# Inca Table Saw Restoration



## jimi43

Hi Guys....not sure if this is the right forum as I don't post very often but thought you would be interested in this little gem I picked up recently.

I acquired this Swiss made "INCA" table saw the other week at a bootfair and it was in a pretty awful (and dangerous) state:







The above picture was from eBay of the actual saw where the guy was trying (and failing) to sell it.

A little research told me this was an INCA 59 saw and was quite sought after...particularly in the USA.

There was extensive but not deep rust on a lot of parts...particularly the stand and so a respray was the only way to go...











The old Gryphon motor worked fine but again was really rusty...






The wiring was particularly bad with totally perished rubber "insulation" which wasn't!!

How the guy didn't electrocute himself simply amazes me!

Anyway....a little stripping down and polishing...rust neutralising and painting and she now rocks and rolls....OH...and I replaced the wiring!!






The colour matching was more towards the INCA green than the "Startrite" metalic green....since I couldn't get this colour...it is "FORD FOREST GREEN"...






The motor was not an INCA one so that became enamel blue...just for a bit of contrast...






The cast aluminium bed needed complete sanding down through the grades and came out quite well...it had some deep gouges..











I cleaned the main bed up and left it basically untouched...there was some paint flaking in some places...but not many...






I need to get a new blade as the one in it was quite rusty and had one tooth of the TCTs missing...I didn't really want any more coming off at a few thousand revs! I need to source one with a 15mm arbour...160mm...not sure where I will find one of them in the UK!!

Any comments...help...advice or anyone with knowledge of this gem...gratefully received...

Cheers guys

Jim


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## leighf

Can't help with the blade but OMG, what a fantastic job you've done. 

Hope you have many hours of pleasure fromyour hard labour!!!!


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## clewlowm

can't you just use a reducing bush?


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## woody67

That's just amazing Jim :shock: 

I personally love these restoration threads - but sadly the one burning question is...........and I'm sure many more would like to know................is how much you paid for it and what it has cost to date. Sorry Jim, but someone's got to ask   

Mark


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## jimi43

Thanks for the kind words guys....much appreciated. I can't stand to see high quality engineering disappear into the dreaded land of rust!

Given the wiring deterioration and the information I have I would say that it is a 1960s saw. Not bad old lady once she had a facelift.

The gentleman (and he was) had it at the fair for two weeks up for £20...he had it on eBay for a ton!

I nearly bought it the first time around but he was right over the back of a field and I was at the back of a carpark and I never THOUGHT of the idea of dismantling it in situ!!!

The following week I offered him £15 for it and he took it..and gave me an adjustable and a Phillips to take it apart! The motor alone nearly crippled me carrying it back to the car!

The paint cost me for two tins at Halfords...£8 and I had some grey Hammerite primer anyway....So I am into this project for £23 and about six hours graft....

I have just checked the arbour and it is 15mm exactly...the blade that was fitted was a 16mm (about 5/8") and a conical bronze bush was used to fill in the 1mm gap. I am not an expert on packing these things out with a reducing disc but I think it would have to be a conical one at only 1mm play or can you go down to inserts of that thickness (thinness!)?

I can't wait to run some wood through her...but I need to sort out the riving knife alignment and do further tests on the pulley alignments. I think it may be out a tad as the belt wobbles a fraction.

It really runs quietly though!

I understand from the kind people at the INCA forum that you can fit a mortiser to the spare holes on the buttocks end of the arbour and drive a mortising bit with it....the idea frightens the life out of me!

The mechanism for raising and lowering the blade is really beautiful...it actually raises and lowers the table....and the tilt does the same...I understand this is now banned in Europe...why would that be please?

I will try to get a wee video to show her in action shortly....but alignment first tomorrow when I can see better!

Anyone here got one of these minature marvels or know more about them?

Once again...thanks for the encouragement....I think I may just post my restoration of some oak doors...ummmm...into a workbench soon!

Jim



Jimi


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## woody67

Thanks for that Jim, for sharing your project and the exorbitant costs :wink: .............now then, where's my nearest carboot sale?..... :wink:
Just to say again fella, I think you've done yourself VERY proud and you should get yourself out this weekend on the hunt for another project.

Mark


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## dickm

Inca made some really nice kit back in the 70s. Their last agent in the UK was Bruce Pollard in Milton Keynes, but his machinery business folded some time in the 80s. I went to the sale of the stock - unfortunately, it was lotted up for commercial buyers, with 20 bandsaw tables or the like in one lot. So I suspect they raised a lot less than they might have had it been lotted better.
Startrite used to sell the saw you have in their livery. The raising/tilting table is a simple idea (Coronet used the same on their Consort saw and on the lathe attachments). But not ideal, because if you are using an outfeed support, you have to adjust it every time you change depth of cut, and running larger items across the slope for angled cuts is not easy. Which may be why ther are not CE approved?

But a really nice restoration job.


