# Moving the table saw in the workshop



## bp122 (16 Oct 2020)

Hey fellas!



I have an engineering problem at hand with my Axi Table saw.



At the moment, it sits (a bit lower than I would like) on a home made stand using 2x3s and a worktop offcut.

It is sturdy and has been levelled with some wedges so that it doesn’t rock on my seriously uneven concrete floor in the garage.



When I built the stand, I didn’t think to add wheels and now I am regretting it. I would kill to have the option of moving the damn thing to rejig the workshop layout, mainly to make room for the router table.



The table saw on its own, according to the online specs, weighs just shy of 80 kgs (it is the smallest one). I am a delicate flower (), so won’t even think of moving it on my own.

I don’t want to injure my wife especially when she takes care of our 6 month old monster all day!



The options I have thought of are:

Get those jackable (if that is a word) castors which can be screwed to the face of the legs of the stand so that I can jack the whole thing on wheels, move it and resettle (least aggravating solution I can think of but very expensive)
Buy a wheel kit for the table saw (nice to think about but my problem will still remain)
Make a dedicated Table saw workstation and maybe even incorporate the router in the extension (space saver in the long run but haven’t got the time to design it and build it especially when the list of things to fix / do around the house are mounting up, so very limited workshop time)
Attach two castors each to two pieces of 2x3 at either end go for the X configuration where attaching levers to both of them and arrange them in a cross so that the longer lever engages the shorter one and eventually jacks the whole setup whilst the longer lever is locked in position – Matthias Wendel and a few others have done similar things, some bandsaws come with metal versions of the same solution. (it is within my time constraints, I already have the castors and the timber so won’t cost anything extra but I lose the space under the worktop where some smaller bits are stored at the moment, and requires me to make lever locks, catches and also needs space for the large lever to swing- which isn’t ideal)
Sit and engineer a solution using car jacks (screw type or hydraulic) to have the TS temporarily off the stand and fix wheels on to the stand along with some threaded feet. (I only have one hydraulic jack and it is too big to sit inside the stand area to operate, also very risky as I don’t want an 80kg sharp edged tool to cause my head to make empty noises while I attempt this)


What would you do?



Of course, a solution which doesn’t put a dent on an empty wallet will be most desirable


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## Cabinetman (16 Oct 2020)

How about using two of the castors or better still wheels, on slightly protruding beams/arms, and then ring up sockets into which removable handles slide. So, you pick up the handles till the castors/wheels touch the floor and then wheel it, —think wheelbarrow. The length of the handles works like a lever and you should be able to move a relatively small 80 kg fairly easily.Ian. QED


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## clogs (16 Oct 2020)

how about sorting the floor first.....?
once done everything becomes easier.....
all my heavy machines get moved on a pallet truck....
all are on heavy gauge steel box frames with adjustable feet.....
could empty my entire shop in less than an hour......


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## bp122 (16 Oct 2020)

Cabinetman said:


> How about using two of the castors or better still wheels, on slightly protruding beams/arms, and then ring up sockets into which removable handles slide. So, you pick up the handles till the castors/wheels touch the floor and then wheel it, —think wheelbarrow. The length of the handles works like a lever and you should be able to move a relatively small 80 kg fairly easily.Ian. QED


I think that is a great idea. Should be fairly simple to rig up. You are right though, wheels are better than castors here as the latter might go all wibbly wobbly on me.


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## toolsntat (16 Oct 2020)

Axle and nylon wheels mounted low down work a treat on this very heavy Startrite.
This actually lives on the 2 wheels.
With dolly or long "wheelbarrow" handles yours should be a doddle to move.

Cheers Andy









Startrite bandsaw wheel idea.


I thought I would share with you how I fitted an axle and wheels on my Startrite bandsaw. Using the 2 bolt down holes a coach bolt was bent to form a hook to hold the 19mm axle. A couple of suitable wheels held on with jubilee clips. I put a bit of angle bracket on the other end and use a dolly...




www.ukworkshop.co.uk


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## bp122 (16 Oct 2020)

frank horton said:


> how about sorting the floor first.....?
> once done everything becomes easier.....
> all my heavy machines get moved on a pallet truck....
> all are on heavy gauge steel box frames with adjustable feet.....
> could empty my entire shop in less than an hour......



That sounds great, but I think that is a job and a half at this stage. Apart from my workbench, table saw, a rubbish load of timber and all my tools, there is a washing machine and a tumble dryer in there. Moving all that or to sort the floor when the weather turns bad so quickly these days, not to mention, to do all that, I will need a pallet truck which I can't store. 

