# Using a Hole Saw the right way



## Bloc75 (1 Nov 2020)

Hi, first post and I should clarify that up until 3 months ago the last time I had done any serious woodwork was in school. Me and my partner decided to make a potting bench for her summer house. It actually pretty decent and professional looking. So the bug was caught. I've been stocking my garage with all the tools I am going to need, and my next project was creating a full length floating (kind of) bench for my computers and music production stations. That also looks really good and pleased with how we did it. 

However....

I have bought some nice cable grommets that need a hole cutting at around 79mm, so I got the bit for my drill. Tested it out on pine, and then on an off cut of my 27mm thick oak (which is what my floating table is made of). Ok so it took around 5 - 10 minutes to go through in the oak off cut. Bit of smoke, but it worked. I suspect that I may well be doing something wrong. I have a decent drill (did have, will come to that) 18v Makita. I bought the D-33869 BiM Holesaw bit. For some reason it wouldn't work when the drill was in the forward position, only the reverse - so that may be something I've done, or it's just the way these work - I don't know.

So anyway I thought that it worked, I can't really justify getting the TCT bits at the moment, so I dived in this morning. Lots of smoke, got about halfway through and a 4a battery had been drained from full. Hmm, so I switched to my spare battery and then smoke starting coming out the back of the drill - and then it died. I've had to order another one because I don't think it's the drill, it's me.

So my question is, does my experience cutting this oak (and even the Pine was a bit labour intensive) seem right, and if not what do I need to be doing, is the bit even the right one? 

I'm fairly a resourceful person and have learned so much with other tools, but this one has me stumped.


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## Phil Pascoe (1 Nov 2020)

They don't have the best tooth formation for wood, they're more designed for sheet metal really. Because of this, as you found, they clog. There is no way of doing what you're trying to do other than taking it very slowly and withdrawing the saw very regularly to clear it. If you keep pushing there is nowhere for the sawdust to go and it sits between the teeth and burns. A 79mm hole is a slow enough curve to cut cleanly with a jigsaw (with the right blade).


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## Bloc75 (1 Nov 2020)

Yeah if you have a steady hand, 

Hmm, would it be worth getting hold of TCT bit for this kind of stuff? 

Thanks for the clarity though - glad to know it wasn't my initial setup other than the wrong bit for the job.


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## MikeK (1 Nov 2020)

Here's the method I use with my hole saw in wood panels.


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## Bloc75 (1 Nov 2020)

Well that's genius. Thanks for that, really appreciate the advise.


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## transatlantic (1 Nov 2020)

I hate using hole saws (I'll use the router where I can). The kits you can buy for £10 or so are junk!

But using the Bosch ones, and relief holes as shown above works much better!


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## Nelsun (1 Nov 2020)

Another vote for Mike's video above^ I'm not a fan of hole saws, but drilling escape holes makes it a little less of a chore. Oh, and a side handle can help if you have one.


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## Bloc75 (1 Nov 2020)

Yeah a Router is on my list next to buy.


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## TheUnicorn (1 Nov 2020)

never a fun job, always a pain in the wrist from wrestling the drill in control, when possible I drill an escape hole, though it is hard to get it touching without it being proud of the circle. Always kills batteries with the amount of torque needed, so I try and use a mains drill if I'm making several holes (or if there is one readily to hand), I also try and keep an eye on overheating.


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## Bloc75 (1 Nov 2020)

Yeah big lesson learned today - but its all part of it for me. Making mistakes to not make them again.


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## RobinBHM (1 Nov 2020)

Tilting the drill helps - sort of in a pattern of 4, so the the hole saw is only cutting about 1/4 of the circle at a time.


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## Bloc75 (1 Nov 2020)

Lots of good advice, now does anyone have any tips on how to remove the smell of burning electrics from my garage?


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## bourbon (1 Nov 2020)

That's your next purchase then, a pillar drill with a slow speed option, keep backing the drill off to clear the teeth as has been said


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## artie (1 Nov 2020)

If possible I drill half from each side, well, I did before today.


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## TheUnicorn (1 Nov 2020)

artie said:


> If possible I drill half from each side, well, I did before today.


yes definately drill from both sides where possible, or at the very least clamp a sacrificial board to the back of the hole against tearout. Also a good idea to blow or suck out the sawdust if you can


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## TheUnicorn (1 Nov 2020)

also if I was doing a deep hole (with a handheld drill) I would probably predrill the pilot hole, my thinking being that it would be easier to drill a 90 degree hole if you can see the bit properly, rather than the holesaw blocking your view


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## Jameshow (1 Nov 2020)

Do you have a corded drill. A drill stand will help with the cutting the hole saving you a fortune on a bench drill however if your keen on woodworking a decent bench drill is a much. If your in West Yorkshire I have a drill stand spare. 

