# Lee J's new workbench build



## Lee J (30 Jul 2009)

Well your in for a treat now folks, well when I say a treat what I mean is a ruddy good laugh :lol: 

I decided to convert my single integral garage into my wood workshop. So I started collecting bits of kit and tools and timber ready to make a go of it. But first I need a workbench. Needs to be solid and reliable but I'm not too bothered about it cosmetically looking like a £1000 bench. 

Disclaimer : 

1. Please be aware this workbench will be made COMPLETELY from reclaimed timber. It will have a ply top but this is only so I can replace it easily when it gets butchered.
So the quality of the finish will not be intended on been super smooth with lovely varnishing etc etc. It's gonna be built to be used. I dont want to be scared to scratch it.

2. Some of my methods for doing things may not be the 'correct' method but it worked for me at the time. Sometimes I probably use the wrong tool for the job and you'll all jump up and say "I wouldn't of done it like that!". I would however appreciate some input into how I could of done something differently.

Anyway, enough waffling and justifying what your about to witness...

On with the job!!

This is my 'sketchup' design...







This is the space I have allocated for my bench...






and this is my reclaimed timber, for the legs and bracing, 4"x4" posts ...






and for my top, reclaimed scaffold planks...






* First job - pot of tea to weigh up the job *

So cos these are reclaimed timbers they're very rough finished on the faces and some of them have defeats in, like splitting on the posts and slight warps but I intend to square them up a bit and planed the faces smooth. 

So on with the posts/legs. Needed to square them up a bit and remove the slight twists/warping. I don't own a thicknesser as yet so I decided to knock together a jig so I could use the router as a thicknesser...

Took some flat boards and routed a rebate on one side...






Cut some MDF sides and glued/pined into place at 90 degrees to the boards...






Next 4 picture shows me smoothing out a leg. I cut the legs to size then mounted them into my jig. 

"But wait! this wont square them up cos you've got them resting on an uneven side!" - I realise this but remember this is supposed to be a rustic looking bench so I'm not too concerned.





















This was a looooong process. Took me ages but eventually I got each leg to a thickness off 90mm x 90mm. I finished them off with the hand held power sander. 

I also did the top bracing to as this is to be made out of the same timber...






I took the opportunity to put a round over on all the edges.

End of day


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## Lee J (30 Jul 2009)

Here we go again... 

*Pot of tea*

The splitting I was mentioning on the legs isn't to serious really. The timber has been stood in my workshop :lol: for the last 4 months so 1 or 2 slight cracks have appeared. Nothing to worrying.

so, on with todays job. I intend to cut some rebates out of the tops of the legs to take the bracing peices. I'm not sure of what this type of joint is called but it seems to be a good idea...

I cut the legs at the top using a hand saw...











see, jobs a gud 'un...











Next up was to make some long bracing peices (not sure of the name for these). These will go from the left leg to the right leg and will be morticed straight through the legs and then glued up. I will make a home made dowel to put all the way through to make this a stronger joint.

I took a scaffold plank...






and planed it smooth and as flat as I could using the hand held planer...






I carefully calculated the tenon size, measured and cut the tenons by hand, using a tenon saw...






...on both ends...






finished them off (tidied them up I mean) with a chisel...






I decided at this point I would not be morticing by hand. So I nipped on line and ordered me one of these...






I sat and waited it's arrivel...


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## Lee J (30 Jul 2009)

Morning all... kettles on!

Morticer arrived nice and early. Took me 2 hours to degrease it and build it but ee-by-gum it was worth it. Had an issue with it sticking and jamming but after Olly had given my a tip in the right direction (thanks Olly!) I had it mastered and rattled through the mortices...

thought I'd knock one together to see...






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ADVICE REQUIRED: should they be nice and tight or a bit slack?
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Seems now I'm at the point where I can assemble this bench frame on a 'dry run' ... 

Well wont ya look at that...






Look, you can see the tenons...






So it's now onto the shorter braces. These don't need to be as robust and heavy duty as the others so a couple of offcuts of 3x2 should see it done. I cut them to size, then cut them again as I forgot to take into account the tenon (schoolboy error or hangover?). 

Here I am using my mortice/tenon measuring device...






Once I had these done I could drill out the mortices to receive them... 

there's one... right there... look...






Time to start seriously considering assembling this bench now. So I used some Titebond and fixed the short bracing in place, clamped up and left it over night...


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## Lee J (30 Jul 2009)

So here I am today, gonna turn my own dowels on my Record Coronet lathe...

