# My Workshop/Garage Build



## neil-the-sticker-guy (27 Apr 2008)

Hi people.

I joined the site a month ago or so and thought i would let you guys see the build of my workshop/garage.

i'm right at the begining of my build so i haven't got much to show yet. i'm hoping it wont take an eternity to erect and done within a few months, but i do have a tendency to become a bit lazy at times. :lol:

i spent a couple of days clearing the land and now i'm waiting for the digger which is arriving next saturday. due to the costs of getting rid of the unwanted soil i will be building raised beds using railway sleepers (2 high) and putting the soil into them. i plan to do this next thursday and friday with help from my friend.







the plot of land is located at the bottom of my garden and the workshop will be accessed from the exsisting garage i already have. i plan to knock the back wall out of my garage so as a car can be driven in to it. the picture shows the 3 garages to the left and i own the furthest one with the sheet of wood over the door opening

the plot is 7m wide and i'm not decided as to how far up my garden i plan to have it. im thinking roughly 10m but may make it larger. 

the main structure is going to be 4x2 timbers with a feather edge board to the exterior and insulated in the void with a foam insulation. i will have a moisture barrier underneath the feather edge and cladded on the inside with plywood. i may plasterboard and plaster it but that all depends on cost at the end of the build as to wether i do.

i plan to have a pitched roof but am still deciding what roof covering to use. im open to suggestions!! 

i have a few issues which i could do with some advice on.

im unsure of who owns the wall at the bottom. i phoned the land registry and they wasnt helpfull at all. in a round about way they said to build it and wait for the complaints and risk taking it all down again. which im not happy with. i will probably go and chat with the neighbour and see what he has to say.

im also a bit worried wether i have to reinforce the exterior wall once the back of the exsisting garage has been removed. it has piers to the wall and also timbers tieing into the opposite wall of the garage.






also on the right hand side of the first picture there is a concrete slab that runs lower than the ffl of the garage. i will be concreting over this but i dont know whether to break this up or leave this how it is. 

anyway, thankyou for taking the time to read and wait to hear your replys. hope to get some more pics up soon.

Neil


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (27 Apr 2008)

im taking it that i have a restriction on my account for posting pictures until ive posted an amount of posts.


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## PowerTool (27 Apr 2008)

Think the spam filter only stops you posting until after you've made three posts - so I can see your pictures just fine  
Nice sized plot - as for the back wall,I think it's best if you have a chat with the neighbour anyway;not only about the wall,but also about your planned build.People tend to be more forgiving if they are aware of such things beforehand,and being on good terms with your neighbours is never a bad thing  

Andrew


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (27 Apr 2008)

yeah ur right, probably best if i have a word. i am going to to be putting a 4m high object in front of his porch so i best let him know. :lol: 

im pretty sure im going to have problems with neighbours so id like to stay on there side as much as i can.


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## plug (28 Apr 2008)

Hi Neil god to see you have made a start on the garage, hope Rachel is giving you plenty of help. 
Looking at the back wall I think it may be yours as the support pillars are on your side and it looks like a building was on the concrete slab, I would check with your neighbor, maybe take it down and replace it with the back wall of your new garage. Check the thickness of the existing slab, but I would break it up and relay a complete new one so you can make sure it is fully damp proof and insulated. 
If you want some more advice me and Becka could always pop over one evening.


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## ike (28 Apr 2008)

> the main structure is going to be 4x2 timbers with a feather edge board to the exterior



Unless the building is entirely of non-combustible material, including the roof structure, I think you musn't build closer than 1metre from the boundary. That would be to the extent of the eave/gutterline, not the wall cladding. I'm sure this is a common requirement across most local authority planning regs.

Oh, that is unless you design it so it qualifies as a sectional building, e.g from flatpack. Hence your neighbours shed being OK right up to the wall. Some forum members have designed and build some very, ahem, high spec 'sheds' this way. 

