# Shaping oak beam



## Andrewgray123 (17 Oct 2016)

Hey guys, I'm looking to shape a piece of 6x4 oak. I want to slightly scallop the edges, but nothing too much, and only randomly, whats the best technique to achieve this, as I've never worked with oak. 
Any suggestions on this? And how would I darken the oak without a stain? I've heard boiled linseed oil Co help, but I wanted to achieve a slightly darker look. 

Thanks 

Andy


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## marcros (17 Oct 2016)

1. draw knife.
2. fume it with ammonia. you really need a spare bit to check the colour with- you need to put some oil onto it to see the result of the fuming, but you can get a range of different colours from it, from golden to very dark brown. http://www.robertthompsons.co.uk/_shop/tables/test-11/ gives you an idea.


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## NazNomad (17 Oct 2016)

I'd shape it with an adze. Darkening, I have no idea.


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## Austinisgreat (17 Oct 2016)

Hate to say it but an angle grinder with the right disc on can be the perfect tool. We had a house many years back and wanted to make the exposed ceiling timbers look older and more rustic. Angle grinder worked v well used intermittently along the lower corners.

As to darkening oak, can't really offer advice. Have always preferred exposed timbers to be as light a colour as possible.

Good luck, HTH

Andrew


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## Woodmonkey (17 Oct 2016)

Spoke shave/ draw knife and some van dyke crystals


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## Phil Pascoe (17 Oct 2016)

As Andrew. 4 1/2" grinder with an abrasive disc. Of course it can be done with a drawknife or an adze - but is the job worth buying one for?


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## Sheffield Tony (17 Oct 2016)

Is it green or seasoned ? A drawknife on dry oak would be jolly hard work. Axe more fun.


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## otter (17 Oct 2016)

Another vote for angle grinder. Use a flap-pad for softer, more controlled and lighter detailing. Buy an Arbortech disc for more fun!


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## custard (18 Oct 2016)

Drawknife, bevel down. Tony's right, a drawknife on wet timber is like cutting cheese, but scallops are small enough that I'd still use a drawknife on kilned timber. You wont need a mask or goggles, the shavings are perfect for lighting your woodburner with a single match, and the clean up afterwards will take ten seconds with a brush as opposed to several minutes of hoovering if you use an angle grinder.

Good luck!


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## Austinisgreat (19 Oct 2016)

Depends really if you're doing it on a bench, or if it's already in the celing. If the latter, angle grinder. If on the bench, in the workshop, hand tools as Tony and Custard suggested maybe cetainly a cleaner, and quieter, option. 8) 

Cheers,

Andrew


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## Andrewgray123 (20 Oct 2016)

Thanks for the advice guys, the piece of oak i've got is from a new oak sleeper, It's not actually a supporting beam, It's for over a fireplace, so it's more of a mantel, but actually called "oak beams" in the shop. I've looked at some of the tools mentioned and seem a little bit out of my price range, had a little play around tonight on the back side of the oak with a nice sharp chissel, have managed to achieve some nice scalloped edges. so over the weekend planning on spending a bit more time on it and fully shaping the edges and then going through the grains sanding it. 

now the problem i have is the colouring... I've looked into the amonia fuming, seems a little bit out of my expertese. I've looked into boiled linseed oil, looked into danish oil... and considering wood dyes aswel.. just not too sure which of these would be the best application. 
I don't want to stain because I want the wood to show it's details more than having it masked. any more suggestions on this are welcome.

Regards

Andy


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## Andrewgray123 (23 Oct 2016)

I chose to do little shaping to the beam... I chiseled and sanded it down slightly, tidied it up and rounded the edges.. This is my end result.


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## Andrewgray123 (23 Oct 2016)

And my original beam...


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## Max Power (24 Oct 2016)

Well done , what did you end up putting on it ?


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