# Router Table Ideas



## andysubaru30 (21 Apr 2009)

Hi Guys,
Am new to this forum and amazed i havent noticed it before. What am looking to make is a basic router table. Is there any useful post that show me how to make a good one or anything along that lines.

Thanks for your help


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## Chems (21 Apr 2009)

I don't know if this is helpful but heres my build of my table. Still ongoing.

Router Table Build

Theres some good ones on the site if you use the search and just pop in router table and search the projects forum.


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## Shultzy (21 Apr 2009)

I'm part way through mine, but do as Chems says and do a search.


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## PerranOak (1 May 2009)

I too am ready to build a table.

The problem is not too few ideas, it's too many!

If you search on-line you'll get "Google-eyed" as designs for thousands fly around you ... my head is swimming.

I've considered everything from an expensive "bought table" to two planks and a clamp!

I think I favour a small, portable table for my diddy router now ... but which design!


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## wizer (1 May 2009)

I think if you've not had a RT before then you should build something very simple. Use an insert plate but build it out of cheap materials with a straight edge fence. Use it for a few months and make up your own mind as to what features you need. You may decide that you'll never use a RT.


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## Digit (1 May 2009)

Depends on what you intend making. I started with a table and thought it was the Bee's knees.
Two problems soon emerged, first, when placed on the work bench it was too high for comfort, and as soon as I made anything that required a heavy timber or a large cut it would move!
I don't like tables!

Roy.


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## wizer (1 May 2009)

exactly why it should be an evolution. Don't rush out and buy top end kits (even if you're making it) if you don't know what you want.


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## Digit (1 May 2009)

> exactly why it should be an evolution.



Have to agree with you there mate! Our first thoughts aren't necessarily the best ones, unfortunately.

Roy.


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## PerranOak (1 May 2009)

What's a good insert? I have a Trend T5.

Also, the fence will need to be movable. Do people just clamp it?


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## Digit (1 May 2009)

> Do people just clamp it?



You can do. In the most basic form the fence is simply a straight piece of timber and two clamps.

Roy.


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## Steve Maskery (1 May 2009)

My first RT was a piece of plywood with a hinged leg at one end and a cleat at the other, clamped in my workmate. The fence was MDF and two G-clamps. I did a lot of stuff on that.
I then built Norm's, modifying it a bit with Bill Hylton's horizontal router built into one end. I made my own micro-adjustable fence. I can't fault it, but it's not a cheap option, you need a couple of sheets of Baltic Birch Ply. It will last for ever though. Plans are available from any Brimarc stockist.

As for inserts, I think the Woodpecker must be about the best. I wish I'd bought it. I have the Tilgear aluminium one. It's quite good and heaps better than the Rousseau/Trend/Axminster offering.
S


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## gidon (1 May 2009)

Andy

Sorry no step by steps. Personally I'd not bother with an insert and spend the money on an Xtreme Xtension and attach the router directly to the table. Much easier plus the quick change feature on the XX makes using the table a breeze.

Here's my table: two sheets of MDF, laminated with a Trend T11 attached directly to top:







Cheers

Gidon


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## OPJ (1 May 2009)

Digit":wh8mfgz3 said:


> ...when placed on the work bench it was too high for comfort, and as soon as I made anything that required a heavy timber or a large cut it would move!
> I don't like tables!



I made a bench top model a few months ago, I think it's slightly less than 400mm tall...? Anyway. I've found my Black & Decker Workmate (in it's lowest position, with the feet folded in) gives a comfortable height for working - that probably equates to about 1m off the floor. I totally agree that they are too tall for most tables and workbenches, or vice-versa. 

All I can suggest to prevent it from moving with longer lengths is to clamps or fix it down securely, somehow.

Like Steve, I've also got the Tilgear plate and I rate it very highly. Axminster do a very similar aluminium plate with a few subtle differences.


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## Digit (1 May 2009)

> All I can suggest to prevent it from moving with longer lengths is to clamps or fix it down securely, somehow.


I couldn't find a way of holding the damn thing down Olly, that was one of the problems, anyway, it convinced to build it into the bench top eventually, now it's built into my T/S saw so at least I can now support long timbers as I run them through.

Roy.


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## oddsocks (1 May 2009)

I've built a number of tops and router cabinets but have settled on this, a home made one with an insert that fits on my Electra Beckum saw extension. The ply top is shimmed to be flush with the table, and the saw and riving knife can wind down below flush. To change a cutter just lift it up and tilt it. If i need the full saw table it just gets lifted out of the way.

