# Stripping acrylic varnish



## Leif (1 Sep 2013)

I want to strip acrylic varnish from elm (Ercol cupboard). I tested the green Nitromors, and it is not very effective. I tested Wilko eco stripper, and after an hour on, I scraped it and it did an okay job, with sanding removing the rest which seemed to have softened. Does anyone know of anything that is more effective? I am surprised at the toughness of the acrylic finish, it resists sanding far more than nitrocellulose. 

Would an electric heat gun be worth trying? I am loathe to experiment given the damage it might do.


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## Hudson Carpentry (2 Sep 2013)

Moden strippers are lacking a key ingredient due to letter writers complaining how dangerous it is. Sanding will only result in clogged belts or sheets even more so if the finish is now soft. Unless you can get commercial stripper the best way is hard work. Get a set of cabinet scrapers and scrap it off.


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## Cottonwood (2 Sep 2013)

I honestly think nitromors is an expensive relatively inneffective product.....
Hudson is correct, card scarpers are a reliable way. I did the same task just yesterday on some ikea components that are being recycled into various wooden clamps and other tools. I used a scraper I made from an old filed honed & turned polyfilla knife (the old forged type), it works a treat for removing the acylic. The nasty plastic coating is off after a few passes and you start to get wood shavings. Even if you did remove the acrylic with nitromors or whatever, you would still need to scrape anyway for a fine finish, which is what an ercol piece deserves. (I would still use a normal fine sharpened card scraper for the best finish though). I can just see the cupboard refinished with a nice oil and wax, elm is a tasty looking wood...


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## Leif (2 Sep 2013)

Thanks, yes elm is nice. I intend to use Fiddes hardwax oil, having tested it last week I find it better than Danish Oil. I had problems with the latter remaining tacky for a week when applying coat 3, despite having rubbed it in well with a cloth. The hardwax oil is touch dry in 5 minutes, recoatable in 6 hours, only 2 coats needed. 

Looks like cabinet scrapers are the way to go.


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## Leif (6 Sep 2013)

I will look for a scraper his weekend. In the meantime I tested: 

Acetone: little effect as too volatile. 
Isopropyl alcohol: slight effect, too volatile. 
Meths: softens the acrylic, making scraping easier. 

I also tried a sample of a stripper from an online company, smells of pears, looks like starch thickened milk. It is probably a solvent in a water and starch solution to slow down evaporation of the solvent. I left it on 4 hours, and it does a brilliant job. I've bought stuff from these people before and the products are much better than off the shelf strippers. 

Do people here strip inside cupboards and drawers? I didn't strip inside my elm chest of drawers, too hard work.


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## Leif (6 Sep 2013)

Searching online, the solvent might be ethyl acetate. Has anyone made their own stripper using solvent, water and starch (cornflour?) ?


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## mind_the_goat (6 Sep 2013)

"I also tried a sample of a stripper from an online company"

Keeping this to yourself then ? Don't think the rules prevent you saying who and what, unless you happen to be the MD


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## Leif (6 Sep 2013)

No problem: 

http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/

I have no connection with them except as a customer. 

I've used the poultice stripper to get paint off plaster, and it works well, and another one to strip architraves, works well too. I used Solvistrip yesterday. Cheaper than B&Q stripper, but not cheap unless you live next door and can avoid postage. Unlike most strippers, they make a stripper for each substrate and finish.


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