# How to cut brass discs with woodworking tools



## Snettymakes (20 Nov 2021)

I’m after some advise on cutting brass (also copper, bronze and aluminium) discs from 25mm diameter rods (round stock?). Obviously the right tool for this would be a metal cutting bandsaw, but alas all I have is a woodworking workshop.

I have successfully cut brass on my cheapo bandsaw with a fine toothed blade, but the blade wandered setting awful and parallel cuts are critical. Copper overheated the stock (I think it melted a bit ).

I’m guessing that to cut through metal that thick I need to use a low tpi blade as if I were ripping planks, and a wide blade to keep the cut true?


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## Alpha-Dave (20 Nov 2021)

Sounds like you are making life hard for yourself; cutting discs from a sheet would be far easier than from rod.

If you are committed to using rod, then how many do you need? Less than 10 per week, I would use a hacksaw by hand, then use a file to clean up the surface. Solid fixing the workpiece is key, where a vice is useful, but a couple of G-clamps will do the job.


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## Alpha-Dave (20 Nov 2021)

Using a ‘cutting’ chop-saw (rather than grinding), I can get slices of aluminium and steel that are <0.5 mm but will lose 2-3 mm in the cut as swarf.


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## Daniel2 (20 Nov 2021)

Perhaps find someone with a metal lathe, and have them part them off ?
What thickness do the discs need to be, and how many do you need to
produce ?


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## Snettymakes (20 Nov 2021)

Alpha-Dave said:


> Sounds like you are making life hard for yourself; cutting discs from a sheet would be far easier than from rod.
> 
> If you are committed to using rod, then how many do you need? Less than 10 per week, I would use a hacksaw by hand, then use a file to clean up the surface. Solid fixing the workpiece is key, where a vice is useful, but a couple of G-clamps will do the job.



yes some context would have been helpful. I’m making walking sticks for sale on Etsy, and the metal discs act as a transition between cane and handle. So I need the process to be repeatable and quick . Using hand tools is out of the question unfortunately.

I started out using brass sheet but it results in to much cleanup. Though now I think about it, a circle cutting jig would obviously improve that and as each disc ends up with a hole in the middle (for a pin/tenon that joins the handle and cane) then I could start with the hole and use that for the jig pivot .

I should have posted here weeks ago .


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## Snettymakes (20 Nov 2021)

Daniel2 said:


> Perhaps find someone with a metal lathe, and have them part them off ?
> What thickness do the discs need to be, and how many do you need to
> produce ?



Approaching a metal worker to make these for me is definitely in my plans for the future, but I need income from my Etsy store to fund that.


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## bourbon (20 Nov 2021)

Google them, they are washers after all, 
edit, quick 30 second search Brass 10mm Inside Washer and 25mm Outside [PLU71075] - Lampspares 
OK there is a cost, but you will spend more in time faffing about making them


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## Daniel2 (20 Nov 2021)

Can't you find a model engineer local to you, to knock off a few ?
I would happily do it for you (for nothing, to get you started), but
I'm too far away.


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## Daniel2 (20 Nov 2021)

bourbon said:


> Google them, they are washers after all,
> edit, quick 30 second search Brass 10mm Inside Washer and 25mm Outside [PLU71075] - Lampspares
> OK there is a cost, but you will spend more in time faffing about making them



I expect they need to be somewhat thicker than a washer, though.


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## Snettymakes (20 Nov 2021)

bourbon said:


> Google them, they are washers after all,
> edit, quick 30 second search Brass 10mm Inside Washer and 25mm Outside [PLU71075] - Lampspares
> OK there is a cost, but you will spend more in time faffing about making them



I had the same thought. They aren’t thick enough, but I bought some anyway and they turned out to not be completely flat either, somewhat cone shaped. Shame because washers would be the perfect solution if they could be obtained in the right sizes


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## Snettymakes (20 Nov 2021)

Daniel2 said:


> Can't you find a model engineer local to you, to knock off a few ?
> I would happily do it for you (for nothing, to get you started), but
> I'm too far away.



