# Cutting threads on new arms for meddings.imp.-metric info



## Bm101

Sorry guys. After some info and sage advice (as always).
I recently bought an old meddings drill. At first I was determined not to do it up. Determined I tells ya. Take the worst of the rust off and not get sidetracked yet again by doing up old tools. My resolve crumbled faster than a child's sandcastle with the return of the tide. 

_I'll just rub it down a bit_ I thought. When I found myself researching car body fillers I knew I was yet again a lost cause. If you've ever tried two part wood fillers and thought they went off quick... sheeesh! So Yeh. Learning curve as always. We're getting there though. 

So back on track. Think I'm the only person on ukw who can send the thread off topic in my own first post.
Discipline. Must be disciplined.

The star wheel arms. Only one is original. All three are different lengths. Emailed meddings Typically awesome customer service tbf... No we don't do that part any more we can send you 3 new m12 metric arms. Nine quid odd each plus vat and travel. Ouch. Old ones are 1/2" about 12.5 mm and judging by what I can see from every other part on the drill are probably bsf. 

Soooo... what I'm wondering is this. 
If I get a length of mild steel 1/2 inch round bar. Buy a bsf 1/2" die and diestock I should be able to make my own? Can't be too tricky can it if I can keep the die square? Quarter turn back on each cut?
Bit worried the 2 new arms have been jammed in and messed up the thread but if it comes to it I can always tap out a bigger metric size and get some new rod. Worse case.

I'm away from home for a couple of days so can't measure tpi etc on the original rod. 
I can get new balls for the ends in m12 so they should fit on ok with a bit of faffing. 

Also. These ones look okie doke? 
https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/BSF ... _Taps.html

On the mobile. Internet services patchy.

Regards and thanks as always. 
Best regards.
Chris


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## MusicMan

Yes, not too hard. Even easier if you have a lathe to keep things square. (you don't turn it on!).


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## Bm101

Thanks bud. Just wondering if I'm missing anything.


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## AndyT

Not too hard, provided you have a reasonable metalwork vice to hold the round bar vertical. Without a lathe, you'll need to file a short chamfer on the end. Then, holding the 1/2" bar vertical, bear down on it with the die in a stock and screw it on to the end. Take half a turn clockwise then half a turn back to break the chip. A few drops of 3 in 1 will help.
We managed it in school metalwork at age 11, under supervision.

Or I could do some for you if you like...


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## Bm101

Thanks Andy. I'll cope. Thanks for the heads up on the chamfer.


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## Phil Pascoe

Actually you could cut your bars a little over length and grind a longer taper, it's easier to start the die. Just cut the unwanted bit off the end after you're done. It's a bit easier to hold square.


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## MusicMan

BM101 - if you like I can do them for you, if you supply the metal and the die. I have the diestock, and a lathe with die attachment.

I was recently done a big favour by Droogs, who wouldn't take payment but asked me to "pay forward" a favour to someone else, so don't feel embarrassed about asking!


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## Bm101

Thanks Phil that's handy to know.

Many thanks MM, that's a really kind offer. Very generous of you. Actually quite like to try it myself first if you know what I mean. 
If I mess it up I may well get in touch when I get back. In secret though so I don't disrupt everyone's perception of me as the ultimate engineer come woodworking God. :roll: 
You lot need some one to inspire you after all... :-" 

Thanks for all the help as always. Put my mind at ease while I think things through. Learnt a bit more on my little journey.
Chris


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## AndyT

A couple more tips for a first timer - sorry if these are too obvious.

Dies have a slight taper so start with the wider side towards the work. This is generally the side marked with the size.
For the first cut, use the grubscrew in the diestock to open up the diameter to the max, by tightening it into the split.
Afterwards, if needed, you can make a finishing cut down to exact size with the die closed up.
(Some cheap dies don't have a split and are not adjustable.)


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## Bm101

Not at all. Thanks again Andy. I had been wondering exactly that about split dies!


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## AES

@Bm101: +1 for all the points above, EXCEPT:

Andy T's point about which side the taper is on the die. Sorry, I don't want to contradict you Andy, and I'm NOT 100% certain of this, but I was always taught that the taper ("start") of the die is made on the side which is UNDER the die when mounted in the die stock - i.e. you can read the size, make, etc, etched/engraved into the TOP face of the die when mounted in the die stock, against the shoulder of the die stock.

