# Moisture Resistant MDF ( green )



## Roberto Flintofski (13 Dec 2020)

Hi all, would really appreciate some advice - I have constructed a work bench / table using a double thickness of green Moisture Resistant MDF with an oak edge banding to it and would like to apply something to both of them so they don't get spoiled ( don't laugh )

I have tried a sample with some wax that our lass uses for her oak chopping boards and its 'ok' but open to more suggestions

Thanks in advance


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## marcros (13 Dec 2020)

what have you got?
the killer may now be that you have now applied the wax and getting something that will go over that is problematic.


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## TheUnicorn (13 Dec 2020)

marcros said:


> what have you got?
> the killer may now be that you have now applied the wax and getting something that will go over that is problematic.


I assumed he'd just done a test on an offcut?


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## Roberto Flintofski (13 Dec 2020)

lol ive done the wax on off cuts .... im fairly daft but not that daft !!!!!!!!


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## marcros (13 Dec 2020)

ah yes, I didn't read it properly!

I would go with a matt, oil based varnish, thinned down so that you can wipe it on nice and thin. I would probably also put some tung or boiled linseed oil in it too, roughly thirds.


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## Roberto Flintofski (13 Dec 2020)

Hi Marcros, no worries at all, can you elaborate on what product / brand - im really new to all this ! I've done an 'OK' job of the bench so dont want to spoil it at this stage


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## MikeK (13 Dec 2020)

I had very good success with hard wax oil on my Valchromat workbench top. The Valchromat is similar to MRMDF, but I don't know where the similarities end. However, I can tell you from experience to follow the instructions carefully, as the oil gave me a bad finish because I waited too long to wipe off the second coat and I had to repeat the final coat.

The hard wax oil is applied and left for ten minutes before wiping off the excess. After 12 hours, apply a second coat and leave it for ten minutes as well. On my workbench top, the first coat was mostly absorbed by the Valchromat and there wasn't much to wipe off. On the second coat, very little was absorbed, which meant there was a lot to wipe off. 

I tried to do the entire 1x2 meter top at one time, and it didn't work out as I planned. By the time I finished applying the second coat, about 20 minutes had elapsed, and the oil started to gel to the point where I couldn't wipe it off smoothly. I waited 24 hours for the oil do dry and lightly sanded the surface with 400 grit in the random orbital sander just to the point where the top was smooth again. Then I applied a coat of the oil in smaller areas and wiped each area off after ten minutes. The finish was great.

I can't recommend a specific brand, since I don't know what is available to you, but I used semi-matte hard wax oil. I wanted matte finish, but the only choices I had were glossy and semi-matte.

Here is what the black Valchromat sample looked like after two coats of the hard wax oil shown. The three sections of the offcut show what the surface looks like after different sanding preparation. The top section was not sanded, the middle section was sanded with 150 grit paper, and the bottom section was sanded with 150, 220, and 400 grit paper before applying the oil. I liked the look and feel of the bottom section, so that is how I prepared my workbench top. The small can in the photo was more than enough to apply three coats of oil to the workbench top, with a little left over.


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## Rorton (13 Dec 2020)

Im a fan of hard wax oil - OSMO PolyX is what I use on most things I make tbh


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## marcros (13 Dec 2020)

well, firstly wait for some other opinions and see what people come up with- you may prefer it. 

I find oil based varnish hard to buy online. You need to look at the tin and find something that tells you to clean the brushes using white spirit. The last lot I got was from wilko but it isnt on their website but may still be available. You dont need much, so just the smallest tin. put in 1 measure of it.

to thin it use turpentine or white spirit. I avoid turps substitute. 1 measure of this. 

boiled linseed or tung oil. I prefer tung for other uses so if I were to buy one I would buy that one. either will do. 1 measure of this.

mix it all together. It isnt an exact quantity, a bit more white spirit makes it soak in a bit more. the others do something else and I cant remember what. When I make it, I dont measure it, just approx equal quantities of each.


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## marcros (13 Dec 2020)

the hard wax oil sounds like less faff tbh, and probably as cheap by the time you have bought the various parts to my suggestion


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## Roberto Flintofski (13 Dec 2020)

Im in no rush .. so all suggestions welcome !! I wanted the Grey Valchromat Board for the top but too expensive for me im afraid !!!


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## billw (14 Dec 2020)

@MikeK is it necessary to sand Valchromat? It feels very smooth to the touch already?


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## MikeK (14 Dec 2020)

billw said:


> @MikeK is it necessary to sand Valchromat? It feels very smooth to the touch already?


Bill,

It does feel smooth to the touch, but I prefer the feel after sanding with P400. The surface of my top had some marks on it from the limited use as a workbench while I was building it. The very light sanding removed all of the marks and left a much smoother surface. The Valchromat does not require a lot of effort to cut or sand.

I recommend testing the sanding with an offcut or the surface of one of the pieces that won't be seen when installed. The hard wax oil I used made the surface more durable, as expected, and I have given the top a bit more abuse lately without any lasting marks.


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## BillK (14 Dec 2020)

I used Ronseal varnish on an MDF router-planer bed, a solvent-based polyurethane. Can't remember the exact name on the tin now. One thin coat on, then sanded lightly, another coat and another very quick light sand for bits of dust etc. It's tough stuff, I used to hot glue pieces to it which come off clean. I imagine pretty much any poly varnish would be the same, the Ronseal was just lurking on a shelf so I used it up.


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## Roberto Flintofski (14 Dec 2020)

This stuff?


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## Cabinetman (14 Dec 2020)

All my benches have ever had is a Quick Flashover with some French polish or sanding sealer, personally I don’t think you want a "finish" on a bench just something to stop it getting marked/dirty, also you do not want a slippery surface which you might get from oil or wax. Ian


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## AJB Temple (14 Dec 2020)

I use Osmo Poly X a lot. I buy 10 litres at a time to get best value. I prefer a matt finish. It is very resilient and you can recoat without any faff. The reason is, I have twice coated the insides and all oak exterior parts of cabinets in a very large kitchen build and am working my way through 22 large drawer boxes (1200 by 580 by 280 for example) and quite a few shelves. This is such fun that I have trained my wife to help. 

For best results I apply it with a fairly large paint pad (with decorators handle) and apply VERY thinly. You can coat an area 1m by 2m in this way in two or three minutes. (That happens to be the size of my temporary mahogany dining table.) Then wipe off. I do this by putting lint free cloths over a clean paint pad so that I get an even sweep. 

Mike is spot on that de-nibbing with very fine grit or mesh on a ROS with extraction on, will give a super smooth result. I do a quick wipe down before each coat with a lint free cloth barely moistened with white spirit. This guarantees dust free. But I am doing a kitchen not a workbench. 

Adrian


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## Roberto Flintofski (14 Dec 2020)

Cabinetman said:


> All my benches have ever had is a Quick Flashover with some French polish or sanding sealer, personally I don’t think you want a "finish" on a bench just something to stop it getting marked/dirty, also you do not want a slippery surface which you might get from oil or wax. Ian




Tbh, its it getting dirty that makes me scared !!! Lol


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## Roberto Flintofski (14 Dec 2020)

Taken the plunge and bought that Osmo stuff ! have used it on my daughters oak internal doors and it has stood the test of time well , also bought a Cabinet Scraper as I have a couple of high areas on the oak surround and I have no plane ! will post some photos of the bench thingy on the projects over the weekend .. its work in progress though !


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