# Scary Sharp Revelation



## wizer (20 Oct 2009)

Well I finally got around to ordering my Scary Sharp Kit from Workshop Heaven. I just got the PSA papers, camellia oil and block of float glass. It came a couple of days ago and I've been itching to try it. 

I'm Daddy Daycare today as we couldn't arrange childcare. So after baby's (and Daddy's) nap, I sat down at the dining table and had a play. I sharpened my Veritas BUS and my Boggs 'shaves. I'm not suggesting that the papers are better than the diamond stones that I had, far from it. But I got results that I've never achieved previously. Probably because I took my time with it and followed Matthew's well written instructions (that come with the kit). 

I took the tools back out to the shop and quickly slung a piece of beech in the vice. The BUS worked amazingly. Lovely wispy shaving that I'd not seen since the first time I used it. The shaves were very good also, but they'd kept their edge fairly well with good use (is that the steel type?).

Anyway. I just wanted to blab about it. I'm very happy and the cost is much less than what I've used in the past.

Chisels next.


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## head clansman (20 Oct 2009)

hi tom 

good aint it . hc :wink:


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## OPJ (20 Oct 2009)

wizer":2wp9ie4o said:


> I'm not suggesting that the papers are better than the diamond stones that I had, far from it. But I got results that I've never achieved previously. Probably because I took my time with it and followed Matthew's well written instructions (that come with the kit).



Interesting, Tom. What do really feel makes the difference? Does it cut faster than your diamond stones? Is it the comfort of working on a larger surface area?

Are you still using your Veritas jig with this or have you bought one of those Kell guides as well...? :roll: :twisted: :wink:


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## wizer (20 Oct 2009)

I'm using the Veritas guide and I'm really not sure what the difference is. I'm not sure that there is a difference with the sharpening medium. It's more my frame of mind. By simplifying the whole process, using just three papers instead of 7 stones, it keeps my attention on what I'm doing. It's fair to say that I thought the bling bling diamond kit would make sharpening a breeze. In any case, the main reason for the change of direction was cost. The outlay for scary sharp was £45, less than one of the diamond stones alone. The kit comes with 5 of each paper and I've cut the first three grades in to thirds. It appears to me that, for a hobbiest of my caliber, I won't be buying paper for a long time.


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## Mr Ed (20 Oct 2009)

Interesting. I tried scary sharp years ago with wet and dry and whilst it worked I found it a ball ache. That said, my general woodworking mojo is probably better refined now so I may have a different view if trying again.

Since I need to add some additional sharpening media for the workshop, in addition to the diamond stones I have, I may give the psa lapping sheets a go.

Ed


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## Dave S (20 Oct 2009)

wizer":2s6x5wy4 said:


> By simplifying the whole process, using just three papers instead of 7 stones, it keeps my attention on what I'm doing.


7 stones :shock: That's enough to blow anyone's mind!

Interesting - you got shot of your waterstones because of the mess (as I recall), went to diamond stones and now to scary sharp.

I started with scary sharp and then moved to waterstones and don't really find the waterstones significantly messier than scary sharp.

I found the cost of scary sharp could start to build because of the paper, but even so, £40 seems a lot of money for some abrasive paper and a can of spraymount! (Bearing in mind float glass that size can easily be got for free).

Dave


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## OPJ (20 Oct 2009)

wizer":bdkep4rf said:


> ...using just three papers instead of 7 stones...



Blimey! :shock: _Only seven?!?_ Is that one for each tool or something?!


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## wizer (20 Oct 2009)

I don't find scary sharp messy at all. I bought the PSA backed stuff and I use the tiniest dab of camelia on the first paper and none on the others. It was tidy enough to do it on the dining table. Fair enough I might have got the glass free from somewhere but I'm lazy (hence being on my third sharpening medium). I do agree that Wet and Dry would be cheaper, I haven't got a decent answer for that other than that I like the convenience of the PSA backing. When I get some time I'll make it into a board that I can store the necessary stuff on. In the long run, yes, it'll work out more expensive. But we're talking years and years to spend what I did on the bling. I reckon it'll take me a year to use up these paper. You have to remember that I do very little hand tool work, by choice. (tho having said that I feel the urge to have another go with the shooting board situation).


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## mickthetree (20 Oct 2009)

Hey Wizer

Really pleased you found a method that sits right in your head. I guess thats really. There are many techniques out there, but when you find one that suits you and your situation, then it makes sense that it is the method for you.

