# Display cabinet by Devonwoody



## devonwoody (26 Mar 2011)

Back into the workshop today and went through my timber stock looking for suitable timber to start on a display cabinet.

Brought it indoors to acclimatise to central heating conditions after being in sheds for around 5 years.












I am thinking of making the sides using the suggestion by Mailee (shaker style mortises) and the door a traditional M/T.

Making it on the hoof with rough sketches as I go along.

Back in around four weeks.


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## mailee (27 Mar 2011)

I will look forward to the build Woody. I also have a display cabinet to build but in MRMDF I am afraid. :wink:


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## devonwoody (28 Mar 2011)

Knocked up a sketch today.


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## devonwoody (14 Apr 2011)

Did a bit of machining today, planed up sides and cut to approximate thicknesses.

Cutting the preliminary thickness on the table saw I got a lot of chatter, why was that?

Incidentally two more pics attached of the tablesaw top. The main table has hardly been affected by weather conditions over winter (it had a poly sheet over the table with timber keeping it in contact with tabletop)
The extension table had no poly and has a rust layer, so I have learnt something.

BTW how do I post pics in order to align with typed comments?


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## Chems (14 Apr 2011)

Pictures will align if they are pasted as links, or the insert the attachments using the place inline function just below the text box. Like:



This. Looks like this in the reply:


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Pictures will align if they are pasted as links, or the insert the attachments using the place inline function just below the text box. Like:



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My SIP saw was a bit bad after the winter to, nothing like yours just a few spots. So I sanded it down with the ROS, its quite hard work but looked as good as new when done with a fresh waxing:


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## devonwoody (15 Apr 2011)

With regard to the rust on the extension table, I think it will be too onerous and messy to clean off, I am going to try sticking some vinyl wallpaper over the top of the rust or a sheet of hardboard. What your views?


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## Tusses (15 Apr 2011)

I use phosphoric acid for cleaning up / restoring rusty cast iron.

You can get it from car parts places. some allow wheel cleaner has it. or just look for a rust remover. 

Just rub it into the rust with some wire wool, and it comes up pretty nice. (dont forget rubber/latex gloves ! )


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## Chems (15 Apr 2011)

I don't know why you'd say it would be messy. I just use the ROS dry on mine with dust extraction and then wipe the table with a cloth until the cloth comes off clean. Then on with a layer of wax. I did the same with an old planer a few years back, was a ton of work as it was very rusty but came up nicely in the end.


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## devonwoody (16 Apr 2011)

Thanks for tips, Chems. what is ROS?


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## mtr1 (16 Apr 2011)

Random orbit sander.


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## devonwoody (16 Apr 2011)

mtr1":wzm8ev5b said:


> Random orbit sander.




I must start taking those tablets again. :lol:


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## Eric The Viking (16 Apr 2011)

Phosphoric acid is found in cola (brown fizzy drink). It does work as a rust remover, but it's better with stuff you can dip and wash afterwards. I saw someone on TV recently suggesting cola was good as a loo/drain cleaner! It's very cheap as the private label stuff in supermarkets, so might be worth a punt.

E.


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## devonwoody (17 Apr 2011)

Actually Eric, it also works as a flux when soldering with some solders.

Back to the garden maintenance again, the seedlings have all come up at once.


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## Eric The Viking (17 Apr 2011)

devonwoody":lx8b6oo0 said:


> Actually Eric, it also works as a flux when soldering with some solders.
> 
> Back to the garden maintenance again, the seedlings have all come up at once.



Useful in an emergency! I knew phosphoric acid was a flux, but not cola!

. . .

On the gardening front, sort-of, this appeared in our dining room:






It keeps muttering, "feed me!" But it's only ever getting cold tea, per usual.

I'm dead impressed though, as the flowers are quite a bit bigger than last year, and it looks ,from the position of the new leaves, as if it may even flower twice this year. We've got two more that are pink rather than red, with bigger flowers, but they seem to go over really fast. This one's managed a week so far with all three flowers open. 

Just a bit of fun really...

E.


