# Guide Rail for Circular Saw and Router



## Chems

I need a guide rail, but I'm against buying what essentially is a grooved track.

I started off with some 1.5m MDF, cut around 6 inches or so wide. The smaller piece will be the runner and the larger bit the track:




I started off by grooving the track:




Then the runner. Ive made one longer one then cut a smaller section that will be for my router. The marks of what look like glue are just wax I got on there accidentally. 





Then just 2 holes in the base of the saw and 2 in the runner making sure they are well countersunk and together with some bolts. .




Its important you make it so that the when your done the blade is actually over the MDF, this means your first cut with the system will give you the exact edge you will get, as you can see in this shot. I can't do that yet as I'm waiting for my new freud blade to turn up and want it accurate for that blade. 

After thats done turn the track over and run a very shallow dovetail down the board in the centre.




Once that is done you need to make to dovetail runners like this.




Then take the top off your aldi quick clamps as you will see in the background, glue 2 bits of MDF either side and drill a hole for the bolt this will secure these to the top of the clamps. And then there you go a guide rail system. I haven't done this last step but I will tomorrow and get pictures. 

Hope this saves some people some money, I know it will save me a lot of time and money.


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## OPJ

I like your way of thinking with this, Chems. :wink: I made a simpler version of something fairly similar earlier this year but, there's nothing on my jig to stop the saw from wandering away from the jig (you appear to have it sussed).

The only downside I can see is that you are restricting the available depth of cut. Assuming you're only going to use it with sheet materials though, you should be fine.  

I look forward to seeing how the clamps fit on there. Will you be making a separate one for the router or can you use the other side of the same jig?


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## mailee

I too made a simple version of this for my circular saw and the router. To stop it moving around as I found I couldn't always use clamps on it I placed some non slip tape to the underside, it works great and with just the weight of the saw/router it doesn't slip even on worktop! Got the non slip tape from Lidl.


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## Chems

Thanks OPJ, its specifically for some 18mm stuff and sheet material I'm only losing a few cm of cut so it should be ok as the saw has a full plunge of 64mm. 

I have an identical carriage thats a little shorter that I will use for my smaller router thats basically the off cut from the saws runner. 

I'm off out in a mo to do the clamps, they will need a block putting on the lower jaw to close the gap otherwise I wont be able to clamp thin material, other than that though should work fine. I'll also get some no slip tape and put it on there, thanks for the tip maliee.


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## wizer

Very clever. You can't beat my EZ rails for weight, expandability, minimal loss of depth and ease of clamping. Not to mention 0 Chip-out on both sides of the cuts.


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## Chems

I looked at buying them, but it would mean I'd have to buy a new CS and its starting to get very expensive. I tell you what wizer, when mine is finished and has a freud blade in, we will both do a cut with our rail systems and see what the difference is? I'd love to see how close to a good rail system I've gotten. Also how does the EZ system insure a splinter free cut on both sides? Obviously the rail side is supported by the rail, what about the offside of the blade?

Ive just thought of how to make an even better cut. I will attach another double thickness of MDF to the base of the circular saw thats overhanging the rail, this will mean that both sides of the cut will be supported and should help with the splinter free-ness.


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## wizer

It's a shame your not local, I would have been more than willing to give you a demo.

WRT chip free on both sides. Think about how a Zero Clearance insert works on a TS. You need to cover the blade on both sides.


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## wizer

actually, what you should have done is bought the EZ Smart Base and then built your rail around that. However, the light weigh aluminium and the fact you can extend it to as long or short as you like makes the whole system so attractive.


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## Chems

Yes I see, I will try and do something similar. Need to order up a freud blade and I'm ready to go.


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## OPJ

Another thoughts, Chems... With the router, you'll only be able to use it with the same diameter cutter, won't you?


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## Chems

I think with the router I wont be able to use it as the edge been exactly where it will cut. It will have to be an offset edge. I have a table now so really its for the CS but it would be good for inlay work and such if I ever dare to try.

I've made up a zero clearance type thing from the scraps of MDF to go over the blade. Soon as I get a new blade I will be ready to go.


