CHJ (6 May 2011)

Now for the lid, 
Need to mount the segmented disk on a glue block to give access to rear.










Shape lid to fit Box top recess and drill hole for knob fixing.



And start top surface shaping.



Part off from Glue chuck and mount in Cole Jaws to start finishing top surface.



And finish off, sanding to 240grit.



And seal to check for sanding and tool marks.



Now for the knob.



Form good fit spigot to fit lid rough shape knob.



And Glue on Lid.






Clean up inner spigot.



And remove knob from lathe.



Remount in Cole Jaws and finish off knob.



A quick Buff inside and out.




And there we have it, yet another Box but with a swirly lid this time.







175 mm dia. Walnut, Ash and Brown Oak.


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## CHJ (31 May 2011)

The follow on from a hint that a local event needed something for the fund raising.

Very dry hunk of Walnut and with its selection of knots and drying induced fissures as hard as nails to turn.
365 mm diameter, sealed, buffed and finished off with Microcrystalline wax.


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## richburrow (31 May 2011)

Fantastic WIP, thanks for taking the time.
What a stunning bowl, I really like the lip, would make it easy to hold one handed.., very nice


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## CHJ (31 May 2011)

Thanks Rich,


richburrow":11kggyvn said:


> ...I really like the lip, would make it easy to hold one handed..,



Hardly Rich, at least not the right way up and certainly not with fruit in it. (365 mm diameter)

The lip is deliberately formed with a concave outer to aid grip when moving if full though.


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## CHJ (30 Jun 2011)

A couple of lidded pots turned from Home Grown hedge Beech, with Walnut offcut lids.






120mm diameter.







85mm diameter


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## Blister (30 Jun 2011)

Nice Chas 

Did you have to recover the one with the 2 knots in the side ?


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## Paul.J (30 Jun 2011)

Great looking pots Chas  
Love the colour of the Beech and gives a great contrast with the Walnut.
I bet the Beech took some careful drying out :?:


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## CHJ (30 Jun 2011)

Blister":19aeg7an said:


> Did you have to recover the one with the 2 knots in the side ?


 Yes Allan, Knot/Rot holes from previous pruning, just a bit of CA and some coffee grounds to fill small voids.


Paul.J":19aeg7an said:


> Love the colour of the Beech and gives a great contrast with the Walnut.
> I bet the Beech took some careful drying out :?:


 Part of that stash in the old greenhouse Paul from about 18months ago, funnily enough the Beech hedge prunings don't seem to split, might be because I only saved the crown chunks with multiple branching knots.


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## CHJ (6 Jul 2011)

An exercise in faith and fingers crossed, a bit of Cherry from some local trees felled last sunday, not exactly the ideal time of the year so decided to see what happens with a few bits of it whilst fresh rather than fume over the inevitable splits that will ensue over the next couple of years or so.

Nothing special in form, soaked in Lemon Oil to slow the drying, a bit special in as much as it's the 1000th. entry in the Bits and Pieces gallery.


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## Wood spoiler (6 Jul 2011)

Congratulations on your 1000th piece in your gallery.

It will be interesting to see what happens through the drying process.


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## Paul.J (6 Jul 2011)

Thats a lovely looking piece Chas for your 1000th :shock: 
Love the colour of it.
How thick/thin are the walls :?:


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## CHJ (6 Jul 2011)

Paul.J":1yzess1b said:


> Thats a lovely looking piece Chas for your 1000th :shock:
> Love the colour of it.
> How thick/thin are the walls :?:



We'll have to see how the colour sorts itself out as it dries, currently it's going reder with air exposure but who knows when the water/solvent sorts itself out assuming it's not firewood chips in the morning. A nats under 4mm thick Paul.


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## skeetoids (7 Jul 2011)

This is a beautiful bowl chas, does it have a foot, if so I think the gentle lift it gives the piece is excellent, looks almost like its floating. The photograph is great too, really adds to the piece.


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## loz (7 Jul 2011)

Fingers crossed its still in one piece today Chas. Its a gem.


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## CHJ (7 Jul 2011)

skeetoids":2pxprufn said:


> This is a beautiful bowl chas, does it have a foot,.....



Yes Lee, about 5mm, just a cleanup of the holding spigot,


loz":2pxprufn said:


> Fingers crossed its still in one piece today Chas.



Still there this morning, movement so far, which started within a couple of hours, is an inward curl along the grain axis which means it now rocks like a cradle when touched, but remains upright when stationary. (A total of 5mm curl so far on a 40mm wide base) If it survives I think I will resist flattening the base as it adds a novel character to the piece.


