# Garage door locks.



## WoodAddict (15 Mar 2010)

The new workshop I mentioned before has a simple garage door with the usual turn handle lock in the middle. It has a padlock on the top but doesn't look very secure to me. I'm not moving in until easter, but I'll have a few bits by then to put in there so I'm hoping to get something on fairly quickly.

There's loads of different types available of all different shapes and sizes..... does anybody have any reccomendations or "steer clears"?

Thanks
Paul


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## matt (15 Mar 2010)

Up and over by the sounds of things. Is it the only access? If not, then I'd secure from inside and use the other entrance. If it is the only access then yes, the existing locks suck and can be opened very easily. You can fit bolts and padlocks to the lower edge but it's not an especially good solution.


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## WoodAddict (15 Mar 2010)

up and over type yes. and sadly it is the only entrance so security has to be on the outside.


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## Shultzy (15 Mar 2010)

See here

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ENFIELD-GARAGE-DO ... 0430204186


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## Setch (16 Mar 2010)

http://www.saundersonsecurity.co.uk/aca ... Locks.html

We tend to fit these, rather than garage defenders. They're easy to use, can be opened from both sides, and don't scream 'look at me - I'm full of swag!' to anyone scoping out a bunch of garages.

Whatever you fit is really just a deterent, 'cos the door is essentially tin foil with some strips of tin can to stiffen it up (!) so any determined theif can just fold it out of the way if they don't mind a little noise, but extra locks are essential, because the t-handles on up and over doors can be opened in 10 seconds by picking, and require no skill whatsoever.


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## Steve Jones (16 Mar 2010)

Have a google for garage door defender, I've fitted several of these on neighbours garage doors locally, after a spate of garage thefts in a garage area near to me a few years ago. If I remember rightly they comes with 2 16mm rawbolts that go approx 75-100mm into the floor, so if you go down this route make sure you have a decent SDS drill :!:

Steve


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## Setch (16 Mar 2010)

If you fit a garage defender, also make sure you're fitting into solid concrete, nice and thick. Otherwise it's easy lift out a broken section of thin concrete, or blockwork.

The link Schultzy provided is the same product at mine, but at a much better price!


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## OPJ (16 Mar 2010)

Is the garage door is plain view of the passing road at the end of your drive? While those locks look like a good idea, surely, they'll be less likely to attempt a break in if there's a risk they will be clearly seen in daylight.

At night, park your car _right_ in front of it - that way, they won't be able to open it!! :wink:


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## wizer (16 Mar 2010)

I used to use one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79478/Sec ... e-Defender

Until I installed a roller door. I'm willing to sell my one if anyone wants it? £30??

As Olly says, best protection when you are in (or have more than one car) is to park right up to it. That is, unless they steal the car and the garage contents :roll: :lol:


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## Boz62 (16 Mar 2010)

If you need a simple bodge while you're sorting it out, and if you have rear/side access, you can drop a steel plate with a bend in the end behind the spring. The bend stops it dropping through. On mine I can then jam it with a ply offcut to make sure it can't be jiggled from outside. This is a cozy fit and locks the top of the door effectively. It is also discrete from the outside so doesn't advertise that you need security, and doesn't involve drilling the door.

Good luck

Boz


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## Dibs-h (16 Mar 2010)

Screwfix used to sell a pair of 5 levers specially for up & over doors (keyed alike) that went into the door on each side (lower down) that were reasonably prices - made by Era. Around £25 for the pair. Don't seem to be on the site now.


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## toysandboats (17 Mar 2010)

I use the Pacri ones but had to fit more (and longer) screws to hold the wooden frame to the brick pillars first. The builder had only used 3 screws each side so they were fairly loose.

David


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## cambournepete (18 Mar 2010)

Is there any reason they are all shown locking into the usually wooden frame and not the concrete floor?


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## toysandboats (18 Mar 2010)

CP,
the Pacri ones could certainly be fitted vertically into the concrete floor and I did consider that. 
However, in my case the concrete garage floor meets the block paving drive right where the bolts wanted to be. The concrete was too thin to be able to drill effectively without it cracking up.

David


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## Setch (19 Mar 2010)

Also, gravity and dirt are against you in that orientation, and you'll constantly be digging rubbish out of the holes which will stop the locks closing fully.


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## devonwoody (19 Mar 2010)

Now if I had a battery operated jigsaw ( I did once) I could get into any garage, cut the metal door or cut into a thin wood panel. :twisted:


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## big soft moose (19 Mar 2010)

WoodAddict":35lfjy43 said:


> up and over type yes. and sadly it is the only entrance so security has to be on the outside.



IIRC you are buying this house rather than renting, right ?

if so is there any millage in getting a builder to put in another door - a relatively simple job, then bolting down the up and over from inside ? (this also has the added benefit or reinforcing to swimbo that it is a workshop not a garage and therefore not an appropriate repository for bikes, mowers, garden tools, packing boxes, and other rubbish)

failing that , how about removing the up and over and installing either a roller or a couple of substantial hinged doors.

it may seem like an added expense to take on at an expensive time, but it is a sight easier to do now before you fill the'shop with equipment.


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