# Idea in the pipline



## RussianRouter (9 Jun 2010)

Started on plans for making my router table.

The inserrt will be perspex and the table is kitchen worktop with two hinged flaps for dropdown and easy storage when not in use.

Anyway I've hit on an idead that affects most if not all table router users and thats....the dreaded spanner and bit changing.

The idea is to have an easy accessible arm at the side/front that locks the router spindle/shaft in place and an arm that pushes the spanner head onto the collet nut to undo or tighten the nut.

This idea will incorporate a low audible warning beep to indicate that the spanner and locking pin are not fully disengaged from the router for safty purposes.

The spanner and Locking pin will be on a long threaded rod which can be obtained fom most tool and builders suppliers as will any bits and pieces that are used to make the idea.

Only problem I can forsee at the moment is it will only work with routers that have a hole in the motors shaft should the conventional push button fail or become disfunctional?


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## mailee (9 Jun 2010)

You might want to check out this article on John Lucas's site. 
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/table-8.htm


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## RussianRouter (9 Jun 2010)

Thanks thats more or less the idea,but my one will incorporate the spanner and locking pin on the same device ie no need for a seperate locking pin and spanner. 
in a nutshell you wind the locking pin in the spanner locks into the nut and then you just untighten or tighten with a bar sticking out at the side or front of the table.


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## RussianRouter (9 Jun 2010)

Neat trick there to be had ie the rubber grommet as spacers to fit the bits in the collet at a safe depth.

These grommets can be sought at most electronics outlets ie Maplins and the like.

I hope this is a pkt and not one?
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=29915

If not then cheaper here...

http://www.esr.co.uk/electronics/produc ... rdware.htm


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## adidat (13 Jul 2010)

Just buy a collet extension freom axy


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## RussianRouter (13 Jul 2010)

adidat":1wub45db said:


> Just buy a collet extension freom axy



Think I've made my thoughts clear on that one somewhere else?

Anyway you're behind the times I'm soted. :wink:


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## TEO (15 Jul 2010)

Hey George
Have you already got the router you're gonna use in the table, If not you might consider a Triton as they have an automatic lock on the spindle when the machine is fully raised, works beautifully.
T


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## RussianRouter (15 Jul 2010)

Hi Teo.

Well you buy me the Triton and I'll use it in the table. :wink: 

Using a Ryobi ERT2100,basically the height lock is sorted,the motorised lift is sorted...just gotta sort the collet unlocking/locking.


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## TEO (15 Jul 2010)

Cool, I had a 110v Ryobi for a few years, it worked very well and I gave it a right beasting, looking forward to seeing how you sport it all out.
Cheers,
T


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## RussianRouter (15 Jul 2010)

TEO":14qdc8pk said:


> looking forward to seeing how you sport it all out.
> Cheers,
> T



:lol: :lol: 

Got me fingers in too many pies at the mo,Teo...router table,CNCbuild,Ally furnace build.

My heads buzzing. :shock: :wink:


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## RussianRouter (16 Jul 2010)

Sussed out how to unlock/lock the collet nut from the side of the table... \/ ccasion5: \/ 

All will be reavealed when the plate is got and battened down,I had to plan this around the plate but if I've done my sums right then there's no reason it shouldn't work and its a pearler of an idea.

Mind you though the spanner I got with the router has helped cooking up the idea and as my Ryobi is a 1/4 turn for lock and unlock it'll be a doddle.

Bladdy Marvellous....happy as a pig in sh*t.


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## RussianRouter (18 Jul 2010)

Ok,had a rethink about the spanner used ie rather than use the spanner that came with router I decided to go with a commercial one just in case anyone wanted to copy the idea and apply it to thei own table?not only that the commercial spanner was longer as the router spanner was just about overlapping the edge of the router table back edge.

It is imperative that this was done before the plate was affixed to the table so its a good job I didn't wait to affix the plate as you will gather from the pics to follow..

Going to post the procedure in a series of photographs in a day or two. :wink:


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## RussianRouter (18 Jul 2010)

I couldn't find my perspex circle cutting jig,so I made a quick one up using the guide plate I got with router.

Needed this to start the spanner insert under the table,some pics tofollow these.


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## RussianRouter (18 Jul 2010)

Hope this loads ok?more pics to follow these in a day or two?

1.So I have my table size cut nice a square/equal in all four sides,now I need to locate where the plate will sit within the table.

Figured out where I wanted the plate obviously I wanted it equal on two sides but the back fence distance is down to each individual.