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## boysie39 (7 Jul 2011)

Chas. A little cracker looks good enough to eat, hope it dont split
1000 pieces "wow" havent the brain to even think that many.
REgards Boysie


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## CHJ (7 Jul 2011)

Thanks Eugene, by the way it's behaving at the moment I think some more of it is going to get turned wet. 
May just turn and leave to dry out before final finishing though, a real pain to finish whilst wet, wood slurry clogs any abrasive that looks at it and turning without any tool marks at all is a bit beyond me with those whirling wings, I suppose card scraping is a possibility.

Minor tool bruising is becoming obvious as the water leaves and may need some attention in future, think these may be easier to address as a one time finish when dried, we shall see.


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## boysie39 (8 Jul 2011)

Chas I'm sure you have tried Abrenet does it make any differance at all ?. Some say it is very good for wet turning, I have never tried it .
REgards Boysie


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## CHJ (9 Jul 2011)

Yes Boysie, I do have Abranet, it is indeed easier to 'unclog' than solid abrasives, worst case you can wash it out, there was a time when I first acquired it when it became my first choice, like most new toys though it gradually found it's place amidst the other types.


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## CHJ (12 Jul 2011)

Another little Pot out of Beech, 85 mm dia, Pau Rosa Lid.


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## loz (12 Jul 2011)

The closeup shows the bead around the opening brilliantly - and made me drool..........

An idea i'm going to log if you don't mind Chas !. 

Lovely piece,


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## CHJ (12 Jul 2011)

loz":2nupn65k said:


> The closeup shows the bead around the opening brilliantly - and made me drool..........
> 
> An idea i'm going to log if you don't mind Chas !.
> 
> Lovely piece,



By all means Loz, if you find any other easy ways of locating/accommodating a vessel/lid join let me know.
Have wasted an awful lot of time in the past trying to be clever producing the perfect join only to find out a few days down the line, if not a few hours, that the wood has decided to do otherwise and completely ruin the piece. I now try and do something that is not so critical.

Even Chris Eagles was heard to say at the recent Peter Sefton demo that although little boxes sound good with a popping lid they are a real pain for anyone just trying to lift the lid to drop a trinket in.


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## Lightweeder (12 Jul 2011)

CHJ":2wzn7mq8 said:


> Even Chris Eagles was heard to say at the recent Peter Sefton demo that although little boxes sound good with a popping lid they are a real pain for anyone just trying to lift the lid to drop a trinket in.



Hmmm. Yes, it's true :?


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## CHJ (2 Aug 2011)

Just some time fillers in between trying to takle the "is it worth keeping" wood pile.

*Ash, 162mm.*





*Ash with Yew lid,, 85mm*







*Elm and Ash lid, 130mm*.


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## boysie39 (2 Aug 2011)

Chas, again some lovely pieces,what way did you finish the Elm piece Pls.

REgards Boysie


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## CHJ (2 Aug 2011)

boysie39":3p1ne98g said:


> Chas, again some lovely pieces,what way did you finish the Elm piece Pls.
> 
> REgards Boysie


Thanks Eugene, the Elm the same as the others, sanded to 240, sealed with cellulose sanding sealer and buffed with Chestnut mops, (Carnauba Wax Finish) 
I'm afraid most of the bits that have come out of the shop lately are rather basic and trivial, far from the "magazine" show case end of the spectrum, but they are what the recipients want and are to a large extent dependant upon the 'remainder' end of their wood pile, will be glad when some newer stock has had a chance to dry out.

Just thought these three were worth the image pixels.


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## johnny.t. (2 Aug 2011)

Nice NE Ash bowl Chas, can't say the other two are to my taste but there you go :lol: Finish looks up to your usual high standards. I find using up those odds and ends of timber quite therapeutic when I've done it before, there is lots of satisfaction in turning out several small, simple pieces 8)


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## CHJ (13 Aug 2011)

A variation on the segment count, with associated head scratching on the angles front.








Walnut and Oak with Sweet Chestnut base and rim. 180mm diameter.
Lid walnut and Ash.


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## Wood spoiler (13 Aug 2011)

Absolutely stunning.

I love the walnut panels on the sides particularly, but the whole thing looks great.

All finished superbly as is your trademark


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## CHJ (21 Aug 2011)

A bit of rotting Beech with a Yew Lid, which is a bit pale at the moment but should darken over time.




Ash oddment with a coloured Beech Lid


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## gus3049 (21 Aug 2011)

Hi Chas,

Veronica said immediately "what lovely pyro"  

I love the way the rot has worked out. The lid doesn't quite sit with me but as you say it may well darken down. It will be interesting to see if the basic colour changes though as thats what grates a little. Lovely shapes though.

I prefer the colour combo on the second.


