# Marples/Stanley Chisel Challenge



## jimi43 (13 Nov 2011)

Hi Guys and Gals

Last week, Douglas and I discussed the merits of the 70s plastic handle Marples and Stanley chisels.

I don't know about you but I think that the day they started putting plastic on any tools was the day that the slippery downward slope into rubbish tools started.

However...there is a short period of time where only the handles were the naff part...the steel on these chisels being surprisingly good.

Because these chisels were bought in their millions by the emerging DIY market...they are really easy to come by at bootfairs and other fairs for very little dosh...indeed most of my fair collection cost less than a squid each.

Since I absolutely hate holding plastic...it was decided to follow in the shoes of the great Derek of the Antipodes and others and make some decent handles for them.

A parting challenge ensued where Douglas and I took one each with a view to seeing who could come up with the best re-handle.

This challenge has expanded a bit with MickCheese and Chris rising to the task as well....

So here is my submission...pretty classic really....alongside the crappy blue plastic one...







I chose to use African Blackwood...which is highly figured (although the photographs will need to be in natural light to show it)....






I also opted to replace the white impact (rubbishy trim really) washer with a nice brass one...






That was the difficult bit...I searched high and low for a suitable washer and then a brainwave hit me...






...use the round end of a brass key! I luckily found one just the right internal and external diameter and set about hacking it up!

I am quite happy with the result...must be worth more than a quid!?

Ok guys...the gauntlet is down...do yer worst!!!

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: 

Jim


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## MickCheese (13 Nov 2011)

Jim, that is very nice.

As soon as I have some time and finish the project I am on at the moment I will give it a go.

Of course if I make a real hash of it I will just keep quiet and hope no one notices!  

Mick


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## studders (13 Nov 2011)

MickCheese":1w8l4l9e said:


> I will just keep quiet and hope no one notices!
> 
> Mick


Nope, won't work now Jimi has 'outed' you.


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## studders (13 Nov 2011)

This is the result of my efforts to re-handle some plastic handled horrors, of varying makes.





Not too good but an improvement on what they were.


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## Jacob (13 Nov 2011)

In my opinion plastic handled chisels are brilliant. It's the best possible material, especially if you are going to give them a bashing. I've never broken one, hardly damaged one, even when the steel is past it (too short etc from years of misuse).
But if you have to replace them then wood is obviously easiest (for us woodworkers). Beech/ash seem good. Rosewood is bad (the only one I have has a split). Box looks nice but splits.


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## Vann (14 Nov 2011)

Aaarrggh, dammit! I have to agree with Jacob (wash my mouth out !! ).

My son-in-law is a chippie (house builder). He needs chisels he can beat the snot out of with his claw hammer, and a tough resin or plastic handle is just the thing. 

But I quite agree - for paring (and other non-violent chisel work) a wooden handle is much, much nicer. I've got some old chisels awaiting new (wooden) handles - just waiting for the tuit.

Cheers, Vann.


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## jimi43 (14 Nov 2011)

I would probably agree with you too Vann....however this thread is about making new handles for them...I have created a new thread just for our dear friend to play in....here :mrgreen: 

Jim


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## woodbloke (14 Nov 2011)

Jim, I got on of they blue plastic handled Marples jobbies and whilst the steel is pretty good (dating from the 70's) the tool sits in my house toolbox as I use it as the '_chisel of abuse_'...one than can be belted with a hammer, used for lifting tacks, opening paint tins and assorted other sundry uses. I like the A Blackwood conversion but for my money, you've left the handle too sharp at far end...that corner will dig into you palm when it's used for say, hand paring. This is the reason that I modified my Jap dovetail chisels:






...lop off the hoop, and dowel on a small bit of English Walnut. They're a bit longer now than standard, but supremely comfortable for hand use only...no tapping with a maul (single 25deg bevel as well) - Rob


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## Evergreen (14 Nov 2011)

Jim, Steve and Rob

Those new handles look beautiful; I admire your skill.

I have a liberal view on the material used for chisel handles. As others have pointed out, plastic is a very practical material for handles that are going to be, literally, hammered and we've all seen many, many old wooden handles that have been done to death by use of the hammer. 

