# Small Plane, Interesting day



## Roberto Flintofski (17 Dec 2020)

Hi all, have had an interesting but frustrating day trying to re comission a small old plane I purchased of tinterwebby. 

Stripped it cleaned it as best I could and then set about trying to flatten the sole and sharpen the blade, 1st time ive had a go at this, not sure if it's the style / type but I havnt had much success! The blade edge is razor sharp and I've set it so there is only a very small gap in front of it with varying amounts of blade protruding, it works "ish" I only bought it to knock the corners off square timbers and in all honesty because I like tinkering with old things.

Where am I going wrong


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## Phil Pascoe (17 Dec 2020)

It's the wrong plane for the job.


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## Old.bodger (17 Dec 2020)

Interesting Roberto, I too have one very like that, mine is obviously very cheaply made from light alloy castings and an iron sole. Over the years I have fiddled with it at various times and have never managed to get it to cut well. It really doesn’t deserve it’s place on the shelf. Perhaps someone will come along and offer some constructive assistance!


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## Roberto Flintofski (17 Dec 2020)

Thanks for the input Phil, regardless of the job I need it for it would be nice to get it to work


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## Nigel Burden (17 Dec 2020)

Roberto Flintofski said:


> Thanks for the input Phil, regardless of the job I need it for it would be nice to get it to work


 
To be honest, the Stanley? 75 bull nose plane is an abomination. I had, still have one. I can't get the damned thing to work, try as I may. In the end I bought an old Record 076, a much better plane for the same money.

As Phil said, the wrong plane for what you want.

Rebate Plane No 2—The Bullnose Plane - Paul Sellers' Blog 

Nigel.


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## Roberto Flintofski (17 Dec 2020)

So not the best small plane to "hone" any learning skills with?


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## Roberto Flintofski (17 Dec 2020)

Also reading the Paul Sellers blog .. I've the blade in upside down !


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## Cheshirechappie (17 Dec 2020)

One thing that might help is to turn the blade the other way up - bevel facing up, not down.

It's a low-ish angle bed (not ultra-low, but low-ish), so an iron sharpened with the usual 25 degree grind and 30 degree hone may not have much of a clearance angle under the blade with it assembled bevel down. Thus, the blade bevel may be rubbing on the timber and stopping the cutting edge engaging. For the blade to cut effectively, you need about a 10 degree or so (or more) clearance between blade and workpiece on the underside behind the edge.

Edit to add - Ah- good - you've spotted it! You posted while I was typing. Must get a faster typing finger ....


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## paulrbarnard (17 Dec 2020)

I have one and it cuts quite well. depth of cut is tricky to get right. It is very easy to set it too deep and then the plane is unusable. With a fine cut mine takes nice shavings. It's not a plane I use very often, probably only two times in the last twenty years, but ironically I did use it today to fettle a rebate on a board, I used a 78 to cut the rebate. I would normally grab a shoulder plane but opened the wrong drawer and saw the 75 sat there all forlorn. It had is moment in the daylight and rewarded me with some nice shavings.


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## Nigel Burden (17 Dec 2020)

Roberto Flintofski said:


> Also reading the Paul Sellers blog .. I've the blade in upside down !



The 75 is a bevel down plane, not bevel up like most bullnose planes. I don't know whether Paul Sellers mentions the 75 though.

The blade should be square across with no camber and square on the corners. Try as I may, I could not get it to work any sense even after checking that the bed is flat and square, sharpening and honing the blade, and yes it was sharp.
I just gave up in exasperation.

Another source of information about Stanley planes is this one below.

The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Preface (supertool.com) 

Nigel.


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## Phil Pascoe (17 Dec 2020)

Roberto Flintofski said:


> Thanks for the input Phil, regardless of the job I need it for it would be nice to get it to work


Sorry, it was a little abrupt. It might well be perfectly adequate for the cross grain rebates etc. it was (not very well?) designed for, but a block plane or a No.3 is much better suited to knocking arrises off. Especially with the blade in the correct way around.


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## Jacob (17 Dec 2020)

It's a plane I'd expect to use about once a year if that, as it could come in for things like tidying up a rebate, just for finishing touches not for much actual work. Extreme opposite of block plane which gets used all the time - or did when I used to do a lot of site work. Bevel down - wrong way up it'd become a scraper. 30º hone doesn't need a grind bevel as it's tiny. The photo looks more like a 45º which wouldn't work at all. It's a one hander (obviously) hence the rounded heel and works better with the hand well back.