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## CHJ (21 Aug 2011)

Yes the Yew lid does not sit well at the moment, could well get colourized soon to increase contrast, rather stuck for choice on wood for these as it has to come from same woodland source so can't use up any of the bits of walnut etc. I have spilling all over the place.


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## CHJ (21 Aug 2011)

OK, enough of the lack of contrast.


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## gus3049 (21 Aug 2011)

Dat woz quick :shock:


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## CHJ (22 Aug 2011)

Can I have some more Poo Stick Holders this afternoon please ?




Ash & Beech.


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## CHJ (4 Oct 2011)

A couple more boxes, with smaller radius swirl pattern lids.






Walnut, Oak & Sweet Chestnut (150mm. diameter)







Walnut & Beech (140mm. diameter)


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## CHJ (10 Oct 2011)

Four more swirly tops to finish off the current order.








Walnut Oak & Sweet Chestnut (145mm)








Oak, Sapele & Walnut(145mm)








Oak, Sapele & Walnut (150mm)








Oak, Sapele, Beech, Walnut (140mm)


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## johnny.t. (10 Oct 2011)

Nice job as usual Chas. By the use of such varied timbers I assume you are working your way through some kind of 'bits mountain'?
I think Oak and walnut would be my favourite combination for one of these. Surely the top one labelled Beech and Walnut contains Oak? :lol:


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## CHJ (10 Oct 2011)

Yes you are correct *johnny*, oak it is, I'll amend got a couple of the captions mixed up.

Yes I have a mountain of offcuts from a furniture manufacturer that a friend in the village passes on as too good for the wood burner.This is just a small sample that keeps spilling out of all the nooks and crannies that seemed the best place to put it at the time.


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## johnny.t. (10 Oct 2011)

Looks like you'll need to make a few more to get through that lot Chas :lol:


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## CHJ (24 Oct 2011)

Another Lidded Pot, or is it a bulbous box or just something to stick those bits and pieces in.






Beech, Walnut & Ash. 120mm diameter.


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## cornucopia (24 Oct 2011)

great work Chas - I really like the one's with the spiral effect on the lids =D>


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## CHJ (24 Oct 2011)

Thanks *George,* the mastering of getting the fit good enough with basic shop tools does give a bit more satisfaction than just turning out another lump of wood, guess it's my technical/engineering background coming out rather than art.
Folks will probably be sick of seeing the swirls long before I get bored with doing them.


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## CHJ (25 Oct 2011)

This mornings spin.







Beech and Walnut, 200mm diameter.


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## Lightweeder (25 Oct 2011)

I see you're getting the hang of it then, Chas ? :wink


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## CHJ (25 Oct 2011)

> I want a little box about 2" high and 3" round and it must have a Yew lid. Just plain sides.


Hmmm. might just have a couple of bits of your wood that might do.


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## CHJ (25 Oct 2011)

Lightweeder":8mqk9gy2 said:


> I see you're getting the hang of it then, Chas ? :wink



Starting to become a little easier LW, if I can get my head round picking the easier bits of wood to bash seven bells out of I might just take up this spinning lark as a hobby.


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## CHJ (27 Oct 2011)

Something a bit different in form.






Beech and Walnut, 220mm dia.


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## mark sanger (27 Oct 2011)

Hi Chas

I have been going back through this thread and your work is always of a very high standard. 

Lovely to see. Your segmented boxes are great and I love the bee hive shaped holder. In fact it is all lovely work.


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## CHJ (27 Oct 2011)

Thank you *Mark*, all my bits are of a utilitarian nature with not a great deal of artistic merit, but I like to take pride in finish, that being at least one aspect I might get credit for.


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## mark sanger (27 Oct 2011)

Hi Chas

This is the great thing about turning, some like making utility items some not. What I enjoy is seeing the varied skills that people use and the items they make. 

You can see that you take great pride in what you make and I enjoy looking at them. I have looked loads of times but never seem to comment so thought I aught to.

Looking forward to your next pieces.


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## CHJ (29 Oct 2011)

Down sizing a bit on this one and the next half dozen following a few requests.
Walnut and Oak 95mm dia.


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## CHJ (30 Oct 2011)

Just another to add to the collection.
Oak and Walnut, 95mm dia.


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## gus3049 (30 Oct 2011)

CHJ":e6ml27ez said:


> Just another to add to the collection.
> Oak and Walnut, 95mm dia.



I especially like the last two boxes as the colour gels for me better than some. As always, the workmanship is stunning but sometimes, especially when yew is involved, mixed with other woods, I feel that there is a mismatch in tone.

