# Storage Shed - WIP **FINISHED!**



## gidon (5 Nov 2008)

Well I mentioned this on another thread asking for advice on how to build a more heavy duty (work)shed - this ones just for storage (3m x 2.4m), so here are some pics:







Using a wedge to make a tight joint on the tongue and groove boards:





Framed the walls with pressure treated roofing battens ...





Full size drawing really helps for the roof - should have done something like this to start off with - had no plans at all not even a sketch which was stupid!





Ridge board held in place:





Cutting bird's mouth on rafters:





Roof framing done and some braces added.





I'm really not sure what I'm doing next - I might roof it or least get the OSB boards up. 

Do you reckon it's worth adding any polythene sheeting for a storage shed? If so how do I do that? And I guess it's too late to bother with DPC - again didn't think it was necessary for this sort of shed.

Costs so far:
Floor joists, floor boards: £100 (B&Q)
Wall and roof framing timber: £100 (with a fair bit of 2x1 left over) (Tavistock Woodland Saw mill)

So considering cladding will be at least £200 and roofing probably £150 it's not cheap! 

Any comments and suggestions always welcome.

Cheers

Gidon


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## DaveL (5 Nov 2008)

Gidon,

Have I read that right, you framed the walls with 2*1 timber? If so I would want to add the skin the walls before I worked on the roof, for fear of it all toppling over. I also think you need a few more braces in the walls to stabilise them, so maybe that 2*1 was not really over?


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## gidon (6 Nov 2008)

Yes you read it right Dave!
I think you're right I should clad the walls first! I'm scared of how much it'll cost!
Cheers
Gidon


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## wizer (6 Nov 2008)

I'm sure 1" will be fine once the cladding is on. You're right the cost of building your own shed is not cheap. Especially when you look at the pre-fab alternatives. But I have never seen one of those that didn't have a saggy or leaky roof (or both). It's such a PITA when an outbuilding develops a fault because, by then, it's normally full the the brim with 'stuff' and more often than not it's the depth of winter (DAMHIKT).

It's looking good. Keep us in the loop.


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## MikeG. (6 Nov 2008)

Gidon,

firstly, polythene...........no, leave it out. If you are worried about damp penetration how about a building paper instead.........but I just wouldn't bother. Polythene, and anything else that is vapour impermeable, will act as a great place for condensation when the moisture levels have a relative difference (ie it is wetter or drier inside compared with out)...........and this will happen whenever the temperature changes. It is this that leads the ignorant to say that polythene sweats.

Secondly, not a big issue here but something to take care of when you build bigger buildings.........your rafters should be either directly above studs, or, if not, the top member of the frame should be beefed up to compensate. It is normal to double up the top plate. Given that this is so lightweight a building I wouldn't bother doing redemptive works now..........just don't clamber about on the roof.

Fianlly, if there is no ply or other sheathing board as part of your external walls, you are going to have to use diagonal bracing. You can just nail on some 3x1 to the insides of your studs..........2 nails per stud.......and your bracing should go from plate to plate, and on each wall. It might be sensible to use some off-cuts of ply or OSB to do a complete sheathing either side of the door.

Mike


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## gidon (7 Nov 2008)

Thanks Wizer.
Mike thanks again! Bit worried now thought the 3/4" cladding would be plenty strong enough to hold it all together. Guess I should clad it and see how stiff it is? I don't really want to sheath it with plywood and adding braces sounds a little botchy! I should have added diagonal members in the frame as I did when I built the playhouse. But saw pics and real sheds that didn't bother so thought I wouldn't!
Cheers
Gidon


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## wizer (7 Nov 2008)

I know it can seem costly, but even in a storage shed, having the walls sheathed is so convenient. Shelves and fixtures pretty much wherever you want them. 12mm OSB will do it.

PS I hope this is a lunch break, it's lovely day out there


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## gidon (7 Nov 2008)

Wizer wish I could get out there but I can't now for over a week .
Are you talking about sheathing outside or inside - guess even outside is handy for attaching things hadn?'t though of that .
Cheers
Gidon


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## MikeG. (7 Nov 2008)

Gidon,

don't worry about it too much.......all easily rectified!!!

Screwing or nailing bracing across the inside is far from a botch. That is the way I would go for a store shed. It even creates a nice little gap in which to shove long thin things........garden canes and my drain rods benefit from just such an arrangement in one of my sheds.