It has to be said that in the early '70s, the Stanley 5001 was the sleekest, sexiest chisel on the block and for me, it was an early object of tool-lust. And I'm quite happy to confess, here on a public forum, that I was also strongly attracted to the Marples range with the "Splitproof" plastic handles. They appeared to be made of an indestructible amber, or perhaps it was because they reminded me of barley sugar. I certainly bought at least one on the strength of that handle.

The trouble is, plastic doesn't age prettily and now that I'm sliding into old age myself, I have a preference for tools that look mellow and feel comfortable. For me, that means wooden handles and as you'll see on another thread, my favourite chisels are vintage with a mixture of beech, box, ash and fruitwood handles. But I still keep my 5001s as back up.


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## jimi43 (14 Nov 2011)

Do you know Rob...I cut the rough end off after lathe work to get rid of the drive marks and was just about to do a nice round off and I had a sudden urge to leave it flat with a little bevel on it and polish the end.

After I photographed it I had second thoughts...and you have amplified those doubts now.

It actually feels very comfortable but I didn't use it for any length of time but as you point out...some (most?) Japanese paring chisels are flat too....

I'm not 100% sure the look works though...I might round it off gently eventually....

But...for the "challenge" entry it stands... :mrgreen: 

I have seen some old Stanleys that Douglas has rehandled and honestly EG...they look gorgeous...kind of where this germ of interest started...furthered by Derek's excellent examples.

Jim


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## Jacob (14 Nov 2011)

jimi43":8tplfck6 said:


> I would probably agree with you too Vann....however this thread is about making new handles for them.......


It's also about the statement; _the handles were the naff part...the steel on these chisels being surprisingly good._
This is wrong on both counts. The handles aren't naff in any way. The only drawback with plastic is the weight - it doesn't work so well with bigger handles. The shape of these is perfect. I'd follow the shape if I had to make wood replacements. 
Secondly, there is nothing surprising about the steel high quality - anybody who ever has used these Marples/Stanleys will confirm this.
I make these points because many beginners might wrongly take it for granted that these tools are inferior in some way.
No objection to anyone making weird (vaguely oriental?) shaped handles from impractical expensive hardwoods but nobody should run away with the idea that this is in any way necessary. 
If you just want to do woodwork they are best left alone. The "tools as ornaments" thing is just a different game altogether. :lol:


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## Racers (14 Nov 2011)

Hi,

I have two sets of day to day chisels a nice collection of old cast steel ones and a modern set of marples/stanley ones that I take out to jobs etc. I don't risk my best ones any more after hitting a nail and having to spend a lot of time regrinding one.

I much prefer using to old ones so much nicer to handle, but the plastic ones have there uses as well.

See Jacob a compromise :wink: 


Pete


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## condeesteso (14 Nov 2011)

Very nice Jim - here we go then:
It's a 1/4", usual blue handle etc





The blade was OK, not excellent. I wouldn't bother with badly worn ones as there are enough around.
I needed to take around .7mm off the primary to get back to a good flat back. then a quick flatting and polish on the back, then a secondary. In this case I've gone for 28 and 33 degrees - a reasonable balance for general bench use I feel.




The handle comes off quickly... hacksaw across then down beside the tang, then a wrench




Here's the handle 'inspiration' - the excellent LN. I like the shape, and it's low mass and feels good in the hand.




Stock is Lemonwood - quite like box but not quite so hard. Light but tough - ideal for balance and handling close to the cutting edge




Shaped, but not yet fully fitted down:




This is why I like light handles, makes control close-in very good:




Back got a final polish on Autosol / mdf... takes 15 seconds and checks the back is truly flat:




And here are a couple I did a while ago, but I now prefer this (LN-style) handle shape, and it's designed for hitting with a mallet too.

The new one goes back to the owner now.


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## jimi43 (14 Nov 2011)

Very nice indeed Douglas!

Are you going to epoxy the two together or is it just a firm fit?

I think that I will be handing the glove to you my friend on this one....for the time being....until the other combatants present their entries.....

