# wadkin RS lathe restoration



## wallace (5 Feb 2015)

Time to restore a big boy lathe. This is the one Berncarpenter had for sale, and I couldn't resist. He made a huge effort to make sure it was well and truly secured to the pallet by bolts, screws, staples and rope. I am very thankfull because pallet couriers seem to getting worse. Everything arrived safe and I spent a good hour freeing everything from the pallet  



























Then I started to break the machine down to its components, I have a good selection of pullers from car boots or these cheap hong kong ones. Really a must when messing with old iron.






When I took the chuck off I was amazed at the quality of the threads, either the chuck has not been taken off much in the last 80 years or it has had a new shaft at some point.






It all came apart pretty easy











The motors quite a lump for 1.5hp


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## n0legs (5 Feb 2015)

Another Phoenix rising from the ashes =D> 
Love these threads, keep it up mate.


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## Berncarpenter (5 Feb 2015)

Hi Mark 
Really pleased you bought the RS and its getting the makeover it deserves  I will be following this thread closely and hope it all goes to plan . 

Cheers Bern


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## wallace (6 Feb 2015)

Next job was to remove the spindle, I had expected some trouble but it went really smooth. Just remove the end caps, remove the nut, remove the grub screw holding the pulleys on and then wack the end with a rubber mallet.

As you can see some one has been in before



IMG_1460 by robertsmark895, on Flickr



IMG_1463 by robertsmark895, on Flickr



IMG_1465 by robertsmark895, on Flickr



IMG_1464 by robertsmark895, on Flickr


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## wallace (9 Feb 2015)

I started cleaning some bits up





The bearings look a bit dodgy, the balls aren't very shiny





I put the pulley back on the spindle and stuck it on the lathe


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## stewart (9 Feb 2015)

Great - like many others, I really enjoy watching these magnificent machines being brought back to life with your excellent restoration work.


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## wallace (10 Feb 2015)

I did a little work on the hinged bit that has the motor on, I am struggling to get the hinge pin out of the casting. I have tried penetrating stuff, heat and stilsons with a 4' pole. Any ideas any one?


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## HarryJ (10 Feb 2015)

I too like watching these threads! -perhaps enough to give my DR a go before I get too used to using it as it is! 

Regarding the hinge pin, I'm assuming you would have tried this if possible, but can you get to the underside of it to tap away at it whilst trying to turn it?
Failing that, you could try _fully submerging _the part in penetrating oil for a while and re trying later... 

-Just as a thought, the screw head showing isn't some sort of locking pin is it, preventing the hinge from both turning and removing?!

Harry


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## yetloh (10 Feb 2015)

Can't help I'm afraid but it's good to see you back with another restoration, Mark. Like everyone else, I thoroughly enjoy them.

Jim


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## wallace (12 Feb 2015)

Thanks Jim, I managed to get the hinge pin out. I think the fit is almost an interference fit. I was using plusgas which is normally great for unjamming stuff. I left it soaking for a day more and then heated the casting up and gave the pin a bash. Once it had moved a bit then I new it was coming. I had to knock it alittle one way add more lube then the other. 
I started cleaning some of the bolts up, not surprising they were a bit pitted. This lathe was the 15th out of the factory and dates to about 1936.









To do the collar I put on a turned piece of wood and bring up the tailstock. I had to use a flapper disc in the grinder to get the pits out and then through the grits to 600 before polishing









These are the bolts for the motor and were pretty pitted. I used my disc sander to clean the bolts 





I then finish them off by hand on fine grit glued to mirror





The speed adjuster handle was broken, it must be a weak spot because I've seen loads with the same damage.





I plan on drilling holes on both pieces and inserting some small rod, then V out the edge and welding.


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## n0legs (12 Feb 2015)

wallace":7ft29bps said:


> [/ur
> 
> .





Look at those bits :shock:  
Keep them coming, love it.


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## Woodmonkey (12 Feb 2015)

Incredible, would never believe they were the same parts!


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## Berncarpenter (12 Feb 2015)

Hi Mark
Fantastic work so far those bolts came up great. Interesting to know it was made in 1936 , what colour would it have been when it left the factory? Are you planning to give it an original paint job?


Cheers Bern


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## wallace (15 Feb 2015)

Thanks Bern, when I removed the machine tag it showed its original colour. I will be doing it like all my others, the grey/blue. I took an original piece to a motor factors and they colour chipped. I got 5 litres but I'm nearly out after doing quite a few machines.
I had a go at welding the broken speed changer. I made it nice and hot then used my mig. Afterwards it went into the oven at gas mark 6.
This is part of the speed changer, the flat belt goes through the bars and when moved drags the belt to a different ratio









The tail stock has a few differences to my other RS tailstock









This grub locates into a slot in quill?