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## devonwoody (21 Apr 2011)

Got some brownie points in this week and helped with the gardening.  

So I had two sessions in the workshop during the day and prepared the oak pieces and then cut 1/4" dadoes on the router table.






Then I cut all lengths to rough size.






Then the temperature went over 80far. so I called it a day.

Hoping to make mortises on the router and cut tenons on my sled tomorrow.


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## devonwoody (22 Apr 2011)

I got in two sessions today.

Started by cutting mortises on router table, set up stop blocks both ends and dropped timber on to running bit and pushed along to the stop to create the length of mortise. Did two passes on each cut in rotation.
Blocks marked with crosses on picture. I did have a problem setting distance from fence to cut mortises because I eyeballed the cutting position but it has worked out well.








Cut tenons on my table saw using a sled.






One tenon I over cut so had to glue some cheeks back on and recut. (I should have used a test piece to set blade height)






Side frames dry assembled and my stress on the project as been released.






Door for front (slighter narrower) also dry fitted.







I have now got to decide to cut off one of the dado sides to accommodate glass.
I would like to use the router freehand after the sides and front have been glued up, but not being an experienced router user I would ask how to proceed with the cutting directions, I know there is something about rotor blade direction for safety. So please advise.


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## mailee (22 Apr 2011)

In the past when I have needed to cut out for glass I made a false baseplate on my router with a pointed block of timber on the bottom set the required distance from the cutter. This block would then follow the inside lower edge while the cutter removed the upper edge. Then just square off the corners with a chisel. simples!  HTH. :wink:


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## devonwoody (23 Apr 2011)

Mailee, thanks for your suggestion, my Triton router is such a big lump I cannot see that working for me. Looks like I shall have to cut off the glass rebate using a the router table and set blocks again and machine before I glue up. Then cut the corners by hand?


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## devonwoody (24 Apr 2011)

OK, I cut off the glass rebates on the router table using blocks to restrict cut to required lengths. However my accident of the season, I removed the straight router bit to exchange for a larger cutter and when removing the bit stuck in the collet and my fingers ran up the exposed blade because the cutter did not come free of the collet and ouch!.






However sticky tape only required and I carried on and glued up the two outside frames (and also the door frame) as per picture.






Then came to a stop, temperature went over 80far again but humidity is less than 50%, lovely. That should do the workshop stock and equipment some good.


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## devonwoody (25 Apr 2011)

Popped into the W/S late afternoon and tidied up the frames.

Cut corners square ready for 2mm glass. 
Also cut off horns, but I do have a problem, one of the narrow top cross pieces must have moved when being glued up. Then I cut off horns without noticing and now I have one frame which is short. I am going to hang door on the outside of the frame instead of inside hoping I can bullshit my way out of this boo boo.


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## devonwoody (28 Apr 2011)

Cleaned up the frames, got some 2mm glass cut together with a mirror in readiness for the long weekend forthcoming and set the frames in position.
I am happy at the moment with the door frame being slightly less high it should mean the door opening and closing in its frame more comfortable.







Then set up my bandsaw ready for another season and did a test cut, eyeballed the centre cutting line of some black walnut and got a perfect cut. I think that bandsaw blade supplied by Ian must now be in its fourth season.






Prepared a top moulding for display case with that black walnut, however I shall have to plane off the lip of moulding because the timber edge is subject to break off.






So looking forward to another session tomorrow after this feed up. A neighbour brought in a feed of mackerel, the first of this years catch from Torbay.


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## devonwoody (30 Apr 2011)

I am awaiting instructions on hanging of the display cabinet (its location and method) so I had a vacant slot in my W/S but decided to make a tissue box for some Australian visitors arriving in Devon shortly (10 days time).

So dug out this slab of maple and cut off two slices on the bandsaw.






Found some off cuts of black walnut.






and prepared to strips 10mm thickness.






Studying the Exif information on timings of pictures above I see that the above took place over a period of 1 hour 3 minutes.

Went back in the workshop after the wedding, tidied up my workbench found all these lovely pieces of offcuts put them in a transparent container and they will be used I hope for another box in the near future. 







