# Router Table WIP



## DavidE (12 Jan 2008)

I started making a Router Table last weekend. It is designed in the Style of Norms, and collects all the nice features I have seen from the threads on here (especially our resident Lord, and MotownMartin). It is having a 17" LS positioner on it (I blame Martin for that  ). It started off life in Sketchup...

I made the cabinet last weekend and didn't take any WIP shots, an oversight I know.







Anyway I thought it might be useful to take some today showing how I put the insert in. Yesterday two pieces of 18mm MDF and some fireback were glued together.

This is prior to trimming the edges down.





After the edges have been trimmed with the Incra Magnalock insert on top.





I got inspiration for making the template from here: http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Blake/blog/2654 (Scroll down)

Though I changed it round a bit - still used a 1.5" Forstner Bit:
I avoided glueing by screwing the pieces to a piece of MDF underneath.





With the insert sat in:






Some MDF added to the middle to support the router:





After routing with the initial template removed the final template is underneath:






The insert was then double sided taped to the table and a piece made for the inner hole - I forgot to take photos round this time.

Anyhow with great relief routing is finished and the insert is a nice snug fit in the recess:





Shelf was cut around 2mm deeper than the plate to allow the levelling screws to do their stuff:






The backside of the table has just been varnished to ward off moisture and after the top of the cabinet is levelled will be fastened on tomorrow all being well. Then there is the hardwood lipping the T slot and the Incra to fit. Then it will be called into use to make its own drawers!  

David


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## Rich (12 Jan 2008)

Looking very nice David, it inspires me and I will save this WIP for future reference, however, at the risk of sounding dim, what is "fireback" it looks like formica to me.
Regards, Rich.


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## Oryxdesign (12 Jan 2008)

Looking good, I'll be following this carefully as I'm about to undertake the same task for myself, I think I'll be onto mark 5.


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## Shultzy (12 Jan 2008)

David, nice WIP pics. I thought that it was advisable to glue a second piece of laminate to the underside to stop the possibility of warping. If its not too nosey how much was the incra plate and where did you get it from?


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## DavidE (12 Jan 2008)

To answer a few questions...

Rich,

No you're not dim - I was vague. I was inspired by Lord Nibbo's post on this thread.



Lord Nibbo":1va0kv7o said:


> Martin I covered my top with a piece of this It's about three times thicker than formica type laminates, infact perfect for router table tops. It comes in many colours two sided, the colours of mine was white/cream one side and black marble on the other side. Because it is so thick it's flat to start with, just evo stick it to a piece of mdf and your done, no bumps and to cut it just use a router, dead easy.




It is from B&Q and is a plastic laminate. It is about 3mm thick though and much easier to glue on.
Sorry for the confusion.



Rich":1va0kv7o said:


> Looking very nice David, it inspires me and I will save this WIP for future reference, however, at the risk of sounding dim, what is "fireback" it looks like formica to me.
> Regards, Rich.



Oryxdesign - okay cool This is Mk 4 for me (if you count Mk 1 which was very very crude) It is leaps and bounds ahead of Mk3 which was a worktop sink cut out on an open frame.

Shultzy
Err yes I have read than too - I am trying to take the cheap option by applying varnish and hoping that will act as a moisture barrier - time will tell! :? The Incra plate was £72 from http://www.woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/

Cheers
David


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## Rich (12 Jan 2008)

Thanks David, now I know, as I said in a thread just before xmas, this forum is an education far better than I could have received at school, once again many thanks for the reply.
Regards, Rich.


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## wizer (12 Jan 2008)

yes, ok, I guess... But I still think my Quicky Router table is better  :wink:


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## PowerTool (12 Jan 2008)

Thanks for all the pictures;the top looks very professional.

Andrew


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## motownmartin (13 Jan 2008)

DavidE":orcf8g3v said:


> .It is having a 17" LS positioner on it (I blame Martin for that  ).
> 
> David


 :lol: I'm sure you won't regret it David.
How does the Incra plate look to you, I like the idea of the camlock in the corner, does it work well :?: 

Looking good so far David, it should be finished by tonight


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## OPJ (13 Jan 2008)

I really like the jig you've made to cut the recess for the actual plate. Out of all the Router Table Build topics I've seen on this forum, this has got to be the first time I've seen a jig like this. And I'm sure many members will benefit from seeing it also. Thank you.

I don't see any kind of track for a mitre fence or cross-cutting sled?

I am interested to see what your fence looks like also.


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## DavidE (13 Jan 2008)

Thanks for all the comments.
WiZeR - with your photos down at the moment I can't remind myself what yours looks like...


Okay today's progress - I had to cut short at 4pm as I needed to be elsewhere. Hoping to get out again tomorrow night.

The first job of the day was flattening the table top. Although the plywood lined up well there were some high spots. I knocked up the quick jig shown in the photo below. I saw this in Scott Landis's book on workbenches as a means of flattening tops. I took about 0.5-1mm off the whole area - then sanded with the ROS at 120grit.





