# Osmo top oil.



## John Brown (28 Jul 2017)

I have now applied 5 coats of Osmo 3058 top oil to a new beech worktop, and my wife is complaining that it doesn't look vaguely shiny, like the other ones. I have shown her the two cans of oil, both of which bear a label with the number 3058 on it. She pointed out that one says 3058 clear, and the other says 3058 clear matt. I pointed out that:
a) The one that says clear actually says matt on the tin.
b) I can't live in a universe where a company like Osm uses the same part number for two separate products.

Waht do you think? Have Osmo changed the formula slightly? Should I keep going until the worktop plus oil is so high that we need to use stilts to use it?


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## marcros (28 Jul 2017)

John Brown":20k5112x said:


> I have now applied 5 coats of Osmo 3058 top oil to a new beech worktop, and my wife is complaining that it doesn't look vaguely shiny, like the other ones. I have shown her the two cans of oil, both of which bear a label with the number 3058 on it. She pointed out that one says 3058 clear, and the other says 3058 clear matt. I pointed out that:
> a) The one that says clear actually says matt on the tin.
> b) I can't live in a universe where a company like Osm uses the same part number for two separate products.
> 
> Waht do you think? Have Osmo changed the formula slightly? Should I keep going until the worktop plus oil is so high that we need to use stilts to use it?




I think that you have the same product, but the osmo website states:



http://www.osmouk.com/sitechaptern.cfm?bookid=Products&chapter=82&page=255":20k5112x said:


> 3058 CLEAR, MATT
> 
> The emphasis on the wood's grain and natural characteristics provides a warm and rich effect without a sheen.



I think that you are using the wrong product to get a shine.


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## transatlantic (28 Jul 2017)

Matt -> Satin -> Gloss

You won't get a shine with matt, no matter how many coats.


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## CHJ (28 Jul 2017)

Never used the product but I'm assuming it is a polymerising oil that forms a hard skin when fully cured?
As you are already committed to the application have you tried burnishing a cured sample with burnishing cream to see if the surface will 'gloss' up.




> If a higher gloss level is desired, after thoroughly drying apply Osmo Liquid Wax Cleaner (also available as Spray) thinly and polish when dry. Wood surfaces treated with TopOil are easy to maintain. Remove coarse dirt with a broom or a vacuum cleaner. To clean, add Osmo Wash and Care concentrate to mop water and clean the surface with a damp (not wet!) cloth . Use Osmo Liquid Wax Cleaner to remove tough stains, which cleans and regenerates the surface at the same time.


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## John Brown (28 Jul 2017)

Thanks for the replies. Maybe I'll get a can of the satin. That's probably the best I can do.


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## ED65 (28 Jul 2017)

If you have an unobtrusive spot you can use I'd try a test, sand lightly with fine paper and then see if it'll buff up any. 

Even without smoothing off the surface many a matt finish is subject to burnishing over time and this is just a faster version of the same effect.


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## custard (28 Jul 2017)

The simple truth is that all the Osmo variants are squeezed into a fairly narrow spectrum, so the matt isn't all that matt and the gloss isn't all that glossy. 

You say your wife is comparing this piece to a previous piece, it's worth remembering the degree of shine will be influenced by location in the room, in front of or adjacent to a window everything looks shinier, in a corner everything looks flatter. Sometimes for suites of furniture I'll use different variants of a finish to equal that up, so say gloss for corner pieces, satin for window pieces. Just a thought.


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## sploo (1 Aug 2017)

Yep, the 3058 is clear matt. No particular sheen on that, but I like it on an oak worktop.

The 3028 is clear satin, and has more of a sheen. Not as much as Liberon Finishing oil or Danish Oil though.


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