# Shellac over epoxy resin?



## Wuffles (29 Jun 2016)

I've got some waxed "pieces" but I think I'd rather have something a little less fingerprinty and perhaps harder wearing. I've enquired with a few places before now about using various products and they've all said to steer clear of using over resin, so does anyone know if a simple shellac will work, or rub off.

Open to ideas on this, but it's mainly benches and coffee tables, so point me in a better direction if you can think of one.

Gracias.


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## ED65 (29 Jun 2016)

Bit confused, do I have it right that you have wax polish on top of something that has an epoxy finish? 

If that's right I'd take the wax off with white spirit or turps and leave the epoxy to itself. While you can put shellac on epoxy the epoxy itself should be far harder, plus it's waterproof and not sensitive to alcohol.


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## Wuffles (29 Jun 2016)

Sorry, my fault, didn't make it clear. This is for filled spots on bare wood using epoxy. So the bare wood needs something, the wax looks fine to be fair, but wanted something more hard wearing.


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## Wuffles (29 Jun 2016)

Like this (the black bit is epoxy resin with steel filings in it):


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## AJB Temple (29 Jun 2016)

I have used shellac over epoxy inlays on guitar heads and had no issues with it. Guitar heads do not get touched a lot though, so I can't really comment in durability, but my earliest one of these must be 30 years old and is still absolutely fine.


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## Wuffles (29 Jun 2016)

Taken under advisement, cheers.


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## profchris (29 Jun 2016)

I've pore filled a ukulele with epoxy and then put shellac on top - seems fine several years later, and the body gets some wear, so no adhesion issues.

But I think wear on benches would be hard on shellac.

How about two wash coats of shellac over the epoxy and then poly varnish over the shellac?


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## Wuffles (29 Jun 2016)

Yes, getting something to stick to the epoxy and remain there is what most of the manufacturers I've spoken with don't want to commit to.


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## ED65 (29 Jun 2016)

That looks great Wuffles, super job on the epoxy fill.

Although I like wax a lot I'm not a fan of it by itself on bare wood. And shellac makes wood look fab, with much better enhancement of chatoyance, so if it were me I'd definitely be applying at least a couple of coats of shellac even if I intended to wax the entire thing as the last step.


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## ED65 (29 Jun 2016)

Wuffles":983cv4mq said:


> Yes, getting something to stick to the epoxy and remain there is what most of the manufacturers I've spoken with don't want to commit to.


Not their area so they don't want to stick their necks out more than likely. 

Given the wide use of epoxy fills on modern furniture I think the jury is in that shellac, varnish and lacquer will all bond to it just fine.

The only time I think you'd have a big problem with adhesion is if it was dead smooth (directly from the pour) or polished up, but as long as it has a scratch pattern on it from the sanding process that's plenty for a film finish to cling to.


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## Wuffles (29 Jun 2016)

Recipe for wash coats of shellac please lads and/or ladies - and make it as dumb as you can for a butcher like myself. I'm looking at off the shelf gear from somewhere like Rest Express or Wood Finishes Direct. Little items in carts with both of them so would prefer to add to those.


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## Wuffles (29 Jun 2016)

That was lazy, sorry. I should put it this way instead.

In my cart on Wood Finishes (for AGES) I have had Manns Shellac Sanding Sealer and Manns Wax and Polish remover, is this the same kind of shellac thing as you're recommending? Or should I be buying something more scientific.

Cheers.


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## ED65 (30 Jun 2016)

Almost all finishing professionals recommend buying shellac in dry form and mixing your own in smallish quantities since it ages once made up into a liquid and eventually goes off. But obviously it's still very common for woodworkers to buy pre-made shallac products and they work well most of the time. With commercial shellacs I think it comes down to how old the stuff in the tin is, so buying from a place that has a decent turnover is often advised.

The Mann's sanding sealer might be fine to use as a finish and not merely as a sanding sealer but it would be good to find out what cut it is so you know what you're working with. I found out recently that the sanding sealer I was using was a 4lb cut, which is very heavy, not the dilute version I had assumed it must be. 

Once you know the cut of what you have you can then dilute to get to a lighter cut if needed.








Wuffles":3bwe2mex said:


> Manns Wax and Polish remover


That might be little more than white spirit! It's difficult to thoroughly remove wax from bare wood, but all you need to dissolve wax is white spirit or turpentine. Use plenty of it and change paper towels or cloths frequently.


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## profchris (30 Jun 2016)

I've used pre-mixed French polish from the local ironmongers with no problems, and it seems to last about a year after opening before I start to suspect it might not be at its best. Various colours available including clear (usually a few pounds more expensive).

A wash coat for me is simply a wiped on coat (using a paper towel). Sand back very lightly as it raises the grain slightly, then repeat. If it's a warm and dry day you can wipe a coat on after breakfast and it will be dry enough to sand lightly and apply the second coat after lunch. On a humid day I'd leave it overnight between coats, mainly because it won't sand that well.

Shellac sanding sealer is probably fine too, but I'd thin it with meths (the purple doesn't stain the wood or affect the colour).


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## Wuffles (30 Jun 2016)

That's the spirit chaps, I'll bear in mind that it has a potential life span - although the three items I am going to do at once are reasonably large so I doubt there'd be much left from a pre-mixed pot.

Fear of the unknown on my part (as usual) with the mixing and what not.


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## rob. (3 Jul 2016)

The stuff you buy in the shops is basically the stuff you make your self, the difference being you have more control with the stuff you make your self.
If making your own keep it well away from any moisture, especially the stored flakes or buttons, moisture will destroy it leaving a polish that can refuse to set properly.


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## mahomo59 (4 Jul 2016)

Dan you are welcome to Earlex sprayer from Bristol Dan if you want it. I'll give you clear and coloured WB lacquer you can practice with.


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## Wuffles (4 Jul 2016)

mahomo59":13t48rfv said:


> Dan you are welcome to Earlex sprayer from Bristol Dan if you want it. I'll give you clear and coloured WB lacquer you can practice with.


I've already got the Earlex hiding in the shed*, used it a couple of years ago and haven't been back. I will steal a bit of the lacquer when I see you though. Still good this week?

*one of them, somewhere


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