The finished carcass top






After this was done I got the top and put it on. The previous activity made a massive difference and it was hard to move due to the amount of frictional contact. Yesterday although it wasn't rocking you could feel it sliding on the higher spots. 

I then fastened the top down using those metal right angle brackets that have slots to allow movement. I managed to put a couple of screws in the centre near the plate. Hopefully, this should let it "breath" if it wants to. I also put a couple of sturdy right angle metal brackets round the back to support the overhang of the table.

Next I attacked a piece of Sapele with the table saw and thicknesser





and made some strips for the edges.





These were mitered and glued on with a few panel pins to hold them in place while the glue goes off.





When this is dry tomorrow I want to go round the edge with a chamfer bit like his Lordship did as it guarantees you get a flush edge and will also take any edge off the plastic.

Now Incra reckon that grub screws for plate levelling dig in and you constantly have to adjust. Their solution is to have screw tapped into the MDF which seems a bit wacky. My solution was to put some 3.5 x 16mm screws in where the grub screws are touching to provide a contact plate.





Next I set the height of the plate using a straight edge and DTI. As their are ten levelling screws the DTI was good to ensure all of them were in contact with the shelf.





Then I locked it with the CamLock - Martin to answer your question it works a treat and eliminated movement in all directions.

Then as if by magic one of these found its way into the plate. The only bargain I have ever got from B&Q. 

I took the spring out of the Router. This saves fighting. However, do others find you need to support the weight when jacking up as otherwise it is very notchy? (okay going with gravity – or is it me?).





I then got the positioner fastened down and the fence partially assembled.





Then that was it for the day. Jobs left to do:



Chamfer the edge
Adjust the positioner slightly as it is about 1.5mm out of square to the plate (I only need to open the holes slightly at the back which were not a clearance fit and wiggle!)
Rout the groove for the T Track.
Then it is onto the drawers and fronts which I keep changing my mind about.
Also NVR switch and all the dust-ex to sort.

OPJ -Thanks - I can't take credit for it as I was inspired by that other build. The advantage of using the external chunks was I removed the need to glue and speeded the process up. You'll see the slot is on my list. I have left it to near the end as I am going to use a piece of wood between the Incra Fence clamped down as the guide. My reasoning was this way I hopefully get the fence and slot as parallel as possible.

David


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## motownmartin (14 Jan 2008)

DavidE":21f88n78 said:


> .
> I took the spring out of the Router. This saves fighting. However, do others find you need to support the weight when jacking up as otherwise it is very notchy? (okay going with gravity – or is it me?).
> 
> David


I don't see the need to support it, I would imagine the pressure to be even greater with the spring in when turned the other way up, if that makes any sense.


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## DavidE (14 Jan 2008)

Yep I agree Martin it is much harder fighting the spring. I was just a bit disappointed it felt notchy and adding a bit of support with my other hand improved it greatly.

Okay a quick update.

The edges have been chamfered now that went well and has finished it off nicely. I then squared the fence up to the insert which was straightforward. I used this as the guide for two pieces of MDF which sandwiched the T-track.






Then I used the 1/2" bearing guided cutter from the insert to rout the groove. This went okay, however, I was mildly vexed that at one end the bearing dug into the MDF a bit and made the groove about 1mm wider than it should be. It is only cosmestic and you don't notice unless your looking. The learning point I think is to not used MDF - I should have ripped plywood and/or if using MDF make sure the edge isn't fluffy!

This is the nice end 





Overall view (sorry it is blurred and for the mixed lighting when it is finished I will get some non-grabbed shots). I was pleased it is perfectly parallel to the fence and insert  





Finally, last night I identified some offcuts I came by last year as possible drawer front material. I wasn't sure what it was. A bit of work with the thicknesser revealed some Sapele (I think sorry for colours again)

Before





After





I have three of these boards so I should be able to get enough wood once they have had an appointment with the bandsaw and thicknesser.

No workshop time now till Wednesday  
David


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## Jake (14 Jan 2008)

It's a little clunky, but it is only the rough height adjuster.

Very nice table and jewellery - maybe just a touch cramped in the router compartment.


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## OPJ (15 Jan 2008)

It's coming along very nicely.

And that does look like sapele; or, at least, some form of Mahogany...

If you flip the board from end-to-end, does the grain go from light-to-dark, and vise-versa? :wink:


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## DavidE (14 Feb 2008)

Time for an update - the table got put on the back burner with a few other projects ongoing. However, I have got the drawers done now. All that is remaining is a little rubbing down round the edges and applying some finish.











I have used it a lot over the last few weeks too. The Incra fence is brilliant, the accuracy and repeatability is tip top and the dust extraction is a big improvement too. It is so nice to not get covered is dust and have to wear a respirator.

David


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## motownmartin (14 Feb 2008)

Jobs a good'n David, it looks a treat you must feel very proud.

