# Build or buy kitchen base units?



## martlewis (23 Mar 2008)

The plan when we bought the house nearly 2 years ago was to take out the kitchen and put in a farm house style kitchen. What I can't afford to do is replace all the appliances so the worktop on one wall will be quite deep so i can have doors in front of the appliances that swing open and slide down the side of the cabinet, if you know what I mean.

So yesterday my new range cooker arrived and unfortunately  I had to rip out a unit to make space for it. So the kitchen project begins, and yes pictures will follow in the projects category.

My question is do I make all the base cabinets, or buy them for under £30 per unit from Buy&Queue? Is it going to be more cost effective to make them realistically, especially looking at £25-£30 per sheet of ply. Of course I'll make the doors and drawer fronts. Anyone else done a kitchen can offer advice, did you build or buy?

Cheers all.

Martin


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## Mike.C (23 Mar 2008)

Martin, the only thing I found with the £30 B&Q ones is the doors you make have to be light because the chipboard they use do not hold the hinge screws very well. I made some oak R&S raised panel doors and within a couple of weeks the screws were pulling out, and it isn't as if you can use much longer screws because the cabinet panels are not that thick.

Without high jacking your thread has anyone got any tips when this happens, or anything to stop it happening?

Cheers

Mike


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## martlewis (23 Mar 2008)

Good point there, and I suppose at £30 per 8x4 sheet of 3/4 ply, I'll get more than one cabinet from a sheet.


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## WellsWood (23 Mar 2008)

Unless it's what you do for a living I can't see how you can justify making the carcases over buying in. Even if you really talked yourself into it, if you're talking about ply instead of MFC you have to add internal finishing into the equation - it's important you can clean the insides easily, it's a kitchen after all - and that's a lot of work to get close to MFC for convenience and hygene.
As far as hinges are concerned the quickest way to shorten the life of the standard items is to overtighten the fixing screws when installing them. It's worth considering not fitting the standard 95/100 degree opening hinges in favour of wide angle replacements. That way you'll be far less likely to rip the hinges off the inside of the cabinets because it's much harder to force them back past their maximum opening, something that's all too easy to do with the standard items on cheaper kitchens.


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## Paul Chapman (23 Mar 2008)

Mike.C":21bxg0ce said:


> Without high jacking your thread has anyone got any tips when this happens, or anything to stop it happening?



Hi Mike,

This is quite a problem because you don't have much material to play with and chipboard is a bit ropey. What I've done, with some success, when repairing some knock-down wardrobes and cupboards that had been knocked down to often and the hinge screw holes were a bit knackerd, is to use a combination of dowels and fibre Rawlplugs. Using a dowelling jig, drill out the old screw hole and glue in a 10mm wooden dowel. When the glue is dry plane the dowel flush and drill the centre and glue in a fibre Rawlplug. When dry, trim flush and screw into the fibre Rawlplug.

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink: 

Paul


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## martlewis (23 Mar 2008)

The other thing is time, buying the carcasses is way quicker than making them in my case. And I forgot about the internal finishing. Swaying back to buying again.


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## paulm (23 Mar 2008)

Buying is way more sensible but not from B&Q, look for better quality cabinets from Magnet or similar, you generally get what you pay for, and do the doors/drawers etc yourself.......

Cheers, Paul.


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## jasonB (23 Mar 2008)

Off the shelf B&Q carcases are only 15mm with hardboard backs, better to look for 18mm with solid backs which their to order ones have.

Have a look at Woodfit, they do several carcase options from basic white to premium colour matched with 2mm PVC edging which is more durable, this one and the next few images use the premium range

Mike C easiest option is to use these

Jason


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## tsb (23 Mar 2008)

I'm having a go at building my own kitchen at the moment, using jumbo sheets of MFC (cut down to size of course) for the carcases. I looked at buying them, but found that the sizes didn't quite fit my walls, therefore I can make whatever size carcase I want. Some might be 570 wide, or 610 wide. The only problem in making your own is probably the time factor.


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## Mike.C (23 Mar 2008)

Martin, I was not trying to put you off buying ready made cabinets. Far from it, and MarkW's post shows you why. All I was saying was I would not buy the cheaper B&Q ones.
On top of what Mark said don't forget you also get the adjustable feet etc when you buy the ready made ones, which is another cost if you make your own.

Paul, Jason, excellent ideas, thank you. :lol:

Cheers

Mike


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## mailee (23 Mar 2008)

Have a look at these people: 
http://diy-kitchens.com/acatalog/Index_Home.html
Most of the trade use them and although more expensive than B&Poo are of good quality. they are already assembled and rigid. Good quality stuff. :wink:


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## chippy1970 (23 Mar 2008)

I had plans on building my own units but when it came to it I just used Howdens.

By the time you have painted everything its just not economical also I am a typical chippy and never finish things off.

I wouldn't use Magnet carcases as someone has suggested as they are only 15mm now not 18mm like they used to be years ago.

I have seen Screwfix sell carcase only units but don't know what they are like.

You could try Benchmarx they look good and they have 15mm solid backs to the units but I dont know if you can buy just the carcases.


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## Gill (23 Mar 2008)

Are these types of cabinets always the best way for a DIY-er to construct a new kitchen? Some years ago I built a workbench fastened against a brick wall in a scullery. It was mounted on a cheap frame of 44mm x 44mm timber which was formed using half lap joints. The heavy workbench surface was absolutely rigid and at the time I wondered how it would look with some kitchen cabinet doors on the front. Sadly, the workbench went when the scullery wall was demolished, but the workbench was harder to knock down than the wall!

