# Mahogany Longcase - WIP



## Dodge (27 Feb 2013)

Ok so I havn't posted one for a while so here we go.

I made a clock some years ago for a client and have been asked to make a similar one for a close friends parents as an anniversay gift later in the year. I am planning on using it as a show piece at a couple of upcoming events before delivery so will have it for a while once completed.

I have had a number of large boards in my store for some time and have decided to utilise these and brought them across from my store ready for use












I decided to start today by turning the spindles for mounting on the sides of the trunk of the case 






and once turned the spindles were cut down the centre giving the two required halves, a straight batten was glued to the square ends of the turning to enable a straight cut to be achied against the fence on the table saw
















With the splits turned, I then turned the pair of columns which will be mounted on either side of the head of the clock











With the pair turned, as these will mount on the corner a quarter needed removing and this was very carefully done on the table saw, unfortunately this procedure requires the removal of the riving knife and crown guard so extreme caution is required when cutting, it would have been alot easier to remove the waste on the spindle moulder but I wanted to keep the section removed to use on the back of the head of the clock.











Will get on with it again tomorrow, but am planning on completing this over a longer period between other jobs etc so will update as work progresses - will be on it for the next few days at least.


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## Dodge (27 Feb 2013)

Basically the clock will be very similar to this one, this was made in cherry with carved thistle detail as it was for a Scottish couple - these photos show the clock case unfinished but will give you an idea of how the finished mahogany clock will look


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## marcros (27 Feb 2013)

dodge,

forgive me i am not a turner, and this is comparing your half columns with some of Norms...

is there any reason why you turned it then took the risk of cutting in half, compared with Norm doing something similar, but double taping 2 pieces together, then turning it and splitting? I hate cutting finished items- slicing a lid of a box still fills me with dread!

mark


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## Dodge (27 Feb 2013)

Cutting the spindle once turned is straight forward and I have never had problems doing it - I have never tried taping bits together but with the spindle being quite thin is places can only think it would induce more vibration or chance of it breaking.

As long as you leave a small square section at the each end of the spindle turned then you can simply stick a batton onto the waste with a drop of mitre glue which give a good straight edge to run against the fence - Works for me Mark


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## marcros (27 Feb 2013)

should i ever attempt anything similar, i will try it your way first then!


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## Paul Chapman (27 Feb 2013)

Great stuff, Roger. Look forward to seeing this one develop.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Harbo (27 Feb 2013)

Lovely work again.

Rod


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## mailee (28 Feb 2013)

Very nice work Rog. I have used your system for cutting turnings in half a couple of times, I think it would be easier this way rather than trying to turn two sections taped together. I have to ask though how on earth did you cut the quarter round out using the table saw? that must have been a tight cheeks moment. :lol: Also how was the thistle carved on the first clock, or was it a commercially made one? looking forward to the rest of the build.


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## Dodge (28 Feb 2013)

Hi Alan, thanks 

The thistles were hand carved.

The quarters are cut having first removed the riving knife and crown guard :shock: and then I made a sacrificial cradle which both supports the work as you cut it and enables hands to be kept well away from the unguarded blade.

Removing the riving knife isn't a problem in this instance as you are not cutting completely through the timber and there is negligible chance of binding. With the saw set to the correct height, and fence set at correct distance quite straightforward.

Just make sure the quarter being removed falls to the opposite side of the fence to prevent it getting damaged after the second cut has been made. 

Before I hear you all cry "no crown guard, and no riving knife" they were immediately re-instated as they should be!


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## jhwbigley (28 Feb 2013)

marcros":136q3i0l said:


> dodge,
> 
> forgive me i am not a turner, and this is comparing your half columns with some of Norms...
> 
> ...



I'm sure I've seen a Norm where he has used the paper joint method for split turnings. Start with to halves and glue them together, but with paper between. Works well.

Looking good Dodge, been itching to make something out of mahogany myself.

JH


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## AndyT (28 Feb 2013)

Looking wonderful as ever!

For something with as many components as this, what do you start with as a design?
- A full-sized drawing?
- Something in Sketchup?
- A rod or two?


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## Dodge (28 Feb 2013)

Andy, I have made a few to a similar design over the last few years and have drawings with basic dimensions which I modify for each case, alot of it is being done from memory to be honest.

Anyway today I have cracked on with the sides of the head and trunk sections starting with the split turnings and their mounting section, initially a couple of lengths of timber were machined to 40mm square in section before being cut down lengthwise at 45 degrees and the cut surface planed smooth. The split turns then had their ends cut off at 45 degrees on the mitre saw






A piece of the 45 degree sections was also cut to form the corresponding face for the split turn again using the Mitre saw, by cutting the opposite parts from the same saw blade setting you know that an accurate fit will be achieved.






