# Garage Conversion to Workshop - Extraction Completed



## Vinny (6 Aug 2009)

I've made reference to my garage to Workshop/Utility room build on other threads and have promised a WIP, so here it is.

Bought our first house after leaving the RAF (22 years) last October, one of the main selling points for me was the tandem double garage that was destined to be a workshop as soon as I saw it, like all great plans this changed to a utility room, downstairs throne room and a workshop (albeit smaller than I first thought).

Utility room because the kitchen wasn't big enough for washing machine, tumble drier and swmbo's collection of freezers.

Downstairs throne room because "apparently" I don't smell too sweet in the morning"

Workshop because in my time with the RAF all of my projects have been carried out on a B and D workmate with a variety of hand power tools and its always been something I wanted.

So this is pretty much what I had to play with, the previous occupant had wired it very badly, choc block and bell wire on one end of the scale for the hanging light bulbs and 5 amp flex on the other end for the 2 sockets. :shock: 

Note new axi SCMS on table - first new toy








This window would have to go because it would span the parti wall for the throne room.






So submission of a form and 170 sheets to Building Control and I was off to Travis Perkins for a roof rack full of CLS and a few rolls of DPM. Its probably worth mentioning here that the submission and approval of the building notice was really easy, fag packet sketch of what I was doing passed for a plan and regular visits from a building control bloke kept me on the straight and narrow. the "bloke" was really helpful, pointed me in the right direction on several bits and answered all my questions without even a hint of "muppet" in his replies :wink: . However he did spec celotex for all the wall, floor and roof insulation and its not cheap, in fact it accounted for over half the utility room build cost.

This was the first time I'd tackled anything constructional on this scale so it was a learning process in places, ie, i won't put noggins on the brick wall studs again as it's a pipper to route cables when wiring the sockets.











Window removed.






Getting ready for the new UPVC window, my first ever attempt at any kind of brick/block work and I was pretty chuffed with the result.






Life lesson learn't at this stage, do not let your 13 old daughter borrow your camera without first backing up the pictures, one click of the delete key and all my photo's hit the ether, never to return. 
So the rest of the utility build WIP was lost. It all went OK, putting the soil pipe in for the toilet was a PITA due to a 9 inch concrete oversite that pretty much ran the entire length of the pipe, blisters, calouses and a rather blunt coal chisel later and it was in. Electrics were done by me and signed off by a local firm. Plumbing again done by my own fair hand. Building control was happy and signed the project off.
This is the finished utility room complete with what has been dubbed "dads purple poo palace" owing to the fact that the only paint I had that wasn't magnolia was some purple funky paint left over from a feature wall in my youngest daughters room.












Now onto the workshop.

the utility room had effectively cut space to dump stuff by a third and I was now left with this to try and fashion a workshop from. New TS200 TS still in box somewhere amongst the melee






A fair amount of ruthless chucking away and a miltary style mission to secrete non woody stuff round the house and I was left with this.

TS now assembled, floor installed (heeded advice gleaned from another thread on here, wooden floors are kinder to dropped chisels than concrete ones)






The mission to hide the non woody stuff round the house had failed, it all eventually ended up back in the workshop. My only concession (at time of writing :? ) was to build a big cupboard in which to keep all the rubbish. I decided on putting it behind the door as it would cause least inconvenience to me, although it transpires that swmbo isn't best chuffed with its location because closing a door to open a cupboard door ranks right up there with having your ears ripped apart by rabid weasels !! ho -hum, never mind eh.











Next I needed somewhere to put my bench grinder and engineers vice (I sometimes get the urge to thrash things wildly with big hammers until they bend or break) It also served as a prototype for the rest of the bench which is to follow. Its made out of 18mm shuttering ply with a 11 mm ply top. Its worked ok but I think the rest of the benches will be shuttering ply topped off with 18mm mdf to make the whole kit and caboodle a bit more "dense" - important when youre in ball pain hammer mode. It will also serve as a height datum for all the other fittings in the workshop.






Table saw assembled with dust extraction fitted  The dust extraction will be upgraded to something green and sucky from yandles very soon.






Before I bought the TS200 I was thinking of getting one of the bigger 10" Axi saws, glad i didn't as this one takes up more room than I thought. Its a good little unit, perfect for what I need. A little bit of fettling and it cuts straight and square. I don't think the blade is of the highest quality but having nothing to compare it to it'll do for the time being, ripping chunks out of OSB, shuttering ply and mdf. When it comes to nearer the time for replacement I'll ask on here for reccomendations.

The TS200 is a bit wee for full 8 x 4 sheets so I knocked this up to fill the void. it needs a couple more slots to fit the CLS to cater for different sheet size and cut width but I'll do those as and when I need them.






