# WIP - My First Workbench



## morfa (19 Feb 2013)

So this evening I started on my workbench build. Currently I only have a small 8x6 shed, so that's going to limit the size of the bench. It'll probably be 5ft by 2ft basically. As soon as I've got a bit more cash I've got the go ahead to turn the concrete slab that was the rear access car parking space into a proper workshop, that's 14ft by 8ft. At the moment I'm just in the planing the 2x4 stage. Also I've not got enough clamps to put the worktop together. Got the first two done, took about an hour and a half. Pretty poor I guess, but this is pretty much the first serious load of planing I've ever done.

In fact on that note, is it normal to get blisters on your hands when doing lots of planing?

I'm doing a mix of the bench here:

http://paulsellers.com/series/building-a-workbench/

and this one:

http://picnicpark.org/keith/woodworking ... nch-ne.pdf

I'm also planning on using holdfasts so wasn't going to bother with the rectangular dog slots. Or should I put them in?

Well or no well?

I'll be doing the removable aprons as per Paul Sellers to make moving it to the 'main' workshop once that's built a bit easier. Some of the stuff he does seems a bit faffy, but hopefully shouldn't be too hard/take me too long. Anyway, here's a pic of my kitchen/workshop as it stands:


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## marcros (19 Feb 2013)

i wouldnt bother with the rectangular dog holes. they are more complex than they look because they need a slight angle to them.


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## carlb40 (19 Feb 2013)

TBH i would just make a very basic bench for now. My first bench ( still use it) was a trestle design with a torsion box top infilled with extra ply / mdf.

That way you get to know what you do/don't need in a bench. I will be making a Roubo bench this year as i now realise what my present bench is lacking in. 

I will be going the round dog hole route as there seems to be more options available for them.

If you can afford it, i highly recommend this book 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Workbenches-b ... 51a7c1d2e9


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## marcros (19 Feb 2013)

carlb40":11b99vg0 said:


> TBH i would just make a very basic bench for now. My first bench ( still use it) was a trestle design with a torsion box top infilled with extra ply / mdf.
> 
> That way you get to know what you do/don't need in a bench. I will be making a Roubo bench this year as i now realise what my present bench is lacking in.
> 
> ...



+1 for the book. I paid a bit less on Amazon I think- about a tenner or so


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## speeder1987 (19 Feb 2013)

carlb40":1nvplogi said:


> TBH i would just make a very basic bench for now. My first bench ( still use it) was a trestle design with a torsion box top infilled with extra ply / mdf.
> 
> That way you get to know what you do/don't need in a bench. I will be making a Roubo bench this year as i now realise what my present bench is lacking in.
> 
> ...



I think this is very good advice, I built a basic bench and as I use it more and more, the little things are annoying me more and more. For instance I made the bench a little to low, even though I thought it would be right for me and it hurts my back a bit when I use it. 

Also the book suggested is very good and can be had slightly cheaper as an ebook, if moneys an issue

John


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## Roughcut (19 Feb 2013)

I would recommend round dog holes.
Since building my own bench i've purchased a Veritas planing stop and wonder pups.
Both very handy to have for doing surface planing on the bench and they fit snugly into 3/4" round dog holes.


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## morfa (19 Feb 2013)

It is going to be pretty cheap and basic. I'm just laminating 2x4s together for the worktop and building fairly boring legs out of 4x4s (or 2x4s glued together). I probably will stick a apron on it. The tool well might go by the way side as well, seems like hassle. I'm trying to stick more to the Paul Sellers design as he's got a load of videos on Youtube showing you how to make the bench. Vicewise, I'm just putting a standard QR vice on it. Whatever I can find that's cheap basically.

The thing that's taking most of the time currently is the planing as I'm not very good at it. Then I've got to clear out the shed.

I've heard of Chris Schwartz's book, but at the moment, I'm probably going to stick with the two plans I've got.


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## carlb40 (19 Feb 2013)

marcros":l6wat1pr said:


> carlb40":l6wat1pr said:
> 
> 
> > TBH i would just make a very basic bench for now. My first bench ( still use it) was a trestle design with a torsion box top infilled with extra ply / mdf.
> ...




