# Need a wiring diagram from clarke motor (100LA/2)



## KingAether (12 May 2021)

Brought a used 1ph 3hp motor and starter recently but it came with no wiring diagram and i can't seem to find any online. 
has anyone wired the mentioned motor that could take a picture or have any idea if clarke/machine mart have the pdf files hidden on there sites anywhere
thank you


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## EddyCurrent (12 May 2021)

Usually there's a diagram inside the terminal box cover.

Lots of manuals here; Download Clarke Power Product Manuals and Guides
but nothing for a motor on it's own.

Maybe this is it; Clarke Single Phase Induction Motor Wiring Diagram


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## KingAether (12 May 2021)

NO diagram unfortunately and ive had a look through the product manuals with no much luck. The last link seems to be having issues on the host end but thank you, appreciate the links.This is the motor and switch as they are incase any motor wiz's are able to help


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## guineafowl21 (13 May 2021)

Are the terminals labelled? We could do with some pics, also of the motor rating plate and capacitor(s). The user @Myfordman has a link in his posts to an article about wiring up starters. We’ll get to that.

Here are some diagrams from a similar, six-wire TEC motor. These might come in handy once we get the info above.


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## KingAether (13 May 2021)

guineafowl21 said:


> Are the terminals labelled? We could do with some pics, also of the motor rating plate and capacitor(s). The user @Myfordman has a link in his posts to an article about wiring up starters. We’ll get to that.


 There are pictures of the termials in the post above yours and if you open them to full size i have marked the terminals clearly  Ill take a picture of the data plate and cap now


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## guineafowl21 (13 May 2021)

KingAether said:


> There are pictures of the termials in the post above yours and if you open them to full size i have marked the terminals clearly  Ill take a picture of the data plate and cap now


Ah, I couldn’t see that before, but now I can. Those designations are typically used for three phase motors.


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## KingAether (13 May 2021)




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## guineafowl21 (13 May 2021)

I can’t see why the product manual doesn’t include a wiring diagram. I got my TEC diagram from the company - is it worth contacting Clarke UK?

Unless someone knows this particular model, we’ll have to establish which connections are which, with a multimeter. Do you have one? Disconnect the mains wires and cap, and measure the resistance between U, V and W terminals.

Initial guess is: U1/2 are the run winding, V1/2 the start, and W1/2 access for the centrifugal switch.


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## KingAether (14 May 2021)

The website doesn't have product manuals or pdfs available for there motors; only compressors, presses etc and none inc wiring information. I tried contact clarke and machine mart and both tried to par me off to there tech teams on cost-per-minute premium #'s.
I was hoping someone would have had the same model that could take a photo but i will go out and buy a multi-meter shortly, there is an CEF a minute down the road.

I found the diagram for the switch on their website but still no luck with the motor. I have a multimeter now, so just need to wire switch to motor


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## guineafowl21 (14 May 2021)

I’ve worked out the terminal assignments of my TEC motor, so by comparison we can work out your motor’s setup.
U is the run winding.
V is the centrifugal switch (not used in perm cap version).
Z is the start/auxiliary winding.

Your motor only lists one capacitor, so it’s likely either a permanent cap or a start cap type. As far as I can see, your motor has both windings permanently connected, which is wrong, and no earth, so don’t attempt to plug it in until we’ve examined it.


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## KingAether (14 May 2021)

I wouldn't plug in until im certain its correct, this is just how it came. It doesn't have a mains cable/plug connected yet so no worries there


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## KingAether (14 May 2021)

With the cap removed and the rest of the wires as they are, resistance values across:
U 1+2 =no reading 
W 1+2 = 01.1
V 1+2 = 02.1


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## guineafowl21 (14 May 2021)

Sounds very low. What is the reading if you just short the meter leads together?

Take the brass straps off and repeat. Also check resistance from all points to an exposed metal part, ie earth.

We’ve had some confusion in reading the meter before - please take some pics of the meter screen during readings if you can. One chap was reading “1.—” as 1 ohm when it really meant open circuit.


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## KingAether (14 May 2021)

0.01 between the probes 
I don’t get a reading between the terminals and earth

V 1+2 



W 1+2



U1+2


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## guineafowl21 (14 May 2021)

I think your meter pictures are mislabelled. W1 and 2 (red wires) are the 1 ohm run winding.

How many terminals does your capacitor have? Assuming two, check the resistance between them settles on “oL”.