Took some offcuts, mounted them on the lathe...






and using all my concentration turned it down to this 19mm dowel...






chopped them up into 92mm lengths...






tonight I will plane the top down and might even get it glued up...






more to follow tomorrow...


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## head clansman (30 Jul 2009)

hi lee j 


your doing OK , so who's laughing , most start like you are now , i did many years ago, good luck keep the pics coming .hc


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## The Shark (30 Jul 2009)

Hi Lee J,
I'm not laughing, looks like you are improvising well, and coming up with a good end result.
Thanks for taking the time to document your project, I look forward to seeing the end result.
Keep it coming!!

Malc


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## OPJ (30 Jul 2009)

This is looking good, Lee.  I like the fact that you're using reclaimed materials and you shouldn't have any trouble with 4in. square legs! :wink: I agree that your braces (on the ends) don't need to be too substantial. They are, however, essential; in any size or form, to prevent racking.

Your thicknessing jig looks like a pretty good idea. Next time, adding some wedges or 'packing' below the bottom face to keep it still as you rout away a reference face above. I think you should also consider adding a second pair of rails outside - otherwise, you run the risk of routing them away when they're supposed to be supporting your router's base... Or, just buy a thicknesser!! 

Look forward to seeing more progress. Have you got your vices sorted yet?


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## Lee J (31 Jul 2009)

hey, thanks folks for the encouraging words.

Olly, I have a vice all ready to fit to this new bench. I need to spend some time working out where and how to fit it, but I should be ok i reckon. 

I am going to fit a rail to each of the long braces and pop a shelf in that space, to hold hand held power tools.


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## PowerTool (31 Jul 2009)

Great post to follow - well written,interesting ideas and excellent photos.

Thanks for sharing  

Andrew


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## Lee J (31 Jul 2009)

thanks mate, nice to know 

now what do you mean by 'interesting' ideas? hmmmm :lol: 

only kidding with ya.


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## Benchwayze (31 Jul 2009)

You're doing well. 
Don't knock yourself! 

Leave that to everyone else, and then take no notice!

John


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## Lee J (31 Jul 2009)

:shock: how bizzare...

my drill chuck has just fallen off?? On my pillar drill the actual chuck has fallen of but it's left the tapered shaft in the drill?? 

what do I do with that then?


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## CroppyBoy1798 (31 Jul 2009)

Looking good alright! Look forward to seeing the finished article!

As for the chuck, just push it back up the tapered shaft. Its not one of those Aldi bench mounted ones is it? I have one and the chuck dropped off a couple of times. Just push it back up, set the table right up under it, and force the chuck down onto the table with the lowering arm.


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## wizer (31 Jul 2009)

Yes what brand is the drill? It sounds like your saying the morse taper bit is still in the shaft? i.e the male is still in the female?


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## Lee J (31 Jul 2009)

it's an Nu-tool i think. it jut wont stay on longer than 20 seconds


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## dexter (31 Jul 2009)

Nothing wrong with that build. It`ll do what you want of it and last you years.

Dex


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## Benchwayze (31 Jul 2009)

Ooops.. wrong thread...


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## Benchwayze (31 Jul 2009)

Lee J":2zrk1jnt said:


> :shock: how bizzare...
> 
> my drill chuck has just fallen off?? On my pillar drill the actual chuck has fallen of but it's left the tapered shaft in the drill??
> 
> what do I do with that then?



Lee:

I had a similar problem with the tail-stock chuck on my lathe. Dismounting the chuck, I was left with the taper in the 'ole!

Got me a new Jacobs chuck, problem solved.

John


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## DaveL (2 Aug 2009)

Lee J":2vemh093 said:


> :shock: how bizzare...
> 
> my drill chuck has just fallen off?? On my pillar drill the actual chuck has fallen of but it's left the tapered shaft in the drill??
> 
> what do I do with that then?


The chuck was only held on using friction, this quite common and does work well.
You need to clean both parts of the joint with something, I would use meths and then reassemble, with lots of pressure. When this happened to my drill press, I wound the jaws of the chuck inside the body and placed a wooden block on the table, with just enough clearance to get the chuck back on the taper. I then lent on the handle very hard and the chuck stayed in place, on the second try. :roll:


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## Lee J (4 Aug 2009)

ok folks, ready for a small installment? well, get yersens a brew - always the first job. 

I decide while I have an hour or so spare I would tackle the shelf that will be located on the inside of the long braces. This shelf will be used for general storage but I dont want it going the full length. I though it would be a good idea to leave a gap so I can stand taller objects on the floor. 