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## jimi43

woody67":3utxpdo0 said:


> Thanks for that Jim, for sharing your project and the exorbitant costs :wink: .............now then, where's my nearest carboot sale?..... :wink:
> Just to say again fella, I think you've done yourself VERY proud and you should get yourself out this weekend on the hunt for another project.
> 
> Mark



Awww...thanks Mark...the kind words are really appreciated.

I restore mostly tools when I get a chance...I have the unnatural desire to get old planes and fix them up...this was a little out of my league!

Cheers

Jimi


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## jimi43

dickm":23cejpn7 said:


> Inca made some really nice kit back in the 70s. Their last agent in the UK was Bruce Pollard in Milton Keynes, but his machinery business folded some time in the 80s. I went to the sale of the stock - unfortunately, it was lotted up for commercial buyers, with 20 bandsaw tables or the like in one lot. So I suspect they raised a lot less than they might have had it been lotted better.
> Startrite used to sell the saw you have in their livery. The raising/tilting table is a simple idea (Coronet used the same on their Consort saw and on the lathe attachments). But not ideal, because if you are using an outfeed support, you have to adjust it every time you change depth of cut, and running larger items across the slope for angled cuts is not easy. Which may be why ther are not CE approved?
> 
> But a really nice restoration job.



Hi Dick....thanks hugely for the added information. For me the major part of a new restoration is the research and digging into a bygone age where engineering WAS engineering! I had heard of the Startrite connection and am digging into that as we speak. There is a Startrite dealer in the village who may know...I need to go check with him.

Your comment on the raising and lowering table make absolute sense now...silly me! Of COURSE that would be a huge problem and potentially dangerous...we wouldn't want any of our European cousins to hurt themselves now would we!!!  :wink: 

What amazes me is that the engineering that does all of this is very accurate...how it keeps square and level during the rise/fall action is beautiful. The big arm locks down the table once it is at the required height each time. I found that out when I didn't release this clutch pad mechanism and tried to raise and lower it!!

Cheers again for the information - I guess there might be a few of these knocking about but most seem to have migrated from the Alps to the USA!

Jim


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## superunknown

Thanks for sharing this with all your pictures, I love it. Its great to see this lovely old machine brought back to life. Would love to see the video soon.

2 years ago I spend the summer renovating a 1960 Wadkin AGS10". Completely stripped it down, every nut and bolt then re-sprayed it and fitted a new motor etc. Runs like a dream now and I loved every second of it.


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## jonnymac

Nice Restoration! 

Regarding replacement blades, Inca unfortunately appears to be unique in its use of a 15mm Arbor, I have spent many hours scouring the internet for 15mm blades to no avail.

You have several options: 16mm blades are freely available - I use a few from another saw and pack the arbor with a piece of thin metal wound around - an old feeler gauge works well.

If buying new blades I would get a 20mm hole type and use a reducing washer - Trend make a good range of sizes at reasonable prices and some include reducers to 12.7 mm, you could open this up to 15mm if you have an accurate drill press or lathe. I recently bought a 140mm from tooled up.com their site is particularly helpful as it lists blades by diameter.

Unfortunately no one seems to make 175mm diameter blades (the ideal size) - I am lucky enough to have a few genuine Inca Blades the largest of which measures 178mm - I think you could get a 180mm in without fouling the riving knife ( I havent actually tried this just carefully measured the clearances) 184mm is too big - and would require a redesign of the knife to fit, not impossible just a bit of a fiddle.

The Inca catalogue lists a 181mm blade for non ferrous metals but I'm not sure if this is for use with the knife removed.

You may not be aware that this machine makes a really useful grooving tool with a blade of less than 145mm - you can raise the table to reveal as little blade as you like - not many modern tables will do this. I also have some off centre 'wobble' washers and a wider table insert for cutting wide grooves - haven't used it tho as the idea of it scares the hell out of me!

I also have some parts catalogues and brochures ( Great photos - think men in bad 70s knitwear smoking pipes while happily using a spotless Inca)

My Father in Law bought an Inca 250 back in the 70's - I recently did pretty much the same as you have done to it - restoring a Startrite base with motor for our original saw which we picked up from ebay, In fact we got a job lot of two saws, so having completed one each he now has no reason to lament giving me his old table saw.

Also Inca have a website for spares, you can contact them through: www.incamachines.com

Hope this helps 

Jon


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## Chris Knight

jonnymac":3hrgvbdk said:


> Nice Restoration!
> 
> 
> Also Inca have a website for spares, you can contact them through: www.incamachines.com
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Jon



Welcome to the forum Jon. After a couple more posts you will be able to post links.


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## Racers

Hi, jimi43


Can you get hold of a blade with a smaller hole and have it drilled out? I have had this done on a couple of blades. Its east to do you need a piece of bar the same size as the existing hole clamped in the chuck to center it, clamp the blade down swap to the correct sized drill and off you go, any engineering firm will be able to do it for you.

Pete


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## jimi43

Hi Jon

Thanks for posting the links and information my friend and indeed...welcome to the forum...although it is only a few weeks that I was welcomed here so warmly.

I would love to see some pictures if you have any...

