# Inghamish box...DUN...and Re-visited



## woodbloke (8 Jan 2011)

This is the start of a small box in the style of one's developed by Robert Ingham. I've just finished sawing the material for it: 







The carcass timber is going to be 9mm birch ply, with 3mm burr elm veneers over the top and on the inside of the lid. Each segment of the box will be made from squares of burr elm with African Ebony in between. The mahogany is the balancer veneer inside the box...it's not going to be seen. The burr elm bookmatched panel will be on the underside of the base. Difficult to describe, but it will be a much smaller version of: 






...this sort of thing, with only 3 large squares (front) an 3 oblongs (lid) panels at the front. It's going to be a fairly complex build :shock: - Rob


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## Ian (8 Jan 2011)

I look forward to seeing the build.

Cheers

Ian


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## mtr1 (9 Jan 2011)

Looks good Rob, I'm assuming you have cut your own veneer? Where did you purchase this lump of burr from? or is it just a turning blank?


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## woodbloke (9 Jan 2011)

mtr1":oinuki02 said:


> Looks good Rob, I'm assuming you have cut your own veneer? Where did you purchase this lump of burr from? or is it just a turning blank?


The veneers were easy to cut on the bandsaw and the burr elm was bought at Yandles a couple of years ago...I think it was a turning blank, but far too nice for the spinny side  - Rob


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## jumps (9 Jan 2011)

Ian":2d4ghjo2 said:


> I look forward to seeing the build.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Ian



me too -- there's a lot of things going on here and I look forward to learning!


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## woodbloke (23 Jan 2011)

A little bit more has been done on this one, bearing in mind that it's still cold in the 'shop. The slightly warmer weather a couple of weeks ago enabled me to get the veneering done without too much of a problem and today:






each of the pieces has gone into the first jig which levels everything to a consistent 14mm. The next thing to do will be to cut each of the pieces into squares and rectangles, then use the 'shute to get them true before gluing in the next jig - Rob


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## TrimTheKing (24 Jan 2011)

Interesting one Rob, looking forward to seeing it develop.

Cheers
Mark


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## dh7892 (24 Jan 2011)

I like that jig Rob. I was going to ask you how you square up the parts as I've had great difficulty in the past with that kind of thing.


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## woodbloke (24 Jan 2011)

dh7892":38dv0nbo said:


> I like that jig Rob. I was going to ask you how you square up the parts as I've had great difficulty in the past with that kind of thing.


All I intend to do is to use the shooting board with my LN No9. The pieces are really too small to square up safely on a table saw and fence, which is the other way of doing it. The learning process here for me is quite a steep one and even RI admits that this sort of checker board assembly presents a real challenge. The actual design is fairly minimalist, but it's the building of the component parts that's going to be a bit tricky 8-[ 
Once each of the bits has been made square, there needs to be a 4mm deep groove made in each joining part for a ply tongue - Rob


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## andersonec (29 Jan 2011)

Rob, See here. http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=501


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## woodbloke (29 Jan 2011)

andersonec":1f8f1tpg said:


> Rob, See here. http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=501


I've studied that article _ad infinitum_ and also the original text in F&C (wherein which a fotocopy is nailed to the 'shop wall)...RI doesn't give much away :wink: - Rob


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## woodbloke (15 Feb 2011)

Little bit of an update on this one: 






The sides have been finished with a small rebate cut (around a mm) to make sure that all the corner posts are the same thickness. The four sides are just assembled dry, no glue yet. The top and the centre ebony section (once the lid's been cut off) will have more 3mm thick inlay applied on top of the box and the underside of the lid to bring the thickness up to 12mm, with the corners mitred so there won't be any end grain showing. The lid will have a burr elm veneered panel inset in a rebate with further divisions of 12mm ebony across it to line up with the sides of the box...in theory [-o< The mahogany will be completely covered by the lining which will be in birds eye maple, kindly donated to the cause by Waka :wink: :-" - Rob


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## Paul Chapman (15 Feb 2011)

Looking good, Rob.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## RogerM (16 Feb 2011)

Looking very nice Rob. I like the thicknessing jig and have made a mental note to file that one away. Could perhaps the sides be squared up on a router table?