I watched Alfs method on youtube today and I have to say it looks a darn site quicker and less messy than my combination waterstone.

Love that hand cranked wheel too!


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## Alf (20 Oct 2009)

I've been soundly beaten to the "Seven stones?!" cry of incredulity, I see. :lol: I think everyone goes down the Scary Sharp route at some point - and virtually everyone ends up giving it the elbow. Be interesting to see how you fair, Tom. And that's from genuine interest, not sarcasm. I've gone through pretty much all the sharpening medium possiblities and can't afford to throw any sarcastic stones. 

Cheers, Alf


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## Doug B (20 Oct 2009)

Dave S":1qrjcsg8 said:


> (Bearing in mind float glass that size can easily be got for free).
> 
> Dave



I agree you can get an off cut free, but i doubt you will get the edges ground for nothing, & i wouldn`t want to use a rough cut piece of glass when sharpening.


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## Doug B (20 Oct 2009)

Alf":3rc7zned said:


> I think everyone goes down the Scary Sharp route at some point - and virtually everyone ends up giving it the elbow.
> 
> Cheers, Alf




Out of interest, why do you say this. I`ve looked at most ways of sharpening & the system Matthew is selling seems the least hassle & minimal mess.


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## mickthetree (20 Oct 2009)

noticed a friends TV stand the other day. measured it up and the glass shelf is the same thickness as my piece of float glass, 40cm wide and 90cm long. Beveled edges too.

Not sure this is the same thing I bought, but looked ruddy flat to me.

So maybe one could pick up a piece from the local tip or similar?

Having said that, our local tip seem to have a policy of not allowing anything to be purchased or taken these days.

Probably a H&S thing I imagine.


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## Doug B (20 Oct 2009)

mickthetree":1qt78ilt said:


> noticed a friends TV stand the other day. measured it up and the glass shelf is the same thickness as my piece of float glass, 40cm wide and 90cm long. Beveled edges too.



Chances are Mick the glass shelf would be toughened, which means it wouldn`t be a flat as float glass, due to its re-heating during the toughening process.


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## Alf (20 Oct 2009)

Doug B":q3y7cdm8 said:


> Alf":q3y7cdm8 said:
> 
> 
> > I think everyone goes down the Scary Sharp route at some point - and virtually everyone ends up giving it the elbow.
> ...


Expense, mess, fuss, unhappy about have a piece of glass skulling about the workshop - all sorts of reasons. It tends to be a real limiting factor if you want to go freehand too, 'cos the paper tears. I'm not familiar with Matthew's kit, but I imagine many of the same problems occur. Scary Sharp is one of those wonder solutions that gets rediscovered every few years - I know I'm getting old as this is probably the third time I've witnessed its re-discovery.  Don't get me wrong; it does suit some people very well, but it's worth keeping in mind that those ancient old methods like oil and waterstones - and the much less ancient diamond stones - still survive and it's not just for their novelty value. I absolutely don't want to say to folks that they should ignore it, 'cos whatever suits the individual and makes sharp tools is a Good Thing, just, you know, don't assume it's the holy grail. Back in the mists of time I was arrogant enough to say the solution to sharpening was to "Pick a system and stick with it" - still arrogant, but still, I believe, true. The medium doesn't make the sharp edge; the practice and experience does. It's a constant source of frustration to all us amateurs that you can't buy those things with a credit card.  

Cheers, Alf


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## Mr Ed (20 Oct 2009)

Alf":43abqksj said:


> Back in the mists of time I was arrogant enough to say the solution to sharpening was to "Pick a system and stick with it" - still arrogant, but still, I believe, true. The medium doesn't make the sharp edge; the practice and experience does.



I think thats very true - whichever system works for the individual, thats the one to go for.

My 2 cents;

Waterstones - too messy and a PITA to keep flat
Oilstones - never used any good ones, the ones I have tried seemed slow
Diamond - my current method and one I can see no obvious fault with other than start up cost
Scary Sharp - used to be a PITA due to ripping wet and dry and having to spraymount it down, but the new plastic based sheets with adhesive on may remove those issues. In the interests of giving it a go I've ordered some from Matthew.

