# Using wires for burning?



## Dino (8 Nov 2014)

So I just turned a quick little carvers mallet for myself and wanted to add a few little details.

I've seen videos on youtube where people use wire to add burnlines on the wood in little recess they make but I have no idea which wire to use!

I have some copper wire but as soon as it touched the wood it snapped due to heat.

Thanks guys!


----------



## nev (8 Nov 2014)

Guitar strings work well, just remember to use some wooden 'handles'.


----------



## paulm (8 Nov 2014)

Or a bit of formica pressed into the groove heats up and chars a nice dark line too.

Cheers, Paul


----------



## Dino (8 Nov 2014)

Guitar strings! Yes! I have some of those.

And...what is formica Paul? Google shows me some kind of plastic.


----------



## Hitch (8 Nov 2014)

I use welding wire between a couple of pairs of vise grips.
Usually plenty of that readily available!


----------



## Woodmonkey (8 Nov 2014)

Use one of the thicker (bottom three) strings they burn much better than the thinner ones


----------



## CHJ (8 Nov 2014)

Whatever wire you use make sure it is attached to a couple of scrap bits of wood, do not be tempted to hold it in your fingers
Severed fingers make a mess of unsealed wood.


----------



## Dino (8 Nov 2014)

haha, thanks for the advice CHJ...I was tempted, I'll be honest. And thanks Woodmonkey, I'll definitely do so.


----------



## monkeybiter (8 Nov 2014)

I've used copper from electrical cable, but I like the sound of the formica, it would allow for rings on a flat surface etc.


----------



## Phil Pascoe (8 Nov 2014)

It's easier if you score a line first (not in a cocaine sense) - it'll save the wire slipping around. Also if you wish to do parallel lines, use a sharp dividers to score a series of lines - you can keep them dead parallel.


----------



## Dino (8 Nov 2014)

Yeah, I figured that. I scored the lines already just need a way to actually...burn them.


----------



## gregmcateer (9 Nov 2014)

Dino":2il8nwjv said:


> And...what is formica Paul? Google shows me some kind of plastic.



Correct:
Wikipedia is your friend;
Formica laminate is a brand of composite materials manufactured by New Zealand-based Formica Group. The material was discovered in 1912, and is manufactured for a variety of applications today. In common use, the term Formica refers to the company's classic product, a heat-resistant, wipe-clean, plastic laminate of paper or fabric with melamine resin.

I haven't tried it, but I would think any form of man-made laminate, (i.e. not wood!), should work.

Try breaking a bit of some old kitchen worktop and use that.

Let us know how you get on.


----------



## Bodrighy (9 Nov 2014)

I haven't tried it myself but have heard that old credit cards work as well. 

Pete


----------



## J-G (9 Nov 2014)

gregmcateer":2gbspds5 said:


> Dino":2gbspds5 said:
> 
> 
> > And...what is formica Paul? Google shows me some kind of plastic.
> ...


You could try to find a local joinery company and beg them for some of their old samples. The various manufacturers send these out each time there is a change on the patterns offered. I have a customer who uses laminates for a variety of his work and seeing a box full of old samples I begged a few strings with just this process in mind.

The samples in the photo are 54 x 67 x 0.7mm thick 'Nevamar' by Panolam and if anyone would like some they are welcome to them for the cost of postage - send me a PM.


----------



## ianedge (9 Nov 2014)

I saw somewhere that you can use the base material from printed circuit boards so I gave it a try and it seems to work ok,


----------



## Dino (9 Nov 2014)

I picked the guitar string route since I had some of those! Currently the glue is drying on my make-shift wooden...toggles? 

I'll post a picture of the mallet when I am done asking for tips and what not. Should be tomorrow or tuesday.


----------



## chill (10 Nov 2014)

> I haven't tried it myself but have heard that old credit cards work as well



must have money to burn :lol:


----------



## chipmunk (10 Nov 2014)

Brass picture wire often has a fine steel wire in the middle to provide the strength. 
This single strand of steel wire (approx 0.5mm) is ideal and even though the temper goes quite quickly it doesn't matter.

...but as others have said use wooden toggles on each end and create a groove with either a skew point or the corner of a scraper to stop the wire moving from where you want the burn line.

This will obviously only work for spindles and the formica is your best bet for grooves in a flat surface.

HTH
Jon


----------



## Glynne (10 Nov 2014)

For larger lines, bike (& motorbike) cables work well.


----------



## duncanh (10 Nov 2014)

ianedge":jjfiqbq1 said:


> I saw somewhere that you can use the base material from printed circuit boards so I gave it a try and it seems to work ok,



Yes, PCB material works well, it's what I use for flat work. I tend to use the fibre glass version. I also use paxolin, which is a type of resin bonded paper. Use some extraction or a mask when using these as I believe they give off unpleasant gases when burned.
For wire I have some that I bought years back specifically for the job. I think it's nickel chrome wire and is the same as used in pyrography machines - I have a few reels which I bought from Peter Child a few years ago. It can take a lot of heat and lasts for ages.


----------



## steadyeddie (10 Nov 2014)

As an alternative to the 2 handled idea, I use a thin piece of wire fixed in an old junior hacksaw. Works a treat. 

Dave


----------



## Glynne (10 Nov 2014)

Dave
What a very simple and brilliant idea. With a taut wire you should be able to get a very precise line.
Anybody got an old junior hacksaw frame they don't want?


----------



## procell (10 Nov 2014)

It may be obvious but a good tip is not to touch the wire after you have burnt your line as it will instantly burn lines in your fingers too.


----------



## Ian down london way (11 Nov 2014)

I use the multi-strand picture hanging wire you can get from DIY shops. Very very strong. You can twist it to itself, so attacheding to two wooden handles is easy.

(Ops, should have read the second page - its been suggested already. The bit I used has burnt probably 100 rings and not yet broken).


----------



## Normancb (14 Nov 2014)

The back of an old hacksaw blade works well - or turn the blade of a junior hacksaw backwards for a thinner line. Old credit cards don't sound like a good idea to me - they are PVC and I suspect will soften too easily. The brown PCB material is basically formica without the decorative layer


----------