Also a quality hole saw will cut through plywood like butter. I used a Clark kit one on my camper conversion cutting steel and plywood 2" holes for waste and gas drop vents in the floor. It was toast after a couple of holes so I brought one individual one on ebay for £10 which still looks new after half a dozen holes. 

Cheers James


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## Bloc75 (1 Nov 2020)

No corded drill. It may be a future purchase.


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## TomGW (2 Nov 2020)

Bloc75 said:


> ........I have a decent drill (did have, will come to that) 18v Makita. I bought the D-33869 BiM Holesaw bit. For some reason it wouldn't work when the drill was in the forward position, only the reverse - so that may be something I've done, or it's just the way these work - I don't know.
> 
> So anyway I thought that it worked, I can't really justify getting the TCT bits at the moment, so I dived in this morning. Lots of smoke, got about halfway through and a 4a battery had been drained from full. Hmm, so I switched to my spare battery and then smoke starting coming out the back of the drill - and then it died. I've had to order another one because I don't think it's the drill, it's me.
> 
> ...



Just trying to figure this out. Does this mean that you have been attempting to cut the hole with the drill running in reverse only? Then the cordless drill has now burnt out??
If I’ve got this correct, there was something seriously wrong with your drill before you started. The hole saw is just a regular drill bit attachment and would not affect the normal rotation of the drill. If you have been attempting to fit a large dia hole in 27mm oak, running the cutter in reverse, I’m not surprised that the drill went up in smoke.


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## Bloc75 (2 Nov 2020)

TomGW said:


> Just trying to figure this out. Does this mean that you have been attempting to cut the hole with the drill running in reverse only? Then the cordless drill has now burnt out??
> If I’ve got this correct, there was something seriously wrong with your drill before you started. The hole saw is just a regular drill bit attachment and would not affect the normal rotation of the drill. If you have been attempting to fit a large dia hole in 27mm oak, running the cutter in reverse, I’m not surprised that the drill went up in smoke.



When I had the drill in forward it would just stick, it just wouldn't move in the wood. Even when I tested it in pine, mdf and plywood. All the same. I checked online and read somewhere that it didn't matter - but like I said in my OP I was suspicious of this. But as I got it to work, albeit slowly I went with it.

I honestly couldn't understand why it wouldn't bite going forward.


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## Droogs (2 Nov 2020)

The set on the saw teeth was too wide and the machine was trying to create too large a kerf. Also the drill may have had a low battery or just was not powerful enough for the type and thickness of wood. Or as a beginner you were applying too much downward pressure. When using a saw of any kind you are meant to let the saw do the work and it's own weight will make it go down.
So to me it appears to be and in no way to denigrate you the type of error seen in the IT industry everyday known as an EBCAD system failure. Error Between Chair And Desk.

Possibly an expensive lesson but one I am sure you will learn from and always remember. Don't force the tool *ever*, let it just do it's thing. If it takes time then it takes time. Also on holes that size it is best to use a static drill on a stand or a pillar drill.

_edit typos_


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## Bloc75 (2 Nov 2020)

These pillar drills worth getting if I don't plan on doing that many holes? I think the previous posts about doing some smaller escape holes, and like you have said don't apply too much pressure, I should have better results and a drill that survives.


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## minilathe22 (2 Nov 2020)

Many battery drills have a 2 speed gearbox, I find with larger holesaws the slower speed works better. Does your new drill have this? Agree with many others here, holesaws are a bit troublesome, a proper forstner bit will do it better, but at a higher cost. and They dont work too well unless held securely like in a pillar drill.


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## Bloc75 (2 Nov 2020)

It does have 2 speeds and I had it on the slowest. But I know what happened, and it makes sense. It's a mistake I won't be making a 2nd time.


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## RobinBHM (2 Nov 2020)

A mate of mine cut slots in his hile saw when doing 79mm holes for desk cables

surprisingly it worked well, it helped clear the swarf.


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## Droogs (2 Nov 2020)

If you don't plan on doing lots of holes then follow the video. But you will be surprised at how often you end up using a pillar drill if you have a decent one. Especially if those holes must be at a certain angle and true


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## Nelsun (2 Nov 2020)

Droogs said:


> So to me it appears to be and in no way to denigrate you the type of error seen in the IT industry everyday known as an EBCAD system failure. Error Between Chair And Desk.