I think I will make a set and a little box to put them in...the presentation boxes from Japan that Derek showed us before are rather nice...just plane pine to show off the contents...

I doubt if I would be hitting mine but the African blackwood is pretty tough stuff...I suspect the lemonwood is able to take a few knocks too....rather nice isn't it!

I might be using that where a light wood is necessary and size precludes the use of expensive boxwood.

Cheers mate...

Jim


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## condeesteso (14 Nov 2011)

I will not accept 'the glove' - just interesting the different approaches, yours is more refined. I was actually thinking as I did mine that I wasn't making jewellery... I mean a working tool. Just re-handled the 1/2" the same as it worked well on the quarter.
I don't think any of us said or implied the steel is under doubt, I most certainly never have. But the plastic handle is heavy and a bit cumbersome. Also it's ugly and I never pick anything up if it's ugly... goes back to when I was at college.

(Studder's London pattern... now, I'd pick one of them up.)


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## studders (14 Nov 2011)

condeesteso":3587f2sx said:


> (Studder's London pattern... now, I'd pick one of them up.)



They are _very _nice to hold but, as you can see in the pic, getting all the 'bits' the right size, the right shape and in the right place was a bit of a mare for an inexperienced turner like wot I is. I might have another go when I've got some spare time, see if I can't get them a bit better.


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## woodbloke (14 Nov 2011)

studders":33458al0 said:


> This is the result of my efforts to re-handle some plastic handled horrors, of varying makes.
> 
> 
> Not too good but an improvement on what they were.


If I can offer a little helpful advice to improve the next ones you do, I'd suggest that the curve in the handles immediately after the ferule is too shallow. It really needs to be much steeper:






...as I've done with these old skews and a nice brass ferule helps as well - Rob


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## adidat (14 Nov 2011)

my entry wont be ready for a few days, although i think i misunderstood the brief :lol:


adidat


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## condeesteso (14 Nov 2011)

Adi... ! What brief, write your own. ccasion5:


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## studders (14 Nov 2011)

woodbloke":4cdwrtcr said:


> ...as I've done with these old skews and a nice brass ferule helps as well - Rob



Yes, that's more wot I woz aiming for, better adjust my sights on the turning chisels.


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## No skills (14 Nov 2011)

'London pattern' - does this refer to the octagonal shape of the handles?

(sorry for the dim question)

Woodbloke, those two are very nice =P~


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## Sawyer (14 Nov 2011)

No doubt, Chippendale's journeymen would have jumped at the chance of having chisels with virtually indestructible handles! Aesthetics aside, plastic handles are good and withstand the tremendous bashing that chisels get, very well.
I once had the amber 'splitproof' handle come off a Marples mortice chisel and re-handled it with ash. Otherwise, it's a case of 'if it aint broke, don't fix it'. 

In fact, I prefer the feel of wood handles, but blowed if I'm going to bother changing a perfectly serviceable handle just 'cos it's plastic. Sometimes, just sometimes, it's convenient to use a hammer instead of a mallet: no problem at all, with a plastic handle. 

By the way, why does nobody seem to make firmer chisels any more? For general work, I prefer them and find the square edge quite useful.


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## jimi43 (14 Nov 2011)

In case we are confused, there is another thread started by moi to bash out the merits of plastic or wood to your hearts delight....feel free to voice your opinion there as I shall not be visiting that thread again.... :mrgreen: :wink: 

This particular thread assumes you are wanting/going to...change the absolutely rubbish plastic cruddy yucky horrible handle on any of these otherwise fine tools to something more pleasing and act as a place to post those modifications...

PHEW!!

Right...back to the original programme....

Ok Douglas...but I have already cast my vote....I love the way that thin steel is accentuated by the chunky handle...it is amazing how a design can be altered slightly and yet be so very much more beautiful...it has something to do with Fibonacci I know it does!!! 8) 

Hey Chris...there are no time nor brief limits...go for it mate.

Rob...Studders...the octagonal pattern is one of my most favourites and I know how difficult it is to do...

I tried it once...