As long as it can be deconstructed into panels...if the need ever arose. :wink: 

cheers,

ike


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (28 Apr 2008)

hey paul. yeah you guys are welcome to come round. 
any help is always appreciated. probably going to need lots of advice on the roof as i wouldnt know where to start to be honest!!

yeah i was prepared to break it up i suppose. probably the best thing to do. 

yeah uve got me thinking about the 1m boundry thing. not really sure about that. when i phoned the planning office they didnt mention it at all. the girl wasnt helpfull at all. 

any advice on this project from anyone would be help, im by no means experienced in building a shed!! :lol:


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## Shadowfax (28 Apr 2008)

Hi Neil
Re the distance you can build from the boundary. It is nothing to do with planning regulations but everything to do with building regulations. Ring Building Control.
Basically they should tell you that if the building you propose is substantially non-combustible, then you can build up to the boundary. If not you will have to build it at least a metre away.
Ring Building Control to check anyway.
Good luck with the build.
Cheers.

SF


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (28 Apr 2008)

so what your saying is that if i build it out of timber i will have to build it a metre away? just to confirm. 

that would really mess my whole plan up and ruin the whole project. the idea is that i will be able to drive my car into it.

grrrrr. i hate regulations.


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## ike (29 Apr 2008)

> so what your saying is that if i build it out of timber i will have to build it a metre away



That is what you need to ask the council. In my experience, you get more help face to face with someone in the office. :wink: They usually have a simplified planning guide booklet which covers common FAQ's in this area.

What I wouldn't recommend is to fire on without being absolutely sure of what you are allowed to do. The lasting peace of mind is worth the upfront effort. :wink: It won't cost you a penny to ask, but it could cost you dear otherwise!

cheers,

ike


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (1 May 2008)

well after ur advice i contacted building control and they told me i wasnt allowed to build the boundry wall out of timber. was told i could build it out of blocks tho so its all good. 

got my girlfriends step-dad coming to price up for building the single wall and also a price for the whole garage to be out of blocks. thinking about it i would rather it be out of blocks so depending on price i think im going to go for that way.

also id probably have an rsj put in aswell and have a sliding lifting winch put in so if ever i need to lift and move heavy things it would make this very easy!!

lastest update. ive installed alot of the railway sleepers in the garden. these are used to make raised beds to get rid of alot of the earth that is dug out for the base of the garage, these will be finished tommorow and the digger also arrives tommorow afternoon too. so i can crack straight on with digging out. once its dug out i can knock the rear wall down and also take the back out the garage. the bricks will form most of the hardcore for the base. once thats all down im on to the concreating.very nervous about this as im doing it in once piece!! the slab size will be 11m x 7m as i want a 1m hardstanding in front of the garage.

will keep u posted with some pics and more info!!


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## Shadowfax (1 May 2008)

There you go, mate. A good result - and peace of mind as well.
Nice one.

SF


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## Shultzy (1 May 2008)

Don't know how thick your concrete slab will be, but I would put reinforcing steel in it.


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (2 May 2008)

never had to find about the price of a block work building. what sort of money do you guys reckon im looking at for a 7m x 10m and 8ft high for the labour and materials for the block work?

the slab is going to be 150 thick. yeah i planned on doing that. was quite surprised about how many people said to not bother. to be honest its about £15 a sheet from tp so its silly if i dont.


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## Benchwayze (2 May 2008)

Hi Neil, 
here are some of your options... Aerated Blocks, Breeze Blocks, Screen Blocks, Fibo Blocks.

I can't say which are more suitable, but I should get Yellow Pages if I were you and ring around Builders' Merchants. They'll tell you what's suitable and you'll also have some idea on the best buy! 

Don't forget to stay within the permitted percentage area of your whole garden and you'll be fine.

Looking forward to watching progress.
Just thought! When you speak to your neighbours, go bearing gifts. A nice bottle of wine sometimes works wonders! Some of them even like coffee tables! 

Good Luck 
John 
ccasion5:


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (2 May 2008)

hahaha. i did think about the gift idea. :lol: dont know why but im a little nervous. probably heading for an arguement!! 

once ive had her step-dad round im going to get ringing about for prices.

the annoying thing is she works for brett, which supply alot of the builders merchants. trouble is she can only make one order a year and its very limited as to how much she can order. really need the blocks as soon as but she needs to wait till other people she knows have decided what they want.


