# Infill Mitre Plane Project



## rxh (7 Jun 2014)

Some readers may remember my Infill Smoothing Plane Project and Small Router Plane Project from last year. Well, I haven’t been entirely idle this year but my work is taking me away from home quite a bit and I haven’t been able to do as much woodwork and metalwork as I would have liked. However, I have made small router planes No.s 3 & 4 and I have been collaborating with another UKW member on an interesting project, of which more will be revealed in due course. Also, I have made a start on this mitre plane. It is based on a design of Jim Kingshott but I have made the following modifications:
-	my own variant of Norris type adjuster, using a pivot tube,
-	addition of adjustable mouth,
-	“rxh” style front handle.
This is my first attempt at a dovetailed plane with brass sides and steel sole and I am enjoying the challenge.


----------



## tobytools (7 Jun 2014)

Beautiful. Absolutely love it. I can't wait to see the finished article and will continue to follow this thread with great intrest. Mitre planes are a passion of mine  

Thanks for sharing Rxh. And your secret collaboration had me itching.... 
Cheers
TT


----------



## tobytools (9 Jun 2014)

can't believe noone else has commented on this thread.. wake up people
keep it up mate

your fan
TT


----------



## Mr_P (10 Jun 2014)

Apologies I was waiting until I found my Jim Kingshgott book before I commented, so I could sound a bit less thick than wot I om. 

As Toby stays 


> Beautiful. Absolutely love it. I can't wait to see the finished article and will continue to follow this thread with great intrest. Mitre planes are a passion of mine




Padauk ? Or something else planned ?

Old iron or new ? Guess since you have an adjuster you will make your own ?


----------



## gasman (10 Jun 2014)

OK I absolutely love it too! - hadn't really seen it to be honest
This is one my bucket list of things to do in the next few years and I am (now) following with great interest.
The mouth appears very wide to me - any particular reason? Also did you freehand the shape or is it based on another?
Brilliant work
Mark


----------



## Harbo (10 Jun 2014)

Very nice work - looking good - and Gasman the mouth is going to be adjustable 

Rod


----------



## tobytools (10 Jun 2014)

gasman":3adu5ao3 said:


> OK I absolutely love it too! - hadn't really seen it to be honest
> This is one my bucket list of things to do in the next few years and I am (now) following with great interest.
> The mouth appears very wide to me - any particular reason? Also did you freehand the shape or is it based on another?
> Brilliant work
> Mark



The mouth won't allways be that wide a plate will be put into place with and adjustable screw. Like any adjustable mouthed plane. 

TT


----------



## rxh (10 Jun 2014)

Thanks to all for the kind comments. In answer to the questions:
- Yes, I plan to use padauk for the wooden parts to match my other planes.
- I plan to make the blade of O1 steel. I'll have to find a way of heating it to red heat for hardening. I intend to make all the metal parts.
- Yes, there will be a sliding sole insert to adjust the mouth.


----------



## rxh (10 Jun 2014)

PS. I got the shape from Jim Kingshott's design but adapted it to suit my front handle style.


----------



## jimi43 (10 Jun 2014)

Very impressive indeed!!!

I love the precision in particular and also I like the adjustable mouth...it's the way to go and adds greatly to the flexibility of the plane.

Can't wait to see the infills. I didn't consider Paduk before but when I saw how it darkens dramatically...almost towards rosewood darkness, I think I will have a play with the stock I parked at the back of the store...wondering what to do with it! 

Looking forward to the next episode.

Jimi


----------



## Racers (11 Jun 2014)

I have made a few blades using a charcoal BBQ and either a hair dryer or lately my shop vac on blow.
You need a magnet on a stick to test the temperature, it won't stick when its hot enough, and oil, I use old engine oil.

How does the adjustable mouth work?

Pete


----------



## rxh (12 Jun 2014)

Jimi,
Thanks for your encouragement. Padauk is funny stuff - when newly cut it is bright orange but turns a rich dark red with time. There is a distinctive smell when you cut it andthe dust stains clothes and I suspect it is bad to breathe.

