# Lie Nielsen, Chisel Handles



## custard (30 Jul 2011)

I've been using Lie Nielsen socketed chisels for about two years now, I'm 99% there in terms of only picking up the chisel by the socket and rapping the handle on the bench to secure the handle, but it's only a matter of time before a combination of that remaining 1% and a concrete floor will necessitate a major regrind! 

Has anyone epoxied the handles in or found a way of making them more secure.


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## David C (30 Jul 2011)

The hot tip from the states is to try some hairspray !!

Perhaps rap a bit harder. Mine almost never get loose, but my workshop has fairly consistent humidity.

Honest.

David


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## Harbo (30 Jul 2011)

I've only had one drop out and onto my rubber floor mats so no damage.

Those mats are a great investment!

Rod


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## Muina (31 Jul 2011)

Happily reading the post until the concrete floor bit, I think a tear just rolled down my cheek. I remember the Hairspray thing actually, I seem to remember they did a Quick Tip video on Youtube not so long ago.

Anthony


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## Alf (31 Jul 2011)

At the risk of metaphorically standing on a hill in a thunderstorm and saying "Yah boo" to the gods, mine have never fallen out yet.* However I believe powdered rosin has also been mentioned as an effective solution - as sold for the bows of stringed instruments - should hairspray not appeal.

*Hark! Is that the merry rattle of socket handles falling to the floor like so many autumn leaves that I hear from a workshop direction...?


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## Jacob (31 Jul 2011)

Does the spigot have a pointy end - in which case snip off a few millimetres?
If you wet the wood slightly it will rust the sides a touch and make for a firm friction fit.* I know this from accidental experience (not with a LN chisel of course, I have never had the pleasure).

PS *or a teaspoon of water in the socket?


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## custard (31 Jul 2011)

Spookily the hairspray idea seems to be working!


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## Argus (31 Jul 2011)

.


I was staggered at the cost of the alternative LN long handles and being a turner, I made my own. 

The sockets of the current range of LV chisels are bored, not swaged, so they will all be the same profile or shape. So it's an easy task to make a negative profile and turn your own.
But I was faced with the same problem... most handles LN handles tend to work loose after a while.

So how to keep them in place while retaining the ability to remove them in one piece if required?

Heat. 

Sand the tapered end of the handle clean; next warm the socket with a small propane blow torch - just enough to expand it, not too hot, but DEFINITELY NOT RED HOT.
Insert the handle and whack downwards on the bench top. Allow it to cool. It won't come out in use.

.


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## PeterBassett (1 Aug 2011)

You're braver than I would be, if I owned such chisels....


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## Argus (1 Aug 2011)

.




PeterBassett":2b85r666 said:


> You're braver than I would be, if I owned such chisels....




Not really; localised gentle heat, that's all.

It just needs to be hot enough to expand the socket a little to grip the handle. Too hot to touch, but not enough to colour the steel.



.


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## jimi43 (1 Aug 2011)

If you guys will buy these cheap foreign imports! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :wink: 

Stick some Araldite in the hole and be done with it! :wink: 

Jim


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## GazPal (1 Aug 2011)

jimi43":25rn1s8d said:


> If you guys will buy these cheap foreign imports! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :wink:
> 
> Stick some Araldite in the hole and be done with it! :wink:
> 
> Jim



I couldn't agree more Jim


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## Fat ferret (1 Aug 2011)

custard":2thy3hwz said:


> So how to keep them in place while retaining the ability to remove them in one piece if required?



Why do you need to change the handles anyway? :? Seems like a poor deal if the handles keep coming off such expensive chisels.


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## Jacob (1 Aug 2011)

Fat ferret":2f0mdmps said:


> custard":2f0mdmps said:
> 
> 
> > So how to keep them in place while retaining the ability to remove them in one piece if required?
> ...


Fashion - nothing else.
But if they are well used and heavily bashed at regular intervals then they will stay firmly wedged in.