Yeah i got my copy just before xmas for about 12 quid i think. Best money i have ever spent


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## keithkarl2007 (20 Feb 2013)

The key thing with workbenches is work-holding. I haven't got a workbench either and it will be the first thing I will build. It's something I don't want to rebuild if it doesn't suit me so I'm in the planning stages figuring out the best affordable work-holding methods. It's something you should think about along with leg vises and such. I think the split top would be a good idea also.


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## morfa (7 Mar 2013)

First half of the first half of the workbench is almost done.

I've decided on the dimensions of the well etc. The diagram I've got shows it better, but this is how it will end up width wise.

1" apron
16" back section (2x4s)
6" well
6" back section (2x4s)
1" apron

So that's 30" in total.

Piccy of the first 4, 2x4s ready. So there's 8 in the first section in total. Hoping to get the rest of it done tomorrow and glue it all up. About 3 nights worth of work so far. It's taken me a while to get the hang of planing. Never done it before. But I'm getting better at planing the 2x4s so they're ready.






Wondering what everyone does with all the shavings? I've got loads now and it seems a bit wasteful to bin them all.

Also what size vice? 7" or 9"? Any makes good? Quick Release or not? Or will a cheap one do?

eg

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QUICK-RELEASE ... 19d8d4a884


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## carlb40 (7 Mar 2013)

Looking good there. My bench has a quick release vice. It is nice to have a quick release vice feature. Mine will probably be up for sale in a few weeks or so.

Unfortunately i bin my shavings/ saw dust etc. It is a waste as in the last 8 days i have had 7 or 8 dustbin bags full thrown away


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## Jacob (7 Mar 2013)

marcros":298guyis said:


> i wouldnt bother with the rectangular dog holes. they are more complex than they look because they need a slight angle to them.


Why's that then? Mine seems to work fine. 
It's 1" square in a hole same size hacked through with a firmer chisel. Just a tight fit. The dog is long so I can trim the top end many times before I need another.
But I wouldn't bother with dogs to begin with. Paul Sellers trick with sash cramps is a very good alternative. Like a lot of simple things - it's better than it looks!
Also I'd stick with Sellers bench design. It's more or less the UK standard as used everywhere and is amongst the easiest to build.


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## ColeyS1 (7 Mar 2013)

My dog holes are just morticed through with a 3/4 bit. They also hold the veritas holdfast just fine. I originally made some round aluminium dogs, varying height but they very rarely get used- similar story with the wonder dog, very rarely gets used




These are the main holding devices I use in the dog holes- a square peg with a square bit of wood on top :lol: another advantage I found using the square peg, is for quick plaining it doesn't matter if the work piece is bang on in line with the peg. Using the completely round ones would cause the wood to shoot off (if not central ) and cause me to swear :roll:


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## morfa (8 Mar 2013)

Dog holes - At the moment, I'm not putting any dogs in. I figure they can be added afterwards. I was planning on using holdfasts to be honest, I like the look of the ones here - http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/sho ... cts_id=266 - haven't got the money at the moment, so they'll have to wait a while. I do like the idea of square holes tho, makes sense, that way the dog will always be square.

Vice - So is size important? 7" or 9"?


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## carlb40 (8 Mar 2013)

If you do a search on here for holdfasts, you will find a hooge thread. Those are made by one of our very own esteemed members and work very well. 
As to the vice, it depends on what you wish to use it for? How big a capacity you need? Plus you can add wooden cheeks to the vice to extend the width slightly 

EDIT

Found the thread 
holdfast-group-buy-may-have-found-a-uk-blacksmith-t42256.html


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## morfa (8 Mar 2013)

Simple answer is, I don't really know. I've not been woodworking that long, this is my first real project. Most of the stuff that I've got planned to do will probably be on the longer side of things. So planing planks smooth for shelves. Making cabinets. Making small kitchen worktops. So they probably won't be that thick. But they probably will be long. I'm actually thinking I'll end up with two vices at each end to hold the long stuff. But I'll see if I need that once it's built.


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## carlb40 (8 Mar 2013)

Don't bother with a second vice yet. Just use a clamp to clamp the board to the apron. Or once you have the holdfasts you can use those in the apron to hold the timber.


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## Benchwayze (12 Mar 2013)

Morf... 