SHORT PAUSE:

A short while later: I'm glad I wrote "I'm not 100% certain" about the above statement because the reason for the short pause is that I've just been downstairs to my cellar to check. I repeat I'm certain I was told the above is true, but now having looked at a random hand full of dies, various manufacturers, some split type, some solid, various sizes and various threads inc BSF, BSW, BA, and M (mainly "standard" though also a few M Fine), and was surprised to see they varied - some had the engraving on the "top" of the die, some on the "bottom", and would you believe, my flabber is well & truly garsted, one die had markings top AND bottom? "Well blow me down - gently" (or some such phrase)!

Anyway, the point Bm101 is, as all others have said, you do need to make sure you start with the tapered side of the die "downwards - i.e. this is the part of the die that first starts to cut the thread.

Having been taught to hand cut both male and female threads during apprenticeship (and having cut many many more since) I also fully endorse the need to make your own taper on the rod to be threaded. But do leave yourself enough length that you're not afraid to make the taper a decent length. If you're not filing that taper and have a belt sander, another good method is to twiddle the rod between your fingers while "turning" your taper against a not too coarse abrasive belt - ali oxide is ideal, but don't let the work piece start to discolour 'cos then you're making it too hot!

And don't be afraid to set your work piece in the vice as accurately as you can - there's nothing daft about using, for example, a small spirit level or square to check the work piece is set vertically in the vice, AND using the level across the die stock handles every half turn forward until you're well into cutting your thread. We were taught that it's easy to hand cut threads which have varying depths around the bar and which are "drunken", and that is too true - this was specifically checked by the instructor every time. But like many other things, once you've done a few it gets easier and easier (though still a task which needs care to guarantee success).

Good luck and hope the above is not too much detail. I'm obviously not the nearest one to you, but if all else fails I'll cut 'em for you.  

AES


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## chaoticbob

If you happened to have a drill press to hand :wink: together with one of those vices with a vertical V in the jaws on the table, you could stick the new arm in the vice and through a hole in the drill table then use the nose of the drill chuck against the back of the diestock to get you started square. Rough and ready compared to doing it on a lathe, but better than trying to start the thread freehand.
Rob.


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## MusicMan

Bm101":7nrcknd4 said:


> Many thanks MM, that's a really kind offer. Very generous of you. Actually quite like to try it myself first if you know what I mean.
> If I mess it up I may well get in touch when I get back. In secret though so I don't disrupt everyone's perception of me as the ultimate engineer come woodworking God. :roll:



That's fine, I thought you might say that. And I promise not to tell if you do get back .

"Cut a man a thread and he can screw it up once. Teach a man to thread and he can screw it up for life" !

Oh one other thing, as has been said some cheap dies don't have a split. I use a Dremel with a hard abrasive blade to cut a thin split. Works fine. 

Don't be tempted to use stainless steel, this is much tougher!

Keith


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## DTR

I've only just seen this thread..... I can't contribute anything to the excellent advice given in the posts above, but I'll offer my assistance along with the others should you want it 



chaoticbob":19625u00 said:


> If you happened to have a drill press to hand :wink: together with one of those vices with a vertical V in the jaws on the table, you could stick the new arm in the vice and through a hole in the drill table then use the nose of the drill chuck against the back of the diestock to get you started square. Rough and ready compared to doing it on a lathe, but better than trying to start the thread freehand.
> Rob.



^^^^ This is a really good tip if you have no other means of starting the thread square.


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## Bm101

More advice gratefully received. You guys really are legendary in your willingness to help and advise a beginner. Ukw is quite a special place really. As always I'm left a little stunned by how much members are willing to help some numpty like me. Anyway enough of all that.

Aes. Thanks for the detailed reply. I have a little cheapo but much loved inherited clarke belt sander with a few varieties of oxide belt. When I made/converted/bodged my little stanley 101 'infil' I quickly learnt I couldn't reliably turn the tip of the cap screw to a point (a brass m10 bolt with a salvaged plumbing pipe cap smashed onto the head) by hand. I got round it by drilling a 10 mm hole on a bit of wood and using it as jig of sorts to spin the bolt against the belt. Will do the same for the bar to chamfer it.
Bit of fiddling but should give me a decent start with any luck. 
I bought one of those gem digital meters second hand from Karl on here a while back for a cracking price. Planning to square up the rod in the vice as well as possible then whack that baby on the diestock. If I can't get it square with that after a practice run or two I don't have any business doing this stuff tbh... 