So I found some off-cuts of 45mm x 45mm pine I had left over from another job (recycled I think is the correct word). Remember, this bench is to be made from reclaimed timber!! 

I cut them to length, put them in place and drilled the holes for the 4 screws. I'm using some screws I had left over too. These are good for wood as the thread is quite wide. I smeared Titebond on the face and screwed the baton into place. 






I repeated this for the other side too. Here's them both in place...






...and a close up...






I cut a length of 'reclaimed' :lol: floor board into 4 peices to make the base of my shelf. These will be planed then fixed across the batons. 

So I was kicking my heels a bit waiting to go out but this gave me some valuable time to do some small prep jobs. I decided I would fix the large 4" x 4" braces that run from front to back to the legs using long screws then cap the heads off with wooden plugs.
This give me chance to use my new set of plug cutters. 






and here they are...






that one thats on it's side couldn't stand up, bit like myself late on Saturday night :lol: 

Next up, there was just time to line the timber up for the bench top and cut some biscuit slots. This will add strength to my bench top and also aid alignment. 

here's some slots...











Final assembly should be tonight, all been well.


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## Lee J (5 Aug 2009)

I decided it was time to put this thing together once and for all. 

Pegs through the large mortices

I used a long drill bit to put a pilot hole all the way through the mortice then using my 20mm spade bit I carefully drilled the holes all the way through.







I then took my home made 20mm dowel (which I turned earlier) and popped it through - perfect fit.






Capping the screw holes

Took my homemade plugs, smeared on some Titebond and pushed them in the holes. I'll flush cut them next time when they've set properly.






Bench top

Final job for tonight is to glue the bench top up. I previousley cut biscuit slots along all edges so it really wwas a case of just glue up, push together, clamp up and leave it.






Next visit should be a sanding session. I'll probably sand down all the legs etc then attach and plane the top, ready for my cap. 

Shall I use 15mm MDF of 15mm birch plywood for the top?


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## OPJ (5 Aug 2009)

If you can afford birch ply then, by all means, go for it. MDF won't give you as durable a surface to work on and it doesn't like to get wet (unless it's the moisture resistant grade?).


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## Lee J (5 Aug 2009)

I would prefer birch ply really. This will be the only part of my bench that isn't reclaimed. 

How would you recommend I attach the ply top to the wood top?


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## Barkie (5 Aug 2009)

Hi Lee,

Nice project you've got going there with your bench.

I did a bench refurb a few years ago, and put a thick weatherproof mdf sheet onto the wooden top and glued/screwed/plugged it into place. It has one huge problem though, that I just didn't think about. It's not exactly flat and there's no easy way to get it flat now.

When I made an end table, it stood really nicely in one position when glued up, but then ended up out of square because of the ups and downs of the bench.

Depending on the type of work you do, I might consider what Norm Abram did with his workbench in series 1 or 2 - he put a sacrificial board on top (hardboard I think) which he can replace every few years. The solid boards underneath, jointed together, provide the real surface and can be planed/flattened if they ever get out of true.

Cheers,

Lee


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## Tony Spear (8 Aug 2009)

Lee J":1b0uh9zz said:


> Pegs through the large mortices
> 
> I used a long drill bit to put a pilot hole all the way through the mortice then using my 20mm spade bit I carefully drilled the holes all the way through.
> 
> I then took my home made 20mm dowel (which I turned earlier) and popped it through - perfect fit.



A little tip I learned years ago from the village carpenter where I used to live (when there were such animiles!).

When making pegged mortice and tenon joints, drill through the mortices first, then carefully mark the position for the holes in the tenons a tiny fraction closer to the cheeks and drill them separately. Taper the end of the peg, assemble the joint and drive the peg home. The slight displacement between the holes in the mortice and the tenon causes the joint to "pull up" nice and tight. It's an old technique I know, but it really can make a difference. I've got a "refectory" style bench seat I made many, many years ago using this method which was assembled without any glue at all and it's still as solid as a rock!


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## Lee J (10 Aug 2009)

Tony Spear":110pcayh said:


> Lee J":110pcayh said:
> 
> 
> > Pegs through the large mortices
> ...




Nice tip! many thanks for that, bit late now but it's one I'll remember for the future


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## Lee J (10 Aug 2009)

Saturday found me in the workshop trying to get this bench finished. I was up and at it early, 2 slices of toast with half an inch of marmalade on each one and a potta strong tea and I was ready to fight the world. 

I started by putting some detailing on the long braces. Used my angled router cutter and did this...