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## Cheshirechappie (17 Dec 2020)

If, as Nigel says, those planes are supposed to be bevel down, it might pay to check the bevel angles on the blade and ensure that they're less than the blade bedding angle. It may be an optical delusion, but the second and third photos seem to suggest that the back of the bevel is rubbing and the edge not engaging.

A regrind to 25 degrees and hone at 30 degrees might help.


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## Roberto Flintofski (17 Dec 2020)

Well going to give it a try bevel up in the morning ! The Back of the bevel as the blade is in now is deffo not below the cutting edge, if does cut but is poor!


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## Bm101 (17 Dec 2020)

It's a poorly regarded model for a reason. Whack it on ebay. Get some cash back. Break your arris with literally _any other bench plane_. Just use your finger to hold it at a consistent angle. Go for it.


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## Roberto Flintofski (17 Dec 2020)

In all fairness I think it was only a tenner!


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## Roberto Flintofski (18 Dec 2020)

So then, up at 5.40 it's been on my mind all night! Out to the garage took it to bits again, re sharpened the blade to be double sure, reassembled bevel up but really not sure it should be as then it leaves a massive throat in front of the blade? But..... it seems to work better!


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## Roberto Flintofski (18 Dec 2020)

So still not sure!


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## Jacob (18 Dec 2020)

*Bevel down* - and 30º. See previous post. It can't work the way you've got it except as a scraper. Also your angle looks a but steep - it needs to be 30º - the whole bevel, no need to grind a shallower bevel on a little blade like this.


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## pe2dave (18 Dec 2020)

Roberto Flintofski said:


> Hi all, have had an interesting but frustrating day trying to re comission a small old plane I purchased of tinterwebby.
> 
> Stripped it cleaned it as best I could and then set about trying to flatten the sole and sharpen the blade, 1st time ive had a go at this, not sure if it's the style / type but I havnt had much success! The blade edge is razor sharp and I've set it so there is only a very small gap in front of it with varying amounts of blade protruding, it works "ish" I only bought it to knock the corners off square timbers and in all honesty because I like tinkering with old things.
> 
> Where am I going wrong


Oddly, Paul Sellers had a video about setting one of these up yesterday. One of those 'sign up' jobs, sorry. Worth it imho.


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## Jacob (18 Dec 2020)

pe2dave said:


> Oddly, Paul Sellers had a video about setting one of these up yesterday. One of those 'sign up' jobs, sorry. Worth it imho.


In case of confusion: different plane with a much lower bed angle, which makes it bevel up. Nice little plane looks a lot better than the dreaded 75. Pricier too


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## billw (18 Dec 2020)

So what's the verdict on this plane? Get a 90 if you need a bullnose, or a 92/93 shoulder plane because you'll be able to use that most of the time anyway?


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## IWW (18 Dec 2020)

Hmmm, it doesn't look like a low-angle bed to me. I've just spent 15 minutes trying to find out what the bed angle of a 75 is, but all sources I consulted remain stolidly silent on that point. Could someone with a 75 & a protractor of some kind measure the bed angle? It would be a very handy parameter on which to base any rational advice on which way the blade should be.

Roberto, looking at your first lot of pics, it seems to me you have a pretty steep bevel on that blade, so clearance may have been the issue when you had it bevel-down. A good rule of thumb is to have at least 10 degrees of clearance. If the bed is 45 degrees and your sharpening bevel ends up at 30, you have 15* of clearance, which is adequate, but if the bed is x* lower than 45, the clearance angle will be less by that amount.

In your pic with he blade bevel up, it just doesn't look right - if your bed is 45 and your sharpening angle is ~30 you now have a cutting angle of 70*. That is not very practical on a larger plane, the cutting resistance would be excessive. On a little thing like the 75, just knocking corners off, cutting resistance won't be such an issue.

Lastly, bull-nosed planes are always tricky things to use. They are very sensitive to pressure over the nose, you can alter depth of cut quite markedly by pressing on the front of the plane. They are also very awkward to start cleanly from an edge, you just don't have enough surface area on the toe to register it & begin the cut properly. I would suggest any small plane with a toe 1/4-1/3rd of the overall sole length would be much better for your stated purpose than the 75 or any other bull-nosed plane - the Stanley 100 or any of it's multitude of clones make very handy one-handers, ideal for knocking sharp corners off....
Cheers,
Ian


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## Nigel Burden (18 Dec 2020)

IWW said:


> Hmmm, it doesn't look like a low-angle bed to me. I've just spent 15 minutes trying to find out what the bed angle of a 75 is, but all sources I consulted remain stolidly silent on that point. Could someone with a 75 & a protractor of some kind measure the bed angle? It would be a very handy parameter on which to base any rational advice on which way the blade should be.
> 
> Roberto, looking at your first lot of pics, it seems to me you have a pretty steep bevel on that blade, so clearance may have been the issue when you had it bevel-down. A good rule of thumb is to have at least 10 degrees of clearance. If the bed is 45 degrees and your sharpening bevel ends up at 30, you have 15* of clearance, which is adequate, but if the bed is x* lower than 45, the clearance angle will be less by that amount.
> 
> ...



