# Another new toy.



## powertools

After a journey that should have taken no more than 1 and a 1/2 hours taking nearly 4 hours I finally arrived home with this.

it is a Hobbies A1 fret saw in fair condition but needs a good clean and new belt.


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## martinka

Very nice, PT. I hope you don't mind if I pester you for lots of close up photos for mine?


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## powertools

It was you that started me on all this collecting lark.
I will help in any way I can.
I like the look of the green one.


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## martinka

I'm having to keep these down the inspection pit in my garage as the extent of my yard is what you can see in the photo. I'll only be able to work on one at a time, so I will do the green one first. I had some old Hobbies Catalogues in PDF format but I am beginning to think they disappeared into the ether when my HDD packed up, and no backup, of course, so I am looking for info now. I have most of the parts though, it's just a matter of figuring out how they go together. And the chap gave me enough new belt for both machines.

Martin.


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## powertools

Perhaps we should turn this into a joint restoration WIP thread but I should point out that my workshop time is limited at the moment and the budget
for the job is zero and I am already into an overspent of £7 having ordered a new belt.
When I got home yesterday all I did was take the picture and put the saw into the workshop. I have given it the once over this morning and the work it needs other than the belt will be a repaint and 2 new wooden arms making for it.
The top arm in particular is bent downwards and even like this the metal strap that goes over the top to stop that happening still has no tension in it so something needs sorting there.
Other than that the machine is complete in every way and if you need pictures of any particular part just ask.


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## martinka

I would really appreciate photos of the back and front of the arms, both on top and underneath. That way I could see straight away whether anything is missing, although the chap who gave me the saws was obviously well up on them and was sorting out parts for me. I suspect the other saw, the rusty one, is the same except for the frame, but it's very rusty and the arms are rotten so with my eyesight, it's difficult to see what's what until it is apart.
I'm glad you mentioned WIP as I have only taken the one photo and I have already freed off the top spindle and small pulley of the rusty one - and not a drop of WD40 to be seen.  
I just found a 1954 Hobbies Weekly on t'internet, and the A1 was £7-19-6d. Expensive saw!


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## powertools

Pictures that may help

Rear of the arms.






Front of the arms with the table removed.







As I said I am happy that we both add our wip pictures to this thread if you want but your progress may be a lot faster than mine and I am not going to spend much on mine I will just use materials I already have kicking around the workshop.


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## powertools

A picture to compare the A1 and the Victory saws.






I actually think that I prefer the A1. The Victory is a much better made machine but you need legs like a weightlifter to operate it but I will restore it after I have done the A1.


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## martinka

Thanks for the photos. I was surprised how small the saws actually are, your Victory looked enormous when I first saw the ad for it.
One thing my rusty one has that the others don't appear to have is a blower. I hope I can find some details out about this one.
Don't expect me galloping ahead with restoration, I have had a grinder rest in the pipeline which I began cutting the pieces for about 2 years ago, and I recently finished a travelling steady for my lathe that I started about 1997. As for obtaining parts, I don't drive, so it'd be quickest for me to plant a tree and grow the wood for the arms, except I don't have a yard/garden.


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## Bryan Bennett

Very interesting photos of the old machines that where around when I first bought my copy of Hobbies Weekly.I cut my first project with the hand fretsaw.Bought the Hegner many years later,and only used it regular of the past 10 years.Thank you lads for the memories. =D> 

Bryan


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## martinka

Here's a bit of reminiscing for you, Bryan. 
http://www.scribd.com/doc/72567964/Hobbies-Weekly-3048-Mar-31-1954


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## Dalboy

Some great looking machines I am sure they will be fantastic when they are all restored. Just out of interest will they take a pinless blade


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## martinka

I haven't looked at the blade clamps on mine yet, in fact I don't even know if I have got any, but I imagine they can easily be adapted to take either.

Martin.


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## ChrisR

Martin and Powertools.

Nice looking saws, brings back happy childhood memories for me which is long ago, particularly the Hobbies model.