Maybe this would be easier than I expected. I’m going to try a circle cutting jig first, and then maybe.

It’s not just the price, but agility. I’m learning a lot about dimensions and materials, and that involves trying many things, so being able to do it myself speeds all of that up.


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## Fitzroy (20 Nov 2021)

Would a hole saw in a drill press not produce what you need from a sheet?

Or the correct blade on a table saw with a cross cut sled, from bar stock.


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## Snettymakes (20 Nov 2021)

Fitzroy said:


> Would a hole saw in a drill press not produce what you need from a sheet?
> 
> Or the correct blade on a table saw with a cross cut sled, from bar stock.



would it be ok to use a table saw? I know brass is soft and you can use a bandsaw to cut it, but not so sure about a table saw blade.

I’d be afraid to put that big a blade through that much material. Even with an appropriate jig for safety, bar stock would make a hell of a projectile.


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## Sideways (20 Nov 2021)

Brass is horrid to clean up. I renovated an old lathe that had been used to turn brass dry and it was everywhere. Personally I would not want it in my tablesaw, BUT, thinking aloud :
An old Metabo KGS variable speed circular saw I owned was rated for metal cutting. The manual said to dial down the speed and I have happily cut several feet of 16mm thick aluminium plate with it this way.
You could reduce the speed and increase the torque of a tablesaw by fitting an undersized blade that gave you just enough depth of cut to get through your 1" brass. I would be aiming for half speed or less so would suggest as small a blade as you can as that will be a challenge to reach.


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## Alpha-Dave (20 Nov 2021)

I certainly would not use a tablesaw for this operation.


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## Sideways (20 Nov 2021)

You would probably want a negative rake blade so that the metal isn't pulled into the blade.


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## Alpha-Dave (20 Nov 2021)

I have the Evolution Rage4 saw, which I mostly use for steel and aluminium, It would probably do what you want: 

~£100 from various places. 









Evolution RAGE4 1250W 185mm Electric Chop Saw 220-240V


Order online at Screwfix.com. Powerful, accurate bench tool for multi-materials. Rage technology saw easily cuts steel, aluminium, wood and plastic using just one blade. Hassle-free, fast and easy work with no blade changes. Ideal for slicing through threaded bars, bolt trimmings and many other...



www.screwfix.com


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## Droogs (20 Nov 2021)

If you want to do it cheap find an old Wolfcraft type drill powered lathe and some gravers tools or a mini partting tool and use that to make your own. Non ferrous metals are easy enough to do by hand this way.


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## Snettymakes (20 Nov 2021)

Droogs said:


> If you want to do it cheap find an old Wolfcraft type drill powered lathe and some gravers tools or a mini partting tool and use that to make your own. Non ferrous metals are easy enough to do by hand this way.



I have an Axminster AC370 lathe that I bought recently, I assume that is better for this application.


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## Daniel2 (20 Nov 2021)

That's a wood lathe.


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## Snettymakes (20 Nov 2021)

Daniel2 said:


> That's a wood lathe.



sure, but he was recommending a lathe powered by a drill, is that really better than a wood lathe? I’m guessing from your comment that a drill has more torque than a wood lathe?


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## Droogs (20 Nov 2021)

Yes it is but is more than capable of turning non ferrous metals. I have used one for years to make finials and knobs etc for boxes and even used it to make a Victorian style set of 84 balusters 15mm high for holding a external water cooling pipe set up for a PC case in the shape of a guys Neo-gothic mansion. Similar to the pic below


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## Sachakins (20 Nov 2021)

Wood lathe totally capable of turning non ferrous metals.
Here's a guy turning brass.


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## Daniel2 (20 Nov 2021)

Gosh, I stand corrected there then.