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## bugbear (2 Aug 2011)

custard":2zqpws1q said:


> I... and a concrete floor will necessitate a major regrind!



For your comfort (sod the chisels) I'd recommend anti fatigue mats anyway.

BugBear


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## bugbear (2 Aug 2011)

Fat ferret":w8jzujcs said:


> Why do you need to change the handles anyway?



To convert them to/from long paring chisels (pseudo -slicks)

BugBear


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## woodbloke (2 Aug 2011)

...or by fitting a tiny button handle, into dwarf LN's for those awkward places that are too big for a standard size - Rob


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## custard (2 Aug 2011)

Jacob":3ucjw7xh said:


> Fat ferret":3ucjw7xh said:
> 
> 
> > custard":3ucjw7xh said:
> ...



You'd think so. But I have the same problem of loosening handles on the Lie Nielsen mortice chisels which are regularly and heavily bashed! 

However after three days, the hairspray idea is still working. I guess the real hairspray test will come in the next few days as humidity is forecast by the BBC to go from 34% on Wednesday to 96% on Thursday, that should see boards curling all over the place!


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## woodbloke (2 Aug 2011)

custard":48epebkn said:


> ... humidity is forecast by the BBC to go from 34% on Wednesday to 96% on Thursday, that should see boards curling all over the place!


I should give them a quick going over with hairspray as welll...ought to keep their shape then! :lol: :lol: - Rob>>>>>>>>outa here :mrgreen:


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## Jacob (3 Aug 2011)

LN chisels do seem to be a problem one way or another, crumbly steel etc. I don't know why anybody bothers at those prices.
It must be a design fault somehow - I've never ever had a chisel handle drop off ever, including socket chisels. In fact I had a helluva job removing a socket chisel handle when I wanted to replace it, not least because the inside of the socket was rusty. So there might be the answer - a teaspoonfull of water in the socket?


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## David C (3 Aug 2011)

Jacob,

I wish you would stop writing misleading drivel about things you know nothing of. (L-N steel).

These chisels are very good. The cryogenically treated A2 steel is good. The hardness is good. The ability to change handles is useful. The timber of the handles is excellent and can be struck with a hammer. The balance is good. The grinding is superb with wonderful delicate edges. The flatness from the factory is good. There is no European chisel which can touch them...............................

I use these chisels all the time.

David Charlesworth


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## matthewwh (4 Aug 2011)

Oooh lummy, here we go.

A2 is a die steel, not an edge steel, it must be ground at 30 deg plus in order to prevent the cohesion issues mentioned above and thus determines the unwieldy toblerone like profile and tip heaviness characteristic of the LN's. Furthermore A2 will not convert fully to pearlite on tempering - hence the need for triple tempering to convert more of the remaining martensite, it also suffers from primary carbide formation so it will hold a 'not quite fresh' edge for a long time encouraging lazy sharpening habits. In short it is the wrong stuff. 

I also disagree with the assertion that socket chisels are well balanced for chopping, the higher centre of gravity of a tanged chisel provides a finer feel for vertical and the lower bevel angle achievable with carbon steels affords easier penetration and therefore greater control.

No truck with LN's grinding and flatness, which are both superb, but I was absolutely delighted when they finally reneiged and decided to offer them in O1.

For European competition I'd recommend a Narex 8116 over an A2 LN anyday, Ashley Iles are light years ahead and if Sorby took the trouble to get their backs right they would easily nobble the toblerones as well.

If the handles are falling off then they are not seating correctly in the socket, a pinch of silicon cabide and then screw the handle around in the socket - not unlike seating a valve - clean all the dust out and with a sharp tap they should adhere beautifully. Slapping the side of the chisel against a block of wood will encourage them to part again if necessary.


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## Jacob (4 Aug 2011)

David C":3g0lup5b said:


> Jacob,
> 
> I wish you would stop writing misleading drivel about things you know nothing of. (L-N steel).
> ....


