# New Cupboard Project .....Coming to the finish



## Lord Nibbo (8 Jan 2008)

I've designed a cupboard unit to match the existing drawer unit made in American Black Walnut. It will be a few weeks I start it.

This is a pic of the existing drawer unit.






This project will also be made from ABW.

Here are some pics of the design. Slightly bigger than the drawer unit, this is 52" long and 24" high





Made to match an existing draw unit this cupboard will have two hinged doors to the left and right and the centre door will be hinged from the bottom. 
























Not very good rendering I know but this pic gives a taste of what it will look like, even without the doors fitted.


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## NeilO (9 Jan 2008)

Looking good LN, hope there will be WIP Piccies......


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## devonwoody (13 Jan 2008)

Will make a nice matching pair. I expect it is only the sketchup rendering you have used but the top face has the grain running a different direction to your drawers.

Do you expect to start before March


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## Lord Nibbo (13 Jan 2008)

devonwoody":2v2gsrtr said:


> Will make a nice matching pair. I expect it is only the sketchup rendering you have used but the top face has the grain running a different direction to your drawers.
> 
> Do you expect to start before March





Yes the grain will run lengthwise, I've never bothered finding out how to change the direction of rendering in sketchup. :? 

Her Ladyship is on my case as to why I've not ordered the extra wood I need as yet.  It's got to be finished before easter, my boats got to be lifted out to scrub her bottom and paint her private parts :lol:


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## lucky9cat (18 Jan 2008)

Yes, really looking forward to following this one LN. Nice SU skills as well 8) 

You're lucky, whenever I start a new project SWMBO sighs as it's yet another bit of furniture we've got to find space for  

Cheers, Ted


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## Lord Nibbo (18 Jan 2008)

lucky9cat":1wkypju0 said:


> Yes, really looking forward to following this one LN. Nice SU skills as well 8)



The extra wood I need was ordered last Monday, so I expect early next week I might have it here 



> You're lucky, whenever I start a new project SWMBO sighs as it's yet another bit of furniture we've got to find space for
> 
> Cheers, Ted



No problem here it was Swmbo who decided a cupboard was needed, she even told me how big :lol:


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## Lord Nibbo (26 Jan 2008)

With the 1" boards acclimatised and cut over length by approximately 4” to allow me to cut off any snipe every piece was edged on one edge and faced on the jointer/planer then passed through the thicknesser down to 7/8th. I'll leave it now for a day or two before finally thicknessing down to 3/4".











I would estimate 25% contains sapwood so a lot of sawing gluing and a lot of selecting the best faces are going to be the order of the day to cut down on a lot of waste.

More to follow


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## Anonymous (26 Jan 2008)

LN


I have found that snipe can be eliminated completely if you support the wood into the thicknesser and more importantly, out of it properly. By adding a decent length infeed/oufeed 'table' on my SIP, I no longer see any snipe at all. It saves a lot of wood :wink: 

I posted about it on here ages ago with photos


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## Lord Nibbo (26 Jan 2008)

Tony":9aval21w said:


> LN
> 
> 
> I have found that snipe can be eliminated completely if you support the wood into the thicknesser and more importantly, out of it properly. By adding a decent length infeed/oufeed 'table' on my SIP, I no longer see any snipe at all. It saves a lot of wood :wink:
> ...




I've got an Axminster CT330xl Tony






It's actually very good regarding snipe or should I say no snipe but occasionally it happens so as a safeguard I cut everything too long, but thanks for pointing out the thread.


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## wizer (26 Jan 2008)

looking good LN.

What jointer do you have?


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## Lord Nibbo (26 Jan 2008)

WiZeR":3seqk1th said:


> looking good LN.
> 
> What jointer do you have?



It's an 8" Lyndhurst just a rebadged Chinese built American design thingy.
I know Byron had issues with Lyndhurst machines Re : Rust but all I can say mine was perfect and £ per lb I would buy again.


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## steve tighe (26 Jan 2008)

Now it's my turn to show ignorance,what's snipe...is it chatter marks on the timber or a dip on the timber either at the feed in end or a dip at the end of the timber,haven't heard that phrase before.