Regarding blades...when I got the saw it had a rather ingenious bush...it is a bronze washer that is milled into a cone so that it can withstand being so thin (1mm) one side by the support of the metal on the other side. This is then put on the arbour before the plate and nut. Very clever. 

This allows the use of 16mm bore blades which are freely available and indeed...I measured the clearance at full wind....and a 184mm fits fine:











I think this differs from your experience that it doesn't because apparently there are two types of riving knife...one wider (from the side) than the other and apparently I have the thinner knife. 

Obviously I tried the clearance manually before I wound up the power but it cuts BRILLIANTLY...just check the result of this cut on some oak to produce some edge veneer....(this picture was not faked...it is the veneer placed alongside after the cut!)...






I was totally astounded that this saw... which has to be over 40 years old...cut this slither which is virtually uniform along the entire length without any variance....






and produced this....






Not bad eh!?

I was going to sell this machine but I am so very impressed with it, I think I will be keeping her....I may even go in search of a morticer to fit the holes just WAITING for it on the other side of the table!

I love the idea of the feeler gauge to make a shim though...mmm...good idea!

The grooving idea sounds brilliant....I must try that...will get a new blade off eBay....and let you know....

I read about "wobble" blades...they are frightening I must admit...I might try this once I get confident that all the dangers are covered. H&S in the sixties was not quite what it is now!

I would LOVE to see some pictures of the catalogues you have...any chance that you could scan some mate?

I really enjoyed your post and any other info you have would be most appreciated!

Cheers

Jimi


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## jimi43

Racers":33r02vuj said:


> Hi, jimi43
> 
> 
> Can you get hold of a blade with a smaller hole and have it drilled out? I have had this done on a couple of blades. Its east to do you need a piece of bar the same size as the existing hole clamped in the chuck to center it, clamp the blade down swap to the correct sized drill and off you go, any engineering firm will be able to do it for you.
> 
> Pete



Hi Pete

There are 12mm bore blades but I think the ones sold are for small portable off-cut saws and I am not sure of the kerf/blade thickness profiles...obviously they have to span the riving knife thickness to work safely...the Freud 184/16mm does perfectly and I love Freud blades...

I have a fairly substantial drill press and a lathe (1900s Taylor) so may try your idea if the dimensions pan out...thanks for the tip - it makes perfect sense!

Cheers

Jimi


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## jonnymac

Interesting, thanks for your reply - we do seem to be running some kind of parallel project!

I was considering designing a new riving knife to accommodate a 184 blade as well as a brass washer with a small lip on it to allow 16mm hole blades to be mounted without messing about with shims. I'd really appreciate some closeups of your cone and knife to see if I was thinking along the right lines.

It will take me a while to make them as I have very little spare time at present, but its on the to do list!

That blade looks like its a real performer - it's a Freud? My Inca TCT comes close in accuracy but is not as well finished.

I'd be glad to put up some scans of the brochures/catalogues- I also have instructions and a price list dated 1981, this might take a few days to get together though, I'll try to take some shots of the saw too.

Jon


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## jimi43

Hi Jon

Thanks for the reply....

HERE (large pic) is a scan of the riving knife.

Tomorrow I will take some pictures with the cover off showing the relative positions of the blade and riving knife....there is plenty of clearance.

Obviously the bigger the blade one puts on it the more it sticks above the table at lowest point. I think you have to go right down in size to about 150mm before it will be flush...which is strange as the riving knife will then be miles away. 

The more I find out about this baby the more it interests me. The INCA group (on YAHOO) has a wealth of information on this and the more popular 259 and morticer...there is also a jointer/planer. The one I want is the bandsaw...that is a nice bit of kit!

Yes that is a FREUD...I got it on eBay for a couple of quid. Really good deal. It has 40 teeth so for fine cuts as you can see! I replaced the brand new blade in both my Scheppach TS2010 and my rubbish MacAlister chop saw and it transformed them both...more so the rubbish B&Q machine turning it into a very useable and accurate tool.

Would love to see the pictures of your saw and scans of the brochures would be most informative and a hoot by the sound of it!

Cheers mate.

Jim


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## dickm

Just seen an advertisement for Inca from the early 1980s, and it seems that at that stage they were selling Kity machines with an Inca badge. Don't think that link-up can have lasted long.
Do any of you Inca fans know why their small bandsaw was "back-to-front", with the neck on the right hand side rather than on the left as per usual? I think I've read somewhere that this is normal for butchers' saws, and the one in our local butcher is certainly that way on.


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## jimi43

dickm":1wm7m4zk said:


> Just seen an advertisement for Inca from the early 1980s, and it seems that at that stage they were selling Kity machines with an Inca badge. Don't think that link-up can have lasted long.
> Do any of you Inca fans know why their small bandsaw was "back-to-front", with the neck on the right hand side rather than on the left as per usual? I think I've read somewhere that this is normal for butchers' saws, and the one in our local butcher is certainly that way on.



You wouldn't have a link or a scan of that picture would you Dick?

