# Looking to take up wood turning.



## =Adam= (9 Jan 2012)

Hi everyone!!

This is my first post on the site so go easy on me  

I am very interested in starting wood turning and would like some information as to what is the best way to start up (what equipment to get etc)

I have seen some lathes on ebay starting at around the £140 mark and going upwards to over £500, now I don't know anything about wood turning but I am assuming that these lathes for £140 aren't that good (or are they?). The same goes for a set of chisels, I have seen some on ebay for £20 for a set of 6, now I do know a bit about wood working and I know that £20 chisels will not be decent and that I will have to pay £50 upwards for a set, is this the same for turning or am I looking at even more than £50 for a basic set?

I have also heard that you need a chuck (along with the lathe), what is the purpose of a chuck and would it make a big difference if I didn't bother with one to begin with?

Apart from the items that I have mentioned is there anything else that I would need to start turning? Space isn't really an issue for me as my dad has a joinery shop so I can keep the lathe there and they also have all of the necessary extraction equipment which is a bit of a bonus!

Thanks for looking and I look forward to reading your replies!!


----------



## theartfulbodger (9 Jan 2012)

great-mag-for-newbies-t56737.html

http://www.getwoodworking.com/news/article.asp?a=8940

I had a read through in the newsagents and it seemed a mine of info


----------



## promhandicam (9 Jan 2012)

:shock: My sincere commiserations. :wink:


----------



## bugbear (9 Jan 2012)

=Adam=":176imf8g said:


> Hi everyone!!
> 
> This is my first post on the site so go easy on me
> 
> I am very interested in starting wood turning and would like some information as to what is the best way to start up (what equipment to get etc)



If there's a local woodturning club (they're fairly common), I'm sure the members would be happy to advise, demonstrate, let you have a go etc.

The local library may be a good first start for finding a club.

BugBear


----------



## =Adam= (9 Jan 2012)

I never even thought of a local wood turning club!

I am sure there is one locally as I have heard some customers talking about it when they come and pick up some off cuts from the work shop.

Thanks for the links, I will have a look at them as soon as I have a bit more spare time!


----------



## nev (9 Jan 2012)

hi adam
and welcome. 
first thing you should get is this book - 'woodturning, a foundation course' by kieth rowley.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Woodturning-Fou ... 032&sr=8-1
i think its safe to say most of the guys (and girls) on the forum would say it is worth its weight in wood. it has simple straightforward advice and instruction on what you need, and how to use it, and a few projects to get you going also.

i suppose the minimum you will need is ...
a lathe :shock: - 
a method of fixing wood to lathe
some gouges (chisels)
a sharpening device
safety gear

I've only been turning for about a year so my knowledge and experience are limited so everyone feel free to correct me, but as with all tools, buy the best you can afford. 
NEVER buy cheap tools or cheap toilet paper, at some point you'll end up in the .... :shock: 
if you're on a limited budget id go for a used better lathe rather than a new cheaper one. most of the usual suspects, record power, axminster, jet, etc are fairly robust items so buying used is not too risky. if youre lucky you may find a 'retirement' or 'i didnt really get in to it 'bundle' on the likes of ebay that has everything you need to start ... like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Record-woodtu ... 3a6eeb2208
if not ...
lathes - record power, axminster, jet, magma titan :shock: 

a method of fixing wood to lathe - a two/four prong drive and a 4" faceplate will get you going. a scroll chuck and jaws would be nice but will cost anywhere between 75 and 200 quid.

some gouges (chisels) - robert sorby, ashley isles, crown, henry taylor, reord power and axminster. 

a sharpening device - minimum of a bench grinder with approprite wheel and a homemade sharpening jig for holding the tool at the correct angle to be sharpened. something like this http://www.recordpower.co.uk/index.php? ... %20GRINDER which happens to come with a suitable 'white' wheel, and a homemade jig as in the rowley book. or a tormek or sorby proedge type thing if you are rich!

safety gear - minimum of goggles and a decent respirator/ dustmask. apart from the usual dust, a lot of the 'pretty' woods can be toxic if ingested. a small coaster to put over the top of of cup of tea is also adviseable  

wow! thats my longest post ever i think. sorry to waffle but i dont think theres a short answer  
there is a woodturning/crafts weekend soon, 21st jan, at the botanical gardens just down the road from you http://www.gardenofwales.org.uk/whats-on/events/
most of what ive rambled on about is in keith rowleys book, it really is worth the investment. i still go back and refer to mine every now and and then when i have a senior moment.
hope thats of some help


----------



## =Adam= (9 Jan 2012)

Also does anyone know of any large retailers that stock that magazine? Tesco, ASDA, WH Smith?