If all is well, connect as in the diagram below.

L to W1
N to W2
Cap between W1 and V1
Strap between W2 and V2
Earth to marked terminal

You could skip the starter for a quick ( a few seconds) test, but make sure the motor is secured so it doesn’t kick around, and be ready to switch off quickly. This has an element of guesswork, and for me it’s remote guesswork.


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## KingAether (14 May 2021)

I appreciate its guess work and am very thankful, its been stressing me out the last few days wanting to get it done and on. 
I have double checked and the terminal readings and correct, V = 1 and W = 2, does the latest diagram still hold if that is the case?


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## guineafowl21 (15 May 2021)

Like this then. Best to double check!


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## KingAether (15 May 2021)

Thank you. How do i go about strapping w1 and v1 with U in the middle ?- one from V to U and the other from U to W ?


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## guineafowl21 (15 May 2021)

KingAether said:


> Thank you. How do i go about strapping w1 and v1 with U in the middle ?- one from V to U and the other from U to W ?


You could just move the wires for now. If all goes well, I was going to suggest a more sensible terminal arrangement.

Don’t forget to test the cap isn’t shorted.


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## KingAether (15 May 2021)

I did check the cap and it showed Lo. 
What would you suggest for arrangement? I will do it now while i'm already down to the 4 winding wires


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## KingAether (15 May 2021)

I managed to get a wiring diagram ! Newbie question here but what are Cs and Cr; capstart and caprun ? the diagram is still like a foreign language to me 

Not quite so pressing but is there any way a 3ph switch can be wired for a 1ph motor or do i have to put this switch box back on the shelf ?


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## Spectric (15 May 2021)

Personally I would buy a new one, you know that it is safe and that the overload is functional rather than that very old MEM.


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## KingAether (15 May 2021)

This was my best try at following the diagrams but no joy, but also no bang or smoke so that’s good


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## MikeK (15 May 2021)

KingAether said:


> This was my best try at following the diagrams but no joy, but also no bang or smoke so that’s good
> View attachment 110565
> 
> View attachment 110564



Where does the cable on the right, connected to W2 and U2, go? This doesn't look correctly wired, since the blue and brown wires of this cable appear to be effectively connected to each other because of the shorting strap.

Also, how do you have the Iskra contactor wired? Did you follow the Iskra recommendation for the 1-pole or 2-pole configuration? From what I've seen on the Internet, if you configure the contactor as a 1-pole device, you connect the brown line wire to Terminal 1, connect a short jumper between Terminals 2 and 4, another short jumper between Terminals 3 and 5, and the brown wire to the motor to Terminal 6. This method assumes the blue line and motor conductors are connected together.

I recommend the 2-pole configuration with the brown line wire connected to Terminal 1, the blue line wire connected to Terminal 5, the brown motor wire connected to Terminal 4, the blue motor wire connected to Terminal 6, and a jumper wire connected to Terminals 2 and 3.


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## KingAether (15 May 2021)

I sometimes draw a blank and really struggle to understand a fairly simple concept and unfortunately this seems to be one.
Would either of you mine drawing a dummy proof diagram with wire colours etc, the diagram Clarke sent me might as well be French, it would be very much appreciated! 


Diagrams again for easy checking in one place

I've already started one based on your 2-pole recommendation, all the terminals marked and winding wires key'd, just need to save and complete it


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## guineafowl21 (15 May 2021)

^^^ MikeK is right, you haven’t added the jumper (dotted line in the diagram), so no power was getting through.

The diagrams you have found aren’t for your motor, as they include two caps. Even if that’s a variant of your motor, your wires have been swapped around so it’s meaningless - U1 should be one of the red wires, for a start.

Just hook it up as per my diagram, without the starter for now, to minimise complications. We’ll sort out the proper arrangement once we know the motor and starter work.


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## KingAether (15 May 2021)

guineafowl21 said:


> ^^^ MikeK is right, you haven’t added the jumper (dotted line in the diagram), so no power was getting through.
> 
> The diagrams you have found aren’t for your motor, as they include two caps. Even if that’s a variant of your motor, your wires have been swapped around so it’s meaningless - U1 should be one of the red wires, for a start.
> 
> Just hook it up as per my diagram, without the starter for now, to minimise complications. We’ll sort out the proper arrangement once we know the motor and starter work.