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## woodbloke (18 Feb 2011)

RogerM":1210ypcb said:


> Could perhaps the sides be squared up on a router table?


They could, I suppose if a jig of some sort were made, but it's just as easy to square them up using the shooting board, both pairs can then be shot in so that they're exactly equal in length - Rob


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## woodbloke (13 Mar 2011)

Further progress on this project:






The top has been fitted dry and the grooves for the ebony inlay made, using the sides of the box as a ref for the router fence. Once that's been done, I took out the lid and:






flipped it over to groove the underside to match the inside of the box. The grooves have been in-filled with ebony this afternoon. The base has also been routed, glued and fitted this morning. The rebate round the outside of the lid will be filled with more ebony mitred at the corners to cover the end grain of the corner posts. The thin strip in the middle will have the same sort of treatment, once the box and lid have been separated. Comments, as ever, very welcome - Rob


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## TheTiddles (13 Mar 2011)

Are you going to keep tissues in it? 

Aidan


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## woodbloke (13 Mar 2011)

TheTiddles":2gbrnuzk said:


> Are you going to keep tissues in it?
> 
> Aidan



Nope...already got:






...one of those :lol: - Rob


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## woodbloke (28 Mar 2011)

The lid has now gone in and all the black inlay has been applied to the top:






It's had it's first provisional sanding with 180g Abranet and there's a little bit of tear out in the closest corner which ought to come out with further sanding later on.

The base doesn't look too bad either:






The next job is to cut it in half and then fit more ebony to the saw lines to bring the total thickness back up to 12mm. Comments welcome as ever - Rob


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## Paul Chapman (28 Mar 2011)

Looking good, Rob.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## RogerM (28 Mar 2011)

That's looking fabulous Rob. Seems such a shame to conceal that book matched bottom though. What's the finish going to be?


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## HeathRobinson (30 Mar 2011)

TheTiddles":2em5yx6r said:


> Are you going to keep tissues in it?
> 
> Aidan



:lol: That comment had me in stitches. Excellent work, Rob.

Simon


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## Mr T (30 Mar 2011)

Hi Rob

I haven't really thought this through properly, but would it have been possible to have veneered the sides with the elm burr then route grooves into it to take the ebony strips.

Chris


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## woodbloke (30 Mar 2011)

Mr T":2485z1ak said:


> Hi Rob
> 
> I haven't really thought this through properly, but would it have been possible to have veneered the sides with the elm burr then route grooves into it to take the ebony strips.
> 
> Chris


Probably, maybe, Chris :duno: The problem is that RI gives scant instruction in the article in F&C on just _how_ to go about doing this sort of thing and as it's the first time I've done this type of project I did give an awful lot of thought into the best way to do it. I read the piece very carefully and adopted much of his methodology, but a lot of it is _'by guess and by God'_. Hopefully it'll turn out looking not too shabby...whether or not it's the way that RI would have done it remains to be seen. Today I've cut the thing in half (not through the bandsaw  ) and have started to glue on the last of the ebony to the joining surfaces, after which it'll be hinging it with some of Andrew Crawford's_ Smart_hinges which are definitely the way forward [-o< [-o< for hinging boxes like this - Rob


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## mtt.tr (31 Mar 2011)

Dont google ebony strips if you are after strips off ebony i learnt from my mistakes


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## Ian (1 Apr 2011)

Starting to take shape - look forward to seeing the finished article.

Will you be making the lock yourself?

Ian


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## woodbloke (1 Apr 2011)

Ian":23rm2s6i said:


> Will you be making the lock yourself?
> 
> Ian


No lock, just a knob or handle of some sort - Rob


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## woodbloke (17 Apr 2011)

For hinges, I opted for a set of the very excellent and beautifully made _smart_Hinge's from Andrew Crawford. These were now done in around an hour and are so easy to install that the mitres on the front corners were no more than .25mm off...easily sanded out in around twenty minutes.