I think I will buy it and doa bit of background reading


----------



## =Adam= (9 Jan 2012)

nev":eevx7ljy said:


> hi adam
> and welcome.
> first thing you should get is this book - 'woodturning, a foundation course' by kieth rowley.
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Woodturning-Fou ... 032&sr=8-1
> ...




Wow that is a very informative post! Thanks for the advice!

I think the craft fair will be definitely worth going to just to get a feel for what it is all about!

With regards to the safety equipment and the sharpening tools, they are all available to me in the workshop, there is a grinder along with numerous sharpening stones plus headphones and dust masks galore! That should save me a bit of money which is quite nice!

Do you have a link to the sort of 4" drive that you are on about so that I can have some sort of idea what I would be looking for. Also is it safe to say that the chucks and face plates are universal or are they model specific?

Thanks for the help once again!

Edit:

Can I also ask if you think that the £250 buy it now price that they have put on that kit is a fair value? It looks like it includes everything that I would need to start


----------



## boysie39 (9 Jan 2012)

Hi Adam, welcome to the forum .Nev has given you all the right advise and the lathe on the Bay is an excellent choice ,it seems to have every thing you would need.


----------



## Paul Hannaby (9 Jan 2012)

Hi Adam,
The chucks and faceplates are threaded and there are a number of different thread sizes used on different lathes so they aren't all interchangeable. Also, most lathes have a morse taper hole in the spindle and tailstock for drive centres, live centres, jacobs chucks etc. These also come in different sizes so you need to make sure you get the right size for your lathe. Most lathes use either 1 or 2 morse taper (sometimes written as MT1 or MT2) but some larger models use MT3 or possibly even larger.

If you are looking for a club, try the AWGB website at http://www.woodturners.co.uk, they have a list of all affilitated clubs.


----------



## nev (9 Jan 2012)

=Adam=":3uwa0kyr said:


> Do you have a link to the sort of 4" drive that you are on about so that I can have some sort of idea what I would be looking for. Also is it safe to say that the chucks and face plates are universal or are they model specific?
> 
> Thanks for the help once again!
> 
> ...



i didnt see the buy it now price, but yes i think i'd be happy to pay that. its a decent starter lathe, the chuck and gouges would probably set you back at least 150 if you were to buy them new and all those little 10 quid bits soon add up, so a fair price i would say, and it looks to be looked after. (and theres a 4" faceplate is at the top right of the pegboard) 

theres one here http://www.recordpower.co.uk/index.php? ... ct&seq=342

as far as chucks and fittings go, unfortunately there are lots of variants (different size threads) so you need to get the right one to match your lathe. just search the forum for 'which chuck', theres plenty of reading there!

the 'drive' bit of the lathe is a (hollow*) threaded shaft to which the chucks and faceplates attach so you need a matching thread. in records case it is 3/4 x 16 (3/4" dia with 16TPI - threads per inch)
*the hollow bit is the other (primary?) way of fixing the work to the lathe by means of a morse taper (MT) again record is a 1MT. so your 1MT prong drive is a push fit into the 'drive' shaft, this then pokes into the centre of the wood to be turned. there is also a similar setup in the tailstock for the other end of the wood.

theres a guide here http://www.recordpower.co.uk/index.php? ... sef=Lathes

please note - i am only pointing out the record power stuff cos its what ive got and what i know. there are other manufacturers out there, some better and some far worse.
hth


----------



## knappers (9 Jan 2012)

Deleted.


----------



## Jonzjob (9 Jan 2012)

I have had my Record CL1 for about 15 years now and I would recomend it to anyone starting out. I have done an upgrade to mine by fitting a 3ø motor with variable speed, but that was after I had been using it for about 13 of those years. It's a good lathe and big enough to do up to 14" bowls and down to 1/12th scale dolls house plates, bowls and candle sticks :mrgreen: 

I think that the kit on E-bay would be exactly what you need. As has been said, it's all there and it isn't rubbish!

Good luck and welcome to the slippery slope!!


----------



## Tinbasher (9 Jan 2012)

Apart from the fact that you are now DOOMED! Good luck


----------



## Aled Dafis (9 Jan 2012)

That ebay auction would be a bargain at £250, but I'd be willing to go to £350ish, it's a cracking beginners setup. 