The wooden cross is because I lost my mitre that fitted the track, so just made that (pic taken from my garden table thread)





The Brimarc catalog came with the latest Good Wood magazine, and looking in there you can spend a fortune on fences, tables etc - no doubt for a professional they pay back, but I have no issues with the accuracy or ease of mine. Don't get sucked in to having to pay for the shiny all singing all dancing systems until you understand what you need and why. If possible buy items that you can reuse (in my case the insert and the channel).

The one item I would recommend from the brimarc catalog is the 4 corners that would make levelling and securing a table insert so much easier. Code is 476157 and cost £14.15. In the same catalogue the insert is £49 (but tha is kreg and i think other similar but cheaper options can be found)

Dave


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## Chems (1 May 2009)

I have the aluminum gold insert plate from axminster and I'd highly recommend it.


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## OPJ (2 May 2009)

Digit":3coqz5lf said:


> I couldn't find a way of holding the damn thing down...



Ah, but, that's why I gave my based 2" overhang all round, as well as the top!  Screws, clamps, anything goes when I need it. 8) :wink:


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## Derek Willis. (2 May 2009)

I kep reading of people having trouble holding down their insert plate for their router, how come? Mine just sits in the recess and there it stays, no movement, no deflectin, no levelling screws, no holding down screws, just the plate, why oh! why?
My table is now about 15 years old, made of very little, cost next to nothing does everthing I have ever asked it to do, oeriginally I made my own insert plate from 6mm. alloy, this I had for most of the table's life, but when I bought a door panel set I needed a larger aperture so I bought the basic Axminster table insert and there you are, perfect every time, just be carefull when routing the recess and you will have no bother at all.
Derek.


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## PerranOak (3 May 2009)

Chems":3guvcs9b said:


> I have the aluminum gold insert plate from axminster and I'd highly recommend it.


It says on the Axminster site that it has marks for holes that you drill yourself!

How does that work? I've only ever drilled holes in wood!


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## Derek Willis. (3 May 2009)

Just drill the holes,but, don't use a wood bit.
Using a metal drill and a very small one as a plot first, then the larger size to take your fixings.
Derek.


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## PerranOak (3 May 2009)

Not sure I get that ... bit thick, I am.

Drill a hole but how will the screw stay put in a smooth metal hole?


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## wizer (3 May 2009)

Take it slow and use a much smaller bit first to drill a pilot hole, then use the ful size bit complete the hole.


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## Chems (3 May 2009)

Axminster site says it has the marks for common routers on the bottom of the plate to help you site the router, but it doesn't. 

You drill your hole as normal with a metal bit. Then use a much larger metal bit to countersink the top of the hole as you would in wood. The ally is very soft and works easily.


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## PerranOak (3 May 2009)

... but don't you have to put a thread into the hole? How do you do that?


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## DaveL (3 May 2009)

PerranOak":391dnlj7 said:


> ... but don't you have to put a thread into the hole? How do you do that?


Most routers have tapped holes on the base, used to hold some jigs in place or to hold the router in a table. The screws go though the plate in the table into the thread in the router, no need to put a thread into the plate. Not that is that hard to do using a tap, which cuts the thread into a hole.


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## Digit (3 May 2009)

Or use a nut and a bolt.

Roy.


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## TheTiddles (4 May 2009)

If you want to use a Trend T11 though you'll need to make a 20mm hole, which is a much harder prospect, thankfully we have a mill at work!

Aidan


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## johncs (11 May 2009)

Steve Maskery":105mjv4e said:


> My first RT was a piece of plywood with a hinged leg at one end and a cleat at the other, clamped in my workmate. The fence was MDF and two G-clamps. I did a lot of stuff on that.



Sounds like a Speilman design, from the Router Handbook.

An old steel-framed desk is a good starting point. I made some pine clips to hold the Triton MOF001 under it, then plunged it through. The first fence, a straight piece of MDF clamped with a pair of Irwin quick-release clamps.


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## contadino (11 May 2009)

The thing that's confusing me about a router table is setting the depth. I have a Bosch POF 1200 AE which doesn't have a screw-type depth adjustment thing. I've looked at things like the Router Raizer, but it's not compatible with my router. I've read about sticking a car jack under the router and adjusting it like that, but it seems a little dangerous to me.