In the meantime an email has arrived giving me carte blanc on hanging of display cabinet which is now to be designed. I then glued up the strips prepared in the morning ready for working on today making sides of tissue box.


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## devonwoody (2 May 2011)

Back to the display cabinet after some thinking time.

Completed the top and bottom plate, used some black walnut and an oak ply centre infill.






I put all the timber items and glass on to some scales and with the trophy it is going to weigh over 5lbs. nearly 2 kilos. Decided that the present frames of the cabinet were not substantial enough to bear its weight when hung in a hall at it intended home. Therefore I decided to make an additional back frame in oak 35mm x 16mm as the picture below.






Normally I would rip the oak used on my tablesaw but because the bandsaw was in such a good mood and saved changing the tablesaw blade I ripped as per picture,






Then was able to cut tenons on my tablesaw without having to change the blade.






Mortises were cut by hand using my 55 year old mortise chisel ( which had a resharpen and grind for its first time in many years on you know what. (T7)






So I am now approaching the glue up stage for all items and wondering :!:


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## stoatyboy (2 May 2011)

Nice thread - and good to see you back in the shop - as ever building stuff at a speed that puts me to shame

cheers


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## devonwoody (3 May 2011)

Another day.

I want to glaze the frames and door of cabinet before gluing up, this is because the frames are oak and pinning in glass beads I know must be difficult because of the hard timber.
So I needed beads of 4mmx 7mm with a round over edge. My thicknesser will not thickness under 7mm so I got out that packing board which is 15.8mm thick so if I set the machine at 19.8mm I should come out the other end at 4mm!.











This worked out OK and I rounded over the strips both edges on the router table and then took them over to the tablesaw and reduced them to the 7mm widths required as per picture. (you might be interested in that Axminster hold down, it holds the timber against the fence and down on to the table)






beading strips now ready for the glazing. I am going to pre drill frame and beading, I would like to use brass pins but I don't think I will succeed? 
Any suggestions ?


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## Eric The Viking (3 May 2011)

devonwoody":mw5h1har said:


> I am going to pre drill frame and beading, I would like to use brass pins but I don't think I will succeed?



Why not? If you're pre-drilling it ought to work fine, surely?

You might still get bronze pins from a chandlers. Almost the same colouir, especially if polished, but that little bit stiffer.

I like the holddown, by the way. It's a simple but good idea, and fairly easy to make up, methinks.

E..


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## devonwoody (3 May 2011)

Eric, thank you for the chandler tip, we have got one down at the harbour.

The ali hold down by the way is cranked so it will also hold down thicker pieces as well. But it was quite cheap at Axminster and it holds well in the mitre slot, it seems to expand in the slot, I dont know why tho!


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## bosshogg (3 May 2011)

devonwoody":12iwwrka said:


> Actually Eric, it also works as a flux when soldering with some solders.
> 
> I caught the flux once when I was soldiering with some soldiers
> 
> ...


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## devonwoody (3 May 2011)

bosshogg":7jhp4mmj said:


> devonwoody":7jhp4mmj said:
> 
> 
> > Actually Eric, it also works as a flux when soldering with some solders.
> ...




And did it burn your fingers. :roll:


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## Anonymous (3 May 2011)

I really do enjoy your wips, good work with a few extra pics thrown in of the mackerel etc, would make for a good blog.


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## bosshogg (3 May 2011)

No, I got sore feet though, these soldiers are a hard bunch,,,*Mum can you run me a mustard bath*



> you cant fix a problem thinking the same way that created it


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## devonwoody (4 May 2011)

Bad day Tuesday. Decided I would have to fit the hinges before glazing, and I know I definitely purchased some quality forged brass hinges last year and I spent hours looking for them. (they are in a glass jar) No luck. However I did find these fixing pins, old boot tacks and model railway brass track pins etc. So dug out my dremel and small drill bits, cannot put them in an electric drill, they would only last about three seconds :shock: 






Also got a deadline to meet on that tissue box so machined and glued up the lid portion.


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## devonwoody (5 May 2011)

Found some older hinges and cleaned them up and prepared door and carcass frames to fit. 