Cheers, Ed


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## wizer (20 Oct 2009)

Well, 6 Diamond plates and one Spyderco Ceramic, Not pictured:







Plus leather strop. :lol: 

I'm not knocking that method, it's just I couldn't justify the massive outlay for the minuscule amount of handwork I do. Thankfully I made my money back on them so I can justify my reasons (tho I'm not tellin' what I spent the money on [-X ) Still, let's not get into another debate about expensive toys (cos that's all they are, for me).

As I said above. This particular flavour of scary sharp is no messier than the diamonds and is more compact. I have a place to store the paraphanalia, so I'm not sure if that'll ever become a problem. Again, no more of a problem than any other medium. With my track record, I'm not going to say I won't change my mind again. But I think this is a keeper. 8)


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## Karl (20 Oct 2009)

In fairness Tom, I don't really see that anybody could possibly need 7 stones to sharpen blades. Its complete overkill (says the man with too many planes despite selling half of them :lol: ).

One double sided diamond stone, a couple of honing soaps and a scrap of MDF - perfect!

Cheers

Karl


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## wizer (20 Oct 2009)

Yes I agree Karl, now. I can't explain it. I get these ideas...


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## wizer (20 Oct 2009)

I might as well ask here rather than post a new thread.

Before I go back to watch DC's dvd's, can someone please tell me if spokeshave blades benefit from the 'ruler trick' and indeed is it worth doing it on my LV BUS?

I know you don't do it on chisels. Just wondering if there is any benefit over what I've already got?


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## Karl (20 Oct 2009)

Tom - I use the "ruler trick" (albeit without a ruler - I just raise the blade a touch "freehand") on all plane blades. It also saves on the requirement to flatten the backs of plane blades which don't have a chipbreaker (block, shoulder, Philly woodies etc).

Cheers

Karl


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## woodbloke (20 Oct 2009)

wizer":o4s0sy5j said:


> I might as well ask here rather than post a new thread.
> 
> Before I go back to watch DC's dvd's, can someone please tell me if spokeshave blades benefit from the 'ruler trick' and indeed is it worth doing it on my LV BUS?
> 
> I know you don't do it on chisels. Just wondering if there is any benefit over what I've already got?


Yes :lol: 
If you're using Matthew's sticky down papers on float glass, then you're half way there Tom. The *real* revelation will come on Saturday at the GSB when you can use the KIII to see just how good the system is, hence all my blathering in the earlier thread. I agree about the papers tearing...that's the one thing you need to be careful about and it's caused by miniscule bits of crud or a burr on the actual honed bevel, so I now generally just wipe it (the bevel) before honing. If you want to see how to fit the Boggs blades into the Kell, all will be revealed :wink: - Rob


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## Harbo (20 Oct 2009)

A real challenge is the LV Small Scraper Plane blade with a Guide.
You can hold it with the LV Small Blade Holder but that will not fit the LV Guide nor the Kell III.
Wonder if it fits the Kell II but then again the blade is so short?

Rod

Have fun on Saturday when I will be "enjoying" a 7.5 hour flight!
Do not think I can persuade my better half to allow me to visit TFWW again - the area was a bit scary (and I do not mean sharp!)


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## wizer (20 Oct 2009)

I'm sure SWMBO can busy herself in Macey's for a couple hours Rod :lol: 

Rob, No problems fitting the Boggs shaves in the LV MKII. No bits of wood to set it either  :lol:


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## Ironballs (20 Oct 2009)

Can't believe we're having a sharpening debate again, I blame you Tom :wink: 

I still stand by my 3 waterstones and Veritas MkII as verified by my bald left hand


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## devonwoody (21 Oct 2009)

If we go back 150 years to those beautifully crafted pieces of furniture made with hard wood, I bet they just used elbow grease to get the tools sharp.
This is what the sharpening debate is all about in my opinion, time it takes to sharpen when you want to get on with a job you are doing.


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## woodbloke (21 Oct 2009)

Harbo":3jza013q said:


> A real challenge is the LV Small Scraper Plane blade with a Guide.
> You can hold it with the LV Small Blade Holder but that will not fit the LV Guide nor the Kell III.
> Wonder if it fits the Kell II but then again the blade is so short?


