# Box joint jig sketchup plans free of charge



## Graham Orm (18 Feb 2015)

I'm half way through a plan for this jig. If anyone wants a copy let me know.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYxDXHGRRrk
Graham.


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## SteveF (18 Feb 2015)

that is fantastic Jig

just watched the video

Steve


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## Graham Orm (18 Feb 2015)

SteveF":1lmrt6ww said:


> that is fantastic Jig
> 
> just watched the video
> 
> Steve



I think it's the best home made one I've seen Steve simply because of the cam idea that controls the turn setting.


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## Random Orbital Bob (18 Feb 2015)

Graham Orm":3fy7lve3 said:


> If anyone wants a copy let me know.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYxDXHGRRrk
> Graham.



Yes pls Graham, when you're ready. Thanks matey.


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## Graham Orm (18 Feb 2015)

Plans now done.














Bob, just got to do exploded views will have it all to you by tomorrow at latest, out to a doo tonight. Graham.


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## fluffflinger (18 Feb 2015)

You can add me to the list and thanks.


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## Geofract (18 Feb 2015)

Me too please. Great jig!


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## artie (18 Feb 2015)

I also.


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## Bigdanny (18 Feb 2015)

The youtube is great. Would like to see the sketch-up. Will help with me making for a router table version. Good find.


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## Graham Orm (18 Feb 2015)

Please PM me with your email address for the drawings. Graham.


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## DennisCA (19 Feb 2015)

This looks like an interesting jig, I've been planning to build the Wandel gear box joint jig, this one might be just as good, simpler to make it looks like and I am not sure I would need the use of gear ratios. 

OTOH Wandels plans are in metric (and have videos to help you build it), the ones the author linked are in inches and I looked over them and all those fractions are so hard to read its like ancient egyptian, I got a headache just looking at it. 

A good thing about sketchup is I can convert it to metric there so I'm sending a PM.


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## Graham Orm (19 Feb 2015)

DennisCA":z8ky8dtm said:


> This looks like an interesting jig, I've been planning to build the Wandel gear box joint jig, this one might be just as good, simpler to make it looks like and I am not sure I would need the use of gear ratios.
> 
> OTOH Wandels plans are in metric (and have videos to help you build it), the ones the author linked are in inches and I looked over them and all those fractions are so hard to read its like ancient egyptian, I got a headache just looking at it.
> 
> A good thing about sketchup is I can convert it to metric there so I'm sending a PM.



Plans just sent Dennis, in Metric.


*Note to others, the plans are metric by default, but are changed to imperial at the press of a button so let me know if you're a masochist and prefer to struggle with fractions.
*


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## DennisCA (19 Feb 2015)

Yeah I noticed everything was in mm, that's great, makes this a lot easier!


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## Paul Dye (19 Feb 2015)

Would love a copy but too new to pm


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## Graham Orm (19 Feb 2015)

Paul Dye":3ip0vpzv said:


> Would love a copy but too new to pm



You'll have to wait until you've got a few posts up, or post your email on the open forum Paul.


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## Paul Dye (19 Feb 2015)

No probs

pauldye11 @ gmail. com

No spaces, system wouldn't let me enter it correctly

Appreciate the time you have put in


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## Graham Orm (19 Feb 2015)

Paul Dye":2qksu2yz said:


> No probs
> 
> pauldye11 @ gmail. com
> 
> ...



Done Paul. Let me know if it doesn't get there.


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## Paul Dye (19 Feb 2015)

Got it

Thanks again


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## Graham Orm (20 Feb 2015)

Instead of pressing a nut into the carriage block these are much better, and handy for other stuff too. I have a 2 in my router table top to take the clamp bolts on the fence.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-PACK-M8-x- ... 4ae1891966


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## DennisCA (2 Mar 2015)

I've been looking at this a bit closer now that I feeling a little less dead and I want to try and build the jig soon. I am wondering though, the original plans calls for 12mm plywood base while this one uses 18mm, any reason for the change of base thickness?

I'll probably use 12mm for the base and 18mm for the rest.

Another thing to consider is the thread pitch and the size of the blade you have. You should want the pitch to be even fractions of the blade kerf, so you can move the whole width of the blade with a certain amount of turns. I looked up the width oh my general purpose blade, a CMT orange and it's specced as 3mm wide kerf, and then I looked at metric thread pitches and an M10 coarse thread is 1.5mm, so two turns should equal one blade width. That should make for simpler math.


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## Graham Orm (2 Mar 2015)

Hi Dennis. I sent a follow up email with some afterthoughts in it that covers both these issues, did you get it?

