# Scroll Saw Work Table Surface Friction



## CzechEx (21 Mar 2011)

Hello Everybody,

I'm new one here, and a new one to scroll sawing. I started scrolling during summer last year as a new profession. Started with a SIP, and soon realised I needed something of greater capacity, so I bought an Excalibur Ex-30. I make puzzles from prints stuck to thin plywood.

I am an Englishman who, by a chain of events now lives in the Czech Republic (The Czech language is really unbelieveable).

I've gained a lot of experiences with scrolling, even in this short time, but obviously it's still all quite new to me.

I hope I can reciprocate any help you might give me, I will do my best!
The Ex-30 is a great saw, no doubt about it. I've just got one major problem with it that has developed. That's what brings me here.

*Excalibur Ex-30*
I have owned an Excalibur Ex-30 since the beginning of this year. Great machine in lots of ways, but a real big problem has developed. If you want to skip the detail (I have been known to waffle on), please jump to *The Crux of the Matter*, below.

*Development of The Problem*
So, when I got the saw, the table surface was finished in some kind of hard resin. It was, however, rough, so I sanded it down with P240, and then it was fine. I think this was the only stage when the friction between the wood and the work surface around the blade was acceptable.

So, over time, the resin coating wore away completely from the area around the blade, leaving bare smooth steel. The friction of wood (mainly 4mm birch plywood) against this was out of all proportion. So, I have tried two kinds of beeswax on the back of the wood (one was really sticky, the other might be ok, but I don't realy want to put beeswax on the back of all my work), epoxy varnish, nail varnish with Teflon, self-adhesive Teflon sheet (thin, brown, transparent, flexible, with fibreglass within), polypropylene "plate", candle wax, paraffin wax, and one type of car wax. None of these really work. I'm still wildly pursuing enquiries.

Also, my work was catching in the vent holes for the dust-suction tube, so I filled them in with a Pattex filler/repairer (and sanded them smooth).

Now, really the friction is comparable almost to breaking an egg with a sledgehammer. It makes my work jerky, it strains my arms enough to inflame the tendons in my elbows, and strains my nerves along with it! I wasn't expecting this problem, and it's come at a rather inconvenient moment, as I need to get this work flowing for my livelihood - if I can get this one solved then everything else is in place so it should all flow just right. So I'm a bit desperate!

*The Crux of The Matter*
I did have a bit of a search though older threads here for the answer, but I couldn't find it - I apologise if it's there and really obvious...... Can anybody tell me anything about reducing friction between wood and the work table surface? I've found something out about Bostik TopCote and Johnson Paste Wax, but they aren't, it seems, available in Europe I need to find something which is at least sensibly orderable in Europe. I am convinced there must be a simple solution to this. Yes, I believe I am desperate!

Thanks already in advance.   :wink: 

Karsten.


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## puzzler (21 Mar 2011)

Hi Karsten
I have not come accross your problem.Suggest you clean your table with methilated spirit or white spirit this should remove any wax residue. when dry I would spray on furniture polish and buff it dry,I find this works for me. hope this helps lets know how you get on.
Regards Puzzler


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## loftyhermes (21 Mar 2011)

I thought that the table of the Excalibur Ex 30 was covered with epoxy paint.


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## Mouse (21 Mar 2011)

Hi Karsten,
Could the problem be you are hanging onto the wood for dear life and forcing it into the blade, bit like a learner driver gripping the steering wheel. Try and relax and use a light touch, do not rush the cutting, let the blade do the work. Puzzlers table treatment is also spot on.
HTH
Mick


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## puzzler (22 Mar 2011)

Hi Karsten
If all the above fails you could add an auxiliary table from ply or mdf 
Regards Puzzler


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## stevebuk (22 Mar 2011)

as daft as it sound also make sure the blade is sharp and inserted the right way round.. DAMHIKT


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## CzechEx (22 Mar 2011)

Thank you everybody for your answers.

I am reading them carefully, and pursuing matters here with unrelenting focus.

I will reply to your kind help properly just as soon as I can.......

Karsten.


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## stevebuk (23 Mar 2011)

just another one to look out for, make sure the wood you are using is actually flat, if not this can cause lots of rocking..


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## jonluv (23 Mar 2011)

I have a basic machine and I put clear sticky plastic on the tabe to eliminate friction-- I did same on Bandsaw but added a measuring scale

Bye


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## CzechEx (26 Mar 2011)

Hello All,

Here we go........

Puzzler -
*Furniture Polish*
Furniture polish by itself was not hefty enough to solve the problem, but it might help as an auxilliary........

Loftyhermes -
*Epoxy Paint*
Yes, the Ex-30's table is _in general_ covered with an epoxy paint, but it had worn away completely around the blade. The epoxy paint itself is definitely on the low side for friction.

Mouse - 
*Hanging on For Dear Life*
Well, it is true that I hang on for dear life to most things, but really, I can honestly say that wasn't it in this case. If I lightened the touch, the wood got caught in the blade and came to life jumping up and down.

Puzzler - 
*"Auxilliary Table"*
So one I dea and one recommendation I got was Formica. So by amazing fortune I got hold of some, and one type that had a lumpy surface finish seems to be _peeerrrrffeccttt_. What a relief!!!! It's not stuck to anything, so I'm sticking it directly to the table - double-sided sticky tape didn't stick well to the underside of the Formica, so I'm trying polyurethane shoe glue - so far it seems better.
And I'm presently polishing it with spray-on FURNITURE POLISH.

Stevebuk -
*Blade*
Well, maybe the blade was a little blunt, but not terribly. It was the right way up.

*Wood - Flat or Not?*
This plywood is sometimes bent by the force of the shrinking drying print on it, but it's not unmanagable.

Jonluv -
*Clear Sticky Plastic*
Interesting idea. Does it not wear through to the adhesive?
The plastics I've tried so far don't have low friction, but I haven't tried that particular one. I'll see how it pans out with the Formica first.

So, there it is. I am still alive.

Karsten.


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## pren (2 Apr 2011)

Hey. I had a similar problem with my table (same with my bandsaw). I gave the cast iron table a good clean with 000 and 0000 wirewool and white spirit, running from front to back. After this, I put a couple of good coats of clear finishing / furniture wax. Once these had set, I buffed with 0000 wirewool to leave a very smooth surface. No more probs and it helps guard against the rust moths.


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## CzechEx (2 Apr 2011)

Thanks Bryn,

I'm still trying to get hold of various waxes as I want to make sure I've got every possible thing to hand.

But the lumpy Formica surface so far is really working well. It's so much better now, it's a world away from how bad it was. I might use wax on it as well - I'll experiment with it.

I'm also trying to get hold of a thin plate of carbon-filled Teflon, just like you have in your frying pans.

Karsten.


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