# Beginners question about finishing oak for a chopping board



## Kryten (27 Apr 2011)

I have a nice slice of seasoned oak, about 300mm x 45mm with no bark and was wondering the best way to finish it for a chopping / cheese board. It has been cut with a large band saw so the surfaces are smooth enough. The edge however is rough and obviously has small splits from the drying out process, so do I need to remove the rough edge and seal it? And if so what materials does anyone recommend? And how do I prepare the surfaces to make them hygienic and washable?
Thanks for any assistance!
Kryten


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## adidat (27 Apr 2011)

i would personally refrain from using oak. because of the tannin in the wood. but if you wanted to carry on, a simple pin in a piece of mdf clamped to the bed of the bandsaw would give you a perfect (ish) circle


adidat


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## Kryten (27 Apr 2011)

Thanks Adidat for the quick response. Forgive my ignorance here, but what effect does the tannin have say on meat or cheese? And I'm not concerned with a perfect circle more the way to treat the cutting surfaces and edges to make them serviceable. Thanks again.
Kryten.


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## Harbo (27 Apr 2011)

I bought an oak bread board in 1967 which is still being used quite frequently - bare wood no finish, quick scrub in soapy water is all it needs. No problems with tannins.

Rod


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## Kryten (27 Apr 2011)

Thanks Rod - very helpful.
Kryten


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## Jacob (27 Apr 2011)

Harbo":2viw1jr5 said:


> ...... bare wood no finish, quick scrub in soapy water is all it needs. No problems with tannins.
> 
> Rod


Or a bit of raw linseed oil, or olive oil.
But it's doomed to split, break in half even. Sealing the edges won't have any effect. You might as well wait until it splits and then cut into two and join together again.
.


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## paulm (27 Apr 2011)

I would be tempted to soak it liberally with liquid paraffin (or the posh version of Chestnut 's food safe finish), to try and help avoid it drying out and splitting from the central pith outwards.......

Cheers, Paul


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## Harbo (27 Apr 2011)

320x225x20 - no splits, cracks or breaks.

In my experience oils can go rancid so I prefer not to treat.

Rod


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## condeesteso (27 Apr 2011)

Hi Kryten - That is a really lovely slice of oak. But I think you have asked more questions here than you may realise ! The single biggest unknown is how dry the oak is before you start. From the pic it looks like it's outside... it needs to adjust to indoor heated (i.e. very dry) conditions. Only then do you discover what may happen. Sadly, the odds are it will split / check around the perimeter, and those splits could go deep into the centre. If this was mine, I would first take it to where it will live (kitchen etc) and leave it for at least 1 month, possibly a lot more. If and when it splits it will go from the outside in - but it dries through the end-grain, so actually seal the two flat faces (pva glue, melted candle whatever is around).

Be patient, as the wood has taken years to get to you!! - and as for finishing, the less the better - it's Oak, so I'm with Rod... nothing would be enough for me. Tannin... ignore it, it is in your tea after all, what's the problem


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## Kryten (27 Apr 2011)

Gents - all very helpful and good advice I'm sure. This actually is the second slice, the first is the end of the cut tree, so has been more exposed to the elements as it sat out this winter and last summer. This has cracked quite badly and I know from experience from all the chainsawing and wood storage I do, that severe cracking occurs in the drying process. If as Condeesteso suggests I seal the flat surfaces, presumably after a month or two it's safe to remove this - yes?

The irony is that I have just split for burning next winter about 3 tons of this oak and there were bigger trunks than this.

Thanks again for all your help chaps - much appreciated.
Kryters


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## condeesteso (27 Apr 2011)

Sorry Kryters - you already know what the issues are, didn't realise before. So your challenge is to dry this without it cracking. I'd certainly seal both faces, and slow-dry, and once stable then remove all sealers. I'd be ready to be really patient too, and that isn't in my nature. You'll know what to do. It's a beaut, so good luck. Douglas


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## cambournepete (27 Apr 2011)

Harbo":12tkbrnn said:


> In my experience oils can go rancid so I prefer not to treat.


I regularly (yearly?) use ordinary vegetable oil on our chopping boards and have never had it go rancid.

Maybe soaking in vegetable oil would help stop any splitting?


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## Kryten (27 Apr 2011)

I don't think the inner rings are completely free of nature, but almost. I will keep indoors now and pay close attention to any change. Maybe liberal applications of mineral oil might stop it cracking?

Sincere thanks guys for all your help and advice.

Kryten


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