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (30 Sep 2008)

just looked at the date of my last post!! was it really that long ago.

well things have moved on a little since then!!

they ground has been dug out and the bottom wall knocked out.
all the hardcore has been spread and about 4 ton of sand over the top of that!! ive dug a trench all the way round to support the walls and make things a bit more substantial.

the garage is hopefully going to progress very quickly now as i have got a couple of guys in to sort the concreting and wall building out.

i would love to do this myself but dont have the confidence to do it. 

so plan is as follows. 

1st weekend is filling the trenches with concrete and taking the blocks up to floor level.

2nd weekend will be filling the whole base with concrete for the finished floor and starting on the block work on the sunday.

3rd weekend more block work. 

4th weekend block work completed (hopefully)

il get some pictures up with some progress. to give you guys an idea of how its turning out.


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## MikeG. (30 Sep 2008)

Neil,

I read your first post and panicked! I started a "stop, stop!!" type of posting.......then thought I had better read some of the other posts. Thank goodness I did, and thank goodness you listened do a bit of advice!!

Actually, you *can* have a timber structure up to the boundary, so long as the cladding is suitable fire-resistant. Eternit to a cementitious board that looks like wooden feather-edge board which is suitable for these circumstances.

But the thing that really had me panicking was the idea of a layer of plastic under the feather-edge boards, and outside your insulation!!! No, no, no!! That always goes on the inside of the wall, on the warm side of the insulation.....otherwise you will end up with mould, rot and god knows what going on within your framework. (I love the way some builders will tell you that plastic sweats.....when of course it does nothing of the sort).

I will be interested to see what sort of roof you propose, because the slope of the garages isn't really helping you.

Anyway, good luck with this, and don't get lazy! This shouldn't take too long!! I look forward to seeing the photos.

Mike


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (30 Sep 2008)

:lol: 

yeah im not really sure exactly how the roof is going to turn out but i have a little idea of how it will go.

im going for just a normal pitched roof. the new garage roof shouldnt interfere really with the old one as the 2 walls will be spaced away from each other. the only place it will is where the 2 garages connect. but ive got an idea in my head roughly how im going to do this. 

i thought maybe some supporting timbers running from one wall to the other across the new garage opening then sheet timber then lead layed on top of this to take away the water (at a slight gradient towards the gutter of course). its hard to explain when i dont really know the terms to use.


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## MikeG. (30 Sep 2008)

Thats a leaded box gutter you are describing. It takes a little bit of skill, and a little bit of thinking about to get them right.

How long will that section of roof be, roughly?

Mike


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (30 Sep 2008)

yeah thats sounds to me like the right term i was looking for :lol:
the opening is going to be around 400 - 500mm. that would be ok wouldnt it?

im a total novice when it comes to this. the only thing im going by is that im not going to leave any place for water to settle or get in to any joints.


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## MikeG. (30 Sep 2008)

Too wide really....because you are going to have to pay for the lead. You'll need Code 5 lead sheet, and that will be pricey.

No, I was really after the length of the flat bit.....not the width. The width should be around 250mm or so....enough to walk on comfortably for maintainence, but not so wide as to require a mortgage for the lead (and remember you will need sides to this gutter that are at least 150 high, so if the bottom is 250, and the 2 sides are 150 each, you already need a sheet of lead a min of 550 wide.).

The length matters, because anything over about 1800 long and you will need steps. For a novice lead-worker, this could be a bit awkward (but not impossible......easier if I was standing on the roof next to you telling you what to do!).

Back to first principles, though........is your workshop going to be attached to the garage as you first proposed? If not, then I would avoid having a roof connecting the two buildings.

Mike


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (1 Oct 2008)

yeah i never really thought about the cost of the lead. dohhh :lol: 

well the distance will be over 2 metres probably.

would it be an option to make it out of aluminium as i could have something fabricated at work?

why would i need steps over that distance?


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## MikeG. (1 Oct 2008)

Yes, aluminuim will be great.

No steps will be needed if you can make the whole thing in one piece. You need steps with lead because of a maximum size in any one sheet to allow for expansion and contraction, but I have worked with aluminium box gutters 40 metres long. 

Keep it reasonably narrow, though, if you can (300 or 400 if poss).......and be very careful that you don't have other metals in the area (copper, steel etc can set off chemical changes in the aluminium leading to corrosion).

We'll have a look at the roof details when you get a bit closer to that stage.....and a few photos will help.

