# My first attempt at wood working - Jewellery Box (WIP)



## cmwatt (14 Oct 2011)

Hi folks,

This is my first real attempt at wood working since school days (I'm 25 now), I always enjoyed it at school but never really pursued it as a hobby until now. I thought I'd start off with something small in case I make a mess of it, so it wont be at too much expense! I bought some Elm a couple of months back from a local supplier of hardwood and started working on it a couple of weeks ago now. I've just been doing an hour here and there when I can, with my limited tool selection and have been learning a lot and made a few small mistakes but nothing irrecoverable I think.  Here's progress so far:




_MG_5412 by Craig Watt, on Flickr

Nothing it glued together yet, so I can replace bits if needs be. You can probably notice the top has slightly warped since cutting it. I took the wood into the house for about a week before working with it, should I have left it longer? Is there any way to sort it now, or will I just need to cut a new top? :-k 




_MG_5419 by Craig Watt, on Flickr

My bandsaw isn't big enought to cut the box after assembly so I had to cut each side individually. That was a nerve racking moment! :shock: Thankfully they all even out pretty level with each other!




_MG_5420 by Craig Watt, on Flickr

This just shows how the bottom is slotted into the sides. Should I glue this in, or just leave it dry fitted to allow for movement?




_MG_5418 by Craig Watt, on Flickr

A detail photo of some of my first go's at doing dovetails in hardwood! Some have minor gaps, which I plan to fill with either sawdust or tiny slithers of elm.




_MG_5417 by Craig Watt, on Flickr

Finally this was a mistake I made when routing the rebate for the top to sit into! Always make sure your work is firmly clamped down! #-o  Think I need to invest in more clamps/different types!

Anyway, still lots to do yet. Need to fit the Neat hinges I got from Ian and a nice wee mortice lock! Might be tricky as I don't have a router table or drill press yet, but I hope to get either/both soon. I also plan to do a small inlay on the top to a daisy design which I am using from a photo. I got some sections of veneer which I intend to use for that. Then I plan to make an internal tray and that sits on ledges all the way around and line it with velvet or something. That's about it for now. If anyone's got suggestions/recommendations, I'd be glad to hear them!


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## Blister (14 Oct 2011)

I think its rather smart :mrgreen: 

If thats your first go its very good , keep it up and thanks for showing us :wink:


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## cmwatt (14 Oct 2011)

Thanks Blister, still lots of potential to mess it up yet! hehe It's a big learning curve, doing hand cut dovetails that actually fit, using a router for the first time etc!


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## andersonec (14 Oct 2011)

Craig, It beats my first attempt hands down.

Ref. gluing the base, it seems it is not ply and in that case I would just apply some glue to the central part of each end, this would allow expansion outwards but stop it from moving from side to side.

I would also treat it as a practice piece ( i know elm is expensive) and doubt if the lid is recoverable, carry on with your trays etc, finish it (oil etc) and line it with something cheap, I would save your nice hinges, or even fit them as practice but don't damage them, and do another and keep this one in front of your work for reference and do the next one much slower and check, check, check before you make a cut.

I only started a year or so ago and my mistakes are just starting to slow down, keep going.

This is my latest attempt, just got to fit the hinges and catch on the front


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## joiner_sim (14 Oct 2011)

You sure it's your first attempt? Those dovetails are pretty good!


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## RogerP (14 Oct 2011)

For a first (or even a second or third) I think that's jolly good! I'd say just carry on to completion and by the time you given it a final plane/sand it'll look a lot better. anyway. You may be able to "lose" that router slip with a bit of crafty inlay all round the edge. Excellent - let's see more WIP pictures.


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## barkwindjammer (14 Oct 2011)

Excellent work there Craig, thats well tidy !


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## cmwatt (14 Oct 2011)

Thanks for the kind words guys!  

That's a good idea RogerP, might do that. We shall see.  

Thanks for the suggestions andersonec. I intentionally bought enough elm to do two boxes (cost me £28 I think plus £12 for the seller to thickness it for me - now I have my own P/T though). So I might have a go and start making a second and if that turns out better, I could use the better hinges etc on that. Either that or finish this one using the better hinges, then take them off and use them on a 2nd version later on and put cheaper ones on the first. Still to decide. :-k The jewellery box is for my fiancée, who currently is in South Africa but is coming over in December, so that is the deadline! As RogerP says, maybe it'll look better after a good sanding and the gaps are filled in.


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## cmwatt (14 Oct 2011)

Meant to say, your box looks great andersonec! How are you finishing the box?


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## Peter Sefton (14 Oct 2011)

The box looks very good, Ian hinges are great as well

Cheers Peter


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## Ian (15 Oct 2011)

Wow Craig your pulling my leg first box - if this is your first box you and Andy (seeing his latest box) are set to be masters in no time.