What I _do_ know is that LN chisels are complained about endlessly. 
But they are obviously marvelous if you say so, and everybody else is wrong and should just stop complaining. :roll: It's their own fault if the handles drop off.


> The ability to change handles is useful.


Is it? :lol: Seems you have to anyway, like it or not. :lol: 

I agree with Matthew - of the few new chisels/gouges I've ever bought the Ashley or Ray Iles seem to be tops, totally superior to LN, cheaper, the handles don't drop of, they don't have crumbly edges and are locally made.
NB I'm not a dealer/representative nor have ever had even a free sample (from anybody ever, except Matthew's bottle of snake oil!). I must be doing something wrong.


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## Jacob (4 Aug 2011)

Other frequent complaints are about quality of finish and even quality of wood in the handles.

Just had a quick look around for price comparisons. 
Looking at the alternatives, the prices, the complaints, then LN chisels seem to be an over-hyped, over-priced, rip-off.


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## bugbear (4 Aug 2011)

Jacob":2qpp051r said:


> David C":2qpp051r said:
> 
> 
> > Jacob,
> ...



Second hand knowledge Jacob?

I thought only that which occurred in YOUR workshop counted. You certainly don't listen to anybody else's positive opinions or reviews, deeming them deluded, corrupt or ignorant.

BugBear


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## Jacob (4 Aug 2011)

> _What I do know is that LN chisels are complained about endlessly._
> Second hand knowledge Jacob?


No, first hand knowledge - I read the complaints on an almost daily basis.

but DFTT :roll:


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## Karl (4 Aug 2011)

Jacob":hc8bukjt said:


> No, first hand knowledge - I read the complaints on an almost daily basis.



I remember a thread a while back where people complained about crumbling steel on their LN chisels (Alf had the same problem IIRC), but to say that it is a daily occurrence is surely an exaggeration.


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## Paul Chapman (4 Aug 2011)

Jacob":35cx5w5p said:


> I read the complaints on an almost daily basis.



You should get out more, Jacob, then maybe you wouldn't be such a grumpy old sod :lol: 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Jacob (4 Aug 2011)

Paul Chapman":1qfjm7i2 said:


> Jacob":1qfjm7i2 said:
> 
> 
> > I read the complaints on an almost daily basis.
> ...


Yebbut it's p&&sing it down with rain at the mo. :x 
I might pedal around the block later. :lol: I'll go and get the Guardian and a steak n onion pie.


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## Paul Chapman (4 Aug 2011)

Jacob":1r8kvd83 said:


> I'll go and get the Guardian



Good idea. I'm sure they have a "Letters to the editor" page. You could try writing to them every day and give us poor souls a break. I'm sure the The Guardian readers would value your opinions........ :lol: 

Cheers :wink:

Paul


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## woodbloke (4 Aug 2011)

matthewwh":t451rr7t said:


> Oooh lummy, here we go.
> 
> A2 is a die steel, not an edge steel, it must be ground at 30 deg plus in order to prevent the cohesion issues mentioned above and thus determines the unwieldy toblerone like profile and tip heaviness characteristic of the LN's. Furthermore A2 will not convert fully to pearlite on tempering - hence the need for triple tempering to convert more of the remaining martensite, it also suffers from primary carbide formation so it will hold a 'not quite fresh' edge for a long time encouraging lazy sharpening habits. In short it is the wrong stuff.
> 
> ...


I have to agree with all that's been said about LN chisels...they (A2's) simply aren't as good as they're cracked up to be. A2 *will *crumble (as the sole of my LN block plane will adequately testify :evil: ) if the honed bevel is too shallow. I eventually found that 32 or 33deg was about right, but I know that MrC hones at 35deg. In a little side by side test I did for my own benefit, I was convinced that Mr Fujikawa's professional Orie Nomi's, (when compared against LN A2 chisels with a similar honed edge) held a much sharper edge and even when smacked into oak a dozen times with a big geno, there was no chipping at the edge.

