# Pusher for planer



## devonwoody (4 Jan 2011)

Thinking of the new woodwork season ahead for me I think I will construct a new jig to use on my Planer/thicknesser.
I dislike my conventional pusher that is used on the top planer because it is held in position of the timber by just that usual hand toke at the end. 

Whereas I normally like to have some weight bearing down on the front of the timber to be planed when kicking off and gradually transferring my weight to the rear end as I progress over the blade.

So I am going to make a pusher that has a hand hold for my left hand (I am right handed) at the front end like this. 


What are your views?


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## jasonB (4 Jan 2011)

I have a set of the plastic ones, you could make something similar to the long one which is handy for short lengths of wood.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-wo ... for=388022

The rubber on the bottom does not grip well so I added a couple of 5mm holes at the back and push a pair of wooden dowels through so the thing won't slip along the wood. You can make the length to suit your timber

Of coarse using a handle like this makes it impossible to have the top gaurd over the cutter block!!

J


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## devonwoody (4 Jan 2011)

Thanks Jason, I tend to only have the blade guard covering the exposed blade at start, do admit this does mean that the whole blade is exposed after timber has passed over.

Is my technique wrong BTW?


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## jasonB (4 Jan 2011)

Proper way is to pass the work under the guard which should be extended over the whole blade whenever possible.


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## studders (4 Jan 2011)

Probably just me and my cack-handedness but I find that way more dangerous than moving the guard back the width of the wood.


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## jumps (4 Jan 2011)

studders":t9vuvc9a said:


> Probably just me and my cack-handedness but I find that way more dangerous than moving the guard back the width of the wood.



definitely not 'just you'

safety recommendations always seem to conflict in this general area - working without overreaching, comfortably, in control, etc and some guards that is.

my planner/jointer is definitely the worst culprit!


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## devonwoody (5 Jan 2011)

Thinking back on my technique, I realise that doing the thin edge on wide boards the guard is never entirely over the whole of the blade, long lengths of wide faced board does get the guard over the top but its those small lengths that I do no cover the whole blade. Thats to get better control of those timber ends.


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## Ian (6 Jan 2011)

I also slide mine to the side, the american guard seems to be on a spring which seems better - is it possible to buy this type of guard in the UK?

Cheers
Ian


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## studders (6 Jan 2011)

Maybe but, how would you fit it with no hole thingy for it to go into?

NO suggestions as to which hole I could put it in, thank you.


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## Woodmatt (8 Jan 2012)

Hi Guys,
This is my first post although I have been looking at the site for sometime.
I made myself two pushers similar to the Axminster ones from 18mm ply off cuts and then glued a rectangle of Router mat to the bottom,holds really well and no need for the block at the back.
I also much prefer to run the guard up to the side of the work piece rather than run the timber under the guard.
Matthew


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## mailee (9 Jan 2012)

Oh yes, I know all about those guards guys. :lol: I have been thinking along the same lines as the rest of you. My idea was to use two flat blocks with hand holds and some of the non slip router mat on the bottom. At least that way you can plane longer lengths without relying on the hook at the rear of the push block.
P.S. Ian that type of guard is called the 'pork chop' type and it is illegal here in the uk for commercial machines so you can't buy them I am afraid. I have one on my smaller planer and love it. :wink:


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## Tinbasher (15 Jan 2012)

What worries me about this design is that your front hand is over the cutter and pressing down so that any slip could bring it down on the cutter.


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