# Unknown Lathe. Any Idea's ???



## Timsk (26 Jun 2009)

Hi I've just joined this forum hoping to improve my skills in turning after being given an old Lathe to play with while I recover from a pretty serious Brain Operation. 
The Lathe has no name on it but it must be from the 50's or 60's at least pre 77 as the motor has the old wiring system colours. The motor is a large Hoover motor made in Cambuslang Scotland but that is the only plate with writing on it anywhere. It has a 12 " swing (UK) i.e. 6 " centre to bed and about 3 ' max length to tailstock. It came with no tools nor chuck or faceplate. I have done a little turning on it but now wish to proceed to making a few bowls and end caps for things. I also fancied a tailstock chuck so I could drill holes from that side. Because I have no idea what the lathe is I have had trouble finding the right faceplate and chuck plus I definitely do not want to be spending a lot of money on a jaw lathe chuck without knowing it will fit. I did bite the bullet more in hope than expectation and made a best guess after measuring the width of the screw fitting on the headstock & got a 4" cheap record faceplate of 1" screw diameter 8tpi thread but this screws on to the first few threads then sticks. I obviously didn't want to force it any further so I assume its the wrong size. I also paid a few quid for a 2 MT tailstock chuck but it was too big so this has taught me the bore is either 1 MT or 0 MT.
Anyway I have pictures of the lathe & wonder if anyone could identify it or give me some clues as to how to make sure I buy the correct additions so I can try new things with the Lathe. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help


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## jammie*dodger (26 Jun 2009)

As you are too new your pictures have been caught by the spam filter. Here you go;











No idea what lathe it is though. Sorry, Rob.[/img]


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## Timsk (26 Jun 2009)

Thanks for posting. As you can see it has a grinding wheel at the end and a hammerited dust cover over the motor and turning wheels. What you cannot see from the pictures is it has a rubber belt drive with 3 pullys to change speed. I've just been running it a one speed as I have no idea how it adjusts to change runner from one to another. I can't see any adjustment mechanism on it.


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## John. B (26 Jun 2009)

Welcome to the forum Timsk,
Could do with more pics for guess work on the make, but belt changing,
check to see if the motor hinges up , (may have a lock nut) if it does 
it's a matter of loosening the locknut pulling the motor up moving the belt onto another pullywheel, lower the motor, tighten the locknut.

NB. The belt should run parallel to the wheels on both shafts.

John. B


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## cornucopia (26 Jun 2009)

hello and welcome


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## Bodrighy (26 Jun 2009)

Might be worth sending some pictures to Tony Griffiths here He's got a huge archive of different lathes and may be able to help. 

Pete


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## CHJ (26 Jun 2009)

Welcome to the forum *Timsk*, don't have a clue on lathe origins but if it spins wood then it will get you going long enough to decide how far down the addictive slope of turning you want to go, if your lucky, most of us just fall over the edge and keep on slipping. :lol: 

The grinding wheel outboard is a bit of a no go really, it looks to be an unsuitable grit type for your turning tools and more importantly does not appear to have any form of tool support which would make it almost impossible to grind tools correctly, the lack of guarding could lead to personal injury.

On the subject of Morse Tapers see this diagramfor dimensions.


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## cornucopia (26 Jun 2009)

I forgot to say - if you get the axminister catalouge theres a chart in there which tells you how to measure the thread on your lathe so you can order the right chuck etc


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## CHJ (26 Jun 2009)

Or if you don't have a copy or can't wait then there is an earlier copy HERE with a couple of standards they don't cover now.


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## Timsk (26 Jun 2009)

Thanks for the replies everyone please keep them coming if you have anything to add. I understand about the grinding stone, wasn't sure if it would affect the balance by removing it tho. I've started to add a few safety features anyway to the lathe like a quick push stop button in line to the power lead and placed in the old fuse box position on the left. Makes for easier and safer switching on and off while I'm an amateur and need to check everything every five seconds....


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## cornucopia (26 Jun 2009)

Traditinally if the outboard wasnt or couldint be used you would turn a wooden wheel to help thread faceplates and chucks etc on and of, you dont see them very often now its normally a metal one instead which are somtimes too small :roll:


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## Paul.J (26 Jun 2009)

HelloTimsk and welcome


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## Timsk (26 Jun 2009)

could you explain more about the wooden wheel, for curiosities sake. Have you seen any pictures on the internet which show this so I can get a clearer idea of what you mean. In the book I'm using for reference mostly " The Woodturners Bible by Percy Blandford" it does mention something about this but I can't remember if there was much info. thanks


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## Doug B (26 Jun 2009)

Hi Timsk & welcome.

