# WIP cutting board (finished)



## Chris_belgium (19 Nov 2008)

My attempt at making a cutting board withouth a planer/thicknesser.

( For those like myself with a very short attention span, scroll down to the end, I got a question that needs to be answered)

Wanted to make a cutting board out of purpleheart and maple, but had some problems finding it locally, so I settled for Padouk and Zebrano. I was able to get the padouk planed nearly to the correct size, but the Zebrano was just rough sawn. 

As stated I do not own a planer/thicknesser or a decent table saw, funds are tight at the moment, so i have to make due (spelling??) with these two prehistoric monsters  :











First thing I did was try and get a straight edge on the piece of Zebrano, I wrecked my circular saw last month, so the jigsaw was all I had left. 







Offcourse that did not go to well due to the blade flexing






So I passed it through the router table setup for 'planing' a couple of times, wich gave me a good straight edge. 






Next problem was that the wood was 'wobbly' so messed around with a hand plane a bit until I got base of the piece of zebrano flat, so it sits stable on the table saw. Cutting on the table saw went very well for the padouk, and a bit more difficult for the zebrano, if this was due to the wood itself or maybe the facte that the zebrano was thicker, I don't know.

After I cut all my pieces, I passed them through the router to get all four side nice and flat, then I changed the setup for teh router table to the much discussed 'thicknesser' setup (see: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=27921 ) and thicknessed all the pieces to the correct size.

Small clip of the 'thicknessing', all in all after all the scary comments, it went very smooth and felt perfectly safe.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttetvreNbnE
This setup on the router table performed very well, but not perfect there were some imperfections in the wood, but these are very very shallow and will easily be sanded out.






Cutting the pieces to length, my 'made in 5 minutes' router cutter cover doubling as a stop block.







After glue up:






And now for the question, the 'planing and thicknessing' with the router table went very well and is nearly perfect except for one joint were there is a small gap. Now I have seen a podcast on the whoodwhispere where he fills an imperfection in a piece of wood with epoxy, is this normal epoxy as the one you would use with fiberglass/car body repair kit, or is this some kind of special epoxy?


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## shim20 (19 Nov 2008)

the west systems epoxy you can get mircofibers to thicken it up, but ideally you want to get the joints bang on, do you own a no5 or no7 plane?


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## wizer (19 Nov 2008)

Sorry Chris, I am not keen on your choice of woods. The combination does not look right. Zebrano is far too nice to be used as a cutting board, you will loose all of the lovely grain pattern when you turn them on their side.


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## TheTiddles (19 Nov 2008)

Whilst I appreciate you haven't got nearly the number of tools that some us have, that planing technique is likely to cause problems sooner or later. You're unlikely to hurt yourself with small pieces and enough care, but wrecking a workpiece and harpooning the cat could happen. If you haven't got the cash for a second hand plane, how come you're making a chopping board out of zebrano and padouk?

Aidan


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## Ironballs (19 Nov 2008)

I got an old ish Stanley/Bailey No 6 off ebay earlier in the year for a little over a tenner. It's no Veritas etc but set up right it planes perfectly well, try and get yourself something like that as it costs less than a decent router cutter and does the job better and more safely.

Last point, aesthetics only, those woods (as others have said) don't go together. If you like zebrano then how about a board that is edged in zebrano with timbers that are a good match for the board itself.

Not intending to gloat or anything (not skilled enough for that), but I knocked up a small chopping board from ash offcuts recently (it's in the projects section somewhere). Reason for telling you is that you can see what effects are possible from end grain on a cheap and very hard wood (so good for cutting on) and also to say that final levelling was done with a plane and random orbital sander. Have a practice with some cheap wood and hand tools and see where you get, good luck and keep posting the projects up


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## Chris_belgium (20 Nov 2008)

Thanks for the tips and criticism,

I have got a what I believe is number 4 cheap stanley plane, but haven't got the skills to work with it, contrary to what is usually the case here, I prefer power tools over hand tools  

For the choice of woods, I have to agree they don't go well together, but just bougt some wood wich I could source easily locally. It's only my third project so it's more a test piece to see how well the 'planer/thicknesser' setup on the router table works than anything else.
I hope that the endgrain combined with the food safe finish will 'Dull' the contrast a bit.