Its your saws and you must restore to the level you are happy with, the reason I say this, I used to have vintage OC engines, which I used to take and exhibit at steam rallies, the strong feeling was, that the bright and expertly painted engines were very nice and a credit to their owners/custodians, but their was nothing better than seeing an engine in its working clothes, (ie the condition it was in when earning its living).
The condition of mine ?, a cross between the two.

You lucky boys, if I keep looking I may find one some day. :mrgreen: 

Take care.

Chris R.


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## martinka

Chris, I was surprised to find how many there are around and for sale. I did a search a few days ago and found at least 3 that had recently sold for less than £30, and looked to be in working condition. It would have been cheaper for me to buy a good working one than pay for the petrol on Saturday to pick these two up, but nowhere as much fun. 

I agree with you on the looks of old tools and machinery, but when you have one in the state one of mine is in, it tends to dictate its own finish. I have already promised this one to someone who cuts name plaques at the seaside for a living, but told him not to expect it until next year.

Martin.


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## ChrisR

Martin.

I would think that cutting name plaques at the seaside using an original Hobbies Saw, would draw in the public, then make the sale of a plaque, lovely jubbly, this time next year we will be millionaires.
Heard that before some ware.

On a completely separate note, last year my brother-in-law’s friend who is a (GP), made a couple of visits to my workshop, to try out using a scroll saw, as he wanted to cut jigsaws using family photos, and yes I managed to convert him, he purchased a saw from Axminster, I was unable to convince him to buy a Hegner, as he did not want to invest that sort of money, (GP’s don’t earn much). :roll: 

He got the idea for cutting these jigsaws, from a friend of his in France who does it for a living, using a foot treadle saw, apparently he had a go with this treadle saw, and found it hard work and difficult to hold a good cut line, while moving his feet up and down at the same time, but said it was a good cardiac vascular work out.
So if your friend is unable to make a living at the seaside cutting plaques, maybe you could rent out the saw as a fitness machine, just a thought, and remember this advice came from a (GP). :!: 

If they are around, I must actively keep an eye out, if I did obtain one, it would be for decoration only, maybe in the hallway if the long haired boss would allow it. :wink: I would not be able to use it as due to (MS) I am unable to lift my right leg up and down.

Take care.

Chris R.


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## powertools

My A1 saw in it's present condition is un usable . The reason I purchased it was because it was all there and would make a nice restoration project.
The main reasons of concern are the wooden arms are bent inwards and the steel straps that should stop this happening are loose even though the adjustment on them is at it's full extent. In this state it is impossible to get any tension on the blade.
My first thought was to shorten the straps and bring the arms back to straight however I have also noticed a small crack in the top arm so have decided to make new arms and modify the supports to wire rods much the same as are on the Victory saw.
The other problem is that the slot in the table is now a rather large hole where it has been cut into many times because the clamp that holds the table in place is a crude affair and will also need modifying. 
With having to strip the saw down so much to do the repairs I will repaint it but if there was a concours for fretsaws I would not expect mine to win.
If there is any interest I will show WIP photos.
At the end of the day these saws have little value whatever their condition but the value is in the pleasure of making an old machine usable again.


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## martinka

Chris, the chap cutting name plaques at the seaside is already make a living at it and has been for some years. I've only spoken to him a couple of times, but we were chatting in the sun for 3 hours yesterday. My O/H phoned me to let me know my dinner was ready and I was 80 miles away in Whitby talking about scroll saws, philosophy, interpreting dreams, buying a house in the Whitby area and life in general. He's an entertaining chap. 

PT, the gent I got my saws off told me to watch out for a Hobbies catalogue, I think he said in the autumn, which contains some of the smaller scroll saw parts. I intended making some parts for the unknown saw, but if they are cheap enough I might buy them instead.


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## martinka

After cleaning rust and flaking paint off the rusty scroll saw, I found out that that it is also an A1, although it looks to be a much earlier model that the green one. It's now completely in bits. I made enquiries about having the frame blasted and possibly powder coated but decided I don't want to spend anywhere near that much on it. I know there will be sharp intakes of breath at the mention of powder coating on something this old, but it would have covered two bits of not so brilliant cast iron welding, though I can hopefully grind them down without losing too much strength. Anyway it's a matter of getting a working saw, not a concours restoration. I'll need to replace a lot of the small parts and find some coach bolts as the threads have rusted away on most of them. All the wood is rotten but a pal has got some oak which will hopefully do, though I don't know how I will get it down from 1" thick to 5/8" thick.