It would make perfect sense when you think that KITY was French and INCA Swiss....KITY was pretty nice kit (no pun intended) until - like others - they sold their soul to the Eastern Devil.... :evil: 

Jim


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## jimi43

Hi Jon

I managed to get some pictures of the FREUD 184mm in situ today...note there is a fair amount of clearance still....






The limit isn't the riving knife which I think could even go as far as 190mm blades but the base...as you can see it just misses it at full down position...











...even then I think I could risk a little more but I don't want to as knowing me I will forget which blade is in there and roll it down into the casing....heaven knows what mess that would cause!

This is the bronze washer. Basically I think it is a twin of the one that goes on the plate...probably a spare. But it centres the blade if you spin it as you are tightening the locking nut...






This is of course still very much a bodge job...I would feel safer if it was a shim or the correct diameter bore. I think I will get some TREND spacers and bore them out.....but it cuts really well at the moment so I guess if it ain't broke don't....etc!

Hope this helps...

Not sure why the neck on the INCA bandsaws are on the right hand side but I read somewhere that this is better for righthanded workers...being left handed my DeWalt suits me fine! At the end of the day I guess it is what you are use to...I don't think it makes much difference...

Cheers

Jim


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## FatFreddysCat

Nice to see a lightweight piece of engineering like the Inca being restored for a change. I remember Inca having quite a reputation for quality in the seventies and early eighties and I know that Startrite in Gillingham certainly imported this model (rebadged Startrite and on a steel base) in the 1960s - probably when your saw dates from.



jimi43":1ajdmyyv said:


> The mechanism for raising and lowering the blade is really beautiful...it actually raises and lowers the table....and the tilt does the same...I understand this is now banned in Europe...why would that be please?


This was quite a common mechanism for industrial rip saws prior to WWII, however in the 1930s Wadkin (and others) adopted a rising/falling arbor mechanism. This was more expensive to manufacture but allowed the user to build a run off table behind the saw, a much safer way to handle long rips. It was to take many years until the run off table became a legal requirement (I believe 1974 here in the UK). Obviously with a rising/falling table it is difficult to provide a run off table.....



dickm":1ajdmyyv said:


> Do any of you Inca fans know why their small bandsaw was "back-to-front", with the neck on the right hand side rather than on the left as per usual? I think I've read somewhere that this is normal for butchers' saws, and the one in our local butcher is certainly that way on.


Not only for butchers saws. If you're ever lucky enough to find a proper sawmill with a Robinson resaw (or band rack) you'll find it is also arranged that way as are Stenners. Only "standard" bandsaw I can ever recall seeing like that was a Belgian Danckaert machine.


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## jimi43

FatFreddysCat":2rfbkia1 said:


> This was quite a common mechanism for industrial rip saws prior to WWII, however in the 1930s Wadkin (and others) adopted a rising/falling arbor mechanism. This was more expensive to manufacture but allowed the user to build a run off table behind the saw, a much safer way to handle long rips. It was to take many years until the run off table became a legal requirement (I believe 1974 here in the UK). Obviously with a rising/falling table it is difficult to provide a run off table.....



Yes...this was the subject of a discussion I read on the possible demise of these little machines. My view is that I doubt if I would be cutting large sheets or planks on this baby...and if I did want to venture that far I would use an adjustable roller rest as the outfeed...indeed I use one on my larger table saw anyway...

Cheers

Jim


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## jonnymac

Jim,

Many thanks for the Pictures, your knife is indeed much thinner than mine, - I'll have to modify it. The bronze washer although it looks like a bodge I suspect it is custom made on someones lathe, as if it wasn't the exact correct size and depth it just wouldn't work.

Sorry its taken a while to reply as I have two very small kids so get very little time in the workshop.

I will put up some pictures of the info and saw midweek sometime when I get the chance.

As to the bandsaw I'll ask my father in law - he has one also bought in the 70's and just as accurate/nicely made as the table saw. I've used it a few times, spotted one on ebay a while ago - went for 75 quid if I recall correctly, it was collect only and in Norfolk - a good drive from me.

More Later 

Jon


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## jonnymac

Racers":28d85vra said:


> Hi, jimi43
> 
> 
> Can you get hold of a blade with a smaller hole and have it drilled out? I have had this done on a couple of blades. Its east to do you need a piece of bar the same size as the existing hole clamped in the chuck to center it, clamp the blade down swap to the correct sized drill and off you go, any engineering firm will be able to do it for you.
> 
> Pete



I've tried this and have a rather cautionary tale to tell: I had an almost new stanley combination hollow ground with a 10mm hole and used a cone drill to try to open it up to 15mm, after a while I had got to about 13.5mm I looked up at the drill press and where it had been shiny tool steel it was Rusty!!!

I can only think that the combination of the Chromium in the blade with the TiN in the drill bit, the cutting fluid and the considerable head generated caused some kind of noxious gas to be generated - possibly nitric acid - 

Luckily I was wearing a full plexiglas visor so any fumes I might have breathed had to work their way round the back - So my advice is give it to an engineering shop to do!!!


