# My Shed Build - WIP



## 7omkin (15 Feb 2010)

Hi Guys,

If you remember I posted a query few days ago about building my own shed.

I set about designing it. And bought myself an Erbauer 190mm circular saw and a Makita screwdriver.

Quite happy that i have finally started the build 2 days ago (I am off from work for 2 weeks). I intend to finish it in 2 weeks time.

Got rid of the hedge at the back, and leveled the ground for my concrete base. Shed size 4 X 3m

*Concrete Base* : 
1. 2 tonnes of MOT
2. 1 ton of Ballast
and Cement

Back breaking stuff. My estimate went wrong and had to order extra materials. Started it in Jan but bad weather delayed everything and it was really hard work out there in the cold 

Any way achieved 4" thick base. A little uneven :shock:. But decided to build the shed regardless.

*Shed Base*

Ordered the material from local timber merchant.

4"X4" : Treated timber for base frame







Forgot to put the DPM in :wink: before I put the concrete. So decided to use it over it and then lay the base frame.






Sorry for the quality of the pic.

Also, decided to use anchor bolts, with mixed results, secured the frame to the base. And also, filled any gaps between frame and the concrete base with cement.

Next the joist went in 




and noggins





That is my three days work. 

Will keep you posted on the progress.


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## MikeG. (16 Feb 2010)

I didn't get involved in the original thread, 'cos I missed it.

For a timber shed to be long-lasting and dry, it must, must, must have the sole plate of the walls raised above the concrete on a plinth. This should be a 2 or 3 course brick plinth. 

If that is a conc. base under your floor frame, then it isn't too late. Build a low plinth all around the slab, and build your walls off that. You'll never regret the extra bit of work.

Mike


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## billybuntus (16 Feb 2010)

Good effort,

Its a good job you forgot to put your dpc in under that concrete as it would be doing very little bearing in mind how close you are to the wet ground and you've bridged most of the concrete to wood by filling in the gaps.

Don't take this as a whinge or anything I've just pointing out similar mistakes that I have made in the past  

Mikes way of building it sounds excellent and would surely make you frame last for a lifetime.

Think about how quickly wood soaks up water and your at ground level. DPC's are installed at around 5cm (from memory?) to prevent rain bouncing off the ground and soaking into your 'dry' wall.

my 2p.


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## PAC1 (16 Feb 2010)

On my shed I built three rows of honeycomb dwarf walls, one just in from either end and one in the middle. Then laid some DPC and treated timber wall plate and then built the floor off of this structure. It keeps the timber well off the concrete, allows plenty of ventilation underneath and also provides plenty of support for the floor as the effective span of the joists is reduced by at least half.


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## studders (16 Feb 2010)

billybuntus":2ta6t2y9 said:


> Think about how quickly wood soaks up water and your at ground level.



As laid out it will also be a right pipper to seal between the Concrete base and the Timber walls. Don't ask me.... etc. etc. But I will be rebuilding a storage shed come the Spring. 
I'd deffo do as Mr G (no, not _that_ one, the other one) suggests and raise them up a bit on a plinth. You won't need the packers then, which will soon rot and make the thing all wonkificated (technical term).


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## 7omkin (16 Feb 2010)

Thanks for the comments guys.

I knew I was doing something wrong 

The reason for my low level base is the overall height of the shed under Permitted Dev. If i raise the base then I have to compromise on the height of my shed.

I am starting the extension of the house and will ask the builder to seal the base off or whatever he suggests. 

Will keep you posted.


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## 7omkin (16 Feb 2010)

Mike Garnham":3ut80ka5 said:


> I didn't get involved in the original thread, 'cos I missed it.
> 
> For a timber shed to be long-lasting and dry, it must, must, must have the sole plate of the walls raised above the concrete on a plinth. This should be a 2 or 3 course brick plinth.
> 
> ...



Thanks Mike.

I think its sinking in now. Just to clarify, do you mean that damp might rise through the concrete base ?

I am more worried about the water seeping in through the gaps between the frame and the concrete base.


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## MikeG. (16 Feb 2010)

All those problems and more, the way you're doing it......

If you put some bricks around, you can easily seal the junction to prevent water ingress at slab level. You should also dig your ground level down so that at least 2 inches of concrete is above the ground, all the way around.

You can achieve a wooden floor far easier than with all that framing. Bust all that up, and just do a floating floor........boarding directly on top of insulation (on a DPM). Judging by your concreting, you'll need to use a self-levelling compound first.

These changes won't affect your over-all height.