As for me killing myself on the router table, the piece is fed in from the 'wrong' side of the table, but is fed in between the cutter and the fence, so the orientation of the cut is correct in relation to the cutter rotation. Only once the cutter 'bit' into the wood, but the reason here was a skew piece of wood and due to my own fault it lost contact with the fence and hit the cutter. Other than that not problems.

So about the epoxy, car body filler epoxy won't do then?


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## MikeG. (21 Nov 2008)

Chris, 

yes, that car-filler epoxy is fine as a wood filler.........*but* will stand out as very pale against the wood colour.

I suggest that if the gap is small enough, say less than 2 or 3mm, that you mix up some of the correct species of sawdust with PVA glue and rub that into the joint..........then sand off when dry.

Incidentally,


> make due (spelling??)


 is "make do".

My only proper plane is an old unbranded No 4 or 4-1/2...............and don't let anyone tell you you need any more than that. I've been making furniture for 30 years from sawn stock with no more than this..........and I didn't even fettle it until last year. Get it really sharp, then plane, plane, and plane some more..................you will hash up a few pieces, but your skills will come on really quickly. Planing isn't actually that difficult.

If this is only your 2nd or 3rd project, it really is very early for using such woods as these..........I think you will learn more skills more quickly, and save yourself a fortune in the process, if you start with pine, then move on to ash, sycamore and beech. I suggest that you use the thicknesser set-up on the router table as an occasional last resort. It is inherantly dangerous due to the exposed cutter out in the middle of nowhere on the table................and of course, it is useless unless you have already got one straight edge and one flat face on the work already. If your planing skills are good enough to do those two, then you may as well just carry on and plane the other 2 sides!! 

Good on you for trying though!!!

Mike


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## moz (21 Nov 2008)

Hi Chris,

In your previous thread you asked for opinions regarding trapping work between cutter and fence and were, quite rightly, told in no uncertain terms by several members why this is a bad idea.

Obviously you chose to ignore all advice to the contrary, ended up with a less than perfect result and have come back to ask the same people for advice on how to fix it. Since you admit to having little experience of the forces involved when table routing in either a conventional or uncoventional sense, you should count yourself lucky that you got off so lightly. 

1. As previously mentioned, it is much more difficult to adequately guard a cutter so far from the fence.

2. 'Kickback' is always a serious danger _to be expected _and an attempt made to mitigate the consequences just in case it does happen. Just because you are feeding work in the correct direction doesn't mean it won't happen. Things go wrong for all sorts of reasons! By trapping work between cutter and fence, the result of kickback would be much more dangerous and unpredictable.

3. As you have found, any movement away from the fence results in the cutter burying itself deeper into the work. By routing conventionally (i.e. with the depth of cut set by the infeed side of the fence and the outfeed adjusted or shimmed to take up the difference), moving away from the fence would result in a shallow cut which could be cleaned up with another pass.

3. You prefer power tools to hand tools. Personally, I prefer the right tools to the wrong tools. I have every machine and power tool at my disposal but, if I want the very best joint of this type, there is no alternative to getting out the handplane. My machine planer is very well set up and, for most classes of work, I can glue up joints straight from the machine. However, if you consider the action of a machine planer, the surface will always be minutely scalloped. That is with an 88mm cutting radius, in my case. Imagine the effect with a 12mm router cutter. Moreover, I make the decision to glue up machined joints because I am aiming to save time. This point seems to be lost if you start faffing around with some Heath Robinson effort which is clearly going to take longer than a few wipes with a handplane - and you have to add on the time spent trying to repair mistakes like the one already suffered. 

