# MYFORD, ML1,2,3, OR 4?



## blackrodd (30 Nov 2014)

For a project, I am thinking of getting a Myford ml,1,2,3,or,4, I'm not exactly sure which one it is!, can anyone please give an opinion as to a reasonable price
The main difference seems to be if the saddle and apron are cast as 1 piece and the turning length of either 15" or 24", I read on Google.
I looked at This myford yesterday, and I am sure the saddle and apron are not cast in 1 piece, and has 24" between centres, which probably makes it a ML2, or ML4, I believe, I'll go back and have another look.
I don't think The write up supplied from Google was not too good on any of these 
The lathe has a Supplied by TYZAC brass plate below the headstock and MYFORD cast in the front 
This is offered by a friend of mine whom used it mainly to turn small stuff, like replacement brass bushes on the butterfly of Briggs & Stratton carbs,etc, so it can be pretty accurate.
The lucky Dog bought a Myford ML7R last week, cheap from the burser at one of our local college's, so this is up for grabs.
The lathe is motorised, and all working, every thing seems tight and snuggy without signs of wear.
It has 1x 3 jawchuck and a couple of cutters There are no backwheels for the auto feed and screw cutting.
I have been looking at EMCO etc but none seem as well made as the MYFORD.
Any help gratefully received. TIA Rodders


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## niagra (30 Nov 2014)

http://www.lathes.co.uk/myford/index.html

Check this great site out. I have an ML10 and it's great!

I bought it from this guy:

http://myford-lathes.com/used.htm

Dario


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## dickm (30 Nov 2014)

Really depends how soon you want to be doing lots of things. It sounds as if the lathe itself is probably little worn, so should be accurate, but without the changewheels, you are going to be restricted to plain turning, no screwcutting. Having said that, there's an awful lot you can do on one; my first useable metal lathe was a cheap copy of the ML2, and it rebuilt an old Villiers 2-stroke plus various other jobs. ML7s, S7s and ML10s are probably easier to use, but may well be much more worn and actually more frustrating than an older model whose history you know. 
In the end, it's your call!


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## wizard (30 Nov 2014)

I have had all sorts of lathes and the best small lathe is a boxford or southbend


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## DTR (30 Nov 2014)

I have a ML4 and it's my pride and joy. The ML1 and ML2 had a centre height of 3 1/8" while the 3 and 4 had a centre height of 3 1/2". The 2 and 4 were the higher spec'd models but the specs were changing continuously throughout the production. 

There are a lot of accessories made for the ML7 which will fit a ML3 or 4. These include the changewheels and studs for screw cutting (the wheels might need some slight modification but nothing drastic). 

I paid about £300 for mine I think, and that came with most of the accessories I could ever need. I probably paid a bit too much but I'm happy with it, I certainly don't regret it. There's some photos of it in action here >> https://gracesilverwood.wordpress.com/d ... ving-vice/


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## dickm (1 Dec 2014)

I think my cheap ML2 copy was £15..................... :evil:


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## blackrodd (2 Dec 2014)

Many thanks for the replies, Some good information, there.
I've been following the Emco Unimat range on flea bay over the last couple of days, have to say they don't look as well built as the myfords, but I guess that 20, or more years ago when they were new, there was a fair difference in price!
And yet, Modellers have been using them for years, so they must be pretty good, I expect, the operator's skill makes a vast difference, too.
With many thanks and regards Rodders


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## DTR (2 Dec 2014)

dickm":2meayw04 said:


> I think my cheap ML2 copy was £15..................... :evil:



I did say I paid too much :shock:


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## blackrodd (2 Dec 2014)

I have (almost) decided not to have the myford and going along with the Unimat.
For starters, The Unimat is small and light (500 X 300) and as space is getting an issue in my workshop.
I know that weight is quality but as The Myford is so heavy and about twice the length and twice the width of the Emco Unimat, and I'll have to cover it up somehow to keep the dust out!
I see the unimat could arrive in a softwood box, so that is a possibility for storage.
There is also my concern that for me, it will be easier to use the Unimat, as a beginner, and best not get into habit with the "cack handed tool post feed" of the ML2 or 4.
I see that spare's don't seem to be an issue with either machine, and those in the know have modified and improved the ML's overthe years.
If I was ever any good with metalwork, I can always go for a bigger lathe later on.
Regards Rodders