Not having the money to shell out for a new router, what are the options?

Thanks.


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## johncs (11 May 2009)

contadino":1p21gihb said:


> The thing that's confusing me about a router table is setting the depth. I have a Bosch POF 1200 AE which doesn't have a screw-type depth adjustment thing. I've looked at things like the Router Raizer, but it's not compatible with my router. I've read about sticking a car jack under the router and adjusting it like that, but it seems a little dangerous to me.
> 
> Not having the money to shell out for a new router, what are the options?
> 
> Thanks.




Take it out. Use the stop rod (I forget the technical name for the moment, I can see it on the front of all the pics I could find) to set the final depth.

Adjust for the first cut. Lock it with the lock lever on the back (I can't see it in the pics, but it's there).

Insert in table, do first cut.

Remove, Adjust, repeat till done.

Hints.

Put router on benchtop, plunge until the bit touches the benchtop. This is the zero point, and there may be a gauge you can set to this.

If you want to cut to the depth of some object - a ceramic tile say, or a piece of wood, then having zeroed it you can sit the router on two of the tiles or such, and plunge the router until the bit touches the benchtop. This is the depth you need to route for the tile.


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## andysubaru30 (20 May 2009)

I see Rutlands are doing an offer on a router table for £89 i think. Can anyone give me advice on it and any user reviews would be helpful, Thanks


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## Fergus (24 May 2009)

andysubaru30":5osg4ttl said:


> I see Rutlands are doing an offer on a router table for £89 i think. Can anyone give me advice on it and any user reviews would be helpful, Thanks



Must admit I was looking at that as well !


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## Creampuff (27 May 2009)

andysubaru30":31klryg4 said:


> I see Rutlands are doing an offer on a router table for £89 i think. Can anyone give me advice on it and any user reviews would be helpful, Thanks



I bought one of those a few months ago.

All in all not a bad table for that price, easy to put together, although you may need to drill a couple of holes in the insert plate to accommodate you particular router.
The table top is heavy and flat and will take the weight of a nice chunky router.
One thing I would suggest is not placing the 2pcs of adhesive measuring tape where it says in the manual (_and in the picture_) as all this will do is catch on the work piece running along the table.
The fence is cheap, but does all that you'll need it to do, it can stick and become hard to move, this is because the bolt that fit in the T track are not a great fit.
The main frame looks very flimsy, but this can be easily remedied by boxing it in with MDF with a door on the front, and a shelf to stick all your bits on.

All in all for a first router table, its done me proud...

Now I just need to make a bigger one that will take the 17" incra positioner I just bought... :shock: 


Regards

Andy


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## Fergus (30 May 2009)

Creampuff":1fxymnar said:


> andysubaru30":1fxymnar said:
> 
> 
> > I see Rutlands are doing an offer on a router table for £89 i think. Can anyone give me advice on it and any user reviews would be helpful, Thanks
> ...



Cheers for the reply-I went and ordered one-and after what you wrote above I aplied the tape to the edges,as I can see what you mean about how it would catch the workpiece.

Overall I am very impressed with it,seemed easy to put together and better quality than I was expecting.The insert was fairly straightforward to drill as well ,as it has circle type templates.Now I just need a collet extension as my router does not have enough plunge to get through the table :/ 

I was actually sent two router tables lol ..I thought at first the legs might be in a seperate box,but both boxes were identical.The paperwork for both was the same on both boxes as well.As I am an honest type of guy I rang rutlands up straight away and told them they had sent me two but I had only piad for one they said they would pick it up next day..never even got a thankyou !! 




















At the moment for the 50% off price it seems way better than I could make -once you add up the cost of an insert plate ,thick laminated piece for the top and a decent sturdy set of legs it seems great value.


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## Creampuff (30 May 2009)

It is indeed a good table and a nice size for that price.

I'm sure you'll have many happy hours with it :wink: 

As for the collet extension, I believe this one has had some good reviews

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psPro ... i/XTENSION



Regards

Andy


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## Fergus (30 May 2009)

Creampuff":qtpbgidh said:


> It is indeed a good table and a nice size for that price.
> 
> I'm sure you'll have many happy hours with it :wink:
> 
> ...



Cheers -I had looked at that one and think I may well order it- as all the others seem to be one collet size or another ! Whereas at least that does both


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