Photos as I got it and as it is now - and as it's likely to remain for some time. :mrgreen:


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## powertools

I had no idea that you were going to tackle the rusty one first, you are well up for a challenge.
It is an interesting saw and is one of the early A1 saws that Hobbies introduced in around 1910 and will be well worth the effort.
I have removed the top from the stand of mine and striped the top down I don't need to strip the stand down as the condition is not as bad as yours.
Photos to follow at the weekend.


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## martinka

PT, I am hoping I have enough parts to bolt the green one together so that it can be used, hence tackling the rusty one first. I'm already fed up of scraping rust off. The casting of the legs and top is terribly rough on the inside so it is very difficult to clean. I'm afraid it's going to be a matter of getting it clean and dry and using lots of smooth Hammerite. I can't really afford to have it blasted and I get a lot of pain in my hands which cuts down on the time I can spend on it in one go. I've got a pal looking out for a needle scaler for my compressor and I'm also considering trying electrolysis rust removal, but I can only work inside the garage, so it's a bit dangerous. Still, it's not a race so I can take my time coming up with a solution..


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## Dalboy

Small parts can be cleaned with citric acid which can be brought from the chemist. And when finished with it it can be put down the drain


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## martinka

Dalboy":10c898lk said:


> Small parts can be cleaned with citric acid which can be brought from the chemist. And when finished with it it can be put down the drain



How effective is it? I wish it were the small parts that's the problem, but I have an 8" wire wheel that makes a nice job of those. Makes a good job of my finger ends at times too, if I'm too lazy to make a jig to hold the parts. The legs, the treadle and the top bar are the real problem.


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## Dalboy

I found it very good on some tools I got. It will not remove heavy rust, and once you have got the rust off it is important to dry everything well and prime or paint as soon as posibble afterwards. You buy the citric acid in dry form and mix with water. Citric acid is used in jam making, you may be asked what you want it for.


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## powertools

Quick update.
The main metal work on my machine is not in too bad condition so I will approach the rebuild in 2 separate stages.
The biggest problem I have is the arms are bent and the metal straps that should stop this from happening are useless and the crude adjustment is at it,s full extent.
I have had a large chunk of what I think is beech for some time and I have cut a slice from it that will be enough to make 2 new arms.
I have tried to show the arms and the beech in the poor quality photo.
It is my intention to then come up with a better way of stopping the arms from bending when trying to tension the blade.
This project is not to restore the saw to what it was when it was made but to try and improve it. 







The main metal work will be finished in blue smothrite because I like the colour and I have enough to do the job.


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## martinka

Been doing a bit of cleaning up and painting and made an arm from treadle to lower pulley. No idea what the wood is, it's from an old kitchen cupboard door. Had to cut it with the circular saw as I couldn't cut it straight enough with the scroll saw.
37C here in the garage soI'm dribbling sweat all over the paint. :mrgreen:


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## powertools

That is good progress.
I have made the new arms for mine.
They are a bit thicker and not as tapered as the originals I have included an original in the picture for comparison.
I have not drilled the holes yet because I want to replace the original roofing bolts that held it together with something more suitable and will then drill the arms to suit the new bolts.


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## martinka

I suppose there's chance these old kitchen unit doors could be beech, but I don't know one type of wood from the next. It feels strong, so I am hoping I have some more pieces down the cellar that are big enough for the arms. I've just painted the first coat of red smooth Hammerite on the lower pulley but when I came to clean the brush with Hammerite thinners, it won't touch it. Trust me to use my only good brush this time. I generally use Poundland brushes for Hammerite and throw them away


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## martinka

I decided to paint the pulleys bright orange to match my bike and the Hegner. :mrgreen: Not really, they are actually bright red. The strip lights probably make them look orange.
I can't get the pulleys to line up, no matter what I try, yet everything appears to be in line until I install the pulleys. I'll have to take it apart again and check to see if there is any twist in the legs.


