# Anybody able to cast aluminium?



## NickDReed (24 May 2022)

Hi all, I'm hoping there may be someone able to help me.

I had an interesting day on the garage on Sunday. While passing a piece of oak through the thicknesser I noticed the aluminium casting on one side that holds the bearing was broken. Obviously I turned the machine off instantly. After undoing a few bits it was clear that it was utterly fornicated.

I've been in contact with axminster who have rather concerningly told me the cannot provide a spare part. I'm querying this, because my understanding is the CCNPT is a very generic model. 


However, when faced with the very real possibility I might need to fork out several hundreds of pounds if not thousands, I thought I'd see if any folks on here a able to cast such a piece in their workshops? I would require 2 as the other side has a fine crack in it too. 

I know it's a long shot, but thought it might be worth a punt. 

All the best

Nick


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## Jameshow (24 May 2022)

My question would be, why would you cast it? 

Casting is a cheap way of producing parts. Which then have limited strength. 

Better to find someone to machine it for you from a billet of aluminium. Try your local model engineers club or some on here might be able too. 

It could be done commercially but would be quite expensive.


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## Lorenzl (24 May 2022)

You could get a pair machined and it would be cheaper if it could be simplified.

I guess at least £180 each to machine. If you have it cast it would still need some machining. Although the simpler you can get the design the cheaper it should be.


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## Peri (24 May 2022)

Are they both the same, are you in a rush, could you provide drawings?

It looks like something I could do at work, but it would have to be in my free time.

(I have access to a cnc mill & lathe)


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## Torx (24 May 2022)

Can you take a photo of the area the bearing mounts came from, with the good one loosely in position?

Just wondering if something off the shelf like a pillow block could be encouraged to fit.


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## NickDReed (24 May 2022)

Jameshow said:


> My question would be, why would you cast it?
> 
> Casting is a cheap way of producing parts. Which then have limited strength.
> 
> ...


I had assumed that this was how it was originally made.


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## NickDReed (24 May 2022)

Torx said:


> Can you take a photo of the area the bearing mounts came from, with the good one loosely in position?
> 
> Just wondering if something off the shelf like a pillow block could be encouraged to fit.







I've been contemplating some steel tube wit 40mm id and the welding a plate to it in order to bolt it in place. Drill a hole through the plate to allow the shaft through.


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## NickDReed (24 May 2022)

Peri said:


> Are they both the same, are you in a rush, could you provide drawings?
> 
> It looks like something I could do at work, but it would have to be in my free time.
> 
> (I have access to a cnc mill & lathe)


Hi, both are the same yes. 

Are we talking scale drawings etc? I'm more a scribble on a bit of scrap but I could have a go? 

Thanks for the offer


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## Lorenzl (24 May 2022)

NickDReed said:


> I had assumed that this was how it was originally made.


It looks like a die casting which tends to have large grains and that is where it cracks. Making the die is quite expensive but cheaper to make the parts as they use less metal, are a better finish and are a good size. You can get away with minimal or no machining.
They might even be made of zinc.


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## Torx (24 May 2022)

NickDReed said:


> View attachment 136381
> 
> 
> I've been contemplating some steel tube wit 40mm id and the welding a plate to it in order to bolt it in place. Drill a hole through the plate to allow the shaft through.


I think your idea would work as well as anything. I’d get undersize tube or start with a bar and get it turned to allow the bearing to be pressed in.


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## Peri (24 May 2022)

NickDReed said:


> Hi, both are the same yes.
> 
> Are we talking scale drawings etc? I'm more a scribble on a bit of scrap but I could have a go?
> 
> Thanks for the offer


As long as it's got the needed dimensions - (in metric please  ) - I can model it in CAD first and make my own drawings for machining.

Edit - Probably wouldn't be any more difficult to make them out of steel if you'd prefer that.


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## NickDReed (25 May 2022)

Peri said:


> As long as it's got the needed dimensions - (in metric please  ) - I can model it in CAD first and make my own drawings for machining.
> 
> Edit - Probably wouldn't be any more difficult to make them out of steel if you'd prefer that.


Really kind of you thanks. 

I may get back to you shortly about it. Going to explore a couple of other options initially, bit if I have no luck would you be happy for me to contact you directly on here? 

