# Planer Knife Setting Jig



## paulymarshall (21 Mar 2010)

I bought a pair of planer knife setting jigs some time ago, and have finally got round to try and set the blades in a record planer I purchased second hand. I tried many, many times to set the blades using the 2mm, block of wood set up, but failed miserably. Basically, what I need to know is how many twists do I need to make after I have indexed the jig to the cutter head. If nobody can help me there will be 40 quids worth of magnets and plastic in the Bury St Edmunds landfill site within the week!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Please help before I cry. Ta Paul.


----------



## DaveL (21 Mar 2010)

Hi Paul,

I have no idea of how many turns you need on your jigs, I don't have that type of jig, or a Record planner.  
But I have a Wadkin knife setting tool*, that we should be about to use on your machine.  Then we should be able to calibrate your jigs. 

If someone comes up with the settings for your jigs then I won't get a look round your shop, but you could end up with a working planner a bit quicker. 8) 

* I did have a picture but it is hiding from me, will try and find/take one tomorrow. :roll:


----------



## Recky33 (22 Mar 2010)

Hi Paul 

What I do is slap the jig on the cutter block with the loose knives pointing near as pos at tdc, then using a straight edge off the outfeed table, put some A4 paper under the straight edge so the knives are the thickness of the paper above the outfeed, turn each jig till the knife hits the straight edge, record what the jig numbers are and lock them off, then slowly tighten the knives down from the middle out, this is a lot easier if your outfeed is adjustable, you will prob have to try this a few times before your happy with it, biggest problem is making sure the knives dont move when your tightening em 

HTH 

Allan


----------



## MickCheese (22 Mar 2010)

Rob (Woodbloke) showed me a technique for setting the planer blades that I had seen before but seeing him do it made it much clearer. 

It involved a small strip of wood with two lines 3mm apart.

Line up the first line on the edge of the outfeed table. Rotate the cutter towards the infeed table slowly by hand so the blade contacts the wood and move it forward towards the infeed table. The idea is to move the wood the 3mm. If it moves more than 3mm then the blade is too high if less then too low.

You could try setting the blade level with the outfeed table, using your gauge then setting them again with the wood then again with your gauge, then you know how many turns from level to correct on your gauge.

I bet you then put the gauge in the cupboard and use the wood in future.

Mick


----------



## head clansman (22 Mar 2010)

hi paul 

try this link i think it might help you . hc 

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/plan ... 35179.html


----------



## wizer (22 Mar 2010)

MickCheese":2816h2wv said:


> The idea is to move the blade the 3mm.



This is how my Jet manual said to se the knives. But 3mm is wayyy to high IMO. I set it about .5mm


----------



## miles_hot (22 Mar 2010)

wizer":1cld00a2 said:


> MickCheese":1cld00a2 said:
> 
> 
> > The idea is to move the blade the 3mm.
> ...



Did Mick not mean to move the wood 3mm along the bed - i.e. drag the strip 3mm by rotating the blades rather than have them sticking 3mm above the bed?

Maybe I misunderstood or you think that the 3mm drag is too much?

Miles


----------



## paulymarshall (22 Mar 2010)

Thanks for the comments chaps, I will be trying the paper method tomorrow, the problem I have found with the 2 or 3mm and piece of wood method is that I can get the wood to move the 2mm, but when I tighten the screws the blades move up and I'm back to the start (believe me, I persisted for a good 2 hours this way one afternoon). I would imagine I am not the only person who has ever pulled his hair out trying to set their blades, and I am sure the jigs I have (£39.99 by the way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) would have worked if I had a correct point of reference to start with. I am not a beaten man, yet! :shock:


----------



## Recky33 (22 Mar 2010)

Paul, 

Try rubbing a bit of 3 in 1 down the blade sides before you put them in and only tighten the bolts a quarter turn at a time max, also you could try a pair of welding magnets, less than a fiver each for 5" ones, these will help to keep the blades down as well as level to the outfeed

Allan


----------



## Digit (22 Mar 2010)

That's the way I do it as well Allen, plus a sheet of writing paper to set the knives to the correct height relative to the out feed table.
Takes about fifteen-twenty minutes.

Roy.