Well done, and remember mistakes will always be made - its how we learn and the next box gets closer to perfection.

Cheers

Ian


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## maltrout512 (15 Oct 2011)

Coming along Craig. You say that it's elm. Not to put a damper on the box but elm is kind of renowned for moving long after it's been cut / made. Keep going. You can see a box I made at my website.

All the best


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## cmwatt (15 Oct 2011)

Thanks guys and thanks Ian again for the hinges etc. I think your (and Malcolm's) boxes look great! Hope to be able to make them as good one day.

Thanks for the info Malcolm, things like that are really helpful to know. Perhaps I should get some books to learn of the more elementary things like that! Any book suggestions for complete beginners welcomed.


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## maltrout512 (16 Oct 2011)

Craig, there is only so much that you can learn from books. You learn a lot more by making furniture (hands on). I am only an e-mail away and will always take time to help. Thank you for taking the time to look.
Just remember it;s very easy to make a mistake, getting out of it requires a little more skill.

All the best and keep well



Malcolm


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## devonwoody (16 Oct 2011)

I would comment the same as other posters here, a very good start and you have started a learning process that never stops.

My solution to timber moving and warping on work like this is to work a lot with strip pieces and I like contrast patterns anyway.

If your lid top is unglued, perhaps you could remove, cut to strips and make up for loss of timber with a contrast edging piece.


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## markturner (16 Oct 2011)

Hey Craig, that's pretty darn good buddy, I too am embarking on this kind of joinery as a novice, the last 6 months and am currently making my first dovetailed box. I spent all afternoon and the box is one set of dovetails smaller than when it started as I had to cut them off and start again, they were so bad the first time!! They are not brilliant now, but yours are much better. I did learn however that its better to make a very accurate saw cut and leave the shaping with chisels to an absolute minimum. I kept getting problems where the chisel cut would pull wood away with the grain, rather than follow the line. Once that happens, it's too late!! ( I was using cherry) 

would you agree? I have Rob Cosman's video and watched few people on you tube doing it, but its so easy to go wrong. Still, each set I did was better than the last, as I went round the box. I am trying to decide now whether to do them again, or just carry on, after all, I cant expect it to be perfect first time.. Trouble is the box keeps getting smaller!!

But it is good fun, if a little frustrating ! Well done again!

Cheers, Mark


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## devonwoody (16 Oct 2011)

We had a member here some years ago that recommended a mirror is placed behind you dovetail saw cuts so you can observe your rear cutting line, hope that helps. Also another member did one dovetail test piece everyday before he started any stock work to gain the skill which he says now comes automatically.


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## andersonec (16 Oct 2011)

cmwatt":3fhx8zz7 said:


> How are you finishing the box?



Craig, Sorry for the delay in replying, I finish them with three or four coats of Danish oil then a coat of wax, make sure you give it a buff with some very fine grit paper or 0000 wire wool before applying the wax, makes it feel like velvet.

I still have to have a go at some dovetails but I think I will have to practice on some scrap first, not as brave as you.

Ref. Rob Cosman, I think that is a good exercise in salesmanship for his tools, people have been making superb dovetails long before he came along with his super expensive tools.

One more thing, I have been getting advice from Ian sometimes, just send him a picture, he is more than helpful and who better to get advice from.

Andy


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## mn pete (17 Oct 2011)

Nicely done Craig! My first dovetails didn't fit like those! :shock:


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## cmwatt (17 Oct 2011)

Thanks for the idea devonwoody, not sure if strips would fit in the the style or design I had in mind, but will think about it.  

Hi Mark, I guess you mean me (Craig), not Ian.  I had the same problem as you, using the chisels to try and get it closer to the line, when in fact it's so much easier as you say to get a good accurate saw cut and use the chisel as little as possible. In fact I recently bought a piercing saw (from workshop heaven) for future use for removing the waste, so there is less fiddling with chisels and should make things quicker. Like you say, practice makes a lot of difference. I practised on some soft wood before (maybe 3 or 4 times, and made a mess of the first 2 or so (getting chip out etc), but was happy enough to give it a go on the harder wood. I must say I found it so much easier using hardwood for dovetails. I have seen Rob Cosman's videos which were helpful, but his tools are ridiculously pricey! :shock: 

The good thing with my Pax dovetail saw is it is reflective, so is easier to keep it aligned. A wee tip I found somewhere on the net, was cutting wee notches with a chisel on the waste side of the line to help get a good start.

Thanks for the info andersonec, was thinking about using a similar finish on mine. Currently thinking about getting a router table which would make life a lot easier fitting the hinges and lock, rather than trying to balance the router on a 15mm thick piece of elm.


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## Benchwayze (21 Oct 2011)

Craig, 

That is very nice for a first attempt. Nothing too worrying for sure. 