Just a nitpick of course. I expect its because my back hurts and I am jealous as I can't get to the lathe for at least another three weeks  

Your engineering background certainly shows in the precision and the care taken over the finish. My brother in law was a design engineer and he drives me barmy with his treble checking everything and then doing it again just to be sure. 

Me grasshopper.

However, I appreciate thats why we have stuff that actually works. Engineers are under appreciated and under valued I reckon.


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## CHJ (30 Oct 2011)

gus3049":5lt5kp6f said:


> .....I especially like the last two boxes as the colour gels for me better than some. .... but sometimes, especially when yew is involved, mixed with other woods, I feel that there is a mismatch in tone.
> ....



Unfortunately the contrast or complimentary colour blend aimed at does not always show until the finish is applied, and as that's some way down the production line it's too late to do much about it in most cases. Just have to try and remember for next time, then of course the other law of luck comes in to play and the next sample of wood looks totally different when finished.

On top of that the reflected light when photographing tells totally different stories to what the naked eye sees. 
In the last piece for instance the top looks almost black in comparison with the side sections in the image, but in practice, although a shade darker it is a near match for the side inserts when the light is hitting them from an obtuse angle. And the lid looks a shade lighter when viewed straight on.


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## CHJ (3 Nov 2011)

Another little Pot sans Lid.

Walnut and Oak, 115mm. dia.


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## CHJ (4 Nov 2011)

That's that little batch finished.






Walnut and Oak 110mm. dia.
.







Walnut and Oak 95mm. dia.
.







Walnut and Oak 95mm. dia.


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## Blister (4 Nov 2011)

Quite an impressive production line running chas 

Nice :mrgreen:


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## CHJ (4 Nov 2011)

They do keep going out of the door in 2's and 3's, seem to be favourites as xmas gifts.
Will have to go some to keep up with the wood supply though,






This lot was dropped off today just in case I had a use for it and an apology that "it's nearly all Walnut, Im afraid"


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## Jonzjob (4 Nov 2011)

There are two things that I wish Chas. One that I had know this forum before I moved over here, because it would have helped me a lot and a lot earlier and two that I had known that you were just down the road from Butterow! I think that we could have got on quite well?

Is there any chance that you could do a WIP of a box or 2? I for one would love to know how to get the precision that you get in them. They are really lovely and so well made and finished.

As for Gordon? He will sober up in a few weeks and be back at us again soon! Get well soon mate! 

I was told yesterday that I may need an op on my right hand? Just as well I'm ambidextrous with a glass ccasion5: 

Edit: - Oh, and a skew!


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## CHJ (4 Nov 2011)

Jonzjob":2cqa5g0b said:


> .....Is there any chance that you could do a WIP of a box or 2? I for one would love to know how to get the precision that you get in them.



Like this you mean

Dependant upon the batch numbers and how I feel on the day the Cole Jaws may get an airing instead of the glue blocks for the base and top preparation.


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## CHJ (4 Nov 2011)

When I'm into a batch then the rough turned bases and tops just get clamped up off the lathe, 


the box bases have a dovetail socket for mounting for 90% of the turning and finishing, with a final location on the box opening to remove the socket and finish the base. Done in batches so that chuck/jaw changes are kept to a minimum then finishing from glue up amounts to about 20 mins per item. Lids done in batches for the same reasons of limiting holding changes take about 10 mins each, most of that taking care to get fit matched to box with calipers.


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## Jonzjob (5 Nov 2011)

Thank you for the link Chas. I will have a good look at it when I get a mo! It looks good!


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## CHJ (5 Nov 2011)

Back to the rotten wood turning today for a change.







Spalted Beech 185x170mm
.






Spalted Beech 190x170mm


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## CHJ (12 Nov 2011)

Mark 2 of this idea, not sure it was worth the effort other than proving the fit of the pieces, turned out looking heavy visually to my eyes.
Need to resolve lighter looking form and simplify the assembly and machining to make them a satisfying repeat project.

Walnut and Ash 135mm diameter.


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## Melzy (12 Nov 2011)

Wow!!

Beautiful!! What do you finish all your pieces with??!! The mahogony is very dark!!
xx


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## CHJ (12 Nov 2011)

Finish: Sanded to 240 grit, cellulose sanding sealer, then with Chestnut Buffing System using Microcrystalline wax for final finish.


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## Jonzjob (12 Nov 2011)

Chas! Do you realise just what you are doing? I feel that I am going to have to have a look at doing something like your boxes and the pencil holder. That looks quite spectacular mate!

And there were eye just plodding along in my comfortable slot and now what :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


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## Silverbirch (12 Nov 2011)

Chas, despite your doubts, I think that looks just fantastic!

ian


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## Lightweeder (12 Nov 2011)

Chas, do you apply the wax to the piece between 2nd and 3rd buffing wheel ?