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## jonnymac

I've not posted pictures to a forum before and don't seem to be able to get them to display in the page - so you'll just have to visit these links:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mcclellans/4047869322/ 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mcclellans/4047127895/ 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mcclellans/4047126855/ 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mcclellans/4047125789/

There's the Saw, Its the original as bought by my Father in Law on the restored and rewired startrite base.

Note the home made micrometer - something I knocked up on my lathe, the Fence Locking Knobs are home made too.

Also there is the original Mitre Guide.

Hope that worked, the brochures are going up next!! 

Jon


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## jonnymac

Inca Brochures, Instructions, Price List, and Fetching Knitware here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mcclellans ... 669747676/

Enjoy

Jon


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## jimi43

Good LORD Jon...what on earth do you use as cutting fluid that creates nitric acid???

:shock: :shock: 

A slow cutting speed with sharp reamer should not have created heat. As you know the tempering of the blade was probably compromised anyway. I am not that keen on doing that myself...rather I would prefer to shim.

So that base (which is the same as mine) is a STARTRITE one is it? I note in the US pics on the Yahoo group and in the great promo pic you posted, that the standard table in Europe is a wooden square one with the motor mounted on a shelf below.

The metal one...was painted in what looked like STARTRITE hammer finish...it did not match the INCA green...it almost does now on mine.

That guy with the pipe is using a table saw in the most dangerous way I think I have ever seen...don't ya just LOVE the 60s!!!  

I think the reason your pics did not post before is you may have been below 3 posts. They should post ok now...

Thanks for posting them!

Cheers

Jim


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## jonnymac

Yes the reamer was brand new and the drill was on the slowest pully, - I was taking it very slowly to try to preserve the temper of the blade, Cutting fluid is just the normal stuff you get from screwfix or axminster. - I am just guessing it was some kind of acid - chemistry O level is now a distant and very murky memory.

The Base is a Startrite for sure - yes and mine too was hammered green with lots of rust, I took the removable blade cover from the saw to the local paint supplier shop and had them match the shade.

Jon


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## matthewwh

165, 180 and 184mm industrial grade, hand smithed, Sheffield made blades available here and sharpening services for the same (including return postage) here. It may be cheaper to go for disposable blades in the short run, but if the machine is a keeper then resharpenable industrial blades will give you the full benefit of the tool's stability and save you money over time.

A very impressive rebuild that really shows what can be done to conserve tools that were built right in the first place. I take my hat off to you.


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## jimi43

You NAILED the supplier there Matthew! Brilliant!

I think I have a fair amount in PayPal at the moment and I may treat myself to a 30 tooth 15mm job....£43 is not bad at all!

I think I will also contact them to see if they have a suggestion for shims so I can use other blades if I need to. 

Thanks for the superb links and the very kind words....

Jim


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## paulbelgrado

Jim , 

Very very nice restoration ! 
I was trying to get some info on inca saws on the web and I stumbled on your forum post . 
I am a satisfied owner of an inca planer ( already made in France factory) . 
I had it for 15 years and the precision is great . 

I own a old Kity saw similar to the inca . It also has a 15 mm arbor . 
Recently I made some reduction bushings ( 30 to 15mm ) myself in a fiberglass material . 
I own a home built cnc router and the precision I get was enough to use it with standard saw blades . 

You can buy a reduction bushing in France for 5 euro . 
Here's the link . 
http://www.hmdiffusion.com/Bague-de-red ... -4109p.htm 

If you want I'll send you some of my home made one's . 
The pictures of your restoration have inspired me and I hope I'll be able to find an old inca saw in the near future . 

Greetings , 

Paul


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## jimi43

Hi Paul

Thanks for the kind words and pleased that this has given you the inspiration to get your own saw. As I have said before...these things are beautifully made and some of the help I have had here has inspired me also to make some slight improvements...particularly in the micro-adjuster which, on mine, was busted and so I am not really worried about originality (not that I was anyway!)

Thanks for the links and offer for the spacers....let me see how the new saw blade which I have ordered pans out....I ordered a custom one from Workshop Heaven - the link that Matthew put me onto...and am looking forward to seeing how that cuts..

Can you post some pictures of your jointer please?

Cheers

Jim


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## DaveL

Hi Paul,

Welcome to the forum. 

Your link got caught by our spam trap this will stop when you have a few more posts to your name, here it is:



paulbelgrado":39wd4xp0 said:


> Jim ,
> You can buy a reduction bushing in France for 5 euro .
> Here's the link .
> http://www.hmdiffusion.com/Bague-de-red ... -4109p.htm


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## paulbelgrado

Thanks DaveL , the forum looks great. 