14 x 8 feet isn't big enough either. Mine is 17.5 x 9. and it's a pain trying to work in an aisle that is 4 foot wide at its widest. It was fine thirty years ago, but as you buy machinery, you soon fill up a space. So now I encroach onto the drive, and have to work in public (No swearing allowed of course) and limited to suitable weather for using the track saw. Most inconvenient; especially not being able to curse now and again.

Were I twenty years younger I would ignore SWIMBO, extend the mortgage and build a decent sized shop in the back-garden. :mrgreen: 
Best of luck


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## morfa (13 Mar 2013)

Benchwayze - no machines, hand tools only. I don't see that changing either. I might be able to extend the base by a few feet to say, 14x10ft, but not more than that.

I bought the 9" cheap vice from ebay. It seems ok so far. However I knackered my shoulder over the weekend, so have made no more progress.


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## Phil Pascoe (13 Mar 2013)

A short length of spur type shelving support screwed to to leg is useful; use a short shelf bracket, and take it out when not in use or you'll run it into your leg. It allows you to position or level something before cramping it up.


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## marcros (13 Mar 2013)

there is a good thread on the forum about fitting one of these vices- well worth a search. I cant remember the author unfortunately.


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## morfa (13 Mar 2013)

marcros":10rw6635 said:


> there is a good thread on the forum about fitting one of these vices- well worth a search. I cant remember the author unfortunately.



Yeah, found that. Hopefully clamping a piece of wood the right height in the clamp so that I can rest most of the weight on the floor should do it. It's a lot heavier than I had expected.


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## Jacob (13 Mar 2013)

Easiest if you tip the bench on to it's back.


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## Roughcut (13 Mar 2013)

morfa":39ildn1z said:


> marcros":39ildn1z said:
> 
> 
> > there is a good thread on the forum about fitting one of these vices- well worth a search. I cant remember the author unfortunately.
> ...



That's how I fitted my 9" vice (18kg).
I dropped the coach bolts into the holes in the bench and kept the 4 nuts close to hand.
Then clamped a piece of 4" x 2" into the vice jaws at the correct height and located the base of the vice up into the bolts.
It's actually quite a straightforward method and as you are not bearing the full weight of the vice is not too strenuous.


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## Benchwayze (13 Mar 2013)

Morph...!


Wot Jacob sedd....

8)


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## morfa (24 Apr 2013)

Slow progress on this. Finally got all the wood. Cut the 4x4s to size for the uprights. Cut all the 2x4s to length. Just started glueing up the first apron.

I'm holding off cutting the horizontal bits for the leg frames as I don't know how wide I want it. Now it's going into a larger shed, I'm thinking it might be better off being more like 3ft wide and not 2ft wide.


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## carlb40 (24 Apr 2013)

A wider bench is useful if in the middle with access all the way round? If it's against a wall, you will struggle to reach the rear of the bench.


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## marcros (25 Apr 2013)

carlb40":1cc61tu4 said:


> A wider bench is useful if in the middle with access all the way round? If it's against a wall, you will struggle to reach the rear of the bench.



Be brave. if it is going against a wall, go for 18"-20" inches instead of 2ft!

We all work differently, but next time you are cooking, look at how much of your 2ft work surface you are using for activity, and how rubbish gets stored at the back 6". Certainly the case in my kitchen...


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## Phil Pascoe (25 Apr 2013)

Yes, the back 6" is the bit you need to put the stuff you're not using.


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## marcros (25 Apr 2013)

but not another 12" behind that!


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## rich.h (27 Apr 2013)

Having just done my first bench I can say I'm glad I cut down the width. The original plans called for a bench 26" deep yet I find even with just 21" I have more than enough space. The channel in the back for holding tools happily doubles up as extra support for wider pieces of work.


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## morfa (29 Apr 2013)

rich.h":3s6algqv said:


> Having just done my first bench I can say I'm glad I cut down the width. The original plans called for a bench 26" deep yet I find even with just 21" I have more than enough space. The channel in the back for holding tools happily doubles up as extra support for wider pieces of work.



Rich, what are the dimensions of your bench then?

Currently I've got:

14" for the solid front of the bench
8" for the well
2" at the back - that's the apron

Which is 26" in total. I really don't want to loose anything of the front and the well fits a plane on it's side nicely. So not sure I want to take anything off that either. I suppose I could make the well a lot deeper and a lot narrower as at the moment it's quite shallow.


