# How to restore Oak beam



## Mundungus (5 May 2013)

Hi All,

I've bought an old Oak beam from a local reclamation yard that I want to restore and use for my fireplace. The fireplace used to have a Rayburn installed, so is quite high. The plan is to cut down the Oak beam and fit it between the brick pillars, and plasterboard the gap above it, and then have the whole thing rendered, so as to create an Inglenook fireplace effect.

I wanted to ask you guys on here, how best to restore and finish the beam. I've started sanding it with my palm sander, which has taken off a lot of dirt and some woodworm affected dry edges, but I don't know how long to continue sanding it, or what I should do next. Should I oil it? If so, what type of oil is best? Or wax it?

The young lad at the reclamation yard told me about some wax product from screwfix that will fill in little holes here and there (old removed nails). I can't actually find what he's talking about in the screwfix catalogue, does anyone know what sort of product he's talking about? And whether that's a good idea?


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## Dangermouse (5 May 2013)

Depends on what look your after. If you keep on taking off the outer layers you will end up with a bit of wood that looks like new. So defeats the object a bit. Just stop when you have a finish you like, there's no rules. As to finish a good solid wax will be fine. It will take a long time to build up a good sheen though, just keep polishing, (hammer)


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## RogerS (5 May 2013)

If you are going to have a 'live' fire then fit some heat-resistant material to the underside and interior face.


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## Mundungus (5 May 2013)

Thanks for the replies.

Is there any particular wax you recommend. And would it be just clear wax, or is it coloured at all?

There is a bit of a green tinge at one end, shall I just sand this out then, or if there is a coloured wax, would that cover it ok?

We're having a wood burner installed, so not really an open fire. The installer guys seem to know what they are doing. Were using double skinned flue pipe to ensure the heat isn't a problem with the beam, and he said he'd put some fire-board behind it also.


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## Dangermouse (5 May 2013)

Any good solid wax will do, if you want coloured or plain, I would think that's a decision for you to make. same with the green bit, if you don't like it get rid of it, if you like it keep it. There are few fast rules to this sort of thing.


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## Spindle (6 May 2013)

Hi

A soft, (brass), wire rotary brush in a hand drill will do a much better job of removing the crud and rot than a palm sander. a normal, (hand operated), wire brush used with the grain is another option. Both will leave the sound wood more or less intact and retain the 'aged' look of the oak. Wear eye and breathing protection when carrying out this operation.
Wax application and buffing is best done with brushes, (imagine shoe polishing type brushes).

Regards Mick


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## Jacob (6 May 2013)

Depends what it's like but most likely I wouldn't do anything mechanical to the surface at all. It'll never look like new and you destroy the patina. Instead wash it with sugar soap (hoover and/or pressure hose first if it's really messy) and when it's dry brush it with raw linseed oil (half n half with turps).


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## Mundungus (2 Jun 2013)

Right, so I have mounted the beam to the fireplace. Need to get my bit finished today, as the plaster might be able to get in to render it this week.

Have been thinking about the advice given. If I used wax, wouldn't that melt with the heat of the wood burner?

If I use oil, should I oil it before the plasterer renders around it?

And is there any way to age the cut ends?

I wanted to post a couple of pictures but it says I don't have the right permissions on my account.


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