# Radius the end of a worktop



## Ratter (8 Aug 2008)

I have a breakfast bar which is arranged as a pensinsula. I would like to radius the free end and am wondering on the best approach.

My ideas so far:-

Use a router on a trammel bar - might need to be very long to get the curve I want - I thought about 1" of curve across a 900mm width. Would need to rough it our first with a jigsaw

Create some sort of template first and use a copy ring to follow the profile


Just wondered how the pros did it?

It would obviously be easier just to bevel the corners but not quite as elegant to my eyes.


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## WellsWood (8 Aug 2008)

The problem with cutting the full width of breakfast bar in one go is that it is profiled on both edges. This means that a single cut is always going to be in the wrong direction on one edge, with the resulting risk of breakout of the laminate. I have found best results are obtained by radiusing each corner individually, that way each can be made with the cutter rotating in the right direction in relation to the edge. This is probably best achieved with a template and bearing guided cutter, as you can then cut just over half way from one edge, flip the work over and do the other half from the other edge having carefully lined up the template with the end of the first cut.
For the single radius cut you're proposing prepare the template using a trammel to ensure an accurate and consistant curve, otherwise you may find it difficult to obtain a smooth transition between the two cuts.


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## skipdiver (8 Aug 2008)

Just done one of these.Made a template from mdf.Clamped it to the worktop and made about 5 passes with the router using the same cutter as i use in the worktop jig,stopping short of the far end by about an inch or so to avoid breakout.Cut the last piece off with a fine handsaw,sanded the end with a sanding block,then stuck on the edging.Jobs a good 'un.

The only danger with this method is if you allow the router to tip when cutting.Be methodical and careful and things should be ok.

I did 1 1/2" of curve.


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## jasonB (8 Aug 2008)

As Mark says make a template first as its easier to shape then us ea router to follow the template cutting in from both sides. I use a multi trim bit from Wealden for this as you don't need to move the template.

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... m_270.html

Jason


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## 9fingers (8 Aug 2008)

If you use the trammel method to create the jig, I reckon you will need a 4metre long trammel bar.
Maybe a length of rope tied to the router handle would be good enough??

Bob


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## WellsWood (8 Aug 2008)

jasonB":2m2qc4ji said:


> As Mark says make a template first as its easier to shape then us ea router to follow the template cutting in from both sides. I use a multi trim bit from Wealden for this as you don't need to move the template.
> 
> http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... m_270.html
> 
> Jason



Cue lightbulb going on in my head!
Well done Jason, that's sooo much easier than my way #-o


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## hpl (9 Aug 2008)

Axminster power tools have just started listing these www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=7 ... 1&jump=192
Haven't tried one yet as I haven't had the need, and they may be more than you need for a one off, but they look much easier than making a new template for each curve for those who would use it more often.

Johnny


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## DaveL (9 Aug 2008)

Hi Johnny,

Welcome to the forum. 
Your link has been caught by our spam trap, this will stop once you have a few more posts.

The Fisch Flexi Curve does look like a useful bit of kit for doing curves with the router.


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## Aled Dafis (9 Aug 2008)

I used a trammel bar (length of 2x1) to cut mine, with a piece of 2x2 clamped to the far edge of the worktop to act as a spelch board.

If i remember correctly, a radius of about 1.6m gave a curve of about 50mm over a 900mm worktop, which looks about right to me.

Regards

Aled


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## Shultzy (10 Aug 2008)

The calculator on this page will give the radius from chord length (width of worktop) and chord height (amount of curve required)

http://www.1728.com/circsect.htm


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## WellsWood (10 Aug 2008)

Shultzy":1ze5qait said:


> The calculator on this page will give the radius from chord length (width of worktop) and chord height (amount of curve required)
> 
> http://www.1728.com/circsect.htm



Thanks Shultzy, that's gone straight in my bookmarks.


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## Lee Brubaker (10 Aug 2008)

I dunno, it's early in the day & perhaps my brain isn't in gear yet but my understanding of Mark's thread is that he wants to impart a curve to the end of the bar top....not just round the corners. If correct my approach avoids templates & long trammel bars.
I have a flexible steel rule & calling on my wife for assistance (she operates the pencil) I bend the steel rule to the curve I want & she marks it. Then off to the bandsaw...cut the curve, then to the belt sander and finish to the pencil line. Done. No templates & no trammel bars to make space for storing on the shop wall.

Lee


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## Scrit (10 Aug 2008)

Worktop ends can be a bit difficult to manhandle onto a bandsaw, especially 900mm wide breakfast bar sections.... My worktop jig actually has a radius designed specifically to do this task with a 1/2in plunge router, 30mm guide bush and a 1/2in diameter cutter. I do tend to rough out the cut with the jigsaw first to reduce the wear and tear on the router cutter. As othera have said you need to make the first cut into the laminate (waste to the right side), flip the top over and make the second cut from the underside to avoid breaking out the post-formed edge.

I've marked out and cut curves before using a 1in PAR stick saw kerfed on one side then bent to a bow shape and tied with a bit of string, but that does call for a second piece of stock to support the router base when making the cut

Scrit


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