I don't pretend to know everything about woodworking but I like to think I have the humility to listen to and act upon good advice from those more experienced than me and I think that would be a good quality to develop if you intend to continue to ask for advice on an internet forum. 

I'm sorry if this comes across as a rant but I would not wish anyone coming across this thread to be left in any doubt that this solution to the problem of obtaining a straight edge on a piece of wood is one borne out of ignorance and is a very, very stupid thing to do. 

John


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## dennis (21 Nov 2008)

I must say that if Chris did not have a cutter protector, featherboards or a push block I would agree that this is a stupid thing to do, but as he uses all these I cannot see any real safety issues providing as with all power tools care is taken. It is a solution to thicknessing with limited resources.
Regarding the ripple effect of planing, surely you get a smoother finish with a small diameter cutter at high revolutions and slower feed rate than a larger diameter cutter at lower revolutions and faster feed rate.

Dennis


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## moz (22 Nov 2008)

"Regarding the ripple effect of planing, surely you get a smoother finish with a small diameter cutter at high revolutions and slower feed rate than a larger diameter cutter at lower revolutions and faster feed rate."

Surely?

Draw an 88mm circle then draw a 12mm circle - taking a section of each of equal depth, which is closer to being flat, i.e. "smoother"? This problem of geometry also results in a sharper exit angle of the router cutter which only encourages tearout in unco-operative grain. 

Lower revolutions? It's the periphery speed which counts - no contest there either.

Limited resources is hardly the point since others have pointed out that a good handplane can be obtained for a few quid; probably less than the replacement cost of the cutter which will eventually and inevitably break. It will also, in sharp condition, produce the very best gluing surface bar none. I'm afraid it's the just the familiar scenario of the novice showing more faith in some gizmo, any gizmo however mad, rather than his/her own ability to learn some straightforward skills. Eventually the penny drops one hopes. 

If you still think you're right and I'm wrong, go ahead, don't let me stop you. I've done my best.


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## Chris_belgium (22 Nov 2008)

moz":38ltnw5x said:


> I'm afraid it's the just the familiar scenario of the novice showing more faith in some gizmo, any gizmo however mad, rather than his/her own ability to learn some straightforward skills. Eventually the penny drops one hopes.



Point taken, I am 100% guilty here. 



moz":38ltnw5x said:


> In your previous thread you asked for opinions regarding trapping work between cutter and fence and were, quite rightly, told in no uncertain terms by several members why this is a bad idea.



In that same thread there were also several people who out of personal experience mentioned that it could be done when taking several safety measures, so I followed their advice. The setup will surely not achieve the same finish as a planer (thanks for the explanation on the cutter diameter in relation to a better planing finish), but IMHO it is as safe as using the router table in the normal setup.

So after reading your post, can I conclude that I need a 100 mm cutter in my router and then my router table 'planing & thickessing' setup will work flawlessly?? :twisted: :twisted:



moz":38ltnw5x said:


> If you still think you're right and I'm wrong, go ahead, don't let me stop you. I've done my best.



And thank you for that  again IMHO I feel te setup as being as safe as normal routing on the table. But the results achieved with this are far from perfect. So I will leave this idea in the 'tried, tested and failed' section of my mind.


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## dennis (22 Nov 2008)

Moz,

I would say that there is a contest between peripheral speed and rpm when taking feed rate into account. Granted at the same rpm a larger diameter cutter will have a faster peripheral speed than a smaller cutter and at the same feed rate will give a smoother finish due to the flatter arc. But I think that a small diameter cutter running at much higher rpm and slower feed rate, therefore hitting the wood more times per inch than a larger diameter cutter at faster feed rates,would give a smoother finish.Like comparing a dovetail saw blade with a rip saw blade,which is smoother?

I would be interested to know why you say that it is inevitable that the cutter will break in this application, as the cutter protector minimises the depth of cut. If it is a half inch collet router there is also much less chance of the cutter breaking.

