# Best finish for exposed pine floorboards?



## richardbell81

Hi there,

I know this topic has been covered before but I suppose i'm after a few more up to date and definitive responses! We've just bought our first house and i've exposed the floorboards which i'm planning on sanding this weekend.

So... would everyone recommend a water based, poly based or hard wax finish? The products i've been looking at so far are...

1. Wickes' Satin floor varnish (Water based)
2. Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Varnish Satin (Water based?)
3. Liberon High Resistance Floor Varnish Clear Satin (Poly Based)
4. Finney’s Hardwax Varnish (Water based)
5. Osmo Polyx Oil

I've attached a picture of the finish i'm after. Any advice and your experience would be hugely appreciated as it's my first time doing this job!

Thanks in advance!


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## richardbell81

Did some further research at lunch... am i right in thinking that water based varnishes don't last very long and oil based ones are yellowing? If so, then that leaves me with either a hardwax or a Polyurethane based finish?

So many choices!


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## bosshogg

Or shellac!
Shellac can either be clear, golden brown, dark brown stain to the wood, very pleasing in my opinion, it can be patched in in the future, as a re-coat/patch coat reactivate's the original. It's fast drying, takes a bit of abuse without loosing it's appearance, shows the grain of the wood at it's best...bosshogg


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## richardbell81

Thanks for the response. I didn't realise you could use shellac on floorboards? As I'm not that familiar with applying shellac I may be tempted to go with something else but I will look into it as its not something I'd considered!


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## t8hants

I can confirm the water based dyes and varnishes are useless, I put new boards down with three coats of stain, and five of varnish, and it wore off in heavy use areas in 18 months. I do hope the shellac suggestion works to fill in the patches as the thought of sanding the whole floor and starting again is very depressing.  

Gareth


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## SeanJ

i'd personally steer clear of shellac for a floor finish, i realise it comes in many mixtures but you'll be recoating again in no time. I can only say i've used a water based product called Enduro from Morrells with good results, it was a simple double application to sanded oak so no staining/colouring was employed. Shellac is not waterproof/heatproof/solventproof etc though manufacturers produce many modified shellac type finishes. 

If i had some tricky pine i might use a water stain after thorough meticulous sanding, forget the colron or white spirit based dyes. Then on with some finish with a different base (2pack lacquer/2pack polyurethane etc.. whatever) - so as not to liven/float your stain. Liberon do some nice colours with their pigmented water range (off the shelf) so you could easily test some, as some pines look soapy and flat, they need that pigment wash however sublte IMO. 

Hope that may help . 

Sean


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## bosshogg

Based on some information given, You might care to look at this http://prairiebox.blogspot.com/2006/07/shellac-and-floor-sanding-madness.html...bosshogg  


> "Be a first rate version of yourself, not a second rate version of someone else."
> 
> Judy Garland.


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## richardbell81

Thanks for all the info bosshogg but I think i'm going to go for something like the osmo polyx oil... it seems to get generally good reviews on here. Like any project, there are just so many products to choose from that it's difficult to know where to start!


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## mickthetree

I'd go with the Osmo personally. It can be reapplied without sanding int he future. My brother in law did his pine floorboards in it recently and it looks great.

Have you sanded a floor before? The number of people who have tried to do theirs and say "the machine didnt work" later to find out they were going with the grain.

If the floor is in poor condition, get some 80 grit belts or even 60 delivererd with the machine and start by going across the grain. Then 120 across the grain till the big scratches are removed, then 120 with the grain to remove those scratches and it'll be as good as new.

It will remove a good few mm but there is no point just giving them a light rub down.

This is what a flooring expert told me and it worked perfectly on our old pine floorboards.

Sorry if you already knew this.


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## SeanJ

that's interesting about going cross grain with the boards, i'll try and remember that, thanks.


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## Cambridgewood

I've just done my floors using ronseal trade wax oil satin finish. Does not yellow like varnish, touch dry in 20 mins and light traffic after 2 hours. At least 2 coats needed after finishing with floor sander at 120g. The best finish I've ever achieved!


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## neilyweely

Hi. Has anyone tried Sadolin PV67? Used for dancehalls and restaurants. I used it last year on an Indian restaurant floor and it seems to be great. Amazed no-one else has mentioned it. Oh yeah, wear a mask.
Hope this helps
Neil


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## Sophie

I am also exposing my old pine floorboards (1930s, some in quite good condition but hall is quite dark and dirty looking and a lot of paint to remove). We're commencing sanding this weekend so I need to hurry up and buy a finish.

I can't decide between varnish and hard wax oil - my dad is convinced varnish is better and more hard-wearing, but I'm concerned that it's harder to apply and might look rubbish in the end, and then the only way to fix it is to resand the whole floor - and beings as neither of us have waxed or varnished a floor before there's a good chance we might make mistakes!

I'll be doing the whole house - so floors, landing, lounge, bedrooms etc. Perhaps the kitchen eventually too (but not a huge concern for now).

So my questions are...