Mike


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## Rich (1 Oct 2008)

C'mon Neil, how about some pics?  

Regards,

Rich.


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## maltrout512 (1 Oct 2008)

Neil, I have some (quite a few) of an oak framed double garage and workshop for a customer of mine. The area is just over 11m by 5.5hm. The footings where partly dug out and the rest had to be made up rubble, because it was being put on a slope. (you don't have that problem) The footings if I can remember started at the edge 460mm deep for about 400mm then shallowed to a depth of about 100mm. Wire mesh suspended 50mm above the rubble base. Then the concrete. All 16 cu metres. This was done in one section, but the wire mesh was used 10mm dia. This build didn't require planning, ie hight under 4hm and under I think they spec 1/4 may be 1/3 of the area of your garden. As my customers garden is four acres well make your own mind up, but when inquired with the council planning had to be obtained. If you want to see some pics I could zip and e-mail if you require some idea.

Anyway all the best and like some others have said, keep the locals happy and let them know just enough but not all they think they need to know.


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## MikeG. (1 Oct 2008)

Malcolm,

11m x 5.5m???? And he didn't think it needed Planning Permission??!!! There are houses about that size!!! 

Too many people think they know the rules.......Ask an architect or Planning Consultant, because there is no quick guide to whether something needs permission or not. That section in my little reference book occupies 4 dense pages........they can, and do, require buildings to be demolished if you get this wrong.

Incidentally, whilst I try and help on these matters where I can on this and the other forum, the complications are such that I have to be extremely careful with the "do I need P.P?" question. It is so easy to overlook one or other important factor when you haven't done a site visit.

Mike


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## CWatters (2 Oct 2008)

Mike Garnham":so9pi6ys said:


> But the thing that really had me panicking was the idea of a layer of plastic under the feather-edge boards, and outside your insulation!!! No, no, no!! That always goes on the inside of the wall, on the warm side of the insulation.....otherwise you will end up with mould, rot and god knows what going on within your framework. (I love the way some builders will tell you that plastic sweats.....when of course it does nothing of the sort).



On my timber frame outbuilding I'm planning to use breathable roofing membrane behind the weatherboard. On the inside will use left over plastic DPM from the concrete base.


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## MikeG. (2 Oct 2008)

Colin,

yes thats the idea (although there are specialist timber-frame membranes available in place of using the roofing membrane).

As a rough rule of thumb, the material on the inside of the wall should be 5 times as vapour resistant as the material on the outside.

With an unheated outbuilding, there is a good argument for not having a vapour barrier at all.

Mike


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## maltrout512 (2 Oct 2008)

Mike, I take your point, and as you say a site visit helps to determine more into yes or no about PP. I didn't intend to give any false ideas or facts on this post. Sorry again Mike.


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (5 Oct 2008)

cool. il make it out of aluminium then.
well the distance from the 2 walls is 550mm so it will probably work out about 450 - 500mm. wont really know till were up to that level and doing the roof. 

heres a couple of pics from the weekends events.

it didnt go aswell as id of hoped. we only managed to get about 3 quarters of the footings filled due to under ordering of concrete. its a bit of a shame but were now going to concrete the floor and fill in that last part of the footing next saturday. then once the blockwork on the last part of the footing is done we will complete the floor. there will be a join about 3 quarters across the floor but thats not really a big issue for me.

we also had an issue with the angle of the blockwork that will be going across the back wall. to have the back wall to line up with the existing garage and be square to it, it would of meant putting the blockwork over my boundry on to the neighbours so i had to make the desision of having the back wall at an off square angle to the existing garage. its not the worst thing that can happen but it just makes things a bit awkward. 

i apologise for the poor pictures but you get the idea


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## MikeG. (5 Oct 2008)

You really are using every inch of the available space, aren't you?!

I can see the roof issue clearly now, and it shouldn't be a problem. Are you planning a mono-pitch or duo-pitch roof?

The only concern I have is access down the sides of the building. Have you got room to get a scaffold up to construct the roof, and when it is all finished, will you be able to maintain the outside and the fence? These odd nooks and crannies (as you are creating here) are sometimes known as Lappland.........derived from "land left after planning"....and before they become rubbish and weed infested hell-holes, you should think about the hard landscaping to use in these areas. If you concrete them over, leave a slope to allow water to run off (onto your property, of course, not the neighbours!).