Jim , 

Here are some pics of some machines I have. 
I actually bought a secondhand INCA universal saw ( 341.017 ) this afternoon . It is a bit rusty but it still works . some bits and pieces are missing . (splitter etc )
I made a test cut with it while still on the wooden stand and it already worked quite well (see ad picture for model ) . I'll have to take of the rust and paint it here and there .
It's a very nice little machine . I got it with the wooden stand ( mostly beech ) but the parts that are particle board have been too humid and are swollen . I'll replace that with some plywood I think ."
Tomorrow I'm going to see another Inca machine this time it's a "major " model (341.018 ). Maybe I'll buy it . It's really a coincidence that there are two machines on sale . Somewhere in the north of Holland they sell one very nice one too . 
For my luthiery work I could use these little saws very well . I would set each one up with a dedicated blade for certain tasks . 
The jointer planer I own is already manufactured in France . I bought it new 15 years ago . It has a TERSA (3 knives ) cutterhead and it has two feed speeds .The precision is great .
In the picture I stuck a piece of melamine to the fence to have a bit more support . 
The drive mechanism of the planer broke ( a nylon wormgear ) . I decided not to use this feature anymore because it was a bit too much work to convert it from jointer to planer . 
I bought myself a portable Dewalt planer wich works very good ( except for the noise it makes ).
You can also see a picture of my Kity 617 saw ( modified ) . I got it together with a few other kity machines ( al were in bad shape ). I was able to get the saw working but it vibrates a little . The Inca is cast and the kity is made out of bend plate steel . 
Here are the links to the pics .
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4069797320/
[img]http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4069795422/in/photostream/
[img]http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4069038043/in/photostream/
[img]http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4069797138/in/photostream/

I'll keep you updated about my INCA adventure.

Greetings ,

Paul


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## frugal

jimi43":1uzf3pfz said:


> The motor was not an INCA one so that became enamel blue...just for a bit of contrast...



The Inca Combi I have just acquired also had a UK Gryphon Motor. I assume that the machines were imported and then had local motors added to ensure that they matched the local standards. The paint on the motor is a slightly different texture and colour than the rest of the bodywork.


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## jimi43

Any possiblity of a picture or three of yours frugal when you get a chance?

If that is the case I shall have mine out again and respray it. I think I may now have a source of STARTRITE metalic hammered green...(will find out this weekend) and in which case....I would like the whole base to go back to that colour. 

Also - although the switch unit was in a dreadful state and much better now...that too could do with being that "green grey" that originals are. A kind of "dirge"....or is it "bilge" colour!!  

I can't wait to see more pics of your acquisition frugal.

Jim


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## jimi43

Hi Paul

The links didn't come out but I cut and pasted them and found your pictures.

This is some beautiful equipment....I am going to work now but will comment further later....

_Edit...squeezed in a few minutes to look at your pictures and a couple of questions too....

Can you take and post a picture of the extension table to the right of the main bed...how it bolts on and a picture of the underside of it. I am thinking of getting or making one and this would help me.

Also in the picture if the 341.017...I assume you are cleaning it there...I take it you are not using it off the bench like that...?

Again...great pictures and thanks for posting_

Cheers

Jim


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## frugal

jimi43":13qpnab8 said:


> Can you take and post a picture of the extension table to the right of the main bed...how it bolts on and a picture of the underside of it. I am thinking of getting or making one and this would help me.



I will try to get some more pictures as soon as I can. The whole thing has been stripped down so that I could get it on it's back to get the motor out 

In the mean time. The picture below shows the extension wing on the left hand side. The fence is bolted onto the main table with the two left hand bolts, the fence then extends about 9" to the left of the main table. the extention wing is then attached with a single bolt to the fence.

In order to move the wing to the right hand side, you can undo the left most bolt; remove the wing; slacken the two remaining bolts; slide the fence all the way to the right; tighten up the bolts; attach the wing to the fence that is now pretruding from the right hand side.


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## jimi43

Oh I see...so the extension table is not connected to the main table side at all rather it lays in the L shapes of front and back rails...is that correct?

Jim


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## frugal

jimi43":1pall8x9 said:


> If that is the case I shall have mine out again and respray it. I think I may now have a source of STARTRITE metalic hammered green...(will find out this weekend) and in which case....I would like the whole base to go back to that colour.



If you do find a source for it then I would certainly be interested.


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## DaveL

Hi Paul,

Here are your pictures, you need to link directly to the .jpg files


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## paulbelgrado

Thanks DaveL for putting on the pictures . 

Jim , 

I started to restore the Inca universal today . 
I took it apart and cleaned it . The table of my machine is made out of cast iron ( grauguss in german ) . They probably made two versions . 
The extension part is made out of aluminium . 
On the pictures you can see the longer rails that connect everything with the wing nuts .
I bought some hammerite today ( grey , green , black ) and I'll be touching up the machine in the next weeks . 
I sanded the rusty worktable with my orbital sander . ( 120 - 320 ) after that I used steel wool and brasso to make it better . 
The sides are still rusty and the bottom also . I'll probably give it a coat of grey silver hammerite to protect it from rusting . 
The wooden table + wiring needs some work too . 
All the iron support bars etc will be done in black . In the old caltalogs it seemed to be done that way or it might just have been uncorroded iron .
It really is a very well made machine . 


















