# Power tool cable management



## RobinBHM (20 Mar 2021)

I'm looking for ideas on how to make a decluttered workspace set up.

I'm thinking of: cutting off the power leads and fitting quick connectors (Festool seem to have got my idea.....)


Any ideas of how to manage the cable?
I was wondering about a sliding rail for the cable overhead


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## pe2dave (20 Mar 2021)

Try a location above the workbench, work out the max 'stretch' needed for each of your tools over the main bench, using
a piece of rope?
Second one for use on an extension lead.


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## Spectric (20 Mar 2021)

Hi

This problem of cable management has already been solved, it is called cordless tools. I like corded tools and do not mind the nice round yellow connectors.
6ft of power cable will always be 6ft of power cable whether it is one length or has an inline connector. The one thing you learn in electrical engineering is too minimise the number of connectors used because they just add something else to go wrong, and the inline connector will also be something else to snag. I can also add that the one thing I really dislike about my Domino 700 is that the cable plugs into it, I would much prefer a decent fixed cable via a gland. 

The sliding rail cable management is called a festoon system using catenary trollies and often used on gantry cranes, another option is the drum roller, similar to what people use for garden hoses and also used for airlines.


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## Phil Pascoe (20 Mar 2021)

I put flat connectors on mine years ago when I was using them at work in a place that had a far from adequate number of sockets - one thing I would say is to either cut the leads very close or more than four feet away as they get snagged on the edges of sheet stuff if they're anywhere in between. Ultimately I didn't find them very practical.


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## Ttrees (20 Mar 2021)

pe2dave said:


> Try a location above the workbench, work out the max 'stretch' needed for each of your tools over the main bench, using
> a piece of rope?
> Second one for use on an extension lead.


+1 Cheap bungee cords of all varieties from the pound shops make adjusting height easier also.


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## artie (20 Mar 2021)

Spectric said:


> The one thing you learn in electrical engineering is too minimise the number of connectors used because they just add something else to go wrong,



I bought a used bosch blue jigsaw a number of years ago, it was in great condition. The cable had been cut to the stump and a type of connector that I had never seen, used to connect to a 20 ft cable.

After a few months it gave trouble, it didn't trip the breaker but dropped power and dimmed the lights when used.

Done again thought I , it was probably just botch up so he could unload it.

Long story short, I found the fault was in the connector and a new cable fixed the prob and it's been going fine since.

I'm not a fan of extra / unnecessary connectors.


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## Sideways (20 Mar 2021)

I would say don't.
I tried this idea on a bunch of my tools 20 years ago using a high quality connector design that is smaller than the neutrik and very reliable
I've gradually returned them all to captive, extra long, H05 or H07 grade rubber flex.

The issue is that a connector, however good, on the cord close to the tool tends to catch on the edges of your work and your bench.
Having the connector built into the tool doesn't create this issue.
It's an appealing idea but *"been there, done that, wasn't convinced"*.
Spend less money replacing the factory PVC mains cables with longer ones made from 2 or 3 core H07RNF rubber in the correct cross sectional area. They don't cost much, handle well and make a corded tool nicer to use.


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## EddyCurrent (20 Mar 2021)

This is what I use for power tool strorage; Look what I've found at IKEA - trofast comination
1. The cable just goes in the box along with the tool, no winding up etc.
2. Any accessories with the tool also stay in the box.
3. The whole box with contents can be removed and taken to the job

Edit: IKEA put those words in the link not me !


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## TheUnicorn (20 Mar 2021)

I


EddyCurrent said:


> This is what I use for power tool strorage; Look what I've found at IKEA - trofast comination
> 1. The cable just goes in the box along with the tool, no winding up etc.
> 2. Any accessories with the tool also stay in the box.
> 3. The whole box with contents can be removed and taken to the job
> ...


I use either the case the tool comes in or a 'really useful box'


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## ian33a (21 Mar 2021)

Perhaps there are a couple of inter related issues here : One is the reduction of the number of leads in the workshop and the other is the routing of those leads so that they don't get in the way. 

I agree that the Festool approach is excellent but, not all of us, me included, can afford or want to standardise on Festool across the workshop.

My workshop is a double garage and I have fitted a counter balanced rotating boom to the base of the door lifter. Primarily this serves as a system to route a dust extractor pipe between the NV750 dust extractor and anything that I care to connect to it. I rotates and reaches most of the garage. I've also added a couple of 13A sockets to the end of it. That way, I can plug anything that I am using at a given moment in, have over head power connectivity and dust extraction. This largely does away with cable snagging on the edges of benches because the cables drop from above.

It doesn't take away the need to have loads of trailing power leads but I am loathe to cut the leads on my tools and standardise on connectors as it may void any active warranties. I do agree though, if I were to go down the standard cable route, super flexible rubber cables are a must - power tool cable as supplied as standard being very variable in quality and manoeuvre ability.


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## robgul (21 Mar 2021)

Back in the day when I had B&D corded power tools I refitted much longer cords to them - whilst that may seem to fly in the face of the OP it did make them much more manageable. 