...and I also agree with Paul's assessment of Jacob :lol: :lol: but feel sorry for Gaurdian readers - Rob


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## Alf (4 Aug 2011)

Karl":qluua7j1 said:


> Jacob":qluua7j1 said:
> 
> 
> > No, first hand knowledge - I read the complaints on an almost daily basis.
> ...



Nope, never had that. Just use a higher angle - which complaining about it with A2 is like complaining that a pig has a curly tail. It's just how it is. But it is why I, like others, nagged about getting some made available in O1, because being able to use a finer bevel without crumbling is often preferable in a chisel. My only negative observation is that I didn't feel that there was _quite_ the quality feel of finish in the recent O1 examples I bought, compared to the earlier manufactured A2 ones that I purchased first. If you hadn't got the comparison available, you'd probably look at me like I was mad and wonder what the devil I was on about.

The matter of balance that Matthew touches on is so much a case of personal preference as to be null and void in any discussion, in my view. I like 'em. But then I like tanged chisels too. Heck, I just like chisels.


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## jimi43 (4 Aug 2011)

The A2 Veritas spokeshave blade I got for a fiver on Axminster's manager's special deals was perfect for the first few tries when it was sharp but since then has been very disappointing compared with 01 steel that I use all the time.

The irons that I make myself in the kiln are sharper and stay sharper longer...and just feel nice and easy to hone unlike the A2.

Old chisels from Sorby, Ward...even Marples that I pick up for 50p with old cast steel are better IMHO.

Ok they need regular touching up but they are just nicer. I was almost put off modern steels simply because of my experience of A2 and then I came upon the T10 that QS uses and if anything...that might even be better than 01....time will tell.

Companies like LN obviously listen to the market views otherwise they wouldn't make an apparent retrogressive step to 01....

To pay nigh on £50 for a chisel for me is nonsense...I could get 100 bootfair masterpieces for that...sharpen them all up...stick them in a row and use each one for 5 minutes for about 10 years before I ran out of sharp edges...but if anyone feels that the price is worth it...good on them! I can think of better things to spend my money one...and I hate to quote our dear friend Jacob but "like on wood!"

Jim


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## woodbloke (4 Aug 2011)

jimi43":6desxqx7 said:


> To pay nigh on £50 for a chisel for me is nonsense...I could get 100 bootfair masterpieces for that...sharpen them all up...stick them in a row and use each one for 5 minutes for about 10 years before I ran out of sharp edges...but if anyone feels that the price is worth it...good on them! I can think of better things to spend my money one...and I hate to quote our dear friend Jacob but "like on wood!"
> 
> Jim


Does there come a point though Jim, when you look at the stuff you've got (not you personally :wink:...the royal 'you' :wink: ) and think..._'yup...I've got enough stuff, I don't need any more for what I do?'_ I'm rapidly approaching that point with hand tools where I've got planes under the bench that I've never, if rarely used. Granted they will get used at some point, but I tend :-" 8-[ to be a 'user' rather than a 'collector' F'rinstance, the Norris panel plane hasn't seen any action for years now, same as my compass plane. Both nice to have under the bench, but both don't get used much. If the tools are racked out on the 'Tool Wall' then they'll get used in the normal run of the mill making processes.
Probably why I don't understand the fascination with booties that others seem to like 'cos if I went round and delved into buckets of rust on a Sunday morning, most of it I'd classify as 'tat' and not worth the bother. If I saw stuff that I could actually use, that might be different...how many egg beaters do you really need? I have one which I've used occaisionally.
Not having a pop at anyone who enjoys these sorts of things...just not for me - Rob


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## jimi43 (4 Aug 2011)

The difference is Rob..I have never been in a position to be able to afford to pay £50 for each chisel I use so I get loads at bootfairs for next to nothing...keep the ones I like for users and sell the rest for ten times what I pay for them again...at a bootfair on a stall. I have plenty of takers!

