# UKWorkshop getting on the YouTube bandwagon?



## gidon (17 Oct 2006)

Since "broadcasting yourself" is the current and next big thing, how about members on this forum contribute some video clips on various woodworking techniques etc?

Could be really helpful for beginners but also a potentially very useful resource for everyone? And good fun too!

If anyone's up for it perhaps we could start with some suggestions of topics to cover - and then members can volunteer or be volunteered  against those topics. Not just one person per topic but as many as possible / want to do it?

Anyone with even a digital camera with movie capability can contribute. A tripod may be handy too. And there are many people here who can help with the editing / uploading if need be. If you're camera shy you don't have to show your face ! You can also take a silent film and add an audio commentary afterwards - or get someone else too if you want!

So here are some obvious suggestions to get things rolling:

-Sharpening plane irons, sharpening chisels
-Cutting dovetails (by hand, with power tools)
-Cutting mortise and tenon joints (by hand, with power tools)

*Suggestions from thread:*
-The art of kickback - JFC 
-French Polishing - HS ?
-Accurate measuring and marking out.
-Tool reviews.

They could be as short or long as you like.

So what do people think? If you like the idea then please add some suggestions. Nothing quite like something shown on video.

Cheers

Gidon


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## JFC (17 Oct 2006)

I can demonstrate the art of launching a piece of timber across the workshop whilst screaming blue murder , I have perfected it and can miss the window every time :lol:


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## Colin C (17 Oct 2006)

JFC":307t64op said:


> I can demonstrate the art of launching a piece of timber across the workshop whilst screaming blue murder , I have perfected it and can miss the window every time :lol:



Now JFC, you have surprised me :roll: :wink: 8-[ 
( ducking and running for the car :wink: )


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## mrbingley (17 Oct 2006)

Seems like a very good idea.
Then the learners like myself can watch and learn how it's done properly.
I'm being starved of info at the moment, seeing as the Discovery Channel in its wisdom has taken off air the woodworking programmes broadcast during the day.
Go for it  

Chris.


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## houtslager (17 Oct 2006)

if someone lends or even gives me a video camera I'll do some French Polishing the quick and easy way.

and later in the year I can film - how to build a workshop in STRAW BALES


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## gidon (17 Oct 2006)

JFC / Colin - I'll add a Misc category then shall I !
HS - doesn't your digital camera have video mode?
A French polishing tutorial would be superb.
Cheers
Gidon


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## Steve Maskery (17 Oct 2006)

Excellent idea. I'm sure that video is the future for this kind of thing, that's why I'm writing my DVD series (shameless plug - and did I mention my Blog?).

But be warned:
1. Video CAN take up HUGE amounts of disk space. I have 78 seconds to date, and in DV AVI format it is 280mb. That is not a typo! Not all formats are as hungry, of course, and I think WIndows Movie Maker makes reasonably small ones, it just doesn't give me the editing functionality I want.

2. It takes up huge amounts of time. One way and another, that 78 seconds has taken me over a week to produce. OK, I'm learning how to do it and should get quicker, but it isn't something you can just knock off in a couple of hours. It's here , by the way, if you are interested. Why has it taken so long? Well that was Take 32. I've been trying out various editing packages, Roxio, CyberLink and Adobe. All work similarly but Adobe is by far the best. I was pulling my hair our just trying to get the raw material from the CC to the PC with Cyberlink, and Roxio kept giving me errors.
Then the clip itself needed dubbing. It was very windy when we filmed, and there was lots of wind noise on the mic. So I've muted the soundtrack and dubbed in the speech. It's not perfect yet, but it's not bad. I need to work on the sync a bit. Then I've overlaid a track of birdsong. Then I added the music (2 tracks, overlaid - it's one guy playing both tracks) and finally the fading in and out. Then it has to be rendered. All this is new to me.

3. It's addictive! I've had more than one 2am finish this week, trying to get it right, working out how to get what I want. I should be making a bed, but instead I'm glued to my PC!

I'll contribute. Count me in.


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## wizer (17 Oct 2006)

the thing with compress video, a la YouTube, is that the quality drops. This makes it diffucult when trying to demonstrate, say... which side of the pencil line one is cutting. Or the thickness of a plane shaving.

Good Idea never the less, i'd be interested for sure.


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## gidon (17 Oct 2006)

Steve
Agree it is addictive and very very time consuming! Yep the DV format takes up lots of space. But for this sort of thing you can soon compress it down for uploading to YouTube. In fact, if you're short of disc space, something like Pinnacle Studio that I use will allow you to edit without downloading the whole clip first to your HDD, and then only pulls of the HQ material for the final render.
But these YouTube clips can't be too big anyway - 10 mins / 100MB max. May get decent results with a digital camera if the lighting is ok.
Like your video so far! Sony Vegas always gets rave reviews for editing. And Pinnacle I find ok but buggy.
Wizer
Yes agree - will be interesting to see what sort of results we can get. I think good lighting will help and also limited movement as much as you can. Plus finding a format that converts to YouTube well (YouTube recommend uploading DIVx/MPEG-4 files.)
Guess I'll have to have a go at something myself and see how it comes out ? Would probably be useful to get some sort of user guide together too, to help people with their chosen topic!
Cheers
Gidon


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## garywayne (17 Oct 2006)

I am not good enough to contribute any skills, but could someone show the art of measuring and marking out properly, emphasising how important it is.