It's critical that the hinges are set dead level. Mine aren't and so have been shimmed to bring them level with the inside surface of the box. Andrew does in fact say this in the blurb but my machining of the recesses wasn't quite accurate enough...as with all these sorts of things it's a learning curve the first time it's done. The only major criticism that I would offer is that no No3 steel screws are supplied to cut the initial thread although plenty of brass screws are included...not much good though, when you need to drive them through ebony! Fortunately, I had several boxes of steel screws that were exactly the right size, so that wasn't an issue.

All told, I'm very impressed with these as they cut out a lot of time and stress in the fitting process...forget Brusso, go _smart_!  Shown here with the steel screws in place, to be replaced later with brass - Rob


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## Ian (18 Apr 2011)

Looking good.


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## Ironballs (19 Apr 2011)

Looks very good Rob, glad to see you trying out those hinges, I'll be tempted to give them a whirl next time I'm doing a box. Will be very nice once you get a coat of finish on it


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## woodbloke (24 Apr 2011)

The box has been finally sorted out this morning, first pic shown closed:






and now open with the lining scribed and mitred in Wakansian birds eye maple :mrgreen: 






with the hinges again:






and the simple turned knob:






The finish is a couple of coats of satin hard-wax oil with teak wax over the top, 
with the final shot showing the brass feet and the underside:






As ever, constructive comments appreciated - Rob


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## mtr1 (24 Apr 2011)

Overall its a lovely box, I'm not keen on the plainness of the feet, and I think it could benefit from a pull out tray. 
I think you over complicated the build, but I guess how you build it is up to you and your time. Nonetheless a very well made box, and very attractive.


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## Mattty (24 Apr 2011)

I love the box Rob. The overall design is lovely and the finish and skill in making is very high. I also think it needs a tray inside. 

The feet on the other hand... they are just odd. i really dont understand them, and seeing the screws just cheapens the whole piece in my eyes. I would make them in a similar style to the handle, which i think would tie into the overall theme better.

Thanks for sharing the process.


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## woodbloke (24 Apr 2011)

mtr1":23dq67sa said:


> Overall its a lovely box, I'm not keen on the plainness of the feet, and I think it could benefit from a pull out tray.
> I think you over complicated the build, but I guess how you build it is up to you and your time. Nonetheless a very well made box, and very attractive.



Mark, what I was after with the feet was a simplified version of:






of this box, where the feet are turned brass. I don't like this and wanted something more simple and rectilinear which is why I decided for the square brass feet. RI doesn't do boxes (as far as I'm aware) with pull-out drawers and as this is an RI inspired box...neither did I. The construction is dead simple...there isn't any! All the jointing at the corners is just butted, no tongues, biscuits or whatever :lol: the theory being that these sorts of items aren't going to get a hammering and that some considerable strength is added to it by the lid and base glued into wide rebates - Rob


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## mtr1 (24 Apr 2011)

There seems to be two pull out trays in the original Rob? The feet still look like a afterthought to me, but if you like them its all that matters, still a beautiful box despite the carbuncles you've screwed to the bottom :lol:


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## Chems (24 Apr 2011)

Looks fantastic rob. I was following it on your blog as well, balls of steal required to cut it in half after all that work! 

With that type of brass you could make a lovely replica of the lie-nielsen dovetail marker.


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## woodbloke (24 Apr 2011)

mtr1":1tn99aq7 said:


> There seems to be two pull out trays in the original Rob?


Sorry Mark, misunderstanding. Yep, there are what I would term 'lift-out' trays in the pic posted above...I thought you meant pull out _ drawers_  It was an option to do a tray, but I only had a very limited amount of Waka's birds eye maple and I '_fubar_ed' :wink: :lol: one of the short scribed inside pieces at it was which had to be replaced. Last time I saw Waka he let me have a couple of oddments that were left over from his tool cabinet build and there was just enough to do the lining (and veneer the base) but not much else
The feet actually look better when it's seen in the 'wood'...I agree it's a bit 'clumpy' when it's turned over, but there wasn't really alternative way of fixing them, apart from a blob of epoxy - Rob


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## Karl (24 Apr 2011)

I really like it Rob. I think that the feet look pretty good when it's stood on them - they look a bit naff when you turn the box over. But I doubt it'll spend its life sat on its lid.