Mike


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (5 Oct 2008)

hahaha. i hate to waste it!! :lol: there is a little space but not really any to build the roof off. i know it will make it difficult but thats just something il have to get over. il have to build as much as i can from the inside and struggle with the rest.

i think i understand what u mean by mono and duo. it will be a mono pithced roof. as im going to be using the area in the roof space for storage and also maybe a usable space for an office if i can. but i plan to build an office on the ground floor but the roof space office would be be a bonus.

glad you can see the issue i have with the gutter. was slightly worried about it. uve eased my mind slightly by reassuring me its not out the question to do it this way.

i plan to fill around the edges with concrete so as to create a smooth area around and also yeah it will get rid of the weeds and stop them growing. cheers for the advice of making it slope away from my garage. i honestly didnt think of that. :lol:


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## MikeG. (5 Oct 2008)

neil-the-sticker-guy":gawinq84 said:


> i think i understand what u mean by mono and duo. it will be a mono pithced roof. as im going to be using the area in the roof space for storage and also maybe a usable space for an office if i can. but i plan to build an office on the ground floor but the roof space office would be be a bonus.



Neil,

how about posting a quick sketch of what you are proposing?

Mike


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (7 Oct 2008)

heres a very basic picture of the view i will see from my garden. 
im going to cover over the glass sliding doors with frost vinyl (so as still to let light in but block peoples view.)

the drawing is quite near to scale. so there wont be much block work to do on that side!! :lol: 

this is the type of roof i was going for. im not sure of the degree of the pitch as yet but il get it all drawn up in autocad to get some proper dimensions.


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## MikeG. (7 Oct 2008)

Thanks for that Neil......

Thats a duo-pitch roof, by the way. Are you planning on using trusses, doing a site-cut roof, or perhaps using purlins and some sort of sheet roofing? If the latter two I can help with your timber sizes if you want.

This roof will need a continuous plate along the 2 long edges, unless it is a purlin-roof with lightweight sheets. Therefore, you will need to span across the masonry with some steel or big lumps of timber where the garage section at the back is......make sure you leave a pier in the blockwork to pick this up.

One final thing to watch.......your roof and gutters should not overhang your boundary. That can cause all sorts of hassle, including legal problems....and you should think about access to clear out the gutters.

Neil, looking back over the old posts I see that there has been a reasonable amount of discussion about Building Regs, but nothing at all regarding Planning Pemission for this building. Do you have permission, or have you had confirmation from the council that you don't need it? Because this looks to me like it might require it.

Don't take a risk, because they can make you take it back down again.

Mike


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## Cowboy _Builder (8 Oct 2008)

Are they breeze block that you've used for the footings ,not recommended for use below ground (DPC) as they will be affected by freeze and thaw and could crumble in time ,much better to use Concrete Blocks, i would change them now to save problems later ....Allan (Cowboy Builder)


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (9 Oct 2008)

oh i got that one wrong about the roof. lol

to be honest im not sure how the roof is going to be constructed. you will have to ask "plug" on this site. he's sorting that issue out. all im going to do is help him do it.

i should be ok with the gutters and such as im not right up to the boundry on that side. im pretty friendly with the 2 neighbours that might be affected by the garage so hopefully i wont have any issues there.

with the question about building control and the planning office. ive phoned them so many times its unbelievable. making sure im not breaking any rules. ive asked them a few times wether i need planning permission and they have told me i dont. i must admit i thought i would too but i was pleasently surprised. 

with reguard to the blocks ive used. they are dense concrete blocks. and dont i know it. there heavy as hell!!! lol :lol: 

cheers for all the intrest, its great that people are liking what im doing. i hope. :lol: 

well were all set to finish the base at the weekend. all the sand is down and the vapour barrier and sheets of mesh arrive tommorow. nice early morning on saturday for me!!

will keep you guys posted!!


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## CWatters (13 Oct 2008)

The rules on what yo can build without PP changed on the 1st Oct. 

Check list here..

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/englan ... 62582.html

eg for an outbuilding see..