Different if it were a workshop.......then I would certainly advocate sheathing the inside. It hardly seems worth the time, trouble or expense if this is just garden shed for lawnmower and bikes.

Cheers

Mike


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## wizer (7 Nov 2008)

i did mean inside


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## gidon (26 Dec 2008)

Hi
Back on this again in between children throwing up!
Starting cladding - I'll post some pics of progress soon. But I have a question ... What's the correct way of filling the gap in this pic between the top of the walls and the roof? The next bit of cladding will fit around the rafters and be flush with the top of the walls. But there will still be a gap between this and the OSB roofing.






Also the offcuts of the 4.5m lengths of cladding will have to do the 2.4m ends too but will only have 1.5m left from cutting the 3m walls. Is it normal practice to join short lengths for cladding longer walls? If so do I just cut a bevelled join end to end like this // (but steeper!).


Many thanks

Gidon


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## Shultzy (26 Dec 2008)

Gidon, you don't need to fit the cladding around the rafters, just underneath. Clad the overhang with plain boards and then put a board across the rafters (there's a pic on my shed build showing similar). Its ok to use short lengths of cladding as long as the joint is on a stud, butted square ends are ok.


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## gidon (27 Dec 2008)

Thanks Shultzy - great thread on your shed.
Thanks for the end to end cladding advice - makes sense! I don't quite get the bit about cladding to the rafters though and couldn't see the pic in your shed build that would help? I can't clad about the wall unless I add something? Am I being thick - I'm sure I am!
Cheers
Gidon


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## MikeG. (27 Dec 2008)

Gidon,

I think you will do this easiest by solid blocking between the rafters at the point at which they overhang the plate. 3x2's or 4x2's cut to fit between the rafter, and fixed such that they contact the plate and finish flush with the top of the rafters will do the job nicely (obviously you have one more line of boarding to do yet). The face of the blocking will lean outwards, such that the top of the blocking is on the same plane as the top of the rafter.

They will also help a little with the load distribution issue I pointed out last time, with the rafters not occuring at the stud positions. Furthermore, this squares up any twisted rafters, and locks them all into position.

You may need to plane a little to get the best fit, and if you want the same finish as your boarding you will need to machine the outer face smooth.

Mike


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## gidon (28 Dec 2008)

Thanks Mike
So I understand you I build up the top of the walls flush with the top of the rafters. Then clad to this?
If so didn't quite get your last point about getting the same finish by machining the boarding? Don't I just continue the cladding to the top of the rafters with these support blocks in place?
Cheers
Gidon


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## MikeG. (28 Dec 2008)

Sorry Gidon......so much easier with a drawing!!

Of course, you could do exactly what you suggest, and that would be fine. All I was suggesting was having the blocking fair-faced and having it exposed (not clad). I also suggested tipping it out to be at right angles to the slope of the roof......its just a matter of choice. If you've enough shiplap, do it your way....

Mike


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## gidon (28 Dec 2008)

Ah sorry I misunderstood - thanks a lot Mike - I'll see how much cladding I've got.
Cheers
Gidon


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## Shultzy (28 Dec 2008)

Gidon, these are the pics I was referring to











They show the rafters overhanging the sides and I clad them with 4" matchboarding.


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## gidon (5 Jan 2009)

OK managed some further progress on the shed over Christmas:

Half the pressure treated 6 x 3/4" shiplap ...





It gets harder and harder lugging this mitre saw out each time I get a couple of hours to work on the shed! (And don't get me started on the ridiculous way the saw mounts to the stand!)





First wall clad ...





Cutting out the windows (would have been much easier using a router for this!)















Went for Mike's blocking solution in the end. Cutting the 30 degree angle for the blocks:





And here installed with the last row of cladding cut around the rafters:





And this is how it stands:





I ran out of wood, nails and daylight!

It's now much more sturdy thankfully! Got the shiplap from Travis and Perkins and quite impressed. They were the cheapest, free delivery and the 4.5m lengths were very straight which made things easier! And they could deliver quickly (the day before Christmas Eve no less).

I'm trying to decide on the roofing - planned to go for felt tiles like on my play house but worried about the expense. Any other suggestions? 

Also any hints / tips on the door structure / hanging method?

