# Shed Build WIP



## The Bear (19 Dec 2009)

Hi
This thread is as much about me learning to post pictures as it is for you to see my shed build, so appologies if it's a bit slow.
After building the workshop, I needed to get as much of the none woody stuff out as possible, gardening tools, that sort of thing so a new shed was called for.
I didn't take any photos of the ground work stuff i'm afraid, but basically some small foundations and a few courses of bricks with airbricks for air circulation under the floor. I needed to get rid of a pile of horrible concrete paving slabs so I "lost" these in the base. 
Then the frame for the floor made from 4 x 2 tanalised . The centre joist is 4 x 4 oak I had laying around. There is a damp proof course between the wood and the bricks.


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## The Bear (19 Dec 2009)

That seems to have worked so I shall carry on.

Between the joists filled with 50mm celotex supported on short pieces of batten.






Then overlayed with 18mm second hand ply


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## The Bear (19 Dec 2009)

Then started to make the frames for the sides. Mainly 2 x 2 but a few strategically placed 2 x 4s as well. This is the front incorporating the door and window. Window was salvaged from the old extension in my house before we pulled it down. Note the wall plate left over sized to take the overhangs on the roof later.






I then lined each wall with more salvaged 18mm plyprior to putting them together. I just thought it would be easier this way, being able to line them while they were lying down. The ply is the stuff they put up around building sites. This came from Wimbledon tennis club, hence their purple corporate colour.


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## The Bear (19 Dec 2009)

Four sides screwed together, with the odd bit of ply lining still to go on.






Starting the roof timbers. 3 x 2s if I remember correctly, which should be fine as it is a very small roof. Pitch is 22.5 degrees if I remember right.


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## The Bear (19 Dec 2009)

The photos seem slightly too wide and I am having to scroll left and right sligtly. How do I get them to fit the width?

Carrying on, the roof was boarded, no surprises for guessing with second hand 18mm ply. My home made door was also hung. 






Then I started on the roof covering. I used Marley felt shingles from B and Poo, which were recomended to me. I have to say so far I am impressed with them. The edging goes on first and I did the fancy folding under itself for a neat look. The corners involve a bit of origami. I stuck it down and tacked it which was probably overkill.


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## The Bear (19 Dec 2009)

The inside got a coat of white paint.
Roof finished.
Started to get some insulation in the outside walls. Mixture of celotex and polystyrene. What ever I could find laying around really, wanting to spend as little as possible. I decided not to bother with a breather membrane or a vapour barrier. I just think its overkill for something like this, its a garden shed after all. (I'd put them in my workshop though if it was built like this)






The inside was also insulated and the electrics went in. Then clad with Wickes cheapest, thinest tongue and groove (I bought all the damaged packs and got them for half price!


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## The Bear (19 Dec 2009)

Next up, clad it with 6 inch featheredge, painted before putting up. One nail at the bottom, board above clamps the top down


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## The Bear (19 Dec 2009)

And thats it, all finished. Well more or less, just needs a bit of guttering and a water butt for watering the veg patch that is now in front of it.
Just need to transfer everything across from the workshop and sort that out. Oh and that ropey looking 4 foot fence in front is now down, it was only temporary to screen the mess. Hope you enjoyed.

Mark


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## The Bear (19 Dec 2009)

Forgot to say, the window is a cheap double glazed panel with some of that frosting film on it so no one can see in. Bars across the inside as well.

Mark


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## devonwoody (19 Dec 2009)

Nice summer weather you have got around there.  

I reckon your shed should last a lifetime. Got to be one of the top ten sheds on this forum for quality.


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## MikeG. (19 Dec 2009)

At last!

This is almost, almost, the model of how to do a workshop or shed. It really is simple, chaps, isn't it!! All the ingredients are there........ a brick plinth, *inner* lining of ply or OSB and properly fixed feather-edge boarding. My only criticism would be lack of spacing between the back of the boards and the framing, and a bit of building paper over the frame.

Well done The Bear.

Mike


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## Waka (19 Dec 2009)

Really nice result and nice easy to follow instructions for all those workshop builders.


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## OPJ (19 Dec 2009)

Looks like you've done well.

Are you _sure_ you don't want to use it as a secondary workshop???


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## devonwoody (19 Dec 2009)

I've bookmarked this one, I need a turning shed sometime in the future that can be worked in the winter.


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## Modernist (19 Dec 2009)

That is one posh shed - nice job


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## The Bear (21 Dec 2009)

Passed Mike's scrutiny, more or less, blimey thats a relief (Mike I do think you should write a "sticky" for the forum - how to build a timber workshop)

Thanks for all the other complimentary remarks. I am hoping it will last a lifetime with a bit of TLC in the future.