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## martinka

Dunno what to do about the pulleys being out of line. I'm beginning to think it may be made up of parts from different versions of the A1 model. The parts are like a jigsaw in that they can only fit together one way, and you can see from the photo that the top pulley is way over to the right. In fact the top of the right leg has had a piece cut out of it where the belt would run, except the belt still hits the leg. It's not quite as bad as it looks in the photo, but it's still a good 10mm out of line. I could possibly alter the top plate where the arm/table/pulley bracket sits, but it would also mean drilling another hole. I think I might put this 'restoration' to one side for the time being and concentrate on the newer saw.


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## Dalboy

Martin I have a friend that has two hobbies machines. I should be seeing him within the next week or two. I will have a look at his machines if he take them to the rally as he puts them on display. If he has got them I will have a look and take some photo's if that is of any help


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## martinka

Yes please, Dalboy, that would be very much appreciated.
Martin.


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## powertools

My A1 is the same as your green one so I assume that because you have both models they must be different. The base of mine is still complete and I will take pictures if you want me to but they will only show what you can already see on your other saw.
It,s hard to tell from your picture but it looks as if the 2 supports that the shaft runs through are closer together on the old saw perhaps the small pulley should be the other way round and on the other side of the bracket, could also be that the legs of the base are out of line and therefore putting the large pulley out of line. 
As you will already know there is not much precision about these machines 

I haven't done anything to mine since making the new arms it has been to hot and not much fun being in the workshop.


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## martinka

PT, according to the info I have, which is just old pic's really, there were a number of changes over the years for the A1 model, hence me wondering if it's a hybrid. If you look at the bracket for the top pulley, you can see that the left side of the pulley bracket is in line with the lower pulley. I can't see any way to alter this without physically altering one or more parts. Putting the pulley on the other side of the bracket puts it even further out of line, but anyway, you can tell from the corrosion where the parts have spent their life.  I know there's no great precision with castings, but there are bits (technical word) that locate the parts so that they can only go in one place, at least for the major parts. I've got it apart at the moment but I'll have another look tomorrow. Supposed to be steam rallying today but the overnight rain may have put paid to that. I have very little feeling in my feet so walking around on wet grass can be a bit precarious.

Martin.


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## martinka

I decided to have a go at electrolytic derusting using washing soda, having seen it on youtube. To try it out I used the top pulley and spindle off the newer A1. The pulley was rusted solid to the spindle and the grubscrew was rusted in. Someone had already had a go at freeing the grubscrew but it was still stuck. A 99p bucket, a £1.50ish bag of washing soda, 1.5 gallons of water, a piece of old thin plate I had lying around and a battery charger were all I needed. I set it up and within minutes it was bubbling away. I left it about 3 or 4 hours, then took it out and gave it a quick brush in clean water, dried it off and coated it in Liberon wax to stop it rusting again. The grub screw came out without too much trouble and the pulley came off by hand. To be honest, I reckon I was just lucky there. Photo's of the cleaned up spindle and the sacrificial piece of metal after the horrible black gunge was cleaned off.


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## Dalboy

Martin that looks very impressive. Would you have a link to that on u tube.
Also an apology I have just got back from a weekend away and the friend I was going to see about the two saws he had was not at the show as he had just come out of hospital, so sorry no photo's unfortunately I only ever see him at the steam rallies I go to.


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## martinka

No problem, Dalboy, I'd forgotten anyway. :mrgreen: 

Click this when you have lots of spare time. 

Martin.


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## scrimper

martinka":2m7bwutm said:


> Click this when you have lots of spare time.
> 
> Martin.



Some interesting stuff in that link.


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## Akela

Hi, I am a new member and am after some help. I am currently renovating a Hobbies A1 fretsaw that I inherited many years ago from my Grandad, it has been in the garden for a number of years and I have had to strip it right back and re build it. I have used all the original parts although due to the rust pitting on the table and the other plated parts these have now been painted. My problem is that I am missing the top blade clamp mechanism, I intend to make a new one copying the design of the lower clamp and have seen pictures of the tensioning cam but wondered if anyone could give me the dimensions to enable me to get the correct length and correct shape of cam?