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## gidon (17 Oct 2006)

Good suggestion Gary. Hopefully we'll get a volunteer for that one!
For anyone not keen to contribute a technique, we could also have tool reviews. That a nice easy one that anybody can do?
Cheers
Gidon


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## gidon (17 Oct 2006)

Well I has some fun this evening having a go at a video showing my favoured sharpening technique for chisels. You can see for yourselves, but I think the video quality is good enough for this to be a worthwhile exercise. Shame about the content and presenter .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDoRLdR4zC0
I recorded this with a miniDV camcorder, edited it in Pinnacle Studio and outputted to MPEG-4 format as recommended by YouTube.
Cheers
Gidon


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## Steve Maskery (17 Oct 2006)

Nice, gidon. How big is the file then? That's much better quality than my Windows AVI file. I'll have to have a play.


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## mel (18 Oct 2006)

good work gidon
ive got about 20 chisels that need sharpening  
would you like to borrow them for your next video  
what make of angle setter is that ??? 
mel


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## mel (18 Oct 2006)

> gary wayne
> I am not good enough to contribute any skills, but could someone show the art of measuring and marking out properly, emphasising how important it is.
> 
> omg


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## Martin Brown (18 Oct 2006)

Really excellent Gidon. Well done. Martin


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## garywayne (18 Oct 2006)

Gidon, nice video.

What is that micro finishing film, where do you get it from, and how much?


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## filsgreen (18 Oct 2006)

Excellent Gidon, thank you just what I needed =D> Any chance of a demo of a plane blade being sharpened?

Phil


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## Anonymous (18 Oct 2006)

Nice video Gidon, I suspect many people learnt a lot from that

I like your idea, but no video camera....


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## wizer (18 Oct 2006)

I stand corrected. Very good film Gidon. Very useful too. Maybe you can tour the country filming people in their workshop


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## gidon (18 Oct 2006)

Thanks folks for the encouraging comments.
Steve - well the file I uploaded was quite large, but YouTube compresses it down anyway to <300Kbps - that clip ends up around 8MB. I don't particuarly like the Flash video format - very blocky. But makes this video sites accessible to almost everyone. What codec are you using for your web clips?
Thanks Mel ! That's a Veritas Mk II honing jig - very well thought out gadget. What was your other post? Were your offering to do a video on measuring and marking out ?
Gary - the film is 3M microfinishing film. I got it here. The non sticky stuff is cheaper and works fine for this method - it clings to the stone with just the oil. The green stuff was 0.5 micron and the grey stuff was 5 micron.
Phil - yep I can show a plane blade being sharpened too if you like. It's pretty much the same - just that I use DC's ruler trick for polishing the back.
Tony - shame - not even a digital camera or web cam? Or a kind friend ? I never got to see your houndstooth demo at Phil's do .
Wizer - the tripod really helped. You can see when there's any movement the quality deteriorates - but I was pleasantly surprised by the end quality too.
Microsoft have just produced their own YouTube:
http://soapbox.msn.com/ - looks quite nice - but just tried the video and quality is about the same I think.
Keep the comments, suggestions coming in!
Cheer
Gidon


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## garywayne (18 Oct 2006)

Thanks again Gidon.


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## dedee (18 Oct 2006)

Nice video Gidon, thanks.

I'd not seen that microfinishing film before - very interesting. 

Just satisfy my curiosity if you will. What would be the difference on that end gain scrap if you had honed the microbevel on just the extrafine CMT stone? 


Andy


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## ByronBlack (18 Oct 2006)

Good work Gidon. I think more of us should be doing some small video's like these - and there's no reason why they can't be added to a UKWorkshop podcast (similar to Matts basement or WoodWhisperer) I would be happy to do some editing and get the podcast and rss together if there were other video's.


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## gidon (18 Oct 2006)

Thanks Andy. You can quite happily finish on the 1200 grit DMT. But polishing on the 0.5 micron makes quite a difference - especially noticeable planing. And cutting that end grain there would some grain pulled apart - with the polishing stage the surface is left completely smooth. It's also easier to push the chisel on that specific cut. Supposedly the edge should also last longer because there are no serrations to tear off - but that's harder to confirm.
I find this method a lot quicker and less messy that getting out my waterstones. 
Byron - I was thinking if it took off of initially just a having sticky or something with links to the contributed videos. But no reason we couldn't then extend that to a more sophisticated method of updating and delivering the videos. Thanks for the offer. Will have to check out "WoodWhisperer".
Cheers
Gidon


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## garywayne (18 Oct 2006)

Gidon, Byron.

I used to be a film extra. If you need someone to casually walk past, or be sitting in the background whilst you are filming, Ill be happy to oblige.


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## Steve Maskery (18 Oct 2006)

gidon":11ch0rhe said:


> Steve - What codec are you using for your web clips?



Good Q. I'm only just learning about codecs, I think I just picked whatever was the default output. I'm not even sure if I'm answering your Q sensibly. 

I've replaced the AVI file with a WMA. It's now got the titles on it. It's about the same size, and that uses the WMA9 codec in PAL256 format. I think! Does that make any kind of sense?

It all double-dutch to me. I've got some serious reading to do.

One thing I have discovered is that a normal 17" CRT is less than ideal for video editing. I NEED a 32" high definition widescreen...


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## David C (18 Oct 2006)

Gidon,

Nice video!

best wishes,
David charlesworth


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## Paul Chapman (18 Oct 2006)

Gidon, that video was excellent =D> =D> That microfinishing film looks good stuff - and I'm glad to see someone else who uses oil with diamond stones. Much less messy than water and no fear of rust problems :wink: 

Paul


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## Freetochat (19 Oct 2006)

Steve Maskery":2tsffzyi said:


> One thing I have discovered is that a normal 17" CRT is less than ideal for video editing. I NEED a 32" high definition widescreen...



