# Cladding for new shed build



## Jackswan (28 Jul 2016)

Just thinking of the best way to clad a new shed. First time building a shed and need it to store some pushbikes and tools, couple of high level windows will be fitted for security.

Shed is going to be a pent roof with a size of 3.6m x 2.4m. Frame already built for floor and mounted on block piers.

Originally thinking of cladding with featheredge boards which would have come to roughly £140. But hoping that the shed will last a good few years, so wondering if 19mm x 125mm shiplap treated boarding would be a better option? At a rough estimate at £1.42 a metre this will come to about £290, quite an increase in price.
Lengths of shiplap at the local timber merchant are 3.9m, 4.2m and 5.4m, not quite fitting in with the size of the shed and waste needs to be kept to a minimum. What would be the best way to fit and the best lengths to buy regarding the size of the shed? Use a 5.4m length and the remaining 1.8m is then used on the next row up, so that all horizontal joints are staggared?
Uprights on the wall frames will be at every 600mm.
Plenty more questions to come and will probably put some photos as build progresses.


Cheers


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## Lons (29 Jul 2016)

Built my last one quite a few years ago using shiplap and definitely the better option if you can afford it IMO.

Don't just accept the merchant price though, go along with your order quantity and negotiate as all the merchants can supply and they will compete on price as it's a reasonable order. They should be able to deliver free as well.

Bob


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## Jackswan (29 Jul 2016)

Cheers Bob and thanks for the suggestion of haggling a price.

Was thinking of using Onduline sheets on the roof, but after doing a search on theis forum, they are not highly thought off. Seems that EPDM is a better way to go. How easy is this to fit and how long does it last?


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## graduate_owner (29 Jul 2016)

You could consider box profile steel sheet, but keep in mind condensation. Might need lining wifh osb or similar. That would be a permanent, secure and maintenance free solution for both roof and sides, but robably more expensive than featherboard etc.

K


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## Roughcut (30 Jul 2016)

Jackswan":1a0mno82 said:


> Cheers Bob and thanks for the suggestion of haggling a price.
> 
> Was thinking of using Onduline sheets on the roof, but after doing a search on theis forum, they are not highly thought off. Seems that EPDM is a better way to go. How easy is this to fit and how long does it last?




Nothing wrong with Onduline!


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## Harbo (30 Jul 2016)

EPDM is very easy and straight forward to lay - lots of YouTube videos available.
Prefers new wood base I used 18mm OSB and applied the glues with cheapo paint rollers.
Guaranteed for 25yrs but should last much longer.

Rod


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## JonnyW (5 Aug 2016)

Have you considered cedar or larch cladding? I know it can be eye wateringly expensive, but you will never have to paint the damn thing.

I will be building a garden shed/potting shed next year, and will be using cedar or larch for future maintenance reasons - and that I hate painting!

Jonny


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## pollys13 (5 Aug 2016)

I think they build horse field shelters with shiplap, built to last very durable, Siberian Larch? If can find anyone who carries it.


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## pollys13 (5 Aug 2016)

Slow growing softwoods from northern climes perhaps?


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## JonnyW (5 Aug 2016)

Cedar and Siberian Larch becoming very popular here in the wet cold climate of Shetland. Especially larch. Very very durable wood that can handle very wet climates. 

Zero maintenance. Now that has to be a good thing. 

Jonny


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## Steve Maskery (6 Aug 2016)

Where in the country are you Jack? I have some treated shiplap left over from my workshop build and some cemtiles too. I'd be prepared to let them go as a bargain. There is probably not enough to do the whole job but you wouldn't need to buy much more.

I'm in NG17, if you are interested.


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## Jackswan (11 Aug 2016)

Steve Maskery":3ef5fcwx said:


> Where in the country are you Jack? I have some treated shiplap left over from my workshop build and some cemtiles too. I'd be prepared to let them go as a bargain. There is probably not enough to do the whole job but you wouldn't need to buy much more.
> 
> I'm in NG17, if you are interested.



In South Wales, bit far away, but thanks for the offer


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## Jackswan (11 Aug 2016)

My estimate for shiplap cladding was slightly out, would have been more like £330-£340 and a lot of waste with the sizes. Timber merchants around locally would not budge on prices, some were way more expensive, so have gone back to my original idea of a grade A feather edge board


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## Jackswan (11 Aug 2016)

Start of build, right out of sight towards bottom of garden. House was broken into 18 months ago and the burglar broke into the existing shed and used a spade to prise my french doors open, so this one has to be more secure.





Holes dug out in ground, filled with gravel and concrete blocks on top


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## Jackswan (11 Aug 2016)

DPM on ground under base


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## Jackswan (11 Aug 2016)

Side frames made and floor down


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## Jackswan (11 Aug 2016)

Still thinking of the best way to do the roof.
Gone from onduline sheets to EPDM and now doing some research on box profile sheets. 