I can`t help you with identifying your lathe, but wondered if you knew about the Erewash valley woodturning club http://www.evwa.org.uk/

It`s a monthly held club just south of Moorgreen going towards Kimberley, i & a few other forum folk are members of this club & would welcome you into the ranks. It`s a friendly club & a very good way to learn, as i have found out myself.

If you want any info feel free to PM me, i can`t be that far from you.


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## cornucopia (26 Jun 2009)

Timsk":16l201t1 said:


> could you explain more about the wooden wheel, for curiosities sake. Have you seen any pictures on the internet which show this so I can get a clearer idea of what you mean. In the book I'm using for reference mostly " The Woodturners Bible by Percy Blandford" it does mention something about this but I can't remember if there was much info. thanks



I cant find any pictures of wooden ones (maybe one of the members on here might have one) but heres a link to a metal one


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## Soulfly (26 Jun 2009)

I would say it is from the early 20th century, probably built in a local engineering company for pattern making. It would be interesting to see the bearing, shaft and pulley arrangement. Lots of lathes were made by small back street metal fabricators before they were mass produced and don't have any names on them. I still have an old antique lathe that had a 3 phase motor fitted later in its life that I started my woodworking career on some 35 years ago. Very interesting and hope you are able to trace the origins of your old lathe. Great solid bit of kit that runs rings around the toys on the market today.


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## dickm (26 Jun 2009)

From the look of it, I suspect that lathe was not factory,or even engineering shop, made. The support for the tailstock looks like some strong but rough welding from steel tube. Ditto the fabricated cover over the drive. Possibly made by a woodworker who knew what he wanted and had some metalworking kit and skill. So the headstock thread could be anything - might even be an "as found" shaft that already had a thread on the end!
But as others say, if it's solid and will spin wood, you can learn a lot with it before starting down the slippery slope of kit-buying.


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## Timsk (26 Jun 2009)

Here's a few more pic's which may show it in a little more detail without the cover on. The STOP button is my addition !
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3

With thanks to everyone for your input. It's looking more and more likely I'm going to have to get my imperial ruler out isn't it !


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## DaveL (27 Jun 2009)

I have edited your post to give clickable links to your pictures, I could not find a way of directly linking to them, needed to show them in line.

It does indeed look like it could be a home brew lathe, nothing wrong with that, just makes buy bits for it interesting. :shock: (I still have a grinder that I built along these lines and its now over 30 years old.)


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## Tony Spear (27 Jun 2009)

I too believe it is probably home made.

Back in the 50's (and possibly into the 60's) PICADOR (mentioned elsewhere in the forum as a manufacturer of pulleys) used to sell those trunnion mounted bearings, together with shafts and pulleys to fit so that people could make their own lathes and other machines.


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## dickm (27 Jun 2009)

Definitely home-made! Those Plummer blocks bolted to angle iron are a real giveaway. But none the worse for that.
Not sure if Picador did a ready made shaft as heavy as that, but it's quite possible. If it is a Picador, then any thread will definitely be imperial, and probably a standard Whitworth form.


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## Tony Spear (28 Jun 2009)

dickm":13avaust said:


> If it is a Picador, then any thread will definitely be imperial, and probably a standard Whitworth form.



That's what I thought but 1" Whit is 8tpi and so is the Record faceplate that won't go on!

UNLESS it's the thread angle which is different?

PS: I should have said Plummer block, not Trunnion, but it's been a long time.... :?


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## Timsk (28 Jun 2009)

I cleaned all the threads with a toothbrush to make sure it wasn't 'gunk' stopping the record face plate going on so I don't think it was that.
I've also used the guide in the axminster catalogue as suggested earlier to measure things and have the following results. Sorry I was born in the age of metric's so as it seems everything in lathe turning is in imperial my measurements may be a little confusing ! as I get confused sometimes talking in fractions !
But they are:
Register diameter 1" 1/64 or 27 mm
Register length 3mm
Thread diameter seemed 1" using callipers
Combined length of thread and register 25 mm
and Thread pitch 1/64th inch or 2.5mm

Any help is greatly appreciated. I hope my measurements are correct I did my best with callipers and an imperial ruler


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## Tony Spear (28 Jun 2009)

Timsk":2yyuqqnf said:


> I get confused sometimes talking in fractions !