Pete,
Thanks for the tips about the charcoal and magnet. Up to now I have only heat treated items, such as chisels and punches, small enough to use a gas blowtorch for. The adjustable mouth (or "slider") will be supported above by a "step" rivetted to the sole. A bolt fixedto the slider will pass though a slot in the step. On the upper side of the step the bolt will pass through two knurled knobs. The lower knob will not be threaded but will have a sort of cam at its lower side, bearing on a peg fixed to the step. Turning that knob will force the bolt, and hence the slider to move backward or forward. The upper knob will be threaded to the bolt and will be used to lock the slider in place. It will be easier to show than describe .....


----------



## mqbernardo (12 Jun 2014)

wow!


----------



## rxh (14 Jul 2014)

I haven't been able to do anything to this plane for a few weeks owing to working away from home. However, this weekend I managed to do some serious metal bashing (literally). I riveted the step in place and then attached the sides. It was very satisfying to see the dovetails emerge from under the battered metal.


----------



## tobytools (14 Jul 2014)

Your a master Rxh. Looking very good at this stage and I'm so envious of your talents 
Keep it comming. If you find yourself wanting to bold another I have a plane kit than needs doing and I fear I'll never get around to it 
TT


----------



## jimi43 (14 Jul 2014)

Great progress mate!

I was sitting here thinking...why the hell is he tapping the rivets into the frog and then I realized it was a tapered reamer!

I have no idea where my mind is today! :mrgreen: 

I actually promised myself that after the panel I'm doing, that was it. No more blinkin' metalwork.

BUT...watching you doing a mitre...I am thinking again on that and your progress and neat engineering has encouraged me to do one. (though I think box would be used as the infill! 8) )

Now...all you need to do is not disappear for so long..I can't wait to see the next installment.

Cheers

Jimi


----------



## Mr_P (15 Jul 2014)

Blimey you make that look easy. 

Do you peen in the vice ? 

How thick are your brass sides and steel sole ? 

Thanks again for sharing / inspiring.


----------



## rxh (15 Jul 2014)

Toby, Jimi & Mr_P: thanks for your comments. I urge you all to give it a try using some scrap metal.

The sole is 1/4" thick and the sides are 3/16" thick. I have tried various punches but I mostly use a short, round nosed one (that can be seen on the left in one of the photos above), driven by a 1 1/2" lb. hammer for steel. Brass seems to respond better to many small taps using a much smaller hammer.

Yes, I hold the work in a vice for the peening operations. The one I use is perhaps rather small but is attached to a wooden bench in my shed. I have a larger vice but it is mounted on a steel bench in the garage and I fear that the noise from hammering there would be very offensive to my family and neighbours.


----------



## Racers (15 Jul 2014)

Looking very nice rxh.

Do you have a Dreadnought file? they make short work of hogging off metal.

Pete


----------



## rxh (15 Jul 2014)

Thanks Pete,

I've been meaning to buy some new dreadnought files. The only one I have is very blunt. My largest effective file is a 14" coarse one with "ordinary" teeth : a big [email protected]@rd


----------



## Phil Pascoe (15 Jul 2014)

I look at that and think of my chisels and gouges and feel very 'umble


----------



## rxh (15 Jul 2014)

Thanks Phil but no need for humility, based on the beautiful tools I received from Santa  

By the way, I hope your leg is improved.


----------



## Racers (15 Jul 2014)

Hi rxh

Have you tried leaving in in acid? 

All mine came from car boot sales, most wickedly sharp.

Pete


----------



## rxh (15 Jul 2014)

Pete,
No, I haven't tried acid but I'll give it a go. What sort of acid and what concentration do you use? Also, how long does it take?


----------



## Racers (15 Jul 2014)

I have some Muritic acid for brick cleaning but any acid (lemon juice, vinegar cilit bang) ) will do, the time depends on the strength of the acid and the bluntness of your file, its a bit suck it and see.
Just make sure your file is clean and degreased before you pop it in.

