# I've got a new box idea!



## devonwoody (28 Jul 2007)

A box really too far.!!!!!!!!!!

Using more of my scrap pieces it's going to have the facing look of chipboard, wood will go every way.

Any suggestions!!!!!!!!1


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## jasonB (28 Jul 2007)

Chop all your scraps into little bits then mix with casting resin, pour onto a flat mould then treat them like solid surface material. I've seen a few wood turnings done this way - round twigs set in black resin then turned once set.

Jason


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## devonwoody (28 Jul 2007)

Thanks for that Jason. 

I had had two lagers when I thought of my idea at first but now with your tip I can see through the mist. :wink:


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## devonwoody (28 Jul 2007)

jasonB":1wgsx7zv said:


> Chop all your scraps into little bits then mix with casting resin, pour onto a flat mould then treat them like solid surface material. I've seen a few wood turnings done this way - round twigs set in black resin then turned once set.
> 
> Jason



Looks like this might be the stuff. Concerned about the quantity required etc. I will most probably give the suppliers a telephone call nedt week.

http://www.resins-online.com/resin-onli ... .php?id=40


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## jasonB (28 Jul 2007)

Tiranti are good for casting resins etc.

And I had 65kg of resin from here a few weeks ago, not sure what they keep in casting resin though.

Jason


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## devonwoody (28 Jul 2007)

Thanks Jason. I have bookmarked items to follow up next week

A 9"x4"x 3"H box I estimate has a surface area of 130 sq ins. including lid ~A base plate of 6mm ply and 7mm thick timber blocks would mean an open cubic measure of 33 cu.inches less timber blocks taking up 80%, would need resin to accommodate around 7 cu.inches. 
Any idea how mus resin mix is needed for 7 cu. inches?

Base of box not included in calculations.


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## jasonB (29 Jul 2007)

130sq inches equals 812.5 sq cm, if we said the "boards" were 10mm or 1.0cm thick we would need 812cc which is 0.812 litres.

As the resin has a SG of approx 1.25 then .812x1.25 = 1.01kg of resin.

As at least 50% of this volume will be chunks of wood then buying 1kg of resin sould be enough.

For the sides it may be easier to cast them as a block then resaw on the bandsaw.

Had another thought on the "chipboard" look, why not make a box, cover with PVA and sprinkle with sawdust, would have the added bonus of hiding any iffy joints  :wink: 

Jason


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## devonwoody (29 Jul 2007)

No lager this morning, just serious thinking, the word mosaic comes to mind.

Thanks for your calculations.


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## devonwoody (29 Jul 2007)

If any forum member wishes to post a piece of timber to include in the mosaic around postage stamp size if you like signed, (not less than 7mm thick) aiming for 7 mm thickness of mosaic.


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## Benchwayze (29 Jul 2007)

jasonB":27q1gm5b said:


> Chop all your scraps into little bits then mix with casting resin, pour onto a flat mould then treat them like solid surface material. I've seen a few wood turnings done this way - round twigs set in black resin then turned once set.
> 
> Jason



You can also throw in a few brass and/or copper filings. Okay you will need to hone your tools again, but the metallic finish looks original.

 
John


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## devonwoody (29 Jul 2007)

Made a start on the mosaic box, The first piece of timber to form underlay of mosaic blocks a piece of 5 ply 6mm thick around 32” long 5” wide prepared and mouldings in sapele for top and bottom of facing pieces also cut, dressed to 8mm thick and glued in position on former together with the first end piece. (This end piece will have to be cut off and a longer piece fitted so that it will go to the top and bottom edges) The sapele came from our old window frames and over the past year I have not seen one knot or flaw in this timber. 
Photographs below in sequence.


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## devonwoody (30 Jul 2007)

Day 2.
Went to my scrapbox again and took out any piece that had got a face dressing.






Took them to the bandsaw and set the fence just over 7mm. and proceeded to resaw a selection of timbers.






The sawing went without any mishap every piece has cut cleanly, pics. show left the pieces to be used and the right hand the waste, I suppose I shall have to put them in the scrapbox in case I need some filling in bits. 






Laid the scraps on the former to ensure there would be enough cut to cover same.