Cheers

Karl


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## Paul Chapman (24 Apr 2011)

A lovely job, Rob =D> 

I think I would have gone for Ebony feet.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (24 Apr 2011)

Paul Chapman":1419g1fk said:


> A lovely job, Rob =D>
> 
> I think I would have gone for Ebony feet.
> 
> ...


That's an easily doable possibility Paul, but I wanted to get the authentic Ingham_ish_ look which is why I went for brass. They're only screwed on, so could be replaced if I get fed up with the brass look. I did think about getting some round feet from CHT but I thought that thin bits of 3mm brass would look better. I also um'd and err'd about placing them flush, but went for the 3mm overhang...again in keeping with the RI theme - Rob


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## barkwindjammer (24 Apr 2011)

Has anyone else noticed that Wooden,,,,,,  


Got to say-except for the feet thats a masterpiece Rob, you should rightly be pleased and proud, the feet dont look nearly as weird as on the original, but I suppose RI is allowed some artistic license and quirkiness.
If I was skilled enough to make that I would experiment with dulling the brass down with coloured laquer so that the brass would glint through it a little ?, or would carry the amazing form* of the handle through to the feet (*it looks very oriental)

Just my opinion :wink:


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## Paul Chapman (24 Apr 2011)

woodbloke":2o6sw74y said:


> Paul Chapman":2o6sw74y said:
> 
> 
> > A lovely job, Rob =D>
> ...



Trying to be a bit more constructive, I think the beauty of the piece is in the burr veneers and the way they contrast with the Ebony strips. The piece is quite complex, yet at the same time it has a certain simplicity. However, the eye is immediately distracted by the brass feet and one is left thinking "What's all that about?"

I think you have been too influenced by Robert Ingham's box (the feet of which I don't like either).

I know your's is based on Robert's box but I think those brass feet have to go!

But I love the little handle  

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (24 Apr 2011)

Paul Chapman":3jfewots said:


> I know your's is based on Robert's box but I think those brass feet have to go!
> 
> But I love the little handle
> 
> ...


OK...the brass feet are simply screwed on and could be easily removed in around 30 seconds. But what then can they be replaced with?..a full plinth going all the way round in ebony:







I don't think this sort of plinth though is going to look right with this sort of project and besides I'm running short of material to do a full plinth like this.
More square feet again in ebony to replace the brass:






as in this box (maybe set flush as here)
or perhaps some turned cylindrical feet to match the handle?

Open here to ideas and suggestions? - Rob


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## Paul Chapman (24 Apr 2011)

As there's already a lot going on with all the squares, I'd be inclined to keep it simple and either go for no feet or squares of Ebony set flush, as in the example you posted.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## woodbloke (25 Apr 2011)

Paul Chapman":1jhs84nw said:


> As there's already a lot going on with all the squares, I'd be inclined to keep it simple and either _go for no feet_ or squares of Ebony set flush, as in the example you posted.
> 
> Cheers :wink:
> 
> Paul


Thanks Paul. I'm going to go with the majority view and take off the feet and cover the holes with some squares of green baize d/s'd taped to the base and set back from the edge so they won't be visible...another pic later when it's been done :wink: Musn't panic 8-[ [-o< 






Brass carbuncles have now gone...better? [-o< 8-[ - Rob


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## CHJ (25 Apr 2011)

Much, Much, Better, busy enough as it is and looks solid substantial construction that could be any scale you liked to imagine.


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## Paul Chapman (25 Apr 2011)

Perfect, Rob 8) 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## mtr1 (25 Apr 2011)

Much better, with the height of the box it looks much better without feet.


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## woodbloke (25 Apr 2011)

Thanks chaps...all advice and help muchly appreciated  - Rob


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## Mattty (25 Apr 2011)

Rob, that looks much better now. Infact it looks fantastic. Really nice job indeed.


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## newt (26 Apr 2011)

Nice one Rob. I know it can take ages to decide on feet remember the issues with one of mine, still not sure mine are right. Nearly as bad as handles.