Walls were battened and covered with OSB, this was duly painted with masonry paint (tip from Wizer on another thread I think) Sockets fitted (4 doubles on each wall) and lighting added to - now 5 52w strips with seperate switches for the centre one and the 4 outside (over bech) ones.
Its very bright with all the lights on and the white walls - top tip from here again.











Thats all for the time being - next 5 days at work :evil: so little progress expected.

Please feel free to comment on anything, good or bad (though I prefer good)

Next steps are to build the units and bench, build in the TS to include an outfeed table, fit some dust extraction, get rid of the Axi router table and build one in next to the TS. 

Hope you enjoyed what seems like my life story, will post again when next milestone is reached or breached.

Cheers

Vinny


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## Shultzy (6 Aug 2009)

Great post Vinny, but what about the roof space. That need filling with insulation to keep the shop cozy.


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## big soft moose (6 Aug 2009)

Shultzy":2f8jsrlm said:


> Great post Vinny, but what about the roof space. That need filling with insulation to keep the shop cozy.



or boarding out as an attic for wood storage


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## big soft moose (6 Aug 2009)

Vinny":3nl2f458 said:


> The mission to hide the non woody stuff round the house had failed, it all eventually ended up back in the workshop. My only concession (at time of writing :? ) was to build a big cupboard in which to keep all the rubbish.



tactical error there mate - you should have insisted all the rubbish went in the utility room. when you were fitting it out


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## Vinny (6 Aug 2009)

I did think about insulating the ceiling/roof but decided against it for 2 reasons:

1. I can store 2.4m lengths of timber no problem between the rafters

2. Not quite sure how much life there is left in the felt on t'other side of the boards. I'd like to know that there was a leak by noticing a dark stain rather than finding half the roofing felt and shingle dumped over a still drying project on the bench.

as for the cold - easy cure, put a jumper on :wink:


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## wizer (6 Aug 2009)

Looks like you are really cracking on there Vinny. For a replacement blade you want a Freud LP40M 016 200mm Dia 30mm Bore and 40 teeth. I have just bought one from http://www.wentinfasteners.co.uk (you have to call or email). Cost £18.90 +V.A.T Plus Postage £3.50 +V.A.T


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## cutting42 (7 Aug 2009)

Nice job and similar in concept to my wksp. Like the cupboard, Might have to make covers/doors for my shelves as they are still collecting dust despite dust collection.


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## TrimTheKing (7 Aug 2009)

Looking good vinny. Painting the walls makes a hell of a difference.

Looking forward to seeing it progress.

Nice TS extraction btw


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## woodbloke (7 Aug 2009)

Vinny - lots of good progress on the 'shop...don't forget to PM when you're passing thru' town :wink: - Rob


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## Vinny (12 Aug 2009)

Bit of progress over the past couple of days. Got the plinth down for the cupboards/drawer units and the centre island for the built in TS and Router table. Just got to wait for my "pocket money" before I can order some more ply and some mdf to finish it off.
TS will come off the stand and be built in to the island unit.







First cupboard / drawer unit, costructed from shuttering ply, pocketholed and glued, it may only be a workbench but thought it'd be the ideal time to practice with pockethole joinery. The LHS aperture is deliberately smaller, RHS is for a drawer unit.






On the subject of "pocketholing" I bought the APTC jig, seems to work perfectly well, havn't seen or used a Kreg so no way of comparing. The jig came with a selection of screws which are now depleted. Can anyone recommend a good supplier, APTC stock a lot but just wondered if anyone knows of a supplier who does anything other than Kreg (they seem to be top dollar).

Cheers

Vinny


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## MickCheese (13 Aug 2009)

Nice build.

On the subject of your pictures they are recoverable provided they have not been overwritten by new pictures. Some cameras don't use the used space until the end so your old pictures could still be there.

It is only the index that is deleted. There is software available to rebuild the index and then you have the photo's back.

Mick


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## wizer (13 Aug 2009)

Vinny why on earth have you put the TS on a plinth??


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## Vinny (13 Aug 2009)

Mick

tried that, unfortunately the photos were on my "back up" 1 gig card, daughter borrowed the camera for a school project and took enough hi res pictures to fill the whole card.


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## Vinny (13 Aug 2009)

Wizer, thats only its temporary home. The TS will come off the stand and get built in at the same level as the rest of the bench. going to ditch the rather warped mild steel side table and replace with a thick mdf one which will also (eventually) double as a router table. Had to put the TS somewhere that i could use it to build the rest of the units, also putting it there gave me an idea of its final position - had to allow enough space to feed full sheets through the garage door

vinny


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## wizer (13 Aug 2009)

ah ok, I would bring it to the front edge of the plinth tho. I can see you tripping and splitting your face in two... :shock:


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## Vinny (13 Aug 2009)

wizer":15xr3lsu said:


> ah ok, I would bring it to the front edge of the plinth tho. I can see you tripping and splitting your face in two... :shock:



noted, thankyou


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## Vinny (10 Sep 2009)

managed to get all the "important" jobs cracked over the past week or so - also managed to fit a week in majorca into the schedule, so it was back to the ply and mdf.
All cabs built and a layer of 18mm ply topped with 18mm mdf added, even swmbo thinks it looks good :shock: 











Shelves and doors to follow next week.

