# Advice needed for table saw Clarke CTS10D



## zodiac (25 Feb 2014)

Hi,

I recently bought my first table saw, a second hand Clarke CTS10D and I'm well chuffed to finally have one, but it has two issues... someone may have experience of either or both or have a suggestion ?

1) The nice wide table top has by the looks of it been bashed a bit in transit so the top slopes downward a bit on each side. I was thinking of removing it and trying to bash it flat with a rubber mallet but maybe that isn't going to work?

2) The rip fence is a joke, even fully tightened it flexes along its length so ripping a straight line is impossible on anything other than rather small stuff. Can you get a better fence for it or can anyone suggest why the fence gives, maybe there is a way to sort it out so that it holds fast?

Hope my explanations make sense lol
Cheers


----------



## MMUK (25 Feb 2014)

1. I'd be tempted to fit a piece of 1/4" ply to the table top with some soft foam underneath to take out the imperfections.

2. Make a new fence from a piece of 3/4" ply.

Alternatively, save up a few pennies, stick the Clarke on eBay and get a decent second hand Startrite, Charnwood or Bosch.


----------



## oakhouse (25 Feb 2014)

Hi
Tend to agree since I had exactly the same issues
I turned mine into a. Recessed workbench saw by mounting the table top into a 30 mm ply bench top and then used the workbench to mount inset track from Axminster to use as a fence guide

I use it for really roughshod awing for garden fence etc and treated myself to Axminster aw12 bench

Land rover now Mercedes !


----------



## Stu_2 (26 Feb 2014)

Evening Zodiac

I’m assuming that having just bought this saw, you’re not up for rushing out and dropping a grand on a new posh one. I reckon you can have this doing sensible cuts for a few quid.

I’d have a go at getting those support tables back into square again. Probably best not to hammer away at them, though. How bad are they? Are the support brackets bent/twisted? You might be able to get away with some shims/spacers (washers) between the bracket and table?

As the for the fence, I’d knock up a simple support, similar principle as the fence face on the cutting side. You can use a couple of small clamps to attach it to the fence. Assuming the fence is fairly sturdy at the front where the clamp is, this addition will help you get more accurate (square) cuts. When you set the fence, you can quickly check for square with a combination square. I’ve mocked something up to demonstrate (see pics below).

Finally, a decent blade should help. Something like a decent Freud from FFX should come in at around £35.

Have fun.


----------



## zodiac (2 Mar 2014)

I can't fit ply on top as ive made a cross cut sled so I need the two channels. 

The supports arent badly bent, in fact they dont look bent at a glance hence I didn't notice when buying it. The parts of the the top that extend past the body of the saw are bent slightly down if that makes any sense. 

Thanks for the pics, am I right in saying the wood is on the right hand side to prevent flexing of the metal fence?


----------



## zodiac (2 Mar 2014)

Also, MMUK there are no more pennies for a while, still not a popular man for buying this one so I'm not making things any worse by looking at a better one! Lol


----------



## Stu_2 (2 Mar 2014)

zodiac":3emx0dfx said:


> Thanks for the pics, am I right in saying the wood is on the right hand side to prevent flexing of the metal fence?



Yes. A simple 'L' shaped support to keep the fence true.


----------



## zodiac (3 Mar 2014)

Stu_2":7u9al968 said:


> zodiac":7u9al968 said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the pics, am I right in saying the wood is on the right hand side to prevent flexing of the metal fence?
> ...



Ok that definitely looks worth trying. Might drill into the metal fence as a clamp restricts the max height of what you can run through by the looks of it. Or I'm missing something, wouldn't be the first time lol


----------



## Stu_2 (3 Mar 2014)

I haven't seem the fence on one of those, but it should be fine. Is it hollow and can you access that hollow area? If so, you might be able to bond a nut in place. If not, and If the fence material is thick enough, you could tap it and use an M4 or M5 bolt. Failing that, you could resort to a self-tapper. 

Let us know how you get on.


----------



## rdesign (3 Mar 2014)

put timber on both side like a piece with laminate or melamine on it waxed for the fence and a back support just counter sink the bolt head hey presto fence fixed. if its not perfectly straight u can ship the auxiliary fence off the metal . 

steve maskery put up a post showing a wood made dense using a toggle clamp 5 bucks, makes a basic but reliable fence


----------



## Stu_2 (3 Mar 2014)

The OP has a fairly limited distance between fence and blade, so every mm counts


----------



## rdesign (5 Mar 2014)

Stu_2":7zlpl3p7 said:


> The OP has a fairly limited distance between fence and blade, so every mm counts



thats why a steel bar or even a wooded 4 x 2 rail extends the fence travel on a home made one will be much better than the standard pice of junk.....