The money rendered allows me to splash out occasionally on judicious purchases on FleaBay for things I will not be likely to find at bootfairs or when people convince me to buy new saws! :mrgreen: :wink: 

I think this process gives me the tools I need to work..the pleasure of researching old makers and designs....and the profit to buy more tools.

I am desperately trying to find a flaw in this plan but..... :wink: 

Jimi


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## woodbloke (4 Aug 2011)

That sounds a plan to me Jim, which is the way you fund your woodie activities. All my tool purchases over the years have been funded through my articles in F&C and whilst it doesn't pay a great deal, it does allow me to get the stuff I want...plus the odd foray with SWIMBO's cc   - Rob


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## David C (4 Aug 2011)

An excellent comment from ALF. A2 is A2, carbon steel is carbon steel and then there are those alloys.

These days I grind my chisels at 23 degrees or lower. Coarse stone at 30 degrees and polish at 32 degrees for paring. C 33 and P 35 for chopping. Penetration is excellent thank you and they are very sharp.

As for "lazy sharpening techniques" that's fighting talk as well as being transparent nonsense..........

David Charlesworth


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## Jacob (4 Aug 2011)

David C":2kcafpas said:


> The only sensible comment so far has come from ALF.


Some of the other comments were sensible too.


> .....These days I grind my chisels at 23 degrees or lower. Coarse stone at 30 degrees and polish at 32 degrees for paring. C 33 and P 35 for chopping. ...


If your finished edge is 32º you don't need to grind to 23º or lower. 30º will do it. NB Why 23º and not say 24 or 22?


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## Scouse (4 Aug 2011)

woodbloke":2f64bfj1 said:


> Probably why I don't understand the fascination with booties that others seem to like 'cos if I went round and delved into buckets of rust on a Sunday morning, most of it I'd classify as 'tat' and not worth the bother. If I saw stuff that I could actually use, that might be different...how many egg beaters do you really need? I have one which I've used occaisionally.
> Not having a pop at anyone who enjoys these sorts of things...just not for me - Rob



Speaking as somebody with one or two boot sale egg beaters... :-" , I'll freely admit that there is an element of collection, especially Millers Falls, for some reason, I just love 'em. Dunno why, just do. Having said that I've not paid more than a couple of quid for one and I do get a great deal of satisfaction from renovating a seized old tool and putting it back to work. As a result, I do have more tools than might be found in an average workshop. I'm extremely fortunate that most of them are very high quality, but I look on these tools as workhorses and an investment in my business; the old stuff I just like for it's sentimental and aesthetic appeal.

As Jimi said, the research aspect also appeals greatly to me too, and finding a tool over 100 years old for pennies is simply irresistible.

I think it depends upon the direction from which you approach the acquisition of tools; as a wood worker who doesn't own, let alone use, a single electric tool, a few egg beaters, planes etc set up with different bits/blades saves a bit of time...

Well, that's my excuse... :wink: :mrgreen: 

And with a nod to the OP, I use hairspray on my LNs.


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## Mr Ed (4 Aug 2011)

Jacob,

In the interests of science, how about you, Brian, Doug and I convene at my workshop for a chisel-off, followed by a few pints at the local? I suspect if we all bring our various chisels along we could compare the main options at one sitting. I have the A2 Lie-Nielsens, which I have been honing at 35 deg and chopping away in hardwoods without issue that I have noticed. I also have some Blue Spruce A2 paring chisels (bought on a whim and not used that much) which appear to be fine at 30 deg.

Assuming we don't forget the results of the research whilst in the pub, we can add some more comparative observation to the debate.

Ed


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## barkwindjammer (4 Aug 2011)

This I'd pay top dollar to see


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## Scouse (4 Aug 2011)

Mr Ed":16heuv4h said:


> I have the A2 Lie-Nielsens, which I have been honing at 35 deg and chopping away in hardwoods without issue that I have noticed.