Why stop at 32"? :lol: :lol:


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## Steve Maskery (19 Oct 2006)

Freetochat":36d1s7p3 said:


> Why stop at 32"?



Desk size! :lol:


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## gidon (19 Oct 2006)

Gary - so is "Extras" an accurate portrayal !
Steve - it is confusing - there are loads of codecs you can use and the confusing things is they come in a variety of "wrappers" (which give the file its extension.) Anyhow the WMA9 is a windows media audio codec - so your video is probably encoded with some windows media codec too. These usually give pretty good results and play on most modern computers. Then of course you have to choose the window size, frame rate and bitrate. 320x240 is a good starting point. 25 fps is what PAL uses and is plenty. And the bitrate should be somewhere between 250k and 750k for web based video - depends on the users connection and the length of the video. You can see why sites like YouTube just take your video and reprocess it themselves!
David - high praise indeed - thank you!
Paul - thanks - agree - baby oil as a FWW article mentioned works pretty well for me.
Cheers
Gidon


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## David C (20 Oct 2006)

Ah.... Baby oil. must try that.

I think DMT used to suggest that 3 in 1 type oils might do harm to the polycarbonate plastic substrate.

Trend have a theory that water is too thick for their diamond stones and sell the very expensive anti rust fluid.

David


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## Paul Chapman (20 Oct 2006)

David C":19fh29so said:


> I think DMT used to suggest that 3 in 1 type oils might do harm to the polycarbonate plastic substrate.



I've used WD40 (and sometimes 3 in 1) on my DMT stones for several years with no adverse affect on the polycarbonate plastic substrate :wink: 

Paul


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## Alf (20 Oct 2006)

Proper job, Gidon. Wanna come round and do all mine?  I would have commented before but the blasted thing wouldn't load completely for some reason. Might have been confused 'cos it wasn't Jane Eyre related... 8-[ 

And fwiw I've been using lamp oil (paraffin for the nasally sensitive) for years on my DMTs now with no apparent ill effects.

Cheers, Alf


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## gidon (20 Oct 2006)

David - DMT still recommend water on their website, but white spirit works just as well and won't rust. BUT it's makes me feel nauseas - baby oil is far more pleasant . Will have to watch out for it eroding those pricey bench stones though!
Thanks Alf (did you like the BBC Jane Eyre adaptation then - my wife love it (I enjoyed it too)?) I would be happy to have a go with yours if you like. Have you any way of recording some raw footage? If not I'm sure we can sort something out - we're not a million miles from each other (although it sometimes feels like it ). 
Cheers
Gidon


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## Paul Chapman (20 Oct 2006)

gidon":cocsamiy said:


> David - DMT still recommend water on their website



I was in correspondence with Starkie & Starkie (they used to import and distribute DMT stones) some years ago and mentioned in passing that I used WD40 on mine. They commented that this sounded a good alternative for those who did not want to use water and did not envisage any problems for the stones. On the other hand, I see lots of potential problems in using water - the metal of the stone can rust, as can blades, as can honing guides. OK, you can wipe them but it's not easy to guarantee dryness in the unheated winter workshop. Then there's all that black, messy gunge when you sharpen using water - all seems a lot of bother to me. I'll stick to WD40 :wink: 

Paul


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## Alf (20 Oct 2006)

gidon":2om87ny9 said:


> Thanks Alf (did you like the BBC Jane Eyre adaptation then - my wife love it (I enjoyed it too)?


Well I managed to concentrate more on the story than the furniture on the set, so a BAFTA winner if ever there was one :wink: Yeah, I enjoyed it a lot more than I expected - being forced to read it 20 years ago while actually at a modern version of Lowood never made it one of my favourite books. Sheesh, right old soap opera plot though, eh? :lol:



gidon":2om87ny9 said:


> Have you any way of recording some raw footage? If not I'm sure we can sort something out - we're not a million miles from each other (although it sometimes feels like it ).


Heck, Devon *is* another country after all... :lol: I suppose I could have a shot with TPTB's camera in "movie mode" - I know mine's hopeless. It's finding the Tuits, as usual, so the world is probably safe for a while longer. 8-[

Baby oil, to stop your baby squeaking... Reminds me of a one liner in a Cary Grant film (sorry, altogether too girlie a post this one) in which he's handed coconut milk to drink. He tries it, pulls a face then remembers he's supposed to be being polite and smacking his lips says "Mmm, mmm. Baby coconuts must love it"

Cheers, Alf

Don't mind me; I'm in a very odd mood this week. And no comments about "what d'you mean 'this week'?" please...


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## mel (21 Oct 2006)

have you got a sore throat alf ??? 
thats two blank messages 
arrrr the silence :lol:


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## gidon (21 Oct 2006)

Alf":3sh7js41 said:


> Sheesh, right old soap opera plot though, eh?



Yep and my wife never told me there were 4, hour long episodes! Still saves me ever having to read the novel .



Alf":3sh7js41 said:


> I suppose I could have a shot with TPTB's camera in "movie mode" - I know mine's hopeless.



Yep I'm sure that'd do the trick. As I mentioned - YouTube reduces it significantly anyway. Just try and use a tripod or a stack of books to rest the camera on - really helps the compression and hence the quality. Give me a shout if you want any help.

Your last reference to the Cary Grant film is far too clever for me :?!

Cheers

Gidon


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## Alf (21 Oct 2006)

gidon":dm5wst84 said:


> Just try and use a tripod or a stack of books to rest the camera on


Ha hum - grandmothers? Eggs? :roll: :wink:



gidon":dm5wst84 said:


> Your last reference to the Cary Grant film is far too clever for me :?!