----------



## zodiac (8 Mar 2014)

Haven't found time to play with this since, cheers for all replies so far


----------



## ld91 (5 Jun 2014)

I have had my cts10d for over a year which i brought second hand and i am very happy with it however i agree with you that thw fence isn't totally accurate but i have made an outfeed and right hand extension table for it with a fence that was inspired by norm abram and it works a treat!! The fence rail can be removed and could be replaced with a multi angled piece of iron to fit a biesemeyer style fence like they have in the USA i ahve thought about doing this the mine! check out some of the videos on the internet and it may solve most of your issues! I am fairly new to woodworking but i hope this will help you to achieve the product you want at a fairly reasonalble price.


----------



## zodiac (1 Oct 2014)

Apologies for bumping this old thread of mine but it came up in a search I did today for cts10d replacement blade, I'd forgotten about the thread actually! 

So, I was using the saw today trying to take some 15mm pine down to 12mm thick and the blade started to struggle and jam so I took my first really close look at the teeth and the blade is shot. 

I found some blades that are 254 mm and nearly bought one but that was 30mm bore and my saw needs 16 (this is the mounting hole size I assume) so as someone recommended a blade in a post here I was wondering if anyone who knows what they are doing could point me to a decent blade but maybe a bit less than the 35 quid recommended above as I can't stretch to that please?

I also don't have money to waste on a blade that isn't right for the saw, and I nearly did that already! I'm ripping and cross cutting pine etc and occasionally will cut hardwood and plywood but never chipboard or mdf if that helps. 

Cheers


----------



## williams1185 (2 Oct 2014)

most blades are 30mm bore you just need a reducing bushing most blades are supplied with them check with the seller


----------



## wizard (2 Oct 2014)

Avoid cheep blades Bosch Optiline Circular Saw Blade from eBay can be a good buy 254 or 255 will do


----------



## zodiac (2 Oct 2014)

The bosch optiline on ebay are 25 to 31 pounds on a quick search, still a bit of a stretch for me unfortunately 

I saw a Clarke blade that should suit, interestingly it's 3 quid cheaper in machine mart than on ebay at 15.59 Inc vat but are they any good ? I'm suspicious of cheap blades however as much as I'd live to buy the best of everything that's not happening anytime soon. I'm a newbie hobby wood tinkerer and sawdust maker, so no plans to make fine furniture but getting a nice cut would make a really nice change!


----------



## wizard (2 Oct 2014)

The Clarke blade is rubbish and will not last and will not cut well, the bosch will last, cut surperb and can be re sharpened


----------



## zodiac (2 Oct 2014)

I had a feeling the clarke blade wouldn't be much good, still looking for a bargain though. Must be some out there!


----------



## n0legs (2 Oct 2014)

I have a few Screwfix Titan blades for general duties, bought them cheap in their monthly clearance sales.
Anyhow, they're okay. Good tct teeth and come with the reduction rings.
Cat number 74506, £15.98.


----------



## wizard (2 Oct 2014)

zodiac":91c4qchg said:


> I had a feeling the clarke blade wouldn't be much good, still looking for a bargain though. Must be some out there!


£25.00 to £31.00 is a bargain £16.00 is throwing money away, you do not get it do you (hammer)


----------



## zodiac (2 Oct 2014)

wizard":3bpbzfpw said:


> zodiac":3bpbzfpw said:
> 
> 
> > I had a feeling the clarke blade wouldn't be much good, still looking for a bargain though. Must be some out there!
> ...



Oh I do get it, despite apparently having given off the impression that I don't! 

Doesn't harm to throw it out there on case says have a look at these they aren't expensive but they are quite good and NOT a waste of money. As an example I just saw a draper expert blade for 18 quid and ive always had really good draper expert products so ... I would expect them to be a good choice. I'm probably wrong hence asking people who know stuff that I don't!


----------



## wizard (2 Oct 2014)

http://www.tooled-up.com/product/bo...-saw-blade-254mm-x-24-teeth-30mm-bore/130285/


----------



## zodiac (3 Oct 2014)

wizard":3jnzpdm3 said:


> http://www.tooled-up.com/product/bo...-saw-blade-254mm-x-24-teeth-30mm-bore/130285/



ok now im going to hit you with .... 24 teeth ... for a compromise blade for both ripping and cross cuts a 60 tooth or such like is recommended ? Not being ungrateful !!


----------