Doesn't it make a big difference to those little aluminium tables.

=D> =D> =D>


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## wizer (14 Feb 2008)

it sure is a beauty! Well done


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## DaveL (14 Feb 2008)

It's no good that makes my old Trend Mk1 table look like the toy it really is.  

Well done David,  I must find the time to build something similar. :roll:


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## DavidE (15 Feb 2008)

Thanks for all the nice comments.

I've never had one of those small Aluminium tables, however this is what it has replaced...






Which strangely enough, has been dismantled now  

I really appreciate the good firm base to work on now. Even without the castors locked it is pretty firm. It moves okay but there is quite a bit of inertia - the top and contents certainly weigh it all down and damp any vibration!

Cheers
David


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## OPJ (17 Feb 2008)

DaveL":1epdmwkm said:


> It's no good that makes my old Trend Mk1 table look like the toy it really is.
> 
> Well done David,  I must find the time to build something similar. :roll:



I've got a Bosch RT60 (which I think is very similar?) and I know exactly what you mean. I found it improved by making my own mounting plate from Tufnol but the biggest gripe I have with this thing now is that the top is convex across it's length! :evil: 


DavidE, excellent job. Would it be possible to see what you intend to fill all those drawers with, besides the obvious?


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## DavidE (18 Feb 2008)

Hi Olly,

Thanks for your message - okay will do. There is no planning though they are nearly full already. I'll show with pictures how the drawer sizes evolved. Initially the right hand lower ones were going to be equal then I realised they would be more useful done slightly differently.

Thanks, David


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## mailee (18 Feb 2008)

That is one beautiful router table David, well done. :wink:


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## 9fingers (19 Feb 2008)

I'm starting to think about building a Normesque router table.

I know this is NOT an original thought after all the good examples built by forum members recently.

I have questions about the laminate surface, specifically the BnQ fireback panel.

1) What is the best sort of adhesive to use?

PVA - doublt if that will bond to the lamnate
PU - sticks well but maybe the foaming will lift off the laminate and it will be difficult to exert even clamping pressure as the 'galu sets up'
Impact/contact - unforgiving if mis-aligned and the laminate too stiff to use the multiple stick spacer trick to bond the layer progressively.

2) I will be laminating the face of the fence - don't want to use the incra or other metal fence. so can the surface be marked with a pencil easily and rubbed off after?


Thanks In Advance for any guidance offered.

Bob


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## Lord Nibbo (19 Feb 2008)

9fingers":3f6o7u0n said:


> I have questions about the laminate surface, specifically the BnQ fireback panel.
> 
> 1) What is the best sort of adhesive to use?
> 
> Bob



Evostick contact adhesive. I've read on this forum some don't like it. But correctly applied it's unbeatable. One tip from my boat building experience is to apply two coats, the second coat is applied after the first coat has properly dried. The second coat is then left to the normal dry to the touch. I don't use one of those serrated spreaders either, just a scrap off cut of laminate and thinly apply each coat. I'll defy anyone to get it appart using two coats.


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## 9fingers (19 Feb 2008)

Thanks for the glue advice LN,

Did you use the fireback material?

Does it take pencil lines well?


Regards

Bob


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## gidon (19 Feb 2008)

Great job David - well done!
Enjoy using it.
Cheers
Gidon


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## Lord Nibbo (19 Feb 2008)

9fingers":a8574y88 said:


> Thanks for the glue advice LN,
> 
> Did you use the fireback material?
> 
> ...



Yes it was fireback, but not from B&Q. I got mine locally. Mine was plain white/cream one side and granite on the other side. The white side takes pencil lines well and are easy to clean off.


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## LarryS. (19 Feb 2008)

9fingers":aus3bikw said:


> Thanks for the glue advice LN,
> 
> Did you use the fireback material?
> 
> ...



I bought plain white fireback from homebase, and used contact adhesive, well happy with both, bear in mind though the contact adhesive is a bit fiddly to spread fairly even


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## motownmartin (20 Feb 2008)

Believe it or not I used silicone sealant on my fireback laminate, it wasn't to be awkward but so I could take it off if I needed to, it didn't affect it in any other way, yet :?


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## DavidE (20 Feb 2008)

Thanks for all the nice comments.

Bob - I used contact adhesive after reading the other posts here from other builders. Alignment wise I had the fireback about 30mm oversize and just dropped it on. I also had to have a join along the back and that went amazingly well too. At least with the stiff board you know your not going to get air bubbles.

I've got the bit that came out of the hole for the router and it shows how tight the join is and it has had no hint of delamination.

David


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## Shultzy (5 Mar 2008)

If you want to stick a large area of laminate using contact adhesive, then use newspaper between the laminate and the base. Position the laminate, put a heavy weight on one end, lift the other end and pull out a sheet. Press down then pull out successive sheets. I've glued a 10' x 2' sheet in this way with no problems.


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