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## powertools

Hi. Akela and welcome.
This is a picture of the A1 top clamp assembly.






The round part is 20mm diameter, the lever sticks out from it by 40mm and the 2 parts that hold the blade are 60mm long.
The round part has a notch in it to lock it in the tensioned position by engaging into the flat plate.


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## Akela

Thanks, I have the top plate and can copy the clamping assembly from the bottom but needed to get the dimensions for the other bits, I will now be able to fabricate the new parts.
I have been meaning to re-furbish the fretsaw for years but never got round to it, what gave me the final push was that I am making a 1:24 scale model narrowboat and thought that the Hobbies fretsaw would give me a better finish than using a hand fretsaw.
My Grandad was a clockmaker and I remember him using it to make clock hands when I was a kid (about 40 years ago).

Thanks again, I will post a picture once I have completed my renovation.


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## powertools

No problem.
Don't forget that the 2 parts that drop down from the round bit to clamp the blade are loosely fixed to the round bit but are off centre to give a cam effect.
I am sure that we would like to see pictures at all stages of your restoration as well as your model narrowboat, that could be very interesting and you might like to think about starting a thread about that on it's own it sounds like an interesting project that many members would like to see.


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## martinka

The more photos I see, the more parts I realise are missing from my saws. Some of the parts are going to be difficult to make, if at all, without detailed measurements. I'm hoping Hobbies will be able to supply some bits, especially the stamped/pressed parts.

Martin.


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## AndyT

I'm pretty sure that Hobbies used some of the same parts on their hand fretsaws - which do turn up on ebay quite frequently for not very much. I think Bugbear has some more detailed information and may be able to help with specifics.


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## powertools

martinka":2hlyrhuj said:


> The more photos I see, the more parts I realise are missing from my saws. Some of the parts are going to be difficult to make, if at all, without detailed measurements. I'm hoping Hobbies will be able to supply some bits, especially the stamped/pressed parts.
> 
> Martin.



As I reassemble my saw I intend to make an accurate detailed parts list for future reference and to help others who may do the same in the future. AndyT thinks that Bugbear already has this information so he may be able to help quicker than me.

If you want me to take pictures of any parts and give accurate dimensions I am more than happy to do that.


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## martinka

Bad news. I just got an email from Hobbies to say that no spares are available.

Let this be a lesson - don't buy one of these saws when it has any of the metal parts missing. The wooden arms can easily be made, and I need three of those, but I have so many metal parts missing that I'm sure I can't get either of the saws working. I can possibly make some parts but they will look nothing like the stamped out originals.

This and the fact I started breaking blades on the Hegner again last night means I might just bin the lot and take up stamp collecting instead. :evil: 

Martin.


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## scrimper

martinka":2er0lsvc said:


> Bad news. I just got an email from Hobbies to say that no spares are available.



In fairness to the present day Hobbies company they never actually made treadle fretsaws, the original Hobbies company that made them ceased trading in 1968, the present day Hobbies company was started when an ex sales director of the old Hobbies company commenced trading under a different name changing it to Hobbies around 1978, the new Hobbies did sell some fret machines but they never manufactured them.

Your best bet is to look out for another machine and try to make one good one out of the two.

OTOH stamp collecting creates a lot less dust!


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## martinka

scrimper":317k8rwv said:


> martinka":317k8rwv said:
> 
> 
> 
> Bad news. I just got an email from Hobbies to say that no spares are available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fairness to the present day Hobbies company they never actually made treadle fretsaws, the original Hobbies company that made them ceased trading in 1968, the present day Hobbies company was started when an ex sales director of the old Hobbies company commenced trading under a different name changing it to Hobbies around 1978, the new Hobbies did sell some fret machines but they never manufactured them.
> 
> Your best bet is to look out for another machine and try to make one good one out of the two.
> 
> OTOH stamp collecting creates a lot less dust!
Click to expand...