Dennis


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## moz (22 Nov 2008)

I'm sorry Dennis but I don't understand your point. You seem to be making a comparison between slow feed speed on the router versus fast feed speed on the planer. Why not a slow feed speed on the planer to truly compare like with like. Also, too slow a feed speed will burn a router cutter and the work far easier than with a planer . But the exit angle is probably the more serious issue. Even a small rebate cut with a spindle moulder is invariably cleaner than the same done with a router cutter, partly because of the higher peripheral speed but also partly because of the gentler arc. 

The cutter will break because you will eventually run out of luck. On this very forum I am sure you will find much advice on using a table saw, which is exactly the same principle, and that, particularly when cutting solid wood, the fence should not extend more than about an inch beyond the cutting edge of the blade; you never trap wood between fence and blade. Why do you think this is any different? In fact it could be worse in many circumstances. Sure, it will not be lifted by the back end of a saw blade but a router cutter is cutting all the way around. The point is that it is neither safe nor efficient and I am glad that Chris will probably turn to less creative and safer options next time around. 

Echoing others' comments about choice of timber, padouk is an absolute pig to work and I have also found the colour can bleed onto any adjacent, lighter woods when a finish is applied. Chris, you obviously enjoy a challenge but try some ash if you're feeling discouraged.

John


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## Chris_belgium (22 Nov 2008)

moz":1q51ro78 said:


> the fence should not extend more than about an inch beyond the cutting edge of the blade; you never trap wood between fence and blade.
> 
> John



This I don't fully understand, how do you mean 'the fence should not extend more than an inch............' the fence on a table saw extends a lot longer than an inch, or am I seeing it wrong?

About the padouk being very hard to work, I had little problems with it, even with my limited planing skill I manage to get full length shavings with a hand plane, the Zebrano on the other hand was absolutely terrible, tried every orientation but didn't manage to get one decent shaving. The padouk is very irritating to the nostrils when planing or sawing tough!!


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## joiner_sim (22 Nov 2008)

:arrow: I've been reading this thread since it started. I didn't make any comments, as I wanted to see how the work progressed. I did feel when looking and reading the methods, that there was an element of danger in the way the timber was being used.

Just remember that if something could go wrong, it probably will. Stay safe!


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## dennis (22 Nov 2008)

Moz

We are not comparing like for like, as a thicknesser is the machine designed for this application. I mentioned feed rate as I have only come across thicknessers with single or dual speed, and as you correctly say, too slow a feed rate with a router creates burn. You mentioned the ripple effect of a 88mm cutter block, and said,[imagine the effect with a 12mm cutter]. I am pointing out that you can get a comparable finish with a small diameter cutter.

Due to the use of a cutter protector, and therefore minimal cutter projection and minimal cut and featherboards I do not accept that it is inevitable that the cutter will break. Admittedly it is possible, just as it is possible for hundreds of other unfortunate things to happen with power tools and machines.


Dennis


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## MikeG. (22 Nov 2008)

Chris_belgium":q3tjsuj9 said:


> And thank you for that  again IMHO I feel te setup as being as safe as normal routing on the table.



Chris, 

you have received some quite harsh words and I commend you on your calm reaction. 

I was one of those that posted to say that I have done this, and as I have said a number of times......whilst it can be done, it is never as safe as the normal set up. With the normal set-up, if something goes wrong the work will be pushed off the fence and away from the cutter. With this arrangement, there is nowhere for anything to go in the event of a problem. Add that to the isolated cutter, and this is inherently less safe than the orthodox method. You have mitigated the danger to an extent, but not eliminated it. I would hate you to approach this set up with anything other than the utmost caution.

So, I return to my earlier suggestions...........start with pine, then ash beech and sycamore. Sharpen up a plane and do lots of planing. There is a whole lot of nonsense talked about planing, and it is a relatively easy skill to pick up. I guarantee that in a few weeks time you will wonder why you bothered with this router table arrangement. But....

.......don't forget this technique. One day, when you have really got to grips with woodworking and all your tools, you might just have an occasion to return to it for some strange job that can't be done any other way.