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## CHJ (12 Nov 2011)

Yes LW, just the lightest smear and wait a few minutes for the volatiles to dry out.
If the wood's rather open grained I like the look of a layer of carnauba wax first, my main finishing mop is 'contaminated' with both anyway.


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## Lightweeder (13 Nov 2011)

CHJ":u83ebwuq said:


> Yes LW, just the lightest smear and wait a few minutes for the volatiles to dry out.
> If the wood's rather open grained I like the look of a layer of carnauba wax first, my main finishing mop is 'contaminated' with both anyway.


Thanks. I usually skip the third wheel as it never seems to make much difference, but I'll try that.


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## CHJ (13 Nov 2011)

Lightweeder":1redfxcq said:


> Thanks. I usually skip the third wheel as it never seems to make much difference, but I'll try that.



Surprised you do not use or see a difference using the final soft wheel.

At the very least you should dress the third wheel with carnauba wax before using to add protection.
To spread the carnauba wax properly (get high enough friction temp) the piece should feel slightly warm as it passes through your hands having left the mop. (and your finger nails should be nicely polished :lol: )

Sequence:
First, course wheel, dressed with Brown Tripoli. To de-nib any blemishes and blend surplus sealer.
Second, medium wheel dressed with White Diamond. To clean off any brown deposits and add luster to the finish.
Third. Wheel dressed with Hard Wax (Carnauba), apply high gloss protective finish.

Alternate final stage: apply (just a smear) Microcrystalline wax to piece and wait for it to dry off a little (10-15 min) and buff with last wheel. Or do both of the above achieve maximum handling protection.


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## Lightweeder (13 Nov 2011)

Will give it another try - anything for a better finish  Thanks.


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## CHJ (19 Nov 2011)

Spin some Apple a Day to keep those turning blues away.
145mm Diameter.













145mm Diameter.


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## Elaine (19 Nov 2011)

I adore your work. All are Fab - u - lous. =D> =D>


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## CHJ (20 Nov 2011)

Another Lump salvaged from the debris that resulted from last weeks sorting of the long term storage piles.

Elm 175mm dia.


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## Jonzjob (20 Nov 2011)

That is a lovely bowl Chas! The grain is spectacular! I assume that the bottom photo is the underside? I have never seen anything quite like it.


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## CHJ (20 Nov 2011)

Jonzjob":frjxgtmb said:


> .... I assume that the bottom photo is the underside? I have never seen anything quite like it.



Yes John, just popped that view in to show main reason for bothering with the lump of wood, Elm can be very spectacular on the figuring front if you manage to get something from a branch area.
Not easy these days as most dies off before it gets much more than 200mm dia, then it's a case of trying to get it out of the hedgerows before it has rotted to far or ended up on a bonfire.


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## CHJ (21 Nov 2011)

Another hour pottering in the shed.
Apple, 115mm dia.


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## Jonzjob (21 Nov 2011)

You're getting good at this mate! :mrgreen: I like that!


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## CHJ (23 Nov 2011)

The only offering currently for public consumption out of todays efforts is this other small piece of Apple.

Again 115mm max dia.


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## Harlequin (23 Nov 2011)

lovely piece of elm
nice work as ever


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## CHJ (29 Nov 2011)

A little something that has been awaiting a companion for a flight back home for a little while now.

Irish Bog Oak and a bit of Hedgerow English Elm.


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## boysie39 (29 Nov 2011)

it travelled well on it's journey home and will be tresured for ever.
It's a lovely piece of turning and though the pictures look great in reality
it's beautiful.
Thank you Chas. it makes an old body feel good again.


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## loz (30 Nov 2011)

Thats a wonderful piece Chas, Seeing the insert in the 3rd photos shows the workmanship involved,

Super.

Loz

Eugene - i'm officially jealous !!!


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## boysie39 (30 Nov 2011)

Loz I may take it on a Nation wide tour
It's a hell of a piece.


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## farmerboyce (2 Dec 2011)

Chaz
I have been a member for some time, on mainly a "search & find" basis as i don`t feel that I have that much to contribute. But I have learnt so much by browsing this forum, and I thank everyone for that.
What I feel obligated to say, having seen your pieces, is that you inspire me, and probably others, to go that bit further and attempt the wow factor.
To be honest there are works shown on here that are outstanding in both their creativity and execution, but are bordering on artwork more than woodturning, some of which is beyond the scope of us mere mortals.
Your work however is something that (with lots of practice) can hopefully be achieved by many, in that it is beautiful in its simplicity, or maybe you make it look easy!!!! Whatever, I`m gonna have a go.
Thanks Chaz
Steve


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## CHJ (2 Dec 2011)

Steve, thank you very much, you have identified my reason for bothering to post images of my bits and pieces. If they give someone an idea or a vision they can improve on all the better.

