# What hinges to use?



## Trevanion (13 Sep 2020)

I’m pretty sure it’s been asked here before but I just want some opinions since I’m a bit rusty when it comes to _fine_ woodworking.

I’m in the very early stages of thinking out a chest and I’m not quite sure what hinges to use to attach the top to the chest, I haven’t actually thought through anything yet such as actual timber dimensions or even the overall size of the thing (For rough sizes sake let’s say 900mm wide, 400mm deep and 400mm tall, roughly) I want the top which will be something like 20mm thick to overhang the edge of the chest all around by say 10mm or so. I’ve done a really rough sketch of the kind of construction I might be doing just for a bit of visual, I’m not sure whether I should hinge it off the horizontal inset rail somehow (this would have to have some kind of hinge that would get it past the protruding posts) or hinge it off the top of the post with a fancy pair of box hinges.



Hit me with some suggestions!


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## Droogs (13 Sep 2020)

Full length inset piano hinge attached to the back and underside of the lid over hang - gives advantage of stopping at 90 deg

Quadrant hinges

Hidden barrel hinges

butt hinges


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## AndyT (13 Sep 2020)

Old chests often have tee hinges, but cranked so that the barrel is projected outside the box. 
Maybe you could use ordinary light or medium weight hinges but heat them up a bit and bend them in a vice?


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## MikeG. (13 Sep 2020)

How about a straight capping piece over the top of that construction, mitred at the corners, and going around all four sides? Then you could use orthodox butt hinges.


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## Trevanion (13 Sep 2020)

MikeG. said:


> How about a straight capping piece over the top of that construction, mitred at the corners, and going around all four sides? Then you could use orthodox butt hinges.



That's not a bad idea! The thing is I haven't really finalised anything yet but I've got a rough idea of what I want it to look like, I don't want to bandy around the term "heirloom piece" but that's sorta what I'm going for so I want everything to be perfect in my head before I start touching any wood.


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## Droogs (13 Sep 2020)

these also look nice








Buy Double-Cranked Neuform Hinge - for 15mm to 16mm Door Thickness


- For door thickness 15 - 16 mm - Butt hinge for overlay doors - Ø 4 mm barrel - Drawn profiled brass..




www.locksonline.com





or pair of edwardian finial cast iron lift off hinge kitchen cabinet cupboard hinge | Ironmongery World


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## MikeG. (13 Sep 2020)

I put a capping piece on this one, but it isn't straight. I used lay-on T hinges.


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## Trevanion (13 Sep 2020)

MikeG. said:


> I put a capping piece on this one, but it isn't straight. I used lay-on T hinges.



That looks pretty smart, there's some pretty curious looking joinery going on in that box, do you have a thread on it at all?



Droogs said:


> these also look nice
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I think that's exactly what I need, I see they also do a 20mm version which may be a better option for what I'm thinking of.


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## Blackswanwood (13 Sep 2020)

Parliament hinges may be worth considering.


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## MikeG. (13 Sep 2020)

Trevanion said:


> That looks pretty smart, there's some pretty curious looking joinery going on in that box, do you have a thread on it at all?........



No, it's from about 15 years ago.


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## recipio (14 Sep 2020)

If its a very special piece you could use 'lid stay torsion hinges ' available from Rockler in the US. It would want to be special as they are about £50 a pair. However they act like a laptop hinge so the lid will not slam on delicate fingers. As an aside, I usually buy brass hinges online and notice that they have doubled in price in the last 5 years - even if made in China. Down to the price of brass I presume !


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## Sgian Dubh (22 Sep 2020)

Trevanion said:


> I’m not sure whether I should hinge it off the horizontal inset rail somehow (this would have to have some kind of hinge that would get it past the protruding posts) or hinge it off the top of the post with a fancy pair of box hinges.
> View attachment 92121​Hit me with some suggestions!


Move the rear rail back so that its face is flush with the rear face of the leg. Moving this rail means moving the bottom rail so the panel grooves still line up. Or you could just make a thicker top rail to enable making the leg and rail faces flush. Hinge with butt hinges and include a stay to hold the lid open. 

It changes the look a bit from what you've drawn, although it's at the back and mostly hidden until you open the lid. It's just one technical solution amongst many, but it does have the virtue of being simple. Only you can decide what works aesthetically and practically for your project. Slainte.


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