----------



## MickCheese (23 Mar 2010)

wizer":1owwux4p said:


> MickCheese":1owwux4p said:
> 
> 
> > The idea is to move the blade the 3mm.
> ...



You're right I have edited it to read move the wood not the blade. :x 

Mick


----------



## misterfish (23 Mar 2010)

I seem to remember Steve Maskery had a free video to watch from his web site using and setting planer blades. i can't find it at the moment, maybe somebody else can point you in the right direction.

Misterfish

Here you go

http://blip.tv/file/2450654


----------



## woodbloke (23 Mar 2010)

wizer":1l4h58ai said:


> MickCheese":1l4h58ai said:
> 
> 
> > The idea is to move the blade the 3mm.
> ...


Tom...that's probably far too low. 3mm is a very fine 'carry forward' and is what Mr C recommends (if memory serves) A 'carry forward' of .5mm is all but impossible (for me anyway) to see, let alone achieve.
...hope I haven't missed anything or we're talking at Xpurposes - Rob


----------



## Boatfixer (23 Mar 2010)

The first thing I thought of when I saw this thread was a Steve Maskery video. As I couldn't find it either I just thought I was mis-remembering things again.....


----------



## Digit (23 Mar 2010)

The problem with the wood moving method, for me when I tried it, was the problem that the original poster complained of. 
When clamping the knives they moved, so that it was always more miss than hit. 
Using magnets, as Allen I both do, holds the knives in position. 
If you used magnets on the outfeed table the height is automatically set correctly, provided the block position is correctly set. 
As I said earlier, it takes me about 15-20 minutes to remove and replace three knives. 

Roy.


----------



## paulymarshall (25 Mar 2010)

Cheers again chaps. I think i'll now be able to crack it, using a combination of all posts, i.e. once I get one edge at the requisite 2-3mm, set both jigs to that and then never, ever alter them!!! Am I the only person who thinks the "plain English board" would have a field day with a lot of the instructions we all have to deal with??


----------



## Digit (25 Mar 2010)

I purchased a battery for my motor bike last year, made in China, neither I, nor my son, nor anyone else could make any sense of the instructions at all! 
It annoys me as at one time one of my jobs was writing instructions for customers, I simply passed my work to someone else to tear apart the revising if necessary. 

Roy..


----------



## Giff (13 Aug 2010)

Just found this thread as I have spent most of the day trying to set my Record Planer up using the jigs ( was told they were essential when bought the planer last year). I know exactly what paulymarshall went through. In the end I set them up with a straight edge on the out feed table, which needed adjusting as well. Does anyone know what the tolerance should be. If I read with a depth gauge after setting there up to 0.13mm from one side of the blade to the other but I am still not sure if all 3 blades are set the same. Has anyone any tips. I haven't tried Steve Maslerly's rolling wood check yet. Thanks giff


----------



## Digit (13 Aug 2010)

I've tried the lot Giff and now use a home made jig.
Before I explain, and believe me it is very simple, can you locate the cutter block in a fixed position?
Top dead centre is best.
If you can do that then two pieces of wood/plastic/alli and some magnets and you are home and dry.

Roy.


----------



## Giff (13 Aug 2010)

Thanks for the quick reply Roy. I have just ordered some welding magnets off ebay as a suggestion in the old posts. I haven't worked out how to lock the block yet but maybe the magnets will do that. ? I thinks the jigs setters may be left on the shelf for quite a while ! I did think it was me being stupid so thanks again for the advice. Giff


----------



## Digit (13 Aug 2010)

My jigs are two peieces of plastic 5 inches long with three small magnets embedded in them. Two hold the jigs down onto the outfeed table. 
If your table is alli then drill and tap two holes. I hold the cutter block at TDC with a pin attached to the top of the bearing housing and engages in the slot where the knives are.
The magnets are arranged to set the knives 2-3 thou below the outfeed table.
Replacing three knives takes about 20 minutes.
If necessary the jigs can be made with a hook that locates the knives at TDC, this requires that the jigs be located in place on the outfeed table. Drill and tap, or another hook to hang the jigs over the edge of the outfeed table etc.
Once made the job is quick and fool proof and accurate.

Roy.