The reason I emailed Hobbies is because the chap I got my saws from mentioned a catalogue with parts for these saws. Unfortunately I wasn't taking as much notice as I should have and he could have been talking about a 100 year old catalogue for all I know. :mrgreen:
As for looking out for another saw, I already have two, and don't really have the space for these, never mind another. I am having to store them down the inspection pit in my garage which is going to cause fun when I have a car to work on. I am going to concentrate on the newer one as the frame is OK, whereas the older one has problems with alignment and has been welded in two places. Maybe the best idea would be to bin these two and look for a working one as there seems to be quite a few around.

Martin.


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## powertools

I haven't done any work on the lower section of my saw yet as I think that will all be easy, but I have taken the top section apart and that is where all the small metal parts are.
Having made new arms I will rebuild my saw using the original metal parts but to be honest most of them are very basic and would be easy to reproduce the only one that would be hard to make the same as the original is the pivot for the arms as shown in the photo but it would not be difficult to make something that does the job but may look different. 







If I didn't have the original parts for the blade clamping at the front of the arms I would use modern blade clamps and just make the arms to suit in truth the saw would probably be better for it.


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## richard56

Please can you tell me would two identical saws to these fit in a Renault Scenic?
Thanks
Rich


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## martinka

I've never been in a Scenic but mine came home in a 1998 Honda Civic hatchback which doesn't have much space in the back. You'll probably need to put the rear seats down but I think you will have plenty of room

Martin.


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## scrimper

richard56":u03ifl15 said:


> Please can you tell me would two identical saws to these fit in a Renault Scenic?
> Thanks
> Rich



Easily! In any case you can just undo one nut and bolt and separate the top from the leg section.


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## martinka

It turns out I have the pivots for the arms, albeit extremely rusty and looking nowhere as substantial as the one in your photo. I'll get them in my makeshift deruster in the next few days and see what they come out like. I discovered some more bits and with the help of Bugbear I've found out what they are for. These bits were in a bag inside a bag and very nearly got thrown out


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## bugbear

Good news for people working on Hobbies treadle saws; I checked this morning and the upper blade
clamp with the cam is IDENTICAL to the outer blade clamp on their hand frames.

Which will thus serve as parts donors...

BugBear


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## martinka

bugbear":ey0pockv said:


> Good news for people working on Hobbies treadle saws; I checked this morning and the upper blade
> clamp with the cam is IDENTICAL to the outer blade clamp on their hand frames.
> 
> Which will thus serve as parts donors...
> 
> BugBear



Nice bit of info Bugbear, thanks!

Martin


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## powertools

bugbear":3nnyr51v said:


> Good news for people working on Hobbies treadle saws; I checked this morning and the upper blade
> clamp with the cam is IDENTICAL to the outer blade clamp on their hand frames.
> 
> Which will thus serve as parts donors...
> 
> BugBear




Any chance of a picture of a Hobbies hand held frame with the same clamp?


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## powertools

richard56":3812wygk said:


> Please can you tell me would two identical saws to these fit in a Renault Scenic?
> Thanks
> Rich



These saws are a lot smaller than they look in pictures so both will fit in your car no problem.
I am curious to know why you want to know, do we have another restoration project about to start?


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## bugbear

powertools":aazp3mlm said:


> Any chance of a picture of a Hobbies hand held frame with the same clamp?



The clamp looks like this:






:lol: :lol: :lol: 

BugBear


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## powertools

That is my picture of the clamp on my A1 saw.
I was asking for a picture of the same clamp on a Hobbies hand held frame that you think is the same.


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## martinka

powertools":p8fslewl said:


> That is my picture of the clamp on my A1 saw.
> I was asking for a picture of the same clamp on a Hobbies hand held frame that you think is the same.


I know you were expecting a different photo, but it made me laugh. :mrgreen:


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## martinka

I nearly forgot to take a photo of my latest bit of derusting and had to dig them out of the bath for a before photo. The bits didn't clean up as well as I had hoped so I might pop them back in while I am out today.


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## powertools

A quick update to this thread.
Since making the new arms for the A1 I have made no more progress and and am unlikely to for the next couple of weeks.
In the mean time I have collected a Hobbies Gem that I purchased a while ago. 






When I first saw it I was a bit disappointed because the pivot for the top arm was missing and the saw had been used a lot without it and there was a lot of damage to the top arm and upright support. It should have looked like the bottom arm. 