Not directed at the OP in any way but, as an aside, in my line of work I frequently have PICNICs - Problem In Chair Not In Computer.

Anyway... for times when only a hand drill will do, I've heard folk say to use the clutch to stop the bit if it catches and taking your wrists along for the ride. I've not tried that (my drill has some arcane wizardry in it that's saved my wrists a few times) but others may have and can comment of the effectiveness and how high to set the clutch?


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## Bloc75 (2 Nov 2020)

Sorry to sound like a rookie, but where is their a clutch on my drill? I have 2 settings on the top 1 and 2. Then my hammer, screw and drill settings and then torque.

My day job is a computer programmer, and I know all about PICNICs, especially when working with computer illiterates. 

If it's a problem with me I have no issue with accepting that criticism, it's how you learn sometimes.


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## Droogs (2 Nov 2020)

By clutch he means Torque settings. When you rotate the dial to one of the numbers you are setting the slip point for the internal clutch in the drill gearbox.

Each manufacturer has slightly different settings. When putting in a screw it will be on a low one and is increased as you want more pressure squeezing the 2 bits of wood together or you want the head of the screw to be at a certain point eg flush with the surface or just above or below by a bit or a bigger bit if you are going to use a wooden plug to hide the screw, when you are finally screwing them together. the drill should have a setting for drilling where the clutch is disengaged and the motor will continue to turn the chuck (which is now fixed and will not slip) no matter what and if the bit can't turn then Newtons kicks in and the drill will and wrench your wrist. I can be very painful at times. To help avoid that you can instead use on e of the slip settings to stop that happening

hth


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## Bloc75 (2 Nov 2020)

Droogs said:


> By clutch he means Torque settings. When you rotate the dial to one of the numbers you are setting the slip point for the internal clutch in the drill gearbox.
> 
> Each manufacturer has slightly different settings. When putting in a screw it will be on a low one and is increased as you want more pressure squeezing the 2 bits of wood together or you want the head of the screw to be at a certain point eg flush with the surface or just above or below by a bit or a bigger bit if you are going to use a wooden plug to hide the screw, when you are finally screwing them together. the drill should have a setting for drilling where the clutch is disengaged and the motor will continue to turn the chuck (which is now fixed and will not slip) no matter what and if the bit can't turn then Newtons kicks in and the drill will and wrench your wrist. I can be very painful at times. To help avoid that you can instead use on e of the slip settings to stop that happening
> 
> hth



Yeah that helps massively. Thanks, I appreciate it.


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## Nelsun (2 Nov 2020)

Bloc75 said:


> My day job is a computer programmer, and I know all about PICNICs, especially when working with computer illiterates.
> 
> If it's a problem with me I have no issue with accepting that criticism, it's how you learn sometimes.


Not having a pop at you at all - I was just reminded of PICNICs from Droogs earlier comment. I'm a firm believer in asking questions when I don't understand something.

It's well worth having a play around with the clutch settings as it's incredibly handy for sinking screws just right - or leaving some slack to finish tightening by hand when doing something delicate.


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## Bloc75 (2 Nov 2020)

Nelsun said:


> Not having a pop at you at all - I was just reminded of PICNICs from Droogs earlier comment. I'm a firm believer in asking questions when I don't understand something.
> 
> It's well worth having a play around with the clutch settings as it's incredibly handy for sinking screws just right - or leaving some slack to finish tightening by hand when doing something delicate.



Yeah I know I didn't mean it like that. I just prefer to know its me and not something else. 

Well as soon as my replacement drill arrives this week I'll have a go at the clutch settings.


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## weekend_woodworker (3 Nov 2020)

Bloc75 said:


> Yeah I know I didn't mean it like that. I just prefer to know its me and not something else.
> 
> Well as soon as my replacement drill arrives this week I'll have a go at the clutch settings.


Whilst it is by no means the best Pilar drill, I picked one up at Aldi a few years ago for £60, which has been fantastic and gets lots of use. You can set it for slow speed with lots of torque which is useful for large holes or drilling really hard materials.


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## pe2dave (3 Nov 2020)

Guess: Large hole, hard wood, 'deep' cut.
Unless the hole saw is vertical there's an aweful lot of friction, wood to hole saw? This may be why it worked
in reverse? Less friction.
In a pillar drill, you'd stay aligned better, longer and have more power behind the cut?
Is RTFM applicable? Quite possible the hole saw didn't have that manual.
HTH


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