# Sanding sealer - advice



## Rob_H (26 May 2006)

I don't normal use this, but I used a sanding sealer on some antique pine for a mirror that I was making. When it dried it turned white. I rubbed it back with wirewool and sanded with 240 grit, but it was very hard work. Because I sometimes use very old reclaimed pine when I make mirror frames, I try and sand as little as possible to keep the character of the pine. However, I had to sand more than I normally would and I "lost" some of the character. Is this normal for sanding sealer (I think it's Liberon - I'll have to check in the workshop)? I then waxed on top of this and quite like the finish. Also if I am using danish oil or finishing oil or new wood (oak, elm, cherry etc) would i still need to use sanding sealer before applying the oil? Finishing properly is something I have neer really got to grips with and I know it makes all the difference. I have made a couple of pieces that have been let down by the finish.


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## CHJ (26 May 2006)

Sanding sealer is not normally used before Oil Finish as it prevents the Oil from penetrating the wood. Most Oils advise to apply to bare wood in the instructions.

If a test piece finished with Oil raises the grain, *lightly* rub down after first coat has dried with fine abrasive or 'webrax' .

Applying finishing coats of oil with fine abrasive can sometimes be an advantage.
Beware of using steel wool for this if working on Oak, the tannings in oak in contact with steel particles that may remain can cause brown stains to develope.

If wax finish required then a cellulose sanding sealer will dry clear. (prevents wax soaking unevenly in wood) beware that wax may collect in fissured wood pockets and not show until dried a few days latter.


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## Rob_H (26 May 2006)

CHJ":3cvnjpk1 said:


> If wax finish required then a cellulose sanding sealer will dry clear. (prevents wax soaking unevenly in wood) beware that wax may collect in fissured wood pockets and not show until dried a few days latter.



Thanks. Hmm, mine didn't dry clear at all - it was very white and powdery and it took a lot of sanding to remove it. The sealer is about two years old, so I suppose it may have passed its shelf life. I'd better buy some more- trouble is when I order from Axminster I never stop at just one thing.......


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## CHJ (26 May 2006)

Rob_H":33m23flh said:


> Thanks.  Hmm, mine didn't dry clear at all - it was very white and powdery and it took a lot of sanding to remove it. The sealer is about two years old, so I suppose it may have passed its shelf life. I'd better buy some more- trouble is when I order from Axminster I never stop at just one thing.......



If it is cellulose based then try thinning it with cellulose thinners. (local motor factors or paint merchants will stock it) volatiles may well have evaporated over time.

In normal use I find 40/60--50/50 or there abouts easier to use than 'straight out of the tin'

If stood for long periods without agitation cellulose sanding sealer can settle in base of container and be difficult to remix. 

If it is an acrylic base then dilute with water.

(note: I use Chestnut products so above is based on my experience with them only)


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## Taffy Turner (26 May 2006)

Try shellac sanding sealer.

That dries clear, and buffs up to a nice shine - you may find you can get away without waxing over it.

Regards

Gary


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## mailee (17 Jun 2006)

Speaking of sanding sealer, where can I get hold of Cellulose sanding sealer no one seems to stock it? I used to buy it in gallon cans from Axminster but they don't seem to list it anymore! :?:


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## CHJ (17 Jun 2006)

mailee":1fses6a3 said:


> Speaking of sanding sealer, where can I get hold of Cellulose sanding sealer no one seems to stock it? I used to buy it in gallon cans from Axminster but they don't seem to list it anymore! :?:



Well amongst many others, any local stockists of Chestnut Products:


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## mailee (17 Jun 2006)

Thanks CHJ but my local stockist doesn't have Chestnut products only Rustins who it appears don't use Cellulose sanding sealer only the shallac based stuff! I would much rather use the cellulose as this dries much quicker and more solid.


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## PowerTool (17 Jun 2006)

mailee":1xnwz12h said:


> Thanks CHJ but my local stockist doesn't have Chestnut products only Rustins who it appears don't use Cellulose sanding sealer only the shallac based stuff! I would much rather use the cellulose as this dries much quicker and more solid.



I've bought it off e-bay before (woodturningcliff) - but I guess that'd just laziness.. 8) 

Andrew


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## Terry Smart (19 Jun 2006)

Hi All

A list of local (or perhaps just convenient if you're passing that way!) stockists can be found on our website. Several offer a mail order service if there isn't one nearby.

Alternatively, either ask your local supplier to get in touch with us or pm me with their details and we'll educate them on the delights of Chestnut Products!


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## mailee (19 Jun 2006)

Thanks Terry, Unfortunately our local stockist of hardware is a Liberon and Black Bison man. He is even going to stop stocking Briwax as the price has gone up! Looks like my only way is to order it by post. Soes Chestnut sell it by the 5L can?


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## Wanlock Dod (20 Jun 2006)

Mailee,

I managed to get a small tin from Gnomebase recently...  

Cheers,

Dod


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## Terry Smart (21 Jun 2006)

Sorry, I meant to answer this earlier...

If you're after a 5 ltr of the Sanding Sealer your best bet is Axminster, they're about the only ones who stock this product in this size; hopefully most of our other stockists can order it in for you if you'd prefer.


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## mailee (24 Jun 2006)

Sorry Terry I too have been busy to reply to you but am back now. I used to buy it from Axminster in 5ltr cans but I notice they don't list it in there latest catalogue hence my question. I normally do not bother buying it in smaller quantities as I use quite a lot and it just isn't economical to buy it is small quantities. I think I shall have to give Axminster a call and see if they do indeed still stock it.


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## craylad (12 Aug 2006)

Terry, I purchased a drum brush through Axminster after reading your post and following the link. My problem is the state of the brush on delivery. Should it look like Florence's hair from Magic Roundabout or should it be nice and round like the picture on your web site? It seems as if the brush has been stored with other stuff on top. Should I send it back? Barry


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## Terry Smart (14 Aug 2006)

Hi Barry

The transportation part of the process is rarely kind to these brushes, they often arrive looking a little the worse for wear.
However, don't let appearances put you off! The brush will still work perfectly, indeed during use it will pretty much go back to its original shape.

We are currently looking at ways to box this product to protect it more, but without increasing the cost too much.

Hope this helps

Terry


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## craylad (14 Aug 2006)

Thanks Terry, I will be putting it to good use over the next few days so it should hopefully shape up well by then.


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