If I remember correctly, the bed angle on the 75 is about 45/47 degrees. Even with a 25 degree angle on the blade, the thing wouldn't perform any sense. My BU Record 076 is much better, but as you say, they are not easy to set up and use.

Nigel.


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## paulrbarnard (18 Dec 2020)

pe2dave said:


> Oddly, Paul Sellers had a video about setting one of these up yesterday. One of those 'sign up' jobs, sorry. Worth it imho.


I’ve noticed a couple of occasions recently when Paul posts a video a day or two after a discussion on the subject here. Coincidence?


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## Jacob (18 Dec 2020)

Bed angle - 75 is 40º. Mine is anyway. Sellers looks half that or less which would give a cutting angle of 50º with a 30º honed blade


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## Jacob (18 Dec 2020)

paulrbarnard said:


> I’ve noticed a couple of occasions recently when Paul posts a video a day or two after a discussion on the subject here. Coincidence?


Good idea! He might as well answer questions other people are asking. Rebate Plane No 2—The Bullnose Plane


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## paulrbarnard (18 Dec 2020)

Nigel Burden said:


> If I remember correctly, the bed angle on the 75 is about 45/47 degrees. Even with a 25 degree angle on the blade, the thing wouldn't perform any sense. My BU Record 076 is much better, but as you say, they are not easy to set up and use.
> 
> Nigel.


Just measured mine the bed is 40 degrees. I do have a very shallow primary bevel of 25 degrees on the blade with a secondary bevel a few more degrees up. It is bevel down.


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## TRITON (18 Dec 2020)

Got a 90j here and when doing fittings its handy, but then anything is handy. Elongating a rebate, knocking off edges, in fact anything. 
OK, not its exact job, but many fitting and inbuilt cabinets, its a case of whatever works, or whatever can get in to tight spaces and its width I've found is very good for that.
A chisel plane would also be handy,but it can be too wide, or a shoulder, but again each are 'specialist' but if it works for you, then add it to the arsenal.

One job i found it useful for was taking the years of paint off architrave edges,both by running it flat on the wall for the outside edge, and for the slight return on the door thingymabobbities.


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## Nigel Burden (18 Dec 2020)

paulrbarnard said:


> Just measured mine the bed is 40 degrees. I do have a very shallow primary bevel of 25 degrees on the blade with a secondary bevel a few more degrees up. It is bevel down.
> View attachment 98617



Yours looks like an American model, and older than my English one. I don't think that the blade on mine, although original, was much good. I could certainly not get shavings like that.

Nigel.


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## paulrbarnard (18 Dec 2020)

Nigel Burden said:


> Yours looks like an American model, and older than my English one. I don't think that the blade on mine, although original, was much good. I could certainly not get shavings like that.
> 
> Nigel.



I'm pretty sure this one was in a tool box belonging to my grandfather. A lot of my tools are from my grandfather, great grandfather and great great grandfather. They were all carpenter/cabinetmakers in the UK. It's possible it is an American model but I would have though more likely English. I did spend six years in Canada so it might have come into my possession there, though it isn't a plane I would have bought through choice 

That shaving was a soft bit of pine so easy to work. Here is one from oak




And end grain ;-)


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## Nigel Burden (18 Dec 2020)

Paul, your blade has Stanley New Britain Conn. U S A stamped at the top, and looks much thicker than mine. There is no way that mine would ever take shavings like that. Perhaps the newer English versions were very cheaply made using inferior materials.

Nigel.


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## Jacob (18 Dec 2020)

Nigel Burden said:


> ..... Perhaps the newer English versions were very cheaply made using inferior materials.
> 
> Nigel.


You could be right and is often repeated but I strongly feel that this is workmen blaming the tools!
By the time people have worked their way through sharpening alternatives, polished everything, practiced using the tool, swapped a blade or two, they will have simply got better at it and would have done just as well with the original blade.
I don't think I've ever had defective blade, except where they've been nibbled and over-heated on a bench grinder. Even that is remediable if you just grind off a bit more, but carefully.