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## Slim (26 Jan 2008)

Steve,

Snipe is where the thicknesser cuts deeper at either the start or finish of the board. It can be caused by the board not being supported properly and tipping into the cutters.

In the case of my old Jet thicknesser, the snipe was caused by the cutter block moving up when a board was passed through. More expensive models have a lock to prevent this.


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## steve tighe (26 Jan 2008)

Ta for that Slim,if it was happening on the overhand then I'd understand that,if the back bed's too high then you'd get it at the front,too low & you'd have it on the back end.

Obviously if it's happening on the underhand then as you say,the timber's not being supported properly whether it's being fed in or pulled out,timber's tipping up or down depending on which end of the machine.
A tip might be to hold the timber up a bit as it's being fed in & likewise as it's being fed out & trust the rollers keep the section being machined down where it matters ?

Just never heard the phrase before,that's why I asked


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## woodbloke (27 Jan 2008)

Your Lordship - I have to agree with Tony about 'snipe', I have a Kity P/T and provided I 'lift' the infeed side against the feed rollers under the board and again do the same when it comes out t'other side, I don't get _any_ snipe.
Timber looks excellent, 25% wastage seems about par. Just remember on this project that the ABW will have most movement across the grain...'specially when the main carcase is assembled :wink: :roll: - Rob


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## Lord Nibbo (31 Jan 2008)

After four days led on my back from lifting something I shouldn't of I managed to do some more on the cupboard this morning 


First I laid out all the boards ready for ripping to maximise yeald and cutting all the sapwood out.







Here is a pic of the shorter lengths ripped down and all the waste 







All edges jointed, next step glue up into wider boards and thickness to 3/4"







Rather a lot of waste though


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## Lord Nibbo (31 Jan 2008)

This afternoon I biscuited all the top 





Then glued up the top in two halfs





Tomorrow I'll glue the two together then do the same to make up the two end panels.


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## Lord Nibbo (1 Feb 2008)

The top is fully glued up. The two ends still in two halves so one more glue up finishes the main panels. This pic shows the underside of the main top, so don't worry about the odd sap wood showing. You can't have enough clamps can you.


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## Waka (1 Feb 2008)

LN

Looking good, nice to see some else doesn't mind using sap wood for those hidden bits.

You're right about the clamps. good to see you using besseys as well.


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## Mcluma (1 Feb 2008)

It's a small fortune in that picture,



I mean all those bessy clamps :lol:


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## Waka (1 Feb 2008)

LN

Where did you get your walnut from? I have an upcoming project and need about 5 cuft, and what is the quality like?


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## Lord Nibbo (1 Feb 2008)

Waka":iomg03ij said:


> LN
> 
> Where did you get your walnut from? I have an upcoming project and need about 5 cuft, and what is the quality like?



I got this lot from Atkins & Cripps, I ordered 1" but it was actually 28mm it's not as good as the last lot from them when I made the drawer unit. The best I've had was from James Latham, I guess that contained less than 10% sapwood but that was all more than 2" thick and of course for that thickness it cost a lot more.


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## Lord Nibbo (3 Feb 2008)

So the real woodwork really begins here in my view. Starting with a good scrape, it gets a much better finish than sanding.








A bit of TLC for the end panels too.







90deg cut, I had to break out my big sled for this, my normal panel sledge wasn't big enough.







Both end panels got mitred down one side only but both were mitered to length to ensure they were exactly the same length







The top piece and both the end panels get their final edges mitred all together to ensure they are exactly the same width







The top mitred on all four edges and both ends mitred on three edges







Both end panels have 3/8" deep 1/2" wide stopped dado's for the bottom board







The top upside down is placed on the cramps, they are pulled up so the are just snug to the end of the mitres







The vertical clamps do all the work, the horizontal clamps stop the side panel from spreading







The two stays make sure it's at 90deg and fillets for added strength


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## wizer (3 Feb 2008)

Looking good LN. Do you have enough clamps? 

Is that an assembly table your using? Is it on wheels?


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## Waka (3 Feb 2008)

LN

You've made some good progress today, coming together nicely.


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## Lord Nibbo (3 Feb 2008)

WiZeR":xd3ysssn said:


> Looking good LN. Do you have enough clamps?



:lol: 



> Is that an assembly table your using? Is it on wheels?