Today I went to see another machine , an Inca Major . 
It was for sale here in the Brussels area .
The condition was quite good so I got my last pocket money and bought it ( early christmas presents ). One thing that was missing was the fence . I got the mortising attachment with it though . i'll probably get the few missing parts from switzerland when the machine is restored and when I saved up some money. 
I'll post some photo's in the next week or so . 
I think I was infected with the INCA virus this week , I never imagined finding saws like this . They seem to be quite rare even when you look worldwide .

Greetings ,

Paul


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## jimi43

Hi Frugal....yes - if I find the correct "Startrite" metallic hammerite green spray I will post it here. I have a feeling that it MUST be available somewhere as there are so very many Startrite machines out there.

My source is the dealer in Kent...he is not trading anymore but he appears at bootfairs here and has literally HUNDREDS of bits for machine tools spread out over a tarpaulin. I hope the weather holds out and the fair is on so I can ask him

Paul...nice job you did there mate...steel is probably going to come up better than cast aluminium - I always find it does anyway. 

The pictures are great thankyou...and as for the "Inca Virus" well...I must have it too because I only started out on this road with my bootfair find and now I am totally obsessed with them!

I am now looking for a mortice attachment for mine...

Would love to see more pictures....keep in touch!

Jim


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## dickm

I wonder if Bruce Pollard still has any Inca-related stuff? He ran Woodworking Machines of Switzerland who were the Inca agents in the UK until the business folded in the 1990s. I imagine all the stock went at the subsequent auction, but it's possible he kept some. His family still run Pollards ironmongers and cleaning supplies in Fenny Stratford, so it's possible he could be contacted via them.

The Inca saw is similar to the Coronet Consort in many ways; beautifully made, but to my mind, a basically flawed design with the tilting table.


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## jimi43

Thanks again Dick. I will try that source.

On the subject of the tilting table...I never need to cut angles like that and if I did I would do it on my Scheppach so the table is set at 90 deg and left there. Raising and lowering the table does not seem to affect this setting which is amazing considering the table is moved!

All in all this is a beautiful bit of kit which isn't made for cutting 8x4 sheets...probably useless if you are allergic to sawdust ( :roll: ) and wouldn't meet health and safety requirements in Nigeria...BUT...

...it does what it does and it does it brilliantly...

Apart from the VERY expensive kit around today, again made in Europe...I would use one of these over most machines and it is super handy for those "little quick" cuts that we all do 90% of the time.

I put these things up there with the UNIMAT model lathe (I WANT ONE!) and the likes...which, whilst quirky are much sought after for good reason..they do the job and do it well.

Cheers 

Jim


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## Benchwayze

My Gawd, he saw you coming. £15.00 for a load of junk? :lol: :lol: :lol: 


Seriously, I bet if he ever sees the finished item, he will be testing the waters for a bit of a rebate! You did good, and your graft should see you well for a few years now. 

I used a horizontal morticer on my Coronet Major for years. There were special milling cutters to go with the arbour, but I can't say it ever worried me. I just knew to keep clear of the revolving cutter, and never to wear floppy sleeves! 

All the best
John


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## dickm

jimi43":iex4404z said:


> Apart from the VERY expensive kit around today, again made in Europe...I would use one of these over most machines and it is super handy for those "little quick" cuts that we all do 90% of the time.
> 
> I put these things up there with the UNIMAT model lathe (I WANT ONE!) and the likes...which, whilst quirky are much sought after for good reason..they do the job and do it well.


With you there, Jimi - I only got rid of my much modified Consort because I got a VERY cheap Lurem Universal which is still being modified after 20 years regular work 

The Unimat is a real gem - bought one of the old 1200 models very reasonably for my daughter to use for her jewellry making. She took it back to the States and now almost has to fend off the technicians at work who want to make accessories for it. But if the motor blows up, it will cost *considerably* more than the lathe to replace


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## jimi43

Hi Dick

I am constantly on the lookout for a good one and your comments are valued. 

Do you think that the 1200 is the better vintage? How does this compare to other Unimat models up to today's model?

Why is the motor an issue? Surely any suitable motor in size or HP would suffice in the unlikely event that you have a total motor failure.

IMHO...if a motor burns out then the lathe has been strained somewhat. Brushes can be replaced and commutators and bearings skimmed and replaced. Apart from that a total winding failure SHOULD be an unlikely even if the lathe is being used correctly. No?

Jim


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## frugal

jimi43":18uyosxb said:


> Hi Frugal....yes - if I find the correct "Startrite" metallic hammerite green spray I will post it here. I have a feeling that it MUST be available somewhere as there are so very many Startrite machines out there.



I was just having a look on the Hammerite site and as well as the standard 7 colours in the hammered selection they do radiator paint in any of the 1200 colours in the Dulux range (they are al made by ICL). I wonder if the Radiator pain would be good enough to protect it from rust in the workshop...


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## jimi43

frugal":34he7xhx said:


> jimi43":34he7xhx said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Frugal....yes - if I find the correct "Startrite" metallic hammerite green spray I will post it here. I have a feeling that it MUST be available somewhere as there are so very many Startrite machines out there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was just having a look on the Hammerite site and as well as the standard 7 colours in the hammered selection they do radiator paint in any of the 1200 colours in the Dulux range (they are al made by ICL). I wonder if the Radiator pain would be good enough to protect it from rust in the workshop...
Click to expand...