Just fill those cracks in the dovetails with some veneer, of the right sort, with the end grain showing. Put some glue into the gap, then tap the veneer into the gap, like a wedge. Two or three pieces if necessary. When the glue is dry, clean up and you will barely notice the gaps. 

For the rebate repair, rout a 6mm wide housing all the way round, deep enough to take some sort of banding. Square the corners and glue in the lining. That will hide the joint and the mistake you made on the rebating. I have some bits of banding (Boxwood and ebony) lying about, if it's any use to you. 

Overall, nice work. Better than my first attempts at dovetails.  

Regards
John


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## andersonec (21 Oct 2011)

Benchwayze":30g2amlp said:


> For the rebate repair, rout a 6mm wide housing all the way round, deep enough to take some sort of banding.
> 
> John



John, That is exactly what I have done to mine (copied Ian Hawthorne's) and it does help to hide any flaws in the corners of the lid, also any gaps between lid and sides, it can also add a bit of decorative interest.

Craig, ref the home made router table, have a look on youtube for designs, it doesn't have to be anything technical as long as your fence is dead straight. As for books, they are ok but a bit restricted for information, a still picture can only relay that instant in time when the picture was taken. There is a good video available "Basic Box Making" by Doug Stowe, moving pictures seem to be more helpful to me, it shows how a process is done and he doesn't use anything too technical, if you get it you will see what I mean about the router table.

I'm waiting for when Ian Hawthorne makes a video of one of his boxes from start to finish..........come on Ian :lol: :lol: :lol: 

Andy


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## Benchwayze (21 Oct 2011)

andersonec":1u9dxyhx said:


> Benchwayze":1u9dxyhx said:
> 
> 
> > For the rebate repair, rout a 6mm wide housing all the way round, deep enough to take some sort of banding.
> ...



I'm glad you didn't ask me how I 'discovered' that little dodge Andy! :mrgreen: 

John


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## cmwatt (23 Oct 2011)

Thanks for the tips John.  I don't have any elm veneer, but I do have of other types of wood. Is it possible to make some small slithers from some of my elm off cuts? How would I get them really thin? Also would this achieve a better look than just using some elm saw dust?

As for the rebate repair, not 100% sure what you mean, but I think I have an idea. You mean create a rebate around the completed edge of the lid then apply some banding, to cover the joints? I think that would work well, but not sure if it would work with the design I had in mind. Looks like I'm going to have to rethink how I do the top... :-k Don't want to do a straight copy of Ian's work as much as it as inspired my design, so might try something different.

For the router table, I bought the Dakota Deluxe Router Table from Rutlands for £99 inlc delivery. Haven't used it yet as I just got it at the end of last week and assembled it on Saturday. Seems a good sturdy piece of kit, seems they've improved the stand from previous versions. Got the router bits now too, so it's just a matter of practising on some scrap first.  Will try and post some more pics this week sometime.  

Thanks guys.


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## Benchwayze (23 Oct 2011)

Craig,

Perhaps you could take some thick shavings off one of the offcuts. That might do the job.


You could also put the stock in the vice and with a wide, sharp chisel cut some thin lengths off. Rest the piece you cut off against the stop of your bench-hook, and stick it down with some double-sided tape. Carefully shave it to a wedge shape, as thin as you need. 

See Codeeteso's WIP on his workbench, and note how he cut the wedges for his Mortice and Tenons. 

I can assure you if you get the shavings set down tight, and resist cleaning up until the glue is dry, you wont see the join, as long as it is the end-grain of the infill that shows. 

The only other answer for the top is to make another piece and re-cut the rebate; if there is enough stuff left around the edge to do that. One other way would be to cover the top completely, but stability might be an issue; especially with elm. 

HTH
John


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## condeesteso (23 Oct 2011)

Very nice indeed, excellent dovetails., nice proportions, not over-fussy etc. =D> 
re the hinges and lock, routing etc on small pieces like this ... something could so go wrong! If that was mine I would go for the chisels and do the lot by hand. Try an adjustable square as the depth gauge for the hinge recesses for example. It's just that by hand and with patience, I think you might have more control and it would be a shame to make an error now. A router can make a really big error very quickly of course... I know that.


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## cmwatt (24 Oct 2011)

Hi John, that's just the kind of stuff I needed to know! Thanks.  Regarding the top, I was talking to Devonwoody. It was suggested cutting strips of elm and alternating the grain, which should make it more stable. So I might have a go at doing that. I did think about trying to flatten the existing piece since is only dips about 1mm on the top. The problem is more on the underside of the rebate which is a maybe a couple of mm out. However I was told it would probably still warp after doing that. When you seal the wood, isn't that suppose to stop the wood moving to an extent? If it went wrong, I could always use it as a practice piece for doing an inlay on the top using some veneer I've got.