Pete


----------



## jimi43 (15 Jul 2014)

Racers":a0h07dsr said:


> I have some Muritic acid for brick cleaning but any acid (lemon juice, vinegar cilit bang) ) will do, the time depends on the strength of the acid and the bluntness of your file, its a bit suck it and see.
> Just make sure your file is clean and degreased before you pop it in.
> 
> Pete



Back in the dim and distant past...I recall someone else tell me this wrinkle....and I didn't try it at the time but I will now.

I have some really nice phosphoric acid just waiting to do some work...I'll post the results!

Jimi


----------



## Mr_P (15 Jul 2014)

Pedder suggested reviving his needle files in mild acid here

life-after-death-for-my-back-saw-t54710.html



> To sharpen a needlefile I store them in a old prickels glas filled some cheap vinegar over the week. If they are not sharp enough the stay another week. I just dry them with paper and oil them with balistol to stop the corrsion.




He must have mentioned it again more recently as I wasn't around in 2011.


----------



## condeesteso (20 Jul 2014)

been busy elsewhere rx so slow coming to this. I know the workmanship will be exemplary (as I have one of the router planes from this stable / shed).
Nice combination of materials, I too like the padouk once it mellows although with the amount of work here I would maybe have gone for a level up - ebony, old rosewood if you could find it, Mr Ts mulberry maybe (I need to get hold of some mulberry to have a play with).
I shall follow with interest - I know it's going to be good, hats off!


----------



## rxh (22 Jul 2014)

Thanks Douglas,
I'll give some thought to alternative wood possibilities. Ebony is very pricey though ....

I have made a lot of the other metal parts, as can be seen in the photo below. The mouth adjustment mechanism works quite well. I'm thinking of putting an ACME thread on the lever cap screw (following Jimi's example) but I haven't located a supplier of ACME dies yet. Failing that, I'll make it 3/8" BSW.


----------



## jimi43 (22 Jul 2014)

rxh":1ujf43hc said:


> Thanks Douglas,
> I'll give some thought to alternative wood possibilities. Ebony is very pricey though ....
> 
> I have made a lot of the other metal parts, as can be seen in the photo below. The mouth adjustment mechanism works quite well. I'm thinking of putting an ACME thread on the lever cap screw (following Jimi's example) but I haven't located a supplier of ACME dies yet. Failing that, I'll make it 3/8" BSW.



If you want ACME thread taps and dies you can get them from RDF TOOLS

That is looking absolutely fabulous!!!

=D> =D> =D> 

Cheers

Jim


----------



## rxh (9 Sep 2014)

Time for an update on this job, which was on hold for several weeks because I was working away from home:
- I obtained an Acme die from RDG Tools (thanks for the tip, Jimi) and a corresponding tap from Tracy Tools but I haven't tried them yet.
- I made a rear infill from padauk but I wasn't satisfied with the fit in the plane and the pivot tube was not sufficiently central for my liking. So I have made a new one and will take more care over the fitting this time.
- I have made a blade from O1 steel but have not heat treated it yet.
- A start has been made on the wedge and the lever cap.


----------



## jimi43 (9 Sep 2014)

Glad you sorted the bits for the Acme thread out mate but I'm a little confused as to why you didn't get them both from RDG Tools as I am concerned that if you have a die from one maker and the tap from another that they won't necessarily match. There seems to be a bit of variation in the specification you can buy because of differing tolerances and usage.

My suggestion is before you cut the real metal...do a test fit in hardwood or Corian (as I did) or some scrap metal. It would be an awful shame to make all the parts only to find they are too loose or tight.

Paduk...funny stuff that. It's very much like Cocobolo in that you start out with something which looks more at home in a jelly mould and then like magic, after a few weeks you have rosewood! I still find it hard to get used to and I have some Paduk in store so I think I will follow your lead when I (eventually) make my mitre plane.

The rest of the project is coming on in leaps and bounds, which considering your other projects is most admirable!

Look forward to the next installment.