It all came to bits really easy


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## condeesteso (15 Feb 2015)

This'll be good, I do like your restore threads, and you can't beat a nice lump of Wadkin.


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## wallace (16 Feb 2015)

Heres the handle all cleaned up





I found some holes in the bed insert, any ideas?


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## andrew h (20 Feb 2015)

well I was so impressed with you work on the first wadkin lathe and the links you sent I have joined.
all best andrew


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## wallace (20 Feb 2015)

Welcome Andrew theres some clever people around here with the woodwork stuff. I'm hopeless so spend more time bringing machines back from the dead then making stuff.


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## wallace (23 Feb 2015)

One piece of advice I must pass on if your welding. Don't just use welding goggles like I did and then have a sunburnt brow and cheeks (homer) . Next one use the full automatic face shield your wife bought you a year ago which is still in its box on the shelf (hammer).
I've been prepping some castings ready for paint, there is a lot of original black filler which I have left and filled any voids with car bodge.
I have sanded a locking handle with a powerfile and then finished of by hand, this is down to 400 I went down to 800 and then buffed





The handwheel is cast and from experience they take a lot of work to look good. The ali ones are really easy. I put in on the lathe and use a flapper disc on a grinder before going through the grits to 800.
It took about 2hrs


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## wallace (27 Feb 2015)

To stop the bits that are not on show from rusting I thought I would try black oxide solution. Which is just an acid which causes black rust.


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## schnapps95 (1 Mar 2015)

hi, Wallace how did you date the lathe? I have one machine no rs585 test no 18559 which looks older than yours. the top of the headstock is curved and the name is cast under the top window, the only other difference I can see is the top pulley which has no grub screws. I have had every nut & bolt to bits on this lathe and also fitted an indexing arrangement and painted it wadkin green. I don't think I am too far away from you in Bd Castle ? keep up the good work regards Stan


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## merlin (1 Mar 2015)

Hello Stan,
I restored mine last year - it is an RS 10, the machine number is RS 579 and the test number is 18327.
I phoned up Daltons and was told that it was manufactured in 1942, yours was probably in the factory at the same time !
Yours sounds like the same with the window and the casting. 
Cheers, Merlin


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## schnapps95 (1 Mar 2015)

Thanks for that Merlin, we have a lot of Wadkin machines but I try to avoid Dalton's as I have never found them very helpful. Back to the lathe, I actually joined the bed of another RS lathe together, we can now turn 10' - 7" by 17" dia. The spare head stock we have fixed a 6' - 9" dia. face plate controlled by an inverter drive. If I can persuade my son to take some photographs and upload them for me you will see what I have done, I am no good at modern technology. regards Stan


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## wallace (1 Mar 2015)

Hi Stan this is the earliest version of the RS I have come across. It does not have a brake or the pin that locks the spindle on the outboard side. To lock the spindle you have to do it through the window. The tailstock is different in a few ways, the motor is different as well. 
A friend has a catalogue dating from 1936 and it is identical to my lathe.





Your lathe is quite early because of the window, depending on which type of machine tag you have you might be able to date yours. If it is a tin tag then you cant get the date, if its a brass cast tag then it has the year on it. If you look at this PK tag the machine serial number, the first 2 digits represent the year of manufacture, so 1955.





So two lathes joined, have you turned anything to its capacity?


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## wallace (2 Mar 2015)

I made some bits shiny


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## skippy75 (3 Mar 2015)

Looking beautiful, lovely to see these old machines restored to better than new


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## wallace (4 Mar 2015)

I some how managed to drop the handle of the banjo and it broke (homer) To fix it I drilled and tapped each bit and then welded









This time I used my new face shield my wife bought me 12 months ago, so no burnt brow. I'm not the best welder but it ground down pretty well with just a couple of pin holes.

I thought I'd strip the motor, I tested it before and it is good.









The pulley support had not been taken off before and it was full of pretty clean grease.





I tried a puller on the pulleys and it moved easily and then stopped when it got to a collar on the shaft, it wouldn't budge so I looked closer.
The collar is pinned through the shaft.


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## MickCheese (4 Mar 2015)

I somehow managed to miss this. Now found and enjoying it.

Mick


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## dickm (4 Mar 2015)

Reassuring to know that someone who does beautiful restorations is nearly as cr*p at welding as I am!


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## n0legs (5 Mar 2015)

dickm":2n120bi0 said:


> Reassuring to know that someone who does beautiful restorations is nearly as cr*p at welding as I am!



