# wax polishes



## marcros (2 May 2014)

I have a couple of tins of the black bison paste wax, which I have been very impressed with. I haven't used any others though. I normally wipe on a coat on top of either oil or shellac, let it dry and give it a buff. 

I now need a different colour for a project, and would appreciate some feedback from the forum on preferences.

Readily available seem to be Mylands, Briwax, Fiddes or more of the Liberon Black Bison. All around the same price within a pound or so.

Any thoughts?


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## Spindle (2 May 2014)

Hi

Interesting post. I too have stuck with 'the devil I know' and only ever used Liberon Black Bison with which I'm very happy.

Looking forward to input from others who can compare their experience with Liberon to other waxes.

Regards Mick


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## Random Orbital Bob (2 May 2014)

That reminds me, I turned an ash apple the other day and used that very same black bison wax. It's only the 2nd time I've used it so wasn't entirely sure what to expect. It basically filled the pores and thus intensified the grain pattern. The rest of the smoother surface it left a rather muddy colour. Is the primary purpose of coloured waxes to give an overall change in hue to the piece, ie to darken in the case of black bison, or is it more about causing this grain effect I experienced?


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## marcros (2 May 2014)

Random Orbital Bob":2kk4o5mq said:


> That reminds me, I turned an ash apple the other day and used that very same black bison wax. It's only the 2nd time I've used it so wasn't entirely sure what to expect. It basically filled the pores and thus intensified the grain pattern. The rest of the smoother surface it left a rather muddy colour. Is the primary purpose of coloured waxes to give an overall change in hue to the piece, ie to darken in the case of black bison, or is it more about causing this grain effect I experienced?



I use it to catch in the pores and intensify the grain pattern, whilst also leaving a nice soft sheen to the whole piece. The colours are to compliment the wood, so (at the extremes) the grain is not filled with white blobs or black blobs. I haven't had a muddyness, but i would say that there is hardly any coloured wax left on the smooth surfaces, and the top coat I normally put a coat of clear over.


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## RogerP (2 May 2014)

I use Chestnut Microcrystalline Wax for finishing most stuff. Seems about the best to me for my use.


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## [email protected] (3 May 2014)

some waxes do stand out with particular characteristics. Mylands antique mahogany or dark oak is effectively a staining wax that will effectively rid dust from mouldings, crevices and surface indents whereas many of the standard waxes stain but dry out clear - downside for me is it tends to be a bit smeary. Harrells wax for example is brilliant on nicely polished surfaces and dries near smear free. Microcrystaline doesnt impart any colour at all but is smear free. Black bison I hate - horrible hues and smell and a nondescript result. Fiddes eg georgian mahogany, english oak quite good. An outsider is lake one buffing wax which is super easy to apply ie its more of cream. Its all in the finish - different waxes for different finishes. The myland product is the most versatile in my experience and prob lake one is the easiest to use.


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## pebbles (3 May 2014)

I've used Briwax P7 medium brown for years on old renovated doors mainly, but also this oak windowboard recently. 







Two coats, a rub down with 0000 wire wool in between, leave to dry for half an hour or so, then buff with soft cloth. I've applied it either with a cloth, or when the weather was really hot one year and it was liquid in the tin - with a brush.

I've even done a work surface with it in the kitchen, though one that doesn't get hard wear - I always use chopping board etc. Is only when you leave water/wine whatever to soak on it that there may be a problem, otherwise damp marks just wipe off. Been in use for nearly three years and still fine. Wouldn't trust it with heat though.

Adore the smell - have to agree with someone's comment about Black Bison pong - just don't like it.

Beggar the Marmite or teabags... it's the one thing I ask for when folk drive back to uk, or I bring back with me when I go.


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## nicguthrie (5 May 2014)

Though I don't exactly have a great pool of knowledge and experience, one of my favourites that I've used many times is Fiddes Supreme Wax. I've only really used the clear or natural one, but it's excellent. Goes on as easily as spreading butter, and smells fascinating - like solvents for the first five minutes, then changes to honey and caramel as it dries.

Very easy to buff, very good filling and smoothing characteristics, I've even used it over the whole surface of a cheap-as-chips unfinished whitewood drawer set for the bottom of our wardrobe, just to stop the open grained splintery wood from catching on the clothes, and one coat worked a treat!

I've also used microcrystalline a lot, as a final finish. I've used the Rennaisance Wax version, on cast iron tables, turned pens, table tops, bowls and boxes, and it's a great final protective layer. Very little needed, gives a decent shine when gently buffed, and stops fingerprints (and rust, on cast iron). The fact that in its blurb, it's been developed for use on a rediculous number of things as a protective layer, sort of encouraged me to try it out on all sorts of stuff 

Nic.