For my current corded tools, rather better quality, I did consider cutting the cords and fitting connectors but decided against it except for my track saw. The saw has a dust extraction hose with the power cable running along it with cable ties to attach. By fitting the cord connector I can easily disconnect the hose + cable combo and then use the saw elsewhere (for large sheets I have a fold up bench that I have to use outside)


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## HamsterJam (21 Mar 2021)

Saw on the internet somewhere, a swinging boom mounted on hinges from the wall and over a workbench to carry power and dust extraction for hand held power tools. Looked like a practical solution.


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## Doug71 (21 Mar 2021)

HamsterJam said:


> Saw on the internet somewhere, a swinging boom mounted on hinges from the wall and over a workbench to carry power and dust extraction for hand held power tools. Looked like a practical solution.



I made one of those, works really well. Most of my stuff is Festool so the plug-it lead makes it really easy to swap between tools. I added a plug-it socket to my Makita sander to make that work with "the system".


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## RobinBHM (21 Mar 2021)

Many thanks everybody, lots of useful pointers.

I hadn't considered the annoyance factor of having a connector catching on stuff.

However Im looking to incorporate power lead and vacuum hose, so maybe that issue becomes a bit different.

Has anybody tried hosewraps?






HoseWraps


HoseWraps - Designed to cover the ridges on suction hoses to help prevent snagging and to protect edges. Available in different colours and sizes



www.hosewraps.com





It's painful using sanders with a power cable and vacuum hose when doing loads of parts for hours.


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## RobinBHM (21 Mar 2021)

Doug71 said:


> I made one of those, works really well


Fantastic!

Thanks so much for the pic, that's helped visualise it really well.

At first glance it looks like it's too restrictive as there's not much slack....but once consideration is given to the overhead articulated boom, I can start to see the area it covers.


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## Spectric (21 Mar 2021)

RobinBHM said:


> It's painful using sanders with a power cable and vacuum hose when doing loads of parts for hours.


Eventually it will build up your strength and you will not feel any pain. I have had similar experiences where you think this is just going to wear me down but you get to the point where it just becomes the norm. I can remember as an electricians mate, many many years ago being given several bundles of steel conduit and a sample piece, the task was to produce dozens of these double offset conduit lengths for the electricians to fit and they had to be perfect, god help me if I forgot to debur any of them. This was in the days of hand benders and hand threading with tallow. 

Also welding, with gas or TIG you wrap the hoses/cables round your arm to support so best to just build up them muscles.


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## RobinBHM (21 Mar 2021)

Spectric said:


> Eventually it will build up your strength and you will not feel any pain. I have had similar experiences where you think this is just going to wear me down but you get to the point where it just becomes the norm. I can remember as an electricians mate, many many years ago being given several bundles of steel conduit and a sample piece, the task was to produce dozens of these double offset conduit lengths for the electricians to fit and they had to be perfect, god help me if I forgot to debur any of them. This was in the days of hand benders and hand threading with tallow.
> 
> Also welding, with gas or TIG you wrap the hoses/cables round your arm to support so best to just build up them muscles.



Actually I meant painful as in irritating....apologies for my poor use of language (I was falling into yoof speak)

The reason I'm interested in this is I am working with a friend to build a shaker door and face frame manufacturing cell with lean construction strategies.


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## Spectric (21 Mar 2021)

For a semi production workshop Dougs idea may help but you will find it is the weight of the tools that give the bigger problem rather than the cables. In a production enviroment, ie assembly line what they do with heavy tools is put them on a counter balance so they are easily manouvered but do not feel as heavy. 

I have made a few shaker doors with a domino 700, not that heavy unless you were using it all day long and I am no spring chicken so now I tend to use it on the baseplate rather than the adjustable fence, I think apart from the weight issue it also once setup gives me better and more repeatable accuracy unless you want to shell out £300 for a jig.


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## Rorschach (21 Mar 2021)

I think it's a great idea for tools that are also going to have a vacuum hose attached, the hose will always be the awkward part, not the cable/connector. For general use tools though just stick with the supplied cable.


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## RobinBHM (21 Mar 2021)

Spectric said:


> For a semi production workshop Dougs idea may help but you will find it is the weight of the tools that give the bigger problem rather than the cables. In a production enviroment, ie assembly line what they do with heavy tools is put them on a counter balance so they are easily manouvered but do not feel as heavy.
> 
> I have made a few shaker doors with a domino 700, not that heavy unless you were using it all day long and I am no spring chicken so now I tend to use it on the baseplate rather than the adjustable fence, I think apart from the weight issue it also once setup gives me better and more repeatable accuracy unless you want to shell out £300 for a jig.


many thanks for that -Ive had a look at tool balances -it looks like they could be used as part of the set up quite well.