A welder told me you don't need to be good with the torch, you need to be good with the grinder :lol:


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## wallace (5 Mar 2015)

I just point and press and hope for the best :lol:


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## wallace (5 Mar 2015)

The motor came to bits pretty easy.





I think this motor was originally an open motor which was adapted to be used for the lathe. The later lathes had an enclosed motor with fins.













Hoffman bearings


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## wallace (14 Mar 2015)

I have been spending a lot of time doing the prep on the castings before giving a coat of zinc primer.









The main headstock is taking a lot of work, it has a lot of dings and the casting are pretty rough





This is how I do the tags, 





After cleaning with a brass wire brush, I sanded and then polished





I then spray with a black paint from a rattle can. It takes a few coats to fill the background


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## VanTheMainMan (14 Mar 2015)

Those tags came out looking very good!!!!


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## wallace (17 Mar 2015)

A little more progress, I primed the headstock





This helps to highlight any imperfections





Then I go round with more bodge





The motor got a coat of black enamel along with some other bits for contrast


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## wallace (18 Mar 2015)

This nice box of electrickery got delivered today, so now the lathe will run from a domestic supply


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## marcros (19 Mar 2015)

wallace":1ziw71i1 said:


> This nice box of electrickery got delivered today, so now the lathe will run from a domestic supply



Are these easy to wire in? I have a 3ph motor on my drill which I need to get one of these for.


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## wallace (19 Mar 2015)

They are really easy just Live Neutral earth in and three wires and earth out. Plug it in and it configures itself to the motor


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## wallace (21 Mar 2015)

I have been doing a lot of painting in the past few days, because I use enamel you can build the coats up quite quickly. By the time I've finished spraying I can go back to the beginning to give another coat. When done I left everything for two days and then went over again.













The bed was is really nice condition with nearly all of its original filler intact. This is the first wadkin I've found which was originally black





It has the number 115 stamped at the end of the bed which corresponds to the machine number on the tag


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## sjalloq (23 Mar 2015)

Don't know if I missed it in other threads, but what kind of paint are you using here? I always thought enamel paints had to be brushed on?

Thanks, loving the restoration threads.


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## wallace (24 Mar 2015)

No enamels can be sprayed, if anything they are easier to spray then other paints. You have to use synthetic thinners. The good thing about enamel is you can spray and handle the part in the same day. I tend to leave bits for a good 24 hrs before handling. The downside to enamel is its quite a brittle finish so it chips quite easily. I've tried coach paint before and the finish is nice but it takes ages to dry properly


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## wallace (24 Mar 2015)

I got the last of the spraying done





I decided to pimp out inside the headstock





I then prepped the lettering on the headstock and motor, I later found out that the green frog tape is not as good as the yellow for this use. When I removed the tape it brought some of the paint with it.









Heres the motor ready all done


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## dickm (24 Mar 2015)

Out of interest, how the heck do you manoeuvre all those lumps of CI around.
(asks the guy just recovering from hernia surgery  )


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## wallace (24 Mar 2015)

Hi Dick to move machines around I have a pallet pump truck, to get into my garden theres a steepish slope so I have to use a block and tackle to drag machines up and down. In the workshop I use the block and tackle from a roof joist to lift heavy stuff. I have made a mistake with the motor on the stool, I built it up and didn't think I would have to lift it down. It must weigh 14stone :shock: 
It used to be amusing when I first started messing with old iron, all I had was a block and tackle and some lengths of timber which I would cover in oil. It was all very egyption with levers and scaffolding tubes to roll on.
This one was fun because it came on a euro pallet missing two blocks, luckily I had the pump truck


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## Berncarpenter (24 Mar 2015)

Looking fantastic , glad you got rid of that awful orange paint of the motor. 

Cheers Bern


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## n0legs (25 Mar 2015)

Oh man!! that is looking sweeeeeeeeettt :lol: 
Labour of love, excellent =D>


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## wallace (25 Mar 2015)

I put the tailstock together, the RS tailstock can be slid sideways for off centre turning.


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## WSG (26 Mar 2015)

this is looking great!


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## wallace (26 Mar 2015)

I managed to get the motor plate and motor fitted.





I got the belt changer assembly put back together and the spindle


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## Berncarpenter (26 Mar 2015)

Looking great Mark , hard to believe its the same machine . Have you found a new home for it yet ? 

Cheers Bern


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## wallace (27 Mar 2015)

Thanks Bern, I've really enjoyed doing this one. I haven't found a home for this yet, so if theirs some one out there wanting a nice little lathe give me a shout  This is going to have quite a nice spec and if anyone wants extras like a sliding tool carriage I might be able to find one. This lathe will certainly beet the pants of anything you can get from axminster.