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## Jake

wizer":3bsnh38d said:


>



Interesting picture - I've been asking since Dino first posted about this as to how it doesn't screw up the guarding, and several devotees have sworn blind it doesn't - you can see there that it does.


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## wizer

yes I'm not going to argue there, you do loose some of the guarding from the front of the blade. I'm not sure how dangerous this really is? The fact it's never entered my mind probably says the risks involved are minimal.


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## wizer

You can see here with the AC2 (The antichip insert used on the guide rails) that the amount of exposed blade is not a hug amount.


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## Green

> The fact it's never entered my mind probably says the risks involved are minimal.



...says the man who routed his finger to bits :lol: 

Chems, cool idea. I am going to steal it.

Copying the festool anti-chip method looks easiest to make and safer to.


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## Tom K

Green":20tq7eq4 said:


> The fact it's never entered my mind probably says the risks involved are minimal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...says the man who routed his finger to bits :lol:
Click to expand...


:lol: Funny but a little harsh :lol: Saw accidents certainly give new meaning to the old adage Measure once cut twice.

Regards Tom


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## Green

no offence intended... 

Getting back on track - Looking at the pictures Wizer posted, the Eureka AC-1 anti-chip thingy doesn't need to hold the guard open quite so much, surely it only needs to go as far back as the gullets of the blade or even just the the back edge of the teeth?


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## wizer

yes the blade is only exposed a tiny bit more than it normally is with a circular saw. I've not seen the festool guard in action, does that cover the blade in action? Personally, through weight alone, I'd never buid my own saw rails.


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## Tom K

Funny thing circular saws you cant cut anything until you expose the blade a bit. I will admit they scare the pants off me at times but the
Murricans seem to chuck them about in the way we treat a drill or cordless screwdriver and never come a cropper why is that?
Or is it just they don't show the video that ends with bloody stumps :?


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## Chems

I think people reley to much on guards etc, the real thing thats going to keep you safe is common sense. At the end of the day the only difference between my rail and a bought rail is one is made of metal. The design principles are all identical. If your sawing wood some of the blade needs to be exposed, I for one will be keeping both hands above the saw and my legs away from the bottom!


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## Green

I once reached under a sheet of ply I was cutting to feel if the blade was deep enough... it wasn't thankfully. :shock: 

Im sure my name will be listed in the Darwin awards one day.


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## HeathRobinson

I like your home made guides Chems. It's an idea that crossed my mind too, having just bought myself a circular saw. That was until I realised the chicken and egg situation that results from not having a means to cut or route a straight enough line yet. The base is, of course, no problem because the saw will cut it off as you describe, just the guide part. One could press the saw up against a factory edge on some offcut I suppose but that would only stop the saw from wondering in one direction. I like the idea of preventing wondering in either direction like your jig does. I opted for a bought guide as a result. I can now make as many guides as I like, but I wanted that first means of cutting a straight part. A chicken and egg situation that many new woodworkers find themselves in I'm sure. I guess there might be a market on here for well made wooden guide systems or a shared guide system that newbies swap with eachother in order to cut their own guides like yours  Could be cheaper than the bought ones.


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## YCF Dino

Jake":1xbn8zmj said:


> wizer":1xbn8zmj said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting picture - I've been asking since Dino first posted about this as to how it doesn't screw up the guarding, and several devotees have sworn blind it doesn't - you can see there that it does.
Click to expand...


Jake,
You have to put your hand in the opening in order to cut yourself.
5 years without any accidents reported...it must be safe.
The base is only one part of a potential accident.
The strong guide rails don't allow any flex/binding.
(The reason for a kickback) 

Happy new year guys.


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## Benchwayze

wizer":l73pv2rk said:


> It's a shame your not local, I would have been more than willing to give you a demo.
> 
> WRT chip free on both sides. Think about how a Zero Clearance insert works on a TS. You need to cover the blade on both sides.



I might be an old 'nanny', but a friend of mine took his thumb off, using a portable, circular saw, without a guide. In those days the surgeons didn't sew digits back on. 