Chaotic Bob. Great tip! Many thanks. Storing that one up. I could restore the drill and then come back and do the arms, only reason not to do it is the paint job really. Details!

Keith. Thanks for understanding. :wink: 

Dave. STOP. Thanks mate. STOP. Running short of raspberry jam. STOP. Kids starving. STOP. Situation desperate. STOP. Please inform Doris . STOP. 
 

I need to get home, get the replacement arms out and check the last owner didn't bork the threads in the star wheel jamming in wrong size threads. If he did I'm going to need to tap them out and then go metric anyway. 

Cheers chaps. Your help is much appreciated. Regular readers of my drivel will realise where I am and my lament at the closure of the colyton tool shop. What sort of luck to find a place like that only for it to shut down 2 months later....  
Cheers as always.
Chris


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## Bm101

Sorry to go on...
Just had a thought. Would I be okay to use aluminium bar instead of steel? 1/2" should be strong enough shouldn't it? Easier to cut and less prone to rust. 
Thanks.
Chris


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## AES

Can't see why not Bm101. If you have a spare piece (i.e. don't have to buy it) and can feel roughly how much force is needed to lower the quill (against an object being drilled) just put your piece of bar in the vice at approx the required length and reproduce that force. If the ali bar bends then it's not strong enough!!!! But I doubt that will happen. It should be fine.

Then if going ahead to thread the ali bar, be extra careful to clear the chips VERY regularly as the die cuts down the bar. Ali swarf is "sticky" and will tend to clog the threads on the die. Because the ali bar is soft, bits of swarf stuck to the die threads will tend to produce badly cut threads in the bar if you don't clear the swarf regularly.

HTH

AES


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## Bm101

Thanks mate. Much appreciated. Wondered if the ali might be easier to polish up bright as well tbh. 
It's a bit cheaper too. Never hurts. 
Found this mob who seem reasonable. https://www.forwardmetals.co.uk/product ... d-bar.html 
Will make a decision when I get back. 
Picking up a few bargains on ma holibobs has become a bit of a tradition. This year though.... Nothing. Literally not a thing. I even popped into Axminster HQ and wandered round. I kicked a few of the hobby range drills grumpily. Watched a middle aged fella asking daft questions about lie nielsen planes while his wife hovered. Meh. Took a soba die stock out its box then put it quietly back on the shelf. I could make a better one myself. Felt oddly empty. 
Few hours later I'm mooching along and I see a couple of decorating tables set up outside a chapel. Bric a brac. Tosh. Stuffed toys, knitwear and two yards of bad china. 
Ffs. 
'Don't s'pose you have any tools hidden away there do you?' I ask the comically genial volunteer. 'Well I don't think so....' he answers brightly. He ducks down and has a shuffle in the boxes. 'I don't suppose these are any use? It's all we have I'm afraid. 

Pulls out a twin screw metal working clamp, what I'm guessing is a sorby paring chisel in reasonable and a tap and die. Just the two. 
Shut the front door. It can't be. 1/2" bsf both of them. 
Sometimes, just sometimes, you are sent a message. :shock:
Best to answer.  

Best as always. 
Chris.


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## chaoticbob

A couple of thoughts on using ali...
A rule of thumb is that ali is about as strong as steel on a weight-for-weight basis (the Youngs modulus for ali is about one third of that for steel, but it's about a third the density), so you will derating the stiffness of the arms by a factor of about three. If my calculation is right(!?) it would be like replacing the half inch arms with 0.28" in steel. I assume Meddings would have specified the thickness of the arms to match the strength of the machine - you don't say what model it is, but it sounds like it's fairly beefy and potentially capable of serious work.
Second thought is that aluminium is much more prone to repetitive stress fracture than is steel. I'd worry that the arm will eventually break at the point where it enters the hub, where the stress is at it's highest. Being threaded at that point, the thread 'valleys' will concentrate the stress too. 
Well, that's the theory, but I found a bit of half inch ali bar in the scrap bin and tried it in my Fobco instead of the steel bar (this machine has a single hole drilled diametrically through the 'hub', so no threading necessary) and bore on it at a distance of maybe a foot from the hub with a bit more than the force than I'd need to drill a half inch hole in steel. It flexed noticeably, but no permanent bend that I could see.
Personally I'd stick with steel.
Good luck with the restoration whichever way! 
Rob.
PS - you're going to trip over a length of half inch steel in the street next aren't you! (Crossed posts).
R.