The sections were re-glued and the excess planed off leaving the ends of the section just under the 40mm square section from which i originally started






The split turn sections were then complete, other than having the turnery glued into place but ready to prepare the rest of the side onto which they will fit in due course






Frames were them made with mortice and tenon joints at the corners 











Before panels were machined with a traditional fielding






After some fine tuning the side panels were then completed, not yet glued together but ready for further attention tomorrow.
















Hope you approve so far!


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## Paul Chapman (28 Feb 2013)

Blimey, you don't hang about, Roger :shock: :lol: Looking good.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## MickCheese (28 Feb 2013)

As always I'm astonished how quickly you seem work. I suppose that's the way it has to be when 'time is money'.  

Looking fantastic as usual. 

Enjoying the WIP. 

Mick


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## Mattty (28 Feb 2013)

Very interesting Job, thanks for posting it.


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## stevenw1963 (28 Feb 2013)

Really enjoying this WIP - one day I want to have a go at one of these.


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## wallace (28 Feb 2013)

I like the spindle work roger, very crisp and symmetrical


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## No skills (28 Feb 2013)

Been hoping somebody would do a build like this  I do like these.


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## keithkarl2007 (28 Feb 2013)

Dang, that is some great work right there. Can't wait to see the finished piece.


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## Spindle (1 Mar 2013)

Hi Roger

Great WIP - I'm watching this with interest as my next large project is destined to be a longcase clock, (going to go the whole hog and make the movement too).

Regards Mick


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## Dodge (1 Mar 2013)

Well I have been beavering away again today and initially started by preparing the basic components for the framework of the base of the clock case.







As you can see from the photo it was a lovely bright sunny morning and the temptation to shut up shop and go for a walk was very tempting but I did resist and proceeded to mortice and tenon the components






Before taking the parts to the router table and running in the grooves ready to accept the panels and back






The panels were then machined in a similar manner to that earlier describes and inserted into the frames to form the base section






Next I looked to get the back of the trunk of the clock made, straight forward mortice and tenon construction again with solid fielded panels as the back will be seen behind the pendulum and weights behind the glass in the case door.






and the edges of it were rebated to form a tongue






to fit into a groove routed into the inside edges of the trunk sides






The basic trunk will now stand on its own, none of the joints in any of the components have been glued yet as various components will reguire inlaying prior to it being glued up.






I stood the components together, just sitting them on some offcut ply to give you an idea of proportions before I left, obviously it looks rather strange at the moment as having no joining mouldings, or front in the trunk and the head is merely the sides but I think you will get an idea of how it will look once completed.






It may look as though it is likely to be finished in a few more days but there is a huge amount more to do and I will update again next week as I have just been told by SWMBO that i'm not working tomorrow - what she doesnt know is I wasn't planning to though as taking my lad rough shooting - far more fun than trogging around the shops in Norwich!!!!


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## andersonec (3 Mar 2013)

Do you have a drawing or is this coming out of your head as you progress?

Andy


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## Dodge (3 Mar 2013)

andersonec":31o6p0w9 said:


> Do you have a drawing or is this coming out of your head as you progress?
> 
> Andy



Andy, I have made a few clocks similar to this one over the years and have drawings with basic dimensions which I modify for each case, alot of it is being done from memory though.


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## riclepp (7 Mar 2013)

Hi Roger,

Top work as usual, looking forward to seeing the finished item


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## Dodge (7 Mar 2013)

Will be updating with a few more photos later!


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## Dodge (7 Mar 2013)

Right over the last couple of days have got a bit more done to the case in between customer visits etc.

The base section of the case was glued up






Before turning my attention to the trunk, the front frame with the side turnings as well as the sides and back were glued up











And once dry the rear section was fixed to the sides






before fixing the front frame to the rest of the trunk carcase











One the cramps were removed from the trunk, and after fitting a couple of cleats to the inside of the base of the clock case the two were fixed together and the moulding sections already made up were glued into place marrying the two sections together











The mouldings for the top and bottom of the trunk were made up in three sections, these off-cuts show the end sections






The pics below show the progress today with the head section and how the case is now looking


























And when I left today I actually felt I was starting to get somewhere!






Still got to finish the head, get the doors made, the base plynth added and obviously the movement mountings but they can wait for tomorrow!!