Coconut milk? For baby coconuts? It's one that takes a while to fully dawn, it's true. Helps to flip your sense of humour to the surreal setting probably... 8-[ :lol: 

Cheers, Alf

P.S. Mel, or is it John, do I take it my pearls of wisdom aren't making it to a computer monitor near you? If so, don't say it too loud - they'll all want one. :wink:


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## gidon (23 Oct 2006)

Sorry Alf - didn't think it was so obvious for video stuff - wasn't to me anyway .

Well I guess I need to get things moving a little on this one. It seems from the replies that there is some interest - but video recording capabilities aren't as rife as I thought. Still please anyone interested give it a go and add to this thread. I'll try something else in the next week or so. 

Cheers

Gidon


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## woodbloke (23 Oct 2006)

Alf wrote:


> I've been using lamp oil


I use the same stuff on my DMT stones if its called heating oil (central heating stuff) and it has the added benefit that its *really* cheap, 'specially if you know someone what's got oil fired cental heating and you can 'obtain' the odd quart or so when the delivery man cometh. In addition, it is quite the best stuff I have ever come across for cleaning paint brushes - Rob


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## Steve Maskery (31 Oct 2006)

Here'smine.

It's very frustrating not being able to work the camera and perform at the same time.

Still getting quicker at editing - we filmed it just this afternoon and it's on the web now! (Better than 78 secs in 10 days, eh?).

EDIT - Apparently it's called the Rule of Thales. (Is that pronounced Tay-lees? Any Classicists here? Not me, I'm from Stoke.)


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## Nick W (31 Oct 2006)

What a neat idea Steve. I've never come across it before, but it is an implementation of the 'angle in a semi-circle is a right angle' principle. I shall be making one of those in very short order.


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## wizer (31 Oct 2006)

very good Steve, certianly taught me something I didn't know before


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## Paul Chapman (31 Oct 2006)

Great gadget, Steve - never seen one of those before :wink: 

Cheers

Paul


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## Steve Maskery (31 Oct 2006)

Thanks guys.
I really don't know where I got it from. An old FW, probably. It's something I've just always known, really. Maybe my dad showed it me, I really can't remember.

The headboard isn't really a very good example, because measuring diagonals would be more appropriate there, but it is useful if you are fixing something square where you don't have a diagonal to measure. And you can easily make huge ones for laying out in the garden - foundations, paths etc.

Does anyone know how to improve the lighting? That was done under two halogen site lights, and it still looks dark. It looked fine in the camcorder, but not after I transferred it to PC. I'm wondering if I have to set some sort of white balance on my cam. I thought it was automatic when I switch on. Still got lots to learn, obviously.


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## Alf (31 Oct 2006)

Ooo, very professional, Steve. I like - and I like the gadget too. =D> =D> =D> 

Cheers, Alf


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## Aragorn (31 Oct 2006)

Good stuff Steve!

Where can I find "back-drop" curtains like yours? Very nice.  

Can you not tweak the lighting with some software?


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## DaveL (31 Oct 2006)

Steve, 

Nice one, good video and a very useful tool, yet another tuit required. :roll:


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## Steve Maskery (31 Oct 2006)

Aragorn":12mdtv9p said:


> Where can I find "back-drop" curtains like yours?



Easy. You marry a woman with VERY expensive tastes!


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## Colin C (31 Oct 2006)

Nice video Steve and a good idea  

One I will have to make


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## Jake (31 Oct 2006)

Thayliz, I think.


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## JFC (31 Oct 2006)

Forgive me if im wrong or missing something but isn't it easier to put a nail in a bit of timber and mark off the diagonal at the other end , then do the same on the other diagonal ?
P.S nice vid .


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## Steve Maskery (31 Oct 2006)

JFC":cioa7gv5 said:


> ... isn't it easier to put a nail in a bit of timber and mark off the diagonal at the other end , then do the same on the other diagonal ?



Hi Jason
Yes, that is perfectly OK, of course. But sometimes you don't have a diagonal to measure -either it's an open frame or there is something in the way. This is useful in those circumstances.


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## gidon (31 Oct 2006)

Steve 
Excellent stuff! I love the tip - never heard of that one. And very professional video too. 
With all that lighting you have - I would definately try a custom white balance if your camera has it - should be as simple as filling the frame with a piece of white paper or card and hitting a button. If no custom white balance try the different built in settings to see what works best. Your camera should be able to cope with those lighting conditions just fine. If it is getting confused on the exposure try some exposure compensation perhaps?
I must really get around to producing another clip of something.
I'll update the first post with our two links. 
Cheers
Gidon


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## JFC (31 Oct 2006)

Ahhh you have a point there Steve but didn't that Pythagoras fella work all this out a million years ago http://www.teacherschoice.com.au/Maths_Library/Trigonometry/pythagoras_1.htm
I can see that its a handy tool to make for yourself but when Trend start charging lots of money for one 3 4 5 is a cheaper option .
Ive just noticed ive put a link up for a school page  sorry chaps , i blame google !


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## Anonymous (31 Oct 2006)

I'm afraid I have to egree with JFC all it's a 345 in disguise. When all the points touch its the same.

If you use a 345 the angle is less than 90 if the right angle doesnt touch the corner and if it touches the corner but leaves gaps its bigger than 90.