You may be intrested to learn that there are evening classes at Coleg Sir Gar in Llanelli about four nights a week, that's where I started off. The tutor, Johno DeFillipo (now that's a traditional llanelli name if ever i heard one) is a top man, he'll give you loads of support whilst letting you carry on with your own projects at your own pace. It's probably the wrong time of year to start on the course as they run Sept. to July, but you've nothing to loose in phoning him to see if he has any spare places. Johno may actually be demonstrating for the college (publicity stunt) at the wood show in the Botanic Gardens, he usually does at the Timberman show in Carmarthen.

Cheers
Aled


----------



## jumps (9 Jan 2012)

=Adam=":1s4tzqj9 said:


> Edit:
> 
> Can I also ask if you think that the £250 buy it now price that they have put on that kit is a fair value? It looks like it includes everything that I would need to start



IMO the only reason that this hasn't gone to anyone for £250 yet is the location (and possibly the lack of an up front BIN price) If collection works for you I would buy it in a moment. The extras and odds and ends all add up quickly and looking at those listed this represents a pretty balanced aquisition trail. I suspect he hasn't got it up with a reserve of much less so if you make a decision I wouldn't wait.

Good luck


----------



## nev (9 Jan 2012)

lets hope the person selling it doesnt read this thread :wink:


----------



## =Adam= (12 Jan 2012)

Aled - Thanks for the reply! I didn't spot this a few days ago when I posted. I am going to go to the show next weekend and I will keep an eye out for the college stand as it may be worth a go!

I have also spotted that someone who has posted has said that the lathe isn't a variable speed one, is this much of a problem? I don't want to spend that much money on something that would not be suitable.

Also it was mentioned that it is possible to do a motor upgrade so that it can become variable, can I have some more details on this please and the associated costs.


Thanks for the info guys!


----------



## nev (12 Jan 2012)

=Adam=":4dzj9q6r said:


> I have also spotted that someone who has posted has said that the lathe isn't a variable speed one, is this much of a problem? I don't want to spend that much money on something that would not be suitable.
> 
> Also it was mentioned that it is possible to do a motor upgrade so that it can become variable, can I have some more details on this please and the associated costs.



i believe the CL1 is a 3 speed model, but to change speeds it is a manual (5 second) operation (move belt to different pulley) as opposed to an electronically variable speed. for twenty quid you can upgrade to a 4 speed manual http://www.recordpower.co.uk/index.php? ... ct&seq=356
the electronic variable kit is 500 quid! and not available for the cl1. 
http://www.recordpower.co.uk/index.php? ... 20Upgrades

i would imagine it will take a while before you outgrow the cl1 or similar at which time you may want more than a vs kit for your upgrade.(especially for £500)


----------



## =Adam= (12 Jan 2012)

How do you switch speed manually? Is there a lever?

I am going to see that lathe tomorrow and will hopefully be coming home with it 

I know the lathe is advertised as a swivelling headstock, does that mean that I can move it off centre to gain more access for bowl turning? Or is that wishful thinking on my part?


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.669249,-4.055646


----------



## nev (12 Jan 2012)

you stop motor, open lid, slacken motor (lever) move belt to smaller/ larger pulley, tighten motor (lever) replace lid, switch on.
i could have done it 3 times in the time its taken me to type that!
yep. swivelling headstock allows you to bring the workpiece toward you so you can get into the bowl without having to climb over the bed to get the tool at the correct angle.


----------



## Jonzjob (12 Jan 2012)

Nev, from what I have read about the newer CL1 they are 4 speed, but still change the belt on the pullies. Mine is a 3 speed and I have fitted a 3ø motor and invertor which gives me variable speed, but as I said earlier, after a dozen years of the fixed 3 speed. It is perfectly adaquet, but even better now!

Occasionally I still change the belt on the pullies if I need a very low speed and more torque.

Adam, even if the headstock bearings are shot, which is very unlikely, it is still a VERY good bargain at that price. I changed the head stock bearings in mine earlier this year because they had taken some stick in the 12 years I've had it. The removal is dead easy, the bearings are stock items that cost me less than 20€ and all is sweetly running like new again.

Mine is a fairly early blue painted model. This one you are looking at is a later green model. as far as I know they are identical apart from the colour and the extra speed. 

Mine is mounted on a 4 X 2" 'A' frame with a 2 X 6" horizontal beam. Before I cross braced it with tansioned catenery wires and 4 'L' plates to bolt it to my workshop floor I used to wander around the workshop to keep up with it if I had an unballanced piece in it. Now it as solid as a rock. It still vibrates with an unballanced load but what wouldn't?

