# Filling Holes in Burr Maple Veneer/"Dirty" Patches in Maple



## spiderlane (10 Feb 2013)

Hi All,

I'm just finishing my first box project (a watch box) which is made from maple with a burr maple veneer lid. The finish is Danish Oil, which I mainly chose because it's a finish that I'm familiar with. 

The box lid is starting to look very nice after 2 coats, but I was wondering whether it's possible to fill some of the pinholes in the veneer in such a way that the filler doesn't become impermeable to the oil finish? It may be that it's too late now that I've started the oiling and it looks OK as is, it would just be nice to find a way to fill in some of the holes but not have the filler stand out because the oil doesn't penetrate into it. I've used the wet sanding technique to fill the pores but of course this hasn't filled the larger holes. 

The other thing you more experienced woodworkers might be able to offer a view on, is what I can only describe as "dirty" patches on the box sides in places. Initially I thought this was grime from handling during construction but during the sanding phases, they weren't removed an indeed seemed to get bigger the more I sanded back. It's difficult to show on pictures but if you look at the bottom left of the second picture you can see a slightly darker/shadow patch which is in the wood. (This was present before I applied the first coat of oil.) Any ideas as to what this is or what caused it? Or is it just a characteristic of maple? I'm new to woodworking and this is my first project using the species. 

All advice and options welcome

Thanks in advance. 
Mark


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## Gary Morris (10 Feb 2013)

Hi Mark
I'm just a begginer, but I've just ordered some grain filler from [email protected] it was a choice between a wood coloured or clear filler and some clear gel to which you added your own 'wood dust' I don't know as to whether it's too late to fill it, but it may be an option for you. Your box looks lovely.

Gary


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## rileytoolworks (14 Feb 2013)

Hello Mark.
First off, let me just say if you're a beginner, I think I'll just retire now! That box is beautiful.
How big are the 'holes'? 

The marks you mention sound like they might be sticker stains from the drying process, but without looking at the piece it's hard to say for sure.

All the best,and sorry I couldn't be more help.

Adam.


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## johnwc812 (17 Feb 2013)

Hello Mark
Beautiful box - congratulations.
I hate to say this, but the dark patches that "grow" the more you sand
could be that you have nearly gone through the veneer and the glue
layer is showing through. If this is the case - no answer but leave well alone
or sorry to say re-veneer!
Regards John


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## mrpercysnodgrass (18 Feb 2013)

Hi Mark,
Your pin holes can be filled with a two pack filler, the only one I use is WUDFILL, if you get it in the cream colour ( listed as redwood ) you can add earth pigment to it to match the colour of the timber. The fact you have already put some oil on the lid is an advantage because it will prevent the filler creeping into the grain around the hole you want to fill. Alternatively you can use a hard wax filler stick, they are pretty much the same as wax crayons but in a variety of wood colours. ( I have in emergencies gone to a newsagent and bought a pack of crayons to fill small dents ect ) Once you have a few more coats of oil over the top it should not show.
I notice you are in London, if you are norfe of the woowta you can go to WS Jenkins in Tottenham to get supplies or if you are sarf of the woowta you could go to Mylands in Lambeth.
The shadows on your box look to me to be end grain. The grain on Maple/sycamore swirls around quite a bit and you get patches of end grain that will absorb the light where as the straight grain next to it reflects the light. To test this, if you move around the box, do these dark patches change from dark to light? If so there is not much you can do about it, you could try bleaching with a two part ( A + B ) bleach, it may help a little.


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## spiderlane (18 Feb 2013)

Hi All,

Thanks very much for your kind words and suggestions. 

@johnwc812 - ah, the sides of the box (where the patches are) are solid rather than veneered. I was worried about sanding through the top veneer so was cautious on that front

@mrpercysnodgrass - I think you might be right, the patches certainly change as I move the box around in the light so I think it is just a natural characteristic of the timber. Actually now that I have 3 or 4 coats of oil on the piece the colour differential between the patches and the surrounding wood is *much* less obvious, to the point that you'd have to be looking for the patches to notice them. So I'm going to leave it as is. 

Thanks for the tips on filling the pin holes I might try some of those out on some scrap, or alternatively just leave it in it's "natural" states and do the filling the next time. (The box is a birthday present which is long overdue!)

Thanks again guys
Cheers
Mark


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## marcros (18 Feb 2013)

mrpercysnodgrass":3gjpxcrk said:


> Hi Mark,
> Alternatively you can use a hard wax filler stick, they are pretty much the same as wax crayons but in a variety of wood colours. ( I have in emergencies gone to a newsagent and bought a pack of crayons to fill small dents ect )



How do the hard wax sticks compare to the shellac sticks that I have bought and used? Obviously it is different materials, but i was concerned that wax would potentially fall out of a crack/hole/dent etc. Are these concerns unfounded? the shellac worked well, but it would have been easier not to have to melt something in.

mark


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## mrpercysnodgrass (19 Feb 2013)

The hard wax works well, I have not heard of it falling out ( it is only for small holes and gauges ). The trick with it is getting it level, the best way to do that is to turn a piece of sandpaper inside out and use the back to rub off the excess and then use a rag to rub off any residue around the filled hole. If you just use a rag to level it tends to drag some of the wax out of the hole and you end up with a bit of a dip. There are also two types of hard wax, one for shellac finishes and one for spray. Also they vary in quality, I find WS Jenkins or Liberon to be the best. I do use the shellac sticks from time to time but find you often get air bubble in them so have to re-work it to get it smooth which can be a pain.


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## marcros (19 Feb 2013)

thanks. i might try some of those then.


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## stokes (26 Feb 2013)

Firstly really nice job on the box you have made, seems that all the bases have been covered already to your questions but just wanted to add that using sawdust from scraps of the veneer mixed with dewaxed blonde shellac makes a good filler easy to sand smooth and level and does not compromise the danish oil can also be done between coats , also though not relevant to this project it will also accept stain . y the way my birthday is in october ! just kidding 
nice job Col


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