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/englan ... 33153.html



> Under new regulations that came into effect on 1 October 2008 outbuildings are considered to be permitted development, not needing planning permission, subject to the following limits and conditions:
> 
> No outbuilding forward of the principal elevation fronting a highway.
> 
> ...



Note that a highway includes a footpath or similar public land in this context.


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (21 Oct 2008)

heres a few update pictures for you people to have a look at.

this was done a couple of weekends ago. 
took half a day to do and lots of barrowing. there were six of us in total. 2 tamping and 4 on the wheel barrows.

it took 9 and a half metres of concrete to fill. i filled down the edges of the slab area, to keep down the weeds and also to give a flat surface if i ever have to squeeze down there.











the slab had reinforcing mesh put into it and it worked out roughly 150 - 180mm thick. 

on saturday we started on the actual build. and you dont know how good it is to actually see it coming out the ground. its been a long time coming.






















thats paul in the pics (plug - ukworkshop.co.uk). he's the one doing the blockwork for me. the pictures were taken on the sunday and it is up to 4 courses high all round now. 

im hoping we will get a better start next week and will get maybe 5 courses up. i might have a little go myself putting a few down.

if all goes well were hoping to have it water tight within a month (just weekends)


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## PowerTool (21 Oct 2008)

Looking good - nice to see it making real progress  

Hope the weather stays okay for you [-o< 

Andrew


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## MikeG. (21 Oct 2008)

Hi Neil....nice to see this progress!

I don't mean to spoil the mood, but shouldn't there be a pier on the far wall, near the van, in the line of the long wall that runs down the back of the existing garages?

I'm sure your roof is going to have to span this gap, and at the moment I can't see what it is going to sit on!

Mike


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (21 Oct 2008)

yeah a pier has been built in on the back wall. also a pier will be built at the front in between the door and window. and concrete lintels are going above the door and window and also a steel lintel is going across the opening from the existing garage.


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## MikeG. (21 Oct 2008)

.........yeah, but where is it? In your second-from-last photo it should be in the wall near the van, just to the left of the letter "H" in Haden...

Mike


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (21 Oct 2008)

oh i see. well its roughly in line with the wheelie bin in the pic. about centre of the wall. is that wrong?


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## MikeG. (21 Oct 2008)

Well, I reckon you need one in line with the wall that the guy is working on in that second last picture, because I reckon you will need a steel to span across the gap to pick up the roof. That would put it between the H of Haden and the edge of the front door of the van, I reckon.......

.........just ask your chap what the roof is going to sit on. He surely must have something in mind!

I reckon this is your problem:






Excuse the rubbish sketch.....I'm tired.

Mike


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## joiner_sim (21 Oct 2008)

Looking good.


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (21 Oct 2008)

i see what ur saying now. we was going to put a steel in there. trouble is i didnt want to have one so close to the opening as it will make the gap smaller to get vehicles into the garage.

he's probably reading this. we'll have a chat about it on saturday when he comes.

would it be an issue for the steel to sit on one thickness of wall?


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## plug (22 Oct 2008)

Hi Neil I have got a few ideas about the steel I wil talk to you at the weekend about them.


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (18 Nov 2008)

havent posted for a while but heres a few more pics to wet ur appetite!! :lol: 































hopefully all will be water tight by the end of the weekend. having the box gutter made this week and a bit more timber to finish it off.


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## DeanN (18 Nov 2008)

Fantastic looking swimming pool. Have you considered draining it and converting to a workshop :lol: :lol: 

Looking good. Soon be wheeling-in the toys.


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## MikeG. (18 Nov 2008)

Look at all that space!

I reckon you'll do well to be watertight by the weekend...........but that's good progress anyway. I notice you're not showing me where that steel is or isn't!!!

Well done.

Mike


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## neil-the-sticker-guy (19 Nov 2008)

haha. yeah i thought about the garage idea!!

all the steels are in place but i havent had chance to take pictures of the up to date progress. 

i had a steel bracket manufactured at work which i will anchor into the wall and also bolt the steel to, for the issue of having no pier. i really didnt want to build a pier there as it would restrict the room i have to get a vehicle in. il take a couple of pics at the weekend in the light to show you what i mean.

so far the joists and noggins are all in place and all of the rafters have been cut. just got to bolt them all into position and fix the batten and breathable membrane down and bobs ur mothers brother.


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