# Kity 636 user manual



## sideshowbob (14 May 2013)

Hi All, I recently inherited an old Kity 636 planer/thicknesser. I would like to get it running properly and am hoping the instruction manual may help a little bit. I've seen in a few old threads that someone may have a PDF they may kindly be able to email me. I would be really grateful if anyone can help.


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## sideshowbob (17 May 2013)

Does anyone have one of these?


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## marcros (17 May 2013)

i dont have one, but have had other Kity kit. The manuals seem to be universally useless, so I wouldnt be too gutted if nobody can provide a copy.


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## Steve Maskery (17 May 2013)

Bob
What's wrong with it as it is? What do you need to fix?
S


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## thomvic (17 May 2013)

I have a 635 which I believe is virtually the same. It works just fine when properly set up. My manual is in French but I have a handwritten partial translation. I can confirm what Marcros says - "The manuals seem to be universally useless, so I wouldnt be too gutted if nobody can provide a copy." I'll arrange a copy for you if you really wish but you may benefit more if you respond to Steve's post.

Richard


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## Eric The Viking (17 May 2013)

I too have a smaller Kity I've just fettled. 

What specifically is wrong? 

They're really not very complicated, although they are pretty annoying to work on, IMHO. If you have a good, accurate straightedge, feeler gauges and/or a dial gauge and a mount for same, you can set them up from a standing start to work pretty well - I've just done that with mine.

Come on, whazzup?

E.

PS: lest you get the wrong impression - I'd defer to Steve M. on this every time. Have a look at his YouTube video on planer snipe - he has a Kity too.


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## sideshowbob (18 May 2013)

!m sorry it has taken so long to get back to you all, i was in the workshop all day yesterday until about 11pm. 
First of all i need to replace the blades. i reckon i can do this without a manual, but i also want to make sure the cutting block is the right height in regard to the out feed table. The outfeed table is level and everything is set up properly. ive never owned a planer/thicknesser before and its all quite daunting! The last time i used a planer thicknesser was at University about 12 years ago.
Im also not too sure how to set the machine up as a thicknesser, and the on/off switch wont stay on so im guessing im going to have to replace that somehow as well.
Eric- out of interest what do you find annoying about them? ps ive got none of the tools you mentioned apart from the straight edge!


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## Steve Maskery (18 May 2013)

Well Bob, apart from changing the blades, the user manual won't help you with any of the rest, IIRC. I do have a copy of the manual somewhere, but having had 4 addreses in 13 months I can't lay my hands on it any more.
If you know the OF table is level WRT the block, I suggest you assume it is also at the correct height. It doesn't alter on its own, you have to undo a locking screw then wind it up and down on its slope using an Allen key to change it. No-one does that unless they have to, so assume it's OK.
As to setting the blades, this may help: http://blip.tv/workshopessentialscom/installing-planer-thicknesser-jointer-knives-2470670

If your thicknesser is producing boards which are thicker at one edge compared to the other, then you have to start from scratch, as that is the first thing to get right.
That means chocking the machine up high, such as across two Workmates. You have to work underneath it, so this must be secure! There are then four lead screws driven by a chain. Release the chain and turn the offending lead screw to raise or lower the offending corners. Re-attach the chain. S


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## Argus (19 May 2013)

.

Concur with what's been said, and I have an English language manual if you care to PM your e mail. It's about 1 mb, if I recall.

The best way to quickly check if the tables are in line/level to each other is to go over it systematically with a bevel-box.

Setting the blades is a fiddle, but the two-bits-of-wood method is better than any of the setting jigs I've used on this machine in my opinion.

All best


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## Eric The Viking (19 May 2013)

You can do the knives and tables with only a straightedge, feeler gauge and some hardwood strips, but you can't easily set the thicknesser table that way, and the thicknesser needs to be done first. 

As Steve says, check the thicknesser output: as a quick check, I'd use calipers: You don't need to actually measure the thickness, merely check if it's even, so turners' calipers (the handheld sort for measuring diameters of turned objects) will do. Thickness something that's pretty much the full width of the machine. If the pieces coming out are of even thickness, it doesn't need further adjustment. 

There are a few similarities wih my Kity 439. I think the leadscrews doing the thicknesser table are the same, in which case, they're 2.5mm pitch (one rev = 2.5mm change in height), and there are ten teeth on each sprocket on the chain drive that links all four together. That means altering the chain by one tooth will be 0.25mm change in height (i.e. tilt) on that corner of the thicknesser table. I'd say that's too coarse for a precise adjustment, but the 439 is only 7" (200mm) wide, so the thicknesser alignment is actually harder to do.

