# Earlex HVLP 5000 - thinning paint, how much?



## JanneKi (18 Apr 2011)

I tried spraying yesterday with my Earlex HVLP5000, first with the 1.5 needle and then with the 2.0 needle. Unthinned paint (rather thick) just sputtered out and I eventually thinned it (water based) with water almost 50% so that it became almost like water. Then I was able to get proper atomisation, but well - it then seems to start dripping rather easily (I sprayed too much also!).

How much do you have to thin the pain for which needle size actually? The kit contained a DIN paint cup that you can use to measure it, but how much is enough?

Thanks in advance,

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And I really should read the freakin' manual (RTFM), it's stated there on page 4... 

Water based paints and emulsions 25 - 60 seconds
Oil based paints 45 - 50 seconds
Wood preservatives No dilution
Primers 45 - 50 seconds
Varnishes No dilution
Aluminium paints No dilution
Wood stains No dilution
Automotive paint Manufacturer’s ratio

This spray gun can be used with products having a viscosity ranging from 25 to a
maximum of 60 seconds. Dip the viscosity cup into the material and fill up. Time how long
it takes for the viscosity cup to empty (Fig 1).


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## lemonjeff (18 Apr 2011)

With the Earlex don't try to thin too much, use the bigger needle and apply a thicker coat, the less thinning the better.
I was advised to do this by Morrells and it does work better as I had the same problems as you, the finish is a little orange peely so more flattening is necessary.
I found that 2 primers and 3 top coats were necessary for a really good finish with the Earlex.

Jeff.


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## JanneKi (20 Apr 2011)

Another trial - this time with turpentine thinned paint (Sadolin 40) - I measured the viscosity with the cup and well, for sure that approach works much better! However, I did again have the drip problem a bit but it's really hard to 
a) cover every place with one coat
b) realize when to stop! 
Any tips/pointer on that? How much is enough?

How do you guys paint more complex shapes, how do you rotate the objects without touching the object itself? 
What if if you have to paint 4 or more sides of an object, do you paint 1st the sides & backside and then later on front (2nd day or after the paint is Ok to be re-painted)?

Spray painting actually is not exactly as simple as one would think...


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## olivetree (21 Apr 2011)

I am about to purchase an earlex, what do you think of it?? 

What are you spraying??

a) don't worry about covering everything with one coat, i've been told to build up the coats. 

You can buy a base thats spins 360 from rutlands, check it out. I'm defiantly going to get one.


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## mailee (23 Apr 2011)

Using the spraygun test the pattern on a scrap piece first and this will give you an idea of how fast to move the gun. Once happy with this make your first pass and then make the next pass overlap the first by half the width of the fan and continue this until you have reached the end of the surface. (Do not go over it any more until it has flashed) When it has flashed (Touch dry) make another series of passes and continue in this way to build up the coats. HTH. :wink:


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## JanneKi (24 Apr 2011)

Got some better (water based) paint now, something from Akzo Nobel - industrial paint for windows etc., so it's both for outdoors and indoors. The results were now much better, although the Earlex was definitely struggling to atomize it (perhaps would have needed just a bit more thinning) - the shop that sold it me said to thin it 5-10%. 

However, the problem was this time that I got some strange "bubbles" in it, or like pinholes in the actual paint. It dried out rather beautifully and the spots where I did not overspray (drips!) it was rather good looking surface. I wonder if there was some dust left in the objects that I painted? Better clean them up better next time, I've now sanded them with 240 Abranet...


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## JanneKi (25 Apr 2011)

Another day, another trial - same paint, now I just properly cleaned the dust off the stair balusters before painting them - and as trying to learn from my mistakes - did not spray so much this time, but rather very very thin layer. The outcome was much better and no strange pinholes or anything. I also stirred the pain very carefully, i.e. trying to avoid mixing air into the paint.

So far I like the Earlex a lot - keep in mind though that this is only the 2nd air spay I'm ever using in my life, so I don't have loads of expertise on this. Compared to an electric Wagner spray, this is much quieter or the noise at least is of a more enjoyable type. Cleaning up the gun is a chore, but well - better do it properly than spoil the equipment. The tool itself is rather simple, not many knobs/controls but I get along with the ones I have. 

The only grief I have is the air intake in the bottom of the unit - I think that's a bad placement for it, since if there's dirt -> it's bound to be on the floor. I've actually now started to put in to of the paint bucket and also I've now placed a piece of EU3 filter cloth underneath to help keep the air cleaner. The filter that comes in as standard seems a bit ridiculous.


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