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## Lord Nibbo (31 Oct 2006)

Brilliant Steve. Like Paul I've never seen one before, but first thing tomorrow I'll have one.  Maybe two a bigun & a little un. :lol:


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## simuk (31 Oct 2006)

Yep 345 never leave home without it


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## Anonymous (1 Nov 2006)

You must enter a message when posting


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## dedee (1 Nov 2006)

Steve,
nice video and excellant gadget which should not be too difficult to make.
Thanks for sharing.

From your link.... The Coincidence of a Harmonic Sequence with the Square Root Rectangle Progression..
Yeah explains it all :shock: :roll: 

Andy


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## gidon (9 Feb 2007)

Well, prompted by Vormulac's post, I went up to my shed at lunchtime and did a quick video on sharpening with waterstones. And for filsgreen's sake I used a plane iron this time . This is by no means the definitive guide on using waterstones and it quickly reminded me why I prefer to use my diamond stones (camcorders and waterstone sludge don't mix well)! But may be useful to someone out there for getting started at least.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__DT-YwGHgc
Sorry about the croaky voice!
Still looking forward to others contributing their video masterpieces !
Cheers
Gidon
(Steve how come you've got 3 times as many hits on your video than I have? I know you're an international superstar 'n all but still :lol:.


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## Paul Chapman (9 Feb 2007)

That was excellent, Gidon =D> Just as a matter of interest, how do you find waterstones compare with diamond stones and the film that you used in your previous video? (not the mess, just the end result :lol: )

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## gidon (9 Feb 2007)

Thanks Paul! I get a better edge using the 0.5 micron microfilm. Not sure if it's just because the microfilm is finer "grit" - I guess a finer waterstone should give a more comparable result? According to Norton0.5 micron is equivalent to a 15,000 grit waterstone! 
Cheers
Gidon


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## Paul Chapman (9 Feb 2007)

Thanks Gidon. Might give that film a try one day - currently I use diamond stones, WD40 and a leather strop which I'm very pleased with. 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## gidon (9 Feb 2007)

Paul - I'm not sure you'll find much difference versus you leather strop. The microfilm really takes it from sharp to really sharp like your leather strop. For me it's just a little more controlled and consistant than using a strop. If you want to try the film I can send you bit if you like - just PM me.
Cheers
Gidon


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## Vormulac (10 Feb 2007)

Great video Gidon, very useful indeed! More please!

V.


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## gidon (12 Feb 2007)

Vormulac - glad you liked it! They are quite good fun to do.
Cheers
Gidon


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## woodbloke (12 Feb 2007)

Good clip on sharpening with waterstones. I used to have the same waterstone bath but I cut a large hole in my sharpening table so that the rim of the bath was level with the table surface - just made it lower that's all and maybe slightly easier to use....but the mess :evil: .....wonder who Paul got that leather strop idea from :lol: - Rob


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## Paul Chapman (12 Feb 2007)

woodbloke":2yt02tqj said:


> .....wonder who Paul got that leather strop idea from :lol: - Rob



At Ally Pally on Saturday, Mike Husdon from Clifton was demonstrating the use of a strop and was explaining how it's best to occasionally scrape off the build-up of polishing compound, so I shared with him your excellent idea of mixing the polishing compound with Vaseline to keep the strop supple and stop the build up - he seemed quite interested  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## gidon (12 Feb 2007)

Thanks Rob. I bought the waterstone pond pretty much exactly the same time I gave up on waterstones! It's neat if you use waterstones though. And the decent sized piece of toughened glass is handy.
Cheers
Gidon


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## Steve Maskery (12 Feb 2007)

OK Gidon, here's another little morsel for your collection:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwIqL8CaC5k

It's not as exciting as the quick-change people though!

Cheers
Steve


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## woodbloke (12 Feb 2007)

Paul Chapman wrote;


> mixing the polishing compound with Vaseline


Paul - I've noticed that there still is a build up of goo towards the bottom of the strop which needs to be removed. I'm having some thoughts on using liquid paraffin on the strop (instead of Vaseline) which ought to give a more 'soapy' (if that's the right term) sort of consistency on the leather....not sure, will have to have a play around - Rob


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## Paul Chapman (13 Feb 2007)

woodbloke":trc2cyd1 said:


> I'm having some thoughts on using liquid paraffin on the strop



Well it might speed things up - they often use liquid paraffin as a laxative :shock: :shock: :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Vormulac (13 Feb 2007)

That reminds me (I have no idea why), Gidon, where did you obtain your ultra fine honing film-type stuff? It looks the business, but the only places I've found selling it over here are large wholesale suppliers who haven't deigned to reply to any of my emails.  

V.


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## gidon (13 Feb 2007)

Very good Steve! I like the idea of different widths and thicknesses in one. What wood did you use and how did you cut them - any neat tricks? We seem to be a two man band on this thread - must be some other budding film makers here? 
V. - this is where I got the film from: Tools for Working Wood. Not the cheapest but I only use it for the final step so doesn't work out expensive. And if you're careful with it it lasts quite well. You can get adhesive backed film too (twice the price). Mount this on some glass for good results.
Cheers
Gidon


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## Steve Maskery (13 Feb 2007)

Hi Gidon
They are all cut from a length of cherry.
I took an offcut and thicknessed it down to 12mm. I have a panel sander so it's easy to take off a small amount, and a digital vernier makes for accurate measuring. Then I cut off a few inches.

I then thicknessed it down to 10mm and did the same.

The last bit I stuck down with DS tape before thicknessing.

For the lengths, I have an accurate stop on my SCMS (or RAS, as it was at the time). Final trimming was with a shooting board. Again the digital Verniers are a boon.

I made them for my mortiser, but they are useful on the router too, especially on my older Elu96, which just has that stupid flag thingy.