Personally I like to keep things as simple as possible regarding design thought.
If I pick up a lump of wood nine times out of ten it dictates what I make, the only criteria being that I try and show the character of the wood to its maximum potential.
But regardless of whether it has just free flowed, my preference, or been dictated by a specific request, I have from the start been strict with myself that the finish should be the best I could achieve.

I am old enough to have had the benefit of seeing some real craftsmen producing outstanding work in facilities with no electricity and self made tools, so I'm afraid my workshop and tool selection is no more than absolutely necessary to do the job and it does not embarrass me that it is not the latest and shiniest on the block, just that it is serviced and adjusted to best of my ability. 
Neither does the fact that I 'do it my way' as opposed to the approved? method, as long as it's worked safely and finished well nobody but me is any the wiser when it's left the shed.


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## johnny.t. (3 Dec 2011)

CHJ":1wkgs19w said:


> Neither does the fact that I 'do it my way' as opposed to the approved? method, as long as it's worked safely and finished well nobody but me is any the wiser when it's left the shed.



Never met a turner with any other view than this yet! :lol:


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## wasbit (3 Dec 2011)

I have to say that I agree with farmerboyce's sentiments entirely & say a big thankyou to Chaz.

Just to add one point to Chaz's reply, established turners decide on what they want to make, then go to their woodpile & select a suitable piece, whereas a lot of new turners have no such stock thus when they get a piece of wood they wonder what they can make from it.

Regards
wasbit


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## farmerboyce (4 Dec 2011)

> I am old enough to have had the benefit of seeing some real craftsmen producing outstanding work in facilities with *no electricity *and self made tools


Chaz
please don`t tell me that you are are turning out these pieces on a pole lathe, and, if memory serves, in an odd hour here and there, :mrgreen: :mrgreen: 
atb
Steve

ps to wasbit
Aint that the truth, 100%


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## CHJ (4 Dec 2011)

farmerboyce":pj9gor86 said:


> ....please don`t tell me that you are are turning out these pieces on a pole lathe, and, if memory serves, in an odd hour here and there, :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
> Steve....


Not quite that basic Steve, old and thrifty on the equipment re-cycling front I may be, but long enough in the tooth not to have too many masochistic tendencies left.
I still remember the local village carpenter had a shed full of stuff running off an old lister engine via belts and an odd job guy who came round the farm in the late 40's who had a little lathe come grinding station in the back of his van driven by an old 1920's motorbike engine.

So I guess if I have to downsize to a mobile home in the future and go back somewhere near basics I could always go that route.


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## Silverbirch (4 Dec 2011)

> when they get a piece of wood they wonder what they can make from it.


Yes, but that`s part of the fun! :lol: 

Ian


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## Jonzjob (4 Dec 2011)

That Lister engine didn't have a lot of distance to cover from the maker did it Chas!!

I used to look after the Listers IBM computer, mainframe, for 12 or 15 years, but I was on holiday and miles away when they had their BIG fire! 'onest gov! I still have a couple of thousand of their punch cards they used to track the progress of all of their engines! Complete with the mag stipe across the bottom 8)


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## CHJ (4 Dec 2011)

Jonzjob":4rbg5gm7 said:


> That Lister engine didn't have a lot of distance to cover from the maker did it Chas!!


Guess not, although that one and all the other smaller ones we used for pumping water etc. were in Worcestershire.
One of my chores whilst playing around the farm was to make sure the single cylinder units were topped up with cooling water whilst the livestock water tanks were being filled from the brook.

There's one connected to a water pump abandoned in the corner of a field a couple of hundred yards or so from my place, I'd love to get my hands on it and re-furb but owner is quite content to let it lie there and rot.


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## Jonzjob (4 Dec 2011)

That is a great shame Chas! A rather large stick, or even better a few pints of Ulely Pigamortis may help. Just ask Chas at Uley?? If he is still brewing it for the season a couple of Oil of Uley perhaps?

There must be a way of saving such a bit of engineering?


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## bignomis (12 Dec 2011)

Chas
Up to now my visits to UK Workshop have been spent looking at "projects, tours & past mistakes" so for a change decided to look at wood turning and am so glad I did as I have found your posts so inspirational. It's not just your obvious skill and imagination but especially your willingness to share all your knowledge & techniques so openly which is a huge encouragement to those like me who would like to do more.
One thing in particular I would like to know and that is what glue do you use for glueing together components such as the individual blocks in your laminated swirl box? These seem such a good idea as it really pains me to put all my small offcuts on the woodfire.
Simon


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## CHJ (12 Dec 2011)

bignomis":17gxw3fj said:


> ......One thing in particular I would like to know and that is what glue do you use for glueing together components such as the individual blocks in your laminated swirl box? ......