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## Old.bodger (20 Nov 2021)

I think you missed / misunderstood the mention of a hole saw in an earlier post. They are like drills with a saw blade around them. Ideal for the purpose you describe.


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## Sandyn (20 Nov 2021)

This any use?


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## Cabinetman (20 Nov 2021)

Alpha-Dave said:


> I certainly would not use a tablesaw for this operation.


If it’s all you have – maybe, but I was always taught never to cut across a circular section on a table saw. If the blade catches the work will spin! You will need to find some sort of method to hold it using G cramps or similar, not just as it is, the cramp won’t hold on the circular section. Ian
Edit I am assuming you have a crosscut slide on your saw.


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## TRITON (20 Nov 2021)

Might I ask what these discs are for ?.

Seems an awful lot of faffing about when you can buy such things, and they're likely to be perfectly round.








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www.ebay.co.uk


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## Ttrees (20 Nov 2021)

Snettymakes said:


> I had the same thought. They aren’t thick enough, but I bought some anyway and they turned out to not be completely flat either, somewhat cone shaped. Shame because washers would be the perfect solution if they could be obtained in the right sizes ☹


Can you not hammer them flat, drill and pien them with even a soft nail to get the thickness you desire, the contrast might be nice, but you could get thin rod for an invisible result.
Once you pien something you will be looking to use it everywhere.

A good method with a short soft nail, say a roofing nail, is to grind the tip off and pien the end,
using the head against a sledge hammer or anvil and a wee warington style hammer, cut it off and repeat.
Great for machine badges or whathaveyou.


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## Fitzroy (20 Nov 2021)

My earlier post was supposed to be a question not a statement regarding the table saw. One wrong bit of punctuation and I about killed somebody from the looks of the responses, oops.


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## Mike57 (21 Nov 2021)

I think any search needs to know the thickness of the disc as it affects the process likely to be used to make it. Apologies if I missed the size in the thread above. But increasing the thickness limits the choice of process (as well as cost and batch size obviously). 
Thinner items like washers can also be flattened more easily if needed. And much easier to make oneself from sheet with a holesaw, say. 
So might a stack of thin discs work better economically? 
And it gives the option of a 'value added' visual feature of multiple materials such as brass, steel, brass or brass, wood, brass for example.


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## Fergie 307 (21 Nov 2021)

Try a search on e bay for round brass, or whatever, discs. There are people doing laser cut round discs in steel and stainless, I dare say there will be others offering this service in other metals. 25 mm should be no problem for a decent bandsaw in aluminium, just make sure you lubricate it and use at least an 18 tpi blade. You won't be able to do brass on a wood bandsaw unless you can slow the blade right down. Copper is a pain however you do it as it heats up so quickly. Parting 25mm copper round bar on a metal lathe you would really need full flow cooling.


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## Fergie 307 (21 Nov 2021)

And if you have a wood lathe with a jawed chuck them drilling the hole in the middle would be no problem, or just use a pillar drill and a simple jig for repeatability.


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## Snettymakes (21 Nov 2021)

I should have stated that for thickness, I need a variety, but mostly using around 5mm.

For those asking the use.. I’m making walking sticks and use these as transitions between the handle and cane


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## Adam W. (21 Nov 2021)

It sounds like you need to experiment with what you have (a variable speed wood lathe and find something to part them off with) rather than ask for the perfect solution on a forum, because you're doing something which is unusual.


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## bansobaby (21 Nov 2021)

Chopsaw such as Evo with an appropriate blade, then jig on pillar drill for centre hole. Quick, cheap, safe, easy and versatile….


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## bansobaby (21 Nov 2021)

Forgot to add you can get drilled bar stock which would save an operation


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## Fergie 307 (21 Nov 2021)

Snettymakes said:


> yes some context would have been helpful. I’m making walking sticks for sale on Etsy, and the metal discs act as a transition between cane and handle. So I need the process to be repeatable and quick . Using hand tools is out of the question unfortunately.
> 
> I started out using brass sheet but it results in to much cleanup. Though now I think about it, a circle cutting jig would obviously improve that and as each disc ends up with a hole in the middle (for a pin/tenon that joins the handle and cane) then I could start with the hole and use that for the jig pivot .
> 
> I should have posted here weeks ago .