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## Bm101

Ok thanks Bob. That's a definitive answer! Steel it is. Many thanks for going to all that trouble with your drill to test it as well. Above and beyond and all that. It's really much appreciated. Mine's an m4b btw. There's a few pics here. new-meddings-owner-if-i-ve-learnt-one-single-thing-t106700.html

A link to the surprise holiday haul 
https://imgur.com/OaEW26v
Looking more closely I think the chisel is not a sorby. Handle fooled me. I can't make it out without a bit of a clean.

Thanks again .
Regards 
Chris


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## AES

@Bm101:

There's nothing to disagree with in chaoticbob's post, on the contrary, BUT, a lot will depend on what "sort" (alloy) your ali is - some is pretty hard and will work-harden if it's bent regularly - that's just one example of "fings what can 'appen".

All the same, personally, if I had a suitable ali rod to hand, and didn't know it's spec (alloy type), I'd still give it a go, but your choice of course.

All that happens at the worst is that it will bend and then (probably) slowly break, meaning you start again using MS the 2nd time. 

IF you do try ali, as well as my warning about "sticky" swarf above, DO use lubricant while threading. The books say paraffin, but if none available, I've found WD40 works as well.

Whatever you choose, good luck.

HTH

AES


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## MusicMan

Me I'd use a bit of nice ground steel bar stock from Cromwell's. It would look cool and match all that nice work you've done on that Meddings.


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## Bm101

Thanks Aes. As always I appreciate your detailed advice. The supplier link I posted was the cheapest I could find for graded ali. 6082 T6 which seems to be the most suitable for purpose.
I think you're right. I'd even read about it work hardening as you mention. I do try to do my research before asking daft questions, sometimes I just end up in the proverbial cul de sac...
If had any in my shed I'd try it first. But seeing as I will have to buy either option the steel seem the right option. 
It's all good knowledge and handy to know so thanks again for sharing. As always it's much appreciated. 
Regards
Chris


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## AES

Glad to try and help mate. Loads of people help me on here.

As a point of interest, musicman obviously "knows his onions", but I think it's arguable about the use of ground steel bar stock - it would look nice, no doubt. But as you've said you've not cut threads by hand before, it's arguable (either way) if it would be easier to start off thread cutting on a "soft" bar or a "hard" one!

But if you've got to buy the stuff anyway, then go ahead, buy steel - you KNOW that'll do the job.

AES

(Don't forget, pix when finished)


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## Bm101

Tbh, I had a look but couldn't see it on Cromwells site. (I'm not at my pc btw so it's a bit painful ) I've used ground flat o1 stock a couple of times to make a few bits like plane irons etc. I'm not sure what the difference is between that and mild steel. Only stuff I could find on Cromwell on patchy mobile Internet was flat bar.

Edit: Scrub that. Bit more research done this morning.


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## Bm101

Riiiiiight. Another daft question. Soz. How do we hold round bits of metal securely in a vice?

So the bright mild steel turned up Friday following closely on the heels of the 1.5" diestock. Had a moment the other day when painting bits of the drill where I was struck by the thought that the 2 replacement arms had quite possibly borked the internal thread on the star wheel. I'd picked up the 1/2" tap with the tapered die but that won't get to the bottom of the holes I realised..... Can you see where this is going yet? I thought very very briefly about taking a hacksaw to the tap. Very Briefly lol. Sod that. HSS. Bit more enquiring of mind and I realised in the whole history of engineering this problem had possibly been faced before so toodled of to the internet. One visit to ebay and a few days later a half inch bsf bottom tap turned up. (SunnyBob I can hear you laughing you monster.)
Had a day off today and a couple of hours free. Crack on I thought. Should give me enough time to get the arms sorted.
Cleaned up the internal threads with said bottom tap. Then did some measurements and cut the first length of steel. Looked at it and realised I'm a bit of a div and cut a bit more off. No idea what happened there. Shhhh. Used it to cut the last two. Found a squareish bit of off cut to use as a jig and drilled a hole in it. Looked at it and realised I'm a bit of a div and went and got the right size forstner bit and drilled the right size hole in it. Shhhh.

Chucked em all on the Clarkey. 
Action shot! Woooo!







