# Garden Gate - oak (work in progress...)



## EdK (1 Jun 2014)

Started making a garden gate from scrap oak:







The top is through tenon/morticed.
Made the mortice with a Domino XL with the 14mm bit and then squared up the ends - also I increased the width to about 16mm.
Hand cut the two tenons in the top rail

Messed up the planing of one of the stiles (after work job...) so instead of planning is square I took a bit off one of the shoulders of the rail tenon... probably a silly idea but didn't want to run the P/T on a sunday (neighbours).

Planning on fitting one or possibly two more rails on the reverse once the boards are in.
Going to house the boards in a groove in the top rail and in a groove in the stiles.

As you can see the 'boards' will be made of more scrap oak!
None of it is wide.... ranges from 95mm to 45mm with most being in the 45mm range.
Boards range from 20mm to 35mm in thickness.

Questions:

1 - what is a good thickness of board ? 20mm?
2 - what is a good groove depth for the boards? 10mm depth?
3 - what is a good offset from the face before you make the groove? 
I have 48mm width, so could go 5mm(edge) + 20mm(board) + 23mm(rails) = 48mm 
4 - should I 
A: just plane all boards down to 20mm thick and just square them up to have random width boarding without any T&G (5mm gap between square boards)
B : plane boards to 20mm thick then join them to try and get maybe 75mm boards, then T&G them all....

Thanks for any input!
Ed


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## RobinBHM (1 Jun 2014)

20mm thick is fine

10mm groove depth might be a bit much, 8mm is enough if it needs grooving at all.

I would do random width, chamfer and leave gap between boards. The disadvantage of narrow boards is there is little space to double screw to the rails which helps to stop the gate dropping over time. A notched in brace might be worth it. 

The bottom rail is best as a narrow rail with the boarding running to the bottom of the door.

I would put an angle of 20 degrees or more on the tops of the mid and bottom rail to shed water. Bracing is a bit more tricky though.

If the boards are kiln dried they will be too dry for a gate, ideally condition them first.


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## EdK (22 Jun 2014)

Found a little time this weekend:













The frame worked out ok - a couple of gaps but that's because I set the planer/thickenesser up wrong I think... get it right next time 
Anyway, added a few lambs tongues just cause I like them.
The back frame horizontals are square joinery with a 5 degree chamfer on to allow water to run off.
Have draw bored the frame.
There is a 7mm deep groove in the head rail which the vertical slats fit in to (slight rebate on the top of each slat).

I haven't fitted the slats yet.

# What is the best way to attach the slats?
I've done some reading and it seems like you can nail in from the slat face side in the centre of each slat with stainless steel nails. Or use s/s screws and possible cap with plugs.

I was thinking of a diagonal nail in the top of each slat into the head rail and then nail through the slat face into the braces behind. Good or bad???

# What is an advisable finish for this gate?
This old chestnut... from reading around you either :
A - don't use any finish and the gate will silver over time and move like a Brazilian samba dancer between seasons.
B - use one coat of Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus light oak stain followed by 3 coats of Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus (light oak) [i.e -> external-iroko-osmo-uv-oil-or-sikkens-cetolfilter-7-plus-t59500.html]

# What fittings to use?
I was looking at two hinges like this -> http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/prod ... sed/570883
But am not sure if it will be a problem with the metal reacting with the oak....

Any advice very much appreciated 
Thanks,
Ed


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## EdK (24 Jun 2014)

Was thinking of using Spax stainless steel facade screws : http://www.spax.com/uk/handymen/screw-f ... cade-screw

Probably just a single one in the centre at points where the slat will hit the brace behind.

Good idea ? Bad idea?


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## Bradshaw Joinery (24 Jun 2014)

Id go with stainless pins through a brad nailer, ive found stainless screws tend to snap with movement on oak boarding Unless you go bit witht hem 5mm+. Pins can bend alot easier. Put them in in a diamond pattern, angling the two outside ones outwards, and the middle one straight in. 

These are what i use, they are ridiculously cheap!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221057555106? ... 1423.l2649


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## EdK (1 Nov 2014)

The gate has been in for a short while:











Went with one coat of Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus light oak stain followed by 3 coats of Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus (light oak) for the finish.

Pretty happy with it, has some good heft to it when you open and close it and feels solid - hoping that the finish will last 3 years before I need to do anything but is windy and near the sea here so will see what happens.

Just need to mow the path and tidy the filthy patio now... never ends 

(Oh and add some top caps to the posts...)


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