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## Dangermouse (29 Apr 2013)

I have been meaning to build a new bench to replace my old one that is literally falling to pieces and a couple of weeks ago bit the bullet and started. This is more a stop gap bench until I get to make my ultimate bench when my new workshop is finished at the end of the year. But it will be very solid and fit for purpose. measurements are 
77" long
24" wide including rear well
Top is 16.5" wide x 2.5" thick
Legs 4" square
35.5" tall

Construction is fairly simple, no aprons, (not a fan). But good thick and wide main beams to combat rocking. The front of top is flush with the legs and front beams. I will be having a Record 52 as an end vice and a big old Parkinson for the front vice. The top is beech with reclaimed redwood / pine frame. Joints are pegged mortise and tennon. The photo's show the bench in a trail run to see how it fits. there are a few things to adjust but other wise all looking good.


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## morfa (17 May 2013)

DM - thanks for the photos. Looks really nice for a 'stopgap' bench.

I think I've settled on a 20" width. But I've got enough wood to go up to 22".

Got both aprons done. They went together fairly well. Also done the main benchtop. Which went less well. I'm basically gluing 2x4s together to make a 4" thick worktop. But one or two of them seem to have 'splayed' out slightly, so while it's ok at one side, the other side has a small gap. Also cut all the pieces for the legs now. I'll post some photos later on. Hoping to finish it all over the weekend.


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## MickCheese (17 May 2013)

morfa":379rmzum said:


> rich.h":379rmzum said:
> 
> 
> > Having just done my first bench I can say I'm glad I cut down the width. The original plans called for a bench 26" deep yet I find even with just 21" I have more than enough space. The channel in the back for holding tools happily doubles up as extra support for wider pieces of work.
> ...



14+8+2 is not 26 unless I have read that wrongly?  

Mick


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## Dangermouse (17 May 2013)

morfa":1my71a25 said:


> DM - thanks for the photos. Looks really nice for a 'stopgap' bench.
> 
> I think I've settled on a 20" width. But I've got enough wood to go up to 22".
> 
> Got both aprons done. They went together fairly well. Also done the main benchtop. Which went less well. I'm basically gluing 2x4s together to make a 4" thick worktop. But one or two of them seem to have 'splayed' out slightly, so while it's ok at one side, the other side has a small gap. Also cut all the pieces for the legs now. I'll post some photos later on. Hoping to finish it all over the weekend.



Thanks Morfa, As to gaps if they are really small it wont matter to the use of the bench, just fill them and sand down. I'm sure over the years they will just blend in.


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## morfa (17 May 2013)

MickCheese":3iomy2az said:


> 14+8+2 is not 26 unless I have read that wrongly?
> 
> Mick



Mick

I've change the dimensions since then anyway. But yeah, your maths is better than mine, that was 24".

Currently got:

14" for the front
4" for the well
2" for the apron at the back

At the moment, I'm seriously considering not bothering with the well at all. As I think a small well will be useless.


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## marcros (17 May 2013)

you could always look at having a well at the back, the far side of the apron, if it is going against a wall. I am about to do that on mine, because i need to have the back edge of my bench 6 inches from the wall (for a router planing sled I am making)- i may as well use that gap. Or, you could fashion something that fits into dog holes at the front, so that you can move it to where you are working on the bench (or even just held down with a holdfast). It would be more of a tool box that a well, but would serve the purpose, and you could just move it as needed. 

If you wanted to be super fancy, you could make some dogs and thread one end. then make a nut to fit them, and hold the box between apron and not.


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## morfa (17 May 2013)

marcros":gyyhbv8o said:


> you could always look at having a well at the back, the far side of the apron, if it is going against a wall. I am about to do that on mine, because i need to have the back edge of my bench 6 inches from the wall (for a router planing sled I am making)- i may as well use that gap. Or, you could fashion something that fits into dog holes at the front, so that you can move it to where you are working on the bench (or even just held down with a holdfast). It would be more of a tool box that a well, but would serve the purpose, and you could just move it as needed.
> 
> If you wanted to be super fancy, you could make some dogs and thread one end. then make a nut to fit them, and hold the box between apron and not.



I like that idea. I'm planning on putting a tool rack & shelves directly behind the bench and I'm normally fairly tidy, so the plan is to put stuff that I'm not using away in that.