Going good guns.
Being very careful to try and stay square I started cutting the thread. Realised the rod was turning in the vice despite turning the diestock back as much as I could to reduce force (I have some magnetic rubber jaws on it.). Cinched it up as _tight _as I could and same thing. You can see the effect on the rubber jaw below. Wrapped it in leather and tried with and without the rubber jaws. Nope. Nearly tried just masking tape then thought better of it. I'm really trying to avoid messing up the surface of the rod if possible to save extra work. Had a think and wondered about a coupla things. What about using wet and dry? Then I got to _really_ thinking about surface areas. If I could make it grip on 4 points instead of 2.... V blocks. I don't have V blocks but wondered about getting the router out. Time was getting on so I didn't attempt it without asking advice but has anyone tried this with some hardwood? More trouble than it's worth probably. I'm sure there's a solution that's easier that I'm missing! Already started to mark the first rod. 











Any ideas for this noob? Would just a bit of cardboard etc work? I lost patience and came in and poured a cider at this point before ruining anything.
I even tried using the mistake off cut of rod to balance the vice jaws in case it was racking to no effect. 
:|

Cheers!
Chris


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## AES

Quick suggestion - "make" a couple of wooden blocks with a v grove in each, sized so that they will NOT QUITE close on the bar (bit of trial and error required) as you tighten the vice. Should work.

Tip for the future - "next time" you break a taper tap ("What next time I hear you ask?"  ) don't just chuck the broken tap in the bin (it'll probably "only" be broken at the bottom, tapered, part). Instead grind the bottom off square and hey "Presto" (sorry!) one plug/bottoming tap next time you need one.

AES


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## AES

Quick P.S. to the above, first part - the wooden blocks should be at least the length/height of the vice jaws, if not more - NOT less.


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## Bm101

Many thanks as always AES. You are a Gentleman and a Scholar. Was kinda thinking today maybe the m12 arms from Meddings would have just saved a load of grief. Wedge them in, job done. Probably spent close to the cost to make my own. #-o 
But then, that's not the point is it.

*cries into cider.


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## MusicMan

I can't quite see whether your die has a slit in it. This should be lined up with the centre grub screw and tightened up like mad to wedge the die open for the first cut. Lubricated of course. Then you can close it up on subsequent cuts. This will be MUCH easier. In fact I did one this week where I didn't have a big enough die holder, so I held the bottom of the die in the vice and wedged it open with a screwdriver . Couldn't turn it at all without opening it. This was extending an existing M10 thread in a fairly strong bolt.

If it doesn't have a slit in it then make one. A Dremel with slitting wheel or the like will do it.

With a shaft this size you don't have much hope without using the die "progressively".

Keith


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## TFrench

I've used some thin aluminium to keep vice jaws from marking work in the past. AES's way is right of course. If you have a 52 1/2 vice with wooden jaws, that'll work too. 

Brainwave - you could drill an appropriate sized hole in a block of wood, then cut it in half to get your "V" blocks. The kerf will give you a gap.


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## Bm101

Point taken Keith. It has a slit. 
I got the idea but not the necessity. That makes a lot of sense. Didn't realise I had to be so aggressive with the screws but itsvery obvious once pointed out.
Many thanks
Chris


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## Bm101

TFrench":1i5b2p33 said:


> I've used some thin aluminium to keep vice jaws from marking work in the past. AES's way is right of course. If you have a 52 1/2 vice with wooden jaws, that'll work too.
> 
> Brainwave - you could drill an appropriate sized hole in a block of wood, then cut it in half to get your "V" blocks. The kerf will give you a gap.



Brainwave is right. That's genius. (hammer) Thankyou.


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## AndyT

A handy source of thin aluminium would be a can of cider, unless your preferred brew comes in stoneware jars...


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## TFrench

Bm101":63fn6o37 said:


> TFrench":63fn6o37 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've used some thin aluminium to keep vice jaws from marking work in the past. AES's way is right of course. If you have a 52 1/2 vice with wooden jaws, that'll work too.
> 
> Brainwave - you could drill an appropriate sized hole in a block of wood, then cut it in half to get your "V" blocks. The kerf will give you a gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brainwave is right. That's genius. (hammer) Thankyou.
Click to expand...


