# Painting MDF



## Karl (8 Jun 2010)

Aside from Chain bought primer/gloss/satin paint, what other finishes are available for painting MRMDF.

I have 6 sheets of the stuff which have been cut up to make some storage units to go inside a built in wardrobe. Using B&Q's finest fast drying primer/undercoat and Crown fast drying Satin gives good results, but takes forever. 

Is there quicker drying stuff out there which can be applied by brush/roller? I don't have spraying facilities.

Cheers

Karl


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## lemonjeff (8 Jun 2010)

Karl,
Were the paints you used water based or oil?
Was speaking to a guy in the trade recently who had seen good results from 2pk(acid cat) using foam brushes.


Jeff.


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## Woodfinish Man (10 Jun 2010)

Karl is right something like this this (AC2 White Lacquer) will give you excellent protection and can be brush applied so long as you mix in 20% AC Brushing Thinners. It can be recoated after an hour!

Warning: The only downside is the smell (however this will not be the case in 3-4 weeks when it will be available in a low odour version.)

Ian


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## Oryxdesign (10 Jun 2010)

Low odour? That sound great.


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## oddsocks (10 Jun 2010)

^^ thanks for the link, I've never used AC2 products as have no spray booth - how effective is brushing compared to using normal water based quick dryers?

Dave


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## Triggaaar (26 Jun 2010)

I've been reading through a few threads on painting mdf, and I'm wanting to seal it with thinned PVA. Does it matter whether or not the PVA is waterproof, since I've got a fair amount of ordinairy stuff already.

Thanks


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## Shane (26 Jun 2010)

I thought all PVA was waterproof when it is dry?


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## Triggaaar (26 Jun 2010)

Unfortunately not. Normal pva returns to liquid when wet I think. But when it's been soaked up by the MDF and you coat with an oil based paint, it might be ok, I don't know.


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## Shane (27 Jun 2010)

Have you tried it? I'd be very surprised if that is the case, I would imagine even wickes pva would be waterproof when dry


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## lemonjeff (28 Jun 2010)

Woodfinish Man":3j3k118v said:


> Warning: The only downside is the smell (however this will not be the case in 3-4 weeks when it will be available in a low odour version.)
> 
> Ian



Ian,
I'm in the process of making a spray booth, would I be able to use the low odour version without active carbon filtration?

Jeff.


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## Triggaaar (29 Jun 2010)

Shane":1f926jji said:


> Have you tried it? I'd be very surprised if that is the case, I would imagine even wickes pva would be waterproof when dry


No I haven't, I've just read it many times. If it's waterproof, why is both std and waterproof versions available, at different prices?

Re painting the MDF:
I'm reading that it's best to seal all cut edges, even those you don't see, and prime all surfaces. I assume you then only need to undercoat the surfaces you'll see?


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## Benchwayze (29 Jun 2010)

I use mdf as panels for oil-painting 
I prime them with two coats of acrylic primer and nothing to seal the MDF. (In my case it's applied any-old how, to get a textured surface.) I mix whiting with it, to soak up the excess oil from the paint, allowing pictures to be finished in one sitting. So far none of my pictures have peeled off and the MDF remains stable. 

The acrylic primer used for art purposes looks, smells and behaves just the same as the 'thixotropic' emulsion you buy for decorating. So I don't see any reason to 'seal' the MDF. 

I want a 'Shaker-style' dark green finish, (close to milk paint), for the benches and cupboards in my shop. So unless anyone knows of a better way, I think I will just use matt emulsion, tinted with artists' acrylic paint. 
Any suggestions folks? 

TIA

John


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## big soft moose (29 Jun 2010)

Karl":3t29ccvi said:


> Is there quicker drying stuff out there which can be applied by brush/roller? I don't have spraying facilities.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Karl



you could buy an earlex HVLP spray system from argos for arround 40 quid - and a cheap gazebo for about a tenner - et voila spraying facilities


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## paul_david_thomas (25 Jan 2011)

PVA is not stable when water is applied - even if it has dried out.

This is why tilers (good tilers) do NOT prime walls with PVA before tiling them. Esp. in areas where they will get wet/moisture - i.e. Bathrooms.

The use acrylic primer as this will not turn back to liquid state when it get wet.

Tile grout is NOT water proof... It's resistant. Water WILL get through... Thus use acrylic primer.

If you want to proof your wood... Use acrylic primer. It dry's clear.

Ah....


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