# Rustins Plastic Coating



## RAJ (28 Aug 2006)

Info' wanted on this product.

Best method of application?

Can it be used over a water dye?

Can it be used over a sanding sealer?

Any pic's of projects finished with it?

Suppliers?

Anything else?

Ray 8)


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## Argee (28 Aug 2006)

RAJ":3vlfptoc said:


> Info' wanted on this product.
> 
> Best method of application?


With a good-quality brush, but you'll need to clean it up right away (thinners, not white spirit), otherwise it's in the bin!


RAJ":3vlfptoc said:


> Can it be used over a water dye?


Never tried it, sorry, but see below for the data sheet link.


RAJ":3vlfptoc said:


> Can it be used over a sanding sealer?


Definitely.


RAJ":3vlfptoc said:


> Any pic's of projects finished with it?


Here's a few:















RAJ":3vlfptoc said:


> Suppliers?


Got mine from Axminster Power Tools by mail order. *Here's* an alternative site.


RAJ":3vlfptoc said:


> Anything else?


This product is, to a degree, self-levelling, so don't over-brush it when applying, nor ladle it on, otherwise it'll run. It's two-part and needs mixing exactly as it says on the leaflet - by volume - so you'll need a small (preferably disposable, unless you clean it immediately).measure. After the first coat has dried, lightly de-nib it, then follow with a second coat. I've found that the second coat is really essential, as it produces a glass-like shine that a single coat (even burnished) can't match.

I've used it on turned stuff, so I was able to use the burnishing cream and whizz it round to get a really great finish. I've yet to try it on something that wasn't produced on the lathe. If you click *here*, then click on the "Product Data Sheet" link on the right, you'll get a .pdf file with full details.

HTH 

Ray.


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## RAJ (28 Aug 2006)

Many thank's Argee.

The Data sheet was a great help.

Ray 8)


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## Chris Knight (28 Aug 2006)

I recall you need good ventilation, it really gets to your insides otherwise..DAMHIKT


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## engineer one (29 Aug 2006)

i used it on an oak veneered table i cleaned up a couple of years
ago, nice solid finish after it dried, but of course you need to protect it
from dust settling, other wise it is a pain to get off.  

can be used to provide an eggshell type finish too quite well.

paul :wink:


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## RAJ (30 Aug 2006)

Rustins say not to use it over other manufatures products, well they would say that wouldn't they :roll: 

However I'll be using Liberon wood dyes and Bostik Fast-Tak aerosol adhesive.

Am I asking for trouble if I ignore Rustins guidelines?

Ray 8)


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## Big_Al (5 Sep 2006)

Hi, been reading this thread with interest.
I've been recommended the Rustins plastic coating from various sources for finishing a mahogany guitar body, you can get a really good gloss buildup without the usual need for decent spray equipment. Does anyone know:
a) the difference between the furniture version and the flooring version?
b) Am i correct they also have an interior and exterior version?
c) I believe the one most recommended for a guitar body is the non-floor one, maybe it glosses up better?
d) Approx coat weight/thickness to brush on in one pass? I'll look to give about 3 coats with the third let down a bit with thinners to improve final flow.
This will then be wet sanded down to 800 -1200 grit and buffed with t-cut or similar to a high gloss finish.
Thanks in advance!


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## Scrit (5 Sep 2006)

Hi BA and welcome...... :lol: 

Scrit


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## Big_Al (5 Sep 2006)

Thx! 250ml of plastic coating in their kit; is that going to be enough to finish a guitar body, 3 coats? For an average guitar body size, assume 12" x 16" x 1.5" thick


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## Newbie_Neil (5 Sep 2006)

Hi BA

Welcome to the forum.

Cheers
Neil


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## engineer one (5 Sep 2006)

hi ba welcome, wheni used the product the table is over 8 feet long with 
two spare leaves, and i used 2 coats. without thinning and no de-nibbing either.

i did not buff it afterwards because client wanted a more matte finish.

still looks good a couple of years later, so i guess the answer shoudl be more than enough for the guitatr body, why not two coats, and leave it for a couple of days to properly harden, then buff before deciding on the third.

of course i cannot guarantee that rustins have not modified the mix since 
i used it.

good luck
paul :wink:


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## Big_Al (6 Sep 2006)

Thx for the comments! Can you describe how much coat weight you put down on each run? Is it a pretty loaded brush to allow it to flow out? Enough for approx. 1mm thickness or far less than that?


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## engineer one (6 Sep 2006)

i think you have to think in microns of thickness, not mm

i got the feeling you were thinking 1mm,or did you say 0.1mm

i would doubt you need more than 5 microns thickness
after two coats.
paul :wink:


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## Big_Al (6 Sep 2006)

I was thinking 1/2 to 1 mm. It's amazing how much gloss lacqer they manage to spoon onto some of these top end guitar bodies, then spend 6 hrs removing 85% of it!


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## engineer one (7 Sep 2006)

al why the hell don't you spray the damn things with car paint and varnish.
you get better depth of finish, and more opportunities to colour.??? :twisted: :lol: 

fender et al spray that's for sure. as does gibson on the les paul.

i guess with steam driven ones it is different, but if you are looking
for hi gloss, then frankly car paints are the only way to go.

paul :wink:


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