# Workshop Layout Proposal



## billw (7 Nov 2020)

Right - so I have figured that one reason I struggle, especially now the nights are drawing in, are that my working space is lit by one 40W lightbulb. Not great to say the least. Plus the only workspace I possess is my bench, and part of that is gone because I've bolted the bandsaw to it. So really, I have 2/3 of a small bench and no other flat surfaces. A lot of my tools are in a roasting tin sitting on a large cardboard box of junk, the rest of them are strewn all over the place, or hanging on the occasional nail in the wall.

So, I've decided this has to change before I can get round to doing any proper work. So, here's my initial design and some notes on which I'd love some feedback. Sorry that my skills aren't good enough to put in the extraction pipework, although it'll all run up to the ceiling and then off to the chip extractor which will be outside of the area shown.







So:-
1. the bench isn't my current one, it's the one I'm planning to build, current one is smaller. 
2. Machines have all been positioned to allow for maximum in/out feed.
3. The five base units will all be made from solid timber (probably 18mm cherry) and will mostly be drawer units (1x cupboard under the thicknesser)
4. The worksurfaces I've yet to decide upon although I've set them to 34mm. Haven't decided what material to use yet. I remember seeing an MFT bench design on here that used some black-surface material that looked really good but I can't find the thread.
5. The planer weighs 9k, so I think resting it on two units should be stable enough.
6. The bandsaw is 30kg, so not sure on my plans about resting it on two units.
7. The thicknesser is 35kg, and I put it on a more strengthened base, not sure why I figured 5kg was the breaking point! (Actually I never looked up the weights until I started writing this post).
8. The white shelf is actually a holder for a series of 300x300 LED panels that I'll use for the main lighting. The shelf is 3m long (it's just approx) and I'll probably put 4 or 5 panels in it.
9. I might stretch some boards out of that shelf over the workshop and put some more panels in - simpler than trying to fix new lights into the ceiling and can be easily removed when moving house at some point).
10. The boards on the wall are 18mm ply, to which I'll attach most of my tools. 

And that's it!


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## AJB Temple (7 Nov 2020)

What's at the right hand end of the room? You seem to have a thicknesses extending past the wall and a planer (?) right up against the end too.


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## AJB Temple (7 Nov 2020)

Where you've got your jigsaw, the workbench may as well go the whole length of the room - like a kitchen worktop (or actually a kitchen worktop!). 

The black ply you refer to is probably phenolic. Pre-surfaced and often used for horse box floors.


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## billw (7 Nov 2020)

AJB Temple said:


> What's at the right hand end of the room? You seem to have a thicknesses extending past the wall and a planer (?) right up against the end too.



Yeah this is like a 4mx2m subsection of the garage, which is probably erm..... jeez, 6mx5m?

So the two walls are real, the others are just edges of the space I'm trying to fit stuff into.


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## billw (7 Nov 2020)

AJB Temple said:


> Where you've got your jigsaw, the workbench may as well go the whole length of the room - like a kitchen worktop (or actually a kitchen worktop!).
> 
> The black ply you refer to is probably phenolic. Pre-surfaced and often used for horse box floors.



There's actually some stuff on that "blank" wall, so I need to leave a gap as that's the way to walk through the door (yes. that weird thing on the wall lol) into where the car is parked and all the random junk is stored against the back wall.


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## MikeK (7 Nov 2020)

All shop designs start with something. I did a similar exercise with SketchUp for my shop, and it saved me from making mistakes on my workbench and miter saw workstation.

Unless you have an abundance of 18mm cherry not suitable for anything else, I would use 18mm or 19mm plywood for the cabinets, and 15mm plywood for the drawers. Save the cherry for fine furniture that will be flowing from your shop.

The black surface MFT table is likely the the Valchromat MDF like Dennis from Hooked on Wood uses. I am using the 19mm Valchromat MDF for my workbench. Here is the first of his two-part videos on his ultimate workbench:


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## robgul (8 Nov 2020)

I'd be tempted to see if you can fit the (separate?) planer and thicknesser on a "flip-cart" (see YouTube for ideas/plans) as you'll only use one at a time and save the bench space. I'd also look at mounting machinery and/or benches on wheels to be able to park and then move into position when in use.
The machine you don't have that I would have thought to be worth getting is a sliding mitre saw - and build into the middle of a bench (or between two) with the bed level with the benches.

AND - you'll really need some extraction for the planer and thicknesser . . .


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## billw (8 Nov 2020)

MikeK said:


> The black surface MFT table is likely the the Valchromat MDF like Dennis from Hooked on Wood uses. I am using the 19mm Valchromat MDF for my workbench. Here is the first of his two-part videos on his ultimate workbench:



THATS IT! Thanks Mike, I couldn't remember who posted the thread either so I was really struggling to find it.


