# DIY carving axe



## SpoonsbySven (17 Nov 2015)

Hi Folks, 
I’ve been meaning to post a few pics of the carving axe I “made” a little while ago. I was inspired by Robin Wood and John Neeman, amazing craftsmen both, and the beautiful carving axe they collaborated to produce (I know John Neeman's not with Neeman Tools anymore, but they're all still making beautiful things). At £260, I’m sure it’s worth every penny, but it’ll be a while before I have enough pennies for one of those. In the meantime, I decided to have a go at making one of my own. 

Neeman tools carving axe “Robin Wood edition”: http://www.neemantools.com/en/products/axes/carving-axe-robin-wood
Robin Wood: http://www.robin-wood.co.uk/

I picked up this old Kentish pattern axe at a car boot sale ages ago, and had been meaning to put a new handle on it. Then I thought maybe it was time to be a bit more radical…





Taking inspiration from John Neemand and Robin Woods’ creation, I marked out some lines and set to with a hacksaw:







Then a bench grinder:




I copied this simple jig for grinding the bevel from Tim Manney:http://timmanneychairmaker.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/carving-axe-edge-geometry-and-grinding.html




(Quite) a few hours of filing and sanding, and here’s the finished head. I spent some time easing all the edges (except the important one!) and couldn’t resist polishing them up...







Finally, a handle from a broken felling axe handle; it was the best piece of seasoned ash I had at the time. I really want to make another handle for it with a greater curve and nice big bulge at the end. I’ve since found just the piece of wood, but this one works pretty well for now...





It's a pleasure to use: a bit lighter than the Gransfors Bruks carving axe, and I guess ideally i'd prefer it a bit heavier. And I think next time I'd make the bevel a bit steeper. 
Hope this is of interest. 
Cheers, 
Sven 

PS: When reshaping the cutting edge, and grinding the bevel, a couple of questions occurred to me:
1) is this axe likely to have had a bit of harder steel inserted to form the cutting edge? I can't see any signs of a forge weld in that area. It's a Chip Chop No 1 by Gilpins of Cannock, if that helps.
2) is it likely to have been differentially tempered, with the cutting edge harder than the rest? When grinding the edge, I was very careful not to overheat it, but you can see how much material I removed, and I wonder if I could have ground back past the hardest steel? It's definitely not the hardest of edges, and I wondered whether I should consider having a go at re-hardening and then re-tempering it one day...


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## xraymtb (18 Nov 2015)

Good job, got a similar head lying around as might give one a go.


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## monkeybiter (18 Nov 2015)

I don't know anything about axes but that's a very nicely formed shape and bevel. I also like the fact that your grinding jig has function as it's priority, rather than being pretty.


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## John15 (18 Nov 2015)

Congratulations Sven. You have formed a very attractive axe out of an 'ugly duckling'.

John


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## Sheffield Tony (18 Nov 2015)

These Kent pattern axes were made by folding and welding, so there is a weld in there somewhere, and quite possibly a harder bit. It doesn't look like you have taken that much off the cutting edge. Did it seem harder near the edge when you took the hacksaw to it ?

The spoon carving axe Robin is currently selling looks very like a Bacho one with a posh handle and polished bevels to me. Does seem to take/hold a decent edge though, cconsidering its modest price.

I make do with a Goldenberg French axe which is a kind of useful shape.


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## Racers (18 Nov 2015)

That's something I just might have to try, and thanks for the links, that Neeman axe is a thing of beauty.

Pete


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## xraymtb (18 Nov 2015)

Just read the Neeman link - very interesting to anyone who likes to make tools. 

Decent video from them as well - part of a series

https://youtu.be/paCyA9ypEOE


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## Fatboy (18 Nov 2015)

I have absolutely no need for an axe of any kind - but now I want one!


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## SpoonsbySven (19 Nov 2015)

Guys, 
Thank you all for the kind compliments. 

Tony, you're right about the forge welding around the eye- that one is definitely visible. Nothing discenible along the cutting edge though, and I couldn't really feel a difference when cutting with the hacksaw. 

Edge wise, it isn't the best in the world, which is partly what got me wondering about the hardening. Of course, it may just be the steel- I hardly used it before "the treatment" as the head was really loose on the handle. 

Thanks again. And if you're thinking about having a go- do it!
Cheers, 
Sven


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## matt_southward (26 Nov 2015)

That's a very impressive 'up-cycle'  The shape is very reminiscent of the Gransfors Carving axe - which, funnily enough I find a bit heavy, though I could just be a weed! I'll certainly think about doing something similar the next time I come across an old axe head like that.

With regards to the steel, whilst I'm no expert I think there's a fair chance it's a fire-welded insert or differentially hardened (or folded in as Tony says). It's not that hard a job to anneal the steel and re-harden it if you find you've somehow drawn the temper. Did you check all of the edge with a hand file? As Tony said, it didn't look like you took much off the edge so the insert/fold should still be in there.

Nice job anyway - inspirational - good job really as I'll never be able to afford Robin's creation!


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## Steve1066 (4 Dec 2015)

Very nice. Love the old in to new handle as well.


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## SpoonsbySven (5 Dec 2015)

Thanks for that Steve. 
I forgot to say that I used a small "spoon knife" to texture the surface of the handle, then gave it a very light rub with 240g sandpaper just to smooth off the sharpest of edges. The result is a satin, but still very grippy surface which feels great. 
Sven


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## Paul200 (5 Dec 2015)

Like Monkeybiter, I've no use for one of these (as far as I know) but that is a beautiful transformation 8)


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## Steve1066 (6 Dec 2015)

Thanks for the info Sven


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## bugbear (6 Dec 2015)

With this thread as a starting point, I ended up watching Robin Wood sharpen his carving axe.

Scary sharp, sequence 800-1200-1500, followed by Autosol on MDF.

So a "full" polished edge.

He then used it on a log with the bark still on?!

Isn't that rather asking for grit damage to a (rather nice) edge?

BugBear


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## Racers (19 Dec 2015)

Transmogrifying a hatchet into a carving axe.



19th December by Racers, on Flickr

Pete


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## SpoonsbySven (22 Dec 2015)

Nice one Pete!
I'm intrigued by the extra "point" on the underside, just above where your index finger would be if you choked right up on the handle. Is it an aesthetic feature, or is there another purpose?

I'm interested to know how you think it performs. 

Cheers, 
Sven


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## Racers (22 Dec 2015)

I will get it finished over the Xmas break and let you know how it performs.

Pete


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