# Butt hinges



## scooby (29 Nov 2006)

Is there a correct and incorrect way of fitting butt hinges? Probably seems an odd question but the joiners who taught me always said fit the leaf with 3 barrels to the door and the 2 barrel leaf to the frame. Just thought of it now for some reason (boredom?) does it make any difference which way they are fitted?


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## engineer one (30 Nov 2006)

orf the top of my bored head ain't it to do with lifting them off???
paul :wink:


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## MikeW (30 Nov 2006)

The ones I use it doesn't matter, just for the sake of consistency I place them all the same. 

Take care, Mike


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## jasonB (30 Nov 2006)

You sure you didn't read it in Wizers door thread, it came up yesturday.

Jason


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## beejay (30 Nov 2006)

The leaf with the 3 barrels should be fitted to the frame and the 2 to the door.
Also ensure that the cut out for the hinge is precise and takes the weight of the door when hung. ie the hinges rests on the bottom part of the recesses in the frame.
If fitted correctly, the hinges will support the door without the screws .
beejay


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## scooby (30 Nov 2006)

beejay":kyq9jsrp said:


> The leaf with the 3 barrels should be fitted to the frame and the 2 to the door.
> Also ensure that the cut out for the hinge is precise and takes the weight of the door when hung. ie the hinges rests on the bottom part of the recesses in the frame.
> If fitted correctly, the hinges will support the door without the screws .
> beejay



I was well taught at college and by 3 joiners, who drilled it into my head that the hinge mortices had to be neat and precise so theres no problem there. 
I was just curious as everyone I worked/work with put the 3 barelled on the door.


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## Scrums (30 Nov 2006)

OK guys, while there seems to be a flock of butt hinge experts around - for full size internal /external doors is there a specific positioning for hinges ?

I can make doors ok, but always make a hash of hanging them!

Chris.


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## LyNx (30 Nov 2006)

6" down 
9" up

middle hinge if required, personal preference.


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## scooby (30 Nov 2006)

Usually 7" down & 9" up. 

For 1 3/8" internals usually use a pair of 3" or 3 1/2" butts for hollow core doors. For heavier hardwood internals usually a pair and half of 3" or 3 1/2" butts.

For 1 3/4" externals and all fire doors always use a pair and half of 4" butts.

Usually try to get swaged hinges (if possible) so the hinge mortices don't have to be deeper than necessary.


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## superunknown (2 Dec 2006)

beejay":1vycwdi7 said:


> The leaf with the 3 barrels should be fitted to the frame and the 2 to the door.
> Also ensure that the cut out for the hinge is precise and takes the weight of the door when hung. ie the hinges rests on the bottom part of the recesses in the frame.
> If fitted correctly, the hinges will support the door without the screws .
> beejay



Thats the way I was tought, the other way round seems kinda wrong to me.

But I guess at the end of the day its does not make a lot of difference?


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## newt (7 Dec 2006)

Hi Folks, I am about to fit (tomorrow) several brass butt hinges on an Oak cabinet. The 2 sets of doors are centre opening which I guess makes it a bit more difficult. Also I want to overlap the centre opening with a rebate on each door (I guess there is a term for this style ) 

My first question is when you set the marking gauge to the width of the hinge leaf is it to the centre of the pivot or to where the pivot starts, the later seems right as you would have to cut a chamfer for the other option. My second question is when setting the marking gauge for the depth of the mortice should it be the thickness of the leaf plus half the gap when the leaves are parallel or just the thickness of the leaf, the latter will provide a gap between the stile and the door. The hinges are small 38mm. I will do some tests first but it would be nice to know would the experts do. Thanks


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## scooby (10 Dec 2006)

newt":1dua8kz8 said:


> My first question is when you set the marking gauge to the width of the hinge leaf is it to the centre of the pivot or to where the pivot starts, the later seems right as you would have to cut a chamfer for the other option. My second question is when setting the marking gauge for the depth of the mortice should it be the thickness of the leaf plus half the gap when the leaves are parallel or just the thickness of the leaf, the latter will provide a gap between the stile and the door. The hinges are small 38mm. I will do some tests first but it would be nice to know would the experts do. Thanks



You are correct, set the marking gauge to where the pivot starts. As for depth, if the hinge is swaged, setting the gauge to the thickness of the leaf. Pocketing this depth on the door and frame should result in a nice gap. 

If the hinge is not swaged set the gauge a little deeper. 

For marking hinge depths, I use an small offcut with a screw driven into it. Then, on a bench grinder, I grind the screw face down so the circumference is sharp. The screw can then be driven in or out to obtain the correct, operates like a wheel marking gauge. 

This website is pretty good for expaining the difference in swaged and non swaged hinges

http://www.acehardware.com/sm-framing-a ... 84020.html


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## newt (10 Dec 2006)

Thanks Scooby


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## mrbingley (10 Dec 2006)

Scooby,
That's a very handy link, cheers.

Chris.


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