Steve M will know: It may be that you can loosen the sprockets on each shaft. in which case you can adjust in tiny increments (good!). That may also be clear from any exploded diagram in the manual, otherwise you'll just have to get under and try it!

It's much easier to do than to describe, though.

I guess theoretically you could check/adjust the parallelism with a narrow hardwood block or simlar, but it's a bit rough. Basically, the thicknesser bed needs to be parallel to the planer knives. If you use the planer knife drum as your datum for everything, that's probably a good idea, as it's smooth and carefully machined. In the latter case, you might use a metal block or similar, as you're aligning against the drum, and thus won't hurt the knives. Put the block on the thicknesser table, under one end of the drum and with a strongish light behind it, then bring the thicknesser table up until you can just see a crack of light between the two. Repeat at the other end _without altering the thicknesser table height_. If the gap is the same, it's probably fine (you can do an absolute check with the feeler gauge at this point).

Order of work:

TURN THE POWER OFF AND REMOVE THE PLUG FROM THE MAINS. 
Check/adjust the thicknesser bed against the drum for parallelism
Check the outfeed table (planer) against the drum for parallelism, and that the table is as high up its slope as it can be and still be parallel. This gives the most room for knife adjustment later and the best support for the table in use. It also gives the greatest possible depth of cut on the thicknesser, as it brings the knives closer to the plane of the thicknesser rollers when their springs aren't compressed by the stock (on the 439 you can't adjust the rollers independently of the planer tables, but I think you can on yours).
Check the infeed table against the outfeed table: The two planes must be parallel , and ideally the infeed table at the same height or very slightly higher as the outfeed when wound fully in (so no cut will be taken at that point), but they don't have to be coplanar.
Set the knives' heights to be equal and to reach the plane of the outfeed table. There are differing opinions on this one: some say the knives need to be a gnat's higher than the outfeed table. Mine are as near to the same height as I can manage, and it works just fine.

For the thicknesser leadscrews, I'd arm myself with a can of carb cleaner a small paintbrush (1/2") and a Chinagraph pencil or a good fine permanent marker. You need to make index marks on the shaft and the sprocket before loosening anything, and make sure it's thoroughly clean first. Tightening down on sawdust will make accurate setup nigh-on impossible! The carb cleaner is a powerful degreaser (and will strip paint!), but you can't otherwise easily make marks on oily metal unless you scratch it (Chinagraphs are oil based so may work though). Don't get it in your eye! If you degrease, you must grease it again afterwards, obviously.

E.

Edit: forgot to say: you could hold the leadscrew still with a mole wrench _gently_ clamped to it at the bottom below the table. If you damage the screw, it's least nuisance at the bottom (you rarely thickness 10" stock!). If you're worried about this, improvise some "soft jaws" with a short offcut of 10mm copper water pipe, hacksawed lengthwise into two half-cylinders. This'll take quite a lot of pressure without damaging the thread inside.

(Even later) It strikes me you could do the whole thing with a straightedge, a metal block big enough to go in the thicknesser and give you room to get a hand in alongside it, and a feeler gauge. You'd need two somethings of aluminium or brass to do the knives, as steel would probably hurt the edge, but otherwise it's possible and reasonable practicable.


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## sideshowbob (19 May 2013)

Wow! I never expected to get such brilliant responses! Thank you all so much for taking the time to write such detailed answers.

Steve- thank you for posting your video. I thoroughly enjoyed it as well as it being very informative. You should definately be on TV (i also loved the music).
Argus- a copy of the manual would be great. As soon as i have enough posts i will pm you my email address.
Eric- great post. That order of work is perfect and i will commence it this evening when i get back in the workshop.

i just want to thank you all again for being so kind and giving me the confidence to tackle this job. I will take some photos of the workshop and show you all what im trying to accomplish.


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## beeorchid (4 Nov 2017)

My Kity has an overoad switch, which now does not stay on at all. Does anyone know how to fix it, or even how it works please?


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## Myfordman (4 Nov 2017)

Are you sure it is an overload switch giving trouble? A No Volt Release switch is more likely and the coil could be faulty but the most likely problem is dust in the off switch which usually has normally closed contacts. Estop switches are another possible source of problems if you have one.

Don't waste time trying to find a manual. Kity documentation is as good as a chocolate teapot


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## the bird man (29 Apr 2019)

Did you manage to get hold of a user manual because I have a kity 637 and I want to know if there are any greasing points and also how to change the drive belt. Many thanks.


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