# Handle for Long Hole Boring auger



## Random Orbital Bob (23 Apr 2014)

I'm new to making handles in general, I've done a couple for perfectly spherical steel but I wanted to start turning lamps so recently acquired a long hole boring kit with a hollow centre. The auger that came with it allows you to bore out a hole with a bore capable of taking the electrical flex. However, it comes without a handle and I need to make one. The tang is a design I've not come across before. Like a devils tail, basically a diamond on the end of the steel. Like I said, I have zip experience so was hoping for some guidance as to the method for housing this beast. I do have tons of Ash so material is no problem. I'll go take a snap post it up in a tick so you can see the tang design. The tool steel is 5/8" in diameter from memory. Any help always appreciated.


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## Deejay (23 Apr 2014)

Morning Bob

This might help ...

best-way-to-fit-a-handle-t79287.html

Cheers

Dave


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## Vic Perrin (23 Apr 2014)

Hi Bob, I brought the long hole borer a few years back and just turned a 6" handle about 1 1/2" diam out of a off cut of oak. I just drilled a hole down the centre the same diam as the max diam of the tang. I then used some epoxy resin to secure the handle. I didn't use a ferrule and I have used it loads of times for making lamps and have had no problems whatsoever over the years.
When you use it just go in a little way at a time cleaning out your cuttings on a regular basis, you may find it a bit awkward at first but once you get used to the cutting position of the borer they cut well. Remember to cut the hole about half way and then turn the piece around and go from the other end, this helps to keep the bored hole straight.

Vic


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## Phil Pascoe (23 Apr 2014)

Bob - 5/16th?


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 Apr 2014)

ah..thanks chaps. I've just come in having snapped it and here it is:










So you reckon I should drill the handle to the diameter of the widest part of the tang and then epoxy?


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 Apr 2014)

phil.p":3qhlynw9 said:


> Bob - 5/16th?


 Not sure Phil....you might be right, I haven't actually measured it yet. Is that the standard then?


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## Spindle (23 Apr 2014)

Hi

The easiest way is to grind off the 'wings' so as the tang is the same width as the tool diameter






Fit the tool into the handle using epoxy to prevent rotation in use

Mark the handle in some way so as you know which way is up, (ie the tool waste clearance flute upper most).

Is that the RP set you've bought? better choice than the type with spiral flutes, waste clearance is easier  

Regards Mick


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## Woodmonkey (23 Apr 2014)

I have a similar one which I epoxied in as other people have said. After using it quite a bit it became loose so I drilled through the handle and tang and epoxied a pin through both.


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 Apr 2014)

Nice. That's great thanks guys. I will grind off the wings Mick. Like the locking pin approach too

It is the record set yes. Got another question re the cutting end also but need to get some work done now. Back later. Thanks again guys


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## Phil Pascoe (23 Apr 2014)

+1 for grinding the wings off. I suspect mine is glued with either PVA or Pu - doesn't seem to matter.


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## paulm (23 Apr 2014)

The wings will stop it rotating in use in the handle I would think.

Better to drill a hole in the handle to the diameter, or just under, the diameter of the main shaft, then heat the winged end nice and hot with a blow torch or similar and burn it in to the hole in the handle ?

Cheers, Paul


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## Tazmaniandevil (23 Apr 2014)

That looks very like the Marples tool I got with my Myford lathe. I couldn't find any information on how to go about sharpening the tool. In the end, I cut it off and welded on a drill bit instead.
I did keep the fluted part, so I can always weld it back on again later I suppose.


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## Spindle (23 Apr 2014)

paulm":1wzqncbk said:


> The wings will stop it rotating in use in the handle I would think.



Hi

The four flats remaining after the wings have been ground off are more than sufficient to prevent rotation if epoxy is used during assembly, plus the hole in the handle can be matched exactly to the tool size which again adds support and integrity.

Regards Mick


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## Grahamshed (23 Apr 2014)

Just as an off the wall idea Bob.
How about grinding off the wings and then drilling out the handle slightly oversized so that the bit will go all the way through it. You could then use a grub screw type thing to hold it tight but be able to slide the handle further up the bit to give less flex as you start to push it through.....


Does that make any sense at all ?


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## Spindle (23 Apr 2014)

Grahamshed":1p4p1ig6 said:


> drilling out the handle slightly oversized so that the bit will go all the way through it. You could then use a grub screw type thing to hold it tight but be able to slide the handle further up the bit to give less flex as you start to push it through.....



Hi

It's a novel suggestion however the following should also be taken into consideration:

Drilling the handle oversized will allow the handle to move radially relative to the tool - positive location will be lost.
The tool is guided by the tail stock and hollow tail centre - there will be no appreciable flex
Very little pressure should be required to get the tool to cut - there will be no appreciable flex
You will need to incorporate a metal collar into the handle in which to locate a grub screw
A grub screw will not lock as efficiently as an epoxied joint, (as described above).