One question to throw open to the "floor" - is there anything that i should be using on/treating the mdf with or will it be ok in its raw state (the mdf is standard - not the green stuff). 

Cheers

vinny


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## msh10 (16 Sep 2009)

V nice setup, just a note about insulating the roof, if the walls are now insulated you have created a cold spot in the roof so you will have condensation dripping down onto the nice new kit. (I found out the hard way insulated the walls and not he roof, spent ages cleaning all of the kit and then insulate the roof)


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## OPJ (16 Sep 2009)

MDF should be okay on its own, as long as it doesn't get damp or wet... For reassurance, you could treat it with a couple of coats sealer or oil finish. Rustins' do an excellent water-based sealer, specifically for MDF. All the other sealers (cellulose, spirit-based, etc.) would need to be thinned considerably for the first coat at least. It's the same with oil; MDF will soak it up like a sponge! Again, you can thin most oils (Danish and linseed) with turpentine or even white spirit.

One the best ways to prevent unnecessary swelling or damage is to lip all exposed edges with solid wood; biscuit-jointed or simply glued on and mitred at the corners. Alternatively, a weak PVA-solution can be used to some effect.


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## Vinny (18 Sep 2009)

msh

The walls are best described as "covered" rather than insulated, just OSB screwed onto battens.

OPJ

Thanks for that, I found some wax in B and Q which had been reduced so am in the process of applying it, like you say the mdf is drinking it at the mo but another couple of coats should see it right.

Cheers

Vinny


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## Vinny (30 Sep 2009)

At last the extraction has been "revamped" from the method posted earlier in this thread  

I got a twin motor Camvac from Yandles (very helpful bunch of blokes in there, my first dealings with them and certainly not my last)







After talking through my requirements with the Yandles guys I went for a 2.5" rather than a 4" as its only servicing my TS, SCMS and router table (when its made)

I also got the blast gates and a fistful of adaptors at the same time. I thought that the Camvac pipe and fittings were a wee bit on the pricey side so opted to plumb everything in using plastic rain water pipe, reducing where neccesary to fit the machinery and blast gates. As it turned out the internal diameter of the rain pipe was a smidge bigger than the external diameter of the blast gate flanges, a decent squeeze of silicon sealant did the job admirably.

In order to keep suction to a maximum I put the blast gates as close to the extractor as possible, in my mind vacuum would be "wasted" if it were trying to suck along lengths of pipe that wern't in use (if that makes sense :roll I also needed a way of connecting the 3 gates to the inlet hose - voila:






system works really well with massive suction. Apparently suction is lost on 90 degree bends and tees so I made my own elongated 90's by cutting the pipe at 22.5 on the scms and joining with insulation tape (all the fittings are well wound with tape)

the pipe work is all under the bench in a void which really wasn't usable, however I can see it becoming the offcuts area and general dumping ground.











I wanted to have the TS guard serviced from above so branched off the main run with some 32mm waste pipe, took it up the wall, across a rafter and dropped it with some reinforced hose. I was worried that reducing down to 32mm would reduce the suction but it works perfectly.






The hose for the connection to the SCMS was courtesy of the electrical skip at the local council tip, the adapter on the bench top is from the dust collection bag off of a bosch electric plane.






There is a third outlet for the router table but as thats not been built yet its redundant at the mo.



Vinny


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## Chems (30 Sep 2009)

Looks brilliant vinny. So that Camvac is really the business then?


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## jedmc571 (1 Oct 2009)

Nice one Vin !

I bet you're missing the plastic bag eh !

Bit of RAF ingenuity came into play there ( where's the pine poles )

It loooks good, soon be right for winter.

"Toodle pip ginger"

Jed


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## Vinny (1 Oct 2009)

Chems

The Camvac is the dogs danglies, loads of suction and surprisingly quiet. The other benefit (as pointed out by Yandles) is that if desired you could attach a hose to one of the outlets and use it to blow - handy prior to applying a finish. The exhaust air is also quite warm so heats up the workshop nicely, I'm thinking of perforating the bench top above the unit to allow the warm air to circulate.