Cost so far:
Floor joists, floor boards: £100 (B&Q) 
Wall and roof framing timber: £100 (with a fair bit of 2x1 left over) (Tavistock Woodland Saw mill) 
Cladding, OSB boards for roof: £300 (Travis and Perkins)

Cheers

Gidon


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## MikeG. (5 Jan 2009)

Looks good Gidon,

..........but why does the last board on the gable end finish at the bottom edge of the rafter, rather than the top edge?You could save yourself some work by boarding straight over the gable rafters.

Mike


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## wizer (5 Jan 2009)

Thanks for the progress report Gidon. I'm starting to formulate plans for 2 storage sheds in my garden and your costings are helpful. My 2 will be smaller than yours.

You are an absolute saint to be out there in this cold weather working on the shed. I can't even handle being in my heated workshop! :roll: :wink:


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## gidon (5 Jan 2009)

Thanks chaps.
Mike - I've yet to add the overhang (which I plan to create with a sort of ladder arrangement attached to the gable rafters). So I can just attach some facia board to the front of this?
Wizer at least it's been dry! And any excuse to get out the house with the children ill all over Christmas! At least my workshop's been warm - noticed today that the thermostat must be gone! I have the electric fan heater on frost guard and noticed it's still running when it's reading 9C in the shed! Hope my wife doesn't find out! Not sure how long it's been like this since I've been mainly outside!
Cheers
Gidon


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## RogerM (13 Jan 2009)

gidon":3kyoz910 said:


> Cost so far:
> Floor joists, floor boards: £100 (B&Q)
> Wall and roof framing timber: £100 (with a fair bit of 2x1 left over) (Tavistock Woodland Saw mill)
> Cladding, OSB boards for roof: £300 (Travis and Perkins)
> ...



Looking good Gidon. Hope children are now better. What a pain over Xmas!

I'm plotting something similar, but about 10' x 10' and in a summerhouse style. Can you remember what the cost per metre was of the shiplap from TP? Totem have quoted me £1.20 per metre which sounds a bit steep.



> I have the electric fan heater on frost guard and noticed it's still running when it's reading 9C in the shed! Hope my wife doesn't find out! Not sure how long it's been like this since I've been mainly outside!



Hmm. Say 2KW @ 11p per KWh = £5.28 per day. Ouch


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## John. B (13 Jan 2009)

I finished the end of my shed like this.
Gives some weather protection to the windows and end cladding and IMO a little bit of style.







John. B


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## gidon (13 Jan 2009)

Thanks Roger - yes they all got better for the New Year thank goodness.

I paid 1.30/m + VAT for the 6" 3/4" treated shiplap. I rang around Tavistock Woodland, Duchy and TP were the cheapest. So if Totem are quoting for 6" 3/4" sounds a good price to me! But it's an expensive thing the cladding.

I really hope that heater wasn't on too long then!

Very nice John - looks very unique!

Cheers

Gidon


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## gidon (19 Jan 2009)

Well not as much progress as I'd hope but getting there ...

Cladding pretty much done:





Added ladder frame for overhang:





OSB boards cut and fixed:





This last stage took me a full day! Hard going on your own. Plus overkill using 3/4" OSB - 1/2" I'm sure would have been fine - and easier to handle! Had to also add some noggins between the rafters to help support the boards - I guess they should fall on rafters but they don't . 

Then there was getting up on the roof - ended up building that roof hook thingy you can see in the last pic and having to borrow my neighbour's ladder.

I then desperately tried to fix the underfelt for the felt shingles I'll be using. I've tried to do this myself on my workshed (patch repair) and remember it being tricky, but this time I ended up tearing my first strip of felt! It's flippin' tricky with only two hands! Any tips PLEASE on doing this on my lonesome?!! 

Also will the underfelt be waterproof enough to leave encovered before I attach the shingles. Or do I still need to put tarpaulin over it?

Cost so far: 
Floor joists, floor boards: £100 (B&Q) 
Wall and roof framing timber: £100 (with a fair bit of 2x1 left over) (Tavistock Woodland Saw mill) 
Cladding, OSB boards for roof: £300 (Travis and Perkins) 
Trim, some more cladding: £100 (T&P)
Roofing underfelt: £25 (B&Q)

Cheers

Gidon


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## gidon (17 Apr 2009)

Progress has been slow but I'm almost there. 