Sometimes I surprise myself! :lol:


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## Bm101

Thanks Andy as always. That's a good call. My cider comes in 20 ltr cardboard bagging boxes unfortunately. On a pallet.... :-"


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## Phil Pascoe

If you could find threaded rod the correct size you could sleeve it between the "axle" and the knobs.


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## Bm101

Cheers Phil. Inventive approach. Hopefully using Musicman's advice and better grip in the vice I will be okay. Id assumed first stage cut was already open on the die. I didn't realise I had to actively open the die. Sounds daft now that I didn't think of it really. I'd assumed it was there to keep the die in the stock before using the other screws to tighten for a second cut. What else could the screw be there for. Live and learn eh? Away with work for a couple. Will post results when I get back.
Thanks all, as always your time and advice is much appreciated.
Regards 
Chris


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## Bm101

Annnnnd it goes on....

Tried Andy's ali can. No joy. 
Next step Mr French's novel approach.




Nope. Still turning.
Tried both, wrapping in ali within the 'brace'. Nope.
Tried wrapping several times. Nope.
Tried with the false jaws and above. Nope.

I'm at a loss. Wondering if it might be the vice. Trying not to blame my tools but....
Packed up today in frustration and came in and that's very unusual for me. 
I tried packing leather in the hole, all sorts. Soon as I get any resistance it turns. Gaaaah!
Starting to think about taking up MM's kind offer to do it on the lathe. :| 
The first rod has become a practice rod because I've borked it, thread is cutting okay if i could keep it still but the shaft is marked up. I have just enough left to make one more. 

 

Chris


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## Phil Pascoe

File two small flats on the other end. If you're going to put knobs on them the flats would be inside the knobs, and wouldn't matter.


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## Bm101

Dear God. Thanks Phil. I have enough spare. How did I not think of that?


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## Phil Pascoe

Because you looked at it too hard for too long.


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## chaoticbob

phil.p":nnoju6bo said:


> Because you looked at it too hard for too long.



Arf! It happens all too often...

phil.p's excellent suggestion reminded me that my Jet drill, which has 12mm arms actually has flats cut on the arms near the point where they enter the hub - presumably so you can get a spanner on them to tighten, not that I've ever felt the need. So that might be another strategy for getting a purchase on the bar.
If you're still struggling after trying Phil's suggestion you need to worry about the die you're using - there's a world of difference between cheapo or worn out old dies and spanking new Dormers, as I discovered early on in my metal manglings. 

Good luck anyway - it looks like a nice machine, well worth the effort.

Rob.


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## rxh

It was good to meet you at Cressing Temple yesterday. I mentioned the idea of drilling a hole though an aluminium block and making a saw cut from one side as far as the hole. Well, I don't like to recommend things without trying them for myself so I tried it this morning and it worked well. I didn't have a 1/2" BSF die so I used a 1/2" BSW, which probably needs more effort. You are welcome to have the block - If you would like it just send me your address by PM and I'll put it in the post.


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## MusicMan

That looks a good solution!


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## Bm101

It was a pleasure to meet you also Rxh. Thank you so much for going to so much trouble on my behalf. It is very kind and generous of you. Will send you a pm.


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## Bm101

Rxh's kind and generous help turned up in the post today. Armed with that and all the other knowledge I've gleaned from you all, I cracked on.
Thanks to Musicman, I split the die wide open. Next cut was middle screw released and two outer screws just holding the die in place. Lastly I did up them badboys to clean the thread.
Lot learnt. From tapers to die tightness to the sticky properties of aluminium. Cheers all. It's much appreciated. Really.
As always, the first one took a while as I worked it out. Second thread was about 10 minutes start to finish. Did't really bother with measuring for straight. Had faith in the eye and steady progress. Boom.












Annnnnnd just to check 'cos.... ya know....excitable... screwed into the star arm. Needs the surplus cut off but... Jobs a goodun.






Special thanks to Rxh for the ali block but thanks to you all for sharing your knowledge. It really is much appreciated. 
Regards as always,
Chris


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## MusicMan

Excellent, looks good! Happy to have helped.

Keith


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## J-G

Bm101":2c9yzzxf said:


> Next cut was middle screw released and two outer screws just holding the die in place. Lastly I did up them badboys to clean the thread.


Just a word of caution - I suspect that the thread you have cut is under-size - though it won't matter a great deal in this application - the correct size will be with the die at 'rest' ie. with all the screws just holding, effectively as your second cut.

