# clamping at an angle - any experience?



## disco_monkey79 (3 Apr 2017)

Hi

I'm making a chaise, and below is a highly technical side-on profile view, using my own patented Skrew'dUp software.

I need to clamp it together whilst I glue and screw the mortices, but the incline of the legs makes it akward. Anyone had any experience of doing this?






2 ideas occur to me - cutting wedges (represented by the shaded triangles) and then using sash clamps (not that I own any that long), or using ratchet straps. I'm worried the latter may be a little imprecise for fine adjustment.






There are 2 of these sections, that sit side by side, and I want to clamp and glue simultaneously, to ensure they mirror each other.

Thoughts/advice greatly appreciated,

Thanks


----------



## NazNomad (3 Apr 2017)

You already have those wedges. You cut them from the ends of each piece. ;-)


----------



## AndyT (3 Apr 2017)

Use the top of your bench, or a suitable board, larger than the work. Lay the assembly on the board. Screw blocks to the board, outside the assembly, an inch or two away from it. Make pairs of folding wedges to fill the gaps. If there is any tendency for the assembly to slide as it is wedged up, restrain it by more blocks, eg above the two slanting bits. 
Remove, glue, replace, knock the wedges together.


----------



## Mike Jordan (3 Apr 2017)

The easiest way would be to draw bore the mortise and tenon joints, no cramps will be needed. If you have sash clamps then make a clamping batten from scrap material, say 2 X 1 rip it to make a hook on one end which is hooked over the top of the frame and sits down each side of the frame (one each side) cut a few notches to allow the clamp to get a grip for a straight pull through the joints.


----------



## disco_monkey79 (3 Apr 2017)

Thanks all for the replies.

AndyT - unfortunately this piece is too big, and buying a board of the scale required would cost as much as buying bigger clamps. I'm certainly going to bear this in mind for a smaller scale application.

Mike - thanks for the suggestion, I'll get reading up


----------



## graduate_owner (3 Apr 2017)

Could you perhaps use Andy's idea but instead of forking out for a full size solid board you just knock up a flat frame of suitable size out if 3x2 say, and screw the blocks to that. A rectangular frame with ply corner bracing might do, then use the 3x2 for your next project or for workshop shelving etc. Might work?

K


----------



## xy mosian (3 Apr 2017)

If you have enough sash cramps, take the sliding foot off a couple and bolt them end to end.
If you only have a few sash cramps take the sliding foot off and extend with a piece of lumber which has a foot attached.
Or use longer timber with folding wedges as above.
Use the 'squaring' wedges, in line with the rail, and prevent it from sliding down the slopes with a g-cramps acros the sloping timber.

HTH
xy


----------



## disco_monkey79 (5 Apr 2017)

Thanks all for the replies. I'm being loaned some more clamps, so will use them, but will bear all the other suggestions in mind for the future.

Thanks again


----------



## Phil Pascoe (5 Apr 2017)

Hot melt glue. Stick your packing where you wish, do the job and take it off. Your perfect excuse to buy a glue gun.


----------



## disco_monkey79 (5 Apr 2017)

phil.p":126vqmzd said:


> Hot melt glue. Stick your packing where you wish, do the job and take it off. Your perfect excuse to buy a glue gun.



Like it!!! After all, it just wouldn't be right if I simply made something without having to spend more on new tools than it'd have cost to just buy the something in the first place...


----------



## Hornbeam (11 Apr 2017)

Instead of using a couple of small wedges I would use 1 large wedge at each end cut so the 2 outer faces are parallel. That way when you clamp it up you can adjust your clamp pressure to maintain the outer faces parallel which I find easier than measuring 2 different distances. You will probably still need to secure wedges with hot melt glue to stop them slipping during clamp up


----------



## disco_monkey79 (18 Apr 2017)

Thanks all for the replies. I dry-fitted and clamped the sides at the weekend, using wedges, and it worked well, albeit slow to get everything together.

Any idea how long you've got to assemble with PVA (Evostick brand) before it starts to go off? Is there a better alternative that'll give very strong joints (this is a chaise longue, so will have people repeatedly getting on and off), but will also give me enough time to assemble?

Or does PVA have a big enough window?

Thanks again.


----------



## AndyT (18 Apr 2017)

It should say on the bottle, but don't expect more than 10 minutes.
Do a dry run, get everything set up ready, clamps adjusted to size, packing blocks handy, recruit a helper if you can.

For alternatives, whatever Cascamite is called now will give you a little more time and is very permanent. You buy it as powder to mix with water to a creamy consistency.


----------



## disco_monkey79 (18 Apr 2017)

Thanks for the reply. I was reading various threads re cascamite. Some say it doesn;t flex, and so can be brittle. Is this correct? If so, I worry that it may not be suitable for this particular application? 30 mins+ would be lovely though!


----------



## Mike Jordan (18 Apr 2017)

Cascamite is my favourite glue for most uses. It has a long open time, cures to rock hard,and is totally waterproof. I buy it in 1.5 kilo containers from Adquik (about £25.00)


----------



## Phil Pascoe (18 Apr 2017)

UF adhesives don't suit some purposes, small stressed joints in a very dry environment being a major one - it tends to become very brittle and crack, so is not very good for chairs for instance. That's what I've found, anyway.


----------



## Mike Jordan (18 Apr 2017)

It certainly cures to rock hard but I have never experienced any of the problems you mention. It's certainly not suitable for use with the oily timbers such as teak and Iroko, the only suitable glue for these is epoxy resin systems.


----------