Yes it's on wheels, it doubles as a support table for the saw, thats when it's not piled up with tools and rubbish :lol:


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## Lord Nibbo (3 Feb 2008)

Waka":fw8xc7uh said:


> LN
> 
> You've made some good progress today, coming together nicely.



Thank you Waka, been busy tonight searching hinges out. Looked at what Philly used on his cabinet, I just can't bring myself to payout what would total more than £80 though :?  So I've looked at Soss and Barrell/Cylinder hinges on Isaac Lords site. I've ordered these 





plus a couple of these stays for the drop down door




:lol:


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## Waka (4 Feb 2008)

LN

Those hinges are really nice, I used them some years ago, relatively easy to fit as well.


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## Lord Nibbo (4 Feb 2008)

Both end are on, the bottom has been cut to size and routed out for the divider panels which have also been cut ready to fit. I still need to rout out the the underside of the top for the dividers but I have already marked out where to cut.


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## Lord Nibbo (5 Feb 2008)

The unit is still upside down. The bottom and dividing panels get fitted. The bottom is glued into the dado for only about five inches at the front, to add strength a fillet has been added near the front edge on both ends.






The left hand (remember it's upside down) face piece gets glued on, no pins (my names not Norm)  






At the rear a slotted block has been glued to the end panel but screwed to the bottom, the slot will allow any movement of the end panel. 






Same procedure for the right hand face piece.






Here is a better pic of the left hand piece after the glue had gone off.


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## Lord Nibbo (6 Feb 2008)

The unit the correct way up but I had to screw some planks on the bottom temporarily as it’s longer than my assembly table. All the face pieces fitted, just the doors to do on the front now. I might start the back and leave the doors to the very last thing. Whatever I cant do anymore until at least Sunday


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## lucky9cat (7 Feb 2008)

Looking good, LN, looking good. I like the way the mitered edges come together in the front corners. A couple of questions about the miters. After cutting them on the saw do you then clean them up with a plane or something? Also, I don't see any mention of biscuits or any other device apart from the blocks when gluing miter to miter; is there any?

I also like the way you controlled the boards with the long clamps when gluing the top to the sides. Nice tip.

Ted


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## Lord Nibbo (7 Feb 2008)

lucky9cat":2n32e35r said:


> Looking good, LN, looking good. I like the way the mitered edges come together in the front corners. A couple of questions about the miters. After cutting them on the saw do you then clean them up with a plane or something? Also, I don't see any mention of biscuits or any other device apart from the blocks when gluing miter to miter; is there any?
> 
> I also like the way you controlled the boards with the long clamps when gluing the top to the sides. Nice tip.
> 
> Ted



Re: Planing, Only if I can see any saw marks, if it needs planing I run it over my planer set at 45deg.

I don't use biscuits they aren't accurate enough they impede getting it perfect IMHO.


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## Lord Nibbo (9 Feb 2008)

A close up of the mitred joints on the front face.






Starting on the back panel. The top rail is glued into place and the side pieces are ready to glue up, all have a dado/groove on the inside face for fitting the panels.






Gluing the side pieces on.






The unit now lying on it's front. The lower rail is only dry fitted so I could measure it up for the two middle pieces. The lower rail is made with floating tenons and the two middle pieces will be fixed on the same way. 






Centre stiles cut with floating tenons and glued in place






Stiles dry fitted






Boards resawn for back panels to 1/2" thick






All the boards have been thicknessed and have had any sapwood cut off then they were edged and glued up for the three panels.


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## Lord Nibbo (9 Feb 2008)

The panels have been sized and fitted, that completes the back.


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## Lord Nibbo (11 Feb 2008)

View of the back paneling 







Better view of the front 







Doors glued up just need cutting to size. The grain will run Vertical when fitted. 







To reduce warping should I reinforce the door as in version A or B? 
Version A would be flush with the face and glued only in the centre with screws at the ends. 
Version B would be inset 3/8" into the door but would stick out 3/8". 
Or should I risk fixing the door with no reinforcement and hope it don't warp?


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## Shultzy (11 Feb 2008)

This months GW has a large table which has angle iron sunk flush into the underside and screwed through elongated hole to stop potential warping. May be another option.