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## Nigel Burden (18 Dec 2020)

Jacob said:


> You could be right and is often repeated but I strongly feel that this is workmen blaming the tools!
> By the time people have worked their way through sharpening alternatives, polished everything, practiced using the tool, swapped a blade or two, they will have simply got better at it and would have done just as well with the original blade.
> I don't think I've ever had defective blade, except where they've been nibbled and over-heated on a bench grinder. Even that is remediable if you just grind off a bit more, but carefully.



Jacob, I am blaming the tool in this instance.
I've had no problems with any of my planes other than this one and a small coffin smoother with an unmarked blade which, once replaced worked well. The blade on my 75 is thin. It will sharpen up ok but tends to chatter if the cut is set only the tiniest bit thick, it just seems hopeless. The cap iron? doesn't extend far enough down the blade to lock the lower end of the blade down properly, which doesn't help the chatter. Paul Barnard's is much more substantial. My Record 076, which is definitely older is more substantial, and a much better plane. 

Nigel.


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## Jacob (18 Dec 2020)

Nigel Burden said:


> Jacob, I am blaming the tool in this instance.
> I've had no problems with any of my planes other than this one and a small coffin smoother with an unmarked blade which, once replaced worked well. The blade on my 75 is thin. It will sharpen up ok but tends to chatter if the cut is set only the tiniest bit thick, it just seems hopeless. The cap iron? doesn't extend far enough down the blade to lock the lower end of the blade down properly, which doesn't help the chatter. Paul Barnard's is much more substantial. My Record 076, which is definitely older is more substantial, and a much better plane.
> 
> Nigel.


Well as I said you could be right. Later Stanleys definitely deteriorated. 
Presumably Record just stopped without letting things slide first. Record 076 is a much better plane, more expensive and very different from the 75. 
Lot of 75s about, I guess because they were the cheapest plane on the market and novice buyers wouldn't know it was a peculiar and specialised plane with limited use. Thats why I bought one myself and it was years before I found a use for it!


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## D_W (18 Dec 2020)

That may be a thinner iron. I bought one of those at one point here (someone later gave me a bullnose slater plane, so that was the end of the 75) and it was a little later and had a very thin iron. 

They have a reputation here as being a plane that's hard to get right, but I don't think it's so much a quality issue with the plane, it's just the design using a cast detachable nose that creates a very short front sole.


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## paulrbarnard (18 Dec 2020)

Nigel Burden said:


> Paul, your blade has Stanley New Britain Conn. U S A stamped at the top, and looks much thicker than mine. There is no way that mine would ever take shavings like that. Perhaps the newer English versions were very cheaply made using inferior materials.
> 
> Nigel.


Very good point. I didn't read that  I must have stolen it in Canada.

I just put the callipers on the blade and it is 1/16" thick


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## Democritus (18 Dec 2020)

I’ve had one of these Stanley planes for about 25 years, but have used it only on the odd occasion. The blade should be bevel down, and when it’s set right it can produce fine shavings. The major problem with it lies in setting the throat. This is a nightmare because the screw governing the throat opening and closing is virtually impossible to access and thus tighten by reason of the blade neck extending over the screw head. Get the throat wrong, and the plane is unusable. I cut the blade neck shorter to allow a driver to be used, and that helped a bit, but it was still hit and miss. 
I much prefer my Record 311.


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## Roberto Flintofski (18 Dec 2020)

Could the screw be replaced with a bolt with washer underneath then it could be done with a small spanner?


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## Nigel Burden (18 Dec 2020)

And someone is selling a 90J on ebay for £255.

RARE, STANLEY USA 90J BULLNOSE PLANE - MADE IN USA | eBay 

Nigel.


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## Jacob (18 Dec 2020)

Just had a close look at my 75 probably for the first time since I bought it many years ago!
One surprise was that the throat isn't intended to be adjusted. To work at all well the blade has to sit firmly on the body; at the mouth, along the sides and on the flat part of the top i.e. all in a dead straight line/plane. This only possible with the top part sited precisely in one position - _and _ screwed down tight _before_ you put in the blade and tighten the screw cap. 
Cut a little rebate OK. Will have a fiddle tomorrow.


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## Nigel Burden (18 Dec 2020)

Roberto Flintofski said:


> Could the screw be replaced with a bolt with washer underneath then it could be done with a small spanner?