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## marcros (5 May 2014)

I have ordered the fiddes to try. I couldnt get the mylands one in dark oak from anywhere that also stocked the liberon furniture brush.

I like the smell of the black bison wax. 

At least now I will have something to compare the bison wax too.


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## nicguthrie (6 May 2014)

Was it the supreme wax one? If so, I'd be interested in your opinion when you get to use it. I've not used a great many different paste waxes like that, and your comparison to others that you know would be interesting to me, as I'm very familiar with the Fiddes Supreme Wax.


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## marcros (6 May 2014)

That's the one. I will report back when it arrives. Hopefully before the weekend.


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## marcros (9 May 2014)

nicguthrie":22p9drx7 said:


> Was it the supreme wax one? If so, I'd be interested in your opinion when you get to use it. I've not used a great many different paste waxes like that, and your comparison to others that you know would be interesting to me, as I'm very familiar with the Fiddes Supreme Wax.




It was actually the fiddes mellow wax when it arrived. I checked the order confirmation, and that was what i had ordered, so i used it. it is said to be slightly harder and takes slightly longer to dry than the supreme wax. Looking at the product descriptions, for my application I dont think it will make much difference. In an ideal world I would have preferred the other.

The mellow wax seems ok. it is certainly not a paste wax like the black bison, but doesnt take any great effort to apply. a brush would be handy, I used a cloth. The wax doesnt smell of anything much, and it seems to be a bit grabby after buffing. I dont know how else to describe it- it isnt sticky but it isnt silky smooth either. i will leave it to dry for a bit longer and rebuff. the tin said a few minutes, i think it maybe needs 20 minutes or so. It may have been my perfect application :mrgreen: or the product but there is no streakyness. may also be my item where the surface is rustic rather than mirror flat, which would show it up better (/worse?)

The tin also mentions a second coat to improve the sheen. I will try this underneath to see which i prefer.

Would I buy it again? Probably, although I would probably try another one for comparison with this and the bison.


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## [email protected] (10 May 2014)

an issue with waxes generally these days is the removal of solvent due to green/ eco rules. I think possibly Fiddes were the forerunner in making non solvent based waxes? I'm unsure. But Briwax are still pumping out their Toluene based wax so I'm confused as to why other manufacaturers cant do the same...


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## kyle04 (11 May 2014)

[email protected]":8r26d9mi said:


> an issue with waxes generally these days is the removal of solvent due to green/ eco rules. I think possibly Fiddes were the forerunner in making non solvent based waxes? I'm unsure. But Briwax are still pumping out their Toluene based wax so I'm confused as to why other manufacaturers cant do the same...




....Briwax as a brand have tried to manufacture a toluene-free wax in the past, but the results were, er, disappointing to say the least. The T-free versions were always inferior to the toluene based wax - far too stodgy for most people used to working with the original formula.
The Liberon Bison waxes are turpentine based which is the ideal solvent for the various waxes used in the formulation (beeswax, carnauba and paraffin waxes generally). 
Most wax polishes will need a good 1/2 hour or more before they can be effectively buffed - the exception is the Briwax original which if left for too long will be quite difficult to buff out because the wax coat will be very hard after 20 minutes or so on average.
The best method of application is grade 0000 steel wool, which works the wax into the surface and absorbs excess wax at the same time. Tricky areas such as mouldings or carvings can be coated using a cut down bristle paint brush.
Buff first with a good quality buffing brush, then a soft rag.


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## nicguthrie (11 May 2014)

Thanks for the feedback Marcros. You would have found that the supreme version does indeed dry a bit faster. It's pretty soft, not quite a paste, not quite a block, so easy to pick up quite a dob of on your cloth. Goes on smelling of Turps, and by the time you've finished rubbing it in, it starts to change scent to a sort of honey scent. Once all the turps smell has gone, it's virtually dry, and in my limited experience, I'd say that's within about 2 minutes, you can give it a final buff at that point, then either leave it to fully cure (to lose a lot of the waxy softness or grabbiness as you put it (I like the term  )) overnight, or just start a second coat. 

One thing that might affect your finish a fair bit is using too thick a layer - as Kyle says, 0000 steel wool lifts excess as you apply. I've tried it and it works well but I don't notice a huge difference between it and the coarse cloth (is it stockingette?) that I bought a roll of when I started. I guess it's the same mechanism, plenty space in the material to store excess and a coarse surface to both spread it out and scrape it off.

I like the stuff, but as I said, I don't know much about other brands so I like hearing about how other ones stack up to it, as I don't want to be scared of trying others if I can get them!


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