# Where to get 12" polishing wheels?



## davy_owen_88 (18 Oct 2006)

Hi all, I'm looking for some 12" polishing wheels that with the help of an old bench grinder can be turned into a decent polishing machine.

I'm looking for something like this. The problem is I don't want to order from America again, due to the cost of shipping ( £18 ) not to mention the VAT and customs duty ontop.

So does anyone have any idea where to get 12" or over polishing wheels in the UK that are suitable for polishing a guitar finish (nitrocellulose lacquer).

Thanks in advance,
Davy


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## Roger (18 Oct 2006)

Try this place: ToolPost


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## davy_owen_88 (18 Oct 2006)

Thanks for the link, I just checked out that site but unfortunately the largest wheel they do is 8 inches and that is part of a kit.  

I really want a 12 inch wheel at least - anything less will just cause problems when I come to the cutouts.


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## Scrit (19 Oct 2006)

Hi Davy

Try Lippert-Unipol in Birmingham, a specialist polishing supplies firm:

LIPPERT-UNIPOL (UK) LTD.
Argyle Works
Great Barr Street
Bordesley
Birmingham 
B9 4BB

Tel: 0121 224 4500 

They certainly do 10in stitched mops ex-stock so possibly a source of 12in ones. BTW if you are using a 2850rpm grinder with a 300mm mop that translates to about 45m/sec. I've seen brass polished at that sort of speed but you have to be careful to introduce the work from below the wheel to avoid it being ripped out of your hands - so go carefully.

Scrit


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## davy_owen_88 (19 Oct 2006)

Cheers Scrit, I will drop them an email now.

I intend to slow the speed down to about 800-900rpm to avoid buffing through the finish and causing scorch marks, I just need to think of the best way of doing this.

Thanks again,
Davy


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## andrewm (19 Oct 2006)

davy_owen_88":2rhml6a8 said:


> Cheers Scrit, I will drop them an email now.
> 
> I intend to slow the speed down to about 800-900rpm to avoid buffing through the finish and causing scorch marks, I just need to think of the best way of doing this.



What's the advantage of using a larger mop at a slower speed compared with a smaller mop (which is easier to source) at the standard speed of the machine?

Andrew


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## Scrit (19 Oct 2006)

andrewm":3sa01pkd said:


> What's the advantage of using a larger mop at a slower speed compared with a smaller mop (which is easier to source) at the standard speed of the machine?


If you are using abrasives or polishes a larger mop will carry a larger load which means less interuptions to the flow of work. Conversely it requires more power to drive it. Not saying thet're the only reasons for going bigger, but if you're doing volume/quantity it can make a difference.



davy_owen_88":3sa01pkd said:


> I intend to slow the speed down to about 800-900rpm to avoid buffing through the finish and causing scorch marks, I just need to think of the best way of doing this.


That was one of the joys of the old-fashioned belt driven mandrels - you could always get a different speed by just replacing a pulley with one of a different size. With induction motors you need a frequency ir VFD, don't you?

Scrit


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## davy_owen_88 (19 Oct 2006)

andrewm":35vcu8lv said:


> What's the advantage of using a larger mop at a slower speed compared with a smaller mop (which is easier to source) at the standard speed of the machine?



Consider the shape of a guitar body - with a small wheel getting into the upper and lower horn contours without hitting the arbor is going to be tricky. Yes I suppose I'm being lazy and could just be much slower and more careful but when 12" mops are available why compromise? Also the larger mops are wider giving more surface area and less chance of buffing through the finish.

And as scrit also mentioned, the ability to carry a larger load of compound means less stopping and starting giving a better overall finish.


Scrit, I do intend to source a belt driven arbor something like this:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishi...buffers/1/Buffing_Arbor/Pictures.html#details

I also have an old draper bandsaw which I believe rotates slower than my old grinder so I might just rip that apart instead.


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## Scrit (19 Oct 2006)

davy_owen_88":1jrwbku1 said:


> I do intend to source a belt driven arbor something like this:
> http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishi...buffers/1/Buffing_Arbor/Pictures.html#details
> 
> I also have an old draper bandsaw which I believe rotates slower than my old grinder so I might just rip that apart instead.


Did you know that Picador still exist? And that they still do stuff like pulleys, speedshafts (mandrels), motor bases, etc? So for that matter do Simbles although they don't seem to do half the stuff they used to (still sell the Zenith arbor noses, though). All you'd need to get the 800 or 900 rpm speed is about a 3:1 pulley ratio which is fairly straightforward

BTW that site has some stuff that I would have killed for (well almost) at one time - like the fret position calculator. Ace!

Scrit


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## engineer one (21 Oct 2006)

although you have more torque at slower speed, it will be more
controllable with the larger wheel.

the smaller wheel will be less easy to control at higher speed.

if you want to understand the torque, try using a tormek for the 
first time, really surprising.

paul :wink:


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