Go for it. It's a bargain. You even get a couple of bowl blanks thrown in, but if I were you I would start to walk and do some spindle work first??


----------



## =Adam= (12 Jan 2012)

Thanks for the info everyone, you are a very helpful bunch 

The machine is going to be living in my girlfriends house for a while as her dad has a workshop and has offered to let me use his work bench until I can set up a permanent space in my garage at home.

I am not sure if I have already mentioned but the timber side of this hobby should be at no cost to me as my dad owns a joinery business and I will be making use of their off cuts which are mainly oak, ash, sapele, iroko and red wood (however they do use some different woods from time to time). I first want to just get used to using the tools so will not be looking to turn anything for aesthetic reasons.

I spoke to the seller on the phone tonight and he seemed to be a very genuine and polite person and it seems as though the machine has had very little use which is a bit of a bonus 

I cant wait to have a go now


----------



## marcros (13 Jan 2012)

I know nothing about turning Adam, but what I have picked up from the forum is to learn tool sharpening as a priority because using sharp tools is a must. It would be well worth looking through the threads on here (there are many) for views on different sharpening systems. It sounds like you could be surrounded by a few people at home that may be able to give you some lessons/pointers.


----------



## Jonzjob (13 Jan 2012)

Congrats Adam. May be a bit early but what the hell?

Iroko, it may well be a good idea to use a good dust mask when turning it. It plays hell with me and unless tere is no alternative I don't turn it. 

There's a thread at the top in 'Stickies' that gives loads of gen on different woods, but I'm sure that you Dad will be able to advise you..

Welcome to the slippery slope!


----------



## =Adam= (14 Jan 2012)

Just reporting to say that I have purchased the kit and got it all for a bargain of £200 including all of the tools and 13 wood turning magazines to help give me a bit of an idea of what to do when I start turning!

The machine was immaculate with hardly any marks on it and it runs like a dream!

I got back from picking it up at 11pm so haven't had a chance to set it up yet but I will get cracking on that tomorrow with a bit of luck!

I think my project next weekend will be to build a nice sturdy bench to mount it on! I can't wait to get going on this now 


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.669129,-4.055957


----------



## Aled Dafis (14 Jan 2012)

Congratulations and welcome to the slope!! You got a real bargain!!!


----------



## Aled Dafis (14 Jan 2012)

Adam, regarding your question about variable speed drives, these people do a dedicated kit for your lathe for £309

http://www.haydockconverters.co.uk/variablespeeddrives.htm

But if you're at all mechanically/electrically minded, or know somebody who is, you could buy the bits (single to 3 phase inverter, 3 phase dual voltage motor and a couple of switches) for a little over £200 from ebay, and wire it up yourself, I did it years ago on an el cheapo Sealy lathe. I now have a haydock converters kit on my Woodfast lathe which was on it when I bought the machine which gives exactly the same result as my home assembled effort.

Cheers
Aled


----------



## Tazmaniandevil (14 Jan 2012)

For what it is worth now, seeing everyone has given all the advice I could. I started turning about a year ago (before I found this forum) and made the mistake of buying one of the cheap chisel sets you see on the bay of evil. All I can say is, they're that cheap for a reason. I would go as far as to say dangerous in the wrong hands. (i.e. mine)
I actually managed to snap the roughing gouge because of my poor technique. Yes, my fault completely, but I would imagine the majority of folks buying these tools will be beginners to the sport.
The Keith Rowley book is a godsend. Practice, practice, practice. Collect as much free wood as you can store, even if it's as green as cabbage. Always wear protection, at the very least a face shield and disposable mask. Watch youtube videos, not just for technique, but also to see the best way to approach your projects. 
I as yet don't have a "modern" chuck. I have had some fun finding inventive ways to hold work while I attack it with the tools. Don't be put off certain projects because you don't have a chuck. Work out another way to hold the piece. After all - the original turners didn't have the luxury of the equipment we can now get our hands on.

Most of all have fun.


----------



## Blister (14 Jan 2012)

=Adam=":2d9fssg3 said:


> Just reporting to say that I have purchased the kit and got it all for a bargain of £200 including all of the tools and 13 wood turning magazines to help give me a bit of an idea of what to do when I start turning!
> 
> The machine was immaculate with hardly any marks on it and it runs like a dream!
> 
> ...