Jed

LOL - RAF ingenuity - theres 2 words you don't often find in the same sentance. No, it can't have been RAF ingenuity because I didn't have to account for all my hours on a 707, I didn't have to sign any orders or attend a briefing and i was able to finish the job without get pulled off it half way though to cover an orderly sgt or guard commander because someone had "gone sick"

remind me again why I left the mob - oh yeah see above :wink: 

As for pine poles - I built a tripod so that i could sit on top and take the pictures - the old saying is still true, if all else fails - build a tripod !!

Tally ho

Vinny


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## woodbloke (1 Oct 2009)

Vinny":qrpuksxn said:


> Chems
> 
> The Camvac is the dogs danglies, loads of suction and surprisingly quiet. The other benefit (as pointed out by Yandles) is that if desired you could attach a hose to one of the outlets and use it to blow - handy prior to applying a finish. The exhaust air is also quite warm so heats up the workshop nicely, I'm thinking of perforating the bench top above the unit to allow the warm air to circulate.
> 
> ...


V - looks an excellent set up...told you the Camvac is the dg's! I need to do a similar sort of thing later on with my 386 when my machinery is upgraded. Attaching a hose(s) to the exhaust ports on top of the machine cuts the racket down by well over half. Fantastic bit of kit :lol: 

Least in the RAF you learn how to walk sideways :lol: - Rob...already ducking and moving for the door!


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## jedmc571 (1 Oct 2009)

> Least in the RAF you learn how to walk sideways :lol: - Rob...already ducking and moving for the door!



Yeah but I always get looked at suspiciously when walking round shops, do they suspect I'm a thief :lol: 

Being called a crab is normally an Army thing, are you previously part of the Green Machine Rob?

Vin, do you know if Camvac are suitable for Planerthicknesser shavings?
I like the size of them, and a litle fotprint ( I need that in a 17 X & garage  )

Chocks away..........


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## jedmc571 (1 Oct 2009)

woodbloke":33ad2jrr said:


> Vinny":33ad2jrr said:
> 
> 
> > Chems
> ...



Yeah but I always get looked at suspiciously when walking round shops, do they suspect I'm a thief :lol: 

Being called a crab is normally an Army thing, are you previously part of the Green Machine Rob?

Vin, do you know if Camvac are suitable for Planerthicknesser shavings?
I like the size of them, and a litle fotprint ( I need that in a 17 X & garage  )

Chocks away..........


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## Vinny (1 Oct 2009)

Jed

Yes it'd be ideal, I wouldn't go for anything less than the twin motor though. I went for the 2.5" inlet pipe on advice from simon at Yandles because I wasn't connecting it to P/T, in your case 'cos you are then you're better off going for the 4". Best advice would be to give yandles a bell and explain what youre connecting to, they'll then be able to advise accordingly.

Smoke me a kipper I'll be back for breakfast.

Vinny


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## cornucopia (2 Oct 2009)

hello Vinny looks like your getting on great- i have two camvac machines and would advise that if the machine is staying there long term you shorten the flex so that its not coiled up getting hot- and definatley earth all of your ducting as static can build and cause fire or even in extreme case's explosion when mixed with fine sanding dust.
best wish's
george


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## woodbloke (2 Oct 2009)

jedmc571":2advgqb8 said:


> > Least in the RAF you learn how to walk sideways :lol: - Rob...already ducking and moving for the door!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



No, but I work with them in my day job - Rob


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## Vinny (2 Oct 2009)

Cornucopia and anyone else who may know.

What would be the best method of earthing the pipe ?
Would bonding the pipe to the earth of one of the workshops sockets suffice or am I inviting disaster doing it that way, also is a single bonding point per pipe run sufficient or would several be better. Lastly what would be the best method of attaching the bonding to the pipe, I was thinking of baring enough cable to wrap around the pipe and then simply taping it in place.

Thanks in advance.

Vinny


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## wizer (2 Oct 2009)

Earthing dust extraction pipes is a bit of a controversial subject. Many people doubt that the static could ever actually cause any sort of explosion. However, earthing the system will give you one great big advantage, if you touch it you won't get the shock of your life :lol: 

Just get some earth cable, strip it, clamp it to something that is earthed and then wind it around the pipe run. Simples.


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## cornucopia (2 Oct 2009)

in the dust extraction book i got from gmc it reccomended running a bare copper cable around the pipe in a twisting fashion and just before it enters the extractor running it of to a traditinal metal stake ground earth- it also said to put a copper cable in the middle of the pipe but i found this caused snags and blockages so i took it out. 
My machines can run for a long time and i can touch my ducting and never get any shock.
I had an ex coal pit electrican visit my workshop once and he said the coal board use to make him earth all of their ducting to prevent explosion's.

what have you got to lose? it took me about 30 minutes to do and about £5 worth of copper wire

EDIT this is the book i've got


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