I probably won't attempt it again until I am far more skilled with the lathe...that shape is very very easy to get totally wrong...but beautiful if right!

Looking forward to seeing the other entries!

Jim


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## nellieboy (15 Nov 2011)

hi all been a while since i last visited.coincidentally i have been collecting old stanley 5001chisels at carboots to make into butt chisels .im toying with putting wooden handles on them.my question is do you reshape the tang or just bore a hole for a tight interference fit as they are. many thanks neil


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## studders (15 Nov 2011)

I reground the tangs as I didn't have any araldite when I did them, I think Araldite would be a lot quicker provided it held ok.


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## condeesteso (15 Nov 2011)

hi nellieboy - I have found that a tight-ish fit and Araldite does very well. The tangs seem to vary so measure each one (vernier if possible) and go for just that or very slightly under (fractions of a mm). This is where having metric and imperial drills is handy as some of the sizes are a bit odd - one of the ones I did measured 9.6mm and I found an imperial that was about bang on (don't have a 9.5mm). Grinding 3 flats and an interference fit is an option, but I don't have a bench grinder and couldn't be bothered with the angle grinder!
Re *'London Pattern'*, I believe that is what the octagonal with the rounded shoulder by the ferrule is referred to. Someone may have a clearer definition and some history... ?


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## Jacob (15 Nov 2011)

The few times I've re-handled anything I've always fitted the tang to the blank first - drill a bit , tap it in, drill/chisel a bit more, try it again, etc, until it's nearly home by say 2mm. Then shape the handle around the fit of the tang. Then tap it in the last 2mm for a very tight fit. 
Saves a lot of effin about - it's really difficult to fit a lumpy cast tang perfectly central in a nicely turned handle.
Though come to think I don't turn the handles - I shape them with plane, spokeshave etc.


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## pedder (15 Nov 2011)

condeesteso":u2okr81o said:


> This is why I like light handles, makes control close-in very good:





jimi43":u2okr81o said:


>



Douglas Jim, 

these are some very very nice handles. I'm glad, I don't have to choose!

And Jim, I like this one, too!





Cheers 
Pedder


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## jimi43 (15 Nov 2011)

Thought you might like that old English Octagonal my friend.

Glad to see you recognised it! Did you find a piece of steel to attach to it yet?

Jim


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## pedder (15 Nov 2011)

jimi43":toqaauyx said:


> Thought you might like that old English Octagonal my friend.
> 
> Glad to see you recognised it! Did you find a piece of steel to attach to it yet?
> 
> Jim



Hi Jim, 

No, he is virgin until today.  

(I don't even try to learn genders of things on English, sorry if you're irritated)

I'm looking for the right ferrule and and a nice big file. 

Cheers 
Pedder


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## woodbloke (15 Nov 2011)

No skills":2c5jx5d7 said:


> Woodbloke, those two are very nice =P~


Ta, they take a little practice to get right, but the smallest ferule you can get away with makes it easier to get the curves looking half decent. The stock material starts off at 25mm square or so...in fact Alf did a very good tutorial somewhere on making London Pattern handles. Here's another one I did some time ago:






...this time it's in African Ebony for a little fishtail chisel - Rob


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## No skills (15 Nov 2011)

Thanks all, I do like the look of the 'London' pattern - I might try a couple of old ones out at home see how comfy they are.


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## Alf (16 Nov 2011)

Making Best London Pattern Octagonal Chisel Handles, and also Replacing plastic chisel handles, aka "Lathe? Lathe?! You Don't Need No Stinkin' Lathe"


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## No skills (16 Nov 2011)

Thats some nice handles there Alf, does inspire a need for a set of chisels with different coloured handles  I'll have to start hunting down some older chisels with good steel to make my 'Good' chisel set up with.


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## Jacob (16 Nov 2011)

Alf":2uhs58z1 said:


> Making Best London Pattern Octagonal Chisel Handles, and also Replacing plastic chisel handles, aka "Lathe? Lathe?! You Don't Need No Stinkin' Lathe"


That reminds me - what happened to the badges? I never got mine  Do we have a badge monitor?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsdZKCh6 ... re=related


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## condeesteso (16 Nov 2011)

Jim promised some 'Jim fixed it for me' badges a while ago too. Never materialised. Not shopping there again.