Cheers
Steve


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## Alf (13 Feb 2007)

Gentlemen, I give you my film debut. Slightly complicated by my camera being without an audio option, and the parrots being without a mute button... :roll: 

Cheers, Alf


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## gidon (13 Feb 2007)

Great stuff Alf! Love the voice over with parrots directing too!
Makes my two demos on sharpening look like a right faff .
Where do you get a hand cranked grinder like that? Read in one of Krenov's books I think about their advantages (hard to overheat the blade for one). But never seen them - even second hand.
I'm really glad and impressed you managed it with an audio-less digicam - I'm sure most people on the group have at least that.

Steve - thanks for the explanation - I've been meaning to make something like those for my router table - you've pursuaded me to move it up my todo list - with a few improvements too!

Cheers

Gidon


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## Paul Chapman (13 Feb 2007)

Alf":2uh0qakn said:


> Gentlemen, I give you my film debut.



Great stuff, Alf =D> Was that Bertie or the other one (or maybe both) providing the background music? :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Alf (13 Feb 2007)

Gidon, hand cranked grinders seem to come in waves. I can go for a year and more and not see one, then literally trip over 3 or 4 at one car boot. Getting a good one, and specifically one that can take a 6" wheel is the tricky thing. I'll keep an eye out if I know there's demand.  

Paul you won't believe it but I'm so immune to those birds now I didn't even hear the din they were making until I played it back. #-o The raucous screeches are "the other one" with a tuneful contribution near the end that's definitely Bertie. Could be wrong though - as soon as it plays they join in with themselves so it's hard to hear who's who or when.

Cheers, Alf


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## SketchUp Guru (13 Feb 2007)

Very good ALF. You make it look so simple. One day I'll have to have you show me in person how it's done. You can demonstrate on one of my irons.


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## promhandicam (14 Feb 2007)

gidon":3mugjyhq said:


> Where do you get a hand cranked grinder like that?



Hi Gidon and thanks for the videos. It is still possible to get the hand cranked grinders new in darkest africa 8) I'm not there at the moment so I'm not sure what size wheel they take but from memory they aren't too expensive. I can find out if you are interested and could maybe bring one to the UK next time I travel.

Cheers,

Steve


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## Philly (15 Feb 2007)

Love it Al! =D> 
You'll be cutting dado's on a table saw next........... :lol: 
Philly


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## DomValente (15 Feb 2007)

Very nice Alf,

I really want to say they make 'lectric ones as well, but am too impressed with your skill. Well done

Steve, interesting, never seen the pointy sticky thingy, will definitely make one.

Dom


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## gidon (19 Feb 2007)

Steve, Alf
Very kind of you both. I'm not so desperate for one - but thank you. And there's a chap in my local town's market who could prolly get one in if I asked him. Making a complete mess of my marking knife on the electric grinder yesterday has put me off grinders all together anyway!
Cheers
Gidon


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## Steve Maskery (14 Mar 2007)

One about pushsticks.

One aboutbiscuit jointers and Domino tools.

and a Waggleometerfor Domino users only.

Cheers
Steve


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## woodshavings (14 Mar 2007)

Hi Steve, particularly liked the push stick for routing - thanks for posting on utube.
Look forward to news of your DVD!
John


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## Slim (14 Mar 2007)

Very good Steve.

Nice shirt BTW  :wink:


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## Steve Maskery (14 Mar 2007)

John
Thank you. I take it that's one sale then? Excellent, one down 1999 to go to break even, I reckon... :? 



Slimjim81":3qydv516 said:


> Nice shirt BTW  :wink:



That shirt has caused me more problems than a little. It's difficult to find the right place for the mic, and, although it's quite snug really (I'm a fat old geezer these days) it looks baggy, and I just know I'm going to get complaints about loose sleeves in the workshop. Right now I need encouragement not castigation, as it's getting wearing, so thank you very much both!

PS Anyone know where I can get a new multi-coloured rugby shirt from that doesn't have a sponsor splashed all over it?


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## gidon (20 Mar 2007)

Steve I missed your post - great vids - thanks for taking the time!
I too really like that router push stick - I think I'll be having a go at one very shortly! 
Cheers
Gidon


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## Paul Chapman (20 Mar 2007)

Hi Steve,

I missed those as well :roll: I thought the one for marking the centre lines for the biscuit and Domino jointers was brilliant. Thanks  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Chris Knight (20 Mar 2007)

Steve,
I too hadn't seen them - they are very good and indeed helpful. Keep it up!


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## llangatwgnedd (21 Mar 2007)

I also missed S Maskery videos as well.
*Mods*
What the chances of having a sticky with all the links of these excellent clips of UKW forum members video tips with just links and no comments?


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## ByronBlack (21 Mar 2007)

Maybe we should start a UKWorkshop podcast and register with itunes, that way we can all stay synchronised if a new member adds one of their videos.


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## gidon (21 Mar 2007)

I'll happily update the OP with the links if that helps ...
Cheers
Gidon


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## Charley (21 Mar 2007)

All the videos are great  =D> 

I'm planning to list/link to them on the new version of UKW so hopefully we'll have our own 'video' section with RSS updates..


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## DomValente (21 Mar 2007)

New version ? what, when, where did I miss something ? :?


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## woodshavings (21 Mar 2007)

DomValente":3o8sj3kh said:


> New version ? what, when, where did I miss something ? :?



Me too????? 8-[ 
John


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## ByronBlack (21 Mar 2007)

ooh charley, you've dropped a rather subtle bombshell there!! RSS and video I like very much!!


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## Charley (22 Mar 2007)

DomValente":1wsfzpo9 said:


> New version ? what, when, where did I miss something ? :?