This project is quite demanding for me because although I had drawn a sketch I have no directions to follow and the order of assembling is quite demanding. I have now decided I have got to have a mounting trophy box inside the carcass so that I can create a square cabinet when gluing is commenced on frames. (The door will not help the squaring up operation). 

Keeping up to the deadline on the tissue box I set up the lid timber as per pictures below.


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## devonwoody (6 May 2011)

Disaster on the lid shown above.






I had earlier remove the guide wheel from the router bit and when rounding over this aperture I had forgotten to put it back.  

So recut the lid through the centre and used a plate to mark out the replacement hole and cut again on the bandsaw then reglued.











Back to the display cabinet, cut and fitted glazing beads.






Then varnished beads and internal glazing on areas on all pieces.






Earlier I had decided to add an additional back plate for more support because of the weight of the cabinet, now I realise that the top and bottom plate will not be large enough. I am loathe to remake plates and I want to extend the length of these two pieces and as you can see on the picture they are mitred corner joints.
I am contemplating cutting off the mouldings all round and then adding new external border moulding to bring back to a new fit.






But my brain wonders how to do this, do you know?


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## devonwoody (8 May 2011)

Assembly of cabinet has now started.

Fitting of glass beading. The oak frames and beading will no way take hammering of bead tacks. (I would like to take the frames along to a picture framer and have asked him to use his tacking equipment)
I purchased what I thought were brass pins and intended to cut off the heads but have since found that the pins are only brass plated after inserting in frames and now cannot remove heads.
To get the pins in I had to predrill as per picture.






Glass is in and the first side glued to the back frame, using a square jammed against upright one end and a clamp the other.






Brought the frame indoors for the warmth, its cold at night again. 






BTW I have finished the tissue box in time for our Australian visitors. 
The Chesnut sealer, I did a trial run on a piece of scrap because it is two years old and I was concerned that it would not set and remain sticky, but it is OK. So Chesnut you have a good product there.


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## bosshogg (8 May 2011)

You could rout the base & top rails of the cabinet to match that of the top & bottom plates, very much like a beading joint! :idea: I assume that originally, you were contemplating spacers for mounting the unit to the wall, as the plates would have bean bigger than the cabinet, that is in it's original configuration??...bosshogg


> even a stupid man gets it right sometimes (homer)


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## devonwoody (8 May 2011)

Thanks Besshogg, thats a good idea. (hammer) (hammer) (hammer)

Edit, Oh. what about the front door????


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## bosshogg (8 May 2011)

But if the only thing changed is the overall outside dims, it follows that the door will still fit. My suggestion is only the top and bottom rails to be routed on the meeting corners with the base and top plates with a round over (or something like that) so that where they join a bead joint will show, something like 


...bosshogg



> even a stupid man can be right sometimes


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## devonwoody (9 May 2011)

The carcass is assembled and gluing taking place as per picture.
No clamps used but the usual screwed blocks jamming cabinet against a straight edge etc. Plus some heavy Australian timbers (they weigh a ton) to stop any shake whilst glue sets.






Photograph taken this morning and things are reasonably square.






The tenons on the back frame have not yet been glued so I can fit the doors and then finalise the setting space.

I did not realise how long this would take to make but at the present time there are 38 pieces and an internal platform to make plus a remake of top and bottom plates still to come. 
We have Australian visitors arriving so no posting anticipated for a while.


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## devonwoody (17 May 2011)

Returned to the project after departure of visitors.

The display case is being assembled in sections which I think is not the normal process, the reason I am going this route is because I have no working plan or instructions sheet to follow also not having made an item like this before I don't know what is quite round the corner!

So pictures below show the back bars being glued to the left hand side, the top bar has been recessed to accommodate a holding plate which will be shown at a later date.











Oh! it would be so nice to have a construction plan, it would mean me not waking at those early hours in the morning and realising that a further problem has arisen


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## devonwoody (18 May 2011)

I started on fitting the hinges and found that the brass screw heads are oversized so drilled with a bit to largen dimensions, however there was a soft spot and the drill went completely through the countersunk area and now the screw will not hold at all. So I intend to put a screw in anyway and then solder its head to the hinge. Any better ideas please advise, (hammer) 

Pictures below shows how I held the hinges doing the above operation.