Me too; I don't really understand why so many people are having such a difficult time with them.


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## Doug B (4 Aug 2011)

Mr Ed":b4r9772b said:


> In the interests of science, how about you, Brian, Doug and I convene at my workshop for a chisel-off,



I have a very old Mathieson socket chisel i could bring along, ironically the handle shows no signs of parting company with the socket :-" 

I also have an Eagers of Derby, both chisels blades are cast, it would be interesting to compare old with new.

I`ll bring my steel toe cap boots, from the sounds of things i may well need them. :lol: 


Cheers


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## Jacob (5 Aug 2011)

Scouse":2pubnl9w said:


> Mr Ed":2pubnl9w said:
> 
> 
> > I have the A2 Lie-Nielsens, which I have been honing at 35 deg and chopping away in hardwoods without issue that I have noticed.
> ...


I don't have an problem with them either - perhaps because I haven't got any. 
But they are expensive, heavily hyped and routinely complained about, in a way that other LN products aren't, even though they too are expensive and heavily hyped.
I don't have any prob with A2 either, on the two plane blades I have. One BU, one BD, both with planing angle about 50º, nearly a scrape. Both easy to grind (belt sander) and then hone (freehand).

Yes to a chisel-off, or perhaps just go straight to the pub?
How would you set up a comparative test? Easy for a mortice but less so for paring?

NB the ordinary so called OBM chisel should knock spots of the LN mortice chisels as the LNs have parallel sides - basically a design mistake (along with all the other LN chisel probs I presume :roll: )


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## matthewwh (5 Aug 2011)

David C":20zv6n4f said:


> As for "lazy sharpening techniques" that's fighting talk as well as being transparent nonsense..........
> David Charlesworth



Misunderstanding: Lazy sharpening habits as in the common misconception that by selecting A2 you won't need to sharpen your chisels as frequently and therefore they reduce the need for efficient sharpening regime. 

I'm all for laziness where sharpening is concerned as long as it is satisfied by selecting a method that makes it as effortless as possible, rather than by avoidance or procrastination.

Doug, 

In fairness it may be worth considering in your Mathieson comparison that the older chisel has had plenty of time to 'bed in' with it's socket - years of expansion and contraction cycles as well as impacts etc. The LN will probably be just as good a fit in a few years time.


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## Mr Ed (5 Aug 2011)

matthewwh":2e9p0g07 said:


> In fairness it may be worth considering in your Mathieson comparison that the older chisel has had plenty of time to 'bed in' with it's socket - years of expansion and contraction cycles as well as impacts etc. The LN will probably be just as good a fit in a few years time.



In 6 years use, the handles have never fallen of my LN's. In any case, I was intending the trial to be more about how they are to use, not to see if we can make the handles drop off.

Ed


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## Doug B (5 Aug 2011)

Mr Ed":s4naxper said:


> not to see if we can make the handles drop off.
> 
> Ed




Spoil sport :lol: :lol:


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## Jacob (5 Aug 2011)

Mr Ed":2nukuxpg said:


> ...
> In 6 years use, the handles have never fallen of my LN's....


Is that a challenge?
Actually I now recall that the handle of my humongous 1/2" OBM came loose at the beginning. This was probably because it seemed to have spent half its life in a pond. I cured it by trimming a bit off (so the tang would tighten in further) and filling the hole with linseed oil.


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## Doug B (5 Aug 2011)

matthewwh":1imkhk2j said:


> Doug,
> 
> In fairness it may be worth considering in your Mathieson comparison that the older chisel has had plenty of time to 'bed in' with it's socket - years of expansion and contraction cycles as well as impacts etc. The LN will probably be just as good a fit in a few years time.