Fit the shelves using me nail gun...











Notice the cracking in the left front leg? Well this really doesn't bother me. It was set out from the start that this would be a 'rustic' bench that was made to be functional rather than looking nice.

Next job was a mammoth task. Because of me not having a thicknesser, when I glued up the bench top I ended up with a top that was not very flat. so, armed with electric planer (to start with) I proceeded to spend the next 2 hours fannying around planing the hell out of it. After a while I had got the one side resonably flat. Close enough considering I'd be capping this with 15mm MDF. 

I spun it over and did the same with the other face.

Well wont you look at that...






Starting to look like a bench now. The metheod for fixing the top to the frame was an easy one to work out. as it was gonna be capped I just used screws. 3 down one side, 3 down the other. 
Noticed my counter sink bit was leaving some raggy bits? what causes this then? not sharp enough?






Just as I got it screwed together I had a site inspection. 






With everything looking puuuuuuurfect (sorry!) I was given the all clear to proceed.
I'd decided to put a pelmet type effort across the back. This would stop shavings dropping down the back onto the floor, add some extra stability using the wall and allow me to drill some hole along the top edge to stand useful stuff like me pencils etc, you know, things that get buried and lost...






chamfoured the edge...






I seem to be having a problem with blunt tools today. Looks like my angle cutting router bit may be a touch blunt now.






Doesn't matter, just makes the final sand down harder than it should be.

Starting to look like I can see the end of this project very soon...






I got my 15mm MDF cut to size and my front pelmet prepared and cut to size. But before I fit either of these I need to fit my vice. 

Lined it up and marked it out. It's going as far left as I can get it. I fit the top of center so I had a larger overhang on the left side. Using a wood drill bit I took out most of the waste wood and squared it all up using a sharp chisel. This gave me a rebate for the vice to drop into. I had to make a a block to go inbetween the vice and bench. This is what I came up with...











Cant mount the vice today though as I don't have my bolts yet. should get them Monday and fit the vice Monday evening, until then...

... Cheers


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## eggflan (10 Aug 2009)

Im sure i recognise that vice :wink: :wink: :lol: 

Nice bench Lee , looks like it will take a lot of abuse , well done ..


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## Lee J (10 Aug 2009)

hey up, I finally got around to fitting this vice mate - when was it I bought it off you? about a year ago? lol

got any bolts for it??

lol


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## eggflan (10 Aug 2009)

Hi yes it must have been nearly a year ago :lol: 

I will have a look tonight for the bolts that came off it , im sure it was fitted with large coach bolts and i think i still have them in a draw uner my bench , if i find them i will let you know and throw them in the mail to you :wink:


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## Lee J (10 Aug 2009)

it's ok mate I was only kidding. I've raided the fabrication dept at work and got some bolts. 

thanks anyway.


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## OPJ (10 Aug 2009)

Looking good, Lee. 

That 'ragged' hole you've drilled can be something of a common feature when working with softwood. Either that or, your bit may be blunt, as you suggest...

What make is your 45° router cutter? Again, a cheap one would be more likely to blunt quickly. Burning is often caused by using too slow a feed rate.


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## Lee J (11 Aug 2009)

Hi Olly, router bit is the one that came with me Macallister router so it'll be a cheap one. I'm on the look out for a decent set for my next project.

Anyway, update coming up...


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## Lee J (11 Aug 2009)

Had an hour last night so I went to fit the vice. 

I'd already chiseled out the recess so I lined up the vice and drilled the bolt holes using a 10mm bit...






The recess looks a bit wobbly I know but it wasn't to critical as it's gonna be covered up anyhow.

I widened the holes slightly to take the bolt head/washer to 20mm.

I offered the vice into position and tightened the bolts...











tonight I fit the pelmetand make the small section for the vice jaw, then I can fit the 15mm MDF top and do a final sand down. I'll probably wax the frame just to give it some protection.


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## Tierney (11 Aug 2009)

This thread is great, a no nonsense approach to bench building.

DT


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## eggflan (11 Aug 2009)

Tierney":1r86dtxu said:


> This thread is great, a no nonsense approach to bench building.
> 
> DT




Got to agree with that , goes to show that not every bench and build on here is made with some exotic timber that most of us could not afford , i like it Lee and also the approach to making it 8)


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## milkman (12 Aug 2009)

> A little tip I learned years ago from the village carpenter where I used to live (when there were such animiles!).
> 
> When making pegged mortice and tenon joints, drill through the mortices first, then carefully mark the position for the holes in the tenons a tiny fraction closer to the cheeks and drill them separately. Taper the end of the peg, assemble the joint and drive the peg home. The slight displacement between the holes in the mortice and the tenon causes the joint to "pull up" nice and tight. It's an old technique I know, but it really can make a difference. I've got a "refectory" style bench seat I made many, many years ago using this method which was assembled without any glue at all and it's still as solid as a rock!