Although just imagining nice even floor, definitely sounds nice. That could be my next major garage upgrade. Would you know how I could go about that? I'd love the info.


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## Cabinetman (16 Oct 2020)

frank horton said:


> how about sorting the floor first.....?
> once done everything becomes easier.....
> all my heavy machines get moved on a pallet truck....
> all are on heavy gauge steel box frames with adjustable feet.....
> could empty my entire shop in less than an hour......


 Just hope to goodness you’ve got that pallet truck chained up well Frank, you wouldn’t want anybody to empty your workshop in less than an hour would you!


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## Cabinetman (16 Oct 2020)

The easiest way to level up your floor is to put a strip of wood right across the middle but it must be extremely level and then pour self-levelling compound (up to that level,) into the half of the workshop that you have emptied. Then repeat . Frank has done a piece about this somewhere else I read a few days ago. Ian


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## Mike Jordan (16 Oct 2020)

This works nicely to move my mortiser. Minimum cost if you can access a welding machine. It was a struggle to get.the machine in there though. 
The front castors are,swivel and the back ones fixed.


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## pe2dave (16 Oct 2020)

I think your idea of 'sorting it' (after lifting off the saw) is right?
Put out a cry locally for 3 strong lads - and have faith in your neighbours?
Get ready to put on the casters (locking) so you can do the job quickly, then ask them back in ? an hour?
I'd suggest offering them something - though many will refuse.


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## TheUnicorn (16 Oct 2020)

I use the wheelbarrow method others have mentioned, on a workbench, works OK, but you are tilting the table so you couldn't, for instance, leave a project glueing up. Not an issue for a table saw of course (unless you really abuse the thing), but might be a consideration for storage below it. Saw this on you tube and thought it seemed like something I might try in the future.  I think not having the wheels in the floor the whole time gives a bit more stability (wedgable for uneven floors) and must be easier for the castors


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## pe2dave (16 Oct 2020)

Cabinetman said:


> The easiest way to level up your floor is to put a strip of wood right across the middle but it must be extremely level and then pour self-levelling compound (up to that level,) into the half of the workshop that you have emptied. Then repeat . Frank has done a piece about this somewhere else I read a few days ago. Ian



Doesn't that require a clear floor? Not practical for some (me included)
One off effort, install lockable castors and that's it.


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## sometimewoodworker (16 Oct 2020)

bp122 said:


> Attach two castors each to two pieces of 2x3 at either end go for the X configuration where attaching levers to both of them and arrange them in a cross so that the longer lever engages the shorter one and eventually jacks the whole setup whilst the longer lever is locked in position – Matthias Wendel and a few others have done similar things,


You may have missed the video in which Matthias Wendel made a second bench for metal working. He designed it so that 2 4 wheeled dollies fit under it then a couple of 2x4s fit on top of the dollies, they have long handles on them so you can turn them from flat by 90 degrees lifting the bench onto the wheeled dollies so it can be moved.

Nothing about the wheels is attached to the bench so you loose no space and can use the dollies to move as many benches/machines as you like.


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## akirk (16 Oct 2020)

In my youth - many years ago, I had a laser printer which weighed 80kg (also had an RRP of over £6,000!) - I could lift that myself, and didn't damage my back - it used to go from my parents' house to digs at uni and back every term... So I would eat some wheatabix and crack on!


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## Cabinetman (16 Oct 2020)

Pe2dave, doesn’t that require a clear floor? Well that’s why you do it in 2 halves, you shift everything to one end before you start. Yes it’s a lot of shifting but you’d have to do that anyway if you wanted to re-floor.
Also lockable castors aren’t much good if only three of them are touching the floor haha


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## TheUnicorn (16 Oct 2020)

re. a new floor, I would have thought within reason you could pour in as many sections as you require. however, if you can find a way to do it, maybe clear everything to a storage unit or a friends garage for a few days, it's got to be easier to do it all in one hit. I hate jobs that go on too long, especially if they get in the way of other things as would be the case with a workshop refloor in sections. probably a summer job really


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## toolsntat (16 Oct 2020)

Some valuable information on floor leveling here...
Andy









Self levelling compound on a tamped concrete garage floor


I'm contemplating grasping the nettle and to try to put a smooth surface on an existing tamped concrete floor in my garage. The garage is attached to our house, has a damp course and I also think there will be a damp proof membrane under the floor slab as I have no issues with damp. The main...




www.ukworkshop.co.uk


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## Sideways (16 Oct 2020)

Levers and rollers. Even scraps of copper plumbing would do for 80Kg.
Tilt the machine side to side so you only need to lift 40Kg at a time and kick progressively thicker rollers or blocks under until you have it high enough for a decently thick lever.
2 of us moved my 750Kg saw with levers and rollers. You should easily manage 80Kg on your own with a little planning.