Mike


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## moz (22 Nov 2008)

OK Dennis,

A router gives a comparable finish to a handplane or well set up machine planer. Fine.

You can lead a horse to water.


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## MikeG. (22 Nov 2008)

Moz,

this is a very tolerant place! People don't agree on everything, and bring all sorts of different experiences and views to the party......

You will be a very frustrated person if you try and convert everyone to your viewpoint every time. My own view is that 6 postings is a bit sooner than most to be resorting to sarcasm. 

Mike


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## Ironballs (22 Nov 2008)

Good point Mike


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## moz (23 Nov 2008)

Mike,

Not frustrated nor sarcastic. Just agreeing to differ with Dennis's theoretical, non-real world view which he is clearly wedded to. I didn't realise there was a waiting period to serve before firmness was acceptable. As a matter of fact I was very active on this forum in the very early days of 2000/2001 when it was a much smaller affair, before the majority here had even heard of it. I don't remember you. So perhaps I should get all shirty because a relative newby is giving me etiquette lessons? Other pressures have prevented posting since then but I have kept an eye on things so I am well aware of the sensitive nature of many members. The emoticons amuse me, lest anyone should take offence from any ambiguity. As a pretty experienced wood machinist, I thought I would give it a shot to see if I could help throw light on the subject, maybe learn something from someone else. It's fascinating how these forums always seem to go the same way eventually. I won't bother again.


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## Chris_belgium (23 Nov 2008)

joiner_sim":eot5paun said:


> :arrow: I've been reading this thread since it started. I didn't make any comments, as I wanted to see how the work progressed. I did feel when looking and reading the methods, that there was an element of danger in the way the timber was being used.
> 
> Just remember that if something could go wrong, it probably will. Stay safe!



Then we should all just spend our live on the sofa watching TV  but then again we'd risk a hearth attack, wouldn't we  

Just joking, your and other peoples point about the danger is well taken, and I will not use the setup again.


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## Chris_belgium (23 Nov 2008)

Chris_belgium":2bget0hu said:


> moz":2bget0hu said:
> 
> 
> > the fence should not extend more than about an inch beyond the cutting edge of the blade; you never trap wood between fence and blade.
> ...



If someone could explain to me what is meant by this, it would be greatly appreciated!


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## Chris_belgium (23 Nov 2008)

Mike Garnham":1h0863cy said:


> Chris_belgium":1h0863cy said:
> 
> 
> > And thank you for that  again IMHO I feel te setup as being as safe as normal routing on the table.
> ...



I don't mind harsh comments at all from experienced people, I even welcome them, I do however get 'agitated' with comments like 'get yourself a toy work bench' or 'you'd have to be a total numpty to try this', comments like this add nothing, so when you have nothing constructive to say, just say nothing  , that's my opinion.

I'm on a couple of other motorcycle related forums also, and there you really have to weed through stupid comments like that to find the advice/answers you are looking for, quite frustrating and I hope that this forum is not gonna go down the same road.


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## woodbloke (23 Nov 2008)

Interesting thread, and one that I've been following. Some really excellent advice from Moz and Mike G, well worth taking on board. I would comment on your shop set up though...the saw blade is shown unguarded and there is a *huge* amount of trailing cables in your shop...one of my pet hates :evil: There's an accident here waiting to happen - Rob


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## Jake (23 Nov 2008)

Chris_belgium":30njy30s said:


> Chris_belgium":30njy30s said:
> 
> 
> > moz":30njy30s said:
> ...



Have a read of this sensible advice on safe working practice with the tablesaw, and note where the the end of the fence is in relation to the blade. They don't expressly mention it in the text for some reason, but it is a safety requirement at least with solid timber rather than panel products.

Richard Jones (Sgian Dubh) wrote an article which explains the reasons well, but I can't find the link.