You can also achieve a 'draw peg' (draw bore?) by clamping the joint up really tight then drilling, then pegging. If you were to relax the clamps before pegging you would see that the peg holes were out of alignment in the same way as hand drilled draw peg. 
Also you're less likely to over draw the peg holes as you can only clamp the joint as tight as the material will allow… ish


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## Paul Chapman (12 Aug 2009)

Theory and demo of drawboring on the Lie Nielsen channel here http://www.youtube.com/user/LieNielsen# ... AkWMHDKB-E and here http://www.youtube.com/user/LieNielsen# ... G1jNQzwvQ8

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## Tony Spear (13 Aug 2009)

Leee,

I've been following this with a great deal of interest.

It's great to see somebody making a basic, workmanlike bench, particularly from recycled materials.

Your "squaring & thicknessing" jig is a classic example of what _*can*_ be achieved with some fairly basic tools and a bit of ingenuity.

One thing however has puzzled me right from the start:

You obviously intended from the beginning to use mortice and tenon joints on the lower part of the frame, so why did you go for a simple 90 degree lap joint at the top when it would appear logical to have used mortice and tenon joints here also?

_*Not a criticism*_ (as I said I think you're doing a great job) I'm just curious.

PS: are you going to drill the right hand leg to allow you to insert supporting pegs for long workpieces, or even bung a holdfast on it??


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## Tony Spear (13 Aug 2009)

AND: 

Don't forget to put some holes through the top for bench dogs and/or holdfasts! 8)


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## Lee J (15 Aug 2009)

hey up tony

I opt for the kinda half lap type joint at the top cos of 2 reasons. 

1. i figured it would be more up to taking downward force like this rather than a mortice
2. I didnt fancy chopping a tenon from a 4" x 4" peice of timber as I dont own a table saw

I will drill some holes today for my bench dogs :wink: 

updated and finished photos will be on here monday


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## Tony Spear (15 Aug 2009)

Lee J":2ecyir0j said:


> 2. I didnt fancy chopping a tenon from a 4" x 4" peice of timber as I dont own a table saw



Chicken! :lol: :lol: 

Looking forward to seeing the finished article.


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## Alex (15 Aug 2009)

Nice bench Lee  I'm a big fan of recycling special as free!I like the way you've rebated the vice back jaw to be below and flush with the front apron. I didn't and wish i had.


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## Lee J (17 Aug 2009)

Offered up the front pelmet and tightened the vice up to hold it in place. 
Drilled through and screwed the pelmet into place. I made myself some dowels to cover the screw heads up. 







I fit the 15mm MDF top at this time too. Screwed down and capped off...











Made a piece to go on the vice jaw that opens, made from the reclaimed timber. 











Sanded down and waxed the bench, except the top, i've left that naked

and that my chums is the job finished. 

Remember I made this from reclaimed timber and other bits I found in skips or blagged from various people. 

Here's some more pictures and a cost list


























Cost List for Workbench

8x Scaffolding planks £ reclaimed 
4x 4"x4" posts £ reclaimed
15mm MDF top £5
2nd hand bench vice £10
4x 4" bolts for vice £ blagged from work
2x timber for short braces £ reclaimed

hope you've enjoyed this. Like I first stated, some of my methods may not be text book but hey they worked out for me. 

Job goal : build a sturdy workbench from reclaimed timbers 

MISSION COMPLETE


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## eggflan (17 Aug 2009)

Looks the doggys hanging parts to me :wink: 

Great build and equally good thread well done Lee , now whats next :lol: :lol:


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## xy mosian (17 Aug 2009)

Well done Lee, great approach, great job.
Now use it 

xy


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## OPJ (17 Aug 2009)

Very well done, Lee. Now, I look forward to seeing some projects coming out of your workshop!


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## Tony Spear (17 Aug 2009)

Excellent - a fine job Lee!

Particularly as it only cost you 15 quid! =D>


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## Benchwayze (19 Aug 2009)

Nice job Lee. Well done.
And your first job on the new bench?

Well, we know you'll use it!
Wise choice on the builders scaffolding planks. Industry standards say they have to be best quality softwood for obvious reasons. 

Voilà!


One bench
John


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