A 'new version' of the main UKW site is currently in development. At the current rate it should be ready to go live in Jan 2009 :roll: :-$


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## Alf (22 Mar 2007)

Charley":26zxbl81 said:


> At the current rate it should be ready to go live in Jan 2009 :roll: :-$


Ooo, optimist!  

BTW, all pics moved - ta muchly.

Cheers, Alf


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## Paul.J (25 Mar 2007)

Steve.Great clips their on the pushsticks.
One concern though is the stick for the bandsaw.
As you say the force from the blade is driving the work down,but you are pushing towards the blade.If the work slips,which is easily done on the bandsaw, your hand is going to go straight into the blade.
Please correct me if i am seeing this method wrong.
Paul.J.


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## Steve Maskery (25 Mar 2007)

Paul, thank you for your contribution, but I see it differently.

For a start, the blade is guarded. The guard is down to just a few mm of the blade, or a bit higher if the workpiece is narrower than the guard unit itself (so I can get the push-stick in). The design of the pushstick is deliberate - the handle is vertical and at the top of the pushstick. This means that, in the event you describe, my hand will, at worst, bash into the guard, not into the blade. Now if you use the machine with the guard up, then you will be at risk as you describe.

I have nicked my thumb on the bandsaw just once, and it was enough of a hint. Needless to say, the guard was too high and I wasn't using a push-stick.

Used as described I believe the risk of blade injury is about Planck's Constant 

Cheers
Steve


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## Scrit (25 Mar 2007)

I'm not really going to argue this one too much, but....... The standard approach taught in colleges since the 1960s is to use one or two push sticks and keep your hands some 350 to 400mm away from the blade at all times if possible. In reality I tend to man-handle materials right up until the last foot or so then just pick-up a push stick and push through. . 

If you use an "overhand" pusher such as yours that will lead to your hand at the end of the rip being beside the saw blade between the fence and the blade and will put you in a position of potentially having an arm over the top of the crown guard or moving across the front of the blade. If you were to execute that manouvre on a saw with an overhead crown guard such as a my panel saw or Seaco's overhead crown guard you'd risk getting entangled in the guard support. Try it on a larger diameter saw, such as this Wadkin BSW rip saw:







and even with the nosing guard pulled down you'll be running the risk of injury. Same goes for the bandsaw. The forward position pusher such as yours _might_ at a tight pinch be regarded as all right on a 10in saw with a crown guard mounted atop the riving knife, but with a suspended SUVA-type guard the guard suspension mechanism gets in the way and on bigger circular saws or band saws the blade itself becomes an very dangerous obstacle. The rule is simple - don't bend body over a blade. Even on a 12in saw you could have as much as 4in (vertical) of blade exposed at the end of cut, after the material has gone through - more than enough to get a skin/blade contact. the bigger the machine, the greater the danger. But I'd also suggest that you don't want your hand alongside the blade just in case that cracked bit at the end of the piece breaks off, richochets off the crown guard and raps you smartly over the knuckles. But then I'm a natural coward.

And who's to say what an amateur woodworker may have in their workshop? Before anyone says it I have known self-builders with 16in Dominion Elliott combination saws and even one brave soul with a 24in Wilson rip saw on a single phase motor. So that makes me a traditionalist and naysayer, I'm afraid, on the subject of American push-stick design :roll: 

Scrit


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## Alf (26 Mar 2007)

Steve, can I say "told you so" now...? :wink: :lol: 

Cheers, Alf


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## Steve Maskery (26 Mar 2007)

I will go so far as to admit that a pushstick like that is not the appropriate one to use with a saw like that. If I ever get one, I'll change my pushstick at the same time. 
S


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## Steve Maskery (20 Nov 2007)

Hi folks
Here's a short vid about the short rip fence I made and have recently improved.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=d7QXIN2X8-w

And here is a jig for cutting very narrow strips on the tablesaw.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=lp4ZR5WsL9w


The free downloads I refer to aren't there just at this moment, but I hope they will be by the end of the day.

Enjoy
S


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## gidon (22 Nov 2007)

Fantastic stuff Steve! Love the narrow rip setting jig - definately something I need to make!
Thanks
Gidon


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## Paul Chapman (22 Nov 2007)

Excellent stuff, Steve - thanks for posting.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## gidon (3 Jul 2008)

Resurrecting an old thread - I have a new video up on:
Freehand grinding and honing
(Note Youtube are finally adding some improvements and this vid is available in standard and high quality .)
Please feel free to contribute vids to this thread - if you need any help in how to go about it, please ask - it's not difficult.
Cheers
Gidon


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## Anonymous (3 Jul 2008)

Good stuff Gidon, well done.


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## gidon (3 Jul 2008)

Thanks Steve!
Cheers
Gidon


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## Anonymous (3 Jul 2008)

Nice job Gidon. I wish I could explain things in such a calm and relaxed manner.

One question....how do keep the chisel at 90 degress to the grinder (or does this not matter with chisels?). I notice you've got the groove in your platform for a 'slider'. Is this something you use?

You've obviously used your fair share of honing creams/compounds. Why the autosol rather than the others? What put you off using the others?

