# Laminating Blanks



## Wood spoiler (13 Oct 2010)

Hi
Bearing in mind my being new to turning, my idea is to glue layers of blank together and then turn the bowl etc. to get the effects of bands of different colour woods and grains within a bowl....

No doubt this is not an original idea, but bearing in mind the stresses in the wood when turning, etc does it work? Is there a size upto which it would work but thereafter the glue would wave a white flag? What glue should I use and even how long should it cure for?
All this any other thoughts on the process would be appreciated, even if it is to tell me it won't work. 

I would love to hear of experiences of others.
I have looked on interweb without any success, but then if it is known under a specific name, I havn't even managed to find that out.
:?:


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## loz (13 Oct 2010)

Something like the board from board maybe ?

have a look here http://craobhcuigdeag.org/?page_id=31


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## Bodrighy (13 Oct 2010)

This is an area of turning that some of us haven't got the patience for but there are those on here who do it. There are a load of fantastic examples of the work from the basic to the extreme. There are a couple of tutorials here if you want to have a look.

Pete


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## loz (13 Oct 2010)

Some nice projects in there Pete.


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## CHJ (13 Oct 2010)

This give you some ideas?





(Click Picture for more examples)

Make sure all wood is very dry, any drying shrinkage will affect the joints.
PVA will flex with movement but join ridges can be felt after time/movement as the glue creeps
Casamite does nor creep and gives good thin joint but will let go if there is any major stress movement due to wood drying.

CA works well on most common english woods, not always sound on oily woods.


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## CHJ (13 Oct 2010)

________

________This is another method done on the Lathe In this instance done with CA, if you use PVA you need to leave tailstock clamp in place overnight.

________
________Some more segment ideas, If you can get to grips with this many angles and close joints you will be well on the way to knowing what's needed.________
________



________I tend to do a whole batch of similar segments whilst the machines are set up, then it's just a case of assembling them in sets and gluing up.
________



________Once glue is set they are rough turned to neaten & bored near size before setting aside to allow wood moisture levels to equalise.


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## Wood spoiler (13 Oct 2010)

Thanks guys
That's blown me away from my modest plans to seeing what can be done.

I guess the answer is YES - now what do I want to achieve!

How long do you leave the assembled blank between glueing and turning?

I particularly like the segmented bowls. In a simpler form is where my thoughts were - but it has set the grey cells running
Cheers 

Colin


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## CHJ (13 Oct 2010)

Wood spoiler":2p31dq8n said:


> How long do you leave the assembled blank between glueing and turning?


At least the cure time (not drying time), of the adhesive you choose.

If you have any doubts about the woods used being at different moisture levels I would advise leaving for a few days at least in an indoor location, there will of course be some added moisture in the wood joint interface area from the adhesive anyway. This can result in movement about a joint if you generate warmth from tooling of over enthusiastic sanding. 

Agreed very slight, but enough to be felt when sliding a finger over the joint, usually a couple of days or so after it's finished.


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## Wood spoiler (14 Oct 2010)

CHJ
Thanks so much for all the info on this topic. I have been looking again at the bits you provided about segmented bowls, which I think is closer to my goal.
Can you just indulge me a bit further.
Having created the segmented rings do you then mount onto solid one piece blank to complete or do you add multiple layers including into the base making a segmented base as well?
thanks
Colin


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## CHJ (14 Oct 2010)

Colin, if you have a look at the examples on this page you will see that I added segmented rings to a solid base and top ring, adds strength for starters, if you try to segment a base you will find it very difficult to get an absolute perfect match in the centre, it's ok for lids etc. where you can hide any central imperfections with a hole for a knob.

More shots of these can be seen in this thread on this page and nearby ones.

Have a look at posts by Ad de Crom, this and several others are good examples, he uses a slightly differing method to me and I seem to remember there is a How To somewhere amongst his posts.


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## Wood spoiler (14 Oct 2010)

Thanks Chas

Once I have had a go I will post my results

regards

Colin


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