I drew the whole thing in 18mm so that if you didn't have a mixture of thickness's lying around you wouldn't have to buy several different sheets. 12 mm For the base will be fine. I doubt you will find a screw thread who's pitch coincides perfectly with your blade thickness. If one turn takes you beyond the edge of the blade and leaves a tooth behind you can either go back and get it freehand or put a second flat on the wheel so that it stops at the right point mid revolution.


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## DennisCA (2 Mar 2015)

I'm afraid I only got the one mail myself. 

As for the screw, as I mentioned a threaded rod made to the M10 standard should work perfectly with a 3mm kerf blade.


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## Graham Orm (2 Mar 2015)

Yes, lets see if it does, keep us informed. I'll forward the second email to you, there are a few valid changes you need to make note of.

EDIT: Sent.


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## DennisCA (2 Mar 2015)

OK I got it now, you recommend making it wider you say, I had thought you had used the PDF released by the author to make these plans (but in metric) so I figured they'd be near replicas of his design. 

Was there a reason you made it smaller? Or did you draw it by eye without the plans and those are the reasons for the differences?


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## Graham Orm (2 Mar 2015)

I only have a Dewalt trade table saw and measured the width of the runners on that then added some. Most of the measurements on the drawing are discretionary. I drew it from scratch. The PDF design on the site seemed very complicated.


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## DennisCA (2 Mar 2015)

I'll probably look at both when making this as I want it big, I have a big table saw (bigger than the authors I'd say) and I want a large capacity.


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## PeterBassett (3 Mar 2015)

If I could have a copy please that would be marvellous.


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## Graham Orm (3 Mar 2015)

PeterBassett":37nx7obf said:


> If I could have a copy please that would be marvellous.



No prob Peter can you PM me your email please?


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## Eric The Viking (4 Mar 2015)

Neat idea.

Suggestion: assuming 10mm studding, you might glue a hex nut on, instead of the wooden cam. It would need a metal dog to index against, but that gives you increments of 0.25mm. You'd have to count carefully though 

It ought to give cleaner results than a router table though, as it has a zero clearance fence and won't tend to tearout on one side, nor pull skewed as the router equivalents do. Given there's no sideways pull, is the clamp overkill - wouldn't a sideways stop do instead, or is it for safety?


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## eatthis (4 Mar 2015)

Id love a set too please


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## Graham Orm (4 Mar 2015)

eatthis":2j2g6enl said:


> Id love a set too please



PM me your email address pls. EDIT Already got it, plans on the way ;-)


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## Graham Orm (4 Mar 2015)

Eric The Viking":2zjbirgl said:


> Neat idea.
> 
> Suggestion: assuming 10mm studding, you might glue a hex nut on, instead of the wooden cam. It would need a metal dog to index against, but that gives you increments of 0.25mm. You'd have to count carefully though
> 
> It ought to give cleaner results than a router table though, as it has a zero clearance fence and won't tend to tearout on one side, nor pull skewed as the router equivalents do. Given there's no sideways pull, is the clamp overkill - wouldn't a sideways stop do instead, or is it for safety?



You could manage without it, most do. I've drawn it as the video, I think I'd rather have the clamp on myself.


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## DennisCA (4 Mar 2015)

I've wondered if I should just make it a box like on Wandels jig and use a screw clamp to hold the pieces in. Then I'd also have a corner to shove the bits into which would double as a stop.


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## Graham Orm (4 Mar 2015)

DennisCA":3rz0iww8 said:


> I've wondered if I should just make it a box like on Wandels jig and use a screw clamp to hold the pieces in. Then I'd also have a corner to shove the bits into which would double as a stop.



I'd be interested to see developments


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## DennisCA (4 Mar 2015)

I've bought some threaded rod and nuts and I got enough plywood so I should have most things needed to complete this project, but it's an hectic time and none of us at home are still not 100% from this "supercold".


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## Graham Orm (4 Mar 2015)

DennisCA":y04s7gjw said:


> I've bought some threaded rod and nuts and I got enough plywood so I should have most things needed to complete this project, but it's an hectic time and none of us at home are still not 100% from this "supercold".



It's all about enjoying yourself Dennis, no rush. I'm half way through a couple of bedside cabinets that should have been finished and installed by now but for this flu. I'm sat here with 2 fleece's on coughing for England, I don't think it's ever going to let go!


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## eatthis (4 Mar 2015)

thanks for the plans fella. now i just need to work out what the hell it actually is and how to use it lol


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## Graham Orm (4 Mar 2015)

eatthis":2w0pft4a said:


> thanks for the plans fella. now i just need to work out what the hell it actually is and how to use it lol



Did you see the video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYxDXHGRRrk


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## eatthis (4 Mar 2015)

Graham Orm":hgjsda3e said:


> eatthis":hgjsda3e said:
> 
> 
> > thanks for the plans fella. now i just need to work out what the hell it actually is and how to use it lol
> ...



no i missed that ta il have a watch later


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## cleavages (9 Mar 2015)

Would it be possible to get a copy of the sketch up plans as well? I am new to box joints and this looks like an awesome way to cut them!!

