# Running MDF doors the easy way



## Doctor (21 Dec 2010)

Hi,

As promised heres how I run MDF doors with a single router which never needs adjusting.

The router is mounted in a table, the cutter is a 9mm goover, 9mm space, 9mm groover we use a bearing but its not necessary.












The fence is set to the appropriate depth of cut, ie, 12mm or 15mm or 18mm whatever depth you use.

You'll see that the fence is set so there is a 9mm gap at the bottom (like a groove).

The height of the cutter is set for running the tenons.


The tenons can the be run with the guard in place, we use a guard that is adjustable and can be locked at any height by toggle clamps.

Then to run the groove we just insert the 9mm false bed which locks in place by sliding into the 9mm slot at the bottom of the fence.




















Once set up we can run 25mm or 22mm doors without altering anything, and the guard is adjusted accordingly.

It works because we use a false bed the same thickness as the door panel.

You can see I have marked each bed up "tenon" or "groove" face down to make it fool proof :lol: :lol: 


This set up saves me loads of setting up time, a door can be run in 2 minutes easy.

Hand made kitchens herts


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## mailee (21 Dec 2010)

Now that is a damn good idea Doc. Just wondering if I can adapt it as I normally use 18mm for doors in MDF?


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## Paul Chapman (21 Dec 2010)

Brilliant. Thanks for posting, Bob.

Cheers :ho2 

Paul


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## Doctor (22 Dec 2010)

mailee":34n76vxl said:


> Now that is a damn good idea Doc. Just wondering if I can adapt it as I normally use 18mm for doors in MDF?



I presume you use a 6mm panel, therefore the false bed needs to be 6mm and the top groover 6mm, I think it should work then.


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## tisdai (22 Dec 2010)

Thanks Doc, looks a great and a quick way. As you say, when doing it I will wright on the table top as well or i know it will not be silly person proof (homer) 

Cheers

Dave


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## petermillard (24 Dec 2010)

If I've read this right, you cut the tenons in MDF as well?? I've always used loose tenons (running the groove around three sides of the rail) assuming a tenon cut in MDF wouldn't be strong enough - I'll have to try it and see!

Thanks for the tip, and have a great Christmas all!

Pete


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## chippy1970 (29 Dec 2010)

petermillard":1884nzky said:


> If I've read this right, you cut the tenons in MDF as well?? I've always used loose tenons (running the groove around three sides of the rail) assuming a tenon cut in MDF wouldn't be strong enough - I'll have to try it and see!
> 
> Thanks for the tip, and have a great Christmas all!
> 
> Pete



I use to do them with real tenons but the last few jobs Ive used loose mdf tenons (just offcuts of the 6mm panels) its much quicker.


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## Doctor (3 Jan 2011)

chippy1970":1mw5goeg said:


> I use to do them with real tenons but the last few jobs Ive used loose mdf tenons (just offcuts of the 6mm panels) its much quicker.



Yes but this way is quicker as you don't have to cut loose tenons, or alter the router. It's also a better joint as it's a true tenon.


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## mahomo59 (11 Aug 2013)

Sorry to drag up an old post... I'm sure there is a much more current one. 

Can anyone help me with part no's from wealdons so I can set up the 9mm cutters and spacer for a 1/2 inch router table. 

I need to speed up my working process. Making 22mm doors with 9mm mrmdf panels. 

Cheers guys. 

Had some great help previously from Alan (maliee) cheers mate. Haven't posted for ages, wife is battling lymphoma cancer. Chemo sucks!!! But she's on the mend hopefully. Upgrading dinning room, to include Alcove cupboards.


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## Eric The Viking (14 Aug 2013)

This set will do up to 8mm:

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Frame_Jointing_Set_260.html

There's a 9.5mm one in this lot:

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Groover_134.html

I have one of the Axminster rail+stile sets, essentially the same idea as Doc's system, 
but the tongues/panel grooves are 6.3mm - reasonable for small doors, I guess. 

I haven't used it yet, but it was bought on Steve Maskery's advice - the huge advantage 
of the system for people like me (who make mistakes) is that you can quickly reset for 
either rail or stile (or panel), if you mess something up down the line.

I can see that neither 9.5 nor 8mm is ideal, but could you live with 8mm instead (Wealden)
and work it differently, say with a 1mm "rebate" on the back of the panel, or just use 8mm 
sheet instead?

Sadly I don't think Doctor is around these parts these days to ask where the 
cutters came from. It'll be nice if I'm corrected on that.

It might be worth emailing Wealden - they're both responsive and helpful.

Also, possibly try Titman in Essex. I haven't used them, 
but they have a good reputation, although not inexpensive exactly. The manufacture here, 
I believe, too.



E.


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## Lester Burnham (22 Aug 2013)

I saw the original thread from Doctor re this method and use it all the time. It is superb and I can make a door in a couple of minutes. Made 12 of varying sizes yesterday for a kitchen I am making at the moment. I usually use 25mm mrmdf for stiles and rails, and use 9mm mdf for the panel. I have also made oak doors, again sized to 25mm with a 9mm panel.
It is so quick. I got all the cutters from wealdons. I used the 9.5mm ones listed above. I needed to buy an extension for the router as the cutters need to be a fair height above the router table. I actually keep the cutters in the extension permanantly as I use this method so frequently. I have the original boxes from Wealdons so can get the part numbers if you need any clarification, but I think Eric covered it and im enjoying a large vodka and coke so perhaps should wait until the morning until venturing into my dusty workshop.
Good luck.
LB.


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## mahomo59 (11 Sep 2013)

Lester I'd love the all the part no. 

Cheers

James


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## Jack in Nepean (10 Nov 2013)

Very, very smart ideas there. 

Cheers

Jack
If it wasn't for us lazy people, the wheel would never have been invented.


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