It doesn't take much effort to make a simple, sturdy frame which could easily be fronted with prefabricated kitchen doors and trimmings. Even drawers could be incorporated easily. Also, this sort of frame would remove a lot of doubt about measuring up for carcasses because it could be customised so easily. It would be cheaper than buying carcasses, too.

Perhaps I just don't understand the finer points of kitchen fitting, but I'm also wondering if it's been made into a darker art than it needs to be.

Gill


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## Woodmagnet (23 Mar 2008)

When screws start to pull out on the hinges use these.
http://www.woodfit.com/product_info.php ... nge+Repair :wink:


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## jasonB (23 Mar 2008)

Gill, what you suggest has some merrit, in the past I have made a run of units "as one" rather than several joined together, this saves on carcase sides as you are not doubling up where each door meets. They can still be made as large carcases 1800-2400 long and mounted on adjustable feet, you will need to use "overlap" hinges which allow two doors to hang/meet on a 18mm edge if using lay-on doors. I use it where I want to divide a space into say three equal doors rather than two of one width and one smaller to get the overall width ie 3 doors @ 567 rather than [email protected] 600 & [email protected] 500.

This method is also ideal for in-frame kitchens as it allows for a single vertical frame member between doors, just like this which I prefer to the off the shelf in-frames as they have a joint between each separate surround.

Does not suit a lot of the wirework as that is all sized on nominal carcase width less 36 (2x18)


Jason


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## J D Architectural Joinery (23 Mar 2008)

Mike.C":22aan3vc said:


> Without high jacking your thread has anyone got any tips when this happens, or anything to stop it happening?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Mike



with a router and a jig, router out the hinge area and replace with ply. Trend do an inlay cutter set. Glue in the piece with some PU glue, and bobs yer relative

If you have units side to side you can get through bolts from door handles that can do the trick also.


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## Mike.C (23 Mar 2008)

Thanks Kevin and David.

Cheers

Mike


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## brianhabby (23 Mar 2008)

Hi Martin,

If you do decide to make your own then paint the plywood on one side before cutting and assembling. The insides are then pre-finished when you make them.

regards

Brian


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## martlewis (24 Mar 2008)

Definately making the drawer fronts and doors, I'm going to price up the units once my SketchUp plan is finished and compare time/cost. We had a baby boy yesterday so I think the time factor is going to win this one!!!


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## chippy1970 (24 Mar 2008)

Congratulations =D>


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## Mike.C (24 Mar 2008)

Congrats Martin, and to Mrs Martin too :lol: 

WELL DONE, ANOTHER FUTURE WOODWORKER =D>

Cheers

Mike


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## RogerM (24 Mar 2008)

martlewis":b96juxti said:


> Definately making the drawer fronts and doors, I'm going to price up the units once my SketchUp plan is finished and compare time/cost. We had a baby boy yesterday so I think the time factor is going to win this one!!!



Congratulations! =D> And you think you're going to have time to build a kitchen? :lol: (hammer)


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## George_N (24 Mar 2008)

Martin, congratulations to you both on the birth of your son.
I went down the 'make your own units' road. I went for MFC, which I bought through a local timber merchant, cost about £22/ sheet (8'x4'). I planned the layout and worked out the sizes of each part for the units. I used a program called Cutlist to optimise the layout for cutting...it cost about the same as one sheet of MFC, so well worth it. I got the whole kitchen out of 10 sheets (I had guestimated nearer 20 sheets) so not too expensive for materials. I have made frame and panel doors out of MDF and painted to suit the boss. 
The downside...MFC is a pig to work with. Even with good tools it chips as soon as you look at it and the tools blunt quickly. It also takes longer than you estimate to build even one unit. If, like me you are short on time (and with a new baby you will be) and only get a Saturday or Sunday to work on the project, you may only get one unit or door made in a session.
I know you can get pre-edged MFC that is 570 mm wide, the depth of a base unit side, which makes it a bit easier and quicker but probably more expensive. All-in-all I would probably buy ready made units if I were to do it again, because it quickly goes from being fun to being a chore especially if you get questions from SWMBO as to why it is taking so long to get this 'simple' job done.


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## ike (24 Mar 2008)

Gill makes a very valid point about frame construction over slab construction. My first kitchen I built as frame construction, made the doors (solid mahogany) and the top was plywood with Formica sheet on top. There was however. no other option i.e. factory made units. Still proud of that kitchen 20 years on!

Ike


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## martlewis (28 Mar 2008)

Finally posted the first rough sketches of the kitchen in the design forum if anyone wants to look and offer feedback, all welcome. SWMBO insists the worktops are wood which is going to be expensive but I daren't argue!!! The main length of worktop is quite deep, front to back, as it has to conceal washer/dryer. Is it likely that I'll find worktop extra wide, or has anyone advice on making my own and what wood to use?

Cheers.


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## SteveD (29 Mar 2008)

I would go with Howdens to. Used them many times,good for the price.

Steve


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## jasonB (29 Mar 2008)

You should be able to get away with a 650mm top. I have used these with free standing appliances and put doors in front, provided thereare no rigid pipes running accross the back.

900mm tops are also available off the shelf but a bit wasteful, the offcuts can make nice matching windowcills or floating shelves Just be careful picking them up as a 900x4100 top weighs a bit :wink: 

I get mine from Richard Russel but there are other suppliers around the country.

You could also make your own, I have done it several times in the past from sawn timber but now I find it less hastle to buy in PAR boards and make them up from these or even have them completely made up but you are looking at £250+ per meter run for wide long boards rather than thin short staves that you get with off the shelf tops.

Jason


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