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## Chris_belgium (23 Nov 2008)

woodbloke":2vr96de6 said:


> Interesting thread, and one that I've been following. Some really excellent advice from Moz and Mike G, well worth taking on board. I would comment on your shop set up though...the saw blade is shown unguarded and there is a *huge* amount of trailing cables in your shop...one of my pet hates :evil: There's an accident here waiting to happen - Rob



What's next? The sky is gonna fall on my head, so I need to wear a safety helmet in my own shop  Just joking, you UK people and your HSE are crazy with all your rules and safety. I work as a commercial diver and have worked a lot in the UK, it's nearly impossible to do any work in the UK with all the safety rules! How companies still manage to make any profit, I don't know :twisted: But this is a bit too far of topic!


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## Chris_belgium (23 Nov 2008)

Ok, on to problem # 412 :twisted: 

Made a bit of progress,glued everything up, sanded it with a Random Orbit Sander, got it nice and flat. I came back to it the next day and this is what I found  















The wood was bought 'kiln' dried and then spent a month in my living room for extra drying. I have put all the pieces back in to my living room when not working on it. Is it the big temp difference between my shop and my living room that causes this? 

I don't give up easily, but am about ready to throw this in the fireplace and buy my mom some flowers for christmas!


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## Chris_belgium (23 Nov 2008)

Jake":2p4lgmw6 said:


> Chris_belgium":2p4lgmw6 said:
> 
> 
> > Chris_belgium":2p4lgmw6 said:
> ...



Thank you, didn't know this, will keep this in mind next time working on the table saw.


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## woodbloke (23 Nov 2008)

Chris_belgium":1b2i3k89 said:


> woodbloke":1b2i3k89 said:
> 
> 
> > Interesting thread, and one that I've been following. Some really excellent advice from Moz and Mike G, well worth taking on board. I would comment on your shop set up though...the saw blade is shown unguarded and there is a *huge* amount of trailing cables in your shop...one of my pet hates :evil: There's an accident here waiting to happen - Rob
> ...



No... just, just an observation. There are no H&S rules that apply to an individual (as far as I'm aware) in his or her 'shop at home. It just makes sense to me to ensure that the working environment is as safe as it can be and that there are no undue risks that can *easily* be avoided. I'm certain that in your job H&S is *not* one of the areas that's sidestepped...so why do it at home? At the end of the day, whether you trip and fall on the spinning saw blade is of no concern to me...you've been warned  - Rob


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## joiner_sim (23 Nov 2008)

Back to the original topic.......

As I said earlier, was watching this topic, to see how it progressed. And I must say that I actually like that chopping board with the different timbers. Probably wouldn't have it in my house, but i do like it!
As for the problem you've got now, with the board cupping....
I don't know how to remedy this now it is glued up.
But..... I can give some light on how it should have been glued up...

Firstly.... the different strips should have been glued up like so:

(
)
(
)
That would be looking from the end of the end grains. If you didn't glue up like this, then thats why your board has cupped.


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## Chris_belgium (24 Nov 2008)

If I leave it for a month or so and then plane is flat again, will the board cup again?


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## joiner_sim (24 Nov 2008)

I guess it would. Its all to do with how the boards were glued as the curve of the grain would be the way of the cupping. And if the boards were all glued up like:
)
)
)
)
you can imagine how badly it would cup.

I'm sorry can't really suggest anything.


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## MikeG. (25 Nov 2008)

It would be easy enough to slice it up again and re-glue, with the grain arranged correctly.


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## ddashk (25 Nov 2008)

but the board has endgrain facing up so surely cupping in the normal sense wouldn't happen


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## wizer (25 Nov 2008)

I think it's an error in the clamping during glue up.


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## Doug B (25 Nov 2008)

Years ago we had a butchers block type chopping board (end grain up) in a frame & that never stopped moving in all the time we had it.
All we used to do was turn it over in its frame & it would move the opposite way.


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## MikeG. (25 Nov 2008)

Chris,

you could try damping it slightly, then raising the 4 "down" corners on some ply packers (say 6mm), then clamping it in the middle.......so as to overbend it past the flat. Leave it to dry clamped like this for a week or so.