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## riclepp (7 Mar 2013)

Looking good Roger, very impressive


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## Dodge (7 Mar 2013)

One thing I ought to comment on is you may have noticed the difference in timber colour between the thicker moulding sections and the carcase framing and panels. The carcase is all Brazilian Mahogany but the thicker boards I have used are actually Kerruing which whilst initially lighter will take a richer stain in due course giving a slight contrast which will really make the split turning and moulding sections stand out from the case when finally polished.


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## Mattty (7 Mar 2013)

Very nice indeed. Keep the updates coming.


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## Gerard Scanlan (8 Mar 2013)

Apart from being another inspiring WIP I liked the coments about the eventual colour the timber will end up. I have been caught out a number of times by timber changing colour after I have made a piece. I never expected american poplar (tulip) to end up darker than teak in a piece I made but it did. Obviously you have learned this from experience but is there a resource (book or internet) for the comparative colours/lightness/darkness of timber a year or so after it has been finished?


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## devonwoody (8 Mar 2013)

Good to see a WIP on a long clock, always wanted to do one of them but one I missed ever attempting.

Your project and commission is looking superb, timber is nice and clean as well.

Thanks for posting and all those tips.


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## stevenw1963 (8 Mar 2013)

This looks like it is going to be a cracking looking clock.
Enjoying this WIP very much, thanks a lot.


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## mailee (8 Mar 2013)

That is looking very nice Rog. You are certainly whipping along with this one. What finish will it have?


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## Dodge (8 Mar 2013)

mailee":3hcf74re said:


> That is looking very nice Rog. You are certainly whipping along with this one. What finish will it have?



Not 100% sure yet Allan, will do some samples to see what looks best once I get to that stage.

There wont be any updates on this project for a short time as I am committed on other projects all next week.


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## CHJ (8 Mar 2013)

I know we have not got to the 'inner workings' stage yet and that it's a bit of an aside from the wood interest but what's your experience with movement suppliers and the quality, can it be expected to get a lifetimes use out of the modern offerings that don't require a re-mortgage to purchase.


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## No skills (8 Mar 2013)

How do you find working with Keruing? I have limited experience with hardwoods - mostly some 'mahogany' alike's and a bit of beech, I do have a fair bit of re-claimed keruing thats set aside for my work bench build. To me it seems bloody hard and seems to tear out fairly easily when hand planing - any tips? (other than sharpen the plane and stop moaning  ).

The clocks coming on great, please keep the pictures coming.

8)


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## carlb40 (8 Mar 2013)

No skills":414k3uks said:


> How do you find working with Keruing? I have limited experience with hardwoods - mostly some 'mahogany' alike's and a bit of beech, I do have a fair bit of re-claimed keruing thats set aside for my work bench build. To me it seems bloody hard and seems to tear out fairly easily when hand planing - any tips?  (other than sharpen the plane and stop moaning  ).
> 
> The clocks coming on great, please keep the pictures coming.
> 
> 8)



Try one of these with a bed angle of 55 degrees ish 

http://www.larryciesla.com/handplane.html


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## carlb40 (8 Mar 2013)

Great looking clock there, might try one on a smaller scale one day.


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## Dodge (8 Mar 2013)

CHJ":a05jold0 said:


> I know we have not got to the 'inner workings' stage yet and that it's a bit of an aside from the wood interest but what's your experience with movement suppliers and the quality, can it be expected to get a lifetimes use out of the modern offerings that don't require a re-mortgage to purchase.



Chas,

Modern movements are not made like they used to be - entry level Hermle 451's will only give a 10>15 year life - A longcase I made in 1980 has just had its third movement fitted, with that said though the owner is a bit heavy handed with it. 

Personally I like the Kieninger movements which are better made and last longer, the HS is a copy of the traditional English movement with a single bell strike - We have one in a longcase in our lounge that I made in 92 and it has never missed a beat and is still keeping perfect time - but you get what you pay for.

I get my movements from Martin Dunn (The Clock Gallery) who has always looked after me very well - A true gent

As for the keruing, I appreciate the grain can be a paid but a good sharp plane or cabinet scraper will easily deal with it!


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## mailee (8 Mar 2013)

I can also vouch for Martin Dunn, I have used him in the past for the few clocks I have made. (he gave me good advice as a novice clock builder) It is only a 15 minute run to his place from here which was handy. 
No updates for a while on the build! At your rate of work that will mean about four hours then. :lol:


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## CHJ (8 Mar 2013)

Thanks for the names Roger, I have a project to make a wall clock using some Oak that was supplied by my great grandfather to my father in the 1930's that has been awaiting my attention. 
If I get my act together I would like to think that any movement that went in it would last the next generation out.