Frightens the life out of me when I see them used like this on TV... No names no pack-drill!


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## wizer

I do think that a EZ/Festool/DeWalt or even Chems type saw guide is the safest you can be with a CS. It's common sense (sorry) to not put your hands under the thing your cutting/keep wires out the way and to let it stop before you lift it. I like to have my rail long enough to I can park the saw at the start and end of the cut. Without these guides you have more chance of a cut wandering or jumping, etc. None of these powered tools are safe, really, are they?

I mean if your the sort of silly person to rout a chunk out of your finger, maybe you're in the wrong hobby..   :-k :roll:


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## Benchwayze

Well the accident didn't happen to me Wiz... It also happened when portable power tools were in their infancy to the DIY'ers.

But from memory, the saw twisted in the cut, and kicked back. The guard didn't retract quick enough and my pal didn't get his hand out the way quick enough. Result; minus one thumb. To me it was akin to ripping on a Saw-table, without using the fence. 

I don't tempt providence, but I've had almost 50 years of using machine tools. So far the worst injury I had was a deep cut from my guillotine. And that was caused by snatching my hand away in 'panic'. I dragged my finger into the blade. If I'd kept still it wouldn't have happened. 

A good Doctor stitched it well, but when it's cold my finger still stings!!


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## wizer

My Dad was once good friends with an extremely skilled and wealthy furniture maker (now lost touch). He had lost his thumb and finger somehow in his work. Everytime me and Dad did anything that might be a bit dangerous he'd say "Remember Dave's fingers".

Seems like I Forgot that in my adulthood. :roll:


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## Benchwayze

Hmmm.. A lesson to remember; learning from someone else's mistook! 
Empathise with your friend and your Dad sounds like a wiseman.  

Which brings me to another piont.. I bought a Trend 'clamp 'n guide'. It didn't work well for me. Lost grip and irt was a real pain to get the thing dead square across a panel. 

I am looking at this MDF guide described here, but I might still wind up buying one of those specially designed metal jobs. Any further thoughts Wizer? 

cheers.


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## wizer

Well everyone knows my thoughts on the EZ smart system and I know there are more happy users (but less vocal) on these ere forums.

The thing with MDF rails is they're bloody heavy and of a fixed length.

What you get from EZ is exactly that, it makes cutting board materials Easy. I don't sign up to his Power Bench idea but, again, others here have and love it. As a system it is marginally safer than the DIY methods.

It's not that much cheaper than the basic Festool system really (depending on whether you buy or already have a saw), but if you buy everything you need at once then I'd say you'd make a substantial saving. Remember, a half decent saw with a good blade can cut, chip-free, on the EZ Smart system.

Those are my thoughts and my thoughts I shared.


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## Chems

So the freud blade arrived today, 48teeth on 180 diameter blade looks like a lot. I quickly cut the excess of the guide edge so now have a true edge. 

I think I am going to make a slightly longer one in the week at 2.5meters long as the quality of cut from this blade is fantastic and I want to utilse the good technology and its only 3 passes on the router table and I'll have it ready to use. 

There is absolutely no need for splinter guard using this, I just did a quick pine cross cut and its the best finish I've ever gotten from any machine, router included.


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## chippy1970

Chems,

If the 2.5m is for ripping 8 x 4 sheets I would say you would want to make it a bit longer to allow for starting the saw off and the run off.

Sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs  


I just bought a long rail for my Festool I went for the 2700 just enough to start with the saw plunged already. Cost me £138 nearly but I am glad I got it before they put their prices up on new years day, the same rail is now £188 ouch.


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## Benchwayze

Green":mfeiw1ns said:


> I once reached under a sheet of ply I was cutting to feel if the blade was deep enough... it wasn't thankfully. :shock:




Full marks for coughing (admitting) to that one!


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## ivan

I wish I could use a new blade for every cut....until then I'll continue double cutting, back at 3mm to score, and forward at full depth. You do need a retractable riving knife for this though.

To get a really straight edge (factory edges are often mms out) run a guide bearing router bit along an engineers straight edge - the 2M one you set your planer tables with.


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