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## marcros (27 Mar 2015)

Wallace, how do you reattach motor and model plates- do you re-rivet them, and if so how?


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## wallace (27 Mar 2015)

To get the tags off without damaging them I drill the heads off the rivets. Then just drill out the old rivet. You can get new rivets in lots of different sizes. They just tap in
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Generator-Dis ... 566aff31df


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## wallace (27 Mar 2015)

As I mentioned earlier I have been black oxiding some of the parts to help stop future rust. All you do is clean and degrease the part and then stick it in the solution, take it out and use a water dispersant like 3in1 or wd40 and then wax it.

















I needed some brass washers so I marked some squares out with centres





Drilled some holes





Cut the squares out on the bandsaw and then mounted them together on the lathe





Heres a clip of the spinny bit

http://youtu.be/XyTN5r3JnA4

And the finished washers


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## Woodmonkey (27 Mar 2015)

Its a thing of beauty! If my workshop wasn't up some stupidly steep stairs (and i didn't have a perfectly good lathe already) I would be first in the queue!


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## dickm (27 Mar 2015)

Silly question, but who needs a set over tailstock on a WOOD lathe?


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## sjalloq (27 Mar 2015)

What are you using for the black oxidation? Did you buy a kit or you just happened to have the chemicals sitting in the corner of the shed.


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## wallace (27 Mar 2015)

Dick its so you can turn tapers or just for off centre stuff, on my 10" RS it has a handle to wind it. The oxiding solution I used is from here http://www.caswelleurope.co.uk/black-oxide-parkerizing its just a type of acid. Its the first time I've tried it


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## wallace (29 Mar 2015)

I managed to get the bed attached





And made some more brass washers





I'm not very happy how the black turned out on some of the items


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## yetloh (30 Mar 2015)

A joy to behold, Mark

Jim


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## wallace (31 Mar 2015)

Thanks Jim. I'm doing all the little bits now and I'm very nearly finished. 





I have made it so the VFD can be unclipped and moved to the outboard end





















Heres a clip of the lathe running for the first time

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ckvCjD ... drLoCMqmqg


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## wallace (1 Apr 2015)

I made a spanner for the tailstock bolt today, well just chopped an old spanner up


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## yetloh (3 Apr 2015)

Lovely job Mark. Like the spanner and also noticed a nice power feed in the background.

Jim


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## wallace (3 Apr 2015)

Thanks Jim, the power feed came with the EQ spindle moulder. I think it needs some new wheels, its also a pig to set up


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## Adam9453 (3 Apr 2015)

The lathe is looking fantastic, I particularly like the refurbished black and gold plates, very smart


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## Flynnwood (3 Apr 2015)

Frigging brilliant work !!!


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## sapwood (8 Apr 2015)

Thats great work. Where are you in County Durham? I have a machine shop in Seaham Harbour.


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## wallace (8 Apr 2015)

I'm in spennymoor about 6miles from durham city. What kind of stuff do you do?


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## Aden30mm (8 Apr 2015)

What a wonderful transformation, many thanks Mark for sharing this with us.


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## schnapps95 (27 May 2015)

Hi Merlin / Wallace, at long last I have found out how to upload photos, so here are some of the RS for you to enjoy. Showing my indexing arrangement and the router attachment and a special drive and special tail stock pieces, and by the way the large faceplate is 6' 9" diameter, hope they are interest to you, thanks a lot Stan.


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## nathandavies (27 May 2015)

Nice setup, like the router. And that is a man sized face plate


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## merlin (27 May 2015)

Hello Stan,

Looks fantastic - an RS doing what it does best.

The indexing set up looks very good .... would the maker of such a thing be interested in making another?

Merlin


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## wallace (27 May 2015)

That is a mighty fine set up thanks for sharing


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## schnapps95 (27 May 2015)

Hello Merlin
Thanks for your kind words. In answer to your question NO I am the maker and also a septuagenarian who is running out of time in life. A short history of the lathe. it was 8" centre height I lowered the bed on the headstock and had a block cast to raise the tailstock and made a new leg as I was joining two together. the piece of wood in the lathe was actually a tree trunk just for testing the lathe I made a new fitting for the headstock drive and tailstock so it couldn't come out then I made the router bracket (that was easy) but I had to make a dovetailed stop for the cross slide because it kept altering it's self. The indexing plunger I picked up at an auto-jumble and the division wheel with circles of 24,20,9 & 7 holes I made on a Colchester student lathe. I also made a cap to fit the spindle so as to remove the drive centre easily. I also made patterns and had some faceplates cast. PS I don't use the lathe wood turning lathes bl---- frighten me. Cheers Stan


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