# Cladding in larch or Cedar?



## kingcod (30 May 2011)

I'm pricing up cladding my workshop in either English Larch (possibly from Vasterns) or more locally available Spruce. I'd go for oak if I was loaded!

Pricewise there seems very little difference between the two.

Larch looks to be the more attractive wood than Spruce (visually and durability) - are there any down sides?


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## zb1 (1 Jun 2011)

European Larch is more durable than spruce (whitewood) but both could do with a treatment of some sorts. Oak is highly durable but we find that the ends of the boards very often split and they have a tendency to wind as they dry. Western Red is also very good but not as nice to look at IMHO and a quite a bit more cost. I'm going to assume your buying green, feather edge boards, when fitting make sure you give yourself enough of an overlap on each board, I'd recommend at least 50mm. Also take this into account when ordering, a 150mm board will only give you 100mm coverage max. Also over order as you'll find that some boards are mostly useless, either because of the amount of sapwood (not durable) or the board is wound to hell.

I used to use Vasterns for green oak when I was framing down South, they are a pretty friendly bunch and can be flexible on price, it's just a question of being cheeky enough to try it on. 

One more thing, don't forget to take into account how your going to get them home. They'll be in random lengths mostly over 3m so you may have to pay for Vasterns to drop them off which will of course be extra.

Good luck

ZB


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## kingcod (3 Jun 2011)

Vasterns are advising not to fit green larch cladding during the summer months  

I'm wondering if that kind of makes seasoned spruce or Western Red Cedar my only choice.

Or - would it be possible to protect larch cladding (plenty of plastic sheeting and an occassional soak down ?) to slow its drying out process .... has anyone experience of working with green timber in this way?


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