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## Sideways (16 Oct 2020)

How about a bit of black steel channel, castors for mobility and threaded rod to take the load off them once the saw is in position ?
I put blocks down to protect the floor from the bolts and raise each corner at a time with a jack so the screws are never really turned under load.


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## bp122 (16 Oct 2020)

Cheers for the responses fellas, it is very much appreciated. 




Mike Jordan said:


> This works nicely to move my mortiser. Minimum cost if you can access a welding machine. It was a struggle to get.the machine in there though.
> The front castors are,swivel and the back ones fixed.View attachment 94344
> View attachment 94345


That is indeed a neat solution, but as you mentioned I still have to get the stand with the TS on it inside the thing.



akirk said:


> In my youth - many years ago, I had a laser printer which weighed 80kg (also had an RRP of over £6,000!) - I could lift that myself, and didn't damage my back - it used to go from my parents' house to digs at uni and back every term... So I would eat some wheatabix and crack on!


I like your thinking, but I doubt any amount of Weetabix is going to mend my injured shoulder 



pe2dave said:


> Doesn't that require a clear floor? Not practical for some (me included)
> One off effort, install lockable castors and that's it.



That will be my cheat code in the end, if I can't sort it any other way.



toolsntat said:


> Some valuable information on floor leveling here...
> Andy
> 
> 
> ...



That is excellent info there. Will revisit it if and when I get to sorting my garage floor. For the moment though, it is definitely not in any immediate plans. Cheers anyway mate.



Sideways said:


> How about a bit of black steel channel, castors for mobility and threaded rod to take the load off them once the saw is in position ?
> I put blocks down to protect the floor from the bolts and raise each corner at a time with a jack so the screws are never really turned under load.
> View attachment 94364


You see, I was sketching something very similar to this on my notepad yesterday. I have some long M12 bolts I got from work when they were being thrown in the bin, have some chunky long hex nuts to go with them as well. My idea was to have the nuts with a washer each jack the corners up, keeping the stud / bolt stationary - a bit like the scaffolding screws.


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## DBT85 (17 Oct 2020)

I'd make a dolly you can shove under it. 80kg is only really 40kg to lift as you'd only lift one side at a time and a 40kg deadlift with a foot nudge to move the dolly should be doable for just about any adult without other conditions. Even if you only got the dolly under one side, a 40kg lift and steer should be OK.

That way you can move it easy enough and pop it back down again. 

Plus the dolly can be used for other things when not moving your saw around 3 times a year.

Natually remember that if you want to raise one side up by 100mm, lift the other side up by 50mm and nudge something under it first. Can be done repeatedly if needed.


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## Sideways (17 Oct 2020)

One other idea. 
B&Q sell tiny plastic versions of machine skates. Bright yellow and black. Under £20 for a 4 pack the last time I looked.
They are intended to make it easier to move fridges, washing machines and the like but I pushed a 300lb load the length of the garage on a set with no obvious damage the other day.


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## Vinn (17 Oct 2020)

I went for the 'wheelbarrow' approach mentioned above .

Details here: Kity 419 Tablesaw – Further Mods


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## TheUnicorn (17 Oct 2020)

re. wheelbarrow approach - certainly a simple and effective way of doing this for occasional moves


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## bp122 (20 Oct 2020)

I think the wheelbarrow approach has the best merits in terms of simplicity and cost effectiveness, and certainly has been vouched for by many here.

Although I probably should have mentioned, the table saw is just sitting in the stand, it is not fastened to it, so I am a little bit worried about tilting it too far.


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## TheUnicorn (20 Oct 2020)

bp122 said:


> I think the wheelbarrow approach has the best merits in terms of simplicity and cost effectiveness, and certainly has been vouched for by many here.
> 
> Although I probably should have mentioned, the take saw is just sitting in the stand, it is not fastened to it, so I am a little bit worried about tilting it too far.


I would certainly look at attaching the top, maybe just a ratchet strap when it is moved, better still attach is properly if possible, I assume there are some options for attachment on the saw?


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## Terrytpot (17 Nov 2020)

I went down the dolly route for my Meddings pillar drill as I didn’t want it relying on a castor lock to hold it still during use and the fact that I can have a fairly large skate to use elsewhere too if needed. Because the footprint of a pillar drill is fairly small (in industrial settings they’re generally bolted to the floor) I gave mine a slightly larger false footprint as can be seen in the attached clip


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