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## Oryxdesign (11 Feb 2008)

Really nice work, I made some very similar bedside cabinets a while back in ABW veneer, I've been toying with making something larger and I think you've given me the kick I need.


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## seanybaby (11 Feb 2008)

Very nice LN


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## Lord Nibbo (14 Feb 2008)

Been out of the workshop with a bad back again but today managed to get out there again but all I managed to do was........ 
........ 
.... *Drop a right [email protected]* I had sized to fit the two outer doors and proceeded to fit the barrel hinges, this type 






I even made a jig to do it. So I drilled the two outer doors then the corresponding holes in the cabinet everything lined up perfectly well I got the first door on and two more of the hinges fitted in to the other door. It was at this point I went to open the door already fitted and it would only open about 30 degrees    So for the next few hours were spent drilling out the hinges and boy they were tight :evil: So after re plugging the holes I'm back to where I was this morning and I've had to order a larger size set of hinges


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## wizer (14 Feb 2008)

Lord Nibbo":1la35eqg said:


> Been out of the workshop with a bad back again



I know how that goes... Take it easy mate.

I also know how it goes to spend a day on something and not get anywhere. It will look better in the morning.


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## Waka (15 Feb 2008)

LN

Coming along nicely. regarding the doors I like option "A" because it does end up flush with the door and gives off a better finish, also unlike option "B" it doesn't look like bracing.


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## DavidE (15 Feb 2008)

Hi LN,

Looking good - problems like that are annoying. I hope you can get back to making good progress.

David


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## Lord Nibbo (19 Feb 2008)

I've just noticed that I missed out making the doors but I do have one pic of one of the doors having the stengthening boards fitted or rather the rebate being cut.
----------------------------------------------------

Not quite done as in the sketchup drawing, I decided to rebate right to the edge and make the boards to be fitted a little bigger, this will hopefully help stop/reduce the door from warping.
It may look at first glance that I used the LN rebate plane but the truth is I did the major work with my table router, I'm only cleaning up the faces with the plane. The rebate to the left is as it came off the router table. The rebate to the right is nearly finished.


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## Waka (19 Feb 2008)

Lord Nibbo":3l262lf4 said:


> It may look at first glance that I used the LN rebate plane but the truth is I did the major work with my table router, I'm only cleaning up the faces with the plane. The rebate to the left is as it came off the router table. The rebate to the right is nearly finished.



LN

Is that plane a good buy, I've been looking but am not sure that I'd use it , what's your thoughts?


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## Lord Nibbo (19 Feb 2008)

Waka":m8xux8y5 said:


> LN
> 
> Is that plane a good buy, I've been looking but am not sure that I'd use it , what's your thoughts?



Well it's too big for small tenons for that I use my little LN rebate but on larger jobs it comes into it's own because of having a nicker on both sides. It cuts superb perhaps better than many of my bench planes but that may be because of the narrower blade. I think the swiveling handles may be a gimmick cos I never alter mine when I use it on it's side to straighten the shoulders, I just grab it the same as if I were using a bench plane on a shooting board. So if you do many longish/large rebates or need to cleanup rebates done after using a router then it's the bee's knees 

Ps... I'm sure others who use one will confirm how good it cuts and just like anything from LN it sure looks nice... :lol: :lol:


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## Lord Nibbo (20 Feb 2008)

Both the left and right doors fitted. The centre door seen on the top as yet to be sized.






A close look at the barrel hinge fittings if you look closely above the top hinge and below the lower hinge you can see where I have had to plug the cockup of using too small a hinge, I decided to move them rather than trying to redrill where the plug was as I feel the doors would be weekened using the same hole position.
The door strengthening is only glued about half the length, it is screwed at the hinge end to allow movement in this cross grain situation.


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## Waka (20 Feb 2008)

LN

Nice tight fit with the doors, looking very nice.


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## Lord Nibbo (21 Feb 2008)

Well all the woodwork is nearly done.....

The centre drop down door is positioned but the hinges have still to be fitted. Although I can get a sheet of paper around the sides and top of the centre door I may shave a little more off it just in case it swells a little.
The three blocks in front are what will become the handles.











Once the door is fitted I shall sand it down I may give it a coat of cellulose sanding sealer before fitting the handles.


