# Taylor Brothers Tenon Saw



## MickCheese (14 Sep 2011)

I have just bought this.






Is marked Taylor Brothers Sheffield on the brass back

And





Taylor Brother Adelaide Works on the blade beneath a seated ram with a flag




Logo borrowed from http://www.wkfinetools.com

It is 14" long with a tapered 10" blade and 16TPI.

I bought it for £4.99 and intended to clean up, re-finish the handle, polish the brass back and give it as a present to a relative, but, having held it I have found it to be the most comfortable and well balanced tenon saw I have held so am now tempted to keep it for myself.

It is very blunt and I don't have the confidence or a saw set that will sharpen below 12TPI so I will try Southern Counties Saws in High Wycombe to get it sharpened.

Should I get it sharpened before I refinish the handle or after?

I cannot find much about Taylor Brothers on the internet other than a location in Sheffield and the logo above.

Anyone know any more and maybe even have a guess at dating the saw.

Thanks

Mick


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## Harbo (14 Sep 2011)

They were in Burnt Tree Lane 1849 to 1854, 58 Meadow Street 1855 and Mowbray Street 1856 to 1915.

Rod


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## jimi43 (14 Sep 2011)

BEEEUTIFUL saw Mick...and bargain price...you can afford to get it sharpened now mate. =D> 

Why do you want to refinish the handle? It's part of the history and if it isn't broken...I'd leave it just like that...maybe put some beeswax or Renaissance Wax on it.

Jim


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## MickCheese (15 Sep 2011)

Harbo":20bvazy6 said:


> They were in Burnt Tree Lane 1849 to 1854, 58 Meadow Street 1855 and Mowbray Street 1856 to 1915.
> 
> Rod



Thanks Rod

So that suggests it could be more than 100 years old?



jimi43":20bvazy6 said:


> BEEEUTIFUL saw Mick...and bargain price...you can afford to get it sharpened now mate. =D>
> 
> Why do you want to refinish the handle? It's part of the history and if it isn't broken...I'd leave it just like that...maybe put some beeswax or Renaissance Wax on it.
> 
> Jim



Jim

It's not been looked after and a bit chewed up in places, but maybe you are right.

I think I will get it sharpened and use it then wait and see how I feel.

It's very heavy for a small saw

Mick


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## Harbo (15 Sep 2011)

!00 years old - it could be?

It's funny - I am of an age that 1915 does not seem that far away!  

Rod


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## MickCheese (15 Sep 2011)

Droped it off the be sharpened, wouldn't have cut a piece of cheese as it was so blunt.

Will be done in a week and cost £8.00.

Mick


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## DTR (15 Sep 2011)

MickCheese":39xblp40 said:


> Will be done in a week and cost £8.00.
> 
> Mick



As little as that? :shock: I eagerly await your verdict on the results


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## MickCheese (15 Sep 2011)

I have used them before for a couple of table saw blades. They were very good.

I think it is more than just a sharpen, I think the teeth will need re-cutting so £8 is a good price.

I will let you know how the handsaw fairs.

Mick


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## Corneel (16 Sep 2011)

For 8 pound I can't immagine they''ll do anything more then punching new teeth. They probably have a machine like that. When I started on handsaws I used a sharpening shop just like that. It took a while to realise that I got perfectly shaped teeth that weren't very sharp. Sharpening a saw is done with a triangular file. An expensive job. I decided to learn it myself.


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## MickCheese (16 Sep 2011)

Unfortunately at 16TPI and very blunt I couldn't really see the teeth. I don't have a set that will do a saw that fine either.

I will see how it is when I get it back next Thursday. If it is just re-cut then I will have a go at sharpening the new teeth with the small triangular file I have.

Mick


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## Sawyer (16 Sep 2011)

Good to see such a good saw being given a new lease of life. Enjoy it.


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## xy mosian (16 Sep 2011)

Quoting Matthewh 
" Hammer setting is the traditional method for setting fine teeth. I've had a go once with reasonable success, you need to shape the end of a nail to make the hammer, a reasonably sturdy lump of flat steel with an edge filed away for the anvil and something to clamp over the top to prevent the plate from deforming below the toothline. Clamp it all up and then just tap every other tooth over onto the anvil. Flip the saw and do the ones in between and (very) gently stone the sides to ensure that the set is dead level and the saw doesn't track. "

from:- saw-tooth-setting-advice-t41756.html

Now I have not tried this but it seems very reasonable. However there are folk who believe that set on a fine tooth saw which is used for dry wood is not really necessary. There are also modifications to Eclipse saw sets described in the same thread. 

HTH
xy


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## MickCheese (22 Sep 2011)

I have copied this here from another thread just to finish this one off.

I can now report back on Southern Counties Saws in High Wycombe.

I don't know how a saw can get so blunt, surely before it gets that bad it is not worth using? Whoever owned the saw before me must have been cutting metal with it.

Well I have just picked it up and it's is now perfect, really sharp, cuts straight as a die, the teeth are even both in their height and the set.