Regards Mick


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## Vic Perrin (23 Apr 2014)

Bob, just had a look at mine as it has been a while since I used it. I actually fitted my handle to form a T shape with the boring bar which was as suggested by Record who supplied it. The T gives you better grip and control

Vic


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## paulm (23 Apr 2014)

Spindle":1knqid5t said:


> paulm":1knqid5t said:
> 
> 
> > The wings will stop it rotating in use in the handle I would think.
> ...



The grind and epoxy route may work fine, although one chap has indicated it didn't, the point is that these and similar types of tools that needed handling were used long before epoxy was available and the method described is the traditional approach as I understand it, and the reason for the shaped end of the tool I believe. 

It is also likely to be quite effective as a method as it has been in use for a very long time and presumably still intended to be so given the way the handle end is still shaped today. 

It doesn't mean that another method may not be effective too just that, in my opinion, it seems odd and unnecessary to grind off the very feature designed in for stability, and then to have to add another material in the form of epoxy to mitigate the problem you have just created for yourself, to bring you somewhere near back to where you started from !

Anyway, each to their own I guess 

Look forwards to seeing the lamp when done Rob !

Cheers, Paul


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## woodfarmer (23 Apr 2014)

paulm":3saxv3yd said:


> Spindle":3saxv3yd said:
> 
> 
> > paulm":3saxv3yd said:
> ...



I am inclined to agree with you. Think the wings will cut a straight thread down through as you press the tool shaft up through the handle.


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## Spindle (23 Apr 2014)

Hi Paul

I would counter:

That the wings are a product of 'ease of production', flattening the end of the tool produces that profile.
The advent of modern adhesives needs to be considered - they can, and do, exceed the capabilities of earlier methods of retention.
Burning a recess destroys the integrity of the surrounding material.

Whilst tradition has it's place we need to embrace change where it is beneficial - but as you say, each to his own.

Regards Mick


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## Woodmonkey (23 Apr 2014)

I don't see whats wrong with leaving the wings on AND epoxying it in, belt and braces approach. Can't see any advantage of removing the wings myself.


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## Spindle (23 Apr 2014)

Woodmonkey":2an0ym1g said:


> Can't see any advantage of removing the wings myself.



Hi

Removing the wings allows you to drill the handle to the same diameter as the tool, it also facilitates the installation of the tool into the handle, (no need for force / burning etc.). Therefore you end up with a tool and handle well mated.

Regards Mick


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## swb58 (23 Apr 2014)

I'm surprised someone hasn't mentioned Red Bull yet :wink: 

Yes cut the wings off and mount in a handle and it'll probably be ok if you've done a half decent job. But the wings weren't put there for nothing, something to do with rotational forces I would imagine.


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 Apr 2014)

Well...thanks for the input all. I have in fact already used it once on my first ever lamp. The rotational forces were considerable. So much so that I ended up clamping the tang and held the clamp like a lever to prevent it from turning in the cut. So a strategy to prevent it from turning is high on the agenda. I'm inclined to think that that's maybe why the wings were used in its manufacture having read all the comments. Perhaps the belt and braces approach is right given that experience ie epoxy and retain the wings?? 

I have little experience with epoxy Mick so I'm not familiar with its strength. What Epoxy should I buy? Is there a favourite brand people trust and recommend?


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## Vic Perrin (23 Apr 2014)

Bob this is a photo of the one I have been using for the past 5 years. Nothing technical about it rather crude really but believe me it does the job.

Having the handle in T form reduces the rotational forces to virtually zero.

Wings left on as from the manufacturer, small hole drilled in handle and thumped onto tang.

Forget all the technical bumph that has been posted. Not the nicest looking tool I have made but believe me it works fine

The c/b up marked on the Handel shows me that the cutting part of the borer is in the up position

Vic


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## Spindle (23 Apr 2014)

Hi Bob

From what you say I assume you tried to use the tool unhandled.

I have a handle of about 30mm diameter on mine and it is more than sufficient in my opinion, it takes no more than light pressure, (thumb and two fingers), to prevent it rotating. Starting the cut requires a bit more pressure but once initiated you can reduce the force and let the tool take it's course. Clearing the waste regularly is important and hence why you need to know where the flute is.
With regard to epoxy - in this case any type will be fine, you can assure a better joint by warming the tool to about 60 degrees, (hot in the hand), before insertion into the epoxied handle.

Regards Mick


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 Apr 2014)

Spindle":3v8yigjl said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> From what you say I assume you tried to use the tool unhandled.
> 
> ...


