# Thoughts on a bathroom window sill



## Boxer (9 Apr 2013)

Hi there

I’m just about to embark on a bathroom overhaul – complete tiling throughout, new floor, new suite, new cabinets etc.

As part of this I am planning to replace a ratty old window-sill with a decent bit of hardwood.
The dimensions of the sill are approx 5’ long by 1’ wide by 1” to 2” thick. This will be sealed with Osmo Polix.

I have access to some nice oak and maple boards which would look good, but I don’t know what to expect regarding any expansion / contraction of the timber in a bathroom environment, so I am just a bit concerned about the new window board popping or cracking the tiles.

So my question is all about whether I need to allow for some type of movement, and if I could use a single solid board 1 foot wide or whether it needs to be narrower ones laminated together to control this. Any thoughts ?

Cheers
Chris


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## Eric The Viking (9 Apr 2013)

I'd always tile it. 

Sorry - not a woodworking answer, but bathrooms are really tough on woodwork, unless you "build in" wood movement. I've been caught out by one of ours - there's a freestanding stud wall for the end of the shower, and it's mosaic-tiled on the other side too (washbasin). It's moving, and the corner that isn't in the shower has cracked. The shower cubicle is OK, but wouldn't be if it hadn't had silicone sealer over the grout in the corner. 

It's not worth the pain IMHO. The expansion would be widthways (narrow dimension of the window board), but there's probably little you can do to control it if it starts. It'll expand in the summer (humid) and shrink in the winter (equally humid in short bursts but dries much faster). Freestanding units are a different matter, as they can be built to accommodate movement.

Sorry, but I wouldn't.

E.


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## Water-Mark (9 Apr 2013)

I'm a bathroom installer and I'd agree with Eric.
if you're tiling the whole room tile the sill, if not i'd use a upvc or plain plaster if it's away from any water.


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## Phil Pascoe (9 Apr 2013)

My first thoughts were to tile. My last one was wood, and it did move - not a lot, but enough not to look good. If you tile, make sure the tiles are bedded down well - they'll be less likely to get cracked. Things do tend to get knocked over.


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## kostello (9 Apr 2013)

On something that wide I'd put some grooves in the under side about 1/2 the depth to reduce the effects of any cupping


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## paulm (9 Apr 2013)

I've tiled (edged with the quarter round plastic beading for a tidy finish) and sometimes used painted mdf window boards, both very effective and can be aesthetically pleasing depending on what you want and how you do it, wouldn't use timber, just not suitable really imho.

Could use granite, marble or corian to tie in with any basin/vanity unit tops if being used elsewhere in the room ?

Cheers, Paul


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## Lons (9 Apr 2013)

I agree with the other guys. 

I'm an installer as well and have used all the methods mentioned apart from granite / corian (which are very suitable). I've also used PVC coverboard - lipped type which is stock down on to existing cill.

The en-suite I'm currently in the middle of is fully tiled including all window reveals and it does look excellent and will be easy to maintain.

Bob


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## jasonB (10 Apr 2013)

I've done a couple of wide ones. I cut some 5mm veneers on the bandsaw, run them through the thicknesser and then veneer onto BOTH sides of some MR MDF. Finally finish with Lacquer. This one which is about 450mm wide has not budged in about 18months. The sink shelf is solid as that can move width wise and there is not a lot of width to most of it.







Though my preference would be to tile or fit stone/solid surface

J


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## Boxer (10 Apr 2013)

Thanks guys

Definately a concensus of advice there, so will have to rethink.

I like the idea of the granite top instead.

Cheers
Chris


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## Doug B (10 Apr 2013)

I agree with Jason here, I've been using Oak in bathrooms for years without problems.
As with most things good preparation is the key, 

Lovely job BTW Jason.


Cheers.


Doug


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