# Aaaaargh...New scrollsaw arrived today...HELP?



## skronk (3 Aug 2011)

Trying to cut straight line. Not long, maybe 1 inch, at right angles to edge. I alway gae a cut that goes from right (start of cut) to left at bottom. Saw is Jet J16ss with supplied blade.

Tried tension and lining up blade to no avail............alcohol now required !

Please help before I top myself ? #-o


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## Ugs (3 Aug 2011)

skronk":2fmqc7cn said:


> Trying to cut straight line. Not long, maybe 1 inch, at right angles to edge. I alway gae a cut that goes from right (start of cut) to left at bottom. Saw is Jet J16ss with supplied blade.
> 
> Tried tension and lining up blade to no avail............alcohol now required !
> 
> Please help before I top myself ? #-o



Most blades give this result because of the way they are made.

Practice takes care of it. Draw a longer pencil line on the wood then try cutting to that. Instead of looking at the blade keep your eyes on a point on the pencil line a few millimetres ahead and gently feed into the blade. You will find that you feed the wood at an angle but, after a bit of practice, you *will* be able to follow a straight line.

I think we all had this problem when starting - keep going 

EDIT: I have also heard that filing the burr on the blade side also helps but I have never tried that as I quickly got efficient at cutting a straight line.


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## Blister (3 Aug 2011)

Decent blades help lots :mrgreen: 

http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm


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## skronk (3 Aug 2011)

Blister":nli5qs4e said:


> Decent blades help lots :mrgreen:
> 
> http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm


Right lads,

Hopefully this will not develop into the "make the newbie feel a fud" post ?

Can anyone elaborate on the answer about decent blades please ?

At this point decent blades might as well be Gillette !


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## Ugs (3 Aug 2011)

This link explains better then I can:-

http://www.scrollsaws.com/General/Cuttips.htm


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## Blister (3 Aug 2011)

Most blades that are supplied with a tool are low quality / Cheap 

This applies to table saws / band saws / Jig saws etc

If you buy the best quality available it normally transforms the machine into something special :mrgreen:


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## skronk (3 Aug 2011)

So,

Reading Mikesworkshop post, I have to buy quality blades from America ?

Is there no UK stockist ? Or No other "quality" blades ?

Seems like hard work. Think I'll just return it. Not worth the hassle.

I can buy table saw, jigsaw, reciprocating blades here of quality. Who not scrollsaw blades ?

Phhhhh!


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## stevebuk (3 Aug 2011)

skronk":1be51q0s said:


> So,
> 
> Reading Mikesworkshop post, I have to buy quality blades from America ?
> 
> ...




i agree, send it back, you obviously dont have the patience for it..


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## Mike Wingate (3 Aug 2011)

Buysome from http://www.hegner.co.uk/scrollsaws-fret ... aw-blades/
I have had a Hegner for 30 years or so, brilliant machine.


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## Ugs (3 Aug 2011)

skronk":2dh7pwf6 said:


> So,
> 
> Reading Mikesworkshop post, I have to buy quality blades from America ?
> 
> ...



I have always bought the yellow label ones from here:-

http://www.alwayshobbies.com/Tools-$4-M ... Blades.ice


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## Gill (4 Aug 2011)

So angry. You won't cut anything worth having if you're tense. It's important to understand that scrolling is not like other forms of woodwork which can be equated to engineering. Just imagine you are trying to learn how to ride a horse. So much depends on the nature of the animal and the relationship you establish with it. Scroll saws are like that because there are so many variables involved. Be patient and learn how to make your saw work for you.

You've had some good advice here, particularly with regard to buying decent quality blades. No, you don't have to buy your blades from America but many UK scrollers do because they like the service that Mike Moorlach provides and because they like the aggressive nature of Flying Dutchman blades. Others prefer different brands, many of which are high quality and can be purchased in the UK. Experiment; see which blades you prefer.

The basics of scrolling can be taught in a matter of moments but they take much longer to master. In a matter of hours (even minutes) a novice can produce articles which are very presentable but much depends on the personality of that novice and how receptive they are to the feedback that the saw gives them. Persevere and you will soon recognise the truth of this.

