# Walnut Sanding and Finishing



## the_g_ster (30 Oct 2006)

I have two questions that as a newbie I am a bit stumped on so far. 

I have been using some walnut and got to point of finishing it. Having planed it all down I have taken a ROS to it in progressive grits down to 400. It's great except for there are very very small scratches even on 400 grit from the ROS. I am using a metabo 450 duo and applying light pressure, the pads are far from clogged as the dust extraction is excellent on the sander. 

What is the best method of finishing this kind of wood to prepare for whatever coating without this little orbital marks.

Secondly I need to apply a water resistant coating to it. I have tried chestnut acrylic so far and looks okay, but I'd like a really good finish and without spraying I wondered what the best way to do this was. So far I have a pretty good finish, but like to get it as good as possible.


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## woodbloke (30 Oct 2006)

I have the same sander with an Axminster extractor that I can fit directly to the machine with their stepped adaptor and I don't have any problem sanding to a clear finish. I assume that you are using the Metabo sanding discs with the holes in the correct place? Rob


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## garywayne (30 Oct 2006)

Hi the_g_ster.

I was always taught to finish by hand, going with the grain. 

After using a ROS, and you look carefully, you will see little circular scratches.

I hope this is of some help.


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## Terry Smart (30 Oct 2006)

Hi all

Can I just ask a couple of questions before trying to answer any?

How water resistant do you want your finish to be? Can you tell us what it is you are making and roughly what size it is?
What do you call a 'good finish'? Do you mean bright and glossy, something more subtle than that etc?
You've applied our Acrylic Sealer, is this as a sample or on the item you're making?

Thanks


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## Lord Nibbo (30 Oct 2006)

the_g_ster":1oqkxzeg said:


> What is the best method of finishing this kind of wood to prepare for whatever coating without this little orbital marks.



Use a scraper and finnish with very fine wire wool rubbing in pure wax or teak oil, try it on an off cut, it leaves such a lovely finnish I'm sure you won't want to spoil it like Norm does plastering it with poly.


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## Scrit (30 Oct 2006)

Hi the_g_ster

I agree with garrywayne - ROSs can leave little circular or star/flower shaped swirl marks in timbers. Depending on species I'd normally stop machine sanding and go to hand sanding with the grain somewhere between 180 grit (maple) and 240 grit (mahogany). 

Have you possibly considered an oiled finish for walnut? I feel that a low-gloss lusterous finish such as oil can work well with walnut.

Scrit


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## the_g_ster (31 Oct 2006)

Thanks for the replies so far.

I am making a top and shelfs to go in a bathroom. Its well ventilated and they won't get wet, but if somebody puts a wet shampoo bottle on there then I need a finish that would allow you to just wipe it down. I have hidden storage for everything so really the shelves are just for show to have bits and bobs on.

I am using the metabo discs and I have to say I am pretty impressed, after using the discs look completely clean, alomost like they havent even been used, the holes also line up too so the dust is sucked away. 

I am only just starting out, and as I said want to learn the best way to get a really nice finish. The acrylic has left very very small brush marks that I hope will go with another few coats and a bit of careful sanding between. I didnt think of oil, what sort should I use and would it mind the odd wet bottle been sat on it? I will be making some bedside cabinets soon in walnut (well, part draw inards will be some lighter and cheaper) and want to get them really perfect.


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## Terry Smart (31 Oct 2006)

Our Finishing Oil (or equivalent) would be suitable for this project as it is very water resistant and should damage occur at some point in the future it is also easy to repair. Three or four coats, sanding between coats, should be sufficient and can be built to a gloss is desired or left as a more subtle finish.
However, we would normally recommend this is used on unsealed wood so this might be a little late.

An alternative would be our aerosol Acrylic Gloss Lacquer which is also highly water resistant. This would go over the Acrylic Sanding Sealer and give a very bright finish. You could sand this and dull it if required.
Acrylic Sanding Sealer in the brushing form is quite thick and prone to brush marks, sanding will get rid of them, but I wouldn't recommend more than one coat of sealer, especially if you are going to follow this with a lacquer.

(These probably aren't the products I'd suggest for your bedside cabinets although they will be suitable.)

Hope this offers some help.


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## kepla (5 Nov 2006)

Okay, I'm such a newbie here that this is actually my first post. I've been using walnut for a long time and it is my favourite wood ! 
I find that walnut in particular seems to resond better to a scraper for finishing than sandpaper. It is probably a combination of cutting the wood fibres cleanly and then not rubbing dust into the surface, but the grain you see in walnut which has been scraped - after the finish is applied - is 100% nicer than you see from sanded, I think. 
I've only recently 'discovered' scrapers - or at least how to use them properly - and am still in the first flush of enthusiasm. 
Straightforward Tung Oil finishes walnut beatifully and can be finished off with beeswax, though probably not for the bathroom. If you are using a water-based acrylic lacquer, have you tried applying it with a rubber - as you would with French Polish - instead of using a brush. A light rubbing with wire wool between coats should give a nice smooth finish without too much build. 
Just ideas.


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## DaveL (5 Nov 2006)

Hi Kepla, 

Welcome to the forum.


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## Newbie_Neil (6 Nov 2006)

Hi Kepla

Welcome to the forum.

Cheers
Neil


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## the_g_ster (7 Nov 2006)

As an update I have now tried both the oil and and acrylic, and I have to say that the oil looks 10 times better. On recommendation of above I have sanded down to 400 with the grain. I am new to all this too, but will be investing in a scraper, but still don't fully understand how they are used. I have found that the wood is more defined staight from the planer than it is post sanding. I have tried to raise the grain and run with the grain so I don't clog it too much. The oil really seems to bring out the colour of the wood and it looks stunning. The acrylic though pretty well finished and without brush marks just seems to make it look 2d, there is no real depth of finish. When you look at the oiled piece it changes according to angle.

I liked using the walnut so been planning what to make next. My local yard seems to have some good stuff in it without much in the way of sap. They also have some thinner 27mm steamed walnut. I take it that is in an attempt to purge some of the sap from it?



I am now thinking about a couple of bedisde cabinets and a dining room table. I have been looking around the web for some ideas and gathered together some good ones to make something a little different but not too modern. I would like quite a chunky table but bit worried about the weight of moving it. 

One curious point is well is on wastage. So far I havent had much at all, not some of the figures that are mentioned on here. I intend to post pictures of the cabinet project. That said my shed is in chaos right now so going to have to tidy up bit first.


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## joekid (12 Dec 2006)

definately a hand finish with the grain as mentioned above, fine paper or wool, couple of 50/50 spirit,polyeurathane varnish/ thats the old way ,dont know what the modern equivalent is the new modern (easiest no work at all required way )is, have fun


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## joekid (17 Jan 2007)

also ive recently read,dont let the drill speed drop below 500 rpm thats when circles become imminent, go down the grades of abrasives ,and dont miss any in between grades untill your at the finest grade,


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