Ah thats a bit of a pain, its the one Clarke sent me for the motor model i gave them..

To go about wiring as per your diagram do the terminals matter at all or just the winding ends? If i swap one end of the run winding from V2 to U2 so i can strap to W2, do i not need to move the other end from V1 to U1 ? If not, just to clarify, that would be Live to V1, Neutral to U2(v2 currently) and strapped to W2 ? earth to ground of course. Do the two vertical lines mean the cap across V1 and W1

Also i really dont understand electrical diagrams, what do the squiggly lines mean? To make sure the resistance matches between W1+2 and V1+2 (U2) ?

I've already corrected the wires in the starter based on Mikes comment, as shown in my previous post if that is now correct


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## guineafowl21 (16 May 2021)

Here’s a simpler diagram.

1. Re-arrange the red and green motor wires so they go to the terminals indicated. Note that the terminals don’t connect to anything on their own; they’re merely tie points.

2. Connect the straps as shown.

3. Connect cap - the wire colours don’t matter.

4. Connect earth, line and neutral as shown.

I recommend you then directly wire on a plug for the test, since it’s best to test one thing at a time. There’s no point in addressing the starter if the motor’s goosed.

5. Secure the motor, and ohm check between the L and N pins of the plug with your meter - it should read the 1.0 ohm winding.

6. Plug in, and briefly switch on and off.

7. Report back.


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## KingAether (16 May 2021)

Amazing, that i can understand, i will head out to the shed and give it a try in a few minuites and get back to you. Thank you very much again, you and mike for the time taken !


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## KingAether (16 May 2021)

All works perfect, thanks once more for the help! I checked it on a plug then went on and added the switch once i knew it worked.  Now i can get back to ags itself. Now i have pictures of the correct wiring etc ill redo it before i put the saw into daily use and use more appropriate gauge cable and put terminal rings on the wire ends that are currently just clamped under the nuts
Me being the smarty pants i am managed to drop a terminal nut in the hole the winding wires come from so now i need to persuade the motors cap off so i can get it out. It made no problem but it rattling around was a bit of an ear ache


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## guineafowl21 (16 May 2021)

KingAether said:


> All works perfect, thanks once more for the help! I checked it on a plug then went on and added the switch once i knew it worked.  Now i can get back to ags itself. Now i have pictures of the correct wiring etc ill redo it before i put the saw into daily use and use more appropriate gauge cable and put terminal rings on the wire ends that are currently just clamped under the nuts
> Me being the smarty pants i am managed to drop a terminal nut in the hole the winding wires come from so now i need to persuade the motors cap off so i can get it out. It made no problem but it rattling around was a bit of an ear ache


Well done! Just confirm it’s spinning the right way before you button it all up.

With a high power motor like that I’d get, say, 5m of 2.5mm2, 3-core H07 RN-F rubber flex. Very hard wearing and supple. Places like CEF sell it by the metre. They would also do ring terminals, crimping pliers and even 2.5mm ferrules for the plug end, if you’re feeling fancy.


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## KingAether (16 May 2021)

If not spinning the correct way is it just the straps that need to move ? 
I checked and CEF down the road have the cable and ferrules and a friend will me a few ring terminals in the morning save buying 100 for 3


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## guineafowl21 (17 May 2021)

KingAether said:


> If not spinning the correct way is it just the straps that need to move ?
> I checked and CEF down the road have the cable and ferrules and a friend will me a few ring terminals in the morning save buying 100 for 3


Yes, move the straps. Ferrules or possibly open ring terminals are also good for the starter connections.


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## KingAether (17 May 2021)

Got it all rewired this afternoon, added ring terminals where needed and ferrules where i could; When i have the money i think ill replace all my machinery cable with this same stuff and make a 10/15m extension from it.
Once more thank you for all the help, been a great


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## guineafowl21 (17 May 2021)

KingAether said:


> Got it all rewired this afternoon, added ring terminals where needed and ferrules where i could; When i have the money i think ill replace all my machinery cable with this same stuff and make a 10/15m extension from it.
> Once more thank you for all the help, been a great
> View attachment 110739


You’re ok with 1.5mm2 flex for most shop machines. The 2.5 gives you plenty of headroom for that large motor, and will be fine if you ever find you need a blue 16A socket for the saw. It also has a big fat earth to keep your earth loop impedance low, even with the typically long lead a table saw needs because it’s out in the middle of the shop floor.


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