Hammerite also make a "Mid Green" Metallic Hammered finish...which looks to me to be almost an exact match. I can't seem to find it in spray though and the LAST thing I am going to put through any of my sprayguns is Hammerite...it is a total B*&ST**D to clean out!

If you see any anywhere let me know.

Jim


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## Billy Bodge

Nice job. I also have one to restore but the riving knife is missing. Could you email me a sketch / pattern of outline so I can make one up. :wink:


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## jimi43

Billy Bodge":18gjcdn6 said:


> Nice job. I also have one to restore but the riving knife is missing. Could you email me a sketch / pattern of outline so I can make one up. :wink:



Thanks for the comments on this rather old thread. As you are only in Ashford...perhaps you might want to come over sometime to see mine and have a look at the various things that might help you in your restoration. Word of warning...if your table top is not too badly damaged....don't rub it down just clean it off...as it is galvanised and any abrasion will remove this.

Having said that...it hasn't tarnished yet...in over two years.

A PDF of the riving knife is on the thread P2 but I have re-linked it HERE

Hope this helps.

Jim


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## Billy Bodge

Thanks for sketch. I had a look at mine and the table is Aluminium and I don't think it was ever machined to take knife. The casting under the table certainly hasn't been drilled to take anything. Perhaps I am running to big a blade. Where are you in Kent?


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## peterz

Hi guys - I have acquired an Inca bench saw (similar to Jims, I'll try and find the model). Seems to be in good working order. 

Wondered where I could get hold of a mitre fence. 

New to woodworking and looking forward to using it.


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## Bm101

Might have some luck here. http://incamachines.com/english


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## marcros

you are almost certainly going to struggle to get one. At best, you may be able to get something, and make it fit the inca.

good luck with the search, but dont bet your last pound on finding an inca one.


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## Deadeye

Hello

First post!

I too have picked up a battered Inca for a song and want to restore it.
The difference to the earlier posters is that 
a) I am pretty clueless about all steps of restoration (just coming to retirement so it's been interest at a distance until now)
b) I'm even more clueless about machinery
However
c) I am relentlessly optimistic and
d) a pretty quick learner.

This weekend I'm going to take it apart and start scrubbing. I'd really appreciate being in touch with Jimi about the breakdown steps if he's willing?

On blades I found Axminster do a 30mm to 15mm reducing washer, and also I found a 17mm blade with 30mm bore... so was hoping to use that combination to replace the rather tired one in the machine currently.

A couple of questions to start me off (and will evidence points a and b above fullsomely):
- For the ironwork (stand etc.) should I just go with sandpaper, seek out a sandblasting service, or dip in citrate or similar?
- If the above feeble attempt to avoid elbow grease fails, what sort of sandpaper should I buy?
- For the aluminium, I assume sandpaper - again what type (I understand a set of grades, it's more a recommendation of what/where to buy)?

Thanks

I'll post pictures when I work out how and have made at least a little progress!

John (in Bucks)


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## Bm101

John, I've sent you a pm re. Jim in case you haven't seen it. 
First stop for you is : https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/inc ... rking/info
Inca tools appreciation society. Lots of info. You'll need to register to join.
I use citric acid powder with water adding a touch of meths and a drop of fairy. Get some brass brushes, a scraper with replaceable blades and green pads. Get rid of as much rust as you can, soak, repeat. Takes a while to get going but is very effective but keep an eye on it.
There's lots of options for drill based cleaning from sanding pads to cup brushes etc. One site you could start with is Cromwell tools.
Personally I use wet and dry rather than sandpaper. If you get a cloth backed brand it will last longer.
You'll need to degrease before adding parts to the acid. I've also found that washing parts after with water and bicarb seems to prevent flash rusting.

Having said all that.... if you can have it sandblasted you're going to save yourself a heap of graft.

I've never restored aluminium so I can't give any advice with that. I'd be wary of anything at all aggressive. Razor blades and green pads maybe? 

Good luck, look forward to any updates. 
Regards 
Chris

Edit. I've just bought some paint from https://craftmaster.myshopify.com/colle ... ry-colours
Not used any yet but might help. There's some good painting tips on there to.


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## Deadeye

Thanks for the pm and very useful info here.

On the plus side, the saw has the little adjustable table at the back (mortising attachment?); but it's missing a riving knife.

I've ordered the 30->15mm reducers from Axminster... but now need to work out how to take it apart!

Travelling in hope!

John


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## Bm101

John,
Good to hear. Perhaps start a new thread as a wip in its own right with plenty of pics. Might well generate some interest in what seem to be a favourite brand of tool for many owners. Might generate a better response and critically from those far more qualified to answer your questions than me. Good luck and look forward to seeing more. Give Jim a shout on that link I sent sure he will be happy to reply. Look forward to any progress. Take care. 
Chris


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