Probably, if you can get one with the correct thread. If I am correct, Stanley didn't use a standard thread, esp. on the earlier planes.

Nigel.


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## Jacob (18 Dec 2020)

Nigel Burden said:


> And someone is selling a 90J on ebay for £255.
> 
> RARE, STANLEY USA 90J BULLNOSE PLANE - MADE IN USA | eBay
> 
> Nigel.


Seems to be a lot of that going on - people putting stuff at daft prices just on the off chance that somebody will get carried away, or drunk, and buy it. A big collection of very ordinary used S%J saws was being offered at £120 each and similar prices. Should be £10 to £20 each
Caveat Emptor - and don't buy when you are pineappled!


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## Nigel Burden (18 Dec 2020)

There was a S&J saw a couple of months ago for £55. A new S&J retails at around £25.

Nigel.


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## Roberto Flintofski (18 Dec 2020)

Omg ! Is that what happens? Have a few beers, pizza ,more beer... go on ebay and buy rubbish at inflated prices? 
That's why my garage is full then !


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## Cheshirechappie (18 Dec 2020)

Couple of years ago, Paul Sellers said he particularly liked Groves saws; they promptly started going for silly money. (Groves saws are very good, but they're not five times better than everybody else's.) Then every chancer on 'a certain internet auction site' started thinking ALL old saws were worth Paul Sellers inflated Groves prices. Given time, it'll all settle down again, mainly because few sales will occur at those silly prices, and the chancers will have to drop their prices to something more realistic.

Same with everything else, I suppose. Unless people know something I don't - which is entirely possible!


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## billw (18 Dec 2020)

Cheshirechappie said:


> Couple of years ago, Paul Sellers said he particularly liked Groves saws




Probably just after he bought a load of Groves saws on Ebay for a few quid


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## Roberto Flintofski (18 Dec 2020)

So then, back to the small Plane .... I need to re profile the bevel and have it bevel down as thats the way it is intended to be ? and close the gap between the blade and the front of the opening ?


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## Roberto Flintofski (18 Dec 2020)

I need to flip the blade over


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## Jacob (18 Dec 2020)

Roberto Flintofski said:


> I need to flip the blade over
> View attachment 98655


Yes blade hone at 30º and other way up. Yours looks a bit steeper than 30º but I could be wrong. Just one bevel no need to fiddle with a grinding bevel on a very small thin blade. 
Also essential - set the top piece back so that the gap you see in the photo, between the plane blade and the body underneath, is closed tight. This will also close the mouth - it's too far forward. See previous post for explanation n.b. the mouth is not for adjusting even though it looks like it. It's just made that way for low cost construction.


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## Roberto Flintofski (18 Dec 2020)

Photoshopped .. but like this but blade honed to 30'


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## Benchwayze (19 Dec 2020)

Jacob has it. 
John


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## Benchwayze (19 Dec 2020)

Never had a bullnose proper. I just break my Record shoulder plane down and it does the same job. Only real problem is there ain't nothing in front of the cutting edge so care is required; or use a chisel. 

John


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## Phill05 (19 Dec 2020)

I picked up a 077A in the early 1960's and it has been my go to little friend all my working life, for those hard to get too places I could take the front plate off and had a chisel plane.


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## pe2dave (19 Dec 2020)

Jacob said:


> *Bevel down* - and 30º. See previous post. It can't work the way you've got it except as a scraper. Also your angle looks a but steep - it needs to be 30º - the whole bevel, no need to grind a shallower bevel on a little blade like this.


Oddly Paul Sellers has it bevel up and it seems to cut readily.


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## Roberto Flintofski (19 Dec 2020)

pe2dave said:


> Oddly Paul Sellers has it bevel up and it seems to cut readily.




do you have the lnk to where you have seen this please ?


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## pe2dave (19 Dec 2020)

Roberto Flintofski said:


> do you have the lnk to where you have seen this please ?











How To Set Up And Use A Bullnose Plane - Woodworking Masterclasses


This little-used terrier of a plane has many different uses, not the least of which is the final fitting of awkward to reach places.




woodworkingmasterclasses.com


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## Phil Pascoe (19 Dec 2020)

The name on the blade will show which up it's supposed to be - the name wouldn't be meant to be on the underside.


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## Roberto Flintofski (19 Dec 2020)

Different plane but I guess same principle ? Im obv new to all this so everyone's help is greatly appreciated, right let me go look to see if there is a name on the plane blade !