I can see that! 2.5mm. is approximately 1/10th inch, so the 1/64th. would appear to be wrong.

Do you have a local Engineering workshop or know somebody who works in one? If so it is quite easy to establish what the thread on the shaft is by using a thread gauge.


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## Timsk (28 Jun 2009)

Yea was a bit dodgy on that thread width that's why I put it in mm as well. I think I will ring a friend that works for a CNC milling company see if he has a thread gauge to make sure I have the correct measurement. May be another matter for the company to allow him to take it home for the night though !
If as said 2.5 mm is 1/10 of an inch looks like I'm going to have difficulty finding a face plate. I've seen them at 1/8 tpi, 1/12 tpi and 1/16 tpi but non at 1/10th tpi. I have been hoping for it to be something like "Oh you need anything that fit's a Myford M8" or "You need anything that fits an Axminster" but C'est la vie it was never going to be that easy.


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## dickm (28 Jun 2009)

Well, according to my trusty Zeus chart, 1" by 10tpi is BSF (British Standarf Fine pitch, for you youngsters!). You could check this by asking your engineering pal if they have any inch BSF nuts lying around (they'll probably look at you a bit funny, but might have one lurking in someone's spares box  )
Not too difficult to weld a suitable nut onto a piece of steel plate to make a faceplate, but anything else will be a one-off special needing a metalworking lathe, I fear.


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## Timsk (28 Jun 2009)

I have arranged to drive over to see my mate tomorrow. Hopefully he may be able to clear this up for me. If do manage to get a fitting face plate sorted (sorry to sound stupid but remember I'm a newbie at this and have no engineering background) I should be able to get a jaw chuck to fit onto the faceplate as long as the faceplate has standard holes in it for one or other of the common types on sale ?


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## Timsk (29 Jun 2009)

Well just to keep anyone who's helped up to date. I've been over to my mate at his company and the specialist turner has had a look. No surprise this is not a standard thread for turning as people before have said "thanks dickm etc.." It looking more and more like something thats been knowcked together in the old mine workshops with bits found hanging around. The thread is 1 inch British Standard Pipe ! 11 tpi with a 55 degree insert...
I'm gonna nip back round later to see if they can do anything like re-tap it to something more standard.
Thanks everyone for the help you've given. It's been an adventure. I believe I can get untapped faceplate blanks so that may be the way to go on this one.


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## Tony Spear (29 Jun 2009)

This gets more interesting by the minute!

I'm really puzzled now - you measured the O/D of the thread at 1" but standard 1" gas pipe has an O/D of 1 11/32" (34mm.) 1" BSP thread is indeed 11 TPI but has a diameter at the top of the thread of 1.309" (33.25mm.), so how on earth did you manage to get a faceplate tapped 1" x 10 TPI (1" BSW) even part way on?

I know this is all a bit confusing, but understand that most threads are defined by the diameter of bar that they would be cut onto. In other words a 1" BSW thread is 1" dia. (near enough) at the top of the thread. 

Imperial (and U.S.) Standard pipes however are defined by the _*nominal bore*_ hence the dimensions given above.

A few more points:

If the information you obtained this morning is correct, it might be possible to get your Record face plate drilled and tapped to fit the thread on your lathe. It might not be a totally accurate fit, but could well be near enough.

If you are getting a faceplate made up or your existing one re-tapped, why not get your friend to make up a screw chuck at the same time - this will increase your turning options even further at very little cost.

If you get a faceplate drilled and tapped to suit - fine, but you may struggle finding a chuck. I know that there are several chucks that are available with interchangeable inserts in the back to fit different lathe threads and that some manufacturers offer (or used to offer) untapped inserts or even one off tappings for non-standard threads. This is probably the way to go 'cos once you're on that slippery slope you're eventually going to want to upgrade your lathe and at least you will still be able to keep your chuck just by buying a new insert.

You appear to have pronged drive centre, which you've been using for the turning you've done so far. Is this on a Morse taper?


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## Tony Spear (29 Jun 2009)

Tony Spear":3710uuq0 said:


> You appear to have pronged drive centre, which you've been using for the turning you've done so far. Is this on a Morse taper?



