# What's Blister up too now ?



## Blister (20 Aug 2009)

Well after the arrival of the BGM :lol: , I though it was time for a shake up / re vamp / workshop sort out  

I am now going to move into the Garage as my turning shop so decided to take it from this 






to this 






no light feet in itself :roll: , move everything , move the racking , re build the racking etc etc :roll: 

Then I had the idea to batten and insulate the walls 8) so I would be nice and warm when the cold season arrives , proceded to batten the walls with 35 mm sq stock .





I also got 10 sheets of 35 mm insulation with foil either side












, and 10 sheets of OSB 8 x 4 to cover it all up , Was told to use oil based paint on the boards 

Firstly I was going to cut a 45 degree end to go over the cement fillet along the botton of the walls , looks like this 





but decided against it as it would have no strength to support the walls :roll: 

So out with this lot 






and start chipping away 14 mtrs of this 






Then fix the battens top and bottom with steel brackets 






I then had to cut the insulation into 14" wide strips so as to keep the spacing correct so a 8 x 4 sheet would fix to the end battens






Still have loads to do , but will update when needed 

Have fun out there 8)


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## cornucopia (20 Aug 2009)

my garage is exactly the same construction blister- the sloping concrete is there for a reason-it does somthing- i dont know what :-k but i'm sure it does.

i've just re-lined mine with 20mm osb- Prime it with zinsser bin or oil based allcoat then apply what ever finish you want i chose dulux trade diamond egggshell P.B.W 

dont for get the roof btw


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## johnny.t. (20 Aug 2009)

Looks like a proper job  

Bet the chiseling away the cement was 'fun' in this nice hot weather :lol:


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## CHJ (20 Aug 2009)

The sloping fillet is to stop water ingress, expect the bottom batten now fixed to the floor to get water saturated and wick up the inner wall and any residual water to flow over the floor.

Any water running down the outer concrete panel skin will have a natural tendancy to flow under the wall.


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## loz (20 Aug 2009)

cornucopia":1rbrap48 said:


> my garage is exactly the same construction blister- the sloping concrete is there for a reason-it does somthing- i dont know what :-k but i'm sure it does.
> 
> i've just re-lined mine with 20mm osb- Prime it with zinsser bin or oil based allcoat then apply what ever finish you want i chose dulux trade diamond egggshell P.B.W
> 
> dont for get the roof btw



My Workshop is the same also - The Concrete creates a square spigot that the walls sit on - kinda like on top of a turned box. ( how very apt ! ) 

So if you chisel it all away your garage will fall off its base 

Great idea the cladding ! - although i found with my lathe, running over winter the workshop was warm enough even to have the window open.

Loz


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## loz (20 Aug 2009)

CHJ":sozmdzue said:


> The sloping fillet is to stop water ingress, expect the bottom batten now fixed to the floor to get water saturated and wick up the inner wall and any residual water to flow over the floor.
> 
> Any water running down the outer concrete panel skin will have a natural tendancy to flow under the wall.



And that !

Maybe you could attach a waterproof skirt around the base of the walls, sealed at the join, to allow the run off to ground level ?


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## cornucopia (20 Aug 2009)

if the winds blowing in the right direction i occasinally get some rain come under but my battens sits on top of the fillet and my new osb sits 1/2" above the concrete floor.
I also sealed around the base of the walls with silicon to help stop any water getting through.


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## Blister (20 Aug 2009)

When the garage was originally constructed it was put on a raised collar of bricks , so it was above ground level , Dad decided to put the fillet in ? not sure why as we have never had any problems with water , The inside of the base was then infilled to the top course of bricks , 

Hope I have not ballsed it up , will find out in the rainy season  

Saw a web site that said use oil based primer not water based , so I have a 2.5 ltr tin ready to put on :lol: 

I am going to fix white tongue and grove cladding inside the roof with some rockwall above it , so hopefully it will be snug :mrgreen: :mrgreen: 

Must get back to the grind stone (hammer) (hammer) 

will update again over the weekend :wink:


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## Paul.J (20 Aug 2009)

I had that concrete fillet round my garage when it was erected.
The rain still came in :roll: 
So when i done what you are doing now,it all came up,most of it was loose anyway,and done what George done sealed all the joints outside the garage with sealant.


