# Fixing studwork to concrete floor



## xraymtb (10 Aug 2014)

Can anyone with knowledge of studwork recommend the preferred or best method for fixing a sole plate to a concrete garage floor? 

A Google suggests everything from concrete screws, plugs, tapcons, sleeve bolts, glue etc. 

Also, do I need to worry about piercing a DPM? My head says no but Google could make you question your own name sometimes...


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## WillRiseley (10 Aug 2014)

I'd go with the following.

Hard way- drill and epoxy threaded rod into the slab then fix plate down with washers and nuts

Easy way- drill through plate and into slab with a 6.5mm sds bit then put in a concrete screw/thunderbolt (they have a bunch of names) job done


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## carlb40 (10 Aug 2014)

I normally just use 4 inch no 12 screws with brown plugs, never had any problems so far. That is how i fixed my sole plate in my workshop, along with a separate dpm between the timber / concrete.


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## xraymtb (10 Aug 2014)

Is the separate DPM really necessary?


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## RobinBHM (10 Aug 2014)

I think concrete screws would work well, drill size is critical for them to work and if you have to remove one if it doesnt drive home it probably wont tighten in the same hole, so a new hole is best. I buy mine from leofixings.

If the floor has a dpm, I expect the concrete oversite slab in a garage to be a minimum of 100mm, so unless your drilling for oil, you shouldnt go through it. If the screw has 60 to 70mm cover in the concrete it should bite in well.


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## Alex_E (10 Aug 2014)

We always just brown 7mm plug and screw with 4" screws. Never had an issue either!


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## owen (10 Aug 2014)

Drill with a long 6 mm Sds and use "torx" fixings. You won't need many one every meter or so will be fine


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## Lons (10 Aug 2014)

Mike Bremner":3ncyddwy said:


> Can anyone with knowledge of studwork recommend the preferred or best method for fixing a sole plate to a concrete garage floor?
> 
> A Google suggests everything from concrete screws, plugs, tapcons, sleeve bolts, glue etc.
> 
> Also, do I need to worry about piercing a DPM? My head says no but Google could make you question your own name sometimes...



Depends what the soleplate is for Mike.

Is it to construct a stud wall, floor to ceiling high which will be fixed at the top also? If so the easiest and quickest way is just drill a pilot hole through the timber, place in position, drill through with a masonary bit and fix with screwfixings or hammerfixings, both work very well. Not a lot of difference for your application except that screwfixings are easier to remove - but why would you want to do that? - You're going to get it right first time aren't you? :wink: 

Loading is downwards and the top fixings prevent it moving anyway so it's pretty much foolproof. I've built hundreds of stud walls not one of which has moved at all.
I'm a builder btw and as it's my own company, built purely on reputation I can't afford it to be wrong and I'm very happy with the method. The internal walls of my own extension and that of my sons are fixed that way.

Assuming your floor has a dpm (not all have), you definitely don't want to pierce the membrane, it's there for a reason


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## xraymtb (10 Aug 2014)

It's a simple partition wall in the garage to split the workshop from the bikes and things.


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## Zeddedhed (10 Aug 2014)

If the wall is not going to have a doorway in it you can even build it with a friction fit and put a fat bead of grip fill under the sole plate. This can actually be surprisingly strong and sometimes is the only way to fit a sole plate.
For example if you're installing on to a screeded floor with underfloor heating below.
You do need to make sure that all the vertical studs are damned tight though - lots of walloping with the 'persuader'.


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## midnightlunchbox (10 Aug 2014)

I agree with the fixing methods stated, they will all work fine. Personally, we usually go with spit hammer fixings (or whatever folk want to call them). Just bore a hold and knock them in. 

As for your DPM, I'm not sure what the regs in Englandshire are but up here there should be a minimum of 100mm concrete on a garage type floor. That being the case, you would struggle to get fixings long enough to pierce the DPM. If your floor doesn't have a DPM (which is probably unlikely) you could lay a DPC under your partition but it won't stop rising damp over the rest of the floor.


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## Phil Pascoe (10 Aug 2014)

If you're worried about the DPM and the wall is fixed at the top and sides, a few good blobs of gripfill or something will keep it in place while building. It's only a partition in your garage - no one'll steal it.


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## kostello (10 Aug 2014)

A 1/4" hole in plate and floor with 2 4" nails hammered home fix just about anything


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## Lons (10 Aug 2014)

Mike Bremner":1cr0juyj said:


> It's a simple partition wall in the garage to split the workshop from the bikes and things.



You won't have any problems Mike

If you're concerned, pm me and I'll give you my mobile.
Or ring you if you send me yours. I'm just north of Morpeth

Bob


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## xraymtb (10 Aug 2014)

Job done. Brown plugs and screws seemed to be fine and once I knocked the studs in the whole thing is nice and solid. Thanks for all the replies.


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