# Glue Blues



## The Wizard (29 Aug 2004)

I have used polyurethane glue for the construction of a garden bench and would like to know the best way of cleaning up the joints after the glue has foamed out. I have pared the bulk of the glue off with a sharp chisel but am still left with a few marks. Can anyone recommend a good way of removing the minor traces remaining? I am concerned that when I oil the timber the glue marks will look a complete mess.
Also, how do I adjust the size of images so I can upload them to the gallery? I am keen to get your view on my finished creation but I get an error saying the image is too large.

Regards

Wiz[/img]


----------



## Waka (30 Aug 2004)

Wiz

I had the same problem with this type of glue when I joined the rails to the balastrade on my decking. I know its to late for you now, because the glue has dried, but I sat there with a damp cloth and removed it as if foamed out.

Did have one or two speck which I carefully removed with scaper (very gently)

Hiope this helps

Waka


----------



## tx2man (30 Aug 2004)

Hi Wiz,
sorry, i use the wiping with a damp sponge thang also  
If you've got a photo editing suite, you can re-size from there

TX


----------



## tx2man (30 Aug 2004)

Have you tried some fine steel wool?

TX


----------



## Anonymous (1 Sep 2004)

try an new stanley knife blade held upright like a scraper.

A bit after the event, but some of the best advice I've ever had from this forum: mask up your joints and put a light coating of finish on before you glue up. Makes cleaning up a doddle (thanks Chris and Alf)

m


----------



## Dewy (15 Sep 2004)

I found poly glue difficult to remove and impossible unless you sand etc to the wood beneath.
I had a coffee table that I had tripped and fallen on so a couple of tenons pulled apart (I hadn't used dowels)
This was repaired with poly glue.
The glue stuck in the joints but not to the surface which had been oiled and waxed.
It just needed a light cut with a stanley knife to remove the excess.


----------



## Shady (20 Sep 2004)

Yup, this is one of those 'learned the hard way moments'...(and I'm not laughing at you, more ruefully with you...) Polyurethane has some great properties, but the 'foaming wall of finish death' isn't one of them... It is the glue, more than all others, that requires pre-masking and 'first finishing', and then you've gotta stand over it with the sacrificial sponge/cloth/rag until it stops...

If it makes you feel any better, some Gorilla glue and my terrier b***h cost me about £1000.... She got into the study while I was remodelling it, but out at work. She found the plastic bottle, and - as you do, obviously (!) - bit into it 'till it started coming out. She then ate an indeterminate amount (why? Oh God, why? - it's not as though it's marketed as 'special gorilla meat flavoured glue - get your dog to lick up any squeeze out'...).

At this point, presumably with her guts getting a little uncomfortable as the glue foamed up inside (and it generates heat too...), she decided to leave the room. The glue gently oozed out of the bottle into the...NEW CARPET. I returned home to find:

a) Giant (about 1 foot across) foam gorilla glue pizza set solid in my study carpet in the middle of the floor - total write off time.

b) Very uncomfortable terrier who would subsequently require lots of expensive vet time, and spent about 2 weeks chucking up little semi digested lumps of gorilla glue

c) Darn expensive pot of gorilla glue empty on top of pizza at (a) above.

I now have a very nice cherry hardwood floor in the study....
I guess,if all else fails, you could use 'Shady's old peculiar terrier stomach acid' - I guarantee you it does dissolve gorilla glue... slowly :roll:


----------



## Bean (20 Sep 2004)

Dogs eh! don't you just love them when they help you :wink: 


Bean


----------