----------



## Giff (13 Aug 2010)

That sound very accurate but simple to use. I have an iron table so the magnets will work. Thanks again Giff


----------



## Tim Nott (14 Aug 2010)

The jig thingies are simple, if you can set them off the block rather than the tables. With a knife in place, align the outfeed side magnet with the back of the blade. Click the other magnet on to the infeed side of the block, then screw the blade magnet down till it just touches the blade. Tighten the locking screw on the jig, Repeat in the same position for the other jig.
You should now never have to change the settings again - with all three magnets touching on both jigs at each end of the block you can be sure that your blades will be aligned precisely to the block.


----------



## stuartpaul (14 Aug 2010)

I splashed out today and bought a set of these:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod804558/

Yet to use them but hopeful that they'll do the job as I find blade setting a PITA!

Should at least hold the blades steady while tightening the lock nuts.


----------



## Digit (14 Aug 2010)

That's exactly what my home made ones look like SP. But I fail to see how they can work acurately unless the cutter block is rotated exactly the correct number of degrees from knife to knife.

Roy.


----------



## grahamar (14 Aug 2010)

Hi,

Here's the link to the Steve Maskery setup for the planer knives. This is part
of his "How to remove snipe" video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHfjSatKITQ

The process/setup works just fine for me, I have a Metabo 260. Indeed this is
the process Metabo recommend in their manual.

graham


----------



## Digit (14 Aug 2010)

I'll have to look at it later Graham as all Wales is on the net tonight and videos are slooooow! 
I can well understand that you can rotate the cutter block to bring the knife to TDC visually but I wonder just how accurate that is? 
I have even argued with myself that it might not be that important, that two or three knives effectively cutting one after the other might be a better arrangement. 

Roy.


----------



## stuartpaul (14 Aug 2010)

Digit":5ej29d3k said:


> That's exactly what my home made ones look like SP. But I fail to see how they can work acurately unless the cutter block is rotated exactly the correct number of degrees from knife to knife.
> 
> Roy.



Roy,

You know I never thought of that very simple fact!

I'll have to figure out some way of ensuring TDC otherwise that not so lovely ripple effect will appear.


----------



## Digit (14 Aug 2010)

Will it though SP? 
I played safe and made a fitting on my planer that enables me to rotate the block exactly, but I'm still uncertain as to whether I needed to go that extra mile or not. 

Roy.


----------



## stuartpaul (14 Aug 2010)

You're probably right Roy but I reckon it needs to be reasonably close or it will ripple?

When I first got the P/T the blades were slightly out and there was a most definite ripple. Resetting solved it but it took ages and I was hoping this device would speed the process.

Time will tell!


----------



## Giff (14 Aug 2010)

Roy I have seen the new posts and I think the crucial thing here as you have said is setting TDC on the block. Does your block have a hole drolled for a pin or have you drilled one. Giff


----------



## Digit (15 Aug 2010)

SP sorry about the delay in getting back to you but I've had my PC in pieces. 
That is what I was afraid of. If you now have the knives set to your satisfaction try this. 
Using a DTI clock one knife for TDC then make a jig that sits on the out feed table with a lip that butts against the leading edge of the table and the trailing edge of the knife. 
This should give you TDC on each knife each time. 
Hope that makes sense. 

Roy.


----------



## Giff (16 Aug 2010)

Thanks again Roy that makes perfect sense and I think I am getting there now. I have had the planer for nearly a year but just used it as it came. I have only been planing narrow ( 70 - 80mm) sections.....but now I have tried to put the re-ground blades back in have found that both in and out-feed beds were a long way out....out-feed 1.80mm and the in-feed 0.70 the other way. I think I got away with it before as I was only using a small part of the blade, or the blades had been set out as well to compensate...
Thanks for all your help just waiting for the magnets to finish the jigs....Giff


----------



## Shokunin (12 May 2011)

Hi Dave, did you by any chance find that pic of the Wadkin knife setting jig? Would be most interested - planning to have one made by an engineer friend, but we are stuck with dimensions. In the manual the reference is always to the jig as far as the knife protrusion is concerned.


----------



## Woodmatt (2 Sep 2021)

I have just tried this method which seems to work well


----------



## Sandyn (2 Sep 2021)

Very interesting, You should post this in a current thread which has moved on to planer/thicknesser adjustment


----------