 Hi Mick

It was unhandled yes....my turning club had a lamp turning competition so I had to get it done fast and was out of time so I just wacked it in and hoped for the best. I couldn't hold it free hand as it was such a tight fit the rotation of the lamp body would wrench it out of my grasp...hence the use of the clamp on the tang to counter that force in the end. Actually, Vic's idea of a T handled approach is appealing because that's essentially what I was doing with the clamp. The only thing that slightly jangles with the advice is that you're saying it goes in easy? My lamp was an old piece of down in the 1987 storms oak and it was bloody hard I must admit. I had to really push the auger to get it to cut at all and I was careful to remove the swarf. I must say I have my doubts about the cutting end. It is essentially a wide flute with an enclosed end. It doesn't look sharp, it doesn't feel sharp and I wondered when I saw it if its just a manufacturing defect from the casting process? Is yours an open flute or does it have these little metal wings in the semi-circle of the flute? I'll get a snap or 2 and post them up.


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 Apr 2014)

Vic Perrin":2lcxgk5i said:


> Bob this is a photo of the one I have been using for the past 5 years. Nothing technical about it rather crude really but believe me it does the job.
> 
> Having the handle in T form reduces the rotational forces to virtually zero.
> 
> ...


That looks a great design Vic....quite possibly the best of all worlds because I can keep the tang, use epoxy and have the extra side leverage of that design. Also, I wouldn't need to thump the stem down a really long hole.


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## Vic Perrin (23 Apr 2014)

Random Orbital Bob":3w06qcfn said:


> Spindle":3w06qcfn said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Bob
> ...



Bob the little flute is part of the cutting design although it looks as though it is a defect it is in fact the cutting part of the tool don't remove it at any cost as it will ruin the tool. When I first used mine I thought it was naff but once you have had a couple of goes and start to feel the bite of the tool you will find it gets easier to use.

Vic


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 Apr 2014)

Thanks Vic....is it possible to sharpen it dya reckon?


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## Vic Perrin (23 Apr 2014)

Random Orbital Bob":812z65f1 said:


> Thanks Vic....is it possible to sharpen it dya reckon?



Bob, not sure but I have never sharpened mine in 5 years and it still cuts well after 20 or more lamps up to 24" long.

Remember, find the bite of the cutter, apply some pressure and keep pulling right out so as to clear the cuttings. My first couple of attempts were painful to say the least but once I got the knack it was easy even in some hard woods, little cuts and plenty of clearing is the key in my opinion.

Vic

PS, have a look on the Record Power web site if I remember rightly there is some information on sharpening the tool.


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## Spindle (23 Apr 2014)

Hi Bob

I'll get a photo of my borer's tip if it will help, but you should not need to use much force to get the cut to initiate.

A 'T' handle may seem like the best solution but in my experience it would be less than optimal - ergonomically it is better for me to hold a cylindrical shaped handle than a 'T' shaped one when working from the tailstock. This of course, is dependant on how your lathe is situated.

Regards Mick


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 Apr 2014)

That's a good point actually Mick and may influence the choice. My tailstock is awkward to get at (I cant walk round it as its currently situated) and I was reaching to get the end of the auger into the hollow centre. That might be why I'm hedging towards the T idea. I can use that side on which was how I was using it with the clamp.


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## Vic Perrin (23 Apr 2014)

Bob have a look at this link

http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=1109

Vic


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## Phil Pascoe (23 Apr 2014)

I'd have thought a "T" handle would give you one hell of a jolt when the bit caught.


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 Apr 2014)

Thanks Vic
Here's a couple of close-ups of the shell auger tip. I guess its not incorrectly designed after all the input. I've just not seen this design before.


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## Vic Perrin (23 Apr 2014)

Random Orbital Bob":1zchwt98 said:


> Thanks Vic
> Here's a couple of close-ups of the shell auger tip. I guess its not incorrectly designed after all the input. I've just not seen this design before.



That's how they look Bob

Vic


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 Apr 2014)

Thanks Vic


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## Dalboy (23 Apr 2014)

Make the handle in two parts carve out both halves to the shape of the tang. Glue this together with a paper joint and then turn, remove from lathe split in half and clean the mating faces. Finally glue the two halves of the handle to the tang. Remember to make a mortice to take a feral(spelling) which when fitted will help strengthen the join.

That looks like the one I have supplied by Record power tools


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## Random Orbital Bob (23 Apr 2014)

It is the record kit Dal......as seen in this Alan Holtham piece

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2y3IhIpigRo


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## Phil Pascoe (23 Apr 2014)

Put a 4" x 5/16th hole in a piece of 6" x 2"and turn it round. Scuff up the steel a little making sure no part is thicker than 5/16" and glue the bit in.
Mine were done with PVA - it works perfectly well. Why make work?


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