# Machine table lubrication - what's best to use?



## bonzo (18 Feb 2013)

Hi all 

I've recently bought a P/T with cast iron tables that needs a good overhaul to get it back up and running. 

I'm a bit of a newcomer to using/maintaining machines as I've mainly used handtools thus far, so I'm just wondering what products are best to lubricate the tables to keep them rust free and keep the timber gliding over them? 

There seems to be a large range of possible products out there - eg pricier products like Ambersil, ProtecTool and Boeshield, along with cheaper PTFE sprays and degreasers from Screwfix etc. Do I really need to spend £16 for a can of lubricant?!! (Not that I'm tight or anything!) 

The threaded rods that the thicknesser bed rises/falls on are also quite stiff and squeaky - what's best to apply here? Will 3 in 1 or WD40 do the trick, or should I use a PTFE spray??? I'm guessing WD40 etc will just end up being a dust/chip trap.

Any help or advice would be appreciated! 

Cheers


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## barkwindjammer (18 Feb 2013)

I keep one can for all protecting, lubricating etc ACF50 , its not cheap but I still have the same can I bought 6 yrs ago, a little goes a long way :!: 
For 'glide' on planes, bandsaw, saw tables a quick squiggle with french chalk does it for me


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## carlb40 (18 Feb 2013)

I use this on my beds/fences.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/liberon-libe ... d3a41f52c4
Bought a 500ml tin of it with my axi planer about 7 years ago and still not half way through the tin yet


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## siggy_7 (18 Feb 2013)

+1 for Liberon wax. Avoid things with silicone in them, they get absorbed by bare wood and screw up your finishes.


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## Heath Robinson (18 Feb 2013)

I use a quick wipe down with a drop of clementine oil to clean any sticky off, then a small squirt of camellia oil, followed by a coat of car wax. Maguiars clear. Camellia oil is amazingly good at repelling water, a tiny squirt goes an unbelievable distance, and it smells good. Clementine oil shifts resins and saps better than anything else I've tried, and smells phenomenal. Again a little goes miles. 
The wax polishes up like Bison wax, but leaves a hard surface that doesn't ruin yer glue-ups. 
The wax was how my teacher did it, and he makes his living from furniture, so I figure if it works for him, then crack on.


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## Giff (18 Feb 2013)

Another + for the Luberon Wax. I found it best to warm it ( put the tin in warm water ) and then it sets after application. It stops the beds going rusty as well. Geoff


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## Allubo (18 Feb 2013)

Wiping the tables down with oil with a fine steel wool is a good habit once a fortnight or so to prevent rust, to lubricate for planer thicknessers I keep a big old candle next to the machine, rubbing it on the tables allows the wood to slide over, it can spoil a finish if not sanded after thicknessing so beware of how well you prep 

Alex


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## Random Orbital Bob (19 Feb 2013)

I scrub the cast iron with one of those green plastic pan scourers to remove rust. I use wd40 to help shift the rust. Then rag it all clean. Then I apply non silicon paste wax from tesco with a dust cloth. It works a treat, hardens and doesn't mark the wood or hurt finishes. It's as cheap as chips and even smells nice. On my planar and thicknesser tables I have been known to use that "dry" ptfe spray but I also use candles. Trouble with candles is you do tend to get wax on be planed stock....why I like the paste wax. I do always use candles on soles of block planes when doing end grain.


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## marcros (19 Feb 2013)

i use renaissanse wax. it may not be the cheapest solution, but i only have a planer and now bandsaw with cast tabnles and so i figured that it would come in useful for other applications, whereas a dedicated machine wax wouldnt. for the amount that i use, it works out cost effective enough.


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## Spindle (19 Feb 2013)

Hi

Another vote for Liberon Lubo wax - excellent product.

Regards Mick


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## jaywhoopee (19 Feb 2013)

bonzo":3suh0skd said:


> The threaded rods that the thicknesser bed rises/falls on are also quite stiff and squeaky - what's best to apply here? Will 3 in 1 or WD40 do the trick, or should I use a PTFE spray??? I'm guessing WD40 etc will just end up being a dust/chip trap.



This sort of thing should do the trick: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-dry-lubricant-prod883641/

Hope this helps

John


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## RogerBoyle (19 Feb 2013)

I simply use the first tin of wax that i get out of the cupboard 
It may be coloured or it may be clear :mrgreen: 
I tend to redo it when I fel the timber start to drag or my hand doesnt slide as smooth may be a week or it may be several :mrgreen: 

Roger


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## bonzo (19 Feb 2013)

Great! Thanks everyone for your replies. 

I think I'll give the Liberon wax a go for the tables and the Axminster dry lube for the thicknesser bed rods. 

Never heard of clementine oil being used before - you learn something every day!

Cheers


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## Nick Gibbs (19 Feb 2013)

Heath Robinson":1krptqxe said:


> Clementine oil shifts resins and saps better than anything else I've tried, and smells phenomenal. Again a little goes miles.



Where do you buy clementine oil, or you make your own?

Nick


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## Bradshaw Joinery (19 Feb 2013)

+1 for liberon, 

i made a thread entitled machine wax a few months back.


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