# Kitchen refurb - re finish Oak doors?



## RobertMP (29 Mar 2006)

Hello 

First post (of many hopefully). I have taken early retirement and one of my plans is to get back into woodworking. I plan to build myself a workshop at the bottom of the garden but SWMBO says I have to improve the kitchen before I can start 

Gave me an excuse to start buying tools though - have a dewalt 625 router and 712 saw so far 

Kitchen work involves new worktops/appliances/upstands/tiles/general decorating. The units are MFI schreiber things i installed about 10 years ago. They have panel doors made from solid oak and have stood up remarkably well - so they stayed.







The doors have a factory finish - which is not obviously damaged, but the doors do seem to get dirty quicker and seem a bit harder to clean. So long route to a short question - whats the best *satin* finish to apply over whatever is on the doors already?

Or should I just forget the idea


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## Waka (30 Mar 2006)

Robert

Welcome to the forum.

I think your doors will need a good sanding down to remove what's there and get a smooth surface before you apply any finish.

You could try a clear silk varnish as the final finish. I'm sure others will be along with advice as the day goes on.


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## RobertMP (30 Mar 2006)

I was kind of fishing to see if anyone would know what the makers might have used and if it would react with anything painted over it 

Sanding would only be possible on the flat surfaces so there will be overpainting.

I have a couple of end panels removed so I will practice on the back of those if there are no suggestions.


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## superunknown (30 Mar 2006)

Hi

Are you planning to brush on a finish or spray?

I have used Satin Polyurethane on a kitchen table, looks good and is very hard wearing. I brushed it on. Cutting it back between coats with a fine paper.

I would sand them too, but with a fairly fine grit paper so you don't scratch the existing finish and then go over them again with some fine steel wool and white spirit to be sure you remove any grease etc, that should reduce the chance of any reaction with your new finish.



Steve


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## RobertMP (30 Mar 2006)

Everything is removable. I do have a compressor and I have done a fair bit of stove enamel spraying in the distant past, so spraying is an option.

Somehow brushing seems like it may end up less work in the long run especially considering polyurethane sticky overspray


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## superunknown (1 Apr 2006)

I agree with you on the over spay, but just think of the time that you would save.


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## Sgian Dubh (1 Apr 2006)

Robert, almost certainly the original finish is one of the nitrocellulose family of spray finishes, most likely a pre-catalysed lacqer, a post catalysed lacquer, or an acid catalysed melamine lacquer. 

If you wish to recoat with a different type of finish, e.g., a brushed on varnish such as polyurethane then there will now, after all this long time be no problem with the solvents in the original finish affecting the new finish-- they'll have fully evaporated off years ago.

You could however have a problem with bonding of the new finish due to impurities such as grease or dirt on the original doors-- there's a lot of grease about in kitchens. Thorough cleaning of the existing woodwork to remove impurities would be a good idea. Sugar soap is a degreaser and this could be used. Also white spirits and naptha will remove grease and the like.

After you have degreased you will need to create a key for oil based or water based varnish to grip to and this is where light sanding of all the exposed existing polished wood is needed. Something like 240 grit to 320 grit paper will do a good job here.

Additionally, if after cleaning, you are at all unsure about how good a job you've done of degreasing you should consider use of a shellac to create a barrier between the original finish and the new finish. Shellac is very tolerant of less than ideal surfaces, e.g., oily woods such as teak, cocobolo, etc., and is regularly used to seal difficult woods and suspect surfaces as you might have.

Safest of all the shellacs is a de-waxed version that *all* other film forming polishes can adhere to. To change the colour the least use a super blonde or dewaxed pale or super-pale version.

Apply a coat of shellac with a spray gun, brush or cloth, let dry, rub down and refinish your kitchen with your varnish of choice following the instructions on the can carefully.

As ever do a test of your proposed finishing routine on an inconspicuous area or on a sample board. You don't want unexpected results through lack of testing, and this can happen if too many wrong assumptions are made. Slainte.


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## RobertMP (1 Apr 2006)

Thanks for the advice.

I'm used to dealing with industrial (metal) finishes but have hardly any experience with wood finishing - something I intend to change 
I understand the need for correct pre treatment.

A simple reference like 'use dewaxed shellac' leaves me needing to go do research - where do I get it and what are the brand names. Is it thin enough to spray or does it need thinning and if so with what?

I don't need spoon feeding with info but if there is a wood finishing FAQ somewhere (with UK brand references) a link would be appreciated.


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## Sgian Dubh (1 Apr 2006)

Robert, as I don't know where you live here's one supplier linked to, Richard Barry. They sell finishing products online and I believe they take phone orders. I've never used them so I've no idea what their service or products are like(other than the brand names I'm familiar with.)

http://www.richardbarry.co.uk/store/sto ... roductList 

Liberon is one brand name. Shellac is often described as french polish, as you'll notice they do on the Richard barry site which, perhaps more accurately speaking, is a method of application rather than the type of polish.

Shellac is sprayable. The thinner or solvent for the stuff is alcohol. One type of alcohol sold in the UK is meths, the dyed blue stuff. Nowadays you can buy clear industrial alcohol, ethyl alcohol, methanol or ethanol. As with every liquid it can be sprayed as long as it's of the right consistency for the spray equipment you have. Slainte.


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## RobertMP (1 Apr 2006)

Sgian Dubh":d488q4vo said:


> Robert, as I don't know where you live.



NE London



Sgian Dubh":d488q4vo said:


> http://www.richardbarry.co.uk/store/sto ... roductList
> ><
> Liberon is one brand name. Shellac is often described as french polish,
> Shellac is sprayable. The thinner or solvent for the stuff is alcohol.
> ...



Very helpful thanks


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## Colin C (1 Apr 2006)

Hi RobertMP
also try http://www.wsjenkins.co.uk/
They are in North London and I use them myself 
Ps you can also ask for advice too, very helpful


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