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## Jacob (19 Dec 2020)

Roberto Flintofski said:


> Different plane but I guess same principle ? Im obv new to all this so everyone's help is greatly appreciated, right let me go look to see if there is a name on the plane blade !


Different plane and different principle - Sellers' is a low angle. Guessing 18º? Add 30 bevel *up* and you have 48º cutting angle.
75 is 40º. Bevel *down* this gives 40º cutting angle. Actually a lower cutting angle, for what it's worth!


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## pe2dave (19 Dec 2020)

Phil Pascoe said:


> The name on the blade will show which up it's supposed to be - the name wouldn't be meant to be on the underside.


Rather more importantly, the adjustment is via a gear / teeth arrangement. To be adjustable it needs to be engaged with the adjuster? But yes, the Stanley name is uppermost.


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## Roberto Flintofski (19 Dec 2020)

Stanley Rule & Level Co on the top of the blade so deffo bevel down which mine is at prob 45' so need to get myself back in garage later!


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## Jacob (19 Dec 2020)

pe2dave said:


> Rather more importantly, the adjustment is via a gear / teeth arrangement. To be adjustable it needs to be engaged with the adjuster? But yes, the Stanley name is uppermost.


On the 75 the Stanley name is on the other side i.e. goes other way up; bevel down.
Also is 2mm, thick if anybody is interested!
I just spent 10 minutes setting mine up, more carefully than at any time in it's long pathetic life so far!
Works OK. Can do a full width fine shaving but that's more than required in normal use (i.e. rebates, arrises, etc).
Flatten bottom - just a light touch to reveal any defects. Slightly hollow most likely but doesn't need over working, best left alone.
Main thing is to get the top half aligned so that the blade sits tight up against all the bearing surfaces top and bottom. Just visual check - it's a bit bendy so very small error OK. Do it without the screw cap in place and then tighten the body screw firmly.
Sharpen blade 30º bevel/hone (has to be straight edge and square - there is no lateral adjustment).
Slop blade and screw cap in, set back, with cap screw firm.
Tap it with small hammer to advance it until just cutting, tighten screw.
I was surprised to find that this left a very precise but tight mouth opening at about 0.5mm. I had thought it would need filing or something.


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## Deadeye (19 Dec 2020)

Roberto Flintofski said:


> Hi all, have had an interesting but frustrating day trying to re comission a small old plane I purchased of tinterwebby.
> 
> Stripped it cleaned it as best I could and then set about trying to flatten the sole and sharpen the blade, 1st time ive had a go at this, not sure if it's the style / type but I havnt had much success! The blade edge is razor sharp and I've set it so there is only a very small gap in front of it with varying amounts of blade protruding, it works "ish" I only bought it to knock the corners off square timbers and in all honesty because I like tinkering with old things.
> 
> Where am I going wrong



I thought they were supposed to have the blade bevel up?


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## Nigel Burden (19 Dec 2020)

Deadeye said:


> I thought they were supposed to have the blade bevel up?



The 75 is the odd one out. Most metal bullnose planes have a low bed angle around 20 degrees. The 75 has a bed angle of 40 degrees. Put the blade in bevel up and you have presentation angle of 65-70 degrees if the blade is honed at 25- 30 degrees which would be very difficult to push.

Nigel.


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## Deadeye (19 Dec 2020)

Nigel Burden said:


> The 75 is the odd one out. Most metal bullnose planes have a low bed angle around 20 degrees. The 75 has a bed angle of 40 degrees. Put the blade in bevel up and you have presentation angle of 65-70 degrees if the blade is honed at 25- 30 degrees which would be very difficult to push.
> 
> Nigel.


Ah. ok. Planes - probably the most confusing thing in woodworking


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## pe2dave (20 Dec 2020)

Mine is the 90 , again bevel up. Needs to be very sharp.


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## Roberto Flintofski (20 Dec 2020)

Right then, re ground 30' reassembled bevel down, and in all fairness it works a treat, however as there is no real means of adjusting the depth of cut so it's all a bit hit and miss! But it does work so bonus


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## cowtown_eric (30 Jan 2021)

These planes are a pipper to adjust (the blade is always wider than the body) But my gunmetal bullnose planes have almost uniformly suffered from a plane crash where they hit the floor nose on and deformed the body. A 75ish could suffer the same fate which would definitely give it problems. Put a straight-edge along the base and see if the nose is lower than the rest of the body. Rather thn try to straighten it and risk breakage of the brittle cast-iron, , just lap it flat

That's all I can say.

Eric


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