For the bulk of work I now use Cascamite, on some smaller items I use Cyno Acrylate (super glue)
PVA works well as far as adhesion but I find it prone to creep and joins can be felt after a period of time due to wood movement.

The only reservations I have regarding Cascamite is in its keeping qualities.
Unless you are using large quantities then it is advisable to decant it (powder) into several smaller sealed containers to reduce the air/moisture exposure.

Note: if you are contemplating closed segment work it is essential that any wood used is fully seasoned/dried, use a piece with a moisture level much above 8% and sooner or later it will split or let go its bond.
Also let any glued construction acclimatize and let the glue moisture content disperse/equalise ** before final turning.

** CA items can be turned within minutes.


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## Linus (30 Oct 2020)

CHJ said:


> Very difficult to do by hand in solid wood if you want close joints, would be far more practical and a more stable job done with veneered MDF.
> 
> It would be virtually impossible to achieve the concave surface required with a standard spindle sander, no control of the precise radius and the drum would be too flexible.
> That's the only way I have come up with so far. I'm working on an alternate
> jig method but jigs tend to be rather restricting on component size.


Hi Chas

I know this is an old article but did you ever sort out a jig for cutting the swirls so as to avoid sanding to shape?

Linus


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## CHJ (30 Oct 2020)

Never managed to get anything more effective than the fixed radius sanding jigs *Linus, *tried several methods using routers but never came up with a jig frame rigid enough to achieved a consistent glue line profile.
Had resigned myself to seeing if I could get the accuracy and consistency good enough following the CNC router build, but that project has stalled somewhat due to other commitments. Have currently resurrected it and looking at a stand alone mini win 10 computer to run it so that I don't have to keep borrowing the laptop. That way at least I will be able to leave things loaded and ready to experiment further as and when I have a moment to tune into the software.


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## Linus (30 Oct 2020)

The reason I asked is because I saw the problem and basically, being a lazy person, I thought I could shorten the process. I found a method using a bandsaw jig I have already and tried it on a piece of scrapwood, result as shown below. Do you think that is close enough?


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## CHJ (30 Oct 2020)

That looks pretty good from just a bandsaw circle jig style cut, guess getting width perfect enough for no central 'clearance' hole may be a little more difficult, it's not easy to achieve consistently with my method either. 

But for most projects where a central knob or other feature is used that level of cutting accuracy is irrelevant.
Be interesting to see what the glue lines look like when turned and finished.

Good to see someone trying something different, personally I get as much satisfaction out of solving an oddball assembly method as the actual turning.


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## Linus (30 Oct 2020)

CHJ said:


> That looks pretty good from just a bandsaw circle jig style cut, guess getting width perfect enough for no central 'clearance' hole may be a little more difficult, it's not easy to achieve consistently with my method either.
> 
> But for most projects where a central knob or other feature is used that level of cutting accuracy is irrelevant.
> Be interesting to see what the glue lines look like when turned and finished.
> ...


Yes I do like a challenge! Now I have the method I intend to follow up with "proper wood" and see how it turns out. I actually drilled the central clearance hole out after cutting. The segments can be cut off one at a time if required to maintain a complete disc. It's just the last segment that gets difficult.


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## Linus (31 Oct 2020)

CHJ said:


> That looks pretty good from just a bandsaw circle jig style cut, guess getting width perfect enough for no central 'clearance' hole may be a little more difficult, it's not easy to achieve consistently with my method either.
> 
> But for most projects where a central knob or other feature is used that level of cutting accuracy is irrelevant.
> Be interesting to see what the glue lines look like when turned and finished.
> ...



Hi Chas
Found a different method for cutting the segments. Here they are straight off the bandsaw, no sanding. Cherry and Keruing. Not perfect but better. Still have the hole in the middle but that's going to be difficult to avoid if segments are to align, and as you say, academic if you have a button there. I'll post a pic after glue-up.


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## CHJ (31 Oct 2020)

Compliments on your Bandsaw skills, a little discrepancy between inner and outer radius? Blade thickness perhaps?


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## Linus (31 Oct 2020)

CHJ said:


> Compliments on your Bandsaw skills, a little discrepancy between inner and outer radius? Blade thickness perhaps?


Thank you. Yes, wasn't the most accurate, but I was working on a smaller radius so most of that should(?) disappear when glued up and cut to round. I was too busy exploring different ways of doing it . Voyage of discovery it seems! What I would like to say is thank you for the various WIPs you have posted as they are extremely informative and inspiring to say the least. Re the sawing, I transposed the circular cut to a linear cut (if that makes sense) so the number of segments is not limited (see picture). I think with care this should be capable of producing repetitive accurate segments. I think accurate layout may also help somewhat.