Barge and facia boards, underlay, and felt shingles (started)





Shingles almosy complete one side - very quick once you get going (and find a way of reaching the ridge!





As it currently stands. Shingles finished, framing for door and windows in. Windows in (took far longer than I'd thought!). Just need to make door and do final trim!





I ordered the shingles from ashpheltic in Plymouth and not too impressed. They were more than Marley shingles from B&Q and not as good! But B&Q didn't have black at the time and they did .

Haven't quite decided on door so any recommendation welcome. 

Cheers

Gidon


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## MickCheese (17 Apr 2009)

Looks really good, it may have been expensive but it looks so much better than one you could have bought off the peg.

How about a half glazed door to let in some light?

Well done

Mick


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## crazylilting (18 Apr 2009)

Dear me i wish i would of seen this one a little sooner. Several things to worry about.

You didn't have a double plate on the top of your stud walls and the rafters didn't line up with your studs. As this is only a one by frame it may sag over time. The other thing is the ladders you built... The idea of a ladder is to cantilever the roof over the wall. So it should straddle the wall, it will sag if it doesn't. So if you want a one foot over hang you need to cut your ladder pieces back to the second rafter and use that one as the ladder leg. It also means that your end gable needs to be dropped or made to accommodate the over hang so you can nail the middle of the ladder to the end gable.

One needs to approach stick framing in a logical way. the load needs to be carried through the entire building from the roof down. a rafter is displacing the weight of the roof and if nothing is under it the dead load will keep pressing down on your plat and your siding.

hope this helps


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## dennis (18 Apr 2009)

Valid points Crazylilting, the ridge running through and having a fascia board help but there is a possibility of the overhang sagging, especially if it gets thick snow.

Could put gallows brackets under the bottom corner of the ladder frames.

Dennis.


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## head clansman (19 Apr 2009)

hi gidon 

its going no where . You have a ridge board and a fascia board which is attached to the ladder , plus it appears you have the roof sheeting running the 8 ft ft length ways as well , and the ladder its attached to the cable ends as well which appear to be no more than about 7 ft in length , fore Christ sake it's storage shed not a bloody great house . hc


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## dennis (19 Apr 2009)

It may never go anywhere, but because of the method of consruction of the ladder frame there is a possibility of sag, only time will tell.

It may only be a storage shed but it has a longer gable overhang than most bloody great houses.

Dennis.


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## head clansman (19 Apr 2009)

Hi 


It's width of overhang in it's self is of no importance at all , its length however is, its no more the seven feet approx , theres very little weight in volved no where near the length & weight found in a normal house construction . More to the point its fixed to the cable , to the ridge and to the fascia board these two are continuous length of timber, plus the roof sheeting is also fixed to it making that three sides and one face , so all in all if it sages? it will be the same as the rafters , there will not be any sage in his roof. hc


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## dennis (20 Apr 2009)

The width of the overhang is indeed important, as it is cantilevered and as such, the wider it becomes the more downward pressure there is.

On older roofs the purlins, ridge, and wallplate run through to support the end spar, making a strong job not needing the fascia or any overboarding to help support it.

On the more modern trussed roofs, the ladder frame is fixed to the last truss inside the gable and is built into the gable end. Also making a strong job not needing help from the fascia.

But in this case, as the ladder frame is only fixed to the outside of the gable, although the ridge runs through, the bottom corner would be weak and easily pulled down before the fascia was fixed, and the wider the overhang the weaker it would be.


So instead of the ladder frame being strong enough to support the fascia and roofing sheets, we have the opposite and they are supporting the ladder frame.

Dennis


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## gidon (21 Apr 2009)

Thanks Mick! I like the idea of a half glazed door - only negative is I'd lose some storage on the back of door .
crazylifting - Mike did point out the issue with the rafters not being over the studs - did try and strengthen it by adding 2x3s to the wall plate (also closing in the eaves). Get what you mean with the ladder - will know for next time - thanks! All learning - I went into this a bit blind and didn't work to plans or a drawing which was silly. Still have learnt a lot and still a lot to learn!
Dennis - good point will add brackets if overhang sags.
Thanks HC - encouraging! Yes the OSB is also holding the overhang - it feels pretty solid to me. But it's good to know the correct way of doing things for next time. 
Funny about the ladder frames - that was one bit where I actually got advice from a carpenter!
Thanks for the comments - all appreciated.
Cheers
Gidon