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## finish_that (6 Dec 2014)

The Unimat 3 really is a tiny lathe so you can pop it in a cupboard if you want - the motors do fail and are expensive
It will require a light touch in operation


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## blackrodd (9 Dec 2014)

Finish that, thanks for the reply, (and every one else!). As you say a steady hand indeed, very much different from woodwork.
I can get my woodwork spot on for accuracy, but I'm told metalwork can be acceptable at +or- 4 thou, which was a great relief.
In the end, I bought the Myford ML4, and my son has it in his car repair workshop, should be useful for bushes etc.
I also bought a Unimat SL which may well be the better of the two for a model engineering workshop diorama that I am making for my son and grandson, which will be powered by the early Mamod SE2 that i bought last month.(one with a whistle!)
So instead of paying out for pulleys and the like, I shall now possibly end up as the scrap brass baron of the south west of England!
I think this will be a bit different from the farmyard with buildings and a garage built for the anklebiter's half a lifetime ago.
The shafting and pulley system will need some thought and i may try my hand at some levers to engage and dis-engage the drive/drive's as the SE2 won't produce enough power for all of it and a tiny dynamo for hidden led's
At the moment, I am looking at a base of 12"x 18". but will lay and sketch it all out, beforehand. 
I got the idea from Melinda's joiners workshop WIP, recently, but will keep a lookout for Bill and bloody Ben and any blighted judges!
If my engineers workshop turns out half as good as the woodshop, I shall be delighted
Regards Rodders


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## Harbo (10 Dec 2014)

The Austrian (original makers) versions of the Unimat's are much better made than the modern Chinese versions - but the good thing is that the modern accessories will fit and are readily available.

This is mine which I use for clock making:







They are not that powerful and rubber band driven but work well as long as fine cuts are taken.
I also use home made HSS cutters which work much better than the indexable ones on these machines.




























Rod


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## dickm (10 Dec 2014)

Lovely work! But the SL mentioned in the earlier post is the earlier model, which has a different nose thread, so accessories are more scarce. Still excellent little lathes for the applications mentioned. Just don't burn out the motor, they are expensive!


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## blackrodd (10 Dec 2014)

Harbo, I am mightily impressed with that, Thanks for putting that on!
as DICKM says, most the parts are different and the threads are larger on the later models.
My "new" Unimat arrived today, sadly, the in line on off switch and the tool post wheel handle had been broken in transit but as neither are available and difficult to cost, I've decided not to bother with a claim.
I have stripped, cleaned and oiled everything moving, 'cept the motor and headstock bearings as per the manual.
So the first job looks like it will be the tapered handle, which I'll probably make a bit more like the myford shape, now I need some mild steel from somewhere.
I have started the bench for the the Myford ML4 lathe, that's going in Nic's workshop and the Myford cutting tools from Merlins arrived today, Tool heaven for not a lot! 
Regards Rodders


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## woodfarmer (11 Dec 2014)

Get 1a free cutting mild steel, some of the ungraded stuff is very soft and tears a lot. (speak to your supplier).


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## blackrodd (11 Dec 2014)

woodfarmer":1opp8oni said:


> Get 1a free cutting mild steel, some of the ungraded stuff is very soft and tears a lot. (speak to your supplier).




I'm afraid we don't have a steel supplier here any more!
Parkins were our local stockists, good bunch of blokes, Then, as seems to be the norm in this country, 5, or 6 years ago, they were sold off, and then, surprise, surprise, Cilla, closed down.
The nearest is either Tiverton @ 30 odd miles or Exeter @50 miles and I don't know any of the 3 fabricators and none do lathe work.
But Thanks for the tip, no doubt someone will be selling some around here one day.
I was told to keep away from hot rolled steel as it's very hard, does this sound right to you?
Many thanks and regards Rodders


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