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## woodbloke (16 Nov 2011)

Alf":2w8kd1az said:


> Making Best London Pattern Octagonal Chisel Handles,


That's the bad boy...worth a quick peek :wink: - Rob


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (17 Nov 2011)

I've posted this before. Made for a friend, an ex-Stanley circa 1970 ...






The handle was replaced, and the shoulders hollow ground to minimal lands. Finally the blade was re-heat treated ...

Here it is being hollow ground ..











Regards from Perth

Derek


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## Jamesc (17 Nov 2011)

Here is my contribution.

I found this sorry pair burried in the mud on a building site. They just seemed made for each other so I had a go.




P1010009 by Jmaes-C, on Flickr

And here it is after, I am a converted metal worker and at the time did not have a woodwrking lathe (I am still building it). I surface ground the blade so that it is completly flat and made a comfortable handle within the limitations of the lump of wood I found and the slow speed of my metalworking lathe.




DSCN0780 by [url=http://www.flickr.com

James


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## jumps (17 Nov 2011)

Jamesc":2t79b6g7 said:


> Here is my contribution.
> 
> I found this sorry pair burried in the mud on a building site. They just seemed made for each other so I had a go.
> 
> ...


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## Jamesc (17 Nov 2011)

Thanks, 

I must admit I get a real kick out of turning discrded junk back into usefull tools. My workshop is a testament to the fact that I can't pass up an opertunity to put some new life into mostly old machinery. I can't move in there at the moment  . Still the management has just given me permission to build an extension provided I builde her a new potting shed so guess what I will be doing in the new year.

James


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## condeesteso (17 Nov 2011)

Just given the 1/2" Marples a work-out - 16 mortices. Handles a dream, great balance and holding its edge very well indeed. The lemonwood handle has taken a lot of bashing from the KT mallet, which has a boxer's punch, it makes contact and just keeps going through.
Here's a pic, with the cutting gauge used to mark the mortices. I'm supposed to be doing a review - soon as poss, but in the meantime it's working very well.


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## Alf (17 Nov 2011)

Of course you do realise this is going to play havoc with old tool buyers in the future. "Hey, I just bought this old wooden handled chisel at the hover-car boot sale, and ..."


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## Jacob (17 Nov 2011)

What's this fashion for handles with waists about? Everybody's doing it (except James above). Doesn't look particularly practical to me. 
I think future old tool buyers will spot them a mile off and be searching for unspoiled originals!


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## MickCheese (17 Nov 2011)

I quite like the waisted design. I have a couple of Elu chisels with squarish handles and an indented / waisted handle. Very comfortable as a thumb rest when pairing.

Mick


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## condeesteso (17 Nov 2011)

Hi Jacob - I'm sure you know already that the handle I did comes from the U.S. Stanleys circa 1920, now re-introduced with their Sweetheart reincarnations. All LN did was start with that archive design and tune it a little.* It's not a fashion*. And before you knock it, maybe just try it first?


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## Jacob (17 Nov 2011)

I'm not knocking it I'm just wondering. 
The shape goes with a socket IMHO and is a bit weak with a tang. Not enough wood around it.
Yes I will try it if one ever comes my way (again) - I did have one that shape (and a socket; J Fowler Canada) but ebayed it as it looked like a collectable. 
It is a fashion thing though, there's no denying it!


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (17 Nov 2011)

Jacob, the "waist" is a place to push with or against your thumb.

Regards from Perth

Derek


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## condeesteso (17 Nov 2011)

Jacob - close to very bored now. "It is a fashion thing though, there's no denying it!"
I explained that it wasn't, and why. If you can be bothered, explain why it is (a fashion thing). And defend your view that there is 'no denying it'.

p.s. I knocked merry sh*t out of my 1/2" today - it does not need a socket to work. Repeat, TRY IT, then spout forth.


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## jimi43 (22 Jan 2012)

At the risk of hoping that this thread stays on track.... i.e. a challenge to make wooden handles for old Marples and Stanley chisels....I am re-awakening it to say that mine seem to be multiplying.......






