# Polishing Mop



## woodpig (31 Dec 2015)

I've heard about folks adding a final polish or buffing using a mop. Having just found a suitable pigtail that fits my chuck perfectly together with a barely used mop I'm thinking to try it next time, but what's the technique used?


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## gregmcateer (31 Dec 2015)

This is the method used by Chas, (CHJ on here). He has the Chestnut system and I believe was party to the development thereof, so knows his wunions;

"OK I will run through my 'standard' regime.

Sand down to 240 grit, maybe 400-600 on a very odd occasion but that is when getting in little details and not wanting to remove wood.
Apply Cellulose sanding sealer, normally diluted about 20%, just suits my application methods and I don't produce as many build up streaks as when I use it neat. Basically slap it on, wipe off the surplus after a few seconds and burnish with cotton rag.

Wait a few minutes at least for solvents to disperse, often not longer than it takes to mount the appropriate chuck and mops.

Set lathe to approx 1200 rpm, spin up first mop and apply just enough tripoli to colour mop.
Apply enough pressure to be able to feel a slight temperature rise in the wood surface and work around until any sealant streaks or raised grain blemishes have been eliminated, usually about 20-30 seconds at most for my small boxes, up to 2-3 mins. for a larger bowl..

Change to white wheel and likewise just a low loading of white diamond, once again just enough pressure to feel some warmth in the wood.

At this point you should have a high gloss finish that would fool anyone into thinking you have applied a finishing wax.

Change to final mop and apply small amount of carnauba wax to mop and go over all surfaces, with just enough pressure to melt and spread the wax, gloss level should now hit you hard.
Alternate is to wipe abraded surface with Micro crystalline wax, just the merest smear and wait 10 minutes or so for solvents to disperse and then buff.

Regarding Mop Speed, slower speeds down to 6-800 or so can be very useful for getting in nooks and crannies allowing the mop to flow in without risk of snatching piece out of the hand.

Likewise taking speed up to 1500 or so will stiffen the mop up which may be an advantage if you need to force some weaves into a particular cove or be more aggressive with the tripoli.

Fluff stuck to the piece smacks of either a rough unburnished wood form or far too much wax applied for the final session.

At all times the piece should feel slightly warm to the touch as it passes through your hands."

Chas' technique works.

HTH

Greg


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## woodpig (31 Dec 2015)

Thanks for that. Sounds like I need to get another mop or two.


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## CHJ (31 Dec 2015)

The biggest consideration to quick and easy Buffing Wheel finishing is the grade of fabric used for the wheels.
Basically Linen, Linen/Cotton blend, Soft Cotton. Wherever you acquire them from the fabric selection has the most influence on speed of process and consistency.

This ensures that the fabric has a stiffness and texture in keeping with the abrasives, (normally two).

There's a downloadable PDF Pamphlet on my server showing the above mentioned method. (formatted for double sided printing on A4)

this thread was the trigger for the pamphlet


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## woodpig (31 Dec 2015)

Thanks for that Chas. I've ordered a few bits from the Polishing Shop. They provide pretty good information about which mops to use with each compound/material so I'll have a play.


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## woodpig (7 Jan 2016)

Wood polishing kits are available here:

http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acata ... Woods.html

Bit cheaper than some other places.


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## Robbo3 (7 Jan 2016)

woodpig":3v0ab6hz said:


> Wood polishing kits are available here:
> 
> http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acata ... Woods.html
> 
> Bit cheaper than some other places.



Yes, but you must compare like with like.  

The buffing kits in the link are 4" & 6" whereas the Chestnut (& possibly the Beal) mops are 8".

I believe some professionals use even larger mops.


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## woodpig (7 Jan 2016)

The 8" mops at the Polishing Shop are only £5.88 or £6.96 each if you want them. They also sell larger ones and they all have the more common pigtail fitting. A standard 1/2" bench grinder pigtail is only £4.44 and fits in my chuck with C jaws nicely.

I should add I have no connection with the Polishing Shop, just a happy customer.


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## CHJ (7 Jan 2016)

A lot of the satisfaction/suitability of any mops wherever they are procured from is associated with what it is you intend to buff/polish.

If it's just shallow bowls, platters, spindles, pens and the like then mops mounted on pointed pigtails or long arbours between centres are fine.
If however you wish to access the internals of deep bowls, boxes or vases then a Pigtail mounted mop is not going to work.

You can't do this with a Pigtail system, you need to source or make a fixing method that allows the use of mops without hard mechanical protrusions on the face of the mop.


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## woodpig (7 Jan 2016)

CHJ":w5qmz7dl said:


> You can't do this with a Pigtail system, you need to source or make a fixing method that allows the use of mops without hard mechanical protrusions on the face of the mop.



Yes you can, they sell all kinds of mops:

http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acata ... -Mops.html

You can also buy long pigtails or extend them if needed.