The video makes it look very easy.

New to the board, so I cannot PM.

[email protected]


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## Graham Orm (9 Mar 2015)

cleavages":tugjqrv2 said:


> Would it be possible to get a copy of the sketch up plans as well? I am new to box joints and this looks like an awesome way to cut them!!
> 
> The video makes it look very easy.
> 
> ...



Email sent buddy.


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## cleavages (9 Mar 2015)

Graham Orm":29ch65ci said:


> cleavages":29ch65ci said:
> 
> 
> > Would it be possible to get a copy of the sketch up plans as well? I am new to box joints and this looks like an awesome way to cut them!!
> ...



Appreciate it Sir. Hopefully I can build it this weekend and try the hinged joint. I think it may work well for a dog door.


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## Graham Orm (9 Mar 2015)

cleavages":2e127mm2 said:


> Graham Orm":2e127mm2 said:
> 
> 
> > cleavages":2e127mm2 said:
> ...



Pictures please. :mrgreen:


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## DennisCA (10 Mar 2015)

Here's a status update on my jig build:
















The basic function is working now, turn the handle and it advances 1.5mm. I still need to make a handle, the runners, front fence and also the front carriage plate to keep the pieces in place, and a stop ofcourse. Base is 12mm birch plywood and the rest is a combo of 18mm and 12mm plywood and some pieces of birch. I'll cut the threaded rod to size later.


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## Graham Orm (10 Mar 2015)

Well that brought a big smile to my face Dennis!


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## Bigbud78 (11 Mar 2015)

Could I get a copy please


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## mseries (11 Mar 2015)

Thank you for sending a copy to me Graham, very clear.


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## Graham Orm (11 Mar 2015)

Email sent. Make sure you have a look at the video at the start of the thread.


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## Bigbud78 (15 Mar 2015)

Is M10 the best to use for this due to thread pitch ? I've got some M8 already :/


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## Ed Bray (15 Mar 2015)

Hi Graham,

I would be interested in a set of plans. PM on way.


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## Graham Orm (15 Mar 2015)

Bigbud78":2db7zp86 said:


> Is M10 the best to use for this due to thread pitch ? I've got some M8 already :/



I'm not sure that it's critical to be honest.


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## Bigbud78 (15 Mar 2015)

Graham Orm":sxcrj09p said:


> Bigbud78":sxcrj09p said:
> 
> 
> > Is M10 the best to use for this due to thread pitch ? I've got some M8 already :/
> ...



I'll try it with the M8 then, are you planning on using this with a TS or router table ? I want to start doing some box's and was planning on using the TS but would the router table be a better bet ? I was worried I'd get more break out on the router 

Jim


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## Graham Orm (15 Mar 2015)

Bigbud78":1f7mmzer said:


> Graham Orm":1f7mmzer said:
> 
> 
> > Bigbud78":1f7mmzer said:
> ...



Either is good. The router will cause tear-out front and back, so you'll need a sacrificial backer board either side of your work pieces back and front. The table saw will take longer to do the cuts but for my money will be better. 

If you go back a page in the thread Dennis says that M10 gives 1.5mm per turn so with the average saw blade 3mm thick that should be easy to manage. The other option is to put a second flat on the wheel directly opposite to the first. This will allow half turn increments.


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## Bigbud78 (15 Mar 2015)

The standard pitch on an M8 is 1.25mm which is why I thought the M10 would be better, might as well do it right first time  Will order the M10 bar


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## Graham Orm (16 Mar 2015)

Bigbud78":2cdpvwbx said:


> The standard pitch on an M8 is 1.25mm which is why I thought the M10 would be better, might as well do it right first time  Will order the M10 bar



You'll probably find some at B&Q :wink:


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## DennisCA (16 Mar 2015)

Threaded rods are easy to come by, just remember to buy enough nuts & washers for them, locking nuts might be a good idea too so you don't have to use two nuts to lock them in place.

I fitted runners and varnished the jig over the weekend but I was otherwise occupied with yard work, stapled some lumber amongst other things. Need to get some parts for the clamping portion and then it ought to be ready.


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## SammyQ (18 Mar 2015)

Graham, PM'ing shortly; I'd like a copy of the plans too please. 

Sam in soggy, foggy Belfast.


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## JanetsBears (19 Mar 2015)

For anyone who's not noticed, Graham has kindly provided a link to the plans from the youtube video that he mentioned in the first post of this thread :wink: 

Thanks Graham!