Mike


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## 7omkin (16 Feb 2010)

Hi Mike,

another question. If i seal the concrete base with brick as you said, then is there still chance of damp going in under the floor and will the frame still rot ?


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## MikeG. (16 Feb 2010)

Raising the frame off the concrete by 2 bricks will increase its lifespan by decades. If you do a floating floor as I recommend, you should turn the DPM up the walls (from under the insulation), and trim it off at floor level. No damp will then get in to anywhere it can do any harm. You sit the frame on a DPC on top of the brick plinth, of course.

Mike


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## OLD (16 Feb 2010)

I agree with mike why would you put down 3 tons of concrete and then put a self supporting wood floor on top . That concrete work is not good you need to do some reading into the subject and include brick laying.
If you do it right you only do it once which is good as this stuff is hard work.


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## MikeG. (16 Feb 2010)

This gives me my first opportunity to post this link:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/build-a-shed-mike-s-way-t39389.html

I bet it's not the last!

Mike


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## studders (16 Feb 2010)

OLD":k1s2tduz said:


> That concrete work is not good you need to do some reading into the subject ....



It doesn't look _that bad_ to me. OK it aint pretty but, so long as the mix was right, and time will tell, it should do the job (ish). :lol: 
I do agree on the unnecessary wooden base though.


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## Gary (16 Feb 2010)

That base looks less than 4" round the edges, I'm not sure how it will stand up to the test of time.


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## 7omkin (17 Feb 2010)

To be honest I am bit upset and disappointed with myself that I have wasted a good opportunity  And also, time is against me as my extension work is starting in 1st week of March and need to finish this shed to store my stuff from the house.

Been a depressing day because of the rain, could not get anything done today and the day was wasted. 

Despite the setback, I have reluctantly decided to go ahead with the existing structure. 

I have taken the comments on board and will seal of the base once I am finished with the shed.

Will keep you guys posted.

To Old and Studders, the concrete base may not look pretty but I had the tough time drilling for anchor bolts, so I am ok with the quality of the mix.

Thanks again for all the replies guys.


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## 7omkin (17 Feb 2010)

Mike Garnham":rhwqvg2o said:


> This gives me my first opportunity to post this link:
> 
> https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/build-a-shed-mike-s-way-t39389.html
> 
> ...



Wish I had seen something like this before. Just great design.


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## 7omkin (17 Feb 2010)

Mike Garnham":30cnrtl7 said:


> This gives me my first opportunity to post this link:
> 
> https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/build-a-shed-mike-s-way-t39389.html
> 
> ...



Now I know where you get your designs from 8)


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## MikeG. (17 Feb 2010)

Yep, you're right.....I get them from Essex.  

Mike


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## billybuntus (17 Feb 2010)

7omkin":2vhrlz7x said:


> To be honest I am bit upset and disappointed with myself that I have wasted a good opportunity  And also, time is against me as my extension work is starting in 1st week of March and need to finish this shed to store my stuff from the house.
> 
> Been a depressing day because of the rain, could not get anything done today and the day was wasted.
> 
> ...



I'm sure the concretes fine, its not as if its all going to crumble away to dust.

Your making a big mistake with your shed.

Buy a cheap gazebo type affair from argos (around £20) go buy a few bricks and you could get your small walls done in no time and even in the rain. A few hours now will save a few days of hassle in the future when the lower 'walls' of your shed are constantly soaked/rotten and you will definatley have mould growing on the damp surface which will in turn creap into everything you have stored.

Been there done that and I have a T-shirt


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## MikeG. (17 Feb 2010)

7omkin":m7yp8s46 said:


> To be honest I am bit upset and disappointed with myself that I have wasted a good opportunity.
> 
> Despite the setback, I have reluctantly decided to go ahead with the existing structure.
> 
> I have taken the comments on board and will seal of the base once I am finished with the shed.



Laying a course of bricks is going to add one day to your build, that's all. That won't make any difference to your extension plans, but will add decades to the life of your shed and remove the certainty of rust from your tools. There is no good reason not to do it properly. 

As you haven't cast the straps into the concrete, screw and plug them into the conc, below the brickwork. Dont forget to put straps either side of the door opening, and to omit the bricks from the door location.

Mike


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## 7omkin (28 Feb 2010)

Hi Guys, 

An update. 

I carried on with the shed and this is how it looks. 






The floor 





Stud walls 





Roof built and felted. I had to ask my builder to come and do the roof felting as I decided to go for torch-on instead of easy-roof by wickes, due to cost and work involved. 





Truss details 










uPVC window in. 










One door is left which I intend to do next weekend.


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