Cannot show you the result today of fitted hinges  They will need some more adjustment to correct some problems. (sorry about that one but it was bad)

However I did glue the other side to back frame. (The tin of preservative is just a counter weight so the job did not fall off the bench)


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## devonwoody (18 May 2011)

I am pleased to report that hinges are now set.






The past woodwork teacher of many years ago would be wiping his eyes but the hinges do work.

Put the back and mirror in position and stood the cup on a temporary stand.






I have struck lucky with the top and bottom plate made sometime ago, the are going to be used partly as a platform and the other an internal top plate.


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## devonwoody (20 May 2011)

Fitted the internal platform and secured the fourth dimension across the front of the cabinet for the first time






I now have to remake a top and bottom plate of cabinet to complete the woodwork for this piece.

A length of black walnut again selected but because of its condition, although it was 27mm thick I wasted away 14 mm of this getting to finished thickness. The short end left will come in for another TB.











I reckon there are now 49 pieces of timber in this cabinet and when adding metal items like screws, hinges, glazing and fixing bits the total will be nearly 90 items.


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## devonwoody (22 May 2011)

Nearly there!

Top and bottom plate ready to be glued on.






sorry about the sunshine!






The door at the present time holds its closed position perfectly and I have not decided whether to put a couple of slivers of timbers on its frame edge and carcass inside edge and let the door bump over those ridges to hold closed or find some magnetic way of holding doors closed in the future.

Getting some timber together to make some tissue boxes, I've got withdrawal symptoms.


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## Orcamesh (22 May 2011)

It's looking very good DW!! Well done! You are speeding ahead of me (I wish I was retired)! I am also scratching my head about how to hold my doors shut on my display cabinet. I have come to the conclusion that some sort of magnetic catch is needed. I am thinking of burying the magnet (possibly a rare earth magnet) deep inside a drilled hole in the top/bottom of the main carcass and then having some flush mounted metallic plates inset into the doors at the appropriate places. Probably one top & bottom of each door. My doors will overlap the front edges of the carcass. 

Have you (or anyone else) used rare earth magnets in this way before? I guess this depends on the dimensions of the REM and its corresponding magnetic strength, but my idea is to trial it at different drilled hole depths as I want to make sure that the right amount of attraction is available for the doors and so that you do not need a crow bar to open them! :shock: 

Or is it better to just use a normal magnet?

cheers
Steve


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## devonwoody (23 May 2011)

Sorry Orcamesh, I cannot help you on the magnet question but happy for anyone to advise us both.

Started the clean up operations today but made a list of jobs still to do on cabinet and got a surprise, fit tops, bottoms, door knob some mouldings etc.etc. and in the meantime I decided to collect some timber together to prepare for tissue boxes.


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## grahamar (23 May 2011)

Hi devonwoody,

The cabinet looks really good and I've learnt alot from your WIP - thanks for posting it.

With regard to rust on the table saw ( a few posts back ) - when shutting down for winter I spray the metal surface with WD40 ( liberally) and then drop a sheet of cling film over it. The cling film can be pressed in the nooks and crannies, other bits ripped off and stuck down if you miss a bit. 
I do the same for the planner bed, spray it with WD40 and put a layer of cling film over the top. For my shoulder plane I spray it and wrap it in cling film. 
When starting up again - remove cling film, wipe off the WD40 residue and you're ready to get going. Hope that might help.

Graham


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## Richard T (23 May 2011)

Re the screw that won't bite, if 'twere me, I would drill the hole out wider, glue in a plug, pilot hole the plug and screw into that.
' course I don't know if this too small an arrangement for this trick to work. 
Looking V good.


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## Paul Chapman (23 May 2011)

Richard T":iw1p7vdg said:


> Re the screw that won't bite, if 'twere me, I would drill the hole out wider, glue in a plug, pilot hole the plug and screw into that.
> ' course I don't know if this too small an arrangement for this trick to work.