If these are just essentially a trim, for appearance then why not cut them from tube, much cheaper and easier to do. Just turn down the end of one of your two components to the ID of the tube and viola.


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## Fergie 307 (21 Nov 2021)

For aluminium, brass or copper tube you can use an adjustable wheel cutter. Not expensive and will make a nice clean cut. Just go gently, if you put too much pressure on the wheel it will push an indentation in the pipe and reduce the diameter at the cut which you don't want. Doing it this way you will have no waste and I should think each cut will take about 30 seconds in copper, a bit longer in brass but still quick and simple. I would be wary of fitting copper in contact with wood as it will stain the wood over time.


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## Woodbee2 (21 Nov 2021)

My Startrite Bandsaw happily cuts metal BUT... I can slow the speed right down, and use a metal cutting blade, 14+ TPI.
The biggest danger is the bar tries to roll in towards the blade to start with, resulting in a powerful SNATCH, and again when you have nearly cut through. The solution is to make cradle which can be clamped to stop this rolling force... very light pressure at the start of the cut...and at the end....with moderate pressure in the middle to cut through the thickest part. And listen to the machine....if it struggles a bit ease off the feed pressure.
Also make sure ALL the thrust bearings and guides are as close as possible to the blade, which gives the blade support, and stops most of any wobble in the cut. Don’t even try using a blunt blade....and wear EAR DEFENDERS.
The noise can be deafening!
Be interested to hear which method you use.
The obvious solution is a Metal Lathe and simply part them off, having drilled the centre hole first...I don’t think my model engineer Lathe is big enough but I might try a few.


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## Phil Russell (22 Nov 2021)

Very interesting thread. As I see it, there are two options: start from round bar and cut discs or start from flat plate and cut through the plate. Each has its pros and cons which I am sure you can appreciate.
If using round bar then I think that trying to cut all the way through with a mini lathe is not really on... 25mm is a long way. By all means use the lathe to scribe / cut a shallow recess around the bar to act as a guide, but then use a hacksaw to make the cut. If using plate, I advise the use of a pillar drill fitted with a good quality hole cutter. Obviously you will need to be able to clamp / secure the plate to the drill; I use a drill mounted vice. I have cut 20 and 25mm diameter discs in 6mm aluminium and 4mm mild steel using this method with no real problem. 
Alternatively, ask a local machine shop if they could make them for you. I have no idea of the cost though.
A thought: do the discs need to be perfectly round? Or will you be finishing the outer diameter to fit? I ask because years ago I made a knife handle and used 6mm aluminium in part of it. I roughly cut a bit of 6mm plate and then finished it to fit by hand using grinder and filing.
Just thoughts.
Cheers, Phil


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## Snettymakes (22 Nov 2021)

Some really great food for thought in these replies. Please don't be offended if I don't reply to them all though.



Adam W. said:


> It sounds like you need to experiment with what you have (a variable speed wood lathe and find something to part them off with) rather than ask for the perfect solution on a forum, because you're doing something which is unusual.



Yes you're right, but honestly that's kinda what I was asking for in retrospect. A combination of hard information (tool X performs job Y, tool A is bad for job B etc) and anecdotes (I've tried x and it worked well/not) that I can apply to the context that I have (which would take pages upon pages to share) in order to come up with a tailored solution to my unique problem.


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## Fitzroy (22 Nov 2021)

Snettymakes said:


> Some really great food for thought in these replies. Please don't be offended if I don't reply to them all though.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you're right, but honestly that's kinda what I was asking for in retrospect. A combination of hard information (tool X performs job Y, tool A is bad for job B etc) and anecdotes (I've tried x and it worked well/not) that I can apply to the context that I have (which would take pages upon pages to share) in order to come up with a tailored solution to my unique problem.