=D> 

Jim


----------



## rxh (10 Sep 2014)

Thanks Jim,
Strangely, RDG didn't offer a 3/8" x 10 TPI tap and Tracy didn't offer a die in that size, hence the two suppliers chosen. Yes, I'll certainly try cutting threads in some scrap first


----------



## rxh (31 Oct 2014)

I've done some more work on this plane, after being distracted by other jobs for a while:
- wedge made and inlaid with brass wear strip,
- cut acme thread in lever cap bolt,
- made lever cap,
- made expanding pin for attaching lever cap.


----------



## n0legs (31 Oct 2014)

Was that lever cap made by hand ? If so well done =D> 
I've been watching this topic and really looking forward to seeing this completed, looks like it's going to be a beauty.


----------



## rxh (31 Oct 2014)

Yes, the lever cap was all done by hand, thanks (apart from drilling the holes). I cut off as much waste as possible by hacksaw and then set to work with files and then abrasive paper.


----------



## jimi43 (31 Oct 2014)

Nice one mate...I particularly love the lever cap...and knob...stunning stuff.

I was thinking about the wear strip for when I get around to starting my mitre and I have to say I particularly like the recent trend (old trend!) for using a full block peined into sole or tabs in the side...that is an interesting concept and aids in bed firmness.

Lovely seeing this starting up again mate...great stuff!

Jimi


----------



## rxh (1 Nov 2014)

Thanks Jimi.

I finished the plane today, gave it a trial on some end grain beech and mahogany and was quite pleased. Here are some photos of the finished article. It consists of 44 component parts and weighs about 5.5 lb (2.5 kg).


----------



## Mr_P (1 Nov 2014)

Very well done =D> =D> =D> 

Thanks again for sharing/inspiring.

Only one minor criticism, stunning lever cap looks naked without your initials/name.


----------



## n0legs (1 Nov 2014)

Sir I salute you =D> 
That is a stunning piece of craftsmanship.
I can't be the only one here thinking that some of these "home made" ( I use that with the utmost respect ) tools should be put into production.
I would buy some of them to go on my book shelf. 
Excellent.


----------



## AndyT (1 Nov 2014)

Wow!

Just wow!

And another Wow!


----------



## Racers (1 Nov 2014)

That's a fantastic plane. 

Pete


----------



## jimi43 (1 Nov 2014)

Wow Richard!!

Best yet mate. I shall be picking your brains on a number of things soon!

Are you still up for the MAC Timbers open day on 30th?

Bring this one with the Sichester if you are...would love to have a play.

Bravo mate! Classic form...beautifully interpreted...stunningly executed!

=D> =D> 

Jimi


----------



## rafezetter (2 Nov 2014)

What a stunner! But agreed, you MUST stamp it or something, so future generations can look you up


----------



## rxh (2 Nov 2014)

Thanks to all for the kind comments   I must look into getting the lever cap engraved.

Yes, I plan to go to Mac on 30th and will bring this plane with the Silchester. I've made a start on a new plane (much simpler) and will bring that one too if it is finished and works OK.


----------



## jimi43 (2 Nov 2014)

rxh":1lc1idpl said:


> Thanks to all for the kind comments   I must look into getting the lever cap engraved.
> 
> Yes, I plan to go to Mac on 30th and will bring this plane with the Silchester. I've made a start on a new plane (much simpler) and will bring that one too if it is finished and works OK.



You certainly shall have to get that fine lever cap engraved. Might I suggest Ian at CHALCO once again...he did a fine job on the panel plane one.

I am really looking forward to the MAC Timbers event. If it's as good as last time...should be really interesting day out again. Now all I have to do is decide what wood to get....and I really hope Bill will be there.

Cheers and once again...superb job on the plane...can't wait to try her out!

Jimi


----------



## Harbo (2 Nov 2014)

Fantastic workmanship and a great plane but to be really critical I don't really like the profile of the front tote - perhaps too much of a traditionalist?

Rod


----------



## MickCheese (2 Nov 2014)

That is beautiful.

Did you say how many hours it took? I would think a considerable number. The finished article is second to none.