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## Lord Nibbo (21 Feb 2008)

The centre drop down door is now fitted, but working out the geometry on those stays wasn't easy. If they were ordinary stays it would have been simple but these are sprung loaded so when you close the door the pressure from the spring keeps the door closed i.e. no catch needed.


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## Lord Nibbo (23 Feb 2008)

The handles just temporarily screwed on. I shall glue and screw them on after I have done the finish on the outside.




Starting the finish on the inside, three coats of danish oil


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## Lord Nibbo (24 Feb 2008)

First panel to get a coat of celulose sanding sealer is the back.






Next for the sealer is the end panels






With the handles taken off the top and front get done, I'm quite high on the fumes now  So I'll wait till tomorrow before cutting it all back with wire wool or 240 grit paper.


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## Lord Nibbo (25 Feb 2008)

It looks quite a bit different now the sanding sealer is rubbed down  





A view of the back panel rubbed down.





1st Coat of Danish oil.


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## Philly (25 Feb 2008)

Wow! Looking great!
Philly


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## Lord Nibbo (25 Feb 2008)

Philly":1431dqhr said:


> Wow! Looking great!
> Philly



Taking the pics using a flash is making the pics look quite a bit redder than seeing it as it really is, the darker shades in the grain is also more pronounced than in reality. On the whole I'm pleased with it, I know the thread is so similar to when I made the drawer unit, perhaps a little boring but it has got to match the drawer unit, which I hope it has done. 

I've just put on the 2nd coat of danish oil, tomorrow I'll decide if to rub it down for a final coat or to give it another coat before cutting it back.


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## Paul.J (25 Feb 2008)

That wood looks gorgeous LN.Almost shimmering with the grain.
Another nice job


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## Lord Nibbo (28 Feb 2008)

Five coats of Danish oil on top of the cellulose sanding sealer. Tomorrow it will get a coat of Black Bison paste wax and a buff up then I'll put the handles on and the magnetic left and right door catches, and some felt pads to stand it on.





Then I'll post the final pic of it in the house. :lol:


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## Lord Nibbo (29 Feb 2008)

*The Final Pics. It's Finished*

*With the cupboard finished it is now in situ in my home, and here are the final pics*












*This pic is taken with no flash to show the real natural colour of the walnut*




*The Final Pic*






* FINISHED*


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## Slim (29 Feb 2008)

Beautiful LN. I really love the design and the walnut looks stunning. Great job. =D>


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## JanneKi (29 Feb 2008)

Very nice indeed, excellent work!


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## Waka (29 Feb 2008)

LN

Very nice job, I've never used walnut before but after looking at your project I think I'll give it a try.


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## Matt_S (29 Feb 2008)

another great piece of furniture, must be real pleasure to look at all those pieces in your house


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## Mcluma (29 Feb 2008)

Very very nice work

Now just make sure the wife doesn't put a vase on it :twisted:


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## Lord Nibbo (29 Feb 2008)

Mcluma":31gcifwu said:


> Very very nice work
> 
> Now just make sure the wife doesn't put a vase on it :twisted:



How come you know my wife? :lol: :wink:


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## mailee (29 Feb 2008)

That is a beautiful piece there your Lordship. I love Walnut for almost anything.


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## wizer (29 Feb 2008)

WOW. Love it, very beautiful


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## motownmartin (29 Feb 2008)

Another fine job your Lordship =D> ccasion5:


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## lucky9cat (1 Mar 2008)

LN, a lovely job. I've enjoyed following you make it and I certainly am going to have to try something in walnut to. It just looks so lovely. Thanks for the write up and pics.

Ted


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## Mcluma (1 Mar 2008)

Lord Nibbo":3vxxx6h1 said:


> Mcluma":3vxxx6h1 said:
> 
> 
> > Very very nice work
> ...



Because every wife does it :twisted: :twisted:


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## walkin (30 Mar 2008)

Lord Nibbo":1iqn62qx said:


> The door strengthening is only glued about half the length, it is screwed at the hinge end to allow movement in this cross grain situation.



Lord Nibbo, your excellent project is an inspiration, so much so that I have felt the need to register and hope you might explain your statement above for me.

