# Painting over danish oil



## Hitch (16 May 2010)

I am making a small slab bench,(outdor use) from some reclaimed softwood.
I was going to paint it, but i had a moment when i could only find the paint in the colour i wanted at extortionate prices, and decided on an oil finish for speed,ease and cost saving.

I dont like it now, and wish to go back to the original idea  

I only put 2 coats of danish oil on it, i have attempted to sand it off, i get a little patch done then the disc cloggs up.  
How far should i be sanding? Will just getting the obviously visible traces off be sufficient? Then just prime/undercoat?
Or should i be sanding, then using something like thinners to remove any oil traces? :-k


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## Calpol (16 May 2010)

I think you'll need to remove the oil with something, meths or white spirit comes up in a Google search but it's not something I know much about! Oil is a penetrating finish though so I doubt you'll sand it off


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## yetloh (16 May 2010)

I seem to remember a similar question recently where Wood Finish Man who is expert in these things expressed the view that not much could be done with an oiled finish although that was not in the context of painting over it. He may well see this thread and respond - if not I am sure he would be happy to answer a PM. Alternatively, ask the technical department of the manufacturer of the paint you intend to use, they are generally very helpful

Jim


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## Paul Chapman (16 May 2010)

Jacob over on the other side raves about linseed oil paints http://www.holkham.co.uk/linseedpaints/ ... ation.html

Maybe that would work over Danish oil :-k 

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## yellowbelly (18 May 2010)

Try washing it down with WASHING SODA not caustic soda, dissolve it in as hot as is comfortable water keep adding until it no longer dissolves and then wash the surface down with the solution :wink:


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## Marko33 (24 May 2010)

Use mineral spirit and clean off,allow to dry.

Use shellac,if painting use zinsser B.I.N,it's a shellac based sealer.

Apply 1 coat allow a day to dry (yes it's dry in like 30 mins,thats not the point,I'll explain)recoat again allow 4 days min.

Here's why I do it this way,shellac can weaken under some paints,it's a temp thing,but makes it very weak.e g scratch it during this time and it'll go right back to the wood.
So by leaving it longer it hardens more.

You can put any coat over shellac so an undercoat,gloss system is fine but allow plenty drying time between coats.
I've used this when doing a house where the wood was waxed,I shellaced with zinsser bin left it 4 weeks and then proceeded with a normal prime,undercoat gloss,it looks great and they have 2 small children banging stuff against it,no damage!


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## cornucopia (26 May 2010)

do not use zinnser bin- it is only suitable for spot priming externally

I use zinnser coverstain which is oil based or you could also use dulux trade ultra grip or super grip or even ally primer-all will stick to any previousy oiled surface and then you can put the paint system of your choice on.


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## Hitch (30 May 2010)

I started painting prior to the last two posts.

I scraped and sanded a lot of it off that was visible anyway. I then gave it a few wipes down with some meths, another quick sand. 
Then i used an oil based exterior undercoat, went on well, and didnt seem to rub off once dry.

Two coats of undercoat, and 2 coats or exterior satinwood.

Cheers for the advice 8)


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