I was looking at this last night and I've come to the conclusion that as it's so small it won't easily fit into any guide and is one of those awkward little sods that'll have to be honed freehand. I can't help but wonder as well if Mr Lee hasn't shot himself in the foot (_again_) because the blade is so small. The equivalent tilty handle scraper from LN has a decent sized blade that could easily be fitted into a guide - Rob


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## Boz62 (21 Oct 2009)

If using Wet & Dry for scary sharp with a Kell 3, then you are only sharpening on the pull stroke. This means that you only need to clip the abrasive at the far end. This means no spray mounts, and only one narrow flat surface required. Just clip and unclip the abrasive as required. It also means that it is simple to move the abrasive to the side of the support so that you can touch up the rear of the blade as you go with it still in the Kell. Then final polishing with Autosol on a small piece of MDF. And it all takes up less space in a small workshop. 

Works well for me. But each to their own.

Boz


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## wizer (21 Oct 2009)

Good point about clipping at the front. Didn't think of that. Will try it when the PSA's run out.


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## bugbear (21 Oct 2009)

Doug B":14ws1hy8 said:


> Dave S":14ws1hy8 said:
> 
> 
> > (Bearing in mind float glass that size can easily be got for free).
> ...



Heh. SiC, norton india stones and diamond stones (IME) will all abrade glass. Grind the edges yourself!

BugBear


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## bugbear (21 Oct 2009)

wizer":1xcj971i said:


> Yes I agree Karl, now. I can't explain it. I get these ideas...



We've noticed!

BugBear


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## DaveL (21 Oct 2009)

wizer":g95755kb said:


> Yes I agree Karl, now. I can't explain it. I get these ideas...


Stop listening to the voices Tom, you know it makes sense. :roll: :wink:


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## wizer (21 Oct 2009)

I can't get a certain ringing out of my ears recently. My doctor says it's tinnitus but it sounds more like bonimo or gorido or something or other :-k :duno:


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## Mr Ed (21 Oct 2009)

wizer":itvqxvul said:


> I can't get a certain ringing out of my ears recently. My doctor says it's tinnitus but it sounds more like bonimo or gorido or something or other :-k :duno:



Only one known cure for that. Let me know once you're bored of it and I'll make you an offer.

Ed


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## Dave S (23 Oct 2009)

Doug B":3ixqxlla said:


> Dave S":3ixqxlla said:
> 
> 
> > (Bearing in mind float glass that size can easily be got for free).
> ...


I was lucky in that respect, but if you permanently mount the glass on a piece of mdf you can put a 'frame' around to cover the edges. Rob (Woodbloke) has posted pics previously of the setup he uses for flattening planes - that's the kind of thing I mean.

Dave


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## Chems (23 Oct 2009)

I'd challenge anyone to get a dulled blade super sharp quicker and easier than I/you can on the tormek. I don't bother with second bevels or anything as when done on the 2 wheels its more than sharp enough to take shavings.


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## wizer (24 Oct 2009)

Chems":2z2e7972 said:


> I'd challenge anyone to get a dulled blade super sharp quicker and easier than I/you can on the tormek. I don't bother with second bevels or anything as when done on the 2 wheels its more than sharp enough to take shavings.



All for just £400 :roll:


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## Mr Ed (24 Oct 2009)

My PSA lapping film has arrived from Matthew, so I'll start experimenting with it over the next few weeks.

Ed


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## Chems (24 Oct 2009)

wizer":9uuz7vzm said:


> Chems":9uuz7vzm said:
> 
> 
> > I'd challenge anyone to get a dulled blade super sharp quicker and easier than I/you can on the tormek. I don't bother with second bevels or anything as when done on the 2 wheels its more than sharp enough to take shavings.
> ...



People in glass houses, how much have you spent to date? I've spent £230 an won't need to spend another penny for any other jigs.


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## wizer (24 Oct 2009)

Chems":k1by4x6d said:


> how much have you spent to date?



£45


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## Chems (24 Oct 2009)

On all those (6?) waterstones/oil stones and dry grinders I know you have you must also have some extra bits for doing your gouges plus veritas blade holders and the like. Go an have a really good look an see what was spent on sharpening. Thats what I did to justify the Tormek cause £230 is a lot of money in my book, tallied up what I'd need for the various methods.


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## Doug B (25 Oct 2009)

wizer":3db3z4ft said:


> I can't get a certain ringing out of my ears recently. My doctor says it's tinnitus but it sounds more like bonimo or gorido or something or other :-k :duno:



Is that ringing getting any louder since the bash Tom :wink: :lol:


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## wizer (25 Oct 2009)

Chems, I don't own the 7 diamond stones any more. Hence my outlay for scary sharp is £45

If you want to include the grinder and the turning jig then we're up to about £150 all in. 