I would do the same. For a plug I generally use the old-style fibre Rawlplugs.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## devonwoody (23 May 2011)

Thanks, you are right.

However its the brass hinge counter sink hole I have overdrilled the screws goes right through the eyelet and its around a size 8 screw needed which is too large for hinge.


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## devonwoody (25 May 2011)

Thanks also for the tip on closing down the c.i. tops over winter, I shall give that a try this year.

Some more progress on tiding up again yesterday and I fortunately had a message flash at 3am this morning to fit the back mirror before putting the top plate on permanently, that was a close one!


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## Richard T (25 May 2011)

"its the brass hinge counter sink hole I have overdrilled the screws goes right through the eyelet "

Aha ... must have been reading too fast. 

How about a small, thin brass washer - if thin enough would take the form of the countersink under pressure from the underside of the screw head and, hopefully, be invisible when done.


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## bosshogg (25 May 2011)

The smallest brass cup washer might do it (hammer)...bosshogg 



> No man is an island


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## devonwoody (25 May 2011)

Good ideas come in two's.

I have got some very thin brass sheet, paper thickness or less from my model railway days so will give that a try.


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## devonwoody (26 May 2011)

I had a very good day yesterday in the W/S.

All wood work items are now fitted and it also brought back some happy memories of previous years on the forum.

The banding fitted to the front platform in the picture below marked with an arrow was given to me as a gift by LyNX many years ago together with some veneers and various other banding designs. Thanks again LyNX, don't see much of you on the forum.

The door knob was also given to me with five other turnings perhaps as much as five years ago by a member in Sheffield, sorry your name defeats me at the moment.

So to above and others thanks.

Photographs below show the little finishing jobs completed yesterday.


























And finally awaiting varnish and hanging.






Mirror fitted, top and bottom plates, beading to plate edges, banding to platform front and door knob fitted. I awoke early as usual this morning and I think I counted 56 pieces of timber have gone into the making of cabinet.

Taking it to its hanging place tomorrow to check that my fitting idea is practical and I will give more details later on its location, because I am awaiting a plaque which is going to be fitted to the front door panel.


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## devonwoody (14 Jun 2011)

This is the final workshop photograph of the display cabinet before leaving my workshop today.






The plaque was unfixed, this was attached later at the Royal British Legion Branch Torquay.






I have posted a new thread titled Royal British Legion display cabinet in projects with a brief history of this commission.


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## DOOGYREV (16 Jun 2011)

I like your Display Cabinet Devon Woody, Very nice! 



Orcamesh":349gtrrx said:


> It's looking very good DW!! Well done! You are speeding ahead of me (I wish I was retired)! I am also scratching my head about how to hold my doors shut on my display cabinet. I have come to the conclusion that some sort of magnetic catch is needed. I am thinking of burying the magnet (possibly a rare earth magnet) deep inside a drilled hole in the top/bottom of the main carcass and then having some flush mounted metallic plates inset into the doors at the appropriate places. Probably one top & bottom of each door. My doors will overlap the front edges of the carcass.
> 
> Have you (or anyone else) used rare earth magnets in this way before? I guess this depends on the dimensions of the REM and its corresponding magnetic strength, but my idea is to trial it at different drilled hole depths as I want to make sure that the right amount of attraction is available for the doors and so that you do not need a crow bar to open them! :shock:
> 
> ...


 
Yes I have experimented with magnets a lot, I love magnets, you can do all that and more, and now you can get pretty much any size shape and strength, so the possibilities are endless. 
My two favorite methods for holding cabinet doors shut are 
1. slotting a small rectangular neodymium magnet into the tenon during door assembly, and then I use a small round washer shaped neodymium magnet, behind the top rail & under the base, I adjust the strength by altering the gap. 
2. Drilling holes to house even stronger round neodymium magnets, behind the hinges on the frame and the door, the lever of the door makes it easy to open, and the resistance/force is at the corners of the cabinet , ie. you don't pull the cabinet over when you open the door. 
Did I say I love Magnets.


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