Nice kit 

BUT you had better ask the seller to remove it from ebay , last time I looked the auction was still live :?


----------



## boysie39 (14 Jan 2012)

Congrats Adam, sounds like a really great buy.

Now you can get stuck in enjoy a reallt fantastic pastime.


----------



## nev (14 Jan 2012)

bargain! welcome to the club.
if you find you want some pointers around the basics at any time, I am not too far away from you (near leekes @ cross hands)
and youre welcome to come round and have a go. just pm me.


----------



## =Adam= (15 Jan 2012)

Thanks for the warm welcome guys!

Nev! Thanks for the offer, I'm sure you will be getting some pm's in the coming months haha! Are you going to that show in the botanical gardens?

Also instead of starting a new thread (im lazy like that) I though I would ask a question about sharpening.

I have seen that it is recomended that I get a white stone, ate these the aluminium oxide wheels? And if so what grit is best for them?

Also I can have acess to a bench grinder, but it is a normal b&q job, I assume that this would be fine to use (providing I swap to a white wheel) or am I going to have issues because of lower power/torque?

One more thing.... Do the chisels need 'honing' on a wet/oil/diamond stone once sharpened on a wheel? And if so, how do I get the right angle on circular profiles without ruining the grind?

Sorry for asking, I am just full of questions 


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.669187,-4.056037


----------



## Jonzjob (15 Jan 2012)

Questions? 

Adam, the only stupid questions are the ones that you don't ask, so ask away mate.

The only ones that I hone are mt skew chisels. All of the rest are sed straight off the white wheel. I have no recollection of what grit it is though. A senior memory!

I have a sharpening rig after doing it by eye for a lot of years and the difference is worth it. It's a Wolverine One way with the fingernail grind jig too. Not cheap, but for me worth it. It's fitted to a second hand B&D grinder I got from a govt surplus place. It's as good as I need and after switching it off yer tea could get cold waiting for it to stop :mrgreen: 

The power shoud be OK because all you need is a light touch on the wheel.


----------



## nev (15 Jan 2012)

Thanks for the warm welcome guys!

Nev! Thanks for the offer, I'm sure you will be getting some pm's in the coming months haha! Are you going to that show in the botanical gardens?
i shall be popping along, not sure what day yet.
Also instead of starting a new thread (im lazy like that) I though I would ask a question about sharpening.

I have seen that it is recomended that I get a white stone, ate these the aluminium oxide wheels? And if so what grit is best for them?
all you need to know here... http://www.peterchild.co.uk/grind/grindinfo.htm
Also I can have acess to a bench grinder, but it is a normal b&q job, I assume that this would be fine to use (providing I swap to a white wheel) or am I going to have issues because of lower power/torque?
generally speaking the slower the better.
One more thing.... Do the chisels need 'honing' on a wet/oil/diamond stone once sharpened on a wheel? And if so, how do I get the right angle on circular profiles without ruining the grind?
conflicting views. see here ... sharpening-tools-using-a-grinder-t55164.html?hilit=sharpening
Sorry for asking, I am just full of questions 
thats what the forum is for


----------



## =Adam= (15 Jan 2012)

This is the grinder that I can use:

http://m.diy.com/mt/www.diy.com/nav/fix ... escription

It is rated as 150watt which may be a bit under powered :-/ but then it won't do much damage if I get it wrong  

Has anyone used the above grinder before?


----------



## nev (15 Jan 2012)

if youre quick http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Woodturning-F ... 3a6eec6448


----------



## Aled Dafis (15 Jan 2012)

That's a very similar grinder to the one I started off with nearly 10 years ago, and still use for grinding bench chisels. I actually used it for a couple of years with the standard grey wheels. White wheels are better, but I went for the ruby wheels when I upgraded, although I'm not sure if they're really worth the extra over white wheels (about £12 vs about £20+). I'd go for around 80 grit for general sharpening.

Don't bother with honing, as at the speed the wood passes a woodturning chisel, your honed edge will only last seconds, as opposed to 15 minutes plus say for a hand plane or chisel.

A DIY grinding jig is definitely the way forward, I struggled for years with grinding by hand before making a jig, and the difference was amazing!

Keep asking the questions!!

Cheers
Aled


----------



## =Adam= (15 Jan 2012)

To throw a spanner in the works.... I spotted a wet grinder in wicks earlier for £30, not sure if it is any good but for anyone interested then have a look on their website, it looked pretty decent in the shop 

I will e making a jig, that is definite!


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=51.660628,-4.036373


----------