....in the hope of making a usable set of the ones I regularly grab.

I kind of cocked up a bit...picked up a thicker brass stock than the first one....






#-o (homer) 

Bit late to change that now! Just got to wait until the beeswax to soak in (that's what's on it now...my turning ain't good but it ain't that bad!!)

Now all I have to do is make three more once I find a decent source of African Blackwood.

To me at least....they feel far better than the blue plastic originals...and the ding definitely does make a more positive stop for the thumb in use....no hypothesis there then!

Oh....and I rounded the ends off in the traditional manner....the flat end was uncomfortable in trials...you live and learn!

Jim


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## MickCheese (22 Jan 2012)

Jim

They look really well made and the 'thumb' grip looks like a good addition.

I have stripped a blade back but not got around to adding a new handle yet. Must get on with it.

Well done,.

Mick


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## condeesteso (28 Jan 2012)

A quick addition - an old U.S. Stanley socket chisel, which lost it's original handle a few years ago anyway (badly damaged when I got it). A new African blackwood one. I use this a lot as a parer and so the handle is quite long. One of my favourite and most-used chisels.


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## jimi43 (28 Jan 2012)

Ah...now that is cheating! :wink: 

That happens to be about a dozen quality steps above the old Marples there mate...and it has a real socket. :mrgreen: 

Mind you...the design looks vaguely familiar! :mrgreen: :wink: 

Nice one! Well worth restoring if the recent thread for a "set" is anything to go by..........CLICKITY CLICK :mrgreen: :shock: 

Jim


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## Jacob (28 Jan 2012)

condeesteso":3ss5ji6u said:


> A quick addition - an old U.S. Stanley socket chisel, which lost it's original handle a few years ago anyway (badly damaged when I got it). A new African blackwood one. I use this a lot as a parer and so the handle is quite long. One of my favourite and most-used chisels.


That's really weird. What's it for, druidical rites on the full moon or something? Spooky. :roll:
Beam me up Scrotty!


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## condeesteso (29 Jan 2012)

yes Jacob, I know it may look a little odd, not that odd for a parer* surely. But thing is it works very well - overall it's about 14" long. I'm not sure the 'original' handle was original anyway, but it was oak (and split). *Was this a parer anyway - it's like a thinnish b/e all-rounder, but it's quite a long blade. English parers (vintage) tend to be much thinner blades with bevels to nothing almost at edges.


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (29 Jan 2012)

condeesteso":3acl6kaz said:


> A quick addition - an old U.S. Stanley socket chisel, which lost it's original handle a few years ago anyway (badly damaged when I got it). A new African blackwood one. I use this a lot as a parer and so the handle is quite long. One of my favourite and most-used chisels.



That is likely a Stanley #720, which was the paring chisel of the #7XX types. They had longer blades and, I think, a little thinner than the better-known #750 bevel edge chisels (that LN later used as the basis for their bench chisel).

I put together a set of #750 chisels ... well, they were essentially blades only when I bought them (cheaply as a result), then ground the sides until the lands were very fine, and added longer handles. They are a very nice chisel, great balance, and hold a decent edge for O1-type steel. The wood is Western Australian She-Oak.






Regards from Perth

Derek


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## condeesteso (29 Jan 2012)

They are really very nice indeed, Derek. I wish I could find a set of 750s at a sensible price. I'm quite keen on the socket construction, and if my 720 is anything to go by (and the 2" I have) they are very good indeed.


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## Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) (29 Jan 2012)

Hi Douglas

Those Stanley were collected over a period of about 18 months, almost all on eBay (USA). The collectors want good handles. I wanted good blades, and so looked for those with poor or no handles. The 1/8" was ground out of a 1/4", and the 3/8 from a second 1/2".

Regards from Perth

Derek


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## Sawyer (1 Feb 2012)

Looks like I'm going to have to join in on this one. Doing some hand morticing this afternoon, I bust the yellow/orange 'Shatterproof' handle of my Marples 3/8" sash mortice chisel. Grrr!

