# Walnut question



## 9fingers (2 May 2010)

Help please!

I bought some ABW the other day and despite selecting it as best I could, now that I have planed it, there is a bit of a variation in colour even when the sapwood is ignored/cut out.

I wonder if using a walnut stain on it would help even the colour up a bit. I don't mind if it ends up a bit darker than normal ABW as the recipient is not an expert and does not know what colour to expect.

TIA

Bob


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## clewlowm (2 May 2010)

bob. i would have thought using a dark stain,would make it more obvious. do you know a good french polisher?


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## 9fingers (2 May 2010)

OK Thanks Mike. I need a pretty durable 'top coat' so will be using a hard wax oil on it.

My thinking was that the stain might not darken the already dark areas as much as it would the lighter ones. 

However I have no expertise to speak of with finishes coming as I do from the New Yankee Workshop school of finishing - PU varnish on most things made to date.
 

Bob


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## clewlowm (2 May 2010)

do you want me to spray it for you?


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## 9fingers (2 May 2010)

Interesting thought! Thanks for the offer Mike.

Part of me says yes! and the other thinks I need to learn about finishing by having a go myself.

Can I get back to you on that later please.

Cheers

Bob


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## clewlowm (2 May 2010)

not a problem bob.


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## jasonB (3 May 2010)

Not tried it on walnut but Vandyke crystals give a nice dark brown colour and they are made from Walnut shells so should be compatable. But don't use a waterbased finish over it as it will draw the colour.

Jason


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## yellowbelly (3 May 2010)

Why not stain or colour match the light parts down/nearer to the darker grain?


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## wizer (3 May 2010)

What about using a blotch control product to even the stain over the wood?

Like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfCYMdrP8rM

It's lengthy but interesting.


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## Shane (3 May 2010)

yellowbelly":1kz1xqms said:


> Why not stain or colour match the light parts down/nearer to the darker grain?



I'd go with this as well, I've done it with oak using a (rustins or liberon) wood dye and a cloth, it worked perfectly and it looked really even.


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## yellowbelly (3 May 2010)

wizer":jze6cj4v said:


> What about using a blotch control product to even the stain over the wood?
> 
> Like this:
> 
> ...


Jeez he goes through some tissues :lol: hes not doing anything a thinned sanding sealer or a shellac sealer would nt achieve


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## wisno (7 May 2010)

Yes you need to match your color with stain.
Use a kind of sap stain to bring your light color to the overall color. Than you can apply your clear coat on it.

You can view it in my web articles : how to match color in wood finishing.
[http://www.wisnofurniturefinishing.com/2009/12/color-equaling-in-furniture-finishing.html][/url]


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## Chris Knight (7 May 2010)

Jason suggests Van Dyke crystals and I have found this to be the best method for staining walnut it can also be used on other woods (I have used it on oak and poplar with good effect).

You can apply it by rag or spray. It is easy to "shade" if using a spray - a smallish spray makes this a doddle. It dries quickly enough to keep working on a moderate sized piece without waiting around to check the final colour. 

A range of colour from a very light brown to a rich deep, dark brown can be achieved depending on the number of applications/method of application (a wet rag puts it on more thickly than a light spray) and the strength of the solution you have made from the crystals.

It is a dye so doesn't obscure the grain.

It is also pretty lightfast.

This dressing table was made in poplar and stained with van Dyke crystals (stashed in my dining room whilst awaiting something or other to complete it)


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## 9fingers (7 May 2010)

I have ordered some van dyck crystals to experiment with.
The instructions say that they have to be dissolved in warm water but does the solution have to be kept warm to use it?

Do the crystals come out of solution when it cools? 

Can the made up solution be kept for future use?

TIA

Bob


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## Chris Knight (7 May 2010)

The solution can be used cold. the crystals do not come out of solution as it cools (unless I suppose you have made a saturated solution at a high temperature - which I have never done).

I am still using stuff I made up years ago. It's always handy to have around for the odd "touch-up".

As always, test your finishing recipes on scrap or designated test pieces first!


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## 9fingers (7 May 2010)

Cheers Chris,

I hope to have ago over the weekend. I've dug the airbrush out so I can try that as well.

Bob


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## Chris Knight (7 May 2010)

Good luck Bob - let us know how you get on.


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## MickCheese (7 May 2010)

clewlowm and 9fingers

Is it just me?

Can you two please sort out your avatars or not post in the same thread, it's very confusing. :? 

Sometimes I think you are talking to yourselves.  

Mick


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## 9fingers (7 May 2010)

Mike,

Mine is unique and still has my 9finger on show but Mike Clewlow and Stuart do currently have similar ones.

We are all members of the Romsey faction of the UKW revolutionary party! :lol: 

Bob


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## MickCheese (9 May 2010)

9fingers":jfcmdepj said:


> Mike,
> 
> Mine is unique and still has my 9finger on show but Mike Clewlow and Stuart do currently have similar ones.
> 
> ...



Ah

That explains it :wink: 

Mick


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