Cheers,

Dave


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## gidon (3 Jul 2008)

Hi Dave 
Thanks for your comments!
The easiest way is not to grind all the way to the edge of the tool - and use the honed metal as your guide for a square edge - so keep checking and adjust where you apply pressure accordingly. It's easier than it sounds if you give a go - just use a light touch.
If you don't have a square edge to start with - the easiest way is use a small engineers square and mark the back of the bevel as close to the front as you like with a marker. Then grind the blade blunt (the metal at 90 degrees to the wheel) until you get to this line. Then you can set your tool rest and grind to the edge - checking the thickness of the blunt edge, making sure it's even across it width - you'll see what I mean if you give it a go. As you get closer to removing the blunt edge stop frequently because it's very easy to burn the steel. (Note this is also the method you'd use to change to a steeper bevel).
I do have a guide that can run in that groove (off an Axminster honing jig) - it's also a handy place to hold your fingers freehand on wider plane blades for example.
I don't often use Autosol but because I was putting this video on Youtube I'd thought I'd use something non-specialist. I find it a little coarse. My favorite is probably that green Veritas stuff. Mainly because it's easy to rub (softer than other honing soaps I've tried) on MDF or leather and doesn't leave a load of nasty gunk on my fingers. It's also way finer than Autosol I'd say.
Hope that makes sense.
Cheers
Gidon


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## wizer (3 Jul 2008)

Thanks for this gidon. Not wanting another machine in the workshop, I have been re-grinding bevels on an eze-lap course stone using a Veritas Mk2. It cuts at an alarming rate, much quicker than W&D. Must try some of that green soap.


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## gidon (3 Jul 2008)

Wizer I used and still occasionally use an extra coarse DMT stone for grinding back the bevel - you're right it's quick enough a lot of the time. If you don't let the secondary bevel get too big and you don't use the chisels for opening paint pots () it's very manageable on a coarse bench stone. 
Unfortunately if you wany to try the technique in the video it's much easier with a hollow grind . FWIW my bench grinder sits in the gardening shed! Which suits me because it's a messy old thing.
Cheers
Gidon


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## joiner_sim (4 Jul 2008)

gidon = i watched all your 3 videos on you tube and thought they were pretty good  I tend to usually get good result on my eze-lap diamond stone, 600 & 250 grit. I sharpen all my chisels and hand planes on this. However my tools never seem to stay sharp for long. I do woodwork as a job, so maybe it is continuous use, and me thinking that they'd only been sharpened five minutes ago when in reality it was a few days ago!? :? Anyway, I saw your freehand grinding and honing video, I always hone freehand, but grinding is something I don't like doing! I thought your idea of a wooden block with the angle was excellent! I am always using wooden blocks to plane bevels on with the surfacer, but never thought about this with the grinder! I might have a go now at grinding one of the older chisels to see if this makes any difference in my grinding technique, and if it goes wrong, oh well it was only an older chisel! Hopefully I have learn't something about grinding tonight and it will help me progress.


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## gidon (5 Jul 2008)

Hi JS
Very glad you enjoyed the videos and even got something from them! It's definately easier not grinding right to the edge of the chisel - the honed edge makes it easy to check progress and there's less risk of burning the tip.
Cheers
Gidon


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## Steve Maskery (27 Jan 2009)

Don't you just love it when someone resurrects a long-dead thread? 

Some of you may have seen an article I wrote in British Woodworking a few issues ago. It was rather immodestly called the Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig.

Well since I made the original it has undergone a couple of generations of improvements (does that mean it is now the Ultimate-Post-Ultimate?). I've made a film of it and a trailer can be seen here. If you've seen the original article you can see that the base is a bit more complex here; it has an extra layer which makes it possible to have a fine adjuster on the back (although you can't see that in the trailer).

There is an advert at the end, so stop watching after about 8 minutes if you wish to avoid it!

Enjoy
Steve


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## gidon (27 Jan 2009)

Brilliant Steve! And great video too. One thing - apart from for cutting offset cheeks, is there any advantage of this design and the FWW you show where the two cheek cuts are adjusted independently, over just rotating the piece to cut the other cheek?
Cheers
Gidon


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## wizer (27 Jan 2009)

gidon":alm1fxr9 said:


> One thing - apart from for cutting offset cheeks, is there any advantage of this design and the FWW you show where the two cheek cuts are adjusted independently, over just rotating the piece to cut the other cheek?
> Cheers
> Gidon



Does that method require you to cut tenons first? I thought the idea was to cut mortises first and then tenons to fit?

(I've never machine cut an M&T joint)


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## Steve Maskery (27 Jan 2009)

gidon":1iitf0xy said:


> is there any advantage of this design and the FWW you show where the two cheek cuts are adjusted independently, over just rotating the piece to cut the other cheek?



Hi Gidon
Yes there is. If you turn the workpiece round then you are referencing off two cheeks instead of just one. If the workpieces vary in thickness, even slightly, then the tenons will vary too. It's the weakness of 2 of the three router tenon jigs too.

Also you may well want the tenons to be offset in the thickness of the workpiece, either because the mortice wasn't cut centrally or because you want to avoid one tenon interfering with another.

Hi Wizer
Yes the mortice is cut first, then the tenon cut to match. I make a test tenon first, to get the position about right, then measure how far out it is and use the fine adjuster to get it spot on. Using an M6 leadscrew means that I have to adjust it only once for the whole batch.

Cheers
Steve


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## wizer (27 Jan 2009)

Steve Maskery":322xc8im said:


> then you are referencing off two cheeks instead of just one.



:idea: Cheers Steve


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## Paul Chapman (27 Jan 2009)

That looks excellent, Steve =D> 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Steve Maskery (28 Jan 2009)

Thank you , Paul, I think so too! 
S


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## wizer (28 Jan 2009)

It's the BEST in the WORLD 

I'll be buying a copy, when Aunty pays me.


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## gidon (28 Jan 2009)

OK thanks Steve - makes sense!
Cheers
Gidon


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