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## woodbloke (26 Apr 2011)

newt":21ocyboq said:


> Nearly as bad as handles.


...not forgetting fitting hinges Pete :evil: :evil: - Rob


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## newt (26 Apr 2011)

And hinges :evil: :evil: :evil:


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## TheTiddles (26 Apr 2011)

I liked it more with the feet.


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## woodbloke (27 Apr 2011)

TheTiddles":wknrgzmu said:


> I liked it more with the feet.


Next time you come round, I'll stick 'em on with some tacky Blu! :lol: :lol: - Rob


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## Benchwayze (27 Apr 2011)

I can't add much to the comments. It's all been said, and I endorse all of the compliments Rob. 

I can live with the feet, and they look less obtrusive than the turned feet in that example you showed us. 

I think the negativity towards them is because you showed the underside. Maybe if you attached them with epoxy (Shock-horror) and covered the underside of the feet with green felt the under-view wood look better. It would also protect polished surfaces from the brass. 

Overall... Super workmanship Rob. So my ideas on the feet are just a thought. 

I was puzzled by the point re 'pull out trays'. 
The trays in the original are what I might term 'lift-out' trays or boxes. Such as you find in blanket chests. Pull-out trays are more like a shallow drawer to me. But I am an awkward. pedantic cuss at times! 8) 

Regards
John


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## woodbloke (27 Apr 2011)

Benchwayze":zj3yojcb said:


> I was puzzled by the point re 'pull out trays'.
> The trays in the original are what I might term 'lift-out' trays or boxes. Such as you find in blanket chests. Pull-out trays are more like a shallow drawer to me. But I am an awkward. pedantic cuss at times! 8)
> 
> Regards
> John


...which is how I interpreted it John. I still have the brass feet and may well use them for another project later on. To fit them as I had them originally (with screws) was to be fair, a bit clunky and did make the underside look 'odd'...but then the underside isn't seen most of the time. Perhaps they would have looked better fitted flush to the sides of the box rather than a 3mm overlap? :duno: As you say, fitting them with a dab of epoxy would have been a neater way of doing the job, but then how would I have got them off again without completely manglising the underside of the box...tricky one :wink: - Rob


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## eoinsgaff (27 Apr 2011)

Rob, 

I'm a little late getting on board but I also must echo the compliments. It looks like a very impressive piece of work with very obvious skill and detail. 

I've been pondering about the legs and I must remain on the fence about the brass feet. However, now that they are off are you going to leave the piece, hmmmm, legless, if you will? I think I saw some one suggest mirroring the handle. How about mitering short cylindrical sections at the corners. Or maybe its best as it is? Just some simple minded food for thought.

Again, a lovely piece. Well done.

Eoin


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## woodbloke (28 Apr 2011)

eoinsgaff":5jkmrqot said:


> Rob,
> 
> I've been pondering about the legs and I must remain on the fence about the brass feet. However, now that they are off are you going to leave the piece, hmmmm, legless, if you will? I think I saw some one suggest mirroring the handle. How about mitering short cylindrical sections at the corners. Or maybe its best as it is? Just some simple minded food for thought.
> 
> Eoin


Thanks E, I think this one's now dun n'dusted...it's going to remain 'legless' but as I'm off to see my brother this weekend, I will be also :-" :-" :-D :lol: - Rob


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## BrianD (2 May 2011)

That is one heck of beautiful box!!!! 

Well done, stunning.

I can only imagine the amount of fiddly work required!


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## woodbloke (29 Jun 2012)

I finished this little box some time ago now but it's always irritated me :twisted: :twisted: as I didn't spend enough time on sanding it (there were score marks in the top  ) and the applied finish didn't look right. I stripped of the original finish (Osmo-PolyX) which I do like, but not on this job and have re-sanded and re-finished it (shellac and wax) over the last couple of days. The box now looks much better than it did and all the scratch marks (which weren't apparent in the first series of pics) have now gone:







With the top open:






...and a shot of a corner:






It's difficult to get the lighting right as the lamps are overhead and mounted close to the ceiling - Rob


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