Not altogether surprising after years of hard bashing with a big mallet, but I seem to recall that there was a lifetime guarantee on these 'Shatterproof' handles, even if you used a hammer. 

Now then, where's that box of receipts from 1986? Maybe not, I suppose Irwin might replace it, but the old Marples is excellent steel, so I better make a new handle instead...

Any suggestions on what makes the best ferrules?


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## jimi43 (1 Feb 2012)

Sawyer":2ukuyhpc said:


> Looks like I'm going to have to join in on this one. Doing some hand morticing this afternoon, I bust the yellow/orange 'Shatterproof' handle of my Marples 3/8" sash mortice chisel. Grrr!
> 
> Not altogether surprising after years of hard bashing with a big mallet, but I seem to recall that there was a lifetime guarantee on these 'Shatterproof' handles, even if you used a hammer.
> 
> ...



Depending on the size of the chisel of course...I use a 3/4" OD - 5/8" ID brass cased tube that I think came from a bootfair. There is one supplier on FleaBay CLICKITY CLICK

It's stronger than plain brass, cheaper and you can't tell the difference once it's on!

Cheers

Jimi


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## No skills (1 Feb 2012)

I've been eyeing up various electrical fittings (used for armour cable entry into fuse boxes/junction boxes etc) for possible ferrule material (cutting off the bits I need) - not sure if their solid brass but theres loads of different sizes. I tend to get the odd few from repairs I do at work, might be usefull for the odd tool.

I've got a few of the older marples split proof (pre irwin) some where, my handles have become odd shapes  another thing on the 'to do' list.


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## jimi43 (1 Feb 2012)

No skills":3dzkkgd8 said:


> I've been eyeing up various electrical fittings (used for armour cable entry into fuse boxes/junction boxes etc) for possible ferrule material (cutting off the bits I need) - not sure if their solid brass but theres loads of different sizes. I tend to get the odd few from repairs I do at work, might be usefull for the odd tool.
> 
> I've got a few of the older marples split proof (pre irwin) some where, my handles have become odd shapes  another thing on the 'to do' list.



There are quite a few bits and bobs that I find at bootfairs which yield suitable tubes....worth scouring the next one. The problem is...whereas last year they were relatively popular with the scrap collectors...this year they are likely to be gold dust...what with the price of brass an' all!

It also helps if you have a lathe...you can modify quite a lot of strange sizes to suit then.

Jim


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## No skills (1 Feb 2012)

I'll keep an eye out should I get to any fairs this coming season. The nearest I will ever get to a lathe will be a drill powered effort :shock:  

Shame the melting point is so high with brass, the amount of euro cylinder locks I change I could start melting the pippers down and make the ferrules from scratch


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## adidat (2 Feb 2012)

Brass is quite low in comparrison at about 950 C

Adidat


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## AndyT (2 Feb 2012)

If you have any unsuitable brass scrap lying around that you don't want don't chuck it ... 
I took an old shower mixer bar and some taps to a local scrap dealer recently and was paid £2.50 per kilo even with the chrome plating, plastic bits etc. Mixed copper would pay £3.50 per kilo, ali 60p and lead 80p. They didn't seem to mind dealing with my little carrier bag, rather than a whole skip!


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## No skills (2 Feb 2012)

adidat":32nul8wr said:


> Brass is quite low in comparrison at about 950 C
> 
> Adidat



I assumed that brass had a high melting point, probably from its use in old machinery I've seen - shouldnt assume I supose  


Andy

Fear not, very little brass or copper gets thrown away by me :wink:


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## Harbo (2 Feb 2012)

At the ME Show a few weeks ago, "new" brass was priced at £12.50/kg!

Rod


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## jimi43 (8 Jun 2012)

I thought I would reactivate this thread because I have another Stanley/Marples vintage chisel...part of the bootfair hauls this year...suitably "dipped" and derusted in Corro-Dip...but still with the horrible black plastic handle.

As with the other two...this one is really nice steel...with a bit of pitting but not enough to just throw it away...