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## billw (8 Nov 2020)

robgul said:


> I'd be tempted to see if you can fit the (separate?) planer and thicknesser on a "flip-cart" (see YouTube for ideas/plans) as you'll only use one at a time and save the bench space. I'd also look at mounting machinery and/or benches on wheels to be able to park and then move into position when in use.
> The machine you don't have that I would have thought to be worth getting is a sliding mitre saw - and build into the middle of a bench (or between two) with the bed level with the benches.
> 
> AND - you'll really need some extraction for the planer and thicknesser . . .



Extraction is sorted, it's just omitted from the plans as it'll sit just outside the area and I *tried* to draw on the ductwork but gave up.

I was hoping there would be enough space without moving stuff around, but the planer is so light I can easily put it away, and the thicknesser could go under the bench if need be, but at least I can fold up the tables on it when not in use. 

Nice idea about the saw, that would probably work better if I moved the bandsaw to the other end of its current bench which would leave clearance on both sides of the gap in which to place the mitre saw.


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## robgul (8 Nov 2020)

billw said:


> Extraction is sorted, it's just omitted from the plans as it'll sit just outside the area and I *tried* to draw on the ductwork but gave up.
> 
> I was hoping there would be enough space without moving stuff around, but the planer is so light I can easily put it away, and the thicknesser could go under the bench if need be, but at least I can fold up the tables on it when not in use.
> 
> Nice idea about the saw, that would probably work better if I moved the bandsaw to the other end of its current bench which would leave clearance on both sides of the gap in which to place the mitre saw.



Mitre saw - from your drawing I would be inclined to make the whole length of the space benching on the open side - with the bandsaw at one end (not bolted down so you can move it to get longer material through it) and have a "stepped down shelf" for the mitre saw in the middle.


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## johnny (8 Nov 2020)

billw said:


> Right - so I have figured that one reason I struggle, especially now the nights are drawing in, are that my working space is lit by one 40W lightbulb. Not great to say the least. Plus the only workspace I possess is my bench, and part of that is gone because I've bolted the bandsaw to it. So really, I have 2/3 of a small bench and no other flat surfaces. A lot of my tools are in a roasting tin sitting on a large cardboard box of junk, the rest of them are strewn all over the place, or hanging on the occasional nail in the wall.
> 
> So, I've decided this has to change before I can get round to doing any proper work. So, here's my initial design and some notes on which I'd love some feedback. Sorry that my skills aren't good enough to put in the extraction pipework, although it'll all run up to the ceiling and then off to the chip extractor which will be outside of the area shown.
> 
> ...


If I were to build my workshop again I would use wooden filing cabinets on castors for my power tool stations so that I can have an infinitely flexible space

They are solidly built with drawers. around and some have a very nice finish too
They have castors so you can move then where you need them or push them against a wall when not needed. 
You can push 2 or 3 together to form a long bench when working on longer pieces of timber 
You can drop a router in one file cabinet ,....a table saw in a second and a jigsaw in a third !
With 450Wide x 650deep top dimensions they are an ideal table size for a small workshop .
Store all relevant tools in the drawers with each power tool 
Used file cabinets are as cheap as chips .

Its hardly worth going to all the expense and work building your own units for a small occasional workshop when you ca buy someting to do the job cheaply


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## Heluvaname (8 Nov 2020)

For lighting, rather than a run of LED panels down the centre I would have two runs, one over each row of machines/benches.
If you use decent 600x600 LED panels I'd be surprised if you needed more than 3 in each run.


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## billw (9 Nov 2020)

OK so a few updates based on comments here. I've just ordered 3x 600x600 LED panels at 5000K (which *seemed* to be the right one) which will go in a unit above the wall-mounted plyboards. I've just ordered some softwood to make a frame for them so that will be a really exciting project  

Just so you can see what I'm starting with, this is the state of things.....










As you can see I need to account for the loft ladder which should, hopefully, drop down in the walkway between my two rows of worksurfaces. I'm trying to think of a way I can build in a specific sharpening station so that I can keep the mess away from other surfaces, I'm perhaps thinking of using the space next to the thicknesser as I'll not be able to use that space to dump stuff anyway. Anyhow, that feels a long way off!

There was a ladder stretched across the wall (hence the two unpainted mounting block spaces) and moving that has made things looks lot less cluttered as I was using it as impromptu shelving. The piece of wood holding all the clamps will be next to go before I put two pieces of 18mm ply against the wall and start hanging up my tools to get them off the floor.

Motivation has returned!


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## robgul (9 Nov 2020)

This might get you excited with workshop layout - it certainly appealed to me !