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## SVB (20 Aug 2009)

One thing to keep in mind when you insulate the roof is to leave an air gap between the insulation and roof and a route for outside air to circulate. This will stop condensation forming and consequential damp problems.

Looks like it will be a really nice space.

One other tip now you have some big toys, consider installing some cheap roller blinds that will roll down to hip height ish around the BGM (leaving space to work). You can then roll them down to act as a shaving catcher when you are roughing / letting the shavings fly. This saves loads of time clearing up after an enthusiastic turning session.

Keep the piccys coming.

Simon.


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## Blister (20 Aug 2009)

SVB":2h8590x9 said:


> One thing to keep in mind when you insulate the roof is to leave an air gap between the insulation and roof and a route for outside air to circulate. This will stop condensation forming and consequential damp problems.
> 
> Looks like it will be a really nice space.
> 
> ...



Funny you should mention that , I was going to get some cheap plastic shower curtains and hang them up on poles , when not in use just pull them back out of the way 

Thanks
for your comments


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## devonwoody (28 Nov 2010)

So, Blister, how did you get on with the insulated roof. I've got the corrugated one like yours?


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## Blister (28 Nov 2010)

devonwoody":fy4rmbuh said:


> So, Blister, how did you get on with the insulated roof. I've got the corrugated one like yours?



Morning Devon W

Yes I have a corrugated roof and sorted it out as follows 

Removed all old lights and timber brackets / rubbish etc 

Installed lengths of 3 " x 2 " timbers running along the length of the roof 22ft long , I cut notches in the timbers to allow the timber to fit over the angle irion roof trusses so the 2" side comes flush with the lowest side of the angle iron 

I then slid in 30mm thick polystyrene sheets along the lenght of the roof 

Then put up interior grade white steel sheeting plastic coated and used self tapping fixings with built in washers and sealing o rings 

Then fixed 2" x 1" battens all around the outside of the roof to hold up the outer edges of the white roof sheets 

I will take some photos later when I go down the workshop and post them up


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## devonwoody (28 Nov 2010)

Thanks Blister, look forward to pics. to follow your instructions.

Also does it work?

It would be nice if the outside corrugated material had a coating of some form of sealer. The underside of my asbestos looks damp after bad weather.


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## Blister (28 Nov 2010)

devonwoody":t52298o8 said:


> Thanks Blister, look forward to pics. to follow your instructions.
> 
> Also does it work?
> 
> It would be nice if the outside corrugated material had a coating of some form of sealer. The underside of my asbestos looks damp after bad weather.



OK John

Photos as promised :wink: 






This shot shows the apex of the roof , as the sheets are profiled I had to cut through one set of profiles to get the sheets to bend up into the apex , The sheets were 10 foot long and fitted across the garage without trimming :lol: 




These are the fixings , I think they are for roofs , so supposed to be waterproof 


.






To hold the outer edge up tight to the walls I used 2" x 1 " battens screwd all around the edge 






All painted to match the walls , I am happy with the end result , and yes it does work , keeps it nice and warm as directly above is the insulation sheets also running side to side across the width of the garage 


I forgot to take photos of the wooden battens I installed to screw the roof sheets to 

 

but there is only 2 , you can see the 2 rows of screws in the photo , then the outer edge batten fixings , that's it , Jobs a good en :lol:


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## devonwoody (28 Nov 2010)

Thanks Blister for taking the trouble and posting pics.


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## Deckbuilder (1 Dec 2010)

Hi BLISTER, 

Have you noticed any condensation on the new ceiling mate ?

JD


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## Blister (1 Dec 2010)

Deckbuilder":24wfi9ac said:


> Hi BLISTER,
> 
> Have you noticed any condensation on the new ceiling mate ?
> 
> JD



JD

No , its as dry as a bone :lol:


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## Deckbuilder (1 Dec 2010)

What type of sheets are they exactly mate ?