Mark


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## studders (21 Dec 2009)

Sorry but... that's just too damn tidy and well built for a Shed.


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## The Bear (21 Dec 2009)

The inside is tidy no longer!!!

Mark


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## studders (21 Dec 2009)

The Bear":2udid6iq said:


> The inside is tidy no longer!!!
> 
> Mark



Good Man.  

I'm still not convinced it isn't a retreat though. :wink:


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## devonwoody (6 Jan 2012)

Looked through your thread again, and see you never quoted the estimated cost for 2009.


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## The Bear (7 Jan 2012)

Don't think I was ever asked. Bit of an estimate now but I reason about £600. Remember I used lots of second hand material, seconds, rejects and recycled stuff. 

Mark


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## markyl (3 Mar 2016)

Hi guys,

Sorry if I've put this in the wrong place, first post  Been looking at this with interest as planning something almost identical and note the comment about it's an example of a model example of how to build a shed. Want to do something to last as this method keeps the water away from the base and not just treated bearers sitting on a concrete pad, which would get wet.

Question - why does the ply or osb need to be on the inside? Conscious of moisture etc.

Was planning on (from inside out) stud work 3x2, then 9mm ply, then breathable membrane, then vertical batons, then outside horizontal cladding/ sarking. The batons allowing air gap behind the featheredge.

If it's not to be insulated as it'll be just 'a well built shed', then does this sound ok?

Would value your expert thoughts!! Cheers guys.


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## RobinBHM (3 Mar 2016)

Your construction detail will work well.

I made a large shed with 100x 50 studs, 18mm osb3, tyvek housewrap, 50 x 25 tiling battens, feathedge.

Before fitting the tyvek membrane, I stapled on one strip of 200dpc around the bottom edge of the perimeter and positioned about 50mm below the bottom edge. It acts as a drip and protects the bottom plate from any rain.

The ply or osb can be fitted inside or outside. I chose the outside as it gives support to the breathable membrane and leaves space between the studs internally for insulation, although it will then need an internal sheet to finish the walls.

I think it is possible to fit the celetex on the outside of the studwork then tape the joints, screw on 50 x 25 tiling batten and then cladding. The foil on the celetex once taped is a waterproof barrier so no need for membrane. I would look at tyvek site and kingspan for recommended construction detail.

Either way, having a small cavity will have a massive impact on the weathertightness and life span of the claddjng and framework.

You could use either 11mm or18mm osb3, its quite waterproof and cheaper than ply.

Tyvek housewrap is very good but cromar vent 3 also works and is cheaper. My shed is bone dry inside, no hint of condensation, even though ive yet to complete the outside claddjng, so the osb and tyvek definitely work.


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## blackrodd (3 Mar 2016)

RobinBHM":j766s13a said:


> Your construction detail will work well.
> 
> I made a large shed with 100x 50 studs, 18mm osb3, tyvek housewrap, 50 x 25 tiling battens, feathedge.
> 
> ...



I fully agree with Robins reply, the only criticism I would have on this very good build, is that I would put some joist support down the centre of the floor joists, to strengthen it, unless of course you were to up the joist size to 6x2,
But I would still fix bridging down through.
You never quite know what heavy bargain can come along, at a later date!
Regards Rodders


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## The Bear (3 Mar 2016)

Markyl, Welcome to the forum

My take on this is slightly different to above.

If you are having insulation there is a best way round, and that is to have the ply (or OSB) inside. The ply being full of glue effectively acts as a vapour barrier. If you put the ply outside you risk trapping any moisture that gets into your cavity and insulation, inside with no way out of the building. If you do put the ply on the outside you may as well get rid of the breather membrane, since there will be no vapour coming through the ply for it to let out. 

If you are not having insulation it matters less which side it goes on. If on the outside you'll presumably have open studwork inside so nowhere for moisture/vapour to get trapped. 

As I said just my take and others will disagree and have had no problems with their construction. You have already identified the biggest thing you can do is get any wood at the base off the damp ground above a DPC. Then any shed well built with decent stud sizing, nice thick ply giving it solidity and well fitted outside sheathing will lost a long time compared to anything you will buy for a similar price regardless of whether the ply is inside or out.

I have moved since I built this shed, when I moved it had been up 5 years. It was showing no signs of degrading at all and wasn't even ready for a new coat of paint. I wish I could have brought it to the new house with me.

Good luck with your build and remember we like WIPs like this one of mine

Mark


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## tomf (4 Mar 2016)

Just to add to this osb is not really a vapour control layer, osb is good as a wind barrier but has a medium vapour permeability so you should NOT relay on it and should add a layer of plastic on the warm side of the wall.


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