There are OSB boards going down on top of the roof timbers, what would be the best way to fit box profile sheets if I went down that route?


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## Lons (12 Aug 2016)

Hi Jack
I would be concerned that there is no diagonal bracing in your frames which as a retired builder, I consider to be essential unless the external cladding is rigid solid sheet material. There is nothing to keep the frames square (i.e. if you pushed the top of one side frame it will push front and back out of square and could potentially collapse as a worst scenario. Same if front or back were pushed. Shiplap cladding is too thin to give that strength.

Others might disagree but for the sake of a few lengths of timber, why risk it?

cheers
Bob


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## Phil Pascoe (12 Aug 2016)

^^^^ +1


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## Jackswan (12 Aug 2016)

Lons":1e1jo6zo said:


> Hi Jack
> I would be concerned that there is no diagonal bracing in your frames which as a retired builder, I consider to be essential unless the external cladding is rigid solid sheet material. There is nothing to keep the frames square (i.e. if you pushed the top of one side frame it will push front and back out of square and could potentially collapse as a worst scenario. Same if front or back were pushed. Shiplap cladding is too thin to give that strength.
> 
> Others might disagree but for the sake of a few lengths of timber, why risk it?
> ...



That's a fair point. Where would be the best place to put in diagonal bracing?


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## Lons (13 Aug 2016)

Jackswan":yhtk8kh8 said:


> Lons":yhtk8kh8 said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Jack
> ...



hi Jack

I put mine corner to corner between the uprights but I guess it depends on how you're cladding the inside and what you're doing about insulation. Mine is just a large storage shed and I have photos somewhere so will post if I can find them


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## banjerbill (13 Aug 2016)

Hi Jack,
I am in the process of designing a combined shed/summerhouse and am unsure of the height to make the rear and front walls. 
Your proportions look pretty good, what height are they? 

Bill


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## Jackswan (19 Aug 2016)

banjerbill":ytpypqet said:


> Hi Jack,
> I am in the process of designing a combined shed/summerhouse and am unsure of the height to make the rear and front walls.
> Your proportions look pretty good, what height are they?
> 
> Bill



2100mm front, 1900mm rear


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## Fitzroy (19 Aug 2016)

Jack,

Not sure I can directly answer any of your questions but i'm in a similar boat and perhaps some of my experience or thoughts can help. Currently building a 20'x10' pent shed/workshop, looks very similar to yours. 

Roof: Went back an forth on this but eventually selected a EPDM solution. With a single fall pent roof it just looked the easiest, slightly more expensive than felt but easier diy install and lower maintenance. Metal/sheet roof solutions did not match the look i wanted and were looking pretty pricey, I surfed ebay/gumtree for secondhand options on this and never saw anything local (but then i am in aberdeen).

Cladding: Looked at shiplap, or T&G bogstandard shed boards all the way through to posh T&G siberian larch. I was amazed at the variation in price and at the staggering amount it was going to cost me for any of the options. In the end I've opted for sheathing the shed in 11mm OSB then cladding it in locally sourced larch boards (150mmx 20mm), I emailed about a dozen local (within 75miles) saw mills and was again amazed at the variation in price, from 88p/lnm up to £1.80/lnm.

Bog standard 16mm shiplap ebay = £10ish/m²
22mm shiplap ebay = £13ish/m²
11mm OSB @ £3.4/m² + board and batten larch cladding @ £8.8/m² = £12.5/m²

Now i have made a bunch of work for myself as I have to obs sheet then cross batten then clad but it's larch so there is no painting it etc. My main learning was to email as many local suppliers, as close to the start of the supply chain (the saw mill) as possible. I had to hire a van but i bought 500m of the stuff for 400+ quid so £40 on a van made sense.

Raw boards






I happen to have a thicknesseer and plan to plane the front face of the boards on my shed as the wife doesn't particularly like the rough boards. My shed will use a vertical board and batten style.





Fitz


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## Jackswan (20 Aug 2016)

Fitzroy, that sounds fab.
After thinking about different materials for the roof, I have also decided on EPDM. Had a good price from Permaroof, Just thinking about the steel sheets and the condensation, probably not a good idea.


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## Jackswan (20 Aug 2016)

Lons":339c1mp2 said:


> hi Jack
> 
> I put mine corner to corner between the uprights but I guess it depends on how you're cladding the inside and what you're doing about insulation. Mine is just a large storage shed and I have photos somewhere so will post if I can find them



Fitted 5 diagonal braces in between the uprights, but also decided to fit osb board on the inside, should strenghen the structure.


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