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## Blister (3 Dec 2010)

Deckbuilder":eij0ven9 said:


> What type of sheets are they exactly mate ?



Cant remember the name , but they are interior grade steel sheets white on one side , gray on the other , 10 foot long 

If I remember correctly about £150 for enough to do a 9 ft by 22 ft garage


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## Sidthesod (18 Dec 2016)

Hi Had a shed built like this and drying it out is a pain, using a oil heater and dehum. looking a your firs pics with battons and year you did it. would you do it again but use bigger sheets and mount using stuff like "stick like sh!*" from Screwfix. I'm not using it to fast to once it's done. it's going to be a store and workbench at one side.

The floor right now is as laid in Oct still drying out and was pva seal it and lino and rubber sections you can buy that click together.

Any advice pls


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## Blister (18 Dec 2016)

My garage / workshop was built long before I converted it , It has a cement fillet on the outside , No problems with a damp floor , Would not change any this , its still going strong , no problems


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## Robbo3 (19 Dec 2016)

Presume BGM means Big Green Machine. Record?

I also have a concrete sectional garage for a workshop. The best thing I ever did was replace the asbestos type roof with twin wall polycarbonate. To counteract the crazy heat of summer I have moveable sheets of 3mm, 4' x 2' ply. Not quite big enough to fully cover the inside - leaves about 6" at the ridge uncovered, but that gives a lot of extra daylight.

Other changes included increasing the pitch of the roof to gain extra storage, by making new 'A' frames out of unistrut (because it was free) but angle iron would be suitable. There's not really a lot of weight to the original roof even when covered in snow as it's evenly distributed. The original 3/4" (Edit: 1") angle iron 'A' frames would easily stand my weight.

Because I had to make new apex end panels to accommodate the change in pitch, I made one end slide outwards on four 20mm x 8" (Edit: more like 12") lengths of galv conduit (again free). That also makes a huge difference in summer.

I haven't bothered with wall insulation because of the space it takes up. In winter I have a small 5kw wood burner which keeps the place warm, sometimes too warm & I have to open the door. Previously I had a wood burner made from a gas bottle that also worked quite well.

Shower curtains & roller blinds are also a good idea - had them for years. Also have roller blinds on the front of shelving units to save them becoming filled with dust.


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## Blister (19 Dec 2016)

*Presume BGM means Big Green Machine.*

No not a Record it was a VB36 , maybe controversial but it was not the lathe for me and I was very happy when it sold 
I longed for one for years :? 

I know some members have them and are happy  We all have choices 

I am very happy with my current lathe

Any photos of your roof conversion , sound interesting


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## Robbo3 (19 Dec 2016)

Blister, this is your thread about your shed. I only chipped in because it may be helpful to anyone contemplating making changes to their own.

Gable end made from whatever materials I happen to have at the time. The adjusable vent allows some excess heat to escape but was more to let out the smoke when I didn't get enough draw from the flue with a previous fire - cured by lengthening flue. You can just make out the four pieces of pipe that act as runners for the centre portion of the end.

One roller blind covers shelving & another hangs from the roof purlin (can just be seen in top left of photo). Made using the material from yet another blind so that it has the length to reach the floor. It's amazing how many shavings manage to find their way under even a 12-18" gap.







Even with the altered pitch, each side of the roof is only 58" from ridge to gutter. Kept the cost down by using 2m wide sheets thus using fewer glazing bars. In addition because of the small span height wise, they only need fixing where they rest on the wall plate & purlin. Mine have been through the horrendous gales we've suffered the last couple of years, without problem. Even the carport which uses much longer 2m wide by 3.05m sheets came away unscathed.

Suitable material to form the ridge is what I've failed to find. Currently using 3m lengths of 150mm white PVC trim with a centre crease that facilitates bending. Really need something wider & in a longer length.


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## Karlosswan (16 Apr 2019)

I know this is a really old thread however I am planning to do the same to my garage which is exactly the same construction.

How did you fix the battens to the wall?

I was going to use fixing plates fixed to the bolts between the concrete panels to attach the battens to.

Cheers


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