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## head clansman (21 Apr 2009)

Hi gidon

The point i was making was the way you did it is fine , i know how to constructed roofs with gable ladders did all that forty yrs ago . they are right on how it's done but and this is the but a traditional roof ladder when completed as described would then be loaded with either slate or some form of concrete roof tiles adding a huge amount of extra load to the overhang hence this was why its design that way. yours well roof boarding + felt shingles about seven foot long weight wise :?: , you make your own mind up.  hc

PS An added thought here gidon gallows brackets i know someone did mention them but not for that reason how exposed is the overhang to wind say a south westerly of about gale force eight or more might save you losing the roof from any upwards lift from the wind under the overhang . hc


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## gidon (22 Apr 2009)

HC - it is quite exposed to wind - we're on Dartmoor fairly high up. So may look at gallows brackets - thanks.
Cheers
Gidon


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## gidon (14 May 2009)

Well almost finished - have quite a few finishing touches to make, particularly inside but here it is:




(Click here for all WIP photos).

Very satisfying project and I have learnt a lot.

Final costs: 
Floor joists, floor boards: £100 (B&Q) 
Wall and roof framing timber: £100 (with a fair bit of 2x1 left over) (Tavistock Woodland Saw mill) 
Cladding, OSB boards for roof: £300 (Travis and Perkins) 
Trim, some more cladding: £100 (T&P) 
Roofing underfelt: £25 (B&Q)
Roofing shingles: £150 (Ashphaltic, Plymouth - wouldn't recommend, the Marley ones from B&Q are much better and same price)
Door: £20
Total: £700
I could have reduced costs on floor boards (used OSB), and roof (shed felt) - would have made the costs over £100 less but for me the roofing shingles at least are definately worth it.

Cheers

Gidon


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## Paul Chapman (14 May 2009)

That looks very nice, Gidon.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## thomvic (14 May 2009)

You made a good looking job there Gidon, despite the doubts expressed by some.
I presume a couple of coats of preservative and then on with the gardening eh!


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## gidon (14 May 2009)

Thanks chaps.
Not sure about doubts - just helpful comments .
Pre-treated so nothing to do to it .
Cheers
Gidon


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## pitch pine (14 May 2009)

Nice looking shed and £700 doesn't buy much. Roof overhangs at the eaves and gable make so much difference.


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## head clansman (14 May 2009)

Hi gidon 

nice one, really nice one , not as good as mine but :wink: :roll: nice one . hc


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## mailee (14 May 2009)

Well done Gidon, looks good. Yes it is surprising how much timber is now for a project like this. I get a good discount from my local timber merchants but it still cost me around £500 for the materials to build a 10 x 8 shed. :roll: I agree with you that the shingles make it look so much nicer. I will eventually get around to putting them on my workshop one day! :roll:


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## MrD (14 May 2009)

Hi Gidon,

Great looking storage shed - much better than you could buy off the shelf!

Is your timber pressure treated? I may have had a bad experience but I built a deck from Wickes pressure treated timber and assumed it needed no further treatment. Several years down the line the timber has cracked, split and warped. I was told the pressure treatment only stops it from rotting and it still needs some treatment from the elements.

I maybe wrong and often am - perhaps others could comment?


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## OPJ (14 May 2009)

Looks good, Gidon, and a real bargain at that price, when you think about it. :wink:

So, now it's time to fill it up... Is this your wood store??? :shock:

MrD, the information you've been given is correct. Timber, as a natural product, is liable to warp, split and crack in time. You may find it is at its worst in the summer but moves back again in the winter. The treatment appears to have done it's job in that the deck is still standing; your wood isn't rotten. 

It is advisable to treat the decking regularly (decking oil is good) from the time at which it is first laid. Most people will add a coat of oil annually. This may help prevent the boards from drying out so quickly (hence all the shrinkage and movement) and it also revives the colour, if you don't like the silvery/grey look achieved over time.


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## gidon (21 May 2009)

Sorry for late reply - been away ...
Thanks for comments. Yes wood is pressure treated - hope it lasts!
Olly - wood store - I wish! Just garden junk.
Cheers
Gidon


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## RogerM (21 May 2009)

Look good Gidon. Maybe a coat of decking oil would protect the wood against excess weathering?

Nice avatar btw. Where is it?


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