Do you mean that it is glued at the "open" end, and screwed at the hinge end? if so is there a need for the screw holes in the support piece to be oversized?

thanks in advance,

Graeme
(very much a beginner)


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## DaveL (30 Mar 2008)

HI Graeme,

Welcome to the forum. 

Everyone has to start sometime, we are all at different points on the woodwork journey, most of us are on more than one *Slope TM*, there is no turning back now. :lol: :wink:


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## walkin (30 Mar 2008)

thanks for the welcome Dave,

yes, I understand the slippery slope - my plane collection is multiplying at an alarming rate!


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## Lord Nibbo (31 Mar 2008)

walkin":3p3jyhfs said:


> Lord Nibbo":3p3jyhfs said:
> 
> 
> > Do you mean that it is glued at the "open" end, and screwed at the hinge end? if so is there a need for the screw holes in the support piece to be oversized?
> ...



Yes you got it correct, I suppose the holes are bigger than the screws but they are countersunk, I don't imagine for one moment that the doors will shrink more than about a 1/16th probably less.

I've just had a look there is some shrinkage but hardly measurable. The doors have bowed too, but not enough to bother me.


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## Anonymous (31 Mar 2008)

Lovely LN - that grain comes out a treat


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## walkin (1 Apr 2008)

Thanks Lord Nibbo, 
again, most impressed with your skill.


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## BradNaylor (1 Apr 2008)

Very nice m'lud!

From a professional's point of view, it is very interesting seeing the approach taken by someone who doesn't have to count the hours completing a project like this.

For instance, resawing solid stock to make the back. I can't think of any pro inhabiting the real world who wouldn't use a piece of 6mm veneered MDF.

The inevitable question - how many hours did you spend on it over the 2 month period?

My guess is about 100.

Once again, a lovely job - I would have been proud to have made that.


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## George_N (1 Apr 2008)

Dan Tovey":2udacyyj said:


> The inevitable question - how many hours did you spend on it over the 2 month period?
> 
> My guess is about 100.
> 
> Once again, a lovely job - I would have been proud to have made that.



Hmm, even paying yourself minimum wage (£5.52) that would be £552 for labour alone, then there's the cost of materials (£???.??) and other overheads like heat, light and power, cups of coffee etc. So we are up to about £1000 so far, then there is the kudos of it being a Lord Nibbo one-off original which should quadruple the price :wink: I think you better give your insurance broker a call and increase your cover.


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## Lord Nibbo (1 Apr 2008)

It was actually made in 29 days and I probably didn't do any work on it for about four days in total and doing the finish I probably only worked on it for about 1 hour a day so knock off another four days. So 21 days at about 5-6 hours a day = 105- 126 hours..... so lets split it and say 115 hours minus 15 or more drinking tea and having a fag :lol: yes I guess 100 hours would be correct.

Never mind minimum wage, I'll charge what they charge me to service my car  ..... minimum £35 per hour so that prices the labour cost at £3500 add on the cost of consumables just like my garage would :lol: say £25. Add other cost (Tea & Fags) ... another £25. Cost of wood £190 total before vat £3740 now that's cheap ain't it? I wonder what James Krenov would have charged?


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## BradNaylor (1 Apr 2008)

Interesting...

I know how it would pan out if I was commissioned to design and make that piece.

I would prepare a Sketchup drawing just like his Lordship's and submit my quote for the cabinet to made in solid wood.

Say 2 weeks @ £1000 per week
Materials £230x2 (mark-up)

= £2460.00 Needless to say the client doesn't see the calculation!

Cue sharp intake of breath from punter. 'Is there anything we can do on the price?'

'Well', says DT, 'I could build it in a combination of solid wood and veneered MDF'

'OK' says punter, 'What are we talking about?'

This time the calculation is something like;

1.5 weeks @ £1000 per week
Materials £150 x 2 

= £1800.00

And guess what,

90% of the time people go for the cheaper option.

Sad but true.

Ah, well...


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## Fecn (1 Apr 2008)

Lord Nibbo":3eyabq8i said:


> £3740 now that's cheap ain't it?



Not cheap.. but quality costs and your work is very very good - Nice work Nibbo !