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## Cooper (1 Nov 2020)

Chaz, like many others on this thread I am in awe of your skill and range. I have looked on your website and seen even more brilliant pieces. I have a question how do you turn the bottoms of your pieces? They don't seem to have an undercut for the chuck to grip. I thought I had worked it out, that once you had finished the inside you turned it around and pressed it on a taper and held it in place with a pad on a live centre, so you could work on the foot. But looking at a piece made of apple that doesn't have a complete rim I can't see how that would stay on centre on a taper. If you had any pictures of how you hold the work would be really helpful.
Thanks
Martin


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## CHJ (1 Nov 2020)

Cooper said:


> I have a question how do you turn the bottoms of your pieces?


If you work your way through some of the WIP linked on my site you should see several methods dependant upon construct rim form, usually using Cole or wooden jaws.

However for Natural Edge items I try to a partially complete the base when forming the holding socket or spigot to aid tailstock support when finishing.

Although the 'Pot' is rather a crude form *This post from 2010 may help*


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## Cooper (1 Nov 2020)

CHJ said:


> Although the 'Pot' is rather a crude form *This post from 2010 may help*


Thanks, that is exactly what I was looking for. It answers my question.
There is crude and crude, I'd say yours was most accomplished compared to my crude!!
In the third picture on the top row you have the long jaws which fit inside the hole you have bored. I do a lot of turning between centres and sometimes want to work on a piece without the centre support. I have a patriot chuck which really isn't much good at holding a cylinder/bar as it doesn't have the depth. I have been wondering if some jaws like yours would be what I need. Do you find them sturdy enough to hold an unsupported piece?
Cheers
Martin


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## CHJ (1 Nov 2020)

Cooper said:


> ... I have a patriot chuck which really isn't much good at holding a cylinder/bar as it doesn't have the depth. I have been wondering if some jaws like yours would be what I need. Do you find them sturdy enough to hold an unsupported piece?
> ...



Mine are Axminster brand and I find them more than robust enough, obviously common sense needs to be applied but I have not managed to distort them to date.

*Here's a closer view of them* and as they are now used fitted to a *Axminster 125mm chuck*

Not sure Patriot make similar to fit their chucks, there may be some compatible ones from another retailer.


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## Linus (5 Nov 2020)

CHJ said:


> Compliments on your Bandsaw skills, a little discrepancy between inner and outer radius? Blade thickness perhaps?


Hi Chas
Still working on the swirls but waiting a better bandsaw blade from Tuffsaws before trying again. Meanwhile, I followed your WIP on boxes on your website and came up with this. Ash, purpleheart and oak. Not a patch on your standard but I'm quite chuffed with it. They say that imitation is the highest form of flattery


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## CHJ (5 Nov 2020)

Hope it gave you satisfaction in the making, simple segmentation to construct an item can add another level of interest and I found it a good way of improving turning skills, techniques, and lathe holding methods without undue repetition.
The fact it can reduce the costs of basic wood stocks being a bonus.


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## Linus (8 Nov 2020)

CHJ said:


> Hope it gave you satisfaction in the making, simple segmentation to construct an item can add another level of interest and I found it a good way of improving turning skills, techniques, and lathe holding methods without undue repetition.
> The fact it can reduce the costs of basic wood stocks being a bonus.


The price of timber........I'll say amen to that!


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## Linus (23 Nov 2020)

CHJ said:


> Hope it gave you satisfaction in the making, simple segmentation to construct an item can add another level of interest and I found it a good way of improving turning skills, techniques, and lathe holding methods without undue repetition.
> The fact it can reduce the costs of basic wood stocks being a bonus.


Hi Chas

Just a different tack on the swirly top!


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## Sandyn (23 Nov 2020)

Some really beautiful work!!


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## CHJ (23 Nov 2020)

Linus said:


> Hi Chas
> 
> Just a different tack on the swirly top!


Compliments on the segmented top, looks like you are now well and truly in the 'addicted' category.

You need to start posting in your own threads rather than your work getting lost in this old thread.


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## Linus (23 Nov 2020)

Sandyn said:


> Some really beautiful work!!


Thank you!


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## Linus (23 Nov 2020)

CHJ said:


> Compliments on the segmented top, looks like you are now well and truly in the 'addicted' category.
> 
> You need to start posting in your own threads rather than your work getting lost in this old thread.


I just wanted to say thank you for your guidance and the knowledge you shared.

I'll let you know when I get the swirl right!


----------