Oh, and scroll saws are at their best when they cut curves, not straight lines. Try a few.


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## Blister (4 Aug 2011)

skronk":ion9kdun said:


> So,
> 
> Reading Mikesworkshop post, I have to buy quality blades from America ?
> 
> ...




Sorry I hassled you with advice and a reply to your question , I wont again


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## Mouse (4 Aug 2011)

skronk":16uvavgs said:


> Seems like hard work.



Whats hard about filling in a short form online, then waiting 5-7 days for the blades to drop through your letterbox.


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## hawkinob (4 Aug 2011)

Hi skronk,
"Seems like hard work. Think I'll just return it. Not worth the hassle."

I think you are right, send it back and get a cnc machine, or an axe. Might suit your temperament.

Regards,
Bob H.


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## Mike Wingate (4 Aug 2011)

I am a Tech teacher and have experienced a number of scroll saws in schools and in my dept. Why we never bought Hegners 25 years ago (the price probably) but have always bought Delta's, nice but the clamps flew off, then models changed and parts were not available. Dremel, not enough power, Jet/Axminster poor quality and material, tensin screw snaps, blade adjustment poor and we use pinned blades which are not as good quality as some German and American unpinned ones. My Hegner was at one time my most expensive purchase. I have installed variable speed, upgraded the blade holding system a few times now having their own QR system with a lever fitted by myself. This is one tool that I would not hesitate to reccomend. It does not replace the bandsaw. But with the correct blades will cut a variety of timbers, plastic, metal ( i have cut 6mm steel for triggers) shell and compsites. It is great for making routing templates in Bakelite or toughened acrylic (polycarbonate which the laser will turn into pupil killing gas). Good tools make the job a lot easier.


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## chrispuzzle (16 Aug 2011)

skronk":2ome3xw8 said:


> So,
> Reading Mikesworkshop post, I have to buy quality blades from America ?



Mike is really easy to deal with, and doesn't gouge on the postage. It's no great difference from buying in the UK.

Olson make high quality blades and have been increasing their distribution in the UK. You can buy from http://www.woodworkscraftsupplies.co.uk/index.php?cPath=103 online.

Cutting a straight line is a knack. With a new blade and a crucial straight line to cut, I always try on a scrap piece of wood first to get the angle right. Basically, you feed the wood in at an angle to the left, maybe 5 degrees, maybe 15 degrees, to compensate for the bias in the blade.

Curves (but not perfect circles) are easier, so patterns with flowing curves are easier to cut - often it doesn't matter if you are slightly off the line with a curve.

John Nelson's Scroll Saw Workbook (£6.14 from Amazon) has good exercises for developing straight line and other skills. I am sure it is not the only one, but it was my first book and I still refer to it from time to time.


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## jim_mex (19 Aug 2011)

Hi Skronk -

For blades check out my recent reply best-scroll-saw-blades-available-in-uk-t52716.html

I second the comments about blade quality. Buy good blades and you will be amazed at the difference. If you buy Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse or Polar blades (for harder wood) and purchase in gross amounts you will get exceptionally good value for money. Buying blades from hobby shops or local DIY centers is terribly expensive. 

I suggest you contact Mike at the link in my previos post, tell him what type of scrolling you have in mind and let him suggest an assortment of blades to try. To begin with steer away from spiral blades as these are gnerally much harder to control when starting out.

As to cuuting the straight line. As has been suggested you need to feed at an angle, sometimes as much as 20 degrees dependent of the size and type of blade. Make sure you have the correct tension - the blade should deflect about 1/8" side to side when you apply sidewards pressure with your finger - finer blades can deflect a little less. Try cutting at a 1/3 rd of your speed range and don't force the wood into the blade. Just gently feed it and let the blade do the work adjust the direction by slight movement to the outside of your wood as you feed. 

Final tip - when you start out try not to cut from very small pieces of wood as these generally take more control to accurately follow a pattern line. If you do have tyo cut very small pieces it helps to temporarily glue them with double sided sticky tape to a larger piece of 1/8" MDF or plywood which makes manipulating the small piece a lot easier

Hang in there - Rome wasn't built in a day but the Romans did get the knack of building straight roads!!!


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