I've just had a closer look at your photographs and it appears that your pronged drive centre is indeed on a Morse taper, which implies that despite it having a pipe thread, the shaft or at least part of it, is solid. If so, can you get it turned down to 1" and get it threaded 1" x 8 TPI?

Alternatively of course, you could get somebody to make you an adaptor tapped 1" BSP female and stepped down to 1" x 8 TPI male. I know this increases the bearing overhang but those bearings look pretty substantial and should be OK for anything except very heavy work.

I realise that this is all a bit complicated, but I feel that you are far better off trying to get your lathe to accept standard fittings rather than getting fittings made or adapted to fit your lathe. If you do it this way at least any fittings you buy will fit any future lathes you may buy or if not, will be saleable to other turners with 1" x 8 TPI lathes.


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## Timsk (29 Jun 2009)

Cheers Tony. Yea the drive centre is MT1 (well I assume this as MT2 does not fit and it looks about 12mm across the hole when I measured. My friend is knocking me up a faceplate this week using 4 inch diameter steel rod they have. He offered but I'm hesitant to ask for much more what with the current climate in his industry. Who knows what the management would say him doing this for me ! I think asking them to make me an adapter with a MT in the end would be a little too cheeky.
Speaking to the lathe specialist he was a bit puzzled by the BSP thread & mentioned it should be longer or thicker (I don't remember which ?) & he did think of re-drilling the Record faceplate fitting a blank inside and tapping that. He said that would be a lot of work though that he didn't have time to do it. He also said the groves looked a little too wide to re cut directly and they would be too brittle afterwards.
Re-cutting the thread on the shaft was not mentioned. I think if he thought it was worth it he would have mentioned it.
I may mention the screw chuck after a few pints another day !
I have seen blank backing plates ready to be tapped somewhere on the internet as I was researching chuck prices. It may have only been for a quite expensive chuck though. I will have to look again, so I may have to search round for a BSP tap and die set ! as my mates place did not have one.
This Lathe is looking more and more like one of the old one off's made at one of the mines workshops there used to be lot's of in my area. They could knock anything up with scrap. Some very talented & ingenious craftsmen worked there.


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## Bodrighy (29 Jun 2009)

You can get adaptors for different threads and morse sizes so the possibility is valid and as said. If you can get the thread on the lathe to a common one it will make life a lot easier than adapting every chuck, faceplate etc that you get and believe me they will come. Comments about selling on are valid as well. 

Apart from all these teetghing problems it does look like a solid piece of kit you have there. 

pete


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## CHJ (29 Jun 2009)

Blank chuck backing plates are usually associated with engineering (metal cutting) lathes.

They are used when an odd or old standard thread match is required or in conjunction with metal lathe chucks to obtain maximum precision of fit.

The bore of the backing plate is machined to fit the lathe spindle thread and register, then mounted on the lathe spindle and the periphery and face machined in situ to give a precise fit in an engineering chuck rear register.

Most wood work lathe chucks do not have this type of rear mounting register (some higher end devices do) it's not impossible to have a backplate made to act as an adaptor between the none standard spindle and a suitable chuck but it would need great care in machining an fit between the two to get it aligned correctly, especially if the spindle does not have a true register collar.


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## dickm (29 Jun 2009)

If you can get that shaft off (it should drift out of the bearings with suitable pressure and support) there would probably be enough "meat" on the end to turn it down to 3/4inch, and then thread it 16tpi to take "standard" chucks etc. It's the sort of job someone from your local model engineering society might find an interesting challenge......
Certainly easier and cheaper than getting every accessory specially made


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## Tony Spear (30 Jun 2009)

Tim, 

how did your friend establish that this was a BSP thread? Did he use a thread gauge? Or did he just count the threads per inch and make assumption. Reason I ask is that you said:

"he was a bit puzzled by the BSP thread & mentioned it should be longer or thicker (I don't remember which ?) & he did think of re-drilling the Record faceplate fitting a blank inside and tapping that".

If he said it should be "thicker" i.e. larger diameter, that would explain the dimensional anomalies that I described before. If it was a genuine 1" BSP, I reckon you could drill & tap the Record faceplace without any sort of insert as drilling the faceplate bore right out would give you a clean bore of 1" and it should be dead easy to get a 1" BSP thread into that.