The other day I made a new pivot and repaired the arm and the saw now works as it should 






This picture shows the top arm as it was when I picked up the saw in this state it is impossible to keep the top and bottom arms parallel
but after careful filling of the top arm and fitting the new pivot along with a new belt the saw now works a treat. 







I don't think that I will do much more to this saw as being made from sheet metal it may well look worse with a re-paint than it does left as it is just an old well used machine that now has a new lease of life.


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## martinka

Nice going PT. I am waiting for a pal to come back from his hol's and he will hopefully make this oak into a couple of arms for me, though going on past record he might not turn up again for another year.


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## richard56

Thanks for posting the pivot pictures.
My Gem is missing both.
Had I not seen this I would have never known.
Rich


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## powertools

richard56":1elz808n said:


> Thanks for posting the pivot pictures.
> My Gem is missing both.
> Had I not seen this I would have never known.
> Rich



Without them the saw will be useless.
They are fairly easy to make in my picture of the original pivot and the one I made it looks as if mine has been made with a bit of lead bashed to shape with a brick but in real life mine is better than the original and was made from a bit of galvanised shelving and is a better fit than the original as I made it to fit the arm exactly. 
Who said the camera cannot lie?
It is the pivot and the way it sits in the arm and on the upright support that determines how the top arm and the bottom arm stay parallel with each other if they don't the saw will never work as it should.


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## martinka

powertools":cq756k7b said:


> Who said the camera cannot lie?



Everything I have cut with my scroll saw and shown on here has proved the camera can lie. They all look much better in photo's 
Martin.


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## martinka

I got a bit done today on the later Hobbies A1. Thanks to Steve, (loftyhermes), who surprised me with a pair of arms for my saw when he came to collect the older saw. I cut the arms down from 20mm thick to 15mm, which is the same as the old but useless arms I already had. Looking at a couple of old bolts from the older saw, the arms on that one were probably thicker, but too thick for the length of all the bolts and the rear arm tensioner on my later saw. (Did all that make sense?)
The rear spring has yet to go on when I can figure out where to connect it. The bracket I have gets in the way no matter how I fasten it. I need the top clamp, part of the bottom clamp, and the metal straps for top and bottom of the arms. It's not looking too bad though. Sorry about the pic, I couldn't be bothered to put it on the floor to get a clear shot.


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## powertools

That looks like good progress Martin.
I am still over run with work and family commitments but hope to get back on with mine in a couple of weeks time.
I guess at this rate yours will be finished before I have started again.
I am still trying to work out a way of replacing those awful metal straps with adjustable 4mm metal rod much like the ones fitted as standard on my Victory saw.


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## martinka

I decided to go the easy way for the bottom clamp. Now to look for all the photos of the top clamp to try to make it the correct size.


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## martinka

powertools":19tpdq7r said:


> Hi. Akela and welcome.
> This is a picture of the A1 top clamp assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> The round part is 20mm diameter, the lever sticks out from it by 40mm and the 2 parts that hold the blade are 60mm long.
> The round part has a notch in it to lock it in the tensioned position by engaging into the flat plate.



PT, any chance of a couple more measurements please? The cross section of the two long arms? I am guessing same as the bottom clamp - 1/4"x1/8" (6mmx3mm) And the distance of the pivot from the edge of the round part?
Ta.

Martin.
Hmm, I guess it would be better if quoting showed the photo as well.


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## martinka

Made a new top clamp as well but I am not sure how well it will work. I wish I had something better than a photo to work to. I should find out tomorrow if it works or not but I suspect the pivot pin is in the wrong place. I already moved it once.


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## martinka

Well, it works, in a fashion. It's cut a bit of 1/8" oak this morning, but the top clamp doesn't work as it should, so the blade moves back and forwards quite a long way. I've also found that I can't use it for more than 30 seconds or so before my legs feel like they are dropping off. Still, it works better than it did when I got it.