I chose not to use African blackwood this time...for a couple of reasons...the most important of which is I don't have any more at present! :mrgreen: 

I do have some billets of pear though...which was given to me by my mother who is always on the lookout for felled trees for me...and these were rived and waxed for quite a few months to dry out to about 20%....so I roughed one out on the lathe to see how it worked...







I love the look of fruitwoods...since seeing them in use on the Two Lawyers saw handles...they have an understated majesty...and subtle grain...and I was surprised to see...very white!






So I had a nice little thought about my growing collection of rehandled chisels...what if I make some black...and some white...cool!

First to saw off that abomination of materials...the plastic....






...this is done with a hacksaw just above the tang (roughly!)...and then using a Mole wrench, the rest twists off easily.






Done!






Rust has even got inside owing to water ingress courtesy of capillary action....this needs to come off...






....by brushing with a copper brush and then filing to rough up the surface....






Care is taken here to take any rough casting from the top of the flange..this would make the washer stand proud otherwise...leaving a gap.

The pear turned very easily...I really have to turn some more of this again...I spend most of my time with wild woods!

It really is white!!!






The shape was checked for size by the Grand Master Craftsman...ALFIE.....






...who advised a tad more from the flute....which the apprenticed did...and then it was drilled to 10mm and the tang force fitted...with the washer in place...






Now all that is needed is a few coats of Tru-Oil and polishing with 3M Micromesh and we are done...

But for now..I like the contrast....






Off to the bootfair tomorrow...I need to find one in between size to do another white pear one!

Jim


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## Richard T (9 Jun 2012)

Very very nice Jim. I like Pear wood very much. I know that Apple and Pear are traditional for saw handles and I hope it stands up to being a chisel handle.
Will be interesting to see how it stands up to bashing.


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## Kalimna (9 Jun 2012)

Very nice indeed. I really must make the effort to get to some bootfairs up here in Alloa-land. And also make an effort to make some new handles for some older plastic handled chisels my dad had (I have no idea what they are, some are black, some blue, some red). But heres a notion to throw a spanner in the works - on your other thread, you ask which is better, wood or plastic (and aside from what is actually meant by 'better'), well how about acrylic-infused woods such as some BS birdeye maple bench chisels I acquired when I got married a couple of years ago? Wood *and* plastic - best of both worlds, no?

Adam


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## bugbear (11 Jun 2012)

Richard T":1ndoz6n2 said:


> Very very nice Jim. I like Pear wood very much. I know that Apple and Pear are traditional for saw handles and I hope it stands up to being a chisel handle.
> Will be interesting to see how it stands up to bashing.



Pear was the "goto" wood for ebonising.

BugBear


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## condeesteso (11 Jun 2012)

That's a massive improvement Jim - I like the very blond pear, I got some steamed pear (by mistake, kind of) and it is way too pink, so it's just sitting in stock.
The plum that Two Lawyers use is also very attractive, so keep en eye out for a plum tree!
And I am still convinced those oldish Stanleys and Marples are really excellent chisels - I use mine more than my LNs and they take a finer edge no doubt (the Lies being A2).


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## Mike Wingate (1 Mar 2013)

I got hold of an old Stanley 5001 with a white washer. 1" bevelled edge. The blade is cleaning up well and the handle came off really easily after reading the above. I have a set of original new ones that I still use that I bought before going to college in '69.


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## MickCheese (6 Sep 2015)

I know this is an old thread but it's taken me four years to get around to this. 

Here is my novice attempt at a bit of turning. In the woods near me the farmer had a good deal of ash trees taken down. I grabbed a few bits that were not to heavy to carry and left them to dry for a while before turning these handles. 

The one with a white plastic shock absorber is an old Stanley 5001. The metal shock absorbers are pennies that I drilled into and then made fit.

The problem I had with the pennies was that I didn't flatten each side so the heads and tails make it look like there is a small gap, which there is. I also didn't realise that pennies are not bronze in colour but steel coloured once you get past the top surface. 

Anyway, I'm happy with my first attempt.

Mick


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## Phil Pascoe (6 Sep 2015)

Pre 1982 pennies are copper all the way through - after that they became copper plated steel.


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