It may work (it did for a blanket box lid I made recently).......but I don't know anything about the timbers. They may just be inherantly unstable.

Mike


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## eggflan (26 Nov 2008)

Having just sat and read this thread i belive that Chris has taken some rather harsh words and taken them squarley on the chin :shock: We all need help and advice every now and then but i think the way moz put his views were a little harsh and just because he used to use this site before makes no odds :shock: 

As for the type of wood used for this project ,, well it would not have been my choice however apart from the cupping i think it looks rather attractive and certainly different , which is what its all about sometimes   8) 

Well done Chris keep it up :wink: :wink:


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## CWatters (26 Nov 2008)

Is it a case of the glue making the timber wet and one side drying faster than the other?


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## dennis (26 Nov 2008)

Even though I did not agree with all of the comments that Moz made on this topic, they were a lot more constructive than some that others made.
I hope that he does not let a couple of negative comments about his posts get to him, and that he continues being an active member of the forum.

As Dan Tovey pointed out about someone elses comments.[because it is 
an internet forum]

Dennis


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## moz (27 Nov 2008)

Thanks very much Dennis,

Of course, the point is, were Chris to wander into your workshop and ask for advice, do you:

A. congratulate him on his choice of a breadboard as a first hardwood project as an excellent vehicle for learning how to prepare and use a plane, preparing timber by hand and thereby developing a set of skills with universal application to every single project he will encounter for the rest of his life, not to mention introducing him to one of the pleasures of life; or:

B. encourage him down a path most fear to tread with only second rate results in sight just to bash the job out without having to learn much nor break into a sweat; or:

C. stand around going, "Ooh, Err, that Moz e's a bit harsh isn't he".

Anyway, ddashk and wizer have summed it up. It's end grain so I can't see that board orientation has produced this effect. It probably is a clamping error. However Chris, and although it may sound a daft question, did you check that the edges were square before gluing up!? This is essential, with any discrepancies corrected before joining. I'm a little unclear about how you squared up the edges after ripping the glued up board into strips but before re-gluing into its present state. Did you return the pieces to the 'router thicknesser'? I won't go on about that again (you know how I feel) but using feather boards to press the work tightly against the fence could work for or against accuracy - are the reference face and edge square to each other to start with? (and if so, how on earth have you achieved this?) Is the fence square to the table? If not, the board could be distorted/lifted with unpredictable results. Is the cutter square to the table? If you used a table saw, is the blade sqaure to the table? Nothing can be taken for granted. I know you must feel disappointed but don't bin it just yet.

John


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## joiner_sim (27 Nov 2008)

I had looked at the board for a while. And I couldn't believe it had been glued up like this, but now others have confirmed it, it really is end grain facing up. 

Now I don't know if this is just me. But surely, this should have been glued together the other way? Face side up not end grain? IMHO The board would not have cupped it the board had been glued the other way and with the ring patterns alternating. I don't think the board would be very strong this way around????


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## bobscarle (28 Nov 2008)

Sim

Chopping boards and for that matter, butchers blocks, have traditionally been made with the cutting surface showing end grain. I know it is easier on the knives but there are probably a lot more reasons.

I like the board! I like the woods, the colours and the contrast between them and also Chris has not used squares. Using rectangles has created a different pattern to that normally seen. Yes, I do like it!

I am with a number of the others on the cupping issue. I would guess that this is due to a clamping problem, possibly applying too much pressure in order to close gaps up. I can only guess because I have never done this myself :^o .

Bob


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## Ironballs (28 Nov 2008)

I made a chopping board recently and that was all end grain up, however it was made of 45mm deep pieces so the chances of them cupping were slim. As a few have suggested, it can be easy to introduce a curve when clamping up thinner material if you aren't expecting it. I have a lid for a box currently in clamps that was glued up carefully to apply just the right amount of pressure, but I still pressed it down onto a flat surface and put a bit of weight on top to show it who's boss.