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## martinka

Looks like I've got this thread to myself. :mrgreen: 

I got the clamps sorted and fitted metal straps to both arms. The short link is a bit noisy, the hole for bottom pivot is a bit big so I need to make another, but it cuts OK. I don't think I would want to do much work with it though. Little video on Photobucket, with the great Steppenwolf playing in the background.
http://s288.photobucket.com/user/haydut1200/media/scroll stuff/P1040224_1_zps76fe31b7.mp4.html


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## powertools

I've only just seen the update to this thread and all I can say is that I am impressed by what you have achieved.
Do you still need more measurements of anything? If so I intend to have some workshop time this weekend and will help if I can.


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## martinka

Thanks for the offer, PT, but I managed by trial and error. The handle for the top clamp has three pivot holes in it now. Maybe one day I'll get around to making another, but it works for now. The bottom strap, which was badly rusted, snapped just after I made the video, so I cut another strap from slightly thicker metal and it's OK now. The blade is running true, or as true as I can get it. I just cut a piece of 1" thick pine and it cut it easily, though I wouldn't want to cut a lot. All in all I'm quite pleased with it. Now what do I do with it?


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## powertools

"Now what to do with it"
I can just see you sitting next to your friend in Whitby passing the time and drawing a crowd.
When mine is done I will come and join you both


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## martinka

Just a bit of info that might come in useful. The metal straps that fix to the arms are 20.75" long and the hole centres are 20". The width of the strap is 7/16". The straps I have are badly rusted but the thickness appears to be about 0.020". I made a new strap from a piece of old shelf which is 0.40" thick and works perfectly. I think 13mm banding strap would work OK. The bottom strap needs to be made thinner (about 5/16") at one end from 2" to 4" from the hole.

Some straps have a slotted hole to accomodate the adjuster bolt and square nuts. I did away with this and used a round headed bolt that fits under the strap and is adjustable through the arm.

Martin.


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## loftyhermes

I hope you don't mind me joining this thread with my new toy, it's the one that Martin gave me (thank you Martin) and the progress made so far, I've just made up the blade clamps and took the tighteners from a hand saw to complete them.



Clicking on the photo will give you more pics.
Still have some more work to complete it but it will cut wood as it is so I'm happy so far.
happy scrolling
Steve


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## powertools

Don't know if there is still any interest in this thread but I thought I would show the latested additions to my collection.

Number 1. A Hobbies Britton saw.






Number 2. A box of bits





That turned into this Hobbies saw


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## martinka

Very nice, PT. Where are you finding the space to put them all? Mine is going to have to go as I have run out of space in the garage and the A1 is down my inspection pit. May as well flog it on, along with the Diamond, and let someone else get some use from them. 

Martin.


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## martinka

But I couldn't resist buying this Hobbies saw.


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## powertools

martinka":13uwfdgy said:


> Very nice, PT. Where are you finding the space to put them all? Mine is going to have to go as I have run out of space in the garage and the A1 is down my inspection pit. May as well flog it on, along with the Diamond, and let someone else get some use from them.
> 
> Martin.



At the moment space is not a problem but we have decided that next year will be the time for us to downsize and it may become a problem then.
I have actually just purchased 1 more and that will give me a total of 5 treadle saws and that will be enough. I will post a picture when I have got it.
I blame you for my interest in these old saws since you posted that link for the Victory for sale that I then purchased. 
The only problem left is that I am still looking for a Hobbies treadle lathe.


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## woodndrum

martinka":2aueqlym said:


> Nice going PT. I am waiting for a pal to come back from his hol's and he will hopefully make this oak into a couple of arms for me, though going on past record he might not turn up again for another year.



If you are stuck for somebody to machine some new wooden parts, I'd be happy to help if I can.


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## martinka

Thanks for the offer Keith, but the saw was finished and has recently been sold, though still waiting to be picked up.


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## John Brighter33

If your machine needs a new belt look on you tube for "How to make a sewing machine belt", I have followed these instructions and have made a belt for my Hobbies Little Gem and it works a treat.


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## scrimper

John Brighter33":1fczg1fr said:


> If your machine needs a new belt look on you tube for "How to make a sewing machine belt", I have followed these instructions and have made a belt for my Hobbies Little Gem and it works a treat.



That is a good tip, I bet it does not do your putty knife much good though!


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