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## MickCheese (17 May 2013)

I don't like a well as unlike you I am not too tidy and my tools seem to disappear under heaps of shavings. I tend to use a small trolley next to the bench to place tools on. 

As I have said before a new bench is high on my list so following this with interest. 

Mick


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## morfa (20 May 2013)

Ok, so I've cut the tenons on the left of each of the crossmembers. Being a bit wimpy, but I'm going to get them fitted and then I'll put them under the bench and cut them to size based on the size of the bench and not rely on my awful measuring. The tenons are pretty awful, but I've never done them before. My inability to be accurate in two planes is causing issues. They're normally ok horizontally, but vertically, they tend to go inwards. The aprons and worktop are planed fairly flat. Filled in the small cracks on the worktop (which will probably end up on the bottom, but there we go).

I started on the first mortice. Taking me ages to do it. Worked on it for about an hour and I'm still not finished. Hopefully the others will go quicker. I think I'll drill some of the rest just to speed things up a bit. But it's a bit annoying as I've got 8 to cut. If it's going to take 8 hours to do all of them, that's a pain. Going to do a couple more this evening and glue the apron and main worktop together. So it's getting to the point, where, it's really just the legs to go and then I'm pretty much done. Hopefully it'll be mostly done by the bank holiday.

Few extra questions:

Fixing the worktop on - I'm planning on using coach screws. I've got some 120mm screws, the cross members are 90mm wide, so that's 30mm in the worktop (which is 100mm thick). Should be enough?

Would it be a good idea to cut a shallow groove (dado?) in the bottom of the worktop, for the leg frames to sit in? Just a cm deep or so.


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## morfa (20 May 2013)

As promised, some extra photos. The worktop, apron, a leg and a crossmember. With most of the rest of the bench in the background.







First ever attempt at a tenon. Ooops.






Same naff tenon, different angle.






Third one I think. Bit better. Still wonky tho.


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## morfa (20 May 2013)

MickCheese":26d96wnb said:


> I don't like a well as unlike you I am not too tidy and my tools seem to disappear under heaps of shavings. I tend to use a small trolley next to the bench to place tools on.
> 
> As I have said before a new bench is high on my list so following this with interest.
> 
> Mick



The trolley sounds like a neat idea. Might have to nab that one.

As you can probably see, I'm not the best person to be following for advice or anything. I'd imagine this is a good example of what not to do however...


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## morfa (22 May 2013)

Drilled a few of the mortices. It speeds things up no end, unsurprisingly. I don't drill the whole thing out, just about 3/4s of the 30mm, enough to take it down to 20-30 mins per mortice. Sadly I've managed to break my father in laws drill (this is the second loaned drill that I've done in now...) mainly cause he buys el cheapo drills from Lidl. Well not break, but it won't hold a charge for long enough to do a decent amount of drilling.


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## morfa (24 May 2013)

Think I'm up to 5 mortices now. Only one of them will actually accept the tenon, they all need quite a bit of trimming. But might be done over the weekend with a lot of luck.


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## marcros (24 May 2013)

how many more to go? you will gain more confidence with mortices and tenons as you do more. you will dare to go a bit closer to your lines etc.


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## morfa (24 May 2013)

marcros":3p97xqjd said:


> how many more to go? you will gain more confidence with mortices and tenons as you do more. you will dare to go a bit closer to your lines etc.



Four legs each with two mortices on them. So eight in total and three more to go. As I mentioned, I'd been using a drill to take out the middle, but I've managed to kill it doing that, so I now have to bash the whole thing out. It's a 30mm mortice, through 90mm of wood and I'm using a 25mm bevel edge chisel. It's all working ok, but I'm pretty sure I'm not doing it in the best way. I'm fairly sure that a easier way would be a brace and a 30mm bit, to take it all out exactly.


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## marcros (24 May 2013)

if you had a bit more time, i would suggest getting a big pig sticker that you can really belt. but you will have likely done them before it would get to you. however, it would be a tenner well spent if you can wait. a 3/4" or so.

I tried a few methods when i did my bench, and i found that by hand was pretty much as easy as setting up a router, and almost as quick. that was with the aforementioned pig sticker. on the table i am doing, i have used a router, which wasnt as quick as i had expected. plunge down and up, move, plunge down and up, move etc. then plunge and clean the shoulders by moving along the series of overlapping holes. 90mm, or 45mm from each side would possibly need an extended cutter though.

you may find it easier to do the tenons with a router, but do the shoulder cuts with a saw first. if they are all to be the same, you can clamp the rails together.