You should be very proud of your achievement.

Mick


----------



## condeesteso (2 Nov 2014)

Stunning work indeed, like it a lot and even better when the padouk mellows as it has done on the smoother. Maybe a really posh shooting board to match??
Re the front bun shape, I know it's a big shift from traditional but I used rxh's smoother with the same shape, and it does handle very well. From a traditional viewpoint I'd question the Norris-style adjuster but I am prtetty sure the maker added that mainly for the fun of making it.
Outstanding work =D>


----------



## rxh (2 Nov 2014)

Thanks for the kind responses, guys.

Jimi – thanks, I’ll check out Chalco for the engraving.

Rod - I know the front handle shape isn’t to everyone’s taste but it is quite good to hold and also I’m trying to give my planes a distinctive look. When I made the infill smoothing plane I wasn’t pleased with the front handle shape so I removed it and came up with this style instead after much head scratching. The plane I’m making now will have an even stranger looking rear handle ….  

Mick – ’sorry I don’t keep track of the hours but I suppose they were quite a few – I just go and do a bit of filing or turning or whatever when I get an opportunity.

Douglas – Yes, a new shooting board may be in order – my existing one does the job but is not exactly a thing of beauty. The plane is based on a Jim Kingshott design, which did include a Norris type adjuster. In his book, Jim states that he is not aware of any plane like it having been commercially produced so indeed it seems to be not exactly traditional. I changed the Norris adjuster to my own variant, added the adjustable mouth feature, altered the front handle shape and made some other small design changes – a lot of this has to do with the fun of working out the details and making them, as you imply


----------



## jimi43 (2 Nov 2014)

I have always been happy with Ian's work...and the traditional engraver is fast becoming a thing of the past...so I tend to support the remainder so that they may carry on the tradition.

I think I may have convinced him to travel north a few miles for the day...you might mention you are going...it may tip the balance.

Cheers

Jim


----------



## Self Taught (3 Nov 2014)

rxh'

That, is most certainly, a delightful looking work of art. Love how the wood turned out, very nice choice. An elegant engraving is in order, it would be a nice, final touch to the project. Jamey


----------



## rxh (28 Nov 2014)

Thanks Jimi and Jamey. I have taken your advice and Ian of Chalco has done a fine job of the engraving.


----------



## jimi43 (28 Nov 2014)

rxh":9nu3zlk8 said:


> Thanks Jimi and Jamey. I have taken your advice and Ian of Chalco has done a fine job of the engraving.



Yup...that guy's a bleedin' master engraver! 

It truly finishes off a beautiful plane!

Bravo mate..bring it in the car with you...can't wait to see it!

Did Ian say if he was going to the MAC event?

Jimi


----------



## rxh (28 Nov 2014)

Thanks Jimi. Yes, I'm very pleased with Ian's work. I told him I plan to take the plane to Mac on Sunday but I don't know if he is going. I took the opportunity to have him engrave my smoother too and I'll bring that along, together with the Silchester plane and some others.


----------



## jimi43 (28 Nov 2014)

rxh":36n32k7x said:


> Thanks Jimi. Yes, I'm very pleased with Ian's work. I told him I plan to take the plane to Mac on Sunday but I don't know if he is going. I took the opportunity to have him engrave my smoother too and I'll bring that along, together with the Silchester plane and some others.



WOW! It's gonna be a busy day!

Looking forward to it immensely!

See you at 8:30....

Jim


----------



## condeesteso (29 Nov 2014)

That's very nice - the serif and big/small caps (a touch New England is that), tasty indeed.
yep, see you all 8.30 prompt


----------



## Self Taught (3 Dec 2014)

rxh,

That is some wonderful engraving. Really sets it off nicely. Jamey


----------



## jimi43 (3 Dec 2014)

And what a beautiful plane in the flesh! 

Sadly I didn't get time to have a play with that one..there were so many of yours RIchard...it was hard to get through them all...but I do intend to correct that omission next time!

And Ian's engraving is astounding...as always!

Jimi


----------