I have tried it on a few pieces of very dry oak, it cuts really well and quite fast for a fine saw. It leaves behind a very smooth and shiny surface. 

It rip cuts and cross cuts equally well, something I did not expect.

So for £8.60 I got a real bargain as not only did it merely need sharpening but the teeth were so bad they had to be re-cut.

I have had my table saw blades sharpened there but never a handsaw.

Very pleased, would definitely use then again and recommend them to others. 

Mick


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## jimi43 (22 Sep 2011)

Great news Mick...you would be surprised how beautiful these old saws are when tuned up properly and renovated.

When Pedder did my little Robert Sorby (AKA Robert)....the result was astounding...mind you it *was *Pedder... :mrgreen: 8) 

I go for it every other day...the other day I go for the Huntley Oak Japanese saw I bought...depending on the application and mood!

Glad you are so happy...so...whatcha going to do with the handle?

More pics please....I love saw porn!

Jim


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## MickCheese (22 Sep 2011)

Jim

I am just going to use it for now.

It fits my hand perfectly so if I did anything it would merely be to cut back the finish and re-finish with some Tru-oil.

I bought some Tue-oil following your recommendation and it is really easy to use and leaves a very nice finish.

Mick


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## soulboy (7 Nov 2011)

Harbo":3q0fz011 said:


> They were in Burnt Tree Lane 1849 to 1854, 58 Meadow Street 1855 and Mowbray Street 1856 to 1915. Rod



Hi All, as a beginner on all the 'slippery slopes', egg beaters, planes, screwdrivers, etc I picked up a little saw this weekend, 8", steel-back, open-handled and stamped 'URNTTREE WORMS'. could it be an early Taylor Bros?
At the same boot sale I also bought a 12" steel-back stamped John Cockerill, Sheffield. From what I've read in old posts, this might be a good saw?
Although I do want to re-discover saw sharpening, I wouldn't want to 'improve' a good saw beyond use, any recommendations for a saw doctor? 
Thx chris


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## MickCheese (7 Nov 2011)

Could it say "Burnt Tree Works"?

This saw has quickly become the saw I reach for first, I really love it. It sits comfortably in my hand is razor sharp and cuts a very accurate line (even in my hands).

Best of luck with it.

Mick


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## jimi43 (7 Nov 2011)

soulboy":1koqayhp said:


> Although I do want to re-discover saw sharpening, I wouldn't want to 'improve' a good saw beyond use, any recommendations for a saw doctor?
> Thx chris



Hi Chris

Without doubt...Pedder in Germany....he is a member here...see his "Gent's Saw" thread for his PM.

Jimi


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## soulboy (7 Nov 2011)

MickCheese":3i80u6c7 said:


> Could it say "Burnt Tree Works"? Mick


It undoubtably does Mick, but does that mean it is necessarily a Taylor? 
chris


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## soulboy (7 Nov 2011)

jimi43
Hi Chris
Without doubt...Pedder in Germany....he is a member here...see his "Gent's Saw" thread for his PM.
Jimi[/quote said:


> Thanks Jimi, I did think about Pedder and wondered if it was worth sending them that far as I'm unsure of their quality, of course pics might help with IDing them so will get onto that.
> regards chris


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## jimi43 (7 Nov 2011)

soulboy":jqfqrqr5 said:


> jimi43
> Hi Chris
> Without doubt...Pedder in Germany....he is a member here...see his "Gent's Saw" thread for his PM.
> Jimi[/quote:jqfqrqr5 said:
> ...


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## pedder (8 Nov 2011)

soulboy":763xw3u6 said:


> jimi43":763xw3u6 said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Chris
> ...



Hi Chris,

I would try to sharpen her myself first. If you don't succeed there is plenty time to send to a sharpening service. 

Sending her 2X cross europe is one of the most expensive options. If I would be you, I would try the cheap local service first. 

At least for a rip cut saw. 

Cheers 
Pedder


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## MickCheese (8 Nov 2011)

soulboy":ympa4y1o said:


> MickCheese":ympa4y1o said:
> 
> 
> > Could it say "Burnt Tree Works"? Mick
> ...



Sorry, I did state the obvious. :lol: 

My Taylor saw has Adelaide Works etched on the blade.

Have a look here for the Burnt Tree Works stamp, a bit out of focus but may give you a clue.

http://www.backsaw.net/cpg/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=0&pid=390#top_display_media

Mick


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## soulboy (8 Nov 2011)

hello all, thanks for the replies, Jim, I really wasn't doubting his Pedder-gree {see what I did there? } just my finances. 
Mick, I kid myself that i am witty and was making reference to another mis-read stamp  , thanks for the link, the font is the same but it, she, doesn't have the 'tooth' emblem. I guess she is a Taylor-ess then. What is the date of yours?
http://s1083.photobucket.com/albums/j384/chriswad/
Pedder, thanks for your input too, I will try sharpening myself when I have made some chops.
regards to all participants, chris


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