Is varnich difficult to apply and get a good finish for a novice?
Is hard wax oil hardwearing enough for a hall?
Which looks nicer?
Is varnish more likely to go orange?
In the case of hard wax oil, is it a good idea to get one with colour in it to avoid orangeness?

Thanks!!!


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## bosshogg

Sophie":3lkavnx5 said:


> I am also exposing my old pine floorboards (1930s, some in quite good condition but hall is quite dark and dirty looking and a lot of paint to remove). We're commencing sanding this weekend so I need to hurry up and buy a finish.
> 
> I can't decide between varnish and hard wax oil - my dad is convinced varnish is better and more hard-wearing, but I'm concerned that it's harder to apply and might look rubbish in the end, and then the only way to fix it is to resand the whole floor - and beings as neither of us have waxed or varnished a floor before there's a good chance we might make mistakes!
> 
> I'll be doing the whole house - so floors, landing, lounge, bedrooms etc. Perhaps the kitchen eventually too (but not a huge concern for now).
> 
> So my questions are...
> 
> Is varnich difficult to apply and get a good finish for a novice?
> Is hard wax oil hardwearing enough for a hall?
> Which looks nicer?
> Is varnish more likely to go orange?
> In the case of hard wax oil, is it a good idea to get one with colour in it to avoid orangeness?
> 
> Thanks!!!


As your hall is quite dark, as you say, then the sanded/exposed pine should not darken as quickly pine exposed to direct sunlight, depending on which pine will depend very much on it's colour/darkness.
As for applying whatever varnish, the worry tends to be far worse than the experience. Remember to start where you can end without trapping yourself!
By the way, you can apply both, first seal with varnish (polyurethane, acrylic or whatever) then apply the wax for a soft lustrous shine, but beware of any poss of slipping whatever you do. You can bye antislip wax for floors online...bosshogg


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## mickthetree

I'd get myself to a local hardware store. They should have some examples of the different finishes on display. Ours does.

I read more and more about how great Osmo is. THe trouble is you are in a rush, otherwise I would do a test patch in an inconspicuous are using both.


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## Sophie

Aha, thanks. I actually meant the floorboards in the hall are dark (the hall itself isn't that bright either) but I don't know if they'll be a lot lighter after sanding them.

The bedroom floorboards are quite clean and much lighter, and the room is quite light - there's a big bay window- would they be in danger of going orangy without some colour on them?

I like the idea of varnish + wax, I guess as pine is soft it might need the protection of the varnish?

Thanks again!!


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## Sophie

Mickthetree - just saw your message, good idea on the hardware shop.

If I find somewhere locally that sells a wide range I could get a couple of testers and test it this weekend, I'll see if I can find anywhere - most of the places I've found so far are internet retailers.


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## mickthetree

You'll probably pay full whack at a local hardware store, but if you take in a print out of a price you have seen online they will normally match it (minus the cost of delivery).


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## Sophie

When you say hardware store do you mean big chains like Selco, or smaller independent places? I'm not really sure where there is around here (Brum) other than Selco/Screwfix etc. Found a place called Castle Hardware on the net but it seems to only sell Ronseal.

Ta


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## mickthetree

No, it would most likely be an independent. How about a timber merchant? they will sell osmo and varnish as well. My local one has some example finish boards on display. They will well placed to give you advice on it as well.

Maybe these guys??

http://www.wheelerstimber-builders.co.u ... ducts.html

Never heard of them, just a google search.


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## Sophie

Ace, thank you - I'll try searching for that and see what there is.

My Mom has now also looked into it and also thinks I should do varnish, so I might go for that to avoid family discord... :wink: 

She also suggested Ronseal Diamond Hard floor finish which was mentioned earlier in the thread.


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## AnselmFraser

If you`ve got the nerve no finish at all is the best ,saves time and money; pine is too soft too dye ,it scratches and shows the white wood under the stain. If it is new pine ANY finish that you put on WILL wear through on heavy traffic areas .Old pine is harder and you could take one of the above suggestions. WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU PUT NO FINISH ON-It becomes the same as it would in the heavy traffic areas but matches all over the floor . A pine floor with no finish on, you scrub with bleach 4 times in the first year and then YOU have a finish , ie; dirt that improves with age


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## Judy Brunton

Hi. Its been a few years but can you please tell me how it went? 
I'm about to get sample pots of Osmo hard wax oil and Fiddes 

what did you use and what do you recommend?


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## Bm101

Judy Brunton":8wqpdz7r said:


> Hi. Its been a few years but can you please tell me how it went?
> I'm about to get sample pots of Osmo hard wax oil and Fiddes
> 
> what did you use and what do you recommend?


If it's any help Osmo has a very good reputation Judy. I used it on my own repaired oak floor and after a year or two (with young kids) it looks great. Easy to apply and also easy to patch repair. (So if you need to sand a small area back and refinish due to some minor catastrophe the osmo will take it, a varnish will not as far as I understand.) Wouldn't hesitate to recommend it. Lots of people use as a a finish for furniture, cabinets, various projects they make. It's a good product. I believe the fiddes is also good but I have no personal experience. Do a search on here for Osmo and you will find lots of threads.


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