# Bandsaw help



## johnny.t. (19 Aug 2009)

I've aquired a small bandsaw this morning, a ryobi ebw 3523. Its only a baby with an 80mm depth of cut.

Thing is theres no blade and having never even stood next to a bandsaw before I an clueless as to what I need :?

As in are they(blades) standard sizes or do I need one specific for this model? How wide? How many teeth per inch? etc.

JT


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## Paul.J (19 Aug 2009)

These are pretty good JT from Axminster.
Do you know the length of blade.


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## Bodrighy (19 Aug 2009)

Is this of help?

Pete


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## johnny.t. (19 Aug 2009)

Cheers guys, the manual says maximum 1510mm length 10mm width .35 thickness.

But how many teeth per inch for the nice neat cut we're after? and if its maximum length 1510mm do you think I should get one 1/2" shorter?

Sorry for the dumb questions :lol: 

JT


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## loz (19 Aug 2009)

Hi Johnny, 

ideally you should have a number of blades, and fit the one for the job in hand ( i don't i used the one that came with the saw for all jobs ! ) 

Some info worth reading here 
.. 
http://www.allbandsawblades.com/blade_width.htm

Regs

Loz


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## Paul.J (19 Aug 2009)

No need to get them shorter as there should be some height adjustment on the top wheel,and it looks like Axy do the size blade you neeed.
The less TPI you have the coarser the cut which will be ideal for cutting logs and ripping down etc.So the 1/2" or 3/8" blade should do.
For finer cuts the more TPI is needed and 1/8" or 1/4" blade.
You might not get enough tension on the 1/2" blade so the 3/8" might be your max width blade.
Just take the cut easy and don't rush it,and alwyas use a sharp blade.
Always try and cut on the flat edge of a log as the blade will always pull the timber downwards, which if unsupported underneath will snatch the wood downwards.


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## loz (19 Aug 2009)

Paul is sooo right. Bandsaws are safe enough due to the downwards forces, but don't like cylinders/logs etc - they like to spin them, then jam and snap the blade.

Best to make a jig, or the simplest way - just use a clamp to resist the rotation as per

- http://roundopinions.blogspot.com/2008/11/bandsaw-cut.html


make a push stick for feeding wood into the blade, and use that fence to support the side.

one thing i have found with my small saw - i cannot hear it when it is on - they are very quiet when not cutting but still running !! - switch it off soon as the cut is over.


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## johnny.t. (19 Aug 2009)

Thanks chaps  more than one blade is required then, so how about a suggestion on tpi for cutting an edge say good enough to be glued up for segmented turning and also tpi for general cuts like taking the corners off square bits? 

JT


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## loz (19 Aug 2009)

johnny.t.":2aznxnbl said:


> Thanks chaps  more than one blade is required then, so how about a suggestion on tpi for cutting an edge say good enough to be glued up for segmented turning and also tpi for general cuts like taking the corners off square bits?
> 
> JT



quote from the url above - The number of teeth per inch (TPI) is important in obtaining the finish desired and the proper feed rate. A coarse tooth blade (2, 3 TPI) should be used for resawing wood and cutting thicker stock up to 8". A fine toothed blade (18 to 32 TPI) should be used for thinner metals and plastics under 1/4". For general cutting of 3/4" wood 4 TPI will provide a fast cut and 14 TPI will cut slow but leave a smoother finish. 

I have a 3tpi and i use that for everything. I have a faceplate with 80 grit stuck on it for sanding edges of items to be glued together. ( although i always get a decent finish off the saw, i use it mainly to iron out any curviness due to a little drift. ) 

Just make sure your tension is right, and your backstop, and side guides are right, drop the depth thingy to just higher than the thickness of the stock you are cutting.

feed slow and you shouldn't get much or any drift.


ps - also watch this and get eccited - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXW55S4X9zo


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## johnny.t. (19 Aug 2009)

That is an impressive video Loz 8)


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