For this reason, I don't think it can actually be 1" BSP. Easy way to check is get a 1" BSP pipe coupler or any other female fitting from a local engineering supplier and see if that screws onto the shaft. If it was a genuine 1" BSP, turning it down to take a 1" x 8 TPI wouldn't be a problem. What hadn't ocurred to me before was turning it down to 3/4" x 16 TPI as Dick suggests. If the Morse taper is No. 1 there should be plenty of meat in the shaft to do this.

My suggestion of an adaptor doesn't require a Morse taper. What I meant was to get something made that you screw onto the end of the shaft when you want to use standard accessories, but you remove it when you want to use the morse taper. This could be made quite easily IF we can establish what the thread on the shaft really is.

As I said before (and Dick M and Bodrighy both seem to agree) I really think you should devote any money and favours to getting the lathe to accept standard accessories rather than getting specials made to fit the lathe. 

This all reminds me of what I used to go through back in my professional days. I used to work as an engineer in the water industry and spent years refubishing water treatment plants in various 3rd. World countries. In the 90's I did a load of plants in Nigeria, working from the U.K. on behalf of a Nigerian Contractor I did the engineering in the UK and travelled out there now and again for initial site surveys, progress visits and testing and commissioning the new and refurbished equipment. The work on site was carried out by the Client's local staff and I used to get telexes like "we need a new valve for the filter inlet. The pipe diameter is 150mm. nominal bore and the flanges have 4 holes". Try explaining at 4000 miles range to a young Nigerian engineer that there are at least a dozen different flanges that fit that description and that I need to know a lot more detail and I need to know the length of the valve if it is fitted between flanges!

_*BUT I managed in the end*_ and I'm sure that between us all we'll get you well up and running before too long!


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## Timsk (30 Jun 2009)

I realised what you meant with the morse tapper later that night ! I have sent a text to my friend asking if it would be possible to make the collar instead of the faceplate but not heard back from him yet. It does seem the most sensible and the easier thing to do if he can make a faceplate then surely it is as easy for him to take a piece of steel rod and make the collar instead with a thread 1 " 8 tpi to fit the record faceplate on the end so I could use that to fit a jaws chuck as well. 
When he measured the original thread he used digital callipers counted the threads and used small inserts to check the angle of the thread (sorry don't know what these are called). Not being an engineer everything else they said went over my head a bit I'm afraid. He checked everything against a laminated chart he had and his Zeus booklet. I think maybe he was also confused as to why a pipe thread was on a solid piece of metal and not on a pipe ! I'm awaiting a call back though to see what's occuring. Again thanks for all your valuable insights. I'm learning a lot !


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## Tony Spear (30 Jun 2009)

I'm still confused!

If your measuring was anything near accurate and the diameter over the threads is really only 1" it can't be 1" BSP as the root diameter (_*diameter at bottom of thread*_) for 1" BSP is 1.193 inches (30.3mm.) which is more than what you've measured the overall diameter at. I can't believe you could be 5mm out!

I think that the suggestion made by Dick M is probably the best i.e. get the shaft off, turn it down to 3/4" and get it screwed 3/4" x 16TPI. I realise that this means that your faceplate won't fit but maybe the supplier will exchange it. It will certainly ensure that anything you buy in the future is guaranteed to fit.

To establish what Morse taper you have, insert the drive into the taper. Mark the shank where it enters the taper (a little scratch won't hurt), then measure the diameter at the mark, compare to the Morse taper info that you've already been given and Bob's yer wotsit!


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## dickm (30 Jun 2009)

Can I suggest that making an adapter to fit on to your shaft is probably not a good idea. The problem is getting absolute concentricity and parallellism between the male and female threads. Sounds easy, and possibly with a big enough lathe, and good metalworking skills it is, but in practice, it's not that simple. DAMHIKT, but at the third attempt my adaptor to fit Bonham chuck to the Myford is still not 100% true  .
Cutting a standard thread on the end of your existing shaft eliminates at least half the problem, and would allow you full choice of accessories.


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## Timsk (30 Jun 2009)

I spoke to my friend today and asked him if he could re thread the shaft to 3/4 inch 16 tpi. He said that probably was the best Idea so I've left the shaft with him to see what he comes up with. Here's hoping he can do it. He said he would get back to me by the end of the week.
One thing I am thinking about is when I get the shaft back and I fit it all in the screw holes on the headstock is making sure it's aligned correctly with the tailstock again. Any tips ?