I know what you're saying condeesteso, the thought did cross my mind trying to do it by hand but don't think I'd be able to get it accurate enough. For example the front edges of the hinges are curved and I don't have any curved chisels. The actual instructions that come with Ian's box hardware say to use a router table. I think the idea being that the box is already glued together, then you cut the hinge recesses, rather than trying to do it on the individual sides/corners. That way it should give you more control.  Thanks for the warning though, I know things could go wrong. If I thought that about everything though, then I'd never use a power tool! It's just a matter of being careful.


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## cmwatt (24 Oct 2011)

Some pictures of my new toy  :




_MG_5442 by Craig Watt, on Flickr




_MG_5443 by Craig Watt, on Flickr

and also some veneer I bought, which I might use to do some inlay type stuff on the top:




_MG_5445 by Craig Watt, on Flickr


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## jkwhinfrey (11 Nov 2011)

That's a pretty good first attempt at a box. Getting good tight joints seems straight forward... until you try it 

But trying it, and trying again is the only way to get the beautiful finish you see in the magazines and this forum. 

The next one'll be even better, but you're starting from a good place


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## Mark A (11 Nov 2011)

Nice box!

Is your router table fence straight and square? I bought that table and had to replace the fence as the aluminium extrusion was skewed by about 3/8" from one corner to the other and Rutlands wouldn't do anything about it as it was within manufacturers tolerance!

Mark


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## cmwatt (14 Nov 2011)

Thanks guys, yeah just need to practice lots like you say jkwhinfrey. Not sure about the fence for the table Mark, seems to be straight and square although haven't checked it properly. I was using it for the first time properly today on some scraps to get it set up for doing the grooves for the hinges. Seemed to work fine. (hammer) 

No pictures to show just now (maybe tomorrow), but I've glued the sides and base together now with only the top piece to fix now. Tried a combination of using slithers of wood and saw dust to fill the gaps. Need to tidy up the joints which I hope to do tomorrow perhaps. I even managed to flatten the top piece just about, so it might be usable. I'm thinking of doing a contrasting edge banding around the top as has been suggested. I've put some india ink on a tiny scrap of elm to see how it looked and think I might do that for the banding and also perhaps a matching rectangle insert. What do you guys think? Any more suggestions? :duno:


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## cmwatt (24 Nov 2011)

A wee update on things. Progress has been a little slower than I'd have hoped, but I've had other things to do. Anyway, a few pics:




_MG_5471 by Craig Watt, on Flickr
Routed the gaps for the hinges and face plates for the lock, however I need to make a mortice for the lock itself and drill a hole for the key yet.




_MG_5472 by Craig Watt, on Flickr
Managed to get the top piece basically flat, I clamped it to the workbench upside down and left it for a couple of days and after I unclamped it was a lot better. I then took my block plane and got rid of the high points nearer the sides. It hasn't warped since and that was about 2 weeks ago and now there are no gaps. If I keep it in the same environment for now then seal it when I get to that stage, I'm hoping that should stop it warping again. Everything else is glued together apart from the top, so there's still time to change it in case it does go wrong. (hammer) 




_MG_5473 by Craig Watt, on Flickr
View of the back with the hinges sticking out just, as per fitting instructions. They're quite easy to install once everything is set up right. Very happy I got them.  

Next step (after fitting the lock) is to make a shelf to sit on the wee ledges on the inside and line it with something. My aunt owns a kilt shop, so might use tartan offcuts.


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## cmwatt (3 Dec 2011)

Managed to make some decent progress this week. (hammer) Almost done making the tray for sitting inside now, found a scrap piece of plywood in the garage and cut to size. It was a bit messy, so I tried to clean it up. The underside is fine, put the messiest side facing up since that will be covered anyway. The plan is to cut a hole through the centre compartment for easy removal then a small compartment either side for rings and two larger ones for necklaces/bracelets etc.




_MG_5487 by Craig Watt, on Flickr

Found some self-adhesive foam type stuff on ebay which I intend to wrap some of this tartan around which I got from my aunt's shop (It's a unique tartan to their shop, can't get it anywhere else - called Ben Wyvis Tartan). I will use this to line the interior of the box and tray.




_MG_5494 by Craig Watt, on Flickr

The next thing I done was do some test pieces to practise finishing. The plan is to do a large flower (daisy) picture on the top of the lid using acrylic paint (originally intended to do an inlay, but think that would take too long). Here's a quick flower I done in 15mins or so on a scrap piece of softwood:




_MG_5480 by Craig Watt, on Flickr

Here's it with a layer of Chestnut's Hard Wax Oil over it (seems to not affect the paint as far as I can tell, will see once the oil has dried properly):



_MG_5484 by Craig Watt, on Flickr

So getting there finally, only got until a week on Monday until my fiancée arrives and it has to be done by then! :shock:


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