# Hardwearing finish for Oak dining table



## Wouldchuk (20 Jan 2014)

Hello all,

I'm close to assembly of an American White Oak table in our narrowboat,- It goes against the wall and has a single drop leaf. The table top (when leaf not up) is around 800mm x 350mm, with the drop leaf around 800mm x 25mm. It functions as our everyday table so has drinks and wotnot on it, plus being pulled out to allow us to dine at it.

What would be a good hardwearing finish - one that could cope with hotish plates, cups, the occasional spill, an stand up to regularly being wiped over without stripping the finish off?

I don't mind the colour deepening a little bit to a more golden colour.

I've Osmo wax which I've used on shelves before but I'm not sure its that hardwearing. 

Advice on product , recommended coats, sanding process etc all very much appreciated.

Tim


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## katellwood (21 Jan 2014)

What about a water based floor varnish, numerous thin coats denibbed between each one???


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## Random Orbital Bob (21 Jan 2014)

No hesitation....Osmo PolyX clear. Its beautiful and bullet proof


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## Wouldchuk (21 Jan 2014)

Thanks Bob,

I'll double-check which of the Osmo wax products I have - I cannot remember off hand and it's in the workshop. 

What's your advice on application - I want to get a really hardwearing tabletop - how many coats? 

I'd sand through the grades to 320 wet and dry, then a layer - let it dry - then a gentle sand again with 320 - then another coat etc and do maybe three layers?

After all the work, and for the amount of abuse it will get, i want to protect.

Thanks,

Tim


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## Random Orbital Bob (21 Jan 2014)

3 coats will give an excellent finish especially if you de-nib as you suggest with a fine abrasive. That thing will resist anything including hot tea cup rings...it really is that good.


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## katellwood (21 Jan 2014)

For info, I have put five coats of osmo on this (American White Oak) ragged on as opposed to brushed, denibbed with 320 between each coat.

The finish is excellent however was susceptible to heat (I think all finishes are)

should-have-done-a-wip-i-know-but-t76506.html


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## Woodmonkey (21 Jan 2014)

+1 for osmo I used this on my kitchen worktops and it's been great


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## Wouldchuk (22 Jan 2014)

Right ho - 3 coats, and some new coasters and place-mats!! 

I probably wont get that far for a few weeks but I'll pop some pics up when done. It's not quite the same league as that beautiful table Kat!


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## Woodfinish Man (22 Jan 2014)

Don't want to be a 'stick in the mud' but Osmo are very clear that only 2 coats should ever be applied. We've had customers in the past who encountered great problems when too much oil had been applied to the surface.

As for it being bullet proof...really can't agree with that...we did a range of domestic chemical tests a couple of years ago and were far from impressed, red wine marks were visible and a drop of Domestos bleached the surface. A waterbased lacquer is far more durable although not as easy to maintain or as natural looking.


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## Sgian Dubh (22 Jan 2014)

Woodfinish Man":10g9yw51 said:


> As for it being bullet proof...really can't agree with that...


My observations concur with your regarding the Osmo products - good but not bullet proof.

No-one has suggested using a short oil interior varnish. These are easy to apply with a brush, or can be thinned a bit and wiped on, and two or three brushed coats are very tough. I suppose the biggest drawbacks with oil varnish is you need good brushing technique, and because they are slow drying there's the risk of dust and other debris dropping into the wet film and marring it. And as Woodchuk doesn't mind some darkening this type of product will do that. As for advice about application, etc, follow the instructions on the can. Slainte.


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## Wouldchuk (23 Jan 2014)

'short oil varnish' - i'm afraid thats not something i've heard of before - do you have any specific brand name/producers and products which I could take a look at please, and perhaps purchase some for a test?

I've been lookng at the shelves I made recently, which are finished with 2 coats of Osmo polyx and they have stained as a result of spices etc - this is partly as I haven't wiped them, but it doesnt bode well for a very regularly used table application. 

Thanks,

Tim


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## Sgian Dubh (23 Jan 2014)

There are basically two types of oil based varnish, short oil and long oil. It refers to the proportion of (usually) boiled linseed oil in the mix. Short oil varnishes are interior varnishes with less oil and are tougher and more brittle than long oil varnishes which have a higher proportion of oil. These latter are softer and more flexible designed for exterior use and sold as yacht, spar or marine varnish.

You would want an interior varnish for a table. Marine varnishes are poor performers generally for this type of application - too soft and easily damaged. Most of the easily available brands are good: I tend to use the Rustins brand of polyurethane varnish as it's what my finish supplier sells. To know you've got an oil based varnish look at equipment cleaning instructions. If it says clean with white spirits it's oil based varnish. If it says clean up with just soap and water, it's a water based finish. 

As I said before, follow the guidance on the can, but a common application problem is over brushing with cheap brushes, often sold in packs of five or ten for £3 or £5 at places like B&Q, etc. A decent brush for varnish might set you back £20, and they usually have a label of some sort saying what the brush is good for, e.g., water based paint, oil varnish, etc, and even B&Q and similar DIY places sell some better quality brushes of this type. A really good one might be twice that. 

At application time get the varnish on quickly working from the centre to the edges to avoid runs. I usually thin out the first coat of varnish a little with white spirits, maybe 5 - 10%. Applying from the edge to the centre usually means excess varnish is dragged out of the bristles and runs down the edge leaving a big sag or curtain. Once the varnish is on you 'tip off'. Clean out most of the varnish from the bristles and, holding the brush almost vertical and working from the centre out, just allow the tips of the brush to lightly level out the surface of the wet film and to help pop any air bubbles.

After that, walk away, let the varnish dry and clean up your kit ready for the next coat. Slainte.


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## Wouldchuk (24 Jan 2014)

That's really helpful, thank you so much. I;ll take a look at what I can find locally and have a bit of a test run. Now need to get on and finish building it!


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