The first 9” of mosaic.






Any comments or suggestions on appearance of mosaic appreciated.


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## motownmartin (30 Jul 2007)

You are very creative, I can't wait for the next instalment  

Martin


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## devonwoody (31 Jul 2007)

Thinking about the blocks, I'm wondering if I ought to cut a batch of blocks in a haphazard manner and make them fit the space.
The blocks in the picture above were cut to fit the space.
So today I will try the second method. 

Also fitting them in to a frame space means a straight line is created, so might lay blocks out on some ply and then they would be perhaps more eye appealing if the framing was then put down.(after a cut line)


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## NickWelford (31 Jul 2007)

Perhaps we could send you some scraps - I'd include a relief carving that would appear on the outside....... 

Come to think of it, a composite box with various donated pieces might make quite a nice item to raffle for charity or something.......


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## devonwoody (31 Jul 2007)

Thanks Nick.

I will pm you.

I am quite happy to give the box either to the forum or what ever moderators suggest. 

I am making one for the Auistralian forum and promises of timber have been sent to me.


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## devonwoody (31 Jul 2007)

Would be delighted to receive any small pieces of timber that have a dressed face and between 7.2mm to 8mm. thick. 

John Jowitt
104 duchy drive.
Paignton. devon
TQ31EX


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## devonwoody (31 Jul 2007)

I finished cutting mosaics for one box today, These pieces were all cut to fit base former.






I am expecting to receive some timber offcuts from forum members so another box will be made in addition to above. 

This first box comprises.
Oak, sweet chesnut, sycamore, br. mahogany, black walnut, sapele, teak. 
All off cuts, and some from that diagonal box last week.
I'll never be able to throw a bit of scrap again. :wink:


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## motownmartin (31 Jul 2007)

Blimey, it all started out by getting rid of your scrap, now everybody is sending you their scrap :lol: 

Nice work Devonwoody

Martin


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## NickWelford (2 Aug 2007)

What's the timeframe for this?


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## devonwoody (2 Aug 2007)

I have got family visitors (holidays) staying a few days, so things have come to a stop.

I have a box in progress at the moment , the first as a trial run. So I would be quite happy to make a further box using donated pieces.

So shall we say using donated pieces after 21 st Aug.


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## woodbloke (2 Aug 2007)

DW - merely a suggestion, but instead of laying the pieces long grain down, have you thought about laying them _end_ grain down. Might be a nice idea to get all your timbers (donated and your own stock) and cut them into small cubes, say 6 or 8mm square. These could then be arranged on a piece of ply, using all the different colours to form a definite mosaic pattern (like wot the Romans did). I would initially work out the design on paper, with the colours that were needed, transfer the design to some ply and then use a slow setting epoxy (_original_ Araldite) to glue the pieces to the substrate in the correct place. The gaps between the individual blocks (once the glue had set) could then be filled with more epoxy to form a solid sheet and then you would need to get out the orbital sander and dust mask to level the whole panel off, finish by hand sanding. It's only an idea but I think would look very effective - Rob


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## devonwoody (2 Aug 2007)

Thanks for your idea, I guess that I could saw off end grain blocks off of small batten around 7mm and that could possibly look something like harequin pattern. 

Looks like I shall be busy. 

Havent got any 
ash, elm, plane, yew and some of the garden fruit tree species. :wink:


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## devonwoody (5 Aug 2007)

Returned to the workshop for a few hours today and then had to retire, it went over 90F in there.

However all sides haved now been glued to former and await cutting off as sections.


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## devonwoody (7 Aug 2007)

The sections were cut from ply former and faces were then sanded with an orbital sander, to be honest this was not a 100% success, some areas have sanded deeper that other parts. I did not fancy putting the pieces through the thicknesser either with grain directions as they are. So next time I shall have to think a little deeper. 

Next step was putting the section ends against a 45% router cutter bit and that was a success. I had also decided that the ends would look a little bland and have not cut all the way to the edge because I am going to insert contrasting stringers down the join. 

I will most probably line the top edges of the box to hide the ply former as well.

Glued the box up in parts this time, on a flat board using blocks to ensure squareness of project. this also worked well and lightweigt clamps were used at top edges.