I don`t doubt it Matthew, i was teasing.
I also imagine that given the price of the LN, Jacob`s point is valid, you would most likely keep the LN in as dry an envioronment as you can which will no doubt result in the handles shrinking & becoming loose.
Prior to me being given the Mathieson it was kept in a shed & was in shall we say a slightly :-" un-loved condition, i`m sure given time & my centrally heated workshop the handle will probably loosen.


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## jimi43 (5 Aug 2011)

In ten years use I have never had a SS cap iron fall on my toe...but I am told they do with regularity! :mrgreen: 

Ooops wrong thread...and not a sensible post at all...silly me... 8) 

Jim


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## Doug B (5 Aug 2011)

jimi43":3b9skb1b said:


> In ten years use I have never had a SS cap iron fall on my toe...but I am told they do with regularity! :mrgreen:
> 
> Ooops wrong thread...and not a sensible post at all...silly me... 8)
> 
> Jim



I never realized how much danger my toes were in with this woodworking lark, & there was me thinking that that bare foot axe wielding log straightener was putting his tutsies at risk.


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## jimi43 (5 Aug 2011)

Doug B":8zcadf34 said:


> jimi43":8zcadf34 said:
> 
> 
> > In ten years use I have never had a SS cap iron fall on my toe...but I am told they do with regularity! :mrgreen:
> ...



I hear tell you can trap your fingers under a honing jig roller too...

The list is endless.... :twisted: 

Jim


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## Mr Ed (5 Aug 2011)

Jacob":1gkgb5xn said:


> Mr Ed":1gkgb5xn said:
> 
> 
> > ...
> ...



No it's not, I like the handles where they are on the ends of the chisels


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## Doug B (5 Aug 2011)

jimi43":2be1863r said:


> I hear tell you can trap your fingers under a honing jig roller too...
> 
> 
> 
> Jim




I imagine that is one thing I (nor Jacob) will ever do..... :lol:


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## David C (5 Aug 2011)

One reason for wishing to change handles, is to simulate a long paring chisel. These are more like Japanese than the patternmaker's long paring chisels.

See my blog. http;//www,davidcharlesworth.co.uk/blog/

David


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## Doug B (5 Aug 2011)

http://www.davidcharlesworth.co.uk/blog/


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## David C (5 Aug 2011)

Thanks Doug.


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## Jacob (5 Aug 2011)

David C":nft9qkcy said:


> One reason for wishing to change handles, is to simulate a long paring chisel. These are more like Japanese than the patternmaker's long paring chisels.
> 
> See my blog. http;//www,davidcharlesworth.co.uk/blog/
> 
> David


Yebbut chisels are cheap (normal ones anyway) so if you really need a long handled paring chisel (who does :roll: ) it'd make more sense to simply acquire one, rather than having interchangeable handles on all your chisels. 
I can see the commercial possibilities - every chisel having a set of handles of different lengths, every one of which could be lost quite easily.
You used to be able to get Woolworths cheapo saw kits with several blades fitting the one handle. They were a rubbish idea too!
Basically handles shouldn't drop off. Trying to find a justification for this just won't wash. We are not as daft as we look!


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## AndyT (6 Aug 2011)

Jacob":1cgkgdfs said:


> You used to be able to get Woolworths cheapo saw kits with several blades fitting the one handle. They were a rubbish idea too!



Oi! Jacob - who are you calling cheap?!! :lol: 

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/hand-saw-opportunity-t52893.html


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## Jacob (6 Aug 2011)

AndyT":2cwjs98n said:


> Jacob":2cwjs98n said:
> 
> 
> > You used to be able to get Woolworths cheapo saw kits with several blades fitting the one handle. They were a rubbish idea too!
> ...


 :lol: 
At least the handle is_ supposed_ to come off!


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## Jacob (6 Aug 2011)

Jacob":2oeqb16s said:


> AndyT":2oeqb16s said:
> 
> 
> > Jacob":2oeqb16s said:
> ...


Just had a brain wave :shock: - it's so obvious - if handles are all detachable then you only need ONE for ALL your chisels, or perhaps 2; long and short.


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