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## Fitzroy (9 Nov 2020)

I'm a firm believer in mobile units. My space is 6m x 3m and stuff is still forever in the way, I have a few bigger tools than you but you're area is cramped. The one thing I think you are definitely missing is 'bottom space' at your bench. I find I need a good 1m of space on the workside of my bench, when doing fine saw work or chisel work I often have my eye at close to bench level, you need space behind you to enable this. 

Another thing I've found a real boon is having separate workbench and assembly bench space. You have this opportunity if the two benches with the band saw, and thicknesser are mobile and you can swing them round to fit back to back, temporarily as a big flat assembly space.

Just my 2p worth.

F.


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## billw (10 Nov 2020)

OK so plenty of revisions. This is the new layout.....






So the new idea is....

1. The bench design has been changed, the Roubo one is nice but expensive and so I've changed it for the MFT bench mentioned above by @MikeK since it has the ability to have a router built in, which gives a better use of space. BTW the bench is just a large box, I couldn't be bothered making a detailed model quite yet!

2. The two fixed units, as shown, will be the same height as the bench to allow me to use them as extensions.

3. The tops of the units will be 30mm Valchromat, and I'm thinking about putting some holes in the sides that face each other to hold some metal pins. Then Resting on those pins will be a spare piece of Valchromat as so to make the two benches become one very large surface for finishing.

4. The space behind the bench will be the home for some smaller mobile units, on which I'll put the planer (currently stored under a bench) and any other tools that get infrequent use. I'll make them the same height as the other units, so that I can then use them as surfaces either side of a mitre saw. or as temporary extensions to the bench. 

5. There's less storage now, but I plan to put some french cleats on the walls (the boards are there so make less mess in the walls) and make some bits to hold things like abrasives, which can be moved around depending on what process I'm working on. There's also the option of putting some pinboards up too.


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## clogs (10 Nov 2020)

Bill,
take a look at this ...recomeded loads'a times....a very clever young man....


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## clogs (10 Nov 2020)

without hi-jacking this thread ...
What do you think of the video......?????????????????


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## Jameshow (10 Nov 2020)

I think you want a wall to separate your woodworking area from car / bike area.
Or at least a shower curtain / NHS bed curtain! that you can pull round when sanding / cutting planning.

Good idea having moveable units and cupboards. I'd have a way of hanging the tool leads on the cupboard doors. Some sort of wonder.

If a table saw is a possibility you could cover with MDF / ply and use it as a mft / assembly table.

Cheers James


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## billw (10 Nov 2020)

clogs said:


> without hi-jacking this thread ...
> What do you think of the video......?????????????????



Loved it! Definitely going to use his design for the clamp rack. Once I have the wall done I'll get to work designing the various holders and sections so I can make sure things are in the most logical place.

I might have to reverse my design so that the benches are on the left and the workbench on the right though, otherwise it's kinda hard to open the car door


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## billw (10 Nov 2020)

Jameshow said:


> I think you want a wall to separate your woodworking area from car / bike area.
> Or at least a shower curtain / NHS bed curtain! that you can pull round when sanding / cutting planning.



Yeah been mulling that over after I saw the coating of sawdust around the place today, the idea of a curtain hadn't occurred but that's definitely added to the list.


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## TJC (10 Nov 2020)

I bought these led tubes from wish.com. They link together so make unbroken runs, they're really good and were fast to install. I'd suggest one kit of these for 2 runs over your benches. 









10Pcs 4FT Integrated T8 LED Tube Light Fixture, AC85-265 LED Shop Light, 36W 3600LM 6500K White, Plug in Warehouse Garage Lights Lighting Linkable V Shape High Output | Wish


Buy 10Pcs 4FT Integrated T8 LED Tube Light Fixture, AC85-265 LED Shop Light, 36W 3600LM 6500K White, Plug in Warehouse Garage Lights Lighting Linkable V Shape High Output at Wish - Shopping Made Fun




www.wish.com





These particular ones ship from within the UK, so arrived quickly for me, with no import nonsense.


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## billw (11 Nov 2020)

Right so today's work has been: -

1. resized workbench from an 800mm depth to 600mm, which is still an increase on my current bench. Also most of the other units I'm making are that size so feels more "modular", and the extra 200mm really makes a mess of the space I'm working to.

2. realised that my plan for lighting would mean that some of the light is being "wasted" as it'll be above the stuff hanging on the walls, but since they're 600x600 panels it's not exactly like there's going to be a shadow issue so abandoned plans to extend the lighting out to account for this. If it's really annoying I can always make easy adjustments.

3. started planning for how to best utilise wall space, there's a random spot next to the door so I'll be building some housed shelving in there to hold handheld power tools but there's switches and things on that wall that I need to account for.

4. resized widths of units so they're all metric - I'd been working to a mixed scale thanks to having some American plans, so I'm now redrawing the plans to be singular system.


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