# pin end scroll saw blades



## adrian1973 (14 Apr 2016)

hi, I'm new to this site and scroll saws although I have been very busy with it in the last 2 months. I bought my scroll saw used and it came with a few blades, these are now blunt. I have bought 3 different makes of blades but they are all half the thickness of the blades I was using and the previous owner don't know what make they are.
so far I have bought silverline, record & power pro and they have all been reluctant to turn tight curves and often run off in their own direction. I need some 130mm pin end blades 18tpi that are heavy duty and able to do really tight turns.
I am in the uk and other than fleebay have no idea where to look at some before buying.
please help......
thanks


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## scrimper (14 Apr 2016)

adrian1973":2ht56lcc said:


> hi, I'm new to this site and scroll saws although I have been very busy with it in the last 2 months. I bought my scroll saw used and it came with a few blades, these are now blunt. I have bought 3 different makes of blades but they are all half the thickness of the blades I was using and the previous owner don't know what make they are.
> so far I have bought silverline, record & power pro and they have all been reluctant to turn tight curves and often run off in their own direction. I need some 130mm pin end blades 18tpi that are heavy duty and able to do really tight turns.
> I am in the uk and other than fleebay have no idea where to look at some before buying.
> please help......
> thanks



Have to be honest, I have never bought anything with the Silverline name on it that was any good at all! I bought some file sander belts which snapped after a few mins and a submersible water pump which blew all the trips in the house first time I put it in water, I got it changed and that one went the same way. I have had so many duff items with the brand that I won't touch anything Silverline again! 

Can you not just use standard pin-less blades with some blade clamps?


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## Aggrajag (15 Apr 2016)

With blades thinner is better as they can turn more tightly - imagine trying to turn a barge around in a canal!

If you're using thinner blades but you're struggling to turn I would imagine that you've not got the tension right, try increasing it and see if it helps. If it's not that then maybe you're using something with too many teeth for the thickness of wood? Try a lower TPI blade.

I only ever once bought toothed blades, Einhell and they were utter dung; I started using the adapters and pinless Olson blades which were a phenomenal improvement.


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## scrimper (15 Apr 2016)

One thing you can do which helps with thicker blades when turning is round off the rear corners of the blade, you can do it whilst the saw is in motion.


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## Claymore (15 Apr 2016)

welcome to the forum Adrian, what make/model saw did you buy? just wondering if there are any pinless blade clamps available for it as they will transform your cutting if you get some Olsen/Pegas/Niqua etc blades.

Cheers
Brian


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## NazNomad (15 Apr 2016)

Aggrajag":1884g9k0 said:


> I only ever once bought toothed blades...



I tend to always buy blades with teeth, I find they cut much better.  :-D


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## Aggrajag (16 Apr 2016)

lol. Oops!


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## brucio75 (29 Jun 2016)

I use pin end blades all the time, even for circular holes down to 1/2" diameter.
These blades are almost 1/8" from teeth to back of blade.
You can cut straight lines nearly blind-folded (NOT recommended), as it's very easy to follow lines, because there's very little drift.
To cut holes, you need to drill a 3/16" hole to get the pin end through the wood. If it's going to be a square hole, drill a hole at each corner of 1/8" to turn the blade.
If it's a round hole, the one drilled hole will do.
With a small round hole, when cutting, "seesaw" the wood very slightly backwards and forwards. This will create enough space to turn the blade fairly tightly.
I use a Simm scrollsaw, and although it has blade clamps for pinless blades, It's not often I use those blades.
Hope this helps,
Bruce


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## NazNomad (29 Jun 2016)

I have to agree with Bruce... I did some 'relatively' intricate cutting with my ancient Ferm saw and only ever used cheapo pinned blades. What wood type/thickness are you cutting?


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## brucio75 (29 Jun 2016)

Oops...old age moment there....
My scrollsaw is a* Sipp*, 16" throat.

I've got simm cards on the brain,
Bruce


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## Dominik Pierog (3 Jul 2016)

Pinend blades are nightmare.
And cheap saw with folded pice of lamella(?) are crime.






This homemade saw it's much better blade clamps system. If you want enjoy scrolling you must have clamps for straight pinless blade.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_1cs8K ... Cmj63JO8XQ

I dont say you must buy expensive branded scroll saw. Almost everything that can keep pinless blade is ok.






Maybe you could buy adapters.


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