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## woodpig (3 Feb 2016)

Came across this video the other day that covers the process nicely.

http://youtu.be/bEz_QgZrCi8


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## KimG (8 Feb 2016)

I made a video about using the chestnut system a year or so back, it might highlight a point or two.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPwXrHOaHCM


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## Dalboy (8 Feb 2016)

Like Chas I have been using the Chestnut system and certainly very pleased with it. I have brought a single mop elsewhere and it does not come up to the same standard of Chestnuts ones. The ones you linked to for the inside of bowls may be alright but unlike the Chestnut ones the mop does not wrap around the sides which is a plus in my eyes


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## woodpig (8 Feb 2016)

Dalboy":8xzrfx04 said:


> unlike the Chestnut ones the mop does not wrap around the sides which is a plus in my eyes


You can get that type at the Polishing shop. Try these.

http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acata ... _Mops.html

As polishing experts they're always going to have something suitable. :wink:


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## CHJ (8 Feb 2016)

With all due respect *woodpig*, you started this thread asking advice regarding buffing, members have endeavoured to point you to a method and most convenient and consistent way of producing a quick finish on a broad variety of turned forms.

One of the criteria you seem to have missed is that wherever you purchase the mops from or your preferred method of driving them, the grading of the fabric is as important as the abrasive selected.

Many of the suppliers supply mops aimed at specific processes such as metal or plastic polishing and only stock mops of a material grade to suit that particular grade of abrasive.

You can use what you like to achieve the polish but in many instances it will be like trying to finish a rough turned piece just using 240 or 320 grit abrasive. If time is of no consequence changing holding methods or persevering with less than optimum abrasion then it can be done.

Some of us have been experimenting with buffing for 6 years plus and have drawers full of various mops of different material grades and forms. 




The fact that many folks end up with a set of fabrics marketed by one of the wood turning suppliers selected to meet the needs of the average wood tuner is not a coincidence, you pays your money and makes your choice.


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## beganasatree (8 Feb 2016)

I would also recommend the Chestnut system.Looking at that photo that Chas has posted he could have been through my drawers,I should get rid and make space for something useful .

Peter.


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## woodpig (8 Feb 2016)

CHJ":fw31yo0v said:


> With all due respect woodpig, you started this thread asking advice regarding buffing, members have endeavoured to point you to a method and most convenient and consistent way of producing a quick finish on a broad variety of turned forms.



And I thank you for that. 



> One of the criteria you seem to have missed is that wherever you purchase the mops from or your preferred method of driving them, the grading of the fabric is as important as the abrasive selected.



Not sure why you would assume this as I haven't mentioned it. If you look at one of the sources of supply I linked to you can clearly see they offer a larger range of grades than those offered by Chestnut for example. 



> Many of the suppliers supply mops aimed at specific processes such as metal or plastic polishing and only stock mops of a material grade to suit that particular grade of abrasive.



The compounds and mops from specialist polishing suppliers are indeed for a range of different materials but include compounds specifically for wood. The mops as said earlier are eminently suitable. You should look at the site, especially the bit where they say *"We work with Guitar manufactuers, other wooded instrument maufacturers and Smoking pipe manufacturers".*



> You can use what you like to achieve the polish but in many instances it will be like trying to finish a rough turned piece just using 240 or 320 grit abrasive. If time is of no consequence changing holding methods or persevering with less than optimum abrasion then it can be done.



?



> Some of us have been experimenting with buffing for 6 years plus and have drawers full of various mops of different material grades and forms.
> The fact that many folks end up with a set of fabrics marketed by one of the wood turning suppliers selected to meet the needs of the average wood tuner is not a coincidence, you pays your money and makes your choice.



It's not really a coincidence Chas, it's targeted advertising and perhaps just a lack of awareness of what's out there. It's clear that you can buy the same products from any number of different suppliers at wildly different prices though.

I was just suggesting you don't need to spend a lot of money buying a proprietary system aimed specifically at turners. If folks want to pay more than they need to for what they believe is a "special" system then that is their choice. Suggesting that only Chestnut or Beall have the products to satisfy this market is clearly incorrect.

Just for clarity I have no association with the Polishing shop. Have a look at the website though as they have several more compounds and grades of mops not normally offered by Chestnut or Beall, it may be of use to you for your next special project.


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## CHJ (8 Feb 2016)

woodpig":3s9ybk8g said:


> . Have a look at the website though as they have several more compounds and grades of mops not normally offered by Chestnut or Beall, it may be of use to you for your next special project.



I don't need to, I've purchased products from them over the past 10 yrs. for metal and plastics finishing, some of which are in the above image. 

Trials and experience with the various compounds, just like learning to use the various lathe tools I acquired has taught me to go with the lowest common denominator that does the job as simply and quickly as possible.


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## Robbo3 (8 Feb 2016)

I think that the point being missed is that if you have the knowledge of all the different requirements it may be possible to save a few pounds over a conventional buffing set, but get only one variable wrong & the results may be much different or just not as good.

Buffing sets provide an established means of getting good results without having to delve into all the intracasies & possibly making the wrong choice.


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