To get the Tormek with all the relevant jigs is much more than £230 unless you manage to pick one up dirt cheap on eBay which is true of any woodworking object.


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## Mr Ed (25 Oct 2009)

Although its the basis on which I bought mine about 6 years ago, I now don't think the Tormek is the solution to the whole spectrum of sharpening requirements. I could do what I use mine for with a £50 grinder and a Norton 3X stone.

I have never achieved an edge as good as with hand honing, regardless of the sharpening abrasive being used.

Ed


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## Dave S (25 Oct 2009)

EdSutton":1ib46iwj said:


> Although its the basis on which I bought mine about 6 years ago, I now don't think the Tormek is the solution to the whole spectrum of sharpening requirements. I could do what I use mine for with a £50 grinder and a Norton 3X stone.
> 
> I have never achieved an edge as good as with hand honing, regardless of the sharpening abrasive being used.
> 
> Ed


Although I have the much cheaper Scheppach 'copy', my experience is the same. I use it as a glorified grinder - all honing done using waterstones.

Dave


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## Chems (25 Oct 2009)

wizer":11dcq6wq said:


> Chems, I don't own the 7 diamond stones any more. Hence my outlay for scary sharp is £45
> 
> If you want to include the grinder and the turning jig then we're up to about £150 all in.
> 
> To get the Tormek with all the relevant jigs is much more than £230 unless you manage to pick one up dirt cheap on eBay which is true of any woodworking object.



You still have to count the money on the diamond stones as the path to get to your chosen sharpening choice. 

I bought my Tormek from Northampton Woodworking centre for £230 its a T3 model and came with the jig needed for plane irons and chisels the only type of edges tools I have.


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## wizer (25 Oct 2009)

Chems":33z1307l said:


> You still have to count the money on the diamond stones as the path to get to your chosen sharpening choice.



Why?? My point is that my initial outlay for scary sharp is £45. I have sold the diamonds and didn't loose a penny on them. So it's quite irrelevant.



Chems":33z1307l said:


> I bought my Tormek from Northampton Woodworking centre for £230 its a T3 model and came with the jig needed for plane irons and chisels the only type of edges tools I have.



My initial point on this still stands. You've spent £230 on something that cost me less than £100.

I'm sure you're happy with the Tormek. But my point is that it's vastly more expensive than my current preferred method.

Everyone has their preferences. This is mine.


Also, judging by yesterday's demo, I'd suggest Philly would take up your 'challenge'.


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## Philly (25 Oct 2009)

Tom
I think I might make a little Youtube video on this - I'm off to borrow a camcorder!
Cheers
Philly


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## Oryxdesign (25 Oct 2009)

Is it going to be a scary video.


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## Aled Dafis (25 Oct 2009)

Philly":23cjhx3i said:


> Tom
> I think I might make a little Youtube video on this - I'm off to borrow a camcorder!
> Cheers
> Philly



Great news, I was going to ask whether you could post a few pics of your low tech approach to sharpening as mentioned in Waka's bash. A video would be even better.

Thanks in advance.

Aled


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## Philly (25 Oct 2009)

Oryxdesign":36c1lwcm said:


> Is it going to be a scary video.


If you can see my face it will be scary...... :wink: :lol: 

Will do, Aled!

Cheers
Philly


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## wizer (25 Oct 2009)

Philly":g0gif6y5 said:


> Oryxdesign":g0gif6y5 said:
> 
> 
> > Is it going to be a scary video.
> ...



Agreed


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## matthewwh (25 Oct 2009)

The thing I don't understand is why the tormek breed of grinders are both slow and wet. Surely this employs two solutions to the same problem.

An industrial wet grinding wheel spins at about 90mph but beacuse it's water cooled, won't alter the heat treatment of a blade. A slow grinding wheel cuts fast because it is dry but also won't adversely effect the blade. 

As Philly says, the most sensible grinding option available for the home workshop at the moment is the Norton 3X wheel which is a curious blend of fine enough to work with yet aggressive enough not to cause heat build up even if used on a standard bench grinder.

Secondary bevels are not just about better results they also save a massive amount of steel. Doing all your sharpening on a grinder is fine as long as you don't mind going through plane irons and chisels at ten times the rate that everyone else does.


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## Chems (25 Oct 2009)

matthewwh":1zxuyngo said:


> An industrial wet grinding wheel spins at about 90mph but beacuse it's water cooled, won't alter the heat treatment of a blade. A slow grinding wheel cuts fast because it is dry but also won't adversely effect the blade.