All part of the trial and error Chris, you've probably learnt a huge amount from this project that you wouldn't have done if you'd followed some step by step instructions and not had to think for yourself. Though you might have had a flat board


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## joiner_sim (28 Nov 2008)

I think chris has left the forum, because he ain't posted recently. I;m guessing mainly because of the criticism concerning the safety....?


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## MikeG. (28 Nov 2008)

joiner_sim":21fk9f5q said:


> I think chris has left the forum, because he ain't posted recently. I;m guessing mainly because of the criticism concerning the safety....?



If this is so, it is a real pity, and a lesson about how we "speak" to each other. If anyone knows him, could they let him know that we would welcome him back and that most on here are pretty decent folk.

Mike


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## joiner_sim (28 Nov 2008)

Mike Garnham":3cp06ed7 said:


> joiner_sim":3cp06ed7 said:
> 
> 
> > I think chris has left the forum, because he ain't posted recently. I;m guessing mainly because of the criticism concerning the safety....?
> ...



Exactly my thoughts, I find this forum quite friendly and very helpful. It is now my regular daily spot to go on the computer.

I must say, I remember when i first joined. I posted a couple of pictures/ or my website, I can't remember. And some-one actually replied quite nastily, but I do also remember that they PM'ed me shortly afterwards apoligising.


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## Benchwayze (12 Dec 2008)

SWIMBO had an endgrain chopping board (She insulted me by purchasing from the new market in Swindon!)

After using it to fillet fish she scrubbed it. 
She then had a bright idea! :idea: 
She put it in a cooling oven to dry. #-o 
Of course the board cupped and even opened up joints. :lol: 

I reglued, clamped it lightly and then cleaned it up while glue was still wet.

All I did to remove the cupping was soak the convex side well and leave it in the kithen to dry out naturally for a few days. A skim with a block plane on each side and a result!  

Maybe we were lucky?


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## Chris_belgium (17 Dec 2008)

joiner_sim":227a5940 said:


> I think chris has left the forum, because he ain't posted recently. I;m guessing mainly because of the criticism concerning the safety....?



Not at all, I still have million questions in me about woodworking that needs answering!  

Was at sea for three weeks on a barge with a very slow internet connection so no surfing only the occasional checking of emails was allowed.


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## Chris_belgium (17 Dec 2008)

I have read all the answers you guys gave me and I think it's a combination of mulitple little errors that created the cupping. 

I'll plane it flat one last time and if it cups again then it's of to the flower guy and by my mom some flowers for christmas instead of a cutting board!


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## Chris_belgium (28 Dec 2008)

Finished, I'm a bit reluctant to post it, seeing all the perfect cutting boards on this forum lately, but I like it even touhg it's far from perfect. It still has the bow, but it doesn't wobble when put on a table, so it'll do. Had a lot of fun making this and learned load's mostly thanks to you guys with all the advice I got! Thanks!


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## Benchwayze (28 Dec 2008)

Can't see any wobble from here!
That's quite a nice cutting board. Unusual choice of timbers, but striking in its way. 
=D> =D> =D>


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## MikeG. (28 Dec 2008)

Well, I reckon that is gorgeous!

If it is for you, you'll have something to be proud of for years........if for someone else then you will have earned loads of brownie points.

My only comment would be on the block sizes.........I wonder if an easier pattern might have shown off the bold wood to even greater effect?

Anyway, wonderful! Hope you've caught the bug and I look forward to your next project!!

Mike


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## Karl (28 Dec 2008)

I like the wood colours - wasn't sure at the beginning of the thread, but I reckon they look quite good.

Cheers

Karl


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## joiner_sim (1 Jan 2009)

Its looks finished off to a very high standard! Well done Chris! Good luck on the next project!


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## wizer (1 Jan 2009)

yes it's come out much nicer than I thought it was going to. I still think you're barmy using zebrano for a cutting board. But well done. Very interesting piece.


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