Regards 

Nick


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## Sideways (25 May 2022)

That casting is way more complex than it needs to be.
Better made from billet as said.
Mill a square block to size, bore out for the bearing and spindle, bore 4 holes for the fixing bolts , make the flange part on top as a separate plate, drill tap and bolt on. It's just a dust shield.
It's still a solid half days work (?) for a machinist with all the measuring and setup. A day+ for an amateur with the tools.
You should expect to pay £300 to have a pair made but they will be better than the originals.
It won't be any better than your ability to measure it, so if you can't, better to give the parts to the person making it so that they can do that properly.
Tell them the part numbers of the bearings too - those are precision ground so the part number can be looked up to confirm the exact dimensions required for the bearing recess which needs to be a very accurate fit. A not too many microns undersize and you'll never get the bearing in, too big and it'll be useless.


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## Old.bodger (25 May 2022)

There seems to be an ‘O’ ring in there. Function not clear!


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## cerro (25 May 2022)

I hate monkey metal as much as I hate plastic. It would be easy to make one on a milling machine made with mild steel or brass, a friend maybe has one.


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## Lorenzl (25 May 2022)

Sideways said:


> That casting is way more complex than it needs to be.


Easier to make with less metal used.


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## peter spratt (25 May 2022)

i think its probably better to look for a secondhand planer thicknesser to either take off the spares or simply use as is


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## peter spratt (25 May 2022)

whereabouts are you, I live in kent and I have a fairly new 13" planer thicknesser you could bring your plank over and use here as a temp measure. and there is a shop in Essex that repairs and sells used machinery. [email protected]


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## rafezetter (25 May 2022)

Sideways said:


> That casting is way more complex than it needs to be.
> Better made from billet as said.
> Mill a square block to size, bore out for the bearing and spindle, bore 4 holes for the fixing bolts , make the flange part on top as a separate plate, drill tap and bolt on. It's just a dust shield.
> It's still a solid half days work (?) for a machinist with all the measuring and setup. A day+ for an amateur with the tools.
> ...


 dont forget the internal groove for the rubber o ring...


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## MorrisWoodman12 (25 May 2022)

The function of that o-ring is interesting. I thought at first glance it was a circlip to retain the bearing sideways into the precision housing. At a second look it appears to be halfway along said bearing. As @Sideways said a bearing should have a precise housing so why an o-ring in that position. The thought that comes to my mind is that a cheapo diecast casting is not going to be that precise so rather than the cost of machining it they fit an o-ring to hold the bearing in place. Mind you I'm not a mechy so your guess is probably better than mine.


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## Sideways (25 May 2022)

My guess is with yours Morris.
If this were a cast iron Sedgwick or better, one bearing would be standard type and the other self aligning. Maybe this has two standard bearings and the O rings just accommodate all the alignment errors inherent in the castings and pressed steel chassis.


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## niall Y (25 May 2022)

Those parts look suspiciously like the ones on my Elektra- Beckum , the details at the top are identical, whether the holes are the same is another matter. Metabo, do quite a good range of spares that still fit the older models. They have changed a bit over the years, but its surprising how many parts are still the same. Your planer looks to be one of the clones of the original. Bearing this in mind ,it might be worth checking out their spares catalogue on line.
............just been checking You tube, and there is a German guy replacing the bearings on his HC260 M planer, and the parts look identical - including the rubber ring.
Best of luck Niall


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## Inspector (25 May 2022)

I'd send Peri the bearing and housing to model up and cnc some for you, possibly extras in case others pop up with the same issue. You know people with the machine are going to look theirs over and find the same problem.

Would one of the type of square flanges sets fit?


https://www.bearingscanada.com/2-UCF210-32-Square-Flanged-Cast-Housing-Mounted-p/Kit11952.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7oq2wP_69wIVYRTUAR0BGQ3CEAYYBSABEgKU9vD_BwE



Pete


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## KingAether (25 May 2022)

NickDReed said:


> I've been contemplating some steel tube wit 40mm id and the welding a plate to it in order to bolt it in place. Drill a hole through the plate to allow the shaft through.


If its just 40mm, personally, i'd get some 12mm mild steel, spend £20 on a tungsten carbide 40mm core bit. Drill the hole on a pillar drill, line it up on the machine to mark the screw holes and drill and tap them.. would cost £30 at most if you dont have the bit or the tap. Can't harm to try given the cheapest option otherwise is probably find a for parts machine


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## NickDReed (25 May 2022)

KingAether said:


> If its just 40mm, personally, i'd get some 12mm mild steel, spend £20 on a tungsten carbide 40mm core bit. Drill the hole on a pillar drill, line it up on the machine to mark the screw holes and drill and tap them.. would cost £30 at most if you dont have the bit or the tap. Can't harm to try given the cheapest option otherwise is probably find a for parts machine


This is what I love! Simple solutions!