I only mention this since now you have a die-stock you may well want to use it again (maybe buying more dies ) and the next job might need a more precise 'fit'.


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## AES

WELL DONE Bm101!

I notice you say the 2nd thread was easier than the first. Do a couple more and you'll find it (almost) as easy as falling off a log!

=D> Looks good.

P.S. +1 for J-G's comments - as he suggests, this way you can "fine tune" your thread final sizes, especially useful for refurbishing and repairing old gear.

AES


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## AndyT

I like it when we get a collective result like this and the rest of us can learn by watching - I've not seen the ali clamping block trick before.
Have you still got room for the lathe and the milling machine?


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## Bm101

Thanks JG, appreciated and noted. 

Cheers Aes. Cut the last ones today from the rest of the surplus bar because I had marked the first attempt too much. Think I cut it, ground ends, measured and cut both threads in about 10 minutes. One of those skillls. Nothing like doing it to learn it.

As an afterthought. Been mooching on Ebay for a while looking for a set of dies, job lot type deal that might fly under the radar and go cheap.
Found the most honest advert I have_ever_seen. Wonders will never cease lol.

15 Minutes left to snap up a bargain as I write this.  Read the description lol. Brilliant! Couldn't make it up.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tap-die-set-c ... 0005.m1851

Andy. I fully agree mate. What I particularly like about this one was that it's such a basic beginners issue. Yet it went from my inexperience, a bit of luck buying the dies on my holiday, to getting great advice and meeting another ukw member in real life, some real generosity of spirit and a solution found. You have to love all that and the fact a record is left for someone else who comes along wondering how to go about cutting a thread for the first time, finds this thread on the internet and is saved a shed load of aggravation.

All the best as always and thanks to all who helped.
Regards
Chris


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## TFrench

He's got his sales pitch well sorted!


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## J-G

Bm101":1us3dxi6 said:


> Tap-die-set-collectors-item-only-40-boxed-well-used-condition


Although some of those items might be capable of recovery (I doubt that the Taps would), a bigger issue (for me) would be that the dies are 'solid' rather than 'split'. I know it is possible to split them with a Dremel or similar but it's not ideal, much better to look for Dies originally manufactured as split.

Solid Dies (and Die-Nuts) are great for repairing/cleaning up damaged threads, or even as a finishing cut after starting with a split Die, but poor for cutting new threads (except maybe M3 and below).


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## Bm101

Ahh. Thanks for more useful advice.
Tbh I was impressed more by his honesty than the set JG! When the seller says 'don't buy this!' you have to wonder why they post it. 

Item description: 
*Poor quality, old kit,no good when it was made,worse now!
Sellers reminder located orange bin large 2 v large *

 I had to chuckle. 
Will keep an eye on ebay etc for a decent set at the right price. No need to rush, time is on my side so maybe I will get lucky.


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## AES

It's been said before on this Forum, several times actually, but unless you have absolutely NIL taps and dies, perhaps buying a full set is not the best way to go. Unless from a tip-top manufacturer (i.e. expensive) you probably won't get all 3 taps (taper or 1st, 2nd, & bottoming - there are other terms), AND you'll also often end up with probably a couple of sizes that you'll never use.

When I "changed systems" (moving here 30 years ago) and needed virtually all new Metric, I bought a set. But since then I've simply added to the odds n sods I inherited from my dad and already had, then adding the odd tap or die when they came up for "end of line" etc sales at shops, car boot sales (I don't go regularly), or from friends etc who've said "this might come in handy mate". These days you can of course add the bay, + local paper ads etc with job lots of people giving up, retiring, etc.

And don't forget those cheapo sets you see at Aldi, etc. Yes, they may all be made of cheese (they're not all made that way actually), but to have a cheapo set so you can deal with the odd one off thread that crops up and don't mind loosing is also a very useful back up.

Just my "cheap skate" approach, but HTH.

Only thing is, if buying odd one offs, make sure you store them safely, NOT just rattling around in a baccie tin! (I use lengths of model aero silicon fuel tubing and exhaust piping, etc, cut off to length. THEN they can go into the tin!)

AES


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## TFrench

I got the aldi set when I first moved out and got my own workshop. It's been worth it already in time saved not having to go to dad's every time I want to clean a thread out. 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## n0legs

Good work Chris =D> 
Saw the problem, worked towards a solution, achieved a result and sits back proudly with drink in hand 8) 
That's what we're all aiming for


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