# Issues with Polyvine Lacquer



## carlb40 (3 Feb 2014)

Hi guys i'm trying to use the above (acrylic) lacquer and having problems getting a decent finish with it on a flat curly maple panel. 
This is the product 
http://www.axminster.co.uk/polyvine-acr ... ss-lacquer

The problems i have had so far. First try on the base of my toolbox resulted in lines/ bristle marks from the foam brush. :? Plus as it was drying air bubbles formed and came to the surface.
So it was scraped off the next day, then using the hamilton brush below applied another first coat. Same thing happened again. 

The panel about 550mm x 280mm was sanded to 240g but then to get the curl back on the curly maple veneer i used a cabinet scraper. The thin ultra flexible one from WSH.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WORKSHOP-HEAV ... 51ad494445


So far i have tried using these 2 items to apply it.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/hamilton-namel-var-brushes
http://www.axminster.co.uk/chestnut-jenny-brushes

And considering trying one of these?
http://www.axminster.co.uk/liberon-flat-lacquer-brush 


Any ideas? 

TIA


----------



## Spindle (3 Feb 2014)

Hi

Could it be reacting with the veneer adhesive? - have you tried applying the finish to a bare piece of wood to see if you get the same effect?

Regards Mick


----------



## carlb40 (3 Feb 2014)

Not sure Mick, i used Cascamite? I will try an un glued sample in a bit once i've finished my cuppa.


----------



## Spindle (3 Feb 2014)

Hi

Shouldn't think it would react with Cascamite - sure it's air bubbles and not cissing?

Regards Mick


----------



## carlb40 (3 Feb 2014)

Cissing? What is that? :shock: 

Well they did burst when i blew on them. They never appeared straight away, maybe 10/15 minutes after i applied the laqcuer.


----------



## Spindle (3 Feb 2014)

Hi Carl

It's mentioned in the Safety Data Sheet download - I had to look it up too

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=cissi ... 76&bih=625

Regards Mick


----------



## carlb40 (3 Feb 2014)

Yes i looked it up after asking LOL. They were air bubbles that rose to the surface rather than staying under the finish. Yesterday after letting the first coat dry, i applied a second coat to see what would happen and got the same lines/ bubbles. That's why i thought it might be the brush that was used? I notice the instructions say to use a synthetic brush. So assumed either of the 1st two i linked to would be ok.


----------



## carlb40 (3 Feb 2014)

Well i tried the lacquer on an unsanded / unscraped spare piece of veneer. No brush marks or bubbles :-k


----------



## Spindle (4 Feb 2014)

Hi

That's strange - sounds like the exposed back of the veneer test piece is the only difference.

Perhaps priming the veneer first as per the data sheet would provide a sealing effect and stop the bubbles. IE prime with a damp cloth, allow to dry before re-coating.

If cissing occurs, rub onto affected area with a damp cloth to break the surface tension and
re-apply.

Bit of a poser this

Edited to ask - are you using heat lamp(s) to assist curing?

Regards Mick


----------



## CHJ (4 Feb 2014)

When using Acrylic Lacquer on turnings I use an acrylic sanding sealer (thinner mixture?) first.

The Process I use is similar to that shown on page two of this pamphlet.

I personally have yet to get a polished surface without abrading after curing using acrylic either as a brush on or rattle spray can. 

Using acrylic is also mentioned by Kim in this colouring pamphlet on page 6.

The above may not be applicable to what or how you are working but may be an insight as to how others handle a similar product.


----------



## carlb40 (4 Feb 2014)

Thanks guys i will try both and see what happens. I am also tempted to put a coat of blonde shellac on first as a sealer. First thing though i will need to scrape off the 2 coats of lacquer i have already applied. :shock:


----------



## RogerS (5 Feb 2014)

Have to confess that I slung my Polyvine out as I could never get a decent finish. Bloody expensive as well.


----------



## carlb40 (5 Feb 2014)

Spindle":1jj1ats9 said:


> Hi
> 
> That's strange - sounds like the exposed back of the veneer test piece is the only difference.
> 
> ...


Ahh sorry Mick missed your edit. No external heat is being used. It was applied at normal ( for me ) room temp, ie around 15 degrees C. Then left to dry naturally.


----------



## carlb40 (5 Feb 2014)

RogerS":60t7ol71 said:


> Have to confess that I slung my Polyvine out as I could never get a decent finish. Bloody expensive as well.


The way things are going so will i.  

Any suggestions for a brush-able lacquer?


----------



## RogerS (5 Feb 2014)

carlb40":3fzjl1ow said:


> RogerS":3fzjl1ow said:
> 
> 
> > Have to confess that I slung my Polyvine out as I could never get a decent finish. Bloody expensive as well.
> ...



Rustins Plastic Coating...don't be put off by the name


----------



## carlb40 (6 Feb 2014)

RogerS":1omu9nvu said:


> carlb40":1omu9nvu said:
> 
> 
> > RogerS":1omu9nvu said:
> ...


Thank's Roger i shall look into it.


As of now i officially give up on this polyvine lacquer.

After scraping/ sanding the previous coats off. It was wiped clean, allowed to dry. A coat of shellac applied and allowed to dry for 8hrs. About 20 minutes ago i applied a watered down first coat of lacquer again. Within 2 minutes of applying it i had bubbles, so it has been wiped off and will use something else from now on. 


Would i recommend this to a friend? No, i doubt i would even recommend it to an enemy. :lol:


----------



## carlb40 (7 Feb 2014)

These are the bubbles i get.


----------