Chris


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## DennisCA (21 Mar 2015)

Put it together finally and did some test cuts but I got gappy joints, so it would seem that despite the 1.5mm pitch and 3mm blade things are out of spec enough. This can be avoided I think by removing the cam and using quarter and half turns, but that makes it kinda complicated. I believe I now see the advantage in Matthias Wandels gear driven jig, thanks to customizable gear ratios you can overcome the issue of thread pitch having to equal very precisely an even fraction of the blade kerf.

I'll continue working on this jig and see if another blade would work, I think this has some wobble to it and that might be the culprit.


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## Graham Orm (21 Mar 2015)

DennisCA":2h99dxwk said:


> Put it together finally and did some test cuts but I got gappy joints, so it would seem that despite the 1.5mm pitch and 3mm blade things are out of spec enough. This can be avoided I think by removing the cam and using quarter and half turns, but that makes it kinda complicated. I believe I now see the advantage in Matthias Wandels gear driven jig, thanks to customizable gear ratios you can overcome the issue of thread pitch having to equal very precisely an even fraction of the blade kerf.
> 
> I'll continue working on this jig and see if another blade would work, I think this has some wobble to it and that might be the culprit.



Idea. Set the work-piece against the blade with the spindle locked in position on the flat spot of the cam. Mark the position of the blade on the work piece, turn the spindle until the work piece has moved by one blade thickness, then mark the cam wheel and create a small flat where your mark is. A bit trial and error but it will probably work.


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## Graham Orm (6 Apr 2015)

wood-love":2y0hijbj said:


> I should be grateful for plans for Jig please.
> mrmadders @ hotmail. com
> thank you
> rob



Sent Rob. Let me know if you don't get it.


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## kinsella (7 Apr 2015)

How's everybody getting on with their build?. Dennis, any more photos?

This is where I am. Just need to do the clamp face to the sliding carriage and I'm ready to start. I'm curious, what threaded rod has everyone gone for? I'm using a standard M10, which I think has a pitch of 1.5mm. I will measure it shortly. I have a nice fine tooth blade which is around 2.8mm but with a pass back and fourth will be circa 3mm when it makes its cut. ie two turns of the handle. Well that's the theory. Time will tell when I get it working.


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## DennisCA (8 Apr 2015)

kinsella":3l6qkpld said:


> How's everybody getting on with their build?. Dennis, any more photos?



Sadly no more photos, after fiddling with the cam and trying multiple stops on it, it just wasnt working. I also thought it was too small to be able to handle work pieces of the sizes I wanted so the jig has been disassembled and the pieces saved for use elsewhere. 

Building Matthias Wandels box joint jig now instead.


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## Graham Orm (8 Apr 2015)

looking good Kinsella.

That's a shame Dennis. I think it's all down to matching the spindle thrad with the thickness of your blade. Good luck with the Matthias version.


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## defsdoor (8 Apr 2015)

I'm toying with the idea of rigging a stepper motor up to the threaded rod and having a simple bit of software running on an Arduino or Raspberry Pi that you just punch in your blade width, piece width, required joint size etc.. and then hit a single button in between passes and it auto winds on (or even auto-detect passes). Should give more precise partial turn options.

Of course first I need to knock down my old brick shed, get some tree stumps removed and some foundations down for a new workshop. My table saw is in the garage at the moment and I can't really use it.


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## kinsella (8 Apr 2015)

Defs
That sounds very technical. Why do I have a vision of wallace and gromit about your description. 

See today's progress. I haven't added a stop yet but was eager to play with it so did a very quick and dirty pass on some waste wood. Its looking good. But you can see that my blade and threaded rod match.


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## Graham Orm (8 Apr 2015)

Superb! Is that 10mm rod and 3mm blade?


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## kinsella (8 Apr 2015)

sort of. Its an M10 rod and a blade that's a smigen under 3mm (2.8mm), but with the play in the sled i can make it 3mm. As you can see from the test piece, I've got it working there or there abouts. Now need to do the stop and the cam stop to let me know when i have a full rotation. That's tomorrow. On hols for two weeks, its my birthday week and spending it in the shed between family bits. I'm in heaven!!!


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## Michelle_K (17 Jul 2015)

May I have a set of the plans please. Thank you.


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## Sorethumb (18 Jul 2015)

I'd be very obliged to get a set of plans too please.


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## Graham Orm (19 Jul 2015)

Michelle_K":24no8ih7 said:


> May I have a set of the plans please. Thank you.



Hi,only just spotted this. I need an email address.


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## Graham Orm (19 Jul 2015)

Sorethumb":2vru827m said:


> I'd be very obliged to get a set of plans too please.


Hi,only just spotted this. I need an email address.


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