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## Dodge (26 Mar 2013)

Well after a break of a couple of weeks whilst undertaking training and other small projects have today been able to get back to the clock for a day or two before the Easter break.

Started by getting the plynth for the base of the trunk machined and duly fitted 







And then turned my attention to the head section initially getting the side panels already made glued up






Once in the cramps and having been there for an hour or so suddenly realised that I had ommited to cut the sound fret in the side panel so this had to be done when the cramps were removed.

Having marked out the correct positioning the aperture was cut using the scroll saw






And a framework was then made to fit the aperture






Before being fitted into the side and the brass fret cut to fit






With the sections completed the head was glued up before I left this afternoon to pick the kids up from school






Will be back on it tomorrow and will hopefully get the head completed and the doors for the trunk and head made also.


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## devonwoody (27 Mar 2013)

Well done, I would have spent the day sawing logs up there to keep warm! :wink:


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## StarGazer (27 Mar 2013)

Reading the comments about modern movements made me chuckle, currently sitting opposite a 1760 long case clock with its original movement. I suppose it might need a service in a few years but that is it. Case is oak with fruitwood banding as decoration and a beautifully figured door. Keeps perfect time just have to remember to wind it every evening (30hour movement). The tick tock gives the house a real heartbeat and it sounds strangely silent when we forget to wind it and it stops in the early morning.


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## Eric The Viking (3 Apr 2013)

StarGazer":2a0c5hc1 said:


> Reading the comments about modern movements made me chuckle, currently sitting opposite a 1760 long case clock with its original movement. I suppose it might need a service in a few years but that is it. Case is oak with fruitwood banding as decoration and a beautifully figured door. Keeps perfect time just have to remember to wind it every evening (30hour movement). The tick tock gives the house a real heartbeat and it sounds strangely silent when we forget to wind it and it stops in the early morning.


I went to see the clockmaker yesterday afternoon: ours is well underway (full restoration of the clock itself). It's an eight day, with a single chime, long case, Edinburgh, circa 1795. 

We had the case done a few years ago, but the clock hasn't run for about 50 years. There's a lot of work in it, including re-silvering the whole dial. I'm getting quite excited about it now, and even my dad is too, although it was he who stopped running it. He says it had to be in the lounge and he didn't like the tick!

E.

Ps: Roger: brilliant, as ever. I especially like the surround for the fretwork -sets it off really nicely.


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## Dodge (3 Apr 2013)

Sorry for the delay in updating this - life is rather hectic at the moment!

Anyway at the last update I had just started gluing the head section together






and having assembled this the door was made, the upper curved section was mortice and tenoned into the side stiles whilst the lower joints were mitred and strengthened with veneer keys






The door for the trunk was also made and the basic construction is now complete other than the top finials and carved detailing to be applied to the arch at the top of the trunk door. 































The ply where the dial will go is purely a standard size rod (template) as I am yet to get the actual movement as the clients cannot make up their minds what to go for but we are now actually looking into the acquisition and restoration of an old 8 day movement which can be refurbished

There is still a considerable amount to do to the case and was expecting to see the clients over Easter but due to the weather conditions in the Midlands they were unable to get here and have now gone abroad for an extended period so will be putting on hold for a few weeks until their return.


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## stevenw1963 (3 Apr 2013)

That is a lovely piece of workmanship


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## CHJ (3 Apr 2013)

Such a pity the project has to be mothballed after such a quick run to this stage, do you envision any problems, wood shade match etc. with having to delay the finishing.

Must be very frustrating having the two unknowns of movement selection and subsequent project end target pinned down.


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## Dodge (3 Apr 2013)

Personally I am hoping they go with a new Kienninger HS (Copy English movement) rather than a refurb of an old one as could be up to a year to get the refurb done properly. 

Regarding finish colour the whole case will be stained so I am not envisiging any problems at all as they are looking for a deep antique Mahogany finish.

If they don't go new will look to get finished and mothballed until movement arrives - obviously duly paid for!!

Will see, they are back in UK last week of April and have confirmed they will let me have a decision - still in contact by email.


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## mailee (3 Apr 2013)

That really is looking nice Rog. Can't wait to see the finished clock.


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## Dodge (3 Apr 2013)

mailee":fgo4o1hz said:


> That really is looking nice Rog. Can't wait to see the finished clock.



Sorry Allan, you will have to wait a little!!

But remember what your Mum told you - Good things come to those who wait!!


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