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## BradNaylor (1 Apr 2008)

Fecn":3pen1ww8 said:


> Lord Nibbo":3pen1ww8 said:
> 
> 
> > £3740 now that's cheap ain't it?
> ...



You're quite right Fecn,

The difficulty however, is finding a client prepared to pay that kind of price for that kind of quality.

There's not that many of them out there!

Most of us out of necessity have to set our sights a little lower!


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## Lord Nibbo (1 Apr 2008)

Fecn":3ownwb1t said:


> Lord Nibbo":3ownwb1t said:
> 
> 
> > £3740 now that's cheap ain't it?
> ...



The magic word *WORK* to me it's only a hobby which I love doing. I've never charged to make anything for friends or family as long as they supply the wood with plenty left over for me :lol: If I ever charged to make anything it becomes *WORK* and I would soon lose interest. For people like Dan and all the other professionals it's a different ball game with people nagging for a finish date and then moaning about some little defect trying to knock down the quoted price (how many has that happened to?) I'm not going to even try to compete against professionals they have to make a living to make, I only want to do one off's the thought of making something repetitive like a set of chairs for a dining set would bore me to death. 

I'm off to make a cuppa & have a fag :lol:


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## BradNaylor (2 Apr 2008)

Lord Nibbo":tbkcah60 said:


> To me it's only a hobby which I love doing. I've never charged to make anything for friends or family as long as they supply the wood with plenty left over for me :lol: If I ever charged to make anything it becomes *WORK* and I would soon lose interest. For people like Dan and all the other professionals it's a different ball game with people nagging for a finish date and then moaning about some little defect trying to knock down the quoted price (how many has that happened to?) I'm not going to even try to compete against professionals they have to make a living to make, I only want to do one off's the thought of making something repetitive like a set of chairs for a dining set would bore me to death.
> 
> I'm off to make a cuppa & have a fag :lol:



You're absolutely right LN, and I think the work you do is excellent - easily of professional quality.

In fact it's probably better because as you say, your motivation is different to mine. When I'm working on a job I've always got one eye on the clock; I'm also preparing timber for the next job, planning the one after that, preparing quotes for future ones, going on appointments to see potential clients, taking phone calls from photocopier salesmen... the list goes on!

I am very lucky though, that I have been able to downsize my business in the last few months, shedding some big overheads including two staff, and can now approach my work in a way more akin to the way you approach your hobby. My total business costs now come to less than £100 per week.

Congratulations on finding a hobby in your retirement which you obviously love and at which you excel. I will just keep on working - because I've got the best job in the world!! :lol: 


And no pension! 

Cheers
Dan


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## gidon (2 Apr 2008)

LN - fantastic work! I really like it. It makes me jealous the amount of time you have for woodworking !!
By the way - did you just order the boards from Atkins and Cripps and get what you were given? Or were you able to sort through them yourself? Last time I got ABW they had to get it in. Also how do you find them pricing it all up - I find them a bit random which is frustrating.
Anyway enjoyed looking through that. Looking forward to the next project !
And Dan - it's really refreshing to hear a pro so positive about his job!
Cheers
Gidon


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## Lord Nibbo (2 Apr 2008)

gidon":2ids1aaj said:


> LN - fantastic work! I really like it. It makes me jealous the amount of time you have for woodworking !!
> By the way - did you just order the boards from Atkins and Cripps and get what you were given? Or were you able to sort through them yourself? Last time I got ABW they had to get it in. Also how do you find them pricing it all up - I find them a bit random which is frustrating.
> Anyway enjoyed looking through that. Looking forward to the next project !
> And Dan - it's really refreshing to hear a pro so positive about his job!
> ...


 Yes I got what I was given. I ordered it from Cambridge expecting to collect it from Saltash just across the river from Plymouth but they delivered it and talking to the driver it had come from Oxford. Yes they are frustrating, every time I've ordered the actual delivery was more than ordered by as much as 10% but cubic foot price was as quoted. . The quality (Sapwood content) I had for the drawer unit was excellent, but for the cupboard unit I did get a lot of sapwood , maybe 20%. The best ever ABW I've had was from James Latham (Bristol Depot) for the HiFi unit, all 2 1/2" and less than 5% sapwood but boy was it expensive for 2 1/2".


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