I imagine with the spray it would be like sharpening in a monsoon tornado. I'm just imagining a Tormek with the wheel spinning at 90mph.


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## dedee (27 Oct 2009)

If I want a flat blade I like to use scary sharp but when a camber is required there is too much likelihood of the corners digging in and ripping the paper so I use oil and diamond stones.
Does the sticky backed paper reduce the tendency to tear?


Andy


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## wizer (27 Oct 2009)

It does tear. But I'd say if you only use the pull stroke the it wouldn't tear as much. I'll try it and let you know.


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## woodbloke (27 Oct 2009)

dedee":2wa18npx said:


> Does the sticky backed paper reduce the tendency to tear?
> 
> Andy


The papers will tear even on the pull stroke. A minute burr or a little bit of swarf on the bevel being honed (ie trapped 'twixt the paper and the bevel) will cause it to tear. All I do now is to make sure that there's no dust or crud on the paper before hand and I have a quick feel of the bevel to make sure it's clean - Rob


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## jimi43 (27 Oct 2009)

Interesting topic and one that has no definitive answer...simply because, as previously stated...we all have our favourite method.

That being said, I use and almost exact amateur equivalent and I have to say ALL of my planes and chisels are blinkin' lethal. 

My kit is a piece of marble (the fabricated stuff) from a kitchen top...which is really flat...Onto this I use 3M Micro Mesh with a touch of Camelia oil...which I got to protect the metal of my tools, both of these from eBay cheap.

The 3M Micro Mesh sheets are not cheap but they are superb value.

I used very thin double-sided tape to affix the sheets to the marble. 

These methods do require elbow grease but the results are so good and at the end of the day...I find the whole process very therapeutic...

I don't know if it is my imagination but I think you really notice the difference between good steel and rubbish! If not simply by the time it takes to get good steel to a perfect edge!

I look forward to the comments of other members...here is where we learn and try other things!

Jim


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## devonwoody (27 Oct 2009)

Jim, dont drop a chisel in the direction of your foot then. :wink:


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## jimi43 (27 Oct 2009)

devonwoody":zopvn4lc said:


> Jim, dont drop a chisel in the direction of your foot then. :wink:



ALWAYS wear steel toecaps mate....ALWAYS....and the times I have needed to!

Jim


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## matthewwh (27 Oct 2009)

dedee":38n94s06 said:


> Does the sticky backed paper reduce the tendency to tear?
> Andy



No, but the higher you go in the grit sizes the less prone to tearing they become due to the progressively higher thickness of abrasive particles. 40 micron very rarely tears and I have never torn 60 or 100 micron. 

If you are careful to work down through the grits using pull strokes, tearing becomes less and less of an issue as you develop a sense of how little pressure is needed to make them work. 

Coming from waterstones as I did, there was a natural tendancy to push quite hard on the coarser grits and then use less pressure on the finer grits. It took a while to get over, but I now use about the same pressure that I had used on a 6000 grit waterstone on the coarsest lapping film and get lighter from there. 

By the time you get down to 5 micron and below you are only replacing a microscopically fine scratch pattern so the weight of the blade is more than adequate, it really is just a matter of kissing the surface.

As long as you seperate developing the facets of a cambered iron on the coarser grades and refining the surface on the finer ones you won't have a problem with tearing.


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## Benchwayze (1 Nov 2009)

jimi43":25xureqe said:


> devonwoody":25xureqe said:
> 
> 
> > Jim, dont drop a chisel in the direction of your foot then. :wink:
> ...



Wise, wise indeed. Having seen photographs of woodworkers wearing open toe sandals, ('Murrica, where else?) I wonder if a dropped, 2" scary-sharp Chisel would sever a toe? I reckon it would have a good go.

Can't say as I want to test it though; except maybe on a carrot! . :wink: 

John


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## wizer (1 Nov 2009)

Benchwayze":gs3eketn said:


> ('Murrica, where else?)



Charlesworth, who else?


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## Mattty (1 Nov 2009)

wizer":3hhb7s90 said:


> Benchwayze":3hhb7s90 said:
> 
> 
> > ('Murrica, where else?)
> ...



Joseph wore Dewalt safety boots i heard..


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## wizer (1 Nov 2009)

yebbut Jesus was pimping the snickers brand.


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## matthewwh (1 Nov 2009)

What like this?


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