# HELP TO MAKE SOMETHING PLEASE



## Alexam (15 Aug 2014)

I'm looking for someone in my location, that could make a small, steel unit to fit on a machine for me . It would be about 3" x 4" x 3/4", with holes etc.

This is not my thing at all and if there is someone nearby that's a hobbyist in metalwork/engineering , that would be good.

I'm South of Birmingham B47 area

Thanks

Alex


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## Spindle (15 Aug 2014)

Hi

Try searching the likes of Farnell Components or RS Components - they supply all manner of boxes for housing electronic projects etc.

Regards Mick


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## Alexam (15 Aug 2014)

Thanks Mick, but not looking for that, or anything for electrical bits. What I need is someone to make/cut a solid steel part with holes and screws to fit onto a machine.

Alex


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## Alexam (15 Aug 2014)

OK, if nobody in the forum is interested, can anyone point me in the direction of an engineering shop near my area that could machine a small one off metal unit for me please.

Alex


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## marcros (15 Aug 2014)

What are you actually wanting? A solid steel part with screws and holes is not much to go on- can you sketch it? How accurate does it need to be?


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## Spindle (15 Aug 2014)

Hi

If you look here:

http://www.m-machine-metals.co.uk/metals_cs_flats.html

You can buy 3/4" x 3" section by the inch.

Would this fit the bill - can you drill it yourself?

Regards Mick


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## Alexam (15 Aug 2014)

Thanks for the thought Mick, but this requires also the fitting of a bearing wheel and the unit needs to be solid with hex bolts and will be under pressure when in use.

I appreciate you commenting though and if they were local to me I would be round there to discuss.. Wish others would respond.

Alex


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## pcb1962 (15 Aug 2014)

Alexam":3t80nlib said:


> Wish others would respond.
> Alex



I think you need to show us a drawing if you want any more response. A "a solid steel part with holes and screws" is not much to go on.
You might also find a bigger audience if you post on the forum at http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/ I think it's mostly woodworkers here.


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## Spindle (15 Aug 2014)

Hi

Agreed - you need to give us more of an idea of what you want - my psychic powers are exhausted  

Getting a 'one off' made is always challenging

Regards Mick


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## Alexam (15 Aug 2014)

Sorry guys, You're right, I'll work something out. I wanted someone local so that I could go and explain, or better still get them to come over and see the job. 

Alex


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## dickm (15 Aug 2014)

While Brummagem is no longer the workshop of the world, there must still be a few small engineering shops or even blacksmiths in your area. Try Yellow pages?


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## seaco (18 Aug 2014)

Hi Alex

If you could get some drawings sorted of what you want I may be able to make it but I'm in Somerset...


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## Alexam (18 Aug 2014)

Thanks for the offer Lee, but my son has today come up with one of his friends who is into engineering and I'm awaiting a call. He lives locally.


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## ardenwoodcraft (6 Sep 2014)

Hi, 

Have you thought about Redditch?

Lots of small one-man-band type metalworking places over here.


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## Chris123 (8 Sep 2014)

Do you have a drawing of the part, even something rough?


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## Alexam (11 Sep 2014)

Decided to see if just a grooved bearing ( grooved as in a center slot of 1/32" bepth in the centre of the wheel bearing) could be fitted in place of one of the bearing guides. That may work. Any ideas on who I may be able to chat to locally - West Midlands area?

Alex


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## Wildman (14 Sep 2014)

we are not psychic mate a sketch as previously suggested would help, what is it fit, what does it do etc. I have engineering facilities and can make almost anything but need a drawing.


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## Alexam (18 Sep 2014)

Hi Wildman,
The idea now would be to replace the upper left blade guide with a bearing that runs vertically and can keep a 1/4" or 1/8" blade in position, under tension. The bearing needs to have a slot that the blade can sit in and will be to only part keeping the blade in position. The idea being tha the blade can twist without moving from the verticle. The blade is tensioned by about 1/8" from verticle to sit in the bearing slot. The top and bottom guides and rear bearings will be moved out of the way and will not be near the blade when running.

The attached photo is of the guide block (Recor BS400) with the rear thrust bearing (on the right) removed.
This shows the guard block supported by the shaft on the top left with the blade to the right of that. 
Hope this helps you understand the problem.


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## Random Orbital Bob (18 Sep 2014)

That's your BS400 isn't it?

Here's a home made idea that may just work. Buy the bearing at the right size you want (I get them online from these guys since they cost about £2 when RP wanted £18 for the exact same bearing)

Make a little faced off backing board that has a spigot and sits in your chuck jaws. Screw the bearing, dead centred to this backing board with a washer holding it firmly in place and then with the lathe running carefully use a pointed HSS tool to score the groove you need in the wheel of the bearing.

If the surface of the bearing is too hard, try a carbide drill bit that you either hold with pliers of better yet mount into a home made handle


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## Alexam (18 Sep 2014)

Thanks for the input Bob.

I don't have a lathe so could not do this. However, I had thought of asking the bearing manufacturer to cut the groove for me, but need something to hold it in place on the bandsaw. The BS400 guides would hardly just hold it sufficiently and that's why I thought of something to replace one of the guides. ??


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## Wildman (22 Sep 2014)

ok see the problem I have made a few of these for dewalt saws and the bearing is fitted FLAT so the blade runs on the surface behind the blade. another pair of bearings on a cam for adjustment of blade width is fitted below it so three bearings in total. That prevents any blade twist. and works for me.
A single bearing on the end of a spindle fitted in the vacant hole could sort it as the rest can be moved back for a narrow blade.


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## Alexam (22 Sep 2014)

Thanks. That DeWalt job sounds like the latest blade guides rather than the older block ones, with a thrust bearing at the back. 

The vacant hole is where the thrust bearing usually sits and I removed it for the photograph. The other 'hole' on the left holds the whole upper guides and my thinking was that if all guides were removed, the left hole could house a spindle with an offset to be directly behind the blade. There would need to be enough adjustment to ensure the groved bearing could be centered and moved forward by 1/8" to 1/4" to tension the blade sufficiently to ensure it does not pop out easily when the blade is 'cornering'. This would only be for blades of 1/4" to 1/8", so the grove depth needs to be shallow enough not to damage the teeth of the blade.

Also the distance from the blad to the block holding the spindle (hole 15mm) is shown here.








Is this something you may be able to do?

Alex


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