# Finishing new oak staircase



## Bob M (12 Apr 2009)

Newbie here!!
Looking for advice on best finish for a new square spiral oak staircase just made and being fitted at home at the moment.
Prefer silk/mat finish, want to maintain the original colour or as near as, need to apply it myself, spraying not an option as fairly confined, would need to be applied by brush or cloth as I have the best part of 80+ turned spindles to do plus deep strings.

All help gratefully received. :?:


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## cornucopia (12 Apr 2009)

hello and welcome
I used osmo poly x oil on a large staircase - satin finish, superb finish straight from the brush. my customers were very happy with it. only down side was that it has a long open time so any dust traffic etc is a pain.
my advice would be to try a test area first to see the colour difference.
another option we looked at for this staircase was liberon's danish oil which has a uv inhibitor in it, it altered the woods appearance allot more than the osmo did


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## p111dom (12 Apr 2009)

I would have to agree. I know a stair maker who makes them in his shop, applies two coats of cellulose sanding sealer and then finished with Osmo when on site. That will give you the finish you're after. To be honest I think the sanding sealer is more to give the wood a bit of protection if other traded are still on site. He apples the final finish after a light sanding where required to any paint or plaster marks that invariably get onto the wood during a build.


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## Derek Willis. (12 Apr 2009)

Look at Rustins plastic coating, I have used it for the past year or more on all of my Oak projects, absolutely superb for finish and durability, may be semi-gloss or matt. Dilute the finish and brush on, one coat is enough, and done in next to no time. Check my gallery for some of the Oak projects for finish and colour.
Derek.


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## Bob M (12 Apr 2009)

Thanks Gents.
I will have a look at Derek's projects and also check out the osmo range but I'm not sure if we have an agent on the Island.
Luckily this project and the room can be sealed of for a week or two after I have finished it, and we only have the electrician to come it to fit one light switch then it's mine.
This is not a high wear area, only me and she who must be obeyed and the staircase will only be used 4-5 times a day, my main concern was the treads as being a square spiral the are rather large.
Would using Osmo poly x require two coats with a flat in between!! and would you suggest a polish over the top.
Thanks for your reccommendations.


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## cornucopia (12 Apr 2009)

osmo reccomends 2-3 coats de nibbing between with a synthetic pad like nyweb (dont use wire wool on oak) no further finish to add on top- it comes in satin or gloss- i used satin and i will definatley use it again.


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## Oryxdesign (12 Apr 2009)

I use both Osmo and Rustins they are both great and will probably both give the desired effect.
Osmo is very easy to apply, patch repair damage and add coats to as the years go by. Brushes are easy to clean.
Rustins is much harder to apply, messier and much smellier. Brushes are hard to clean.
The Osmo overall I think gives a more natural finish. Rustins gives a harder coat but isn't necessary harder wearing.
Hope that helps you make your decision as both are very good products.
I'm sure AG Woodcare would ship you what you need.
Si


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## JonnyD (12 Apr 2009)

I am a fan of Osmo Polyx oil which gives a good natural finish that is easy to maintain. I have been finishing my staircases recently with a very similar product from fiddes.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... =1&jump=44

The Fiddes is as easy to apply as the Osmo oil but it seems to be a bit thicker with more solids in it than the osmo and it seems to me that it is a harder finish once cured.

Jon


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## Bob M (13 Apr 2009)

Thanks Gents.
Seems we do have an Osmo dealer on the Island so will give him a visit, just one further point would you use the standard or rapid poly x, would also appreciate advice on brush types to use, and would a roller be the thing to use on the strings, if so which type.

Once again thanks for all your advice.


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## Oryxdesign (13 Apr 2009)

I would use a white foam 4" gloss roller on most of it and just do the corners with a brush. If you need to buy enough that you need two tins I would start with a coat of the extra thin which will really soak in and finish off with a coat or two of the polyx (I like the 3062). If you do most of it with a roller the brush isn't too critical. I've never used the rapid but it might suit you for a staircase if it's in use.


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## cornucopia (13 Apr 2009)

i would do it all by brush- i would reccomend a good quality synthetic- purdy pro extra or monarch elite would be ideal.
the problem with doing part of it by brush and part by roller is you can get roller marks-lose your wet edge and have picture framing issues between roller/brush areas- if you know what your doing and are quick enough you could lay of the roller marks etc but you don't seem overly experienced so i would reccomend sticking with a brush and working in a methodical fashion.


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## Bob M (5 May 2009)

Gents.
Thanks for all your helpful tips so far, I will try and post a picture or two in a day or so, gone with Polyx in the satin finish for the staircase and the matt for a large 10 ft high x 16ft long bookcase built next to it.
Good advice re the brushes cornucopia, went for the purdy's got a selection of the pro and monarchs and webrax pads on the way as well.
Final thought after applying 1st coat I assume the grain will stick up a bit so I take it a good de nib will be required, how long does the polyx take before it can be sanded and would you suggest 48hrs between coats, I can leave it longer as this room only has on door in/out and can be locked to keep wife, cats etc out.
You guys are lucky, got all these shops to visit, everything I need has to be ordered, nothing like seeing before buying!!

Bob M.


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