Afte figuring out placement of the plate and making sure its equal to the table,drew round the plate and removed.
Drew a straight line from corner to corner,this will then give me the exact center of where the routers shaft will emerge.





2.Drilled a hole through the center point of where the center is using a small bit,this hole will be the securing pilot hole for the router circle jig pilot pin of the same diameter as the drill bit.









3.Turning the table top over I positioned the spanner so that it was aligned with hole and dead center of the length of the table at the back.





4.I now needed to make a mark for where the routing arc was to be. 
This arc needed to be about just over half way between the hole center and the back edge of the table.

I put a V-Groove bit in the router and set a depth of 2mm(Mainly just for scoring an arc in the table),Using my sooperduper circle cutter affixed to router I placed the router cicle cutter pilot pin in the center hole I drilled earlier,I positioned the V-Groove bit tip so that it alligned with the mark made aligning the spanner.

Tightened up the router screws securing the position on the circle cutter.





5.Proceeded to score an arc with the router,I judged the size of the arc travel because Ididn't fancy the woking out of how far left and right I had to score(Turned outjust fine).


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## RussianRouter (19 Jul 2010)

Following on from previous post.

Now that I had the length and width of the arc I can do some measurements for an oblong piece of perspex with enough material on the edges to secure it down with screws at the finish.

This is one I done earlier. :lol:





Using this as a template positioned for an all round equal fitting around the arc(Sorry but forgot to take a shot at this stage,anyway I then drew round the perspex and routed out the oblong shape at the same depth of the perspex thickness.

Nice routing innit :wink: 





Fitted perspex(pun),didn't want to push it all the way in at this moment otherwise I'd have a job getting it back out as it fitted like a glove(better actually) :lol:






Closup of the fit,not a gap insight. :wink: 





That's all for now.  [/img]


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## RussianRouter (19 Jul 2010)

Last pic for today,gotta cleanup before her indoors gets in...kitchen is in a right mess. :shock: 

Fitted the perspex into the slot,like I said earlier fits like a glove.
Routed that same arc on the outset and at the depth of the perspex thickness.

I have two routers so the one with the circle jig cutter was only used for the arc cutting because I didn't want to disturb the setting,any other routing done with the smaller router.

The perspex fully seated and arc routed out with a 1/4" straight flute bit.





Surely the lightbulbs must be glowing now?


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## Tom K (20 Jul 2010)

Just the eyes to do and the Smiley is complete. 
Is this the arc for your spanner contraption George? Don't you need a straight spanner? Will you be making stops, router has to 
be brought to a set height to align with pin obviously.


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## RussianRouter (20 Jul 2010)

Nearing the completion stage. :wink: 

These are the items now needed...

A ball end screw with a 1/4" diameter same as the perspex arc width cut out ealier.
Two 1/2" diameter washers(yeah I know there's only one,but believe me I need two) 
Two nuts to suit thread on bolt.





Putting an 1/2" straight flute in the circle cutter router,I then routed an arc at a depth of one of the washers which was 2mm :shock: 





Fitted washer...fitted perfect...more precision routing. :wink: 





The next step is route a ball rebate within the 1/2" 2mm rebate.

Maybe later?stay tuned. :wink:


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## RussianRouter (20 Jul 2010)

Tom K":2jfp3626 said:


> Just the eyes to do and the Smiley is complete.
> Is this the arc for your spanner contraption George? Don't you need a straight spanner? Will you be making stops, router has to
> be brought to a set height to align with pin obviously.



 

All in good time my dear man. :wink:


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## RussianRouter (20 Jul 2010)

Fitted the round ball bit and set it to the depth of the bolts head. 
Routed the ball rebate. 





Following pics are self explanatory.... 









All that remains now is to dill 3 or 4 holes in the spanner shaft and file out the 
rough steel so that I have a slot,its impotant that we have a slot so that the spanner can be withdrawn fom the collet nut and secured via a pin at the edge of the table...I'll maybe put an audible warning beep as soon as I have the plate for fitting.
I'll attempt to drill the spanner later on :shock: thats going to be fun.


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## RussianRouter (20 Jul 2010)

Hi Tom

I don't think you need a straight headed spanner as I've just done a mock trial and it works fine.

When I build the carcass(cabinet) the spanner will protrude out the back and the 2b2 frame will have a rebate opening so the the spanner will sit on this rebate and at the same time act as a travel stop.


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## RussianRouter (20 Jul 2010)

This is not finished yet as I need to have router in place to how it working with a possible vid clip?

I'll then move onto the router shaft locking pin close by to the spannerand also the height locking lever.


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