Picture taken this morning with glue set and waiting for a decent hour to go out to the workshop to continue.


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## devonwoody (7 Aug 2007)

Got a bit more done today.

Cleaned up the corners with a rebate router bit to around 4mm.






Then decided to sharpen all edge tools. Used three of those cheapo diamond plates (now 5 years old and still going strong) but then stuck down 4 strips of wet & dry to a sheet of glass. 3C, 6C, 12K & 25K.
Its the first time I have gone on to W&D and its certainly worth the extra effort. 
The corner stringers were awaiting glue to set at the sharpening time.






Then prepared the strips pictured below in readiness for the lid to bi used on box.






.My neighbour called in and said he is off to Alaska,(going to see it whilst there is still some ice I suppose) so when I enquired of his route I asked if he could bring me back some American tools as the exchange rate is good for us at the moment.

Cant think what to get at the moment but he will be in Vancouver and L.A.


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## engineer one (7 Aug 2007)

woody now you have opened the door, or should i say lid.

can you imagine how hard we are going to push you down the slope :twisted: 

interesting thought, need to check whether canadian prices are as low as american ones :? 

some lee valley/ veritas stuff would be a good place to start :roll: 

nice box

paul :wink:


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## devonwoody (8 Aug 2007)

I have a confession to make, no woodwork today, I went timber hunting!











Took a trip upto Yandles in Somerset and collected 12 different hardwoods, total haul 4 cu.ft. (cost just over the ton.)


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## mr (8 Aug 2007)

I do like to see those big lumps of purple heart it makes me feel wanton in a woody way. 
Cheers Mike


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## devonwoody (9 Aug 2007)

Thursday morning and it got to lunchtime without any work on the box done, I decided I had to tidy up my workshop, even took the carpets up and beat them. 

After lunch returned to the lid and I am using veneers this time, again using up offcuts. The top (outside lid) was veneered first and stuck down with neat pvc glue applied to both surfaces and then taped, the rear of the lid was then rebated to drop in box and then veneered with larger pieces of veneer. 
Veneering is not recommended after having 2 pints of wallop (with lunch) I nearly caught the chisel once as it was falling but stopped in time. 
The glued lid with veneers was sandwiched between two old drawfronts and trapped in the vice together with clamps under terrific pressure.
Thirty minutes later removing boards from vice and they had completely stuck down.
They have cleaned up quite nicely (no pics of that today but will show later)
Photographs of wip today without clean up of veneers.


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## DaveL (9 Aug 2007)

devonwoody":3n1zhar1 said:


> .... stuck down with neat pvc glue ....


Sounds a bit kinky you'll be using leather next. :roll: :wink:


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## devonwoody (10 Aug 2007)

DaveL":2ahb5oep said:


> devonwoody":2ahb5oep said:
> 
> 
> > .... stuck down with neat pvc glue ....
> ...



typo or wallop 

pva


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## devonwoody (10 Aug 2007)

The lid has been veneered both sides and cleaned up also the lid has been rebated around all edges in preparation for a beading to be attached. 

There is one dirty join on veneer between the walnut and a light coloured veneer but I think I will live with this one rather than cut out and replace with a fresh piece.


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## devonwoody (10 Aug 2007)

Got to that final day today.

Not without some mishaps, 
The lid was completed, beading added all round and stringers put to corners to match box. A lot of sanding.
Base was fitted. (in the top box area  )and had to be relocated to the bottom. 
Then dropped the lid on workshop floor and had to start sanding again. Also when cutting corners out for stringers on lid, the chisel over did a cut, which necessitated a glue and clamp up. 

But in the end I am quite satisfied to show the box.






So will give a coat of shellac and wax polish and add to my collection.


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## devonwoody (15 Aug 2007)

Got the finish on the box over the past two days, gave it a coat of clear shellac and then waxed polish.
















Thanks all for looking and your helpful comments.
I have got a selection of timbers (over 25 species) from friends and my own purchases so hopefully I can produce more boxes and to a higher standard in the future.


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## engineer one (15 Aug 2007)

amazing how the varnish livens it up even more than you might imagine 8) 

nice work mate

paul :wink:


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