# a pretty good mitered frame glue up jig



## danmosheim (28 Apr 2011)

i've been struggling to find the 'best' way to glue up mitered frames for, oh, 30 years or so. i think we've finally got it ... the picture below show the basics of the concept. it's quick to build, easy to use and takes up minimal time and materials ... all the things a good jig should be ... there are detailed, step by step instructions for building it and larger photos on my dorset custom furniture blog. here's a link ... i never know how to do this ... http://dorsetcustomfurniture.blogspot.com/2011/03/best-miter-gluing-jig-ever-imho.html

and this will give you the general idea ...


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## goldeneyedmonkey (2 May 2011)

I had to look at you blog to understand... but great jig, it's going on the to-do list as we speak  

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. _Dan.


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## tisdai (3 May 2011)

A great idea m8, will definately be on my list of jigs to make

CHeers

Dave


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## Woodchips2 (4 May 2011)

Simple design and easy to make.Thanks very much.
Regards Keith


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## Benchwayze (27 May 2011)

I have a metal version of the 'X' Framing clamp. 
Shown on't tube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGAKIVe- ... re=related

I only ever needed the one, but if I did need another, then based on the effectiveness of my own, this is the one I would make. This is a video showing the making of one of those jigs:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kATTbpJV ... re=related


HTH
John


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## Peter Sefton (16 Jun 2011)

Just wanted to show you a mitre clamping method that I have used many times over the years. The picture shows a small maple tray which could be glued up purely with masking tape as in the V groove and joint method which is used in melamine-faced chipboard kitchen drawer constructions. A budget treatment and it works …

For me when gluing up these trays I like to use a band cramp as shown, available from Halfords etc. To make this work effectively you need to make some solid timber corner blocks as seen in the first photo. I make these in metre long lengths out of a good strong hardwood, such as ash or maple. If you use pine they will just break.

The corner blocks are machined with a rebate and then an Ovolo rounding cutter used to create a clean curve on the outside of the block. The blocks have to be coated in any lacquer or French polish that you may have hanging around the workshop, to stop them sticking to the glued up mitred frame (disaster!). Parcel tape will do as a barrier, if you are in a hurry.

On this occasion I have cut the blocks off to 25mm long to match the tray frame but I do also use them at 1 metre long for example, if gluing up a veneered and mitred pedestal or similar construction. Once the blocks are made, it is very cheap to use, totally versatile for the size of mitre frame you are putting together and you are using equal pressure on all the joints, whether it be a square, pentagon or other frame.

The beauty is that if the mitres are accurate, if will always pull the frame into square. 

Cheers Peter


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## CHJ (16 Jun 2011)

danmosheim":10sfq9o3 said:


> ........ there are detailed, step by step instructions for building it and larger photos on my dorset custom furniture blog. here's a link ... i never know how to do this ...



Enter your code thus:

```
[url=http://dorsetcustomfurniture.blogspot.com/2011/03/best-miter-gluing-jig-ever-imho.html]Here's a link  ... [/url]
```

Results in this:
here's a link ...


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