# Newbie New Shed build - using fenceposts??



## Mitch (19 Aug 2016)

Hi,

I’m new to this site and to woodworking so please forgive any daft ideas or questions. I have read through various threads here ( many thanks to all who have contributed) but can’t find anything which covers my idea.

I’m about to start a new build shed but on a very limited budget so am salvaging wood and materials (or buying very cheaply) where I can.

I have a slabbed area at the bottom of my garden which meets fences on the sides and a brick wall on a diagonal at the bottom (as in diagram).






The slabs have been down for some years and haven’t shifted. I added a row onto a solid hardcore base 15 years ago and I think the rest are cemented onto a similar base (or an old concrete Anderson shelter or similar) so I am fairly confident it will provide a solid base for the shed.

I’ve read Mike G’s posts and intend to follow his plans for the base (course of bricks to form a dwarf wall) and intend to lay quarry tiles (already have) for the shed floor. 

I have the chance to get some 1m length 3in x3in fencepost offcuts cheaply and wondered whether I could use them for the shed walls.

The idea is to build a frame with 1m gaps between and then lay the offcuts horizontally between (as in diagram).

I haven’t seen anyone on else do this (and there’s probably a very good reason why not!) but my thinking is that this would form a 3in thick wooden wall which would not need further cladding outside or lining on the inside. 

My main concern would be whether this is a goer structurally (would this be too heavy for foundations?) and in terms of water ingress.

If OK structurally, would the best way be to use mortar (as I’ve seen on cordwood buildings) between the posts (A in diagram) or butt them as tightly as possible and use some form of sealant (PVA? Silicone?) between (C in diagram). In both cases I’d probably use some nails or screws to fix them the frame as well . An alternative, if weight is an issue, would be a kind of half and half structure (B in the diagram).



.

Also, would I need to use any particular wood treatment on outside?

Any comments on the principle or the detail would be much appreciated.
Many thanks
Mike


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## Paul200 (19 Aug 2016)

Welcome Mike

I've no experience of solid timber walls so will leave that for those that know. You've already laid your quarry tile floor. Did you use a damp proof membrane? Is there any insulation below the tiles? Both things would make your shed a more pleasant place to be


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## Mitch (19 Aug 2016)

Thanks, Paul

I haven't laid the quarry tiles yet. I meant I have already got them after I removed from a room in the house.

Yes, will insulate and DPM over concrete slab base.


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## Mitch (20 Aug 2016)

Thanks, Paul200 for pointing me in the right direction for search term ('solid timber wall') and I found your posts and other things on google.

Seems it is a common technique in central Europe and known as "Brettstapel"http://www.brettstapel.org/Brettstapel/What_is_it.html

I'm now thinking of doing this within a standard stud frame and nailed together pallet wood for infill.

Any thoughts from anyone would be welcome!

Mike


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## giantbeat (20 Aug 2016)

no idea what others will say about if its suitable but i love the idea of the fence posts, kind of like a fence post log cabin  you would need a lot of em though.


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## Mitch (20 Aug 2016)

thanks, giantbeat,

Seen 225 1m length fencepost offcuts for £75 on ebay which seems cheap. I would have to hire a van/courier to get them though as they are bit further than I'd want to do multiple trips in my hatchback.

Will ask around more locally to see if I can get them.


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## giantbeat (20 Aug 2016)

Mitch":eghyqf8m said:


> thanks, giantbeat,
> 
> Seen 225 1m length fencepost offcuts for £75 on ebay which seems cheap. I would have to hire a van/courier to get them though as they are bit further than I'd want to do multiple trips in my hatchback.
> 
> Will ask around more locally to see if I can get them.



that sounds like a decent deal.


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## Chrispy (20 Aug 2016)

I can't see that you have made any allowance for wood movement in your design.
Construction wise you have all the problems of a log build in that you must have about 2m of logs piled on on another when that lot gets damp it's going to expand maybe 40 or 50mm which if there is no allowance made for this will lift the roof off the vertical posts, and make it very difficult to line the inside with any insulation etc. 
Sorry but I think you need a better plan.


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## Mitch (21 Aug 2016)

Thank you for your reply.

No need to apologise. I ask my questions as a complete novice for precisely this kind of advice.

I mocked up a section on Brettstapel structure today using pallet wood and found it to be very heavy, would need lots of pallets (or the fencepost option) and would be more nail than wood in order to close all the gaps!

So, I've dumped that idea and looked at what I have available already.

I have plenty of 2x3s, easy access to pallets to break up for the wood, lots of foil backed 'bubblewrap' insulation and bitumen paint.

I mocked up a section today and it seemed reasonably easy to put together.




Is this broadly the right structure? I've used one nail for clad section as per Mike G's advice. I stapled the foil to the wood but could glue.
Should I use the bitumen paint anywhere? Would OSB br better for inside wall rather than pallet wood? 

Mike


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