Thinking out loud with a bunch of other people who have related experience, but unlikely to have ever made/completed precisely what I am working on, with the toolset I have available. Or that's how I use this place a lot of the time.

Another thought, from my huge experience (watching youtube and forgedinfire), it seems where a metal component is used to transition between other materials it is oversized and then ground/sanded flush. I'm currently making an item with two different woods and once piece is oversized so I can sand it back flush. I know I could not make two pieces sufficiently accurate that they would fit without this need.


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## Snettymakes (22 Nov 2021)

Phil Russell said:


> A thought: do the discs need to be perfectly round? Or will you be finishing the outer diameter to fit?



Yes. 

Actually it depends, either would work. 

It all depends on boring the mortices in the handle and cane, if I can get those absolutely spot on (positioned and plumb), then I can use the pin to locate the transition absolutely perfectly in the middle of the cane. In that scenario a perfectly round disc that doesn't need any further finishing is preferable.

Alternatively then sloppy mortices and transition hole allow the pin to sit at a funny angle to accommodate imperfect mortices, gap fill with epoxy and then shape the outer transition and cane/handle together.

I have a feeling that wood is an insufficiently precise enough material to allow me to get this to fit together perfectly and I will end up going with sloppy fitting and shaping the glued up cane. I have turned a proof of concept of this approach. I need to refine the process somewhat as this proof of concept doesn't solve the "clamp the handle" problem, but I have a solution in mind for that. The transition for this proof of concept was very roughly shaped, which made turning it a bit of a nightmare, although doable. With that in mind, I'm aiming for "round but slightly oversized" so that the amount of material I need to remove is minimal.


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## sawdustandwax (22 Nov 2021)

just a thought but you could use an angle grinder stand with a 1mm cut-off disc to cut the brass. May take some fettling to make a hold-down etc. A mini chop saw if you like. If you use pre-drilled bar stock as already mentioned, then you drill a hole in one part of the stick, turn a tenon on the other and voila, with some sanding.


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## Nelly111s (22 Nov 2021)

Try looking at this and the two or three other related posts. James makes a mallet with a transition piece and cuts it and shapes in on a "wood" lathe. It may give some food for thought

Hashtagwoodworking


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## Jacob (22 Nov 2021)

These are good. The whole set here Starrett Universal Fast Cut Holesaw Kit 16PC KFC14| at Zoro
or you can buy an arbor and add cutters as you need them


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## Sideways (23 Nov 2021)

I was cutting up a steel tank for scrap today using an angle grinder and 5" x 1mm slitting disc. In passing, i snipped off a 25mm threaded brass pipe fitting. It cut through like butter, just 2 or 3 seconds. 25mm solid brass would have taken only a moment longer (but it is a nice grinder).


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## Tuna808 (23 Nov 2021)

Wondering how you’re fixing the bronze as a transition.
25mm washer have a thickness of about 3.4 mms.
Is it that critical that the thickness should be 5.
If you have a three jaw chuck on your wood lathe you could use a bolt or stud to clamp the together and soft solder them by sweating or silver solder with a low melting rod.
presumably the transition will probably have the be either thread or doweled in.
you could also try using a bolt ,hold it on the thread end on the chuck and make the hexagon into a circle….the thick can also be removed if you make or adapt your tool holder and use a tungsten carbide tipped tool.
These operations can be performed on a good quality drill is you get a bit creative with the clamping the drill to bench , tool holder etc
My first port of call would be to use brass which readily available and cheaper than bronze,and as already mentioned brass turns better and less messy.
secondly if the thickness is not critical to the structure and aesthetic you should use two sweated washer…. you can even epoxy them at a push..surely the focal point is not the transition piece….if it is accentuate the joint by adding a veneer or something similar.
good luck


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