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## morfa (27 May 2013)

All mortices done. Tenon's done as well. Both frames together. One has gone together well and is (fairly) square. The other is giving me no end of troubles. Currently fettling the tenons to try and make it all square(ish). But it's giving me no end of headaches / frustration.

Had really hoped to be putting the worktop on this evening, but I can't see that happening now. Photos later on if you're all lucky.


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## marcros (27 May 2013)

What is causing the issue- tenon shoulders?


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## morfa (27 May 2013)

Erm, well I had been getting really annoyed with the frames, as when I put them on the workmate, they seemed square(ish), but when standing up, they were wonky and awful. Till I realised that the floor tiles, weren't exactly perfectly flat and that the legs weren't exactly the same length. So I put some newspaper under one leg and suddenly it was all only out by a few mm, not the inch or so that it had been. I've got to cut quite a bit off the legs anyway, so that's not an issue.

It's all pretty rough and ready, most of it's out by a few mm or so in most parts. A couple of joints are quite good, but a couple have 3-4mm gaps. But it's all close enough and I can't really see what I can do to get it all 100%. I reckon it'll go together ok and once it's all done, it should be fine.






This one isn't too bad.






I was trying to chisel off a couple of mm to make it fit in the mortice properly. Well it fits fine now!!! Two taps and the whole chunk just came off. Was very upset.


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## Dangermouse (28 May 2013)

To make your tenons really tight and fit the mortises, all you need to do is put in a couple of wedges in the tenon. Hammer them home and that will spread the tenon to fit the mortise. 

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/tec ... tenon.aspx

http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowledge ... joint.html


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## rich.h (29 May 2013)

Sorry for the delay but the bench I made is approx:

21" depth
72" Width
36" High ( I can never hack bending down while working for long without pain)

Have to admire you making proper joints for your first bench, I ended up uses screws and glue to just get something solid and working that will last me a good few years before one day delving into a real hardwood bench when my skills are up to it. Though I did cheat somewhat, the entire bench is really just four flat box panel put together, the real trick being the sides and back panel are all held solid with two lengths of 20mm threaded bar and nuts. Had to use stilsons to tighten them properly but since doing so on two occasions it held me using the bench as a step to do a bit of minor roof repair, I work on ladders most of the day and never at work do I feel as stable as I do on this bench.


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## morfa (30 May 2013)

rich - thanks for the details. Mine is:

20" deep
60" wide
39" high

However I'll probably take it down to 36", see how I like that and then lower as needed. I can lower it down to 32" or so without too much faff. I'm glad you're impressed by those joints, cause I'm not. But they hold together without glue quite well, so it's not all bad. However it's not cost more than £100 so far, so I'm happy with that. I can see it being replaced quite soon however. But it should do the job for now.


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## morfa (30 May 2013)

The frames are gluing up now.

I have cut the grooves in the bottom of the workbench and they seem to be a good idea. The legs settle into the top nicely. Hopefully I'll be able to put it all together over the weekend. It's just screwing it all up now. Then fitting the vice.

Climbing tomorrow night, so won't get to do it then.


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## jetsetwilly (4 Jun 2013)

Nice thread, and I must say it's very refreshing to see somebody posting work that isn't utterly perfect! But you just cost me about 2h as I'd never discovered Paul Sellers before. Now I'm feeling a bit ashamed of my machines, but even more keen to build a proper bench. I dropped on some scrap beech worktop last week, so I think I'm going to use that for the top, just not sure whether to use it single or double thickness - is 80mm of beech overkill? If I use single then I'll have enough to go round the other tops in my single garage, otherwise I'll have to use some old laminate I have lying around (ick). And would it be criminal to put softwood aprons on a beech top? Not sure I can bring myself to 'waste' the beech on aprons...

As for dogs, I reckon 19mm round holes will allow you to use the widest variety of bits and bobs in future.


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## morfa (5 Jun 2013)

jetsetwilly - Thanks for the kind words. I know it all looks naff now, but in a year or two when I'm a lot better, I know I'll be happy I can look back on what I've done and the mistakes I've made. Also if I'm building something 'nice' I'll be more meticulous. This is 'just' a workbench and I need it ASAP for working on. 