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## dickm (1 Jul 2009)

Shouldn't be a great problem, Timsk. Put a centre in the taper in the headstock shaft, same in the tailstock and bring them together point-to-point. Provided your tailstock slides true, and doesn't wobble from side to side between the rails, that should give you a start. But you'll still need to make sure the headstock shaft is parallel to the main lathe axis. Probably the best you can do is to make up some sort of long straight edge and place it parallel to the shaft, then make sure the straight edge is parallel to the bed. You can do that surprisingly accurately by eye. If there is a problem with vertical alignment of the centres, you will have to put shims under the plummer blocks, but, unless its out by a mm or so, I wouldn't worry too much initially.


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## Timsk (2 Jul 2009)

I am right to get my friend to turn the shaft to 3/4 inch 16 tpi standard whitworth arn't I ? He asked for more info than just 3/4 " 16 tpi...


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## Tony Spear (2 Jul 2009)

Timsk":1o1ljw8f said:


> I am right to get my friend to turn the shaft to 3/4 inch 16 tpi standard whitworth arn't I ? He asked for more info than just 3/4 " 16 tpi...



Good question! This did occur to me last night. 3/4" x 16 TPI is an unusual thread, other than for lathes. However, the important thing is the _*thread form*_, which for most imperial threads is 55 deg. with rounded top and bottom which is known as Whitworth form, however if your mate is cutting it on a lathe he will probably only be able to give you a "sharp edge" form, which might mean that you need to attack the O/D with a file after it's been cut.

Why not ask this guy, he should be able to give you the definitive answer.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/


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## CHJ (2 Jul 2009)

Timsk":1p2qf85b said:


> I am right to get my friend to turn the shaft to 3/4 inch 16 tpi standard whitworth arn't I ? He asked for more info than just 3/4 " 16 tpi...



Watch out, check a 16 TPI Chuck or faceplate check if it's UNF.

3/4" 16TPI is a UNF Standard and will have 60deg thread angle not 55 deg as in whitworth.

UNF/UNC Chart

3/4" whitworth is 10 TPI


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## Timsk (3 Jul 2009)

Cheers CHJ. They were going to re-thread the shaft next week for me ! Good job they didn't have time to do it straight away. I've just sent a text to update my friend on this.
I've confirmed what you've said on 
http://www.recordpower-thetoolshop.com/ ... NF_RH.html
Where it states UNF RH. Thanks for that. I didn't even think of looking on Chuck inserts to see if they had the correct info.

Again thanks. Could have been left having to re cut a whole new shaft. Ta !


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## Cign (4 Jul 2009)

Hi Timsk

Don't forget that there is more to a lathe spindle than just the thread. It is also important that the register, the straight bit of the spindle nose to the left of the thread, is the correct length and diameter. The shoulder should also be at 90 degrees to the spindle and the threaded portion needs to be the right length!


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## CHJ (4 Jul 2009)

The correct alignment shoulder dimensions are shown in My link (26/06) in case you missed it 
Edit: sorry Timsk. see you had already taken info. on board, missed your reference.

As Cign says, it is the shoulder spigot that controls the chuck alignment, not the thread.


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## Timsk (7 Jul 2009)

Well just as an update. I got the spindle back today, looks great turned down to 3/4 inch 16 tpi. I got another face plate and it fits perfectly. I'm now all ready to go, just need to re-attach and line -up. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to me getting this right and making my lathe much more versatile. Just on the lookout now for a jaws chuck to fit on the plate but I have lot's of things I can be making without one for the moment. Cheer's y'll.


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## gandy (7 Jul 2009)

glad its sorted  if its any help axminster sell a little chuck set with 4 different jaws and a screw. and for the price (£80) its a pretty desent set to get you going, i know, i have one, and its done everything ive wanted it from it, it has its limits like most things but you can do spindle turning in different sizes, and i can hold bowls well.


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## Timsk (7 Jul 2009)

thanks for that gandy will check it out.


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## CHJ (7 Jul 2009)

Timsk":2u2a1ru0 said:


> ...... Just on the lookout now for a jaws chuck to fit on the plate ......



Timsk, you should not have to mount a chuck on a adaptor (face) plate like on a metal working lathe.

Woodworking Chucks are available with the correct thread to fit your machined spindle directly.


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