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## NickDReed (25 May 2022)

Thanks all for your advice and input. I have a fee ideas I'm going to look into and also might take Steve @Peri up on his very kind offer should I fail in my endeavours. 

I shall post and update on the solution, or lack of. 

Now there is something for you all to look forward to. 

Regards 
Nick


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## Peri (25 May 2022)

If you just want something that looks like that, I'll get a few dimensions off you and I can have it in the post over the weekend


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## alan895 (25 May 2022)

Would this be a sufficient replacement for what you need (a little pricey but try making an offer)?









Elektra Beckum HC260 Rotor | eBay


Elektra Beckum HC260 Rotor - Ref: b51-36. Cash on Collection. All Credit/Debit Cards (by phone).



www.ebay.co.uk


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## Inspector (25 May 2022)

alan895 said:


> Would this be a sufficient replacement for what you need (a little pricey but try making an offer)?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Not really pricy when you consider there are all the spares that go with it. Blades, gibs and screws, pulley etc. The bearings may be good too. The real rub is how much to ship?

Pete


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## Dabop (26 May 2022)

I'd second the idea of checking out a pillow block bearing- huge range of sizes and looks like it would bolt straight up with the right measurements...


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## Jameshow (26 May 2022)

Inspector said:


> Not really pricy when you consider there are all the spares that go with it. Blades, gibs and screws, pulley etc. The bearings may be good too. The real rub is how much to ship?
> 
> Pete


£80 all in...


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## plum60 (26 May 2022)

rafezetter said:


> dont forget the internal groove for the rubber o ring...


It looks like a low pressure gravity die casting. To make a new one you need the die and permission from the owner. Either the company that commissioned the part paid for the die or the foundry had it made from their drawing and didn't sell them the die so the foundry own the die but the drawing for the part will be owned by the company that commissioned it I expect. The casting will need to be fettled, milled and drilled to spec from the drawing. This casting failed for a reason. Most casting for machines are heat treated to harden them, maybe this one wasn't or the machine subjected it to uneven pressure in use ... or there were hair line cracks in the casting caused by impurities in the aluminium. When ingot is melted impurities are drawn out to the top and the dross skimmed off. You are better off to either find the owner of the die or to buy another cheap same machine to remove and reuse that casting. I think finding another same machine that still has a working part is your best and cheapest option. If that also breaks its a stress issue to do with the balance of the machine or excessive heat.
Hi all, I'm hoping there may be someone able to help me.


NickDReed said:


> I had an interesting day on the garage on Sunday. While passing a piece of oak through the thicknesser I noticed the aluminium casting on one side that holds the bearing was broken. Obviously I turned the machine off instantly. After undoing a few bits it was clear that it was utterly fornicated.
> 
> I've been in contact with axminster who have rather concerningly told me the cannot provide a spare part. I'm querying this, because my understanding is the CCNPT is a very generic model.
> 
> ...


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## niall Y (26 May 2022)

A quick look at an exploded diagram of a Metabo HC260C. and it looks to be a CONROD BEARING SHELL , numbered on the diagram as 236. I note that these are available for just over a tenner. At this price maybe worth a punt?,


NickDReed said:


> Thanks all for your advice and input. I have a fee ideas I'm going to look into and also might take Steve @Peri up on his very kind offer should I fail in my endeavours.
> 
> I shall post and update on the solution, or lack of.
> 
> ...


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## NickDReed (2 Jun 2022)

Update:

I took Steve @Peri up on his very kind offer to assist me and on Tuesday two custom made mounting blocks for the bearings arrived, in which I then drilled bolt holes. 

The bearing went in with a little persuasion and heating the blocks in the oven first (Steve informs me he was advised this might work by a colleague) 

Last night I set about mounting it all.

And I'm so pleased to report that its worked! 





Your browser is not able to display this video.





So grateful to you all for your advice, and especially Steve who doesn't know me from Adam, but was willing to come to the aid of a total stranger and ask for nothing in return. My faith in humanity may be restored yet. 

Now, at what point do I mention to Steve the 4 tier pulley that needs replacing on the old Atlas 73 drill pressI collected last week?


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## Peri (2 Jun 2022)

If you can draw it, I'll take a look at it 

Extremely happy it worked out Nick, the extra time it took to make the gauge pin paid dividends.


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