It's nearly done now and it's looking much better now that it's all together. I've got the worktop and the front apron on. I'll do the other apron soon. Once it's been planed on the top and tidied up a bit, it'll look ok I reckon.

My workbench is 2x4s laminated together so 80mm sounds fine to me. I know that holdfasts don't work so well once the thickness of the top is over 3". My top is about 90mm thick I think. I don't think that's overkill. Now it's all together it's very solid, which is the idea.


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## marcros (5 Jun 2013)

you can always counterbore the holes from the underside to help the holdfasts work in a thick top.


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## Paul Chapman (5 Jun 2013)

morfa":1rknu3r6 said:


> I know that holdfasts don't work so well once the thickness of the top is over 3".



Good tip here from Richard Maguire on how to make your holdfasts grip better, even in a thicker bench top http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?p=1329

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## morfa (11 Jun 2013)

The end is finally in sight. Really just the vice to install and it's mostly done. So here's a few more photos.

As you can see the worktop is perfectly straight and neat:






There is a tool rail at the back. It's not there cause I messed up the measurements. That's on purpose.






It has a custom DNA based makers mark.






The tenons fit perfectly.






The worktop is fitted with quality joinery.






The apron is fitted using top notch joinery and doesn't have any foot prints from where I stood on it.






I'll take some overall photos once the vice is in.


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## Boxer (28 Jun 2013)

Hi Morfa

Yes mate .... I have been using your posts as inspiration for getting me started on my own bench. So thanks for all the updates. 

Have you managed to fit your vice yet ?

This final step still seems a little way away for me and I am wondering if it will be an easy or complicated thing ?


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## morfa (28 Jun 2013)

The vice is fitted now and I've chopped a few inches off the legs. I've just got to tidy up the ends and then it's basically done.

Assuming you're doing it like me then it's not that hard to fit. I marked out the area, drilled it out and bashed the rest out with a chisel. it didn't fit well initially so I ended up taking it out and back in about 20 times to get it in. Which if you're not fit then I guess that could be a problem. I ended up putting the bench on it's back so I could see what was stopping it from going in. But yeah, it wasn't mega hard in the end.


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## morfa (31 Oct 2013)

So far final dimensions are:

5 feet long
19" wide (it's probably a tidge to wide really)
38" high (probably could do with being 36")

I've finally got round to chopping the ends off. The holdfasts are on their way. I've bought Richard T of this parish's holdfasts off Richard Maguire. I'll be drilling the dog holes this weekend. It's had a few coats of danish oil now as well.

Part way through the first end:







The left end:






The right end:






I'll post some close ups of the vice over the weekend. 

The only thing that I'm really not happy about is that I've not fitted the vice flush with the apron. Other than that it's pretty good. The legs aren't 100% even, but then my kitchen floor is even wonkier. When I get it into the workshop, I'll try and get them properly level.


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## Steve-O (27 Dec 2013)

This is a great bench, thanks for sharing it, it's give me great inspiration for my bench. 

Sorry if I've missed it but what is it made of? Pine? 

I was thinking of making mine from CLS or Regs carcassing, do people think that would be ok?

Stephen


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## morfa (27 Dec 2013)

Yup, pine, standard two by four, PSE. Mostly bought from the local timber yard, but got some from Wickes as well. Probably about £100 or so all in (including the bolts and coach screws).

I really will post some pictures of the vice eventually, but it's a bit of a mess vicewise at the moment, so I'd rather fix it and then post pics of it once it's been sorted out.


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## wcndave (2 Jul 2014)

Did you ever get this finished in the end?


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## morfa (3 Jul 2014)

The vice has been refitted, but I'm still to cut the large bit of oak sitting next to it for the jaws. So yes and no. I've been spending the last few months in the garden, so haven't needed to use the workbench much, hence it not getting done.


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## morfa (16 Jul 2014)

Finally fitted the vice properly. Well it was on after a fashion for a while. But it's properly done now. Here's a few photos. Firstly I flipped the bench, took the vice apart and bolted it to the bottom of the bench. Put the vice back through the hole in the apron. Then put the bench upright again.






I then planed and tidied up the bit of oak I had earmarked for the vice.






Drilled a few holes in it and put a couple of small bolts through the wood to hold it in place.


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