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## Fergie 307 (21 Mar 2021)

Sideways said:


> I would say don't.
> I tried this idea on a bunch of my tools 20 years ago using a high quality connector design that is smaller than the neutrik and very reliable
> I've gradually returned them all to captive, extra long, H05 or H07 grade rubber flex.
> 
> ...


agree entirely. Did the same myself years ago, and soon changedl back as it was actually a PITA. If the cable is short enough to make the idea work then the connector is too close and gets in the way. Long enough for it not to be an issue and you may as well not have bothered.


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## HamsterJam (21 Mar 2021)

Doug71 said:


> I made one of those, works really well. Most of my stuff is Festool so the plug-it lead makes it really easy to swap between tools. I added a plug-it socket to my Makita sander to make that work with "the system".
> 
> View attachment 106375



Ooo that’s fancy - a triple hinged version


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## TheUnicorn (21 Mar 2021)

My bugbare with cables, (quality aside)both attached to the tool and on extension leads, is that they are always black, which is so stupid. in either a professional or amatuer environment, a trailing lead is a safety hazard, and so should be bright and visable, B and D used to (still do?) have nice orange cables, and I've got a masterplug splashproof extension reel that is a nice lime green, but everything else is a nice uniform, invisable black. An excellent choice left trailing on the floor attatched to a powered blade!!!.


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## flying haggis (21 Mar 2021)

most of my corded tools have 25 ft long orange cables. 

car boots are a good source of long lengths that once used to power a long dead cheap flymo!!

I hate having to use extension leads where ever possible


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## EddyCurrent (21 Mar 2021)

flying haggis said:


> most of my corded tools have 25 ft long orange cables.
> 
> car boots are a good source of long lengths that once used to power a long dead cheap flymo!!
> 
> I hate having to use extension leads where ever possible



Check they have an earth wire, some were two core only. I realise the vast majority of power tools today are double insulated but in some cases an earth wire is needed.


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## ian33a (21 Mar 2021)

Here's the one that I have built (and referred to in an earlier post).

The bit at the far rear of the boom holds a load of lead roll. This is needed because the boom arm is pretty heavy and needs to be counterbalanced. The centre of rotation is immediately below the 13A sockets mounted vertically. The strange box affair supports the pivot and helps to minimise twist.

If it had been mounted onto a wall, the hinge and support bracket would have had to have been beefy enough to support that weight instead.

The power tool dust extractor is far in the distance, the silver pipe goes down to an NV750 and is 11m in length.


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## TheUnicorn (21 Mar 2021)

EddyCurrent said:


> Check they have an earth wire, some were two core only. I realise the vast majority of power tools today are double insulated but in some cases an earth wire is needed.


I was going to say the same thing


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## 1steven (22 Mar 2021)

EddyCurrent said:


> This is what I use for power tool strorage; Look what I've found at IKEA - trofast comination
> 1. The cable just goes in the box along with the tool, no winding up etc.
> 2. Any accessories with the tool also stay in the box.
> 3. The whole box with contents can be removed and taken to the job
> ...


That is a good idea and you can get lids.


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## artie (22 Mar 2021)

1steven said:


> That is a good idea and you can get lids.


*We've turned up no matches for "trofast comination*


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## 1steven (23 Mar 2021)

Look under toy storage


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## TheUnicorn (23 Mar 2021)

odd, that link worked fine a couple of days ago


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## Sachakins (23 Mar 2021)

1steven said:


> Look under toy storage


Or just change the spelling from "Comination" to combination.


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## 1steven (24 Mar 2021)

No delivery available that rules me out


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## EddyCurrent (24 Mar 2021)

artie said:


> *We've turned up no matches for "trofast comination*


*It's a link and I said in my post that IKEA put the words there not me. I've just tried the link and it works.
If you don't want to click on the link then go to the IKEA website and search for "TROFAST COMBINATION"*


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## 1steven (24 Mar 2021)

Link worked for me Eddy


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## artie (24 Mar 2021)

EddyCurrent said:


> *It's a link and I said in my post that IKEA put the words there not me. I've just tried the link and it works.
> If you don't want to click on the link then go to the IKEA website and search for "TROFAST COMBINATION"*


I did click the link a number of times and that was the message I received.

Funny though it's working today.

No need to shout.


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## ChrisMa (27 Mar 2021)

Doug71 said:


> I made one of those, works really well. Most of my stuff is Festool so the plug-it lead makes it really easy to swap between tools. I added a plug-it socket to my Makita sander to make that work with "the system".
> 
> View attachment 106375


Where did you get the Festool "plug-it" socket from ? sounds like an excellent solution for woodworkers who are "mainly-Festool".


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## Doug71 (27 Mar 2021)

ChrisMa said:


> Where did you get the Festool "plug-it" socket from ? sounds like an excellent solution for woodworkers who are "mainly-Festool".



They are a standard part available all over the place, for example 









Festool 420mm Plug-It Conversion Kit - Protrade


Festool 420mm Plug-It Conversion Kit - we stock a huge range of tools & consumables for professional trades. Free delivery on orders over £50!




www.protrade.co.uk





I couldn't manage without the plug-it thing, it just becomes part of your workflow.


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## 1steven (27 Mar 2021)

Was thinking about the old flymo connecters £5 a set on ebay


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